337 files changed, 25808 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/26311-0.txt b/26311-0.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9d258dd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-0.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,6397 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Choice Cookery, by Catherine Owen
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Choice Cookery
+
+Author: Catherine Owen
+
+Release Date: August 14, 2008 [EBook #26311]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHOICE COOKERY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber’s Note
+
+Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of changes is
+found at the end of the text. Inconsistency in spelling and hyphenation
+has been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled words is found at
+the end of the text.
+
+The following less common characters are used in this e-book. If they do
+not display properly, please change your font.
+
+Å’Å“  OE and oe ligatures
+“�  Open and close quotes
+’   Apostrophe
+†   Dagger
+☞   Right pointing hand
+
+
+
+
+
+                   CHOICE COOKERY
+
+
+
+                         BY
+
+                   CATHERINE OWEN
+                      AUTHOR OF
+  “TEN DOLLARS ENOUGH� “GENTLE BREAD-WINNERS� ETC.
+
+
+
+                      NEW YORK
+         HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE
+                        1889
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1889, by HARPER & BROTHERS.
+
+_All rights reserved._
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Choice cookery is not intended for households that have to study
+economy, except where economy is a relative term; where, perhaps, the
+housekeeper could easily spend a dollar for the materials of a luxury,
+but could not spare the four or five dollars a caterer would charge.
+
+Many families enjoy giving little dinners, or otherwise exercising
+hospitality, but are debarred from doing so by the fact that anything
+beyond the ordinary daily fare has to be ordered in, or an expensive
+extra cook engaged. And although we may regret that hospitality should
+ever be dependent on fine cooking, we have to take things as they are.
+It is not every hostess who loves simplicity that dares to practise it.
+
+It was to help the women who wish to know at a glance what is newest and
+best in modern cookery that these chapters were written for _Harper’s
+Bazar_, and are now gathered into a book. It is hoped by the writer that
+the copious details and simplification of different matters will enable
+those who have already achieved success in the plainer branches of
+cookery to venture further, and realize for themselves that it is only
+the “first step that costs.�
+
+I have to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mrs. Clarke, of the South
+Kensington School of Cookery, to Madame de Salis, and those epicurean
+friends who have cast their nets in foreign waters, and sent me the
+daintiest fish they caught.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+  CHAPTER               PAGE
+
+       I. INTRODUCTION                                               1
+      II. SAUCES                                                    11
+     III. WHITE SAUCES                                              23
+      IV. BROWN SAUCES                                              33
+       V. COLD SAUCES                                               42
+      VI. SOUPS                                                     51
+     VII. FISH ENTRÉES                                              61
+    VIII. VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING OYSTERS                           71
+      IX. VARIOUS CULINARY MATTERS                                  79
+       X. ENTRÉES                                                   86
+      XI. ENTRÉES OF MUTTON CUTLETS OR CHOPS                        98
+     XII. ON THE MANNER OF PREPARING CROQUETTES, CUTLETS,
+          KROMESKIES, RISSOLES, AND CIGARETTES                     107
+    XIII. PATTIES                                                  116
+     XIV. ENTRÉES                                                  125
+      XV. ENTRÉES--_continued_                                     134
+     XVI. ENTRÉES--_continued_                                     143
+    XVII. COLD ENTRÉES, OR CHAUDFROIDS                             153
+   XVIII. COLD ENTRÉES                                             162
+     XIX. GALANTINES, BALLOTINES, ETC.                             172
+      XX. HOW TO “FILLET.�--COLD GAME PIES                         181
+     XXI. GARNISHES                                                191
+    XXII. VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING VEGETABLES                       199
+   XXIII. JELLIES                                                  208
+    XXIV. JELLIES--_continued_                                     217
+     XXV. COLD SWEETS.--CREAMS                                     226
+    XXVI. CREAMS AND FROZEN PUDDINGS                               235
+   XXVII. ICED PUDDINGS                                            243
+  XXVIII. ICE-CREAMS AND WATER-ICES                                252
+    XXIX. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS                                     262
+     XXX. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS--_continued_                        271
+    XXXI. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS--_continued_                        281
+   XXXII. FINE CAKES AND SAUCES                                    291
+  XXXIII. SALADS AND CHEESE DISHES                                 300
+  INDEX                                                            309
+
+
+
+
+CHOICE COOKERY.
+
+
+I.
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+By choice cookery is meant exactly what the words imply. There will be
+no attempt to teach family or inexpensive cooking, those branches of
+domestic economy having been so excellently treated by capable hands
+already. It may be said _en passant_, however, that even choice cooking
+is not necessarily expensive. Many dishes cost little for the materials,
+but owe their daintiness and expensiveness to the care bestowed in
+cooking or to a fine sauce. For instance: cod, one of the cheapest of
+fish, and considered coarse food as usually served, becomes an
+epicurean dish when served with a fine Hollandaise or oyster sauce, and
+it will not even then be more expensive than any average-priced boiling
+fish. Flounder served as _sole Normande_ conjures up memories of the
+famous Philippe, whose fortune it made, or it may be of luxurious little
+dinners at other famous restaurants, and is suggestive, in fact, of
+anything but economy. Yet it is really an inexpensive dish.
+
+But while it is quite true that fine cooking does not always mean
+expensive cooking, it is also true that it requires the best materials
+and sufficient of them; that if satisfactory results are to be obtained
+there must be no attempt to stint or change proportions from a false
+idea of economy, although it must never be forgotten that all good
+cooking is economical, by which I mean that there is no waste, every
+cent’s worth of material being made to do its full duty.
+
+In this book the object will be to give the newest and most _recherché_
+dishes, and these will naturally be expensive. Yet for those families
+who depend upon the caterer for everything in the way of fine soups,
+_entrées_, or sauces, because the cook can achieve only the plain part
+of the dinner, it will be found a great economy as well as convenience
+to be independent of this outside resource, which is always very costly,
+and invariably destroys the individuality of a repast. Many new recipes
+will be given, and others little known in private kitchens, or thought
+to be quite beyond the attainment of any but an accomplished _chef_. But
+if strict attention be paid to small matters, and the directions
+faithfully carried out, there will be no difficulty in a lady becoming
+her own _chef_.
+
+I propose to begin with sauces. This is reversing the usual mode, and
+yet I think the reader will not regret the innovation. The cooking to be
+taught in these pages, being emphatically what is popularly known as
+“Delmonico cooking,� very much depends on the excellence of the sauces
+served with each dish; and as it is no time to learn to make a fine
+sauce when the dish it is served with is being cooked, I think the
+better plan is to give the sauces first. They will be frequently
+referred to, but no repetition of the recipes will be given.
+
+Before proceeding further I will say a few words that may save time and
+patience hereafter. Of course it is not expected that any one will hope
+to succeed with elaborate dishes without understanding the principles of
+simple cooking, but many do this without perceiving that in that
+knowledge they hold the key to very much more, and I would ask readers
+who are in earnest about the matter to acquire the habit of putting two
+and two together in cooking as they would in fancy-work. If you know
+half a dozen embroidery or lace stitches, you see at once that you can
+produce the elaborate combinations in which those stitches are used. So
+it is with cooking. The most elaborate dish will only be a combination
+of two or three simpler processes of cooking, _perfectly_ done--that is
+a _sine qua non_--something fried, roasted, boiled, or braised to
+perfection, and a sauce that no _chef_ could improve upon; but to
+recognize that this is so--that when you can make a Châteaubriand sauce
+or a Béarnaise perfectly, and can _sauté_ a steak, the famed filets à la
+Châteaubriand or à la Béarnaise are no longer a mystery, or that one who
+can make clear meat jelly and roast a chicken has learned all but the
+arrangement of a _chaudfroid_ in aspic--will make apparently complicated
+dishes simple.
+
+I go into these matters because I hope to cause my readers to _think_
+about the recipes they will use, when they will see for themselves that
+even the finest cooking is not intricate nor in any way difficult. It
+requires intelligence and great care about details: no half-attention
+will do, any more than it will in any other thing we attempt, whether it
+be high art or domestic art.
+
+In making sauces or reading recipes for them it simplifies matters to
+remember that in savory sauces--by which I mean those served with meats
+or fish--there are what the French call the two “mother sauces,� white
+sauce and brown; all others, with few exceptions, are modifications of
+these two; that is to say, béchamel is only white sauce made with white
+stock and cream instead of milk; Allemande is the same, only yolks of
+eggs replace the cream; and so on through the long list of sauces
+belonging to the blond variety. The simple brown sauce becomes the
+famous Châteaubriand by the addition of glaze (or very strong gravy) and
+a glass of white wine, and is the “mother� of many others equally fine.
+This being so, it will be seen that it is of the first importance that
+the making of these two “mother sauces� should be thoroughly understood,
+in order for the finer ones based on them to be successfully
+accomplished.
+
+It will clear the way for easy work if I here give the directions for
+making one of the most necessary and convenient aids to fine
+cooking--the above-named glaze. To have it in the house saves much worry
+and work. If the soup is not just so strong as we wish, the addition of
+a small piece of glaze will make it excellent; or we wish to make brown
+sauce, and have no stock, the glaze comes to our aid. To have stock in
+the house at all times is by no means easy in a small family, especially
+in summer; with glaze, which is solidified stock, one is independent of
+it.
+
+Six pounds of lean beef from the leg, or a knuckle of veal and beef to
+make six pounds. Cut this in pieces two inches square or less; do the
+same with half a pound of lean ham, free from rind or smoky outside, and
+which has been scalded five minutes. Put the meat into a two-gallon pot
+with three medium-sized onions with two cloves in each, a turnip, a
+carrot, and a _small_ head of celery. Pour over them five quarts of cold
+water; let it come slowly to the boiling-point, when skim, and draw to
+a spot where it will gently simmer for six hours. This stock as it is
+will be an excellent foundation for all kinds of clear soups or gravies,
+with the addition of salt, which must on no account be added for glaze.
+
+To reduce this stock to glaze, do as follows: Strain the stock first
+through a colander, and return meat and vegetables to the pot; put to
+them four quarts of _hot_ water, and let it boil four hours longer. The
+importance of this second boiling, which may at first sight appear
+useless economy, will be seen if you let the two stocks get cold; the
+first will be of delightful flavor, but probably quite liquid; the last
+will be flavorless, but if the boiling process has been slow enough it
+will be a jelly, the second boiling having been necessary to extract the
+gelatine from the bones, which is indispensable for the formation of
+glaze.
+
+Strain both these stocks through a scalded cloth. (If they have been
+allowed to get cool, heat them in order to strain.) Put both stocks
+together into one large pot, and let it boil as fast as possible with
+the cover off, leaving a large spoon in it to prevent it boiling over,
+also to stir occasionally; when it is reduced to three pints put it into
+a small saucepan, and let it boil more slowly. Stir frequently with a
+wooden spoon until it begins to thicken and has a fine yellowish-brown
+color, which will be when it is reduced to a quart or rather less. At
+this point watch closely, as it quickly burns. When there is only a pint
+and a half it will be fit to pour into small cups or jars, or it may be
+dried in thin sheets, if required for soup in travelling; to do this,
+pour it into oiled tin pans an inch deep. When cold it can be cut out in
+two-inch squares and dried by exposure to the air till it is like glue.
+One square makes a cup of strong soup if dissolved in boiling water and
+seasoned. If, however, it is put into pots, it must _not be covered_
+until all moisture has evaporated and the glaze shrinks from the sides
+of the jar. This may take a month.
+
+The most convenient of all ways for preserving glaze is to get from your
+butcher a yard of sausage-skin. Tie one end very tightly, then pour in
+the glaze while warm by means of a large funnel. Tie the skin just as
+you would sausage as close to the glaze as possible, cut off any
+remaining skin, and hang the one containing the glaze up to dry. When
+needed, a slice is cut from this.
+
+Of course any strong meat and bone-soup can be boiled down in the same
+way, and where there is meat on hand in danger of spoiling from sudden
+change of weather it can be turned into glaze, and kept indefinitely. I
+have found glaze five years old as good as the first week.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+SAUCES.
+
+
+In addition to the glaze, for which the recipe is given in the preceding
+pages, and which will make you independent of the stock pot, there are
+several other articles involving very small outlay which it is
+absolutely necessary to have at hand in order to follow directions
+without trouble and worry.
+
+It is often said by thoughtless housekeepers that cooking-books are of
+little use, because the recipes always call for something that is not in
+the house. This is a habit of mind only, for the very women who say it
+keep their work-baskets supplied with everything necessary for work, not
+only the everyday white and black spools, nor would they hesitate to
+undertake a piece of embroidery which required quite unusual
+combinations of color or material, and to be obtained only with
+difficulty. Grant a little of this earnest painstaking to the
+requirements of the cooking-book at the start, see that the herb-bottles
+are supplied with dried herbs (when fresh are not attainable), the
+spice-boxes contain the small quantity of fresh fine spices that is
+sufficient for a good deal of cooking, and red and white wine and brandy
+are in the house, all of which should be kept in the store-closet for
+cooking alone, and not liable to be “out� when wanted.
+
+The so-called “French herbs� are rarely found in American gardens, yet
+might be very readily sown in early spring, as parsley is; but although
+seldom home-grown, they are to be found at the French market-gardener’s
+in Washington Market, and can be bought fresh and dried in paper bags
+quickly for use. I say dried quickly, because unless the sun is very hot
+much of the aroma will pass into the air; it is, therefore, better to
+dry them in a cool oven. When they are dry enough to crumble to dust,
+free the herbs from stems and twigs, and put them separately into tin
+boxes or wide-mouthed bottles, each labelled. The expense of herbs and
+spices is very slight, and they are certainly not neglected among
+kitchen stores on that account; it is merely the want of habit in
+ordering them. In addition to these articles a bottle of capers, one of
+olives, one of anchovies, canned mushrooms, and canned truffles should
+be on hand--the latter should be bought in the smallest-sized cans, as
+they are very costly, but a little goes a long way. Families living in
+the country often have for a season more mushrooms than they can use. In
+the few days in which they are plentiful opportunity should be taken to
+peel and dry as many as possible; when powdered they give a finer flavor
+than the canned mushroom, and may be used to great advantage in dark
+sauces.
+
+The French _chef_ classes all white sauces as _blonde_, and calls the
+jar of very smooth thick white sauce, which he keeps ready made as a
+foundation for most of the family of light sauces, his _blonde_ or
+_velouté_. This explanation is given because directions are often found
+in French recipes to “take half a pint of velouté� or of “blonde.� The
+mistress of a private house may not find it wise or necessary to keep a
+supply of sauce ready made, although to one who has to supply a variety
+of sauces each day it is indispensable; but the day before a
+dinner-party sauces can be so made, and covered with a film of butter to
+prevent skin forming, and can then be heated in a bain-marie when
+required for use. Almost every _chef_ has his favorite recipe for
+velouté, or white sauce, but they differ only in points that are little
+essential; the foundation is always the same, as follows: Put two ounces
+of butter in a thick saucepan with two ounces of flour (tablespoonfuls
+approximate the ounce, but weight only should be relied on for fine
+cooking). Let these melt over the fire, stirring them so that the
+butter and flour become well mixed; then let them bubble together,
+stirring enough to prevent the flour sticking or changing color. Three
+minutes will suffice to cook the flour; add a pint of clear hot white
+stock that has been strained through a cloth. This stock must not be
+poured slowly, or the sauce will thicken too fast. Hold the pint-measure
+or other vessel in which the stock may be in the left hand, stir the
+butter and flour quickly with the right, then turn the broth to it _all
+at once_. Let this simmer an hour until very thick, then add a gill of
+very rich cream, stir, and the sauce is ready.
+
+This is undoubtedly the best way to make white sauce, which is to serve
+as a foundation for others, or is intended to mask meat or poultry, the
+long, slow simmering producing an extreme blandness not to be attained
+by a quicker method. But circumstances sometimes prevent the previous
+preparation of the sauce, in which case it may be made exactly in the
+same way, only instead of a pint of broth, but three gills should be
+poured on the butter and flour, and a gill of thick cream stirred in
+when it boils; the sauce is finished when it again reaches the
+boiling-point.
+
+This is the foundation for the following “grand� sauces: Poulette,
+Allemande, Uxelles, Soubise, Ste. Ménehould, Périgueux, Suprême, besides
+all the simpler ones, which take their name from the chief ingredient,
+such as caper, cauliflower, celery, lobster, etc., etc.
+
+For sauces that have vinegar or lemon juice, it is better that the
+velouté, or white sauce, should have no cream until the last minute, or
+it may curdle. My object in giving the recipes for sauces in the way I
+intend--that is to say, by building on to, or omitting from, one
+foundation sauce--is to dispel some of the confusion which exists in the
+minds of many people about the exact difference between several sauces
+differing from each other very slightly--a confusion which is only
+added to by reading over the fully written recipes for each, as many a
+painstaking, intelligent woman’s headache will testify. As we progress,
+the exact difference between each will be explained.
+
+_Béchamel._--This sauce differs from the white sauce only in the fact
+that the white stock used for the latter need not be very strong; for
+béchamel it should either be very strong or boiled down rapidly to make
+it so, and there should always be half cream instead of one third, as in
+white sauce, and when required for fish the stock may be of fish. White
+sauce is frequently (perhaps most frequently) made with milk, or milk
+and cream, in place of stock, in this country, and answers admirably for
+many purposes, but would not be what is required for the kind of cooking
+intended in these pages.
+
+Most readers know how “to stir,� and it may seem quite an unnecessary
+matter to go into. Yet if only one reader does not know that to stir
+means a regular, even, slow circling of the spoon, _not only in the
+centre_ of the saucepan, but round the sides, she will fail in making
+good sauce. Stir, then, slowly, gently, going over every part of the
+bottom of the saucepan till the sides are reached, pass the spoon gently
+round them, thence back to the middle, and so on. In this way the sauce
+gets no chance to stick to any particular spot. A small copper saucepan
+is the best possible utensil for making sauce, as it does not burn.
+
+The rule for seasoning is a level salt-spoonful of salt to half a pint;
+pepper, one fourth the quantity. This, however, is only when the stock
+is unseasoned; if seasoned, only salt enough must be added to season the
+cream and eggs.
+
+_Allemande._--Take half a pint of white sauce, add to it half the liquor
+from a can of mushrooms, and half a dozen of the mushrooms chopped fine.
+Let them simmer--stirring all the time--five minutes, then remove from
+the fire. Set the saucepan into another containing boiling water. Have
+the yolks of three eggs ready beaten, put a little of the sauce to them,
+beat together, then add the eggs gradually to the rest of the sauce,
+which must be returned to the fire, and stirred until the eggs _begin_
+to thicken; then it must be quickly removed, and stirred until slightly
+cool. Season with a saltspoonful of salt, a fourth of one of pepper, and
+strain carefully.
+
+It must never be forgotten that in thickening with eggs the sauce or
+soup must _not boil_ after they are added, or they will curdle. Yet if
+they do not reach the boiling-point they will not thicken. Only keen
+attention to the first sign of thickening will insure success. If a
+failure is made the first time, look upon it as the first step to
+success, for you have learned what the danger _looks like_. Make the
+sauce again as soon as possible, so that your eye may not lose the
+impression. It is worth considerable effort (and it is really only a
+matter of a few minutes each time) to make Allemande sauce well, for in
+doing so you also learn to make Hollandaise and several choice sauces,
+as will be seen by those that follow.
+
+_Poulette Sauce._--Make Allemande sauce as directed in the foregoing
+recipe; add a wineglass of white wine. If sweetbreads or chicken are to
+be cooked in the sauce, as is not unusual, of course the eggs must be
+left out until the last thing. Anything served with this sauce is called
+_à la poulette_.
+
+_Sauce à la d’Uxelles._--Chop fine a dozen _small_ button mushrooms, or
+half a dozen large ones; parsley and chives, of each enough to make a
+teaspoonful when finely chopped; of lean ham a tablespoonful, and one
+small shallot. Fry gently in a tablespoonful of butter, but do not let
+them brown. Stir these into half a pint of white sauce, simmer three or
+four minutes, then add two yolks of eggs, as for Allemande, and the last
+thing a half-teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and just enough glaze to make
+the sauce the shade of a pale Suède glove. This sauce is used cold to
+coat meats that have to be cooked in paper, and many that are afterwards
+to be fried in bread-crumbs, for which directions will be given in the
+_entrées_. Dishes termed _à la d’Uxelles_ are among the most _recherché_
+productions of the French kitchen.
+
+_Villeroi Sauce._--Make half a pint of white sauce, which, as in the
+case of béchamel, may be made of fish stock when for use with fish; chop
+half a dozen mushrooms, and add a gill of the liquor to the sauce, half
+a saltspoonful of powdered thyme (or one sprig, if fresh), two sprigs of
+parsley, and half a bay-leaf; simmer for fifteen minutes; strain through
+a scalded cloth; replace on the fire; add a piece of glaze as large as a
+hazel-nut, or a tablespoonful of strong meat-gravy, just enough to give
+it the shade of _palest_ café au lait; thicken with two yolks of eggs,
+as for Allemande sauce. All articles served with this sauce are termed
+_à la Villeroi_. It differs from d’Uxelles only in having no ham, nor
+acidity from the lemon; also, all flavor of onion is omitted.
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+WHITE SAUCES.
+
+
+Suprême sauce gives its name to several dishes dear to epicures--suprême
+de volaille, suprême de Toulouse, etc. It is made with a pint of thick
+white sauce, a pint of very strong chicken broth, four stalks of
+parsley, and six white pepper-corns, boiled down to half a pint. Stir
+sauce and broth together until thoroughly blended, then boil rapidly
+down till thick again, taking great care it does not burn. Add one gill
+of double cream, and half a saltspoonful of salt (if the stock was
+already seasoned). Boil up till thick enough _to mask the back of a
+spoon_, strain, and the last thing add a small teaspoonful of lemon
+juice.
+
+When the white sauce has to be made expressly for the suprême, it is
+easier to use strong chicken broth in place of ordinary white stock;
+then it is not necessary to add it after. The term “to mask the back of
+a spoon� is a common one to indicate the proper thickness for sauces,
+but to the untrained eye it may not be easy to decide just what
+“masking� means. Most sauces should be thin enough to run quite freely
+from the spoon, yet not so thin as to leave the color of the spoon
+visible through the coating of sauce it will retain if it be dipped into
+it; there should be a thin _opaque_ coating or “mask� to the back of the
+spoon. Sauce of this thickness is produced by using one ounce (exact
+weight) of flour of fine quality to half a pint of liquid. Meat, fish,
+or vegetables over which sauce of this consistency has been poured will
+be quite masked, but the sauce will not be too thick to serve readily
+with a spoon. This consistency is worth some practice to attain, for it
+is the perfection of sauce-making.
+
+White sauce, when intended for the foundation of others, it must be
+observed, is made twice as thick, to allow for the addition of cream,
+wine, or stock. The only advantage in a private family of making it thus
+thick is when, perhaps, two or three sauces are needed for a dinner; for
+example, a plain white sauce for a vegetable, caper, lobster, or
+cardinal for other purposes, and perhaps poulette, d’Uxelles, or other
+pale sauce for an entrée; but when one sauce only is required, it is
+best to make that one from the beginning; that is to say, make white
+sauce with the additions that form it into Allemande, suprême, or
+whatever you require.
+
+_Ste. Ménehould Sauce_ is in these days chiefly associated with “pigs’
+feet à la Ste. Ménehould,� but is good for several purposes. It is
+simply half a pint of white sauce into which a dozen bruised mushrooms,
+a gill of the mushroom liquor, a large teaspoonful of finely chopped
+chives, with the sixth of a saltspoonful of pepper and one of salt are
+allowed to simmer until the sauce is the same thickness as before the
+addition of the mushroom liquor; that is to say, thick enough to mask
+the spoon. Strain, return to the saucepan, and add a teaspoonful of
+finely chopped sage leaves, if for pigs’ feet, or parsley for other
+purposes; boil once, add half a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and the
+sauce is ready.
+
+_Béarnaise Sauce._--This is one of the most difficult sauces to make, on
+account of the danger of the eggs curdling; but by the following method
+the work is rendered more sure than by the usual plan. It has been said
+that the terrors of a cook are Béarnaise sauce and omelette soufflée,
+but neither is really difficult; great care only is necessary for
+success with each.
+
+Chop four shallots fine, put them into a saucepan with half a gill of
+Tarragon vinegar and half a gill of plain vinegar; boil till reduced to
+one tablespoonful; then add one gill of white sauce, mixing well. Stand
+the saucepan in another of boiling water; then add, one at a time, three
+yolks of eggs, beating each, one well in before adding another, _and on
+no account let the sauce boil_. Remove the saucepan from the fire when
+the eggs are all in and show signs of thickening. Have ready three
+ounces of butter cut into small pieces; drop one in at a time, and with
+an egg-whisk beat the sauce till the butter is blended; then add another
+piece, and so on, till all the butter is used. If added too quickly the
+butter will oil, therefore great care must be taken to see one piece
+entirely blend before adding another. The butter will probably salt the
+sauce enough, but if not, add a very little salt. This sauce should have
+the appearance of a Welsh-rabbit when ready to spread; in other words,
+it should be very thick, smooth, and dark yellow.
+
+_Soubise._--This sauce, which transforms ordinary mutton-chops into
+“côtelettes à la Soubise,� is very easily made. Boil half a dozen
+Bermuda onions (medium size) in milk till quite tender; press out all
+the milk; chop them as fine as possible; sprinkle a quarter of a
+saltspoonful of white pepper and one of salt over them; then stir them
+with a tablespoonful of butter into half a pint of white sauce. If the
+onions should thin the sauce too much (they are sometimes very watery),
+thicken with a yolk of egg, or blend a teaspoonful of flour with the
+butter before stirring it in. Boil the sauce three minutes. Needless to
+say, if the yolk of egg is added, it must be beaten in after the sauce
+is removed from the stove, and only allowed to thicken, not boil.
+
+The sauces so far given are what French cooks call “grand sauces.� They
+are the most important part of the dish with which they are served, and,
+as we have seen, give the name to it. There are numberless other sauces
+of which the white sauce is parent that are, however, not indispensable
+to the dish they are served with--by which I mean a boiled fish may be
+served with oyster sauce or Dutch sauce, the sauce being in this case
+simply the adjunct.
+
+A dessertspoonful of capers put into half a pint of white sauce, with a
+teaspoonful of the vinegar, makes caper sauce.
+
+Celery sauce is, again, white sauce with the pulp of boiled celery. Boil
+the white part of four heads of celery (sliced thin) in milk till it
+will mash; this will take an hour, perhaps more; then rub the pulp
+through a coarse sieve, and stir it into half a pint of white sauce made
+with half rich cream.
+
+Oyster sauce is white sauce made by using the oyster liquor instead of
+stock. The oysters should be bearded, just allowed to plump in the
+liquor, which must then be strained for the sauce, using a gill of it
+with a gill of thick cream to make half a pint; for this quantity a
+dozen and a half of small oysters will be required.
+
+Shrimp sauce, parsley sauce, lobster sauce, cucumber sauce, and all the
+family are white sauce with the addition of the ingredient naming it.
+Cucumber sauce, which is approved for fish, is made by grating a
+cucumber, and adding it, with the water from it, to some white sauce;
+boil till well flavored, and then strain. If too thin, boil till thick,
+stirring carefully.
+
+For shrimp sauce canned shrimps serve very well indeed; they must be
+thrown for a minute into cold water, well stirred in it to remove
+superfluous salt, then drained, and dried on a cloth. Put a gill of
+shrimps to half a pint of béchamel made with fish stock, boil once, and
+stir in just enough essence of anchovy to make the sauce a pale shrimp
+pink.
+
+Cardinal sauce is a handsome sauce for boiled fish. It is made by drying
+the coral from a lobster, then pounding it quite smooth, with one ounce
+of butter, until it is a perfectly smooth paste. Stir this into half a
+pint of béchamel. It should be a fine red when mixed; pass through a
+sieve, and add as much cayenne as will go on the end of the blade of a
+small penknife.
+
+Hollandaise or Dutch sauce is best made in the following way. There are
+other methods, but this one meets general approval, is not difficult,
+and agrees with many who cannot possibly eat it when oil is used.
+
+Make half a pint of drawn butter by melting one ounce of butter with one
+ounce of flour over the fire; let them bubble together (stirring the
+while) for one minute; then stir in half a pint of boiling water and
+half a teaspoonful of salt. So far, the making is exactly the same as
+for white sauce, except that water is used instead of cream and stock.
+Boil once, then set the saucepan in another of water, and break up an
+ounce of butter into small pieces and add them; stir briskly after each
+piece is added, and see it blend before putting more. When all is in,
+add the beaten yolks of five eggs, removing the saucepan from the fire
+while doing it. They must be very carefully and gradually stirred in,
+and when well mixed returned to the fire until they _begin_ to thicken.
+The eggs must be kept from curdling. Squeeze in two teaspoonfuls of
+lemon juice, and add just a dust of cayenne. This should be a thick,
+yellow, custard-like sauce, and have a perceptible acidity without being
+sour.
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+BROWN SAUCES.
+
+
+It has been already stated that the family of brown sauces, like the
+white, have one parent, _Espagnole_, or Spanish sauce, which is the
+foundation for Châteaubriand, Financière, Robert, Poivrade, Piquante,
+and other sauces. Ordinary brown sauce, like ordinary white, is often
+made without stock--simply an ounce of flour, one of butter, browned
+together, and half a pint of boiling water added, then boiled till thick
+and smooth. But it may be safely said that in high-class dark sauces
+water should play no part; its place must be taken by stock of good
+quality, which is often enriched by reducing or adding glaze.
+
+The characteristics of finely made Spanish sauce are a clear beautiful
+brown, by no means approaching black, absolute freedom from grease, and
+a fine high flavor, so well blended that no particular spice or herb can
+be detected. Spanish sauce is made as follows: Wash, peel, and cut small
+six mushrooms (or a dessertspoonful of mushroom powder), one small
+carrot, one small onion, and one shallot; dry them, and fry them a fine
+brown in a tablespoonful of butter, but do not let them burn; drain off
+the butter. Melt in a copper saucepan two ounces of butter and two
+ounces of flour, stir them together over the fire till of a pale bright
+brown, then add a pint of stock, the fried vegetables, and a gill of
+tomato sauce; let all gently simmer for half an hour with the cover off.
+Strain through a fine sieve. When Spanish sauce is to be served without
+any addition, and not as a foundation, a wineglass of sherry is used and
+the same quantity of stock omitted.
+
+It becomes Châteaubriand by the addition of a wineglass of sherry
+reduced to half a glass by boiling in a tiny saucepan, a
+dessertspoonful of fresh parsley very finely chopped, and the juice of
+half a small lemon. These must be added to _one third_ the quantity of
+Espagnole, or Spanish sauce, given in the foregoing recipe. Then stir in
+gradually, bit by bit, one ounce of butter, letting each piece blend
+before adding more.
+
+I have said here and elsewhere, “the juice of half a small lemon.� Yet I
+would caution the reader to squeeze it in gradually, because some lemons
+are intensely sour, and a very few drops of juice from such go farther
+than that of the whole half of an average lemon. Châteaubriand sauce is
+by no means acid; there must be only a just perceptible dash of acidity,
+and only so much lemon juice used as will give it zest. Piquante sauce
+is different; there should be acidity enough to provoke appetite; yet
+even this should be by no means sour.
+
+To make _Piquante sauce_, chop a shallot fine, put it, with a
+tablespoonful of vinegar, into a very small saucepan; let them stew
+together until the vinegar is _entirely absorbed_, but do not let it
+burn. Then add to it half a pint of Spanish sauce and a gill of stock,
+with a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme; cook very gently ten minutes,
+remove the thyme and bay-leaf, and add a dessertspoonful of chopped
+pickled cucumber, a teaspoonful of capers, and a dessertspoonful of
+_finely_ chopped parsley. Simmer very slowly ten minutes more; then add
+enough cayenne to lay on the tip of a penknife blade.
+
+_Poivrade_ resembles piquante sauce very closely, differing from it,
+however, by the addition of wine and higher flavoring. To make it, fry
+an onion and a small carrot cut fine, a tomato sliced, and an ounce of
+lean ham in two ounces of butter; let them brown slightly; then add to
+them half a pint of claret, a bouquet of herbs, two cloves, and six
+peppercorns; let them simmer till the wine is reduced one half; then add
+half a pint of good Spanish sauce, boil gently ten minutes, strain, and
+serve very hot. A true French poivrade has a _soupçon_ of garlic,
+obtained by rubbing a crust on a clove of it, and simmering it in the
+sauce before straining it; but although many would like the scarcely
+perceptible zest imparted by this cautious use of garlic, no one should
+try the experiment unless sure of her company.
+
+A “bouquet of herbs� always means two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme,
+one of marjoram, and a bay-leaf, so rolled together (the bay-leaf in the
+middle) and tied that there is no difficulty in removing it from any
+dish which is not to be strained.
+
+The well-known _Bordelaise sauce_ is simply Spanish sauce with the
+addition of white wine and shallots. Scald a tablespoonful of chopped
+shallots; put them to half a pint of Chablis, Sauterne, or any similar
+white wine; let the wine reduce to one gill; then mix with it half a
+pint of Spanish sauce and the sixth part of a saltspoonful of pepper.
+Strain and serve.
+
+_Robert sauce_, that excellent adjunct to beefsteak, varies again from
+Bordelaise, vinegar and mustard and fried onions taking the place of the
+wine and shallot. Chop three medium-sized onions quite fine; fry them in
+a tablespoonful of butter until they are a clear yellowish-brown,
+stirring them constantly as they fry; drain them, and put them to a
+half-pint of Spanish sauce, to which you add a wineglass of stock (to
+allow for boiling away); simmer gently twenty minutes; add a pinch of
+pepper; strain; then mix a teaspoonful of vinegar in a cup with a
+teaspoonful of mustard; stir this into the sauce.
+
+_Sauce à la Normande_ is one of the most delicious sauces for baked fish
+of any kind, although usually associated with sole. To half a pint of
+Spanish sauce add a dozen mushrooms sliced in half, a dozen small
+oysters with the beards removed, and a dozen crawfish, if they are to be
+had, or their place may be taken by a tablespoonful of shrimps picked
+(canned shrimps, washed and dried, answer very well), one tablespoonful
+of essence of anchovy, and just a dust of Cayenne pepper.
+
+Light _Normande_ is made by using béchamel instead of Spanish sauce,
+adding all the other materials; it is then a pale salmon-colored sauce,
+excellent for boiled fish.
+
+A favorite English sauce for fish, which is also brown or pink,
+according to whether it is intended for baked or boiled fish, is the
+_Downton sauce_. To three quarters of a pint of béchamel add a
+dessertspoonful of anchovy essence and a small wineglass of sherry, mix
+well, and serve.
+
+_Orange sauce_ for game is made with half a pint of Spanish sauce boiled
+five minutes to make it rather thicker than usual, the juice of three
+sweet oranges, and the peel of one. This peel must be so thinly pared as
+to be transparent. Boil this peel half an hour in water, then shred it
+into fine even strips half an inch long, and not thicker than broom
+straw. Stew this shredded peel another half-hour in a gill of stock,
+with a scant teaspoonful of sugar; then add it to the sauce, with half
+a saltspoonful of salt, and boil five minutes.
+
+_Matelote_ may come in with the brown sauces, although it is not made
+with Spanish sauce as a foundation, but only with strong stock. It is
+used to simmer fish in when directed to be _à la matelote_, and if it
+were already thickened the whole would burn. It is made as follows: Half
+a pint of Sauterne or Chablis, half a pint of rich stock, two
+bay-leaves, three leaves of tarragon, chervil, and chive, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper; simmer these until
+reduced to one half-pint. A _touch_ of garlic is indispensable to the
+true matelote, but when used it must be done with the greatest caution;
+a fork stuck into a clove of it, then stirred in the sauce (the fork,
+when withdrawn, not the garlic), or a crust rubbed once across a piece
+of it, is the only way in which it should be used.
+
+Like the white sauces, the family of brown ones is very large, but I
+have given those which require special directions. Others are simply
+Spanish sauce with the addition of the ingredient which gives its name
+to it, as brown oyster sauce is simply Spanish sauce with oysters,
+celery sauce, mushroom sauce, and so on. It should always be remembered
+that the consistency must be preserved; that is to say, except when
+special mention is made of the sauce being thinner, it should “mask the
+spoon,� and if the addition made to it is of a kind to dilute it, as
+mushrooms and part of their liquor, it must be rapidly boiled down to
+the original thickness. In the same way, when ingredients have to be
+simmered in the sauce--and this is very often the case--then a
+wineglassful or half one of broth or stock should be allowed for the
+wasting.
+
+In the next chapter we will make acquaintance with the miscellaneous
+sauces which are not built on the foundation of either white or brown
+sauce. These are chiefly cold sauces, although served with hot dishes at
+times, as Tartare, Remoulade, etc.
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+COLD SAUCES.
+
+
+Cold dishes, which are such a pleasing feature of foreign cookery, are
+much neglected with us, at least in private kitchens, or they are
+limited to two or three articles served in mayonnaise, or a galantine,
+yet the dishes which the French call _chaudfroids_ are both delicious
+and ornamental, and it only requires a little taste, care, and _perfect
+sauce_ to convert the ordinary cold chicken, turkey, or game into an
+elaborate and choice dish.
+
+Among cold sauces, of course mayonnaise, both green, red, and yellow,
+reigns supreme; indeed, of late years it has become almost hackneyed.
+Yet no work on choice eating would be complete without the different
+forms of mayonnaise.
+
+Mayonnaise is one of those sauces in which everything depends on care,
+and very little on skill, and yet some women have quite a reputation for
+making it among their friends who often declare how unsuccessful their
+own efforts have been, and that to succeed is a gift. It is not as a
+novelty, therefore, that the manner of making it is given here, but that
+those who believe they have not the “magic fingers� may take courage and
+try again.
+
+First of all let me explain what seems to puzzle many. I have been
+frequently asked, “How much oil can I use to two eggs?� the answer is,
+“As much as you choose;� or, again, “How many eggs ought I to take to a
+quart of oil?� again the answer is, “One, two, three, or four.� The egg
+is only a foundation, and mayonnaise will “come� no better with two
+yolks than one, although some _chefs_ consider it keeps better when two
+eggs are used to a pint of oil.
+
+A cool room is always insisted on for making the sauce, but to the
+amateur I say, oil, eggs, and bowl also, should be put in the ice-box
+until well chilled, and even then mishaps may come from using a warm
+spoon from a hot kitchen drawer or closet; that, therefore, must be cool
+also. Of course it is often successfully made with only the usual
+precaution of a cool room, but with everything well chilled it is hard
+to fail.
+
+If very little of the sauce is wanted, one yolk of egg will be better
+than two. Separate the yolks very carefully, allowing not a speck of
+white to remain; remove also the germ which is attached to the yolk.
+_Stir the yolk at least a minute before_ beginning to add oil; then
+arrange your bottle or a sharp-spouted pitcher in your left hand so that
+it rests on the edge of the bowl, and you can keep up a pretty steady
+drop, drop, into the egg, while you stir with your right steadily. The
+oil must be added drop by drop, but this does not mean a drop every two
+or three minutes; you may add a drop to every one or two circuits of
+the spoon. The reason for adding it slowly is that each drop may form an
+emulsion with the egg before more goes in. After two or three minutes
+look carefully at the mixture; if it has not begun to look pale and
+opaque, but retains a dark, oily appearance, stir it steadily for two
+minutes, and then add oil slowly, drop by drop, stirring all the time.
+If it has not now begun to thicken, it probably will not; but the
+materials are not lost. Put the yolk of another egg into a cool bowl,
+and begin again using the egg and oil you have already mixed, in place
+of fresh oil. When this is all used, proceed with the oil (it is hoped,
+however, that the work will have proceeded without the necessity for
+beginning afresh). When the mayonnaise becomes quite thick, use a few
+drops of vinegar to thin it; then more oil, until sufficient sauce is
+made. Then white pepper and salt should be added for seasoning. The
+vinegar used should be very strong, so that very little of it will be
+sufficient to give the necessary acidity, without making it too thin.
+This is especially the case when the sauce is required to mask salad. It
+should for this purpose be set on ice until firm, but in all cases be
+kept cold. The best mayonnaise, left in a warm kitchen, would separate
+and become oily. The stirring must be steady and constant, and the task
+must not be left until completed.
+
+Mayonnaise is the basis of several other sauces, so that in
+accomplishing it a great deal is done.
+
+Green mayonnaise is made by dropping a bunch of parsley into boiling
+water, and in a minute or two, when it becomes intensely green, take it
+up, pound it in a mortar, and then through a sieve. Use as much pulp as
+will color the sauce a delicate green.
+
+Red mayonnaise, used for cardinal salad and other purposes, is made by
+pounding lobster coral very fine and stirring it in. It must not be
+forgotten that anything added to mayonnaise must be ice-cold.
+
+_Aspic mayonnaise_ is another form of the sauce, used in dressing cold
+dishes, and while more delicious than the usual sauce, will keep its
+form for hours after the dish is dressed. It is absolutely necessary to
+prepare it on ice. Put half a pint of stiff aspic jelly into a bowl set
+in cracked ice, whisk it with an egg-beater until it is a white froth
+(usually the motion will melt it, but to save labor it may be set in
+lukewarm water to soften, then beaten, but no oil must be added until it
+is again ice-cold froth); then beat in very gradually a quarter of a
+pint of olive oil and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, proceeding
+with the same care as for the usual mayonnaise; add a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and the same of powdered sugar.
+
+_Norwegian sauce_ is preferred by many to Tartare for some purposes, and
+is made by adding _freshly_ grated horseradish to mayonnaise in the
+proportion of two tablespoonfuls to half a pint.
+
+_Tartare sauce_ is mayonnaise with the addition of mustard, chives,
+pickles, and tarragon, chopped. As usually served, it has only mustard
+and capers or chopped cucumber, but for those to whom a slight flavor of
+onion is not disagreeable, chives should be added. To half a pint of
+mayonnaise use a teaspoonful of dry mustard mixed with two of tarragon
+vinegar, then stir into the sauce. To this add a tablespoonful either of
+capers or chopped pickled cucumber; this is the usual Tartare sauce; but
+the French recipe is a tablespoonful of very finely chopped chives, a
+teaspoonful each of fresh tarragon and chervil in place of the pickles.
+
+_Cold cucumber sauce_ is mayonnaise with an equal quantity of grated
+cucumber, drained, pressed, and stirred into it, with a saltspoonful of
+salt and a few drops of very strong vinegar.
+
+_Horseradish sauce_ is a very good sauce for hot or cold beef, roast or
+boiled. Grate three tablespoonfuls of horseradish fine, put to it a
+teaspoonful of sugar, one of salt, and one of vinegar, or a
+tablespoonful of Chablis wine; let them soak an hour or two, and the
+last thing before serving stir in four tablespoonfuls of cream that is
+whipped very solid. A half-teaspoonful of dry mustard is sometimes mixed
+with the horseradish, but that is a matter of taste. When the sauce is
+to be served hot, two yolks of egg and two tablespoonfuls of water must
+be substituted for cream, which would curdle. The water, horseradish,
+etc., must first come to the boiling-point, then the eggs added
+gradually, and just allowed to thicken, not to boil.
+
+_Mint Sauce._--Take only the young, tender leaves, not a bit of stem,
+and chop very fine indeed. To two tablespoonfuls add a tablespoonful and
+a half of brown sugar and three of vinegar. It should be quite thick,
+not as we so often see it--vinegar with a few bits of mint floating
+around.
+
+_Mint Jelly_ for masking cold lamb or cutlets.--Take two tablespoonfuls
+of Spanish sauce, and dissolve in it a good teaspoonful of gelatine
+softened in cold stock, a tablespoonful of aspic, and one of thick mint
+sauce. If no aspic is ready, it is not worth while to make for the small
+quantity needed; a teaspoonful of glaze, two of gelatine, and half a
+wineglass of Sauterne may be dissolved together to take its place. No
+gelatine will be needed with the Spanish sauce in this case.
+
+Sweet sauces will be left until the desserts are treated of.
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+SOUPS.
+
+
+It is not proposed to give the soups to be found readily in most
+cooking-books in these pages, but only those less known or of peculiar
+excellence.
+
+It is supposed that the reader understands the making of good beef or
+veal stock, and perhaps the usual way of clearing it. But since cooking
+has been studied scientifically, improvements on methods have been
+introduced; one of these is the clearing of soup with albumen of _meat_
+instead of egg. The advantages of this method are that the soup is
+strengthened and the flavor improved, while clearing with whites of eggs
+in the usual way, though greatly improving the appearance, tends to
+lessen the flavor of soup.
+
+_To clear Consommé with Beef._--Consommé is reduced stock, or stock
+made of extra strength. Carefully remove all fat from three pints of it
+when cold. It will, of course, be a stiff jelly. Chop fine an onion, a
+carrot, and a turnip. Chop half a pound of lean beef from which all fat
+is removed; this is best put through a chopping-machine, as it must be
+very fine. Put the consommé, meat, and vegetables into a saucepan. Stir
+them briskly till just on the boiling-point. Remove the spoon, let the
+soup boil up well one minute. It should now be clear. Take a clean
+cloth, fix it on a soup stand or in a colander, pour boiling water
+through it, to warm it thoroughly; throw the water away, and pour the
+soup gently through the cloth twice; do not press or stir it. It will be
+beautifully clear and of excellent color. It is now ready to serve for a
+variety of soups, named according to what is served in them.
+
+_Consommé à la Rachel._--This is consommé to which is added tiny
+quenelles made in eggspoons, and colored red, green, and black.
+Quenelle meat is made from the uncooked breast of chicken or game, the
+backs of hares or rabbits (or it may be made for certain purposes of
+fish or very white veal), first chopped, and then pounded in a mortar
+until it is a perfectly smooth paste. Mere chopped meat is not what is
+required; it must be fine enough to go through a sieve. For Consommé à
+la Rachel, however, the breast of chicken is necessary. Take four ounces
+of chicken, free from skin and sinew; pound it until quite smooth; the
+more it is pounded the better it is. Mix with it thick cream, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, very little pepper, and half a beaten egg, until
+it is a softish paste, yet firm enough to mould; mix thoroughly. Now try
+a little by poaching in a teaspoon; that is, fill a teaspoon with the
+mixture, pressing it in form, then drop it into boiling water for three
+minutes. Open the quenelle and taste it; if it is creamy, light, and
+well flavored, it is right, but if there is the least toughness, add a
+little more cream to the mixture. Notice also the seasoning; if more
+salt is needed, add it carefully, and try again, till you have the
+quenelle mixture just right, that is to say, creamy, light, very tender,
+yet keeping its form. At present quenelles as entrées or for soups form
+such an important part of fine cooking that it is worth while to get the
+mixture perfect for other purposes than the present.
+
+Having your quenelle meat ready, proceed to vary it as follows, allowing
+one quenelle of each color to each guest: For the green quenelles use
+sufficient pounded tarragon to color one third the meat delicately. For
+the second use sufficient lobster coral pounded to redden it. The third
+must be made dark with pounded truffles. Great care must be taken to
+keep the three portions separate, so that one color may not injure the
+other. To form them use two very small coffeespoons or eggspoons, as the
+quenelles should not be larger than _small_ olives; butter the spoons
+slightly, and when formed drop each for one or two minutes into boiling
+pale-colored stock. Drop them, as they are done, into cold water, in
+which they must be kept until you are ready to use them. When the soup
+is to be served, drain them, lay the number required in the tureen, and
+pour the boiling consommé on them. They will not require heating in the
+soup. It may be observed that raw spinach pounded and rubbed through a
+sieve, and boiled red beet, may be used to color the meat green and red,
+and the rest left white. The consommé is then called Consommé d’Orleans.
+
+_Consommé aux Œufs filés._--Put one quart of cleared consommé to
+boil. Mix one egg, one dessertspoonful of flour, one tablespoonful of
+milk, a pinch between forefinger and thumb of salt, and a dust of
+pepper, into a batter, rub a nutmeg once back and forth over the grater,
+and stir. When the soup boils, pass this batter through a fine strainer
+into it. It should look like threads.
+
+_Consommé à la Sévigné._--Pound two ounces of breast of cooked chicken
+until it will pass through a wide sieve. Mix with it two eggs, three
+tablespoonfuls of milk, twelve drops of almond essence, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, as much nutmeg as will go on the end of a penknife
+blade, and a dust of cayenne. When well blended, fill three or four
+small round muffin pans, well greased, and steam slowly twenty minutes,
+or until set. Turn out very carefully; let them cool; then cut them into
+fancy shapes, and serve in one quart of boiling consommé. A few
+asparagus points boiled until just tender, but not mushy, are to be
+dropped in the last thing.
+
+_Potage à la Hollandaise._--For this will be required one quart of veal
+or chicken stock, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, four yolks
+of eggs, half a pint of cream, one gill of green peas, one gill of
+boiled carrots, one gill of boiled cucumber, one teaspoonful of fresh
+tarragon chopped fine, one teaspoonful of sugar, and one teaspoonful of
+salt. Trim the carrots and cucumber with a very small scoop or cutter
+the size and shape of peas; cook them just tender, and no more, in
+boiling water. Put the stock on to boil; skim if necessary; add the salt
+and sugar. Break the eggs into a bowl, add the cream to them, and beat
+them till well mixed. This forms a “liaison.� Make the butter and flour
+into a paste in a bowl, pour half a gill of cold stock to it, then
+enough hot stock to dissolve it; when mixed smooth, stir it into the
+boiling stock, let it boil, then remove from the fire, and stir in very
+carefully, to prevent curdling, the liaison of eggs and cream; let it
+come to the boiling-point, but not boil, or it will curdle. Strain it
+into a clean stewpan, and add the vegetables; let all get hot together;
+then strew in the tarragon.
+
+_Chestnut Soup (purée de marrons)._--Slit twenty-five large chestnuts at
+each end, put them in boiling water, and boil ten minutes. Drop them
+into cold water, and remove both the outer and inner skin. Melt three
+ounces of butter in a saucepan, put in the chestnuts, and sauté (toss
+them about) for a few minutes, but do not brown them; then add a pint
+and a half of rich white stock, and let the nuts boil in it until very
+tender, when they must be rubbed through a fine sieve. Boil up again,
+add half a pint of cream, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a teaspoonful
+of salt (less if the stock be salted), and a pinch of pepper.
+
+_Princess Soup._--Cut a chicken in pieces; wash it; butter a stewpan,
+put in the chicken with a blade of mace, an onion, a bay-leaf, and
+twelve white peppercorns. Let this simmer, _closely covered_, ten
+minutes, shaking it often to prevent its browning; then put to it two
+quarts of hot veal stock, and simmer one hour. Put into another stewpan
+two ounces of flour and two ounces of butter; stir them together, and
+let them bubble once, then strain the liquor from the chicken to it;
+stir well, and cook a few minutes. Take the white meat from the bones of
+the chicken, pound it in a mortar very fine, stir it to the stock, then
+rub through a soup strainer; add just before serving half a pint of
+fresh cream and the juice of half a lemon. This soup must be made hot,
+but not boil, after the chicken pulp and cream are added.
+
+_Potage à la Royale._--Boil two ounces of macaroni till tender, but not
+broken; throw it into cold water. Put three pints of white stock to
+boil; cut the macaroni into lengths half an inch long; beat three yolks
+of eggs in a bowl with a gill of cream; throw the macaroni into the
+soup; when it boils, remove from the fire, add the cream and eggs and an
+ounce of grated Parmesan cheese; stir till the soup reaches the
+boiling-point, but by no means let it boil, after the cream and eggs are
+added, or it will be spoiled. Salt soup always in the proportion of a
+moderate teaspoonful of salt to the quart; if the stock is seasoned,
+only add salt for the cream, eggs, etc. Use just a suspicion of cayenne.
+In making soup to which eggs are added, the utmost care is required, yet
+not any more than in making custard. The main point is to let the eggs
+come near enough to the boiling-point to thicken, yet far enough from it
+not to curdle. This a little patience will accomplish by watching and
+removing the saucepan for a few seconds as the boiling-point approaches,
+then returning it; do this once or twice, till the opaque, creamy
+appearance shows the eggs are done.
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+FISH ENTRÉES.
+
+
+Instead of giving recipes for cooking fish whole, for which excellent
+directions are to be found in several modern cookery books, recipes for
+fish entrées will be substituted. They are now frequently served at the
+fish course, and by their convenience and economy, as well as the
+variety they afford, are likely to grow in favor. Another point for them
+is that they can often be made hours before, and simply heated when
+needed, thus relieving the cook of the most critical part of her work at
+the time when she needs her attention free.
+
+Some of these entrées will be more suited for breakfast, luncheon, or
+supper dishes than to precede a heavy dinner, such, for instance, as the
+preparations of oysters when they have been also served before soup;
+but the recipes are included here for their intrinsic worth.
+
+_Fillets of Cod à la Normande._--Butter a tin dish, lay on it three
+slices of cod moderately thick (an inch to an inch and a half), pour
+over them one wineglass of white wine, place a buttered paper over them,
+and bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. Reduce another glass of
+wine in a stewpan by simmering, add to it half a pint of white sauce,
+twelve small oysters, bearded and blanched, twelve small
+quenelles,[62-*] and twelve button mushrooms. Season with pepper and
+salt. Simmer one minute only, or the oysters will harden. Place the
+slices of fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, place the
+oysters, mushrooms, and quenelles in groups in the corners of the dish.
+
+_Lobster Soufflées._--Cut up the meat of a boiled hen lobster into neat
+dice, showing as much of the red as possible. Prepare as many small
+ramekin or soufflée cases as may be required by pinning bands of
+writing-paper round them two to three inches higher than the case. Take
+three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise, half a pint of stiff aspic jelly,
+and a gill of tomato sauce in which a teaspoonful of gelatine has been
+dissolved. Every utensil used must be ice-cold, the jelly must be quite
+cold, but not set. Put the tomato sauce, the jelly, and the mayonnaise
+(which should be left on the ice till the last thing) into a bowl set in
+another bowl of pounded ice; whisk them together until they begin to
+look white; then stir the lobster in it, with a teaspoonful of very
+finely chopped chervil and tarragon; fill the soufflée cases, piling the
+dressing high; put them on a dish on ice. When they are “set,� carefully
+remove the paper bands, sprinkle a little dried and sifted lobster coral
+over the tops, and serve.
+
+_Coquilles of Prawns._--Pick the shells from four dozen prawns; mix
+with one third the quantity of mushrooms slightly stewed in a
+tablespoonful of butter and a saltspoonful of salt (the mushrooms must
+not be brown); add four tablespoonfuls of Allemande sauce;[64-*] fill
+the shells, which must be well buttered, dress each over with fine bread
+crumbs which have been carefully fried a golden brown; put them in a
+cool oven twenty minutes, only get thoroughly hot, but not to cook.
+
+_Coquilles of Salmon or Halibut._--Take one pound of cold halibut or
+salmon; break it into small pieces; put it in a stewpan with half a
+saltspoonful of salt and a tiny pinch of pepper, and half a pint of
+white sauce, a tablespoonful of very thick cream, and a teaspoonful of
+anchovy sauce; stir well, and let all get hot. Butter some shells,
+sprinkle over with a few fried crumbs, fill with the mixture, cover with
+the fried crumbs, and put them in the oven to get thoroughly hot. Serve
+on a napkin.
+
+_Salmon en Papillotes._--Cut some slices of salmon into cutlets the
+right size for serving, make paper cases to fit them, then cover each
+slice with the following mixture: two tablespoonfuls of salad oil beaten
+with the yolk of an egg, one teaspoonful of parsley chopped, one shallot
+chopped, and one anchovy (all these must be chopped as finely as
+possible), a half-saltspoonful of salt, and a grain of cayenne; mix,
+spread on the fish, envelop each piece in a well-buttered case, fasten
+up (by pinching the paper well), and bake half an hour. Serve in the
+papers.
+
+_Fillet of Sole à la Normande._--In speaking of sole, one of course
+means the flounder, which is coming to be called the American sole, and
+when filleted does make a fair substitute for the real thing, and it is
+suitable for cooking in every way that the English sole can be used,
+except whole. A boiled flounder without filleting, or a flounder fried
+whole, as is so often done with sole, would be very coarse. Fillet two
+flounders (in cities this will be done by the fishmonger, but in the
+country it may have to be done in the kitchen, therefore directions for
+doing it will be appended), lay the fillets, neatly trimmed and shaped,
+into a thickly buttered pan or dish--either fire-proof porcelain or any
+other that can go to table--pour over them a glass of sherry and four
+tablespoonfuls of consommé; cover with oiled paper, and bake ten minutes
+in a moderate oven; take out the pan, pour over the fillets half a pint
+of _sauce Normande_; return to the oven for five minutes, and serve in
+the pan.
+
+_Sole à l’Horly._--Make a frying batter thus: mix one tablespoonful of
+milk with two ounces of flour and a tablespoonful of salad oil to a
+smooth paste; then add two yolks of eggs, and the whites whipped firm,
+with a quarter of a saltspoonful of salt; mix with an upward movement of
+the spoon, so as not to deaden the whites of eggs. Set it aside while
+you prepare the sole. Mix a tablespoonful of salad oil, a teaspoonful of
+Chili vinegar, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a teaspoonful of
+parsley and one of onion chopped exceedingly fine, a scant saltspoonful
+of salt, and a quarter one of pepper. Mix all together, then cut the
+fillets in half, trimming away all ragged appearance, and lay them for
+fifteen minutes in the mixture (called a marinade); take them out, drain
+them on a sieve, and then dip each fillet in the batter. This batter
+should be just thick enough to coat the fish and run slowly off, not
+cling in a thick paste round it. A French rule for testing the thickness
+of frying batter is to dip a spoon in it and then let a drop run off the
+end on a plate; if it drops freely, yet keeps a beadlike form, it is
+right. Fry each fillet in a wire basket three minutes in very hot deep
+fat. Serve with fried parsley.
+
+_Turbans of Sole à la Rouennaise._--As these require a little of the
+same mixture as would be used for lobster cutlets or croquettes, it is
+good management to have them when lobster is required for something
+else. The mixture for the cutlets is made as follows (less than a fourth
+of it would be required for the turbans): remove all the flesh from a
+boiled hen lobster; chop it small; wash, dry, and pound the coral, with
+an ounce of butter; take one gill of white sauce, mix the lobster coral
+and a tablespoonful of cream with it, and boil five minutes; mix in the
+lobster with a little salt (unless the lobster is salt enough) and a
+grain of cayenne. This made into cutlets, egged, crumbed, and fried, is
+excellent, but our purpose now is to use it for stuffing. Take as many
+fillets of sole as required, spread the lobster mixture on each, roll
+them up, run a toothpick through them to keep them in shape; trim till
+each will stand; put them on a buttered baking-sheet, cover with
+buttered paper, and bake ten minutes. Chop up two truffles, two
+hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and a tablespoonful of parsley, each chopped
+separately. Take up the turbans, pour over them half a pint of cardinal
+sauce, and ornament the turbans, one with the truffles, one with the
+yolk of egg, and one with parsley; so on alternately.
+
+_Directions for Filleting Flounders._--Take a sharp knife, cut away the
+fins all round the fish, and split the flounder right down the middle of
+the back, then run the knife carefully between the flesh and bones,
+going towards the edge. You have now detached one quarter of the flesh
+from the bone; do the other half in the same way, and when the back is
+thus entirely loose from the bone, turn the fish over and do the same
+with the other side. You will now find you can remove the bone whole
+from the fish, detaching, as you do so, any flesh still retaining the
+bone. Then you have two halves of the fish, and you have four quarters
+of solid fish. To remove the skin, take the tail end firmly between the
+thumb and forefinger of the left hand, hold the skin side downward on
+the board, and with your knife make an incision across the flesh, then,
+keeping the skin firmly between your thumb and finger, _push_ the knife
+between it and the flesh, slightly humoring it to prevent tearing the
+flesh. The skin parts quite easily, but no attempt must be made to _cut_
+the fish from it.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[62-*] See Quenelles in No. VI.
+
+[64-*] See directions in No. II.
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING OYSTERS.
+
+
+_Oysters à la Villeroi._--Scald (or blanch) some large oysters, dry
+them, then drop them into some _very thick_ Villeroi sauce,[71-*] let
+them get hot in it, but not boil. Take them out one by one; be sure they
+are thickly coated with the sauce; have a large dish heaped with sifted
+crumbs or cracker meal; as you lift each oyster from the sauce lay it on
+the meal, turn it gently over in the meal, so that a light coat adheres,
+and the sauce is by no means rubbed off. Place them on an oiled plate
+where they will get quite cold, so that the sauce may chill and form a
+whitish glaze under the crumbs. Beat two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of
+water, and when free from strings dip each oyster in the egg, using a
+small fork; let superfluous egg drip off for a moment, then lay the
+oyster again on a deep bed of cracker crumbs, cover well, pat very
+gently, and lay each as you do it on a dish sprinkled with them. Fry two
+minutes in very hot deep fat, being careful the oysters do not touch
+each other.
+
+If I have made these directions as clear as I hope, it will be
+understood that each oyster has a rich creamy coating under the crumbs,
+and every effort must be made to avoid breaking the outer shell of egg
+and crumb. For this reason the fat should be heated to 400°. But
+although great care in handling is necessary, they are not difficult to
+succeed with when that care is given.
+
+_Oyster Kabobs._--There are two ways of preparing these dainties, and I
+give both. For those who cannot eat bacon the first will probably be
+acceptable. For kabobs of any kind, silver or plated skewers are proper,
+although very slender wooden ones may be used. Put in a stewpan a small
+onion chopped _very fine_, a dessertspoonful of parsley, and a dozen
+mushrooms, also chopped; let these fry one minute in a large
+tablespoonful of butter, add a dessertspoonful (scant) of flour, stir
+all together, then drop in as many fat oysters as are required; they
+must have been blanched in their own liquor and the beards removed; stir
+all round, and add three beaten yolks of eggs, one at a time, taking
+care they do not curdle, but get just thick enough to cling round the
+oyster. String six oysters on each little skewer, basting with the sauce
+wherever it does not adhere; let each skewer cool, then roll the whole
+in beaten eggs and abundant cracker meal, so that the skewer will seem
+to be run through a sausage lengthwise. Fry two minutes in very hot deep
+fat, serve on a napkin; allow one skewer to each person. Two minutes, if
+the fat be sufficiently hot, will fry oysters a pale yellow-brown. They
+should never take longer than this, for oysters harden and shrink if
+overdone in the least. For this reason the use of a pyrometer, when
+possible, saves mistakes and trouble. Such articles as oysters, smelts,
+or any small things, should be fried at a temperature of 380° to 400°.
+It must be remembered that all fried articles darken after they leave
+the frying-kettle, and therefore a very pale yellow becomes a golden
+color on the dish.
+
+_Kabobs_ No. 2.--This is the recipe given by the author of the
+well-known Pytchley Books, and is admirable. Take the beards from as
+many fat, fair-sized oysters as required. You require bacon of which the
+fat is thick enough through to allow of circles being cut from the
+slices as large as the oysters. Cut the bacon very thin, get a cutter
+the size of the oysters, trim them with it, then cut eight circles of
+bacon for six oysters. Put first a piece of bacon, then an oyster, then
+more bacon, on each little skewer, till there are six oysters with a
+piece of bacon between each through the centre and one at each end;
+string them very evenly. Take a very little cayenne on the tip of a
+knife and a saltspoonful of salt; mix this with two beaten eggs to which
+two tablespoonfuls of water have been added. Dip each skewer of kabobs
+in this; let them drip an instant, then lay them on a deep bed of crumbs
+or cracker meal. Cover them thoroughly, shake them, then dip again into
+the egg (if this has become full of crumbs strain it), and again lay
+them in the meal. Shake lightly again, and arrange each skewer of kabobs
+in a frying-basket, and fry two minutes.
+
+I have spoken in the foregoing directions for “crumbing� of using
+_plenty_ of meal, and experience tells me that the rule with those
+unfamiliar with proper methods is to use so little that a plateful would
+be considered _plenty_. With this quantity no good work can be done. You
+need to turn on to a board or dish at least a quart of crumbs, or a
+whole box of cracker meal. This will enable you to smother the article
+until every part is covered, instead of sprinkling a little over and
+under (which generally falls off as fast as put on, and leaves a surface
+yellow with egg in parts), as you must do if a small quantity only is
+used. All the meal that is left must be carefully sifted and put away.
+If the small masses of egg and crumb which will be mixed with it are not
+sifted out the cracker-meal cannot be used again. There must also be
+plenty of egg used for dipping.
+
+_Oysters in Aspic._--For these dariole moulds are needed, or the small
+fire-proof china soufflée cases which imitate paper may be used. A
+dariole is a small straight-sided tin mould, holding rather less than a
+gill. They will be found at large house-furnishing stores, or a tinman
+could easily make them, they being, in fact, like deep corn-muffin pans.
+If they are made to order, avoid getting them too large--three inches
+deep by two across will be large enough. Fill these moulds with aspic
+jelly nearly cold, set them on ice while you prepare the oysters, which
+must be bearded and cooked till plump in butter, but not allowed to
+color. When cool, cut them in half, throw them into some stiff
+béchamel,[77-*] which must be warmed till like thick cream, sprinkle
+with a dust of cayenne; lay the oysters to get cold, that the béchamel
+may harden on them. Scoop the centre very carefully out of the moulds of
+aspic, leaving a half-inch thickness all round, fill the centres with
+the oysters, pour in more aspic, cold, but not set, and put on ice for a
+few hours, or till ready to serve. The aspic from the centres should
+have been preserved and used to chop with more to garnish the dish. Turn
+the moulds out very carefully, and garnish with chopped aspic and
+watercress or parsley.
+
+It is, of course, understood that béchamel sauce, cold, is like
+blanc-mange, and that anything coated with it will be enveloped in white
+jelly, not in a sticky white sauce. If béchamel does not become white
+jelly when cold the stock of which it is made is not stiff enough.
+
+_Lobster in Aspic_ is prepared as for salad, the solid meat cut in dice
+and rolled in mayonnaise, then in chopped chervil or parsley. Then
+proceed exactly as for the oysters.
+
+_Oysters à la Tartare._--The oyster-shells for serving oysters à la
+Tartare must be of good shape and exquisitely clean; therefore, when
+using oysters on the half-shell, always pick out any that may be deep
+yet stand well, and have a good shape; scald and scrub them, and keep
+for use. Scald as many fat oysters as required in their own liquor till
+firm--three minutes at boiling-point will usually do this; the oysters
+must be just plump, yet if underdone they will be flabby. Put them on
+ice, choose as many tiny leaves as you have oysters from the heart of a
+lettuce; they must all be of a size, or trimmed so, and the size only
+just large enough to line the shells without coming over them. Lay a
+leaf on each shell, cut each oyster in half, lay four halves in pyramid
+fashion on the lettuce leaf, and mask the top of each, just before
+serving, with Tartare sauce. Allow two to each person.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[71-*] See No. II.
+
+[77-*] See No. II.
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+VARIOUS CULINARY MATTERS.
+
+
+This little book does not pretend to go into what may be called the
+principles of cooking, except in so far as they are involved in the
+production of all choice cookery; and where it is considered that a
+principle is little known or too little attended to, the effort will be
+made to give it emphasis by reiteration here.
+
+By principles of cooking I mean the simple rules by which roasting,
+boiling, stewing, etc., are successfully accomplished. Any book or
+series of articles written a dozen years ago would have been of no real
+use without these rudiments, but within that period there have been
+cooking-schools started and cookery books written so exceedingly exact
+in directions that it will be unnecessary to repeat them in “Choice
+Cookery,� which does not pretend to include family cooking.
+
+For this reason the cooking of joints of meat will not be entered into.
+Nevertheless there are certain rudiments of cooking which are not dwelt
+on usually in books. They are taught in the cooking-schools, and those
+of my readers who have had the advantage of attending them will not need
+the instruction here given. But I meet with many women who devote much
+time to the art of cooking, and who have taught themselves by book and
+experiment all they know, who yet, when told to chop a small quantity of
+herbs very fine, will struggle and chop almost leaf by leaf in their
+faithful endeavor to carry out the direction. Others, less faithful,
+finding their method chops some parts fine and leaves some leaves almost
+whole, let it go at that, with the reflection that “that _must_ do, as
+it would take all day� to get them all one degree of fineness. So,
+although it may seem almost too trivial a point to need mention, we
+will go into the matter of herb-chopping, lemon-grating, etc., that the
+simple operations may be performed easily and in a very short time.
+
+_To Chop Herbs._--Use the leaves only, never the stems; let them be
+fresh and crisp, or, if wilted, leave them in water for a time. Gather
+the leaves firmly between the thumb and three fingers of the left hand;
+shave them through with a sharp knife as you push them forward under it.
+(The process resembles chaff-cutting by hand machine.) Turn them round;
+gather them up again, and cut across them in the same way; then finish
+by chopping quickly, holding the point of the knife with the left hand
+and bringing it down on the little heap of herbs with the right, always
+gathering them together as fast as the chopping scatters them. Five
+minutes will chop a tablespoonful of mint or parsley almost to pulp. A
+sharp steel knife and a small board must be used, not the
+chopping-bowl.
+
+French books often direct so much _fine herbs_ to be used; English books
+mean the same thing when they call for “sweet herbs,� and a mixture of
+one part marjoram, two parts thyme, and three parts parsley is meant by
+both.
+
+The grating of a lemon is a most simple operation, and it may seem that
+every one must know how to do it; but this is far from being the case.
+As many dishes of curdled custards and sauces are caused by this fact,
+the right way in this case is very important. The object of using grated
+rind of lemon is to obtain the fragrance and flavor, which differ very
+greatly from any extracts, however good. Now the whole of the oil which
+contains this fragrance is at the surface--is, in fact, the yellow
+portion of the rind; therefore this, and only this, must be removed with
+the grater. The white part underneath is bitter, and will cause milk or
+cream to curdle, but it contains no particle of lemon flavor. Yet when
+lemon flavor is called for the lemon is often grated right down to the
+pulp in parts, while the yellow rind is left on in patches.
+
+A lemon should be grated evenly, beginning at the end and working round
+it, using as small a surface of the grater as possible, to prevent
+waste. The habit of turning the lemon as you grate comes as easily as to
+turn an apple under the knife when peeling. Generally twice across the
+grater and back between each turn will remove all the essential oil,
+but, while guarding against grating too deeply, care must be taken to
+remove the whole of the yellow surface. A well-grated lemon should be
+exactly of the same shape as before, have no deep scores into the pith,
+and have an oily-looking surface.
+
+Perhaps before proceeding to the preparation of the combination dishes
+known as made dishes or entrées, a few words may be useful to those
+readers whose ambition to accomplish results may cause them to defeat
+their own ends. To such I would say, go slowly; never attempt the more
+difficult thing until the simpler one is beyond chance of failure. Thus
+in following the instructions in this book the wiser women will have
+accomplished, perhaps, each week one or two things they may have
+selected, and it must not be forgotten the plan of the work is that one
+recipe shall serve as a key to many others.
+
+A great many will very likely have delayed trying to make the sauces
+until the dish for which they will be required is given. This is a
+mistake, because it is less annoying to fail with a sauce with no dish
+depending on it, than, say, when you have decided to have sole _à la
+Villeroi_, the soles being ready, and fail with the sauce.
+
+I hope that no failure will come to any one trying the recipes here
+given, but in some cases, especially in sauces thickened with eggs, a
+second’s diverted attention may cause failure without fault of the cook.
+Therefore it is best to make single experiments when there is no danger
+of being disturbed, and when there is nothing else to be attended to.
+The successful result need never be lost, for in the case of sauces they
+can be reheated the next day in a bain-marie, or pan of hot water; the
+same with the soups, and, indeed, most other things, except soufflées
+and omelets.
+
+But, above all things, never try a recipe for the first time the day you
+wish it to appear perfect on your table; try it long before, and if you
+fail, make the same thing over again, reading the directions very
+carefully; some trifling caution or precaution may have escaped you. No
+one ever learns to draw so simple a thing as a circle who is discouraged
+at the first bad curve, and leaves it for easier lines. Keep on at the
+thing you select to do until you succeed, always choosing _and
+perfecting_ the easiest thing in each class first.
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+ENTRÉES.
+
+
+_Fillet of Beef._--This favorite dish with French and Americans may be
+roasted whole, or cut so as to serve individually. To roast it whole, it
+must be trimmed perfectly round, and either larded or not as taste may
+dictate. A fillet weighing four pounds should be roasted three quarters
+of an hour in a sharp oven. It may then be served _à la Châteaubriand_
+by pouring over it half a pint of the sauce of that name, with
+horseradish sauce, or brown mushroom sauce (brown sauce with mushrooms
+added).
+
+To serve individually, fillets are prepared in the following way: Cut a
+fillet into eight slices three quarters of an inch thick; trim the
+slices into perfect circles, all exactly the same size; flatten them;
+put them in a hot pan, and sauté for seven or eight minutes in two
+ounces of butter; dress them round a dish, and pour over them the sauce
+from which the dish will take its name.
+
+_Filets de Bœuf à la Béarnaise._--Serve with half a pint of Béarnaise
+sauce.
+
+_Filets de BÅ“uf aux Champignons._--Dress as before; leave in the centre
+of the dish room for a mound of stewed mushrooms; pour over the fillets
+half a pint of rich brown sauce. Serve these dishes as soon as cooked:
+the meat is spoiled by waiting.
+
+I have received several letters from readers living where lobster is
+only to be had in cans, asking if there is no substitute for the coral
+in making cardinal sauce. Canned lobster frequently contains a great
+deal of coral, which is as good for coloring and flavoring as the fresh.
+This can only be known, however, before opening, when the cans are of
+glass. The pulp of red beet-root passed through a sieve and added to
+white sauce or mayonnaise gives a beautiful red tint; but the flavor,
+while excellent for a salad or as vegetable sauce, would be unsuitable
+for serving with fish.
+
+_Grenadines of Beef with Mushrooms and Poivrade Sauce._--Take as many
+slices of fillet of beef, cut three quarters of an inch thick, as you
+require. Trim them to a pear shape, three and a half inches long and
+three wide at the broadest part. Lard these with bacon, and put them
+into a sauté pan with a gill of brown sauce and a glass of sherry (half
+the sauce if there are very few grenadines); let them cook gently for
+fifteen minutes. Dissolve a piece of glaze the size of a walnut by
+putting it in a cup which is set in boiling water; when dissolved, take
+up the grenadines, dish them in a circle, and glaze them (a brush is
+properly used for this purpose, but the glaze can be spread with a knife
+dipped in hot water). Fill the centre of the circle with a pyramid of
+small mushrooms mixed with a gill and a half of poivrade sauce.[88-*]
+
+_Fillets of Beef à la Grande-Bretagne._--Cut two pounds of fillet into
+neat slices an inch thick; slit them (with a small French boning-knife
+or small penknife) in such a way that you form a pocket in each the
+mouth or opening of which is smaller than the pocket itself. This can be
+done by laying the fillet flat on a board, laying your hand on the top
+of it, making a slit two inches wide, then with the point of the knife
+enlarging the slit inside, but not the entrance to it. The opening
+should extend half-way through; into this put a force-meat made of
+horseradish sauce[89-*] and macaroni boiled and cut fine. The force-meat
+must be used sparingly, so as not to increase materially the thickness
+of the fillet; fasten the opening of each with a wooden toothpick. Sauté
+these fillets for fifteen minutes; glaze them as directed in last
+recipe; arrange them in a circle, with a pyramid of tiny potato balls in
+the centre. Pour rich brown sauce round.
+
+_Mutton Cutlets à la d’Uxelles._--Cut some cutlets from the neck of
+mutton, leaving two bones to each, trim very carefully, remove the upper
+part of one bone, split the cutlets without separating them at the bone,
+spread some thick d’Uxelles sauce[90-*] inside, fold the cutlets
+together, run a toothpick through them, and broil for four minutes on
+each side over a hot fire. Have a layer of chopped mushrooms stewed in
+butter in the dish, lay the cutlets on it, pour over some d’Uxelles
+sauce, and garnish with truffles, cut in very thin circles.
+
+_Mutton Cutlets à la Milanais._--Take six cutlets from a neck of mutton
+(“French chops,� many butchers term them), mix equal quantities of
+grated Parmesan cheese and cracker meal. Dip the cutlets into rich thick
+brown sauce,[90-†] then into the cracker and Parmesan; shake off loose
+crumbs; dip them now into beaten egg in which a little salt and very
+finely chopped parsley and chives have been mixed, and then dip them a
+second time in the Parmesan and bread crumbs; drop them into a kettle of
+very hot fat; in four minutes they will be done. Do not fry more than
+four at a time, as too many cool the fat. Dish them in a circle with
+spaghetti dressed with Parmesan in the centre.
+
+It seems to me just here that before giving further recipes for fried
+articles I had better make sure that all my readers understand the
+process of frying in deep fat. I have used the word _sauté_ too, and
+although no doubt both these processes are familiar to most readers who
+would be likely to practise “Choice Cookery,� for those who are not
+adepts many of the recipes would be impossible to execute. Frying, once
+understood, is so easy a process one wonders that so few should excel in
+it. To those who are not sure of themselves I recommend practice. A
+couple of hours’ practice and careful observance of rules will enable a
+bright woman to fry successfully.
+
+For this practice you may prepare several different articles and fry one
+after the other--one or two very soft and creamy croquettes, one or two
+breaded articles, especially such as are dipped in thick sauce before
+being crumbed, etc.
+
+The principle on which articles that are very soft and creamy,
+underneath the surface of egg and crumbs, are fried is this: the creamy
+substances, whether rich sauce like d’Uxelles and Villeroi, or the cream
+used to mix croquettes, must always be made of stock that will jelly
+when cold. The sauce is used warm, and the articles are put to chill on
+ice, so that they are in a jellied condition. Now the fat into which
+they are plunged must be so hot that it sets the coating of egg and
+crumbs, which forms a thin shell, as it were, before the jelly has had
+time to melt; the shell once formed, the interior cooks in the intense
+heat very quickly. If the fat were not hot enough, croquettes would go
+all to pieces, and articles coated with sauce would lose the better
+part of it.
+
+To fry, you require a stewpan or iron kettle; those called Scotch
+kettles are best, as they set into the range readily. A frying-pan is
+only useful for sautéing in little fat. Articles to be fried must be
+immersed in fat, and no frying-pan is deep enough to do this safely. Put
+two to three pounds of clarified dripping or lard into the kettle, and
+let it get very hot. This will be after it ceases to sputter--some time
+after, perhaps; but you must now begin to watch for smoke to rise from
+the _centre_. Have near you some little squares of bread crumb; drop one
+in from time to time; only when it colors _immediately_ is the fat hot
+enough. At this point no time must be lost, and your frying begins.
+
+Of course you will have the articles you intend to fry right at hand.
+You will also need a large dish, in which you lay common butcher’s
+wrapping-paper (often called “kitchen paper�) and a perforated
+skimmer--some like a frying-basket, and for very small things it is an
+assistance; but for croquettes, cutlets, etc., it is not necessary: they
+can be laid on the skimmer and dropped in the fat.
+
+The easiest and safest way to fry is to use a cooking thermometer
+(pyrometers or frimometers they are sometimes called), and let the fat
+be 380° for croquettes, oysters, and articles that only require two
+minutes’ cooking; 360° for cutlets and heavier articles.
+
+The time required for articles to cook in the frying-kettle seems
+astonishingly short. For instance, a breaded chop will be cooked to a
+medium degree in two and a half minutes, well done in three minutes; but
+it must be remembered the heat is intense. Croquettes must never be left
+longer than two minutes, while whitebait (which, however, require
+special instruction to fry without getting them into a cake) need less
+than a minute. Potatoes require longer than most things; but the fat
+need not be cooler at first, as would seem necessary, because they are
+so full of water, even when well dried, that they cool the fat rapidly.
+
+_Sautéing_ (a word that would be expressive of the process in English
+would be a boon to writers on cooking).--The process generally meant by
+“frying� is really sautéing; yet so general has been the misconception
+among all but professed cooks, that one has to take the precaution in
+giving directions for frying to say, “Fry _in deep_ fat.� It ought to be
+understood that to fry is to _immerse_ in hot fat. If some term suitable
+for kitchen use could be found, half the difficulty would be over. In
+old English books a very fair translation was used; they told you to
+“toss the article in butter,� but though it rendered sauté “jump�
+fairly, it did not express the process. There is neither tossing nor
+jumping about it, unless an occasional shake to the pan be called so;
+and as “flat frying,� “dry frying,� are awkward, the sooner we boldly
+take sauté into common use, and let it become a kitchen word as familiar
+as fricassee (which surely must have been very unfamiliar once), the
+better.
+
+To sauté--although every Bridget or Gretchen fancies she can do
+it--requires nicety and care to do it well, and is far more difficult
+than “frying in deep fat.� The pan requires to be hot, also the fat or
+butter used, which should cover the bottom of the pan; a bright fire is
+required. Things that take long to cook require more fat than those that
+require but a short time. Effort must be made to adjust the proportion,
+as adding cold fat prevents browning. Veal cutlets and many other things
+are far better sautéd than fried. The articles sautéd require to be
+watched that they do not burn; yet they must not be too often turned, or
+they will not brown--except, of course, such things as are chopped,
+which require frequent stirring up.
+
+In speaking of chilling articles coated with sauce to be fried, I
+omitted to give the caution that, in the case of meats, care must be
+taken not to leave them long enough to freeze the meat.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[88-*] See No. IV.
+
+[89-*] See No. V.
+
+[90-*] See No. II.
+
+[90-†] See No. IV.
+
+
+
+
+XI.
+
+ENTRÉES OF MUTTON CUTLETS OR CHOPS.
+
+
+_Mutton Cutlets à la Duchesse._--Take as many cutlets (or French chops)
+as required. Stew them in stock, with a small bouquet of herbs, very
+gently until they are perfectly tender. Take them up, skim the stock,
+and strain it; return to a small saucepan, and reduce the liquid to a
+glaze; dip each cutlet in the glaze and lay it aside. Have ready what
+cooks now call a “panada,� made of a gill of thick white sauce, two
+yolks of eggs stirred into it and allowed to approach the boiling-point,
+but not to boil (this, of course, must be done in a double boiler), or
+the eggs will curdle; chop a dessertspoonful of parsley very fine;
+parboil and chop also very fine three onions; pound thoroughly in a
+mortar eight mushrooms; stir these all into the thick sauce, with a
+saltspoonful of salt and a quarter one of pepper. Roll each cutlet in
+this force-meat (if found too stiff to adhere properly, moisten with a
+little cream or a little liquor from the mushrooms), lay them on a
+fire-proof dish, and cover with bread crumbs and bits of butter. Bake
+them until they are a golden brown. Serve with brown Soubise sauce.
+
+_Lamb Cutlets en Concombre._--Trim and cut six lamb cutlets three
+quarters of an inch thick, flatten them a little to make them of equal
+size and thickness; flour them, and sauté them in butter five minutes.
+The fire must be sharp, because they must be a nice brown on both sides.
+Arrange them round an entrée dish, with a gill of brown sauce poured
+outside, and a pint of fillets of cucumber in the centre.
+
+_To Prepare Fillets of Cucumber._--Cut firm fresh cucumbers lengthwise
+through the middle, remove seeds and all soft parts, cut into inch
+lengths and into olive shapes all the same size. Put them into a
+stewpan with an ounce of butter, a pinch of pepper, a saltspoonful of
+sugar and one of salt, and let them stew until quite tender, without
+acquiring any color. To do this the stewpan must be closely covered and
+frequently shaken.
+
+_Lamb Cutlets with a Purée of Mushrooms._--Trim and cook and serve the
+cutlets as in the foregoing recipe, only in place of the cucumbers make
+a purée of mushrooms in the following way: stew half a pint of button
+mushrooms and part of their liquor in half a pint of white sauce until
+they are very tender (taking care the sauce does not burn), pound them
+in a mortar, then force them through a vegetable strainer; then add
+enough of the white sauce in which they were stewed to make the purée
+the substance of very thick cream.
+
+_Cold Lamb Cutlets in Mint Jelly._--Roast a piece of what butchers call
+the rack of lamb, which is really the neck and ribs. Let it get cold;
+cut from it six cutlets, which trim just as if they were uncooked; that
+is to say, remove meat and fat from the bone, and scrape it. Mask each
+of the cutlets in mint jelly[101-*] warmed enough to be half fluid.
+Arrange very carefully round an entrée dish when they are perfectly set,
+so that the jelly will not come off. Have a Russian salad in the centre.
+
+_How to Prepare the Salad._--To prepare this you require two or three
+small vegetable cutters of pretty shape; use them to trim carrots, white
+turnips, and cucumbers into small, attractive forms; boil these in
+separate waters till tender; also green peas, sprays of cauliflower, and
+very tiny young string-beans. Throw each vegetable as it is cooked into
+ice-cold water to keep the color. Have some red beet-root boiled
+_before_ it is cut into shapes. Use equal quantities of each vegetable.
+Arrange them with peas in the centre, and the others in circles round,
+studying the effect of color; then dress, but do not mask, them with
+green mayonnaise.
+
+At seasons when materials for Russian salad cannot readily be obtained
+the chops may be served with a centre of cucumber salad, or one made of
+the small white leaves of lettuce.
+
+_Cutlets Chaudfroid à la Russe._--For this cold dish mutton cutlets are
+used. They must be of the finest quality, and from mutton not newly
+killed. Cut as many cutlets as required, trim, and scrape the bone.
+Braise for an hour in a moderate oven till the meat is very tender,
+remove, and press between two dishes until they are cold. Then trim each
+cutlet into perfect shape. Boil a quart of strong stock (which already
+jellies) down to less than half a pint; dip each chop into this glaze
+once or twice, till they look “varnished.� You now require a pint of
+stiff aspic jelly; turn it out of the bowl, cut one or two slices a
+quarter of an inch thick from it, to be cut into shapes (or croûtons)
+with a cutter to garnish the cutlets. Chop the rest of the aspic, lay
+it round the dish, and the cutlets against it, with the croûtons of
+aspic to form the outer edge. The centre must be filled with a Russian
+salad, in this case stirred up with very thick mayonnaise, instead of
+being formally arranged. The mayonnaise must be only sufficient to dress
+the vegetables, none to run into the other materials, and beet-root must
+be added last, as it discolors the sauce if stirred up in it.
+
+
+ENTRÉES OF SWEETBREADS.
+
+_Sweetbreads à la Suprême._--Take two plump sweetbreads, lay them an
+hour in strong salt and water, then boil them for ten minutes in fresh
+water; put them between two plates to flatten till cold. Cut off all the
+gristle and loose skin from underneath; put them to stew _very gently_
+in half a pint of good-flavored stock. Take them up, drain well, and
+stew them in half a pint of sauce suprême, with a dozen small mushrooms,
+for ten minutes.
+
+_Sweetbreads with Oysters._--Prepare the sweetbreads as in the foregoing
+recipe, quarter them, and put them in a stewpan with a gill of white
+stock, the strained liquor from two dozen oysters, a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and a suspicion of nutmeg. Put two ounces of
+butter in a stewpan over the fire, stir into it one tablespoonful of
+fine flour; let them bubble together, stirring the while, one minute.
+When the sweetbreads have been simmering twenty minutes, pour the gravy
+from them to the sauce; stir quickly till smooth. If thicker than very
+thick cream, add a little more stock. In five minutes add the oysters.
+Keep _at boiling-point_, but not boiling, till the oysters are firm and
+plump. Do not leave them in the sauce a minute beyond this, or they will
+begin to shrink. Take them and the sweetbreads up, and if the sauce is
+too thin to bear a wineglass of cream, boil it rapidly down till _very
+thick_; then skim, and just before pouring over the sweetbreads stir in
+a wineglass of thick cream. If it goes in earlier it may curdle.
+
+It has been explained before, but I repeat it here, that there must
+never be too much sauce, however good, to any dish, and that the
+consistency is most important: it must be thick enough to mask a spoon,
+yet run from it freely. Nothing can be worse than a dab of white mush
+being served as sauce, unless it be a quantity of thin, milky soup
+floating on every plate. This is where the happy medium must be struck.
+It is perfectly easy to give exact proportions to produce certain
+degrees of thickness, and this has been done in the chapters on sauces;
+but where these sauces are used as a medium in which to cook, for
+instance, sweetbreads, a certain amount of liquid must be added to
+prevent burning. Now it is impossible to say how fast this added liquid
+will diminish if the simmering is as slow as it should be, it may lose
+hardly at all, in which case the articles stewed must be taken out, and
+a few minutes’ hard boiling given to evaporate the liquid and bring the
+sauce back to the proper point.
+
+_Sweetbreads in Cases._--Prepare two sweetbreads as directed in the
+foregoing recipes. Put them in a stewpan with a thin slice of fat boiled
+ham, half a carrot, half a turnip, and a small onion, all cut small, and
+laid as a bed under the sweetbreads; put in a gill of broth, a bouquet
+of herbs, and half a saltspoonful of salt, with a pinch of pepper. Let
+them stew, closely covered, one hour, turning them after the first
+half-hour. When done, take them up and drain them. When cold, cover with
+thick d’Uxelles sauce; sprinkle thickly with very fine bread crumbs.
+Make two rough paper cases, butter each liberally, and very carefully
+lay each sweetbread in one, crumbed side uppermost. Put them in a quick
+oven till pale brown. Have ready proper sweetbread cases, slip them
+neatly into them, and serve.
+
+These are excellent cold, in which event they should not be shifted from
+the rough case until ready to serve.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[101-*] For recipe, see No. V.
+
+
+
+
+XII.
+
+ON THE MANNER OF PREPARING CROQUETTES, CUTLETS, KROMESKIES, RISSOLES,
+AND CIGARETTES.
+
+
+Although these ever-popular dishes are all or may all be prepared from
+one mixture, there is a difference in the manner of using it which I
+will here explain.
+
+_Croquettes_ are made from a soft creamy mixture chilled on ice till
+firm enough to mould, then simply dipped into egg and crumbs and fried
+in very hot fat.
+
+_Cutlets_ are the same (of course fancy cutlets are meant, not the
+French chops, so called), only they are shaped to imitate a real cutlet,
+with a little bone inserted; or, in the case of lobster cutlets, a small
+claw is used to simulate the chop bone. Many only stick a sprig of
+parsley where the bone should be, to keep up the fiction.
+
+_Kromeskies_ are rolls of the same mixture enveloped in very thin
+slices (hardly thicker than paper) of fat larding pork; a small
+toothpick holds the pork in place. The rolls are then egged, crumbed,
+and fried.
+
+_Rissoles_ are the same thing, only rather easier to prepare, being
+rolled in very thin pastry instead of pork.
+
+_Cigarettes_, the newest variation of the favorite entrée, and most
+dainty of them all in appearance, are thin rolls of croquette mixture
+(or, better still, quenelle meat) not thicker than a small cigar. These
+are rolled in pastry, thoroughly deadened, pinched very securely, and
+fried a very pale brown.
+
+As the manner of making the mixture is about the same for all kinds of
+meats, fish, or game, varying only in flavor--a little wine, a little
+onion, or sweet herbs taking the place of the mushrooms in some cases--I
+will give exact directions for making sweetbread cutlets; chicken, game,
+or fish may be substituted for the sweetbreads, naming them accordingly.
+The ham may always be omitted where the flavor is objected to. For
+those who like it, it adds very much to sweetbreads, but would be out of
+place with game, which should depend on its own individual flavor.
+
+_Cutlets of Sweetbreads._--Soak a pair of sweetbreads in salt and water
+for an hour--longer if there is much blood about them; then cook them
+half an hour in stock. Drain them and let them get cold. Trim off all
+superfluous fat and gristle; chop them with one ounce of lean boiled ham
+to each pair of large sweetbreads, and half a can of mushrooms, a small
+teaspoonful of salt, the sixth of one of pepper. Put an ounce of flour
+in a small thick saucepan with an ounce of butter; stir them together
+over the fire until they bubble; then add a half-pint of liquid
+consisting of a gill of stiff jellied stock and a gill of thick cream;
+stir till they boil and form a smooth sauce; mix the sweetbread mixture
+with the sauce.
+
+The mixture should be a soft, creamy mass, not in any way so stiff as
+sausage-meat, or so as to remain in a heap without spreading; when
+poured on a plate, it should be of a consistency that will _slowly_
+settle, yet there must not be any liquid whatever. On this question of
+consistency depends the quality of the croquettes, cutlets, etc., made
+from it. If too stiff, they will be dry and only a superior sort of hash
+ball. What you have to aim at is a croquette or cutlet that will ooze
+out of the thin shell of egg and crumb when pressed with a fork. Success
+in attaining this can always be secured by taking care to moisten the
+minced meat with a sauce made of _very stiff jelly_ in the proportion of
+half a pint of liquid (the melted jelly and cream) and one ounce each of
+flour and butter. This will mix a pint of sweetbread and mushrooms, or
+rather less of dry meat, such as the breast of chicken, veal, etc.
+
+I dwell on this point because this class of entrées is always popular,
+and if the consistency is once well understood, success is certain to
+follow.
+
+When the mixture is poured into shallow dishes or plates, a piece of
+buttered paper should be laid over them, and then they should be placed
+on ice until quite firm. When ready, cut small pieces of the mixture,
+make them into shapes as nearly resembling a French chop as you can,
+using a very little cracker meal should they stick to your hands. Have
+before you a large dish of cracker meal and the yolks of two eggs beaten
+with two small tablespoonfuls of water, cover each cutlet thoroughly
+with egg, then with meal, gently patting them to make the meal adhere;
+insert anything you please to represent the bone (turkey ribs may be
+boiled white and kept for this purpose). Cutlets require to be dropped
+into very hot fat, and taken up within two minutes. Consult directions
+for frying in former chapter.
+
+Sweetbread croquettes are simply made into cork or pear shapes, never
+large, instead of cutlets. When the white meat of chicken replaces half
+the sweetbread, they are called Cutlets, or Croquettes, à la Reine.
+
+Make no attempt to mould croquettes or cutlets until the mixture is firm
+enough to cut; then handle very quickly, make into proper forms, finish
+them either as cutlets or what you wish, and let them remain in a cold
+place for an hour or two before cooking; this last direction may not be
+always possible, and to an expert is not necessary, but when time can be
+given the amateur should always plan to do it.
+
+But though in experienced hands it is possible (though not so easy) to
+make croquettes and fry them as soon as breaded, do not be led to
+believe that you can dispense with putting the mixture on the ice the
+first time. I remember a young lady who was very proud of her croquettes
+telling me she never found it necessary to chill the mixture; she could
+secure perfect shape without. I asked to see the process, and decided in
+my own mind that she must go widely from the directions, and have her
+material as stiff as hash; but I found she solved the difficulty in a
+different way: she simply worked in quantities of cracker meal, using it
+like flour. Of course the croquettes were spoiled, although it was true
+they kept their shape, and I do not think the young lady realized at all
+that she was changing and impoverishing the preparation altogether.
+
+_Braised Sweetbreads._--Take a pair of sweetbreads, lay in salt and
+water for an hour, then blanch. Press slightly between two dishes; when
+cold, remove all skin, fat, and gristle; cut up very fine a small
+carrot, a turnip, and an onion; put them in a stewpan with the
+sweetbreads, pour over them a pint of stock, lay a piece of buttered
+paper over them, and braise carefully for half an hour. Take them out of
+the stewpan, put them in a small meat-pan, boil the liquor rapidly a
+couple of minutes, then baste the sweetbreads with it several times; put
+them in a quick oven to brown; serve on slices of fried bread, pour half
+a pint of Spanish sauce round, and garnish with mushrooms.
+
+_Tartlettes of Chicken._--Cut six ounces of the breast of a cooked
+chicken into very small pieces, chop up one truffle, twelve mushrooms,
+and two ounces of lean boiled ham; stir them into a gill of white sauce.
+Butter thickly nine dariole moulds, line them neatly with quenelle
+meat,[114-*] of which you will require half a pound, fill the centre
+carefully with the mixed chicken, cover the top carefully with quenelle
+meat, and steam for twenty minutes; dish on a circle of spinach, pour
+béchamel sauce over and round, fill the centre of the dish with peas or
+mixed vegetables.
+
+_Chicken à la Hollandaise._--Take out the breast-bone of a large _young_
+fowl, and fill the space with the following force-meat: half a pint of
+fine bread-crumbs, an ounce and a half of butter, a small boiled onion
+chopped, and a dozen oysters cut into small pieces; a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper; bind together with an egg, sew up the fowl,
+and truss for roasting. Make a nice batter, as for fine fritters, and
+when the fowl has been in the oven half an hour, pour part of the batter
+over it; when dry and beginning to brown, pour more, until it is thickly
+coated and a nice brown; baste often; cut up the chicken, and serve with
+Allemande sauce and lemon.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[114-*] See directions in No. IV.
+
+
+
+
+XIII.
+
+PATTIES.
+
+
+The directions for making one kind will serve for patties generally. In
+cities the cases are very easily bought, but where they have to be made
+at home, only one who is already an expert in making puff-paste should
+attempt them.
+
+Patties when served as an entrée should be quite small, or half of them
+will certainly be left on the plates.
+
+Roll puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick for each patty, cut three
+circles from it, moisten the surface of two very slightly with water,
+place one on the other, then with a sharp penknife cut a circle nearly
+through the third round, leaving a margin of one third of an inch; lay
+this round carefully on the other two; brush the top with white of egg
+(be sure not to touch the sides), and bake in a very quick oven. Patties
+must be watched, and turned if they show signs of rising unevenly. When
+they are a fine yellow-brown take them out, and leave five minutes for
+them to cool slightly, then with a penknife or a boning-knife carefully
+remove the top formed by the smaller circle you marked, and which (if
+the paste was very light and the oven in good condition) will probably
+have risen out of the centre. Be careful in handling these covers, for
+while warm they are very brittle. With a coffee-spoon remove the
+half-cooked dough from the centre of the patty, taking care, however, to
+leave sufficient thickness of inner crust to prevent the sauce from
+oozing through.
+
+The filling for patties can be made before it is needed; but when that
+is done, it must be made quite hot before it is put into the cases, as,
+if it were put in cold, the pastry would burn before the inside became
+warm.
+
+_Dresden Patty Cases._--These make a very pretty kind of patty when
+puff-paste is not to be had, and even when it is are a desirable
+variety. They are made from fine light baker’s bread. Cut slices an inch
+and a half thick, then with a biscuit cutter about two inches in
+diameter cut circles from these slices, and with another cutter, a size
+smaller, press half-way through each. You will now have pieces of bread
+the size and shape of patties. Beat four eggs; mix with a pint of milk
+and a saltspoonful of salt; pour this into a shallow pan, and stand the
+bread patties in it. The amount of milk and eggs must of course depend
+on the number of patties; the proportion named is enough for six small
+ones. The patties must remain steeping until they are thoroughly soaked;
+they must be carefully turned upside down when the lower part is
+sufficiently steeped. The time required will depend on the quality of
+the bread, but one hour will generally suffice. The bread must be
+thoroughly penetrated by the custard, be almost as moist as mush, yet
+be in no danger (with careful handling) of breaking. When sufficiently
+steeped, take each one on a cake turner and lay it on a drainer. (They
+may be prepared some hours before they are needed for cooking.) When
+quite drained, baste each one carefully with beaten egg till every part
+is coated, then smother it in cracker meal. Gently pat it to make it
+adhere, then slip the patty on to a dish till you are ready to fry. Do
+not attempt to move the patties with the hand or a spoon, but with a
+flat skimmer or cake turner.
+
+When prepared as directed, make three pounds of lard _very hot_ in a
+deep frying-kettle,[119-*] place three of the patties on a fine wire
+frying-basket, and fry brown. The fat should be excessively hot, as the
+patties, being full of cold custard, will not burn, and will rapidly
+cool it. They should be a delicate brown in six or seven minutes. Let
+the fat come back to the original intense heat before putting in the
+other patties. When they are fried, remove the centre you marked with
+the smaller cutter with a sharp thin knife and small teaspoon, leaving
+the sides about half an inch thick. They are now ready to fill. If the
+patties are just right, the inside you remove should be of a
+custard-like texture, _not_ like sopped bread: indeed, in eating them,
+the bread should not be easily detected. These patties are very
+delicious filled with any of the usual fillings, or, for dessert, with
+stiff preserve. They have no covers, consequently the filling should be
+piled high without allowing the sauce to run over, and garnished with
+parsley or water-cress.
+
+_Sweetbread Patties._--Soak two very white sweetbreads in salt and water
+one hour; parboil for twenty minutes; then let them cool; remove the
+skin, fat, and gristle; cut them into half-inch dice, and lay them aside
+while you prepare the following sauce: Put a gill of strong white stock
+into a small saucepan with a gill of mushroom liquor (and a dozen small
+mushrooms cut in four if approved) to boil. In another saucepan cook an
+ounce of flour and one of butter together, stirring till they bubble;
+pour the two gills of stock quickly to it, and stir till smooth. Season
+with half a teaspoonful of salt and very little pepper; lay in the
+sweetbreads, and let them stew twenty minutes. Strain them off from the
+sauce, which boil down (stirring constantly to prevent burning) till
+very thick; then add a gill of thick fresh cream. The sauce should now
+be thick enough to mask the spoon _very heavily_; pour it over the
+sweetbreads, and stir together. This is now ready for filling the
+patties. If mushrooms are not liked they may be omitted, the liquor
+replaced by a gill of stock and a teaspoonful of white wine.
+
+_Oyster Patties._--Take a dozen and a half Blue Points, scald them in
+their own liquor, but do not leave them a moment after they reach the
+boiling-point; strain the liquor from them; cut each oyster in four. Put
+a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter into a small saucepan over
+the fire, stir them together until they bubble; then pour to them half a
+pint of the strained liquor of the oysters, or part liquor and part
+stock. Stir continually, and let the sauce boil very thick; then lay in
+the oysters, and simmer half a minute. The amount of seasoning required
+will depend on the saltness of the oysters, but a saltspoonful of salt
+will probably not be too much, a little pepper, and a teaspoonful of
+essence of anchovies--just enough to make the sauce a delicate
+salmon-color. For the last thing, stir in one small teaspoonful of lemon
+juice. The consistency of the sauce for all patties should be that of
+very thick double cream. When it is not thick enough, it can always be
+reduced by boiling down, taking care not to boil the meat or oysters,
+etc., in it.
+
+_Chicken Patties._--Take the breast of a boiled chicken, cut it into
+dice; use half a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled to make the
+sauce. Put this broth in a small saucepan with a teaspoonful of lean
+boiled ham chopped a little (take care there is not a particle of the
+outside of the ham, or it may impart a smoky flavor); let the ham simmer
+in the broth while you melt together a tablespoonful of flour and one of
+butter; when they bubble, and the broth has been boiled down to about
+one half, _strain_ the latter into a half-pint measure, fill up with
+cream, and stir this quickly to the flour and butter. When the sauce is
+thick and smooth, put in the chicken; keep the mixture at boiling-point
+five minutes, then set the saucepan in another of boiling water, and
+stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs; only just let them thicken; then
+remove from the fire, and use for filling the patty cases. A teaspoonful
+of sherry is often added to the sauce. If this filling is not used while
+hot, it must be reheated in a double boiler and watched, or the eggs
+will curdle; or the filling may be prepared and the eggs added after it
+is reheated.
+
+_Bouchées_ of any kind are simply patties made very small indeed--for
+this reason the filling is always _chopped_ instead of being cut into
+dice.
+
+The essence of anchovy mentioned is a most useful sauce for fish, and
+can be bought at any large grocery.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[119-*] See full directions for frying in No. X.
+
+
+
+
+XIV.
+
+ENTRÉES.
+
+
+In an earlier chapter I gave directions for quenelles as an adjunct to
+soups and for garnishing. Used in this way, they are only a revival of
+an old French fashion, coarsely imitated in the benighted days of
+Anglo-Saxon cookery by the English “force-meat balls.� Lately, however,
+not only are quenelles a great feature in high-class cookery as
+additions to made dishes, but they are a most fashionable and delicious
+entrée, and replace with great advantage the too-frequent croquette.
+
+To prepare quenelle meat for entrées.
+
+_Mode No. 1._--To make quenelle meat, a mortar is indispensable, as it
+must be pounded to a pulp that will go through a sieve, and I have known
+a persevering woman grate the breast of chicken on a large grater, but
+this is very slow work. Take the white meat from a large, young,
+uncooked chicken, and remove all skin, fat, and sinew. Melt together
+over the fire a scant tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; when
+they are thick and smooth, stir in a gill of boiling water quickly. This
+should now be a thick paste; put it away to cool. Take half as much
+butter as you have of chicken, and half the quantity of paste
+(technically called panada) that you have of butter. Put the paste into
+a mortar; pound it well; add the butter; pound again till smooth; add
+the chicken, cut up very small, and pound until the whole forms a smooth
+pulp. Add one whole egg and the yolks of three, the third of a
+saltspoonful of white pepper (salt must depend on whether the butter
+seasons sufficiently). Work all well together, stir in half a gill of
+thick cream, and pass the whole through a wire sieve. Put the whole on
+ice to get firm. The quenelles should be about the size of a small egg
+flattened; shape with two tablespoons dipped in flour. Have ready a
+frying-pan with boiling water in which is a saltspoonful of salt, lay
+each quenelle carefully in, and poach for ten minutes. The water must
+boil very gently. Drain on a sieve; serve with mushroom or tomato sauce.
+Have a little dried parsley and grated tongue or ham, and scatter
+alternately on each quenelle.
+
+_Mode No. 2._--One pound of lean veal cutlet; pound it thoroughly in a
+mortar; then rub it through a sieve, or it may be forced (_after_ it is
+pounded) through a vegetable strainer. Steep a pound of bread crumb in
+tepid water; wring it in a cloth to get rid of the moisture; put it in a
+stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter and a pinch of salt. Stir it over
+the fire until it ceases to stick to the pan and forms a smooth paste.
+Place it between two plates to cool. This is called bread panada. Put
+into a mortar twelve ounces of the prepared veal, six ounces of fresh
+butter, and eight ounces of the panada. Pound all well together; mix in
+gradually one whole egg, two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and the
+yolks of four more eggs, a scant teaspoonful of salt, and a
+quarter-saltspoonful of pepper. When this is all pounded into a smooth,
+compact mass, put it into a bowl and place it on ice until required for
+use. Mould and poach as described in last recipe.
+
+Great care is required in cooking quenelles, as if they are overdone
+they become tough; ten minutes is enough for those the size of a small
+egg. Before moulding the whole, poach a small one, break it open, and
+ascertain if it is smooth, light, yet firm. They should melt in the
+mouth. If they are at all tough, add a little more cream to the mixture,
+unless the toughness comes from over-boiling, which you must guard
+against. Very elaborate quenelles are made with a core of dark meat,
+made by chopping up ham, tongue, or truffles very fine, and inserting
+it in the centre while forming the quenelles. Always serve quenelles
+with tomato, mushroom, or rich Spanish sauce. Dish in a circle, and fill
+the centre with spinach, green peas, or a macédoine of mixed vegetables.
+
+The mode of preparing all quenelles is by one of the two methods just
+given, but they may be made of any kind of game, or the backs of hares
+or rabbits. Quenelles of salmon, lobster, or other fish must of course
+be served with appropriate fish sauce.
+
+_Timbale of Chicken à la Champenois._--Chop a small slice of lean boiled
+ham, weighing about two ounces, put into a saucepan with four chopped
+mushrooms, four truffles, and an ounce of butter; stir in a moderate
+dessertspoonful of corn-starch and half a pint of stock and a gill of
+sherry; let this slowly simmer until reduced to one half. Skim off the
+fat, then stir in the finely chopped breast of a large chicken or of two
+small ones, six small pickled gherkins, a sprig of parsley, and six
+anchovies which have been soaked in milk. Make all hot over a slow fire,
+but do not let them boil. Line a mould with light puff-paste, pour the
+mixture into it, and bake one hour; turn out and serve very hot. Garnish
+with fried parsley.
+
+_Scallops of Chicken à la Périgord._--This dish may conveniently be made
+when the white meat of chicken is required for other purposes.
+
+Bone the legs of two large chickens; take half a pound of veal, a
+quarter of a pound of fat salt pork; pound both in a mortar, then pass
+through a sieve; add to this two tablespoonfuls of minced tongue, six
+truffles, and half a dozen button mushrooms, the yolks of two eggs, a
+saltspoonful of salt, and a _very little_ cayenne. Mix well. Stuff the
+legs of the fowls with this. Sewing them up neatly, wrap each up in
+buttered paper; put them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a
+carrot, turnip, and small onion cut up; add three quarters of a pint of
+brown stock. Put the stewpan in the oven, baste well, and cook gently
+one hour. When cooked, have ready a mound of spinach. Take a _very
+sharp_ knife, cut the legs in slices so as to make circles like slices
+of sausage; strain off the gravy. Cook together a dessertspoonful of
+butter and flour; when they bubble, pour the strained gravy to it, with
+a gill of sherry and a little salt and pepper; stir till smooth; boil
+till as thick as cream. Dress the scallops of chicken in a circle round
+the spinach, pour the sauce round all, and insert bits of truffle and of
+tongue between the scallops.
+
+_Chicken Soufflé._--Pound three ounces of the white meat of cooked
+chicken as fine as possible; mix with it half a pint of cream and three
+well beaten eggs, a few button mushrooms finely chopped, a saltspoonful
+of salt, a sixth of one of pepper, a dust of cayenne, and a speck of
+powdered mace. Pour the mixture in a well-buttered mould, tie a cloth
+over it, and steam it half an hour. It must stand quite upright in the
+steamer. Turn out on a hot dish, and pour any rich brown sauce preferred
+around it. This soufflé may be made of sweetbreads, or half and half. If
+individual soufflés are preferred, butter as many dariole moulds as the
+mixture will fill; lay at the bottom of each something by way of
+garnish--a little star or disk of tongue or ham for some, of truffle for
+others, of green gherkin for others--so that when turned out the top of
+the soufflés will show spots of color. Half fill the moulds, and steam
+twenty minutes.
+
+Soufflés of all kinds depend for excellence on being served the moment
+they are ready, and on the steam being kept up all the time they are
+cooking. When baked the oven must be very steady.
+
+_Fritot of Chicken._--Take a cold chicken, cut it into small neat
+joints, season rather highly with salt and pepper, strew over them a
+small grated onion (or one very finely chopped), and a dessertspoonful
+of chopped parsley. Cover them with oil, and then squeeze over them the
+juice of a lemon. Turn the pieces now and then, and let them remain
+until they have absorbed the flavor. Meanwhile make a batter of four
+tablespoonfuls of flour and about eight of milk, or as much as will make
+a thick smooth batter; stir into it a wineglass of brandy and an egg,
+the whole beaten to a high froth. Leave this batter in a warm place an
+hour before using, dip the pieces of chicken into it, and fry in very
+hot, deep fat. Serve piled high on a dish garnished with fried parsley.
+
+
+
+
+XV.
+
+ENTRÉES.--_Continued._
+
+
+_Cigarettes à la Reine._--These are the newest development of the
+rissole and croquette. They require strict attention to details to
+secure perfect form. Roll puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick; prick
+it all over--this is to deaden it; roll it now till it is no thicker
+than cartridge-paper. Cut it with a sharp knife dipped in flour into
+strips about two inches and a half wide and about the length of a cigar;
+lay on each strip a roll of chicken quenelle meat that is very firm, and
+the roll not thicker than a lady’s slender forefinger; be careful that
+the meat reaches nearly the whole length of the paste, yet leaves a
+margin for closing, as the least oozing will spoil the appearance.
+Moisten the edges of the paste all round with white of egg; fold the
+paste over half an inch; be very careful to see that it adheres
+thoroughly; then pinch the ends. Roll them gently with a cool hand on
+the floured board to round them without pressure, taper off the ends
+cigar fashion. If they are softening, lay them on a floured plate on ice
+to get firm; then roll them in egg and very finely sifted cracker meal.
+You may roll or improve the shape, if there is any irregularity, while
+crumbing them. Remember what you aim to imitate is a cigar. The great
+danger for the first time is getting them too large; they must therefore
+be very slender. Fry in deep fat just as rissoles; serve on a napkin,
+log-house fashion. These dainties, as will have been seen, have a large
+amount of butter, and soften in a warm room; they must therefore be made
+in a cold room, and if set on ice some hours before cooking will be much
+easier to fry without bending or twisting.
+
+_Cigarettes à la Chasseur_ are, as the name indicates, made of game, in
+exactly the same way as the last recipe.
+
+_Lobster Quenelles._--Prepare with bread panada as directed for quenelle
+meat. Poach and drain them. Then dish in a circle with thick Hollandaise
+sauce in the centre and round them.
+
+_Chicken, Turtle Fashion._--This requires a pullet or young hen about
+six months old. Bone the bird; stuff with a force-meat made of four
+parts minced veal, two parts chopped hard eggs, a half part lean boiled
+ham, two parts mushrooms, and two parts _pâté de foie gras_. First make
+the veal and ham hot in a little butter, then add the mushrooms and
+_foie gras_; moisten with stock or mushroom liquor, and _gently simmer_
+five minutes. Stir in two beaten yolks of eggs and a teaspoonful of
+lemon juice. Season with a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of white
+pepper, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg, grated. Stuff the fowl with this
+mixture; sew it up with trussing-needle and string; turn the skin of the
+neck half over the head, and cut off part of the comb, which gives the
+appearance of the turtle’s head. Scald and skin four chickens’ feet;
+cut off the claws, and insert two where the wings ought to be and two in
+the thighs, so as to look like turtles’ feet. Put in a stewpan a
+tablespoonful of chopped boiled ham, an onion, and a small carrot cut
+up, with a tablespoonful of butter; let them brown very slightly, add
+half a pint of stock, skim it, lay the fowl in this stock, and stew
+gently for an hour and a half to two hours, or even longer, according to
+size. When quite tender take up the fowl, cut and remove the string with
+which it is sewn, lay it on its back on a dish, garnish the breast with
+sliced truffles cut in fancy shapes, place a crawfish tail to represent
+the turtle’s tail. When eaten hot serve velouté sauce. This is an
+excellent dish cold garnished with aspic.
+
+_Baked Ravioli._--Four ounces of veal, six ounces of butter, three
+ounces of lean sausage-meat, a teaspoonful of mixed sweet herbs, a
+little salt and pepper. Pound all in a mortar; when smooth, pound
+separately a gill of spinach that has been boiled till just tender
+without losing color, and a quarter of a pound of cream cheese or rich
+cottage cheese, which must be squeezed in a cloth to remove all the
+milk. When smooth, pound all together, and stir in the yolks of two
+eggs. Make some pastry with half a pound of butter, three quarters of a
+pound of flour, and the yolks of two eggs; mix stiff, and roll till
+about as thick as a fifty-cent piece. Cut the paste in two parts. Take a
+medium-sized biscuit-cutter, mark half as many circles on one half the
+paste as you wish ravioli. Lay in the centre of each circle a mound of
+the force-meat--perhaps a large teaspoonful, only be careful to leave a
+quarter-inch margin all round. Moisten this margin with a camel’s-hair
+brush dipped in white of egg; lay the second half of the pastry over
+these mounds; press the cutter on each to trim them, and you have a
+number of little round patties; press the edges together very well by
+curving the little finger round them. Have some rich stock boiling in a
+stewpan; poach the ravioli five minutes. Take them up, drain them well,
+arrange them in a fire-proof gratin dish, sprinkle them over with grated
+Parmesan cheese, pour in a very little stock, and bake brown in the
+oven.
+
+_Veal Cutlets à la Primrose._--Take a pound of veal cutlet; cut it up
+into small cutlets the size of a dollar, and perfectly round. Put two
+ounces of butter (which has been first melted to let the curd separate)
+into a saucepan, with three onions, two ounces of bacon cut into small
+dice, a bouquet of herbs (including bay-leaf). Fry, stirring frequently,
+for a quarter of an hour, then add a tablespoonful of corn-starch, a
+dessertspoonful of Tarragon vinegar, and a pint of strong stock. Let all
+simmer very gently for about one hour. Take up the cutlets, strain the
+gravy and pour it over them, then sprinkle with a tablespoonful of
+grated tongue, and the same quantity of parsley dried and crumbled
+small. Chicken may also be cooked in this way.
+
+_Quails à la Lucullus._--This, as its name implies, is a most expensive
+and luxurious way of serving these dainty birds, yet by management the
+livers of chickens may be saved a day or two by scalding them, and the
+opportunity taken when several are required for general use during a
+week. Bone very carefully six or eight quails. Cut up three ounces of
+unsmoked bacon, put it in a sauté pan, let it cook five minutes, then
+add the livers, a shallot sliced, a small bouquet, twelve white
+peppercorns, six cloves, a saltspoonful of salt. Let all cook carefully
+ten minutes: nothing must burn or get very brown. When cooked, pound
+well in a mortar, pass through a sieve, then add three truffles chopped;
+stuff each quail into shape, butter some paper cases known as “quail
+cases,� put a quail into each case, a few drops of olive oil on each
+breast. Then put them in a quick oven for ten minutes or a quarter of an
+hour. For the gravy, put the bones of the quails in a stewpan, add a
+tablespoonful of glaze and a gill of brown sauce, with one
+tablespoonful of water. Simmer till the gravy is well flavored from the
+bones, then strain, and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped truffles and
+half a gill of sherry. Put one tablespoonful of this sauce over each
+quail before sending it to the table, after very carefully draining all
+grease from the quails. These are served in the papers, but rough paper
+cases may be made to bake them in, and the regular crimped ones set in
+the oven to get hot just before dishing up. Slip the quails into them
+after draining.
+
+_Quails à la Jubilee._--Bone as many birds as required. Lard them with
+pork and thin strips of truffles. Stuff them in shape with equal parts
+of sweetbreads and oysters, sew them up; roll them in buttered paper,
+and cook in the oven in enough Chablis to cover them. Pound some boiled
+potatoes and water-cresses together until thoroughly blended; put a
+tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan with one of milk; put in the
+potato, stir round till quite hot; use this to make a border on which
+to serve the quails. When they have cooked fifteen to twenty minutes,
+take them up, glaze them (melt glaze in a cup standing in hot water, and
+brush them over). Lay them on the potato border, and pour into the
+centre some Spanish sauce with mushrooms in which has been boiled a
+slice of lemon.
+
+
+
+
+XVI.
+
+ENTRÉES.--_Continued._
+
+
+_Pigeon Cutlets._--Take half a dozen young pigeons, split them down the
+back, and bone them, all but the leg, cutting off the wings at the
+second joint. Cut each bird in two down the breast; trim off all ragged
+edges, so that each half-bird has as much as possible the appearance of
+a cutlet, the leg serving for the bone. Sauté these cutlets, having
+seasoned them with pepper and salt, for three minutes in hot butter,
+then put them in the oven for five minutes. When done, press between two
+plates till cold. Then mask each cutlet with a thick purée of tomatoes
+and mushrooms in which aspic jelly has been mixed, equal parts of each.
+Let them be put on ice to stiffen the masking. Roll in fine cracker
+meal, then dip into well-beaten egg, again into the meal, and then
+place them in a sauté pan with very hot clarified butter, and cook them
+a fine golden brown. Dish up on a border of mashed potatoes browned with
+grated Parmesan; serve mushrooms in the centre and Spanish sauce all
+round.
+
+_Pigeons à la Tartare._--The pigeons should be trussed for broiling;
+flatten well with a rolling-pin without breaking the skin, season them
+with pepper and salt, dip into clarified butter and cover with very fine
+crumbs or cracker meal. Broil them carefully, turning often. Make a
+sauce of a scant tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, a shallot, two
+spoonfuls of pickled gherkins, and a boned anchovy. Mince all finely and
+separately. Squeeze over them the juice of a lemon; add half a
+tablespoonful of water and six of oil, and a little pepper. Mix all very
+well, and just before serving rub in a teaspoonful of dry mustard. Put
+the sauce into the dish, lay the pigeons over, and serve.
+
+_Compote of Pigeons._--For any dish of pigeons except roast or broiled,
+wild birds may be used in place of tame. Their flavor is far finer, and
+if not perfectly young, which is the main objection to the use of wild
+birds, the preparation remedies the defect. Cut four ounces of lean
+unsmoked bacon into pieces, and fry five minutes. Split the pigeons in
+half, skewer each half as neatly as possible with tiny skewers, so that
+they will not sprawl when dished; flour and season them lightly, and fry
+a nice brown on both sides; add one small carrot, one small turnip, two
+sticks of celery, one shallot, six mushrooms--all cut small; add a
+_bouquet garni_ and three gills of rich stock; let them all simmer very
+slowly in a stewpan for one hour, or longer if the birds are not young.
+Simmer together a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter; pepper and
+salt (quantities depend on whether the stock be seasoned); stir
+constantly, and when they begin to change color pour a gill of brown
+stock to it, stirring well; remove from the fire. Take up the pigeons,
+strain the gravy, then stir in the brown thickening you have made; boil
+up, skim off all fat, then return the birds; let them get thoroughly
+hot, but not boil. Serve on a border of mashed potatoes, pour the gravy
+round and over them, and fill the centre with peas or spinach.
+
+_Soufflé of Partridges._--Clean and cook two partridges; remove the
+breasts and best of the other flesh without skin or sinew. Take two
+ounces of rice cooked till very tender, pound them together in a mortar
+with one ounce of butter and a gill and a half of glaze melted, a
+teaspoonful of salt, and a sixth of pepper. Pound until the whole can be
+forced through a strainer, then add the beaten yolks of four eggs, and
+last of all the whites of two beaten till they will not slip from the
+dish; stir them very lightly into the mixture. Pour it into a silver
+soufflé case, or into a number of the small china cases. Bake till it
+rises, and then serve immediately with a tureen of rich brown sauce.
+This soufflé can be made of any kind of cold bird or fish. The four eggs
+are given for _medium_-sized partridges.
+
+_Salmis of Snipe._--Clean and roast lightly six snipe, saving the trail.
+When done let them get cold, then cut them up and remove the skin, and
+lay them in a buttered stewpan; pound the trimmings and bones in a
+mortar, and put them into a stewpan with two shallots, a clove, a
+bouquet of herbs, and half a pint of claret; let this simmer until
+reduced to one half. Then add three quarters of a pint of Spanish sauce.
+Let these _very gently simmer_ for half an hour, skimming frequently;
+strain through a fine sieve, and return to the stewpan. If it is not
+thick enough to coat the spoon, reduce a little more. Pour this sauce
+over the snipe in the sauté pan, and let it get hot without boiling;
+pile the pieces in a pyramid; meanwhile chop the trail, mix with half
+the quantity of _pâté de foie gras_ and a little salt and pepper;
+spread this on croûtons, bake, and use them to garnish the snipe.
+
+_Fillets of Teal with Anchovies._--Remove the breasts from a pair of
+teal after they have been three parts roasted. Take care to preserve
+each half breast in good shape. Lay these fillets seasoned in a china
+fire-proof dish which has been well buttered and strewed with grated
+Parmesan; split two anchovies, remove the bone. Wash and dry the four
+halves, lay one on each fillet of teal, moisten with a gill of fish
+stock, sprinkle with bread crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, lay small
+pieces of butter over, and bake in the oven fifteen minutes. The last
+thing before serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over all.
+
+Rabbits are so little cared for in this country that it may seem useless
+to give recipes for using them. There are probably two reasons for the
+low estimate in which rabbit is held here. One, that as they are offered
+in market they are skinny, miserable animals. Yet there are parts of
+the country where they attain a good size, and a fine plump rabbit may
+compare favorably with fowl for many purposes. Indeed, English epicures
+use it in preference for mulligatawny. The second reason, and probably
+the one that is the real reason, for the difference in taste is because,
+being so lightly esteemed, no care is ever given to the preparation of
+them.
+
+On the chance that some reader may feel inclined to test the
+possibilities of the native rabbit, and its claims to a place in choice
+cookery, I give two or three recipes, each admirable in its way. Rabbits
+should be used quite fresh, and cleaned and wiped dry as soon after they
+are killed as possible.
+
+_Grenadines of Rabbit à la Soubise._--Take the whole backs of two
+rabbits from the shoulders to the thighs, both of which you reject; cut
+away the ribs and the thin part that forms the stomach, leaving only the
+backbone with solid flesh each side; divide this into sections, about
+two joints to each. Lard them, and then braise for one hour. Stand them
+in a circle, and pour over and round them a pint of brown Soubise sauce.
+
+_Fillets of Rabbit with Cucumber._--Half roast a rabbit, then remove the
+solid flesh from each side the backbone in long fillets. Cut two
+cucumbers and one Bermuda onion in thin slices, salt them, and let them
+drain. Lard the fillets of rabbit, season them, and lay them in a
+stewpan, with a pint of white sauce slightly thinned with white stock,
+the cucumber, and the onion. Let them simmer for half an hour. Lay the
+fillets in a circle, and put the cucumber and onion in the centre, the
+sauce, which should be thick enough to mask them, over the fillets.
+Fried sippets garnish this dish.
+
+_A Civet._--For this dish the dark-fleshed rabbit, or hare, as it is
+often called, is best. Cut it into meat joints; cut half a pound of
+unsmoked bacon into slices, and fry in a saucepan; then lay in the hare,
+and sauté for fifteen minutes. Pour off the fat. Add half a pint of
+port-wine, a bouquet garni, and a dozen mushrooms, and a little pepper
+and salt; let this simmer gently one hour; then add a pint of brown
+sauce and twenty button onions which have been blanched. Simmer for
+another half-hour. Remove the bouquet, add a gill of stewed and strained
+tomato, half a gill of glaze, and a tablespoonful of Chutney. Serve in a
+pyramid, pour the gravy, after it is well skimmed, over the whole, and
+garnish with fried croûtons.
+
+_Timbales d’Épinard._--Make some quenelle meat of chicken or veal
+according to directions already given, and mix with purée of spinach,
+prepared as follows, until it is a nice green; pick and wash some
+spinach, put it into salted boiling water, and boil fast for fifteen
+minutes. Drain and press it, then beat it through a wire sieve; return
+to the saucepan with two ounces of butter; pepper and salt; stir till
+well mixed. Stir a gill of cream to the quenelle meat, then use enough
+of the spinach to give it a fine light-green color. When well mixed,
+butter some dariole moulds; nearly fill them. Then dip your finger in
+cold water and press a hole in the centre of each to the bottom; fill it
+with a purée of ham, and then put a coating of quenelle meat over, and
+steam twenty minutes.
+
+Purée of ham is prepared as follows: pound lean boiled ham in a mortar
+with some stock that has been boiled down to half glaze; rub through a
+wire sieve. If too stiff, moisten with a little more melted glaze.
+
+
+
+
+XVII.
+
+COLD ENTRÉES, OR CHAUDFROIDS.
+
+
+These elegant dishes are suitable for formal breakfasts, luncheons, and
+suppers, and while presenting an unusually attractive appearance, are
+easier to manage than less elaborate dishes, because they can usually be
+prepared, all but garnishing, the day before.
+
+Although in giving the recipes meat cooked for the purpose will always
+be directed, and for formal purposes no care or expense should be
+spared, the intelligent reader will see where she may make a very pretty
+dish by utilizing cold fowl, game, or lamb for any simple occasion.
+
+_Sweetbreads au Montpellier._--Parboil a pair of fine white sweetbreads,
+after soaking them in salt and water an hour. Let them get cold between
+two plates under slight pressure. Cut them into the form of cutlets
+(cutlet cutters are to be obtained at the fashionable New York hardware
+stores, and at the large French tin-shops down-town). Have some firm
+aspic jelly not quite set; dip each cutlet in it; chop some aspic that
+is hard and cold roughly; form a circle of it; arrange the cutlets on
+this; fill the centre with asparagus heads; pour mayonnaise round, and
+garnish with fancy shapes of aspic, red and white alternately. Red aspic
+is colored with pulp of the red beet stirred into it while liquid and
+then strained out; green is produced by spinach. The various shades of
+amber, shading into rich brown, that are so effective when tastefully
+mingled, are due to caramel coloring. When colored aspic is required for
+garnishing, pour off a little into separate vessels, and color each as
+required.
+
+_Chicken Salad à la Prince._--Cut the white meat of cold fowl into neat
+fillets, using a very sharp knife, so that there may be no ragged edges.
+Mask each piece with a mixture made as follows: One tablespoonful of
+finely minced capers, two of minced boiled ham, three hard-boiled eggs,
+an anchovy boned and washed, and two sardines freed from skin. All these
+must be well pounded, then rubbed through a sieve; add a teaspoonful of
+finely minced tarragon and chives. Stir all into a tablespoonful of
+mayonnaise and one of aspic, semi-fluid of course. When each fillet has
+been well coated with the mixture and has set, line a border mould with
+aspic jelly, ornament the fillets of chicken with little strips of
+beet-root and cucumber arranged like a trellis-work. Place them very
+carefully round the mould on the layer of aspic, then pour in a little
+more aspic, until the border mould is full, and set it on ice. When
+about to serve have a dish well layered with the small leaves of
+lettuce. Drop the mould for one minute in warm water, and turn out on to
+the lettuce. Fill the centre with a salad composed of cucumber cut into
+dice, peas, string-beans cooked until tender (for this purpose the
+canned French string-beans serve admirably, being beautifully cut
+ready). Pour over the centre salad some thick mayonnaise.
+
+Where mayonnaise makes too rich a dish for the digestion, béchamel sauce
+may be substituted for masking, but never for salad; for instance, two
+very simple chaudfroids of chicken may be made as follows:
+
+_Chaudfroid of Chicken_, No. 1.--Cut up a young fleshy chicken into neat
+joints, remove the skin, mask each piece carefully with béchamel sauce;
+when quite set arrange on chopped aspic in a circle, garnish with strips
+of cucumber and beet; cut the remainder of the cucumber and beet into
+neat pieces, and stir into a gill of mayonnaise, and use for the centre.
+This and all salads should be lightly seasoned before the mayonnaise is
+added, or they are apt to taste flat.
+
+_Chaudfroid of Chicken_, No. 2.--Prepare the chicken as in last recipe,
+only before masking the joints season the béchamel well with finely
+chopped tarragon; leave out the mayonnaise and aspic. Pile up the pieces
+of chicken on the entrée dish, and garnish with Roman lettuce, or, if
+that is not to be had, the hearts of Boston lettuce.
+
+_Chicken and Ham Cutlets._--Boil a young fowl with a good breast in
+clear stock; take it out, let it get cold; cut the breast into rather
+thin slices. The bones, skin, and trimmings may be thrown back in the
+stock, which can be boiled down to make both the béchamel and aspic for
+the dish (see recipes), or be kept for other purposes. Take the slices
+of chicken and some very well cooked lean ham that is cut so thin you
+can see the knife under the slices. Melt a little béchamel sauce, that
+must be like blanc-mange, pour it on a plate, and before it has time to
+cool cover the plate with the slices of chicken. Dip the ham into the
+stock (if it has been boiled down to jelly, otherwise into melted
+aspic), lay the ham over the chicken, then more thin slices of chicken.
+Now cover the whole by means of a spoon with more béchamel; when all
+this sets, which, as your sauce has only been half melted, it will do
+quickly, you have a large white cake about half an inch thick. Cut this
+cake into small pieces (unless you have a cutlet cutter), as like a
+cutlet in form as possible, using a sharp penknife or boning-knife. Take
+up each carefully, and with the end of a silver knife or small spoon
+cover the edges with the béchamel sauce, which must be nearly set for
+this purpose.
+
+To garnish the cutlets, cut some tiny green leaves from pickled
+gherkins, and red ones from the skin of a red pepper-pod, and place two
+of each in the centre of each cutlet, star-shaped; a touch of white
+sauce will make them stick; place a speck of parsley not larger than a
+pin’s head in the centre. Stick a tiny lobster claw three quarters of an
+inch long at the narrow end of the cutlet, and place them in a silver
+dish round some aspic of a bright amber color, chopped. Put a very
+small sprig of parsley between each cutlet.
+
+I may here remind the reader that when aspic or béchamel is used for
+masking or for pouring into a mould as lining, etc., it must _not be
+made hot_, only softened in a bowl set in warm water, just enough to be
+free from lumps. It must, of course, be stirred from the moment it
+begins to soften. The mould to be lined should be turned about till it
+is well coated, and if there is a disposition to run off the sides, roll
+it round in ice. For instance, when the first layer of béchamel is
+poured on the plate as directed in last recipe, it must be moved about
+until quite covered, yet very thinly. If it sets too soon, hold the
+bottom of the plate over steam.
+
+_Reed-birds in Aspic._--Take the back and breast bone from a dozen
+birds, splitting them down the back first. Save the feet. Make a
+force-meat of _pâté de foie gras_ and panada in equal proportions;
+season highly, spread the inside of the birds, sew them up as nearly in
+shape as possible; bake seven to ten minutes, then dip them into glaze;
+put a little pale aspic in a dozen dariole moulds, enough to cover the
+bottom a quarter of an inch, and when just set put in a bird breast
+down; set on ice a few minutes, then pour in aspic to cover the bird a
+quarter of an inch. Put on ice. Turn out, and on the top of each strew
+pistachio nuts chopped very fine. Insert the two feet of the bird,
+scalded and dried, to stand up from the centre.
+
+_Chaudfroid of Reed-birds._--Prepare as in last recipe with _pâté de
+foie gras_ force-meat. Butter a dozen dariole moulds. Put a bird in
+each, breast downward; put the dariole moulds in a pan with a little
+water, and set it in the oven for fifteen minutes; when cold, turn out
+the birds, wipe them, dip each in brown _chaudfroid_ sauce, and put them
+on a dish to cool. When cold, lay them in rows against a pile of chopped
+aspic.
+
+_Brown Chaudfroid Sauce_ is made by putting a pint of Spanish sauce, a
+gill of cream, half a pint of aspic jelly together, and boiling them
+until they are reduced one quarter. Skim constantly, and strain for use.
+
+_White Chaudfroid Sauce_ is simply béchamel and aspic treated in the
+same way. It differs, of course, from plain béchamel in having the
+piquant flavor of the aspic; in appearance there is little difference.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII.
+
+COLD ENTRÉES.
+
+
+_Iced Savory Soufflé._--This dish can be made of fish, game, or chicken,
+but is considered best made of crab. Cut up the crab, or whatever it may
+be, into small pieces; let it soak in mayonnaise sauce for two or three
+hours. Have some well-flavored aspic jelly, half liquid; whip it till it
+is very frothy; put some of this at the bottom of the dish it is to be
+served in--a silver one is most effective; then place a layer of crab
+well seasoned, and fill it up with aspic and crab alternately until the
+dish is nearly full; place a band of stiff paper round, and fill in with
+whipped aspic; set it on ice for two hours; take off the paper, and
+serve.
+
+_Savories._--Within the last few years, which may, perhaps, be called
+the renaissance of cooking in England, since Kettner, in his “Book of
+the Table,� shows that in the Middle Ages that country was famous for
+its cuisine, while France was still benighted--within the last few
+years, then, there has grown up a fashion of introducing preparations
+called _savories_. They vary very much, from the tiny little _bouchette_
+of something very piquant, to be taken between courses as an
+appetizer--which, I believe, was the original idea--to quite important
+dishes suitable as entrées for formal breakfasts or suppers. But it is
+with the original “savory� as a piquant mouthful that they will take
+their place in this book. So important a part have they come to play in
+English _menus_ (I am not now speaking of simple dinners) that the
+invention of a new “savory� is something to be proud of, and it is said
+that the very best are invented by the _bons vivants_ themselves, seldom
+by the _chef_. One lady has written a book of which _savories_ is the
+only branch of cooking treated, and she says in her preface, “Savories
+being at present so fashionable, and novelties in them so eagerly
+inquired for, I have been induced to publish a small book on the
+subject.�
+
+In looking over any list of small savories we find many of our old
+friends in it, such as _cheese canapés_, _angels on horseback_, _anchovy
+toast_, etc. With these familiar dainties we will have nothing to do,
+only the mention of them will serve to show that any little piquant
+morsel may be used as an appetizer served as _hors d’œuvres_.
+
+_The Savage Club Canapés._--These must be made small enough not to
+require dividing--in other words, can be eaten at one mouthful. Cut
+slices of stale Vienna bread a quarter of an inch thick, stamp out from
+them with a very small cutter circles about the size of a fifty-cent
+piece. Sauté these in a little hot butter till they are a very pale
+brown. Lay them on paper when done, to absorb grease. Stone as many
+small olives as you have guests; fillet half as many small
+anchovies--that is to say, split them, and remove the bones and scales;
+wash them, dry them, and roll each one up as small as possible, and
+insert it in an olive in place of the stone. Now trim one end of the
+olive so that it will stand; then put a drop of thick mayonnaise on the
+centre of one of the rounds of fried bread, which, of course, must be
+quite cold; stand the stuffed olive on it neatly, and put one drop of
+mayonnaise on the top, to cover the opening in the olive. A variation,
+and I think an improvement, on this bouchée, is to use a little softened
+aspic to attach the olive, and a small quantity finely chopped to crown
+it. Still another plan is to put a tiny disk of bright-red beet on the
+top, using aspic to cement it there.
+
+_Canapés á la Bismarck._--Cut circles with a small cutter from slices of
+stale bread a quarter of an inch thick; sauté in butter till they are a
+light brown; spread over each when cold a thin layer of anchovy butter;
+curl round on each an anchovy well washed, boned, and trimmed; sprinkle
+very finely shred olives over them. Anchovy butter is two parts butter
+and one of anchovy paste.
+
+_Caviare Canapés._--Cut some slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick;
+cut disks from them with a small round cutter; fry them pale brown in
+butter. When about to use them chop a large handful of water-cress
+leaves very fine, taking care to press them in a cloth to remove all
+water before you begin to chop; when they are almost as fine as pulp,
+mix with them an equal amount of butter; when well blended, spread each
+canapé with it, and spread a layer of caviare on the top.
+
+_Prawns en Surprise._--Cut some small rounds of bread and butter, not
+more than two inches in diameter and a quarter inch thick. Peel some
+prawns; steep them in mayonnaise sauce a few minutes; place three on
+each round of bread-and-butter, with a small piece of water-cress on
+each. Place over all some whipped aspic jelly; strew lobster coral over
+them.
+
+_Prince of Wales Canapés._--Take some fine prawns, three anchovies, two
+gherkins, and two truffles. Bone the anchovies and wash them, peel the
+prawns, and then cut all the ingredients into very small dice. Make a
+sauce as follows: Bruise a hard-boiled yolk of egg in a mortar with a
+tablespoonful of salad oil, a saltspoonful of mustard; mix with this an
+anchovy and a teaspoonful of tarragon that has been scalded and chopped;
+pound all well together, and pass through a sieve with a teaspoonful of
+tarragon vinegar and a speck of cayenne; mix enough of this with the
+prawns, etc., to season the mixture. Salt, it will be observed, is not
+mentioned, because the anchovies and prawns may be salt, but this can
+only be known to the cook by tasting. Butter some small water biscuits
+(crackers), put a small teaspoonful of the mixture on each, and cover
+with finely chopped aspic. Garnish by putting a spot of green gherkin on
+one, a spot of red beet on another, and on a third one of truffle, and
+so on alternately.
+
+_Shrimp Canapés._--Fry some rounds of bread as directed for other
+canapés. Make some shrimp butter by pounding equal quantities of
+shrimps, from which heads, tails, and shells have been removed, and
+fresh butter till they form a smooth mass; spread the fried bread with
+it. Place whole shrimps on the top in the shape of a rosette, in the
+centre of which put a tiny pinch of chopped parsley.
+
+_Cheese Biscuits à la St. James._--Take three tablespoonfuls of the
+finest flour, half a pound of cream curds, and five ounces of Brie
+cheese, which has been carefully scraped, and a pinch of salt; pound all
+in a mortar; add five ounces of softened butter and three eggs, to make
+a very stiff paste, which must be rolled very thin, and cut into round
+biscuits. Bake in a very quick oven, and serve hot.
+
+_Kluskis of Cream Cheese._--Take half a pound of fresh butter, six eggs,
+six tablespoonfuls of cream cheese, a pinch of powdered sugar, salt, and
+sufficient grated bread crumbs to make a paste, adding cream if it
+crumbles; mix well together, and roll into small balls; poach them in
+boiling water until firm (no longer). Serve hot, with a spoonful of
+poivrade sauce on each.
+
+_Cold Cheese Soufflés._--Grate one and a half ounces of Gruyère cheese;
+the same of Parmesan. Whip half a pint of cream and a gill of aspic
+jelly to a high froth; stir in the cheese; season with salt, cayenne,
+and made mustard to taste. Fill little paper baskets or very small
+ramequin cases, grate cheese over the top, and set on ice to get firm.
+
+The above mixture may be frozen just as you would ice-cream, but very
+firm, then cut out in little cubes, and serve on canapés of fried bread;
+it is then called “Croûtes de Fromage Glacé.�
+
+_Oysters à la St. George._--Take the beards from two dozen oysters; put
+the melt (or soft roe) of two Yarmouth bloaters into a sauté pan with
+two ounces of butter; dry and flour the oysters, and sauté them with
+the melt. Have some squares of bread fried a nice light brown; place a
+nice piece of the melt on each square, and an oyster on top; squeeze a
+few drops of lemon juice on each, and serve very hot.
+
+_Allumettes._--For these fantastic little trifles you require anchovies
+preserved in oil--not in salt; they are found at all Italian groceries
+and at the larger American grocers’. Wipe them free from scales and oil;
+cut each into long, thin strips. Have ready some plain pastry rolled
+very thin; envelop each strip of anchovy in pastry; pinch closely, so
+that it will not burst open, and fry in very hot fat for a half-minute,
+or sauté them in butter till crisp and yellow. Serve log-house fashion,
+using two allumettes for each crossing instead of one; put fried parsley
+in the corners, and serve very hot.
+
+_Eggs à la St. James._--Take as many eggs as you have guests, and boil
+them hard in buttered dariole moulds; the moulds must be large enough to
+hold the egg when broken into it, but not much larger. When quite cold
+remove the eggs; slice off the white at one end of each, taking care to
+preserve the shape. Scoop out the yolk; mix this with a teaspoonful of
+chopped truffles, a little pepper and salt, and put it back very neatly
+into the whites. Coat the eggs with aspic jelly several times. Serve
+them upside down, that is, the uncut part upward. Put a spoonful of
+half-mayonnaise (mayonnaise mixed with whipped cream) on each, and a few
+specks of chopped truffle.
+
+A variety of this dish has anchovy paste in very small quantity in place
+of truffle, and the mayonnaise just made pink with it.
+
+
+
+
+XIX.
+
+GALANTINES, BALLOTINES, ETC.
+
+
+Galantines are so useful and handsome a dish in a large family, or one
+where many visitors are received, that it is well worth while to learn
+the art of boning birds in order to achieve them. Nor, if the amateur
+cook is satisfied with the unambitious mode of boning hereafter to be
+described, need the achievement be very difficult.
+
+Experts bone a bird whole without breaking the skin, but to accomplish
+it much practice is required; and even where it is desirable to preserve
+the shape of the bird, as when it is to be braised, or roasted and
+glazed for serving cold, it can be managed with care if boned the easier
+way. However, if nice white milk-fed veal can be obtained, a very
+excellent galantine may be made from it, and to my mind to be preferred
+to fowl, because, as a matter of fact, when boned there is such a thin
+sheet of meat that it but serves as a covering for the force-meat (very
+often sausage-meat), and although it makes a savory and handsome dish,
+it really is only glorified sausage-meat, much easier to produce in some
+other way. This is, of course, not the case with turkey; but a boned
+turkey is so large a dish that a private family might find it too much
+except for special occasions. On the other hand, galantines of game,
+although the birds may be still smaller, are so full of flavor that it
+overwhelms that of the dressing.
+
+The following process of boning, however, applies to all birds. To
+accomplish the work with ease and success, a French boning-knife is
+desirable, but in the absence of one a sharp-pointed case-knife may do.
+Place the bird before you, breast down, with the head towards you. Cut a
+straight line down the back through skin and flesh to the bone. Release
+with the left thumb and forefinger the skin and flesh on the left side
+nearest to you, and with the right hand keep cutting away the flesh from
+the bone, pulling it away clear as it is cut with the left hand. When
+you reach the wing joint cut it clean away, leaving the bone in the
+wing, and continue cutting with the knife close to the bone until all
+the meat from the left breast is released. Return to the back and
+continue to separate the meat from the bone, always keeping the edge of
+the knife pressed close to the latter, until the leg is reached; twist
+it round, which will enable you to get the skin over it, and cut the
+joint from the body bone. Proceed with the right side in the same way,
+using your left hand for cutting and your right to free the meat (to
+some this would be very awkward, and when it is so turn the bird round).
+The bird will now be clear of the carcass. Lay the bird flat on the
+board, inside upward, then cut out the wing-bone and proceed to the
+legs; cut the meat on the inside of each thigh down to the bone and
+clear the meat from it, cutting it each side until you can lift the
+bone out; then free the drumstick in the same way.
+
+If it be intended to stuff the bird in form, it would be necessary to
+bone the leg and wings from the inside, but for a galantine it is
+useless trouble, as they are to be drawn inside the bird. Spread out the
+bird, having drawn legs and wings inside, season with a teaspoonful of
+salt and half a saltspoonful of white pepper mixed together, and rubbed
+over the flesh, which must have been made as even as possible by cutting
+the thick parts and spreading them over the thin ones. If there are any
+bits of meat clinging to the bones they must be carefully gathered
+together and chopped with a pound of veal and two ounces of lean cold
+boiled ham, with four ounces of fat, sweet, salt pork. (Butter may be
+substituted if pork is objected to). When all is chopped as fine as
+sausage-meat, season rather highly with pepper and salt. Spread a layer
+an inch thick over the bird; then add some long strips of tongue, some
+black truffles cut into dice half an inch square, and a few pistachio
+nuts. Dispose these, which may be called the ornamental adjuncts of the
+galantine, judiciously, so that when cut cold they will be well
+distributed. Cover carefully with another layer of force-meat, fold both
+sides over so that the force-meat will be well enclosed, form it into a
+bolster-shaped roll, tie it up in a linen cloth securely with string at
+each end, and sew the cloth evenly along the middle, so that the shape
+will keep even. Put it into a stewpan with stock enough to cover it, two
+onions, two carrots sliced, a stick of celery, a small bunch of parsley,
+a dozen peppercorns, an ounce of salt, and the bones of the bird, well
+cracked. Let it _simmer gently_ for three hours and a half. Take it up,
+strain the liquor, and let the galantine get nearly cold. Take off the
+cloth; wring it quite dry; put it on again, rolling the galantine as
+tight as possible; tie firmly, and place it on a platter; cover with
+another platter, and place a heavy weight upon it to press it into
+shape. Let the stock get cold. Take off the grease. Add a
+half-teaspoonful of sugar and the juice of a quarter of a lemon to the
+stock, and reduce by rapid boiling to a half-glaze, that is to say, a
+jelly firm enough to cut into forms without being tough. Clear with
+white of egg in the usual way, and when quite transparent pour part into
+shallow dishes, leaving enough to cover the galantine. Color one dish a
+rich clear brown; leave the rest light. When the jelly thickens, but is
+not quite set, cover the galantine with it half an inch thick. When the
+jelly is cold, cut it into what are called _croûtons_, which may mean
+vandyked strips, to be laid across, triangles, squares, or any fancy
+shapes; the pieces and trimmings are chopped to scatter over the dish or
+lay in small piles round.
