diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 02:20:10 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 02:20:10 -0700 |
| commit | a683673e4fb9861433e099a9be97a4860fb0d237 (patch) | |
| tree | 6d644e84f74eb1296b263a86f44fb479c9e5d15d | |
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 3 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-8.txt | 9151 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-8.zip | bin | 0 -> 190024 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-h.zip | bin | 0 -> 196433 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-h/26126-h.htm | 12280 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/f0009.png | bin | 0 -> 42063 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/f001.png | bin | 0 -> 16852 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/f0010.png | bin | 0 -> 53382 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/f0011.png | bin | 0 -> 48742 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/f0013.png | bin | 0 -> 4377 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/f002.png | bin | 0 -> 2945 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/f003.png | bin | 0 -> 2799 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/f004.png | bin | 0 -> 7419 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0001.png | bin | 0 -> 32190 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0002.png | bin | 0 -> 47159 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0003.png | bin | 0 -> 44106 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0004.png | bin | 0 -> 44676 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0005.png | bin | 0 -> 41577 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0006.png | bin | 0 -> 45470 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0007.png | bin | 0 -> 11762 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0008.png | bin | 0 -> 34741 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0009.png | bin | 0 -> 33633 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0010.png | bin | 0 -> 41923 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0011.png | bin | 0 -> 39286 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0012.png | bin | 0 -> 41367 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0013.png | bin | 0 -> 38003 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0014.png | bin | 0 -> 47698 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0015.png | bin | 0 -> 43015 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0016.png | bin | 0 -> 41479 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0017.png | bin | 0 -> 42416 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0018.png | bin | 0 -> 46360 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0019.png | bin | 0 -> 42723 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0020.png | bin | 0 -> 42769 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0021.png | bin | 0 -> 23721 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0022.png | bin | 0 -> 33734 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0023.png | bin | 0 -> 42022 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0024.png | bin | 0 -> 46379 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0025.png | bin | 0 -> 28843 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0026.png | bin | 0 -> 34702 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0027.png | bin | 0 -> 42589 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0028.png | bin | 0 -> 41854 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0029.png | bin | 0 -> 44164 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0030.png | bin | 0 -> 43682 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0031.png | bin | 0 -> 38845 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0032.png | bin | 0 -> 45043 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0033.png | bin | 0 -> 41892 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0034.png | bin | 0 -> 44841 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0035.png | bin | 0 -> 41889 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0036.png | bin | 0 -> 49887 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0037.png | bin | 0 -> 40163 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0038.png | bin | 0 -> 45738 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0039.png | bin | 0 -> 48602 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0040.png | bin | 0 -> 44381 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0041.png | bin | 0 -> 43902 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0042.png | bin | 0 -> 39666 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0043.png | bin | 0 -> 43732 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0044.png | bin | 0 -> 44604 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0045.png | bin | 0 -> 36961 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0046.png | bin | 0 -> 42310 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0047.png | bin | 0 -> 45748 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0048.png | bin | 0 -> 45388 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0049.png | bin | 0 -> 43221 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0050.png | bin | 0 -> 41493 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0051.png | bin | 0 -> 43351 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0052.png | bin | 0 -> 48037 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0053.png | bin | 0 -> 46611 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0054.png | bin | 0 -> 43767 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0055.png | bin | 0 -> 44147 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0056.png | bin | 0 -> 29995 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0057.png | bin | 0 -> 43813 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0058.png | bin | 0 -> 43264 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0059.png | bin | 0 -> 42825 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0060.png | bin | 0 -> 38549 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0061.png | bin | 0 -> 48938 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0062.png | bin | 0 -> 50177 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0063.png | bin | 0 -> 45926 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0064.png | bin | 0 -> 44425 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0065.png | bin | 0 -> 47014 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0066.png | bin | 0 -> 46616 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0067.png | bin | 0 -> 39994 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0068.png | bin | 0 -> 41940 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0069.png | bin | 0 -> 36104 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0070.png | bin | 0 -> 39144 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0071.png | bin | 0 -> 45541 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0072.png | bin | 0 -> 41599 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0073.png | bin | 0 -> 45324 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0074.png | bin | 0 -> 39506 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0075.png | bin | 0 -> 44213 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0076.png | bin | 0 -> 42522 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0077.png | bin | 0 -> 42620 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0078.png | bin | 0 -> 44030 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0079.png | bin | 0 -> 43191 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0080.png | bin | 0 -> 47144 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0081.png | bin | 0 -> 49454 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0082.png | bin | 0 -> 51091 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0083.png | bin | 0 -> 46822 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0084.png | bin | 0 -> 40579 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0085.png | bin | 0 -> 38792 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0086.png | bin | 0 -> 49676 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0087.png | bin | 0 -> 44232 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0088.png | bin | 0 -> 42791 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0089.png | bin | 0 -> 46620 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0090.png | bin | 0 -> 45897 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0091.png | bin | 0 -> 44748 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0092.png | bin | 0 -> 47021 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0093.png | bin | 0 -> 41153 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0094.png | bin | 0 -> 46671 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0095.png | bin | 0 -> 47223 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0096.png | bin | 0 -> 45972 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0097.png | bin | 0 -> 48128 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0098.png | bin | 0 -> 35858 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0099.png | bin | 0 -> 37844 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0100.png | bin | 0 -> 40445 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0101.png | bin | 0 -> 45591 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0102.png | bin | 0 -> 42348 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0103.png | bin | 0 -> 45179 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0104.png | bin | 0 -> 46149 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0105.png | bin | 0 -> 33397 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0106.png | bin | 0 -> 42460 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0107.png | bin | 0 -> 47082 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0108.png | bin | 0 -> 41907 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0109.png | bin | 0 -> 34098 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0110.png | bin | 0 -> 44044 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0111.png | bin | 0 -> 46180 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0112.png | bin | 0 -> 44648 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0113.png | bin | 0 -> 44776 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0114.png | bin | 0 -> 44692 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0115.png | bin | 0 -> 38833 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0116.png | bin | 0 -> 41833 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0117.png | bin | 0 -> 43692 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0118.png | bin | 0 -> 37447 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0119.png | bin | 0 -> 43816 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0120.png | bin | 0 -> 46611 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0121.png | bin | 0 -> 47754 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0122.png | bin | 0 -> 43153 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0123.png | bin | 0 -> 45299 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0124.png | bin | 0 -> 43980 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0125.png | bin | 0 -> 45767 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0126.png | bin | 0 -> 44916 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0127.png | bin | 0 -> 42434 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0128.png | bin | 0 -> 44791 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0129.png | bin | 0 -> 46484 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0130.png | bin | 0 -> 43297 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0131.png | bin | 0 -> 45986 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0132.png | bin | 0 -> 44452 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0133.png | bin | 0 -> 43523 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0134.png | bin | 0 -> 45836 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0135.png | bin | 0 -> 42911 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0136.png | bin | 0 -> 43206 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0137.png | bin | 0 -> 36756 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0138.png | bin | 0 -> 40469 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0139.png | bin | 0 -> 45540 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0140.png | bin | 0 -> 41673 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0141.png | bin | 0 -> 43353 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0142.png | bin | 0 -> 43007 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0143.png | bin | 0 -> 43187 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0144.png | bin | 0 -> 42916 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0145.png | bin | 0 -> 47061 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0146.png | bin | 0 -> 46687 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0147.png | bin | 0 -> 43505 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0148.png | bin | 0 -> 48150 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0149.png | bin | 0 -> 42109 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0150.png | bin | 0 -> 41962 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0151.png | bin | 0 -> 48517 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0152.png | bin | 0 -> 40471 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0153.png | bin | 0 -> 45717 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0154.png | bin | 0 -> 47428 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0155.png | bin | 0 -> 39508 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0156.png | bin | 0 -> 33957 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0157.png | bin | 0 -> 36120 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0158.png | bin | 0 -> 40705 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0159.png | bin | 0 -> 47506 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0160.png | bin | 0 -> 41238 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0161.png | bin | 0 -> 35604 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0162.png | bin | 0 -> 34374 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0163.png | bin | 0 -> 40515 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0164.png | bin | 0 -> 43607 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0165.png | bin | 0 -> 44237 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0166.png | bin | 0 -> 39819 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0167.png | bin | 0 -> 36648 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0168.png | bin | 0 -> 39285 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0169.png | bin | 0 -> 41378 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0170.png | bin | 0 -> 39960 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0171.png | bin | 0 -> 42936 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0172.png | bin | 0 -> 42149 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0173.png | bin | 0 -> 44921 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0174.png | bin | 0 -> 45118 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0175.png | bin | 0 -> 46010 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0176.png | bin | 0 -> 43886 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0177.png | bin | 0 -> 45665 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0178.png | bin | 0 -> 47016 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0179.png | bin | 0 -> 44677 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0180.png | bin | 0 -> 26034 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0181.png | bin | 0 -> 25689 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0182.png | bin | 0 -> 42840 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0183.png | bin | 0 -> 42103 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0184.png | bin | 0 -> 40705 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0185.png | bin | 0 -> 41186 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0186.png | bin | 0 -> 45881 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0187.png | bin | 0 -> 45918 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0188.png | bin | 0 -> 46687 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0189.png | bin | 0 -> 46379 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0190.png | bin | 0 -> 41702 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0191.png | bin | 0 -> 45327 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0192.png | bin | 0 -> 45719 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0193.png | bin | 0 -> 46046 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0194.png | bin | 0 -> 42666 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0195.png | bin | 0 -> 44933 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0196.png | bin | 0 -> 47981 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0197.png | bin | 0 -> 45490 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0198.png | bin | 0 -> 43801 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0199.png | bin | 0 -> 45150 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0200.png | bin | 0 -> 43939 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0201.png | bin | 0 -> 37224 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0202.png | bin | 0 -> 40028 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0203.png | bin | 0 -> 44362 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0204.png | bin | 0 -> 43542 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0205.png | bin | 0 -> 43828 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0206.png | bin | 0 -> 45477 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0207.png | bin | 0 -> 41744 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0208.png | bin | 0 -> 44943 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0209.png | bin | 0 -> 45617 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0210.png | bin | 0 -> 39424 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0211.png | bin | 0 -> 42111 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0212.png | bin | 0 -> 41817 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0213.png | bin | 0 -> 38761 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0214.png | bin | 0 -> 46409 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0215.png | bin | 0 -> 43589 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0216.png | bin | 0 -> 40678 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0217.png | bin | 0 -> 45077 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0218.png | bin | 0 -> 44228 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0219.png | bin | 0 -> 42987 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0220.png | bin | 0 -> 47098 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0221.png | bin | 0 -> 41082 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0222.png | bin | 0 -> 46283 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0223.png | bin | 0 -> 44066 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0224.png | bin | 0 -> 48125 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0225.png | bin | 0 -> 39418 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0226.png | bin | 0 -> 43073 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0227.png | bin | 0 -> 46017 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0228.png | bin | 0 -> 39372 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0229.png | bin | 0 -> 45561 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0230.png | bin | 0 -> 46107 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0231.png | bin | 0 -> 46567 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0232.png | bin | 0 -> 45313 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0233.png | bin | 0 -> 43580 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0234.png | bin | 0 -> 46436 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0235.png | bin | 0 -> 43489 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0236.png | bin | 0 -> 48429 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0237.png | bin | 0 -> 46996 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0238.png | bin | 0 -> 45357 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0239.png | bin | 0 -> 43168 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0240.png | bin | 0 -> 48140 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0241.png | bin | 0 -> 40974 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0242.png | bin | 0 -> 42594 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0243.png | bin | 0 -> 43238 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0244.png | bin | 0 -> 37283 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0245.png | bin | 0 -> 40837 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0246.png | bin | 0 -> 47293 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0247.png | bin | 0 -> 45812 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0248.png | bin | 0 -> 46305 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0249.png | bin | 0 -> 41104 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0250.png | bin | 0 -> 46708 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0251.png | bin | 0 -> 46774 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0252.png | bin | 0 -> 43906 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0253.png | bin | 0 -> 39753 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0254.png | bin | 0 -> 39814 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0255.png | bin | 0 -> 42458 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0256.png | bin | 0 -> 45710 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0257.png | bin | 0 -> 13040 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0258.png | bin | 0 -> 36197 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0259.png | bin | 0 -> 45084 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0260.png | bin | 0 -> 43835 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0261.png | bin | 0 -> 42959 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0262.png | bin | 0 -> 44254 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0263.png | bin | 0 -> 46826 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0264.png | bin | 0 -> 49210 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0265.png | bin | 0 -> 43448 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0266.png | bin | 0 -> 45570 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0267.png | bin | 0 -> 44499 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0268.png | bin | 0 -> 48902 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0269.png | bin | 0 -> 45175 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0270.png | bin | 0 -> 43315 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0271.png | bin | 0 -> 45252 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0272.png | bin | 0 -> 47058 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0273.png | bin | 0 -> 40254 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0274.png | bin | 0 -> 10254 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0275.png | bin | 0 -> 36572 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0276.png | bin | 0 -> 45984 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0277.png | bin | 0 -> 44356 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0278.png | bin | 0 -> 45236 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0279.png | bin | 0 -> 43297 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0280.png | bin | 0 -> 44078 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0281.png | bin | 0 -> 46462 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0282.png | bin | 0 -> 41303 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0283.png | bin | 0 -> 45932 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0284.png | bin | 0 -> 42074 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0285.png | bin | 0 -> 45628 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0286.png | bin | 0 -> 39945 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0287.png | bin | 0 -> 39397 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0288.png | bin | 0 -> 40575 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0289.png | bin | 0 -> 42812 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0290.png | bin | 0 -> 37264 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0291.png | bin | 0 -> 39576 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0292.png | bin | 0 -> 42667 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0293.png | bin | 0 -> 37390 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0294.png | bin | 0 -> 38806 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0295.png | bin | 0 -> 46784 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0296.png | bin | 0 -> 40370 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0297.png | bin | 0 -> 40240 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0298.png | bin | 0 -> 44204 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0299.png | bin | 0 -> 43037 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0300.png | bin | 0 -> 39114 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0301.png | bin | 0 -> 39067 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0302.png | bin | 0 -> 35783 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0303.png | bin | 0 -> 44762 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0304.png | bin | 0 -> 42911 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0305.png | bin | 0 -> 38102 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0306.png | bin | 0 -> 43416 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0307.png | bin | 0 -> 34345 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0308.png | bin | 0 -> 38733 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0309.png | bin | 0 -> 45883 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0310.png | bin | 0 -> 37095 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0311.png | bin | 0 -> 42431 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0312.png | bin | 0 -> 47029 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0313.png | bin | 0 -> 44757 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0314.png | bin | 0 -> 43766 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0315.png | bin | 0 -> 32597 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0316.png | bin | 0 -> 46064 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0317.png | bin | 0 -> 47546 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0318.png | bin | 0 -> 44009 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0319.png | bin | 0 -> 43759 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126-page-images/p0320.png | bin | 0 -> 29051 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126.txt | 9151 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 26126.zip | bin | 0 -> 189957 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 |
337 files changed, 30598 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/26126-8.txt b/26126-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6114974 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9151 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Poor Man's House, by Stephen Sydney Reynolds + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: A Poor Man's House + + +Author: Stephen Sydney Reynolds + + + +Release Date: July 25, 2008 [eBook #26126] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POOR MAN'S HOUSE*** + + +E-text prepared by Malcolm Farmer and the Project Gutenberg Online +Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) + + + +A POOR MAN'S HOUSE + +by + +STEPHEN REYNOLDS + +"_We understand the artificial better +than the natural. More soul, but less +talent, is contained in the simple than +in the complex._"--NOVALIS. + + + + + + + +London: John Lane The Bodley Head +New York: John Lane Compy. MCMIX +All rights reserved + +Turnbull and Spears, Printers, Edinburgh + + + +TO +BOB +AND TO +EDWARD GARNETT + + + + +A few chapters, chosen from the completed work, have appeared in the +_Albany Review_, the _Daily News_ and _Country Life_. To the editors +of those periodicals the author's acknowledgments are due. + + + + +_PREFACE_ + + +The substance of "A Poor Man's House" was first recorded in a journal, +kept for purposes of fiction, and in letters to one of the friends to +whom the book is dedicated. Fiction, however, showed itself an +inappropriate medium. I was unwilling to cut about the material, to +modify the characters, in order to meet the exigencies of plot, form, +and so on. I felt that the life and the people were so much better than +anything I could invent. Besides which, I found myself in possession of +conclusions, hot for expression, which could not be incorporated at all +into fiction. "A Poor Man's House" consists then of the journal and +letters, subjected to such slight re-arrangement as should enable me to +draw the truest picture I could within the limits of one volume. + +Primarily the book aims at presenting a picture of a typical poor man's +house and life. Incidentally, certain conclusions are expressed +which--needless to say--are very tentative and are founded not alone on +_this_ poor man's house. Of the book as a picture, it is not the +author's place to speak. But its opinions, and the manner of arriving +at them, do require some explanation; the right to hold such opinions +some substantiation. + +Educated people usually deal with the poor man's life deductively; they +reason from the general to the particular; and, starting with a theory, +religious, philanthropic, political, or what not, they seek, and too +easily find, among the millions of poor, specimens--very frequently +abnormal--to illustrate their theories. With anything but human +beings, that is an excellent method. Human beings, unfortunately, have +individualities. They do what, theoretically, they ought not to do, +and leave undone those things they ought to do. They are even said to +possess souls--untrustworthy things beyond the reach of sociologists. +The inductive method--reasoning from the particular to the +general--though it lead to a fine crop of errors, should at least help +to counterbalance the psychological superficiality of the deductive +method; to counterbalance, for example, the nonsense of those +well-meaning persons who go routing about among the poor in search of +evil, and suppose that they can chain it up with little laws. Chained +dogs bite worst. + +For myself, I can only claim--I only want to claim--that I have lived +among poor people without preconceived notions or _parti pris_; neither +as parson, philanthropist, politician, inspector, sociologist nor +statistician; but simply because I found there a home and more beauty +of life and more happiness than I had met with elsewhere. So far as is +possible to a man of middle-class breeding, I have lived their life, +have shared their interests, and have found among them some of my +closest and wisest friends. Perhaps I may reasonably anticipate one +type of criticism by adding that I have felt something of the pinch and +hardship of the life, as well as enjoyed its picturesqueness. Since the +book was first written, it has fallen to me, on an occasion of illness, +to take over for some days all the housekeeping and cooking; and I have +worked on the boats sometimes fifteen hours a day, not as an amateur, +but for hard and--what is more to the point--badly-needed coin. It took +the gilt off the gingerbread, but it didn't spoil the gingerbread! + +Would it were possible to check by ever so little the class-conceit of +those people who think that they can manage the poor man's life better +than he can himself; who would take advantage of their education to +play ducks and drakes with his personal affairs. For it is my firm +belief that in the present phase of national evolution, and as regards +the things that really matter, the educated man has more to learn of +the poor man than to teach him. Even Nietzsche, the philosopher of +aristocracy, went so far as to say that _in the so-called cultured +classes, the believers in 'modern ideas,' nothing is perhaps so +repulsive as their lack of shame, the easy insolence of eye and hand +with which they touch, taste, and finger everything; and it is possible +that even yet there is more_ relative _nobility of taste, and more tact +for reverence among the people, among the lower classes of the people, +especially among peasants, than among the newspaper-reading_ demi-monde +_of intellect, the cultured class_. + +S. R. + +SEACOMBE, 1908. + + + + +_A POOR MAN'S HOUSE_ + + + + +I + + + EGREMONT VILLAS, + SEACOMBE, _April_. + + +1 + +The sea is merely grinding against the shingle. The _Moondaisy_ lies +above the sea-wall, in the gutter, with her bottom-boards out and a +puddle of greenish water covering her garboard strake. Her hunchbacked +Little Commodore is dead. The other two of her old crew, George Widger +and Looby Smith are nowhere to be seen: they must be nearly grown up +by now. The fishermen themselves appear less picturesque and salty +than they used to do. It is slack time after a bad herring season. +They are dispirited and lazy, and very likely hungry. + +These old lodgings of mine, with their smug curtains, aspidestria +plant, china vases and wobbly tables and chairs.... + +But I can hear the sea-gulls screaming, even here. + + +2 + +[Sidenote: _GEORGE GONE TO SEA_] + +Yesterday morning I met young George Widger, now grown very lanky but +still cat-like in his movements. He was parading the town with a couple +of his mates, attired in a creased blue suit with a wonderful yellow +scarf around his neck, instead of the faded guernsey and ragged +sea-soaked trousers in which he used to come to sea. What was up? I +asked his father, and Tony had a long rigmarole to tell me. George had +got a sweetheart. Therefore George had begun to look about him for a +sure livelihood. George was not satisfied with a fisherman's prospects. +"Yu works and drives and slaves, and don't never get no forarder." So +George had gone to the chief officer of coastguards without saying a +word to his father and had been found fit. George had joined the Navy. +He was going off to Plymouth that very day at dinner-time. + +It is like a knight of romance being equipped by his lady for the wars. +But what must be the difficulty to a young fisherman of earning his +bread and cheese, when all he can do for his sweetheart is to leave her +forthwith! There's a fine desperation in it. + +Tony seemed rather proud. "They 'ouldn't think as I had a son old +enough for the Navy, wude they, sir? I married George's mother, her +that's dead, when I wer hardly olden'n he is. I should ha' joined the +Navy meself if it hadn' been for the rheumatic fever what bent me like. +I am. 'Tis a sure thing, you see--once yu'm in it an' behaves +yourself--wi' a pension at the end o'it. But I'm so strong an' +capable-like for fishing as them that's bolt upright, on'y I 'ouldn't +ha' done for the Navy. Aye! the boy's right. Fishing ain't no job for a +man nowadays; not like what it used to be. They'll make a man of him in +the Navy." + +In the evening, after dark, I saw Tony again. He was standing outside a +brilliantly lighted grocer's shop, his cap awry as usual, and a reefer +thrown over his guernsey. Something in the despondency of his attitude +haled me across the road. "Well, Tony? George is there by now?" + +"Iss ... I-I-I w-wonder what the boy's thinking o'it now...." + +The man was crying his heart out. "I come'd hereto 'cause it don' seem +'s if I can stay in house. Went in for some supper a while ago, but I +cuden' eat nort. 'Tisn' 's if he'd ever been away from home before, yu +know." + +"Come along down to the Shore Road, Tony." + +It seemed wrong, hardly decent, to let his grief spend itself in the +lighted-up street. The Front was deserted and dark, for there was rain +in the wind, and the sound of the surf had a quick savage chop in it. +Away, over the sea, was a great misty blackness. + +As we walked up and down, Tony talked between tears and anger--tears +for himself and George, anger at the cussedness of things. He looked +straight before him, to where the row of lamps divided the lesser from +the greater darkness, the town noises from the chafing surf; it is the +only time I have ever seen a fisherman walk along shore without a +constant eye on the sea. + +"He's taken and gone away jest as he was beginning to be o' some use +wi' the boats, an' I thought he wer settling down. _I_ didn' know what +wer going on, not till he came an' told me he wer off. But 'tisn' +that, though I bain't so strong as I was to du all the work be meself; +'tis what he's a-thinking now he've a-lef' home an' 'tis tu late to +come back if he wants tu. He's ther, sure 'nuff, an' that's all about +it." + +In the presence of grief, we are all thrown back on the fine old +platitudes we affect to despise. "You mustn't get down over it, Tony," +I said. "That won't make it a bit the better. If he's steady--woman, +wine and the rest--he'll get on right enough. He's got his wits about +him; knows how to sail a boat and splice a rope. That's the sort they +want in the Navy, I suppose. _He_'ll make his way, never fear. Think +how you'll trot him out when he comes home on leave. Why, they say a +Devon man's proper place is the Navy." + +"Iss, they du. _I_ should ha' been there meself if it hadn' been for +the rheumatics--jest about coming out on a pension now, or in the +coastguards. I _be_ in the Royal Naval Reserve, but I ain't smart +enough, like, for the Navy. The boy...." + +"He's as smart and strong as they make 'em." + +"Aye! he's smart, or cude be, but he'll hae to mind what he's a-doin' +there. _They_ won't put up wi' no airs like he've a-give'd me. +Yu've got to du what yu'm told, sharp, an' yu mustn't luke [look] what +yu thinks, let 'lone say it, or else yu'll find yourself in chokey +[cells] 'fore yu knows where yu are. 'Tis like walking on a six-inch +plank, in the Navy, full o' rules an' regylations; an' he won't get fed +like he was at home nuther, when us had it." + +[Sidenote: _GROG AS A SLEEPING DRAUGHT_] + +"Why don't you go to bed and sleep, Tony?" + +"How can I sleep wi' me head full o' what the boy's thinking o'it all!" + +More walking and he calmed down a little. + +"Come and have some hot grog for a sleeping draught, Tony, and then go +home to bed." + +"Had us better tu?" + +"Come along, man; then if you go straight to bed you'll sleep." + +"I on'y wish I cude. The boy must be turned in by this time. 'Tis like +as if I got a picture of him in my mind, where he is, an' he ain't +happy--_I_ knows." + +When Tony went down the narrow roadway, homewards, he had had just the +amount of grog to make him sleep: no more, no less. That father's +grief--the boy gone to sea, the father left stranded ashore--it was bad +to listen to. While going up town, I wondered with how much sorrow the +Navy is recruited. We look on our sailors rather less fondly than on +the expensive pieces of machinery we send them to sea in. I don't think +I shall ever again be able to regard the Navy newspaper-fashion. It +seems as if someone of mine belongs to it.... + +Lucky George! to be so much missed. + +This morning, when I saw Tony on the Front, he was more than a little +awkward; looked shyly at me, from under his peaked cap, as if to read +in my face what I thought of him. He had slept after all, and spoke of +the hot grog as a powerful, strange invention, new to him as a sleeping +draught. When, in talking, I said that I have only a back bedroom and a +fripperied sitting room, and that my old lodgings do not please me as +they used to, he clapped me on the shoulder with a jollity intended, I +think, to put last night out of my mind. "What a pity yu hadn't let we +know yu cuden't find lodgings to your liking. Us got a little room in +house where they sends people sometimes from the Alexandra Hotel when +they'm full up. My missis 'ould du anything to make 'ee comfor'able. Yu +an't never see'd her, have 'ee? Nice little wife, I got. Yu let us know +when yu be coming thees way again; that is, if yu don' mind coming wi' +the likes o' us. We won't disturb 'ee." + +[Sidenote: _A NOISY PLACE_] + +Good fellow! It was his thanks. However I shall be going home +to-morrow. Tony Widger lives, I believe, somewhere down the Gut, in +Under Town, a place they call the Seacombe slum. You can see a horde of +children pouring in and out of the Gut all day long, and in the evening +the wives stand at the seaward end of it, to gossip and await their +husbands. Noisy place.... + + + + +II + + + SALISBURY, + _July_. + +A card from Tony Widger: + + Dear Sir in reply to your letter I have let to the hotel which is + full for the 28th july until the 6th Aus, but I have one little + room to the back but you did not say about the time it would take + you to walk down also John to Saltmeadow have let so you can have + that room if you can manage or you can see when you come down their + are a lot of People in Seacombe or you write and let me know and I + will see if I can get rooms for you if you tell me about the time + you will be hear from yours Truly Anthony Widger. + +Risky; but never mind. There is always the sea. It is something to have +the certainty of a bed at the end of a long day's tramp. Besides, I +want to see Tony, and George too, if by chance he is at home. And there +may be a little fishing. And-- + + And stepping westward seems to be + A kind of _heavenly_ destiny. + +That's the real feeling at the back of my mind. _I want_ to go west, +towards the sunset; over Dartmoor, towards Land's End, where the +departing ships go down into the sea. + + + + +III + + + SEACOMBE, + _July-August_. + + +1 + +After a hundred miles of dusty road, it is good to snuff the delicately +salted air. The bight of the Exe, where we crossed it by steam launch, +was only a make-believe for the sea. How wonderfully the slight +rippling murmur of a calm sea flows into, and takes possession of one's +mind. + +I stood by the shore and watched the boats, and was very peaceful. Then +I went down the Gut to the house that I guessed was Anthony Widger's. +Many children watched me with their eyes opened wide at my knapsack. A +pleasant looking old woman--short, stout, charwoman-shaped--came out of +the passage just as I raised my hand to knock the open door. "Are you +Mrs Widger?" said I. + +"Lor' bless 'ee! I ben't Mrs Widger. Here, Annie! Here's a gen'leman to +see 'ee." + +Mrs Widger, the afternoon Mrs Widger, is a quite slim woman +who--strangely enough for a working man's wife--looks a good deal +younger than she is. She has rather beautiful light brown hair and +dresses tastefully. I am afraid she will not feel complimented if the +old woman tells her of my mistake. + +Her manner of receiving me indicated plainly a suspended judgment, +inclined perhaps towards the favourable. I was shown my room, a little +long back room, with ragged wall-paper, and almost filled up by a huge, +very flat, squashy bed. After a wash-over (I did not ask for a bath for +fear of exposing the lack of one) I went down to tea. + +Bread, jam and cream were put before me, together with fairly good hot +tea from a blue, smoky, enamelled tin teapot which holds any quantity +up to a couple of quarts. Mrs Widger turned two guernseys, a hat, +several odd socks, and a boot out of a great chintz-covered chair which +lacked one of its arms. To my _made_ conversation she replied shortly: + +"Dear me!" "My!" "Did you ever...." She was taking stock of me. + +Presently she went to a cupboard, which is also the coal-hole, and +brought out an immense frying-pan, black both inside and out. She +heated it till the fat ran; wiped out it with a newspaper; then placed +in it three split mackerel. "For Tony's tea," she explained. "He's to +sea now with two gen'lemen, but I 'spect he'll be in house sune." + +Voices from the passage: "Mam! Tay! Mam, I wants my tay!" + +[Sidenote: _TEA-TIME_] + +A deeper voice: "Missis, wer's my tay? Got ort nice to eat?" + +It was Tony himself, accompanied by a small boy and a slightly larger +small girl. + +"Hullo, sir! Yu'm come then. Do 'ee think you can put up wi' our little +shanty? Missis ought to ha' laid for 'ee in the front room. Us got a +little parlour, you know.--I be so wet as a drownded corpse, Missis!" + +The two children stood on the other side of the table, staring at me as +if I were a wild beast behind bars which they scarcely trusted. "'Tis a +gen'leman!" exclaimed the girl. + +"Coo'h!" the boy ejaculated. + +Tony turned on them with make-believe anger: "Why don' 'ee git yer tay? +Don' 'ee know 'tis rude to stare?" + +"Now then, you children," Mrs Widger continued in a strident voice, +buttering two hunks of bread with astonishing rapidity. "Take off thic +hat, Mabel. _Sit_ down, Jimmy." + +"Coo'h! Jam!" said Jimmy. "Jam zide plaate, like the gen'leman, please, +Mam Widger." + +"When you've eat that." + +I never saw children munch so fast. + +Tony took off his boots and stockings, and wrung out the ends of his +trousers upon the hearth-rug. He pattered to the oven; opened the door; +sniffed. + +"Her's got summat for my tay, I can see. What is it, Missis? Fetch it +out----quick, sharp! Mackerel! Won' 'ee hae one, sir? Ther's plenty +here." + +Whilst Mrs Widger was helping him to the rest of his food, he ate the +mackerel with his fingers. Finally, he soaked up the vinegar with +bread, licked his finger-tips and turned towards me. "Yu'm in the +courting chair, sir. That's where me an' Missis used to sit when we was +courting, en' it, Annie? Du 'ee see how we've a-broke the arm? When yu +gets a young lady, us'll lend 'ee thic chair. Didn' know as I'd got a +little wife like thees yer, did 'ee? Ay, Annie!" + +He turned round and chucked her under the chin. + +"G'out, you dirty cat!" cried Mrs Widger, flinging herself back in the +chair--yet not displeased. + +It was a pretty playful sight, although Mrs Widger's voice is rather +like a newspaper boy's when she raises it. + + +2 + +This morning, when I arrived downstairs, the kitchen was all of a +caddle. Children were bolting their breakfast, seated and afoot; were +washing themselves and being washed; were getting ready and being got +ready for school. Mrs Widger looked up from stitching the seat of a +small boy's breeches _in situ_. "I've a-laid your breakfast in the +front room." + +Thither I went with a book and no uncertain feeling of disappointment. + +[Sidenote: _BREAKFAST IN THE PARLOUR_] + +The front room looks out upon Alexandra Square. It is, at once, +parlour, lumber room, sail and rope store, portrait gallery of +relatives and ships, and larder. It is a veritable museum of the +household treasures not in constant use, and represents pretty +accurately, I imagine, the extent to which Mrs Widger's house-pride is +able to indulge itself. But I have had enough at Salisbury of eating my +meals among best furniture and in the (printed) company of great minds. +The noise in the kitchen sounded jolly. Now or never, I thought. So +after breakfast, I returned to the kitchen and asked for what bad +behaviour I was banished to the front room. + +"Lor'! If yu don't mind this. On'y 'tis all up an' down here...." + + +3 + +I went yesterday to see my old landlady at Egremont Villas. She asked +me where I was lodging. + +"At Tony Widger's, in Alexandra Square." + +"Why, that's in Under Town." + +"Yes, in Under Town." + +"Oh, law! I can't think how you can live in such a horrid place!" + +On my assuring her that it was not so very horrid, she rearranged her +silken skirts on the chair (a chair too ornamentally slight for her +weight) and tilted up her nose. "I must get and lay the table," she +said, "for a lady and gentleman that's staying with me. _Very_ nice +people." + +[Sidenote: _ALEXANDRA SQUARE_] + +Under Town has, in fact, an indifferent reputation among the elect. Not +that it is badly behaved; far from it. The shallow-pated resent its not +having drawn into line with their cheap notions of progress. If Under +Town had put plate-glass windows into antique buildings.... Visitors to +Seacombe, not being told, hardly so much as suspect the existence of +its huddled old houses and thatched cottages. The shingle-paved Gut +runs down unevenly from the Shore Road between a row of tall lodging +houses and the Alexandra Hotel, then opens out suddenly into a little +square which contains an incredible number of recesses and sub-corners, +so to speak, with many more doors in them than one can discover houses +belonging to the doors. Two cottages, I am told, have no ground floors +at all. Cats sun themselves on walls or squat about gnawing fish bones. +A houdan cockerel with bedraggled speckly plumage and a ragged crest +hanging over one eye struts from doorstep to doorstep. The children, +when any one strange walks through the Square, run like rabbits in a +warren to their respective doors; stand there, and stare. Tony Widger's +house is the largest. Once, when Under Town was Seacombe, a lawyer +lived here--hence the front passage. It has a cat-trodden front garden, +in which only wall-flowers and some box edging have survived. Over the +front door is a broken trellis-work porch. Masts and spars lean against +the wall. The house is built of red brick, straight up and down like an +overgrown doll's house, but the whole of the wall is weathered and +toned by the southerly gales which blow down the Gut from the open sea. +Those same winds see to it that Alexandra Square does not smell +squalid, however it may look. At its worst it is not so depressing as a +row of discreet semi-detached villas. It is, I should imagine, a pretty +accurate mirror of the lives that are lived in it--poor men's lives +that scarcely anybody fathoms. If one looks for a moment at a house +where people have starved, or are starving.... What a gift of hope they +must possess--and what a sinking in their poor insides! + + +4 + +This morning they told me how my little hunchbacked Commodore died. He +had been ailing, they said; had come to look paler and more pinched in +his small sharp face. Then (it was a fisherman who told me this): "He +was in to house one morning, an' I thought as 'e were sleepin', an' I +said, 'Harry, will 'ee hae a cup o' tay; yu been sleeping an't 'ee?' +An' 'e says, 'No, I an't; but I been sort o' dreaming.' An' 'e said as +he'd see'd a green valley wi' a stream o' water, like, running down the +middle o' it, an' 'e thought as 'e see'd Granfer there (that us losted +jest before 'en) walking by the stream. A'terwards 'e sat on 's +mother's lap, like 's if 'e wer a child again, though 'e wer nearly +nineteen all but in size; an' 'e jest took an' died there, suddent an' +quiet like; went away wi'out a word; an' us buried 'en last January up +to the cementry on land." + +So the _Moondaisy_'s luckiest fisherman packed up and went. + + +5 + +It is astonishing how hungry and merry these children are, especially +the boys. They rush into the kitchen at meal times and immediately make +grabs at whatever they most fancy on the table. + +[Sidenote: _MAN AND GEN'LEMAN_] + +"Yu little cat!" says their mother, always as if she had never +witnessed such behaviour before. "Yu daring rascal! Put down! I'll gie +thee such a one in a minute. Go an' sit down to once." Then they climb +into chairs, wave their grubby hands over the plates, in a pretence of +grabbing something more, and spite of the whacks which sometimes fall, +they gobble their food to the accompaniment of incessant tricks and +roars of shrill laughter. Never were such disorderly, hilarious meals! +If Tony is here they simply laugh at his threats of weird punishment, +and if he comes in late from sea, they return again with him and make a +second meal as big as the first. Sometimes, unless the food is cleared +away quickly, they will clamour for a third meal, and clamour +successfully. What digestions they must have to gobble so much and so +fast! + +To judge by their way of talking, they divide the world into folk and +gentlefolk. "Who gie'd thee thic ha'penny?" Mrs Widger asked Jimmy. + +"A man, to beach." + +"G'out!" said Mabel. "Twas a gen'leman." + +"Well...." + +"Well, that ain't a _man_!" + +Usually, at breakfast time, the voices of Tony's small nieces may be +heard coming down the passage: "Aun-tieAnn-ie! Aunt-ieAnn-ie!" Their +tousled, tow-coloured little heads peep round the doorway. If we have +not yet finished eating, they are promptly ordered to 'get 'long home +to mother.' Otherwise, they come right in and remain standing in the +middle of the room, apparently to view me. Unable to remember which is +Dora and which Dolly, I have nicknamed them according to their hair, +Straighty and Curley. What they think of things, there is no knowing; +for they blush at direct questions and turn their heads away. So also, +when I have been going in and out of the Square, they have stopped +their play to gaze at me, but have merely smiled shyly, if at all, in +answer to my greetings. Yesterday, however, they had a skipping rope. I +jumped over it. Instantly there was a chorus of laughter and chatter. +The ice was broken. This morning, after a moment or two's consideration +behind her veil of unbrushed hair, Straighty came and clambered upon +the arm of the courting chair--dabbed a clammy little hand down my +neck, whilst Curley plumped her fist on my knee and stayed looking into +my face with very wondering smiling blue eyes. By the simple act of +jumping a rope, I had gained their confidence; had proved I was really +a fellow creature, I suppose. Now, when I pass through the Square, some +small boy is sure to call out, "Where yu going?" And my name is +brandished about among the children as if I were a pet animal. They +have appropriated me. They have tamed that mysterious wild beast, 'the +gen'leman.' + +One boy, Jimmy--a very fair-headed, blue-eyed, chubby little chap, +seven years old--Tony's eldest boy at home--seems to have taken a +particular fancy to me. Whether it began with bananas, or with my +giving him a pick-a-back to the top of the cliffs, I hardly know. At +all events he has decided that I am a desirable friend. He has shown me +his small properties--his pencil, and his boats that he makes out of a +piece of wood with wing-feathers for sails and a piece of tin, stuck +into the bottom, for centre-keel;--has told me what standard he is in +at school; and one of the first things I hear whenever he comes into +the house, is: "Mam! Wher's Mister Ronals?" + +[Sidenote: _JIMMY OUT TO TEA_] + +To-day, on my way to the Tuckers' to tea, I passed Jimmy's school. The +boys were just let loose. Jimmy left a yelling group of them to come +along with me. Nearby the Tuckers' gate, I told him where I was going, +and said _Good-bye_. Jimmy fell behind. But whilst we were at tea, I +repeatedly saw a white head sneaking round the laurels outside the +window, and blue eyes peeping. Miss Tucker had him in; whereupon, +rather shyly, with hands horribly grubby from the school slates, Jimmy +ate much bread and butter and many cakelets, and ended up by tucking +three apples into his blouse. He came home very pleased indeed with +himself. + +Tony was almost angry. "However come'd 'ee, Missis, to let 'em go out +to a gen'leman's to tay in thic mess?" + +"Stupid! How cude I help o'it?" + +"What did 'ee think o'it, Jimmy?" + +"The lady gie'd I dree apples!" + +Tony, though shocked, was also pleased; Jimmy delighted. Every now and +then he draws himself up with a "Coo'h! I been out to tay wi' Mister +Ronals!" + +They have a strange way, these children, of placing their hands on one, +smiling up into one's face, and saying nothing. It has the effect of +making one feel their separate, distinct personalities, and, +additionally, of making one feel rather proud of the approbation of +those small personages who think so much and divulge so little. + + +6 + +There has been no fishing. Either the sea has been too rough to ride to +a slingstone[1] for blinn and conger, or else too calm, so that the +mackerel hookers[2] could not sail out and therefore no fresh bait was +to be had. It is quite useless to fish for conger with stale bait. Tony +tells me that I ought to be here in a month's time, when he will have +fewer pleasure parties to attend to, and will go out for mackerel, +rowing if he cannot sail. He says there will _have_ to be a good +September hooking season, because, though the summer has been fair, the +fisherfolk have not succeeded in putting by enough money to last out +the winter, should the herrings fail to come into the bay, as they have +failed the last few years. I should like to _work_ at the mackerel +hooking with him. Indeed, although I am looking forward to a glorious +tramp across Dartmoor, yet I am more than half sorry that I have a room +bespoken at Prince Town for the day after to-morrow. + + [1] A heavy stone used instead of an anchor over rocks, among + which an anchor might get stuck and lost. + + [2] After the end of July, the mackerel are mostly caught not in + nets, but by trailing a line behind a sailing boat. + +[Sidenote: _AN INOPPORTUNE REMARK_] + +Putting aside one or two things that are unpleasant--a few +disagreeables resolutely faced--it is wonderful how rapidly one feels +at home here. The welcome, the goodfellowship, is so satisfying. This +morning, the visitor from the hotel, who has Mrs Widger's front +room, so far presumed on the fact that we were educated men among +uneducated--both gen'lemen, Tony would say--as to remark flippantly +though not ungenially, "The Widgers are not bad sorts, are they? I +say, what a mouth Mrs Widger's got!" + +Mrs Widger has a noticeably wide mouth; I know that perfectly well; but +I can hardly say how indignant I felt at his light remark; how +insulted; as if he had spoken slightingly of someone belonging to me. + + + + +IV + + + PRINCE TOWN, + _August_. + + +1 + +When I took leave of the Widgers, there was the question of payment for +my board and lodging. We were just finishing breakfast; the children +had been driven out, Mrs Widger was resting awhile, and the table, the +whole kitchen, was in extreme disorder. + +I asked Mrs Widger what I owed, and, as I had expected, she replied +only: "What you'm minded to pay." + +"Three and six a day," I suggested. + +"Not so much as that," said Mrs Widger. "'Tisn't like as if us could du +for 'ee like a proper lodging house." + +"Don' 'ee think, Missis," said Tony, "as we might ask 'en jest to make +hisself welcome." + +It was out of the question, of course. The mackerel season has been so +bad. Mrs Widger shot at Tony a look he failed to see. Otherwise, she +did not let herself appear to have heard him. + +The discussion hung. + +"Say three shillings, then," I suggested again. + +"That 'll du," returned Mrs Widger, allowing nothing of the last few +minutes' brain-work to show itself in her voice. + +[Sidenote: _HOTEL LIFE_] + +Mrs Widger knows what it is to have to keep house and feed several +hungry children on earnings which vary from fairly large sums (sums +whose very largeness calls for immediate spending) to nothing at all +for weeks together. + +As I was setting out, Jimmy said to his mother: "Don' 'ee let Mister +Ronals go, Mam 'Idger." He followed me to the end of the Gut; would +have come farther had I not sent him back. That, and Tony's desire to +make me welcome, brightened the bright South Devon sunshine. I kept +within sight of the sea as long as possible. The little sailing boats +on it looked so nimble. I have a leaning to go back, a sort of +hunger.... + + +2 + +[Sidenote: _DAWDLING v. WALKING_] + +I don't think I can remain here. To-morrow I shall move on, and tramp +around the county back to Seacombe. The Moor is as splendid as ever, +but this hotel life, following so soon on the life of Under Town.... +Though the good, well-cooked food, neither so greasy nor so starchy as +Mrs Widger's, is an agreeable change, I sit at the table d'hôte and +rage within. I am compelled to hear a conversation that irritates me +almost beyond amusement at it. These people here are on holiday. Most +of them, by their talk, were never on anything else. They chirp in +lively or bored fashion, as the case may be, of the things that don't +matter, of the ornamentations, the superfluities and the relaxations of +life. At Tony Widger's they discuss--and much more merrily--the things +that do matter; the means of life itself. Here, they say: "Is the table +d'hôte as good as it might be? Is the society what it might be? Is it +not a pity that there is no char-à-banc or a motor service to Cranmere +Pool and Yes Tor?" There, the equivalent question is: "Shall us hae +money to go through the winter? Shall us hae bread and scrape to eat?" +Here, a man wonders if in the strong moorland air some slight +non-incapacitating ailment will leave him: illness is inconvenient and +disappointing, but not ruinous. There, Tony wonders if the exposure and +continual boat-hauling are not taking too much out of him; if he is not +ageing before his time; if he will not be past earning before the +younger children are off his hands. Here, they laugh at trifles, +keeping what is serious behind a veil of conventional manners, lest, +appearing in broad daylight, it should damp their spirits. There, they +laugh too, and at countless trifles; but also courageously, in the face +of fate itself. By daring Nemesis, they partially disarm her. With a +laugh and a jest--no matter if it be a raucous laugh and a coarse +jest--they assert: "What will be, will be; us can't but du our best, +for 'tis the way o'it." Here, they skate over a Dead Sea upon the ice +of convention; but there, they swim in the salted waters, swallow great +gulps, and nevertheless strike out manfully, knowing no more than +anyone else exactly where the shore lies, yet possessing, I think, an +instinct of direction. Here, comfort is at stake: there, existence. +Coming here is like passing from a birth and death chamber into a +theatre, where, if the actors have lives of their own, apart from +mummery, it is their business not to show them. It is like watching a +game from the grand stand, instead of playing it; betting on a race +instead of running it. The transition hither is hard to make. Retired +athletes, we know, suffer from fatty degeneration of the heart; retired +men of affairs decay. I have walked lately at five miles an hour with +the Widgers, and I do not relish dawdling at the rate of two with these +people here. Better risk hell for heaven than lounge about paradise for +ever. + + + + +V + + + UNDER TOWN, SEACOMBE, + _September_. + + +1 + +A fine tramp from Totnes--and such a welcome back! Jimmy met me +three-quarters of a mile up the road, very much farther than he usually +strays from the beach. "I thought as yu was coming this way 'bout now, +Mister Ronals. Dad's been out hooking an' catched five dozen mackerel +before breakfast. Mam's sick. I be coming out wiv yu t'morrow morning. +Dad couldn't go out after breakfast, 'cause it come'd on to blow. I've +'schanged my pencil, what yu give'd me, for a knife wi' two blades." So +anxious was he to take me in house that he scarcely allowed me time to +go down to the Front and look at the sea and at the boats lying among a +litter of nets and gear the length of the sunny beach. + +Mrs Widger hastened to bring out the familiar big enamelled teapot, +flung the cloth over the table and began to cut bread and butter. +"Coo'h! tay!" exclaimed Jimmy. "That's early, 'cause yu be come, Mister +Ronals." + +"Be yu glad Mr Ronals 's come back?" his mother asked. + +[Sidenote: _THE CHILDREN_] + +"Iss...." + +"What for?" I asked jocularly. + +"'Cause yu gives us bananas--an' pennies sometimes." + +"'Sthat all yu'm glad for?" said Mrs Widger. "Pennies an' bananas?" + +"No vear!" said Jimmy; and he meant it. + +All the while, Tommy (Jimmy's younger brother, about five years old) +was sitting up to table, looking at the jam-jar with one eye and at me +with the other. He squints most comically, and is a more self-contained +young person than Jimmy. Four of the children are at home; Bessie, +Mabel, Jimmy and Tommy; George and the eldest girl are away. Bessie and +Mabel, too, are out the greater part of the day, either at school, or +else helping their aunts, or minding babies (poor little devils!), or +running errands for the many relatives who live hereabout. Both of them +are more featureless, show less of the family likeness, than the boys. +One cannot so easily forecast their grown-up appearance. At times, +during the day, they come in house with a rush, but say little, except +to blurt out some (usually inaccurate) piece of news, or to tell their +step-mother that: "Thic Jimmy's out to baych--I see'd 'en--playin' wi' +some boys, an' he's got his boots an' stockings so wet as...." + +"Jest let 'en show his face in here! _He_ shan't hae no tea! He shall +go straight to bed!" shouts Mrs Widger, confident that hunger will +eventually drive Jimmy into her clutches. + +The two girls, in fact, do not seem to enter so fully as the boys into +the life of the household, though they are always very ready to take up +the responsibility of keeping the boys in order. + +"Jimmy! Tommy--there! Mother, look at thic Jimmy! Mother, Tommy's +fingering they caakes!" + +"I'll gie thee such a one in a minute! Let 'lone.... Ther thee a't, +Mabel, doin' jest the same, 's if a gert maid like yu didn't ought to +know better." + +"Did 'ee ever hear the like o'it?" asks Tony. "Such a buzz! Shut up, +will 'ee, or _I'll_ gie thee summut to buzz for! Wher's thic stick?" + +The children merely laugh at him. + + +2 + +[Sidenote: _TONY'S WEDDING_] + +At supper to-night, Tony was talking about his second wedding and about +his children, who, dead and alive, number twelve. "Iss, 'tis a round +dozen, though I'd never ha' thought it," he said reckoning them up on +his fingers. "Ther be six living an' four up to the cementry, an' two +missing, like, what nobody didn' know nort about, did they, Annie? +Janie--that's my first wife, afore this one,--her losted three boys +when they was two year an' ten months old, an' one year an' seven +months, an' nine months old. An' her died herself when Mabel here was +six months old, didn' 'er, Annie? An' yu've a-losted Rosie, an' the +ones what never appeared in public. Our last baby, after Tommy, wer two +boys, twinses. One wer like George an' one like Tommy most; one wer my +child an' t'other wer yours, Annie. Six on 'em dead! Aye, Tony've a +see'd some trouble, I can tell 'ee, an' he ain't so old as what some on +'em be for their age, now, thru it all. But it du make a man's head +turn like." + +Mrs Widger's gaze at him while he talked about the dead children was +wonderful to see--wide-eyed, soft, unflinching--wifely and motherly at +once. + +"John," Tony continued, speaking of his youngest brother who has only +two children, "John du say as a man what's got seven or eight childern +be better off than a man what's got on'y two, like he, 'cause he don't +spend so much on 'em. 'Tis rot, I say! Certainly, he du spend so much +on each o' his as us du on two o' ours p'raps; but I reckon a hundred +pounds has to be wrenched an' hauled out o' these yer ol' rheumaticy +arms o' mine for each child as us rears up." + +"Yes--'t has--gude that," said Mrs Widger. + +"'Tisn' that I don' du it willingly. I be willing enough. But it du +maake a man du more'n he'd hae to du otherwise, an' it wears 'en out +afore his time. Tony's an ol' man now, almost, after the rate, though +he bain't but forty or thereabout, an' s'pose us has six or a dozen +more come along, Annie...." + +"Gude Lord! 'Twon't be so bad as that, for sure. An' if 'tis, can't be +helped. Us must make shift wi' 'em." + +Then they went on to talk about their wedding. Best remembered, +apparently, are the _hot_ wedding breakfast (an innovation then in +these parts), the Honiton lace that Mrs Widger's mother made her, and +the late arrival home from the village where they were married--a trick +which procured them quietness, whilst depriving the people in the +Square of an excitement they had stayed up half the night to witness. +"When us come'd home, 'twas all so dark and quiet as a dead plaace, an' +the chil'ern asleep upstairs, an' all," said Tony. + +"Yes, 'twer," Mrs Widger broke in, her eyes brightening at the +recollection of the successful trick. "But 'twer queer, like, wi' the +childern asleep upstairs what wer to be mine, an' wasn't. I did wonder +to meself what I wer starting on. Howsbe-ever I wer fair maazed all +thic day. _I_ wasn' ready when Tony drove out to where us lived, not +I." + +"No-o-o! Her had her sleeves tucked up like 's if her 'adn't finished +her housework. Her wern't dressed nor nothin' to ree-ceive me." + +"I didn' know what I wer doing all thic day." + +[Sidenote: _LOVE-PLAY_] + +"An' the parson, _I_ had to pay for he, an' he give'd the money back to +she 'cause her wer a nice li'I thing--bit skinny though. 'Twer a maazed +muddle like. _I_ ought to ha' had thic money be rights." + +"G'out! But I did the ol' parson up here. Us didn' hae no banns put up +to Seacombe. I told the clergyman to our home that Tony'd been livin' +there dree days, or dree weeks, or whatever 'twas, an' _he_ didn' know +no better. 'Twon't be the first lie I've told, says I to meself n'eet +[nor yet] the last. I saved thee thic money, Tony." + +"Ah, yu'm a saving dear, ben' 'ee. Spends all my money." + +"Well for yu! I should like to know what yu'd do wi' it if yu hadn't +had me to lay it out for 'ee." + +Tony did not wish to question that. The recollection of the wedding had +put him in high spirits. He got up from his second supper (so long as +food remains on the table he takes successive meals with intervals for +conversation between them), and pirouetted round the table singing, + + "Sweet Ev-eli-na, sweet Ev-eli-na! + My lo-ove for yu-u + Shall nev-ver, never die...." + +He dragged Mrs Widger out of her chair, whisked her across the room. +"There!" he said, setting her down flop. "'En't her a perty li'I dear!" + +Once again, after another little supper, he got up and held Mrs Widger +firmly by the chin, she kicking out at his shins the while. "Did 'ee +ever see the like o'it? Eh? Fancy ol' Tony marryin' thic! Wouldn' 'ee +like a kiss o'it? I du dearly. Don' I, Missis?" + +"G'out!" says Mrs Widger, speaking furiously, but smiling affectionately. +"G'out, you fule! Yu'm mazed!" + +Tony returned to his third supper quite seriously, only remarking: "I +daresay yu thinks Tony a funny ol' fule, don' 'ee?" + +[Sidenote: _BIRTH IN THE SQUARE_] + +That, I did not. Indeed, I begin to think them peculiarly wise. There +is the spontaneity of animals about their play, and a good deal of the +unembarassed movements of animals--with something very human +superadded. One reads often enough about the love-light in the eyes of +lovers, and sometimes one catches sight of it. Either frank ridicule, +or else great reverence, is the mood for witnessing so delicate and +strong, so racial a thing. Yet this love-light, seen in the eyes of a +man and wife who have been married ten years, and have settled down +long ago to the humdrum of married life, seems to me a far finer +manifestation of the hither mysteries, a far greater triumph. What +freshness, what perpetual rejuvenation they must possess! The more one +regards such a thing, the more magnificent and far-reaching it appears. +No philosophical bulwark against trouble can compare with it. Such love +ceases to be a matter for novels and selected moments and certain lusty +ages; ceases to be exceptional. It is the greatest of those very great +things, the commonplaces. Tony tells me that when he comes in at night, +cold from fishing, Mrs Widger always turns over to the other side of +the bed, leaving him a warm place to creep into. Mrs Widger says that +no matter what time Tony comes in or gets up, he never fails to make, +and take her up, a cup o' tay. So does their love direct the prosaic +details of living in one house together. I do not think I am wrong in +fancying that it percolates right down through the household, and even +contributes to the restfulness I feel here, spite of unorderly children +and the strident voices. "Yu dang'd ol' fule!" can mean so much. Here +it appears to be an expression of almost limitless confidence. + +Mrs Widger has put me this time into the front bedroom, which overlooks +the Square and has, through the Gut, a narrow view of the sea. + +Tony's sister, who lives almost next door, is giving birth to a child +this evening. I can see the light in her window--a brighter light than +usual,--and the shadows passing across the yellow blind. Many other +eyes are turned towards the window. There is a subdued chatter in the +Square. + + +3 + +Little did I foresee what sleeping in the front bedroom means. Tony's +sister gave birth to a boy about ten o'clock. On hearing that +everything was as it should be, I went to bed, but, alack! not to +sleep. For the subdued chatter grew into an uproar which continued till +fully midnight. All the women in the neighbourhood seemed to have come +this way; and they meg-megged, and they laughed, and when their +children awoke they shouted up at the windows from outside. I heard +snatches of childbearing adventures, astonishing yarns, interspersed +with hard commonsense, not to say cynicism--the cynicism of people who +cannot afford to embroider much the bare facts of existence or to turn +their attention far from the necessities of life. "Her'll be weak," one +woman said, "an' for a long time--never so strong as her was before. +'Tis always worse after each one you has, 'cepting the first, which is +worst of all, I say. But there, her must take it as it comes...." + +Sundry other bits of good practical philosophy I perforce listened to; +and at last, when everybody had turned in (I imagined their pleasant +lightheadedness as they snuggled under the bedclothes in the stuffy +cottage rooms--the witticisms and echoes of laughter that were running +through their heads); when, I say, everybody had turned in, an offended +dog in the hotel yard began to howl. + +If it were not that the window of the back bedroom is over the +scullery, the ash-heap and the main drain, I would ask to move back +there. + +In Under Town a birth makes the stir that is due to such a stupendous +event. + + +4 + +[Sidenote: _THE KITCHEN_] + +The Widger's kitchen is an extraordinary room--fit shrine for that +household symbol, the big enamelled tin teapot. At the NW. corner is +the door to the scullery and to the small walled-in garden which +contains--in order of importance--flotsam and jetsam for firewood, old +masts, spars and rudders, and some weedy, grub-eaten vegetables. At the +top of the garden is a tumble-down cat-haunted linhay, crammed to its +leaky roof with fishing gear. No doubt it is the presence everywhere of +boat and fishing gear which gives such a singular unity to the whole +place. + +The kitchen is not a very light room: its low small-paned window is in +the N. wall. Then, going round the room, the courting chair stands in +the NE. corner, below some shelves laden with fancy china and +souvenirs--and tackle. The kitchener, which opens out into quite a +comforting fireplace, is let into the E. wall, and close beside it is +the provision cupboard, so situated that the cockroaches, having ample +food and warmth, shall wax fat and multiply. Next, behind a low dirty +door in the S. wall, is the coalhole, then the high dresser, and then +the door to the narrow front passage, beneath the ceiling of which are +lodged masts, spars and sails. The W. wall of the kitchen is decorated +with Tony's Oddfellow 'cistificate,' with old almanacs and with a +number of small pictures, all more or less askew. + +There is an abundance of chairs, most of them with an old cushion on +the seat, all of them more or less broken by the children's racket. +Over the pictures on the warm W. wall--against which, on the other +side, the neighbour's kitchener stands--is a line of clean +underclothing, hung there to air. The dresser is littered with fishing +lines as well as with dry provisions and its proper complement of odd +pieces of china. Beneath the table and each of the larger chairs are +boots and slippers in various stages of polish or decay. Every jug not +in daily use, every pot and vase, and half the many drawers, contain +lines, copper nails, sail-thimbles and needles, spare blocks and +pulleys, rope ends and twine. But most characteristic of the kitchen +(the household teapot excepted) are the navy-blue garments and jerseys, +drying along the line and flung over chairs, together with innumerable +photographs of Tony and all his kin, the greater number of them in +seafaring rig. + +Specially do I like the bluejacket photographs; magnificent men, some +of them, though one strong fellow looks more than comical, seated amid +the photographer's rustic properties with a wreath of artificial fern +leaves around him and a broadly smiling Jolly-Jack-Tar face protruding +from the foliage. Some battleships, pitching and tossing in fearful +photographers' gales[3] and one or two framed memorial cards complete +the kitchen picture gallery. + + [3] Composite pictures apparently; made from a photograph of a + ship and of a bad painting of a hurricane. + +It is a place of many smells which, however, form a not disagreeable +blend. + +An untidy room--yes. An undignified room--no. Kitchen; scullery (the +scullery proper is cramped and its damp floor bad for the feet); eating +room; sitting room; reception room; storeroom; treasure-house; and at +times a wash-house,--it is an epitome of the household's activities and +a reflexion of the family's world-wide seafaring. Devonshire is the sea +county--at every port the Devonian dialect. It is probably the pictures +and reminders of the broad world which, by contrast, make Mrs Tony's +kitchen so very homely. + + +5 + +[Sidenote: _A DUTCH AUCTION_] + +Almost every evening, just now, Mrs Widger goes off to a Dutch auction +of hardware and trinkets at the Market House. She usually brings home +some small purchase, worth about half the money she has paid; but if +she were to go to an entertainment at the Seacombe Hall she would be +not nearly so well amused as by the auctioneer and the other +housewives, and at the end of the evening she would have nothing +whatever to show for her money. Besides, the children would never go +off to bed quietly if they imagined that she was going to a real +entertainment. As she did not return very early last night, Tony and I +got our own supper--bread, cheese, a great deal of Worcester sauce, and +a pint of mother-in-law [stout and bitter] from the Alexandra. Then we +drew up to the fire and smoked. John, healthy and powerful fellow, had +been arguing in the daytime on the beach, that if a youth cannot do a +man's work at seventeen, he never will. Tony disagreed. Twenty-five to +thirty-five, he says, is a man's prime for strength and endurance +together. Nevertheless, he is sure that he often did more than a man's +work long before he was seventeen, which led him to talk about his +boyhood, when Granfer and Gran Widger had frequently not enough food in +the house for their many children to eat. "Us had to rough it when I +wer a boy, I can tell 'ee," says Tony. "'Twer often bread an' a scraape +o' fat an' _Get 'long out o'it_!" + +[Sidenote: _TONY'S DUTIES_] + +At nine years old, Tony was put with old Cloade, the grocer, now dead; +and by the time he was twelve, he was earning four shillings a week, +not a penny of which he ever saw or had as 'spending money'; for his +mother used to go to the shop every Saturday night and lay out all poor +Tony's wages in groceries. The only pocket-money he ever received was a +copper or two 'thrown back' from what he could earn by going to sea for +mackerel early enough to return to work by half-past six in the +morning. Besides running errands, he had to clean boots and knives and +to scrub out and tidy up the bar, which in those days was attached to +every Devon grocery. Then he could go home to breakfast. And if old +Cloade was going up on land, shooting, Tony had to get up and wake him +at half-past three and to cork bottles or something of that sort before +the master started out for his day's sport. And again, if Tony had +fallen foul of any of the shop assistants during the day, had cheeked +them perhaps, or stayed overlong at meals, then, waiting till closing +time at eight or nine in the evening, they would send him a couple of +miles inland, to the top of the hills, with a late parcel of groceries. +His possible working day was from 3.30 a.m. to 10.0 p.m. + +The chief part of his work, when he was not cleaning up or running +errands, was the sorting of fruit and the cracking of sugar. Every nail +of his fingers has come off more than once on account of the damage +done them by the sugar-cracker. Better than any national event, he +recollects the introduction of cube sugar. "When they tubs o' +ready-cracked sugar fust come'd down to Seacombe, 'twer thought a gert +thing--an' so 'twas." + +Nearly every year an attack of (sub-acute?) rheumatic fever gave him a +painful holiday, during which he crawled about the crowded cottage at +home on his hands and knees. The one advantage of his irregularly long +hours was that, if work were slack, he could linger over his meals. It +was the assistants who kept a sharp eye on his movements. Them he +hated--and cheeked. "The more I done, the worse they treated me. An' as +I grow'd up an' did often enough more'n a man's work, so I got to know +it. One day I stayed home more'n an hour to breakfast, an' one on 'em +asted me wer I'd a-been, an' I said as I'd had me half-hour to +breakfast, an' he said as I'd had an hour an' a half, an' I told 'en +'twern't no business o' his an' dared 'en to so much as touch me or I'd +knock his head in, which I could easily ha' done--an' there wer the +master standin' by! 'Fore I knowed, he gie'd me one under one yer wi' +one hand, an' one under t'other yer wi' t'other hand; knocked me half +silly; an' said if he had any more o' my chake he'd send me going +thereupon. 'Iss, I said, 'an I _will_ go, an' if I can't pick up a +livin' on the baych wi' fishin' (I 'adn't no boats then, n'eet for +years a'ter), an' if I couldn't pick up a livin' wi' fishin', I'd go to +sea. An' I took an' lef the shop, an' went wi'out me pay due nor nort +further about it. + +"Well, I should think as I stayed away two or dree days, saying as, if +I couldn' live _by_ the sea, I'd go off _tu_ sea. By'm-by, ol' Mr +Cloade--I could al'ys get on all right wi' he hisself--'twer they +assistants.... Mr Cloade come'd down to baych an' said as he'd rise me +wages be two shillings, from four shillings to six a week. So I went +back. But 'twern't for long, for I wer turned seventeen then, an' +strong, an' I knowed that six shillin's a week, every penny o' which +mother laid out in groceries--p'raps givin' me dreepence for meself +latterly--that wern't no wage for me doing more'n a man's work, early +an' laate, at everybody's beck an' call. 'Twern't vitty. + +[Sidenote: _BRUISED ORANGES AND BRUISES_] + +"It come'd soon a'ter.... I wer sorting oranges, an' one o' the +assistants called like they al'ays did: 'Widger, Widger! _Widger!_ +Yer, Widger!' 'Twer al'ays, 'Widger! Widger!' in thic show--blarsted +row! 'I wants 'ee to take thees yer parcel to Mr Brindley-Botton's +(what used to live to Southview House) in time for lunch. Hurry up!'" + +Tony, in short, put a couple of the bruised oranges into his pocket, +ran off, and delivered his parcel at Southview House. On the way back, +he ate one of the oranges and, boyishly, threw the peel about outside +Mr Brindley-Botton's side gate. He heard someone shouting to him +and--but without turning his head--he shouted "Hell about it!" airily +back. Then, as it was the dinner hour, he loitered on the Green Patch +to play marbles with some other lads, and to share the second bruised +orange. On returning to Cloade's: + +"Whu did I see but Mr Brindley-Botton's coachman wi' a little packet in +white paper. 'Twas thic orange peel, all neatly done up, an' a li'I +note saying as I'd a-been cheeky to him, which I hadn't, not knowingly. +Mr Cloade, he called me into his little office, asted me what I'd been +doing, where I went, an' where I got the oranges. + +"'Bought 'em,' says I. + +"'Twas a lie, an' I hadn't no need for to tell it, seeing I was al'ays +free to take a bruised orange or two when I wer sorting of 'em. On'y I +wer frightened. 'Where did you get them?' he asked. + +"'Up to Mrs Ashford's for a penny,' says I. + +"'Did you?' + +"'Yes, sir,' says I. + +"'Are you telling me a lie? I can find out, mind.' + +"'No, sir,' I said. + +"'Be you sure you ain't telling of a lie?' + +"Then I broked down, an' I said they was bruised ones what I'd a-took. +Father, he wer working to Mr Cloade's then, fishing being bad, an' the +master called he. _He_ walloped me--walloped me with a rope's end. An' +I swore as I'd never go back no more, an' I didn't. Every time Father +tried to make me, I up an' said as I'd go to sea. + +[Sidenote: _OUT DRIFTING ALL NIGHT_] + +"Ay! for all I'm a man now, I 'ouldn't like to work like I did +then--more'n a man's work an' less'n a boy's pay, an' hardly a penny +for meself. I tells John _he_ don't know what 'tis to work like I did +then. _I_'ouldn't du it no more." + +But, with his father's boat, Tony did work far harder--hooking mackerel +at dawn, in with a catch and out to sea again, or up on land hawking +them round; out drifting all night; crabbing, lobster-potting, +shrimping,[4] wrinkling,[5] or taking out frights,[6] wet and dry, +rough and calm, day and night. "Aye, an' I be suffering from it now. +Thees yer bellyache what thins me every summer an' wears a fellow out, +don't come from nothing but tearing about then. I wer al'ays on the +tear, day an' night, in from sea to meals an' out again 'fore I'd had +time to bolt down two mouthfuls. Often I wer so tired that Father'd hae +to call me a dozen times afore I cude wake up, an' then I'd cry, _cry_, +if I wer ten minutes laate to work--when I had summut to du on land, +that was. Half the day I wer more asleep than awake, wi' bein' out +fishing all night. But I didn' let 'em see it. Not I! Rather'n that, +I'd go up to the closet an' catch off there for five minutes, before +they shude see I wern't fit to du me work. An' I never had nort o' me +own for years, for all I done. Whether I earned two pound, or thirty +shillings, or nothing at all, I never had so much as a penny for +pocket-money, to call me own. I had to take it all in house--aye! an' +tips too, when I got 'em. Father, he wern't doing much then, an' ther +were seven younger'n me. That's where my earnings went. An' me, as did +the work, was wearing Mother's boots an' Father's jacket." + + [4] Prawning. + + [5] Periwinkle gathering. + + [6] Freights, _i.e._ pleasure parties. + +When Tony was indisputably grown up, one half of what he earned went, +according to custom, to the boat-owner, in this case his father, +frequently had be thu to pay for repairs and new gear. That went on for +years after he was married--'hauling an' rowing an' slaving an' pulling +me guts out wi't!'--until, in fact, the present Mrs Widger insisted on +his buying boats of his own. + +[Sidenote: _THE DEAD NOT WHOLLY SO_] + +Our talk shifted to Tony's first wife, who died (and Tony almost died +too) as the result of the landlord's taking up the drains, and leaving +them open, in the height of a hot summer. Tony told me about her people +and her native place, a fishing village along the coast. He showed me +photographs of her, and a framed, pathetically ugly, imitation cameo +memorial, which is getting very dirty now. I knew he loved her very +much. He nearly went out of his mind when she died, leaving him with +four young children. The untidy little kitchen, with its bright fire, +its deep shadows and its white clothes hung along the line; Tony's +drooping figure, bent over the hearth in an old blue guernsey: the +contrasting redness of his face, and the beam of light from a cracked +lamp-shade falling across his wet, memory-stuck blue eyes.... The +kitchen seemed full of the presence of the long-dead woman whom Tony +was still grieving for in some underpart of his mind. "Iss, her was a +nice woman," he said, "a gude wife to me; a gude wife: I hadn't no +complaint to make against she." + +The one shabby sentence hit into me all his sorrow, that which remains +and that which has sunk into time. + + * * * * * + +The Mrs Widger that is, returned from the Dutch auction with an +elaborate badly-plated cruet. "Al'ays using up my saxpinces what I has +to slave for," said Tony. + +"G'out! 'Tis jest what us wants." + +"You won't never use it." + +"We'll hae it out on thy birthday--there! Will that zatisfy thee?" + +"Not afore then? I wer born at the end o' the year, an' that's why I +al'ays gets lef' behind." + +"Not a day before thy birthday! What'll yu be saying if I buys sauces +to put in all they bottles?" + +"Cut glass, is it?" + +"No! What d'yu think?" + +"What a woman 'tis! Gie yer Tony a kiss then." + +"G'out yu fule!" + +The wise fool took a kiss. We had a second supper and hot grog. We were +merry. But when I said _Good night_, I saw in Tony's eyes a recognition +that I had understood (so he felt, I think) some part of what he +seldom, if ever, brings up now to talk about. + +Only a yarn about a man's first wife.... If so, why did I go to bed +feeling I had been privileged beyond the ordinary? Wives die every day; +worn out, most of them. There came into my mind's eye with these +thoughts a picture of the open sea; yet hardly a picture, for I was +there in the midst of it. On the waves and low-lying clouds, and +through the murk, was the glimmer of a light which, I felt, would make +everything plain, did it but increase. For a moment it flickered +up--and there, over the stormy sea, I saw death as a kindly illusion. I +do not understand the wherefore of my little vision, nor why it made my +heart give one curious great thump.... + +A cats' courtship beneath my window broke it off. + + +6 + +[Sidenote: _THE "MOONDAISY"_] + +Five or six years ago, when I was ill and left Seacombe, as I thought, +for good, I did not relish selling the _Moondaisy_. I was too fond +of her. So I gave her to the two men who had asked for the first and +second refusals of her, and neither of whom possessed a small sailing +boat. But I reckoned without those superficial beach jealousies which +overlie the essential solidarity of the fishermen. Neither man used her +much. Neither man looked after her. She was a bone of contention that +each feared to gnaw. While the poor little craft lay on the beach, or +in the gutter above the sea-wall, the mice ate holes into her old sail +and her gear was distributed half-way over Under Town. + +Granfer, however, had in his cottage an old dinghy sail that fits the +_Moondaisy_. Her yard and boom were in his linhay, the sheet and +downhaul in Tony's. One oar, the tholepins, and the ballast bags have +not yet been found. I bent on the sail, spliced the sheet to the boom; +borrowed tholepins from Uncle Jake,[7] ballast bags and a mackerel line +with a very rusty hook from Tony, an oar from John--and, at last, put +to sea. + + [7] Granfer's brother, Tony's uncle. + +The wind--westerly, off land--was too puffy for making the sheet fast. +I held it with one hand and tried to fish with the other. In order not +to stop the way of the boat and risk losing the lead on the sea-bottom, +I wore her round to lew'ard, instead of tacking to wind'ard. A squall +came down, the sail gybed quickly, and the boom slewed over with a +jerk, just grazing the top of my head. Had that boom been a couple of +inches lower, or my head an inch or two higher.... I should have been +prevented from sailing the _Moondaisy_ home, pending recovery from +a bashed skull. Everything aboard that was loose, myself included, +scuttled down to lew'ard with a horrid rattle. A malicious little gush +of clear green water, just flecked with foam, spurted in over the gun'l +amidships. I wondered whether I could have swum far with a cracked +skull: the _Moondaisy_'s iron drop-keel would have sunk her, of +course. Why I was fool enough to wear the boat round so carelessly, I +don't know. + +Anyhow, I wound up the mackerel line; my catch, nil. Such an occurrence +makes one very respectful towards the fisherman who singlehanded can +sail his boat and manage five mackerel lines at once--one on the thwart +to lew'ard and one to wind'ard; a bobber on the mizzen halyard and two +bobbers on poles projecting from the boat. He must keep his hands on +five lines, the tiller and the sheet; his eyes on the boat's course, +the sea, the weather and the luff of the sail. Probably I know rather +more of the theory of sailing than he does; but, when a squall blackens +the sea to wind'ard, whilst I am thinking whether to run into the wind +or ease off the sheet; whilst by doing neither or both, I very nearly +capsize, or else stop the boat's way and lose my mackerel leads on the +bottom--he, almost without thinking, does precisely what is needful, +and another mackerel is hooked long before I should have brought the +boat up into the wind again. + +[Sidenote: _FISHERMEN'S SKILL_] + +The greatest charm of sailing lies in this: that it is the art of +making a boat move by dodging, by taking advantage of, a score of +possible dangers. Except when running before the wind, it is the +capsizing-power of the wind which propels the boat. The fisherman is an +artist none the less because his skill seems partly inborn; because he +sails his boat airily and carelessly, yet grimly--for life and the +bread and cheese of it. The 'poor fisherman' for whom appeals to +charity are made, as if he were a hardworking, chance-fed, picturesque +but ignorant and helpless creature, is more than a trader, more than a +skilled labourer in a factory. To a peculiar extent he sells himself as +well as his skill and his goods. He lives contingently on his own life. + + +7 + +All that day the wind out in the Channel was blowing fresh from the +sou'west, as we could see by the blackness of the horizon and the +saw-edged sea-line beyond the outer headlands. During the afternoon, a +ground-sea crept into the bay, silently rolling in like an unbidden +unannounced guest who will not name his business. And when, at the turn +of the tide, the breeze in-shore also backed to the sou'west, a busy +lop was superposed on the long heaving swell.[8] About half-past seven, +the Widgers were gathered together near their boats. + + [8] A _lop_ is a short choppy sea raised by the immediate action + of a breeze. A _swell_ consists of the long heaving waves which + follow, and sometimes precede, a storm. The diverse action of + different sorts of waves on a shingle beach is interesting. Short + seas (_i.e._ short from crest to crest), even when they are very + high, have not nearly the force or _run_ of a long, though much + lower ground-swell; that is they neither run so far up the beach + nor so greatly endanger the boats. All kinds of waves possess + more run at spring than at neap tides. A lop on a swell at spring + tide is therefore the most troublesome of all to the fishermen. + +"What time be it high tide?" asked Granfer. "'Bout ten, en' it?" + +"Had us better haul the boats up over?" said Tony. "Tides be dead, en't +they?" + +"No-o-o," replied Uncle Jake. "They 'en making." + +"'Tis goin' to blow, I tell 'ee," said Granfer. "See how brassy the +sun's going down. Swell coming in too. Boats up be boats safe." + +"Hould yer bloody row," said John. "What be talking 'bout? Plenty o' +time to haul up if the sea makes." + +"All very well for yu," Tony protested, "living right up to Saltmeadow. +If the sea urns up to the boats in the night yu won't be down to lend a +hand, no, not wi' yer own boats. 'Tis us as lives to the beach what has +to strain ourselves to bits hauling your boats up over so well as our +own." + +"Let 'em bide, then!" + +"Looks dirty, I say," said Granfer. "Might jest so well haul up as bide +here talking about it. _I_ shan't sleep till I knows the boats be all +right." + +"Thee't better lie awake then. An't got no patience wi' making such a +buzz afore you wants tu." With that, John shouldered his coat and +strode homewards. + +[Sidenote: _JOHN WIDGER_] + +The rest of us pulled the boats up, John's included, till their stems +touched the sea-wall, and we placed the two sailing boats, John's and +Tony's, close beside the steps, handy for hauling up over if need +should be. + +Tony and Granfer went in house. Uncle Jake watched them go with an +ironical smile on his wrinkled old face. "Don't like the looks o' this +yer lop on a ground-swell," he said. "There! Did 'ee see how thic sea +licked the baych? Let one o' they lift yer boat.... My zenses! 'Tis all +up wi' it, an' I should pick it up in bits, up 'long, for +firewood.--Well, John's gone home along...." + +John is the youngest, handsomest and most powerfully built of the +Widgers; the most independent, most brutal-tongued and most logical, +though not, I fancy, the most perceptive. The inborn toughness, the +family tendency to health and strength, which made fine men of the +elder Widgers in spite of their youthful exposure and privations, has, +in the case of John who underwent fewer hardships, resulted in the +development, unimpeded, of a wonderful physique. "Never heard o' John +being tired," says Uncle Jake. + +Premature toil did not bend him; what he is the others had it in them +to be, and by their labour helped to make him. Because his spirit has +never been so buffeted, let alone broken, by hard times, he is also the +most self-reliant. And like the majority of lucky men, he takes fate's +forbearance as his due and adds it to his own credit. Fair-haired, +blue-eyed, his clean-shaven face deeply and clearly coloured; a +combination of the Saxon bulldog type with the seafaring man's +alertness; his heavy yet lissome frame admirably half-revealed by the +simplicity of navy-blue guernsey and trousers,--it is one of the sights +of Seacombe to see him walk the length of the Front with his two small +boys. He lacks, however, the gift of expressing himself, except when he +is angry--and then in a torrent of thrashing words. He communicates his +good-will by smiling all over his face with a tinge of mockery in his +eyes and the bend of his long neck; whether mockery at oneself or at +things in general is not evident. (It is mainly, I think, by smiling at +one another that we remain the very good friends we are.) In any +discussion, his "Do as yu'm minded then!" is his signal for making +others do as _he_ is minded. The advantages possessed by him--health, +strength, clear-headedness, and good looks--he knows how to use, and +that without scruple. He is never hustled by man or circumstance; +seldom gives himself away; and seldom acknowledges an obligation. What +one might reasonably expect him to do in return for help or even +payment, he carelessly, deliberately, leaves undone, and performs +instead some particularly nice action when it is least of all +anticipated. His opinion is respected less because it is known, than +because it isn't known, and by playing in the outer world with a crack +football team he adds to his prestige here. "What du John say?" is +often asked when it doesn't matter even what John thinks. Without +gratitude for it, unconsciously perhaps, he exacts from others a sort +of homage, which is certainly not rendered without protest. "There's +more'n one real lady as John could ha' married if he'd a-been liked," I +heard Granfer say over his beer one day. "The way they used to get he +to take 'em out bathing in a boat.... Put 'en under the starn-sheets, I +s'pose--he-he-he-he-he! But they real ladies du tire o' gen'lemen +sometimes. Some on 'em had rather have a strong fellow like John. He +married out o' the likes o' us, as 'twas. Her what he married used to +eat wi' the gen'leman's family what her come'd yer with; sort o' +companion-nurse her was." + +[Sidenote: _A NICE DISTINCTION_] + +Once, when the _Moondaisy_ was mine, John charged me sixpence for +putting me ashore from the steamer, after he had been earning money +with my boat that very same day. There is no meanness in his face, and +I wondered who had taught him so to distinguish between the borrowing +of a private boat and the use of a craft that was on the beach for +hire--a perfectly sound distinction. Probably it was some +commercial-minded lodger or beach-chatterer, from whom he picked up the +opinion that nowadays, to get on, you must run with the hare and hunt +with the hounds--a precept which he quotes with cynical gusto but +carries out only so far as suits his feelings. He aims at being +businesslike, but the businesslike side of his character is the more +superficial. Pride will not allow him to boggle over bargains. "Take +it, or leave it," is his way. Most up-to-date in what he does do, he is +no pioneer, and follows a lead grudgingly when innovations are in +question. Most progressive outwardly, he is the most conservative at +heart. A reader of his daily paper, he speaks the broadest Devon of +them all; scrupulously groomed after the modern way, and a smoker of +cigarettes (he was laughed out of a pipe I've heard say), he still +wears the old-fashioned seaman's high-heeled shoes. Tobacco is his +obvious, his humane, weakness. What his other weaknesses are, I don't +know. He strikes one as master of his fate, never yet wrecked, nor +contemplating it. Did such a misfortune occur ... who knows what would +happen? He is now, in his youth, so full of strength. + + * * * * * + +About ten o'clock, Tony, who was snoozing in the courting chair (Mrs +Widger had gone on to bed) woke up with a "How about they boats?" I +went out to look. + +[Sidenote: _THE HIGH TIDE WAVES_] + +The sea was covered with that pallid darkness which comes over it when +the moon is hidden behind low rain-clouds. Out of the darkness, the +waves seemed to spring suddenly, without warning at one's very feet. +Every now and then, when a swell and a lop came in together, their +combined steady force and quick energy swept right up the beach, +rattling the pebbles round the sterns of the boats. For the better part +of an hour I waited. Then, after a sea had thrown some shingle right +into a boat, I called Tony. + +"'Tis past high water, en' it?" he said sleepily. + +"Thee't better come out an' see for thyself!" + +He dragged himself up and out. "'Tis al'ys like thees yer wi' the likes +o' us. 'Tis a life o'it!" + +"Aye," he said, "the say's goin' down now sure 'nuff. Better git in +house again. Raining is it?" + +"God! Look out!" + +A sea lifted Tony's and John's sailing boats; was sweeping them down +the beach. We rushed, one to each boat, and hung on. Another sea swept +the pebbles from under our feet--it felt as if the solid earth were +giving way. + +"Those was the high tide waves," said Tony. "If us hadn' a-come out +both they boats 'ould ha' been losted. Yu've a-saved John his--all by +chance. Aye! that's like 'tis wi' us, I tell thee. Yu never knows.--Be +'ee going to bed now?" + +I stayed out a little while longer: the loss of boats means so much to +men whose only capital they are. Just after Tony had gone in, the +clouds parted and the moonlight burst with a sudden glory over the sea. +In the moonglade, which reached from my feet to the far horizon, the +waters heaved and curled, most silvery, as if they were alive. That was +the wistful gentle sea from which, but a moment or two before, we had +wrested back our property--that sea of little strivings within a large +peace. I thought at the time that there was surely a God, and that as +surely He was there. For which reason, I was glad, when I came in +house, that Tony had gone on to bed. + + * * * * * + +This morning John asked me: "Whu's been moving my boat?" + +"The sea, last night." + +"Oh...." + +"I'm going to make a salvage claim on your insurance company." + +"H'm?" + +"Happened to be out here and hung on, or else she'd have been swept +down the beach." + +"Did you?" + +"That's it--while yu were snug." + +"Have 'ee got a cigarette on yu?--Match?--Thank yu." + + +8 + +[Sidenote: _MRS PINN_] + +When I came into the kitchen early last evening, there was an old woman +sitting bolt upright in the courting chair. At least, I came to the +conclusion that she really was old after a moment or two's +watchfulness. Her flowered hat, her shape--though a little angular and +stiff,--her gestures and her bright lively damson-coloured eyes were +all youthful enough. But one could see that her inquiet hands, which +were folded on her lap, had been worn by many a washing-day. Her skin, +though wrinkled, was taut over the outstanding facial bones, as if the +wrinkles might have opened out and have equalized the strain, had age +not hardened them to brown cracks--and the tan of her complexion had +old age's lack of clearness. As so often happens when the teeth remain +good in spite of receding gums, her mouth was tightly stretched +semicircular-wise around them, and the lips had become a long, very +long, expressionless line, shaded into prominence, as in a drawing, by +a multitude of lines up and down, from chin and nose;--a Simian jaw, +remindful of the Descent of Man. All the accumulated hand-to-mouth +wisdom of generations of peasantry seemed to lurk behind the old +woman's quick eyes; to be defying one. + +I was introduced to her--Mrs Pinn, Mrs Widger's mother. She was bound +to shake my proffered hand; she did it, half rising, with a comic +mixture of respect and defiance; then sat back in the courting chair as +if to intimate, 'I knows how to keep meself to meself, I du!' + +I went outdoors, leaving them to talk; helped Tony haul up the beach +his lumpy fourteen-foot sailing boat, the _Cock Robin_, and returned +with him to supper. + +"Hullo, Gran Pinn!" he roared. "Yu here! Didn' know I'd got a new mate +for hauling up, did 'ee? Have her got 'ee yer drop o' stout eet? Us +two'll take 'ee home if yu drinks tu much." + +"Oh yu...." screeched Mrs Pinn with facetious rage followed by a swift +collapse into company manners again. + +"Thees yer be my mother-in-law, sir." + +"Mr Whats-his-name knaws that, an' I knaws yu got he staying with +'ee--there!" + +"Well then, gie us some supper then." + +Mrs Pinn--'twas to be felt in the air--had been hearing all about me. +Beside her glass of stout and ale, she looked a little less prim and +defiant. But she was still on company manners. She sat delicately, on +the extreme edge of a chair, by the side of, not facing, her plate of +bread, cheese and pickles; approached them; mopped up, so to speak, a +mouthful and a gulp; then receded into mere nodding propinquity. Her +supper was a series of moppings-up. Me she kept much in her eye, and to +my remarks ejaculated "Aw, my dear soul!" or "Did yu ever?" I said with +feeble wit, in order to grease the conversation, that stout and bitter, +being called _mother-in-law_, was just the thing for Mrs Pinn. + +"Aw, my dear life!" she exclaimed, taking a mouthy sip. "What chake to +be sure!" + +It was Mrs Widger who, with a glint of amusement in her eyes, came +tactfully to my rescue. + +[Sidenote: _MY NIGHTCAP_] + +About ten o'clock, Mrs Widger took down two glasses and the sugar +basin, and set the conical broad-bottomed kettle further over the fire. +Mrs Pinn glanced at the top shelf of the dresser where my whiskey +bottle stands. Her bright eyes kept on returning to that spot. I should +have liked to ask Mrs Pinn to take a glass, but knew I could not afford +to let it be noised abroad that 'there's a young gen'leman to Tony +Widger's very free with his whiskey.' I dared not make a precedent I +should have to break; the breaking of which would give more +disappointment than its non-creation. Equally well, I knew that it was +no use going to bed without something to make me sleep.... I told Tony +I would go out and look at the weather. + +"Yu must 'scuse me 'companying of 'ee 'cause I got me butes off. My +veet _du_ ache!" + +On my return, the bright eyes were still travelling to and fro, from +bottle to glasses. I yawned, Tony yawned noisily, Mrs Widger +capaciously. Mrs Pinn was herself infected. "'Tis time I was home.... +Oh, Lor'!" she yawned. + +She went; and when I asked Tony to share my customary nightcap, it was +with ill-hidden glee that he replied as usual: "Had us better tu?" + +His native politeness prevented him from saying anything, however, and +Mrs Widger showed not a sign of having observed the little victory, so +meanly necessary, so galling in every stage to the victor. + +Tony declares that he will really and truly start mackerel hooking +to-morrow morning--"if 'tis vitty," and "if the drifters an't catched +nort," and "if 'tis wuth it," and "if he du." + + +9 + +A creaking and shaking in the timbers of the old house, very early this +morning, must have half awakened me; then there was a muffled rap on my +door. "Be 'ee goin' to git up?" + +"Yes.... 'Course.... What time is it?" + +The only answer was a _pad-pad-pad_ down the stairs. I looked out over +the bedclothes. The window, a grey patch barred with darker grey, was +like a dim chilly ghost gazing at me from the opposite wall. By the +saltiness of the damp air which blew across the room and by the grind +of the shingle outside, I could tell that the wind was off sea. The sea +itself was almost invisible--a swaying mistiness through which the +white-horses rose and peeped at one, as if to say, "Come and share our +frolic. Come and ride us." + +[Sidenote: _MACKEREL LINES_] + +Tony, sleepy and sheepish in the eyes, was pattering about the kitchen +in his stockings (odd ones), his pants and his light check shirt. The +fire was contrary. We scraped out ashes; poked in more wood and paper. +Soon a gush of comfortable steam made the lid of the kettle dance. The +big blue tin teapot was washed out, filled and set on the hob. The +cupboards and front room were searched for cake. Tony went upstairs +with a cup o' tay for the ol' doman and came down with a roll of +biscuits. (Mrs Widger takes the biscuits to bed with her as maiden +ladies take the plate basket, and for much the same reason.) + +Faint light was showing through the north window of the kitchen. "Coom +on!" said Tony. "Time we was to sea." He refilled the kettle, hunted +out an old pair of trousers, rammed himself into a faded guernsey and +picked up three mackerel lines[9] from the dresser. He took some salted +lasks from the brine-pot, blew out the lamp--and forth we went. After +collecting together mast, sails and oars from where they were lying, +strewn haphazard on the beach, we pushed and pulled the _Cock Robin_ +down to the water's edge, and filled up the ballast-bags with our +hands, like irritable, hasty children playing at shingle-pies. "A li'l +bit farther down. Look out! Jump in. Get hold the oars," commanded +Tony. With a cussword or two (the oars had a horrid disposition to jump +the thole-pins) we shoved and rowed off, shipping not more than a +couple of buckets of water over the stern. + + [9] The fishermen's line is very different from the tackle + makers' arrangements. It varies a little locally. At Seacombe, + the upper part consists of 2-3 fathoms of stoutish conger line, + to take the friction over the gunwale, and 5-6 fathoms of finer + line, to the end of which a conical 'sugarloaf' lead is attached + by a clove hitch, the short end being laid up around the standing + part for an inch or so and then finished off with the strong, + neat difficue (corruption of _difficult_?) knot. A swivel, or + better still simply an eyelet cut from an old boot, runs free, + just above the lead, between the clove hitch and difficue knot. + To the eyelet is attached the 'sid'--_i.e._, two or three fathoms + of fine snooding;--to the sid a length of gut on which half an + inch ofclay pipe-stem is threaded, and to the gut a rather large + hook. The bait is a 'lask,' or long three-cornered strip of skin, + cut from the tail of a mackerel. The older fishermen prefer a + round lead, cast in the egg-shell of a gull, because it runs + sweeter through the water, but with this form the fish's bite is + difficult to feel on account of the jerk having to be transmitted + through the heavy bulky piece of lead. + + The lines are trailed astern of the boat as it sails up and down, + where the mackerel are believed to be. When well on the feed they + will bite, even at the pipe clay and bare hook, faster than they + can be hauled inboard. River anglers and even some sea fishers + are disposed to deny the amount of skill, alertness and knowledge + which go to catching the greatest possible number of fish while + they are up. It is often said that the mackerel allows itself to + be caught as easily by a beginner as by an old hand. One or two + mackerel may: mackerel don't. In hooking, as opposed to fishing + fine with a rod, the sporting element is supplied by fish, not + _a_ fish; by numbers in a given time, not bend and break. The + tackle brought to the sea by the superior angler, who thinks he + knows more than those who have hooked mackerel for generations, + is a wonder, delight, and irritation to professional fishermen: + it is constructed in such robust ignorance of the habits, and + manner of biting, of mackerel, and it ignores so obstinately the + conditions of the sport. Likewise the fish ignore _it_. + +[Sidenote: _DAWN AT SEA_] + +Tony scrambled aboard over the starboard bow, his trousers and boots +dripping. "'Tis al'ays like that, putting off from thees yer damn'd ol' +baych. No won'er us gits the rhuematics." He hung the rudder, loosed +the mizzen. I stepped the mast, hoisted the jib and lug, and made fast +halyards and sheets. Our undignified bobbing, our impatient wallowing +on the water stopped short. The wind's life entered into the craft. She +bowed graciously to the waves. With a motion compounded of air and +water, wings and a heaving, as if she were airily suspended over the +sea, the _Cock Robin_ settled to her course. Spray skatted gleefully +over her bows and the wavelets made a gurgling music along the +clinker-built strakes of her. + +Tony put out the lines: tangled two of them, got in a tear, as he calls +it, snapped the sid, bit the rusty hook off, spat out a shred of old +bait, brought the boat's head too far into the wind, cursed the +flapping sail and cursed the tiller, grubbed in his pockets for a new +hook, and made tiny knots with clumsy great fingers and his teeth. +"An't never got no gear like I used tu," he complained, and then, +standing upright, with the tiller between his legs and a line in each +outstretched hand, he unbuttoned his face and broke into the merriest +of smiles. "What du 'ee think o' Tony then, getting in a tear fust +start out? Do 'ee think he's maazed--or obsolete? But we'll catch 'em +if they'm yer. Yu ought to go 'long wi' Uncle Jake. He'd tell 'ee +summut--and the fish tu if they wasn't biting proper!" + +By the time the lines were out, the dun sou'westerly clouds all around +had raised themselves like a vast down-hanging fringe, a tremendous +curtain, ragged with inconceivable delicacy at the foot, between which, +and the water-line, the peep o' day stared blankly. The whitish light, +which made the sea look deathly cold, was changed to a silvery sheen +where the hidden cliffs stood. From immaterial shadows, looming over +the surf-line, the cliffs themselves brightened to an insubstantial +fabric, an airy vision, ruddily flushed; till, finally, ever becoming +more earthy, they upreared themselves, high-ribbed and red, bush-crowned +and splashed with green--our familiar, friendly cliffs, for each and +every part of whom we have a name. The sun slid out from a parting of +clouds in the east, warming the dour waves into playfulness. + + 'Twas all a wonder and a wild delight. + +As I looked at Tony, while he glanced around with eyes that were at +once curiously alert and dreamy, I saw that, in spite of use and habit, +in spite of his taking no particular notice of what the sea and sky +were like, except so far as they affected the sailing of the boat,--the +dawn was creeping into him. Many such dawns have crept into him. They +are a part of himself. + +[Sidenote: _A TENDERHEART BY NATURE_] + +"Look to your lew'ard line!" he cried, "they'm up for it!" + +He hauled a mackerel aboard, and, catching hold of the shank of the +hook, flicked the fish into the bottom of the boat with one and the +same motion that flung the sid overboard again; and after it the lead. +Wedging the mackerel's head between his knees, he bent its body to a +curve, scraped off the scales near its tail, and cut a fresh lask from +the living fish. He is a tenderheart by nature, but now: "That'll hae +'em!" he crowed. + +The mackerel bit hotly at our new baits.[10] Before the lines were +properly out, in they had to come again. Flop-flop went the fish on the +bottom-boards as we jerked them carelessly off the hooks. Every moment +or two one of them would dance up and flip its tail wildly; beat on the +bottom-boards a tattoo which spattered us with scales; then sink back +among the glistening mass that was fast losing its beauty of colour, +its opalescent pinks and steely blues, even as it died and stiffened. + + [10] Undoubtedly, if the mackerel are only half on the feed, a + fresh lask is better than any other bait, better than an equally + brilliant salted lask. It is the shine of the bait at which the + fish bite, as at a spinner, but probably the fresh lask leaves + behind it in the water an odour or flavour of mackerel oil which + keeps the shoal together and makes them follow the boat. + +Suddenly the fish stopped biting, perhaps because the risen sun was +shining down into the water. The wind dropped without warning, as +southerly winds will do in the early morning, if they don't come on to +blow a good deal harder. The _Cock Robin_ wallowed again on the water. +"We'm done!" said Tony. "Let's get in out o'it in time for the early +market. There ain't no other boats out. Thees yer ought to fetch +'leven-pence the dizzen. We've made thees day gude in case nort else +don't turn up." + +While I rowed ashore, he struck sail, and threw the ballast overboard. +Most pleasantly does that shingle ballast plop-rattle into the water +when there is a catch of fish aboard. We ran in high upon a sea. +Willing hands hauled the _Cock Robin_ up the beach: we had fish to +give away for help. The mackerel made elevenpence a dozen to Jemima +Caley, the old squat fishwoman who wears a decayed sailor hat with a +sprig of heather in it. "Yu don' mean to say yu've a-catched all they +lovely fish!" she said with a rheumy twinkle, in the hope of getting +them for tenpence. + +"'Levenpence a dozen, Jemima!" + +"Aw well then, yu must let I pay 'ee when I sold 'em. An't got it now. +Could ha' gived 'ee tenpence down." + +With a mackerel stuck by the gills on the tip of each finger, I came in +house. The children were being got ready for school. When I returned +downstairs with some of the fishiness washed off, Mrs Widger was +distributing the school bank-cards and Monday morning pennies. (By the +time the children leave school, they will have saved thus, penny by +penny, enough to provide them with a new rig-out for service--or Sunday +wear.) There was a frizzling in the topsy-turvy little kitchen. + +[Sidenote: _A DARING RASCAL_] + +"Mam! Vish!" + +"Mam! I wants some vish. Mam 'Idger...." + +"Yu shall hae some fish another time." + +"No-o-o!" + +"Go on!" + +"Well, jam zide plaate then." + +Jimmy's finger was in the jampot. + +"Yu daring rascal!" shrieks Mam Widger. "Get 'long to school with 'ee! +Yu'll be late an' I shall hae the 'spector round. Get 'long--and see +what I'll hae for 'ee when yu comes back." + +"Coo'h! Bulls' eyes! Ay, mam? Good bye, Dad. Good bye, Mam. Bye, Mister +Ronals. Gimme a penny will 'ee?" + +"God damn the child--that ever I should say it--get 'long! _I'll_ hae a +bull's eye for 'ee. Now go on." + +A tramp of feet went out through the passage. + +Mrs Widger shovelled the crisp mackerel from the frying-pan into our +plates. Tony soused his with vinegar from an old whiskey bottle. We +lingered over our tea till he said: "Must go out an' clean they ther +boats--the popples what they damn visitors' children chucks in for to +amuse theirselves, not troubling to think us got to pick every one on +'em out be hand, an' looking daggers at 'ee when you trys to tell 'em +o'it so polite as yu can. Ay, me--our work be never done." + +"No more ain't mine!" snapped Mrs Widger, moving off to her washtub. + + +10 + +For the last two or three days there has been a large flat brown-paper +parcel standing against the wall on the far side of my bed. I have +wondered what it was. + +This evening, after we had all finished tea, while Tony was puffing +gingerly at a cigarette (he is nothing of a smoker) with his chair +tilted back and a stockinged foot in Mrs Widger's lap, Jimmy said, as +Jimmy usually says: "Gie us another caake, Mam 'Idger." He laid a very +grubby hand on the cakelets. + +"Yu li'l devil!" shouted his mother. "Take yer hands off or I'll gie +'ee such a one.... Yu'd eat an eat till yu busted, I believe; an yu'm +that cawdy [finical] over what yu has gie'd 'ee...." + +Tony took up the poker and made a feint at Jimmy, who jumped into the +corner laughing loudly. With an amazing contrast in tone, Mrs Widger +said quietly: "Wait a minute an' see what I got to show 'ee, if yu'm +gude." + +[Sidenote: _ROSIE'S PHOTOGRAPH_] + +She went upstairs with that peculiar tread of hers--as if the feet were +very tired but the rest of the body invincibly energetic,--and returned +with the flat parcel. She undid the string, the children watching with +greedy curiosity. She placed on the best-lighted chair an enlargement +of a baby's photograph, in a cheap frame, all complete. "There!" she +said. + +"What is ut?" asked Tony. "Why, 'tis li'l Rosie!" + +"Wer did 'ee get 'en?" he continued more softly. "Yu an't had 'en +give'd 'ee?" + +"Give'd me? No! Thic cheap-jack.... But 'tisn' bad, is it?" + +"What cheap-jack?" + +"Why, thic man to the market-house--wer I got the cruet." + +"O-oh! I didn' never see he.... What did 'ee pay 'en for thic then?" + +"Never yu mind. 'Twasn't none o' yours what I paid. What do 'ee think +o'it?" + +"'Tisn' bad--very nice," remarked Tony, bending before the picture, +examining it in all lights. "Iss; 'tisn' bad by no means. Come yer, +Jimmy an' Tommy. Do 'ee know who that ther is?" + +"Rosie!" whispered Jimmy. + +"What was took up to cementry," added Tommy in a brighter voice. + +"Iss, 'tis our li'l Rosie to the life (mustn' touch), jest like her +was." + +A moment's tension; then, "A surprise for 'ee, en' it?" Mrs Widger +enquired. + +"My ol' geyser!" + +The children's riot began again. "Our Rosie...." they were saying. Mam +'Idger, slipping out of Tony's grasp, carried the picture off to the +front room. She was sometime gone. + +Wordsworth's _We are Seven_ came into my mind: + + "But they are dead; those two are dead! + Their spirits are in heaven!" + 'Twas throwing words away; for still + The little maid would have her will, + And said, "Nay, we are seven!" + +I knew, of course, intellectually, that the poem records more than a +child's mere fancy; but never before have I felt its truth, have I been +caught up, so to speak, into the atmosphere of the wise, simple souls +who are able to rob death of the worst of its sting by refusing to let +the dead die altogether, even on earth. Rosie is dead and buried. I +perceive also--I perceived, while Tony and the children stood round +that picture--that Rosie is still here, in this house, hallowing it a +little. The one statement is as much a fact as the other; but how much +more delicately intangible, and perhaps how much truer, the second. + + +11 + +[Sidenote: _ROSIE'S DEATH_] + +While we waited for Tony to come in to supper, Mrs Widger told me about +Rosie's death. "It must be awful," she said, "to lose a child fo them +as an't got nor more. I know how I felt it when Rosie was took. Nothing +would please me for months after but to go up to the cementry, to her +little grave. 'Most every evening I walked up after tea--didn' feel as +if I could go to bed an' sleep wi'out. Tony had to fend for hisself if +he wanted his supper early. Ther wasn't no reason, but it did ease me, +like, to go up there, an' it heartened me a little for next day's work. +'Twas a sort o' habit, p'raps. What broke me of it was my bad illness. +[When the twins, 'what nobody didn' know nort about,' were born.] At +first, I used to think o' Rosie, when I were lyin' alone upstairs, most +'specially at night time if Tony wer out to sea an' it come'd on to +blow a bit. I used to think, if ort happened to Tony.... Our room to +the top o' the house, sways when it do blow. I don't trouble me head +about Tony when he's to sea ordinary times--expects 'en when I sees +'en--but then I wer weak, like, an' full o' fancies. An' after I got +about again I wer much too weak to go to cementry: I used to faint +every time I come'd downstairs. Howsbe-ever, I did come down again, an' +Tony used to go out and get me quinine wine and three-and-sixpenny port +an' all sorts o' messes, to put me on me legs wi'out fainting. 'Twas +thic illness as broke me o' going up to Rosie's grave." + +"You walk up now on Sunday evenings...." I hazarded, recollecting that +then the children run wild for a couple of hours and come in tired and +dirty to cry for their mam. + +"Yes...." said Mrs Widger. + +I saw that I had trespassed into one of the little solitary tracts of +her life. + +"One day," she continued, backing the conversation with an imperfectly +hidden effort, "when Dr Bayliss come to see me, Tony was asleep in the +next bed, snoring under the clothes after a night to sea. Dr Bayliss +didn' say nort, 'cept he said: 'Your husband's a fisherman, isn't he, +Mrs Widger?' But I saw his shoulders a-shaking as he went out the door, +an' that evening he sent me a bottle o' port wine out o' his own +cellar, an' it did me a power o' gude. Tony--he was that ashamed o' +hisself, though I told 'en 'twasn't nothing for a doctor to see +'en...." + +[Sidenote: _FRANKNESS AND SMUT_] + +At that moment Tony returned. He really was ashamed of the doctor +finding him in bed, whether as a breach of manners or of propriety was +not plain. Possibly the latter. He has an acute sense of decency, +though its rules and regulations are not the same as those of the +people he calls gentry. Our conversation here would hardly suit a +drawing-room. Tony, if he comes in wet, thinks nothing of stripping +down to his shirt. But, curiously enough, one of his chief complaints +about the people who hire boats, is their occasionally unclean +conversation. "The likes o' us 'ould never think of saying what they +du. Me, I didn' know nort about half the things they say till I wer +grow'd up an' learnt it from listening to the likes o' they. Yu'd +hear bad language wi' us an' plain speaking, but never what some o' +they talks about when they got no one to hear 'em 'cept us they hires, +an' they thinks us don't matter." Tony is right, I believe. Most of +the impropriety I used to hear at school, university, and in the +smoking room, though often little but a reaction against silly +conventions, a tilt against whited sepulchres,--was well-named _smut_. +It was furtive, a distortion of life's facts and inimical therefore to +life. Impropriety here, on the other hand, is a recognition of life's +facts, an expression of life, a playful ebullition. + +Tony, when he came in, enquired of Mam 'Idger what she had done with +the picture. "Did Rosie die in the summer?" I asked, remembering how +the children will run out to the milkman with a dirty can unless a +sharp eye is kept upon them, and how also the larder is fixed up over +the main drain. + +"Her died late in the autumn with convulsions from teething," Mrs +Widger replied. "An' her didn't ought to ha' died then but for Dr +Brown. When her was took ill, proper bad, I sent one of the maidens for +Dr Bayliss, but he was out to the country for they didn' know how long. +So off I sends the maid to Dr Brown, an' he sends back a message as he +cuden' attend Dr Bayliss's patients wi'out Dr Bayliss asked him. +Certainly 'twas late; but my blood jest boiled, an' I took Rosie into +Grannie's an' goes up myself. Rosie didn' belong to no doctor. Her'd +never had one. Howsbe-ever, Dr Brown says to me the same as he'd told +the maid, that he cuden' come. An' then he says, 'My good woman, I +_won't_ come!' Jest like that! My flare was up; I wer jest about to let +fly my mind at 'en--an' I remembered Rosie lying in convulsions to +Grannie's, an' flew out o' his house like a mad thing. Rosie wer all +but dead. Her was gone when Dr Bayliss come'd next morning." + +"Aye!" added Tony. "That wer it. Some doctors be kind, an' some don't +trouble nort about the likes o' us when they got visitors to run a'ter. +I don' say they treats the likes o' us worse'n other people; I don' +know: oftentimes they'm so kind as can be; but when they don't behave +like they ought to, other people has the means to make 'em sorry for +it, an' us an't. They knows that. Us can't do nort an' that's the way +o'it. Rosie didn' never ought to ha' died." + +"No-o-o!" said Mrs Widger. + +One can see the tigress in most women, in every mother, if one waits +long enough. I saw it in Mrs Widger then. If she ever has the whip-hand +of Dr Brown.... + + +12 + +This mackerel hooking, which is a two-man job though Tony could and +would do it by himself were I not here, has most fortunately raised me +out of the position of a mere lodger, a household excrescence, +tolerated only for the sake of certain shillings a week. It has +provided me with a niche of my own, which I occupy--at sea the mate on +a mackerel hooker, on shore a loafer 'ready to lend a hand,' and in the +house a sort of male Cinderella. It is far pleasanter, I find, to be a +small wheel in the machine than to remain seated on a mound of pounds, +shillings and pence--beflunkeyed, as if in a soulless hotel! + +[Sidenote: _THE EARLY CUP O' TAY_] + +Tony cannot fill his spare time by reading: it makes his long-sighted +eyes smart. On account of that, and of nights at sea, with rest taken +when and where possible, he has developed an amazing talent for +'putting it away'; that is, for sleeping. He can turn out perfectly +well at any hour, if need be, but at ordinary times he is most content +to follow somebody else's first. I on my part, sleeping indifferently +well, wake usually before dawn, and greatly dislike waiting for an +early cup o' tay. + +About half-past four I jump out of bed, creep downstairs and chop wood. +That warms me. Then with a barbaric glee, I scrape out the ashes, +sending clouds of dust over the guernseys and boots that have been set +near the fire to dry. No matter; being light and fire-dry, it will +brush off the one and shake out of the other. People who never light +fires at dawn can have no idea of the exhilaration to be obtained from +a well-laid, crackling, flaming fire. + +Tony appears at the door, half-dressed, yawning and stretching his arms +on high. "Yu an't been an' made tay, have 'ee?" he says with delighted +certainty. The cups are filled. He takes up Mam 'Idger's cup and +returns with the paper roll of 'Family Biscuits.' We forage for +tit-bits, feed standing, yawn again, and go out to 'see what to make +o'it.' + +Unless the sea is broken by the wind, there is about it just before +dawn a peculiar creeping clamminess. It seems but half awake, like +ourselves. It has no welcome for us. "Can't you wait," it seems to say, +"till I begin to sparkle?" + +Tony looks out over. "Had us better tu?" he asks with a shiver. + +"Why not?" + +"Shove her down then. There's macker out there!" + +By the time the sun is rising (it never rises twice the same) south of +the easternmost headland, Tony has worked himself into a tear over +self-tangling lines, and has been laughed out of it again. We are +perhaps a mile or two out, and if the mackerel are biting well, we are +hauling them in, swiftly, silently, grimly; banging them off the hook; +going _Tsch!_ if they fall back into the sea; cutting baits from fish +not dead. If, however, they are not on the feed, we sing blatant or +romantic or sentimental songs (it is all one out there), and laugh with +a hearty sea-loudness. And if the mackerel will not bite at all we +invent a score of reasons and blame a dozen people and things. But +there we are--ourselves, the sea, and the heavenly dawn--the sea +heaving up to us, and ourselves ever heaving higher, up and over the +lop. It exalts us with it. We hardly need to talk. A straight look in +the face, a smile.... We are in the more immediate presence of one +another. Did we lie to each other with our tongues, the greater part of +our communications would yet be truth. + +[Sidenote: _THE PRICE OF FISH_] + +We sail or row home, turn the mackerel out on the beach, count them +back into the box, wash the blood off them, and stoop low, turning them +over and over, whilst we haggle for our price. The other day, with the +exuberance of the sea still upon me, I slapped old Jemima Caley's rusty +shoulder and lo! she rose her price one penny. + +"Damme!" she said, "I'll gie 'ee ninepence a dozen if I has to go wi' +out me dinner for't! They _be_ fine fish." + +"_Sweet_ fish, Jemima!" + +"Lor' bless 'ee, yes!" + +But she hawked them at twopence-halfpenny or threepence a pair +according to the customer. And now, her wry sly smile, peeping from +underneath her battered hat-brim, meets me at every back-street corner. + +Soap and water, the buzz of the children, their mother's loud voice, +and mackerel for breakfast.... It is all quite prosaic and perfectly +commonplace, it is far from idyllic; yet it would need the touch of a +poet to bring out the wonder, the mystery, of it all: to light up the +door of the soul-house through which we pass to and fro, scarce +knowing. + +Tony comes in early to dinner after a morning's frighting. His object +is to get an hour or so for sleep before the visitors come out from +their later lunch. Mam 'Idger says we are lazy; that she 'don't gie way +to it, she don't!' (She did a couple of days ago.) When the +after-dinner tea is finished, Tony makes a start for 'up over!' Mrs +Widger enquires if I have some writing to do--and asks also if I would +like to be awakened before tea-time! + +Never does sleep at night come so graciously as that afternoon snooze, +while the sound of the sea and the busy noises of the square float +gently in at the windows; float higher and higher; float right away. +About half-past two, Tony goes down to take somebody out for a sail or +to paint his boats. I frequently do not hear him. + + +13 + +Is there not more than one signification to the words "And I, if I be +lifted up, will draw all men unto Me?" There are times when the mind is +lifted up by a master-emotion, arising one hardly knows how, nor +whither leading; a feeling that takes charge of one, as a big wave is +said to take charge of a boat when it destroys steerageway; an emotion +so powerful that it does but batten on all which might be expected to +clash with it. These are the periods when day and night are enveloped +in one large state of mind, and life ceases to be a collection of +discrete, semi-related moods. These are the dawns of the soul, the +spring seasons of the spirit. The world is created afresh. + +Everything, and nothing, is prosaic. 'Tis _all according_. But it is +startling indeed how suddenly sometimes the earth takes on a new +wonderfulness, and Saint Prosaic a new halo. What, to put it in the +plainest manner possible, am I doing here? Merely fishing and sailing +on the cheap (not so very cheaply); roughing it--pigging it, as one +would say--with people who are not my people and do not live as I have +been accustomed to do. Yet, as I know well _all_ the time, this change +from one prosaic life to another has brought about a revelation which, +like great music, sanctifies things, makes one thankful, and in a sense +very humble; incapable of fitting speech, incapable of silence. + + +14 + +[Sidenote: _UNDER TOWN_] + +Astonishment at, and zest in, these Under Town lives; the discovery of +so much beauty hitherto unsuspected and, indeed, not to be caught sight +of without exceptional opportunity, sets one watching and waiting in +order to find out the real difference of their minds from the minds of +us who have been through the educational mill; also to find out where +and how they have the advantage of us. For I can feel rather than see, +here, the presence of a wisdom that I know nothing about, not even by +hearsay, and that I suspect to be largely the traditional wisdom of the +folk, gained from contact with hard fact, slowly accumulated and handed +on through centuries--the wisdom from which education cuts us off, +which education teaches us to pooh-pooh. + +Such wisdom is difficult to grasp; very shy. My chance of observing it +lies precisely in this: that I am neither a sky-pilot, nor a district +visitor, nor a reformer, nor a philanthropist, nor any sort of +'worker,' useful or impertinent; but simply a sponge to absorb and, so +far as can be, an understander to sympathize. It is hard entirely to +share another people's life, to give oneself up to it, to be received +into it. They know intuitively (their intuitions are extraordinarily +acute) that one is thinking more than one gives voice to; putting two +and two together; which keeps alive a lingering involuntary distrust +and a certain amount, however little, of ill-grounded respectfulness. +(Respectfulness is less a tribute to real or fancied superiority, than +an armour to defend the poor man's private life.) Besides which, these +people are necessary to, or at least their intimacy is greatly desired +by, myself, whereas their own life is complete and rounded without me. +I am tangential merely. They owe me nothing; I owe them much. It is I +who am the client, they the patrons. + +[Sidenote: _CLASS DISTINCTIONS_] + +We are told often enough nowadays that capital fattens on labour, +naturally, instinctively, without much sense of wrong-doing, and has +so fattened since the days when Laban tried to overreach Jacob. What +we are not so often told is that the poor man not less instinctively +looks upon the gen'leman as legitimate sport. 