+
+_Ballotines_ are small galantines made by treating small birds as
+directed in last recipe, only that the force-meat should have a larger
+proportion of truffles, and be made of the same kind of bird; for
+instance, grouse would have rich force-meat of grouse. One grouse,
+however, would make two or four ballotines; quails make two, to be
+served as individuals.
+
+_Galantine of Breast of Veal._--Bone a breast of young white veal very
+carefully, spread it out as flat as possible on the board, pare the meat
+at the ends for about an inch so that the skin may project beyond. Take
+all the scraps of meat that may have come from boning, provided they are
+not sinewy; take also twelve ounces of veal cutlet, and half the
+quantity of fat unsmoked bacon. Chop very fine, seasoning all rather
+highly. When the meat is fine, season the inside of the veal. Mix with
+the force-meat tongue, truffles, and pistachio-nuts or olives, all cut
+into half-inch dice (the tongue larger). So mix these that they will
+come at regular intervals through the stuffing. Roll the breast round
+the stuffing, which is not spread, but laid in a mass, and sew the veal
+together. Fasten it up in a cloth, tie securely at the ends, then tie
+bands of tape round at intervals to keep it in shape.
+
+Braise this galantine for six hours in stock, which may be made of a
+small knuckle of veal and the bones and trimmings. Vegetables as
+directed for chicken galantine.
+
+Let the galantine be cold before it is untied. Garnish and glaze as
+directed for chicken.
+
+Galantine is occasionally made of sucking pig, and is very popular in
+France. The pig must be carefully boned, all but the head and feet. A
+sufficient quantity of veal, of fat unsmoked bacon, and of bread panada
+must be chopped and pounded to make enough force-meat to stuff the pig
+in the proportion of one part bacon, two panada, and three of veal,
+seasoned with a teaspoonful of onion juice and two of powdered sage.
+
+The pig’s liver must have been boiled in stock, and cut in dice. There
+must be fillets or strips of rabbit or chicken, a few chopped truffles
+and olives. Mix well. Lay in the fillets as you stuff the pig, and when
+full sew up the opening. Try to keep the shape as near as possible. Then
+braise slowly for four to five hours, as directed for galantine of veal.
+Do not remove the cloth till it is cold.
+
+
+
+
+XX.
+
+HOW TO “FILLET.�--COLD GAME PIES.
+
+
+I have spoken several times of “filleting.� To some readers an
+explanation of the term may be necessary. To “cut up� a bird does not
+indicate the meaning, nor does the term “to carve� it do so, because to
+carve means to cut up or divide with an exact observance of joints and
+“cuts.� Filleting, when applied to anything without bones, as the breast
+of a bird or boned fish, means to cut into very neat strips that are
+thicker than slices; but when you are directed to “fillet� a grouse or a
+chicken, it is intended that you should cut it into small neat portions
+regardless of joints and without the least mangling of it; therefore a
+very sharp knife must be used, and either a small sharp cleaver or a
+large cook’s knife only to be employed when a bone has to be cut
+through.
+
+_To Fillet Cooked Birds: Grouse, Pheasants, or Poultry._--Cut the bird
+in half straight down the middle of the breast-bone, using a large sharp
+knife for the purpose. Lay each half on the table and take out the
+breast-bone from either side. If the bird is a large fowl, duck, or
+partridge, each breast will make three fillets, and leave a good piece
+with the wing, but average birds only make two breast fillets. Chop off
+the pinions within an inch of the meat, then cut the wing in two neatly;
+drumsticks are to be chopped off close to the meat, and divided into two
+fillets (if a large chicken or duck; leave game whole); cut the thigh in
+two also. Trim very neatly; leave no hanging skin; indeed, when
+filleting for _chaudfroids_ the skin should be entirely removed, and
+both it and the leg-bones are removed for pies. When possible, it is
+better not to use the drumsticks. From a chicken they make an admirable
+“devil,� and from game they help the bones and trimmings to make a rich
+gravy; so it is no waste to discard them.
+
+Cold pies are of two kinds: the one cooked in a terrine or dish without
+pastry; the other in what the English call a “raised paste,� and the
+French a _pâte chaude_. Those with paste--which is seldom eaten--are far
+handsomer, but do not keep so well--that is to say, they must be eaten
+within three or four days even in winter; while in a terrine carefully
+kept in a cool airy place the pie will be good at the end of three
+weeks.
+
+On the other hand, the pie in a terrine is much less trouble to make.
+Proceed as follows:
+
+_Game Pie._--Make some force-meat thus: Fry a quarter of a pound of fat
+ham cut in dice with half a pound of lean veal. Take the ham up before
+it gets brown, as you do not need it crisp; when the veal is cooked take
+that up also, and if there is enough of the ham fat in the pan, put in
+half a pound of calf’s liver cut up in dice, if not, sauté it in
+butter. In sautéing all these they must be often stirred, as you want
+them well cooked and yet not very brown. When done they must be finely
+chopped, then pounded in a mortar, with a small teaspoonful of salt, and
+half a saltspoonful of pepper. Then add a dozen mushrooms chopped, and
+mix the whole.
+
+A game pie is usually made rather large, and the greater variety of game
+used, the better; partridge, pheasant, grouse, hare, all help one
+another, but at least two kinds are necessary. It must be boned and
+neatly filleted into small joints. Put on all the bones and trimmings to
+stew in three pints of water, with a good-sized carrot, onion, a stick
+of celery, a small bouquet, a clove, a teaspoonful of sugar, one of
+salt, and a little pepper; boil all this until the bones look white and
+dry when out of the stock. Strain, and reduce by rapid boiling to a
+half-glaze; put a layer of the force-meat at the bottom of the dish,
+then one of boned game, with a sprinkling of pepper and salt, and either
+a little finely chopped parsley or, what is far better, a few thin
+slices of truffles; pour over a little of the reduced stock; fill the
+dish in this way to within an inch of the top; make a plain
+flour-and-water paste, lay it on the pie, and make a hole in the centre,
+bake slowly in a pan of hot water. When cold, remove the paste, cover
+the top with chopped aspic, fold a napkin, and serve the terrine on it,
+with a wreath of parsley round the base. Game pie is not a dish to be
+eaten at one or even two meals (unless very small), therefore the aspic
+must be fresh each time it is served.
+
+_French Method of Making a Game Pie or Pâte Chaude._--Make a paste of
+two pounds of flour and one of lard or butter, with salt to taste and
+about half a pint of water; knead it into a smooth, rather hard paste;
+put it into a damp napkin for an hour. Butter a raised pie dish--a tin
+one that opens to release the pie--line it with the paste rolled half
+an inch thick, letting it come half an inch above the dish; line the
+inside of the paste with buttered paper, bottom and sides, and fill with
+rice or corn meal; cover with another piece of buttered paper, wet the
+top of the pastry all round, and lay a cover of thin pastry over it;
+trim very neatly, make a hole in the centre, and ornament with leaves
+cut from the paste and laid on; the under side should be slightly
+moistened to make them adhere. Brush the surface with well-beaten egg,
+and bake about an hour, when it should be a nice golden brown. Take off
+the cover; after it has slightly cooled, remove the rice or meal and the
+buttered paper; take the case from the mould, and brush it all over with
+egg inside and out; set it in the oven until the glazing dries, and any
+part that may not be sufficiently brown becomes the color of the cover,
+which, being glazed at first, is not returned to the oven.
+
+_Preparation for Filling the Case._--Fillet chickens, guinea-hens,
+partridges, or grouse (leave pigeons or quails whole, but bone them).
+Put sufficient pieces of one sort, or all sorts mixed, to fill the pâte
+chaude case into a sauté pan, with two ounces of butter, and sauté till
+lightly colored. Take them out, and put them in a stewpan with a quart
+of reduced consommé, half a pint of mushrooms sliced, a dozen truffles
+cut into dice (half-inch), a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and a
+wineglass of sherry, and let them simmer very gently, _not boil_, for
+half an hour, or until very tender. Let them cool, and when lukewarm
+arrange them in the pâte case, leaving the centre hollow, which fill
+with mushrooms and truffles. The liquor in which they were stewed must
+be then poured over them. The cover of a pâte chaude case is often not
+used, and aspic jelly covers the top of the pie.
+
+_English Manner of Making Game Pie in a Crust._--Use at least two kinds
+of game, which for this purpose must not be long kept; high game is
+acceptable to epicures when roasted or stewed, but never in a pie.
+Discard all parts blackened by shot. Cut into neat joints, from which
+bones must be removed. Take all the fragments from the carcass after the
+breast and joints are removed, and the flesh of a small bird or hare,
+or, failing that, some calf’s liver fried in dice; pound whichever you
+may have for force-meat in a mortar with four ounces of bacon that has
+been boiled; when the whole forms a paste (from which you have removed
+all strings, sinew, or gristle while pounding), season with pepper and
+salt--a teaspoonful of salt to a pound of force-meat, and a scant half
+saltspoonful of pepper. Put on the bones, _without vegetables_, in cold
+water to simmer until it is a rich broth, which strain, and boil rapidly
+till a little set on ice in a saucer will jelly. Make what is called
+“raised� paste in the following way: To two pounds of flour use three
+quarters of a pound of butter and half a pint of scalding milk; pour
+this into a hole in the centre of the flour, and knead into a firm
+paste, adding a little more milk if necessary (but it seldom is). This
+paste is not to be rolled, but beaten out with the hand while warm to
+half an inch thickness. Line a well-buttered meat-pie mould, with a
+hinge opening at the side; leave half an inch of paste above the mould;
+trim off neatly with scissors. Then lay in the game and force-meat in
+alternate layers, seasoning the joints with pepper and salt as you lay
+them. A few slices of tongue and truffles to form one layer are
+desirable. When the mould is full, lay on the cover, moisten the under
+edge, and pinch round in tiny scallops. Make a hole in the centre, round
+which put an ornament; stick in a bone to prevent the hole closing, and
+bake two to four hours in a moderate oven, according to size,
+remembering always that the crust will not be injured by long baking,
+and that the game in this pie is uncooked. When it is removed from the
+oven, let it stand half an hour, taking the mould off, that it may
+cool; then brush the sides and top with an egg beaten with milk, and
+return the pie to the oven that the sides may brown; cover the top, if
+it is already highly colored, with a sheet of paper. Remove the bone
+from the centre, insert a small funnel, and after removing all fat from
+it, pour in the gravy from the bones. The gravy must be poured very
+slowly or it will bubble up, and care must be taken to have all the pie
+will hold, yet not a drop too much, or it will ooze somewhere. These
+pies, when quite cold, may be sent any distance, and are much used in
+England and Scotland for hunting-parties, besides being a standard
+breakfast and luncheon dish. The crust is merely a frame to hold the
+game.
+
+
+
+
+XXI.
+
+GARNISHES.
+
+
+In all choice cookery the appearance of dishes has to be carefully
+studied. However good the taste may be, the effect will be spoiled if
+its appearance on the table does not come up to the expectation raised
+by the name on the _menu_. For this reason the subject of garnishes
+requires to be considered apart from the dishes they adorn. In the old
+time garnishes were few and simple, and when not simple, very ugly, as
+the camellias cut from turnips and stained with beet juice. Nowadays
+garnishes are many, and many so termed form part of the dish, as what
+are termed, “floating garnishes for soup,� quenelles, etc. Garnishes
+that are merely ornamental need not be so expensively made as those
+intended for eating. Foremost among fashionable floating garnishes for
+soup are the colored custards known as pâte royale; they are perfectly
+easy to make, yet very effective served in clear bouillon.
+
+_Colored Custard._--Prepare the custard with five yolks of eggs, a gill
+of cream or strong bouillon, and a pinch of salt; butter small saucers
+or cups; divide the custard in three--color one with spinach juice or
+pulp of green asparagus, another with red tomato pulp or the pulp of red
+carrot boiled, and a third with pulp of beets. A few drops of cochineal
+may be added to intensify the color of the last, which is apt to be a
+beautiful pink instead of red. The custard for which pulps are used must
+be strained after they are added, expressing as much of the juice as
+possible. The custard should be flavored delicately with the vegetable
+used for color.
+
+_Spinach Juice_ is very frequently directed to be used as coloring, but
+scarcely anywhere is any indication given that the juice without
+preparation is of very little use. It should be prepared as follows:
+Take a large handful of fresh green spinach, wash it, and remove decayed
+leaves only; drain well, then pound in a mortar or chopping-bowl until
+quite mashed. Let it stand a quarter of an hour, then squeeze the mass
+in a cloth, and put the green water into a cup, which set over the fire
+in a small saucepan of water; watch the scum rise; when it stands quite
+thick at the top and turns a vivid green, remove at once (if it remains
+on the fire after this the green darkens); pour the contents of the cup
+through cheese-cloth or thin muslin laid in a strainer. The scum that
+remains is your coloring matter. It must be carefully scraped off with a
+spoon, and mix with the custard only as much as is required to give a
+delicate green tint. If any is left it may be mixed with an equal
+quantity of salt and put away; it loses color, however, after a few
+days.
+
+The colored custards must be set in water, a small piece of buttered
+paper over each, and the water allowed to boil gently round them till
+they are firm. Let them get quite cold; then cut them into cubes or
+diamonds.
+
+_Profiterolles._--Perhaps the next in popularity of these floating
+garnishes are _profiterolles_, or “prophet’s rolls,� as cooks call them.
+They are made exactly like those intended for dessert, omitting
+sweetening of course, and a very small quantity is required, as they
+must be dropped no larger than a pea, and baked a _pale_ fawn-color.
+
+Put a gill of water and a pinch of salt and two ounces of butter in a
+small saucepan; as soon as they begin to boil draw the saucepan back and
+stir in four ounces of flour; beat well over the fire with a wooden
+spoon until it becomes a soft paste, then add the yolks of two eggs and
+white of one, beating each yolk in separately. It will be seen that the
+paste is similar to that made for cream cakes.
+
+A similar garnish is made in the following way: Beat an egg with a pinch
+of salt, and then stir in as much dry sifted flour as the egg will
+moisten; work it well with the hands till it is elastic, although stiff.
+Roll it on a pastry board until it is as thin as paper, then roll it on
+a clean linen cloth still thinner, and leave it a quarter of an hour to
+dry. Then fold the paste, press it very tightly together, and with a tin
+cylinder, not larger in diameter than a cent, cut out, with considerable
+pressure, as many small disks as you require to allow five or six to
+each plate of soup. Have ready in a small saucepan some _smoking hot_
+lard. Drop the disks in; they will puff and swell till they are like
+marbles. Stir them, and take them out of the fat; they require only a
+few seconds to brown, and must be taken out very pale. Add to the soup
+the last thing before serving.
+
+While aspic jelly is certainly the handsomest of garnishes for cold
+dishes, it is generally part of the food itself, and should not be so
+lavishly used that when helped there is more jelly than meat served.
+Where the jelly is intended only for a garnish not to be eaten, simple
+gelatine is sufficient. For instance, a large platter containing a
+galantine or a _chaudfroid_ may have a handsome wreath glued on the
+border, of red and green leaves, or holly leaves and red berries, or any
+device that need not be disturbed by the carver.
+
+For such decorations as these gelatine is melted in proportion of three
+ounces to a scant quart of water, cleared with white of egg, and then
+colored pale yellow with caramel or saffron, vivid red with cochineal,
+and bright green with spinach; it saves time and trouble to let this
+congeal on dishes in thin sheets. Small cutters of ivy, oak, and other
+leaves can readily be purchased at the large house-furnishing stores.
+
+One word here about uneatable decorations, never admit them at a
+children’s party; they are the very part of the feast the little people
+will most crave; red leaves for them must be of red currant-jelly,
+yellow of white, etc.
+
+“Forced butter� is another form of garnish which adds much to the
+appearance of glazed ham or tongue. It is butter beaten to a white
+cream, then put in a forcer, and a pattern traced on the ham, which must
+be followed just as in icing a cake.
+
+_A Few Ways of Cooking Vegetables._--It is not intended to go into the
+general cooking of vegetables, although it may be said that even the
+choicest cooking can offer no greater luxury, or, alas! a greater
+rarity, than a dish of early peas or asparagus _perfectly cooked_. But
+this is not the place to remedy the wholesale spoiling of summer
+vegetables that goes on in almost every kitchen. I will only give what
+may be a few new ways of preparing familiar vegetables.
+
+_Stuffed Artichokes._--Wash the artichokes; boil till nearly tender;
+drain them; remove the middle leaves and “chokes� (this is the fibrous
+part round the base); lay in each a little rich force-meat, and put them
+in the oven to cook until the meat is done. Serve with rich brown
+gravy.
+
+_Fried Artichokes._--Cut in slices lengthwise; remove the chokes, cut
+off the tops of the leaves, wash them in vinegar and water, drain them,
+and dip them in frying batter. Fry in very hot oil or lard. Serve with
+fried parsley sprinkled with salt.
+
+_Beet-root Fritters._--Cut boiled beets in slices; slice raw onions;
+scald them; dry them well; then lay one slice of onion, sprinkled with
+chopped chervil, pepper, and salt, between two slices of beet. Dip them
+carefully in frying batter, and plunge into boiling fat; when pale brown
+take them up.
+
+_Cauliflower Fritters._--Parboil the cauliflower--that is to say, boil
+until it begins to be tender--about fifteen minutes; then plunge it into
+ice-cold water; this keeps it white. Break it up into branches. Dip each
+one into thick béchamel sauce slightly warmed; let them get cold; then
+take each piece separately and dip it into carefully made frying batter,
+and drop them into boiling lard; fry a pale brown, and serve garnished
+with fried parsley.
+
+
+
+
+XXII.
+
+VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING VEGETABLES.
+
+
+_Stuffed Cucumbers._--Cut large-sized young cucumbers into slices about
+two inches thick, rejecting the ends. Peel, and remove the seeds; scald
+the slices for ten minutes, plunge them into cold water, and drain them.
+Line a fire-proof china dish with very thin slices of unsmoked bacon
+which has been scalded; make some veal force-meat such as directed for
+galantines; fill the holes in the centre of the rings of cucumber till
+it is level with the surface on both sides; wrap each up in a slice of
+bacon broad enough to cover it. Tie round with a string, pour a pint of
+strong stock into the dish, and bake twenty minutes in a slow oven. When
+done, take up the cucumber, drain, and remove the bacon carefully so as
+not to disturb the stuffing. Lay in a dish, and serve with Robert
+sauce.
+
+In the following recipes the mushrooms to be used are the large flap
+ones. When canned ones will serve, the fact will be stated.
+
+_Mushrooms Stuffed à la Lucullus._--Wash, dry, and trim large mushrooms;
+chop up the stalks and broken ones fine with a teaspoonful of minced
+parsley, pepper, salt, and a tomato; make these hot in a tablespoonful
+of butter. Fill the mushrooms with the mixture, place them on a buttered
+baking-dish, and bake six minutes, basting them once or twice with
+clarified butter.
+
+_Mushrooms and Tomatoes._--Toast some slices of bread, cut them into
+rounds two inches in diameter, and butter them. Peel some firm tomatoes,
+cut them into thick slices, and lay them on the toast. On the top of
+each place a peeled mushroom. Put them on a dish that can go to table,
+pour a little clarified butter over them, put them in a hot oven for
+three minutes, and baste well. Serve hot and quickly.
+
+_Mushroom Jelly._--Take two pounds of mushrooms, put them in a stewpan
+over the fire with a gill of strong consommé. Squeeze in a few drops of
+lemon juice, add a little pepper and salt, unless the consommé was salt
+enough. Melt in a gill of water half an ounce of gelatine, and strain
+it. When the mushrooms are quite soft, pass them through a sieve, mixed
+with the gelatine, and pour the mixture into a mould which has been
+rinsed with water. When set, turn out and garnish with finely chopped
+aspic, and a few cherry tomatoes if in season.
+
+_Mushroom Baskets._--Make some puff-paste; roll it out _very_ thin. Line
+some small suitably shaped moulds (darioles will do very nicely); fill
+the centre with uncooked rice or flour to keep the shape while baking;
+cut some strips of paste, twist them, and bend them into the shape of
+handles; bake them very pale. When the pastry cases are done, empty out
+the rice, remove them from the moulds, and fill with the following
+mixture: chop as many canned mushrooms as you require with a small
+shallot, squeeze to them the juice and pulp of a large tomato, and put
+them in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of
+very thick white sauce. Stir till about the consistency to eat with a
+fork. Squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over the top. Put the handles
+in so that they stand over the tops. Decorate with fried parsley.
+
+The large Spanish or Portuguese onion that has of late years appeared in
+the markets is not often properly cooked. It is the most delicate and
+delicious of all onions, lacking the usual intense heat and rank odor.
+For this reason persons who wish to eat onions, either for health or
+inclination, will find this large onion cut up with ordinary salad
+dressing a great improvement even on Bermudas. This onion is full of a
+milky juice, which is lost in cooking if it is cut. Therefore, where a
+simple dish is required, the best way is to boil it, without peeling or
+trimming, for three hours if it weighs three pounds (it must be tender
+right through); then take it up, strip it, and remove the root, stalk,
+etc. Pour over it a rich white sauce, and serve, taking care that the
+gravy that runs from the onion is served with it. A still better way
+when an oven is not wanted is to bake them. Put them in a dripping-pan
+in the oven without removing peel or stalk. Bake at least four hours in
+a moderate oven. It will burn and blacken outside, which is of no
+consequence. Keep it turned so that the darkening may not go deeper one
+side than the other. When quite tender (but do not try it until it
+begins to shrink, or you will let out the juices), so that a
+knitting-needle will run through it, take it out of the oven, strip off
+three or four skins, remove root and stalk, and place the onion, without
+breaking it, on a dish; put a piece of butter as large as an egg, with a
+saltspoonful of salt and a quarter one of pepper worked in it, on the
+onion; cover it, and put in the oven till the butter melts, and serve
+very hot.
+
+_Stuffed Spanish Onion._--Parboil a Spanish onion; then drop it into
+ice-water; take out the centre and fill it with force-meat; cover with a
+thin slice of sweet fat pork; sprinkle with a teaspoonful of salt and
+the same of sugar; add four tablespoonfuls of stock, cover closely, and
+cook over a good fire. When the onion is tender, take it up, remove the
+pork, strain and skim the gravy, pour it over, and serve. The best
+force-meat for the stuffing is made of cold chicken, a shred of boiled
+ham, a little chopped parsley, half a dozen mushrooms, all chopped well
+and mixed with a tablespoonful of butter and pepper and salt.
+
+_Potatoes à la Provençale._--Mash and pass through a wire sieve two
+pounds of potatoes; season with pepper and salt. Grate two ounces of
+Gruyère (Swiss) cheese, pound it with enough butter to make a paste, add
+a gill of milk and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; put this in a sauté
+pan, add the potato, mix all well, and stir until the mass is pale
+brown; serve as a pyramid.
+
+_Milanese Potatoes._--Bake large potatoes till just tender; cut off the
+tops, which keep. Scoop out the potatoes, but do not break the skin.
+Mash the inside with butter, pepper, salt, and grated Parmesan; about a
+teaspoonful of butter and cheese to each will be the right proportion.
+Beat the potato mixture with a fork for a minute to make it light,
+refill the skins, put on the covers, and heat them in the oven.
+
+_Scalloped Potatoes._--Mash two pounds of potatoes with milk, and pass
+through a sieve; add three ounces of butter melted, two ounces of grated
+Parmesan cheese, and a little pepper and salt. Fill shells with this
+mixture, and brown them in the oven. Glaze them over with butter melted
+and grated Parmesan; return one minute to the hottest part of the oven.
+Serve very hot.
+
+_Tomato Jelly._--Two pounds of tomatoes, half a grain of red pepper, and
+two small shallots. Place them in a stewpan and boil till quite soft.
+Melt half an ounce of gelatine in as little white stock as possible;
+add this to the tomatoes, and strain; if not perfectly clear, clarify
+with white of egg in the usual way. Mould, and serve with chopped aspic
+round it. A little grated Parmesan may be sometimes sprinkled over it
+for a change.
+
+_Tomato Soufflé._--Prepare some tomato pulp, taking care to boil it down
+if too liquid; stir in the yolks of three eggs, then the whites well
+beaten; salt to taste. Fill either a large soufflé case or several small
+ones. Bake in a hot oven till it rises very high and is set in the
+centre; serve instantly.
+
+_Spinach Fritters._--Boil the spinach till it is quite tender; drain,
+press, and mince it fine; add half the quantity of grated stale bread,
+one grate of nutmeg, and a _small_ teaspoonful of sugar; add a gill of
+cream and as many eggs as will make a batter, beating the whites
+separately; pepper and salt to taste. Drop a little from a spoon into
+boiling lard; if it separates, add a little more crumb of bread; when
+they rise to the surface of the fat they are done. Drain them, and serve
+very quickly, or they will fall.
+
+
+
+
+XXIII.
+
+JELLIES.
+
+
+In this country culinary skill seems to run to sweet rather than to
+savory cooking; very few housekeepers but make excellent preserves and
+cakes, yet the list of sweet dishes manufactured at home is very
+limited; as soon as anything not in this category is required the
+caterer is applied to, and he has his list of water-ices, cream-ices,
+and méringues, with very little variation; sometimes, indeed, a new name
+appears on the list, but it turns out to be some old friend with a new
+garnish, or put in a different mould and given an alluring name. There
+are many delicious sweet dishes not difficult to make when once the
+processes of making jelly and of freezing are understood (and very many
+who do not pretend to be good cooks are expert at these two things),
+and others which do not require even that ability. To put a sweet dish
+on the table, however, in perfection, especially if it be an iced one,
+requires the utmost care and skill; the slightest carelessness in
+packing a frozen pudding, any delay between removing it from the ice and
+getting it on the dish, will destroy that dull, marble-like appearance
+it ought to wear when first it makes its entry, although it will gleam
+with melting sweetness long before it reaches the partakers. Happily
+there are many delightful sweets which are beautiful in appearance and
+less depending on atmosphere than any of the family of ices. The
+simplest of these are fruit jellies.
+
+I spoke just now of the art of making jelly, and many readers may think
+in using such a term for so simple a thing I am exaggerating, and
+perhaps “art� is hardly the word, yet there is a daintiness and nicety
+in making jelly which almost deserves the term.
+
+However, before talking of how sweet dishes are to be made it is
+necessary to provide the means by which they are to be redeemed from the
+commonplace of mere richness and sweetness. The flavorings and liqueurs
+keep indefinitely if well corked. Orange-flower water, it is true, will
+lose strength, but when a bottle is first opened, if it is poured off
+into small vials, and each one corked and _sealed_, it will keep its
+original strength. The following list of articles kept in store will
+enable a cook to give her cakes, creams, etc., just that “foreign�
+flavor that home products so often lack: almonds, almond paste, candied
+cherries, candied angelica, candied orange, lemon, and citron peels,
+pistachio-nuts, orange-flower water, rose-water, prepared cochineal,
+maraschino, ratafia, lemons, extract of vanilla, and sherry.
+
+Several of these things are used principally for decoration; for
+instance, the candied cherries and angelica and the pistachio-nuts.
+Consequently, unless the cherries and angelica are required for dessert
+(to which they are a showy and delicious addition), a quarter of a
+pound at a time is all that need be bought. Very likely in small cities
+or country places these latter articles may not be obtainable. But they
+are sold at the large city caterers’, also at the stores which deal in
+French crystallized fruits--not French _candy_ stores--and can always be
+sent by mail.
+
+The vanilla should be of the finest quality, and had better be bought by
+the ounce or half-pint from the druggist than from the grocer. There are
+good extracts put up, no doubt, but very many of them are largely made
+of tonka-bean, the flavor familiar in cheap ice-cream, in place of the
+more expensive vanilla.
+
+In the recipes that will be given the directions will be as minute as
+possible; but to prescribe the number of drops required to flavor a
+quart of cream would be utterly impossible, the strength of the
+flavoring used differing so greatly, even in lemons. Sometimes the juice
+of half a lemon will be right for a certain thing, at another the juice
+of a quarter of one would be too much. This is where judgment must be
+exercised. If you have a very juicy lemon, although your recipe says the
+juice of half, you will remember that the average lemon would not yield
+nearly so much, and that the author had the average lemon in mind. This
+applies to all flavoring. Sometimes extract of bitter almond is so
+strong that even a drop would be too much to impart the faint almond
+flavor which alone is tolerable. In this case the thing to do for fear
+of spoiling the dish is to pour a half-dozen drops in a teaspoonful of
+water, and use from that, drop by drop, until the faint flavor desired
+is attained. In using any flavoring, great care must be taken not to put
+too much, as anything in the least over-flavored is offensive.
+
+_Mould of Apple Jelly._--Peel and cut up a pound of fine-flavored apples
+(to weigh a pound after preparation); put them in a stewpan with three
+ounces of granulated sugar, half a pint of water, and the juice and
+grated rind of a lemon. When cooked to a pulp, pass through a strainer,
+and stir in one ounce of gelatine that has been dissolved in a gill of
+water. Color half the apple with _about_ half a teaspoonful of
+cochineal, and fill a border mould with alternate layers of the colored
+and uncolored apple. When cold, turn out and serve with half a pint of
+cream whipped solid and piled in the centre.
+
+There is a great difference in the solidity of whipped cream. Sometimes
+it will be a mere froth that shows a disposition to liquefy, and cannot
+be piled up. When this is the case there is always a great waste of
+cream, for at least half will have been left as a milky residue. The
+reason for this failure of the cream to whip solid is generally because
+it is too fresh or too warm.
+
+If in proper condition, cream will whip as solid as white of eggs, and
+leave not a teaspoonful of liquid at the bottom of the bowl; nor will
+there be the least danger of cream so whipped going back to liquid. It
+will become sour, but not change its form; and it will take but a few
+minutes to beat.
+
+Cream intended for whipping should be twenty-four hours old in warm
+weather, and thirty-six in winter. It should also be thoroughly chilled,
+and if the day is very warm it would be better to set the bowl
+containing it on ice while whipping it. Put in the whip, or egg-beater,
+and _do not_ lift the froth off as it rises; it is quite unnecessary if
+the vessel you use for the cream is large enough. As you see it begin to
+thicken, which will be after steady beating for five or six minutes,
+keep on just as you would for white of eggs. When the beater is
+withdrawn you should be able to cut the cream or pile it any height. If
+by reason of excessive heat it is slow in reaching the proper
+consistency, leave the beater in the bowl, and set the whole on the ice
+until very cold again.
+
+The consistency of jelly should be only just stiff enough to keep form.
+It should shake and tremble while being served instead of remaining
+solid. It requires some little practice to make sure of this every time,
+although exact proportions be given. A tablespoonful difference in the
+pint or gill measure would, where the gelatine is only just enough,
+cause the jelly to “squat�--not an elegant term, but one that represents
+the form of a too soft jelly.
+
+A very exact recipe for plain claret jelly, and which in proportions
+serves for any other unless special mention is made of some variation,
+is as follows: Three quarters of a pint of water, one pint of claret, a
+quarter of a pint of lemon juice (this makes one quart of liquid), the
+rind of one lemon, half an inch of cinnamon in the stick and two cloves,
+one tablespoonful of red currant jelly, two ounces of gelatine, the
+whites and shells of two eggs, a few drops of cochineal, and four ounces
+of sugar; put all in a stewpan, the gelatine having been softened in a
+little of the water; whisk over the fire until the whole boils; then
+draw it off, let it stand for five to ten minutes; strain through
+flannel or fine linen _without pressure_, add a few drops of cochineal
+to brighten the color, and mould for use.
+
+Use great care in selecting cinnamon, for very much that is sold is not
+the true spice, but a cheaper one (cassia) that resembles it. Cinnamon
+has a bright tan-color, is rolled many times, and is not much thicker
+than paper when a piece is unrolled. Cassia is thicker in the roll, a
+dull brown, and if a piece is broken is like a piece of wood. It is
+similar in flavor, but much coarser, and has little strength.
+
+
+
+
+XXIV.
+
+JELLIES.--_Continued._
+
+
+If it is kept in mind that two ounces of gelatine to the quart of liquid
+is the right proportion, and that if even a tablespoonful of flavoring,
+fruit juice, or what not, is added, exactly the same quantity of other
+liquid must be omitted, there will not be much danger of formless jelly.
+Many forget this when not working from an exact recipe, and remembering
+only that a quart of cream or water or wine requires two ounces of
+gelatine to set it, they do not deduct for the glass of wine or juice of
+lemon, etc., they may add for flavoring. Although wine jelly is rather a
+simple form of sweet, suggestive of innocent country teas, a very little
+more time than the average housekeeper bestows upon it will convert it
+into a very elegant dish. In the season for fruits there is no more
+beautiful ornament for jelly than these, carefully gathered, with two or
+three leaves attached.
+
+_Jelly with Fresh Fruits._--Select cherries of two or three colors if
+possible, in sprays of two or three, and on each a leaf or two; wash
+them carefully by dipping them in and out of a bowl of water. Lay them
+between soft cloths to remove all moisture. Make a quart of punch jelly
+in the following way: Put together a pint of water, a quarter of a pint
+of the finest Santa Cruz or Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pint of sherry,
+a gill and a half of lemon juice, the rinds of two lemons, and the juice
+of one orange, or, if oranges are not to be obtained in cherry season,
+half a gill more of water, two ounces of gelatine, half an inch of
+cinnamon, the whites of two eggs well beaten and the shells crushed. Let
+this come to a boil over the fire, being well whisked the while; as soon
+as it boils draw it to a cool spot on the range, let it stand five
+minutes, and strain through scalded flannel over a bowl; let it drip,
+but do not use the least pressure. This jelly must be brilliantly clear.
+If there is any milky appearance it proves that the jelly did not really
+boil, and so the eggs had not completely coagulated; in that event boil
+once more for an instant, and strain again through fresh flannel. Oil a
+mould that has no design of fruit or vegetable at the bottom, and set it
+in cracked ice; pour in an inch or two of the jelly when nearly cold.
+Have the cherries ice cold, and arrange the sprays gracefully with due
+regard to color, remembering that the best effect must be not upward
+towards you, but towards the bottom of the mould; thus the underside of
+the leaves must be upward, etc. Do not put in more fruit than will
+display itself well. The bunches are to be isolated, not allowed to
+touch each other, and for this reason it may not be possible to lay more
+than one cluster at the bottom, if the mould is small there. In this
+case dispose a bunch of black cherries and leaves gracefully in the
+centre, pour in more jelly, half an inch or so, then nearer the sides
+arrange lighter-colored cherries, two or three clusters, no more. The
+fruit is only intended as an ornament. A jelly that is quite as pretty
+may be made by using clusters of red and white, or red, white, and black
+currants. The red and white ones should have two or three young leaves
+attached, and each cluster be perfect; no black-currant leaves must be
+used, as they have a strong flavor.
+
+_Jelly with Candied Fruits._--Make a quart of maraschino jelly, which is
+done by omitting the rum, lemon, and cinnamon from the last recipe, and
+using in place of rum a gill of maraschino, and water in place of lemon
+juice. The jelly must be very pale. Choose the fruits of as bright
+colors as possible--small green oranges, red cherries, bright yellow
+mirabelles, angelica perfectly green. Cut the oranges in half--two or
+three will suffice--leave mirabelles and cherries whole; apricots cut
+in half-moons. The angelica, if cut across a quarter-inch thick, will
+form rings, but if something more ornamental is desired it can be split
+lengthwise, softened in hot water, wiped, then tied into small
+love-knots. Pour into a mould set in ice (the melon shape is excellent
+for these jellies) an inch of jelly, let it set; then scatter in a few
+pieces of bright-colored fruit, always the best side downward; pour in
+an inch more of jelly, and when set more fruit, keeping the brighter
+pieces towards the side; if you have knots of angelica, put them near
+the side. Always see that one layer of fruit and jelly is nearly set
+before adding more.
+
+Although fruits added to jellies in the way just described are chiefly
+for decorative effect, they do add very greatly to the pleasure of
+eating them; but jellied fruits, as distinguished from _fruits in
+jelly_, are a delicious mode of eating fruit, and where it is in
+abundance afford a pleasant variety.
+
+_Jellied Raspberries._--Melt two ounces of gelatine in a gill of water,
+squeeze half a pint of currant juice from fresh currants, and crush as
+many red raspberries as will with the liquid fill a quart measure. It is
+almost impossible to give definite directions for sugar, as fruits
+differ so much. Stir in six ounces, then if not sweet enough add more;
+mould the jelly, and serve with cream.
+
+This is also very nice put in a border mould, the centre filled with
+whipped cream.
+
+_Roman Punch Jellies._--These require stiff paper cases of any of the
+ornamental kinds used for ice-cream, but they must not flare. Make some
+maraschino or wine jelly. When it begins to set, pour the jelly into the
+cases, which must be on ice, so that half the fluid jelly may set before
+it has time to soak the case. When quite set, very carefully remove the
+centre, leaving a shell of jelly half an inch thick. The last thing
+before serving fill the centres with well-frozen Roman-punch ice.
+
+_A Macédoine_ of fruits, if well managed and a good assortment of
+fruits can be had, is a very ornamental way of serving fruit. A mould
+should have half an inch of maraschino, punch, wine, or lemon jelly
+poured into it; then some perfect strawberries, or, failing those, red
+cherries, as many as the jelly will hold together without crowding, no
+more; then more jelly, and a layer of fruit of another kind (white, if
+possible), as pineapple cut into stars--a number of small stars can be
+stamped out of a few thin slices--more jelly, and a ring of dark fruit.
+Take care that all the finest fruits are used to form the outer rows.
+When the mould is almost full, with a layer or two of each kind of
+fruit, fill it up with jelly and set on ice.
+
+Creams are a favorite sweet in Europe, and eaten ice cold are delicious.
+Too often they are confounded here with blanc-mange, which may mean
+anything from corn-starch and milk to gelatine and cream, but seldom is
+improved by the confectioner’s art into a really handsome and dainty
+dish.
+
+_Ginger Cream._--Make a custard of a gill of milk, an ounce of powdered
+sugar, and the beaten yolks of three eggs. Stir in a double boiler until
+thick. Let it cool. Then add one gill of the syrup from a jar of
+preserved ginger, and cut up two ounces of the ginger; add three
+quarters of an ounce of gelatine melted in as little water as possible.
+Last of all, add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Mix gently and till
+well blended; pour into a mould, and set on ice.
+
+_Neapolitan Cream._--Make a custard of half a pint of milk, the yolks of
+four eggs, and a tablespoonful and a half of powdered sugar. Let it
+cool. Cut up three ounces of preserved ginger very small; cook it in a
+gill of ginger syrup for three minutes. Let it cool also. Decorate the
+mould with one ounce of dried cherries and leaves, etc., of jelly. Cut
+the cherries in half, glue them with a little melted jelly to the side
+and bottom of the mould; cut some jelly in thin slices, or melt it and
+let it run into thin sheets, which allow to chill, and stamp from them
+leaves, or whatever shapes you please. Glue these also to the side of
+the mould in the most effective way your taste can devise. Stir one
+ounce of gelatine melted in very little water, and half a pint of cream
+whipped solid, to the custard with which you have already mixed the
+ginger and syrup. Pour all into the decorated mould, put on ice, and
+when it is to be turned out wrap a cloth dipped in hot water round the
+mould; give it a smart slap on both sides, and it will turn out without
+difficulty.
+
+
+
+
+XXV.
+
+COLD SWEETS.--CREAMS.
+
+
+_Coffee Cream._--Make half a pint of custard with two eggs and half a
+pint of milk; dissolve an ounce of gelatine and three ounces of sugar in
+half a gill of strong coffee; add the custard, and strain; whip half a
+pint of cream quite firm; stir lightly into the custard; when it is
+cool, pour into a mould, and set on ice. The excellence of this cream
+depends on the coffee, which must be filtered, not boiled, freshly made,
+and very strong--three tablespoonfuls of coffee to the half-pint.
+
+_Curaçoa Cream._--Make a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a
+pint of milk; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in as little liquid as
+possible; mix it with two ounces of powdered sugar; add to the custard;
+then stir in a generous glass of curaçoa, and let the mixture cool,
+after which add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir very lightly
+together until well blended; then mould and set on ice.
+
+_Strawberry Cream._--Hull a pint of quite ripe strawberries; put them on
+a fine sieve, and sprinkle an ounce of sugar over them; put half an
+ounce of gelatine into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of cold water,
+two ounces and a half of powdered sugar, and the juice of a lemon, and
+let it dissolve by gentle heat. Pass the strawberries through the sieve;
+strain the gelatine, etc., to the strawberry juice, and put to get cold;
+then add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir very lightly to the
+strawberry juice, etc., when the latter is beginning to set.
+
+_Vanilla Cream._--Make a custard with three yolks and one white of egg,
+and half a pint of milk and three ounces of sugar; melt an ounce of
+gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of water, strain it to the custard, and
+mix well; whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth, and stir it
+gently to the custard and gelatine; flavor with vanilla. After the
+vanilla is added, make a couple of spoonfuls of the custard pink with
+cochineal or strawberry juice; let this cool in a thin sheet; stamp from
+it small clover leaves or lozenges, not over an inch long and three
+quarters broad; decorate the bottom of a mould with them, using a little
+gelatine and water to fasten them; set the mould in chopped ice, and
+about half-way up put four or five of the pink pieces; take great care
+there is no inequality as to height or distance (slovenly decoration is
+worse than none). When the lozenges are quite secure in their places,
+pour in the cream. It is needless to repeat this form of decoration of
+creams, they can be varied so infinitely by individual taste, but as a
+rule they should be decorated only with small forms cut out of
+bright-colored jelly, or of cream colored pink, orange, pistache green,
+or brown. Candied fruits are not effective, although sometimes used,
+unless the cream itself has fruit in it.
+
+_Pistache Cream._--Half an ounce of gelatine, two ounces of powdered
+sugar; melt the gelatine in a gill of water, then add the sugar, a glass
+of sherry, and a glass of kirsch. Whip half a pint of thick cream solid,
+and when the gelatine is cold and beginning to thicken stir the cream to
+it very lightly, and at the same time two ounces of pistachio-nuts,
+blanched and chopped fine, with enough vegetable green coloring to make
+the cream a shade or two lighter in color than the nuts. This cream must
+be stirred lightly on ice after the nuts are added, till thick enough
+for them not to sink.
+
+_Almond Cream._--Half an ounce of gelatine melted in a gill of water
+with two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry; grate four ounces of
+almond paste into it, and stir in a double boiler or bowl set in boiling
+water until dissolved, or at least until there are no lumps. Let this
+get cool. Whip a pint and a gill of cream solid, and stir to the
+mixture. Decorate a mould with any red jelly, pour the mixture in, and
+set on ice. In consequence of the variation in the strength of gelatine,
+in making any of these creams try a little on ice in a saucer before
+pouring into a mould, then add more cream or gelatine as required.
+
+_Cold Puddings and Frozen Puddings._--Some of these “puddings� might
+just as appropriately be called creams; however, fashion ordains that
+they shall be puddings. One of the newest is the
+
+_Jubilee Pudding._--Make a pint of claret jelly; pour it into a small
+border mould; whip half a pint of cream in which is a quarter of an
+ounce of dissolved gelatine. When it is whipped solid, stir in one ounce
+of preserved or candied cherries, one ounce of candied angelica, one
+ounce of preserved ginger, and one ounce of preserved apricot--the
+ginger and angelica cut small. Set on ice; then turn out. Pile the
+whipped cream and fruit in the centre, and decorate according to fancy.
+
+_Cold Soufflé Pudding à la Princesse._--Melt half an ounce of gelatine
+in a gill of cream; set in boiling water till dissolved; beat the yolks
+of three eggs well, and add to the milk; when well mixed, put the
+custard into a double boiler till it thickens--it must not boil. Pour it
+into a bowl, and add a gill of apricot preserve, made into a purée by
+rubbing through a sieve with half a gill of orange juice, two ounces of
+sugar, a little lemon juice, and cochineal to color it a very delicate
+pink. Beat the whites of four eggs till they will not slip; stir them in
+very lightly with an upward motion of the spoon, the object being to
+keep the white of egg from falling, yet the whole must be thoroughly
+mixed. Stir till nearly cold before putting the soufflé in a mould to
+set.
+
+_Imperial Rice Pudding._--Pour a quarter of a pint of clear white jelly
+into a quart mould, turning the mould about so that the jelly covers
+every part; this jelly serves to keep the ornaments in place. Cover the
+inside of the mould with an ounce of candied cherries split and half an
+ounce of angelica cut into thin rings. Stew a quarter of a pound of rice
+in a pint of milk till tender; when cool, add half a pint of whipped
+cream, a quarter of an ounce of gelatine melted in a little water, a
+quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. When
+it is all well mixed, turn the preparation into the mould, and set on
+ice. When firm, turn out of the mould, and serve with a purée of
+apricots.
+
+_Diplomatic Pudding._--Make a quart of custard in the following way: Put
+the yolks of four eggs and the white of one into a bowl, and mix well
+with a wooden spoon; stir in half a pint of milk, and strain all into a
+double boiler or a pitcher; add two ounces of sugar, and stand the
+pitcher (unless you have the double boiler) in a saucepan of boiling
+water, and stir the custard over the fire until it thickens, but it must
+not boil; remove from the fire; stir in a tablespoonful of brandy and a
+little vanilla. Line a plain mould with half a pint of wine jelly; this
+is done by pouring a little in at a time when it is half fluid, rolling
+the mould about on ice, and as soon as one coat adheres, pour in more,
+until the mould is evenly coated; decorate it with half an ounce of
+candied cherries and half an ounce of angelica--the cherries split and
+the angelica cut. Melt an ounce of gelatine and two ounces of sugar in a
+gill of water; stir it into the custard with a gill of thick cream; stir
+till cool; then add an ounce more cherries, half an ounce of angelica,
+and half an ounce of citron, all chopped small. Pour this gently into
+the mould you have decorated, set on ice, turn out and serve.
+
+_Cold Cabinet Pudding._--Ornament the bottom of a pint mould with
+candied cherries and angelica; split half a dozen lady-fingers; line the
+sides of the mould very evenly with them, arranging them alternately
+back and front against the mould; put in two ounces of ratafias (these
+are tiny macaroons about the size of a five-cent piece, of high flavor,
+and to be obtained at the pastry-cooks’ who make foreign specialties;
+some grocers also import them); put four yolks of eggs into a bowl; stir
+them; then add half a pint of milk; pour this custard into a double
+boiler, and stir until it thickens, taking care that it does not curdle.
+Melt half an ounce of gelatine in a very little water; strain it to the
+custard. When the latter cools, add half a gill of thick, fresh cream,
+two ounces of sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla; mix all well, and
+pour carefully into the mould without disturbing the lining of cake. Put
+the mould on ice, and, when set, turn out and serve.
+
+
+
+
+XXVI.
+
+CREAMS AND FROZEN PUDDINGS.
+
+
+Nut creams, with the exception of almond, are not very well known, but
+are so delicious that they ought to be. One reason perhaps is that it is
+not generally known that kernels of nuts, such as hazel-nuts, walnuts,
+hickory-nuts, etc., can be bought by the pound at confectioners’ supply
+stores. This, of course, saves the tedious work of cracking and
+shelling. To use with creams or for frozen puddings the nuts must be
+pounded very well, with very little white of egg--just enough to moisten
+and render the process easy.
+
+_Cocoanut Cream._--Grate a fresh, sweet cocoanut (having first peeled,
+washed, and wiped it _dry_); mix with it an ounce of sugar; melt in as
+little water as possible three quarters of an ounce of gelatine; whip
+the whites of three eggs, mix them with half a pint of milk, and stir
+over the fire until the custard thickens; sweeten with four
+tablespoonfuls of sugar. Stir the gelatine and a full half-pint of
+grated cocoanut with the cocoanut milk into the custard. Whip half a
+pint of thick cream solid, and stir it very carefully into the custard;
+when the latter is quite cold, but before it sets, flavor with a little
+vanilla or lemon extract. Mould and set on ice.
+
+_Hazel-nut Cream._--Put a pint of hazel-nut kernels into a cool oven
+until they are thoroughly dry and rather hot (they must not become too
+hot, or they will change flavor); then rub them between two coarse
+cloths to get rid of as much as possible of the skin (it cannot be
+entirely removed); blow away the loose hulls, and pound the nuts to a
+paste with a little white of egg. Make a custard with the yolks of three
+eggs and half a pint of milk; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a
+gill of water, mix with six ounces of powdered sugar, and add to the
+custard when nearly cool. Stir in the hazel-nut paste, taking care that
+it is well mixed with the custard, and add a half-pint of cream whipped
+solid; flavor with vanilla, or you may omit flavoring, the hazel-nut
+being sufficient for many people. Mould and set on ice.
+
+This cream and the two that follow are flecked with brown, for which
+reason it may be colored brown with caramel, although I prefer it
+uncolored, the specks being no more objectionable than the vanilla seeds
+one rejoices to see in ice-cream.
+
+_Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream._--Pound one pint of either of these nuts,
+after rubbing them well in a cloth, make the same custard as for
+hazel-nut cream, stir in the walnut or hickory-nut paste till smooth,
+add the whipped cream, color a pale pink with cochineal, and flavor
+faintly with rum or vanilla. Mould, set on ice, and serve with whipped
+cream flavored slightly with rum.
+
+_Bohemian Jelly Creams._--These may be made of any flavor, according to
+the jelly you use. It may be jelly of fruit or liqueur. If fresh fruit
+is used for jelly, the juice must be expressed, and well-sweetened
+gelatine added in the proportion of an ounce to the pint. If jam or
+marmalade is used, a pint of water is added and the same amount of
+gelatine, with the juice of half a lemon to the pint. Water, jam, and
+dissolved gelatine must be mixed quickly and passed through a sieve;
+either must be stirred in a bowl set in ice till quite cold and
+beginning to thicken; then stir in gently and quickly three-quarters of
+a pint of cream whipped solid; pour the mixture into the mould, which
+must be set in ice. Cover well, and keep on ice till needed.
+
+_Frangipanni Iced Pudding._--Grate six ounces of almond paste to crumbs;
+then on a smaller grater grate four or six bitter almonds blanched and
+dried; pound a dozen candied orange-flower petals with three-quarters of
+a pound of powdered sugar; put all into a stewpan with the yolks of
+eight eggs, and beat them very well together. In another stewpan have a
+pint and a half of boiling milk, which must be poured over the other
+ingredients by degrees, keeping them well stirred. Place it over the
+fire, stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon;
+rub this all through a coarse sieve, add a glass of sherry, and when
+cold pour the mixture into the freezer; when half frozen add a pint and
+a half of whipped cream, and when quite frozen fill a pudding mould,
+bury it in ice and salt, and serve as you would Nesselrode pudding.
+
+_Iced Cabinet Pudding._--Cut a stale sponge cake into slices half an
+inch thick and rather smaller than the mould you intend to use for the
+pudding; lay the slices of cake to soak in brandy flavored with noyau;
+decorate the bottom and sides of the mould with candied fruits, split
+cherries, angelica rings, the same of green oranges, and little diamonds
+of ginger, with a few whole ratafias, dipping them in jelly to make
+them adhere; lay in one slice of cake, then cherries and ratafias,
+another slice of cake, and so on, until the mould is three parts full.
+Make a quart of custard with six yolks of eggs, three tablespoonfuls of
+sugar, and an ounce of gelatine; when this is cold pour part into the
+mould, which must close hermetically; pack it in salt and ice for at
+least two hours; when you wish to turn it out, dip it a minute in
+lukewarm water. Keep the remaining custard on ice, flavor it with sherry
+or rum, beat it up, pour it around the pudding, and strew it with
+chopped pistachio-nuts.
+
+_Ice Pudding._--Make a custard with a pint and a half of milk, one whole
+egg and the yolks of four others, and a quarter of a pound of sugar;
+when cold, add half a glass of brandy, a glass of maraschino, an ounce
+of citron cut fine, a quarter of a pound of dried fruits, and an ounce
+of pistachio-nuts, the fruits cut up in small pieces, the pistachio-nuts
+blanched and split; mix well; and lastly add half a pint of whipped
+cream. When well frozen, pack into a pudding mould, and bury in ice and
+salt till wanted.
+
+_Bombay Ice Pudding._--Line a plain mould with Roman-punch ice an inch
+thick, keeping it bedded nearly to the brim in ice and salt while you do
+it; then fill the centre with the following mixture: a pint of cocoanut
+grated very fine, mixed with a pint of ice-cream; take great care that
+the cocoanut is ice-cold before you mix it in, or it will melt the
+ice-cream. When the mould is filled within an inch of the top, cover it
+with Roman punch, close the mould hermetically, and bury in ice. These
+puddings, where two kinds of ice are used, must only be attempted after
+one has learned to pack plain ice-cream with success.
+
+_Iced Jelly Pudding._--Make a custard with a pint of boiling cream,
+three ounces of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs beaten; pour the cream
+to the eggs very carefully, stirring it in by degrees. Have ready a
+quarter of an ounce of gelatine dissolved in very little milk, mix it
+in, and put the vessel containing the custard in a stewpan of boiling
+water, and stir till it just thickens; then whisk it until nearly cold.
+Mask a quart mould with jelly an inch thick--any favorite _red_ jelly,
+or a pale one tinted. Directions have already been given how the inside
+of a mould is to be coated with jelly. There is an easier but
+extravagant way, namely, to fill the mould with jelly, then scoop out
+the centre neatly, leaving a shell of jelly an inch thick. The centre,
+of course, might be made hot and bottled for another occasion, or to
+make Bohemian cream jellies. When the mould is masked, fill it with the
+custard, which must be half frozen; then cover securely, and pack in ice
+and salt at least five hours before it is served.
+
+
+
+
+XXVII.
+
+ICED PUDDINGS.
+
+
+_Filbert and Wine Iced Pudding._--To one pint of cream put four
+tablespoonfuls of sugar and two glasses of fine sherry. The cream must
+be perfectly sweet, but should be at least twenty-four hours old, and be
+ice cold. Whip this solid; then freeze. Put a pint of filberts in a cool
+oven till the skins will nearly all rub off; put them between two coarse
+cloths, and rub as much as possible of the brown coating off them; pound
+them to a paste with a little thick cream, mix four ounces of sugar with
+the nuts, and then blend the whole with enough thick custard to make a
+very thick batter; flavor with lemon or vanilla, or not, as you choose;
+freeze. Line a plain mould with the frozen wine cream an inch thick;
+then fill in the centre with the frozen filberts well pressed in; cover
+tight, and pack in ice and salt for three hours, or until wanted. This
+pudding can be made of walnuts and port-wine cream.
+
+_Iced Custard with Fruit._--Flavor one pint of cream with any liqueur
+you prefer; beat twelve eggs thoroughly; strain them; boil the cream
+with five ounces of sugar, and when it is just off the boil pour it,
+little by little, to the eggs; add a quarter of an ounce of gelatine
+that has been dissolved in very little water and strained to the
+custard; whisk until cold; have ready a mould masked with candied
+fruits. To mask, set the mould in a pan of cracked ice, and dip each
+piece of fruit in strong melted jelly; build up from the bottom of the
+mould having all the fruits, cut about the thickness of a split candied
+cherry and near the size, arranged with a view to a good effect when the
+mould shall be turned out. Half freeze the custard, and pour it in the
+mould three inches high; throw in some of the trimmings of candied
+fruit chopped fine. When set, add more custard, then more fruit, until
+the mould is full. Let it stand in ice at least five hours before it is
+wanted.
+
+_Rice à la Princesse._--Let some rice swell in water until quite tender;
+proportion, one cup of rice to two (scant) of water; then butter a
+saucepan; put the rice into it, with half a pint of milk; let it stew
+gently till it will mash; the milk must have all been absorbed; sweeten
+with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Mix with this a gill of apricot jam,
+a teaspoonful of vanilla, and half a pint of whipped cream; freeze; when
+well frozen, pack in a mould and bury in ice and salt. Pound a dozen
+macaroons; stir them into a pint of whipped cream; let the mixture be
+put on ice. When the pudding is turned out of the mould, cover with the
+macaroon cream, and decorate the dish with cubes of peach or apricot
+jelly.
+
+_Chocolate Cream Pudding._--Boil a quarter of a pound of the finest
+vanilla chocolate in half a pint of milk, whisking it well till it
+boils; dissolve in it two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Beat three
+half-pints of cream and three tablespoonfuls of sugar solid while the
+chocolate cools; when it is _ice_ cold mix in one half the beaten cream,
+and freeze. Line a plain mould with the frozen chocolate (the remainder
+of the whipped cream should have been kept in cracked ice and salt, so
+as to be ice cold); fill up the centre of the mould with the cream,
+cover tight, and bury in salt and ice.
+
+_Ice-Creams and Ices._--There are so many ways of making ice-cream, that
+all one can do is to indicate the one or two best, and certainly the
+_very_ best is the simplest, and there is no dessert so easy to prepare
+in hot weather as this, since there is no work over the fire. The only
+trouble is breaking the ice and turning the machine for some twenty
+minutes, which can be done by a child.
+
+_Simplest Fruit Ice-Cream._--Mash two pounds of strawberries or
+raspberries, put to them half a pound of powdered sugar, and let them
+remain in a cold place two or three hours, so that the juice may run;
+then, strain the juice to a quart of thick sweet cream and another half
+pound of sugar, with the juice of half a lemon; stir, and pour cream and
+fruit juice into the freezer, which must be packed with ice and
+rock-salt in about equal quantities, the ice being broken quite small.
+Let the cream remain standing in the freezer a few minutes before you
+begin to turn; then freeze, letting off the water, and filling anew with
+ice and salt if necessary. Stir the cream down as it forms, and keep on
+turning five or ten minutes after it is actually necessary. This extra
+working insures that extreme smoothness characteristic of Italian and
+French ice-cream. If you are not expert in freezing, be satisfied not to
+pack your cream in a mould for the first few times. Take out the paddle
+of the freezer, press the ice compactly down in the freezer, cover, and
+see that the ice and salt are sufficient and free from water. In two
+hours you can turn the ice out of the freezer in a round column or loaf
+that will be quite as sightly as the oblong square one frequently gets
+from the caterer. Many people think that simply freezing the pure cream
+produces the loose, frothy cream found at inferior confectioners’, but
+this is not the case; pure cream frozen results in a firm smooth mass
+which cuts like butter.
+
+I have given the formula for raspberry and strawberry cream only, but
+any fruit juice may be substituted, varying the quantity of sugar as
+required.
+
+When it is desirable to freeze the fruit in the cream instead of the
+juice, it must not be added until the cream is frozen. Stir in
+raspberries, strawberries, chopped pineapple, banana, or peaches just
+before the ice is ready to pack down; otherwise the fruit, being full of
+water, will freeze into hard knots.
+
+_Tutti-frutti Ice-Cream_ being made from chopped candied fruit, this
+precaution is not necessary; the fruit may be added at any time during
+the freezing, or stirred in last, as you please.
+
+I have given the simplest and best method of making ice-cream, yet the
+way most in use is to add custard; and French cooks always use “méringue
+paste,� claiming that it insures a smoothness and lightness nothing else
+can give.
+
+_Custard for Ice-Cream._--This is made as any other custard, except that
+double the amount of sugar is allowed for everything that is to be
+frozen. It may be made of from three to six eggs to a pint of milk, as
+you prefer. This must be ice cold before you put it in the freezer.
+
+_Ice-Cream with Eggs._--One pint of milk, three eggs, leaving out one
+white, half a pound of sugar (if acid fruit is to be added, it may
+require more for some tastes). Make a custard of these materials, and
+half freeze it; then add a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir in well and
+finish freezing, turning the handle some few minutes after it gets
+pretty stiff, if there is a strong enough hand near to do it.
+
+In making varieties of ice-cream you have only to consider the fitness
+of the articles you use; for instance, any sort of fruit may be added,
+with the exception of lemons. Fleshy fruits, such as pineapple, peaches,
+pears, etc., are usually mixed with the cream uncooked in this country;
+abroad this is only done with soft fruits, such as raspberries,
+blackberries, oranges, and such as will mash through a colander. Others
+are very slightly stewed in rich syrup (as nearly their own juice as
+possible), then pulped and mixed through when the cream is nearly
+frozen.
+
+In winter, fruit jams, and especially jellies, are very pleasant in
+ice-cream; they always require a little lemon juice to restore some of
+the natural sharpness of fresh fruit. A tumbler of red currant jelly
+turned into a pint of ice-cream is delicious, and gives a pretty, faint
+pink tint. The method is just the same whether for custard and cream or
+cream alone.
+
+The méringue paste alluded to as used by foreign confectioners is made
+by beating the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar
+until stiff.
+
+_Grilled Almond Ice-Cream._--Make a quart of ice-cream; grill some
+almonds in the following way: Blanch four ounces of almonds, dry them in
+a hot spot till they are brittle; then put in a thick saucepan or sauté
+pan four ounces of sugar and a gill of water; let them boil five
+minutes; throw in the almonds; stir them till part of the sugar adheres
+and they begin to turn yellow. Take them up, chop them, and when quite
+cold stir them into the ice-cream, which should be flavored with
+vanilla.
+
+
+
+
+XXVIII.
+
+ICE-CREAMS AND WATER-ICES.
+
+
+To those very fond of tea, ice-cream made with it is very acceptable,
+and is very much used at English garden parties.
+
+_Tea Ice-Cream._--To one pound of granulated sugar put a pint of strong
+green tea, a pint and a half of cream, and two quarts of rich milk, and
+a very little cinnamon water. Let the whole simmer one minute, not
+stirring, but keeping the mixture in motion by gently swinging the
+saucepan. Freeze as usual. This recipe may be used for coffee and
+chocolate; it will make a large quantity, and for a medium-sized family
+one quarter will suffice.
+
+_Chinese Ice._--Beat the yolks of fifteen eggs with three quarters of a
+pound of powdered sugar; pound four ounces of pistachio-nuts (blanched)
+with the white of an egg; put to it three gills of water; stir it over
+the fire in a double boiler till it is as thick as cream; take great
+care that it does not boil. Color it green, or part green and part
+yellow; flavor as you please; cut up a couple of candied Chinese oranges
+small and a little preserved ginger, and freeze.
+
+_Water-Ices._--These are exceedingly simple, and no more elegant form of
+refreshment can be offered than a plate of well-frozen or a tumbler of
+half-frozen water-ice. It is acceptable when ice-cream would be too
+heavy, and can be offered at the simplest country afternoon tea, or
+during a call, without the seeming ostentation of ice-cream.
+
+_Ginger Water-Ice_ (to serve as a beverage if preferred).--Take six
+ounces of preserved ginger, free from fibre; pound it; make two quarts
+of lemonade by paring eight or ten lemons so thinly that the knife-blade
+shows through the yellow; put the peel of three in a pitcher with a
+pound and a quarter of sugar; pour two quarts of boiling water on them,
+and cover; squeeze and strain the juice from the lemons, add to the
+water, and when cold stir in the pounded ginger, with the méringue paste
+made with the whites of four eggs. Freeze it. If for drinking, only half
+freeze, work only enough to make it like half-melting snow, and use only
+sugar enough to make a refreshing drink. Italians call this _granito_,
+and it is a form of ice not often met with in this country.
+
+_Pineapple Water-Ice._--This can be readily made of canned pineapple
+when the fresh fruit is out of season. Peel a pineapple; grate it into a
+mortar; then pound it well with six ounces of sugar; let it stand
+covered for an hour; add the juice of five oranges, and a pint and a
+half of syrup boiled to the little thread, or _à lissé_. (This syrup is
+much used in making water-ices, punches, etc. It is sugar and water
+boiled till it forms a little thread between thumb and finger.) Mix well
+and freeze. If canned fruit is used, you need less sugar, and
+substitute lemon for half the orange juice.
+
+_Almond Water-Ice._--Take one pound of almond paste, a pint and a half
+of water, and three quarters of a pound of sugar; grate the paste; then
+stir till quite dissolved. Flavor with vanilla or raspberry; stir in the
+whites of two eggs and some candied fruits cut up small. Freeze as
+usual.
+
+_Cinnamon Water-Ice._--This is a German ice, and very much liked by
+those who are fond of the flavor. Pound an ounce of the finest quality
+of cinnamon in the stick, put it into a pint and a half of boiling
+water, and cover it well; when it is cold add a quart of syrup (the
+little thread) and the well-beaten whites of two eggs, and freeze it.
+
+_Pistachio Water-Ice._--Blanch and pound a pound of pistachio-nuts,
+using the white of an egg to moisten; mix with a quart of syrup _à
+lissé_. Heighten the color, if too pale, with spinach coloring, and
+flavor to taste. (Pistachio-nuts have no flavor of their own,
+astonishing as the fact may seem to those who have heard frequently of
+pistachio flavor.) Freeze as usual.
+
+_Apricot Water-Ice._--There is no more delicious water-ice than this if
+fine-flavored apricots are used. The canned ones are excellent for the
+purpose. Pulp two pounds of apricots through a sieve or jelly press;
+grate or pound very fine five or six bitter almonds; mix with the pulp
+the juice of the apricots (from the can), and a pint and a half of
+syrup, and the beaten whites of three eggs made into a paste with three
+tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar; stir all well, and freeze. This ice
+ought to be the color of apricots; if too pale, add a very little
+saffron coloring.
+
+_Currant Water-Ice._--A pint of currant juice, a pint of syrup, and the
+whites of three eggs made into méringue paste. Freeze as usual. Any of
+these water-ices can be half frozen as _graniti_, and served in glasses
+as _granito_, the only exceptions being the almond and pistachio
+water-ices.
+
+_Graniti_ are also made of various kinds of light punches by adding to a
+quart of the usual punch recipe a quart of sweetened water. Any summer
+beverage made from fruit juice can be turned into a _granito_, by half
+freezing, in either of the following ways:
+
+_To Freeze Graniti._--Mix the beverage you intend to freeze, for
+instance, we will say, a pint of very strong, clear, bright coffee and
+half a pint of syrup _à lissé_. Put them into the freezer and turn; as
+it becomes frozen up the sides, scrape it down with a spoon, and
+remember, as soon as it resembles snowy water (not white, of course) it
+is frozen enough. It must be just liquid enough to pour out.
+
+There is a second way of freezing _graniti_ by which they can be put on
+the table in the vessel in which they were frozen. Place the mixture in
+wide-mouthed water-bottles, twirl them round in ice and salt, and, as
+the contents become frozen on the inside of the bottle, scrape down
+with a narrow wooden stick or spatula. When frozen in perfection the
+bottle should seem half filled with tiny crystals.
+
+_Claret Granito._--To one pint of orangeade add a bottle of claret. Half
+freeze.
+
+_Sherry Granito._--To one quart of lemonade add a bottle of sherry, and
+freeze.
+
+The housekeeper who lives far from a large city will need materials for
+many of the recipes given in these papers and others which she will meet
+with in books on high-class cooking. Many of these can be sent for by
+mail, and all, of course, by express; but it will often not seem worth
+while to send perhaps for one small bottle that we may lack. For this
+reason I give a few directions for preparing very tolerable imitations
+of liqueurs, which, however, unless it were a question of economy, it
+might not be worth while doing if within reach of stores.
+
+_Curaçoa._--Pare a dozen and a half of dead-ripe oranges so thin that
+you can see the knife pass under the rind; pound one dram of finest
+cinnamon and half a dram of mace; put them to steep for fifteen days in
+a gallon of pure alcohol, shaking it every day. Make a clarified syrup
+of four pounds of sugar and one quart of water well boiled and skimmed;
+add this to the curaçoa. Rub up in a mortar one dram of potash with a
+teaspoonful of the liqueur; when well mixed add it, and then do the same
+with a dram of alum. Shake well, and in an hour or two filter through
+thin muslin. It will be ready for use in a a week.
+
+_Maraschino._--Bruise two ounces of cherry kernels and one of bitter
+almonds; put them in a deep jar with the thin outer rind of twelve
+oranges and five lemons. Steep in one gallon of English gin or alcohol.
+Let the whole stand a fortnight, then filter and bottle.
+
+_Ratafia._--Blanch the kernels of uncooked peaches or apricots, and when
+you have two ounces pound them, and pour to them a quart of gin or
+alcohol and the thin yellow rind of two lemons. Sweeten with a pound of
+white sugar-candy, and leave the whole for two months; then filter and
+bottle for use.
+
+_Candied Orange and Lemon Peels._--These are invaluable both as
+decoration for certain desserts and for culinary purposes, and as they
+are not always to be found except in the larger cities, the method of
+preparing them is here given: Throw the peels into salt and water, all
+pulp being removed, but the white part must be left untouched; in fact,
+the thicker the peel the better for the purpose, thin-skinned oranges
+being of no use for candying. Let them remain in the salt and water from
+nine days to three weeks; then wash them, put them on the fire in cold
+water, and let them boil till perfectly tender, yet they must not be
+mushy. During the time they are boiling change the water until it no
+longer tastes salt. Lemon-peels may take from three to four hours’
+boiling, orange-peels less; but remember, should the lemon-peel not be
+quite tender, it will harden when it goes into syrup, and instead of a
+rich sweetmeat there will be only woody chips. Drain the peels, and make
+a thin syrup of a pint of water to each pound of sugar. Let it boil five
+minutes; then throw in the peels; they must boil gently in this until
+they are clear and the syrup has become thick--almost boiled away, in
+fact. Now make another syrup, half a pint of water to two pounds of
+sugar; let it boil till clear and till there is a short hair from the
+fork. Now put in the peels (which must have been drained from the other
+syrup); remove from the fire; stir them round till the syrup looks
+whitish; then lift each piece out and lay it on a dish on which
+granulated sugar has been freely sprinkled.
+
+Both orange and lemon peels are candied by the same process, but they
+must never be put in the same vessel of salt and water, nor must they be
+candied together, or the distinctive flavors would be lost.
+
+
+
+
+XXIX.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.
+
+
+Under this head I intend to give a few sweets that seem to me unusually
+good, although they may not always be novel, except in manner of
+serving. A compote of fruit has nothing new about it, yet by the way in
+which it is served it may simply be “stewed fruit,� or it may be a dish
+fit to find a place even in choice cookery.
+
+In making compotes great care must be taken to preserve the shape and
+color of the fruits. In order to do this they must be quickly peeled and
+dipped into strong lemon juice and water, and dropped into syrup in
+which also a little lemon juice has been squeezed. Pass the blade of the
+knife over its own marks to obliterate the appearance of peeling.
+Peaches and apricots may be boiled up without peeling, and (unless they
+are allowed to get too soft) the skins will be removed easily. It will
+be observed that hard fruits such as apples are simmered in thin syrup
+to get tender, while rich soft fruits are dropped into syrup boiled to
+candy height.
+
+_Apple Compote_ No. 1.--Cut up and boil half a dozen apples in a pint of
+water. When they are quite soft strain the juice from them without
+squeezing; put to it half a pound of granulated sugar and the zest of a
+lemon (the zest is the peel so thin that the knife blade can be seen,
+through it while paring), together with the juice. Let this syrup boil
+for a minute; skim it. Then pare half a dozen fine cooking apples; core
+them; let them boil gently in the syrup until quite tender, but not in
+danger of breaking. Take them up on a perforated skimmer. When cold, put
+the apples into a compote dish. Boil the juice to a jelly; pour part of
+it over the apples; dip a plate in cold water, drain it, and then pour
+out the rest of the jelly into it: it should only cover it about the
+thickness of thick paper. When stiff, warm the under-side of the plate
+_very slightly_, pass a broad thin knife under, and lay the sheet of
+jelly over the apples in the compote dish.
+
+_Apple Compote_ No. 2.--Prepare the apples as in last recipe, but before
+the last sheet of jelly is laid over them ornament with rings and leaves
+of angelica, and any red jelly or preserve cut in thin slices and
+stamped out with tiny tin cutters in leaves, stars, or fancy shapes
+(stiff red currant jelly of red quince may be used); decorate thus each
+apple; then lay the thin sheet of apple jelly over all.
+
+_Compote of Stuffed Apples._--Prepare the apples as in the foregoing
+recipes, taking care to core them all through without splitting the
+apple. When the apples are done, fill the centre with orange marmalade
+or apricot preserve. Boil the syrup down till it will glaze; pour it
+over the apples when they are ice-cold, the syrup also only warm enough
+to remain liquid. By this means the rich coating will remain over the
+apples, while if both were warm it would run off.
+
+_Compote of Apples or Pears Grillé._--If you have any apples or pears
+left from a compote (or you may, of course, prepare them especially),
+put them into a frying or sauté pan over a brisk fire; put with them any
+syrup there may be and a cup of sugar just dissolved in water; boil
+rapidly down to a pale caramel, rolling the apples with a fork so that
+they become covered with the caramel. Take great care that the syrup
+does not burn; remove it from the fire the moment it begins to change
+color. The apples should now have an even glossy surface; as each is
+finished put it at once into the compotier. Pour a little curaçoa syrup
+round just before sending to table.
+
+_Compote of Apple Marmalade._--This is not so troublesome to make as it
+sounds, especially to any one who has made glacé nuts--a very general
+accomplishment nowadays. Reduce some apple marmalade by leaving it for
+an hour or two in a double boiler; the water boiling round it will
+evaporate moisture without danger of burning. Stir occasionally, and
+when the marmalade is so reduced that it will make a firm paste when
+cold (try a little in a saucer on ice), color one half pink with
+cochineal. Spread half an inch thick on plates slightly oiled; when
+stiff and cold, cut out the marmalade into squares, ovals, diamonds,
+leaves, etc., with tin cutters. Boil a pound of sugar with a gill of
+water to the crack--that is, until a teaspoonful dropped in ice-water
+will crack between the teeth. Oil a fork and a large dish, and use the
+fork to drop the pieces of marmalade into the candy; lift them out
+quickly, and lay them on the dish, which will be better if it is set on
+ice. When they are cold, dish them in a pyramid, the pink to contrast
+with the white effectively. Pour a little liqueur-flavored syrup round
+the base of the fruit.
+
+_Compote of Pears (white)._--Use any fine-flavored dessert pears. Cut
+them in halves, core, pare, and trim neatly, and simmer them in syrup (a
+pound of sugar and juice of half a lemon to a pint of water) till they
+are tender, yet firm to the touch. Dish the pieces, keeping them close
+to each other. Lay a thin sheet of apple jelly over them, and the syrup,
+boiled down till rich and thick, round them.
+
+_A Pink Compote_ is prepared in the same way, the only difference being
+that a very few drops of cochineal are added to the syrup before the
+pears go in. Decorate with angelica.
+
+_Pears à la Princesse._ Select seven pears of the best quality, without
+blemish, and of equal size; pare them with great care; stand them close
+together in a saucepan, with weak acidulated syrup to cover them; simmer
+slowly till quite tender, but yet firm to the touch; take them up,
+leaving the syrup to boil down. When cold, cut the stalk end off each
+pear about an inch deep, or so as to leave about an inch of surface, on
+which place a ring of angelica (simply cut angelica crosswise and it
+forms rings, being tubular); if the rings are flattened, lay them in
+syrup; when softened bend them round and lay one on each pear; then, if
+in season, dip a fine strawberry or stoned red cherry in the hot syrup
+and lay it on the ring of angelica. Cut strips of angelica and run them
+through the strawberry down to the pear, both to hold the decoration in
+place and to represent the stalk; dish them standing; when dished up,
+pour some syrup, boiled till thick and rich, over the seven pears. When
+fresh fruit is not in season for decoration, use candied cherries.
+
+_Variegated Compote of Pears._--This is a pretty dish. Prepare some
+pears as in the last recipe, except that the tops are not to be cut off;
+color half the number a pale pink by adding a few drops of cochineal to
+the syrup in which they are simmered; dress them alternately, a pink
+pear and a white one, in the compotier; pour over each the pink and
+white syrup in which they were cooked, and pour syrup flavored with
+vanilla round them.
+
+_Compote of Oranges._--Divide six oranges in halves; first cut out the
+centre string of pith, pick all pips out carefully, and with a very
+sharp knife pare off the peel of the orange down to the naked
+transparent pulp; in this way you get rid of the whole of the white
+outside skin. Place the halves as you do them in a bowl; pour over them
+some hot syrup boiled _à lissé_, flavored with orange peel, rubbed with
+lump sugar, and previously dissolved in the syrup; a very little lemon
+juice should be added if the oranges are very sweet. Let them steep a
+few minutes; then remove them; then build the oranges into a pyramid on
+the compotier, and the last thing before going to table pour the syrup,
+well boiled and cold, over them.
+
+_Chestnut Compote._--Take the largest French or Spanish chestnuts, make
+slits in the peel, and boil till tender; take off the shell, and press
+them flat without breaking; lay them in a saucepan; pour over them
+thick syrup; put them in the oven, but do not let them boil; when they
+look quite clear take them up, put them into the compotier, boil the
+syrup to candy height, squeeze into the compotier the juice of an
+orange, and pour the candy over the chestnuts.
+
+_Chestnut Compote_ No. 2.--Prepare the nuts as in last recipe; put the
+yolks of three eggs in a saucepan; stir gradually to them a pint of
+cream; cook a quarter of a pound of sugar to the crack, with a few dried
+orange flowers; the minute the candy begins to get yellowish pour it
+into the cream, stirring constantly, and let it come to boiling-point;
+then strain the cream over the chestnuts.
+
+
+
+
+XXX.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.--_Continued._
+
+
+Strawberries, raspberries, currants, etc., need very little cooking, and
+that little in high candy. If it is understood that strong syrup tends
+to make fruit firm, and weak syrup to make it tender, it will be seen
+why all soft fruit, in order to keep its shape, should be dropped into
+candy boiled till brittle, and why apples and other hard fruits should
+be first stewed in weak syrup until soft; yet there are degrees; for
+instance, hard peaches require thin syrup, and very luscious ones must
+be put into syrup that is very near candy. This is also the case with
+pears. Be guided as to the strength of the syrup by the kind of fruit.
+Avoid fruit that is very ripe, because the syrup from it will not jelly
+readily.
+
+_Compote of Strawberries._--Select a quart of fine large berries, rather
+under than over ripe; boil three quarters of a pound of sugar to the
+crack; drop the strawberries into the syrup after it is removed from the
+fire; return them to the range; let them boil gently once; take out the
+berries most carefully with the skimmer; lay them on the compotier; boil
+the syrup fast, skimming it carefully then pour it over the fruit.
+
+_Compote of Cherries_ is made in the same way, with the finest red
+cherries, only they require to boil up several times. When clear, drain
+them with the skimmer; lay them in the compote dishes; add a gill of red
+currant juice to the syrup; boil it till it is a weak jelly; then throw
+it over the cherries when nearly cold.
+
+_Orange Baskets Filled with Fruits._--Select seven oranges, not too
+large, but all the same size. With a very sharp knife pare the fruit as
+thin as possible--so thin that it still remains yellow, and only the
+shining outer surface is removed (in fact, it may be lightly grated
+off, but that is more trouble), to render them transparent; cut two
+quarters out of the upper part of the orange, so as to leave a narrow
+band half an inch wide, which will form the handle; pass the knife
+carefully round inside the band, so as to remove the strip of pulp. With
+the bowl of a teaspoon detach the remaining pulp from the inside without
+in any way damaging the shape of the basket. As you prepare them, drop
+them in a saucepan of cold water, and then put them into boiling water,
+and simmer three minutes gently. This is only to soften the peel and
+enable you to stamp out the edges with a perforating cutter, if you have
+one, which will give them an openwork effect; if not, just scallop them
+with scissors, and snip out a sort of trellis-work to increase the
+basket effect. Put them into a preserving-kettle with weak syrup _à
+lissé_, boil them gently till they look clear, then put them aside in
+the syrup till next day; boil the syrup twice alone at intervals of
+several hours, and throw it over the baskets. These baskets may be kept
+ready prepared for months by putting them in wide jars and covering them
+with syrup. When required for use, they must be taken out, drained
+thoroughly, and then filled with a variety of small fruits, such as
+cherries, strawberries, currants, etc., which have been mixed with a
+little apple or orange jelly. In winter, ambrosia--a mixture of cut-up
+banana, grated cocoa-nut, orange quarters, etc.--may be served in them,
+or a mixture of preserved fruits that are firm, such as Chinese oranges,
+limes, ginger, etc. In all cases serve them on a compote dish, and throw
+over them syrup flavored with maraschino.
+
+_Lemon Baskets_ are prepared precisely as the orange baskets, but they
+require longer boiling, and the syrup they are served with should be
+flavored with citronelle or the rasped peel of green limes.
+
+_Orange Baskets Glacé._--These are not much more trouble than the
+baskets simply preserved, but if successfully done they can be very
+effectively filled with candies or ice-cream. Prepare the baskets as in
+last recipe, drain them on a napkin, very carefully remove all moisture
+from the inside, and set them over a register, or in an oven with the
+door open, to dry. Boil two pounds of sugar with a pint of water and two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar till it begins to change color (this is some
+little time after the brittle stage is reached, and is called caramel);
+lightly oil the skimmer, and drop a basket in the candy; remove as
+quickly as possible, but see that the whole is well coated, yet has as
+little superfluous candy as possible, for which reason the baskets must
+be warm when they are dipped, also the skimmer. You must not leave the
+candy on the fire after it _begins_ to change color, but the work of
+coating the baskets had better be done quite near the fire, with the pot
+containing the candy on some part of it where it will be kept hot, but
+not cook. They must be slipped on to an oiled dish, and, needless to
+say, most carefully handled.
+
+Other baskets are made with nougat, others with pastry, and the Swiss
+make what they call _Vacherin_ with almond paste, and serve whipped
+cream in them; but the idea may be extended and improved upon by serving
+dried fruits or candies, or ice-cream in them, and they are a decided
+improvement on the paper baskets so often used for the last purpose,
+being eatable.
+
+_Swiss Vacherin._--Take half a pound of almond paste, three quarters of
+a pound of confectioners’ sugar, and the white of one egg. Shave the
+almond paste, stir the egg and sugar together, and flavor with a little
+orange-flower water or wine; work all together with the hand into a
+smooth, stiff paste that will roll out; if there is a disposition to
+crack or crumble, use more white of egg and almond paste. Roll it just
+as you would pie crust on the pastry board, using confectioners’ sugar
+in place of flour. Line small cups or tartlet moulds, or anything that
+will make a good form for baskets, which have been very slightly oiled.
+Put them aside to harden and dry. Chop a tablespoonful of blanched
+pistachio-nuts till they are as fine as corn-meal, mix with an equal
+quantity of granulated sugar. Trim the edges of the cups or baskets with
+scissors, turn them out of the moulds, very carefully dip the edges in a
+saucer containing white of egg beaten to liquid--the edges only need to
+be just wet. Have the chopped pistachio-nuts and sugar also in a saucer,
+dip the wet edge of the cup lightly into it, and shake gently. If
+properly done, the cups will now have a pretty green border. When these
+are filled with whipped cream, sweetened, flavored, and colored, they
+are called _Swiss Vacherin_. Filled with plain whipped cream, and the
+top covered with strawberries, they are called “Chantilly cups,� but
+they may be used in many decorative ways, to hold preserves or candied
+fruits, etc., etc.
+
+_Little China Dishes._--This quaint recipe is from the immortal Mrs.
+Glasse, and on trial was found so unique and agreeable a variety to our
+modern fancies that with some little changes to suit our present ideas I
+give the last-century dainty. If you have any pretty-shaped little tin
+dishes, without fluting, to mould and bake them in, they are very little
+trouble to make. Take the yolks of two eggs, two small tablespoonfuls of
+sherry, and one of rose-water, beat together only enough to mix, then
+use as much fine flour as will make a firm paste that can be rolled out
+exceedingly thin. Cover some nicely shaped little tins slightly
+buttered, press to the form, be careful the paste fits without creases,
+and bake in a cool oven. When the paste is crisp, with very little
+change of color, they are done. Do not touch them till they are cold, as
+they may be brittle. Stir the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of
+rose-water and confectioners’ sugar enough to make a smooth icing;
+squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and when the little dishes are
+cold, ice the under side only just thick enough to mask the pastry; when
+they are dry and hard, turn them over and ice the inside; do this with
+great smoothness, to look as much like porcelain as possible. If you
+choose, when the icing is quite hard, you can wet the edge of the dishes
+with white of egg and dip them in chopped pistachio-nuts and sugar, like
+the Chantilly baskets, or in nonpareils (the smallest size). They may be
+used to serve anything sweet, from jelly to candies.
+
+_Almond Trifles._--With the almond paste used for Chantilly cups many
+trifles may be made with very little trouble; for instance, mix a
+tablespoonful of flour with the paste; roll it out; cut into circles;
+pinch up two sides; place a little handle over the centre, and in each
+open end, which must be bent slightly upward, place a candied cherry.
+Or cut a number of thin strips of paste, stick them together in the
+middle with white of egg, pass a strip of almond paste round so that the
+strips look like fagots of sticks, let them just color in the oven, sift
+sugar over them, and put them away. The paste may be rolled as thick as
+a pipe-stem and tied in knots, the surface just moistened, and sugar
+sifted over them; these also must only just take color in the oven.
+These are only suggestions for using up the trimmings from the cups.
+
+
+
+
+XXXI.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.--_Continued._
+
+
+_Raspberry Charlotte Russe._--The simplest and quite the most effective
+way of making charlottes of any kind is the following: Take a strip of
+light cartridge or drawing paper from two to three inches wide, measure
+it round a mould the size you wish the charlotte to be, and cut it an
+inch larger; piece the two ends together, lapping an inch. Lay this
+paper circle on an ornamental dish (the one you wish to use), split
+lady-fingers, and stand them around it inside like a picket-fence, only
+as close together as they will go, inserting a pin from the outside
+through the paper and each cake as you do it. When you have lined the
+paper completely you will have a close frame of lady-fingers held in
+place by pins. Whip a pint of _perfectly sweet_ cream that is at least
+twenty-four hours old and has been thoroughly chilled on ice. Sweeten
+the cream with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and flavor it with
+a tablespoonful of raspberry _juice_ (not syrup) mixed with a
+tablespoonful of powdered sugar; sometimes the raspberry juice will
+color the cream a beautiful faint pink, which cannot be improved upon,
+but if it is not bright enough in tint stir in one or two drops of
+cochineal. If the weather is warm stand the vessel containing the cream
+in ice; then beat without stopping to skim the froth as it rises. In
+about ten to fifteen minutes the cream ought to be perfectly solid if
+all the conditions were observed, and the beating carried on in a cool,
+airy room. If, however, the cream is not solid enough to keep shape, set
+it on ice for an hour and beat again. Fill the centre of the frame of
+lady-fingers, piling it high; decorate either with chopped
+pistachio-nuts lightly sprinkled, or with rings of angelica. The
+raspberry _juice_ used for flavoring is to be obtained at first-class
+druggists’, where the best quality of soda-water is sold. It is
+unsweetened, and although I have kept it two or three months in cool
+weather, it often will not keep many weeks; it is therefore better to
+buy it by the gill or half-pint, if your druggist will sell it so, than
+to buy a large bottle, although it is so useful for making raspberry
+jelly, raspberry shrub, and many other things, that even a bottle is not
+likely to be wasted. It must not be confused with raspberry _syrup_,
+which is heavily sweetened, but not nearly so fragrant. Before serving
+the charlotte remove the pins and take the paper off.
+
+_Charlotte Russe with Gelatine._--Prepare a frame as in last recipe,
+also beat a pint of cream sweetened and flavored with wine or to taste;
+melt in a pint of milk half an ounce of gelatine. The French gelatine is
+very pure, easy to melt, and no more expensive than any other good kind,
+and for delicate uses preferable to them. Make the gelatine and milk
+into a custard with two eggs, sweeten with two tablespoonfuls of sugar,
+flavor to taste, and put to get cold, stirring it once in a while; when
+it begins to thicken round the sides of the vessel beat with the
+egg-beater till foamy. You have now a vessel of whipped custard and one
+of whipped cream, both cold; now mix the cream into the custard, a
+little at a time, giving the spoon a light upward movement; _do not stir
+it_; that deadens the cream; your object is to keep it light; when all
+is mixed, fill the frame of cake with the spongy mixture; decorate it
+either with drops and pipings of the mixture applied to the smooth
+surface, or with candied fruits cut into forms or various colored
+jellies.
+
+Of course a charlotte russe can be varied in many ways. It may be filled
+with the custard made with chocolate, and so be brown charlotte, or the
+filling may have apricot or currant jelly whipped into it with the
+gelatine; this is an admirable change.
+
+_Almond Turban._--Make half a pound of fine puff-paste, give it nine
+turns, roll it the last time to the thickness of a dollar; have ready
+half a pound of almonds, blanched and chopped; put them in a bowl with
+half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, adding a very
+little more if the icing is too stiff to spread; spread the almond icing
+on the pastry as thick as a twenty-five-cent piece; with a sharp knife
+cut the pastry into strips two and a half inches long and one in
+breadth; bake these in a moderate oven a very pale brown; make a circle
+on a dish of some _firm_ marmalade or jam; when the almond cakes are
+cold, dress them in a crown on the jam, which serves to keep them in
+place; fill the centre of the turban with vanilla ice-cream or simple
+whipped cream.
+
+_Fine Small Cakes for Dessert._--It may not be worth the while of a busy
+housekeeper within reach of a first-class confectioner’s to make these,
+because, although when of fine quality they are always expensive, yet
+they are also tedious to make. Many, however, live in country towns,
+where there is no possibility of obtaining anything better than the
+sandy products of the country bakery.
+
+A few really fine cakes can be made at a time, and kept in an air-tight
+box, with layers of paper between, for some time. In speaking, however,
+of the tediousness I would not discourage the reader, for there are few
+more tedious things in cooking than the rolling out, making, and baking
+of thin cookies or ginger-snaps, and the result attained so inadequate.
+
+_Rout Biscuits._--Boil a pound of sugar in half a pint of milk; grate
+into it the rind of a lemon when cold; rub half a pound of butter into a
+pound and a half of flour and a pound of almond paste grated fine; put
+as much carbonate of soda as would lie on a silver dime into the milk,
+and mix with the flour and almond paste; beat two eggs, and make the
+whole into a firm, smooth paste; print this paste with very small
+butter moulds if you have them, making little cakes just like the tiny
+pats of butter one gets at city restaurants. Bake on a well-buttered pan
+in a quick oven a very pale yellow.
+
+_Macaroons._--These must be exempted from the charge of being tedious,
+they are so easily and quickly made. One pound of almond paste grated,
+one pound and a half of sugar, and the whites of seven eggs. Some
+confectioners use a teaspoonful of flour, with the idea that the
+macaroons are not so apt to fall. I recommend a trial of both methods;
+they will both be good. Stir the sugar and the beaten white of eggs
+together just enough to mix, then by degrees add the grated paste,
+mashing with the back of a fork till it forms a perfectly smooth paste.
+Oil several sheets of paper cut to the size of your baking-pans.
+Dripping-pans may be used if you have no regular baking-sheets. Lay a
+sheet of paper at the bottom of the pan. Put half a teaspoonful of the
+macaroon paste on a scrap of buttered paper in the oven. If it spreads
+too much it requires a very little more sugar; if it does not spread at
+all, or so little as to leave the surface rough, it is too stiff, and
+requires perhaps _half_ the white of an egg, or the finger dipped in
+water and laid on each macaroon after they are on the paper is often
+sufficient--a little practice is all that is necessary. Lay the paste in
+half-teaspoonfuls on the oiled or greased paper. If the trial one
+indicated that they were slightly too stiff, lay a wet finger on each,
+sift powdered sugar over, and then put a pinch of chopped and blanched
+almonds in the centre with just enough pressure to keep them in place.
+As the macaroon spreads in the oven the almonds scatter themselves.
+
+Macaroons should be baked _about_ twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
+They must be taken out while they are a very pale brown, but they must
+also be quite “set,� or they will fall. If the oven is too quick they
+will brown too soon; in that case leave the oven door open, taking care
+that no cold draught can blow on the macaroons. You can tell if they
+have browned too quickly by the cracks in them being still white and
+sticky. When done both the cracks and surface should be the same pale
+color. The macaroons must be left five minutes in the pan after leaving
+the oven without being touched. At the end of that time they may be
+gently taken off the pans _on the papers_, from which they must not be
+detached until they are quite cold. Should they stick to the paper,
+moisten the back of it.
+
+_Fine Ginger Dessert Cakes._--Rub half a pound of fresh butter into
+three quarters of a pound of flour; beat three eggs with three quarters
+of a pound of powdered sugar and half a glass of rosewater, the grated
+peel of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of the best powdered ginger--use the
+ginger carefully, trying a level spoonful first. Then mix all into a
+paste. If the flavor of ginger is not strong enough, add more; they
+should taste well of it, without being hot in the mouth. Roll the paste
+a quarter of an inch thick, and cut into small oval or round cakes, sift
+powdered sugar over them, and bake rather slowly a very pale brown.
+
+
+
+
+XXXII.
+
+FINE CAKES AND SAUCES.
+
+
+_Madeleines._--Four ounces of butter, four ounces of the best flour,
+three ounces of sugar, a teaspoonful of orange-flower water, the yolks
+of four eggs, and rind of a lemon. Beat butter, sugar, and yolks of eggs
+together, then add the other ingredients; grate in the rind of half a
+lemon, and add the well-beaten whites of eggs last of all. Fill little
+moulds that have been buttered with washed butter, cover the tops with
+split almonds and sifted sugar; bake from thirty to forty minutes in a
+moderate oven. These cakes are sometimes served hot with apricot sauce.
+
+_Chestnut Croquettes._--Boil fifty sound chestnuts; take them out of the
+shells; reject all imperfect ones; keep the large pieces aside; pound
+the crumbs and most broken pieces with an ounce of butter till very
+smooth; then mix in a _small_ cup of cream two ounces of butter and one
+ounce of powdered sugar; put the whole into a double boiler, and stir in
+the beaten yolks of six eggs. Let the mixture set. When cool, make it
+into balls; in the centre of each ball put a piece of the chestnut you
+have laid aside, dip the balls in fine cracker meal and eggs, and fry a
+very pale yellow. Serve with sifted sugar.
+
+Very pretty cakes, very easily made, which come under the French term
+_petits fours_, may be given here.
+
+_Petits Fours._--Make rich cake mixture thus: Wash three quarters of a
+pound of butter to free it from excess of salt; squeeze it dry in a
+cloth; beat it with the hand till creamy; add three quarters of a pound
+of powdered sugar; beat till light; then beat in ten eggs, one by one,
+and sift in a pound of dried and sifted flour. When all are well beaten
+together, the paste or batter is ready for use. Line some shallow pans
+(those used for making rolled jelly-cake are best) with buttered paper;
+spread a layer of the mixture just as you would for jelly-cake, but much
+thicker, as when baked the sheets should not be more than the third of
+an inch thick. Bake slowly. When done, remove from the oven, but leave
+the cake undisturbed till cold. If the sheets are large, they may be cut
+exactly in half, spread thinly with some stiff marmalade or jelly;
+quince or apricot is best, but any rich flavor with some tartness will
+do; lay one half on the other, and press closely and very neatly
+together. Do each sheet of cake in the same way, varying the marmalade
+if you choose. Have ready a bowl of icing (either boiled French icing or
+what is called royal icing). Dust the top of the cakes with flour, which
+must be brushed off again, as it is only to absorb the grease. Flavor
+the icing with vanilla, and lay it on the centre of the cake; let it run
+over it, aiding with a knife dipped in water (shaking off the drops,
+however). The icing needs to be very neatly done, and must not be
+thicker than a twenty-five-cent piece. Now color the icing in the bowl
+pink, with a little cochineal, add a drop or two of extract of bitter
+almond or of lemon, either of which will agree with the vanilla that was
+in the white icing; then ice another sheet of cake in the same way; a
+third may be done with chocolate icing.
+
+The beauty of these cakes will depend on the way they are cut. You may
+choose to make them tablets an inch wide and three inches long, or in
+lozenge shape--the true diamond--but in either case the cutting must be
+exact. The best way to have it so is to mark the lines very lightly with
+the point of a penknife on the icing, using a measure. Trim off the edge
+of the cake with a sharp knife, so that it is neat all round, no excess
+of marmalade oozing out, or tears of icing running down. Then warm a
+sharp carving-knife (I am supposing the cake is on a board), and cut
+through the lines you have marked, without hesitation, so that there
+may be no crumbs or roughness, which slow, over-careful cutting causes.
+When cut up you should have, if neatly done, an assortment of very
+delicious and ornamental cakes.
+
+
+FRENCH SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS, ETC.
+
+_Sauce Madère à la Marmalade._--A half-pound of apricot marmalade; half
+a tumbler of Madeira or sherry; boil three minutes, then pass through a
+sieve, and serve as sauce to soufflées, cabinet puddings, etc.
+
+_Sauce des Å’ufs au Kirsch._--Beat the yolks of eight eggs, put them
+in a saucepan with half a tumbler of kirsch, five ounces of powdered
+sugar, and half the rind of a lemon grated. Stir all in a double boiler
+till the mixture sticks to the spoon; then remove from the boiling
+water; stir for a minute to prevent curdling; then it is ready to serve.
+
+_Chaudeau Sauce._--Take two whole eggs, six yolks of eggs, and eight
+lumps of sugar (each one rubbed on lemon-peel), two pints of Chablis,
+and the juice of half a lemon; beat them over a slow fire in a double
+boiler till a light froth is formed; be very careful the eggs do not
+curdle when the boiling-point is reached; take the sauce off the fire,
+and continue beating for a minute or two. If small streaks appear on the
+froth the sauce is done. Stir in a tablespoonful of fine rum, and the
+sauce is ready to serve.
+
+_Sherry Sauce for Puddings._--Six yolks of eggs, one ounce of sugar,
+half a pint of sherry, and the thin peel of a lemon. Beat the eggs with
+the sugar; when the wine is warm, stir them into it (let the lemon-peel
+steep in the wine while warming); stir all together till as thick as
+cream; then remove from the fire, and take out the peel. In making all
+these sauces with eggs the same precaution is required as in making
+custard.
+
+_Wine Sauce_, No. 2.--Three gills of water, one cup of sugar, one
+teaspoonful of corn-starch, and one gill of wine. Mix the corn-starch
+with a little water; pour the rest boiling to it, stirring till smooth;
+then add the sugar, and boil for five minutes; then add the wine and a
+few drops of essence of lemon and the same of cinnamon. Use these
+flavorings drop by drop, as they differ in strength too much for an
+exact quantity to be given, and the taste must be the guide. Rum or
+brandy may be used instead of wine; then the cinnamon is omitted.
+
+_Apricot Sauces._--Half a small jar of apricot jam or marmalade;
+dissolve it in three quarters of a gill of water with the juice of a
+lemon; stir in three quarters of a gill of rum. This sauce is simply
+made hot, not boiled, and may be served cold with Baba or Savarin cake.
+Greengage marmalade may be substituted.
+
+_Whipped Sweet Sauce._--Put the yolks of four eggs into a double
+saucepan with two ounces of sugar, one glass of sherry, the juice of one
+lemon, and a speck of salt; beat all together; then set the saucepan
+over the fire, and whisk the sauce till it is a creamy froth, when it
+is ready to serve.
+
+_Very Fine Sweet Butter Sauce._--Wash four ounces of butter; squeeze it
+dry; beat it to a hard sauce with half a pound of powdered sugar; then
+put the yolks of two eggs in a cold bowl; stir it a minute, then add to
+it a little of the hard sauce; when well mixed add more, about a
+teaspoonful at a time; when the hard sauce is blended with the yolks of
+eggs, stir in by degrees a wineglass of brandy or rum. Keep on ice till
+wanted.
+
+_Vanilla Cream Sauce._--Put half a pint of fresh cream to boil,
+reserving a tablespoonful; mix this with a teaspoonful of flour; stir it
+into the cream, with a tablespoonful of sugar, when near boiling; when
+it boils, stir for five minutes or ten in a double boiler; then pour out
+the sauce, and stir in a small teaspoonful of vanilla and a few drops of
+extract of rose or a teaspoonful of rose-water. Observe that the rose is
+used to give a different tone to the vanilla, and not to impart its own
+flavor, therefore very little must be used.
+
+_Almond Sauce._--Dissolve four ounces of almond paste in half a pint of
+sweet cream by stirring in a double boiler (the almond paste should be
+grated first); when both are hot, add a tablespoonful of sugar and the
+yolk of an egg; stir till the egg thickens, then remove from the fire
+and serve.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIII.
+
+SALADS AND CHEESE DISHES.
+
+
+Salad has come to form part of even the simplest dinners; and certainly
+cold meat and salad and excellent bread and butter make a meal by no
+means to be despised even by an epicure, while cold meat and bread and
+butter sound very untempting. The best dinner salad will perhaps always
+be white, crisp lettuce, with a simple French dressing, although, to
+those acquainted with it, escarole runs it hard, with its cool, watery
+ribs and crisp leaves. Elaborate salads, or those dressed with
+mayonnaise, are too heavy to form the latter part of an already
+sufficiently nourishing meal, but for luncheons and suppers the rich
+salad is invaluable.
+
+Salad which is to be eaten with game or to form a course at dinner may
+be a crisp white cabbage lettuce, water-cress, Romaine lettuce, or that
+most delicious form of endive, escarole.
+
+The dressing should be the simple French dressing, about which so much
+has been written and said, and which is so easy that perhaps it is one
+reason why so few make it well. There is nothing to remember beyond the
+proportions, and so many keep the quantity of oil, vinegar, and pepper
+and salt in mind, but the manner of using them seems of no consequence;
+but it is of so much consequence, if you do not want the vinegar on the
+leaves and the oil at the bottom of the salad bowl, that, well known as
+the formula is, I am going over it again with a few details that may
+help to fix the matter in mind.
+
+In the first place it must be remembered that a wet leaf will repel oil,
+therefore the lettuce or other salad must be well dried before it is
+sent to table. This is best done by swinging it in a salad basket, and
+then spreading it between two cloths for a few minutes. Now it must be
+quite evident, if a leaf wet with water will refuse to retain oil, that
+one wet with vinegar will do the same; for this reason the leaves should
+be covered with oil _before_ the vinegar is added, or the salad will be
+crude and very unlike what it should be if properly mixed in the
+following way:
+
+Take lettuce as the example, although any of those mentioned are made in
+the same way. Have the lettuce dry in the salad bowl, put in the
+salad-spoon a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, and,
+holding it over the bowl, fill the spoon with oil; mix the salt and
+pepper well with it, and turn it over the salad; toss the salad lightly
+over and over till the leaves glisten, then add two (if for epicures,
+three or four) more spoonfuls of oil, then toss again over and over till
+every leaf is well coated with oil; then sprinkle in a saladspoonful of
+sharp vinegar. Toss again, and the salad is ready.
+
+One salad less well known than it deserves to be is that made from the
+grape fruit. This is an especially grateful dish for spring breakfast,
+when cool, refreshing things are in order. Many tell me they have tried
+to eat grape fruit, but find it quite impossible on account of the
+intense bitter.
+
+There is a very _slight_ and pleasant bitter with grape fruit when
+properly prepared, but if by carelessness or ignorance even a small
+portion of the pith is left in it intense bitter is imparted to the
+whole.
+
+_Grape-fruit Salad._--Prepare the fruit, some hours before it is wanted,
+in the following way: Cut the fruit in four as you would an orange;
+separate the sections; then remove the pulp from each, taking care that
+no white pith or skin adheres to it. Put the pulp on the ice until just
+before serving; then dress with oil and vinegar exactly as directed for
+lettuce, etc.
+
+Meat or fish salads should always be dressed with mayonnaise. I say
+nothing of the well-known lobster and chicken salads, which are so
+general that one is tempted to think the majority of people do not know
+how excellent some other combination salads are. Salmon salad--the fish
+flaked, laid on a bed of crisp lettuce with a border of the leaves, and
+masked with mayonnaise, with a garnish of aspic--is both handsome and
+delicious; but cold halibut, or even cod--any firm fish that flakes, in
+fact--make delightful salads, and acceptable to many who cannot eat
+lobster. In the way of meat salads, partridge or grouse are far daintier
+than chicken, prepared in just the same way. There is one point,
+however, which should be observed in making all meat salads: it is that
+the material should be well dressed with oil, vinegar, and condiments
+before the mayonnaise is put on. Usually one of two courses is followed:
+either the meat is left dry, the mayonnaise being supposed sufficient,
+or it is dressed with mayonnaise and then masked with it. In the latter
+case the salad is far too rich; in the former it is flat, because
+mayonnaise, if rightly made, has not acidity enough to flavor the meat;
+therefore it and the celery or other salad mixed with it should be
+bathed with French dressing before it is masked.
+
+With these general rules any salad may be made; but as variety is the
+spice of the table, it may be borne in mind that in spring a sprig of
+mint, very finely chopped, gives a fragrance to lettuce, as does chervil
+or borage, parsley, or a tiny bit of onion. To a game salad nothing
+should be added.
+
+No recipe is needed for mayonnaise, it having been given in the chapter
+on cold sauces.
+
+In the course of these chapters several cheese dishes have been given,
+but there are a few others especially appropriate to the cheese and
+salad course, where it constitutes part of the dinner, which I will
+include. Cheese dishes are far less popular in this country than in
+Europe, but there are families whose masculine members eat no sweets,
+and for whom a dainty cheese dish would be very acceptable.
+
+_Genoa Ramaquin._--Cut a slice of Vienna or other baker’s bread, half an
+inch thick, lengthwise of the loaf, so that it covers the bottom of a
+fire-proof dish--a soufflé pan well buttered is excellent; beat two eggs
+and half a pint of milk together; add a level saltspoonful of salt; pour
+this custard over the bread, and leave it an hour to soak. Pour off any
+custard that may not be absorbed; dust the bread with pepper; then cover
+with the following mixture: dissolve as much rich cheese shaved in half
+a gill of cream as will cover the bread an inch thick, stirring it over
+a slow fire. Season with pepper and salt, and pour the cheese over the
+bread. Put it in the oven, and bake for half an hour, or till quite
+brown.
+
+_Cheese Puffs._--Line patty-pans with puff-paste, and fill three parts
+full with the following mixture: put a gill of cream in a double boiler
+with two ounces of grated cheese (half Parmesan if liked), a
+saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, a pinch of sugar, and a large
+teaspoonful of butter; when all is melted to a thick custard, break into
+it two eggs well whipped. The mixture is only to be made hot enough to
+melt the cheese, not to boil.
+
+_Cheese Sticks._--Take a piece of light bread dough about the size of a
+teacup, roll it out on a pastry-board, spread it with bits of firm
+butter, dredge with flour, fold and roll, repeat until you have rolled
+in two ounces of butter, just as for puff-paste; now roll the pastry out
+the third of an inch thick, cut into strips half an inch wide and any
+length you think proper, lay them very straight on a baking-sheet, and
+bake slowly a _very_ light brown; remove from the oven, let them cool,
+then brush them over with white of egg, and roll them thickly in grated
+Parmesan; return for a minute or two to the oven. These are very good
+with salad, but cannot easily be made in warm weather. Should the
+pastry get too soft while rolling, put it on ice, and it is better to
+do so at all times before cutting into strips, so that the “sticks� may
+be quite straight.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+  Allemande Sauce, 18.
+
+  Almond Cream, 229, 251;
+    Sauce, 299;
+    Trifles, 279;
+    Turban, 285;
+    Water-ice, 255.
+
+  Apple Jelly, 212;
+    Compote, 263-265.
+
+  Apricot Sauces, 297;
+    Water-ices, 256.
+
+  Artichokes, Fried, 198.
+
+  Aspic, Jelly, 195;
+    Lobster in, 79;
+    Mayonnaise, 47;
+    Oysters in, 76;
+    Reed-birds in, 159.
+
+
+  Ballotines, 177.
+
+  Béarnaise Sauce, 26.
+
+  Béchamel Sauce, 17, 159.
+
+  Beef, Fillets of, 86-89.
+
+  Beet-root Fritters, 198.
+
+  Birds, how to bone, 172-175;
+    how to stuff, 175.
+
+  Biscuits, Rout, 286.
+
+  Bouchées, 124.
+
+  Bouquet of herbs, 37.
+
+
+  Cabinet Pudding, 233, 239.
+
+  Cakes, Dessert, 285, 289.
+
+  Cakes and Sauces, fine, 291-295.
+    Chestnut Croquettes, 291.
+    Madeleines, 291.
+    Petits Fours, 292.
+
+  Candied Orange and Lemon Peels, 260, 261.
+
+  Caper Sauce, 29.
+
+  Cardinal Sauce, 30.
+
+  Cauliflower Fritters, 198.
+
+  Celery Sauce, 29.
+
+  Charlotte Russe, 281-283.
+
+  Châteaubriand Sauce, 34.
+
+  Chaudfroid Sauce, 160.
+
+  Chaudfroids. (See Entrées.)
+
+  Cheese Dishes, 306-308.
+    Genoa Ramaquin, 306.
+    Puffs, 306.
+    Sticks, 307.
+
+  Chestnut Soup, 57;
+    Croquettes, 291.
+
+  Chicken, à la Hollandaise, 114.
+    And Ham Cutlets, 157.
+    Chaudfroids of, 156.
+    Fritot of, 132.
+    Patties, 121.
+    Salad, 154.
+    Scallops, 130.
+    Tartlettes, 114.
+    Timbale of, 129.
+    Turtle fashion, 136.
+
+  Chocolate Cream Pudding, 245.
+
+  Choice Cookery explained, 1-3.
+
+  Chops, Lamb and Mutton, 98-103.
+
+  Cigarettes, 108, 135, 136.
+
+  Cinnamon, care in selecting, 216;
+    Water-ice, 255.
+
+  Claret Granito, 258;
+    Jelly, 215.
+
+  Cod, Fillets of, 62.
+
+  Cold Game Pies, 183-190.
+
+  Compote of Apples, 263-265;
+    of Cherries, 272;
+    of Chestnuts, 269, 270;
+    of Oranges, 269;
+    of Pears, 266, 268;
+    of Pigeons, 145;
+    of Strawberries, 272.
+
+  Consommé, 51-55.
+
+  Coquilles, 63, 64.
+
+  Creams, 223-230, 235-237.
+    Almond Cream, 229.
+    Bohemian Jelly Creams, 237.
+    Cocoanut Cream, 235.
+    Coffee Cream, 226.
+    Curaçoa Cream, 226.
+    Ginger Cream, 224.
+    Hazel-nut Cream, 236.
+    Here and in Europe, 223.
+    Neapolitan Cream, 224.
+    Nut Creams, 235.
+    Pistache Cream, 229.
+    Strawberry Cream, 227.
+    Vanilla Cream, 227.
+    Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream, 237.
+    Whipped Cream, 213, 214.
+
+  Croquettes, Chestnut, 291;
+    manner of preparing, 107.
+
+  Cucumber, Fillets of, 99;
+    Fillets of Rabbit with, 150;
+    Sauce, 29, 48;
+    Stuffed, 199.
+
+  Culinary matters, 79-85.
+
+  Curaçoa, 258.
+
+  Currant Water-ice, 256.
+
+  Currants, how to cook, 271.
+
+  Cutlets, how to prepare, 107.
+    Chicken and Ham, 157.
+    Lamb, 99, 100.
+    Mutton, 90, 98.
+    Pigeon, 143.
+    Russian Salad for, 101.
+    Sweetbread, 109.
+    Veal, 139.
+
+
+  Decorations, uneatable, 196.
+
+  Dessert, Small Cakes for, 285.
+
+  Downton Sauce, 39.
+
+  Dresden Patty Cases, 118.
+
+
+  Entrées, 86-106, 129-152, 153-171.
+    A Civet, 150.
+    Baked Ravioli, 137.
+    Cold Lamb Cutlets in Mint Jelly, 100.
+    Chicken Soufflé, 131.
+    Chicken, Turtle fashion, 136.
+    Cigarettes à la Chasseur, 135.
+    Cigarettes à la Reine, 134.
+    Cutlets Chaudfroid à la Russe, 102.
+    Filets de Bœuf à la Béarnaise, 87.
+    Filets de BÅ“uf aux Champignons, 87.
+    Fillet of Beef, 86.
+    Fillets of Beef à la Grande-Bretagne, 89.
+    Fillets of Cucumber, 99.
+    Fillets of Rabbit with Cucumber, 150.
+    Fillets of Teal with Anchovies, 148.
+    Fritot of Chicken, 132.
+    Grenadines of Beef with Mushrooms and Poivrade Sauce, 88.
+    Grenadines of Rabbit à la Soubise, 149.
+    Lamb Cutlets en Concombre, 99.
+    Lamb Cutlets with a Purée of Mushrooms, 100.
+    Lobster Quenelles, 136.
+    Mutton Cutlets à la d’Uxelles, 90.
+    Mutton Cutlets à la Milanais, 90.
+    Mutton Cutlets, or Chops, 98.
+    Pigeon Cutlets, 143.
+    Pigeons à la Tartare, 144.
+    Quails à la Jubilee, 141.
+    Quails à la Lucullus, 140.
+    Salmis of Snipe, 147.
+    Scallops of Chicken à la Périgord, 130.
+    Soufflé of Partridges, 146.
+    Sweetbreads à la Suprême, 103.
+    Sweetbreads in Cases, 106.
+    Sweetbreads with Oysters, 104.
+    Timbale of Chicken à la Champenois, 129.
+    Timbales d’Épinard, 151.
+    Veal Cutlets à la Primrose, 139.
+
+  Entrées, Cold, or Chaudfroids, 153-171.
+    Allumettes, 170.
+    Canapés à la Bismarck, 165.
+    Caviare Canapés, 166.
+    Chaudfroid of Reed-birds, 160.
+    Chaudfroids of Chicken, 156.
+    Cheese Biscuits à la St. James, 168.
+    Chicken and Ham Cutlets, 157.
+    Chicken Salad à la Prince, 154.
+    Cold Cheese Soufflés, 169.
+    Croûtes de Fromage Glacé, 169.
+    Eggs à la St. James, 170.
+    Iced Savory Soufflé, 162.
+    Kluskis of Cream Cheese, 168.
+    Oysters à la St. George, 169.
+    Prawns en Surprise, 166.
+    Prince of Wales Canapés, 167.
+    Reed-birds in Aspic, 159.
+    Savage Club Canapés, 164.
+    Savories, 162-164.
+    Shrimp Canapés, 168.
+    Sweetbread au Montpellier, 153.
+
+  Entrées, Fish, 61-70.
+    Coquilles of Prawns, 63.
+    Coquilles of Salmon or Halibut, 64.
+    Fillet of Flounders, 69.
+    Fillet of Sole à la Normande, 65.
+    Fillets of Cod à la Normande, 62.
+    Lobster in Aspic, 79.
+    Lobster Soufflées, 62.
+    Salmon en Papillotes, 65.
+    Sole à l’Horly, 66.
+    Turbans of Sole à la Rouennaise, 67.
+
+  Espagnole Sauce, 33.
+
+
+  Fillet, how to, 181, 182.
+
+  Fillets of Rabbits, 150.
+
+  Flavorings and Liqueurs, 210-212.
+
+  Flounders, Fillet of, 69.
+
+  Fritters, 198.
+
+  Fruits, Macédoine of, 222.
+
+  Frying, directions for, 91-95.
+
+
+  Galantines, 172-177.
+    Of Breast of Veal, 178.
+    Of Sucking Pig, 179.
+
+  Game Pie, 183.
+    English manner of making, in a crust, 189, 190.
+    Filling the case of, 186.
+    French method of making, 185.
+
+  Game, Salad to eat with, 300.
+
+  Garnishes, 191-198.
+    Colored Custard, 192.
+    Profiterolles, 194.
+    Spinach Juice, 192.
+    Stuffed Artichokes, 197.
+
+  Gelatine, 196;
+    right proportion for jelly, 217.
+
+  Ginger Cream, 224;
+    Dessert Cakes, 289;
+    Water-ice, 253.
+
+  Glaze, 8;
+    how to preserve, 10.
+
+  Graniti, 257, 258.
+    Claret Granito, 258.
+    Sherry Granito, 258.
+    To freeze, 257.
+
+  Grape-fruit Salad, 303.
+
+  Grenadines of Rabbit, 149.
+
+
+  Ham, Purée of, 152.
+
+  Herbs, French, 12;
+    how to chop, 81;
+    what required, 12.
+
+  Horseradish Sauce, 48.
+
+
+  Ice-creams and Ices, 246-256.
+    Almond Water-ice, 255.
+    Apricot Water-ice, 256.
+    Chinese Ice, 252.
+    Cinnamon Water-ice, 255.
+    Currant Water-ice, 256.
+    Custard for Ice-cream, 249.
+    Fruit Jam and Jellies with Ice-cream, 250.
+    Ginger Water-ice, 253.
+    Grilled Almond Ice-cream, 251.
+    Ice-cream with Eggs, 249.
+    Pineapple Water-ice, 254.
+    Pistachio Water-ice, 255.
+    Simplest Fruit Ice-cream, 246.
+    Tea Ice-cream, 252.
+    Tutti-frutti Ice-cream, 248.
+
+  Ice Pudding, 240, 241.
+
+  Iced Custard with Fruit, 244.
+
+  Iced Puddings, 238, 239, 241, 243.
+
+
+  Jellies, 208-225.
+    Aspic Jelly, 195.
+    Consistency of Jelly, 214.
+    Jellied Raspberries, 221.
+    Jelly with Candied Fruits, 220.
+    Jelly with Fresh Fruits, 218.
+    Mint Jelly, 49.
+    Mould of Apple Jelly, 212.
+    Plain Claret Jelly, 215.
+    Right proportions of Gelatine for Jelly, 217.
+    Roman Punch Jellies, 222.
+
+
+  Kabobs, Oyster, 72-74.
+
+  Kromeskies, 107.
+
+
+  Lamb Cutlets, 99, 100.
+
+  Lemon Baskets, 274;
+    Peels, Candied, 261.
+
+  Lemons, how to grate, 82.
+
+  Liqueurs and Flavorings, 210-212.
+
+  Lobster, in Aspic, 79;
+    Quenelles, 136;
+    Sauce, 29;
+    Soufflées, 62.
+
+
+  Macaroons, 287.
+
+  Macédoine of Fruits, 222.
+
+  Madeleines, 291.
+
+  Maraschino, 259.
+
+  Matelote Sauce, 40.
+
+  Mayonnaise, 43, 46, 47.
+
+  Meal, quantity to be used, 75.
+
+  Méringue Paste, 251.
+
+  Mint Jelly, 49.
+
+  Mother Sauces, 6.
+
+  Mushroom Baskets, 201.
+
+  Mushroom Jelly, 200.
+
+  Mushrooms and Tomatoes, 200.
+
+  Mushrooms, Stuffed, 200.
+
+  Mutton Cutlets, 90, 98.
+
+
+  Neapolitan Cream, 224.
+
+  Norwegian Sauce, 47.
+
+  Nut Creams, 229, 235-237.
+
+
+  Onion, Spanish, 202-204.
+
+  Orange Baskets, 272, 274.
+
+  Orange Compote, 209.
+
+  Orange Sauce, 39.
+
+  Oyster Kabobs, 72, 74;
+    Sauce, 29.
+
+  Oysters, 71-78.
+    À la Tartare, 78.
+    À la Villeroi, 71.
+    In Aspic, 76.
+    Various ways of serving, 71-78.
+
+
+  Papillotes, 65.
+
+  Parsley Sauce, 29.
+
+  Partridges, Soufflé of, 146.
+
+  Patties, 116-124.
+    Chicken, 121.
+    Dresden Cases for, 118.
+    Oyster, 121.
+    Sweetbread, 120.
+
+  Pears, à la Princesse, 267;
+    Compote of, 265, 266, 268.
+
+  Petits Fours, 292.
+
+  Pies, Game, 183-190.
+
+  Pigeon Cutlets, 143.
+
+  Pigeons, à la Tartare, 144;
+    Compote of, 145.
+
+  Pineapple Water-ice, 254.
+
+  Piquante Sauce, 35.
+
+  Pistache Cream, 229.
+
+  Pistachio Water-ice, 255.
+
+  Poivrade Sauce, 36.
+
+  Potage, à la Hollandaise, 56;
+    à la Royale, 59.
+
+  Potatoes, à la Provençale, 204;
+    Milanese, 205;
+    Scalloped, 205.
+
+  Poulette Sauce, 20.
+
+  Prawns, Coquilles of, 63.
+
+  Princess Soup, 58.
+
+  Profiterolles, 194.
+
+  Puddings, 230-234, 238-246.
+    Bombay Ice Pudding, 241.
+    Chocolate Cream Pudding, 245.
+    Cold Cabinet Pudding, 233.
+    Cold Soufflé Pudding, 231.
+    Diplomatic Pudding, 232.
+    Filbert and Wine Iced Pudding, 243.
+    Frangipanni Iced Pudding, 238.
+    Frozen Pudding, 235.
+    Ice Pudding, 240.
+    Iced Cabinet Pudding, 239.
+    Iced Custard with Fruit, 244.
+    Iced Jelly Pudding, 241.
+    Iced Puddings, 243.
+    Imperial Rice Pudding, 231.
+    Jubilee Pudding, 230.
+    Rice à la Princesse, 245.
+    Sauces for, 295-299.
+
+  Puffs, Cheese, 306.
+
+  Purée of Ham, 152.
+
+
+  Quenelles for entrées, 125-129;
+    for soups, 53, 54.
+
+
+  Rabbit, Grenadines of, 149;
+    Fillets of, 150.
+
+  Rabbits, 148.
+
+  Raspberries, how to cook, 271;
+    Jellied, 221.
+
+  Ratafia, 259.
+
+  Ravioli, Baked, 137.
+
+  Red Mayonnaise, 46.
+
+  Reed-birds, Chaudfroids of, 160;
+    in Aspic, 159.
+
+  Rice Pudding, 231.
+
+  Rissoles, 108.
+
+  Robert Sauce, 38.
+
+  Roman Punch Jellies, 222.
+
+  Rout Biscuits, 286.
+
+  Russian Salad for Cutlets, 101.
+
+
+  Salads, 300-305.
+    Best dinner, 300.
+    For Cutlets, 100.
+    Grape-fruit, 303.
+    How to dress, 301, 302.
+    To eat with game, 300.
+
+  Salmis of Snipe, 147.
+
+  Salmon, Coquilles of, 64;
+    en Papillotes, 65.
+
+  Sauces, 11-22; 23-32; 33-41; 42-50.
+    À la d’Uxelles, 20.
+    À la Normande, 38.
+    Allemande, 18.
+    Almond, 299.
+    Apricot, 297.
+    Aspic Mayonnaise, 47.
+    Béarnaise, 26.
+    Béchamel, 17, 159.
+    Blonde, or White, 13-32.
+    Bordelaise, 37.
+    Brown, 33-41.
+    Caper, 29.
+    Cardinal, 30.
+    Celery, 29.
+    Châteaubriand, 34.
+    Chaudfroid, 160, 161.
+    Cold Cucumber, 48.
+    Cold Sauces, 42-50.
+    Consistency of, 24, 105.
+    Cucumber, 29.
+    Des Å’ufs au Kirsch, 295.
+    Downton, 39.
+    Espagnole, 33.
+    Green Mayonnaise, 46.
+    Hollandaise, 30.
+    Horseradish, 48.
+    How to stir, 17.
+    Light Normande, 39.
+    Lobster, 29.
+    Madère à la Marmalade, 295.
+    Matelote, 40.
+    Mayonnaise, 43, 46, 47.
+    Mint, 49.
+    Mother Sauces, 6.
+    Norwegian, 47.
+    Orange, 39.
+    Oyster, 29.
+    Parsley, 29.
+    Piquante, 35.
+    Poivrade, 36.
+    Poulette, 20.
+    Red Mayonnaise, 46.
+    Robert, 38.
+    Rule for seasoning, 18.
+    Sherry, 296.
+    Shrimp, 29, 30.
+    Soubise, 27.
+    Ste. Ménehould, 25.
+    Suprême, 23.
+    Sweet Butter, very fine, 298.
+    Sweet, French, for Puddings, 295-299.
+    Tartare, 48.
+    Vanilla Cream, 298.
+    Velouté, or White, 14.
+    Villeroi, 21.
+    Wine, 296.
+    Whipped Sweet, 297.
+    White, 23-32.
+
+  Sautéing, 95, 96.
+
+  Scalloped Potatoes, 205.
+
+  Scallops of Chicken, 130.
+
+  Sherry Granito, 258;
+    Sauce, 296.
+
+  Shrimp Sauce, 29, 30.
+
+  Sole, à l’Horly, 66;
+    à la Normande, 65;
+    Rouennaise, 67.
+
+  Soubise Sauce, 27;
+    with Grenadines of Rabbit, 149.
+
+  Soufflé of Chicken, 131;
+    of Lobster, 62;
+    of Partridges, 146;
+    of Tomato, 206.
+
+  Soups, 51-60.
+    Chestnut, 57.
+    Consommé à la Rachel, 52.
+    Consommé à la Sévigné, 55.
+    Potage à la Hollandaise, 56.
+    Potage à la Royale, 59.
+    Princess, 58.
+    To clear Consommé, 51.
+
+  Spanish Onion, 204.
+
+  Spices and herbs required, 12.
+
+  Spinach Fritters, 206;
+    Juice, 192.
+
+  Ste. Ménehould Sauce, 25.
+
+  Stock, 7;
+    to reduce to Glaze, 8.
+
+  Strawberries, how to cook, 271;
+    Compote of, 272.
+
+  Strawberry Cream, 227.
+
+  Stuffed Artichokes, 197;
+    Cucumbers, 199.
+
+  Sucking Pig, Ballotines of, 179.
+
+  Suprême Sauce, 23.
+
+  Sweet Sauce for Puddings, 295-299.
+
+  Sweetbreads à la Suprême, 103;
+    au Montpellier, 153;
+    braised, 113;
+    Cutlets of, 109;
+    in Cases, 106;
+    Patties, 120;
+    with Oysters, 104.
+
+  Sweets, 262-280.
+    Almond Trifles, 279.
+    Almond Turban, 285.
+    Charlotte Russe with Gelatine, 283.
+    Compote of Apple Marmalade, 265.
+    Compote of Apples or Pears Grillé, 265.
+    Compote of Cherries, 272.
+    Compote of Oranges, 269.
+    Compote of Pears, 266.
+    Compote of Strawberries, 272.
+    Compote of Stuffed Apples, 264.
+    Compotes of Apple, 263, 264.
+    Compotes of Chestnuts, 269, 270.
+    Fine Small Dessert Cakes, 285.
+    Ginger Dessert Cakes, 289.
+    Lemon Baskets, 274.
+    Little China Dishes, 278.
+    Macaroons, 287.
+    Orange Baskets filled with fruit, 272.
+    Orange Basket Glacé, 274.
+    Pears à la Princesse, 267.
+    Pink Compote, 267.
+    Raspberry Charlotte Russe, 281.
+    Rout Biscuits, 285.
+    Swiss Vacherin, 276.
+    Variegated Compote of Pears, 268.
+
+
+  Tartare Sauce, 48.
+
+  Teal with Anchovies, 148.
+
+  Timbale of Chicken, 129.
+
+  Timbales d’Épinard, 151.
+
+  Tomato Jelly, 205;
+    Soufflé, 206.
+
+  Tomatoes and Mushrooms, 200.
+
+  Trifles, Almond, 279.
+
+  Turban, Almond, 285.
+
+  Turbans of Sole, 67.
+
+
+  Uneatable decorations, 196.
+
+
+  Vacherin, Swiss, 276.
+
+  Vanilla Cream, 227;
+    Cream Sauce, 298.
+
+  Variegated Compote of Pears, 268.
+
+  Veal Cutlets à la Primrose, 139.
+
+  Vegetables, 197-207.
+    A few ways of cooking, 197.
+    Beet-root Fritters, 198.
+    Cauliflower Fritters, 198.
+    Fried Artichokes, 198.
+    Milanese Potatoes, 205.
+    Mushroom Baskets, 201.
+    Mushroom Jelly, 200.
+    Mushrooms and Tomatoes, 200.
+    Mushrooms stuffed à la Lucullus, 200.
+    Potatoes à la Provençale, 204.
+    Scalloped Potatoes, 205.
+    Spanish or Portuguese Onion, 202, 203.
+    Spinach Fritters, 206.
+    Stuffed Cucumbers, 199.
+    Stuffed Spanish Onion, 204.
+    Tomato Jelly, 205.
+    Tomato Soufflé, 206.
+    Various ways of serving, 199-207.
+
+  Velouté, or White Sauce, 14.
+
+  Villeroi Sauce, 21.
+
+
+  Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream, 237.
+
+  Water-ices, 253-256.
+    Almond, 255.
+    Apricot, 256.
+    Cinnamon, 255.
+    Currant, 256.
+    Ginger, 253.
+    Pineapple, 254.
+    Pistachio, 255.
+
+  Whipped Cream, 213, 214;
+    Sweet Sauces, 297.
+
+  White Sauces, 23-32.
+
+  Wine, Iced Pudding, 243;
+    Sauces, 296.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+MISS CORSON’S FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR.
+
+
+Family Living on $500 a Year. A Daily Reference Book for Young and
+   Inexperienced Housewives. By JULIET CORSON. 16mo, Cloth, $1 25.
+
+If we ever get as much as $500 a year we shall purchase this book and
+live like a prince.... It goes carefully through the expenses of daily
+living, and indicates the thousand and one ways in which a penny can be
+saved and another penny put where it will do most good. A book of this
+kind placed in the hands of those who have very limited means will show
+that they can live very comfortably and have quite enough to eat on a
+very small sum.--_N. Y. Herald._
+
+It is a helpful working book, sensible and practical, and tells how to
+buy, cook, and serve all sorts of food; how to can, pickle, and
+preserve; and how to arrange and serve luncheons, dinners, and teas, all
+in the most economical manner consistent with appetizing
+results.--_Sunday-School Times_, Philadelphia.
+
+Food-economist, cook-book, and instructor in table service all in
+one.... The book is a capital one, and every housekeeper should feel
+grateful to the able and painstaking author.--_N. Y. Post._
+
+The production of a lady who understands her subject thoroughly, and who
+earnestly wishes to help others towards the same useful knowledge.... A
+book of this sort (and Miss Corson is the best able to produce it of any
+one we know) is a great aid, and the more it is circulated the more
+households will be made happy.--_Churchman_, N. Y.
+
+Every house-keeper, whether coming within the scope of the author’s
+effort or not, will find many instructive hints, a due regard for which
+will be conducive to the improved physical well-being and increased
+mental serenity of the various members of her household.--_St. Louis
+Republican._
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+☞ HARPER & BROTHERS _will send the above work by mail, postage prepaid,
+to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price._
+
+
+
+
+MRS. SHERWOOD’S MANNERS AND SOCIAL USAGES IN AMERICA.
+
+
+Manners and Social Usages in America. A Book of Etiquette. By Mrs. JOHN
+   SHERWOOD. pp. 448. New and Enlarged Edition, Revised by the Author.
+   16mo, Extra Cloth, $1 25.
+
+Mrs. Sherwood’s admirable little volume differs from ordinary works on
+the subject of etiquette, chiefly in the two facts that it is founded on
+its author’s personal familiarity with the usages of really good
+society, and that it is inspired by good-sense and a helpful spirit....
+We think Mrs. Sherwood’s little book the very best and most sensible one
+of its kind that we ever saw.--_N. Y. Commercial Advertiser._
+
+We have no hesitation in declaring it to be the best work of the kind
+yet published. The author shows a just appreciation of what is
+good-breeding and what is snobbishness.... In happy discriminations the
+excellence of Mrs. Sherwood’s book is conspicuous.--_Brooklyn Union._
+
+It is a sensible and pleasantly written volume, which has already won
+recognition as one of the best books of its kind, and this new edition
+is called for by the heartiness with which the public has endorsed the
+work.--_Courier_, Boston.
+
+A sensible, comprehensive book, which has endured criticism
+successfully, and deserves now to be regarded the best book of its kind
+published in this country.... A better guide than Mrs. Sherwood’s book
+through the paths of social usages we do not know. The book is a
+handsome one, as it ought to be.--_Christian Intelligencer_, N. Y.
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+☞ HARPER & BROTHERS _will send the above work by mail, postage prepaid,
+to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price._
+
+
+
+
+BOOKS FOR THE HOUSEHOLD.
+
+
+MRS. HENDERSON’S PRACTICAL COOKING. Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving.
+  A Treatise containing Practical Instructions in Cooking; in the
+  Combination and Serving of Dishes, and in the Fashionable modes of
+  Entertaining at Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner. By MARY F. HENDERSON.
+  Illustrated. 12mo, Water-proof Cover, $1 50.
+
+MRS. HENDERSON’S DIET FOR THE SICK. Diet for the Sick. A Treatise on the
+  Values of Foods, their Application to Special Conditions of Health and
+  Disease, and on the Best Methods of their Preparation. By MARY F.
+  HENDERSON. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.
+
+MRS. WASHINGTON’S UNRIVALLED COOKBOOK. The Unrivalled Cook-Book and
+  House-keeper’s Guide. By MRS. WASHINGTON. 12mo, Water-proof Cover, $2
+  00.
+
+MRS. SMITH’S VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. Virginia Cookery-Book. By MARY
+  STUART SMITH. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50; 4to, Paper, 25 cents.
+
+BAZAR COOKING RECEIPTS. Cooking Receipts from _Harper’s Bazar_. 32mo,
+  Paper, 25 cents; Cloth, 40 cents.
+
+MISS OAKEY’S BEAUTY IN DRESS. Beauty in Dress. By MISS OAKEY. 16mo,
+  Cloth, $1 00.
+
+MRS. DEWING’S (MISS OAKEY) BEAUTY IN THE HOUSEHOLD. Beauty in the
+  Household. By Mrs. T. W. DEWING, Author of “Beauty in Dress.�
+  Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00.
+
+COAN’S OUNCES OF PREVENTION. Ounces of Prevention. By TITUS MUNSON COAN,
+  M.D. 12mo, Paper, 25 cents; Cloth, 50 cents.
+
+MRS. CHURCH’S MONEY-MAKING FOR LADIES. Money-Making for Ladies. By ELLA
+  RODMAN CHURCH. 16mo, Cloth, 90 cents.
+
+WALKER’S HINTS TO WOMEN ON THE CARE OF PROPERTY. Hints to Women on the
+  Care of Property. By ALFRED WALKER. 32mo, Paper, 20 cents; Cloth, 35
+  cents.
+
+MISS CORSON’S FAMILY LIVING. Family Living on $500 a Year. A Daily
+  Reference Book for Young and Inexperienced Housewives. By JULIET
+  CORSON. 16mo, Cloth, $1 25.
+
+MRS. HERRICK’S HOUSE-KEEPING MADE EASY. House-keeping Made Easy. By
+  CHRISTINE TERHUNE HERRICK. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00.
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+
+☞ HARPER & BROTHERS _will send any of the above works, postage prepaid,
+to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price._
+
+
+
+Transcriber’s Note
+
+The following typographical errors were corrected.
+
+  Page  Error
+    6   allemande is the same changed to Allemande is the same
+  160   pâte de foie gras changed to pâté de foie gras
+  166   Caviary Canapés changed to Caviare Canapés
+  309   Bearnaise Sauce changed to Béarnaise Sauce
+  309   Tartlets changed to Tartlettes
+  311   Coucombre changed to Concombre
+  311   Puree of Mushrooms changed to Purée of Mushrooms
+  311   à la Milanaise changed to à la Milanais
+  311   à la Perigord changed to à la Périgord
+  312   Ham, Puree of changed to Ham, Purée of
+  313   Macedoine of Fruits changed to Macédoine of Fruits
+  313   Meringue Paste changed to Méringue Paste
+  314   Puree of Ham changed to Purée of Ham
+  314   Bearnaise changed to Béarnaise
+  315   Ste. Menehould changed to Ste. Ménehould
+  Ad 2  pp.448. changed to pp. 448.
+  Ad 3  12mo, Cloth, $1 50 changed to 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.
+
+
+  Inconsistently spelled and hyphenated words
+
+  blond / blonde
+  cocoa-nut / cocoanut
+  house-keeper / housekeeper
+  lemon-juice / lemon juice
+  pepper-corns / peppercorns
+  ramequin / ramekin
+  rose-water / rosewater
+  salt-spoonful / saltspoonful
+  soufflé / soufflée
+  Soufflé / Soufflée
+  soufflés / soufflées
+  Soufflés / Soufflées
+  under-side / underside
+  water-cress / watercress
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Choice Cookery, by Catherine Owen
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHOICE COOKERY ***
+
+***** This file should be named 26311-0.txt or 26311-0.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/3/1/26311/
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+https://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     https://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/26311-0.zip b/26311-0.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..95f5a74
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-0.zip
diff --git a/26311-8.txt b/26311-8.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b988147
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-8.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,6398 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Choice Cookery, by Catherine Owen
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Choice Cookery
+
+Author: Catherine Owen
+
+Release Date: August 14, 2008 [EBook #26311]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHOICE COOKERY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of changes is
+found at the end of the text. Inconsistency in spelling and hyphenation
+has been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled words is found at
+the end of the text. Oe ligatures have been expanded.
+
+The following codes have been used for characters that cannot be
+displayed in the character set used for this e-book.
+
+[+]  Dagger
+-->  Right pointing hand
+
+
+
+
+
+                   CHOICE COOKERY
+
+
+
+                         BY
+
+                   CATHERINE OWEN
+                      AUTHOR OF
+  "TEN DOLLARS ENOUGH" "GENTLE BREAD-WINNERS" ETC.
+
+
+
+                      NEW YORK
+         HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE
+                        1889
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1889, by HARPER & BROTHERS.
+
+_All rights reserved._
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Choice cookery is not intended for households that have to study
+economy, except where economy is a relative term; where, perhaps, the
+housekeeper could easily spend a dollar for the materials of a luxury,
+but could not spare the four or five dollars a caterer would charge.
+
+Many families enjoy giving little dinners, or otherwise exercising
+hospitality, but are debarred from doing so by the fact that anything
+beyond the ordinary daily fare has to be ordered in, or an expensive
+extra cook engaged. And although we may regret that hospitality should
+ever be dependent on fine cooking, we have to take things as they are.
+It is not every hostess who loves simplicity that dares to practise it.
+
+It was to help the women who wish to know at a glance what is newest and
+best in modern cookery that these chapters were written for _Harper's
+Bazar_, and are now gathered into a book. It is hoped by the writer that
+the copious details and simplification of different matters will enable
+those who have already achieved success in the plainer branches of
+cookery to venture further, and realize for themselves that it is only
+the "first step that costs."
+
+I have to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mrs. Clarke, of the South
+Kensington School of Cookery, to Madame de Salis, and those epicurean
+friends who have cast their nets in foreign waters, and sent me the
+daintiest fish they caught.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+  CHAPTER               PAGE
+
+       I. INTRODUCTION                                               1
+      II. SAUCES                                                    11
+     III. WHITE SAUCES                                              23
+      IV. BROWN SAUCES                                              33
+       V. COLD SAUCES                                               42
+      VI. SOUPS                                                     51
+     VII. FISH ENTRÉES                                              61
+    VIII. VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING OYSTERS                           71
+      IX. VARIOUS CULINARY MATTERS                                  79
+       X. ENTRÉES                                                   86
+      XI. ENTRÉES OF MUTTON CUTLETS OR CHOPS                        98
+     XII. ON THE MANNER OF PREPARING CROQUETTES, CUTLETS,
+          KROMESKIES, RISSOLES, AND CIGARETTES                     107
+    XIII. PATTIES                                                  116
+     XIV. ENTRÉES                                                  125
+      XV. ENTRÉES--_continued_                                     134
+     XVI. ENTRÉES--_continued_                                     143
+    XVII. COLD ENTRÉES, OR CHAUDFROIDS                             153
+   XVIII. COLD ENTRÉES                                             162
+     XIX. GALANTINES, BALLOTINES, ETC.                             172
+      XX. HOW TO "FILLET."--COLD GAME PIES                         181
+     XXI. GARNISHES                                                191
+    XXII. VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING VEGETABLES                       199
+   XXIII. JELLIES                                                  208
+    XXIV. JELLIES--_continued_                                     217
+     XXV. COLD SWEETS.--CREAMS                                     226
+    XXVI. CREAMS AND FROZEN PUDDINGS                               235
+   XXVII. ICED PUDDINGS                                            243
+  XXVIII. ICE-CREAMS AND WATER-ICES                                252
+    XXIX. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS                                     262
+     XXX. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS--_continued_                        271
+    XXXI. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS--_continued_                        281
+   XXXII. FINE CAKES AND SAUCES                                    291
+  XXXIII. SALADS AND CHEESE DISHES                                 300
+  INDEX                                                            309
+
+
+
+
+CHOICE COOKERY.
+
+
+I.
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+By choice cookery is meant exactly what the words imply. There will be
+no attempt to teach family or inexpensive cooking, those branches of
+domestic economy having been so excellently treated by capable hands
+already. It may be said _en passant_, however, that even choice cooking
+is not necessarily expensive. Many dishes cost little for the materials,
+but owe their daintiness and expensiveness to the care bestowed in
+cooking or to a fine sauce. For instance: cod, one of the cheapest of
+fish, and considered coarse food as usually served, becomes an
+epicurean dish when served with a fine Hollandaise or oyster sauce, and
+it will not even then be more expensive than any average-priced boiling
+fish. Flounder served as _sole Normande_ conjures up memories of the
+famous Philippe, whose fortune it made, or it may be of luxurious little
+dinners at other famous restaurants, and is suggestive, in fact, of
+anything but economy. Yet it is really an inexpensive dish.
+
+But while it is quite true that fine cooking does not always mean
+expensive cooking, it is also true that it requires the best materials
+and sufficient of them; that if satisfactory results are to be obtained
+there must be no attempt to stint or change proportions from a false
+idea of economy, although it must never be forgotten that all good
+cooking is economical, by which I mean that there is no waste, every
+cent's worth of material being made to do its full duty.
+
+In this book the object will be to give the newest and most _recherché_
+dishes, and these will naturally be expensive. Yet for those families
+who depend upon the caterer for everything in the way of fine soups,
+_entrées_, or sauces, because the cook can achieve only the plain part
+of the dinner, it will be found a great economy as well as convenience
+to be independent of this outside resource, which is always very costly,
+and invariably destroys the individuality of a repast. Many new recipes
+will be given, and others little known in private kitchens, or thought
+to be quite beyond the attainment of any but an accomplished _chef_. But
+if strict attention be paid to small matters, and the directions
+faithfully carried out, there will be no difficulty in a lady becoming
+her own _chef_.
+
+I propose to begin with sauces. This is reversing the usual mode, and
+yet I think the reader will not regret the innovation. The cooking to be
+taught in these pages, being emphatically what is popularly known as
+"Delmonico cooking," very much depends on the excellence of the sauces
+served with each dish; and as it is no time to learn to make a fine
+sauce when the dish it is served with is being cooked, I think the
+better plan is to give the sauces first. They will be frequently
+referred to, but no repetition of the recipes will be given.
+
+Before proceeding further I will say a few words that may save time and
+patience hereafter. Of course it is not expected that any one will hope
+to succeed with elaborate dishes without understanding the principles of
+simple cooking, but many do this without perceiving that in that
+knowledge they hold the key to very much more, and I would ask readers
+who are in earnest about the matter to acquire the habit of putting two
+and two together in cooking as they would in fancy-work. If you know
+half a dozen embroidery or lace stitches, you see at once that you can
+produce the elaborate combinations in which those stitches are used. So
+it is with cooking. The most elaborate dish will only be a combination
+of two or three simpler processes of cooking, _perfectly_ done--that is
+a _sine qua non_--something fried, roasted, boiled, or braised to
+perfection, and a sauce that no _chef_ could improve upon; but to
+recognize that this is so--that when you can make a Châteaubriand sauce
+or a Béarnaise perfectly, and can _sauté_ a steak, the famed filets à la
+Châteaubriand or à la Béarnaise are no longer a mystery, or that one who
+can make clear meat jelly and roast a chicken has learned all but the
+arrangement of a _chaudfroid_ in aspic--will make apparently complicated
+dishes simple.
+
+I go into these matters because I hope to cause my readers to _think_
+about the recipes they will use, when they will see for themselves that
+even the finest cooking is not intricate nor in any way difficult. It
+requires intelligence and great care about details: no half-attention
+will do, any more than it will in any other thing we attempt, whether it
+be high art or domestic art.
+
+In making sauces or reading recipes for them it simplifies matters to
+remember that in savory sauces--by which I mean those served with meats
+or fish--there are what the French call the two "mother sauces," white
+sauce and brown; all others, with few exceptions, are modifications of
+these two; that is to say, béchamel is only white sauce made with white
+stock and cream instead of milk; Allemande is the same, only yolks of
+eggs replace the cream; and so on through the long list of sauces
+belonging to the blond variety. The simple brown sauce becomes the
+famous Châteaubriand by the addition of glaze (or very strong gravy) and
+a glass of white wine, and is the "mother" of many others equally fine.
+This being so, it will be seen that it is of the first importance that
+the making of these two "mother sauces" should be thoroughly understood,
+in order for the finer ones based on them to be successfully
+accomplished.
+
+It will clear the way for easy work if I here give the directions for
+making one of the most necessary and convenient aids to fine
+cooking--the above-named glaze. To have it in the house saves much worry
+and work. If the soup is not just so strong as we wish, the addition of
+a small piece of glaze will make it excellent; or we wish to make brown
+sauce, and have no stock, the glaze comes to our aid. To have stock in
+the house at all times is by no means easy in a small family, especially
+in summer; with glaze, which is solidified stock, one is independent of
+it.
+
+Six pounds of lean beef from the leg, or a knuckle of veal and beef to
+make six pounds. Cut this in pieces two inches square or less; do the
+same with half a pound of lean ham, free from rind or smoky outside, and
+which has been scalded five minutes. Put the meat into a two-gallon pot
+with three medium-sized onions with two cloves in each, a turnip, a
+carrot, and a _small_ head of celery. Pour over them five quarts of cold
+water; let it come slowly to the boiling-point, when skim, and draw to
+a spot where it will gently simmer for six hours. This stock as it is
+will be an excellent foundation for all kinds of clear soups or gravies,
+with the addition of salt, which must on no account be added for glaze.
+
+To reduce this stock to glaze, do as follows: Strain the stock first
+through a colander, and return meat and vegetables to the pot; put to
+them four quarts of _hot_ water, and let it boil four hours longer. The
+importance of this second boiling, which may at first sight appear
+useless economy, will be seen if you let the two stocks get cold; the
+first will be of delightful flavor, but probably quite liquid; the last
+will be flavorless, but if the boiling process has been slow enough it
+will be a jelly, the second boiling having been necessary to extract the
+gelatine from the bones, which is indispensable for the formation of
+glaze.
+
+Strain both these stocks through a scalded cloth. (If they have been
+allowed to get cool, heat them in order to strain.) Put both stocks
+together into one large pot, and let it boil as fast as possible with
+the cover off, leaving a large spoon in it to prevent it boiling over,
+also to stir occasionally; when it is reduced to three pints put it into
+a small saucepan, and let it boil more slowly. Stir frequently with a
+wooden spoon until it begins to thicken and has a fine yellowish-brown
+color, which will be when it is reduced to a quart or rather less. At
+this point watch closely, as it quickly burns. When there is only a pint
+and a half it will be fit to pour into small cups or jars, or it may be
+dried in thin sheets, if required for soup in travelling; to do this,
+pour it into oiled tin pans an inch deep. When cold it can be cut out in
+two-inch squares and dried by exposure to the air till it is like glue.
+One square makes a cup of strong soup if dissolved in boiling water and
+seasoned. If, however, it is put into pots, it must _not be covered_
+until all moisture has evaporated and the glaze shrinks from the sides
+of the jar. This may take a month.
+
+The most convenient of all ways for preserving glaze is to get from your
+butcher a yard of sausage-skin. Tie one end very tightly, then pour in
+the glaze while warm by means of a large funnel. Tie the skin just as
+you would sausage as close to the glaze as possible, cut off any
+remaining skin, and hang the one containing the glaze up to dry. When
+needed, a slice is cut from this.
+
+Of course any strong meat and bone-soup can be boiled down in the same
+way, and where there is meat on hand in danger of spoiling from sudden
+change of weather it can be turned into glaze, and kept indefinitely. I
+have found glaze five years old as good as the first week.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+SAUCES.
+
+
+In addition to the glaze, for which the recipe is given in the preceding
+pages, and which will make you independent of the stock pot, there are
+several other articles involving very small outlay which it is
+absolutely necessary to have at hand in order to follow directions
+without trouble and worry.
+
+It is often said by thoughtless housekeepers that cooking-books are of
+little use, because the recipes always call for something that is not in
+the house. This is a habit of mind only, for the very women who say it
+keep their work-baskets supplied with everything necessary for work, not
+only the everyday white and black spools, nor would they hesitate to
+undertake a piece of embroidery which required quite unusual
+combinations of color or material, and to be obtained only with
+difficulty. Grant a little of this earnest painstaking to the
+requirements of the cooking-book at the start, see that the herb-bottles
+are supplied with dried herbs (when fresh are not attainable), the
+spice-boxes contain the small quantity of fresh fine spices that is
+sufficient for a good deal of cooking, and red and white wine and brandy
+are in the house, all of which should be kept in the store-closet for
+cooking alone, and not liable to be "out" when wanted.
+
+The so-called "French herbs" are rarely found in American gardens, yet
+might be very readily sown in early spring, as parsley is; but although
+seldom home-grown, they are to be found at the French market-gardener's
+in Washington Market, and can be bought fresh and dried in paper bags
+quickly for use. I say dried quickly, because unless the sun is very hot
+much of the aroma will pass into the air; it is, therefore, better to
+dry them in a cool oven. When they are dry enough to crumble to dust,
+free the herbs from stems and twigs, and put them separately into tin
+boxes or wide-mouthed bottles, each labelled. The expense of herbs and
+spices is very slight, and they are certainly not neglected among
+kitchen stores on that account; it is merely the want of habit in
+ordering them. In addition to these articles a bottle of capers, one of
+olives, one of anchovies, canned mushrooms, and canned truffles should
+be on hand--the latter should be bought in the smallest-sized cans, as
+they are very costly, but a little goes a long way. Families living in
+the country often have for a season more mushrooms than they can use. In
+the few days in which they are plentiful opportunity should be taken to
+peel and dry as many as possible; when powdered they give a finer flavor
+than the canned mushroom, and may be used to great advantage in dark
+sauces.
+
+The French _chef_ classes all white sauces as _blonde_, and calls the
+jar of very smooth thick white sauce, which he keeps ready made as a
+foundation for most of the family of light sauces, his _blonde_ or
+_velouté_. This explanation is given because directions are often found
+in French recipes to "take half a pint of velouté" or of "blonde." The
+mistress of a private house may not find it wise or necessary to keep a
+supply of sauce ready made, although to one who has to supply a variety
+of sauces each day it is indispensable; but the day before a
+dinner-party sauces can be so made, and covered with a film of butter to
+prevent skin forming, and can then be heated in a bain-marie when
+required for use. Almost every _chef_ has his favorite recipe for
+velouté, or white sauce, but they differ only in points that are little
+essential; the foundation is always the same, as follows: Put two ounces
+of butter in a thick saucepan with two ounces of flour (tablespoonfuls
+approximate the ounce, but weight only should be relied on for fine
+cooking). Let these melt over the fire, stirring them so that the
+butter and flour become well mixed; then let them bubble together,
+stirring enough to prevent the flour sticking or changing color. Three
+minutes will suffice to cook the flour; add a pint of clear hot white
+stock that has been strained through a cloth. This stock must not be
+poured slowly, or the sauce will thicken too fast. Hold the pint-measure
+or other vessel in which the stock may be in the left hand, stir the
+butter and flour quickly with the right, then turn the broth to it _all
+at once_. Let this simmer an hour until very thick, then add a gill of
+very rich cream, stir, and the sauce is ready.
+
+This is undoubtedly the best way to make white sauce, which is to serve
+as a foundation for others, or is intended to mask meat or poultry, the
+long, slow simmering producing an extreme blandness not to be attained
+by a quicker method. But circumstances sometimes prevent the previous
+preparation of the sauce, in which case it may be made exactly in the
+same way, only instead of a pint of broth, but three gills should be
+poured on the butter and flour, and a gill of thick cream stirred in
+when it boils; the sauce is finished when it again reaches the
+boiling-point.
+
+This is the foundation for the following "grand" sauces: Poulette,
+Allemande, Uxelles, Soubise, Ste. Ménehould, Périgueux, Suprême, besides
+all the simpler ones, which take their name from the chief ingredient,
+such as caper, cauliflower, celery, lobster, etc., etc.
+
+For sauces that have vinegar or lemon juice, it is better that the
+velouté, or white sauce, should have no cream until the last minute, or
+it may curdle. My object in giving the recipes for sauces in the way I
+intend--that is to say, by building on to, or omitting from, one
+foundation sauce--is to dispel some of the confusion which exists in the
+minds of many people about the exact difference between several sauces
+differing from each other very slightly--a confusion which is only
+added to by reading over the fully written recipes for each, as many a
+painstaking, intelligent woman's headache will testify. As we progress,
+the exact difference between each will be explained.
+
+_Béchamel._--This sauce differs from the white sauce only in the fact
+that the white stock used for the latter need not be very strong; for
+béchamel it should either be very strong or boiled down rapidly to make
+it so, and there should always be half cream instead of one third, as in
+white sauce, and when required for fish the stock may be of fish. White
+sauce is frequently (perhaps most frequently) made with milk, or milk
+and cream, in place of stock, in this country, and answers admirably for
+many purposes, but would not be what is required for the kind of cooking
+intended in these pages.
+
+Most readers know how "to stir," and it may seem quite an unnecessary
+matter to go into. Yet if only one reader does not know that to stir
+means a regular, even, slow circling of the spoon, _not only in the
+centre_ of the saucepan, but round the sides, she will fail in making
+good sauce. Stir, then, slowly, gently, going over every part of the
+bottom of the saucepan till the sides are reached, pass the spoon gently
+round them, thence back to the middle, and so on. In this way the sauce
+gets no chance to stick to any particular spot. A small copper saucepan
+is the best possible utensil for making sauce, as it does not burn.
+
+The rule for seasoning is a level salt-spoonful of salt to half a pint;
+pepper, one fourth the quantity. This, however, is only when the stock
+is unseasoned; if seasoned, only salt enough must be added to season the
+cream and eggs.
+
+_Allemande._--Take half a pint of white sauce, add to it half the liquor
+from a can of mushrooms, and half a dozen of the mushrooms chopped fine.
+Let them simmer--stirring all the time--five minutes, then remove from
+the fire. Set the saucepan into another containing boiling water. Have
+the yolks of three eggs ready beaten, put a little of the sauce to them,
+beat together, then add the eggs gradually to the rest of the sauce,
+which must be returned to the fire, and stirred until the eggs _begin_
+to thicken; then it must be quickly removed, and stirred until slightly
+cool. Season with a saltspoonful of salt, a fourth of one of pepper, and
+strain carefully.
+
+It must never be forgotten that in thickening with eggs the sauce or
+soup must _not boil_ after they are added, or they will curdle. Yet if
+they do not reach the boiling-point they will not thicken. Only keen
+attention to the first sign of thickening will insure success. If a
+failure is made the first time, look upon it as the first step to
+success, for you have learned what the danger _looks like_. Make the
+sauce again as soon as possible, so that your eye may not lose the
+impression. It is worth considerable effort (and it is really only a
+matter of a few minutes each time) to make Allemande sauce well, for in
+doing so you also learn to make Hollandaise and several choice sauces,
+as will be seen by those that follow.
+
+_Poulette Sauce._--Make Allemande sauce as directed in the foregoing
+recipe; add a wineglass of white wine. If sweetbreads or chicken are to
+be cooked in the sauce, as is not unusual, of course the eggs must be
+left out until the last thing. Anything served with this sauce is called
+_à la poulette_.
+
+_Sauce à la d'Uxelles._--Chop fine a dozen _small_ button mushrooms, or
+half a dozen large ones; parsley and chives, of each enough to make a
+teaspoonful when finely chopped; of lean ham a tablespoonful, and one
+small shallot. Fry gently in a tablespoonful of butter, but do not let
+them brown. Stir these into half a pint of white sauce, simmer three or
+four minutes, then add two yolks of eggs, as for Allemande, and the last
+thing a half-teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and just enough glaze to make
+the sauce the shade of a pale Suède glove. This sauce is used cold to
+coat meats that have to be cooked in paper, and many that are afterwards
+to be fried in bread-crumbs, for which directions will be given in the
+_entrées_. Dishes termed _à la d'Uxelles_ are among the most _recherché_
+productions of the French kitchen.
+
+_Villeroi Sauce._--Make half a pint of white sauce, which, as in the
+case of béchamel, may be made of fish stock when for use with fish; chop
+half a dozen mushrooms, and add a gill of the liquor to the sauce, half
+a saltspoonful of powdered thyme (or one sprig, if fresh), two sprigs of
+parsley, and half a bay-leaf; simmer for fifteen minutes; strain through
+a scalded cloth; replace on the fire; add a piece of glaze as large as a
+hazel-nut, or a tablespoonful of strong meat-gravy, just enough to give
+it the shade of _palest_ café au lait; thicken with two yolks of eggs,
+as for Allemande sauce. All articles served with this sauce are termed
+_à la Villeroi_. It differs from d'Uxelles only in having no ham, nor
+acidity from the lemon; also, all flavor of onion is omitted.
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+WHITE SAUCES.
+
+
+Suprême sauce gives its name to several dishes dear to epicures--suprême
+de volaille, suprême de Toulouse, etc. It is made with a pint of thick
+white sauce, a pint of very strong chicken broth, four stalks of
+parsley, and six white pepper-corns, boiled down to half a pint. Stir
+sauce and broth together until thoroughly blended, then boil rapidly
+down till thick again, taking great care it does not burn. Add one gill
+of double cream, and half a saltspoonful of salt (if the stock was
+already seasoned). Boil up till thick enough _to mask the back of a
+spoon_, strain, and the last thing add a small teaspoonful of lemon
+juice.
+
+When the white sauce has to be made expressly for the suprême, it is
+easier to use strong chicken broth in place of ordinary white stock;
+then it is not necessary to add it after. The term "to mask the back of
+a spoon" is a common one to indicate the proper thickness for sauces,
+but to the untrained eye it may not be easy to decide just what
+"masking" means. Most sauces should be thin enough to run quite freely
+from the spoon, yet not so thin as to leave the color of the spoon
+visible through the coating of sauce it will retain if it be dipped into
+it; there should be a thin _opaque_ coating or "mask" to the back of the
+spoon. Sauce of this thickness is produced by using one ounce (exact
+weight) of flour of fine quality to half a pint of liquid. Meat, fish,
+or vegetables over which sauce of this consistency has been poured will
+be quite masked, but the sauce will not be too thick to serve readily
+with a spoon. This consistency is worth some practice to attain, for it
+is the perfection of sauce-making.
+
+White sauce, when intended for the foundation of others, it must be
+observed, is made twice as thick, to allow for the addition of cream,
+wine, or stock. The only advantage in a private family of making it thus
+thick is when, perhaps, two or three sauces are needed for a dinner; for
+example, a plain white sauce for a vegetable, caper, lobster, or
+cardinal for other purposes, and perhaps poulette, d'Uxelles, or other
+pale sauce for an entrée; but when one sauce only is required, it is
+best to make that one from the beginning; that is to say, make white
+sauce with the additions that form it into Allemande, suprême, or
+whatever you require.
+
+_Ste. Ménehould Sauce_ is in these days chiefly associated with "pigs'
+feet à la Ste. Ménehould," but is good for several purposes. It is
+simply half a pint of white sauce into which a dozen bruised mushrooms,
+a gill of the mushroom liquor, a large teaspoonful of finely chopped
+chives, with the sixth of a saltspoonful of pepper and one of salt are
+allowed to simmer until the sauce is the same thickness as before the
+addition of the mushroom liquor; that is to say, thick enough to mask
+the spoon. Strain, return to the saucepan, and add a teaspoonful of
+finely chopped sage leaves, if for pigs' feet, or parsley for other
+purposes; boil once, add half a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and the
+sauce is ready.
+
+_Béarnaise Sauce._--This is one of the most difficult sauces to make, on
+account of the danger of the eggs curdling; but by the following method
+the work is rendered more sure than by the usual plan. It has been said
+that the terrors of a cook are Béarnaise sauce and omelette soufflée,
+but neither is really difficult; great care only is necessary for
+success with each.
+
+Chop four shallots fine, put them into a saucepan with half a gill of
+Tarragon vinegar and half a gill of plain vinegar; boil till reduced to
+one tablespoonful; then add one gill of white sauce, mixing well. Stand
+the saucepan in another of boiling water; then add, one at a time, three
+yolks of eggs, beating each, one well in before adding another, _and on
+no account let the sauce boil_. Remove the saucepan from the fire when
+the eggs are all in and show signs of thickening. Have ready three
+ounces of butter cut into small pieces; drop one in at a time, and with
+an egg-whisk beat the sauce till the butter is blended; then add another
+piece, and so on, till all the butter is used. If added too quickly the
+butter will oil, therefore great care must be taken to see one piece
+entirely blend before adding another. The butter will probably salt the
+sauce enough, but if not, add a very little salt. This sauce should have
+the appearance of a Welsh-rabbit when ready to spread; in other words,
+it should be very thick, smooth, and dark yellow.
+
+_Soubise._--This sauce, which transforms ordinary mutton-chops into
+"côtelettes à la Soubise," is very easily made. Boil half a dozen
+Bermuda onions (medium size) in milk till quite tender; press out all
+the milk; chop them as fine as possible; sprinkle a quarter of a
+saltspoonful of white pepper and one of salt over them; then stir them
+with a tablespoonful of butter into half a pint of white sauce. If the
+onions should thin the sauce too much (they are sometimes very watery),
+thicken with a yolk of egg, or blend a teaspoonful of flour with the
+butter before stirring it in. Boil the sauce three minutes. Needless to
+say, if the yolk of egg is added, it must be beaten in after the sauce
+is removed from the stove, and only allowed to thicken, not boil.
+
+The sauces so far given are what French cooks call "grand sauces." They
+are the most important part of the dish with which they are served, and,
+as we have seen, give the name to it. There are numberless other sauces
+of which the white sauce is parent that are, however, not indispensable
+to the dish they are served with--by which I mean a boiled fish may be
+served with oyster sauce or Dutch sauce, the sauce being in this case
+simply the adjunct.
+
+A dessertspoonful of capers put into half a pint of white sauce, with a
+teaspoonful of the vinegar, makes caper sauce.
+
+Celery sauce is, again, white sauce with the pulp of boiled celery. Boil
+the white part of four heads of celery (sliced thin) in milk till it
+will mash; this will take an hour, perhaps more; then rub the pulp
+through a coarse sieve, and stir it into half a pint of white sauce made
+with half rich cream.
+
+Oyster sauce is white sauce made by using the oyster liquor instead of
+stock. The oysters should be bearded, just allowed to plump in the
+liquor, which must then be strained for the sauce, using a gill of it
+with a gill of thick cream to make half a pint; for this quantity a
+dozen and a half of small oysters will be required.
+
+Shrimp sauce, parsley sauce, lobster sauce, cucumber sauce, and all the
+family are white sauce with the addition of the ingredient naming it.
+Cucumber sauce, which is approved for fish, is made by grating a
+cucumber, and adding it, with the water from it, to some white sauce;
+boil till well flavored, and then strain. If too thin, boil till thick,
+stirring carefully.
+
+For shrimp sauce canned shrimps serve very well indeed; they must be
+thrown for a minute into cold water, well stirred in it to remove
+superfluous salt, then drained, and dried on a cloth. Put a gill of
+shrimps to half a pint of béchamel made with fish stock, boil once, and
+stir in just enough essence of anchovy to make the sauce a pale shrimp
+pink.
+
+Cardinal sauce is a handsome sauce for boiled fish. It is made by drying
+the coral from a lobster, then pounding it quite smooth, with one ounce
+of butter, until it is a perfectly smooth paste. Stir this into half a
+pint of béchamel. It should be a fine red when mixed; pass through a
+sieve, and add as much cayenne as will go on the end of the blade of a
+small penknife.
+
+Hollandaise or Dutch sauce is best made in the following way. There are
+other methods, but this one meets general approval, is not difficult,
+and agrees with many who cannot possibly eat it when oil is used.
+
+Make half a pint of drawn butter by melting one ounce of butter with one
+ounce of flour over the fire; let them bubble together (stirring the
+while) for one minute; then stir in half a pint of boiling water and
+half a teaspoonful of salt. So far, the making is exactly the same as
+for white sauce, except that water is used instead of cream and stock.
+Boil once, then set the saucepan in another of water, and break up an
+ounce of butter into small pieces and add them; stir briskly after each
+piece is added, and see it blend before putting more. When all is in,
+add the beaten yolks of five eggs, removing the saucepan from the fire
+while doing it. They must be very carefully and gradually stirred in,
+and when well mixed returned to the fire until they _begin_ to thicken.
+The eggs must be kept from curdling. Squeeze in two teaspoonfuls of
+lemon juice, and add just a dust of cayenne. This should be a thick,
+yellow, custard-like sauce, and have a perceptible acidity without being
+sour.
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+BROWN SAUCES.
+
+
+It has been already stated that the family of brown sauces, like the
+white, have one parent, _Espagnole_, or Spanish sauce, which is the
+foundation for Châteaubriand, Financière, Robert, Poivrade, Piquante,
+and other sauces. Ordinary brown sauce, like ordinary white, is often
+made without stock--simply an ounce of flour, one of butter, browned
+together, and half a pint of boiling water added, then boiled till thick
+and smooth. But it may be safely said that in high-class dark sauces
+water should play no part; its place must be taken by stock of good
+quality, which is often enriched by reducing or adding glaze.
+
+The characteristics of finely made Spanish sauce are a clear beautiful
+brown, by no means approaching black, absolute freedom from grease, and
+a fine high flavor, so well blended that no particular spice or herb can
+be detected. Spanish sauce is made as follows: Wash, peel, and cut small
+six mushrooms (or a dessertspoonful of mushroom powder), one small
+carrot, one small onion, and one shallot; dry them, and fry them a fine
+brown in a tablespoonful of butter, but do not let them burn; drain off
+the butter. Melt in a copper saucepan two ounces of butter and two
+ounces of flour, stir them together over the fire till of a pale bright
+brown, then add a pint of stock, the fried vegetables, and a gill of
+tomato sauce; let all gently simmer for half an hour with the cover off.
+Strain through a fine sieve. When Spanish sauce is to be served without
+any addition, and not as a foundation, a wineglass of sherry is used and
+the same quantity of stock omitted.
+
+It becomes Châteaubriand by the addition of a wineglass of sherry
+reduced to half a glass by boiling in a tiny saucepan, a
+dessertspoonful of fresh parsley very finely chopped, and the juice of
+half a small lemon. These must be added to _one third_ the quantity of
+Espagnole, or Spanish sauce, given in the foregoing recipe. Then stir in
+gradually, bit by bit, one ounce of butter, letting each piece blend
+before adding more.
+
+I have said here and elsewhere, "the juice of half a small lemon." Yet I
+would caution the reader to squeeze it in gradually, because some lemons
+are intensely sour, and a very few drops of juice from such go farther
+than that of the whole half of an average lemon. Châteaubriand sauce is
+by no means acid; there must be only a just perceptible dash of acidity,
+and only so much lemon juice used as will give it zest. Piquante sauce
+is different; there should be acidity enough to provoke appetite; yet
+even this should be by no means sour.
+
+To make _Piquante sauce_, chop a shallot fine, put it, with a
+tablespoonful of vinegar, into a very small saucepan; let them stew
+together until the vinegar is _entirely absorbed_, but do not let it
+burn. Then add to it half a pint of Spanish sauce and a gill of stock,
+with a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme; cook very gently ten minutes,
+remove the thyme and bay-leaf, and add a dessertspoonful of chopped
+pickled cucumber, a teaspoonful of capers, and a dessertspoonful of
+_finely_ chopped parsley. Simmer very slowly ten minutes more; then add
+enough cayenne to lay on the tip of a penknife blade.
+
+_Poivrade_ resembles piquante sauce very closely, differing from it,
+however, by the addition of wine and higher flavoring. To make it, fry
+an onion and a small carrot cut fine, a tomato sliced, and an ounce of
+lean ham in two ounces of butter; let them brown slightly; then add to
+them half a pint of claret, a bouquet of herbs, two cloves, and six
+peppercorns; let them simmer till the wine is reduced one half; then add
+half a pint of good Spanish sauce, boil gently ten minutes, strain, and
+serve very hot. A true French poivrade has a _soupçon_ of garlic,
+obtained by rubbing a crust on a clove of it, and simmering it in the
+sauce before straining it; but although many would like the scarcely
+perceptible zest imparted by this cautious use of garlic, no one should
+try the experiment unless sure of her company.
+
+A "bouquet of herbs" always means two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme,
+one of marjoram, and a bay-leaf, so rolled together (the bay-leaf in the
+middle) and tied that there is no difficulty in removing it from any
+dish which is not to be strained.
+
+The well-known _Bordelaise sauce_ is simply Spanish sauce with the
+addition of white wine and shallots. Scald a tablespoonful of chopped
+shallots; put them to half a pint of Chablis, Sauterne, or any similar
+white wine; let the wine reduce to one gill; then mix with it half a
+pint of Spanish sauce and the sixth part of a saltspoonful of pepper.
+Strain and serve.
+
+_Robert sauce_, that excellent adjunct to beefsteak, varies again from
+Bordelaise, vinegar and mustard and fried onions taking the place of the
+wine and shallot. Chop three medium-sized onions quite fine; fry them in
+a tablespoonful of butter until they are a clear yellowish-brown,
+stirring them constantly as they fry; drain them, and put them to a
+half-pint of Spanish sauce, to which you add a wineglass of stock (to
+allow for boiling away); simmer gently twenty minutes; add a pinch of
+pepper; strain; then mix a teaspoonful of vinegar in a cup with a
+teaspoonful of mustard; stir this into the sauce.
+
+_Sauce à la Normande_ is one of the most delicious sauces for baked fish
+of any kind, although usually associated with sole. To half a pint of
+Spanish sauce add a dozen mushrooms sliced in half, a dozen small
+oysters with the beards removed, and a dozen crawfish, if they are to be
+had, or their place may be taken by a tablespoonful of shrimps picked
+(canned shrimps, washed and dried, answer very well), one tablespoonful
+of essence of anchovy, and just a dust of Cayenne pepper.
+
+Light _Normande_ is made by using béchamel instead of Spanish sauce,
+adding all the other materials; it is then a pale salmon-colored sauce,
+excellent for boiled fish.
+
+A favorite English sauce for fish, which is also brown or pink,
+according to whether it is intended for baked or boiled fish, is the
+_Downton sauce_. To three quarters of a pint of béchamel add a
+dessertspoonful of anchovy essence and a small wineglass of sherry, mix
+well, and serve.
+
+_Orange sauce_ for game is made with half a pint of Spanish sauce boiled
+five minutes to make it rather thicker than usual, the juice of three
+sweet oranges, and the peel of one. This peel must be so thinly pared as
+to be transparent. Boil this peel half an hour in water, then shred it
+into fine even strips half an inch long, and not thicker than broom
+straw. Stew this shredded peel another half-hour in a gill of stock,
+with a scant teaspoonful of sugar; then add it to the sauce, with half
+a saltspoonful of salt, and boil five minutes.
+
+_Matelote_ may come in with the brown sauces, although it is not made
+with Spanish sauce as a foundation, but only with strong stock. It is
+used to simmer fish in when directed to be _à la matelote_, and if it
+were already thickened the whole would burn. It is made as follows: Half
+a pint of Sauterne or Chablis, half a pint of rich stock, two
+bay-leaves, three leaves of tarragon, chervil, and chive, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper; simmer these until
+reduced to one half-pint. A _touch_ of garlic is indispensable to the
+true matelote, but when used it must be done with the greatest caution;
+a fork stuck into a clove of it, then stirred in the sauce (the fork,
+when withdrawn, not the garlic), or a crust rubbed once across a piece
+of it, is the only way in which it should be used.
+
+Like the white sauces, the family of brown ones is very large, but I
+have given those which require special directions. Others are simply
+Spanish sauce with the addition of the ingredient which gives its name
+to it, as brown oyster sauce is simply Spanish sauce with oysters,
+celery sauce, mushroom sauce, and so on. It should always be remembered
+that the consistency must be preserved; that is to say, except when
+special mention is made of the sauce being thinner, it should "mask the
+spoon," and if the addition made to it is of a kind to dilute it, as
+mushrooms and part of their liquor, it must be rapidly boiled down to
+the original thickness. In the same way, when ingredients have to be
+simmered in the sauce--and this is very often the case--then a
+wineglassful or half one of broth or stock should be allowed for the
+wasting.
+
+In the next chapter we will make acquaintance with the miscellaneous
+sauces which are not built on the foundation of either white or brown
+sauce. These are chiefly cold sauces, although served with hot dishes at
+times, as Tartare, Remoulade, etc.
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+COLD SAUCES.
+
+
+Cold dishes, which are such a pleasing feature of foreign cookery, are
+much neglected with us, at least in private kitchens, or they are
+limited to two or three articles served in mayonnaise, or a galantine,
+yet the dishes which the French call _chaudfroids_ are both delicious
+and ornamental, and it only requires a little taste, care, and _perfect
+sauce_ to convert the ordinary cold chicken, turkey, or game into an
+elaborate and choice dish.
+
+Among cold sauces, of course mayonnaise, both green, red, and yellow,
+reigns supreme; indeed, of late years it has become almost hackneyed.
+Yet no work on choice eating would be complete without the different
+forms of mayonnaise.
+
+Mayonnaise is one of those sauces in which everything depends on care,
+and very little on skill, and yet some women have quite a reputation for
+making it among their friends who often declare how unsuccessful their
+own efforts have been, and that to succeed is a gift. It is not as a
+novelty, therefore, that the manner of making it is given here, but that
+those who believe they have not the "magic fingers" may take courage and
+try again.
+
+First of all let me explain what seems to puzzle many. I have been
+frequently asked, "How much oil can I use to two eggs?" the answer is,
+"As much as you choose;" or, again, "How many eggs ought I to take to a
+quart of oil?" again the answer is, "One, two, three, or four." The egg
+is only a foundation, and mayonnaise will "come" no better with two
+yolks than one, although some _chefs_ consider it keeps better when two
+eggs are used to a pint of oil.
+
+A cool room is always insisted on for making the sauce, but to the
+amateur I say, oil, eggs, and bowl also, should be put in the ice-box
+until well chilled, and even then mishaps may come from using a warm
+spoon from a hot kitchen drawer or closet; that, therefore, must be cool
+also. Of course it is often successfully made with only the usual
+precaution of a cool room, but with everything well chilled it is hard
+to fail.
+
+If very little of the sauce is wanted, one yolk of egg will be better
+than two. Separate the yolks very carefully, allowing not a speck of
+white to remain; remove also the germ which is attached to the yolk.
+_Stir the yolk at least a minute before_ beginning to add oil; then
+arrange your bottle or a sharp-spouted pitcher in your left hand so that
+it rests on the edge of the bowl, and you can keep up a pretty steady
+drop, drop, into the egg, while you stir with your right steadily. The
+oil must be added drop by drop, but this does not mean a drop every two
+or three minutes; you may add a drop to every one or two circuits of
+the spoon. The reason for adding it slowly is that each drop may form an
+emulsion with the egg before more goes in. After two or three minutes
+look carefully at the mixture; if it has not begun to look pale and
+opaque, but retains a dark, oily appearance, stir it steadily for two
+minutes, and then add oil slowly, drop by drop, stirring all the time.
+If it has not now begun to thicken, it probably will not; but the
+materials are not lost. Put the yolk of another egg into a cool bowl,
+and begin again using the egg and oil you have already mixed, in place
+of fresh oil. When this is all used, proceed with the oil (it is hoped,
+however, that the work will have proceeded without the necessity for
+beginning afresh). When the mayonnaise becomes quite thick, use a few
+drops of vinegar to thin it; then more oil, until sufficient sauce is
+made. Then white pepper and salt should be added for seasoning. The
+vinegar used should be very strong, so that very little of it will be
+sufficient to give the necessary acidity, without making it too thin.
+This is especially the case when the sauce is required to mask salad. It
+should for this purpose be set on ice until firm, but in all cases be
+kept cold. The best mayonnaise, left in a warm kitchen, would separate
+and become oily. The stirring must be steady and constant, and the task
+must not be left until completed.
+
+Mayonnaise is the basis of several other sauces, so that in
+accomplishing it a great deal is done.
+
+Green mayonnaise is made by dropping a bunch of parsley into boiling
+water, and in a minute or two, when it becomes intensely green, take it
+up, pound it in a mortar, and then through a sieve. Use as much pulp as
+will color the sauce a delicate green.
+
+Red mayonnaise, used for cardinal salad and other purposes, is made by
+pounding lobster coral very fine and stirring it in. It must not be
+forgotten that anything added to mayonnaise must be ice-cold.
+
+_Aspic mayonnaise_ is another form of the sauce, used in dressing cold
+dishes, and while more delicious than the usual sauce, will keep its
+form for hours after the dish is dressed. It is absolutely necessary to
+prepare it on ice. Put half a pint of stiff aspic jelly into a bowl set
+in cracked ice, whisk it with an egg-beater until it is a white froth
+(usually the motion will melt it, but to save labor it may be set in
+lukewarm water to soften, then beaten, but no oil must be added until it
+is again ice-cold froth); then beat in very gradually a quarter of a
+pint of olive oil and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, proceeding
+with the same care as for the usual mayonnaise; add a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and the same of powdered sugar.
+
+_Norwegian sauce_ is preferred by many to Tartare for some purposes, and
+is made by adding _freshly_ grated horseradish to mayonnaise in the
+proportion of two tablespoonfuls to half a pint.
+
+_Tartare sauce_ is mayonnaise with the addition of mustard, chives,
+pickles, and tarragon, chopped. As usually served, it has only mustard
+and capers or chopped cucumber, but for those to whom a slight flavor of
+onion is not disagreeable, chives should be added. To half a pint of
+mayonnaise use a teaspoonful of dry mustard mixed with two of tarragon
+vinegar, then stir into the sauce. To this add a tablespoonful either of
+capers or chopped pickled cucumber; this is the usual Tartare sauce; but
+the French recipe is a tablespoonful of very finely chopped chives, a
+teaspoonful each of fresh tarragon and chervil in place of the pickles.
+
+_Cold cucumber sauce_ is mayonnaise with an equal quantity of grated
+cucumber, drained, pressed, and stirred into it, with a saltspoonful of
+salt and a few drops of very strong vinegar.
+
+_Horseradish sauce_ is a very good sauce for hot or cold beef, roast or
+boiled. Grate three tablespoonfuls of horseradish fine, put to it a
+teaspoonful of sugar, one of salt, and one of vinegar, or a
+tablespoonful of Chablis wine; let them soak an hour or two, and the
+last thing before serving stir in four tablespoonfuls of cream that is
+whipped very solid. A half-teaspoonful of dry mustard is sometimes mixed
+with the horseradish, but that is a matter of taste. When the sauce is
+to be served hot, two yolks of egg and two tablespoonfuls of water must
+be substituted for cream, which would curdle. The water, horseradish,
+etc., must first come to the boiling-point, then the eggs added
+gradually, and just allowed to thicken, not to boil.
+
+_Mint Sauce._--Take only the young, tender leaves, not a bit of stem,
+and chop very fine indeed. To two tablespoonfuls add a tablespoonful and
+a half of brown sugar and three of vinegar. It should be quite thick,
+not as we so often see it--vinegar with a few bits of mint floating
+around.
+
+_Mint Jelly_ for masking cold lamb or cutlets.--Take two tablespoonfuls
+of Spanish sauce, and dissolve in it a good teaspoonful of gelatine
+softened in cold stock, a tablespoonful of aspic, and one of thick mint
+sauce. If no aspic is ready, it is not worth while to make for the small
+quantity needed; a teaspoonful of glaze, two of gelatine, and half a
+wineglass of Sauterne may be dissolved together to take its place. No
+gelatine will be needed with the Spanish sauce in this case.
+
+Sweet sauces will be left until the desserts are treated of.
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+SOUPS.
+
+
+It is not proposed to give the soups to be found readily in most
+cooking-books in these pages, but only those less known or of peculiar
+excellence.
+
+It is supposed that the reader understands the making of good beef or
+veal stock, and perhaps the usual way of clearing it. But since cooking
+has been studied scientifically, improvements on methods have been
+introduced; one of these is the clearing of soup with albumen of _meat_
+instead of egg. The advantages of this method are that the soup is
+strengthened and the flavor improved, while clearing with whites of eggs
+in the usual way, though greatly improving the appearance, tends to
+lessen the flavor of soup.
+
+_To clear Consommé with Beef._--Consommé is reduced stock, or stock
+made of extra strength. Carefully remove all fat from three pints of it
+when cold. It will, of course, be a stiff jelly. Chop fine an onion, a
+carrot, and a turnip. Chop half a pound of lean beef from which all fat
+is removed; this is best put through a chopping-machine, as it must be
+very fine. Put the consommé, meat, and vegetables into a saucepan. Stir
+them briskly till just on the boiling-point. Remove the spoon, let the
+soup boil up well one minute. It should now be clear. Take a clean
+cloth, fix it on a soup stand or in a colander, pour boiling water
+through it, to warm it thoroughly; throw the water away, and pour the
+soup gently through the cloth twice; do not press or stir it. It will be
+beautifully clear and of excellent color. It is now ready to serve for a
+variety of soups, named according to what is served in them.
+
+_Consommé à la Rachel._--This is consommé to which is added tiny
+quenelles made in eggspoons, and colored red, green, and black.
+Quenelle meat is made from the uncooked breast of chicken or game, the
+backs of hares or rabbits (or it may be made for certain purposes of
+fish or very white veal), first chopped, and then pounded in a mortar
+until it is a perfectly smooth paste. Mere chopped meat is not what is
+required; it must be fine enough to go through a sieve. For Consommé à
+la Rachel, however, the breast of chicken is necessary. Take four ounces
+of chicken, free from skin and sinew; pound it until quite smooth; the
+more it is pounded the better it is. Mix with it thick cream, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, very little pepper, and half a beaten egg, until
+it is a softish paste, yet firm enough to mould; mix thoroughly. Now try
+a little by poaching in a teaspoon; that is, fill a teaspoon with the
+mixture, pressing it in form, then drop it into boiling water for three
+minutes. Open the quenelle and taste it; if it is creamy, light, and
+well flavored, it is right, but if there is the least toughness, add a
+little more cream to the mixture. Notice also the seasoning; if more
+salt is needed, add it carefully, and try again, till you have the
+quenelle mixture just right, that is to say, creamy, light, very tender,
+yet keeping its form. At present quenelles as entrées or for soups form
+such an important part of fine cooking that it is worth while to get the
+mixture perfect for other purposes than the present.
+
+Having your quenelle meat ready, proceed to vary it as follows, allowing
+one quenelle of each color to each guest: For the green quenelles use
+sufficient pounded tarragon to color one third the meat delicately. For
+the second use sufficient lobster coral pounded to redden it. The third
+must be made dark with pounded truffles. Great care must be taken to
+keep the three portions separate, so that one color may not injure the
+other. To form them use two very small coffeespoons or eggspoons, as the
+quenelles should not be larger than _small_ olives; butter the spoons
+slightly, and when formed drop each for one or two minutes into boiling
+pale-colored stock. Drop them, as they are done, into cold water, in
+which they must be kept until you are ready to use them. When the soup
+is to be served, drain them, lay the number required in the tureen, and
+pour the boiling consommé on them. They will not require heating in the
+soup. It may be observed that raw spinach pounded and rubbed through a
+sieve, and boiled red beet, may be used to color the meat green and red,
+and the rest left white. The consommé is then called Consommé d'Orleans.
+
+_Consommé aux Oeufs filés._--Put one quart of cleared consommé to
+boil. Mix one egg, one dessertspoonful of flour, one tablespoonful of
+milk, a pinch between forefinger and thumb of salt, and a dust of
+pepper, into a batter, rub a nutmeg once back and forth over the grater,
+and stir. When the soup boils, pass this batter through a fine strainer
+into it. It should look like threads.
+
+_Consommé à la Sévigné._--Pound two ounces of breast of cooked chicken
+until it will pass through a wide sieve. Mix with it two eggs, three
+tablespoonfuls of milk, twelve drops of almond essence, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, as much nutmeg as will go on the end of a penknife
+blade, and a dust of cayenne. When well blended, fill three or four
+small round muffin pans, well greased, and steam slowly twenty minutes,
+or until set. Turn out very carefully; let them cool; then cut them into
+fancy shapes, and serve in one quart of boiling consommé. A few
+asparagus points boiled until just tender, but not mushy, are to be
+dropped in the last thing.
+
+_Potage à la Hollandaise._--For this will be required one quart of veal
+or chicken stock, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, four yolks
+of eggs, half a pint of cream, one gill of green peas, one gill of
+boiled carrots, one gill of boiled cucumber, one teaspoonful of fresh
+tarragon chopped fine, one teaspoonful of sugar, and one teaspoonful of
+salt. Trim the carrots and cucumber with a very small scoop or cutter
+the size and shape of peas; cook them just tender, and no more, in
+boiling water. Put the stock on to boil; skim if necessary; add the salt
+and sugar. Break the eggs into a bowl, add the cream to them, and beat
+them till well mixed. This forms a "liaison." Make the butter and flour
+into a paste in a bowl, pour half a gill of cold stock to it, then
+enough hot stock to dissolve it; when mixed smooth, stir it into the
+boiling stock, let it boil, then remove from the fire, and stir in very
+carefully, to prevent curdling, the liaison of eggs and cream; let it
+come to the boiling-point, but not boil, or it will curdle. Strain it
+into a clean stewpan, and add the vegetables; let all get hot together;
+then strew in the tarragon.
+
+_Chestnut Soup (purée de marrons)._--Slit twenty-five large chestnuts at
+each end, put them in boiling water, and boil ten minutes. Drop them
+into cold water, and remove both the outer and inner skin. Melt three
+ounces of butter in a saucepan, put in the chestnuts, and sauté (toss
+them about) for a few minutes, but do not brown them; then add a pint
+and a half of rich white stock, and let the nuts boil in it until very
+tender, when they must be rubbed through a fine sieve. Boil up again,
+add half a pint of cream, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a teaspoonful
+of salt (less if the stock be salted), and a pinch of pepper.
+
+_Princess Soup._--Cut a chicken in pieces; wash it; butter a stewpan,
+put in the chicken with a blade of mace, an onion, a bay-leaf, and
+twelve white peppercorns. Let this simmer, _closely covered_, ten
+minutes, shaking it often to prevent its browning; then put to it two
+quarts of hot veal stock, and simmer one hour. Put into another stewpan
+two ounces of flour and two ounces of butter; stir them together, and
+let them bubble once, then strain the liquor from the chicken to it;
+stir well, and cook a few minutes. Take the white meat from the bones of
+the chicken, pound it in a mortar very fine, stir it to the stock, then
+rub through a soup strainer; add just before serving half a pint of
+fresh cream and the juice of half a lemon. This soup must be made hot,
+but not boil, after the chicken pulp and cream are added.
+
+_Potage à la Royale._--Boil two ounces of macaroni till tender, but not
+broken; throw it into cold water. Put three pints of white stock to
+boil; cut the macaroni into lengths half an inch long; beat three yolks
+of eggs in a bowl with a gill of cream; throw the macaroni into the
+soup; when it boils, remove from the fire, add the cream and eggs and an
+ounce of grated Parmesan cheese; stir till the soup reaches the
+boiling-point, but by no means let it boil, after the cream and eggs are
+added, or it will be spoiled. Salt soup always in the proportion of a
+moderate teaspoonful of salt to the quart; if the stock is seasoned,
+only add salt for the cream, eggs, etc. Use just a suspicion of cayenne.
+In making soup to which eggs are added, the utmost care is required, yet
+not any more than in making custard. The main point is to let the eggs
+come near enough to the boiling-point to thicken, yet far enough from it
+not to curdle. This a little patience will accomplish by watching and
+removing the saucepan for a few seconds as the boiling-point approaches,
+then returning it; do this once or twice, till the opaque, creamy
+appearance shows the eggs are done.
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+FISH ENTRÉES.
+
+
+Instead of giving recipes for cooking fish whole, for which excellent
+directions are to be found in several modern cookery books, recipes for
+fish entrées will be substituted. They are now frequently served at the
+fish course, and by their convenience and economy, as well as the
+variety they afford, are likely to grow in favor. Another point for them
+is that they can often be made hours before, and simply heated when
+needed, thus relieving the cook of the most critical part of her work at
+the time when she needs her attention free.
+
+Some of these entrées will be more suited for breakfast, luncheon, or
+supper dishes than to precede a heavy dinner, such, for instance, as the
+preparations of oysters when they have been also served before soup;
+but the recipes are included here for their intrinsic worth.
+
+_Fillets of Cod à la Normande._--Butter a tin dish, lay on it three
+slices of cod moderately thick (an inch to an inch and a half), pour
+over them one wineglass of white wine, place a buttered paper over them,
+and bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. Reduce another glass of
+wine in a stewpan by simmering, add to it half a pint of white sauce,
+twelve small oysters, bearded and blanched, twelve small
+quenelles,[62-*] and twelve button mushrooms. Season with pepper and
+salt. Simmer one minute only, or the oysters will harden. Place the
+slices of fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, place the
+oysters, mushrooms, and quenelles in groups in the corners of the dish.
+
+_Lobster Soufflées._--Cut up the meat of a boiled hen lobster into neat
+dice, showing as much of the red as possible. Prepare as many small
+ramekin or soufflée cases as may be required by pinning bands of
+writing-paper round them two to three inches higher than the case. Take
+three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise, half a pint of stiff aspic jelly,
+and a gill of tomato sauce in which a teaspoonful of gelatine has been
+dissolved. Every utensil used must be ice-cold, the jelly must be quite
+cold, but not set. Put the tomato sauce, the jelly, and the mayonnaise
+(which should be left on the ice till the last thing) into a bowl set in
+another bowl of pounded ice; whisk them together until they begin to
+look white; then stir the lobster in it, with a teaspoonful of very
+finely chopped chervil and tarragon; fill the soufflée cases, piling the
+dressing high; put them on a dish on ice. When they are "set," carefully
+remove the paper bands, sprinkle a little dried and sifted lobster coral
+over the tops, and serve.
+
+_Coquilles of Prawns._--Pick the shells from four dozen prawns; mix
+with one third the quantity of mushrooms slightly stewed in a
+tablespoonful of butter and a saltspoonful of salt (the mushrooms must
+not be brown); add four tablespoonfuls of Allemande sauce;[64-*] fill
+the shells, which must be well buttered, dress each over with fine bread
+crumbs which have been carefully fried a golden brown; put them in a
+cool oven twenty minutes, only get thoroughly hot, but not to cook.
+
+_Coquilles of Salmon or Halibut._--Take one pound of cold halibut or
+salmon; break it into small pieces; put it in a stewpan with half a
+saltspoonful of salt and a tiny pinch of pepper, and half a pint of
+white sauce, a tablespoonful of very thick cream, and a teaspoonful of
+anchovy sauce; stir well, and let all get hot. Butter some shells,
+sprinkle over with a few fried crumbs, fill with the mixture, cover with
+the fried crumbs, and put them in the oven to get thoroughly hot. Serve
+on a napkin.
+
+_Salmon en Papillotes._--Cut some slices of salmon into cutlets the
+right size for serving, make paper cases to fit them, then cover each
+slice with the following mixture: two tablespoonfuls of salad oil beaten
+with the yolk of an egg, one teaspoonful of parsley chopped, one shallot
+chopped, and one anchovy (all these must be chopped as finely as
+possible), a half-saltspoonful of salt, and a grain of cayenne; mix,
+spread on the fish, envelop each piece in a well-buttered case, fasten
+up (by pinching the paper well), and bake half an hour. Serve in the
+papers.
+
+_Fillet of Sole à la Normande._--In speaking of sole, one of course
+means the flounder, which is coming to be called the American sole, and
+when filleted does make a fair substitute for the real thing, and it is
+suitable for cooking in every way that the English sole can be used,
+except whole. A boiled flounder without filleting, or a flounder fried
+whole, as is so often done with sole, would be very coarse. Fillet two
+flounders (in cities this will be done by the fishmonger, but in the
+country it may have to be done in the kitchen, therefore directions for
+doing it will be appended), lay the fillets, neatly trimmed and shaped,
+into a thickly buttered pan or dish--either fire-proof porcelain or any
+other that can go to table--pour over them a glass of sherry and four
+tablespoonfuls of consommé; cover with oiled paper, and bake ten minutes
+in a moderate oven; take out the pan, pour over the fillets half a pint
+of _sauce Normande_; return to the oven for five minutes, and serve in
+the pan.
+
+_Sole à l'Horly._--Make a frying batter thus: mix one tablespoonful of
+milk with two ounces of flour and a tablespoonful of salad oil to a
+smooth paste; then add two yolks of eggs, and the whites whipped firm,
+with a quarter of a saltspoonful of salt; mix with an upward movement of
+the spoon, so as not to deaden the whites of eggs. Set it aside while
+you prepare the sole. Mix a tablespoonful of salad oil, a teaspoonful of
+Chili vinegar, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a teaspoonful of
+parsley and one of onion chopped exceedingly fine, a scant saltspoonful
+of salt, and a quarter one of pepper. Mix all together, then cut the
+fillets in half, trimming away all ragged appearance, and lay them for
+fifteen minutes in the mixture (called a marinade); take them out, drain
+them on a sieve, and then dip each fillet in the batter. This batter
+should be just thick enough to coat the fish and run slowly off, not
+cling in a thick paste round it. A French rule for testing the thickness
+of frying batter is to dip a spoon in it and then let a drop run off the
+end on a plate; if it drops freely, yet keeps a beadlike form, it is
+right. Fry each fillet in a wire basket three minutes in very hot deep
+fat. Serve with fried parsley.
+
+_Turbans of Sole à la Rouennaise._--As these require a little of the
+same mixture as would be used for lobster cutlets or croquettes, it is
+good management to have them when lobster is required for something
+else. The mixture for the cutlets is made as follows (less than a fourth
+of it would be required for the turbans): remove all the flesh from a
+boiled hen lobster; chop it small; wash, dry, and pound the coral, with
+an ounce of butter; take one gill of white sauce, mix the lobster coral
+and a tablespoonful of cream with it, and boil five minutes; mix in the
+lobster with a little salt (unless the lobster is salt enough) and a
+grain of cayenne. This made into cutlets, egged, crumbed, and fried, is
+excellent, but our purpose now is to use it for stuffing. Take as many
+fillets of sole as required, spread the lobster mixture on each, roll
+them up, run a toothpick through them to keep them in shape; trim till
+each will stand; put them on a buttered baking-sheet, cover with
+buttered paper, and bake ten minutes. Chop up two truffles, two
+hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and a tablespoonful of parsley, each chopped
+separately. Take up the turbans, pour over them half a pint of cardinal
+sauce, and ornament the turbans, one with the truffles, one with the
+yolk of egg, and one with parsley; so on alternately.
+
+_Directions for Filleting Flounders._--Take a sharp knife, cut away the
+fins all round the fish, and split the flounder right down the middle of
+the back, then run the knife carefully between the flesh and bones,
+going towards the edge. You have now detached one quarter of the flesh
+from the bone; do the other half in the same way, and when the back is
+thus entirely loose from the bone, turn the fish over and do the same
+with the other side. You will now find you can remove the bone whole
+from the fish, detaching, as you do so, any flesh still retaining the
+bone. Then you have two halves of the fish, and you have four quarters
+of solid fish. To remove the skin, take the tail end firmly between the
+thumb and forefinger of the left hand, hold the skin side downward on
+the board, and with your knife make an incision across the flesh, then,
+keeping the skin firmly between your thumb and finger, _push_ the knife
+between it and the flesh, slightly humoring it to prevent tearing the
+flesh. The skin parts quite easily, but no attempt must be made to _cut_
+the fish from it.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[62-*] See Quenelles in No. VI.
+
+[64-*] See directions in No. II.
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING OYSTERS.
+
+
+_Oysters à la Villeroi._--Scald (or blanch) some large oysters, dry
+them, then drop them into some _very thick_ Villeroi sauce,[71-*] let
+them get hot in it, but not boil. Take them out one by one; be sure they
+are thickly coated with the sauce; have a large dish heaped with sifted
+crumbs or cracker meal; as you lift each oyster from the sauce lay it on
+the meal, turn it gently over in the meal, so that a light coat adheres,
+and the sauce is by no means rubbed off. Place them on an oiled plate
+where they will get quite cold, so that the sauce may chill and form a
+whitish glaze under the crumbs. Beat two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of
+water, and when free from strings dip each oyster in the egg, using a
+small fork; let superfluous egg drip off for a moment, then lay the
+oyster again on a deep bed of cracker crumbs, cover well, pat very
+gently, and lay each as you do it on a dish sprinkled with them. Fry two
+minutes in very hot deep fat, being careful the oysters do not touch
+each other.
+
+If I have made these directions as clear as I hope, it will be
+understood that each oyster has a rich creamy coating under the crumbs,
+and every effort must be made to avoid breaking the outer shell of egg
+and crumb. For this reason the fat should be heated to 400°. But
+although great care in handling is necessary, they are not difficult to
+succeed with when that care is given.
+
+_Oyster Kabobs._--There are two ways of preparing these dainties, and I
+give both. For those who cannot eat bacon the first will probably be
+acceptable. For kabobs of any kind, silver or plated skewers are proper,
+although very slender wooden ones may be used. Put in a stewpan a small
+onion chopped _very fine_, a dessertspoonful of parsley, and a dozen
+mushrooms, also chopped; let these fry one minute in a large
+tablespoonful of butter, add a dessertspoonful (scant) of flour, stir
+all together, then drop in as many fat oysters as are required; they
+must have been blanched in their own liquor and the beards removed; stir
+all round, and add three beaten yolks of eggs, one at a time, taking
+care they do not curdle, but get just thick enough to cling round the
+oyster. String six oysters on each little skewer, basting with the sauce
+wherever it does not adhere; let each skewer cool, then roll the whole
+in beaten eggs and abundant cracker meal, so that the skewer will seem
+to be run through a sausage lengthwise. Fry two minutes in very hot deep
+fat, serve on a napkin; allow one skewer to each person. Two minutes, if
+the fat be sufficiently hot, will fry oysters a pale yellow-brown. They
+should never take longer than this, for oysters harden and shrink if
+overdone in the least. For this reason the use of a pyrometer, when
+possible, saves mistakes and trouble. Such articles as oysters, smelts,
+or any small things, should be fried at a temperature of 380° to 400°.
+It must be remembered that all fried articles darken after they leave
+the frying-kettle, and therefore a very pale yellow becomes a golden
+color on the dish.
+
+_Kabobs_ No. 2.--This is the recipe given by the author of the
+well-known Pytchley Books, and is admirable. Take the beards from as
+many fat, fair-sized oysters as required. You require bacon of which the
+fat is thick enough through to allow of circles being cut from the
+slices as large as the oysters. Cut the bacon very thin, get a cutter
+the size of the oysters, trim them with it, then cut eight circles of
+bacon for six oysters. Put first a piece of bacon, then an oyster, then
+more bacon, on each little skewer, till there are six oysters with a
+piece of bacon between each through the centre and one at each end;
+string them very evenly. Take a very little cayenne on the tip of a
+knife and a saltspoonful of salt; mix this with two beaten eggs to which
+two tablespoonfuls of water have been added. Dip each skewer of kabobs
+in this; let them drip an instant, then lay them on a deep bed of crumbs
+or cracker meal. Cover them thoroughly, shake them, then dip again into
+the egg (if this has become full of crumbs strain it), and again lay
+them in the meal. Shake lightly again, and arrange each skewer of kabobs
+in a frying-basket, and fry two minutes.
+
+I have spoken in the foregoing directions for "crumbing" of using
+_plenty_ of meal, and experience tells me that the rule with those
+unfamiliar with proper methods is to use so little that a plateful would
+be considered _plenty_. With this quantity no good work can be done. You
+need to turn on to a board or dish at least a quart of crumbs, or a
+whole box of cracker meal. This will enable you to smother the article
+until every part is covered, instead of sprinkling a little over and
+under (which generally falls off as fast as put on, and leaves a surface
+yellow with egg in parts), as you must do if a small quantity only is
+used. All the meal that is left must be carefully sifted and put away.
+If the small masses of egg and crumb which will be mixed with it are not
+sifted out the cracker-meal cannot be used again. There must also be
+plenty of egg used for dipping.
+
+_Oysters in Aspic._--For these dariole moulds are needed, or the small
+fire-proof china soufflée cases which imitate paper may be used. A
+dariole is a small straight-sided tin mould, holding rather less than a
+gill. They will be found at large house-furnishing stores, or a tinman
+could easily make them, they being, in fact, like deep corn-muffin pans.
+If they are made to order, avoid getting them too large--three inches
+deep by two across will be large enough. Fill these moulds with aspic
+jelly nearly cold, set them on ice while you prepare the oysters, which
+must be bearded and cooked till plump in butter, but not allowed to
+color. When cool, cut them in half, throw them into some stiff
+béchamel,[77-*] which must be warmed till like thick cream, sprinkle
+with a dust of cayenne; lay the oysters to get cold, that the béchamel
+may harden on them. Scoop the centre very carefully out of the moulds of
+aspic, leaving a half-inch thickness all round, fill the centres with
+the oysters, pour in more aspic, cold, but not set, and put on ice for a
+few hours, or till ready to serve. The aspic from the centres should
+have been preserved and used to chop with more to garnish the dish. Turn
+the moulds out very carefully, and garnish with chopped aspic and
+watercress or parsley.
+
+It is, of course, understood that béchamel sauce, cold, is like
+blanc-mange, and that anything coated with it will be enveloped in white
+jelly, not in a sticky white sauce. If béchamel does not become white
+jelly when cold the stock of which it is made is not stiff enough.
+
+_Lobster in Aspic_ is prepared as for salad, the solid meat cut in dice
+and rolled in mayonnaise, then in chopped chervil or parsley. Then
+proceed exactly as for the oysters.
+
+_Oysters à la Tartare._--The oyster-shells for serving oysters à la
+Tartare must be of good shape and exquisitely clean; therefore, when
+using oysters on the half-shell, always pick out any that may be deep
+yet stand well, and have a good shape; scald and scrub them, and keep
+for use. Scald as many fat oysters as required in their own liquor till
+firm--three minutes at boiling-point will usually do this; the oysters
+must be just plump, yet if underdone they will be flabby. Put them on
+ice, choose as many tiny leaves as you have oysters from the heart of a
+lettuce; they must all be of a size, or trimmed so, and the size only
+just large enough to line the shells without coming over them. Lay a
+leaf on each shell, cut each oyster in half, lay four halves in pyramid
+fashion on the lettuce leaf, and mask the top of each, just before
+serving, with Tartare sauce. Allow two to each person.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[71-*] See No. II.
+
+[77-*] See No. II.
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+VARIOUS CULINARY MATTERS.
+
+
+This little book does not pretend to go into what may be called the
+principles of cooking, except in so far as they are involved in the
+production of all choice cookery; and where it is considered that a
+principle is little known or too little attended to, the effort will be
+made to give it emphasis by reiteration here.
+
+By principles of cooking I mean the simple rules by which roasting,
+boiling, stewing, etc., are successfully accomplished. Any book or
+series of articles written a dozen years ago would have been of no real
+use without these rudiments, but within that period there have been
+cooking-schools started and cookery books written so exceedingly exact
+in directions that it will be unnecessary to repeat them in "Choice
+Cookery," which does not pretend to include family cooking.
+
+For this reason the cooking of joints of meat will not be entered into.
+Nevertheless there are certain rudiments of cooking which are not dwelt
+on usually in books. They are taught in the cooking-schools, and those
+of my readers who have had the advantage of attending them will not need
+the instruction here given. But I meet with many women who devote much
+time to the art of cooking, and who have taught themselves by book and
+experiment all they know, who yet, when told to chop a small quantity of
+herbs very fine, will struggle and chop almost leaf by leaf in their
+faithful endeavor to carry out the direction. Others, less faithful,
+finding their method chops some parts fine and leaves some leaves almost
+whole, let it go at that, with the reflection that "that _must_ do, as
+it would take all day" to get them all one degree of fineness. So,
+although it may seem almost too trivial a point to need mention, we
+will go into the matter of herb-chopping, lemon-grating, etc., that the
+simple operations may be performed easily and in a very short time.
+
+_To Chop Herbs._--Use the leaves only, never the stems; let them be
+fresh and crisp, or, if wilted, leave them in water for a time. Gather
+the leaves firmly between the thumb and three fingers of the left hand;
+shave them through with a sharp knife as you push them forward under it.
+(The process resembles chaff-cutting by hand machine.) Turn them round;
+gather them up again, and cut across them in the same way; then finish
+by chopping quickly, holding the point of the knife with the left hand
+and bringing it down on the little heap of herbs with the right, always
+gathering them together as fast as the chopping scatters them. Five
+minutes will chop a tablespoonful of mint or parsley almost to pulp. A
+sharp steel knife and a small board must be used, not the
+chopping-bowl.
+
+French books often direct so much _fine herbs_ to be used; English books
+mean the same thing when they call for "sweet herbs," and a mixture of
+one part marjoram, two parts thyme, and three parts parsley is meant by
+both.
+
+The grating of a lemon is a most simple operation, and it may seem that
+every one must know how to do it; but this is far from being the case.
+As many dishes of curdled custards and sauces are caused by this fact,
+the right way in this case is very important. The object of using grated
+rind of lemon is to obtain the fragrance and flavor, which differ very
+greatly from any extracts, however good. Now the whole of the oil which
+contains this fragrance is at the surface--is, in fact, the yellow
+portion of the rind; therefore this, and only this, must be removed with
+the grater. The white part underneath is bitter, and will cause milk or
+cream to curdle, but it contains no particle of lemon flavor. Yet when
+lemon flavor is called for the lemon is often grated right down to the
+pulp in parts, while the yellow rind is left on in patches.
+
+A lemon should be grated evenly, beginning at the end and working round
+it, using as small a surface of the grater as possible, to prevent
+waste. The habit of turning the lemon as you grate comes as easily as to
+turn an apple under the knife when peeling. Generally twice across the
+grater and back between each turn will remove all the essential oil,
+but, while guarding against grating too deeply, care must be taken to
+remove the whole of the yellow surface. A well-grated lemon should be
+exactly of the same shape as before, have no deep scores into the pith,
+and have an oily-looking surface.
+
+Perhaps before proceeding to the preparation of the combination dishes
+known as made dishes or entrées, a few words may be useful to those
+readers whose ambition to accomplish results may cause them to defeat
+their own ends. To such I would say, go slowly; never attempt the more
+difficult thing until the simpler one is beyond chance of failure. Thus
+in following the instructions in this book the wiser women will have
+accomplished, perhaps, each week one or two things they may have
+selected, and it must not be forgotten the plan of the work is that one
+recipe shall serve as a key to many others.
+
+A great many will very likely have delayed trying to make the sauces
+until the dish for which they will be required is given. This is a
+mistake, because it is less annoying to fail with a sauce with no dish
+depending on it, than, say, when you have decided to have sole _à la
+Villeroi_, the soles being ready, and fail with the sauce.
+
+I hope that no failure will come to any one trying the recipes here
+given, but in some cases, especially in sauces thickened with eggs, a
+second's diverted attention may cause failure without fault of the cook.
+Therefore it is best to make single experiments when there is no danger
+of being disturbed, and when there is nothing else to be attended to.
+The successful result need never be lost, for in the case of sauces they
+can be reheated the next day in a bain-marie, or pan of hot water; the
+same with the soups, and, indeed, most other things, except soufflées
+and omelets.
+
+But, above all things, never try a recipe for the first time the day you
+wish it to appear perfect on your table; try it long before, and if you
+fail, make the same thing over again, reading the directions very
+carefully; some trifling caution or precaution may have escaped you. No
+one ever learns to draw so simple a thing as a circle who is discouraged
+at the first bad curve, and leaves it for easier lines. Keep on at the
+thing you select to do until you succeed, always choosing _and
+perfecting_ the easiest thing in each class first.
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+ENTRÉES.
+
+
+_Fillet of Beef._--This favorite dish with French and Americans may be
+roasted whole, or cut so as to serve individually. To roast it whole, it
+must be trimmed perfectly round, and either larded or not as taste may
+dictate. A fillet weighing four pounds should be roasted three quarters
+of an hour in a sharp oven. It may then be served _à la Châteaubriand_
+by pouring over it half a pint of the sauce of that name, with
+horseradish sauce, or brown mushroom sauce (brown sauce with mushrooms
+added).
+
+To serve individually, fillets are prepared in the following way: Cut a
+fillet into eight slices three quarters of an inch thick; trim the
+slices into perfect circles, all exactly the same size; flatten them;
+put them in a hot pan, and sauté for seven or eight minutes in two
+ounces of butter; dress them round a dish, and pour over them the sauce
+from which the dish will take its name.
+
+_Filets de Boeuf à la Béarnaise._--Serve with half a pint of Béarnaise
+sauce.
+
+_Filets de Boeuf aux Champignons._--Dress as before; leave in the centre
+of the dish room for a mound of stewed mushrooms; pour over the fillets
+half a pint of rich brown sauce. Serve these dishes as soon as cooked:
+the meat is spoiled by waiting.
+
+I have received several letters from readers living where lobster is
+only to be had in cans, asking if there is no substitute for the coral
+in making cardinal sauce. Canned lobster frequently contains a great
+deal of coral, which is as good for coloring and flavoring as the fresh.
+This can only be known, however, before opening, when the cans are of
+glass. The pulp of red beet-root passed through a sieve and added to
+white sauce or mayonnaise gives a beautiful red tint; but the flavor,
+while excellent for a salad or as vegetable sauce, would be unsuitable
+for serving with fish.
+
+_Grenadines of Beef with Mushrooms and Poivrade Sauce._--Take as many
+slices of fillet of beef, cut three quarters of an inch thick, as you
+require. Trim them to a pear shape, three and a half inches long and
+three wide at the broadest part. Lard these with bacon, and put them
+into a sauté pan with a gill of brown sauce and a glass of sherry (half
+the sauce if there are very few grenadines); let them cook gently for
+fifteen minutes. Dissolve a piece of glaze the size of a walnut by
+putting it in a cup which is set in boiling water; when dissolved, take
+up the grenadines, dish them in a circle, and glaze them (a brush is
+properly used for this purpose, but the glaze can be spread with a knife
+dipped in hot water). Fill the centre of the circle with a pyramid of
+small mushrooms mixed with a gill and a half of poivrade sauce.[88-*]
+
+_Fillets of Beef à la Grande-Bretagne._--Cut two pounds of fillet into
+neat slices an inch thick; slit them (with a small French boning-knife
+or small penknife) in such a way that you form a pocket in each the
+mouth or opening of which is smaller than the pocket itself. This can be
+done by laying the fillet flat on a board, laying your hand on the top
+of it, making a slit two inches wide, then with the point of the knife
+enlarging the slit inside, but not the entrance to it. The opening
+should extend half-way through; into this put a force-meat made of
+horseradish sauce[89-*] and macaroni boiled and cut fine. The force-meat
+must be used sparingly, so as not to increase materially the thickness
+of the fillet; fasten the opening of each with a wooden toothpick. Sauté
+these fillets for fifteen minutes; glaze them as directed in last
+recipe; arrange them in a circle, with a pyramid of tiny potato balls in
+the centre. Pour rich brown sauce round.
+
+_Mutton Cutlets à la d'Uxelles._--Cut some cutlets from the neck of
+mutton, leaving two bones to each, trim very carefully, remove the upper
+part of one bone, split the cutlets without separating them at the bone,
+spread some thick d'Uxelles sauce[90-*] inside, fold the cutlets
+together, run a toothpick through them, and broil for four minutes on
+each side over a hot fire. Have a layer of chopped mushrooms stewed in
+butter in the dish, lay the cutlets on it, pour over some d'Uxelles
+sauce, and garnish with truffles, cut in very thin circles.
+
+_Mutton Cutlets à la Milanais._--Take six cutlets from a neck of mutton
+("French chops," many butchers term them), mix equal quantities of
+grated Parmesan cheese and cracker meal. Dip the cutlets into rich thick
+brown sauce,[90-[+]] then into the cracker and Parmesan; shake off loose
+crumbs; dip them now into beaten egg in which a little salt and very
+finely chopped parsley and chives have been mixed, and then dip them a
+second time in the Parmesan and bread crumbs; drop them into a kettle of
+very hot fat; in four minutes they will be done. Do not fry more than
+four at a time, as too many cool the fat. Dish them in a circle with
+spaghetti dressed with Parmesan in the centre.
+
+It seems to me just here that before giving further recipes for fried
+articles I had better make sure that all my readers understand the
+process of frying in deep fat. I have used the word _sauté_ too, and
+although no doubt both these processes are familiar to most readers who
+would be likely to practise "Choice Cookery," for those who are not
+adepts many of the recipes would be impossible to execute. Frying, once
+understood, is so easy a process one wonders that so few should excel in
+it. To those who are not sure of themselves I recommend practice. A
+couple of hours' practice and careful observance of rules will enable a
+bright woman to fry successfully.
+
+For this practice you may prepare several different articles and fry one
+after the other--one or two very soft and creamy croquettes, one or two
+breaded articles, especially such as are dipped in thick sauce before
+being crumbed, etc.
+
+The principle on which articles that are very soft and creamy,
+underneath the surface of egg and crumbs, are fried is this: the creamy
+substances, whether rich sauce like d'Uxelles and Villeroi, or the cream
+used to mix croquettes, must always be made of stock that will jelly
+when cold. The sauce is used warm, and the articles are put to chill on
+ice, so that they are in a jellied condition. Now the fat into which
+they are plunged must be so hot that it sets the coating of egg and
+crumbs, which forms a thin shell, as it were, before the jelly has had
+time to melt; the shell once formed, the interior cooks in the intense
+heat very quickly. If the fat were not hot enough, croquettes would go
+all to pieces, and articles coated with sauce would lose the better
+part of it.
+
+To fry, you require a stewpan or iron kettle; those called Scotch
+kettles are best, as they set into the range readily. A frying-pan is
+only useful for sautéing in little fat. Articles to be fried must be
+immersed in fat, and no frying-pan is deep enough to do this safely. Put
+two to three pounds of clarified dripping or lard into the kettle, and
+let it get very hot. This will be after it ceases to sputter--some time
+after, perhaps; but you must now begin to watch for smoke to rise from
+the _centre_. Have near you some little squares of bread crumb; drop one
+in from time to time; only when it colors _immediately_ is the fat hot
+enough. At this point no time must be lost, and your frying begins.
+
+Of course you will have the articles you intend to fry right at hand.
+You will also need a large dish, in which you lay common butcher's
+wrapping-paper (often called "kitchen paper") and a perforated
+skimmer--some like a frying-basket, and for very small things it is an
+assistance; but for croquettes, cutlets, etc., it is not necessary: they
+can be laid on the skimmer and dropped in the fat.
+
+The easiest and safest way to fry is to use a cooking thermometer
+(pyrometers or frimometers they are sometimes called), and let the fat
+be 380° for croquettes, oysters, and articles that only require two
+minutes' cooking; 360° for cutlets and heavier articles.
+
+The time required for articles to cook in the frying-kettle seems
+astonishingly short. For instance, a breaded chop will be cooked to a
+medium degree in two and a half minutes, well done in three minutes; but
+it must be remembered the heat is intense. Croquettes must never be left
+longer than two minutes, while whitebait (which, however, require
+special instruction to fry without getting them into a cake) need less
+than a minute. Potatoes require longer than most things; but the fat
+need not be cooler at first, as would seem necessary, because they are
+so full of water, even when well dried, that they cool the fat rapidly.
+
+_Sautéing_ (a word that would be expressive of the process in English
+would be a boon to writers on cooking).--The process generally meant by
+"frying" is really sautéing; yet so general has been the misconception
+among all but professed cooks, that one has to take the precaution in
+giving directions for frying to say, "Fry _in deep_ fat." It ought to be
+understood that to fry is to _immerse_ in hot fat. If some term suitable
+for kitchen use could be found, half the difficulty would be over. In
+old English books a very fair translation was used; they told you to
+"toss the article in butter," but though it rendered sauté "jump"
+fairly, it did not express the process. There is neither tossing nor
+jumping about it, unless an occasional shake to the pan be called so;
+and as "flat frying," "dry frying," are awkward, the sooner we boldly
+take sauté into common use, and let it become a kitchen word as familiar
+as fricassee (which surely must have been very unfamiliar once), the
+better.
+
+To sauté--although every Bridget or Gretchen fancies she can do
+it--requires nicety and care to do it well, and is far more difficult
+than "frying in deep fat." The pan requires to be hot, also the fat or
+butter used, which should cover the bottom of the pan; a bright fire is
+required. Things that take long to cook require more fat than those that
+require but a short time. Effort must be made to adjust the proportion,
+as adding cold fat prevents browning. Veal cutlets and many other things
+are far better sautéd than fried. The articles sautéd require to be
+watched that they do not burn; yet they must not be too often turned, or
+they will not brown--except, of course, such things as are chopped,
+which require frequent stirring up.
+
+In speaking of chilling articles coated with sauce to be fried, I
+omitted to give the caution that, in the case of meats, care must be
+taken not to leave them long enough to freeze the meat.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[88-*] See No. IV.
+
+[89-*] See No. V.
+
+[90-*] See No. II.
+
+[90-[+]] See No. IV.
+
+
+
+
+XI.
+
+ENTRÉES OF MUTTON CUTLETS OR CHOPS.
+
+
+_Mutton Cutlets à la Duchesse._--Take as many cutlets (or French chops)
+as required. Stew them in stock, with a small bouquet of herbs, very
+gently until they are perfectly tender. Take them up, skim the stock,
+and strain it; return to a small saucepan, and reduce the liquid to a
+glaze; dip each cutlet in the glaze and lay it aside. Have ready what
+cooks now call a "panada," made of a gill of thick white sauce, two
+yolks of eggs stirred into it and allowed to approach the boiling-point,
+but not to boil (this, of course, must be done in a double boiler), or
+the eggs will curdle; chop a dessertspoonful of parsley very fine;
+parboil and chop also very fine three onions; pound thoroughly in a
+mortar eight mushrooms; stir these all into the thick sauce, with a
+saltspoonful of salt and a quarter one of pepper. Roll each cutlet in
+this force-meat (if found too stiff to adhere properly, moisten with a
+little cream or a little liquor from the mushrooms), lay them on a
+fire-proof dish, and cover with bread crumbs and bits of butter. Bake
+them until they are a golden brown. Serve with brown Soubise sauce.
+
+_Lamb Cutlets en Concombre._--Trim and cut six lamb cutlets three
+quarters of an inch thick, flatten them a little to make them of equal
+size and thickness; flour them, and sauté them in butter five minutes.
+The fire must be sharp, because they must be a nice brown on both sides.
+Arrange them round an entrée dish, with a gill of brown sauce poured
+outside, and a pint of fillets of cucumber in the centre.
+
+_To Prepare Fillets of Cucumber._--Cut firm fresh cucumbers lengthwise
+through the middle, remove seeds and all soft parts, cut into inch
+lengths and into olive shapes all the same size. Put them into a
+stewpan with an ounce of butter, a pinch of pepper, a saltspoonful of
+sugar and one of salt, and let them stew until quite tender, without
+acquiring any color. To do this the stewpan must be closely covered and
+frequently shaken.
+
+_Lamb Cutlets with a Purée of Mushrooms._--Trim and cook and serve the
+cutlets as in the foregoing recipe, only in place of the cucumbers make
+a purée of mushrooms in the following way: stew half a pint of button
+mushrooms and part of their liquor in half a pint of white sauce until
+they are very tender (taking care the sauce does not burn), pound them
+in a mortar, then force them through a vegetable strainer; then add
+enough of the white sauce in which they were stewed to make the purée
+the substance of very thick cream.
+
+_Cold Lamb Cutlets in Mint Jelly._--Roast a piece of what butchers call
+the rack of lamb, which is really the neck and ribs. Let it get cold;
+cut from it six cutlets, which trim just as if they were uncooked; that
+is to say, remove meat and fat from the bone, and scrape it. Mask each
+of the cutlets in mint jelly[101-*] warmed enough to be half fluid.
+Arrange very carefully round an entrée dish when they are perfectly set,
+so that the jelly will not come off. Have a Russian salad in the centre.
+
+_How to Prepare the Salad._--To prepare this you require two or three
+small vegetable cutters of pretty shape; use them to trim carrots, white
+turnips, and cucumbers into small, attractive forms; boil these in
+separate waters till tender; also green peas, sprays of cauliflower, and
+very tiny young string-beans. Throw each vegetable as it is cooked into
+ice-cold water to keep the color. Have some red beet-root boiled
+_before_ it is cut into shapes. Use equal quantities of each vegetable.
+Arrange them with peas in the centre, and the others in circles round,
+studying the effect of color; then dress, but do not mask, them with
+green mayonnaise.
+
+At seasons when materials for Russian salad cannot readily be obtained
+the chops may be served with a centre of cucumber salad, or one made of
+the small white leaves of lettuce.
+
+_Cutlets Chaudfroid à la Russe._--For this cold dish mutton cutlets are
+used. They must be of the finest quality, and from mutton not newly
+killed. Cut as many cutlets as required, trim, and scrape the bone.
+Braise for an hour in a moderate oven till the meat is very tender,
+remove, and press between two dishes until they are cold. Then trim each
+cutlet into perfect shape. Boil a quart of strong stock (which already
+jellies) down to less than half a pint; dip each chop into this glaze
+once or twice, till they look "varnished." You now require a pint of
+stiff aspic jelly; turn it out of the bowl, cut one or two slices a
+quarter of an inch thick from it, to be cut into shapes (or croûtons)
+with a cutter to garnish the cutlets. Chop the rest of the aspic, lay
+it round the dish, and the cutlets against it, with the croûtons of
+aspic to form the outer edge. The centre must be filled with a Russian
+salad, in this case stirred up with very thick mayonnaise, instead of
+being formally arranged. The mayonnaise must be only sufficient to dress
+the vegetables, none to run into the other materials, and beet-root must
+be added last, as it discolors the sauce if stirred up in it.
+
+
+ENTRÉES OF SWEETBREADS.
+
+_Sweetbreads à la Suprême._--Take two plump sweetbreads, lay them an
+hour in strong salt and water, then boil them for ten minutes in fresh
+water; put them between two plates to flatten till cold. Cut off all the
+gristle and loose skin from underneath; put them to stew _very gently_
+in half a pint of good-flavored stock. Take them up, drain well, and
+stew them in half a pint of sauce suprême, with a dozen small mushrooms,
+for ten minutes.
+
+_Sweetbreads with Oysters._--Prepare the sweetbreads as in the foregoing
+recipe, quarter them, and put them in a stewpan with a gill of white
+stock, the strained liquor from two dozen oysters, a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and a suspicion of nutmeg. Put two ounces of
+butter in a stewpan over the fire, stir into it one tablespoonful of
+fine flour; let them bubble together, stirring the while, one minute.
+When the sweetbreads have been simmering twenty minutes, pour the gravy
+from them to the sauce; stir quickly till smooth. If thicker than very
+thick cream, add a little more stock. In five minutes add the oysters.
+Keep _at boiling-point_, but not boiling, till the oysters are firm and
+plump. Do not leave them in the sauce a minute beyond this, or they will
+begin to shrink. Take them and the sweetbreads up, and if the sauce is
+too thin to bear a wineglass of cream, boil it rapidly down till _very
+thick_; then skim, and just before pouring over the sweetbreads stir in
+a wineglass of thick cream. If it goes in earlier it may curdle.
+
+It has been explained before, but I repeat it here, that there must
+never be too much sauce, however good, to any dish, and that the
+consistency is most important: it must be thick enough to mask a spoon,
+yet run from it freely. Nothing can be worse than a dab of white mush
+being served as sauce, unless it be a quantity of thin, milky soup
+floating on every plate. This is where the happy medium must be struck.
+It is perfectly easy to give exact proportions to produce certain
+degrees of thickness, and this has been done in the chapters on sauces;
+but where these sauces are used as a medium in which to cook, for
+instance, sweetbreads, a certain amount of liquid must be added to
+prevent burning. Now it is impossible to say how fast this added liquid
+will diminish if the simmering is as slow as it should be, it may lose
+hardly at all, in which case the articles stewed must be taken out, and
+a few minutes' hard boiling given to evaporate the liquid and bring the
+sauce back to the proper point.
+
+_Sweetbreads in Cases._--Prepare two sweetbreads as directed in the
+foregoing recipes. Put them in a stewpan with a thin slice of fat boiled
+ham, half a carrot, half a turnip, and a small onion, all cut small, and
+laid as a bed under the sweetbreads; put in a gill of broth, a bouquet
+of herbs, and half a saltspoonful of salt, with a pinch of pepper. Let
+them stew, closely covered, one hour, turning them after the first
+half-hour. When done, take them up and drain them. When cold, cover with
+thick d'Uxelles sauce; sprinkle thickly with very fine bread crumbs.
+Make two rough paper cases, butter each liberally, and very carefully
+lay each sweetbread in one, crumbed side uppermost. Put them in a quick
+oven till pale brown. Have ready proper sweetbread cases, slip them
+neatly into them, and serve.
+
+These are excellent cold, in which event they should not be shifted from
+the rough case until ready to serve.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[101-*] For recipe, see No. V.
+
+
+
+
+XII.
+
+ON THE MANNER OF PREPARING CROQUETTES, CUTLETS, KROMESKIES, RISSOLES,
+AND CIGARETTES.
+
+
+Although these ever-popular dishes are all or may all be prepared from
+one mixture, there is a difference in the manner of using it which I
+will here explain.
+
+_Croquettes_ are made from a soft creamy mixture chilled on ice till
+firm enough to mould, then simply dipped into egg and crumbs and fried
+in very hot fat.
+
+_Cutlets_ are the same (of course fancy cutlets are meant, not the
+French chops, so called), only they are shaped to imitate a real cutlet,
+with a little bone inserted; or, in the case of lobster cutlets, a small
+claw is used to simulate the chop bone. Many only stick a sprig of
+parsley where the bone should be, to keep up the fiction.
+
+_Kromeskies_ are rolls of the same mixture enveloped in very thin
+slices (hardly thicker than paper) of fat larding pork; a small
+toothpick holds the pork in place. The rolls are then egged, crumbed,
+and fried.
+
+_Rissoles_ are the same thing, only rather easier to prepare, being
+rolled in very thin pastry instead of pork.
+
+_Cigarettes_, the newest variation of the favorite entrée, and most
+dainty of them all in appearance, are thin rolls of croquette mixture
+(or, better still, quenelle meat) not thicker than a small cigar. These
+are rolled in pastry, thoroughly deadened, pinched very securely, and
+fried a very pale brown.
+
+As the manner of making the mixture is about the same for all kinds of
+meats, fish, or game, varying only in flavor--a little wine, a little
+onion, or sweet herbs taking the place of the mushrooms in some cases--I
+will give exact directions for making sweetbread cutlets; chicken, game,
+or fish may be substituted for the sweetbreads, naming them accordingly.
+The ham may always be omitted where the flavor is objected to. For
+those who like it, it adds very much to sweetbreads, but would be out of
+place with game, which should depend on its own individual flavor.
+
+_Cutlets of Sweetbreads._--Soak a pair of sweetbreads in salt and water
+for an hour--longer if there is much blood about them; then cook them
+half an hour in stock. Drain them and let them get cold. Trim off all
+superfluous fat and gristle; chop them with one ounce of lean boiled ham
+to each pair of large sweetbreads, and half a can of mushrooms, a small
+teaspoonful of salt, the sixth of one of pepper. Put an ounce of flour
+in a small thick saucepan with an ounce of butter; stir them together
+over the fire until they bubble; then add a half-pint of liquid
+consisting of a gill of stiff jellied stock and a gill of thick cream;
+stir till they boil and form a smooth sauce; mix the sweetbread mixture
+with the sauce.
+
+The mixture should be a soft, creamy mass, not in any way so stiff as
+sausage-meat, or so as to remain in a heap without spreading; when
+poured on a plate, it should be of a consistency that will _slowly_
+settle, yet there must not be any liquid whatever. On this question of
+consistency depends the quality of the croquettes, cutlets, etc., made
+from it. If too stiff, they will be dry and only a superior sort of hash
+ball. What you have to aim at is a croquette or cutlet that will ooze
+out of the thin shell of egg and crumb when pressed with a fork. Success
+in attaining this can always be secured by taking care to moisten the
+minced meat with a sauce made of _very stiff jelly_ in the proportion of
+half a pint of liquid (the melted jelly and cream) and one ounce each of
+flour and butter. This will mix a pint of sweetbread and mushrooms, or
+rather less of dry meat, such as the breast of chicken, veal, etc.
+
+I dwell on this point because this class of entrées is always popular,
+and if the consistency is once well understood, success is certain to
+follow.
+
+When the mixture is poured into shallow dishes or plates, a piece of
+buttered paper should be laid over them, and then they should be placed
+on ice until quite firm. When ready, cut small pieces of the mixture,
+make them into shapes as nearly resembling a French chop as you can,
+using a very little cracker meal should they stick to your hands. Have
+before you a large dish of cracker meal and the yolks of two eggs beaten
+with two small tablespoonfuls of water, cover each cutlet thoroughly
+with egg, then with meal, gently patting them to make the meal adhere;
+insert anything you please to represent the bone (turkey ribs may be
+boiled white and kept for this purpose). Cutlets require to be dropped
+into very hot fat, and taken up within two minutes. Consult directions
+for frying in former chapter.
+
+Sweetbread croquettes are simply made into cork or pear shapes, never
+large, instead of cutlets. When the white meat of chicken replaces half
+the sweetbread, they are called Cutlets, or Croquettes, à la Reine.
+
+Make no attempt to mould croquettes or cutlets until the mixture is firm
+enough to cut; then handle very quickly, make into proper forms, finish
+them either as cutlets or what you wish, and let them remain in a cold
+place for an hour or two before cooking; this last direction may not be
+always possible, and to an expert is not necessary, but when time can be
+given the amateur should always plan to do it.
+
+But though in experienced hands it is possible (though not so easy) to
+make croquettes and fry them as soon as breaded, do not be led to
+believe that you can dispense with putting the mixture on the ice the
+first time. I remember a young lady who was very proud of her croquettes
+telling me she never found it necessary to chill the mixture; she could
+secure perfect shape without. I asked to see the process, and decided in
+my own mind that she must go widely from the directions, and have her
+material as stiff as hash; but I found she solved the difficulty in a
+different way: she simply worked in quantities of cracker meal, using it
+like flour. Of course the croquettes were spoiled, although it was true
+they kept their shape, and I do not think the young lady realized at all
+that she was changing and impoverishing the preparation altogether.
+
+_Braised Sweetbreads._--Take a pair of sweetbreads, lay in salt and
+water for an hour, then blanch. Press slightly between two dishes; when
+cold, remove all skin, fat, and gristle; cut up very fine a small
+carrot, a turnip, and an onion; put them in a stewpan with the
+sweetbreads, pour over them a pint of stock, lay a piece of buttered
+paper over them, and braise carefully for half an hour. Take them out of
+the stewpan, put them in a small meat-pan, boil the liquor rapidly a
+couple of minutes, then baste the sweetbreads with it several times; put
+them in a quick oven to brown; serve on slices of fried bread, pour half
+a pint of Spanish sauce round, and garnish with mushrooms.
+
+_Tartlettes of Chicken._--Cut six ounces of the breast of a cooked
+chicken into very small pieces, chop up one truffle, twelve mushrooms,
+and two ounces of lean boiled ham; stir them into a gill of white sauce.
+Butter thickly nine dariole moulds, line them neatly with quenelle
+meat,[114-*] of which you will require half a pound, fill the centre
+carefully with the mixed chicken, cover the top carefully with quenelle
+meat, and steam for twenty minutes; dish on a circle of spinach, pour
+béchamel sauce over and round, fill the centre of the dish with peas or
+mixed vegetables.
+
+_Chicken à la Hollandaise._--Take out the breast-bone of a large _young_
+fowl, and fill the space with the following force-meat: half a pint of
+fine bread-crumbs, an ounce and a half of butter, a small boiled onion
+chopped, and a dozen oysters cut into small pieces; a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper; bind together with an egg, sew up the fowl,
+and truss for roasting. Make a nice batter, as for fine fritters, and
+when the fowl has been in the oven half an hour, pour part of the batter
+over it; when dry and beginning to brown, pour more, until it is thickly
+coated and a nice brown; baste often; cut up the chicken, and serve with
+Allemande sauce and lemon.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[114-*] See directions in No. IV.
+
+
+
+
+XIII.
+
+PATTIES.
+
+
+The directions for making one kind will serve for patties generally. In
+cities the cases are very easily bought, but where they have to be made
+at home, only one who is already an expert in making puff-paste should
+attempt them.
+
+Patties when served as an entrée should be quite small, or half of them
+will certainly be left on the plates.
+
+Roll puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick for each patty, cut three
+circles from it, moisten the surface of two very slightly with water,
+place one on the other, then with a sharp penknife cut a circle nearly
+through the third round, leaving a margin of one third of an inch; lay
+this round carefully on the other two; brush the top with white of egg
+(be sure not to touch the sides), and bake in a very quick oven. Patties
+must be watched, and turned if they show signs of rising unevenly. When
+they are a fine yellow-brown take them out, and leave five minutes for
+them to cool slightly, then with a penknife or a boning-knife carefully
+remove the top formed by the smaller circle you marked, and which (if
+the paste was very light and the oven in good condition) will probably
+have risen out of the centre. Be careful in handling these covers, for
+while warm they are very brittle. With a coffee-spoon remove the
+half-cooked dough from the centre of the patty, taking care, however, to
+leave sufficient thickness of inner crust to prevent the sauce from
+oozing through.
+
+The filling for patties can be made before it is needed; but when that
+is done, it must be made quite hot before it is put into the cases, as,
+if it were put in cold, the pastry would burn before the inside became
+warm.
+
+_Dresden Patty Cases._--These make a very pretty kind of patty when
+puff-paste is not to be had, and even when it is are a desirable
+variety. They are made from fine light baker's bread. Cut slices an inch
+and a half thick, then with a biscuit cutter about two inches in
+diameter cut circles from these slices, and with another cutter, a size
+smaller, press half-way through each. You will now have pieces of bread
+the size and shape of patties. Beat four eggs; mix with a pint of milk
+and a saltspoonful of salt; pour this into a shallow pan, and stand the
+bread patties in it. The amount of milk and eggs must of course depend
+on the number of patties; the proportion named is enough for six small
+ones. The patties must remain steeping until they are thoroughly soaked;
+they must be carefully turned upside down when the lower part is
+sufficiently steeped. The time required will depend on the quality of
+the bread, but one hour will generally suffice. The bread must be
+thoroughly penetrated by the custard, be almost as moist as mush, yet
+be in no danger (with careful handling) of breaking. When sufficiently
+steeped, take each one on a cake turner and lay it on a drainer. (They
+may be prepared some hours before they are needed for cooking.) When
+quite drained, baste each one carefully with beaten egg till every part
+is coated, then smother it in cracker meal. Gently pat it to make it
+adhere, then slip the patty on to a dish till you are ready to fry. Do
+not attempt to move the patties with the hand or a spoon, but with a
+flat skimmer or cake turner.
+
+When prepared as directed, make three pounds of lard _very hot_ in a
+deep frying-kettle,[119-*] place three of the patties on a fine wire
+frying-basket, and fry brown. The fat should be excessively hot, as the
+patties, being full of cold custard, will not burn, and will rapidly
+cool it. They should be a delicate brown in six or seven minutes. Let
+the fat come back to the original intense heat before putting in the
+other patties. When they are fried, remove the centre you marked with
+the smaller cutter with a sharp thin knife and small teaspoon, leaving
+the sides about half an inch thick. They are now ready to fill. If the
+patties are just right, the inside you remove should be of a
+custard-like texture, _not_ like sopped bread: indeed, in eating them,
+the bread should not be easily detected. These patties are very
+delicious filled with any of the usual fillings, or, for dessert, with
+stiff preserve. They have no covers, consequently the filling should be
+piled high without allowing the sauce to run over, and garnished with
+parsley or water-cress.
+
+_Sweetbread Patties._--Soak two very white sweetbreads in salt and water
+one hour; parboil for twenty minutes; then let them cool; remove the
+skin, fat, and gristle; cut them into half-inch dice, and lay them aside
+while you prepare the following sauce: Put a gill of strong white stock
+into a small saucepan with a gill of mushroom liquor (and a dozen small
+mushrooms cut in four if approved) to boil. In another saucepan cook an
+ounce of flour and one of butter together, stirring till they bubble;
+pour the two gills of stock quickly to it, and stir till smooth. Season
+with half a teaspoonful of salt and very little pepper; lay in the
+sweetbreads, and let them stew twenty minutes. Strain them off from the
+sauce, which boil down (stirring constantly to prevent burning) till
+very thick; then add a gill of thick fresh cream. The sauce should now
+be thick enough to mask the spoon _very heavily_; pour it over the
+sweetbreads, and stir together. This is now ready for filling the
+patties. If mushrooms are not liked they may be omitted, the liquor
+replaced by a gill of stock and a teaspoonful of white wine.
+
+_Oyster Patties._--Take a dozen and a half Blue Points, scald them in
+their own liquor, but do not leave them a moment after they reach the
+boiling-point; strain the liquor from them; cut each oyster in four. Put
+a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter into a small saucepan over
+the fire, stir them together until they bubble; then pour to them half a
+pint of the strained liquor of the oysters, or part liquor and part
+stock. Stir continually, and let the sauce boil very thick; then lay in
+the oysters, and simmer half a minute. The amount of seasoning required
+will depend on the saltness of the oysters, but a saltspoonful of salt
+will probably not be too much, a little pepper, and a teaspoonful of
+essence of anchovies--just enough to make the sauce a delicate
+salmon-color. For the last thing, stir in one small teaspoonful of lemon
+juice. The consistency of the sauce for all patties should be that of
+very thick double cream. When it is not thick enough, it can always be
+reduced by boiling down, taking care not to boil the meat or oysters,
+etc., in it.
+
+_Chicken Patties._--Take the breast of a boiled chicken, cut it into
+dice; use half a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled to make the
+sauce. Put this broth in a small saucepan with a teaspoonful of lean
+boiled ham chopped a little (take care there is not a particle of the
+outside of the ham, or it may impart a smoky flavor); let the ham simmer
+in the broth while you melt together a tablespoonful of flour and one of
+butter; when they bubble, and the broth has been boiled down to about
+one half, _strain_ the latter into a half-pint measure, fill up with
+cream, and stir this quickly to the flour and butter. When the sauce is
+thick and smooth, put in the chicken; keep the mixture at boiling-point
+five minutes, then set the saucepan in another of boiling water, and
+stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs; only just let them thicken; then
+remove from the fire, and use for filling the patty cases. A teaspoonful
+of sherry is often added to the sauce. If this filling is not used while
+hot, it must be reheated in a double boiler and watched, or the eggs
+will curdle; or the filling may be prepared and the eggs added after it
+is reheated.
+
+_Bouchées_ of any kind are simply patties made very small indeed--for
+this reason the filling is always _chopped_ instead of being cut into
+dice.
+
+The essence of anchovy mentioned is a most useful sauce for fish, and
+can be bought at any large grocery.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[119-*] See full directions for frying in No. X.
+
+
+
+
+XIV.
+
+ENTRÉES.
+
+
+In an earlier chapter I gave directions for quenelles as an adjunct to
+soups and for garnishing. Used in this way, they are only a revival of
+an old French fashion, coarsely imitated in the benighted days of
+Anglo-Saxon cookery by the English "force-meat balls." Lately, however,
+not only are quenelles a great feature in high-class cookery as
+additions to made dishes, but they are a most fashionable and delicious
+entrée, and replace with great advantage the too-frequent croquette.
+
+To prepare quenelle meat for entrées.
+
+_Mode No. 1._--To make quenelle meat, a mortar is indispensable, as it
+must be pounded to a pulp that will go through a sieve, and I have known
+a persevering woman grate the breast of chicken on a large grater, but
+this is very slow work. Take the white meat from a large, young,
+uncooked chicken, and remove all skin, fat, and sinew. Melt together
+over the fire a scant tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; when
+they are thick and smooth, stir in a gill of boiling water quickly. This
+should now be a thick paste; put it away to cool. Take half as much
+butter as you have of chicken, and half the quantity of paste
+(technically called panada) that you have of butter. Put the paste into
+a mortar; pound it well; add the butter; pound again till smooth; add
+the chicken, cut up very small, and pound until the whole forms a smooth
+pulp. Add one whole egg and the yolks of three, the third of a
+saltspoonful of white pepper (salt must depend on whether the butter
+seasons sufficiently). Work all well together, stir in half a gill of
+thick cream, and pass the whole through a wire sieve. Put the whole on
+ice to get firm. The quenelles should be about the size of a small egg
+flattened; shape with two tablespoons dipped in flour. Have ready a
+frying-pan with boiling water in which is a saltspoonful of salt, lay
+each quenelle carefully in, and poach for ten minutes. The water must
+boil very gently. Drain on a sieve; serve with mushroom or tomato sauce.
+Have a little dried parsley and grated tongue or ham, and scatter
+alternately on each quenelle.
+
+_Mode No. 2._--One pound of lean veal cutlet; pound it thoroughly in a
+mortar; then rub it through a sieve, or it may be forced (_after_ it is
+pounded) through a vegetable strainer. Steep a pound of bread crumb in
+tepid water; wring it in a cloth to get rid of the moisture; put it in a
+stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter and a pinch of salt. Stir it over
+the fire until it ceases to stick to the pan and forms a smooth paste.
+Place it between two plates to cool. This is called bread panada. Put
+into a mortar twelve ounces of the prepared veal, six ounces of fresh
+butter, and eight ounces of the panada. Pound all well together; mix in
+gradually one whole egg, two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and the
+yolks of four more eggs, a scant teaspoonful of salt, and a
+quarter-saltspoonful of pepper. When this is all pounded into a smooth,
+compact mass, put it into a bowl and place it on ice until required for
+use. Mould and poach as described in last recipe.
+
+Great care is required in cooking quenelles, as if they are overdone
+they become tough; ten minutes is enough for those the size of a small
+egg. Before moulding the whole, poach a small one, break it open, and
+ascertain if it is smooth, light, yet firm. They should melt in the
+mouth. If they are at all tough, add a little more cream to the mixture,
+unless the toughness comes from over-boiling, which you must guard
+against. Very elaborate quenelles are made with a core of dark meat,
+made by chopping up ham, tongue, or truffles very fine, and inserting
+it in the centre while forming the quenelles. Always serve quenelles
+with tomato, mushroom, or rich Spanish sauce. Dish in a circle, and fill
+the centre with spinach, green peas, or a macédoine of mixed vegetables.
+
+The mode of preparing all quenelles is by one of the two methods just
+given, but they may be made of any kind of game, or the backs of hares
+or rabbits. Quenelles of salmon, lobster, or other fish must of course
+be served with appropriate fish sauce.
+
+_Timbale of Chicken à la Champenois._--Chop a small slice of lean boiled
+ham, weighing about two ounces, put into a saucepan with four chopped
+mushrooms, four truffles, and an ounce of butter; stir in a moderate
+dessertspoonful of corn-starch and half a pint of stock and a gill of
+sherry; let this slowly simmer until reduced to one half. Skim off the
+fat, then stir in the finely chopped breast of a large chicken or of two
+small ones, six small pickled gherkins, a sprig of parsley, and six
+anchovies which have been soaked in milk. Make all hot over a slow fire,
+but do not let them boil. Line a mould with light puff-paste, pour the
+mixture into it, and bake one hour; turn out and serve very hot. Garnish
+with fried parsley.
+
+_Scallops of Chicken à la Périgord._--This dish may conveniently be made
+when the white meat of chicken is required for other purposes.
+
+Bone the legs of two large chickens; take half a pound of veal, a
+quarter of a pound of fat salt pork; pound both in a mortar, then pass
+through a sieve; add to this two tablespoonfuls of minced tongue, six
+truffles, and half a dozen button mushrooms, the yolks of two eggs, a
+saltspoonful of salt, and a _very little_ cayenne. Mix well. Stuff the
+legs of the fowls with this. Sewing them up neatly, wrap each up in
+buttered paper; put them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a
+carrot, turnip, and small onion cut up; add three quarters of a pint of
+brown stock. Put the stewpan in the oven, baste well, and cook gently
+one hour. When cooked, have ready a mound of spinach. Take a _very
+sharp_ knife, cut the legs in slices so as to make circles like slices
+of sausage; strain off the gravy. Cook together a dessertspoonful of
+butter and flour; when they bubble, pour the strained gravy to it, with
+a gill of sherry and a little salt and pepper; stir till smooth; boil
+till as thick as cream. Dress the scallops of chicken in a circle round
+the spinach, pour the sauce round all, and insert bits of truffle and of
+tongue between the scallops.
+
+_Chicken Soufflé._--Pound three ounces of the white meat of cooked
+chicken as fine as possible; mix with it half a pint of cream and three
+well beaten eggs, a few button mushrooms finely chopped, a saltspoonful
+of salt, a sixth of one of pepper, a dust of cayenne, and a speck of
+powdered mace. Pour the mixture in a well-buttered mould, tie a cloth
+over it, and steam it half an hour. It must stand quite upright in the
+steamer. Turn out on a hot dish, and pour any rich brown sauce preferred
+around it. This soufflé may be made of sweetbreads, or half and half. If
+individual soufflés are preferred, butter as many dariole moulds as the
+mixture will fill; lay at the bottom of each something by way of
+garnish--a little star or disk of tongue or ham for some, of truffle for
+others, of green gherkin for others--so that when turned out the top of
+the soufflés will show spots of color. Half fill the moulds, and steam
+twenty minutes.
+
+Soufflés of all kinds depend for excellence on being served the moment
+they are ready, and on the steam being kept up all the time they are
+cooking. When baked the oven must be very steady.
+
+_Fritot of Chicken._--Take a cold chicken, cut it into small neat
+joints, season rather highly with salt and pepper, strew over them a
+small grated onion (or one very finely chopped), and a dessertspoonful
+of chopped parsley. Cover them with oil, and then squeeze over them the
+juice of a lemon. Turn the pieces now and then, and let them remain
+until they have absorbed the flavor. Meanwhile make a batter of four
+tablespoonfuls of flour and about eight of milk, or as much as will make
+a thick smooth batter; stir into it a wineglass of brandy and an egg,
+the whole beaten to a high froth. Leave this batter in a warm place an
+hour before using, dip the pieces of chicken into it, and fry in very
+hot, deep fat. Serve piled high on a dish garnished with fried parsley.
+
+
+
+
+XV.
+
+ENTRÉES.--_Continued._
+
+
+_Cigarettes à la Reine._--These are the newest development of the
+rissole and croquette. They require strict attention to details to
+secure perfect form. Roll puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick; prick
+it all over--this is to deaden it; roll it now till it is no thicker
+than cartridge-paper. Cut it with a sharp knife dipped in flour into
+strips about two inches and a half wide and about the length of a cigar;
+lay on each strip a roll of chicken quenelle meat that is very firm, and
+the roll not thicker than a lady's slender forefinger; be careful that
+the meat reaches nearly the whole length of the paste, yet leaves a
+margin for closing, as the least oozing will spoil the appearance.
+Moisten the edges of the paste all round with white of egg; fold the
+paste over half an inch; be very careful to see that it adheres
+thoroughly; then pinch the ends. Roll them gently with a cool hand on
+the floured board to round them without pressure, taper off the ends
+cigar fashion. If they are softening, lay them on a floured plate on ice
+to get firm; then roll them in egg and very finely sifted cracker meal.
+You may roll or improve the shape, if there is any irregularity, while
+crumbing them. Remember what you aim to imitate is a cigar. The great
+danger for the first time is getting them too large; they must therefore
+be very slender. Fry in deep fat just as rissoles; serve on a napkin,
+log-house fashion. These dainties, as will have been seen, have a large
+amount of butter, and soften in a warm room; they must therefore be made
+in a cold room, and if set on ice some hours before cooking will be much
+easier to fry without bending or twisting.
+
+_Cigarettes à la Chasseur_ are, as the name indicates, made of game, in
+exactly the same way as the last recipe.
+
+_Lobster Quenelles._--Prepare with bread panada as directed for quenelle
+meat. Poach and drain them. Then dish in a circle with thick Hollandaise
+sauce in the centre and round them.
+
+_Chicken, Turtle Fashion._--This requires a pullet or young hen about
+six months old. Bone the bird; stuff with a force-meat made of four
+parts minced veal, two parts chopped hard eggs, a half part lean boiled
+ham, two parts mushrooms, and two parts _pâté de foie gras_. First make
+the veal and ham hot in a little butter, then add the mushrooms and
+_foie gras_; moisten with stock or mushroom liquor, and _gently simmer_
+five minutes. Stir in two beaten yolks of eggs and a teaspoonful of
+lemon juice. Season with a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of white
+pepper, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg, grated. Stuff the fowl with this
+mixture; sew it up with trussing-needle and string; turn the skin of the
+neck half over the head, and cut off part of the comb, which gives the
+appearance of the turtle's head. Scald and skin four chickens' feet;
+cut off the claws, and insert two where the wings ought to be and two in
+the thighs, so as to look like turtles' feet. Put in a stewpan a
+tablespoonful of chopped boiled ham, an onion, and a small carrot cut
+up, with a tablespoonful of butter; let them brown very slightly, add
+half a pint of stock, skim it, lay the fowl in this stock, and stew
+gently for an hour and a half to two hours, or even longer, according to
+size. When quite tender take up the fowl, cut and remove the string with
+which it is sewn, lay it on its back on a dish, garnish the breast with
+sliced truffles cut in fancy shapes, place a crawfish tail to represent
+the turtle's tail. When eaten hot serve velouté sauce. This is an
+excellent dish cold garnished with aspic.
+
+_Baked Ravioli._--Four ounces of veal, six ounces of butter, three
+ounces of lean sausage-meat, a teaspoonful of mixed sweet herbs, a
+little salt and pepper. Pound all in a mortar; when smooth, pound
+separately a gill of spinach that has been boiled till just tender
+without losing color, and a quarter of a pound of cream cheese or rich
+cottage cheese, which must be squeezed in a cloth to remove all the
+milk. When smooth, pound all together, and stir in the yolks of two
+eggs. Make some pastry with half a pound of butter, three quarters of a
+pound of flour, and the yolks of two eggs; mix stiff, and roll till
+about as thick as a fifty-cent piece. Cut the paste in two parts. Take a
+medium-sized biscuit-cutter, mark half as many circles on one half the
+paste as you wish ravioli. Lay in the centre of each circle a mound of
+the force-meat--perhaps a large teaspoonful, only be careful to leave a
+quarter-inch margin all round. Moisten this margin with a camel's-hair
+brush dipped in white of egg; lay the second half of the pastry over
+these mounds; press the cutter on each to trim them, and you have a
+number of little round patties; press the edges together very well by
+curving the little finger round them. Have some rich stock boiling in a
+stewpan; poach the ravioli five minutes. Take them up, drain them well,
+arrange them in a fire-proof gratin dish, sprinkle them over with grated
+Parmesan cheese, pour in a very little stock, and bake brown in the
+oven.
+
+_Veal Cutlets à la Primrose._--Take a pound of veal cutlet; cut it up
+into small cutlets the size of a dollar, and perfectly round. Put two
+ounces of butter (which has been first melted to let the curd separate)
+into a saucepan, with three onions, two ounces of bacon cut into small
+dice, a bouquet of herbs (including bay-leaf). Fry, stirring frequently,
+for a quarter of an hour, then add a tablespoonful of corn-starch, a
+dessertspoonful of Tarragon vinegar, and a pint of strong stock. Let all
+simmer very gently for about one hour. Take up the cutlets, strain the
+gravy and pour it over them, then sprinkle with a tablespoonful of
+grated tongue, and the same quantity of parsley dried and crumbled
+small. Chicken may also be cooked in this way.
+
+_Quails à la Lucullus._--This, as its name implies, is a most expensive
+and luxurious way of serving these dainty birds, yet by management the
+livers of chickens may be saved a day or two by scalding them, and the
+opportunity taken when several are required for general use during a
+week. Bone very carefully six or eight quails. Cut up three ounces of
+unsmoked bacon, put it in a sauté pan, let it cook five minutes, then
+add the livers, a shallot sliced, a small bouquet, twelve white
+peppercorns, six cloves, a saltspoonful of salt. Let all cook carefully
+ten minutes: nothing must burn or get very brown. When cooked, pound
+well in a mortar, pass through a sieve, then add three truffles chopped;
+stuff each quail into shape, butter some paper cases known as "quail
+cases," put a quail into each case, a few drops of olive oil on each
+breast. Then put them in a quick oven for ten minutes or a quarter of an
+hour. For the gravy, put the bones of the quails in a stewpan, add a
+tablespoonful of glaze and a gill of brown sauce, with one
+tablespoonful of water. Simmer till the gravy is well flavored from the
+bones, then strain, and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped truffles and
+half a gill of sherry. Put one tablespoonful of this sauce over each
+quail before sending it to the table, after very carefully draining all
+grease from the quails. These are served in the papers, but rough paper
+cases may be made to bake them in, and the regular crimped ones set in
+the oven to get hot just before dishing up. Slip the quails into them
+after draining.
+
+_Quails à la Jubilee._--Bone as many birds as required. Lard them with
+pork and thin strips of truffles. Stuff them in shape with equal parts
+of sweetbreads and oysters, sew them up; roll them in buttered paper,
+and cook in the oven in enough Chablis to cover them. Pound some boiled
+potatoes and water-cresses together until thoroughly blended; put a
+tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan with one of milk; put in the
+potato, stir round till quite hot; use this to make a border on which
+to serve the quails. When they have cooked fifteen to twenty minutes,
+take them up, glaze them (melt glaze in a cup standing in hot water, and
+brush them over). Lay them on the potato border, and pour into the
+centre some Spanish sauce with mushrooms in which has been boiled a
+slice of lemon.
+
+
+
+
+XVI.
+
+ENTRÉES.--_Continued._
+
+
+_Pigeon Cutlets._--Take half a dozen young pigeons, split them down the
+back, and bone them, all but the leg, cutting off the wings at the
+second joint. Cut each bird in two down the breast; trim off all ragged
+edges, so that each half-bird has as much as possible the appearance of
+a cutlet, the leg serving for the bone. Sauté these cutlets, having
+seasoned them with pepper and salt, for three minutes in hot butter,
+then put them in the oven for five minutes. When done, press between two
+plates till cold. Then mask each cutlet with a thick purée of tomatoes
+and mushrooms in which aspic jelly has been mixed, equal parts of each.
+Let them be put on ice to stiffen the masking. Roll in fine cracker
+meal, then dip into well-beaten egg, again into the meal, and then
+place them in a sauté pan with very hot clarified butter, and cook them
+a fine golden brown. Dish up on a border of mashed potatoes browned with
+grated Parmesan; serve mushrooms in the centre and Spanish sauce all
+round.
+
+_Pigeons à la Tartare._--The pigeons should be trussed for broiling;
+flatten well with a rolling-pin without breaking the skin, season them
+with pepper and salt, dip into clarified butter and cover with very fine
+crumbs or cracker meal. Broil them carefully, turning often. Make a
+sauce of a scant tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, a shallot, two
+spoonfuls of pickled gherkins, and a boned anchovy. Mince all finely and
+separately. Squeeze over them the juice of a lemon; add half a
+tablespoonful of water and six of oil, and a little pepper. Mix all very
+well, and just before serving rub in a teaspoonful of dry mustard. Put
+the sauce into the dish, lay the pigeons over, and serve.
+
+_Compote of Pigeons._--For any dish of pigeons except roast or broiled,
+wild birds may be used in place of tame. Their flavor is far finer, and
+if not perfectly young, which is the main objection to the use of wild
+birds, the preparation remedies the defect. Cut four ounces of lean
+unsmoked bacon into pieces, and fry five minutes. Split the pigeons in
+half, skewer each half as neatly as possible with tiny skewers, so that
+they will not sprawl when dished; flour and season them lightly, and fry
+a nice brown on both sides; add one small carrot, one small turnip, two
+sticks of celery, one shallot, six mushrooms--all cut small; add a
+_bouquet garni_ and three gills of rich stock; let them all simmer very
+slowly in a stewpan for one hour, or longer if the birds are not young.
+Simmer together a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter; pepper and
+salt (quantities depend on whether the stock be seasoned); stir
+constantly, and when they begin to change color pour a gill of brown
+stock to it, stirring well; remove from the fire. Take up the pigeons,
+strain the gravy, then stir in the brown thickening you have made; boil
+up, skim off all fat, then return the birds; let them get thoroughly
+hot, but not boil. Serve on a border of mashed potatoes, pour the gravy
+round and over them, and fill the centre with peas or spinach.
+
+_Soufflé of Partridges._--Clean and cook two partridges; remove the
+breasts and best of the other flesh without skin or sinew. Take two
+ounces of rice cooked till very tender, pound them together in a mortar
+with one ounce of butter and a gill and a half of glaze melted, a
+teaspoonful of salt, and a sixth of pepper. Pound until the whole can be
+forced through a strainer, then add the beaten yolks of four eggs, and
+last of all the whites of two beaten till they will not slip from the
+dish; stir them very lightly into the mixture. Pour it into a silver
+soufflé case, or into a number of the small china cases. Bake till it
+rises, and then serve immediately with a tureen of rich brown sauce.
+This soufflé can be made of any kind of cold bird or fish. The four eggs
+are given for _medium_-sized partridges.
+
+_Salmis of Snipe._--Clean and roast lightly six snipe, saving the trail.
+When done let them get cold, then cut them up and remove the skin, and
+lay them in a buttered stewpan; pound the trimmings and bones in a
+mortar, and put them into a stewpan with two shallots, a clove, a
+bouquet of herbs, and half a pint of claret; let this simmer until
+reduced to one half. Then add three quarters of a pint of Spanish sauce.
+Let these _very gently simmer_ for half an hour, skimming frequently;
+strain through a fine sieve, and return to the stewpan. If it is not
+thick enough to coat the spoon, reduce a little more. Pour this sauce
+over the snipe in the sauté pan, and let it get hot without boiling;
+pile the pieces in a pyramid; meanwhile chop the trail, mix with half
+the quantity of _pâté de foie gras_ and a little salt and pepper;
+spread this on croûtons, bake, and use them to garnish the snipe.
+
+_Fillets of Teal with Anchovies._--Remove the breasts from a pair of
+teal after they have been three parts roasted. Take care to preserve
+each half breast in good shape. Lay these fillets seasoned in a china
+fire-proof dish which has been well buttered and strewed with grated
+Parmesan; split two anchovies, remove the bone. Wash and dry the four
+halves, lay one on each fillet of teal, moisten with a gill of fish
+stock, sprinkle with bread crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, lay small
+pieces of butter over, and bake in the oven fifteen minutes. The last
+thing before serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over all.
+
+Rabbits are so little cared for in this country that it may seem useless
+to give recipes for using them. There are probably two reasons for the
+low estimate in which rabbit is held here. One, that as they are offered
+in market they are skinny, miserable animals. Yet there are parts of
+the country where they attain a good size, and a fine plump rabbit may
+compare favorably with fowl for many purposes. Indeed, English epicures
+use it in preference for mulligatawny. The second reason, and probably
+the one that is the real reason, for the difference in taste is because,
+being so lightly esteemed, no care is ever given to the preparation of
+them.
+
+On the chance that some reader may feel inclined to test the
+possibilities of the native rabbit, and its claims to a place in choice
+cookery, I give two or three recipes, each admirable in its way. Rabbits
+should be used quite fresh, and cleaned and wiped dry as soon after they
+are killed as possible.
+
+_Grenadines of Rabbit à la Soubise._--Take the whole backs of two
+rabbits from the shoulders to the thighs, both of which you reject; cut
+away the ribs and the thin part that forms the stomach, leaving only the
+backbone with solid flesh each side; divide this into sections, about
+two joints to each. Lard them, and then braise for one hour. Stand them
+in a circle, and pour over and round them a pint of brown Soubise sauce.
+
+_Fillets of Rabbit with Cucumber._--Half roast a rabbit, then remove the
+solid flesh from each side the backbone in long fillets. Cut two
+cucumbers and one Bermuda onion in thin slices, salt them, and let them
+drain. Lard the fillets of rabbit, season them, and lay them in a
+stewpan, with a pint of white sauce slightly thinned with white stock,
+the cucumber, and the onion. Let them simmer for half an hour. Lay the
+fillets in a circle, and put the cucumber and onion in the centre, the
+sauce, which should be thick enough to mask them, over the fillets.
+Fried sippets garnish this dish.
+
+_A Civet._--For this dish the dark-fleshed rabbit, or hare, as it is
+often called, is best. Cut it into meat joints; cut half a pound of
+unsmoked bacon into slices, and fry in a saucepan; then lay in the hare,
+and sauté for fifteen minutes. Pour off the fat. Add half a pint of
+port-wine, a bouquet garni, and a dozen mushrooms, and a little pepper
+and salt; let this simmer gently one hour; then add a pint of brown
+sauce and twenty button onions which have been blanched. Simmer for
+another half-hour. Remove the bouquet, add a gill of stewed and strained
+tomato, half a gill of glaze, and a tablespoonful of Chutney. Serve in a
+pyramid, pour the gravy, after it is well skimmed, over the whole, and
+garnish with fried croûtons.
+
+_Timbales d'Épinard._--Make some quenelle meat of chicken or veal
+according to directions already given, and mix with purée of spinach,
+prepared as follows, until it is a nice green; pick and wash some
+spinach, put it into salted boiling water, and boil fast for fifteen
+minutes. Drain and press it, then beat it through a wire sieve; return
+to the saucepan with two ounces of butter; pepper and salt; stir till
+well mixed. Stir a gill of cream to the quenelle meat, then use enough
+of the spinach to give it a fine light-green color. When well mixed,
+butter some dariole moulds; nearly fill them. Then dip your finger in
+cold water and press a hole in the centre of each to the bottom; fill it
+with a purée of ham, and then put a coating of quenelle meat over, and
+steam twenty minutes.
+
+Purée of ham is prepared as follows: pound lean boiled ham in a mortar
+with some stock that has been boiled down to half glaze; rub through a
+wire sieve. If too stiff, moisten with a little more melted glaze.
+
+
+
+
+XVII.
+
+COLD ENTRÉES, OR CHAUDFROIDS.
+
+
+These elegant dishes are suitable for formal breakfasts, luncheons, and
+suppers, and while presenting an unusually attractive appearance, are
+easier to manage than less elaborate dishes, because they can usually be
+prepared, all but garnishing, the day before.
+
+Although in giving the recipes meat cooked for the purpose will always
+be directed, and for formal purposes no care or expense should be
+spared, the intelligent reader will see where she may make a very pretty
+dish by utilizing cold fowl, game, or lamb for any simple occasion.
+
+_Sweetbreads au Montpellier._--Parboil a pair of fine white sweetbreads,
+after soaking them in salt and water an hour. Let them get cold between
+two plates under slight pressure. Cut them into the form of cutlets
+(cutlet cutters are to be obtained at the fashionable New York hardware
+stores, and at the large French tin-shops down-town). Have some firm
+aspic jelly not quite set; dip each cutlet in it; chop some aspic that
+is hard and cold roughly; form a circle of it; arrange the cutlets on
+this; fill the centre with asparagus heads; pour mayonnaise round, and
+garnish with fancy shapes of aspic, red and white alternately. Red aspic
+is colored with pulp of the red beet stirred into it while liquid and
+then strained out; green is produced by spinach. The various shades of
+amber, shading into rich brown, that are so effective when tastefully
+mingled, are due to caramel coloring. When colored aspic is required for
+garnishing, pour off a little into separate vessels, and color each as
+required.
+
+_Chicken Salad à la Prince._--Cut the white meat of cold fowl into neat
+fillets, using a very sharp knife, so that there may be no ragged edges.
+Mask each piece with a mixture made as follows: One tablespoonful of
+finely minced capers, two of minced boiled ham, three hard-boiled eggs,
+an anchovy boned and washed, and two sardines freed from skin. All these
+must be well pounded, then rubbed through a sieve; add a teaspoonful of
+finely minced tarragon and chives. Stir all into a tablespoonful of
+mayonnaise and one of aspic, semi-fluid of course. When each fillet has
+been well coated with the mixture and has set, line a border mould with
+aspic jelly, ornament the fillets of chicken with little strips of
+beet-root and cucumber arranged like a trellis-work. Place them very
+carefully round the mould on the layer of aspic, then pour in a little
+more aspic, until the border mould is full, and set it on ice. When
+about to serve have a dish well layered with the small leaves of
+lettuce. Drop the mould for one minute in warm water, and turn out on to
+the lettuce. Fill the centre with a salad composed of cucumber cut into
+dice, peas, string-beans cooked until tender (for this purpose the
+canned French string-beans serve admirably, being beautifully cut
+ready). Pour over the centre salad some thick mayonnaise.
+
+Where mayonnaise makes too rich a dish for the digestion, béchamel sauce
+may be substituted for masking, but never for salad; for instance, two
+very simple chaudfroids of chicken may be made as follows:
+
+_Chaudfroid of Chicken_, No. 1.--Cut up a young fleshy chicken into neat
+joints, remove the skin, mask each piece carefully with béchamel sauce;
+when quite set arrange on chopped aspic in a circle, garnish with strips
+of cucumber and beet; cut the remainder of the cucumber and beet into
+neat pieces, and stir into a gill of mayonnaise, and use for the centre.
+This and all salads should be lightly seasoned before the mayonnaise is
+added, or they are apt to taste flat.
+
+_Chaudfroid of Chicken_, No. 2.--Prepare the chicken as in last recipe,
+only before masking the joints season the béchamel well with finely
+chopped tarragon; leave out the mayonnaise and aspic. Pile up the pieces
+of chicken on the entrée dish, and garnish with Roman lettuce, or, if
+that is not to be had, the hearts of Boston lettuce.
+
+_Chicken and Ham Cutlets._--Boil a young fowl with a good breast in
+clear stock; take it out, let it get cold; cut the breast into rather
+thin slices. The bones, skin, and trimmings may be thrown back in the
+stock, which can be boiled down to make both the béchamel and aspic for
+the dish (see recipes), or be kept for other purposes. Take the slices
+of chicken and some very well cooked lean ham that is cut so thin you
+can see the knife under the slices. Melt a little béchamel sauce, that
+must be like blanc-mange, pour it on a plate, and before it has time to
+cool cover the plate with the slices of chicken. Dip the ham into the
+stock (if it has been boiled down to jelly, otherwise into melted
+aspic), lay the ham over the chicken, then more thin slices of chicken.
+Now cover the whole by means of a spoon with more béchamel; when all
+this sets, which, as your sauce has only been half melted, it will do
+quickly, you have a large white cake about half an inch thick. Cut this
+cake into small pieces (unless you have a cutlet cutter), as like a
+cutlet in form as possible, using a sharp penknife or boning-knife. Take
+up each carefully, and with the end of a silver knife or small spoon
+cover the edges with the béchamel sauce, which must be nearly set for
+this purpose.
+
+To garnish the cutlets, cut some tiny green leaves from pickled
+gherkins, and red ones from the skin of a red pepper-pod, and place two
+of each in the centre of each cutlet, star-shaped; a touch of white
+sauce will make them stick; place a speck of parsley not larger than a
+pin's head in the centre. Stick a tiny lobster claw three quarters of an
+inch long at the narrow end of the cutlet, and place them in a silver
+dish round some aspic of a bright amber color, chopped. Put a very
+small sprig of parsley between each cutlet.
+
+I may here remind the reader that when aspic or béchamel is used for
+masking or for pouring into a mould as lining, etc., it must _not be
+made hot_, only softened in a bowl set in warm water, just enough to be
+free from lumps. It must, of course, be stirred from the moment it
+begins to soften. The mould to be lined should be turned about till it
+is well coated, and if there is a disposition to run off the sides, roll
+it round in ice. For instance, when the first layer of béchamel is
+poured on the plate as directed in last recipe, it must be moved about
+until quite covered, yet very thinly. If it sets too soon, hold the
+bottom of the plate over steam.
+
+_Reed-birds in Aspic._--Take the back and breast bone from a dozen
+birds, splitting them down the back first. Save the feet. Make a
+force-meat of _pâté de foie gras_ and panada in equal proportions;
+season highly, spread the inside of the birds, sew them up as nearly in
+shape as possible; bake seven to ten minutes, then dip them into glaze;
+put a little pale aspic in a dozen dariole moulds, enough to cover the
+bottom a quarter of an inch, and when just set put in a bird breast
+down; set on ice a few minutes, then pour in aspic to cover the bird a
+quarter of an inch. Put on ice. Turn out, and on the top of each strew
+pistachio nuts chopped very fine. Insert the two feet of the bird,
+scalded and dried, to stand up from the centre.
+
+_Chaudfroid of Reed-birds._--Prepare as in last recipe with _pâté de
+foie gras_ force-meat. Butter a dozen dariole moulds. Put a bird in
+each, breast downward; put the dariole moulds in a pan with a little
+water, and set it in the oven for fifteen minutes; when cold, turn out
+the birds, wipe them, dip each in brown _chaudfroid_ sauce, and put them
+on a dish to cool. When cold, lay them in rows against a pile of chopped
+aspic.
+
+_Brown Chaudfroid Sauce_ is made by putting a pint of Spanish sauce, a
+gill of cream, half a pint of aspic jelly together, and boiling them
+until they are reduced one quarter. Skim constantly, and strain for use.
+
+_White Chaudfroid Sauce_ is simply béchamel and aspic treated in the
+same way. It differs, of course, from plain béchamel in having the
+piquant flavor of the aspic; in appearance there is little difference.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII.
+
+COLD ENTRÉES.
+
+
+_Iced Savory Soufflé._--This dish can be made of fish, game, or chicken,
+but is considered best made of crab. Cut up the crab, or whatever it may
+be, into small pieces; let it soak in mayonnaise sauce for two or three
+hours. Have some well-flavored aspic jelly, half liquid; whip it till it
+is very frothy; put some of this at the bottom of the dish it is to be
+served in--a silver one is most effective; then place a layer of crab
+well seasoned, and fill it up with aspic and crab alternately until the
+dish is nearly full; place a band of stiff paper round, and fill in with
+whipped aspic; set it on ice for two hours; take off the paper, and
+serve.
+
+_Savories._--Within the last few years, which may, perhaps, be called
+the renaissance of cooking in England, since Kettner, in his "Book of
+the Table," shows that in the Middle Ages that country was famous for
+its cuisine, while France was still benighted--within the last few
+years, then, there has grown up a fashion of introducing preparations
+called _savories_. They vary very much, from the tiny little _bouchette_
+of something very piquant, to be taken between courses as an
+appetizer--which, I believe, was the original idea--to quite important
+dishes suitable as entrées for formal breakfasts or suppers. But it is
+with the original "savory" as a piquant mouthful that they will take
+their place in this book. So important a part have they come to play in
+English _menus_ (I am not now speaking of simple dinners) that the
+invention of a new "savory" is something to be proud of, and it is said
+that the very best are invented by the _bons vivants_ themselves, seldom
+by the _chef_. One lady has written a book of which _savories_ is the
+only branch of cooking treated, and she says in her preface, "Savories
+being at present so fashionable, and novelties in them so eagerly
+inquired for, I have been induced to publish a small book on the
+subject."
+
+In looking over any list of small savories we find many of our old
+friends in it, such as _cheese canapés_, _angels on horseback_, _anchovy
+toast_, etc. With these familiar dainties we will have nothing to do,
+only the mention of them will serve to show that any little piquant
+morsel may be used as an appetizer served as _hors d'oeuvres_.
+
+_The Savage Club Canapés._--These must be made small enough not to
+require dividing--in other words, can be eaten at one mouthful. Cut
+slices of stale Vienna bread a quarter of an inch thick, stamp out from
+them with a very small cutter circles about the size of a fifty-cent
+piece. Sauté these in a little hot butter till they are a very pale
+brown. Lay them on paper when done, to absorb grease. Stone as many
+small olives as you have guests; fillet half as many small
+anchovies--that is to say, split them, and remove the bones and scales;
+wash them, dry them, and roll each one up as small as possible, and
+insert it in an olive in place of the stone. Now trim one end of the
+olive so that it will stand; then put a drop of thick mayonnaise on the
+centre of one of the rounds of fried bread, which, of course, must be
+quite cold; stand the stuffed olive on it neatly, and put one drop of
+mayonnaise on the top, to cover the opening in the olive. A variation,
+and I think an improvement, on this bouchée, is to use a little softened
+aspic to attach the olive, and a small quantity finely chopped to crown
+it. Still another plan is to put a tiny disk of bright-red beet on the
+top, using aspic to cement it there.
+
+_Canapés á la Bismarck._--Cut circles with a small cutter from slices of
+stale bread a quarter of an inch thick; sauté in butter till they are a
+light brown; spread over each when cold a thin layer of anchovy butter;
+curl round on each an anchovy well washed, boned, and trimmed; sprinkle
+very finely shred olives over them. Anchovy butter is two parts butter
+and one of anchovy paste.
+
+_Caviare Canapés._--Cut some slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick;
+cut disks from them with a small round cutter; fry them pale brown in
+butter. When about to use them chop a large handful of water-cress
+leaves very fine, taking care to press them in a cloth to remove all
+water before you begin to chop; when they are almost as fine as pulp,
+mix with them an equal amount of butter; when well blended, spread each
+canapé with it, and spread a layer of caviare on the top.
+
+_Prawns en Surprise._--Cut some small rounds of bread and butter, not
+more than two inches in diameter and a quarter inch thick. Peel some
+prawns; steep them in mayonnaise sauce a few minutes; place three on
+each round of bread-and-butter, with a small piece of water-cress on
+each. Place over all some whipped aspic jelly; strew lobster coral over
+them.
+
+_Prince of Wales Canapés._--Take some fine prawns, three anchovies, two
+gherkins, and two truffles. Bone the anchovies and wash them, peel the
+prawns, and then cut all the ingredients into very small dice. Make a
+sauce as follows: Bruise a hard-boiled yolk of egg in a mortar with a
+tablespoonful of salad oil, a saltspoonful of mustard; mix with this an
+anchovy and a teaspoonful of tarragon that has been scalded and chopped;
+pound all well together, and pass through a sieve with a teaspoonful of
+tarragon vinegar and a speck of cayenne; mix enough of this with the
+prawns, etc., to season the mixture. Salt, it will be observed, is not
+mentioned, because the anchovies and prawns may be salt, but this can
+only be known to the cook by tasting. Butter some small water biscuits
+(crackers), put a small teaspoonful of the mixture on each, and cover
+with finely chopped aspic. Garnish by putting a spot of green gherkin on
+one, a spot of red beet on another, and on a third one of truffle, and
+so on alternately.
+
+_Shrimp Canapés._--Fry some rounds of bread as directed for other
+canapés. Make some shrimp butter by pounding equal quantities of
+shrimps, from which heads, tails, and shells have been removed, and
+fresh butter till they form a smooth mass; spread the fried bread with
+it. Place whole shrimps on the top in the shape of a rosette, in the
+centre of which put a tiny pinch of chopped parsley.
+
+_Cheese Biscuits à la St. James._--Take three tablespoonfuls of the
+finest flour, half a pound of cream curds, and five ounces of Brie
+cheese, which has been carefully scraped, and a pinch of salt; pound all
+in a mortar; add five ounces of softened butter and three eggs, to make
+a very stiff paste, which must be rolled very thin, and cut into round
+biscuits. Bake in a very quick oven, and serve hot.
+
+_Kluskis of Cream Cheese._--Take half a pound of fresh butter, six eggs,
+six tablespoonfuls of cream cheese, a pinch of powdered sugar, salt, and
+sufficient grated bread crumbs to make a paste, adding cream if it
+crumbles; mix well together, and roll into small balls; poach them in
+boiling water until firm (no longer). Serve hot, with a spoonful of
+poivrade sauce on each.
+
+_Cold Cheese Soufflés._--Grate one and a half ounces of Gruyère cheese;
+the same of Parmesan. Whip half a pint of cream and a gill of aspic
+jelly to a high froth; stir in the cheese; season with salt, cayenne,
+and made mustard to taste. Fill little paper baskets or very small
+ramequin cases, grate cheese over the top, and set on ice to get firm.
+
+The above mixture may be frozen just as you would ice-cream, but very
+firm, then cut out in little cubes, and serve on canapés of fried bread;
+it is then called "Croûtes de Fromage Glacé."
+
+_Oysters à la St. George._--Take the beards from two dozen oysters; put
+the melt (or soft roe) of two Yarmouth bloaters into a sauté pan with
+two ounces of butter; dry and flour the oysters, and sauté them with
+the melt. Have some squares of bread fried a nice light brown; place a
+nice piece of the melt on each square, and an oyster on top; squeeze a
+few drops of lemon juice on each, and serve very hot.
+
+_Allumettes._--For these fantastic little trifles you require anchovies
+preserved in oil--not in salt; they are found at all Italian groceries
+and at the larger American grocers'. Wipe them free from scales and oil;
+cut each into long, thin strips. Have ready some plain pastry rolled
+very thin; envelop each strip of anchovy in pastry; pinch closely, so
+that it will not burst open, and fry in very hot fat for a half-minute,
+or sauté them in butter till crisp and yellow. Serve log-house fashion,
+using two allumettes for each crossing instead of one; put fried parsley
+in the corners, and serve very hot.
+
+_Eggs à la St. James._--Take as many eggs as you have guests, and boil
+them hard in buttered dariole moulds; the moulds must be large enough to
+hold the egg when broken into it, but not much larger. When quite cold
+remove the eggs; slice off the white at one end of each, taking care to
+preserve the shape. Scoop out the yolk; mix this with a teaspoonful of
+chopped truffles, a little pepper and salt, and put it back very neatly
+into the whites. Coat the eggs with aspic jelly several times. Serve
+them upside down, that is, the uncut part upward. Put a spoonful of
+half-mayonnaise (mayonnaise mixed with whipped cream) on each, and a few
+specks of chopped truffle.
+
+A variety of this dish has anchovy paste in very small quantity in place
+of truffle, and the mayonnaise just made pink with it.
+
+
+
+
+XIX.
+
+GALANTINES, BALLOTINES, ETC.
+
+
+Galantines are so useful and handsome a dish in a large family, or one
+where many visitors are received, that it is well worth while to learn
+the art of boning birds in order to achieve them. Nor, if the amateur
+cook is satisfied with the unambitious mode of boning hereafter to be
+described, need the achievement be very difficult.
+
+Experts bone a bird whole without breaking the skin, but to accomplish
+it much practice is required; and even where it is desirable to preserve
+the shape of the bird, as when it is to be braised, or roasted and
+glazed for serving cold, it can be managed with care if boned the easier
+way. However, if nice white milk-fed veal can be obtained, a very
+excellent galantine may be made from it, and to my mind to be preferred
+to fowl, because, as a matter of fact, when boned there is such a thin
+sheet of meat that it but serves as a covering for the force-meat (very
+often sausage-meat), and although it makes a savory and handsome dish,
+it really is only glorified sausage-meat, much easier to produce in some
+other way. This is, of course, not the case with turkey; but a boned
+turkey is so large a dish that a private family might find it too much
+except for special occasions. On the other hand, galantines of game,
+although the birds may be still smaller, are so full of flavor that it
+overwhelms that of the dressing.
+
+The following process of boning, however, applies to all birds. To
+accomplish the work with ease and success, a French boning-knife is
+desirable, but in the absence of one a sharp-pointed case-knife may do.
+Place the bird before you, breast down, with the head towards you. Cut a
+straight line down the back through skin and flesh to the bone. Release
+with the left thumb and forefinger the skin and flesh on the left side
+nearest to you, and with the right hand keep cutting away the flesh from
+the bone, pulling it away clear as it is cut with the left hand. When
+you reach the wing joint cut it clean away, leaving the bone in the
+wing, and continue cutting with the knife close to the bone until all
+the meat from the left breast is released. Return to the back and
+continue to separate the meat from the bone, always keeping the edge of
+the knife pressed close to the latter, until the leg is reached; twist
+it round, which will enable you to get the skin over it, and cut the
+joint from the body bone. Proceed with the right side in the same way,
+using your left hand for cutting and your right to free the meat (to
+some this would be very awkward, and when it is so turn the bird round).
+The bird will now be clear of the carcass. Lay the bird flat on the
+board, inside upward, then cut out the wing-bone and proceed to the
+legs; cut the meat on the inside of each thigh down to the bone and
+clear the meat from it, cutting it each side until you can lift the
+bone out; then free the drumstick in the same way.
+
+If it be intended to stuff the bird in form, it would be necessary to
+bone the leg and wings from the inside, but for a galantine it is
+useless trouble, as they are to be drawn inside the bird. Spread out the
+bird, having drawn legs and wings inside, season with a teaspoonful of
+salt and half a saltspoonful of white pepper mixed together, and rubbed
+over the flesh, which must have been made as even as possible by cutting
+the thick parts and spreading them over the thin ones. If there are any
+bits of meat clinging to the bones they must be carefully gathered
+together and chopped with a pound of veal and two ounces of lean cold
+boiled ham, with four ounces of fat, sweet, salt pork. (Butter may be
+substituted if pork is objected to). When all is chopped as fine as
+sausage-meat, season rather highly with pepper and salt. Spread a layer
+an inch thick over the bird; then add some long strips of tongue, some
+black truffles cut into dice half an inch square, and a few pistachio
+nuts. Dispose these, which may be called the ornamental adjuncts of the
+galantine, judiciously, so that when cut cold they will be well
+distributed. Cover carefully with another layer of force-meat, fold both
+sides over so that the force-meat will be well enclosed, form it into a
+bolster-shaped roll, tie it up in a linen cloth securely with string at
+each end, and sew the cloth evenly along the middle, so that the shape
+will keep even. Put it into a stewpan with stock enough to cover it, two
+onions, two carrots sliced, a stick of celery, a small bunch of parsley,
+a dozen peppercorns, an ounce of salt, and the bones of the bird, well
+cracked. Let it _simmer gently_ for three hours and a half. Take it up,
+strain the liquor, and let the galantine get nearly cold. Take off the
+cloth; wring it quite dry; put it on again, rolling the galantine as
+tight as possible; tie firmly, and place it on a platter; cover with
+another platter, and place a heavy weight upon it to press it into
+shape. Let the stock get cold. Take off the grease. Add a
+half-teaspoonful of sugar and the juice of a quarter of a lemon to the
+stock, and reduce by rapid boiling to a half-glaze, that is to say, a
+jelly firm enough to cut into forms without being tough. Clear with
+white of egg in the usual way, and when quite transparent pour part into
+shallow dishes, leaving enough to cover the galantine. Color one dish a
+rich clear brown; leave the rest light. When the jelly thickens, but is
+not quite set, cover the galantine with it half an inch thick. When the
+jelly is cold, cut it into what are called _croûtons_, which may mean
+vandyked strips, to be laid across, triangles, squares, or any fancy
+shapes; the pieces and trimmings are chopped to scatter over the dish or
+lay in small piles round.
+
+_Ballotines_ are small galantines made by treating small birds as
+directed in last recipe, only that the force-meat should have a larger
+proportion of truffles, and be made of the same kind of bird; for
+instance, grouse would have rich force-meat of grouse. One grouse,
+however, would make two or four ballotines; quails make two, to be
+served as individuals.
+
+_Galantine of Breast of Veal._--Bone a breast of young white veal very
+carefully, spread it out as flat as possible on the board, pare the meat
+at the ends for about an inch so that the skin may project beyond. Take
+all the scraps of meat that may have come from boning, provided they are
+not sinewy; take also twelve ounces of veal cutlet, and half the
+quantity of fat unsmoked bacon. Chop very fine, seasoning all rather
+highly. When the meat is fine, season the inside of the veal. Mix with
+the force-meat tongue, truffles, and pistachio-nuts or olives, all cut
+into half-inch dice (the tongue larger). So mix these that they will
+come at regular intervals through the stuffing. Roll the breast round
+the stuffing, which is not spread, but laid in a mass, and sew the veal
+together. Fasten it up in a cloth, tie securely at the ends, then tie
+bands of tape round at intervals to keep it in shape.
+
+Braise this galantine for six hours in stock, which may be made of a
+small knuckle of veal and the bones and trimmings. Vegetables as
+directed for chicken galantine.
+
+Let the galantine be cold before it is untied. Garnish and glaze as
+directed for chicken.
+
+Galantine is occasionally made of sucking pig, and is very popular in
+France. The pig must be carefully boned, all but the head and feet. A
+sufficient quantity of veal, of fat unsmoked bacon, and of bread panada
+must be chopped and pounded to make enough force-meat to stuff the pig
+in the proportion of one part bacon, two panada, and three of veal,
+seasoned with a teaspoonful of onion juice and two of powdered sage.
+
+The pig's liver must have been boiled in stock, and cut in dice. There
+must be fillets or strips of rabbit or chicken, a few chopped truffles
+and olives. Mix well. Lay in the fillets as you stuff the pig, and when
+full sew up the opening. Try to keep the shape as near as possible. Then
+braise slowly for four to five hours, as directed for galantine of veal.
+Do not remove the cloth till it is cold.
+
+
+
+
+XX.
+
+HOW TO "FILLET."--COLD GAME PIES.
+
+
+I have spoken several times of "filleting." To some readers an
+explanation of the term may be necessary. To "cut up" a bird does not
+indicate the meaning, nor does the term "to carve" it do so, because to
+carve means to cut up or divide with an exact observance of joints and
+"cuts." Filleting, when applied to anything without bones, as the breast
+of a bird or boned fish, means to cut into very neat strips that are
+thicker than slices; but when you are directed to "fillet" a grouse or a
+chicken, it is intended that you should cut it into small neat portions
+regardless of joints and without the least mangling of it; therefore a
+very sharp knife must be used, and either a small sharp cleaver or a
+large cook's knife only to be employed when a bone has to be cut
+through.
+
+_To Fillet Cooked Birds: Grouse, Pheasants, or Poultry._--Cut the bird
+in half straight down the middle of the breast-bone, using a large sharp
+knife for the purpose. Lay each half on the table and take out the
+breast-bone from either side. If the bird is a large fowl, duck, or
+partridge, each breast will make three fillets, and leave a good piece
+with the wing, but average birds only make two breast fillets. Chop off
+the pinions within an inch of the meat, then cut the wing in two neatly;
+drumsticks are to be chopped off close to the meat, and divided into two
+fillets (if a large chicken or duck; leave game whole); cut the thigh in
+two also. Trim very neatly; leave no hanging skin; indeed, when
+filleting for _chaudfroids_ the skin should be entirely removed, and
+both it and the leg-bones are removed for pies. When possible, it is
+better not to use the drumsticks. From a chicken they make an admirable
+"devil," and from game they help the bones and trimmings to make a rich
+gravy; so it is no waste to discard them.
+
+Cold pies are of two kinds: the one cooked in a terrine or dish without
+pastry; the other in what the English call a "raised paste," and the
+French a _pâte chaude_. Those with paste--which is seldom eaten--are far
+handsomer, but do not keep so well--that is to say, they must be eaten
+within three or four days even in winter; while in a terrine carefully
+kept in a cool airy place the pie will be good at the end of three
+weeks.
+
+On the other hand, the pie in a terrine is much less trouble to make.
+Proceed as follows:
+
+_Game Pie._--Make some force-meat thus: Fry a quarter of a pound of fat
+ham cut in dice with half a pound of lean veal. Take the ham up before
+it gets brown, as you do not need it crisp; when the veal is cooked take
+that up also, and if there is enough of the ham fat in the pan, put in
+half a pound of calf's liver cut up in dice, if not, sauté it in
+butter. In sautéing all these they must be often stirred, as you want
+them well cooked and yet not very brown. When done they must be finely
+chopped, then pounded in a mortar, with a small teaspoonful of salt, and
+half a saltspoonful of pepper. Then add a dozen mushrooms chopped, and
+mix the whole.
+
+A game pie is usually made rather large, and the greater variety of game
+used, the better; partridge, pheasant, grouse, hare, all help one
+another, but at least two kinds are necessary. It must be boned and
+neatly filleted into small joints. Put on all the bones and trimmings to
+stew in three pints of water, with a good-sized carrot, onion, a stick
+of celery, a small bouquet, a clove, a teaspoonful of sugar, one of
+salt, and a little pepper; boil all this until the bones look white and
+dry when out of the stock. Strain, and reduce by rapid boiling to a
+half-glaze; put a layer of the force-meat at the bottom of the dish,
+then one of boned game, with a sprinkling of pepper and salt, and either
+a little finely chopped parsley or, what is far better, a few thin
+slices of truffles; pour over a little of the reduced stock; fill the
+dish in this way to within an inch of the top; make a plain
+flour-and-water paste, lay it on the pie, and make a hole in the centre,
+bake slowly in a pan of hot water. When cold, remove the paste, cover
+the top with chopped aspic, fold a napkin, and serve the terrine on it,
+with a wreath of parsley round the base. Game pie is not a dish to be
+eaten at one or even two meals (unless very small), therefore the aspic
+must be fresh each time it is served.
+
+_French Method of Making a Game Pie or Pâte Chaude._--Make a paste of
+two pounds of flour and one of lard or butter, with salt to taste and
+about half a pint of water; knead it into a smooth, rather hard paste;
+put it into a damp napkin for an hour. Butter a raised pie dish--a tin
+one that opens to release the pie--line it with the paste rolled half
+an inch thick, letting it come half an inch above the dish; line the
+inside of the paste with buttered paper, bottom and sides, and fill with
+rice or corn meal; cover with another piece of buttered paper, wet the
+top of the pastry all round, and lay a cover of thin pastry over it;
+trim very neatly, make a hole in the centre, and ornament with leaves
+cut from the paste and laid on; the under side should be slightly
+moistened to make them adhere. Brush the surface with well-beaten egg,
+and bake about an hour, when it should be a nice golden brown. Take off
+the cover; after it has slightly cooled, remove the rice or meal and the
+buttered paper; take the case from the mould, and brush it all over with
+egg inside and out; set it in the oven until the glazing dries, and any
+part that may not be sufficiently brown becomes the color of the cover,
+which, being glazed at first, is not returned to the oven.
+
+_Preparation for Filling the Case._--Fillet chickens, guinea-hens,
+partridges, or grouse (leave pigeons or quails whole, but bone them).
+Put sufficient pieces of one sort, or all sorts mixed, to fill the pâte
+chaude case into a sauté pan, with two ounces of butter, and sauté till
+lightly colored. Take them out, and put them in a stewpan with a quart
+of reduced consommé, half a pint of mushrooms sliced, a dozen truffles
+cut into dice (half-inch), a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and a
+wineglass of sherry, and let them simmer very gently, _not boil_, for
+half an hour, or until very tender. Let them cool, and when lukewarm
+arrange them in the pâte case, leaving the centre hollow, which fill
+with mushrooms and truffles. The liquor in which they were stewed must
+be then poured over them. The cover of a pâte chaude case is often not
+used, and aspic jelly covers the top of the pie.
+
+_English Manner of Making Game Pie in a Crust._--Use at least two kinds
+of game, which for this purpose must not be long kept; high game is
+acceptable to epicures when roasted or stewed, but never in a pie.
+Discard all parts blackened by shot. Cut into neat joints, from which
+bones must be removed. Take all the fragments from the carcass after the
+breast and joints are removed, and the flesh of a small bird or hare,
+or, failing that, some calf's liver fried in dice; pound whichever you
+may have for force-meat in a mortar with four ounces of bacon that has
+been boiled; when the whole forms a paste (from which you have removed
+all strings, sinew, or gristle while pounding), season with pepper and
+salt--a teaspoonful of salt to a pound of force-meat, and a scant half
+saltspoonful of pepper. Put on the bones, _without vegetables_, in cold
+water to simmer until it is a rich broth, which strain, and boil rapidly
+till a little set on ice in a saucer will jelly. Make what is called
+"raised" paste in the following way: To two pounds of flour use three
+quarters of a pound of butter and half a pint of scalding milk; pour
+this into a hole in the centre of the flour, and knead into a firm
+paste, adding a little more milk if necessary (but it seldom is). This
+paste is not to be rolled, but beaten out with the hand while warm to
+half an inch thickness. Line a well-buttered meat-pie mould, with a
+hinge opening at the side; leave half an inch of paste above the mould;
+trim off neatly with scissors. Then lay in the game and force-meat in
+alternate layers, seasoning the joints with pepper and salt as you lay
+them. A few slices of tongue and truffles to form one layer are
+desirable. When the mould is full, lay on the cover, moisten the under
+edge, and pinch round in tiny scallops. Make a hole in the centre, round
+which put an ornament; stick in a bone to prevent the hole closing, and
+bake two to four hours in a moderate oven, according to size,
+remembering always that the crust will not be injured by long baking,
+and that the game in this pie is uncooked. When it is removed from the
+oven, let it stand half an hour, taking the mould off, that it may
+cool; then brush the sides and top with an egg beaten with milk, and
+return the pie to the oven that the sides may brown; cover the top, if
+it is already highly colored, with a sheet of paper. Remove the bone
+from the centre, insert a small funnel, and after removing all fat from
+it, pour in the gravy from the bones. The gravy must be poured very
+slowly or it will bubble up, and care must be taken to have all the pie
+will hold, yet not a drop too much, or it will ooze somewhere. These
+pies, when quite cold, may be sent any distance, and are much used in
+England and Scotland for hunting-parties, besides being a standard
+breakfast and luncheon dish. The crust is merely a frame to hold the
+game.
+
+
+
+
+XXI.
+
+GARNISHES.
+
+
+In all choice cookery the appearance of dishes has to be carefully
+studied. However good the taste may be, the effect will be spoiled if
+its appearance on the table does not come up to the expectation raised
+by the name on the _menu_. For this reason the subject of garnishes
+requires to be considered apart from the dishes they adorn. In the old
+time garnishes were few and simple, and when not simple, very ugly, as
+the camellias cut from turnips and stained with beet juice. Nowadays
+garnishes are many, and many so termed form part of the dish, as what
+are termed, "floating garnishes for soup," quenelles, etc. Garnishes
+that are merely ornamental need not be so expensively made as those
+intended for eating. Foremost among fashionable floating garnishes for
+soup are the colored custards known as pâte royale; they are perfectly
+easy to make, yet very effective served in clear bouillon.