'An 'orrible lie' +between two poor people is fair play from a poor man to a wealthier, +just as, for instance, the wealthy man considers himself at liberty to +make speeches full of hypocritical untruth when he is seeking the +suffrage of the free and independent electors or is trying to teach +the poor man how to make himself more profitable to his employer. It +is stupid, at present, to ignore the existence of class distinctions; +though they do not perhaps operate over so large a segment of life as +formerly, they still exist in ancient strength, notwithstanding the +fashionable cant--lip-service only to democratic ideals--about the +whole world kin. There is not one high wall, but two high walls +between the classes and the masses, so-called, and that erected in +self-defence by the exploited is the higher and more difficult to +climb. On the one side is a disciplined, fortified Gibraltar, held by +the gentry; then comes a singularly barren and unstable neutral zone; +and on the other side is the vast chaotic mass. In Under Town, I +notice, a gentleman is always _gen'leman_, a workman or tramp is +_man_, but the fringers, the inhabitants of the neutral zone, are +called _persons_. For example: "That _man_ what used to work for the +council is driving about the _gen'leman_ as stays with Mrs Smith--the +_person_ what used to keep the greengrocery shop to the top of High +Street afore her took the lodging house on East Cliff." It is, in +fact, strange how undemocratic the poor man is. (Not so strange when +one realises that far from having everything to gain and nothing to +lose by a levelling process, he has a deal to lose and his gains are +problematical.) I am not sure that he doesn't prefer to regard the +gen'leman as another species of animal. Jimmy and Tommy have a name of +their own for the little rock-cakes their mother cooks. They call them +_gentry-cakes_ because such morsels are fitted for the--as Jimmy and +Tommy imagine--smaller mouths of ladies and gentlemen. The other +afternoon Mabel told me that a boat she had found belonged not to a +boy but to a _gentry-boy_. Some time ago I begged Tony not to _sir_ +me; threatened to punch his head if he did. It discomforted me to be +belaboured with a title of respect which I could not reasonably claim +from him. Rather I should _sir_ him, for he is older and at least my +equal in character; he has begotten healthy children for his country +and he works hard 'to raise 'em vitty.' Against my book-knowledge he +can set a whole stock of information and experience more directly +derived from and bearing upon life. I don't consider myself unfit to +survive, but he is fitter, and up to the present has done more to +justify his survival--which after all is the ultimate test of a man's +position in the race. At all events, he did cease _sir-ing_ me except +on ceremonial occasions. At ordinary times the detested word is +unheard, but it is still: "Gude morning, sir!" "Gude night, sir!" And +sometimes: "Your health, sir!" At that the matter must rest, I +suppose, though the _sir_ is a symbol of class difference, and to do +away with the symbol is to weaken the difference. + +[Sidenote: _THE WORD "LIKE"_] + +But at the same time, I am lucky enough to possess certain advantages. +I have, for instance, managed to preserve the ability to speak dialect +in spite of all the efforts of my pastors and masters to make me talk +the stereotyped, comparatively inexpressive compromise which goes by +the name of King's English. Tony is hard of hearing, catches the +meaning of dialect far quicker than that of standard English, and I +notice that the damn'd spot _sir_ seldom blots our conversation when +it is carried on in dialect. Finally there is the great problem of +self-expression. There, at any rate, I am well to windward. + +The cause of the uneducated man's use of the word _like_ is +interesting. He makes a statement, uses an adjective, and--especially +if the statement relates to his own feelings or to something +unfamiliar--he tacks on the word _like_, spoken in a peculiarly +explanatory tone of voice. What does the word mean there? Is it merely +a habit, a 'gyte,' as Tony would say? And why the word _like_? + +When a poet wishes to utter thoughts that are too unformulated, that +lie too deep, for words-- + + Break, break, break, + On thy cold grey stones, O Sea! + And I would that my tongue could utter + The thoughts that arise in me-- + +he has recourse to simile and metaphor. Take, for example, the +transience of human life, a subject on which at times we most of us +have keen vague thoughts that, we imagine, would be so profound could +our tongues but utter them. + +Blake's Thel is a symbol of the transience of life. + + O life of this our Spring! why fades the lotus of the water? + Why fade these children of the Spring, born but to smile and fall? + +"Thel, the transient maiden, is.... What is Thel?" says Blake, in +effect. Thel cannot be described straightforwardly. "What then is Thel +_like_?" + + Ah! Thel is like a watery bow, and like a parting cloud, + Like a reflection in a glass, like shadows on the water, + Like dreams of infants, like a smile upon an infant's face, + Like the dove's voice, like transient day, like music in the air. + +[Sidenote: _DIALECT_] + +Shakespeare, in a corresponding difficulty, uses one convincing simile: + + Like as the waves make towards the pebbled shore + So do our minutes hasten to their end; + Each changing place with that which goes before, + In sequent toil all forwards do contend. + +Drummond of Hawthornden exclaims: + + This Life, which seems so fair, + Is like a bubble blown up in the air + By sporting children's breath.... + +Bacon speaks more boldly and concisely. He forsakes simile for +metaphor, leaving the word _like_ to be understood. + + The World's a bubble, and the Life of Man + Less than a span.... + +Were Tony to try and express himself by the same means, he would say: +"The world's a bubble, like, and the life of man less than a span, +like." + +_Like_, in fact, with the poor man as with the poet, connotes simile +and metaphor. The poor man's vocabulary, like the poet's, is quite +inadequate to express his thoughts. Both, in their several ways, are +driven to the use of unhackneyed words and simile and metaphor; both +use a language of great flexibility;[11] for which reason we find that +after the poet himself, the poor man speaks most poetically. Witness +the beautiful description: "All to once the nor'easter springed out +from the land, an' afore us could down-haul the mainsail, the sea wer +feather-white an' skatting in over the bows." New words are eagerly +seized; hence the malapropisms and solecisms so frequently made fun of, +without appreciation of their cause. _Obsolete_ has come hereto from +the Navy, through sons who are bluejackets. Now, when Tony wishes to +sum up in one word the two facts that he is older and also less +vigorous than formerly, he says: "Tony's getting obsolete, like." A +soulless word, borrowed from official papers, has acquired for us a +poetic wealth of meaning in which the pathos of the old ship, of +declining years, and of Tony's own ageing, are all present with one +knows not what other suggestions besides. And when _obsolete_ is fully +domesticated here, the _like_ will be struck off. + + [11] The flexibility and expressiveness of dialect lies largely + in its ability to change its verbal form and pronunciation from a + speech very broad indeed to something approaching standard + English. For example, "You'm a fool," is playful; "You'm a fule," + less so. "You're a fool," asserts the fact without blame; while + "Thee't a fule," or "Thee a't a fule!" would be spoken in temper, + and the second is the more emphatic. The real differences between + "I an't got nothing," "I an't got ort," and "I an't got + nort,"--"Oo't?" "Casn'?" "Will 'ee?" and "Will you?"--"You'm + not," "You ain't," "You bain't," and "Thee a'tn't,"--are hardly + to be appreciated by those who speak only standard English. + _Thee_ and _thou_ are used between intimates, as in French. + _Thee_ is usual from a mother to her children, but is + disrespectful from children to their mother. + +[Sidenote: _THOUGHTS AND MIND PICTURES_] + +In short, every time Tony uses _like_, he is admitting, and explaining, +that he has expressed himself as best he could, but inadequately +notwithstanding. He has felt something more delicately, thought upon +something more accurately, than he can possibly say. He is always +pathetically eager to make himself plain, to be understood. One knows +well that touching look in the eyes of a dog when, as we say, it all +but speaks. Often have I seen that same look, still more intense, in +Tony's eyes, when he has become mazed with efforts to express himself, +and I have wished that as with the dog, a pat, a small caress, could +change the look into a joyfulness. But it is just because I am fond of +him that I am able to feel with him and to a certain extent to divine +his half-uttered thoughts; to take them up and return them to him +clothed in more or less current English which, he knows, would convey +them to a stranger, and which shows him more clearly than before what +he really was thinking. That seems to be one of my chief functions +here--thought-publisher. Evidently grateful, he talks and talks, +usually while the remains of a meal lie scattered on the table. "Aye!" +he says, at the end of a debauch of _likes_. "I don' know what I du +know. Tony's a silly ol' fule!" + +He does not believe it; nor do I; for I am often struck with wonder at +the thoughts and mind-pictures which we so curiously arrive at +together. + + +15 + +The old feudal class-distinctions are fast breaking down. But are we +arriving any nearer the democratic ideal of _Liberté_, _Égalité_, +_Fraternité_? In place of the old distinctions, are we not setting up +new distinctions, still more powerful to divide? There is to-day a +greater social gulf fixed between the man who takes his morning tub and +him who does not, than between the man of wealth or family and him who +has neither. New-made and pink, the 'gentleman' arises daily from his +circle of splashes, a masculine Venus from a foam of soap-suds. (About +womenfolk we are neither so enquiring nor so particular.) For the cults +of religion and pedigree we have substituted the cult of soap and +water, and 'the prominent physician of Harley Street' is its high +priest. Are you a reputed atheist? Poor man! doubtless God will +enlighten you in His good time. Are you wicked? Well, well.... Have you +made a fortune by forsaking the official Christian morality in favour +of the commercial code? You can redeem all by endowing a hospital or +university. But can they say of you that somehow or other you don't +look quite clean? Then you are damn'd! + +The cottage where the heroine of the 'nice' book lives is always +spotlessly clean. A foreigner who adopts the bath-habit, is said to be +just like an Englishman. It is the highest praise he can earn, and will +go further in English society than the best introductions. + +[Sidenote: _CLEANLINESS_] + +Cleanliness is our greatest class-symbol. In living with people who +have been brought up to different ways of life, a consideration +of cleanliness is forced upon one; for nothing else rouses so +instantaneously and violently the latent snobbery that one would fain +be rid of. Religiously, politically, we are men and brothers all. Yet +still--there _are_ men we simply cannot treat as brothers. By what term +of contempt (in order to justify our unbrotherliness) can we call them? +Not _poor men_; for we have _Poor but honest_ too firmly fixed in our +minds, and we would all like a colonial rich rough diamond of an uncle +to appear suddenly in our family circle. Hardly _men of no family_; for +men of no family are received at court. Not _workmen_; for behold the +Carlylese and Smilesian dignity of labour! Not _the masses_; for the +masses are supposed to be our rulers. What then can we call these +people with whom we really cannot associate on equal terms? Why, +call them THE GREAT UNWASHED. O felicitous phrase! O salve of the +conscience! That is the unpardonable social sin. At the bottom of our +social ladder is a dirty shirt; at the top is fixed not laurels, but a +tub! The bathroom is the inmost, the strongest fortress of our English +snobbery. + +Cleanliness as a subject of discussion is, curiously enough, considered +rather more improper than disease. Yet it has to be faced, and that +resolutely, if we would approach, and approaching, understand, the +majority of our fellow-creatures. + +Chemically all dirt is clean. Just as the foods and drinks of a good +dinner, if mixed up together on a dish, would produce a filthy mess, so +conversely, if we could separate any form of dirt into the pure solid, +liquid and volatile chemical compounds of which it is composed, into +pretty crystals, liquids and gases, exhibited in the scientific manner +on spotless watch-glasses and in thrice-washed test-tubes,--we might +indeed say that some of these chemicals had an evil odour, but we could +not pronounce them unclean. Prepared in a laboratory, the sulphuretted +hydrogen gas which makes the addled egg our national political weapon, +is a quite cleanly preparation. Dirt is merely an unhappy mixture of +clean substances. The housewife is nearest a scientific view of the +matter when she distinguishes between 'clean dirt' and 'dirty dirt,' +and does not mind handling coal, for instance, because, being clean +dirt, it will not harm her. Cleanliness is a process by which we keep +noxious microbes and certain poisons outside our systems or in their +proper places within. (It has been shown that we cannot live without +microbes, and that there exist normally in some parts of the body +substances which are powerfully poisonous to other parts.) Rational +cleanliness makes for health, for survival. It is, ultimately, an +expression of the Will to Live. + +[Sidenote: _DIRT_] + +Far, however, from being rational, our notions on cleanliness are in +the highest degree superficial. We make a great fuss over a flea; +hardly mention it in polite company; but we tolerate the dirty housefly +on all our food. We eat high game which our cook's more natural taste +calls muck. We are only just beginning to realise the indescribable +filthiness of carious teeth, than which anything more unclean, a few +diseases excepted, can scarcely be found in slums. Even in this great +age of pseudo-scientific enlightenment, we do not have a carious tooth +extracted until it aches, though we have a front tooth cleaned and +stopped on the first appearance of decay. What the eye doth not see.... +Yet we presume to judge men by their deviation from our conventional +standards of cleanliness. + +My lady goes to the doctor for her headaches and _crises de nerfs_. +"Dyspepsia and autotoxæmia," says the doctor. "Try such-and-such a diet +for a month, then go to Aix-les-Bains." But how would my lady be +ashamed did he tell her plainly: "Madam, though I observe that you +bathe frequently, your cleanliness, like your beauty, is only +skin-deep. You are fair without and foul within. Your alimentary canal +is overloaded and your blood is so unclean that it has poisoned your +nervous system. Eat less, take more exercise and drink plenty--of +water. Try to be as clean as your gardener." It has been remarked that +the labourer who sweats at his work is, in reality, far cleaner than +the bathing sedentary man, for the labourer has a daily sweat-bath, +whereas the other only washes the outside of him: the cleanliness of +the latter is skin-deep, and of the former blood-deep. Once stated, the +fact is obvious. Moreover, the labourer has the additional advantage of +being self-cleansing, whereas the sedentary man, for his inferior kind +of cleanliness, requires a bath and all sorts of apparatus. No doubt, +in time we shall learn to value both kinds of cleanliness, each at its +worth. The Martians of fiction, when in a fair way to conquer the +earth, succumbed before earthly microbes to which they were +unaccustomed, against which they had not acquired immunity. If by +antiseptics they could have kept these microbes at bay, they would have +done well, but if, like mankind, they had possessed self-resistance +against them (that is, if they had been self-cleansing) it would have +been still better. There is no paradox in saying that, practically, it +is very difficult for a healthy person to be genuinely unclean; and +that ideally, in the surgeon's eyes, we are, all, rich man and tramp, +so unclean that there is little to choose between us, and every one of +us requires a comprehensive scrubbing in an antiseptic tub. + +[Sidenote: _DISADVANTAGES_] + +But just as the habit of aiding nature by eating predigested food is +bad, so too rigid a habit, too great a need of cleanliness is a +positive disadvantage in the struggle for existence. Harry Stidston +says fleas are loveable little creatures. I have had to learn to put up +with one or two sometimes. Tommy makes his mother undress him in the +middle of dinner to find one. In other words, Harry Stidston can do his +work and live under conditions which would put me to flight, and I have +a like advantage over Tommy. Again, Tony can do with an occasional bath +and can eat his food with fishy hands, while I am a worm and no man +without my daily bath, or at least a wash-over, and, except at sea, +turn against the best of food if I can smell fish on my fingers. The +advantage is Tony's. It is good to be clean, but it is better to be +able to be dirty. + +The upshot is half-a-dozen--maybe unpleasant--truths, without +recognition of which the latter-day citadel of snobbery cannot be +stormed, nor the poor man and his house appreciated at their worth; +namely:-- + + 1. _Ideally_: We are all so unclean that there is little to + choose between us. + + 2. _Scientifically_: Cleanliness, as practised, is + conventional and irrational. + + 3. Blood-cleanliness is better than skin-cleanliness. + + 4. To be self-cleansing is better than to be cleansed by outside + agents. + + 5. It is hard for a healthy, active person to be really unclean. + + 6. _Practically_: The need of cleanliness is a weakness. + +According to the orthodox standards, this house of Tony's is by no +means so clean as the rose-embowered cottage of romance. It was not +hygienically built. The children gain health by grubbing about outside, +then come in house and demonstrate their healthy appetite by grabbing. +I could wish at times that they were a little more conscious of their +noses. We cannot, try how we will, get wholly rid of fleas, because +fleas flourish in beaches, boats and nets. There are several things +here to turn one's gorge, until prejudices are put aside and the matter +regarded scientifically. For, as one may see, the effective cleanliness +of this household strikes a subtle balance between more contending +needs than can be fully traced out. If, for instance, Mrs Widger came +down earlier and scrupulously swept the house, her temper would suffer +later on in the day. If she did not sometimes 'let things rip,' and +take leisure, her health, and with it the whole delicate organisation +of the household, would go wrong. Of a morning, I observe she has +neck-shadows. Horrid! Perhaps, but being a wise woman, pressed always +for time, she postpones her proper wash until the dirty work is done. +Were we to kill off the wauling cats which make such a mess of the +garden, the neighbourhood would lose its best garbingers. Baked dinner +is never so tasty as when the tin, hot from the oven, is placed upon a +folded newspaper on the table. Tony and the children tear fish apart +with their fingers. It does not look nice, but that is the reason why +they never get bones in their throats, for, as a fish-eating +instrument, sensitive fingers are much superior to cutlery and plate, +and so on.... + +I used to think that I was pigging it here. Now I do not.[12] + + [12] On the moral aspect of cleanliness I have not touched. Miss + M. Loane, a Queen's Nurse, in her remarkable book _The Next + Street but One_, observes "Cleanliness has often seemed to me + strangely far from godliness. Where the virtue is highly + developed there is often not merely an actual but an absolute + shrinkage in all sweet neighbourly charities. If an invalid's + bedroom needs scrubbing and there is no money to pay for the + service, or if a chronic sufferer's kitchen is in want of a + 'thorough good do-out,' if two or three troublesome children have + to be housed and fed during the critical days after an operation + on father or mother, do I look for assistance from 'the cleanest + woman in the street?' Alas, no; whether she be wife, widow, or + spinster, I pass her by, careful not to tread on her pavement, + much less her doorstep, and seek the happy-go-lucky person whose + own premises would be better for more water and less grease, but + from whose presence neither husband nor child ever hastens away." + + +16 + +[Sidenote: _JIMMY COMES HOOKING_] + +The dawns are later now. We do not need to get up quite so early, and +usually, just as we are drinking our cup o' tay, we hear a pattering of +naked feet on the staircase. Jimmy, the Dustman still in his eyes, +appears at the door. He has an air of being about to do something +important. He picks out his stockings and old grey suit from the +corners where they were left to dry. He does not ask to have his boots +laced up nor complain of their stiffness. Then with his coat +exceedingly askew on his shoulders, he demands: "Tay! please." + +"What do _yu_ want? Git up over to bed again." + +"I be comin' hooking wiv yu." + +"Be 'ee? Yu'll hae to hurry up then." + +When the sea is not too loppy nor the wind too cold, Jimmy goes with +us. The soft-mouthed mackerel need hauling up clear of the gunwale with +a long-armed swing, beyond Jimmy's power to give, and therefore as a +rule he is not at first allowed to have a line; for fish represent +money and mackerel caught now will be eaten as bread and dripping in +the winter. Jimmy sits huddled up on the lee side for'ard. He becomes +paler, looks plaintively, and sighs a big sigh or two. + +"What's the matter, Jim-Jim? Do 'er feel leery?" + +If Jimmy volunteers a remark, nothing is the matter. But if he +merely answers "No-o-o!" he means _yes_, and in order to stave off +sea-sickness he must be given a line. + +[Sidenote: _EDUCATION EVILS_] + +Then is Jimmy 'proper all right.' Then does he brighten up. "How many +have us catched?" he asks. The sight of him fishing in the stern-sheets +re-assures me as to his future, about which I am sometimes fearful, +just as some men are depressed by a helpless baby because they foresee, +imaginatively, the poor little creature's life and all possible +troubles before it. When I watch Jimmy in house, rather naughty +perhaps, or when I hear Bessie, fresh from the twaddle that they put +into her head at school, saying, "If Dad'd earn more money, mother, us +could hae a shop an' he could buy me a pi-anno;" or when, as I am out +and about with the boats, a grubby small hand is suddenly slipped into +mine and a joyful chirping voice says, "What be yu 'bout?"--then, and +at a score of other times, I am fearful of what they may be led to do +with Jimmy; fearful lest they may put the little chap to an inland +trade where he is almost bound to become a lesser man than his father, +be removed from the enlarging influence of the sea, and have it given +him as the height of ambition to grow up a dram-drinking or +psalm-smiting, Sunday-top-hatted tradesmen. Then I desire savagely to +have the power of a God, not that I might direct his life--he can sail +his own boat better than I,--but that I might keep the ring clear for +him to fight in, and prevent foul play. What indeed would I not do to +remove some of the guilt of us educated men and women who force our +ideas on people without asking whether they need them, without caring +how maimed, stultified and potent for evil the ideas become in process +of transmission, without seeing that for the age-old wisdom of those +whom we call the uneducated we are substituting a jerry-built +knowledge--got from books--which we only half believe in ourselves? New +lamps for old! The pity of it! The farce! + +But when I watch Jimmy fishing, I grow confident that the sea has its +grip on him; that it will drag him to itself as it dragged his father +from the grocery store; that whatever happens, it will always be part +of his life to keep trivialities, meannesses and education from quite +closing in around him. + + +17 + +[Sidenote: "_THE FISHER FATHER AND CHILD_"] + + _The Fisher Father and Child_ + + As I pulled the boat across a loppy sea-- + The bumping and splashing boat, + With the sail flapping round my head, + And the pile of mackerel amidships ever growing larger and lovelier + in the light-- + And the sun rose behind the cliffs to eastward, and the sky became + lemon-yellow + (A graciously coloured veil twixt the earth and all mystery beyond), + And the wavelets sparkled and darted like ten thousand fishes at play + in the ambient dawn,-- + It seemed that the sky and the sea and the earth gathered themselves + together, + And became one vast kind eye, looking into the stern of the boat, + At the father and boy. + + Navy-blue guernsey, and trousers stained by the sea, scarce hiding + the ribbed muscles; + Tan-red face, the fresh blood showing through; + Blue eyes, all of a flash with fishing and the joy of hauling 'em in; + now on the luff of the sail (out of habit, there being hardly a + sail-full of air), now to wind'ard, and again smiling on the + child; + Big pendulous russet hands, white in the palms from salt water, and + splashed with scales-- + Hands that seem implements rather, appearing strangely no part of the + man, but something, like the child, that has grown away from + him and has taken a life of its own-- + Strong for a sixteen-foot sweep, delicate to handle the silken snood of + a line-- + A man that the winds and the spray have blown on, gnarled and bent to + the sea's own liking, + The Father! + + And the boy-- + Like delicate dawn to the sunset was the child to his father-- + A sturdy slight little figure, as straight as the mast, + A grey and more gently coloured figure, glancing round with the + father's self-same gestures softened, and with childish + trustful sea-blue eyes; + Pattering with naked feet on the stern-sheets, and hauling the fish + with a wary cat-like motion.... + O splendid and beautiful pair! + O man of the sea! O child growing up to the sea! + You have given yourselves to the waters, and the waters have given + of their spirit to you, + And I know when you speak that the sea is speaking through you, + And I know when I look at the sea, 'tis the likeness of your souls, + And I know that as I love you, I am loving also the sea-- + O splendid and beautiful portions of the sea! + + +18 + +[Sidenote: _MRS FINN'S PROFESSIONS_] + +Mrs Pinn has put aside her respectful defiance, has ceased addressing +me as _sir_, and turns out to be a most jolly old woman, possessed of +any amount of laughing _camaraderie_. She frankly explains the change +thus: "I used to think yu was reeligious. Yu du look a bit like a +passon [parson] sometimes. Do 'ee know 't?--No, not now; be blow'd if +yu du! Yu'm so wicked as the rest of 'em, _I_ believe, but yu ben't +like they ol' passons. I'll 'llow yu'm better'n they." My own +recollection, however, runs back to the evening when she brought her +damped-down washing round, and I turned the mangle for her. It is +hardish work. 'Tis a wonder how she, an old woman, can do it when, if +births are scarce, she is reduced to taking in washing for a week or +two. Tony calls her the Tough Old Stick. Excellent name! I can picture +her in her cottage up on land, bringing up her long family with much +shouting, much hard common sense, some swearing and a deal of useful +prejudice. Now, in her second youth--not second childhood--she is +mainly a lace-worker and midwife. One night, Tony and myself broke into +her cottage, locked the door behind us and helped ourselves to what +supper we could find--which was pickled beetroot and raw eggs. Grannie +Pinn climbed in upon us through the little window, and afterwards, to +gain breath, she sat down to her lace pillow. Her dexterity was +marvellous. She _threw_ the bobbins about. I could not follow them with +my eyes. She makes stock patterns only; refuses to be taught fresh +patterns at her time of life, and cannot read them up for herself +because she has never learned to read. The butterfly is her +masterpiece. Working from early morning till evening's gossip-time, she +can earn no less than nine pennies a day. What the lace-selling shop +makes out of her, the lace-selling shop does not state. + +As a midwife, no doubt, she earns more. She must be full of tonic +sayings. I am told that when her patients are dying, she takes away the +pillow 'so that they can die more proper like,' and also in order that +they may get the dying over quicker. What scenes the Tough Old Stick +have must been present at! Yet she is spryer by far than those who keep +clear of tragedy. When I ask her to tell me truly how many patients she +has killed off in her professional career, her eyes glitter and she +bursts out: "Aw, yu! What chake yu got, to be sure!" + +She has her share of professional pride, but nevertheless I should like +to know how many corpses she really has laid out for burial--and what +she thought the while. + +Usually she comes in just before supper-time: + +"Ain't yu gone yet? I know; yu got some mark or other to Seacombe. Come +on! which o' the young ladies is't? Out wi' it! Which on 'em is't?" +When I tell her that she is the best girl in Seacombe and that I won't +give her the chuck until she finds me a mark as youthful as herself and +a hundred times as rich, she says: + +"Then yu'm done! her won't hae nort still, 'cause I an't got nort, an' +a hundred times nort be nothing--he-he-he! I knaws thiccy." + +The jokes, 'tis true, are poor. But the Tough Old Stick's enjoyment +franks them all. You may fling a stinging fact in her face; tell her, +if you like, that she could find plenty of marks for herself because, +being old, she will have to die soon and then the poor fellow would be +free again. "I know't!" she says, and flings you back another stinging +fact. Admirable Old Stick! She never flinches at a fact, howsoever +grisly it be. + +Above all, she revels in a little mild blasphemy; hardly +blasphemy--imaginary details, say, about hell, in the manner of Mark +Twain. "Aw, my dear soul!" she exclaims. "How yu du go on! Aw, my dear +soul! Yu'm going to hell, sure 'nuff yu be!" + +[Sidenote: _AGNOSTICISM_] + +But her horror is only a pretence. She does not take such matters +seriously. Indeed, few things have surprised me so much as the +thoroughgoing agnosticism that prevails here. Uncle Jake is the +religious member of the Widger family. For the rest, religion is the +business of the clergy who are paid for it and of those who take it up +as a hobby, including the impertinent persons who thrust hell-fire +tracts upon the fisherfolk. "Us can't 'spect to know nort about it," +says Tony. "'Tain't no business o' ours. May be as they says; may be +not. It don't matter, that I sees. 'Twill be all the same in a hunderd +years' time when we'm a-grinning up at the daisy roots." + +Nevertheless, he is not atheistical, nor even wholly fatalistic. When +his first wife was lying dead, he saw her in a dream with one of her +dead babies in her arms, and he is convinced that that meant something +very spiritual, although what it meant he does not care to enquire. The +agnosticism refers not so much to immortality or the existence of a +God, as to the religions, the nature of the God, the divinity of +Christ, and so on. + +"Us don' know nort about that, n'eet does anybody else, I believe, an' +all their education on'y muddles 'em when they comes to weigh up thic +sort o' thing." + +[Sidenote: _SPARROWISM_] + +If the sparrows themselves had been acquainted with 'Are not two +sparrows sold for a farthing? and one of them shall not fall to the +ground without your Father,' their attitude towards religion might have +resembled Tony's--a mixture of trust and _insouciance_, neither of +them driven to any logical conclusion and both tempered by fatalism. +"When yu got to die, yu got tu," says Tony, and it makes little +difference to him whether the event has been decreed since the +beginning of time, or whether it is to be decreed at some future date +by a being so remote as God. The thing is, to accept the decree +courageously. + +The children go to Sunday School, of course; it is convenient to have +them out of the way while Sunday's dinner is being cooked and the +afternoon snooze being taken. Besides, though the Sunday School +teaching is a fearful hotch-potch of heaven, hell and self-interest, +the tea-fights concerts and picnics connected with it are well worth +going to. But the household religion remains a pure _sparrowism_, +and an excellent creed it is for those of sufficient faith and courage. + +Of how the Sunday School teaching is translated by the children into +terms of every day life, we had a fine example two or three weeks ago. +Jimmy came home full of an idea that 'if you don' ast God to stop it, +Satant 'll have 'ee,' and Mrs Widger asked him: "What's the difference +then between God an' Satant?" + +"Ther ain't nort." + +"Yes, there is. What does God du?" + +"God don't do nort unless yu asks Him." + +"An' what does Satant du?" + +"Oh--I know!--Satant gets into yer 'art, an' gives 'ee belly-ache an' +toothache." + +Not many days afterwards, Tommy was being sent to bed for getting his +feet wet. "Yu daring rascal! I'll knock yer head off if yu du it again. +Yu'll die, yu will! An' what'll yu du then?" + +"Go to heaven, o' course." + +"An' what do you think they'll say to 'ee there? Eh?" + +Tommy was puzzled. + +"You can ask 'em to send us better weather." I suggested. + +"Tell 'ee what I'll do," said Tommy with a prodigiously wise squint. +"I'll take up a buckle-strap to thiccy ol' God, if 'er don't send +better weather, an' then yu won't none on 'ee get sent to bed for wet +feet!" + + +19 + +At a corner near here, there is a very blank cottage wall, and in +the centre of it a little window. Behind the closed window, all +day and every day, sits an old woman at her lace pillow. Some +portraits--Rembrandt's especially--give one the impression that a +shutter has suddenly been drawn aside; that behind the shutter we are +allowed to watch for a moment or two a face so full of meaning as to +be almost more than human. The same impression is given me by the old +lace-maker in the window when I pass to and fro, and catch sight of +her face so still, her hands so active, her bobbins so swift and, +because of the intervening glass, so silent. How nervously the hands +speed with the bobbins, how very deliberately with the pins that make +the pattern! How hardly human it is! + +One evening, however, the window was open, children stood round in a +group, and I heard the small click of the bobbins through the still +air. The children were laughing, delighted with the old woman's +swiftness. She that had been a picture, was become a living being. + +No doubt, she is working at her lace pillow now. She has several mouths +to feed. I wonder does she earn as much as Grannie Pinn? + + +20 + +[Sidenote: _CONGERING_] + +This long time I have wished to go congering all night, but have been +unable to do so for want of a mate. It is more than one man's work to +haul a boat up the beach in daytime, let alone the middle of the night +or at early dawn. If the _Moondaisy_'s old crew was here.... + +Ah! those were days--when George and the Little Commodore and the Looby +and myself used to row out with a swinging stroke at sundown to +Elm-beech-tree[13] and Conger Pool. The choosing of the mark; the +careful heaving of the sling-stone; the blinn, skate, pollack, +spider-crabs, and conger eels, we used to catch; the fights with the +conger in the dark or by the light of matches or of an old lantern that +blew out when it was most wanted; the absurd way the crew turned up +their noses at my nice tomato sandwiches and gobbled down stringy +corned beef; their quiet slumber round the stern seats and my solitary +watch amidships over all the lines, and at the sea-fire trailing in the +flood-tide; their crustiness when I awoke them to shift our mark and +their jubilation when a whopper was to be gaffed; the utter +peacefulness of the night after they had gone to sleep again; our merry +row home and hearty beaching of the boat; the cup of hot tea.... It is +all clean gone. George is in the Navy and the Little Commodore is under +a glass box of waxen flowers up on land. Did I bring back a catch +alone, perhaps the old boat would be stove in. + + [13] A spot found by getting an elm-tree on the cliffs in a line + with a beech-tree up on land. + +Tony, however, has been saying that, on the rough ground a mile or so +out, good-sized conger can be caught by day. On Saturday, therefore, I +collected gear from the Widger linhays, borrowed a painter and anchor, +and, the wind being easterly, I luffed the _Moondaisy_ out a mile +and a half south-east. There I dropped anchor. + +Tony had given me two mackerel for bait, one fresh and the other +somewhat otherwise; that is to say it was merely fishmonger +fresh--quite good enough for eating but hardly good enough for conger +who, though they have a reputation for feeding on dead men, will only +touch the freshest of bait. With the fresh mackerel I caught one large +conger (it ripped in the sail a hole that took Mam Widger an hour to +mend) and two dog-fish. Nothing at all would bite at the stale +mackerel. The easterly sea was making a little and skatting in over the +bows. Besides which, the _Moondaisy_ began to drag her anchor. My +hand to jaw-and-tail fight with the conger had made me a little +unsteady; had made my muscles feel as if they might string up with +cramp; which is not good for stepping a heavyish mast and sailing a +boat. So I stepped the mast and set sail, to make sure, and ran +homewards with the wind almost abeam. + +We decided to save the conger for Sunday's dinner. + +Mrs Widger made a most savoury stew of it, and when Tony came in as +usual, asking, "Be dinner ready, Missis?" she placed the stew on the +table. + +Tony's face fell. + +"Be this my dinner, Annie?" + +"Iss, for sure." + +"_Thees?_" + +[Sidenote: _HOT BAKE_] + +"What d'yu think then?" + +"_Thees!_ Wer's yer baked spuds?" + +"Do' ee gude to hae a change. Ther's some cold taties to the larder if +you likes to get 'em." + +"_Thees!_ Why, I wish thees yer conger hadn't never been catched!" + +"G'out!--Now then, you childern...." + +Tony picked over the fish, going _Tsch!_ for every bone his fingers +came across. + +"Thee't look so sulky as an ol' cow," said Mam Widger. + +"Well, what do 'ee think? Thees yer.... Did 'ee ever see the like +o'it?" + +Presently it occurred to him to peep inside the oven. His face +brightened. "I know'd her 'ouldn't du me out o' me Sunday dinner. Bring +it out, Missis. Sharp! Gie thiccy stuff to the cat. Baked spuds! What's +Sunday wi'out baake? 'Tain't no day at all! I couldn' ha' put away an +hour after thic." + +For the remainder of the meal, when Tony was not eating, he was +singing; and several times he chucked Mam Widger under the chin, and +she retorted: "G'out, yu cupboard-loving cat!" + + +21 + +This is the recipe for baked dinner: + +Turn out the children and turn on the oven. Into the middle of a large +baking tin place a saucer piled up with a mixture of herbs (mainly +parsley), one sliced onion and breadcrumbs, the whole made sticky with +a morsel of dripping. Round about the saucer put a layer of large +peeled potatoes, and on top of all, the joint. Set the baking tin on +the hob and into it pour just enough warm water to run over the rim of +the saucer. Soon after the water boils, transfer the whole to a fairly +quick oven. When the meat is brown outside, slow the oven down. Serve +piping hot from the oven, placing the tin on a folded newspaper and the +joint, if large, on a hot plate. + +To dish up hot bake in the ordinary way would be to let the nature out +of it. The smell is a wonderful blend, most hunger-provoking. True, the +joint, unless pork or veal, is apt to be a little tough, but the taties +are a delicious shiny brown, their soft insides soaked through and +through with gravy. Bake is a meal in itself. Pudding thereafter is a +work of supererogation--almost an impertinence. + +Mrs Widger's cookery, though sometimes a little greasy for one who does +no great amount of manual labour and undergoes no excessive exposure, +is far from bad. + +[Sidenote: _FOOD_] + +Food reformers; patrons of cookery schools where they try, happily in +vain, to teach the pupils to prepare dishes no working man would +adventure on; physical degenerates who fear that unless the working man +imitates them, he will become as degenerate as they are, and quite +unfit to do the world's rough work--forget that whereas they have only +one staple food, if that, namely bread, the poor man has several staple +dishes which he likes so well that he is loth to touch any other. + +One day we did have at my suggestion a rather fanciful supper. Tony +tasted, ate, and cleared the dish. Then he asked: "An't 'ee got nort to +make a meal on, Missis? no cold meat nor spuds?" He believes in the +theory that good digestion waits on appetite rather than on digestible +or pre-digested foods; that the meal which makes a man's mouth water is +the best to eat; and that solid foods give solid strength. And if the +same dish can make his mouth water nearly every day in the week, how +much more fortunate is he than fickle gourmets! + +When I first came here, I used periodically to run after the +flesh-pots. I used to sneak off to tea at a confectioner's. Now I +seldom feed out of house--simply because I don't want to. We start the +day about sunrise with biscuits and a cup of tea which I make and take +up myself. (Mam Widger and Tony look so jolly in bed, her indoor +complexion and white nightgown beside his blue-check shirt and +magnificently tanned face, that I've dubbed them 'The Babes in the +Wood.') For breakfast, we have fried mackerel or herrings, when they +are in season; otherwise various mixtures of tough bacon and perhaps +eggs (children half an egg each) and bubble and squeak.[14] Sometimes +the children prefer kettle-broth,[15] but they never fail to clamour for +'jam zide plaate.' Bake, hot or cold, and occasionally (mainly for me, +I think) a plain pudding, or on highdays a pie, make up the dinner that +is partaken of by all. But before the pudding is eaten, Tony and myself +are already looking round to see that the kettle is on a hot part of +the fire, and when the children are gone off to school, Mam Widger +throws us out a cup o' tay each, with now and then a newly baked +gentry-cake. Tony, who would like meat or a fry of fish for tea, has +usually to content himself with bread and butter. The children go off +to bed with a biscuit or a small chunk of cheese, and we may eat the +same with pickles, or else fried or boiled fish if there is any in the +house.... Supper, in fact, is the meal of many inventions, including +all sorts of crabs, little lobsters, and such unsaleable fish as +dun-cow [dog-fish], conger, skate or weever, together with +dree-hap'orth, or a pint, of stout and bitter from the Alexandra. Just +before turning in, Tony and myself have a glass of hot grog. + + [14] Fried mixed vegetables. + + [15] Bread broth with butter, or dripping, and water instead of + milk. A dash of skim milk is sometimes added. + +[Sidenote: _DRINK_] + +From such a list of our fare, it would seem as if we over-ate ourselves +as consistently as the _en pension_ visitors at the hotels. (Mrs +Widger, who has done a good deal of waiting, frequently tells us how +manfully the visitors endeavour to eat their money's worth at the +_tables d'hôte_). Tony's appetite--his habit of pecking at the food +after a meal is over and the way he, and the children too if they have +the chance, mop up pickles and Worcester sauce--is a continual joy to +me. We do not drink much alcohol. On the other hand, the children are +curiously discouraged from drinking cold water. Skim milk, tea, stout, +ale, or even very dilute spirit is considered better for them--a +prejudice which dates probably from the days before a pure water +supply. Since, however, I who am known to possess a contemptible +digestion, have been seen to drink down several glasses of cold water +daily, and to take no hurt, the ban on it has been more or less +removed. + +The above-mentioned goodies are distributed, it is true, over a good +many days in the year, and I fancy that my being here drives up the +scale of living somewhat. At all events, we do not go short. Waste on +the one side, mainly arising from small eyes being bigger than small +stomachs, is more than counterbalanced by a wonderful ability to +swallow down gristle, rinds and hard bits without apparent harm. +Granfer, indeed, says that he 'wouldn't gie a penny a pound for tender +meat that don't give 'ee summut to bite at.' The children clamour +always for 'jam zide plaate.' Without that or the promise of it, they +often refuse to eat anything. They do not believe me when I tell them +that they have more food than ever I did at their age; that I had to +eat a piece of bread and a potato for each slice of meat; that jam and +butter together was not thought good for me except on birthdays and +Sundays. "G'out!" they say. "Ye lie!" Sometimes their mother is +irritated into calling them 'cawdy li'l devils.' It does seem almost a +pity that they have not had any of the discipline of starvation. The +Yarty children who go half the day, and only too often whole days, on +empty stomachs, are certainly as happy as ours: they never cry because +dinner is not so good as they expect, and if we give them half a pie +their earth is straightway heavenly. Tony thinks now and then how hard +it will go with his children if the money runs short, as it has done +and may easily do again. "I mind the time," he says, "when I used to +come in hungry and kneel down beside me mother wi' me head across her +lap, crying! Her crying too; mother 'cause her hadn't got nort to eat +in house, and me 'cause her didn't get nort, and 'cause her cuden't get +nort, not even half an ounce o' tay, not havin' no money in house to +get it with. An' then I used to go out an' try an' earn something, +twopence maybe, just to stay us on." + +And that it is which has helped to make Tony the man he is. + + +22 + +[Sidenote: _A SUDDEN STORM_] + +Seldom does one catch the exact moment of an abrupt change in nature. +Yesterday, however, I watched a wonderful thing--the oncoming of a +sudden storm. + +Uncle Jake had been holding forth on the beach. "Us ain't had no +equinoctial gales thees year, not proper like us used to. This season's +going to break up sudden and wi' thunder, an' when it du, look out! I'd +rather be here now than out in the offing, for all the sea's so calm. +Ah!" pointing to a dinghy that was shoving off the beach, "they bwoys +'ould laugh in me faace if I was to go an' say, 'Don' go. 'Tisn't fit.' +But _I_ knows." + +I left him gazing seaward over the stern of his drifter, and walked up +to the Western Cliffs. The air, scarcely a breath from the north-east, +was oppressive in the extreme; very warm, too, for autumn. The sea was +almost unruffled; the sky to westward magnificently heaped up with what +Uncle Jake calls wool-packs. A fog crept over all the southern horizon, +dimming with its misty approach the eastern headlands and making the +sea like a dulled mirror. I felt, rather than heard, distant thunder. + +The fog lifted. It hung low in the sky, a sulky blue cloud. Beneath it, +the sea, still unruffled, was of a dense blue that, so it seemed, would +have been black altogether but for its transparency and the refracted +light within it. + +Going on, I walked for some distance beneath a semi-arch of the +wind-bowed lichenous thorns that grow upon the cliff-edge. + +Without any warning--maybe there was a little hum in the air--a +leafless bough, like a withered arm with its sinews ragged out, bent +over across my path. The sea gulls screamed and screeched; they flocked +out from the cliff-ledges, and with still wings they towered up into +the sky. Every twig and leaf began to play a diabolic symphony. Where +the hedge ended I was blown back upon my heels.--It was more than half +a gale of wind from the south-east. + +The horizon was become clear; jagged like a saw. Divergent strings, +marvellously interlaced on the water, streamed in with the wind, +broadened into ribands fluttering over green-grey patches. The whole +sea trembled, as if life were being breathed into it. White spots, +curling wavelets, dotted it; then broke abroad as white-horses in full +mad landward career. The whistle in the grass rose louder and shriller; +the boughs bent further and let fly their autumn foliage horizontally +into the wind; the gulls screeched wildly and more wildly; the chafing +of the surf below took possession of the air.... + +[Sidenote: _UNCLE JAKE ON FOOLS_] + +I saw the dinghy put about and run for shore. + +When I got back, Uncle Jake was still watching. + +"Ah!" he said. "Ah! Ah! I don't like they centre-keel boats wi' bumes +[booms]. They'm all right for fine weather, but.... Ah! They'm goin' to +gybe if they ain't careful. There! Did 'ee see? Why don't they ease +their sheet off more? If the wind catches thic sail the wrong side.... +Did 'ee see that? Thic bume was all but coming over. Gybe, gybe, yu +fules! Yu'm capsized if yu du, wi' thic heavy bume. Look'se! Have 'em +got their drop-keel up, I wonder? Not they! They thinks that's the same +as extra ballast. 'Twon't make no difference if a sea takes charge of +'em. Ah! did 'ee see the leach o' the sail flutter? Nearly over! Let +'em gybe, if they'm set on it. 'Twill upset they.--O-ho! They'm goin' +to haul down an' row for it. Best thing the likes o' they can du. They +calls me an ol' fule for joggin' along in my ol' craft while they has +drop-keels and bumes, all the latest. I've a-know'd thees yer sea for +fifty year an' more, an' I say, I tell thee, that two oars be better +than two reefs any day. Le'but the seas take charge o' one o' they +boats running afore the wind.... All up! They spins like a top, an' +gybes.... 'Tis all up! Howsbe-ever, they'm saafe now, if they don't +sheer broadside coming ashore. But _they_ won't learn their lesson; not +they. They maakes fun o' us as knows. + +"There! the wind be softening now. I've a-know'd they thunder-puffs +come down on 'ee like a hurricane. If they lasted long.... 'Tis blowin' +out in the Channel still. The horizon's black--see? 'Twill back, an' +blow from the nor'east to-night, in here, but 'twill be east to +south-east in the Channel, an' wi' thees flood tide runnin' up against +it, yu'll see the say make!" + + +23 + +It did blow during the night; it must have been rough out in the +Channel; then the wind dropped to a light breeze. But before ever Tony +and myself were out of doors we heard the heave and thump of the long +easterly swell. + +We hauled the _Cock Robin_ down to the water's edge, put in five bags +of ballast ("Doesn't look 's if it's blow'd itself out," said Tony) and +a spare oar--and stood and looked. + +"Be it wuth it?" he questioned. + +"Not much wind now, is there?" + +"Can the two o'us shove off in thees yer swell? Can ee see any o' the +other boats shoving down?" + +"No...." + +"There won't be much frighting to-day, for sure. Must make the day gude +if us can. Yer's a calm. Jump in quick. Shove! Shove, casn'! Row. Lemme +take an oar. Keep her head on. _Pull_--thic west'ard oar!" + +[Sidenote: _PLUCK--_] + +We were fairly afloat outside the surf-line, both of us very red in the +face. We upsailed--and away. After a few minutes' worry, deciding +whether the mainsail and mizzen without the foresail would be enough, +on a sea so much bigger than the wind, and looking for the _Cock +Robin's_ chronic leak, the bouncing, tumbling and splashing, the +heave up and the mighty rushes down, put us both in high spirits. We +decided to hoist the foresail after all. "Let her bury her head if her +wants to!" + +Accordingly, I went for'ard to hook the foresail's tack to the bumkin +[short iron bowsprit]. The thimble was too small. As I sat on the bow +and leaned out over, my hand all but dipped into the waves. A stream of +water did once run up my sleeve. Looking round and seeing Tony smile, I +yelled back aft: "What be smiling 'bout, Tony?" He replied: "I was +a-gloryin' in yer pluck." + +Which was very pleasant to hear--for a moment. + +My position on the bow of the boat was absolutely safe, and I knew it. +There was no risk at all, except of a bruise or a wetting. My toe was +firmly hooked under the for'ard thwart, and short of my leg breaking, I +could not have lost my hold. Besides, even had I fallen overboard, I +could easily have swum round while Tony 'bouted the boat. Tony was +deceived. There was no pluck. + +His words set me thinking, and I had to recognise, rather bitterly, +that what I call pluck did not form a great part of my birthright. I +find myself too apprehensive by nature; imagine horrid possibilities +too keenly; and indeed would far rather hurt myself than think about +doing so. I suppose I have a certain amount of courage, for I am +usually successful in making myself do what I funk; but I like doing it +none the better for that. And up to the present, I have not failed +badly in tight corners. On the contrary, I find (like most nervy +people) that actual danger, once arrived, is curiously exhilarating; +that it makes one cooler and sharper, even happy. One has faced the +worst in imagination, and the reality is play beside it. + +[Sidenote: _AND COURAGE_] + +In the dictionary, _courage_ is defined as 'The quality which enables +men to meet danger without fear.' _Pluck_ is merely defined as courage. +There is, or ought to be, an essential difference between the meaning +of the two words. Courage is a premeditated matter, into which the +will enters, whilst pluck is an unpremeditated expression of the +personality, an innate quality which, so to speak, does not need to be +set in operation by the will. Courage rises to the occasion; pluck is +found ready for it. Would it not, therefore, be more correct to say +that _pluck_ is the quality which enables men to meet danger without +fear: and that _courage_ is the quality which enables men to meet +danger with fear overcome? The greatest courage might go farther than +the greatest pluck, but for occasions on which either can be used, +pluck, the more spontaneous, is also the superior. Most of us are +irregularly, erratically plucky; one man with horses, who funks the +sea; another man at sea who is afraid of horses. One man who fears live +fists may think nothing of watching by the dead. Another who stands up +pluckily in a fight, refuses to go near a corpse. One of the pluckiest +men I know 'don't like dogs.' Pluck runs in streaks, but courage, to +whatever degree a man possesses it, runs through him from top to +bottom. + +All the churches in the world may talk about sin and virtue, and make +most admirable and subtle distinctions. We know very well in our hearts +that pluck and courage are the great twin virtues, and that cowardice +is the fundamental sin. The perfectly plucky and courageous man would +never sin meanly; he would have no need to do so. He, and not the beefy +brute or the intellectual paragon, would be Superman. The Christ, it +often seems to me, keeps his hold on the world, and will keep it, not +because he was God-man or man-God, not because he was born normally or +abnormally, not because he redeemed mankind or didn't, not because he +provided a refuge for souls on their beam-ends, but because, of all the +great historic and legendary figures, he is the one who convinces us +that he was never afraid. In him, as we picture him, courage and pluck +were the same thing, and perfect. + +But the present point is, or points are: How many men whose pluck and +courage I have admired so much, have deceived me as I deceived Tony? +And what combination of pluck and courage is it which enables these +fishermen to follow their constantly dangerous occupation with equable +mind; which, indeed, enables so many working men to follow their +dangerous trades? For it is one thing to approach danger by way of +sport, and another to work for a livelihood _in_ danger. + +One's analytics fail. It is, however, stupid merely to say, "Ah, they +are inured to it. Familiarity has bred contempt." Seafaring men realise +the dangers of the sea a good deal better than anyone else. Familiarity +with the sea does not breed contempt; the older the seaman the more +careful he is. I have met old seamen, heroes in their day, whom one +would almost call nervous on the water. And in any case, what a state +of mind it is--to be _inured_ to danger! to be on familiar terms with +the possibility of death! to be able to flout, to play with, to live +on, that which all men fear! + + +24 + +[Sidenote: _LUSCOMBE_] + +I have been up the coast to have dinner and a chat with my old +coastguard friend, Ned Luscombe, the man who taught me knots and +splices during the night watches when I was a visitor here years ago. +To go to his house now is very pleasant. For a long time after their +first baby died on the day they entered a new house, before even the +beds were up, it seemed as if Mrs Luscombe, a gentle, delicate woman, +'with the deuce of a will of her own,' Luscombe says, was going to +decline and die too. The new baby, which was to have killed her, has +put new life into her instead. They are touchingly proud of it, and +very happy altogether. I do like to see married couples happy. + +Luscombe himself is rather an extraordinary man; short, vivacious and +solid; full of generous impulses, yet very well able to look after his +own interests. It was he who dared the neighbourhood, and caused his +wife to invite often to their house a crippled girl that had been raped +by a scoundrel and then given the cold-shoulder by everyone else. +Something of a sea-lawyer, he is one of the sharpest-brained--I don't +say deepest-thinking--men I have ever come across. Hardly educated at +all as a boy, he races through books (he read my Cary's _Dante_ in a +week), extracts the main gist of them, and is always learning some new +thing, from shorthand to cooking, though he has no need to do much but +behave himself for a pension. Almost harshly honest, he yet brings out +with pride a large edition of Pope that he 'nicked' from the +second-hand bookstall of a heathen Chinee at Singapore. That little +episode will not make a very big blot, I imagine, on the Book of +Judgment. If I remember aright, the British Navy was then occupied in +protecting land or concessions that the nation itself had 'nicked' from +the heathen. + +Luscombe's opinion on books, men and things, unless it has been +borrowed from a newspaper, is always well worth hearing. His light of +nature, by which he judges, is exceptionally powerful. + +While we were smoking in his front room--furnished with a curious +mixture of cheap English things and beautiful Eastern curios--a steward +from one of the great liners came in. He began talking about the +behaviour in a gale of a rich snobbish Jew and the behaviour of Jews +generally on shipboard, and was inclined to take up the high, superior, +patriotic attitude that Jews, not being Englishmen, were necessarily a +nuisance in a storm. "Well," said Luscombe, "all I know is, when a man +tells me he's never been afraid of anything anywhere, I tells him to +his face, 'You'm a damn'd liar!' One day, in a pub at Plymouth, there +was a man--a bluejacket too--boasting he'd never known what fear was, +and I up and asked him, 'Eh, chum? Did you say _Never_?' + +"'Never!' he says. 'Never in me life!' + +"'You'm a liar then,' says I. + +"'We'll see,' says he--goodish-sized chap. + +"'You'm a bloody liar,' says I, 'and what's more, you ain't truthful.' + +"So we squared up there and then, and the bung and his men hyked us out +into the street and we was having our scrap out when the police came +up. He ran! 'Eh, Mr Liar!' I yelled after him. 'Did you say you was +never afraid?' + +"If I hadn't wasted time doing that, I shouldn't have got caught +either. Very nearly landed me in chokey, that did. We was shipmates +afterwards, me and that man, and very good friends. He's a warrant +officer now." + +[Sidenote: _LOWER DECK TO QUARTER-DECK_] + +Thence the conversation passed naturally to promotion from the ranks. +"I don't believe in it, not as a general rule," said Luscombe. +"Officers ought to be officers, and men ought to be men, and a ship's +always more comfortable when both keep their places. Rankers as +officers are apt to be bullies: that we all know jolly well. And +besides that, the likes of us can't keep our kecker up the same as +gen'lemen, and therefore I says we ain't fit for the quarter-deck, not +yet awhile. Tisn't that the lower deck ain't so brave as the +quarter-deck, because it is; only it can't keep it up so long; it gets +discouraged like, when 'tis a long job, specially when 'tis one of +those waiting-an-doing-nothing jobs. We ain't bred up to it, and our +fathers wasn't, and there's no good to be got out of trying to pretend +'tisn't so." + +We argued on. Luscombe would not yield an inch of his position. I can't +say offhand how far history bears him out, but I fancy that he is right +to this extent: the lower deck has less flexibility of mind. It cannot +view a depressing situation from so many sides at once. It is not, for +instance, so quick to see the underlying humour of an emergency; not so +ready to appreciate the so-called irony of fate. It cannot so easily +turn round and laugh at itself and its predicament. So, though the +lower deck's courage may be fully as great as, or greater than, that +of the upper deck, it is applied more constantly, with less mental +diversion, and therefore it tires sooner. Hence, it _may_ not be +so effective. + +The argument undoubtedly has a true bearing on that sort of promotion +which, in the prevailing educational cant, is called giving every poor +boy (by free education, scholarships and other lures) his chance of +climbing to the top of the ladder--as if success in life were one great +tall ladder instead of many ladders of varying builds and heights. In +attempting to justify modern educational policy, its victims are egged +on too fast into a field of commercial, intellectual, or emotional +stress for which they lack the fundamental grit, or rather for which +the fundamental grit they do possess is not adapted, nor can be adapted +in a generation. Their spirit, fine and valuable for the old purpose +perhaps, is not suited to the new. Therefore, of good workmen _in +posse_ we make bad clerks and shopmen _in esse_; of good clerks +detestable little bureaucrats or mean-minded commercial men, and so on. +Possible wives and mothers we turn into female creatures. And Merrie +England swarms with makeshift folk and breakdowns. + +Happily nature, heredity, sometimes intervenes, and at adolescence the +sharp boy, the pride of the examination room, develops into quite a +nice commonplace young man, like the missionaries' nigger boy, and is +saved, if he be not already committed to an unsuitable career. +Otherwise, what mental deformity and slaughter! It was well said that +education--what is called education--was the cruellest thing ever +forced upon the poor. Mam Widger agrees. She knows her two boys are +above the average in brains, but she says: "I'd far rather for them to +fend for themselves an' make gude fishermen like their father or gude +sailors like their uncles, than for 'em to be forced on by somebody +else to what they ain't fitted for. 'Tis God helps them as helps +themselves, they du reckon, but I can't see as he helps them as is +pushed." + + +25 + +Uncle Jake allows us fine weather for the Regatta. "But when it du +break up, after this yer logie [dull, hazy, calm] spell, look out!" he +says. "Iss; look out!" + +[Sidenote: _WINKLING_] + +The day before yesterday, we were having a yarn together on the Front. +"Must go t'morrow an' pick Jemima Cayley some wrinkles [periwinkles]," +he said. "I got a lot o' work to do wi' my taties up to my plat +[allotment], but I promised Jemima her should hae 'em for Regatta, an' +her shall, if I lives to get 'em. Her says my wrinkles be twice so +heavy as anybody else's what her has--an' so they be, proper gert +gobbets! They t'other fellows don' know where to go for 'em, but I +du--master wrinkles, waiting there for Jake to pick 'em. On'y I ain't +goin' to tell they beer-barrels where 'em be. Not I!--Wude yu like to +come? Nobody goes where I goes." + +"Where's that?" + +"Ah! Down to Longo. Yu'll see, if yu comes." + +"Haven't yu got a mate for it then?" + +[Sidenote: _UNCLE JAKE_] + +"_Mate!_ I'd rather go be myself than wi' some o' they bladder-headed +friends o' brewers. _They_ don' like wrinklin' wi' Jake; makes 'em blow +too much when they has to carry a bushel o' wrinkles, like I've a-done +often, over the rocks an' up the cliff, two or dree miles home. They +Double-X Barrels can't du that. Lord! can't expect 'em to.--_We'll_ go +in the _Moondaisy_ t'morrow, an' then if we can't sail home, we can +row, an' if it comes on a fresh wind, we'll haul her up to Refuge Cove +an' go'n look how my orchards be getting on." + +It is good to hear Uncle Jake talk about the work that nobody else will +do. (The exposure alone would be too much for many of them.) His face +wrinkles up within its grey picture-frame beard, his keen yet wistful +eyes open wide, and he draws up that youthful body of his--clad in +faded blue jumper and torn trousers--on which the head of a venerable +old man seems so incongruously set. He is the owner of a big drifter +which hardly pays her expenses; he feels that taking out pleasure +parties is no work for a fisherman--'never wasn't used to be at the +beck an' call o' they sort o' people when I wer young';--and therefore +he picks up a living, laborious but very independent, between high and +low tide mark for many miles east and west of Seacombe. Nobody learns +exactly when or where he goes, nor what little valuables are in the old +sack that he carries. He seldom sleeps for more than two hours on end; +has breakfast at midnight, dinner in the early morning, and tea-supper +only if it happens to be handy; and he feeds mainly on bread, cheese, +sugar and much butter, with an occasional feast of half a dozen +mackerel at once, or a skate or a small conger. Singularly +straightforward in all his dealings, a little of the old West-country +wrecking spirit yet survives in him, and he enjoys nothing better than +smuggling jetsam past the coastguards. Social position saves no one +from hearing what Uncle Jake thinks. His tongue is loaded with scorn +and sarcasm, but his heart holds nothing but kindness. He will jeer and +taunt a man off the Front, and give him money round the corner or food +in house. His nicknames are terrible--they stick. Few would care to +turn and fight such an old man, and if they did he would almost +certainly knock them into the dust or throw them into the sea. He is +childless; and, since her illness several years ago, his wife, an +untidy woman with beautiful eyes, has been scatterbrained and more +trouble than use, a spender of his savings. He nursed her himself for +many months. He does most of the housework now. He may remark on his +wife, if he knows you very well, but about the childlessness he never +talks. + +At eight in the morning we made sail with the wind just north of east. +The little _Moondaisy_ was full of sacks, old boots and gear. Past +Refuge Cove we sailed, past Dog Tooth Ledge, and across the out-ground +of Landlock Bay, which holds the last long stretch of pebble beach for +some miles down. Uncle Jake pointed to the western end of it. "If ever +yu'm catched down here by a sou'wester, yu can al'ays run ashore, just +there--calm as a mill-pond no matter how 'tis blowing. Yu can beach +there when yu can't beach to Seacombe for the roughness o' the sea. +Aye, I've a-done it! But yu can't get out o' Landlock Bay, though I +mind when you could climb up the cliff jest to the east'ard o' thic +roozing [landslip]. Howsbe-ever, 'tis a heavy gale from the south-east +on a long spring tide as'll drive 'ee out o' thic cave there where the +beach urns up. Now yu knows that: 'tisn't all o'em does." + +Similar bits of lore or reminiscence did he give me about every few +yards of the coastline. Most merrily had the easterly wind and a +following sea brought us down. Now we drew near the rocks, where at +high tide the land drops sheer to the water. In the dry sunshine, such +a sparkle was on the waves, such a shimmer on the high red cliffs, that +it was hard to follow Uncle Jake when he said, as if he revered the +place, "_'Tis_ an ironbound show! _'Tis_ a shop! Poor devils, what gets +throwed up here! But I know where ther's some fine copper bolts waiting +for me. I'll hae 'em! I've had some on 'em, an' I'll hae the rest when +they rots out o' the timbers. Year '63 that wreck was--lovely vessel, +loaded wi' corn. I mind it well. _'Twas_ a night!" + +[Sidenote: _AN IRONBOUND SHOW_] + +We ran the _Moondaisy_ ashore at Brandey-Keg Cove--a little beach +running up into a deep gloomy cave where the smugglers used to store +their cargoes and haul them up over the cliff. "Us can walk down to +Lobster Ledge an' west from there to Tatie Rock. I knows where they +master gobbets be, if nobody an't had 'em--an' nobody an't. They don' +like this iron-bound shop. They leaves it to Jake. But they wuden't, if +they know'd what was here." + +I ate some of my breakfast while Uncle Jake was changing his boots and +shifting his outer clothing. He would accept only one of my small +cheese sandwiches. "I got some bread and butter here," he said, but I +'took partic'lar notice,' as Tony puts it, that he ate none of the +bread and butter. And he refused to take a second sip of my tea because +his sensitive nose detected that there had been whiskey in the bottle. + +As we walked along the rocks, he placed above high-tide mark what bits +of wreckage he could find, and kept a sharp look-out for any rabbits +which might have fallen over the cliff. The only two we found, however, +had been partially eaten by sea-gulls and rats. "Let 'em hae 'em an' +welcome," said Uncle Jake. "The winter's coming. I can't think how they +poor gulls lives when all the sea round about is a hustle o' froth. I +al'ays feeds 'em when I can. Don't yu think that _they_ gets hungry +tu?" + +At Lobster Ledge--a jumble of peaked rocks with pools between--he left +his sack conspicuously on the top of a high stone, and hopped--seemed +to hop--down to a pool. "They'm here!" he cried. I heard them +clatter-clatter into his old cake tin, and then a tin-full rattle into +his sack. On those rocks, where few can step at all without great care, +he raced about, bent down double, and jumped and glided as actively as +an acrobat--a veritable rock-man. "Come here!" he called. "Jest yu turn +over thic stone. Ther's some there. My senses, what gobbets they be! If +they ther fuddle-heads what goes nosing about Broken Rocks, on'y +know'd...." + +Underneath the stone, clinging to it and lying on the bed of the pool, +were so many large winkles that instead of picking them out, I found it +quicker to sweep up handfuls of loose stuff and then to pick out the +refuse from the winkles. When Uncle Jake came across an unusually good +pocket he would call me to it and hop on somewhere else. There was an +element of sport in catching the dull-looking gobbets so many together. +I soon got to know the likely stones--heavy ones that wanted coaxing +over,--and discovered also that the winkles hide themselves in a green, +rather gelatinous weed, fuzzy like kale tops, from which they can be +combed with the fingers. They love, too, a shadowed pool which is +tainted a little, but not too much, by decaying vegetable matter. Uncle +Jake likes the stones turned back and then replaced 'as you finds 'em.' + +[Sidenote: _WHAT GOBBETS THEY BE!_] + +I emptied my baler, holding perhaps a quart, into the ballast-bag. How +one's back ached! How old and rheumaticy had one's knees suddenly +become! Uncle Jake feels nothing of that, for all his sixty-five years. +He still skipped from pool to pool. He flung me a lobster. "There! put +that in your bag for tay. Tide's dead low. The wind's dying away: sun's +burnt it up. Shuden' wonder if it don't come in sou'west, an' if it du +we'll hae a fair wind home along.--Well, how du 'ee like it? Eh?" + +"All right." + +"Ah! yu ought to be down here in the winter, like I been, when you got +to put your hands wet into your pockets to get 'em warm enough to feel +the gobbets--aye, to hold 'em! Then carry 'em five mile home on your +back to make 'ee warm again." + +So we went on: grab, grab, grab! clatter-clatter! rattle! We talked +less and worked harder, because we were tired. The tide crept up. The +wind veered to south-east and strengthened. "'Tis time to be off out of +thees yer," said Uncle Jake. "The lop'll rise when the flid tide makes. +Yu may know everything there is to know about fishing, but," he added +grimly, "if yu don' know when to be off, 'twill all o'it be no gude to +'ee some day. Blast thees wind! We'll hae to row home now, or ratch out +a couple o' miles to fetch in." + +We shouldered our sacks for the half-mile walk to the _Moondaisy_. +Walk.... Scramble! Uncle Jake seemed to glide from rock to rock, but +with two or three stone weight awkwardly perched on my shoulder, the +wet running down my neck and an arm going numb, I slithered down the +weed-covered slopes in a very breakneck fashion. I rather felt for the +bladderheads who refuse to go wrinkling far from home. + +[Sidenote: _CAUGHT BY THE TIDE_] + +Afloat again, we used the winkles for ballast in place of shingle. The +lop _had_ made, and was against us. We rowed up Landlock Bay to the +western side of Dog Tooth Ledge. Uncle Jake made an exclamation and +stood up. "What's that? Whoever's that? There! down there to Lobster +Ledge! A gen'leman an' lady, looks so. How did us come to miss they? +Look! They'm sittin' down, the fules!--Hi, yu! Hi! Hi!--They'm catched. +When yu see the water washing over the Dog's Tooth, yu can't get round +the ledge wi'out swimming.--Hi, yu! Hi!--They'm in for a night o'it +sure, till the tide falls, if we don' take 'em round to Refuge Cove. +Ther's nowhere there where they be, to get upon land.--Hi! Hi! +Yu!--They'm mazed. An' her an't got no stockings on nuther.--Hi! hi! +Hurry up!--Can't bide here all day. The flid and the sea's making +fast." + +They came on at a leisurely pace. The Dog's Tooth was continuously +awash. Spray broke on it. "D'yu know," said Uncle Jake when they were +near enough, "that yu'm catched by the tide? Yu'm in for a night o'it +on this yer beach, wi'out yu swims round the ledge or lets we row yu to +the lane in Refuge Cove. Yu can't get up on land herefrom." + +"Oh...." said the man. "We'd better come on board your boat then." + +It took Uncle Jake nearly half-an-hour to row the three-quarters of a +mile across the tide-rip on the ledge and into Refuge Cove. I carefully +refrained from doing anything to lead them to suppose that they were +aboard other than a fishing boat. It was Uncle Jake's expedition: his +the prospective reward. When I helped the man ashore, he put some +coppers into my hand. "There's threepence for the old man's tobacco," +he said with an air of great benevolence. I was too surprised to speak: +I pushed off and then burst into a laugh. + +"What did 'er give 'ee?" + +"Threepence. _Threepence!_ For your tobacco!" + +"Thank yu. I don't use tobacco. Yu'd better keep thic donation. They'd +ha' catched their death o' cold there all night, an' there ain't no +other boats down here along, nor won't be. That's what they reckons +their bloody lives be worth, an' that's what the lives of the likes o' +they _be_ worth, tu! Dreepence! My senses...." + +We roared with laughter. It put heart into us for our stiff row home +against wind, wave and tide. When I went for'ard to place the cut-rope +ready, Uncle Jake had to call me aft again: spite of his strength the +boat was being beaten to leeward. + +It was nearly four o'clock when we had hauled up and were carrying the +winkles on our backs down one of the untidy little roadways into Under +Town. No dinner or high-tea was waiting for Uncle Jake. The house was +unswept. How draggled the little bits of fern in the old china pots +looked! The fire was out; the hearth piled up with ashes; and on the +table stood a basin of potatoes in water, most of them unpeeled. + +Uncle Jake came to a standstill, acutely alive in the midst of a +domestic deadness. He raised himself upright beneath his load of +winkles. "That's what I got to put up wi'," he said. "An't had a bite +since breakfast at four by the clock this morning, 'cept thic sandwich +o' yours. Tis a wonder how I du put up wi' it. I don' know for sure." + +[Sidenote: _MEASURING UP_] + +"Thees is what I got to put up wi'!" he repeated when Mrs Jake came in +from a neighbour's. + +"I forgot," she said with a gay high-pitched little laugh which had in +it a tang of acquiescent despair--the echo of a mind that has ceased +fighting anything, even itself. + +"Forgot! Yu forgets!" Then in a softer tone: "Gie us the quart cup." + +He emptied my winkles out upon the stone floor, knelt down, and +measured them back into the ballast-bag: "one--two--three--four, that's +one--five--six--seven--eight, that's two pecks--nine--ten--half a peck +over; good for you, skipper!" He had four pecks himself, together with +several small lobsters which he threw out to me. + +"But you'll eat those...." + +"No, I shan't. Don't want 'em. Take 'em in home for yer tay." + +Then he hunted out of an inside breast-pocket a screw of newspaper, and +from it took a half-crown piece: + +"That's your share." + +"But...." + +"Go on! If you hadn' a-come I should ha' been the poorer by more'n +that, an' that's what one o' they beery bladderheads would ha' had if +they'd a-come--on'y I won't hae 'em 'long wi' me. Better yu to hae it +than one o' they, to gie to the brewer. I wishes 'ee to take it. Yu've +earned it, an' thank yu for your help. _I_ done all right out +o'it." + + +26 + +The Regatta has gone off well. The day was fine, the wind nor'west and +not too squally. There was a brave show of bunting; very many people +and several bands came down to the short Front; and there were races on +the water, in the water, and, in the evening, on land. The sea +sparkled. The place was all of a flutter. Uncle Jake, irritated by the +invasion of his beach, became most scornful over the abundance of high +starched collars, and the kid gloves of the shop-assistants. Some of +the young Seacombe braves collected round to tease him and, if +possible, to work him into one of his famous passions. But they dared +not so much as nudge him; he is too earnest, too vigorous. He lashed +them off with his tongue. And when a dinghy capsized through trying to +sail off the wind in a squall, it was the old man who was quickest at +the water's edge with a punt, and first on the spot, although a +four-oared boat raced out to the rescue. + +[Sidenote: _REGATTA_] + +Some of the Widgers won races, I believe. One takes no great note of +prizes: they are too small. The Regatta is not primarily an affair of +the fisherfolk; to take any great part in it would be to neglect their +own work; and when they do race, they have a neat method of defeating +the patronage of the townsfolk who provide prize-money in order that +they and the visitors may enjoy the spectacle of fishermen (in fisher +phrase) pulling their insides out for nort. The prize-money is pooled +and divided among all the competitors. In consequence, the races are +rowed and sailed with great dignity, and many of the visitors excite +themselves halfway to delirium over the extreme--the make-believe +closeness of the finishes. It is not very sporting perhaps, but +indulgence in the sporting spirit is for those who can afford it. The +Seacombe fisherfolk can't. + +A confounding number of the Widger family and its connexions arrived by +boat, road and rail. Two or three grand teas were provided one after +the other. Mrs Widger--looking really very young, alert, and +pretty--packed the children off to the beach with gentry-cakes in their +hands. Well she did so, for every chair in the kitchen was occupied by +some relative, and the display of best clothes was most alarming. Worst +of all, one party had brought the family idiot--a simpering, lollopy +creature, stiff in the wrong places, who could not feed himself +properly. With a vigorous tapping of the forehead, he was pointed out +to me. "He's a little deeficient, you know, sir--something lacking." +The idiot, finding himself the centre of attraction, fairly crowed with +delight. "Ou-ah!" he went. "Ou-ah! ou-ah!" + +On the pretext that a boat wanted hauling up, I escaped, with a piece +of bread and jam in my hand, like the children. + +A man of slightly unsober dignity accosted me in the Gut, and asked if +Jim somebody-or-other was within. "Him and me don't speak, nor eet +meet," he explained. "I won't hae nort to do wi' he, nor enter the +house where he is, for all we be related.--Come an' have a drink 'long +wi' me, sir; now du; I asks 'ee.--'Tis safer, yu know, for us not to +meet." + +For the second time I lied, and escaped. + +[Sidenote: _THE VETERANS' RACE_] + +Uncle Jake ran up from the beach. "Yer!" he said, "there's a race to +Saltmeadow, a veteran's race, for men over fifty. Yu come wi' me, an' +I'll go in for it--an' beat the lot, I will. I knows I can." Off we +went, Uncle Jake in a high excitement. At the centre of the big oblong +ring, two clean-built jumpers, men in the heyday of their strength, +were making a local record for the high jump. Uncle Jake shouted out +praise and sympathy to them. We found our way to where the veterans +were grouped together, encouraging each other to enter with much foul +language--which made them feel young again, no doubt. What a lot they +were! some aged to thinness, others become fat and piggish. Only Uncle +Jake appeared quite sound in wind and limb. He took off his boots and +stockings, walked into the ring with a fine imitation of the athlete's +swagger combined with a curious touch of shyness. "Go it Uncle Jake!" +they shouted. At the end of the first lap, he found himself so far +ahead that he threw his old round sailor's cap high into the air and +caught it, and he skipped along to the winning-post like a young lamb. +A great cheer was echoed from cliff to cliff. Uncle Jake has not spoken +his mind all his life for nothing. Seacombe does not unanimously like +him, but it has the sense to be rather proud of him. A veterans' race +is usually a sad spectacle, a grotesque _memento mori_: for Uncle +Jake 'twas a triumph. + +The next great sight of the evening was to watch the fishermen from +other villages put off to their boats. Most of them were 'half seas +over,' some nearly helpless. They were thrown aboard from the punts and +had their sails hoisted for them; or, if they did it themselves, it was +with most comic jerks. The gods, who undoubtedly have a tenderness for +drunkards--why not?--must have looked after them, for no news has come +of any accident. + +On returning in house, I met Tony with several of his men relatives. He +drew me aside. "Maybe I'll come home drunk to-night, but I promise 'ee +I won't disturb 'ee, an' if yu hears ort--well, yu'll know, won' 'ee?" + +For some reason not easily to be fathomed his kindly warning made me +feel ashamed of my own sobriety, ashamed that I dared not 'go on the +bust' with him. I firmly believe that it does a man good to 'go on the +bust' occasionally. It develops fellow-feeling. And besides, who has +the right to cast a stone at a man for snatching a little jollity when +he may, be it alcoholic or not? The truth is, that Tony, who has no +craving for drink, was prepared to plunge into the fastest current of +the life around him, and to take his chance, whilst I, for niggardly, +self-preservative, prudential reasons, was not. + +However, he came home quite sober. + + +27 + +[Sidenote: _THE SQUARE'S AWAKENING_] + +Up-country, next week, I shall greatly miss my window overlooking +Alexandra Square. I have lived (rebelliously) in suburban streets where +only clattering feet, tradesmen's carts and pitiful street singers +broke the monotony; in a Paris _chambre à garçon, au sixième_, where +the view was roofs and the noise of the city was attenuated to a +murmur; in country houses which looked out on sweeps of hill, down, +vale and sea, so changeable and lovely that they were dreamlike and as +a dream abide in the memory.... Here I have quick human life just below +my window, and--up the Gut--a view of the sea unbroken hence to the +horizon; a patch of water framed on three sides by straight walls and +on the fourth by the sky-line; a miniature ocean across which the +drifters sail to the western offing, and the little boats curvet to and +fro, and + + The stately ships go on + To their haven under the hill. + +There is always, here, a sound of the sea. When, at night, the Square +is still, it seems to advance, to come nearer, to be claiming one for +its own. + +But the Square, though still at night compared with daytime, is never +dead, never absolutely asleep. Fishermen returning from sea crunch on +the gravel. Lights in the windows (most of the people seem to burn +night lamps) give it a cosy appearance; the cats make one think that +fiends are pouring out of hell, through a hole in the roadway. Peep o' +day is the stillest time of all. The cats seat themselves on walls. +Sparrows chirp sleepily. Some rooks and a hoary-headed jackdaw come +down from the trees nearby, quarter the roadway for garbage, and fly +away croaking. Busy starlings follow. If the weather is hard and fish +offal scarce on the beach, the gulls will pay us a supercilious visit. +About six o'clock the children begin singing in bed, and soon +afterwards one hears the familiar conversation of families getting up. +"Edie! what for the Lord's sake be yu doing? Yu'll catch your death o' +cold. Johnnie, if yu don't make haste, I'll knock your head off, I +will!" A child or two may cry, but on the whole their merriment does +not seem greatly damped by their mothers' blood-curdling threats. I +hear also, but not very often, the shrill wailing monotone, the weep +dissolved in a shout, of a woman upbraiding her man for the previous +night. + +The children being dressed, but not washed (it is useless to wash the +average child very long before sending it off to school), they run out +to the beach to see what there is to be seen and to inspect the +ash-buckets for treasure. An ash-bucket is Eldorado to them. If nothing +is happening, are they at a loss for something to do? By no means. They +come in house, fetch out tin cans, and beat them in a procession round +the Square. + +The milkmen arrive, then several greengrocers. One would think that +Under Town lived on vegetables. The explanation is that the +greengrocers can come here, and, in tidying up their carts, can throw +their refuse upon the roadway, as they would not be allowed to do in +'higher class' streets. They swear genially at the housewives, and are +forgiven. + +So the work and gossip of the day goes on, with a slight quieting down +in the afternoon and an incredible amount of conversation after work, +in the evening. + +[Sidenote: _THE ALEXANDRA BACK-DOOR_] + +On Sundays, the great fact of best clothes lends a different and, to my +mind, a less pleasant--a harder--tone to the children's voices. But +their merriment cannot wholly be suppressed. Did those who dislike the +Salvation Army wish to illustrate its shortcomings, they could find a +biting satire ready-made by the children of Under Town. A fat small boy +comes round here, who has attentively studied the meetings; who can +copy the canting, up-and-down, gentle-explosive, the _Behold I am +saved, ye sinners_! tone to a nicety. He marches at the head of a +band of serious infants who bear rags, tied to sticks and parasols, as +banners. Every now and then he circles them to a standstill for an +harangue about blood, fire and Jesus. (It is the gory part which +delights him.) Then the procession re-forms, imitating brass +instruments as unbroken voices can, and singing a Salvation hymn. They +are earnest, the children; except Tommy Widger, whose irrepressible +spirit causes him to march in the rear with a mocking dance and an +infinitely grotesque squint. He is a pagan. He can turn the children's +serious imitation into roaring Aristophanic farce. He represents the +healthful laughing element of an age wherein rest from sorrow is too +much sought in fever. He infects us all with jollity. + + * * * * * + +The back-door of the Alexandra, which opens on the Gut, is my home +comedy. It is strangely fascinating; sad in a way, but very human; for +nothing on earth, except one or two of the very great things of life, +is so democratic as the back-door of a public house. Soon after +breakfast, or even before, the tradesmen sneak round for their +pick-me-ups. Then the housewives go for their jugs of ale and stout. +Some people never enter the Alexandra except by the back way. They +march down the Gut as if on important business; then, in the twinkling +of an eye, they are gone within. One worn little woman, who wears a +loose cape and a squalid sailor hat, walks up and down the Gut till it +is completely clear, then jumps into the door, and closes it very +quietly. When she comes out again it is as a rabbit comes from a +bolt-hole when a ferret is just behind. She runs five yards, stands +still, looks up and down, and tries very hard to walk home +unconcernedly. Sunday evenings, she hangs about outside until the bar +is opened. With the turn of the key, in she goes. Once a servant, +gossiping with her sailorman, kept the little woman outside for fully +ten minutes after the lock was shot back. Poor little woman, how great +her craving must be! + +Last week, I saw a policeman standing at the top of the Gut. Up he +looked; down he looked; Seacombe was orderly. Stepping as if to arrest +a malefactor, he marched down the Gut.... Where was the policeman? A +battered billycock and a rakish pipe looked round the corner, then +withdrew. The battered billycock knew where the policeman was. The +price of a glass, and billycock would have been there too. + +I was glad; for a few days before that the same policeman had arrested +a man by flinging him halfway across the street into the mud. It was +only a tramp. His witnesses, being poor people, dared not volunteer to +give evidence on his behalf, and would not have been believed had they +done so. He was sentenced to fourteen days: drunk and incapable, +abusive moreover. A drunkard cannot legally be arrested unless he is +also incapable or disorderly. It used to be a trick of the police to +shadow a harmless _Weary Willie_ until he happened to stumble, or even +to butt him down themselves. He then becomes drunk and incapable within +the meaning of the act, for, if the magistrate should doubt, is there +not dirt on his clothes? Obviously, circumstantially, he was incapable. +_He_, of course, must be a poor man. The trick is not safe with +tradesmen. These things are commonplaces amongst the poor. + +But billycock hat will not forget! + + +28 + +[Sidenote: _MACKEREL DRIFTING_] + +Yesterday morning early there was a great excitement along the beach. +Drift-boats could be seen in the offing. "I tell thee what 'tis," they +said, "the whiting be in an' us chaps an't been out to look for 'em. Us +don't du nort nowadays like us used tu." Later on, however, we heard +that the Plymouth drifters had been out after an autumn shoal of +mackerel, had caught some thousands and had made good prices. The +season for mackerel drifting here usually ends with July or August, but +good October mackerel, mixed with herring, have occasionally been +caught. Tony, John and myself decided to put to sea. When the other +boats saw our fleet of nets being hauled aboard (in a furious hurry), +they fitted out too. + +We shoved off just before dark. The wind was strongish WSW.--off land, +that is--so that inshore the sea was almost calm, except for the swell +running in from outside. What it was like outside the white horses and +the wind-streaks showed. Hardly had we gone half a mile before we heard +the queer clutching noise which meant that a strong puff of wind had +compelled Tony to let the sheet fly. The squall past, he hauled it in +again, put his legs across the stern and hung on. We sailed eight miles +from land in ten minutes under the hour--speed, that, for a +twenty-two-foot open boat with its mainsail reefed! Where we downhauled +to shoot the nets, the sea, unsheltered by cliffs and headlands, +was--as Tony beautifully put it--'rising all up in heaps.' Whilst I was +trying to keep the boat before the wind, for net-shooting, a great +comber plopped over the stern right upon my back. The sky was weird. +Great wind-drifts of rain-cloud constantly spread out from the west, +and wolves, higher up in the sky, were driving across the moon. We +heated tea, but did not try to sleep. Tony and John kept up a curious +dialogue. "What do 'ee think o' it, then?" + +"'Tisn't vitty. I said so all along." + +[Sidenote: _HAULING INBOARD_] + +"If a skat o' rain comes--and 'tis raining on land, seems so--the +wind'll back out to sou'west, an' us'll hae to rin for it. A perty +lop'll get up tu, an' we'm more'n a mile from land." + +"Us'll haul in be 'leven. No gude hanging on out here. If the wind +_du_ back...." + +I have never heard them talk so much about the weather. And all the +while, the sky drove into splendid cloud-forms, all windy, nearly all +rainy. We lost the Eddystone light, then lost the Seacombe light and +recovered the former, as a storm drifted along shore. From time to time +we thought the wind was backing a bit. + +Supper, for me, had to be crammed down on a rather queasy stomach. +"We'm all ways to once!" Tony remarked. The wind did definitely back a +point or two. "Only let it once die away," said Tony in the tone of _I +told you so_; "then yu'll see how it can spring from the sou'west when +'tis a-minded." + +One minute I wished myself home, safe in bed, and thought with +grotesque grief of some unfinished work. Next minute, I knew that I +would not have missed the night out there for any consideration. The +grey, slightly sheeny boil of the sea around us; the sweeping savagery +of the sky; the intimacy of the waters.... + +But we were all relieved when eleven o'clock came. The watchfulness was +a strain. + +When one is steering instead of hauling, the getting-in of nine +forty-fathom nets seems interminable. One net, two nets, three nets--a +third of nine,--four, five--more than half the fleet,--six--two-thirds +of nine,--seven, eight--nine all but one;--and so on, with an +occasional wave coming inboard, until the very last square buoy comes +bobbing towards the boat; hand over hand, buoy by buoy, net by net, +holding fast when the pull of the tide is too strong, and pausing +irritably to pick out the fish. We stepped the great mast, shifted all +the ballast to wind'ard. John came aft to steer, and seated himself on +the counter, a strangely powerful, statuesque figure in his wet +oilskins. "Have 'ee got the sheet in yer hand?" Tony called out from +the bows. + +John did not trouble to reply. + +"Have 'ee got the sheet in yer hand, John?" + +"No, I an't! What the hell do 'ee want the sheet for? Wind's abeam." + +"Might want it bad," said Tony. + +[Sidenote: _A REMBRANDTESQUE PICTURE_] + +We left it fast however; and with the same, an elemental passion took +possession of my mind; ousted all else. I had been anxious about the +sheet, had thought John foolhardy. Now I didn't care. I could have +cried out aloud for joy as the brave old craft rose to the seas with a +marvellous easy motion and the waves came skatting in over the bows. +Before long, I was on my knees with the baler; John was getting every +inch out of the wind, and Tony was standing abaft the nets with the +sheet dangling through his hand. By the light of the riding-lamp on the +mizzen mast (its glass patched with an old jam cover), they in their +angular wet oil-skins--the rain was pelting--and the rich wet brown of +the boat's varnish, made a wonderful Rembrandtesque picture. I hardly +know how long we were sailing home; it slipped my mind to take the +time. About two o'clock I was halfway down the beach with Tony cursing +above me and John doing the same below. Someone had 'messed up' our +capstan wire. While Tony was putting that right in the dark--and +pinching his fingers severely--the boat washed broadside on and began +to fill. We had only five dozen fish. They sold badly. + +In time, and with practice, I could, I believe, do most that these +fishermen do except one thing: I doubt I could stand the racket of my +own thoughts. Tony and John would go out to-night, to-morrow, every +night. But I have slept so dead (not from bodily tiredness) that, the +door being bolted against the children, they were unable to waken me +for dinner, and in the end Tony told them to 'let the poor beast bide.' +Of what nature was that passion, so exultant and so tiring? Are these +fishermen so used to it that they 'don't take much note o'it'? For they +feel it. I have seen it in their faces. One can always tell. The eyes +widen and brighten; hasty movements become so desperately cool. If what +was an episode in my life, is part and parcel of theirs, how much the +better for _them_! + + +29 + +To-day the sea passion, or whatever it is, came again. + +While I was asleep, the wind backed and freshened. Balks of wood from a +naval target kept washing in. Balks make winter firing when coal is +dear and money scarce. Boats had been bringing them in all the morning, +till the sea became too rough. Tony had none however. In the afternoon +he complained bitterly: + +"They all got some wude but me, an' us an't got enough in house for the +winter nuther." Just then we saw a large piece washing along on the +flood tide over the outside of Broken Rocks. "Get a rope--grass rope, +mind. Down with her. The _Cock Robin_! Quick. Jump aboard. Take oars. +Hurry up casn'? Get hold thic oar. Look out!" + +[Sidenote: _OUT AFTER FLOTSAM_] + +No time to wait for a smooth. Tony shoved the _Cock Robin_ into a surf +we should not otherwise have thought of facing. As it turned out, we +got off better than we usually do in only a moderate sea, though we +should have capsized to a certainty had the boat sheered. 'Twas, "Look +out! Damme, look out! Here's a swell coming! Get her head to it or we'm +over. Gude for us!" Some of the waves, rising and topping in the +shallow water over the rocks, seemed to make the _Cock Robin_ sit +upright on her stern, like a dog begging, and the higher the seas rose +the more we gloried in them. Sufficient for the moment was the wave +thereof. We swore at each other in a sort of chant. I had to repress an +impulse to jump overboard and swim to the balk, instead of trying to +work up to it with a boat that had, every other moment, to be turned +bows on to the sea. The slightest error of judgment on Tony's part, and +we should indeed have swum for it. I had such a curious feeling of +being _in_ the sea--as much a part of it as the waves themselves--that +the affair ceased to be a struggle. It became a glorious great big +game. Yet for work we were so cool that, though we towed our balk +ashore and shoved off after another, we hardly got wet above the knees. + +We were beside ourselves, and all ourselves. Where does that exultant +feeling, that devil-beyond-oneself, come from? From what depth of human +personality does it uprise, whirling, like those primitive +passions--sex, hunger, rage, fear--which may be boxed up awhile by the +will, but which, once unloosed, sweep the will aside and carry one off +like froth in a gale, until physical exhaustion sets in and allows the +will to re-assert itself? One understands the evolution of the +primitive self-preservative and race-preservative passions. How has +this latent daredevilry become so implanted in us that it rises from +the bottom depths of one's nature; and how has it become ordinarily so +hidden? + +Above all what is the effect of this passion on seafaring men? To say +that familiarity breeds contempt is--even if it be correct--to beg the +question. What is the effect of that familiarity? It might be said that +they are the subjects of a sub-acute, persistent form of the +daredevilry which uprose in me unexpectedly and acutely. But again, the +sub-acute lifelong form of it is likely to have the greater influence +on a man's self, on his morale and his character. Hence, I believe, the +width of these men, their largeness. It was good to hear Tony talk in +the most matter-of-fact manner (yet with a touch of reverence, as +towards an ever-possible contingency) of a Salcombe fisherman who was +drowned. "Her was drownded all through his own carelessness, and didn't +rise in the water for a month. ('Tis nine days down and nine days up, +wi' the crab bites out of 'ee, as a rule.) An' he wer carried up by the +tide an' collected, like, out o' the water just at the back o' his own +house. Nice quiet chap he was." That coolness of speech one saw +plainly, is the outcome not of contempt, still less of non-feeling, but +of familiarity, of a breadth of mind in looking at the catastrophe. I +have not noticed such breadth of mind elsewhere except among those who +live precariously and the few of very great religious faith. + +An hour after bringing in the balks, we were hauling the boats over the +wall, and at high tide the seas swept across the road. + + +30 + +[Sidenote: _A SING-SONG_] + +Many an evening we have had small sing-songs in the kitchen. To-night, +on account of my going and the need to give me a cheery send-off, we +had quite a concert. Tony was star. + +Supper being pushed back on the table and a piece of wreckage flung on +the fire, he made himself ready by taking off his soaked boots and +stockings, and plumping his feet on Mam Widger's lap; then brought +himself into the vocal mood with a long rigmarole that he used to +recite with the Mummers at Christmas time. Soon we were humming, +whistling and singing "Sweet Evelina," whose sole musical merit is that +her chorus goes with a swing. The fire crackled and burnt blue. The +fragrant steam of the grog rose to the ceiling and settled on the +window. We leaned right back in our chairs. + +"Missis," said Tony, "I feels like zingin' to-night." + +"Wait a minute while I shuts the door, else they kids'll be down for +more supper." + +"Us got it, an't us?" + +"Yes, but _they_'ve had enough." + +When Tony sings, he throws his head back and closes his eyes, so that, +but for the motions of his mouth, he looks asleep, even deathlike, and +is, in fact, withdrawn into himself. + +I think he sees his songs, as well as sings them. I often wonder what +pictures are flitting through his mind beneath (as I imagine) the place +where the thick grizzled hair thins to the red forehead. His voice is a +high tenor. I make accompaniment an octave below, whilst Mrs Widger--a +little nasal in tone and not infrequently adrift in tune--supports him +from above. + +We sang "The Poor Smuggler's Boy"-- + + Your pity I crave, + Won't you give me employ? + Or forlorn I must wander, + Said the poor smuggler's boy. + +Then the "Skipper and his Boy"-- + + Over the mounting waves so 'igh, + We'll sail together, my boy and I-I, + We'll sail together, my bo-oy and I! + +"Have 'ee wrote to George?" Tony asked. + +"'Tis your place to du that." + +"I an't got time...." + +"Thee asn't got time for nort!" + + The fisher's is a merry life! + Blow, winds, blow! + The fisher and his vitty wife! + Row, boys, row! + He drives no plough on stubborn land, + His fruits are ready to his hand. + No nipping frosts his orchards fear, + He has his autumn all the year, + Blow, winds, blow! + + The farmer has his rent to pay, + Blow, winds, blow! + And seeds to purchase every day, + Row, boys, row! + But he who farms the rolling deep, + He never sows, can always reap, + The ocean's fields are fair and free, + There ain't no rent days on the sea; + The fisher's is a merry life! + Blow, winds, blow! + Blow, damn ye, blow! + +"Aye!" said Tony with conviction, "thic's one side o'it." + +[Sidenote: "_ROLLING HOME_"] + +He tried a note or two at different pitches, then struck with energy +into the fine song, "Rolling Home." (Who that has steered for England +in a ship--and by ship I do not mean a bustling steam-packet or a +floating hotel, but a ship to whose crew England stands for fresh food, +women, wine, home.... Who that has so steered the course for England, +does not feel a catch at his vitals on hearing the melody, at once +plaintive and triumphant, of "Rolling Home?") + + Pipe all hands to man the capstan, see your cables run down clear; + Soon our ship will weigh her anchor, for old England's shores we steer; + If we heave round with a will boys, soon our anchor it will trip, + And across the briny ocean we will steer our gallant ship: + Rolling home, rolling home! + Rolling home across the sea! + Rolling home to Merrie England! + Rolling home, true love, to thee! + + Man the bars then with a will, boys, clap all hands that can clap on; + As we heave around the capstan, we will sing this well-known song; + It will bring back scenes and changes of this parting gift so rare; + We shall hear sweet songs of music softly whispering through the air. + Rolling home, rolling home! + Rolling home across the sea! + Rolling home to Merrie England! + Rolling home, true love, to thee! + + Up aloft amid the rigging, as we sail the waters blue, + Whilst we cross the briny ocean, we will always think of you; + We will leave you our best wishes as we leave this rocky shore; + We are bound for Merrie England, to return to you no more! + Rolling home, rolling home! + Rolling home, across the sea! + Rolling home to Merrie England! + Rolling home, my love to thee! + +To Mrs Widger's great disgust, Tony has been learning _in bed_ the +correct words (he knew the tune) of "Gay Spanish Ladies." That he gave +us as a finale. + + Farewell and adieu to you, gay Spanish Ladies. + Farewell and adieu to you, Ladies of Spain! + For we've received orders for to sail for old England. + But we hope in a short time to see you again. + + We'll rant and we'll roar like true British heroes, + We'll rant and we'll roar across the salt seas, + Until we strike soundings in the Channel of old England. + From Ushant to Scilly is thirty-five leagues.... + +How we did rant and roar the wonderful up-Channel verse, with its +clever use of the high-sounding promontories of the south! + + The first land we made, it was called the Deadman, + Next Ram Head off Plymouth, Start, Portland and Wight, + We passed up by Beachy, by Parley and Dungeness, + And hove our ship to off the South Foreland light.... + +Our glasses were empty. We drove out the cat, gutted some fish, +extinguished the lamp, and came upstairs to the tune, repeated, of +"Rolling Home." All the tunes are ringing in my head. + +[Sidenote: _ART THAT IS LIVED_] + +There is something about this singing of sea-songs by a seafarer which +makes them grip one extraordinarily. They are far from perfect in +execution, they are not always quite in tune, especially on Tony's high +notes, yet, I am certain, they are as artistic in the best sense as any +of the fine music I have heard. Tony sings with imagination: he sees, +_lives_ what he is singing. Between this sort of song and most, there +is much the same difference as between going abroad, and reading a book +of travels; or between singing folk-songs with the folk and twittering +bowdlerised versions in a drawing-room. However imperfect technically, +Tony's songs are an expression of the life he lives, rather than an +excursion into the realms of art--into the expression of other kinds of +life--with temporarily stimulated and projected imagination. His art is +perpetual creation, not repetition of a thing created once and for all. +The art that is _lived_, howsoever imperfect, has an advantage over +the most finished art that is merely repeated. Next after the music of, +as one might say, superhuman creative force--like Bach's and +Beethoven's--comes this kind, of Tony's. + +Cultured people talk about the artistic tastes of the poor, would have +them read--well, they don't quite know what--something 'good,' +something namely that appeals to the cultured. It has always been my +experience in much lending of books, that the poor will read the +literature of life's fundamental daily realities quickly enough, once +they know of its existence. What they will not read, what in the +struggle for existence they cannot waste time over, is the literature +of the _etceteras_ of life, the decorations, the vapourings. Sane +minds, like healthy bodies, crave strong meats, and the strong meats of +literature are usually the worst cooked. I am inclined to think that +the taste of the poor, the uneducated, is on the right lines, though +undeveloped, whilst the taste of the educated consists of beautifully +developed wrongness, an exquisite secession from reality. As Nietzsche +pointed out, degenerates love narcotics; something to make them forget +life, not face it. Their meats must be strange and peptonized. +Therefore they hate, they are afraid of, the greatest things in +life--the commonplace. Much culture has debilitated them. Rank life +would kill them--or save them. + + + + +VI + + + SALISBURY, + _October_. + + +1 + +It is just at dawn that the coming day declares itself most plainly; +not earlier, not later. This morning at peep o' day the wind was NNW., +the air delicate and peaceful. A band of dirty red water washed in +fantastic outline along the cliffs. The sea, with its calm great +rollers, bore upon it only the rags of last night's fury; as if it had +been less a part of the storm than a thing buffeted by the storm, and +now glad to sink into tranquillity. The air was scented with land +smells. Shafts of the dawn's sunlight beamed across it. Three punts put +off to find out if the lobster-pots had been washed away; the sea had +its little boats upon it again. But the sky, to the SW., was looking +very wild. The wind was SW. in the offing. + +While we were at breakfast a southerly squall burst open the kitchen +door. Mrs Widger got up to see what child it was. A screaming sea-gull +mocked her. + +The storm came. The trees by the railway bowed and tossed. Rain +spattered against the carriage windows. Dead leaves scurried by. I +wanted to get out, to go back. I wanted to know whether Tony was at +sea. Here, at Salisbury they are already talking about the 'great +storm'; some of the beautiful elms are down. What must the storm have +been at Seacombe! + +Curiously, I felt, the first time for years, as if I were leaving home +for boarding school--the warmth behind, the chill in front. I smelt +again the rank soft-soap in the great bare schoolrooms. + + +2 + +A postcard from Tony-- + + "quite please to get your letter this morning it as been rough ever + since you left Seacombe it was a gale the night you went Back the + sea was all in over and knocking the boats about the road. I haven + been out sea sinsce it is still rough hear now it is blowing a gale + of wind I expect we shall get some witing and herring in the bay + when the weather get fine the sea hear is like the cliff now red. + Us aven catched nort nobody cant go to sea. + + "TONY. + + "I will write a letter soon. + + "P.S. Tony just waked up. George is coming home, Tony mazed with + excitement and wishes you was here. + + "MAM W." + +So do I! + + +3 + +[Sidenote: _TONY OFF TO SEA_] + +The evening before I left Seacombe, Tony was telling us how upset and +miserable he was, how he cried, when his two elder brothers left home +to join the Navy. Also he told us what I knew nothing of before--his +own one attempt to go to sea aboard a merchantman. When he was at +Cloade's he looked on fishing as a refuge from groceries, and when he +had given up groceries for fishing, he looked on a ship's fo'c'stle as +a refuge from that. Fishing was very bad one summer. He and Dick Yeo +agreed to run away together: + +"Us was doin' nort noway wi' the fishing--nort 't all. Father, Granfer +that is, wer away to his drill wi' the Royal Naval Reserves. So Dick +Yeo an' me agreed to go off together. Where he went, I was to go tu, +an' where I went, he was to come. He had two pounds put away, in gold. +I only had half a crown, an' cuden't see me way to get no more nuther. +'Casn' thee ask thy maid for some?' Dick said. I was ashamed, like, but +I did. + +"'What's thee want it for?" her asked. + +"'Tisn' nothing doing down here,' I says, 'an' I wants to go to sea.' + +"'I an't got no money,' the maid says. + +"'Casn' thee get nort?' I asks, having begun, you see. I'd been goin' +with her for nigh on two years. + +"Her cried bitter at the thought o' me going, but her did get seven +shillin's from a fellow servant. I told me mother--her cried tu'--an' +off us started, going by train to Bristol and stopping the night at the +Sailor's Rest. 'Twasn't bad, you know. They Restis be gude things. +Dick, he woke in the morning wi' a swelled faace, but I didn' feel +nort. + +"Dick Yeo paid both our boat fares from Bristol to Cardiff. The +steward--what us urned against aboard ship--recommended us to a lodging +house in Adelaide Street, an' he giv'd me a note for a man at the Board +o' Trade, sayin' we was Demshire fishin' chaps an' gude seamen. + +"Well, us went to the lodging house an' gave in our bags an' took a +room wi' fude [food] for two an' six a day--each, mind yu. Then us +looked into a big underground room wer there was a lot o' foreigners +gathered round a fire an' us didn' much like the looks o' that. So us +went straight down to the docks an' tried to ship together on several +sailing ships an' steamers. Some on 'em would on'y take me, an' some +were down to sail at a future date, like, what our money wouldn't last +out tu. _I_ cude ha' got a ship, 'cause I had me Naval Reserve ticket, +but nobody cuden't du wi' both on us--an' where one went t'other was to +go tu, by agreement. + +[Sidenote: _AT THE BOARD O' TRADE_] + +"Us went back to the lodging house, into a sort o' kitchen in a cellar, +where there was a 'Merican wi' a long white beard cooking, an' men +drunk spewing, an' men lying about asleep like logs. The 'Merican, his +beard looking so red as hell in the firelight, wer stirring some kind +o' stew. Yu shade ha' see'd the faaces what the glow o' they coals +shined on! An' the fude.... An' the tables an' plates.... I've a-gone +short many a time in my day, but I'd never ha' touched muck like they +offered to gie us there. Dick an' me crept up the staircase to bed wi' +empty bellies thic night. + +"Soon a'ter we was to bed, Dick says to me: 'Can 'ee feel ort yer +Tony?' + +"'No,' I says, an' whatever 'twas, I didn' feel ort o'it. But I see'd +'em crawling so thick as sea-lice on the wall in a southerly gale, an' +I tell 'ee, 'twas they things what took the heart out o' me more'n ort +else, aye! more'n the food an' being away from home. Us cuden turn out, +'cause the landlord had our bags an' us hadn' got no money to get 'em +back wi', nor nowhere else at all to go tu. + +"Next morning, us went straight down to the docks again. Cuden' eat no +breakfast what they give'd us. Didn' know what to du. I only had +tuppence left, which wuden' ha' taken me home again, not if I'd been +willing to give up and go. Come to the last, us was forced to break our +agreement. I signed on as able seaman--_able_ seaman 'cause I was a +fishing chap an' had me Royal Naval Reserve ticket--aboard the +_Brooklands_, bound for Bombay. Penny o' me tuppence, I spent writing +home to tell mother. I cuden' stay aboard the ship (an' get summut to +eat) 'cause I had my gear to get an' a ship to find for Dick--an' we +still had hopes, like, o' getting a ship together. Howsbe-ever, us +cuden't, nohow. The writer aboard the _Brooklands_ wuden't advance +me no wages to get any gear. He told me the landlord to the lodging +house wude, him what had our bags a'ready. + +"Then I thought o' the steward's note to the Board o' Trade officer, +an' us inquired our way to the Board o' Trade, where ther was a gert +crowd outside. 'Twas by that us know'd the place. A man told us as the +officer what the note was directed tu, wude appear outside the door an' +call. Sure 'nuff, he did--wi' gold buttons on his coat--an' called out: +'Six A.B.'s for the _Asia_'! + +"'Who be that?' I asked. + +"'That's he,' the man said. 'He'll come out again by'm-bye.' + +"Us worked our way to the front--getting cussed horrible for our +pains--an' when Mr Gold-Buttons 'peared again, I give'd him the +steward's note. He luked at it--an' us. He cude offer me something an' +said as he'd du his best for me, but he cuden' hold out no promise for +Dick because, see, he hadn' got no Naval Reserve ticket. + +[Sidenote: "_WER DICK GOES, I GOES_"] + +"'Wher Dick goes, I goes,' I says, like that. With which the Board o' +Trade officer leaves us waiting there. + +"After an hour or so, he com'd out an' called, as if he hadn' ha' +know'd us: 'Anthony Widger an' Richard Yeo! Richard Yeo an' Anthony +Widger o' Seacombe!' + +"'Yer we be, sir,' shouts I, thinking we was fixed up. + +"'Be yu Anthony Widger an' Richard Yeo? Come in.' + +"Dick, he went in behind the officer, an' me behind Dick. 'Twer a +darkish passage, but as the door closed I luked, an' there, hidden +behind the door, sort o' flattened against the wall, who did I see but +Dick's mother; her'd come all that way by herself. I called to Dick. + +"'What the bloody hell be doin' here?' said Dick swearing awful. + +"'Don't thee swear at thy mother, Dick,' I says. + +"'Dick!' her says, 'Dick, come home again. Your father's breakin' his +heart.' + +"'Go to b----ry!' says Dick, swearing worse'n ever, 'cause _he_ was +wanting in his heart to be home again, yu see. + +"I burst out crying, then and there, wi' seeing Dick's mother cry, an' +all o'it what we'd been drough. The Board o' Trade officer repeated as +he'd help me an' no doubt find me a ship, but Dick--his mother was +come'd for he. + +"'Wer Dick goes, I goes,' says I. + +"Then Dick's mother, her says: 'Will 'ee come home then, Tony?' + +"'Wer Dick goes, I goes,' I says again. 'Twas fixed in me head, like. + +"'Well,' her says, 'if Dick comes home, will yu come too?' + +"I told her: 'I've a-signed on aboard the _Brooklands_, an' I'll hae to +tramp it 'cause I an't got no money.' + +"'Well, if I pays _your_ fare too?' + +"'Wer Dick goes, I'll go!' I says. + +"So her got over Dick a bit, an' the Board o' Trade man told us to come +again, saying as he'd do anything for me, but Dick's mother was come'd +for he. An' Mrs Yeo asked us to go wi' her to a restaurant.... That +turned me more'n ort else 'cause us hadn' eaten the stuff to the +lodging house an' us _was_ hungry. An' her telegraphed home to Dick's +father for a trap to meet us to Totnes, for 'twas a Saturday an' there +wern't no trains no nearer home. + +"Us went to the station, Dick swearing awful, an' in the end us come'd +to Totnes to find the trap. + +"The trap was there at the inn, sure 'nuff, an' the ostler was waiting +up, but the man what come'd wi' the trap was disappeared. We on'y found +'en at two in the morning, sleeping dead drunk in the manger, an' then +he an' the ostler began fighting on account o' the ostler casting out a +slur 'cause Dick's mother didn' gie him no more than a shilling. A +policeman come an' cleared us out o' it! + +[Sidenote: _CARRIAGE PEOPLE_] + +"Two or dree mile out o' Totnes the horse stops dead an' begins to go +back'ards. Us coaxed 'en, like, an' still he kept on stopping an' +walking back'ards. Dick an' me got out to walk to the halfway inn. +There the landlord wuden' come down for us. But he did when the trap +come'd up--us was carriage people than, yu see. We had drinks round, +an' us give'd flour an' water to the horse to make 'en go. But us hadn' +gone far when he stopped an' began to go back'ards again. Dick, he +started swearing. 'Let's walk on,' I says, to get 'en out o'it; an' so +us did for a mile or so. 'Twas dark, wi' a mizzling rain--an' +quiet--an' the trees like shadows. A proper logie night 'twas. Wude 'ee +believe me when I says I cude smell the flowers I cuden' see? Us was +glad when a tramp caught up wi' us. + +"'Have 'ee see'd ort o' a horse an' trap wi' two persons in 'en?' I +askis. + +"'Two mile back,' he says. + +"'Us lef 'en only a mile back,' Dick says. + +"'He've a-gone a mile back'ards then!' says I. + +"And with the same, Dick laughs out loud, an' I laughs, an' the tramp, +he laughs.... 'Twas the first laugh us had since us left Seacombe, an' +I reckon it did us gude. Us went on better a'ter that. I covered the +tramp up wi' hay in a hay loft, advising of him not to smoke. I could +ha' slept tu; I wer heavy for a gude bed; but I saw lights in the +farmhouse winder, an' us wer so near home again. + +"Well, we crept into Seacombe by the back (people was jest astir, +Sunday morning) going each our way from the churchyard, an' I listened +outside mother's door. Father was home again, an' they was to +breakfast. Her'd had my letter telling them as I'd a-shipped for +Bombay. + +"'They'll Bumbay the beggar!' father was saying, only 'twasn't 'beggar' +as he did say. + +"Then my sister Mary, cried out: 'Here's Tony!' + +"'I know'd _he'd_ never go to Bumbay!' outs father so quick as ever. + +"But they was so pleased as Punch to see Tony back, cas I ude see, if +they'd ha' cared to say so. I don' know 'xactly why I went off to +sea--summut inside driving of me--'twasn't only 'cause there wern't +nothing doin'--but I an't never been no more. An' thic Mam Widger +there'd hae summut to say about it now. Eh, Annie?" + + +4 + +[Sidenote: _THE SEA'S STAMP_] + +It is an Englishman's privilege to grumble, and a sailorman's duty; yet +one thing always strikes me in talking to seafaring men, namely how +indelible the sea's stamp is; how indissolubly they are bound to the +sea--with sunken bonds like those which unite an old married +couple,--and also what outbursts of savage hatred they have against it. +Tony says that if he could earn fifteen shillings a week regularly on +land, he would give up the sea altogether. I very much doubt it. The +sea has him fast. He says further that nobody would go to sea unless he +were caught young and foolish, and that few would stay there if they +could get away. There are, among the older fishermen of Seacombe, some +who have worked well, and could still work, but prefer to stay ashore +and starve. Tony holds them excused. "Aye!" he says, "they've a-worked +hard in their day, an' they knows they ain't no for'arder. An' now +they'm weary o' it all, an' don't care; an' that's how I'll be some +day, if I lives--weary o'it, an' just where I was!" + +But the sea has her followers, and will continue to have them, because +seafaring is the occupation in which health, strength and courage have +their greatest value; in which being a man most nearly suffices a man. +It is remarkable that Baudelaire, decadent Frenchman, apostle of the +artificial, who was violently home-sick when he went on a voyage, +should have expressed the relation of man and the sea--their enmity and +love--more subtly than any English poet. + + Homme libre, toujours tu chériras la mer; + La mer et ton miroir; tu contemples ton âme + Dans le déroulement infini de sa lame, + Et ton esprit n'est pas un gouffre moins amer. + + Tu te plais à plonger au sein de ton image; + Tu l'embrasses des yeux et des bras, et ton coeur + Se distrait quelquefois de sa propre rumeur + Au bruit de cette plainte indomptable et sauvage. + + Vous êtes tous les deux ténébreux et discrets: + Homme, nul n'a sondé le fond de tes abîmes, + O mer, nul ne connaît tes richesses intimes, + Tant vous êtes jaloux de garder vos secrets! + + Et cependant voilà des siècles innombrables + Que vous vous combattez sans pitié ni remord, + Tellement vous aimez le carnage et la mort, + O lutteurs éternels, ô frères implacables! + +[Sidenote: _SEA-LARGENESS_] + +The sea is never mean. Strife and brotherhood with it give a largeness +to men which, like all deep qualities of the spirit, can be neither +specified nor defined; only felt, and seen in the outcome. The +Seacombe fishermen are more or less amphibious; ocean-going seamen +look down on them. They are petty in some small things, notably in +jealousy lest one man do more work, or make more money, than another: +to say a man is doing well is to throw out a slur against him. +Nevertheless in the larger, the essential things of life, their +sea-largeness nearly always shows itself. They are wonderfully +charitable, not merely with money. They carp at one another, but let a +man make a mess of things, and he is gently treated. I have never +heard Tony admit that any man--even one who had robbed him--had not +his very good points. Is a man a ne'er-do-well, a drunkard, an idler? +"Ah," they say, "his father rose he up like a gen'leman, an' that's +what comes o'it." In their dealings, they curiously combine generosity +and close-fistedness--close-fistedness in earning, and generosity in +spending and lending. A beachcomber, for simply laying a hand to a +rope, receives a pint of beer, or the price of it, and next moment the +fisherman who paid the money may be seen getting wet through and +spoiling his clothes in order to drag a farthing's worth of jetsam +from the surf. Tony fails to understand how a gen'leman can possibly +haggle over the hire of a boat. When he goes away himself, he pays +what is asked; regrets it afterwards, if at all; and comes home when +his money is done. "If a gen'leman," he says, "can't afford to pay the +rate, what du 'ee come on the beach to hire a boat for--an' try to +beat a fellow down? I reckon 'tis only a _sort o' gen'leman_ as does +that!" + +Like most seafarers, the fishermen are fatalistic. "What's goin' to be, +will be, an' that's the way o'it." But they are not thoroughgoing +fatalists, inasmuch as disappointment quickly turns to resentment +against something handy to blame. If, for example, we catch no fish, +Tony will blame the tide, the hour, the weather, the boat, the sail, +the leads, the line, the hooks, the bait, the fish, his mate--anything +rather than accept the one fact that, for reasons unknown, the fish are +off the bite. A thoroughgoing fatalist would blame, if he did not +acquiesce in, fate itself or his luck. + +Tony is a black pessimist as regards the present and to-morrow; +convinced that things are not, and cannot be, what they were; but as +regards the further future, the day after to-morrow, he is a resolute +optimist. "Never mind how bad things du look, summut or other'll sure +to turn up. It always du. I've a-proved it. I've a-see'd it scores o' +times." He can earn money by drifting for mackerel and herring, hooking +mackerel, seining for mackerel, sprats, flat-fish, mullet and bass, +bottom-line fishing for whiting, conger or pout, lobster and crab +potting, and prawning; by belonging to the Royal Naval Reserve; by +boat-hiring; by carpet-beating and cleaning up. I have even seen him +dragging a wheel chair. His boats and gear represent, I suppose, a +capital of near a hundred pounds. It would be hard if he earned +nothing. Yet he is certain that his earnings, year in and year out, +scarcely average fifteen shillings a week. "Yu wears yourself out wi' +it an' never gets much for'arder." The money, moreover, comes in +seasons and lump-sums; ten pounds for a catch perhaps, then nothing for +weeks. Mrs Widger must be, and is, a good hand at household management +and at putting money by. I doubt if Tony ever knows how much, or how +little, gold she has, stored away upstairs. Probably it is as well. He +is a generous man with money. He 'slats it about' when he has it. + +[Sidenote: _OPEN BOATS_] + +It has to be realised that these fishermen exercise very great skill +and alertness. To sail a small open boat in all weathers requires a +quicker hand and judgment than to navigate a seagoing ship. Seacombe +possesses no harbour, and therefore Seacombe men can use no really +seaworthy craft. "'Tis all very well," Tony says, "for people to buzz +about the North Sea men an' knit 'em all sorts o' woollen gear. They +North Sea men an' the Cornishmen wi' their big, decked harbour boats, +they _have_ got summut under their feet--somewhere they can get in +under, out the way o'it. They _can_ make themselves comfor'able, an +ride out a storm. But if it comes on to blow when we'm to sea in our +little open craft, we got to hard up an' get home along--if us can. +For the likes o' us, 'tis touch an' go wi' the sea!" + +Tony knows. At places like Seacombe every boat, returning from sea, +must run ashore and be hauled up the beach and even, in rough weather, +over the sea-wall. The herring and mackerel drifters, which may venture +twenty miles into the open sea, cannot be more than twenty-five feet in +length else they would prove unwieldy ashore. To avoid their heeling +over and filling in the surf, they must be built shallow, with next to +no keel. They have therefore but small hold on the water; they do not +sail close to the wind, and beating home against it is a long wearisome +job. Again, because the gear for night work in small craft must be as +simple as possible, such boats usually carry only a mizzen and a +dipping lug--the latter a large, very picturesque, but unhandy, sail +which has to be lowered or 'dipped' every time the boat tacks. Neither +comfort nor safety is provided by the three feet or so of decking, the +'cuddy' or 'cutty,' in the bows. To sleep there with one's head +underneath, is to have one's feet outside, and _vice versa_. In +rough broken seas the open beach drifter must be handled skilfully +indeed, if she is not to fill and sink. + +I have watched one of them running home in a storm. The wind was +blowing a gale; the sea running high and broken. One error in steering, +one grip of the great white sea-horses, meant inevitable wreck. Every +moment or two the coastguard, who was near me with a telescope to his +eye, exclaimed, "She's down!" But no. She dodged the combers like a +hare before greyhounds, now steering east, now west, on the whole +towards home. It was with half her rudder gone that she ran ashore +after a splendid exhibition of skill and nerve, many times more +exciting than the manoeuvres of a yacht race. Were there not many +such feats of seamanship among fishermen, there would be more widows +and orphans. + +[Sidenote: _BOATS SHEERING_] + +Those are the craft, those the sort of men--two usually to a boat--that +put to sea an hour or two before sunset, ride at the nets through the +night, and return towards or after dawn. Anything but a moderate breeze +renders drifting impossible. In a calm, the two men are bound to row, +for hours perhaps, with heavy 16-20 ft. sweeps. Moreover, if the sea +makes, or a ground swell rises, the least mistake in beaching a boat +will cause it to sheer round, capsize, and wash about in the breakers +with the crew most probably beneath it. Yarns are told of arms and legs +appearing, of a horrible tortured face appearing, while the upturned +boat washed about in the undertow, and those ashore were powerless to +help. There is nothing the fishermen dread so much. One of them owns to +leaving the beach when he has seen a boat running in on a very rough +sea, so that he might not endure witnessing what he could not +prevent.--He peeped however. + +These risks need considering, not in order to exaggerate the dangers of +drifting in open beach boats--in point of fact, accidents seldom do +happen,--but to show what skill is habitually exercised, what a touch +and go with the sea it is. + +Sundown is the time for shooting nets. Eight to fourteen are carried +for mackerel, six to ten for herrings--the scantier the fish, the +greater the number of nets. At Seacombe they are commonly forty fathoms +in length along the headrope which connects them all, and five fathoms +deep. Stretching far away from the boat, as it drifts up and down +Channel with the tides, is a line, perhaps a thousand yards long, of +cork buoys. From these hang the lanyards[16] which support the headrope, +from the headrope hang perpendicularly the nets themselves. Judgment is +needed in shooting a fleet of nets. They may get foul of the bottom or +of another boat's fleet. When, on account of careless shooting or +tricks of the tide, the nets of several boats become entangled, there +is great confusion, and the cursing is loud. + + [16] For herrings the lanyards may be of such a length that the + foot of the net almost touches the sea-bottom. For mackerel, + which is a surface and midwater fish, they are much shorter, so + that the headrope lies just below the top of the water. + +Nets shot, the fishermen make fast the road for'ard; sup, smoke, sing, +creep under the cutty, and sleep with one eye open. + +Sometimes they are too wet to sleep; often in the winter it is too +cold. + +Afterwards, the laborious hauling in--one man at the headrope and the +other at the foot. Contrary to a very general impression, the fish are +not enclosed within the net, as in seining or in pictures of the +miraculous draught of fishes. They prod their snouts into the meshes, +and are caught by the gills. There may not be a score in a whole fleet +of nets, or they may come up like a glittering mat, beyond the strength +of two men to lift over the gunwale. Twenty-five thousand herring is +about the burthen of an open beach drifter. Are there more, nets must +be given away at sea, or buoyed up and left--or cut, broken, lost. +Small catches are picked out of the nets as they are hauled in, large +catches ashore. + +[Sidenote: _FISHERMEN FLEECED_] + +It is ashore that the fisherman comes off worst of all. Neither +educated nor commercialized, he is fleeced by the buyers. And if he +himself dispatches his haul to London.... Dick Yeo once went up to +Billingsgate and saw his own fish sold for about ten pounds. On his +return to Seacombe, he received three pounds odd, and a letter from the +salesman to say that there had been a sudden glut in the market. +Fishermen boat-owners have an independence of character which makes it +difficult for them to combine together effectively, as wage-servers do. +They act too faithfully on the adage that a bird in the hand is worth +two in the bush, and ten shillings on the beach a sovereign at +Billingsgate. So 'tis, when + + There's little to earn and many to keep, + +and no floating capital at a man's disposal. + +In recent years, owing to bad prices and seasons and general lack of +encouragement, or even of fair opportunity, the number of sea-going +drifters at Seacombe has decreased by two-thirds. Much the same has +happened at other small fishing places along the coast. This +decline--so complacently acquiesced in by the powers that be--is of +national importance; for the little fisheries are the breeding ground +of the Navy. Nowadays fishermen put their sons to work on land. +"'Tain't wuth it," they say, "haulin' yer guts out night an' day, an' +gettin' no forrarder at the end o'it." Luckily for England the sea's +grip is a firm one, and many of the sons return to it. + +When one hears Luscombe talk about the maddening trouble he has had in +teaching plough-tail or urban recruits to knot and splice a rope, or +watches, as I have, a couple of blue-jackets drive ashore in a small +boat because they couldn't hoist sail, then one comprehends better the +importance of the fisher-families whose work is made up of endurance, +exposure, nerve and skill; who play touch and go with the sea; and who +in the slack seasons have--unlike the ordinary workman--only too much +time to think for themselves. They are the backbone of the Navy. + + + + +VII + + + SEACOMBE, + _November_. + + +1 + +Whilst the train was drawing up at the platform, I noticed the people +moving and looking downwards as if dogs were running wild amongst them. +Then I saw two whitish heads bobbing about in the crowd. It was Jimmy +and another boy come to meet me. + +We gave the luggage to the busman, and walked on down. + +"Tommy's gone tu Plymouth." + +"What for?" + +"They'm going to cut his eyes out an' gie 'en spectacles." + +"When did he go?" + +A rather sulky silence.... + +Then: "Us thought 'ee was going to ride down. Dad said as yu'd be sure +tu." + +"'Tisn't far to walk, Jimmy...." + +"Us be tired." + +Alack! I had done the wrong thing. Their little festivity, that was to +have made them the envy of 'all they boys tu beach,' had fallen flat. +They had expected to ride down 'like li'l gentry-boys.' However, we +bought oranges, and then I was taken to see yesterday's fire, and was +told how Tony had rushed into the blazing house to rescue a carpet 'an' +didn' get nort for it.' + +Tony himself came downstairs from putting away an hour in bed. "I'd ha' +come up to meet 'ee," he said sleepily, "if anybody'd a reminded me +o'it. Us an't done nort to the fishing since you went away." + +"An' yu an't chopped up to-morrow morning's wude nuther!" added Mrs +Widger. + +Grannie Pinn came in at tea-time. We invited her to sit down and have a +cup. "Do 'ee think I an't got nothing to eat at home?" she asked. +"Well, I have, then!--Ay," she continued, bobbing her head +sententiously, "yu got a mark in Seacombe, else yu wuden't be down yer +again so sune. That's what 'tis--a mark! I knows, sure nuff. Come on! +who be it now? What's her like, eh?" + +She cannot understand how any young unmarried man can be without his +sweetheart. Everybody according to her, must have a mark, or be in +search of one. I told her with the brutality which delights her factual +old mind, that if she herself had been a little less antique and +poverty-stricken.... + +"There! if I don't come round and box yer yers. Yu'm al'ays ready wi' +yer chake." + +[Sidenote: _A MARK_] + +Then I offered her five _per cent._ of the lady's fortune, if she +would find me a mark with unsettled money. Though she laughed it off, +she was not a little scandalized by my levity. The Tough Old Stick has +not outlived her memory of romance. Indeed, I think she holds to it all +the tighter for her hardheadedness in every-day affairs. + +Midway through tea, Straighty crept into the kitchen. "What do _yu_ +want?" shouted Grannie Pinn. "Bain't there enough kids yer now?" +Straighty stood in the centre of the kitchen, sucking three fingers +and looking shyly at me from beneath her tousled tow-coloured hair. + +"You've not forgotten me, Straighty?" I asked. "You're not frightened +of me, are you?" + +"Go an' speak to 'en proper," commanded Grannie Pinn. "Wer's yer +manners, Dora?" + +"_Yu_ didn' speak to me proper, Grannie Pinn! Wer's yours?" + +"Aw, my dear soul! Now du 'ee shut up wi' yer chake!" + +Straighty remained sucking her fingers in the middle of the kitchen. +She seemed about to cry. Quite suddenly, her eyes brightened. She +glided over to me, put her wet fingers round my neck ("Dora!" from Mrs +Widger), and gave me a big kiss on the chin. Then she told me all about +everything, sitting with her head on my shoulder in the old courting +chair. + +A tiny little episode, I grant; but very sweet. + +"That's your mark?" Grannie Pinn shouted. "You'll hae tu wait for she!" + +Straighty is established as my mark, and takes her duties, as she has +learnt to conceive them, with amusing seriousness. She will not let me +go out through the Square without being told where I am off to, nor let +me return in house until I tell her where I have been. At the beginning +of every meal we hear her creeping up the passage; see her yellow hair +against the door-post. By the end of the meal she has summoned up +courage to claim a kiss. "Now be off tu your mother!" says Mrs Widger. + + +2 + +Mrs Widger has let the back bedroom to a young married couple possessed +of a saucer-eyed baby that cries lustily whenever its mother is out of +its sight. How they succeed in living, sleeping, baby-tending and doing +their minor cookery in the one pokey little room, already half filled +by the bedstead, is difficult to understand. They do it. We see little +of them, except just when we had rather see nothing at all. + +For dinner and the subsequent cup o' tay, Mam Widger allows one hour. +But usually, before even the pudding is out of the oven, first one of +us, then another, glances round to make sure that the kettle is well on +the fire. + +[Sidenote: _MRS PERKINS_] + +Nowadays, however, when the kettle is beginning to sing, Mrs Perkins, +the baby in her arms, comes downstairs and proceeds to cook for her +husband a couple of small chops or a mess of meat-shreds and bubble and +squeak. She stirs and chatters; she holds forth on the baby's beauty +and goodness, its health, its father's love of it--and, in short, she +talks to us as if we were delighted to see her and her baby. Tony's +good manners triumph comically over his desire to get his cup o' tay +and put away an hour up over. (He likes to take every chance of making +up for wakeful nights at sea.) We all wish she would go quickly. +Meanwhile, we feign an interest in what blousy, skirt-gaping, +slop-slippered, enthusiastic maternity has to say. + +And when she does go, it is with a most joyful haste that we move the +kettle to the very hottest part of the fire. + + +3 + +The family hubbub over Tommy's stay in the Plymouth Eye Infirmary has +hardly died down yet. Recognizing with uncommon good sense that his +double squint would bar him from the Navy or Army (he shows an +inclination towards the latter), Mrs Widger took him to Plymouth; and +on hearing that an operation would cure him, she did not hesitate, did +not bring him home to think about it; she left him there. Then.... What +a buzz! The child is to return very thin. Mrs Widger's cousin declares +loudly that she would rather lead her boy about blind (he squints +excessively) than let him go to one o' they places. Tony says, "Aye! +they may feed 'en on food of a better quality like, after the rate, but +he won't get done like he is at home." Several times daily he wants to +know how long they will keep Tommy there, and when Mrs Widger replies, +six weeks, he asks in a woe-begone voice: "Do 'ee think 'er'll know his +dad when 'er comes home again?" + +All of which is easy to laugh at. + +No doubt hospitals are a godsend to the poor, immediately if not +ultimately. At the same time, it cannot be said that the prejudice +against them is wholly unreasonable. Poor people declare that they are +starved in hospital, and it is, in fact, now recognized in dietetics +that comparatively innutritious food, eaten with gusto, is better +assimilated than the most scientifically chosen but unpalatable +nutriment. A man, a poor man especially, can be half starved or at all +events much thinned, on good food, who would do well on the habitual +coarse fare that he enjoys. His life is a long adventure in a land +where every other turning leads to starvation, but his adventurousness +seldom extends to new sorts of food. + +[Sidenote: _HOSPITALS_] + +No one is so depressed by strange surroundings as the average poor man +or woman. (Children get on much better.) Very likely he has never been +alone, has never slept away from some relative or friend, the whole of +his life. The unfamiliarity and precise routine of hospitals, the faces +and ways all strange, are capable not only of greatly intensifying a +man's sufferings, but even of retarding his recovery. + +Hospitals must necessarily be governed by two main conditions:--(1) The +need of doing the greatest good to the greatest number; (2) The +advancement of medical science and experience. Under (1) the +overpressure on medical skill and time is bound to diminish tact and +sympathy. Under (2) the serious or interesting cases are apt--as +everyone who has mixed with hospital staffs knows very well--to receive +attention not disproportionate to the nature of the malady, but +disproportionate to the bodily, and particularly to the mental, +suffering. The poor man can appreciate sympathy better than skill. He +may not know how ill he is, but he knows how much he suffers. He is +quick to detect and to resent preferential treatment. From the point of +view of the independent poor, hospitals are far from what they might +be. They are last straws for drowning men, useful sometimes, but best +avoided.[17] + + [17] I trust I make it plain that these statements imply no + general disparagement of hospitals. Whether or no they do the + best possible under the circumstances is not to be discussed + shortly or by the present writer. Since penning the above, it has + fallen to me to take a patient to the out-department of one of + the great London hospitals. We had some time to wait, with very + many others, on long wooden benches. I cannot express the almost + unbearable depression, the sense of ebbing vitality, the feeling + of being jammed in a machine, which took possession of me, who + was quite well. And I wish I could adequately express my + admiration of the visiting surgeon's manipulation of his delicate + instruments and his management of the patient. + +[Sidenote: _JACKS THE RIPPER_] + +Jacks is a very energetic young country surgeon. He is keen on his work +and will procure admission to the hospital for any operative case. But +he finds it by no means easy to get his patients there; for he is so +keen on his work that he treats their feelings carelessly; hustles them +through an operation; pooh-poohs their fear of anaesthetics and the +knife. Jacks is well disliked by the poor. He has to live, and +therefore he has to cultivate a professional manner and to dance +attendance on wealthy hypochrondriacal patients whom otherwise he would +probably send to the devil. The poor people have told him to his face +that he runs after the rich and cuts about the poor; and they have +nicknamed him _Jacks the Ripper_. + +Tony would have to be very far gone before he would willingly go into a +hospital. Just now, between the mackerel and herring seasons, he is fat +and sleepy, very sleek for him. Rheumatic fever in boyhood and +neglected colds have left him rather deaf, and subject to noises in the +head and miscellaneous bodily pains. He is 'a worriter' by nature. +"When I gets bothered," he says, "I often feels as if summut be busted +in me head." As the herring season comes round, so will Tony 'hae the +complaints again,' and few will pity a man who always looks so well. A +few years back, Mrs Widger procured for his deafness some quack +treatment--which did do him good;--but he himself had little faith in +it, and did not persevere. Like the mothers who rejoice in delicate +children rather than feed them properly and send them early to bed, +Tony prefers to think his ailments constitutional, a possession of his, +a curse of fate, which flatters him, so to speak, by singling him out +for its attentions. In a couple of years' time, when he comes out of +the Royal Naval Reserve, he will have the option of accepting £50 down +at once, or of waiting till he is sixty for a pension of four shillings +a week. Mrs Widger understands perfectly that unless he wants to buy +boats and gear--unless, in other words, he can make the £50 +productive--he had much better wait for the pension and be sure of a +roof over his head when he is past work. Tony, however, will probably +take the lump sum. He fears he may die and get nothing at all. He does +not _feel_ that he will never see sixty, but he is of opinion that +he will not, and sixty to a man of his temperament is such a long way +hence. He thinks as little as possible of old age. "Aye!" he +says--almost chants, so moved is he,--"the likes o' us slaves an' +slaves all our life, an' us never gets no for'arder. Like as us be when +we'm young, so us'll be at the end o'it all. Come the time when yu'm +past work, an' yu be done an' wearied out, then all yer slavin's gone +for nort. Tis true what I says. I dunno what to think--but 'tis the way +o'it. 'Tain't right like. 'Tain't right!" + + +4 + +"Go shrimping wi' the setting-nets t'night, I reckon," said Uncle Jake. +"Tide be low 'tween twelve and one o'clock. Jest vitty, that." + +It was one of those evenings, wind WSW., when the sea and sky look +stormier than they are, or will be. Uncle Jake stood on the very edge +of the sea wall, his hands in his pockets, his torn jumper askew, and +his old cap cocked over one ear. From time to time he turned half round +to deride a dressy visitor, or for warmth's sake twisted his body about +within his clothing, or shrugged his shoulders humorously with a, "'Tis +a turn-out o'it!" The seine net had just been shot from the beach for +less than a sovereign's worth of fish--to be divided, one third for the +owner of the net and the remainder among the seven men who had lent a +hand. + +[Sidenote: _PRAWNING_] + +"Coo'h!" Uncle Jake exclaimed. "_'Tis_ a crib here! Nort 't all doing. +Not like 't used tu be. I mind when yu cude haul in a seine so full +as.... Might pick up a shilling or tu t'night shrimping, if they damn +visitors an' bloody tradesmen an't been an' turned the whole o' Broken +Rocks up an' down. _I_ tells 'em o'it!" + +"Shrimps or prawns, d'you mean?" + +"Why, prawns! Us calls it shrimping hereabout. You knows that. There's +prawns there if yu knows where to look, but not like 't used to be. +On'y they fules don' know where to look. An' they don' see Jake at it, +an' I never tells 'em what I gets nor what I sells at; an' so they says +I don' never du nort. I'd like to see they hae tu work waist-deep in +water every night for a week when they'm sixty-five. An' in the winter +tu!--If yu'm minded to come t'night, yu be up my house 'bout 'leven +o'clock, an' I'll fetch me nets from under cliff if they b----y b----rs +o' boys an't been there disturbin' of 'em." + +Uncle Jake's cottage looks outside like a small cellar that has somehow +risen above the ground and then has been thatched with old straw and +whitewashed. Inside, it is a shadowy place, stacked up high with +sailing and fishing gear, flotsam, jetsam, balks of wood and all the +odds and ends that he picks up on his prowlings along the coast. With +tattered paper screens, he has partitioned off, near the fire and +window, a small and very crowded cosy-corner. There he was sitting when +I arrived; bread, butter, onions, sugar and tea--his staple foods--on +the round table beside him, and his prawn-nets on the flagstones at his +feet. Three cats glided about among the legs of the table and chairs, +on the lookout to steal. Using the gentle violence that cats love from +those they trust, Uncle Jake flung them one by one to the other side of +the room. They returned, purring, to snatch at the none too fresh berry +[eggs] of spider-crab with which the nets were being baited. + +The shallow small-meshed setting-nets are about two feet in diameter at +the top. Stretched taut from side to side of the rim are two doubled +strings or _thirts_--which cross at right angles directly above the +centre of the net, and into which, near the middle, the four pieces of +bait are ingeniously and simply fixed by little sliders on the thirts +themselves. The whole apparatus hangs level from a yard or more of +stout line, at the upper end of which is a small stick, a stumpy +fishing rod, so to speak, often painted white so that it may be easily +found as it lies on the dark rocks. Uncle Jake's net-sticks, however, +are anything but white. Capable almost of finding them with his eyes +shut, he would sooner lose his nets altogether than let whitened sticks +point out to other people the pools which he alone knows. + +We put the nets into a couple of sacks and shouldered them. A long +light pole was placed into my hand. "Don't yu never leave your pole +behind. Yu'll want it, sure 'nuff, afore this night's over." + +So we set out. One by one the cats who were following, left us to go +back home. We did not walk towards the sea. On the contrary we went +inland, through some roads with demure sleeping villas on either side. +"If they bloody poachers," Uncle Jake explained, "see'd us going +straight towards the sea, they'd follow. _I_ knows 'em! They takes away +the livelihood o' the likes o' us an' sells it. Sells it--an' says 'tis +sport! I leads 'em a dance sometimes. I goes along a narrow ledge +that's jest under water, wi' ten or twelve feet depth on either side. +On they comes a'ter me. 'Uncle Jake knows where to go,' they says. And +in _they_ goes--not knowing the place like I du--head over heels an' a +swim for it! O Lor'! they don' like it when I tells 'em they better go +home an' tumble into dry clothes. Yu shude hear the language they spits +out o' their mouths 'long wi' the salt water. Horrible, tu be sure!" + +[Sidenote: _SETTING-NETS_] + +Broken Rocks, a playground for children by day, look wild and strange +on a night when clouds are driving across the moon, when the cliffs +fade into darkness high above the beach, and everything not black is +grey, except where the white surf beats upon the outermost ledge. Then +Broken Rocks have personality. A sinister spirit rises out of them with +the heave of the sea. It is as if some black mood, some great monotony +of strife, were closing in around one. On the sea wall, in the +sunshine, I used to wonder why Uncle Jake calls Broken Rocks a terr'ble +place. Now I do not. He works there by night. + +We peered out from the beach underneath the cliffs. Nobody had +forestalled us. Uncle Jake was pleased. He laughed hoarsely, and the +echo of it was not unlike the natural noises of the place. "Us'll make +a start there," he said, pointing to a ledge between which and +ourselves was a wide sheet of water. "Yu follow me an' feel for a +foothold wi' your pole. _Don't_ yu step afore yu've felt." + +Into the water he went; seemed, indeed, to run across it. "Be 'ee wet?" +he asked when I stepped out the other side. + +"Half way up my thighs!" + +"Yu hadn't no need to get wet so far up as your knees. I didn't. An' yu +might ha' gone in there over your head. Yu use your pole, skipper. Feel +afore yu steps. I'll set 'ee your two nets for a beginning." + +With his pole he felt the depth of the water around the ledge. Then he +dropped the nets down, edging them carefully under the overhanging +weed, and placed the sticks on the rock above. "Don't yu forget where +yu sets your nets. Yu won't _see_'em. An' when yu hauls up, go gently, +like so, else off goes all they master prawns, d'rec'ly they feels a +jerk.... Leave 'em down a couple o' minutes.... But there, yu knows, +don' 'ee? Us won't catch much till the tide turns. They prawns knows +when 'tis beginning to flow so well as yu an' me. Yu work this yer, an' +along easterly. I be going farther out." + +[Sidenote: _PRAWNS_] + +When I hauled up my first net I heard the faint clicketty noise--like +paper scratching metal--of three or four prawns jumping about inside. +My hand had to chase them many times round the net. One jumped over; +one fell through. Nothing is more difficult to withdraw from a net than +prawns, except it be a lobster, flipping itself about, hardly visible, +and striking continually with its nippers. There was a lobster in the +second net. It had to go into the same pocket as the prawns. It was +something of an adventure afterwards to put a hand into the pocketful +of lobster claws and prawn spines. + +Working eastward and outward, plunging in to the water or sliding with +bumps and bruises off a rock, I must have passed Deadman's Rock, Danger +Gutter, Broken Rock and the Wreckstone. (Things of the sea nearly +always take name from their evil aspects.) Uncle Jake could have told +me at any moment exactly where I was. + +At last, near the surf, I saw in front of me a flat table-rock, +standing up alone, and as I descended towards the foot of it, a high +black rocky archway became plain. Broad-leaved oarweed covered it like +giant hair, and hung drooping into the deep black pool beneath. The +moonlight glinted on the oarweed. The pool, though darkly calm, ebbed +and flowed silently with the waves outside. I recognized the place. It +was Hospital Rock--the rock the little boats strike on because it is +smooth on top and the waves do not break over it very much. I half +expected the ugly head of a great conger to look out at me from the +pool. As I lay flat on the rock to drop my nets, the rattle and roar of +the sea beyond, vibrating through the solid stone, the whistle of the +wind through the downhanging oarweed, sounded like an orchestra of the +mad damn'd. + +I caught nothing there, and was not sorry. The place was too eerie to +stay in long. "Ah!" said Uncle Jake when we met again on the inner +reef, "I've knowed they amateurs run straight off home when they've +a-found theirselves under Hospital. A terr'ble place! Yu knows now. Did +'ee set your nets there? Eh?" + +He took some fresh bait from his prawn bag and fixed it in the thirts +of my nets. "'Tis nearly over," he said, "but jest yu try that, an' if +they'm there that'll hae 'em. There's no bait like that there when yu +can get it, on'y nobody knows o'it." + +The nature of that bait I shall not divulge, any more than I shall name +the place where Uncle Jake goes to play with the young ravens in the +spring. Somebody might catch his prawns; somebody would shoot his +ravens. We had caught about two hundred prawns between us, a few +lobsters and some wild-crabs. As we walked homewards, the three cats +came down the lane, one by one, to welcome Uncle Jake. + +[Sidenote: _EAST WITH A SKIM-NET_] + +Next day we sailed east in the _Moondaisy_. Uncle Jake straddled the +pools and lifted the heavy stones. Then in a skim-net,[18] with +marvellous dexterity, he caught the almost invisible prawns as they +darted away. He dragged lobsters out of holes, and cursed the +neighbouring villagers who had been down to the shore after crabs and +had disturbed his favourite stones. He knows how each one ought to lie; +he even keeps the seaweed on some of them trimmed to its proper length. +"But 'tain't like 't used to be," he says. + + [18] Like a landing net, but shallower and with a shorter handle. + +He has almost given up going to sea for fish; some say because he will +not take the trouble; but I think it is because he loves his rocks and +cliffs so well. No one knows how much by night and day he haunts the +wilder stretches of shore, nor how many miles he trudges in a week. But +the gulls know him well, and will scream back to him when he calls. His +laugh has something of the gulls' cry in it. I have heard it remarked +that when his time comes (no sign of it yet) he will be found one +morning dead among his familiar rocks. He is acquainted with death +there. He has borne home on his shoulder by night the body of a woman +who had fallen from the cliffs above; and again a negro that had washed +ashore. With a little self-control one might have carried the woman all +right, but the drowned nigger.... Imagine his face in the darkness--his +eyes! Only a man with greatness in him, or a very callous man, could +have brought such a corpse home, all along under the crumbling cliffs; +and Uncle Jake is certainly not callous. + + +5 + +"Let 'em try any o' their tricks on me! They can turn out the likes o' +us all right, I s'pose. But I can tell 'em what I thinks on 'em, here's +luck. Thank God I don't live in no tradesman's house, an' can deal +where I likes. Not that I shouldn't anyway...." + +Grannie Pinn's shrill angry voice pierced the kitchen door. The +occasion was a mothers' gossiping; the subject, a kind of boycott that +is practised in Seacombe. On the table there was a jug of ale and stout +and an hospitably torn-open bag of biscuits. Around it sat Grannie +Pinn--bolt upright in the courting chair, with her hands folded--Mrs +Meer and Mam Widger. The feathers in Grannie Pinn's hat shook like a +bush on the cliff-edge. All of them looked as if they felt a vague +responsibility for the right conduct of the world. In short, they +looked political. + +[Sidenote: _POOR MAN v. TRADESMAN_] + +The poor people here live in small colonies scattered behind the main +street and among the villas, in little blocks of old neglected +property, some of which has been bought up by tradesmen. So much of the +former village spirit still survives, and so many of the tradesmen have +but recently risen from poorer circumstances, that between some of the +oldest and the youngest of them, and the workmen, there is even yet a +rather mistrustful fellowship. They call each other, Jim, Dick, Harry +and so on--over glasses, at all events. The growth of the class spirit, +as opposed to the old village spirit, can be seen plainly when Bessie +returns from school, saying: "Peuh! Dad's only a fisherman. Why can't +'er catch more fish an' get a little shop an' be a gen'leman?" Seacombe +tradesmen have been withdrawing into a class of their own--the class of +'not real gen'lemen'--and have been showing a tendency to act together +against the rest of the people, and to form rings for the purpose of +keeping shops empty or prices up. Nobody minds their bleeding visitors. +That is what God sends visitors for; and besides, the season is so +short. But when they began to overcharge their fellow townsmen, in +summer because it was the season and in winter because it wasn't the +season, the poor people revolted, and amid tremendous hubbub, thunders +of talk and lightnings of threat, a co-operative store was opened. Then +did the tradesmen remind the poor of old family debts, legacies from +hard times. Then did the poor say: "Very well, us'll hae our own store +and bakery, and pay cash down to ourselves." Unable to obtain the +tenancy of a shop, they bought one. They refused to raise the price of +bread. They laughed at advertisements which professed to point out the +fallacies of all co-operation. They succeeded, but the class difference +was widened and clinched--poor man _versus_ tradesman. + +Grannie Pinn, Mrs Meer and Mam Widger were reckoning up the number of +people who have been turned out of their cottages, or are under notice +to quit, for neglecting to deal with their tradesmen landlords. + +Their indignation having found vent, they went on to talk of Virgin +Offwill, who has acquired celebrity by living alone in a cottage on no +one knows what, by sleeping in an armchair before the fire (when she +can afford one), and by never washing. Sometime last month, Virgin sent +for Dr Jacks because, so she said, she was wished [bewitched]; and she +would not let him go until he threatened to report the state of her +house to the medical officer of health. + +[Sidenote: _GOD SAVE--THE DINNER_] + +The tale of Virgin Offwill was capped by another--that of old Mrs +Widworthy. Several years ago (these gossips have long memories) she +received a postal order from her son together with an invitation to +visit him in London. The post arrived after her man had gone to work. +She did not wait; she sent out a neighbour's child to change the order, +packed her few things in a basket, and went off to her son by the +midday train. On the table she left a note: + + "Widworthy, I am gone to London. Your dinner is in the saucepan. I + shall be back directly." + +There was loud laughter in the kitchen; another round of stout and ale; +then silence. The mothers fidgeted, each after her own manner, +meditatively. In all the world, and Seacombe, there seemed nothing to +talk about--or too much. + +"Have 'ee heard ort lately of Ned Corry?" asked Grannie Pinn with a +delightful mixture of gusto and propriety. "Have 'er still got Dina wi' +'en?" + +"Yes, I think." + +"An' his wife tu?" + +Bessie burst into the room. Neither Tony nor Mrs Widger approve of +discussing the intimate humanities before children, so Bessie was +allowed to fling her news to us unchecked. "Mother, Miss Mase says I +can leave school so soon as yu've found me a place. Then I'll hae some +money o' my own earnings, won't I?" + +"Yu'll bring it to me, same as I had to what I earned, an' yu'll stay +on to school till I thinks vitty. You'm not fit for a gen'leman's +house." + +"Yes, I be. I can work. That's what yu'm paid for, ain't it?" + +"How many cups an' saucers have yu smashed this week?" + +"Have they learned 'ee all yu wants to know up to school?" inquired +Grannie Pinn quietly, but with a twinkle at the company. + +"They an't learned me to play the pi-anno. That's what I wants now. If +Dad 'd get one, _I_'d play." + +"Have they learned 'ee to cook a dinner?" + +"Anybody can du thic. I've learned to play _God Save the King_ on the +school pi-anno." + +"How do 'ee start then?" + +"Why, you puts your fingers...." + +"Naw! I means how du 'ee start to cook dinner?" + +"Peuh!" + +"Her an't learned tidiness," said Mam Widger. "Lookse! Her scarf on one +chair, gloves flinged on another, coat slatted on the ground an' her +hat on the dresser--now, since her's come in! Pick 'em up to once, else +thee't hae my hand 'longside o'ee!" + +Bessie scrabbled up her clothes and, making sounds of disgust, went +out. + +"Her'll steady down, I hope," remarked Mrs Widger. "Her's wild, but a +gude maid to try an' help a body, though her makes so much work as her +does." + +"Ay!" said Grannie Pinn grimly. "If work don't steady her, there's +nothing will." + +[Sidenote: _NED CORRY_] + +When Bessie was gone the conversation reverted to Ned Corry and the +ages of his children. I met him last summer--have never ceased hearing +about him, for his sayings are often repeated and his adventures at sea +recounted. He came down here on holiday with his wife, who appeared to +be very happy and was obviously very proud of her Ned. The morning he +went back, he collected all of his old mates he could find, before +breakfast, into a public-house, treated them to whisky until his +pockets were empty, and then borrowed money to return to London. His +personality seems to have left a deeper impression than any other on +Seacombe. He is a man very alive; big, generous and uncontrollable in +all things; so broad that he seems short; great in voice, great in +strength, greatest in laughter. Very dark, and prominent in feature +where his fierce black beard allows any of his face to be seen, he is a +kind of Hebraic Berserker in general appearance, in the uncompromising +force of him and the squat sloppiness of his clothes. Yet his eyes, +almost bedded in hair, have often the bright peeping humorousness of a +shaggy dog's. + +He had the most boats on the beach, and mighty strokes of luck with the +fish; employed more men than anyone before or since; paid them well +when he had the money, and with an irregularity which would have been +tolerated from no other boat-owner. Dina went to lodge at his house. He +made of her, so gossip says, a second wife. He succeeded in running a +household of three; then bought two lodging houses and set a wife to +manage each. "Ned was all right," Tony says, "on'y he didn't know how +to look after hisself--didn't care--nor after his money when he made +it." One evening, Tony found him in his bath in the middle of the +kitchen whilst his womenfolk were cooking him a good hot supper. It was +not his being in his bath which made Tony blush, but the freedom with +which he called, "Come in!" + +When the prudent-minded of Seacombe clamoured to Ned for their money, +he sold up his boats and furniture, went to London, took without +apprenticeship a well-paid job at the docks, and now, as he walks home +along the dockside streets, he is given _Good Night_ from London +Bridge to Tilbury. The exerting of strength seems to have been his +leading impulse; pride in Ned Corry his only check. He was too big for +Seacombe. In London he remains entirely himself--'West-country Ned!' + +Before Ned Corry's affairs were finished with, Tony came into the +kitchen, saying: "I just been talking out there to Skinny Chubb. Nice +quiet chap, he is. His wife _is_ gone." + +"Well, didn't 'ee know that?" + +[Sidenote: _SELF-RESTRAINT_] + +Then I heard a wonderful tale of self-restraint. Chubb is a good +workman, a man of about fifty with grown up boys and girls. His wife +has been no good to him. She used to have men in the house when he was +away. She provided them with grog and food, but there was never +anything for Chubb to eat, except abuse. She won the daughters over to +her side. Sometimes she would go away to London, taking perhaps one of +the girls with her. Only the eldest son, who was not at home, sided +with his father. Neighbours used to hear the couple quarrelling half +the night, but during the whole of their married life he never once +struck or beat her. All he used to tell other people was:--"'Tis a +wonder how a man can stand all her du say to me, day an' night, early +an' late." + +Just before Michaelmas, she decided to leave her husband: to go to +London with a German flunkey. They broke up the home. Chubb packed up +for her the best of the furniture. He wrote out her labels, said +_Good-bye_, paid her cab fare to the station. Now he is living in +lodgings. Rumour has it that the German has left her. In answer to +inquiries, Chubb merely says: "Well, I tell 'ee, _I_ be glad to be out +o'it all at last. _I_'ll never hae her back." + +It is a sound old piece of psychology which distinguishes a man's bark +from his bite. The poor man's bark is appalling; I often used to think +there was murder in the air when I heard some quite ordinary +discussion; there would have been murder in the air had I myself been +worked up to speak so furiously. But, comparatively speaking, he seldom +bites; hardly ever without warning; and he can as a rule stay himself +in the very act. The educated man, on the other hand, does not bark +much; one of the most important parts of his education has been the +teaching him not to do so; but when he does bite, it is blindly, and he +makes his teeth meet if he can. We hear, of course, much more of the +poor man in the police courts, and we imagine (spite of Herbert +Spencer's warning) that education is to diminish his crimes. How very +simple and fallacious! In the first place, the poor, the uneducated or +but slightly educated, greatly out-number the educated. Suppose by +means of complete and trustworthy criminal statistics, we could work +out the _percentage criminality_ of the different classes. I fancy +that the poor man would not then show--even judged by our whimsical +legal and moral standards--a greater percentage criminality than the +educated. And if in our statistics we could include degrees of +provocation to the various crimes, such as hunger, poverty, want of the +money to leave exasperating surroundings--it would probably be found +that the poor are, if anything, less criminally disposed than other +sections of the community; that, though they lack something of the +secondary self-restraint which prevents bark and noise, they are, other +things being equal, actually stronger in that primary self-restraint, +the lack of which leads directly to crime. On _a priori_, historical, +grounds one would anticipate such a conclusion. + +It is certain that they forgive offence more readily. + +I have often wondered how many nice quiet respectable vindictive +murders are yearly done by educated men too clever to be found out. The +poor man is a fool at 'Murder as a Fine Art.' He hacks and bashes. + + +6. + +Sighting, as we thought, some balks of timber, floating away on the ebb +tide over the outside of Broken Rocks, two of us shoved a small boat +down the beach. Our flotsam was a trick of the fading light on the sea, +just where Broken Rocks raised the swell a little; but in the +exquisite, the almost menacing, calm of the evening, we leaned on our +oars and watched for a while. To seaward, the horizon was a peculiar +lowering purple, as if a semi-opaque sheet of glass were placed there. +On land, over the Windgap, the sunset was like many ranks of yellow and +shining black banners--hard, brassy. The sea was a misty blue. One by +one, according to their prominence, the bushes on the face of the +cliffs faded into the general contour. As we landed, a slight lop came +over the water from the dark south-east. "Ah!" said Uncle Jake. "We'm +going to hae it. South-easter's coming!" + +[Sidenote: _CALLED OUT BETIMES_] + +There was some discussion as to whether or not we should haul the boats +up over the sea-wall. In the end we hauled the smaller ones, leaving +the _Cock Robin_ and the drifter upon the beach. + +In the very early morning--it was so dark I could not see the outline +of the window--I half awoke to an indistinct sensation that the house +was rocking and hell unloosed outside. Something solid seemed to be +beating the wall. Than I heard Grandfer's voice roaring at the foot of +the stairs:--"What is it? Why, tell thic Tony he'd better hurry up else +all the boats 'll be washed away. Blowing a hurricane 'tis! Sea's +making. Oughtn't to ha' left they boats...." + +"Be quiet! yu'll wake all the kids up." + +"Blowing a hurricane 'tis! Nort to me if the boats du wash off. Tony'd +never wake." + +"All right, I'll wake him." + +In five minutes we were downstairs, with the fire lighted and the +kettle on. + +Outside, it was pitch dark. There was nothing there, it seemed, except +a savage wind and stinging splotches of rain and the cry of the low +tide on the sand. I felt my way up the Gut and out, sliding one foot +before the other so as not to fall over the sea-wall. John Widger +bumped into me, and together we crept along to the capstan. A white +shadow of surf was just visible. We dropped gingerly off the wall to +the beach, trusting there was no iron gear there to smash our ankles. +Then for an hour we fumbled our way about; pushed, hauled, +disentangled, slid and swore; grasping sometimes the right rope and +sometimes the wrong one with hands almost too cold and stiff, too +painful, to grasp anything at all. + +Out of the blackness came another hurricane squall with rain that +lashed. The rushing air itself shook. We crouched, all humped up, in +the lew of a drifter's bows, whilst the rain water washed around our +boots and coat-tails. "This 'll tell 'ee what 'tis like for us chaps," +said Tony. "I be only sorry," Uncle Jake added, "for them what's out to +sea now in ships wi' rotten gear." + +[Sidenote: _A DISCOLOURED FURY_] + +As the dawn broke thick, the sea rose still further, until it was a +discoloured fury battering the shore. With Uncle Jake I watched some +long planks, four inches in thickness and ten broad, swept off the top +of the beach. We saw them hurtled over Broken Rocks, now dashed against +the cliff, now careering, so to speak, on their hind legs. Such were +their mad capers that we laughed aloud. We were far from wishing to +save them. We rejoiced with them. + +As the day blew on, the wind moderated inshore and the lop gathered +itself together into a heavy swell. And after dark, at half tide, Uncle +Jake and myself worked hard. We dragged the heavy planks from a surf +that seemed ever advancing on us to drive us towards the cliffs, yet +never did, and we propped up the planks against cliffs whose crumbling +drove us constantly down to the sea. There's a winter's firing there. + +We talked--out-howling the noise jerkily--of wrecks and wreckages. Had +we had the chance, we might then conceivably have wrecked a ship. For +there, on the narrow strip of shingle between the wash of the waves and +the unstable cliff, we were primitive men, ready without ruth to wreck +for ourselves the contrivances of civilization. + + +7. + +Tony has received one or two presents this autumn, and now the gales +have put an end to all kinds of fishing, he is beginning to write his +letters of thanks. Or rather, he bothers Mam Widger to write them for +him, and when she has said sufficiently often, "G'out yu mump-head! Du +it yourself!" he sets to work. After long hesitation, pen in hand, and +a laborious commencement, he dashes off a letter, protests that it +ought to be burnt, and sends it to post. He acts, indeed, a comic +version of the groans and travail about which literary men talk so +much. + +[Sidenote: _PRESENTS AND TIPS_] + +Whether he prefers a present or a tip is doubtful, and depends largely +on the amount of money in the house. Presents are more valued; tips +more useful. He feels that 'there didn't ought to be no need of tips'; +knows obscurely that they are one of the effects, and the causes, of +class difference; that they are either a tacit admission that his +labour is underpaid, or else such an expression of good-will as a man +would not presume to give to 'the likes o' himself,' or else an +indirect bribe for some or other undue attention. Usually, however, not +wishing to go into the matter so thoroughly--having come in contact +with outsiders chiefly when they have been on holiday and least +economical--he considers a tip merely as the outflowing of a +gen'leman's abundance. "They can afford it, can't 'em? They lives in +big houses, an' it helps keeps thees yer little lot fed an' booted." + +If, however, he has reason to believe that 'a nice quiet gen'leman' is +really hard-up, then he is very sorry, and will reduce the rate of hire +by so much as half. In such cases, it is well that the gen'leman should +add a small tip, for his niceness' sake. Then is Tony more than paid. + +The gentleman, as such, seems to be losing prestige. Gentility is being +made to share its glory with education, 'Ignorant' is becoming a worse +insult than 'no class.' Grandfer, in argument will think to prove his +case by saying: "Why, a gen'leman told us so t'other day on the Front. +A gen'leman told me, I tell thee!" Grandfer's sons would like the +gen'leman's reasons. In fact the stuff and nonsense that the chatting +gen'leman, feeling himself safe from contradiction, will try to teach a +so-called ignorant fisherman, is most amazing. If he but knew how +shrewdly he is criticised, afterwards.... + +Education even is esteemed not so much for the knowledge it provides, +still less for its wisdom, as for the advantage it gives a man in +practical affairs; the additional money it earns him. "No doubt they +educated people knows a lot what I don't," says Tony, "an' can du a lot +what I can't; but there's lots o' things what I puzzles me old head +over, an' them not the smallest, what they ain't no surer of than I be. +Ay! an' not so sure, for there's many on 'em half mazed wi' too much +o'it." + + +8. + +[Sidenote: _BESSIE_] + +Bessie has finally left school. The excitement, the chatter, the sudden +air of superiority over the other children, the critical glance round +the room when she returns home.... She has learnt next to nothing of +school-work--which matters little, since she is strong, hopeful, and +has a genuine wish to do her best. What does matter is, that she is +careless, inclined to be slatternly, and has no idea of precision +either in speech or work. (Few girls have.) This is in part, no doubt, +mere whelpishness to be grown out of presently. She picks up some piece +of gossip. "Mother! Mrs Long's been taken to hospital. Her's going to +die, I 'spect." + +"No her an't gone to hospital nuther. Dr Bayliss says as her's got to +go if she ain't better to-morrow. Isn't that what you've a-heard now?" + +"Yes--but I thought her'd most likely be gone 'fore this," says Bessie +without, apparently, the least sense of shame, or even of inexactitude. + +The other day she reached down a cup to get herself a drink of water. +Then she took some pains to see if the cup still _looked_ clean, and +finding it did, she replaced it among the other clean ones on the +dresser. + +Her mother sent her out to the larder for some more bread. Bessie +brought in a new loaf. + +"That ain't it," said Mrs Widger. "There's a stale one there." + +"No, there ain't." + +"Yes, there is." + +"I've looked, an't I?" + +"Yu go an' look again, my lady." + +"Well, 'tis dark, an' I an't got no light to see with." + +Protesting vehemently, Bessie found the stale loaf. Were I her +mistress, she would irritate me into a very bad temper, and then, by +her muddle-headed willingness, would make me sorry. She is untrained. +School has in no way disciplined her mind. From early childhood, of +course, she has had to do many odd jobs for her mother, but a woman +with the whole burden of a house on her shoulders, who has never found +the two ends more than just meet, cannot spare time or thought to train +her girls systematically. It is so much easier to do the whole of the +work herself. Bessie's usefulness, such as it is, speaks a deal for her +disposition. After all, how many women in any station of life, have +precision and forethought enough to lay a fire so that it will burn up +at once? Bessie is only thirteen. It is, indeed, her ability for her +age that tempts one to judge her by a standard which elsewhere--except +among women discussing their servants--would only be applied to a girl +of twenty. + +Suppose fathers judged their daughters as mothers judge their +servants.... + +[Sidenote: _GOING INTO SERVICE_] + +For the present, Bessie is in daily service at a lodging-house. For a +'gen'leman's residence,' which would be better for her, she is +over-young and would, besides, need an outfit of dresses, caps and +aprons which she is not yet old enough to take care of, nor will be +until she is ready to fall in love. She can go to Mrs Butler's in a +torn dress and dirty pinafore. She is not expected to appear before the +visitors; only to do the dirty, rough, and heavy work behind the +scenes. It was a condition of her leaving school so young, that she +should go into service and sleep there. Very naturally, Mrs Widger and +Mrs Butler soon arranged that the 'education lady,' when she came to +inspect, should be shown Bessie's bedroom at the lodging-house--and +that Bessie should sleep at home. It was better for all three; for Mrs +Butler who is short of room, for Mrs Widger who wants Bessie's help, +and for Bessie who still requires her mother's authority and oversight. +Educationalists don't seem to understand. + +In return for two shillings a week and her food, Bessie is supposed to +work twelve hours a day, from eight till eight. All she does might +possibly be crammed into three hours a day; that is all she is paid +for. She brings home her supper in a piece of newspaper. One evening +she brought some chicken bones which had been in turn the foundation of +roast chicken, cold chicken, stewed chicken, and soup. Bessie rather +enjoyed them. Another evening, she unwrapped a whole cake. It fell on +the floor, whack! neither bouncing, nor breaking. It was full of dough. +A basin of soup-dregs which she brought home two days ago was found to +contain a length of stewed string. Stewed to rags, it was, like badly +boiled meat. Bessie says that Mrs Butler did miss a bell-rope. + + +9 + +There was a rush and a banging up the passage. The kitchen door burst +violently open. A girl (though she wore long skirts her figure was +unformed and her waist had a stiff youthful curve) ran quickly into the +room. + +Her eager bright-coloured young face--that also not yet fully +formed--was overshadowed by a flapping decorated hat obviously +constructed less for a woman's head--less still for a maiden's--than +for a cash draper's window. Her chest was plastered with a motley +collection of cheap jewellery and lace. Her boots had not been cleaned. + +She dropped her cardboard boxes on the floor. Regardless of her womanly +attire, like nothing so much as a hasty child, she flung her arms round +Tony's neck. + +"Hallo, Dad! How be 'ee? Eh? How's everybody? Lord, I'm hungry. Look +what I got for 'ee. An't forgot nobody this time, though 'tisn't +everybody as remembers me. Look, Dad!" + +"What is it?" asked Tony, looking blankly, as if he could hardly +realise so much clatter. + +"Lookse, Dad! What do 'ee think o'it?" + +A box was torn open. From it came a couple of glass ornaments, and +various sorts of 'coloured rock' and sticky toffee for the children. + +[Sidenote: _BACK FROM SERVICE_] + +It was Tony's eldest daughter, Jenny, come home from service. She +walked round the room picking up things to examine, things to eat, +things that she claimed were hers, and things that she desired given +her. She talked without, so far as I could see, any connection between +the sentences. Mouthfuls of food reduced her babbling shriek to a +burr-burr. + +"Be 'ee glad to see your daughter, Dad?" + +"Iss...." said Tony, looking at her very fondly, but still puzzled. + +"Don't believe yu be. Why didn't 'ee write then if yu loves me so?" + +"Thic's Mam 'Idger's job." + +"G'out!" said Mrs Widger,--"Jenny, you an't see'd our addition, have +'ee." + +I held out my hand. Jenny blushed; then she said: "Good evening, sir"; +then she giggled; and finally she turned her back on me. It took a +minute or two for her happy carelessness to return. + +Domestic servants on holiday, more than any other class of people, +strain one's tact and rouse one's ingrained snobbery. They tend to be +over-respectful--the sort of respectfulness that presupposes +reward,--and to brandish _sirs_, or to be shy and silly, or else +to treat one with a more airy familiarity than the acquaintanceship +warrants. In the matter of manners, they sit between two chairs, the +class they serve has one code; the class they spring from has another, +equally good perhaps, certainly in some respects more delicate, but +different. In imitating the one code, unsuccessfully, they lose their +hold on the other. Their very speech--a mixture of dialect and standard +English with false intonations--betrays them. They are like a man +living abroad, who has lost grip on his native customs, and has +acquired ill the customs of his adopted country. It is not their fault. +Circumstances sin against them. + +Mrs Widger tells me that, when she left her mother's for service, she +felt nothing so keenly as the loneliness, the isolation, of being in a +house where no one could be in any full sense of the word her +confidant, where she was at the beck and call of strangers from the +time she got up till the time she went to bed, where her irregular +hours of leisure were passed quite alone in a kitchen. It seems, as +might be anticipated, that _mental_ comfort or discomfort is at the +bottom of the servant question, and that class differences, class +misunderstandings, are ultimately the cause of it. Often enough the +mistress wishes to be kind, but she fails to understand that what she +values most differs from what is most valued by her servants. Often +enough the servants wish to do their best, but little irritations, +unsalved by sympathy and not to be discussed on terms of equality, lead +to sulky, don't-care moods which exasperate the mistress into positive, +instead of negative, unkindness. So a vicious circle is formed. The +covert enmity between one woman and another simply calls for give and +take where both are of the same class, but when one of them is, for +payment and all day, at the disposal of the other.... How many homes +there are where the menfolk can get anything done willingly, and the +mistress nothing whatever! The girls go out so early. They miss the +rough and tumble of their homes. They have their own little ambitions, +hardly comprehensible to anyone else. Whether or no they desire to be +satisfactory, they do want their own little flutters. + + +10 + +[Sidenote: _LITTLE SERVANT GIRLS_] + +Poor brave small servant girls, earning your living while you are yet +but children! I see your faces at the doors, rosy from the country or +yellowish-white from anæmia and strong tea; see how your young breasts +hardly fill out your clinging bodices, all askew, and how your hips are +not yet grown to support your skirts properly--draggle-tails! I see you +taking the morning's milk from the hearty milkman, or going an errand +in your apron and a coat too small for you, or in your mistress's or +mother's cast-off jacket, out at the seams, puffy-sleeved, years behind +the fashion and awry at the shoulders because it is too big. I see your +floppety hat which you cannot pin down tightly to your hair, because +there isn't enough of it;--your courageous attempts to be prettier than +you are, or else your carelessness from overmuch drudgery; your +coquettish and ugly gestures mixed. + +I picture your life. Are you thinking of your work, or are you dreaming +of the finery you will buy with your month's wages; the ribbons, the +lace, or the lovely grown-up hat? Are you thinking of what he said, and +she said, and you said, you answered, you did? Are you dreaming of +_your_ young man? Are you building queer castles in the air? Are +you lonely in your dingy kitchen? Have you time and leisure to be +lonely? + +I follow you into your kitchen, with its faint odour of burnt grease +(your carelessness) and of cockroaches, and its whiffs from the +scullery sink, and a love-story that scents your life, hidden away in a +drawer. I hear your mistress's bell jingle under the stairs. You must +go to bed, and sleep, and be up early, before it is either light or +warm, to work for her; you must be kept in good condition like a cart +horse or a donkey; you must earn, earn well, your so many silver pounds +a year. + +In mind, I follow you also into your little bedroom under the roof, +with its cracked water-jug that matches neither the basin or the +soap-dish, and its boards with a ragged scrap of carpet on them, and +your tin box in the corner; and the light of the moon or street lamp +coming in at the window and casting shadows on the sloping whitewashed +ceiling; and your guttered candle. What will you try on to-night? A +hat, or a dress, or the two-and-eleven-three-farthing blouse? Shift the +candle. Show yourself to the looking-glass. A poke here and a pull +there--and now put everything away carefully in the box under the bed, +and go to sleep. + +Though I say that I follow you up to your attic, and watch you and see +you go to sleep, you need not blush or giggle or snap. I would not do +you any harm; your eyes would plague me. And besides, I do not entirely +fancy you. You are not fresh. You are boxed up too much. But I trust +that some lusty careless fellow, regardless of consequences, looking +not too far ahead, and following the will of his race--I trust that he +will get hold of you and whirl you heavenwards, and will fill your +being full to the brim; and will kiss you and surround you with +himself, and will make you forget yourself and your mistress and all +the world, the leaves and birds of the Lover's Lane, the shadowy cattle +munching in the field and the footsteps approaching. + +I wish you luck--that your young man may stick to you. It is after all +a glimpse of God I wish you, perhaps your only one. + +You've got a longish time before you. + + +11 + +[Sidenote: _MRS YARTY_] + +Mrs Yarty, up Back Lane, is reduced to that last extremity of poor +women: she is cleaning her cottage and preparing as well as she can 'to +go up over' on credit, without either doctor or midwife--unless she +becomes so ill that someone sends for the parish doctor. She will not +wish that done, and probably when her time comes, some neighbour will +look in to see if she is going on as well as can be expected. Were +Yarty and his wife sufficiently servile to attend church or chapel, +prayer-meetings or revivals, all sorts of amateur parsons, male and +female, would flock round; but in any case, Mrs Yarty has no time for +such goings-on, and if Yarty found anyone sniffing about his house, he +would certainly tell them that it _was_ his house. + +A while ago one of the 'district ladies' came here, to Tony's. We were +a little short with her, and as a last resource, she remarked +superciliously, in a tone of pleasant surprise: "You are really _very_ +clean here." 'Twas an untruth. We are not _very_ clean: we are as +cleanly as is practicable. I should have liked to show her the door. +"'Tis only the way of 'em!" said Mrs Widger. "They'm stupid, but they +means all right." + +[Sidenote: _THE YARTY CHILDREN_] + +Mrs Yarty is not low-spirited at all, and though her voice sounds +rather hysterical, it is merely her manner of speaking, slightly +accentuated perhaps by more trouble than usual. She is fairly well used +to such events by now. Yarty himself is angry. His ordinary habits are +bound to be upset for a few days; for ever, if Mrs Yarty dies. He is +what successful and conceited people call a waster. "There ain't no +harm in him," Tony says. "He wuden't hurt a fly. The only thing is, 'er +don't du much." I have never seen him actually drunk. He keeps very +nearly all his irregular earnings for his own use in a strong locked +box upstairs. His house is a sort of hotel to him, where he expects to +find a bed and food, and it is apparently not his business to inquire +how the food is obtained. If there is none, he makes a fuss, and will +not take for an answer that he has failed to bring the money. Bobby +Yarty, thin, pale, big-eyed, the eldest son but one--a nice intelligent +boy though he swears badly at his mother--is ill of a disease which +only plenty of good food can cure. If, however, food is scarce, it is +first Mrs Yarty who goes short, then the children. Whether they do, or +don't, have as much as a couple of chunks each of bread and dripping, +Yarty must have his stew or fry. The wage-earner has first claim on the +food, and even when the wage-earner does not earn, the custom is still +kept up. It is possible also that Mrs Yarty has still an underlying +affection for her man, a real desire, become instinctive, to feed him. + +She does not say so. Far from it. She says that she is sorry she ever +left a good place to marry Yarty. She would, she declares, go back into +service but for her children. Washing-day, she swears, is her jolliest +time, and she boasts, with what pride is left her, of there being +places at twelve or fourteen shillings a week still open to her. She +did take a place once--was allowed to take her baby with her--but at +the end of a fortnight she arrived home to find that her husband, +impatient for his tea, had thrown all the crockery on the floor. She +saw then that she must be content with things as they are. + +Her present worry is, what will become of the children while she is up +over, and who will feed them? Mam Widger will do her share, I don't +doubt. Very often now she puts aside something for them. There is a +sort of pleasantness in watching them take it: they run off with the +dish or baking tin like very polite and very hungry dogs, and bring it +back faithfully with exceeding great respectfulness towards a household +where there is food to spare. + +Mrs Yarty is one of those people who work better for others than for +themselves. She is no manager. "They says," she remarked the other day, +"as He do take care of the sparrows." She is a sparrow herself; she +grubs up sustenance, rubs along without getting any forwarder, where +others would go under altogether. Years ago she must have been +good-looking. Her patchily grey hair is crisp; she still has a few +pretty gestures. But trouble and too much child-bearing have done next +to their worst with her. Sensible when she grasps a thing, she is often +a bit mazed. She has the figure of an old woman--bent, screwed--and the +toughness of a young one. Her words, spoken pell-mell in a high +strained voice which oscillates between laughter and tears, seem to be +tumbling down a hill one after another. Spite of all her household +difficulties, she retains the usual table of ornaments just inside the +front door. Last summer she reclaimed from the roadway a tiny +triangular garden, about five inches long in the sides, by wedging a +piece of slate between the doorstep and the wall. There she kept three +stunted little wall-flowers--no room for more--which she attended to +every morning after breakfast. Cats destroyed them in the end. She +laughed, as it were gleefully. Her laugh is her own; derisive, +open-mouthed, shapeless, hardly sane--but she has a smile--a smile at +nothing in particular, at her own thoughts--which is singularly sweet +and pathetic. I cannot but think that the spirit which enables her to +live on without despair, to love her little garden and to smile so +sweetly, is better worth than much material comfort. Hers, after all, +is a life that has its fragrance. + + +12 + +[Sidenote: _TONY AS NURSEMAID_] + +Mrs Widger went off after tea to look at Rosie's grave. She likes to go +alone, without the children, and she also likes to stop and have a chat +with someone she knows up on land. In consequence, Tony, taking his +Sunday evening promenade, found the children on the Front just in that +state when they want, and do not wish, to go to bed. They followed him +in. + +"Wer's thic Mam 'Idger?" + +"Don' know!" + +"Her's gone to cementry." + +"Didn' ought to leave 'ee like thees yer." + +"Her's gone to see Rosie." + +Tony felt himself rather helpless. "Now then," he cried with a vain +nourish, "off to bed wi' 'ee!" + +"No!--No!--Shan't!--Us an't had no supper." + +"Wer is yer supper? What be going to hae?" + +"Don' know.--Mam! Mam 'Idger!" + +One started crying, then the other. + +"Casn' thee put 'em to bed thyself?" I asked. + +"I don' know! Better wait.... Her's biding away a long time. I'll hae +to talk to she." + +Tony sat down in the courting chair. The two boys climbed one on each +of his knees. They wriggled themselves comfortable, and fell asleep. He +woke them. "Won' 'ee go to bed now? I wants to go out." + +"No! No!" they cried peevishly. "Wer's thiccy Mam?" + +Their white heads, turned downwards in sleep on either side of Tony's +red weathered face, looked very patient and bud-like. Tony's eyes +twinkled over them with a humorous helplessness, crossed occasionally +by a shade of impatience. So the three of them waited for the +household's source of energy to return. Tony had been wanting a glass +of beer. He nearly slept too. + +Mam Widger said, when she did come, that they were 'all so big a fule +as one another.' "Casn' thee even get thy children off to bed?" she +asked. + +"I can't help o'it," was Tony's reply. + +[Sidenote: _LOSS OF TEMPER_] + +She has taken the household affairs so completely on her shoulders that +he is almost helpless without her. In many ways, and in the better, the +biblical, sense of the word, he is still so childlike that he often +gets done for him what it would be useless for other people who have +little of the child in them, to expect. For the same reason, bullies +choose him out for attack. If I should happen to lose my temper with +him, it is a fault on my part, quickly repented of and quicker +forgiven, but a fault nevertheless. If he, on the other hand, loses his +temper with me, he merely says afterwards: "Ah! I be al'ays like +that--irritable like; I al'ays was an' I al'ays shall be to the end o' +the chapter." He assumes that there was no fault on his part, that his +loss of temper was simply the outcome of the nature of things and of +himself, and consequently that there was nothing to call for +forgiveness. The curious thing is that one feels his view to be right. +One does not _forgive_ children; nor the childlike spirit either. + +Returning from sea one evening, more lazy than tired, he said: "You +wash me face, Mam, an' I'll wash me hands myself." His face was washed +amid shouts of laughter, and I tugged off his boots. We were all quite +pleased. Happy is the man for whom one can do that sort of thing! + +Mrs Widger explained the other day at dinner that for a time after they +were married, Tony used to help a great deal with the housework, until +once, when he was doing something clumsily, she said: "Git 'long out +wi' 'ee, I can du that!" + +"Iss," added Tony, "I used to scrub, and help her wi' the washing (an' +kiss her tu), but I ain't done nort to it since her spoke to me rough, +like that, an' now I be got out the way o'it, an' that's the reason +o'it--thic Mam 'Idger there!" + +"G'out! 'tis thy...." + +"Oh well, I du cuddle 'ee sometimes, when yu'm willing!" + + +13 + +Against the beach the listless sea made a sound like a rattle, very +gently and continuously shaken by a very tired baby. Nothing was doing. +The air was a little too chilly for pleasure boating. Tony had gone to +'put away up over' the after-dinner hour. I lay down to read, and fell +asleep to the meg-meg of Mam Widger's voice chatting in a neighbour's +doorway. + +Two or three small pebbles jumped through the open window. Uncle Jake +was below. When he says, on the Front, that he is going somewhere, he +may set off this week, next week, or never; but when he wakes one +up.... I hastened down. + +[Sidenote: _PRAWNING WITH BOAT-NETS_] + +"Going shrimpin' wi' the boat-nets," he said, flavouring, as it were, a +tit-bit in his mouth. "Must try and earn summut if I bean't going to +feel the pinch o' _thees_ winter." Then he added as if it were an +afterthought: "Be 'ee coming?" + +"When?" + +"Now--so sune as I can get enough bait. I've a-got a beautiful cod's +head towards it. Back about midnight, I daresay." + +"All right." + +"Put some clothes on your back. I'll bring a bottle o'tay--better than +brewers' tack--an' go'n get the boat ready. Take the _Moondaisy_.... Eh?" + +Tony, just downstairs and still rubbing his eyes (when he snoozes he +goes right to bed), asked what was up. "Shrimping wi' Uncle Jake," I +replied. "That'll gie thee a doing!" he said. "Yu ask George. George +used to be Uncle Jake's mate. 'Tis, 'Back oar-for'ard--back wi' +inside--steady--steady--damn yer eyes!' George couldn't put up wi' it. +Jake don' never sleep hisself, and wuden' let he sleep." + +The poor little _Moondaisy_, lying on ways at the water's edge, looked +as if she had a small deckhouse aft. Sixteen boat-nets,[19] with their +lines and corks, were piled up on the stern seats. In the stern-sheets +were two baskets, one of them very smelly, and a newspaper parcel that +reeked. Piled up in the bows were bits of old rope, sacks and bags +(very catty), chips of wood, empty tea-bottles, and all the litter that +collects in a boat used by Uncle Jake. + + [19] Boat-nets are the same in construction as setting-nets (see + p. 192), but upwards of a yard in diameter. Instead of a cord and + stick, they have attached to them four or five fathoms of grass + line. A few small flat oval corks are spliced at short intervals + into the end of the line remote from the net, and at the + extremity is a cork buoy about half as large as a man's head. + +"Where are we going?" I asked. + +"_I_ knows; but if anybody asks yu where we'm going, or where we've +been, don't yu tell 'em. Don't want none o' they treble-X-ers on our +ground. You say like ol' Pussey Pengelly used to: 'Down to Longo.' I +don't hae nobody 'long wi' me what can't keep a quiet tongue.--I can +see some o' they hellers down there now, but they ain't so far west as +we'm going, not by a long way. An' yu wuden' see 'em where they be if +they didn't think 'twas going to be a quiet night with not much pulling +attached to it. But _I_ shuden' be surprised to see a breeze down +easterly 'fore morning. Don't du to get caught down to Longo be an +easterly breeze. Lord, the pulls I've a-had to get home 'fore now!" + +[Sidenote: _THE HIGH-TIDE WAVES_] + +A very old-fashioned figure Uncle Jake looked, standing up in the +stern-sheets and bending rhythmically, sweep and jerk, sweep and jerk, +to his long oar, as if there were wires inside him. His grey +picture-frame beard seems to have the effect of concentrating the +expressiveness of his face, the satiric glint of his eyes, the dry +smile, the straightness of his shaven upper lip, and the kindly +lighting-up of the whole visage when he calls to the sea-gulls and they +answer him back, and he says with the delight of a child, "There! Did +'ee hear thic?" Keeping close along shore in order to avoid the +strength of the flood tide against us, we rode with a perfection of +motion on the heave of the breaking swell. As we were passing over the +inside of Broken Rocks, three waves ran far up the beach. "Did 'ee hear +thic rattle?" Uncle Jake exclaimed. "That was the high-tide wave, then, +whatever the tide-tables say. Yu'll hear the low tide t'night if yu +listens." + +Once I backed the boat ashore for Uncle Jake to go and look at one of +the numerous holes under the cliffs, in every one of which he has +wreckage stored up for firewood against the winter. He can at least +depend on having warmth. When he is nowhere to be found, he is a as a +rule down-shore carrying jetsam into caves. Much of it he gives away +for no other payment than the privilege of talking sarcastically at +those who don't trouble to go and of blazing forth at them when they +do. + +The November sun went down while we rowed, an almost imperceptible +fading of daylight into delicate thin colours and finally into a shiny +grey half-light. More and more the cliffs lowered above us. They lost +their redness except where a glint of the sun burned splendidly upon +them; coloured shadows, as it were, came to life in the high earthern +flanks, lifted themselves off, and floated away into the sunset, until +the land stood against and above the sea, black and naked, crowned with +distorted thorn bushes. Very serene was the sky, but a little hard. +"Wind down east t'morrow," Uncle Jake repeated. We passed Refuge Cove, +over Dog Tooth Ledge, and along Landlock Bay. We tossed over the Brandy +Mull, a great round pit in a reef, where even in calm weather the tide +boils always. No further were there any beaches. The sea washed to the +sheer cliffs through tumbled heaps of rocks. "_'Tis_ an ironbound +shop!" said Uncle Jake. "Poor fellows, that gets wrecked hereabout! I +knows for some copper bolts when they rots out o' the wreck where they +be." + +We had rowed down to Longo on the calm sea; we were on the sea, almost +in it, in so small a boat; and shorewards were the tide-swirls, the +jagged rocks, the high black cliffs. The relation of sea and land was +become reversed for us. The sea was no longer a thirsty menace, an +unknown waste. It was the land, the rocks and the cliffs, which +threatened hungrily. Night-fears, had there been any, would surely have +sprung out from the land. + +[Sidenote: _A COD'S HEAD_] + +We rowed into a bay whose wide-spreading arms were like an amphitheatre +of shadows. + +"Take thees yer oar," said Uncle Jake. "Wer's thic cod's head?" + +Everywhere in the boat, to judge by one's nose. He found it, hacked it, +then beat it with a pebble, and hacked again, and tore. From it came +two awful separate smells--one like that of a dissecting room, the +other like bad crab's inside, or like fearfully perverted cocoa, just +wetted--a sort of granulated stink that stopped one's breath. Beautiful +bait! + +"Now then, while I fixes the bait between the thirts," said Uncle Jake, +"yu paddle westward. Keep 'en straight, else if a bit of a breeze +comes, us'll never find the buoys." While I rowed very slowly, he flung +overboard first a buoy and then its net, a buoy and its net, till he +had hove the whole sixteen with about four boat's lengths between each. +The _plop_ was echoed from the cliff, and as the nets sank the sea-fire +glittered green upon them. He drew on a ragged pair of oilskin +trousers, stationed himself on the starboard side of the stern-sheets, +and grasped the longer tiller. On account of the ebb tide and +consequent lay of the corks, we worked back, in reverse order, +eastwards. It was for me to row the boat up until the bow was just +inside the large buoy. Then Uncle Jake's directions, more or less +abbreviated, came fast one after another: + +_Back outside oar_ (or _Pull inside oar_), to bring the bows round +towards the buoy. + +_Pull both oars_, to bring the boat up to the buoy. + +_Pull outside oar_, to bring the stern of the boat a nice striking +distance from the line between the buoy and the small corks. (Uncle +Jake strikes under and up with the tiller.) + +_Pull both oars_, while he hauls in the loose line. + +_Back both_, to stop the boat's way. + +_Back outside oar_, to keep the line just clear of the gunwale. + +_Stop_, while he hauls very slowly and stealthily at first, lest prawns +and lobsters jump out, then swiftly, raising his arms high above his +head, until the net is aboard. + +So, in single and even half strokes, with variations according to +current and wind, for all the sixteen buoys and nets. Whilst Uncle +Jake, on his part, dropped the prawns into a bag which hung from his +neck, flung the wild-crabs amidships, and the lobsters under the stern +seat, and hove out the net again a few yards from where it was at +first--I, on my part, had to spy the next buoy, a mere rocking blot on +the water, to find out how the line lay from it, and then to hold the +boat steady till he was ready with the tiller. After a time, one became +a little mazed, one's head ached with screwing it round to sight the +buoys, and his directions ceased so long as everything was going right. + +[Sidenote: _MAKING THE ROUNDS_] + +Very wonderful, even exhilarating was the silence and loneliness, the +feeling that ourselves only, of all the world, were in that beautiful +mysterious place. Had I had prayers to say, I should have said them, +sure that some sort of a God was brooding on the waters and suspicious +perhaps, at the back of my mind, that where the black cliffs upreared +themselves, there the devil was. + +After we had hauled and shot again the sixteenth net, Uncle Jake +counted one hundred and seventy odd prawns from his bag into the +basket. "Do 'ee see how whitish they be?" he asked. "They'm al'ays like +that in the dirty water after a gale. Lord, what a battering they poor +things must get when it blows on thees yer coast!" He picked over the +lobsters to see if any were saleable, but found only small +ones--cockroaches--that, as he said, "it don't do to let the bogie-man +[fishery inspector] glimpse.--An' I've a-catched," he added, "more than +five shill'orth o' fine lobsters in one round of the prawn-nets 'fore +they bloody men from the west'ard came up hereabout wi' their pots. Ah, +shrimpin' ain't what 't used to be!" + +We made three more rounds in that bay, then hauled all our nets into +the boat, rowed further west, and shot our nets round a submarine +ledge, the whereabouts of which Uncle Jake knew to a yard. A couple of +rounds there, and we brought up to the buoy of a lobster pot (for the +ebb tide, washing round the headland, kept on hurtling us out to sea), +had our supper, and waited. Prawns take longer to go into the nets +after a second round in the same water. + +A haziness that had been in the sky, strengthened into a lurry of +little cloudlets between us and the stars. "That's where 'tis going to +be," said Uncle Jake. "Easterly! Do 'ee feel this bit of a swell? Us +won't be here to-morrow night.--There! Did 'ee hear that? Eh?" + +Two waves gave forth a peculiar confidential chuckle, long drawn out +and very gentle, very fatigued--as if the sea were making some signal +to us; as if it wished to say that it was tired of ebbing and flowing. +The cliff shadow listened, I thought, immovable and pitiless, but I +fancy that I heard the cry of a bird a quarter of a mile to the +eastward. Sea life wakes up with the flow of the tide. I had forgotten +the gulls and the ravens; had forgotten the existence of all living +things except prawns, lobsters and wild-crabs. No more waves +chuckled.... "That's the low tide waves sure 'nuff--thic chuckle. +There's mostly three on 'em. An' I can al'ays hear the rattle of the +high tide waves tu--iss, even in a gale o' wind. What a rattle they +makes on the beach, to be sure! They fules o' visitors 'ould laugh at +'ee if yu was to tell 'em that--they've a-laughed at me--but 'tis true. +Yu've heard, an't 'ee?" + +The end buoy was troublesome to find. And in the middle of the round, I +rowed up to a shadow thinking to find a buoy, and there close beside +the boat, revealed as the swell sank, was a reef of rock, humped and +covered with seaweed which stood up on end as the water flowed +shallowly over the ledge. It was like a grisly great head, ages old, +immense, and of terrible aspect, heaving itself up through the sea at +us. + +[Sidenote: _UNCLE JAKE'S MATES_] + +With much careful working of the boat, we picked up the middle buoys +from the ledge, and hove them further to sea. Uncle Jake swore at the +reef, at the nets, at himself, at his luck. "_'Tis_ a bloody crib! +Didn't think the tide was going to fall so far. This same happened the +very last time I was down yer wi' old Blimie--old Sublime, us calls +'en. 'Let's get out o' this!' he said. 'Leave the blasted nets an' +let's get out o' it quick!' But I 'ouldn't let 'en, not I--us had three +thousand shrimps thic night; an' he very nearly cried, he did. '_Tis_ +some mates I've had for thees yer job. Most of 'em won't come when they +can pay the brewer any other way. _I'll_ never come out again wi' the +last three on 'em, not if I starves for it. One of 'em went to sleep; +t'other cuden' see the buoys; an' old Blimie was blind and not willing +neither. 'Wer be the cursed things?' he'd say. 'Back!' I'd say. 'Back +oars! You'm on top o' it!' 'Well, I be backing, bain't I?' he'd say, +an' go on pulling jest the same. Then 'er said 'er was ill and wanted +to go home. _He_ won't come no more, not if he starves, an' me too. +I won't hae 'en!" + +A ripple came down from the east. The sound of its _lap-lap-lap_ under +the boat stole on one's ears sleepily, but it roused Uncle Jake to +quick action. "Do 'ee see thees little cockle on the water?" he said. +"Do 'ee feel the life o'it in the boat? Must get out of thees yer, else +we shan't never find the buoys." + +We picked up the buoys--those we had shifted out of line were hard to +find, for the stars were now all hidden by cloud--and a little breeze +followed the ripple from the east. Rowing along under the cliffs, even +inside some of the rocks, through passages that only Uncle Jake is sure +of, we caught the young flood tide. The north-easter, that blew out +freshly from the Seacombe valley, chilled us to the bone. + +Seacombe was asleep. No one was on the Front. We had to carry the nets +up from the water's edge to the seawall before our utmost straining +could drag the _Moondaisy_ up the bank of shingle. For more than an +hour we hauled. + +When at last it was over, I brought Uncle Jake in house and made him a +cup of cocoa. We had been nine hours' rowing. Though he could have done +the same again, without food or rest, he looked a little haggard. It +seemed impossible to believe that the grey old man with disordered hair +and beard, clothed in rags and patches, sipping cocoa in a windsor +chair, was that same alert shadow who had been reckoning up life, so +humorously and wisely, in the darkness under the cliffs. He referred +again to the winter's pinch. It must mean that he has not enough money +put by from summer for the days coming, when even he will not be able +to find some odd job. Yet, as I know very well, when the pinch does +come he will go short and say nothing whatever to anybody. He will be +merely a shade more sarcastic. One of the children may come home saying +that 'thic Uncle Jake an't had half a pound of butter all this week,' +or that he has been in one of his passions with Aunt Jake for taking in +a loaf of bread without paying cash for it. He will bring out a +ha'penny from a little screw of newspaper to buy milk for his cats, and +he will take some crumbs to leave on dry rocks under the cliffs for the +robins that flutter after him there. "Poor things!" he'll say. And to +people he will still be saying what he thinks, fair or foul, gentle or +hard. To understand his sternness and his kindness, it needs to go with +him wrinkling in the sunshine and prawning in the dark. He is become +very like his beloved rocks and cliffs. He is, as one might say, a +voice for them, and his words and deeds are what one would expect their +words and deeds to be, did they not stand there, warm, sunny and +graciously coloured, or dark and stern, fronting the sea immovably, as +Uncle Jake fronts life. "Du _I_ want to die?" he says when asked his +age. "Why, I'd like to live a thousand years!" + + +14 + +[Sidenote: _NARCOTICS AND STIMULANTS_] + +Tony is singularly free from any craving either for narcotics or +stimulants. Most people I know, especially those who do brain work or +live in cities, are satisfied if they can strike a working balance +between the two. Granfer must have his glass of beer regularly, but +neither smokes nor drinks much tea; Uncle Jake snuffs and loves his +tea, but drinks no alcohol whatever; John Widger smokes heavily; and I +have never known Mrs Widger get up in the morning without her cup o' +tay. Tony, on the other hand, smokes, for politeness' sake, an +occasional cigarette when it is offered him, does not hanker after his +tea, and scarcely ever drinks alone. He gets drunk now and then, not +because he greatly wants to, but socially; because, when half-a-dozen +of them are drinking in rounds, 'What can a fellow du?' Even then he +often leaves untouched a glassful that has been ordered for him, though +all the while after his third or fourth glass, he may be asking other +men to 'drink up and hae another.' Drinking with him is an expression +of jollity, not the means of it. + +The Perkinses went at the end of last week into a jerry-built villa up +on land. To escape the brunt of moving in, probably, Perkins took Tony +to a football match at Plymouth. It was not so much that they drank a +great deal, as that they came home, singing, in a very overcrowded and +smoky railway carriage. "I s'pose I got exzited like," Tony says. He +was all right until they got out into the fresh air, and then ... +Perkins brought him in house and laid him along the passage. "Here's +your husband, Mrs Widger." Being rather afraid of Mrs Widger, because +she always speaks her mind, Perkins disappeared quickly. + +[Sidenote: _TONY ON DRINK_] + +_In vino veritas_, no doubt. When Tony is drunk he becomes most +affectionate, and begins 'slatting things about'--not violently or +maliciously, but simply out of joyous devilment and a desire to feel +that he is doing something. Mrs Widger neither wept nor upbraided him. +"Yu silly gert fule!" she said. "Yu silly gert fule! Shut up, or yu'll +wake they chil'ern." + +"Be glad tu see yer Tony?" + +"G'out! Git yer butes off." + +Tony made the chairs skip round the room and thought he'd like to see +the table (with the lamp) upside down. The window curtains annoyed him. +Mrs Widger took steps. + +Luckily, she is not with child, or otherwise delicate, and can +therefore stand a deal of rough and tumble. She pushed him headlong +into a chair and took off his boots. (Those two, there alone, for Under +Town was asleep.) Then she shouldered him upstairs, like a heavy piece +of luggage, and laid him on their bed. Poor Tony was more than leery. +He swam. He moaned. He was sick. He could neither lie down nor get up. +"Sarve thee damn well right!" said Mam Widger. + +"_I_ can't help o'it...." + +"_Yu can't help o'it!_" + +Between three and four in the morning, she went downstairs, relighted +the fire and made him and herself a cup o' tay. After that, not so very +long before daylight, they slept. + +To-day Tony is ill and subdued, if not repentant. He reckons he will do +the same again ("What chap don't, 'cept they mump-headed long-faced +beggars?"), but at present he turns from liquor; he always does for a +day and a half after 'going on the bust.' "Didn' ought never to drink +more'n one glass," he says; "no, n'eet none at all!" Seeing what it +would mean for the family if Tony took to drink, Mrs Widger is, and was +at the time, wonderfully calm and cheerful--how far from reliance in +herself, or from trust in Tony, is not plain. I asked her what she +would do if he became a drunkard and brought no money home. + +"Oh," she said carelessly, "I s'pose I should turn tu and get some work +to du and keep things going somehow." + +"Would you let him have any pocket-money?" + +"Ay, I 'spect I should--enough for his pint." + +There's not a shadow of doubt but she would do both. + + +15 + +Tony has always been a man for the girls; so much so, and so naively, +that whatever he might do would seem quite innocent; as innocent as the +love-play of animals. Along the Front, of an evening, he calls out, +"How be 'ee, my dear?" to any girl he chooses, and perhaps takes her +arm for a few steps. Given half a chance, he snatches a playful kiss. +They never seem to turn rusty with him. He has the primitive quality of +knocking their conventionality to bits at one blow. + +[Sidenote: _FLIRTATIONS_] + +Just before the Perkinses left, he turned out at five in the morning to +see if the high long tide was flowing up to the boats. At six he made +tea and went with it to bed again. When he came downstairs at eight +o'clock (in his pants, darning the seat of his trousers), Mrs Widger +and Mrs Perkins both had breakfasts frying on the fire. Mrs Widger, +very loud-voiced that morning, was packing the children off to school; +Mrs Perkins was bent over the pan, browning sausages. Tony crept up +behind her, seized her by the waist, and kissed her. + +"Oh, you naughty man!" said Mrs Perkins, who was married out of a +drapery establishment and has the drapery style of talking to +perfection. "If my dear hubby knew...." + +"Tell him!" retorted Tony. "I be ready for 'en. I feels lively this +morning. I'll gie 'ee another if yu'll darn thees yer trousers for me. +Thic Mam 'Idger there won't du nort. You wuden' think I'd had two +nights o'it, wude 'ee? I went to bed last night, an' then I got up, +five o'clock, and 'cause there weren't nort doing I went to bed again +an' had an hour or an hour an' a half's more sleep." + +"Oh, you sleepy man!" + +"I didn' want to sleep. I wanted the missis here to cuddle me, on'y her +'ouldn't. Her turned away from me that cold.... I went off to sleep. +An' when I woke up again, thinkin' her'd cuddle me then, her gave me a +kick an' got out bed. I never see'd ort like it. Her ain't what her +used to be, for all her ain't a bad li'l thing, thee's know." + +"G'out!" said Mrs Widger. "I be older--and wiser." + +"Don' know about that. I shall go into Plymouth an' git a nice li'l +girl there.... Oh, I've know'd plenty on 'em. All the li'l girls likes +ol' Tony." + +"I know they do," remarked Mrs Perkins sententiously, while Mrs Widger +laughed rather proudly. + +"Iss; us was to Plymouth once, an' a nice li'l girl wi' a white bow +roun' her neck came up an' spoke to me when I was a-looking into a shop +window, an' her said, 'I lives jest here,' an' I said, 'Do 'ee, my +dear? I'll be 'long in a minute....'" + +"Where was Mrs Widger then?" + +"Oh, her was 'bout ten yards in front." + +"Well?" + +"Iss; if her won't be nice to me when I wants her tu, I shall go into +Plymouth an' find out my li'l girl there...." + +"Garn then, yu fule! I can du wi'out 'ee. I shall hae thic divorce. +Thee's think, I s'pose, as I can't get 'long wi'out 'ee? Thee's much +mistaken!" + +"Well...." + +"Git 'long out wi' 'ee!" repeated Mrs Widger, laughing and very +proudly. "Git 'long out an' let me clear these yer breakfast things." + +"What have yu got for dinner, me dear? Then I'll remain with 'ee an' +not go out at all." + +"G'out!" + +Amid loud laughter, Tony snatched a kiss from both ladies, and pranced +out. + + +16 + +[Sidenote: _MRS WIDGER_] + +"'Tisn't no use to be jealous," Mrs Widger says. "I used to be a bit +taken that way once, but I ain't now, an' 'twuden' make no difference +if I was." Doubtless she is quite right, and she certainly succeeds in +never showing what jealousy she may feel when, for instance, she +catches sight of Tony strolling in through the Gut with his arm half +round another woman's waist, as his playful way is. If Tony speaks of +his first wife she does not, like most second wives, stop talking. If +she hears of a woman unhappily married, she usually dismisses the +affair with a "Well, her shuden't ha' married 'en: her must put up wi' +'en now her's got 'en." The goings-on of unmarried people do not easily +scandalise her. "I reckon," she says, "yu can du as yu like afore yu'm +married, but after that yu'm fixed." She is so confident of the +fastness of the marriage tie (it is, of course, much more indissoluble +for poor people who cannot travel, have no servants, and cannot afford +lawyers for divorce proceedings) that she can afford to give Tony +plenty of rope in small things. Her trust in his faithfulness is +absolute, and justified. She has him; he cannot get along without her; +she knows that. Her attitude is founded on experience and common-sense; +not on some abstract system of morality that never controlled men's +lives, and never will. + +When I used to look upon fishermen as picturesque common objects of the +seashore, I thought their womenfolk rather dreadful. Now, however, the +more I see of this household the more I admire Mrs Widger's management +of it. I know of few other women who could direct it better and with +less friction. Indeed, I am acquainted with no middle-class woman at +all who could direct any of these poor men's households as their own +wives so noisily and so cleverly do. Mrs Widger does not attempt to +gain her own way by sheer force and hardness, not even with the +children; she bends to every current; but she never breaks, and finally +prevails. Like most West-country people, she has more staying power +than visible energy. By going not straight over the hills, like a Roman +road, but round by the valleys and level paths, she arrives at her +journey's end just as quickly and with much less disturbance and +fatigue. She does nothing quite perfectly; neither cooking, mending, +cleaning nor child-rearing; but she does everything as well as is +practicable, as well as is advisable. Tony would often like things a +little better done, but if he had to do them they would be done a +little worse. Some people here greatly pride themselves on keeping +their homes spotlessly clean, and their front doors locked so that no +dirty boot shall soil the oilcloth in the passage. Mrs Widger says that +her house is for living in. Children run in and out of it, laughing and +shouting. + +In some respects, she and Tony remind one of a French bourgeois couple. +He has the sentiment, the expressed ideality, the sensitiveness. He +perceives a great deal, but perceives much of it vaguely. He seldom +makes up his mind--then unalterably. He is like the little man in +Blake's drawing, who stands at the foot of a long ladder reaching up to +the moon, and cries, "I want!" What he wants, he does not precisely +know. Summut or other. Mrs Widger, on the other hand, knows what she +wants very exactly; so exactly that she is content to bide her +opportunity. When they were married, Tony had neither boats nor gear. +He has them now. + +[Sidenote: _A STEADY HEAD_] + +How she keeps a steady head passes my understanding; at breakfast-time, +for example, when the boys are clamouring for their kettle-broth or +loudly demanding fish, or trying to sneak lumps of sugar; and the +girls, nearly late for school, are asking what she wants from the +butcher's or stores; and one or two of them require clean things, or +something darned, or have not washed their faces or combed out their +hair properly; and Tony's and my breakfasts are cooking; and the kettle +is boiling out or over; and Tony is asking her where he has left his +other guernsey, and everybody is talking nineteen to the dozen--and she +wants her own breakfast too. It is at such a moment that she displays +best her most characteristic gesture. + +Most people who work with a will, possess some gesture or movement +which is typical of, and sums up, the major part of their +activities--the gesture that sculptors and painters try to catch. To +lay out on home and family the earnings of a workman who is regularly +paid, calls for skill and care enough on the part of a wife who has no +reserve fund and must make the weekly accounts balance to within a few +ha'pence. But successfully to lay out, and to lay by, the earnings of a +man like Tony, whose family is large and whose money comes in with +extreme irregularity, requires a combination of forethought and +self-control which falls little short of genius. And it has to be done +on a cash basis, for debt would worry Tony out of his wits. The family +purse must necessarily be the centre, and the symbol, of Mrs Widger's +household activities; a matter to which she must give more thought than +to any other one thing. + +"Mabel, I want you to go out for me," she says. "Get me my purse." + +[Sidenote: _CHARACTERISTIC GESTURE_] + +Standing, as a rule, by the dresser, she receives the purse into her +hand, opens it meditatively, looks in, pokes a ringer in, tips the +purse and peers between the coins as they fall apart; takes one or two +out and replaces them as if they fitted into slots. Then with a +wide-armed gesture, curiously commanding and graceful, she hands out to +the child perhaps a ha'penny. "Get me a ha'porth o' new milk, quick!" + +The purse is put away. + +So striking is the little ceremony, so symbolic, so able to stop our +chatter while we look, that we have nicknamed Mam Widger _The Purse +Bearer_. + +That is the name for her--Purse Bearer. + + +17 + +Downstairs in the front room there are two or three photographs of +George, that he himself has sent home since that day he went off to the +Navy. The earliest shows him still boyish, sitting small, as it were, +and a little shy of his new uniform. In the latest, taken not long ago, +nor very long in point of time after the first, he is sitting bolt +upright, chest inflated, arms akimbo with a straight, level, almost +ferocious look in his eyes. He has apparently taken a measure of the +world outside Under Town, and is all the surer of his feet for having +stood up against greater odds and for having walked the slippery plank +of Navy regulations. "If you'm minded to run up against me," he seems +to be saying, "come and try; here I am." The two photographs suggest +the difference between a bird in winter and in the mating season. +George's uniform, in the later photograph, has become his spring +plumage. + +[Sidenote: _GEORGE HOME_] + +When he sent word that he was coming home on leave, I was prepared for +a great change in him, but scarcely for the new George. He used to be +so like a cat on a sunny wall; used to lie along the stern seat of the +_Moondaisy_ so lazy and content that only his ever-watchful eyes +held any expression. He was deeply sunburnt: scraggy in the neck; +strong and lissome, but not very smart. + +He is returned home no less strong and lissome, and exceedingly smart. +The sunburn is gone; indeed there's many a maiden would envy his +complexion; and his long stout neck, with the broadening bands of +muscle, would delight a sculptor. The alert expression, that used to be +more or less limited to his eyes, has spread, so to speak, over all his +face, over the whole of him and into all his movements. He is +organised; unified. In repose now, he would not be simply lazy; he +would be _being lazy_. His features, rather indeterminate of old, have +become curiously refined, almost delicate, almost supercilious (in the +pride of young strength), but not quite either. It is noticeable +generally that an orderly mental existence has great power to +regularise the features, and in so doing, to refine them. Hence perhaps +this refinement of feature in George; for if, in the effort to gain +promotion, he has been putting his heart into his work--the routine +work of his ship and the Naval barracks--it follows that his mental +existence must have been very orderly and regular. But how far the +total change in him is due to Navy discipline, and how far to his +arrival at mating time, one cannot say, neither probably could he. +Among working people nothing so smartens a young man and so quickly +sets him on his own feet as a little traffic with the maidens; +especially when he can't get his own way too easily. George, I gather, +is paying attention to two or three. + +Whereas his toilet used to consist of dragging on trousers, guernsey +and boots, and lacing up the last-named aboard his boat, if at all, it +is now a function delightful to witness as he stumps backwards and +forwards between the kitchen looking-glass and the scullery-sink. What +a washing and spluttering! what a boot-blacking and hair brushing! what +retouches and last glances into the glass! The cap comes off and is +replaced at a jauntier angle, a ribbon is tied again, the lanyard is +put just right, and George goes forth to a war that began before +battleships were thought of. One makes fun of his titivations, and +admires nevertheless. Pride o' life, I have heard it called. Hitching +one's wagon to a star is doubtless good; so is driving one's wagon +along mankind's track. Thank God we have still a deal of the monkey in +us. + +I should like to see how Master George would carry on the land campaign +if he had money to spare. That, however, he has not. The presents he +brought home for the whole family, as is customary, must have cost him +a good deal. He has had, too, a spell in the Naval barracks--which +means spending money on shore amusements instead of putting it by. And +as he has bought some civilian clothes on the instalment system, and +will have that to pay off, he cannot borrow much of his father or +mother. + +Being 'on his own' now, he does not, of course expect a supply of money +from his father, nor on the other hand does Tony try to force his +authority upon George. Whilst he was here, George met a few of his old +chums up in the Town, and about midnight he came home rather drunk. We +were all abed; he had to knock several times; and in the end Tony went +down to let him in. 'Twas a good opportunity for a quarrel that would +have wakened the whole Square. But Tony said nothing then. He saw +George safely to bed, and merely remarked next day in George's hearing, +that "'Tisn't gude to drink tu much if you can help o'it, specially +when yu'm young; besides, it costis tu much." George was very ashamed. + +[Sidenote: _MRS WIDGER'S DIPLOMACY_] + +Mrs Widger it was who had the row over George's spree, but not with +George, and owing to her clever diplomacy it was hardly a row at all. + +Mabel rushed into the house at breakfast-time. + +"Mother, is George come home?" + +"Course he is. What next?" + +"Well, Lottie Rousdon says as he come'd home last night an' yu an' Dad +wuden' let 'en in. Drunk's a handcart, falling about, her says he was." + +"Tis a lie!" began Mrs Widger loudly. Then she appeared to think of +something; her eyes widened, and she spoke quietly. + +"Who told yu thic tale?" + +"Why, May Rousdon jest as I was coming in now. Her stopped me an' asked +if what Lottie'd told her was true." + +"Yu go an' tell Lottie Rousdon that if she has a minute to spare when +she comes home this afternoon to clean herself [Lottie Rousdon is a day +servant], as mother'd like to see her. Don't yu"--this with rising +voice--"don't yu tell anything more'n that or I'll break your neck for +yu." + +Mabel rushed out full of importance. + +"The lying bitch!" remarked Mam Widger. + +Lottie Rousdon walked into the trap. She came in the early evening, +feathers flying, very innocent. She was in a strange house, not in the +Square or among her relatives. Mrs Widger was on her own ground. Both +went into the front room. + +"What for did yu--" we could not help hearing. + +"Oh, I didn't, Mrs Widger; I'm sure I didn't----" + +"Yu did!" + +"Mabel," called Mrs Widger. "Go'n ask May Rousdon to kindly step this +way." + +May Rousdon came. + +"Who told yu what yu told Mabel about George, this morning? Did _yu_ +make it up?" + +"'Twas Lottie told me, Mrs Widger." + +"There! if I didn't think.... Don't yu ever say such a wicked thing +again! Yu don' know what harm...." + +The parlour door was shut fast. A hubbub went on within. After a time, +Lottie, weeping, was led out of the house by her sister. + +"The lying bitch," Mrs Widger repeated. "I've a-give'd it to her. +Making up that tale so pat as if 'twas all true! That's the sort o' +thing they used to put about when Tony and me was first married, but I +fought 'em down, I did, an' I thought 'twas all stopped long ago. They +tried to make out as 'twas me drove George to sea. Nobody can't ever +say I haven't luked after Tony's first wife's children so well as I +have me own--but they _have_ said it, all the same, an' I've up an' +give'd it to 'em 'fore now. Whenever I used to correct the children, +they'd only to run out o' the house an' they cude always find someone +to listen to 'em and say as I was cruel to 'em and God knows what. One +time, when I wasn't very well, I felt I cuden' put up wi' it any +longer. But I did. An' here I be, same's ever. Pretty times us used to +have, I can tell yu, when we was first married an' some of 'em put my +blood up!" + +I understand that she cursed several--literally kicked one or two--out +of the house; but now when anybody is ill, or anything has to be done, +she is the first person to be sent for; and when George said goodbye to +her at the station, he wept. + + +18 + +[Sidenote: _IN THE BAR_] + +I was in the Alexandra bar this evening, drinking bitter ale. Apart +from the new saloon counter, it is an old-fashioned place, full of +wooden partitions and corners and draughts. The incandescent light was +flickering dimly in the draught that the sea-wind drove through the +window and the front door. Seated around the fireplace or against the +painted partitions, and standing about in groups, were fishermen in +guernseys, ex-fishermen, some bluejackets, and some solid-looking men +who were pensioners or sailors in mufti. A couple of repulsive +lodging-house keepers (they eat too much that falls from the lodgers' +tables) were talking local politics with a foxy-faced young tradesman +of the semi-professional sort. The barman, who had had enough to drink, +was thumb-fingered, loud-voiced, hastily slow. Sometimes the sound of a +heavier wave than usual broke through the buzz of conversation, and +sometimes, when the conversation dropped, wave after wave could be +heard sweeping the shingle along the beach. + +A party of vagrant minstrels came to the front-door steps. They played +a comic song, and the voices within rose in defiance of the music, so +that when it stopped suddenly, they were surprised into silence. + +Up through that silence welled the opening notes of Schubert's +_Serenade_. Nobody spoke. The barman took up a glass cheerily. "My +doctor ordered me to take a little when I feel I need it," he said; and +was _hushed_ down. Some edged towards the door, others sat back with +faces and pipes tilted up, and others gazed down at the floor. A +memory-struck, far-away look came into their eyes. Only the barman with +his glass, and the tradesman in his smart suit, seemed wholly +themselves. + +The _Serenade_ ceased. None spoke. The light gave a great flicker. +"What the bloody hell!" exclaimed John Widger. The day-dreamers awoke, +as if from a light sleep. An everyday look came quickly into their eyes +and each one shifted in his seat. Some even shook themselves like dogs. +A joke was made about the woman who came in to collect pence, and the +conversation rose till nothing of the sea's noise could be heard. + +I realised with a shock that in four days I shall not be here, and when +I left the bar, I forgot entirely to say _Good-night_. + +[Sidenote: _A GLIMPSE_] + +It was as if, for the moment, we had all been very intimate; as if we +had all gone an adventure together and had peeped over the edge of the +world. + + + + +VIII + + + SALISBURY, + _January_. + + +1 + +[Sidenote: _CONTRASTS_] + +Chilliness--a social and emotional chilliness that can with difficulty +be defined or nailed down to any cause--is, above and below all, what +one feels on returning from a poor man's house into middle-class +surroundings. It is not unlike that chill with which certain forms of +metropolitan hospitality strike a countryman. He meets a London friend, +a former fellow-townsman, perhaps, who has migrated to London and whom +he has not seen for a year or two. "Glad to see you," says the +Londoner. "You must call on my wife before you go back. Her day is +Wednesday." Or, "You must come to dinner one evening. When are you +free? Next Tuesday? or Friday?" If the hospitality had begun forthwith, +and the countryman had been haled off, country fashion, to the very +next pot-luck meal, he would have had a pleasant adventure. It would +have been like old times. The former glow of friendship would have more +than revived. But the calculated invitation for a future date, the idea +that the countryman will like to call for a twenty minutes' chat on +generalities and a couple of cups of bad afternoon tea.... Though he +may understand that a multiplicity of engagements in London renders +this sort of thing convenient, he none the less feels a chill when it +is applied to himself, and usually cares little whether he go or not. +He becomes conscious of the desire to save trouble, which is at the +bottom of such calculations. Had the Londoner revisited the country, he +would have found old friends ready to upset all their arrangements for +the sake of entertaining him. The London hospitality is the 'better +done,' but country hospitality is warmer. Middle-class life runs +smoother than the poor man's, it is more arranged and in many ways +'better done,' and it is chillier precisely because, for smooth +running, the warmer human impulses, both good and bad, must be +repressed. 'Something with a little love and a little murder' in it, +was what the illiterate old woman wanted to learn to read. It is what +we all want in our hearts, much more than smooth running and +impenetrable uniform politeness. + +Down at Seacombe we warm our hands, so to speak, at the fire of life; +hunger lurks outside, and the fire is dusty and needs looking after; +but it glows, and we sit together round it. Here at Salisbury, +throughout the social house, we have an installation of hot-water +pipes; they may be hygienic (which is doubtful), and they are little +trouble to keep going; but they don't glow. Give me the warmth that +glows, and let me get near the heart of it. + +Voices are often raised in Under Town and quarrels are not infrequent, +but the underlying affections are seldom doubted, and when they do rise +to the surface, there they are, visible, unashamed. 'Each for himself, +and devil take the hindmost,' is more admired in theory than followed +in practice. 'Each for himself and the Almighty for us all,' is Tony's +way of putting it. The difference lies there. + +My acquaintances here are well off for the necessities of life. No one +is likely to starve next week. Nevertheless, they are full of worry, +and by restraining their expressions of worry so as not to become +intolerable to the other worriers, they make themselves the more lonely +and increase their panic of mind. They are afraid of life. + +At Seacombe, though there were not a fortnight's money in the house, we +lived merrily on what we had. In Tony's "Summut 'll sure to turn up if +yu be ready an' tries to oblige" there is more than philosophy; there +is race tradition, the experience of generations. The Fates are +treacherous; therefore, of course, they like to be trusted, and the +gifts they reserve for those that trust them are retrospective. + +[Sidenote: _INSTANCES_] + +All of us at Tony's wanted many things--a pension, enough to live on, +work, a piano, or only 'jam zide plaate'--God knows what we didn't +want! But the things that men haven't, and want, unite them more than +those they have. _I want_ is life's steam-gauge; the measure of its +energy. It is the ground-bass of love, however transcendentalised, and +whether it give birth to children or ideas. _I have_ is stagnant. And +_I am afraid_ is the beginning of decay. + +It is still _I want_, rather than _I am afraid_, that spurs the poor +man on. + + +2 + +For his first marriage and towards setting up house, Tony succeeded in +saving twenty shillings. He gave it to his mother in gold to keep +safely for him, and the day before the wedding, he asked for it. "Yu +knows we an't got no bloody sovereigns," said his father. It had all +been spent in food and clothes for the younger children. So Tony went +to sea that night and earned five shillings. A shilling of that too he +gave to his mother; then started off on foot for the village where his +girl was living and awaiting him. She had a little saved up: he knew +that, though he feared it might have gone like his. They were married, +however; they fed, rejoiced, and joked; and 'for to du the thing proper +like,' they hired a trap to drive them home. With what money was left +they embarked on married life, and their children made no unreasonable +delay about coming. "Aye!" says Tony, "I'd du the same again--though +'twas hard times often." + +Before I left Seacombe I asked a fisherman's wife, who was expecting +her sixth or seventh child, whether she had enough money in hand to go +through with it all; for I knew that her husband was unlikely to earn +anything just then. "I have," she said, "an' p'raps I an't. It all +depends. If everything goes all right, I've got enough to last out, but +if I be so ill as I was wi' the last one, what us lost, then I an't. +Howsbe-ever, I don't want nort now. Us'll see how it turns out." She +went on setting her house in order, preparing baby linen and making +ready to 'go up over,' with perfect courage and tranquillity. When one +thinks of the average educated woman's fear of childbed, although she +can have doctors, nurses, anæsthetics and every other alleviation, the +contrast is very great, more especially as the fisherman's wife had +good reason to anticipate much pain and danger, in addition to the +possibility of her money giving out. + +Those are not extraordinary instances, chosen to show how courageous +people can be sometimes; on the contrary, they are quite ordinary +illustrations of a general attitude among the poor towards life. To +express it in terms of a theory which in one form or another is +accepted by nearly all thinkers--the poor have not only the _Will to +Live_, they have the _Courage to Live_. + +[Sidenote: _THE COURAGE TO LIVE_] + +On the whole, they possess the _Courage to Live_ much more than any +other class. And they need it much more. The industrious middle-class +man, the commercial or professional man, works with a reasonable +expectation of ending his days in comfort. He would hardly work +without. But the poor man's reasonable expectation is the workhouse, or +some almost equally galling kind of dependency. The former may count +himself very unlucky if after a life of work he comes to destitution; +the latter is lucky if he escapes it. Yet the poor man works on, and is +of at least as good cheer as the other one. If he can rub along, he is +even happy. He is, I think, the happier of the two. + +The more intimately one lives among the poor, the more one admires +their amazing talent for happiness in spite of privation, and their +magnificent courage in the face of uncertainty; and the more also one +sees that these qualities have been called into being, or kept alive, +by uncertainty and thriftlessness. Thrift, indeed, may easily be an +evil rather than good. From a middle-class standpoint, it is an +admirable virtue to recommend to the poor. It helps to keep them off +the rates. But for its proper exercise, thrift requires a special +training and tradition. And from the standpoint of the essential, as +opposed to the material, welfare of the poor, it can easily be +over-valued. Extreme thrift, like extreme cleanliness, has often a +singularly dehumanising effect. It hardens the nature of its votaries, +just as gaining what they have not earned most frequently makes men +flabby. Thrift, as highly recommended, leads the poor man into the +spiritual squalor of the lower middle-class. It is all right as a means +of living, but lamentable as an end of life. If a penny saved is a +penny earned, then a penny earned by work is worth twopence. + +_The Courage to Live_ is the blossom of the _Will to Live_--a flower +far less readily grown than withered. It might be argued that since +apprehensiveness implies foresight, the poor man's _Courage to Live_ +is simply his lack of forethought. In part, no doubt, it is that. But +he does think, slowly and tenaciously, as a cuttlefish grips. He +foresees pretty plainly the workhouse; and he has the courage to face +its probability, and to go ahead nevertheless. His reading of life is +in some ways very broad, his foothold very firm; for it is founded +closely on actual experience of the primary realities. He looks +backwards as well as forwards; his fondness and memory for anecdote is +evidence of how he dwells on the past; instead of comparing an +occurrence with something in a book, he recalls a similar thing that +happened to So-and-so, so many years ago, you mind.... He knows vaguely +(and it is our vaguer knowledge which shapes our lives) that only by a +succession of miracles a long series of hair's-breadth escapes and +lucky chances, does he stand at any moment where he is; and he doesn't +see why miracles should suddenly come to an end. Hence his active +fatalism, as opposed to the passive Eastern variety. In Tony's opinion, +"'Tis better to be lucky than rich." I have never heard him say that +fortune favours the brave. He assumes it. + + +3 + +[Sidenote: _INTELLECTUAL TYRANNIES_] + +As one grows more democratic in feeling, as one's faith in the people +receives shock after shock, yet on the whole brightens--so does one's +mistrust of the so-called democratic programmes increase. One becomes +at once more dissatisfied and less, more reckless and much more +cautious. One sees so plainly that the three or four political parties +by no means exhaust the political possibilities. The poor, though +indeed they have the franchise, remain little more than pawns in the +political game. They have to vote for somebody, and nobody is prepared +to allow them much without a full return in money or domination. They +pay in practice for what theoretically is only their due. Justice for +them is mainly bills of costs. The political fight lies still between +their masters and would-be masters; not so much now, perhaps, between +different factions of property-owners as between the property-owners +and the intellectuals. Out of the frying-pan into the fire seems the +likely course; for the intellectuals, if they have the chance, enslave +the whole man; they are logical and ruthless. The worst tyrannies have +been priestly tyrannies, whether of Christians, Brahmins or negro +witch-doctors; and those priests were the intellectuals of their time. +I wonder when we shall have a party of intellectuals content to find +out the people's ideals and to serve them faithfully, instead of trying +to foist their own ideals upon the people. + +Law-makers, however, will probably continue to work for the supposed +benefit of the people rather than on the people's behalf; and equally, +the supposed welfare of the people will continue to be the handiest +political weapon; for the property-owning, articulate classes are +better able to prevent themselves being played with. To those two facts +one's political principles must be adjusted. The articulate classes, +moreover, are actually so little acquainted with the inner life of the +poor that there is no groundwork of general knowledge upon which to +base conclusions, and it is impossible to do more than speak from one's +own personal experience. I don't mind confessing that, though I should +prefer justice all round, yet, if injustice is to be done--as done it +must be no doubt--I had rather the poor were not the sufferers. There +is no reason to believe that present conditions cannot be bettered--to +believe, with Dr Pangloss, _que tout est au mieux dans ce meilleur +des mondes possibles_. I have found that to grow acquainted with the +class that is the chief object of social legislation is to see more +plainly the room for improvement, and also to see how much better, how +much sounder, that class is than it appeared to be from the outside: +how much might be gained, of material advantage especially, and at the +same time how much there is to be lost of those qualities of character +which have been acquired through long training and by infinite +sacrifice. To learn to care for the poor, for their own sake, is to +fear for them nothing so much as slap-dash, short-sighted social +legislation. + +[Sidenote: _THE WILL TO LIVE_] + +The man matters more than his circumstances. The poor man's _Courage to +Live_ is his most valuable distinctive quality. Most of his finest +virtues spring therefrom. Any material progress which tends to diminish +his _Courage to Live_, or to reduce it to mere _Will to Live_, must +prove in the long run to his and to the nation's disadvantage. And the +_Courage to Live_, like other virtues, diminishes with lack of +exercise. Therefore every material advance should provide for the +continued, for an even greater, exercise and need of the _Courage to +Live_. If not, then the material advance is best done without. + +That is the main constructive conclusion to be drawn. Somewhat akin to +it is another conclusion of a more critical nature. + +In Nietzsche's _Beyond Good and Evil_ there is an apophthegm to the +effect that, "Insanity in individuals is something rare--but in groups, +parties, nations, and epochs it is the rule." And whilst, on the one +hand mental specialists have been extending the boundaries of insanity +to the point of justifying the popular adage that everyone is a bit +mad, they have, on the other hand, tended to narrow down the difference +between sanity and its reverse until it has become almost entirely a +question of mental inhibition, or self-control. + + The highest aim of Mental Hygiene should be to increase the power + of mental inhibition amongst all men and women. Control is the + basis of all law and the cement of every social system among men + and women, without which it would go to pieces.... _Sufficient + power of self-control should be the essence and test of + sanity._[20] + + [20] "The Hygiene of Mind," by T. S. Clouston, M.D., + F.R.S.E., (London, 1906). Without an extension which Dr + Clouston provides, though not in so many words, the + definition I have italicized is psychologically a little + superficial. Mental inhibition, generally, needs dividing + into self-control and, say, auto-control. Where one man may + _self-control_ himself by an effort of will, another man, + in the same predicament, might _auto-control_ himself + instinctively, without a conscious effort of will. Which is + the saner, and likelier to remain so, under ordinary + circumstances and under extraordinary circumstances, would be + most difficult to determine. Many people are only sane in + action because they know that they are insane in impulse, and + take measures accordingly. They keep a sane front to the + world by legislating pretty sternly for themselves. + +[Sidenote: _SOCIAL HYGIENE_] + +It is too gratuitously assumed by law-makers (_i.e._ agitators for +legislation as well as legislators) that the poor man is woefully +deficient in inhibition and must be legislated for at every turn. +Because, for instance, he furnishes the police courts with the +majority of 'drunks and disorderlies,' he is treated as a born +drunkard, to be sedulously protected against himself, regardless of +such facts as (1) there is more of him to get drunk, (2) he prefers +'going on the bust' to the more insidious dram-drinking and drugging, +(3) he has more cause to get drunk, (4) he gets drunk publicly, (5) +tied-house beer and cheap liquors stimulate to disorderliness more +than good liquor. The truth is that the poor have a great deal of +self-restraint, quite as much probably as their law-makers; but it is +exercised in different directions and, possibly, is somewhat frittered +away in small occasions. The poor man has so much more bark than bite. +He fails to restrain his cuss-words for example--but then cuss-words +were invented to impress fools. There is much in his life that would +madden his law-makers, and _vice versa_. If control is the cement of +every social system and if it is the highest aim of mental hygiene, it +follows that control should be the highest aim of legislation and +custom, which together make up social hygiene. And--always remembering +that control is of all virtues the one which strengthens with use and +withers with disuse--every piece of new legislation should be most +carefully examined as to its probable effect on the self-control of +the people. Control, in short should be the paramount criterion of new +legislation. A proximate advantage, unless it be a matter of life and +death, is too dearly purchased by an ultimate diminution of +self-control. + + +4 + +Since the Industrial Revolution and rise of the press, the middle-class +has become more and more the real law-maker. The poor have voted +legislators into power; the upper class in the main has formally made +the laws; but the engineering of legislation has been, and is, the work +of the middle class. And the amusing and pathetic thing is that the +middle class has used its power to try to make other classes like +itself. That it has succeeded so badly is largely due to the fact that +the poor man is not simply an undeveloped middle-class man. The +children at Seacombe showed true childish penetration in treating a +_gentry-boy_ as an animal of another species: the poor and the middle +class are different in kind as well as in degree. (More different +perhaps than the poor and the aristocrat). Their civilizations are not +two stages of the same civilization, but two civilizations, two +traditions, which have grown up concurrently, though not of course +without considerable intermingling. To turn a typical poor man into a +typical middle-class man is not only to develop him in some respects, +and do the opposite in others; it is radically to alter him. The +civilization of the poor may be more backward materially, but it +contains the nucleus of a finer civilization than that of the middle +class. + +[Sidenote: _TWO CIVILIZATIONS_] + +The two classes possess widely dissimilar outlooks. Their morale is +different. Their ethics are different.[21] Middle class people +frequently make a huge unnecessary outcry, and demand instant +unnecessary legislation because they find among the poor conditions +which would be intolerable to themselves but are by no means so to the +poor. And again, the benevolent frequently accuse the poor of great +ingratitude because, at some expense probably, they have pressed upon +the poor what they themselves would like, but what the poor neither +want nor are thankful for. The educated can sometimes enter fully, and +even reasonably, into the sorrows of the uneducated, but it is seldom +indeed that they can enter into their joys and consolations. + + [21] "The more one sees of the poor in their own homes, the more + one becomes convinced that their ethical views, taken as a whole, + can be more justly described as different from those of the upper + classes than as better or worse." ("The Next Street but One." By + M. Loane. London, 1907.) + +Broadly speaking, the middle-class is distinguished by the utilitarian +virtues; the virtues, that is, which are means to an end; the +profitable, discreet, expedient virtues: whereas the poor prefer what +Maeterlinck calls 'the great useless virtues'--useless because they +bring no apparent immediate profit, and great because by faith or +deeply-rooted instinct we still believe them of more account than all +the utilitarian virtues put together.[22] + + [22] "When one begins to know the poor intimately, visiting the + same houses time after time, and throughout periods of as long as + eight or ten years, one becomes gradually convinced that in the + real essentials of morality, they are, as a whole, far more + advanced than is generally believed, but they range the list of + virtues in a different order from that commonly adopted by the + more educated classes. Generosity ranks far before justice, + sympathy before truth, love before chastity, a pliant and + obliging disposition before a rigidly honest one. In brief, the + less admixture of intellect required for the practice of any + virtue, the higher it stands in popular estimation." ("From their + Point of View." By M. Loane. London, 1908.) + + It is difficult to see on what grounds Miss Loane implies--if she + does mean to imply--that the poor would do well to exchange their + own order of the virtues for the other order. Christianity + certainly affords no such grounds, nor does any other philosophy + or religion, except utilitarianism perhaps. + +The poor, one comes to believe firmly, if not interfered with by those +who happen to be in power, are quite capable of fighting out their own +salvation. A clear ring is what they want--the opportunity for their +'something in them tending to good' to develop on its own lines. (When +I say 'a clear ring' I do not mean that one side should have seconds +and towels provided and that the other side should be left with +neither.) That their culture, so developed, will be different from our +present middle-class culture, is certain; that it will be superior is +probable. The middle class is in decay, for its reproductive instincts +are losing their effective intensity, and it is afraid of having +children; its culture, that it grafted on the old aristocratic stem, +must decay with it. When the culture derived from the lower classes is +ready to be grafted in its turn upon the old stem it is possible that +mankind's progress will go backwards a little to find its footing, and +will then take one of its great jumps forward. + + +5 + +[Sidenote: _THE SOCIO-POLITICAL PROBLEM_] + +The socio-political problem turns out, on ultimate analysis, to be a +wide restatement of the old theological Problem of Pain. Suffering does +not necessarily make a fine character, but the characters that we +recognise as fine could not, apparently, have been so without +suffering. It is possible to say, "I have suffered, and though I am +scarred and seared, yet I know that on the whole I am the better for +that suffering. I do not now wish that I had not had that suffering. I +even desire that those I love shall suffer so much as they can bear, +that their conquest may be the greater, their joys the fuller, and +their life the more intense." Nevertheless, the very next moment, the +same man will try by every means possible to avoid suffering for +himself and for those he loves. That is the dualism which dogs humanity +in the mass no less than in the individual. That lies at the core of +domestic politics. But it may be that the part of our nature which +finds reason to be grateful for past suffering is higher than that part +which seeks to avoid it in the future. + +Waste of the benefits of suffering is waste indeed. + + + + +IX + + + SEACOMBE, + _December_. + + +1 + +We hired a drosky--one of the little light landaus that they use with a +single horse in this hilly district--and thus we came down from the +station. On the box were the coachman (grinning), a cabin trunk, a +portmanteau, a gaping gladstone bag, and a rug packed with sweaters and +boots. On the front seat, a large parcel of books, a typewriter, a +dispatch case, a grubby moon-faced little friend of Tommy's, Tommy +himself, and Jimmy. On the back seat, Straighty, Dane and myself. The +small boy stood up on the seat, and Dane squatting on his haunches, +overtopped us all. + +Down the hill we drove, swerving, wobbling, laughing--a May party in +leafless winter. Dane, in his efforts to lick the children's faces, +tumbled off his perch. We helped him back to his seat amid a chorus of +happy screams. The grubby boy was just too astonished to cry, just too +proud of travelling in a carriage. He screwed up his face--and +unscrewed it again. Every now and then Tommy sat back as far as he +could from the disorder, the collection of jerking arms and legs, in +order to adjust the Plymouth spectacles, of which he is so proud, on +his small pug nose. As we passed the cross-roads, Straighty was trying +to snatch a kiss. While we drove along the Front, the children waved +their hands over the sides of the drosky, and shouted with delight. +'Twas a Bacchanal with laughter for wine. The Square turned out to +witness our arrival. "Her's come!" the kiddies cried. Dane leapt out +first, found a rabbit's head and bolted it whole. The rest of us +scrambled out. The luggage was piled up in the passage. Hastening in +his stockinged feet (he had been putting away an hour) to say that he +was on the point of coming up to station, Tony bruised a toe and barked +a shin. But it was no time to be savage. I wonder where else the two +shillings I paid for the drosky would have purchased so much delight. +Or rather, the delight was in ourselves, in the children; the two +shillings served only to unlock it. + +[Sidenote: _CHILDREN_] + +What precisely there is of difference between these children and those +of the middle and upper classes has always puzzled me. That there is a +difference I feel certain. A few years ago, when I had so much to do +with the boys and girls of a high school, they liked me pretty well, I +think, and trusted me, but they did not take to me, nor I very greatly +to them. They went about their business, and I about mine. If I invited +them for a walk, they came gladly, not because it was a walk with me, +but because I knew of interesting muddy places, and where to find +strange things. Their manners to me were always good: good manners +smoothed our intercourse. But in no sense were our lives interwoven. We +were side-shows, the one to the other. I was content that it should be +so, and they were too. + +Here, on the other hand, my difficulty is to get rid of the children +when I wish to go out by myself. They follow me out to the Front, and +meet me there when I return, running towards me with shouting and arms +upraised, tumbling over their own toes, and taking me home as if I were +a huge pet dog of theirs. "Where be yu going?" they ask, and, "Where yu +been?" Jimmy regards me as a fixture. "When yu goes away for two or +dree days," he says, "I'll write to 'ee, like Dad du." I cross the +Square, and some child, lolling over the board across a doorway, laughs +to me shrilly and waves its arms. If by taking thought, I could send +such a glow to the hearts of those I love, as that child, without +thinking, sends to mine.... But I cannot. I can only wave a hand back +to the child, and be thankful and full-hearted. Often enough I wish I +could have a piano and find out whether my fingers will still play +Chopin, Beethoven, and Bach; often I hanker after a sight of a certain +picture or a certain statue in the Louvre or Luxembourg, for a concert, +a theatre, a right-down good argument on some intellectual point, or +for the books I want to read and never shall. Yet, all in all, I am +never sorry for long. This children's babble and laughter, these +simple, commonplace, wonderful affections, are a hundred times worth +everything I miss. + +It is not that I buy the children bananas or give them an infrequent +ha'penny. When bananas and ha'pence are scarce, their love is no less. +It is not that I am always good-tempered and jolly. Sometimes I snap +unmercifully, so that they look at me with scared, inquiring eyes. It +is not that they are always well-behaved. Frequently they are very +naughty indeed. The causes of our sympathy lie deeper. + +They are more naïve than the children who are in process of being +well-educated; more independent and also more dependent. They feel more +keenly any separation from those they love; they cry lustily if their +mother disappears only for an hour or two; and nevertheless they can +fend for themselves out and about as children more carefully nurtured +could never do. Less able to travel by themselves, they do travel +alone, and in the end quite as successfully. They make more mistakes +and retrieve them better. Affection with them more rapidly and frankly +translates itself into action. They laugh quickly, cry quickly, swear +quickly. "Yu'm a fule!" they rap out without a moment's hesitation; and +I suppose I am, else they wouldn't want to say so. Perhaps I overvalue +the physical manifestations of love, but if a child will take my hand, +or climb upon my knee, or kiss me unawares, then to certainty of its +affection is added a greater contentment and a deeper faith. The peace +of a child that sleeps upon one's shoulder, is given also to oneself. +The appurtenances of love mean much to me; nearness, warmth, caresses. +But I cannot make the advances; I was bred in a different school where, +though frankness was encouraged, _naïveté_ was repressed; and I am the +more grateful to these children for taking me in hand--for being able +to do so. + +[Sidenote: _MANNERS_] + +Tommy has returned from the Plymouth Eye Infirmary much quietened down +in many respects and, as most people would say, much better mannered. +He is neater and a better listener to conversation. He puts his shoes +under the table, does not throw them. But he has brought back also some +of the nurses' exclamations of surprise--"Oh, I say!" "Not I!" "You +don't say so!" "What idiocy!" and the like. No doubt those expressions +sounded quite proper among the nurses, but on Tommy's lips they seem +curiously more vulgar than his natural and rougher expletives. It is, +besides, as if one were eavesdropping outside the nurses' common room. + +Much of the charm of these children, and of the grown-ups too, lies in +the fact that, apart from a few points on which etiquette is very +strict, they have no manners. I don't mean that they are bad-mannered; +quite the contrary; what I mean is that their manners are not codified. +Having no rules for behaviour under various circumstances, they must on +each occasion act according to their kindliness and desire to please, +or the reverse. They must go back to the first principles of manners. +What they are, that they appear. What they feel at the moment, that +they show. The kind man or child is kindly; the brutal or spiteful by +nature are brutal or spiteful in manner. Elsewhere, among people of +breeding, manners make the man--and hide him. Here, the man makes his +own manners, and in so doing still further reveals himself. + +I have known a professional man who was rather well-spoken of for his +good manners, fail lamentably so soon as he found himself in +surroundings not his own. His code of manners did not apply there, and +outside his code he had no manners. He was excessively rude. He showed +at once that his customary good manners were founded on rules well +learnt, and not on any real consideration for other people's feelings. +The incredible impertinence of clergymen and district visitors +furnishes plenty of cases in point. Their manners, no doubt, are pretty +good among themselves. Yet it is a common saying here, "What chake they +gentry've got!" A 'district lady' entered Mrs Stidson's cottage without +knock or warning, just when Mrs Stidson was cleaning up and wanted no +visitors of any sort. "What's the matter with your eye?" asked the +district lady. Mrs Stidson refused to answer. ("Untidy, intractable +woman!") But a neighbour upspoke and said, "Tis her husband, mam, as +have give'd her a black eye." At which the district lady exclaimed, "My +good woman, why don't you leave him. You _ought_ to leave him--at +once!" Mrs Stidson has a number of young children. + +[Sidenote: _TONY'S FOOT IN IT_] + +It might have been expected, on the other hand, when Tony and myself +went on holiday up-country, stayed at a largish much-upholstered hotel, +and dined out several times as he had never done before, that he would +have been like a fish out of water, very awkward, and would have +committed a number of bad _faux pas_. Nothing of the sort. He was +nervous, certainly, and the numerous knives, forks and glasses somewhat +confused him at first. But Tony's good manners are not codified. He is +sensitive, kindly, desirous of pleasing, quick to observe. On that +basis, he invented for himself, according to the occasion, the manners +he had not been taught. At the same time he remained himself. And he +was a complete success. Nobody had any reason to blush on Tony's +behalf. Except once; when he remarked to some ladies after dinner that +he found Londoners very nice and free-like; that a pretty young lady +had stopped him in the Strand the evening before, and had called him +Percy; that he hadn't had time to tell her she'd made a mistake, and +that, in fact, he might have knowed her tu Seacombe, only he didn't +recollect. + +There was a bad pause. + +Tony doesn't think ill of anybody without cause. _Honi soit qui mal y +pense_ might very well be _his_ motto. + + +2 + +News has come along from Plymouth that the boats there have fallen in +with large shoals of herring. The air here has since been charged with +excitement--the excitement of men who earn their livelihood by gambling +with the sea. The drifters have fitted out. Most of the boats are up +over--lying on the sea wall--but a few days ago many busy blue men slid +the big brown drifters down their shoots to the beach. Looking along, +one saw a couple of men standing in each drifter and, with the +leisurely haste of seamen, drawing in their nets. It gave a peculiar +savour, a hopeful animation, to the blank wintry sea. It was as if the +spring had come to us human beings prematurely, before it was ready to +seize on nature. + +[Sidenote: _ON THE CLIFFS_] + +Yesterday afternoon I felt too unwell to lend a hand in shoving off the +boats. So I climbed to the top of the East Cliff. The air was cool and +still--so still that all the Seacombe smoke hung in the valley and +drifted slowly to seawards and faded there. While the sun was setting +behind a bank of sulky dull clouds, some woolpacks, faintly outlined in +white against the grey, rose almost imperceptibly in the western sky. +Everything, the sea itself, seemed very dry. Nothing moved on the +cliffs, except some small birds which flittered homelessly among the +black and twisted burnt gorse. They were very tiny and pitiful against, +or indeed amid, the solemn gathering of the great slow clouds. On +looking down from the edge of the cliff, a slight mistiness of the air +gave one the impression that there was, lying level above the sea, a +sheet of glass that dulled the sound of the water yet allowed one to +discern every half-formed ripple, and even the purple of the rocks +beneath. Five hundred feet below and a quarter of a mile out, were +three boats. They also, like the birds, seemed pitifully tiny. But, +unlike the birds, they did not seem purposeless. It was evident they +were moving, though one could not see rowers, oars, or splashes, for +they progressed in short jumps and above the dulled rattle of a billow +breaking on the pebbles, the faint click-thud of oars between +thole-pins was plainly audible. I had an odd fancy that the six men +were rowing through immensity, into eternity, to meet God; and that +they would so continue rowing, eternally. + +This morning, very early, the crackle of burning wood in the kitchen +fireplace awoke me. Then I heard the sea roaring; then Tony's bare feet +on the stairs. "Wind's backed an' come on to blow," he said. "They've +a-had to hard up an' urn for it. Two on 'em's in, an' one have a-losted +two nets. I told 'em 'twasn't vitty when they shoved off. 'Tis blowing +hard. I be going out along to see w'er t'other on 'em's in eet." + +The sea was angry, the moon obscure. The dead-asleep town stood up +motionless before the madly-living breakers. It seemed as if a horrible +fight was in progress; loud rage and dumb treachery face to face in the +semi-darkness; and between the livelong combatants, little men ran to +and fro, peering out to sea. + +Presently the third boat ran ashore. Its bellied sail hid everything +from us who waited at the water's edge. It was hoisted on a high wave, +and cast on land. The sea did not want it then. The sea spewed it up. +The sea can afford to wait, even until the clean bright little town is +a ruin on a salt marsh. + +Returning in house, we made hot tea, and laughed. + + +3 + +We had, as it were, said _Good-Night_ to the town, though it was only +half-past three in the afternoon. Most lazy we must have looked as we +sailed off to the fishing ground with a light fair wind, NNW. John's +young muscular frame was leaning against the mainmast, like a +magnificent statue dressed for the moment in fishermen's rig. Tony aft +was lounging across the tiller. He fits the tiller, for he is older and +bent and his eyes are deeply crowsfooted with watching. Both of them +showed the same splendid contrast of navy-blue jerseys against sea eyes +and spray-stung red and russet skins. I was lying full length along the +midship thwart. We lopped along lazily, about three knots to the hour. + +[Sidenote: _HERRING DRIFTING_] + +As we lounged and smoked, each of us sang a different song, more or +less in tune. It sounded not unmelodious upon the large waters. At +intervals we asked one another where the 'gert bodies of herrings' had +gone off to. Eastwards, westwards, to the offing, or down to the bottom +to spawn? + +So near the land we were, yet so far from it in feeling. There, to the +NE. was the little town, sunlit and brilliantly white, with the church +tower rising in the middle and the heather-topped cloud-capped hills +behind. There around the bay, were the red cliffs, crossed by deep +shadows and splotched with dark green bushes. The land was there. We +were to sea. The water, which barely gurgled beneath the bows of the +drifter, was rushing up the beaches under the cliffs with a +myriad-sounding rattle. Gulls, bright pearly white or black as +cormorants, according as the light struck them, were our only +companions. The little craft our kingdom was--twenty-two foot long by +eight in the beam,--and a pretty pickle of a kingdom! + +Mixed up together in the stern were spare cork buoys, rope ends, sacks +of ballast and Tony. Midships were the piled up nets and buoys. For'ard +were more ballast bags and rope ends, some cordage, old clothes, sacks, +paper bags of supper, four bottles of cold tea, two of paraffin oil and +one of water, the riding lamp and a very old fish-box, half full of +pebbles, for cooking on. All over the boat were herring scales and +smelly blobs of roe. It's sometime now since the old craft was scraped +and painted. + +But the golden light of the sunset gilded everything, and the probable +catch was what concerned us. + +We chose our berth among the other drifters that were on the ground. We +shot two hundred and forty fathom of net with a swishing plash of the +yarn and a smack-smack-splutter of the buoys. We had our supper of +sandwiches and tatie-cake and hotted-up tea. + +"Can 'ee smell ort?" asked John sniffing out over the bows. + +"Herring!" said I. "I can smell 'em plainly." + +"Then there's fish about." + +Tony however remarked the absence of birds, and declared that the water +didn't look so fishy as when they had their last big haul. "They +herrings be gone east," he repeated. + +"G'out! What did 'ee come west for then? I told yu to du as yu was +minded, an' yu did, didn' 'ee? Us'll haul up in a couple o' hours an' +see w'er us got any." + +We didn't turn in. We piled on clothes and stayed drinking, smoking, +chatting, singing--a boat-full of life swinging gently to the nets in +an immense dark silence, an immense sea-whisper. + +[Sidenote: _HAULING IN THE NETS_] + +About nine o'clock we hauled in for not more than nine dozen of fish. +The sea-fire glimmered on the rising net, glittered in the boat, and +then, with an almost painful suddenness, snuffed out. "They be so full +as eggs," said John every minute or two, holding out fish to Tony, who +felt them and answered, "Iss, they'm no scanters [spawned or undersized +fish]. _They_ bain't here alone." + +Nets inboard, we rowed a little east of another boat, to shoot a second +time. John said, "Hoist the sail, can't 'ee." Tony said, "What's the +need?" + +Before eleven we were foul of the other boat's nets and had again to +haul in. Tony puffed and panted with the double weight; John +disentangled the mesh and swore. + +"If we'd a-hoisted the sail..." he grumbled. + +"There wasn't no need if we'd a-pulled a bit farther." + +"What's the good o' pulling yer arms out?" + +"I knowed where to go, on'y yu said we was far enough." + +"No I didn't!" + +"S'thee think I don' know where to shute a fleet o' nets?" + +"Well, we'm foul, anyhow." + +"I was herring drifting afore yu was born. I knows well enough." + +"Why don' 'ee hae yer own way then, if yu knows. Yu'm s'posed to be +skipper here." + +"If I'd had me own way...." + +"Hould thy bloody row, casn'!" + +It sounded like murder gathering up; but Tony calls it their brotherly +love-talk, and they are no worse friends for it all. The better the +catch, the more exciting the work, and the livelier the love-talk. They +say, therefore, that it brings luck to a boat. + +A third time we shot nets, safely to the east of every other craft. +Then John with his legs in a sack and a fearnought jacket round him, +snored in the cutty, whilst Tony nodded sleepily outside. The sky +eastwards had already in it the weird whitish light of the coming moon. +The risen wind was piping out from land. I could see the bobbing lights +of the other drifters to westward, and the glint of the Seacombe lamps +on the water. Every now and then a broken wave came up to the boat with +a confidential hiss. I had a constant impression that out of the dark +flood some great voice was going to speak to me--speak quite softly. + +"Shall us hot some more tea?" said Tony. "My feet be dead wi' cold." + +We took the old fish-box and placed on the pebbles in it an old +saucepan half full of oakum soaked in paraffin. Across the saucepan we +ledged a sooty swivel, and on the swivel a black tin kettle which +leaked slowly into the flame. Tony and myself lay with our four feet +cocked along the edge of the box for warmth. The smoke stank in our +nostrils, but the flame was cheery. By that flickering light the boat +looked a great deep place, full of lumber and the blackest shadows. The +herring scales glittered and the worn-out varnish was like rich brown +velvet. And how good the tea, though it tasted of nothing but sugar, +smoke, paraffin and herring. + +[Sidenote: _A LONG NIGHT AT SEA_] + +It was nearly midnight. Tony suggested forty winks. + +John was still sprawling beneath the cutty. Tony and I snoozed under +the mainsail, huddled up together for the sake of warmth, like animals +in a nest. At intervals we got up to peep over the gunwale or to bale +the boat out. Then with comic sighs we coiled down together again. It +was bitterly cold in the small hours. We pooled our vitality, as it +were, and shared and shared alike. When we finally awoke, about five in +the morning, the wind had died down, the sky and moon were clouded, and +a dull mist was creeping over the sea. + +We hauled in the net--fathoms of it for scarcely a fish. + +"Have 'ee got anything to eat?" asked Tony. + +"No." + +"Have yu got ort to drink?" asked John. + +"No." + +"Got a cigarette?" I asked. + +"Not one." + +"If we was to go a bit farther out and shute...." said Tony. + +"G'out! Hould yer row!" + +"All very well for yu. Yu been sleeping there for all the world like a +gert duncow [dog-fish]. Why didn' 'ee wake up an' hae a yarn for to +keep things merry like?" + +[Sidenote: _NORT' AT ALL_] + +John was leaning out over the bows. He rose up; stretched himself. +"Shute again!" he said with scorn. "Us an't got nort to eat, nort to +drink, nort to smoke, nor nort to talk about, an' us an't catched nort. +Gimme thic sweep there, an' let's get in out o' it, I say." + +It was foggy. I steered the boat by compass over a sea that, under the +smudged moon, was in colour and curve like pale violently shaken liquid +mud. In time we glimpsed the cliffs with the mist creeping up over +them. Day was beginning to break, and with a breath of wind that had +sprung up from the SE., we glided like a phantom ship on a phantom sea +towards a phantom town between whose blind houses the wisps of the fog +writhed tortuously. + +Sixteen hours to sea in an open boat--for three hundred herrings--and +the price three shillings a hundred! + +It is nothing to fishermen, that; but we were all glad of our +breakfast, a smoke and our beds. + + +4 + +Tony was gone to sea on Christmas Eve. (They caught three thousand). +Mrs Widger had cricked her back, or had caught cold in it standing at +the back door with the steaming wash-tub in front of her and a +northerly wind behind. We wanted some supper beer.... + +I felt more than a little shy on entering the jug and bottle department +with a jug. It is such a secret place. To face a bar full of people and +plump a jug down on the counter, is one thing; but it is quite another +to slink up the stairs and into the wooden box--about seven feet high +and four by four--that does duty for the jug and bottle department, and +the privy tippling place, of the Alexandra Hotel. There is no gas +there. Light filters in from elsewhere. It holds about five people, +jammed close together. Round it runs a shelf for glasses, and at one +end is a tiny door through which jugs are passed to the barman. Once +there was a curtain across the entrance, but it was put to such good +and frequent use that they removed it. Talk in the jug and bottle box +is usually carried on in soft whispers punctuated by laughter. + +Three cloaked old women were there and one young one. Their jugs stood +on the shelf, ready to take home, but meanwhile they were having a +round of drinks on their own account. They looked surprised at my +arrival (it was an intrusion); and more surprised still when, on +hearing that the barman was merely having a chat the other side, I +rattled the jug on the shelf and bumped the little door. They gasped +when I slipped the bolt of the little door with a penknife. What chake +to be sure! The hotel shows respect to its light-o'-day customers, but +the dim jug and bottle box is supposed to show respect to the hotel. It +calls the barman _Sir_. It said, "Good-night, sir!" in astonished +chorus to me. + +But just as the mere act of jumping a skipping rope made me long ago a +freeman among the children, so I notice that fetching the supper beer +has resulted in another indefinable promotion. I am not so much now +'thic ther gen'leman tu Tony Widger's.' I am become 'Mister +So-and-so'--myself alone. + +When I returned with the jug Jimmy was seated at the table and saying +between tears, "I want some supper, Mam. I be 'ungry." + +"Yu daring rascal! Yu'll catch your death o' cold if yu goes on getting +your feet wet like this, night after night. I'll break every bone in +your body, I will! Take off they beuts to once, an' go on up over. An't +got no supper for the likes o' you. Yu shan't wear your best clothes +to-morrow, n'eet at all, spoiling 'em like this, yu dirty little cat! +I'll beat it out o' 'ee. Now then! Up over!" + +Very tearful, very hungry, and very slowly, Jimmy went to bed. + +"No supper's the thing for the likes o' he," his mother remarked. "I +shall gie it to him one o' these days, but I don't hold wi' knocking +'em about tu much." + +Her impatience in speech and patience in action are alike +extraordinary. She says she will half kill the children and seldom +strikes even: if I had the responsibility of them, I fear I should do +both. + +[Sidenote: _SUNDAY CLOTHES_] + +Next morning there was a fine dispute over the Sunday clothes. Both +Jimmy and Tommy went upstairs defiantly, and routed them out. The +kitchen was filled with cries and jeers and threats. Tommy appealed to +me. I told him I knew nothing about it, because I hadn't got any Sunday +clothes myself. + +"Iss, yu 'ave," said Tommy. + +"No, not a rag." + +"Yu 'ave." + +"I haven't. I've none at all. You've never seen them." + +"G'out!" + +"That's right." + +"Well," said Tommy confidentially, "Yu got a clean chimie-shirt then, +an't 'ee?" + +In the laughter which followed, the Sunday clothes were slipped on. And +while Jimmy was struggling with a new pair of boots, he paid me the +nicest compliment I have ever heard. He looked up, red but thoughtful. +"Yu'm like Father Christmas," he said. + +"Why for, Jimmy?" + +"'Cause yu'm kind." + +Jimmy doesn't know how kind he is to me. And I don't suppose it would +do him any good to tell him. + +We had a very typical and enjoyable English Christmas. We over-ate +ourselves, and were well pleased, and the children went to bed crying. + + +5 + +[Sidenote: _THE "SHOOTING STAR" FITS OUT_] + +"_Shuteing Star o' Seacombe!