+
+_Colored Custard._--Prepare the custard with five yolks of eggs, a gill
+of cream or strong bouillon, and a pinch of salt; butter small saucers
+or cups; divide the custard in three--color one with spinach juice or
+pulp of green asparagus, another with red tomato pulp or the pulp of red
+carrot boiled, and a third with pulp of beets. A few drops of cochineal
+may be added to intensify the color of the last, which is apt to be a
+beautiful pink instead of red. The custard for which pulps are used must
+be strained after they are added, expressing as much of the juice as
+possible. The custard should be flavored delicately with the vegetable
+used for color.
+
+_Spinach Juice_ is very frequently directed to be used as coloring, but
+scarcely anywhere is any indication given that the juice without
+preparation is of very little use. It should be prepared as follows:
+Take a large handful of fresh green spinach, wash it, and remove decayed
+leaves only; drain well, then pound in a mortar or chopping-bowl until
+quite mashed. Let it stand a quarter of an hour, then squeeze the mass
+in a cloth, and put the green water into a cup, which set over the fire
+in a small saucepan of water; watch the scum rise; when it stands quite
+thick at the top and turns a vivid green, remove at once (if it remains
+on the fire after this the green darkens); pour the contents of the cup
+through cheese-cloth or thin muslin laid in a strainer. The scum that
+remains is your coloring matter. It must be carefully scraped off with a
+spoon, and mix with the custard only as much as is required to give a
+delicate green tint. If any is left it may be mixed with an equal
+quantity of salt and put away; it loses color, however, after a few
+days.
+
+The colored custards must be set in water, a small piece of buttered
+paper over each, and the water allowed to boil gently round them till
+they are firm. Let them get quite cold; then cut them into cubes or
+diamonds.
+
+_Profiterolles._--Perhaps the next in popularity of these floating
+garnishes are _profiterolles_, or "prophet's rolls," as cooks call them.
+They are made exactly like those intended for dessert, omitting
+sweetening of course, and a very small quantity is required, as they
+must be dropped no larger than a pea, and baked a _pale_ fawn-color.
+
+Put a gill of water and a pinch of salt and two ounces of butter in a
+small saucepan; as soon as they begin to boil draw the saucepan back and
+stir in four ounces of flour; beat well over the fire with a wooden
+spoon until it becomes a soft paste, then add the yolks of two eggs and
+white of one, beating each yolk in separately. It will be seen that the
+paste is similar to that made for cream cakes.
+
+A similar garnish is made in the following way: Beat an egg with a pinch
+of salt, and then stir in as much dry sifted flour as the egg will
+moisten; work it well with the hands till it is elastic, although stiff.
+Roll it on a pastry board until it is as thin as paper, then roll it on
+a clean linen cloth still thinner, and leave it a quarter of an hour to
+dry. Then fold the paste, press it very tightly together, and with a tin
+cylinder, not larger in diameter than a cent, cut out, with considerable
+pressure, as many small disks as you require to allow five or six to
+each plate of soup. Have ready in a small saucepan some _smoking hot_
+lard. Drop the disks in; they will puff and swell till they are like
+marbles. Stir them, and take them out of the fat; they require only a
+few seconds to brown, and must be taken out very pale. Add to the soup
+the last thing before serving.
+
+While aspic jelly is certainly the handsomest of garnishes for cold
+dishes, it is generally part of the food itself, and should not be so
+lavishly used that when helped there is more jelly than meat served.
+Where the jelly is intended only for a garnish not to be eaten, simple
+gelatine is sufficient. For instance, a large platter containing a
+galantine or a _chaudfroid_ may have a handsome wreath glued on the
+border, of red and green leaves, or holly leaves and red berries, or any
+device that need not be disturbed by the carver.
+
+For such decorations as these gelatine is melted in proportion of three
+ounces to a scant quart of water, cleared with white of egg, and then
+colored pale yellow with caramel or saffron, vivid red with cochineal,
+and bright green with spinach; it saves time and trouble to let this
+congeal on dishes in thin sheets. Small cutters of ivy, oak, and other
+leaves can readily be purchased at the large house-furnishing stores.
+
+One word here about uneatable decorations, never admit them at a
+children's party; they are the very part of the feast the little people
+will most crave; red leaves for them must be of red currant-jelly,
+yellow of white, etc.
+
+"Forced butter" is another form of garnish which adds much to the
+appearance of glazed ham or tongue. It is butter beaten to a white
+cream, then put in a forcer, and a pattern traced on the ham, which must
+be followed just as in icing a cake.
+
+_A Few Ways of Cooking Vegetables._--It is not intended to go into the
+general cooking of vegetables, although it may be said that even the
+choicest cooking can offer no greater luxury, or, alas! a greater
+rarity, than a dish of early peas or asparagus _perfectly cooked_. But
+this is not the place to remedy the wholesale spoiling of summer
+vegetables that goes on in almost every kitchen. I will only give what
+may be a few new ways of preparing familiar vegetables.
+
+_Stuffed Artichokes._--Wash the artichokes; boil till nearly tender;
+drain them; remove the middle leaves and "chokes" (this is the fibrous
+part round the base); lay in each a little rich force-meat, and put them
+in the oven to cook until the meat is done. Serve with rich brown
+gravy.
+
+_Fried Artichokes._--Cut in slices lengthwise; remove the chokes, cut
+off the tops of the leaves, wash them in vinegar and water, drain them,
+and dip them in frying batter. Fry in very hot oil or lard. Serve with
+fried parsley sprinkled with salt.
+
+_Beet-root Fritters._--Cut boiled beets in slices; slice raw onions;
+scald them; dry them well; then lay one slice of onion, sprinkled with
+chopped chervil, pepper, and salt, between two slices of beet. Dip them
+carefully in frying batter, and plunge into boiling fat; when pale brown
+take them up.
+
+_Cauliflower Fritters._--Parboil the cauliflower--that is to say, boil
+until it begins to be tender--about fifteen minutes; then plunge it into
+ice-cold water; this keeps it white. Break it up into branches. Dip each
+one into thick béchamel sauce slightly warmed; let them get cold; then
+take each piece separately and dip it into carefully made frying batter,
+and drop them into boiling lard; fry a pale brown, and serve garnished
+with fried parsley.
+
+
+
+
+XXII.
+
+VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING VEGETABLES.
+
+
+_Stuffed Cucumbers._--Cut large-sized young cucumbers into slices about
+two inches thick, rejecting the ends. Peel, and remove the seeds; scald
+the slices for ten minutes, plunge them into cold water, and drain them.
+Line a fire-proof china dish with very thin slices of unsmoked bacon
+which has been scalded; make some veal force-meat such as directed for
+galantines; fill the holes in the centre of the rings of cucumber till
+it is level with the surface on both sides; wrap each up in a slice of
+bacon broad enough to cover it. Tie round with a string, pour a pint of
+strong stock into the dish, and bake twenty minutes in a slow oven. When
+done, take up the cucumber, drain, and remove the bacon carefully so as
+not to disturb the stuffing. Lay in a dish, and serve with Robert
+sauce.
+
+In the following recipes the mushrooms to be used are the large flap
+ones. When canned ones will serve, the fact will be stated.
+
+_Mushrooms Stuffed à la Lucullus._--Wash, dry, and trim large mushrooms;
+chop up the stalks and broken ones fine with a teaspoonful of minced
+parsley, pepper, salt, and a tomato; make these hot in a tablespoonful
+of butter. Fill the mushrooms with the mixture, place them on a buttered
+baking-dish, and bake six minutes, basting them once or twice with
+clarified butter.
+
+_Mushrooms and Tomatoes._--Toast some slices of bread, cut them into
+rounds two inches in diameter, and butter them. Peel some firm tomatoes,
+cut them into thick slices, and lay them on the toast. On the top of
+each place a peeled mushroom. Put them on a dish that can go to table,
+pour a little clarified butter over them, put them in a hot oven for
+three minutes, and baste well. Serve hot and quickly.
+
+_Mushroom Jelly._--Take two pounds of mushrooms, put them in a stewpan
+over the fire with a gill of strong consommé. Squeeze in a few drops of
+lemon juice, add a little pepper and salt, unless the consommé was salt
+enough. Melt in a gill of water half an ounce of gelatine, and strain
+it. When the mushrooms are quite soft, pass them through a sieve, mixed
+with the gelatine, and pour the mixture into a mould which has been
+rinsed with water. When set, turn out and garnish with finely chopped
+aspic, and a few cherry tomatoes if in season.
+
+_Mushroom Baskets._--Make some puff-paste; roll it out _very_ thin. Line
+some small suitably shaped moulds (darioles will do very nicely); fill
+the centre with uncooked rice or flour to keep the shape while baking;
+cut some strips of paste, twist them, and bend them into the shape of
+handles; bake them very pale. When the pastry cases are done, empty out
+the rice, remove them from the moulds, and fill with the following
+mixture: chop as many canned mushrooms as you require with a small
+shallot, squeeze to them the juice and pulp of a large tomato, and put
+them in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of
+very thick white sauce. Stir till about the consistency to eat with a
+fork. Squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over the top. Put the handles
+in so that they stand over the tops. Decorate with fried parsley.
+
+The large Spanish or Portuguese onion that has of late years appeared in
+the markets is not often properly cooked. It is the most delicate and
+delicious of all onions, lacking the usual intense heat and rank odor.
+For this reason persons who wish to eat onions, either for health or
+inclination, will find this large onion cut up with ordinary salad
+dressing a great improvement even on Bermudas. This onion is full of a
+milky juice, which is lost in cooking if it is cut. Therefore, where a
+simple dish is required, the best way is to boil it, without peeling or
+trimming, for three hours if it weighs three pounds (it must be tender
+right through); then take it up, strip it, and remove the root, stalk,
+etc. Pour over it a rich white sauce, and serve, taking care that the
+gravy that runs from the onion is served with it. A still better way
+when an oven is not wanted is to bake them. Put them in a dripping-pan
+in the oven without removing peel or stalk. Bake at least four hours in
+a moderate oven. It will burn and blacken outside, which is of no
+consequence. Keep it turned so that the darkening may not go deeper one
+side than the other. When quite tender (but do not try it until it
+begins to shrink, or you will let out the juices), so that a
+knitting-needle will run through it, take it out of the oven, strip off
+three or four skins, remove root and stalk, and place the onion, without
+breaking it, on a dish; put a piece of butter as large as an egg, with a
+saltspoonful of salt and a quarter one of pepper worked in it, on the
+onion; cover it, and put in the oven till the butter melts, and serve
+very hot.
+
+_Stuffed Spanish Onion._--Parboil a Spanish onion; then drop it into
+ice-water; take out the centre and fill it with force-meat; cover with a
+thin slice of sweet fat pork; sprinkle with a teaspoonful of salt and
+the same of sugar; add four tablespoonfuls of stock, cover closely, and
+cook over a good fire. When the onion is tender, take it up, remove the
+pork, strain and skim the gravy, pour it over, and serve. The best
+force-meat for the stuffing is made of cold chicken, a shred of boiled
+ham, a little chopped parsley, half a dozen mushrooms, all chopped well
+and mixed with a tablespoonful of butter and pepper and salt.
+
+_Potatoes à la Provençale._--Mash and pass through a wire sieve two
+pounds of potatoes; season with pepper and salt. Grate two ounces of
+Gruyère (Swiss) cheese, pound it with enough butter to make a paste, add
+a gill of milk and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; put this in a sauté
+pan, add the potato, mix all well, and stir until the mass is pale
+brown; serve as a pyramid.
+
+_Milanese Potatoes._--Bake large potatoes till just tender; cut off the
+tops, which keep. Scoop out the potatoes, but do not break the skin.
+Mash the inside with butter, pepper, salt, and grated Parmesan; about a
+teaspoonful of butter and cheese to each will be the right proportion.
+Beat the potato mixture with a fork for a minute to make it light,
+refill the skins, put on the covers, and heat them in the oven.
+
+_Scalloped Potatoes._--Mash two pounds of potatoes with milk, and pass
+through a sieve; add three ounces of butter melted, two ounces of grated
+Parmesan cheese, and a little pepper and salt. Fill shells with this
+mixture, and brown them in the oven. Glaze them over with butter melted
+and grated Parmesan; return one minute to the hottest part of the oven.
+Serve very hot.
+
+_Tomato Jelly._--Two pounds of tomatoes, half a grain of red pepper, and
+two small shallots. Place them in a stewpan and boil till quite soft.
+Melt half an ounce of gelatine in as little white stock as possible;
+add this to the tomatoes, and strain; if not perfectly clear, clarify
+with white of egg in the usual way. Mould, and serve with chopped aspic
+round it. A little grated Parmesan may be sometimes sprinkled over it
+for a change.
+
+_Tomato Soufflé._--Prepare some tomato pulp, taking care to boil it down
+if too liquid; stir in the yolks of three eggs, then the whites well
+beaten; salt to taste. Fill either a large soufflé case or several small
+ones. Bake in a hot oven till it rises very high and is set in the
+centre; serve instantly.
+
+_Spinach Fritters._--Boil the spinach till it is quite tender; drain,
+press, and mince it fine; add half the quantity of grated stale bread,
+one grate of nutmeg, and a _small_ teaspoonful of sugar; add a gill of
+cream and as many eggs as will make a batter, beating the whites
+separately; pepper and salt to taste. Drop a little from a spoon into
+boiling lard; if it separates, add a little more crumb of bread; when
+they rise to the surface of the fat they are done. Drain them, and serve
+very quickly, or they will fall.
+
+
+
+
+XXIII.
+
+JELLIES.
+
+
+In this country culinary skill seems to run to sweet rather than to
+savory cooking; very few housekeepers but make excellent preserves and
+cakes, yet the list of sweet dishes manufactured at home is very
+limited; as soon as anything not in this category is required the
+caterer is applied to, and he has his list of water-ices, cream-ices,
+and méringues, with very little variation; sometimes, indeed, a new name
+appears on the list, but it turns out to be some old friend with a new
+garnish, or put in a different mould and given an alluring name. There
+are many delicious sweet dishes not difficult to make when once the
+processes of making jelly and of freezing are understood (and very many
+who do not pretend to be good cooks are expert at these two things),
+and others which do not require even that ability. To put a sweet dish
+on the table, however, in perfection, especially if it be an iced one,
+requires the utmost care and skill; the slightest carelessness in
+packing a frozen pudding, any delay between removing it from the ice and
+getting it on the dish, will destroy that dull, marble-like appearance
+it ought to wear when first it makes its entry, although it will gleam
+with melting sweetness long before it reaches the partakers. Happily
+there are many delightful sweets which are beautiful in appearance and
+less depending on atmosphere than any of the family of ices. The
+simplest of these are fruit jellies.
+
+I spoke just now of the art of making jelly, and many readers may think
+in using such a term for so simple a thing I am exaggerating, and
+perhaps "art" is hardly the word, yet there is a daintiness and nicety
+in making jelly which almost deserves the term.
+
+However, before talking of how sweet dishes are to be made it is
+necessary to provide the means by which they are to be redeemed from the
+commonplace of mere richness and sweetness. The flavorings and liqueurs
+keep indefinitely if well corked. Orange-flower water, it is true, will
+lose strength, but when a bottle is first opened, if it is poured off
+into small vials, and each one corked and _sealed_, it will keep its
+original strength. The following list of articles kept in store will
+enable a cook to give her cakes, creams, etc., just that "foreign"
+flavor that home products so often lack: almonds, almond paste, candied
+cherries, candied angelica, candied orange, lemon, and citron peels,
+pistachio-nuts, orange-flower water, rose-water, prepared cochineal,
+maraschino, ratafia, lemons, extract of vanilla, and sherry.
+
+Several of these things are used principally for decoration; for
+instance, the candied cherries and angelica and the pistachio-nuts.
+Consequently, unless the cherries and angelica are required for dessert
+(to which they are a showy and delicious addition), a quarter of a
+pound at a time is all that need be bought. Very likely in small cities
+or country places these latter articles may not be obtainable. But they
+are sold at the large city caterers', also at the stores which deal in
+French crystallized fruits--not French _candy_ stores--and can always be
+sent by mail.
+
+The vanilla should be of the finest quality, and had better be bought by
+the ounce or half-pint from the druggist than from the grocer. There are
+good extracts put up, no doubt, but very many of them are largely made
+of tonka-bean, the flavor familiar in cheap ice-cream, in place of the
+more expensive vanilla.
+
+In the recipes that will be given the directions will be as minute as
+possible; but to prescribe the number of drops required to flavor a
+quart of cream would be utterly impossible, the strength of the
+flavoring used differing so greatly, even in lemons. Sometimes the juice
+of half a lemon will be right for a certain thing, at another the juice
+of a quarter of one would be too much. This is where judgment must be
+exercised. If you have a very juicy lemon, although your recipe says the
+juice of half, you will remember that the average lemon would not yield
+nearly so much, and that the author had the average lemon in mind. This
+applies to all flavoring. Sometimes extract of bitter almond is so
+strong that even a drop would be too much to impart the faint almond
+flavor which alone is tolerable. In this case the thing to do for fear
+of spoiling the dish is to pour a half-dozen drops in a teaspoonful of
+water, and use from that, drop by drop, until the faint flavor desired
+is attained. In using any flavoring, great care must be taken not to put
+too much, as anything in the least over-flavored is offensive.
+
+_Mould of Apple Jelly._--Peel and cut up a pound of fine-flavored apples
+(to weigh a pound after preparation); put them in a stewpan with three
+ounces of granulated sugar, half a pint of water, and the juice and
+grated rind of a lemon. When cooked to a pulp, pass through a strainer,
+and stir in one ounce of gelatine that has been dissolved in a gill of
+water. Color half the apple with _about_ half a teaspoonful of
+cochineal, and fill a border mould with alternate layers of the colored
+and uncolored apple. When cold, turn out and serve with half a pint of
+cream whipped solid and piled in the centre.
+
+There is a great difference in the solidity of whipped cream. Sometimes
+it will be a mere froth that shows a disposition to liquefy, and cannot
+be piled up. When this is the case there is always a great waste of
+cream, for at least half will have been left as a milky residue. The
+reason for this failure of the cream to whip solid is generally because
+it is too fresh or too warm.
+
+If in proper condition, cream will whip as solid as white of eggs, and
+leave not a teaspoonful of liquid at the bottom of the bowl; nor will
+there be the least danger of cream so whipped going back to liquid. It
+will become sour, but not change its form; and it will take but a few
+minutes to beat.
+
+Cream intended for whipping should be twenty-four hours old in warm
+weather, and thirty-six in winter. It should also be thoroughly chilled,
+and if the day is very warm it would be better to set the bowl
+containing it on ice while whipping it. Put in the whip, or egg-beater,
+and _do not_ lift the froth off as it rises; it is quite unnecessary if
+the vessel you use for the cream is large enough. As you see it begin to
+thicken, which will be after steady beating for five or six minutes,
+keep on just as you would for white of eggs. When the beater is
+withdrawn you should be able to cut the cream or pile it any height. If
+by reason of excessive heat it is slow in reaching the proper
+consistency, leave the beater in the bowl, and set the whole on the ice
+until very cold again.
+
+The consistency of jelly should be only just stiff enough to keep form.
+It should shake and tremble while being served instead of remaining
+solid. It requires some little practice to make sure of this every time,
+although exact proportions be given. A tablespoonful difference in the
+pint or gill measure would, where the gelatine is only just enough,
+cause the jelly to "squat"--not an elegant term, but one that represents
+the form of a too soft jelly.
+
+A very exact recipe for plain claret jelly, and which in proportions
+serves for any other unless special mention is made of some variation,
+is as follows: Three quarters of a pint of water, one pint of claret, a
+quarter of a pint of lemon juice (this makes one quart of liquid), the
+rind of one lemon, half an inch of cinnamon in the stick and two cloves,
+one tablespoonful of red currant jelly, two ounces of gelatine, the
+whites and shells of two eggs, a few drops of cochineal, and four ounces
+of sugar; put all in a stewpan, the gelatine having been softened in a
+little of the water; whisk over the fire until the whole boils; then
+draw it off, let it stand for five to ten minutes; strain through
+flannel or fine linen _without pressure_, add a few drops of cochineal
+to brighten the color, and mould for use.
+
+Use great care in selecting cinnamon, for very much that is sold is not
+the true spice, but a cheaper one (cassia) that resembles it. Cinnamon
+has a bright tan-color, is rolled many times, and is not much thicker
+than paper when a piece is unrolled. Cassia is thicker in the roll, a
+dull brown, and if a piece is broken is like a piece of wood. It is
+similar in flavor, but much coarser, and has little strength.
+
+
+
+
+XXIV.
+
+JELLIES.--_Continued._
+
+
+If it is kept in mind that two ounces of gelatine to the quart of liquid
+is the right proportion, and that if even a tablespoonful of flavoring,
+fruit juice, or what not, is added, exactly the same quantity of other
+liquid must be omitted, there will not be much danger of formless jelly.
+Many forget this when not working from an exact recipe, and remembering
+only that a quart of cream or water or wine requires two ounces of
+gelatine to set it, they do not deduct for the glass of wine or juice of
+lemon, etc., they may add for flavoring. Although wine jelly is rather a
+simple form of sweet, suggestive of innocent country teas, a very little
+more time than the average housekeeper bestows upon it will convert it
+into a very elegant dish. In the season for fruits there is no more
+beautiful ornament for jelly than these, carefully gathered, with two or
+three leaves attached.
+
+_Jelly with Fresh Fruits._--Select cherries of two or three colors if
+possible, in sprays of two or three, and on each a leaf or two; wash
+them carefully by dipping them in and out of a bowl of water. Lay them
+between soft cloths to remove all moisture. Make a quart of punch jelly
+in the following way: Put together a pint of water, a quarter of a pint
+of the finest Santa Cruz or Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pint of sherry,
+a gill and a half of lemon juice, the rinds of two lemons, and the juice
+of one orange, or, if oranges are not to be obtained in cherry season,
+half a gill more of water, two ounces of gelatine, half an inch of
+cinnamon, the whites of two eggs well beaten and the shells crushed. Let
+this come to a boil over the fire, being well whisked the while; as soon
+as it boils draw it to a cool spot on the range, let it stand five
+minutes, and strain through scalded flannel over a bowl; let it drip,
+but do not use the least pressure. This jelly must be brilliantly clear.
+If there is any milky appearance it proves that the jelly did not really
+boil, and so the eggs had not completely coagulated; in that event boil
+once more for an instant, and strain again through fresh flannel. Oil a
+mould that has no design of fruit or vegetable at the bottom, and set it
+in cracked ice; pour in an inch or two of the jelly when nearly cold.
+Have the cherries ice cold, and arrange the sprays gracefully with due
+regard to color, remembering that the best effect must be not upward
+towards you, but towards the bottom of the mould; thus the underside of
+the leaves must be upward, etc. Do not put in more fruit than will
+display itself well. The bunches are to be isolated, not allowed to
+touch each other, and for this reason it may not be possible to lay more
+than one cluster at the bottom, if the mould is small there. In this
+case dispose a bunch of black cherries and leaves gracefully in the
+centre, pour in more jelly, half an inch or so, then nearer the sides
+arrange lighter-colored cherries, two or three clusters, no more. The
+fruit is only intended as an ornament. A jelly that is quite as pretty
+may be made by using clusters of red and white, or red, white, and black
+currants. The red and white ones should have two or three young leaves
+attached, and each cluster be perfect; no black-currant leaves must be
+used, as they have a strong flavor.
+
+_Jelly with Candied Fruits._--Make a quart of maraschino jelly, which is
+done by omitting the rum, lemon, and cinnamon from the last recipe, and
+using in place of rum a gill of maraschino, and water in place of lemon
+juice. The jelly must be very pale. Choose the fruits of as bright
+colors as possible--small green oranges, red cherries, bright yellow
+mirabelles, angelica perfectly green. Cut the oranges in half--two or
+three will suffice--leave mirabelles and cherries whole; apricots cut
+in half-moons. The angelica, if cut across a quarter-inch thick, will
+form rings, but if something more ornamental is desired it can be split
+lengthwise, softened in hot water, wiped, then tied into small
+love-knots. Pour into a mould set in ice (the melon shape is excellent
+for these jellies) an inch of jelly, let it set; then scatter in a few
+pieces of bright-colored fruit, always the best side downward; pour in
+an inch more of jelly, and when set more fruit, keeping the brighter
+pieces towards the side; if you have knots of angelica, put them near
+the side. Always see that one layer of fruit and jelly is nearly set
+before adding more.
+
+Although fruits added to jellies in the way just described are chiefly
+for decorative effect, they do add very greatly to the pleasure of
+eating them; but jellied fruits, as distinguished from _fruits in
+jelly_, are a delicious mode of eating fruit, and where it is in
+abundance afford a pleasant variety.
+
+_Jellied Raspberries._--Melt two ounces of gelatine in a gill of water,
+squeeze half a pint of currant juice from fresh currants, and crush as
+many red raspberries as will with the liquid fill a quart measure. It is
+almost impossible to give definite directions for sugar, as fruits
+differ so much. Stir in six ounces, then if not sweet enough add more;
+mould the jelly, and serve with cream.
+
+This is also very nice put in a border mould, the centre filled with
+whipped cream.
+
+_Roman Punch Jellies._--These require stiff paper cases of any of the
+ornamental kinds used for ice-cream, but they must not flare. Make some
+maraschino or wine jelly. When it begins to set, pour the jelly into the
+cases, which must be on ice, so that half the fluid jelly may set before
+it has time to soak the case. When quite set, very carefully remove the
+centre, leaving a shell of jelly half an inch thick. The last thing
+before serving fill the centres with well-frozen Roman-punch ice.
+
+_A Macédoine_ of fruits, if well managed and a good assortment of
+fruits can be had, is a very ornamental way of serving fruit. A mould
+should have half an inch of maraschino, punch, wine, or lemon jelly
+poured into it; then some perfect strawberries, or, failing those, red
+cherries, as many as the jelly will hold together without crowding, no
+more; then more jelly, and a layer of fruit of another kind (white, if
+possible), as pineapple cut into stars--a number of small stars can be
+stamped out of a few thin slices--more jelly, and a ring of dark fruit.
+Take care that all the finest fruits are used to form the outer rows.
+When the mould is almost full, with a layer or two of each kind of
+fruit, fill it up with jelly and set on ice.
+
+Creams are a favorite sweet in Europe, and eaten ice cold are delicious.
+Too often they are confounded here with blanc-mange, which may mean
+anything from corn-starch and milk to gelatine and cream, but seldom is
+improved by the confectioner's art into a really handsome and dainty
+dish.
+
+_Ginger Cream._--Make a custard of a gill of milk, an ounce of powdered
+sugar, and the beaten yolks of three eggs. Stir in a double boiler until
+thick. Let it cool. Then add one gill of the syrup from a jar of
+preserved ginger, and cut up two ounces of the ginger; add three
+quarters of an ounce of gelatine melted in as little water as possible.
+Last of all, add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Mix gently and till
+well blended; pour into a mould, and set on ice.
+
+_Neapolitan Cream._--Make a custard of half a pint of milk, the yolks of
+four eggs, and a tablespoonful and a half of powdered sugar. Let it
+cool. Cut up three ounces of preserved ginger very small; cook it in a
+gill of ginger syrup for three minutes. Let it cool also. Decorate the
+mould with one ounce of dried cherries and leaves, etc., of jelly. Cut
+the cherries in half, glue them with a little melted jelly to the side
+and bottom of the mould; cut some jelly in thin slices, or melt it and
+let it run into thin sheets, which allow to chill, and stamp from them
+leaves, or whatever shapes you please. Glue these also to the side of
+the mould in the most effective way your taste can devise. Stir one
+ounce of gelatine melted in very little water, and half a pint of cream
+whipped solid, to the custard with which you have already mixed the
+ginger and syrup. Pour all into the decorated mould, put on ice, and
+when it is to be turned out wrap a cloth dipped in hot water round the
+mould; give it a smart slap on both sides, and it will turn out without
+difficulty.
+
+
+
+
+XXV.
+
+COLD SWEETS.--CREAMS.
+
+
+_Coffee Cream._--Make half a pint of custard with two eggs and half a
+pint of milk; dissolve an ounce of gelatine and three ounces of sugar in
+half a gill of strong coffee; add the custard, and strain; whip half a
+pint of cream quite firm; stir lightly into the custard; when it is
+cool, pour into a mould, and set on ice. The excellence of this cream
+depends on the coffee, which must be filtered, not boiled, freshly made,
+and very strong--three tablespoonfuls of coffee to the half-pint.
+
+_Curaçoa Cream._--Make a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a
+pint of milk; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in as little liquid as
+possible; mix it with two ounces of powdered sugar; add to the custard;
+then stir in a generous glass of curaçoa, and let the mixture cool,
+after which add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir very lightly
+together until well blended; then mould and set on ice.
+
+_Strawberry Cream._--Hull a pint of quite ripe strawberries; put them on
+a fine sieve, and sprinkle an ounce of sugar over them; put half an
+ounce of gelatine into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of cold water,
+two ounces and a half of powdered sugar, and the juice of a lemon, and
+let it dissolve by gentle heat. Pass the strawberries through the sieve;
+strain the gelatine, etc., to the strawberry juice, and put to get cold;
+then add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir very lightly to the
+strawberry juice, etc., when the latter is beginning to set.
+
+_Vanilla Cream._--Make a custard with three yolks and one white of egg,
+and half a pint of milk and three ounces of sugar; melt an ounce of
+gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of water, strain it to the custard, and
+mix well; whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth, and stir it
+gently to the custard and gelatine; flavor with vanilla. After the
+vanilla is added, make a couple of spoonfuls of the custard pink with
+cochineal or strawberry juice; let this cool in a thin sheet; stamp from
+it small clover leaves or lozenges, not over an inch long and three
+quarters broad; decorate the bottom of a mould with them, using a little
+gelatine and water to fasten them; set the mould in chopped ice, and
+about half-way up put four or five of the pink pieces; take great care
+there is no inequality as to height or distance (slovenly decoration is
+worse than none). When the lozenges are quite secure in their places,
+pour in the cream. It is needless to repeat this form of decoration of
+creams, they can be varied so infinitely by individual taste, but as a
+rule they should be decorated only with small forms cut out of
+bright-colored jelly, or of cream colored pink, orange, pistache green,
+or brown. Candied fruits are not effective, although sometimes used,
+unless the cream itself has fruit in it.
+
+_Pistache Cream._--Half an ounce of gelatine, two ounces of powdered
+sugar; melt the gelatine in a gill of water, then add the sugar, a glass
+of sherry, and a glass of kirsch. Whip half a pint of thick cream solid,
+and when the gelatine is cold and beginning to thicken stir the cream to
+it very lightly, and at the same time two ounces of pistachio-nuts,
+blanched and chopped fine, with enough vegetable green coloring to make
+the cream a shade or two lighter in color than the nuts. This cream must
+be stirred lightly on ice after the nuts are added, till thick enough
+for them not to sink.
+
+_Almond Cream._--Half an ounce of gelatine melted in a gill of water
+with two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry; grate four ounces of
+almond paste into it, and stir in a double boiler or bowl set in boiling
+water until dissolved, or at least until there are no lumps. Let this
+get cool. Whip a pint and a gill of cream solid, and stir to the
+mixture. Decorate a mould with any red jelly, pour the mixture in, and
+set on ice. In consequence of the variation in the strength of gelatine,
+in making any of these creams try a little on ice in a saucer before
+pouring into a mould, then add more cream or gelatine as required.
+
+_Cold Puddings and Frozen Puddings._--Some of these "puddings" might
+just as appropriately be called creams; however, fashion ordains that
+they shall be puddings. One of the newest is the
+
+_Jubilee Pudding._--Make a pint of claret jelly; pour it into a small
+border mould; whip half a pint of cream in which is a quarter of an
+ounce of dissolved gelatine. When it is whipped solid, stir in one ounce
+of preserved or candied cherries, one ounce of candied angelica, one
+ounce of preserved ginger, and one ounce of preserved apricot--the
+ginger and angelica cut small. Set on ice; then turn out. Pile the
+whipped cream and fruit in the centre, and decorate according to fancy.
+
+_Cold Soufflé Pudding à la Princesse._--Melt half an ounce of gelatine
+in a gill of cream; set in boiling water till dissolved; beat the yolks
+of three eggs well, and add to the milk; when well mixed, put the
+custard into a double boiler till it thickens--it must not boil. Pour it
+into a bowl, and add a gill of apricot preserve, made into a purée by
+rubbing through a sieve with half a gill of orange juice, two ounces of
+sugar, a little lemon juice, and cochineal to color it a very delicate
+pink. Beat the whites of four eggs till they will not slip; stir them in
+very lightly with an upward motion of the spoon, the object being to
+keep the white of egg from falling, yet the whole must be thoroughly
+mixed. Stir till nearly cold before putting the soufflé in a mould to
+set.
+
+_Imperial Rice Pudding._--Pour a quarter of a pint of clear white jelly
+into a quart mould, turning the mould about so that the jelly covers
+every part; this jelly serves to keep the ornaments in place. Cover the
+inside of the mould with an ounce of candied cherries split and half an
+ounce of angelica cut into thin rings. Stew a quarter of a pound of rice
+in a pint of milk till tender; when cool, add half a pint of whipped
+cream, a quarter of an ounce of gelatine melted in a little water, a
+quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. When
+it is all well mixed, turn the preparation into the mould, and set on
+ice. When firm, turn out of the mould, and serve with a purée of
+apricots.
+
+_Diplomatic Pudding._--Make a quart of custard in the following way: Put
+the yolks of four eggs and the white of one into a bowl, and mix well
+with a wooden spoon; stir in half a pint of milk, and strain all into a
+double boiler or a pitcher; add two ounces of sugar, and stand the
+pitcher (unless you have the double boiler) in a saucepan of boiling
+water, and stir the custard over the fire until it thickens, but it must
+not boil; remove from the fire; stir in a tablespoonful of brandy and a
+little vanilla. Line a plain mould with half a pint of wine jelly; this
+is done by pouring a little in at a time when it is half fluid, rolling
+the mould about on ice, and as soon as one coat adheres, pour in more,
+until the mould is evenly coated; decorate it with half an ounce of
+candied cherries and half an ounce of angelica--the cherries split and
+the angelica cut. Melt an ounce of gelatine and two ounces of sugar in a
+gill of water; stir it into the custard with a gill of thick cream; stir
+till cool; then add an ounce more cherries, half an ounce of angelica,
+and half an ounce of citron, all chopped small. Pour this gently into
+the mould you have decorated, set on ice, turn out and serve.
+
+_Cold Cabinet Pudding._--Ornament the bottom of a pint mould with
+candied cherries and angelica; split half a dozen lady-fingers; line the
+sides of the mould very evenly with them, arranging them alternately
+back and front against the mould; put in two ounces of ratafias (these
+are tiny macaroons about the size of a five-cent piece, of high flavor,
+and to be obtained at the pastry-cooks' who make foreign specialties;
+some grocers also import them); put four yolks of eggs into a bowl; stir
+them; then add half a pint of milk; pour this custard into a double
+boiler, and stir until it thickens, taking care that it does not curdle.
+Melt half an ounce of gelatine in a very little water; strain it to the
+custard. When the latter cools, add half a gill of thick, fresh cream,
+two ounces of sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla; mix all well, and
+pour carefully into the mould without disturbing the lining of cake. Put
+the mould on ice, and, when set, turn out and serve.
+
+
+
+
+XXVI.
+
+CREAMS AND FROZEN PUDDINGS.
+
+
+Nut creams, with the exception of almond, are not very well known, but
+are so delicious that they ought to be. One reason perhaps is that it is
+not generally known that kernels of nuts, such as hazel-nuts, walnuts,
+hickory-nuts, etc., can be bought by the pound at confectioners' supply
+stores. This, of course, saves the tedious work of cracking and
+shelling. To use with creams or for frozen puddings the nuts must be
+pounded very well, with very little white of egg--just enough to moisten
+and render the process easy.
+
+_Cocoanut Cream._--Grate a fresh, sweet cocoanut (having first peeled,
+washed, and wiped it _dry_); mix with it an ounce of sugar; melt in as
+little water as possible three quarters of an ounce of gelatine; whip
+the whites of three eggs, mix them with half a pint of milk, and stir
+over the fire until the custard thickens; sweeten with four
+tablespoonfuls of sugar. Stir the gelatine and a full half-pint of
+grated cocoanut with the cocoanut milk into the custard. Whip half a
+pint of thick cream solid, and stir it very carefully into the custard;
+when the latter is quite cold, but before it sets, flavor with a little
+vanilla or lemon extract. Mould and set on ice.
+
+_Hazel-nut Cream._--Put a pint of hazel-nut kernels into a cool oven
+until they are thoroughly dry and rather hot (they must not become too
+hot, or they will change flavor); then rub them between two coarse
+cloths to get rid of as much as possible of the skin (it cannot be
+entirely removed); blow away the loose hulls, and pound the nuts to a
+paste with a little white of egg. Make a custard with the yolks of three
+eggs and half a pint of milk; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a
+gill of water, mix with six ounces of powdered sugar, and add to the
+custard when nearly cool. Stir in the hazel-nut paste, taking care that
+it is well mixed with the custard, and add a half-pint of cream whipped
+solid; flavor with vanilla, or you may omit flavoring, the hazel-nut
+being sufficient for many people. Mould and set on ice.
+
+This cream and the two that follow are flecked with brown, for which
+reason it may be colored brown with caramel, although I prefer it
+uncolored, the specks being no more objectionable than the vanilla seeds
+one rejoices to see in ice-cream.
+
+_Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream._--Pound one pint of either of these nuts,
+after rubbing them well in a cloth, make the same custard as for
+hazel-nut cream, stir in the walnut or hickory-nut paste till smooth,
+add the whipped cream, color a pale pink with cochineal, and flavor
+faintly with rum or vanilla. Mould, set on ice, and serve with whipped
+cream flavored slightly with rum.
+
+_Bohemian Jelly Creams._--These may be made of any flavor, according to
+the jelly you use. It may be jelly of fruit or liqueur. If fresh fruit
+is used for jelly, the juice must be expressed, and well-sweetened
+gelatine added in the proportion of an ounce to the pint. If jam or
+marmalade is used, a pint of water is added and the same amount of
+gelatine, with the juice of half a lemon to the pint. Water, jam, and
+dissolved gelatine must be mixed quickly and passed through a sieve;
+either must be stirred in a bowl set in ice till quite cold and
+beginning to thicken; then stir in gently and quickly three-quarters of
+a pint of cream whipped solid; pour the mixture into the mould, which
+must be set in ice. Cover well, and keep on ice till needed.
+
+_Frangipanni Iced Pudding._--Grate six ounces of almond paste to crumbs;
+then on a smaller grater grate four or six bitter almonds blanched and
+dried; pound a dozen candied orange-flower petals with three-quarters of
+a pound of powdered sugar; put all into a stewpan with the yolks of
+eight eggs, and beat them very well together. In another stewpan have a
+pint and a half of boiling milk, which must be poured over the other
+ingredients by degrees, keeping them well stirred. Place it over the
+fire, stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon;
+rub this all through a coarse sieve, add a glass of sherry, and when
+cold pour the mixture into the freezer; when half frozen add a pint and
+a half of whipped cream, and when quite frozen fill a pudding mould,
+bury it in ice and salt, and serve as you would Nesselrode pudding.
+
+_Iced Cabinet Pudding._--Cut a stale sponge cake into slices half an
+inch thick and rather smaller than the mould you intend to use for the
+pudding; lay the slices of cake to soak in brandy flavored with noyau;
+decorate the bottom and sides of the mould with candied fruits, split
+cherries, angelica rings, the same of green oranges, and little diamonds
+of ginger, with a few whole ratafias, dipping them in jelly to make
+them adhere; lay in one slice of cake, then cherries and ratafias,
+another slice of cake, and so on, until the mould is three parts full.
+Make a quart of custard with six yolks of eggs, three tablespoonfuls of
+sugar, and an ounce of gelatine; when this is cold pour part into the
+mould, which must close hermetically; pack it in salt and ice for at
+least two hours; when you wish to turn it out, dip it a minute in
+lukewarm water. Keep the remaining custard on ice, flavor it with sherry
+or rum, beat it up, pour it around the pudding, and strew it with
+chopped pistachio-nuts.
+
+_Ice Pudding._--Make a custard with a pint and a half of milk, one whole
+egg and the yolks of four others, and a quarter of a pound of sugar;
+when cold, add half a glass of brandy, a glass of maraschino, an ounce
+of citron cut fine, a quarter of a pound of dried fruits, and an ounce
+of pistachio-nuts, the fruits cut up in small pieces, the pistachio-nuts
+blanched and split; mix well; and lastly add half a pint of whipped
+cream. When well frozen, pack into a pudding mould, and bury in ice and
+salt till wanted.
+
+_Bombay Ice Pudding._--Line a plain mould with Roman-punch ice an inch
+thick, keeping it bedded nearly to the brim in ice and salt while you do
+it; then fill the centre with the following mixture: a pint of cocoanut
+grated very fine, mixed with a pint of ice-cream; take great care that
+the cocoanut is ice-cold before you mix it in, or it will melt the
+ice-cream. When the mould is filled within an inch of the top, cover it
+with Roman punch, close the mould hermetically, and bury in ice. These
+puddings, where two kinds of ice are used, must only be attempted after
+one has learned to pack plain ice-cream with success.
+
+_Iced Jelly Pudding._--Make a custard with a pint of boiling cream,
+three ounces of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs beaten; pour the cream
+to the eggs very carefully, stirring it in by degrees. Have ready a
+quarter of an ounce of gelatine dissolved in very little milk, mix it
+in, and put the vessel containing the custard in a stewpan of boiling
+water, and stir till it just thickens; then whisk it until nearly cold.
+Mask a quart mould with jelly an inch thick--any favorite _red_ jelly,
+or a pale one tinted. Directions have already been given how the inside
+of a mould is to be coated with jelly. There is an easier but
+extravagant way, namely, to fill the mould with jelly, then scoop out
+the centre neatly, leaving a shell of jelly an inch thick. The centre,
+of course, might be made hot and bottled for another occasion, or to
+make Bohemian cream jellies. When the mould is masked, fill it with the
+custard, which must be half frozen; then cover securely, and pack in ice
+and salt at least five hours before it is served.
+
+
+
+
+XXVII.
+
+ICED PUDDINGS.
+
+
+_Filbert and Wine Iced Pudding._--To one pint of cream put four
+tablespoonfuls of sugar and two glasses of fine sherry. The cream must
+be perfectly sweet, but should be at least twenty-four hours old, and be
+ice cold. Whip this solid; then freeze. Put a pint of filberts in a cool
+oven till the skins will nearly all rub off; put them between two coarse
+cloths, and rub as much as possible of the brown coating off them; pound
+them to a paste with a little thick cream, mix four ounces of sugar with
+the nuts, and then blend the whole with enough thick custard to make a
+very thick batter; flavor with lemon or vanilla, or not, as you choose;
+freeze. Line a plain mould with the frozen wine cream an inch thick;
+then fill in the centre with the frozen filberts well pressed in; cover
+tight, and pack in ice and salt for three hours, or until wanted. This
+pudding can be made of walnuts and port-wine cream.
+
+_Iced Custard with Fruit._--Flavor one pint of cream with any liqueur
+you prefer; beat twelve eggs thoroughly; strain them; boil the cream
+with five ounces of sugar, and when it is just off the boil pour it,
+little by little, to the eggs; add a quarter of an ounce of gelatine
+that has been dissolved in very little water and strained to the
+custard; whisk until cold; have ready a mould masked with candied
+fruits. To mask, set the mould in a pan of cracked ice, and dip each
+piece of fruit in strong melted jelly; build up from the bottom of the
+mould having all the fruits, cut about the thickness of a split candied
+cherry and near the size, arranged with a view to a good effect when the
+mould shall be turned out. Half freeze the custard, and pour it in the
+mould three inches high; throw in some of the trimmings of candied
+fruit chopped fine. When set, add more custard, then more fruit, until
+the mould is full. Let it stand in ice at least five hours before it is
+wanted.
+
+_Rice à la Princesse._--Let some rice swell in water until quite tender;
+proportion, one cup of rice to two (scant) of water; then butter a
+saucepan; put the rice into it, with half a pint of milk; let it stew
+gently till it will mash; the milk must have all been absorbed; sweeten
+with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Mix with this a gill of apricot jam,
+a teaspoonful of vanilla, and half a pint of whipped cream; freeze; when
+well frozen, pack in a mould and bury in ice and salt. Pound a dozen
+macaroons; stir them into a pint of whipped cream; let the mixture be
+put on ice. When the pudding is turned out of the mould, cover with the
+macaroon cream, and decorate the dish with cubes of peach or apricot
+jelly.
+
+_Chocolate Cream Pudding._--Boil a quarter of a pound of the finest
+vanilla chocolate in half a pint of milk, whisking it well till it
+boils; dissolve in it two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Beat three
+half-pints of cream and three tablespoonfuls of sugar solid while the
+chocolate cools; when it is _ice_ cold mix in one half the beaten cream,
+and freeze. Line a plain mould with the frozen chocolate (the remainder
+of the whipped cream should have been kept in cracked ice and salt, so
+as to be ice cold); fill up the centre of the mould with the cream,
+cover tight, and bury in salt and ice.
+
+_Ice-Creams and Ices._--There are so many ways of making ice-cream, that
+all one can do is to indicate the one or two best, and certainly the
+_very_ best is the simplest, and there is no dessert so easy to prepare
+in hot weather as this, since there is no work over the fire. The only
+trouble is breaking the ice and turning the machine for some twenty
+minutes, which can be done by a child.
+
+_Simplest Fruit Ice-Cream._--Mash two pounds of strawberries or
+raspberries, put to them half a pound of powdered sugar, and let them
+remain in a cold place two or three hours, so that the juice may run;
+then, strain the juice to a quart of thick sweet cream and another half
+pound of sugar, with the juice of half a lemon; stir, and pour cream and
+fruit juice into the freezer, which must be packed with ice and
+rock-salt in about equal quantities, the ice being broken quite small.
+Let the cream remain standing in the freezer a few minutes before you
+begin to turn; then freeze, letting off the water, and filling anew with
+ice and salt if necessary. Stir the cream down as it forms, and keep on
+turning five or ten minutes after it is actually necessary. This extra
+working insures that extreme smoothness characteristic of Italian and
+French ice-cream. If you are not expert in freezing, be satisfied not to
+pack your cream in a mould for the first few times. Take out the paddle
+of the freezer, press the ice compactly down in the freezer, cover, and
+see that the ice and salt are sufficient and free from water. In two
+hours you can turn the ice out of the freezer in a round column or loaf
+that will be quite as sightly as the oblong square one frequently gets
+from the caterer. Many people think that simply freezing the pure cream
+produces the loose, frothy cream found at inferior confectioners', but
+this is not the case; pure cream frozen results in a firm smooth mass
+which cuts like butter.
+
+I have given the formula for raspberry and strawberry cream only, but
+any fruit juice may be substituted, varying the quantity of sugar as
+required.
+
+When it is desirable to freeze the fruit in the cream instead of the
+juice, it must not be added until the cream is frozen. Stir in
+raspberries, strawberries, chopped pineapple, banana, or peaches just
+before the ice is ready to pack down; otherwise the fruit, being full of
+water, will freeze into hard knots.
+
+_Tutti-frutti Ice-Cream_ being made from chopped candied fruit, this
+precaution is not necessary; the fruit may be added at any time during
+the freezing, or stirred in last, as you please.
+
+I have given the simplest and best method of making ice-cream, yet the
+way most in use is to add custard; and French cooks always use "méringue
+paste," claiming that it insures a smoothness and lightness nothing else
+can give.
+
+_Custard for Ice-Cream._--This is made as any other custard, except that
+double the amount of sugar is allowed for everything that is to be
+frozen. It may be made of from three to six eggs to a pint of milk, as
+you prefer. This must be ice cold before you put it in the freezer.
+
+_Ice-Cream with Eggs._--One pint of milk, three eggs, leaving out one
+white, half a pound of sugar (if acid fruit is to be added, it may
+require more for some tastes). Make a custard of these materials, and
+half freeze it; then add a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir in well and
+finish freezing, turning the handle some few minutes after it gets
+pretty stiff, if there is a strong enough hand near to do it.
+
+In making varieties of ice-cream you have only to consider the fitness
+of the articles you use; for instance, any sort of fruit may be added,
+with the exception of lemons. Fleshy fruits, such as pineapple, peaches,
+pears, etc., are usually mixed with the cream uncooked in this country;
+abroad this is only done with soft fruits, such as raspberries,
+blackberries, oranges, and such as will mash through a colander. Others
+are very slightly stewed in rich syrup (as nearly their own juice as
+possible), then pulped and mixed through when the cream is nearly
+frozen.
+
+In winter, fruit jams, and especially jellies, are very pleasant in
+ice-cream; they always require a little lemon juice to restore some of
+the natural sharpness of fresh fruit. A tumbler of red currant jelly
+turned into a pint of ice-cream is delicious, and gives a pretty, faint
+pink tint. The method is just the same whether for custard and cream or
+cream alone.
+
+The méringue paste alluded to as used by foreign confectioners is made
+by beating the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar
+until stiff.
+
+_Grilled Almond Ice-Cream._--Make a quart of ice-cream; grill some
+almonds in the following way: Blanch four ounces of almonds, dry them in
+a hot spot till they are brittle; then put in a thick saucepan or sauté
+pan four ounces of sugar and a gill of water; let them boil five
+minutes; throw in the almonds; stir them till part of the sugar adheres
+and they begin to turn yellow. Take them up, chop them, and when quite
+cold stir them into the ice-cream, which should be flavored with
+vanilla.
+
+
+
+
+XXVIII.
+
+ICE-CREAMS AND WATER-ICES.
+
+
+To those very fond of tea, ice-cream made with it is very acceptable,
+and is very much used at English garden parties.
+
+_Tea Ice-Cream._--To one pound of granulated sugar put a pint of strong
+green tea, a pint and a half of cream, and two quarts of rich milk, and
+a very little cinnamon water. Let the whole simmer one minute, not
+stirring, but keeping the mixture in motion by gently swinging the
+saucepan. Freeze as usual. This recipe may be used for coffee and
+chocolate; it will make a large quantity, and for a medium-sized family
+one quarter will suffice.
+
+_Chinese Ice._--Beat the yolks of fifteen eggs with three quarters of a
+pound of powdered sugar; pound four ounces of pistachio-nuts (blanched)
+with the white of an egg; put to it three gills of water; stir it over
+the fire in a double boiler till it is as thick as cream; take great
+care that it does not boil. Color it green, or part green and part
+yellow; flavor as you please; cut up a couple of candied Chinese oranges
+small and a little preserved ginger, and freeze.
+
+_Water-Ices._--These are exceedingly simple, and no more elegant form of
+refreshment can be offered than a plate of well-frozen or a tumbler of
+half-frozen water-ice. It is acceptable when ice-cream would be too
+heavy, and can be offered at the simplest country afternoon tea, or
+during a call, without the seeming ostentation of ice-cream.
+
+_Ginger Water-Ice_ (to serve as a beverage if preferred).--Take six
+ounces of preserved ginger, free from fibre; pound it; make two quarts
+of lemonade by paring eight or ten lemons so thinly that the knife-blade
+shows through the yellow; put the peel of three in a pitcher with a
+pound and a quarter of sugar; pour two quarts of boiling water on them,
+and cover; squeeze and strain the juice from the lemons, add to the
+water, and when cold stir in the pounded ginger, with the méringue paste
+made with the whites of four eggs. Freeze it. If for drinking, only half
+freeze, work only enough to make it like half-melting snow, and use only
+sugar enough to make a refreshing drink. Italians call this _granito_,
+and it is a form of ice not often met with in this country.
+
+_Pineapple Water-Ice._--This can be readily made of canned pineapple
+when the fresh fruit is out of season. Peel a pineapple; grate it into a
+mortar; then pound it well with six ounces of sugar; let it stand
+covered for an hour; add the juice of five oranges, and a pint and a
+half of syrup boiled to the little thread, or _à lissé_. (This syrup is
+much used in making water-ices, punches, etc. It is sugar and water
+boiled till it forms a little thread between thumb and finger.) Mix well
+and freeze. If canned fruit is used, you need less sugar, and
+substitute lemon for half the orange juice.
+
+_Almond Water-Ice._--Take one pound of almond paste, a pint and a half
+of water, and three quarters of a pound of sugar; grate the paste; then
+stir till quite dissolved. Flavor with vanilla or raspberry; stir in the
+whites of two eggs and some candied fruits cut up small. Freeze as
+usual.
+
+_Cinnamon Water-Ice._--This is a German ice, and very much liked by
+those who are fond of the flavor. Pound an ounce of the finest quality
+of cinnamon in the stick, put it into a pint and a half of boiling
+water, and cover it well; when it is cold add a quart of syrup (the
+little thread) and the well-beaten whites of two eggs, and freeze it.
+
+_Pistachio Water-Ice._--Blanch and pound a pound of pistachio-nuts,
+using the white of an egg to moisten; mix with a quart of syrup _à
+lissé_. Heighten the color, if too pale, with spinach coloring, and
+flavor to taste. (Pistachio-nuts have no flavor of their own,
+astonishing as the fact may seem to those who have heard frequently of
+pistachio flavor.) Freeze as usual.
+
+_Apricot Water-Ice._--There is no more delicious water-ice than this if
+fine-flavored apricots are used. The canned ones are excellent for the
+purpose. Pulp two pounds of apricots through a sieve or jelly press;
+grate or pound very fine five or six bitter almonds; mix with the pulp
+the juice of the apricots (from the can), and a pint and a half of
+syrup, and the beaten whites of three eggs made into a paste with three
+tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar; stir all well, and freeze. This ice
+ought to be the color of apricots; if too pale, add a very little
+saffron coloring.
+
+_Currant Water-Ice._--A pint of currant juice, a pint of syrup, and the
+whites of three eggs made into méringue paste. Freeze as usual. Any of
+these water-ices can be half frozen as _graniti_, and served in glasses
+as _granito_, the only exceptions being the almond and pistachio
+water-ices.
+
+_Graniti_ are also made of various kinds of light punches by adding to a
+quart of the usual punch recipe a quart of sweetened water. Any summer
+beverage made from fruit juice can be turned into a _granito_, by half
+freezing, in either of the following ways:
+
+_To Freeze Graniti._--Mix the beverage you intend to freeze, for
+instance, we will say, a pint of very strong, clear, bright coffee and
+half a pint of syrup _à lissé_. Put them into the freezer and turn; as
+it becomes frozen up the sides, scrape it down with a spoon, and
+remember, as soon as it resembles snowy water (not white, of course) it
+is frozen enough. It must be just liquid enough to pour out.
+
+There is a second way of freezing _graniti_ by which they can be put on
+the table in the vessel in which they were frozen. Place the mixture in
+wide-mouthed water-bottles, twirl them round in ice and salt, and, as
+the contents become frozen on the inside of the bottle, scrape down
+with a narrow wooden stick or spatula. When frozen in perfection the
+bottle should seem half filled with tiny crystals.
+
+_Claret Granito._--To one pint of orangeade add a bottle of claret. Half
+freeze.
+
+_Sherry Granito._--To one quart of lemonade add a bottle of sherry, and
+freeze.
+
+The housekeeper who lives far from a large city will need materials for
+many of the recipes given in these papers and others which she will meet
+with in books on high-class cooking. Many of these can be sent for by
+mail, and all, of course, by express; but it will often not seem worth
+while to send perhaps for one small bottle that we may lack. For this
+reason I give a few directions for preparing very tolerable imitations
+of liqueurs, which, however, unless it were a question of economy, it
+might not be worth while doing if within reach of stores.
+
+_Curaçoa._--Pare a dozen and a half of dead-ripe oranges so thin that
+you can see the knife pass under the rind; pound one dram of finest
+cinnamon and half a dram of mace; put them to steep for fifteen days in
+a gallon of pure alcohol, shaking it every day. Make a clarified syrup
+of four pounds of sugar and one quart of water well boiled and skimmed;
+add this to the curaçoa. Rub up in a mortar one dram of potash with a
+teaspoonful of the liqueur; when well mixed add it, and then do the same
+with a dram of alum. Shake well, and in an hour or two filter through
+thin muslin. It will be ready for use in a a week.
+
+_Maraschino._--Bruise two ounces of cherry kernels and one of bitter
+almonds; put them in a deep jar with the thin outer rind of twelve
+oranges and five lemons. Steep in one gallon of English gin or alcohol.
+Let the whole stand a fortnight, then filter and bottle.
+
+_Ratafia._--Blanch the kernels of uncooked peaches or apricots, and when
+you have two ounces pound them, and pour to them a quart of gin or
+alcohol and the thin yellow rind of two lemons. Sweeten with a pound of
+white sugar-candy, and leave the whole for two months; then filter and
+bottle for use.
+
+_Candied Orange and Lemon Peels._--These are invaluable both as
+decoration for certain desserts and for culinary purposes, and as they
+are not always to be found except in the larger cities, the method of
+preparing them is here given: Throw the peels into salt and water, all
+pulp being removed, but the white part must be left untouched; in fact,
+the thicker the peel the better for the purpose, thin-skinned oranges
+being of no use for candying. Let them remain in the salt and water from
+nine days to three weeks; then wash them, put them on the fire in cold
+water, and let them boil till perfectly tender, yet they must not be
+mushy. During the time they are boiling change the water until it no
+longer tastes salt. Lemon-peels may take from three to four hours'
+boiling, orange-peels less; but remember, should the lemon-peel not be
+quite tender, it will harden when it goes into syrup, and instead of a
+rich sweetmeat there will be only woody chips. Drain the peels, and make
+a thin syrup of a pint of water to each pound of sugar. Let it boil five
+minutes; then throw in the peels; they must boil gently in this until
+they are clear and the syrup has become thick--almost boiled away, in
+fact. Now make another syrup, half a pint of water to two pounds of
+sugar; let it boil till clear and till there is a short hair from the
+fork. Now put in the peels (which must have been drained from the other
+syrup); remove from the fire; stir them round till the syrup looks
+whitish; then lift each piece out and lay it on a dish on which
+granulated sugar has been freely sprinkled.
+
+Both orange and lemon peels are candied by the same process, but they
+must never be put in the same vessel of salt and water, nor must they be
+candied together, or the distinctive flavors would be lost.
+
+
+
+
+XXIX.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.
+
+
+Under this head I intend to give a few sweets that seem to me unusually
+good, although they may not always be novel, except in manner of
+serving. A compote of fruit has nothing new about it, yet by the way in
+which it is served it may simply be "stewed fruit," or it may be a dish
+fit to find a place even in choice cookery.
+
+In making compotes great care must be taken to preserve the shape and
+color of the fruits. In order to do this they must be quickly peeled and
+dipped into strong lemon juice and water, and dropped into syrup in
+which also a little lemon juice has been squeezed. Pass the blade of the
+knife over its own marks to obliterate the appearance of peeling.
+Peaches and apricots may be boiled up without peeling, and (unless they
+are allowed to get too soft) the skins will be removed easily. It will
+be observed that hard fruits such as apples are simmered in thin syrup
+to get tender, while rich soft fruits are dropped into syrup boiled to
+candy height.
+
+_Apple Compote_ No. 1.--Cut up and boil half a dozen apples in a pint of
+water. When they are quite soft strain the juice from them without
+squeezing; put to it half a pound of granulated sugar and the zest of a
+lemon (the zest is the peel so thin that the knife blade can be seen,
+through it while paring), together with the juice. Let this syrup boil
+for a minute; skim it. Then pare half a dozen fine cooking apples; core
+them; let them boil gently in the syrup until quite tender, but not in
+danger of breaking. Take them up on a perforated skimmer. When cold, put
+the apples into a compote dish. Boil the juice to a jelly; pour part of
+it over the apples; dip a plate in cold water, drain it, and then pour
+out the rest of the jelly into it: it should only cover it about the
+thickness of thick paper. When stiff, warm the under-side of the plate
+_very slightly_, pass a broad thin knife under, and lay the sheet of
+jelly over the apples in the compote dish.
+
+_Apple Compote_ No. 2.--Prepare the apples as in last recipe, but before
+the last sheet of jelly is laid over them ornament with rings and leaves
+of angelica, and any red jelly or preserve cut in thin slices and
+stamped out with tiny tin cutters in leaves, stars, or fancy shapes
+(stiff red currant jelly of red quince may be used); decorate thus each
+apple; then lay the thin sheet of apple jelly over all.
+
+_Compote of Stuffed Apples._--Prepare the apples as in the foregoing
+recipes, taking care to core them all through without splitting the
+apple. When the apples are done, fill the centre with orange marmalade
+or apricot preserve. Boil the syrup down till it will glaze; pour it
+over the apples when they are ice-cold, the syrup also only warm enough
+to remain liquid. By this means the rich coating will remain over the
+apples, while if both were warm it would run off.
+
+_Compote of Apples or Pears Grillé._--If you have any apples or pears
+left from a compote (or you may, of course, prepare them especially),
+put them into a frying or sauté pan over a brisk fire; put with them any
+syrup there may be and a cup of sugar just dissolved in water; boil
+rapidly down to a pale caramel, rolling the apples with a fork so that
+they become covered with the caramel. Take great care that the syrup
+does not burn; remove it from the fire the moment it begins to change
+color. The apples should now have an even glossy surface; as each is
+finished put it at once into the compotier. Pour a little curaçoa syrup
+round just before sending to table.
+
+_Compote of Apple Marmalade._--This is not so troublesome to make as it
+sounds, especially to any one who has made glacé nuts--a very general
+accomplishment nowadays. Reduce some apple marmalade by leaving it for
+an hour or two in a double boiler; the water boiling round it will
+evaporate moisture without danger of burning. Stir occasionally, and
+when the marmalade is so reduced that it will make a firm paste when
+cold (try a little in a saucer on ice), color one half pink with
+cochineal. Spread half an inch thick on plates slightly oiled; when
+stiff and cold, cut out the marmalade into squares, ovals, diamonds,
+leaves, etc., with tin cutters. Boil a pound of sugar with a gill of
+water to the crack--that is, until a teaspoonful dropped in ice-water
+will crack between the teeth. Oil a fork and a large dish, and use the
+fork to drop the pieces of marmalade into the candy; lift them out
+quickly, and lay them on the dish, which will be better if it is set on
+ice. When they are cold, dish them in a pyramid, the pink to contrast
+with the white effectively. Pour a little liqueur-flavored syrup round
+the base of the fruit.
+
+_Compote of Pears (white)._--Use any fine-flavored dessert pears. Cut
+them in halves, core, pare, and trim neatly, and simmer them in syrup (a
+pound of sugar and juice of half a lemon to a pint of water) till they
+are tender, yet firm to the touch. Dish the pieces, keeping them close
+to each other. Lay a thin sheet of apple jelly over them, and the syrup,
+boiled down till rich and thick, round them.
+
+_A Pink Compote_ is prepared in the same way, the only difference being
+that a very few drops of cochineal are added to the syrup before the
+pears go in. Decorate with angelica.
+
+_Pears à la Princesse._ Select seven pears of the best quality, without
+blemish, and of equal size; pare them with great care; stand them close
+together in a saucepan, with weak acidulated syrup to cover them; simmer
+slowly till quite tender, but yet firm to the touch; take them up,
+leaving the syrup to boil down. When cold, cut the stalk end off each
+pear about an inch deep, or so as to leave about an inch of surface, on
+which place a ring of angelica (simply cut angelica crosswise and it
+forms rings, being tubular); if the rings are flattened, lay them in
+syrup; when softened bend them round and lay one on each pear; then, if
+in season, dip a fine strawberry or stoned red cherry in the hot syrup
+and lay it on the ring of angelica. Cut strips of angelica and run them
+through the strawberry down to the pear, both to hold the decoration in
+place and to represent the stalk; dish them standing; when dished up,
+pour some syrup, boiled till thick and rich, over the seven pears. When
+fresh fruit is not in season for decoration, use candied cherries.
+
+_Variegated Compote of Pears._--This is a pretty dish. Prepare some
+pears as in the last recipe, except that the tops are not to be cut off;
+color half the number a pale pink by adding a few drops of cochineal to
+the syrup in which they are simmered; dress them alternately, a pink
+pear and a white one, in the compotier; pour over each the pink and
+white syrup in which they were cooked, and pour syrup flavored with
+vanilla round them.
+
+_Compote of Oranges._--Divide six oranges in halves; first cut out the
+centre string of pith, pick all pips out carefully, and with a very
+sharp knife pare off the peel of the orange down to the naked
+transparent pulp; in this way you get rid of the whole of the white
+outside skin. Place the halves as you do them in a bowl; pour over them
+some hot syrup boiled _à lissé_, flavored with orange peel, rubbed with
+lump sugar, and previously dissolved in the syrup; a very little lemon
+juice should be added if the oranges are very sweet. Let them steep a
+few minutes; then remove them; then build the oranges into a pyramid on
+the compotier, and the last thing before going to table pour the syrup,
+well boiled and cold, over them.
+
+_Chestnut Compote._--Take the largest French or Spanish chestnuts, make
+slits in the peel, and boil till tender; take off the shell, and press
+them flat without breaking; lay them in a saucepan; pour over them
+thick syrup; put them in the oven, but do not let them boil; when they
+look quite clear take them up, put them into the compotier, boil the
+syrup to candy height, squeeze into the compotier the juice of an
+orange, and pour the candy over the chestnuts.
+
+_Chestnut Compote_ No. 2.--Prepare the nuts as in last recipe; put the
+yolks of three eggs in a saucepan; stir gradually to them a pint of
+cream; cook a quarter of a pound of sugar to the crack, with a few dried
+orange flowers; the minute the candy begins to get yellowish pour it
+into the cream, stirring constantly, and let it come to boiling-point;
+then strain the cream over the chestnuts.
+
+
+
+
+XXX.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.--_Continued._
+
+
+Strawberries, raspberries, currants, etc., need very little cooking, and
+that little in high candy. If it is understood that strong syrup tends
+to make fruit firm, and weak syrup to make it tender, it will be seen
+why all soft fruit, in order to keep its shape, should be dropped into
+candy boiled till brittle, and why apples and other hard fruits should
+be first stewed in weak syrup until soft; yet there are degrees; for
+instance, hard peaches require thin syrup, and very luscious ones must
+be put into syrup that is very near candy. This is also the case with
+pears. Be guided as to the strength of the syrup by the kind of fruit.
+Avoid fruit that is very ripe, because the syrup from it will not jelly
+readily.
+
+_Compote of Strawberries._--Select a quart of fine large berries, rather
+under than over ripe; boil three quarters of a pound of sugar to the
+crack; drop the strawberries into the syrup after it is removed from the
+fire; return them to the range; let them boil gently once; take out the
+berries most carefully with the skimmer; lay them on the compotier; boil
+the syrup fast, skimming it carefully then pour it over the fruit.
+
+_Compote of Cherries_ is made in the same way, with the finest red
+cherries, only they require to boil up several times. When clear, drain
+them with the skimmer; lay them in the compote dishes; add a gill of red
+currant juice to the syrup; boil it till it is a weak jelly; then throw
+it over the cherries when nearly cold.
+
+_Orange Baskets Filled with Fruits._--Select seven oranges, not too
+large, but all the same size. With a very sharp knife pare the fruit as
+thin as possible--so thin that it still remains yellow, and only the
+shining outer surface is removed (in fact, it may be lightly grated
+off, but that is more trouble), to render them transparent; cut two
+quarters out of the upper part of the orange, so as to leave a narrow
+band half an inch wide, which will form the handle; pass the knife
+carefully round inside the band, so as to remove the strip of pulp. With
+the bowl of a teaspoon detach the remaining pulp from the inside without
+in any way damaging the shape of the basket. As you prepare them, drop
+them in a saucepan of cold water, and then put them into boiling water,
+and simmer three minutes gently. This is only to soften the peel and
+enable you to stamp out the edges with a perforating cutter, if you have
+one, which will give them an openwork effect; if not, just scallop them
+with scissors, and snip out a sort of trellis-work to increase the
+basket effect. Put them into a preserving-kettle with weak syrup _à
+lissé_, boil them gently till they look clear, then put them aside in
+the syrup till next day; boil the syrup twice alone at intervals of
+several hours, and throw it over the baskets. These baskets may be kept
+ready prepared for months by putting them in wide jars and covering them
+with syrup. When required for use, they must be taken out, drained
+thoroughly, and then filled with a variety of small fruits, such as
+cherries, strawberries, currants, etc., which have been mixed with a
+little apple or orange jelly. In winter, ambrosia--a mixture of cut-up
+banana, grated cocoa-nut, orange quarters, etc.--may be served in them,
+or a mixture of preserved fruits that are firm, such as Chinese oranges,
+limes, ginger, etc. In all cases serve them on a compote dish, and throw
+over them syrup flavored with maraschino.
+
+_Lemon Baskets_ are prepared precisely as the orange baskets, but they
+require longer boiling, and the syrup they are served with should be
+flavored with citronelle or the rasped peel of green limes.
+
+_Orange Baskets Glacé._--These are not much more trouble than the
+baskets simply preserved, but if successfully done they can be very
+effectively filled with candies or ice-cream. Prepare the baskets as in
+last recipe, drain them on a napkin, very carefully remove all moisture
+from the inside, and set them over a register, or in an oven with the
+door open, to dry. Boil two pounds of sugar with a pint of water and two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar till it begins to change color (this is some
+little time after the brittle stage is reached, and is called caramel);
+lightly oil the skimmer, and drop a basket in the candy; remove as
+quickly as possible, but see that the whole is well coated, yet has as
+little superfluous candy as possible, for which reason the baskets must
+be warm when they are dipped, also the skimmer. You must not leave the
+candy on the fire after it _begins_ to change color, but the work of
+coating the baskets had better be done quite near the fire, with the pot
+containing the candy on some part of it where it will be kept hot, but
+not cook. They must be slipped on to an oiled dish, and, needless to
+say, most carefully handled.
+
+Other baskets are made with nougat, others with pastry, and the Swiss
+make what they call _Vacherin_ with almond paste, and serve whipped
+cream in them; but the idea may be extended and improved upon by serving
+dried fruits or candies, or ice-cream in them, and they are a decided
+improvement on the paper baskets so often used for the last purpose,
+being eatable.
+
+_Swiss Vacherin._--Take half a pound of almond paste, three quarters of
+a pound of confectioners' sugar, and the white of one egg. Shave the
+almond paste, stir the egg and sugar together, and flavor with a little
+orange-flower water or wine; work all together with the hand into a
+smooth, stiff paste that will roll out; if there is a disposition to
+crack or crumble, use more white of egg and almond paste. Roll it just
+as you would pie crust on the pastry board, using confectioners' sugar
+in place of flour. Line small cups or tartlet moulds, or anything that
+will make a good form for baskets, which have been very slightly oiled.
+Put them aside to harden and dry. Chop a tablespoonful of blanched
+pistachio-nuts till they are as fine as corn-meal, mix with an equal
+quantity of granulated sugar. Trim the edges of the cups or baskets with
+scissors, turn them out of the moulds, very carefully dip the edges in a
+saucer containing white of egg beaten to liquid--the edges only need to
+be just wet. Have the chopped pistachio-nuts and sugar also in a saucer,
+dip the wet edge of the cup lightly into it, and shake gently. If
+properly done, the cups will now have a pretty green border. When these
+are filled with whipped cream, sweetened, flavored, and colored, they
+are called _Swiss Vacherin_. Filled with plain whipped cream, and the
+top covered with strawberries, they are called "Chantilly cups," but
+they may be used in many decorative ways, to hold preserves or candied
+fruits, etc., etc.
+
+_Little China Dishes._--This quaint recipe is from the immortal Mrs.
+Glasse, and on trial was found so unique and agreeable a variety to our
+modern fancies that with some little changes to suit our present ideas I
+give the last-century dainty. If you have any pretty-shaped little tin
+dishes, without fluting, to mould and bake them in, they are very little
+trouble to make. Take the yolks of two eggs, two small tablespoonfuls of
+sherry, and one of rose-water, beat together only enough to mix, then
+use as much fine flour as will make a firm paste that can be rolled out
+exceedingly thin. Cover some nicely shaped little tins slightly
+buttered, press to the form, be careful the paste fits without creases,
+and bake in a cool oven. When the paste is crisp, with very little
+change of color, they are done. Do not touch them till they are cold, as
+they may be brittle. Stir the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of
+rose-water and confectioners' sugar enough to make a smooth icing;
+squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and when the little dishes are
+cold, ice the under side only just thick enough to mask the pastry; when
+they are dry and hard, turn them over and ice the inside; do this with
+great smoothness, to look as much like porcelain as possible. If you
+choose, when the icing is quite hard, you can wet the edge of the dishes
+with white of egg and dip them in chopped pistachio-nuts and sugar, like
+the Chantilly baskets, or in nonpareils (the smallest size). They may be
+used to serve anything sweet, from jelly to candies.
+
+_Almond Trifles._--With the almond paste used for Chantilly cups many
+trifles may be made with very little trouble; for instance, mix a
+tablespoonful of flour with the paste; roll it out; cut into circles;
+pinch up two sides; place a little handle over the centre, and in each
+open end, which must be bent slightly upward, place a candied cherry.
+Or cut a number of thin strips of paste, stick them together in the
+middle with white of egg, pass a strip of almond paste round so that the
+strips look like fagots of sticks, let them just color in the oven, sift
+sugar over them, and put them away. The paste may be rolled as thick as
+a pipe-stem and tied in knots, the surface just moistened, and sugar
+sifted over them; these also must only just take color in the oven.
+These are only suggestions for using up the trimmings from the cups.
+
+
+
+
+XXXI.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.--_Continued._
+
+
+_Raspberry Charlotte Russe._--The simplest and quite the most effective
+way of making charlottes of any kind is the following: Take a strip of
+light cartridge or drawing paper from two to three inches wide, measure
+it round a mould the size you wish the charlotte to be, and cut it an
+inch larger; piece the two ends together, lapping an inch. Lay this
+paper circle on an ornamental dish (the one you wish to use), split
+lady-fingers, and stand them around it inside like a picket-fence, only
+as close together as they will go, inserting a pin from the outside
+through the paper and each cake as you do it. When you have lined the
+paper completely you will have a close frame of lady-fingers held in
+place by pins. Whip a pint of _perfectly sweet_ cream that is at least
+twenty-four hours old and has been thoroughly chilled on ice. Sweeten
+the cream with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and flavor it with
+a tablespoonful of raspberry _juice_ (not syrup) mixed with a
+tablespoonful of powdered sugar; sometimes the raspberry juice will
+color the cream a beautiful faint pink, which cannot be improved upon,
+but if it is not bright enough in tint stir in one or two drops of
+cochineal. If the weather is warm stand the vessel containing the cream
+in ice; then beat without stopping to skim the froth as it rises. In
+about ten to fifteen minutes the cream ought to be perfectly solid if
+all the conditions were observed, and the beating carried on in a cool,
+airy room. If, however, the cream is not solid enough to keep shape, set
+it on ice for an hour and beat again. Fill the centre of the frame of
+lady-fingers, piling it high; decorate either with chopped
+pistachio-nuts lightly sprinkled, or with rings of angelica. The
+raspberry _juice_ used for flavoring is to be obtained at first-class
+druggists', where the best quality of soda-water is sold. It is
+unsweetened, and although I have kept it two or three months in cool
+weather, it often will not keep many weeks; it is therefore better to
+buy it by the gill or half-pint, if your druggist will sell it so, than
+to buy a large bottle, although it is so useful for making raspberry
+jelly, raspberry shrub, and many other things, that even a bottle is not
+likely to be wasted. It must not be confused with raspberry _syrup_,
+which is heavily sweetened, but not nearly so fragrant. Before serving
+the charlotte remove the pins and take the paper off.
+
+_Charlotte Russe with Gelatine._--Prepare a frame as in last recipe,
+also beat a pint of cream sweetened and flavored with wine or to taste;
+melt in a pint of milk half an ounce of gelatine. The French gelatine is
+very pure, easy to melt, and no more expensive than any other good kind,
+and for delicate uses preferable to them. Make the gelatine and milk
+into a custard with two eggs, sweeten with two tablespoonfuls of sugar,
+flavor to taste, and put to get cold, stirring it once in a while; when
+it begins to thicken round the sides of the vessel beat with the
+egg-beater till foamy. You have now a vessel of whipped custard and one
+of whipped cream, both cold; now mix the cream into the custard, a
+little at a time, giving the spoon a light upward movement; _do not stir
+it_; that deadens the cream; your object is to keep it light; when all
+is mixed, fill the frame of cake with the spongy mixture; decorate it
+either with drops and pipings of the mixture applied to the smooth
+surface, or with candied fruits cut into forms or various colored
+jellies.
+
+Of course a charlotte russe can be varied in many ways. It may be filled
+with the custard made with chocolate, and so be brown charlotte, or the
+filling may have apricot or currant jelly whipped into it with the
+gelatine; this is an admirable change.
+
+_Almond Turban._--Make half a pound of fine puff-paste, give it nine
+turns, roll it the last time to the thickness of a dollar; have ready
+half a pound of almonds, blanched and chopped; put them in a bowl with
+half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, adding a very
+little more if the icing is too stiff to spread; spread the almond icing
+on the pastry as thick as a twenty-five-cent piece; with a sharp knife
+cut the pastry into strips two and a half inches long and one in
+breadth; bake these in a moderate oven a very pale brown; make a circle
+on a dish of some _firm_ marmalade or jam; when the almond cakes are
+cold, dress them in a crown on the jam, which serves to keep them in
+place; fill the centre of the turban with vanilla ice-cream or simple
+whipped cream.
+
+_Fine Small Cakes for Dessert._--It may not be worth the while of a busy
+housekeeper within reach of a first-class confectioner's to make these,
+because, although when of fine quality they are always expensive, yet
+they are also tedious to make. Many, however, live in country towns,
+where there is no possibility of obtaining anything better than the
+sandy products of the country bakery.
+
+A few really fine cakes can be made at a time, and kept in an air-tight
+box, with layers of paper between, for some time. In speaking, however,
+of the tediousness I would not discourage the reader, for there are few
+more tedious things in cooking than the rolling out, making, and baking
+of thin cookies or ginger-snaps, and the result attained so inadequate.
+
+_Rout Biscuits._--Boil a pound of sugar in half a pint of milk; grate
+into it the rind of a lemon when cold; rub half a pound of butter into a
+pound and a half of flour and a pound of almond paste grated fine; put
+as much carbonate of soda as would lie on a silver dime into the milk,
+and mix with the flour and almond paste; beat two eggs, and make the
+whole into a firm, smooth paste; print this paste with very small
+butter moulds if you have them, making little cakes just like the tiny
+pats of butter one gets at city restaurants. Bake on a well-buttered pan
+in a quick oven a very pale yellow.
+
+_Macaroons._--These must be exempted from the charge of being tedious,
+they are so easily and quickly made. One pound of almond paste grated,
+one pound and a half of sugar, and the whites of seven eggs. Some
+confectioners use a teaspoonful of flour, with the idea that the
+macaroons are not so apt to fall. I recommend a trial of both methods;
+they will both be good. Stir the sugar and the beaten white of eggs
+together just enough to mix, then by degrees add the grated paste,
+mashing with the back of a fork till it forms a perfectly smooth paste.
+Oil several sheets of paper cut to the size of your baking-pans.
+Dripping-pans may be used if you have no regular baking-sheets. Lay a
+sheet of paper at the bottom of the pan. Put half a teaspoonful of the
+macaroon paste on a scrap of buttered paper in the oven. If it spreads
+too much it requires a very little more sugar; if it does not spread at
+all, or so little as to leave the surface rough, it is too stiff, and
+requires perhaps _half_ the white of an egg, or the finger dipped in
+water and laid on each macaroon after they are on the paper is often
+sufficient--a little practice is all that is necessary. Lay the paste in
+half-teaspoonfuls on the oiled or greased paper. If the trial one
+indicated that they were slightly too stiff, lay a wet finger on each,
+sift powdered sugar over, and then put a pinch of chopped and blanched
+almonds in the centre with just enough pressure to keep them in place.
+As the macaroon spreads in the oven the almonds scatter themselves.
+
+Macaroons should be baked _about_ twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
+They must be taken out while they are a very pale brown, but they must
+also be quite "set," or they will fall. If the oven is too quick they
+will brown too soon; in that case leave the oven door open, taking care
+that no cold draught can blow on the macaroons. You can tell if they
+have browned too quickly by the cracks in them being still white and
+sticky. When done both the cracks and surface should be the same pale
+color. The macaroons must be left five minutes in the pan after leaving
+the oven without being touched. At the end of that time they may be
+gently taken off the pans _on the papers_, from which they must not be
+detached until they are quite cold. Should they stick to the paper,
+moisten the back of it.
+
+_Fine Ginger Dessert Cakes._--Rub half a pound of fresh butter into
+three quarters of a pound of flour; beat three eggs with three quarters
+of a pound of powdered sugar and half a glass of rosewater, the grated
+peel of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of the best powdered ginger--use the
+ginger carefully, trying a level spoonful first. Then mix all into a
+paste. If the flavor of ginger is not strong enough, add more; they
+should taste well of it, without being hot in the mouth. Roll the paste
+a quarter of an inch thick, and cut into small oval or round cakes, sift
+powdered sugar over them, and bake rather slowly a very pale brown.
+
+
+
+
+XXXII.
+
+FINE CAKES AND SAUCES.
+
+
+_Madeleines._--Four ounces of butter, four ounces of the best flour,
+three ounces of sugar, a teaspoonful of orange-flower water, the yolks
+of four eggs, and rind of a lemon. Beat butter, sugar, and yolks of eggs
+together, then add the other ingredients; grate in the rind of half a
+lemon, and add the well-beaten whites of eggs last of all. Fill little
+moulds that have been buttered with washed butter, cover the tops with
+split almonds and sifted sugar; bake from thirty to forty minutes in a
+moderate oven. These cakes are sometimes served hot with apricot sauce.
+
+_Chestnut Croquettes._--Boil fifty sound chestnuts; take them out of the
+shells; reject all imperfect ones; keep the large pieces aside; pound
+the crumbs and most broken pieces with an ounce of butter till very
+smooth; then mix in a _small_ cup of cream two ounces of butter and one
+ounce of powdered sugar; put the whole into a double boiler, and stir in
+the beaten yolks of six eggs. Let the mixture set. When cool, make it
+into balls; in the centre of each ball put a piece of the chestnut you
+have laid aside, dip the balls in fine cracker meal and eggs, and fry a
+very pale yellow. Serve with sifted sugar.
+
+Very pretty cakes, very easily made, which come under the French term
+_petits fours_, may be given here.
+
+_Petits Fours._--Make rich cake mixture thus: Wash three quarters of a
+pound of butter to free it from excess of salt; squeeze it dry in a
+cloth; beat it with the hand till creamy; add three quarters of a pound
+of powdered sugar; beat till light; then beat in ten eggs, one by one,
+and sift in a pound of dried and sifted flour. When all are well beaten
+together, the paste or batter is ready for use. Line some shallow pans
+(those used for making rolled jelly-cake are best) with buttered paper;
+spread a layer of the mixture just as you would for jelly-cake, but much
+thicker, as when baked the sheets should not be more than the third of
+an inch thick. Bake slowly. When done, remove from the oven, but leave
+the cake undisturbed till cold. If the sheets are large, they may be cut
+exactly in half, spread thinly with some stiff marmalade or jelly;
+quince or apricot is best, but any rich flavor with some tartness will
+do; lay one half on the other, and press closely and very neatly
+together. Do each sheet of cake in the same way, varying the marmalade
+if you choose. Have ready a bowl of icing (either boiled French icing or
+what is called royal icing). Dust the top of the cakes with flour, which
+must be brushed off again, as it is only to absorb the grease. Flavor
+the icing with vanilla, and lay it on the centre of the cake; let it run
+over it, aiding with a knife dipped in water (shaking off the drops,
+however). The icing needs to be very neatly done, and must not be
+thicker than a twenty-five-cent piece. Now color the icing in the bowl
+pink, with a little cochineal, add a drop or two of extract of bitter
+almond or of lemon, either of which will agree with the vanilla that was
+in the white icing; then ice another sheet of cake in the same way; a
+third may be done with chocolate icing.
+
+The beauty of these cakes will depend on the way they are cut. You may
+choose to make them tablets an inch wide and three inches long, or in
+lozenge shape--the true diamond--but in either case the cutting must be
+exact. The best way to have it so is to mark the lines very lightly with
+the point of a penknife on the icing, using a measure. Trim off the edge
+of the cake with a sharp knife, so that it is neat all round, no excess
+of marmalade oozing out, or tears of icing running down. Then warm a
+sharp carving-knife (I am supposing the cake is on a board), and cut
+through the lines you have marked, without hesitation, so that there
+may be no crumbs or roughness, which slow, over-careful cutting causes.
+When cut up you should have, if neatly done, an assortment of very
+delicious and ornamental cakes.
+
+
+FRENCH SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS, ETC.
+
+_Sauce Madère à la Marmalade._--A half-pound of apricot marmalade; half
+a tumbler of Madeira or sherry; boil three minutes, then pass through a
+sieve, and serve as sauce to soufflées, cabinet puddings, etc.
+
+_Sauce des Oeufs au Kirsch._--Beat the yolks of eight eggs, put them
+in a saucepan with half a tumbler of kirsch, five ounces of powdered
+sugar, and half the rind of a lemon grated. Stir all in a double boiler
+till the mixture sticks to the spoon; then remove from the boiling
+water; stir for a minute to prevent curdling; then it is ready to serve.
+
+_Chaudeau Sauce._--Take two whole eggs, six yolks of eggs, and eight
+lumps of sugar (each one rubbed on lemon-peel), two pints of Chablis,
+and the juice of half a lemon; beat them over a slow fire in a double
+boiler till a light froth is formed; be very careful the eggs do not
+curdle when the boiling-point is reached; take the sauce off the fire,
+and continue beating for a minute or two. If small streaks appear on the
+froth the sauce is done. Stir in a tablespoonful of fine rum, and the
+sauce is ready to serve.
+
+_Sherry Sauce for Puddings._--Six yolks of eggs, one ounce of sugar,
+half a pint of sherry, and the thin peel of a lemon. Beat the eggs with
+the sugar; when the wine is warm, stir them into it (let the lemon-peel
+steep in the wine while warming); stir all together till as thick as
+cream; then remove from the fire, and take out the peel. In making all
+these sauces with eggs the same precaution is required as in making
+custard.
+
+_Wine Sauce_, No. 2.--Three gills of water, one cup of sugar, one
+teaspoonful of corn-starch, and one gill of wine. Mix the corn-starch
+with a little water; pour the rest boiling to it, stirring till smooth;
+then add the sugar, and boil for five minutes; then add the wine and a
+few drops of essence of lemon and the same of cinnamon. Use these
+flavorings drop by drop, as they differ in strength too much for an
+exact quantity to be given, and the taste must be the guide. Rum or
+brandy may be used instead of wine; then the cinnamon is omitted.
+
+_Apricot Sauces._--Half a small jar of apricot jam or marmalade;
+dissolve it in three quarters of a gill of water with the juice of a
+lemon; stir in three quarters of a gill of rum. This sauce is simply
+made hot, not boiled, and may be served cold with Baba or Savarin cake.
+Greengage marmalade may be substituted.
+
+_Whipped Sweet Sauce._--Put the yolks of four eggs into a double
+saucepan with two ounces of sugar, one glass of sherry, the juice of one
+lemon, and a speck of salt; beat all together; then set the saucepan
+over the fire, and whisk the sauce till it is a creamy froth, when it
+is ready to serve.
+
+_Very Fine Sweet Butter Sauce._--Wash four ounces of butter; squeeze it
+dry; beat it to a hard sauce with half a pound of powdered sugar; then
+put the yolks of two eggs in a cold bowl; stir it a minute, then add to
+it a little of the hard sauce; when well mixed add more, about a
+teaspoonful at a time; when the hard sauce is blended with the yolks of
+eggs, stir in by degrees a wineglass of brandy or rum. Keep on ice till
+wanted.
+
+_Vanilla Cream Sauce._--Put half a pint of fresh cream to boil,
+reserving a tablespoonful; mix this with a teaspoonful of flour; stir it
+into the cream, with a tablespoonful of sugar, when near boiling; when
+it boils, stir for five minutes or ten in a double boiler; then pour out
+the sauce, and stir in a small teaspoonful of vanilla and a few drops of
+extract of rose or a teaspoonful of rose-water. Observe that the rose is
+used to give a different tone to the vanilla, and not to impart its own
+flavor, therefore very little must be used.
+
+_Almond Sauce._--Dissolve four ounces of almond paste in half a pint of
+sweet cream by stirring in a double boiler (the almond paste should be
+grated first); when both are hot, add a tablespoonful of sugar and the
+yolk of an egg; stir till the egg thickens, then remove from the fire
+and serve.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIII.
+
+SALADS AND CHEESE DISHES.
+
+
+Salad has come to form part of even the simplest dinners; and certainly
+cold meat and salad and excellent bread and butter make a meal by no
+means to be despised even by an epicure, while cold meat and bread and
+butter sound very untempting. The best dinner salad will perhaps always
+be white, crisp lettuce, with a simple French dressing, although, to
+those acquainted with it, escarole runs it hard, with its cool, watery
+ribs and crisp leaves. Elaborate salads, or those dressed with
+mayonnaise, are too heavy to form the latter part of an already
+sufficiently nourishing meal, but for luncheons and suppers the rich
+salad is invaluable.
+
+Salad which is to be eaten with game or to form a course at dinner may
+be a crisp white cabbage lettuce, water-cress, Romaine lettuce, or that
+most delicious form of endive, escarole.
+
+The dressing should be the simple French dressing, about which so much
+has been written and said, and which is so easy that perhaps it is one
+reason why so few make it well. There is nothing to remember beyond the
+proportions, and so many keep the quantity of oil, vinegar, and pepper
+and salt in mind, but the manner of using them seems of no consequence;
+but it is of so much consequence, if you do not want the vinegar on the
+leaves and the oil at the bottom of the salad bowl, that, well known as
+the formula is, I am going over it again with a few details that may
+help to fix the matter in mind.
+
+In the first place it must be remembered that a wet leaf will repel oil,
+therefore the lettuce or other salad must be well dried before it is
+sent to table. This is best done by swinging it in a salad basket, and
+then spreading it between two cloths for a few minutes. Now it must be
+quite evident, if a leaf wet with water will refuse to retain oil, that
+one wet with vinegar will do the same; for this reason the leaves should
+be covered with oil _before_ the vinegar is added, or the salad will be
+crude and very unlike what it should be if properly mixed in the
+following way:
+
+Take lettuce as the example, although any of those mentioned are made in
+the same way. Have the lettuce dry in the salad bowl, put in the
+salad-spoon a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, and,
+holding it over the bowl, fill the spoon with oil; mix the salt and
+pepper well with it, and turn it over the salad; toss the salad lightly
+over and over till the leaves glisten, then add two (if for epicures,
+three or four) more spoonfuls of oil, then toss again over and over till
+every leaf is well coated with oil; then sprinkle in a saladspoonful of
+sharp vinegar. Toss again, and the salad is ready.
+
+One salad less well known than it deserves to be is that made from the
+grape fruit. This is an especially grateful dish for spring breakfast,
+when cool, refreshing things are in order. Many tell me they have tried
+to eat grape fruit, but find it quite impossible on account of the
+intense bitter.
+
+There is a very _slight_ and pleasant bitter with grape fruit when
+properly prepared, but if by carelessness or ignorance even a small
+portion of the pith is left in it intense bitter is imparted to the
+whole.
+
+_Grape-fruit Salad._--Prepare the fruit, some hours before it is wanted,
+in the following way: Cut the fruit in four as you would an orange;
+separate the sections; then remove the pulp from each, taking care that
+no white pith or skin adheres to it. Put the pulp on the ice until just
+before serving; then dress with oil and vinegar exactly as directed for
+lettuce, etc.
+
+Meat or fish salads should always be dressed with mayonnaise. I say
+nothing of the well-known lobster and chicken salads, which are so
+general that one is tempted to think the majority of people do not know
+how excellent some other combination salads are. Salmon salad--the fish
+flaked, laid on a bed of crisp lettuce with a border of the leaves, and
+masked with mayonnaise, with a garnish of aspic--is both handsome and
+delicious; but cold halibut, or even cod--any firm fish that flakes, in
+fact--make delightful salads, and acceptable to many who cannot eat
+lobster. In the way of meat salads, partridge or grouse are far daintier
+than chicken, prepared in just the same way. There is one point,
+however, which should be observed in making all meat salads: it is that
+the material should be well dressed with oil, vinegar, and condiments
+before the mayonnaise is put on. Usually one of two courses is followed:
+either the meat is left dry, the mayonnaise being supposed sufficient,
+or it is dressed with mayonnaise and then masked with it. In the latter
+case the salad is far too rich; in the former it is flat, because
+mayonnaise, if rightly made, has not acidity enough to flavor the meat;
+therefore it and the celery or other salad mixed with it should be
+bathed with French dressing before it is masked.
+
+With these general rules any salad may be made; but as variety is the
+spice of the table, it may be borne in mind that in spring a sprig of
+mint, very finely chopped, gives a fragrance to lettuce, as does chervil
+or borage, parsley, or a tiny bit of onion. To a game salad nothing
+should be added.
+
+No recipe is needed for mayonnaise, it having been given in the chapter
+on cold sauces.
+
+In the course of these chapters several cheese dishes have been given,
+but there are a few others especially appropriate to the cheese and
+salad course, where it constitutes part of the dinner, which I will
+include. Cheese dishes are far less popular in this country than in
+Europe, but there are families whose masculine members eat no sweets,
+and for whom a dainty cheese dish would be very acceptable.
+
+_Genoa Ramaquin._--Cut a slice of Vienna or other baker's bread, half an
+inch thick, lengthwise of the loaf, so that it covers the bottom of a
+fire-proof dish--a soufflé pan well buttered is excellent; beat two eggs
+and half a pint of milk together; add a level saltspoonful of salt; pour
+this custard over the bread, and leave it an hour to soak. Pour off any
+custard that may not be absorbed; dust the bread with pepper; then cover
+with the following mixture: dissolve as much rich cheese shaved in half
+a gill of cream as will cover the bread an inch thick, stirring it over
+a slow fire. Season with pepper and salt, and pour the cheese over the
+bread. Put it in the oven, and bake for half an hour, or till quite
+brown.
+
+_Cheese Puffs._--Line patty-pans with puff-paste, and fill three parts
+full with the following mixture: put a gill of cream in a double boiler
+with two ounces of grated cheese (half Parmesan if liked), a
+saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, a pinch of sugar, and a large
+teaspoonful of butter; when all is melted to a thick custard, break into
+it two eggs well whipped. The mixture is only to be made hot enough to
+melt the cheese, not to boil.
+
+_Cheese Sticks._--Take a piece of light bread dough about the size of a
+teacup, roll it out on a pastry-board, spread it with bits of firm
+butter, dredge with flour, fold and roll, repeat until you have rolled
+in two ounces of butter, just as for puff-paste; now roll the pastry out
+the third of an inch thick, cut into strips half an inch wide and any
+length you think proper, lay them very straight on a baking-sheet, and
+bake slowly a _very_ light brown; remove from the oven, let them cool,
+then brush them over with white of egg, and roll them thickly in grated
+Parmesan; return for a minute or two to the oven. These are very good
+with salad, but cannot easily be made in warm weather. Should the
+pastry get too soft while rolling, put it on ice, and it is better to
+do so at all times before cutting into strips, so that the "sticks" may
+be quite straight.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+  Allemande Sauce, 18.
+
+  Almond Cream, 229, 251;
+    Sauce, 299;
+    Trifles, 279;
+    Turban, 285;
+    Water-ice, 255.
+
+  Apple Jelly, 212;
+    Compote, 263-265.
+
+  Apricot Sauces, 297;
+    Water-ices, 256.
+
+  Artichokes, Fried, 198.
+
+  Aspic, Jelly, 195;
+    Lobster in, 79;
+    Mayonnaise, 47;
+    Oysters in, 76;
+    Reed-birds in, 159.
+
+
+  Ballotines, 177.
+
+  Béarnaise Sauce, 26.
+
+  Béchamel Sauce, 17, 159.
+
+  Beef, Fillets of, 86-89.
+
+  Beet-root Fritters, 198.
+
+  Birds, how to bone, 172-175;
+    how to stuff, 175.
+
+  Biscuits, Rout, 286.
+
+  Bouchées, 124.
+
+  Bouquet of herbs, 37.
+
+
+  Cabinet Pudding, 233, 239.
+
+  Cakes, Dessert, 285, 289.
+
+  Cakes and Sauces, fine, 291-295.
+    Chestnut Croquettes, 291.
+    Madeleines, 291.
+    Petits Fours, 292.
+
+  Candied Orange and Lemon Peels, 260, 261.
+
+  Caper Sauce, 29.
+
+  Cardinal Sauce, 30.
+
+  Cauliflower Fritters, 198.
+
+  Celery Sauce, 29.
+
+  Charlotte Russe, 281-283.
+
+  Châteaubriand Sauce, 34.
+
+  Chaudfroid Sauce, 160.
+
+  Chaudfroids. (See Entrées.)
+
+  Cheese Dishes, 306-308.
+    Genoa Ramaquin, 306.
+    Puffs, 306.
+    Sticks, 307.
+
+  Chestnut Soup, 57;
+    Croquettes, 291.
+
+  Chicken, à la Hollandaise, 114.
+    And Ham Cutlets, 157.
+    Chaudfroids of, 156.
+    Fritot of, 132.
+    Patties, 121.
+    Salad, 154.
+    Scallops, 130.
+    Tartlettes, 114.
+    Timbale of, 129.
+    Turtle fashion, 136.
+
+  Chocolate Cream Pudding, 245.
+
+  Choice Cookery explained, 1-3.
+
+  Chops, Lamb and Mutton, 98-103.
+
+  Cigarettes, 108, 135, 136.
+
+  Cinnamon, care in selecting, 216;
+    Water-ice, 255.
+
+  Claret Granito, 258;
+    Jelly, 215.
+
+  Cod, Fillets of, 62.
+
+  Cold Game Pies, 183-190.
+
+  Compote of Apples, 263-265;
+    of Cherries, 272;
+    of Chestnuts, 269, 270;
+    of Oranges, 269;
+    of Pears, 266, 268;
+    of Pigeons, 145;
+    of Strawberries, 272.
+
+  Consommé, 51-55.
+
+  Coquilles, 63, 64.
+
+  Creams, 223-230, 235-237.
+    Almond Cream, 229.
+    Bohemian Jelly Creams, 237.
+    Cocoanut Cream, 235.
+    Coffee Cream, 226.
+    Curaçoa Cream, 226.
+    Ginger Cream, 224.
+    Hazel-nut Cream, 236.
+    Here and in Europe, 223.
+    Neapolitan Cream, 224.
+    Nut Creams, 235.
+    Pistache Cream, 229.
+    Strawberry Cream, 227.
+    Vanilla Cream, 227.
+    Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream, 237.
+    Whipped Cream, 213, 214.
+
+  Croquettes, Chestnut, 291;
+    manner of preparing, 107.
+
+  Cucumber, Fillets of, 99;
+    Fillets of Rabbit with, 150;
+    Sauce, 29, 48;
+    Stuffed, 199.
+
+  Culinary matters, 79-85.
+
+  Curaçoa, 258.
+
+  Currant Water-ice, 256.
+
+  Currants, how to cook, 271.
+
+  Cutlets, how to prepare, 107.
+    Chicken and Ham, 157.
+    Lamb, 99, 100.
+    Mutton, 90, 98.
+    Pigeon, 143.
+    Russian Salad for, 101.
+    Sweetbread, 109.
+    Veal, 139.
+
+
+  Decorations, uneatable, 196.
+
+  Dessert, Small Cakes for, 285.
+
+  Downton Sauce, 39.
+
+  Dresden Patty Cases, 118.
+
+
+  Entrées, 86-106, 129-152, 153-171.
+    A Civet, 150.
+    Baked Ravioli, 137.
+    Cold Lamb Cutlets in Mint Jelly, 100.
+    Chicken Soufflé, 131.
+    Chicken, Turtle fashion, 136.
+    Cigarettes à la Chasseur, 135.
+    Cigarettes à la Reine, 134.
+    Cutlets Chaudfroid à la Russe, 102.
+    Filets de Boeuf à la Béarnaise, 87.
+    Filets de Boeuf aux Champignons, 87.
+    Fillet of Beef, 86.
+    Fillets of Beef à la Grande-Bretagne, 89.
+    Fillets of Cucumber, 99.
+    Fillets of Rabbit with Cucumber, 150.
+    Fillets of Teal with Anchovies, 148.
+    Fritot of Chicken, 132.
+    Grenadines of Beef with Mushrooms and Poivrade Sauce, 88.
+    Grenadines of Rabbit à la Soubise, 149.
+    Lamb Cutlets en Concombre, 99.
+    Lamb Cutlets with a Purée of Mushrooms, 100.
+    Lobster Quenelles, 136.
+    Mutton Cutlets à la d'Uxelles, 90.
+    Mutton Cutlets à la Milanais, 90.
+    Mutton Cutlets, or Chops, 98.
+    Pigeon Cutlets, 143.
+    Pigeons à la Tartare, 144.
+    Quails à la Jubilee, 141.
+    Quails à la Lucullus, 140.
+    Salmis of Snipe, 147.
+    Scallops of Chicken à la Périgord, 130.
+    Soufflé of Partridges, 146.
+    Sweetbreads à la Suprême, 103.
+    Sweetbreads in Cases, 106.
+    Sweetbreads with Oysters, 104.
+    Timbale of Chicken à la Champenois, 129.
+    Timbales d'Épinard, 151.
+    Veal Cutlets à la Primrose, 139.
+
+  Entrées, Cold, or Chaudfroids, 153-171.
+    Allumettes, 170.
+    Canapés à la Bismarck, 165.
+    Caviare Canapés, 166.
+    Chaudfroid of Reed-birds, 160.
+    Chaudfroids of Chicken, 156.
+    Cheese Biscuits à la St. James, 168.
+    Chicken and Ham Cutlets, 157.
+    Chicken Salad à la Prince, 154.
+    Cold Cheese Soufflés, 169.
+    Croûtes de Fromage Glacé, 169.
+    Eggs à la St. James, 170.
+    Iced Savory Soufflé, 162.
+    Kluskis of Cream Cheese, 168.
+    Oysters à la St. George, 169.
+    Prawns en Surprise, 166.
+    Prince of Wales Canapés, 167.
+    Reed-birds in Aspic, 159.
+    Savage Club Canapés, 164.
+    Savories, 162-164.
+    Shrimp Canapés, 168.
+    Sweetbread au Montpellier, 153.
+
+  Entrées, Fish, 61-70.
+    Coquilles of Prawns, 63.
+    Coquilles of Salmon or Halibut, 64.
+    Fillet of Flounders, 69.
+    Fillet of Sole à la Normande, 65.
+    Fillets of Cod à la Normande, 62.
+    Lobster in Aspic, 79.
+    Lobster Soufflées, 62.
+    Salmon en Papillotes, 65.
+    Sole à l'Horly, 66.
+    Turbans of Sole à la Rouennaise, 67.
+
+  Espagnole Sauce, 33.
+
+
+  Fillet, how to, 181, 182.
+
+  Fillets of Rabbits, 150.
+
+  Flavorings and Liqueurs, 210-212.
+
+  Flounders, Fillet of, 69.
+
+  Fritters, 198.
+
+  Fruits, Macédoine of, 222.
+
+  Frying, directions for, 91-95.
+
+
+  Galantines, 172-177.
+    Of Breast of Veal, 178.
+    Of Sucking Pig, 179.
+
+  Game Pie, 183.
+    English manner of making, in a crust, 189, 190.
+    Filling the case of, 186.
+    French method of making, 185.
+
+  Game, Salad to eat with, 300.
+
+  Garnishes, 191-198.
+    Colored Custard, 192.
+    Profiterolles, 194.
+    Spinach Juice, 192.
+    Stuffed Artichokes, 197.
+
+  Gelatine, 196;
+    right proportion for jelly, 217.
+
+  Ginger Cream, 224;
+    Dessert Cakes, 289;
+    Water-ice, 253.
+
+  Glaze, 8;
+    how to preserve, 10.
+
+  Graniti, 257, 258.
+    Claret Granito, 258.
+    Sherry Granito, 258.
+    To freeze, 257.
+
+  Grape-fruit Salad, 303.
+
+  Grenadines of Rabbit, 149.
+
+
+  Ham, Purée of, 152.
+
+  Herbs, French, 12;
+    how to chop, 81;
+    what required, 12.
+
+  Horseradish Sauce, 48.
+
+
+  Ice-creams and Ices, 246-256.
+    Almond Water-ice, 255.
+    Apricot Water-ice, 256.
+    Chinese Ice, 252.
+    Cinnamon Water-ice, 255.
+    Currant Water-ice, 256.
+    Custard for Ice-cream, 249.
+    Fruit Jam and Jellies with Ice-cream, 250.
+    Ginger Water-ice, 253.
+    Grilled Almond Ice-cream, 251.
+    Ice-cream with Eggs, 249.
+    Pineapple Water-ice, 254.
+    Pistachio Water-ice, 255.
+    Simplest Fruit Ice-cream, 246.
+    Tea Ice-cream, 252.
+    Tutti-frutti Ice-cream, 248.
+
+  Ice Pudding, 240, 241.
+
+  Iced Custard with Fruit, 244.
+
+  Iced Puddings, 238, 239, 241, 243.
+
+
+  Jellies, 208-225.
+    Aspic Jelly, 195.
+    Consistency of Jelly, 214.
+    Jellied Raspberries, 221.
+    Jelly with Candied Fruits, 220.
+    Jelly with Fresh Fruits, 218.
+    Mint Jelly, 49.
+    Mould of Apple Jelly, 212.
+    Plain Claret Jelly, 215.
+    Right proportions of Gelatine for Jelly, 217.
+    Roman Punch Jellies, 222.
+
+
+  Kabobs, Oyster, 72-74.
+
+  Kromeskies, 107.
+
+
+  Lamb Cutlets, 99, 100.
+
+  Lemon Baskets, 274;
+    Peels, Candied, 261.
+
+  Lemons, how to grate, 82.
+
+  Liqueurs and Flavorings, 210-212.
+
+  Lobster, in Aspic, 79;
+    Quenelles, 136;
+    Sauce, 29;
+    Soufflées, 62.
+
+
+  Macaroons, 287.
+
+  Macédoine of Fruits, 222.
+
+  Madeleines, 291.
+
+  Maraschino, 259.
+
+  Matelote Sauce, 40.
+
+  Mayonnaise, 43, 46, 47.
+
+  Meal, quantity to be used, 75.
+
+  Méringue Paste, 251.
+
+  Mint Jelly, 49.
+
+  Mother Sauces, 6.
+
+  Mushroom Baskets, 201.
+
+  Mushroom Jelly, 200.
+
+  Mushrooms and Tomatoes, 200.
+
+  Mushrooms, Stuffed, 200.
+
+  Mutton Cutlets, 90, 98.
+
+
+  Neapolitan Cream, 224.
+
+  Norwegian Sauce, 47.
+
+  Nut Creams, 229, 235-237.
+
+
+  Onion, Spanish, 202-204.
+
+  Orange Baskets, 272, 274.
+
+  Orange Compote, 209.
+
+  Orange Sauce, 39.
+
+  Oyster Kabobs, 72, 74;
+    Sauce, 29.
+
+  Oysters, 71-78.
+    À la Tartare, 78.
+    À la Villeroi, 71.
+    In Aspic, 76.
+    Various ways of serving, 71-78.
+
+
+  Papillotes, 65.
+
+  Parsley Sauce, 29.
+
+  Partridges, Soufflé of, 146.
+
+  Patties, 116-124.
+    Chicken, 121.
+    Dresden Cases for, 118.
+    Oyster, 121.
+    Sweetbread, 120.
+
+  Pears, à la Princesse, 267;
+    Compote of, 265, 266, 268.
+
+  Petits Fours, 292.
+
+  Pies, Game, 183-190.
+
+  Pigeon Cutlets, 143.
+
+  Pigeons, à la Tartare, 144;
+    Compote of, 145.
+
+  Pineapple Water-ice, 254.
+
+  Piquante Sauce, 35.
+
+  Pistache Cream, 229.
+
+  Pistachio Water-ice, 255.
+
+  Poivrade Sauce, 36.
+
+  Potage, à la Hollandaise, 56;
+    à la Royale, 59.
+
+  Potatoes, à la Provençale, 204;
+    Milanese, 205;
+    Scalloped, 205.
+
+  Poulette Sauce, 20.
+
+  Prawns, Coquilles of, 63.
+
+  Princess Soup, 58.
+
+  Profiterolles, 194.
+
+  Puddings, 230-234, 238-246.
+    Bombay Ice Pudding, 241.
+    Chocolate Cream Pudding, 245.
+    Cold Cabinet Pudding, 233.
+    Cold Soufflé Pudding, 231.
+    Diplomatic Pudding, 232.
+    Filbert and Wine Iced Pudding, 243.
+    Frangipanni Iced Pudding, 238.
+    Frozen Pudding, 235.
+    Ice Pudding, 240.
+    Iced Cabinet Pudding, 239.
+    Iced Custard with Fruit, 244.
+    Iced Jelly Pudding, 241.
+    Iced Puddings, 243.
+    Imperial Rice Pudding, 231.
+    Jubilee Pudding, 230.
+    Rice à la Princesse, 245.
+    Sauces for, 295-299.
+
+  Puffs, Cheese, 306.
+
+  Purée of Ham, 152.
+
+
+  Quenelles for entrées, 125-129;
+    for soups, 53, 54.
+
+
+  Rabbit, Grenadines of, 149;
+    Fillets of, 150.
+
+  Rabbits, 148.
+
+  Raspberries, how to cook, 271;
+    Jellied, 221.
+
+  Ratafia, 259.
+
+  Ravioli, Baked, 137.
+
+  Red Mayonnaise, 46.
+
+  Reed-birds, Chaudfroids of, 160;
+    in Aspic, 159.
+
+  Rice Pudding, 231.
+
+  Rissoles, 108.
+
+  Robert Sauce, 38.
+
+  Roman Punch Jellies, 222.
+
+  Rout Biscuits, 286.
+
+  Russian Salad for Cutlets, 101.
+
+
+  Salads, 300-305.
+    Best dinner, 300.
+    For Cutlets, 100.
+    Grape-fruit, 303.
+    How to dress, 301, 302.
+    To eat with game, 300.
+
+  Salmis of Snipe, 147.
+
+  Salmon, Coquilles of, 64;
+    en Papillotes, 65.
+
+  Sauces, 11-22; 23-32; 33-41; 42-50.
+    À la d'Uxelles, 20.
+    À la Normande, 38.
+    Allemande, 18.
+    Almond, 299.
+    Apricot, 297.
+    Aspic Mayonnaise, 47.
+    Béarnaise, 26.
+    Béchamel, 17, 159.
+    Blonde, or White, 13-32.
+    Bordelaise, 37.
+    Brown, 33-41.
+    Caper, 29.
+    Cardinal, 30.
+    Celery, 29.
+    Châteaubriand, 34.
+    Chaudfroid, 160, 161.
+    Cold Cucumber, 48.
+    Cold Sauces, 42-50.
+    Consistency of, 24, 105.
+    Cucumber, 29.
+    Des Oeufs au Kirsch, 295.
+    Downton, 39.
+    Espagnole, 33.
+    Green Mayonnaise, 46.
+    Hollandaise, 30.
+    Horseradish, 48.
+    How to stir, 17.
+    Light Normande, 39.
+    Lobster, 29.
+    Madère à la Marmalade, 295.
+    Matelote, 40.
+    Mayonnaise, 43, 46, 47.
+    Mint, 49.
+    Mother Sauces, 6.
+    Norwegian, 47.
+    Orange, 39.
+    Oyster, 29.
+    Parsley, 29.
+    Piquante, 35.
+    Poivrade, 36.
+    Poulette, 20.
+    Red Mayonnaise, 46.
+    Robert, 38.
+    Rule for seasoning, 18.
+    Sherry, 296.
+    Shrimp, 29, 30.
+    Soubise, 27.
+    Ste. Ménehould, 25.
+    Suprême, 23.
+    Sweet Butter, very fine, 298.
+    Sweet, French, for Puddings, 295-299.
+    Tartare, 48.
+    Vanilla Cream, 298.
+    Velouté, or White, 14.
+    Villeroi, 21.
+    Wine, 296.
+    Whipped Sweet, 297.
+    White, 23-32.
+
+  Sautéing, 95, 96.
+
+  Scalloped Potatoes, 205.
+
+  Scallops of Chicken, 130.
+
+  Sherry Granito, 258;
+    Sauce, 296.
+
+  Shrimp Sauce, 29, 30.
+
+  Sole, à l'Horly, 66;
+    à la Normande, 65;
+    Rouennaise, 67.
+
+  Soubise Sauce, 27;
+    with Grenadines of Rabbit, 149.
+
+  Soufflé of Chicken, 131;
+    of Lobster, 62;
+    of Partridges, 146;
+    of Tomato, 206.
+
+  Soups, 51-60.
+    Chestnut, 57.
+    Consommé à la Rachel, 52.
+    Consommé à la Sévigné, 55.
+    Potage à la Hollandaise, 56.
+    Potage à la Royale, 59.
+    Princess, 58.
+    To clear Consommé, 51.
+
+  Spanish Onion, 204.
+
+  Spices and herbs required, 12.
+
+  Spinach Fritters, 206;
+    Juice, 192.
+
+  Ste. Ménehould Sauce, 25.
+
+  Stock, 7;
+    to reduce to Glaze, 8.
+
+  Strawberries, how to cook, 271;
+    Compote of, 272.
+
+  Strawberry Cream, 227.
+
+  Stuffed Artichokes, 197;
+    Cucumbers, 199.
+
+  Sucking Pig, Ballotines of, 179.
+
+  Suprême Sauce, 23.
+
+  Sweet Sauce for Puddings, 295-299.
+
+  Sweetbreads à la Suprême, 103;
+    au Montpellier, 153;
+    braised, 113;
+    Cutlets of, 109;
+    in Cases, 106;
+    Patties, 120;
+    with Oysters, 104.
+
+  Sweets, 262-280.
+    Almond Trifles, 279.
+    Almond Turban, 285.
+    Charlotte Russe with Gelatine, 283.
+    Compote of Apple Marmalade, 265.
+    Compote of Apples or Pears Grillé, 265.
+    Compote of Cherries, 272.
+    Compote of Oranges, 269.
+    Compote of Pears, 266.
+    Compote of Strawberries, 272.
+    Compote of Stuffed Apples, 264.
+    Compotes of Apple, 263, 264.
+    Compotes of Chestnuts, 269, 270.
+    Fine Small Dessert Cakes, 285.
+    Ginger Dessert Cakes, 289.
+    Lemon Baskets, 274.
+    Little China Dishes, 278.
+    Macaroons, 287.
+    Orange Baskets filled with fruit, 272.
+    Orange Basket Glacé, 274.
+    Pears à la Princesse, 267.
+    Pink Compote, 267.
+    Raspberry Charlotte Russe, 281.
+    Rout Biscuits, 285.
+    Swiss Vacherin, 276.
+    Variegated Compote of Pears, 268.
+
+
+  Tartare Sauce, 48.
+
+  Teal with Anchovies, 148.
+
+  Timbale of Chicken, 129.
+
+  Timbales d'Épinard, 151.
+
+  Tomato Jelly, 205;
+    Soufflé, 206.
+
+  Tomatoes and Mushrooms, 200.
+
+  Trifles, Almond, 279.
+
+  Turban, Almond, 285.
+
+  Turbans of Sole, 67.
+
+
+  Uneatable decorations, 196.
+
+
+  Vacherin, Swiss, 276.
+
+  Vanilla Cream, 227;
+    Cream Sauce, 298.
+
+  Variegated Compote of Pears, 268.
+
+  Veal Cutlets à la Primrose, 139.
+
+  Vegetables, 197-207.
+    A few ways of cooking, 197.
+    Beet-root Fritters, 198.
+    Cauliflower Fritters, 198.
+    Fried Artichokes, 198.
+    Milanese Potatoes, 205.
+    Mushroom Baskets, 201.
+    Mushroom Jelly, 200.
+    Mushrooms and Tomatoes, 200.
+    Mushrooms stuffed à la Lucullus, 200.
+    Potatoes à la Provençale, 204.
+    Scalloped Potatoes, 205.
+    Spanish or Portuguese Onion, 202, 203.
+    Spinach Fritters, 206.
+    Stuffed Cucumbers, 199.
+    Stuffed Spanish Onion, 204.
+    Tomato Jelly, 205.
+    Tomato Soufflé, 206.
+    Various ways of serving, 199-207.
+
+  Velouté, or White Sauce, 14.
+
+  Villeroi Sauce, 21.
+
+
+  Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream, 237.
+
+  Water-ices, 253-256.
+    Almond, 255.
+    Apricot, 256.
+    Cinnamon, 255.
+    Currant, 256.
+    Ginger, 253.
+    Pineapple, 254.
+    Pistachio, 255.
+
+  Whipped Cream, 213, 214;
+    Sweet Sauces, 297.
+
+  White Sauces, 23-32.
+
+  Wine, Iced Pudding, 243;
+    Sauces, 296.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+MISS CORSON'S FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR.
+
+
+Family Living on $500 a Year. A Daily Reference Book for Young and
+   Inexperienced Housewives. By JULIET CORSON. 16mo, Cloth, $1 25.
+
+If we ever get as much as $500 a year we shall purchase this book and
+live like a prince.... It goes carefully through the expenses of daily
+living, and indicates the thousand and one ways in which a penny can be
+saved and another penny put where it will do most good. A book of this
+kind placed in the hands of those who have very limited means will show
+that they can live very comfortably and have quite enough to eat on a
+very small sum.--_N. Y. Herald._
+
+It is a helpful working book, sensible and practical, and tells how to
+buy, cook, and serve all sorts of food; how to can, pickle, and
+preserve; and how to arrange and serve luncheons, dinners, and teas, all
+in the most economical manner consistent with appetizing
+results.--_Sunday-School Times_, Philadelphia.
+
+Food-economist, cook-book, and instructor in table service all in
+one.... The book is a capital one, and every housekeeper should feel
+grateful to the able and painstaking author.--_N. Y. Post._
+
+The production of a lady who understands her subject thoroughly, and who
+earnestly wishes to help others towards the same useful knowledge.... A
+book of this sort (and Miss Corson is the best able to produce it of any
+one we know) is a great aid, and the more it is circulated the more
+households will be made happy.--_Churchman_, N. Y.
+
+Every house-keeper, whether coming within the scope of the author's
+effort or not, will find many instructive hints, a due regard for which
+will be conducive to the improved physical well-being and increased
+mental serenity of the various members of her household.--_St. Louis
+Republican._
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+--> HARPER & BROTHERS _will send the above work by mail, postage
+prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the
+price._
+
+
+
+
+MRS. SHERWOOD'S MANNERS AND SOCIAL USAGES IN AMERICA.
+
+
+Manners and Social Usages in America. A Book of Etiquette. By Mrs. JOHN
+   SHERWOOD. pp. 448. New and Enlarged Edition, Revised by the Author.
+   16mo, Extra Cloth, $1 25.
+
+Mrs. Sherwood's admirable little volume differs from ordinary works on
+the subject of etiquette, chiefly in the two facts that it is founded on
+its author's personal familiarity with the usages of really good
+society, and that it is inspired by good-sense and a helpful spirit....
+We think Mrs. Sherwood's little book the very best and most sensible one
+of its kind that we ever saw.--_N. Y. Commercial Advertiser._
+
+We have no hesitation in declaring it to be the best work of the kind
+yet published. The author shows a just appreciation of what is
+good-breeding and what is snobbishness.... In happy discriminations the
+excellence of Mrs. Sherwood's book is conspicuous.--_Brooklyn Union._
+
+It is a sensible and pleasantly written volume, which has already won
+recognition as one of the best books of its kind, and this new edition
+is called for by the heartiness with which the public has endorsed the
+work.--_Courier_, Boston.
+
+A sensible, comprehensive book, which has endured criticism
+successfully, and deserves now to be regarded the best book of its kind
+published in this country.... A better guide than Mrs. Sherwood's book
+through the paths of social usages we do not know. The book is a
+handsome one, as it ought to be.--_Christian Intelligencer_, N. Y.
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+--> HARPER & BROTHERS _will send the above work by mail, postage
+prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the
+price._
+
+
+
+
+BOOKS FOR THE HOUSEHOLD.
+
+
+MRS. HENDERSON'S PRACTICAL COOKING. Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving.
+  A Treatise containing Practical Instructions in Cooking; in the
+  Combination and Serving of Dishes, and in the Fashionable modes of
+  Entertaining at Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner. By MARY F. HENDERSON.
+  Illustrated. 12mo, Water-proof Cover, $1 50.
+
+MRS. HENDERSON'S DIET FOR THE SICK. Diet for the Sick. A Treatise on the
+  Values of Foods, their Application to Special Conditions of Health and
+  Disease, and on the Best Methods of their Preparation. By MARY F.
+  HENDERSON. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.
+
+MRS. WASHINGTON'S UNRIVALLED COOKBOOK. The Unrivalled Cook-Book and
+  House-keeper's Guide. By MRS. WASHINGTON. 12mo, Water-proof Cover, $2
+  00.
+
+MRS. SMITH'S VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. Virginia Cookery-Book. By MARY
+  STUART SMITH. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50; 4to, Paper, 25 cents.
+
+BAZAR COOKING RECEIPTS. Cooking Receipts from _Harper's Bazar_. 32mo,
+  Paper, 25 cents; Cloth, 40 cents.
+
+MISS OAKEY'S BEAUTY IN DRESS. Beauty in Dress. By MISS OAKEY. 16mo,
+  Cloth, $1 00.
+
+MRS. DEWING'S (MISS OAKEY) BEAUTY IN THE HOUSEHOLD. Beauty in the
+  Household. By Mrs. T. W. DEWING, Author of "Beauty in Dress."
+  Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00.
+
+COAN'S OUNCES OF PREVENTION. Ounces of Prevention. By TITUS MUNSON COAN,
+  M.D. 12mo, Paper, 25 cents; Cloth, 50 cents.
+
+MRS. CHURCH'S MONEY-MAKING FOR LADIES. Money-Making for Ladies. By ELLA
+  RODMAN CHURCH. 16mo, Cloth, 90 cents.
+
+WALKER'S HINTS TO WOMEN ON THE CARE OF PROPERTY. Hints to Women on the
+  Care of Property. By ALFRED WALKER. 32mo, Paper, 20 cents; Cloth, 35
+  cents.
+
+MISS CORSON'S FAMILY LIVING. Family Living on $500 a Year. A Daily
+  Reference Book for Young and Inexperienced Housewives. By JULIET
+  CORSON. 16mo, Cloth, $1 25.
+
+MRS. HERRICK'S HOUSE-KEEPING MADE EASY. House-keeping Made Easy. By
+  CHRISTINE TERHUNE HERRICK. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00.
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+
+--> HARPER & BROTHERS _will send any of the above works, postage
+prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the
+price._
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+The following typographical errors were corrected.
+
+  Page  Error
+    6   allemande is the same changed to Allemande is the same
+  160   pâte de foie gras changed to pâté de foie gras
+  166   Caviary Canapés changed to Caviare Canapés
+  309   Bearnaise Sauce changed to Béarnaise Sauce
+  309   Tartlets changed to Tartlettes
+  311   Coucombre changed to Concombre
+  311   Puree of Mushrooms changed to Purée of Mushrooms
+  311   à la Milanaise changed to à la Milanais
+  311   à la Perigord changed to à la Périgord
+  312   Ham, Puree of changed to Ham, Purée of
+  313   Macedoine of Fruits changed to Macédoine of Fruits
+  313   Meringue Paste changed to Méringue Paste
+  314   Puree of Ham changed to Purée of Ham
+  314   Bearnaise changed to Béarnaise
+  315   Ste. Menehould changed to Ste. Ménehould
+  Ad 2  pp.448. changed to pp. 448.
+  Ad 3  12mo, Cloth, $1 50 changed to 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.
+
+
+  Inconsistently spelled and hyphenated words
+
+  blond / blonde
+  cocoa-nut / cocoanut
+  house-keeper / housekeeper
+  lemon-juice / lemon juice
+  pepper-corns / peppercorns
+  ramequin / ramekin
+  rose-water / rosewater
+  salt-spoonful / saltspoonful
+  soufflé / soufflée
+  Soufflé / Soufflée
+  soufflés / soufflées
+  Soufflés / Soufflées
+  under-side / underside
+  water-cress / watercress
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Choice Cookery, by Catherine Owen
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHOICE COOKERY ***
+
+***** This file should be named 26311-8.txt or 26311-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/3/1/26311/
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+https://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     https://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/26311-8.zip b/26311-8.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2572c23
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-8.zip
diff --git a/26311-h.zip b/26311-h.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..81d67f4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-h.zip
diff --git a/26311-h/26311-h.htm b/26311-h/26311-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..38ef952
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-h/26311-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,6599 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Choice Cookery, by Catherine Owen.
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css">
+/*<![CDATA[  XML blockout */
+<!--
+    p {  margin-top: .75em;
+         text-align: justify;
+         margin-bottom: .75em;
+         text-indent: 1em;
+         }
+    p.noindent  {text-indent: 0em;}
+    p.titlepage {text-indent: 0em; text-align: center; }
+    p.hanging  {margin-left: 1.5em; text-indent: -1.5em; font-size: 110%; }
+
+    h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {
+         text-align: center; /* all headings centered */
+         clear: both;
+         }
+    .chapterhead {margin-top: 4em; font-weight: normal;}
+    .sectionhead {margin-top: 2em; font-weight: normal;}
+
+    hr { width: 33%;
+	 margin-top: 2em;
+	 margin-bottom: 2em;
+         margin-left: auto;
+         margin-right: auto;
+         clear: both;
+       }
+    .chapbreak {width: 65%; }
+    .declong {width: 8em; border: solid black 1px; margin-top: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em;}
+    .decshort {width: 3em; border: solid black 1px; margin-top: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em;}
+
+    table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;}
+    td    {padding: 0em 0.2em 0em 0.2em; vertical-align: top;}
+    .tdr  {text-align: right;}
+
+    body{margin-left: 10%;
+         margin-right: 10%;
+        }
+
+    .pagenum  { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */
+            /*  visibility: hidden;  */
+                position: absolute;
+                left: 92%;
+                font-size: smaller;
+                font-style: normal;
+                font-weight: normal;
+                font-variant: normal;
+                text-align: right;
+                text-indent: 0em;
+              } /* page numbers */
+
+    .bb       {border-bottom: solid 2px;}
+    .bl       {border-left: solid 2px;}
+    .bt       {border-top: solid 2px;}
+    .br       {border-right: solid 2px;}
+    .bbox     {border: solid 2px;}
+
+    .center   {text-align: center;}
+    .smcap    {font-variant: small-caps;}
+    .chaptitle {font-size: smaller; }
+
+    .footnotes    {border-top: solid 1px; text-indent: 0.5em; font-size: 0.9em; text-align: justify; }
+    .label        {font-size: 80%; vertical-align: 0.2em; }
+    .fnanchor     {vertical-align: 0.3em; font-size: .8em; padding-left: 0.1em;}
+
+    ul.IX         {list-style-type: none; font-size:inherit;}
+    .subhead      {padding-left: 1em;}
+
+    .tn           {background-color: #EEE; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em;}
+
+    // -->
+    /* XML end  ]]>*/
+    </style>
+  </head>
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Choice Cookery, by Catherine Owen
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Choice Cookery
+
+Author: Catherine Owen
+
+Release Date: August 14, 2008 [EBook #26311]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHOICE COOKERY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="tn">
+<p class="titlepage"><b>Transcriber&rsquo;s&nbsp;Note</b></p>
+
+<p class="noindent">Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of these changes
+is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and
+hyphenation have been maintained. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of inconsistently spelled and
+hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[i]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h1 class="chapterhead" style="margin-top: 3em;">CHOICE COOKERY</h1>
+
+<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 4em; font-size: 80%;">BY</p>
+
+<p class="titlepage">CATHERINE OWEN<br />
+<span style="font-size: 70%;">AUTHOR OF<br />
+&#8220;TEN DOLLARS ENOUGH&#8221; &#8220;GENTLE BREAD-WINNERS&#8221; ETC.</span></p>
+
+<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 4em; font-size: 90%; ">NEW YORK<br />
+HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE<br />
+1889</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[ii]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 2em;">Copyright, 1889, by <span class="smcap">Harper &amp; Brothers</span>.</p>
+
+<hr class="decshort" />
+
+<p class="titlepage"><i>All rights reserved.</i></p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Choice</span> cookery is not intended for households that have to study
+economy, except where economy is a relative term; where, perhaps, the
+housekeeper could easily spend a dollar for the materials of a luxury,
+but could not spare the four or five dollars a caterer would charge.</p>
+
+<p>Many families enjoy giving little dinners, or otherwise exercising
+hospitality, but are debarred from doing so by the fact that anything
+beyond the ordinary daily fare has to be ordered in, or an expensive
+extra cook engaged. And although we may regret that hospitality should
+ever be dependent on fine cooking, we have to take things<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span> as they are.
+It is not every hostess who loves simplicity that dares to practise it.</p>
+
+<p>It was to help the women who wish to know at a glance what is newest and
+best in modern cookery that these chapters were written for <i>Harper&#8217;s
+Bazar</i>, and are now gathered into a book. It is hoped by the writer that
+the copious details and simplification of different matters will enable
+those who have already achieved success in the plainer branches of
+cookery to venture further, and realize for themselves that it is only
+the &#8220;first step that costs.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>I have to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mrs. Clarke, of the South
+Kensington School of Cookery, to Madame de Salis, and those epicurean
+friends who have cast their nets in foreign waters, and sent me the
+daintiest fish they caught.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents">
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr" style="font-size: smaller;">CHAPTER</td>
+  <td></td>
+  <td class="tdr" style="font-size: smaller;">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#I">I.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Introduction</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#I">1</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#II">II.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Sauces</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#II">11</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#III">III.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">White Sauces</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#III">23</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#IV">IV.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Brown Sauces</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#IV">33</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#V">V.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Cold Sauces</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#V">42</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#VI">VI.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Soups</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#VI">51</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#VII">VII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Fish Entr&eacute;es</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#VII">61</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#VIII">VIII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Various Ways of Serving Oysters</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#VIII">71</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#IX">IX.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Various Culinary Matters</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#IX">79</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#X">X.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Entr&eacute;es</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#X">86</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XI">XI.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Entr&eacute;es of Mutton Cutlets or Chops</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XI">98</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XII">XII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">On the Manner of Preparing Croquettes,
+   Cutlets, Kromeskies, Rissoles,
+   and Cigarettes</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XII">107</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XIII">XIII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Patties</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XIII">116</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XIV">XIV.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Entr&eacute;es</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XIV">125</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XV">XV.</a></td>
+  <td><span class="smcap">Entr&eacute;es</span>&mdash;<i>continued</i></td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XV">134</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XVI">XVI.</a></td>
+  <td><span class="smcap">Entr&eacute;es</span>&mdash;<i>continued</i></td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XVI">143</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span><a href="#XVII">XVII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Cold Entr&eacute;es, or Chaudfroids</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XVII">153</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XVIII">XVIII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Cold Entr&eacute;es</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XVIII">162</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XIX">XIX.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Galantines, Ballotines, etc.</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XIX">172</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XX">XX.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">How to &#8220;Fillet.&#8221;&mdash;Cold Game Pies</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XX">181</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXI">XXI.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Garnishes</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXI">191</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXII">XXII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Various Ways of Serving Vegetables</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXII">199</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXIII">XXIII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Jellies</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXIII">208</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXIV">XXIV.</a></td>
+  <td><span class="smcap">Jellies</span>&mdash;<i>continued</i></td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXIV">217</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXV">XXV.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Cold Sweets.&mdash;Creams</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXV">226</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXVI">XXVI.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Creams and Frozen Puddings</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXVI">235</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXVII">XXVII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Iced Puddings</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXVII">243</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXVIII">XXVIII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Ice-creams and Water-ices</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXVIII">252</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXIX">XXIX.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Miscellaneous Sweets</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXIX">262</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXX">XXX.</a></td>
+  <td><span class="smcap">Miscellaneous Sweets</span>&mdash;<i>continued</i></td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXX">271</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXXI">XXXI.</a></td>
+  <td><span class="smcap">Miscellaneous Sweets</span>&mdash;<i>continued</i></td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXXI">281</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXXII">XXXII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Fine Cakes and Sauces</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXXII">291</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXXIII">XXXIII.</a></td>
+  <td class="smcap">Salads and Cheese Dishes</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#XXXIII">300</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="smcap"><a href="#INDEX">Index</a></td>
+  <td></td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#INDEX">309</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead">CHOICE COOKERY.</h2>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+
+<h2 class="sectionhead"><a name="I" id="I"></a>I.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">INTRODUCTION.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">By</span> choice cookery is meant exactly what the words imply. There will be
+no attempt to teach family or inexpensive cooking, those branches of
+domestic economy having been so excellently treated by capable hands
+already. It may be said <i>en passant</i>, however, that even choice cooking
+is not necessarily expensive. Many dishes cost little for the materials,
+but owe their daintiness and expensiveness to the care bestowed in
+cooking or to a fine sauce. For instance: cod, one of the cheapest of
+fish, and considered coarse food as usually served, becomes an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span>
+epicurean dish when served with a fine Hollandaise or oyster sauce, and
+it will not even then be more expensive than any average-priced boiling
+fish. Flounder served as <i>sole Normande</i> conjures up memories of the
+famous Philippe, whose fortune it made, or it may be of luxurious little
+dinners at other famous restaurants, and is suggestive, in fact, of
+anything but economy. Yet it is really an inexpensive dish.</p>
+
+<p>But while it is quite true that fine cooking does not always mean
+expensive cooking, it is also true that it requires the best materials
+and sufficient of them; that if satisfactory results are to be obtained
+there must be no attempt to stint or change proportions from a false
+idea of economy, although it must never be forgotten that all good
+cooking is economical, by which I mean that there is no waste, every
+cent&#8217;s worth of material being made to do its full duty.</p>
+
+<p>In this book the object will be to give the newest and most <i>recherch&eacute;</i>
+dishes, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> these will naturally be expensive. Yet for those families
+who depend upon the caterer for everything in the way of fine soups,
+<i>entr&eacute;es</i>, or sauces, because the cook can achieve only the plain part
+of the dinner, it will be found a great economy as well as convenience
+to be independent of this outside resource, which is always very costly,
+and invariably destroys the individuality of a repast. Many new recipes
+will be given, and others little known in private kitchens, or thought
+to be quite beyond the attainment of any but an accomplished <i>chef</i>. But
+if strict attention be paid to small matters, and the directions
+faithfully carried out, there will be no difficulty in a lady becoming
+her own <i>chef</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I propose to begin with sauces. This is reversing the usual mode, and
+yet I think the reader will not regret the innovation. The cooking to be
+taught in these pages, being emphatically what is popularly known as
+&#8220;Delmonico cooking,&#8221; very much depends on the excellence of the sauces
+served with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> each dish; and as it is no time to learn to make a fine
+sauce when the dish it is served with is being cooked, I think the
+better plan is to give the sauces first. They will be frequently
+referred to, but no repetition of the recipes will be given.</p>
+
+<p>Before proceeding further I will say a few words that may save time and
+patience hereafter. Of course it is not expected that any one will hope
+to succeed with elaborate dishes without understanding the principles of
+simple cooking, but many do this without perceiving that in that
+knowledge they hold the key to very much more, and I would ask readers
+who are in earnest about the matter to acquire the habit of putting two
+and two together in cooking as they would in fancy-work. If you know
+half a dozen embroidery or lace stitches, you see at once that you can
+produce the elaborate combinations in which those stitches are used. So
+it is with cooking. The most elaborate dish will only be a combination
+of two or three simpler processes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> of cooking, <i>perfectly</i> done&mdash;that is
+a <i>sine qua non</i>&mdash;something fried, roasted, boiled, or braised to
+perfection, and a sauce that no <i>chef</i> could improve upon; but to
+recognize that this is so&mdash;that when you can make a Ch&acirc;teaubriand sauce
+or a B&eacute;arnaise perfectly, and can <i>saut&eacute;</i> a steak, the famed filets &agrave; la
+Ch&acirc;teaubriand or &agrave; la B&eacute;arnaise are no longer a mystery, or that one who
+can make clear meat jelly and roast a chicken has learned all but the
+arrangement of a <i>chaudfroid</i> in aspic&mdash;will make apparently complicated
+dishes simple.</p>
+
+<p>I go into these matters because I hope to cause my readers to <i>think</i>
+about the recipes they will use, when they will see for themselves that
+even the finest cooking is not intricate nor in any way difficult. It
+requires intelligence and great care about details: no half-attention
+will do, any more than it will in any other thing we attempt, whether it
+be high art or domestic art.</p>
+
+<p>In making sauces or reading recipes for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> them it simplifies matters to
+remember that in savory sauces&mdash;by which I mean those served with meats
+or fish&mdash;there are what the French call the two &#8220;mother sauces,&#8221; white
+sauce and brown; all others, with few exceptions, are modifications of
+these two; that is to say, b&eacute;chamel is only white sauce made with white
+stock and cream instead of milk; <a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a>Allemande is the same, only yolks of
+eggs replace the cream; and so on through the long list of sauces
+belonging to the blond variety. The simple brown sauce becomes the
+famous Ch&acirc;teaubriand by the addition of glaze (or very strong gravy) and
+a glass of white wine, and is the &#8220;mother&#8221; of many others equally fine.
+This being so, it will be seen that it is of the first importance that
+the making of these two &#8220;mother sauces&#8221; should be thoroughly understood,
+in order for the finer ones based on them to be successfully
+accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>It will clear the way for easy work if I here give the directions for
+making one of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> the most necessary and convenient aids to fine
+cooking&mdash;the above-named glaze. To have it in the house saves much worry
+and work. If the soup is not just so strong as we wish, the addition of
+a small piece of glaze will make it excellent; or we wish to make brown
+sauce, and have no stock, the glaze comes to our aid. To have stock in
+the house at all times is by no means easy in a small family, especially
+in summer; with glaze, which is solidified stock, one is independent of
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Six pounds of lean beef from the leg, or a knuckle of veal and beef to
+make six pounds. Cut this in pieces two inches square or less; do the
+same with half a pound of lean ham, free from rind or smoky outside, and
+which has been scalded five minutes. Put the meat into a two-gallon pot
+with three medium-sized onions with two cloves in each, a turnip, a
+carrot, and a <i>small</i> head of celery. Pour over them five quarts of cold
+water; let it come slowly to the boiling-point, when skim,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> and draw to
+a spot where it will gently simmer for six hours. This stock as it is
+will be an excellent foundation for all kinds of clear soups or gravies,
+with the addition of salt, which must on no account be added for glaze.</p>
+
+<p>To reduce this stock to glaze, do as follows: Strain the stock first
+through a colander, and return meat and vegetables to the pot; put to
+them four quarts of <i>hot</i> water, and let it boil four hours longer. The
+importance of this second boiling, which may at first sight appear
+useless economy, will be seen if you let the two stocks get cold; the
+first will be of delightful flavor, but probably quite liquid; the last
+will be flavorless, but if the boiling process has been slow enough it
+will be a jelly, the second boiling having been necessary to extract the
+gelatine from the bones, which is indispensable for the formation of
+glaze.</p>
+
+<p>Strain both these stocks through a scalded cloth. (If they have been
+allowed to get<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> cool, heat them in order to strain.) Put both stocks
+together into one large pot, and let it boil as fast as possible with
+the cover off, leaving a large spoon in it to prevent it boiling over,
+also to stir occasionally; when it is reduced to three pints put it into
+a small saucepan, and let it boil more slowly. Stir frequently with a
+wooden spoon until it begins to thicken and has a fine yellowish-brown
+color, which will be when it is reduced to a quart or rather less. At
+this point watch closely, as it quickly burns. When there is only a pint
+and a half it will be fit to pour into small cups or jars, or it may be
+dried in thin sheets, if required for soup in travelling; to do this,
+pour it into oiled tin pans an inch deep. When cold it can be cut out in
+two-inch squares and dried by exposure to the air till it is like glue.
+One square makes a cup of strong soup if dissolved in boiling water and
+seasoned. If, however, it is put into pots, it must <i>not be covered</i>
+until all moisture has evaporated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> and the glaze shrinks from the sides
+of the jar. This may take a month.</p>
+
+<p>The most convenient of all ways for preserving glaze is to get from your
+butcher a yard of sausage-skin. Tie one end very tightly, then pour in
+the glaze while warm by means of a large funnel. Tie the skin just as
+you would sausage as close to the glaze as possible, cut off any
+remaining skin, and hang the one containing the glaze up to dry. When
+needed, a slice is cut from this.</p>
+
+<p>Of course any strong meat and bone-soup can be boiled down in the same
+way, and where there is meat on hand in danger of spoiling from sudden
+change of weather it can be turned into glaze, and kept indefinitely. I
+have found glaze five years old as good as the first week.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="II" id="II"></a>II.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">SAUCES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">In</span> addition to the glaze, for which the recipe is given in the preceding
+pages, and which will make you independent of the stock pot, there are
+several other articles involving very small outlay which it is
+absolutely necessary to have at hand in order to follow directions
+without trouble and worry.</p>
+
+<p>It is often said by thoughtless housekeepers that cooking-books are of
+little use, because the recipes always call for something that is not in
+the house. This is a habit of mind only, for the very women who say it
+keep their work-baskets supplied with everything necessary for work, not
+only the everyday white and black spools, nor would they hesitate to
+undertake a piece of embroidery which required quite unusual
+combinations<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> of color or material, and to be obtained only with
+difficulty. Grant a little of this earnest painstaking to the
+requirements of the cooking-book at the start, see that the herb-bottles
+are supplied with dried herbs (when fresh are not attainable), the
+spice-boxes contain the small quantity of fresh fine spices that is
+sufficient for a good deal of cooking, and red and white wine and brandy
+are in the house, all of which should be kept in the store-closet for
+cooking alone, and not liable to be &#8220;out&#8221; when wanted.</p>
+
+<p>The so-called &#8220;French herbs&#8221; are rarely found in American gardens, yet
+might be very readily sown in early spring, as parsley is; but although
+seldom home-grown, they are to be found at the French market-gardener&#8217;s
+in Washington Market, and can be bought fresh and dried in paper bags
+quickly for use. I say dried quickly, because unless the sun is very hot
+much of the aroma will pass into the air; it is, therefore, better to
+dry them in a cool oven. When they are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> dry enough to crumble to dust,
+free the herbs from stems and twigs, and put them separately into tin
+boxes or wide-mouthed bottles, each labelled. The expense of herbs and
+spices is very slight, and they are certainly not neglected among
+kitchen stores on that account; it is merely the want of habit in
+ordering them. In addition to these articles a bottle of capers, one of
+olives, one of anchovies, canned mushrooms, and canned truffles should
+be on hand&mdash;the latter should be bought in the smallest-sized cans, as
+they are very costly, but a little goes a long way. Families living in
+the country often have for a season more mushrooms than they can use. In
+the few days in which they are plentiful opportunity should be taken to
+peel and dry as many as possible; when powdered they give a finer flavor
+than the canned mushroom, and may be used to great advantage in dark
+sauces.</p>
+
+<p>The French <i>chef</i> classes all white sauces as <i>blonde</i>, and calls the
+jar of very smooth thick<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> white sauce, which he keeps ready made as a
+foundation for most of the family of light sauces, his <i>blonde</i> or
+<i>velout&eacute;</i>. This explanation is given because directions are often found
+in French recipes to &#8220;take half a pint of velout&eacute;&#8221; or of &#8220;blonde.&#8221; The
+mistress of a private house may not find it wise or necessary to keep a
+supply of sauce ready made, although to one who has to supply a variety
+of sauces each day it is indispensable; but the day before a
+dinner-party sauces can be so made, and covered with a film of butter to
+prevent skin forming, and can then be heated in a bain-marie when
+required for use. Almost every <i>chef</i> has his favorite recipe for
+velout&eacute;, or white sauce, but they differ only in points that are little
+essential; the foundation is always the same, as follows: Put two ounces
+of butter in a thick saucepan with two ounces of flour (tablespoonfuls
+approximate the ounce, but weight only should be relied on for fine
+cooking). Let these melt over the fire, stirring them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> so that the
+butter and flour become well mixed; then let them bubble together,
+stirring enough to prevent the flour sticking or changing color. Three
+minutes will suffice to cook the flour; add a pint of clear hot white
+stock that has been strained through a cloth. This stock must not be
+poured slowly, or the sauce will thicken too fast. Hold the pint-measure
+or other vessel in which the stock may be in the left hand, stir the
+butter and flour quickly with the right, then turn the broth to it <i>all
+at once</i>. Let this simmer an hour until very thick, then add a gill of
+very rich cream, stir, and the sauce is ready.</p>
+
+<p>This is undoubtedly the best way to make white sauce, which is to serve
+as a foundation for others, or is intended to mask meat or poultry, the
+long, slow simmering producing an extreme blandness not to be attained
+by a quicker method. But circumstances sometimes prevent the previous
+preparation of the sauce, in which case it may be made<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> exactly in the
+same way, only instead of a pint of broth, but three gills should be
+poured on the butter and flour, and a gill of thick cream stirred in
+when it boils; the sauce is finished when it again reaches the
+boiling-point.</p>
+
+<p>This is the foundation for the following &#8220;grand&#8221; sauces: Poulette,
+Allemande, Uxelles, Soubise, Ste. M&eacute;nehould, P&eacute;rigueux, Supr&ecirc;me, besides
+all the simpler ones, which take their name from the chief ingredient,
+such as caper, cauliflower, celery, lobster, etc., etc.</p>
+
+<p>For sauces that have vinegar or lemon juice, it is better that the
+velout&eacute;, or white sauce, should have no cream until the last minute, or
+it may curdle. My object in giving the recipes for sauces in the way I
+intend&mdash;that is to say, by building on to, or omitting from, one
+foundation sauce&mdash;is to dispel some of the confusion which exists in the
+minds of many people about the exact difference between several sauces
+differing from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> each other very slightly&mdash;a confusion which is only
+added to by reading over the fully written recipes for each, as many a
+painstaking, intelligent woman&#8217;s headache will testify. As we progress,
+the exact difference between each will be explained.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Bechamel" id="Bechamel"></a><i>B&eacute;chamel.</i>&mdash;This sauce differs from the white sauce only in the fact
+that the white stock used for the latter need not be very strong; for
+b&eacute;chamel it should either be very strong or boiled down rapidly to make
+it so, and there should always be half cream instead of one third, as in
+white sauce, and when required for fish the stock may be of fish. White
+sauce is frequently (perhaps most frequently) made with milk, or milk
+and cream, in place of stock, in this country, and answers admirably for
+many purposes, but would not be what is required for the kind of cooking
+intended in these pages.</p>
+
+<p>Most readers know how &#8220;to stir,&#8221; and it may seem quite an unnecessary
+matter to go into. Yet if only one reader does not know<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> that to stir
+means a regular, even, slow circling of the spoon, <i>not only in the
+centre</i> of the saucepan, but round the sides, she will fail in making
+good sauce. Stir, then, slowly, gently, going over every part of the
+bottom of the saucepan till the sides are reached, pass the spoon gently
+round them, thence back to the middle, and so on. In this way the sauce
+gets no chance to stick to any particular spot. A small copper saucepan
+is the best possible utensil for making sauce, as it does not burn.</p>
+
+<p>The rule for seasoning is a level salt-spoonful of salt to half a pint;
+pepper, one fourth the quantity. This, however, is only when the stock
+is unseasoned; if seasoned, only salt enough must be added to season the
+cream and eggs.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Allemande" id="Allemande"></a><i>Allemande.</i>&mdash;Take half a pint of white sauce, add to it half the liquor
+from a can of mushrooms, and half a dozen of the mushrooms chopped fine.
+Let them simmer&mdash;stirring all the time&mdash;five minutes, then re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>move from
+the fire. Set the saucepan into another containing boiling water. Have
+the yolks of three eggs ready beaten, put a little of the sauce to them,
+beat together, then add the eggs gradually to the rest of the sauce,
+which must be returned to the fire, and stirred until the eggs <i>begin</i>
+to thicken; then it must be quickly removed, and stirred until slightly
+cool. Season with a saltspoonful of salt, a fourth of one of pepper, and
+strain carefully.</p>
+
+<p>It must never be forgotten that in thickening with eggs the sauce or
+soup must <i>not boil</i> after they are added, or they will curdle. Yet if
+they do not reach the boiling-point they will not thicken. Only keen
+attention to the first sign of thickening will insure success. If a
+failure is made the first time, look upon it as the first step to
+success, for you have learned what the danger <i>looks like</i>. Make the
+sauce again as soon as possible, so that your eye may not lose the
+impression. It is worth considerable effort (and it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> really only a
+matter of a few minutes each time) to make Allemande sauce well, for in
+doing so you also learn to make Hollandaise and several choice sauces,
+as will be seen by those that follow.</p>
+
+<p><i>Poulette Sauce.</i>&mdash;Make Allemande sauce as directed in the foregoing
+recipe; add a wineglass of white wine. If sweetbreads or chicken are to
+be cooked in the sauce, as is not unusual, of course the eggs must be
+left out until the last thing. Anything served with this sauce is called
+<i>&agrave; la poulette</i>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Uxelles" id="Uxelles"></a><i>Sauce &agrave; la d&#8217;Uxelles.</i>&mdash;Chop fine a dozen <i>small</i> button mushrooms, or
+half a dozen large ones; parsley and chives, of each enough to make a
+teaspoonful when finely chopped; of lean ham a tablespoonful, and one
+small shallot. Fry gently in a tablespoonful of butter, but do not let
+them brown. Stir these into half a pint of white sauce, simmer three or
+four minutes, then add two yolks of eggs, as for Allemande, and the last
+thing a half-teaspoonful of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> lemon-juice, and just enough glaze to make
+the sauce the shade of a pale Su&egrave;de glove. This sauce is used cold to
+coat meats that have to be cooked in paper, and many that are afterwards
+to be fried in bread-crumbs, for which directions will be given in the
+<i>entr&eacute;es</i>. Dishes termed <i>&agrave; la d&#8217;Uxelles</i> are among the most <i>recherch&eacute;</i>
+productions of the French kitchen.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Villeroi" id="Villeroi"></a><i>Villeroi Sauce.</i>&mdash;Make half a pint of white sauce, which, as in the
+case of b&eacute;chamel, may be made of fish stock when for use with fish; chop
+half a dozen mushrooms, and add a gill of the liquor to the sauce, half
+a saltspoonful of powdered thyme (or one sprig, if fresh), two sprigs of
+parsley, and half a bay-leaf; simmer for fifteen minutes; strain through
+a scalded cloth; replace on the fire; add a piece of glaze as large as a
+hazel-nut, or a tablespoonful of strong meat-gravy, just enough to give
+it the shade of <i>palest</i> caf&eacute; au lait; thicken with two yolks of eggs,
+as for Allemande sauce. All articles served with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> this sauce are termed
+<i>&agrave; la Villeroi</i>. It differs from d&#8217;Uxelles only in having no ham, nor
+acidity from the lemon; also, all flavor of onion is omitted.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="III" id="III"></a>III.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">WHITE SAUCES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Supr&ecirc;me sauce</span> gives its name to several dishes dear to epicures&mdash;supr&ecirc;me
+de volaille, supr&ecirc;me de Toulouse, etc. It is made with a pint of thick
+white sauce, a pint of very strong chicken broth, four stalks of
+parsley, and six white pepper-corns, boiled down to half a pint. Stir
+sauce and broth together until thoroughly blended, then boil rapidly
+down till thick again, taking great care it does not burn. Add one gill
+of double cream, and half a saltspoonful of salt (if the stock was
+already seasoned). Boil up till thick enough <i>to mask the back of a
+spoon</i>, strain, and the last thing add a small teaspoonful of lemon
+juice.</p>
+
+<p>When the white sauce has to be made expressly for the supr&ecirc;me, it is
+easier to use<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> strong chicken broth in place of ordinary white stock;
+then it is not necessary to add it after. The term &#8220;to mask the back of
+a spoon&#8221; is a common one to indicate the proper thickness for sauces,
+but to the untrained eye it may not be easy to decide just what
+&#8220;masking&#8221; means. Most sauces should be thin enough to run quite freely
+from the spoon, yet not so thin as to leave the color of the spoon
+visible through the coating of sauce it will retain if it be dipped into
+it; there should be a thin <i>opaque</i> coating or &#8220;mask&#8221; to the back of the
+spoon. Sauce of this thickness is produced by using one ounce (exact
+weight) of flour of fine quality to half a pint of liquid. Meat, fish,
+or vegetables over which sauce of this consistency has been poured will
+be quite masked, but the sauce will not be too thick to serve readily
+with a spoon. This consistency is worth some practice to attain, for it
+is the perfection of sauce-making.</p>
+
+<p>White sauce, when intended for the foun<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>dation of others, it must be
+observed, is made twice as thick, to allow for the addition of cream,
+wine, or stock. The only advantage in a private family of making it thus
+thick is when, perhaps, two or three sauces are needed for a dinner; for
+example, a plain white sauce for a vegetable, caper, lobster, or
+cardinal for other purposes, and perhaps poulette, d&#8217;Uxelles, or other
+pale sauce for an entr&eacute;e; but when one sauce only is required, it is
+best to make that one from the beginning; that is to say, make white
+sauce with the additions that form it into Allemande, supr&ecirc;me, or
+whatever you require.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ste. M&eacute;nehould Sauce</i> is in these days chiefly associated with &#8220;pigs&#8217;
+feet &agrave; la Ste. M&eacute;nehould,&#8221; but is good for several purposes. It is
+simply half a pint of white sauce into which a dozen bruised mushrooms,
+a gill of the mushroom liquor, a large teaspoonful of finely chopped
+chives, with the sixth of a saltspoonful of pepper and one of salt are
+allowed to simmer until the sauce is the same<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> thickness as before the
+addition of the mushroom liquor; that is to say, thick enough to mask
+the spoon. Strain, return to the saucepan, and add a teaspoonful of
+finely chopped sage leaves, if for pigs&#8217; feet, or parsley for other
+purposes; boil once, add half a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and the
+sauce is ready.</p>
+
+<p><i>B&eacute;arnaise Sauce.</i>&mdash;This is one of the most difficult sauces to make, on
+account of the danger of the eggs curdling; but by the following method
+the work is rendered more sure than by the usual plan. It has been said
+that the terrors of a cook are B&eacute;arnaise sauce and omelette souffl&eacute;e,
+but neither is really difficult; great care only is necessary for
+success with each.</p>
+
+<p>Chop four shallots fine, put them into a saucepan with half a gill of
+Tarragon vinegar and half a gill of plain vinegar; boil till reduced to
+one tablespoonful; then add one gill of white sauce, mixing well. Stand
+the saucepan in another of boiling water; then add, one at a time, three
+yolks of eggs, beat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>ing each, one well in before adding another, <i>and on
+no account let the sauce boil</i>. Remove the saucepan from the fire when
+the eggs are all in and show signs of thickening. Have ready three
+ounces of butter cut into small pieces; drop one in at a time, and with
+an egg-whisk beat the sauce till the butter is blended; then add another
+piece, and so on, till all the butter is used. If added too quickly the
+butter will oil, therefore great care must be taken to see one piece
+entirely blend before adding another. The butter will probably salt the
+sauce enough, but if not, add a very little salt. This sauce should have
+the appearance of a Welsh-rabbit when ready to spread; in other words,
+it should be very thick, smooth, and dark yellow.</p>
+
+<p><i>Soubise.</i>&mdash;This sauce, which transforms ordinary mutton-chops into
+&#8220;c&ocirc;telettes &agrave; la Soubise,&#8221; is very easily made. Boil half a dozen
+Bermuda onions (medium size) in milk till quite tender; press out all
+the milk; chop them as fine as possible; sprinkle a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> quarter of a
+saltspoonful of white pepper and one of salt over them; then stir them
+with a tablespoonful of butter into half a pint of white sauce. If the
+onions should thin the sauce too much (they are sometimes very watery),
+thicken with a yolk of egg, or blend a teaspoonful of flour with the
+butter before stirring it in. Boil the sauce three minutes. Needless to
+say, if the yolk of egg is added, it must be beaten in after the sauce
+is removed from the stove, and only allowed to thicken, not boil.</p>
+
+<p>The sauces so far given are what French cooks call &#8220;grand sauces.&#8221; They
+are the most important part of the dish with which they are served, and,
+as we have seen, give the name to it. There are numberless other sauces
+of which the white sauce is parent that are, however, not indispensable
+to the dish they are served with&mdash;by which I mean a boiled fish may be
+served with oyster sauce or Dutch sauce, the sauce being in this case
+simply the adjunct.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>A dessertspoonful of capers put into half a pint of white sauce, with a
+teaspoonful of the vinegar, makes caper sauce.</p>
+
+<p>Celery sauce is, again, white sauce with the pulp of boiled celery. Boil
+the white part of four heads of celery (sliced thin) in milk till it
+will mash; this will take an hour, perhaps more; then rub the pulp
+through a coarse sieve, and stir it into half a pint of white sauce made
+with half rich cream.</p>
+
+<p>Oyster sauce is white sauce made by using the oyster liquor instead of
+stock. The oysters should be bearded, just allowed to plump in the
+liquor, which must then be strained for the sauce, using a gill of it
+with a gill of thick cream to make half a pint; for this quantity a
+dozen and a half of small oysters will be required.</p>
+
+<p>Shrimp sauce, parsley sauce, lobster sauce, cucumber sauce, and all the
+family are white sauce with the addition of the ingredient naming it.
+Cucumber sauce, which is approved for fish, is made by grating a
+cucum<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>ber, and adding it, with the water from it, to some white sauce;
+boil till well flavored, and then strain. If too thin, boil till thick,
+stirring carefully.</p>
+
+<p>For shrimp sauce canned shrimps serve very well indeed; they must be
+thrown for a minute into cold water, well stirred in it to remove
+superfluous salt, then drained, and dried on a cloth. Put a gill of
+shrimps to half a pint of b&eacute;chamel made with fish stock, boil once, and
+stir in just enough essence of anchovy to make the sauce a pale shrimp
+pink.</p>
+
+<p>Cardinal sauce is a handsome sauce for boiled fish. It is made by drying
+the coral from a lobster, then pounding it quite smooth, with one ounce
+of butter, until it is a perfectly smooth paste. Stir this into half a
+pint of b&eacute;chamel. It should be a fine red when mixed; pass through a
+sieve, and add as much cayenne as will go on the end of the blade of a
+small penknife.</p>
+
+<p>Hollandaise or Dutch sauce is best made in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> the following way. There are
+other methods, but this one meets general approval, is not difficult,
+and agrees with many who cannot possibly eat it when oil is used.</p>
+
+<p>Make half a pint of drawn butter by melting one ounce of butter with one
+ounce of flour over the fire; let them bubble together (stirring the
+while) for one minute; then stir in half a pint of boiling water and
+half a teaspoonful of salt. So far, the making is exactly the same as
+for white sauce, except that water is used instead of cream and stock.
+Boil once, then set the saucepan in another of water, and break up an
+ounce of butter into small pieces and add them; stir briskly after each
+piece is added, and see it blend before putting more. When all is in,
+add the beaten yolks of five eggs, removing the saucepan from the fire
+while doing it. They must be very carefully and gradually stirred in,
+and when well mixed returned to the fire until they <i>begin</i> to thicken.
+The eggs must be kept from curdling. Squeeze<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> in two teaspoonfuls of
+lemon juice, and add just a dust of cayenne. This should be a thick,
+yellow, custard-like sauce, and have a perceptible acidity without being
+sour.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="IV" id="IV"></a>IV.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">BROWN SAUCES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">It</span> has been already stated that the family of brown sauces, like the
+white, have one parent, <i>Espagnole</i>, or Spanish sauce, which is the
+foundation for Ch&acirc;teaubriand, Financi&egrave;re, Robert, Poivrade, Piquante,
+and other sauces. Ordinary brown sauce, like ordinary white, is often
+made without stock&mdash;simply an ounce of flour, one of butter, browned
+together, and half a pint of boiling water added, then boiled till thick
+and smooth. But it may be safely said that in high-class dark sauces
+water should play no part; its place must be taken by stock of good
+quality, which is often enriched by reducing or adding glaze.</p>
+
+<p>The characteristics of finely made Spanish sauce are a clear beautiful
+brown, by no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> means approaching black, absolute freedom from grease, and
+a fine high flavor, so well blended that no particular spice or herb can
+be detected. Spanish sauce is made as follows: Wash, peel, and cut small
+six mushrooms (or a dessertspoonful of mushroom powder), one small
+carrot, one small onion, and one shallot; dry them, and fry them a fine
+brown in a tablespoonful of butter, but do not let them burn; drain off
+the butter. Melt in a copper saucepan two ounces of butter and two
+ounces of flour, stir them together over the fire till of a pale bright
+brown, then add a pint of stock, the fried vegetables, and a gill of
+tomato sauce; let all gently simmer for half an hour with the cover off.
+Strain through a fine sieve. When Spanish sauce is to be served without
+any addition, and not as a foundation, a wineglass of sherry is used and
+the same quantity of stock omitted.</p>
+
+<p>It becomes Ch&acirc;teaubriand by the addition of a wineglass of sherry
+reduced to half a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> glass by boiling in a tiny saucepan, a
+dessertspoonful of fresh parsley very finely chopped, and the juice of
+half a small lemon. These must be added to <i>one third</i> the quantity of
+Espagnole, or Spanish sauce, given in the foregoing recipe. Then stir in
+gradually, bit by bit, one ounce of butter, letting each piece blend
+before adding more.</p>
+
+<p>I have said here and elsewhere, &#8220;the juice of half a small lemon.&#8221; Yet I
+would caution the reader to squeeze it in gradually, because some lemons
+are intensely sour, and a very few drops of juice from such go farther
+than that of the whole half of an average lemon. Ch&acirc;teaubriand sauce is
+by no means acid; there must be only a just perceptible dash of acidity,
+and only so much lemon juice used as will give it zest. Piquante sauce
+is different; there should be acidity enough to provoke appetite; yet
+even this should be by no means sour.</p>
+
+<p>To make <i>Piquante sauce</i>, chop a shallot fine, put it, with a
+tablespoonful of vinegar,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> into a very small saucepan; let them stew
+together until the vinegar is <i>entirely absorbed</i>, but do not let it
+burn. Then add to it half a pint of Spanish sauce and a gill of stock,
+with a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme; cook very gently ten minutes,
+remove the thyme and bay-leaf, and add a dessertspoonful of chopped
+pickled cucumber, a teaspoonful of capers, and a dessertspoonful of
+<i>finely</i> chopped parsley. Simmer very slowly ten minutes more; then add
+enough cayenne to lay on the tip of a penknife blade.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Poivrade" id="Poivrade"></a><i>Poivrade</i> resembles piquante sauce very closely, differing from it,
+however, by the addition of wine and higher flavoring. To make it, fry
+an onion and a small carrot cut fine, a tomato sliced, and an ounce of
+lean ham in two ounces of butter; let them brown slightly; then add to
+them half a pint of claret, a bouquet of herbs, two cloves, and six
+peppercorns; let them simmer till the wine is reduced one half; then add
+half a pint of good Spanish sauce, boil gently ten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> minutes, strain, and
+serve very hot. A true French poivrade has a <i>soup&ccedil;on</i> of garlic,
+obtained by rubbing a crust on a clove of it, and simmering it in the
+sauce before straining it; but although many would like the scarcely
+perceptible zest imparted by this cautious use of garlic, no one should
+try the experiment unless sure of her company.</p>
+
+<p>A &#8220;bouquet of herbs&#8221; always means two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme,
+one of marjoram, and a bay-leaf, so rolled together (the bay-leaf in the
+middle) and tied that there is no difficulty in removing it from any
+dish which is not to be strained.</p>
+
+<p>The well-known <i>Bordelaise sauce</i> is simply Spanish sauce with the
+addition of white wine and shallots. Scald a tablespoonful of chopped
+shallots; put them to half a pint of Chablis, Sauterne, or any similar
+white wine; let the wine reduce to one gill; then mix with it half a
+pint of Spanish sauce and the sixth part of a saltspoonful of pepper.
+Strain and serve.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span><i>Robert sauce</i>, that excellent adjunct to beefsteak, varies again from
+Bordelaise, vinegar and mustard and fried onions taking the place of the
+wine and shallot. Chop three medium-sized onions quite fine; fry them in
+a tablespoonful of butter until they are a clear yellowish-brown,
+stirring them constantly as they fry; drain them, and put them to a
+half-pint of Spanish sauce, to which you add a wineglass of stock (to
+allow for boiling away); simmer gently twenty minutes; add a pinch of
+pepper; strain; then mix a teaspoonful of vinegar in a cup with a
+teaspoonful of mustard; stir this into the sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sauce &agrave; la Normande</i> is one of the most delicious sauces for baked fish
+of any kind, although usually associated with sole. To half a pint of
+Spanish sauce add a dozen mushrooms sliced in half, a dozen small
+oysters with the beards removed, and a dozen crawfish, if they are to be
+had, or their place may be taken by a tablespoonful of shrimps picked
+(canned shrimps, washed and dried, an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>swer very well), one tablespoonful
+of essence of anchovy, and just a dust of Cayenne pepper.</p>
+
+<p>Light <i>Normande</i> is made by using b&eacute;chamel instead of Spanish sauce,
+adding all the other materials; it is then a pale salmon-colored sauce,
+excellent for boiled fish.</p>
+
+<p>A favorite English sauce for fish, which is also brown or pink,
+according to whether it is intended for baked or boiled fish, is the
+<i>Downton sauce</i>. To three quarters of a pint of b&eacute;chamel add a
+dessertspoonful of anchovy essence and a small wineglass of sherry, mix
+well, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Orange sauce</i> for game is made with half a pint of Spanish sauce boiled
+five minutes to make it rather thicker than usual, the juice of three
+sweet oranges, and the peel of one. This peel must be so thinly pared as
+to be transparent. Boil this peel half an hour in water, then shred it
+into fine even strips half an inch long, and not thicker than broom
+straw. Stew this shredded peel another half-hour in a gill of stock,
+with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> scant teaspoonful of sugar; then add it to the sauce, with half
+a saltspoonful of salt, and boil five minutes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Matelote</i> may come in with the brown sauces, although it is not made
+with Spanish sauce as a foundation, but only with strong stock. It is
+used to simmer fish in when directed to be <i>&agrave; la matelote</i>, and if it
+were already thickened the whole would burn. It is made as follows: Half
+a pint of Sauterne or Chablis, half a pint of rich stock, two
+bay-leaves, three leaves of tarragon, chervil, and chive, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper; simmer these until
+reduced to one half-pint. A <i>touch</i> of garlic is indispensable to the
+true matelote, but when used it must be done with the greatest caution;
+a fork stuck into a clove of it, then stirred in the sauce (the fork,
+when withdrawn, not the garlic), or a crust rubbed once across a piece
+of it, is the only way in which it should be used.</p>
+
+<p>Like the white sauces, the family of brown ones is very large, but I
+have given those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> which require special directions. Others are simply
+Spanish sauce with the addition of the ingredient which gives its name
+to it, as brown oyster sauce is simply Spanish sauce with oysters,
+celery sauce, mushroom sauce, and so on. It should always be remembered
+that the consistency must be preserved; that is to say, except when
+special mention is made of the sauce being thinner, it should &#8220;mask the
+spoon,&#8221; and if the addition made to it is of a kind to dilute it, as
+mushrooms and part of their liquor, it must be rapidly boiled down to
+the original thickness. In the same way, when ingredients have to be
+simmered in the sauce&mdash;and this is very often the case&mdash;then a
+wineglassful or half one of broth or stock should be allowed for the
+wasting.</p>
+
+<p>In the next chapter we will make acquaintance with the miscellaneous
+sauces which are not built on the foundation of either white or brown
+sauce. These are chiefly cold sauces, although served with hot dishes at
+times, as Tartare, Remoulade, etc.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="V" id="V"></a>V.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">COLD SAUCES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cold</span> dishes, which are such a pleasing feature of foreign cookery, are
+much neglected with us, at least in private kitchens, or they are
+limited to two or three articles served in mayonnaise, or a galantine,
+yet the dishes which the French call <i>chaudfroids</i> are both delicious
+and ornamental, and it only requires a little taste, care, and <i>perfect
+sauce</i> to convert the ordinary cold chicken, turkey, or game into an
+elaborate and choice dish.</p>
+
+<p>Among cold sauces, of course mayonnaise, both green, red, and yellow,
+reigns supreme; indeed, of late years it has become almost hackneyed.
+Yet no work on choice eating would be complete without the different
+forms of mayonnaise.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>Mayonnaise is one of those sauces in which everything depends on care,
+and very little on skill, and yet some women have quite a reputation for
+making it among their friends who often declare how unsuccessful their
+own efforts have been, and that to succeed is a gift. It is not as a
+novelty, therefore, that the manner of making it is given here, but that
+those who believe they have not the &#8220;magic fingers&#8221; may take courage and
+try again.</p>
+
+<p>First of all let me explain what seems to puzzle many. I have been
+frequently asked, &#8220;How much oil can I use to two eggs?&#8221; the answer is,
+&#8220;As much as you choose;&#8221; or, again, &#8220;How many eggs ought I to take to a
+quart of oil?&#8221; again the answer is, &#8220;One, two, three, or four.&#8221; The egg
+is only a foundation, and mayonnaise will &#8220;come&#8221; no better with two
+yolks than one, although some <i>chefs</i> consider it keeps better when two
+eggs are used to a pint of oil.</p>
+
+<p>A cool room is always insisted on for mak<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>ing the sauce, but to the
+amateur I say, oil, eggs, and bowl also, should be put in the ice-box
+until well chilled, and even then mishaps may come from using a warm
+spoon from a hot kitchen drawer or closet; that, therefore, must be cool
+also. Of course it is often successfully made with only the usual
+precaution of a cool room, but with everything well chilled it is hard
+to fail.</p>
+
+<p>If very little of the sauce is wanted, one yolk of egg will be better
+than two. Separate the yolks very carefully, allowing not a speck of
+white to remain; remove also the germ which is attached to the yolk.
+<i>Stir the yolk at least a minute before</i> beginning to add oil; then
+arrange your bottle or a sharp-spouted pitcher in your left hand so that
+it rests on the edge of the bowl, and you can keep up a pretty steady
+drop, drop, into the egg, while you stir with your right steadily. The
+oil must be added drop by drop, but this does not mean a drop every two
+or three minutes; you may add a drop to every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> one or two circuits of
+the spoon. The reason for adding it slowly is that each drop may form an
+emulsion with the egg before more goes in. After two or three minutes
+look carefully at the mixture; if it has not begun to look pale and
+opaque, but retains a dark, oily appearance, stir it steadily for two
+minutes, and then add oil slowly, drop by drop, stirring all the time.
+If it has not now begun to thicken, it probably will not; but the
+materials are not lost. Put the yolk of another egg into a cool bowl,
+and begin again using the egg and oil you have already mixed, in place
+of fresh oil. When this is all used, proceed with the oil (it is hoped,
+however, that the work will have proceeded without the necessity for
+beginning afresh). When the mayonnaise becomes quite thick, use a few
+drops of vinegar to thin it; then more oil, until sufficient sauce is
+made. Then white pepper and salt should be added for seasoning. The
+vinegar used should be very strong, so that very little of it will be
+suffi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>cient to give the necessary acidity, without making it too thin.
+This is especially the case when the sauce is required to mask salad. It
+should for this purpose be set on ice until firm, but in all cases be
+kept cold. The best mayonnaise, left in a warm kitchen, would separate
+and become oily. The stirring must be steady and constant, and the task
+must not be left until completed.</p>
+
+<p>Mayonnaise is the basis of several other sauces, so that in
+accomplishing it a great deal is done.</p>
+
+<p>Green mayonnaise is made by dropping a bunch of parsley into boiling
+water, and in a minute or two, when it becomes intensely green, take it
+up, pound it in a mortar, and then through a sieve. Use as much pulp as
+will color the sauce a delicate green.</p>
+
+<p>Red mayonnaise, used for cardinal salad and other purposes, is made by
+pounding lobster coral very fine and stirring it in. It must not be
+forgotten that anything added to mayonnaise must be ice-cold.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span><i>Aspic mayonnaise</i> is another form of the sauce, used in dressing cold
+dishes, and while more delicious than the usual sauce, will keep its
+form for hours after the dish is dressed. It is absolutely necessary to
+prepare it on ice. Put half a pint of stiff aspic jelly into a bowl set
+in cracked ice, whisk it with an egg-beater until it is a white froth
+(usually the motion will melt it, but to save labor it may be set in
+lukewarm water to soften, then beaten, but no oil must be added until it
+is again ice-cold froth); then beat in very gradually a quarter of a
+pint of olive oil and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, proceeding
+with the same care as for the usual mayonnaise; add a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and the same of powdered sugar.</p>
+
+<p><i>Norwegian sauce</i> is preferred by many to Tartare for some purposes, and
+is made by adding <i>freshly</i> grated horseradish to mayonnaise in the
+proportion of two tablespoonfuls to half a pint.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span><i>Tartare sauce</i> is mayonnaise with the addition of mustard, chives,
+pickles, and tarragon, chopped. As usually served, it has only mustard
+and capers or chopped cucumber, but for those to whom a slight flavor of
+onion is not disagreeable, chives should be added. To half a pint of
+mayonnaise use a teaspoonful of dry mustard mixed with two of tarragon
+vinegar, then stir into the sauce. To this add a tablespoonful either of
+capers or chopped pickled cucumber; this is the usual Tartare sauce; but
+the French recipe is a tablespoonful of very finely chopped chives, a
+teaspoonful each of fresh tarragon and chervil in place of the pickles.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold cucumber sauce</i> is mayonnaise with an equal quantity of grated
+cucumber, drained, pressed, and stirred into it, with a saltspoonful of
+salt and a few drops of very strong vinegar.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Horseradish" id="Horseradish"></a><i>Horseradish sauce</i> is a very good sauce for hot or cold beef, roast or
+boiled. Grate three tablespoonfuls of horseradish fine, put to it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> a
+teaspoonful of sugar, one of salt, and one of vinegar, or a
+tablespoonful of Chablis wine; let them soak an hour or two, and the
+last thing before serving stir in four tablespoonfuls of cream that is
+whipped very solid. A half-teaspoonful of dry mustard is sometimes mixed
+with the horseradish, but that is a matter of taste. When the sauce is
+to be served hot, two yolks of egg and two tablespoonfuls of water must
+be substituted for cream, which would curdle. The water, horseradish,
+etc., must first come to the boiling-point, then the eggs added
+gradually, and just allowed to thicken, not to boil.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mint Sauce.</i>&mdash;Take only the young, tender leaves, not a bit of stem,
+and chop very fine indeed. To two tablespoonfuls add a tablespoonful and
+a half of brown sugar and three of vinegar. It should be quite thick,
+not as we so often see it&mdash;vinegar with a few bits of mint floating
+around.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Mint_Jelly" id="Mint_Jelly"></a><i>Mint Jelly</i> for masking cold lamb or cut<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>lets.&mdash;Take two tablespoonfuls
+of Spanish sauce, and dissolve in it a good teaspoonful of gelatine
+softened in cold stock, a tablespoonful of aspic, and one of thick mint
+sauce. If no aspic is ready, it is not worth while to make for the small
+quantity needed; a teaspoonful of glaze, two of gelatine, and half a
+wineglass of Sauterne may be dissolved together to take its place. No
+gelatine will be needed with the Spanish sauce in this case.</p>
+
+<p>Sweet sauces will be left until the desserts are treated of.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="VI" id="VI"></a>VI.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">SOUPS.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">It</span> is not proposed to give the soups to be found readily in most
+cooking-books in these pages, but only those less known or of peculiar
+excellence.</p>
+
+<p>It is supposed that the reader understands the making of good beef or
+veal stock, and perhaps the usual way of clearing it. But since cooking
+has been studied scientifically, improvements on methods have been
+introduced; one of these is the clearing of soup with albumen of <i>meat</i>
+instead of egg. The advantages of this method are that the soup is
+strengthened and the flavor improved, while clearing with whites of eggs
+in the usual way, though greatly improving the appearance, tends to
+lessen the flavor of soup.</p>
+
+<p><i>To clear Consomm&eacute; with Beef.</i>&mdash;Con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>somm&eacute; is reduced stock, or stock
+made of extra strength. Carefully remove all fat from three pints of it
+when cold. It will, of course, be a stiff jelly. Chop fine an onion, a
+carrot, and a turnip. Chop half a pound of lean beef from which all fat
+is removed; this is best put through a chopping-machine, as it must be
+very fine. Put the consomm&eacute;, meat, and vegetables into a saucepan. Stir
+them briskly till just on the boiling-point. Remove the spoon, let the
+soup boil up well one minute. It should now be clear. Take a clean
+cloth, fix it on a soup stand or in a colander, pour boiling water
+through it, to warm it thoroughly; throw the water away, and pour the
+soup gently through the cloth twice; do not press or stir it. It will be
+beautifully clear and of excellent color. It is now ready to serve for a
+variety of soups, named according to what is served in them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Consomm&eacute; &agrave; la Rachel.</i>&mdash;This is consomm&eacute; to which is added tiny
+quenelles made in eggspoons, and colored red, green, and black.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>
+Quenelle meat is made from the uncooked breast of chicken or game, the
+backs of hares or rabbits (or it may be made for certain purposes of
+fish or very white veal), first chopped, and then pounded in a mortar
+until it is a perfectly smooth paste. Mere chopped meat is not what is
+required; it must be fine enough to go through a sieve. For Consomm&eacute; &agrave;
+la Rachel, however, the breast of chicken is necessary. Take four ounces
+of chicken, free from skin and sinew; pound it until quite smooth; the
+more it is pounded the better it is. Mix with it thick cream, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, very little pepper, and half a beaten egg, until
+it is a softish paste, yet firm enough to mould; mix thoroughly. Now try
+a little by poaching in a teaspoon; that is, fill a teaspoon with the
+mixture, pressing it in form, then drop it into boiling water for three
+minutes. Open the quenelle and taste it; if it is creamy, light, and
+well flavored, it is right, but if there is the least toughness, add a
+little more cream<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> to the mixture. Notice also the seasoning; if more
+salt is needed, add it carefully, and try again, till you have the
+quenelle mixture just right, that is to say, creamy, light, very tender,
+yet keeping its form. At present quenelles as entr&eacute;es or for soups form
+such an important part of fine cooking that it is worth while to get the
+mixture perfect for other purposes than the present.</p>
+
+<p>Having your quenelle meat ready, proceed to vary it as follows, allowing
+one quenelle of each color to each guest: For the green quenelles use
+sufficient pounded tarragon to color one third the meat delicately. For
+the second use sufficient lobster coral pounded to redden it. The third
+must be made dark with pounded truffles. Great care must be taken to
+keep the three portions separate, so that one color may not injure the
+other. To form them use two very small coffeespoons or eggspoons, as the
+quenelles should not be larger than <i>small</i> olives; butter the spoons
+slightly, and when formed drop each for one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> or two minutes into boiling
+pale-colored stock. Drop them, as they are done, into cold water, in
+which they must be kept until you are ready to use them. When the soup
+is to be served, drain them, lay the number required in the tureen, and
+pour the boiling consomm&eacute; on them. They will not require heating in the
+soup. It may be observed that raw spinach pounded and rubbed through a
+sieve, and boiled red beet, may be used to color the meat green and red,
+and the rest left white. The consomm&eacute; is then called Consomm&eacute; d&#8217;Orleans.</p>
+
+<p><i>Consomm&eacute; aux &#338;ufs fil&eacute;s.</i>&mdash;Put one quart of cleared consomm&eacute; to
+boil. Mix one egg, one dessertspoonful of flour, one tablespoonful of
+milk, a pinch between forefinger and thumb of salt, and a dust of
+pepper, into a batter, rub a nutmeg once back and forth over the grater,
+and stir. When the soup boils, pass this batter through a fine strainer
+into it. It should look like threads.</p>
+
+<p><i>Consomm&eacute; &agrave; la S&eacute;vign&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Pound two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> ounces of breast of cooked chicken
+until it will pass through a wide sieve. Mix with it two eggs, three
+tablespoonfuls of milk, twelve drops of almond essence, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, as much nutmeg as will go on the end of a penknife
+blade, and a dust of cayenne. When well blended, fill three or four
+small round muffin pans, well greased, and steam slowly twenty minutes,
+or until set. Turn out very carefully; let them cool; then cut them into
+fancy shapes, and serve in one quart of boiling consomm&eacute;. A few
+asparagus points boiled until just tender, but not mushy, are to be
+dropped in the last thing.</p>
+
+<p><i>Potage &agrave; la Hollandaise.</i>&mdash;For this will be required one quart of veal
+or chicken stock, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, four yolks
+of eggs, half a pint of cream, one gill of green peas, one gill of
+boiled carrots, one gill of boiled cucumber, one teaspoonful of fresh
+tarragon chopped fine, one teaspoonful of sugar, and one teaspoonful of
+salt. Trim<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> the carrots and cucumber with a very small scoop or cutter
+the size and shape of peas; cook them just tender, and no more, in
+boiling water. Put the stock on to boil; skim if necessary; add the salt
+and sugar. Break the eggs into a bowl, add the cream to them, and beat
+them till well mixed. This forms a &#8220;liaison.&#8221; Make the butter and flour
+into a paste in a bowl, pour half a gill of cold stock to it, then
+enough hot stock to dissolve it; when mixed smooth, stir it into the
+boiling stock, let it boil, then remove from the fire, and stir in very
+carefully, to prevent curdling, the liaison of eggs and cream; let it
+come to the boiling-point, but not boil, or it will curdle. Strain it
+into a clean stewpan, and add the vegetables; let all get hot together;
+then strew in the tarragon.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chestnut Soup (pur&eacute;e de marrons).</i>&mdash;Slit twenty-five large chestnuts at
+each end, put them in boiling water, and boil ten minutes. Drop them
+into cold water, and remove both the outer and inner skin. Melt three
+ounces<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> of butter in a saucepan, put in the chestnuts, and saut&eacute; (toss
+them about) for a few minutes, but do not brown them; then add a pint
+and a half of rich white stock, and let the nuts boil in it until very
+tender, when they must be rubbed through a fine sieve. Boil up again,
+add half a pint of cream, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a teaspoonful
+of salt (less if the stock be salted), and a pinch of pepper.</p>
+
+<p><i>Princess Soup.</i>&mdash;Cut a chicken in pieces; wash it; butter a stewpan,
+put in the chicken with a blade of mace, an onion, a bay-leaf, and
+twelve white peppercorns. Let this simmer, <i>closely covered</i>, ten
+minutes, shaking it often to prevent its browning; then put to it two
+quarts of hot veal stock, and simmer one hour. Put into another stewpan
+two ounces of flour and two ounces of butter; stir them together, and
+let them bubble once, then strain the liquor from the chicken to it;
+stir well, and cook a few minutes. Take the white meat from the bones of
+the chicken, pound it in a mortar very fine, stir it to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> stock, then
+rub through a soup strainer; add just before serving half a pint of
+fresh cream and the juice of half a lemon. This soup must be made hot,
+but not boil, after the chicken pulp and cream are added.</p>
+
+<p><i>Potage &agrave; la Royale.</i>&mdash;Boil two ounces of macaroni till tender, but not
+broken; throw it into cold water. Put three pints of white stock to
+boil; cut the macaroni into lengths half an inch long; beat three yolks
+of eggs in a bowl with a gill of cream; throw the macaroni into the
+soup; when it boils, remove from the fire, add the cream and eggs and an
+ounce of grated Parmesan cheese; stir till the soup reaches the
+boiling-point, but by no means let it boil, after the cream and eggs are
+added, or it will be spoiled. Salt soup always in the proportion of a
+moderate teaspoonful of salt to the quart; if the stock is seasoned,
+only add salt for the cream, eggs, etc. Use just a suspicion of cayenne.
+In making soup to which eggs are added, the utmost care is required, yet
+not any more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> than in making custard. The main point is to let the eggs
+come near enough to the boiling-point to thicken, yet far enough from it
+not to curdle. This a little patience will accomplish by watching and
+removing the saucepan for a few seconds as the boiling-point approaches,
+then returning it; do this once or twice, till the opaque, creamy
+appearance shows the eggs are done.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="VII" id="VII"></a>VII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">FISH ENTR&Eacute;ES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Instead</span> of giving recipes for cooking fish whole, for which excellent
+directions are to be found in several modern cookery books, recipes for
+fish entr&eacute;es will be substituted. They are now frequently served at the
+fish course, and by their convenience and economy, as well as the
+variety they afford, are likely to grow in favor. Another point for them
+is that they can often be made hours before, and simply heated when
+needed, thus relieving the cook of the most critical part of her work at
+the time when she needs her attention free.</p>
+
+<p>Some of these entr&eacute;es will be more suited for breakfast, luncheon, or
+supper dishes than to precede a heavy dinner, such, for instance, as the
+preparations of oysters when they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> have been also served before soup;
+but the recipes are included here for their intrinsic worth.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fillets of Cod &agrave; la Normande.</i>&mdash;Butter a tin dish, lay on it three
+slices of cod moderately thick (an inch to an inch and a half), pour
+over them one wineglass of white wine, place a buttered paper over them,
+and bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. Reduce another glass of
+wine in a stewpan by simmering, add to it half a pint of white sauce,
+twelve small oysters, bearded and blanched, twelve small
+quenelles,<a name="FNanchor_62-1_1" id="FNanchor_62-1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_62-1_1" class="fnanchor">62-*</a> and twelve button mushrooms. Season with pepper and
+salt. Simmer one minute only, or the oysters will harden. Place the
+slices of fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, place the
+oysters, mushrooms, and quenelles in groups in the corners of the dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lobster Souffl&eacute;es.</i>&mdash;Cut up the meat of a boiled hen lobster into neat
+dice, showing as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> much of the red as possible. Prepare as many small
+ramekin or souffl&eacute;e cases as may be required by pinning bands of
+writing-paper round them two to three inches higher than the case. Take
+three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise, half a pint of stiff aspic jelly,
+and a gill of tomato sauce in which a teaspoonful of gelatine has been
+dissolved. Every utensil used must be ice-cold, the jelly must be quite
+cold, but not set. Put the tomato sauce, the jelly, and the mayonnaise
+(which should be left on the ice till the last thing) into a bowl set in
+another bowl of pounded ice; whisk them together until they begin to
+look white; then stir the lobster in it, with a teaspoonful of very
+finely chopped chervil and tarragon; fill the souffl&eacute;e cases, piling the
+dressing high; put them on a dish on ice. When they are &#8220;set,&#8221; carefully
+remove the paper bands, sprinkle a little dried and sifted lobster coral
+over the tops, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Coquilles of Prawns.</i>&mdash;Pick the shells<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> from four dozen prawns; mix
+with one third the quantity of mushrooms slightly stewed in a
+tablespoonful of butter and a saltspoonful of salt (the mushrooms must
+not be brown); add four tablespoonfuls of Allemande sauce;<a name="FNanchor_64-1_2" id="FNanchor_64-1_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_64-1_2" class="fnanchor">64-*</a> fill
+the shells, which must be well buttered, dress each over with fine bread
+crumbs which have been carefully fried a golden brown; put them in a
+cool oven twenty minutes, only get thoroughly hot, but not to cook.</p>
+
+<p><i>Coquilles of Salmon or Halibut.</i>&mdash;Take one pound of cold halibut or
+salmon; break it into small pieces; put it in a stewpan with half a
+saltspoonful of salt and a tiny pinch of pepper, and half a pint of
+white sauce, a tablespoonful of very thick cream, and a teaspoonful of
+anchovy sauce; stir well, and let all get hot. Butter some shells,
+sprinkle over with a few fried crumbs, fill with the mixture, cover with
+the fried<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> crumbs, and put them in the oven to get thoroughly hot. Serve
+on a napkin.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salmon en Papillotes.</i>&mdash;Cut some slices of salmon into cutlets the
+right size for serving, make paper cases to fit them, then cover each
+slice with the following mixture: two tablespoonfuls of salad oil beaten
+with the yolk of an egg, one teaspoonful of parsley chopped, one shallot
+chopped, and one anchovy (all these must be chopped as finely as
+possible), a half-saltspoonful of salt, and a grain of cayenne; mix,
+spread on the fish, envelop each piece in a well-buttered case, fasten
+up (by pinching the paper well), and bake half an hour. Serve in the
+papers.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fillet of Sole &agrave; la Normande.</i>&mdash;In speaking of sole, one of course
+means the flounder, which is coming to be called the American sole, and
+when filleted does make a fair substitute for the real thing, and it is
+suitable for cooking in every way that the English sole can be used,
+except whole. A boiled flounder without filleting, or a flounder fried<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>
+whole, as is so often done with sole, would be very coarse. Fillet two
+flounders (in cities this will be done by the fishmonger, but in the
+country it may have to be done in the kitchen, therefore directions for
+doing it will be appended), lay the fillets, neatly trimmed and shaped,
+into a thickly buttered pan or dish&mdash;either fire-proof porcelain or any
+other that can go to table&mdash;pour over them a glass of sherry and four
+tablespoonfuls of consomm&eacute;; cover with oiled paper, and bake ten minutes
+in a moderate oven; take out the pan, pour over the fillets half a pint
+of <i>sauce Normande</i>; return to the oven for five minutes, and serve in
+the pan.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sole &agrave; l&#8217;Horly.</i>&mdash;Make a frying batter thus: mix one tablespoonful of
+milk with two ounces of flour and a tablespoonful of salad oil to a
+smooth paste; then add two yolks of eggs, and the whites whipped firm,
+with a quarter of a saltspoonful of salt; mix with an upward movement of
+the spoon, so as not to deaden the whites of eggs. Set it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> aside while
+you prepare the sole. Mix a tablespoonful of salad oil, a teaspoonful of
+Chili vinegar, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a teaspoonful of
+parsley and one of onion chopped exceedingly fine, a scant saltspoonful
+of salt, and a quarter one of pepper. Mix all together, then cut the
+fillets in half, trimming away all ragged appearance, and lay them for
+fifteen minutes in the mixture (called a marinade); take them out, drain
+them on a sieve, and then dip each fillet in the batter. This batter
+should be just thick enough to coat the fish and run slowly off, not
+cling in a thick paste round it. A French rule for testing the thickness
+of frying batter is to dip a spoon in it and then let a drop run off the
+end on a plate; if it drops freely, yet keeps a beadlike form, it is
+right. Fry each fillet in a wire basket three minutes in very hot deep
+fat. Serve with fried parsley.</p>
+
+<p><i>Turbans of Sole &agrave; la Rouennaise.</i>&mdash;As these require a little of the
+same mixture as would be used for lobster cutlets or cro<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>quettes, it is
+good management to have them when lobster is required for something
+else. The mixture for the cutlets is made as follows (less than a fourth
+of it would be required for the turbans): remove all the flesh from a
+boiled hen lobster; chop it small; wash, dry, and pound the coral, with
+an ounce of butter; take one gill of white sauce, mix the lobster coral
+and a tablespoonful of cream with it, and boil five minutes; mix in the
+lobster with a little salt (unless the lobster is salt enough) and a
+grain of cayenne. This made into cutlets, egged, crumbed, and fried, is
+excellent, but our purpose now is to use it for stuffing. Take as many
+fillets of sole as required, spread the lobster mixture on each, roll
+them up, run a toothpick through them to keep them in shape; trim till
+each will stand; put them on a buttered baking-sheet, cover with
+buttered paper, and bake ten minutes. Chop up two truffles, two
+hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and a tablespoonful of parsley, each chopped
+separately. Take<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> up the turbans, pour over them half a pint of cardinal
+sauce, and ornament the turbans, one with the truffles, one with the
+yolk of egg, and one with parsley; so on alternately.</p>
+
+<p><i>Directions for Filleting Flounders.</i>&mdash;Take a sharp knife, cut away the
+fins all round the fish, and split the flounder right down the middle of
+the back, then run the knife carefully between the flesh and bones,
+going towards the edge. You have now detached one quarter of the flesh
+from the bone; do the other half in the same way, and when the back is
+thus entirely loose from the bone, turn the fish over and do the same
+with the other side. You will now find you can remove the bone whole
+from the fish, detaching, as you do so, any flesh still retaining the
+bone. Then you have two halves of the fish, and you have four quarters
+of solid fish. To remove the skin, take the tail end firmly between the
+thumb and forefinger of the left hand, hold the skin side downward on
+the board, and with your knife make an incision<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> across the flesh, then,
+keeping the skin firmly between your thumb and finger, <i>push</i> the knife
+between it and the flesh, slightly humoring it to prevent tearing the
+flesh. The skin parts quite easily, but no attempt must be made to <i>cut</i>
+the fish from it.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<p><a name="Footnote_62-1_1" id="Footnote_62-1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62-1_1"><span class="label">62-*</span></a> See <a href="#quenelle">Quenelles</a> in No. VI.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_64-1_2" id="Footnote_64-1_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64-1_2"><span class="label">64-*</span></a> See directions in <a href="#Allemande">No. II</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="VIII" id="VIII"></a>VIII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING OYSTERS.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Oysters &agrave; la Villeroi.</i>&mdash;Scald (or blanch) some large oysters, dry
+them, then drop them into some <i>very thick</i> Villeroi sauce,<a name="FNanchor_71-1_3" id="FNanchor_71-1_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_71-1_3" class="fnanchor">71-*</a> let
+them get hot in it, but not boil. Take them out one by one; be sure they
+are thickly coated with the sauce; have a large dish heaped with sifted
+crumbs or cracker meal; as you lift each oyster from the sauce lay it on
+the meal, turn it gently over in the meal, so that a light coat adheres,
+and the sauce is by no means rubbed off. Place them on an oiled plate
+where they will get quite cold, so that the sauce may chill and form a
+whitish glaze under the crumbs. Beat two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of
+water, and when free from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> strings dip each oyster in the egg, using a
+small fork; let superfluous egg drip off for a moment, then lay the
+oyster again on a deep bed of cracker crumbs, cover well, pat very
+gently, and lay each as you do it on a dish sprinkled with them. Fry two
+minutes in very hot deep fat, being careful the oysters do not touch
+each other.</p>
+
+<p>If I have made these directions as clear as I hope, it will be
+understood that each oyster has a rich creamy coating under the crumbs,
+and every effort must be made to avoid breaking the outer shell of egg
+and crumb. For this reason the fat should be heated to 400&deg;. But
+although great care in handling is necessary, they are not difficult to
+succeed with when that care is given.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oyster Kabobs.</i>&mdash;There are two ways of preparing these dainties, and I
+give both. For those who cannot eat bacon the first will probably be
+acceptable. For kabobs of any kind, silver or plated skewers are proper,
+although very slender wooden ones may be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> used. Put in a stewpan a small
+onion chopped <i>very fine</i>, a dessertspoonful of parsley, and a dozen
+mushrooms, also chopped; let these fry one minute in a large
+tablespoonful of butter, add a dessertspoonful (scant) of flour, stir
+all together, then drop in as many fat oysters as are required; they
+must have been blanched in their own liquor and the beards removed; stir
+all round, and add three beaten yolks of eggs, one at a time, taking
+care they do not curdle, but get just thick enough to cling round the
+oyster. String six oysters on each little skewer, basting with the sauce
+wherever it does not adhere; let each skewer cool, then roll the whole
+in beaten eggs and abundant cracker meal, so that the skewer will seem
+to be run through a sausage lengthwise. Fry two minutes in very hot deep
+fat, serve on a napkin; allow one skewer to each person. Two minutes, if
+the fat be sufficiently hot, will fry oysters a pale yellow-brown. They
+should never take longer than this, for oysters harden and shrink if<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>
+overdone in the least. For this reason the use of a pyrometer, when
+possible, saves mistakes and trouble. Such articles as oysters, smelts,
+or any small things, should be fried at a temperature of 380&deg; to 400&deg;.
+It must be remembered that all fried articles darken after they leave
+the frying-kettle, and therefore a very pale yellow becomes a golden
+color on the dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Kabobs</i> No. 2.&mdash;This is the recipe given by the author of the
+well-known Pytchley Books, and is admirable. Take the beards from as
+many fat, fair-sized oysters as required. You require bacon of which the
+fat is thick enough through to allow of circles being cut from the
+slices as large as the oysters. Cut the bacon very thin, get a cutter
+the size of the oysters, trim them with it, then cut eight circles of
+bacon for six oysters. Put first a piece of bacon, then an oyster, then
+more bacon, on each little skewer, till there are six oysters with a
+piece of bacon between each through the centre and one at each end;
+string them very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> evenly. Take a very little cayenne on the tip of a
+knife and a saltspoonful of salt; mix this with two beaten eggs to which
+two tablespoonfuls of water have been added. Dip each skewer of kabobs
+in this; let them drip an instant, then lay them on a deep bed of crumbs
+or cracker meal. Cover them thoroughly, shake them, then dip again into
+the egg (if this has become full of crumbs strain it), and again lay
+them in the meal. Shake lightly again, and arrange each skewer of kabobs
+in a frying-basket, and fry two minutes.</p>
+
+<p>I have spoken in the foregoing directions for &#8220;crumbing&#8221; of using
+<i>plenty</i> of meal, and experience tells me that the rule with those
+unfamiliar with proper methods is to use so little that a plateful would
+be considered <i>plenty</i>. With this quantity no good work can be done. You
+need to turn on to a board or dish at least a quart of crumbs, or a
+whole box of cracker meal. This will enable you to smother the article
+until every part is covered, instead of sprinkling a little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> over and
+under (which generally falls off as fast as put on, and leaves a surface
+yellow with egg in parts), as you must do if a small quantity only is
+used. All the meal that is left must be carefully sifted and put away.
+If the small masses of egg and crumb which will be mixed with it are not
+sifted out the cracker-meal cannot be used again. There must also be
+plenty of egg used for dipping.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oysters in Aspic.</i>&mdash;For these dariole moulds are needed, or the small
+fire-proof china souffl&eacute;e cases which imitate paper may be used. A
+dariole is a small straight-sided tin mould, holding rather less than a
+gill. They will be found at large house-furnishing stores, or a tinman
+could easily make them, they being, in fact, like deep corn-muffin pans.
+If they are made to order, avoid getting them too large&mdash;three inches
+deep by two across will be large enough. Fill these moulds with aspic
+jelly nearly cold, set them on ice while you prepare the oysters, which
+must be bearded and cooked till plump in butter, but not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> allowed to
+color. When cool, cut them in half, throw them into some stiff
+b&eacute;chamel,<a name="FNanchor_77-1_4" id="FNanchor_77-1_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_77-1_4" class="fnanchor">77-*</a> which must be warmed till like thick cream, sprinkle
+with a dust of cayenne; lay the oysters to get cold, that the b&eacute;chamel
+may harden on them. Scoop the centre very carefully out of the moulds of
+aspic, leaving a half-inch thickness all round, fill the centres with
+the oysters, pour in more aspic, cold, but not set, and put on ice for a
+few hours, or till ready to serve. The aspic from the centres should
+have been preserved and used to chop with more to garnish the dish. Turn
+the moulds out very carefully, and garnish with chopped aspic and
+watercress or parsley.</p>
+
+<p>It is, of course, understood that b&eacute;chamel sauce, cold, is like
+blanc-mange, and that anything coated with it will be enveloped in white
+jelly, not in a sticky white sauce. If b&eacute;chamel does not become white
+jelly when cold the stock of which it is made is not stiff enough.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lobster in Aspic</i> is prepared as for salad,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> the solid meat cut in dice
+and rolled in mayonnaise, then in chopped chervil or parsley. Then
+proceed exactly as for the oysters.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oysters &agrave; la Tartare.</i>&mdash;The oyster-shells for serving oysters &agrave; la
+Tartare must be of good shape and exquisitely clean; therefore, when
+using oysters on the half-shell, always pick out any that may be deep
+yet stand well, and have a good shape; scald and scrub them, and keep
+for use. Scald as many fat oysters as required in their own liquor till
+firm&mdash;three minutes at boiling-point will usually do this; the oysters
+must be just plump, yet if underdone they will be flabby. Put them on
+ice, choose as many tiny leaves as you have oysters from the heart of a
+lettuce; they must all be of a size, or trimmed so, and the size only
+just large enough to line the shells without coming over them. Lay a
+leaf on each shell, cut each oyster in half, lay four halves in pyramid
+fashion on the lettuce leaf, and mask the top of each, just before
+serving, with Tartare sauce. Allow two to each person.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<p><a name="Footnote_71-1_3" id="Footnote_71-1_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71-1_3"><span class="label">71-*</span></a> See <a href="#Villeroi">No. II</a>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_77-1_4" id="Footnote_77-1_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77-1_4"><span class="label">77-*</span></a> See <a href="#Bechamel">No. II</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="IX" id="IX"></a>IX.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">VARIOUS CULINARY MATTERS.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">This</span> little book does not pretend to go into what may be called the
+principles of cooking, except in so far as they are involved in the
+production of all choice cookery; and where it is considered that a
+principle is little known or too little attended to, the effort will be
+made to give it emphasis by reiteration here.</p>
+
+<p>By principles of cooking I mean the simple rules by which roasting,
+boiling, stewing, etc., are successfully accomplished. Any book or
+series of articles written a dozen years ago would have been of no real
+use without these rudiments, but within that period there have been
+cooking-schools started and cookery books written so exceedingly exact
+in directions that it will be unnecessary to repeat them in &#8220;Choice
+Cookery,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>&#8221; which does not pretend to include family cooking.</p>
+
+<p>For this reason the cooking of joints of meat will not be entered into.
+Nevertheless there are certain rudiments of cooking which are not dwelt
+on usually in books. They are taught in the cooking-schools, and those
+of my readers who have had the advantage of attending them will not need
+the instruction here given. But I meet with many women who devote much
+time to the art of cooking, and who have taught themselves by book and
+experiment all they know, who yet, when told to chop a small quantity of
+herbs very fine, will struggle and chop almost leaf by leaf in their
+faithful endeavor to carry out the direction. Others, less faithful,
+finding their method chops some parts fine and leaves some leaves almost
+whole, let it go at that, with the reflection that &#8220;that <i>must</i> do, as
+it would take all day&#8221; to get them all one degree of fineness. So,
+although it may seem almost too trivial a point to need mention,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> we
+will go into the matter of herb-chopping, lemon-grating, etc., that the
+simple operations may be performed easily and in a very short time.</p>
+
+<p><i>To Chop Herbs.</i>&mdash;Use the leaves only, never the stems; let them be
+fresh and crisp, or, if wilted, leave them in water for a time. Gather
+the leaves firmly between the thumb and three fingers of the left hand;
+shave them through with a sharp knife as you push them forward under it.
+(The process resembles chaff-cutting by hand machine.) Turn them round;
+gather them up again, and cut across them in the same way; then finish
+by chopping quickly, holding the point of the knife with the left hand
+and bringing it down on the little heap of herbs with the right, always
+gathering them together as fast as the chopping scatters them. Five
+minutes will chop a tablespoonful of mint or parsley almost to pulp. A
+sharp steel knife and a small board must be used, not the
+chopping-bowl.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>French books often direct so much <i>fine herbs</i> to be used; English books
+mean the same thing when they call for &#8220;sweet herbs,&#8221; and a mixture of
+one part marjoram, two parts thyme, and three parts parsley is meant by
+both.</p>
+
+<p>The grating of a lemon is a most simple operation, and it may seem that
+every one must know how to do it; but this is far from being the case.
+As many dishes of curdled custards and sauces are caused by this fact,
+the right way in this case is very important. The object of using grated
+rind of lemon is to obtain the fragrance and flavor, which differ very
+greatly from any extracts, however good. Now the whole of the oil which
+contains this fragrance is at the surface&mdash;is, in fact, the yellow
+portion of the rind; therefore this, and only this, must be removed with
+the grater. The white part underneath is bitter, and will cause milk or
+cream to curdle, but it contains no particle of lemon flavor. Yet when
+lemon flavor is called for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> lemon is often grated right down to the
+pulp in parts, while the yellow rind is left on in patches.</p>
+
+<p>A lemon should be grated evenly, beginning at the end and working round
+it, using as small a surface of the grater as possible, to prevent
+waste. The habit of turning the lemon as you grate comes as easily as to
+turn an apple under the knife when peeling. Generally twice across the
+grater and back between each turn will remove all the essential oil,
+but, while guarding against grating too deeply, care must be taken to
+remove the whole of the yellow surface. A well-grated lemon should be
+exactly of the same shape as before, have no deep scores into the pith,
+and have an oily-looking surface.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps before proceeding to the preparation of the combination dishes
+known as made dishes or entr&eacute;es, a few words may be useful to those
+readers whose ambition to accomplish results may cause them to defeat
+their own ends. To such I would say, go<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> slowly; never attempt the more
+difficult thing until the simpler one is beyond chance of failure. Thus
+in following the instructions in this book the wiser women will have
+accomplished, perhaps, each week one or two things they may have
+selected, and it must not be forgotten the plan of the work is that one
+recipe shall serve as a key to many others.</p>
+
+<p>A great many will very likely have delayed trying to make the sauces
+until the dish for which they will be required is given. This is a
+mistake, because it is less annoying to fail with a sauce with no dish
+depending on it, than, say, when you have decided to have sole <i>&agrave; la
+Villeroi</i>, the soles being ready, and fail with the sauce.</p>
+
+<p>I hope that no failure will come to any one trying the recipes here
+given, but in some cases, especially in sauces thickened with eggs, a
+second&#8217;s diverted attention may cause failure without fault of the cook.
+Therefore it is best to make single experiments when there is no danger
+of being disturbed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> and when there is nothing else to be attended to.
+The successful result need never be lost, for in the case of sauces they
+can be reheated the next day in a bain-marie, or pan of hot water; the
+same with the soups, and, indeed, most other things, except souffl&eacute;es
+and omelets.</p>
+
+<p>But, above all things, never try a recipe for the first time the day you
+wish it to appear perfect on your table; try it long before, and if you
+fail, make the same thing over again, reading the directions very
+carefully; some trifling caution or precaution may have escaped you. No
+one ever learns to draw so simple a thing as a circle who is discouraged
+at the first bad curve, and leaves it for easier lines. Keep on at the
+thing you select to do until you succeed, always choosing <i>and
+perfecting</i> the easiest thing in each class first.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="X" id="X"></a>X.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">ENTR&Eacute;ES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Fillet of Beef.</i>&mdash;This favorite dish with French and Americans may be
+roasted whole, or cut so as to serve individually. To roast it whole, it
+must be trimmed perfectly round, and either larded or not as taste may
+dictate. A fillet weighing four pounds should be roasted three quarters
+of an hour in a sharp oven. It may then be served <i>&agrave; la Ch&acirc;teaubriand</i>
+by pouring over it half a pint of the sauce of that name, with
+horseradish sauce, or brown mushroom sauce (brown sauce with mushrooms
+added).</p>
+
+<p>To serve individually, fillets are prepared in the following way: Cut a
+fillet into eight slices three quarters of an inch thick; trim the
+slices into perfect circles, all exactly the same size; flatten them;
+put them in a hot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> pan, and saut&eacute; for seven or eight minutes in two
+ounces of butter; dress them round a dish, and pour over them the sauce
+from which the dish will take its name.</p>
+
+<p><i>Filets de B&#339;uf &agrave; la B&eacute;arnaise.</i>&mdash;Serve with half a pint of B&eacute;arnaise
+sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Filets de B&#339;uf aux Champignons.</i>&mdash;Dress as before; leave in the
+centre of the dish room for a mound of stewed mushrooms; pour over the
+fillets half a pint of rich brown sauce. Serve these dishes as soon as
+cooked: the meat is spoiled by waiting.</p>
+
+<p>I have received several letters from readers living where lobster is
+only to be had in cans, asking if there is no substitute for the coral
+in making cardinal sauce. Canned lobster frequently contains a great
+deal of coral, which is as good for coloring and flavoring as the fresh.
+This can only be known, however, before opening, when the cans are of
+glass. The pulp of red beet-root passed through a sieve and added to
+white sauce or mayonnaise gives a beautiful red tint; but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> the flavor,
+while excellent for a salad or as vegetable sauce, would be unsuitable
+for serving with fish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Grenadines of Beef with Mushrooms and Poivrade Sauce.</i>&mdash;Take as many
+slices of fillet of beef, cut three quarters of an inch thick, as you
+require. Trim them to a pear shape, three and a half inches long and
+three wide at the broadest part. Lard these with bacon, and put them
+into a saut&eacute; pan with a gill of brown sauce and a glass of sherry (half
+the sauce if there are very few grenadines); let them cook gently for
+fifteen minutes. Dissolve a piece of glaze the size of a walnut by
+putting it in a cup which is set in boiling water; when dissolved, take
+up the grenadines, dish them in a circle, and glaze them (a brush is
+properly used for this purpose, but the glaze can be spread with a knife
+dipped in hot water). Fill the centre of the circle with a pyramid of
+small mushrooms mixed with a gill and a half of poivrade sauce.<a name="FNanchor_88-1_5" id="FNanchor_88-1_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_88-1_5" class="fnanchor">88-*</a></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span><i>Fillets of Beef &agrave; la Grande-Bretagne.</i>&mdash;Cut two pounds of fillet into
+neat slices an inch thick; slit them (with a small French boning-knife
+or small penknife) in such a way that you form a pocket in each the
+mouth or opening of which is smaller than the pocket itself. This can be
+done by laying the fillet flat on a board, laying your hand on the top
+of it, making a slit two inches wide, then with the point of the knife
+enlarging the slit inside, but not the entrance to it. The opening
+should extend half-way through; into this put a force-meat made of
+horseradish sauce<a name="FNanchor_89-1_6" id="FNanchor_89-1_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_89-1_6" class="fnanchor">89-*</a> and macaroni boiled and cut fine. The force-meat
+must be used sparingly, so as not to increase materially the thickness
+of the fillet; fasten the opening of each with a wooden toothpick. Saut&eacute;
+these fillets for fifteen minutes; glaze them as directed in last
+recipe; arrange them in a circle, with a pyramid of tiny potato balls in
+the centre. Pour rich brown sauce round.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span><i>Mutton Cutlets &agrave; la d&#8217;Uxelles.</i>&mdash;Cut some cutlets from the neck of
+mutton, leaving two bones to each, trim very carefully, remove the upper
+part of one bone, split the cutlets without separating them at the bone,
+spread some thick d&#8217;Uxelles sauce<a name="FNanchor_90-1_7" id="FNanchor_90-1_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_90-1_7" class="fnanchor">90-*</a> inside, fold the cutlets
+together, run a toothpick through them, and broil for four minutes on
+each side over a hot fire. Have a layer of chopped mushrooms stewed in
+butter in the dish, lay the cutlets on it, pour over some d&#8217;Uxelles
+sauce, and garnish with truffles, cut in very thin circles.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mutton Cutlets &agrave; la Milanais.</i>&mdash;Take six cutlets from a neck of mutton
+(&#8220;French chops,&#8221; many butchers term them), mix equal quantities of
+grated Parmesan cheese and cracker meal. Dip the cutlets into rich thick
+brown sauce,<a name="FNanchor_90-2_8" id="FNanchor_90-2_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_90-2_8" class="fnanchor">90-&#8224;</a> then into the cracker and Parmesan; shake off loose
+crumbs; dip them now into beaten egg in which a little salt and very
+finely chopped parsley and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> chives have been mixed, and then dip them a
+second time in the Parmesan and bread crumbs; drop them into a kettle of
+very hot fat; in four minutes they will be done. Do not fry more than
+four at a time, as too many cool the fat. Dish them in a circle with
+spaghetti dressed with Parmesan in the centre.</p>
+
+<p><a name="deep_fat" id="deep_fat"></a>It seems to me just here that before giving further recipes for fried
+articles I had better make sure that all my readers understand the
+process of frying in deep fat. I have used the word <i>saut&eacute;</i> too, and
+although no doubt both these processes are familiar to most readers who
+would be likely to practise &#8220;Choice Cookery,&#8221; for those who are not
+adepts many of the recipes would be impossible to execute. Frying, once
+understood, is so easy a process one wonders that so few should excel in
+it. To those who are not sure of themselves I recommend practice. A
+couple of hours&#8217; practice and careful observance of rules will enable a
+bright woman to fry successfully.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>For this practice you may prepare several different articles and fry one
+after the other&mdash;one or two very soft and creamy croquettes, one or two
+breaded articles, especially such as are dipped in thick sauce before
+being crumbed, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The principle on which articles that are very soft and creamy,
+underneath the surface of egg and crumbs, are fried is this: the creamy
+substances, whether rich sauce like d&#8217;Uxelles and Villeroi, or the cream
+used to mix croquettes, must always be made of stock that will jelly
+when cold. The sauce is used warm, and the articles are put to chill on
+ice, so that they are in a jellied condition. Now the fat into which
+they are plunged must be so hot that it sets the coating of egg and
+crumbs, which forms a thin shell, as it were, before the jelly has had
+time to melt; the shell once formed, the interior cooks in the intense
+heat very quickly. If the fat were not hot enough, croquettes would go
+all to pieces, and articles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> coated with sauce would lose the better
+part of it.</p>
+
+<p>To fry, you require a stewpan or iron kettle; those called Scotch
+kettles are best, as they set into the range readily. A frying-pan is
+only useful for saut&eacute;ing in little fat. Articles to be fried must be
+immersed in fat, and no frying-pan is deep enough to do this safely. Put
+two to three pounds of clarified dripping or lard into the kettle, and
+let it get very hot. This will be after it ceases to sputter&mdash;some time
+after, perhaps; but you must now begin to watch for smoke to rise from
+the <i>centre</i>. Have near you some little squares of bread crumb; drop one
+in from time to time; only when it colors <i>immediately</i> is the fat hot
+enough. At this point no time must be lost, and your frying begins.</p>
+
+<p>Of course you will have the articles you intend to fry right at hand.
+You will also need a large dish, in which you lay common butcher&#8217;s
+wrapping-paper (often called<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> &#8220;kitchen paper&#8221;) and a perforated
+skimmer&mdash;some like a frying-basket, and for very small things it is an
+assistance; but for croquettes, cutlets, etc., it is not necessary: they
+can be laid on the skimmer and dropped in the fat.</p>
+
+<p>The easiest and safest way to fry is to use a cooking thermometer
+(pyrometers or frimometers they are sometimes called), and let the fat
+be 380&deg; for croquettes, oysters, and articles that only require two
+minutes&#8217; cooking; 360&deg; for cutlets and heavier articles.</p>
+
+<p>The time required for articles to cook in the frying-kettle seems
+astonishingly short. For instance, a breaded chop will be cooked to a
+medium degree in two and a half minutes, well done in three minutes; but
+it must be remembered the heat is intense. Croquettes must never be left
+longer than two minutes, while whitebait (which, however, require
+special instruction to fry without getting them into a cake) need less
+than a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> minute. Potatoes require longer than most things; but the fat
+need not be cooler at first, as would seem necessary, because they are
+so full of water, even when well dried, that they cool the fat rapidly.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;ing</i> (a word that would be expressive of the process in English
+would be a boon to writers on cooking).&mdash;The process generally meant by
+&#8220;frying&#8221; is really saut&eacute;ing; yet so general has been the misconception
+among all but professed cooks, that one has to take the precaution in
+giving directions for frying to say, &#8220;Fry <i>in deep</i> fat.&#8221; It ought to be
+understood that to fry is to <i>immerse</i> in hot fat. If some term suitable
+for kitchen use could be found, half the difficulty would be over. In
+old English books a very fair translation was used; they told you to
+&#8220;toss the article in butter,&#8221; but though it rendered saut&eacute; &#8220;jump&#8221;
+fairly, it did not express the process. There is neither tossing nor
+jumping about it, unless an occasional shake to the pan be called so;
+and as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> &#8220;flat frying,&#8221; &#8220;dry frying,&#8221; are awkward, the sooner we boldly
+take saut&eacute; into common use, and let it become a kitchen word as familiar
+as fricassee (which surely must have been very unfamiliar once), the
+better.</p>
+
+<p>To saut&eacute;&mdash;although every Bridget or Gretchen fancies she can do
+it&mdash;requires nicety and care to do it well, and is far more difficult
+than &#8220;frying in deep fat.&#8221; The pan requires to be hot, also the fat or
+butter used, which should cover the bottom of the pan; a bright fire is
+required. Things that take long to cook require more fat than those that
+require but a short time. Effort must be made to adjust the proportion,
+as adding cold fat prevents browning. Veal cutlets and many other things
+are far better saut&eacute;d than fried. The articles saut&eacute;d require to be
+watched that they do not burn; yet they must not be too often turned, or
+they will not brown&mdash;except, of course, such things as are chopped,
+which require frequent stirring up.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>In speaking of chilling articles coated with sauce to be fried, I
+omitted to give the caution that, in the case of meats, care must be
+taken not to leave them long enough to freeze the meat.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<p><a name="Footnote_88-1_5" id="Footnote_88-1_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88-1_5"><span class="label">88-*</span></a> See <a href="#Poivrade">No. IV</a>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_89-1_6" id="Footnote_89-1_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89-1_6"><span class="label">89-*</span></a> See <a href="#Horseradish">No. V</a>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_90-1_7" id="Footnote_90-1_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90-1_7"><span class="label">90-*</span></a> See <a href="#Uxelles">No. II</a>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_90-2_8" id="Footnote_90-2_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90-2_8"><span class="label">90-&#8224;</span></a> See <a href="#IV">No. IV</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XI" id="XI"></a>XI.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">ENTR&Eacute;ES OF MUTTON CUTLETS OR CHOPS.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Mutton Cutlets &agrave; la Duchesse.</i>&mdash;Take as many cutlets (or French chops)
+as required. Stew them in stock, with a small bouquet of herbs, very
+gently until they are perfectly tender. Take them up, skim the stock,
+and strain it; return to a small saucepan, and reduce the liquid to a
+glaze; dip each cutlet in the glaze and lay it aside. Have ready what
+cooks now call a &#8220;panada,&#8221; made of a gill of thick white sauce, two
+yolks of eggs stirred into it and allowed to approach the boiling-point,
+but not to boil (this, of course, must be done in a double boiler), or
+the eggs will curdle; chop a dessertspoonful of parsley very fine;
+parboil and chop also very fine three onions; pound thoroughly in a
+mortar eight mushrooms; stir these all into the thick<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> sauce, with a
+saltspoonful of salt and a quarter one of pepper. Roll each cutlet in
+this force-meat (if found too stiff to adhere properly, moisten with a
+little cream or a little liquor from the mushrooms), lay them on a
+fire-proof dish, and cover with bread crumbs and bits of butter. Bake
+them until they are a golden brown. Serve with brown Soubise sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lamb Cutlets en Concombre.</i>&mdash;Trim and cut six lamb cutlets three
+quarters of an inch thick, flatten them a little to make them of equal
+size and thickness; flour them, and saut&eacute; them in butter five minutes.
+The fire must be sharp, because they must be a nice brown on both sides.
+Arrange them round an entr&eacute;e dish, with a gill of brown sauce poured
+outside, and a pint of fillets of cucumber in the centre.</p>
+
+<p><i>To Prepare Fillets of Cucumber.</i>&mdash;Cut firm fresh cucumbers lengthwise
+through the middle, remove seeds and all soft parts, cut into inch
+lengths and into olive shapes all the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> same size. Put them into a
+stewpan with an ounce of butter, a pinch of pepper, a saltspoonful of
+sugar and one of salt, and let them stew until quite tender, without
+acquiring any color. To do this the stewpan must be closely covered and
+frequently shaken.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lamb Cutlets with a Pur&eacute;e of Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Trim and cook and serve the
+cutlets as in the foregoing recipe, only in place of the cucumbers make
+a pur&eacute;e of mushrooms in the following way: stew half a pint of button
+mushrooms and part of their liquor in half a pint of white sauce until
+they are very tender (taking care the sauce does not burn), pound them
+in a mortar, then force them through a vegetable strainer; then add
+enough of the white sauce in which they were stewed to make the pur&eacute;e
+the substance of very thick cream.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold Lamb Cutlets in Mint Jelly.</i>&mdash;Roast a piece of what butchers call
+the rack of lamb, which is really the neck and ribs. Let it get cold;
+cut from it six cutlets, which trim just<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> as if they were uncooked; that
+is to say, remove meat and fat from the bone, and scrape it. Mask each
+of the cutlets in mint jelly<a name="FNanchor_101-1_9" id="FNanchor_101-1_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_101-1_9" class="fnanchor">101-*</a> warmed enough to be half fluid.
+Arrange very carefully round an entr&eacute;e dish when they are perfectly set,
+so that the jelly will not come off. Have a Russian salad in the centre.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to Prepare the Salad.</i>&mdash;To prepare this you require two or three
+small vegetable cutters of pretty shape; use them to trim carrots, white
+turnips, and cucumbers into small, attractive forms; boil these in
+separate waters till tender; also green peas, sprays of cauliflower, and
+very tiny young string-beans. Throw each vegetable as it is cooked into
+ice-cold water to keep the color. Have some red beet-root boiled
+<i>before</i> it is cut into shapes. Use equal quantities of each vegetable.
+Arrange them with peas in the centre, and the others in circles round,
+studying the effect of color; then dress, but do not mask, them with
+green mayonnaise.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>At seasons when materials for Russian salad cannot readily be obtained
+the chops may be served with a centre of cucumber salad, or one made of
+the small white leaves of lettuce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cutlets Chaudfroid &agrave; la Russe.</i>&mdash;For this cold dish mutton cutlets are
+used. They must be of the finest quality, and from mutton not newly
+killed. Cut as many cutlets as required, trim, and scrape the bone.
+Braise for an hour in a moderate oven till the meat is very tender,
+remove, and press between two dishes until they are cold. Then trim each
+cutlet into perfect shape. Boil a quart of strong stock (which already
+jellies) down to less than half a pint; dip each chop into this glaze
+once or twice, till they look &#8220;varnished.&#8221; You now require a pint of
+stiff aspic jelly; turn it out of the bowl, cut one or two slices a
+quarter of an inch thick from it, to be cut into shapes (or cro&ucirc;tons)
+with a cutter to garnish the cutlets. Chop the rest of the aspic, lay
+it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> round the dish, and the cutlets against it, with the cro&ucirc;tons of
+aspic to form the outer edge. The centre must be filled with a Russian
+salad, in this case stirred up with very thick mayonnaise, instead of
+being formally arranged. The mayonnaise must be only sufficient to dress
+the vegetables, none to run into the other materials, and beet-root must
+be added last, as it discolors the sauce if stirred up in it.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead">ENTR&Eacute;ES OF SWEETBREADS.</h3>
+
+<p><i>Sweetbreads &agrave; la Supr&ecirc;me.</i>&mdash;Take two plump sweetbreads, lay them an
+hour in strong salt and water, then boil them for ten minutes in fresh
+water; put them between two plates to flatten till cold. Cut off all the
+gristle and loose skin from underneath; put them to stew <i>very gently</i>
+in half a pint of good-flavored stock. Take them up, drain well, and
+stew them in half a pint of sauce supr&ecirc;me, with a dozen small mushrooms,
+for ten minutes.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span><i>Sweetbreads with Oysters.</i>&mdash;Prepare the sweetbreads as in the foregoing
+recipe, quarter them, and put them in a stewpan with a gill of white
+stock, the strained liquor from two dozen oysters, a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and a suspicion of nutmeg. Put two ounces of
+butter in a stewpan over the fire, stir into it one tablespoonful of
+fine flour; let them bubble together, stirring the while, one minute.
+When the sweetbreads have been simmering twenty minutes, pour the gravy
+from them to the sauce; stir quickly till smooth. If thicker than very
+thick cream, add a little more stock. In five minutes add the oysters.
+Keep <i>at boiling-point</i>, but not boiling, till the oysters are firm and
+plump. Do not leave them in the sauce a minute beyond this, or they will
+begin to shrink. Take them and the sweetbreads up, and if the sauce is
+too thin to bear a wineglass of cream, boil it rapidly down till <i>very
+thick</i>; then skim, and just before pouring over the sweetbreads stir in
+a wine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>glass of thick cream. If it goes in earlier it may curdle.</p>
+
+<p>It has been explained before, but I repeat it here, that there must
+never be too much sauce, however good, to any dish, and that the
+consistency is most important: it must be thick enough to mask a spoon,
+yet run from it freely. Nothing can be worse than a dab of white mush
+being served as sauce, unless it be a quantity of thin, milky soup
+floating on every plate. This is where the happy medium must be struck.
+It is perfectly easy to give exact proportions to produce certain
+degrees of thickness, and this has been done in the chapters on sauces;
+but where these sauces are used as a medium in which to cook, for
+instance, sweetbreads, a certain amount of liquid must be added to
+prevent burning. Now it is impossible to say how fast this added liquid
+will diminish if the simmering is as slow as it should be, it may lose
+hardly at all, in which case the articles stewed must be taken out, and
+a few minutes&#8217; hard boiling given to evaporate the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> liquid and bring the
+sauce back to the proper point.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sweetbreads in Cases.</i>&mdash;Prepare two sweetbreads as directed in the
+foregoing recipes. Put them in a stewpan with a thin slice of fat boiled
+ham, half a carrot, half a turnip, and a small onion, all cut small, and
+laid as a bed under the sweetbreads; put in a gill of broth, a bouquet
+of herbs, and half a saltspoonful of salt, with a pinch of pepper. Let
+them stew, closely covered, one hour, turning them after the first
+half-hour. When done, take them up and drain them. When cold, cover with
+thick d&#8217;Uxelles sauce; sprinkle thickly with very fine bread crumbs.
+Make two rough paper cases, butter each liberally, and very carefully
+lay each sweetbread in one, crumbed side uppermost. Put them in a quick
+oven till pale brown. Have ready proper sweetbread cases, slip them
+neatly into them, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>These are excellent cold, in which event they should not be shifted from
+the rough case until ready to serve.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<p><a name="Footnote_101-1_9" id="Footnote_101-1_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101-1_9"><span class="label">101-*</span></a> For recipe, see <a href="#Mint_Jelly">No. V</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XII" id="XII"></a>XII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">ON THE MANNER OF PREPARING CROQUETTES, CUTLETS, KROMESKIES, RISSOLES,
+AND CIGARETTES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Although</span> these ever-popular dishes are all or may all be prepared from
+one mixture, there is a difference in the manner of using it which I
+will here explain.</p>
+
+<p><i>Croquettes</i> are made from a soft creamy mixture chilled on ice till
+firm enough to mould, then simply dipped into egg and crumbs and fried
+in very hot fat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cutlets</i> are the same (of course fancy cutlets are meant, not the
+French chops, so called), only they are shaped to imitate a real cutlet,
+with a little bone inserted; or, in the case of lobster cutlets, a small
+claw is used to simulate the chop bone. Many only stick a sprig of
+parsley where the bone should be, to keep up the fiction.</p>
+
+<p><i>Kromeskies</i> are rolls of the same mixture<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> enveloped in very thin
+slices (hardly thicker than paper) of fat larding pork; a small
+toothpick holds the pork in place. The rolls are then egged, crumbed,
+and fried.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rissoles</i> are the same thing, only rather easier to prepare, being
+rolled in very thin pastry instead of pork.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cigarettes</i>, the newest variation of the favorite entr&eacute;e, and most
+dainty of them all in appearance, are thin rolls of croquette mixture
+(or, better still, quenelle meat) not thicker than a small cigar. These
+are rolled in pastry, thoroughly deadened, pinched very securely, and
+fried a very pale brown.</p>
+
+<p>As the manner of making the mixture is about the same for all kinds of
+meats, fish, or game, varying only in flavor&mdash;a little wine, a little
+onion, or sweet herbs taking the place of the mushrooms in some cases&mdash;I
+will give exact directions for making sweetbread cutlets; chicken, game,
+or fish may be substituted for the sweetbreads, naming them accordingly.
+The ham may always be omit<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>ted where the flavor is objected to. For
+those who like it, it adds very much to sweetbreads, but would be out of
+place with game, which should depend on its own individual flavor.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cutlets of Sweetbreads.</i>&mdash;Soak a pair of sweetbreads in salt and water
+for an hour&mdash;longer if there is much blood about them; then cook them
+half an hour in stock. Drain them and let them get cold. Trim off all
+superfluous fat and gristle; chop them with one ounce of lean boiled ham
+to each pair of large sweetbreads, and half a can of mushrooms, a small
+teaspoonful of salt, the sixth of one of pepper. Put an ounce of flour
+in a small thick saucepan with an ounce of butter; stir them together
+over the fire until they bubble; then add a half-pint of liquid
+consisting of a gill of stiff jellied stock and a gill of thick cream;
+stir till they boil and form a smooth sauce; mix the sweetbread mixture
+with the sauce.</p>
+
+<p>The mixture should be a soft, creamy mass, not in any way so stiff as
+sausage-meat, or so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> as to remain in a heap without spreading; when
+poured on a plate, it should be of a consistency that will <i>slowly</i>
+settle, yet there must not be any liquid whatever. On this question of
+consistency depends the quality of the croquettes, cutlets, etc., made
+from it. If too stiff, they will be dry and only a superior sort of hash
+ball. What you have to aim at is a croquette or cutlet that will ooze
+out of the thin shell of egg and crumb when pressed with a fork. Success
+in attaining this can always be secured by taking care to moisten the
+minced meat with a sauce made of <i>very stiff jelly</i> in the proportion of
+half a pint of liquid (the melted jelly and cream) and one ounce each of
+flour and butter. This will mix a pint of sweetbread and mushrooms, or
+rather less of dry meat, such as the breast of chicken, veal, etc.</p>
+
+<p>I dwell on this point because this class of entr&eacute;es is always popular,
+and if the consistency is once well understood, success is certain to
+follow.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>When the mixture is poured into shallow dishes or plates, a piece of
+buttered paper should be laid over them, and then they should be placed
+on ice until quite firm. When ready, cut small pieces of the mixture,
+make them into shapes as nearly resembling a French chop as you can,
+using a very little cracker meal should they stick to your hands. Have
+before you a large dish of cracker meal and the yolks of two eggs beaten
+with two small tablespoonfuls of water, cover each cutlet thoroughly
+with egg, then with meal, gently patting them to make the meal adhere;
+insert anything you please to represent the bone (turkey ribs may be
+boiled white and kept for this purpose). Cutlets require to be dropped
+into very hot fat, and taken up within two minutes. Consult directions
+for frying in former chapter.</p>
+
+<p>Sweetbread croquettes are simply made into cork or pear shapes, never
+large, instead of cutlets. When the white meat of chicken replaces half
+the sweetbread, they are called Cutlets, or Croquettes, &agrave; la Reine.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>Make no attempt to mould croquettes or cutlets until the mixture is firm
+enough to cut; then handle very quickly, make into proper forms, finish
+them either as cutlets or what you wish, and let them remain in a cold
+place for an hour or two before cooking; this last direction may not be
+always possible, and to an expert is not necessary, but when time can be
+given the amateur should always plan to do it.</p>
+
+<p>But though in experienced hands it is possible (though not so easy) to
+make croquettes and fry them as soon as breaded, do not be led to
+believe that you can dispense with putting the mixture on the ice the
+first time. I remember a young lady who was very proud of her croquettes
+telling me she never found it necessary to chill the mixture; she could
+secure perfect shape without. I asked to see the process, and decided in
+my own mind that she must go widely from the directions, and have her
+material as stiff as hash; but I found she solved the difficulty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> in a
+different way: she simply worked in quantities of cracker meal, using it
+like flour. Of course the croquettes were spoiled, although it was true
+they kept their shape, and I do not think the young lady realized at all
+that she was changing and impoverishing the preparation altogether.</p>
+
+<p><i>Braised Sweetbreads.</i>&mdash;Take a pair of sweetbreads, lay in salt and
+water for an hour, then blanch. Press slightly between two dishes; when
+cold, remove all skin, fat, and gristle; cut up very fine a small
+carrot, a turnip, and an onion; put them in a stewpan with the
+sweetbreads, pour over them a pint of stock, lay a piece of buttered
+paper over them, and braise carefully for half an hour. Take them out of
+the stewpan, put them in a small meat-pan, boil the liquor rapidly a
+couple of minutes, then baste the sweetbreads with it several times; put
+them in a quick oven to brown; serve on slices of fried bread, pour half
+a pint of Spanish sauce round, and garnish with mushrooms.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span><i>Tartlettes of Chicken.</i>&mdash;Cut six ounces of the breast of a cooked
+chicken into very small pieces, chop up one truffle, twelve mushrooms,
+and two ounces of lean boiled ham; stir them into a gill of white sauce.
+Butter thickly nine dariole moulds, line them neatly with quenelle
+meat,<a name="FNanchor_114-1_10" id="FNanchor_114-1_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_114-1_10" class="fnanchor">114-*</a> of which you will require half a pound, fill the centre
+carefully with the mixed chicken, cover the top carefully with quenelle
+meat, and steam for twenty minutes; dish on a circle of spinach, pour
+b&eacute;chamel sauce over and round, fill the centre of the dish with peas or
+mixed vegetables.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chicken &agrave; la Hollandaise.</i>&mdash;Take out the breast-bone of a large <i>young</i>
+fowl, and fill the space with the following force-meat: half a pint of
+fine bread-crumbs, an ounce and a half of butter, a small boiled onion
+chopped, and a dozen oysters cut into small pieces; a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper; bind<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> together with an egg, sew up the fowl,
+and truss for roasting. Make a nice batter, as for fine fritters, and
+when the fowl has been in the oven half an hour, pour part of the batter
+over it; when dry and beginning to brown, pour more, until it is thickly
+coated and a nice brown; baste often; cut up the chicken, and serve with
+Allemande sauce and lemon.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<p><a name="Footnote_114-1_10" id="Footnote_114-1_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114-1_10"><span class="label">114-*</span></a> See directions in <a href="#quenelle">No. IV</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XIII" id="XIII"></a>XIII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">PATTIES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> directions for making one kind will serve for patties generally. In
+cities the cases are very easily bought, but where they have to be made
+at home, only one who is already an expert in making puff-paste should
+attempt them.</p>
+
+<p>Patties when served as an entr&eacute;e should be quite small, or half of them
+will certainly be left on the plates.</p>
+
+<p>Roll puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick for each patty, cut three
+circles from it, moisten the surface of two very slightly with water,
+place one on the other, then with a sharp penknife cut a circle nearly
+through the third round, leaving a margin of one third of an inch; lay
+this round carefully on the other two; brush the top with white of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> egg
+(be sure not to touch the sides), and bake in a very quick oven. Patties
+must be watched, and turned if they show signs of rising unevenly. When
+they are a fine yellow-brown take them out, and leave five minutes for
+them to cool slightly, then with a penknife or a boning-knife carefully
+remove the top formed by the smaller circle you marked, and which (if
+the paste was very light and the oven in good condition) will probably
+have risen out of the centre. Be careful in handling these covers, for
+while warm they are very brittle. With a coffee-spoon remove the
+half-cooked dough from the centre of the patty, taking care, however, to
+leave sufficient thickness of inner crust to prevent the sauce from
+oozing through.</p>
+
+<p>The filling for patties can be made before it is needed; but when that
+is done, it must be made quite hot before it is put into the cases, as,
+if it were put in cold, the pastry would burn before the inside became
+warm.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span><i>Dresden Patty Cases.</i>&mdash;These make a very pretty kind of patty when
+puff-paste is not to be had, and even when it is are a desirable
+variety. They are made from fine light baker&#8217;s bread. Cut slices an inch
+and a half thick, then with a biscuit cutter about two inches in
+diameter cut circles from these slices, and with another cutter, a size
+smaller, press half-way through each. You will now have pieces of bread
+the size and shape of patties. Beat four eggs; mix with a pint of milk
+and a saltspoonful of salt; pour this into a shallow pan, and stand the
+bread patties in it. The amount of milk and eggs must of course depend
+on the number of patties; the proportion named is enough for six small
+ones. The patties must remain steeping until they are thoroughly soaked;
+they must be carefully turned upside down when the lower part is
+sufficiently steeped. The time required will depend on the quality of
+the bread, but one hour will generally suffice. The bread must be
+thoroughly pen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>etrated by the custard, be almost as moist as mush, yet
+be in no danger (with careful handling) of breaking. When sufficiently
+steeped, take each one on a cake turner and lay it on a drainer. (They
+may be prepared some hours before they are needed for cooking.) When
+quite drained, baste each one carefully with beaten egg till every part
+is coated, then smother it in cracker meal. Gently pat it to make it
+adhere, then slip the patty on to a dish till you are ready to fry. Do
+not attempt to move the patties with the hand or a spoon, but with a
+flat skimmer or cake turner.</p>
+
+<p>When prepared as directed, make three pounds of lard <i>very hot</i> in a
+deep frying-kettle,<a name="FNanchor_119-1_11" id="FNanchor_119-1_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_119-1_11" class="fnanchor">119-*</a> place three of the patties on a fine wire
+frying-basket, and fry brown. The fat should be excessively hot, as the
+patties, being full of cold custard, will not burn, and will rapidly
+cool it. They should be a delicate brown<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> in six or seven minutes. Let
+the fat come back to the original intense heat before putting in the
+other patties. When they are fried, remove the centre you marked with
+the smaller cutter with a sharp thin knife and small teaspoon, leaving
+the sides about half an inch thick. They are now ready to fill. If the
+patties are just right, the inside you remove should be of a
+custard-like texture, <i>not</i> like sopped bread: indeed, in eating them,
+the bread should not be easily detected. These patties are very
+delicious filled with any of the usual fillings, or, for dessert, with
+stiff preserve. They have no covers, consequently the filling should be
+piled high without allowing the sauce to run over, and garnished with
+parsley or water-cress.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sweetbread Patties.</i>&mdash;Soak two very white sweetbreads in salt and water
+one hour; parboil for twenty minutes; then let them cool; remove the
+skin, fat, and gristle; cut them into half-inch dice, and lay them aside
+while you prepare the following sauce: Put a gill<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> of strong white stock
+into a small saucepan with a gill of mushroom liquor (and a dozen small
+mushrooms cut in four if approved) to boil. In another saucepan cook an
+ounce of flour and one of butter together, stirring till they bubble;
+pour the two gills of stock quickly to it, and stir till smooth. Season
+with half a teaspoonful of salt and very little pepper; lay in the
+sweetbreads, and let them stew twenty minutes. Strain them off from the
+sauce, which boil down (stirring constantly to prevent burning) till
+very thick; then add a gill of thick fresh cream. The sauce should now
+be thick enough to mask the spoon <i>very heavily</i>; pour it over the
+sweetbreads, and stir together. This is now ready for filling the
+patties. If mushrooms are not liked they may be omitted, the liquor
+replaced by a gill of stock and a teaspoonful of white wine.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oyster Patties.</i>&mdash;Take a dozen and a half Blue Points, scald them in
+their own liquor, but do not leave them a moment after they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> reach the
+boiling-point; strain the liquor from them; cut each oyster in four. Put
+a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter into a small saucepan over
+the fire, stir them together until they bubble; then pour to them half a
+pint of the strained liquor of the oysters, or part liquor and part
+stock. Stir continually, and let the sauce boil very thick; then lay in
+the oysters, and simmer half a minute. The amount of seasoning required
+will depend on the saltness of the oysters, but a saltspoonful of salt
+will probably not be too much, a little pepper, and a teaspoonful of
+essence of anchovies&mdash;just enough to make the sauce a delicate
+salmon-color. For the last thing, stir in one small teaspoonful of lemon
+juice. The consistency of the sauce for all patties should be that of
+very thick double cream. When it is not thick enough, it can always be
+reduced by boiling down, taking care not to boil the meat or oysters,
+etc., in it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chicken Patties.</i>&mdash;Take the breast of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> boiled chicken, cut it into
+dice; use half a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled to make the
+sauce. Put this broth in a small saucepan with a teaspoonful of lean
+boiled ham chopped a little (take care there is not a particle of the
+outside of the ham, or it may impart a smoky flavor); let the ham simmer
+in the broth while you melt together a tablespoonful of flour and one of
+butter; when they bubble, and the broth has been boiled down to about
+one half, <i>strain</i> the latter into a half-pint measure, fill up with
+cream, and stir this quickly to the flour and butter. When the sauce is
+thick and smooth, put in the chicken; keep the mixture at boiling-point
+five minutes, then set the saucepan in another of boiling water, and
+stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs; only just let them thicken; then
+remove from the fire, and use for filling the patty cases. A teaspoonful
+of sherry is often added to the sauce. If this filling is not used while
+hot, it must be reheated in a double boiler and watched, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> the eggs
+will curdle; or the filling may be prepared and the eggs added after it
+is reheated.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bouch&eacute;es</i> of any kind are simply patties made very small indeed&mdash;for
+this reason the filling is always <i>chopped</i> instead of being cut into
+dice.</p>
+
+<p>The essence of anchovy mentioned is a most useful sauce for fish, and
+can be bought at any large grocery.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<p><a name="Footnote_119-1_11" id="Footnote_119-1_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119-1_11"><span class="label">119-*</span></a> See full directions for frying in <a href="#deep_fat">No. X</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XIV" id="XIV"></a>XIV.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">ENTR&Eacute;ES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">In</span> an earlier chapter I gave directions for quenelles as an adjunct to
+soups and for garnishing. Used in this way, they are only a revival of
+an old French fashion, coarsely imitated in the benighted days of
+Anglo-Saxon cookery by the English &#8220;force-meat balls.&#8221; Lately, however,
+not only are quenelles a great feature in high-class cookery as
+additions to made dishes, but they are a most fashionable and delicious
+entr&eacute;e, and replace with great advantage the too-frequent croquette.</p>
+
+<p><a name="quenelle" id="quenelle"></a>To prepare quenelle meat for entr&eacute;es.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mode No. 1.</i>&mdash;To make quenelle meat, a mortar is indispensable, as it
+must be pounded to a pulp that will go through a sieve, and I have known
+a persevering woman grate the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> breast of chicken on a large grater, but
+this is very slow work. Take the white meat from a large, young,
+uncooked chicken, and remove all skin, fat, and sinew. Melt together
+over the fire a scant tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; when
+they are thick and smooth, stir in a gill of boiling water quickly. This
+should now be a thick paste; put it away to cool. Take half as much
+butter as you have of chicken, and half the quantity of paste
+(technically called panada) that you have of butter. Put the paste into
+a mortar; pound it well; add the butter; pound again till smooth; add
+the chicken, cut up very small, and pound until the whole forms a smooth
+pulp. Add one whole egg and the yolks of three, the third of a
+saltspoonful of white pepper (salt must depend on whether the butter
+seasons sufficiently). Work all well together, stir in half a gill of
+thick cream, and pass the whole through a wire sieve. Put the whole on
+ice to get firm. The quenelles should be about the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> size of a small egg
+flattened; shape with two tablespoons dipped in flour. Have ready a
+frying-pan with boiling water in which is a saltspoonful of salt, lay
+each quenelle carefully in, and poach for ten minutes. The water must
+boil very gently. Drain on a sieve; serve with mushroom or tomato sauce.
+Have a little dried parsley and grated tongue or ham, and scatter
+alternately on each quenelle.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mode No. 2.</i>&mdash;One pound of lean veal cutlet; pound it thoroughly in a
+mortar; then rub it through a sieve, or it may be forced (<i>after</i> it is
+pounded) through a vegetable strainer. Steep a pound of bread crumb in
+tepid water; wring it in a cloth to get rid of the moisture; put it in a
+stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter and a pinch of salt. Stir it over
+the fire until it ceases to stick to the pan and forms a smooth paste.
+Place it between two plates to cool. This is called bread panada. Put
+into a mortar twelve ounces of the prepared veal, six ounces of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> fresh
+butter, and eight ounces of the panada. Pound all well together; mix in
+gradually one whole egg, two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and the
+yolks of four more eggs, a scant teaspoonful of salt, and a
+quarter-saltspoonful of pepper. When this is all pounded into a smooth,
+compact mass, put it into a bowl and place it on ice until required for
+use. Mould and poach as described in last recipe.</p>
+
+<p>Great care is required in cooking quenelles, as if they are overdone
+they become tough; ten minutes is enough for those the size of a small
+egg. Before moulding the whole, poach a small one, break it open, and
+ascertain if it is smooth, light, yet firm. They should melt in the
+mouth. If they are at all tough, add a little more cream to the mixture,
+unless the toughness comes from over-boiling, which you must guard
+against. Very elaborate quenelles are made with a core of dark meat,
+made by chopping up ham, tongue, or truffles very fine, and insert<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>ing
+it in the centre while forming the quenelles. Always serve quenelles
+with tomato, mushroom, or rich Spanish sauce. Dish in a circle, and fill
+the centre with spinach, green peas, or a mac&eacute;doine of mixed vegetables.</p>
+
+<p>The mode of preparing all quenelles is by one of the two methods just
+given, but they may be made of any kind of game, or the backs of hares
+or rabbits. Quenelles of salmon, lobster, or other fish must of course
+be served with appropriate fish sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Timbale of Chicken &agrave; la Champenois.</i>&mdash;Chop a small slice of lean boiled
+ham, weighing about two ounces, put into a saucepan with four chopped
+mushrooms, four truffles, and an ounce of butter; stir in a moderate
+dessertspoonful of corn-starch and half a pint of stock and a gill of
+sherry; let this slowly simmer until reduced to one half. Skim off the
+fat, then stir in the finely chopped breast of a large chicken or of two
+small ones, six small pickled gherkins,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> a sprig of parsley, and six
+anchovies which have been soaked in milk. Make all hot over a slow fire,
+but do not let them boil. Line a mould with light puff-paste, pour the
+mixture into it, and bake one hour; turn out and serve very hot. Garnish
+with fried parsley.</p>
+
+<p><i>Scallops of Chicken &agrave; la P&eacute;rigord.</i>&mdash;This dish may conveniently be made
+when the white meat of chicken is required for other purposes.</p>
+
+<p>Bone the legs of two large chickens; take half a pound of veal, a
+quarter of a pound of fat salt pork; pound both in a mortar, then pass
+through a sieve; add to this two tablespoonfuls of minced tongue, six
+truffles, and half a dozen button mushrooms, the yolks of two eggs, a
+saltspoonful of salt, and a <i>very little</i> cayenne. Mix well. Stuff the
+legs of the fowls with this. Sewing them up neatly, wrap each up in
+buttered paper; put them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a
+carrot, turnip, and small onion cut<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> up; add three quarters of a pint of
+brown stock. Put the stewpan in the oven, baste well, and cook gently
+one hour. When cooked, have ready a mound of spinach. Take a <i>very
+sharp</i> knife, cut the legs in slices so as to make circles like slices
+of sausage; strain off the gravy. Cook together a dessertspoonful of
+butter and flour; when they bubble, pour the strained gravy to it, with
+a gill of sherry and a little salt and pepper; stir till smooth; boil
+till as thick as cream. Dress the scallops of chicken in a circle round
+the spinach, pour the sauce round all, and insert bits of truffle and of
+tongue between the scallops.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chicken Souffl&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Pound three ounces of the white meat of cooked
+chicken as fine as possible; mix with it half a pint of cream and three
+well beaten eggs, a few button mushrooms finely chopped, a saltspoonful
+of salt, a sixth of one of pepper, a dust of cayenne, and a speck of
+powdered mace. Pour the mixture in a well-buttered mould, tie<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> a cloth
+over it, and steam it half an hour. It must stand quite upright in the
+steamer. Turn out on a hot dish, and pour any rich brown sauce preferred
+around it. This souffl&eacute; may be made of sweetbreads, or half and half. If
+individual souffl&eacute;s are preferred, butter as many dariole moulds as the
+mixture will fill; lay at the bottom of each something by way of
+garnish&mdash;a little star or disk of tongue or ham for some, of truffle for
+others, of green gherkin for others&mdash;so that when turned out the top of
+the souffl&eacute;s will show spots of color. Half fill the moulds, and steam
+twenty minutes.</p>
+
+<p>Souffl&eacute;s of all kinds depend for excellence on being served the moment
+they are ready, and on the steam being kept up all the time they are
+cooking. When baked the oven must be very steady.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fritot of Chicken.</i>&mdash;Take a cold chicken, cut it into small neat
+joints, season rather highly with salt and pepper, strew over them a
+small grated onion (or one very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> finely chopped), and a dessertspoonful
+of chopped parsley. Cover them with oil, and then squeeze over them the
+juice of a lemon. Turn the pieces now and then, and let them remain
+until they have absorbed the flavor. Meanwhile make a batter of four
+tablespoonfuls of flour and about eight of milk, or as much as will make
+a thick smooth batter; stir into it a wineglass of brandy and an egg,
+the whole beaten to a high froth. Leave this batter in a warm place an
+hour before using, dip the pieces of chicken into it, and fry in very
+hot, deep fat. Serve piled high on a dish garnished with fried parsley.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XV" id="XV"></a>XV.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">ENTR&Eacute;ES.&mdash;<i>Continued.</i></span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Cigarettes &agrave; la Reine.</i>&mdash;These are the newest development of the
+rissole and croquette. They require strict attention to details to
+secure perfect form. Roll puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick; prick
+it all over&mdash;this is to deaden it; roll it now till it is no thicker
+than cartridge-paper. Cut it with a sharp knife dipped in flour into
+strips about two inches and a half wide and about the length of a cigar;
+lay on each strip a roll of chicken quenelle meat that is very firm, and
+the roll not thicker than a lady&#8217;s slender forefinger; be careful that
+the meat reaches nearly the whole length of the paste, yet leaves a
+margin for closing, as the least oozing will spoil the appearance.
+Moisten the edges of the paste all round with white of egg; fold the
+paste over half an inch; be very careful to see that it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span> adheres
+thoroughly; then pinch the ends. Roll them gently with a cool hand on
+the floured board to round them without pressure, taper off the ends
+cigar fashion. If they are softening, lay them on a floured plate on ice
+to get firm; then roll them in egg and very finely sifted cracker meal.
+You may roll or improve the shape, if there is any irregularity, while
+crumbing them. Remember what you aim to imitate is a cigar. The great
+danger for the first time is getting them too large; they must therefore
+be very slender. Fry in deep fat just as rissoles; serve on a napkin,
+log-house fashion. These dainties, as will have been seen, have a large
+amount of butter, and soften in a warm room; they must therefore be made
+in a cold room, and if set on ice some hours before cooking will be much
+easier to fry without bending or twisting.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cigarettes &agrave; la Chasseur</i> are, as the name indicates, made of game, in
+exactly the same way as the last recipe.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span><i>Lobster Quenelles.</i>&mdash;Prepare with bread panada as directed for quenelle
+meat. Poach and drain them. Then dish in a circle with thick Hollandaise
+sauce in the centre and round them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chicken, Turtle Fashion.</i>&mdash;This requires a pullet or young hen about
+six months old. Bone the bird; stuff with a force-meat made of four
+parts minced veal, two parts chopped hard eggs, a half part lean boiled
+ham, two parts mushrooms, and two parts <i>p&acirc;t&eacute; de foie gras</i>. First make
+the veal and ham hot in a little butter, then add the mushrooms and
+<i>foie gras</i>; moisten with stock or mushroom liquor, and <i>gently simmer</i>
+five minutes. Stir in two beaten yolks of eggs and a teaspoonful of
+lemon juice. Season with a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of white
+pepper, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg, grated. Stuff the fowl with this
+mixture; sew it up with trussing-needle and string; turn the skin of the
+neck half over the head, and cut off part of the comb, which gives the
+appearance of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> the turtle&#8217;s head. Scald and skin four chickens&#8217; feet;
+cut off the claws, and insert two where the wings ought to be and two in
+the thighs, so as to look like turtles&#8217; feet. Put in a stewpan a
+tablespoonful of chopped boiled ham, an onion, and a small carrot cut
+up, with a tablespoonful of butter; let them brown very slightly, add
+half a pint of stock, skim it, lay the fowl in this stock, and stew
+gently for an hour and a half to two hours, or even longer, according to
+size. When quite tender take up the fowl, cut and remove the string with
+which it is sewn, lay it on its back on a dish, garnish the breast with
+sliced truffles cut in fancy shapes, place a crawfish tail to represent
+the turtle&#8217;s tail. When eaten hot serve velout&eacute; sauce. This is an
+excellent dish cold garnished with aspic.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked Ravioli.</i>&mdash;Four ounces of veal, six ounces of butter, three
+ounces of lean sausage-meat, a teaspoonful of mixed sweet herbs, a
+little salt and pepper. Pound all in a mortar; when smooth, pound
+separately<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> a gill of spinach that has been boiled till just tender
+without losing color, and a quarter of a pound of cream cheese or rich
+cottage cheese, which must be squeezed in a cloth to remove all the
+milk. When smooth, pound all together, and stir in the yolks of two
+eggs. Make some pastry with half a pound of butter, three quarters of a
+pound of flour, and the yolks of two eggs; mix stiff, and roll till
+about as thick as a fifty-cent piece. Cut the paste in two parts. Take a
+medium-sized biscuit-cutter, mark half as many circles on one half the
+paste as you wish ravioli. Lay in the centre of each circle a mound of
+the force-meat&mdash;perhaps a large teaspoonful, only be careful to leave a
+quarter-inch margin all round. Moisten this margin with a camel&#8217;s-hair
+brush dipped in white of egg; lay the second half of the pastry over
+these mounds; press the cutter on each to trim them, and you have a
+number of little round patties; press the edges together very well by
+curving the little finger round them. Have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> some rich stock boiling in a
+stewpan; poach the ravioli five minutes. Take them up, drain them well,
+arrange them in a fire-proof gratin dish, sprinkle them over with grated
+Parmesan cheese, pour in a very little stock, and bake brown in the
+oven.</p>
+
+<p><i>Veal Cutlets &agrave; la Primrose.</i>&mdash;Take a pound of veal cutlet; cut it up
+into small cutlets the size of a dollar, and perfectly round. Put two
+ounces of butter (which has been first melted to let the curd separate)
+into a saucepan, with three onions, two ounces of bacon cut into small
+dice, a bouquet of herbs (including bay-leaf). Fry, stirring frequently,
+for a quarter of an hour, then add a tablespoonful of corn-starch, a
+dessertspoonful of Tarragon vinegar, and a pint of strong stock. Let all
+simmer very gently for about one hour. Take up the cutlets, strain the
+gravy and pour it over them, then sprinkle with a tablespoonful of
+grated tongue, and the same quantity of parsley dried and crumbled
+small. Chicken may also be cooked in this way.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span><i>Quails &agrave; la Lucullus.</i>&mdash;This, as its name implies, is a most expensive
+and luxurious way of serving these dainty birds, yet by management the
+livers of chickens may be saved a day or two by scalding them, and the
+opportunity taken when several are required for general use during a
+week. Bone very carefully six or eight quails. Cut up three ounces of
+unsmoked bacon, put it in a saut&eacute; pan, let it cook five minutes, then
+add the livers, a shallot sliced, a small bouquet, twelve white
+peppercorns, six cloves, a saltspoonful of salt. Let all cook carefully
+ten minutes: nothing must burn or get very brown. When cooked, pound
+well in a mortar, pass through a sieve, then add three truffles chopped;
+stuff each quail into shape, butter some paper cases known as &#8220;quail
+cases,&#8221; put a quail into each case, a few drops of olive oil on each
+breast. Then put them in a quick oven for ten minutes or a quarter of an
+hour. For the gravy, put the bones of the quails in a stewpan, add a
+tablespoonful of glaze and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> a gill of brown sauce, with one
+tablespoonful of water. Simmer till the gravy is well flavored from the
+bones, then strain, and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped truffles and
+half a gill of sherry. Put one tablespoonful of this sauce over each
+quail before sending it to the table, after very carefully draining all
+grease from the quails. These are served in the papers, but rough paper
+cases may be made to bake them in, and the regular crimped ones set in
+the oven to get hot just before dishing up. Slip the quails into them
+after draining.</p>
+
+<p><i>Quails &agrave; la Jubilee.</i>&mdash;Bone as many birds as required. Lard them with
+pork and thin strips of truffles. Stuff them in shape with equal parts
+of sweetbreads and oysters, sew them up; roll them in buttered paper,
+and cook in the oven in enough Chablis to cover them. Pound some boiled
+potatoes and water-cresses together until thoroughly blended; put a
+tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan with one of milk; put in the
+potato, stir<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> round till quite hot; use this to make a border on which
+to serve the quails. When they have cooked fifteen to twenty minutes,
+take them up, glaze them (melt glaze in a cup standing in hot water, and
+brush them over). Lay them on the potato border, and pour into the
+centre some Spanish sauce with mushrooms in which has been boiled a
+slice of lemon.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XVI" id="XVI"></a>XVI.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">ENTR&Eacute;ES.&mdash;<i>Continued.</i></span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Pigeon Cutlets.</i>&mdash;Take half a dozen young pigeons, split them down the
+back, and bone them, all but the leg, cutting off the wings at the
+second joint. Cut each bird in two down the breast; trim off all ragged
+edges, so that each half-bird has as much as possible the appearance of
+a cutlet, the leg serving for the bone. Saut&eacute; these cutlets, having
+seasoned them with pepper and salt, for three minutes in hot butter,
+then put them in the oven for five minutes. When done, press between two
+plates till cold. Then mask each cutlet with a thick pur&eacute;e of tomatoes
+and mushrooms in which aspic jelly has been mixed, equal parts of each.
+Let them be put on ice to stiffen the masking. Roll in fine cracker
+meal, then dip into well-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>beaten egg, again into the meal, and then
+place them in a saut&eacute; pan with very hot clarified butter, and cook them
+a fine golden brown. Dish up on a border of mashed potatoes browned with
+grated Parmesan; serve mushrooms in the centre and Spanish sauce all
+round.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pigeons &agrave; la Tartare.</i>&mdash;The pigeons should be trussed for broiling;
+flatten well with a rolling-pin without breaking the skin, season them
+with pepper and salt, dip into clarified butter and cover with very fine
+crumbs or cracker meal. Broil them carefully, turning often. Make a
+sauce of a scant tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, a shallot, two
+spoonfuls of pickled gherkins, and a boned anchovy. Mince all finely and
+separately. Squeeze over them the juice of a lemon; add half a
+tablespoonful of water and six of oil, and a little pepper. Mix all very
+well, and just before serving rub in a teaspoonful of dry mustard. Put
+the sauce into the dish, lay the pigeons over, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span><i>Compote of Pigeons.</i>&mdash;For any dish of pigeons except roast or broiled,
+wild birds may be used in place of tame. Their flavor is far finer, and
+if not perfectly young, which is the main objection to the use of wild
+birds, the preparation remedies the defect. Cut four ounces of lean
+unsmoked bacon into pieces, and fry five minutes. Split the pigeons in
+half, skewer each half as neatly as possible with tiny skewers, so that
+they will not sprawl when dished; flour and season them lightly, and fry
+a nice brown on both sides; add one small carrot, one small turnip, two
+sticks of celery, one shallot, six mushrooms&mdash;all cut small; add a
+<i>bouquet garni</i> and three gills of rich stock; let them all simmer very
+slowly in a stewpan for one hour, or longer if the birds are not young.
+Simmer together a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter; pepper and
+salt (quantities depend on whether the stock be seasoned); stir
+constantly, and when they begin to change color pour a gill of brown
+stock<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> to it, stirring well; remove from the fire. Take up the pigeons,
+strain the gravy, then stir in the brown thickening you have made; boil
+up, skim off all fat, then return the birds; let them get thoroughly
+hot, but not boil. Serve on a border of mashed potatoes, pour the gravy
+round and over them, and fill the centre with peas or spinach.</p>
+
+<p><i>Souffl&eacute; of Partridges.</i>&mdash;Clean and cook two partridges; remove the
+breasts and best of the other flesh without skin or sinew. Take two
+ounces of rice cooked till very tender, pound them together in a mortar
+with one ounce of butter and a gill and a half of glaze melted, a
+teaspoonful of salt, and a sixth of pepper. Pound until the whole can be
+forced through a strainer, then add the beaten yolks of four eggs, and
+last of all the whites of two beaten till they will not slip from the
+dish; stir them very lightly into the mixture. Pour it into a silver
+souffl&eacute; case, or into a number of the small china cases. Bake till it
+rises, and then serve immediately with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> tureen of rich brown sauce.
+This souffl&eacute; can be made of any kind of cold bird or fish. The four eggs
+are given for <i>medium</i>-sized partridges.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salmis of Snipe.</i>&mdash;Clean and roast lightly six snipe, saving the trail.
+When done let them get cold, then cut them up and remove the skin, and
+lay them in a buttered stewpan; pound the trimmings and bones in a
+mortar, and put them into a stewpan with two shallots, a clove, a
+bouquet of herbs, and half a pint of claret; let this simmer until
+reduced to one half. Then add three quarters of a pint of Spanish sauce.
+Let these <i>very gently simmer</i> for half an hour, skimming frequently;
+strain through a fine sieve, and return to the stewpan. If it is not
+thick enough to coat the spoon, reduce a little more. Pour this sauce
+over the snipe in the saut&eacute; pan, and let it get hot without boiling;
+pile the pieces in a pyramid; meanwhile chop the trail, mix with half
+the quantity of <i>p&acirc;t&eacute; de foie gras</i> and a little salt and pepper;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span>
+spread this on cro&ucirc;tons, bake, and use them to garnish the snipe.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fillets of Teal with Anchovies.</i>&mdash;Remove the breasts from a pair of
+teal after they have been three parts roasted. Take care to preserve
+each half breast in good shape. Lay these fillets seasoned in a china
+fire-proof dish which has been well buttered and strewed with grated
+Parmesan; split two anchovies, remove the bone. Wash and dry the four
+halves, lay one on each fillet of teal, moisten with a gill of fish
+stock, sprinkle with bread crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, lay small
+pieces of butter over, and bake in the oven fifteen minutes. The last
+thing before serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over all.</p>
+
+<p>Rabbits are so little cared for in this country that it may seem useless
+to give recipes for using them. There are probably two reasons for the
+low estimate in which rabbit is held here. One, that as they are offered
+in market they are skinny, miserable animals.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> Yet there are parts of
+the country where they attain a good size, and a fine plump rabbit may
+compare favorably with fowl for many purposes. Indeed, English epicures
+use it in preference for mulligatawny. The second reason, and probably
+the one that is the real reason, for the difference in taste is because,
+being so lightly esteemed, no care is ever given to the preparation of
+them.</p>
+
+<p>On the chance that some reader may feel inclined to test the
+possibilities of the native rabbit, and its claims to a place in choice
+cookery, I give two or three recipes, each admirable in its way. Rabbits
+should be used quite fresh, and cleaned and wiped dry as soon after they
+are killed as possible.</p>
+
+<p><i>Grenadines of Rabbit &agrave; la Soubise.</i>&mdash;Take the whole backs of two
+rabbits from the shoulders to the thighs, both of which you reject; cut
+away the ribs and the thin part that forms the stomach, leaving only the
+backbone with solid flesh each side; divide this into sections, about
+two joints to each.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> Lard them, and then braise for one hour. Stand them
+in a circle, and pour over and round them a pint of brown Soubise sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fillets of Rabbit with Cucumber.</i>&mdash;Half roast a rabbit, then remove the
+solid flesh from each side the backbone in long fillets. Cut two
+cucumbers and one Bermuda onion in thin slices, salt them, and let them
+drain. Lard the fillets of rabbit, season them, and lay them in a
+stewpan, with a pint of white sauce slightly thinned with white stock,
+the cucumber, and the onion. Let them simmer for half an hour. Lay the
+fillets in a circle, and put the cucumber and onion in the centre, the
+sauce, which should be thick enough to mask them, over the fillets.
+Fried sippets garnish this dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>A Civet.</i>&mdash;For this dish the dark-fleshed rabbit, or hare, as it is
+often called, is best. Cut it into meat joints; cut half a pound of
+unsmoked bacon into slices, and fry in a saucepan; then lay in the hare,
+and saut&eacute; for fifteen minutes. Pour off the fat. Add<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> half a pint of
+port-wine, a bouquet garni, and a dozen mushrooms, and a little pepper
+and salt; let this simmer gently one hour; then add a pint of brown
+sauce and twenty button onions which have been blanched. Simmer for
+another half-hour. Remove the bouquet, add a gill of stewed and strained
+tomato, half a gill of glaze, and a tablespoonful of Chutney. Serve in a
+pyramid, pour the gravy, after it is well skimmed, over the whole, and
+garnish with fried cro&ucirc;tons.</p>
+
+<p><i>Timbales d&#8217;&Eacute;pinard.</i>&mdash;Make some quenelle meat of chicken or veal
+according to directions already given, and mix with pur&eacute;e of spinach,
+prepared as follows, until it is a nice green; pick and wash some
+spinach, put it into salted boiling water, and boil fast for fifteen
+minutes. Drain and press it, then beat it through a wire sieve; return
+to the saucepan with two ounces of butter; pepper and salt; stir till
+well mixed. Stir a gill of cream to the quenelle meat, then use enough
+of the spinach to give it a fine light-green<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> color. When well mixed,
+butter some dariole moulds; nearly fill them. Then dip your finger in
+cold water and press a hole in the centre of each to the bottom; fill it
+with a pur&eacute;e of ham, and then put a coating of quenelle meat over, and
+steam twenty minutes.</p>
+
+<p>Pur&eacute;e of ham is prepared as follows: pound lean boiled ham in a mortar
+with some stock that has been boiled down to half glaze; rub through a
+wire sieve. If too stiff, moisten with a little more melted glaze.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XVII" id="XVII"></a>XVII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">COLD ENTR&Eacute;ES, OR CHAUDFROIDS.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">These</span> elegant dishes are suitable for formal breakfasts, luncheons, and
+suppers, and while presenting an unusually attractive appearance, are
+easier to manage than less elaborate dishes, because they can usually be
+prepared, all but garnishing, the day before.</p>
+
+<p>Although in giving the recipes meat cooked for the purpose will always
+be directed, and for formal purposes no care or expense should be
+spared, the intelligent reader will see where she may make a very pretty
+dish by utilizing cold fowl, game, or lamb for any simple occasion.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sweetbreads au Montpellier.</i>&mdash;Parboil a pair of fine white sweetbreads,
+after soaking them in salt and water an hour. Let them get cold between
+two plates under slight pressure.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> Cut them into the form of cutlets
+(cutlet cutters are to be obtained at the fashionable New York hardware
+stores, and at the large French tin-shops down-town). Have some firm
+aspic jelly not quite set; dip each cutlet in it; chop some aspic that
+is hard and cold roughly; form a circle of it; arrange the cutlets on
+this; fill the centre with asparagus heads; pour mayonnaise round, and
+garnish with fancy shapes of aspic, red and white alternately. Red aspic
+is colored with pulp of the red beet stirred into it while liquid and
+then strained out; green is produced by spinach. The various shades of
+amber, shading into rich brown, that are so effective when tastefully
+mingled, are due to caramel coloring. When colored aspic is required for
+garnishing, pour off a little into separate vessels, and color each as
+required.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chicken Salad &agrave; la Prince.</i>&mdash;Cut the white meat of cold fowl into neat
+fillets, using a very sharp knife, so that there may be no ragged edges.
+Mask each piece with a mixt<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span>ure made as follows: One tablespoonful of
+finely minced capers, two of minced boiled ham, three hard-boiled eggs,
+an anchovy boned and washed, and two sardines freed from skin. All these
+must be well pounded, then rubbed through a sieve; add a teaspoonful of
+finely minced tarragon and chives. Stir all into a tablespoonful of
+mayonnaise and one of aspic, semi-fluid of course. When each fillet has
+been well coated with the mixture and has set, line a border mould with
+aspic jelly, ornament the fillets of chicken with little strips of
+beet-root and cucumber arranged like a trellis-work. Place them very
+carefully round the mould on the layer of aspic, then pour in a little
+more aspic, until the border mould is full, and set it on ice. When
+about to serve have a dish well layered with the small leaves of
+lettuce. Drop the mould for one minute in warm water, and turn out on to
+the lettuce. Fill the centre with a salad composed of cucumber cut into
+dice, peas, string-beans cooked<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> until tender (for this purpose the
+canned French string-beans serve admirably, being beautifully cut
+ready). Pour over the centre salad some thick mayonnaise.</p>
+
+<p>Where mayonnaise makes too rich a dish for the digestion, b&eacute;chamel sauce
+may be substituted for masking, but never for salad; for instance, two
+very simple chaudfroids of chicken may be made as follows:</p>
+
+<p><i>Chaudfroid of Chicken</i>, No. 1.&mdash;Cut up a young fleshy chicken into neat
+joints, remove the skin, mask each piece carefully with b&eacute;chamel sauce;
+when quite set arrange on chopped aspic in a circle, garnish with strips
+of cucumber and beet; cut the remainder of the cucumber and beet into
+neat pieces, and stir into a gill of mayonnaise, and use for the centre.
+This and all salads should be lightly seasoned before the mayonnaise is
+added, or they are apt to taste flat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chaudfroid of Chicken</i>, No. 2.&mdash;Prepare the chicken as in last recipe,
+only before masking the joints season the b&eacute;chamel well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> with finely
+chopped tarragon; leave out the mayonnaise and aspic. Pile up the pieces
+of chicken on the entr&eacute;e dish, and garnish with Roman lettuce, or, if
+that is not to be had, the hearts of Boston lettuce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chicken and Ham Cutlets.</i>&mdash;Boil a young fowl with a good breast in
+clear stock; take it out, let it get cold; cut the breast into rather
+thin slices. The bones, skin, and trimmings may be thrown back in the
+stock, which can be boiled down to make both the b&eacute;chamel and aspic for
+the dish (see recipes), or be kept for other purposes. Take the slices
+of chicken and some very well cooked lean ham that is cut so thin you
+can see the knife under the slices. Melt a little b&eacute;chamel sauce, that
+must be like blanc-mange, pour it on a plate, and before it has time to
+cool cover the plate with the slices of chicken. Dip the ham into the
+stock (if it has been boiled down to jelly, otherwise into melted
+aspic), lay the ham over the chicken, then more thin slices of chicken.
+Now cover the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span> whole by means of a spoon with more b&eacute;chamel; when all
+this sets, which, as your sauce has only been half melted, it will do
+quickly, you have a large white cake about half an inch thick. Cut this
+cake into small pieces (unless you have a cutlet cutter), as like a
+cutlet in form as possible, using a sharp penknife or boning-knife. Take
+up each carefully, and with the end of a silver knife or small spoon
+cover the edges with the b&eacute;chamel sauce, which must be nearly set for
+this purpose.</p>
+
+<p>To garnish the cutlets, cut some tiny green leaves from pickled
+gherkins, and red ones from the skin of a red pepper-pod, and place two
+of each in the centre of each cutlet, star-shaped; a touch of white
+sauce will make them stick; place a speck of parsley not larger than a
+pin&#8217;s head in the centre. Stick a tiny lobster claw three quarters of an
+inch long at the narrow end of the cutlet, and place them in a silver
+dish round some aspic of a bright amber color, chopped. Put a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> very
+small sprig of parsley between each cutlet.</p>
+
+<p>I may here remind the reader that when aspic or b&eacute;chamel is used for
+masking or for pouring into a mould as lining, etc., it must <i>not be
+made hot</i>, only softened in a bowl set in warm water, just enough to be
+free from lumps. It must, of course, be stirred from the moment it
+begins to soften. The mould to be lined should be turned about till it
+is well coated, and if there is a disposition to run off the sides, roll
+it round in ice. For instance, when the first layer of b&eacute;chamel is
+poured on the plate as directed in last recipe, it must be moved about
+until quite covered, yet very thinly. If it sets too soon, hold the
+bottom of the plate over steam.</p>
+
+<p><i>Reed-birds in Aspic.</i>&mdash;Take the back and breast bone from a dozen
+birds, splitting them down the back first. Save the feet. Make a
+force-meat of <a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a><i>p&acirc;t&eacute; de foie gras</i> and panada in equal proportions;
+season highly, spread the inside of the birds, sew them up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> as nearly in
+shape as possible; bake seven to ten minutes, then dip them into glaze;
+put a little pale aspic in a dozen dariole moulds, enough to cover the
+bottom a quarter of an inch, and when just set put in a bird breast
+down; set on ice a few minutes, then pour in aspic to cover the bird a
+quarter of an inch. Put on ice. Turn out, and on the top of each strew
+pistachio nuts chopped very fine. Insert the two feet of the bird,
+scalded and dried, to stand up from the centre.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chaudfroid of Reed-birds.</i>&mdash;Prepare as in last recipe with <i>p&acirc;t&eacute; de
+foie gras</i> force-meat. Butter a dozen dariole moulds. Put a bird in
+each, breast downward; put the dariole moulds in a pan with a little
+water, and set it in the oven for fifteen minutes; when cold, turn out
+the birds, wipe them, dip each in brown <i>chaudfroid</i> sauce, and put them
+on a dish to cool. When cold, lay them in rows against a pile of chopped
+aspic.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brown Chaudfroid Sauce</i> is made by put<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span>ting a pint of Spanish sauce, a
+gill of cream, half a pint of aspic jelly together, and boiling them
+until they are reduced one quarter. Skim constantly, and strain for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>White Chaudfroid Sauce</i> is simply b&eacute;chamel and aspic treated in the
+same way. It differs, of course, from plain b&eacute;chamel in having the
+piquant flavor of the aspic; in appearance there is little difference.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XVIII" id="XVIII"></a>XVIII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">COLD ENTR&Eacute;ES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Iced Savory Souffl&eacute;.</i>&mdash;This dish can be made of fish, game, or chicken,
+but is considered best made of crab. Cut up the crab, or whatever it may
+be, into small pieces; let it soak in mayonnaise sauce for two or three
+hours. Have some well-flavored aspic jelly, half liquid; whip it till it
+is very frothy; put some of this at the bottom of the dish it is to be
+served in&mdash;a silver one is most effective; then place a layer of crab
+well seasoned, and fill it up with aspic and crab alternately until the
+dish is nearly full; place a band of stiff paper round, and fill in with
+whipped aspic; set it on ice for two hours; take off the paper, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Savories.</i>&mdash;Within the last few years, which may, perhaps, be called
+the renaissance of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> cooking in England, since Kettner, in his &#8220;Book of
+the Table,&#8221; shows that in the Middle Ages that country was famous for
+its cuisine, while France was still benighted&mdash;within the last few
+years, then, there has grown up a fashion of introducing preparations
+called <i>savories</i>. They vary very much, from the tiny little <i>bouchette</i>
+of something very piquant, to be taken between courses as an
+appetizer&mdash;which, I believe, was the original idea&mdash;to quite important
+dishes suitable as entr&eacute;es for formal breakfasts or suppers. But it is
+with the original &#8220;savory&#8221; as a piquant mouthful that they will take
+their place in this book. So important a part have they come to play in
+English <i>menus</i> (I am not now speaking of simple dinners) that the
+invention of a new &#8220;savory&#8221; is something to be proud of, and it is said
+that the very best are invented by the <i>bons vivants</i> themselves, seldom
+by the <i>chef</i>. One lady has written a book of which <i>savories</i> is the
+only branch of cooking treated, and she says<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> in her preface, &#8220;Savories
+being at present so fashionable, and novelties in them so eagerly
+inquired for, I have been induced to publish a small book on the
+subject.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>In looking over any list of small savories we find many of our old
+friends in it, such as <i>cheese canap&eacute;s</i>, <i>angels on horseback</i>, <i>anchovy
+toast</i>, etc. With these familiar dainties we will have nothing to do,
+only the mention of them will serve to show that any little piquant
+morsel may be used as an appetizer served as <i>hors d&#8217;&#339;uvres</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Savage Club Canap&eacute;s.</i>&mdash;These must be made small enough not to
+require dividing&mdash;in other words, can be eaten at one mouthful. Cut
+slices of stale Vienna bread a quarter of an inch thick, stamp out from
+them with a very small cutter circles about the size of a fifty-cent
+piece. Saut&eacute; these in a little hot butter till they are a very pale
+brown. Lay them on paper when done, to absorb grease. Stone as many
+small olives as you have guests; fillet half as many small<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span>
+anchovies&mdash;that is to say, split them, and remove the bones and scales;
+wash them, dry them, and roll each one up as small as possible, and
+insert it in an olive in place of the stone. Now trim one end of the
+olive so that it will stand; then put a drop of thick mayonnaise on the
+centre of one of the rounds of fried bread, which, of course, must be
+quite cold; stand the stuffed olive on it neatly, and put one drop of
+mayonnaise on the top, to cover the opening in the olive. A variation,
+and I think an improvement, on this bouch&eacute;e, is to use a little softened
+aspic to attach the olive, and a small quantity finely chopped to crown
+it. Still another plan is to put a tiny disk of bright-red beet on the
+top, using aspic to cement it there.</p>
+
+<p><i>Canap&eacute;s &aacute; la Bismarck.</i>&mdash;Cut circles with a small cutter from slices of
+stale bread a quarter of an inch thick; saut&eacute; in butter till they are a
+light brown; spread over each when cold a thin layer of anchovy butter;
+curl round on each an anchovy well washed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> boned, and trimmed; sprinkle
+very finely shred olives over them. Anchovy butter is two parts butter
+and one of anchovy paste.</p>
+
+<p><a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a><i>Caviare Canap&eacute;s.</i>&mdash;Cut some slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick;
+cut disks from them with a small round cutter; fry them pale brown in
+butter. When about to use them chop a large handful of water-cress
+leaves very fine, taking care to press them in a cloth to remove all
+water before you begin to chop; when they are almost as fine as pulp,
+mix with them an equal amount of butter; when well blended, spread each
+canap&eacute; with it, and spread a layer of caviare on the top.</p>
+
+<p><i>Prawns en Surprise.</i>&mdash;Cut some small rounds of bread and butter, not
+more than two inches in diameter and a quarter inch thick. Peel some
+prawns; steep them in mayonnaise sauce a few minutes; place three on
+each round of bread-and-butter, with a small piece of water-cress on
+each. Place over all some whipped aspic jelly; strew lobster coral over
+them.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span><i>Prince of Wales Canap&eacute;s.</i>&mdash;Take some fine prawns, three anchovies, two
+gherkins, and two truffles. Bone the anchovies and wash them, peel the
+prawns, and then cut all the ingredients into very small dice. Make a
+sauce as follows: Bruise a hard-boiled yolk of egg in a mortar with a
+tablespoonful of salad oil, a saltspoonful of mustard; mix with this an
+anchovy and a teaspoonful of tarragon that has been scalded and chopped;
+pound all well together, and pass through a sieve with a teaspoonful of
+tarragon vinegar and a speck of cayenne; mix enough of this with the
+prawns, etc., to season the mixture. Salt, it will be observed, is not
+mentioned, because the anchovies and prawns may be salt, but this can
+only be known to the cook by tasting. Butter some small water biscuits
+(crackers), put a small teaspoonful of the mixture on each, and cover
+with finely chopped aspic. Garnish by putting a spot of green gherkin on
+one, a spot of red beet on another, and on a third one of truffle, and
+so on alternately.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span><i>Shrimp Canap&eacute;s.</i>&mdash;Fry some rounds of bread as directed for other
+canap&eacute;s. Make some shrimp butter by pounding equal quantities of
+shrimps, from which heads, tails, and shells have been removed, and
+fresh butter till they form a smooth mass; spread the fried bread with
+it. Place whole shrimps on the top in the shape of a rosette, in the
+centre of which put a tiny pinch of chopped parsley.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cheese Biscuits &agrave; la St. James.</i>&mdash;Take three tablespoonfuls of the
+finest flour, half a pound of cream curds, and five ounces of Brie
+cheese, which has been carefully scraped, and a pinch of salt; pound all
+in a mortar; add five ounces of softened butter and three eggs, to make
+a very stiff paste, which must be rolled very thin, and cut into round
+biscuits. Bake in a very quick oven, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Kluskis of Cream Cheese.</i>&mdash;Take half a pound of fresh butter, six eggs,
+six tablespoonfuls of cream cheese, a pinch of powdered sugar, salt, and
+sufficient grated bread<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span> crumbs to make a paste, adding cream if it
+crumbles; mix well together, and roll into small balls; poach them in
+boiling water until firm (no longer). Serve hot, with a spoonful of
+poivrade sauce on each.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold Cheese Souffl&eacute;s.</i>&mdash;Grate one and a half ounces of Gruy&egrave;re cheese;
+the same of Parmesan. Whip half a pint of cream and a gill of aspic
+jelly to a high froth; stir in the cheese; season with salt, cayenne,
+and made mustard to taste. Fill little paper baskets or very small
+ramequin cases, grate cheese over the top, and set on ice to get firm.</p>
+
+<p>The above mixture may be frozen just as you would ice-cream, but very
+firm, then cut out in little cubes, and serve on canap&eacute;s of fried bread;
+it is then called &#8220;Cro&ucirc;tes de Fromage Glac&eacute;.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p><i>Oysters &agrave; la St. George.</i>&mdash;Take the beards from two dozen oysters; put
+the melt (or soft roe) of two Yarmouth bloaters into a saut&eacute; pan with
+two ounces of butter; dry and flour the oysters, and saut&eacute; them with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span>
+the melt. Have some squares of bread fried a nice light brown; place a
+nice piece of the melt on each square, and an oyster on top; squeeze a
+few drops of lemon juice on each, and serve very hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Allumettes.</i>&mdash;For these fantastic little trifles you require anchovies
+preserved in oil&mdash;not in salt; they are found at all Italian groceries
+and at the larger American grocers&#8217;. Wipe them free from scales and oil;
+cut each into long, thin strips. Have ready some plain pastry rolled
+very thin; envelop each strip of anchovy in pastry; pinch closely, so
+that it will not burst open, and fry in very hot fat for a half-minute,
+or saut&eacute; them in butter till crisp and yellow. Serve log-house fashion,
+using two allumettes for each crossing instead of one; put fried parsley
+in the corners, and serve very hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Eggs &agrave; la St. James.</i>&mdash;Take as many eggs as you have guests, and boil
+them hard in buttered dariole moulds; the moulds must be large enough to
+hold the egg when broken<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> into it, but not much larger. When quite cold
+remove the eggs; slice off the white at one end of each, taking care to
+preserve the shape. Scoop out the yolk; mix this with a teaspoonful of
+chopped truffles, a little pepper and salt, and put it back very neatly
+into the whites. Coat the eggs with aspic jelly several times. Serve
+them upside down, that is, the uncut part upward. Put a spoonful of
+half-mayonnaise (mayonnaise mixed with whipped cream) on each, and a few
+specks of chopped truffle.</p>
+
+<p>A variety of this dish has anchovy paste in very small quantity in place
+of truffle, and the mayonnaise just made pink with it.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XIX" id="XIX"></a>XIX.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">GALANTINES, BALLOTINES, ETC.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Galantines</span> are so useful and handsome a dish in a large family, or one
+where many visitors are received, that it is well worth while to learn
+the art of boning birds in order to achieve them. Nor, if the amateur
+cook is satisfied with the unambitious mode of boning hereafter to be
+described, need the achievement be very difficult.</p>
+
+<p>Experts bone a bird whole without breaking the skin, but to accomplish
+it much practice is required; and even where it is desirable to preserve
+the shape of the bird, as when it is to be braised, or roasted and
+glazed for serving cold, it can be managed with care if boned the easier
+way. However, if nice white milk-fed veal can be obtained, a very
+excellent galantine may be made from it, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> to my mind to be preferred
+to fowl, because, as a matter of fact, when boned there is such a thin
+sheet of meat that it but serves as a covering for the force-meat (very
+often sausage-meat), and although it makes a savory and handsome dish,
+it really is only glorified sausage-meat, much easier to produce in some
+other way. This is, of course, not the case with turkey; but a boned
+turkey is so large a dish that a private family might find it too much
+except for special occasions. On the other hand, galantines of game,
+although the birds may be still smaller, are so full of flavor that it
+overwhelms that of the dressing.</p>
+
+<p>The following process of boning, however, applies to all birds. To
+accomplish the work with ease and success, a French boning-knife is
+desirable, but in the absence of one a sharp-pointed case-knife may do.
+Place the bird before you, breast down, with the head towards you. Cut a
+straight line down the back through skin and flesh to the bone. Release
+with the left thumb and forefinger the skin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> and flesh on the left side
+nearest to you, and with the right hand keep cutting away the flesh from
+the bone, pulling it away clear as it is cut with the left hand. When
+you reach the wing joint cut it clean away, leaving the bone in the
+wing, and continue cutting with the knife close to the bone until all
+the meat from the left breast is released. Return to the back and
+continue to separate the meat from the bone, always keeping the edge of
+the knife pressed close to the latter, until the leg is reached; twist
+it round, which will enable you to get the skin over it, and cut the
+joint from the body bone. Proceed with the right side in the same way,
+using your left hand for cutting and your right to free the meat (to
+some this would be very awkward, and when it is so turn the bird round).
+The bird will now be clear of the carcass. Lay the bird flat on the
+board, inside upward, then cut out the wing-bone and proceed to the
+legs; cut the meat on the inside of each thigh down to the bone and
+clear the meat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span> from it, cutting it each side until you can lift the
+bone out; then free the drumstick in the same way.</p>
+
+<p>If it be intended to stuff the bird in form, it would be necessary to
+bone the leg and wings from the inside, but for a galantine it is
+useless trouble, as they are to be drawn inside the bird. Spread out the
+bird, having drawn legs and wings inside, season with a teaspoonful of
+salt and half a saltspoonful of white pepper mixed together, and rubbed
+over the flesh, which must have been made as even as possible by cutting
+the thick parts and spreading them over the thin ones. If there are any
+bits of meat clinging to the bones they must be carefully gathered
+together and chopped with a pound of veal and two ounces of lean cold
+boiled ham, with four ounces of fat, sweet, salt pork. (Butter may be
+substituted if pork is objected to). When all is chopped as fine as
+sausage-meat, season rather highly with pepper and salt. Spread a layer
+an inch thick over the bird; then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span> add some long strips of tongue, some
+black truffles cut into dice half an inch square, and a few pistachio
+nuts. Dispose these, which may be called the ornamental adjuncts of the
+galantine, judiciously, so that when cut cold they will be well
+distributed. Cover carefully with another layer of force-meat, fold both
+sides over so that the force-meat will be well enclosed, form it into a
+bolster-shaped roll, tie it up in a linen cloth securely with string at
+each end, and sew the cloth evenly along the middle, so that the shape
+will keep even. Put it into a stewpan with stock enough to cover it, two
+onions, two carrots sliced, a stick of celery, a small bunch of parsley,
+a dozen peppercorns, an ounce of salt, and the bones of the bird, well
+cracked. Let it <i>simmer gently</i> for three hours and a half. Take it up,
+strain the liquor, and let the galantine get nearly cold. Take off the
+cloth; wring it quite dry; put it on again, rolling the galantine as
+tight as possible; tie firmly, and place it on a platter;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> cover with
+another platter, and place a heavy weight upon it to press it into
+shape. Let the stock get cold. Take off the grease. Add a
+half-teaspoonful of sugar and the juice of a quarter of a lemon to the
+stock, and reduce by rapid boiling to a half-glaze, that is to say, a
+jelly firm enough to cut into forms without being tough. Clear with
+white of egg in the usual way, and when quite transparent pour part into
+shallow dishes, leaving enough to cover the galantine. Color one dish a
+rich clear brown; leave the rest light. When the jelly thickens, but is
+not quite set, cover the galantine with it half an inch thick. When the
+jelly is cold, cut it into what are called <i>cro&ucirc;tons</i>, which may mean
+vandyked strips, to be laid across, triangles, squares, or any fancy
+shapes; the pieces and trimmings are chopped to scatter over the dish or
+lay in small piles round.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ballotines</i> are small galantines made by treating small birds as
+directed in last recipe, only that the force-meat should have a larger<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span>
+proportion of truffles, and be made of the same kind of bird; for
+instance, grouse would have rich force-meat of grouse. One grouse,
+however, would make two or four ballotines; quails make two, to be
+served as individuals.</p>
+
+<p><i>Galantine of Breast of Veal.</i>&mdash;Bone a breast of young white veal very
+carefully, spread it out as flat as possible on the board, pare the meat
+at the ends for about an inch so that the skin may project beyond. Take
+all the scraps of meat that may have come from boning, provided they are
+not sinewy; take also twelve ounces of veal cutlet, and half the
+quantity of fat unsmoked bacon. Chop very fine, seasoning all rather
+highly. When the meat is fine, season the inside of the veal. Mix with
+the force-meat tongue, truffles, and pistachio-nuts or olives, all cut
+into half-inch dice (the tongue larger). So mix these that they will
+come at regular intervals through the stuffing. Roll the breast round
+the stuffing, which is not spread, but laid in a mass, and sew the veal
+together.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> Fasten it up in a cloth, tie securely at the ends, then tie
+bands of tape round at intervals to keep it in shape.</p>
+
+<p>Braise this galantine for six hours in stock, which may be made of a
+small knuckle of veal and the bones and trimmings. Vegetables as
+directed for chicken galantine.</p>
+
+<p>Let the galantine be cold before it is untied. Garnish and glaze as
+directed for chicken.</p>
+
+<p>Galantine is occasionally made of sucking pig, and is very popular in
+France. The pig must be carefully boned, all but the head and feet. A
+sufficient quantity of veal, of fat unsmoked bacon, and of bread panada
+must be chopped and pounded to make enough force-meat to stuff the pig
+in the proportion of one part bacon, two panada, and three of veal,
+seasoned with a teaspoonful of onion juice and two of powdered sage.</p>
+
+<p>The pig&#8217;s liver must have been boiled in stock, and cut in dice. There
+must be fillets or strips of rabbit or chicken, a few chopped<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> truffles
+and olives. Mix well. Lay in the fillets as you stuff the pig, and when
+full sew up the opening. Try to keep the shape as near as possible. Then
+braise slowly for four to five hours, as directed for galantine of veal.
+Do not remove the cloth till it is cold.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XX" id="XX"></a>XX.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">HOW TO &#8220;FILLET.&#8221;&mdash;COLD GAME PIES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">I have</span> spoken several times of &#8220;filleting.&#8221; To some readers an
+explanation of the term may be necessary. To &#8220;cut up&#8221; a bird does not
+indicate the meaning, nor does the term &#8220;to carve&#8221; it do so, because to
+carve means to cut up or divide with an exact observance of joints and
+&#8220;cuts.&#8221; Filleting, when applied to anything without bones, as the breast
+of a bird or boned fish, means to cut into very neat strips that are
+thicker than slices; but when you are directed to &#8220;fillet&#8221; a grouse or a
+chicken, it is intended that you should cut it into small neat portions
+regardless of joints and without the least mangling of it; therefore a
+very sharp knife must be used, and either a small sharp cleaver or a
+large cook&#8217;s knife only to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> be employed when a bone has to be cut
+through.</p>
+
+<p><i>To Fillet Cooked Birds: Grouse, Pheasants, or Poultry.</i>&mdash;Cut the bird
+in half straight down the middle of the breast-bone, using a large sharp
+knife for the purpose. Lay each half on the table and take out the
+breast-bone from either side. If the bird is a large fowl, duck, or
+partridge, each breast will make three fillets, and leave a good piece
+with the wing, but average birds only make two breast fillets. Chop off
+the pinions within an inch of the meat, then cut the wing in two neatly;
+drumsticks are to be chopped off close to the meat, and divided into two
+fillets (if a large chicken or duck; leave game whole); cut the thigh in
+two also. Trim very neatly; leave no hanging skin; indeed, when
+filleting for <i>chaudfroids</i> the skin should be entirely removed, and
+both it and the leg-bones are removed for pies. When possible, it is
+better not to use the drumsticks. From a chicken they make an admirable
+&#8220;devil,&#8221; and from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> game they help the bones and trimmings to make a rich
+gravy; so it is no waste to discard them.</p>
+
+<p>Cold pies are of two kinds: the one cooked in a terrine or dish without
+pastry; the other in what the English call a &#8220;raised paste,&#8221; and the
+French a <i>p&acirc;te chaude</i>. Those with paste&mdash;which is seldom eaten&mdash;are far
+handsomer, but do not keep so well&mdash;that is to say, they must be eaten
+within three or four days even in winter; while in a terrine carefully
+kept in a cool airy place the pie will be good at the end of three
+weeks.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, the pie in a terrine is much less trouble to make.
+Proceed as follows:</p>
+
+<p><i>Game Pie.</i>&mdash;Make some force-meat thus: Fry a quarter of a pound of fat
+ham cut in dice with half a pound of lean veal. Take the ham up before
+it gets brown, as you do not need it crisp; when the veal is cooked take
+that up also, and if there is enough of the ham fat in the pan, put in
+half a pound<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> of calf&#8217;s liver cut up in dice, if not, saut&eacute; it in
+butter. In saut&eacute;ing all these they must be often stirred, as you want
+them well cooked and yet not very brown. When done they must be finely
+chopped, then pounded in a mortar, with a small teaspoonful of salt, and
+half a saltspoonful of pepper. Then add a dozen mushrooms chopped, and
+mix the whole.</p>
+
+<p>A game pie is usually made rather large, and the greater variety of game
+used, the better; partridge, pheasant, grouse, hare, all help one
+another, but at least two kinds are necessary. It must be boned and
+neatly filleted into small joints. Put on all the bones and trimmings to
+stew in three pints of water, with a good-sized carrot, onion, a stick
+of celery, a small bouquet, a clove, a teaspoonful of sugar, one of
+salt, and a little pepper; boil all this until the bones look white and
+dry when out of the stock. Strain, and reduce by rapid boiling to a
+half-glaze; put a layer of the force-meat at the bottom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> of the dish,
+then one of boned game, with a sprinkling of pepper and salt, and either
+a little finely chopped parsley or, what is far better, a few thin
+slices of truffles; pour over a little of the reduced stock; fill the
+dish in this way to within an inch of the top; make a plain
+flour-and-water paste, lay it on the pie, and make a hole in the centre,
+bake slowly in a pan of hot water. When cold, remove the paste, cover
+the top with chopped aspic, fold a napkin, and serve the terrine on it,
+with a wreath of parsley round the base. Game pie is not a dish to be
+eaten at one or even two meals (unless very small), therefore the aspic
+must be fresh each time it is served.</p>
+
+<p><i>French Method of Making a Game Pie or P&acirc;te Chaude.</i>&mdash;Make a paste of
+two pounds of flour and one of lard or butter, with salt to taste and
+about half a pint of water; knead it into a smooth, rather hard paste;
+put it into a damp napkin for an hour. Butter a raised pie dish&mdash;a tin
+one that opens to release the pie&mdash;line it with the paste rolled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> half
+an inch thick, letting it come half an inch above the dish; line the
+inside of the paste with buttered paper, bottom and sides, and fill with
+rice or corn meal; cover with another piece of buttered paper, wet the
+top of the pastry all round, and lay a cover of thin pastry over it;
+trim very neatly, make a hole in the centre, and ornament with leaves
+cut from the paste and laid on; the under side should be slightly
+moistened to make them adhere. Brush the surface with well-beaten egg,
+and bake about an hour, when it should be a nice golden brown. Take off
+the cover; after it has slightly cooled, remove the rice or meal and the
+buttered paper; take the case from the mould, and brush it all over with
+egg inside and out; set it in the oven until the glazing dries, and any
+part that may not be sufficiently brown becomes the color of the cover,
+which, being glazed at first, is not returned to the oven.</p>
+
+<p><i>Preparation for Filling the Case.</i>&mdash;Fillet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> chickens, guinea-hens,
+partridges, or grouse (leave pigeons or quails whole, but bone them).