_ '_Tis_ a purty crew to go herring +driftin'! I'd so soon fall overboard in a gale o' wind as go out to say +wi' thic li'l Roosian like that ther. Lord! did 'ee ever see the like +o'it? I never did. But there, what can 'ee 'spect when the herring be +up in price an' men an' boats as hasn' been to sea for years fits out +for to go herring driftin'? Coo'h! driftin'!" + +That was Uncle Jake's opinion. He stood on the shingle with his old +curiosity of a hat cocked on one side and his hands deep in his trouser +pockets, turning himself round inside his clothes to rub warmth into +his skin; talking, always talking, whilst his twinkling eyes watch sea +and land; but ready to help a boat shove off, and willing to take as +pay the opportunity of talking to, and at, its crew. "'Tis blowing a +fresh wind out 'long there, I tell 'ee," was his formula of +encouragement for a starting boat. + +Herrings were up! Sixteen shillings a thousand they had been before +Christmas; then eighteen, twenty-three, thirty-one.... "They'm fetching +two poun' a thousand tu Plymouth, what there is, an' buyers there +waiting from all over the kingdom. An' they'm still going up, 'cause +there ain't none. Nine bob a hunderd tu St Ives, I've a-heard say. +There's a Plymouth buyer here to-day. I've a-see'd our Seacombe buyers +luke. They Plymouth men be the bwoys!" + +Herrings too have been in our bay as they have not come for +years--'gert bodies of 'em'--while a succession of gales and blizzards +has been sweeping the whole of the rest of the British coasts, and +driving the steam-drifters into harbour. Hence the price of fish: +quotations very high; business nil, or next door to it. Our bay +however, by a fortunate freak of the weather, has been amply calm for +our little undecked drifters, though squalls off land have made sailing +tricky in the extreme. We have seen the snow on the distant hills but +none has fallen here. We have had the ground-swell, rolling in from +outside, but of broken seas, not one. + +The boats that came in early on Christmas night (they didn't like the +look of the weather) brought hauls of ten thousand or so. They had +given away netfuls of herring to craft from other places, because they +had caught so many, and the wind was against them and the sky wild. + +Next night, much the same thing. It was rumoured that some Cornish +craft were beating up to the bay. + +Next day, the Little Russian, a small, snug, ragged, much-bearded man, +was to be seen painting the stern of his old boat--a craft more +tattered and torn, if possible, than her owner. + +"What be doing, Harry?" + +No reply. Great industry with the paint-brush. + +"Be going to sea then?" + +"Iss intye! What did 'er think?" + +The Little Russian went on doggedly with his work, and when he rose +from his knees, there appeared complete, on the stern of his boat, in +lanky, crooked white letters: _Shooting Star of Seacombe_. + +"Be it true yu'm going to sea t'night, Harry?" + +"Iss." + +"What do 'ee 'spect to catch? Eh?" + +No answer again. The Little Russian was hauling a couple of nets +aboard. + +"Who be going with 'ee?" + +"Ol' Joe Barker an' 'Gustus Theodore." + +"Good Lord! '_Tis_ a crew, that! Be 'ee going to catch dree dozen or +ten thousand?" + +"We'm on'y taking two nets," replied the Little Russian quite +seriously. + +He was very busy. + +[Sidenote: _AND SHOVES OFF_] + +About three in the afternoon, when the drifters put out to sea, the +nor'west wind was springing out from land in squalls. It had not +sea-space to raise big waves, but it blew the white tops off the +wavelets which hurried out against, and on the top of, the sou'westerly +swell that was heaving its way in. As Uncle Jake remarked: "'Tis +blowing fresh, I can tell 'ee, an' not so very far out at that. An' +'tis blowing half a gale from the sou'west outside in the Channel. Do +'ee see thic black line across the horizon? That's the sou'west wind, +an' plenty o'it. Luke at thees yer run along the shore, wi' a calm sea. +'Tis the sou'west outside as makes that tu." + +The boats hoisted their smaller mainsails. "Aye, an' they'll hae to +reef they down afore they gets out far. There! did 'ee see thic? That's +thiccy seine-boat as fitted out. Seine-boats ain't no fit craft for +herring driftin'." + +The mainmast of the seine boat had toppled over to port. No sooner was +it re-stepped, and the sail hoisted, than over it went again. "Step o' +the mast gone, I'll be bound," said Uncle Jake. "They'm going to +capsize, going on like that, if they bain't careful. Poor job! when +mastises goes over like that. Better to row.... There's thic Li'l +Roosian shoving off!" + +In fact, the _Shooting Star_ was shoved off, but a wave threw her back +upon the shore. She was again shoved off. Again she grounded on the +sand, and there she stuck. A roar of laughter broke forth all along the +beach. The Little Russian and his crew stood up in the heeled-over +boat, and by using their oars like punt poles, they tried to prevent +the seas from slewing them round broadside on. Very helpless they +looked, very comic, very futile. + +A swarm of small boys buzzed around and jeered. The Little Russian +jumped up and down with vexation. Augustus Theodore, rowing frantically +in a foot or so of water, splashed and 'caught crabs.' Joe Barker, +tall, patriarchal, thin and thinly clad, stood up to his oar, looked +savage curses from his sunken old eyes and muttered them into his +beard. + +[Sidenote: _AND GETS OFF_] + +"That _be_ a purty crew!" repeated Uncle Jake. "I 'ouldn' go to say wi' +'em, not if.... A purty fellow, thic 'Gustus Theodore! They calls +chil'ern by names nowadays, but they called he 'Gustus Theodore, an' us +can't get over thic, so us al'ays calls 'en 'Gustus Theodore in long. +Bain't no gude tu hisself nor nobody else. I've a-took 'en to say.... +Never again! 'Er ain't no fisherman nuther. An' thic Joe Barker's past +it. He've had his day. Been in the Army an' been in the Navy, an' an't +brought no pension out o' the one n'eet out o' t'other. Helped throw a +'Merican midshipman overboard once, so they say, drough a porthole. +Thought they was going to be hanged for it, but they wasn't. He've +a-lived wildish in his time, I can tell 'ee; an' now he's the man for +sleep. Take 'en out shrimping or lifting crab-pots, stop rowing a +minute an' he's fast asleep. The Li'l Roosian hisself an't been to say +thees dozen years. 'Tis a crew o'it! Luke! _they_ can't shove off. I +can see they wants Uncle Jake there." + +The _Shooting Star_ was still being shoved. The Little Russian was +still jumping up and down in the stern-sheets; Augustus Theodore was +still rowing fast and fruitlessly; and Joe Barker stood impassively +tall--a mummy of a man, wrapped up in aged clothes and a great dirty +white beard. Life was contracted within him. No more than his eyes +seemed alive, and hardly those until you looked closely; for the yellow +rims and whites appeared to be dead, and the old cursing flame of life +burnt only in the pupils. + +"Do 'ee really mean to go?" asked Uncle Jake, taking up a long oar to +shove with. "'Tisn't nowise fit for a crazy craft like thees yer." + +"When a man," said the Little Russian solemnly, "when a man has a +chance to catch herring and pay his way, and pay a debt or two maybe, +'tis on'y right to try." + +"For sure 'tis. But why an't 'ee been to say thees twelve year then?" + +"An't been fit...." + +"Fit! Tis the price o' herring fetches the likes o' yu. Have 'ee got +yer lead-line and compass aboard?" + +"I've broke mine." + +"'Tis tempting Providence to go away wi'out 'em Be yu off? Off yu goes +then. Luke out!" + +A yell went up as a wave broke in over the stern and soaked Joe +Barker's back. + +"They'm off!" cried Uncle Jave with ironic merriment. "Wet drough to +the skin they be!" + +The Little Russian rowed steadily on the same side as 'Gustus Theodore. +Both of them just balanced Joe Barker, who rowed on the other side in +strong jerks, as if his aged strength revived for a part only of each +stroke. + +Darkness, drawing in over the sea, hid the drifters from sight. Along +the beach we asked one another in jest, "I wonder what the _Shuteing +Star_ is doing now?" + +The commonest answer was a laugh. But we did want to know. + +Between eleven o'clock and midnight sail after sail appeared silently +on the black darkness, as if some invisible hand had suddenly painted +them there. The boats were coming in. Creaks and groans of winches +sounded along the beach. + +[Sidenote: _AND RETURNS_] + +"Who be yu?" was the greeting from a rabble of youths who scuttled up +and down the waters' edge to guide boats to their berths and gain first +news of the catches. "Have 'ee see'd ort o' the _Shuteing Star_?" they +shouted. + +"No-o-o-o!" + +"_I_ shan't go to bed till they comes in," said Uncle Jake. "Cuden' +sleep if I did. '_Tis_ a craft! Her's so leaky as a sieve, lying dry +all these years. Not but what her was a gude 'nuff li'l craft in her +time--tu small for winter work. But I wishes 'em luck, I du." + +At last, the _Shooting Star_ did row in. They had not dared to sail +her. She touched the beach before we glimpsed her, for all our +watching. A crowd ran down to haul her up and to crack jokes on her. + +"Have 'ee catched ort, Harry?" + +"Tu or dree dizzen, an' half a ton o' coral an' some wild-crabs." + +"Did 'er sail well--keep up to the wind? Eh?" + +"Us rowed. 'Tis blowin' a gale out there." + +"What yu done to your nets?" + +"Broke 'em." + +"On to the bottom?" + +"Iss." + +"Why didn't 'ee go crab-fishing proper? Be 'ee going again?" + +The little Russan saw no joke. He bustled about the boat and replied: +"A-course we be, if 'tis fit." + +"Well, I wishes 'ee luck then." + +We all wished luck to the _Shooting Star_--to that cranky old boatload +of pluck, ill-luck, and ancient desperation. + +Said Uncle Jake: "I'd rather see they come in wi' a boatload o' herring +than any boat along the beach. 'Tis a purty craft an' a purty crew, but +they du desarve it." + +So said we all. 'Twas the least payment we could make for our +entertainment. + +As soon as they were hauled up, Joe Barker lit his pipe, and, instead +of going to bed, he went west along the shore, and carried up and +sifted sand till dawn. + +"Jest what he be fit for now," Uncle Jake remarked. "That'll get 'en +his bread an' baccy far sooner'n drifting for herring in thic _Shuteing +Star_." + +But if we only could have looked into the _Shooting Star_ at sea. The +_Shooting Star of Seacombe_! + + +6 + +"Us got 'em at last then!" so we tell one another. We have caught the +catch of the season. + +For three or four days the hauls had been fairly good. Elsewhere on the +coast, the snow, sleet, wind and wrecks continued. Here alone, in +Seacombe Bay, it got colder and colder, and the sea became calmer and +sunnier. "Tis like old days," Uncle Jake said while he spliced a new +cut-rope to the drifter. "The herring be come again, in bodies, and the +price be up. Us'll hae 'em." + +[Sidenote: _PAYING CALLS AT SEA_] + +An hour before sunset on Saturday afternoon we were shoved off the +beach--Tony, John, and myself. Every article of underclothing in +duplicate, a couple of guernseys and a coat or two were next to +nakedness. We were bloated with clothes, but that northerly air, it +seemed to be fingering our very skins. Yet there was hardly wind enough +to fill the sail. Ricketty-rock, ricketty-rock, went the sweeps between +the thole-pins, as we rowed to the fishing ground six miles or so away. +Not one of us wished to shirk the heavy work. 'Twas indeed our only +source of warmth. The sun was setting. The moon began to rise. The sea +was all of a glimmer and glitter. + +"I should think we was nearly where they fish be," said John. + +"Bit farther," said Tony. "Us'll drift back 'long when the flid tide +makes." + +"Du as yu'm minded tu." + +"Steer her a little bit in," directed Tony. + +"A little bit out," directed John the next minute. + +It was a middle course that turned out so happily. + +We shot our nets--seven forty-fathom nets we had aboard--between the +dying sunlight and the rising moon. Very still was the sea, and quiet, +except where the other drifters were shooting their nets. Their talk +lingered on the water; small voices that yet sounded strong. By the +light of the moon I counted twenty-seven drifters, some of them great +harbour craft from Cornwall, carrying fifteen or more nets. It seemed +as if not a herring on that little fishing ground could escape the long +fleets of nets. + +We lighted the paraffin flare; supped on sandwiches and oily tea. We +stamped about the stern-sheets to try and warm our feet. We sat awhile +beneath the cutty. We thought we smelt fish, but it might have been +only the smoke from our oil fire and the herring roe plastered about +the boat. Despairing of sleep in such a cold, we sang and smoked. + +Presently a plash of oars. Little punts were detaching themselves from +the larger drifters and flitting about on the sea like slow-winged +moon-butterflies. One came alongside. + +"Whu's that there?" + +"Tony an' John Widger--Have 'em been catching much to Hallsands?--Be +they Plymouth drifters up t'night?--What price yu been making?--How +deep yu got yer nets?--Have 'ee catched holt the bottom?--How's Aaron +an' Charles?--Did he get back ort o' his gear?--Us an't done a gert +deal eet. Few thousands thees week. Be yu going to haul in +soon?--Better, be her? Thought her was dead by now...." + +[Sidenote: _HAULING IN_] + +The fish-gossip over, we knew all the news of our stretch of coast. +After taking another cigarette and another pull at our 'drop o' summut +short,' the man in the punt rowed off to his drifter. + +"D' yu know your fourth buoy's awash?" he shouted back. + +"Is it, by God!" said John. + +"I can see 'tis," said Tony. + +"G'out! why didn' 'ee see 'twas afore then? Let's go an' luke." + +We buoyed the end of the road and started rowing alongside the +net-buoys. The fourth was bobbing up and down. The fifth appeared now +and then. None of the others was visible. + +"Damn'd if us bain't going to see some sport!" shouted John as we +hastened back to take up the road. + +We tugged on oilskins and then waited watchfully--for the inside net to +fill as well. The third buoy disappeared. The second went awash. "Now +'tis time, ain't it?" + +"Iss, I reckon." + +We bent to it, and began to haul. + +The road come in heavy: John hauled and Tony coiled. As the net rose we +saw a shimmer in the water, not of sea-fire--it was too cold--but of +silver-sided herring. Then John took the foot of the net, Tony the mesh +and myself the headrope. One strain. Altogether! Net and fish came in +over the gunwale. + +"No use to try and pick 'em out yer!" said John. + +"Us 'ould never ha' got 'em in wi' two," panted Tony. + +"Haul, casn'! Trim the boat. We'm going to hae all us can carry if +t'other nets be so full as thees yer." + +We hauled, and pulled, and puffed and swore. The fish came over the +side like a band of jewels, like shining grains on a huge and +never-ending ear of corn, like a bright steel mat.... It was as if the +moonlight itself, that flooded air and water, was solidifying into fish +in the dimmer depths of the sea. A good catch must have dropped back +out of the net. At times, it seemed as if nothing could move the +headrope. I jammed a knee against the gunwale, waited till the dipping +of the boat gave me a foot or two of line, then jammed again to hold +it. The sea-birds screeched at their feast. + +Tony, an inflated mannikin, danced on the piled-up nets and fish. +"Help, help!" he cried to the next drifter. "Us got a catch." + +"Hould yer row!" + +"Help, help!" + +"Shut up, yu fule!--We'm not done yet.--Thee doesn't want to pay for +help, dost?" + +[Sidenote: _THE CATCH OF THE SEASON_] + +We hauled, pulled, puffed and swore again. Yard by yard the nets came +up, now foul, now broken, now tangled, now wound about the headrope and +almost solid with fish. + +"Oh, my poor back." + +"Lord, my arms!" + +"Casn' thee trim a boat better'n that?" + +"Where 'er down tu?" + +"There's only two strakes to spare." + +The water was within less than a foot of the gunwale, and we were five +or six miles from home. + +"Help, help!" shouted Tony again, and this time we let it pass. Five +out of our seven nets were aboard; we could not take the remaining two. + +Another drifter came alongside and took in the sixth net. + +"Come on! here's the seventh--the last." + +"Can't take no more." + +"Ther's on'y thees yer outside net. Casn' thee take thic?" + +"Can't du it. We'm leaking now. Here's your headrope. Good-night." + +Tony gave a gesture of despair. "What shall us du? Us can't take in +much more. + +"Hould yer row, an' haul!" + +The last net was fuller than ever. We hauled in half of it. A punt came +near. "Can 'ee take one net?" yelled Tony. + +"Us got 'en half in now," said John. + +"Iss, but the wind's gone round--north-easterly--dead against us. An' +luke at the circle round the mune. Ther's wind in thic sky, I tell 'ee. +Us got so much now as we can carry home on a calm sea, let 'lone +choppy." + +We cut the net. + +"Hurry up! Hoist sail and get in out o'it 'fore the wind rises. Come +on!" + +With two oars out to windward we started beating home. We made a tack +out to sea. There the waves skatted in over the bows, for the +deeply-laden boat was down by the head because the heavy pile of net +and fish prevented the water from running aft where we could have +bailed it out. If we had had to tack much farther to sea.... We should +have lost the catch, and perhaps ourselves. + +We put the boat round towards Seacombe. "Luff her up all yu can," said +John. "Luff her up, I tell thee, or we'm never going to fetch. The +sea's rising an' us an't got nort to spare." + +By keeping the luff of the sail in a flutter, sometimes too much into +the wind, I just fetched. Then we rowed into smoother water. + +"'Tis fifteen thousand if 'tis one," said John. + +"'Tis more'n that," said Tony with a note of respect in his voice. + +[Sidenote: _PACKING THE FISH_] + +"Better wait till they sends some boats out. Us can't baych the boat +wi' thees weight in her." + +We yelled, anchored, then waited; swore, yelled and waited. Someone +came at last. The great heavy mast was sent ashore. Two boatloads of +net and fish followed, and finally the drifter herself was beached. + +The crowd that had gathered on the shingle worked at the winch and +ropes. We walked about among them answering questions, but for the +moment doing nothing. We felt we had a right to watch the landlubbers +work in return for the herrings we threw out to them. We had been to +sea; had caught the catch of the season. + +I came in house and fried some herrings for supper. Tony and John went +back to the boat. All night long they worked under the moon, drawing +out the net and picking the fish from it, standing knee-deep in fish, +spotted with scales like sequins. Far into Sunday they worked, counting +and packing the fish while the Sunday folk in their best clothes +strolled along the sea-wall and sniffed. + +Twenty-two long-thousand herrings--squashed, dirty and +bloodstained--were carted away in the barrels. Twenty-eight hours Tony +and John had worked. Then they washed, picked herring scales off +themselves, and rested. The skin was drawn tightly over their faces +and, as it were, away from their eyes. I saw, as I glanced at them, +what they will look like when they are old men: the skull and +crossbones half peeped out. And I said to myself: "When we feed on +herrings we feed on fishermen's strength. Though we don't cook human +meat, we are cannibals yet. We eat each other's lives." + +Rightly considered, that's not a nasty thought. Nor a new one either. + + +7 + +New Year's Eve last night.... Tony did not go to sea. He announced that +he would turn over a new leaf, and be a gen'leman, and not do no work +no more. "Summut'll turn up," he said when I asked him how he was going +to feed his family. "Al'ays have done an' al'ays will, I s'pose. Thees +yer ol' fule 'll go on till he's clean worked out. Thee casn' die but +once, an' thee casn' help o'it nuther. + +"Shut thee chatter an' bring in some wude," said Mrs Widger. "Now then +yu children, off yu goes! Up over, else my hand'll be 'longside o'ee!" + +"Gude-night!" say the children in chorus. "Gude-night! Gude-night! See +yu t'morrow morning. Du us hae presents on New Year's Day, Mam?" + +"Yu'll see. P'raps a cracker...." + +"Coo'h...." + +"Up over!" + +"What 'tis tu be a family man," said Tony. + +"Whu's fault's that?" Mam Widger retorted. + +"There, me ol' stocking, don't thee worry a man! Gie us a kiss...." + +"G'out!" + +[Sidenote: _DREE-HA'P'ORTH_] + +The Christmas decorations and the little spangled toys from the +children's crackers were still hanging from clothes-lines across the +kitchen. We piled wood on the fire; it had barnacle shells on it; with +the wreckage of good ships we warmed ourselves. Mam Widger laid the +supper. The steam from the kettles puffed merrily into the room. +Herrings were cooking in the oven. A faint odour--they were being +stewed in vinegar--stole out into the room to give us appetite and for +the moment a sense of plenty. Mrs Widger took a penny-ha'penny from the +household purse and handed it, together with a jug to Tony. +"Dree-ha'p'orth o' ale an' stout. Go on." + +Tony returned with tupence-ha'p'orth. He had added a penny out of his +own pocket because he is ashamed to ask for less than a pint. Grannie +Pinn came in at the same time. "I got the t'other pen'orth for me +mither-in-law," said Tony. + +"Chake again!" Grannie Pinn cried. "I wants more'n a pen'orth, I du." + +Tony slipped off his boots just in time. It was I who had to fetch an +extra dree-ha'p'orth. + +We supped with the uproariousness that Grannie Pinn always brings here. +Some other people dropped in to see how we were doing. Not staying to +clear the supper, we sang. The songs, as such, were indifferently good, +but we meant them and enjoyed them. For a while Grannie Pinn contented +herself with humming and nodding to the chorus. She started singing: +swore at us for laughing at her. "I cude sing a song wi' anybody once," +she said; and therewith she struck up a fine, very Rabelaisian old song +in many verses. She lifted up her face to the ceiling, blushed (I am +sure the Tough Old Stick blushed), and in a high cracked voice that +gradually gathered tone and force, she trolled her verses out. With an +infectious abandonment, we took up the chorus. After all, 'twas a song +of things that happen every day--one of those pieces of folk-humour +which makes life's seriousness bearable by carrying us frankly back to +the animal that is in us, that has been cursed for centuries and still +remains our strength. + +Grannie Pinn's song was the event of the evening. Excited by her +efforts to the point of hardly knowing whether to laugh or cry, she +told us we were 'a pack o' gert fules,' and went. The other visitors +followed after. + +"Don' know what yu feels like," said Tony when they were all gone. "I +feels more-ish. 'N hour agone I wer fit for bed, now I feels 's if I +cude sing for hours on end...." + +[Sidenote: _THE NEW YEAR_] + +"May as well welcome in the New Year now 'tis so late as 'tis," said +Mrs Widger, taking from one of her store-places a bottle of green +ginger-wine and another of fearful and wonderful 'Invalid Port' which, +as she remarked, 'ain't so strengthening as the port what gentry has.' +Tony added hot water to his ginger-wine, lay back in the courting +chair, plumped his feet on Mrs Widger's lap, and sang some more of +those sea songs that have such melancholy windy tunes and yet most +curiously stimulate one to action. I think it must be because they echo +that particular sub-emotional desperation which causes men to do their +reckless best--the desperation that the treacherous sea itself +engenders. + +At a minute or two before twelve by the clock, the three of us went out +to the back door. When the cats had scuttled away, the narrow walled-in +garden was very still. By the light of the stars, shining like points +in the deep winter heavens, I could see the beansticks, the balks of +wood and the old masts and oars. I could also smell the drain. Tony, in +his stockinged feet, leant on his wife's shoulder while he raised first +one foot from the cold stones, and then the other. We were a little +hushed, with more than expectancy. So we waited; to hear the church +clock strike and to welcome in the New Year. + +And we waited until Tony said that his feet were too cold to stay there +any longer. The church clock struck--_ting-tang, ting-tang_--in the +frosty air.... A quarter past! The New Year had been with us all the +while. It was our German-made kitchen clock had stopped. + +We laughed aloud because the strain was relaxed; then bolted the door +and began putting away the supper things. + +"If anybody wants to make me a New Year's Gift," said Tony, "they can +gie me a thousand a year." + +"And then yu'd be done for," I said. "Yu cuden' stand a life o' nort to +du. Nor cude I. We'm both in the same box, Tony. We've both got only +our strength and skill and health, and if that fails, then we'm done. +We'm our own stock-in-trade, and if we fail ourselves, then we've both +got only the workhouse or the road." + +"Iss," said Mam Widger, "an' I don' know but what yu'm worse off than +Tony. He _cude_ get somebody to work his boats--for a time. An' I cude +work. But afore yu comes to the workhouse yu jest walk along thees way, +an' if us got ort to eat yu shall hae some o'it." + +"Be damn'd if yu shan't!" said Tony. (I was putting away the pepper-pot +at the moment). "Us 'ouldn't never let thee starve, not if us had it +ourselves for to give 'ee." + + * * * * * + +So there 'tis. I'd wish to do the same for him, that he knows. How much +the spirit of such an offer can mean, only those who have been without +a home can understand fully. This New Year's Day has been happier than +most. Life has made me a New Year's Gift so good that I cannot free +myself from a suspicion of its being too good. + +It has given me home. + + + + +X + +POSTSCRIPT + + + SEACOMBE. + +I am often asked why I have forsaken the society of educated people, +and have made my home among 'rough uneducated' people, in a poor man's +house. The briefest answer is, that it is good to live among those who, +on the whole, are one's superiors. + +It is pointed out with considerable care what ill effects such a life +has, or is likely to have, upon a man. It is looked upon as a kind of +relapse. But to settle down in a poor man's house is by no means to +adopt a way of life that is less trouble. On the contrary, it is more +trouble. + +It is true that most of what schoolmasters call one's accomplishments +have to be dropped. One cannot keep up everything anywhere. + +It is true that one goes to the theatre less and reads less. Life, +lived with a will, is play enough, and closer acquaintance with life's +sterner realities renders one singularly impatient with the literature +of life's frillings. I do not notice, however, that it makes one less +susceptible to the really fine and strong things of literature and art. + +It is true that one drops into dialect when excited; that one's manners +suffer in conventional correctness. I suppose I know how to behave +fairly correctly; I was well taught at all events; but my manners never +have been and never will be so good, so considerate as Tony's. 'Tisn't +in me. + +It is true that one becomes much coarser. One acquires a habit of +talking with scandalous freedom about vital matters which among the +unscientific educated are kept hid in the dark--and go fusty there. But +I do not think there is much vulgarity to be infected with here. +Coarseness and vulgarity are incompatibles. It was well said in a book +written not long ago, that "Coarseness reveals but vulgarity hides." +Vulgarity is chiefly characteristic of the non-courageous who are +everlastingly bent on climbing up the social stairs. Poor people are +hardly ever vulgar, until they begin to 'rise' into the middle class. + +[Sidenote: _WISDOM_] + +It is true that, so far as knowledge goes, one is bound to be cock o' +the walk among uneducated people--which, alone, is bad for a man. But +knowledge is not everything, nor even the main thing. Wisdom is more +than knowledge: it is _Knowledge applied to life, the ability to make +use of the knowledge well_. In that respect I often have here to eat a +slice of humble-pie. For all my elaborate education and painfully +gained stock of knowledge, I find myself silenced time after time by +the direct wisdom of these so-called ignorant people. They have +preserved better, between knowledge and experience, that balance which +makes for wisdom. They have less knowledge (less mental dyspepsy too) +and use it to better purpose. It occurs to one finally that, according +to our current standards, the great wise men whom we honour--Christ, +Plato, Shakespeare, to name no more--were very ignorant fellows. +Possibly the standards are wrong. + +[Sidenote: _DIFFERENTIAL EVOLUTION_] + +To live with the poor is to feel oneself in contact with a greater +continuity of tradition and to share in a greater stability of life. +The nerves are more annoyed, the thinking self less. Perhaps the +difference between the two kinds of life may be tentatively +expressed--not necessarily accounted for--in terms of Differential +Evolution,[23] somewhat thus: + + (1) The first, the least speculative, evolutionary criterion of an + animal is its degree of adaptation to its environment. + + (2) Man exhibits a less degree of adaptation to environment than + any other animal; principally because (_a_) he consists, roughly + speaking, incomparably more than any other animal, of three + interdependent parts--body, thinking brain, and that higher mental + function that we call spirit--the development of any one of which, + beyond a certain stage, is found to be detrimental to the other + two; and because (_b_) he is able possibly to control directly his + own evolution, and certainly to modify it indirectly by modifying + the environment in which he evolves. He is able to make mistakes in + his own evolution. + + (3) The typical poor man is better adapted to his environment, such + as it is, than the typical man of any other class; for he has been + kept in closer contact with the primary realities--birth, death, + risk, starvation;--in closer contact, that is to say, with those + sections of human environment which are not of human making and + which are common to all classes. He has fewer mistakes to go back + upon. + + [23] Evolution is at present the last refuge of unscientific + minds which think they have explained a process when they + have given it a new name, just as chemists used to call an + obscure chemical action _catalytic_ and then assume that its + nature was plain. _Evolution_ means an _unfolding_. In that + sense it is an observed fact, though exactly how the + unfolding is brought about is still conjectural. But it does + not matter for the purposes of my argument whether human + beings evolve by the transmission to offspring of acquired + characteristics, or by bequeathing to them as birthright an + environment that their fathers had to make. The material for + constructing any theory of mental, or joint mental and + physical evolution, is so hazy that one cannot do more than + speculate. It may be noted, however, that acquired mental + characteristics appear to be more transmissible, and less + stable, than acquired physical characteristics; and that + mental evolution (in the broad sense again) proceeds faster + and collapses more readily than physical evolution. + + It might be said, of course, that mal-adaptation at any given + moment is more than counterbalanced by greater evolutional + potentialities, or by greater inducement to evolve; and that the + above chain of reasoning simply goes to prove that the poor man is + more of an animal--less evolved. On the other hand, from an + evolutionary standpoint, the animal faculties are the most basic of + all. A sound stomach is more necessary than a highly developed + brain, and good reproductive faculties are essential; because the + first demand of evolution is plenty of material. It does not follow + that our typical poor man is more of an animal, is less evolved, or + has a smaller potentiality to evolve, because he has preserved + better the animal faculties which lie at the basis of evolution. + +Furthermore: + + (4) There is a reasonable probability that an interior balance, + between body, brain, and spirit, is more needful for realising the + potentialities of evolution than rapidity of development in any + single respect. _Mens sana in corpore sano--animaque integra_ + is an ideal as sound as it is unachieved. More haste less speed, is + probably true of human evolution. A healthy baby is more hopeful + than a mad adult. + + (5) The typical poor man does, now, exhibit a better balance + between these three components of him. Less evolved in some ways, + he is on the whole, and for that reason, more forward. His + evolution is proceeding with greater solidity. It is more stable, + and more likely to realise its potentialities. + + * * * * * + +That is a speculation among probabilities and possibilities; an attempt +to go in a bee-line across fields that are mainly hidden ditches; a +first spying out of a country that wants mapping; a course over a sea +that can never perhaps be buoyed, where bearings must be taken afresh +from the sun for each voyage that is made. In any case, my belief grows +stronger that the poor have kept essentially what a schoolboy calls the +better end of the stick; not because their circumstances are +better--materially their lives are often terrible enough--but because +they know better how to make the most of what material circumstances +they have. If they could improve their material circumstances and +continue making the most of them.... That is the problem. + +Good Luck to us all! + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POOR MAN'S HOUSE*** + + +******* This file should be named 26126-8.txt or 26126-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/6/1/2/26126 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://www.gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: +http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/26126-8.zip b/26126-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f3ae6f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-8.zip diff --git a/26126-h.zip b/26126-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e4f9ce8 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-h.zip diff --git a/26126-h/26126-h.htm b/26126-h/26126-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..766029a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-h/26126-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,12280 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/html4/loose.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Poor Man's House, by Stephen Sydney Reynolds</title> +<style type="text/css"> + + body {margin-left: 13%; + margin-right: 13%;} + + p {text-indent: 0em; + text-align: justify; + margin-top: .85em; + margin-bottom: .85em; + line-height: 1.25em;} + + .narrow {margin-left: 30%; + margin-right: 30%; + line-height: 1.1em;} + + .sidenote {text-align: right; + line-height: 1em; + font-size: 97%;} + + span.sn {background-color: #D3D3D3;} + + .ctr {text-align: center;} + + .right {text-align: right; + margin-top: .5em;} + + .sc {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .sig {margin-left: 55%;} + + sup {line-height: 3px;} + + .foot {margin-left: 6%; + margin-right: 6%; + margin-top: .5em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + font-size: 97%;} + + .chapter {margin-top: 5em; + margin-bottom: .2em; + text-align: center; + font-size: 130%; + font-weight: bold;} + + .head {margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 5%; + margin-top: 2.5em; + margin-bottom: 1.2em; + text-align: center; + font-size: 110%; + font-weight: bold;} + + .blockquote {text-align: justify; + margin-left: 7%; + margin-right: 7%; + font-size: 98%; + margin-top: 1.5em; + margin-bottom: 1.5em;} + + h1 {text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + line-height: 1.3em; + letter-spacing: 4px;} + + h1.pg {text-align: center; + margin-top: 0em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + line-height: 1em; + letter-spacing: 0px;} + + h2, h3, h4, h5, h6 {text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + line-height: 1.3em;} + + h3.pg {text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + line-height: 1em;} + + hr {background-color: black; color: inherit; padding: 0;} + + hr.long {width: 90%; + height: 1px; + margin-top: 2.5em; + margin-bottom: 2em;} + + hr.med {width: 65%; + height: 1px; + margin-top: 2.5em; + margin-bottom: 2.5em;} + + hr.short {width: 35%; + height: 1px; + margin-top: 2.25em; + margin-bottom: 2.25em;} + + .poem {margin-left:12%; margin-right:4%; + margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem p {margin: 0; padding-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;} + .poem p.i2 {margin-left: 1em;} + .poem p.i4 {margin-left: 2em;} + .poem p.i6 {margin-left: 3em;} + .poem p.i8 {margin-left: 4em;} + .poem p.i10 {margin-left: 5em;} + .poem p.i12 {margin-left: 6em;} + .poem p.i14 {margin-left: 8em;} + .poem p.i16 {margin-left: 9em;} + .poem p.i18 {margin-left: 12em;} + + a:link {color: #33C; + background-color: inherit; + text-decoration: none;} + link {color: #33C; + background-color: inherit; + text-decoration: none;} + a:visited {color:#33C; + background-color: inherit; + text-decoration: none;} + a:hover {color:#F00; + background-color: inherit;} + + hr.full { width: 100%; + height: 5px; } + pre { font-size: 85%; } +</style> +</head> +<body> +<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Poor Man's House, by Stephen Sydney Reynolds</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: A Poor Man's House</p> +<p>Author: Stephen Sydney Reynolds</p> +<p>Release Date: July 25, 2008 [eBook #26126]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POOR MAN'S HOUSE***</p> +<br><br><center><h3 class="pg">E-text prepared by Malcolm Farmer<br> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br> + (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3></center><br><br> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" noshade> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<h1> +<i>A POOR MAN'S HOUSE</i> +</h1> + +<br> + +<h3> +<i>By</i> +</h3> + +<h2> +<i>STEPHEN REYNOLDS</i> +</h2> + + +<br> +<p class="narrow"> +"<i>We understand the artificial better +than the natural. More soul, but less +talent, is contained in the simple than +in the complex.</i>"—<span class="sc">Novalis.</span> +</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<br> + +<h4> +<i>LONDON: JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD<br> +NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPY. MCMIX</i> +</h4> + +<h4> +<i>All rights reserved</i> +</h4> + +<h4> +TURNBULL AND SPEARS, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH +</h4> +<br> +<hr class="short"> + +<p class="ctr"> +TO +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +BOB +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +<small>AND TO</small> +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +EDWARD GARNETT +</p> + +<hr class="short"> +<br> + +<p> +A few chapters, chosen from the completed work, have appeared in the +<i>Albany Review</i>, the <i>Daily News</i> and <i>Country Life</i>. To +the editors of those periodicals the author's acknowledgments are due. +</p> + +<hr class="med"> + + + +<h3> +<i>PREFACE</i> +</h3> + + +<p> +The substance of "A Poor Man's House" was first recorded in a journal, +kept for purposes of fiction, and in letters to one of the friends to +whom the book is dedicated. Fiction, however, showed itself an +inappropriate medium. I was unwilling to cut about the material, to +modify the characters, in order to meet the exigencies of plot, form, +and so on. I felt that the life and the people were so much better than +anything I could invent. Besides which, I found myself in possession of +conclusions, hot for expression, which could not be incorporated at all +into fiction. "A Poor Man's House" consists then of the journal and +letters, subjected to such slight re-arrangement as should enable me to +draw the truest picture I could within the limits of one volume. +</p> + +<p> +Primarily the book aims at presenting a picture of a typical poor man's +house and life. Incidentally, certain conclusions are expressed +which—needless to say—are very tentative and are founded not alone on +<i>this</i> poor man's house. Of the book as a picture, it is not the +author's place to speak. But its opinions, and the manner of arriving +at them, do require some explanation; the right to hold such opinions +some substantiation. +</p> + +<p> +Educated people usually deal with the poor man's life deductively; they +reason from the general to the particular; and, starting with a theory, +religious, philanthropic, political, or what not, they seek, and too +easily find, among the millions of poor, specimens—very frequently +abnormal—to illustrate their theories. With anything but human beings, +that is an excellent method. Human beings, unfortunately, have +individualities. They do what, theoretically, they ought not to do, and +leave undone those things they ought to do. They are even said to +possess souls—untrustworthy things beyond the reach of sociologists. +The inductive method—reasoning from the particular to the +general—though it lead to a fine crop of errors, should at least help +to counterbalance the psychological superficiality of the deductive +method; to counterbalance, for example, the nonsense of those +well-meaning persons who go routing about among the poor in search of +evil, and suppose that they can chain it up with little laws. Chained +dogs bite worst. +</p> + +<p> +For myself, I can only claim—I only want to claim—that I have lived +among poor people without preconceived notions or <i>parti pris</i>; +neither as parson, philanthropist, politician, inspector, sociologist +nor statistician; but simply because I found there a home and more +beauty of life and more happiness than I had met with elsewhere. So far +as is possible to a man of middle-class breeding, I have lived their +life, have shared their interests, and have found among them some of my +closest and wisest friends. Perhaps I may reasonably anticipate one +type of criticism by adding that I have felt something of the pinch and +hardship of the life, as well as enjoyed its picturesqueness. Since the +book was first written, it has fallen to me, on an occasion of illness, +to take over for some days all the housekeeping and cooking; and I have +worked on the boats sometimes fifteen hours a day, not as an amateur, +but for hard and—what is more to the point—badly-needed coin. It took +the gilt off the gingerbread, but it didn't spoil the gingerbread! +</p> + +<p> +Would it were possible to check by ever so little the class-conceit of +those people who think that they can manage the poor man's life better +than he can himself; who would take advantage of their education to +play ducks and drakes with his personal affairs. For it is my firm +belief that in the present phase of national evolution, and as regards +the things that really matter, the educated man has more to learn of +the poor man than to teach him. Even Nietzsche, the philosopher of +aristocracy, went so far as to say that <i>in the so-called cultured +classes, the believers in 'modern ideas,' nothing is perhaps so +repulsive as their lack of shame, the easy insolence of eye and hand +with which they touch, taste, and finger everything; and it is possible +that even yet there is more</i> relative <i>nobility of taste, and more +tact for reverence among the people, among the lower classes of the +people, especially among peasants, than among the newspaper-reading</i> +demi-monde <i>of intellect, the cultured class</i>. +</p> + +<p class="sig"> +S. R. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Seacombe</span>, 1908. +</p> + + +<hr class="long"> +<br> +<h2> +<i>A POOR MAN'S HOUSE</i> +</h2> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +I +</p> + + +<p class="right"> +<span class="sc">Egremont Villas</span>,<br> +<span class="sc">Seacombe</span>, <i>April</i>. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +1 +</p> + +<p> +The sea is merely grinding against the shingle. The <i>Moondaisy</i> +lies above the sea-wall, in the gutter, with her bottom-boards out and +a puddle of greenish water covering her garboard strake. Her +hunchbacked Little Commodore is dead. The other two of her old crew, +George Widger and Looby Smith are nowhere to be seen: they must be +nearly grown up by now. The fishermen themselves appear less +picturesque and salty than they used to do. It is slack time after a +bad herring season. They are dispirited and lazy, and very likely +hungry. +</p> + +<p> +These old lodgings of mine, with their smug curtains, aspidestria +plant, china vases and wobbly tables and chairs.... +</p> + +<p> +But I can hear the sea-gulls screaming, even here. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +2 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"> +<i>GEORGE GONE TO SEA</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Yesterday morning I met young George Widger, now grown very lanky but +still cat-like in his movements. He was parading the town with a couple +of his mates, attired in a creased blue suit with a wonderful yellow +scarf around his neck, instead of the faded guernsey and ragged +sea-soaked trousers in which he used to come to sea. What was up? I +asked his father, and Tony had a long rigmarole to tell me. George had +got a sweetheart. Therefore George had begun to look about him for a +sure livelihood. George was not satisfied with a fisherman's prospects. +"Yu works and drives and slaves, and don't never get no forarder." So +George had gone to the chief officer of coastguards without saying a +word to his father and had been found fit. George had joined the Navy. +He was going off to Plymouth that very day at dinner-time. +</p> + +<p> +It is like a knight of romance being equipped by his lady for the wars. +But what must be the difficulty to a young fisherman of earning his +bread and cheese, when all he can do for his sweetheart is to leave her +forthwith! There's a fine desperation in it. +</p> + +<p> +Tony seemed rather proud. "They 'ouldn't think as I had a son old +enough for the Navy, wude they, sir? I married George's mother, her +that's dead, when I wer hardly olden'n he is. I should ha' joined the +Navy meself if it hadn' been for the rheumatic fever what bent me like. +I am. 'Tis a sure thing, you see—once yu'm in it an' behaves +yourself—wi' a pension at the end o'it. But I'm so strong an' +capable-like for fishing as them that's bolt upright, on'y I 'ouldn't +ha' done for the Navy. Aye! the boy's right. Fishing ain't no job for a +man nowadays; not like what it used to be. They'll make a man of him in +the Navy." +</p> + +<p> +In the evening, after dark, I saw Tony again. He was standing outside a +brilliantly lighted grocer's shop, his cap awry as usual, and a reefer +thrown over his guernsey. Something in the despondency of his attitude +haled me across the road. "Well, Tony? George is there by now?" +</p> + +<p> +"Iss ... I-I-I w-wonder what the boy's thinking o'it now...." +</p> + +<p> +The man was crying his heart out. "I come'd hereto 'cause it don' seem +'s if I can stay in house. Went in for some supper a while ago, but I +cuden' eat nort. 'Tisn' 's if he'd ever been away from home before, yu +know." +</p> + +<p> +"Come along down to the Shore Road, Tony." +</p> + +<p> +It seemed wrong, hardly decent, to let his grief spend itself in the +lighted-up street. The Front was deserted and dark, for there was rain +in the wind, and the sound of the surf had a quick savage chop in it. +Away, over the sea, was a great misty blackness. +</p> + +<p> +As we walked up and down, Tony talked between tears and anger—tears +for himself and George, anger at the cussedness of things. He looked +straight before him, to where the row of lamps divided the lesser from +the greater darkness, the town noises from the chafing surf; it is the +only time I have ever seen a fisherman walk along shore without a +constant eye on the sea. +</p> + +<p> +"He's taken and gone away jest as he was beginning to be o' some use +wi' the boats, an' I thought he wer settling down. <i>I</i> didn' know +what wer going on, not till he came an' told me he wer off. But 'tisn' +that, though I bain't so strong as I was to du all the work be meself; +'tis what he's a-thinking now he've a-lef' home an' 'tis tu late to +come back if he wants tu. He's ther, sure 'nuff, an' that's all about +it." +</p> + +<p> +In the presence of grief, we are all thrown back on the fine old +platitudes we affect to despise. "You mustn't get down over it, Tony," +I said. "That won't make it a bit the better. If he's steady—woman, +wine and the rest—he'll get on right enough. He's got his wits about +him; knows how to sail a boat and splice a rope. That's the sort they +want in the Navy, I suppose. <i>He</i>'ll make his way, never fear. +Think how you'll trot him out when he comes home on leave. Why, they +say a Devon man's proper place is the Navy." +</p> + +<p> +"Iss, they du. <i>I</i> should ha' been there meself if it hadn' been +for the rheumatics—jest about coming out on a pension now, or in the +coastguards. I <i>be</i> in the Royal Naval Reserve, but I ain't smart +enough, like, for the Navy. The boy...." +</p> + +<p> +"He's as smart and strong as they make 'em." +</p> + +<p> +"Aye! he's smart, or cude be, but he'll hae to mind what he's a-doin' +there. <i>They</i> won't put up wi' no airs like he've a-give'd me. +Yu've got to du what yu'm told, sharp, an' yu mustn't luke [look] what +yu thinks, let 'lone say it, or else yu'll find yourself in chokey +[cells] 'fore yu knows where yu are. 'Tis like walking on a six-inch +plank, in the Navy, full o' rules an' regylations; an' he won't get fed +like he was at home nuther, when us had it." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"> +<i>GROG AS A SLEEPING DRAUGHT</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Why don't you go to bed and sleep, Tony?" +</p> + +<p> +"How can I sleep wi' me head full o' what the boy's thinking o'it all!" +</p> + +<p> +More walking and he calmed down a little. +</p> + +<p> +"Come and have some hot grog for a sleeping draught, Tony, and then go +home to bed." +</p> + +<p> +"Had us better tu?" +</p> + +<p> +"Come along, man; then if you go straight to bed you'll sleep." +</p> + +<p> +"I on'y wish I cude. The boy must be turned in by this time. 'Tis like +as if I got a picture of him in my mind, where he is, an' he ain't +happy—<i>I</i> knows." +</p> + +<p> +When Tony went down the narrow roadway, homewards, he had had just the +amount of grog to make him sleep: no more, no less. That father's +grief—the boy gone to sea, the father left stranded ashore—it was bad +to listen to. While going up town, I wondered with how much sorrow the +Navy is recruited. We look on our sailors rather less fondly than on +the expensive pieces of machinery we send them to sea in. I don't think +I shall ever again be able to regard the Navy newspaper-fashion. It +seems as if someone of mine belongs to it.... +</p> + +<p> +Lucky George! to be so much missed. +</p> + +<p> +This morning, when I saw Tony on the Front, he was more than a little +awkward; looked shyly at me, from under his peaked cap, as if to read +in my face what I thought of him. He had slept after all, and spoke of +the hot grog as a powerful, strange invention, new to him as a sleeping +draught. When, in talking, I said that I have only a back bedroom and a +fripperied sitting room, and that my old lodgings do not please me as +they used to, he clapped me on the shoulder with a jollity intended, I +think, to put last night out of my mind. "What a pity yu hadn't let we +know yu cuden't find lodgings to your liking. Us got a little room in +house where they sends people sometimes from the Alexandra Hotel when +they'm full up. My missis 'ould du anything to make 'ee comfor'able. Yu +an't never see'd her, have 'ee? Nice little wife, I got. Yu let us know +when yu be coming thees way again; that is, if yu don' mind coming wi' +the likes o' us. We won't disturb 'ee." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A NOISY PLACE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Good fellow! It was his thanks. However I shall be going home +to-morrow. Tony Widger lives, I believe, somewhere down the Gut, in +Under Town, a place they call the Seacombe slum. You can see a horde of +children pouring in and out of the Gut all day long, and in the evening +the wives stand at the seaward end of it, to gossip and await their +husbands. Noisy place.... +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +II +</p> + + +<p class="right"> +<span class="sc">Salisbury</span>,<br> +<i>July</i>. +</p> + +<p> +A card from Tony Widger: +</p> +<div class="blockquote"> +<p> +Dear Sir in reply to your letter I have let to the hotel which is full +for the 28th july until the 6<sup>th</sup> Aus, but I have one little +room to the back but you did not say about the time it would take you +to walk down also John to Saltmeadow have let so you can have that room +if you can manage or you can see when you come down their are a lot of +People in Seacombe or you write and let me know and I will see if I can +get rooms for you if you tell me about the time you will be hear from +yours Truly Anthony Widger. +</p> +</div> +<p> +Risky; but never mind. There is always the sea. It is something to have +the certainty of a bed at the end of a long day's tramp. Besides, I +want to see Tony, and George too, if by chance he is at home. And there +may be a little fishing. And— +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>And stepping westward seems to be</p> +<p>A kind of <i>heavenly</i> destiny.</p></div></div> + +<p> +That's the real feeling at the back of my mind. <i>I want</i> to go +west, towards the sunset; over Dartmoor, towards Land's End, where the +departing ships go down into the sea. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +III +</p> + + +<p class="right"> +<span class="sc">Seacombe</span>,<br> +<i>July-August</i>. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +1 +</p> + +<p> +After a hundred miles of dusty road, it is good to snuff the delicately +salted air. The bight of the Exe, where we crossed it by steam launch, +was only a make-believe for the sea. How wonderfully the slight +rippling murmur of a calm sea flows into, and takes possession of one's +mind. +</p> + +<p> +I stood by the shore and watched the boats, and was very peaceful. Then +I went down the Gut to the house that I guessed was Anthony Widger's. +Many children watched me with their eyes opened wide at my knapsack. A +pleasant looking old woman—short, stout, charwoman-shaped—came out of +the passage just as I raised my hand to knock the open door. "Are you +Mrs Widger?" said I. +</p> + +<p> +"Lor' bless 'ee! I ben't Mrs Widger. Here, Annie! Here's a gen'leman to +see 'ee." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger, the afternoon Mrs Widger, is a quite slim woman +who—strangely enough for a working man's wife—looks a good deal +younger than she is. She has rather beautiful light brown hair and +dresses tastefully. I am afraid she will not feel complimented if the +old woman tells her of my mistake. +</p> + +<p> +Her manner of receiving me indicated plainly a suspended judgment, +inclined perhaps towards the favourable. I was shown my room, a little +long back room, with ragged wall-paper, and almost filled up by a huge, +very flat, squashy bed. After a wash-over (I did not ask for a bath for +fear of exposing the lack of one) I went down to tea. +</p> + +<p> +Bread, jam and cream were put before me, together with fairly good hot +tea from a blue, smoky, enamelled tin teapot which holds any quantity +up to a couple of quarts. Mrs Widger turned two guernseys, a hat, +several odd socks, and a boot out of a great chintz-covered chair which +lacked one of its arms. To my <i>made</i> conversation she replied +shortly: +</p> + +<p> +"Dear me!" "My!" "Did you ever...." She was taking stock of me. +</p> + +<p> +Presently she went to a cupboard, which is also the coal-hole, and +brought out an immense frying-pan, black both inside and out. She +heated it till the fat ran; wiped out it with a newspaper; then placed +in it three split mackerel. "For Tony's tea," she explained. "He's to +sea now with two gen'lemen, but I 'spect he'll be in house sune." +</p> + +<p> +Voices from the passage: "Mam! Tay! Mam, I wants my tay!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>TEA-TIME</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +A deeper voice: "Missis, wer's my tay? Got ort nice to eat?" +</p> + +<p> +It was Tony himself, accompanied by a small boy and a slightly larger +small girl. +</p> + +<p> +"Hullo, sir! Yu'm come then. Do 'ee think you can put up wi' our little +shanty? Missis ought to ha' laid for 'ee in the front room. Us got a +little parlour, you know.—I be so wet as a drownded corpse, Missis!" +</p> + +<p> +The two children stood on the other side of the table, staring at me as +if I were a wild beast behind bars which they scarcely trusted. "'Tis a +gen'leman!" exclaimed the girl. +</p> + +<p> +"Coo'h!" the boy ejaculated. +</p> + +<p> +Tony turned on them with make-believe anger: "Why don' 'ee git yer tay? +Don' 'ee know 'tis rude to stare?" +</p> + +<p> +"Now then, you children," Mrs Widger continued in a strident voice, +buttering two hunks of bread with astonishing rapidity. "Take off thic +hat, Mabel. <i>Sit</i> down, Jimmy." +</p> + +<p> +"Coo'h! Jam!" said Jimmy. "Jam zide plaate, like the gen'leman, please, +Mam Widger." +</p> + +<p> +"When you've eat that." +</p> + +<p> +I never saw children munch so fast. +</p> + +<p> +Tony took off his boots and stockings, and wrung out the ends of his +trousers upon the hearth-rug. He pattered to the oven; opened the door; +sniffed. +</p> + +<p> +"Her's got summat for my tay, I can see. What is it, Missis? Fetch it +out——quick, sharp! Mackerel! Won' 'ee hae one, sir? Ther's plenty +here." +</p> + +<p> +Whilst Mrs Widger was helping him to the rest of his food, he ate the +mackerel with his fingers. Finally, he soaked up the vinegar with +bread, licked his finger-tips and turned towards me. "Yu'm in the +courting chair, sir. That's where me an' Missis used to sit when we was +courting, en' it, Annie? Du 'ee see how we've a-broke the arm? When yu +gets a young lady, us'll lend 'ee thic chair. Didn' know as I'd got a +little wife like thees yer, did 'ee? Ay, Annie!" +</p> + +<p> +He turned round and chucked her under the chin. +</p> + +<p> +"G'out, you dirty cat!" cried Mrs Widger, flinging herself back in the +chair—yet not displeased. +</p> + +<p> +It was a pretty playful sight, although Mrs Widger's voice is rather +like a newspaper boy's when she raises it. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +2 +</p> + +<p> +This morning, when I arrived downstairs, the kitchen was all of a +caddle. Children were bolting their breakfast, seated and afoot; were +washing themselves and being washed; were getting ready and being got +ready for school. Mrs Widger looked up from stitching the seat of a +small boy's breeches <i>in situ</i>. "I've a-laid your breakfast in the +front room." +</p> + +<p> +Thither I went with a book and no uncertain feeling of disappointment. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>BREAKFAST IN THE PARLOUR</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The front room looks out upon Alexandra Square. It is, at once, +parlour, lumber room, sail and rope store, portrait gallery of +relatives and ships, and larder. It is a veritable museum of the +household treasures not in constant use, and represents pretty +accurately, I imagine, the extent to which Mrs Widger's house-pride is +able to indulge itself. But I have had enough at Salisbury of eating my +meals among best furniture and in the (printed) company of great minds. +The noise in the kitchen sounded jolly. Now or never, I thought. So +after breakfast, I returned to the kitchen and asked for what bad +behaviour I was banished to the front room. +</p> + +<p> +"Lor'! If yu don't mind this. On'y 'tis all up an' down here...." +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +3 +</p> + +<p> +I went yesterday to see my old landlady at Egremont Villas. She asked +me where I was lodging. +</p> + +<p> +"At Tony Widger's, in Alexandra Square." +</p> + +<p> +"Why, that's in Under Town." +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, in Under Town." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, law! I can't think how you can live in such a horrid place!" +</p> + +<p> +On my assuring her that it was not so very horrid, she rearranged her +silken skirts on the chair (a chair too ornamentally slight for her +weight) and tilted up her nose. "I must get and lay the table," she +said, "for a lady and gentleman that's staying with me. <i>Very</i> +nice people." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>ALEXANDRA SQUARE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Under Town has, in fact, an indifferent reputation among the elect. Not +that it is badly behaved; far from it. The shallow-pated resent its not +having drawn into line with their cheap notions of progress. If Under +Town had put plate-glass windows into antique buildings.... Visitors to +Seacombe, not being told, hardly so much as suspect the existence of +its huddled old houses and thatched cottages. The shingle-paved Gut +runs down unevenly from the Shore Road between a row of tall lodging +houses and the Alexandra Hotel, then opens out suddenly into a little +square which contains an incredible number of recesses and sub-corners, +so to speak, with many more doors in them than one can discover houses +belonging to the doors. Two cottages, I am told, have no ground floors +at all. Cats sun themselves on walls or squat about gnawing fish bones. +A houdan cockerel with bedraggled speckly plumage and a ragged crest +hanging over one eye struts from doorstep to doorstep. The children, +when any one strange walks through the Square, run like rabbits in a +warren to their respective doors; stand there, and stare. Tony Widger's +house is the largest. Once, when Under Town was Seacombe, a lawyer +lived here—hence the front passage. It has a cat-trodden front garden, +in which only wall-flowers and some box edging have survived. Over the +front door is a broken trellis-work porch. Masts and spars lean against +the wall. The house is built of red brick, straight up and down like an +overgrown doll's house, but the whole of the wall is weathered and +toned by the southerly gales which blow down the Gut from the open sea. +Those same winds see to it that Alexandra Square does not smell +squalid, however it may look. At its worst it is not so depressing as a +row of discreet semi-detached villas. It is, I should imagine, a pretty +accurate mirror of the lives that are lived in it—poor men's lives +that scarcely anybody fathoms. If one looks for a moment at a house +where people have starved, or are starving.... What a gift of hope they +must possess—and what a sinking in their poor insides! +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +4 +</p> + +<p> +This morning they told me how my little hunchbacked Commodore died. He +had been ailing, they said; had come to look paler and more pinched in +his small sharp face. Then (it was a fisherman who told me this): "He +was in to house one morning, an' I thought as 'e were sleepin', an' I +said, 'Harry, will 'ee hae a cup o' tay; yu been sleeping an't 'ee?' +An' 'e says, 'No, I an't; but I been sort o' dreaming.' An' 'e said as +he'd see'd a green valley wi' a stream o' water, like, running down the +middle o' it, an' 'e thought as 'e see'd Granfer there (that us losted +jest before 'en) walking by the stream. A'terwards 'e sat on 's +mother's lap, like 's if 'e wer a child again, though 'e wer nearly +nineteen all but in size; an' 'e jest took an' died there, suddent an' +quiet like; went away wi'out a word; an' us buried 'en last January up +to the cementry on land." +</p> + +<p> +So the <i>Moondaisy</i>'s luckiest fisherman packed up and went. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +5 +</p> + +<p> +It is astonishing how hungry and merry these children are, especially +the boys. They rush into the kitchen at meal times and immediately make +grabs at whatever they most fancy on the table. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MAN AND GEN'LEMAN</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Yu little cat!" says their mother, always as if she had never +witnessed such behaviour before. "Yu daring rascal! Put down! I'll gie +thee such a one in a minute. Go an' sit down to once." Then they climb +into chairs, wave their grubby hands over the plates, in a pretence of +grabbing something more, and spite of the whacks which sometimes fall, +they gobble their food to the accompaniment of incessant tricks and +roars of shrill laughter. Never were such disorderly, hilarious meals! +If Tony is here they simply laugh at his threats of weird punishment, +and if he comes in late from sea, they return again with him and make a +second meal as big as the first. Sometimes, unless the food is cleared +away quickly, they will clamour for a third meal, and clamour +successfully. What digestions they must have to gobble so much and so +fast! +</p> + +<p> +To judge by their way of talking, they divide the world into folk and +gentlefolk. "Who gie'd thee thic ha'penny?" Mrs Widger asked Jimmy. +</p> + +<p> +"A man, to beach." +</p> + +<p> +"G'out!" said Mabel. "Twas a gen'leman." +</p> + +<p> +"Well...." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, that ain't a <i>man</i>!" +</p> + +<p> +Usually, at breakfast time, the voices of Tony's small nieces may be +heard coming down the passage: "Aun-tieAnn-ie! Aunt-ieAnn-ie!" Their +tousled, tow-coloured little heads peep round the doorway. If we have +not yet finished eating, they are promptly ordered to 'get 'long home +to mother.' Otherwise, they come right in and remain standing in the +middle of the room, apparently to view me. Unable to remember which is +Dora and which Dolly, I have nicknamed them according to their hair, +Straighty and Curley. What they think of things, there is no knowing; +for they blush at direct questions and turn their heads away. So also, +when I have been going in and out of the Square, they have stopped +their play to gaze at me, but have merely smiled shyly, if at all, in +answer to my greetings. Yesterday, however, they had a skipping rope. I +jumped over it. Instantly there was a chorus of laughter and chatter. +The ice was broken. This morning, after a moment or two's consideration +behind her veil of unbrushed hair, Straighty came and clambered upon +the arm of the courting chair—dabbed a clammy little hand down my +neck, whilst Curley plumped her fist on my knee and stayed looking into +my face with very wondering smiling blue eyes. By the simple act of +jumping a rope, I had gained their confidence; had proved I was really +a fellow creature, I suppose. Now, when I pass through the Square, some +small boy is sure to call out, "Where yu going?" And my name is +brandished about among the children as if I were a pet animal. They +have appropriated me. They have tamed that mysterious wild beast, 'the +gen'leman.' +</p> + +<p> +One boy, Jimmy—a very fair-headed, blue-eyed, chubby little chap, +seven years old—Tony's eldest boy at home—seems to have taken a +particular fancy to me. Whether it began with bananas, or with my +giving him a pick-a-back to the top of the cliffs, I hardly know. At +all events he has decided that I am a desirable friend. He has shown me +his small properties—his pencil, and his boats that he makes out of a +piece of wood with wing-feathers for sails and a piece of tin, stuck +into the bottom, for centre-keel;—has told me what standard he is in +at school; and one of the first things I hear whenever he comes into +the house, is: "Mam! Wher's Mister Ronals?" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>JIMMY OUT TO TEA</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +To-day, on my way to the Tuckers' to tea, I passed Jimmy's school. The +boys were just let loose. Jimmy left a yelling group of them to come +along with me. Nearby the Tuckers' gate, I told him where I was going, +and said <i>Good-bye</i>. Jimmy fell behind. But whilst we were at tea, +I repeatedly saw a white head sneaking round the laurels outside the +window, and blue eyes peeping. Miss Tucker had him in; whereupon, +rather shyly, with hands horribly grubby from the school slates, Jimmy +ate much bread and butter and many cakelets, and ended up by tucking +three apples into his blouse. He came home very pleased indeed with +himself. +</p> + +<p> +Tony was almost angry. "However come'd 'ee, Missis, to let 'em go out +to a gen'leman's to tay in thic mess?" +</p> + +<p> +"Stupid! How cude I help o'it?" +</p> + +<p> +"What did 'ee think o'it, Jimmy?" +</p> + +<p> +"The lady gie'd I dree apples!" +</p> + +<p> +Tony, though shocked, was also pleased; Jimmy delighted. Every now and +then he draws himself up with a "Coo'h! I been out to tay wi' Mister +Ronals!" +</p> + +<p> +They have a strange way, these children, of placing their hands on one, +smiling up into one's face, and saying nothing. It has the effect of +making one feel their separate, distinct personalities, and, +additionally, of making one feel rather proud of the approbation of +those small personages who think so much and divulge so little. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +6 +</p> + +<p> +There has been no fishing. Either the sea has been too rough to ride to +a slingstone<a href="#note1" name="noteref1"><sup>1</sup></a> for blinn and conger, or else too calm, so that the +mackerel hookers<a href="#note2" name="noteref2"><sup>2</sup></a> could not sail out and therefore no fresh bait was +to be had. It is quite useless to fish for conger with stale bait. Tony +tells me that I ought to be here in a month's time, when he will have +fewer pleasure parties to attend to, and will go out for mackerel, +rowing if he cannot sail. He says there will <i>have</i> to be a good +September hooking season, because, though the summer has been fair, the +fisherfolk have not succeeded in putting by enough money to last out +the winter, should the herrings fail to come into the bay, as they have +failed the last few years. I should like to <i>work</i> at the mackerel +hooking with him. Indeed, although I am looking forward to a glorious +tramp across Dartmoor, yet I am more than half sorry that I have a room +bespoken at Prince Town for the day after to-morrow. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>AN INOPPORTUNE REMARK</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Putting aside one or two things that are unpleasant—a few +disagreeables resolutely faced—it is wonderful how rapidly one feels +at home here. The welcome, the goodfellowship, is so satisfying. This +morning, the visitor from the hotel, who has Mrs Widger's front room, +so far presumed on the fact that we were educated men among +uneducated—both gen'lemen, Tony would say—as to remark flippantly +though not ungenially, "The Widgers are not bad sorts, are they? I say, +what a mouth Mrs Widger's got!" +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger has a noticeably wide mouth; I know that perfectly well; but +I can hardly say how indignant I felt at his light remark; how +insulted; as if he had spoken slightingly of someone belonging to me. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +IV +</p> + + +<p class="right"><span class="sc">Prince Town</span>,<br> +<i>August</i>. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +1 +</p> + +<p> +When I took leave of the Widgers, there was the question of payment for +my board and lodging. We were just finishing breakfast; the children +had been driven out, Mrs Widger was resting awhile, and the table, the +whole kitchen, was in extreme disorder. +</p> + +<p> +I asked Mrs Widger what I owed, and, as I had expected, she replied +only: "What you'm minded to pay." +</p> + +<p> +"Three and six a day," I suggested. +</p> + +<p> +"Not so much as that," said Mrs Widger. "'Tisn't like as if us could du +for 'ee like a proper lodging house." +</p> + +<p> +"Don' 'ee think, Missis," said Tony, "as we might ask 'en jest to make +hisself welcome." +</p> + +<p> +It was out of the question, of course. The mackerel season has been so +bad. Mrs Widger shot at Tony a look he failed to see. Otherwise, she +did not let herself appear to have heard him. +</p> + +<p> +The discussion hung. +</p> + +<p> +"Say three shillings, then," I suggested again. +</p> + +<p> +"That 'll du," returned Mrs Widger, allowing nothing of the last few +minutes' brain-work to show itself in her voice. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>HOTEL LIFE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger knows what it is to have to keep house and feed several +hungry children on earnings which vary from fairly large sums (sums +whose very largeness calls for immediate spending) to nothing at all +for weeks together. +</p> + +<p> +As I was setting out, Jimmy said to his mother: "Don' 'ee let Mister +Ronals go, Mam 'Idger." He followed me to the end of the Gut; would +have come farther had I not sent him back. That, and Tony's desire to +make me welcome, brightened the bright South Devon sunshine. I kept +within sight of the sea as long as possible. The little sailing boats +on it looked so nimble. I have a leaning to go back, a sort of +hunger.... +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +2 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>DAWDLING v. WALKING</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +I don't think I can remain here. To-morrow I shall move on, and tramp +around the county back to Seacombe. The Moor is as splendid as ever, +but this hotel life, following so soon on the life of Under Town.... +Though the good, well-cooked food, neither so greasy nor so starchy as +Mrs Widger's, is an agreeable change, I sit at the table d'hôte and +rage within. I am compelled to hear a conversation that irritates me +almost beyond amusement at it. These people here are on holiday. Most +of them, by their talk, were never on anything else. They chirp in +lively or bored fashion, as the case may be, of the things that don't +matter, of the ornamentations, the superfluities and the relaxations of +life. At Tony Widger's they discuss—and much more merrily—the things +that do matter; the means of life itself. Here, they say: "Is the table +d'hôte as good as it might be? Is the society what it might be? Is it +not a pity that there is no char-à-banc or a motor service to Cranmere +Pool and Yes Tor?" There, the equivalent question is: "Shall us hae +money to go through the winter? Shall us hae bread and scrape to eat?" +Here, a man wonders if in the strong moorland air some slight +non-incapacitating ailment will leave him: illness is inconvenient and +disappointing, but not ruinous. There, Tony wonders if the exposure and +continual boat-hauling are not taking too much out of him; if he is not +ageing before his time; if he will not be past earning before the +younger children are off his hands. Here, they laugh at trifles, +keeping what is serious behind a veil of conventional manners, lest, +appearing in broad daylight, it should damp their spirits. There, they +laugh too, and at countless trifles; but also courageously, in the face +of fate itself. By daring Nemesis, they partially disarm her. With a +laugh and a jest—no matter if it be a raucous laugh and a coarse +jest—they assert: "What will be, will be; us can't but du our best, +for 'tis the way o'it." Here, they skate over a Dead Sea upon the ice +of convention; but there, they swim in the salted waters, swallow great +gulps, and nevertheless strike out manfully, knowing no more than +anyone else exactly where the shore lies, yet possessing, I think, an +instinct of direction. Here, comfort is at stake: there, existence. +Coming here is like passing from a birth and death chamber into a +theatre, where, if the actors have lives of their own, apart from +mummery, it is their business not to show them. It is like watching a +game from the grand stand, instead of playing it; betting on a race +instead of running it. The transition hither is hard to make. Retired +athletes, we know, suffer from fatty degeneration of the heart; retired +men of affairs decay. I have walked lately at five miles an hour with +the Widgers, and I do not relish dawdling at the rate of two with these +people here. Better risk hell for heaven than lounge about paradise for +ever. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +V +</p> + + +<p class="right"> +<span class="sc">Under Town, Seacombe</span>,<br> +<i>September</i>. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +1 +</p> + +<p> +A fine tramp from Totnes—and such a welcome back! Jimmy met me +three-quarters of a mile up the road, very much farther than he usually +strays from the beach. "I thought as yu was coming this way 'bout now, +Mister Ronals. Dad's been out hooking an' catched five dozen mackerel +before breakfast. Mam's sick. I be coming out wiv yu t'morrow morning. +Dad couldn't go out after breakfast, 'cause it come'd on to blow. I've +'schanged my pencil, what yu give'd me, for a knife wi' two blades." So +anxious was he to take me in house that he scarcely allowed me time to +go down to the Front and look at the sea and at the boats lying among a +litter of nets and gear the length of the sunny beach. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger hastened to bring out the familiar big enamelled teapot, +flung the cloth over the table and began to cut bread and butter. +"Coo'h! tay!" exclaimed Jimmy. "That's early, 'cause yu be come, Mister +Ronals." +</p> + +<p> +"Be yu glad Mr Ronals 's come back?" his mother asked. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE CHILDREN</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Iss...." +</p> + +<p> +"What for?" I asked jocularly. +</p> + +<p> +"'Cause yu gives us bananas—an' pennies sometimes." +</p> + +<p> +"'Sthat all yu'm glad for?" said Mrs Widger. "Pennies an' bananas?" +</p> + +<p> +"No vear!" said Jimmy; and he meant it. +</p> + +<p> +All the while, Tommy (Jimmy's younger brother, about five years old) +was sitting up to table, looking at the jam-jar with one eye and at me +with the other. He squints most comically, and is a more self-contained +young person than Jimmy. Four of the children are at home; Bessie, +Mabel, Jimmy and Tommy; George and the eldest girl are away. Bessie and +Mabel, too, are out the greater part of the day, either at school, or +else helping their aunts, or minding babies (poor little devils!), or +running errands for the many relatives who live hereabout. Both of them +are more featureless, show less of the family likeness, than the boys. +One cannot so easily forecast their grown-up appearance. At times, +during the day, they come in house with a rush, but say little, except +to blurt out some (usually inaccurate) piece of news, or to tell their +step-mother that: "Thic Jimmy's out to baych—I see'd 'en—playin' wi' +some boys, an' he's got his boots an' stockings so wet as...." +</p> + +<p> +"Jest let 'en show his face in here! <i>He</i> shan't hae no tea! He +shall go straight to bed!" shouts Mrs Widger, confident that hunger +will eventually drive Jimmy into her clutches. +</p> + +<p> +The two girls, in fact, do not seem to enter so fully as the boys into +the life of the household, though they are always very ready to take up +the responsibility of keeping the boys in order. +</p> + +<p> +"Jimmy! Tommy—there! Mother, look at thic Jimmy! Mother, Tommy's +fingering they caakes!" +</p> + +<p> +"I'll gie thee such a one in a minute! Let 'lone.... Ther thee a't, +Mabel, doin' jest the same, 's if a gert maid like yu didn't ought to +know better." +</p> + +<p> +"Did 'ee ever hear the like o'it?" asks Tony. "Such a buzz! Shut up, +will 'ee, or <i>I'll</i> gie thee summut to buzz for! Wher's thic +stick?" +</p> + +<p> +The children merely laugh at him. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +2 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>TONY'S WEDDING</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +At supper to-night, Tony was talking about his second wedding and about +his children, who, dead and alive, number twelve. "Iss, 'tis a round +dozen, though I'd never ha' thought it," he said reckoning them up on +his fingers. "Ther be six living an' four up to the cementry, an' two +missing, like, what nobody didn' know nort about, did they, Annie? +Janie—that's my first wife, afore this one,—her losted three boys +when they was two year an' ten months old, an' one year an' seven +months, an' nine months old. An' her died herself when Mabel here was +six months old, didn' 'er, Annie? An' yu've a-losted Rosie, an' the +ones what never appeared in public. Our last baby, after Tommy, wer two +boys, twinses. One wer like George an' one like Tommy most; one wer my +child an' t'other wer yours, Annie. Six on 'em dead! Aye, Tony've a +see'd some trouble, I can tell 'ee, an' he ain't so old as what some on +'em be for their age, now, thru it all. But it du make a man's head +turn like." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger's gaze at him while he talked about the dead children was +wonderful to see—wide-eyed, soft, unflinching—wifely and motherly at +once. +</p> + +<p> +"John," Tony continued, speaking of his youngest brother who has only +two children, "John du say as a man what's got seven or eight childern +be better off than a man what's got on'y two, like he, 'cause he don't +spend so much on 'em. 'Tis rot, I say! Certainly, he du spend so much +on each o' his as us du on two o' ours p'raps; but I reckon a hundred +pounds has to be wrenched an' hauled out o' these yer ol' rheumaticy +arms o' mine for each child as us rears up." +</p> + +<p> +"Yes—'t has—gude that," said Mrs Widger. +</p> + +<p> +"'Tisn' that I don' du it willingly. I be willing enough. But it du +maake a man du more'n he'd hae to du otherwise, an' it wears 'en out +afore his time. Tony's an ol' man now, almost, after the rate, though +he bain't but forty or thereabout, an' s'pose us has six or a dozen +more come along, Annie...." +</p> + +<p> +"Gude Lord! 'Twon't be so bad as that, for sure. An' if 'tis, can't be +helped. Us must make shift wi' 'em." +</p> + +<p> +Then they went on to talk about their wedding. Best remembered, +apparently, are the <i>hot</i> wedding breakfast (an innovation then in +these parts), the Honiton lace that Mrs Widger's mother made her, and +the late arrival home from the village where they were married—a trick +which procured them quietness, whilst depriving the people in the +Square of an excitement they had stayed up half the night to witness. +"When us come'd home, 'twas all so dark and quiet as a dead plaace, an' +the chil'ern asleep upstairs, an' all," said Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, 'twer," Mrs Widger broke in, her eyes brightening at the +recollection of the successful trick. "But 'twer queer, like, wi' the +childern asleep upstairs what wer to be mine, an' wasn't. I did wonder +to meself what I wer starting on. Howsbe-ever I wer fair maazed all +thic day. <i>I</i> wasn' ready when Tony drove out to where us lived, +not I." +</p> + +<p> +"No-o-o! Her had her sleeves tucked up like 's if her 'adn't finished +her housework. Her wern't dressed nor nothin' to ree-ceive me." +</p> + +<p> +"I didn' know what I wer doing all thic day." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>LOVE-PLAY</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"An' the parson, <i>I</i> had to pay for he, an' he give'd the money +back to she 'cause her wer a nice li'I thing—bit skinny though. 'Twer +a maazed muddle like. <i>I</i> ought to ha' had thic money be rights." +</p> + +<p> +"G'out! But I did the ol' parson up here. Us didn' hae no banns put up +to Seacombe. I told the clergyman to our home that Tony'd been livin' +there dree days, or dree weeks, or whatever 'twas, an' <i>he</i> didn' +know no better. 'Twon't be the first lie I've told, says I to meself +n'eet [nor yet] the last. I saved thee thic money, Tony." +</p> + +<p> +"Ah, yu'm a saving dear, ben' 'ee. Spends all my money." +</p> + +<p> +"Well for yu! I should like to know what yu'd do wi' it if yu hadn't +had me to lay it out for 'ee." +</p> + +<p> +Tony did not wish to question that. The recollection of the wedding had +put him in high spirits. He got up from his second supper (so long as +food remains on the table he takes successive meals with intervals for +conversation between them), and pirouetted round the table singing, +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>"Sweet Ev-eli-na, sweet Ev-eli-na!</p> +<p>My lo-ove for yu-u</p> +<p>Shall nev-ver, never die...."</p></div></div> + +<p> +He dragged Mrs Widger out of her chair, whisked her across the room. +"There!" he said, setting her down flop. "'En't her a perty li'I dear!" +</p> + +<p> +Once again, after another little supper, he got up and held Mrs Widger +firmly by the chin, she kicking out at his shins the while. "Did 'ee +ever see the like o'it? Eh? Fancy ol' Tony marryin' thic! Wouldn' 'ee +like a kiss o'it? I du dearly. Don' I, Missis?" +</p> + +<p> +"G'out!" says Mrs Widger, speaking furiously, but smiling affectionately. +"G'out, you fule! Yu'm mazed!" +</p> + +<p> +Tony returned to his third supper quite seriously, only remarking: "I +daresay yu thinks Tony a funny ol' fule, don' 'ee?" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>BIRTH IN THE SQUARE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +That, I did not. Indeed, I begin to think them peculiarly wise. There +is the spontaneity of animals about their play, and a good deal of the +unembarassed movements of animals—with something very human +superadded. One reads often enough about the love-light in the eyes of +lovers, and sometimes one catches sight of it. Either frank ridicule, +or else great reverence, is the mood for witnessing so delicate and +strong, so racial a thing. Yet this love-light, seen in the eyes of a +man and wife who have been married ten years, and have settled down +long ago to the humdrum of married life, seems to me a far finer +manifestation of the hither mysteries, a far greater triumph. What +freshness, what perpetual rejuvenation they must possess! The more one +regards such a thing, the more magnificent and far-reaching it appears. +No philosophical bulwark against trouble can compare with it. Such love +ceases to be a matter for novels and selected moments and certain lusty +ages; ceases to be exceptional. It is the greatest of those very great +things, the commonplaces. Tony tells me that when he comes in at night, +cold from fishing, Mrs Widger always turns over to the other side of +the bed, leaving him a warm place to creep into. Mrs Widger says that +no matter what time Tony comes in or gets up, he never fails to make, +and take her up, a cup o' tay. So does their love direct the prosaic +details of living in one house together. I do not think I am wrong in +fancying that it percolates right down through the household, and even +contributes to the restfulness I feel here, spite of unorderly children +and the strident voices. "Yu dang'd ol' fule!" can mean so much. Here +it appears to be an expression of almost limitless confidence. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger has put me this time into the front bedroom, which overlooks +the Square and has, through the Gut, a narrow view of the sea. +</p> + +<p> +Tony's sister, who lives almost next door, is giving birth to a child +this evening. I can see the light in her window—a brighter light than +usual,—and the shadows passing across the yellow blind. Many other +eyes are turned towards the window. There is a subdued chatter in the +Square. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +3 +</p> + +<p> +Little did I foresee what sleeping in the front bedroom means. Tony's +sister gave birth to a boy about ten o'clock. On hearing that +everything was as it should be, I went to bed, but, alack! not to +sleep. For the subdued chatter grew into an uproar which continued till +fully midnight. All the women in the neighbourhood seemed to have come +this way; and they meg-megged, and they laughed, and when their +children awoke they shouted up at the windows from outside. I heard +snatches of childbearing adventures, astonishing yarns, interspersed +with hard commonsense, not to say cynicism—the cynicism of people who +cannot afford to embroider much the bare facts of existence or to turn +their attention far from the necessities of life. "Her'll be weak," one +woman said, "an' for a long time—never so strong as her was before. +'Tis always worse after each one you has, 'cepting the first, which is +worst of all, I say. But there, her must take it as it comes...." +</p> + +<p> +Sundry other bits of good practical philosophy I perforce listened to; +and at last, when everybody had turned in (I imagined their pleasant +lightheadedness as they snuggled under the bedclothes in the stuffy +cottage rooms—the witticisms and echoes of laughter that were running +through their heads); when, I say, everybody had turned in, an offended +dog in the hotel yard began to howl. +</p> + +<p> +If it were not that the window of the back bedroom is over the +scullery, the ash-heap and the main drain, I would ask to move back +there. +</p> + +<p> +In Under Town a birth makes the stir that is due to such a stupendous +event. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +4 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE KITCHEN</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The Widger's kitchen is an extraordinary room—fit shrine for that +household symbol, the big enamelled tin teapot. At the NW. corner is +the door to the scullery and to the small walled-in garden which +contains—in order of importance—flotsam and jetsam for firewood, old +masts, spars and rudders, and some weedy, grub-eaten vegetables. At the +top of the garden is a tumble-down cat-haunted linhay, crammed to its +leaky roof with fishing gear. No doubt it is the presence everywhere of +boat and fishing gear which gives such a singular unity to the whole +place. +</p> + +<p> +The kitchen is not a very light room: its low small-paned window is in +the N. wall. Then, going round the room, the courting chair stands in +the NE. corner, below some shelves laden with fancy china and +souvenirs—and tackle. The kitchener, which opens out into quite a +comforting fireplace, is let into the E. wall, and close beside it is +the provision cupboard, so situated that the cockroaches, having ample +food and warmth, shall wax fat and multiply. Next, behind a low dirty +door in the S. wall, is the coalhole, then the high dresser, and then +the door to the narrow front passage, beneath the ceiling of which are +lodged masts, spars and sails. The W. wall of the kitchen is decorated +with Tony's Oddfellow 'cistificate,' with old almanacs and with a +number of small pictures, all more or less askew. +</p> + +<p> +There is an abundance of chairs, most of them with an old cushion on +the seat, all of them more or less broken by the children's racket. +Over the pictures on the warm W. wall—against which, on the other +side, the neighbour's kitchener stands—is a line of clean +underclothing, hung there to air. The dresser is littered with fishing +lines as well as with dry provisions and its proper complement of odd +pieces of china. Beneath the table and each of the larger chairs are +boots and slippers in various stages of polish or decay. Every jug not +in daily use, every pot and vase, and half the many drawers, contain +lines, copper nails, sail-thimbles and needles, spare blocks and +pulleys, rope ends and twine. But most characteristic of the kitchen +(the household teapot excepted) are the navy-blue garments and jerseys, +drying along the line and flung over chairs, together with innumerable +photographs of Tony and all his kin, the greater number of them in +seafaring rig. +</p> + +<p> +Specially do I like the bluejacket photographs; magnificent men, some +of them, though one strong fellow looks more than comical, seated amid +the photographer's rustic properties with a wreath of artificial fern +leaves around him and a broadly smiling Jolly-Jack-Tar face protruding +from the foliage. Some battleships, pitching and tossing in fearful +photographers' gales<a href="#note3" name="noteref3"><sup>3</sup></a> and one or two framed memorial cards complete +the kitchen picture gallery. +</p> + +<p> +It is a place of many smells which, however, form a not disagreeable +blend. +</p> + +<p> +An untidy room—yes. An undignified room—no. Kitchen; scullery (the +scullery proper is cramped and its damp floor bad for the feet); eating +room; sitting room; reception room; storeroom; treasure-house; and at +times a wash-house,—it is an epitome of the household's activities and +a reflexion of the family's world-wide seafaring. Devonshire is the sea +county—at every port the Devonian dialect. It is probably the pictures +and reminders of the broad world which, by contrast, make Mrs Tony's +kitchen so very homely. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +5 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A DUTCH AUCTION</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Almost every evening, just now, Mrs Widger goes off to a Dutch auction +of hardware and trinkets at the Market House. She usually brings home +some small purchase, worth about half the money she has paid; but if +she were to go to an entertainment at the Seacombe Hall she would be +not nearly so well amused as by the auctioneer and the other +housewives, and at the end of the evening she would have nothing +whatever to show for her money. Besides, the children would never go +off to bed quietly if they imagined that she was going to a real +entertainment. As she did not return very early last night, Tony and I +got our own supper—bread, cheese, a great deal of Worcester sauce, and +a pint of mother-in-law [stout and bitter] from the Alexandra. Then we +drew up to the fire and smoked. John, healthy and powerful fellow, had +been arguing in the daytime on the beach, that if a youth cannot do a +man's work at seventeen, he never will. Tony disagreed. Twenty-five to +thirty-five, he says, is a man's prime for strength and endurance +together. Nevertheless, he is sure that he often did more than a man's +work long before he was seventeen, which led him to talk about his +boyhood, when Granfer and Gran Widger had frequently not enough food in +the house for their many children to eat. "Us had to rough it when I +wer a boy, I can tell 'ee," says Tony. "'Twer often bread an' a scraape +o' fat an' <i>Get 'long out o'it</i>!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>TONY'S DUTIES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +At nine years old, Tony was put with old Cloade, the grocer, now dead; +and by the time he was twelve, he was earning four shillings a week, +not a penny of which he ever saw or had as 'spending money'; for his +mother used to go to the shop every Saturday night and lay out all poor +Tony's wages in groceries. The only pocket-money he ever received was a +copper or two 'thrown back' from what he could earn by going to sea for +mackerel early enough to return to work by half-past six in the +morning. Besides running errands, he had to clean boots and knives and +to scrub out and tidy up the bar, which in those days was attached to +every Devon grocery. Then he could go home to breakfast. And if old +Cloade was going up on land, shooting, Tony had to get up and wake him +at half-past three and to cork bottles or something of that sort before +the master started out for his day's sport. And again, if Tony had +fallen foul of any of the shop assistants during the day, had cheeked +them perhaps, or stayed overlong at meals, then, waiting till closing +time at eight or nine in the evening, they would send him a couple of +miles inland, to the top of the hills, with a late parcel of groceries. +His possible working day was from 3.30 a.m. to 10.0 p.m. +</p> + +<p> +The chief part of his work, when he was not cleaning up or running +errands, was the sorting of fruit and the cracking of sugar. Every nail +of his fingers has come off more than once on account of the damage +done them by the sugar-cracker. Better than any national event, he +recollects the introduction of cube sugar. "When they tubs o' +ready-cracked sugar fust come'd down to Seacombe, 'twer thought a gert +thing—an' so 'twas." +</p> + +<p> +Nearly every year an attack of (sub-acute?) rheumatic fever gave him a +painful holiday, during which he crawled about the crowded cottage at +home on his hands and knees. The one advantage of his irregularly long +hours was that, if work were slack, he could linger over his meals. It +was the assistants who kept a sharp eye on his movements. Them he +hated—and cheeked. "The more I done, the worse they treated me. An' as +I grow'd up an' did often enough more'n a man's work, so I got to know +it. One day I stayed home more'n an hour to breakfast, an' one on 'em +asted me wer I'd a-been, an' I said as I'd had me half-hour to +breakfast, an' he said as I'd had an hour an' a half, an' I told 'en +'twern't no business o' his an' dared 'en to so much as touch me or I'd +knock his head in, which I could easily ha' done—an' there wer the +master standin' by! 'Fore I knowed, he gie'd me one under one yer wi' +one hand, an' one under t'other yer wi' t'other hand; knocked me half +silly; an' said if he had any more o' my chake he'd send me going +thereupon. 'Iss, I said, 'an I <i>will</i> go, an' if I can't pick up a +livin' on the baych wi' fishin' (I 'adn't no boats then, n'eet for +years a'ter), an' if I couldn't pick up a livin' wi' fishin', I'd go to +sea. An' I took an' lef the shop, an' went wi'out me pay due nor nort +further about it. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, I should think as I stayed away two or dree days, saying as, if +I couldn' live <i>by</i> the sea, I'd go off <i>tu</i> sea. By'm-by, +ol' Mr Cloade—I could al'ys get on all right wi' he hisself—'twer +they assistants.... Mr Cloade come'd down to baych an' said as he'd +rise me wages be two shillings, from four shillings to six a week. So I +went back. But 'twern't for long, for I wer turned seventeen then, an' +strong, an' I knowed that six shillin's a week, every penny o' which +mother laid out in groceries—p'raps givin' me dreepence for meself +latterly—that wern't no wage for me doing more'n a man's work, early +an' laate, at everybody's beck an' call. 'Twern't vitty. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>BRUISED ORANGES AND BRUISES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"It come'd soon a'ter.... I wer sorting oranges, an' one o' the +assistants called like they al'ays did: 'Widger, Widger! <i>Widger!</i> +Yer, Widger!' 'Twer al'ays, 'Widger! Widger!' in thic show—blarsted +row! 'I wants 'ee to take thees yer parcel to Mr Brindley-Botton's +(what used to live to Southview House) in time for lunch. Hurry up!'" +</p> + +<p> +Tony, in short, put a couple of the bruised oranges into his pocket, +ran off, and delivered his parcel at Southview House. On the way back, +he ate one of the oranges and, boyishly, threw the peel about outside +Mr Brindley-Botton's side gate. He heard someone shouting to him +and—but without turning his head—he shouted "Hell about it!" airily +back. Then, as it was the dinner hour, he loitered on the Green Patch +to play marbles with some other lads, and to share the second bruised +orange. On returning to Cloade's: +</p> + +<p> +"Whu did I see but Mr Brindley-Botton's coachman wi' a little packet in +white paper. 'Twas thic orange peel, all neatly done up, an' a li'I +note saying as I'd a-been cheeky to him, which I hadn't, not knowingly. +Mr Cloade, he called me into his little office, asted me what I'd been +doing, where I went, an' where I got the oranges. +</p> + +<p> +"'Bought 'em,' says I. +</p> + +<p> +"'Twas a lie, an' I hadn't no need for to tell it, seeing I was al'ays +free to take a bruised orange or two when I wer sorting of 'em. On'y I +wer frightened. 'Where did you get them?' he asked. +</p> + +<p> +"'Up to Mrs Ashford's for a penny,' says I. +</p> + +<p> +"'Did you?' +</p> + +<p> +"'Yes, sir,' says I. +</p> + +<p> +"'Are you telling me a lie? I can find out, mind.' +</p> + +<p> +"'No, sir,' I said. +</p> + +<p> +"'Be you sure you ain't telling of a lie?' +</p> + +<p> +"Then I broked down, an' I said they was bruised ones what I'd a-took. +Father, he wer working to Mr Cloade's then, fishing being bad, an' the +master called he. <i>He</i> walloped me—walloped me with a rope's end. +An' I swore as I'd never go back no more, an' I didn't. Every time +Father tried to make me, I up an' said as I'd go to sea. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>OUT DRIFTING ALL NIGHT</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Ay! for all I'm a man now, I 'ouldn't like to work like I did +then—more'n a man's work an' less'n a boy's pay, an' hardly a penny +for meself. I tells John <i>he</i> don't know what 'tis to work like I +did then. <i>I</i>'ouldn't du it no more." +</p> + +<p> +But, with his father's boat, Tony did work far harder—hooking mackerel +at dawn, in with a catch and out to sea again, or up on land hawking +them round; out drifting all night; crabbing, lobster-potting, +shrimping,<a href="#note4" name="noteref4"><sup>4</sup></a> wrinkling,<a href="#note5" name="noteref5"><sup>5</sup></a> or taking out frights,<a href="#note6" name="noteref6"><sup>6</sup></a> wet and dry, +rough and calm, day and night. "Aye, an' I be suffering from it now. +Thees yer bellyache what thins me every summer an' wears a fellow out, +don't come from nothing but tearing about then. I wer al'ays on the +tear, day an' night, in from sea to meals an' out again 'fore I'd had +time to bolt down two mouthfuls. Often I wer so tired that Father'd hae +to call me a dozen times afore I cude wake up, an' then I'd cry, +<i>cry</i>, if I wer ten minutes laate to work—when I had summut to du +on land, that was. Half the day I wer more asleep than awake, wi' bein' +out fishing all night. But I didn' let 'em see it. Not I! Rather'n +that, I'd go up to the closet an' catch off there for five minutes, +before they shude see I wern't fit to du me work. An' I never had nort +o' me own for years, for all I done. Whether I earned two pound, or +thirty shillings, or nothing at all, I never had so much as a penny for +pocket-money, to call me own. I had to take it all in house—aye! an' +tips too, when I got 'em. Father, he wern't doing much then, an' ther +were seven younger'n me. That's where my earnings went. An' me, as did +the work, was wearing Mother's boots an' Father's jacket." +</p> + +<p> +When Tony was indisputably grown up, one half of what he earned went, +according to custom, to the boat-owner, in this case his father, +frequently had be thu to pay for repairs and new gear. That went on for +years after he was married—'hauling an' rowing an' slaving an' pulling +me guts out wi't!'—until, in fact, the present Mrs Widger insisted on +his buying boats of his own. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE DEAD NOT WHOLLY SO</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Our talk shifted to Tony's first wife, who died (and Tony almost died +too) as the result of the landlord's taking up the drains, and leaving +them open, in the height of a hot summer. Tony told me about her people +and her native place, a fishing village along the coast. He showed me +photographs of her, and a framed, pathetically ugly, imitation cameo +memorial, which is getting very dirty now. I knew he loved her very +much. He nearly went out of his mind when she died, leaving him with +four young children. The untidy little kitchen, with its bright fire, +its deep shadows and its white clothes hung along the line; Tony's +drooping figure, bent over the hearth in an old blue guernsey: the +contrasting redness of his face, and the beam of light from a cracked +lamp-shade falling across his wet, memory-stuck blue eyes.... The +kitchen seemed full of the presence of the long-dead woman whom Tony +was still grieving for in some underpart of his mind. "Iss, her was a +nice woman," he said, "a gude wife to me; a gude wife: I hadn't no +complaint to make against she." +</p> + +<p> +The one shabby sentence hit into me all his sorrow, that which remains +and that which has sunk into time. +</p> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p> +The Mrs Widger that is, returned from the Dutch auction with an +elaborate badly-plated cruet. "Al'ays using up my saxpinces what I has +to slave for," said Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"G'out! 'Tis jest what us wants." +</p> + +<p> +"You won't never use it." +</p> + +<p> +"We'll hae it out on thy birthday—there! Will that zatisfy thee?" +</p> + +<p> +"Not afore then? I wer born at the end o' the year, an' that's why I +al'ays gets lef' behind." +</p> + +<p> +"Not a day before thy birthday! What'll yu be saying if I buys sauces +to put in all they bottles?" +</p> + +<p> +"Cut glass, is it?" +</p> + +<p> +"No! What d'yu think?" +</p> + +<p> +"What a woman 'tis! Gie yer Tony a kiss then." +</p> + +<p> +"G'out yu fule!" +</p> + +<p> +The wise fool took a kiss. We had a second supper and hot grog. We were +merry. But when I said <i>Good night</i>, I saw in Tony's eyes a +recognition that I had understood (so he felt, I think) some part of +what he seldom, if ever, brings up now to talk about. +</p> + +<p> +Only a yarn about a man's first wife.... If so, why did I go to bed +feeling I had been privileged beyond the ordinary? Wives die every day; +worn out, most of them. There came into my mind's eye with these +thoughts a picture of the open sea; yet hardly a picture, for I was +there in the midst of it. On the waves and low-lying clouds, and +through the murk, was the glimmer of a light which, I felt, would make +everything plain, did it but increase. For a moment it flickered +up—and there, over the stormy sea, I saw death as a kindly illusion. I +do not understand the wherefore of my little vision, nor why it made my +heart give one curious great thump.... +</p> + +<p> +A cats' courtship beneath my window broke it off. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +6 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE "MOONDAISY"</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Five or six years ago, when I was ill and left Seacombe, as I thought, +for good, I did not relish selling the <i>Moondaisy</i>. I was too fond +of her. So I gave her to the two men who had asked for the first and +second refusals of her, and neither of whom possessed a small sailing +boat. But I reckoned without those superficial beach jealousies which +overlie the essential solidarity of the fishermen. Neither man used her +much. Neither man looked after her. She was a bone of contention that +each feared to gnaw. While the poor little craft lay on the beach, or +in the gutter above the sea-wall, the mice ate holes into her old sail +and her gear was distributed half-way over Under Town. +</p> + +<p> +Granfer, however, had in his cottage an old dinghy sail that fits the +<i>Moondaisy</i>. Her yard and boom were in his linhay, the sheet and +downhaul in Tony's. One oar, the tholepins, and the ballast bags have +not yet been found. I bent on the sail, spliced the sheet to the boom; +borrowed tholepins from Uncle Jake,<a href="#note7" name="noteref7"><sup>7</sup></a> ballast bags and a mackerel line +with a very rusty hook from Tony, an oar from John—and, at last, put +to sea. +</p> + +<p> +The wind—westerly, off land—was too puffy for making the sheet fast. +I held it with one hand and tried to fish with the other. In order not +to stop the way of the boat and risk losing the lead on the sea-bottom, +I wore her round to lew'ard, instead of tacking to wind'ard. A squall +came down, the sail gybed quickly, and the boom slewed over with a +jerk, just grazing the top of my head. Had that boom been a couple of +inches lower, or my head an inch or two higher.... I should have been +prevented from sailing the <i>Moondaisy</i> home, pending recovery from +a bashed skull. Everything aboard that was loose, myself included, +scuttled down to lew'ard with a horrid rattle. A malicious little gush +of clear green water, just flecked with foam, spurted in over the gun'l +amidships. I wondered whether I could have swum far with a cracked +skull: the <i>Moondaisy</i>'s iron drop-keel would have sunk her, of +course. Why I was fool enough to wear the boat round so carelessly, I +don't know. +</p> + +<p> +Anyhow, I wound up the mackerel line; my catch, nil. Such an occurrence +makes one very respectful towards the fisherman who singlehanded can +sail his boat and manage five mackerel lines at once—one on the thwart +to lew'ard and one to wind'ard; a bobber on the mizzen halyard and two +bobbers on poles projecting from the boat. He must keep his hands on +five lines, the tiller and the sheet; his eyes on the boat's course, +the sea, the weather and the luff of the sail. Probably I know rather +more of the theory of sailing than he does; but, when a squall blackens +the sea to wind'ard, whilst I am thinking whether to run into the wind +or ease off the sheet; whilst by doing neither or both, I very nearly +capsize, or else stop the boat's way and lose my mackerel leads on the +bottom—he, almost without thinking, does precisely what is needful, +and another mackerel is hooked long before I should have brought the +boat up into the wind again. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>FISHERMEN'S SKILL</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The greatest charm of sailing lies in this: that it is the art of +making a boat move by dodging, by taking advantage of, a score of +possible dangers. Except when running before the wind, it is the +capsizing-power of the wind which propels the boat. The fisherman is an +artist none the less because his skill seems partly inborn; because he +sails his boat airily and carelessly, yet grimly—for life and the +bread and cheese of it. The 'poor fisherman' for whom appeals to +charity are made, as if he were a hardworking, chance-fed, picturesque +but ignorant and helpless creature, is more than a trader, more than a +skilled labourer in a factory. To a peculiar extent he sells himself as +well as his skill and his goods. He lives contingently on his own life. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +7 +</p> + +<p> +All that day the wind out in the Channel was blowing fresh from the +sou'west, as we could see by the blackness of the horizon and the +saw-edged sea-line beyond the outer headlands. During the afternoon, a +ground-sea crept into the bay, silently rolling in like an unbidden +unannounced guest who will not name his business. And when, at the turn +of the tide, the breeze in-shore also backed to the sou'west, a busy +lop was superposed on the long heaving swell.<a href="#note8" name="noteref8"><sup>8</sup></a> About half-past seven, +the Widgers were gathered together near their boats. +</p> + +<p> +"What time be it high tide?" asked Granfer. "'Bout ten, en' it?" +</p> + +<p> +"Had us better haul the boats up over?" said Tony. "Tides be dead, en't +they?" +</p> + +<p> +"No-o-o," replied Uncle Jake. "They 'en making." +</p> + +<p> +"'Tis goin' to blow, I tell 'ee," said Granfer. "See how brassy the +sun's going down. Swell coming in too. Boats up be boats safe." +</p> + +<p> +"Hould yer bloody row," said John. "What be talking 'bout? Plenty o' +time to haul up if the sea makes." +</p> + +<p> +"All very well for yu," Tony protested, "living right up to Saltmeadow. +If the sea urns up to the boats in the night yu won't be down to lend a +hand, no, not wi' yer own boats. 'Tis us as lives to the beach what has +to strain ourselves to bits hauling your boats up over so well as our +own." +</p> + +<p> +"Let 'em bide, then!" +</p> + +<p> +"Looks dirty, I say," said Granfer. "Might jest so well haul up as bide +here talking about it. <i>I</i> shan't sleep till I knows the boats be +all right." +</p> + +<p> +"Thee't better lie awake then. An't got no patience wi' making such a +buzz afore you wants tu." With that, John shouldered his coat and +strode homewards. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>JOHN WIDGER</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The rest of us pulled the boats up, John's included, till their stems +touched the sea-wall, and we placed the two sailing boats, John's and +Tony's, close beside the steps, handy for hauling up over if need +should be. +</p> + +<p> +Tony and Granfer went in house. Uncle Jake watched them go with an +ironical smile on his wrinkled old face. "Don't like the looks o' this +yer lop on a ground-swell," he said. "There! Did 'ee see how thic sea +licked the baych? Let one o' they lift yer boat.... My zenses! 'Tis all +up wi' it, an' I should pick it up in bits, up 'long, for +firewood.—Well, John's gone home along...." +</p> + +<p> +John is the youngest, handsomest and most powerfully built of the +Widgers; the most independent, most brutal-tongued and most logical, +though not, I fancy, the most perceptive. The inborn toughness, the +family tendency to health and strength, which made fine men of the +elder Widgers in spite of their youthful exposure and privations, has, +in the case of John who underwent fewer hardships, resulted in the +development, unimpeded, of a wonderful physique. "Never heard o' John +being tired," says Uncle Jake. +</p> + +<p> +Premature toil did not bend him; what he is the others had it in them +to be, and by their labour helped to make him. Because his spirit has +never been so buffeted, let alone broken, by hard times, he is also the +most self-reliant. And like the majority of lucky men, he takes fate's +forbearance as his due and adds it to his own credit. Fair-haired, +blue-eyed, his clean-shaven face deeply and clearly coloured; a +combination of the Saxon bulldog type with the seafaring man's +alertness; his heavy yet lissome frame admirably half-revealed by the +simplicity of navy-blue guernsey and trousers,—it is one of the sights +of Seacombe to see him walk the length of the Front with his two small +boys. He lacks, however, the gift of expressing himself, except when he +is angry—and then in a torrent of thrashing words. He communicates his +good-will by smiling all over his face with a tinge of mockery in his +eyes and the bend of his long neck; whether mockery at oneself or at +things in general is not evident. (It is mainly, I think, by smiling at +one another that we remain the very good friends we are.) In any +discussion, his "Do as yu'm minded then!" is his signal for making +others do as <i>he</i> is minded. The advantages possessed by +him—health, strength, clear-headedness, and good looks—he knows how +to use, and that without scruple. He is never hustled by man or +circumstance; seldom gives himself away; and seldom acknowledges an +obligation. What one might reasonably expect him to do in return for +help or even payment, he carelessly, deliberately, leaves undone, and +performs instead some particularly nice action when it is least of all +anticipated. His opinion is respected less because it is known, than +because it isn't known, and by playing in the outer world with a crack +football team he adds to his prestige here. "What du John say?" is +often asked when it doesn't matter even what John thinks. Without +gratitude for it, unconsciously perhaps, he exacts from others a sort +of homage, which is certainly not rendered without protest. "There's +more'n one real lady as John could ha' married if he'd a-been liked," I +heard Granfer say over his beer one day. "The way they used to get he +to take 'em out bathing in a boat.... Put 'en under the starn-sheets, I +s'pose—he-he-he-he-he! But they real ladies du tire o' gen'lemen +sometimes. Some on 'em had rather have a strong fellow like John. He +married out o' the likes o' us, as 'twas. Her what he married used to +eat wi' the gen'leman's family what her come'd yer with; sort o' +companion-nurse her was." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A NICE DISTINCTION</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Once, when the <i>Moondaisy</i> was mine, John charged me sixpence for +putting me ashore from the steamer, after he had been earning money +with my boat that very same day. There is no meanness in his face, and +I wondered who had taught him so to distinguish between the borrowing +of a private boat and the use of a craft that was on the beach for +hire—a perfectly sound distinction. Probably it was some +commercial-minded lodger or beach-chatterer, from whom he picked up the +opinion that nowadays, to get on, you must run with the hare and hunt +with the hounds—a precept which he quotes with cynical gusto but +carries out only so far as suits his feelings. He aims at being +businesslike, but the businesslike side of his character is the more +superficial. Pride will not allow him to boggle over bargains. "Take +it, or leave it," is his way. Most up-to-date in what he does do, he is +no pioneer, and follows a lead grudgingly when innovations are in +question. Most progressive outwardly, he is the most conservative at +heart. A reader of his daily paper, he speaks the broadest Devon of +them all; scrupulously groomed after the modern way, and a smoker of +cigarettes (he was laughed out of a pipe I've heard say), he still +wears the old-fashioned seaman's high-heeled shoes. Tobacco is his +obvious, his humane, weakness. What his other weaknesses are, I don't +know. He strikes one as master of his fate, never yet wrecked, nor +contemplating it. Did such a misfortune occur ... who knows what would +happen? He is now, in his youth, so full of strength. +</p> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p> +About ten o'clock, Tony, who was snoozing in the courting chair (Mrs +Widger had gone on to bed) woke up with a "How about they boats?" I +went out to look. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE HIGH TIDE WAVES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The sea was covered with that pallid darkness which comes over it when +the moon is hidden behind low rain-clouds. Out of the darkness, the +waves seemed to spring suddenly, without warning at one's very feet. +Every now and then, when a swell and a lop came in together, their +combined steady force and quick energy swept right up the beach, +rattling the pebbles round the sterns of the boats. For the better part +of an hour I waited. Then, after a sea had thrown some shingle right +into a boat, I called Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"'Tis past high water, en' it?" he said sleepily. +</p> + +<p> +"Thee't better come out an' see for thyself!" +</p> + +<p> +He dragged himself up and out. "'Tis al'ys like thees yer wi' the likes +o' us. 'Tis a life o'it!" +</p> + +<p> +"Aye," he said, "the say's goin' down now sure 'nuff. Better git in +house again. Raining is it?" +</p> + +<p> +"God! Look out!" +</p> + +<p> +A sea lifted Tony's and John's sailing boats; was sweeping them down +the beach. We rushed, one to each boat, and hung on. Another sea swept +the pebbles from under our feet—it felt as if the solid earth were +giving way. +</p> + +<p> +"Those was the high tide waves," said Tony. "If us hadn' a-come out +both they boats 'ould ha' been losted. Yu've a-saved John his—all by +chance. Aye! that's like 'tis wi' us, I tell thee. Yu never knows.—Be +'ee going to bed now?" +</p> + +<p> +I stayed out a little while longer: the loss of boats means so much to +men whose only capital they are. Just after Tony had gone in, the +clouds parted and the moonlight burst with a sudden glory over the sea. +In the moonglade, which reached from my feet to the far horizon, the +waters heaved and curled, most silvery, as if they were alive. That was +the wistful gentle sea from which, but a moment or two before, we had +wrested back our property—that sea of little strivings within a large +peace. I thought at the time that there was surely a God, and that as +surely He was there. For which reason, I was glad, when I came in +house, that Tony had gone on to bed. +</p> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p> +This morning John asked me: "Whu's been moving my boat?" +</p> + +<p> +"The sea, last night." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh...." +</p> + +<p> +"I'm going to make a salvage claim on your insurance company." +</p> + +<p> +"H'm?" +</p> + +<p> +"Happened to be out here and hung on, or else she'd have been swept +down the beach." +</p> + +<p> +"Did you?" +</p> + +<p> +"That's it—while yu were snug." +</p> + +<p> +"Have 'ee got a cigarette on yu?—Match?—Thank yu." +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +8 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MRS PINN</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +When I came into the kitchen early last evening, there was an old woman +sitting bolt upright in the courting chair. At least, I came to the +conclusion that she really was old after a moment or two's +watchfulness. Her flowered hat, her shape—though a little angular and +stiff,—her gestures and her bright lively damson-coloured eyes were +all youthful enough. But one could see that her inquiet hands, which +were folded on her lap, had been worn by many a washing-day. Her skin, +though wrinkled, was taut over the outstanding facial bones, as if the +wrinkles might have opened out and have equalized the strain, had age +not hardened them to brown cracks—and the tan of her complexion had +old age's lack of clearness. As so often happens when the teeth remain +good in spite of receding gums, her mouth was tightly stretched +semicircular-wise around them, and the lips had become a long, very +long, expressionless line, shaded into prominence, as in a drawing, by +a multitude of lines up and down, from chin and nose;—a Simian jaw, +remindful of the Descent of Man. All the accumulated hand-to-mouth +wisdom of generations of peasantry seemed to lurk behind the old +woman's quick eyes; to be defying one. +</p> + +<p> +I was introduced to her—Mrs Pinn, Mrs Widger's mother. She was bound +to shake my proffered hand; she did it, half rising, with a comic +mixture of respect and defiance; then sat back in the courting chair as +if to intimate, 'I knows how to keep meself to meself, I du!' +</p> + +<p> +I went outdoors, leaving them to talk; helped Tony haul up the beach +his lumpy fourteen-foot sailing boat, the <i>Cock Robin</i>, and +returned with him to supper. +</p> + +<p> +"Hullo, Gran Pinn!" he roared. "Yu here! Didn' know I'd got a new mate +for hauling up, did 'ee? Have her got 'ee yer drop o' stout eet? Us +two'll take 'ee home if yu drinks tu much." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh yu...." screeched Mrs Pinn with facetious rage followed by a swift +collapse into company manners again. +</p> + +<p> +"Thees yer be my mother-in-law, sir." +</p> + +<p> +"Mr Whats-his-name knaws that, an' I knaws yu got he staying with +'ee—there!" +</p> + +<p> +"Well then, gie us some supper then." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Pinn—'twas to be felt in the air—had been hearing all about me. +Beside her glass of stout and ale, she looked a little less prim and +defiant. But she was still on company manners. She sat delicately, on +the extreme edge of a chair, by the side of, not facing, her plate of +bread, cheese and pickles; approached them; mopped up, so to speak, a +mouthful and a gulp; then receded into mere nodding propinquity. Her +supper was a series of moppings-up. Me she kept much in her eye, and to +my remarks ejaculated "Aw, my dear soul!" or "Did yu ever?" I said with +feeble wit, in order to grease the conversation, that stout and bitter, +being called <i>mother-in-law</i>, was just the thing for Mrs Pinn. +</p> + +<p> +"Aw, my dear life!" she exclaimed, taking a mouthy sip. "What chake to +be sure!" +</p> + +<p> +It was Mrs Widger who, with a glint of amusement in her eyes, came +tactfully to my rescue. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MY NIGHTCAP</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +About ten o'clock, Mrs Widger took down two glasses and the sugar +basin, and set the conical broad-bottomed kettle further over the fire. +Mrs Pinn glanced at the top shelf of the dresser where my whiskey +bottle stands. Her bright eyes kept on returning to that spot. I should +have liked to ask Mrs Pinn to take a glass, but knew I could not afford +to let it be noised abroad that 'there's a young gen'leman to Tony +Widger's very free with his whiskey.' I dared not make a precedent I +should have to break; the breaking of which would give more +disappointment than its non-creation. Equally well, I knew that it was +no use going to bed without something to make me sleep.... I told Tony +I would go out and look at the weather. +</p> + +<p> +"Yu must 'scuse me 'companying of 'ee 'cause I got me butes off. My +veet <i>du</i> ache!" +</p> + +<p> +On my return, the bright eyes were still travelling to and fro, from +bottle to glasses. I yawned, Tony yawned noisily, Mrs Widger +capaciously. Mrs Pinn was herself infected. "'Tis time I was home.... +Oh, Lor'!" she yawned. +</p> + +<p> +She went; and when I asked Tony to share my customary nightcap, it was +with ill-hidden glee that he replied as usual: "Had us better tu?" +</p> + +<p> +His native politeness prevented him from saying anything, however, and +Mrs Widger showed not a sign of having observed the little victory, so +meanly necessary, so galling in every stage to the victor. +</p> + +<p> +Tony declares that he will really and truly start mackerel hooking +to-morrow morning—"if 'tis vitty," and "if the drifters an't catched +nort," and "if 'tis wuth it," and "if he du." +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +9 +</p> + +<p> +A creaking and shaking in the timbers of the old house, very early this +morning, must have half awakened me; then there was a muffled rap on my +door. "Be 'ee goin' to git up?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes.... 'Course.... What time is it?" +</p> + +<p> +The only answer was a <i>pad-pad-pad</i> down the stairs. I looked out +over the bedclothes. The window, a grey patch barred with darker grey, +was like a dim chilly ghost gazing at me from the opposite wall. By the +saltiness of the damp air which blew across the room and by the grind +of the shingle outside, I could tell that the wind was off sea. The sea +itself was almost invisible—a swaying mistiness through which the +white-horses rose and peeped at one, as if to say, "Come and share our +frolic. Come and ride us." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MACKEREL LINES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Tony, sleepy and sheepish in the eyes, was pattering about the kitchen +in his stockings (odd ones), his pants and his light check shirt. The +fire was contrary. We scraped out ashes; poked in more wood and paper. +Soon a gush of comfortable steam made the lid of the kettle dance. The +big blue tin teapot was washed out, filled and set on the hob. The +cupboards and front room were searched for cake. Tony went upstairs +with a cup o' tay for the ol' doman and came down with a roll of +biscuits. (Mrs Widger takes the biscuits to bed with her as maiden +ladies take the plate basket, and for much the same reason.) +</p> + +<p> +Faint light was showing through the north window of the kitchen. "Coom +on!" said Tony. "Time we was to sea." He refilled the kettle, hunted +out an old pair of trousers, rammed himself into a faded guernsey and +picked up three mackerel lines<a href="#note9" name="noteref9"><sup>9</sup></a> from the dresser. He took some salted +lasks from the brine-pot, blew out the lamp—and forth we went. After +collecting together mast, sails and oars from where they were lying, +strewn haphazard on the beach, we pushed and pulled the <i>Cock +Robin</i> down to the water's edge, and filled up the ballast-bags with +our hands, like irritable, hasty children playing at shingle-pies. "A +li'l bit farther down. Look out! Jump in. Get hold the oars," commanded +Tony. With a cussword or two (the oars had a horrid disposition to jump +the thole-pins) we shoved and rowed off, shipping not more than a +couple of buckets of water over the stern. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>DAWN AT SEA</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Tony scrambled aboard over the starboard bow, his trousers and boots +dripping. "'Tis al'ays like that, putting off from thees yer damn'd ol' +baych. No won'er us gits the rhuematics." He hung the rudder, loosed +the mizzen. I stepped the mast, hoisted the jib and lug, and made fast +halyards and sheets. Our undignified bobbing, our impatient wallowing +on the water stopped short. The wind's life entered into the craft. She +bowed graciously to the waves. With a motion compounded of air and +water, wings and a heaving, as if she were airily suspended over the +sea, the <i>Cock Robin</i> settled to her course. Spray skatted +gleefully over her bows and the wavelets made a gurgling music along +the clinker-built strakes of her. +</p> + +<p> +Tony put out the lines: tangled two of them, got in a tear, as he calls +it, snapped the sid, bit the rusty hook off, spat out a shred of old +bait, brought the boat's head too far into the wind, cursed the +flapping sail and cursed the tiller, grubbed in his pockets for a new +hook, and made tiny knots with clumsy great fingers and his teeth. +"An't never got no gear like I used tu," he complained, and then, +standing upright, with the tiller between his legs and a line in each +outstretched hand, he unbuttoned his face and broke into the merriest +of smiles. "What du 'ee think o' Tony then, getting in a tear fust +start out? Do 'ee think he's maazed—or obsolete? But we'll catch 'em +if they'm yer. Yu ought to go 'long wi' Uncle Jake. He'd tell 'ee +summut—and the fish tu if they wasn't biting proper!" +</p> + +<p> +By the time the lines were out, the dun sou'westerly clouds all around +had raised themselves like a vast down-hanging fringe, a tremendous +curtain, ragged with inconceivable delicacy at the foot, between which, +and the water-line, the peep o' day stared blankly. The whitish light, +which made the sea look deathly cold, was changed to a silvery sheen +where the hidden cliffs stood. From immaterial shadows, looming over +the surf-line, the cliffs themselves brightened to an insubstantial +fabric, an airy vision, ruddily flushed; till, finally, ever becoming +more earthy, they upreared themselves, high-ribbed and red, bush-crowned +and splashed with green—our familiar, friendly cliffs, for each and +every part of whom we have a name. The sun slid out from a parting of +clouds in the east, warming the dour waves into playfulness. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +'Twas all a wonder and a wild delight. +</p> + +<p> +As I looked at Tony, while he glanced around with eyes that were at +once curiously alert and dreamy, I saw that, in spite of use and habit, +in spite of his taking no particular notice of what the sea and sky +were like, except so far as they affected the sailing of the boat,—the +dawn was creeping into him. Many such dawns have crept into him. They +are a part of himself. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A TENDERHEART BY NATURE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Look to your lew'ard line!" he cried, "they'm up for it!" +</p> + +<p> +He hauled a mackerel aboard, and, catching hold of the shank of the +hook, flicked the fish into the bottom of the boat with one and the +same motion that flung the sid overboard again; and after it the lead. +Wedging the mackerel's head between his knees, he bent its body to a +curve, scraped off the scales near its tail, and cut a fresh lask from +the living fish. He is a tenderheart by nature, but now: "That'll hae +'em!" he crowed. +</p> + +<p> +The mackerel bit hotly at our new baits.<a href="#note10" name="noteref10"><sup>10</sup></a> Before the lines were +properly out, in they had to come again. Flop-flop went the fish on the +bottom-boards as we jerked them carelessly off the hooks. Every moment +or two one of them would dance up and flip its tail wildly; beat on the +bottom-boards a tattoo which spattered us with scales; then sink back +among the glistening mass that was fast losing its beauty of colour, +its opalescent pinks and steely blues, even as it died and stiffened. +</p> + +<p> +Suddenly the fish stopped biting, perhaps because the risen sun was +shining down into the water. The wind dropped without warning, as +southerly winds will do in the early morning, if they don't come on to +blow a good deal harder. The <i>Cock Robin</i> wallowed again on the +water. "We'm done!" said Tony. "Let's get in out o'it in time for the +early market. There ain't no other boats out. Thees yer ought to fetch +'leven-pence the dizzen. We've made thees day gude in case nort else +don't turn up." +</p> + +<p> +While I rowed ashore, he struck sail, and threw the ballast overboard. +Most pleasantly does that shingle ballast plop-rattle into the water +when there is a catch of fish aboard. We ran in high upon a sea. +Willing hands hauled the <i>Cock Robin</i> up the beach: we had fish to +give away for help. The mackerel made elevenpence a dozen to Jemima +Caley, the old squat fishwoman who wears a decayed sailor hat with a +sprig of heather in it. "Yu don' mean to say yu've a-catched all they +lovely fish!" she said with a rheumy twinkle, in the hope of getting +them for tenpence. +</p> + +<p> +"'Levenpence a dozen, Jemima!" +</p> + +<p> +"Aw well then, yu must let I pay 'ee when I sold 'em. An't got it now. +Could ha' gived 'ee tenpence down." +</p> + +<p> +With a mackerel stuck by the gills on the tip of each finger, I came in +house. The children were being got ready for school. When I returned +downstairs with some of the fishiness washed off, Mrs Widger was +distributing the school bank-cards and Monday morning pennies. (By the +time the children leave school, they will have saved thus, penny by +penny, enough to provide them with a new rig-out for service—or Sunday +wear.) There was a frizzling in the topsy-turvy little kitchen. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A DARING RASCAL</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Mam! Vish!" +</p> + +<p> +"Mam! I wants some vish. Mam 'Idger...." +</p> + +<p> +"Yu shall hae some fish another time." +</p> + +<p> +"No-o-o!" +</p> + +<p> +"Go on!" +</p> + +<p> +"Well, jam zide plaate then." +</p> + +<p> +Jimmy's finger was in the jampot. +</p> + +<p> +"Yu daring rascal!" shrieks Mam Widger. "Get 'long to school with 'ee! +Yu'll be late an' I shall hae the 'spector round. Get 'long—and see +what I'll hae for 'ee when yu comes back." +</p> + +<p> +"Coo'h! Bulls' eyes! Ay, mam? Good bye, Dad. Good bye, Mam. Bye, Mister +Ronals. Gimme a penny will 'ee?" +</p> + +<p> +"God damn the child—that ever I should say it—get 'long! <i>I'll</i> +hae a bull's eye for 'ee. Now go on." +</p> + +<p> +A tramp of feet went out through the passage. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger shovelled the crisp mackerel from the frying-pan into our +plates. Tony soused his with vinegar from an old whiskey bottle. We +lingered over our tea till he said: "Must go out an' clean they ther +boats—the popples what they damn visitors' children chucks in for to +amuse theirselves, not troubling to think us got to pick every one on +'em out be hand, an' looking daggers at 'ee when you trys to tell 'em +o'it so polite as yu can. Ay, me—our work be never done." +</p> + +<p> +"No more ain't mine!" snapped Mrs Widger, moving off to her washtub. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +10 +</p> + +<p> +For the last two or three days there has been a large flat brown-paper +parcel standing against the wall on the far side of my bed. I have +wondered what it was. +</p> + +<p> +This evening, after we had all finished tea, while Tony was puffing +gingerly at a cigarette (he is nothing of a smoker) with his chair +tilted back and a stockinged foot in Mrs Widger's lap, Jimmy said, as +Jimmy usually says: "Gie us another caake, Mam 'Idger." He laid a very +grubby hand on the cakelets. +</p> + +<p> +"Yu li'l devil!" shouted his mother. "Take yer hands off or I'll gie +'ee such a one.... Yu'd eat an eat till yu busted, I believe; an yu'm +that cawdy [finical] over what yu has gie'd 'ee...." +</p> + +<p> +Tony took up the poker and made a feint at Jimmy, who jumped into the +corner laughing loudly. With an amazing contrast in tone, Mrs Widger +said quietly: "Wait a minute an' see what I got to show 'ee, if yu'm +gude." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>ROSIE'S PHOTOGRAPH</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +She went upstairs with that peculiar tread of hers—as if the feet were +very tired but the rest of the body invincibly energetic,—and returned +with the flat parcel. She undid the string, the children watching with +greedy curiosity. She placed on the best-lighted chair an enlargement +of a baby's photograph, in a cheap frame, all complete. "There!" she +said. +</p> + +<p> +"What is ut?" asked Tony. "Why, 'tis li'l Rosie!" +</p> + +<p> +"Wer did 'ee get 'en?" he continued more softly. "Yu an't had 'en +give'd 'ee?" +</p> + +<p> +"Give'd me? No! Thic cheap-jack.... But 'tisn' bad, is it?" +</p> + +<p> +"What cheap-jack?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, thic man to the market-house—wer I got the cruet." +</p> + +<p> +"O-oh! I didn' never see he.... What did 'ee pay 'en for thic then?" +</p> + +<p> +"Never yu mind. 'Twasn't none o' yours what I paid. What do 'ee think +o'it?" +</p> + +<p> +"'Tisn' bad—very nice," remarked Tony, bending before the picture, +examining it in all lights. "Iss; 'tisn' bad by no means. Come yer, +Jimmy an' Tommy. Do 'ee know who that ther is?" +</p> + +<p> +"Rosie!" whispered Jimmy. +</p> + +<p> +"What was took up to cementry," added Tommy in a brighter voice. +</p> + +<p> +"Iss, 'tis our li'l Rosie to the life (mustn' touch), jest like her +was." +</p> + +<p> +A moment's tension; then, "A surprise for 'ee, en' it?" Mrs Widger +enquired. +</p> + +<p> +"My ol' geyser!" +</p> + +<p> +The children's riot began again. "Our Rosie...." they were saying. Mam +'Idger, slipping out of Tony's grasp, carried the picture off to the +front room. She was sometime gone. +</p> + +<p> +Wordsworth's <i>We are Seven</i> came into my mind: +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>"But they are dead; those two are dead!</p> +<p>Their spirits are in heaven!"</p> +<p class="i2">'Twas throwing words away; for still</p> +<p class="i2">The little maid would have her will,</p> +<p>And said, "Nay, we are seven!"</p></div></div> + +<p> +I knew, of course, intellectually, that the poem records more than a +child's mere fancy; but never before have I felt its truth, have I been +caught up, so to speak, into the atmosphere of the wise, simple souls +who are able to rob death of the worst of its sting by refusing to let +the dead die altogether, even on earth. Rosie is dead and buried. I +perceive also—I perceived, while Tony and the children stood round +that picture—that Rosie is still here, in this house, hallowing it a +little. The one statement is as much a fact as the other; but how much +more delicately intangible, and perhaps how much truer, the second. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +11 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>ROSIE'S DEATH</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +While we waited for Tony to come in to supper, Mrs Widger told me about +Rosie's death. "It must be awful," she said, "to lose a child fo them +as an't got nor more. I know how I felt it when Rosie was took. Nothing +would please me for months after but to go up to the cementry, to her +little grave. 'Most every evening I walked up after tea—didn' feel as +if I could go to bed an' sleep wi'out. Tony had to fend for hisself if +he wanted his supper early. Ther wasn't no reason, but it did ease me, +like, to go up there, an' it heartened me a little for next day's work. +'Twas a sort o' habit, p'raps. What broke me of it was my bad illness. +[When the twins, 'what nobody didn' know nort about,' were born.] At +first, I used to think o' Rosie, when I were lyin' alone upstairs, most +'specially at night time if Tony wer out to sea an' it come'd on to +blow a bit. I used to think, if ort happened to Tony.... Our room to +the top o' the house, sways when it do blow. I don't trouble me head +about Tony when he's to sea ordinary times—expects 'en when I sees +'en—but then I wer weak, like, an' full o' fancies. An' after I got +about again I wer much too weak to go to cementry: I used to faint +every time I come'd downstairs. Howsbe-ever, I did come down again, an' +Tony used to go out and get me quinine wine and three-and-sixpenny port +an' all sorts o' messes, to put me on me legs wi'out fainting. 'Twas +thic illness as broke me o' going up to Rosie's grave." +</p> + +<p> +"You walk up now on Sunday evenings...." I hazarded, recollecting that +then the children run wild for a couple of hours and come in tired and +dirty to cry for their mam. +</p> + +<p> +"Yes...." said Mrs Widger. +</p> + +<p> +I saw that I had trespassed into one of the little solitary tracts of +her life. +</p> + +<p> +"One day," she continued, backing the conversation with an imperfectly +hidden effort, "when Dr Bayliss come to see me, Tony was asleep in the +next bed, snoring under the clothes after a night to sea. Dr Bayliss +didn' say nort, 'cept he said: 'Your husband's a fisherman, isn't he, +Mrs Widger?' But I saw his shoulders a-shaking as he went out the door, +an' that evening he sent me a bottle o' port wine out o' his own +cellar, an' it did me a power o' gude. Tony—he was that ashamed o' +hisself, though I told 'en 'twasn't nothing for a doctor to see +'en...." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>FRANKNESS AND SMUT</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +At that moment Tony returned. He really was ashamed of the doctor +finding him in bed, whether as a breach of manners or of propriety was +not plain. Possibly the latter. He has an acute sense of decency, +though its rules and regulations are not the same as those of the +people he calls gentry. Our conversation here would hardly suit a +drawing-room. Tony, if he comes in wet, thinks nothing of stripping +down to his shirt. But, curiously enough, one of his chief complaints +about the people who hire boats, is their occasionally unclean +conversation. "The likes o' us 'ould never think of saying what they +du. Me, I didn' know nort about half the things they say till I wer +grow'd up an' learnt it from listening to the likes o' they. Yu'd hear +bad language wi' us an' plain speaking, but never what some o' they +talks about when they got no one to hear 'em 'cept us they hires, an' +they thinks us don't matter." Tony is right, I believe. Most of the +impropriety I used to hear at school, university, and in the smoking +room, though often little but a reaction against silly conventions, a +tilt against whited sepulchres,—was well-named <i>smut</i>. It was +furtive, a distortion of life's facts and inimical therefore to life. +Impropriety here, on the other hand, is a recognition of life's facts, +an expression of life, a playful ebullition. +</p> + +<p> +Tony, when he came in, enquired of Mam 'Idger what she had done with +the picture. "Did Rosie die in the summer?" I asked, remembering how +the children will run out to the milkman with a dirty can unless a +sharp eye is kept upon them, and how also the larder is fixed up over +the main drain. +</p> + +<p> +"Her died late in the autumn with convulsions from teething," Mrs +Widger replied. "An' her didn't ought to ha' died then but for Dr +Brown. When her was took ill, proper bad, I sent one of the maidens for +Dr Bayliss, but he was out to the country for they didn' know how long. +So off I sends the maid to Dr Brown, an' he sends back a message as he +cuden' attend Dr Bayliss's patients wi'out Dr Bayliss asked him. +Certainly 'twas late; but my blood jest boiled, an' I took Rosie into +Grannie's an' goes up myself. Rosie didn' belong to no doctor. Her'd +never had one. Howsbe-ever, Dr Brown says to me the same as he'd told +the maid, that he cuden' come. An' then he says, 'My good woman, I +<i>won't</i> come!' Jest like that! My flare was up; I wer jest about +to let fly my mind at 'en—an' I remembered Rosie lying in convulsions +to Grannie's, an' flew out o' his house like a mad thing. Rosie wer all +but dead. Her was gone when Dr Bayliss come'd next morning." +</p> + +<p> +"Aye!" added Tony. "That wer it. Some doctors be kind, an' some don't +trouble nort about the likes o' us when they got visitors to run a'ter. +I don' say they treats the likes o' us worse'n other people; I don' +know: oftentimes they'm so kind as can be; but when they don't behave +like they ought to, other people has the means to make 'em sorry for +it, an' us an't. They knows that. Us can't do nort an' that's the way +o'it. Rosie didn' never ought to ha' died." +</p> + +<p> +"No-o-o!" said Mrs Widger. +</p> + +<p> +One can see the tigress in most women, in every mother, if one waits +long enough. I saw it in Mrs Widger then. If she ever has the whip-hand +of Dr Brown.... +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +12 +</p> + +<p> +This mackerel hooking, which is a two-man job though Tony could and +would do it by himself were I not here, has most fortunately raised me +out of the position of a mere lodger, a household excrescence, +tolerated only for the sake of certain shillings a week. It has +provided me with a niche of my own, which I occupy—at sea the mate on +a mackerel hooker, on shore a loafer 'ready to lend a hand,' and in the +house a sort of male Cinderella. It is far pleasanter, I find, to be a +small wheel in the machine than to remain seated on a mound of pounds, +shillings and pence—beflunkeyed, as if in a soulless hotel! +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE EARLY CUP O' TAY</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Tony cannot fill his spare time by reading: it makes his long-sighted +eyes smart. On account of that, and of nights at sea, with rest taken +when and where possible, he has developed an amazing talent for +'putting it away'; that is, for sleeping. He can turn out perfectly +well at any hour, if need be, but at ordinary times he is most content +to follow somebody else's first. I on my part, sleeping indifferently +well, wake usually before dawn, and greatly dislike waiting for an +early cup o' tay. +</p> + +<p> +About half-past four I jump out of bed, creep downstairs and chop wood. +That warms me. Then with a barbaric glee, I scrape out the ashes, +sending clouds of dust over the guernseys and boots that have been set +near the fire to dry. No matter; being light and fire-dry, it will +brush off the one and shake out of the other. People who never light +fires at dawn can have no idea of the exhilaration to be obtained from +a well-laid, crackling, flaming fire. +</p> + +<p> +Tony appears at the door, half-dressed, yawning and stretching his arms +on high. "Yu an't been an' made tay, have 'ee?" he says with delighted +certainty. The cups are filled. He takes up Mam 'Idger's cup and +returns with the paper roll of 'Family Biscuits.' We forage for +tit-bits, feed standing, yawn again, and go out to 'see what to make +o'it.' +</p> + +<p> +Unless the sea is broken by the wind, there is about it just before +dawn a peculiar creeping clamminess. It seems but half awake, like +ourselves. It has no welcome for us. "Can't you wait," it seems to say, +"till I begin to sparkle?" +</p> + +<p> +Tony looks out over. "Had us better tu?" he asks with a shiver. +</p> + +<p> +"Why not?" +</p> + +<p> +"Shove her down then. There's macker out there!" +</p> + +<p> +By the time the sun is rising (it never rises twice the same) south of +the easternmost headland, Tony has worked himself into a tear over +self-tangling lines, and has been laughed out of it again. We are +perhaps a mile or two out, and if the mackerel are biting well, we are +hauling them in, swiftly, silently, grimly; banging them off the hook; +going <i>Tsch!</i> if they fall back into the sea; cutting baits from +fish not dead. If, however, they are not on the feed, we sing blatant +or romantic or sentimental songs (it is all one out there), and laugh +with a hearty sea-loudness. And if the mackerel will not bite at all we +invent a score of reasons and blame a dozen people and things. But +there we are—ourselves, the sea, and the heavenly dawn—the sea +heaving up to us, and ourselves ever heaving higher, up and over the +lop. It exalts us with it. We hardly need to talk. A straight look in +the face, a smile.... We are in the more immediate presence of one +another. Did we lie to each other with our tongues, the greater part of +our communications would yet be truth. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE PRICE OF FISH</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +We sail or row home, turn the mackerel out on the beach, count them +back into the box, wash the blood off them, and stoop low, turning them +over and over, whilst we haggle for our price. The other day, with the +exuberance of the sea still upon me, I slapped old Jemima Caley's rusty +shoulder and lo! she rose her price one penny. +</p> + +<p> +"Damme!" she said, "I'll gie 'ee ninepence a dozen if I has to go wi' +out me dinner for't! They <i>be</i> fine fish." +</p> + +<p> +"<i>Sweet</i> fish, Jemima!" +</p> + +<p> +"Lor' bless 'ee, yes!" +</p> + +<p> +But she hawked them at twopence-halfpenny or threepence a pair +according to the customer. And now, her wry sly smile, peeping from +underneath her battered hat-brim, meets me at every back-street corner. +</p> + +<p> +Soap and water, the buzz of the children, their mother's loud voice, +and mackerel for breakfast.... It is all quite prosaic and perfectly +commonplace, it is far from idyllic; yet it would need the touch of a +poet to bring out the wonder, the mystery, of it all: to light up the +door of the soul-house through which we pass to and fro, scarce +knowing. +</p> + +<p> +Tony comes in early to dinner after a morning's frighting. His object +is to get an hour or so for sleep before the visitors come out from +their later lunch. Mam 'Idger says we are lazy; that she 'don't gie way +to it, she don't!' (She did a couple of days ago.) When the +after-dinner tea is finished, Tony makes a start for 'up over!' Mrs +Widger enquires if I have some writing to do—and asks also if I would +like to be awakened before tea-time! +</p> + +<p> +Never does sleep at night come so graciously as that afternoon snooze, +while the sound of the sea and the busy noises of the square float +gently in at the windows; float higher and higher; float right away. +About half-past two, Tony goes down to take somebody out for a sail or +to paint his boats. I frequently do not hear him. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +13 +</p> + +<p> +Is there not more than one signification to the words "And I, if I be +lifted up, will draw all men unto Me?" There are times when the mind is +lifted up by a master-emotion, arising one hardly knows how, nor +whither leading; a feeling that takes charge of one, as a big wave is +said to take charge of a boat when it destroys steerageway; an emotion +so powerful that it does but batten on all which might be expected to +clash with it. These are the periods when day and night are enveloped +in one large state of mind, and life ceases to be a collection of +discrete, semi-related moods. These are the dawns of the soul, the +spring seasons of the spirit. The world is created afresh. +</p> + +<p> +Everything, and nothing, is prosaic. 'Tis <i>all according</i>. But it +is startling indeed how suddenly sometimes the earth takes on a new +wonderfulness, and Saint Prosaic a new halo. What, to put it in the +plainest manner possible, am I doing here? Merely fishing and sailing +on the cheap (not so very cheaply); roughing it—pigging it, as one +would say—with people who are not my people and do not live as I have +been accustomed to do. Yet, as I know well <i>all</i> the time, this +change from one prosaic life to another has brought about a revelation +which, like great music, sanctifies things, makes one thankful, and in +a sense very humble; incapable of fitting speech, incapable of silence. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +14 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>UNDER TOWN</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Astonishment at, and zest in, these Under Town lives; the discovery of +so much beauty hitherto unsuspected and, indeed, not to be caught sight +of without exceptional opportunity, sets one watching and waiting in +order to find out the real difference of their minds from the minds of +us who have been through the educational mill; also to find out where +and how they have the advantage of us. For I can feel rather than see, +here, the presence of a wisdom that I know nothing about, not even by +hearsay, and that I suspect to be largely the traditional wisdom of the +folk, gained from contact with hard fact, slowly accumulated and handed +on through centuries—the wisdom from which education cuts us off, +which education teaches us to pooh-pooh. +</p> + +<p> +Such wisdom is difficult to grasp; very shy. My chance of observing it +lies precisely in this: that I am neither a sky-pilot, nor a district +visitor, nor a reformer, nor a philanthropist, nor any sort of +'worker,' useful or impertinent; but simply a sponge to absorb and, so +far as can be, an understander to sympathize. It is hard entirely to +share another people's life, to give oneself up to it, to be received +into it. They know intuitively (their intuitions are extraordinarily +acute) that one is thinking more than one gives voice to; putting two +and two together; which keeps alive a lingering involuntary distrust +and a certain amount, however little, of ill-grounded respectfulness. +(Respectfulness is less a tribute to real or fancied superiority, than +an armour to defend the poor man's private life.) Besides which, these +people are necessary to, or at least their intimacy is greatly desired +by, myself, whereas their own life is complete and rounded without me. +I am tangential merely. They owe me nothing; I owe them much. It is I +who am the client, they the patrons. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>CLASS DISTINCTIONS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +We are told often enough nowadays that capital fattens on labour, +naturally, instinctively, without much sense of wrong-doing, and has so +fattened since the days when Laban tried to overreach Jacob. What we +are not so often told is that the poor man not less instinctively looks +upon the gen'leman as legitimate sport. 'An 'orrible lie' between two +poor people is fair play from a poor man to a wealthier, just as, for +instance, the wealthy man considers himself at liberty to make speeches +full of hypocritical untruth when he is seeking the suffrage of the +free and independent electors or is trying to teach the poor man how to +make himself more profitable to his employer. It is stupid, at present, +to ignore the existence of class distinctions; though they do not +perhaps operate over so large a segment of life as formerly, they still +exist in ancient strength, notwithstanding the fashionable +cant—lip-service only to democratic ideals—about the whole world kin. +There is not one high wall, but two high walls between the classes and +the masses, so-called, and that erected in self-defence by the +exploited is the higher and more difficult to climb. On the one side is +a disciplined, fortified Gibraltar, held by the gentry; then comes a +singularly barren and unstable neutral zone; and on the other side is +the vast chaotic mass. In Under Town, I notice, a gentleman is always +<i>gen'leman</i>, a workman or tramp is <i>man</i>, but the fringers, +the inhabitants of the neutral zone, are called <i>persons</i>. For +example: "That <i>man</i> what used to work for the council is driving +about the <i>gen'leman</i> as stays with Mrs Smith—the <i>person</i> +what used to keep the greengrocery shop to the top of High Street afore +her took the lodging house on East Cliff." It is, in fact, strange how +undemocratic the poor man is. (Not so strange when one realises that +far from having everything to gain and nothing to lose by a levelling +process, he has a deal to lose and his gains are problematical.) I am +not sure that he doesn't prefer to regard the gen'leman as another +species of animal. Jimmy and Tommy have a name of their own for the +little rock-cakes their mother cooks. They call them +<i>gentry-cakes</i> because such morsels are fitted for the—as Jimmy +and Tommy imagine—smaller mouths of ladies and gentlemen. The other +afternoon Mabel told me that a boat she had found belonged not to a boy +but to a <i>gentry-boy</i>. Some time ago I begged Tony not to +<i>sir</i> me; threatened to punch his head if he did. It discomforted +me to be belaboured with a title of respect which I could not +reasonably claim from him. Rather I should <i>sir</i> him, for he is +older and at least my equal in character; he has begotten healthy +children for his country and he works hard 'to raise 'em vitty.' +Against my book-knowledge he can set a whole stock of information and +experience more directly derived from and bearing upon life. I don't +consider myself unfit to survive, but he is fitter, and up to the +present has done more to justify his survival—which after all is the +ultimate test of a man's position in the race. At all events, he did +cease <i>sir-ing</i> me except on ceremonial occasions. At ordinary +times the detested word is unheard, but it is still: "Gude morning, +sir!" "Gude night, sir!" And sometimes: "Your health, sir!" At that the +matter must rest, I suppose, though the <i>sir</i> is a symbol of class +difference, and to do away with the symbol is to weaken the difference. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE WORD "LIKE"</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +But at the same time, I am lucky enough to possess certain advantages. +I have, for instance, managed to preserve the ability to speak dialect +in spite of all the efforts of my pastors and masters to make me talk +the stereotyped, comparatively inexpressive compromise which goes by +the name of King's English. Tony is hard of hearing, catches the +meaning of dialect far quicker than that of standard English, and I +notice that the damn'd spot <i>sir</i> seldom blots our conversation +when it is carried on in dialect. Finally there is the great problem of +self-expression. There, at any rate, I am well to windward. +</p> + +<p> +The cause of the uneducated man's use of the word <i>like</i> is +interesting. He makes a statement, uses an adjective, and—especially +if the statement relates to his own feelings or to something +unfamiliar—he tacks on the word <i>like</i>, spoken in a peculiarly +explanatory tone of voice. What does the word mean there? Is it merely +a habit, a 'gyte,' as Tony would say? And why the word <i>like</i>? +</p> + +<p> +When a poet wishes to utter thoughts that are too unformulated, that +lie too deep, for words— +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Break, break, break,</p> +<p class="i2">On thy cold grey stones, O Sea!</p> +<p>And I would that my tongue could utter</p> +<p class="i2">The thoughts that arise in me—</p></div></div> + +<p> +he has recourse to simile and metaphor. Take, for example, the +transience of human life, a subject on which at times we most of us +have keen vague thoughts that, we imagine, would be so profound could +our tongues but utter them. +</p> + +<p> +Blake's Thel is a symbol of the transience of life. +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>O life of this our Spring! why fades the lotus of the water?</p> +<p>Why fade these children of the Spring, born but to smile and fall?</p></div></div> + +<p> +"Thel, the transient maiden, is.... What is Thel?" says Blake, in +effect. Thel cannot be described straightforwardly. "What then is Thel +<i>like</i>?" +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Ah! Thel is like a watery bow, and like a parting cloud,</p> +<p>Like a reflection in a glass, like shadows on the water,</p> +<p>Like dreams of infants, like a smile upon an infant's face,</p> +<p>Like the dove's voice, like transient day, like music in the air.</p></div></div> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>DIALECT</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Shakespeare, in a corresponding difficulty, uses one convincing simile: +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Like as the waves make towards the pebbled shore</p> +<p>So do our minutes hasten to their end;</p> +<p>Each changing place with that which goes before,</p> +<p>In sequent toil all forwards do contend.</p></div></div> + +<p> +Drummond of Hawthornden exclaims: +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>This Life, which seems so fair,.</p> +<p>Is like a bubble blown up in the air.</p> +<p>By sporting children's breath....</p></div></div> + +<p> +Bacon speaks more boldly and concisely. He forsakes simile for +metaphor, leaving the word <i>like</i> to be understood. +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>The World's a bubble, and the Life of Man.</p> +<p>Less than a span....</p></div></div> + +<p> +Were Tony to try and express himself by the same means, he would say: +"The world's a bubble, like, and the life of man less than a span, +like." +</p> + +<p> +<i>Like</i>, in fact, with the poor man as with the poet, connotes +simile and metaphor. The poor man's vocabulary, like the poet's, is +quite inadequate to express his thoughts. Both, in their several ways, +are driven to the use of unhackneyed words and simile and metaphor; +both use a language of great flexibility;<a href="#note11" name="noteref11"><sup>11</sup></a> for which reason we find +that after the poet himself, the poor man speaks most poetically. +Witness the beautiful description: "All to once the nor'easter springed +out from the land, an' afore us could down-haul the mainsail, the sea +wer feather-white an' skatting in over the bows." New words are eagerly +seized; hence the malapropisms and solecisms so frequently made fun of, +without appreciation of their cause. <i>Obsolete</i> has come hereto +from the Navy, through sons who are bluejackets. Now, when Tony wishes +to sum up in one word the two facts that he is older and also less +vigorous than formerly, he says: "Tony's getting obsolete, like." A +soulless word, borrowed from official papers, has acquired for us a +poetic wealth of meaning in which the pathos of the old ship, of +declining years, and of Tony's own ageing, are all present with one +knows not what other suggestions besides. And when <i>obsolete</i> is +fully domesticated here, the <i>like</i> will be struck off. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THOUGHTS AND MIND PICTURES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +In short, every time Tony uses <i>like</i>, he is admitting, and +explaining, that he has expressed himself as best he could, but +inadequately notwithstanding. He has felt something more delicately, +thought upon something more accurately, than he can possibly say. He is +always pathetically eager to make himself plain, to be understood. One +knows well that touching look in the eyes of a dog when, as we say, it +all but speaks. Often have I seen that same look, still more intense, +in Tony's eyes, when he has become mazed with efforts to express +himself, and I have wished that as with the dog, a pat, a small caress, +could change the look into a joyfulness. But it is just because I am +fond of him that I am able to feel with him and to a certain extent to +divine his half-uttered thoughts; to take them up and return them to +him clothed in more or less current English which, he knows, would +convey them to a stranger, and which shows him more clearly than before +what he really was thinking. That seems to be one of my chief functions +here—thought-publisher. Evidently grateful, he talks and talks, +usually while the remains of a meal lie scattered on the table. "Aye!" +he says, at the end of a debauch of <i>likes</i>. "I don' know what I +du know. Tony's a silly ol' fule!" +</p> + +<p> +He does not believe it; nor do I; for I am often struck with wonder at +the thoughts and mind-pictures which we so curiously arrive at +together. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +15 +</p> + +<p> +The old feudal class-distinctions are fast breaking down. But are we +arriving any nearer the democratic ideal of <i>Liberté</i>, +<i>Égalité</i>, <i>Fraternité</i>? In place of the old distinctions, +are we not setting up new distinctions, still more powerful to divide? +There is to-day a greater social gulf fixed between the man who takes +his morning tub and him who does not, than between the man of wealth or +family and him who has neither. New-made and pink, the 'gentleman' +arises daily from his circle of splashes, a masculine Venus from a foam +of soap-suds. (About womenfolk we are neither so enquiring nor so +particular.) For the cults of religion and pedigree we have substituted +the cult of soap and water, and 'the prominent physician of Harley +Street' is its high priest. Are you a reputed atheist? Poor man! +doubtless God will enlighten you in His good time. Are you wicked? +Well, well.... Have you made a fortune by forsaking the official +Christian morality in favour of the commercial code? You can redeem all +by endowing a hospital or university. But can they say of you that +somehow or other you don't look quite clean? Then you are damn'd! +</p> + +<p> +The cottage where the heroine of the 'nice' book lives is always +spotlessly clean. A foreigner who adopts the bath-habit, is said to be +just like an Englishman. It is the highest praise he can earn, and will +go further in English society than the best introductions. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>CLEANLINESS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Cleanliness is our greatest class-symbol. In living with people who +have been brought up to different ways of life, a consideration of +cleanliness is forced upon one; for nothing else rouses so +instantaneously and violently the latent snobbery that one would fain +be rid of. Religiously, politically, we are men and brothers all. Yet +still—there <i>are</i> men we simply cannot treat as brothers. By what +term of contempt (in order to justify our unbrotherliness) can we call +them? Not <i>poor men</i>; for we have <i>Poor but honest</i> too +firmly fixed in our minds, and we would all like a colonial rich rough +diamond of an uncle to appear suddenly in our family circle. Hardly +<i>men of no family</i>; for men of no family are received at court. +Not <i>workmen</i>; for behold the Carlylese and Smilesian dignity of +labour! Not <i>the masses</i>; for the masses are supposed to be our +rulers. What then can we call these people with whom we really cannot +associate on equal terms? Why, call them <span class="sc">The Great Unwashed</span>. O +felicitous phrase! O salve of the conscience! That is the unpardonable +social sin. At the bottom of our social ladder is a dirty shirt; at the +top is fixed not laurels, but a tub! The bathroom is the inmost, the +strongest fortress of our English snobbery. +</p> + +<p> +Cleanliness as a subject of discussion is, curiously enough, considered +rather more improper than disease. Yet it has to be faced, and that +resolutely, if we would approach, and approaching, understand, the +majority of our fellow-creatures. +</p> + +<p> +Chemically all dirt is clean. Just as the foods and drinks of a good +dinner, if mixed up together on a dish, would produce a filthy mess, so +conversely, if we could separate any form of dirt into the pure solid, +liquid and volatile chemical compounds of which it is composed, into +pretty crystals, liquids and gases, exhibited in the scientific manner +on spotless watch-glasses and in thrice-washed test-tubes,—we might +indeed say that some of these chemicals had an evil odour, but we could +not pronounce them unclean. Prepared in a laboratory, the sulphuretted +hydrogen gas which makes the addled egg our national political weapon, +is a quite cleanly preparation. Dirt is merely an unhappy mixture of +clean substances. The housewife is nearest a scientific view of the +matter when she distinguishes between 'clean dirt' and 'dirty dirt,' +and does not mind handling coal, for instance, because, being clean +dirt, it will not harm her. Cleanliness is a process by which we keep +noxious microbes and certain poisons outside our systems or in their +proper places within. (It has been shown that we cannot live without +microbes, and that there exist normally in some parts of the body +substances which are powerfully poisonous to other parts.) Rational +cleanliness makes for health, for survival. It is, ultimately, an +expression of the Will to Live. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>DIRT</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Far, however, from being rational, our notions on cleanliness are in +the highest degree superficial. We make a great fuss over a flea; +hardly mention it in polite company; but we tolerate the dirty housefly +on all our food. We eat high game which our cook's more natural taste +calls muck. We are only just beginning to realise the indescribable +filthiness of carious teeth, than which anything more unclean, a few +diseases excepted, can scarcely be found in slums. Even in this great +age of pseudo-scientific enlightenment, we do not have a carious tooth +extracted until it aches, though we have a front tooth cleaned and +stopped on the first appearance of decay. What the eye doth not see.... +Yet we presume to judge men by their deviation from our conventional +standards of cleanliness. +</p> + +<p> +My lady goes to the doctor for her headaches and <i>crises de +nerfs</i>. "Dyspepsia and autotoxæmia," says the doctor. "Try +such-and-such a diet for a month, then go to Aix-les-Bains." But how +would my lady be ashamed did he tell her plainly: "Madam, though I +observe that you bathe frequently, your cleanliness, like your beauty, +is only skin-deep. You are fair without and foul within. Your +alimentary canal is overloaded and your blood is so unclean that it has +poisoned your nervous system. Eat less, take more exercise and drink +plenty—of water. Try to be as clean as your gardener." It has been +remarked that the labourer who sweats at his work is, in reality, far +cleaner than the bathing sedentary man, for the labourer has a daily +sweat-bath, whereas the other only washes the outside of him: the +cleanliness of the latter is skin-deep, and of the former blood-deep. +Once stated, the fact is obvious. Moreover, the labourer has the +additional advantage of being self-cleansing, whereas the sedentary +man, for his inferior kind of cleanliness, requires a bath and all +sorts of apparatus. No doubt, in time we shall learn to value both +kinds of cleanliness, each at its worth. The Martians of fiction, when +in a fair way to conquer the earth, succumbed before earthly microbes +to which they were unaccustomed, against which they had not acquired +immunity. If by antiseptics they could have kept these microbes at bay, +they would have done well, but if, like mankind, they had possessed +self-resistance against them (that is, if they had been self-cleansing) +it would have been still better. There is no paradox in saying that, +practically, it is very difficult for a healthy person to be genuinely +unclean; and that ideally, in the surgeon's eyes, we are, all, rich man +and tramp, so unclean that there is little to choose between us, and +every one of us requires a comprehensive scrubbing in an antiseptic +tub. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>DISADVANTAGES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +But just as the habit of aiding nature by eating predigested food is +bad, so too rigid a habit, too great a need of cleanliness is a +positive disadvantage in the struggle for existence. Harry Stidston +says fleas are loveable little creatures. I have had to learn to put up +with one or two sometimes. Tommy makes his mother undress him in the +middle of dinner to find one. In other words, Harry Stidston can do his +work and live under conditions which would put me to flight, and I have +a like advantage over Tommy. Again, Tony can do with an occasional bath +and can eat his food with fishy hands, while I am a worm and no man +without my daily bath, or at least a wash-over, and, except at sea, +turn against the best of food if I can smell fish on my fingers. The +advantage is Tony's. It is good to be clean, but it is better to be +able to be dirty. +</p> + +<p> +The upshot is half-a-dozen—maybe unpleasant—truths, without +recognition of which the latter-day citadel of snobbery cannot be +stormed, nor the poor man and his house appreciated at their worth; +namely:— +</p> +<div class="blockquote"> + +<p> +1. <i>Ideally</i>: We are all so unclean that there is little to choose +between us. +</p> + +<p> +2. <i>Scientifically</i>: Cleanliness, as practised, is conventional +and irrational. +</p> + +<p> +3. Blood-cleanliness is better than skin-cleanliness. +</p> + +<p> +4. To be self-cleansing is better than to be cleansed by outside +agents. +</p> + +<p> +5. It is hard for a healthy, active person to be really unclean. +</p> + +<p> +6. <i>Practically</i>: The need of cleanliness is a weakness. +</p> +</div> +<p> +According to the orthodox standards, this house of Tony's is by no +means so clean as the rose-embowered cottage of romance. It was not +hygienically built. The children gain health by grubbing about outside, +then come in house and demonstrate their healthy appetite by grabbing. +I could wish at times that they were a little more conscious of their +noses. We cannot, try how we will, get wholly rid of fleas, because +fleas flourish in beaches, boats and nets. There are several things +here to turn one's gorge, until prejudices are put aside and the matter +regarded scientifically. For, as one may see, the effective cleanliness +of this household strikes a subtle balance between more contending +needs than can be fully traced out. If, for instance, Mrs Widger came +down earlier and scrupulously swept the house, her temper would suffer +later on in the day. If she did not sometimes 'let things rip,' and +take leisure, her health, and with it the whole delicate organisation +of the household, would go wrong. Of a morning, I observe she has +neck-shadows. Horrid! Perhaps, but being a wise woman, pressed always +for time, she postpones her proper wash until the dirty work is done. +Were we to kill off the wauling cats which make such a mess of the +garden, the neighbourhood would lose its best garbingers. Baked dinner +is never so tasty as when the tin, hot from the oven, is placed upon a +folded newspaper on the table. Tony and the children tear fish apart +with their fingers. It does not look nice, but that is the reason why +they never get bones in their throats, for, as a fish-eating +instrument, sensitive fingers are much superior to cutlery and plate, +and so on.... +</p> + +<p> +I used to think that I was pigging it here. Now I do not.<a href="#note12" name="noteref12"><sup>12</sup></a> +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +16 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>JIMMY COMES HOOKING</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The dawns are later now. We do not need to get up quite so early, and +usually, just as we are drinking our cup o' tay, we hear a pattering of +naked feet on the staircase. Jimmy, the Dustman still in his eyes, +appears at the door. He has an air of being about to do something +important. He picks out his stockings and old grey suit from the +corners where they were left to dry. He does not ask to have his boots +laced up nor complain of their stiffness. Then with his coat +exceedingly askew on his shoulders, he demands: "Tay! please." +</p> + +<p> +"What do <i>yu</i> want? Git up over to bed again." +</p> + +<p> +"I be comin' hooking wiv yu." +</p> + +<p> +"Be 'ee? Yu'll hae to hurry up then." +</p> + +<p> +When the sea is not too loppy nor the wind too cold, Jimmy goes with +us. The soft-mouthed mackerel need hauling up clear of the gunwale with +a long-armed swing, beyond Jimmy's power to give, and therefore as a +rule he is not at first allowed to have a line; for fish represent +money and mackerel caught now will be eaten as bread and dripping in +the winter. Jimmy sits huddled up on the lee side for'ard. He becomes +paler, looks plaintively, and sighs a big sigh or two. +</p> + +<p> +"What's the matter, Jim-Jim? Do 'er feel leery?" +</p> + +<p> +If Jimmy volunteers a remark, nothing is the matter. But if he merely +answers "No-o-o!" he means <i>yes</i>, and in order to stave off +sea-sickness he must be given a line. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>EDUCATION EVILS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Then is Jimmy 'proper all right.' Then does he brighten up. "How many +have us catched?" he asks. The sight of him fishing in the stern-sheets +re-assures me as to his future, about which I am sometimes fearful, +just as some men are depressed by a helpless baby because they foresee, +imaginatively, the poor little creature's life and all possible +troubles before it. When I watch Jimmy in house, rather naughty +perhaps, or when I hear Bessie, fresh from the twaddle that they put +into her head at school, saying, "If Dad'd earn more money, mother, us +could hae a shop an' he could buy me a pi-anno;" or when, as I am out +and about with the boats, a grubby small hand is suddenly slipped into +mine and a joyful chirping voice says, "What be yu 'bout?"—then, and +at a score of other times, I am fearful of what they may be led to do +with Jimmy; fearful lest they may put the little chap to an inland +trade where he is almost bound to become a lesser man than his father, +be removed from the enlarging influence of the sea, and have it given +him as the height of ambition to grow up a dram-drinking or +psalm-smiting, Sunday-top-hatted tradesmen. Then I desire savagely to +have the power of a God, not that I might direct his life—he can sail +his own boat better than I,—but that I might keep the ring clear for +him to fight in, and prevent foul play. What indeed would I not do to +remove some of the guilt of us educated men and women who force our +ideas on people without asking whether they need them, without caring +how maimed, stultified and potent for evil the ideas become in process +of transmission, without seeing that for the age-old wisdom of those +whom we call the uneducated we are substituting a jerry-built +knowledge—got from books—which we only half believe in ourselves? New +lamps for old! The pity of it! The farce! +</p> + +<p> +But when I watch Jimmy fishing, I grow confident that the sea has its +grip on him; that it will drag him to itself as it dragged his father +from the grocery store; that whatever happens, it will always be part +of his life to keep trivialities, meannesses and education from quite +closing in around him. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +17 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn">"<i>THE FISHER FATHER AND CHILD</i>"</span> +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p><i>The Fisher Father and Child</i></p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>As I pulled the boat across a loppy sea—</p> +<p>The bumping and splashing boat,</p> +<p>With the sail flapping round my head,</p> +<p>And the pile of mackerel amidships ever growing larger and lovelier +in the light—</p> +<p>And the sun rose behind the cliffs to eastward, and the sky became +lemon-yellow</p> +<p>(A graciously coloured veil twixt the earth and all mystery beyond),</p> +<p>And the wavelets sparkled and darted like ten thousand fishes at play +in the ambient dawn,—</p> +<p>It seemed that the sky and the sea and the earth gathered themselves +together,</p> +<p>And became one vast kind eye, looking into the stern of the boat,</p> +<p>At the father and boy.</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Navy-blue guernsey, and trousers stained by the sea, scarce hiding +the ribbed muscles;</p> +<p>Tan-red face, the fresh blood showing through;</p> +<p>Blue eyes, all of a flash with fishing and the joy of hauling 'em in; +now on the luff of the sail (out of habit, there being hardly a +sail-full of air), now to wind'ard, and again smiling on the +child;</p> +<p>Big pendulous russet hands, white in the palms from salt water, and +splashed with scales—</p> +<p>Hands that seem implements rather, appearing strangely no part of the +man, but something, like the child, that has grown away from +him and has taken a life of its own—</p> +<p>Strong for a sixteen-foot sweep, delicate to handle the silken snood of +a line—</p> +<p>A man that the winds and the spray have blown on, gnarled and bent to +the sea's own liking,</p> +<p>The Father!</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>And the boy—</p> +<p>Like delicate dawn to the sunset was the child to his father—</p> +<p>A sturdy slight little figure, as straight as the mast,</p> +<p>A grey and more gently coloured figure, glancing round with the +father's self-same gestures softened, and with childish +trustful sea-blue eyes;</p> +<p>Pattering with naked feet on the stern-sheets, and hauling the fish +with a wary cat-like motion....</p> +<p>O splendid and beautiful pair!</p> +<p>O man of the sea! O child growing up to the sea!</p> +<p>You have given yourselves to the waters, and the waters have given +of their spirit to you,</p> +<p>And I know when you speak that the sea is speaking through you,</p> +<p>And I know when I look at the sea, 'tis the likeness of your souls,</p> +<p>And I know that as I love you, I am loving also the sea—</p> +<p>O splendid and beautiful portions of the sea!</p></div></div> + + +<p class="head"> +18 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MRS FINN'S PROFESSIONS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Pinn has put aside her respectful defiance, has ceased addressing +me as <i>sir</i>, and turns out to be a most jolly old woman, possessed +of any amount of laughing <i>camaraderie</i>. She frankly explains the +change thus: "I used to think yu was reeligious. Yu du look a bit like +a passon [parson] sometimes. Do 'ee know 't?—No, not now; be blow'd if +yu du! Yu'm so wicked as the rest of 'em, <i>I</i> believe, but yu +ben't like they ol' passons. I'll 'llow yu'm better'n they." My own +recollection, however, runs back to the evening when she brought her +damped-down washing round, and I turned the mangle for her. It is +hardish work. 'Tis a wonder how she, an old woman, can do it when, if +births are scarce, she is reduced to taking in washing for a week or +two. Tony calls her the Tough Old Stick. Excellent name! I can picture +her in her cottage up on land, bringing up her long family with much +shouting, much hard common sense, some swearing and a deal of useful +prejudice. Now, in her second youth—not second childhood—she is +mainly a lace-worker and midwife. One night, Tony and myself broke into +her cottage, locked the door behind us and helped ourselves to what +supper we could find—which was pickled beetroot and raw eggs. Grannie +Pinn climbed in upon us through the little window, and afterwards, to +gain breath, she sat down to her lace pillow. Her dexterity was +marvellous. She <i>threw</i> the bobbins about. I could not follow them +with my eyes. She makes stock patterns only; refuses to be taught fresh +patterns at her time of life, and cannot read them up for herself +because she has never learned to read. The butterfly is her +masterpiece. Working from early morning till evening's gossip-time, she +can earn no less than nine pennies a day. What the lace-selling shop +makes out of her, the lace-selling shop does not state. +</p> + +<p> +As a midwife, no doubt, she earns more. She must be full of tonic +sayings. I am told that when her patients are dying, she takes away the +pillow 'so that they can die more proper like,' and also in order that +they may get the dying over quicker. What scenes the Tough Old Stick +have must been present at! Yet she is spryer by far than those who keep +clear of tragedy. When I ask her to tell me truly how many patients she +has killed off in her professional career, her eyes glitter and she +bursts out: "Aw, yu! What chake yu got, to be sure!" +</p> + +<p> +She has her share of professional pride, but nevertheless I should like +to know how many corpses she really has laid out for burial—and what +she thought the while. +</p> + +<p> +Usually she comes in just before supper-time: +</p> + +<p> +"Ain't yu gone yet? I know; yu got some mark or other to Seacombe. Come +on! which o' the young ladies is't? Out wi' it! Which on 'em is't?" +When I tell her that she is the best girl in Seacombe and that I won't +give her the chuck until she finds me a mark as youthful as herself and +a hundred times as rich, she says: +</p> + +<p> +"Then yu'm done! her won't hae nort still, 'cause I an't got nort, an' +a hundred times nort be nothing—he-he-he! I knaws thiccy." +</p> + +<p> +The jokes, 'tis true, are poor. But the Tough Old Stick's enjoyment +franks them all. You may fling a stinging fact in her face; tell her, +if you like, that she could find plenty of marks for herself because, +being old, she will have to die soon and then the poor fellow would be +free again. "I know't!" she says, and flings you back another stinging +fact. Admirable Old Stick! She never flinches at a fact, howsoever +grisly it be. +</p> + +<p> +Above all, she revels in a little mild blasphemy; hardly +blasphemy—imaginary details, say, about hell, in the manner of Mark +Twain. "Aw, my dear soul!" she exclaims. "How yu du go on! Aw, my dear +soul! Yu'm going to hell, sure 'nuff yu be!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>AGNOSTICISM</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +But her horror is only a pretence. She does not take such matters +seriously. Indeed, few things have surprised me so much as the +thoroughgoing agnosticism that prevails here. Uncle Jake is the +religious member of the Widger family. For the rest, religion is the +business of the clergy who are paid for it and of those who take it up +as a hobby, including the impertinent persons who thrust hell-fire +tracts upon the fisherfolk. "Us can't 'spect to know nort about it," +says Tony. "'Tain't no business o' ours. May be as they says; may be +not. It don't matter, that I sees. 'Twill be all the same in a hunderd +years' time when we'm a-grinning up at the daisy roots." +</p> + +<p> +Nevertheless, he is not atheistical, nor even wholly fatalistic. When +his first wife was lying dead, he saw her in a dream with one of her +dead babies in her arms, and he is convinced that that meant something +very spiritual, although what it meant he does not care to enquire. The +agnosticism refers not so much to immortality or the existence of a +God, as to the religions, the nature of the God, the divinity of +Christ, and so on. +</p> + +<p> +"Us don' know nort about that, n'eet does anybody else, I believe, an' +all their education on'y muddles 'em when they comes to weigh up thic +sort o' thing." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>SPARROWISM</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +If the sparrows themselves had been acquainted with 'Are not two +sparrows sold for a farthing? and one of them shall not fall to the +ground without your Father,' their attitude towards religion might have +resembled Tony's—a mixture of trust and <i>insouciance</i>, neither of +them driven to any logical conclusion and both tempered by fatalism. +"When yu got to die, yu got tu," says Tony, and it makes little +difference to him whether the event has been decreed since the +beginning of time, or whether it is to be decreed at some future date +by a being so remote as God. The thing is, to accept the decree +courageously. +</p> + +<p> +The children go to Sunday School, of course; it is convenient to have +them out of the way while Sunday's dinner is being cooked and the +afternoon snooze being taken. Besides, though the Sunday School +teaching is a fearful hotch-potch of heaven, hell and self-interest, +the tea-fights concerts and picnics connected with it are well worth +going to. But the household religion remains a pure <i>sparrowism</i>, +and an excellent creed it is for those of sufficient faith and courage. +</p> + +<p> +Of how the Sunday School teaching is translated by the children into +terms of every day life, we had a fine example two or three weeks ago. +Jimmy came home full of an idea that 'if you don' ast God to stop it, +Satant 'll have 'ee,' and Mrs Widger asked him: "What's the difference +then between God an' Satant?" +</p> + +<p> +"Ther ain't nort." +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, there is. What does God du?" +</p> + +<p> +"God don't do nort unless yu asks Him." +</p> + +<p> +"An' what does Satant du?" +</p> + +<p> +"Oh—I know!—Satant gets into yer 'art, an' gives 'ee belly-ache an' +toothache." +</p> + +<p> +Not many days afterwards, Tommy was being sent to bed for getting his +feet wet. "Yu daring rascal! I'll knock yer head off if yu du it again. +Yu'll die, yu will! An' what'll yu du then?" +</p> + +<p> +"Go to heaven, o' course." +</p> + +<p> +"An' what do you think they'll say to 'ee there? Eh?" +</p> + +<p> +Tommy was puzzled. +</p> + +<p> +"You can ask 'em to send us better weather." I suggested. +</p> + +<p> +"Tell 'ee what I'll do," said Tommy with a prodigiously wise squint. +"I'll take up a buckle-strap to thiccy ol' God, if 'er don't send +better weather, an' then yu won't none on 'ee get sent to bed for wet +feet!" +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +19 +</p> + +<p> +At a corner near here, there is a very blank cottage wall, and in the +centre of it a little window. Behind the closed window, all day and +every day, sits an old woman at her lace pillow. Some +portraits—Rembrandt's especially—give one the impression that a +shutter has suddenly been drawn aside; that behind the shutter we are +allowed to watch for a moment or two a face so full of meaning as to be +almost more than human. The same impression is given me by the old +lace-maker in the window when I pass to and fro, and catch sight of her +face so still, her hands so active, her bobbins so swift and, because +of the intervening glass, so silent. How nervously the hands speed with +the bobbins, how very deliberately with the pins that make the pattern! +How hardly human it is! +</p> + +<p> +One evening, however, the window was open, children stood round in a +group, and I heard the small click of the bobbins through the still +air. The children were laughing, delighted with the old woman's +swiftness. She that had been a picture, was become a living being. +</p> + +<p> +No doubt, she is working at her lace pillow now. She has several mouths +to feed. I wonder does she earn as much as Grannie Pinn? +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +20 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>CONGERING</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +This long time I have wished to go congering all night, but have been +unable to do so for want of a mate. It is more than one man's work to +haul a boat up the beach in daytime, let alone the middle of the night +or at early dawn. If the <i>Moondaisy</i>'s old crew was here.... +</p> + +<p> +Ah! those were days—when George and the Little Commodore and the Looby +and myself used to row out with a swinging stroke at sundown to +Elm-beech-tree<a href="#note13" name="noteref13"><sup>13</sup></a> and Conger Pool. The choosing of the mark; the +careful heaving of the sling-stone; the blinn, skate, pollack, +spider-crabs, and conger eels, we used to catch; the fights with the +conger in the dark or by the light of matches or of an old lantern that +blew out when it was most wanted; the absurd way the crew turned up +their noses at my nice tomato sandwiches and gobbled down stringy +corned beef; their quiet slumber round the stern seats and my solitary +watch amidships over all the lines, and at the sea-fire trailing in the +flood-tide; their crustiness when I awoke them to shift our mark and +their jubilation when a whopper was to be gaffed; the utter +peacefulness of the night after they had gone to sleep again; our merry +row home and hearty beaching of the boat; the cup of hot tea.... It is +all clean gone. George is in the Navy and the Little Commodore is under +a glass box of waxen flowers up on land. Did I bring back a catch +alone, perhaps the old boat would be stove in. +</p> + +<p> +Tony, however, has been saying that, on the rough ground a mile or so +out, good-sized conger can be caught by day. On Saturday, therefore, I +collected gear from the Widger linhays, borrowed a painter and anchor, +and, the wind being easterly, I luffed the <i>Moondaisy</i> out a mile +and a half south-east. There I dropped anchor. +</p> + +<p> +Tony had given me two mackerel for bait, one fresh and the other +somewhat otherwise; that is to say it was merely fishmonger +fresh—quite good enough for eating but hardly good enough for conger +who, though they have a reputation for feeding on dead men, will only +touch the freshest of bait. With the fresh mackerel I caught one large +conger (it ripped in the sail a hole that took Mam Widger an hour to +mend) and two dog-fish. Nothing at all would bite at the stale +mackerel. The easterly sea was making a little and skatting in over the +bows. Besides which, the <i>Moondaisy</i> began to drag her anchor. My +hand to jaw-and-tail fight with the conger had made me a little +unsteady; had made my muscles feel as if they might string up with +cramp; which is not good for stepping a heavyish mast and sailing a +boat. So I stepped the mast and set sail, to make sure, and ran +homewards with the wind almost abeam. +</p> + +<p> +We decided to save the conger for Sunday's dinner. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger made a most savoury stew of it, and when Tony came in as +usual, asking, "Be dinner ready, Missis?" she placed the stew on the +table. +</p> + +<p> +Tony's face fell. +</p> + +<p> +"Be this my dinner, Annie?" +</p> + +<p> +"Iss, for sure." +</p> + +<p> +"<i>Thees?</i>" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>HOT BAKE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"What d'yu think then?" +</p> + +<p> +"<i>Thees!</i> Wer's yer baked spuds?" +</p> + +<p> +"Do' ee gude to hae a change. Ther's some cold taties to the larder if +you likes to get 'em." +</p> + +<p> +"<i>Thees!</i> Why, I wish thees yer conger hadn't never been catched!" +</p> + +<p> +"G'out!—Now then, you childern...." +</p> + +<p> +Tony picked over the fish, going <i>Tsch!</i> for every bone his +fingers came across. +</p> + +<p> +"Thee't look so sulky as an ol' cow," said Mam Widger. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, what do 'ee think? Thees yer.... Did 'ee ever see the like +o'it?" +</p> + +<p> +Presently it occurred to him to peep inside the oven. His face +brightened. "I know'd her 'ouldn't du me out o' me Sunday dinner. Bring +it out, Missis. Sharp! Gie thiccy stuff to the cat. Baked spuds! What's +Sunday wi'out baake? 'Tain't no day at all! I couldn' ha' put away an +hour after thic." +</p> + +<p> +For the remainder of the meal, when Tony was not eating, he was +singing; and several times he chucked Mam Widger under the chin, and +she retorted: "G'out, yu cupboard-loving cat!" +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +21 +</p> + +<p> +This is the recipe for baked dinner: +</p> + +<p> +Turn out the children and turn on the oven. Into the middle of a large +baking tin place a saucer piled up with a mixture of herbs (mainly +parsley), one sliced onion and breadcrumbs, the whole made sticky with +a morsel of dripping. Round about the saucer put a layer of large +peeled potatoes, and on top of all, the joint. Set the baking tin on +the hob and into it pour just enough warm water to run over the rim of +the saucer. Soon after the water boils, transfer the whole to a fairly +quick oven. When the meat is brown outside, slow the oven down. Serve +piping hot from the oven, placing the tin on a folded newspaper and the +joint, if large, on a hot plate. +</p> + +<p> +To dish up hot bake in the ordinary way would be to let the nature out +of it. The smell is a wonderful blend, most hunger-provoking. True, the +joint, unless pork or veal, is apt to be a little tough, but the taties +are a delicious shiny brown, their soft insides soaked through and +through with gravy. Bake is a meal in itself. Pudding thereafter is a +work of supererogation—almost an impertinence. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger's cookery, though sometimes a little greasy for one who does +no great amount of manual labour and undergoes no excessive exposure, +is far from bad. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>FOOD</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Food reformers; patrons of cookery schools where they try, happily in +vain, to teach the pupils to prepare dishes no working man would +adventure on; physical degenerates who fear that unless the working man +imitates them, he will become as degenerate as they are, and quite +unfit to do the world's rough work—forget that whereas they have only +one staple food, if that, namely bread, the poor man has several staple +dishes which he likes so well that he is loth to touch any other. +</p> + +<p> +One day we did have at my suggestion a rather fanciful supper. Tony +tasted, ate, and cleared the dish. Then he asked: "An't 'ee got nort to +make a meal on, Missis? no cold meat nor spuds?" He believes in the +theory that good digestion waits on appetite rather than on digestible +or pre-digested foods; that the meal which makes a man's mouth water is +the best to eat; and that solid foods give solid strength. And if the +same dish can make his mouth water nearly every day in the week, how +much more fortunate is he than fickle gourmets! +</p> + +<p> +When I first came here, I used periodically to run after the +flesh-pots. I used to sneak off to tea at a confectioner's. Now I +seldom feed out of house—simply because I don't want to. We start the +day about sunrise with biscuits and a cup of tea which I make and take +up myself. (Mam Widger and Tony look so jolly in bed, her indoor +complexion and white nightgown beside his blue-check shirt and +magnificently tanned face, that I've dubbed them 'The Babes in the +Wood.') For breakfast, we have fried mackerel or herrings, when they +are in season; otherwise various mixtures of tough bacon and perhaps +eggs (children half an egg each) and bubble and squeak.<a href="#note14" name="noteref14"><sup>14</sup></a> Sometimes +the children prefer kettle-broth,<a href="#note15" name="noteref15"><sup>15</sup></a> but they never fail to clamour for +'jam zide plaate.' Bake, hot or cold, and occasionally (mainly for me, +I think) a plain pudding, or on highdays a pie, make up the dinner that +is partaken of by all. But before the pudding is eaten, Tony and myself +are already looking round to see that the kettle is on a hot part of +the fire, and when the children are gone off to school, Mam Widger +throws us out a cup o' tay each, with now and then a newly baked +gentry-cake. Tony, who would like meat or a fry of fish for tea, has +usually to content himself with bread and butter. The children go off +to bed with a biscuit or a small chunk of cheese, and we may eat the +same with pickles, or else fried or boiled fish if there is any in the +house.... Supper, in fact, is the meal of many inventions, including +all sorts of crabs, little lobsters, and such unsaleable fish as +dun-cow [dog-fish], conger, skate or weever, together with +dree-hap'orth, or a pint, of stout and bitter from the Alexandra. Just +before turning in, Tony and myself have a glass of hot grog. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>DRINK</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +From such a list of our fare, it would seem as if we over-ate ourselves +as consistently as the <i>en pension</i> visitors at the hotels. (Mrs +Widger, who has done a good deal of waiting, frequently tells us how +manfully the visitors endeavour to eat their money's worth at the +<i>tables d'hôte</i>). Tony's appetite—his habit of pecking at the +food after a meal is over and the way he, and the children too if they +have the chance, mop up pickles and Worcester sauce—is a continual joy +to me. We do not drink much alcohol. On the other hand, the children +are curiously discouraged from drinking cold water. Skim milk, tea, +stout, ale, or even very dilute spirit is considered better for them—a +prejudice which dates probably from the days before a pure water +supply. Since, however, I who am known to possess a contemptible +digestion, have been seen to drink down several glasses of cold water +daily, and to take no hurt, the ban on it has been more or less +removed. +</p> + +<p> +The above-mentioned goodies are distributed, it is true, over a good +many days in the year, and I fancy that my being here drives up the +scale of living somewhat. At all events, we do not go short. Waste on +the one side, mainly arising from small eyes being bigger than small +stomachs, is more than counterbalanced by a wonderful ability to +swallow down gristle, rinds and hard bits without apparent harm. +Granfer, indeed, says that he 'wouldn't gie a penny a pound for tender +meat that don't give 'ee summut to bite at.' The children clamour +always for 'jam zide plaate.' Without that or the promise of it, they +often refuse to eat anything. They do not believe me when I tell them +that they have more food than ever I did at their age; that I had to +eat a piece of bread and a potato for each slice of meat; that jam and +butter together was not thought good for me except on birthdays and +Sundays. "G'out!" they say. "Ye lie!" Sometimes their mother is +irritated into calling them 'cawdy li'l devils.' It does seem almost a +pity that they have not had any of the discipline of starvation. The +Yarty children who go half the day, and only too often whole days, on +empty stomachs, are certainly as happy as ours: they never cry because +dinner is not so good as they expect, and if we give them half a pie +their earth is straightway heavenly. Tony thinks now and then how hard +it will go with his children if the money runs short, as it has done +and may easily do again. "I mind the time," he says, "when I used to +come in hungry and kneel down beside me mother wi' me head across her +lap, crying! Her crying too; mother 'cause her hadn't got nort to eat +in house, and me 'cause her didn't get nort, and 'cause her cuden't get +nort, not even half an ounce o' tay, not havin' no money in house to +get it with. An' then I used to go out an' try an' earn something, +twopence maybe, just to stay us on." +</p> + +<p> +And that it is which has helped to make Tony the man he is. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +22 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A SUDDEN STORM</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Seldom does one catch the exact moment of an abrupt change in nature. +Yesterday, however, I watched a wonderful thing—the oncoming of a +sudden storm. +</p> + +<p> +Uncle Jake had been holding forth on the beach. "Us ain't had no +equinoctial gales thees year, not proper like us used to. This season's +going to break up sudden and wi' thunder, an' when it du, look out! I'd +rather be here now than out in the offing, for all the sea's so calm. +Ah!" pointing to a dinghy that was shoving off the beach, "they bwoys +'ould laugh in me faace if I was to go an' say, 'Don' go. 'Tisn't fit.' +But <i>I</i> knows." +</p> + +<p> +I left him gazing seaward over the stern of his drifter, and walked up +to the Western Cliffs. The air, scarcely a breath from the north-east, +was oppressive in the extreme; very warm, too, for autumn. The sea was +almost unruffled; the sky to westward magnificently heaped up with what +Uncle Jake calls wool-packs. A fog crept over all the southern horizon, +dimming with its misty approach the eastern headlands and making the +sea like a dulled mirror. I felt, rather than heard, distant thunder. +</p> + +<p> +The fog lifted. It hung low in the sky, a sulky blue cloud. Beneath it, +the sea, still unruffled, was of a dense blue that, so it seemed, would +have been black altogether but for its transparency and the refracted +light within it. +</p> + +<p> +Going on, I walked for some distance beneath a semi-arch of the +wind-bowed lichenous thorns that grow upon the cliff-edge. +</p> + +<p> +Without any warning—maybe there was a little hum in the air—a +leafless bough, like a withered arm with its sinews ragged out, bent +over across my path. The sea gulls screamed and screeched; they flocked +out from the cliff-ledges, and with still wings they towered up into +the sky. Every twig and leaf began to play a diabolic symphony. Where +the hedge ended I was blown back upon my heels.—It was more than half +a gale of wind from the south-east. +</p> + +<p> +The horizon was become clear; jagged like a saw. Divergent strings, +marvellously interlaced on the water, streamed in with the wind, +broadened into ribands fluttering over green-grey patches. The whole +sea trembled, as if life were being breathed into it. White spots, +curling wavelets, dotted it; then broke abroad as white-horses in full +mad landward career. The whistle in the grass rose louder and shriller; +the boughs bent further and let fly their autumn foliage horizontally +into the wind; the gulls screeched wildly and more wildly; the chafing +of the surf below took possession of the air.... +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>UNCLE JAKE ON FOOLS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +I saw the dinghy put about and run for shore. +</p> + +<p> +When I got back, Uncle Jake was still watching. +</p> + +<p> +"Ah!" he said. "Ah! Ah! I don't like they centre-keel boats wi' bumes +[booms]. They'm all right for fine weather, but.... Ah! They'm goin' to +gybe if they ain't careful. There! Did 'ee see? Why don't they ease +their sheet off more? If the wind catches thic sail the wrong side.... +Did 'ee see that? Thic bume was all but coming over. Gybe, gybe, yu +fules! Yu'm capsized if yu du, wi' thic heavy bume. Look'se! Have 'em +got their drop-keel up, I wonder? Not they! They thinks that's the same +as extra ballast. 'Twon't make no difference if a sea takes charge of +'em. Ah! did 'ee see the leach o' the sail flutter? Nearly over! Let +'em gybe, if they'm set on it. 'Twill upset they.—O-ho! They'm goin' +to haul down an' row for it. Best thing the likes o' they can du. They +calls me an ol' fule for joggin' along in my ol' craft while they has +drop-keels and bumes, all the latest. I've a-know'd thees yer sea for +fifty year an' more, an' I say, I tell thee, that two oars be better +than two reefs any day. Le'but the seas take charge o' one o' they +boats running afore the wind.... All up! They spins like a top, an' +gybes.... 'Tis all up! Howsbe-ever, they'm saafe now, if they don't +sheer broadside coming ashore. But <i>they</i> won't learn their +lesson; not they. They maakes fun o' us as knows. +</p> + +<p> +"There! the wind be softening now. I've a-know'd they thunder-puffs +come down on 'ee like a hurricane. If they lasted long.... 'Tis blowin' +out in the Channel still. The horizon's black—see? 'Twill back, an' +blow from the nor'east to-night, in here, but 'twill be east to +south-east in the Channel, an' wi' thees flood tide runnin' up against +it, yu'll see the say make!" +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +23 +</p> + +<p> +It did blow during the night; it must have been rough out in the +Channel; then the wind dropped to a light breeze. But before ever Tony +and myself were out of doors we heard the heave and thump of the long +easterly swell. +</p> + +<p> +We hauled the <i>Cock Robin</i> down to the water's edge, put in five +bags of ballast ("Doesn't look 's if it's blow'd itself out," said +Tony) and a spare oar—and stood and looked. +</p> + +<p> +"Be it wuth it?" he questioned. +</p> + +<p> +"Not much wind now, is there?" +</p> + +<p> +"Can the two o'us shove off in thees yer swell? Can ee see any o' the +other boats shoving down?" +</p> + +<p> +"No...." +</p> + +<p> +"There won't be much frighting to-day, for sure. Must make the day gude +if us can. Yer's a calm. Jump in quick. Shove! Shove, casn'! Row. Lemme +take an oar. Keep her head on. <i>Pull</i>—thic west'ard oar!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>PLUCK—</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +We were fairly afloat outside the surf-line, both of us very red in the +face. We upsailed—and away. After a few minutes' worry, deciding +whether the mainsail and mizzen without the foresail would be enough, +on a sea so much bigger than the wind, and looking for the <i>Cock +Robin's</i> chronic leak, the bouncing, tumbling and splashing, the +heave up and the mighty rushes down, put us both in high spirits. We +decided to hoist the foresail after all. "Let her bury her head if her +wants to!" +</p> + +<p> +Accordingly, I went for'ard to hook the foresail's tack to the bumkin +[short iron bowsprit]. The thimble was too small. As I sat on the bow +and leaned out over, my hand all but dipped into the waves. A stream of +water did once run up my sleeve. Looking round and seeing Tony smile, I +yelled back aft: "What be smiling 'bout, Tony?" He replied: "I was +a-gloryin' in yer pluck." +</p> + +<p> +Which was very pleasant to hear—for a moment. +</p> + +<p> +My position on the bow of the boat was absolutely safe, and I knew it. +There was no risk at all, except of a bruise or a wetting. My toe was +firmly hooked under the for'ard thwart, and short of my leg breaking, I +could not have lost my hold. Besides, even had I fallen overboard, I +could easily have swum round while Tony 'bouted the boat. Tony was +deceived. There was no pluck. +</p> + +<p> +His words set me thinking, and I had to recognise, rather bitterly, +that what I call pluck did not form a great part of my birthright. I +find myself too apprehensive by nature; imagine horrid possibilities +too keenly; and indeed would far rather hurt myself than think about +doing so. I suppose I have a certain amount of courage, for I am +usually successful in making myself do what I funk; but I like doing it +none the better for that. And up to the present, I have not failed +badly in tight corners. On the contrary, I find (like most nervy +people) that actual danger, once arrived, is curiously exhilarating; +that it makes one cooler and sharper, even happy. One has faced the +worst in imagination, and the reality is play beside it. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>AND COURAGE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +In the dictionary, <i>courage</i> is defined as 'The quality which +enables men to meet danger without fear.' <i>Pluck</i> is merely +defined as courage. There is, or ought to be, an essential difference +between the meaning of the two words. Courage is a premeditated matter, +into which the will enters, whilst pluck is an unpremeditated +expression of the personality, an innate quality which, so to speak, +does not need to be set in operation by the will. Courage rises to the +occasion; pluck is found ready for it. Would it not, therefore, be more +correct to say that <i>pluck</i> is the quality which enables men to +meet danger without fear: and that <i>courage</i> is the quality which +enables men to meet danger with fear overcome? The greatest courage +might go farther than the greatest pluck, but for occasions on which +either can be used, pluck, the more spontaneous, is also the superior. +Most of us are irregularly, erratically plucky; one man with horses, +who funks the sea; another man at sea who is afraid of horses. One man +who fears live fists may think nothing of watching by the dead. Another +who stands up pluckily in a fight, refuses to go near a corpse. One of +the pluckiest men I know 'don't like dogs.' Pluck runs in streaks, but +courage, to whatever degree a man possesses it, runs through him from +top to bottom. +</p> + +<p> +All the churches in the world may talk about sin and virtue, and make +most admirable and subtle distinctions. We know very well in our hearts +that pluck and courage are the great twin virtues, and that cowardice +is the fundamental sin. The perfectly plucky and courageous man would +never sin meanly; he would have no need to do so. He, and not the beefy +brute or the intellectual paragon, would be Superman. The Christ, it +often seems to me, keeps his hold on the world, and will keep it, not +because he was God-man or man-God, not because he was born normally or +abnormally, not because he redeemed mankind or didn't, not because he +provided a refuge for souls on their beam-ends, but because, of all the +great historic and legendary figures, he is the one who convinces us +that he was never afraid. In him, as we picture him, courage and pluck +were the same thing, and perfect. +</p> + +<p> +But the present point is, or points are: How many men whose pluck and +courage I have admired so much, have deceived me as I deceived Tony? +And what combination of pluck and courage is it which enables these +fishermen to follow their constantly dangerous occupation with equable +mind; which, indeed, enables so many working men to follow their +dangerous trades? For it is one thing to approach danger by way of +sport, and another to work for a livelihood <i>in</i> danger. +</p> + +<p> +One's analytics fail. It is, however, stupid merely to say, "Ah, they +are inured to it. Familiarity has bred contempt." Seafaring men realise +the dangers of the sea a good deal better than anyone else. Familiarity +with the sea does not breed contempt; the older the seaman the more +careful he is. I have met old seamen, heroes in their day, whom one +would almost call nervous on the water. And in any case, what a state +of mind it is—to be <i>inured</i> to danger! to be on familiar terms +with the possibility of death! to be able to flout, to play with, to +live on, that which all men fear! +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +24 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>LUSCOMBE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +I have been up the coast to have dinner and a chat with my old +coastguard friend, Ned Luscombe, the man who taught me knots and +splices during the night watches when I was a visitor here years ago. +To go to his house now is very pleasant. For a long time after their +first baby died on the day they entered a new house, before even the +beds were up, it seemed as if Mrs Luscombe, a gentle, delicate woman, +'with the deuce of a will of her own,' Luscombe says, was going to +decline and die too. The new baby, which was to have killed her, has +put new life into her instead. They are touchingly proud of it, and +very happy altogether. I do like to see married couples happy. +</p> + +<p> +Luscombe himself is rather an extraordinary man; short, vivacious and +solid; full of generous impulses, yet very well able to look after his +own interests. It was he who dared the neighbourhood, and caused his +wife to invite often to their house a crippled girl that had been raped +by a scoundrel and then given the cold-shoulder by everyone else. +Something of a sea-lawyer, he is one of the sharpest-brained—I don't +say deepest-thinking—men I have ever come across. Hardly educated at +all as a boy, he races through books (he read my Cary's <i>Dante</i> in +a week), extracts the main gist of them, and is always learning some +new thing, from shorthand to cooking, though he has no need to do much +but behave himself for a pension. Almost harshly honest, he yet brings +out with pride a large edition of Pope that he 'nicked' from the +second-hand bookstall of a heathen Chinee at Singapore. That little +episode will not make a very big blot, I imagine, on the Book of +Judgment. If I remember aright, the British Navy was then occupied in +protecting land or concessions that the nation itself had 'nicked' from +the heathen. +</p> + +<p> +Luscombe's opinion on books, men and things, unless it has been +borrowed from a newspaper, is always well worth hearing. His light of +nature, by which he judges, is exceptionally powerful. +</p> + +<p> +While we were smoking in his front room—furnished with a curious +mixture of cheap English things and beautiful Eastern curios—a steward +from one of the great liners came in. He began talking about the +behaviour in a gale of a rich snobbish Jew and the behaviour of Jews +generally on shipboard, and was inclined to take up the high, superior, +patriotic attitude that Jews, not being Englishmen, were necessarily a +nuisance in a storm. "Well," said Luscombe, "all I know is, when a man +tells me he's never been afraid of anything anywhere, I tells him to +his face, 'You'm a damn'd liar!' One day, in a pub at Plymouth, there +was a man—a bluejacket too—boasting he'd never known what fear was, +and I up and asked him, 'Eh, chum? Did you say <i>Never</i>?' +</p> + +<p> +"'Never!' he says. 'Never in me life!' +</p> + +<p> +"'You'm a liar then,' says I. +</p> + +<p> +"'We'll see,' says he—goodish-sized chap. +</p> + +<p> +"'You'm a bloody liar,' says I, 'and what's more, you ain't truthful.' +</p> + +<p> +"So we squared up there and then, and the bung and his men hyked us out +into the street and we was having our scrap out when the police came +up. He ran! 'Eh, Mr Liar!' I yelled after him. 'Did you say you was +never afraid?' +</p> + +<p> +"If I hadn't wasted time doing that, I shouldn't have got caught +either. Very nearly landed me in chokey, that did. We was shipmates +afterwards, me and that man, and very good friends. He's a warrant +officer now." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>LOWER DECK TO QUARTER-DECK</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Thence the conversation passed naturally to promotion from the ranks. +"I don't believe in it, not as a general rule," said Luscombe. +"Officers ought to be officers, and men ought to be men, and a ship's +always more comfortable when both keep their places. Rankers as +officers are apt to be bullies: that we all know jolly well. And +besides that, the likes of us can't keep our kecker up the same as +gen'lemen, and therefore I says we ain't fit for the quarter-deck, not +yet awhile. Tisn't that the lower deck ain't so brave as the +quarter-deck, because it is; only it can't keep it up so long; it gets +discouraged like, when 'tis a long job, specially when 'tis one of +those waiting-an-doing-nothing jobs. We ain't bred up to it, and our +fathers wasn't, and there's no good to be got out of trying to pretend +'tisn't so." +</p> + +<p> +We argued on. Luscombe would not yield an inch of his position. I can't +say offhand how far history bears him out, but I fancy that he is right +to this extent: the lower deck has less flexibility of mind. It cannot +view a depressing situation from so many sides at once. It is not, for +instance, so quick to see the underlying humour of an emergency; not so +ready to appreciate the so-called irony of fate. It cannot so easily +turn round and laugh at itself and its predicament. So, though the +lower deck's courage may be fully as great as, or greater than, that of +the upper deck, it is applied more constantly, with less mental +diversion, and therefore it tires sooner. Hence, it <i>may</i> not be +so effective. +</p> + +<p> +The argument undoubtedly has a true bearing on that sort of promotion +which, in the prevailing educational cant, is called giving every poor +boy (by free education, scholarships and other lures) his chance of +climbing to the top of the ladder—as if success in life were one great +tall ladder instead of many ladders of varying builds and heights. In +attempting to justify modern educational policy, its victims are egged +on too fast into a field of commercial, intellectual, or emotional +stress for which they lack the fundamental grit, or rather for which +the fundamental grit they do possess is not adapted, nor can be adapted +in a generation. Their spirit, fine and valuable for the old purpose +perhaps, is not suited to the new. Therefore, of good workmen <i>in +posse</i> we make bad clerks and shopmen <i>in esse</i>; of good clerks +detestable little bureaucrats or mean-minded commercial men, and so on. +Possible wives and mothers we turn into female creatures. And Merrie +England swarms with makeshift folk and breakdowns. +</p> + +<p> +Happily nature, heredity, sometimes intervenes, and at adolescence the +sharp boy, the pride of the examination room, develops into quite a +nice commonplace young man, like the missionaries' nigger boy, and is +saved, if he be not already committed to an unsuitable career. +Otherwise, what mental deformity and slaughter! It was well said that +education—what is called education—was the cruellest thing ever +forced upon the poor. Mam Widger agrees. She knows her two boys are +above the average in brains, but she says: "I'd far rather for them to +fend for themselves an' make gude fishermen like their father or gude +sailors like their uncles, than for 'em to be forced on by somebody +else to what they ain't fitted for. 'Tis God helps them as helps +themselves, they du reckon, but I can't see as he helps them as is +pushed." +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +25 +</p> + +<p> +Uncle Jake allows us fine weather for the Regatta. "But when it du +break up, after this yer logie [dull, hazy, calm] spell, look out!" he +says. "Iss; look out!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>WINKLING</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The day before yesterday, we were having a yarn together on the Front. +"Must go t'morrow an' pick Jemima Cayley some wrinkles [periwinkles]," +he said. "I got a lot o' work to do wi' my taties up to my plat +[allotment], but I promised Jemima her should hae 'em for Regatta, an' +her shall, if I lives to get 'em. Her says my wrinkles be twice so +heavy as anybody else's what her has—an' so they be, proper gert +gobbets! They t'other fellows don' know where to go for 'em, but I +du—master wrinkles, waiting there for Jake to pick 'em. On'y I ain't +goin' to tell they beer-barrels where 'em be. Not I!—Wude yu like to +come? Nobody goes where I goes." +</p> + +<p> +"Where's that?" +</p> + +<p> +"Ah! Down to Longo. Yu'll see, if yu comes." +</p> + +<p> +"Haven't yu got a mate for it then?" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>UNCLE JAKE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"<i>Mate!</i> I'd rather go be myself than wi' some o' they +bladder-headed friends o' brewers. <i>They</i> don' like wrinklin' wi' +Jake; makes 'em blow too much when they has to carry a bushel o' +wrinkles, like I've a-done often, over the rocks an' up the cliff, two +or dree miles home. They Double-X Barrels can't du that. Lord! can't +expect 'em to.—<i>We'll</i> go in the <i>Moondaisy</i> t'morrow, an' +then if we can't sail home, we can row, an' if it comes on a fresh +wind, we'll haul her up to Refuge Cove an' go'n look how my orchards be +getting on." +</p> + +<p> +It is good to hear Uncle Jake talk about the work that nobody else will +do. (The exposure alone would be too much for many of them.) His face +wrinkles up within its grey picture-frame beard, his keen yet wistful +eyes open wide, and he draws up that youthful body of his—clad in +faded blue jumper and torn trousers—on which the head of a venerable +old man seems so incongruously set. He is the owner of a big drifter +which hardly pays her expenses; he feels that taking out pleasure +parties is no work for a fisherman—'never wasn't used to be at the +beck an' call o' they sort o' people when I wer young';—and therefore +he picks up a living, laborious but very independent, between high and +low tide mark for many miles east and west of Seacombe. Nobody learns +exactly when or where he goes, nor what little valuables are in the old +sack that he carries. He seldom sleeps for more than two hours on end; +has breakfast at midnight, dinner in the early morning, and tea-supper +only if it happens to be handy; and he feeds mainly on bread, cheese, +sugar and much butter, with an occasional feast of half a dozen +mackerel at once, or a skate or a small conger. Singularly +straightforward in all his dealings, a little of the old West-country +wrecking spirit yet survives in him, and he enjoys nothing better than +smuggling jetsam past the coastguards. Social position saves no one +from hearing what Uncle Jake thinks. His tongue is loaded with scorn +and sarcasm, but his heart holds nothing but kindness. He will jeer and +taunt a man off the Front, and give him money round the corner or food +in house. His nicknames are terrible—they stick. Few would care to +turn and fight such an old man, and if they did he would almost +certainly knock them into the dust or throw them into the sea. He is +childless; and, since her illness several years ago, his wife, an +untidy woman with beautiful eyes, has been scatterbrained and more +trouble than use, a spender of his savings. He nursed her himself for +many months. He does most of the housework now. He may remark on his +wife, if he knows you very well, but about the childlessness he never +talks. +</p> + +<p> +At eight in the morning we made sail with the wind just north of east. +The little <i>Moondaisy</i> was full of sacks, old boots and gear. Past +Refuge Cove we sailed, past Dog Tooth Ledge, and across the out-ground +of Landlock Bay, which holds the last long stretch of pebble beach for +some miles down. Uncle Jake pointed to the western end of it. "If ever +yu'm catched down here by a sou'wester, yu can al'ays run ashore, just +there—calm as a mill-pond no matter how 'tis blowing. Yu can beach +there when yu can't beach to Seacombe for the roughness o' the sea. +Aye, I've a-done it! But yu can't get out o' Landlock Bay, though I +mind when you could climb up the cliff jest to the east'ard o' thic +roozing [landslip]. Howsbe-ever, 'tis a heavy gale from the south-east +on a long spring tide as'll drive 'ee out o' thic cave there where the +beach urns up. Now yu knows that: 'tisn't all o'em does." +</p> + +<p> +Similar bits of lore or reminiscence did he give me about every few +yards of the coastline. Most merrily had the easterly wind and a +following sea brought us down. Now we drew near the rocks, where at +high tide the land drops sheer to the water. In the dry sunshine, such +a sparkle was on the waves, such a shimmer on the high red cliffs, that +it was hard to follow Uncle Jake when he said, as if he revered the +place, "<i>'Tis</i> an ironbound show! <i>'Tis</i> a shop! Poor devils, +what gets throwed up here! But I know where ther's some fine copper +bolts waiting for me. I'll hae 'em! I've had some on 'em, an' I'll hae +the rest when they rots out o' the timbers. Year '63 that wreck +was—lovely vessel, loaded wi' corn. I mind it well. <i>'Twas</i> a +night!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>AN IRONBOUND SHOW</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +We ran the <i>Moondaisy</i> ashore at Brandey-Keg Cove—a little beach +running up into a deep gloomy cave where the smugglers used to store +their cargoes and haul them up over the cliff. "Us can walk down to +Lobster Ledge an' west from there to Tatie Rock. I knows where they +master gobbets be, if nobody an't had 'em—an' nobody an't. They don' +like this iron-bound shop. They leaves it to Jake. But they wuden't, if +they know'd what was here." +</p> + +<p> +I ate some of my breakfast while Uncle Jake was changing his boots and +shifting his outer clothing. He would accept only one of my small +cheese sandwiches. "I got some bread and butter here," he said, but I +'took partic'lar notice,' as Tony puts it, that he ate none of the +bread and butter. And he refused to take a second sip of my tea because +his sensitive nose detected that there had been whiskey in the bottle. +</p> + +<p> +As we walked along the rocks, he placed above high-tide mark what bits +of wreckage he could find, and kept a sharp look-out for any rabbits +which might have fallen over the cliff. The only two we found, however, +had been partially eaten by sea-gulls and rats. "Let 'em hae 'em an' +welcome," said Uncle Jake. "The winter's coming. I can't think how they +poor gulls lives when all the sea round about is a hustle o' froth. I +al'ays feeds 'em when I can. Don't yu think that <i>they</i> gets +hungry tu?" +</p> + +<p> +At Lobster Ledge—a jumble of peaked rocks with pools between—he left +his sack conspicuously on the top of a high stone, and hopped—seemed +to hop—down to a pool. "They'm here!" he cried. I heard them +clatter-clatter into his old cake tin, and then a tin-full rattle into +his sack. On those rocks, where few can step at all without great care, +he raced about, bent down double, and jumped and glided as actively as +an acrobat—a veritable rock-man. "Come here!" he called. "Jest yu turn +over thic stone. Ther's some there. My senses, what gobbets they be! If +they ther fuddle-heads what goes nosing about Broken Rocks, on'y +know'd...." +</p> + +<p> +Underneath the stone, clinging to it and lying on the bed of the pool, +were so many large winkles that instead of picking them out, I found it +quicker to sweep up handfuls of loose stuff and then to pick out the +refuse from the winkles. When Uncle Jake came across an unusually good +pocket he would call me to it and hop on somewhere else. There was an +element of sport in catching the dull-looking gobbets so many together. +I soon got to know the likely stones—heavy ones that wanted coaxing +over,—and discovered also that the winkles hide themselves in a green, +rather gelatinous weed, fuzzy like kale tops, from which they can be +combed with the fingers. They love, too, a shadowed pool which is +tainted a little, but not too much, by decaying vegetable matter. Uncle +Jake likes the stones turned back and then replaced 'as you finds 'em.' +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>WHAT GOBBETS THEY BE!</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +I emptied my baler, holding perhaps a quart, into the ballast-bag. How +one's back ached! How old and rheumaticy had one's knees suddenly +become! Uncle Jake feels nothing of that, for all his sixty-five years. +He still skipped from pool to pool. He flung me a lobster. "There! put +that in your bag for tay. Tide's dead low. The wind's dying away: sun's +burnt it up. Shuden' wonder if it don't come in sou'west, an' if it du +we'll hae a fair wind home along.—Well, how du 'ee like it? Eh?" +</p> + +<p> +"All right." +</p> + +<p> +"Ah! yu ought to be down here in the winter, like I been, when you got +to put your hands wet into your pockets to get 'em warm enough to feel +the gobbets—aye, to hold 'em! Then carry 'em five mile home on your +back to make 'ee warm again." +</p> + +<p> +So we went on: grab, grab, grab! clatter-clatter! rattle! We talked +less and worked harder, because we were tired. The tide crept up. The +wind veered to south-east and strengthened. "'Tis time to be off out of +thees yer," said Uncle Jake. "The lop'll rise when the flid tide makes. +Yu may know everything there is to know about fishing, but," he added +grimly, "if yu don' know when to be off, 'twill all o'it be no gude to +'ee some day. Blast thees wind! We'll hae to row home now, or ratch out +a couple o' miles to fetch in." +</p> + +<p> +We shouldered our sacks for the half-mile walk to the <i>Moondaisy</i>. +Walk.... Scramble! Uncle Jake seemed to glide from rock to rock, but +with two or three stone weight awkwardly perched on my shoulder, the +wet running down my neck and an arm going numb, I slithered down the +weed-covered slopes in a very breakneck fashion. I rather felt for the +bladderheads who refuse to go wrinkling far from home. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>CAUGHT BY THE TIDE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Afloat again, we used the winkles for ballast in place of shingle. The +lop <i>had</i> made, and was against us. We rowed up Landlock Bay to +the western side of Dog Tooth Ledge. Uncle Jake made an exclamation and +stood up. "What's that? Whoever's that? There! down there to Lobster +Ledge! A gen'leman an' lady, looks so. How did us come to miss they? +Look! They'm sittin' down, the fules!—Hi, yu! Hi! Hi!—They'm catched. +When yu see the water washing over the Dog's Tooth, yu can't get round +the ledge wi'out swimming.—Hi, yu! Hi!—They'm in for a night o'it +sure, till the tide falls, if we don' take 'em round to Refuge Cove. +Ther's nowhere there where they be, to get upon land.—Hi! Hi! +Yu!—They'm mazed. An' her an't got no stockings on nuther.—Hi! hi! +Hurry up!—Can't bide here all day. The flid and the sea's making +fast." +</p> + +<p> +They came on at a leisurely pace. The Dog's Tooth was continuously +awash. Spray broke on it. "D'yu know," said Uncle Jake when they were +near enough, "that yu'm catched by the tide? Yu'm in for a night o'it +on this yer beach, wi'out yu swims round the ledge or lets we row yu to +the lane in Refuge Cove. Yu can't get up on land herefrom." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh...." said the man. "We'd better come on board your boat then." +</p> + +<p> +It took Uncle Jake nearly half-an-hour to row the three-quarters of a +mile across the tide-rip on the ledge and into Refuge Cove. I carefully +refrained from doing anything to lead them to suppose that they were +aboard other than a fishing boat. It was Uncle Jake's expedition: his +the prospective reward. When I helped the man ashore, he put some +coppers into my hand. "There's threepence for the old man's tobacco," +he said with an air of great benevolence. I was too surprised to speak: +I pushed off and then burst into a laugh. +</p> + +<p> +"What did 'er give 'ee?" +</p> + +<p> +"Threepence. <i>Threepence!</i> For your tobacco!" +</p> + +<p> +"Thank yu. I don't use tobacco. Yu'd better keep thic donation. They'd +ha' catched their death o' cold there all night, an' there ain't no +other boats down here along, nor won't be. That's what they reckons +their bloody lives be worth, an' that's what the lives of the likes o' +they <i>be</i> worth, tu! Dreepence! My senses...." +</p> + +<p> +We roared with laughter. It put heart into us for our stiff row home +against wind, wave and tide. When I went for'ard to place the cut-rope +ready, Uncle Jake had to call me aft again: spite of his strength the +boat was being beaten to leeward. +</p> + +<p> +It was nearly four o'clock when we had hauled up and were carrying the +winkles on our backs down one of the untidy little roadways into Under +Town. No dinner or high-tea was waiting for Uncle Jake. The house was +unswept. How draggled the little bits of fern in the old china pots +looked! The fire was out; the hearth piled up with ashes; and on the +table stood a basin of potatoes in water, most of them unpeeled. +</p> + +<p> +Uncle Jake came to a standstill, acutely alive in the midst of a +domestic deadness. He raised himself upright beneath his load of +winkles. "That's what I got to put up wi'," he said. "An't had a bite +since breakfast at four by the clock this morning, 'cept thic sandwich +o' yours. Tis a wonder how I du put up wi' it. I don' know for sure." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MEASURING UP</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Thees is what I got to put up wi'!" he repeated when Mrs Jake came in +from a neighbour's. +</p> + +<p> +"I forgot," she said with a gay high-pitched little laugh which had in +it a tang of acquiescent despair—the echo of a mind that has ceased +fighting anything, even itself. +</p> + +<p> +"Forgot! Yu forgets!" Then in a softer tone: "Gie us the quart cup." +</p> + +<p> +He emptied my winkles out upon the stone floor, knelt down, and +measured them back into the ballast-bag: "one—two—three—four, that's +one—five—six—seven—eight, that's two pecks—nine—ten—half a peck +over; good for you, skipper!" He had four pecks himself, together with +several small lobsters which he threw out to me. +</p> + +<p> +"But you'll eat those...." +</p> + +<p> +"No, I shan't. Don't want 'em. Take 'em in home for yer tay." +</p> + +<p> +Then he hunted out of an inside breast-pocket a screw of newspaper, and +from it took a half-crown piece: +</p> + +<p> +"That's your share." +</p> + +<p> +"But...." +</p> + +<p> +"Go on! If you hadn' a-come I should ha' been the poorer by more'n +that, an' that's what one o' they beery bladderheads would ha' had if +they'd a-come—on'y I won't hae 'em 'long wi' me. Better yu to hae it +than one o' they, to gie to the brewer. I wishes 'ee to take it. Yu've +earned it, an' thank yu for your help. <i>I</i> done all right out +o'it." +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +26 +</p> + +<p> +The Regatta has gone off well. The day was fine, the wind nor'west and +not too squally. There was a brave show of bunting; very many people +and several bands came down to the short Front; and there were races on +the water, in the water, and, in the evening, on land. The sea +sparkled. The place was all of a flutter. Uncle Jake, irritated by the +invasion of his beach, became most scornful over the abundance of high +starched collars, and the kid gloves of the shop-assistants. Some of +the young Seacombe braves collected round to tease him and, if +possible, to work him into one of his famous passions. But they dared +not so much as nudge him; he is too earnest, too vigorous. He lashed +them off with his tongue. And when a dinghy capsized through trying to +sail off the wind in a squall, it was the old man who was quickest at +the water's edge with a punt, and first on the spot, although a +four-oared boat raced out to the rescue. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>REGATTA</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Some of the Widgers won races, I believe. One takes no great note of +prizes: they are too small. The Regatta is not primarily an affair of +the fisherfolk; to take any great part in it would be to neglect their +own work; and when they do race, they have a neat method of defeating +the patronage of the townsfolk who provide prize-money in order that +they and the visitors may enjoy the spectacle of fishermen (in fisher +phrase) pulling their insides out for nort. The prize-money is pooled +and divided among all the competitors. In consequence, the races are +rowed and sailed with great dignity, and many of the visitors excite +themselves halfway to delirium over the extreme—the make-believe +closeness of the finishes. It is not very sporting perhaps, but +indulgence in the sporting spirit is for those who can afford it. The +Seacombe fisherfolk can't. +</p> + +<p> +A confounding number of the Widger family and its connexions arrived by +boat, road and rail. Two or three grand teas were provided one after +the other. Mrs Widger—looking really very young, alert, and +pretty—packed the children off to the beach with gentry-cakes in their +hands. Well she did so, for every chair in the kitchen was occupied by +some relative, and the display of best clothes was most alarming. Worst +of all, one party had brought the family idiot—a simpering, lollopy +creature, stiff in the wrong places, who could not feed himself +properly. With a vigorous tapping of the forehead, he was pointed out +to me. "He's a little deeficient, you know, sir—something lacking." +The idiot, finding himself the centre of attraction, fairly crowed with +delight. "Ou-ah!" he went. "Ou-ah! ou-ah!" +</p> + +<p> +On the pretext that a boat wanted hauling up, I escaped, with a piece +of bread and jam in my hand, like the children. +</p> + +<p> +A man of slightly unsober dignity accosted me in the Gut, and asked if +Jim somebody-or-other was within. "Him and me don't speak, nor eet +meet," he explained. "I won't hae nort to do wi' he, nor enter the +house where he is, for all we be related.—Come an' have a drink 'long +wi' me, sir; now du; I asks 'ee.—'Tis safer, yu know, for us not to +meet." +</p> + +<p> +For the second time I lied, and escaped. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE VETERANS' RACE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Uncle Jake ran up from the beach. "Yer!" he said, "there's a race to +Saltmeadow, a veteran's race, for men over fifty. Yu come wi' me, an' +I'll go in for it—an' beat the lot, I will. I knows I can." Off we +went, Uncle Jake in a high excitement. At the centre of the big oblong +ring, two clean-built jumpers, men in the heyday of their strength, +were making a local record for the high jump. Uncle Jake shouted out +praise and sympathy to them. We found our way to where the veterans +were grouped together, encouraging each other to enter with much foul +language—which made them feel young again, no doubt. What a lot they +were! some aged to thinness, others become fat and piggish. Only Uncle +Jake appeared quite sound in wind and limb. He took off his boots and +stockings, walked into the ring with a fine imitation of the athlete's +swagger combined with a curious touch of shyness. "Go it Uncle Jake!" +they shouted. At the end of the first lap, he found himself so far +ahead that he threw his old round sailor's cap high into the air and +caught it, and he skipped along to the winning-post like a young lamb. +A great cheer was echoed from cliff to cliff. Uncle Jake has not spoken +his mind all his life for nothing. Seacombe does not unanimously like +him, but it has the sense to be rather proud of him. A veterans' race +is usually a sad spectacle, a grotesque <i>memento mori</i>: for Uncle +Jake 'twas a triumph. +</p> + +<p> +The next great sight of the evening was to watch the fishermen from +other villages put off to their boats. Most of them were 'half seas +over,' some nearly helpless. They were thrown aboard from the punts and +had their sails hoisted for them; or, if they did it themselves, it was +with most comic jerks. The gods, who undoubtedly have a tenderness for +drunkards—why not?—must have looked after them, for no news has come +of any accident. +</p> + +<p> +On returning in house, I met Tony with several of his men relatives. He +drew me aside. "Maybe I'll come home drunk to-night, but I promise 'ee +I won't disturb 'ee, an' if yu hears ort—well, yu'll know, won' 'ee?" +</p> + +<p> +For some reason not easily to be fathomed his kindly warning made me +feel ashamed of my own sobriety, ashamed that I dared not 'go on the +bust' with him. I firmly believe that it does a man good to 'go on the +bust' occasionally. It develops fellow-feeling. And besides, who has +the right to cast a stone at a man for snatching a little jollity when +he may, be it alcoholic or not? The truth is, that Tony, who has no +craving for drink, was prepared to plunge into the fastest current of +the life around him, and to take his chance, whilst I, for niggardly, +self-preservative, prudential reasons, was not. +</p> + +<p> +However, he came home quite sober. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +27 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE SQUARE'S AWAKENING</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Up-country, next week, I shall greatly miss my window overlooking +Alexandra Square. I have lived (rebelliously) in suburban streets where +only clattering feet, tradesmen's carts and pitiful street singers +broke the monotony; in a Paris <i>chambre à garçon, au sixième</i>, +where the view was roofs and the noise of the city was attenuated to a +murmur; in country houses which looked out on sweeps of hill, down, +vale and sea, so changeable and lovely that they were dreamlike and as +a dream abide in the memory.... Here I have quick human life just below +my window, and—up the Gut—a view of the sea unbroken hence to the +horizon; a patch of water framed on three sides by straight walls and +on the fourth by the sky-line; a miniature ocean across which the +drifters sail to the western offing, and the little boats curvet to and +fro, and +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>The stately ships go on</p> +<p>To their haven under the hill.</p></div></div> + +<p> +There is always, here, a sound of the sea. When, at night, the Square +is still, it seems to advance, to come nearer, to be claiming one for +its own. +</p> + +<p> +But the Square, though still at night compared with daytime, is never +dead, never absolutely asleep. Fishermen returning from sea crunch on +the gravel. Lights in the windows (most of the people seem to burn +night lamps) give it a cosy appearance; the cats make one think that +fiends are pouring out of hell, through a hole in the roadway. Peep o' +day is the stillest time of all. The cats seat themselves on walls. +Sparrows chirp sleepily. Some rooks and a hoary-headed jackdaw come +down from the trees nearby, quarter the roadway for garbage, and fly +away croaking. Busy starlings follow. If the weather is hard and fish +offal scarce on the beach, the gulls will pay us a supercilious visit. +About six o'clock the children begin singing in bed, and soon +afterwards one hears the familiar conversation of families getting up. +"Edie! what for the Lord's sake be yu doing? Yu'll catch your death o' +cold. Johnnie, if yu don't make haste, I'll knock your head off, I +will!" A child or two may cry, but on the whole their merriment does +not seem greatly damped by their mothers' blood-curdling threats. I +hear also, but not very often, the shrill wailing monotone, the weep +dissolved in a shout, of a woman upbraiding her man for the previous +night. +</p> + +<p> +The children being dressed, but not washed (it is useless to wash the +average child very long before sending it off to school), they run out +to the beach to see what there is to be seen and to inspect the +ash-buckets for treasure. An ash-bucket is Eldorado to them. If nothing +is happening, are they at a loss for something to do? By no means. They +come in house, fetch out tin cans, and beat them in a procession round +the Square. +</p> + +<p> +The milkmen arrive, then several greengrocers. One would think that +Under Town lived on vegetables. The explanation is that the +greengrocers can come here, and, in tidying up their carts, can throw +their refuse upon the roadway, as they would not be allowed to do in +'higher class' streets. They swear genially at the housewives, and are +forgiven. +</p> + +<p> +So the work and gossip of the day goes on, with a slight quieting down +in the afternoon and an incredible amount of conversation after work, +in the evening. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE ALEXANDRA BACK-DOOR</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +On Sundays, the great fact of best clothes lends a different and, to my +mind, a less pleasant—a harder—tone to the children's voices. But +their merriment cannot wholly be suppressed. Did those who dislike the +Salvation Army wish to illustrate its shortcomings, they could find a +biting satire ready-made by the children of Under Town. A fat small boy +comes round here, who has attentively studied the meetings; who can +copy the canting, up-and-down, gentle-explosive, the <i>Behold I am +saved, ye sinners</i>! tone to a nicety. He marches at the head of a +band of serious infants who bear rags, tied to sticks and parasols, as +banners. Every now and then he circles them to a standstill for an +harangue about blood, fire and Jesus. (It is the gory part which +delights him.) Then the procession re-forms, imitating brass +instruments as unbroken voices can, and singing a Salvation hymn. They +are earnest, the children; except Tommy Widger, whose irrepressible +spirit causes him to march in the rear with a mocking dance and an +infinitely grotesque squint. He is a pagan. He can turn the children's +serious imitation into roaring Aristophanic farce. He represents the +healthful laughing element of an age wherein rest from sorrow is too +much sought in fever. He infects us all with jollity. +</p> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p> +The back-door of the Alexandra, which opens on the Gut, is my home +comedy. It is strangely fascinating; sad in a way, but very human; for +nothing on earth, except one or two of the very great things of life, +is so democratic as the back-door of a public house. Soon after +breakfast, or even before, the tradesmen sneak round for their +pick-me-ups. Then the housewives go for their jugs of ale and stout. +Some people never enter the Alexandra except by the back way. They +march down the Gut as if on important business; then, in the twinkling +of an eye, they are gone within. One worn little woman, who wears a +loose cape and a squalid sailor hat, walks up and down the Gut till it +is completely clear, then jumps into the door, and closes it very +quietly. When she comes out again it is as a rabbit comes from a +bolt-hole when a ferret is just behind. She runs five yards, stands +still, looks up and down, and tries very hard to walk home +unconcernedly. Sunday evenings, she hangs about outside until the bar +is opened. With the turn of the key, in she goes. Once a servant, +gossiping with her sailorman, kept the little woman outside for fully +ten minutes after the lock was shot back. Poor little woman, how great +her craving must be! +</p> + +<p> +Last week, I saw a policeman standing at the top of the Gut. Up he +looked; down he looked; Seacombe was orderly. Stepping as if to arrest +a malefactor, he marched down the Gut.... Where was the policeman? A +battered billycock and a rakish pipe looked round the corner, then +withdrew. The battered billycock knew where the policeman was. The +price of a glass, and billycock would have been there too. +</p> + +<p> +I was glad; for a few days before that the same policeman had arrested +a man by flinging him halfway across the street into the mud. It was +only a tramp. His witnesses, being poor people, dared not volunteer to +give evidence on his behalf, and would not have been believed had they +done so. He was sentenced to fourteen days: drunk and incapable, +abusive moreover. A drunkard cannot legally be arrested unless he is +also incapable or disorderly. It used to be a trick of the police to +shadow a harmless <i>Weary Willie</i> until he happened to stumble, or +even to butt him down themselves. He then becomes drunk and incapable +within the meaning of the act, for, if the magistrate should doubt, is +there not dirt on his clothes? Obviously, circumstantially, he was +incapable. <i>He</i>, of course, must be a poor man. The trick is not +safe with tradesmen. These things are commonplaces amongst the poor. +</p> + +<p> +But billycock hat will not forget! +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +28 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MACKEREL DRIFTING</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Yesterday morning early there was a great excitement along the beach. +Drift-boats could be seen in the offing. "I tell thee what 'tis," they +said, "the whiting be in an' us chaps an't been out to look for 'em. Us +don't du nort nowadays like us used tu." Later on, however, we heard +that the Plymouth drifters had been out after an autumn shoal of +mackerel, had caught some thousands and had made good prices. The +season for mackerel drifting here usually ends with July or August, but +good October mackerel, mixed with herring, have occasionally been +caught. Tony, John and myself decided to put to sea. When the other +boats saw our fleet of nets being hauled aboard (in a furious hurry), +they fitted out too. +</p> + +<p> +We shoved off just before dark. The wind was strongish WSW.—off land, +that is—so that inshore the sea was almost calm, except for the swell +running in from outside. What it was like outside the white horses and +the wind-streaks showed. Hardly had we gone half a mile before we heard +the queer clutching noise which meant that a strong puff of wind had +compelled Tony to let the sheet fly. The squall past, he hauled it in +again, put his legs across the stern and hung on. We sailed eight miles +from land in ten minutes under the hour—speed, that, for a +twenty-two-foot open boat with its mainsail reefed! Where we downhauled +to shoot the nets, the sea, unsheltered by cliffs and headlands, +was—as Tony beautifully put it—'rising all up in heaps.' Whilst I was +trying to keep the boat before the wind, for net-shooting, a great +comber plopped over the stern right upon my back. The sky was weird. +Great wind-drifts of rain-cloud constantly spread out from the west, +and wolves, higher up in the sky, were driving across the moon. We +heated tea, but did not try to sleep. Tony and John kept up a curious +dialogue. "What do 'ee think o' it, then?" +</p> + +<p> +"'Tisn't vitty. I said so all along." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>HAULING INBOARD</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"If a skat o' rain comes—and 'tis raining on land, seems so—the +wind'll back out to sou'west, an' us'll hae to rin for it. A perty +lop'll get up tu, an' we'm more'n a mile from land." +</p> + +<p> +"Us'll haul in be 'leven. No gude hanging on out here. If the wind +<i>du</i> back...." +</p> + +<p> +I have never heard them talk so much about the weather. And all the +while, the sky drove into splendid cloud-forms, all windy, nearly all +rainy. We lost the Eddystone light, then lost the Seacombe light and +recovered the former, as a storm drifted along shore. From time to time +we thought the wind was backing a bit. +</p> + +<p> +Supper, for me, had to be crammed down on a rather queasy stomach. +"We'm all ways to once!" Tony remarked. The wind did definitely back a +point or two. "Only let it once die away," said Tony in the tone of +<i>I told you so</i>; "then yu'll see how it can spring from the +sou'west when 'tis a-minded." +</p> + +<p> +One minute I wished myself home, safe in bed, and thought with +grotesque grief of some unfinished work. Next minute, I knew that I +would not have missed the night out there for any consideration. The +grey, slightly sheeny boil of the sea around us; the sweeping savagery +of the sky; the intimacy of the waters.... +</p> + +<p> +But we were all relieved when eleven o'clock came. The watchfulness was +a strain. +</p> + +<p> +When one is steering instead of hauling, the getting-in of nine +forty-fathom nets seems interminable. One net, two nets, three nets—a +third of nine,—four, five—more than half the fleet,—six—two-thirds +of nine,—seven, eight—nine all but one;—and so on, with an +occasional wave coming inboard, until the very last square buoy comes +bobbing towards the boat; hand over hand, buoy by buoy, net by net, +holding fast when the pull of the tide is too strong, and pausing +irritably to pick out the fish. We stepped the great mast, shifted all +the ballast to wind'ard. John came aft to steer, and seated himself on +the counter, a strangely powerful, statuesque figure in his wet +oilskins. "Have 'ee got the sheet in yer hand?" Tony called out from +the bows. +</p> + +<p> +John did not trouble to reply. +</p> + +<p> +"Have 'ee got the sheet in yer hand, John?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, I an't! What the hell do 'ee want the sheet for? Wind's abeam." +</p> + +<p> +"Might want it bad," said Tony. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A REMBRANDTESQUE PICTURE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +We left it fast however; and with the same, an elemental passion took +possession of my mind; ousted all else. I had been anxious about the +sheet, had thought John foolhardy. Now I didn't care. I could have +cried out aloud for joy as the brave old craft rose to the seas with a +marvellous easy motion and the waves came skatting in over the bows. +Before long, I was on my knees with the baler; John was getting every +inch out of the wind, and Tony was standing abaft the nets with the +sheet dangling through his hand. By the light of the riding-lamp on the +mizzen mast (its glass patched with an old jam cover), they in their +angular wet oil-skins—the rain was pelting—and the rich wet brown of +the boat's varnish, made a wonderful Rembrandtesque picture. I hardly +know how long we were sailing home; it slipped my mind to take the +time. About two o'clock I was halfway down the beach with Tony cursing +above me and John doing the same below. Someone had 'messed up' our +capstan wire. While Tony was putting that right in the dark—and +pinching his fingers severely—the boat washed broadside on and began +to fill. We had only five dozen fish. They sold badly. +</p> + +<p> +In time, and with practice, I could, I believe, do most that these +fishermen do except one thing: I doubt I could stand the racket of my +own thoughts. Tony and John would go out to-night, to-morrow, every +night. But I have slept so dead (not from bodily tiredness) that, the +door being bolted against the children, they were unable to waken me +for dinner, and in the end Tony told them to 'let the poor beast bide.' +Of what nature was that passion, so exultant and so tiring? Are these +fishermen so used to it that they 'don't take much note o'it'? For they +feel it. I have seen it in their faces. One can always tell. The eyes +widen and brighten; hasty movements become so desperately cool. If what +was an episode in my life, is part and parcel of theirs, how much the +better for <i>them</i>! +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +29 +</p> + +<p> +To-day the sea passion, or whatever it is, came again. +</p> + +<p> +While I was asleep, the wind backed and freshened. Balks of wood from a +naval target kept washing in. Balks make winter firing when coal is +dear and money scarce. Boats had been bringing them in all the morning, +till the sea became too rough. Tony had none however. In the afternoon +he complained bitterly: +</p> + +<p> +"They all got some wude but me, an' us an't got enough in house for the +winter nuther." Just then we saw a large piece washing along on the +flood tide over the outside of Broken Rocks. "Get a rope—grass rope, +mind. Down with her. The <i>Cock Robin</i>! Quick. Jump aboard. Take +oars. Hurry up casn'? Get hold thic oar. Look out!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>OUT AFTER FLOTSAM</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +No time to wait for a smooth. Tony shoved the <i>Cock Robin</i> into a +surf we should not otherwise have thought of facing. As it turned out, +we got off better than we usually do in only a moderate sea, though we +should have capsized to a certainty had the boat sheered. 'Twas, "Look +out! Damme, look out! Here's a swell coming! Get her head to it or we'm +over. Gude for us!" Some of the waves, rising and topping in the +shallow water over the rocks, seemed to make the <i>Cock Robin</i> sit +upright on her stern, like a dog begging, and the higher the seas rose +the more we gloried in them. Sufficient for the moment was the wave +thereof. We swore at each other in a sort of chant. I had to repress an +impulse to jump overboard and swim to the balk, instead of trying to +work up to it with a boat that had, every other moment, to be turned +bows on to the sea. The slightest error of judgment on Tony's part, and +we should indeed have swum for it. I had such a curious feeling of +being <i>in</i> the sea—as much a part of it as the waves +themselves—that the affair ceased to be a struggle. It became a +glorious great big game. Yet for work we were so cool that, though we +towed our balk ashore and shoved off after another, we hardly got wet +above the knees. +</p> + +<p> +We were beside ourselves, and all ourselves. Where does that exultant +feeling, that devil-beyond-oneself, come from? From what depth of human +personality does it uprise, whirling, like those primitive +passions—sex, hunger, rage, fear—which may be boxed up awhile by the +will, but which, once unloosed, sweep the will aside and carry one off +like froth in a gale, until physical exhaustion sets in and allows the +will to re-assert itself? One understands the evolution of the +primitive self-preservative and race-preservative passions. How has +this latent daredevilry become so implanted in us that it rises from +the bottom depths of one's nature; and how has it become ordinarily so +hidden? +</p> + +<p> +Above all what is the effect of this passion on seafaring men? To say +that familiarity breeds contempt is—even if it be correct—to beg the +question. What is the effect of that familiarity? It might be said that +they are the subjects of a sub-acute, persistent form of the +daredevilry which uprose in me unexpectedly and acutely. But again, the +sub-acute lifelong form of it is likely to have the greater influence +on a man's self, on his morale and his character. Hence, I believe, the +width of these men, their largeness. It was good to hear Tony talk in +the most matter-of-fact manner (yet with a touch of reverence, as +towards an ever-possible contingency) of a Salcombe fisherman who was +drowned. "Her was drownded all through his own carelessness, and didn't +rise in the water for a month. ('Tis nine days down and nine days up, +wi' the crab bites out of 'ee, as a rule.) An' he wer carried up by the +tide an' collected, like, out o' the water just at the back o' his own +house. Nice quiet chap he was." That coolness of speech one saw +plainly, is the outcome not of contempt, still less of non-feeling, but +of familiarity, of a breadth of mind in looking at the catastrophe. I +have not noticed such breadth of mind elsewhere except among those who +live precariously and the few of very great religious faith. +</p> + +<p> +An hour after bringing in the balks, we were hauling the boats over the +wall, and at high tide the seas swept across the road. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +30 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A SING-SONG</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Many an evening we have had small sing-songs in the kitchen. To-night, +on account of my going and the need to give me a cheery send-off, we +had quite a concert. Tony was star. +</p> + +<p> +Supper being pushed back on the table and a piece of wreckage flung on +the fire, he made himself ready by taking off his soaked boots and +stockings, and plumping his feet on Mam Widger's lap; then brought +himself into the vocal mood with a long rigmarole that he used to +recite with the Mummers at Christmas time. Soon we were humming, +whistling and singing "Sweet Evelina," whose sole musical merit is that +her chorus goes with a swing. The fire crackled and burnt blue. The +fragrant steam of the grog rose to the ceiling and settled on the +window. We leaned right back in our chairs. +</p> + +<p> +"Missis," said Tony, "I feels like zingin' to-night." +</p> + +<p> +"Wait a minute while I shuts the door, else they kids'll be down for +more supper." +</p> + +<p> +"Us got it, an't us?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, but <i>they</i>'ve had enough." +</p> + +<p> +When Tony sings, he throws his head back and closes his eyes, so that, +but for the motions of his mouth, he looks asleep, even deathlike, and +is, in fact, withdrawn into himself. +</p> + +<p> +I think he sees his songs, as well as sings them. I often wonder what +pictures are flitting through his mind beneath (as I imagine) the place +where the thick grizzled hair thins to the red forehead. His voice is a +high tenor. I make accompaniment an octave below, whilst Mrs Widger—a +little nasal in tone and not infrequently adrift in tune—supports him +from above. +</p> + +<p> +We sang "The Poor Smuggler's Boy"— +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Your pity I crave,</p> +<p class="i2">Won't you give me employ?</p> +<p>Or forlorn I must wander,</p> +<p class="i2">Said the poor smuggler's boy.</p></div></div> + +<p> +Then the "Skipper and his Boy"— +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Over the mounting waves so 'igh,</p> +<p>We'll sail together, my boy and I-I,</p> +<p>We'll sail together, my bo-oy and I!</p></div></div> + +<p> +"Have 'ee wrote to George?" Tony asked. +</p> + +<p> +"'Tis your place to du that." +</p> + +<p> +"I an't got time...." +</p> + +<p> +"Thee asn't got time for nort!" +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>The fisher's is a merry life!</p> +<p class="i4">Blow, winds, blow!</p> +<p>The fisher and his vitty wife!</p> +<p class="i4">Row, boys, row!</p> +<p>He drives no plough on stubborn land,</p> +<p>His fruits are ready to his hand.</p> +<p>No nipping frosts his orchards fear,</p> +<p>He has his autumn all the year,</p> +<p class="i4">Blow, winds, blow!</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>The farmer has his rent to pay,</p> +<p class="i4">Blow, winds, blow!</p> +<p>And seeds to purchase every day,</p> +<p class="i4">Row, boys, row!</p> +<p>But he who farms the rolling deep,</p> +<p>He never sows, can always reap,</p> +<p>The ocean's fields are fair and free,</p> +<p>There ain't no rent days on the sea;</p> +<p class="i2">The fisher's is a merry life!</p> +<p class="i4">Blow, winds, blow!</p> +<p class="i4">Blow, damn ye, blow!</p></div></div> + +<p> +"Aye!" said Tony with conviction, "thic's one side o'it." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn">"<i>ROLLING HOME</i>"</span> +</p> + +<p> +He tried a note or two at different pitches, then struck with energy +into the fine song, "Rolling Home." (Who that has steered for England +in a ship—and by ship I do not mean a bustling steam-packet or a +floating hotel, but a ship to whose crew England stands for fresh food, +women, wine, home.... Who that has so steered the course for England, +does not feel a catch at his vitals on hearing the melody, at once +plaintive and triumphant, of "Rolling Home?") +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Pipe all hands to man the capstan, see your cables run down clear;</p> +<p>Soon our ship will weigh her anchor, for old England's shores we steer;</p> +<p>If we heave round with a will boys, soon our anchor it will trip,</p> +<p>And across the briny ocean we will steer our gallant ship:</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home, rolling home!</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home across the sea!</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home to Merrie England!</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home, true love, to thee!</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Man the bars then with a will, boys, clap all hands that can clap on;</p> +<p>As we heave around the capstan, we will sing this well-known song;</p> +<p>It will bring back scenes and changes of this parting gift so rare;</p> +<p>We shall hear sweet songs of music softly whispering through the air.</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home, rolling home!</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home across the sea!</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home to Merrie England!</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home, true love, to thee!</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Up aloft amid the rigging, as we sail the waters blue,</p> +<p>Whilst we cross the briny ocean, we will always think of you;</p> +<p>We will leave you our best wishes as we leave this rocky shore;</p> +<p>We are bound for Merrie England, to return to you no more!</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home, rolling home!</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home, across the sea!</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home to Merrie England!</p> +<p class="i8">Rolling home, my love to thee!</p></div></div> + +<p> +To Mrs Widger's great disgust, Tony has been learning <i>in bed</i> the +correct words (he knew the tune) of "Gay Spanish Ladies." That he gave +us as a finale. +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Farewell and adieu to you, gay Spanish Ladies.</p> +<p>Farewell and adieu to you, Ladies of Spain!</p> +<p>For we've received orders for to sail for old England.</p> +<p>But we hope in a short time to see you again.</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>We'll rant and we'll roar like true British heroes,</p> +<p>We'll rant and we'll roar across the salt seas,</p> +<p>Until we strike soundings in the Channel of old England.</p> +<p>From Ushant to Scilly is thirty-five leagues....</p></div></div> + +<p> +How we did rant and roar the wonderful up-Channel verse, with its +clever use of the high-sounding promontories of the south! +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>The first land we made, it was called the Deadman,</p> +<p>Next Ram Head off Plymouth, Start, Portland and Wight,</p> +<p>We passed up by Beachy, by Parley and Dungeness,</p> +<p>And hove our ship to off the South Foreland light....</p></div></div> + +<p> +Our glasses were empty. We drove out the cat, gutted some fish, +extinguished the lamp, and came upstairs to the tune, repeated, of +"Rolling Home." All the tunes are ringing in my head. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>ART THAT IS LIVED</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +There is something about this singing of sea-songs by a seafarer which +makes them grip one extraordinarily. They are far from perfect in +execution, they are not always quite in tune, especially on Tony's high +notes, yet, I am certain, they are as artistic in the best sense as any +of the fine music I have heard. Tony sings with imagination: he sees, +<i>lives</i> what he is singing. Between this sort of song and most, +there is much the same difference as between going abroad, and reading +a book of travels; or between singing folk-songs with the folk and +twittering bowdlerised versions in a drawing-room. However imperfect +technically, Tony's songs are an expression of the life he lives, +rather than an excursion into the realms of art—into the expression of +other kinds of life—with temporarily stimulated and projected +imagination. His art is perpetual creation, not repetition of a thing +created once and for all. The art that is <i>lived</i>, howsoever +imperfect, has an advantage over the most finished art that is merely +repeated. Next after the music of, as one might say, superhuman +creative force—like Bach's and Beethoven's—comes this kind, of +Tony's. +</p> + +<p> +Cultured people talk about the artistic tastes of the poor, would have +them read—well, they don't quite know what—something 'good,' +something namely that appeals to the cultured. It has always been my +experience in much lending of books, that the poor will read the +literature of life's fundamental daily realities quickly enough, once +they know of its existence. What they will not read, what in the +struggle for existence they cannot waste time over, is the literature +of the <i>etceteras</i> of life, the decorations, the vapourings. Sane +minds, like healthy bodies, crave strong meats, and the strong meats of +literature are usually the worst cooked. I am inclined to think that +the taste of the poor, the uneducated, is on the right lines, though +undeveloped, whilst the taste of the educated consists of beautifully +developed wrongness, an exquisite secession from reality. As Nietzsche +pointed out, degenerates love narcotics; something to make them forget +life, not face it. Their meats must be strange and peptonized. +Therefore they hate, they are afraid of, the greatest things in +life—the commonplace. Much culture has debilitated them. Rank life +would kill them—or save them. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +VI +</p> + + +<p class="right"> +<span class="sc">Salisbury</span>,<br> +<i>October</i>. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +1 +</p> + +<p> +It is just at dawn that the coming day declares itself most plainly; +not earlier, not later. This morning at peep o' day the wind was NNW., +the air delicate and peaceful. A band of dirty red water washed in +fantastic outline along the cliffs. The sea, with its calm great +rollers, bore upon it only the rags of last night's fury; as if it had +been less a part of the storm than a thing buffeted by the storm, and +now glad to sink into tranquillity. The air was scented with land +smells. Shafts of the dawn's sunlight beamed across it. Three punts put +off to find out if the lobster-pots had been washed away; the sea had +its little boats upon it again. But the sky, to the SW., was looking +very wild. The wind was SW. in the offing. +</p> + +<p> +While we were at breakfast a southerly squall burst open the kitchen +door. Mrs Widger got up to see what child it was. A screaming sea-gull +mocked her. +</p> + +<p> +The storm came. The trees by the railway bowed and tossed. Rain +spattered against the carriage windows. Dead leaves scurried by. I +wanted to get out, to go back. I wanted to know whether Tony was at +sea. Here, at Salisbury they are already talking about the 'great +storm'; some of the beautiful elms are down. What must the storm have +been at Seacombe! +</p> + +<p> +Curiously, I felt, the first time for years, as if I were leaving home +for boarding school—the warmth behind, the chill in front. I smelt +again the rank soft-soap in the great bare schoolrooms. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +2 +</p> + +<p> +A postcard from Tony— +</p> +<div class="blockquote"> +<p> +"quite please to get your letter this morning it as been rough ever +since you left Seacombe it was a gale the night you went Back the sea +was all in over and knocking the boats about the road. I haven been out +sea sinsce it is still rough hear now it is blowing a gale of wind I +expect we shall get some witing and herring in the bay when the weather +get fine the sea hear is like the cliff now red. Us aven catched nort +nobody cant go to sea. +</p> + +<p class="sig"> +"<span class="sc">Tony</span>. +</p> + +<p> +"I will write a letter soon. +</p> + +<p> +"P.S. Tony just waked up. George is coming home, Tony mazed with +excitement and wishes you was here. +</p> + +<p class="sig"> +"<span class="sc">Mam</span> W." +</p> +</div> +<p> +So do I! +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +3 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>TONY OFF TO SEA</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The evening before I left Seacombe, Tony was telling us how upset and +miserable he was, how he cried, when his two elder brothers left home +to join the Navy. Also he told us what I knew nothing of before—his +own one attempt to go to sea aboard a merchantman. When he was at +Cloade's he looked on fishing as a refuge from groceries, and when he +had given up groceries for fishing, he looked on a ship's fo'c'stle as +a refuge from that. Fishing was very bad one summer. He and Dick Yeo +agreed to run away together: +</p> + +<p> +"Us was doin' nort noway wi' the fishing—nort 't all. Father, Granfer +that is, wer away to his drill wi' the Royal Naval Reserves. So Dick +Yeo an' me agreed to go off together. Where he went, I was to go tu, +an' where I went, he was to come. He had two pounds put away, in gold. +I only had half a crown, an' cuden't see me way to get no more nuther. +'Casn' thee ask thy maid for some?' Dick said. I was ashamed, like, but +I did. +</p> + +<p> +"'What's thee want it for?" her asked. +</p> + +<p> +"'Tisn' nothing doing down here,' I says, 'an' I wants to go to sea.' +</p> + +<p> +"'I an't got no money,' the maid says. +</p> + +<p> +"'Casn' thee get nort?' I asks, having begun, you see. I'd been goin' +with her for nigh on two years. +</p> + +<p> +"Her cried bitter at the thought o' me going, but her did get seven +shillin's from a fellow servant. I told me mother—her cried tu'—an' +off us started, going by train to Bristol and stopping the night at the +Sailor's Rest. 'Twasn't bad, you know. They Restis be gude things. +Dick, he woke in the morning wi' a swelled faace, but I didn' feel +nort. +</p> + +<p> +"Dick Yeo paid both our boat fares from Bristol to Cardiff. The +steward—what us urned against aboard ship—recommended us to a lodging +house in Adelaide Street, an' he giv'd me a note for a man at the Board +o' Trade, sayin' we was Demshire fishin' chaps an' gude seamen. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, us went to the lodging house an' gave in our bags an' took a +room wi' fude [food] for two an' six a day—each, mind yu. Then us +looked into a big underground room wer there was a lot o' foreigners +gathered round a fire an' us didn' much like the looks o' that. So us +went straight down to the docks an' tried to ship together on several +sailing ships an' steamers. Some on 'em would on'y take me, an' some +were down to sail at a future date, like, what our money wouldn't last +out tu. <i>I</i> cude ha' got a ship, 'cause I had me Naval Reserve +ticket, but nobody cuden't du wi' both on us—an' where one went +t'other was to go tu, by agreement. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>AT THE BOARD O' TRADE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Us went back to the lodging house, into a sort o' kitchen in a cellar, +where there was a 'Merican wi' a long white beard cooking, an' men +drunk spewing, an' men lying about asleep like logs. The 'Merican, his +beard looking so red as hell in the firelight, wer stirring some kind +o' stew. Yu shade ha' see'd the faaces what the glow o' they coals +shined on! An' the fude.... An' the tables an' plates.... I've a-gone +short many a time in my day, but I'd never ha' touched muck like they +offered to gie us there. Dick an' me crept up the staircase to bed wi' +empty bellies thic night. +</p> + +<p> +"Soon a'ter we was to bed, Dick says to me: 'Can 'ee feel ort yer +Tony?' +</p> + +<p> +"'No,' I says, an' whatever 'twas, I didn' feel ort o'it. But I see'd +'em crawling so thick as sea-lice on the wall in a southerly gale, an' +I tell 'ee, 'twas they things what took the heart out o' me more'n ort +else, aye! more'n the food an' being away from home. Us cuden turn out, +'cause the landlord had our bags an' us hadn' got no money to get 'em +back wi', nor nowhere else at all to go tu. +</p> + +<p> +"Next morning, us went straight down to the docks again. Cuden' eat no +breakfast what they give'd us. Didn' know what to du. I only had +tuppence left, which wuden' ha' taken me home again, not if I'd been +willing to give up and go. Come to the last, us was forced to break our +agreement. I signed on as able seaman—<i>able</i> seaman 'cause I was +a fishing chap an' had me Royal Naval Reserve ticket—aboard the +<i>Brooklands</i>, bound for Bombay. Penny o' me tuppence, I spent +writing home to tell mother. I cuden' stay aboard the ship (an' get +summut to eat) 'cause I had my gear to get an' a ship to find for +Dick—an' we still had hopes, like, o' getting a ship together. +Howsbe-ever, us cuden't, nohow. The writer aboard the <i>Brooklands</i> +wuden't advance me no wages to get any gear. He told me the landlord to +the lodging house wude, him what had our bags a'ready. +</p> + +<p> +"Then I thought o' the steward's note to the Board o' Trade officer, +an' us inquired our way to the Board o' Trade, where ther was a gert +crowd outside. 'Twas by that us know'd the place. A man told us as the +officer what the note was directed tu, wude appear outside the door an' +call. Sure 'nuff, he did—wi' gold buttons on his coat—an' called out: +'Six A.B.'s for the <i>Asia</i>'! +</p> + +<p> +"'Who be that?' I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"'That's he,' the man said. 'He'll come out again by'm-bye.' +</p> + +<p> +"Us worked our way to the front—getting cussed horrible for our +pains—an' when Mr Gold-Buttons 'peared again, I give'd him the +steward's note. He luked at it—an' us. He cude offer me something an' +said as he'd du his best for me, but he cuden' hold out no promise for +Dick because, see, he hadn' got no Naval Reserve ticket. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn">"<i>WER DICK GOES, I GOES</i>"</span> +</p> + +<p> +"'Wher Dick goes, I goes,' I says, like that. With which the Board o' +Trade officer leaves us waiting there. +</p> + +<p> +"After an hour or so, he com'd out an' called, as if he hadn' ha' +know'd us: 'Anthony Widger an' Richard Yeo! Richard Yeo an' Anthony +Widger o' Seacombe!' +</p> + +<p> +"'Yer we be, sir,' shouts I, thinking we was fixed up. +</p> + +<p> +"'Be yu Anthony Widger an' Richard Yeo? Come in.' +</p> + +<p> +"Dick, he went in behind the officer, an' me behind Dick. 'Twer a +darkish passage, but as the door closed I luked, an' there, hidden +behind the door, sort o' flattened against the wall, who did I see but +Dick's mother; her'd come all that way by herself. I called to Dick. +</p> + +<p> +"'What the bloody hell be doin' here?' said Dick swearing awful. +</p> + +<p> +"'Don't thee swear at thy mother, Dick,' I says. +</p> + +<p> +"'Dick!' her says, 'Dick, come home again. Your father's breakin' his +heart.' +</p> + +<p> +"'Go to b——ry!' says Dick, swearing worse'n ever, 'cause <i>he</i> +was wanting in his heart to be home again, yu see. +</p> + +<p> +"I burst out crying, then and there, wi' seeing Dick's mother cry, an' +all o'it what we'd been drough. The Board o' Trade officer repeated as +he'd help me an' no doubt find me a ship, but Dick—his mother was +come'd for he. +</p> + +<p> +"'Wer Dick goes, I goes,' says I. +</p> + +<p> +"Then Dick's mother, her says: 'Will 'ee come home then, Tony?' +</p> + +<p> +"'Wer Dick goes, I goes,' I says again. 'Twas fixed in me head, like. +</p> + +<p> +"'Well,' her says, 'if Dick comes home, will yu come too?' +</p> + +<p> +"I told her: 'I've a-signed on aboard the <i>Brooklands</i>, an' I'll +hae to tramp it 'cause I an't got no money.' +</p> + +<p> +"'Well, if I pays <i>your</i> fare too?' +</p> + +<p> +"'Wer Dick goes, I'll go!' I says. +</p> + +<p> +"So her got over Dick a bit, an' the Board o' Trade man told us to come +again, saying as he'd do anything for me, but Dick's mother was come'd +for he. An' Mrs Yeo asked us to go wi' her to a restaurant.... That +turned me more'n ort else 'cause us hadn' eaten the stuff to the +lodging house an' us <i>was</i> hungry. An' her telegraphed home to +Dick's father for a trap to meet us to Totnes, for 'twas a Saturday an' +there wern't no trains no nearer home. +</p> + +<p> +"Us went to the station, Dick swearing awful, an' in the end us come'd +to Totnes to find the trap. +</p> + +<p> +"The trap was there at the inn, sure 'nuff, an' the ostler was waiting +up, but the man what come'd wi' the trap was disappeared. We on'y found +'en at two in the morning, sleeping dead drunk in the manger, an' then +he an' the ostler began fighting on account o' the ostler casting out a +slur 'cause Dick's mother didn' gie him no more than a shilling. A +policeman come an' cleared us out o' it! +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>CARRIAGE PEOPLE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Two or dree mile out o' Totnes the horse stops dead an' begins to go +back'ards. Us coaxed 'en, like, an' still he kept on stopping an' +walking back'ards. Dick an' me got out to walk to the halfway inn. +There the landlord wuden' come down for us. But he did when the trap +come'd up—us was carriage people than, yu see. We had drinks round, +an' us give'd flour an' water to the horse to make 'en go. But us hadn' +gone far when he stopped an' began to go back'ards again. Dick, he +started swearing. 'Let's walk on,' I says, to get 'en out o'it; an' so +us did for a mile or so. 'Twas dark, wi' a mizzling rain—an' +quiet—an' the trees like shadows. A proper logie night 'twas. Wude 'ee +believe me when I says I cude smell the flowers I cuden' see? Us was +glad when a tramp caught up wi' us. +</p> + +<p> +"'Have 'ee see'd ort o' a horse an' trap wi' two persons in 'en?' I +askis. +</p> + +<p> +"'Two mile back,' he says. +</p> + +<p> +"'Us lef 'en only a mile back,' Dick says. +</p> + +<p> +"'He've a-gone a mile back'ards then!' says I. +</p> + +<p> +"And with the same, Dick laughs out loud, an' I laughs, an' the tramp, +he laughs.... 'Twas the first laugh us had since us left Seacombe, an' +I reckon it did us gude. Us went on better a'ter that. I covered the +tramp up wi' hay in a hay loft, advising of him not to smoke. I could +ha' slept tu; I wer heavy for a gude bed; but I saw lights in the +farmhouse winder, an' us wer so near home again. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, we crept into Seacombe by the back (people was jest astir, +Sunday morning) going each our way from the churchyard, an' I listened +outside mother's door. Father was home again, an' they was to +breakfast. Her'd had my letter telling them as I'd a-shipped for +Bombay. +</p> + +<p> +"'They'll Bumbay the beggar!' father was saying, only 'twasn't 'beggar' +as he did say. +</p> + +<p> +"Then my sister Mary, cried out: 'Here's Tony!' +</p> + +<p> +"'I know'd <i>he'd</i> never go to Bumbay!' outs father so quick as +ever. +</p> + +<p> +"But they was so pleased as Punch to see Tony back, cas I ude see, if +they'd ha' cared to say so. I don' know 'xactly why I went off to +sea—summut inside driving of me—'twasn't only 'cause there wern't +nothing doin'—but I an't never been no more. An' thic Mam Widger +there'd hae summut to say about it now. Eh, Annie?" +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +4 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE SEA'S STAMP</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +It is an Englishman's privilege to grumble, and a sailorman's duty; yet +one thing always strikes me in talking to seafaring men, namely how +indelible the sea's stamp is; how indissolubly they are bound to the +sea—with sunken bonds like those which unite an old married +couple,—and also what outbursts of savage hatred they have against it. +Tony says that if he could earn fifteen shillings a week regularly on +land, he would give up the sea altogether. I very much doubt it. The +sea has him fast. He says further that nobody would go to sea unless he +were caught young and foolish, and that few would stay there if they +could get away. There are, among the older fishermen of Seacombe, some +who have worked well, and could still work, but prefer to stay ashore +and starve. Tony holds them excused. "Aye!" he says, "they've a-worked +hard in their day, an' they knows they ain't no for'arder. An' now +they'm weary o' it all, an' don't care; an' that's how I'll be some +day, if I lives—weary o'it, an' just where I was!" +</p> + +<p> +But the sea has her followers, and will continue to have them, because +seafaring is the occupation in which health, strength and courage have +their greatest value; in which being a man most nearly suffices a man. +It is remarkable that Baudelaire, decadent Frenchman, apostle of the +artificial, who was violently home-sick when he went on a voyage, +should have expressed the relation of man and the sea—their enmity and +love—more subtly than any English poet. +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Homme libre, toujours tu chériras la mer;</p> +<p>La mer et ton miroir; tu contemples ton âme</p> +<p>Dans le déroulement infini de sa lame,</p> +<p>Et ton esprit n'est pas un gouffre moins amer.</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Tu te plais à plonger au sein de ton image;</p> +<p>Tu l'embrasses des yeux et des bras, et ton cœur</p> +<p>Se distrait quelquefois de sa propre rumeur</p> +<p>Au bruit de cette plainte indomptable et sauvage.</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Vous êtes tous les deux ténébreux et discrets:</p> +<p>Homme, nul n'a sondé le fond de tes abîmes,</p> +<p>O mer, nul ne connaît tes richesses intimes,</p> +<p>Tant vous êtes jaloux de garder vos secrets!</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Et cependant voilà des siècles innombrables</p> +<p>Que vous vous combattez sans pitié ni remord,</p> +<p>Tellement vous aimez le carnage et la mort,</p> +<p>O lutteurs éternels, ô frères implacables!</p></div></div> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>SEA-LARGENESS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The sea is never mean. Strife and brotherhood with it give a largeness +to men which, like all deep qualities of the spirit, can be neither +specified nor defined; only felt, and seen in the outcome. The Seacombe +fishermen are more or less amphibious; ocean-going seamen look down on +them. They are petty in some small things, notably in jealousy lest one +man do more work, or make more money, than another: to say a man is +doing well is to throw out a slur against him. Nevertheless in the +larger, the essential things of life, their sea-largeness nearly always +shows itself. They are wonderfully charitable, not merely with money. +They carp at one another, but let a man make a mess of things, and he +is gently treated. I have never heard Tony admit that any man—even one +who had robbed him—had not his very good points. Is a man a +ne'er-do-well, a drunkard, an idler? "Ah," they say, "his father rose +he up like a gen'leman, an' that's what comes o'it." In their dealings, +they curiously combine generosity and +close-fistedness—close-fistedness in earning, and generosity in +spending and lending. A beachcomber, for simply laying a hand to a +rope, receives a pint of beer, or the price of it, and next moment the +fisherman who paid the money may be seen getting wet through and +spoiling his clothes in order to drag a farthing's worth of jetsam from +the surf. Tony fails to understand how a gen'leman can possibly haggle +over the hire of a boat. When he goes away himself, he pays what is +asked; regrets it afterwards, if at all; and comes home when his money +is done. "If a gen'leman," he says, "can't afford to pay the rate, what +du 'ee come on the beach to hire a boat for—an' try to beat a fellow +down? I reckon 'tis only a <i>sort o' gen'leman</i> as does that!" +</p> + +<p> +Like most seafarers, the fishermen are fatalistic. "What's goin' to be, +will be, an' that's the way o'it." But they are not thoroughgoing +fatalists, inasmuch as disappointment quickly turns to resentment +against something handy to blame. If, for example, we catch no fish, +Tony will blame the tide, the hour, the weather, the boat, the sail, +the leads, the line, the hooks, the bait, the fish, his mate—anything +rather than accept the one fact that, for reasons unknown, the fish are +off the bite. A thoroughgoing fatalist would blame, if he did not +acquiesce in, fate itself or his luck. +</p> + +<p> +Tony is a black pessimist as regards the present and to-morrow; +convinced that things are not, and cannot be, what they were; but as +regards the further future, the day after to-morrow, he is a resolute +optimist. "Never mind how bad things du look, summut or other'll sure +to turn up. It always du. I've a-proved it. I've a-see'd it scores o' +times." He can earn money by drifting for mackerel and herring, hooking +mackerel, seining for mackerel, sprats, flat-fish, mullet and bass, +bottom-line fishing for whiting, conger or pout, lobster and crab +potting, and prawning; by belonging to the Royal Naval Reserve; by +boat-hiring; by carpet-beating and cleaning up. I have even seen him +dragging a wheel chair. His boats and gear represent, I suppose, a +capital of near a hundred pounds. It would be hard if he earned +nothing. Yet he is certain that his earnings, year in and year out, +scarcely average fifteen shillings a week. "Yu wears yourself out wi' +it an' never gets much for'arder." The money, moreover, comes in +seasons and lump-sums; ten pounds for a catch perhaps, then nothing for +weeks. Mrs Widger must be, and is, a good hand at household management +and at putting money by. I doubt if Tony ever knows how much, or how +little, gold she has, stored away upstairs. Probably it is as well. He +is a generous man with money. He 'slats it about' when he has it. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>OPEN BOATS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +It has to be realised that these fishermen exercise very great skill +and alertness. To sail a small open boat in all weathers requires a +quicker hand and judgment than to navigate a seagoing ship. Seacombe +possesses no harbour, and therefore Seacombe men can use no really +seaworthy craft. "'Tis all very well," Tony says, "for people to buzz +about the North Sea men an' knit 'em all sorts o' woollen gear. They +North Sea men an' the Cornishmen wi' their big, decked harbour boats, +they <i>have</i> got summut under their feet—somewhere they can get in +under, out the way o'it. They <i>can</i> make themselves comfor'able, +an ride out a storm. But if it comes on to blow when we'm to sea in our +little open craft, we got to hard up an' get home along—if us can. For +the likes o' us, 'tis touch an' go wi' the sea!" +</p> + +<p> +Tony knows. At places like Seacombe every boat, returning from sea, +must run ashore and be hauled up the beach and even, in rough weather, +over the sea-wall. The herring and mackerel drifters, which may venture +twenty miles into the open sea, cannot be more than twenty-five feet in +length else they would prove unwieldy ashore. To avoid their heeling +over and filling in the surf, they must be built shallow, with next to +no keel. They have therefore but small hold on the water; they do not +sail close to the wind, and beating home against it is a long wearisome +job. Again, because the gear for night work in small craft must be as +simple as possible, such boats usually carry only a mizzen and a +dipping lug—the latter a large, very picturesque, but unhandy, sail +which has to be lowered or 'dipped' every time the boat tacks. Neither +comfort nor safety is provided by the three feet or so of decking, the +'cuddy' or 'cutty,' in the bows. To sleep there with one's head +underneath, is to have one's feet outside, and <i>vice versa</i>. In +rough broken seas the open beach drifter must be handled skilfully +indeed, if she is not to fill and sink. +</p> + +<p> +I have watched one of them running home in a storm. The wind was +blowing a gale; the sea running high and broken. One error in steering, +one grip of the great white sea-horses, meant inevitable wreck. Every +moment or two the coastguard, who was near me with a telescope to his +eye, exclaimed, "She's down!" But no. She dodged the combers like a +hare before greyhounds, now steering east, now west, on the whole +towards home. It was with half her rudder gone that she ran ashore +after a splendid exhibition of skill and nerve, many times more +exciting than the manœuvres of a yacht race. Were there not many +such feats of seamanship among fishermen, there would be more widows +and orphans. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>BOATS SHEERING</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Those are the craft, those the sort of men—two usually to a boat—that +put to sea an hour or two before sunset, ride at the nets through the +night, and return towards or after dawn. Anything but a moderate breeze +renders drifting impossible. In a calm, the two men are bound to row, +for hours perhaps, with heavy 16-20 ft. sweeps. Moreover, if the sea +makes, or a ground swell rises, the least mistake in beaching a boat +will cause it to sheer round, capsize, and wash about in the breakers +with the crew most probably beneath it. Yarns are told of arms and legs +appearing, of a horrible tortured face appearing, while the upturned +boat washed about in the undertow, and those ashore were powerless to +help. There is nothing the fishermen dread so much. One of them owns to +leaving the beach when he has seen a boat running in on a very rough +sea, so that he might not endure witnessing what he could not +prevent.—He peeped however. +</p> + +<p> +These risks need considering, not in order to exaggerate the dangers of +drifting in open beach boats—in point of fact, accidents seldom do +happen,—but to show what skill is habitually exercised, what a touch +and go with the sea it is. +</p> + +<p> +Sundown is the time for shooting nets. Eight to fourteen are carried +for mackerel, six to ten for herrings—the scantier the fish, the +greater the number of nets. At Seacombe they are commonly forty fathoms +in length along the headrope which connects them all, and five fathoms +deep. Stretching far away from the boat, as it drifts up and down +Channel with the tides, is a line, perhaps a thousand yards long, of +cork buoys. From these hang the lanyards<a href="#note16" name="noteref16"><sup>16</sup></a> which support the headrope, +from the headrope hang perpendicularly the nets themselves. Judgment is +needed in shooting a fleet of nets. They may get foul of the bottom or +of another boat's fleet. When, on account of careless shooting or +tricks of the tide, the nets of several boats become entangled, there +is great confusion, and the cursing is loud. +</p> + +<p> +Nets shot, the fishermen make fast the road for'ard; sup, smoke, sing, +creep under the cutty, and sleep with one eye open. +</p> + +<p> +Sometimes they are too wet to sleep; often in the winter it is too +cold. +</p> + +<p> +Afterwards, the laborious hauling in—one man at the headrope and the +other at the foot. Contrary to a very general impression, the fish are +not enclosed within the net, as in seining or in pictures of the +miraculous draught of fishes. They prod their snouts into the meshes, +and are caught by the gills. There may not be a score in a whole fleet +of nets, or they may come up like a glittering mat, beyond the strength +of two men to lift over the gunwale. Twenty-five thousand herring is +about the burthen of an open beach drifter. Are there more, nets must +be given away at sea, or buoyed up and left—or cut, broken, lost. +Small catches are picked out of the nets as they are hauled in, large +catches ashore. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>FISHERMEN FLEECED</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +It is ashore that the fisherman comes off worst of all. Neither +educated nor commercialized, he is fleeced by the buyers. And if he +himself dispatches his haul to London.... Dick Yeo once went up to +Billingsgate and saw his own fish sold for about ten pounds. On his +return to Seacombe, he received three pounds odd, and a letter from the +salesman to say that there had been a sudden glut in the market. +Fishermen boat-owners have an independence of character which makes it +difficult for them to combine together effectively, as wage-servers do. +They act too faithfully on the adage that a bird in the hand is worth +two in the bush, and ten shillings on the beach a sovereign at +Billingsgate. So 'tis, when +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +There's little to earn and many to keep, +</p> + +<p> +and no floating capital at a man's disposal. +</p> + +<p> +In recent years, owing to bad prices and seasons and general lack of +encouragement, or even of fair opportunity, the number of sea-going +drifters at Seacombe has decreased by two-thirds. Much the same has +happened at other small fishing places along the coast. This +decline—so complacently acquiesced in by the powers that be—is of +national importance; for the little fisheries are the breeding ground +of the Navy. Nowadays fishermen put their sons to work on land. +"'Tain't wuth it," they say, "haulin' yer guts out night an' day, an' +gettin' no forrarder at the end o'it." Luckily for England the sea's +grip is a firm one, and many of the sons return to it. +</p> + +<p> +When one hears Luscombe talk about the maddening trouble he has had in +teaching plough-tail or urban recruits to knot and splice a rope, or +watches, as I have, a couple of blue-jackets drive ashore in a small +boat because they couldn't hoist sail, then one comprehends better the +importance of the fisher-families whose work is made up of endurance, +exposure, nerve and skill; who play touch and go with the sea; and who +in the slack seasons have—unlike the ordinary workman—only too much +time to think for themselves. They are the backbone of the Navy. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +VII +</p> + + +<p class="right"> +<span class="sc">Seacombe</span>,<br> +<i>November</i>. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +1 +</p> + +<p> +Whilst the train was drawing up at the platform, I noticed the people +moving and looking downwards as if dogs were running wild amongst them. +Then I saw two whitish heads bobbing about in the crowd. It was Jimmy +and another boy come to meet me. +</p> + +<p> +We gave the luggage to the busman, and walked on down. +</p> + +<p> +"Tommy's gone tu Plymouth." +</p> + +<p> +"What for?" +</p> + +<p> +"They'm going to cut his eyes out an' gie 'en spectacles." +</p> + +<p> +"When did he go?" +</p> + +<p> +A rather sulky silence.... +</p> + +<p> +Then: "Us thought 'ee was going to ride down. Dad said as yu'd be sure +tu." +</p> + +<p> +"'Tisn't far to walk, Jimmy...." +</p> + +<p> +"Us be tired." +</p> + +<p> +Alack! I had done the wrong thing. Their little festivity, that was to +have made them the envy of 'all they boys tu beach,' had fallen flat. +They had expected to ride down 'like li'l gentry-boys.' However, we +bought oranges, and then I was taken to see yesterday's fire, and was +told how Tony had rushed into the blazing house to rescue a carpet 'an' +didn' get nort for it.' +</p> + +<p> +Tony himself came downstairs from putting away an hour in bed. "I'd ha' +come up to meet 'ee," he said sleepily, "if anybody'd a reminded me +o'it. Us an't done nort to the fishing since you went away." +</p> + +<p> +"An' yu an't chopped up to-morrow morning's wude nuther!" added Mrs +Widger. +</p> + +<p> +Grannie Pinn came in at tea-time. We invited her to sit down and have a +cup. "Do 'ee think I an't got nothing to eat at home?" she asked. +"Well, I have, then!—Ay," she continued, bobbing her head +sententiously, "yu got a mark in Seacombe, else yu wuden't be down yer +again so sune. That's what 'tis—a mark! I knows, sure nuff. Come on! +who be it now? What's her like, eh?" +</p> + +<p> +She cannot understand how any young unmarried man can be without his +sweetheart. Everybody according to her, must have a mark, or be in +search of one. I told her with the brutality which delights her factual +old mind, that if she herself had been a little less antique and +poverty-stricken.... +</p> + +<p> +"There! if I don't come round and box yer yers. Yu'm al'ays ready wi' +yer chake." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A MARK</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Then I offered her five <i>per cent.</i> of the lady's fortune, if she +would find me a mark with unsettled money. Though she laughed it off, +she was not a little scandalized by my levity. The Tough Old Stick has +not outlived her memory of romance. Indeed, I think she holds to it all +the tighter for her hardheadedness in every-day affairs. +</p> + +<p> +Midway through tea, Straighty crept into the kitchen. "What do +<i>yu</i> want?" shouted Grannie Pinn. "Bain't there enough kids yer +now?" Straighty stood in the centre of the kitchen, sucking three +fingers and looking shyly at me from beneath her tousled tow-coloured +hair. +</p> + +<p> +"You've not forgotten me, Straighty?" I asked. "You're not frightened +of me, are you?" +</p> + +<p> +"Go an' speak to 'en proper," commanded Grannie Pinn. "Wer's yer +manners, Dora?" +</p> + +<p> +"<i>Yu</i> didn' speak to me proper, Grannie Pinn! Wer's yours?" +</p> + +<p> +"Aw, my dear soul! Now du 'ee shut up wi' yer chake!" +</p> + +<p> +Straighty remained sucking her fingers in the middle of the kitchen. +She seemed about to cry. Quite suddenly, her eyes brightened. She +glided over to me, put her wet fingers round my neck ("Dora!" from Mrs +Widger), and gave me a big kiss on the chin. Then she told me all about +everything, sitting with her head on my shoulder in the old courting +chair. +</p> + +<p> +A tiny little episode, I grant; but very sweet. +</p> + +<p> +"That's your mark?" Grannie Pinn shouted. "You'll hae tu wait for she!" +</p> + +<p> +Straighty is established as my mark, and takes her duties, as she has +learnt to conceive them, with amusing seriousness. She will not let me +go out through the Square without being told where I am off to, nor let +me return in house until I tell her where I have been. At the beginning +of every meal we hear her creeping up the passage; see her yellow hair +against the door-post. By the end of the meal she has summoned up +courage to claim a kiss. "Now be off tu your mother!" says Mrs Widger. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +2 +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger has let the back bedroom to a young married couple possessed +of a saucer-eyed baby that cries lustily whenever its mother is out of +its sight. How they succeed in living, sleeping, baby-tending and doing +their minor cookery in the one pokey little room, already half filled +by the bedstead, is difficult to understand. They do it. We see little +of them, except just when we had rather see nothing at all. +</p> + +<p> +For dinner and the subsequent cup o' tay, Mam Widger allows one hour. +But usually, before even the pudding is out of the oven, first one of +us, then another, glances round to make sure that the kettle is well on +the fire. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MRS PERKINS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Nowadays, however, when the kettle is beginning to sing, Mrs Perkins, +the baby in her arms, comes downstairs and proceeds to cook for her +husband a couple of small chops or a mess of meat-shreds and bubble and +squeak. She stirs and chatters; she holds forth on the baby's beauty +and goodness, its health, its father's love of it—and, in short, she +talks to us as if we were delighted to see her and her baby. Tony's +good manners triumph comically over his desire to get his cup o' tay +and put away an hour up over. (He likes to take every chance of making +up for wakeful nights at sea.) We all wish she would go quickly. +Meanwhile, we feign an interest in what blousy, skirt-gaping, +slop-slippered, enthusiastic maternity has to say. +</p> + +<p> +And when she does go, it is with a most joyful haste that we move the +kettle to the very hottest part of the fire. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +3 +</p> + +<p> +The family hubbub over Tommy's stay in the Plymouth Eye Infirmary has +hardly died down yet. Recognizing with uncommon good sense that his +double squint would bar him from the Navy or Army (he shows an +inclination towards the latter), Mrs Widger took him to Plymouth; and +on hearing that an operation would cure him, she did not hesitate, did +not bring him home to think about it; she left him there. Then.... What +a buzz! The child is to return very thin. Mrs Widger's cousin declares +loudly that she would rather lead her boy about blind (he squints +excessively) than let him go to one o' they places. Tony says, "Aye! +they may feed 'en on food of a better quality like, after the rate, but +he won't get done like he is at home." Several times daily he wants to +know how long they will keep Tommy there, and when Mrs Widger replies, +six weeks, he asks in a woe-begone voice: "Do 'ee think 'er'll know his +dad when 'er comes home again?" +</p> + +<p> +All of which is easy to laugh at. +</p> + +<p> +No doubt hospitals are a godsend to the poor, immediately if not +ultimately. At the same time, it cannot be said that the prejudice +against them is wholly unreasonable. Poor people declare that they are +starved in hospital, and it is, in fact, now recognized in dietetics +that comparatively innutritious food, eaten with gusto, is better +assimilated than the most scientifically chosen but unpalatable +nutriment. A man, a poor man especially, can be half starved or at all +events much thinned, on good food, who would do well on the habitual +coarse fare that he enjoys. His life is a long adventure in a land +where every other turning leads to starvation, but his adventurousness +seldom extends to new sorts of food. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>HOSPITALS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +No one is so depressed by strange surroundings as the average poor man +or woman. (Children get on much better.) Very likely he has never been +alone, has never slept away from some relative or friend, the whole of +his life. The unfamiliarity and precise routine of hospitals, the faces +and ways all strange, are capable not only of greatly intensifying a +man's sufferings, but even of retarding his recovery. +</p> + +<p> +Hospitals must necessarily be governed by two main conditions:—(1) The +need of doing the greatest good to the greatest number; (2) The +advancement of medical science and experience. Under (1) the +overpressure on medical skill and time is bound to diminish tact and +sympathy. Under (2) the serious or interesting cases are apt—as +everyone who has mixed with hospital staffs knows very well—to receive +attention not disproportionate to the nature of the malady, but +disproportionate to the bodily, and particularly to the mental, +suffering. The poor man can appreciate sympathy better than skill. He +may not know how ill he is, but he knows how much he suffers. He is +quick to detect and to resent preferential treatment. From the point of +view of the independent poor, hospitals are far from what they might +be. They are last straws for drowning men, useful sometimes, but best +avoided.<a href="#note17" name="noteref17"><sup>17</sup></a> +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>JACKS THE RIPPER</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Jacks is a very energetic young country surgeon. He is keen on his work +and will procure admission to the hospital for any operative case. But +he finds it by no means easy to get his patients there; for he is so +keen on his work that he treats their feelings carelessly; hustles them +through an operation; pooh-poohs their fear of anaesthetics and the +knife. Jacks is well disliked by the poor. He has to live, and +therefore he has to cultivate a professional manner and to dance +attendance on wealthy hypochrondriacal patients whom otherwise he would +probably send to the devil. The poor people have told him to his face +that he runs after the rich and cuts about the poor; and they have +nicknamed him <i>Jacks the Ripper</i>. +</p> + +<p> +Tony would have to be very far gone before he would willingly go into a +hospital. Just now, between the mackerel and herring seasons, he is fat +and sleepy, very sleek for him. Rheumatic fever in boyhood and +neglected colds have left him rather deaf, and subject to noises in the +head and miscellaneous bodily pains. He is 'a worriter' by nature. +"When I gets bothered," he says, "I often feels as if summut be busted +in me head." As the herring season comes round, so will Tony 'hae the +complaints again,' and few will pity a man who always looks so well. A +few years back, Mrs Widger procured for his deafness some quack +treatment—which did do him good;—but he himself had little faith in +it, and did not persevere. Like the mothers who rejoice in delicate +children rather than feed them properly and send them early to bed, +Tony prefers to think his ailments constitutional, a possession of his, +a curse of fate, which flatters him, so to speak, by singling him out +for its attentions. In a couple of years' time, when he comes out of +the Royal Naval Reserve, he will have the option of accepting £50 down +at once, or of waiting till he is sixty for a pension of four shillings +a week. Mrs Widger understands perfectly that unless he wants to buy +boats and gear—unless, in other words, he can make the £50 +productive—he had much better wait for the pension and be sure of a +roof over his head when he is past work. Tony, however, will probably +take the lump sum. He fears he may die and get nothing at all. He does +not <i>feel</i> that he will never see sixty, but he is of opinion that +he will not, and sixty to a man of his temperament is such a long way +hence. He thinks as little as possible of old age. "Aye!" he +says—almost chants, so moved is he,—"the likes o' us slaves an' +slaves all our life, an' us never gets no for'arder. Like as us be when +we'm young, so us'll be at the end o'it all. Come the time when yu'm +past work, an' yu be done an' wearied out, then all yer slavin's gone +for nort. Tis true what I says. I dunno what to think—but 'tis the way +o'it. 'Tain't right like. 'Tain't right!" +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +4 +</p> + +<p> +"Go shrimping wi' the setting-nets t'night, I reckon," said Uncle Jake. +"Tide be low 'tween twelve and one o'clock. Jest vitty, that." +</p> + +<p> +It was one of those evenings, wind WSW., when the sea and sky look +stormier than they are, or will be. Uncle Jake stood on the very edge +of the sea wall, his hands in his pockets, his torn jumper askew, and +his old cap cocked over one ear. From time to time he turned half round +to deride a dressy visitor, or for warmth's sake twisted his body about +within his clothing, or shrugged his shoulders humorously with a, "'Tis +a turn-out o'it!" The seine net had just been shot from the beach for +less than a sovereign's worth of fish—to be divided, one third for the +owner of the net and the remainder among the seven men who had lent a +hand. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>PRAWNING</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Coo'h!" Uncle Jake exclaimed. "<i>'Tis</i> a crib here! Nort 't all +doing. Not like 't used tu be. I mind when yu cude haul in a seine so +full as.... Might pick up a shilling or tu t'night shrimping, if they +damn visitors an' bloody tradesmen an't been an' turned the whole o' +Broken Rocks up an' down. <i>I</i> tells 'em o'it!" +</p> + +<p> +"Shrimps or prawns, d'you mean?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, prawns! Us calls it shrimping hereabout. You knows that. There's +prawns there if yu knows where to look, but not like 't used to be. +On'y they fules don' know where to look. An' they don' see Jake at it, +an' I never tells 'em what I gets nor what I sells at; an' so they says +I don' never du nort. I'd like to see they hae tu work waist-deep in +water every night for a week when they'm sixty-five. An' in the winter +tu!—If yu'm minded to come t'night, yu be up my house 'bout 'leven +o'clock, an' I'll fetch me nets from under cliff if they b——y b——rs +o' boys an't been there disturbin' of 'em." +</p> + +<p> +Uncle Jake's cottage looks outside like a small cellar that has somehow +risen above the ground and then has been thatched with old straw and +whitewashed. Inside, it is a shadowy place, stacked up high with +sailing and fishing gear, flotsam, jetsam, balks of wood and all the +odds and ends that he picks up on his prowlings along the coast. With +tattered paper screens, he has partitioned off, near the fire and +window, a small and very crowded cosy-corner. There he was sitting when +I arrived; bread, butter, onions, sugar and tea—his staple foods—on +the round table beside him, and his prawn-nets on the flagstones at his +feet. Three cats glided about among the legs of the table and chairs, +on the lookout to steal. Using the gentle violence that cats love from +those they trust, Uncle Jake flung them one by one to the other side of +the room. They returned, purring, to snatch at the none too fresh berry +[eggs] of spider-crab with which the nets were being baited. +</p> + +<p> +The shallow small-meshed setting-nets are about two feet in diameter at +the top. Stretched taut from side to side of the rim are two doubled +strings or <i>thirts</i>—which cross at right angles directly above +the centre of the net, and into which, near the middle, the four pieces +of bait are ingeniously and simply fixed by little sliders on the +thirts themselves. The whole apparatus hangs level from a yard or more +of stout line, at the upper end of which is a small stick, a stumpy +fishing rod, so to speak, often painted white so that it may be easily +found as it lies on the dark rocks. Uncle Jake's net-sticks, however, +are anything but white. Capable almost of finding them with his eyes +shut, he would sooner lose his nets altogether than let whitened sticks +point out to other people the pools which he alone knows. +</p> + +<p> +We put the nets into a couple of sacks and shouldered them. A long +light pole was placed into my hand. "Don't yu never leave your pole +behind. Yu'll want it, sure 'nuff, afore this night's over." +</p> + +<p> +So we set out. One by one the cats who were following, left us to go +back home. We did not walk towards the sea. On the contrary we went +inland, through some roads with demure sleeping villas on either side. +"If they bloody poachers," Uncle Jake explained, "see'd us going +straight towards the sea, they'd follow. <i>I</i> knows 'em! They takes +away the livelihood o' the likes o' us an' sells it. Sells it—an' says +'tis sport! I leads 'em a dance sometimes. I goes along a narrow ledge +that's jest under water, wi' ten or twelve feet depth on either side. +On they comes a'ter me. 'Uncle Jake knows where to go,' they says. And +in <i>they</i> goes—not knowing the place like I du—head over heels +an' a swim for it! O Lor'! they don' like it when I tells 'em they +better go home an' tumble into dry clothes. Yu shude hear the language +they spits out o' their mouths 'long wi' the salt water. Horrible, tu +be sure!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>SETTING-NETS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Broken Rocks, a playground for children by day, look wild and strange +on a night when clouds are driving across the moon, when the cliffs +fade into darkness high above the beach, and everything not black is +grey, except where the white surf beats upon the outermost ledge. Then +Broken Rocks have personality. A sinister spirit rises out of them with +the heave of the sea. It is as if some black mood, some great monotony +of strife, were closing in around one. On the sea wall, in the +sunshine, I used to wonder why Uncle Jake calls Broken Rocks a terr'ble +place. Now I do not. He works there by night. +</p> + +<p> +We peered out from the beach underneath the cliffs. Nobody had +forestalled us. Uncle Jake was pleased. He laughed hoarsely, and the +echo of it was not unlike the natural noises of the place. "Us'll make +a start there," he said, pointing to a ledge between which and +ourselves was a wide sheet of water. "Yu follow me an' feel for a +foothold wi' your pole. <i>Don't</i> yu step afore yu've felt." +</p> + +<p> +Into the water he went; seemed, indeed, to run across it. "Be 'ee wet?" +he asked when I stepped out the other side. +</p> + +<p> +"Half way up my thighs!" +</p> + +<p> +"Yu hadn't no need to get wet so far up as your knees. I didn't. An' yu +might ha' gone in there over your head. Yu use your pole, skipper. Feel +afore yu steps. I'll set 'ee your two nets for a beginning." +</p> + +<p> +With his pole he felt the depth of the water around the ledge. Then he +dropped the nets down, edging them carefully under the overhanging +weed, and placed the sticks on the rock above. "Don't yu forget where +yu sets your nets. Yu won't <i>see</i>'em. An' when yu hauls up, go +gently, like so, else off goes all they master prawns, d'rec'ly they +feels a jerk.... Leave 'em down a couple o' minutes.... But there, yu +knows, don' 'ee? Us won't catch much till the tide turns. They prawns +knows when 'tis beginning to flow so well as yu an' me. Yu work this +yer, an' along easterly. I be going farther out." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>PRAWNS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +When I hauled up my first net I heard the faint clicketty noise—like +paper scratching metal—of three or four prawns jumping about inside. +My hand had to chase them many times round the net. One jumped over; +one fell through. Nothing is more difficult to withdraw from a net than +prawns, except it be a lobster, flipping itself about, hardly visible, +and striking continually with its nippers. There was a lobster in the +second net. It had to go into the same pocket as the prawns. It was +something of an adventure afterwards to put a hand into the pocketful +of lobster claws and prawn spines. +</p> + +<p> +Working eastward and outward, plunging in to the water or sliding with +bumps and bruises off a rock, I must have passed Deadman's Rock, Danger +Gutter, Broken Rock and the Wreckstone. (Things of the sea nearly +always take name from their evil aspects.) Uncle Jake could have told +me at any moment exactly where I was. +</p> + +<p> +At last, near the surf, I saw in front of me a flat table-rock, +standing up alone, and as I descended towards the foot of it, a high +black rocky archway became plain. Broad-leaved oarweed covered it like +giant hair, and hung drooping into the deep black pool beneath. The +moonlight glinted on the oarweed. The pool, though darkly calm, ebbed +and flowed silently with the waves outside. I recognized the place. It +was Hospital Rock—the rock the little boats strike on because it is +smooth on top and the waves do not break over it very much. I half +expected the ugly head of a great conger to look out at me from the +pool. As I lay flat on the rock to drop my nets, the rattle and roar of +the sea beyond, vibrating through the solid stone, the whistle of the +wind through the downhanging oarweed, sounded like an orchestra of the +mad damn'd. +</p> + +<p> +I caught nothing there, and was not sorry. The place was too eerie to +stay in long. "Ah!" said Uncle Jake when we met again on the inner +reef, "I've knowed they amateurs run straight off home when they've +a-found theirselves under Hospital. A terr'ble place! Yu knows now. Did +'ee set your nets there? Eh?" +</p> + +<p> +He took some fresh bait from his prawn bag and fixed it in the thirts +of my nets. "'Tis nearly over," he said, "but jest yu try that, an' if +they'm there that'll hae 'em. There's no bait like that there when yu +can get it, on'y nobody knows o'it." +</p> + +<p> +The nature of that bait I shall not divulge, any more than I shall name +the place where Uncle Jake goes to play with the young ravens in the +spring. Somebody might catch his prawns; somebody would shoot his +ravens. We had caught about two hundred prawns between us, a few +lobsters and some wild-crabs. As we walked homewards, the three cats +came down the lane, one by one, to welcome Uncle Jake. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>EAST WITH A SKIM-NET</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Next day we sailed east in the <i>Moondaisy</i>. Uncle Jake straddled +the pools and lifted the heavy stones. Then in a skim-net,<a href="#note18" name="noteref18"><sup>18</sup></a> with +marvellous dexterity, he caught the almost invisible prawns as they +darted away. He dragged lobsters out of holes, and cursed the +neighbouring villagers who had been down to the shore after crabs and +had disturbed his favourite stones. He knows how each one ought to lie; +he even keeps the seaweed on some of them trimmed to its proper length. +"But 'tain't like 't used to be," he says. +</p> + +<p> +He has almost given up going to sea for fish; some say because he will +not take the trouble; but I think it is because he loves his rocks and +cliffs so well. No one knows how much by night and day he haunts the +wilder stretches of shore, nor how many miles he trudges in a week. But +the gulls know him well, and will scream back to him when he calls. His +laugh has something of the gulls' cry in it. I have heard it remarked +that when his time comes (no sign of it yet) he will be found one +morning dead among his familiar rocks. He is acquainted with death +there. He has borne home on his shoulder by night the body of a woman +who had fallen from the cliffs above; and again a negro that had washed +ashore. With a little self-control one might have carried the woman all +right, but the drowned nigger.... Imagine his face in the darkness—his +eyes! Only a man with greatness in him, or a very callous man, could +have brought such a corpse home, all along under the crumbling cliffs; +and Uncle Jake is certainly not callous. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +5 +</p> + +<p> +"Let 'em try any o' their tricks on me! They can turn out the likes o' +us all right, I s'pose. But I can tell 'em what I thinks on 'em, here's +luck. Thank God I don't live in no tradesman's house, an' can deal +where I likes. Not that I shouldn't anyway...." +</p> + +<p> +Grannie Pinn's shrill angry voice pierced the kitchen door. The +occasion was a mothers' gossiping; the subject, a kind of boycott that +is practised in Seacombe. On the table there was a jug of ale and stout +and an hospitably torn-open bag of biscuits. Around it sat Grannie +Pinn—bolt upright in the courting chair, with her hands folded—Mrs +Meer and Mam Widger. The feathers in Grannie Pinn's hat shook like a +bush on the cliff-edge. All of them looked as if they felt a vague +responsibility for the right conduct of the world. In short, they +looked political. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>POOR MAN v. TRADESMAN</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The poor people here live in small colonies scattered behind the main +street and among the villas, in little blocks of old neglected +property, some of which has been bought up by tradesmen. So much of the +former village spirit still survives, and so many of the tradesmen have +but recently risen from poorer circumstances, that between some of the +oldest and the youngest of them, and the workmen, there is even yet a +rather mistrustful fellowship. They call each other, Jim, Dick, Harry +and so on—over glasses, at all events. The growth of the class spirit, +as opposed to the old village spirit, can be seen plainly when Bessie +returns from school, saying: "Peuh! Dad's only a fisherman. Why can't +'er catch more fish an' get a little shop an' be a gen'leman?" Seacombe +tradesmen have been withdrawing into a class of their own—the class of +'not real gen'lemen'—and have been showing a tendency to act together +against the rest of the people, and to form rings for the purpose of +keeping shops empty or prices up. Nobody minds their bleeding visitors. +That is what God sends visitors for; and besides, the season is so +short. But when they began to overcharge their fellow townsmen, in +summer because it was the season and in winter because it wasn't the +season, the poor people revolted, and amid tremendous hubbub, thunders +of talk and lightnings of threat, a co-operative store was opened. Then +did the tradesmen remind the poor of old family debts, legacies from +hard times. Then did the poor say: "Very well, us'll hae our own store +and bakery, and pay cash down to ourselves." Unable to obtain the +tenancy of a shop, they bought one. They refused to raise the price of +bread. They laughed at advertisements which professed to point out the +fallacies of all co-operation. They succeeded, but the class difference +was widened and clinched—poor man <i>versus</i> tradesman. +</p> + +<p> +Grannie Pinn, Mrs Meer and Mam Widger were reckoning up the number of +people who have been turned out of their cottages, or are under notice +to quit, for neglecting to deal with their tradesmen landlords. +</p> + +<p> +Their indignation having found vent, they went on to talk of Virgin +Offwill, who has acquired celebrity by living alone in a cottage on no +one knows what, by sleeping in an armchair before the fire (when she +can afford one), and by never washing. Sometime last month, Virgin sent +for Dr Jacks because, so she said, she was wished [bewitched]; and she +would not let him go until he threatened to report the state of her +house to the medical officer of health. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>GOD SAVE—THE DINNER</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The tale of Virgin Offwill was capped by another—that of old Mrs +Widworthy. Several years ago (these gossips have long memories) she +received a postal order from her son together with an invitation to +visit him in London. The post arrived after her man had gone to work. +She did not wait; she sent out a neighbour's child to change the order, +packed her few things in a basket, and went off to her son by the +midday train. On the table she left a note: +</p> +<div class="blockquote"> +<p> +"Widworthy, I am gone to London. Your dinner is in the saucepan. I +shall be back directly." +</p> +</div> +<p> +There was loud laughter in the kitchen; another round of stout and ale; +then silence. The mothers fidgeted, each after her own manner, +meditatively. In all the world, and Seacombe, there seemed nothing to +talk about—or too much. +</p> + +<p> +"Have 'ee heard ort lately of Ned Corry?" asked Grannie Pinn with a +delightful mixture of gusto and propriety. "Have 'er still got Dina wi' +'en?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, I think." +</p> + +<p> +"An' his wife tu?" +</p> + +<p> +Bessie burst into the room. Neither Tony nor Mrs Widger approve of +discussing the intimate humanities before children, so Bessie was +allowed to fling her news to us unchecked. "Mother, Miss Mase says I +can leave school so soon as yu've found me a place. Then I'll hae some +money o' my own earnings, won't I?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yu'll bring it to me, same as I had to what I earned, an' yu'll stay +on to school till I thinks vitty. You'm not fit for a gen'leman's +house." +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, I be. I can work. That's what yu'm paid for, ain't it?" +</p> + +<p> +"How many cups an' saucers have yu smashed this week?" +</p> + +<p> +"Have they learned 'ee all yu wants to know up to school?" inquired +Grannie Pinn quietly, but with a twinkle at the company. +</p> + +<p> +"They an't learned me to play the pi-anno. That's what I wants now. If +Dad 'd get one, <i>I</i>'d play." +</p> + +<p> +"Have they learned 'ee to cook a dinner?" +</p> + +<p> +"Anybody can du thic. I've learned to play <i>God Save the King</i> on +the school pi-anno." +</p> + +<p> +"How do 'ee start then?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, you puts your fingers...." +</p> + +<p> +"Naw! I means how du 'ee start to cook dinner?" +</p> + +<p> +"Peuh!" +</p> + +<p> +"Her an't learned tidiness," said Mam Widger. "Lookse! Her scarf on one +chair, gloves flinged on another, coat slatted on the ground an' her +hat on the dresser—now, since her's come in! Pick 'em up to once, else +thee't hae my hand 'longside o'ee!" +</p> + +<p> +Bessie scrabbled up her clothes and, making sounds of disgust, went +out. +</p> + +<p> +"Her'll steady down, I hope," remarked Mrs Widger. "Her's wild, but a +gude maid to try an' help a body, though her makes so much work as her +does." +</p> + +<p> +"Ay!" said Grannie Pinn grimly. "If work don't steady her, there's +nothing will." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>NED CORRY</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +When Bessie was gone the conversation reverted to Ned Corry and the +ages of his children. I met him last summer—have never ceased hearing +about him, for his sayings are often repeated and his adventures at sea +recounted. He came down here on holiday with his wife, who appeared to +be very happy and was obviously very proud of her Ned. The morning he +went back, he collected all of his old mates he could find, before +breakfast, into a public-house, treated them to whisky until his +pockets were empty, and then borrowed money to return to London. His +personality seems to have left a deeper impression than any other on +Seacombe. He is a man very alive; big, generous and uncontrollable in +all things; so broad that he seems short; great in voice, great in +strength, greatest in laughter. Very dark, and prominent in feature +where his fierce black beard allows any of his face to be seen, he is a +kind of Hebraic Berserker in general appearance, in the uncompromising +force of him and the squat sloppiness of his clothes. Yet his eyes, +almost bedded in hair, have often the bright peeping humorousness of a +shaggy dog's. +</p> + +<p> +He had the most boats on the beach, and mighty strokes of luck with the +fish; employed more men than anyone before or since; paid them well +when he had the money, and with an irregularity which would have been +tolerated from no other boat-owner. Dina went to lodge at his house. He +made of her, so gossip says, a second wife. He succeeded in running a +household of three; then bought two lodging houses and set a wife to +manage each. "Ned was all right," Tony says, "on'y he didn't know how +to look after hisself—didn't care—nor after his money when he made +it." One evening, Tony found him in his bath in the middle of the +kitchen whilst his womenfolk were cooking him a good hot supper. It was +not his being in his bath which made Tony blush, but the freedom with +which he called, "Come in!" +</p> + +<p> +When the prudent-minded of Seacombe clamoured to Ned for their money, +he sold up his boats and furniture, went to London, took without +apprenticeship a well-paid job at the docks, and now, as he walks home +along the dockside streets, he is given <i>Good Night</i> from London +Bridge to Tilbury. The exerting of strength seems to have been his +leading impulse; pride in Ned Corry his only check. He was too big for +Seacombe. In London he remains entirely himself—'West-country Ned!' +</p> + +<p> +Before Ned Corry's affairs were finished with, Tony came into the +kitchen, saying: "I just been talking out there to Skinny Chubb. Nice +quiet chap, he is. His wife <i>is</i> gone." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, didn't 'ee know that?" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>SELF-RESTRAINT</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Then I heard a wonderful tale of self-restraint. Chubb is a good +workman, a man of about fifty with grown up boys and girls. His wife +has been no good to him. She used to have men in the house when he was +away. She provided them with grog and food, but there was never +anything for Chubb to eat, except abuse. She won the daughters over to +her side. Sometimes she would go away to London, taking perhaps one of +the girls with her. Only the eldest son, who was not at home, sided +with his father. Neighbours used to hear the couple quarrelling half +the night, but during the whole of their married life he never once +struck or beat her. All he used to tell other people was:—"'Tis a +wonder how a man can stand all her du say to me, day an' night, early +an' late." +</p> + +<p> +Just before Michaelmas, she decided to leave her husband: to go to +London with a German flunkey. They broke up the home. Chubb packed up +for her the best of the furniture. He wrote out her labels, said +<i>Good-bye</i>, paid her cab fare to the station. Now he is living in +lodgings. Rumour has it that the German has left her. In answer to +inquiries, Chubb merely says: "Well, I tell 'ee, <i>I</i> be glad to be +out o'it all at last. <i>I</i>'ll never hae her back." +</p> + +<p> +It is a sound old piece of psychology which distinguishes a man's bark +from his bite. The poor man's bark is appalling; I often used to think +there was murder in the air when I heard some quite ordinary +discussion; there would have been murder in the air had I myself been +worked up to speak so furiously. But, comparatively speaking, he seldom +bites; hardly ever without warning; and he can as a rule stay himself +in the very act. The educated man, on the other hand, does not bark +much; one of the most important parts of his education has been the +teaching him not to do so; but when he does bite, it is blindly, and he +makes his teeth meet if he can. We hear, of course, much more of the +poor man in the police courts, and we imagine (spite of Herbert +Spencer's warning) that education is to diminish his crimes. How very +simple and fallacious! In the first place, the poor, the uneducated or +but slightly educated, greatly out-number the educated. Suppose by +means of complete and trustworthy criminal statistics, we could work +out the <i>percentage criminality</i> of the different classes. I fancy +that the poor man would not then show—even judged by our whimsical +legal and moral standards—a greater percentage criminality than the +educated. And if in our statistics we could include degrees of +provocation to the various crimes, such as hunger, poverty, want of the +money to leave exasperating surroundings—it would probably be found +that the poor are, if anything, less criminally disposed than other +sections of the community; that, though they lack something of the +secondary self-restraint which prevents bark and noise, they are, other +things being equal, actually stronger in that primary self-restraint, +the lack of which leads directly to crime. On <i>a priori</i>, +historical, grounds one would anticipate such a conclusion. +</p> + +<p> +It is certain that they forgive offence more readily. +</p> + +<p> +I have often wondered how many nice quiet respectable vindictive +murders are yearly done by educated men too clever to be found out. The +poor man is a fool at 'Murder as a Fine Art.' He hacks and bashes. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +6. +</p> + +<p> +Sighting, as we thought, some balks of timber, floating away on the ebb +tide over the outside of Broken Rocks, two of us shoved a small boat +down the beach. Our flotsam was a trick of the fading light on the sea, +just where Broken Rocks raised the swell a little; but in the +exquisite, the almost menacing, calm of the evening, we leaned on our +oars and watched for a while. To seaward, the horizon was a peculiar +lowering purple, as if a semi-opaque sheet of glass were placed there. +On land, over the Windgap, the sunset was like many ranks of yellow and +shining black banners—hard, brassy. The sea was a misty blue. One by +one, according to their prominence, the bushes on the face of the +cliffs faded into the general contour. As we landed, a slight lop came +over the water from the dark south-east. "Ah!" said Uncle Jake. "We'm +going to hae it. South-easter's coming!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>CALLED OUT BETIMES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +There was some discussion as to whether or not we should haul the boats +up over the sea-wall. In the end we hauled the smaller ones, leaving +the <i>Cock Robin</i> and the drifter upon the beach. +</p> + +<p> +In the very early morning—it was so dark I could not see the outline +of the window—I half awoke to an indistinct sensation that the house +was rocking and hell unloosed outside. Something solid seemed to be +beating the wall. Than I heard Grandfer's voice roaring at the foot of +the stairs:—"What is it? Why, tell thic Tony he'd better hurry up else +all the boats 'll be washed away. Blowing a hurricane 'tis! Sea's +making. Oughtn't to ha' left they boats...." +</p> + +<p> +"Be quiet! yu'll wake all the kids up." +</p> + +<p> +"Blowing a hurricane 'tis! Nort to me if the boats du wash off. Tony'd +never wake." +</p> + +<p> +"All right, I'll wake him." +</p> + +<p> +In five minutes we were downstairs, with the fire lighted and the +kettle on. +</p> + +<p> +Outside, it was pitch dark. There was nothing there, it seemed, except +a savage wind and stinging splotches of rain and the cry of the low +tide on the sand. I felt my way up the Gut and out, sliding one foot +before the other so as not to fall over the sea-wall. John Widger +bumped into me, and together we crept along to the capstan. A white +shadow of surf was just visible. We dropped gingerly off the wall to +the beach, trusting there was no iron gear there to smash our ankles. +Then for an hour we fumbled our way about; pushed, hauled, +disentangled, slid and swore; grasping sometimes the right rope and +sometimes the wrong one with hands almost too cold and stiff, too +painful, to grasp anything at all. +</p> + +<p> +Out of the blackness came another hurricane squall with rain that +lashed. The rushing air itself shook. We crouched, all humped up, in +the lew of a drifter's bows, whilst the rain water washed around our +boots and coat-tails. "This 'll tell 'ee what 'tis like for us chaps," +said Tony. "I be only sorry," Uncle Jake added, "for them what's out to +sea now in ships wi' rotten gear." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A DISCOLOURED FURY</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +As the dawn broke thick, the sea rose still further, until it was a +discoloured fury battering the shore. With Uncle Jake I watched some +long planks, four inches in thickness and ten broad, swept off the top +of the beach. We saw them hurtled over Broken Rocks, now dashed against +the cliff, now careering, so to speak, on their hind legs. Such were +their mad capers that we laughed aloud. We were far from wishing to +save them. We rejoiced with them. +</p> + +<p> +As the day blew on, the wind moderated inshore and the lop gathered +itself together into a heavy swell. And after dark, at half tide, Uncle +Jake and myself worked hard. We dragged the heavy planks from a surf +that seemed ever advancing on us to drive us towards the cliffs, yet +never did, and we propped up the planks against cliffs whose crumbling +drove us constantly down to the sea. There's a winter's firing there. +</p> + +<p> +We talked—out-howling the noise jerkily—of wrecks and wreckages. Had +we had the chance, we might then conceivably have wrecked a ship. For +there, on the narrow strip of shingle between the wash of the waves and +the unstable cliff, we were primitive men, ready without ruth to wreck +for ourselves the contrivances of civilization. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +7. +</p> + +<p> +Tony has received one or two presents this autumn, and now the gales +have put an end to all kinds of fishing, he is beginning to write his +letters of thanks. Or rather, he bothers Mam Widger to write them for +him, and when she has said sufficiently often, "G'out yu mump-head! Du +it yourself!" he sets to work. After long hesitation, pen in hand, and +a laborious commencement, he dashes off a letter, protests that it +ought to be burnt, and sends it to post. He acts, indeed, a comic +version of the groans and travail about which literary men talk so +much. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>PRESENTS AND TIPS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Whether he prefers a present or a tip is doubtful, and depends largely +on the amount of money in the house. Presents are more valued; tips +more useful. He feels that 'there didn't ought to be no need of tips'; +knows obscurely that they are one of the effects, and the causes, of +class difference; that they are either a tacit admission that his +labour is underpaid, or else such an expression of good-will as a man +would not presume to give to 'the likes o' himself,' or else an +indirect bribe for some or other undue attention. Usually, however, not +wishing to go into the matter so thoroughly—having come in contact +with outsiders chiefly when they have been on holiday and least +economical—he considers a tip merely as the outflowing of a +gen'leman's abundance. "They can afford it, can't 'em? They lives in +big houses, an' it helps keeps thees yer little lot fed an' booted." +</p> + +<p> +If, however, he has reason to believe that 'a nice quiet gen'leman' is +really hard-up, then he is very sorry, and will reduce the rate of hire +by so much as half. In such cases, it is well that the gen'leman should +add a small tip, for his niceness' sake. Then is Tony more than paid. +</p> + +<p> +The gentleman, as such, seems to be losing prestige. Gentility is being +made to share its glory with education, 'Ignorant' is becoming a worse +insult than 'no class.' Grandfer, in argument will think to prove his +case by saying: "Why, a gen'leman told us so t'other day on the Front. +A gen'leman told me, I tell thee!" Grandfer's sons would like the +gen'leman's reasons. In fact the stuff and nonsense that the chatting +gen'leman, feeling himself safe from contradiction, will try to teach a +so-called ignorant fisherman, is most amazing. If he but knew how +shrewdly he is criticised, afterwards.... +</p> + +<p> +Education even is esteemed not so much for the knowledge it provides, +still less for its wisdom, as for the advantage it gives a man in +practical affairs; the additional money it earns him. "No doubt they +educated people knows a lot what I don't," says Tony, "an' can du a lot +what I can't; but there's lots o' things what I puzzles me old head +over, an' them not the smallest, what they ain't no surer of than I be. +Ay! an' not so sure, for there's many on 'em half mazed wi' too much +o'it." +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +8. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>BESSIE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Bessie has finally left school. The excitement, the chatter, the sudden +air of superiority over the other children, the critical glance round +the room when she returns home.... She has learnt next to nothing of +school-work—which matters little, since she is strong, hopeful, and +has a genuine wish to do her best. What does matter is, that she is +careless, inclined to be slatternly, and has no idea of precision +either in speech or work. (Few girls have.) This is in part, no doubt, +mere whelpishness to be grown out of presently. She picks up some piece +of gossip. "Mother! Mrs Long's been taken to hospital. Her's going to +die, I 'spect." +</p> + +<p> +"No her an't gone to hospital nuther. Dr Bayliss says as her's got to +go if she ain't better to-morrow. Isn't that what you've a-heard now?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes—but I thought her'd most likely be gone 'fore this," says Bessie +without, apparently, the least sense of shame, or even of inexactitude. +</p> + +<p> +The other day she reached down a cup to get herself a drink of water. +Then she took some pains to see if the cup still <i>looked</i> clean, +and finding it did, she replaced it among the other clean ones on the +dresser. +</p> + +<p> +Her mother sent her out to the larder for some more bread. Bessie +brought in a new loaf. +</p> + +<p> +"That ain't it," said Mrs Widger. "There's a stale one there." +</p> + +<p> +"No, there ain't." +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, there is." +</p> + +<p> +"I've looked, an't I?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yu go an' look again, my lady." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, 'tis dark, an' I an't got no light to see with." +</p> + +<p> +Protesting vehemently, Bessie found the stale loaf. Were I her +mistress, she would irritate me into a very bad temper, and then, by +her muddle-headed willingness, would make me sorry. She is untrained. +School has in no way disciplined her mind. From early childhood, of +course, she has had to do many odd jobs for her mother, but a woman +with the whole burden of a house on her shoulders, who has never found +the two ends more than just meet, cannot spare time or thought to train +her girls systematically. It is so much easier to do the whole of the +work herself. Bessie's usefulness, such as it is, speaks a deal for her +disposition. After all, how many women in any station of life, have +precision and forethought enough to lay a fire so that it will burn up +at once? Bessie is only thirteen. It is, indeed, her ability for her +age that tempts one to judge her by a standard which elsewhere—except +among women discussing their servants—would only be applied to a girl +of twenty. +</p> + +<p> +Suppose fathers judged their daughters as mothers judge their +servants.... +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>GOING INTO SERVICE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +For the present, Bessie is in daily service at a lodging-house. For a +'gen'leman's residence,' which would be better for her, she is +over-young and would, besides, need an outfit of dresses, caps and +aprons which she is not yet old enough to take care of, nor will be +until she is ready to fall in love. She can go to Mrs Butler's in a +torn dress and dirty pinafore. She is not expected to appear before the +visitors; only to do the dirty, rough, and heavy work behind the +scenes. It was a condition of her leaving school so young, that she +should go into service and sleep there. Very naturally, Mrs Widger and +Mrs Butler soon arranged that the 'education lady,' when she came to +inspect, should be shown Bessie's bedroom at the lodging-house—and +that Bessie should sleep at home. It was better for all three; for Mrs +Butler who is short of room, for Mrs Widger who wants Bessie's help, +and for Bessie who still requires her mother's authority and oversight. +Educationalists don't seem to understand. +</p> + +<p> +In return for two shillings a week and her food, Bessie is supposed to +work twelve hours a day, from eight till eight. All she does might +possibly be crammed into three hours a day; that is all she is paid +for. She brings home her supper in a piece of newspaper. One evening +she brought some chicken bones which had been in turn the foundation of +roast chicken, cold chicken, stewed chicken, and soup. Bessie rather +enjoyed them. Another evening, she unwrapped a whole cake. It fell on +the floor, whack! neither bouncing, nor breaking. It was full of dough. +A basin of soup-dregs which she brought home two days ago was found to +contain a length of stewed string. Stewed to rags, it was, like badly +boiled meat. Bessie says that Mrs Butler did miss a bell-rope. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +9 +</p> + +<p> +There was a rush and a banging up the passage. The kitchen door burst +violently open. A girl (though she wore long skirts her figure was +unformed and her waist had a stiff youthful curve) ran quickly into the +room. +</p> + +<p> +Her eager bright-coloured young face—that also not yet fully +formed—was overshadowed by a flapping decorated hat obviously +constructed less for a woman's head—less still for a maiden's—than +for a cash draper's window. Her chest was plastered with a motley +collection of cheap jewellery and lace. Her boots had not been cleaned. +</p> + +<p> +She dropped her cardboard boxes on the floor. Regardless of her womanly +attire, like nothing so much as a hasty child, she flung her arms round +Tony's neck. +</p> + +<p> +"Hallo, Dad! How be 'ee? Eh? How's everybody? Lord, I'm hungry. Look +what I got for 'ee. An't forgot nobody this time, though 'tisn't +everybody as remembers me. Look, Dad!" +</p> + +<p> +"What is it?" asked Tony, looking blankly, as if he could hardly +realise so much clatter. +</p> + +<p> +"Lookse, Dad! What do 'ee think o'it?" +</p> + +<p> +A box was torn open. From it came a couple of glass ornaments, and +various sorts of 'coloured rock' and sticky toffee for the children. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>BACK FROM SERVICE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +It was Tony's eldest daughter, Jenny, come home from service. She +walked round the room picking up things to examine, things to eat, +things that she claimed were hers, and things that she desired given +her. She talked without, so far as I could see, any connection between +the sentences. Mouthfuls of food reduced her babbling shriek to a +burr-burr. +</p> + +<p> +"Be 'ee glad to see your daughter, Dad?" +</p> + +<p> +"Iss...." said Tony, looking at her very fondly, but still puzzled. +</p> + +<p> +"Don't believe yu be. Why didn't 'ee write then if yu loves me so?" +</p> + +<p> +"Thic's Mam 'Idger's job." +</p> + +<p> +"G'out!" said Mrs Widger,—"Jenny, you an't see'd our addition, have +'ee." +</p> + +<p> +I held out my hand. Jenny blushed; then she said: "Good evening, sir"; +then she giggled; and finally she turned her back on me. It took a +minute or two for her happy carelessness to return. +</p> + +<p> +Domestic servants on holiday, more than any other class of people, +strain one's tact and rouse one's ingrained snobbery. They tend to be +over-respectful—the sort of respectfulness that presupposes +reward,—and to brandish <i>sirs</i>, or to be shy and silly, or else +to treat one with a more airy familiarity than the acquaintanceship +warrants. In the matter of manners, they sit between two chairs, the +class they serve has one code; the class they spring from has another, +equally good perhaps, certainly in some respects more delicate, but +different. In imitating the one code, unsuccessfully, they lose their +hold on the other. Their very speech—a mixture of dialect and standard +English with false intonations—betrays them. They are like a man +living abroad, who has lost grip on his native customs, and has +acquired ill the customs of his adopted country. It is not their fault. +Circumstances sin against them. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger tells me that, when she left her mother's for service, she +felt nothing so keenly as the loneliness, the isolation, of being in a +house where no one could be in any full sense of the word her +confidant, where she was at the beck and call of strangers from the +time she got up till the time she went to bed, where her irregular +hours of leisure were passed quite alone in a kitchen. It seems, as +might be anticipated, that <i>mental</i> comfort or discomfort is at +the bottom of the servant question, and that class differences, class +misunderstandings, are ultimately the cause of it. Often enough the +mistress wishes to be kind, but she fails to understand that what she +values most differs from what is most valued by her servants. Often +enough the servants wish to do their best, but little irritations, +unsalved by sympathy and not to be discussed on terms of equality, lead +to sulky, don't-care moods which exasperate the mistress into positive, +instead of negative, unkindness. So a vicious circle is formed. The +covert enmity between one woman and another simply calls for give and +take where both are of the same class, but when one of them is, for +payment and all day, at the disposal of the other.... How many homes +there are where the menfolk can get anything done willingly, and the +mistress nothing whatever! The girls go out so early. They miss the +rough and tumble of their homes. They have their own little ambitions, +hardly comprehensible to anyone else. Whether or no they desire to be +satisfactory, they do want their own little flutters. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +10 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>LITTLE SERVANT GIRLS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Poor brave small servant girls, earning your living while you are yet +but children! I see your faces at the doors, rosy from the country or +yellowish-white from anæmia and strong tea; see how your young breasts +hardly fill out your clinging bodices, all askew, and how your hips are +not yet grown to support your skirts properly—draggle-tails! I see you +taking the morning's milk from the hearty milkman, or going an errand +in your apron and a coat too small for you, or in your mistress's or +mother's cast-off jacket, out at the seams, puffy-sleeved, years behind +the fashion and awry at the shoulders because it is too big. I see your +floppety hat which you cannot pin down tightly to your hair, because +there isn't enough of it;—your courageous attempts to be prettier than +you are, or else your carelessness from overmuch drudgery; your +coquettish and ugly gestures mixed. +</p> + +<p> +I picture your life. Are you thinking of your work, or are you dreaming +of the finery you will buy with your month's wages; the ribbons, the +lace, or the lovely grown-up hat? Are you thinking of what he said, and +she said, and you said, you answered, you did? Are you dreaming of +<i>your</i> young man? Are you building queer castles in the air? Are +you lonely in your dingy kitchen? Have you time and leisure to be +lonely? +</p> + +<p> +I follow you into your kitchen, with its faint odour of burnt grease +(your carelessness) and of cockroaches, and its whiffs from the +scullery sink, and a love-story that scents your life, hidden away in a +drawer. I hear your mistress's bell jingle under the stairs. You must +go to bed, and sleep, and be up early, before it is either light or +warm, to work for her; you must be kept in good condition like a cart +horse or a donkey; you must earn, earn well, your so many silver pounds +a year. +</p> + +<p> +In mind, I follow you also into your little bedroom under the roof, +with its cracked water-jug that matches neither the basin or the +soap-dish, and its boards with a ragged scrap of carpet on them, and +your tin box in the corner; and the light of the moon or street lamp +coming in at the window and casting shadows on the sloping whitewashed +ceiling; and your guttered candle. What will you try on to-night? A +hat, or a dress, or the two-and-eleven-three-farthing blouse? Shift the +candle. Show yourself to the looking-glass. A poke here and a pull +there—and now put everything away carefully in the box under the bed, +and go to sleep. +</p> + +<p> +Though I say that I follow you up to your attic, and watch you and see +you go to sleep, you need not blush or giggle or snap. I would not do +you any harm; your eyes would plague me. And besides, I do not entirely +fancy you. You are not fresh. You are boxed up too much. But I trust +that some lusty careless fellow, regardless of consequences, looking +not too far ahead, and following the will of his race—I trust that he +will get hold of you and whirl you heavenwards, and will fill your +being full to the brim; and will kiss you and surround you with +himself, and will make you forget yourself and your mistress and all +the world, the leaves and birds of the Lover's Lane, the shadowy cattle +munching in the field and the footsteps approaching. +</p> + +<p> +I wish you luck—that your young man may stick to you. It is after all +a glimpse of God I wish you, perhaps your only one. +</p> + +<p> +You've got a longish time before you. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +11 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MRS YARTY</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Yarty, up Back Lane, is reduced to that last extremity of poor +women: she is cleaning her cottage and preparing as well as she can 'to +go up over' on credit, without either doctor or midwife—unless she +becomes so ill that someone sends for the parish doctor. She will not +wish that done, and probably when her time comes, some neighbour will +look in to see if she is going on as well as can be expected. Were +Yarty and his wife sufficiently servile to attend church or chapel, +prayer-meetings or revivals, all sorts of amateur parsons, male and +female, would flock round; but in any case, Mrs Yarty has no time for +such goings-on, and if Yarty found anyone sniffing about his house, he +would certainly tell them that it <i>was</i> his house. +</p> + +<p> +A while ago one of the 'district ladies' came here, to Tony's. We were +a little short with her, and as a last resource, she remarked +superciliously, in a tone of pleasant surprise: "You are really +<i>very</i> clean here." 'Twas an untruth. We are not <i>very</i> +clean: we are as cleanly as is practicable. I should have liked to show +her the door. "'Tis only the way of 'em!" said Mrs Widger. "They'm +stupid, but they means all right." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE YARTY CHILDREN</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Yarty is not low-spirited at all, and though her voice sounds +rather hysterical, it is merely her manner of speaking, slightly +accentuated perhaps by more trouble than usual. She is fairly well used +to such events by now. Yarty himself is angry. His ordinary habits are +bound to be upset for a few days; for ever, if Mrs Yarty dies. He is +what successful and conceited people call a waster. "There ain't no +harm in him," Tony says. "He wuden't hurt a fly. The only thing is, 'er +don't du much." I have never seen him actually drunk. He keeps very +nearly all his irregular earnings for his own use in a strong locked +box upstairs. His house is a sort of hotel to him, where he expects to +find a bed and food, and it is apparently not his business to inquire +how the food is obtained. If there is none, he makes a fuss, and will +not take for an answer that he has failed to bring the money. Bobby +Yarty, thin, pale, big-eyed, the eldest son but one—a nice intelligent +boy though he swears badly at his mother—is ill of a disease which +only plenty of good food can cure. If, however, food is scarce, it is +first Mrs Yarty who goes short, then the children. Whether they do, or +don't, have as much as a couple of chunks each of bread and dripping, +Yarty must have his stew or fry. The wage-earner has first claim on the +food, and even when the wage-earner does not earn, the custom is still +kept up. It is possible also that Mrs Yarty has still an underlying +affection for her man, a real desire, become instinctive, to feed him. +</p> + +<p> +She does not say so. Far from it. She says that she is sorry she ever +left a good place to marry Yarty. She would, she declares, go back into +service but for her children. Washing-day, she swears, is her jolliest +time, and she boasts, with what pride is left her, of there being +places at twelve or fourteen shillings a week still open to her. She +did take a place once—was allowed to take her baby with her—but at +the end of a fortnight she arrived home to find that her husband, +impatient for his tea, had thrown all the crockery on the floor. She +saw then that she must be content with things as they are. +</p> + +<p> +Her present worry is, what will become of the children while she is up +over, and who will feed them? Mam Widger will do her share, I don't +doubt. Very often now she puts aside something for them. There is a +sort of pleasantness in watching them take it: they run off with the +dish or baking tin like very polite and very hungry dogs, and bring it +back faithfully with exceeding great respectfulness towards a household +where there is food to spare. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Yarty is one of those people who work better for others than for +themselves. She is no manager. "They says," she remarked the other day, +"as He do take care of the sparrows." She is a sparrow herself; she +grubs up sustenance, rubs along without getting any forwarder, where +others would go under altogether. Years ago she must have been +good-looking. Her patchily grey hair is crisp; she still has a few +pretty gestures. But trouble and too much child-bearing have done next +to their worst with her. Sensible when she grasps a thing, she is often +a bit mazed. She has the figure of an old woman—bent, screwed—and the +toughness of a young one. Her words, spoken pell-mell in a high +strained voice which oscillates between laughter and tears, seem to be +tumbling down a hill one after another. Spite of all her household +difficulties, she retains the usual table of ornaments just inside the +front door. Last summer she reclaimed from the roadway a tiny +triangular garden, about five inches long in the sides, by wedging a +piece of slate between the doorstep and the wall. There she kept three +stunted little wall-flowers—no room for more—which she attended to +every morning after breakfast. Cats destroyed them in the end. She +laughed, as it were gleefully. Her laugh is her own; derisive, +open-mouthed, shapeless, hardly sane—but she has a smile—a smile at +nothing in particular, at her own thoughts—which is singularly sweet +and pathetic. I cannot but think that the spirit which enables her to +live on without despair, to love her little garden and to smile so +sweetly, is better worth than much material comfort. Hers, after all, +is a life that has its fragrance. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +12 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>TONY AS NURSEMAID</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger went off after tea to look at Rosie's grave. She likes to go +alone, without the children, and she also likes to stop and have a chat +with someone she knows up on land. In consequence, Tony, taking his +Sunday evening promenade, found the children on the Front just in that +state when they want, and do not wish, to go to bed. They followed him +in. +</p> + +<p> +"Wer's thic Mam 'Idger?" +</p> + +<p> +"Don' know!" +</p> + +<p> +"Her's gone to cementry." +</p> + +<p> +"Didn' ought to leave 'ee like thees yer." +</p> + +<p> +"Her's gone to see Rosie." +</p> + +<p> +Tony felt himself rather helpless. "Now then," he cried with a vain +nourish, "off to bed wi' 'ee!" +</p> + +<p> +"No!—No!—Shan't!—Us an't had no supper." +</p> + +<p> +"Wer is yer supper? What be going to hae?" +</p> + +<p> +"Don' know.—Mam! Mam 'Idger!" +</p> + +<p> +One started crying, then the other. +</p> + +<p> +"Casn' thee put 'em to bed thyself?" I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"I don' know! Better wait.... Her's biding away a long time. I'll hae +to talk to she." +</p> + +<p> +Tony sat down in the courting chair. The two boys climbed one on each +of his knees. They wriggled themselves comfortable, and fell asleep. He +woke them. "Won' 'ee go to bed now? I wants to go out." +</p> + +<p> +"No! No!" they cried peevishly. "Wer's thiccy Mam?" +</p> + +<p> +Their white heads, turned downwards in sleep on either side of Tony's +red weathered face, looked very patient and bud-like. Tony's eyes +twinkled over them with a humorous helplessness, crossed occasionally +by a shade of impatience. So the three of them waited for the +household's source of energy to return. Tony had been wanting a glass +of beer. He nearly slept too. +</p> + +<p> +Mam Widger said, when she did come, that they were 'all so big a fule +as one another.' "Casn' thee even get thy children off to bed?" she +asked. +</p> + +<p> +"I can't help o'it," was Tony's reply. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>LOSS OF TEMPER</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +She has taken the household affairs so completely on her shoulders that +he is almost helpless without her. In many ways, and in the better, the +biblical, sense of the word, he is still so childlike that he often +gets done for him what it would be useless for other people who have +little of the child in them, to expect. For the same reason, bullies +choose him out for attack. If I should happen to lose my temper with +him, it is a fault on my part, quickly repented of and quicker +forgiven, but a fault nevertheless. If he, on the other hand, loses his +temper with me, he merely says afterwards: "Ah! I be al'ays like +that—irritable like; I al'ays was an' I al'ays shall be to the end o' +the chapter." He assumes that there was no fault on his part, that his +loss of temper was simply the outcome of the nature of things and of +himself, and consequently that there was nothing to call for +forgiveness. The curious thing is that one feels his view to be right. +One does not <i>forgive</i> children; nor the childlike spirit either. +</p> + +<p> +Returning from sea one evening, more lazy than tired, he said: "You +wash me face, Mam, an' I'll wash me hands myself." His face was washed +amid shouts of laughter, and I tugged off his boots. We were all quite +pleased. Happy is the man for whom one can do that sort of thing! +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger explained the other day at dinner that for a time after they +were married, Tony used to help a great deal with the housework, until +once, when he was doing something clumsily, she said: "Git 'long out +wi' 'ee, I can du that!" +</p> + +<p> +"Iss," added Tony, "I used to scrub, and help her wi' the washing (an' +kiss her tu), but I ain't done nort to it since her spoke to me rough, +like that, an' now I be got out the way o'it, an' that's the reason +o'it—thic Mam 'Idger there!" +</p> + +<p> +"G'out! 'tis thy...." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh well, I du cuddle 'ee sometimes, when yu'm willing!" +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +13 +</p> + +<p> +Against the beach the listless sea made a sound like a rattle, very +gently and continuously shaken by a very tired baby. Nothing was doing. +The air was a little too chilly for pleasure boating. Tony had gone to +'put away up over' the after-dinner hour. I lay down to read, and fell +asleep to the meg-meg of Mam Widger's voice chatting in a neighbour's +doorway. +</p> + +<p> +Two or three small pebbles jumped through the open window. Uncle Jake +was below. When he says, on the Front, that he is going somewhere, he +may set off this week, next week, or never; but when he wakes one +up.... I hastened down. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>PRAWNING WITH BOAT-NETS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Going shrimpin' wi' the boat-nets," he said, flavouring, as it were, a +tit-bit in his mouth. "Must try and earn summut if I bean't going to +feel the pinch o' <i>thees</i> winter." Then he added as if it were an +afterthought: "Be 'ee coming?" +</p> + +<p> +"When?" +</p> + +<p> +"Now—so sune as I can get enough bait. I've a-got a beautiful cod's +head towards it. Back about midnight, I daresay." +</p> + +<p> +"All right." +</p> + +<p> +"Put some clothes on your back. I'll bring a bottle o'tay—better than +brewers' tack—an' go'n get the boat ready. Take the +<i>Moondaisy</i>.... Eh?" +</p> + +<p> +Tony, just downstairs and still rubbing his eyes (when he snoozes he +goes right to bed), asked what was up. "Shrimping wi' Uncle Jake," I +replied. "That'll gie thee a doing!" he said. "Yu ask George. George +used to be Uncle Jake's mate. 'Tis, 'Back oar-for'ard—back wi' +inside—steady—steady—damn yer eyes!' George couldn't put up wi' it. +Jake don' never sleep hisself, and wuden' let he sleep." +</p> + +<p> +The poor little <i>Moondaisy</i>, lying on ways at the water's edge, +looked as if she had a small deckhouse aft. Sixteen boat-nets,<a href="#note19" name="noteref19"><sup>19</sup></a> with +their lines and corks, were piled up on the stern seats. In the +stern-sheets were two baskets, one of them very smelly, and a newspaper +parcel that reeked. Piled up in the bows were bits of old rope, sacks +and bags (very catty), chips of wood, empty tea-bottles, and all the +litter that collects in a boat used by Uncle Jake. +</p> + +<p> +"Where are we going?" I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"<i>I</i> knows; but if anybody asks yu where we'm going, or where +we've been, don't yu tell 'em. Don't want none o' they treble-X-ers on +our ground. You say like ol' Pussey Pengelly used to: 'Down to Longo.' +I don't hae nobody 'long wi' me what can't keep a quiet tongue.—I can +see some o' they hellers down there now, but they ain't so far west as +we'm going, not by a long way. An' yu wuden' see 'em where they be if +they didn't think 'twas going to be a quiet night with not much pulling +attached to it. But <i>I</i> shuden' be surprised to see a breeze down +easterly 'fore morning. Don't du to get caught down to Longo be an +easterly breeze. Lord, the pulls I've a-had to get home 'fore now!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE HIGH-TIDE WAVES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +A very old-fashioned figure Uncle Jake looked, standing up in the +stern-sheets and bending rhythmically, sweep and jerk, sweep and jerk, +to his long oar, as if there were wires inside him. His grey +picture-frame beard seems to have the effect of concentrating the +expressiveness of his face, the satiric glint of his eyes, the dry +smile, the straightness of his shaven upper lip, and the kindly +lighting-up of the whole visage when he calls to the sea-gulls and they +answer him back, and he says with the delight of a child, "There! Did +'ee hear thic?" Keeping close along shore in order to avoid the +strength of the flood tide against us, we rode with a perfection of +motion on the heave of the breaking swell. As we were passing over the +inside of Broken Rocks, three waves ran far up the beach. "Did 'ee hear +thic rattle?" Uncle Jake exclaimed. "That was the high-tide wave, then, +whatever the tide-tables say. Yu'll hear the low tide t'night if yu +listens." +</p> + +<p> +Once I backed the boat ashore for Uncle Jake to go and look at one of +the numerous holes under the cliffs, in every one of which he has +wreckage stored up for firewood against the winter. He can at least +depend on having warmth. When he is nowhere to be found, he is a as a +rule down-shore carrying jetsam into caves. Much of it he gives away +for no other payment than the privilege of talking sarcastically at +those who don't trouble to go and of blazing forth at them when they +do. +</p> + +<p> +The November sun went down while we rowed, an almost imperceptible +fading of daylight into delicate thin colours and finally into a shiny +grey half-light. More and more the cliffs lowered above us. They lost +their redness except where a glint of the sun burned splendidly upon +them; coloured shadows, as it were, came to life in the high earthern +flanks, lifted themselves off, and floated away into the sunset, until +the land stood against and above the sea, black and naked, crowned with +distorted thorn bushes. Very serene was the sky, but a little hard. +"Wind down east t'morrow," Uncle Jake repeated. We passed Refuge Cove, +over Dog Tooth Ledge, and along Landlock Bay. We tossed over the Brandy +Mull, a great round pit in a reef, where even in calm weather the tide +boils always. No further were there any beaches. The sea washed to the +sheer cliffs through tumbled heaps of rocks. "<i>'Tis</i> an ironbound +shop!" said Uncle Jake. "Poor fellows, that gets wrecked hereabout! I +knows for some copper bolts when they rots out o' the wreck where they +be." +</p> + +<p> +We had rowed down to Longo on the calm sea; we were on the sea, almost +in it, in so small a boat; and shorewards were the tide-swirls, the +jagged rocks, the high black cliffs. The relation of sea and land was +become reversed for us. The sea was no longer a thirsty menace, an +unknown waste. It was the land, the rocks and the cliffs, which +threatened hungrily. Night-fears, had there been any, would surely have +sprung out from the land. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A COD'S HEAD</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +We rowed into a bay whose wide-spreading arms were like an amphitheatre +of shadows. +</p> + +<p> +"Take thees yer oar," said Uncle Jake. "Wer's thic cod's head?" +</p> + +<p> +Everywhere in the boat, to judge by one's nose. He found it, hacked it, +then beat it with a pebble, and hacked again, and tore. From it came +two awful separate smells—one like that of a dissecting room, the +other like bad crab's inside, or like fearfully perverted cocoa, just +wetted—a sort of granulated stink that stopped one's breath. Beautiful +bait! +</p> + +<p> +"Now then, while I fixes the bait between the thirts," said Uncle Jake, +"yu paddle westward. Keep 'en straight, else if a bit of a breeze +comes, us'll never find the buoys." While I rowed very slowly, he flung +overboard first a buoy and then its net, a buoy and its net, till he +had hove the whole sixteen with about four boat's lengths between each. +The <i>plop</i> was echoed from the cliff, and as the nets sank the +sea-fire glittered green upon them. He drew on a ragged pair of oilskin +trousers, stationed himself on the starboard side of the stern-sheets, +and grasped the longer tiller. On account of the ebb tide and +consequent lay of the corks, we worked back, in reverse order, +eastwards. It was for me to row the boat up until the bow was just +inside the large buoy. Then Uncle Jake's directions, more or less +abbreviated, came fast one after another: +</p> + +<p> +<i>Back outside oar</i> (or <i>Pull inside oar</i>), to bring the bows +round towards the buoy. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Pull both oars</i>, to bring the boat up to the buoy. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Pull outside oar</i>, to bring the stern of the boat a nice striking +distance from the line between the buoy and the small corks. (Uncle +Jake strikes under and up with the tiller.) +</p> + +<p> +<i>Pull both oars</i>, while he hauls in the loose line. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Back both</i>, to stop the boat's way. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Back outside oar</i>, to keep the line just clear of the gunwale. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Stop</i>, while he hauls very slowly and stealthily at first, lest +prawns and lobsters jump out, then swiftly, raising his arms high above +his head, until the net is aboard. +</p> + +<p> +So, in single and even half strokes, with variations according to +current and wind, for all the sixteen buoys and nets. Whilst Uncle +Jake, on his part, dropped the prawns into a bag which hung from his +neck, flung the wild-crabs amidships, and the lobsters under the stern +seat, and hove out the net again a few yards from where it was at +first—I, on my part, had to spy the next buoy, a mere rocking blot on +the water, to find out how the line lay from it, and then to hold the +boat steady till he was ready with the tiller. After a time, one became +a little mazed, one's head ached with screwing it round to sight the +buoys, and his directions ceased so long as everything was going right. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MAKING THE ROUNDS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Very wonderful, even exhilarating was the silence and loneliness, the +feeling that ourselves only, of all the world, were in that beautiful +mysterious place. Had I had prayers to say, I should have said them, +sure that some sort of a God was brooding on the waters and suspicious +perhaps, at the back of my mind, that where the black cliffs upreared +themselves, there the devil was. +</p> + +<p> +After we had hauled and shot again the sixteenth net, Uncle Jake +counted one hundred and seventy odd prawns from his bag into the +basket. "Do 'ee see how whitish they be?" he asked. "They'm al'ays like +that in the dirty water after a gale. Lord, what a battering they poor +things must get when it blows on thees yer coast!" He picked over the +lobsters to see if any were saleable, but found only small +ones—cockroaches—that, as he said, "it don't do to let the bogie-man +[fishery inspector] glimpse.—An' I've a-catched," he added, "more than +five shill'orth o' fine lobsters in one round of the prawn-nets 'fore +they bloody men from the west'ard came up hereabout wi' their pots. Ah, +shrimpin' ain't what 't used to be!" +</p> + +<p> +We made three more rounds in that bay, then hauled all our nets into +the boat, rowed further west, and shot our nets round a submarine +ledge, the whereabouts of which Uncle Jake knew to a yard. A couple of +rounds there, and we brought up to the buoy of a lobster pot (for the +ebb tide, washing round the headland, kept on hurtling us out to sea), +had our supper, and waited. Prawns take longer to go into the nets +after a second round in the same water. +</p> + +<p> +A haziness that had been in the sky, strengthened into a lurry of +little cloudlets between us and the stars. "That's where 'tis going to +be," said Uncle Jake. "Easterly! Do 'ee feel this bit of a swell? Us +won't be here to-morrow night.—There! Did 'ee hear that? Eh?" +</p> + +<p> +Two waves gave forth a peculiar confidential chuckle, long drawn out +and very gentle, very fatigued—as if the sea were making some signal +to us; as if it wished to say that it was tired of ebbing and flowing. +The cliff shadow listened, I thought, immovable and pitiless, but I +fancy that I heard the cry of a bird a quarter of a mile to the +eastward. Sea life wakes up with the flow of the tide. I had forgotten +the gulls and the ravens; had forgotten the existence of all living +things except prawns, lobsters and wild-crabs. No more waves +chuckled.... "That's the low tide waves sure 'nuff—thic chuckle. +There's mostly three on 'em. An' I can al'ays hear the rattle of the +high tide waves tu—iss, even in a gale o' wind. What a rattle they +makes on the beach, to be sure! They fules o' visitors 'ould laugh at +'ee if yu was to tell 'em that—they've a-laughed at me—but 'tis true. +Yu've heard, an't 'ee?" +</p> + +<p> +The end buoy was troublesome to find. And in the middle of the round, I +rowed up to a shadow thinking to find a buoy, and there close beside +the boat, revealed as the swell sank, was a reef of rock, humped and +covered with seaweed which stood up on end as the water flowed +shallowly over the ledge. It was like a grisly great head, ages old, +immense, and of terrible aspect, heaving itself up through the sea at +us. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>UNCLE JAKE'S MATES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +With much careful working of the boat, we picked up the middle buoys +from the ledge, and hove them further to sea. Uncle Jake swore at the +reef, at the nets, at himself, at his luck. "<i>'Tis</i> a bloody crib! +Didn't think the tide was going to fall so far. This same happened the +very last time I was down yer wi' old Blimie—old Sublime, us calls +'en. 'Let's get out o' this!' he said. 'Leave the blasted nets an' +let's get out o' it quick!' But I 'ouldn't let 'en, not I—us had three +thousand shrimps thic night; an' he very nearly cried, he did. +'<i>Tis</i> some mates I've had for thees yer job. Most of 'em won't +come when they can pay the brewer any other way. <i>I'll</i> never come +out again wi' the last three on 'em, not if I starves for it. One of +'em went to sleep; t'other cuden' see the buoys; an' old Blimie was +blind and not willing neither. 'Wer be the cursed things?' he'd say. +'Back!' I'd say. 'Back oars! You'm on top o' it!' 'Well, I be backing, +bain't I?' he'd say, an' go on pulling jest the same. Then 'er said 'er +was ill and wanted to go home. <i>He</i> won't come no more, not if he +starves, an' me too. I won't hae 'en!" +</p> + +<p> +A ripple came down from the east. The sound of its <i>lap-lap-lap</i> +under the boat stole on one's ears sleepily, but it roused Uncle Jake +to quick action. "Do 'ee see thees little cockle on the water?" he +said. "Do 'ee feel the life o'it in the boat? Must get out of thees +yer, else we shan't never find the buoys." +</p> + +<p> +We picked up the buoys—those we had shifted out of line were hard to +find, for the stars were now all hidden by cloud—and a little breeze +followed the ripple from the east. Rowing along under the cliffs, even +inside some of the rocks, through passages that only Uncle Jake is sure +of, we caught the young flood tide. The north-easter, that blew out +freshly from the Seacombe valley, chilled us to the bone. +</p> + +<p> +Seacombe was asleep. No one was on the Front. We had to carry the nets +up from the water's edge to the seawall before our utmost straining +could drag the <i>Moondaisy</i> up the bank of shingle. For more than +an hour we hauled. +</p> + +<p> +When at last it was over, I brought Uncle Jake in house and made him a +cup of cocoa. We had been nine hours' rowing. Though he could have done +the same again, without food or rest, he looked a little haggard. It +seemed impossible to believe that the grey old man with disordered hair +and beard, clothed in rags and patches, sipping cocoa in a windsor +chair, was that same alert shadow who had been reckoning up life, so +humorously and wisely, in the darkness under the cliffs. He referred +again to the winter's pinch. It must mean that he has not enough money +put by from summer for the days coming, when even he will not be able +to find some odd job. Yet, as I know very well, when the pinch does +come he will go short and say nothing whatever to anybody. He will be +merely a shade more sarcastic. One of the children may come home saying +that 'thic Uncle Jake an't had half a pound of butter all this week,' +or that he has been in one of his passions with Aunt Jake for taking in +a loaf of bread without paying cash for it. He will bring out a +ha'penny from a little screw of newspaper to buy milk for his cats, and +he will take some crumbs to leave on dry rocks under the cliffs for the +robins that flutter after him there. "Poor things!" he'll say. And to +people he will still be saying what he thinks, fair or foul, gentle or +hard. To understand his sternness and his kindness, it needs to go with +him wrinkling in the sunshine and prawning in the dark. He is become +very like his beloved rocks and cliffs. He is, as one might say, a +voice for them, and his words and deeds are what one would expect their +words and deeds to be, did they not stand there, warm, sunny and +graciously coloured, or dark and stern, fronting the sea immovably, as +Uncle Jake fronts life. "Du <i>I</i> want to die?" he says when asked +his age. "Why, I'd like to live a thousand years!" +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +14 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>NARCOTICS AND STIMULANTS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Tony is singularly free from any craving either for narcotics or +stimulants. Most people I know, especially those who do brain work or +live in cities, are satisfied if they can strike a working balance +between the two. Granfer must have his glass of beer regularly, but +neither smokes nor drinks much tea; Uncle Jake snuffs and loves his +tea, but drinks no alcohol whatever; John Widger smokes heavily; and I +have never known Mrs Widger get up in the morning without her cup o' +tay. Tony, on the other hand, smokes, for politeness' sake, an +occasional cigarette when it is offered him, does not hanker after his +tea, and scarcely ever drinks alone. He gets drunk now and then, not +because he greatly wants to, but socially; because, when half-a-dozen +of them are drinking in rounds, 'What can a fellow du?' Even then he +often leaves untouched a glassful that has been ordered for him, though +all the while after his third or fourth glass, he may be asking other +men to 'drink up and hae another.' Drinking with him is an expression +of jollity, not the means of it. +</p> + +<p> +The Perkinses went at the end of last week into a jerry-built villa up +on land. To escape the brunt of moving in, probably, Perkins took Tony +to a football match at Plymouth. It was not so much that they drank a +great deal, as that they came home, singing, in a very overcrowded and +smoky railway carriage. "I s'pose I got exzited like," Tony says. He +was all right until they got out into the fresh air, and then ... +Perkins brought him in house and laid him along the passage. "Here's +your husband, Mrs Widger." Being rather afraid of Mrs Widger, because +she always speaks her mind, Perkins disappeared quickly. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>TONY ON DRINK</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +<i>In vino veritas</i>, no doubt. When Tony is drunk he becomes most +affectionate, and begins 'slatting things about'—not violently or +maliciously, but simply out of joyous devilment and a desire to feel +that he is doing something. Mrs Widger neither wept nor upbraided him. +"Yu silly gert fule!" she said. "Yu silly gert fule! Shut up, or yu'll +wake they chil'ern." +</p> + +<p> +"Be glad tu see yer Tony?" +</p> + +<p> +"G'out! Git yer butes off." +</p> + +<p> +Tony made the chairs skip round the room and thought he'd like to see +the table (with the lamp) upside down. The window curtains annoyed him. +Mrs Widger took steps. +</p> + +<p> +Luckily, she is not with child, or otherwise delicate, and can +therefore stand a deal of rough and tumble. She pushed him headlong +into a chair and took off his boots. (Those two, there alone, for Under +Town was asleep.) Then she shouldered him upstairs, like a heavy piece +of luggage, and laid him on their bed. Poor Tony was more than leery. +He swam. He moaned. He was sick. He could neither lie down nor get up. +"Sarve thee damn well right!" said Mam Widger. +</p> + +<p> +"<i>I</i> can't help o'it...." +</p> + +<p> +"<i>Yu can't help o'it!</i>" +</p> + +<p> +Between three and four in the morning, she went downstairs, relighted +the fire and made him and herself a cup o' tay. After that, not so very +long before daylight, they slept. +</p> + +<p> +To-day Tony is ill and subdued, if not repentant. He reckons he will do +the same again ("What chap don't, 'cept they mump-headed long-faced +beggars?"), but at present he turns from liquor; he always does for a +day and a half after 'going on the bust.' "Didn' ought never to drink +more'n one glass," he says; "no, n'eet none at all!" Seeing what it +would mean for the family if Tony took to drink, Mrs Widger is, and was +at the time, wonderfully calm and cheerful—how far from reliance in +herself, or from trust in Tony, is not plain. I asked her what she +would do if he became a drunkard and brought no money home. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh," she said carelessly, "I s'pose I should turn tu and get some work +to du and keep things going somehow." +</p> + +<p> +"Would you let him have any pocket-money?" +</p> + +<p> +"Ay, I 'spect I should—enough for his pint." +</p> + +<p> +There's not a shadow of doubt but she would do both. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +15 +</p> + +<p> +Tony has always been a man for the girls; so much so, and so naively, +that whatever he might do would seem quite innocent; as innocent as the +love-play of animals. Along the Front, of an evening, he calls out, +"How be 'ee, my dear?" to any girl he chooses, and perhaps takes her +arm for a few steps. Given half a chance, he snatches a playful kiss. +They never seem to turn rusty with him. He has the primitive quality of +knocking their conventionality to bits at one blow. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>FLIRTATIONS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Just before the Perkinses left, he turned out at five in the morning to +see if the high long tide was flowing up to the boats. At six he made +tea and went with it to bed again. When he came downstairs at eight +o'clock (in his pants, darning the seat of his trousers), Mrs Widger +and Mrs Perkins both had breakfasts frying on the fire. Mrs Widger, +very loud-voiced that morning, was packing the children off to school; +Mrs Perkins was bent over the pan, browning sausages. Tony crept up +behind her, seized her by the waist, and kissed her. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, you naughty man!" said Mrs Perkins, who was married out of a +drapery establishment and has the drapery style of talking to +perfection. "If my dear hubby knew...." +</p> + +<p> +"Tell him!" retorted Tony. "I be ready for 'en. I feels lively this +morning. I'll gie 'ee another if yu'll darn thees yer trousers for me. +Thic Mam 'Idger there won't du nort. You wuden' think I'd had two +nights o'it, wude 'ee? I went to bed last night, an' then I got up, +five o'clock, and 'cause there weren't nort doing I went to bed again +an' had an hour or an hour an' a half's more sleep." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, you sleepy man!" +</p> + +<p> +"I didn' want to sleep. I wanted the missis here to cuddle me, on'y her +'ouldn't. Her turned away from me that cold.... I went off to sleep. +An' when I woke up again, thinkin' her'd cuddle me then, her gave me a +kick an' got out bed. I never see'd ort like it. Her ain't what her +used to be, for all her ain't a bad li'l thing, thee's know." +</p> + +<p> +"G'out!" said Mrs Widger. "I be older—and wiser." +</p> + +<p> +"Don' know about that. I shall go into Plymouth an' git a nice li'l +girl there.... Oh, I've know'd plenty on 'em. All the li'l girls likes +ol' Tony." +</p> + +<p> +"I know they do," remarked Mrs Perkins sententiously, while Mrs Widger +laughed rather proudly. +</p> + +<p> +"Iss; us was to Plymouth once, an' a nice li'l girl wi' a white bow +roun' her neck came up an' spoke to me when I was a-looking into a shop +window, an' her said, 'I lives jest here,' an' I said, 'Do 'ee, my +dear? I'll be 'long in a minute....'" +</p> + +<p> +"Where was Mrs Widger then?" +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, her was 'bout ten yards in front." +</p> + +<p> +"Well?" +</p> + +<p> +"Iss; if her won't be nice to me when I wants her tu, I shall go into +Plymouth an' find out my li'l girl there...." +</p> + +<p> +"Garn then, yu fule! I can du wi'out 'ee. I shall hae thic divorce. +Thee's think, I s'pose, as I can't get 'long wi'out 'ee? Thee's much +mistaken!" +</p> + +<p> +"Well...." +</p> + +<p> +"Git 'long out wi' 'ee!" repeated Mrs Widger, laughing and very +proudly. "Git 'long out an' let me clear these yer breakfast things." +</p> + +<p> +"What have yu got for dinner, me dear? Then I'll remain with 'ee an' +not go out at all." +</p> + +<p> +"G'out!" +</p> + +<p> +Amid loud laughter, Tony snatched a kiss from both ladies, and pranced +out. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +16 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MRS WIDGER</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"'Tisn't no use to be jealous," Mrs Widger says. "I used to be a bit +taken that way once, but I ain't now, an' 'twuden' make no difference +if I was." Doubtless she is quite right, and she certainly succeeds in +never showing what jealousy she may feel when, for instance, she +catches sight of Tony strolling in through the Gut with his arm half +round another woman's waist, as his playful way is. If Tony speaks of +his first wife she does not, like most second wives, stop talking. If +she hears of a woman unhappily married, she usually dismisses the +affair with a "Well, her shuden't ha' married 'en: her must put up wi' +'en now her's got 'en." The goings-on of unmarried people do not easily +scandalise her. "I reckon," she says, "yu can du as yu like afore yu'm +married, but after that yu'm fixed." She is so confident of the +fastness of the marriage tie (it is, of course, much more indissoluble +for poor people who cannot travel, have no servants, and cannot afford +lawyers for divorce proceedings) that she can afford to give Tony +plenty of rope in small things. Her trust in his faithfulness is +absolute, and justified. She has him; he cannot get along without her; +she knows that. Her attitude is founded on experience and common-sense; +not on some abstract system of morality that never controlled men's +lives, and never will. +</p> + +<p> +When I used to look upon fishermen as picturesque common objects of the +seashore, I thought their womenfolk rather dreadful. Now, however, the +more I see of this household the more I admire Mrs Widger's management +of it. I know of few other women who could direct it better and with +less friction. Indeed, I am acquainted with no middle-class woman at +all who could direct any of these poor men's households as their own +wives so noisily and so cleverly do. Mrs Widger does not attempt to +gain her own way by sheer force and hardness, not even with the +children; she bends to every current; but she never breaks, and finally +prevails. Like most West-country people, she has more staying power +than visible energy. By going not straight over the hills, like a Roman +road, but round by the valleys and level paths, she arrives at her +journey's end just as quickly and with much less disturbance and +fatigue. She does nothing quite perfectly; neither cooking, mending, +cleaning nor child-rearing; but she does everything as well as is +practicable, as well as is advisable. Tony would often like things a +little better done, but if he had to do them they would be done a +little worse. Some people here greatly pride themselves on keeping +their homes spotlessly clean, and their front doors locked so that no +dirty boot shall soil the oilcloth in the passage. Mrs Widger says that +her house is for living in. Children run in and out of it, laughing and +shouting. +</p> + +<p> +In some respects, she and Tony remind one of a French bourgeois couple. +He has the sentiment, the expressed ideality, the sensitiveness. He +perceives a great deal, but perceives much of it vaguely. He seldom +makes up his mind—then unalterably. He is like the little man in +Blake's drawing, who stands at the foot of a long ladder reaching up to +the moon, and cries, "I want!" What he wants, he does not precisely +know. Summut or other. Mrs Widger, on the other hand, knows what she +wants very exactly; so exactly that she is content to bide her +opportunity. When they were married, Tony had neither boats nor gear. +He has them now. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A STEADY HEAD</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +How she keeps a steady head passes my understanding; at breakfast-time, +for example, when the boys are clamouring for their kettle-broth or +loudly demanding fish, or trying to sneak lumps of sugar; and the +girls, nearly late for school, are asking what she wants from the +butcher's or stores; and one or two of them require clean things, or +something darned, or have not washed their faces or combed out their +hair properly; and Tony's and my breakfasts are cooking; and the kettle +is boiling out or over; and Tony is asking her where he has left his +other guernsey, and everybody is talking nineteen to the dozen—and she +wants her own breakfast too. It is at such a moment that she displays +best her most characteristic gesture. +</p> + +<p> +Most people who work with a will, possess some gesture or movement +which is typical of, and sums up, the major part of their +activities—the gesture that sculptors and painters try to catch. To +lay out on home and family the earnings of a workman who is regularly +paid, calls for skill and care enough on the part of a wife who has no +reserve fund and must make the weekly accounts balance to within a few +ha'pence. But successfully to lay out, and to lay by, the earnings of a +man like Tony, whose family is large and whose money comes in with +extreme irregularity, requires a combination of forethought and +self-control which falls little short of genius. And it has to be done +on a cash basis, for debt would worry Tony out of his wits. The family +purse must necessarily be the centre, and the symbol, of Mrs Widger's +household activities; a matter to which she must give more thought than +to any other one thing. +</p> + +<p> +"Mabel, I want you to go out for me," she says. "Get me my purse." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>CHARACTERISTIC GESTURE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Standing, as a rule, by the dresser, she receives the purse into her +hand, opens it meditatively, looks in, pokes a ringer in, tips the +purse and peers between the coins as they fall apart; takes one or two +out and replaces them as if they fitted into slots. Then with a +wide-armed gesture, curiously commanding and graceful, she hands out to +the child perhaps a ha'penny. "Get me a ha'porth o' new milk, quick!" +</p> + +<p> +The purse is put away. +</p> + +<p> +So striking is the little ceremony, so symbolic, so able to stop our +chatter while we look, that we have nicknamed Mam Widger <i>The Purse +Bearer</i>. +</p> + +<p> +That is the name for her—Purse Bearer. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +17 +</p> + +<p> +Downstairs in the front room there are two or three photographs of +George, that he himself has sent home since that day he went off to the +Navy. The earliest shows him still boyish, sitting small, as it were, +and a little shy of his new uniform. In the latest, taken not long ago, +nor very long in point of time after the first, he is sitting bolt +upright, chest inflated, arms akimbo with a straight, level, almost +ferocious look in his eyes. He has apparently taken a measure of the +world outside Under Town, and is all the surer of his feet for having +stood up against greater odds and for having walked the slippery plank +of Navy regulations. "If you'm minded to run up against me," he seems +to be saying, "come and try; here I am." The two photographs suggest +the difference between a bird in winter and in the mating season. +George's uniform, in the later photograph, has become his spring +plumage. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>GEORGE HOME</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +When he sent word that he was coming home on leave, I was prepared for +a great change in him, but scarcely for the new George. He used to be +so like a cat on a sunny wall; used to lie along the stern seat of the +<i>Moondaisy</i> so lazy and content that only his ever-watchful eyes +held any expression. He was deeply sunburnt: scraggy in the neck; +strong and lissome, but not very smart. +</p> + +<p> +He is returned home no less strong and lissome, and exceedingly smart. +The sunburn is gone; indeed there's many a maiden would envy his +complexion; and his long stout neck, with the broadening bands of +muscle, would delight a sculptor. The alert expression, that used to be +more or less limited to his eyes, has spread, so to speak, over all his +face, over the whole of him and into all his movements. He is +organised; unified. In repose now, he would not be simply lazy; he +would be <i>being lazy</i>. His features, rather indeterminate of old, +have become curiously refined, almost delicate, almost supercilious (in +the pride of young strength), but not quite either. It is noticeable +generally that an orderly mental existence has great power to +regularise the features, and in so doing, to refine them. Hence perhaps +this refinement of feature in George; for if, in the effort to gain +promotion, he has been putting his heart into his work—the routine +work of his ship and the Naval barracks—it follows that his mental +existence must have been very orderly and regular. But how far the +total change in him is due to Navy discipline, and how far to his +arrival at mating time, one cannot say, neither probably could he. +Among working people nothing so smartens a young man and so quickly +sets him on his own feet as a little traffic with the maidens; +especially when he can't get his own way too easily. George, I gather, +is paying attention to two or three. +</p> + +<p> +Whereas his toilet used to consist of dragging on trousers, guernsey +and boots, and lacing up the last-named aboard his boat, if at all, it +is now a function delightful to witness as he stumps backwards and +forwards between the kitchen looking-glass and the scullery-sink. What +a washing and spluttering! what a boot-blacking and hair brushing! what +retouches and last glances into the glass! The cap comes off and is +replaced at a jauntier angle, a ribbon is tied again, the lanyard is +put just right, and George goes forth to a war that began before +battleships were thought of. One makes fun of his titivations, and +admires nevertheless. Pride o' life, I have heard it called. Hitching +one's wagon to a star is doubtless good; so is driving one's wagon +along mankind's track. Thank God we have still a deal of the monkey in +us. +</p> + +<p> +I should like to see how Master George would carry on the land campaign +if he had money to spare. That, however, he has not. The presents he +brought home for the whole family, as is customary, must have cost him +a good deal. He has had, too, a spell in the Naval barracks—which +means spending money on shore amusements instead of putting it by. And +as he has bought some civilian clothes on the instalment system, and +will have that to pay off, he cannot borrow much of his father or +mother. +</p> + +<p> +Being 'on his own' now, he does not, of course expect a supply of money +from his father, nor on the other hand does Tony try to force his +authority upon George. Whilst he was here, George met a few of his old +chums up in the Town, and about midnight he came home rather drunk. We +were all abed; he had to knock several times; and in the end Tony went +down to let him in. 'Twas a good opportunity for a quarrel that would +have wakened the whole Square. But Tony said nothing then. He saw +George safely to bed, and merely remarked next day in George's hearing, +that "'Tisn't gude to drink tu much if you can help o'it, specially +when yu'm young; besides, it costis tu much." George was very ashamed. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MRS WIDGER'S DIPLOMACY</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Mrs Widger it was who had the row over George's spree, but not with +George, and owing to her clever diplomacy it was hardly a row at all. +</p> + +<p> +Mabel rushed into the house at breakfast-time. +</p> + +<p> +"Mother, is George come home?" +</p> + +<p> +"Course he is. What next?" +</p> + +<p> +"Well, Lottie Rousdon says as he come'd home last night an' yu an' Dad +wuden' let 'en in. Drunk's a handcart, falling about, her says he was." +</p> + +<p> +"Tis a lie!" began Mrs Widger loudly. Then she appeared to think of +something; her eyes widened, and she spoke quietly. +</p> + +<p> +"Who told yu thic tale?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, May Rousdon jest as I was coming in now. Her stopped me an' asked +if what Lottie'd told her was true." +</p> + +<p> +"Yu go an' tell Lottie Rousdon that if she has a minute to spare when +she comes home this afternoon to clean herself [Lottie Rousdon is a day +servant], as mother'd like to see her. Don't yu"—this with rising +voice—"don't yu tell anything more'n that or I'll break your neck for +yu." +</p> + +<p> +Mabel rushed out full of importance. +</p> + +<p> +"The lying bitch!" remarked Mam Widger. +</p> + +<p> +Lottie Rousdon walked into the trap. She came in the early evening, +feathers flying, very innocent. She was in a strange house, not in the +Square or among her relatives. Mrs Widger was on her own ground. Both +went into the front room. +</p> + +<p> +"What for did yu—" we could not help hearing. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, I didn't, Mrs Widger; I'm sure I didn't——" +</p> + +<p> +"Yu did!" +</p> + +<p> +"Mabel," called Mrs Widger. "Go'n ask May Rousdon to kindly step this +way." +</p> + +<p> +May Rousdon came. +</p> + +<p> +"Who told yu what yu told Mabel about George, this morning? Did +<i>yu</i> make it up?" +</p> + +<p> +"'Twas Lottie told me, Mrs Widger." +</p> + +<p> +"There! if I didn't think.... Don't yu ever say such a wicked thing +again! Yu don' know what harm...." +</p> + +<p> +The parlour door was shut fast. A hubbub went on within. After a time, +Lottie, weeping, was led out of the house by her sister. +</p> + +<p> +"The lying bitch," Mrs Widger repeated. "I've a-give'd it to her. +Making up that tale so pat as if 'twas all true! That's the sort o' +thing they used to put about when Tony and me was first married, but I +fought 'em down, I did, an' I thought 'twas all stopped long ago. They +tried to make out as 'twas me drove George to sea. Nobody can't ever +say I haven't luked after Tony's first wife's children so well as I +have me own—but they <i>have</i> said it, all the same, an' I've up +an' give'd it to 'em 'fore now. Whenever I used to correct the +children, they'd only to run out o' the house an' they cude always find +someone to listen to 'em and say as I was cruel to 'em and God knows +what. One time, when I wasn't very well, I felt I cuden' put up wi' it +any longer. But I did. An' here I be, same's ever. Pretty times us used +to have, I can tell yu, when we was first married an' some of 'em put +my blood up!" +</p> + +<p> +I understand that she cursed several—literally kicked one or two—out +of the house; but now when anybody is ill, or anything has to be done, +she is the first person to be sent for; and when George said goodbye to +her at the station, he wept. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +18 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>IN THE BAR</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +I was in the Alexandra bar this evening, drinking bitter ale. Apart +from the new saloon counter, it is an old-fashioned place, full of +wooden partitions and corners and draughts. The incandescent light was +flickering dimly in the draught that the sea-wind drove through the +window and the front door. Seated around the fireplace or against the +painted partitions, and standing about in groups, were fishermen in +guernseys, ex-fishermen, some bluejackets, and some solid-looking men +who were pensioners or sailors in mufti. A couple of repulsive +lodging-house keepers (they eat too much that falls from the lodgers' +tables) were talking local politics with a foxy-faced young tradesman +of the semi-professional sort. The barman, who had had enough to drink, +was thumb-fingered, loud-voiced, hastily slow. Sometimes the sound of a +heavier wave than usual broke through the buzz of conversation, and +sometimes, when the conversation dropped, wave after wave could be +heard sweeping the shingle along the beach. +</p> + +<p> +A party of vagrant minstrels came to the front-door steps. They played +a comic song, and the voices within rose in defiance of the music, so +that when it stopped suddenly, they were surprised into silence. +</p> + +<p> +Up through that silence welled the opening notes of Schubert's +<i>Serenade</i>. Nobody spoke. The barman took up a glass cheerily. "My +doctor ordered me to take a little when I feel I need it," he said; and +was <i>hushed</i> down. Some edged towards the door, others sat back +with faces and pipes tilted up, and others gazed down at the floor. A +memory-struck, far-away look came into their eyes. Only the barman with +his glass, and the tradesman in his smart suit, seemed wholly +themselves. +</p> + +<p> +The <i>Serenade</i> ceased. None spoke. The light gave a great flicker. +"What the bloody hell!" exclaimed John Widger. The day-dreamers awoke, +as if from a light sleep. An everyday look came quickly into their eyes +and each one shifted in his seat. Some even shook themselves like dogs. +A joke was made about the woman who came in to collect pence, and the +conversation rose till nothing of the sea's noise could be heard. +</p> + +<p> +I realised with a shock that in four days I shall not be here, and when +I left the bar, I forgot entirely to say <i>Good-night</i>. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A GLIMPSE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +It was as if, for the moment, we had all been very intimate; as if we +had all gone an adventure together and had peeped over the edge of the +world. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +VIII +</p> + + +<p class="right"> +<span class="sc">Salisbury</span>,<br> +<i>January</i>. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +1 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>CONTRASTS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Chilliness—a social and emotional chilliness that can with difficulty +be defined or nailed down to any cause—is, above and below all, what +one feels on returning from a poor man's house into middle-class +surroundings. It is not unlike that chill with which certain forms of +metropolitan hospitality strike a countryman. He meets a London friend, +a former fellow-townsman, perhaps, who has migrated to London and whom +he has not seen for a year or two. "Glad to see you," says the +Londoner. "You must call on my wife before you go back. Her day is +Wednesday." Or, "You must come to dinner one evening. When are you +free? Next Tuesday? or Friday?" If the hospitality had begun forthwith, +and the countryman had been haled off, country fashion, to the very +next pot-luck meal, he would have had a pleasant adventure. It would +have been like old times. The former glow of friendship would have more +than revived. But the calculated invitation for a future date, the idea +that the countryman will like to call for a twenty minutes' chat on +generalities and a couple of cups of bad afternoon tea.... Though he +may understand that a multiplicity of engagements in London renders +this sort of thing convenient, he none the less feels a chill when it +is applied to himself, and usually cares little whether he go or not. +He becomes conscious of the desire to save trouble, which is at the +bottom of such calculations. Had the Londoner revisited the country, he +would have found old friends ready to upset all their arrangements for +the sake of entertaining him. The London hospitality is the 'better +done,' but country hospitality is warmer. Middle-class life runs +smoother than the poor man's, it is more arranged and in many ways +'better done,' and it is chillier precisely because, for smooth +running, the warmer human impulses, both good and bad, must be +repressed. 'Something with a little love and a little murder' in it, +was what the illiterate old woman wanted to learn to read. It is what +we all want in our hearts, much more than smooth running and +impenetrable uniform politeness. +</p> + +<p> +Down at Seacombe we warm our hands, so to speak, at the fire of life; +hunger lurks outside, and the fire is dusty and needs looking after; +but it glows, and we sit together round it. Here at Salisbury, +throughout the social house, we have an installation of hot-water +pipes; they may be hygienic (which is doubtful), and they are little +trouble to keep going; but they don't glow. Give me the warmth that +glows, and let me get near the heart of it. +</p> + +<p> +Voices are often raised in Under Town and quarrels are not infrequent, +but the underlying affections are seldom doubted, and when they do rise +to the surface, there they are, visible, unashamed. 'Each for himself, +and devil take the hindmost,' is more admired in theory than followed +in practice. 'Each for himself and the Almighty for us all,' is Tony's +way of putting it. The difference lies there. +</p> + +<p> +My acquaintances here are well off for the necessities of life. No one +is likely to starve next week. Nevertheless, they are full of worry, +and by restraining their expressions of worry so as not to become +intolerable to the other worriers, they make themselves the more lonely +and increase their panic of mind. They are afraid of life. +</p> + +<p> +At Seacombe, though there were not a fortnight's money in the house, we +lived merrily on what we had. In Tony's "Summut 'll sure to turn up if +yu be ready an' tries to oblige" there is more than philosophy; there +is race tradition, the experience of generations. The Fates are +treacherous; therefore, of course, they like to be trusted, and the +gifts they reserve for those that trust them are retrospective. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>INSTANCES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +All of us at Tony's wanted many things—a pension, enough to live on, +work, a piano, or only 'jam zide plaate'—God knows what we didn't +want! But the things that men haven't, and want, unite them more than +those they have. <i>I want</i> is life's steam-gauge; the measure of +its energy. It is the ground-bass of love, however transcendentalised, +and whether it give birth to children or ideas. <i>I have</i> is +stagnant. And <i>I am afraid</i> is the beginning of decay. +</p> + +<p> +It is still <i>I want</i>, rather than <i>I am afraid</i>, that spurs +the poor man on. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +2 +</p> + +<p> +For his first marriage and towards setting up house, Tony succeeded in +saving twenty shillings. He gave it to his mother in gold to keep +safely for him, and the day before the wedding, he asked for it. "Yu +knows we an't got no bloody sovereigns," said his father. It had all +been spent in food and clothes for the younger children. So Tony went +to sea that night and earned five shillings. A shilling of that too he +gave to his mother; then started off on foot for the village where his +girl was living and awaiting him. She had a little saved up: he knew +that, though he feared it might have gone like his. They were married, +however; they fed, rejoiced, and joked; and 'for to du the thing proper +like,' they hired a trap to drive them home. With what money was left +they embarked on married life, and their children made no unreasonable +delay about coming. "Aye!" says Tony, "I'd du the same again—though +'twas hard times often." +</p> + +<p> +Before I left Seacombe I asked a fisherman's wife, who was expecting +her sixth or seventh child, whether she had enough money in hand to go +through with it all; for I knew that her husband was unlikely to earn +anything just then. "I have," she said, "an' p'raps I an't. It all +depends. If everything goes all right, I've got enough to last out, but +if I be so ill as I was wi' the last one, what us lost, then I an't. +Howsbe-ever, I don't want nort now. Us'll see how it turns out." She +went on setting her house in order, preparing baby linen and making +ready to 'go up over,' with perfect courage and tranquillity. When one +thinks of the average educated woman's fear of childbed, although she +can have doctors, nurses, anæsthetics and every other alleviation, the +contrast is very great, more especially as the fisherman's wife had +good reason to anticipate much pain and danger, in addition to the +possibility of her money giving out. +</p> + +<p> +Those are not extraordinary instances, chosen to show how courageous +people can be sometimes; on the contrary, they are quite ordinary +illustrations of a general attitude among the poor towards life. To +express it in terms of a theory which in one form or another is +accepted by nearly all thinkers—the poor have not only the <i>Will to +Live</i>, they have the <i>Courage to Live</i>. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE COURAGE TO LIVE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +On the whole, they possess the <i>Courage to Live</i> much more than +any other class. And they need it much more. The industrious +middle-class man, the commercial or professional man, works with a +reasonable expectation of ending his days in comfort. He would hardly +work without. But the poor man's reasonable expectation is the +workhouse, or some almost equally galling kind of dependency. The +former may count himself very unlucky if after a life of work he comes +to destitution; the latter is lucky if he escapes it. Yet the poor man +works on, and is of at least as good cheer as the other one. If he can +rub along, he is even happy. He is, I think, the happier of the two. +</p> + +<p> +The more intimately one lives among the poor, the more one admires +their amazing talent for happiness in spite of privation, and their +magnificent courage in the face of uncertainty; and the more also one +sees that these qualities have been called into being, or kept alive, +by uncertainty and thriftlessness. Thrift, indeed, may easily be an +evil rather than good. From a middle-class standpoint, it is an +admirable virtue to recommend to the poor. It helps to keep them off +the rates. But for its proper exercise, thrift requires a special +training and tradition. And from the standpoint of the essential, as +opposed to the material, welfare of the poor, it can easily be +over-valued. Extreme thrift, like extreme cleanliness, has often a +singularly dehumanising effect. It hardens the nature of its votaries, +just as gaining what they have not earned most frequently makes men +flabby. Thrift, as highly recommended, leads the poor man into the +spiritual squalor of the lower middle-class. It is all right as a means +of living, but lamentable as an end of life. If a penny saved is a +penny earned, then a penny earned by work is worth twopence. +</p> + +<p> +<i>The Courage to Live</i> is the blossom of the <i>Will to Live</i>—a +flower far less readily grown than withered. It might be argued that +since apprehensiveness implies foresight, the poor man's <i>Courage to +Live</i> is simply his lack of forethought. In part, no doubt, it is +that. But he does think, slowly and tenaciously, as a cuttlefish grips. +He foresees pretty plainly the workhouse; and he has the courage to +face its probability, and to go ahead nevertheless. His reading of life +is in some ways very broad, his foothold very firm; for it is founded +closely on actual experience of the primary realities. He looks +backwards as well as forwards; his fondness and memory for anecdote is +evidence of how he dwells on the past; instead of comparing an +occurrence with something in a book, he recalls a similar thing that +happened to So-and-so, so many years ago, you mind.... He knows vaguely +(and it is our vaguer knowledge which shapes our lives) that only by a +succession of miracles a long series of hair's-breadth escapes and +lucky chances, does he stand at any moment where he is; and he doesn't +see why miracles should suddenly come to an end. Hence his active +fatalism, as opposed to the passive Eastern variety. In Tony's opinion, +"'Tis better to be lucky than rich." I have never heard him say that +fortune favours the brave. He assumes it. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +3 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>INTELLECTUAL TYRANNIES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +As one grows more democratic in feeling, as one's faith in the people +receives shock after shock, yet on the whole brightens—so does one's +mistrust of the so-called democratic programmes increase. One becomes +at once more dissatisfied and less, more reckless and much more +cautious. One sees so plainly that the three or four political parties +by no means exhaust the political possibilities. The poor, though +indeed they have the franchise, remain little more than pawns in the +political game. They have to vote for somebody, and nobody is prepared +to allow them much without a full return in money or domination. They +pay in practice for what theoretically is only their due. Justice for +them is mainly bills of costs. The political fight lies still between +their masters and would-be masters; not so much now, perhaps, between +different factions of property-owners as between the property-owners +and the intellectuals. Out of the frying-pan into the fire seems the +likely course; for the intellectuals, if they have the chance, enslave +the whole man; they are logical and ruthless. The worst tyrannies have +been priestly tyrannies, whether of Christians, Brahmins or negro +witch-doctors; and those priests were the intellectuals of their time. +I wonder when we shall have a party of intellectuals content to find +out the people's ideals and to serve them faithfully, instead of trying +to foist their own ideals upon the people. +</p> + +<p> +Law-makers, however, will probably continue to work for the supposed +benefit of the people rather than on the people's behalf; and equally, +the supposed welfare of the people will continue to be the handiest +political weapon; for the property-owning, articulate classes are +better able to prevent themselves being played with. To those two facts +one's political principles must be adjusted. The articulate classes, +moreover, are actually so little acquainted with the inner life of the +poor that there is no groundwork of general knowledge upon which to +base conclusions, and it is impossible to do more than speak from one's +own personal experience. I don't mind confessing that, though I should +prefer justice all round, yet, if injustice is to be done—as done it +must be no doubt—I had rather the poor were not the sufferers. There +is no reason to believe that present conditions cannot be bettered—to +believe, with Dr Pangloss, <i>que tout est au mieux dans ce meilleur +des mondes possibles</i>. I have found that to grow acquainted with the +class that is the chief object of social legislation is to see more +plainly the room for improvement, and also to see how much better, how +much sounder, that class is than it appeared to be from the outside: +how much might be gained, of material advantage especially, and at the +same time how much there is to be lost of those qualities of character +which have been acquired through long training and by infinite +sacrifice. To learn to care for the poor, for their own sake, is to +fear for them nothing so much as slap-dash, short-sighted social +legislation. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE WILL TO LIVE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The man matters more than his circumstances. The poor man's <i>Courage +to Live</i> is his most valuable distinctive quality. Most of his +finest virtues spring therefrom. Any material progress which tends to +diminish his <i>Courage to Live</i>, or to reduce it to mere <i>Will to +Live</i>, must prove in the long run to his and to the nation's +disadvantage. And the <i>Courage to Live</i>, like other virtues, +diminishes with lack of exercise. Therefore every material advance +should provide for the continued, for an even greater, exercise and +need of the <i>Courage to Live</i>. If not, then the material advance +is best done without. +</p> + +<p> +That is the main constructive conclusion to be drawn. Somewhat akin to +it is another conclusion of a more critical nature. +</p> + +<p> +In Nietzsche's <i>Beyond Good and Evil</i> there is an apophthegm to +the effect that, "Insanity in individuals is something rare—but in +groups, parties, nations, and epochs it is the rule." And whilst, on +the one hand mental specialists have been extending the boundaries of +insanity to the point of justifying the popular adage that everyone is +a bit mad, they have, on the other hand, tended to narrow down the +difference between sanity and its reverse until it has become almost +entirely a question of mental inhibition, or self-control. +</p> +<div class="blockquote"> +<p> +The highest aim of Mental Hygiene should be to increase the power of +mental inhibition amongst all men and women. Control is the basis of +all law and the cement of every social system among men and women, +without which it would go to pieces.... <i>Sufficient power of +self-control should be the essence and test of sanity.</i><a href="#note20" name="noteref20"><sup>20</sup></a> +</p> +</div> +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>SOCIAL HYGIENE</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +It is too gratuitously assumed by law-makers (<i>i.e.</i> agitators for +legislation as well as legislators) that the poor man is woefully +deficient in inhibition and must be legislated for at every turn. +Because, for instance, he furnishes the police courts with the majority +of 'drunks and disorderlies,' he is treated as a born drunkard, to be +sedulously protected against himself, regardless of such facts as (1) +there is more of him to get drunk, (2) he prefers 'going on the bust' +to the more insidious dram-drinking and drugging, (3) he has more cause +to get drunk, (4) he gets drunk publicly, (5) tied-house beer and cheap +liquors stimulate to disorderliness more than good liquor. The truth is +that the poor have a great deal of self-restraint, quite as much +probably as their law-makers; but it is exercised in different +directions and, possibly, is somewhat frittered away in small +occasions. The poor man has so much more bark than bite. He fails to +restrain his cuss-words for example—but then cuss-words were invented +to impress fools. There is much in his life that would madden his +law-makers, and <i>vice versa</i>. If control is the cement of every +social system and if it is the highest aim of mental hygiene, it +follows that control should be the highest aim of legislation and +custom, which together make up social hygiene. And—always remembering +that control is of all virtues the one which strengthens with use and +withers with disuse—every piece of new legislation should be most +carefully examined as to its probable effect on the self-control of the +people. Control, in short should be the paramount criterion of new +legislation. A proximate advantage, unless it be a matter of life and +death, is too dearly purchased by an ultimate diminution of +self-control. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +4 +</p> + +<p> +Since the Industrial Revolution and rise of the press, the middle-class +has become more and more the real law-maker. The poor have voted +legislators into power; the upper class in the main has formally made +the laws; but the engineering of legislation has been, and is, the work +of the middle class. And the amusing and pathetic thing is that the +middle class has used its power to try to make other classes like +itself. That it has succeeded so badly is largely due to the fact that +the poor man is not simply an undeveloped middle-class man. The +children at Seacombe showed true childish penetration in treating a +<i>gentry-boy</i> as an animal of another species: the poor and the +middle class are different in kind as well as in degree. (More +different perhaps than the poor and the aristocrat). Their +civilizations are not two stages of the same civilization, but two +civilizations, two traditions, which have grown up concurrently, though +not of course without considerable intermingling. To turn a typical +poor man into a typical middle-class man is not only to develop him in +some respects, and do the opposite in others; it is radically to alter +him. The civilization of the poor may be more backward materially, but +it contains the nucleus of a finer civilization than that of the middle +class. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>TWO CIVILIZATIONS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The two classes possess widely dissimilar outlooks. Their morale is +different. Their ethics are different.<a href="#note21" name="noteref21"><sup>21</sup></a> Middle class people +frequently make a huge unnecessary outcry, and demand instant +unnecessary legislation because they find among the poor conditions +which would be intolerable to themselves but are by no means so to the +poor. And again, the benevolent frequently accuse the poor of great +ingratitude because, at some expense probably, they have pressed upon +the poor what they themselves would like, but what the poor neither +want nor are thankful for. The educated can sometimes enter fully, and +even reasonably, into the sorrows of the uneducated, but it is seldom +indeed that they can enter into their joys and consolations. +</p> + +<p> +Broadly speaking, the middle-class is distinguished by the utilitarian +virtues; the virtues, that is, which are means to an end; the +profitable, discreet, expedient virtues: whereas the poor prefer what +Maeterlinck calls 'the great useless virtues'—useless because they +bring no apparent immediate profit, and great because by faith or +deeply-rooted instinct we still believe them of more account than all +the utilitarian virtues put together.<a href="#note22" name="noteref22"><sup>22</sup></a> +</p> + +<p> +The poor, one comes to believe firmly, if not interfered with by those +who happen to be in power, are quite capable of fighting out their own +salvation. A clear ring is what they want—the opportunity for their +'something in them tending to good' to develop on its own lines. (When +I say 'a clear ring' I do not mean that one side should have seconds +and towels provided and that the other side should be left with +neither.) That their culture, so developed, will be different from our +present middle-class culture, is certain; that it will be superior is +probable. The middle class is in decay, for its reproductive instincts +are losing their effective intensity, and it is afraid of having +children; its culture, that it grafted on the old aristocratic stem, +must decay with it. When the culture derived from the lower classes is +ready to be grafted in its turn upon the old stem it is possible that +mankind's progress will go backwards a little to find its footing, and +will then take one of its great jumps forward. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +5 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE SOCIO-POLITICAL PROBLEM</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The socio-political problem turns out, on ultimate analysis, to be a +wide restatement of the old theological Problem of Pain. Suffering does +not necessarily make a fine character, but the characters that we +recognise as fine could not, apparently, have been so without +suffering. It is possible to say, "I have suffered, and though I am +scarred and seared, yet I know that on the whole I am the better for +that suffering. I do not now wish that I had not had that suffering. I +even desire that those I love shall suffer so much as they can bear, +that their conquest may be the greater, their joys the fuller, and +their life the more intense." Nevertheless, the very next moment, the +same man will try by every means possible to avoid suffering for +himself and for those he loves. That is the dualism which dogs humanity +in the mass no less than in the individual. That lies at the core of +domestic politics. But it may be that the part of our nature which +finds reason to be grateful for past suffering is higher than that part +which seeks to avoid it in the future. +</p> + +<p> +Waste of the benefits of suffering is waste indeed. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +IX +</p> + + +<p class="right"> +<span class="sc">Seacombe</span>,<br> +<i>December</i>. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +1 +</p> + +<p> +We hired a drosky—one of the little light landaus that they use with a +single horse in this hilly district—and thus we came down from the +station. On the box were the coachman (grinning), a cabin trunk, a +portmanteau, a gaping gladstone bag, and a rug packed with sweaters and +boots. On the front seat, a large parcel of books, a typewriter, a +dispatch case, a grubby moon-faced little friend of Tommy's, Tommy +himself, and Jimmy. On the back seat, Straighty, Dane and myself. The +small boy stood up on the seat, and Dane squatting on his haunches, +overtopped us all. +</p> + +<p> +Down the hill we drove, swerving, wobbling, laughing—a May party in +leafless winter. Dane, in his efforts to lick the children's faces, +tumbled off his perch. We helped him back to his seat amid a chorus of +happy screams. The grubby boy was just too astonished to cry, just too +proud of travelling in a carriage. He screwed up his face—and +unscrewed it again. Every now and then Tommy sat back as far as he +could from the disorder, the collection of jerking arms and legs, in +order to adjust the Plymouth spectacles, of which he is so proud, on +his small pug nose. As we passed the cross-roads, Straighty was trying +to snatch a kiss. While we drove along the Front, the children waved +their hands over the sides of the drosky, and shouted with delight. +'Twas a Bacchanal with laughter for wine. The Square turned out to +witness our arrival. "Her's come!" the kiddies cried. Dane leapt out +first, found a rabbit's head and bolted it whole. The rest of us +scrambled out. The luggage was piled up in the passage. Hastening in +his stockinged feet (he had been putting away an hour) to say that he +was on the point of coming up to station, Tony bruised a toe and barked +a shin. But it was no time to be savage. I wonder where else the two +shillings I paid for the drosky would have purchased so much delight. +Or rather, the delight was in ourselves, in the children; the two +shillings served only to unlock it. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>CHILDREN</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +What precisely there is of difference between these children and those +of the middle and upper classes has always puzzled me. That there is a +difference I feel certain. A few years ago, when I had so much to do +with the boys and girls of a high school, they liked me pretty well, I +think, and trusted me, but they did not take to me, nor I very greatly +to them. They went about their business, and I about mine. If I invited +them for a walk, they came gladly, not because it was a walk with me, +but because I knew of interesting muddy places, and where to find +strange things. Their manners to me were always good: good manners +smoothed our intercourse. But in no sense were our lives interwoven. We +were side-shows, the one to the other. I was content that it should be +so, and they were too. +</p> + +<p> +Here, on the other hand, my difficulty is to get rid of the children +when I wish to go out by myself. They follow me out to the Front, and +meet me there when I return, running towards me with shouting and arms +upraised, tumbling over their own toes, and taking me home as if I were +a huge pet dog of theirs. "Where be yu going?" they ask, and, "Where yu +been?" Jimmy regards me as a fixture. "When yu goes away for two or +dree days," he says, "I'll write to 'ee, like Dad du." I cross the +Square, and some child, lolling over the board across a doorway, laughs +to me shrilly and waves its arms. If by taking thought, I could send +such a glow to the hearts of those I love, as that child, without +thinking, sends to mine.... But I cannot. I can only wave a hand back +to the child, and be thankful and full-hearted. Often enough I wish I +could have a piano and find out whether my fingers will still play +Chopin, Beethoven, and Bach; often I hanker after a sight of a certain +picture or a certain statue in the Louvre or Luxembourg, for a concert, +a theatre, a right-down good argument on some intellectual point, or +for the books I want to read and never shall. Yet, all in all, I am +never sorry for long. This children's babble and laughter, these +simple, commonplace, wonderful affections, are a hundred times worth +everything I miss. +</p> + +<p> +It is not that I buy the children bananas or give them an infrequent +ha'penny. When bananas and ha'pence are scarce, their love is no less. +It is not that I am always good-tempered and jolly. Sometimes I snap +unmercifully, so that they look at me with scared, inquiring eyes. It +is not that they are always well-behaved. Frequently they are very +naughty indeed. The causes of our sympathy lie deeper. +</p> + +<p> +They are more naïve than the children who are in process of being +well-educated; more independent and also more dependent. They feel more +keenly any separation from those they love; they cry lustily if their +mother disappears only for an hour or two; and nevertheless they can +fend for themselves out and about as children more carefully nurtured +could never do. Less able to travel by themselves, they do travel +alone, and in the end quite as successfully. They make more mistakes +and retrieve them better. Affection with them more rapidly and frankly +translates itself into action. They laugh quickly, cry quickly, swear +quickly. "Yu'm a fule!" they rap out without a moment's hesitation; and +I suppose I am, else they wouldn't want to say so. Perhaps I overvalue +the physical manifestations of love, but if a child will take my hand, +or climb upon my knee, or kiss me unawares, then to certainty of its +affection is added a greater contentment and a deeper faith. The peace +of a child that sleeps upon one's shoulder, is given also to oneself. +The appurtenances of love mean much to me; nearness, warmth, caresses. +But I cannot make the advances; I was bred in a different school where, +though frankness was encouraged, <i>naïveté</i> was repressed; and I am +the more grateful to these children for taking me in hand—for being +able to do so. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>MANNERS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Tommy has returned from the Plymouth Eye Infirmary much quietened down +in many respects and, as most people would say, much better mannered. +He is neater and a better listener to conversation. He puts his shoes +under the table, does not throw them. But he has brought back also some +of the nurses' exclamations of surprise—"Oh, I say!" "Not I!" "You +don't say so!" "What idiocy!" and the like. No doubt those expressions +sounded quite proper among the nurses, but on Tommy's lips they seem +curiously more vulgar than his natural and rougher expletives. It is, +besides, as if one were eavesdropping outside the nurses' common room. +</p> + +<p> +Much of the charm of these children, and of the grown-ups too, lies in +the fact that, apart from a few points on which etiquette is very +strict, they have no manners. I don't mean that they are bad-mannered; +quite the contrary; what I mean is that their manners are not codified. +Having no rules for behaviour under various circumstances, they must on +each occasion act according to their kindliness and desire to please, +or the reverse. They must go back to the first principles of manners. +What they are, that they appear. What they feel at the moment, that +they show. The kind man or child is kindly; the brutal or spiteful by +nature are brutal or spiteful in manner. Elsewhere, among people of +breeding, manners make the man—and hide him. Here, the man makes his +own manners, and in so doing still further reveals himself. +</p> + +<p> +I have known a professional man who was rather well-spoken of for his +good manners, fail lamentably so soon as he found himself in +surroundings not his own. His code of manners did not apply there, and +outside his code he had no manners. He was excessively rude. He showed +at once that his customary good manners were founded on rules well +learnt, and not on any real consideration for other people's feelings. +The incredible impertinence of clergymen and district visitors +furnishes plenty of cases in point. Their manners, no doubt, are pretty +good among themselves. Yet it is a common saying here, "What chake they +gentry've got!" A 'district lady' entered Mrs Stidson's cottage without +knock or warning, just when Mrs Stidson was cleaning up and wanted no +visitors of any sort. "What's the matter with your eye?" asked the +district lady. Mrs Stidson refused to answer. ("Untidy, intractable +woman!") But a neighbour upspoke and said, "Tis her husband, mam, as +have give'd her a black eye." At which the district lady exclaimed, "My +good woman, why don't you leave him. You <i>ought</i> to leave him—at +once!" Mrs Stidson has a number of young children. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>TONY'S FOOT IN IT</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +It might have been expected, on the other hand, when Tony and myself +went on holiday up-country, stayed at a largish much-upholstered hotel, +and dined out several times as he had never done before, that he would +have been like a fish out of water, very awkward, and would have +committed a number of bad <i>faux pas</i>. Nothing of the sort. He was +nervous, certainly, and the numerous knives, forks and glasses somewhat +confused him at first. But Tony's good manners are not codified. He is +sensitive, kindly, desirous of pleasing, quick to observe. On that +basis, he invented for himself, according to the occasion, the manners +he had not been taught. At the same time he remained himself. And he +was a complete success. Nobody had any reason to blush on Tony's +behalf. Except once; when he remarked to some ladies after dinner that +he found Londoners very nice and free-like; that a pretty young lady +had stopped him in the Strand the evening before, and had called him +Percy; that he hadn't had time to tell her she'd made a mistake, and +that, in fact, he might have knowed her tu Seacombe, only he didn't +recollect. +</p> + +<p> +There was a bad pause. +</p> + +<p> +Tony doesn't think ill of anybody without cause. <i>Honi soit qui mal y +pense</i> might very well be <i>his</i> motto. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +2 +</p> + +<p> +News has come along from Plymouth that the boats there have fallen in +with large shoals of herring. The air here has since been charged with +excitement—the excitement of men who earn their livelihood by gambling +with the sea. The drifters have fitted out. Most of the boats are up +over—lying on the sea wall—but a few days ago many busy blue men slid +the big brown drifters down their shoots to the beach. Looking along, +one saw a couple of men standing in each drifter and, with the +leisurely haste of seamen, drawing in their nets. It gave a peculiar +savour, a hopeful animation, to the blank wintry sea. It was as if the +spring had come to us human beings prematurely, before it was ready to +seize on nature. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>ON THE CLIFFS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Yesterday afternoon I felt too unwell to lend a hand in shoving off the +boats. So I climbed to the top of the East Cliff. The air was cool and +still—so still that all the Seacombe smoke hung in the valley and +drifted slowly to seawards and faded there. While the sun was setting +behind a bank of sulky dull clouds, some woolpacks, faintly outlined in +white against the grey, rose almost imperceptibly in the western sky. +Everything, the sea itself, seemed very dry. Nothing moved on the +cliffs, except some small birds which flittered homelessly among the +black and twisted burnt gorse. They were very tiny and pitiful against, +or indeed amid, the solemn gathering of the great slow clouds. On +looking down from the edge of the cliff, a slight mistiness of the air +gave one the impression that there was, lying level above the sea, a +sheet of glass that dulled the sound of the water yet allowed one to +discern every half-formed ripple, and even the purple of the rocks +beneath. Five hundred feet below and a quarter of a mile out, were +three boats. They also, like the birds, seemed pitifully tiny. But, +unlike the birds, they did not seem purposeless. It was evident they +were moving, though one could not see rowers, oars, or splashes, for +they progressed in short jumps and above the dulled rattle of a billow +breaking on the pebbles, the faint click-thud of oars between +thole-pins was plainly audible. I had an odd fancy that the six men +were rowing through immensity, into eternity, to meet God; and that +they would so continue rowing, eternally. +</p> + +<p> +This morning, very early, the crackle of burning wood in the kitchen +fireplace awoke me. Then I heard the sea roaring; then Tony's bare feet +on the stairs. "Wind's backed an' come on to blow," he said. "They've +a-had to hard up an' urn for it. Two on 'em's in, an' one have a-losted +two nets. I told 'em 'twasn't vitty when they shoved off. 'Tis blowing +hard. I be going out along to see w'er t'other on 'em's in eet." +</p> + +<p> +The sea was angry, the moon obscure. The dead-asleep town stood up +motionless before the madly-living breakers. It seemed as if a horrible +fight was in progress; loud rage and dumb treachery face to face in the +semi-darkness; and between the livelong combatants, little men ran to +and fro, peering out to sea. +</p> + +<p> +Presently the third boat ran ashore. Its bellied sail hid everything +from us who waited at the water's edge. It was hoisted on a high wave, +and cast on land. The sea did not want it then. The sea spewed it up. +The sea can afford to wait, even until the clean bright little town is +a ruin on a salt marsh. +</p> + +<p> +Returning in house, we made hot tea, and laughed. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +3 +</p> + +<p> +We had, as it were, said <i>Good-Night</i> to the town, though it was +only half-past three in the afternoon. Most lazy we must have looked as +we sailed off to the fishing ground with a light fair wind, NNW. John's +young muscular frame was leaning against the mainmast, like a +magnificent statue dressed for the moment in fishermen's rig. Tony aft +was lounging across the tiller. He fits the tiller, for he is older and +bent and his eyes are deeply crowsfooted with watching. Both of them +showed the same splendid contrast of navy-blue jerseys against sea eyes +and spray-stung red and russet skins. I was lying full length along the +midship thwart. We lopped along lazily, about three knots to the hour. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>HERRING DRIFTING</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +As we lounged and smoked, each of us sang a different song, more or +less in tune. It sounded not unmelodious upon the large waters. At +intervals we asked one another where the 'gert bodies of herrings' had +gone off to. Eastwards, westwards, to the offing, or down to the bottom +to spawn? +</p> + +<p> +So near the land we were, yet so far from it in feeling. There, to the +NE. was the little town, sunlit and brilliantly white, with the church +tower rising in the middle and the heather-topped cloud-capped hills +behind. There around the bay, were the red cliffs, crossed by deep +shadows and splotched with dark green bushes. The land was there. We +were to sea. The water, which barely gurgled beneath the bows of the +drifter, was rushing up the beaches under the cliffs with a +myriad-sounding rattle. Gulls, bright pearly white or black as +cormorants, according as the light struck them, were our only +companions. The little craft our kingdom was—twenty-two foot long by +eight in the beam,—and a pretty pickle of a kingdom! +</p> + +<p> +Mixed up together in the stern were spare cork buoys, rope ends, sacks +of ballast and Tony. Midships were the piled up nets and buoys. For'ard +were more ballast bags and rope ends, some cordage, old clothes, sacks, +paper bags of supper, four bottles of cold tea, two of paraffin oil and +one of water, the riding lamp and a very old fish-box, half full of +pebbles, for cooking on. All over the boat were herring scales and +smelly blobs of roe. It's sometime now since the old craft was scraped +and painted. +</p> + +<p> +But the golden light of the sunset gilded everything, and the probable +catch was what concerned us. +</p> + +<p> +We chose our berth among the other drifters that were on the ground. We +shot two hundred and forty fathom of net with a swishing plash of the +yarn and a smack-smack-splutter of the buoys. We had our supper of +sandwiches and tatie-cake and hotted-up tea. +</p> + +<p> +"Can 'ee smell ort?" asked John sniffing out over the bows. +</p> + +<p> +"Herring!" said I. "I can smell 'em plainly." +</p> + +<p> +"Then there's fish about." +</p> + +<p> +Tony however remarked the absence of birds, and declared that the water +didn't look so fishy as when they had their last big haul. "They +herrings be gone east," he repeated. +</p> + +<p> +"G'out! What did 'ee come west for then? I told yu to du as yu was +minded, an' yu did, didn' 'ee? Us'll haul up in a couple o' hours an' +see w'er us got any." +</p> + +<p> +We didn't turn in. We piled on clothes and stayed drinking, smoking, +chatting, singing—a boat-full of life swinging gently to the nets in +an immense dark silence, an immense sea-whisper. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>HAULING IN THE NETS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +About nine o'clock we hauled in for not more than nine dozen of fish. +The sea-fire glimmered on the rising net, glittered in the boat, and +then, with an almost painful suddenness, snuffed out. "They be so full +as eggs," said John every minute or two, holding out fish to Tony, who +felt them and answered, "Iss, they'm no scanters [spawned or undersized +fish]. <i>They</i> bain't here alone." +</p> + +<p> +Nets inboard, we rowed a little east of another boat, to shoot a second +time. John said, "Hoist the sail, can't 'ee." Tony said, "What's the +need?" +</p> + +<p> +Before eleven we were foul of the other boat's nets and had again to +haul in. Tony puffed and panted with the double weight; John +disentangled the mesh and swore. +</p> + +<p> +"If we'd a-hoisted the sail..." he grumbled. +</p> + +<p> +"There wasn't no need if we'd a-pulled a bit farther." +</p> + +<p> +"What's the good o' pulling yer arms out?" +</p> + +<p> +"I knowed where to go, on'y yu said we was far enough." +</p> + +<p> +"No I didn't!" +</p> + +<p> +"S'thee think I don' know where to shute a fleet o' nets?" +</p> + +<p> +"Well, we'm foul, anyhow." +</p> + +<p> +"I was herring drifting afore yu was born. I knows well enough." +</p> + +<p> +"Why don' 'ee hae yer own way then, if yu knows. Yu'm s'posed to be +skipper here." +</p> + +<p> +"If I'd had me own way...." +</p> + +<p> +"Hould thy bloody row, casn'!" +</p> + +<p> +It sounded like murder gathering up; but Tony calls it their brotherly +love-talk, and they are no worse friends for it all. The better the +catch, the more exciting the work, and the livelier the love-talk. They +say, therefore, that it brings luck to a boat. +</p> + +<p> +A third time we shot nets, safely to the east of every other craft. +Then John with his legs in a sack and a fearnought jacket round him, +snored in the cutty, whilst Tony nodded sleepily outside. The sky +eastwards had already in it the weird whitish light of the coming moon. +The risen wind was piping out from land. I could see the bobbing lights +of the other drifters to westward, and the glint of the Seacombe lamps +on the water. Every now and then a broken wave came up to the boat with +a confidential hiss. I had a constant impression that out of the dark +flood some great voice was going to speak to me—speak quite softly. +</p> + +<p> +"Shall us hot some more tea?" said Tony. "My feet be dead wi' cold." +</p> + +<p> +We took the old fish-box and placed on the pebbles in it an old +saucepan half full of oakum soaked in paraffin. Across the saucepan we +ledged a sooty swivel, and on the swivel a black tin kettle which +leaked slowly into the flame. Tony and myself lay with our four feet +cocked along the edge of the box for warmth. The smoke stank in our +nostrils, but the flame was cheery. By that flickering light the boat +looked a great deep place, full of lumber and the blackest shadows. The +herring scales glittered and the worn-out varnish was like rich brown +velvet. And how good the tea, though it tasted of nothing but sugar, +smoke, paraffin and herring. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>A LONG NIGHT AT SEA</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +It was nearly midnight. Tony suggested forty winks. +</p> + +<p> +John was still sprawling beneath the cutty. Tony and I snoozed under +the mainsail, huddled up together for the sake of warmth, like animals +in a nest. At intervals we got up to peep over the gunwale or to bale +the boat out. Then with comic sighs we coiled down together again. It +was bitterly cold in the small hours. We pooled our vitality, as it +were, and shared and shared alike. When we finally awoke, about five in +the morning, the wind had died down, the sky and moon were clouded, and +a dull mist was creeping over the sea. +</p> + +<p> +We hauled in the net—fathoms of it for scarcely a fish. +</p> + +<p> +"Have 'ee got anything to eat?" asked Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"No." +</p> + +<p> +"Have yu got ort to drink?" asked John. +</p> + +<p> +"No." +</p> + +<p> +"Got a cigarette?" I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"Not one." +</p> + +<p> +"If we was to go a bit farther out and shute...." said Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"G'out! Hould yer row!" +</p> + +<p> +"All very well for yu. Yu been sleeping there for all the world like a +gert duncow [dog-fish]. Why didn' 'ee wake up an' hae a yarn for to +keep things merry like?" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>NORT' AT ALL</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +John was leaning out over the bows. He rose up; stretched himself. +"Shute again!" he said with scorn. "Us an't got nort to eat, nort to +drink, nort to smoke, nor nort to talk about, an' us an't catched nort. +Gimme thic sweep there, an' let's get in out o' it, I say." +</p> + +<p> +It was foggy. I steered the boat by compass over a sea that, under the +smudged moon, was in colour and curve like pale violently shaken liquid +mud. In time we glimpsed the cliffs with the mist creeping up over +them. Day was beginning to break, and with a breath of wind that had +sprung up from the SE., we glided like a phantom ship on a phantom sea +towards a phantom town between whose blind houses the wisps of the fog +writhed tortuously. +</p> + +<p> +Sixteen hours to sea in an open boat—for three hundred herrings—and +the price three shillings a hundred! +</p> + +<p> +It is nothing to fishermen, that; but we were all glad of our +breakfast, a smoke and our beds. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +4 +</p> + +<p> +Tony was gone to sea on Christmas Eve. (They caught three thousand). +Mrs Widger had cricked her back, or had caught cold in it standing at +the back door with the steaming wash-tub in front of her and a +northerly wind behind. We wanted some supper beer.... +</p> + +<p> +I felt more than a little shy on entering the jug and bottle department +with a jug. It is such a secret place. To face a bar full of people and +plump a jug down on the counter, is one thing; but it is quite another +to slink up the stairs and into the wooden box—about seven feet high +and four by four—that does duty for the jug and bottle department, and +the privy tippling place, of the Alexandra Hotel. There is no gas +there. Light filters in from elsewhere. It holds about five people, +jammed close together. Round it runs a shelf for glasses, and at one +end is a tiny door through which jugs are passed to the barman. Once +there was a curtain across the entrance, but it was put to such good +and frequent use that they removed it. Talk in the jug and bottle box +is usually carried on in soft whispers punctuated by laughter. +</p> + +<p> +Three cloaked old women were there and one young one. Their jugs stood +on the shelf, ready to take home, but meanwhile they were having a +round of drinks on their own account. They looked surprised at my +arrival (it was an intrusion); and more surprised still when, on +hearing that the barman was merely having a chat the other side, I +rattled the jug on the shelf and bumped the little door. They gasped +when I slipped the bolt of the little door with a penknife. What chake +to be sure! The hotel shows respect to its light-o'-day customers, but +the dim jug and bottle box is supposed to show respect to the hotel. It +calls the barman <i>Sir</i>. It said, "Good-night, sir!" in astonished +chorus to me. +</p> + +<p> +But just as the mere act of jumping a skipping rope made me long ago a +freeman among the children, so I notice that fetching the supper beer +has resulted in another indefinable promotion. I am not so much now +'thic ther gen'leman tu Tony Widger's.' I am become 'Mister +So-and-so'—myself alone. +</p> + +<p> +When I returned with the jug Jimmy was seated at the table and saying +between tears, "I want some supper, Mam. I be 'ungry." +</p> + +<p> +"Yu daring rascal! Yu'll catch your death o' cold if yu goes on getting +your feet wet like this, night after night. I'll break every bone in +your body, I will! Take off they beuts to once, an' go on up over. An't +got no supper for the likes o' you. Yu shan't wear your best clothes +to-morrow, n'eet at all, spoiling 'em like this, yu dirty little cat! +I'll beat it out o' 'ee. Now then! Up over!" +</p> + +<p> +Very tearful, very hungry, and very slowly, Jimmy went to bed. +</p> + +<p> +"No supper's the thing for the likes o' he," his mother remarked. "I +shall gie it to him one o' these days, but I don't hold wi' knocking +'em about tu much." +</p> + +<p> +Her impatience in speech and patience in action are alike +extraordinary. She says she will half kill the children and seldom +strikes even: if I had the responsibility of them, I fear I should do +both. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>SUNDAY CLOTHES</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +Next morning there was a fine dispute over the Sunday clothes. Both +Jimmy and Tommy went upstairs defiantly, and routed them out. The +kitchen was filled with cries and jeers and threats. Tommy appealed to +me. I told him I knew nothing about it, because I hadn't got any Sunday +clothes myself. +</p> + +<p> +"Iss, yu 'ave," said Tommy. +</p> + +<p> +"No, not a rag." +</p> + +<p> +"Yu 'ave." +</p> + +<p> +"I haven't. I've none at all. You've never seen them." +</p> + +<p> +"G'out!" +</p> + +<p> +"That's right." +</p> + +<p> +"Well," said Tommy confidentially, "Yu got a clean chimie-shirt then, +an't 'ee?" +</p> + +<p> +In the laughter which followed, the Sunday clothes were slipped on. And +while Jimmy was struggling with a new pair of boots, he paid me the +nicest compliment I have ever heard. He looked up, red but thoughtful. +"Yu'm like Father Christmas," he said. +</p> + +<p> +"Why for, Jimmy?" +</p> + +<p> +"'Cause yu'm kind." +</p> + +<p> +Jimmy doesn't know how kind he is to me. And I don't suppose it would +do him any good to tell him. +</p> + +<p> +We had a very typical and enjoyable English Christmas. We over-ate +ourselves, and were well pleased, and the children went to bed crying. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +5 +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE "SHOOTING STAR" FITS OUT</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"<i>Shuteing Star o' Seacombe!</i> '<i>Tis</i> a purty crew to go +herring driftin'! I'd so soon fall overboard in a gale o' wind as go +out to say wi' thic li'l Roosian like that ther. Lord! did 'ee ever see +the like o'it? I never did. But there, what can 'ee 'spect when the +herring be up in price an' men an' boats as hasn' been to sea for years +fits out for to go herring driftin'? Coo'h! driftin'!" +</p> + +<p> +That was Uncle Jake's opinion. He stood on the shingle with his old +curiosity of a hat cocked on one side and his hands deep in his trouser +pockets, turning himself round inside his clothes to rub warmth into +his skin; talking, always talking, whilst his twinkling eyes watch sea +and land; but ready to help a boat shove off, and willing to take as +pay the opportunity of talking to, and at, its crew. "'Tis blowing a +fresh wind out 'long there, I tell 'ee," was his formula of +encouragement for a starting boat. +</p> + +<p> +Herrings were up! Sixteen shillings a thousand they had been before +Christmas; then eighteen, twenty-three, thirty-one.... "They'm fetching +two poun' a thousand tu Plymouth, what there is, an' buyers there +waiting from all over the kingdom. An' they'm still going up, 'cause +there ain't none. Nine bob a hunderd tu St Ives, I've a-heard say. +There's a Plymouth buyer here to-day. I've a-see'd our Seacombe buyers +luke. They Plymouth men be the bwoys!" +</p> + +<p> +Herrings too have been in our bay as they have not come for +years—'gert bodies of 'em'—while a succession of gales and blizzards +has been sweeping the whole of the rest of the British coasts, and +driving the steam-drifters into harbour. Hence the price of fish: +quotations very high; business nil, or next door to it. Our bay +however, by a fortunate freak of the weather, has been amply calm for +our little undecked drifters, though squalls off land have made sailing +tricky in the extreme. We have seen the snow on the distant hills but +none has fallen here. We have had the ground-swell, rolling in from +outside, but of broken seas, not one. +</p> + +<p> +The boats that came in early on Christmas night (they didn't like the +look of the weather) brought hauls of ten thousand or so. They had +given away netfuls of herring to craft from other places, because they +had caught so many, and the wind was against them and the sky wild. +</p> + +<p> +Next night, much the same thing. It was rumoured that some Cornish +craft were beating up to the bay. +</p> + +<p> +Next day, the Little Russian, a small, snug, ragged, much-bearded man, +was to be seen painting the stern of his old boat—a craft more +tattered and torn, if possible, than her owner. +</p> + +<p> +"What be doing, Harry?" +</p> + +<p> +No reply. Great industry with the paint-brush. +</p> + +<p> +"Be going to sea then?" +</p> + +<p> +"Iss intye! What did 'er think?" +</p> + +<p> +The Little Russian went on doggedly with his work, and when he rose +from his knees, there appeared complete, on the stern of his boat, in +lanky, crooked white letters: <i>Shooting Star of Seacombe</i>. +</p> + +<p> +"Be it true yu'm going to sea t'night, Harry?" +</p> + +<p> +"Iss." +</p> + +<p> +"What do 'ee 'spect to catch? Eh?" +</p> + +<p> +No answer again. The Little Russian was hauling a couple of nets +aboard. +</p> + +<p> +"Who be going with 'ee?" +</p> + +<p> +"Ol' Joe Barker an' 'Gustus Theodore." +</p> + +<p> +"Good Lord! '<i>Tis</i> a crew, that! Be 'ee going to catch dree dozen +or ten thousand?" +</p> + +<p> +"We'm on'y taking two nets," replied the Little Russian quite +seriously. +</p> + +<p> +He was very busy. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>AND SHOVES OFF</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +About three in the afternoon, when the drifters put out to sea, the +nor'west wind was springing out from land in squalls. It had not +sea-space to raise big waves, but it blew the white tops off the +wavelets which hurried out against, and on the top of, the sou'westerly +swell that was heaving its way in. As Uncle Jake remarked: "'Tis +blowing fresh, I can tell 'ee, an' not so very far out at that. An' +'tis blowing half a gale from the sou'west outside in the Channel. Do +'ee see thic black line across the horizon? That's the sou'west wind, +an' plenty o'it. Luke at thees yer run along the shore, wi' a calm sea. +'Tis the sou'west outside as makes that tu." +</p> + +<p> +The boats hoisted their smaller mainsails. "Aye, an' they'll hae to +reef they down afore they gets out far. There! did 'ee see thic? That's +thiccy seine-boat as fitted out. Seine-boats ain't no fit craft for +herring driftin'." +</p> + +<p> +The mainmast of the seine boat had toppled over to port. No sooner was +it re-stepped, and the sail hoisted, than over it went again. "Step o' +the mast gone, I'll be bound," said Uncle Jake. "They'm going to +capsize, going on like that, if they bain't careful. Poor job! when +mastises goes over like that. Better to row.... There's thic Li'l +Roosian shoving off!" +</p> + +<p> +In fact, the <i>Shooting Star</i> was shoved off, but a wave threw her +back upon the shore. She was again shoved off. Again she grounded on +the sand, and there she stuck. A roar of laughter broke forth all along +the beach. The Little Russian and his crew stood up in the heeled-over +boat, and by using their oars like punt poles, they tried to prevent +the seas from slewing them round broadside on. Very helpless they +looked, very comic, very futile. +</p> + +<p> +A swarm of small boys buzzed around and jeered. The Little Russian +jumped up and down with vexation. Augustus Theodore, rowing frantically +in a foot or so of water, splashed and 'caught crabs.' Joe Barker, +tall, patriarchal, thin and thinly clad, stood up to his oar, looked +savage curses from his sunken old eyes and muttered them into his +beard. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>AND GETS OFF</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"That <i>be</i> a purty crew!" repeated Uncle Jake. "I 'ouldn' go to +say wi' 'em, not if.... A purty fellow, thic 'Gustus Theodore! They +calls chil'ern by names nowadays, but they called he 'Gustus Theodore, +an' us can't get over thic, so us al'ays calls 'en 'Gustus Theodore in +long. Bain't no gude tu hisself nor nobody else. I've a-took 'en to +say.... Never again! 'Er ain't no fisherman nuther. An' thic Joe +Barker's past it. He've had his day. Been in the Army an' been in the +Navy, an' an't brought no pension out o' the one n'eet out o' t'other. +Helped throw a 'Merican midshipman overboard once, so they say, drough +a porthole. Thought they was going to be hanged for it, but they +wasn't. He've a-lived wildish in his time, I can tell 'ee; an' now he's +the man for sleep. Take 'en out shrimping or lifting crab-pots, stop +rowing a minute an' he's fast asleep. The Li'l Roosian hisself an't +been to say thees dozen years. 'Tis a crew o'it! Luke! <i>they</i> +can't shove off. I can see they wants Uncle Jake there." +</p> + +<p> +The <i>Shooting Star</i> was still being shoved. The Little Russian was +still jumping up and down in the stern-sheets; Augustus Theodore was +still rowing fast and fruitlessly; and Joe Barker stood impassively +tall—a mummy of a man, wrapped up in aged clothes and a great dirty +white beard. Life was contracted within him. No more than his eyes +seemed alive, and hardly those until you looked closely; for the yellow +rims and whites appeared to be dead, and the old cursing flame of life +burnt only in the pupils. +</p> + +<p> +"Do 'ee really mean to go?" asked Uncle Jake, taking up a long oar to +shove with. "'Tisn't nowise fit for a crazy craft like thees yer." +</p> + +<p> +"When a man," said the Little Russian solemnly, "when a man has a +chance to catch herring and pay his way, and pay a debt or two maybe, +'tis on'y right to try." +</p> + +<p> +"For sure 'tis. But why an't 'ee been to say thees twelve year then?" +</p> + +<p> +"An't been fit...." +</p> + +<p> +"Fit! Tis the price o' herring fetches the likes o' yu. Have 'ee got +yer lead-line and compass aboard?" +</p> + +<p> +"I've broke mine." +</p> + +<p> +"'Tis tempting Providence to go away wi'out 'em Be yu off? Off yu goes +then. Luke out!" +</p> + +<p> +A yell went up as a wave broke in over the stern and soaked Joe +Barker's back. +</p> + +<p> +"They'm off!" cried Uncle Jave with ironic merriment. "Wet drough to +the skin they be!" +</p> + +<p> +The Little Russian rowed steadily on the same side as 'Gustus Theodore. +Both of them just balanced Joe Barker, who rowed on the other side in +strong jerks, as if his aged strength revived for a part only of each +stroke. +</p> + +<p> +Darkness, drawing in over the sea, hid the drifters from sight. Along +the beach we asked one another in jest, "I wonder what the <i>Shuteing +Star</i> is doing now?" +</p> + +<p> +The commonest answer was a laugh. But we did want to know. +</p> + +<p> +Between eleven o'clock and midnight sail after sail appeared silently +on the black darkness, as if some invisible hand had suddenly painted +them there. The boats were coming in. Creaks and groans of winches +sounded along the beach. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>AND RETURNS</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Who be yu?" was the greeting from a rabble of youths who scuttled up +and down the waters' edge to guide boats to their berths and gain first +news of the catches. "Have 'ee see'd ort o' the <i>Shuteing Star</i>?" +they shouted. +</p> + +<p> +"No-o-o-o!" +</p> + +<p> +"<i>I</i> shan't go to bed till they comes in," said Uncle Jake. +"Cuden' sleep if I did. '<i>Tis</i> a craft! Her's so leaky as a sieve, +lying dry all these years. Not but what her was a gude 'nuff li'l craft +in her time—tu small for winter work. But I wishes 'em luck, I du." +</p> + +<p> +At last, the <i>Shooting Star</i> did row in. They had not dared to +sail her. She touched the beach before we glimpsed her, for all our +watching. A crowd ran down to haul her up and to crack jokes on her. +</p> + +<p> +"Have 'ee catched ort, Harry?" +</p> + +<p> +"Tu or dree dizzen, an' half a ton o' coral an' some wild-crabs." +</p> + +<p> +"Did 'er sail well—keep up to the wind? Eh?" +</p> + +<p> +"Us rowed. 'Tis blowin' a gale out there." +</p> + +<p> +"What yu done to your nets?" +</p> + +<p> +"Broke 'em." +</p> + +<p> +"On to the bottom?" +</p> + +<p> +"Iss." +</p> + +<p> +"Why didn't 'ee go crab-fishing proper? Be 'ee going again?" +</p> + +<p> +The little Russan saw no joke. He bustled about the boat and replied: +"A-course we be, if 'tis fit." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, I wishes 'ee luck then." +</p> + +<p> +We all wished luck to the <i>Shooting Star</i>—to that cranky old +boatload of pluck, ill-luck, and ancient desperation. +</p> + +<p> +Said Uncle Jake: "I'd rather see they come in wi' a boatload o' herring +than any boat along the beach. 'Tis a purty craft an' a purty crew, but +they du desarve it." +</p> + +<p> +So said we all. 'Twas the least payment we could make for our +entertainment. +</p> + +<p> +As soon as they were hauled up, Joe Barker lit his pipe, and, instead +of going to bed, he went west along the shore, and carried up and +sifted sand till dawn. +</p> + +<p> +"Jest what he be fit for now," Uncle Jake remarked. "That'll get 'en +his bread an' baccy far sooner'n drifting for herring in thic +<i>Shuteing Star</i>." +</p> + +<p> +But if we only could have looked into the <i>Shooting Star</i> at sea. +The <i>Shooting Star of Seacombe</i>! +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +6 +</p> + +<p> +"Us got 'em at last then!" so we tell one another. We have caught the +catch of the season. +</p> + +<p> +For three or four days the hauls had been fairly good. Elsewhere on the +coast, the snow, sleet, wind and wrecks continued. Here alone, in +Seacombe Bay, it got colder and colder, and the sea became calmer and +sunnier. "Tis like old days," Uncle Jake said while he spliced a new +cut-rope to the drifter. "The herring be come again, in bodies, and the +price be up. Us'll hae 'em." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>PAYING CALLS AT SEA</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +An hour before sunset on Saturday afternoon we were shoved off the +beach—Tony, John, and myself. Every article of underclothing in +duplicate, a couple of guernseys and a coat or two were next to +nakedness. We were bloated with clothes, but that northerly air, it +seemed to be fingering our very skins. Yet there was hardly wind enough +to fill the sail. Ricketty-rock, ricketty-rock, went the sweeps between +the thole-pins, as we rowed to the fishing ground six miles or so away. +Not one of us wished to shirk the heavy work. 'Twas indeed our only +source of warmth. The sun was setting. The moon began to rise. The sea +was all of a glimmer and glitter. +</p> + +<p> +"I should think we was nearly where they fish be," said John. +</p> + +<p> +"Bit farther," said Tony. "Us'll drift back 'long when the flid tide +makes." +</p> + +<p> +"Du as yu'm minded tu." +</p> + +<p> +"Steer her a little bit in," directed Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"A little bit out," directed John the next minute. +</p> + +<p> +It was a middle course that turned out so happily. +</p> + +<p> +We shot our nets—seven forty-fathom nets we had aboard—between the +dying sunlight and the rising moon. Very still was the sea, and quiet, +except where the other drifters were shooting their nets. Their talk +lingered on the water; small voices that yet sounded strong. By the +light of the moon I counted twenty-seven drifters, some of them great +harbour craft from Cornwall, carrying fifteen or more nets. It seemed +as if not a herring on that little fishing ground could escape the long +fleets of nets. +</p> + +<p> +We lighted the paraffin flare; supped on sandwiches and oily tea. We +stamped about the stern-sheets to try and warm our feet. We sat awhile +beneath the cutty. We thought we smelt fish, but it might have been +only the smoke from our oil fire and the herring roe plastered about +the boat. Despairing of sleep in such a cold, we sang and smoked. +</p> + +<p> +Presently a plash of oars. Little punts were detaching themselves from +the larger drifters and flitting about on the sea like slow-winged +moon-butterflies. One came alongside. +</p> + +<p> +"Whu's that there?" +</p> + +<p> +"Tony an' John Widger—Have 'em been catching much to Hallsands?—Be +they Plymouth drifters up t'night?—What price yu been making?—How +deep yu got yer nets?—Have 'ee catched holt the bottom?—How's Aaron +an' Charles?—Did he get back ort o' his gear?—Us an't done a gert +deal eet. Few thousands thees week. Be yu going to haul in +soon?—Better, be her? Thought her was dead by now...." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>HAULING IN</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The fish-gossip over, we knew all the news of our stretch of coast. +After taking another cigarette and another pull at our 'drop o' summut +short,' the man in the punt rowed off to his drifter. +</p> + +<p> +"D' yu know your fourth buoy's awash?" he shouted back. +</p> + +<p> +"Is it, by God!" said John. +</p> + +<p> +"I can see 'tis," said Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"G'out! why didn' 'ee see 'twas afore then? Let's go an' luke." +</p> + +<p> +We buoyed the end of the road and started rowing alongside the +net-buoys. The fourth was bobbing up and down. The fifth appeared now +and then. None of the others was visible. +</p> + +<p> +"Damn'd if us bain't going to see some sport!" shouted John as we +hastened back to take up the road. +</p> + +<p> +We tugged on oilskins and then waited watchfully—for the inside net to +fill as well. The third buoy disappeared. The second went awash. "Now +'tis time, ain't it?" +</p> + +<p> +"Iss, I reckon." +</p> + +<p> +We bent to it, and began to haul. +</p> + +<p> +The road come in heavy: John hauled and Tony coiled. As the net rose we +saw a shimmer in the water, not of sea-fire—it was too cold—but of +silver-sided herring. Then John took the foot of the net, Tony the mesh +and myself the headrope. One strain. Altogether! Net and fish came in +over the gunwale. +</p> + +<p> +"No use to try and pick 'em out yer!" said John. +</p> + +<p> +"Us 'ould never ha' got 'em in wi' two," panted Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"Haul, casn'! Trim the boat. We'm going to hae all us can carry if +t'other nets be so full as thees yer." +</p> + +<p> +We hauled, and pulled, and puffed and swore. The fish came over the +side like a band of jewels, like shining grains on a huge and +never-ending ear of corn, like a bright steel mat.... It was as if the +moonlight itself, that flooded air and water, was solidifying into fish +in the dimmer depths of the sea. A good catch must have dropped back +out of the net. At times, it seemed as if nothing could move the +headrope. I jammed a knee against the gunwale, waited till the dipping +of the boat gave me a foot or two of line, then jammed again to hold +it. The sea-birds screeched at their feast. +</p> + +<p> +Tony, an inflated mannikin, danced on the piled-up nets and fish. +"Help, help!" he cried to the next drifter. "Us got a catch." +</p> + +<p> +"Hould yer row!" +</p> + +<p> +"Help, help!" +</p> + +<p> +"Shut up, yu fule!—We'm not done yet.—Thee doesn't want to pay for +help, dost?" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE CATCH OF THE SEASON</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +We hauled, pulled, puffed and swore again. Yard by yard the nets came +up, now foul, now broken, now tangled, now wound about the headrope and +almost solid with fish. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, my poor back." +</p> + +<p> +"Lord, my arms!" +</p> + +<p> +"Casn' thee trim a boat better'n that?" +</p> + +<p> +"Where 'er down tu?" +</p> + +<p> +"There's only two strakes to spare." +</p> + +<p> +The water was within less than a foot of the gunwale, and we were five +or six miles from home. +</p> + +<p> +"Help, help!" shouted Tony again, and this time we let it pass. Five +out of our seven nets were aboard; we could not take the remaining two. +</p> + +<p> +Another drifter came alongside and took in the sixth net. +</p> + +<p> +"Come on! here's the seventh—the last." +</p> + +<p> +"Can't take no more." +</p> + +<p> +"Ther's on'y thees yer outside net. Casn' thee take thic?" +</p> + +<p> +"Can't du it. We'm leaking now. Here's your headrope. Good-night." +</p> + +<p> +Tony gave a gesture of despair. "What shall us du? Us can't take in +much more. +</p> + +<p> +"Hould yer row, an' haul!" +</p> + +<p> +The last net was fuller than ever. We hauled in half of it. A punt came +near. "Can 'ee take one net?" yelled Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"Us got 'en half in now," said John. +</p> + +<p> +"Iss, but the wind's gone round—north-easterly—dead against us. An' +luke at the circle round the mune. Ther's wind in thic sky, I tell 'ee. +Us got so much now as we can carry home on a calm sea, let 'lone +choppy." +</p> + +<p> +We cut the net. +</p> + +<p> +"Hurry up! Hoist sail and get in out o'it 'fore the wind rises. Come +on!" +</p> + +<p> +With two oars out to windward we started beating home. We made a tack +out to sea. There the waves skatted in over the bows, for the +deeply-laden boat was down by the head because the heavy pile of net +and fish prevented the water from running aft where we could have +bailed it out. If we had had to tack much farther to sea.... We should +have lost the catch, and perhaps ourselves. +</p> + +<p> +We put the boat round towards Seacombe. "Luff her up all yu can," said +John. "Luff her up, I tell thee, or we'm never going to fetch. The +sea's rising an' us an't got nort to spare." +</p> + +<p> +By keeping the luff of the sail in a flutter, sometimes too much into +the wind, I just fetched. Then we rowed into smoother water. +</p> + +<p> +"'Tis fifteen thousand if 'tis one," said John. +</p> + +<p> +"'Tis more'n that," said Tony with a note of respect in his voice. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>PACKING THE FISH</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"Better wait till they sends some boats out. Us can't baych the boat +wi' thees weight in her." +</p> + +<p> +We yelled, anchored, then waited; swore, yelled and waited. Someone +came at last. The great heavy mast was sent ashore. Two boatloads of +net and fish followed, and finally the drifter herself was beached. +</p> + +<p> +The crowd that had gathered on the shingle worked at the winch and +ropes. We walked about among them answering questions, but for the +moment doing nothing. We felt we had a right to watch the landlubbers +work in return for the herrings we threw out to them. We had been to +sea; had caught the catch of the season. +</p> + +<p> +I came in house and fried some herrings for supper. Tony and John went +back to the boat. All night long they worked under the moon, drawing +out the net and picking the fish from it, standing knee-deep in fish, +spotted with scales like sequins. Far into Sunday they worked, counting +and packing the fish while the Sunday folk in their best clothes +strolled along the sea-wall and sniffed. +</p> + +<p> +Twenty-two long-thousand herrings—squashed, dirty and +bloodstained—were carted away in the barrels. Twenty-eight hours Tony +and John had worked. Then they washed, picked herring scales off +themselves, and rested. The skin was drawn tightly over their faces +and, as it were, away from their eyes. I saw, as I glanced at them, +what they will look like when they are old men: the skull and +crossbones half peeped out. And I said to myself: "When we feed on +herrings we feed on fishermen's strength. Though we don't cook human +meat, we are cannibals yet. We eat each other's lives." +</p> + +<p> +Rightly considered, that's not a nasty thought. Nor a new one either. +</p> + + +<p class="head"> +7 +</p> + +<p> +New Year's Eve last night.... Tony did not go to sea. He announced that +he would turn over a new leaf, and be a gen'leman, and not do no work +no more. "Summut'll turn up," he said when I asked him how he was going +to feed his family. "Al'ays have done an' al'ays will, I s'pose. Thees +yer ol' fule 'll go on till he's clean worked out. Thee casn' die but +once, an' thee casn' help o'it nuther. +</p> + +<p> +"Shut thee chatter an' bring in some wude," said Mrs Widger. "Now then +yu children, off yu goes! Up over, else my hand'll be 'longside o'ee!" +</p> + +<p> +"Gude-night!" say the children in chorus. "Gude-night! Gude-night! See +yu t'morrow morning. Du us hae presents on New Year's Day, Mam?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yu'll see. P'raps a cracker...." +</p> + +<p> +"Coo'h...." +</p> + +<p> +"Up over!" +</p> + +<p> +"What 'tis tu be a family man," said Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"Whu's fault's that?" Mam Widger retorted. +</p> + +<p> +"There, me ol' stocking, don't thee worry a man! Gie us a kiss...." +</p> + +<p> +"G'out!" +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>DREE-HA'P'ORTH</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +The Christmas decorations and the little spangled toys from the +children's crackers were still hanging from clothes-lines across the +kitchen. We piled wood on the fire; it had barnacle shells on it; with +the wreckage of good ships we warmed ourselves. Mam Widger laid the +supper. The steam from the kettles puffed merrily into the room. +Herrings were cooking in the oven. A faint odour—they were being +stewed in vinegar—stole out into the room to give us appetite and for +the moment a sense of plenty. Mrs Widger took a penny-ha'penny from the +household purse and handed it, together with a jug to Tony. +"Dree-ha'p'orth o' ale an' stout. Go on." +</p> + +<p> +Tony returned with tupence-ha'p'orth. He had added a penny out of his +own pocket because he is ashamed to ask for less than a pint. Grannie +Pinn came in at the same time. "I got the t'other pen'orth for me +mither-in-law," said Tony. +</p> + +<p> +"Chake again!" Grannie Pinn cried. "I wants more'n a pen'orth, I du." +</p> + +<p> +Tony slipped off his boots just in time. It was I who had to fetch an +extra dree-ha'p'orth. +</p> + +<p> +We supped with the uproariousness that Grannie Pinn always brings here. +Some other people dropped in to see how we were doing. Not staying to +clear the supper, we sang. The songs, as such, were indifferently good, +but we meant them and enjoyed them. For a while Grannie Pinn contented +herself with humming and nodding to the chorus. She started singing: +swore at us for laughing at her. "I cude sing a song wi' anybody once," +she said; and therewith she struck up a fine, very Rabelaisian old song +in many verses. She lifted up her face to the ceiling, blushed (I am +sure the Tough Old Stick blushed), and in a high cracked voice that +gradually gathered tone and force, she trolled her verses out. With an +infectious abandonment, we took up the chorus. After all, 'twas a song +of things that happen every day—one of those pieces of folk-humour +which makes life's seriousness bearable by carrying us frankly back to +the animal that is in us, that has been cursed for centuries and still +remains our strength. +</p> + +<p> +Grannie Pinn's song was the event of the evening. Excited by her +efforts to the point of hardly knowing whether to laugh or cry, she +told us we were 'a pack o' gert fules,' and went. The other visitors +followed after. +</p> + +<p> +"Don' know what yu feels like," said Tony when they were all gone. "I +feels more-ish. 'N hour agone I wer fit for bed, now I feels 's if I +cude sing for hours on end...." +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>THE NEW YEAR</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +"May as well welcome in the New Year now 'tis so late as 'tis," said +Mrs Widger, taking from one of her store-places a bottle of green +ginger-wine and another of fearful and wonderful 'Invalid Port' which, +as she remarked, 'ain't so strengthening as the port what gentry has.' +Tony added hot water to his ginger-wine, lay back in the courting +chair, plumped his feet on Mrs Widger's lap, and sang some more of +those sea songs that have such melancholy windy tunes and yet most +curiously stimulate one to action. I think it must be because they echo +that particular sub-emotional desperation which causes men to do their +reckless best—the desperation that the treacherous sea itself +engenders. +</p> + +<p> +At a minute or two before twelve by the clock, the three of us went out +to the back door. When the cats had scuttled away, the narrow walled-in +garden was very still. By the light of the stars, shining like points +in the deep winter heavens, I could see the beansticks, the balks of +wood and the old masts and oars. I could also smell the drain. Tony, in +his stockinged feet, leant on his wife's shoulder while he raised first +one foot from the cold stones, and then the other. We were a little +hushed, with more than expectancy. So we waited; to hear the church +clock strike and to welcome in the New Year. +</p> + +<p> +And we waited until Tony said that his feet were too cold to stay there +any longer. The church clock struck—<i>ting-tang, ting-tang</i>—in +the frosty air.... A quarter past! The New Year had been with us all +the while. It was our German-made kitchen clock had stopped. +</p> + +<p> +We laughed aloud because the strain was relaxed; then bolted the door +and began putting away the supper things. +</p> + +<p> +"If anybody wants to make me a New Year's Gift," said Tony, "they can +gie me a thousand a year." +</p> + +<p> +"And then yu'd be done for," I said. "Yu cuden' stand a life o' nort to +du. Nor cude I. We'm both in the same box, Tony. We've both got only +our strength and skill and health, and if that fails, then we'm done. +We'm our own stock-in-trade, and if we fail ourselves, then we've both +got only the workhouse or the road." +</p> + +<p> +"Iss," said Mam Widger, "an' I don' know but what yu'm worse off than +Tony. He <i>cude</i> get somebody to work his boats—for a time. An' I +cude work. But afore yu comes to the workhouse yu jest walk along thees +way, an' if us got ort to eat yu shall hae some o'it." +</p> + +<p> +"Be damn'd if yu shan't!" said Tony. (I was putting away the pepper-pot +at the moment). "Us 'ouldn't never let thee starve, not if us had it +ourselves for to give 'ee." +</p> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p> +So there 'tis. I'd wish to do the same for him, that he knows. How much +the spirit of such an offer can mean, only those who have been without +a home can understand fully. This New Year's Day has been happier than +most. Life has made me a New Year's Gift so good that I cannot free +myself from a suspicion of its being too good. +</p> + +<p> +It has given me home. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +X +</p> + +<p class="head"> +POSTSCRIPT +</p> + + +<p class="right"><span class="sc">Seacombe.</span> +</p> + +<p> +I am often asked why I have forsaken the society of educated people, +and have made my home among 'rough uneducated' people, in a poor man's +house. The briefest answer is, that it is good to live among those who, +on the whole, are one's superiors. +</p> + +<p> +It is pointed out with considerable care what ill effects such a life +has, or is likely to have, upon a man. It is looked upon as a kind of +relapse. But to settle down in a poor man's house is by no means to +adopt a way of life that is less trouble. On the contrary, it is more +trouble. +</p> + +<p> +It is true that most of what schoolmasters call one's accomplishments +have to be dropped. One cannot keep up everything anywhere. +</p> + +<p> +It is true that one goes to the theatre less and reads less. Life, +lived with a will, is play enough, and closer acquaintance with life's +sterner realities renders one singularly impatient with the literature +of life's frillings. I do not notice, however, that it makes one less +susceptible to the really fine and strong things of literature and art. +</p> + +<p> +It is true that one drops into dialect when excited; that one's manners +suffer in conventional correctness. I suppose I know how to behave +fairly correctly; I was well taught at all events; but my manners never +have been and never will be so good, so considerate as Tony's. 'Tisn't +in me. +</p> + +<p> +It is true that one becomes much coarser. One acquires a habit of +talking with scandalous freedom about vital matters which among the +unscientific educated are kept hid in the dark—and go fusty there. But +I do not think there is much vulgarity to be infected with here. +Coarseness and vulgarity are incompatibles. It was well said in a book +written not long ago, that "Coarseness reveals but vulgarity hides." +Vulgarity is chiefly characteristic of the non-courageous who are +everlastingly bent on climbing up the social stairs. Poor people are +hardly ever vulgar, until they begin to 'rise' into the middle class. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>WISDOM</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +It is true that, so far as knowledge goes, one is bound to be cock o' +the walk among uneducated people—which, alone, is bad for a man. But +knowledge is not everything, nor even the main thing. Wisdom is more +than knowledge: it is <i>Knowledge applied to life, the ability to make +use of the knowledge well</i>. In that respect I often have here to eat +a slice of humble-pie. For all my elaborate education and painfully +gained stock of knowledge, I find myself silenced time after time by +the direct wisdom of these so-called ignorant people. They have +preserved better, between knowledge and experience, that balance which +makes for wisdom. They have less knowledge (less mental dyspepsy too) +and use it to better purpose. It occurs to one finally that, according +to our current standards, the great wise men whom we honour—Christ, +Plato, Shakespeare, to name no more—were very ignorant fellows. +Possibly the standards are wrong. +</p> + +<p class="sidenote"><span class="sn"><i>DIFFERENTIAL EVOLUTION</i></span> +</p> + +<p> +To live with the poor is to feel oneself in contact with a greater +continuity of tradition and to share in a greater stability of life. +The nerves are more annoyed, the thinking self less. Perhaps the +difference between the two kinds of life may be tentatively +expressed—not necessarily accounted for—in terms of Differential +Evolution,<a href="#note23" name="noteref23"><sup>23</sup></a> somewhat thus: +</p> +<div class="blockquote"> +<p> +(1) The first, the least speculative, evolutionary criterion of an +animal is its degree of adaptation to its environment. +</p> + +<p> +(2) Man exhibits a less degree of adaptation to environment than any +other animal; principally because (<i>a</i>) he consists, roughly +speaking, incomparably more than any other animal, of three +interdependent parts—body, thinking brain, and that higher mental +function that we call spirit—the development of any one of which, +beyond a certain stage, is found to be detrimental to the other two; +and because (<i>b</i>) he is able possibly to control directly his own +evolution, and certainly to modify it indirectly by modifying the +environment in which he evolves. He is able to make mistakes in his own +evolution. +</p> + +<p> +(3) The typical poor man is better adapted to his environment, such as +it is, than the typical man of any other class; for he has been kept in +closer contact with the primary realities—birth, death, risk, +starvation;—in closer contact, that is to say, with those +sections of human environment which are not of human making and which +are common to all classes. He has fewer mistakes to go back upon. +</p> + +<p> +It might be said, of course, that mal-adaptation at any given moment is +more than counterbalanced by greater evolutional potentialities, or by +greater inducement to evolve; and that the above chain of reasoning +simply goes to prove that the poor man is more of an animal—less +evolved. On the other hand, from an evolutionary standpoint, the animal +faculties are the most basic of all. A sound stomach is more necessary +than a highly developed brain, and good reproductive faculties are +essential; because the first demand of evolution is plenty of material. +It does not follow that our typical poor man is more of an animal, is +less evolved, or has a smaller potentiality to evolve, because he has +preserved better the animal faculties which lie at the basis of +evolution. +</p> + +<p> +Furthermore: +</p> + +<p> +(4) There is a reasonable probability that an interior balance, between +body, brain, and spirit, is more needful for realising the +potentialities of evolution than rapidity of development in any single +respect. <i>Mens sana in corpore sano—animaque integra</i> is an +ideal as sound as it is unachieved. More haste less speed, is probably +true of human evolution. A healthy baby is more hopeful than a mad +adult. +</p> + +<p> +(5) The typical poor man does, now, exhibit a better balance between +these three components of him. Less evolved in some ways, he is on the +whole, and for that reason, more forward. His evolution is proceeding +with greater solidity. It is more stable, and more likely to realise +its potentialities. +</p></div> + +<hr class="short"> + +<p> +That is a speculation among probabilities and possibilities; an attempt +to go in a bee-line across fields that are mainly hidden ditches; a +first spying out of a country that wants mapping; a course over a sea +that can never perhaps be buoyed, where bearings must be taken afresh +from the sun for each voyage that is made. In any case, my belief grows +stronger that the poor have kept essentially what a schoolboy calls the +better end of the stick; not because their circumstances are +better—materially their lives are often terrible enough—but because +they know better how to make the most of what material circumstances +they have. If they could improve their material circumstances and +continue making the most of them.... That is the problem. +</p> + +<p> +Good Luck to us all! +</p> +<br> +<hr class="med"> +<br> +<p class="ctr"><b>Footnotes</b></p> +<a name="note1"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref1"><sup>1</sup></a> A heavy stone used instead of an anchor over rocks, among +which an anchor might get stuck and lost. +</p> + +<a name="note2"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref2"><sup>2</sup></a> After the end of July, the mackerel are mostly caught not +in nets, but by trailing a line behind a sailing boat. +</p> + +<a name="note3"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref3"><sup>3</sup></a> Composite pictures apparently; made from a photograph of a +ship and of a bad painting of a hurricane. +</p> + +<a name="note4"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref4"><sup>4</sup></a> Prawning. +</p> + +<a name="note5"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref5"><sup>5</sup></a> Periwinkle gathering. +</p> + +<a name="note6"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref6"><sup>6</sup></a> Freights, <i>i.e.</i> pleasure parties. +</p> + +<a name="note7"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref7"><sup>7</sup></a> Granfer's brother, Tony's uncle. +</p> + +<a name="note8"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref8"><sup>8</sup></a> A <i>lop</i> is a short choppy sea raised by the immediate +action of a breeze. A <i>swell</i> consists of the long heaving waves +which follow, and sometimes precede, a storm. The diverse action of +different sorts of waves on a shingle beach is interesting. Short seas +(<i>i.e.</i> short from crest to crest), even when they are very high, +have not nearly the force or <i>run</i> of a long, though much lower +ground-swell; that is they neither run so far up the beach nor so +greatly endanger the boats. All kinds of waves possess more run at +spring than at neap tides. A lop on a swell at spring tide is therefore +the most troublesome of all to the fishermen. +</p> + +<a name="note9"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref9"><sup>9</sup></a> The fishermen's line is very different from the tackle +makers' arrangements. It varies a little locally. At Seacombe, the +upper part consists of 2-3 fathoms of stoutish conger line, to take the +friction over the gunwale, and 5-6 fathoms of finer line, to the end of +which a conical 'sugarloaf' lead is attached by a clove hitch, the +short end being laid up around the standing part for an inch or so and +then finished off with the strong, neat difficue (corruption of +<i>difficult</i>?) knot. A swivel, or better still simply an eyelet cut +from an old boot, runs free, just above the lead, between the clove +hitch and difficue knot. To the eyelet is attached the +'sid'—<i>i.e.</i>, two or three fathoms of fine snooding;—to the sid +a length of gut on which half an inch ofclay pipe-stem is threaded, and +to the gut a rather large hook. The bait is a 'lask,' or long +three-cornered strip of skin, cut from the tail of a mackerel. The +older fishermen prefer a round lead, cast in the egg-shell of a gull, +because it runs sweeter through the water, but with this form the +fish's bite is difficult to feel on account of the jerk having to be +transmitted through the heavy bulky piece of lead. +</p> + +<p class="foot"> +The lines are trailed astern of the boat as it sails up and down, where +the mackerel are believed to be. When well on the feed they will bite, +even at the pipe clay and bare hook, faster than they can be hauled +inboard. River anglers and even some sea fishers are disposed to deny +the amount of skill, alertness and knowledge which go to catching the +greatest possible number of fish while they are up. It is often said +that the mackerel allows itself to be caught as easily by a beginner as +by an old hand. One or two mackerel may: mackerel don't. In hooking, as +opposed to fishing fine with a rod, the sporting element is supplied by +fish, not <i>a</i> fish; by numbers in a given time, not bend and +break. The tackle brought to the sea by the superior angler, who thinks +he knows more than those who have hooked mackerel for generations, is a +wonder, delight, and irritation to professional fishermen: it is +constructed in such robust ignorance of the habits, and manner of +biting, of mackerel, and it ignores so obstinately the conditions of +the sport. Likewise the fish ignore <i>it</i>. +</p> + +<a name="note10"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref10"><sup>10</sup></a> Undoubtedly, if the mackerel are only half on the feed, a +fresh lask is better than any other bait, better than an equally +brilliant salted lask. It is the shine of the bait at which the fish +bite, as at a spinner, but probably the fresh lask leaves behind it in +the water an odour or flavour of mackerel oil which keeps the shoal +together and makes them follow the boat. +</p> + +<a name="note11"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref11"><sup>11</sup></a> The flexibility and expressiveness of dialect lies largely +in its ability to change its verbal form and pronunciation from a +speech very broad indeed to something approaching standard English. For +example, "You'm a fool," is playful; "You'm a fule," less so. "You're a +fool," asserts the fact without blame; while "Thee't a fule," or "Thee +a't a fule!" would be spoken in temper, and the second is the more +emphatic. The real differences between "I an't got nothing," "I an't +got ort," and "I an't got nort,"—"Oo't?" "Casn'?" "Will 'ee?" and +"Will you?"—"You'm not," "You ain't," "You bain't," and "Thee +a'tn't,"—are hardly to be appreciated by those who speak only standard +English. <i>Thee</i> and <i>thou</i> are used between intimates, as in +French. <i>Thee</i> is usual from a mother to her children, but is +disrespectful from children to their mother. +</p> + +<a name="note12"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref12"><sup>12</sup></a> On the moral aspect of cleanliness I have not touched. +Miss M. Loane, a Queen's Nurse, in her remarkable book <i>The Next +Street but One</i>, observes "Cleanliness has often seemed to me +strangely far from godliness. Where the virtue is highly developed +there is often not merely an actual but an absolute shrinkage in all +sweet neighbourly charities. If an invalid's bedroom needs scrubbing +and there is no money to pay for the service, or if a chronic +sufferer's kitchen is in want of a 'thorough good do-out,' if two or +three troublesome children have to be housed and fed during the +critical days after an operation on father or mother, do I look for +assistance from 'the cleanest woman in the street?' Alas, no; whether +she be wife, widow, or spinster, I pass her by, careful not to tread on +her pavement, much less her doorstep, and seek the happy-go-lucky +person whose own premises would be better for more water and less +grease, but from whose presence neither husband nor child ever hastens +away." +</p> + +<a name="note13"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref13"><sup>13</sup></a> A spot found by getting an elm-tree on the cliffs in a +line with a beech-tree up on land. +</p> + +<a name="note14"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref14"><sup>14</sup></a> Fried mixed vegetables. +</p> + +<a name="note15"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref15"><sup>15</sup></a> Bread broth with butter, or dripping, and water instead of +milk. A dash of skim milk is sometimes added. +</p> + +<a name="note16"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref16"><sup>16</sup></a> For herrings the lanyards may be of such a length that +the foot of the net almost touches the sea-bottom. For mackerel, which +is a surface and midwater fish, they are much shorter, so that the +headrope lies just below the top of the water. +</p> + +<a name="note17"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref17"><sup>17</sup></a> I trust I make it plain that these statements imply no +general disparagement of hospitals. Whether or no they do the best +possible under the circumstances is not to be discussed shortly or by +the present writer. Since penning the above, it has fallen to me to +take a patient to the out-department of one of the great London +hospitals. We had some time to wait, with very many others, on long +wooden benches. I cannot express the almost unbearable depression, the +sense of ebbing vitality, the feeling of being jammed in a machine, +which took possession of me, who was quite well. And I wish I could +adequately express my admiration of the visiting surgeon's manipulation +of his delicate instruments and his management of the patient. +</p> + +<a name="note18"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref18"><sup>18</sup></a> Like a landing net, but shallower and with a shorter +handle. +</p> + +<a name="note19"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref19"><sup>19</sup></a> Boat-nets are the same in construction as setting-nets +(see p. 192), but upwards of a yard in diameter. Instead of a cord and +stick, they have attached to them four or five fathoms of grass line. A +few small flat oval corks are spliced at short intervals into the end +of the line remote from the net, and at the extremity is a cork buoy +about half as large as a man's head. +</p> + +<a name="note20"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref20"><sup>20</sup></a> "The Hygiene of Mind," by T. S. Clouston, M.D., F.R.S.E., +(London, 1906). Without an extension which Dr Clouston provides, though +not in so many words, the definition I have italicized is +psychologically a little superficial. Mental inhibition, generally, +needs dividing into self-control and, say, auto-control. Where one man +may <i>self-control</i> himself by an effort of will, another man, in +the same predicament, might <i>auto-control</i> himself instinctively, +without a conscious effort of will. Which is the saner, and likelier to +remain so, under ordinary circumstances and under extraordinary +circumstances, would be most difficult to determine. Many people are +only sane in action because they know that they are insane in impulse, +and take measures accordingly. They keep a sane front to the world by +legislating pretty sternly for themselves. +</p> + +<a name="note21"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref21"><sup>21</sup></a> "The more one sees of the poor in their own homes, the +more one becomes convinced that their ethical views, taken as a whole, +can be more justly described as different from those of the upper +classes than as better or worse." ("The Next Street but One." By M. +Loane. London, 1907.) +</p> + +<a name="note22"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref22"><sup>22</sup></a> "When one begins to know the poor intimately, visiting the +same houses time after time, and throughout periods of as long as eight +or ten years, one becomes gradually convinced that in the real +essentials of morality, they are, as a whole, far more advanced than is +generally believed, but they range the list of virtues in a different +order from that commonly adopted by the more educated classes. +Generosity ranks far before justice, sympathy before truth, love before +chastity, a pliant and obliging disposition before a rigidly honest +one. In brief, the less admixture of intellect required for the +practice of any virtue, the higher it stands in popular estimation." +("From their Point of View." By M. Loane. London, 1908.) +</p> + +<p class="foot"> +It is difficult to see on what grounds Miss Loane implies—if she does +mean to imply—that the poor would do well to exchange their own order +of the virtues for the other order. Christianity certainly affords no +such grounds, nor does any other philosophy or religion, except +utilitarianism perhaps. +</p> + +<a name="note23"> </a> +<p class="foot"> +<a href="#noteref23"><sup>23</sup></a> Evolution is at present the last refuge of unscientific +minds which think they have explained a process when they have given it +a new name, just as chemists used to call an obscure chemical action +<i>catalytic</i> and then assume that its nature was plain. +<i>Evolution</i> means an <i>unfolding</i>. In that sense it is an +observed fact, though exactly how the unfolding is brought about is +still conjectural. But it does not matter for the purposes of my +argument whether human beings evolve by the transmission to offspring +of acquired characteristics, or by bequeathing to them as birthright an +environment that their fathers had to make. The material for +constructing any theory of mental, or joint mental and physical +evolution, is so hazy that one cannot do more than speculate. It may be +noted, however, that acquired mental characteristics appear to be more +transmissible, and less stable, than acquired physical characteristics; +and that mental evolution (in the broad sense again) proceeds faster +and collapses more readily than physical evolution. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" noshade> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POOR MAN'S HOUSE***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 26126-h.txt or 26126-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br> +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/6/1/2/26126">http://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/1/2/26126</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution.</p> + + + +<pre> +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license">http://www.gutenberg.org/license)</a>. + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS,' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Each eBook is in a subdirectory of the same number as the eBook's +eBook number, often in several formats including plain vanilla ASCII, +compressed (zipped), HTML and others. + +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks replace the old file and take over +the old filename and etext number. The replaced older file is renamed. +VERSIONS based on separate sources are treated as new eBooks receiving +new filenames and etext numbers. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org">http://www.gutenberg.org</a> + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +EBooks posted prior to November 2003, with eBook numbers BELOW #10000, +are filed in directories based on their release date. If you want to +download any of these eBooks directly, rather than using the regular +search system you may utilize the following addresses and just +download by the etext year. + +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/">http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/</a> + + (Or /etext 05, 04, 03, 02, 01, 00, 99, + 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90) + +EBooks posted since November 2003, with etext numbers OVER #10000, are +filed in a different way. The year of a release date is no longer part +of the directory path. The path is based on the etext number (which is +identical to the filename). The path to the file is made up of single +digits corresponding to all but the last digit in the filename. For +example an eBook of filename 10234 would be found at: + +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/0/2/3/10234 + +or filename 24689 would be found at: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/6/8/24689 + +An alternative method of locating eBooks: +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL">http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL</a> + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** +</pre> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/26126-page-images/f0009.png b/26126-page-images/f0009.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5c1e7bf --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/f0009.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/f001.png b/26126-page-images/f001.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5f6e62b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/f001.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/f0010.png b/26126-page-images/f0010.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b082e91 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/f0010.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/f0011.png b/26126-page-images/f0011.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c67e67 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/f0011.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/f0013.png b/26126-page-images/f0013.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..11124db --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/f0013.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/f002.png b/26126-page-images/f002.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4bb5e2d --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/f002.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/f003.png b/26126-page-images/f003.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aedc225 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/f003.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/f004.png b/26126-page-images/f004.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5c306df --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/f004.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0001.png b/26126-page-images/p0001.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0748c7d --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0001.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0002.png b/26126-page-images/p0002.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..359e2f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0002.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0003.png b/26126-page-images/p0003.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..31604f0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0003.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0004.png b/26126-page-images/p0004.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..01bf9be --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0004.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0005.png b/26126-page-images/p0005.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e48624 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0005.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0006.png b/26126-page-images/p0006.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5ca4732 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0006.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0007.png b/26126-page-images/p0007.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c75c029 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0007.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0008.png b/26126-page-images/p0008.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..382e644 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0008.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0009.png b/26126-page-images/p0009.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c085124 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0009.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0010.png b/26126-page-images/p0010.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2645cc9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0010.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0011.png b/26126-page-images/p0011.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..db78f03 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0011.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0012.png b/26126-page-images/p0012.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e754f95 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0012.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0013.png b/26126-page-images/p0013.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b26c8b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0013.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0014.png b/26126-page-images/p0014.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc5e37f --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0014.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0015.png b/26126-page-images/p0015.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..23b6500 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0015.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0016.png b/26126-page-images/p0016.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a948b6 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0016.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0017.png b/26126-page-images/p0017.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5b29b55 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0017.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0018.png b/26126-page-images/p0018.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2dbafbb --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0018.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0019.png b/26126-page-images/p0019.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..75e5e4d --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0019.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0020.png b/26126-page-images/p0020.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2d101cf --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0020.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0021.png b/26126-page-images/p0021.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44deea6 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0021.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0022.png b/26126-page-images/p0022.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aecb164 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0022.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0023.png b/26126-page-images/p0023.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0f63417 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0023.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0024.png b/26126-page-images/p0024.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4439331 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0024.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0025.png b/26126-page-images/p0025.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce98080 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0025.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0026.png b/26126-page-images/p0026.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dabc39b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0026.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0027.png b/26126-page-images/p0027.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b1054b3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0027.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0028.png b/26126-page-images/p0028.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..96535c5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0028.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0029.png b/26126-page-images/p0029.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eef6940 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0029.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0030.png b/26126-page-images/p0030.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7019294 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0030.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0031.png b/26126-page-images/p0031.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b2b89b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0031.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0032.png b/26126-page-images/p0032.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..322bb80 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0032.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0033.png b/26126-page-images/p0033.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4321499 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0033.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0034.png b/26126-page-images/p0034.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1660a2a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0034.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0035.png b/26126-page-images/p0035.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..85c680b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0035.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0036.png b/26126-page-images/p0036.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b493e2e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0036.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0037.png b/26126-page-images/p0037.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e1ed393 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0037.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0038.png b/26126-page-images/p0038.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0758e2f --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0038.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0039.png b/26126-page-images/p0039.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5ebdb58 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0039.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0040.png b/26126-page-images/p0040.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d71f86e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0040.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0041.png b/26126-page-images/p0041.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b0b2e2 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0041.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0042.png b/26126-page-images/p0042.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f089e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0042.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0043.png b/26126-page-images/p0043.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..204c54c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0043.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0044.png b/26126-page-images/p0044.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ae037bb --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0044.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0045.png b/26126-page-images/p0045.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9415e21 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0045.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0046.png b/26126-page-images/p0046.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d5ce1d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0046.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0047.png b/26126-page-images/p0047.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c55afd --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0047.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0048.png b/26126-page-images/p0048.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d1f85c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0048.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0049.png b/26126-page-images/p0049.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d1c4f34 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0049.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0050.png b/26126-page-images/p0050.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6347e32 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0050.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0051.png b/26126-page-images/p0051.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6fce6e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0051.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0052.png b/26126-page-images/p0052.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5c4ab5c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0052.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0053.png b/26126-page-images/p0053.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..be2c82f --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0053.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0054.png b/26126-page-images/p0054.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..da7650e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0054.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0055.png b/26126-page-images/p0055.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c81cb4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0055.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0056.png b/26126-page-images/p0056.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d97254 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0056.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0057.png b/26126-page-images/p0057.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f29ea0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0057.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0058.png b/26126-page-images/p0058.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..22bbd40 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0058.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0059.png b/26126-page-images/p0059.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a89ab35 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0059.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0060.png b/26126-page-images/p0060.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a02a400 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0060.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0061.png b/26126-page-images/p0061.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6eb96d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0061.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0062.png b/26126-page-images/p0062.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7423ca2 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0062.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0063.png b/26126-page-images/p0063.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c10f049 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0063.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0064.png b/26126-page-images/p0064.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..95d46d1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0064.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0065.png b/26126-page-images/p0065.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2125368 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0065.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0066.png b/26126-page-images/p0066.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6e3a50 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0066.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0067.png b/26126-page-images/p0067.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..41c1162 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0067.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0068.png b/26126-page-images/p0068.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..52f30ca --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0068.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0069.png b/26126-page-images/p0069.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..780b764 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0069.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0070.png b/26126-page-images/p0070.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..db8b7d5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0070.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0071.png b/26126-page-images/p0071.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f87ea96 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0071.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0072.png b/26126-page-images/p0072.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e0280d1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0072.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0073.png b/26126-page-images/p0073.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9cd01d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0073.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0074.png b/26126-page-images/p0074.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..91f2bb2 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0074.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0075.png b/26126-page-images/p0075.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ee28786 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0075.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0076.png b/26126-page-images/p0076.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c67729 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0076.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0077.png b/26126-page-images/p0077.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..51afb1d --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0077.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0078.png b/26126-page-images/p0078.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c2ec377 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0078.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0079.png b/26126-page-images/p0079.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e79e6d0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0079.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0080.png b/26126-page-images/p0080.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d486fca --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0080.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0081.png b/26126-page-images/p0081.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2bcfcaf --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0081.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0082.png b/26126-page-images/p0082.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..457a89f --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0082.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0083.png b/26126-page-images/p0083.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1e6ac7d --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0083.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0084.png b/26126-page-images/p0084.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca50762 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0084.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0085.png b/26126-page-images/p0085.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aa93270 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0085.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0086.png b/26126-page-images/p0086.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e37d8a9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0086.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0087.png b/26126-page-images/p0087.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44b9892 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0087.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0088.png b/26126-page-images/p0088.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..567f425 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0088.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0089.png b/26126-page-images/p0089.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0a43d36 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0089.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0090.png b/26126-page-images/p0090.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7d015a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0090.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0091.png b/26126-page-images/p0091.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2026413 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0091.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0092.png b/26126-page-images/p0092.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5a131b4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0092.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0093.png b/26126-page-images/p0093.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..02aa617 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0093.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0094.png b/26126-page-images/p0094.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8a1fdae --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0094.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0095.png b/26126-page-images/p0095.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..519d88b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0095.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0096.png b/26126-page-images/p0096.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c79faec --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0096.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0097.png b/26126-page-images/p0097.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7ae37f2 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0097.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0098.png b/26126-page-images/p0098.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e106707 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0098.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0099.png b/26126-page-images/p0099.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8154c25 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0099.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0100.png b/26126-page-images/p0100.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..24a64ad --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0100.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0101.png b/26126-page-images/p0101.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7053c6a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0101.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0102.png b/26126-page-images/p0102.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7613459 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0102.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0103.png b/26126-page-images/p0103.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..af14139 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0103.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0104.png b/26126-page-images/p0104.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5d6c2a0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0104.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0105.png b/26126-page-images/p0105.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3de1bdb --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0105.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0106.png b/26126-page-images/p0106.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..89f09bd --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0106.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0107.png b/26126-page-images/p0107.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c1c93b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0107.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0108.png b/26126-page-images/p0108.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d8b13a3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0108.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0109.png b/26126-page-images/p0109.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a0b2d5f --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0109.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0110.png b/26126-page-images/p0110.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5b99f83 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0110.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0111.png b/26126-page-images/p0111.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f1a4269 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0111.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0112.png b/26126-page-images/p0112.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4234542 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0112.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0113.png b/26126-page-images/p0113.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d2b799c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0113.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0114.png b/26126-page-images/p0114.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..36e3b26 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0114.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0115.png b/26126-page-images/p0115.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7dbb15f --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0115.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0116.png b/26126-page-images/p0116.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b42267 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0116.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0117.png b/26126-page-images/p0117.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..def93e3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0117.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0118.png b/26126-page-images/p0118.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e05a107 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0118.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0119.png b/26126-page-images/p0119.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4c144ba --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0119.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0120.png b/26126-page-images/p0120.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fa1d2b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0120.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0121.png b/26126-page-images/p0121.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..659a9c8 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0121.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0122.png b/26126-page-images/p0122.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ccc3ba9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0122.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0123.png b/26126-page-images/p0123.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..acbbb6e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0123.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0124.png b/26126-page-images/p0124.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..12f3f44 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0124.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0125.png b/26126-page-images/p0125.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..997de54 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0125.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0126.png b/26126-page-images/p0126.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bf9ee3b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0126.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0127.png b/26126-page-images/p0127.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5361d09 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0127.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0128.png b/26126-page-images/p0128.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb8bd77 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0128.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0129.png b/26126-page-images/p0129.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4a4c709 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0129.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0130.png b/26126-page-images/p0130.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cdf48ef --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0130.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0131.png b/26126-page-images/p0131.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..723decb --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0131.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0132.png b/26126-page-images/p0132.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a996ce1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0132.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0133.png b/26126-page-images/p0133.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1bda456 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0133.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0134.png b/26126-page-images/p0134.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b64001a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0134.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0135.png b/26126-page-images/p0135.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..02d18c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0135.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0136.png b/26126-page-images/p0136.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e3d11a4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0136.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0137.png b/26126-page-images/p0137.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e2f9ae4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0137.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0138.png b/26126-page-images/p0138.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9a5b74 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0138.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0139.png b/26126-page-images/p0139.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..65eff12 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0139.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0140.png b/26126-page-images/p0140.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9437aef --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0140.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0141.png b/26126-page-images/p0141.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..50047ff --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0141.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0142.png b/26126-page-images/p0142.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..61214e5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0142.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0143.png b/26126-page-images/p0143.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..198159b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0143.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0144.png b/26126-page-images/p0144.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ab8615a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0144.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0145.png b/26126-page-images/p0145.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f8c343 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0145.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0146.png b/26126-page-images/p0146.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..91f39e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0146.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0147.png b/26126-page-images/p0147.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3ca8115 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0147.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0148.png b/26126-page-images/p0148.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..55366ce --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0148.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0149.png b/26126-page-images/p0149.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eee1a0e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0149.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0150.png b/26126-page-images/p0150.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea7ca9a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0150.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0151.png b/26126-page-images/p0151.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4afd5b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0151.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0152.png b/26126-page-images/p0152.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b906d29 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0152.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0153.png b/26126-page-images/p0153.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3166cb0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0153.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0154.png b/26126-page-images/p0154.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b6e441 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0154.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0155.png b/26126-page-images/p0155.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..24c921b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0155.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0156.png b/26126-page-images/p0156.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c7d913b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0156.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0157.png b/26126-page-images/p0157.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c3b01a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0157.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0158.png b/26126-page-images/p0158.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a1bd79 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0158.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0159.png b/26126-page-images/p0159.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0490de9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0159.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0160.png b/26126-page-images/p0160.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e608f7b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0160.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0161.png b/26126-page-images/p0161.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..10e9df6 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0161.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0162.png b/26126-page-images/p0162.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba64fad --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0162.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0163.png b/26126-page-images/p0163.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..723013e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0163.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0164.png b/26126-page-images/p0164.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..82716ec --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0164.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0165.png b/26126-page-images/p0165.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f10089a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0165.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0166.png b/26126-page-images/p0166.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..83d1c26 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0166.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0167.png b/26126-page-images/p0167.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7e68b7c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0167.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0168.png b/26126-page-images/p0168.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..35f1123 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0168.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0169.png b/26126-page-images/p0169.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7fea9ec --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0169.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0170.png b/26126-page-images/p0170.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..632acd1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0170.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0171.png b/26126-page-images/p0171.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..84c592e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0171.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0172.png b/26126-page-images/p0172.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2183e3e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0172.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0173.png b/26126-page-images/p0173.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1ebe3c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0173.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0174.png b/26126-page-images/p0174.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a61dbe9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0174.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0175.png b/26126-page-images/p0175.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..df2238c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0175.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0176.png b/26126-page-images/p0176.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca7485b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0176.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0177.png b/26126-page-images/p0177.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..65b24fd --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0177.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0178.png b/26126-page-images/p0178.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e0f6476 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0178.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0179.png b/26126-page-images/p0179.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..831fc85 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0179.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0180.png b/26126-page-images/p0180.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3c8e5e3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0180.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0181.png b/26126-page-images/p0181.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8bb971c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0181.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0182.png b/26126-page-images/p0182.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c989af --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0182.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0183.png b/26126-page-images/p0183.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44c1d57 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0183.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0184.png b/26126-page-images/p0184.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d9bbe42 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0184.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0185.png b/26126-page-images/p0185.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b8a4aac --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0185.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0186.png b/26126-page-images/p0186.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b38e02 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0186.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0187.png b/26126-page-images/p0187.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f3164dd --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0187.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0188.png b/26126-page-images/p0188.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cd9ddce --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0188.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0189.png b/26126-page-images/p0189.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f9969b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0189.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0190.png b/26126-page-images/p0190.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ee86a89 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0190.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0191.png b/26126-page-images/p0191.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19892d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0191.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0192.png b/26126-page-images/p0192.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6ef0a0b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0192.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0193.png b/26126-page-images/p0193.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c61f48c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0193.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0194.png b/26126-page-images/p0194.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5222d11 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0194.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0195.png b/26126-page-images/p0195.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..27088cd --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0195.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0196.png b/26126-page-images/p0196.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0d3ae91 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0196.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0197.png b/26126-page-images/p0197.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..617bfbc --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0197.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0198.png b/26126-page-images/p0198.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d8dbd26 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0198.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0199.png b/26126-page-images/p0199.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b3d6afb --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0199.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0200.png b/26126-page-images/p0200.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b0edd27 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0200.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0201.png b/26126-page-images/p0201.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cb5f254 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0201.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0202.png b/26126-page-images/p0202.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c5fdba5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0202.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0203.png b/26126-page-images/p0203.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dd7e49a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0203.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0204.png b/26126-page-images/p0204.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3b9618c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0204.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0205.png b/26126-page-images/p0205.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bd9729e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0205.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0206.png b/26126-page-images/p0206.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ef8aef4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0206.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0207.png b/26126-page-images/p0207.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..89dd048 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0207.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0208.png b/26126-page-images/p0208.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3799afc --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0208.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0209.png b/26126-page-images/p0209.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..61d98dd --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0209.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0210.png b/26126-page-images/p0210.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b6a07d2 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0210.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0211.png b/26126-page-images/p0211.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f35b82b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0211.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0212.png b/26126-page-images/p0212.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a6b64d1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0212.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0213.png b/26126-page-images/p0213.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ead6776 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0213.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0214.png b/26126-page-images/p0214.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c5a30ef --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0214.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0215.png b/26126-page-images/p0215.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6dbd7a5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0215.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0216.png b/26126-page-images/p0216.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..61919e5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0216.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0217.png b/26126-page-images/p0217.