+Put sufficient pieces of one sort, or all sorts mixed, to fill the p&acirc;te
+chaude case into a saut&eacute; pan, with two ounces of butter, and saut&eacute; till
+lightly colored. Take them out, and put them in a stewpan with a quart
+of reduced consomm&eacute;, half a pint of mushrooms sliced, a dozen truffles
+cut into dice (half-inch), a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and a
+wineglass of sherry, and let them simmer very gently, <i>not boil</i>, for
+half an hour, or until very tender. Let them cool, and when lukewarm
+arrange them in the p&acirc;te case, leaving the centre hollow, which fill
+with mushrooms and truffles. The liquor in which they were stewed must
+be then poured over them. The cover of a p&acirc;te chaude case is often not
+used, and aspic jelly covers the top of the pie.</p>
+
+<p><i>English Manner of Making Game Pie in a Crust.</i>&mdash;Use at least two kinds
+of game, which for this purpose must not be long kept;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span> high game is
+acceptable to epicures when roasted or stewed, but never in a pie.
+Discard all parts blackened by shot. Cut into neat joints, from which
+bones must be removed. Take all the fragments from the carcass after the
+breast and joints are removed, and the flesh of a small bird or hare,
+or, failing that, some calf&#8217;s liver fried in dice; pound whichever you
+may have for force-meat in a mortar with four ounces of bacon that has
+been boiled; when the whole forms a paste (from which you have removed
+all strings, sinew, or gristle while pounding), season with pepper and
+salt&mdash;a teaspoonful of salt to a pound of force-meat, and a scant half
+saltspoonful of pepper. Put on the bones, <i>without vegetables</i>, in cold
+water to simmer until it is a rich broth, which strain, and boil rapidly
+till a little set on ice in a saucer will jelly. Make what is called
+&#8220;raised&#8221; paste in the following way: To two pounds of flour use three
+quarters of a pound of butter and half a pint of scalding<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> milk; pour
+this into a hole in the centre of the flour, and knead into a firm
+paste, adding a little more milk if necessary (but it seldom is). This
+paste is not to be rolled, but beaten out with the hand while warm to
+half an inch thickness. Line a well-buttered meat-pie mould, with a
+hinge opening at the side; leave half an inch of paste above the mould;
+trim off neatly with scissors. Then lay in the game and force-meat in
+alternate layers, seasoning the joints with pepper and salt as you lay
+them. A few slices of tongue and truffles to form one layer are
+desirable. When the mould is full, lay on the cover, moisten the under
+edge, and pinch round in tiny scallops. Make a hole in the centre, round
+which put an ornament; stick in a bone to prevent the hole closing, and
+bake two to four hours in a moderate oven, according to size,
+remembering always that the crust will not be injured by long baking,
+and that the game in this pie is uncooked. When it is removed from the
+oven, let it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> stand half an hour, taking the mould off, that it may
+cool; then brush the sides and top with an egg beaten with milk, and
+return the pie to the oven that the sides may brown; cover the top, if
+it is already highly colored, with a sheet of paper. Remove the bone
+from the centre, insert a small funnel, and after removing all fat from
+it, pour in the gravy from the bones. The gravy must be poured very
+slowly or it will bubble up, and care must be taken to have all the pie
+will hold, yet not a drop too much, or it will ooze somewhere. These
+pies, when quite cold, may be sent any distance, and are much used in
+England and Scotland for hunting-parties, besides being a standard
+breakfast and luncheon dish. The crust is merely a frame to hold the
+game.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXI" id="XXI"></a>XXI.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">GARNISHES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">In</span> all choice cookery the appearance of dishes has to be carefully
+studied. However good the taste may be, the effect will be spoiled if
+its appearance on the table does not come up to the expectation raised
+by the name on the <i>menu</i>. For this reason the subject of garnishes
+requires to be considered apart from the dishes they adorn. In the old
+time garnishes were few and simple, and when not simple, very ugly, as
+the camellias cut from turnips and stained with beet juice. Nowadays
+garnishes are many, and many so termed form part of the dish, as what
+are termed, &#8220;floating garnishes for soup,&#8221; quenelles, etc. Garnishes
+that are merely ornamental need not be so expensively made as those
+intended for eating. Foremost among<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span> fashionable floating garnishes for
+soup are the colored custards known as p&acirc;te royale; they are perfectly
+easy to make, yet very effective served in clear bouillon.</p>
+
+<p><i>Colored Custard.</i>&mdash;Prepare the custard with five yolks of eggs, a gill
+of cream or strong bouillon, and a pinch of salt; butter small saucers
+or cups; divide the custard in three&mdash;color one with spinach juice or
+pulp of green asparagus, another with red tomato pulp or the pulp of red
+carrot boiled, and a third with pulp of beets. A few drops of cochineal
+may be added to intensify the color of the last, which is apt to be a
+beautiful pink instead of red. The custard for which pulps are used must
+be strained after they are added, expressing as much of the juice as
+possible. The custard should be flavored delicately with the vegetable
+used for color.</p>
+
+<p><i>Spinach Juice</i> is very frequently directed to be used as coloring, but
+scarcely anywhere is any indication given that the juice without
+preparation is of very little use. It should<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span> be prepared as follows:
+Take a large handful of fresh green spinach, wash it, and remove decayed
+leaves only; drain well, then pound in a mortar or chopping-bowl until
+quite mashed. Let it stand a quarter of an hour, then squeeze the mass
+in a cloth, and put the green water into a cup, which set over the fire
+in a small saucepan of water; watch the scum rise; when it stands quite
+thick at the top and turns a vivid green, remove at once (if it remains
+on the fire after this the green darkens); pour the contents of the cup
+through cheese-cloth or thin muslin laid in a strainer. The scum that
+remains is your coloring matter. It must be carefully scraped off with a
+spoon, and mix with the custard only as much as is required to give a
+delicate green tint. If any is left it may be mixed with an equal
+quantity of salt and put away; it loses color, however, after a few
+days.</p>
+
+<p>The colored custards must be set in water, a small piece of buttered
+paper over each,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> and the water allowed to boil gently round them till
+they are firm. Let them get quite cold; then cut them into cubes or
+diamonds.</p>
+
+<p><i>Profiterolles.</i>&mdash;Perhaps the next in popularity of these floating
+garnishes are <i>profiterolles</i>, or &#8220;prophet&#8217;s rolls,&#8221; as cooks call them.
+They are made exactly like those intended for dessert, omitting
+sweetening of course, and a very small quantity is required, as they
+must be dropped no larger than a pea, and baked a <i>pale</i> fawn-color.</p>
+
+<p>Put a gill of water and a pinch of salt and two ounces of butter in a
+small saucepan; as soon as they begin to boil draw the saucepan back and
+stir in four ounces of flour; beat well over the fire with a wooden
+spoon until it becomes a soft paste, then add the yolks of two eggs and
+white of one, beating each yolk in separately. It will be seen that the
+paste is similar to that made for cream cakes.</p>
+
+<p>A similar garnish is made in the following way: Beat an egg with a pinch
+of salt, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> then stir in as much dry sifted flour as the egg will
+moisten; work it well with the hands till it is elastic, although stiff.
+Roll it on a pastry board until it is as thin as paper, then roll it on
+a clean linen cloth still thinner, and leave it a quarter of an hour to
+dry. Then fold the paste, press it very tightly together, and with a tin
+cylinder, not larger in diameter than a cent, cut out, with considerable
+pressure, as many small disks as you require to allow five or six to
+each plate of soup. Have ready in a small saucepan some <i>smoking hot</i>
+lard. Drop the disks in; they will puff and swell till they are like
+marbles. Stir them, and take them out of the fat; they require only a
+few seconds to brown, and must be taken out very pale. Add to the soup
+the last thing before serving.</p>
+
+<p>While aspic jelly is certainly the handsomest of garnishes for cold
+dishes, it is generally part of the food itself, and should not be so
+lavishly used that when helped there is more jelly than meat served.
+Where the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> jelly is intended only for a garnish not to be eaten, simple
+gelatine is sufficient. For instance, a large platter containing a
+galantine or a <i>chaudfroid</i> may have a handsome wreath glued on the
+border, of red and green leaves, or holly leaves and red berries, or any
+device that need not be disturbed by the carver.</p>
+
+<p>For such decorations as these gelatine is melted in proportion of three
+ounces to a scant quart of water, cleared with white of egg, and then
+colored pale yellow with caramel or saffron, vivid red with cochineal,
+and bright green with spinach; it saves time and trouble to let this
+congeal on dishes in thin sheets. Small cutters of ivy, oak, and other
+leaves can readily be purchased at the large house-furnishing stores.</p>
+
+<p>One word here about uneatable decorations, never admit them at a
+children&#8217;s party; they are the very part of the feast the little people
+will most crave; red leaves for them must be of red currant-jelly,
+yellow of white, etc.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span>&#8220;Forced butter&#8221; is another form of garnish which adds much to the
+appearance of glazed ham or tongue. It is butter beaten to a white
+cream, then put in a forcer, and a pattern traced on the ham, which must
+be followed just as in icing a cake.</p>
+
+<p><i>A Few Ways of Cooking Vegetables.</i>&mdash;It is not intended to go into the
+general cooking of vegetables, although it may be said that even the
+choicest cooking can offer no greater luxury, or, alas! a greater
+rarity, than a dish of early peas or asparagus <i>perfectly cooked</i>. But
+this is not the place to remedy the wholesale spoiling of summer
+vegetables that goes on in almost every kitchen. I will only give what
+may be a few new ways of preparing familiar vegetables.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed Artichokes.</i>&mdash;Wash the artichokes; boil till nearly tender;
+drain them; remove the middle leaves and &#8220;chokes&#8221; (this is the fibrous
+part round the base); lay in each a little rich force-meat, and put them
+in the oven to cook until the meat is done. Serve with rich brown
+gravy.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span><i>Fried Artichokes.</i>&mdash;Cut in slices lengthwise; remove the chokes, cut
+off the tops of the leaves, wash them in vinegar and water, drain them,
+and dip them in frying batter. Fry in very hot oil or lard. Serve with
+fried parsley sprinkled with salt.</p>
+
+<p><i>Beet-root Fritters.</i>&mdash;Cut boiled beets in slices; slice raw onions;
+scald them; dry them well; then lay one slice of onion, sprinkled with
+chopped chervil, pepper, and salt, between two slices of beet. Dip them
+carefully in frying batter, and plunge into boiling fat; when pale brown
+take them up.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cauliflower Fritters.</i>&mdash;Parboil the cauliflower&mdash;that is to say, boil
+until it begins to be tender&mdash;about fifteen minutes; then plunge it into
+ice-cold water; this keeps it white. Break it up into branches. Dip each
+one into thick b&eacute;chamel sauce slightly warmed; let them get cold; then
+take each piece separately and dip it into carefully made frying batter,
+and drop them into boiling lard; fry a pale brown, and serve garnished
+with fried parsley.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXII" id="XXII"></a>XXII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING VEGETABLES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Stuffed Cucumbers.</i>&mdash;Cut large-sized young cucumbers into slices about
+two inches thick, rejecting the ends. Peel, and remove the seeds; scald
+the slices for ten minutes, plunge them into cold water, and drain them.
+Line a fire-proof china dish with very thin slices of unsmoked bacon
+which has been scalded; make some veal force-meat such as directed for
+galantines; fill the holes in the centre of the rings of cucumber till
+it is level with the surface on both sides; wrap each up in a slice of
+bacon broad enough to cover it. Tie round with a string, pour a pint of
+strong stock into the dish, and bake twenty minutes in a slow oven. When
+done, take up the cucumber, drain, and remove the bacon carefully so as
+not to disturb the stuffing. Lay in a dish, and serve with Robert
+sauce.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span>In the following recipes the mushrooms to be used are the large flap
+ones. When canned ones will serve, the fact will be stated.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mushrooms Stuffed &agrave; la Lucullus.</i>&mdash;Wash, dry, and trim large mushrooms;
+chop up the stalks and broken ones fine with a teaspoonful of minced
+parsley, pepper, salt, and a tomato; make these hot in a tablespoonful
+of butter. Fill the mushrooms with the mixture, place them on a buttered
+baking-dish, and bake six minutes, basting them once or twice with
+clarified butter.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mushrooms and Tomatoes.</i>&mdash;Toast some slices of bread, cut them into
+rounds two inches in diameter, and butter them. Peel some firm tomatoes,
+cut them into thick slices, and lay them on the toast. On the top of
+each place a peeled mushroom. Put them on a dish that can go to table,
+pour a little clarified butter over them, put them in a hot oven for
+three minutes, and baste well. Serve hot and quickly.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mushroom Jelly.</i>&mdash;Take two pounds of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span> mushrooms, put them in a stewpan
+over the fire with a gill of strong consomm&eacute;. Squeeze in a few drops of
+lemon juice, add a little pepper and salt, unless the consomm&eacute; was salt
+enough. Melt in a gill of water half an ounce of gelatine, and strain
+it. When the mushrooms are quite soft, pass them through a sieve, mixed
+with the gelatine, and pour the mixture into a mould which has been
+rinsed with water. When set, turn out and garnish with finely chopped
+aspic, and a few cherry tomatoes if in season.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mushroom Baskets.</i>&mdash;Make some puff-paste; roll it out <i>very</i> thin. Line
+some small suitably shaped moulds (darioles will do very nicely); fill
+the centre with uncooked rice or flour to keep the shape while baking;
+cut some strips of paste, twist them, and bend them into the shape of
+handles; bake them very pale. When the pastry cases are done, empty out
+the rice, remove them from the moulds, and fill with the following
+mixture: chop as many canned mushrooms as you re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span>quire with a small
+shallot, squeeze to them the juice and pulp of a large tomato, and put
+them in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of
+very thick white sauce. Stir till about the consistency to eat with a
+fork. Squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over the top. Put the handles
+in so that they stand over the tops. Decorate with fried parsley.</p>
+
+<p>The large Spanish or Portuguese onion that has of late years appeared in
+the markets is not often properly cooked. It is the most delicate and
+delicious of all onions, lacking the usual intense heat and rank odor.
+For this reason persons who wish to eat onions, either for health or
+inclination, will find this large onion cut up with ordinary salad
+dressing a great improvement even on Bermudas. This onion is full of a
+milky juice, which is lost in cooking if it is cut. Therefore, where a
+simple dish is required, the best way is to boil it, without peeling or
+trimming, for three hours if it weighs three pounds (it must be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> tender
+right through); then take it up, strip it, and remove the root, stalk,
+etc. Pour over it a rich white sauce, and serve, taking care that the
+gravy that runs from the onion is served with it. A still better way
+when an oven is not wanted is to bake them. Put them in a dripping-pan
+in the oven without removing peel or stalk. Bake at least four hours in
+a moderate oven. It will burn and blacken outside, which is of no
+consequence. Keep it turned so that the darkening may not go deeper one
+side than the other. When quite tender (but do not try it until it
+begins to shrink, or you will let out the juices), so that a
+knitting-needle will run through it, take it out of the oven, strip off
+three or four skins, remove root and stalk, and place the onion, without
+breaking it, on a dish; put a piece of butter as large as an egg, with a
+saltspoonful of salt and a quarter one of pepper worked in it, on the
+onion; cover it, and put in the oven till the butter melts, and serve
+very hot.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span><i>Stuffed Spanish Onion.</i>&mdash;Parboil a Spanish onion; then drop it into
+ice-water; take out the centre and fill it with force-meat; cover with a
+thin slice of sweet fat pork; sprinkle with a teaspoonful of salt and
+the same of sugar; add four tablespoonfuls of stock, cover closely, and
+cook over a good fire. When the onion is tender, take it up, remove the
+pork, strain and skim the gravy, pour it over, and serve. The best
+force-meat for the stuffing is made of cold chicken, a shred of boiled
+ham, a little chopped parsley, half a dozen mushrooms, all chopped well
+and mixed with a tablespoonful of butter and pepper and salt.</p>
+
+<p><i>Potatoes &agrave; la Proven&ccedil;ale.</i>&mdash;Mash and pass through a wire sieve two
+pounds of potatoes; season with pepper and salt. Grate two ounces of
+Gruy&egrave;re (Swiss) cheese, pound it with enough butter to make a paste, add
+a gill of milk and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; put this in a saut&eacute;
+pan, add the potato, mix all well, and stir until the mass is pale
+brown; serve as a pyramid.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span><i>Milanese Potatoes.</i>&mdash;Bake large potatoes till just tender; cut off the
+tops, which keep. Scoop out the potatoes, but do not break the skin.
+Mash the inside with butter, pepper, salt, and grated Parmesan; about a
+teaspoonful of butter and cheese to each will be the right proportion.
+Beat the potato mixture with a fork for a minute to make it light,
+refill the skins, put on the covers, and heat them in the oven.</p>
+
+<p><i>Scalloped Potatoes.</i>&mdash;Mash two pounds of potatoes with milk, and pass
+through a sieve; add three ounces of butter melted, two ounces of grated
+Parmesan cheese, and a little pepper and salt. Fill shells with this
+mixture, and brown them in the oven. Glaze them over with butter melted
+and grated Parmesan; return one minute to the hottest part of the oven.
+Serve very hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tomato Jelly.</i>&mdash;Two pounds of tomatoes, half a grain of red pepper, and
+two small shallots. Place them in a stewpan and boil till quite soft.
+Melt half an ounce of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span> gelatine in as little white stock as possible;
+add this to the tomatoes, and strain; if not perfectly clear, clarify
+with white of egg in the usual way. Mould, and serve with chopped aspic
+round it. A little grated Parmesan may be sometimes sprinkled over it
+for a change.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tomato Souffl&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Prepare some tomato pulp, taking care to boil it down
+if too liquid; stir in the yolks of three eggs, then the whites well
+beaten; salt to taste. Fill either a large souffl&eacute; case or several small
+ones. Bake in a hot oven till it rises very high and is set in the
+centre; serve instantly.</p>
+
+<p><i>Spinach Fritters.</i>&mdash;Boil the spinach till it is quite tender; drain,
+press, and mince it fine; add half the quantity of grated stale bread,
+one grate of nutmeg, and a <i>small</i> teaspoonful of sugar; add a gill of
+cream and as many eggs as will make a batter, beating the whites
+separately; pepper and salt to taste. Drop a little from a spoon into
+boiling lard; if it separates, add a little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span> more crumb of bread; when
+they rise to the surface of the fat they are done. Drain them, and serve
+very quickly, or they will fall.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXIII" id="XXIII"></a>XXIII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">JELLIES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">In</span> this country culinary skill seems to run to sweet rather than to
+savory cooking; very few housekeepers but make excellent preserves and
+cakes, yet the list of sweet dishes manufactured at home is very
+limited; as soon as anything not in this category is required the
+caterer is applied to, and he has his list of water-ices, cream-ices,
+and m&eacute;ringues, with very little variation; sometimes, indeed, a new name
+appears on the list, but it turns out to be some old friend with a new
+garnish, or put in a different mould and given an alluring name. There
+are many delicious sweet dishes not difficult to make when once the
+processes of making jelly and of freezing are understood (and very many
+who do not pretend to be good cooks<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span> are expert at these two things),
+and others which do not require even that ability. To put a sweet dish
+on the table, however, in perfection, especially if it be an iced one,
+requires the utmost care and skill; the slightest carelessness in
+packing a frozen pudding, any delay between removing it from the ice and
+getting it on the dish, will destroy that dull, marble-like appearance
+it ought to wear when first it makes its entry, although it will gleam
+with melting sweetness long before it reaches the partakers. Happily
+there are many delightful sweets which are beautiful in appearance and
+less depending on atmosphere than any of the family of ices. The
+simplest of these are fruit jellies.</p>
+
+<p>I spoke just now of the art of making jelly, and many readers may think
+in using such a term for so simple a thing I am exaggerating, and
+perhaps &#8220;art&#8221; is hardly the word, yet there is a daintiness and nicety
+in making jelly which almost deserves the term.</p>
+
+<p>However, before talking of how sweet dish<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span>es are to be made it is
+necessary to provide the means by which they are to be redeemed from the
+commonplace of mere richness and sweetness. The flavorings and liqueurs
+keep indefinitely if well corked. Orange-flower water, it is true, will
+lose strength, but when a bottle is first opened, if it is poured off
+into small vials, and each one corked and <i>sealed</i>, it will keep its
+original strength. The following list of articles kept in store will
+enable a cook to give her cakes, creams, etc., just that &#8220;foreign&#8221;
+flavor that home products so often lack: almonds, almond paste, candied
+cherries, candied angelica, candied orange, lemon, and citron peels,
+pistachio-nuts, orange-flower water, rose-water, prepared cochineal,
+maraschino, ratafia, lemons, extract of vanilla, and sherry.</p>
+
+<p>Several of these things are used principally for decoration; for
+instance, the candied cherries and angelica and the pistachio-nuts.
+Consequently, unless the cherries and angelica are required for dessert
+(to which they are a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> showy and delicious addition), a quarter of a
+pound at a time is all that need be bought. Very likely in small cities
+or country places these latter articles may not be obtainable. But they
+are sold at the large city caterers&#8217;, also at the stores which deal in
+French crystallized fruits&mdash;not French <i>candy</i> stores&mdash;and can always be
+sent by mail.</p>
+
+<p>The vanilla should be of the finest quality, and had better be bought by
+the ounce or half-pint from the druggist than from the grocer. There are
+good extracts put up, no doubt, but very many of them are largely made
+of tonka-bean, the flavor familiar in cheap ice-cream, in place of the
+more expensive vanilla.</p>
+
+<p>In the recipes that will be given the directions will be as minute as
+possible; but to prescribe the number of drops required to flavor a
+quart of cream would be utterly impossible, the strength of the
+flavoring used differing so greatly, even in lemons. Sometimes the juice
+of half a lemon will be right<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> for a certain thing, at another the juice
+of a quarter of one would be too much. This is where judgment must be
+exercised. If you have a very juicy lemon, although your recipe says the
+juice of half, you will remember that the average lemon would not yield
+nearly so much, and that the author had the average lemon in mind. This
+applies to all flavoring. Sometimes extract of bitter almond is so
+strong that even a drop would be too much to impart the faint almond
+flavor which alone is tolerable. In this case the thing to do for fear
+of spoiling the dish is to pour a half-dozen drops in a teaspoonful of
+water, and use from that, drop by drop, until the faint flavor desired
+is attained. In using any flavoring, great care must be taken not to put
+too much, as anything in the least over-flavored is offensive.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mould of Apple Jelly.</i>&mdash;Peel and cut up a pound of fine-flavored apples
+(to weigh a pound after preparation); put them in a stewpan with three
+ounces of granulated sugar,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span> half a pint of water, and the juice and
+grated rind of a lemon. When cooked to a pulp, pass through a strainer,
+and stir in one ounce of gelatine that has been dissolved in a gill of
+water. Color half the apple with <i>about</i> half a teaspoonful of
+cochineal, and fill a border mould with alternate layers of the colored
+and uncolored apple. When cold, turn out and serve with half a pint of
+cream whipped solid and piled in the centre.</p>
+
+<p>There is a great difference in the solidity of whipped cream. Sometimes
+it will be a mere froth that shows a disposition to liquefy, and cannot
+be piled up. When this is the case there is always a great waste of
+cream, for at least half will have been left as a milky residue. The
+reason for this failure of the cream to whip solid is generally because
+it is too fresh or too warm.</p>
+
+<p>If in proper condition, cream will whip as solid as white of eggs, and
+leave not a teaspoonful of liquid at the bottom of the bowl; nor will
+there be the least danger of cream<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span> so whipped going back to liquid. It
+will become sour, but not change its form; and it will take but a few
+minutes to beat.</p>
+
+<p>Cream intended for whipping should be twenty-four hours old in warm
+weather, and thirty-six in winter. It should also be thoroughly chilled,
+and if the day is very warm it would be better to set the bowl
+containing it on ice while whipping it. Put in the whip, or egg-beater,
+and <i>do not</i> lift the froth off as it rises; it is quite unnecessary if
+the vessel you use for the cream is large enough. As you see it begin to
+thicken, which will be after steady beating for five or six minutes,
+keep on just as you would for white of eggs. When the beater is
+withdrawn you should be able to cut the cream or pile it any height. If
+by reason of excessive heat it is slow in reaching the proper
+consistency, leave the beater in the bowl, and set the whole on the ice
+until very cold again.</p>
+
+<p>The consistency of jelly should be only just stiff enough to keep form.
+It should<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span> shake and tremble while being served instead of remaining
+solid. It requires some little practice to make sure of this every time,
+although exact proportions be given. A tablespoonful difference in the
+pint or gill measure would, where the gelatine is only just enough,
+cause the jelly to &#8220;squat&#8221;&mdash;not an elegant term, but one that represents
+the form of a too soft jelly.</p>
+
+<p>A very exact recipe for plain claret jelly, and which in proportions
+serves for any other unless special mention is made of some variation,
+is as follows: Three quarters of a pint of water, one pint of claret, a
+quarter of a pint of lemon juice (this makes one quart of liquid), the
+rind of one lemon, half an inch of cinnamon in the stick and two cloves,
+one tablespoonful of red currant jelly, two ounces of gelatine, the
+whites and shells of two eggs, a few drops of cochineal, and four ounces
+of sugar; put all in a stewpan, the gelatine having been softened in a
+little of the water; whisk over the fire until the whole<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span> boils; then
+draw it off, let it stand for five to ten minutes; strain through
+flannel or fine linen <i>without pressure</i>, add a few drops of cochineal
+to brighten the color, and mould for use.</p>
+
+<p>Use great care in selecting cinnamon, for very much that is sold is not
+the true spice, but a cheaper one (cassia) that resembles it. Cinnamon
+has a bright tan-color, is rolled many times, and is not much thicker
+than paper when a piece is unrolled. Cassia is thicker in the roll, a
+dull brown, and if a piece is broken is like a piece of wood. It is
+similar in flavor, but much coarser, and has little strength.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXIV" id="XXIV"></a>XXIV.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">JELLIES.&mdash;<i>Continued.</i></span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">If</span> it is kept in mind that two ounces of gelatine to the quart of liquid
+is the right proportion, and that if even a tablespoonful of flavoring,
+fruit juice, or what not, is added, exactly the same quantity of other
+liquid must be omitted, there will not be much danger of formless jelly.
+Many forget this when not working from an exact recipe, and remembering
+only that a quart of cream or water or wine requires two ounces of
+gelatine to set it, they do not deduct for the glass of wine or juice of
+lemon, etc., they may add for flavoring. Although wine jelly is rather a
+simple form of sweet, suggestive of innocent country teas, a very little
+more time than the average housekeeper bestows upon it will convert it
+into a very elegant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span> dish. In the season for fruits there is no more
+beautiful ornament for jelly than these, carefully gathered, with two or
+three leaves attached.</p>
+
+<p><i>Jelly with Fresh Fruits.</i>&mdash;Select cherries of two or three colors if
+possible, in sprays of two or three, and on each a leaf or two; wash
+them carefully by dipping them in and out of a bowl of water. Lay them
+between soft cloths to remove all moisture. Make a quart of punch jelly
+in the following way: Put together a pint of water, a quarter of a pint
+of the finest Santa Cruz or Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pint of sherry,
+a gill and a half of lemon juice, the rinds of two lemons, and the juice
+of one orange, or, if oranges are not to be obtained in cherry season,
+half a gill more of water, two ounces of gelatine, half an inch of
+cinnamon, the whites of two eggs well beaten and the shells crushed. Let
+this come to a boil over the fire, being well whisked the while; as soon
+as it boils draw it to a cool spot on the range, let it stand five
+min<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span>utes, and strain through scalded flannel over a bowl; let it drip,
+but do not use the least pressure. This jelly must be brilliantly clear.
+If there is any milky appearance it proves that the jelly did not really
+boil, and so the eggs had not completely coagulated; in that event boil
+once more for an instant, and strain again through fresh flannel. Oil a
+mould that has no design of fruit or vegetable at the bottom, and set it
+in cracked ice; pour in an inch or two of the jelly when nearly cold.
+Have the cherries ice cold, and arrange the sprays gracefully with due
+regard to color, remembering that the best effect must be not upward
+towards you, but towards the bottom of the mould; thus the underside of
+the leaves must be upward, etc. Do not put in more fruit than will
+display itself well. The bunches are to be isolated, not allowed to
+touch each other, and for this reason it may not be possible to lay more
+than one cluster at the bottom, if the mould is small there. In this
+case dispose a bunch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span> of black cherries and leaves gracefully in the
+centre, pour in more jelly, half an inch or so, then nearer the sides
+arrange lighter-colored cherries, two or three clusters, no more. The
+fruit is only intended as an ornament. A jelly that is quite as pretty
+may be made by using clusters of red and white, or red, white, and black
+currants. The red and white ones should have two or three young leaves
+attached, and each cluster be perfect; no black-currant leaves must be
+used, as they have a strong flavor.</p>
+
+<p><i>Jelly with Candied Fruits.</i>&mdash;Make a quart of maraschino jelly, which is
+done by omitting the rum, lemon, and cinnamon from the last recipe, and
+using in place of rum a gill of maraschino, and water in place of lemon
+juice. The jelly must be very pale. Choose the fruits of as bright
+colors as possible&mdash;small green oranges, red cherries, bright yellow
+mirabelles, angelica perfectly green. Cut the oranges in half&mdash;two or
+three will suffice&mdash;leave mirabelles and cherries whole; apri<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span>cots cut
+in half-moons. The angelica, if cut across a quarter-inch thick, will
+form rings, but if something more ornamental is desired it can be split
+lengthwise, softened in hot water, wiped, then tied into small
+love-knots. Pour into a mould set in ice (the melon shape is excellent
+for these jellies) an inch of jelly, let it set; then scatter in a few
+pieces of bright-colored fruit, always the best side downward; pour in
+an inch more of jelly, and when set more fruit, keeping the brighter
+pieces towards the side; if you have knots of angelica, put them near
+the side. Always see that one layer of fruit and jelly is nearly set
+before adding more.</p>
+
+<p>Although fruits added to jellies in the way just described are chiefly
+for decorative effect, they do add very greatly to the pleasure of
+eating them; but jellied fruits, as distinguished from <i>fruits in
+jelly</i>, are a delicious mode of eating fruit, and where it is in
+abundance afford a pleasant variety.</p>
+
+<p><i>Jellied Raspberries.</i>&mdash;Melt two ounces of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span> gelatine in a gill of water,
+squeeze half a pint of currant juice from fresh currants, and crush as
+many red raspberries as will with the liquid fill a quart measure. It is
+almost impossible to give definite directions for sugar, as fruits
+differ so much. Stir in six ounces, then if not sweet enough add more;
+mould the jelly, and serve with cream.</p>
+
+<p>This is also very nice put in a border mould, the centre filled with
+whipped cream.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roman Punch Jellies.</i>&mdash;These require stiff paper cases of any of the
+ornamental kinds used for ice-cream, but they must not flare. Make some
+maraschino or wine jelly. When it begins to set, pour the jelly into the
+cases, which must be on ice, so that half the fluid jelly may set before
+it has time to soak the case. When quite set, very carefully remove the
+centre, leaving a shell of jelly half an inch thick. The last thing
+before serving fill the centres with well-frozen Roman-punch ice.</p>
+
+<p><i>A Mac&eacute;doine</i> of fruits, if well managed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span> and a good assortment of
+fruits can be had, is a very ornamental way of serving fruit. A mould
+should have half an inch of maraschino, punch, wine, or lemon jelly
+poured into it; then some perfect strawberries, or, failing those, red
+cherries, as many as the jelly will hold together without crowding, no
+more; then more jelly, and a layer of fruit of another kind (white, if
+possible), as pineapple cut into stars&mdash;a number of small stars can be
+stamped out of a few thin slices&mdash;more jelly, and a ring of dark fruit.
+Take care that all the finest fruits are used to form the outer rows.
+When the mould is almost full, with a layer or two of each kind of
+fruit, fill it up with jelly and set on ice.</p>
+
+<p>Creams are a favorite sweet in Europe, and eaten ice cold are delicious.
+Too often they are confounded here with blanc-mange, which may mean
+anything from corn-starch and milk to gelatine and cream, but seldom is
+improved by the confectioner&#8217;s art into a really handsome and dainty
+dish.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span><i>Ginger Cream.</i>&mdash;Make a custard of a gill of milk, an ounce of powdered
+sugar, and the beaten yolks of three eggs. Stir in a double boiler until
+thick. Let it cool. Then add one gill of the syrup from a jar of
+preserved ginger, and cut up two ounces of the ginger; add three
+quarters of an ounce of gelatine melted in as little water as possible.
+Last of all, add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Mix gently and till
+well blended; pour into a mould, and set on ice.</p>
+
+<p><i>Neapolitan Cream.</i>&mdash;Make a custard of half a pint of milk, the yolks of
+four eggs, and a tablespoonful and a half of powdered sugar. Let it
+cool. Cut up three ounces of preserved ginger very small; cook it in a
+gill of ginger syrup for three minutes. Let it cool also. Decorate the
+mould with one ounce of dried cherries and leaves, etc., of jelly. Cut
+the cherries in half, glue them with a little melted jelly to the side
+and bottom of the mould; cut some jelly in thin slices, or melt it and
+let it run into thin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span> sheets, which allow to chill, and stamp from them
+leaves, or whatever shapes you please. Glue these also to the side of
+the mould in the most effective way your taste can devise. Stir one
+ounce of gelatine melted in very little water, and half a pint of cream
+whipped solid, to the custard with which you have already mixed the
+ginger and syrup. Pour all into the decorated mould, put on ice, and
+when it is to be turned out wrap a cloth dipped in hot water round the
+mould; give it a smart slap on both sides, and it will turn out without
+difficulty.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXV" id="XXV"></a>XXV.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">COLD SWEETS.&mdash;CREAMS.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Coffee Cream.</i>&mdash;Make half a pint of custard with two eggs and half a
+pint of milk; dissolve an ounce of gelatine and three ounces of sugar in
+half a gill of strong coffee; add the custard, and strain; whip half a
+pint of cream quite firm; stir lightly into the custard; when it is
+cool, pour into a mould, and set on ice. The excellence of this cream
+depends on the coffee, which must be filtered, not boiled, freshly made,
+and very strong&mdash;three tablespoonfuls of coffee to the half-pint.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cura&ccedil;oa Cream.</i>&mdash;Make a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a
+pint of milk; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in as little liquid as
+possible; mix it with two ounces of powdered sugar; add to the custard;
+then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span> stir in a generous glass of cura&ccedil;oa, and let the mixture cool,
+after which add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir very lightly
+together until well blended; then mould and set on ice.</p>
+
+<p><i>Strawberry Cream.</i>&mdash;Hull a pint of quite ripe strawberries; put them on
+a fine sieve, and sprinkle an ounce of sugar over them; put half an
+ounce of gelatine into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of cold water,
+two ounces and a half of powdered sugar, and the juice of a lemon, and
+let it dissolve by gentle heat. Pass the strawberries through the sieve;
+strain the gelatine, etc., to the strawberry juice, and put to get cold;
+then add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir very lightly to the
+strawberry juice, etc., when the latter is beginning to set.</p>
+
+<p><i>Vanilla Cream.</i>&mdash;Make a custard with three yolks and one white of egg,
+and half a pint of milk and three ounces of sugar; melt an ounce of
+gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of water, strain it to the custard, and
+mix<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span> well; whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth, and stir it
+gently to the custard and gelatine; flavor with vanilla. After the
+vanilla is added, make a couple of spoonfuls of the custard pink with
+cochineal or strawberry juice; let this cool in a thin sheet; stamp from
+it small clover leaves or lozenges, not over an inch long and three
+quarters broad; decorate the bottom of a mould with them, using a little
+gelatine and water to fasten them; set the mould in chopped ice, and
+about half-way up put four or five of the pink pieces; take great care
+there is no inequality as to height or distance (slovenly decoration is
+worse than none). When the lozenges are quite secure in their places,
+pour in the cream. It is needless to repeat this form of decoration of
+creams, they can be varied so infinitely by individual taste, but as a
+rule they should be decorated only with small forms cut out of
+bright-colored jelly, or of cream colored pink, orange, pistache green,
+or brown. Candied fruits are not ef<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span>fective, although sometimes used,
+unless the cream itself has fruit in it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pistache Cream.</i>&mdash;Half an ounce of gelatine, two ounces of powdered
+sugar; melt the gelatine in a gill of water, then add the sugar, a glass
+of sherry, and a glass of kirsch. Whip half a pint of thick cream solid,
+and when the gelatine is cold and beginning to thicken stir the cream to
+it very lightly, and at the same time two ounces of pistachio-nuts,
+blanched and chopped fine, with enough vegetable green coloring to make
+the cream a shade or two lighter in color than the nuts. This cream must
+be stirred lightly on ice after the nuts are added, till thick enough
+for them not to sink.</p>
+
+<p><i>Almond Cream.</i>&mdash;Half an ounce of gelatine melted in a gill of water
+with two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry; grate four ounces of
+almond paste into it, and stir in a double boiler or bowl set in boiling
+water until dissolved, or at least until there are no lumps. Let this
+get cool. Whip a pint and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span> a gill of cream solid, and stir to the
+mixture. Decorate a mould with any red jelly, pour the mixture in, and
+set on ice. In consequence of the variation in the strength of gelatine,
+in making any of these creams try a little on ice in a saucer before
+pouring into a mould, then add more cream or gelatine as required.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold Puddings and Frozen Puddings.</i>&mdash;Some of these &#8220;puddings&#8221; might
+just as appropriately be called creams; however, fashion ordains that
+they shall be puddings. One of the newest is the</p>
+
+<p><i>Jubilee Pudding.</i>&mdash;Make a pint of claret jelly; pour it into a small
+border mould; whip half a pint of cream in which is a quarter of an
+ounce of dissolved gelatine. When it is whipped solid, stir in one ounce
+of preserved or candied cherries, one ounce of candied angelica, one
+ounce of preserved ginger, and one ounce of preserved apricot&mdash;the
+ginger and angelica cut small. Set on ice; then turn out. Pile the
+whipped cream and fruit in the centre, and decorate according to fancy.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span><i>Cold Souffl&eacute; Pudding &agrave; la Princesse.</i>&mdash;Melt half an ounce of gelatine
+in a gill of cream; set in boiling water till dissolved; beat the yolks
+of three eggs well, and add to the milk; when well mixed, put the
+custard into a double boiler till it thickens&mdash;it must not boil. Pour it
+into a bowl, and add a gill of apricot preserve, made into a pur&eacute;e by
+rubbing through a sieve with half a gill of orange juice, two ounces of
+sugar, a little lemon juice, and cochineal to color it a very delicate
+pink. Beat the whites of four eggs till they will not slip; stir them in
+very lightly with an upward motion of the spoon, the object being to
+keep the white of egg from falling, yet the whole must be thoroughly
+mixed. Stir till nearly cold before putting the souffl&eacute; in a mould to
+set.</p>
+
+<p><i>Imperial Rice Pudding.</i>&mdash;Pour a quarter of a pint of clear white jelly
+into a quart mould, turning the mould about so that the jelly covers
+every part; this jelly serves to keep the ornaments in place. Cover the
+in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span>side of the mould with an ounce of candied cherries split and half an
+ounce of angelica cut into thin rings. Stew a quarter of a pound of rice
+in a pint of milk till tender; when cool, add half a pint of whipped
+cream, a quarter of an ounce of gelatine melted in a little water, a
+quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. When
+it is all well mixed, turn the preparation into the mould, and set on
+ice. When firm, turn out of the mould, and serve with a pur&eacute;e of
+apricots.</p>
+
+<p><i>Diplomatic Pudding.</i>&mdash;Make a quart of custard in the following way: Put
+the yolks of four eggs and the white of one into a bowl, and mix well
+with a wooden spoon; stir in half a pint of milk, and strain all into a
+double boiler or a pitcher; add two ounces of sugar, and stand the
+pitcher (unless you have the double boiler) in a saucepan of boiling
+water, and stir the custard over the fire until it thickens, but it must
+not boil; remove from the fire; stir in a tablespoonful of brandy and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span>
+little vanilla. Line a plain mould with half a pint of wine jelly; this
+is done by pouring a little in at a time when it is half fluid, rolling
+the mould about on ice, and as soon as one coat adheres, pour in more,
+until the mould is evenly coated; decorate it with half an ounce of
+candied cherries and half an ounce of angelica&mdash;the cherries split and
+the angelica cut. Melt an ounce of gelatine and two ounces of sugar in a
+gill of water; stir it into the custard with a gill of thick cream; stir
+till cool; then add an ounce more cherries, half an ounce of angelica,
+and half an ounce of citron, all chopped small. Pour this gently into
+the mould you have decorated, set on ice, turn out and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold Cabinet Pudding.</i>&mdash;Ornament the bottom of a pint mould with
+candied cherries and angelica; split half a dozen lady-fingers; line the
+sides of the mould very evenly with them, arranging them alternately
+back and front against the mould; put in two ounces of ratafias (these
+are tiny macaroons about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span> the size of a five-cent piece, of high flavor,
+and to be obtained at the pastry-cooks&#8217; who make foreign specialties;
+some grocers also import them); put four yolks of eggs into a bowl; stir
+them; then add half a pint of milk; pour this custard into a double
+boiler, and stir until it thickens, taking care that it does not curdle.
+Melt half an ounce of gelatine in a very little water; strain it to the
+custard. When the latter cools, add half a gill of thick, fresh cream,
+two ounces of sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla; mix all well, and
+pour carefully into the mould without disturbing the lining of cake. Put
+the mould on ice, and, when set, turn out and serve.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXVI" id="XXVI"></a>XXVI.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">CREAMS AND FROZEN PUDDINGS.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Nut</span> creams, with the exception of almond, are not very well known, but
+are so delicious that they ought to be. One reason perhaps is that it is
+not generally known that kernels of nuts, such as hazel-nuts, walnuts,
+hickory-nuts, etc., can be bought by the pound at confectioners&#8217; supply
+stores. This, of course, saves the tedious work of cracking and
+shelling. To use with creams or for frozen puddings the nuts must be
+pounded very well, with very little white of egg&mdash;just enough to moisten
+and render the process easy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cocoanut Cream.</i>&mdash;Grate a fresh, sweet cocoanut (having first peeled,
+washed, and wiped it <i>dry</i>); mix with it an ounce of sugar; melt in as
+little water as possible three quarters of an ounce of gelatine; whip<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span>
+the whites of three eggs, mix them with half a pint of milk, and stir
+over the fire until the custard thickens; sweeten with four
+tablespoonfuls of sugar. Stir the gelatine and a full half-pint of
+grated cocoanut with the cocoanut milk into the custard. Whip half a
+pint of thick cream solid, and stir it very carefully into the custard;
+when the latter is quite cold, but before it sets, flavor with a little
+vanilla or lemon extract. Mould and set on ice.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hazel-nut Cream.</i>&mdash;Put a pint of hazel-nut kernels into a cool oven
+until they are thoroughly dry and rather hot (they must not become too
+hot, or they will change flavor); then rub them between two coarse
+cloths to get rid of as much as possible of the skin (it cannot be
+entirely removed); blow away the loose hulls, and pound the nuts to a
+paste with a little white of egg. Make a custard with the yolks of three
+eggs and half a pint of milk; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a
+gill of water, mix with six ounces<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span> of powdered sugar, and add to the
+custard when nearly cool. Stir in the hazel-nut paste, taking care that
+it is well mixed with the custard, and add a half-pint of cream whipped
+solid; flavor with vanilla, or you may omit flavoring, the hazel-nut
+being sufficient for many people. Mould and set on ice.</p>
+
+<p>This cream and the two that follow are flecked with brown, for which
+reason it may be colored brown with caramel, although I prefer it
+uncolored, the specks being no more objectionable than the vanilla seeds
+one rejoices to see in ice-cream.</p>
+
+<p><i>Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream.</i>&mdash;Pound one pint of either of these nuts,
+after rubbing them well in a cloth, make the same custard as for
+hazel-nut cream, stir in the walnut or hickory-nut paste till smooth,
+add the whipped cream, color a pale pink with cochineal, and flavor
+faintly with rum or vanilla. Mould, set on ice, and serve with whipped
+cream flavored slightly with rum.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bohemian Jelly Creams.</i>&mdash;These may be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span> made of any flavor, according to
+the jelly you use. It may be jelly of fruit or liqueur. If fresh fruit
+is used for jelly, the juice must be expressed, and well-sweetened
+gelatine added in the proportion of an ounce to the pint. If jam or
+marmalade is used, a pint of water is added and the same amount of
+gelatine, with the juice of half a lemon to the pint. Water, jam, and
+dissolved gelatine must be mixed quickly and passed through a sieve;
+either must be stirred in a bowl set in ice till quite cold and
+beginning to thicken; then stir in gently and quickly three-quarters of
+a pint of cream whipped solid; pour the mixture into the mould, which
+must be set in ice. Cover well, and keep on ice till needed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Frangipanni Iced Pudding.</i>&mdash;Grate six ounces of almond paste to crumbs;
+then on a smaller grater grate four or six bitter almonds blanched and
+dried; pound a dozen candied orange-flower petals with three-quarters of
+a pound of powdered sugar; put<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span> all into a stewpan with the yolks of
+eight eggs, and beat them very well together. In another stewpan have a
+pint and a half of boiling milk, which must be poured over the other
+ingredients by degrees, keeping them well stirred. Place it over the
+fire, stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon;
+rub this all through a coarse sieve, add a glass of sherry, and when
+cold pour the mixture into the freezer; when half frozen add a pint and
+a half of whipped cream, and when quite frozen fill a pudding mould,
+bury it in ice and salt, and serve as you would Nesselrode pudding.</p>
+
+<p><i>Iced Cabinet Pudding.</i>&mdash;Cut a stale sponge cake into slices half an
+inch thick and rather smaller than the mould you intend to use for the
+pudding; lay the slices of cake to soak in brandy flavored with noyau;
+decorate the bottom and sides of the mould with candied fruits, split
+cherries, angelica rings, the same of green oranges, and little diamonds
+of ginger, with a few whole ratafias, dipping them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span> in jelly to make
+them adhere; lay in one slice of cake, then cherries and ratafias,
+another slice of cake, and so on, until the mould is three parts full.
+Make a quart of custard with six yolks of eggs, three tablespoonfuls of
+sugar, and an ounce of gelatine; when this is cold pour part into the
+mould, which must close hermetically; pack it in salt and ice for at
+least two hours; when you wish to turn it out, dip it a minute in
+lukewarm water. Keep the remaining custard on ice, flavor it with sherry
+or rum, beat it up, pour it around the pudding, and strew it with
+chopped pistachio-nuts.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ice Pudding.</i>&mdash;Make a custard with a pint and a half of milk, one whole
+egg and the yolks of four others, and a quarter of a pound of sugar;
+when cold, add half a glass of brandy, a glass of maraschino, an ounce
+of citron cut fine, a quarter of a pound of dried fruits, and an ounce
+of pistachio-nuts, the fruits cut up in small pieces, the pistachio-nuts
+blanched and split; mix well; and lastly add half a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span> pint of whipped
+cream. When well frozen, pack into a pudding mould, and bury in ice and
+salt till wanted.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bombay Ice Pudding.</i>&mdash;Line a plain mould with Roman-punch ice an inch
+thick, keeping it bedded nearly to the brim in ice and salt while you do
+it; then fill the centre with the following mixture: a pint of cocoanut
+grated very fine, mixed with a pint of ice-cream; take great care that
+the cocoanut is ice-cold before you mix it in, or it will melt the
+ice-cream. When the mould is filled within an inch of the top, cover it
+with Roman punch, close the mould hermetically, and bury in ice. These
+puddings, where two kinds of ice are used, must only be attempted after
+one has learned to pack plain ice-cream with success.</p>
+
+<p><i>Iced Jelly Pudding.</i>&mdash;Make a custard with a pint of boiling cream,
+three ounces of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs beaten; pour the cream
+to the eggs very carefully, stirring it in by degrees. Have ready a
+quarter of an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span> ounce of gelatine dissolved in very little milk, mix it
+in, and put the vessel containing the custard in a stewpan of boiling
+water, and stir till it just thickens; then whisk it until nearly cold.
+Mask a quart mould with jelly an inch thick&mdash;any favorite <i>red</i> jelly,
+or a pale one tinted. Directions have already been given how the inside
+of a mould is to be coated with jelly. There is an easier but
+extravagant way, namely, to fill the mould with jelly, then scoop out
+the centre neatly, leaving a shell of jelly an inch thick. The centre,
+of course, might be made hot and bottled for another occasion, or to
+make Bohemian cream jellies. When the mould is masked, fill it with the
+custard, which must be half frozen; then cover securely, and pack in ice
+and salt at least five hours before it is served.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXVII" id="XXVII"></a>XXVII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">ICED PUDDINGS.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Filbert and Wine Iced Pudding.</i>&mdash;To one pint of cream put four
+tablespoonfuls of sugar and two glasses of fine sherry. The cream must
+be perfectly sweet, but should be at least twenty-four hours old, and be
+ice cold. Whip this solid; then freeze. Put a pint of filberts in a cool
+oven till the skins will nearly all rub off; put them between two coarse
+cloths, and rub as much as possible of the brown coating off them; pound
+them to a paste with a little thick cream, mix four ounces of sugar with
+the nuts, and then blend the whole with enough thick custard to make a
+very thick batter; flavor with lemon or vanilla, or not, as you choose;
+freeze. Line a plain mould with the frozen wine cream an inch thick;
+then fill in the centre<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span> with the frozen filberts well pressed in; cover
+tight, and pack in ice and salt for three hours, or until wanted. This
+pudding can be made of walnuts and port-wine cream.</p>
+
+<p><i>Iced Custard with Fruit.</i>&mdash;Flavor one pint of cream with any liqueur
+you prefer; beat twelve eggs thoroughly; strain them; boil the cream
+with five ounces of sugar, and when it is just off the boil pour it,
+little by little, to the eggs; add a quarter of an ounce of gelatine
+that has been dissolved in very little water and strained to the
+custard; whisk until cold; have ready a mould masked with candied
+fruits. To mask, set the mould in a pan of cracked ice, and dip each
+piece of fruit in strong melted jelly; build up from the bottom of the
+mould having all the fruits, cut about the thickness of a split candied
+cherry and near the size, arranged with a view to a good effect when the
+mould shall be turned out. Half freeze the custard, and pour it in the
+mould three inches high; throw in some of the trimmings<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span> of candied
+fruit chopped fine. When set, add more custard, then more fruit, until
+the mould is full. Let it stand in ice at least five hours before it is
+wanted.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rice &agrave; la Princesse.</i>&mdash;Let some rice swell in water until quite tender;
+proportion, one cup of rice to two (scant) of water; then butter a
+saucepan; put the rice into it, with half a pint of milk; let it stew
+gently till it will mash; the milk must have all been absorbed; sweeten
+with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Mix with this a gill of apricot jam,
+a teaspoonful of vanilla, and half a pint of whipped cream; freeze; when
+well frozen, pack in a mould and bury in ice and salt. Pound a dozen
+macaroons; stir them into a pint of whipped cream; let the mixture be
+put on ice. When the pudding is turned out of the mould, cover with the
+macaroon cream, and decorate the dish with cubes of peach or apricot
+jelly.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chocolate Cream Pudding.</i>&mdash;Boil a quarter of a pound of the finest
+vanilla chocolate in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span> half a pint of milk, whisking it well till it
+boils; dissolve in it two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Beat three
+half-pints of cream and three tablespoonfuls of sugar solid while the
+chocolate cools; when it is <i>ice</i> cold mix in one half the beaten cream,
+and freeze. Line a plain mould with the frozen chocolate (the remainder
+of the whipped cream should have been kept in cracked ice and salt, so
+as to be ice cold); fill up the centre of the mould with the cream,
+cover tight, and bury in salt and ice.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ice-Creams and Ices.</i>&mdash;There are so many ways of making ice-cream, that
+all one can do is to indicate the one or two best, and certainly the
+<i>very</i> best is the simplest, and there is no dessert so easy to prepare
+in hot weather as this, since there is no work over the fire. The only
+trouble is breaking the ice and turning the machine for some twenty
+minutes, which can be done by a child.</p>
+
+<p><i>Simplest Fruit Ice-Cream.</i>&mdash;Mash two pounds of strawberries or
+raspberries, put<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span> to them half a pound of powdered sugar, and let them
+remain in a cold place two or three hours, so that the juice may run;
+then, strain the juice to a quart of thick sweet cream and another half
+pound of sugar, with the juice of half a lemon; stir, and pour cream and
+fruit juice into the freezer, which must be packed with ice and
+rock-salt in about equal quantities, the ice being broken quite small.
+Let the cream remain standing in the freezer a few minutes before you
+begin to turn; then freeze, letting off the water, and filling anew with
+ice and salt if necessary. Stir the cream down as it forms, and keep on
+turning five or ten minutes after it is actually necessary. This extra
+working insures that extreme smoothness characteristic of Italian and
+French ice-cream. If you are not expert in freezing, be satisfied not to
+pack your cream in a mould for the first few times. Take out the paddle
+of the freezer, press the ice compactly down in the freezer, cover, and
+see that the ice and salt are sufficient and free<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span> from water. In two
+hours you can turn the ice out of the freezer in a round column or loaf
+that will be quite as sightly as the oblong square one frequently gets
+from the caterer. Many people think that simply freezing the pure cream
+produces the loose, frothy cream found at inferior confectioners&#8217;, but
+this is not the case; pure cream frozen results in a firm smooth mass
+which cuts like butter.</p>
+
+<p>I have given the formula for raspberry and strawberry cream only, but
+any fruit juice may be substituted, varying the quantity of sugar as
+required.</p>
+
+<p>When it is desirable to freeze the fruit in the cream instead of the
+juice, it must not be added until the cream is frozen. Stir in
+raspberries, strawberries, chopped pineapple, banana, or peaches just
+before the ice is ready to pack down; otherwise the fruit, being full of
+water, will freeze into hard knots.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tutti-frutti Ice-Cream</i> being made from chopped candied fruit, this
+precaution is not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span> necessary; the fruit may be added at any time during
+the freezing, or stirred in last, as you please.</p>
+
+<p>I have given the simplest and best method of making ice-cream, yet the
+way most in use is to add custard; and French cooks always use &#8220;m&eacute;ringue
+paste,&#8221; claiming that it insures a smoothness and lightness nothing else
+can give.</p>
+
+<p><i>Custard for Ice-Cream.</i>&mdash;This is made as any other custard, except that
+double the amount of sugar is allowed for everything that is to be
+frozen. It may be made of from three to six eggs to a pint of milk, as
+you prefer. This must be ice cold before you put it in the freezer.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ice-Cream with Eggs.</i>&mdash;One pint of milk, three eggs, leaving out one
+white, half a pound of sugar (if acid fruit is to be added, it may
+require more for some tastes). Make a custard of these materials, and
+half freeze it; then add a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir in well and
+finish freezing, turning the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span> handle some few minutes after it gets
+pretty stiff, if there is a strong enough hand near to do it.</p>
+
+<p>In making varieties of ice-cream you have only to consider the fitness
+of the articles you use; for instance, any sort of fruit may be added,
+with the exception of lemons. Fleshy fruits, such as pineapple, peaches,
+pears, etc., are usually mixed with the cream uncooked in this country;
+abroad this is only done with soft fruits, such as raspberries,
+blackberries, oranges, and such as will mash through a colander. Others
+are very slightly stewed in rich syrup (as nearly their own juice as
+possible), then pulped and mixed through when the cream is nearly
+frozen.</p>
+
+<p>In winter, fruit jams, and especially jellies, are very pleasant in
+ice-cream; they always require a little lemon juice to restore some of
+the natural sharpness of fresh fruit. A tumbler of red currant jelly
+turned into a pint of ice-cream is delicious, and gives a pretty, faint<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span>
+pink tint. The method is just the same whether for custard and cream or
+cream alone.</p>
+
+<p>The m&eacute;ringue paste alluded to as used by foreign confectioners is made
+by beating the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar
+until stiff.</p>
+
+<p><i>Grilled Almond Ice-Cream.</i>&mdash;Make a quart of ice-cream; grill some
+almonds in the following way: Blanch four ounces of almonds, dry them in
+a hot spot till they are brittle; then put in a thick saucepan or saut&eacute;
+pan four ounces of sugar and a gill of water; let them boil five
+minutes; throw in the almonds; stir them till part of the sugar adheres
+and they begin to turn yellow. Take them up, chop them, and when quite
+cold stir them into the ice-cream, which should be flavored with
+vanilla.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXVIII" id="XXVIII"></a>XXVIII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">ICE-CREAMS AND WATER-ICES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">To</span> those very fond of tea, ice-cream made with it is very acceptable,
+and is very much used at English garden parties.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tea Ice-Cream.</i>&mdash;To one pound of granulated sugar put a pint of strong
+green tea, a pint and a half of cream, and two quarts of rich milk, and
+a very little cinnamon water. Let the whole simmer one minute, not
+stirring, but keeping the mixture in motion by gently swinging the
+saucepan. Freeze as usual. This recipe may be used for coffee and
+chocolate; it will make a large quantity, and for a medium-sized family
+one quarter will suffice.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chinese Ice.</i>&mdash;Beat the yolks of fifteen eggs with three quarters of a
+pound of powdered sugar; pound four ounces of pistachio-nuts<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span> (blanched)
+with the white of an egg; put to it three gills of water; stir it over
+the fire in a double boiler till it is as thick as cream; take great
+care that it does not boil. Color it green, or part green and part
+yellow; flavor as you please; cut up a couple of candied Chinese oranges
+small and a little preserved ginger, and freeze.</p>
+
+<p><i>Water-Ices.</i>&mdash;These are exceedingly simple, and no more elegant form of
+refreshment can be offered than a plate of well-frozen or a tumbler of
+half-frozen water-ice. It is acceptable when ice-cream would be too
+heavy, and can be offered at the simplest country afternoon tea, or
+during a call, without the seeming ostentation of ice-cream.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ginger Water-Ice</i> (to serve as a beverage if preferred).&mdash;Take six
+ounces of preserved ginger, free from fibre; pound it; make two quarts
+of lemonade by paring eight or ten lemons so thinly that the knife-blade
+shows through the yellow; put the peel of three in a pitcher with a
+pound and a quarter of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span> sugar; pour two quarts of boiling water on them,
+and cover; squeeze and strain the juice from the lemons, add to the
+water, and when cold stir in the pounded ginger, with the m&eacute;ringue paste
+made with the whites of four eggs. Freeze it. If for drinking, only half
+freeze, work only enough to make it like half-melting snow, and use only
+sugar enough to make a refreshing drink. Italians call this <i>granito</i>,
+and it is a form of ice not often met with in this country.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pineapple Water-Ice.</i>&mdash;This can be readily made of canned pineapple
+when the fresh fruit is out of season. Peel a pineapple; grate it into a
+mortar; then pound it well with six ounces of sugar; let it stand
+covered for an hour; add the juice of five oranges, and a pint and a
+half of syrup boiled to the little thread, or <i>&agrave; liss&eacute;</i>. (This syrup is
+much used in making water-ices, punches, etc. It is sugar and water
+boiled till it forms a little thread between thumb and finger.) Mix well
+and freeze. If canned fruit is used, you<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span> need less sugar, and
+substitute lemon for half the orange juice.</p>
+
+<p><i>Almond Water-Ice.</i>&mdash;Take one pound of almond paste, a pint and a half
+of water, and three quarters of a pound of sugar; grate the paste; then
+stir till quite dissolved. Flavor with vanilla or raspberry; stir in the
+whites of two eggs and some candied fruits cut up small. Freeze as
+usual.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cinnamon Water-Ice.</i>&mdash;This is a German ice, and very much liked by
+those who are fond of the flavor. Pound an ounce of the finest quality
+of cinnamon in the stick, put it into a pint and a half of boiling
+water, and cover it well; when it is cold add a quart of syrup (the
+little thread) and the well-beaten whites of two eggs, and freeze it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pistachio Water-Ice.</i>&mdash;Blanch and pound a pound of pistachio-nuts,
+using the white of an egg to moisten; mix with a quart of syrup <i>&agrave;
+liss&eacute;</i>. Heighten the color, if too pale, with spinach coloring, and
+flavor to taste. (Pistachio-nuts have no flavor of their own,
+aston<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span>ishing as the fact may seem to those who have heard frequently of
+pistachio flavor.) Freeze as usual.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apricot Water-Ice.</i>&mdash;There is no more delicious water-ice than this if
+fine-flavored apricots are used. The canned ones are excellent for the
+purpose. Pulp two pounds of apricots through a sieve or jelly press;
+grate or pound very fine five or six bitter almonds; mix with the pulp
+the juice of the apricots (from the can), and a pint and a half of
+syrup, and the beaten whites of three eggs made into a paste with three
+tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar; stir all well, and freeze. This ice
+ought to be the color of apricots; if too pale, add a very little
+saffron coloring.</p>
+
+<p><i>Currant Water-Ice.</i>&mdash;A pint of currant juice, a pint of syrup, and the
+whites of three eggs made into m&eacute;ringue paste. Freeze as usual. Any of
+these water-ices can be half frozen as <i>graniti</i>, and served in glasses
+as <i>granito</i>, the only exceptions being the almond and pistachio
+water-ices.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span><i>Graniti</i> are also made of various kinds of light punches by adding to a
+quart of the usual punch recipe a quart of sweetened water. Any summer
+beverage made from fruit juice can be turned into a <i>granito</i>, by half
+freezing, in either of the following ways:</p>
+
+<p><i>To Freeze Graniti.</i>&mdash;Mix the beverage you intend to freeze, for
+instance, we will say, a pint of very strong, clear, bright coffee and
+half a pint of syrup <i>&agrave; liss&eacute;</i>. Put them into the freezer and turn; as
+it becomes frozen up the sides, scrape it down with a spoon, and
+remember, as soon as it resembles snowy water (not white, of course) it
+is frozen enough. It must be just liquid enough to pour out.</p>
+
+<p>There is a second way of freezing <i>graniti</i> by which they can be put on
+the table in the vessel in which they were frozen. Place the mixture in
+wide-mouthed water-bottles, twirl them round in ice and salt, and, as
+the contents become frozen on the inside of the bot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span>tle, scrape down
+with a narrow wooden stick or spatula. When frozen in perfection the
+bottle should seem half filled with tiny crystals.</p>
+
+<p><i>Claret Granito.</i>&mdash;To one pint of orangeade add a bottle of claret. Half
+freeze.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sherry Granito.</i>&mdash;To one quart of lemonade add a bottle of sherry, and
+freeze.</p>
+
+<p>The housekeeper who lives far from a large city will need materials for
+many of the recipes given in these papers and others which she will meet
+with in books on high-class cooking. Many of these can be sent for by
+mail, and all, of course, by express; but it will often not seem worth
+while to send perhaps for one small bottle that we may lack. For this
+reason I give a few directions for preparing very tolerable imitations
+of liqueurs, which, however, unless it were a question of economy, it
+might not be worth while doing if within reach of stores.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cura&ccedil;oa.</i>&mdash;Pare a dozen and a half of dead-ripe oranges so thin that
+you can see the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span> knife pass under the rind; pound one dram of finest
+cinnamon and half a dram of mace; put them to steep for fifteen days in
+a gallon of pure alcohol, shaking it every day. Make a clarified syrup
+of four pounds of sugar and one quart of water well boiled and skimmed;
+add this to the cura&ccedil;oa. Rub up in a mortar one dram of potash with a
+teaspoonful of the liqueur; when well mixed add it, and then do the same
+with a dram of alum. Shake well, and in an hour or two filter through
+thin muslin. It will be ready for use in a a week.</p>
+
+<p><i>Maraschino.</i>&mdash;Bruise two ounces of cherry kernels and one of bitter
+almonds; put them in a deep jar with the thin outer rind of twelve
+oranges and five lemons. Steep in one gallon of English gin or alcohol.
+Let the whole stand a fortnight, then filter and bottle.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ratafia.</i>&mdash;Blanch the kernels of uncooked peaches or apricots, and when
+you have two ounces pound them, and pour to them a quart<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span> of gin or
+alcohol and the thin yellow rind of two lemons. Sweeten with a pound of
+white sugar-candy, and leave the whole for two months; then filter and
+bottle for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Candied Orange and Lemon Peels.</i>&mdash;These are invaluable both as
+decoration for certain desserts and for culinary purposes, and as they
+are not always to be found except in the larger cities, the method of
+preparing them is here given: Throw the peels into salt and water, all
+pulp being removed, but the white part must be left untouched; in fact,
+the thicker the peel the better for the purpose, thin-skinned oranges
+being of no use for candying. Let them remain in the salt and water from
+nine days to three weeks; then wash them, put them on the fire in cold
+water, and let them boil till perfectly tender, yet they must not be
+mushy. During the time they are boiling change the water until it no
+longer tastes salt. Lemon-peels may take from three to four hours&#8217;
+boiling, orange-peels less; but remember, should the lemon-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span>peel not be
+quite tender, it will harden when it goes into syrup, and instead of a
+rich sweetmeat there will be only woody chips. Drain the peels, and make
+a thin syrup of a pint of water to each pound of sugar. Let it boil five
+minutes; then throw in the peels; they must boil gently in this until
+they are clear and the syrup has become thick&mdash;almost boiled away, in
+fact. Now make another syrup, half a pint of water to two pounds of
+sugar; let it boil till clear and till there is a short hair from the
+fork. Now put in the peels (which must have been drained from the other
+syrup); remove from the fire; stir them round till the syrup looks
+whitish; then lift each piece out and lay it on a dish on which
+granulated sugar has been freely sprinkled.</p>
+
+<p>Both orange and lemon peels are candied by the same process, but they
+must never be put in the same vessel of salt and water, nor must they be
+candied together, or the distinctive flavors would be lost.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXIX" id="XXIX"></a>XXIX.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Under</span> this head I intend to give a few sweets that seem to me unusually
+good, although they may not always be novel, except in manner of
+serving. A compote of fruit has nothing new about it, yet by the way in
+which it is served it may simply be &#8220;stewed fruit,&#8221; or it may be a dish
+fit to find a place even in choice cookery.</p>
+
+<p>In making compotes great care must be taken to preserve the shape and
+color of the fruits. In order to do this they must be quickly peeled and
+dipped into strong lemon juice and water, and dropped into syrup in
+which also a little lemon juice has been squeezed. Pass the blade of the
+knife over its own marks to obliterate the appearance of peeling.
+Peaches and apricots may be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span> boiled up without peeling, and (unless they
+are allowed to get too soft) the skins will be removed easily. It will
+be observed that hard fruits such as apples are simmered in thin syrup
+to get tender, while rich soft fruits are dropped into syrup boiled to
+candy height.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apple Compote</i> No. 1.&mdash;Cut up and boil half a dozen apples in a pint of
+water. When they are quite soft strain the juice from them without
+squeezing; put to it half a pound of granulated sugar and the zest of a
+lemon (the zest is the peel so thin that the knife blade can be seen,
+through it while paring), together with the juice. Let this syrup boil
+for a minute; skim it. Then pare half a dozen fine cooking apples; core
+them; let them boil gently in the syrup until quite tender, but not in
+danger of breaking. Take them up on a perforated skimmer. When cold, put
+the apples into a compote dish. Boil the juice to a jelly; pour part of
+it over the apples; dip a plate in cold water, drain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span> it, and then pour
+out the rest of the jelly into it: it should only cover it about the
+thickness of thick paper. When stiff, warm the under-side of the plate
+<i>very slightly</i>, pass a broad thin knife under, and lay the sheet of
+jelly over the apples in the compote dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apple Compote</i> No. 2.&mdash;Prepare the apples as in last recipe, but before
+the last sheet of jelly is laid over them ornament with rings and leaves
+of angelica, and any red jelly or preserve cut in thin slices and
+stamped out with tiny tin cutters in leaves, stars, or fancy shapes
+(stiff red currant jelly of red quince may be used); decorate thus each
+apple; then lay the thin sheet of apple jelly over all.</p>
+
+<p><i>Compote of Stuffed Apples.</i>&mdash;Prepare the apples as in the foregoing
+recipes, taking care to core them all through without splitting the
+apple. When the apples are done, fill the centre with orange marmalade
+or apricot preserve. Boil the syrup down till it will glaze; pour it
+over the apples when they are ice-cold, the syrup also only warm<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span> enough
+to remain liquid. By this means the rich coating will remain over the
+apples, while if both were warm it would run off.</p>
+
+<p><i>Compote of Apples or Pears Grill&eacute;.</i>&mdash;If you have any apples or pears
+left from a compote (or you may, of course, prepare them especially),
+put them into a frying or saut&eacute; pan over a brisk fire; put with them any
+syrup there may be and a cup of sugar just dissolved in water; boil
+rapidly down to a pale caramel, rolling the apples with a fork so that
+they become covered with the caramel. Take great care that the syrup
+does not burn; remove it from the fire the moment it begins to change
+color. The apples should now have an even glossy surface; as each is
+finished put it at once into the compotier. Pour a little cura&ccedil;oa syrup
+round just before sending to table.</p>
+
+<p><i>Compote of Apple Marmalade.</i>&mdash;This is not so troublesome to make as it
+sounds, especially to any one who has made glac&eacute; nuts&mdash;a very general
+accomplishment nowadays.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span> Reduce some apple marmalade by leaving it for
+an hour or two in a double boiler; the water boiling round it will
+evaporate moisture without danger of burning. Stir occasionally, and
+when the marmalade is so reduced that it will make a firm paste when
+cold (try a little in a saucer on ice), color one half pink with
+cochineal. Spread half an inch thick on plates slightly oiled; when
+stiff and cold, cut out the marmalade into squares, ovals, diamonds,
+leaves, etc., with tin cutters. Boil a pound of sugar with a gill of
+water to the crack&mdash;that is, until a teaspoonful dropped in ice-water
+will crack between the teeth. Oil a fork and a large dish, and use the
+fork to drop the pieces of marmalade into the candy; lift them out
+quickly, and lay them on the dish, which will be better if it is set on
+ice. When they are cold, dish them in a pyramid, the pink to contrast
+with the white effectively. Pour a little liqueur-flavored syrup round
+the base of the fruit.</p>
+
+<p><i>Compote of Pears (white).</i>&mdash;Use any fine-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span>flavored dessert pears. Cut
+them in halves, core, pare, and trim neatly, and simmer them in syrup (a
+pound of sugar and juice of half a lemon to a pint of water) till they
+are tender, yet firm to the touch. Dish the pieces, keeping them close
+to each other. Lay a thin sheet of apple jelly over them, and the syrup,
+boiled down till rich and thick, round them.</p>
+
+<p><i>A Pink Compote</i> is prepared in the same way, the only difference being
+that a very few drops of cochineal are added to the syrup before the
+pears go in. Decorate with angelica.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pears &agrave; la Princesse.</i> Select seven pears of the best quality, without
+blemish, and of equal size; pare them with great care; stand them close
+together in a saucepan, with weak acidulated syrup to cover them; simmer
+slowly till quite tender, but yet firm to the touch; take them up,
+leaving the syrup to boil down. When cold, cut the stalk end off each
+pear about an inch deep, or so as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span> to leave about an inch of surface, on
+which place a ring of angelica (simply cut angelica crosswise and it
+forms rings, being tubular); if the rings are flattened, lay them in
+syrup; when softened bend them round and lay one on each pear; then, if
+in season, dip a fine strawberry or stoned red cherry in the hot syrup
+and lay it on the ring of angelica. Cut strips of angelica and run them
+through the strawberry down to the pear, both to hold the decoration in
+place and to represent the stalk; dish them standing; when dished up,
+pour some syrup, boiled till thick and rich, over the seven pears. When
+fresh fruit is not in season for decoration, use candied cherries.</p>
+
+<p><i>Variegated Compote of Pears.</i>&mdash;This is a pretty dish. Prepare some
+pears as in the last recipe, except that the tops are not to be cut off;
+color half the number a pale pink by adding a few drops of cochineal to
+the syrup in which they are simmered; dress them alternately, a pink
+pear and a white one, in the compotier; pour over each the pink and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span>
+white syrup in which they were cooked, and pour syrup flavored with
+vanilla round them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Compote of Oranges.</i>&mdash;Divide six oranges in halves; first cut out the
+centre string of pith, pick all pips out carefully, and with a very
+sharp knife pare off the peel of the orange down to the naked
+transparent pulp; in this way you get rid of the whole of the white
+outside skin. Place the halves as you do them in a bowl; pour over them
+some hot syrup boiled <i>&agrave; liss&eacute;</i>, flavored with orange peel, rubbed with
+lump sugar, and previously dissolved in the syrup; a very little lemon
+juice should be added if the oranges are very sweet. Let them steep a
+few minutes; then remove them; then build the oranges into a pyramid on
+the compotier, and the last thing before going to table pour the syrup,
+well boiled and cold, over them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chestnut Compote.</i>&mdash;Take the largest French or Spanish chestnuts, make
+slits in the peel, and boil till tender; take off the shell, and press
+them flat without breaking;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span> lay them in a saucepan; pour over them
+thick syrup; put them in the oven, but do not let them boil; when they
+look quite clear take them up, put them into the compotier, boil the
+syrup to candy height, squeeze into the compotier the juice of an
+orange, and pour the candy over the chestnuts.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chestnut Compote</i> No. 2.&mdash;Prepare the nuts as in last recipe; put the
+yolks of three eggs in a saucepan; stir gradually to them a pint of
+cream; cook a quarter of a pound of sugar to the crack, with a few dried
+orange flowers; the minute the candy begins to get yellowish pour it
+into the cream, stirring constantly, and let it come to boiling-point;
+then strain the cream over the chestnuts.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXX" id="XXX"></a>XXX.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.&mdash;<i>Continued.</i></span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Strawberries,</span> raspberries, currants, etc., need very little cooking, and
+that little in high candy. If it is understood that strong syrup tends
+to make fruit firm, and weak syrup to make it tender, it will be seen
+why all soft fruit, in order to keep its shape, should be dropped into
+candy boiled till brittle, and why apples and other hard fruits should
+be first stewed in weak syrup until soft; yet there are degrees; for
+instance, hard peaches require thin syrup, and very luscious ones must
+be put into syrup that is very near candy. This is also the case with
+pears. Be guided as to the strength of the syrup by the kind of fruit.
+Avoid fruit that is very ripe, because the syrup from it will not jelly
+readily.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span><i>Compote of Strawberries.</i>&mdash;Select a quart of fine large berries, rather
+under than over ripe; boil three quarters of a pound of sugar to the
+crack; drop the strawberries into the syrup after it is removed from the
+fire; return them to the range; let them boil gently once; take out the
+berries most carefully with the skimmer; lay them on the compotier; boil
+the syrup fast, skimming it carefully then pour it over the fruit.</p>
+
+<p><i>Compote of Cherries</i> is made in the same way, with the finest red
+cherries, only they require to boil up several times. When clear, drain
+them with the skimmer; lay them in the compote dishes; add a gill of red
+currant juice to the syrup; boil it till it is a weak jelly; then throw
+it over the cherries when nearly cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Orange Baskets Filled with Fruits.</i>&mdash;Select seven oranges, not too
+large, but all the same size. With a very sharp knife pare the fruit as
+thin as possible&mdash;so thin that it still remains yellow, and only the
+shining outer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</a></span> surface is removed (in fact, it may be lightly grated
+off, but that is more trouble), to render them transparent; cut two
+quarters out of the upper part of the orange, so as to leave a narrow
+band half an inch wide, which will form the handle; pass the knife
+carefully round inside the band, so as to remove the strip of pulp. With
+the bowl of a teaspoon detach the remaining pulp from the inside without
+in any way damaging the shape of the basket. As you prepare them, drop
+them in a saucepan of cold water, and then put them into boiling water,
+and simmer three minutes gently. This is only to soften the peel and
+enable you to stamp out the edges with a perforating cutter, if you have
+one, which will give them an openwork effect; if not, just scallop them
+with scissors, and snip out a sort of trellis-work to increase the
+basket effect. Put them into a preserving-kettle with weak syrup <i>&agrave;
+liss&eacute;</i>, boil them gently till they look clear, then put them aside in
+the syrup till next day;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</a></span> boil the syrup twice alone at intervals of
+several hours, and throw it over the baskets. These baskets may be kept
+ready prepared for months by putting them in wide jars and covering them
+with syrup. When required for use, they must be taken out, drained
+thoroughly, and then filled with a variety of small fruits, such as
+cherries, strawberries, currants, etc., which have been mixed with a
+little apple or orange jelly. In winter, ambrosia&mdash;a mixture of cut-up
+banana, grated cocoa-nut, orange quarters, etc.&mdash;may be served in them,
+or a mixture of preserved fruits that are firm, such as Chinese oranges,
+limes, ginger, etc. In all cases serve them on a compote dish, and throw
+over them syrup flavored with maraschino.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lemon Baskets</i> are prepared precisely as the orange baskets, but they
+require longer boiling, and the syrup they are served with should be
+flavored with citronelle or the rasped peel of green limes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Orange Baskets Glac&eacute;.</i>&mdash;These are not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span> much more trouble than the
+baskets simply preserved, but if successfully done they can be very
+effectively filled with candies or ice-cream. Prepare the baskets as in
+last recipe, drain them on a napkin, very carefully remove all moisture
+from the inside, and set them over a register, or in an oven with the
+door open, to dry. Boil two pounds of sugar with a pint of water and two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar till it begins to change color (this is some
+little time after the brittle stage is reached, and is called caramel);
+lightly oil the skimmer, and drop a basket in the candy; remove as
+quickly as possible, but see that the whole is well coated, yet has as
+little superfluous candy as possible, for which reason the baskets must
+be warm when they are dipped, also the skimmer. You must not leave the
+candy on the fire after it <i>begins</i> to change color, but the work of
+coating the baskets had better be done quite near the fire, with the pot
+containing the candy on some part of it where it will be kept hot,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</a></span> but
+not cook. They must be slipped on to an oiled dish, and, needless to
+say, most carefully handled.</p>
+
+<p>Other baskets are made with nougat, others with pastry, and the Swiss
+make what they call <i>Vacherin</i> with almond paste, and serve whipped
+cream in them; but the idea may be extended and improved upon by serving
+dried fruits or candies, or ice-cream in them, and they are a decided
+improvement on the paper baskets so often used for the last purpose,
+being eatable.</p>
+
+<p><i>Swiss Vacherin.</i>&mdash;Take half a pound of almond paste, three quarters of
+a pound of confectioners&#8217; sugar, and the white of one egg. Shave the
+almond paste, stir the egg and sugar together, and flavor with a little
+orange-flower water or wine; work all together with the hand into a
+smooth, stiff paste that will roll out; if there is a disposition to
+crack or crumble, use more white of egg and almond paste. Roll it just
+as you would pie crust on the pastry board, using<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</a></span> confectioners&#8217; sugar
+in place of flour. Line small cups or tartlet moulds, or anything that
+will make a good form for baskets, which have been very slightly oiled.
+Put them aside to harden and dry. Chop a tablespoonful of blanched
+pistachio-nuts till they are as fine as corn-meal, mix with an equal
+quantity of granulated sugar. Trim the edges of the cups or baskets with
+scissors, turn them out of the moulds, very carefully dip the edges in a
+saucer containing white of egg beaten to liquid&mdash;the edges only need to
+be just wet. Have the chopped pistachio-nuts and sugar also in a saucer,
+dip the wet edge of the cup lightly into it, and shake gently. If
+properly done, the cups will now have a pretty green border. When these
+are filled with whipped cream, sweetened, flavored, and colored, they
+are called <i>Swiss Vacherin</i>. Filled with plain whipped cream, and the
+top covered with strawberries, they are called &#8220;Chantilly cups,&#8221; but
+they may be used in many decorative ways,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</a></span> to hold preserves or candied
+fruits, etc., etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Little China Dishes.</i>&mdash;This quaint recipe is from the immortal Mrs.
+Glasse, and on trial was found so unique and agreeable a variety to our
+modern fancies that with some little changes to suit our present ideas I
+give the last-century dainty. If you have any pretty-shaped little tin
+dishes, without fluting, to mould and bake them in, they are very little
+trouble to make. Take the yolks of two eggs, two small tablespoonfuls of
+sherry, and one of rose-water, beat together only enough to mix, then
+use as much fine flour as will make a firm paste that can be rolled out
+exceedingly thin. Cover some nicely shaped little tins slightly
+buttered, press to the form, be careful the paste fits without creases,
+and bake in a cool oven. When the paste is crisp, with very little
+change of color, they are done. Do not touch them till they are cold, as
+they may be brittle. Stir the white of an egg with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</a></span> tablespoonful of
+rose-water and confectioners&#8217; sugar enough to make a smooth icing;
+squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and when the little dishes are
+cold, ice the under side only just thick enough to mask the pastry; when
+they are dry and hard, turn them over and ice the inside; do this with
+great smoothness, to look as much like porcelain as possible. If you
+choose, when the icing is quite hard, you can wet the edge of the dishes
+with white of egg and dip them in chopped pistachio-nuts and sugar, like
+the Chantilly baskets, or in nonpareils (the smallest size). They may be
+used to serve anything sweet, from jelly to candies.</p>
+
+<p><i>Almond Trifles.</i>&mdash;With the almond paste used for Chantilly cups many
+trifles may be made with very little trouble; for instance, mix a
+tablespoonful of flour with the paste; roll it out; cut into circles;
+pinch up two sides; place a little handle over the centre, and in each
+open end, which must be bent slightly upward, place a candied cherry.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</a></span>
+Or cut a number of thin strips of paste, stick them together in the
+middle with white of egg, pass a strip of almond paste round so that the
+strips look like fagots of sticks, let them just color in the oven, sift
+sugar over them, and put them away. The paste may be rolled as thick as
+a pipe-stem and tied in knots, the surface just moistened, and sugar
+sifted over them; these also must only just take color in the oven.
+These are only suggestions for using up the trimmings from the cups.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXXI" id="XXXI"></a>XXXI.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.&mdash;<i>Continued.</i></span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Raspberry Charlotte Russe.</i>&mdash;The simplest and quite the most effective
+way of making charlottes of any kind is the following: Take a strip of
+light cartridge or drawing paper from two to three inches wide, measure
+it round a mould the size you wish the charlotte to be, and cut it an
+inch larger; piece the two ends together, lapping an inch. Lay this
+paper circle on an ornamental dish (the one you wish to use), split
+lady-fingers, and stand them around it inside like a picket-fence, only
+as close together as they will go, inserting a pin from the outside
+through the paper and each cake as you do it. When you have lined the
+paper completely you will have a close frame of lady-fingers held in
+place by pins. Whip a pint of <i>perfectly sweet</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</a></span> cream that is at least
+twenty-four hours old and has been thoroughly chilled on ice. Sweeten
+the cream with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and flavor it with
+a tablespoonful of raspberry <i>juice</i> (not syrup) mixed with a
+tablespoonful of powdered sugar; sometimes the raspberry juice will
+color the cream a beautiful faint pink, which cannot be improved upon,
+but if it is not bright enough in tint stir in one or two drops of
+cochineal. If the weather is warm stand the vessel containing the cream
+in ice; then beat without stopping to skim the froth as it rises. In
+about ten to fifteen minutes the cream ought to be perfectly solid if
+all the conditions were observed, and the beating carried on in a cool,
+airy room. If, however, the cream is not solid enough to keep shape, set
+it on ice for an hour and beat again. Fill the centre of the frame of
+lady-fingers, piling it high; decorate either with chopped
+pistachio-nuts lightly sprinkled, or with rings of angelica. The
+raspberry <i>juice</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</a></span> used for flavoring is to be obtained at first-class
+druggists&#8217;, where the best quality of soda-water is sold. It is
+unsweetened, and although I have kept it two or three months in cool
+weather, it often will not keep many weeks; it is therefore better to
+buy it by the gill or half-pint, if your druggist will sell it so, than
+to buy a large bottle, although it is so useful for making raspberry
+jelly, raspberry shrub, and many other things, that even a bottle is not
+likely to be wasted. It must not be confused with raspberry <i>syrup</i>,
+which is heavily sweetened, but not nearly so fragrant. Before serving
+the charlotte remove the pins and take the paper off.</p>
+
+<p><i>Charlotte Russe with Gelatine.</i>&mdash;Prepare a frame as in last recipe,
+also beat a pint of cream sweetened and flavored with wine or to taste;
+melt in a pint of milk half an ounce of gelatine. The French gelatine is
+very pure, easy to melt, and no more expensive than any other good kind,
+and for delicate uses preferable to them. Make the gela<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[284]</a></span>tine and milk
+into a custard with two eggs, sweeten with two tablespoonfuls of sugar,
+flavor to taste, and put to get cold, stirring it once in a while; when
+it begins to thicken round the sides of the vessel beat with the
+egg-beater till foamy. You have now a vessel of whipped custard and one
+of whipped cream, both cold; now mix the cream into the custard, a
+little at a time, giving the spoon a light upward movement; <i>do not stir
+it</i>; that deadens the cream; your object is to keep it light; when all
+is mixed, fill the frame of cake with the spongy mixture; decorate it
+either with drops and pipings of the mixture applied to the smooth
+surface, or with candied fruits cut into forms or various colored
+jellies.</p>
+
+<p>Of course a charlotte russe can be varied in many ways. It may be filled
+with the custard made with chocolate, and so be brown charlotte, or the
+filling may have apricot or currant jelly whipped into it with the
+gelatine; this is an admirable change.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[285]</a></span><i>Almond Turban.</i>&mdash;Make half a pound of fine puff-paste, give it nine
+turns, roll it the last time to the thickness of a dollar; have ready
+half a pound of almonds, blanched and chopped; put them in a bowl with
+half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, adding a very
+little more if the icing is too stiff to spread; spread the almond icing
+on the pastry as thick as a twenty-five-cent piece; with a sharp knife
+cut the pastry into strips two and a half inches long and one in
+breadth; bake these in a moderate oven a very pale brown; make a circle
+on a dish of some <i>firm</i> marmalade or jam; when the almond cakes are
+cold, dress them in a crown on the jam, which serves to keep them in
+place; fill the centre of the turban with vanilla ice-cream or simple
+whipped cream.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fine Small Cakes for Dessert.</i>&mdash;It may not be worth the while of a busy
+housekeeper within reach of a first-class confectioner&#8217;s to make these,
+because, although when of fine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[286]</a></span> quality they are always expensive, yet
+they are also tedious to make. Many, however, live in country towns,
+where there is no possibility of obtaining anything better than the
+sandy products of the country bakery.</p>
+
+<p>A few really fine cakes can be made at a time, and kept in an air-tight
+box, with layers of paper between, for some time. In speaking, however,
+of the tediousness I would not discourage the reader, for there are few
+more tedious things in cooking than the rolling out, making, and baking
+of thin cookies or ginger-snaps, and the result attained so inadequate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rout Biscuits.</i>&mdash;Boil a pound of sugar in half a pint of milk; grate
+into it the rind of a lemon when cold; rub half a pound of butter into a
+pound and a half of flour and a pound of almond paste grated fine; put
+as much carbonate of soda as would lie on a silver dime into the milk,
+and mix with the flour and almond paste; beat two eggs, and make the
+whole into a firm, smooth paste;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[287]</a></span> print this paste with very small
+butter moulds if you have them, making little cakes just like the tiny
+pats of butter one gets at city restaurants. Bake on a well-buttered pan
+in a quick oven a very pale yellow.</p>
+
+<p><i>Macaroons.</i>&mdash;These must be exempted from the charge of being tedious,
+they are so easily and quickly made. One pound of almond paste grated,
+one pound and a half of sugar, and the whites of seven eggs. Some
+confectioners use a teaspoonful of flour, with the idea that the
+macaroons are not so apt to fall. I recommend a trial of both methods;
+they will both be good. Stir the sugar and the beaten white of eggs
+together just enough to mix, then by degrees add the grated paste,
+mashing with the back of a fork till it forms a perfectly smooth paste.
+Oil several sheets of paper cut to the size of your baking-pans.
+Dripping-pans may be used if you have no regular baking-sheets. Lay a
+sheet of paper at the bottom of the pan. Put half a teaspoonful of the
+macaroon paste on a scrap of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span> buttered paper in the oven. If it spreads
+too much it requires a very little more sugar; if it does not spread at
+all, or so little as to leave the surface rough, it is too stiff, and
+requires perhaps <i>half</i> the white of an egg, or the finger dipped in
+water and laid on each macaroon after they are on the paper is often
+sufficient&mdash;a little practice is all that is necessary. Lay the paste in
+half-teaspoonfuls on the oiled or greased paper. If the trial one
+indicated that they were slightly too stiff, lay a wet finger on each,
+sift powdered sugar over, and then put a pinch of chopped and blanched
+almonds in the centre with just enough pressure to keep them in place.
+As the macaroon spreads in the oven the almonds scatter themselves.</p>
+
+<p>Macaroons should be baked <i>about</i> twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
+They must be taken out while they are a very pale brown, but they must
+also be quite &#8220;set,&#8221; or they will fall. If the oven is too quick they
+will brown too soon; in that case leave the oven<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[289]</a></span> door open, taking care
+that no cold draught can blow on the macaroons. You can tell if they
+have browned too quickly by the cracks in them being still white and
+sticky. When done both the cracks and surface should be the same pale
+color. The macaroons must be left five minutes in the pan after leaving
+the oven without being touched. At the end of that time they may be
+gently taken off the pans <i>on the papers</i>, from which they must not be
+detached until they are quite cold. Should they stick to the paper,
+moisten the back of it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fine Ginger Dessert Cakes.</i>&mdash;Rub half a pound of fresh butter into
+three quarters of a pound of flour; beat three eggs with three quarters
+of a pound of powdered sugar and half a glass of rosewater, the grated
+peel of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of the best powdered ginger&mdash;use the
+ginger carefully, trying a level spoonful first. Then mix all into a
+paste. If the flavor of ginger is not strong enough, add more; they
+should taste well of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[290]</a></span> it, without being hot in the mouth. Roll the paste
+a quarter of an inch thick, and cut into small oval or round cakes, sift
+powdered sugar over them, and bake rather slowly a very pale brown.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[291]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXXII" id="XXXII"></a>XXXII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">FINE CAKES AND SAUCES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Madeleines.</i>&mdash;Four ounces of butter, four ounces of the best flour,
+three ounces of sugar, a teaspoonful of orange-flower water, the yolks
+of four eggs, and rind of a lemon. Beat butter, sugar, and yolks of eggs
+together, then add the other ingredients; grate in the rind of half a
+lemon, and add the well-beaten whites of eggs last of all. Fill little
+moulds that have been buttered with washed butter, cover the tops with
+split almonds and sifted sugar; bake from thirty to forty minutes in a
+moderate oven. These cakes are sometimes served hot with apricot sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chestnut Croquettes.</i>&mdash;Boil fifty sound chestnuts; take them out of the
+shells; reject all imperfect ones; keep the large pieces aside; pound
+the crumbs and most broken pieces<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[292]</a></span> with an ounce of butter till very
+smooth; then mix in a <i>small</i> cup of cream two ounces of butter and one
+ounce of powdered sugar; put the whole into a double boiler, and stir in
+the beaten yolks of six eggs. Let the mixture set. When cool, make it
+into balls; in the centre of each ball put a piece of the chestnut you
+have laid aside, dip the balls in fine cracker meal and eggs, and fry a
+very pale yellow. Serve with sifted sugar.</p>
+
+<p>Very pretty cakes, very easily made, which come under the French term
+<i>petits fours</i>, may be given here.</p>
+
+<p><i>Petits Fours.</i>&mdash;Make rich cake mixture thus: Wash three quarters of a
+pound of butter to free it from excess of salt; squeeze it dry in a
+cloth; beat it with the hand till creamy; add three quarters of a pound
+of powdered sugar; beat till light; then beat in ten eggs, one by one,
+and sift in a pound of dried and sifted flour. When all are well beaten
+together, the paste or batter is ready for use. Line some shallow pans
+(those used<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[293]</a></span> for making rolled jelly-cake are best) with buttered paper;
+spread a layer of the mixture just as you would for jelly-cake, but much
+thicker, as when baked the sheets should not be more than the third of
+an inch thick. Bake slowly. When done, remove from the oven, but leave
+the cake undisturbed till cold. If the sheets are large, they may be cut
+exactly in half, spread thinly with some stiff marmalade or jelly;
+quince or apricot is best, but any rich flavor with some tartness will
+do; lay one half on the other, and press closely and very neatly
+together. Do each sheet of cake in the same way, varying the marmalade
+if you choose. Have ready a bowl of icing (either boiled French icing or
+what is called royal icing). Dust the top of the cakes with flour, which
+must be brushed off again, as it is only to absorb the grease. Flavor
+the icing with vanilla, and lay it on the centre of the cake; let it run
+over it, aiding with a knife dipped in water (shaking off the drops,
+however). The icing needs to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[294]</a></span> be very neatly done, and must not be
+thicker than a twenty-five-cent piece. Now color the icing in the bowl
+pink, with a little cochineal, add a drop or two of extract of bitter
+almond or of lemon, either of which will agree with the vanilla that was
+in the white icing; then ice another sheet of cake in the same way; a
+third may be done with chocolate icing.</p>
+
+<p>The beauty of these cakes will depend on the way they are cut. You may
+choose to make them tablets an inch wide and three inches long, or in
+lozenge shape&mdash;the true diamond&mdash;but in either case the cutting must be
+exact. The best way to have it so is to mark the lines very lightly with
+the point of a penknife on the icing, using a measure. Trim off the edge
+of the cake with a sharp knife, so that it is neat all round, no excess
+of marmalade oozing out, or tears of icing running down. Then warm a
+sharp carving-knife (I am supposing the cake is on a board), and cut
+through the lines you have marked,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[295]</a></span> without hesitation, so that there
+may be no crumbs or roughness, which slow, over-careful cutting causes.
+When cut up you should have, if neatly done, an assortment of very
+delicious and ornamental cakes.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead">FRENCH SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS, ETC.</h3>
+
+<p><i>Sauce Mad&egrave;re &agrave; la Marmalade.</i>&mdash;A half-pound of apricot marmalade; half
+a tumbler of Madeira or sherry; boil three minutes, then pass through a
+sieve, and serve as sauce to souffl&eacute;es, cabinet puddings, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sauce des &#338;ufs au Kirsch.</i>&mdash;Beat the yolks of eight eggs, put them
+in a saucepan with half a tumbler of kirsch, five ounces of powdered
+sugar, and half the rind of a lemon grated. Stir all in a double boiler
+till the mixture sticks to the spoon; then remove from the boiling
+water; stir for a minute to prevent curdling; then it is ready to serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chaudeau Sauce.</i>&mdash;Take two whole eggs, six yolks of eggs, and eight
+lumps of sugar (each one rubbed on lemon-peel), two pints<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[296]</a></span> of Chablis,
+and the juice of half a lemon; beat them over a slow fire in a double
+boiler till a light froth is formed; be very careful the eggs do not
+curdle when the boiling-point is reached; take the sauce off the fire,
+and continue beating for a minute or two. If small streaks appear on the
+froth the sauce is done. Stir in a tablespoonful of fine rum, and the
+sauce is ready to serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sherry Sauce for Puddings.</i>&mdash;Six yolks of eggs, one ounce of sugar,
+half a pint of sherry, and the thin peel of a lemon. Beat the eggs with
+the sugar; when the wine is warm, stir them into it (let the lemon-peel
+steep in the wine while warming); stir all together till as thick as
+cream; then remove from the fire, and take out the peel. In making all
+these sauces with eggs the same precaution is required as in making
+custard.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wine Sauce</i>, No. 2.&mdash;Three gills of water, one cup of sugar, one
+teaspoonful of corn-starch, and one gill of wine. Mix the corn-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[297]</a></span>starch
+with a little water; pour the rest boiling to it, stirring till smooth;
+then add the sugar, and boil for five minutes; then add the wine and a
+few drops of essence of lemon and the same of cinnamon. Use these
+flavorings drop by drop, as they differ in strength too much for an
+exact quantity to be given, and the taste must be the guide. Rum or
+brandy may be used instead of wine; then the cinnamon is omitted.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apricot Sauces.</i>&mdash;Half a small jar of apricot jam or marmalade;
+dissolve it in three quarters of a gill of water with the juice of a
+lemon; stir in three quarters of a gill of rum. This sauce is simply
+made hot, not boiled, and may be served cold with Baba or Savarin cake.
+Greengage marmalade may be substituted.</p>
+
+<p><i>Whipped Sweet Sauce.</i>&mdash;Put the yolks of four eggs into a double
+saucepan with two ounces of sugar, one glass of sherry, the juice of one
+lemon, and a speck of salt; beat all together; then set the saucepan
+over the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[298]</a></span> fire, and whisk the sauce till it is a creamy froth, when it
+is ready to serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Very Fine Sweet Butter Sauce.</i>&mdash;Wash four ounces of butter; squeeze it
+dry; beat it to a hard sauce with half a pound of powdered sugar; then
+put the yolks of two eggs in a cold bowl; stir it a minute, then add to
+it a little of the hard sauce; when well mixed add more, about a
+teaspoonful at a time; when the hard sauce is blended with the yolks of
+eggs, stir in by degrees a wineglass of brandy or rum. Keep on ice till
+wanted.</p>
+
+<p><i>Vanilla Cream Sauce.</i>&mdash;Put half a pint of fresh cream to boil,
+reserving a tablespoonful; mix this with a teaspoonful of flour; stir it
+into the cream, with a tablespoonful of sugar, when near boiling; when
+it boils, stir for five minutes or ten in a double boiler; then pour out
+the sauce, and stir in a small teaspoonful of vanilla and a few drops of
+extract of rose or a teaspoonful of rose-water. Observe that the rose is
+used to give a different tone to the vanilla, and not to impart<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[299]</a></span> its own
+flavor, therefore very little must be used.</p>
+
+<p><i>Almond Sauce.</i>&mdash;Dissolve four ounces of almond paste in half a pint of
+sweet cream by stirring in a double boiler (the almond paste should be
+grated first); when both are hot, add a tablespoonful of sugar and the
+yolk of an egg; stir till the egg thickens, then remove from the fire
+and serve.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[300]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="XXXIII" id="XXXIII"></a>XXXIII.<br />
+
+<span class="chaptitle">SALADS AND CHEESE DISHES.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Salad</span> has come to form part of even the simplest dinners; and certainly
+cold meat and salad and excellent bread and butter make a meal by no
+means to be despised even by an epicure, while cold meat and bread and
+butter sound very untempting. The best dinner salad will perhaps always
+be white, crisp lettuce, with a simple French dressing, although, to
+those acquainted with it, escarole runs it hard, with its cool, watery
+ribs and crisp leaves. Elaborate salads, or those dressed with
+mayonnaise, are too heavy to form the latter part of an already
+sufficiently nourishing meal, but for luncheons and suppers the rich
+salad is invaluable.</p>
+
+<p>Salad which is to be eaten with game or to form a course at dinner may
+be a crisp<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[301]</a></span> white cabbage lettuce, water-cress, Romaine lettuce, or that
+most delicious form of endive, escarole.</p>
+
+<p>The dressing should be the simple French dressing, about which so much
+has been written and said, and which is so easy that perhaps it is one
+reason why so few make it well. There is nothing to remember beyond the
+proportions, and so many keep the quantity of oil, vinegar, and pepper
+and salt in mind, but the manner of using them seems of no consequence;
+but it is of so much consequence, if you do not want the vinegar on the
+leaves and the oil at the bottom of the salad bowl, that, well known as
+the formula is, I am going over it again with a few details that may
+help to fix the matter in mind.</p>
+
+<p>In the first place it must be remembered that a wet leaf will repel oil,
+therefore the lettuce or other salad must be well dried before it is
+sent to table. This is best done by swinging it in a salad basket, and
+then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[302]</a></span> spreading it between two cloths for a few minutes. Now it must be
+quite evident, if a leaf wet with water will refuse to retain oil, that
+one wet with vinegar will do the same; for this reason the leaves should
+be covered with oil <i>before</i> the vinegar is added, or the salad will be
+crude and very unlike what it should be if properly mixed in the
+following way:</p>
+
+<p>Take lettuce as the example, although any of those mentioned are made in
+the same way. Have the lettuce dry in the salad bowl, put in the
+salad-spoon a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, and,
+holding it over the bowl, fill the spoon with oil; mix the salt and
+pepper well with it, and turn it over the salad; toss the salad lightly
+over and over till the leaves glisten, then add two (if for epicures,
+three or four) more spoonfuls of oil, then toss again over and over till
+every leaf is well coated with oil; then sprinkle in a saladspoonful of
+sharp vinegar. Toss again, and the salad is ready.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[303]</a></span>One salad less well known than it deserves to be is that made from the
+grape fruit. This is an especially grateful dish for spring breakfast,
+when cool, refreshing things are in order. Many tell me they have tried
+to eat grape fruit, but find it quite impossible on account of the
+intense bitter.</p>
+
+<p>There is a very <i>slight</i> and pleasant bitter with grape fruit when
+properly prepared, but if by carelessness or ignorance even a small
+portion of the pith is left in it intense bitter is imparted to the
+whole.</p>
+
+<p><i>Grape-fruit Salad.</i>&mdash;Prepare the fruit, some hours before it is wanted,
+in the following way: Cut the fruit in four as you would an orange;
+separate the sections; then remove the pulp from each, taking care that
+no white pith or skin adheres to it. Put the pulp on the ice until just
+before serving; then dress with oil and vinegar exactly as directed for
+lettuce, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Meat or fish salads should always be dressed with mayonnaise. I say
+nothing of the well-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[304]</a></span>known lobster and chicken salads, which are so
+general that one is tempted to think the majority of people do not know
+how excellent some other combination salads are. Salmon salad&mdash;the fish
+flaked, laid on a bed of crisp lettuce with a border of the leaves, and
+masked with mayonnaise, with a garnish of aspic&mdash;is both handsome and
+delicious; but cold halibut, or even cod&mdash;any firm fish that flakes, in
+fact&mdash;make delightful salads, and acceptable to many who cannot eat
+lobster. In the way of meat salads, partridge or grouse are far daintier
+than chicken, prepared in just the same way. There is one point,
+however, which should be observed in making all meat salads: it is that
+the material should be well dressed with oil, vinegar, and condiments
+before the mayonnaise is put on. Usually one of two courses is followed:
+either the meat is left dry, the mayonnaise being supposed sufficient,
+or it is dressed with mayonnaise and then masked with it. In the latter
+case the salad is far<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[305]</a></span> too rich; in the former it is flat, because
+mayonnaise, if rightly made, has not acidity enough to flavor the meat;
+therefore it and the celery or other salad mixed with it should be
+bathed with French dressing before it is masked.</p>
+
+<p>With these general rules any salad may be made; but as variety is the
+spice of the table, it may be borne in mind that in spring a sprig of
+mint, very finely chopped, gives a fragrance to lettuce, as does chervil
+or borage, parsley, or a tiny bit of onion. To a game salad nothing
+should be added.</p>
+
+<p>No recipe is needed for mayonnaise, it having been given in the chapter
+on cold sauces.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of these chapters several cheese dishes have been given,
+but there are a few others especially appropriate to the cheese and
+salad course, where it constitutes part of the dinner, which I will
+include. Cheese dishes are far less popular in this country than in
+Europe, but there are families whose masculine members eat no sweets,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[306]</a></span>
+and for whom a dainty cheese dish would be very acceptable.</p>
+
+<p><i>Genoa Ramaquin.</i>&mdash;Cut a slice of Vienna or other baker&#8217;s bread, half an
+inch thick, lengthwise of the loaf, so that it covers the bottom of a
+fire-proof dish&mdash;a souffl&eacute; pan well buttered is excellent; beat two eggs
+and half a pint of milk together; add a level saltspoonful of salt; pour
+this custard over the bread, and leave it an hour to soak. Pour off any
+custard that may not be absorbed; dust the bread with pepper; then cover
+with the following mixture: dissolve as much rich cheese shaved in half
+a gill of cream as will cover the bread an inch thick, stirring it over
+a slow fire. Season with pepper and salt, and pour the cheese over the
+bread. Put it in the oven, and bake for half an hour, or till quite
+brown.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cheese Puffs.</i>&mdash;Line patty-pans with puff-paste, and fill three parts
+full with the following mixture: put a gill of cream in a double boiler
+with two ounces of grated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[307]</a></span> cheese (half Parmesan if liked), a
+saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, a pinch of sugar, and a large
+teaspoonful of butter; when all is melted to a thick custard, break into
+it two eggs well whipped. The mixture is only to be made hot enough to
+melt the cheese, not to boil.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cheese Sticks.</i>&mdash;Take a piece of light bread dough about the size of a
+teacup, roll it out on a pastry-board, spread it with bits of firm
+butter, dredge with flour, fold and roll, repeat until you have rolled
+in two ounces of butter, just as for puff-paste; now roll the pastry out
+the third of an inch thick, cut into strips half an inch wide and any
+length you think proper, lay them very straight on a baking-sheet, and
+bake slowly a <i>very</i> light brown; remove from the oven, let them cool,
+then brush them over with white of egg, and roll them thickly in grated
+Parmesan; return for a minute or two to the oven. These are very good
+with salad, but cannot easily be made in warm weather. Should the
+pastry<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[308]</a></span> get too soft while rolling, put it on ice, and it is better to
+do so at all times before cutting into strips, so that the &#8220;sticks&#8221; may
+be quite straight.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[309]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decshort" />
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Allemande Sauce, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.</li>
+  <li>Almond Cream, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>; Sauce, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>; Trifles, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>; Turban, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>; Water-ice, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+  <li>Apple Jelly, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>; Compote, <a href="#Page_263">263-265</a>.</li>
+  <li>Apricot Sauces, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>; Water-ices, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+  <li>Artichokes, Fried, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+  <li>Aspic, Jelly, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>; Lobster in, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>; Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>; Oysters in, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>; Reed-birds in, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Ballotines, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</li>
+  <li><a name="corr4" id="corr4"></a>B&eacute;arnaise Sauce, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li>
+  <li>B&eacute;chamel Sauce, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li>
+  <li>Beef, Fillets of, <a href="#Page_86">86-89</a>.</li>
+  <li>Beet-root Fritters, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+  <li>Birds, how to bone, <a href="#Page_172">172-175</a>; how to stuff, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li>
+  <li>Biscuits, Rout, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+  <li>Bouch&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>.</li>
+  <li>Bouquet of herbs, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Cabinet Pudding, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cakes, Dessert, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cakes and Sauces, fine, <a href="#Page_291">291-295</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chestnut Croquettes, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Madeleines, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Petits Fours, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li>
+  <li>Candied Orange and Lemon Peels, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li>
+  <li>Caper Sauce, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cardinal Sauce, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cauliflower Fritters, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+  <li>Celery Sauce, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+  <li>Charlotte Russe, <a href="#Page_281">281-283</a>.</li>
+  <li>Ch&acirc;teaubriand Sauce, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</li>
+  <li>Chaudfroid Sauce, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li>
+  <li>Chaudfroids. (See <a href="#Entrees">Entr&eacute;es</a>.)</li>
+  <li>Cheese Dishes, <a href="#Page_306">306-308</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Genoa Ramaquin, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Puffs, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sticks, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.</li>
+  <li>Chestnut Soup, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>; Croquettes, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+  <li>Chicken, &agrave; la Hollandaise, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">And Ham Cutlets, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chaudfroids of, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fritot of, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Patties, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Scallops, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead"><a name="corr5" id="corr5"></a>Tartlettes, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Timbale of, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Turtle fashion, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</li>
+  <li>Chocolate Cream Pudding, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li>
+  <li>Choice Cookery explained, <a href="#Page_1">1-3</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[310]</a></span>Chops, Lamb and Mutton, <a href="#Page_98">98-103</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cigarettes, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cinnamon, care in selecting, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>; Water-ice, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+  <li>Claret Granito, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>; Jelly, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cod, Fillets of, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cold Game Pies, <a href="#Page_183">183-190</a>.</li>
+  <li>Compote of Apples, <a href="#Page_263">263-265</a>; of Cherries, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>; of Chestnuts, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>; of Oranges, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>; of Pears, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>; of Pigeons, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>; of Strawberries, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li>
+  <li>Consomm&eacute;, <a href="#Page_51">51-55</a>.</li>
+  <li>Coquilles, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</li>
+  <li>Creams, <a href="#Page_223">223-230</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235-237</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Almond Cream, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Bohemian Jelly Creams, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cocoanut Cream, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Coffee Cream, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cura&ccedil;oa Cream, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Ginger Cream, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Hazel-nut Cream, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Here and in Europe, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Neapolitan Cream, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Nut Creams, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Pistache Cream, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Strawberry Cream, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Vanilla Cream, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Whipped Cream, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+  <li>Croquettes, Chestnut, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>; manner of preparing, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cucumber, Fillets of, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>; Fillets of Rabbit with, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>; Sauce, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>; Stuffed, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li>
+  <li>Culinary matters, <a href="#Page_79">79-85</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cura&ccedil;oa, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+  <li>Currant Water-ice, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+  <li>Currants, how to cook, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cutlets, how to prepare, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chicken and Ham, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Lamb, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mutton, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Pigeon, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Russian Salad for, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sweetbread, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Veal, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Decorations, uneatable, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</li>
+  <li>Dessert, Small Cakes for, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li>
+  <li>Downton Sauce, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li>
+  <li>Dresden Patty Cases, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li><a name="Entrees" id="Entrees"></a>Entr&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_86">86-106</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129-152</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153-171</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">A Civet, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Baked Ravioli, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cold Lamb Cutlets in Mint Jelly, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chicken Souffl&eacute;, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chicken, Turtle fashion, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cigarettes &agrave; la Chasseur, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cigarettes &agrave; la Reine, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cutlets Chaudfroid &agrave; la Russe, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Filets de B&#339;uf &agrave; la B&eacute;arnaise, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Filets de B&#339;uf aux Champignons, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fillet of Beef, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fillets of Beef &agrave; la Grande-Bretagne, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fillets of Cucumber, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fillets of Rabbit with Cucumber, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fillets of Teal with Anchovies, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fritot of Chicken, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[311]</a></span>Grenadines of Beef with Mushrooms and Poivrade Sauce, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Grenadines of Rabbit &agrave; la Soubise, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Lamb Cutlets en <a name="corr6" id="corr6"></a>Concombre, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Lamb Cutlets with a <a name="corr7" id="corr7"></a>Pur&eacute;e of Mushrooms, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Lobster Quenelles, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mutton Cutlets &agrave; la d&#8217;Uxelles, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mutton Cutlets &agrave; la <a name="corr8" id="corr8"></a>Milanais, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mutton Cutlets, or Chops, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Pigeon Cutlets, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Pigeons &agrave; la Tartare, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Quails &agrave; la Jubilee, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Quails &agrave; la Lucullus, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Salmis of Snipe, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Scallops of Chicken &agrave; la <a name="corr9" id="corr9"></a>P&eacute;rigord, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Souffl&eacute; of Partridges, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sweetbreads &agrave; la Supr&ecirc;me, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sweetbreads in Cases, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sweetbreads with Oysters, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Timbale of Chicken &agrave; la Champenois, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Timbales d&#8217;&Eacute;pinard, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Veal Cutlets &agrave; la Primrose, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+  <li>Entr&eacute;es, Cold, or Chaudfroids, <a href="#Page_153">153-171</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Allumettes, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Canap&eacute;s &agrave; la Bismarck, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Caviare Canap&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chaudfroid of Reed-birds, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chaudfroids of Chicken, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cheese Biscuits &agrave; la St. James, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chicken and Ham Cutlets, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chicken Salad &agrave; la Prince, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cold Cheese Souffl&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cro&ucirc;tes de Fromage Glac&eacute;, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Eggs &agrave; la St. James, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Iced Savory Souffl&eacute;, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Kluskis of Cream Cheese, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Oysters &agrave; la St. George, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Prawns en Surprise, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Prince of Wales Canap&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Reed-birds in Aspic, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Savage Club Canap&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Savories, <a href="#Page_162">162-164</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Shrimp Canap&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sweetbread au Montpellier, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li>
+  <li>Entr&eacute;es, Fish, <a href="#Page_61">61-70</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Coquilles of Prawns, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Coquilles of Salmon or Halibut, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fillet of Flounders, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fillet of Sole &agrave; la Normande, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fillets of Cod &agrave; la Normande, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Lobster in Aspic, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Lobster Souffl&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Salmon en Papillotes, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sole &agrave; l&#8217;Horly, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Turbans of Sole &agrave; la Rouennaise, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</li>
+  <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[312]</a></span>Espagnole Sauce, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Fillet, how to, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</li>
+  <li>Fillets of Rabbits, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</li>
+  <li>Flavorings and Liqueurs, <a href="#Page_210">210-212</a>.</li>
+  <li>Flounders, Fillet of, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li>
+  <li>Fritters, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+  <li>Fruits, Mac&eacute;doine of, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li>
+  <li>Frying, directions for, <a href="#Page_91">91-95</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Galantines, <a href="#Page_172">172-177</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Of Breast of Veal, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Of Sucking Pig, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</li>
+  <li>Game Pie, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">English manner of making, in a crust, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Filling the case of, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">French method of making, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+  <li>Game, Salad to eat with, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>.</li>
+  <li>Garnishes, <a href="#Page_191">191-198</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Colored Custard, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Profiterolles, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Spinach Juice, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Stuffed Artichokes, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+  <li>Gelatine, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>; right proportion for jelly, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</li>
+  <li>Ginger Cream, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>; Dessert Cakes, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>; Water-ice, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+  <li>Glaze, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>; how to preserve, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li>
+  <li>Graniti, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Claret Granito, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sherry Granito, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">To freeze, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+  <li>Grape-fruit Salad, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li>
+  <li>Grenadines of Rabbit, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Ham, <a name="corr10" id="corr10"></a>Pur&eacute;e of, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li>
+  <li>Herbs, French, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>; how to chop, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>; what required, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li>
+  <li>Horseradish Sauce, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Ice-creams and Ices, <a href="#Page_246">246-256</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Almond Water-ice, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Apricot Water-ice, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chinese Ice, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cinnamon Water-ice, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Currant Water-ice, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Custard for Ice-cream, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fruit Jam and Jellies with Ice-cream, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Ginger Water-ice, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Grilled Almond Ice-cream, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Ice-cream with Eggs, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Pineapple Water-ice, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Pistachio Water-ice, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Simplest Fruit Ice-cream, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Tea Ice-cream, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Tutti-frutti Ice-cream, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li>
+  <li>Ice Pudding, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+  <li>Iced Custard with Fruit, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li>
+  <li>Iced Puddings, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Jellies, <a href="#Page_208">208-225</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Aspic Jelly, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Consistency of Jelly, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Jellied Raspberries, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Jelly with Candied Fruits, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Jelly with Fresh Fruits, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mint Jelly, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mould of Apple Jelly, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Plain Claret Jelly, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Right proportions of Gelatine for Jelly, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Roman Punch Jellies, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Kabobs, Oyster, <a href="#Page_72">72-74</a>.</li>
+  <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[313]</a></span>Kromeskies, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Lamb Cutlets, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li>
+  <li>Lemon Baskets, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>; Peels, Candied, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li>
+  <li>Lemons, how to grate, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li>
+  <li>Liqueurs and Flavorings, <a href="#Page_210">210-212</a>.</li>
+  <li>Lobster, in Aspic, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>; Quenelles, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>; Sauce, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>; Souffl&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Macaroons, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</li>
+  <li><a name="corr11" id="corr11"></a>Mac&eacute;doine of Fruits, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li>
+  <li>Madeleines, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+  <li>Maraschino, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+  <li>Matelote Sauce, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li>
+  <li>Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li>
+  <li>Meal, quantity to be used, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li>
+  <li><a name="corr12" id="corr12"></a>M&eacute;ringue Paste, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+  <li>Mint Jelly, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li>
+  <li>Mother Sauces, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</li>
+  <li>Mushroom Baskets, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li>
+  <li>Mushroom Jelly, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+  <li>Mushrooms and Tomatoes, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+  <li>Mushrooms, Stuffed, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+  <li>Mutton Cutlets, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Neapolitan Cream, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li>
+  <li>Norwegian Sauce, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li>
+  <li>Nut Creams, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235-237</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Onion, Spanish, <a href="#Page_202">202-204</a>.</li>
+  <li>Orange Baskets, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li>
+  <li>Orange Compote, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li>
+  <li>Orange Sauce, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li>
+  <li>Oyster Kabobs, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>; Sauce, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+  <li>Oysters, <a href="#Page_71">71-78</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">&Agrave; la Tartare, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">&Agrave; la Villeroi, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">In Aspic, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Various ways of serving, <a href="#Page_71">71-78</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Papillotes, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+  <li>Parsley Sauce, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+  <li>Partridges, Souffl&eacute; of, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>.</li>
+  <li>Patties, <a href="#Page_116">116-124</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chicken, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Dresden Cases for, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Oyster, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sweetbread, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>.</li>
+  <li>Pears, &agrave; la Princesse, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>; Compote of, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li>
+  <li>Petits Fours, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li>
+  <li>Pies, Game, <a href="#Page_183">183-190</a>.</li>
+  <li>Pigeon Cutlets, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li>
+  <li>Pigeons, &agrave; la Tartare, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>; Compote of, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li>
+  <li>Pineapple Water-ice, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li>
+  <li>Piquante Sauce, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li>
+  <li>Pistache Cream, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+  <li>Pistachio Water-ice, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+  <li>Poivrade Sauce, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</li>
+  <li>Potage, &agrave; la Hollandaise, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>; &agrave; la Royale, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</li>
+  <li>Potatoes, &agrave; la Proven&ccedil;ale, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>; Milanese, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>; Scalloped, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+  <li>Poulette Sauce, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</li>
+  <li>Prawns, Coquilles of, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li>
+  <li>Princess Soup, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</li>
+  <li>Profiterolles, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li>
+  <li>Puddings, <a href="#Page_230">230-234</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238-246</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Bombay Ice Pudding, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chocolate Cream Pudding, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cold Cabinet Pudding, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cold Souffl&eacute; Pudding, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Diplomatic Pudding, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Filbert and Wine Iced Pudding, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Frangipanni Iced Pudding, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Frozen Pudding, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[314]</a></span>Ice Pudding, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Iced Cabinet Pudding, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Iced Custard with Fruit, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Iced Jelly Pudding, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Iced Puddings, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Imperial Rice Pudding, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Jubilee Pudding, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Rice &agrave; la Princesse, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sauces for, <a href="#Page_295">295-299</a>.</li>
+  <li>Puffs, Cheese, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</li>
+  <li><a name="corr13" id="corr13"></a>Pur&eacute;e of Ham, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Quenelles for entr&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_125">125-129</a>; for soups, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Rabbit, Grenadines of, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>; Fillets of, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</li>
+  <li>Rabbits, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li>
+  <li>Raspberries, how to cook, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>; Jellied, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li>
+  <li>Ratafia, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+  <li>Ravioli, Baked, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</li>
+  <li>Red Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li>
+  <li>Reed-birds, Chaudfroids of, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>; in Aspic, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li>
+  <li>Rice Pudding, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li>
+  <li>Rissoles, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</li>
+  <li>Robert Sauce, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li>
+  <li>Roman Punch Jellies, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li>
+  <li>Rout Biscuits, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+  <li>Russian Salad for Cutlets, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Salads, <a href="#Page_300">300-305</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Best dinner, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">For Cutlets, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Grape-fruit, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">How to dress, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">To eat with game, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>.</li>
+  <li>Salmis of Snipe, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</li>
+  <li>Salmon, Coquilles of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>; en Papillotes, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+  <li>Sauces, <a href="#Page_11">11-22</a>; 23-32; 33-41; 42-50.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">&Agrave; la d&#8217;Uxelles, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">&Agrave; la Normande, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Allemande, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Almond, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Apricot, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Aspic Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead"><a name="corr14" id="corr14"></a>B&eacute;arnaise, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">B&eacute;chamel, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Blonde, or White, <a href="#Page_13">13-32</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Bordelaise, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Brown, <a href="#Page_33">33-41</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Caper, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cardinal, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Celery, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Ch&acirc;teaubriand, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chaudfroid, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cold Cucumber, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cold Sauces, <a href="#Page_42">42-50</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Consistency of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cucumber, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Des &#338;ufs au Kirsch, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Downton, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Espagnole, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Green Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Hollandaise, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Horseradish, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">How to stir, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Light Normande, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Lobster, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mad&egrave;re &agrave; la Marmalade, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Matelote, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mint, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mother Sauces, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Norwegian, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Orange, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Oyster, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Parsley, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[315]</a></span>Piquante, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Poivrade, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Poulette, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Red Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Robert, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Rule for seasoning, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sherry, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Shrimp, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Soubise, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Ste. <a name="corr15" id="corr15"></a>M&eacute;nehould, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Supr&ecirc;me, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sweet Butter, very fine, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Sweet, French, for Puddings, <a href="#Page_295">295-299</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Tartare, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Vanilla Cream, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Velout&eacute;, or White, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Villeroi, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Wine, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Whipped Sweet, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">White, <a href="#Page_23">23-32</a>.</li>
+  <li>Saut&eacute;ing, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</li>
+  <li>Scalloped Potatoes, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+  <li>Scallops of Chicken, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+  <li>Sherry Granito, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>; Sauce, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+  <li>Shrimp Sauce, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li>
+  <li>Sole, &agrave; l&#8217;Horly, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>; &agrave; la Normande, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>; Rouennaise, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</li>
+  <li>Soubise Sauce, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>; with Grenadines of Rabbit, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li>
+  <li>Souffl&eacute; of Chicken, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>; of Lobster, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>; of Partridges, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>; of Tomato, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li>
+  <li>Soups, <a href="#Page_51">51-60</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Chestnut, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Consomm&eacute; &agrave; la Rachel, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Consomm&eacute; &agrave; la S&eacute;vign&eacute;, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Potage &agrave; la Hollandaise, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Potage &agrave; la Royale, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Princess, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">To clear Consomm&eacute;, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.</li>
+  <li>Spanish Onion, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+  <li>Spices and herbs required, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li>
+  <li>Spinach Fritters, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>; Juice, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li>
+  <li>Ste. M&eacute;nehould Sauce, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li>
+  <li>Stock, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>; to reduce to Glaze, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>.</li>
+  <li>Strawberries, how to cook, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>; Compote of, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li>
+  <li>Strawberry Cream, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+  <li>Stuffed Artichokes, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>; Cucumbers, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li>
+  <li>Sucking Pig, Ballotines of, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</li>
+  <li>Supr&ecirc;me Sauce, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li>
+  <li>Sweet Sauce for Puddings, <a href="#Page_295">295-299</a>.</li>
+  <li>Sweetbreads &agrave; la Supr&ecirc;me, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>; au Montpellier, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>; braised, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>; Cutlets of, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>; in Cases, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>; Patties, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>; with Oysters, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+  <li>Sweets, <a href="#Page_262">262-280</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Almond Trifles, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Almond Turban, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Charlotte Russe with Gelatine, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Compote of Apple Marmalade, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Compote of Apples or Pears Grill&eacute;, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Compote of Cherries, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Compote of Oranges, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Compote of Pears, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Compote of Strawberries, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Compote of Stuffed Apples, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Compotes of Apple, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Compotes of Chestnuts, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fine Small Dessert Cakes, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[316]</a></span>Ginger Dessert Cakes, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Lemon Baskets, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Little China Dishes, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Macaroons, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Orange Baskets filled with fruit, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Orange Basket Glac&eacute;, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Pears &agrave; la Princesse, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Pink Compote, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Raspberry Charlotte Russe, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Rout Biscuits, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Swiss Vacherin, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Variegated Compote of Pears, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Tartare Sauce, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li>
+  <li>Teal with Anchovies, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li>
+  <li>Timbale of Chicken, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+  <li>Timbales d&#8217;&Eacute;pinard, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li>
+  <li>Tomato Jelly, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>; Souffl&eacute;, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li>
+  <li>Tomatoes and Mushrooms, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+  <li>Trifles, Almond, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li>
+  <li>Turban, Almond, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li>
+  <li>Turbans of Sole, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Uneatable decorations, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Vacherin, Swiss, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.</li>
+  <li>Vanilla Cream, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>; Cream Sauce, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</li>
+  <li>Variegated Compote of Pears, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li>
+  <li>Veal Cutlets &agrave; la Primrose, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+  <li>Vegetables, <a href="#Page_197">197-207</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">A few ways of cooking, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Beet-root Fritters, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cauliflower Fritters, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Fried Artichokes, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Milanese Potatoes, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mushroom Baskets, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mushroom Jelly, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mushrooms and Tomatoes, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Mushrooms stuffed &agrave; la Lucullus, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Potatoes &agrave; la Proven&ccedil;ale, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Scalloped Potatoes, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Spanish or Portuguese Onion, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Spinach Fritters, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Stuffed Cucumbers, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Stuffed Spanish Onion, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Tomato Jelly, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Tomato Souffl&eacute;, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Various ways of serving, <a href="#Page_199">199-207</a>.</li>
+  <li>Velout&eacute;, or White Sauce, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</li>
+  <li>Villeroi Sauce, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li>
+  <li>Water-ices, <a href="#Page_253">253-256</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Almond, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Apricot, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Cinnamon, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Currant, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Ginger, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Pineapple, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li>
+    <li class="subhead">Pistachio, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+  <li>Whipped Cream, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>; Sweet Sauces, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+  <li>White Sauces, <a href="#Page_23">23-32</a>.</li>
+  <li>Wine, Iced Pudding, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>; Sauces, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 3em;">THE END.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead">MISS CORSON&#8217;S FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR.</h2>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="hanging">Family Living on $500 a Year. A Daily Reference Book for Young and
+Inexperienced Housewives. By <span class="smcap">Juliet Corson</span>. 16mo, Cloth, $1 25.</p>
+
+<p>If we ever get as much as $500 a year we shall purchase this book and
+live like a prince.... It goes carefully through the expenses of daily
+living, and indicates the thousand and one ways in which a penny can be
+saved and another penny put where it will do most good. A book of this
+kind placed in the hands of those who have very limited means will show
+that they can live very comfortably and have quite enough to eat on a
+very small sum.&mdash;<i>N. Y. Herald.</i></p>
+
+<p>It is a helpful working book, sensible and practical, and tells how to
+buy, cook, and serve all sorts of food; how to can, pickle, and
+preserve; and how to arrange and serve luncheons, dinners, and teas, all
+in the most economical manner consistent with appetizing
+results.&mdash;<i>Sunday-School Times</i>, Philadelphia.</p>
+
+<p>Food-economist, cook-book, and instructor in table service all in
+one.... The book is a capital one, and every housekeeper should feel
+grateful to the able and painstaking author.&mdash;<i>N. Y. Post.</i></p>
+
+<p>The production of a lady who understands her subject thoroughly, and who
+earnestly wishes to help others towards the same useful knowledge.... A
+book of this sort (and Miss Corson is the best able to produce it of any
+one we know) is a great aid, and the more it is circulated the more
+households will be made happy.&mdash;<i>Churchman</i>, N. Y.</p>
+
+<p>Every house-keeper, whether coming within the scope of the author&#8217;s
+effort or not, will find many instructive hints, a due regard for which
+will be conducive to the improved physical well-being and increased
+mental serenity of the various members of her household.&mdash;<i>St. Louis
+Republican.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="titlepage smcap">Published by HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, New York.</p>
+
+<p class="titlepage">&#9758; <span class="smcap">Harper &amp; Brothers</span> <i>will send the above work by mail, postage<br />
+prepaid, to any part of the United States or<br />
+Canada, on receipt of the price.</i></p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead">MRS. SHERWOOD&#8217;S MANNERS AND SOCIAL USAGES IN AMERICA.</h2>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="hanging">Manners and Social Usages in America. A Book of Etiquette. By Mrs. <span class="smcap">John
+Sherwood</span>. <a name="corr16" id="corr16"></a>pp. 448. New and Enlarged Edition, Revised by the Author.
+16mo, Extra Cloth, $1 25.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Sherwood&#8217;s admirable little volume differs from ordinary works on
+the subject of etiquette, chiefly in the two facts that it is founded on
+its author&#8217;s personal familiarity with the usages of really good
+society, and that it is inspired by good-sense and a helpful spirit....
+We think Mrs. Sherwood&#8217;s little book the very best and most sensible one
+of its kind that we ever saw.&mdash;<i>N. Y. Commercial Advertiser.</i></p>
+
+<p>We have no hesitation in declaring it to be the best work of the kind
+yet published. The author shows a just appreciation of what is
+good-breeding and what is snobbishness.... In happy discriminations the
+excellence of Mrs. Sherwood&#8217;s book is conspicuous.&mdash;<i>Brooklyn Union.</i></p>
+
+<p>It is a sensible and pleasantly written volume, which has already won
+recognition as one of the best books of its kind, and this new edition
+is called for by the heartiness with which the public has endorsed the
+work.&mdash;<i>Courier</i>, Boston.</p>
+
+<p>A sensible, comprehensive book, which has endured criticism
+successfully, and deserves now to be regarded the best book of its kind
+published in this country.... A better guide than Mrs. Sherwood&#8217;s book
+through the paths of social usages we do not know. The book is a
+handsome one, as it ought to be.&mdash;<i>Christian Intelligencer</i>, N. Y.</p>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="titlepage smcap">Published by HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, New York.</p>
+
+<p class="titlepage">&#9758; <span class="smcap">Harper &amp; Brothers</span> <i>will send the above work by mail, postage<br />
+prepaid, to any part of the United States or<br />
+Canada, on receipt of the price.</i></p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead">BOOKS FOR THE HOUSEHOLD.</h2>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="hanging">MRS. HENDERSON&#8217;S PRACTICAL COOKING. Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving.
+A Treatise containing Practical Instructions in Cooking; in the
+Combination and Serving of Dishes, and in the Fashionable modes of
+Entertaining at Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner. By <span class="smcap">Mary F. Henderson</span>.
+Illustrated. 12mo, Water-proof Cover, <a name="corr17" id="corr17"></a>$1 50.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">MRS. HENDERSON&#8217;S DIET FOR THE SICK. Diet for the Sick. A Treatise on the
+Values of Foods, their Application to Special Conditions of Health and
+Disease, and on the Best Methods of their Preparation. By <span class="smcap">Mary F.
+Henderson</span>. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">MRS. WASHINGTON&#8217;S UNRIVALLED COOKBOOK. The Unrivalled Cook-Book and
+House-keeper&#8217;s Guide. By <span class="smcap">Mrs. Washington</span>. 12mo, Water-proof Cover, $2
+00.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">MRS. SMITH&#8217;S VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. Virginia Cookery-Book. By <span class="smcap">Mary
+Stuart Smith</span>. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50; 4to, Paper, 25 cents.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">BAZAR COOKING RECEIPTS. Cooking Receipts from <i>Harper&#8217;s Bazar</i>. 32mo,
+Paper, 25 cents; Cloth, 40 cents.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">MISS OAKEY&#8217;S BEAUTY IN DRESS. Beauty in Dress. By <span class="smcap">Miss Oakey</span>. 16mo,
+Cloth, $1 00.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">MRS. DEWING&#8217;S (MISS OAKEY) BEAUTY IN THE HOUSEHOLD. Beauty in the
+Household. By Mrs. <span class="smcap">T. W. Dewing</span>, Author of &#8220;Beauty in Dress.&#8221;
+Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">COAN&#8217;S OUNCES OF PREVENTION. Ounces of Prevention. By <span class="smcap">Titus Munson Coan</span>,
+M.D. 12mo, Paper, 25 cents; Cloth, 50 cents.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">MRS. CHURCH&#8217;S MONEY-MAKING FOR LADIES. Money-Making for Ladies. By <span class="smcap">Ella
+Rodman Church</span>. 16mo, Cloth, 90 cents.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">WALKER&#8217;S HINTS TO WOMEN ON THE CARE OF PROPERTY. Hints to Women on the
+Care of Property. By <span class="smcap">Alfred Walker</span>. 32mo, Paper, 20 cents; Cloth, 35
+cents.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">MISS CORSON&#8217;S FAMILY LIVING. Family Living on $500 a Year. A Daily
+Reference Book for Young and Inexperienced Housewives. By <span class="smcap">Juliet
+Corson</span>. 16mo, Cloth, $1 25.</p>
+
+<p class="hanging">MRS. HERRICK&#8217;S HOUSE-KEEPING MADE EASY. House-keeping Made Easy. By
+<span class="smcap">Christine Terhune Herrick</span>. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00.</p>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="titlepage smcap">Published by HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, New York.</p>
+
+
+<p class="titlepage">&#9758; <span class="smcap">Harper &amp; Brothers</span> <i>will send any of the above works, postage<br />
+prepaid, to any part of the United States or<br />
+Canada, on receipt of the price.</i></p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+<div class="tn">
+<p class="titlepage"><a name="trans_note" id="trans_note"></a><b>Transcriber&rsquo;s&nbsp;Note</b></p>
+
+<p class="noindent">The following typographical errors were corrected.</p>
+
+<table style="margin-left: 0%;" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="typos">
+<tr>
+  <td><b>Page</b></td>
+  <td><b>Error</b></td>
+  <td><b>Correction</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr1">6</a></td>
+  <td>allemande is the same</td>
+  <td>Allemande is the same</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr2">160</a></td>
+  <td>p&acirc;te de foie gras</td>
+  <td>p&acirc;t&eacute; de foie gras</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr3">166</a></td>
+  <td>Caviary Canap&eacute;s</td>
+  <td>Caviare Canap&eacute;s</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr4">309</a></td>
+  <td>Bearnaise Sauce</td>
+  <td>B&eacute;arnaise Sauce</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr5">309</a></td>
+  <td>Tartlets</td>
+  <td>Tartlettes</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr6">311</a></td>
+  <td>Coucombre</td>
+  <td>Concombre</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr7">311</a></td>
+  <td>Puree of Mushrooms</td>
+  <td>Pur&eacute;e of Mushrooms</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr8">311</a></td>
+  <td>&agrave; la Milanaise</td>
+  <td>&agrave; la Milanais</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr9">311</a></td>
+  <td>&agrave; la Perigord</td>
+  <td>&agrave; la P&eacute;rigord</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr10">312</a></td>
+  <td>Ham, Puree of</td>
+  <td>Ham, Pur&eacute;e of</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr11">313</a></td>
+  <td>Macedoine of Fruits</td>
+  <td>Mac&eacute;doine of Fruits</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr12">313</a></td>
+  <td>Meringue Paste</td>
+  <td>M&eacute;ringue Paste</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr13">314</a></td>
+  <td>Puree of Ham</td>
+  <td>Pur&eacute;e of Ham</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr14">314</a></td>
+  <td>Bearnaise</td>
+  <td>B&eacute;arnaise</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr15">315</a></td>
+  <td>Ste. Menehould</td>
+  <td>Ste. M&eacute;nehould</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr16">Ad 2</a></td>
+  <td>pp.448.</td>
+  <td>pp. 448.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr17">Ad 3</a></td>
+  <td>12mo, Cloth, $1&nbsp;50</td>
+  <td>12mo, Cloth, $1&nbsp;50.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="noindent">The following words were inconsistently spelled and hyphenated:</p>
+
+<p class="noindent">blond / blonde<br />
+cocoa-nut / cocoanut<br />
+house-keeper / housekeeper<br />
+lemon-juice / lemon juice<br />
+pepper-corns / peppercorns<br />
+ramequin / ramekin<br />
+rose-water / rosewater<br />
+salt-spoonful / saltspoonful<br />
+souffl&eacute; / souffl&eacute;e<br />
+Souffl&eacute; / Souffl&eacute;e<br />
+souffl&eacute;s / souffl&eacute;es<br />
+Souffl&eacute;s / Souffl&eacute;es<br />
+under-side / underside<br />
+water-cress / watercress</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Choice Cookery, by Catherine Owen
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHOICE COOKERY ***
+
+***** This file should be named 26311-h.htm or 26311-h.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/3/1/26311/
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+https://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     https://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
+
+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/26311-page-images/f0001.png b/26311-page-images/f0001.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7e6488b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/f0001.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/f0002.png b/26311-page-images/f0002.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c6c2042
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/f0002.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/f0003.png b/26311-page-images/f0003.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4466de9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/f0003.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/f0004.png b/26311-page-images/f0004.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7d004d2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/f0004.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/f0005.png b/26311-page-images/f0005.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..26865be
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/f0005.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/f0006.png b/26311-page-images/f0006.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d392ff1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/f0006.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0001.png b/26311-page-images/p0001.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ce041e0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0001.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0002.png b/26311-page-images/p0002.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e899fc0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0002.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0003.png b/26311-page-images/p0003.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a181f95
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0003.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0004.png b/26311-page-images/p0004.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fe8ab9a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0004.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0005.png b/26311-page-images/p0005.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..547ab81
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0005.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0006.png b/26311-page-images/p0006.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d29b3af
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0006.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0007.png b/26311-page-images/p0007.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..277ebed
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0007.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0008.png b/26311-page-images/p0008.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..838ba19
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0008.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0009.png b/26311-page-images/p0009.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dcefa36
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0009.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0010.png b/26311-page-images/p0010.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1258f8b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0010.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0011.png b/26311-page-images/p0011.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6c591fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0011.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0012.png b/26311-page-images/p0012.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..87c2cf8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0012.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0013.png b/26311-page-images/p0013.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f157335
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0013.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0014.png b/26311-page-images/p0014.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b3725c2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0014.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0015.png b/26311-page-images/p0015.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5aaaed9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0015.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0016.png b/26311-page-images/p0016.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..193c3c7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0016.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0017.png b/26311-page-images/p0017.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1b96416
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0017.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0018.png b/26311-page-images/p0018.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..907ba22
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0018.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0019.png b/26311-page-images/p0019.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..524601a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0019.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0020.png b/26311-page-images/p0020.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1a1f2ed
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0020.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0021.png b/26311-page-images/p0021.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..01ae0e7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0021.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0022.png b/26311-page-images/p0022.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..826dd14
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0022.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0023.png b/26311-page-images/p0023.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d2d83ae
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0023.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0024.png b/26311-page-images/p0024.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6a93193
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0024.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0025.png b/26311-page-images/p0025.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ce1247a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0025.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0026.png b/26311-page-images/p0026.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6ea8480
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0026.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0027.png b/26311-page-images/p0027.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7f9d5b1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0027.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0028.png b/26311-page-images/p0028.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ed2b7ec
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0028.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0029.png b/26311-page-images/p0029.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..62bf715
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0029.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0030.png b/26311-page-images/p0030.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..21d3b64
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0030.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0031.png b/26311-page-images/p0031.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5665538
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0031.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0032.png b/26311-page-images/p0032.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9fdcab0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0032.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0033.png b/26311-page-images/p0033.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0671b9f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0033.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0034.png b/26311-page-images/p0034.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..baf1fff
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0034.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0035.png b/26311-page-images/p0035.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a30ae0e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0035.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0036.png b/26311-page-images/p0036.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..470c285
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0036.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0037.png b/26311-page-images/p0037.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..92113c0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0037.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0038.png b/26311-page-images/p0038.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4b9896d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0038.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0039.png b/26311-page-images/p0039.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cc6d4fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0039.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0040.png b/26311-page-images/p0040.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..93a59a4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0040.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0041.png b/26311-page-images/p0041.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..059d04e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0041.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0042.png b/26311-page-images/p0042.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b004d8e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0042.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0043.png b/26311-page-images/p0043.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..470cd22
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0043.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0044.png b/26311-page-images/p0044.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b62efd6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0044.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0045.png b/26311-page-images/p0045.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9258133
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0045.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0046.png b/26311-page-images/p0046.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..75633be
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0046.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0047.png b/26311-page-images/p0047.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7c007e9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0047.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0048.png b/26311-page-images/p0048.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..92277cc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0048.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0049.png b/26311-page-images/p0049.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0c6e6e7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0049.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0050.png b/26311-page-images/p0050.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..16526fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0050.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0051.png b/26311-page-images/p0051.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2b545b6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0051.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0052.png b/26311-page-images/p0052.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..49db8ec
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0052.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0053.png b/26311-page-images/p0053.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8bbbbc6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0053.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0054.png b/26311-page-images/p0054.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eb1b4a7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0054.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0055.png b/26311-page-images/p0055.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..71207d5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0055.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0056.png b/26311-page-images/p0056.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5745c81
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0056.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0057.png b/26311-page-images/p0057.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8f233a6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0057.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0058.png b/26311-page-images/p0058.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8bd1f5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0058.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0059.png b/26311-page-images/p0059.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c193a36
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0059.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0060.png b/26311-page-images/p0060.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..030249d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0060.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0061.png b/26311-page-images/p0061.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..33588f0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0061.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0062.png b/26311-page-images/p0062.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f15dbd6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0062.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0063.png b/26311-page-images/p0063.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..77483c2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0063.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0064.png b/26311-page-images/p0064.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..90a9218
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0064.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0065.png b/26311-page-images/p0065.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9b76195
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0065.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0066.png b/26311-page-images/p0066.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f328193
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0066.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0067.png b/26311-page-images/p0067.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..88fbca4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0067.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0068.png b/26311-page-images/p0068.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ebcec9b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0068.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0069.png b/26311-page-images/p0069.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..75877f5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0069.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0070.png b/26311-page-images/p0070.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..088393a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0070.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0071.png b/26311-page-images/p0071.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..deaa07d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0071.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0072.png b/26311-page-images/p0072.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..95f3173
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0072.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0073.png b/26311-page-images/p0073.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d5a9969
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0073.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0074.png b/26311-page-images/p0074.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4c8cad5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0074.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0075.png b/26311-page-images/p0075.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5cc82e8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0075.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0076.png b/26311-page-images/p0076.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..544faf2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0076.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0077.png b/26311-page-images/p0077.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f680808
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0077.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0078.png b/26311-page-images/p0078.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..af2fbb1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0078.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0079.png b/26311-page-images/p0079.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..06b7b8d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0079.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0080.png b/26311-page-images/p0080.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a02a761
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0080.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0081.png b/26311-page-images/p0081.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b6f8a54
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0081.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0082.png b/26311-page-images/p0082.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2619e9b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0082.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0083.png b/26311-page-images/p0083.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4f1624e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0083.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0084.png b/26311-page-images/p0084.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..459f744
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0084.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0085.png b/26311-page-images/p0085.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9a545c8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0085.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0086.png b/26311-page-images/p0086.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1176bcd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0086.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0087.png b/26311-page-images/p0087.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..19a2416
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0087.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0088.png b/26311-page-images/p0088.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..865e4c2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0088.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0089.png b/26311-page-images/p0089.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5700779
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0089.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0090.png b/26311-page-images/p0090.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5f9b116
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0090.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0091.png b/26311-page-images/p0091.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..32cf370
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0091.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0092.png b/26311-page-images/p0092.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9b28f9f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0092.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0093.png b/26311-page-images/p0093.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b2e46fc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0093.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0094.png b/26311-page-images/p0094.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f053521
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0094.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0095.png b/26311-page-images/p0095.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c478879
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0095.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0096.png b/26311-page-images/p0096.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e993f30
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0096.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0097.png b/26311-page-images/p0097.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a54daff
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0097.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0098.png b/26311-page-images/p0098.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..454441a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0098.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0099.png b/26311-page-images/p0099.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e9108bd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0099.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0100.png b/26311-page-images/p0100.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4955cfd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0100.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0101.png b/26311-page-images/p0101.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3dfb4e9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0101.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0102.png b/26311-page-images/p0102.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e1c017b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0102.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0103.png b/26311-page-images/p0103.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e491a89
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0103.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0104.png b/26311-page-images/p0104.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c2de151
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0104.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0105.png b/26311-page-images/p0105.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a715d37
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0105.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0106.png b/26311-page-images/p0106.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f6120eb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0106.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0107.png b/26311-page-images/p0107.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8828772
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0107.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0108.png b/26311-page-images/p0108.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..39ed574
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0108.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0109.png b/26311-page-images/p0109.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b06aa33
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0109.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0110.png b/26311-page-images/p0110.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ec04083
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0110.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0111.png b/26311-page-images/p0111.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cde7c07
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0111.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0112.png b/26311-page-images/p0112.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c664596
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0112.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0113.png b/26311-page-images/p0113.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..41bffec
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0113.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0114.png b/26311-page-images/p0114.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..28d332d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0114.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0115.png b/26311-page-images/p0115.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e927cdf
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0115.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0116.png b/26311-page-images/p0116.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7c56829
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0116.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0117.png b/26311-page-images/p0117.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0bf7b24
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0117.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0118.png b/26311-page-images/p0118.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..927162d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0118.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0119.png b/26311-page-images/p0119.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..88d5fda
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0119.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0120.png b/26311-page-images/p0120.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5ac16e2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0120.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0121.png b/26311-page-images/p0121.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1703cb3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0121.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0122.png b/26311-page-images/p0122.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c9e69b0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0122.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0123.png b/26311-page-images/p0123.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..da77561
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0123.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0124.png b/26311-page-images/p0124.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c0f6d18
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0124.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0125.png b/26311-page-images/p0125.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..458a81b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0125.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0126.png b/26311-page-images/p0126.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0541aef
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0126.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0127.png b/26311-page-images/p0127.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..62d96ae
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0127.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0128.png b/26311-page-images/p0128.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..85777a3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0128.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0129.png b/26311-page-images/p0129.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4c1b6fe
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0129.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0130.png b/26311-page-images/p0130.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0fece4f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0130.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0131.png b/26311-page-images/p0131.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..875778e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0131.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0132.png b/26311-page-images/p0132.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d4e79cf
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0132.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0133.png b/26311-page-images/p0133.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4912a26
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0133.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0134.png b/26311-page-images/p0134.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..55ceea5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0134.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0135.png b/26311-page-images/p0135.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8abd85a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0135.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0136.png b/26311-page-images/p0136.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c628838
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0136.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0137.png b/26311-page-images/p0137.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6a1e526
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0137.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0138.png b/26311-page-images/p0138.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0b716a5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0138.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0139.png b/26311-page-images/p0139.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a2fcc93
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0139.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0140.png b/26311-page-images/p0140.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4aa33a4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0140.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0141.png b/26311-page-images/p0141.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8ba0543
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0141.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0142.png b/26311-page-images/p0142.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4717f49
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0142.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0143.png b/26311-page-images/p0143.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..57e0745
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0143.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0144.png b/26311-page-images/p0144.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1dd9115
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0144.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0145.png b/26311-page-images/p0145.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d79ce4e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0145.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0146.png b/26311-page-images/p0146.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a4659a1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0146.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0147.png b/26311-page-images/p0147.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..857507e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0147.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0148.png b/26311-page-images/p0148.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2b6caec
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0148.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0149.png b/26311-page-images/p0149.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3eefbbb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0149.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0150.png b/26311-page-images/p0150.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..359434a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0150.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0151.png b/26311-page-images/p0151.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ae19148
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0151.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0152.png b/26311-page-images/p0152.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9e72409
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0152.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0153.png b/26311-page-images/p0153.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ddb3ee6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0153.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0154.png b/26311-page-images/p0154.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..71b39fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0154.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0155.png b/26311-page-images/p0155.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c65ba5e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0155.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0156.png b/26311-page-images/p0156.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4902f88
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0156.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0157.png b/26311-page-images/p0157.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b78536a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0157.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0158.png b/26311-page-images/p0158.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8bcbfb9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0158.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0159.png b/26311-page-images/p0159.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6b31a92
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0159.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0160.png b/26311-page-images/p0160.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a72c51e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0160.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0161.png b/26311-page-images/p0161.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8c03bdc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0161.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0162.png b/26311-page-images/p0162.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..67cf92f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0162.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0163.png b/26311-page-images/p0163.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0385f4f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0163.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0164.png b/26311-page-images/p0164.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..317f885
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0164.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0165.png b/26311-page-images/p0165.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4a23f23
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0165.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0166.png b/26311-page-images/p0166.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ba7ea5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0166.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0167.png b/26311-page-images/p0167.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a4d94a4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0167.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0168.png b/26311-page-images/p0168.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..418b784
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0168.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0169.png b/26311-page-images/p0169.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2f2a265
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0169.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0170.png b/26311-page-images/p0170.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3c05474
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0170.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0171.png b/26311-page-images/p0171.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eebd437
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0171.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0172.png b/26311-page-images/p0172.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d333398
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0172.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0173.png b/26311-page-images/p0173.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1c6ecad
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0173.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0174.png b/26311-page-images/p0174.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3a12038
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0174.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0175.png b/26311-page-images/p0175.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8816a12
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0175.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0176.png b/26311-page-images/p0176.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a929cf1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0176.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0177.png b/26311-page-images/p0177.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d33d645
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0177.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0178.png b/26311-page-images/p0178.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8c85e75
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0178.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0179.png b/26311-page-images/p0179.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..681c4d7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0179.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0180.png b/26311-page-images/p0180.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6d6ad53
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0180.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0181.png b/26311-page-images/p0181.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..52c94e9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0181.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0182.png b/26311-page-images/p0182.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8ad5da8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0182.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0183.png b/26311-page-images/p0183.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..953b813
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0183.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0184.png b/26311-page-images/p0184.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1b26568
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0184.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0185.png b/26311-page-images/p0185.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..291aaea
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0185.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0186.png b/26311-page-images/p0186.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2dfe384
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0186.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0187.png b/26311-page-images/p0187.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4e50531
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0187.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0188.png b/26311-page-images/p0188.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1a1e669
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0188.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0189.png b/26311-page-images/p0189.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9b59c2f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0189.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0190.png b/26311-page-images/p0190.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5aa1e0c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0190.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0191.png b/26311-page-images/p0191.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b135ddc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0191.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0192.png b/26311-page-images/p0192.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1aed40f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0192.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0193.png b/26311-page-images/p0193.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..be1af1d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0193.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0194.png b/26311-page-images/p0194.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e50b715
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0194.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0195.png b/26311-page-images/p0195.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..961e7a0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0195.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0196.png b/26311-page-images/p0196.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8dbbe8b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0196.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0197.png b/26311-page-images/p0197.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fcfee60
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0197.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0198.png b/26311-page-images/p0198.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e409846
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0198.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0199.png b/26311-page-images/p0199.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fe63f1b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0199.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0200.png b/26311-page-images/p0200.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dabb51e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0200.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0201.png b/26311-page-images/p0201.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..258b1d4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0201.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0202.png b/26311-page-images/p0202.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5ea5e04
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0202.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0203.png b/26311-page-images/p0203.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3225ad9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0203.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0204.png b/26311-page-images/p0204.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3bd7372
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0204.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0205.png b/26311-page-images/p0205.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..63ca74b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0205.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0206.png b/26311-page-images/p0206.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e23adfd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0206.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0207.png b/26311-page-images/p0207.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..603e86b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0207.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0208.png b/26311-page-images/p0208.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7b9f4d8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0208.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0209.png b/26311-page-images/p0209.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3850321
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0209.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0210.png b/26311-page-images/p0210.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4091f42
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0210.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0211.png b/26311-page-images/p0211.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9136122
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0211.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0212.png b/26311-page-images/p0212.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9782983
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0212.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0213.png b/26311-page-images/p0213.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9dd6d6d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0213.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0214.png b/26311-page-images/p0214.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c9e4c38
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0214.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0215.png b/26311-page-images/p0215.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d0e0403
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0215.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0216.png b/26311-page-images/p0216.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3c12270
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0216.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0217.png b/26311-page-images/p0217.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cfc6c7c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0217.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0218.png b/26311-page-images/p0218.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..71cbe14
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0218.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0219.png b/26311-page-images/p0219.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..59682d1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0219.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0220.png b/26311-page-images/p0220.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2567bc6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0220.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0221.png b/26311-page-images/p0221.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7a25d24
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0221.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0222.png b/26311-page-images/p0222.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..809a909
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0222.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0223.png b/26311-page-images/p0223.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9d11e62
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0223.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0224.png b/26311-page-images/p0224.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1413f71
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0224.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0225.png b/26311-page-images/p0225.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e1c51a5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0225.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0226.png b/26311-page-images/p0226.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..27c0bc8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0226.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0227.png b/26311-page-images/p0227.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cb905f2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0227.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0228.png b/26311-page-images/p0228.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0ba70e0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0228.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0229.png b/26311-page-images/p0229.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0319ce0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0229.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0230.png b/26311-page-images/p0230.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5f121fe
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0230.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0231.png b/26311-page-images/p0231.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2d423ca
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0231.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0232.png b/26311-page-images/p0232.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8da06e1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0232.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0233.png b/26311-page-images/p0233.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..56e36e0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0233.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0234.png b/26311-page-images/p0234.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..19d7baa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0234.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0235.png b/26311-page-images/p0235.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..da7a90f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0235.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0236.png b/26311-page-images/p0236.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..af666e3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0236.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0237.png b/26311-page-images/p0237.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5ed9df4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0237.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0238.png b/26311-page-images/p0238.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c9eb506
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0238.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0239.png b/26311-page-images/p0239.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4f51b91
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0239.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0240.png b/26311-page-images/p0240.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dd45ec4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0240.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0241.png b/26311-page-images/p0241.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ba53b91
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0241.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0242.png b/26311-page-images/p0242.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..666e600
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0242.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0243.png b/26311-page-images/p0243.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f8d1c01
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0243.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0244.png b/26311-page-images/p0244.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7581a66
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0244.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0245.png b/26311-page-images/p0245.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cb203d1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0245.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0246.png b/26311-page-images/p0246.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4258c6e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0246.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0247.png b/26311-page-images/p0247.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..63a6a47
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0247.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0248.png b/26311-page-images/p0248.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..011d21a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0248.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0249.png b/26311-page-images/p0249.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4ba8c6c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0249.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0250.png b/26311-page-images/p0250.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d859191
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0250.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0251.png b/26311-page-images/p0251.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4cd8713
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0251.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0252.png b/26311-page-images/p0252.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bc43b5c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0252.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0253.png b/26311-page-images/p0253.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6efd164
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0253.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0254.png b/26311-page-images/p0254.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0b954b9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0254.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0255.png b/26311-page-images/p0255.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9a85ffd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0255.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0256.png b/26311-page-images/p0256.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e4345ce
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0256.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0257.png b/26311-page-images/p0257.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fec0e95
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0257.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0258.png b/26311-page-images/p0258.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5429136
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0258.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0259.png b/26311-page-images/p0259.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..56490f2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0259.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0260.png b/26311-page-images/p0260.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8c55235
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0260.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0261.png b/26311-page-images/p0261.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..75908ff
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0261.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0262.png b/26311-page-images/p0262.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c7ff88d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0262.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0263.png b/26311-page-images/p0263.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0ec0d43
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0263.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0264.png b/26311-page-images/p0264.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..75c21d0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0264.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0265.png b/26311-page-images/p0265.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c79e746
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0265.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0266.png b/26311-page-images/p0266.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..28e1b62
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0266.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0267.png b/26311-page-images/p0267.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b8bd21f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0267.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0268.png b/26311-page-images/p0268.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..839ae51
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0268.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0269.png b/26311-page-images/p0269.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..aae8313
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0269.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0270.png b/26311-page-images/p0270.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..23263b2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0270.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0271.png b/26311-page-images/p0271.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..41377da
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0271.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0272.png b/26311-page-images/p0272.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6d4728b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0272.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0273.png b/26311-page-images/p0273.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eba8bbc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0273.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0274.png b/26311-page-images/p0274.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7bec997
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0274.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0275.png b/26311-page-images/p0275.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3772f2d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0275.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0276.png b/26311-page-images/p0276.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5ec1807
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0276.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0277.png b/26311-page-images/p0277.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..be4ebae
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0277.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0278.png b/26311-page-images/p0278.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7c91ed9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0278.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0279.png b/26311-page-images/p0279.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..18b9da2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0279.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0280.png b/26311-page-images/p0280.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..169e230
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0280.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0281.png b/26311-page-images/p0281.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c5b75be
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0281.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0282.png b/26311-page-images/p0282.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d8b9990
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0282.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0283.png b/26311-page-images/p0283.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2c3f5a3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0283.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0284.png b/26311-page-images/p0284.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bab6ed6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0284.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0285.png b/26311-page-images/p0285.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c73292b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0285.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0286.png b/26311-page-images/p0286.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..939d9b9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0286.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0287.png b/26311-page-images/p0287.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f98b79d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0287.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0288.png b/26311-page-images/p0288.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..844e08b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0288.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0289.png b/26311-page-images/p0289.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..df183e7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0289.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0290.png b/26311-page-images/p0290.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..da6d50a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0290.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0291.png b/26311-page-images/p0291.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6c8da9a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0291.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0292.png b/26311-page-images/p0292.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a537ec4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0292.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0293.png b/26311-page-images/p0293.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..629135e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0293.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0294.png b/26311-page-images/p0294.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..05f44d3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0294.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0295.png b/26311-page-images/p0295.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7039c23
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0295.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0296.png b/26311-page-images/p0296.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6ecda06
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0296.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0297.png b/26311-page-images/p0297.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..83eb0a5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0297.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0298.png b/26311-page-images/p0298.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..401ae31
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0298.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0299.png b/26311-page-images/p0299.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5066044
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0299.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0300.png b/26311-page-images/p0300.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d5b83b3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0300.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0301.png b/26311-page-images/p0301.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..768243a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0301.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0302.png b/26311-page-images/p0302.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7d7d75a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0302.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0303.png b/26311-page-images/p0303.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bc6e9ff
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0303.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0304.png b/26311-page-images/p0304.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bf0a001
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0304.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0305.png b/26311-page-images/p0305.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..732e0f3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0305.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0306.png b/26311-page-images/p0306.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6f6f82c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0306.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0307.png b/26311-page-images/p0307.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..18b3618
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0307.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0308.png b/26311-page-images/p0308.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b50bd2e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0308.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0309.png b/26311-page-images/p0309.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..17c64b1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0309.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0310.png b/26311-page-images/p0310.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8fe6413
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0310.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0311.png b/26311-page-images/p0311.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..222893c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0311.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0312.png b/26311-page-images/p0312.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..026f307
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0312.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0313.png b/26311-page-images/p0313.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f0b2f63
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0313.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0314.png b/26311-page-images/p0314.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3faf97f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0314.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0315.png b/26311-page-images/p0315.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0b899fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0315.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/p0316.png b/26311-page-images/p0316.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bc17c4c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/p0316.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/q0001.png b/26311-page-images/q0001.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..635925e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/q0001.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/q0002.png b/26311-page-images/q0002.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0f6370a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/q0002.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/q0003.png b/26311-page-images/q0003.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7af2d3b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/q0003.png
diff --git a/26311-page-images/q0004.png b/26311-page-images/q0004.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1bb97ca
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311-page-images/q0004.png
diff --git a/26311.txt b/26311.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c77d8e5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,6398 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Choice Cookery, by Catherine Owen
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Choice Cookery
+
+Author: Catherine Owen
+
+Release Date: August 14, 2008 [EBook #26311]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHOICE COOKERY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of changes is
+found at the end of the text. Inconsistency in spelling and hyphenation
+has been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled words is found at
+the end of the text. Oe ligatures have been expanded.
+
+The following codes have been used for characters that cannot be
+displayed in the character set used for this e-book.
+
+[+]  Dagger
+-->  Right pointing hand
+
+
+
+
+
+                   CHOICE COOKERY
+
+
+
+                         BY
+
+                   CATHERINE OWEN
+                      AUTHOR OF
+  "TEN DOLLARS ENOUGH" "GENTLE BREAD-WINNERS" ETC.
+
+
+
+                      NEW YORK
+         HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE
+                        1889
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1889, by HARPER & BROTHERS.
+
+_All rights reserved._
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Choice cookery is not intended for households that have to study
+economy, except where economy is a relative term; where, perhaps, the
+housekeeper could easily spend a dollar for the materials of a luxury,
+but could not spare the four or five dollars a caterer would charge.
+
+Many families enjoy giving little dinners, or otherwise exercising
+hospitality, but are debarred from doing so by the fact that anything
+beyond the ordinary daily fare has to be ordered in, or an expensive
+extra cook engaged. And although we may regret that hospitality should
+ever be dependent on fine cooking, we have to take things as they are.
+It is not every hostess who loves simplicity that dares to practise it.
+
+It was to help the women who wish to know at a glance what is newest and
+best in modern cookery that these chapters were written for _Harper's
+Bazar_, and are now gathered into a book. It is hoped by the writer that
+the copious details and simplification of different matters will enable
+those who have already achieved success in the plainer branches of
+cookery to venture further, and realize for themselves that it is only
+the "first step that costs."
+
+I have to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mrs. Clarke, of the South
+Kensington School of Cookery, to Madame de Salis, and those epicurean
+friends who have cast their nets in foreign waters, and sent me the
+daintiest fish they caught.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+  CHAPTER               PAGE
+
+       I. INTRODUCTION                                               1
+      II. SAUCES                                                    11
+     III. WHITE SAUCES                                              23
+      IV. BROWN SAUCES                                              33
+       V. COLD SAUCES                                               42
+      VI. SOUPS                                                     51
+     VII. FISH ENTREES                                              61
+    VIII. VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING OYSTERS                           71
+      IX. VARIOUS CULINARY MATTERS                                  79
+       X. ENTREES                                                   86
+      XI. ENTREES OF MUTTON CUTLETS OR CHOPS                        98
+     XII. ON THE MANNER OF PREPARING CROQUETTES, CUTLETS,
+          KROMESKIES, RISSOLES, AND CIGARETTES                     107
+    XIII. PATTIES                                                  116
+     XIV. ENTREES                                                  125
+      XV. ENTREES--_continued_                                     134
+     XVI. ENTREES--_continued_                                     143
+    XVII. COLD ENTREES, OR CHAUDFROIDS                             153
+   XVIII. COLD ENTREES                                             162
+     XIX. GALANTINES, BALLOTINES, ETC.                             172
+      XX. HOW TO "FILLET."--COLD GAME PIES                         181
+     XXI. GARNISHES                                                191
+    XXII. VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING VEGETABLES                       199
+   XXIII. JELLIES                                                  208
+    XXIV. JELLIES--_continued_                                     217
+     XXV. COLD SWEETS.--CREAMS                                     226
+    XXVI. CREAMS AND FROZEN PUDDINGS                               235
+   XXVII. ICED PUDDINGS                                            243
+  XXVIII. ICE-CREAMS AND WATER-ICES                                252
+    XXIX. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS                                     262
+     XXX. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS--_continued_                        271
+    XXXI. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS--_continued_                        281
+   XXXII. FINE CAKES AND SAUCES                                    291
+  XXXIII. SALADS AND CHEESE DISHES                                 300
+  INDEX                                                            309
+
+
+
+
+CHOICE COOKERY.
+
+
+I.
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+By choice cookery is meant exactly what the words imply. There will be
+no attempt to teach family or inexpensive cooking, those branches of
+domestic economy having been so excellently treated by capable hands
+already. It may be said _en passant_, however, that even choice cooking
+is not necessarily expensive. Many dishes cost little for the materials,
+but owe their daintiness and expensiveness to the care bestowed in
+cooking or to a fine sauce. For instance: cod, one of the cheapest of
+fish, and considered coarse food as usually served, becomes an
+epicurean dish when served with a fine Hollandaise or oyster sauce, and
+it will not even then be more expensive than any average-priced boiling
+fish. Flounder served as _sole Normande_ conjures up memories of the
+famous Philippe, whose fortune it made, or it may be of luxurious little
+dinners at other famous restaurants, and is suggestive, in fact, of
+anything but economy. Yet it is really an inexpensive dish.
+
+But while it is quite true that fine cooking does not always mean
+expensive cooking, it is also true that it requires the best materials
+and sufficient of them; that if satisfactory results are to be obtained
+there must be no attempt to stint or change proportions from a false
+idea of economy, although it must never be forgotten that all good
+cooking is economical, by which I mean that there is no waste, every
+cent's worth of material being made to do its full duty.
+
+In this book the object will be to give the newest and most _recherche_
+dishes, and these will naturally be expensive. Yet for those families
+who depend upon the caterer for everything in the way of fine soups,
+_entrees_, or sauces, because the cook can achieve only the plain part
+of the dinner, it will be found a great economy as well as convenience
+to be independent of this outside resource, which is always very costly,
+and invariably destroys the individuality of a repast. Many new recipes
+will be given, and others little known in private kitchens, or thought
+to be quite beyond the attainment of any but an accomplished _chef_. But
+if strict attention be paid to small matters, and the directions
+faithfully carried out, there will be no difficulty in a lady becoming
+her own _chef_.
+
+I propose to begin with sauces. This is reversing the usual mode, and
+yet I think the reader will not regret the innovation. The cooking to be
+taught in these pages, being emphatically what is popularly known as
+"Delmonico cooking," very much depends on the excellence of the sauces
+served with each dish; and as it is no time to learn to make a fine
+sauce when the dish it is served with is being cooked, I think the
+better plan is to give the sauces first. They will be frequently
+referred to, but no repetition of the recipes will be given.
+
+Before proceeding further I will say a few words that may save time and
+patience hereafter. Of course it is not expected that any one will hope
+to succeed with elaborate dishes without understanding the principles of
+simple cooking, but many do this without perceiving that in that
+knowledge they hold the key to very much more, and I would ask readers
+who are in earnest about the matter to acquire the habit of putting two
+and two together in cooking as they would in fancy-work. If you know
+half a dozen embroidery or lace stitches, you see at once that you can
+produce the elaborate combinations in which those stitches are used. So
+it is with cooking. The most elaborate dish will only be a combination
+of two or three simpler processes of cooking, _perfectly_ done--that is
+a _sine qua non_--something fried, roasted, boiled, or braised to
+perfection, and a sauce that no _chef_ could improve upon; but to
+recognize that this is so--that when you can make a Chateaubriand sauce
+or a Bearnaise perfectly, and can _saute_ a steak, the famed filets a la
+Chateaubriand or a la Bearnaise are no longer a mystery, or that one who
+can make clear meat jelly and roast a chicken has learned all but the
+arrangement of a _chaudfroid_ in aspic--will make apparently complicated
+dishes simple.
+
+I go into these matters because I hope to cause my readers to _think_
+about the recipes they will use, when they will see for themselves that
+even the finest cooking is not intricate nor in any way difficult. It
+requires intelligence and great care about details: no half-attention
+will do, any more than it will in any other thing we attempt, whether it
+be high art or domestic art.
+
+In making sauces or reading recipes for them it simplifies matters to
+remember that in savory sauces--by which I mean those served with meats
+or fish--there are what the French call the two "mother sauces," white
+sauce and brown; all others, with few exceptions, are modifications of
+these two; that is to say, bechamel is only white sauce made with white
+stock and cream instead of milk; Allemande is the same, only yolks of
+eggs replace the cream; and so on through the long list of sauces
+belonging to the blond variety. The simple brown sauce becomes the
+famous Chateaubriand by the addition of glaze (or very strong gravy) and
+a glass of white wine, and is the "mother" of many others equally fine.
+This being so, it will be seen that it is of the first importance that
+the making of these two "mother sauces" should be thoroughly understood,
+in order for the finer ones based on them to be successfully
+accomplished.
+
+It will clear the way for easy work if I here give the directions for
+making one of the most necessary and convenient aids to fine
+cooking--the above-named glaze. To have it in the house saves much worry
+and work. If the soup is not just so strong as we wish, the addition of
+a small piece of glaze will make it excellent; or we wish to make brown
+sauce, and have no stock, the glaze comes to our aid. To have stock in
+the house at all times is by no means easy in a small family, especially
+in summer; with glaze, which is solidified stock, one is independent of
+it.
+
+Six pounds of lean beef from the leg, or a knuckle of veal and beef to
+make six pounds. Cut this in pieces two inches square or less; do the
+same with half a pound of lean ham, free from rind or smoky outside, and
+which has been scalded five minutes. Put the meat into a two-gallon pot
+with three medium-sized onions with two cloves in each, a turnip, a
+carrot, and a _small_ head of celery. Pour over them five quarts of cold
+water; let it come slowly to the boiling-point, when skim, and draw to
+a spot where it will gently simmer for six hours. This stock as it is
+will be an excellent foundation for all kinds of clear soups or gravies,
+with the addition of salt, which must on no account be added for glaze.
+
+To reduce this stock to glaze, do as follows: Strain the stock first
+through a colander, and return meat and vegetables to the pot; put to
+them four quarts of _hot_ water, and let it boil four hours longer. The
+importance of this second boiling, which may at first sight appear
+useless economy, will be seen if you let the two stocks get cold; the
+first will be of delightful flavor, but probably quite liquid; the last
+will be flavorless, but if the boiling process has been slow enough it
+will be a jelly, the second boiling having been necessary to extract the
+gelatine from the bones, which is indispensable for the formation of
+glaze.
+
+Strain both these stocks through a scalded cloth. (If they have been
+allowed to get cool, heat them in order to strain.) Put both stocks
+together into one large pot, and let it boil as fast as possible with
+the cover off, leaving a large spoon in it to prevent it boiling over,
+also to stir occasionally; when it is reduced to three pints put it into
+a small saucepan, and let it boil more slowly. Stir frequently with a
+wooden spoon until it begins to thicken and has a fine yellowish-brown
+color, which will be when it is reduced to a quart or rather less. At
+this point watch closely, as it quickly burns. When there is only a pint
+and a half it will be fit to pour into small cups or jars, or it may be
+dried in thin sheets, if required for soup in travelling; to do this,
+pour it into oiled tin pans an inch deep. When cold it can be cut out in
+two-inch squares and dried by exposure to the air till it is like glue.
+One square makes a cup of strong soup if dissolved in boiling water and
+seasoned. If, however, it is put into pots, it must _not be covered_
+until all moisture has evaporated and the glaze shrinks from the sides
+of the jar. This may take a month.
+
+The most convenient of all ways for preserving glaze is to get from your
+butcher a yard of sausage-skin. Tie one end very tightly, then pour in
+the glaze while warm by means of a large funnel. Tie the skin just as
+you would sausage as close to the glaze as possible, cut off any
+remaining skin, and hang the one containing the glaze up to dry. When
+needed, a slice is cut from this.
+
+Of course any strong meat and bone-soup can be boiled down in the same
+way, and where there is meat on hand in danger of spoiling from sudden
+change of weather it can be turned into glaze, and kept indefinitely. I
+have found glaze five years old as good as the first week.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+SAUCES.
+
+
+In addition to the glaze, for which the recipe is given in the preceding
+pages, and which will make you independent of the stock pot, there are
+several other articles involving very small outlay which it is
+absolutely necessary to have at hand in order to follow directions
+without trouble and worry.
+
+It is often said by thoughtless housekeepers that cooking-books are of
+little use, because the recipes always call for something that is not in
+the house. This is a habit of mind only, for the very women who say it
+keep their work-baskets supplied with everything necessary for work, not
+only the everyday white and black spools, nor would they hesitate to
+undertake a piece of embroidery which required quite unusual
+combinations of color or material, and to be obtained only with
+difficulty. Grant a little of this earnest painstaking to the
+requirements of the cooking-book at the start, see that the herb-bottles
+are supplied with dried herbs (when fresh are not attainable), the
+spice-boxes contain the small quantity of fresh fine spices that is
+sufficient for a good deal of cooking, and red and white wine and brandy
+are in the house, all of which should be kept in the store-closet for
+cooking alone, and not liable to be "out" when wanted.
+
+The so-called "French herbs" are rarely found in American gardens, yet
+might be very readily sown in early spring, as parsley is; but although
+seldom home-grown, they are to be found at the French market-gardener's
+in Washington Market, and can be bought fresh and dried in paper bags
+quickly for use. I say dried quickly, because unless the sun is very hot
+much of the aroma will pass into the air; it is, therefore, better to
+dry them in a cool oven. When they are dry enough to crumble to dust,
+free the herbs from stems and twigs, and put them separately into tin
+boxes or wide-mouthed bottles, each labelled. The expense of herbs and
+spices is very slight, and they are certainly not neglected among
+kitchen stores on that account; it is merely the want of habit in
+ordering them. In addition to these articles a bottle of capers, one of
+olives, one of anchovies, canned mushrooms, and canned truffles should
+be on hand--the latter should be bought in the smallest-sized cans, as
+they are very costly, but a little goes a long way. Families living in
+the country often have for a season more mushrooms than they can use. In
+the few days in which they are plentiful opportunity should be taken to
+peel and dry as many as possible; when powdered they give a finer flavor
+than the canned mushroom, and may be used to great advantage in dark
+sauces.
+
+The French _chef_ classes all white sauces as _blonde_, and calls the
+jar of very smooth thick white sauce, which he keeps ready made as a
+foundation for most of the family of light sauces, his _blonde_ or
+_veloute_. This explanation is given because directions are often found
+in French recipes to "take half a pint of veloute" or of "blonde." The
+mistress of a private house may not find it wise or necessary to keep a
+supply of sauce ready made, although to one who has to supply a variety
+of sauces each day it is indispensable; but the day before a
+dinner-party sauces can be so made, and covered with a film of butter to
+prevent skin forming, and can then be heated in a bain-marie when
+required for use. Almost every _chef_ has his favorite recipe for
+veloute, or white sauce, but they differ only in points that are little
+essential; the foundation is always the same, as follows: Put two ounces
+of butter in a thick saucepan with two ounces of flour (tablespoonfuls
+approximate the ounce, but weight only should be relied on for fine
+cooking). Let these melt over the fire, stirring them so that the
+butter and flour become well mixed; then let them bubble together,
+stirring enough to prevent the flour sticking or changing color. Three
+minutes will suffice to cook the flour; add a pint of clear hot white
+stock that has been strained through a cloth. This stock must not be
+poured slowly, or the sauce will thicken too fast. Hold the pint-measure
+or other vessel in which the stock may be in the left hand, stir the
+butter and flour quickly with the right, then turn the broth to it _all
+at once_. Let this simmer an hour until very thick, then add a gill of
+very rich cream, stir, and the sauce is ready.
+
+This is undoubtedly the best way to make white sauce, which is to serve
+as a foundation for others, or is intended to mask meat or poultry, the
+long, slow simmering producing an extreme blandness not to be attained
+by a quicker method. But circumstances sometimes prevent the previous
+preparation of the sauce, in which case it may be made exactly in the
+same way, only instead of a pint of broth, but three gills should be
+poured on the butter and flour, and a gill of thick cream stirred in
+when it boils; the sauce is finished when it again reaches the
+boiling-point.
+
+This is the foundation for the following "grand" sauces: Poulette,
+Allemande, Uxelles, Soubise, Ste. Menehould, Perigueux, Supreme, besides
+all the simpler ones, which take their name from the chief ingredient,
+such as caper, cauliflower, celery, lobster, etc., etc.
+
+For sauces that have vinegar or lemon juice, it is better that the
+veloute, or white sauce, should have no cream until the last minute, or
+it may curdle. My object in giving the recipes for sauces in the way I
+intend--that is to say, by building on to, or omitting from, one
+foundation sauce--is to dispel some of the confusion which exists in the
+minds of many people about the exact difference between several sauces
+differing from each other very slightly--a confusion which is only
+added to by reading over the fully written recipes for each, as many a
+painstaking, intelligent woman's headache will testify. As we progress,
+the exact difference between each will be explained.
+
+_Bechamel._--This sauce differs from the white sauce only in the fact
+that the white stock used for the latter need not be very strong; for
+bechamel it should either be very strong or boiled down rapidly to make
+it so, and there should always be half cream instead of one third, as in
+white sauce, and when required for fish the stock may be of fish. White
+sauce is frequently (perhaps most frequently) made with milk, or milk
+and cream, in place of stock, in this country, and answers admirably for
+many purposes, but would not be what is required for the kind of cooking
+intended in these pages.
+
+Most readers know how "to stir," and it may seem quite an unnecessary
+matter to go into. Yet if only one reader does not know that to stir
+means a regular, even, slow circling of the spoon, _not only in the
+centre_ of the saucepan, but round the sides, she will fail in making
+good sauce. Stir, then, slowly, gently, going over every part of the
+bottom of the saucepan till the sides are reached, pass the spoon gently
+round them, thence back to the middle, and so on. In this way the sauce
+gets no chance to stick to any particular spot. A small copper saucepan
+is the best possible utensil for making sauce, as it does not burn.
+
+The rule for seasoning is a level salt-spoonful of salt to half a pint;
+pepper, one fourth the quantity. This, however, is only when the stock
+is unseasoned; if seasoned, only salt enough must be added to season the
+cream and eggs.
+
+_Allemande._--Take half a pint of white sauce, add to it half the liquor
+from a can of mushrooms, and half a dozen of the mushrooms chopped fine.
+Let them simmer--stirring all the time--five minutes, then remove from
+the fire. Set the saucepan into another containing boiling water. Have
+the yolks of three eggs ready beaten, put a little of the sauce to them,
+beat together, then add the eggs gradually to the rest of the sauce,
+which must be returned to the fire, and stirred until the eggs _begin_
+to thicken; then it must be quickly removed, and stirred until slightly
+cool. Season with a saltspoonful of salt, a fourth of one of pepper, and
+strain carefully.
+
+It must never be forgotten that in thickening with eggs the sauce or
+soup must _not boil_ after they are added, or they will curdle. Yet if
+they do not reach the boiling-point they will not thicken. Only keen
+attention to the first sign of thickening will insure success. If a
+failure is made the first time, look upon it as the first step to
+success, for you have learned what the danger _looks like_. Make the
+sauce again as soon as possible, so that your eye may not lose the
+impression. It is worth considerable effort (and it is really only a
+matter of a few minutes each time) to make Allemande sauce well, for in
+doing so you also learn to make Hollandaise and several choice sauces,
+as will be seen by those that follow.
+
+_Poulette Sauce._--Make Allemande sauce as directed in the foregoing
+recipe; add a wineglass of white wine. If sweetbreads or chicken are to
+be cooked in the sauce, as is not unusual, of course the eggs must be
+left out until the last thing. Anything served with this sauce is called
+_a la poulette_.
+
+_Sauce a la d'Uxelles._--Chop fine a dozen _small_ button mushrooms, or
+half a dozen large ones; parsley and chives, of each enough to make a
+teaspoonful when finely chopped; of lean ham a tablespoonful, and one
+small shallot. Fry gently in a tablespoonful of butter, but do not let
+them brown. Stir these into half a pint of white sauce, simmer three or
+four minutes, then add two yolks of eggs, as for Allemande, and the last
+thing a half-teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and just enough glaze to make
+the sauce the shade of a pale Suede glove. This sauce is used cold to
+coat meats that have to be cooked in paper, and many that are afterwards
+to be fried in bread-crumbs, for which directions will be given in the
+_entrees_. Dishes termed _a la d'Uxelles_ are among the most _recherche_
+productions of the French kitchen.
+
+_Villeroi Sauce._--Make half a pint of white sauce, which, as in the
+case of bechamel, may be made of fish stock when for use with fish; chop
+half a dozen mushrooms, and add a gill of the liquor to the sauce, half
+a saltspoonful of powdered thyme (or one sprig, if fresh), two sprigs of
+parsley, and half a bay-leaf; simmer for fifteen minutes; strain through
+a scalded cloth; replace on the fire; add a piece of glaze as large as a
+hazel-nut, or a tablespoonful of strong meat-gravy, just enough to give
+it the shade of _palest_ cafe au lait; thicken with two yolks of eggs,
+as for Allemande sauce. All articles served with this sauce are termed
+_a la Villeroi_. It differs from d'Uxelles only in having no ham, nor
+acidity from the lemon; also, all flavor of onion is omitted.
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+WHITE SAUCES.
+
+
+Supreme sauce gives its name to several dishes dear to epicures--supreme
+de volaille, supreme de Toulouse, etc. It is made with a pint of thick
+white sauce, a pint of very strong chicken broth, four stalks of
+parsley, and six white pepper-corns, boiled down to half a pint. Stir
+sauce and broth together until thoroughly blended, then boil rapidly
+down till thick again, taking great care it does not burn. Add one gill
+of double cream, and half a saltspoonful of salt (if the stock was
+already seasoned). Boil up till thick enough _to mask the back of a
+spoon_, strain, and the last thing add a small teaspoonful of lemon
+juice.
+
+When the white sauce has to be made expressly for the supreme, it is
+easier to use strong chicken broth in place of ordinary white stock;
+then it is not necessary to add it after. The term "to mask the back of
+a spoon" is a common one to indicate the proper thickness for sauces,
+but to the untrained eye it may not be easy to decide just what
+"masking" means. Most sauces should be thin enough to run quite freely
+from the spoon, yet not so thin as to leave the color of the spoon
+visible through the coating of sauce it will retain if it be dipped into
+it; there should be a thin _opaque_ coating or "mask" to the back of the
+spoon. Sauce of this thickness is produced by using one ounce (exact
+weight) of flour of fine quality to half a pint of liquid. Meat, fish,
+or vegetables over which sauce of this consistency has been poured will
+be quite masked, but the sauce will not be too thick to serve readily
+with a spoon. This consistency is worth some practice to attain, for it
+is the perfection of sauce-making.
+
+White sauce, when intended for the foundation of others, it must be
+observed, is made twice as thick, to allow for the addition of cream,
+wine, or stock. The only advantage in a private family of making it thus
+thick is when, perhaps, two or three sauces are needed for a dinner; for
+example, a plain white sauce for a vegetable, caper, lobster, or
+cardinal for other purposes, and perhaps poulette, d'Uxelles, or other
+pale sauce for an entree; but when one sauce only is required, it is
+best to make that one from the beginning; that is to say, make white
+sauce with the additions that form it into Allemande, supreme, or
+whatever you require.
+
+_Ste. Menehould Sauce_ is in these days chiefly associated with "pigs'
+feet a la Ste. Menehould," but is good for several purposes. It is
+simply half a pint of white sauce into which a dozen bruised mushrooms,
+a gill of the mushroom liquor, a large teaspoonful of finely chopped
+chives, with the sixth of a saltspoonful of pepper and one of salt are
+allowed to simmer until the sauce is the same thickness as before the
+addition of the mushroom liquor; that is to say, thick enough to mask
+the spoon. Strain, return to the saucepan, and add a teaspoonful of
+finely chopped sage leaves, if for pigs' feet, or parsley for other
+purposes; boil once, add half a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and the
+sauce is ready.
+
+_Bearnaise Sauce._--This is one of the most difficult sauces to make, on
+account of the danger of the eggs curdling; but by the following method
+the work is rendered more sure than by the usual plan. It has been said
+that the terrors of a cook are Bearnaise sauce and omelette soufflee,
+but neither is really difficult; great care only is necessary for
+success with each.
+
+Chop four shallots fine, put them into a saucepan with half a gill of
+Tarragon vinegar and half a gill of plain vinegar; boil till reduced to
+one tablespoonful; then add one gill of white sauce, mixing well. Stand
+the saucepan in another of boiling water; then add, one at a time, three
+yolks of eggs, beating each, one well in before adding another, _and on
+no account let the sauce boil_. Remove the saucepan from the fire when
+the eggs are all in and show signs of thickening. Have ready three
+ounces of butter cut into small pieces; drop one in at a time, and with
+an egg-whisk beat the sauce till the butter is blended; then add another
+piece, and so on, till all the butter is used. If added too quickly the
+butter will oil, therefore great care must be taken to see one piece
+entirely blend before adding another. The butter will probably salt the
+sauce enough, but if not, add a very little salt. This sauce should have
+the appearance of a Welsh-rabbit when ready to spread; in other words,
+it should be very thick, smooth, and dark yellow.
+
+_Soubise._--This sauce, which transforms ordinary mutton-chops into
+"cotelettes a la Soubise," is very easily made. Boil half a dozen
+Bermuda onions (medium size) in milk till quite tender; press out all
+the milk; chop them as fine as possible; sprinkle a quarter of a
+saltspoonful of white pepper and one of salt over them; then stir them
+with a tablespoonful of butter into half a pint of white sauce. If the
+onions should thin the sauce too much (they are sometimes very watery),
+thicken with a yolk of egg, or blend a teaspoonful of flour with the
+butter before stirring it in. Boil the sauce three minutes. Needless to
+say, if the yolk of egg is added, it must be beaten in after the sauce
+is removed from the stove, and only allowed to thicken, not boil.
+
+The sauces so far given are what French cooks call "grand sauces." They
+are the most important part of the dish with which they are served, and,
+as we have seen, give the name to it. There are numberless other sauces
+of which the white sauce is parent that are, however, not indispensable
+to the dish they are served with--by which I mean a boiled fish may be
+served with oyster sauce or Dutch sauce, the sauce being in this case
+simply the adjunct.
+
+A dessertspoonful of capers put into half a pint of white sauce, with a
+teaspoonful of the vinegar, makes caper sauce.
+
+Celery sauce is, again, white sauce with the pulp of boiled celery. Boil
+the white part of four heads of celery (sliced thin) in milk till it
+will mash; this will take an hour, perhaps more; then rub the pulp
+through a coarse sieve, and stir it into half a pint of white sauce made
+with half rich cream.
+
+Oyster sauce is white sauce made by using the oyster liquor instead of
+stock. The oysters should be bearded, just allowed to plump in the
+liquor, which must then be strained for the sauce, using a gill of it
+with a gill of thick cream to make half a pint; for this quantity a
+dozen and a half of small oysters will be required.
+
+Shrimp sauce, parsley sauce, lobster sauce, cucumber sauce, and all the
+family are white sauce with the addition of the ingredient naming it.
+Cucumber sauce, which is approved for fish, is made by grating a
+cucumber, and adding it, with the water from it, to some white sauce;
+boil till well flavored, and then strain. If too thin, boil till thick,
+stirring carefully.
+
+For shrimp sauce canned shrimps serve very well indeed; they must be
+thrown for a minute into cold water, well stirred in it to remove
+superfluous salt, then drained, and dried on a cloth. Put a gill of
+shrimps to half a pint of bechamel made with fish stock, boil once, and
+stir in just enough essence of anchovy to make the sauce a pale shrimp
+pink.
+
+Cardinal sauce is a handsome sauce for boiled fish. It is made by drying
+the coral from a lobster, then pounding it quite smooth, with one ounce
+of butter, until it is a perfectly smooth paste. Stir this into half a
+pint of bechamel. It should be a fine red when mixed; pass through a
+sieve, and add as much cayenne as will go on the end of the blade of a
+small penknife.
+
+Hollandaise or Dutch sauce is best made in the following way. There are
+other methods, but this one meets general approval, is not difficult,
+and agrees with many who cannot possibly eat it when oil is used.
+
+Make half a pint of drawn butter by melting one ounce of butter with one
+ounce of flour over the fire; let them bubble together (stirring the
+while) for one minute; then stir in half a pint of boiling water and
+half a teaspoonful of salt. So far, the making is exactly the same as
+for white sauce, except that water is used instead of cream and stock.
+Boil once, then set the saucepan in another of water, and break up an
+ounce of butter into small pieces and add them; stir briskly after each
+piece is added, and see it blend before putting more. When all is in,
+add the beaten yolks of five eggs, removing the saucepan from the fire
+while doing it. They must be very carefully and gradually stirred in,
+and when well mixed returned to the fire until they _begin_ to thicken.
+The eggs must be kept from curdling. Squeeze in two teaspoonfuls of
+lemon juice, and add just a dust of cayenne. This should be a thick,
+yellow, custard-like sauce, and have a perceptible acidity without being
+sour.
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+BROWN SAUCES.
+
+
+It has been already stated that the family of brown sauces, like the
+white, have one parent, _Espagnole_, or Spanish sauce, which is the
+foundation for Chateaubriand, Financiere, Robert, Poivrade, Piquante,
+and other sauces. Ordinary brown sauce, like ordinary white, is often
+made without stock--simply an ounce of flour, one of butter, browned
+together, and half a pint of boiling water added, then boiled till thick
+and smooth. But it may be safely said that in high-class dark sauces
+water should play no part; its place must be taken by stock of good
+quality, which is often enriched by reducing or adding glaze.
+
+The characteristics of finely made Spanish sauce are a clear beautiful
+brown, by no means approaching black, absolute freedom from grease, and
+a fine high flavor, so well blended that no particular spice or herb can
+be detected. Spanish sauce is made as follows: Wash, peel, and cut small
+six mushrooms (or a dessertspoonful of mushroom powder), one small
+carrot, one small onion, and one shallot; dry them, and fry them a fine
+brown in a tablespoonful of butter, but do not let them burn; drain off
+the butter. Melt in a copper saucepan two ounces of butter and two
+ounces of flour, stir them together over the fire till of a pale bright
+brown, then add a pint of stock, the fried vegetables, and a gill of
+tomato sauce; let all gently simmer for half an hour with the cover off.
+Strain through a fine sieve. When Spanish sauce is to be served without
+any addition, and not as a foundation, a wineglass of sherry is used and
+the same quantity of stock omitted.
+
+It becomes Chateaubriand by the addition of a wineglass of sherry
+reduced to half a glass by boiling in a tiny saucepan, a
+dessertspoonful of fresh parsley very finely chopped, and the juice of
+half a small lemon. These must be added to _one third_ the quantity of
+Espagnole, or Spanish sauce, given in the foregoing recipe. Then stir in
+gradually, bit by bit, one ounce of butter, letting each piece blend
+before adding more.
+
+I have said here and elsewhere, "the juice of half a small lemon." Yet I
+would caution the reader to squeeze it in gradually, because some lemons
+are intensely sour, and a very few drops of juice from such go farther
+than that of the whole half of an average lemon. Chateaubriand sauce is
+by no means acid; there must be only a just perceptible dash of acidity,
+and only so much lemon juice used as will give it zest. Piquante sauce
+is different; there should be acidity enough to provoke appetite; yet
+even this should be by no means sour.
+
+To make _Piquante sauce_, chop a shallot fine, put it, with a
+tablespoonful of vinegar, into a very small saucepan; let them stew
+together until the vinegar is _entirely absorbed_, but do not let it
+burn. Then add to it half a pint of Spanish sauce and a gill of stock,
+with a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme; cook very gently ten minutes,
+remove the thyme and bay-leaf, and add a dessertspoonful of chopped
+pickled cucumber, a teaspoonful of capers, and a dessertspoonful of
+_finely_ chopped parsley. Simmer very slowly ten minutes more; then add
+enough cayenne to lay on the tip of a penknife blade.
+
+_Poivrade_ resembles piquante sauce very closely, differing from it,
+however, by the addition of wine and higher flavoring. To make it, fry
+an onion and a small carrot cut fine, a tomato sliced, and an ounce of
+lean ham in two ounces of butter; let them brown slightly; then add to
+them half a pint of claret, a bouquet of herbs, two cloves, and six
+peppercorns; let them simmer till the wine is reduced one half; then add
+half a pint of good Spanish sauce, boil gently ten minutes, strain, and
+serve very hot. A true French poivrade has a _soupcon_ of garlic,
+obtained by rubbing a crust on a clove of it, and simmering it in the
+sauce before straining it; but although many would like the scarcely
+perceptible zest imparted by this cautious use of garlic, no one should
+try the experiment unless sure of her company.
+
+A "bouquet of herbs" always means two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme,
+one of marjoram, and a bay-leaf, so rolled together (the bay-leaf in the
+middle) and tied that there is no difficulty in removing it from any
+dish which is not to be strained.
+
+The well-known _Bordelaise sauce_ is simply Spanish sauce with the
+addition of white wine and shallots. Scald a tablespoonful of chopped
+shallots; put them to half a pint of Chablis, Sauterne, or any similar
+white wine; let the wine reduce to one gill; then mix with it half a
+pint of Spanish sauce and the sixth part of a saltspoonful of pepper.
+Strain and serve.
+
+_Robert sauce_, that excellent adjunct to beefsteak, varies again from
+Bordelaise, vinegar and mustard and fried onions taking the place of the
+wine and shallot. Chop three medium-sized onions quite fine; fry them in
+a tablespoonful of butter until they are a clear yellowish-brown,
+stirring them constantly as they fry; drain them, and put them to a
+half-pint of Spanish sauce, to which you add a wineglass of stock (to
+allow for boiling away); simmer gently twenty minutes; add a pinch of
+pepper; strain; then mix a teaspoonful of vinegar in a cup with a
+teaspoonful of mustard; stir this into the sauce.
+
+_Sauce a la Normande_ is one of the most delicious sauces for baked fish
+of any kind, although usually associated with sole. To half a pint of
+Spanish sauce add a dozen mushrooms sliced in half, a dozen small
+oysters with the beards removed, and a dozen crawfish, if they are to be
+had, or their place may be taken by a tablespoonful of shrimps picked
+(canned shrimps, washed and dried, answer very well), one tablespoonful
+of essence of anchovy, and just a dust of Cayenne pepper.
+
+Light _Normande_ is made by using bechamel instead of Spanish sauce,
+adding all the other materials; it is then a pale salmon-colored sauce,
+excellent for boiled fish.
+
+A favorite English sauce for fish, which is also brown or pink,
+according to whether it is intended for baked or boiled fish, is the
+_Downton sauce_. To three quarters of a pint of bechamel add a
+dessertspoonful of anchovy essence and a small wineglass of sherry, mix
+well, and serve.
+
+_Orange sauce_ for game is made with half a pint of Spanish sauce boiled
+five minutes to make it rather thicker than usual, the juice of three
+sweet oranges, and the peel of one. This peel must be so thinly pared as
+to be transparent. Boil this peel half an hour in water, then shred it
+into fine even strips half an inch long, and not thicker than broom
+straw. Stew this shredded peel another half-hour in a gill of stock,
+with a scant teaspoonful of sugar; then add it to the sauce, with half
+a saltspoonful of salt, and boil five minutes.
+
+_Matelote_ may come in with the brown sauces, although it is not made
+with Spanish sauce as a foundation, but only with strong stock. It is
+used to simmer fish in when directed to be _a la matelote_, and if it
+were already thickened the whole would burn. It is made as follows: Half
+a pint of Sauterne or Chablis, half a pint of rich stock, two
+bay-leaves, three leaves of tarragon, chervil, and chive, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper; simmer these until
+reduced to one half-pint. A _touch_ of garlic is indispensable to the
+true matelote, but when used it must be done with the greatest caution;
+a fork stuck into a clove of it, then stirred in the sauce (the fork,
+when withdrawn, not the garlic), or a crust rubbed once across a piece
+of it, is the only way in which it should be used.
+
+Like the white sauces, the family of brown ones is very large, but I
+have given those which require special directions. Others are simply
+Spanish sauce with the addition of the ingredient which gives its name
+to it, as brown oyster sauce is simply Spanish sauce with oysters,
+celery sauce, mushroom sauce, and so on. It should always be remembered
+that the consistency must be preserved; that is to say, except when
+special mention is made of the sauce being thinner, it should "mask the
+spoon," and if the addition made to it is of a kind to dilute it, as
+mushrooms and part of their liquor, it must be rapidly boiled down to
+the original thickness. In the same way, when ingredients have to be
+simmered in the sauce--and this is very often the case--then a
+wineglassful or half one of broth or stock should be allowed for the
+wasting.
+
+In the next chapter we will make acquaintance with the miscellaneous
+sauces which are not built on the foundation of either white or brown
+sauce. These are chiefly cold sauces, although served with hot dishes at
+times, as Tartare, Remoulade, etc.
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+COLD SAUCES.
+
+
+Cold dishes, which are such a pleasing feature of foreign cookery, are
+much neglected with us, at least in private kitchens, or they are
+limited to two or three articles served in mayonnaise, or a galantine,
+yet the dishes which the French call _chaudfroids_ are both delicious
+and ornamental, and it only requires a little taste, care, and _perfect
+sauce_ to convert the ordinary cold chicken, turkey, or game into an
+elaborate and choice dish.
+
+Among cold sauces, of course mayonnaise, both green, red, and yellow,
+reigns supreme; indeed, of late years it has become almost hackneyed.
+Yet no work on choice eating would be complete without the different
+forms of mayonnaise.
+
+Mayonnaise is one of those sauces in which everything depends on care,
+and very little on skill, and yet some women have quite a reputation for
+making it among their friends who often declare how unsuccessful their
+own efforts have been, and that to succeed is a gift. It is not as a
+novelty, therefore, that the manner of making it is given here, but that
+those who believe they have not the "magic fingers" may take courage and
+try again.
+
+First of all let me explain what seems to puzzle many. I have been
+frequently asked, "How much oil can I use to two eggs?" the answer is,
+"As much as you choose;" or, again, "How many eggs ought I to take to a
+quart of oil?" again the answer is, "One, two, three, or four." The egg
+is only a foundation, and mayonnaise will "come" no better with two
+yolks than one, although some _chefs_ consider it keeps better when two
+eggs are used to a pint of oil.
+
+A cool room is always insisted on for making the sauce, but to the
+amateur I say, oil, eggs, and bowl also, should be put in the ice-box
+until well chilled, and even then mishaps may come from using a warm
+spoon from a hot kitchen drawer or closet; that, therefore, must be cool
+also. Of course it is often successfully made with only the usual
+precaution of a cool room, but with everything well chilled it is hard
+to fail.
+
+If very little of the sauce is wanted, one yolk of egg will be better
+than two. Separate the yolks very carefully, allowing not a speck of
+white to remain; remove also the germ which is attached to the yolk.
+_Stir the yolk at least a minute before_ beginning to add oil; then
+arrange your bottle or a sharp-spouted pitcher in your left hand so that
+it rests on the edge of the bowl, and you can keep up a pretty steady
+drop, drop, into the egg, while you stir with your right steadily. The
+oil must be added drop by drop, but this does not mean a drop every two
+or three minutes; you may add a drop to every one or two circuits of
+the spoon. The reason for adding it slowly is that each drop may form an
+emulsion with the egg before more goes in. After two or three minutes
+look carefully at the mixture; if it has not begun to look pale and
+opaque, but retains a dark, oily appearance, stir it steadily for two
+minutes, and then add oil slowly, drop by drop, stirring all the time.
+If it has not now begun to thicken, it probably will not; but the
+materials are not lost. Put the yolk of another egg into a cool bowl,
+and begin again using the egg and oil you have already mixed, in place
+of fresh oil. When this is all used, proceed with the oil (it is hoped,
+however, that the work will have proceeded without the necessity for
+beginning afresh). When the mayonnaise becomes quite thick, use a few
+drops of vinegar to thin it; then more oil, until sufficient sauce is
+made. Then white pepper and salt should be added for seasoning. The
+vinegar used should be very strong, so that very little of it will be
+sufficient to give the necessary acidity, without making it too thin.
+This is especially the case when the sauce is required to mask salad. It
+should for this purpose be set on ice until firm, but in all cases be
+kept cold. The best mayonnaise, left in a warm kitchen, would separate
+and become oily. The stirring must be steady and constant, and the task
+must not be left until completed.
+
+Mayonnaise is the basis of several other sauces, so that in
+accomplishing it a great deal is done.
+
+Green mayonnaise is made by dropping a bunch of parsley into boiling
+water, and in a minute or two, when it becomes intensely green, take it
+up, pound it in a mortar, and then through a sieve. Use as much pulp as
+will color the sauce a delicate green.
+
+Red mayonnaise, used for cardinal salad and other purposes, is made by
+pounding lobster coral very fine and stirring it in. It must not be
+forgotten that anything added to mayonnaise must be ice-cold.
+
+_Aspic mayonnaise_ is another form of the sauce, used in dressing cold
+dishes, and while more delicious than the usual sauce, will keep its
+form for hours after the dish is dressed. It is absolutely necessary to
+prepare it on ice. Put half a pint of stiff aspic jelly into a bowl set
+in cracked ice, whisk it with an egg-beater until it is a white froth
+(usually the motion will melt it, but to save labor it may be set in
+lukewarm water to soften, then beaten, but no oil must be added until it
+is again ice-cold froth); then beat in very gradually a quarter of a
+pint of olive oil and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, proceeding
+with the same care as for the usual mayonnaise; add a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and the same of powdered sugar.
+
+_Norwegian sauce_ is preferred by many to Tartare for some purposes, and
+is made by adding _freshly_ grated horseradish to mayonnaise in the
+proportion of two tablespoonfuls to half a pint.
+
+_Tartare sauce_ is mayonnaise with the addition of mustard, chives,
+pickles, and tarragon, chopped. As usually served, it has only mustard
+and capers or chopped cucumber, but for those to whom a slight flavor of
+onion is not disagreeable, chives should be added. To half a pint of
+mayonnaise use a teaspoonful of dry mustard mixed with two of tarragon
+vinegar, then stir into the sauce. To this add a tablespoonful either of
+capers or chopped pickled cucumber; this is the usual Tartare sauce; but
+the French recipe is a tablespoonful of very finely chopped chives, a
+teaspoonful each of fresh tarragon and chervil in place of the pickles.
+
+_Cold cucumber sauce_ is mayonnaise with an equal quantity of grated
+cucumber, drained, pressed, and stirred into it, with a saltspoonful of
+salt and a few drops of very strong vinegar.
+
+_Horseradish sauce_ is a very good sauce for hot or cold beef, roast or
+boiled. Grate three tablespoonfuls of horseradish fine, put to it a
+teaspoonful of sugar, one of salt, and one of vinegar, or a
+tablespoonful of Chablis wine; let them soak an hour or two, and the
+last thing before serving stir in four tablespoonfuls of cream that is
+whipped very solid. A half-teaspoonful of dry mustard is sometimes mixed
+with the horseradish, but that is a matter of taste. When the sauce is
+to be served hot, two yolks of egg and two tablespoonfuls of water must
+be substituted for cream, which would curdle. The water, horseradish,
+etc., must first come to the boiling-point, then the eggs added
+gradually, and just allowed to thicken, not to boil.
+
+_Mint Sauce._--Take only the young, tender leaves, not a bit of stem,
+and chop very fine indeed. To two tablespoonfuls add a tablespoonful and
+a half of brown sugar and three of vinegar. It should be quite thick,
+not as we so often see it--vinegar with a few bits of mint floating
+around.
+
+_Mint Jelly_ for masking cold lamb or cutlets.--Take two tablespoonfuls
+of Spanish sauce, and dissolve in it a good teaspoonful of gelatine
+softened in cold stock, a tablespoonful of aspic, and one of thick mint
+sauce. If no aspic is ready, it is not worth while to make for the small
+quantity needed; a teaspoonful of glaze, two of gelatine, and half a
+wineglass of Sauterne may be dissolved together to take its place. No
+gelatine will be needed with the Spanish sauce in this case.
+
+Sweet sauces will be left until the desserts are treated of.
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+SOUPS.
+
+
+It is not proposed to give the soups to be found readily in most
+cooking-books in these pages, but only those less known or of peculiar
+excellence.
+
+It is supposed that the reader understands the making of good beef or
+veal stock, and perhaps the usual way of clearing it. But since cooking
+has been studied scientifically, improvements on methods have been
+introduced; one of these is the clearing of soup with albumen of _meat_
+instead of egg. The advantages of this method are that the soup is
+strengthened and the flavor improved, while clearing with whites of eggs
+in the usual way, though greatly improving the appearance, tends to
+lessen the flavor of soup.
+
+_To clear Consomme with Beef._--Consomme is reduced stock, or stock
+made of extra strength. Carefully remove all fat from three pints of it
+when cold. It will, of course, be a stiff jelly. Chop fine an onion, a
+carrot, and a turnip. Chop half a pound of lean beef from which all fat
+is removed; this is best put through a chopping-machine, as it must be
+very fine. Put the consomme, meat, and vegetables into a saucepan. Stir
+them briskly till just on the boiling-point. Remove the spoon, let the
+soup boil up well one minute. It should now be clear. Take a clean
+cloth, fix it on a soup stand or in a colander, pour boiling water
+through it, to warm it thoroughly; throw the water away, and pour the
+soup gently through the cloth twice; do not press or stir it. It will be
+beautifully clear and of excellent color. It is now ready to serve for a
+variety of soups, named according to what is served in them.
+
+_Consomme a la Rachel._--This is consomme to which is added tiny
+quenelles made in eggspoons, and colored red, green, and black.
+Quenelle meat is made from the uncooked breast of chicken or game, the
+backs of hares or rabbits (or it may be made for certain purposes of
+fish or very white veal), first chopped, and then pounded in a mortar
+until it is a perfectly smooth paste. Mere chopped meat is not what is
+required; it must be fine enough to go through a sieve. For Consomme a
+la Rachel, however, the breast of chicken is necessary. Take four ounces
+of chicken, free from skin and sinew; pound it until quite smooth; the
+more it is pounded the better it is. Mix with it thick cream, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, very little pepper, and half a beaten egg, until
+it is a softish paste, yet firm enough to mould; mix thoroughly. Now try
+a little by poaching in a teaspoon; that is, fill a teaspoon with the
+mixture, pressing it in form, then drop it into boiling water for three
+minutes. Open the quenelle and taste it; if it is creamy, light, and
+well flavored, it is right, but if there is the least toughness, add a
+little more cream to the mixture. Notice also the seasoning; if more
+salt is needed, add it carefully, and try again, till you have the
+quenelle mixture just right, that is to say, creamy, light, very tender,
+yet keeping its form. At present quenelles as entrees or for soups form
+such an important part of fine cooking that it is worth while to get the
+mixture perfect for other purposes than the present.
+
+Having your quenelle meat ready, proceed to vary it as follows, allowing
+one quenelle of each color to each guest: For the green quenelles use
+sufficient pounded tarragon to color one third the meat delicately. For
+the second use sufficient lobster coral pounded to redden it. The third
+must be made dark with pounded truffles. Great care must be taken to
+keep the three portions separate, so that one color may not injure the
+other. To form them use two very small coffeespoons or eggspoons, as the
+quenelles should not be larger than _small_ olives; butter the spoons
+slightly, and when formed drop each for one or two minutes into boiling
+pale-colored stock. Drop them, as they are done, into cold water, in
+which they must be kept until you are ready to use them. When the soup
+is to be served, drain them, lay the number required in the tureen, and
+pour the boiling consomme on them. They will not require heating in the
+soup. It may be observed that raw spinach pounded and rubbed through a
+sieve, and boiled red beet, may be used to color the meat green and red,
+and the rest left white. The consomme is then called Consomme d'Orleans.
+
+_Consomme aux Oeufs files._--Put one quart of cleared consomme to
+boil. Mix one egg, one dessertspoonful of flour, one tablespoonful of
+milk, a pinch between forefinger and thumb of salt, and a dust of
+pepper, into a batter, rub a nutmeg once back and forth over the grater,
+and stir. When the soup boils, pass this batter through a fine strainer
+into it. It should look like threads.
+
+_Consomme a la Sevigne._--Pound two ounces of breast of cooked chicken
+until it will pass through a wide sieve. Mix with it two eggs, three
+tablespoonfuls of milk, twelve drops of almond essence, a scant
+saltspoonful of salt, as much nutmeg as will go on the end of a penknife
+blade, and a dust of cayenne. When well blended, fill three or four
+small round muffin pans, well greased, and steam slowly twenty minutes,
+or until set. Turn out very carefully; let them cool; then cut them into
+fancy shapes, and serve in one quart of boiling consomme. A few
+asparagus points boiled until just tender, but not mushy, are to be
+dropped in the last thing.
+
+_Potage a la Hollandaise._--For this will be required one quart of veal
+or chicken stock, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, four yolks
+of eggs, half a pint of cream, one gill of green peas, one gill of
+boiled carrots, one gill of boiled cucumber, one teaspoonful of fresh
+tarragon chopped fine, one teaspoonful of sugar, and one teaspoonful of
+salt. Trim the carrots and cucumber with a very small scoop or cutter
+the size and shape of peas; cook them just tender, and no more, in
+boiling water. Put the stock on to boil; skim if necessary; add the salt
+and sugar. Break the eggs into a bowl, add the cream to them, and beat
+them till well mixed. This forms a "liaison." Make the butter and flour
+into a paste in a bowl, pour half a gill of cold stock to it, then
+enough hot stock to dissolve it; when mixed smooth, stir it into the
+boiling stock, let it boil, then remove from the fire, and stir in very
+carefully, to prevent curdling, the liaison of eggs and cream; let it
+come to the boiling-point, but not boil, or it will curdle. Strain it
+into a clean stewpan, and add the vegetables; let all get hot together;
+then strew in the tarragon.
+
+_Chestnut Soup (puree de marrons)._--Slit twenty-five large chestnuts at
+each end, put them in boiling water, and boil ten minutes. Drop them
+into cold water, and remove both the outer and inner skin. Melt three
+ounces of butter in a saucepan, put in the chestnuts, and saute (toss
+them about) for a few minutes, but do not brown them; then add a pint
+and a half of rich white stock, and let the nuts boil in it until very
+tender, when they must be rubbed through a fine sieve. Boil up again,
+add half a pint of cream, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a teaspoonful
+of salt (less if the stock be salted), and a pinch of pepper.
+
+_Princess Soup._--Cut a chicken in pieces; wash it; butter a stewpan,
+put in the chicken with a blade of mace, an onion, a bay-leaf, and
+twelve white peppercorns. Let this simmer, _closely covered_, ten
+minutes, shaking it often to prevent its browning; then put to it two
+quarts of hot veal stock, and simmer one hour. Put into another stewpan
+two ounces of flour and two ounces of butter; stir them together, and
+let them bubble once, then strain the liquor from the chicken to it;
+stir well, and cook a few minutes. Take the white meat from the bones of
+the chicken, pound it in a mortar very fine, stir it to the stock, then
+rub through a soup strainer; add just before serving half a pint of
+fresh cream and the juice of half a lemon. This soup must be made hot,
+but not boil, after the chicken pulp and cream are added.
+
+_Potage a la Royale._--Boil two ounces of macaroni till tender, but not
+broken; throw it into cold water. Put three pints of white stock to
+boil; cut the macaroni into lengths half an inch long; beat three yolks
+of eggs in a bowl with a gill of cream; throw the macaroni into the
+soup; when it boils, remove from the fire, add the cream and eggs and an
+ounce of grated Parmesan cheese; stir till the soup reaches the
+boiling-point, but by no means let it boil, after the cream and eggs are
+added, or it will be spoiled. Salt soup always in the proportion of a
+moderate teaspoonful of salt to the quart; if the stock is seasoned,
+only add salt for the cream, eggs, etc. Use just a suspicion of cayenne.
+In making soup to which eggs are added, the utmost care is required, yet
+not any more than in making custard. The main point is to let the eggs
+come near enough to the boiling-point to thicken, yet far enough from it
+not to curdle. This a little patience will accomplish by watching and
+removing the saucepan for a few seconds as the boiling-point approaches,
+then returning it; do this once or twice, till the opaque, creamy
+appearance shows the eggs are done.
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+FISH ENTREES.
+
+
+Instead of giving recipes for cooking fish whole, for which excellent
+directions are to be found in several modern cookery books, recipes for
+fish entrees will be substituted. They are now frequently served at the
+fish course, and by their convenience and economy, as well as the
+variety they afford, are likely to grow in favor. Another point for them
+is that they can often be made hours before, and simply heated when
+needed, thus relieving the cook of the most critical part of her work at
+the time when she needs her attention free.
+
+Some of these entrees will be more suited for breakfast, luncheon, or
+supper dishes than to precede a heavy dinner, such, for instance, as the
+preparations of oysters when they have been also served before soup;
+but the recipes are included here for their intrinsic worth.
+
+_Fillets of Cod a la Normande._--Butter a tin dish, lay on it three
+slices of cod moderately thick (an inch to an inch and a half), pour
+over them one wineglass of white wine, place a buttered paper over them,
+and bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. Reduce another glass of
+wine in a stewpan by simmering, add to it half a pint of white sauce,
+twelve small oysters, bearded and blanched, twelve small
+quenelles,[62-*] and twelve button mushrooms. Season with pepper and
+salt. Simmer one minute only, or the oysters will harden. Place the
+slices of fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, place the
+oysters, mushrooms, and quenelles in groups in the corners of the dish.
+
+_Lobster Soufflees._--Cut up the meat of a boiled hen lobster into neat
+dice, showing as much of the red as possible. Prepare as many small
+ramekin or soufflee cases as may be required by pinning bands of
+writing-paper round them two to three inches higher than the case. Take
+three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise, half a pint of stiff aspic jelly,
+and a gill of tomato sauce in which a teaspoonful of gelatine has been
+dissolved. Every utensil used must be ice-cold, the jelly must be quite
+cold, but not set. Put the tomato sauce, the jelly, and the mayonnaise
+(which should be left on the ice till the last thing) into a bowl set in
+another bowl of pounded ice; whisk them together until they begin to
+look white; then stir the lobster in it, with a teaspoonful of very
+finely chopped chervil and tarragon; fill the soufflee cases, piling the
+dressing high; put them on a dish on ice. When they are "set," carefully
+remove the paper bands, sprinkle a little dried and sifted lobster coral
+over the tops, and serve.
+
+_Coquilles of Prawns._--Pick the shells from four dozen prawns; mix
+with one third the quantity of mushrooms slightly stewed in a
+tablespoonful of butter and a saltspoonful of salt (the mushrooms must
+not be brown); add four tablespoonfuls of Allemande sauce;[64-*] fill
+the shells, which must be well buttered, dress each over with fine bread
+crumbs which have been carefully fried a golden brown; put them in a
+cool oven twenty minutes, only get thoroughly hot, but not to cook.
+
+_Coquilles of Salmon or Halibut._--Take one pound of cold halibut or
+salmon; break it into small pieces; put it in a stewpan with half a
+saltspoonful of salt and a tiny pinch of pepper, and half a pint of
+white sauce, a tablespoonful of very thick cream, and a teaspoonful of
+anchovy sauce; stir well, and let all get hot. Butter some shells,
+sprinkle over with a few fried crumbs, fill with the mixture, cover with
+the fried crumbs, and put them in the oven to get thoroughly hot. Serve
+on a napkin.
+
+_Salmon en Papillotes._--Cut some slices of salmon into cutlets the
+right size for serving, make paper cases to fit them, then cover each
+slice with the following mixture: two tablespoonfuls of salad oil beaten
+with the yolk of an egg, one teaspoonful of parsley chopped, one shallot
+chopped, and one anchovy (all these must be chopped as finely as
+possible), a half-saltspoonful of salt, and a grain of cayenne; mix,
+spread on the fish, envelop each piece in a well-buttered case, fasten
+up (by pinching the paper well), and bake half an hour. Serve in the
+papers.
+
+_Fillet of Sole a la Normande._--In speaking of sole, one of course
+means the flounder, which is coming to be called the American sole, and
+when filleted does make a fair substitute for the real thing, and it is
+suitable for cooking in every way that the English sole can be used,
+except whole. A boiled flounder without filleting, or a flounder fried
+whole, as is so often done with sole, would be very coarse. Fillet two
+flounders (in cities this will be done by the fishmonger, but in the
+country it may have to be done in the kitchen, therefore directions for
+doing it will be appended), lay the fillets, neatly trimmed and shaped,
+into a thickly buttered pan or dish--either fire-proof porcelain or any
+other that can go to table--pour over them a glass of sherry and four
+tablespoonfuls of consomme; cover with oiled paper, and bake ten minutes
+in a moderate oven; take out the pan, pour over the fillets half a pint
+of _sauce Normande_; return to the oven for five minutes, and serve in
+the pan.
+
+_Sole a l'Horly._--Make a frying batter thus: mix one tablespoonful of
+milk with two ounces of flour and a tablespoonful of salad oil to a
+smooth paste; then add two yolks of eggs, and the whites whipped firm,
+with a quarter of a saltspoonful of salt; mix with an upward movement of
+the spoon, so as not to deaden the whites of eggs. Set it aside while
+you prepare the sole. Mix a tablespoonful of salad oil, a teaspoonful of
+Chili vinegar, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a teaspoonful of
+parsley and one of onion chopped exceedingly fine, a scant saltspoonful
+of salt, and a quarter one of pepper. Mix all together, then cut the
+fillets in half, trimming away all ragged appearance, and lay them for
+fifteen minutes in the mixture (called a marinade); take them out, drain
+them on a sieve, and then dip each fillet in the batter. This batter
+should be just thick enough to coat the fish and run slowly off, not
+cling in a thick paste round it. A French rule for testing the thickness
+of frying batter is to dip a spoon in it and then let a drop run off the
+end on a plate; if it drops freely, yet keeps a beadlike form, it is
+right. Fry each fillet in a wire basket three minutes in very hot deep
+fat. Serve with fried parsley.
+
+_Turbans of Sole a la Rouennaise._--As these require a little of the
+same mixture as would be used for lobster cutlets or croquettes, it is
+good management to have them when lobster is required for something
+else. The mixture for the cutlets is made as follows (less than a fourth
+of it would be required for the turbans): remove all the flesh from a
+boiled hen lobster; chop it small; wash, dry, and pound the coral, with
+an ounce of butter; take one gill of white sauce, mix the lobster coral
+and a tablespoonful of cream with it, and boil five minutes; mix in the
+lobster with a little salt (unless the lobster is salt enough) and a
+grain of cayenne. This made into cutlets, egged, crumbed, and fried, is
+excellent, but our purpose now is to use it for stuffing. Take as many
+fillets of sole as required, spread the lobster mixture on each, roll
+them up, run a toothpick through them to keep them in shape; trim till
+each will stand; put them on a buttered baking-sheet, cover with
+buttered paper, and bake ten minutes. Chop up two truffles, two
+hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and a tablespoonful of parsley, each chopped
+separately. Take up the turbans, pour over them half a pint of cardinal
+sauce, and ornament the turbans, one with the truffles, one with the
+yolk of egg, and one with parsley; so on alternately.
+
+_Directions for Filleting Flounders._--Take a sharp knife, cut away the
+fins all round the fish, and split the flounder right down the middle of
+the back, then run the knife carefully between the flesh and bones,
+going towards the edge. You have now detached one quarter of the flesh
+from the bone; do the other half in the same way, and when the back is
+thus entirely loose from the bone, turn the fish over and do the same
+with the other side. You will now find you can remove the bone whole
+from the fish, detaching, as you do so, any flesh still retaining the
+bone. Then you have two halves of the fish, and you have four quarters
+of solid fish. To remove the skin, take the tail end firmly between the
+thumb and forefinger of the left hand, hold the skin side downward on
+the board, and with your knife make an incision across the flesh, then,
+keeping the skin firmly between your thumb and finger, _push_ the knife
+between it and the flesh, slightly humoring it to prevent tearing the
+flesh. The skin parts quite easily, but no attempt must be made to _cut_
+the fish from it.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[62-*] See Quenelles in No. VI.
+
+[64-*] See directions in No. II.
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING OYSTERS.
+
+
+_Oysters a la Villeroi._--Scald (or blanch) some large oysters, dry
+them, then drop them into some _very thick_ Villeroi sauce,[71-*] let
+them get hot in it, but not boil. Take them out one by one; be sure they
+are thickly coated with the sauce; have a large dish heaped with sifted
+crumbs or cracker meal; as you lift each oyster from the sauce lay it on
+the meal, turn it gently over in the meal, so that a light coat adheres,
+and the sauce is by no means rubbed off. Place them on an oiled plate
+where they will get quite cold, so that the sauce may chill and form a
+whitish glaze under the crumbs. Beat two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of
+water, and when free from strings dip each oyster in the egg, using a
+small fork; let superfluous egg drip off for a moment, then lay the
+oyster again on a deep bed of cracker crumbs, cover well, pat very
+gently, and lay each as you do it on a dish sprinkled with them. Fry two
+minutes in very hot deep fat, being careful the oysters do not touch
+each other.
+
+If I have made these directions as clear as I hope, it will be
+understood that each oyster has a rich creamy coating under the crumbs,
+and every effort must be made to avoid breaking the outer shell of egg
+and crumb. For this reason the fat should be heated to 400 deg.. But
+although great care in handling is necessary, they are not difficult to
+succeed with when that care is given.
+
+_Oyster Kabobs._--There are two ways of preparing these dainties, and I
+give both. For those who cannot eat bacon the first will probably be
+acceptable. For kabobs of any kind, silver or plated skewers are proper,
+although very slender wooden ones may be used. Put in a stewpan a small
+onion chopped _very fine_, a dessertspoonful of parsley, and a dozen
+mushrooms, also chopped; let these fry one minute in a large
+tablespoonful of butter, add a dessertspoonful (scant) of flour, stir
+all together, then drop in as many fat oysters as are required; they
+must have been blanched in their own liquor and the beards removed; stir
+all round, and add three beaten yolks of eggs, one at a time, taking
+care they do not curdle, but get just thick enough to cling round the
+oyster. String six oysters on each little skewer, basting with the sauce
+wherever it does not adhere; let each skewer cool, then roll the whole
+in beaten eggs and abundant cracker meal, so that the skewer will seem
+to be run through a sausage lengthwise. Fry two minutes in very hot deep
+fat, serve on a napkin; allow one skewer to each person. Two minutes, if
+the fat be sufficiently hot, will fry oysters a pale yellow-brown. They
+should never take longer than this, for oysters harden and shrink if
+overdone in the least. For this reason the use of a pyrometer, when
+possible, saves mistakes and trouble. Such articles as oysters, smelts,
+or any small things, should be fried at a temperature of 380 deg. to 400 deg..
+It must be remembered that all fried articles darken after they leave
+the frying-kettle, and therefore a very pale yellow becomes a golden
+color on the dish.
+
+_Kabobs_ No. 2.--This is the recipe given by the author of the
+well-known Pytchley Books, and is admirable. Take the beards from as
+many fat, fair-sized oysters as required. You require bacon of which the
+fat is thick enough through to allow of circles being cut from the
+slices as large as the oysters. Cut the bacon very thin, get a cutter
+the size of the oysters, trim them with it, then cut eight circles of
+bacon for six oysters. Put first a piece of bacon, then an oyster, then
+more bacon, on each little skewer, till there are six oysters with a
+piece of bacon between each through the centre and one at each end;
+string them very evenly. Take a very little cayenne on the tip of a
+knife and a saltspoonful of salt; mix this with two beaten eggs to which
+two tablespoonfuls of water have been added. Dip each skewer of kabobs
+in this; let them drip an instant, then lay them on a deep bed of crumbs
+or cracker meal. Cover them thoroughly, shake them, then dip again into
+the egg (if this has become full of crumbs strain it), and again lay
+them in the meal. Shake lightly again, and arrange each skewer of kabobs
+in a frying-basket, and fry two minutes.
+
+I have spoken in the foregoing directions for "crumbing" of using
+_plenty_ of meal, and experience tells me that the rule with those
+unfamiliar with proper methods is to use so little that a plateful would
+be considered _plenty_. With this quantity no good work can be done. You
+need to turn on to a board or dish at least a quart of crumbs, or a
+whole box of cracker meal. This will enable you to smother the article
+until every part is covered, instead of sprinkling a little over and
+under (which generally falls off as fast as put on, and leaves a surface
+yellow with egg in parts), as you must do if a small quantity only is
+used. All the meal that is left must be carefully sifted and put away.
+If the small masses of egg and crumb which will be mixed with it are not
+sifted out the cracker-meal cannot be used again. There must also be
+plenty of egg used for dipping.
+
+_Oysters in Aspic._--For these dariole moulds are needed, or the small
+fire-proof china soufflee cases which imitate paper may be used. A
+dariole is a small straight-sided tin mould, holding rather less than a
+gill. They will be found at large house-furnishing stores, or a tinman
+could easily make them, they being, in fact, like deep corn-muffin pans.
+If they are made to order, avoid getting them too large--three inches
+deep by two across will be large enough. Fill these moulds with aspic
+jelly nearly cold, set them on ice while you prepare the oysters, which
+must be bearded and cooked till plump in butter, but not allowed to
+color. When cool, cut them in half, throw them into some stiff
+bechamel,[77-*] which must be warmed till like thick cream, sprinkle
+with a dust of cayenne; lay the oysters to get cold, that the bechamel
+may harden on them. Scoop the centre very carefully out of the moulds of
+aspic, leaving a half-inch thickness all round, fill the centres with
+the oysters, pour in more aspic, cold, but not set, and put on ice for a
+few hours, or till ready to serve. The aspic from the centres should
+have been preserved and used to chop with more to garnish the dish. Turn
+the moulds out very carefully, and garnish with chopped aspic and
+watercress or parsley.
+
+It is, of course, understood that bechamel sauce, cold, is like
+blanc-mange, and that anything coated with it will be enveloped in white
+jelly, not in a sticky white sauce. If bechamel does not become white
+jelly when cold the stock of which it is made is not stiff enough.
+
+_Lobster in Aspic_ is prepared as for salad, the solid meat cut in dice
+and rolled in mayonnaise, then in chopped chervil or parsley. Then
+proceed exactly as for the oysters.
+
+_Oysters a la Tartare._--The oyster-shells for serving oysters a la
+Tartare must be of good shape and exquisitely clean; therefore, when
+using oysters on the half-shell, always pick out any that may be deep
+yet stand well, and have a good shape; scald and scrub them, and keep
+for use. Scald as many fat oysters as required in their own liquor till
+firm--three minutes at boiling-point will usually do this; the oysters
+must be just plump, yet if underdone they will be flabby. Put them on
+ice, choose as many tiny leaves as you have oysters from the heart of a
+lettuce; they must all be of a size, or trimmed so, and the size only
+just large enough to line the shells without coming over them. Lay a
+leaf on each shell, cut each oyster in half, lay four halves in pyramid
+fashion on the lettuce leaf, and mask the top of each, just before
+serving, with Tartare sauce. Allow two to each person.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[71-*] See No. II.
+
+[77-*] See No. II.
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+VARIOUS CULINARY MATTERS.
+
+
+This little book does not pretend to go into what may be called the
+principles of cooking, except in so far as they are involved in the
+production of all choice cookery; and where it is considered that a
+principle is little known or too little attended to, the effort will be
+made to give it emphasis by reiteration here.
+
+By principles of cooking I mean the simple rules by which roasting,
+boiling, stewing, etc., are successfully accomplished. Any book or
+series of articles written a dozen years ago would have been of no real
+use without these rudiments, but within that period there have been
+cooking-schools started and cookery books written so exceedingly exact
+in directions that it will be unnecessary to repeat them in "Choice
+Cookery," which does not pretend to include family cooking.
+
+For this reason the cooking of joints of meat will not be entered into.
+Nevertheless there are certain rudiments of cooking which are not dwelt
+on usually in books. They are taught in the cooking-schools, and those
+of my readers who have had the advantage of attending them will not need
+the instruction here given. But I meet with many women who devote much
+time to the art of cooking, and who have taught themselves by book and
+experiment all they know, who yet, when told to chop a small quantity of
+herbs very fine, will struggle and chop almost leaf by leaf in their
+faithful endeavor to carry out the direction. Others, less faithful,
+finding their method chops some parts fine and leaves some leaves almost
+whole, let it go at that, with the reflection that "that _must_ do, as
+it would take all day" to get them all one degree of fineness. So,
+although it may seem almost too trivial a point to need mention, we
+will go into the matter of herb-chopping, lemon-grating, etc., that the
+simple operations may be performed easily and in a very short time.
+
+_To Chop Herbs._--Use the leaves only, never the stems; let them be
+fresh and crisp, or, if wilted, leave them in water for a time. Gather
+the leaves firmly between the thumb and three fingers of the left hand;
+shave them through with a sharp knife as you push them forward under it.
+(The process resembles chaff-cutting by hand machine.) Turn them round;
+gather them up again, and cut across them in the same way; then finish
+by chopping quickly, holding the point of the knife with the left hand
+and bringing it down on the little heap of herbs with the right, always
+gathering them together as fast as the chopping scatters them. Five
+minutes will chop a tablespoonful of mint or parsley almost to pulp. A
+sharp steel knife and a small board must be used, not the
+chopping-bowl.
+
+French books often direct so much _fine herbs_ to be used; English books
+mean the same thing when they call for "sweet herbs," and a mixture of
+one part marjoram, two parts thyme, and three parts parsley is meant by
+both.
+
+The grating of a lemon is a most simple operation, and it may seem that
+every one must know how to do it; but this is far from being the case.
+As many dishes of curdled custards and sauces are caused by this fact,
+the right way in this case is very important. The object of using grated
+rind of lemon is to obtain the fragrance and flavor, which differ very
+greatly from any extracts, however good. Now the whole of the oil which
+contains this fragrance is at the surface--is, in fact, the yellow
+portion of the rind; therefore this, and only this, must be removed with
+the grater. The white part underneath is bitter, and will cause milk or
+cream to curdle, but it contains no particle of lemon flavor. Yet when
+lemon flavor is called for the lemon is often grated right down to the
+pulp in parts, while the yellow rind is left on in patches.
+
+A lemon should be grated evenly, beginning at the end and working round
+it, using as small a surface of the grater as possible, to prevent
+waste. The habit of turning the lemon as you grate comes as easily as to
+turn an apple under the knife when peeling. Generally twice across the
+grater and back between each turn will remove all the essential oil,
+but, while guarding against grating too deeply, care must be taken to
+remove the whole of the yellow surface. A well-grated lemon should be
+exactly of the same shape as before, have no deep scores into the pith,
+and have an oily-looking surface.
+
+Perhaps before proceeding to the preparation of the combination dishes
+known as made dishes or entrees, a few words may be useful to those
+readers whose ambition to accomplish results may cause them to defeat
+their own ends. To such I would say, go slowly; never attempt the more
+difficult thing until the simpler one is beyond chance of failure. Thus
+in following the instructions in this book the wiser women will have
+accomplished, perhaps, each week one or two things they may have
+selected, and it must not be forgotten the plan of the work is that one
+recipe shall serve as a key to many others.
+
+A great many will very likely have delayed trying to make the sauces
+until the dish for which they will be required is given. This is a
+mistake, because it is less annoying to fail with a sauce with no dish
+depending on it, than, say, when you have decided to have sole _a la
+Villeroi_, the soles being ready, and fail with the sauce.
+
+I hope that no failure will come to any one trying the recipes here
+given, but in some cases, especially in sauces thickened with eggs, a
+second's diverted attention may cause failure without fault of the cook.
+Therefore it is best to make single experiments when there is no danger
+of being disturbed, and when there is nothing else to be attended to.
+The successful result need never be lost, for in the case of sauces they
+can be reheated the next day in a bain-marie, or pan of hot water; the
+same with the soups, and, indeed, most other things, except soufflees
+and omelets.
+
+But, above all things, never try a recipe for the first time the day you
+wish it to appear perfect on your table; try it long before, and if you
+fail, make the same thing over again, reading the directions very
+carefully; some trifling caution or precaution may have escaped you. No
+one ever learns to draw so simple a thing as a circle who is discouraged
+at the first bad curve, and leaves it for easier lines. Keep on at the
+thing you select to do until you succeed, always choosing _and
+perfecting_ the easiest thing in each class first.
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+ENTREES.
+
+
+_Fillet of Beef._--This favorite dish with French and Americans may be
+roasted whole, or cut so as to serve individually. To roast it whole, it
+must be trimmed perfectly round, and either larded or not as taste may
+dictate. A fillet weighing four pounds should be roasted three quarters
+of an hour in a sharp oven. It may then be served _a la Chateaubriand_
+by pouring over it half a pint of the sauce of that name, with
+horseradish sauce, or brown mushroom sauce (brown sauce with mushrooms
+added).
+
+To serve individually, fillets are prepared in the following way: Cut a
+fillet into eight slices three quarters of an inch thick; trim the
+slices into perfect circles, all exactly the same size; flatten them;
+put them in a hot pan, and saute for seven or eight minutes in two
+ounces of butter; dress them round a dish, and pour over them the sauce
+from which the dish will take its name.
+
+_Filets de Boeuf a la Bearnaise._--Serve with half a pint of Bearnaise
+sauce.
+
+_Filets de Boeuf aux Champignons._--Dress as before; leave in the centre
+of the dish room for a mound of stewed mushrooms; pour over the fillets
+half a pint of rich brown sauce. Serve these dishes as soon as cooked:
+the meat is spoiled by waiting.
+
+I have received several letters from readers living where lobster is
+only to be had in cans, asking if there is no substitute for the coral
+in making cardinal sauce. Canned lobster frequently contains a great
+deal of coral, which is as good for coloring and flavoring as the fresh.
+This can only be known, however, before opening, when the cans are of
+glass. The pulp of red beet-root passed through a sieve and added to
+white sauce or mayonnaise gives a beautiful red tint; but the flavor,
+while excellent for a salad or as vegetable sauce, would be unsuitable
+for serving with fish.
+
+_Grenadines of Beef with Mushrooms and Poivrade Sauce._--Take as many
+slices of fillet of beef, cut three quarters of an inch thick, as you
+require. Trim them to a pear shape, three and a half inches long and
+three wide at the broadest part. Lard these with bacon, and put them
+into a saute pan with a gill of brown sauce and a glass of sherry (half
+the sauce if there are very few grenadines); let them cook gently for
+fifteen minutes. Dissolve a piece of glaze the size of a walnut by
+putting it in a cup which is set in boiling water; when dissolved, take
+up the grenadines, dish them in a circle, and glaze them (a brush is
+properly used for this purpose, but the glaze can be spread with a knife
+dipped in hot water). Fill the centre of the circle with a pyramid of
+small mushrooms mixed with a gill and a half of poivrade sauce.[88-*]
+
+_Fillets of Beef a la Grande-Bretagne._--Cut two pounds of fillet into
+neat slices an inch thick; slit them (with a small French boning-knife
+or small penknife) in such a way that you form a pocket in each the
+mouth or opening of which is smaller than the pocket itself. This can be
+done by laying the fillet flat on a board, laying your hand on the top
+of it, making a slit two inches wide, then with the point of the knife
+enlarging the slit inside, but not the entrance to it. The opening
+should extend half-way through; into this put a force-meat made of
+horseradish sauce[89-*] and macaroni boiled and cut fine. The force-meat
+must be used sparingly, so as not to increase materially the thickness
+of the fillet; fasten the opening of each with a wooden toothpick. Saute
+these fillets for fifteen minutes; glaze them as directed in last
+recipe; arrange them in a circle, with a pyramid of tiny potato balls in
+the centre. Pour rich brown sauce round.
+
+_Mutton Cutlets a la d'Uxelles._--Cut some cutlets from the neck of
+mutton, leaving two bones to each, trim very carefully, remove the upper
+part of one bone, split the cutlets without separating them at the bone,
+spread some thick d'Uxelles sauce[90-*] inside, fold the cutlets
+together, run a toothpick through them, and broil for four minutes on
+each side over a hot fire. Have a layer of chopped mushrooms stewed in
+butter in the dish, lay the cutlets on it, pour over some d'Uxelles
+sauce, and garnish with truffles, cut in very thin circles.
+
+_Mutton Cutlets a la Milanais._--Take six cutlets from a neck of mutton
+("French chops," many butchers term them), mix equal quantities of
+grated Parmesan cheese and cracker meal. Dip the cutlets into rich thick
+brown sauce,[90-[+]] then into the cracker and Parmesan; shake off loose
+crumbs; dip them now into beaten egg in which a little salt and very
+finely chopped parsley and chives have been mixed, and then dip them a
+second time in the Parmesan and bread crumbs; drop them into a kettle of
+very hot fat; in four minutes they will be done. Do not fry more than
+four at a time, as too many cool the fat. Dish them in a circle with
+spaghetti dressed with Parmesan in the centre.
+
+It seems to me just here that before giving further recipes for fried
+articles I had better make sure that all my readers understand the
+process of frying in deep fat. I have used the word _saute_ too, and
+although no doubt both these processes are familiar to most readers who
+would be likely to practise "Choice Cookery," for those who are not
+adepts many of the recipes would be impossible to execute. Frying, once
+understood, is so easy a process one wonders that so few should excel in
+it. To those who are not sure of themselves I recommend practice. A
+couple of hours' practice and careful observance of rules will enable a
+bright woman to fry successfully.
+
+For this practice you may prepare several different articles and fry one
+after the other--one or two very soft and creamy croquettes, one or two
+breaded articles, especially such as are dipped in thick sauce before
+being crumbed, etc.
+
+The principle on which articles that are very soft and creamy,
+underneath the surface of egg and crumbs, are fried is this: the creamy
+substances, whether rich sauce like d'Uxelles and Villeroi, or the cream
+used to mix croquettes, must always be made of stock that will jelly
+when cold. The sauce is used warm, and the articles are put to chill on
+ice, so that they are in a jellied condition. Now the fat into which
+they are plunged must be so hot that it sets the coating of egg and
+crumbs, which forms a thin shell, as it were, before the jelly has had
+time to melt; the shell once formed, the interior cooks in the intense
+heat very quickly. If the fat were not hot enough, croquettes would go
+all to pieces, and articles coated with sauce would lose the better
+part of it.
+
+To fry, you require a stewpan or iron kettle; those called Scotch
+kettles are best, as they set into the range readily. A frying-pan is
+only useful for sauteing in little fat. Articles to be fried must be
+immersed in fat, and no frying-pan is deep enough to do this safely. Put
+two to three pounds of clarified dripping or lard into the kettle, and
+let it get very hot. This will be after it ceases to sputter--some time
+after, perhaps; but you must now begin to watch for smoke to rise from
+the _centre_. Have near you some little squares of bread crumb; drop one
+in from time to time; only when it colors _immediately_ is the fat hot
+enough. At this point no time must be lost, and your frying begins.
+
+Of course you will have the articles you intend to fry right at hand.
+You will also need a large dish, in which you lay common butcher's
+wrapping-paper (often called "kitchen paper") and a perforated
+skimmer--some like a frying-basket, and for very small things it is an
+assistance; but for croquettes, cutlets, etc., it is not necessary: they
+can be laid on the skimmer and dropped in the fat.
+
+The easiest and safest way to fry is to use a cooking thermometer
+(pyrometers or frimometers they are sometimes called), and let the fat
+be 380 deg. for croquettes, oysters, and articles that only require two
+minutes' cooking; 360 deg. for cutlets and heavier articles.
+
+The time required for articles to cook in the frying-kettle seems
+astonishingly short. For instance, a breaded chop will be cooked to a
+medium degree in two and a half minutes, well done in three minutes; but
+it must be remembered the heat is intense. Croquettes must never be left
+longer than two minutes, while whitebait (which, however, require
+special instruction to fry without getting them into a cake) need less
+than a minute. Potatoes require longer than most things; but the fat
+need not be cooler at first, as would seem necessary, because they are
+so full of water, even when well dried, that they cool the fat rapidly.
+
+_Sauteing_ (a word that would be expressive of the process in English
+would be a boon to writers on cooking).--The process generally meant by
+"frying" is really sauteing; yet so general has been the misconception
+among all but professed cooks, that one has to take the precaution in
+giving directions for frying to say, "Fry _in deep_ fat." It ought to be
+understood that to fry is to _immerse_ in hot fat. If some term suitable
+for kitchen use could be found, half the difficulty would be over. In
+old English books a very fair translation was used; they told you to
+"toss the article in butter," but though it rendered saute "jump"
+fairly, it did not express the process. There is neither tossing nor
+jumping about it, unless an occasional shake to the pan be called so;
+and as "flat frying," "dry frying," are awkward, the sooner we boldly
+take saute into common use, and let it become a kitchen word as familiar
+as fricassee (which surely must have been very unfamiliar once), the
+better.
+
+To saute--although every Bridget or Gretchen fancies she can do
+it--requires nicety and care to do it well, and is far more difficult
+than "frying in deep fat." The pan requires to be hot, also the fat or
+butter used, which should cover the bottom of the pan; a bright fire is
+required. Things that take long to cook require more fat than those that
+require but a short time. Effort must be made to adjust the proportion,
+as adding cold fat prevents browning. Veal cutlets and many other things
+are far better sauted than fried. The articles sauted require to be
+watched that they do not burn; yet they must not be too often turned, or
+they will not brown--except, of course, such things as are chopped,
+which require frequent stirring up.
+
+In speaking of chilling articles coated with sauce to be fried, I
+omitted to give the caution that, in the case of meats, care must be
+taken not to leave them long enough to freeze the meat.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[88-*] See No. IV.
+
+[89-*] See No. V.
+
+[90-*] See No. II.
+
+[90-[+]] See No. IV.
+
+
+
+
+XI.
+
+ENTREES OF MUTTON CUTLETS OR CHOPS.
+
+
+_Mutton Cutlets a la Duchesse._--Take as many cutlets (or French chops)
+as required. Stew them in stock, with a small bouquet of herbs, very
+gently until they are perfectly tender. Take them up, skim the stock,
+and strain it; return to a small saucepan, and reduce the liquid to a
+glaze; dip each cutlet in the glaze and lay it aside. Have ready what
+cooks now call a "panada," made of a gill of thick white sauce, two
+yolks of eggs stirred into it and allowed to approach the boiling-point,
+but not to boil (this, of course, must be done in a double boiler), or
+the eggs will curdle; chop a dessertspoonful of parsley very fine;
+parboil and chop also very fine three onions; pound thoroughly in a
+mortar eight mushrooms; stir these all into the thick sauce, with a
+saltspoonful of salt and a quarter one of pepper. Roll each cutlet in
+this force-meat (if found too stiff to adhere properly, moisten with a
+little cream or a little liquor from the mushrooms), lay them on a
+fire-proof dish, and cover with bread crumbs and bits of butter. Bake
+them until they are a golden brown. Serve with brown Soubise sauce.
+
+_Lamb Cutlets en Concombre._--Trim and cut six lamb cutlets three
+quarters of an inch thick, flatten them a little to make them of equal
+size and thickness; flour them, and saute them in butter five minutes.
+The fire must be sharp, because they must be a nice brown on both sides.
+Arrange them round an entree dish, with a gill of brown sauce poured
+outside, and a pint of fillets of cucumber in the centre.
+
+_To Prepare Fillets of Cucumber._--Cut firm fresh cucumbers lengthwise
+through the middle, remove seeds and all soft parts, cut into inch
+lengths and into olive shapes all the same size. Put them into a
+stewpan with an ounce of butter, a pinch of pepper, a saltspoonful of
+sugar and one of salt, and let them stew until quite tender, without
+acquiring any color. To do this the stewpan must be closely covered and
+frequently shaken.
+
+_Lamb Cutlets with a Puree of Mushrooms._--Trim and cook and serve the
+cutlets as in the foregoing recipe, only in place of the cucumbers make
+a puree of mushrooms in the following way: stew half a pint of button
+mushrooms and part of their liquor in half a pint of white sauce until
+they are very tender (taking care the sauce does not burn), pound them
+in a mortar, then force them through a vegetable strainer; then add
+enough of the white sauce in which they were stewed to make the puree
+the substance of very thick cream.
+
+_Cold Lamb Cutlets in Mint Jelly._--Roast a piece of what butchers call
+the rack of lamb, which is really the neck and ribs. Let it get cold;
+cut from it six cutlets, which trim just as if they were uncooked; that
+is to say, remove meat and fat from the bone, and scrape it. Mask each
+of the cutlets in mint jelly[101-*] warmed enough to be half fluid.
+Arrange very carefully round an entree dish when they are perfectly set,
+so that the jelly will not come off. Have a Russian salad in the centre.
+
+_How to Prepare the Salad._--To prepare this you require two or three
+small vegetable cutters of pretty shape; use them to trim carrots, white
+turnips, and cucumbers into small, attractive forms; boil these in
+separate waters till tender; also green peas, sprays of cauliflower, and
+very tiny young string-beans. Throw each vegetable as it is cooked into
+ice-cold water to keep the color. Have some red beet-root boiled
+_before_ it is cut into shapes. Use equal quantities of each vegetable.
+Arrange them with peas in the centre, and the others in circles round,
+studying the effect of color; then dress, but do not mask, them with
+green mayonnaise.
+
+At seasons when materials for Russian salad cannot readily be obtained
+the chops may be served with a centre of cucumber salad, or one made of
+the small white leaves of lettuce.
+
+_Cutlets Chaudfroid a la Russe._--For this cold dish mutton cutlets are
+used. They must be of the finest quality, and from mutton not newly
+killed. Cut as many cutlets as required, trim, and scrape the bone.
+Braise for an hour in a moderate oven till the meat is very tender,
+remove, and press between two dishes until they are cold. Then trim each
+cutlet into perfect shape. Boil a quart of strong stock (which already
+jellies) down to less than half a pint; dip each chop into this glaze
+once or twice, till they look "varnished." You now require a pint of
+stiff aspic jelly; turn it out of the bowl, cut one or two slices a
+quarter of an inch thick from it, to be cut into shapes (or croutons)
+with a cutter to garnish the cutlets. Chop the rest of the aspic, lay
+it round the dish, and the cutlets against it, with the croutons of
+aspic to form the outer edge. The centre must be filled with a Russian
+salad, in this case stirred up with very thick mayonnaise, instead of
+being formally arranged. The mayonnaise must be only sufficient to dress
+the vegetables, none to run into the other materials, and beet-root must
+be added last, as it discolors the sauce if stirred up in it.
+
+
+ENTREES OF SWEETBREADS.
+
+_Sweetbreads a la Supreme._--Take two plump sweetbreads, lay them an
+hour in strong salt and water, then boil them for ten minutes in fresh
+water; put them between two plates to flatten till cold. Cut off all the
+gristle and loose skin from underneath; put them to stew _very gently_
+in half a pint of good-flavored stock. Take them up, drain well, and
+stew them in half a pint of sauce supreme, with a dozen small mushrooms,
+for ten minutes.
+
+_Sweetbreads with Oysters._--Prepare the sweetbreads as in the foregoing
+recipe, quarter them, and put them in a stewpan with a gill of white
+stock, the strained liquor from two dozen oysters, a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and a suspicion of nutmeg. Put two ounces of
+butter in a stewpan over the fire, stir into it one tablespoonful of
+fine flour; let them bubble together, stirring the while, one minute.
+When the sweetbreads have been simmering twenty minutes, pour the gravy
+from them to the sauce; stir quickly till smooth. If thicker than very
+thick cream, add a little more stock. In five minutes add the oysters.
+Keep _at boiling-point_, but not boiling, till the oysters are firm and
+plump. Do not leave them in the sauce a minute beyond this, or they will
+begin to shrink. Take them and the sweetbreads up, and if the sauce is
+too thin to bear a wineglass of cream, boil it rapidly down till _very
+thick_; then skim, and just before pouring over the sweetbreads stir in
+a wineglass of thick cream. If it goes in earlier it may curdle.
+
+It has been explained before, but I repeat it here, that there must
+never be too much sauce, however good, to any dish, and that the
+consistency is most important: it must be thick enough to mask a spoon,
+yet run from it freely. Nothing can be worse than a dab of white mush
+being served as sauce, unless it be a quantity of thin, milky soup
+floating on every plate. This is where the happy medium must be struck.
+It is perfectly easy to give exact proportions to produce certain
+degrees of thickness, and this has been done in the chapters on sauces;
+but where these sauces are used as a medium in which to cook, for
+instance, sweetbreads, a certain amount of liquid must be added to
+prevent burning. Now it is impossible to say how fast this added liquid
+will diminish if the simmering is as slow as it should be, it may lose
+hardly at all, in which case the articles stewed must be taken out, and
+a few minutes' hard boiling given to evaporate the liquid and bring the
+sauce back to the proper point.
+
+_Sweetbreads in Cases._--Prepare two sweetbreads as directed in the
+foregoing recipes. Put them in a stewpan with a thin slice of fat boiled
+ham, half a carrot, half a turnip, and a small onion, all cut small, and
+laid as a bed under the sweetbreads; put in a gill of broth, a bouquet
+of herbs, and half a saltspoonful of salt, with a pinch of pepper. Let
+them stew, closely covered, one hour, turning them after the first
+half-hour. When done, take them up and drain them. When cold, cover with
+thick d'Uxelles sauce; sprinkle thickly with very fine bread crumbs.
+Make two rough paper cases, butter each liberally, and very carefully
+lay each sweetbread in one, crumbed side uppermost. Put them in a quick
+oven till pale brown. Have ready proper sweetbread cases, slip them
+neatly into them, and serve.
+
+These are excellent cold, in which event they should not be shifted from
+the rough case until ready to serve.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[101-*] For recipe, see No. V.
+
+
+
+
+XII.
+
+ON THE MANNER OF PREPARING CROQUETTES, CUTLETS, KROMESKIES, RISSOLES,
+AND CIGARETTES.
+
+
+Although these ever-popular dishes are all or may all be prepared from
+one mixture, there is a difference in the manner of using it which I
+will here explain.
+
+_Croquettes_ are made from a soft creamy mixture chilled on ice till
+firm enough to mould, then simply dipped into egg and crumbs and fried
+in very hot fat.
+
+_Cutlets_ are the same (of course fancy cutlets are meant, not the
+French chops, so called), only they are shaped to imitate a real cutlet,
+with a little bone inserted; or, in the case of lobster cutlets, a small
+claw is used to simulate the chop bone. Many only stick a sprig of
+parsley where the bone should be, to keep up the fiction.
+
+_Kromeskies_ are rolls of the same mixture enveloped in very thin
+slices (hardly thicker than paper) of fat larding pork; a small
+toothpick holds the pork in place. The rolls are then egged, crumbed,
+and fried.
+
+_Rissoles_ are the same thing, only rather easier to prepare, being
+rolled in very thin pastry instead of pork.
+
+_Cigarettes_, the newest variation of the favorite entree, and most
+dainty of them all in appearance, are thin rolls of croquette mixture
+(or, better still, quenelle meat) not thicker than a small cigar. These
+are rolled in pastry, thoroughly deadened, pinched very securely, and
+fried a very pale brown.
+
+As the manner of making the mixture is about the same for all kinds of
+meats, fish, or game, varying only in flavor--a little wine, a little
+onion, or sweet herbs taking the place of the mushrooms in some cases--I
+will give exact directions for making sweetbread cutlets; chicken, game,
+or fish may be substituted for the sweetbreads, naming them accordingly.
+The ham may always be omitted where the flavor is objected to. For
+those who like it, it adds very much to sweetbreads, but would be out of
+place with game, which should depend on its own individual flavor.
+
+_Cutlets of Sweetbreads._--Soak a pair of sweetbreads in salt and water
+for an hour--longer if there is much blood about them; then cook them
+half an hour in stock. Drain them and let them get cold. Trim off all
+superfluous fat and gristle; chop them with one ounce of lean boiled ham
+to each pair of large sweetbreads, and half a can of mushrooms, a small
+teaspoonful of salt, the sixth of one of pepper. Put an ounce of flour
+in a small thick saucepan with an ounce of butter; stir them together
+over the fire until they bubble; then add a half-pint of liquid
+consisting of a gill of stiff jellied stock and a gill of thick cream;
+stir till they boil and form a smooth sauce; mix the sweetbread mixture
+with the sauce.
+
+The mixture should be a soft, creamy mass, not in any way so stiff as
+sausage-meat, or so as to remain in a heap without spreading; when
+poured on a plate, it should be of a consistency that will _slowly_
+settle, yet there must not be any liquid whatever. On this question of
+consistency depends the quality of the croquettes, cutlets, etc., made
+from it. If too stiff, they will be dry and only a superior sort of hash
+ball. What you have to aim at is a croquette or cutlet that will ooze
+out of the thin shell of egg and crumb when pressed with a fork. Success
+in attaining this can always be secured by taking care to moisten the
+minced meat with a sauce made of _very stiff jelly_ in the proportion of
+half a pint of liquid (the melted jelly and cream) and one ounce each of
+flour and butter. This will mix a pint of sweetbread and mushrooms, or
+rather less of dry meat, such as the breast of chicken, veal, etc.
+
+I dwell on this point because this class of entrees is always popular,
+and if the consistency is once well understood, success is certain to
+follow.
+
+When the mixture is poured into shallow dishes or plates, a piece of
+buttered paper should be laid over them, and then they should be placed
+on ice until quite firm. When ready, cut small pieces of the mixture,
+make them into shapes as nearly resembling a French chop as you can,
+using a very little cracker meal should they stick to your hands. Have
+before you a large dish of cracker meal and the yolks of two eggs beaten
+with two small tablespoonfuls of water, cover each cutlet thoroughly
+with egg, then with meal, gently patting them to make the meal adhere;
+insert anything you please to represent the bone (turkey ribs may be
+boiled white and kept for this purpose). Cutlets require to be dropped
+into very hot fat, and taken up within two minutes. Consult directions
+for frying in former chapter.
+
+Sweetbread croquettes are simply made into cork or pear shapes, never
+large, instead of cutlets. When the white meat of chicken replaces half
+the sweetbread, they are called Cutlets, or Croquettes, a la Reine.
+
+Make no attempt to mould croquettes or cutlets until the mixture is firm
+enough to cut; then handle very quickly, make into proper forms, finish
+them either as cutlets or what you wish, and let them remain in a cold
+place for an hour or two before cooking; this last direction may not be
+always possible, and to an expert is not necessary, but when time can be
+given the amateur should always plan to do it.
+
+But though in experienced hands it is possible (though not so easy) to
+make croquettes and fry them as soon as breaded, do not be led to
+believe that you can dispense with putting the mixture on the ice the
+first time. I remember a young lady who was very proud of her croquettes
+telling me she never found it necessary to chill the mixture; she could
+secure perfect shape without. I asked to see the process, and decided in
+my own mind that she must go widely from the directions, and have her
+material as stiff as hash; but I found she solved the difficulty in a
+different way: she simply worked in quantities of cracker meal, using it
+like flour. Of course the croquettes were spoiled, although it was true
+they kept their shape, and I do not think the young lady realized at all
+that she was changing and impoverishing the preparation altogether.
+
+_Braised Sweetbreads._--Take a pair of sweetbreads, lay in salt and
+water for an hour, then blanch. Press slightly between two dishes; when
+cold, remove all skin, fat, and gristle; cut up very fine a small
+carrot, a turnip, and an onion; put them in a stewpan with the
+sweetbreads, pour over them a pint of stock, lay a piece of buttered
+paper over them, and braise carefully for half an hour. Take them out of
+the stewpan, put them in a small meat-pan, boil the liquor rapidly a
+couple of minutes, then baste the sweetbreads with it several times; put
+them in a quick oven to brown; serve on slices of fried bread, pour half
+a pint of Spanish sauce round, and garnish with mushrooms.
+
+_Tartlettes of Chicken._--Cut six ounces of the breast of a cooked
+chicken into very small pieces, chop up one truffle, twelve mushrooms,
+and two ounces of lean boiled ham; stir them into a gill of white sauce.
+Butter thickly nine dariole moulds, line them neatly with quenelle
+meat,[114-*] of which you will require half a pound, fill the centre
+carefully with the mixed chicken, cover the top carefully with quenelle
+meat, and steam for twenty minutes; dish on a circle of spinach, pour
+bechamel sauce over and round, fill the centre of the dish with peas or
+mixed vegetables.
+
+_Chicken a la Hollandaise._--Take out the breast-bone of a large _young_
+fowl, and fill the space with the following force-meat: half a pint of
+fine bread-crumbs, an ounce and a half of butter, a small boiled onion
+chopped, and a dozen oysters cut into small pieces; a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper; bind together with an egg, sew up the fowl,
+and truss for roasting. Make a nice batter, as for fine fritters, and
+when the fowl has been in the oven half an hour, pour part of the batter
+over it; when dry and beginning to brown, pour more, until it is thickly
+coated and a nice brown; baste often; cut up the chicken, and serve with
+Allemande sauce and lemon.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[114-*] See directions in No. IV.
+
+
+
+
+XIII.
+
+PATTIES.
+
+
+The directions for making one kind will serve for patties generally. In
+cities the cases are very easily bought, but where they have to be made
+at home, only one who is already an expert in making puff-paste should
+attempt them.
+
+Patties when served as an entree should be quite small, or half of them
+will certainly be left on the plates.
+
+Roll puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick for each patty, cut three
+circles from it, moisten the surface of two very slightly with water,
+place one on the other, then with a sharp penknife cut a circle nearly
+through the third round, leaving a margin of one third of an inch; lay
+this round carefully on the other two; brush the top with white of egg
+(be sure not to touch the sides), and bake in a very quick oven. Patties
+must be watched, and turned if they show signs of rising unevenly. When
+they are a fine yellow-brown take them out, and leave five minutes for
+them to cool slightly, then with a penknife or a boning-knife carefully
+remove the top formed by the smaller circle you marked, and which (if
+the paste was very light and the oven in good condition) will probably
+have risen out of the centre. Be careful in handling these covers, for
+while warm they are very brittle. With a coffee-spoon remove the
+half-cooked dough from the centre of the patty, taking care, however, to
+leave sufficient thickness of inner crust to prevent the sauce from
+oozing through.
+
+The filling for patties can be made before it is needed; but when that
+is done, it must be made quite hot before it is put into the cases, as,
+if it were put in cold, the pastry would burn before the inside became
+warm.
+
+_Dresden Patty Cases._--These make a very pretty kind of patty when
+puff-paste is not to be had, and even when it is are a desirable
+variety. They are made from fine light baker's bread. Cut slices an inch
+and a half thick, then with a biscuit cutter about two inches in
+diameter cut circles from these slices, and with another cutter, a size
+smaller, press half-way through each. You will now have pieces of bread
+the size and shape of patties. Beat four eggs; mix with a pint of milk
+and a saltspoonful of salt; pour this into a shallow pan, and stand the
+bread patties in it. The amount of milk and eggs must of course depend
+on the number of patties; the proportion named is enough for six small
+ones. The patties must remain steeping until they are thoroughly soaked;
+they must be carefully turned upside down when the lower part is
+sufficiently steeped. The time required will depend on the quality of
+the bread, but one hour will generally suffice. The bread must be
+thoroughly penetrated by the custard, be almost as moist as mush, yet
+be in no danger (with careful handling) of breaking. When sufficiently
+steeped, take each one on a cake turner and lay it on a drainer. (They
+may be prepared some hours before they are needed for cooking.) When
+quite drained, baste each one carefully with beaten egg till every part
+is coated, then smother it in cracker meal. Gently pat it to make it
+adhere, then slip the patty on to a dish till you are ready to fry. Do
+not attempt to move the patties with the hand or a spoon, but with a
+flat skimmer or cake turner.
+
+When prepared as directed, make three pounds of lard _very hot_ in a
+deep frying-kettle,[119-*] place three of the patties on a fine wire
+frying-basket, and fry brown. The fat should be excessively hot, as the
+patties, being full of cold custard, will not burn, and will rapidly
+cool it. They should be a delicate brown in six or seven minutes. Let
+the fat come back to the original intense heat before putting in the
+other patties. When they are fried, remove the centre you marked with
+the smaller cutter with a sharp thin knife and small teaspoon, leaving
+the sides about half an inch thick. They are now ready to fill. If the
+patties are just right, the inside you remove should be of a
+custard-like texture, _not_ like sopped bread: indeed, in eating them,
+the bread should not be easily detected. These patties are very
+delicious filled with any of the usual fillings, or, for dessert, with
+stiff preserve. They have no covers, consequently the filling should be
+piled high without allowing the sauce to run over, and garnished with
+parsley or water-cress.
+
+_Sweetbread Patties._--Soak two very white sweetbreads in salt and water
+one hour; parboil for twenty minutes; then let them cool; remove the
+skin, fat, and gristle; cut them into half-inch dice, and lay them aside
+while you prepare the following sauce: Put a gill of strong white stock
+into a small saucepan with a gill of mushroom liquor (and a dozen small
+mushrooms cut in four if approved) to boil. In another saucepan cook an
+ounce of flour and one of butter together, stirring till they bubble;
+pour the two gills of stock quickly to it, and stir till smooth. Season
+with half a teaspoonful of salt and very little pepper; lay in the
+sweetbreads, and let them stew twenty minutes. Strain them off from the
+sauce, which boil down (stirring constantly to prevent burning) till
+very thick; then add a gill of thick fresh cream. The sauce should now
+be thick enough to mask the spoon _very heavily_; pour it over the
+sweetbreads, and stir together. This is now ready for filling the
+patties. If mushrooms are not liked they may be omitted, the liquor
+replaced by a gill of stock and a teaspoonful of white wine.
+
+_Oyster Patties._--Take a dozen and a half Blue Points, scald them in
+their own liquor, but do not leave them a moment after they reach the
+boiling-point; strain the liquor from them; cut each oyster in four. Put
+a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter into a small saucepan over
+the fire, stir them together until they bubble; then pour to them half a
+pint of the strained liquor of the oysters, or part liquor and part
+stock. Stir continually, and let the sauce boil very thick; then lay in
+the oysters, and simmer half a minute. The amount of seasoning required
+will depend on the saltness of the oysters, but a saltspoonful of salt
+will probably not be too much, a little pepper, and a teaspoonful of
+essence of anchovies--just enough to make the sauce a delicate
+salmon-color. For the last thing, stir in one small teaspoonful of lemon
+juice. The consistency of the sauce for all patties should be that of
+very thick double cream. When it is not thick enough, it can always be
+reduced by boiling down, taking care not to boil the meat or oysters,
+etc., in it.
+
+_Chicken Patties._--Take the breast of a boiled chicken, cut it into
+dice; use half a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled to make the
+sauce. Put this broth in a small saucepan with a teaspoonful of lean
+boiled ham chopped a little (take care there is not a particle of the
+outside of the ham, or it may impart a smoky flavor); let the ham simmer
+in the broth while you melt together a tablespoonful of flour and one of
+butter; when they bubble, and the broth has been boiled down to about
+one half, _strain_ the latter into a half-pint measure, fill up with
+cream, and stir this quickly to the flour and butter. When the sauce is
+thick and smooth, put in the chicken; keep the mixture at boiling-point
+five minutes, then set the saucepan in another of boiling water, and
+stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs; only just let them thicken; then
+remove from the fire, and use for filling the patty cases. A teaspoonful
+of sherry is often added to the sauce. If this filling is not used while
+hot, it must be reheated in a double boiler and watched, or the eggs
+will curdle; or the filling may be prepared and the eggs added after it
+is reheated.
+
+_Bouchees_ of any kind are simply patties made very small indeed--for
+this reason the filling is always _chopped_ instead of being cut into
+dice.
+
+The essence of anchovy mentioned is a most useful sauce for fish, and
+can be bought at any large grocery.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[119-*] See full directions for frying in No. X.
+
+
+
+
+XIV.
+
+ENTREES.
+
+
+In an earlier chapter I gave directions for quenelles as an adjunct to
+soups and for garnishing. Used in this way, they are only a revival of
+an old French fashion, coarsely imitated in the benighted days of
+Anglo-Saxon cookery by the English "force-meat balls." Lately, however,
+not only are quenelles a great feature in high-class cookery as
+additions to made dishes, but they are a most fashionable and delicious
+entree, and replace with great advantage the too-frequent croquette.
+
+To prepare quenelle meat for entrees.
+
+_Mode No. 1._--To make quenelle meat, a mortar is indispensable, as it
+must be pounded to a pulp that will go through a sieve, and I have known
+a persevering woman grate the breast of chicken on a large grater, but
+this is very slow work. Take the white meat from a large, young,
+uncooked chicken, and remove all skin, fat, and sinew. Melt together
+over the fire a scant tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; when
+they are thick and smooth, stir in a gill of boiling water quickly. This
+should now be a thick paste; put it away to cool. Take half as much
+butter as you have of chicken, and half the quantity of paste
+(technically called panada) that you have of butter. Put the paste into
+a mortar; pound it well; add the butter; pound again till smooth; add
+the chicken, cut up very small, and pound until the whole forms a smooth
+pulp. Add one whole egg and the yolks of three, the third of a
+saltspoonful of white pepper (salt must depend on whether the butter
+seasons sufficiently). Work all well together, stir in half a gill of
+thick cream, and pass the whole through a wire sieve. Put the whole on
+ice to get firm. The quenelles should be about the size of a small egg
+flattened; shape with two tablespoons dipped in flour. Have ready a
+frying-pan with boiling water in which is a saltspoonful of salt, lay
+each quenelle carefully in, and poach for ten minutes. The water must
+boil very gently. Drain on a sieve; serve with mushroom or tomato sauce.
+Have a little dried parsley and grated tongue or ham, and scatter
+alternately on each quenelle.
+
+_Mode No. 2._--One pound of lean veal cutlet; pound it thoroughly in a
+mortar; then rub it through a sieve, or it may be forced (_after_ it is
+pounded) through a vegetable strainer. Steep a pound of bread crumb in
+tepid water; wring it in a cloth to get rid of the moisture; put it in a
+stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter and a pinch of salt. Stir it over
+the fire until it ceases to stick to the pan and forms a smooth paste.
+Place it between two plates to cool. This is called bread panada. Put
+into a mortar twelve ounces of the prepared veal, six ounces of fresh
+butter, and eight ounces of the panada. Pound all well together; mix in
+gradually one whole egg, two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and the
+yolks of four more eggs, a scant teaspoonful of salt, and a
+quarter-saltspoonful of pepper. When this is all pounded into a smooth,
+compact mass, put it into a bowl and place it on ice until required for
+use. Mould and poach as described in last recipe.
+
+Great care is required in cooking quenelles, as if they are overdone
+they become tough; ten minutes is enough for those the size of a small
+egg. Before moulding the whole, poach a small one, break it open, and
+ascertain if it is smooth, light, yet firm. They should melt in the
+mouth. If they are at all tough, add a little more cream to the mixture,
+unless the toughness comes from over-boiling, which you must guard
+against. Very elaborate quenelles are made with a core of dark meat,
+made by chopping up ham, tongue, or truffles very fine, and inserting
+it in the centre while forming the quenelles. Always serve quenelles
+with tomato, mushroom, or rich Spanish sauce. Dish in a circle, and fill
+the centre with spinach, green peas, or a macedoine of mixed vegetables.
+
+The mode of preparing all quenelles is by one of the two methods just
+given, but they may be made of any kind of game, or the backs of hares
+or rabbits. Quenelles of salmon, lobster, or other fish must of course
+be served with appropriate fish sauce.
+
+_Timbale of Chicken a la Champenois._--Chop a small slice of lean boiled
+ham, weighing about two ounces, put into a saucepan with four chopped
+mushrooms, four truffles, and an ounce of butter; stir in a moderate
+dessertspoonful of corn-starch and half a pint of stock and a gill of
+sherry; let this slowly simmer until reduced to one half. Skim off the
+fat, then stir in the finely chopped breast of a large chicken or of two
+small ones, six small pickled gherkins, a sprig of parsley, and six
+anchovies which have been soaked in milk. Make all hot over a slow fire,
+but do not let them boil. Line a mould with light puff-paste, pour the
+mixture into it, and bake one hour; turn out and serve very hot. Garnish
+with fried parsley.
+
+_Scallops of Chicken a la Perigord._--This dish may conveniently be made
+when the white meat of chicken is required for other purposes.
+
+Bone the legs of two large chickens; take half a pound of veal, a
+quarter of a pound of fat salt pork; pound both in a mortar, then pass
+through a sieve; add to this two tablespoonfuls of minced tongue, six
+truffles, and half a dozen button mushrooms, the yolks of two eggs, a
+saltspoonful of salt, and a _very little_ cayenne. Mix well. Stuff the
+legs of the fowls with this. Sewing them up neatly, wrap each up in
+buttered paper; put them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a
+carrot, turnip, and small onion cut up; add three quarters of a pint of
+brown stock. Put the stewpan in the oven, baste well, and cook gently
+one hour. When cooked, have ready a mound of spinach. Take a _very
+sharp_ knife, cut the legs in slices so as to make circles like slices
+of sausage; strain off the gravy. Cook together a dessertspoonful of
+butter and flour; when they bubble, pour the strained gravy to it, with
+a gill of sherry and a little salt and pepper; stir till smooth; boil
+till as thick as cream. Dress the scallops of chicken in a circle round
+the spinach, pour the sauce round all, and insert bits of truffle and of
+tongue between the scallops.
+
+_Chicken Souffle._--Pound three ounces of the white meat of cooked
+chicken as fine as possible; mix with it half a pint of cream and three
+well beaten eggs, a few button mushrooms finely chopped, a saltspoonful
+of salt, a sixth of one of pepper, a dust of cayenne, and a speck of
+powdered mace. Pour the mixture in a well-buttered mould, tie a cloth
+over it, and steam it half an hour. It must stand quite upright in the
+steamer. Turn out on a hot dish, and pour any rich brown sauce preferred
+around it. This souffle may be made of sweetbreads, or half and half. If
+individual souffles are preferred, butter as many dariole moulds as the
+mixture will fill; lay at the bottom of each something by way of
+garnish--a little star or disk of tongue or ham for some, of truffle for
+others, of green gherkin for others--so that when turned out the top of
+the souffles will show spots of color. Half fill the moulds, and steam
+twenty minutes.
+
+Souffles of all kinds depend for excellence on being served the moment
+they are ready, and on the steam being kept up all the time they are
+cooking. When baked the oven must be very steady.
+
+_Fritot of Chicken._--Take a cold chicken, cut it into small neat
+joints, season rather highly with salt and pepper, strew over them a
+small grated onion (or one very finely chopped), and a dessertspoonful
+of chopped parsley. Cover them with oil, and then squeeze over them the
+juice of a lemon. Turn the pieces now and then, and let them remain
+until they have absorbed the flavor. Meanwhile make a batter of four
+tablespoonfuls of flour and about eight of milk, or as much as will make
+a thick smooth batter; stir into it a wineglass of brandy and an egg,
+the whole beaten to a high froth. Leave this batter in a warm place an
+hour before using, dip the pieces of chicken into it, and fry in very
+hot, deep fat. Serve piled high on a dish garnished with fried parsley.
+
+
+
+
+XV.
+
+ENTREES.--_Continued._
+
+
+_Cigarettes a la Reine._--These are the newest development of the
+rissole and croquette. They require strict attention to details to
+secure perfect form. Roll puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick; prick
+it all over--this is to deaden it; roll it now till it is no thicker
+than cartridge-paper. Cut it with a sharp knife dipped in flour into
+strips about two inches and a half wide and about the length of a cigar;
+lay on each strip a roll of chicken quenelle meat that is very firm, and
+the roll not thicker than a lady's slender forefinger; be careful that
+the meat reaches nearly the whole length of the paste, yet leaves a
+margin for closing, as the least oozing will spoil the appearance.
+Moisten the edges of the paste all round with white of egg; fold the
+paste over half an inch; be very careful to see that it adheres
+thoroughly; then pinch the ends. Roll them gently with a cool hand on
+the floured board to round them without pressure, taper off the ends
+cigar fashion. If they are softening, lay them on a floured plate on ice
+to get firm; then roll them in egg and very finely sifted cracker meal.
+You may roll or improve the shape, if there is any irregularity, while
+crumbing them. Remember what you aim to imitate is a cigar. The great
+danger for the first time is getting them too large; they must therefore
+be very slender. Fry in deep fat just as rissoles; serve on a napkin,
+log-house fashion. These dainties, as will have been seen, have a large
+amount of butter, and soften in a warm room; they must therefore be made
+in a cold room, and if set on ice some hours before cooking will be much
+easier to fry without bending or twisting.
+
+_Cigarettes a la Chasseur_ are, as the name indicates, made of game, in
+exactly the same way as the last recipe.
+
+_Lobster Quenelles._--Prepare with bread panada as directed for quenelle
+meat. Poach and drain them. Then dish in a circle with thick Hollandaise
+sauce in the centre and round them.
+
+_Chicken, Turtle Fashion._--This requires a pullet or young hen about
+six months old. Bone the bird; stuff with a force-meat made of four
+parts minced veal, two parts chopped hard eggs, a half part lean boiled
+ham, two parts mushrooms, and two parts _pate de foie gras_. First make
+the veal and ham hot in a little butter, then add the mushrooms and
+_foie gras_; moisten with stock or mushroom liquor, and _gently simmer_
+five minutes. Stir in two beaten yolks of eggs and a teaspoonful of
+lemon juice. Season with a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of white
+pepper, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg, grated. Stuff the fowl with this
+mixture; sew it up with trussing-needle and string; turn the skin of the
+neck half over the head, and cut off part of the comb, which gives the
+appearance of the turtle's head. Scald and skin four chickens' feet;
+cut off the claws, and insert two where the wings ought to be and two in
+the thighs, so as to look like turtles' feet. Put in a stewpan a
+tablespoonful of chopped boiled ham, an onion, and a small carrot cut
+up, with a tablespoonful of butter; let them brown very slightly, add
+half a pint of stock, skim it, lay the fowl in this stock, and stew
+gently for an hour and a half to two hours, or even longer, according to
+size. When quite tender take up the fowl, cut and remove the string with
+which it is sewn, lay it on its back on a dish, garnish the breast with
+sliced truffles cut in fancy shapes, place a crawfish tail to represent
+the turtle's tail. When eaten hot serve veloute sauce. This is an
+excellent dish cold garnished with aspic.
+
+_Baked Ravioli._--Four ounces of veal, six ounces of butter, three
+ounces of lean sausage-meat, a teaspoonful of mixed sweet herbs, a
+little salt and pepper. Pound all in a mortar; when smooth, pound
+separately a gill of spinach that has been boiled till just tender
+without losing color, and a quarter of a pound of cream cheese or rich
+cottage cheese, which must be squeezed in a cloth to remove all the
+milk. When smooth, pound all together, and stir in the yolks of two
+eggs. Make some pastry with half a pound of butter, three quarters of a
+pound of flour, and the yolks of two eggs; mix stiff, and roll till
+about as thick as a fifty-cent piece. Cut the paste in two parts. Take a
+medium-sized biscuit-cutter, mark half as many circles on one half the
+paste as you wish ravioli. Lay in the centre of each circle a mound of
+the force-meat--perhaps a large teaspoonful, only be careful to leave a
+quarter-inch margin all round. Moisten this margin with a camel's-hair
+brush dipped in white of egg; lay the second half of the pastry over
+these mounds; press the cutter on each to trim them, and you have a
+number of little round patties; press the edges together very well by
+curving the little finger round them. Have some rich stock boiling in a
+stewpan; poach the ravioli five minutes. Take them up, drain them well,
+arrange them in a fire-proof gratin dish, sprinkle them over with grated
+Parmesan cheese, pour in a very little stock, and bake brown in the
+oven.
+
+_Veal Cutlets a la Primrose._--Take a pound of veal cutlet; cut it up
+into small cutlets the size of a dollar, and perfectly round. Put two
+ounces of butter (which has been first melted to let the curd separate)
+into a saucepan, with three onions, two ounces of bacon cut into small
+dice, a bouquet of herbs (including bay-leaf). Fry, stirring frequently,
+for a quarter of an hour, then add a tablespoonful of corn-starch, a
+dessertspoonful of Tarragon vinegar, and a pint of strong stock. Let all
+simmer very gently for about one hour. Take up the cutlets, strain the
+gravy and pour it over them, then sprinkle with a tablespoonful of
+grated tongue, and the same quantity of parsley dried and crumbled
+small. Chicken may also be cooked in this way.
+
+_Quails a la Lucullus._--This, as its name implies, is a most expensive
+and luxurious way of serving these dainty birds, yet by management the
+livers of chickens may be saved a day or two by scalding them, and the
+opportunity taken when several are required for general use during a
+week. Bone very carefully six or eight quails. Cut up three ounces of
+unsmoked bacon, put it in a saute pan, let it cook five minutes, then
+add the livers, a shallot sliced, a small bouquet, twelve white
+peppercorns, six cloves, a saltspoonful of salt. Let all cook carefully
+ten minutes: nothing must burn or get very brown. When cooked, pound
+well in a mortar, pass through a sieve, then add three truffles chopped;
+stuff each quail into shape, butter some paper cases known as "quail
+cases," put a quail into each case, a few drops of olive oil on each
+breast. Then put them in a quick oven for ten minutes or a quarter of an
+hour. For the gravy, put the bones of the quails in a stewpan, add a
+tablespoonful of glaze and a gill of brown sauce, with one
+tablespoonful of water. Simmer till the gravy is well flavored from the
+bones, then strain, and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped truffles and
+half a gill of sherry. Put one tablespoonful of this sauce over each
+quail before sending it to the table, after very carefully draining all
+grease from the quails. These are served in the papers, but rough paper
+cases may be made to bake them in, and the regular crimped ones set in
+the oven to get hot just before dishing up. Slip the quails into them
+after draining.
+
+_Quails a la Jubilee._--Bone as many birds as required. Lard them with
+pork and thin strips of truffles. Stuff them in shape with equal parts
+of sweetbreads and oysters, sew them up; roll them in buttered paper,
+and cook in the oven in enough Chablis to cover them. Pound some boiled
+potatoes and water-cresses together until thoroughly blended; put a
+tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan with one of milk; put in the
+potato, stir round till quite hot; use this to make a border on which
+to serve the quails. When they have cooked fifteen to twenty minutes,
+take them up, glaze them (melt glaze in a cup standing in hot water, and
+brush them over). Lay them on the potato border, and pour into the
+centre some Spanish sauce with mushrooms in which has been boiled a
+slice of lemon.
+
+
+
+
+XVI.
+
+ENTREES.--_Continued._
+
+
+_Pigeon Cutlets._--Take half a dozen young pigeons, split them down the
+back, and bone them, all but the leg, cutting off the wings at the
+second joint. Cut each bird in two down the breast; trim off all ragged
+edges, so that each half-bird has as much as possible the appearance of
+a cutlet, the leg serving for the bone. Saute these cutlets, having
+seasoned them with pepper and salt, for three minutes in hot butter,
+then put them in the oven for five minutes. When done, press between two
+plates till cold. Then mask each cutlet with a thick puree of tomatoes
+and mushrooms in which aspic jelly has been mixed, equal parts of each.
+Let them be put on ice to stiffen the masking. Roll in fine cracker
+meal, then dip into well-beaten egg, again into the meal, and then
+place them in a saute pan with very hot clarified butter, and cook them
+a fine golden brown. Dish up on a border of mashed potatoes browned with
+grated Parmesan; serve mushrooms in the centre and Spanish sauce all
+round.
+
+_Pigeons a la Tartare._--The pigeons should be trussed for broiling;
+flatten well with a rolling-pin without breaking the skin, season them
+with pepper and salt, dip into clarified butter and cover with very fine
+crumbs or cracker meal. Broil them carefully, turning often. Make a
+sauce of a scant tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, a shallot, two
+spoonfuls of pickled gherkins, and a boned anchovy. Mince all finely and
+separately. Squeeze over them the juice of a lemon; add half a
+tablespoonful of water and six of oil, and a little pepper. Mix all very
+well, and just before serving rub in a teaspoonful of dry mustard. Put
+the sauce into the dish, lay the pigeons over, and serve.
+
+_Compote of Pigeons._--For any dish of pigeons except roast or broiled,
+wild birds may be used in place of tame. Their flavor is far finer, and
+if not perfectly young, which is the main objection to the use of wild
+birds, the preparation remedies the defect. Cut four ounces of lean
+unsmoked bacon into pieces, and fry five minutes. Split the pigeons in
+half, skewer each half as neatly as possible with tiny skewers, so that
+they will not sprawl when dished; flour and season them lightly, and fry
+a nice brown on both sides; add one small carrot, one small turnip, two
+sticks of celery, one shallot, six mushrooms--all cut small; add a
+_bouquet garni_ and three gills of rich stock; let them all simmer very
+slowly in a stewpan for one hour, or longer if the birds are not young.
+Simmer together a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter; pepper and
+salt (quantities depend on whether the stock be seasoned); stir
+constantly, and when they begin to change color pour a gill of brown
+stock to it, stirring well; remove from the fire. Take up the pigeons,
+strain the gravy, then stir in the brown thickening you have made; boil
+up, skim off all fat, then return the birds; let them get thoroughly
+hot, but not boil. Serve on a border of mashed potatoes, pour the gravy
+round and over them, and fill the centre with peas or spinach.
+
+_Souffle of Partridges._--Clean and cook two partridges; remove the
+breasts and best of the other flesh without skin or sinew. Take two
+ounces of rice cooked till very tender, pound them together in a mortar
+with one ounce of butter and a gill and a half of glaze melted, a
+teaspoonful of salt, and a sixth of pepper. Pound until the whole can be
+forced through a strainer, then add the beaten yolks of four eggs, and
+last of all the whites of two beaten till they will not slip from the
+dish; stir them very lightly into the mixture. Pour it into a silver
+souffle case, or into a number of the small china cases. Bake till it
+rises, and then serve immediately with a tureen of rich brown sauce.
+This souffle can be made of any kind of cold bird or fish. The four eggs
+are given for _medium_-sized partridges.
+
+_Salmis of Snipe._--Clean and roast lightly six snipe, saving the trail.
+When done let them get cold, then cut them up and remove the skin, and
+lay them in a buttered stewpan; pound the trimmings and bones in a
+mortar, and put them into a stewpan with two shallots, a clove, a
+bouquet of herbs, and half a pint of claret; let this simmer until
+reduced to one half. Then add three quarters of a pint of Spanish sauce.
+Let these _very gently simmer_ for half an hour, skimming frequently;
+strain through a fine sieve, and return to the stewpan. If it is not
+thick enough to coat the spoon, reduce a little more. Pour this sauce
+over the snipe in the saute pan, and let it get hot without boiling;
+pile the pieces in a pyramid; meanwhile chop the trail, mix with half
+the quantity of _pate de foie gras_ and a little salt and pepper;
+spread this on croutons, bake, and use them to garnish the snipe.
+
+_Fillets of Teal with Anchovies._--Remove the breasts from a pair of
+teal after they have been three parts roasted. Take care to preserve
+each half breast in good shape. Lay these fillets seasoned in a china
+fire-proof dish which has been well buttered and strewed with grated
+Parmesan; split two anchovies, remove the bone. Wash and dry the four
+halves, lay one on each fillet of teal, moisten with a gill of fish
+stock, sprinkle with bread crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, lay small
+pieces of butter over, and bake in the oven fifteen minutes. The last
+thing before serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over all.
+
+Rabbits are so little cared for in this country that it may seem useless
+to give recipes for using them. There are probably two reasons for the
+low estimate in which rabbit is held here. One, that as they are offered
+in market they are skinny, miserable animals. Yet there are parts of
+the country where they attain a good size, and a fine plump rabbit may
+compare favorably with fowl for many purposes. Indeed, English epicures
+use it in preference for mulligatawny. The second reason, and probably
+the one that is the real reason, for the difference in taste is because,
+being so lightly esteemed, no care is ever given to the preparation of
+them.
+
+On the chance that some reader may feel inclined to test the
+possibilities of the native rabbit, and its claims to a place in choice
+cookery, I give two or three recipes, each admirable in its way. Rabbits
+should be used quite fresh, and cleaned and wiped dry as soon after they
+are killed as possible.
+
+_Grenadines of Rabbit a la Soubise._--Take the whole backs of two
+rabbits from the shoulders to the thighs, both of which you reject; cut
+away the ribs and the thin part that forms the stomach, leaving only the
+backbone with solid flesh each side; divide this into sections, about
+two joints to each. Lard them, and then braise for one hour. Stand them
+in a circle, and pour over and round them a pint of brown Soubise sauce.
+
+_Fillets of Rabbit with Cucumber._--Half roast a rabbit, then remove the
+solid flesh from each side the backbone in long fillets. Cut two
+cucumbers and one Bermuda onion in thin slices, salt them, and let them
+drain. Lard the fillets of rabbit, season them, and lay them in a
+stewpan, with a pint of white sauce slightly thinned with white stock,
+the cucumber, and the onion. Let them simmer for half an hour. Lay the
+fillets in a circle, and put the cucumber and onion in the centre, the
+sauce, which should be thick enough to mask them, over the fillets.
+Fried sippets garnish this dish.
+
+_A Civet._--For this dish the dark-fleshed rabbit, or hare, as it is
+often called, is best. Cut it into meat joints; cut half a pound of
+unsmoked bacon into slices, and fry in a saucepan; then lay in the hare,
+and saute for fifteen minutes. Pour off the fat. Add half a pint of
+port-wine, a bouquet garni, and a dozen mushrooms, and a little pepper
+and salt; let this simmer gently one hour; then add a pint of brown
+sauce and twenty button onions which have been blanched. Simmer for
+another half-hour. Remove the bouquet, add a gill of stewed and strained
+tomato, half a gill of glaze, and a tablespoonful of Chutney. Serve in a
+pyramid, pour the gravy, after it is well skimmed, over the whole, and
+garnish with fried croutons.
+
+_Timbales d'Epinard._--Make some quenelle meat of chicken or veal
+according to directions already given, and mix with puree of spinach,
+prepared as follows, until it is a nice green; pick and wash some
+spinach, put it into salted boiling water, and boil fast for fifteen
+minutes. Drain and press it, then beat it through a wire sieve; return
+to the saucepan with two ounces of butter; pepper and salt; stir till
+well mixed. Stir a gill of cream to the quenelle meat, then use enough
+of the spinach to give it a fine light-green color. When well mixed,
+butter some dariole moulds; nearly fill them. Then dip your finger in
+cold water and press a hole in the centre of each to the bottom; fill it
+with a puree of ham, and then put a coating of quenelle meat over, and
+steam twenty minutes.
+
+Puree of ham is prepared as follows: pound lean boiled ham in a mortar
+with some stock that has been boiled down to half glaze; rub through a
+wire sieve. If too stiff, moisten with a little more melted glaze.
+
+
+
+
+XVII.
+
+COLD ENTREES, OR CHAUDFROIDS.
+
+
+These elegant dishes are suitable for formal breakfasts, luncheons, and
+suppers, and while presenting an unusually attractive appearance, are
+easier to manage than less elaborate dishes, because they can usually be
+prepared, all but garnishing, the day before.
+
+Although in giving the recipes meat cooked for the purpose will always
+be directed, and for formal purposes no care or expense should be
+spared, the intelligent reader will see where she may make a very pretty
+dish by utilizing cold fowl, game, or lamb for any simple occasion.
+
+_Sweetbreads au Montpellier._--Parboil a pair of fine white sweetbreads,
+after soaking them in salt and water an hour. Let them get cold between
+two plates under slight pressure. Cut them into the form of cutlets
+(cutlet cutters are to be obtained at the fashionable New York hardware
+stores, and at the large French tin-shops down-town). Have some firm
+aspic jelly not quite set; dip each cutlet in it; chop some aspic that
+is hard and cold roughly; form a circle of it; arrange the cutlets on
+this; fill the centre with asparagus heads; pour mayonnaise round, and
+garnish with fancy shapes of aspic, red and white alternately. Red aspic
+is colored with pulp of the red beet stirred into it while liquid and
+then strained out; green is produced by spinach. The various shades of
+amber, shading into rich brown, that are so effective when tastefully
+mingled, are due to caramel coloring. When colored aspic is required for
+garnishing, pour off a little into separate vessels, and color each as
+required.
+
+_Chicken Salad a la Prince._--Cut the white meat of cold fowl into neat
+fillets, using a very sharp knife, so that there may be no ragged edges.
+Mask each piece with a mixture made as follows: One tablespoonful of
+finely minced capers, two of minced boiled ham, three hard-boiled eggs,
+an anchovy boned and washed, and two sardines freed from skin. All these
+must be well pounded, then rubbed through a sieve; add a teaspoonful of
+finely minced tarragon and chives. Stir all into a tablespoonful of
+mayonnaise and one of aspic, semi-fluid of course. When each fillet has
+been well coated with the mixture and has set, line a border mould with
+aspic jelly, ornament the fillets of chicken with little strips of
+beet-root and cucumber arranged like a trellis-work. Place them very
+carefully round the mould on the layer of aspic, then pour in a little
+more aspic, until the border mould is full, and set it on ice. When
+about to serve have a dish well layered with the small leaves of
+lettuce. Drop the mould for one minute in warm water, and turn out on to
+the lettuce. Fill the centre with a salad composed of cucumber cut into
+dice, peas, string-beans cooked until tender (for this purpose the
+canned French string-beans serve admirably, being beautifully cut
+ready). Pour over the centre salad some thick mayonnaise.
+
+Where mayonnaise makes too rich a dish for the digestion, bechamel sauce
+may be substituted for masking, but never for salad; for instance, two
+very simple chaudfroids of chicken may be made as follows:
+
+_Chaudfroid of Chicken_, No. 1.--Cut up a young fleshy chicken into neat
+joints, remove the skin, mask each piece carefully with bechamel sauce;
+when quite set arrange on chopped aspic in a circle, garnish with strips
+of cucumber and beet; cut the remainder of the cucumber and beet into
+neat pieces, and stir into a gill of mayonnaise, and use for the centre.
+This and all salads should be lightly seasoned before the mayonnaise is
+added, or they are apt to taste flat.
+
+_Chaudfroid of Chicken_, No. 2.--Prepare the chicken as in last recipe,
+only before masking the joints season the bechamel well with finely
+chopped tarragon; leave out the mayonnaise and aspic. Pile up the pieces
+of chicken on the entree dish, and garnish with Roman lettuce, or, if
+that is not to be had, the hearts of Boston lettuce.
+
+_Chicken and Ham Cutlets._--Boil a young fowl with a good breast in
+clear stock; take it out, let it get cold; cut the breast into rather
+thin slices. The bones, skin, and trimmings may be thrown back in the
+stock, which can be boiled down to make both the bechamel and aspic for
+the dish (see recipes), or be kept for other purposes. Take the slices
+of chicken and some very well cooked lean ham that is cut so thin you
+can see the knife under the slices. Melt a little bechamel sauce, that
+must be like blanc-mange, pour it on a plate, and before it has time to
+cool cover the plate with the slices of chicken. Dip the ham into the
+stock (if it has been boiled down to jelly, otherwise into melted
+aspic), lay the ham over the chicken, then more thin slices of chicken.
+Now cover the whole by means of a spoon with more bechamel; when all
+this sets, which, as your sauce has only been half melted, it will do
+quickly, you have a large white cake about half an inch thick. Cut this
+cake into small pieces (unless you have a cutlet cutter), as like a
+cutlet in form as possible, using a sharp penknife or boning-knife. Take
+up each carefully, and with the end of a silver knife or small spoon
+cover the edges with the bechamel sauce, which must be nearly set for
+this purpose.
+
+To garnish the cutlets, cut some tiny green leaves from pickled
+gherkins, and red ones from the skin of a red pepper-pod, and place two
+of each in the centre of each cutlet, star-shaped; a touch of white
+sauce will make them stick; place a speck of parsley not larger than a
+pin's head in the centre. Stick a tiny lobster claw three quarters of an
+inch long at the narrow end of the cutlet, and place them in a silver
+dish round some aspic of a bright amber color, chopped. Put a very
+small sprig of parsley between each cutlet.
+
+I may here remind the reader that when aspic or bechamel is used for
+masking or for pouring into a mould as lining, etc., it must _not be
+made hot_, only softened in a bowl set in warm water, just enough to be
+free from lumps. It must, of course, be stirred from the moment it
+begins to soften. The mould to be lined should be turned about till it
+is well coated, and if there is a disposition to run off the sides, roll
+it round in ice. For instance, when the first layer of bechamel is
+poured on the plate as directed in last recipe, it must be moved about
+until quite covered, yet very thinly. If it sets too soon, hold the
+bottom of the plate over steam.
+
+_Reed-birds in Aspic._--Take the back and breast bone from a dozen
+birds, splitting them down the back first. Save the feet. Make a
+force-meat of _pate de foie gras_ and panada in equal proportions;
+season highly, spread the inside of the birds, sew them up as nearly in
+shape as possible; bake seven to ten minutes, then dip them into glaze;
+put a little pale aspic in a dozen dariole moulds, enough to cover the
+bottom a quarter of an inch, and when just set put in a bird breast
+down; set on ice a few minutes, then pour in aspic to cover the bird a
+quarter of an inch. Put on ice. Turn out, and on the top of each strew
+pistachio nuts chopped very fine. Insert the two feet of the bird,
+scalded and dried, to stand up from the centre.
+
+_Chaudfroid of Reed-birds._--Prepare as in last recipe with _pate de
+foie gras_ force-meat. Butter a dozen dariole moulds. Put a bird in
+each, breast downward; put the dariole moulds in a pan with a little
+water, and set it in the oven for fifteen minutes; when cold, turn out
+the birds, wipe them, dip each in brown _chaudfroid_ sauce, and put them
+on a dish to cool. When cold, lay them in rows against a pile of chopped
+aspic.
+
+_Brown Chaudfroid Sauce_ is made by putting a pint of Spanish sauce, a
+gill of cream, half a pint of aspic jelly together, and boiling them
+until they are reduced one quarter. Skim constantly, and strain for use.
+
+_White Chaudfroid Sauce_ is simply bechamel and aspic treated in the
+same way. It differs, of course, from plain bechamel in having the
+piquant flavor of the aspic; in appearance there is little difference.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII.
+
+COLD ENTREES.
+
+
+_Iced Savory Souffle._--This dish can be made of fish, game, or chicken,
+but is considered best made of crab. Cut up the crab, or whatever it may
+be, into small pieces; let it soak in mayonnaise sauce for two or three
+hours. Have some well-flavored aspic jelly, half liquid; whip it till it
+is very frothy; put some of this at the bottom of the dish it is to be
+served in--a silver one is most effective; then place a layer of crab
+well seasoned, and fill it up with aspic and crab alternately until the
+dish is nearly full; place a band of stiff paper round, and fill in with
+whipped aspic; set it on ice for two hours; take off the paper, and
+serve.
+
+_Savories._--Within the last few years, which may, perhaps, be called
+the renaissance of cooking in England, since Kettner, in his "Book of
+the Table," shows that in the Middle Ages that country was famous for
+its cuisine, while France was still benighted--within the last few
+years, then, there has grown up a fashion of introducing preparations
+called _savories_. They vary very much, from the tiny little _bouchette_
+of something very piquant, to be taken between courses as an
+appetizer--which, I believe, was the original idea--to quite important
+dishes suitable as entrees for formal breakfasts or suppers. But it is
+with the original "savory" as a piquant mouthful that they will take
+their place in this book. So important a part have they come to play in
+English _menus_ (I am not now speaking of simple dinners) that the
+invention of a new "savory" is something to be proud of, and it is said
+that the very best are invented by the _bons vivants_ themselves, seldom
+by the _chef_. One lady has written a book of which _savories_ is the
+only branch of cooking treated, and she says in her preface, "Savories
+being at present so fashionable, and novelties in them so eagerly
+inquired for, I have been induced to publish a small book on the
+subject."
+
+In looking over any list of small savories we find many of our old
+friends in it, such as _cheese canapes_, _angels on horseback_, _anchovy
+toast_, etc. With these familiar dainties we will have nothing to do,
+only the mention of them will serve to show that any little piquant
+morsel may be used as an appetizer served as _hors d'oeuvres_.
+
+_The Savage Club Canapes._--These must be made small enough not to
+require dividing--in other words, can be eaten at one mouthful. Cut
+slices of stale Vienna bread a quarter of an inch thick, stamp out from
+them with a very small cutter circles about the size of a fifty-cent
+piece. Saute these in a little hot butter till they are a very pale
+brown. Lay them on paper when done, to absorb grease. Stone as many
+small olives as you have guests; fillet half as many small
+anchovies--that is to say, split them, and remove the bones and scales;
+wash them, dry them, and roll each one up as small as possible, and
+insert it in an olive in place of the stone. Now trim one end of the
+olive so that it will stand; then put a drop of thick mayonnaise on the
+centre of one of the rounds of fried bread, which, of course, must be
+quite cold; stand the stuffed olive on it neatly, and put one drop of
+mayonnaise on the top, to cover the opening in the olive. A variation,
+and I think an improvement, on this bouchee, is to use a little softened
+aspic to attach the olive, and a small quantity finely chopped to crown
+it. Still another plan is to put a tiny disk of bright-red beet on the
+top, using aspic to cement it there.
+
+_Canapes a la Bismarck._--Cut circles with a small cutter from slices of
+stale bread a quarter of an inch thick; saute in butter till they are a
+light brown; spread over each when cold a thin layer of anchovy butter;
+curl round on each an anchovy well washed, boned, and trimmed; sprinkle
+very finely shred olives over them. Anchovy butter is two parts butter
+and one of anchovy paste.
+
+_Caviare Canapes._--Cut some slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick;
+cut disks from them with a small round cutter; fry them pale brown in
+butter. When about to use them chop a large handful of water-cress
+leaves very fine, taking care to press them in a cloth to remove all
+water before you begin to chop; when they are almost as fine as pulp,
+mix with them an equal amount of butter; when well blended, spread each
+canape with it, and spread a layer of caviare on the top.
+
+_Prawns en Surprise._--Cut some small rounds of bread and butter, not
+more than two inches in diameter and a quarter inch thick. Peel some
+prawns; steep them in mayonnaise sauce a few minutes; place three on
+each round of bread-and-butter, with a small piece of water-cress on
+each. Place over all some whipped aspic jelly; strew lobster coral over
+them.
+
+_Prince of Wales Canapes._--Take some fine prawns, three anchovies, two
+gherkins, and two truffles. Bone the anchovies and wash them, peel the
+prawns, and then cut all the ingredients into very small dice. Make a
+sauce as follows: Bruise a hard-boiled yolk of egg in a mortar with a
+tablespoonful of salad oil, a saltspoonful of mustard; mix with this an
+anchovy and a teaspoonful of tarragon that has been scalded and chopped;
+pound all well together, and pass through a sieve with a teaspoonful of
+tarragon vinegar and a speck of cayenne; mix enough of this with the
+prawns, etc., to season the mixture. Salt, it will be observed, is not
+mentioned, because the anchovies and prawns may be salt, but this can
+only be known to the cook by tasting. Butter some small water biscuits
+(crackers), put a small teaspoonful of the mixture on each, and cover
+with finely chopped aspic. Garnish by putting a spot of green gherkin on
+one, a spot of red beet on another, and on a third one of truffle, and
+so on alternately.
+
+_Shrimp Canapes._--Fry some rounds of bread as directed for other
+canapes. Make some shrimp butter by pounding equal quantities of
+shrimps, from which heads, tails, and shells have been removed, and
+fresh butter till they form a smooth mass; spread the fried bread with
+it. Place whole shrimps on the top in the shape of a rosette, in the
+centre of which put a tiny pinch of chopped parsley.
+
+_Cheese Biscuits a la St. James._--Take three tablespoonfuls of the
+finest flour, half a pound of cream curds, and five ounces of Brie
+cheese, which has been carefully scraped, and a pinch of salt; pound all
+in a mortar; add five ounces of softened butter and three eggs, to make
+a very stiff paste, which must be rolled very thin, and cut into round
+biscuits. Bake in a very quick oven, and serve hot.
+
+_Kluskis of Cream Cheese._--Take half a pound of fresh butter, six eggs,
+six tablespoonfuls of cream cheese, a pinch of powdered sugar, salt, and
+sufficient grated bread crumbs to make a paste, adding cream if it
+crumbles; mix well together, and roll into small balls; poach them in
+boiling water until firm (no longer). Serve hot, with a spoonful of
+poivrade sauce on each.
+
+_Cold Cheese Souffles._--Grate one and a half ounces of Gruyere cheese;
+the same of Parmesan. Whip half a pint of cream and a gill of aspic
+jelly to a high froth; stir in the cheese; season with salt, cayenne,
+and made mustard to taste. Fill little paper baskets or very small
+ramequin cases, grate cheese over the top, and set on ice to get firm.
+
+The above mixture may be frozen just as you would ice-cream, but very
+firm, then cut out in little cubes, and serve on canapes of fried bread;
+it is then called "Croutes de Fromage Glace."
+
+_Oysters a la St. George._--Take the beards from two dozen oysters; put
+the melt (or soft roe) of two Yarmouth bloaters into a saute pan with
+two ounces of butter; dry and flour the oysters, and saute them with
+the melt. Have some squares of bread fried a nice light brown; place a
+nice piece of the melt on each square, and an oyster on top; squeeze a
+few drops of lemon juice on each, and serve very hot.
+
+_Allumettes._--For these fantastic little trifles you require anchovies
+preserved in oil--not in salt; they are found at all Italian groceries
+and at the larger American grocers'. Wipe them free from scales and oil;
+cut each into long, thin strips. Have ready some plain pastry rolled
+very thin; envelop each strip of anchovy in pastry; pinch closely, so
+that it will not burst open, and fry in very hot fat for a half-minute,
+or saute them in butter till crisp and yellow. Serve log-house fashion,
+using two allumettes for each crossing instead of one; put fried parsley
+in the corners, and serve very hot.
+
+_Eggs a la St. James._--Take as many eggs as you have guests, and boil
+them hard in buttered dariole moulds; the moulds must be large enough to
+hold the egg when broken into it, but not much larger. When quite cold
+remove the eggs; slice off the white at one end of each, taking care to
+preserve the shape. Scoop out the yolk; mix this with a teaspoonful of
+chopped truffles, a little pepper and salt, and put it back very neatly
+into the whites. Coat the eggs with aspic jelly several times. Serve
+them upside down, that is, the uncut part upward. Put a spoonful of
+half-mayonnaise (mayonnaise mixed with whipped cream) on each, and a few
+specks of chopped truffle.
+
+A variety of this dish has anchovy paste in very small quantity in place
+of truffle, and the mayonnaise just made pink with it.
+
+
+
+
+XIX.
+
+GALANTINES, BALLOTINES, ETC.
+
+
+Galantines are so useful and handsome a dish in a large family, or one
+where many visitors are received, that it is well worth while to learn
+the art of boning birds in order to achieve them. Nor, if the amateur
+cook is satisfied with the unambitious mode of boning hereafter to be
+described, need the achievement be very difficult.
+
+Experts bone a bird whole without breaking the skin, but to accomplish
+it much practice is required; and even where it is desirable to preserve
+the shape of the bird, as when it is to be braised, or roasted and
+glazed for serving cold, it can be managed with care if boned the easier
+way. However, if nice white milk-fed veal can be obtained, a very
+excellent galantine may be made from it, and to my mind to be preferred
+to fowl, because, as a matter of fact, when boned there is such a thin
+sheet of meat that it but serves as a covering for the force-meat (very
+often sausage-meat), and although it makes a savory and handsome dish,
+it really is only glorified sausage-meat, much easier to produce in some
+other way. This is, of course, not the case with turkey; but a boned
+turkey is so large a dish that a private family might find it too much
+except for special occasions. On the other hand, galantines of game,
+although the birds may be still smaller, are so full of flavor that it
+overwhelms that of the dressing.
+
+The following process of boning, however, applies to all birds. To
+accomplish the work with ease and success, a French boning-knife is
+desirable, but in the absence of one a sharp-pointed case-knife may do.
+Place the bird before you, breast down, with the head towards you. Cut a
+straight line down the back through skin and flesh to the bone. Release
+with the left thumb and forefinger the skin and flesh on the left side
+nearest to you, and with the right hand keep cutting away the flesh from
+the bone, pulling it away clear as it is cut with the left hand. When
+you reach the wing joint cut it clean away, leaving the bone in the
+wing, and continue cutting with the knife close to the bone until all
+the meat from the left breast is released. Return to the back and
+continue to separate the meat from the bone, always keeping the edge of
+the knife pressed close to the latter, until the leg is reached; twist
+it round, which will enable you to get the skin over it, and cut the
+joint from the body bone. Proceed with the right side in the same way,
+using your left hand for cutting and your right to free the meat (to
+some this would be very awkward, and when it is so turn the bird round).
+The bird will now be clear of the carcass. Lay the bird flat on the
+board, inside upward, then cut out the wing-bone and proceed to the
+legs; cut the meat on the inside of each thigh down to the bone and
+clear the meat from it, cutting it each side until you can lift the
+bone out; then free the drumstick in the same way.
+
+If it be intended to stuff the bird in form, it would be necessary to
+bone the leg and wings from the inside, but for a galantine it is
+useless trouble, as they are to be drawn inside the bird. Spread out the
+bird, having drawn legs and wings inside, season with a teaspoonful of
+salt and half a saltspoonful of white pepper mixed together, and rubbed
+over the flesh, which must have been made as even as possible by cutting
+the thick parts and spreading them over the thin ones. If there are any
+bits of meat clinging to the bones they must be carefully gathered
+together and chopped with a pound of veal and two ounces of lean cold
+boiled ham, with four ounces of fat, sweet, salt pork. (Butter may be
+substituted if pork is objected to). When all is chopped as fine as
+sausage-meat, season rather highly with pepper and salt. Spread a layer
+an inch thick over the bird; then add some long strips of tongue, some
+black truffles cut into dice half an inch square, and a few pistachio
+nuts. Dispose these, which may be called the ornamental adjuncts of the
+galantine, judiciously, so that when cut cold they will be well
+distributed. Cover carefully with another layer of force-meat, fold both
+sides over so that the force-meat will be well enclosed, form it into a
+bolster-shaped roll, tie it up in a linen cloth securely with string at
+each end, and sew the cloth evenly along the middle, so that the shape
+will keep even. Put it into a stewpan with stock enough to cover it, two
+onions, two carrots sliced, a stick of celery, a small bunch of parsley,
+a dozen peppercorns, an ounce of salt, and the bones of the bird, well
+cracked. Let it _simmer gently_ for three hours and a half. Take it up,
+strain the liquor, and let the galantine get nearly cold. Take off the
+cloth; wring it quite dry; put it on again, rolling the galantine as
+tight as possible; tie firmly, and place it on a platter; cover with
+another platter, and place a heavy weight upon it to press it into
+shape. Let the stock get cold. Take off the grease. Add a
+half-teaspoonful of sugar and the juice of a quarter of a lemon to the
+stock, and reduce by rapid boiling to a half-glaze, that is to say, a
+jelly firm enough to cut into forms without being tough. Clear with
+white of egg in the usual way, and when quite transparent pour part into
+shallow dishes, leaving enough to cover the galantine. Color one dish a
+rich clear brown; leave the rest light. When the jelly thickens, but is
+not quite set, cover the galantine with it half an inch thick. When the
+jelly is cold, cut it into what are called _croutons_, which may mean
+vandyked strips, to be laid across, triangles, squares, or any fancy
+shapes; the pieces and trimmings are chopped to scatter over the dish or
+lay in small piles round.
+
+_Ballotines_ are small galantines made by treating small birds as
+directed in last recipe, only that the force-meat should have a larger
+proportion of truffles, and be made of the same kind of bird; for
+instance, grouse would have rich force-meat of grouse. One grouse,
+however, would make two or four ballotines; quails make two, to be
+served as individuals.
+
+_Galantine of Breast of Veal._--Bone a breast of young white veal very
+carefully, spread it out as flat as possible on the board, pare the meat
+at the ends for about an inch so that the skin may project beyond. Take
+all the scraps of meat that may have come from boning, provided they are
+not sinewy; take also twelve ounces of veal cutlet, and half the
+quantity of fat unsmoked bacon. Chop very fine, seasoning all rather
+highly. When the meat is fine, season the inside of the veal. Mix with
+the force-meat tongue, truffles, and pistachio-nuts or olives, all cut
+into half-inch dice (the tongue larger). So mix these that they will
+come at regular intervals through the stuffing. Roll the breast round
+the stuffing, which is not spread, but laid in a mass, and sew the veal
+together. Fasten it up in a cloth, tie securely at the ends, then tie
+bands of tape round at intervals to keep it in shape.
+
+Braise this galantine for six hours in stock, which may be made of a
+small knuckle of veal and the bones and trimmings. Vegetables as
+directed for chicken galantine.
+
+Let the galantine be cold before it is untied. Garnish and glaze as
+directed for chicken.
+
+Galantine is occasionally made of sucking pig, and is very popular in
+France. The pig must be carefully boned, all but the head and feet. A
+sufficient quantity of veal, of fat unsmoked bacon, and of bread panada
+must be chopped and pounded to make enough force-meat to stuff the pig
+in the proportion of one part bacon, two panada, and three of veal,
+seasoned with a teaspoonful of onion juice and two of powdered sage.
+
+The pig's liver must have been boiled in stock, and cut in dice. There
+must be fillets or strips of rabbit or chicken, a few chopped truffles
+and olives. Mix well. Lay in the fillets as you stuff the pig, and when
+full sew up the opening. Try to keep the shape as near as possible. Then
+braise slowly for four to five hours, as directed for galantine of veal.
+Do not remove the cloth till it is cold.
+
+
+
+
+XX.
+
+HOW TO "FILLET."--COLD GAME PIES.
+
+
+I have spoken several times of "filleting." To some readers an
+explanation of the term may be necessary. To "cut up" a bird does not
+indicate the meaning, nor does the term "to carve" it do so, because to
+carve means to cut up or divide with an exact observance of joints and
+"cuts." Filleting, when applied to anything without bones, as the breast
+of a bird or boned fish, means to cut into very neat strips that are
+thicker than slices; but when you are directed to "fillet" a grouse or a
+chicken, it is intended that you should cut it into small neat portions
+regardless of joints and without the least mangling of it; therefore a
+very sharp knife must be used, and either a small sharp cleaver or a
+large cook's knife only to be employed when a bone has to be cut
+through.
+
+_To Fillet Cooked Birds: Grouse, Pheasants, or Poultry._--Cut the bird
+in half straight down the middle of the breast-bone, using a large sharp
+knife for the purpose. Lay each half on the table and take out the
+breast-bone from either side. If the bird is a large fowl, duck, or
+partridge, each breast will make three fillets, and leave a good piece
+with the wing, but average birds only make two breast fillets. Chop off
+the pinions within an inch of the meat, then cut the wing in two neatly;
+drumsticks are to be chopped off close to the meat, and divided into two
+fillets (if a large chicken or duck; leave game whole); cut the thigh in
+two also. Trim very neatly; leave no hanging skin; indeed, when
+filleting for _chaudfroids_ the skin should be entirely removed, and
+both it and the leg-bones are removed for pies. When possible, it is
+better not to use the drumsticks. From a chicken they make an admirable
+"devil," and from game they help the bones and trimmings to make a rich
+gravy; so it is no waste to discard them.
+
+Cold pies are of two kinds: the one cooked in a terrine or dish without
+pastry; the other in what the English call a "raised paste," and the
+French a _pate chaude_. Those with paste--which is seldom eaten--are far
+handsomer, but do not keep so well--that is to say, they must be eaten
+within three or four days even in winter; while in a terrine carefully
+kept in a cool airy place the pie will be good at the end of three
+weeks.
+
+On the other hand, the pie in a terrine is much less trouble to make.
+Proceed as follows:
+
+_Game Pie._--Make some force-meat thus: Fry a quarter of a pound of fat
+ham cut in dice with half a pound of lean veal. Take the ham up before
+it gets brown, as you do not need it crisp; when the veal is cooked take
+that up also, and if there is enough of the ham fat in the pan, put in
+half a pound of calf's liver cut up in dice, if not, saute it in
+butter. In sauteing all these they must be often stirred, as you want
+them well cooked and yet not very brown. When done they must be finely
+chopped, then pounded in a mortar, with a small teaspoonful of salt, and
+half a saltspoonful of pepper. Then add a dozen mushrooms chopped, and
+mix the whole.
+
+A game pie is usually made rather large, and the greater variety of game
+used, the better; partridge, pheasant, grouse, hare, all help one
+another, but at least two kinds are necessary. It must be boned and
+neatly filleted into small joints. Put on all the bones and trimmings to
+stew in three pints of water, with a good-sized carrot, onion, a stick
+of celery, a small bouquet, a clove, a teaspoonful of sugar, one of
+salt, and a little pepper; boil all this until the bones look white and
+dry when out of the stock. Strain, and reduce by rapid boiling to a
+half-glaze; put a layer of the force-meat at the bottom of the dish,
+then one of boned game, with a sprinkling of pepper and salt, and either
+a little finely chopped parsley or, what is far better, a few thin
+slices of truffles; pour over a little of the reduced stock; fill the
+dish in this way to within an inch of the top; make a plain
+flour-and-water paste, lay it on the pie, and make a hole in the centre,
+bake slowly in a pan of hot water. When cold, remove the paste, cover
+the top with chopped aspic, fold a napkin, and serve the terrine on it,
+with a wreath of parsley round the base. Game pie is not a dish to be
+eaten at one or even two meals (unless very small), therefore the aspic
+must be fresh each time it is served.
+
+_French Method of Making a Game Pie or Pate Chaude._--Make a paste of
+two pounds of flour and one of lard or butter, with salt to taste and
+about half a pint of water; knead it into a smooth, rather hard paste;
+put it into a damp napkin for an hour. Butter a raised pie dish--a tin
+one that opens to release the pie--line it with the paste rolled half
+an inch thick, letting it come half an inch above the dish; line the
+inside of the paste with buttered paper, bottom and sides, and fill with
+rice or corn meal; cover with another piece of buttered paper, wet the
+top of the pastry all round, and lay a cover of thin pastry over it;
+trim very neatly, make a hole in the centre, and ornament with leaves
+cut from the paste and laid on; the under side should be slightly
+moistened to make them adhere. Brush the surface with well-beaten egg,
+and bake about an hour, when it should be a nice golden brown. Take off
+the cover; after it has slightly cooled, remove the rice or meal and the
+buttered paper; take the case from the mould, and brush it all over with
+egg inside and out; set it in the oven until the glazing dries, and any
+part that may not be sufficiently brown becomes the color of the cover,
+which, being glazed at first, is not returned to the oven.
+
+_Preparation for Filling the Case._--Fillet chickens, guinea-hens,
+partridges, or grouse (leave pigeons or quails whole, but bone them).
+Put sufficient pieces of one sort, or all sorts mixed, to fill the pate
+chaude case into a saute pan, with two ounces of butter, and saute till
+lightly colored. Take them out, and put them in a stewpan with a quart
+of reduced consomme, half a pint of mushrooms sliced, a dozen truffles
+cut into dice (half-inch), a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and a
+wineglass of sherry, and let them simmer very gently, _not boil_, for
+half an hour, or until very tender. Let them cool, and when lukewarm
+arrange them in the pate case, leaving the centre hollow, which fill
+with mushrooms and truffles. The liquor in which they were stewed must
+be then poured over them. The cover of a pate chaude case is often not
+used, and aspic jelly covers the top of the pie.
+
+_English Manner of Making Game Pie in a Crust._--Use at least two kinds
+of game, which for this purpose must not be long kept; high game is
+acceptable to epicures when roasted or stewed, but never in a pie.
+Discard all parts blackened by shot. Cut into neat joints, from which
+bones must be removed. Take all the fragments from the carcass after the
+breast and joints are removed, and the flesh of a small bird or hare,
+or, failing that, some calf's liver fried in dice; pound whichever you
+may have for force-meat in a mortar with four ounces of bacon that has
+been boiled; when the whole forms a paste (from which you have removed
+all strings, sinew, or gristle while pounding), season with pepper and
+salt--a teaspoonful of salt to a pound of force-meat, and a scant half
+saltspoonful of pepper. Put on the bones, _without vegetables_, in cold
+water to simmer until it is a rich broth, which strain, and boil rapidly
+till a little set on ice in a saucer will jelly. Make what is called
+"raised" paste in the following way: To two pounds of flour use three
+quarters of a pound of butter and half a pint of scalding milk; pour
+this into a hole in the centre of the flour, and knead into a firm
+paste, adding a little more milk if necessary (but it seldom is). This
+paste is not to be rolled, but beaten out with the hand while warm to
+half an inch thickness. Line a well-buttered meat-pie mould, with a
+hinge opening at the side; leave half an inch of paste above the mould;
+trim off neatly with scissors. Then lay in the game and force-meat in
+alternate layers, seasoning the joints with pepper and salt as you lay
+them. A few slices of tongue and truffles to form one layer are
+desirable. When the mould is full, lay on the cover, moisten the under
+edge, and pinch round in tiny scallops. Make a hole in the centre, round
+which put an ornament; stick in a bone to prevent the hole closing, and
+bake two to four hours in a moderate oven, according to size,
+remembering always that the crust will not be injured by long baking,
+and that the game in this pie is uncooked. When it is removed from the
+oven, let it stand half an hour, taking the mould off, that it may
+cool; then brush the sides and top with an egg beaten with milk, and
+return the pie to the oven that the sides may brown; cover the top, if
+it is already highly colored, with a sheet of paper. Remove the bone
+from the centre, insert a small funnel, and after removing all fat from
+it, pour in the gravy from the bones. The gravy must be poured very
+slowly or it will bubble up, and care must be taken to have all the pie
+will hold, yet not a drop too much, or it will ooze somewhere. These
+pies, when quite cold, may be sent any distance, and are much used in
+England and Scotland for hunting-parties, besides being a standard
+breakfast and luncheon dish. The crust is merely a frame to hold the
+game.
+
+
+
+
+XXI.
+
+GARNISHES.
+
+
+In all choice cookery the appearance of dishes has to be carefully
+studied. However good the taste may be, the effect will be spoiled if
+its appearance on the table does not come up to the expectation raised
+by the name on the _menu_. For this reason the subject of garnishes
+requires to be considered apart from the dishes they adorn. In the old
+time garnishes were few and simple, and when not simple, very ugly, as
+the camellias cut from turnips and stained with beet juice. Nowadays
+garnishes are many, and many so termed form part of the dish, as what
+are termed, "floating garnishes for soup," quenelles, etc. Garnishes
+that are merely ornamental need not be so expensively made as those
+intended for eating. Foremost among fashionable floating garnishes for
+soup are the colored custards known as pate royale; they are perfectly
+easy to make, yet very effective served in clear bouillon.
+
+_Colored Custard._--Prepare the custard with five yolks of eggs, a gill
+of cream or strong bouillon, and a pinch of salt; butter small saucers
+or cups; divide the custard in three--color one with spinach juice or
+pulp of green asparagus, another with red tomato pulp or the pulp of red
+carrot boiled, and a third with pulp of beets. A few drops of cochineal
+may be added to intensify the color of the last, which is apt to be a
+beautiful pink instead of red. The custard for which pulps are used must
+be strained after they are added, expressing as much of the juice as
+possible. The custard should be flavored delicately with the vegetable
+used for color.
+
+_Spinach Juice_ is very frequently directed to be used as coloring, but
+scarcely anywhere is any indication given that the juice without
+preparation is of very little use. It should be prepared as follows:
+Take a large handful of fresh green spinach, wash it, and remove decayed
+leaves only; drain well, then pound in a mortar or chopping-bowl until
+quite mashed. Let it stand a quarter of an hour, then squeeze the mass
+in a cloth, and put the green water into a cup, which set over the fire
+in a small saucepan of water; watch the scum rise; when it stands quite
+thick at the top and turns a vivid green, remove at once (if it remains
+on the fire after this the green darkens); pour the contents of the cup
+through cheese-cloth or thin muslin laid in a strainer. The scum that
+remains is your coloring matter. It must be carefully scraped off with a
+spoon, and mix with the custard only as much as is required to give a
+delicate green tint. If any is left it may be mixed with an equal
+quantity of salt and put away; it loses color, however, after a few
+days.
+
+The colored custards must be set in water, a small piece of buttered
+paper over each, and the water allowed to boil gently round them till
+they are firm. Let them get quite cold; then cut them into cubes or
+diamonds.
+
+_Profiterolles._--Perhaps the next in popularity of these floating
+garnishes are _profiterolles_, or "prophet's rolls," as cooks call them.
+They are made exactly like those intended for dessert, omitting
+sweetening of course, and a very small quantity is required, as they
+must be dropped no larger than a pea, and baked a _pale_ fawn-color.
+
+Put a gill of water and a pinch of salt and two ounces of butter in a
+small saucepan; as soon as they begin to boil draw the saucepan back and
+stir in four ounces of flour; beat well over the fire with a wooden
+spoon until it becomes a soft paste, then add the yolks of two eggs and
+white of one, beating each yolk in separately. It will be seen that the
+paste is similar to that made for cream cakes.
+
+A similar garnish is made in the following way: Beat an egg with a pinch
+of salt, and then stir in as much dry sifted flour as the egg will
+moisten; work it well with the hands till it is elastic, although stiff.
+Roll it on a pastry board until it is as thin as paper, then roll it on
+a clean linen cloth still thinner, and leave it a quarter of an hour to
+dry. Then fold the paste, press it very tightly together, and with a tin
+cylinder, not larger in diameter than a cent, cut out, with considerable
+pressure, as many small disks as you require to allow five or six to
+each plate of soup. Have ready in a small saucepan some _smoking hot_
+lard. Drop the disks in; they will puff and swell till they are like
+marbles. Stir them, and take them out of the fat; they require only a
+few seconds to brown, and must be taken out very pale. Add to the soup
+the last thing before serving.
+
+While aspic jelly is certainly the handsomest of garnishes for cold
+dishes, it is generally part of the food itself, and should not be so
+lavishly used that when helped there is more jelly than meat served.
+Where the jelly is intended only for a garnish not to be eaten, simple
+gelatine is sufficient. For instance, a large platter containing a
+galantine or a _chaudfroid_ may have a handsome wreath glued on the
+border, of red and green leaves, or holly leaves and red berries, or any
+device that need not be disturbed by the carver.
+
+For such decorations as these gelatine is melted in proportion of three
+ounces to a scant quart of water, cleared with white of egg, and then
+colored pale yellow with caramel or saffron, vivid red with cochineal,
+and bright green with spinach; it saves time and trouble to let this
+congeal on dishes in thin sheets. Small cutters of ivy, oak, and other
+leaves can readily be purchased at the large house-furnishing stores.
+
+One word here about uneatable decorations, never admit them at a
+children's party; they are the very part of the feast the little people
+will most crave; red leaves for them must be of red currant-jelly,
+yellow of white, etc.
+
+"Forced butter" is another form of garnish which adds much to the
+appearance of glazed ham or tongue. It is butter beaten to a white
+cream, then put in a forcer, and a pattern traced on the ham, which must
+be followed just as in icing a cake.
+
+_A Few Ways of Cooking Vegetables._--It is not intended to go into the
+general cooking of vegetables, although it may be said that even the
+choicest cooking can offer no greater luxury, or, alas! a greater
+rarity, than a dish of early peas or asparagus _perfectly cooked_. But
+this is not the place to remedy the wholesale spoiling of summer
+vegetables that goes on in almost every kitchen. I will only give what
+may be a few new ways of preparing familiar vegetables.
+
+_Stuffed Artichokes._--Wash the artichokes; boil till nearly tender;
+drain them; remove the middle leaves and "chokes" (this is the fibrous
+part round the base); lay in each a little rich force-meat, and put them
+in the oven to cook until the meat is done. Serve with rich brown
+gravy.
+
+_Fried Artichokes._--Cut in slices lengthwise; remove the chokes, cut
+off the tops of the leaves, wash them in vinegar and water, drain them,
+and dip them in frying batter. Fry in very hot oil or lard. Serve with
+fried parsley sprinkled with salt.
+
+_Beet-root Fritters._--Cut boiled beets in slices; slice raw onions;
+scald them; dry them well; then lay one slice of onion, sprinkled with
+chopped chervil, pepper, and salt, between two slices of beet. Dip them
+carefully in frying batter, and plunge into boiling fat; when pale brown
+take them up.
+
+_Cauliflower Fritters._--Parboil the cauliflower--that is to say, boil
+until it begins to be tender--about fifteen minutes; then plunge it into
+ice-cold water; this keeps it white. Break it up into branches. Dip each
+one into thick bechamel sauce slightly warmed; let them get cold; then
+take each piece separately and dip it into carefully made frying batter,
+and drop them into boiling lard; fry a pale brown, and serve garnished
+with fried parsley.
+
+
+
+
+XXII.
+
+VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING VEGETABLES.
+
+
+_Stuffed Cucumbers._--Cut large-sized young cucumbers into slices about
+two inches thick, rejecting the ends. Peel, and remove the seeds; scald
+the slices for ten minutes, plunge them into cold water, and drain them.
+Line a fire-proof china dish with very thin slices of unsmoked bacon
+which has been scalded; make some veal force-meat such as directed for
+galantines; fill the holes in the centre of the rings of cucumber till
+it is level with the surface on both sides; wrap each up in a slice of
+bacon broad enough to cover it. Tie round with a string, pour a pint of
+strong stock into the dish, and bake twenty minutes in a slow oven. When
+done, take up the cucumber, drain, and remove the bacon carefully so as
+not to disturb the stuffing. Lay in a dish, and serve with Robert
+sauce.
+
+In the following recipes the mushrooms to be used are the large flap
+ones. When canned ones will serve, the fact will be stated.
+
+_Mushrooms Stuffed a la Lucullus._--Wash, dry, and trim large mushrooms;
+chop up the stalks and broken ones fine with a teaspoonful of minced
+parsley, pepper, salt, and a tomato; make these hot in a tablespoonful
+of butter. Fill the mushrooms with the mixture, place them on a buttered
+baking-dish, and bake six minutes, basting them once or twice with
+clarified butter.
+
+_Mushrooms and Tomatoes._--Toast some slices of bread, cut them into
+rounds two inches in diameter, and butter them. Peel some firm tomatoes,
+cut them into thick slices, and lay them on the toast. On the top of
+each place a peeled mushroom. Put them on a dish that can go to table,
+pour a little clarified butter over them, put them in a hot oven for
+three minutes, and baste well. Serve hot and quickly.
+
+_Mushroom Jelly._--Take two pounds of mushrooms, put them in a stewpan
+over the fire with a gill of strong consomme. Squeeze in a few drops of
+lemon juice, add a little pepper and salt, unless the consomme was salt
+enough. Melt in a gill of water half an ounce of gelatine, and strain
+it. When the mushrooms are quite soft, pass them through a sieve, mixed
+with the gelatine, and pour the mixture into a mould which has been
+rinsed with water. When set, turn out and garnish with finely chopped
+aspic, and a few cherry tomatoes if in season.
+
+_Mushroom Baskets._--Make some puff-paste; roll it out _very_ thin. Line
+some small suitably shaped moulds (darioles will do very nicely); fill
+the centre with uncooked rice or flour to keep the shape while baking;
+cut some strips of paste, twist them, and bend them into the shape of
+handles; bake them very pale. When the pastry cases are done, empty out
+the rice, remove them from the moulds, and fill with the following
+mixture: chop as many canned mushrooms as you require with a small
+shallot, squeeze to them the juice and pulp of a large tomato, and put
+them in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of
+very thick white sauce. Stir till about the consistency to eat with a
+fork. Squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over the top. Put the handles
+in so that they stand over the tops. Decorate with fried parsley.
+
+The large Spanish or Portuguese onion that has of late years appeared in
+the markets is not often properly cooked. It is the most delicate and
+delicious of all onions, lacking the usual intense heat and rank odor.
+For this reason persons who wish to eat onions, either for health or
+inclination, will find this large onion cut up with ordinary salad
+dressing a great improvement even on Bermudas. This onion is full of a
+milky juice, which is lost in cooking if it is cut. Therefore, where a
+simple dish is required, the best way is to boil it, without peeling or
+trimming, for three hours if it weighs three pounds (it must be tender
+right through); then take it up, strip it, and remove the root, stalk,
+etc. Pour over it a rich white sauce, and serve, taking care that the
+gravy that runs from the onion is served with it. A still better way
+when an oven is not wanted is to bake them. Put them in a dripping-pan
+in the oven without removing peel or stalk. Bake at least four hours in
+a moderate oven. It will burn and blacken outside, which is of no
+consequence. Keep it turned so that the darkening may not go deeper one
+side than the other. When quite tender (but do not try it until it
+begins to shrink, or you will let out the juices), so that a
+knitting-needle will run through it, take it out of the oven, strip off
+three or four skins, remove root and stalk, and place the onion, without
+breaking it, on a dish; put a piece of butter as large as an egg, with a
+saltspoonful of salt and a quarter one of pepper worked in it, on the
+onion; cover it, and put in the oven till the butter melts, and serve
+very hot.
+
+_Stuffed Spanish Onion._--Parboil a Spanish onion; then drop it into
+ice-water; take out the centre and fill it with force-meat; cover with a
+thin slice of sweet fat pork; sprinkle with a teaspoonful of salt and
+the same of sugar; add four tablespoonfuls of stock, cover closely, and
+cook over a good fire. When the onion is tender, take it up, remove the
+pork, strain and skim the gravy, pour it over, and serve. The best
+force-meat for the stuffing is made of cold chicken, a shred of boiled
+ham, a little chopped parsley, half a dozen mushrooms, all chopped well
+and mixed with a tablespoonful of butter and pepper and salt.
+
+_Potatoes a la Provencale._--Mash and pass through a wire sieve two
+pounds of potatoes; season with pepper and salt. Grate two ounces of
+Gruyere (Swiss) cheese, pound it with enough butter to make a paste, add
+a gill of milk and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; put this in a saute
+pan, add the potato, mix all well, and stir until the mass is pale
+brown; serve as a pyramid.
+
+_Milanese Potatoes._--Bake large potatoes till just tender; cut off the
+tops, which keep. Scoop out the potatoes, but do not break the skin.
+Mash the inside with butter, pepper, salt, and grated Parmesan; about a
+teaspoonful of butter and cheese to each will be the right proportion.
+Beat the potato mixture with a fork for a minute to make it light,
+refill the skins, put on the covers, and heat them in the oven.
+
+_Scalloped Potatoes._--Mash two pounds of potatoes with milk, and pass
+through a sieve; add three ounces of butter melted, two ounces of grated
+Parmesan cheese, and a little pepper and salt. Fill shells with this
+mixture, and brown them in the oven. Glaze them over with butter melted
+and grated Parmesan; return one minute to the hottest part of the oven.
+Serve very hot.
+
+_Tomato Jelly._--Two pounds of tomatoes, half a grain of red pepper, and
+two small shallots. Place them in a stewpan and boil till quite soft.
+Melt half an ounce of gelatine in as little white stock as possible;
+add this to the tomatoes, and strain; if not perfectly clear, clarify
+with white of egg in the usual way. Mould, and serve with chopped aspic
+round it. A little grated Parmesan may be sometimes sprinkled over it
+for a change.
+
+_Tomato Souffle._--Prepare some tomato pulp, taking care to boil it down
+if too liquid; stir in the yolks of three eggs, then the whites well
+beaten; salt to taste. Fill either a large souffle case or several small
+ones. Bake in a hot oven till it rises very high and is set in the
+centre; serve instantly.
+
+_Spinach Fritters._--Boil the spinach till it is quite tender; drain,
+press, and mince it fine; add half the quantity of grated stale bread,
+one grate of nutmeg, and a _small_ teaspoonful of sugar; add a gill of
+cream and as many eggs as will make a batter, beating the whites
+separately; pepper and salt to taste. Drop a little from a spoon into
+boiling lard; if it separates, add a little more crumb of bread; when
+they rise to the surface of the fat they are done. Drain them, and serve
+very quickly, or they will fall.
+
+
+
+
+XXIII.
+
+JELLIES.
+
+
+In this country culinary skill seems to run to sweet rather than to
+savory cooking; very few housekeepers but make excellent preserves and
+cakes, yet the list of sweet dishes manufactured at home is very
+limited; as soon as anything not in this category is required the
+caterer is applied to, and he has his list of water-ices, cream-ices,
+and meringues, with very little variation; sometimes, indeed, a new name
+appears on the list, but it turns out to be some old friend with a new
+garnish, or put in a different mould and given an alluring name. There
+are many delicious sweet dishes not difficult to make when once the
+processes of making jelly and of freezing are understood (and very many
+who do not pretend to be good cooks are expert at these two things),
+and others which do not require even that ability. To put a sweet dish
+on the table, however, in perfection, especially if it be an iced one,
+requires the utmost care and skill; the slightest carelessness in
+packing a frozen pudding, any delay between removing it from the ice and
+getting it on the dish, will destroy that dull, marble-like appearance
+it ought to wear when first it makes its entry, although it will gleam
+with melting sweetness long before it reaches the partakers. Happily
+there are many delightful sweets which are beautiful in appearance and
+less depending on atmosphere than any of the family of ices. The
+simplest of these are fruit jellies.
+
+I spoke just now of the art of making jelly, and many readers may think
+in using such a term for so simple a thing I am exaggerating, and
+perhaps "art" is hardly the word, yet there is a daintiness and nicety
+in making jelly which almost deserves the term.
+
+However, before talking of how sweet dishes are to be made it is
+necessary to provide the means by which they are to be redeemed from the
+commonplace of mere richness and sweetness. The flavorings and liqueurs
+keep indefinitely if well corked. Orange-flower water, it is true, will
+lose strength, but when a bottle is first opened, if it is poured off
+into small vials, and each one corked and _sealed_, it will keep its
+original strength. The following list of articles kept in store will
+enable a cook to give her cakes, creams, etc., just that "foreign"
+flavor that home products so often lack: almonds, almond paste, candied
+cherries, candied angelica, candied orange, lemon, and citron peels,
+pistachio-nuts, orange-flower water, rose-water, prepared cochineal,
+maraschino, ratafia, lemons, extract of vanilla, and sherry.
+
+Several of these things are used principally for decoration; for
+instance, the candied cherries and angelica and the pistachio-nuts.
+Consequently, unless the cherries and angelica are required for dessert
+(to which they are a showy and delicious addition), a quarter of a
+pound at a time is all that need be bought. Very likely in small cities
+or country places these latter articles may not be obtainable. But they
+are sold at the large city caterers', also at the stores which deal in
+French crystallized fruits--not French _candy_ stores--and can always be
+sent by mail.
+
+The vanilla should be of the finest quality, and had better be bought by
+the ounce or half-pint from the druggist than from the grocer. There are
+good extracts put up, no doubt, but very many of them are largely made
+of tonka-bean, the flavor familiar in cheap ice-cream, in place of the
+more expensive vanilla.
+
+In the recipes that will be given the directions will be as minute as
+possible; but to prescribe the number of drops required to flavor a
+quart of cream would be utterly impossible, the strength of the
+flavoring used differing so greatly, even in lemons. Sometimes the juice
+of half a lemon will be right for a certain thing, at another the juice
+of a quarter of one would be too much. This is where judgment must be
+exercised. If you have a very juicy lemon, although your recipe says the
+juice of half, you will remember that the average lemon would not yield
+nearly so much, and that the author had the average lemon in mind. This
+applies to all flavoring. Sometimes extract of bitter almond is so
+strong that even a drop would be too much to impart the faint almond
+flavor which alone is tolerable. In this case the thing to do for fear
+of spoiling the dish is to pour a half-dozen drops in a teaspoonful of
+water, and use from that, drop by drop, until the faint flavor desired
+is attained. In using any flavoring, great care must be taken not to put
+too much, as anything in the least over-flavored is offensive.
+
+_Mould of Apple Jelly._--Peel and cut up a pound of fine-flavored apples
+(to weigh a pound after preparation); put them in a stewpan with three
+ounces of granulated sugar, half a pint of water, and the juice and
+grated rind of a lemon. When cooked to a pulp, pass through a strainer,
+and stir in one ounce of gelatine that has been dissolved in a gill of
+water. Color half the apple with _about_ half a teaspoonful of
+cochineal, and fill a border mould with alternate layers of the colored
+and uncolored apple. When cold, turn out and serve with half a pint of
+cream whipped solid and piled in the centre.
+
+There is a great difference in the solidity of whipped cream. Sometimes
+it will be a mere froth that shows a disposition to liquefy, and cannot
+be piled up. When this is the case there is always a great waste of
+cream, for at least half will have been left as a milky residue. The
+reason for this failure of the cream to whip solid is generally because
+it is too fresh or too warm.
+
+If in proper condition, cream will whip as solid as white of eggs, and
+leave not a teaspoonful of liquid at the bottom of the bowl; nor will
+there be the least danger of cream so whipped going back to liquid. It
+will become sour, but not change its form; and it will take but a few
+minutes to beat.
+
+Cream intended for whipping should be twenty-four hours old in warm
+weather, and thirty-six in winter. It should also be thoroughly chilled,
+and if the day is very warm it would be better to set the bowl
+containing it on ice while whipping it. Put in the whip, or egg-beater,
+and _do not_ lift the froth off as it rises; it is quite unnecessary if
+the vessel you use for the cream is large enough. As you see it begin to
+thicken, which will be after steady beating for five or six minutes,
+keep on just as you would for white of eggs. When the beater is
+withdrawn you should be able to cut the cream or pile it any height. If
+by reason of excessive heat it is slow in reaching the proper
+consistency, leave the beater in the bowl, and set the whole on the ice
+until very cold again.
+
+The consistency of jelly should be only just stiff enough to keep form.
+It should shake and tremble while being served instead of remaining
+solid. It requires some little practice to make sure of this every time,
+although exact proportions be given. A tablespoonful difference in the
+pint or gill measure would, where the gelatine is only just enough,
+cause the jelly to "squat"--not an elegant term, but one that represents
+the form of a too soft jelly.
+
+A very exact recipe for plain claret jelly, and which in proportions
+serves for any other unless special mention is made of some variation,
+is as follows: Three quarters of a pint of water, one pint of claret, a
+quarter of a pint of lemon juice (this makes one quart of liquid), the
+rind of one lemon, half an inch of cinnamon in the stick and two cloves,
+one tablespoonful of red currant jelly, two ounces of gelatine, the
+whites and shells of two eggs, a few drops of cochineal, and four ounces
+of sugar; put all in a stewpan, the gelatine having been softened in a
+little of the water; whisk over the fire until the whole boils; then
+draw it off, let it stand for five to ten minutes; strain through
+flannel or fine linen _without pressure_, add a few drops of cochineal
+to brighten the color, and mould for use.
+
+Use great care in selecting cinnamon, for very much that is sold is not
+the true spice, but a cheaper one (cassia) that resembles it. Cinnamon
+has a bright tan-color, is rolled many times, and is not much thicker
+than paper when a piece is unrolled. Cassia is thicker in the roll, a
+dull brown, and if a piece is broken is like a piece of wood. It is
+similar in flavor, but much coarser, and has little strength.
+
+
+
+
+XXIV.
+
+JELLIES.--_Continued._
+
+
+If it is kept in mind that two ounces of gelatine to the quart of liquid
+is the right proportion, and that if even a tablespoonful of flavoring,
+fruit juice, or what not, is added, exactly the same quantity of other
+liquid must be omitted, there will not be much danger of formless jelly.
+Many forget this when not working from an exact recipe, and remembering
+only that a quart of cream or water or wine requires two ounces of
+gelatine to set it, they do not deduct for the glass of wine or juice of
+lemon, etc., they may add for flavoring. Although wine jelly is rather a
+simple form of sweet, suggestive of innocent country teas, a very little
+more time than the average housekeeper bestows upon it will convert it
+into a very elegant dish. In the season for fruits there is no more
+beautiful ornament for jelly than these, carefully gathered, with two or
+three leaves attached.
+
+_Jelly with Fresh Fruits._--Select cherries of two or three colors if
+possible, in sprays of two or three, and on each a leaf or two; wash
+them carefully by dipping them in and out of a bowl of water. Lay them
+between soft cloths to remove all moisture. Make a quart of punch jelly
+in the following way: Put together a pint of water, a quarter of a pint
+of the finest Santa Cruz or Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pint of sherry,
+a gill and a half of lemon juice, the rinds of two lemons, and the juice
+of one orange, or, if oranges are not to be obtained in cherry season,
+half a gill more of water, two ounces of gelatine, half an inch of
+cinnamon, the whites of two eggs well beaten and the shells crushed. Let
+this come to a boil over the fire, being well whisked the while; as soon
+as it boils draw it to a cool spot on the range, let it stand five
+minutes, and strain through scalded flannel over a bowl; let it drip,
+but do not use the least pressure. This jelly must be brilliantly clear.
+If there is any milky appearance it proves that the jelly did not really
+boil, and so the eggs had not completely coagulated; in that event boil
+once more for an instant, and strain again through fresh flannel. Oil a
+mould that has no design of fruit or vegetable at the bottom, and set it
+in cracked ice; pour in an inch or two of the jelly when nearly cold.
+Have the cherries ice cold, and arrange the sprays gracefully with due
+regard to color, remembering that the best effect must be not upward
+towards you, but towards the bottom of the mould; thus the underside of
+the leaves must be upward, etc. Do not put in more fruit than will
+display itself well. The bunches are to be isolated, not allowed to
+touch each other, and for this reason it may not be possible to lay more
+than one cluster at the bottom, if the mould is small there. In this
+case dispose a bunch of black cherries and leaves gracefully in the
+centre, pour in more jelly, half an inch or so, then nearer the sides
+arrange lighter-colored cherries, two or three clusters, no more. The
+fruit is only intended as an ornament. A jelly that is quite as pretty
+may be made by using clusters of red and white, or red, white, and black
+currants. The red and white ones should have two or three young leaves
+attached, and each cluster be perfect; no black-currant leaves must be
+used, as they have a strong flavor.
+
+_Jelly with Candied Fruits._--Make a quart of maraschino jelly, which is
+done by omitting the rum, lemon, and cinnamon from the last recipe, and
+using in place of rum a gill of maraschino, and water in place of lemon
+juice. The jelly must be very pale. Choose the fruits of as bright
+colors as possible--small green oranges, red cherries, bright yellow
+mirabelles, angelica perfectly green. Cut the oranges in half--two or
+three will suffice--leave mirabelles and cherries whole; apricots cut
+in half-moons. The angelica, if cut across a quarter-inch thick, will
+form rings, but if something more ornamental is desired it can be split
+lengthwise, softened in hot water, wiped, then tied into small
+love-knots. Pour into a mould set in ice (the melon shape is excellent
+for these jellies) an inch of jelly, let it set; then scatter in a few
+pieces of bright-colored fruit, always the best side downward; pour in
+an inch more of jelly, and when set more fruit, keeping the brighter
+pieces towards the side; if you have knots of angelica, put them near
+the side. Always see that one layer of fruit and jelly is nearly set
+before adding more.
+
+Although fruits added to jellies in the way just described are chiefly
+for decorative effect, they do add very greatly to the pleasure of
+eating them; but jellied fruits, as distinguished from _fruits in
+jelly_, are a delicious mode of eating fruit, and where it is in
+abundance afford a pleasant variety.
+
+_Jellied Raspberries._--Melt two ounces of gelatine in a gill of water,
+squeeze half a pint of currant juice from fresh currants, and crush as
+many red raspberries as will with the liquid fill a quart measure. It is
+almost impossible to give definite directions for sugar, as fruits
+differ so much. Stir in six ounces, then if not sweet enough add more;
+mould the jelly, and serve with cream.
+
+This is also very nice put in a border mould, the centre filled with
+whipped cream.
+
+_Roman Punch Jellies._--These require stiff paper cases of any of the
+ornamental kinds used for ice-cream, but they must not flare. Make some
+maraschino or wine jelly. When it begins to set, pour the jelly into the
+cases, which must be on ice, so that half the fluid jelly may set before
+it has time to soak the case. When quite set, very carefully remove the
+centre, leaving a shell of jelly half an inch thick. The last thing
+before serving fill the centres with well-frozen Roman-punch ice.
+
+_A Macedoine_ of fruits, if well managed and a good assortment of
+fruits can be had, is a very ornamental way of serving fruit. A mould
+should have half an inch of maraschino, punch, wine, or lemon jelly
+poured into it; then some perfect strawberries, or, failing those, red
+cherries, as many as the jelly will hold together without crowding, no
+more; then more jelly, and a layer of fruit of another kind (white, if
+possible), as pineapple cut into stars--a number of small stars can be
+stamped out of a few thin slices--more jelly, and a ring of dark fruit.
+Take care that all the finest fruits are used to form the outer rows.
+When the mould is almost full, with a layer or two of each kind of
+fruit, fill it up with jelly and set on ice.
+
+Creams are a favorite sweet in Europe, and eaten ice cold are delicious.
+Too often they are confounded here with blanc-mange, which may mean
+anything from corn-starch and milk to gelatine and cream, but seldom is
+improved by the confectioner's art into a really handsome and dainty
+dish.
+
+_Ginger Cream._--Make a custard of a gill of milk, an ounce of powdered
+sugar, and the beaten yolks of three eggs. Stir in a double boiler until
+thick. Let it cool. Then add one gill of the syrup from a jar of
+preserved ginger, and cut up two ounces of the ginger; add three
+quarters of an ounce of gelatine melted in as little water as possible.
+Last of all, add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Mix gently and till
+well blended; pour into a mould, and set on ice.
+
+_Neapolitan Cream._--Make a custard of half a pint of milk, the yolks of
+four eggs, and a tablespoonful and a half of powdered sugar. Let it
+cool. Cut up three ounces of preserved ginger very small; cook it in a
+gill of ginger syrup for three minutes. Let it cool also. Decorate the
+mould with one ounce of dried cherries and leaves, etc., of jelly. Cut
+the cherries in half, glue them with a little melted jelly to the side
+and bottom of the mould; cut some jelly in thin slices, or melt it and
+let it run into thin sheets, which allow to chill, and stamp from them
+leaves, or whatever shapes you please. Glue these also to the side of
+the mould in the most effective way your taste can devise. Stir one
+ounce of gelatine melted in very little water, and half a pint of cream
+whipped solid, to the custard with which you have already mixed the
+ginger and syrup. Pour all into the decorated mould, put on ice, and
+when it is to be turned out wrap a cloth dipped in hot water round the
+mould; give it a smart slap on both sides, and it will turn out without
+difficulty.
+
+
+
+
+XXV.
+
+COLD SWEETS.--CREAMS.
+
+
+_Coffee Cream._--Make half a pint of custard with two eggs and half a
+pint of milk; dissolve an ounce of gelatine and three ounces of sugar in
+half a gill of strong coffee; add the custard, and strain; whip half a
+pint of cream quite firm; stir lightly into the custard; when it is
+cool, pour into a mould, and set on ice. The excellence of this cream
+depends on the coffee, which must be filtered, not boiled, freshly made,
+and very strong--three tablespoonfuls of coffee to the half-pint.
+
+_Curacoa Cream._--Make a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a
+pint of milk; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in as little liquid as
+possible; mix it with two ounces of powdered sugar; add to the custard;
+then stir in a generous glass of curacoa, and let the mixture cool,
+after which add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir very lightly
+together until well blended; then mould and set on ice.
+
+_Strawberry Cream._--Hull a pint of quite ripe strawberries; put them on
+a fine sieve, and sprinkle an ounce of sugar over them; put half an
+ounce of gelatine into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of cold water,
+two ounces and a half of powdered sugar, and the juice of a lemon, and
+let it dissolve by gentle heat. Pass the strawberries through the sieve;
+strain the gelatine, etc., to the strawberry juice, and put to get cold;
+then add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir very lightly to the
+strawberry juice, etc., when the latter is beginning to set.
+
+_Vanilla Cream._--Make a custard with three yolks and one white of egg,
+and half a pint of milk and three ounces of sugar; melt an ounce of
+gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of water, strain it to the custard, and
+mix well; whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth, and stir it
+gently to the custard and gelatine; flavor with vanilla. After the
+vanilla is added, make a couple of spoonfuls of the custard pink with
+cochineal or strawberry juice; let this cool in a thin sheet; stamp from
+it small clover leaves or lozenges, not over an inch long and three
+quarters broad; decorate the bottom of a mould with them, using a little
+gelatine and water to fasten them; set the mould in chopped ice, and
+about half-way up put four or five of the pink pieces; take great care
+there is no inequality as to height or distance (slovenly decoration is
+worse than none). When the lozenges are quite secure in their places,
+pour in the cream. It is needless to repeat this form of decoration of
+creams, they can be varied so infinitely by individual taste, but as a
+rule they should be decorated only with small forms cut out of
+bright-colored jelly, or of cream colored pink, orange, pistache green,
+or brown. Candied fruits are not effective, although sometimes used,
+unless the cream itself has fruit in it.
+
+_Pistache Cream._--Half an ounce of gelatine, two ounces of powdered
+sugar; melt the gelatine in a gill of water, then add the sugar, a glass
+of sherry, and a glass of kirsch. Whip half a pint of thick cream solid,
+and when the gelatine is cold and beginning to thicken stir the cream to
+it very lightly, and at the same time two ounces of pistachio-nuts,
+blanched and chopped fine, with enough vegetable green coloring to make
+the cream a shade or two lighter in color than the nuts. This cream must
+be stirred lightly on ice after the nuts are added, till thick enough
+for them not to sink.
+
+_Almond Cream._--Half an ounce of gelatine melted in a gill of water
+with two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry; grate four ounces of
+almond paste into it, and stir in a double boiler or bowl set in boiling
+water until dissolved, or at least until there are no lumps. Let this
+get cool. Whip a pint and a gill of cream solid, and stir to the
+mixture. Decorate a mould with any red jelly, pour the mixture in, and
+set on ice. In consequence of the variation in the strength of gelatine,
+in making any of these creams try a little on ice in a saucer before
+pouring into a mould, then add more cream or gelatine as required.
+
+_Cold Puddings and Frozen Puddings._--Some of these "puddings" might
+just as appropriately be called creams; however, fashion ordains that
+they shall be puddings. One of the newest is the
+
+_Jubilee Pudding._--Make a pint of claret jelly; pour it into a small
+border mould; whip half a pint of cream in which is a quarter of an
+ounce of dissolved gelatine. When it is whipped solid, stir in one ounce
+of preserved or candied cherries, one ounce of candied angelica, one
+ounce of preserved ginger, and one ounce of preserved apricot--the
+ginger and angelica cut small. Set on ice; then turn out. Pile the
+whipped cream and fruit in the centre, and decorate according to fancy.
+
+_Cold Souffle Pudding a la Princesse._--Melt half an ounce of gelatine
+in a gill of cream; set in boiling water till dissolved; beat the yolks
+of three eggs well, and add to the milk; when well mixed, put the
+custard into a double boiler till it thickens--it must not boil. Pour it
+into a bowl, and add a gill of apricot preserve, made into a puree by
+rubbing through a sieve with half a gill of orange juice, two ounces of
+sugar, a little lemon juice, and cochineal to color it a very delicate
+pink. Beat the whites of four eggs till they will not slip; stir them in
+very lightly with an upward motion of the spoon, the object being to
+keep the white of egg from falling, yet the whole must be thoroughly
+mixed. Stir till nearly cold before putting the souffle in a mould to
+set.
+
+_Imperial Rice Pudding._--Pour a quarter of a pint of clear white jelly
+into a quart mould, turning the mould about so that the jelly covers
+every part; this jelly serves to keep the ornaments in place. Cover the
+inside of the mould with an ounce of candied cherries split and half an
+ounce of angelica cut into thin rings. Stew a quarter of a pound of rice
+in a pint of milk till tender; when cool, add half a pint of whipped
+cream, a quarter of an ounce of gelatine melted in a little water, a
+quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. When
+it is all well mixed, turn the preparation into the mould, and set on
+ice. When firm, turn out of the mould, and serve with a puree of
+apricots.
+
+_Diplomatic Pudding._--Make a quart of custard in the following way: Put
+the yolks of four eggs and the white of one into a bowl, and mix well
+with a wooden spoon; stir in half a pint of milk, and strain all into a
+double boiler or a pitcher; add two ounces of sugar, and stand the
+pitcher (unless you have the double boiler) in a saucepan of boiling
+water, and stir the custard over the fire until it thickens, but it must
+not boil; remove from the fire; stir in a tablespoonful of brandy and a
+little vanilla. Line a plain mould with half a pint of wine jelly; this
+is done by pouring a little in at a time when it is half fluid, rolling
+the mould about on ice, and as soon as one coat adheres, pour in more,
+until the mould is evenly coated; decorate it with half an ounce of
+candied cherries and half an ounce of angelica--the cherries split and
+the angelica cut. Melt an ounce of gelatine and two ounces of sugar in a
+gill of water; stir it into the custard with a gill of thick cream; stir
+till cool; then add an ounce more cherries, half an ounce of angelica,
+and half an ounce of citron, all chopped small. Pour this gently into
+the mould you have decorated, set on ice, turn out and serve.
+
+_Cold Cabinet Pudding._--Ornament the bottom of a pint mould with
+candied cherries and angelica; split half a dozen lady-fingers; line the
+sides of the mould very evenly with them, arranging them alternately
+back and front against the mould; put in two ounces of ratafias (these
+are tiny macaroons about the size of a five-cent piece, of high flavor,
+and to be obtained at the pastry-cooks' who make foreign specialties;
+some grocers also import them); put four yolks of eggs into a bowl; stir
+them; then add half a pint of milk; pour this custard into a double
+boiler, and stir until it thickens, taking care that it does not curdle.
+Melt half an ounce of gelatine in a very little water; strain it to the
+custard. When the latter cools, add half a gill of thick, fresh cream,
+two ounces of sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla; mix all well, and
+pour carefully into the mould without disturbing the lining of cake. Put
+the mould on ice, and, when set, turn out and serve.
+
+
+
+
+XXVI.
+
+CREAMS AND FROZEN PUDDINGS.
+
+
+Nut creams, with the exception of almond, are not very well known, but
+are so delicious that they ought to be. One reason perhaps is that it is
+not generally known that kernels of nuts, such as hazel-nuts, walnuts,
+hickory-nuts, etc., can be bought by the pound at confectioners' supply
+stores. This, of course, saves the tedious work of cracking and
+shelling. To use with creams or for frozen puddings the nuts must be
+pounded very well, with very little white of egg--just enough to moisten
+and render the process easy.
+
+_Cocoanut Cream._--Grate a fresh, sweet cocoanut (having first peeled,
+washed, and wiped it _dry_); mix with it an ounce of sugar; melt in as
+little water as possible three quarters of an ounce of gelatine; whip
+the whites of three eggs, mix them with half a pint of milk, and stir
+over the fire until the custard thickens; sweeten with four
+tablespoonfuls of sugar. Stir the gelatine and a full half-pint of
+grated cocoanut with the cocoanut milk into the custard. Whip half a
+pint of thick cream solid, and stir it very carefully into the custard;
+when the latter is quite cold, but before it sets, flavor with a little
+vanilla or lemon extract. Mould and set on ice.
+
+_Hazel-nut Cream._--Put a pint of hazel-nut kernels into a cool oven
+until they are thoroughly dry and rather hot (they must not become too
+hot, or they will change flavor); then rub them between two coarse
+cloths to get rid of as much as possible of the skin (it cannot be
+entirely removed); blow away the loose hulls, and pound the nuts to a
+paste with a little white of egg. Make a custard with the yolks of three
+eggs and half a pint of milk; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a
+gill of water, mix with six ounces of powdered sugar, and add to the
+custard when nearly cool. Stir in the hazel-nut paste, taking care that
+it is well mixed with the custard, and add a half-pint of cream whipped
+solid; flavor with vanilla, or you may omit flavoring, the hazel-nut
+being sufficient for many people. Mould and set on ice.
+
+This cream and the two that follow are flecked with brown, for which
+reason it may be colored brown with caramel, although I prefer it
+uncolored, the specks being no more objectionable than the vanilla seeds
+one rejoices to see in ice-cream.
+
+_Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream._--Pound one pint of either of these nuts,
+after rubbing them well in a cloth, make the same custard as for
+hazel-nut cream, stir in the walnut or hickory-nut paste till smooth,
+add the whipped cream, color a pale pink with cochineal, and flavor
+faintly with rum or vanilla. Mould, set on ice, and serve with whipped
+cream flavored slightly with rum.
+
+_Bohemian Jelly Creams._--These may be made of any flavor, according to
+the jelly you use. It may be jelly of fruit or liqueur. If fresh fruit
+is used for jelly, the juice must be expressed, and well-sweetened
+gelatine added in the proportion of an ounce to the pint. If jam or
+marmalade is used, a pint of water is added and the same amount of
+gelatine, with the juice of half a lemon to the pint. Water, jam, and
+dissolved gelatine must be mixed quickly and passed through a sieve;
+either must be stirred in a bowl set in ice till quite cold and
+beginning to thicken; then stir in gently and quickly three-quarters of
+a pint of cream whipped solid; pour the mixture into the mould, which
+must be set in ice. Cover well, and keep on ice till needed.
+
+_Frangipanni Iced Pudding._--Grate six ounces of almond paste to crumbs;
+then on a smaller grater grate four or six bitter almonds blanched and
+dried; pound a dozen candied orange-flower petals with three-quarters of
+a pound of powdered sugar; put all into a stewpan with the yolks of
+eight eggs, and beat them very well together. In another stewpan have a
+pint and a half of boiling milk, which must be poured over the other
+ingredients by degrees, keeping them well stirred. Place it over the
+fire, stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon;
+rub this all through a coarse sieve, add a glass of sherry, and when
+cold pour the mixture into the freezer; when half frozen add a pint and
+a half of whipped cream, and when quite frozen fill a pudding mould,
+bury it in ice and salt, and serve as you would Nesselrode pudding.
+
+_Iced Cabinet Pudding._--Cut a stale sponge cake into slices half an
+inch thick and rather smaller than the mould you intend to use for the
+pudding; lay the slices of cake to soak in brandy flavored with noyau;
+decorate the bottom and sides of the mould with candied fruits, split
+cherries, angelica rings, the same of green oranges, and little diamonds
+of ginger, with a few whole ratafias, dipping them in jelly to make
+them adhere; lay in one slice of cake, then cherries and ratafias,
+another slice of cake, and so on, until the mould is three parts full.
+Make a quart of custard with six yolks of eggs, three tablespoonfuls of
+sugar, and an ounce of gelatine; when this is cold pour part into the
+mould, which must close hermetically; pack it in salt and ice for at
+least two hours; when you wish to turn it out, dip it a minute in
+lukewarm water. Keep the remaining custard on ice, flavor it with sherry
+or rum, beat it up, pour it around the pudding, and strew it with
+chopped pistachio-nuts.
+
+_Ice Pudding._--Make a custard with a pint and a half of milk, one whole
+egg and the yolks of four others, and a quarter of a pound of sugar;
+when cold, add half a glass of brandy, a glass of maraschino, an ounce
+of citron cut fine, a quarter of a pound of dried fruits, and an ounce
+of pistachio-nuts, the fruits cut up in small pieces, the pistachio-nuts
+blanched and split; mix well; and lastly add half a pint of whipped
+cream. When well frozen, pack into a pudding mould, and bury in ice and
+salt till wanted.
+
+_Bombay Ice Pudding._--Line a plain mould with Roman-punch ice an inch
+thick, keeping it bedded nearly to the brim in ice and salt while you do
+it; then fill the centre with the following mixture: a pint of cocoanut
+grated very fine, mixed with a pint of ice-cream; take great care that
+the cocoanut is ice-cold before you mix it in, or it will melt the
+ice-cream. When the mould is filled within an inch of the top, cover it
+with Roman punch, close the mould hermetically, and bury in ice. These
+puddings, where two kinds of ice are used, must only be attempted after
+one has learned to pack plain ice-cream with success.
+
+_Iced Jelly Pudding._--Make a custard with a pint of boiling cream,
+three ounces of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs beaten; pour the cream
+to the eggs very carefully, stirring it in by degrees. Have ready a
+quarter of an ounce of gelatine dissolved in very little milk, mix it
+in, and put the vessel containing the custard in a stewpan of boiling
+water, and stir till it just thickens; then whisk it until nearly cold.
+Mask a quart mould with jelly an inch thick--any favorite _red_ jelly,
+or a pale one tinted. Directions have already been given how the inside
+of a mould is to be coated with jelly. There is an easier but
+extravagant way, namely, to fill the mould with jelly, then scoop out
+the centre neatly, leaving a shell of jelly an inch thick. The centre,
+of course, might be made hot and bottled for another occasion, or to
+make Bohemian cream jellies. When the mould is masked, fill it with the
+custard, which must be half frozen; then cover securely, and pack in ice
+and salt at least five hours before it is served.
+
+
+
+
+XXVII.
+
+ICED PUDDINGS.
+
+
+_Filbert and Wine Iced Pudding._--To one pint of cream put four
+tablespoonfuls of sugar and two glasses of fine sherry. The cream must
+be perfectly sweet, but should be at least twenty-four hours old, and be
+ice cold. Whip this solid; then freeze. Put a pint of filberts in a cool
+oven till the skins will nearly all rub off; put them between two coarse
+cloths, and rub as much as possible of the brown coating off them; pound
+them to a paste with a little thick cream, mix four ounces of sugar with
+the nuts, and then blend the whole with enough thick custard to make a
+very thick batter; flavor with lemon or vanilla, or not, as you choose;
+freeze. Line a plain mould with the frozen wine cream an inch thick;
+then fill in the centre with the frozen filberts well pressed in; cover
+tight, and pack in ice and salt for three hours, or until wanted. This
+pudding can be made of walnuts and port-wine cream.
+
+_Iced Custard with Fruit._--Flavor one pint of cream with any liqueur
+you prefer; beat twelve eggs thoroughly; strain them; boil the cream
+with five ounces of sugar, and when it is just off the boil pour it,
+little by little, to the eggs; add a quarter of an ounce of gelatine
+that has been dissolved in very little water and strained to the
+custard; whisk until cold; have ready a mould masked with candied
+fruits. To mask, set the mould in a pan of cracked ice, and dip each
+piece of fruit in strong melted jelly; build up from the bottom of the
+mould having all the fruits, cut about the thickness of a split candied
+cherry and near the size, arranged with a view to a good effect when the
+mould shall be turned out. Half freeze the custard, and pour it in the
+mould three inches high; throw in some of the trimmings of candied
+fruit chopped fine. When set, add more custard, then more fruit, until
+the mould is full. Let it stand in ice at least five hours before it is
+wanted.
+
+_Rice a la Princesse._--Let some rice swell in water until quite tender;
+proportion, one cup of rice to two (scant) of water; then butter a
+saucepan; put the rice into it, with half a pint of milk; let it stew
+gently till it will mash; the milk must have all been absorbed; sweeten
+with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Mix with this a gill of apricot jam,
+a teaspoonful of vanilla, and half a pint of whipped cream; freeze; when
+well frozen, pack in a mould and bury in ice and salt. Pound a dozen
+macaroons; stir them into a pint of whipped cream; let the mixture be
+put on ice. When the pudding is turned out of the mould, cover with the
+macaroon cream, and decorate the dish with cubes of peach or apricot
+jelly.
+
+_Chocolate Cream Pudding._--Boil a quarter of a pound of the finest
+vanilla chocolate in half a pint of milk, whisking it well till it
+boils; dissolve in it two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Beat three
+half-pints of cream and three tablespoonfuls of sugar solid while the
+chocolate cools; when it is _ice_ cold mix in one half the beaten cream,
+and freeze. Line a plain mould with the frozen chocolate (the remainder
+of the whipped cream should have been kept in cracked ice and salt, so
+as to be ice cold); fill up the centre of the mould with the cream,
+cover tight, and bury in salt and ice.
+
+_Ice-Creams and Ices._--There are so many ways of making ice-cream, that
+all one can do is to indicate the one or two best, and certainly the
+_very_ best is the simplest, and there is no dessert so easy to prepare
+in hot weather as this, since there is no work over the fire. The only
+trouble is breaking the ice and turning the machine for some twenty
+minutes, which can be done by a child.
+
+_Simplest Fruit Ice-Cream._--Mash two pounds of strawberries or
+raspberries, put to them half a pound of powdered sugar, and let them
+remain in a cold place two or three hours, so that the juice may run;
+then, strain the juice to a quart of thick sweet cream and another half
+pound of sugar, with the juice of half a lemon; stir, and pour cream and
+fruit juice into the freezer, which must be packed with ice and
+rock-salt in about equal quantities, the ice being broken quite small.
+Let the cream remain standing in the freezer a few minutes before you
+begin to turn; then freeze, letting off the water, and filling anew with
+ice and salt if necessary. Stir the cream down as it forms, and keep on
+turning five or ten minutes after it is actually necessary. This extra
+working insures that extreme smoothness characteristic of Italian and
+French ice-cream. If you are not expert in freezing, be satisfied not to
+pack your cream in a mould for the first few times. Take out the paddle
+of the freezer, press the ice compactly down in the freezer, cover, and
+see that the ice and salt are sufficient and free from water. In two
+hours you can turn the ice out of the freezer in a round column or loaf
+that will be quite as sightly as the oblong square one frequently gets
+from the caterer. Many people think that simply freezing the pure cream
+produces the loose, frothy cream found at inferior confectioners', but
+this is not the case; pure cream frozen results in a firm smooth mass
+which cuts like butter.
+
+I have given the formula for raspberry and strawberry cream only, but
+any fruit juice may be substituted, varying the quantity of sugar as
+required.
+
+When it is desirable to freeze the fruit in the cream instead of the
+juice, it must not be added until the cream is frozen. Stir in
+raspberries, strawberries, chopped pineapple, banana, or peaches just
+before the ice is ready to pack down; otherwise the fruit, being full of
+water, will freeze into hard knots.
+
+_Tutti-frutti Ice-Cream_ being made from chopped candied fruit, this
+precaution is not necessary; the fruit may be added at any time during
+the freezing, or stirred in last, as you please.
+
+I have given the simplest and best method of making ice-cream, yet the
+way most in use is to add custard; and French cooks always use "meringue
+paste," claiming that it insures a smoothness and lightness nothing else
+can give.
+
+_Custard for Ice-Cream._--This is made as any other custard, except that
+double the amount of sugar is allowed for everything that is to be
+frozen. It may be made of from three to six eggs to a pint of milk, as
+you prefer. This must be ice cold before you put it in the freezer.
+
+_Ice-Cream with Eggs._--One pint of milk, three eggs, leaving out one
+white, half a pound of sugar (if acid fruit is to be added, it may
+require more for some tastes). Make a custard of these materials, and
+half freeze it; then add a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir in well and
+finish freezing, turning the handle some few minutes after it gets
+pretty stiff, if there is a strong enough hand near to do it.
+
+In making varieties of ice-cream you have only to consider the fitness
+of the articles you use; for instance, any sort of fruit may be added,
+with the exception of lemons. Fleshy fruits, such as pineapple, peaches,
+pears, etc., are usually mixed with the cream uncooked in this country;
+abroad this is only done with soft fruits, such as raspberries,
+blackberries, oranges, and such as will mash through a colander. Others
+are very slightly stewed in rich syrup (as nearly their own juice as
+possible), then pulped and mixed through when the cream is nearly
+frozen.
+
+In winter, fruit jams, and especially jellies, are very pleasant in
+ice-cream; they always require a little lemon juice to restore some of
+the natural sharpness of fresh fruit. A tumbler of red currant jelly
+turned into a pint of ice-cream is delicious, and gives a pretty, faint
+pink tint. The method is just the same whether for custard and cream or
+cream alone.
+
+The meringue paste alluded to as used by foreign confectioners is made
+by beating the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar
+until stiff.
+
+_Grilled Almond Ice-Cream._--Make a quart of ice-cream; grill some
+almonds in the following way: Blanch four ounces of almonds, dry them in
+a hot spot till they are brittle; then put in a thick saucepan or saute
+pan four ounces of sugar and a gill of water; let them boil five
+minutes; throw in the almonds; stir them till part of the sugar adheres
+and they begin to turn yellow. Take them up, chop them, and when quite
+cold stir them into the ice-cream, which should be flavored with
+vanilla.
+
+
+
+
+XXVIII.
+
+ICE-CREAMS AND WATER-ICES.
+
+
+To those very fond of tea, ice-cream made with it is very acceptable,
+and is very much used at English garden parties.
+
+_Tea Ice-Cream._--To one pound of granulated sugar put a pint of strong
+green tea, a pint and a half of cream, and two quarts of rich milk, and
+a very little cinnamon water. Let the whole simmer one minute, not
+stirring, but keeping the mixture in motion by gently swinging the
+saucepan. Freeze as usual. This recipe may be used for coffee and
+chocolate; it will make a large quantity, and for a medium-sized family
+one quarter will suffice.
+
+_Chinese Ice._--Beat the yolks of fifteen eggs with three quarters of a
+pound of powdered sugar; pound four ounces of pistachio-nuts (blanched)
+with the white of an egg; put to it three gills of water; stir it over
+the fire in a double boiler till it is as thick as cream; take great
+care that it does not boil. Color it green, or part green and part
+yellow; flavor as you please; cut up a couple of candied Chinese oranges
+small and a little preserved ginger, and freeze.
+
+_Water-Ices._--These are exceedingly simple, and no more elegant form of
+refreshment can be offered than a plate of well-frozen or a tumbler of
+half-frozen water-ice. It is acceptable when ice-cream would be too
+heavy, and can be offered at the simplest country afternoon tea, or
+during a call, without the seeming ostentation of ice-cream.
+
+_Ginger Water-Ice_ (to serve as a beverage if preferred).--Take six
+ounces of preserved ginger, free from fibre; pound it; make two quarts
+of lemonade by paring eight or ten lemons so thinly that the knife-blade
+shows through the yellow; put the peel of three in a pitcher with a
+pound and a quarter of sugar; pour two quarts of boiling water on them,
+and cover; squeeze and strain the juice from the lemons, add to the
+water, and when cold stir in the pounded ginger, with the meringue paste
+made with the whites of four eggs. Freeze it. If for drinking, only half
+freeze, work only enough to make it like half-melting snow, and use only
+sugar enough to make a refreshing drink. Italians call this _granito_,
+and it is a form of ice not often met with in this country.
+
+_Pineapple Water-Ice._--This can be readily made of canned pineapple
+when the fresh fruit is out of season. Peel a pineapple; grate it into a
+mortar; then pound it well with six ounces of sugar; let it stand
+covered for an hour; add the juice of five oranges, and a pint and a
+half of syrup boiled to the little thread, or _a lisse_. (This syrup is
+much used in making water-ices, punches, etc. It is sugar and water
+boiled till it forms a little thread between thumb and finger.) Mix well
+and freeze. If canned fruit is used, you need less sugar, and
+substitute lemon for half the orange juice.
+
+_Almond Water-Ice._--Take one pound of almond paste, a pint and a half
+of water, and three quarters of a pound of sugar; grate the paste; then
+stir till quite dissolved. Flavor with vanilla or raspberry; stir in the
+whites of two eggs and some candied fruits cut up small. Freeze as
+usual.
+
+_Cinnamon Water-Ice._--This is a German ice, and very much liked by
+those who are fond of the flavor. Pound an ounce of the finest quality
+of cinnamon in the stick, put it into a pint and a half of boiling
+water, and cover it well; when it is cold add a quart of syrup (the
+little thread) and the well-beaten whites of two eggs, and freeze it.
+
+_Pistachio Water-Ice._--Blanch and pound a pound of pistachio-nuts,
+using the white of an egg to moisten; mix with a quart of syrup _a
+lisse_. Heighten the color, if too pale, with spinach coloring, and
+flavor to taste. (Pistachio-nuts have no flavor of their own,
+astonishing as the fact may seem to those who have heard frequently of
+pistachio flavor.) Freeze as usual.
+
+_Apricot Water-Ice._--There is no more delicious water-ice than this if
+fine-flavored apricots are used. The canned ones are excellent for the
+purpose. Pulp two pounds of apricots through a sieve or jelly press;
+grate or pound very fine five or six bitter almonds; mix with the pulp
+the juice of the apricots (from the can), and a pint and a half of
+syrup, and the beaten whites of three eggs made into a paste with three
+tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar; stir all well, and freeze. This ice
+ought to be the color of apricots; if too pale, add a very little
+saffron coloring.
+
+_Currant Water-Ice._--A pint of currant juice, a pint of syrup, and the
+whites of three eggs made into meringue paste. Freeze as usual. Any of
+these water-ices can be half frozen as _graniti_, and served in glasses
+as _granito_, the only exceptions being the almond and pistachio
+water-ices.
+
+_Graniti_ are also made of various kinds of light punches by adding to a
+quart of the usual punch recipe a quart of sweetened water. Any summer
+beverage made from fruit juice can be turned into a _granito_, by half
+freezing, in either of the following ways:
+
+_To Freeze Graniti._--Mix the beverage you intend to freeze, for
+instance, we will say, a pint of very strong, clear, bright coffee and
+half a pint of syrup _a lisse_. Put them into the freezer and turn; as
+it becomes frozen up the sides, scrape it down with a spoon, and
+remember, as soon as it resembles snowy water (not white, of course) it
+is frozen enough. It must be just liquid enough to pour out.
+
+There is a second way of freezing _graniti_ by which they can be put on
+the table in the vessel in which they were frozen. Place the mixture in
+wide-mouthed water-bottles, twirl them round in ice and salt, and, as
+the contents become frozen on the inside of the bottle, scrape down
+with a narrow wooden stick or spatula. When frozen in perfection the
+bottle should seem half filled with tiny crystals.
+
+_Claret Granito._--To one pint of orangeade add a bottle of claret. Half
+freeze.
+
+_Sherry Granito._--To one quart of lemonade add a bottle of sherry, and
+freeze.
+
+The housekeeper who lives far from a large city will need materials for
+many of the recipes given in these papers and others which she will meet
+with in books on high-class cooking. Many of these can be sent for by
+mail, and all, of course, by express; but it will often not seem worth
+while to send perhaps for one small bottle that we may lack. For this
+reason I give a few directions for preparing very tolerable imitations
+of liqueurs, which, however, unless it were a question of economy, it
+might not be worth while doing if within reach of stores.
+
+_Curacoa._--Pare a dozen and a half of dead-ripe oranges so thin that
+you can see the knife pass under the rind; pound one dram of finest
+cinnamon and half a dram of mace; put them to steep for fifteen days in
+a gallon of pure alcohol, shaking it every day. Make a clarified syrup
+of four pounds of sugar and one quart of water well boiled and skimmed;
+add this to the curacoa. Rub up in a mortar one dram of potash with a
+teaspoonful of the liqueur; when well mixed add it, and then do the same
+with a dram of alum. Shake well, and in an hour or two filter through
+thin muslin. It will be ready for use in a a week.
+
+_Maraschino._--Bruise two ounces of cherry kernels and one of bitter
+almonds; put them in a deep jar with the thin outer rind of twelve
+oranges and five lemons. Steep in one gallon of English gin or alcohol.
+Let the whole stand a fortnight, then filter and bottle.
+
+_Ratafia._--Blanch the kernels of uncooked peaches or apricots, and when
+you have two ounces pound them, and pour to them a quart of gin or
+alcohol and the thin yellow rind of two lemons. Sweeten with a pound of
+white sugar-candy, and leave the whole for two months; then filter and
+bottle for use.
+
+_Candied Orange and Lemon Peels._--These are invaluable both as
+decoration for certain desserts and for culinary purposes, and as they
+are not always to be found except in the larger cities, the method of
+preparing them is here given: Throw the peels into salt and water, all
+pulp being removed, but the white part must be left untouched; in fact,
+the thicker the peel the better for the purpose, thin-skinned oranges
+being of no use for candying. Let them remain in the salt and water from
+nine days to three weeks; then wash them, put them on the fire in cold
+water, and let them boil till perfectly tender, yet they must not be
+mushy. During the time they are boiling change the water until it no
+longer tastes salt. Lemon-peels may take from three to four hours'
+boiling, orange-peels less; but remember, should the lemon-peel not be
+quite tender, it will harden when it goes into syrup, and instead of a
+rich sweetmeat there will be only woody chips. Drain the peels, and make
+a thin syrup of a pint of water to each pound of sugar. Let it boil five
+minutes; then throw in the peels; they must boil gently in this until
+they are clear and the syrup has become thick--almost boiled away, in
+fact. Now make another syrup, half a pint of water to two pounds of
+sugar; let it boil till clear and till there is a short hair from the
+fork. Now put in the peels (which must have been drained from the other
+syrup); remove from the fire; stir them round till the syrup looks
+whitish; then lift each piece out and lay it on a dish on which
+granulated sugar has been freely sprinkled.
+
+Both orange and lemon peels are candied by the same process, but they
+must never be put in the same vessel of salt and water, nor must they be
+candied together, or the distinctive flavors would be lost.
+
+
+
+
+XXIX.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.
+
+
+Under this head I intend to give a few sweets that seem to me unusually
+good, although they may not always be novel, except in manner of
+serving. A compote of fruit has nothing new about it, yet by the way in
+which it is served it may simply be "stewed fruit," or it may be a dish
+fit to find a place even in choice cookery.
+
+In making compotes great care must be taken to preserve the shape and
+color of the fruits. In order to do this they must be quickly peeled and
+dipped into strong lemon juice and water, and dropped into syrup in
+which also a little lemon juice has been squeezed. Pass the blade of the
+knife over its own marks to obliterate the appearance of peeling.
+Peaches and apricots may be boiled up without peeling, and (unless they
+are allowed to get too soft) the skins will be removed easily. It will
+be observed that hard fruits such as apples are simmered in thin syrup
+to get tender, while rich soft fruits are dropped into syrup boiled to
+candy height.
+
+_Apple Compote_ No. 1.--Cut up and boil half a dozen apples in a pint of
+water. When they are quite soft strain the juice from them without
+squeezing; put to it half a pound of granulated sugar and the zest of a
+lemon (the zest is the peel so thin that the knife blade can be seen,
+through it while paring), together with the juice. Let this syrup boil
+for a minute; skim it. Then pare half a dozen fine cooking apples; core
+them; let them boil gently in the syrup until quite tender, but not in
+danger of breaking. Take them up on a perforated skimmer. When cold, put
+the apples into a compote dish. Boil the juice to a jelly; pour part of
+it over the apples; dip a plate in cold water, drain it, and then pour
+out the rest of the jelly into it: it should only cover it about the
+thickness of thick paper. When stiff, warm the under-side of the plate
+_very slightly_, pass a broad thin knife under, and lay the sheet of
+jelly over the apples in the compote dish.
+
+_Apple Compote_ No. 2.--Prepare the apples as in last recipe, but before
+the last sheet of jelly is laid over them ornament with rings and leaves
+of angelica, and any red jelly or preserve cut in thin slices and
+stamped out with tiny tin cutters in leaves, stars, or fancy shapes
+(stiff red currant jelly of red quince may be used); decorate thus each
+apple; then lay the thin sheet of apple jelly over all.
+
+_Compote of Stuffed Apples._--Prepare the apples as in the foregoing
+recipes, taking care to core them all through without splitting the
+apple. When the apples are done, fill the centre with orange marmalade
+or apricot preserve. Boil the syrup down till it will glaze; pour it
+over the apples when they are ice-cold, the syrup also only warm enough
+to remain liquid. By this means the rich coating will remain over the
+apples, while if both were warm it would run off.
+
+_Compote of Apples or Pears Grille._--If you have any apples or pears
+left from a compote (or you may, of course, prepare them especially),
+put them into a frying or saute pan over a brisk fire; put with them any
+syrup there may be and a cup of sugar just dissolved in water; boil
+rapidly down to a pale caramel, rolling the apples with a fork so that
+they become covered with the caramel. Take great care that the syrup
+does not burn; remove it from the fire the moment it begins to change
+color. The apples should now have an even glossy surface; as each is
+finished put it at once into the compotier. Pour a little curacoa syrup
+round just before sending to table.
+
+_Compote of Apple Marmalade._--This is not so troublesome to make as it
+sounds, especially to any one who has made glace nuts--a very general
+accomplishment nowadays. Reduce some apple marmalade by leaving it for
+an hour or two in a double boiler; the water boiling round it will
+evaporate moisture without danger of burning. Stir occasionally, and
+when the marmalade is so reduced that it will make a firm paste when
+cold (try a little in a saucer on ice), color one half pink with
+cochineal. Spread half an inch thick on plates slightly oiled; when
+stiff and cold, cut out the marmalade into squares, ovals, diamonds,
+leaves, etc., with tin cutters. Boil a pound of sugar with a gill of
+water to the crack--that is, until a teaspoonful dropped in ice-water
+will crack between the teeth. Oil a fork and a large dish, and use the
+fork to drop the pieces of marmalade into the candy; lift them out
+quickly, and lay them on the dish, which will be better if it is set on
+ice. When they are cold, dish them in a pyramid, the pink to contrast
+with the white effectively. Pour a little liqueur-flavored syrup round
+the base of the fruit.
+
+_Compote of Pears (white)._--Use any fine-flavored dessert pears. Cut
+them in halves, core, pare, and trim neatly, and simmer them in syrup (a
+pound of sugar and juice of half a lemon to a pint of water) till they
+are tender, yet firm to the touch. Dish the pieces, keeping them close
+to each other. Lay a thin sheet of apple jelly over them, and the syrup,
+boiled down till rich and thick, round them.
+
+_A Pink Compote_ is prepared in the same way, the only difference being
+that a very few drops of cochineal are added to the syrup before the
+pears go in. Decorate with angelica.
+
+_Pears a la Princesse._ Select seven pears of the best quality, without
+blemish, and of equal size; pare them with great care; stand them close
+together in a saucepan, with weak acidulated syrup to cover them; simmer
+slowly till quite tender, but yet firm to the touch; take them up,
+leaving the syrup to boil down. When cold, cut the stalk end off each
+pear about an inch deep, or so as to leave about an inch of surface, on
+which place a ring of angelica (simply cut angelica crosswise and it
+forms rings, being tubular); if the rings are flattened, lay them in
+syrup; when softened bend them round and lay one on each pear; then, if
+in season, dip a fine strawberry or stoned red cherry in the hot syrup
+and lay it on the ring of angelica. Cut strips of angelica and run them
+through the strawberry down to the pear, both to hold the decoration in
+place and to represent the stalk; dish them standing; when dished up,
+pour some syrup, boiled till thick and rich, over the seven pears. When
+fresh fruit is not in season for decoration, use candied cherries.
+
+_Variegated Compote of Pears._--This is a pretty dish. Prepare some
+pears as in the last recipe, except that the tops are not to be cut off;
+color half the number a pale pink by adding a few drops of cochineal to
+the syrup in which they are simmered; dress them alternately, a pink
+pear and a white one, in the compotier; pour over each the pink and
+white syrup in which they were cooked, and pour syrup flavored with
+vanilla round them.
+
+_Compote of Oranges._--Divide six oranges in halves; first cut out the
+centre string of pith, pick all pips out carefully, and with a very
+sharp knife pare off the peel of the orange down to the naked
+transparent pulp; in this way you get rid of the whole of the white
+outside skin. Place the halves as you do them in a bowl; pour over them
+some hot syrup boiled _a lisse_, flavored with orange peel, rubbed with
+lump sugar, and previously dissolved in the syrup; a very little lemon
+juice should be added if the oranges are very sweet. Let them steep a
+few minutes; then remove them; then build the oranges into a pyramid on
+the compotier, and the last thing before going to table pour the syrup,
+well boiled and cold, over them.
+
+_Chestnut Compote._--Take the largest French or Spanish chestnuts, make
+slits in the peel, and boil till tender; take off the shell, and press
+them flat without breaking; lay them in a saucepan; pour over them
+thick syrup; put them in the oven, but do not let them boil; when they
+look quite clear take them up, put them into the compotier, boil the
+syrup to candy height, squeeze into the compotier the juice of an
+orange, and pour the candy over the chestnuts.
+
+_Chestnut Compote_ No. 2.--Prepare the nuts as in last recipe; put the
+yolks of three eggs in a saucepan; stir gradually to them a pint of
+cream; cook a quarter of a pound of sugar to the crack, with a few dried
+orange flowers; the minute the candy begins to get yellowish pour it
+into the cream, stirring constantly, and let it come to boiling-point;
+then strain the cream over the chestnuts.
+
+
+
+
+XXX.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.--_Continued._
+
+
+Strawberries, raspberries, currants, etc., need very little cooking, and
+that little in high candy. If it is understood that strong syrup tends
+to make fruit firm, and weak syrup to make it tender, it will be seen
+why all soft fruit, in order to keep its shape, should be dropped into
+candy boiled till brittle, and why apples and other hard fruits should
+be first stewed in weak syrup until soft; yet there are degrees; for
+instance, hard peaches require thin syrup, and very luscious ones must
+be put into syrup that is very near candy. This is also the case with
+pears. Be guided as to the strength of the syrup by the kind of fruit.
+Avoid fruit that is very ripe, because the syrup from it will not jelly
+readily.
+
+_Compote of Strawberries._--Select a quart of fine large berries, rather
+under than over ripe; boil three quarters of a pound of sugar to the
+crack; drop the strawberries into the syrup after it is removed from the
+fire; return them to the range; let them boil gently once; take out the
+berries most carefully with the skimmer; lay them on the compotier; boil
+the syrup fast, skimming it carefully then pour it over the fruit.
+
+_Compote of Cherries_ is made in the same way, with the finest red
+cherries, only they require to boil up several times. When clear, drain
+them with the skimmer; lay them in the compote dishes; add a gill of red
+currant juice to the syrup; boil it till it is a weak jelly; then throw
+it over the cherries when nearly cold.
+
+_Orange Baskets Filled with Fruits._--Select seven oranges, not too
+large, but all the same size. With a very sharp knife pare the fruit as
+thin as possible--so thin that it still remains yellow, and only the
+shining outer surface is removed (in fact, it may be lightly grated
+off, but that is more trouble), to render them transparent; cut two
+quarters out of the upper part of the orange, so as to leave a narrow
+band half an inch wide, which will form the handle; pass the knife
+carefully round inside the band, so as to remove the strip of pulp. With
+the bowl of a teaspoon detach the remaining pulp from the inside without
+in any way damaging the shape of the basket. As you prepare them, drop
+them in a saucepan of cold water, and then put them into boiling water,
+and simmer three minutes gently. This is only to soften the peel and
+enable you to stamp out the edges with a perforating cutter, if you have
+one, which will give them an openwork effect; if not, just scallop them
+with scissors, and snip out a sort of trellis-work to increase the
+basket effect. Put them into a preserving-kettle with weak syrup _a
+lisse_, boil them gently till they look clear, then put them aside in
+the syrup till next day; boil the syrup twice alone at intervals of
+several hours, and throw it over the baskets. These baskets may be kept
+ready prepared for months by putting them in wide jars and covering them
+with syrup. When required for use, they must be taken out, drained
+thoroughly, and then filled with a variety of small fruits, such as
+cherries, strawberries, currants, etc., which have been mixed with a
+little apple or orange jelly. In winter, ambrosia--a mixture of cut-up
+banana, grated cocoa-nut, orange quarters, etc.--may be served in them,
+or a mixture of preserved fruits that are firm, such as Chinese oranges,
+limes, ginger, etc. In all cases serve them on a compote dish, and throw
+over them syrup flavored with maraschino.
+
+_Lemon Baskets_ are prepared precisely as the orange baskets, but they
+require longer boiling, and the syrup they are served with should be
+flavored with citronelle or the rasped peel of green limes.
+
+_Orange Baskets Glace._--These are not much more trouble than the
+baskets simply preserved, but if successfully done they can be very
+effectively filled with candies or ice-cream. Prepare the baskets as in
+last recipe, drain them on a napkin, very carefully remove all moisture
+from the inside, and set them over a register, or in an oven with the
+door open, to dry. Boil two pounds of sugar with a pint of water and two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar till it begins to change color (this is some
+little time after the brittle stage is reached, and is called caramel);
+lightly oil the skimmer, and drop a basket in the candy; remove as
+quickly as possible, but see that the whole is well coated, yet has as
+little superfluous candy as possible, for which reason the baskets must
+be warm when they are dipped, also the skimmer. You must not leave the
+candy on the fire after it _begins_ to change color, but the work of
+coating the baskets had better be done quite near the fire, with the pot
+containing the candy on some part of it where it will be kept hot, but
+not cook. They must be slipped on to an oiled dish, and, needless to
+say, most carefully handled.
+
+Other baskets are made with nougat, others with pastry, and the Swiss
+make what they call _Vacherin_ with almond paste, and serve whipped
+cream in them; but the idea may be extended and improved upon by serving
+dried fruits or candies, or ice-cream in them, and they are a decided
+improvement on the paper baskets so often used for the last purpose,
+being eatable.
+
+_Swiss Vacherin._--Take half a pound of almond paste, three quarters of
+a pound of confectioners' sugar, and the white of one egg. Shave the
+almond paste, stir the egg and sugar together, and flavor with a little
+orange-flower water or wine; work all together with the hand into a
+smooth, stiff paste that will roll out; if there is a disposition to
+crack or crumble, use more white of egg and almond paste. Roll it just
+as you would pie crust on the pastry board, using confectioners' sugar
+in place of flour. Line small cups or tartlet moulds, or anything that
+will make a good form for baskets, which have been very slightly oiled.
+Put them aside to harden and dry. Chop a tablespoonful of blanched
+pistachio-nuts till they are as fine as corn-meal, mix with an equal
+quantity of granulated sugar. Trim the edges of the cups or baskets with
+scissors, turn them out of the moulds, very carefully dip the edges in a
+saucer containing white of egg beaten to liquid--the edges only need to
+be just wet. Have the chopped pistachio-nuts and sugar also in a saucer,
+dip the wet edge of the cup lightly into it, and shake gently. If
+properly done, the cups will now have a pretty green border. When these
+are filled with whipped cream, sweetened, flavored, and colored, they
+are called _Swiss Vacherin_. Filled with plain whipped cream, and the
+top covered with strawberries, they are called "Chantilly cups," but
+they may be used in many decorative ways, to hold preserves or candied
+fruits, etc., etc.
+
+_Little China Dishes._--This quaint recipe is from the immortal Mrs.
+Glasse, and on trial was found so unique and agreeable a variety to our
+modern fancies that with some little changes to suit our present ideas I
+give the last-century dainty. If you have any pretty-shaped little tin
+dishes, without fluting, to mould and bake them in, they are very little
+trouble to make. Take the yolks of two eggs, two small tablespoonfuls of
+sherry, and one of rose-water, beat together only enough to mix, then
+use as much fine flour as will make a firm paste that can be rolled out
+exceedingly thin. Cover some nicely shaped little tins slightly
+buttered, press to the form, be careful the paste fits without creases,
+and bake in a cool oven. When the paste is crisp, with very little
+change of color, they are done. Do not touch them till they are cold, as
+they may be brittle. Stir the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of
+rose-water and confectioners' sugar enough to make a smooth icing;
+squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and when the little dishes are
+cold, ice the under side only just thick enough to mask the pastry; when
+they are dry and hard, turn them over and ice the inside; do this with
+great smoothness, to look as much like porcelain as possible. If you
+choose, when the icing is quite hard, you can wet the edge of the dishes
+with white of egg and dip them in chopped pistachio-nuts and sugar, like
+the Chantilly baskets, or in nonpareils (the smallest size). They may be
+used to serve anything sweet, from jelly to candies.
+
+_Almond Trifles._--With the almond paste used for Chantilly cups many
+trifles may be made with very little trouble; for instance, mix a
+tablespoonful of flour with the paste; roll it out; cut into circles;
+pinch up two sides; place a little handle over the centre, and in each
+open end, which must be bent slightly upward, place a candied cherry.
+Or cut a number of thin strips of paste, stick them together in the
+middle with white of egg, pass a strip of almond paste round so that the
+strips look like fagots of sticks, let them just color in the oven, sift
+sugar over them, and put them away. The paste may be rolled as thick as
+a pipe-stem and tied in knots, the surface just moistened, and sugar
+sifted over them; these also must only just take color in the oven.
+These are only suggestions for using up the trimmings from the cups.
+
+
+
+
+XXXI.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS.--_Continued._
+
+
+_Raspberry Charlotte Russe._--The simplest and quite the most effective
+way of making charlottes of any kind is the following: Take a strip of
+light cartridge or drawing paper from two to three inches wide, measure
+it round a mould the size you wish the charlotte to be, and cut it an
+inch larger; piece the two ends together, lapping an inch. Lay this
+paper circle on an ornamental dish (the one you wish to use), split
+lady-fingers, and stand them around it inside like a picket-fence, only
+as close together as they will go, inserting a pin from the outside
+through the paper and each cake as you do it. When you have lined the
+paper completely you will have a close frame of lady-fingers held in
+place by pins. Whip a pint of _perfectly sweet_ cream that is at least
+twenty-four hours old and has been thoroughly chilled on ice. Sweeten
+the cream with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and flavor it with
+a tablespoonful of raspberry _juice_ (not syrup) mixed with a
+tablespoonful of powdered sugar; sometimes the raspberry juice will
+color the cream a beautiful faint pink, which cannot be improved upon,
+but if it is not bright enough in tint stir in one or two drops of
+cochineal. If the weather is warm stand the vessel containing the cream
+in ice; then beat without stopping to skim the froth as it rises. In
+about ten to fifteen minutes the cream ought to be perfectly solid if
+all the conditions were observed, and the beating carried on in a cool,
+airy room. If, however, the cream is not solid enough to keep shape, set
+it on ice for an hour and beat again. Fill the centre of the frame of
+lady-fingers, piling it high; decorate either with chopped
+pistachio-nuts lightly sprinkled, or with rings of angelica. The
+raspberry _juice_ used for flavoring is to be obtained at first-class
+druggists', where the best quality of soda-water is sold. It is
+unsweetened, and although I have kept it two or three months in cool
+weather, it often will not keep many weeks; it is therefore better to
+buy it by the gill or half-pint, if your druggist will sell it so, than
+to buy a large bottle, although it is so useful for making raspberry
+jelly, raspberry shrub, and many other things, that even a bottle is not
+likely to be wasted. It must not be confused with raspberry _syrup_,
+which is heavily sweetened, but not nearly so fragrant. Before serving
+the charlotte remove the pins and take the paper off.
+
+_Charlotte Russe with Gelatine._--Prepare a frame as in last recipe,
+also beat a pint of cream sweetened and flavored with wine or to taste;
+melt in a pint of milk half an ounce of gelatine. The French gelatine is
+very pure, easy to melt, and no more expensive than any other good kind,
+and for delicate uses preferable to them. Make the gelatine and milk
+into a custard with two eggs, sweeten with two tablespoonfuls of sugar,
+flavor to taste, and put to get cold, stirring it once in a while; when
+it begins to thicken round the sides of the vessel beat with the
+egg-beater till foamy. You have now a vessel of whipped custard and one
+of whipped cream, both cold; now mix the cream into the custard, a
+little at a time, giving the spoon a light upward movement; _do not stir
+it_; that deadens the cream; your object is to keep it light; when all
+is mixed, fill the frame of cake with the spongy mixture; decorate it
+either with drops and pipings of the mixture applied to the smooth
+surface, or with candied fruits cut into forms or various colored
+jellies.
+
+Of course a charlotte russe can be varied in many ways. It may be filled
+with the custard made with chocolate, and so be brown charlotte, or the
+filling may have apricot or currant jelly whipped into it with the
+gelatine; this is an admirable change.
+
+_Almond Turban._--Make half a pound of fine puff-paste, give it nine
+turns, roll it the last time to the thickness of a dollar; have ready
+half a pound of almonds, blanched and chopped; put them in a bowl with
+half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, adding a very
+little more if the icing is too stiff to spread; spread the almond icing
+on the pastry as thick as a twenty-five-cent piece; with a sharp knife
+cut the pastry into strips two and a half inches long and one in
+breadth; bake these in a moderate oven a very pale brown; make a circle
+on a dish of some _firm_ marmalade or jam; when the almond cakes are
+cold, dress them in a crown on the jam, which serves to keep them in
+place; fill the centre of the turban with vanilla ice-cream or simple
+whipped cream.
+
+_Fine Small Cakes for Dessert._--It may not be worth the while of a busy
+housekeeper within reach of a first-class confectioner's to make these,
+because, although when of fine quality they are always expensive, yet
+they are also tedious to make. Many, however, live in country towns,
+where there is no possibility of obtaining anything better than the
+sandy products of the country bakery.
+
+A few really fine cakes can be made at a time, and kept in an air-tight
+box, with layers of paper between, for some time. In speaking, however,
+of the tediousness I would not discourage the reader, for there are few
+more tedious things in cooking than the rolling out, making, and baking
+of thin cookies or ginger-snaps, and the result attained so inadequate.
+
+_Rout Biscuits._--Boil a pound of sugar in half a pint of milk; grate
+into it the rind of a lemon when cold; rub half a pound of butter into a
+pound and a half of flour and a pound of almond paste grated fine; put
+as much carbonate of soda as would lie on a silver dime into the milk,
+and mix with the flour and almond paste; beat two eggs, and make the
+whole into a firm, smooth paste; print this paste with very small
+butter moulds if you have them, making little cakes just like the tiny
+pats of butter one gets at city restaurants. Bake on a well-buttered pan
+in a quick oven a very pale yellow.
+
+_Macaroons._--These must be exempted from the charge of being tedious,
+they are so easily and quickly made. One pound of almond paste grated,
+one pound and a half of sugar, and the whites of seven eggs. Some
+confectioners use a teaspoonful of flour, with the idea that the
+macaroons are not so apt to fall. I recommend a trial of both methods;
+they will both be good. Stir the sugar and the beaten white of eggs
+together just enough to mix, then by degrees add the grated paste,
+mashing with the back of a fork till it forms a perfectly smooth paste.
+Oil several sheets of paper cut to the size of your baking-pans.
+Dripping-pans may be used if you have no regular baking-sheets. Lay a
+sheet of paper at the bottom of the pan. Put half a teaspoonful of the
+macaroon paste on a scrap of buttered paper in the oven. If it spreads
+too much it requires a very little more sugar; if it does not spread at
+all, or so little as to leave the surface rough, it is too stiff, and
+requires perhaps _half_ the white of an egg, or the finger dipped in
+water and laid on each macaroon after they are on the paper is often
+sufficient--a little practice is all that is necessary. Lay the paste in
+half-teaspoonfuls on the oiled or greased paper. If the trial one
+indicated that they were slightly too stiff, lay a wet finger on each,
+sift powdered sugar over, and then put a pinch of chopped and blanched
+almonds in the centre with just enough pressure to keep them in place.
+As the macaroon spreads in the oven the almonds scatter themselves.
+
+Macaroons should be baked _about_ twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
+They must be taken out while they are a very pale brown, but they must
+also be quite "set," or they will fall. If the oven is too quick they
+will brown too soon; in that case leave the oven door open, taking care
+that no cold draught can blow on the macaroons. You can tell if they
+have browned too quickly by the cracks in them being still white and
+sticky. When done both the cracks and surface should be the same pale
+color. The macaroons must be left five minutes in the pan after leaving
+the oven without being touched. At the end of that time they may be
+gently taken off the pans _on the papers_, from which they must not be
+detached until they are quite cold. Should they stick to the paper,
+moisten the back of it.
+
+_Fine Ginger Dessert Cakes._--Rub half a pound of fresh butter into
+three quarters of a pound of flour; beat three eggs with three quarters
+of a pound of powdered sugar and half a glass of rosewater, the grated
+peel of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of the best powdered ginger--use the
+ginger carefully, trying a level spoonful first. Then mix all into a
+paste. If the flavor of ginger is not strong enough, add more; they
+should taste well of it, without being hot in the mouth. Roll the paste
+a quarter of an inch thick, and cut into small oval or round cakes, sift
+powdered sugar over them, and bake rather slowly a very pale brown.
+
+
+
+
+XXXII.
+
+FINE CAKES AND SAUCES.
+
+
+_Madeleines._--Four ounces of butter, four ounces of the best flour,
+three ounces of sugar, a teaspoonful of orange-flower water, the yolks
+of four eggs, and rind of a lemon. Beat butter, sugar, and yolks of eggs
+together, then add the other ingredients; grate in the rind of half a
+lemon, and add the well-beaten whites of eggs last of all. Fill little
+moulds that have been buttered with washed butter, cover the tops with
+split almonds and sifted sugar; bake from thirty to forty minutes in a
+moderate oven. These cakes are sometimes served hot with apricot sauce.
+
+_Chestnut Croquettes._--Boil fifty sound chestnuts; take them out of the
+shells; reject all imperfect ones; keep the large pieces aside; pound
+the crumbs and most broken pieces with an ounce of butter till very
+smooth; then mix in a _small_ cup of cream two ounces of butter and one
+ounce of powdered sugar; put the whole into a double boiler, and stir in
+the beaten yolks of six eggs. Let the mixture set. When cool, make it
+into balls; in the centre of each ball put a piece of the chestnut you
+have laid aside, dip the balls in fine cracker meal and eggs, and fry a
+very pale yellow. Serve with sifted sugar.
+
+Very pretty cakes, very easily made, which come under the French term
+_petits fours_, may be given here.
+
+_Petits Fours._--Make rich cake mixture thus: Wash three quarters of a
+pound of butter to free it from excess of salt; squeeze it dry in a
+cloth; beat it with the hand till creamy; add three quarters of a pound
+of powdered sugar; beat till light; then beat in ten eggs, one by one,
+and sift in a pound of dried and sifted flour. When all are well beaten
+together, the paste or batter is ready for use. Line some shallow pans
+(those used for making rolled jelly-cake are best) with buttered paper;
+spread a layer of the mixture just as you would for jelly-cake, but much
+thicker, as when baked the sheets should not be more than the third of
+an inch thick. Bake slowly. When done, remove from the oven, but leave
+the cake undisturbed till cold. If the sheets are large, they may be cut
+exactly in half, spread thinly with some stiff marmalade or jelly;
+quince or apricot is best, but any rich flavor with some tartness will
+do; lay one half on the other, and press closely and very neatly
+together. Do each sheet of cake in the same way, varying the marmalade
+if you choose. Have ready a bowl of icing (either boiled French icing or
+what is called royal icing). Dust the top of the cakes with flour, which
+must be brushed off again, as it is only to absorb the grease. Flavor
+the icing with vanilla, and lay it on the centre of the cake; let it run
+over it, aiding with a knife dipped in water (shaking off the drops,
+however). The icing needs to be very neatly done, and must not be
+thicker than a twenty-five-cent piece. Now color the icing in the bowl
+pink, with a little cochineal, add a drop or two of extract of bitter
+almond or of lemon, either of which will agree with the vanilla that was
+in the white icing; then ice another sheet of cake in the same way; a
+third may be done with chocolate icing.
+
+The beauty of these cakes will depend on the way they are cut. You may
+choose to make them tablets an inch wide and three inches long, or in
+lozenge shape--the true diamond--but in either case the cutting must be
+exact. The best way to have it so is to mark the lines very lightly with
+the point of a penknife on the icing, using a measure. Trim off the edge
+of the cake with a sharp knife, so that it is neat all round, no excess
+of marmalade oozing out, or tears of icing running down. Then warm a
+sharp carving-knife (I am supposing the cake is on a board), and cut
+through the lines you have marked, without hesitation, so that there
+may be no crumbs or roughness, which slow, over-careful cutting causes.
+When cut up you should have, if neatly done, an assortment of very
+delicious and ornamental cakes.
+
+
+FRENCH SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS, ETC.
+
+_Sauce Madere a la Marmalade._--A half-pound of apricot marmalade; half
+a tumbler of Madeira or sherry; boil three minutes, then pass through a
+sieve, and serve as sauce to soufflees, cabinet puddings, etc.
+
+_Sauce des Oeufs au Kirsch._--Beat the yolks of eight eggs, put them
+in a saucepan with half a tumbler of kirsch, five ounces of powdered
+sugar, and half the rind of a lemon grated. Stir all in a double boiler
+till the mixture sticks to the spoon; then remove from the boiling
+water; stir for a minute to prevent curdling; then it is ready to serve.
+
+_Chaudeau Sauce._--Take two whole eggs, six yolks of eggs, and eight
+lumps of sugar (each one rubbed on lemon-peel), two pints of Chablis,
+and the juice of half a lemon; beat them over a slow fire in a double
+boiler till a light froth is formed; be very careful the eggs do not
+curdle when the boiling-point is reached; take the sauce off the fire,
+and continue beating for a minute or two. If small streaks appear on the
+froth the sauce is done. Stir in a tablespoonful of fine rum, and the
+sauce is ready to serve.
+
+_Sherry Sauce for Puddings._--Six yolks of eggs, one ounce of sugar,
+half a pint of sherry, and the thin peel of a lemon. Beat the eggs with
+the sugar; when the wine is warm, stir them into it (let the lemon-peel
+steep in the wine while warming); stir all together till as thick as
+cream; then remove from the fire, and take out the peel. In making all
+these sauces with eggs the same precaution is required as in making
+custard.
+
+_Wine Sauce_, No. 2.--Three gills of water, one cup of sugar, one
+teaspoonful of corn-starch, and one gill of wine. Mix the corn-starch
+with a little water; pour the rest boiling to it, stirring till smooth;
+then add the sugar, and boil for five minutes; then add the wine and a
+few drops of essence of lemon and the same of cinnamon. Use these
+flavorings drop by drop, as they differ in strength too much for an
+exact quantity to be given, and the taste must be the guide. Rum or
+brandy may be used instead of wine; then the cinnamon is omitted.
+
+_Apricot Sauces._--Half a small jar of apricot jam or marmalade;
+dissolve it in three quarters of a gill of water with the juice of a
+lemon; stir in three quarters of a gill of rum. This sauce is simply
+made hot, not boiled, and may be served cold with Baba or Savarin cake.
+Greengage marmalade may be substituted.
+
+_Whipped Sweet Sauce._--Put the yolks of four eggs into a double
+saucepan with two ounces of sugar, one glass of sherry, the juice of one
+lemon, and a speck of salt; beat all together; then set the saucepan
+over the fire, and whisk the sauce till it is a creamy froth, when it
+is ready to serve.
+
+_Very Fine Sweet Butter Sauce._--Wash four ounces of butter; squeeze it
+dry; beat it to a hard sauce with half a pound of powdered sugar; then
+put the yolks of two eggs in a cold bowl; stir it a minute, then add to
+it a little of the hard sauce; when well mixed add more, about a
+teaspoonful at a time; when the hard sauce is blended with the yolks of
+eggs, stir in by degrees a wineglass of brandy or rum. Keep on ice till
+wanted.
+
+_Vanilla Cream Sauce._--Put half a pint of fresh cream to boil,
+reserving a tablespoonful; mix this with a teaspoonful of flour; stir it
+into the cream, with a tablespoonful of sugar, when near boiling; when
+it boils, stir for five minutes or ten in a double boiler; then pour out
+the sauce, and stir in a small teaspoonful of vanilla and a few drops of
+extract of rose or a teaspoonful of rose-water. Observe that the rose is
+used to give a different tone to the vanilla, and not to impart its own
+flavor, therefore very little must be used.
+
+_Almond Sauce._--Dissolve four ounces of almond paste in half a pint of
+sweet cream by stirring in a double boiler (the almond paste should be
+grated first); when both are hot, add a tablespoonful of sugar and the
+yolk of an egg; stir till the egg thickens, then remove from the fire
+and serve.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIII.
+
+SALADS AND CHEESE DISHES.
+
+
+Salad has come to form part of even the simplest dinners; and certainly
+cold meat and salad and excellent bread and butter make a meal by no
+means to be despised even by an epicure, while cold meat and bread and
+butter sound very untempting. The best dinner salad will perhaps always
+be white, crisp lettuce, with a simple French dressing, although, to
+those acquainted with it, escarole runs it hard, with its cool, watery
+ribs and crisp leaves. Elaborate salads, or those dressed with
+mayonnaise, are too heavy to form the latter part of an already
+sufficiently nourishing meal, but for luncheons and suppers the rich
+salad is invaluable.
+
+Salad which is to be eaten with game or to form a course at dinner may
+be a crisp white cabbage lettuce, water-cress, Romaine lettuce, or that
+most delicious form of endive, escarole.
+
+The dressing should be the simple French dressing, about which so much
+has been written and said, and which is so easy that perhaps it is one
+reason why so few make it well. There is nothing to remember beyond the
+proportions, and so many keep the quantity of oil, vinegar, and pepper
+and salt in mind, but the manner of using them seems of no consequence;
+but it is of so much consequence, if you do not want the vinegar on the
+leaves and the oil at the bottom of the salad bowl, that, well known as
+the formula is, I am going over it again with a few details that may
+help to fix the matter in mind.
+
+In the first place it must be remembered that a wet leaf will repel oil,
+therefore the lettuce or other salad must be well dried before it is
+sent to table. This is best done by swinging it in a salad basket, and
+then spreading it between two cloths for a few minutes. Now it must be
+quite evident, if a leaf wet with water will refuse to retain oil, that
+one wet with vinegar will do the same; for this reason the leaves should
+be covered with oil _before_ the vinegar is added, or the salad will be
+crude and very unlike what it should be if properly mixed in the
+following way:
+
+Take lettuce as the example, although any of those mentioned are made in
+the same way. Have the lettuce dry in the salad bowl, put in the
+salad-spoon a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, and,
+holding it over the bowl, fill the spoon with oil; mix the salt and
+pepper well with it, and turn it over the salad; toss the salad lightly
+over and over till the leaves glisten, then add two (if for epicures,
+three or four) more spoonfuls of oil, then toss again over and over till
+every leaf is well coated with oil; then sprinkle in a saladspoonful of
+sharp vinegar. Toss again, and the salad is ready.
+
+One salad less well known than it deserves to be is that made from the
+grape fruit. This is an especially grateful dish for spring breakfast,
+when cool, refreshing things are in order. Many tell me they have tried
+to eat grape fruit, but find it quite impossible on account of the
+intense bitter.
+
+There is a very _slight_ and pleasant bitter with grape fruit when
+properly prepared, but if by carelessness or ignorance even a small
+portion of the pith is left in it intense bitter is imparted to the
+whole.
+
+_Grape-fruit Salad._--Prepare the fruit, some hours before it is wanted,
+in the following way: Cut the fruit in four as you would an orange;
+separate the sections; then remove the pulp from each, taking care that
+no white pith or skin adheres to it. Put the pulp on the ice until just
+before serving; then dress with oil and vinegar exactly as directed for
+lettuce, etc.
+
+Meat or fish salads should always be dressed with mayonnaise. I say
+nothing of the well-known lobster and chicken salads, which are so
+general that one is tempted to think the majority of people do not know
+how excellent some other combination salads are. Salmon salad--the fish
+flaked, laid on a bed of crisp lettuce with a border of the leaves, and
+masked with mayonnaise, with a garnish of aspic--is both handsome and
+delicious; but cold halibut, or even cod--any firm fish that flakes, in
+fact--make delightful salads, and acceptable to many who cannot eat
+lobster. In the way of meat salads, partridge or grouse are far daintier
+than chicken, prepared in just the same way. There is one point,
+however, which should be observed in making all meat salads: it is that
+the material should be well dressed with oil, vinegar, and condiments
+before the mayonnaise is put on. Usually one of two courses is followed:
+either the meat is left dry, the mayonnaise being supposed sufficient,
+or it is dressed with mayonnaise and then masked with it. In the latter
+case the salad is far too rich; in the former it is flat, because
+mayonnaise, if rightly made, has not acidity enough to flavor the meat;
+therefore it and the celery or other salad mixed with it should be
+bathed with French dressing before it is masked.
+
+With these general rules any salad may be made; but as variety is the
+spice of the table, it may be borne in mind that in spring a sprig of
+mint, very finely chopped, gives a fragrance to lettuce, as does chervil
+or borage, parsley, or a tiny bit of onion. To a game salad nothing
+should be added.
+
+No recipe is needed for mayonnaise, it having been given in the chapter
+on cold sauces.
+
+In the course of these chapters several cheese dishes have been given,
+but there are a few others especially appropriate to the cheese and
+salad course, where it constitutes part of the dinner, which I will
+include. Cheese dishes are far less popular in this country than in
+Europe, but there are families whose masculine members eat no sweets,
+and for whom a dainty cheese dish would be very acceptable.
+
+_Genoa Ramaquin._--Cut a slice of Vienna or other baker's bread, half an
+inch thick, lengthwise of the loaf, so that it covers the bottom of a
+fire-proof dish--a souffle pan well buttered is excellent; beat two eggs
+and half a pint of milk together; add a level saltspoonful of salt; pour
+this custard over the bread, and leave it an hour to soak. Pour off any
+custard that may not be absorbed; dust the bread with pepper; then cover
+with the following mixture: dissolve as much rich cheese shaved in half
+a gill of cream as will cover the bread an inch thick, stirring it over
+a slow fire. Season with pepper and salt, and pour the cheese over the
+bread. Put it in the oven, and bake for half an hour, or till quite
+brown.
+
+_Cheese Puffs._--Line patty-pans with puff-paste, and fill three parts
+full with the following mixture: put a gill of cream in a double boiler
+with two ounces of grated cheese (half Parmesan if liked), a
+saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, a pinch of sugar, and a large
+teaspoonful of butter; when all is melted to a thick custard, break into
+it two eggs well whipped. The mixture is only to be made hot enough to
+melt the cheese, not to boil.
+
+_Cheese Sticks._--Take a piece of light bread dough about the size of a
+teacup, roll it out on a pastry-board, spread it with bits of firm
+butter, dredge with flour, fold and roll, repeat until you have rolled
+in two ounces of butter, just as for puff-paste; now roll the pastry out
+the third of an inch thick, cut into strips half an inch wide and any
+length you think proper, lay them very straight on a baking-sheet, and
+bake slowly a _very_ light brown; remove from the oven, let them cool,
+then brush them over with white of egg, and roll them thickly in grated
+Parmesan; return for a minute or two to the oven. These are very good
+with salad, but cannot easily be made in warm weather. Should the
+pastry get too soft while rolling, put it on ice, and it is better to
+do so at all times before cutting into strips, so that the "sticks" may
+be quite straight.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+  Allemande Sauce, 18.
+
+  Almond Cream, 229, 251;
+    Sauce, 299;
+    Trifles, 279;
+    Turban, 285;
+    Water-ice, 255.
+
+  Apple Jelly, 212;
+    Compote, 263-265.
+
+  Apricot Sauces, 297;
+    Water-ices, 256.
+
+  Artichokes, Fried, 198.
+
+  Aspic, Jelly, 195;
+    Lobster in, 79;
+    Mayonnaise, 47;
+    Oysters in, 76;
+    Reed-birds in, 159.
+
+
+  Ballotines, 177.
+
+  Bearnaise Sauce, 26.
+
+  Bechamel Sauce, 17, 159.
+
+  Beef, Fillets of, 86-89.
+
+  Beet-root Fritters, 198.
+
+  Birds, how to bone, 172-175;
+    how to stuff, 175.
+
+  Biscuits, Rout, 286.
+
+  Bouchees, 124.
+
+  Bouquet of herbs, 37.
+
+
+  Cabinet Pudding, 233, 239.
+
+  Cakes, Dessert, 285, 289.
+
+  Cakes and Sauces, fine, 291-295.
+    Chestnut Croquettes, 291.
+    Madeleines, 291.
+    Petits Fours, 292.
+
+  Candied Orange and Lemon Peels, 260, 261.
+
+  Caper Sauce, 29.
+
+  Cardinal Sauce, 30.
+
+  Cauliflower Fritters, 198.
+
+  Celery Sauce, 29.
+
+  Charlotte Russe, 281-283.
+
+  Chateaubriand Sauce, 34.
+
+  Chaudfroid Sauce, 160.
+
+  Chaudfroids. (See Entrees.)
+
+  Cheese Dishes, 306-308.
+    Genoa Ramaquin, 306.
+    Puffs, 306.
+    Sticks, 307.
+
+  Chestnut Soup, 57;
+    Croquettes, 291.
+
+  Chicken, a la Hollandaise, 114.
+    And Ham Cutlets, 157.
+    Chaudfroids of, 156.
+    Fritot of, 132.
+    Patties, 121.
+    Salad, 154.
+    Scallops, 130.
+    Tartlettes, 114.
+    Timbale of, 129.
+    Turtle fashion, 136.
+
+  Chocolate Cream Pudding, 245.
+
+  Choice Cookery explained, 1-3.
+
+  Chops, Lamb and Mutton, 98-103.
+
+  Cigarettes, 108, 135, 136.
+
+  Cinnamon, care in selecting, 216;
+    Water-ice, 255.
+
+  Claret Granito, 258;
+    Jelly, 215.
+
+  Cod, Fillets of, 62.
+
+  Cold Game Pies, 183-190.
+
+  Compote of Apples, 263-265;
+    of Cherries, 272;
+    of Chestnuts, 269, 270;
+    of Oranges, 269;
+    of Pears, 266, 268;
+    of Pigeons, 145;
+    of Strawberries, 272.
+
+  Consomme, 51-55.
+
+  Coquilles, 63, 64.
+
+  Creams, 223-230, 235-237.
+    Almond Cream, 229.
+    Bohemian Jelly Creams, 237.
+    Cocoanut Cream, 235.
+    Coffee Cream, 226.
+    Curacoa Cream, 226.
+    Ginger Cream, 224.
+    Hazel-nut Cream, 236.
+    Here and in Europe, 223.
+    Neapolitan Cream, 224.
+    Nut Creams, 235.
+    Pistache Cream, 229.
+    Strawberry Cream, 227.
+    Vanilla Cream, 227.
+    Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream, 237.
+    Whipped Cream, 213, 214.
+
+  Croquettes, Chestnut, 291;
+    manner of preparing, 107.
+
+  Cucumber, Fillets of, 99;
+    Fillets of Rabbit with, 150;
+    Sauce, 29, 48;
+    Stuffed, 199.
+
+  Culinary matters, 79-85.
+
+  Curacoa, 258.
+
+  Currant Water-ice, 256.
+
+  Currants, how to cook, 271.
+
+  Cutlets, how to prepare, 107.
+    Chicken and Ham, 157.
+    Lamb, 99, 100.
+    Mutton, 90, 98.
+    Pigeon, 143.
+    Russian Salad for, 101.
+    Sweetbread, 109.
+    Veal, 139.
+
+
+  Decorations, uneatable, 196.
+
+  Dessert, Small Cakes for, 285.
+
+  Downton Sauce, 39.
+
+  Dresden Patty Cases, 118.
+
+
+  Entrees, 86-106, 129-152, 153-171.
+    A Civet, 150.
+    Baked Ravioli, 137.
+    Cold Lamb Cutlets in Mint Jelly, 100.
+    Chicken Souffle, 131.
+    Chicken, Turtle fashion, 136.
+    Cigarettes a la Chasseur, 135.
+    Cigarettes a la Reine, 134.
+    Cutlets Chaudfroid a la Russe, 102.
+    Filets de Boeuf a la Bearnaise, 87.
+    Filets de Boeuf aux Champignons, 87.
+    Fillet of Beef, 86.
+    Fillets of Beef a la Grande-Bretagne, 89.
+    Fillets of Cucumber, 99.
+    Fillets of Rabbit with Cucumber, 150.
+    Fillets of Teal with Anchovies, 148.
+    Fritot of Chicken, 132.
+    Grenadines of Beef with Mushrooms and Poivrade Sauce, 88.
+    Grenadines of Rabbit a la Soubise, 149.
+    Lamb Cutlets en Concombre, 99.
+    Lamb Cutlets with a Puree of Mushrooms, 100.
+    Lobster Quenelles, 136.
+    Mutton Cutlets a la d'Uxelles, 90.
+    Mutton Cutlets a la Milanais, 90.
+    Mutton Cutlets, or Chops, 98.
+    Pigeon Cutlets, 143.
+    Pigeons a la Tartare, 144.
+    Quails a la Jubilee, 141.
+    Quails a la Lucullus, 140.
+    Salmis of Snipe, 147.
+    Scallops of Chicken a la Perigord, 130.
+    Souffle of Partridges, 146.
+    Sweetbreads a la Supreme, 103.
+    Sweetbreads in Cases, 106.
+    Sweetbreads with Oysters, 104.
+    Timbale of Chicken a la Champenois, 129.
+    Timbales d'Epinard, 151.
+    Veal Cutlets a la Primrose, 139.
+
+  Entrees, Cold, or Chaudfroids, 153-171.
+    Allumettes, 170.
+    Canapes a la Bismarck, 165.
+    Caviare Canapes, 166.
+    Chaudfroid of Reed-birds, 160.
+    Chaudfroids of Chicken, 156.
+    Cheese Biscuits a la St. James, 168.
+    Chicken and Ham Cutlets, 157.
+    Chicken Salad a la Prince, 154.
+    Cold Cheese Souffles, 169.
+    Croutes de Fromage Glace, 169.
+    Eggs a la St. James, 170.
+    Iced Savory Souffle, 162.
+    Kluskis of Cream Cheese, 168.
+    Oysters a la St. George, 169.
+    Prawns en Surprise, 166.
+    Prince of Wales Canapes, 167.
+    Reed-birds in Aspic, 159.
+    Savage Club Canapes, 164.
+    Savories, 162-164.
+    Shrimp Canapes, 168.
+    Sweetbread au Montpellier, 153.
+
+  Entrees, Fish, 61-70.
+    Coquilles of Prawns, 63.
+    Coquilles of Salmon or Halibut, 64.
+    Fillet of Flounders, 69.
+    Fillet of Sole a la Normande, 65.
+    Fillets of Cod a la Normande, 62.
+    Lobster in Aspic, 79.
+    Lobster Soufflees, 62.
+    Salmon en Papillotes, 65.
+    Sole a l'Horly, 66.
+    Turbans of Sole a la Rouennaise, 67.
+
+  Espagnole Sauce, 33.
+
+
+  Fillet, how to, 181, 182.
+
+  Fillets of Rabbits, 150.
+
+  Flavorings and Liqueurs, 210-212.
+
+  Flounders, Fillet of, 69.
+
+  Fritters, 198.
+
+  Fruits, Macedoine of, 222.
+
+  Frying, directions for, 91-95.
+
+
+  Galantines, 172-177.
+    Of Breast of Veal, 178.
+    Of Sucking Pig, 179.
+
+  Game Pie, 183.
+    English manner of making, in a crust, 189, 190.
+    Filling the case of, 186.
+    French method of making, 185.
+
+  Game, Salad to eat with, 300.
+
+  Garnishes, 191-198.
+    Colored Custard, 192.
+    Profiterolles, 194.
+    Spinach Juice, 192.
+    Stuffed Artichokes, 197.
+
+  Gelatine, 196;
+    right proportion for jelly, 217.
+
+  Ginger Cream, 224;
+    Dessert Cakes, 289;
+    Water-ice, 253.
+
+  Glaze, 8;
+    how to preserve, 10.
+
+  Graniti, 257, 258.
+    Claret Granito, 258.
+    Sherry Granito, 258.
+    To freeze, 257.
+
+  Grape-fruit Salad, 303.
+
+  Grenadines of Rabbit, 149.
+
+
+  Ham, Puree of, 152.
+
+  Herbs, French, 12;
+    how to chop, 81;
+    what required, 12.
+
+  Horseradish Sauce, 48.
+
+
+  Ice-creams and Ices, 246-256.
+    Almond Water-ice, 255.
+    Apricot Water-ice, 256.
+    Chinese Ice, 252.
+    Cinnamon Water-ice, 255.
+    Currant Water-ice, 256.
+    Custard for Ice-cream, 249.
+    Fruit Jam and Jellies with Ice-cream, 250.
+    Ginger Water-ice, 253.
+    Grilled Almond Ice-cream, 251.
+    Ice-cream with Eggs, 249.
+    Pineapple Water-ice, 254.
+    Pistachio Water-ice, 255.
+    Simplest Fruit Ice-cream, 246.
+    Tea Ice-cream, 252.
+    Tutti-frutti Ice-cream, 248.
+
+  Ice Pudding, 240, 241.
+
+  Iced Custard with Fruit, 244.
+
+  Iced Puddings, 238, 239, 241, 243.
+
+
+  Jellies, 208-225.
+    Aspic Jelly, 195.
+    Consistency of Jelly, 214.
+    Jellied Raspberries, 221.
+    Jelly with Candied Fruits, 220.
+    Jelly with Fresh Fruits, 218.
+    Mint Jelly, 49.
+    Mould of Apple Jelly, 212.
+    Plain Claret Jelly, 215.
+    Right proportions of Gelatine for Jelly, 217.
+    Roman Punch Jellies, 222.
+
+
+  Kabobs, Oyster, 72-74.
+
+  Kromeskies, 107.
+
+
+  Lamb Cutlets, 99, 100.
+
+  Lemon Baskets, 274;
+    Peels, Candied, 261.
+
+  Lemons, how to grate, 82.
+
+  Liqueurs and Flavorings, 210-212.
+
+  Lobster, in Aspic, 79;
+    Quenelles, 136;
+    Sauce, 29;
+    Soufflees, 62.
+
+
+  Macaroons, 287.
+
+  Macedoine of Fruits, 222.
+
+  Madeleines, 291.
+
+  Maraschino, 259.
+
+  Matelote Sauce, 40.
+
+  Mayonnaise, 43, 46, 47.
+
+  Meal, quantity to be used, 75.
+
+  Meringue Paste, 251.
+
+  Mint Jelly, 49.
+
+  Mother Sauces, 6.
+
+  Mushroom Baskets, 201.
+
+  Mushroom Jelly, 200.
+
+  Mushrooms and Tomatoes, 200.
+
+  Mushrooms, Stuffed, 200.
+
+  Mutton Cutlets, 90, 98.
+
+
+  Neapolitan Cream, 224.
+
+  Norwegian Sauce, 47.
+
+  Nut Creams, 229, 235-237.
+
+
+  Onion, Spanish, 202-204.
+
+  Orange Baskets, 272, 274.
+
+  Orange Compote, 209.
+
+  Orange Sauce, 39.
+
+  Oyster Kabobs, 72, 74;
+    Sauce, 29.
+
+  Oysters, 71-78.
+    A la Tartare, 78.
+    A la Villeroi, 71.
+    In Aspic, 76.
+    Various ways of serving, 71-78.
+
+
+  Papillotes, 65.
+
+  Parsley Sauce, 29.
+
+  Partridges, Souffle of, 146.
+
+  Patties, 116-124.
+    Chicken, 121.
+    Dresden Cases for, 118.
+    Oyster, 121.
+    Sweetbread, 120.
+
+  Pears, a la Princesse, 267;
+    Compote of, 265, 266, 268.
+
+  Petits Fours, 292.
+
+  Pies, Game, 183-190.
+
+  Pigeon Cutlets, 143.
+
+  Pigeons, a la Tartare, 144;
+    Compote of, 145.
+
+  Pineapple Water-ice, 254.
+
+  Piquante Sauce, 35.
+
+  Pistache Cream, 229.
+
+  Pistachio Water-ice, 255.
+
+  Poivrade Sauce, 36.
+
+  Potage, a la Hollandaise, 56;
+    a la Royale, 59.
+
+  Potatoes, a la Provencale, 204;
+    Milanese, 205;
+    Scalloped, 205.
+
+  Poulette Sauce, 20.
+
+  Prawns, Coquilles of, 63.
+
+  Princess Soup, 58.
+
+  Profiterolles, 194.
+
+  Puddings, 230-234, 238-246.
+    Bombay Ice Pudding, 241.
+    Chocolate Cream Pudding, 245.
+    Cold Cabinet Pudding, 233.
+    Cold Souffle Pudding, 231.
+    Diplomatic Pudding, 232.
+    Filbert and Wine Iced Pudding, 243.
+    Frangipanni Iced Pudding, 238.
+    Frozen Pudding, 235.
+    Ice Pudding, 240.
+    Iced Cabinet Pudding, 239.
+    Iced Custard with Fruit, 244.
+    Iced Jelly Pudding, 241.
+    Iced Puddings, 243.
+    Imperial Rice Pudding, 231.
+    Jubilee Pudding, 230.
+    Rice a la Princesse, 245.
+    Sauces for, 295-299.
+
+  Puffs, Cheese, 306.
+
+  Puree of Ham, 152.
+
+
+  Quenelles for entrees, 125-129;
+    for soups, 53, 54.
+
+
+  Rabbit, Grenadines of, 149;
+    Fillets of, 150.
+
+  Rabbits, 148.
+
+  Raspberries, how to cook, 271;
+    Jellied, 221.
+
+  Ratafia, 259.
+
+  Ravioli, Baked, 137.
+
+  Red Mayonnaise, 46.
+
+  Reed-birds, Chaudfroids of, 160;
+    in Aspic, 159.
+
+  Rice Pudding, 231.
+
+  Rissoles, 108.
+
+  Robert Sauce, 38.
+
+  Roman Punch Jellies, 222.
+
+  Rout Biscuits, 286.
+
+  Russian Salad for Cutlets, 101.
+
+
+  Salads, 300-305.
+    Best dinner, 300.
+    For Cutlets, 100.
+    Grape-fruit, 303.
+    How to dress, 301, 302.
+    To eat with game, 300.
+
+  Salmis of Snipe, 147.
+
+  Salmon, Coquilles of, 64;
+    en Papillotes, 65.
+
+  Sauces, 11-22; 23-32; 33-41; 42-50.
+    A la d'Uxelles, 20.
+    A la Normande, 38.
+    Allemande, 18.
+    Almond, 299.
+    Apricot, 297.
+    Aspic Mayonnaise, 47.
+    Bearnaise, 26.
+    Bechamel, 17, 159.
+    Blonde, or White, 13-32.
+    Bordelaise, 37.
+    Brown, 33-41.
+    Caper, 29.
+    Cardinal, 30.
+    Celery, 29.
+    Chateaubriand, 34.
+    Chaudfroid, 160, 161.
+    Cold Cucumber, 48.
+    Cold Sauces, 42-50.
+    Consistency of, 24, 105.
+    Cucumber, 29.
+    Des Oeufs au Kirsch, 295.
+    Downton, 39.
+    Espagnole, 33.
+    Green Mayonnaise, 46.
+    Hollandaise, 30.
+    Horseradish, 48.
+    How to stir, 17.
+    Light Normande, 39.
+    Lobster, 29.
+    Madere a la Marmalade, 295.
+    Matelote, 40.
+    Mayonnaise, 43, 46, 47.
+    Mint, 49.
+    Mother Sauces, 6.
+    Norwegian, 47.
+    Orange, 39.
+    Oyster, 29.
+    Parsley, 29.
+    Piquante, 35.
+    Poivrade, 36.
+    Poulette, 20.
+    Red Mayonnaise, 46.
+    Robert, 38.
+    Rule for seasoning, 18.
+    Sherry, 296.
+    Shrimp, 29, 30.
+    Soubise, 27.
+    Ste. Menehould, 25.
+    Supreme, 23.
+    Sweet Butter, very fine, 298.
+    Sweet, French, for Puddings, 295-299.
+    Tartare, 48.
+    Vanilla Cream, 298.
+    Veloute, or White, 14.
+    Villeroi, 21.
+    Wine, 296.
+    Whipped Sweet, 297.
+    White, 23-32.
+
+  Sauteing, 95, 96.
+
+  Scalloped Potatoes, 205.
+
+  Scallops of Chicken, 130.
+
+  Sherry Granito, 258;
+    Sauce, 296.
+
+  Shrimp Sauce, 29, 30.
+
+  Sole, a l'Horly, 66;
+    a la Normande, 65;
+    Rouennaise, 67.
+
+  Soubise Sauce, 27;
+    with Grenadines of Rabbit, 149.
+
+  Souffle of Chicken, 131;
+    of Lobster, 62;
+    of Partridges, 146;
+    of Tomato, 206.
+
+  Soups, 51-60.
+    Chestnut, 57.
+    Consomme a la Rachel, 52.
+    Consomme a la Sevigne, 55.
+    Potage a la Hollandaise, 56.
+    Potage a la Royale, 59.
+    Princess, 58.
+    To clear Consomme, 51.
+
+  Spanish Onion, 204.
+
+  Spices and herbs required, 12.
+
+  Spinach Fritters, 206;
+    Juice, 192.
+
+  Ste. Menehould Sauce, 25.
+
+  Stock, 7;
+    to reduce to Glaze, 8.
+
+  Strawberries, how to cook, 271;
+    Compote of, 272.
+
+  Strawberry Cream, 227.
+
+  Stuffed Artichokes, 197;
+    Cucumbers, 199.
+
+  Sucking Pig, Ballotines of, 179.
+
+  Supreme Sauce, 23.
+
+  Sweet Sauce for Puddings, 295-299.
+
+  Sweetbreads a la Supreme, 103;
+    au Montpellier, 153;
+    braised, 113;
+    Cutlets of, 109;
+    in Cases, 106;
+    Patties, 120;
+    with Oysters, 104.
+
+  Sweets, 262-280.
+    Almond Trifles, 279.
+    Almond Turban, 285.
+    Charlotte Russe with Gelatine, 283.
+    Compote of Apple Marmalade, 265.
+    Compote of Apples or Pears Grille, 265.
+    Compote of Cherries, 272.
+    Compote of Oranges, 269.
+    Compote of Pears, 266.
+    Compote of Strawberries, 272.
+    Compote of Stuffed Apples, 264.
+    Compotes of Apple, 263, 264.
+    Compotes of Chestnuts, 269, 270.
+    Fine Small Dessert Cakes, 285.
+    Ginger Dessert Cakes, 289.
+    Lemon Baskets, 274.
+    Little China Dishes, 278.
+    Macaroons, 287.
+    Orange Baskets filled with fruit, 272.
+    Orange Basket Glace, 274.
+    Pears a la Princesse, 267.
+    Pink Compote, 267.
+    Raspberry Charlotte Russe, 281.
+    Rout Biscuits, 285.
+    Swiss Vacherin, 276.
+    Variegated Compote of Pears, 268.
+
+
+  Tartare Sauce, 48.
+
+  Teal with Anchovies, 148.
+
+  Timbale of Chicken, 129.
+
+  Timbales d'Epinard, 151.
+
+  Tomato Jelly, 205;
+    Souffle, 206.
+
+  Tomatoes and Mushrooms, 200.
+
+  Trifles, Almond, 279.
+
+  Turban, Almond, 285.
+
+  Turbans of Sole, 67.
+
+
+  Uneatable decorations, 196.
+
+
+  Vacherin, Swiss, 276.
+
+  Vanilla Cream, 227;
+    Cream Sauce, 298.
+
+  Variegated Compote of Pears, 268.
+
+  Veal Cutlets a la Primrose, 139.
+
+  Vegetables, 197-207.
+    A few ways of cooking, 197.
+    Beet-root Fritters, 198.
+    Cauliflower Fritters, 198.
+    Fried Artichokes, 198.
+    Milanese Potatoes, 205.
+    Mushroom Baskets, 201.
+    Mushroom Jelly, 200.
+    Mushrooms and Tomatoes, 200.
+    Mushrooms stuffed a la Lucullus, 200.
+    Potatoes a la Provencale, 204.
+    Scalloped Potatoes, 205.
+    Spanish or Portuguese Onion, 202, 203.
+    Spinach Fritters, 206.
+    Stuffed Cucumbers, 199.
+    Stuffed Spanish Onion, 204.
+    Tomato Jelly, 205.
+    Tomato Souffle, 206.
+    Various ways of serving, 199-207.
+
+  Veloute, or White Sauce, 14.
+
+  Villeroi Sauce, 21.
+
+
+  Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream, 237.
+
+  Water-ices, 253-256.
+    Almond, 255.
+    Apricot, 256.
+    Cinnamon, 255.
+    Currant, 256.
+    Ginger, 253.
+    Pineapple, 254.
+    Pistachio, 255.
+
+  Whipped Cream, 213, 214;
+    Sweet Sauces, 297.
+
+  White Sauces, 23-32.
+
+  Wine, Iced Pudding, 243;
+    Sauces, 296.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+MISS CORSON'S FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR.
+
+
+Family Living on $500 a Year. A Daily Reference Book for Young and
+   Inexperienced Housewives. By JULIET CORSON. 16mo, Cloth, $1 25.
+
+If we ever get as much as $500 a year we shall purchase this book and
+live like a prince.... It goes carefully through the expenses of daily
+living, and indicates the thousand and one ways in which a penny can be
+saved and another penny put where it will do most good. A book of this
+kind placed in the hands of those who have very limited means will show
+that they can live very comfortably and have quite enough to eat on a
+very small sum.--_N. Y. Herald._
+
+It is a helpful working book, sensible and practical, and tells how to
+buy, cook, and serve all sorts of food; how to can, pickle, and
+preserve; and how to arrange and serve luncheons, dinners, and teas, all
+in the most economical manner consistent with appetizing
+results.--_Sunday-School Times_, Philadelphia.
+
+Food-economist, cook-book, and instructor in table service all in
+one.... The book is a capital one, and every housekeeper should feel
+grateful to the able and painstaking author.--_N. Y. Post._
+
+The production of a lady who understands her subject thoroughly, and who
+earnestly wishes to help others towards the same useful knowledge.... A
+book of this sort (and Miss Corson is the best able to produce it of any
+one we know) is a great aid, and the more it is circulated the more
+households will be made happy.--_Churchman_, N. Y.
+
+Every house-keeper, whether coming within the scope of the author's
+effort or not, will find many instructive hints, a due regard for which
+will be conducive to the improved physical well-being and increased
+mental serenity of the various members of her household.--_St. Louis
+Republican._
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+--> HARPER & BROTHERS _will send the above work by mail, postage
+prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the
+price._
+
+
+
+
+MRS. SHERWOOD'S MANNERS AND SOCIAL USAGES IN AMERICA.
+
+
+Manners and Social Usages in America. A Book of Etiquette. By Mrs. JOHN
+   SHERWOOD. pp. 448. New and Enlarged Edition, Revised by the Author.
+   16mo, Extra Cloth, $1 25.
+
+Mrs. Sherwood's admirable little volume differs from ordinary works on
+the subject of etiquette, chiefly in the two facts that it is founded on
+its author's personal familiarity with the usages of really good
+society, and that it is inspired by good-sense and a helpful spirit....
+We think Mrs. Sherwood's little book the very best and most sensible one
+of its kind that we ever saw.--_N. Y. Commercial Advertiser._
+
+We have no hesitation in declaring it to be the best work of the kind
+yet published. The author shows a just appreciation of what is
+good-breeding and what is snobbishness.... In happy discriminations the
+excellence of Mrs. Sherwood's book is conspicuous.--_Brooklyn Union._
+
+It is a sensible and pleasantly written volume, which has already won
+recognition as one of the best books of its kind, and this new edition
+is called for by the heartiness with which the public has endorsed the
+work.--_Courier_, Boston.
+
+A sensible, comprehensive book, which has endured criticism
+successfully, and deserves now to be regarded the best book of its kind
+published in this country.... A better guide than Mrs. Sherwood's book
+through the paths of social usages we do not know. The book is a
+handsome one, as it ought to be.--_Christian Intelligencer_, N. Y.
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+--> HARPER & BROTHERS _will send the above work by mail, postage
+prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the
+price._
+
+
+
+
+BOOKS FOR THE HOUSEHOLD.
+
+
+MRS. HENDERSON'S PRACTICAL COOKING. Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving.
+  A Treatise containing Practical Instructions in Cooking; in the
+  Combination and Serving of Dishes, and in the Fashionable modes of
+  Entertaining at Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner. By MARY F. HENDERSON.
+  Illustrated. 12mo, Water-proof Cover, $1 50.
+
+MRS. HENDERSON'S DIET FOR THE SICK. Diet for the Sick. A Treatise on the
+  Values of Foods, their Application to Special Conditions of Health and
+  Disease, and on the Best Methods of their Preparation. By MARY F.
+  HENDERSON. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.
+
+MRS. WASHINGTON'S UNRIVALLED COOKBOOK. The Unrivalled Cook-Book and
+  House-keeper's Guide. By MRS. WASHINGTON. 12mo, Water-proof Cover, $2
+  00.
+
+MRS. SMITH'S VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. Virginia Cookery-Book. By MARY
+  STUART SMITH. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50; 4to, Paper, 25 cents.
+
+BAZAR COOKING RECEIPTS. Cooking Receipts from _Harper's Bazar_. 32mo,
+  Paper, 25 cents; Cloth, 40 cents.
+
+MISS OAKEY'S BEAUTY IN DRESS. Beauty in Dress. By MISS OAKEY. 16mo,
+  Cloth, $1 00.
+
+MRS. DEWING'S (MISS OAKEY) BEAUTY IN THE HOUSEHOLD. Beauty in the
+  Household. By Mrs. T. W. DEWING, Author of "Beauty in Dress."
+  Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00.
+
+COAN'S OUNCES OF PREVENTION. Ounces of Prevention. By TITUS MUNSON COAN,
+  M.D. 12mo, Paper, 25 cents; Cloth, 50 cents.
+
+MRS. CHURCH'S MONEY-MAKING FOR LADIES. Money-Making for Ladies. By ELLA
+  RODMAN CHURCH. 16mo, Cloth, 90 cents.
+
+WALKER'S HINTS TO WOMEN ON THE CARE OF PROPERTY. Hints to Women on the
+  Care of Property. By ALFRED WALKER. 32mo, Paper, 20 cents; Cloth, 35
+  cents.
+
+MISS CORSON'S FAMILY LIVING. Family Living on $500 a Year. A Daily
+  Reference Book for Young and Inexperienced Housewives. By JULIET
+  CORSON. 16mo, Cloth, $1 25.
+
+MRS. HERRICK'S HOUSE-KEEPING MADE EASY. House-keeping Made Easy. By
+  CHRISTINE TERHUNE HERRICK. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00.
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+
+--> HARPER & BROTHERS _will send any of the above works, postage
+prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the
+price._
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+The following typographical errors were corrected.
+
+  Page  Error
+    6   allemande is the same changed to Allemande is the same
+  160   pate de foie gras changed to pate de foie gras
+  166   Caviary Canapes changed to Caviare Canapes
+  309   Bearnaise Sauce changed to Bearnaise Sauce
+  309   Tartlets changed to Tartlettes
+  311   Coucombre changed to Concombre
+  311   Puree of Mushrooms changed to Puree of Mushrooms
+  311   a la Milanaise changed to a la Milanais
+  311   a la Perigord changed to a la Perigord
+  312   Ham, Puree of changed to Ham, Puree of
+  313   Macedoine of Fruits changed to Macedoine of Fruits
+  313   Meringue Paste changed to Meringue Paste
+  314   Puree of Ham changed to Puree of Ham
+  314   Bearnaise changed to Bearnaise
+  315   Ste. Menehould changed to Ste. Menehould
+  Ad 2  pp.448. changed to pp. 448.
+  Ad 3  12mo, Cloth, $1 50 changed to 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.
+
+
+  Inconsistently spelled and hyphenated words
+
+  blond / blonde
+  cocoa-nut / cocoanut
+  house-keeper / housekeeper
+  lemon-juice / lemon juice
+  pepper-corns / peppercorns
+  ramequin / ramekin
+  rose-water / rosewater
+  salt-spoonful / saltspoonful
+  souffle / soufflee
+  Souffle / Soufflee
+  souffles / soufflees
+  Souffles / Soufflees
+  under-side / underside
+  water-cress / watercress
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Choice Cookery, by Catherine Owen
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHOICE COOKERY ***
+
+***** This file should be named 26311.txt or 26311.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/3/1/26311/
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+https://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     https://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/26311.zip b/26311.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e11484e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/26311.zip
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6312041
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f412dd8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #26311 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/26311)