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8be7326 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0217.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0218.png b/26126-page-images/p0218.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..319f6e6 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0218.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0219.png b/26126-page-images/p0219.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b48a707 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0219.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0220.png b/26126-page-images/p0220.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d61fa30 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0220.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0221.png b/26126-page-images/p0221.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a7d278e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0221.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0222.png b/26126-page-images/p0222.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7581fc6 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0222.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0223.png b/26126-page-images/p0223.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ab52d0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0223.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0224.png b/26126-page-images/p0224.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8985331 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0224.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0225.png b/26126-page-images/p0225.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..267fbf1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0225.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0226.png b/26126-page-images/p0226.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b3439d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0226.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0227.png b/26126-page-images/p0227.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..afea401 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0227.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0228.png b/26126-page-images/p0228.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d71772b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0228.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0229.png b/26126-page-images/p0229.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aa0270b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0229.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0230.png b/26126-page-images/p0230.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5599bfa --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0230.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0231.png b/26126-page-images/p0231.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..89eba06 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0231.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0232.png b/26126-page-images/p0232.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..290eeb9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0232.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0233.png b/26126-page-images/p0233.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9cf6e78 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0233.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0234.png b/26126-page-images/p0234.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..07bfc2e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0234.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0235.png b/26126-page-images/p0235.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..307affc --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0235.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0236.png b/26126-page-images/p0236.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d9d3fe8 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0236.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0237.png b/26126-page-images/p0237.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dfea395 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0237.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0238.png b/26126-page-images/p0238.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..40fa559 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0238.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0239.png b/26126-page-images/p0239.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1937211 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0239.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0240.png b/26126-page-images/p0240.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6dc2357 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0240.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0241.png b/26126-page-images/p0241.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b9562ce --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0241.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0242.png b/26126-page-images/p0242.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b019761 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0242.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0243.png b/26126-page-images/p0243.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e7b446 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0243.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0244.png b/26126-page-images/p0244.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..16be977 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0244.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0245.png b/26126-page-images/p0245.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c94f885 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0245.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0246.png b/26126-page-images/p0246.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..670d1b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0246.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0247.png b/26126-page-images/p0247.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b9b8f20 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0247.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0248.png b/26126-page-images/p0248.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..459025b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0248.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0249.png b/26126-page-images/p0249.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..51a1f50 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0249.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0250.png b/26126-page-images/p0250.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b79850 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0250.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0251.png b/26126-page-images/p0251.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7e7f492 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0251.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0252.png b/26126-page-images/p0252.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c01781 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0252.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0253.png b/26126-page-images/p0253.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7463895 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0253.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0254.png b/26126-page-images/p0254.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f666849 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0254.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0255.png b/26126-page-images/p0255.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8b6c25d --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0255.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0256.png b/26126-page-images/p0256.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8895a32 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0256.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0257.png b/26126-page-images/p0257.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1e2dfcc --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0257.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0258.png b/26126-page-images/p0258.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9608921 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0258.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0259.png b/26126-page-images/p0259.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bc97b49 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0259.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0260.png b/26126-page-images/p0260.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..de55409 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0260.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0261.png b/26126-page-images/p0261.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..498529d --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0261.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0262.png b/26126-page-images/p0262.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..23fb9f1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0262.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0263.png b/26126-page-images/p0263.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c8c3fc7 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0263.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0264.png b/26126-page-images/p0264.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..025d220 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0264.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0265.png b/26126-page-images/p0265.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5c43e3e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0265.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0266.png b/26126-page-images/p0266.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f06c1d4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0266.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0267.png b/26126-page-images/p0267.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..68ce2a3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0267.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0268.png b/26126-page-images/p0268.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d3f241f --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0268.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0269.png b/26126-page-images/p0269.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3b0f1e2 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0269.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0270.png b/26126-page-images/p0270.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0ced6b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0270.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0271.png b/26126-page-images/p0271.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..905ec3c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0271.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0272.png b/26126-page-images/p0272.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f672a4c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0272.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0273.png b/26126-page-images/p0273.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..09118c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0273.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0274.png b/26126-page-images/p0274.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4ea28df --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0274.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0275.png b/26126-page-images/p0275.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9da3710 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0275.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0276.png b/26126-page-images/p0276.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..409d2df --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0276.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0277.png b/26126-page-images/p0277.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..db5afca --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0277.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0278.png b/26126-page-images/p0278.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce461af --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0278.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0279.png b/26126-page-images/p0279.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..90137b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0279.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0280.png b/26126-page-images/p0280.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d71f95f --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0280.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0281.png b/26126-page-images/p0281.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fc27bab --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0281.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0282.png b/26126-page-images/p0282.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..db33595 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0282.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0283.png b/26126-page-images/p0283.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b402a8f --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0283.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0284.png b/26126-page-images/p0284.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ae3456a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0284.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0285.png b/26126-page-images/p0285.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a18e84e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0285.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0286.png b/26126-page-images/p0286.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5979f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0286.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0287.png b/26126-page-images/p0287.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea00af3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0287.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0288.png b/26126-page-images/p0288.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..80d5557 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0288.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0289.png b/26126-page-images/p0289.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ce3ce1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0289.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0290.png b/26126-page-images/p0290.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..56e0e98 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0290.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0291.png b/26126-page-images/p0291.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3b3b7ba --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0291.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0292.png b/26126-page-images/p0292.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5cca1ad --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0292.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0293.png b/26126-page-images/p0293.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5620fd8 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0293.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0294.png b/26126-page-images/p0294.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..26a8521 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0294.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0295.png b/26126-page-images/p0295.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..827755d --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0295.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0296.png b/26126-page-images/p0296.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eff6af1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0296.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0297.png b/26126-page-images/p0297.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e49933 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0297.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0298.png b/26126-page-images/p0298.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c1b5a63 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0298.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0299.png b/26126-page-images/p0299.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca82526 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0299.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0300.png b/26126-page-images/p0300.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f70bc15 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0300.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0301.png b/26126-page-images/p0301.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3674399 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0301.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0302.png b/26126-page-images/p0302.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3173641 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0302.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0303.png b/26126-page-images/p0303.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bd87d72 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0303.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0304.png b/26126-page-images/p0304.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d176776 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0304.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0305.png b/26126-page-images/p0305.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0d6ae89 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0305.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0306.png b/26126-page-images/p0306.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b6ac03 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0306.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0307.png b/26126-page-images/p0307.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..484e02e --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0307.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0308.png b/26126-page-images/p0308.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fac4496 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0308.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0309.png b/26126-page-images/p0309.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea53716 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0309.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0310.png b/26126-page-images/p0310.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9217098 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0310.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0311.png b/26126-page-images/p0311.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8b1e8ae --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0311.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0312.png b/26126-page-images/p0312.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b76b0aa --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0312.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0313.png b/26126-page-images/p0313.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d96386b --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0313.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0314.png b/26126-page-images/p0314.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..169360a --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0314.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0315.png b/26126-page-images/p0315.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4d636c --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0315.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0316.png b/26126-page-images/p0316.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c5c55c6 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0316.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0317.png b/26126-page-images/p0317.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2e53e27 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0317.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0318.png b/26126-page-images/p0318.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..995248f --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0318.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0319.png b/26126-page-images/p0319.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..74f21c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0319.png diff --git a/26126-page-images/p0320.png b/26126-page-images/p0320.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..582cf19 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126-page-images/p0320.png diff --git a/26126.txt b/26126.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..92cec26 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9151 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Poor Man's House, by Stephen Sydney Reynolds + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: A Poor Man's House + + +Author: Stephen Sydney Reynolds + + + +Release Date: July 25, 2008 [eBook #26126] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POOR MAN'S HOUSE*** + + +E-text prepared by Malcolm Farmer and the Project Gutenberg Online +Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) + + + +A POOR MAN'S HOUSE + +by + +STEPHEN REYNOLDS + +"_We understand the artificial better +than the natural. More soul, but less +talent, is contained in the simple than +in the complex._"--NOVALIS. + + + + + + + +London: John Lane The Bodley Head +New York: John Lane Compy. MCMIX +All rights reserved + +Turnbull and Spears, Printers, Edinburgh + + + +TO +BOB +AND TO +EDWARD GARNETT + + + + +A few chapters, chosen from the completed work, have appeared in the +_Albany Review_, the _Daily News_ and _Country Life_. To the editors +of those periodicals the author's acknowledgments are due. + + + + +_PREFACE_ + + +The substance of "A Poor Man's House" was first recorded in a journal, +kept for purposes of fiction, and in letters to one of the friends to +whom the book is dedicated. Fiction, however, showed itself an +inappropriate medium. I was unwilling to cut about the material, to +modify the characters, in order to meet the exigencies of plot, form, +and so on. I felt that the life and the people were so much better than +anything I could invent. Besides which, I found myself in possession of +conclusions, hot for expression, which could not be incorporated at all +into fiction. "A Poor Man's House" consists then of the journal and +letters, subjected to such slight re-arrangement as should enable me to +draw the truest picture I could within the limits of one volume. + +Primarily the book aims at presenting a picture of a typical poor man's +house and life. Incidentally, certain conclusions are expressed +which--needless to say--are very tentative and are founded not alone on +_this_ poor man's house. Of the book as a picture, it is not the +author's place to speak. But its opinions, and the manner of arriving +at them, do require some explanation; the right to hold such opinions +some substantiation. + +Educated people usually deal with the poor man's life deductively; they +reason from the general to the particular; and, starting with a theory, +religious, philanthropic, political, or what not, they seek, and too +easily find, among the millions of poor, specimens--very frequently +abnormal--to illustrate their theories. With anything but human +beings, that is an excellent method. Human beings, unfortunately, have +individualities. They do what, theoretically, they ought not to do, +and leave undone those things they ought to do. They are even said to +possess souls--untrustworthy things beyond the reach of sociologists. +The inductive method--reasoning from the particular to the +general--though it lead to a fine crop of errors, should at least help +to counterbalance the psychological superficiality of the deductive +method; to counterbalance, for example, the nonsense of those +well-meaning persons who go routing about among the poor in search of +evil, and suppose that they can chain it up with little laws. Chained +dogs bite worst. + +For myself, I can only claim--I only want to claim--that I have lived +among poor people without preconceived notions or _parti pris_; neither +as parson, philanthropist, politician, inspector, sociologist nor +statistician; but simply because I found there a home and more beauty +of life and more happiness than I had met with elsewhere. So far as is +possible to a man of middle-class breeding, I have lived their life, +have shared their interests, and have found among them some of my +closest and wisest friends. Perhaps I may reasonably anticipate one +type of criticism by adding that I have felt something of the pinch and +hardship of the life, as well as enjoyed its picturesqueness. Since the +book was first written, it has fallen to me, on an occasion of illness, +to take over for some days all the housekeeping and cooking; and I have +worked on the boats sometimes fifteen hours a day, not as an amateur, +but for hard and--what is more to the point--badly-needed coin. It took +the gilt off the gingerbread, but it didn't spoil the gingerbread! + +Would it were possible to check by ever so little the class-conceit of +those people who think that they can manage the poor man's life better +than he can himself; who would take advantage of their education to +play ducks and drakes with his personal affairs. For it is my firm +belief that in the present phase of national evolution, and as regards +the things that really matter, the educated man has more to learn of +the poor man than to teach him. Even Nietzsche, the philosopher of +aristocracy, went so far as to say that _in the so-called cultured +classes, the believers in 'modern ideas,' nothing is perhaps so +repulsive as their lack of shame, the easy insolence of eye and hand +with which they touch, taste, and finger everything; and it is possible +that even yet there is more_ relative _nobility of taste, and more tact +for reverence among the people, among the lower classes of the people, +especially among peasants, than among the newspaper-reading_ demi-monde +_of intellect, the cultured class_. + +S. R. + +SEACOMBE, 1908. + + + + +_A POOR MAN'S HOUSE_ + + + + +I + + + EGREMONT VILLAS, + SEACOMBE, _April_. + + +1 + +The sea is merely grinding against the shingle. The _Moondaisy_ lies +above the sea-wall, in the gutter, with her bottom-boards out and a +puddle of greenish water covering her garboard strake. Her hunchbacked +Little Commodore is dead. The other two of her old crew, George Widger +and Looby Smith are nowhere to be seen: they must be nearly grown up +by now. The fishermen themselves appear less picturesque and salty +than they used to do. It is slack time after a bad herring season. +They are dispirited and lazy, and very likely hungry. + +These old lodgings of mine, with their smug curtains, aspidestria +plant, china vases and wobbly tables and chairs.... + +But I can hear the sea-gulls screaming, even here. + + +2 + +[Sidenote: _GEORGE GONE TO SEA_] + +Yesterday morning I met young George Widger, now grown very lanky but +still cat-like in his movements. He was parading the town with a couple +of his mates, attired in a creased blue suit with a wonderful yellow +scarf around his neck, instead of the faded guernsey and ragged +sea-soaked trousers in which he used to come to sea. What was up? I +asked his father, and Tony had a long rigmarole to tell me. George had +got a sweetheart. Therefore George had begun to look about him for a +sure livelihood. George was not satisfied with a fisherman's prospects. +"Yu works and drives and slaves, and don't never get no forarder." So +George had gone to the chief officer of coastguards without saying a +word to his father and had been found fit. George had joined the Navy. +He was going off to Plymouth that very day at dinner-time. + +It is like a knight of romance being equipped by his lady for the wars. +But what must be the difficulty to a young fisherman of earning his +bread and cheese, when all he can do for his sweetheart is to leave her +forthwith! There's a fine desperation in it. + +Tony seemed rather proud. "They 'ouldn't think as I had a son old +enough for the Navy, wude they, sir? I married George's mother, her +that's dead, when I wer hardly olden'n he is. I should ha' joined the +Navy meself if it hadn' been for the rheumatic fever what bent me like. +I am. 'Tis a sure thing, you see--once yu'm in it an' behaves +yourself--wi' a pension at the end o'it. But I'm so strong an' +capable-like for fishing as them that's bolt upright, on'y I 'ouldn't +ha' done for the Navy. Aye! the boy's right. Fishing ain't no job for a +man nowadays; not like what it used to be. They'll make a man of him in +the Navy." + +In the evening, after dark, I saw Tony again. He was standing outside a +brilliantly lighted grocer's shop, his cap awry as usual, and a reefer +thrown over his guernsey. Something in the despondency of his attitude +haled me across the road. "Well, Tony? George is there by now?" + +"Iss ... I-I-I w-wonder what the boy's thinking o'it now...." + +The man was crying his heart out. "I come'd hereto 'cause it don' seem +'s if I can stay in house. Went in for some supper a while ago, but I +cuden' eat nort. 'Tisn' 's if he'd ever been away from home before, yu +know." + +"Come along down to the Shore Road, Tony." + +It seemed wrong, hardly decent, to let his grief spend itself in the +lighted-up street. The Front was deserted and dark, for there was rain +in the wind, and the sound of the surf had a quick savage chop in it. +Away, over the sea, was a great misty blackness. + +As we walked up and down, Tony talked between tears and anger--tears +for himself and George, anger at the cussedness of things. He looked +straight before him, to where the row of lamps divided the lesser from +the greater darkness, the town noises from the chafing surf; it is the +only time I have ever seen a fisherman walk along shore without a +constant eye on the sea. + +"He's taken and gone away jest as he was beginning to be o' some use +wi' the boats, an' I thought he wer settling down. _I_ didn' know what +wer going on, not till he came an' told me he wer off. But 'tisn' +that, though I bain't so strong as I was to du all the work be meself; +'tis what he's a-thinking now he've a-lef' home an' 'tis tu late to +come back if he wants tu. He's ther, sure 'nuff, an' that's all about +it." + +In the presence of grief, we are all thrown back on the fine old +platitudes we affect to despise. "You mustn't get down over it, Tony," +I said. "That won't make it a bit the better. If he's steady--woman, +wine and the rest--he'll get on right enough. He's got his wits about +him; knows how to sail a boat and splice a rope. That's the sort they +want in the Navy, I suppose. _He_'ll make his way, never fear. Think +how you'll trot him out when he comes home on leave. Why, they say a +Devon man's proper place is the Navy." + +"Iss, they du. _I_ should ha' been there meself if it hadn' been for +the rheumatics--jest about coming out on a pension now, or in the +coastguards. I _be_ in the Royal Naval Reserve, but I ain't smart +enough, like, for the Navy. The boy...." + +"He's as smart and strong as they make 'em." + +"Aye! he's smart, or cude be, but he'll hae to mind what he's a-doin' +there. _They_ won't put up wi' no airs like he've a-give'd me. +Yu've got to du what yu'm told, sharp, an' yu mustn't luke [look] what +yu thinks, let 'lone say it, or else yu'll find yourself in chokey +[cells] 'fore yu knows where yu are. 'Tis like walking on a six-inch +plank, in the Navy, full o' rules an' regylations; an' he won't get fed +like he was at home nuther, when us had it." + +[Sidenote: _GROG AS A SLEEPING DRAUGHT_] + +"Why don't you go to bed and sleep, Tony?" + +"How can I sleep wi' me head full o' what the boy's thinking o'it all!" + +More walking and he calmed down a little. + +"Come and have some hot grog for a sleeping draught, Tony, and then go +home to bed." + +"Had us better tu?" + +"Come along, man; then if you go straight to bed you'll sleep." + +"I on'y wish I cude. The boy must be turned in by this time. 'Tis like +as if I got a picture of him in my mind, where he is, an' he ain't +happy--_I_ knows." + +When Tony went down the narrow roadway, homewards, he had had just the +amount of grog to make him sleep: no more, no less. That father's +grief--the boy gone to sea, the father left stranded ashore--it was bad +to listen to. While going up town, I wondered with how much sorrow the +Navy is recruited. We look on our sailors rather less fondly than on +the expensive pieces of machinery we send them to sea in. I don't think +I shall ever again be able to regard the Navy newspaper-fashion. It +seems as if someone of mine belongs to it.... + +Lucky George! to be so much missed. + +This morning, when I saw Tony on the Front, he was more than a little +awkward; looked shyly at me, from under his peaked cap, as if to read +in my face what I thought of him. He had slept after all, and spoke of +the hot grog as a powerful, strange invention, new to him as a sleeping +draught. When, in talking, I said that I have only a back bedroom and a +fripperied sitting room, and that my old lodgings do not please me as +they used to, he clapped me on the shoulder with a jollity intended, I +think, to put last night out of my mind. "What a pity yu hadn't let we +know yu cuden't find lodgings to your liking. Us got a little room in +house where they sends people sometimes from the Alexandra Hotel when +they'm full up. My missis 'ould du anything to make 'ee comfor'able. Yu +an't never see'd her, have 'ee? Nice little wife, I got. Yu let us know +when yu be coming thees way again; that is, if yu don' mind coming wi' +the likes o' us. We won't disturb 'ee." + +[Sidenote: _A NOISY PLACE_] + +Good fellow! It was his thanks. However I shall be going home +to-morrow. Tony Widger lives, I believe, somewhere down the Gut, in +Under Town, a place they call the Seacombe slum. You can see a horde of +children pouring in and out of the Gut all day long, and in the evening +the wives stand at the seaward end of it, to gossip and await their +husbands. Noisy place.... + + + + +II + + + SALISBURY, + _July_. + +A card from Tony Widger: + + Dear Sir in reply to your letter I have let to the hotel which is + full for the 28th july until the 6th Aus, but I have one little + room to the back but you did not say about the time it would take + you to walk down also John to Saltmeadow have let so you can have + that room if you can manage or you can see when you come down their + are a lot of People in Seacombe or you write and let me know and I + will see if I can get rooms for you if you tell me about the time + you will be hear from yours Truly Anthony Widger. + +Risky; but never mind. There is always the sea. It is something to have +the certainty of a bed at the end of a long day's tramp. Besides, I +want to see Tony, and George too, if by chance he is at home. And there +may be a little fishing. And-- + + And stepping westward seems to be + A kind of _heavenly_ destiny. + +That's the real feeling at the back of my mind. _I want_ to go west, +towards the sunset; over Dartmoor, towards Land's End, where the +departing ships go down into the sea. + + + + +III + + + SEACOMBE, + _July-August_. + + +1 + +After a hundred miles of dusty road, it is good to snuff the delicately +salted air. The bight of the Exe, where we crossed it by steam launch, +was only a make-believe for the sea. How wonderfully the slight +rippling murmur of a calm sea flows into, and takes possession of one's +mind. + +I stood by the shore and watched the boats, and was very peaceful. Then +I went down the Gut to the house that I guessed was Anthony Widger's. +Many children watched me with their eyes opened wide at my knapsack. A +pleasant looking old woman--short, stout, charwoman-shaped--came out of +the passage just as I raised my hand to knock the open door. "Are you +Mrs Widger?" said I. + +"Lor' bless 'ee! I ben't Mrs Widger. Here, Annie! Here's a gen'leman to +see 'ee." + +Mrs Widger, the afternoon Mrs Widger, is a quite slim woman +who--strangely enough for a working man's wife--looks a good deal +younger than she is. She has rather beautiful light brown hair and +dresses tastefully. I am afraid she will not feel complimented if the +old woman tells her of my mistake. + +Her manner of receiving me indicated plainly a suspended judgment, +inclined perhaps towards the favourable. I was shown my room, a little +long back room, with ragged wall-paper, and almost filled up by a huge, +very flat, squashy bed. After a wash-over (I did not ask for a bath for +fear of exposing the lack of one) I went down to tea. + +Bread, jam and cream were put before me, together with fairly good hot +tea from a blue, smoky, enamelled tin teapot which holds any quantity +up to a couple of quarts. Mrs Widger turned two guernseys, a hat, +several odd socks, and a boot out of a great chintz-covered chair which +lacked one of its arms. To my _made_ conversation she replied shortly: + +"Dear me!" "My!" "Did you ever...." She was taking stock of me. + +Presently she went to a cupboard, which is also the coal-hole, and +brought out an immense frying-pan, black both inside and out. She +heated it till the fat ran; wiped out it with a newspaper; then placed +in it three split mackerel. "For Tony's tea," she explained. "He's to +sea now with two gen'lemen, but I 'spect he'll be in house sune." + +Voices from the passage: "Mam! Tay! Mam, I wants my tay!" + +[Sidenote: _TEA-TIME_] + +A deeper voice: "Missis, wer's my tay? Got ort nice to eat?" + +It was Tony himself, accompanied by a small boy and a slightly larger +small girl. + +"Hullo, sir! Yu'm come then. Do 'ee think you can put up wi' our little +shanty? Missis ought to ha' laid for 'ee in the front room. Us got a +little parlour, you know.--I be so wet as a drownded corpse, Missis!" + +The two children stood on the other side of the table, staring at me as +if I were a wild beast behind bars which they scarcely trusted. "'Tis a +gen'leman!" exclaimed the girl. + +"Coo'h!" the boy ejaculated. + +Tony turned on them with make-believe anger: "Why don' 'ee git yer tay? +Don' 'ee know 'tis rude to stare?" + +"Now then, you children," Mrs Widger continued in a strident voice, +buttering two hunks of bread with astonishing rapidity. "Take off thic +hat, Mabel. _Sit_ down, Jimmy." + +"Coo'h! Jam!" said Jimmy. "Jam zide plaate, like the gen'leman, please, +Mam Widger." + +"When you've eat that." + +I never saw children munch so fast. + +Tony took off his boots and stockings, and wrung out the ends of his +trousers upon the hearth-rug. He pattered to the oven; opened the door; +sniffed. + +"Her's got summat for my tay, I can see. What is it, Missis? Fetch it +out----quick, sharp! Mackerel! Won' 'ee hae one, sir? Ther's plenty +here." + +Whilst Mrs Widger was helping him to the rest of his food, he ate the +mackerel with his fingers. Finally, he soaked up the vinegar with +bread, licked his finger-tips and turned towards me. "Yu'm in the +courting chair, sir. That's where me an' Missis used to sit when we was +courting, en' it, Annie? Du 'ee see how we've a-broke the arm? When yu +gets a young lady, us'll lend 'ee thic chair. Didn' know as I'd got a +little wife like thees yer, did 'ee? Ay, Annie!" + +He turned round and chucked her under the chin. + +"G'out, you dirty cat!" cried Mrs Widger, flinging herself back in the +chair--yet not displeased. + +It was a pretty playful sight, although Mrs Widger's voice is rather +like a newspaper boy's when she raises it. + + +2 + +This morning, when I arrived downstairs, the kitchen was all of a +caddle. Children were bolting their breakfast, seated and afoot; were +washing themselves and being washed; were getting ready and being got +ready for school. Mrs Widger looked up from stitching the seat of a +small boy's breeches _in situ_. "I've a-laid your breakfast in the +front room." + +Thither I went with a book and no uncertain feeling of disappointment. + +[Sidenote: _BREAKFAST IN THE PARLOUR_] + +The front room looks out upon Alexandra Square. It is, at once, +parlour, lumber room, sail and rope store, portrait gallery of +relatives and ships, and larder. It is a veritable museum of the +household treasures not in constant use, and represents pretty +accurately, I imagine, the extent to which Mrs Widger's house-pride is +able to indulge itself. But I have had enough at Salisbury of eating my +meals among best furniture and in the (printed) company of great minds. +The noise in the kitchen sounded jolly. Now or never, I thought. So +after breakfast, I returned to the kitchen and asked for what bad +behaviour I was banished to the front room. + +"Lor'! If yu don't mind this. On'y 'tis all up an' down here...." + + +3 + +I went yesterday to see my old landlady at Egremont Villas. She asked +me where I was lodging. + +"At Tony Widger's, in Alexandra Square." + +"Why, that's in Under Town." + +"Yes, in Under Town." + +"Oh, law! I can't think how you can live in such a horrid place!" + +On my assuring her that it was not so very horrid, she rearranged her +silken skirts on the chair (a chair too ornamentally slight for her +weight) and tilted up her nose. "I must get and lay the table," she +said, "for a lady and gentleman that's staying with me. _Very_ nice +people." + +[Sidenote: _ALEXANDRA SQUARE_] + +Under Town has, in fact, an indifferent reputation among the elect. Not +that it is badly behaved; far from it. The shallow-pated resent its not +having drawn into line with their cheap notions of progress. If Under +Town had put plate-glass windows into antique buildings.... Visitors to +Seacombe, not being told, hardly so much as suspect the existence of +its huddled old houses and thatched cottages. The shingle-paved Gut +runs down unevenly from the Shore Road between a row of tall lodging +houses and the Alexandra Hotel, then opens out suddenly into a little +square which contains an incredible number of recesses and sub-corners, +so to speak, with many more doors in them than one can discover houses +belonging to the doors. Two cottages, I am told, have no ground floors +at all. Cats sun themselves on walls or squat about gnawing fish bones. +A houdan cockerel with bedraggled speckly plumage and a ragged crest +hanging over one eye struts from doorstep to doorstep. The children, +when any one strange walks through the Square, run like rabbits in a +warren to their respective doors; stand there, and stare. Tony Widger's +house is the largest. Once, when Under Town was Seacombe, a lawyer +lived here--hence the front passage. It has a cat-trodden front garden, +in which only wall-flowers and some box edging have survived. Over the +front door is a broken trellis-work porch. Masts and spars lean against +the wall. The house is built of red brick, straight up and down like an +overgrown doll's house, but the whole of the wall is weathered and +toned by the southerly gales which blow down the Gut from the open sea. +Those same winds see to it that Alexandra Square does not smell +squalid, however it may look. At its worst it is not so depressing as a +row of discreet semi-detached villas. It is, I should imagine, a pretty +accurate mirror of the lives that are lived in it--poor men's lives +that scarcely anybody fathoms. If one looks for a moment at a house +where people have starved, or are starving.... What a gift of hope they +must possess--and what a sinking in their poor insides! + + +4 + +This morning they told me how my little hunchbacked Commodore died. He +had been ailing, they said; had come to look paler and more pinched in +his small sharp face. Then (it was a fisherman who told me this): "He +was in to house one morning, an' I thought as 'e were sleepin', an' I +said, 'Harry, will 'ee hae a cup o' tay; yu been sleeping an't 'ee?' +An' 'e says, 'No, I an't; but I been sort o' dreaming.' An' 'e said as +he'd see'd a green valley wi' a stream o' water, like, running down the +middle o' it, an' 'e thought as 'e see'd Granfer there (that us losted +jest before 'en) walking by the stream. A'terwards 'e sat on 's +mother's lap, like 's if 'e wer a child again, though 'e wer nearly +nineteen all but in size; an' 'e jest took an' died there, suddent an' +quiet like; went away wi'out a word; an' us buried 'en last January up +to the cementry on land." + +So the _Moondaisy_'s luckiest fisherman packed up and went. + + +5 + +It is astonishing how hungry and merry these children are, especially +the boys. They rush into the kitchen at meal times and immediately make +grabs at whatever they most fancy on the table. + +[Sidenote: _MAN AND GEN'LEMAN_] + +"Yu little cat!" says their mother, always as if she had never +witnessed such behaviour before. "Yu daring rascal! Put down! I'll gie +thee such a one in a minute. Go an' sit down to once." Then they climb +into chairs, wave their grubby hands over the plates, in a pretence of +grabbing something more, and spite of the whacks which sometimes fall, +they gobble their food to the accompaniment of incessant tricks and +roars of shrill laughter. Never were such disorderly, hilarious meals! +If Tony is here they simply laugh at his threats of weird punishment, +and if he comes in late from sea, they return again with him and make a +second meal as big as the first. Sometimes, unless the food is cleared +away quickly, they will clamour for a third meal, and clamour +successfully. What digestions they must have to gobble so much and so +fast! + +To judge by their way of talking, they divide the world into folk and +gentlefolk. "Who gie'd thee thic ha'penny?" Mrs Widger asked Jimmy. + +"A man, to beach." + +"G'out!" said Mabel. "Twas a gen'leman." + +"Well...." + +"Well, that ain't a _man_!" + +Usually, at breakfast time, the voices of Tony's small nieces may be +heard coming down the passage: "Aun-tieAnn-ie! Aunt-ieAnn-ie!" Their +tousled, tow-coloured little heads peep round the doorway. If we have +not yet finished eating, they are promptly ordered to 'get 'long home +to mother.' Otherwise, they come right in and remain standing in the +middle of the room, apparently to view me. Unable to remember which is +Dora and which Dolly, I have nicknamed them according to their hair, +Straighty and Curley. What they think of things, there is no knowing; +for they blush at direct questions and turn their heads away. So also, +when I have been going in and out of the Square, they have stopped +their play to gaze at me, but have merely smiled shyly, if at all, in +answer to my greetings. Yesterday, however, they had a skipping rope. I +jumped over it. Instantly there was a chorus of laughter and chatter. +The ice was broken. This morning, after a moment or two's consideration +behind her veil of unbrushed hair, Straighty came and clambered upon +the arm of the courting chair--dabbed a clammy little hand down my +neck, whilst Curley plumped her fist on my knee and stayed looking into +my face with very wondering smiling blue eyes. By the simple act of +jumping a rope, I had gained their confidence; had proved I was really +a fellow creature, I suppose. Now, when I pass through the Square, some +small boy is sure to call out, "Where yu going?" And my name is +brandished about among the children as if I were a pet animal. They +have appropriated me. They have tamed that mysterious wild beast, 'the +gen'leman.' + +One boy, Jimmy--a very fair-headed, blue-eyed, chubby little chap, +seven years old--Tony's eldest boy at home--seems to have taken a +particular fancy to me. Whether it began with bananas, or with my +giving him a pick-a-back to the top of the cliffs, I hardly know. At +all events he has decided that I am a desirable friend. He has shown me +his small properties--his pencil, and his boats that he makes out of a +piece of wood with wing-feathers for sails and a piece of tin, stuck +into the bottom, for centre-keel;--has told me what standard he is in +at school; and one of the first things I hear whenever he comes into +the house, is: "Mam! Wher's Mister Ronals?" + +[Sidenote: _JIMMY OUT TO TEA_] + +To-day, on my way to the Tuckers' to tea, I passed Jimmy's school. The +boys were just let loose. Jimmy left a yelling group of them to come +along with me. Nearby the Tuckers' gate, I told him where I was going, +and said _Good-bye_. Jimmy fell behind. But whilst we were at tea, I +repeatedly saw a white head sneaking round the laurels outside the +window, and blue eyes peeping. Miss Tucker had him in; whereupon, +rather shyly, with hands horribly grubby from the school slates, Jimmy +ate much bread and butter and many cakelets, and ended up by tucking +three apples into his blouse. He came home very pleased indeed with +himself. + +Tony was almost angry. "However come'd 'ee, Missis, to let 'em go out +to a gen'leman's to tay in thic mess?" + +"Stupid! How cude I help o'it?" + +"What did 'ee think o'it, Jimmy?" + +"The lady gie'd I dree apples!" + +Tony, though shocked, was also pleased; Jimmy delighted. Every now and +then he draws himself up with a "Coo'h! I been out to tay wi' Mister +Ronals!" + +They have a strange way, these children, of placing their hands on one, +smiling up into one's face, and saying nothing. It has the effect of +making one feel their separate, distinct personalities, and, +additionally, of making one feel rather proud of the approbation of +those small personages who think so much and divulge so little. + + +6 + +There has been no fishing. Either the sea has been too rough to ride to +a slingstone[1] for blinn and conger, or else too calm, so that the +mackerel hookers[2] could not sail out and therefore no fresh bait was +to be had. It is quite useless to fish for conger with stale bait. Tony +tells me that I ought to be here in a month's time, when he will have +fewer pleasure parties to attend to, and will go out for mackerel, +rowing if he cannot sail. He says there will _have_ to be a good +September hooking season, because, though the summer has been fair, the +fisherfolk have not succeeded in putting by enough money to last out +the winter, should the herrings fail to come into the bay, as they have +failed the last few years. I should like to _work_ at the mackerel +hooking with him. Indeed, although I am looking forward to a glorious +tramp across Dartmoor, yet I am more than half sorry that I have a room +bespoken at Prince Town for the day after to-morrow. + + [1] A heavy stone used instead of an anchor over rocks, among + which an anchor might get stuck and lost. + + [2] After the end of July, the mackerel are mostly caught not in + nets, but by trailing a line behind a sailing boat. + +[Sidenote: _AN INOPPORTUNE REMARK_] + +Putting aside one or two things that are unpleasant--a few +disagreeables resolutely faced--it is wonderful how rapidly one feels +at home here. The welcome, the goodfellowship, is so satisfying. This +morning, the visitor from the hotel, who has Mrs Widger's front +room, so far presumed on the fact that we were educated men among +uneducated--both gen'lemen, Tony would say--as to remark flippantly +though not ungenially, "The Widgers are not bad sorts, are they? I +say, what a mouth Mrs Widger's got!" + +Mrs Widger has a noticeably wide mouth; I know that perfectly well; but +I can hardly say how indignant I felt at his light remark; how +insulted; as if he had spoken slightingly of someone belonging to me. + + + + +IV + + + PRINCE TOWN, + _August_. + + +1 + +When I took leave of the Widgers, there was the question of payment for +my board and lodging. We were just finishing breakfast; the children +had been driven out, Mrs Widger was resting awhile, and the table, the +whole kitchen, was in extreme disorder. + +I asked Mrs Widger what I owed, and, as I had expected, she replied +only: "What you'm minded to pay." + +"Three and six a day," I suggested. + +"Not so much as that," said Mrs Widger. "'Tisn't like as if us could du +for 'ee like a proper lodging house." + +"Don' 'ee think, Missis," said Tony, "as we might ask 'en jest to make +hisself welcome." + +It was out of the question, of course. The mackerel season has been so +bad. Mrs Widger shot at Tony a look he failed to see. Otherwise, she +did not let herself appear to have heard him. + +The discussion hung. + +"Say three shillings, then," I suggested again. + +"That 'll du," returned Mrs Widger, allowing nothing of the last few +minutes' brain-work to show itself in her voice. + +[Sidenote: _HOTEL LIFE_] + +Mrs Widger knows what it is to have to keep house and feed several +hungry children on earnings which vary from fairly large sums (sums +whose very largeness calls for immediate spending) to nothing at all +for weeks together. + +As I was setting out, Jimmy said to his mother: "Don' 'ee let Mister +Ronals go, Mam 'Idger." He followed me to the end of the Gut; would +have come farther had I not sent him back. That, and Tony's desire to +make me welcome, brightened the bright South Devon sunshine. I kept +within sight of the sea as long as possible. The little sailing boats +on it looked so nimble. I have a leaning to go back, a sort of +hunger.... + + +2 + +[Sidenote: _DAWDLING v. WALKING_] + +I don't think I can remain here. To-morrow I shall move on, and tramp +around the county back to Seacombe. The Moor is as splendid as ever, +but this hotel life, following so soon on the life of Under Town.... +Though the good, well-cooked food, neither so greasy nor so starchy as +Mrs Widger's, is an agreeable change, I sit at the table d'hote and +rage within. I am compelled to hear a conversation that irritates me +almost beyond amusement at it. These people here are on holiday. Most +of them, by their talk, were never on anything else. They chirp in +lively or bored fashion, as the case may be, of the things that don't +matter, of the ornamentations, the superfluities and the relaxations of +life. At Tony Widger's they discuss--and much more merrily--the things +that do matter; the means of life itself. Here, they say: "Is the table +d'hote as good as it might be? Is the society what it might be? Is it +not a pity that there is no char-a-banc or a motor service to Cranmere +Pool and Yes Tor?" There, the equivalent question is: "Shall us hae +money to go through the winter? Shall us hae bread and scrape to eat?" +Here, a man wonders if in the strong moorland air some slight +non-incapacitating ailment will leave him: illness is inconvenient and +disappointing, but not ruinous. There, Tony wonders if the exposure and +continual boat-hauling are not taking too much out of him; if he is not +ageing before his time; if he will not be past earning before the +younger children are off his hands. Here, they laugh at trifles, +keeping what is serious behind a veil of conventional manners, lest, +appearing in broad daylight, it should damp their spirits. There, they +laugh too, and at countless trifles; but also courageously, in the face +of fate itself. By daring Nemesis, they partially disarm her. With a +laugh and a jest--no matter if it be a raucous laugh and a coarse +jest--they assert: "What will be, will be; us can't but du our best, +for 'tis the way o'it." Here, they skate over a Dead Sea upon the ice +of convention; but there, they swim in the salted waters, swallow great +gulps, and nevertheless strike out manfully, knowing no more than +anyone else exactly where the shore lies, yet possessing, I think, an +instinct of direction. Here, comfort is at stake: there, existence. +Coming here is like passing from a birth and death chamber into a +theatre, where, if the actors have lives of their own, apart from +mummery, it is their business not to show them. It is like watching a +game from the grand stand, instead of playing it; betting on a race +instead of running it. The transition hither is hard to make. Retired +athletes, we know, suffer from fatty degeneration of the heart; retired +men of affairs decay. I have walked lately at five miles an hour with +the Widgers, and I do not relish dawdling at the rate of two with these +people here. Better risk hell for heaven than lounge about paradise for +ever. + + + + +V + + + UNDER TOWN, SEACOMBE, + _September_. + + +1 + +A fine tramp from Totnes--and such a welcome back! Jimmy met me +three-quarters of a mile up the road, very much farther than he usually +strays from the beach. "I thought as yu was coming this way 'bout now, +Mister Ronals. Dad's been out hooking an' catched five dozen mackerel +before breakfast. Mam's sick. I be coming out wiv yu t'morrow morning. +Dad couldn't go out after breakfast, 'cause it come'd on to blow. I've +'schanged my pencil, what yu give'd me, for a knife wi' two blades." So +anxious was he to take me in house that he scarcely allowed me time to +go down to the Front and look at the sea and at the boats lying among a +litter of nets and gear the length of the sunny beach. + +Mrs Widger hastened to bring out the familiar big enamelled teapot, +flung the cloth over the table and began to cut bread and butter. +"Coo'h! tay!" exclaimed Jimmy. "That's early, 'cause yu be come, Mister +Ronals." + +"Be yu glad Mr Ronals 's come back?" his mother asked. + +[Sidenote: _THE CHILDREN_] + +"Iss...." + +"What for?" I asked jocularly. + +"'Cause yu gives us bananas--an' pennies sometimes." + +"'Sthat all yu'm glad for?" said Mrs Widger. "Pennies an' bananas?" + +"No vear!" said Jimmy; and he meant it. + +All the while, Tommy (Jimmy's younger brother, about five years old) +was sitting up to table, looking at the jam-jar with one eye and at me +with the other. He squints most comically, and is a more self-contained +young person than Jimmy. Four of the children are at home; Bessie, +Mabel, Jimmy and Tommy; George and the eldest girl are away. Bessie and +Mabel, too, are out the greater part of the day, either at school, or +else helping their aunts, or minding babies (poor little devils!), or +running errands for the many relatives who live hereabout. Both of them +are more featureless, show less of the family likeness, than the boys. +One cannot so easily forecast their grown-up appearance. At times, +during the day, they come in house with a rush, but say little, except +to blurt out some (usually inaccurate) piece of news, or to tell their +step-mother that: "Thic Jimmy's out to baych--I see'd 'en--playin' wi' +some boys, an' he's got his boots an' stockings so wet as...." + +"Jest let 'en show his face in here! _He_ shan't hae no tea! He shall +go straight to bed!" shouts Mrs Widger, confident that hunger will +eventually drive Jimmy into her clutches. + +The two girls, in fact, do not seem to enter so fully as the boys into +the life of the household, though they are always very ready to take up +the responsibility of keeping the boys in order. + +"Jimmy! Tommy--there! Mother, look at thic Jimmy! Mother, Tommy's +fingering they caakes!" + +"I'll gie thee such a one in a minute! Let 'lone.... Ther thee a't, +Mabel, doin' jest the same, 's if a gert maid like yu didn't ought to +know better." + +"Did 'ee ever hear the like o'it?" asks Tony. "Such a buzz! Shut up, +will 'ee, or _I'll_ gie thee summut to buzz for! Wher's thic stick?" + +The children merely laugh at him. + + +2 + +[Sidenote: _TONY'S WEDDING_] + +At supper to-night, Tony was talking about his second wedding and about +his children, who, dead and alive, number twelve. "Iss, 'tis a round +dozen, though I'd never ha' thought it," he said reckoning them up on +his fingers. "Ther be six living an' four up to the cementry, an' two +missing, like, what nobody didn' know nort about, did they, Annie? +Janie--that's my first wife, afore this one,--her losted three boys +when they was two year an' ten months old, an' one year an' seven +months, an' nine months old. An' her died herself when Mabel here was +six months old, didn' 'er, Annie? An' yu've a-losted Rosie, an' the +ones what never appeared in public. Our last baby, after Tommy, wer two +boys, twinses. One wer like George an' one like Tommy most; one wer my +child an' t'other wer yours, Annie. Six on 'em dead! Aye, Tony've a +see'd some trouble, I can tell 'ee, an' he ain't so old as what some on +'em be for their age, now, thru it all. But it du make a man's head +turn like." + +Mrs Widger's gaze at him while he talked about the dead children was +wonderful to see--wide-eyed, soft, unflinching--wifely and motherly at +once. + +"John," Tony continued, speaking of his youngest brother who has only +two children, "John du say as a man what's got seven or eight childern +be better off than a man what's got on'y two, like he, 'cause he don't +spend so much on 'em. 'Tis rot, I say! Certainly, he du spend so much +on each o' his as us du on two o' ours p'raps; but I reckon a hundred +pounds has to be wrenched an' hauled out o' these yer ol' rheumaticy +arms o' mine for each child as us rears up." + +"Yes--'t has--gude that," said Mrs Widger. + +"'Tisn' that I don' du it willingly. I be willing enough. But it du +maake a man du more'n he'd hae to du otherwise, an' it wears 'en out +afore his time. Tony's an ol' man now, almost, after the rate, though +he bain't but forty or thereabout, an' s'pose us has six or a dozen +more come along, Annie...." + +"Gude Lord! 'Twon't be so bad as that, for sure. An' if 'tis, can't be +helped. Us must make shift wi' 'em." + +Then they went on to talk about their wedding. Best remembered, +apparently, are the _hot_ wedding breakfast (an innovation then in +these parts), the Honiton lace that Mrs Widger's mother made her, and +the late arrival home from the village where they were married--a trick +which procured them quietness, whilst depriving the people in the +Square of an excitement they had stayed up half the night to witness. +"When us come'd home, 'twas all so dark and quiet as a dead plaace, an' +the chil'ern asleep upstairs, an' all," said Tony. + +"Yes, 'twer," Mrs Widger broke in, her eyes brightening at the +recollection of the successful trick. "But 'twer queer, like, wi' the +childern asleep upstairs what wer to be mine, an' wasn't. I did wonder +to meself what I wer starting on. Howsbe-ever I wer fair maazed all +thic day. _I_ wasn' ready when Tony drove out to where us lived, not +I." + +"No-o-o! Her had her sleeves tucked up like 's if her 'adn't finished +her housework. Her wern't dressed nor nothin' to ree-ceive me." + +"I didn' know what I wer doing all thic day." + +[Sidenote: _LOVE-PLAY_] + +"An' the parson, _I_ had to pay for he, an' he give'd the money back to +she 'cause her wer a nice li'I thing--bit skinny though. 'Twer a maazed +muddle like. _I_ ought to ha' had thic money be rights." + +"G'out! But I did the ol' parson up here. Us didn' hae no banns put up +to Seacombe. I told the clergyman to our home that Tony'd been livin' +there dree days, or dree weeks, or whatever 'twas, an' _he_ didn' know +no better. 'Twon't be the first lie I've told, says I to meself n'eet +[nor yet] the last. I saved thee thic money, Tony." + +"Ah, yu'm a saving dear, ben' 'ee. Spends all my money." + +"Well for yu! I should like to know what yu'd do wi' it if yu hadn't +had me to lay it out for 'ee." + +Tony did not wish to question that. The recollection of the wedding had +put him in high spirits. He got up from his second supper (so long as +food remains on the table he takes successive meals with intervals for +conversation between them), and pirouetted round the table singing, + + "Sweet Ev-eli-na, sweet Ev-eli-na! + My lo-ove for yu-u + Shall nev-ver, never die...." + +He dragged Mrs Widger out of her chair, whisked her across the room. +"There!" he said, setting her down flop. "'En't her a perty li'I dear!" + +Once again, after another little supper, he got up and held Mrs Widger +firmly by the chin, she kicking out at his shins the while. "Did 'ee +ever see the like o'it? Eh? Fancy ol' Tony marryin' thic! Wouldn' 'ee +like a kiss o'it? I du dearly. Don' I, Missis?" + +"G'out!" says Mrs Widger, speaking furiously, but smiling affectionately. +"G'out, you fule! Yu'm mazed!" + +Tony returned to his third supper quite seriously, only remarking: "I +daresay yu thinks Tony a funny ol' fule, don' 'ee?" + +[Sidenote: _BIRTH IN THE SQUARE_] + +That, I did not. Indeed, I begin to think them peculiarly wise. There +is the spontaneity of animals about their play, and a good deal of the +unembarassed movements of animals--with something very human +superadded. One reads often enough about the love-light in the eyes of +lovers, and sometimes one catches sight of it. Either frank ridicule, +or else great reverence, is the mood for witnessing so delicate and +strong, so racial a thing. Yet this love-light, seen in the eyes of a +man and wife who have been married ten years, and have settled down +long ago to the humdrum of married life, seems to me a far finer +manifestation of the hither mysteries, a far greater triumph. What +freshness, what perpetual rejuvenation they must possess! The more one +regards such a thing, the more magnificent and far-reaching it appears. +No philosophical bulwark against trouble can compare with it. Such love +ceases to be a matter for novels and selected moments and certain lusty +ages; ceases to be exceptional. It is the greatest of those very great +things, the commonplaces. Tony tells me that when he comes in at night, +cold from fishing, Mrs Widger always turns over to the other side of +the bed, leaving him a warm place to creep into. Mrs Widger says that +no matter what time Tony comes in or gets up, he never fails to make, +and take her up, a cup o' tay. So does their love direct the prosaic +details of living in one house together. I do not think I am wrong in +fancying that it percolates right down through the household, and even +contributes to the restfulness I feel here, spite of unorderly children +and the strident voices. "Yu dang'd ol' fule!" can mean so much. Here +it appears to be an expression of almost limitless confidence. + +Mrs Widger has put me this time into the front bedroom, which overlooks +the Square and has, through the Gut, a narrow view of the sea. + +Tony's sister, who lives almost next door, is giving birth to a child +this evening. I can see the light in her window--a brighter light than +usual,--and the shadows passing across the yellow blind. Many other +eyes are turned towards the window. There is a subdued chatter in the +Square. + + +3 + +Little did I foresee what sleeping in the front bedroom means. Tony's +sister gave birth to a boy about ten o'clock. On hearing that +everything was as it should be, I went to bed, but, alack! not to +sleep. For the subdued chatter grew into an uproar which continued till +fully midnight. All the women in the neighbourhood seemed to have come +this way; and they meg-megged, and they laughed, and when their +children awoke they shouted up at the windows from outside. I heard +snatches of childbearing adventures, astonishing yarns, interspersed +with hard commonsense, not to say cynicism--the cynicism of people who +cannot afford to embroider much the bare facts of existence or to turn +their attention far from the necessities of life. "Her'll be weak," one +woman said, "an' for a long time--never so strong as her was before. +'Tis always worse after each one you has, 'cepting the first, which is +worst of all, I say. But there, her must take it as it comes...." + +Sundry other bits of good practical philosophy I perforce listened to; +and at last, when everybody had turned in (I imagined their pleasant +lightheadedness as they snuggled under the bedclothes in the stuffy +cottage rooms--the witticisms and echoes of laughter that were running +through their heads); when, I say, everybody had turned in, an offended +dog in the hotel yard began to howl. + +If it were not that the window of the back bedroom is over the +scullery, the ash-heap and the main drain, I would ask to move back +there. + +In Under Town a birth makes the stir that is due to such a stupendous +event. + + +4 + +[Sidenote: _THE KITCHEN_] + +The Widger's kitchen is an extraordinary room--fit shrine for that +household symbol, the big enamelled tin teapot. At the NW. corner is +the door to the scullery and to the small walled-in garden which +contains--in order of importance--flotsam and jetsam for firewood, old +masts, spars and rudders, and some weedy, grub-eaten vegetables. At the +top of the garden is a tumble-down cat-haunted linhay, crammed to its +leaky roof with fishing gear. No doubt it is the presence everywhere of +boat and fishing gear which gives such a singular unity to the whole +place. + +The kitchen is not a very light room: its low small-paned window is in +the N. wall. Then, going round the room, the courting chair stands in +the NE. corner, below some shelves laden with fancy china and +souvenirs--and tackle. The kitchener, which opens out into quite a +comforting fireplace, is let into the E. wall, and close beside it is +the provision cupboard, so situated that the cockroaches, having ample +food and warmth, shall wax fat and multiply. Next, behind a low dirty +door in the S. wall, is the coalhole, then the high dresser, and then +the door to the narrow front passage, beneath the ceiling of which are +lodged masts, spars and sails. The W. wall of the kitchen is decorated +with Tony's Oddfellow 'cistificate,' with old almanacs and with a +number of small pictures, all more or less askew. + +There is an abundance of chairs, most of them with an old cushion on +the seat, all of them more or less broken by the children's racket. +Over the pictures on the warm W. wall--against which, on the other +side, the neighbour's kitchener stands--is a line of clean +underclothing, hung there to air. The dresser is littered with fishing +lines as well as with dry provisions and its proper complement of odd +pieces of china. Beneath the table and each of the larger chairs are +boots and slippers in various stages of polish or decay. Every jug not +in daily use, every pot and vase, and half the many drawers, contain +lines, copper nails, sail-thimbles and needles, spare blocks and +pulleys, rope ends and twine. But most characteristic of the kitchen +(the household teapot excepted) are the navy-blue garments and jerseys, +drying along the line and flung over chairs, together with innumerable +photographs of Tony and all his kin, the greater number of them in +seafaring rig. + +Specially do I like the bluejacket photographs; magnificent men, some +of them, though one strong fellow looks more than comical, seated amid +the photographer's rustic properties with a wreath of artificial fern +leaves around him and a broadly smiling Jolly-Jack-Tar face protruding +from the foliage. Some battleships, pitching and tossing in fearful +photographers' gales[3] and one or two framed memorial cards complete +the kitchen picture gallery. + + [3] Composite pictures apparently; made from a photograph of a + ship and of a bad painting of a hurricane. + +It is a place of many smells which, however, form a not disagreeable +blend. + +An untidy room--yes. An undignified room--no. Kitchen; scullery (the +scullery proper is cramped and its damp floor bad for the feet); eating +room; sitting room; reception room; storeroom; treasure-house; and at +times a wash-house,--it is an epitome of the household's activities and +a reflexion of the family's world-wide seafaring. Devonshire is the sea +county--at every port the Devonian dialect. It is probably the pictures +and reminders of the broad world which, by contrast, make Mrs Tony's +kitchen so very homely. + + +5 + +[Sidenote: _A DUTCH AUCTION_] + +Almost every evening, just now, Mrs Widger goes off to a Dutch auction +of hardware and trinkets at the Market House. She usually brings home +some small purchase, worth about half the money she has paid; but if +she were to go to an entertainment at the Seacombe Hall she would be +not nearly so well amused as by the auctioneer and the other +housewives, and at the end of the evening she would have nothing +whatever to show for her money. Besides, the children would never go +off to bed quietly if they imagined that she was going to a real +entertainment. As she did not return very early last night, Tony and I +got our own supper--bread, cheese, a great deal of Worcester sauce, and +a pint of mother-in-law [stout and bitter] from the Alexandra. Then we +drew up to the fire and smoked. John, healthy and powerful fellow, had +been arguing in the daytime on the beach, that if a youth cannot do a +man's work at seventeen, he never will. Tony disagreed. Twenty-five to +thirty-five, he says, is a man's prime for strength and endurance +together. Nevertheless, he is sure that he often did more than a man's +work long before he was seventeen, which led him to talk about his +boyhood, when Granfer and Gran Widger had frequently not enough food in +the house for their many children to eat. "Us had to rough it when I +wer a boy, I can tell 'ee," says Tony. "'Twer often bread an' a scraape +o' fat an' _Get 'long out o'it_!" + +[Sidenote: _TONY'S DUTIES_] + +At nine years old, Tony was put with old Cloade, the grocer, now dead; +and by the time he was twelve, he was earning four shillings a week, +not a penny of which he ever saw or had as 'spending money'; for his +mother used to go to the shop every Saturday night and lay out all poor +Tony's wages in groceries. The only pocket-money he ever received was a +copper or two 'thrown back' from what he could earn by going to sea for +mackerel early enough to return to work by half-past six in the +morning. Besides running errands, he had to clean boots and knives and +to scrub out and tidy up the bar, which in those days was attached to +every Devon grocery. Then he could go home to breakfast. And if old +Cloade was going up on land, shooting, Tony had to get up and wake him +at half-past three and to cork bottles or something of that sort before +the master started out for his day's sport. And again, if Tony had +fallen foul of any of the shop assistants during the day, had cheeked +them perhaps, or stayed overlong at meals, then, waiting till closing +time at eight or nine in the evening, they would send him a couple of +miles inland, to the top of the hills, with a late parcel of groceries. +His possible working day was from 3.30 a.m. to 10.0 p.m. + +The chief part of his work, when he was not cleaning up or running +errands, was the sorting of fruit and the cracking of sugar. Every nail +of his fingers has come off more than once on account of the damage +done them by the sugar-cracker. Better than any national event, he +recollects the introduction of cube sugar. "When they tubs o' +ready-cracked sugar fust come'd down to Seacombe, 'twer thought a gert +thing--an' so 'twas." + +Nearly every year an attack of (sub-acute?) rheumatic fever gave him a +painful holiday, during which he crawled about the crowded cottage at +home on his hands and knees. The one advantage of his irregularly long +hours was that, if work were slack, he could linger over his meals. It +was the assistants who kept a sharp eye on his movements. Them he +hated--and cheeked. "The more I done, the worse they treated me. An' as +I grow'd up an' did often enough more'n a man's work, so I got to know +it. One day I stayed home more'n an hour to breakfast, an' one on 'em +asted me wer I'd a-been, an' I said as I'd had me half-hour to +breakfast, an' he said as I'd had an hour an' a half, an' I told 'en +'twern't no business o' his an' dared 'en to so much as touch me or I'd +knock his head in, which I could easily ha' done--an' there wer the +master standin' by! 'Fore I knowed, he gie'd me one under one yer wi' +one hand, an' one under t'other yer wi' t'other hand; knocked me half +silly; an' said if he had any more o' my chake he'd send me going +thereupon. 'Iss, I said, 'an I _will_ go, an' if I can't pick up a +livin' on the baych wi' fishin' (I 'adn't no boats then, n'eet for +years a'ter), an' if I couldn't pick up a livin' wi' fishin', I'd go to +sea. An' I took an' lef the shop, an' went wi'out me pay due nor nort +further about it. + +"Well, I should think as I stayed away two or dree days, saying as, if +I couldn' live _by_ the sea, I'd go off _tu_ sea. By'm-by, ol' Mr +Cloade--I could al'ys get on all right wi' he hisself--'twer they +assistants.... Mr Cloade come'd down to baych an' said as he'd rise me +wages be two shillings, from four shillings to six a week. So I went +back. But 'twern't for long, for I wer turned seventeen then, an' +strong, an' I knowed that six shillin's a week, every penny o' which +mother laid out in groceries--p'raps givin' me dreepence for meself +latterly--that wern't no wage for me doing more'n a man's work, early +an' laate, at everybody's beck an' call. 'Twern't vitty. + +[Sidenote: _BRUISED ORANGES AND BRUISES_] + +"It come'd soon a'ter.... I wer sorting oranges, an' one o' the +assistants called like they al'ays did: 'Widger, Widger! _Widger!_ +Yer, Widger!' 'Twer al'ays, 'Widger! Widger!' in thic show--blarsted +row! 'I wants 'ee to take thees yer parcel to Mr Brindley-Botton's +(what used to live to Southview House) in time for lunch. Hurry up!'" + +Tony, in short, put a couple of the bruised oranges into his pocket, +ran off, and delivered his parcel at Southview House. On the way back, +he ate one of the oranges and, boyishly, threw the peel about outside +Mr Brindley-Botton's side gate. He heard someone shouting to him +and--but without turning his head--he shouted "Hell about it!" airily +back. Then, as it was the dinner hour, he loitered on the Green Patch +to play marbles with some other lads, and to share the second bruised +orange. On returning to Cloade's: + +"Whu did I see but Mr Brindley-Botton's coachman wi' a little packet in +white paper. 'Twas thic orange peel, all neatly done up, an' a li'I +note saying as I'd a-been cheeky to him, which I hadn't, not knowingly. +Mr Cloade, he called me into his little office, asted me what I'd been +doing, where I went, an' where I got the oranges. + +"'Bought 'em,' says I. + +"'Twas a lie, an' I hadn't no need for to tell it, seeing I was al'ays +free to take a bruised orange or two when I wer sorting of 'em. On'y I +wer frightened. 'Where did you get them?' he asked. + +"'Up to Mrs Ashford's for a penny,' says I. + +"'Did you?' + +"'Yes, sir,' says I. + +"'Are you telling me a lie? I can find out, mind.' + +"'No, sir,' I said. + +"'Be you sure you ain't telling of a lie?' + +"Then I broked down, an' I said they was bruised ones what I'd a-took. +Father, he wer working to Mr Cloade's then, fishing being bad, an' the +master called he. _He_ walloped me--walloped me with a rope's end. An' +I swore as I'd never go back no more, an' I didn't. Every time Father +tried to make me, I up an' said as I'd go to sea. + +[Sidenote: _OUT DRIFTING ALL NIGHT_] + +"Ay! for all I'm a man now, I 'ouldn't like to work like I did +then--more'n a man's work an' less'n a boy's pay, an' hardly a penny +for meself. I tells John _he_ don't know what 'tis to work like I did +then. _I_'ouldn't du it no more." + +But, with his father's boat, Tony did work far harder--hooking mackerel +at dawn, in with a catch and out to sea again, or up on land hawking +them round; out drifting all night; crabbing, lobster-potting, +shrimping,[4] wrinkling,[5] or taking out frights,[6] wet and dry, +rough and calm, day and night. "Aye, an' I be suffering from it now. +Thees yer bellyache what thins me every summer an' wears a fellow out, +don't come from nothing but tearing about then. I wer al'ays on the +tear, day an' night, in from sea to meals an' out again 'fore I'd had +time to bolt down two mouthfuls. Often I wer so tired that Father'd hae +to call me a dozen times afore I cude wake up, an' then I'd cry, _cry_, +if I wer ten minutes laate to work--when I had summut to du on land, +that was. Half the day I wer more asleep than awake, wi' bein' out +fishing all night. But I didn' let 'em see it. Not I! Rather'n that, +I'd go up to the closet an' catch off there for five minutes, before +they shude see I wern't fit to du me work. An' I never had nort o' me +own for years, for all I done. Whether I earned two pound, or thirty +shillings, or nothing at all, I never had so much as a penny for +pocket-money, to call me own. I had to take it all in house--aye! an' +tips too, when I got 'em. Father, he wern't doing much then, an' ther +were seven younger'n me. That's where my earnings went. An' me, as did +the work, was wearing Mother's boots an' Father's jacket." + + [4] Prawning. + + [5] Periwinkle gathering. + + [6] Freights, _i.e._ pleasure parties. + +When Tony was indisputably grown up, one half of what he earned went, +according to custom, to the boat-owner, in this case his father, +frequently had be thu to pay for repairs and new gear. That went on for +years after he was married--'hauling an' rowing an' slaving an' pulling +me guts out wi't!'--until, in fact, the present Mrs Widger insisted on +his buying boats of his own. + +[Sidenote: _THE DEAD NOT WHOLLY SO_] + +Our talk shifted to Tony's first wife, who died (and Tony almost died +too) as the result of the landlord's taking up the drains, and leaving +them open, in the height of a hot summer. Tony told me about her people +and her native place, a fishing village along the coast. He showed me +photographs of her, and a framed, pathetically ugly, imitation cameo +memorial, which is getting very dirty now. I knew he loved her very +much. He nearly went out of his mind when she died, leaving him with +four young children. The untidy little kitchen, with its bright fire, +its deep shadows and its white clothes hung along the line; Tony's +drooping figure, bent over the hearth in an old blue guernsey: the +contrasting redness of his face, and the beam of light from a cracked +lamp-shade falling across his wet, memory-stuck blue eyes.... The +kitchen seemed full of the presence of the long-dead woman whom Tony +was still grieving for in some underpart of his mind. "Iss, her was a +nice woman," he said, "a gude wife to me; a gude wife: I hadn't no +complaint to make against she." + +The one shabby sentence hit into me all his sorrow, that which remains +and that which has sunk into time. + + * * * * * + +The Mrs Widger that is, returned from the Dutch auction with an +elaborate badly-plated cruet. "Al'ays using up my saxpinces what I has +to slave for," said Tony. + +"G'out! 'Tis jest what us wants." + +"You won't never use it." + +"We'll hae it out on thy birthday--there! Will that zatisfy thee?" + +"Not afore then? I wer born at the end o' the year, an' that's why I +al'ays gets lef' behind." + +"Not a day before thy birthday! What'll yu be saying if I buys sauces +to put in all they bottles?" + +"Cut glass, is it?" + +"No! What d'yu think?" + +"What a woman 'tis! Gie yer Tony a kiss then." + +"G'out yu fule!" + +The wise fool took a kiss. We had a second supper and hot grog. We were +merry. But when I said _Good night_, I saw in Tony's eyes a recognition +that I had understood (so he felt, I think) some part of what he +seldom, if ever, brings up now to talk about. + +Only a yarn about a man's first wife.... If so, why did I go to bed +feeling I had been privileged beyond the ordinary? Wives die every day; +worn out, most of them. There came into my mind's eye with these +thoughts a picture of the open sea; yet hardly a picture, for I was +there in the midst of it. On the waves and low-lying clouds, and +through the murk, was the glimmer of a light which, I felt, would make +everything plain, did it but increase. For a moment it flickered +up--and there, over the stormy sea, I saw death as a kindly illusion. I +do not understand the wherefore of my little vision, nor why it made my +heart give one curious great thump.... + +A cats' courtship beneath my window broke it off. + + +6 + +[Sidenote: _THE "MOONDAISY"_] + +Five or six years ago, when I was ill and left Seacombe, as I thought, +for good, I did not relish selling the _Moondaisy_. I was too fond +of her. So I gave her to the two men who had asked for the first and +second refusals of her, and neither of whom possessed a small sailing +boat. But I reckoned without those superficial beach jealousies which +overlie the essential solidarity of the fishermen. Neither man used her +much. Neither man looked after her. She was a bone of contention that +each feared to gnaw. While the poor little craft lay on the beach, or +in the gutter above the sea-wall, the mice ate holes into her old sail +and her gear was distributed half-way over Under Town. + +Granfer, however, had in his cottage an old dinghy sail that fits the +_Moondaisy_. Her yard and boom were in his linhay, the sheet and +downhaul in Tony's. One oar, the tholepins, and the ballast bags have +not yet been found. I bent on the sail, spliced the sheet to the boom; +borrowed tholepins from Uncle Jake,[7] ballast bags and a mackerel line +with a very rusty hook from Tony, an oar from John--and, at last, put +to sea. + + [7] Granfer's brother, Tony's uncle. + +The wind--westerly, off land--was too puffy for making the sheet fast. +I held it with one hand and tried to fish with the other. In order not +to stop the way of the boat and risk losing the lead on the sea-bottom, +I wore her round to lew'ard, instead of tacking to wind'ard. A squall +came down, the sail gybed quickly, and the boom slewed over with a +jerk, just grazing the top of my head. Had that boom been a couple of +inches lower, or my head an inch or two higher.... I should have been +prevented from sailing the _Moondaisy_ home, pending recovery from +a bashed skull. Everything aboard that was loose, myself included, +scuttled down to lew'ard with a horrid rattle. A malicious little gush +of clear green water, just flecked with foam, spurted in over the gun'l +amidships. I wondered whether I could have swum far with a cracked +skull: the _Moondaisy_'s iron drop-keel would have sunk her, of +course. Why I was fool enough to wear the boat round so carelessly, I +don't know. + +Anyhow, I wound up the mackerel line; my catch, nil. Such an occurrence +makes one very respectful towards the fisherman who singlehanded can +sail his boat and manage five mackerel lines at once--one on the thwart +to lew'ard and one to wind'ard; a bobber on the mizzen halyard and two +bobbers on poles projecting from the boat. He must keep his hands on +five lines, the tiller and the sheet; his eyes on the boat's course, +the sea, the weather and the luff of the sail. Probably I know rather +more of the theory of sailing than he does; but, when a squall blackens +the sea to wind'ard, whilst I am thinking whether to run into the wind +or ease off the sheet; whilst by doing neither or both, I very nearly +capsize, or else stop the boat's way and lose my mackerel leads on the +bottom--he, almost without thinking, does precisely what is needful, +and another mackerel is hooked long before I should have brought the +boat up into the wind again. + +[Sidenote: _FISHERMEN'S SKILL_] + +The greatest charm of sailing lies in this: that it is the art of +making a boat move by dodging, by taking advantage of, a score of +possible dangers. Except when running before the wind, it is the +capsizing-power of the wind which propels the boat. The fisherman is an +artist none the less because his skill seems partly inborn; because he +sails his boat airily and carelessly, yet grimly--for life and the +bread and cheese of it. The 'poor fisherman' for whom appeals to +charity are made, as if he were a hardworking, chance-fed, picturesque +but ignorant and helpless creature, is more than a trader, more than a +skilled labourer in a factory. To a peculiar extent he sells himself as +well as his skill and his goods. He lives contingently on his own life. + + +7 + +All that day the wind out in the Channel was blowing fresh from the +sou'west, as we could see by the blackness of the horizon and the +saw-edged sea-line beyond the outer headlands. During the afternoon, a +ground-sea crept into the bay, silently rolling in like an unbidden +unannounced guest who will not name his business. And when, at the turn +of the tide, the breeze in-shore also backed to the sou'west, a busy +lop was superposed on the long heaving swell.[8] About half-past seven, +the Widgers were gathered together near their boats. + + [8] A _lop_ is a short choppy sea raised by the immediate action + of a breeze. A _swell_ consists of the long heaving waves which + follow, and sometimes precede, a storm. The diverse action of + different sorts of waves on a shingle beach is interesting. Short + seas (_i.e._ short from crest to crest), even when they are very + high, have not nearly the force or _run_ of a long, though much + lower ground-swell; that is they neither run so far up the beach + nor so greatly endanger the boats. All kinds of waves possess + more run at spring than at neap tides. A lop on a swell at spring + tide is therefore the most troublesome of all to the fishermen. + +"What time be it high tide?" asked Granfer. "'Bout ten, en' it?" + +"Had us better haul the boats up over?" said Tony. "Tides be dead, en't +they?" + +"No-o-o," replied Uncle Jake. "They 'en making." + +"'Tis goin' to blow, I tell 'ee," said Granfer. "See how brassy the +sun's going down. Swell coming in too. Boats up be boats safe." + +"Hould yer bloody row," said John. "What be talking 'bout? Plenty o' +time to haul up if the sea makes." + +"All very well for yu," Tony protested, "living right up to Saltmeadow. +If the sea urns up to the boats in the night yu won't be down to lend a +hand, no, not wi' yer own boats. 'Tis us as lives to the beach what has +to strain ourselves to bits hauling your boats up over so well as our +own." + +"Let 'em bide, then!" + +"Looks dirty, I say," said Granfer. "Might jest so well haul up as bide +here talking about it. _I_ shan't sleep till I knows the boats be all +right." + +"Thee't better lie awake then. An't got no patience wi' making such a +buzz afore you wants tu." With that, John shouldered his coat and +strode homewards. + +[Sidenote: _JOHN WIDGER_] + +The rest of us pulled the boats up, John's included, till their stems +touched the sea-wall, and we placed the two sailing boats, John's and +Tony's, close beside the steps, handy for hauling up over if need +should be. + +Tony and Granfer went in house. Uncle Jake watched them go with an +ironical smile on his wrinkled old face. "Don't like the looks o' this +yer lop on a ground-swell," he said. "There! Did 'ee see how thic sea +licked the baych? Let one o' they lift yer boat.... My zenses! 'Tis all +up wi' it, an' I should pick it up in bits, up 'long, for +firewood.--Well, John's gone home along...." + +John is the youngest, handsomest and most powerfully built of the +Widgers; the most independent, most brutal-tongued and most logical, +though not, I fancy, the most perceptive. The inborn toughness, the +family tendency to health and strength, which made fine men of the +elder Widgers in spite of their youthful exposure and privations, has, +in the case of John who underwent fewer hardships, resulted in the +development, unimpeded, of a wonderful physique. "Never heard o' John +being tired," says Uncle Jake. + +Premature toil did not bend him; what he is the others had it in them +to be, and by their labour helped to make him. Because his spirit has +never been so buffeted, let alone broken, by hard times, he is also the +most self-reliant. And like the majority of lucky men, he takes fate's +forbearance as his due and adds it to his own credit. Fair-haired, +blue-eyed, his clean-shaven face deeply and clearly coloured; a +combination of the Saxon bulldog type with the seafaring man's +alertness; his heavy yet lissome frame admirably half-revealed by the +simplicity of navy-blue guernsey and trousers,--it is one of the sights +of Seacombe to see him walk the length of the Front with his two small +boys. He lacks, however, the gift of expressing himself, except when he +is angry--and then in a torrent of thrashing words. He communicates his +good-will by smiling all over his face with a tinge of mockery in his +eyes and the bend of his long neck; whether mockery at oneself or at +things in general is not evident. (It is mainly, I think, by smiling at +one another that we remain the very good friends we are.) In any +discussion, his "Do as yu'm minded then!" is his signal for making +others do as _he_ is minded. The advantages possessed by him--health, +strength, clear-headedness, and good looks--he knows how to use, and +that without scruple. He is never hustled by man or circumstance; +seldom gives himself away; and seldom acknowledges an obligation. What +one might reasonably expect him to do in return for help or even +payment, he carelessly, deliberately, leaves undone, and performs +instead some particularly nice action when it is least of all +anticipated. His opinion is respected less because it is known, than +because it isn't known, and by playing in the outer world with a crack +football team he adds to his prestige here. "What du John say?" is +often asked when it doesn't matter even what John thinks. Without +gratitude for it, unconsciously perhaps, he exacts from others a sort +of homage, which is certainly not rendered without protest. "There's +more'n one real lady as John could ha' married if he'd a-been liked," I +heard Granfer say over his beer one day. "The way they used to get he +to take 'em out bathing in a boat.... Put 'en under the starn-sheets, I +s'pose--he-he-he-he-he! But they real ladies du tire o' gen'lemen +sometimes. Some on 'em had rather have a strong fellow like John. He +married out o' the likes o' us, as 'twas. Her what he married used to +eat wi' the gen'leman's family what her come'd yer with; sort o' +companion-nurse her was." + +[Sidenote: _A NICE DISTINCTION_] + +Once, when the _Moondaisy_ was mine, John charged me sixpence for +putting me ashore from the steamer, after he had been earning money +with my boat that very same day. There is no meanness in his face, and +I wondered who had taught him so to distinguish between the borrowing +of a private boat and the use of a craft that was on the beach for +hire--a perfectly sound distinction. Probably it was some +commercial-minded lodger or beach-chatterer, from whom he picked up the +opinion that nowadays, to get on, you must run with the hare and hunt +with the hounds--a precept which he quotes with cynical gusto but +carries out only so far as suits his feelings. He aims at being +businesslike, but the businesslike side of his character is the more +superficial. Pride will not allow him to boggle over bargains. "Take +it, or leave it," is his way. Most up-to-date in what he does do, he is +no pioneer, and follows a lead grudgingly when innovations are in +question. Most progressive outwardly, he is the most conservative at +heart. A reader of his daily paper, he speaks the broadest Devon of +them all; scrupulously groomed after the modern way, and a smoker of +cigarettes (he was laughed out of a pipe I've heard say), he still +wears the old-fashioned seaman's high-heeled shoes. Tobacco is his +obvious, his humane, weakness. What his other weaknesses are, I don't +know. He strikes one as master of his fate, never yet wrecked, nor +contemplating it. Did such a misfortune occur ... who knows what would +happen? He is now, in his youth, so full of strength. + + * * * * * + +About ten o'clock, Tony, who was snoozing in the courting chair (Mrs +Widger had gone on to bed) woke up with a "How about they boats?" I +went out to look. + +[Sidenote: _THE HIGH TIDE WAVES_] + +The sea was covered with that pallid darkness which comes over it when +the moon is hidden behind low rain-clouds. Out of the darkness, the +waves seemed to spring suddenly, without warning at one's very feet. +Every now and then, when a swell and a lop came in together, their +combined steady force and quick energy swept right up the beach, +rattling the pebbles round the sterns of the boats. For the better part +of an hour I waited. Then, after a sea had thrown some shingle right +into a boat, I called Tony. + +"'Tis past high water, en' it?" he said sleepily. + +"Thee't better come out an' see for thyself!" + +He dragged himself up and out. "'Tis al'ys like thees yer wi' the likes +o' us. 'Tis a life o'it!" + +"Aye," he said, "the say's goin' down now sure 'nuff. Better git in +house again. Raining is it?" + +"God! Look out!" + +A sea lifted Tony's and John's sailing boats; was sweeping them down +the beach. We rushed, one to each boat, and hung on. Another sea swept +the pebbles from under our feet--it felt as if the solid earth were +giving way. + +"Those was the high tide waves," said Tony. "If us hadn' a-come out +both they boats 'ould ha' been losted. Yu've a-saved John his--all by +chance. Aye! that's like 'tis wi' us, I tell thee. Yu never knows.--Be +'ee going to bed now?" + +I stayed out a little while longer: the loss of boats means so much to +men whose only capital they are. Just after Tony had gone in, the +clouds parted and the moonlight burst with a sudden glory over the sea. +In the moonglade, which reached from my feet to the far horizon, the +waters heaved and curled, most silvery, as if they were alive. That was +the wistful gentle sea from which, but a moment or two before, we had +wrested back our property--that sea of little strivings within a large +peace. I thought at the time that there was surely a God, and that as +surely He was there. For which reason, I was glad, when I came in +house, that Tony had gone on to bed. + + * * * * * + +This morning John asked me: "Whu's been moving my boat?" + +"The sea, last night." + +"Oh...." + +"I'm going to make a salvage claim on your insurance company." + +"H'm?" + +"Happened to be out here and hung on, or else she'd have been swept +down the beach." + +"Did you?" + +"That's it--while yu were snug." + +"Have 'ee got a cigarette on yu?--Match?--Thank yu." + + +8 + +[Sidenote: _MRS PINN_] + +When I came into the kitchen early last evening, there was an old woman +sitting bolt upright in the courting chair. At least, I came to the +conclusion that she really was old after a moment or two's +watchfulness. Her flowered hat, her shape--though a little angular and +stiff,--her gestures and her bright lively damson-coloured eyes were +all youthful enough. But one could see that her inquiet hands, which +were folded on her lap, had been worn by many a washing-day. Her skin, +though wrinkled, was taut over the outstanding facial bones, as if the +wrinkles might have opened out and have equalized the strain, had age +not hardened them to brown cracks--and the tan of her complexion had +old age's lack of clearness. As so often happens when the teeth remain +good in spite of receding gums, her mouth was tightly stretched +semicircular-wise around them, and the lips had become a long, very +long, expressionless line, shaded into prominence, as in a drawing, by +a multitude of lines up and down, from chin and nose;--a Simian jaw, +remindful of the Descent of Man. All the accumulated hand-to-mouth +wisdom of generations of peasantry seemed to lurk behind the old +woman's quick eyes; to be defying one. + +I was introduced to her--Mrs Pinn, Mrs Widger's mother. She was bound +to shake my proffered hand; she did it, half rising, with a comic +mixture of respect and defiance; then sat back in the courting chair as +if to intimate, 'I knows how to keep meself to meself, I du!' + +I went outdoors, leaving them to talk; helped Tony haul up the beach +his lumpy fourteen-foot sailing boat, the _Cock Robin_, and returned +with him to supper. + +"Hullo, Gran Pinn!" he roared. "Yu here! Didn' know I'd got a new mate +for hauling up, did 'ee? Have her got 'ee yer drop o' stout eet? Us +two'll take 'ee home if yu drinks tu much." + +"Oh yu...." screeched Mrs Pinn with facetious rage followed by a swift +collapse into company manners again. + +"Thees yer be my mother-in-law, sir." + +"Mr Whats-his-name knaws that, an' I knaws yu got he staying with +'ee--there!" + +"Well then, gie us some supper then." + +Mrs Pinn--'twas to be felt in the air--had been hearing all about me. +Beside her glass of stout and ale, she looked a little less prim and +defiant. But she was still on company manners. She sat delicately, on +the extreme edge of a chair, by the side of, not facing, her plate of +bread, cheese and pickles; approached them; mopped up, so to speak, a +mouthful and a gulp; then receded into mere nodding propinquity. Her +supper was a series of moppings-up. Me she kept much in her eye, and to +my remarks ejaculated "Aw, my dear soul!" or "Did yu ever?" I said with +feeble wit, in order to grease the conversation, that stout and bitter, +being called _mother-in-law_, was just the thing for Mrs Pinn. + +"Aw, my dear life!" she exclaimed, taking a mouthy sip. "What chake to +be sure!" + +It was Mrs Widger who, with a glint of amusement in her eyes, came +tactfully to my rescue. + +[Sidenote: _MY NIGHTCAP_] + +About ten o'clock, Mrs Widger took down two glasses and the sugar +basin, and set the conical broad-bottomed kettle further over the fire. +Mrs Pinn glanced at the top shelf of the dresser where my whiskey +bottle stands. Her bright eyes kept on returning to that spot. I should +have liked to ask Mrs Pinn to take a glass, but knew I could not afford +to let it be noised abroad that 'there's a young gen'leman to Tony +Widger's very free with his whiskey.' I dared not make a precedent I +should have to break; the breaking of which would give more +disappointment than its non-creation. Equally well, I knew that it was +no use going to bed without something to make me sleep.... I told Tony +I would go out and look at the weather. + +"Yu must 'scuse me 'companying of 'ee 'cause I got me butes off. My +veet _du_ ache!" + +On my return, the bright eyes were still travelling to and fro, from +bottle to glasses. I yawned, Tony yawned noisily, Mrs Widger +capaciously. Mrs Pinn was herself infected. "'Tis time I was home.... +Oh, Lor'!" she yawned. + +She went; and when I asked Tony to share my customary nightcap, it was +with ill-hidden glee that he replied as usual: "Had us better tu?" + +His native politeness prevented him from saying anything, however, and +Mrs Widger showed not a sign of having observed the little victory, so +meanly necessary, so galling in every stage to the victor. + +Tony declares that he will really and truly start mackerel hooking +to-morrow morning--"if 'tis vitty," and "if the drifters an't catched +nort," and "if 'tis wuth it," and "if he du." + + +9 + +A creaking and shaking in the timbers of the old house, very early this +morning, must have half awakened me; then there was a muffled rap on my +door. "Be 'ee goin' to git up?" + +"Yes.... 'Course.... What time is it?" + +The only answer was a _pad-pad-pad_ down the stairs. I looked out over +the bedclothes. The window, a grey patch barred with darker grey, was +like a dim chilly ghost gazing at me from the opposite wall. By the +saltiness of the damp air which blew across the room and by the grind +of the shingle outside, I could tell that the wind was off sea. The sea +itself was almost invisible--a swaying mistiness through which the +white-horses rose and peeped at one, as if to say, "Come and share our +frolic. Come and ride us." + +[Sidenote: _MACKEREL LINES_] + +Tony, sleepy and sheepish in the eyes, was pattering about the kitchen +in his stockings (odd ones), his pants and his light check shirt. The +fire was contrary. We scraped out ashes; poked in more wood and paper. +Soon a gush of comfortable steam made the lid of the kettle dance. The +big blue tin teapot was washed out, filled and set on the hob. The +cupboards and front room were searched for cake. Tony went upstairs +with a cup o' tay for the ol' doman and came down with a roll of +biscuits. (Mrs Widger takes the biscuits to bed with her as maiden +ladies take the plate basket, and for much the same reason.) + +Faint light was showing through the north window of the kitchen. "Coom +on!" said Tony. "Time we was to sea." He refilled the kettle, hunted +out an old pair of trousers, rammed himself into a faded guernsey and +picked up three mackerel lines[9] from the dresser. He took some salted +lasks from the brine-pot, blew out the lamp--and forth we went. After +collecting together mast, sails and oars from where they were lying, +strewn haphazard on the beach, we pushed and pulled the _Cock Robin_ +down to the water's edge, and filled up the ballast-bags with our +hands, like irritable, hasty children playing at shingle-pies. "A li'l +bit farther down. Look out! Jump in. Get hold the oars," commanded +Tony. With a cussword or two (the oars had a horrid disposition to jump +the thole-pins) we shoved and rowed off, shipping not more than a +couple of buckets of water over the stern. + + [9] The fishermen's line is very different from the tackle + makers' arrangements. It varies a little locally. At Seacombe, + the upper part consists of 2-3 fathoms of stoutish conger line, + to take the friction over the gunwale, and 5-6 fathoms of finer + line, to the end of which a conical 'sugarloaf' lead is attached + by a clove hitch, the short end being laid up around the standing + part for an inch or so and then finished off with the strong, + neat difficue (corruption of _difficult_?) knot. A swivel, or + better still simply an eyelet cut from an old boot, runs free, + just above the lead, between the clove hitch and difficue knot. + To the eyelet is attached the 'sid'--_i.e._, two or three fathoms + of fine snooding;--to the sid a length of gut on which half an + inch ofclay pipe-stem is threaded, and to the gut a rather large + hook. The bait is a 'lask,' or long three-cornered strip of skin, + cut from the tail of a mackerel. The older fishermen prefer a + round lead, cast in the egg-shell of a gull, because it runs + sweeter through the water, but with this form the fish's bite is + difficult to feel on account of the jerk having to be transmitted + through the heavy bulky piece of lead. + + The lines are trailed astern of the boat as it sails up and down, + where the mackerel are believed to be. When well on the feed they + will bite, even at the pipe clay and bare hook, faster than they + can be hauled inboard. River anglers and even some sea fishers + are disposed to deny the amount of skill, alertness and knowledge + which go to catching the greatest possible number of fish while + they are up. It is often said that the mackerel allows itself to + be caught as easily by a beginner as by an old hand. One or two + mackerel may: mackerel don't. In hooking, as opposed to fishing + fine with a rod, the sporting element is supplied by fish, not + _a_ fish; by numbers in a given time, not bend and break. The + tackle brought to the sea by the superior angler, who thinks he + knows more than those who have hooked mackerel for generations, + is a wonder, delight, and irritation to professional fishermen: + it is constructed in such robust ignorance of the habits, and + manner of biting, of mackerel, and it ignores so obstinately the + conditions of the sport. Likewise the fish ignore _it_. + +[Sidenote: _DAWN AT SEA_] + +Tony scrambled aboard over the starboard bow, his trousers and boots +dripping. "'Tis al'ays like that, putting off from thees yer damn'd ol' +baych. No won'er us gits the rhuematics." He hung the rudder, loosed +the mizzen. I stepped the mast, hoisted the jib and lug, and made fast +halyards and sheets. Our undignified bobbing, our impatient wallowing +on the water stopped short. The wind's life entered into the craft. She +bowed graciously to the waves. With a motion compounded of air and +water, wings and a heaving, as if she were airily suspended over the +sea, the _Cock Robin_ settled to her course. Spray skatted gleefully +over her bows and the wavelets made a gurgling music along the +clinker-built strakes of her. + +Tony put out the lines: tangled two of them, got in a tear, as he calls +it, snapped the sid, bit the rusty hook off, spat out a shred of old +bait, brought the boat's head too far into the wind, cursed the +flapping sail and cursed the tiller, grubbed in his pockets for a new +hook, and made tiny knots with clumsy great fingers and his teeth. +"An't never got no gear like I used tu," he complained, and then, +standing upright, with the tiller between his legs and a line in each +outstretched hand, he unbuttoned his face and broke into the merriest +of smiles. "What du 'ee think o' Tony then, getting in a tear fust +start out? Do 'ee think he's maazed--or obsolete? But we'll catch 'em +if they'm yer. Yu ought to go 'long wi' Uncle Jake. He'd tell 'ee +summut--and the fish tu if they wasn't biting proper!" + +By the time the lines were out, the dun sou'westerly clouds all around +had raised themselves like a vast down-hanging fringe, a tremendous +curtain, ragged with inconceivable delicacy at the foot, between which, +and the water-line, the peep o' day stared blankly. The whitish light, +which made the sea look deathly cold, was changed to a silvery sheen +where the hidden cliffs stood. From immaterial shadows, looming over +the surf-line, the cliffs themselves brightened to an insubstantial +fabric, an airy vision, ruddily flushed; till, finally, ever becoming +more earthy, they upreared themselves, high-ribbed and red, bush-crowned +and splashed with green--our familiar, friendly cliffs, for each and +every part of whom we have a name. The sun slid out from a parting of +clouds in the east, warming the dour waves into playfulness. + + 'Twas all a wonder and a wild delight. + +As I looked at Tony, while he glanced around with eyes that were at +once curiously alert and dreamy, I saw that, in spite of use and habit, +in spite of his taking no particular notice of what the sea and sky +were like, except so far as they affected the sailing of the boat,--the +dawn was creeping into him. Many such dawns have crept into him. They +are a part of himself. + +[Sidenote: _A TENDERHEART BY NATURE_] + +"Look to your lew'ard line!" he cried, "they'm up for it!" + +He hauled a mackerel aboard, and, catching hold of the shank of the +hook, flicked the fish into the bottom of the boat with one and the +same motion that flung the sid overboard again; and after it the lead. +Wedging the mackerel's head between his knees, he bent its body to a +curve, scraped off the scales near its tail, and cut a fresh lask from +the living fish. He is a tenderheart by nature, but now: "That'll hae +'em!" he crowed. + +The mackerel bit hotly at our new baits.[10] Before the lines were +properly out, in they had to come again. Flop-flop went the fish on the +bottom-boards as we jerked them carelessly off the hooks. Every moment +or two one of them would dance up and flip its tail wildly; beat on the +bottom-boards a tattoo which spattered us with scales; then sink back +among the glistening mass that was fast losing its beauty of colour, +its opalescent pinks and steely blues, even as it died and stiffened. + + [10] Undoubtedly, if the mackerel are only half on the feed, a + fresh lask is better than any other bait, better than an equally + brilliant salted lask. It is the shine of the bait at which the + fish bite, as at a spinner, but probably the fresh lask leaves + behind it in the water an odour or flavour of mackerel oil which + keeps the shoal together and makes them follow the boat. + +Suddenly the fish stopped biting, perhaps because the risen sun was +shining down into the water. The wind dropped without warning, as +southerly winds will do in the early morning, if they don't come on to +blow a good deal harder. The _Cock Robin_ wallowed again on the water. +"We'm done!" said Tony. "Let's get in out o'it in time for the early +market. There ain't no other boats out. Thees yer ought to fetch +'leven-pence the dizzen. We've made thees day gude in case nort else +don't turn up." + +While I rowed ashore, he struck sail, and threw the ballast overboard. +Most pleasantly does that shingle ballast plop-rattle into the water +when there is a catch of fish aboard. We ran in high upon a sea. +Willing hands hauled the _Cock Robin_ up the beach: we had fish to +give away for help. The mackerel made elevenpence a dozen to Jemima +Caley, the old squat fishwoman who wears a decayed sailor hat with a +sprig of heather in it. "Yu don' mean to say yu've a-catched all they +lovely fish!" she said with a rheumy twinkle, in the hope of getting +them for tenpence. + +"'Levenpence a dozen, Jemima!" + +"Aw well then, yu must let I pay 'ee when I sold 'em. An't got it now. +Could ha' gived 'ee tenpence down." + +With a mackerel stuck by the gills on the tip of each finger, I came in +house. The children were being got ready for school. When I returned +downstairs with some of the fishiness washed off, Mrs Widger was +distributing the school bank-cards and Monday morning pennies. (By the +time the children leave school, they will have saved thus, penny by +penny, enough to provide them with a new rig-out for service--or Sunday +wear.) There was a frizzling in the topsy-turvy little kitchen. + +[Sidenote: _A DARING RASCAL_] + +"Mam! Vish!" + +"Mam! I wants some vish. Mam 'Idger...." + +"Yu shall hae some fish another time." + +"No-o-o!" + +"Go on!" + +"Well, jam zide plaate then." + +Jimmy's finger was in the jampot. + +"Yu daring rascal!" shrieks Mam Widger. "Get 'long to school with 'ee! +Yu'll be late an' I shall hae the 'spector round. Get 'long--and see +what I'll hae for 'ee when yu comes back." + +"Coo'h! Bulls' eyes! Ay, mam? Good bye, Dad. Good bye, Mam. Bye, Mister +Ronals. Gimme a penny will 'ee?" + +"God damn the child--that ever I should say it--get 'long! _I'll_ hae a +bull's eye for 'ee. Now go on." + +A tramp of feet went out through the passage. + +Mrs Widger shovelled the crisp mackerel from the frying-pan into our +plates. Tony soused his with vinegar from an old whiskey bottle. We +lingered over our tea till he said: "Must go out an' clean they ther +boats--the popples what they damn visitors' children chucks in for to +amuse theirselves, not troubling to think us got to pick every one on +'em out be hand, an' looking daggers at 'ee when you trys to tell 'em +o'it so polite as yu can. Ay, me--our work be never done." + +"No more ain't mine!" snapped Mrs Widger, moving off to her washtub. + + +10 + +For the last two or three days there has been a large flat brown-paper +parcel standing against the wall on the far side of my bed. I have +wondered what it was. + +This evening, after we had all finished tea, while Tony was puffing +gingerly at a cigarette (he is nothing of a smoker) with his chair +tilted back and a stockinged foot in Mrs Widger's lap, Jimmy said, as +Jimmy usually says: "Gie us another caake, Mam 'Idger." He laid a very +grubby hand on the cakelets. + +"Yu li'l devil!" shouted his mother. "Take yer hands off or I'll gie +'ee such a one.... Yu'd eat an eat till yu busted, I believe; an yu'm +that cawdy [finical] over what yu has gie'd 'ee...." + +Tony took up the poker and made a feint at Jimmy, who jumped into the +corner laughing loudly. With an amazing contrast in tone, Mrs Widger +said quietly: "Wait a minute an' see what I got to show 'ee, if yu'm +gude." + +[Sidenote: _ROSIE'S PHOTOGRAPH_] + +She went upstairs with that peculiar tread of hers--as if the feet were +very tired but the rest of the body invincibly energetic,--and returned +with the flat parcel. She undid the string, the children watching with +greedy curiosity. She placed on the best-lighted chair an enlargement +of a baby's photograph, in a cheap frame, all complete. "There!" she +said. + +"What is ut?" asked Tony. "Why, 'tis li'l Rosie!" + +"Wer did 'ee get 'en?" he continued more softly. "Yu an't had 'en +give'd 'ee?" + +"Give'd me? No! Thic cheap-jack.... But 'tisn' bad, is it?" + +"What cheap-jack?" + +"Why, thic man to the market-house--wer I got the cruet." + +"O-oh! I didn' never see he.... What did 'ee pay 'en for thic then?" + +"Never yu mind. 'Twasn't none o' yours what I paid. What do 'ee think +o'it?" + +"'Tisn' bad--very nice," remarked Tony, bending before the picture, +examining it in all lights. "Iss; 'tisn' bad by no means. Come yer, +Jimmy an' Tommy. Do 'ee know who that ther is?" + +"Rosie!" whispered Jimmy. + +"What was took up to cementry," added Tommy in a brighter voice. + +"Iss, 'tis our li'l Rosie to the life (mustn' touch), jest like her +was." + +A moment's tension; then, "A surprise for 'ee, en' it?" Mrs Widger +enquired. + +"My ol' geyser!" + +The children's riot began again. "Our Rosie...." they were saying. Mam +'Idger, slipping out of Tony's grasp, carried the picture off to the +front room. She was sometime gone. + +Wordsworth's _We are Seven_ came into my mind: + + "But they are dead; those two are dead! + Their spirits are in heaven!" + 'Twas throwing words away; for still + The little maid would have her will, + And said, "Nay, we are seven!" + +I knew, of course, intellectually, that the poem records more than a +child's mere fancy; but never before have I felt its truth, have I been +caught up, so to speak, into the atmosphere of the wise, simple souls +who are able to rob death of the worst of its sting by refusing to let +the dead die altogether, even on earth. Rosie is dead and buried. I +perceive also--I perceived, while Tony and the children stood round +that picture--that Rosie is still here, in this house, hallowing it a +little. The one statement is as much a fact as the other; but how much +more delicately intangible, and perhaps how much truer, the second. + + +11 + +[Sidenote: _ROSIE'S DEATH_] + +While we waited for Tony to come in to supper, Mrs Widger told me about +Rosie's death. "It must be awful," she said, "to lose a child fo them +as an't got nor more. I know how I felt it when Rosie was took. Nothing +would please me for months after but to go up to the cementry, to her +little grave. 'Most every evening I walked up after tea--didn' feel as +if I could go to bed an' sleep wi'out. Tony had to fend for hisself if +he wanted his supper early. Ther wasn't no reason, but it did ease me, +like, to go up there, an' it heartened me a little for next day's work. +'Twas a sort o' habit, p'raps. What broke me of it was my bad illness. +[When the twins, 'what nobody didn' know nort about,' were born.] At +first, I used to think o' Rosie, when I were lyin' alone upstairs, most +'specially at night time if Tony wer out to sea an' it come'd on to +blow a bit. I used to think, if ort happened to Tony.... Our room to +the top o' the house, sways when it do blow. I don't trouble me head +about Tony when he's to sea ordinary times--expects 'en when I sees +'en--but then I wer weak, like, an' full o' fancies. An' after I got +about again I wer much too weak to go to cementry: I used to faint +every time I come'd downstairs. Howsbe-ever, I did come down again, an' +Tony used to go out and get me quinine wine and three-and-sixpenny port +an' all sorts o' messes, to put me on me legs wi'out fainting. 'Twas +thic illness as broke me o' going up to Rosie's grave." + +"You walk up now on Sunday evenings...." I hazarded, recollecting that +then the children run wild for a couple of hours and come in tired and +dirty to cry for their mam. + +"Yes...." said Mrs Widger. + +I saw that I had trespassed into one of the little solitary tracts of +her life. + +"One day," she continued, backing the conversation with an imperfectly +hidden effort, "when Dr Bayliss come to see me, Tony was asleep in the +next bed, snoring under the clothes after a night to sea. Dr Bayliss +didn' say nort, 'cept he said: 'Your husband's a fisherman, isn't he, +Mrs Widger?' But I saw his shoulders a-shaking as he went out the door, +an' that evening he sent me a bottle o' port wine out o' his own +cellar, an' it did me a power o' gude. Tony--he was that ashamed o' +hisself, though I told 'en 'twasn't nothing for a doctor to see +'en...." + +[Sidenote: _FRANKNESS AND SMUT_] + +At that moment Tony returned. He really was ashamed of the doctor +finding him in bed, whether as a breach of manners or of propriety was +not plain. Possibly the latter. He has an acute sense of decency, +though its rules and regulations are not the same as those of the +people he calls gentry. Our conversation here would hardly suit a +drawing-room. Tony, if he comes in wet, thinks nothing of stripping +down to his shirt. But, curiously enough, one of his chief complaints +about the people who hire boats, is their occasionally unclean +conversation. "The likes o' us 'ould never think of saying what they +du. Me, I didn' know nort about half the things they say till I wer +grow'd up an' learnt it from listening to the likes o' they. Yu'd +hear bad language wi' us an' plain speaking, but never what some o' +they talks about when they got no one to hear 'em 'cept us they hires, +an' they thinks us don't matter." Tony is right, I believe. Most of +the impropriety I used to hear at school, university, and in the +smoking room, though often little but a reaction against silly +conventions, a tilt against whited sepulchres,--was well-named _smut_. +It was furtive, a distortion of life's facts and inimical therefore to +life. Impropriety here, on the other hand, is a recognition of life's +facts, an expression of life, a playful ebullition. + +Tony, when he came in, enquired of Mam 'Idger what she had done with +the picture. "Did Rosie die in the summer?" I asked, remembering how +the children will run out to the milkman with a dirty can unless a +sharp eye is kept upon them, and how also the larder is fixed up over +the main drain. + +"Her died late in the autumn with convulsions from teething," Mrs +Widger replied. "An' her didn't ought to ha' died then but for Dr +Brown. When her was took ill, proper bad, I sent one of the maidens for +Dr Bayliss, but he was out to the country for they didn' know how long. +So off I sends the maid to Dr Brown, an' he sends back a message as he +cuden' attend Dr Bayliss's patients wi'out Dr Bayliss asked him. +Certainly 'twas late; but my blood jest boiled, an' I took Rosie into +Grannie's an' goes up myself. Rosie didn' belong to no doctor. Her'd +never had one. Howsbe-ever, Dr Brown says to me the same as he'd told +the maid, that he cuden' come. An' then he says, 'My good woman, I +_won't_ come!' Jest like that! My flare was up; I wer jest about to let +fly my mind at 'en--an' I remembered Rosie lying in convulsions to +Grannie's, an' flew out o' his house like a mad thing. Rosie wer all +but dead. Her was gone when Dr Bayliss come'd next morning." + +"Aye!" added Tony. "That wer it. Some doctors be kind, an' some don't +trouble nort about the likes o' us when they got visitors to run a'ter. +I don' say they treats the likes o' us worse'n other people; I don' +know: oftentimes they'm so kind as can be; but when they don't behave +like they ought to, other people has the means to make 'em sorry for +it, an' us an't. They knows that. Us can't do nort an' that's the way +o'it. Rosie didn' never ought to ha' died." + +"No-o-o!" said Mrs Widger. + +One can see the tigress in most women, in every mother, if one waits +long enough. I saw it in Mrs Widger then. If she ever has the whip-hand +of Dr Brown.... + + +12 + +This mackerel hooking, which is a two-man job though Tony could and +would do it by himself were I not here, has most fortunately raised me +out of the position of a mere lodger, a household excrescence, +tolerated only for the sake of certain shillings a week. It has +provided me with a niche of my own, which I occupy--at sea the mate on +a mackerel hooker, on shore a loafer 'ready to lend a hand,' and in the +house a sort of male Cinderella. It is far pleasanter, I find, to be a +small wheel in the machine than to remain seated on a mound of pounds, +shillings and pence--beflunkeyed, as if in a soulless hotel! + +[Sidenote: _THE EARLY CUP O' TAY_] + +Tony cannot fill his spare time by reading: it makes his long-sighted +eyes smart. On account of that, and of nights at sea, with rest taken +when and where possible, he has developed an amazing talent for +'putting it away'; that is, for sleeping. He can turn out perfectly +well at any hour, if need be, but at ordinary times he is most content +to follow somebody else's first. I on my part, sleeping indifferently +well, wake usually before dawn, and greatly dislike waiting for an +early cup o' tay. + +About half-past four I jump out of bed, creep downstairs and chop wood. +That warms me. Then with a barbaric glee, I scrape out the ashes, +sending clouds of dust over the guernseys and boots that have been set +near the fire to dry. No matter; being light and fire-dry, it will +brush off the one and shake out of the other. People who never light +fires at dawn can have no idea of the exhilaration to be obtained from +a well-laid, crackling, flaming fire. + +Tony appears at the door, half-dressed, yawning and stretching his arms +on high. "Yu an't been an' made tay, have 'ee?" he says with delighted +certainty. The cups are filled. He takes up Mam 'Idger's cup and +returns with the paper roll of 'Family Biscuits.' We forage for +tit-bits, feed standing, yawn again, and go out to 'see what to make +o'it.' + +Unless the sea is broken by the wind, there is about it just before +dawn a peculiar creeping clamminess. It seems but half awake, like +ourselves. It has no welcome for us. "Can't you wait," it seems to say, +"till I begin to sparkle?" + +Tony looks out over. "Had us better tu?" he asks with a shiver. + +"Why not?" + +"Shove her down then. There's macker out there!" + +By the time the sun is rising (it never rises twice the same) south of +the easternmost headland, Tony has worked himself into a tear over +self-tangling lines, and has been laughed out of it again. We are +perhaps a mile or two out, and if the mackerel are biting well, we are +hauling them in, swiftly, silently, grimly; banging them off the hook; +going _Tsch!_ if they fall back into the sea; cutting baits from fish +not dead. If, however, they are not on the feed, we sing blatant or +romantic or sentimental songs (it is all one out there), and laugh with +a hearty sea-loudness. And if the mackerel will not bite at all we +invent a score of reasons and blame a dozen people and things. But +there we are--ourselves, the sea, and the heavenly dawn--the sea +heaving up to us, and ourselves ever heaving higher, up and over the +lop. It exalts us with it. We hardly need to talk. A straight look in +the face, a smile.... We are in the more immediate presence of one +another. Did we lie to each other with our tongues, the greater part of +our communications would yet be truth. + +[Sidenote: _THE PRICE OF FISH_] + +We sail or row home, turn the mackerel out on the beach, count them +back into the box, wash the blood off them, and stoop low, turning them +over and over, whilst we haggle for our price. The other day, with the +exuberance of the sea still upon me, I slapped old Jemima Caley's rusty +shoulder and lo! she rose her price one penny. + +"Damme!" she said, "I'll gie 'ee ninepence a dozen if I has to go wi' +out me dinner for't! They _be_ fine fish." + +"_Sweet_ fish, Jemima!" + +"Lor' bless 'ee, yes!" + +But she hawked them at twopence-halfpenny or threepence a pair +according to the customer. And now, her wry sly smile, peeping from +underneath her battered hat-brim, meets me at every back-street corner. + +Soap and water, the buzz of the children, their mother's loud voice, +and mackerel for breakfast.... It is all quite prosaic and perfectly +commonplace, it is far from idyllic; yet it would need the touch of a +poet to bring out the wonder, the mystery, of it all: to light up the +door of the soul-house through which we pass to and fro, scarce +knowing. + +Tony comes in early to dinner after a morning's frighting. His object +is to get an hour or so for sleep before the visitors come out from +their later lunch. Mam 'Idger says we are lazy; that she 'don't gie way +to it, she don't!' (She did a couple of days ago.) When the +after-dinner tea is finished, Tony makes a start for 'up over!' Mrs +Widger enquires if I have some writing to do--and asks also if I would +like to be awakened before tea-time! + +Never does sleep at night come so graciously as that afternoon snooze, +while the sound of the sea and the busy noises of the square float +gently in at the windows; float higher and higher; float right away. +About half-past two, Tony goes down to take somebody out for a sail or +to paint his boats. I frequently do not hear him. + + +13 + +Is there not more than one signification to the words "And I, if I be +lifted up, will draw all men unto Me?" There are times when the mind is +lifted up by a master-emotion, arising one hardly knows how, nor +whither leading; a feeling that takes charge of one, as a big wave is +said to take charge of a boat when it destroys steerageway; an emotion +so powerful that it does but batten on all which might be expected to +clash with it. These are the periods when day and night are enveloped +in one large state of mind, and life ceases to be a collection of +discrete, semi-related moods. These are the dawns of the soul, the +spring seasons of the spirit. The world is created afresh. + +Everything, and nothing, is prosaic. 'Tis _all according_. But it is +startling indeed how suddenly sometimes the earth takes on a new +wonderfulness, and Saint Prosaic a new halo. What, to put it in the +plainest manner possible, am I doing here? Merely fishing and sailing +on the cheap (not so very cheaply); roughing it--pigging it, as one +would say--with people who are not my people and do not live as I have +been accustomed to do. Yet, as I know well _all_ the time, this change +from one prosaic life to another has brought about a revelation which, +like great music, sanctifies things, makes one thankful, and in a sense +very humble; incapable of fitting speech, incapable of silence. + + +14 + +[Sidenote: _UNDER TOWN_] + +Astonishment at, and zest in, these Under Town lives; the discovery of +so much beauty hitherto unsuspected and, indeed, not to be caught sight +of without exceptional opportunity, sets one watching and waiting in +order to find out the real difference of their minds from the minds of +us who have been through the educational mill; also to find out where +and how they have the advantage of us. For I can feel rather than see, +here, the presence of a wisdom that I know nothing about, not even by +hearsay, and that I suspect to be largely the traditional wisdom of the +folk, gained from contact with hard fact, slowly accumulated and handed +on through centuries--the wisdom from which education cuts us off, +which education teaches us to pooh-pooh. + +Such wisdom is difficult to grasp; very shy. My chance of observing it +lies precisely in this: that I am neither a sky-pilot, nor a district +visitor, nor a reformer, nor a philanthropist, nor any sort of +'worker,' useful or impertinent; but simply a sponge to absorb and, so +far as can be, an understander to sympathize. It is hard entirely to +share another people's life, to give oneself up to it, to be received +into it. They know intuitively (their intuitions are extraordinarily +acute) that one is thinking more than one gives voice to; putting two +and two together; which keeps alive a lingering involuntary distrust +and a certain amount, however little, of ill-grounded respectfulness. +(Respectfulness is less a tribute to real or fancied superiority, than +an armour to defend the poor man's private life.) Besides which, these +people are necessary to, or at least their intimacy is greatly desired +by, myself, whereas their own life is complete and rounded without me. +I am tangential merely. They owe me nothing; I owe them much. It is I +who am the client, they the patrons. + +[Sidenote: _CLASS DISTINCTIONS_] + +We are told often enough nowadays that capital fattens on labour, +naturally, instinctively, without much sense of wrong-doing, and has +so fattened since the days when Laban tried to overreach Jacob. What +we are not so often told is that the poor man not less instinctively +looks upon the gen'leman as legitimate sport. 'An 'orrible lie' +between two poor people is fair play from a poor man to a wealthier, +just as, for instance, the wealthy man considers himself at liberty to +make speeches full of hypocritical untruth when he is seeking the +suffrage of the free and independent electors or is trying to teach +the poor man how to make himself more profitable to his employer. It +is stupid, at present, to ignore the existence of class distinctions; +though they do not perhaps operate over so large a segment of life as +formerly, they still exist in ancient strength, notwithstanding the +fashionable cant--lip-service only to democratic ideals--about the +whole world kin. There is not one high wall, but two high walls +between the classes and the masses, so-called, and that erected in +self-defence by the exploited is the higher and more difficult to +climb. On the one side is a disciplined, fortified Gibraltar, held by +the gentry; then comes a singularly barren and unstable neutral zone; +and on the other side is the vast chaotic mass. In Under Town, I +notice, a gentleman is always _gen'leman_, a workman or tramp is +_man_, but the fringers, the inhabitants of the neutral zone, are +called _persons_. For example: "That _man_ what used to work for the +council is driving about the _gen'leman_ as stays with Mrs Smith--the +_person_ what used to keep the greengrocery shop to the top of High +Street afore her took the lodging house on East Cliff." It is, in +fact, strange how undemocratic the poor man is. (Not so strange when +one realises that far from having everything to gain and nothing to +lose by a levelling process, he has a deal to lose and his gains are +problematical.) I am not sure that he doesn't prefer to regard the +gen'leman as another species of animal. Jimmy and Tommy have a name of +their own for the little rock-cakes their mother cooks. They call them +_gentry-cakes_ because such morsels are fitted for the--as Jimmy and +Tommy imagine--smaller mouths of ladies and gentlemen. The other +afternoon Mabel told me that a boat she had found belonged not to a +boy but to a _gentry-boy_. Some time ago I begged Tony not to _sir_ +me; threatened to punch his head if he did. It discomforted me to be +belaboured with a title of respect which I could not reasonably claim +from him. Rather I should _sir_ him, for he is older and at least my +equal in character; he has begotten healthy children for his country +and he works hard 'to raise 'em vitty.' Against my book-knowledge he +can set a whole stock of information and experience more directly +derived from and bearing upon life. I don't consider myself unfit to +survive, but he is fitter, and up to the present has done more to +justify his survival--which after all is the ultimate test of a man's +position in the race. At all events, he did cease _sir-ing_ me except +on ceremonial occasions. At ordinary times the detested word is +unheard, but it is still: "Gude morning, sir!" "Gude night, sir!" And +sometimes: "Your health, sir!" At that the matter must rest, I +suppose, though the _sir_ is a symbol of class difference, and to do +away with the symbol is to weaken the difference. + +[Sidenote: _THE WORD "LIKE"_] + +But at the same time, I am lucky enough to possess certain advantages. +I have, for instance, managed to preserve the ability to speak dialect +in spite of all the efforts of my pastors and masters to make me talk +the stereotyped, comparatively inexpressive compromise which goes by +the name of King's English. Tony is hard of hearing, catches the +meaning of dialect far quicker than that of standard English, and I +notice that the damn'd spot _sir_ seldom blots our conversation when +it is carried on in dialect. Finally there is the great problem of +self-expression. There, at any rate, I am well to windward. + +The cause of the uneducated man's use of the word _like_ is +interesting. He makes a statement, uses an adjective, and--especially +if the statement relates to his own feelings or to something +unfamiliar--he tacks on the word _like_, spoken in a peculiarly +explanatory tone of voice. What does the word mean there? Is it merely +a habit, a 'gyte,' as Tony would say? And why the word _like_? + +When a poet wishes to utter thoughts that are too unformulated, that +lie too deep, for words-- + + Break, break, break, + On thy cold grey stones, O Sea! + And I would that my tongue could utter + The thoughts that arise in me-- + +he has recourse to simile and metaphor. Take, for example, the +transience of human life, a subject on which at times we most of us +have keen vague thoughts that, we imagine, would be so profound could +our tongues but utter them. + +Blake's Thel is a symbol of the transience of life. + + O life of this our Spring! why fades the lotus of the water? + Why fade these children of the Spring, born but to smile and fall? + +"Thel, the transient maiden, is.... What is Thel?" says Blake, in +effect. Thel cannot be described straightforwardly. "What then is Thel +_like_?" + + Ah! Thel is like a watery bow, and like a parting cloud, + Like a reflection in a glass, like shadows on the water, + Like dreams of infants, like a smile upon an infant's face, + Like the dove's voice, like transient day, like music in the air. + +[Sidenote: _DIALECT_] + +Shakespeare, in a corresponding difficulty, uses one convincing simile: + + Like as the waves make towards the pebbled shore + So do our minutes hasten to their end; + Each changing place with that which goes before, + In sequent toil all forwards do contend. + +Drummond of Hawthornden exclaims: + + This Life, which seems so fair, + Is like a bubble blown up in the air + By sporting children's breath.... + +Bacon speaks more boldly and concisely. He forsakes simile for +metaphor, leaving the word _like_ to be understood. + + The World's a bubble, and the Life of Man + Less than a span.... + +Were Tony to try and express himself by the same means, he would say: +"The world's a bubble, like, and the life of man less than a span, +like." + +_Like_, in fact, with the poor man as with the poet, connotes simile +and metaphor. The poor man's vocabulary, like the poet's, is quite +inadequate to express his thoughts. Both, in their several ways, are +driven to the use of unhackneyed words and simile and metaphor; both +use a language of great flexibility;[11] for which reason we find that +after the poet himself, the poor man speaks most poetically. Witness +the beautiful description: "All to once the nor'easter springed out +from the land, an' afore us could down-haul the mainsail, the sea wer +feather-white an' skatting in over the bows." New words are eagerly +seized; hence the malapropisms and solecisms so frequently made fun of, +without appreciation of their cause. _Obsolete_ has come hereto from +the Navy, through sons who are bluejackets. Now, when Tony wishes to +sum up in one word the two facts that he is older and also less +vigorous than formerly, he says: "Tony's getting obsolete, like." A +soulless word, borrowed from official papers, has acquired for us a +poetic wealth of meaning in which the pathos of the old ship, of +declining years, and of Tony's own ageing, are all present with one +knows not what other suggestions besides. And when _obsolete_ is fully +domesticated here, the _like_ will be struck off. + + [11] The flexibility and expressiveness of dialect lies largely + in its ability to change its verbal form and pronunciation from a + speech very broad indeed to something approaching standard + English. For example, "You'm a fool," is playful; "You'm a fule," + less so. "You're a fool," asserts the fact without blame; while + "Thee't a fule," or "Thee a't a fule!" would be spoken in temper, + and the second is the more emphatic. The real differences between + "I an't got nothing," "I an't got ort," and "I an't got + nort,"--"Oo't?" "Casn'?" "Will 'ee?" and "Will you?"--"You'm + not," "You ain't," "You bain't," and "Thee a'tn't,"--are hardly + to be appreciated by those who speak only standard English. + _Thee_ and _thou_ are used between intimates, as in French. + _Thee_ is usual from a mother to her children, but is + disrespectful from children to their mother. + +[Sidenote: _THOUGHTS AND MIND PICTURES_] + +In short, every time Tony uses _like_, he is admitting, and explaining, +that he has expressed himself as best he could, but inadequately +notwithstanding. He has felt something more delicately, thought upon +something more accurately, than he can possibly say. He is always +pathetically eager to make himself plain, to be understood. One knows +well that touching look in the eyes of a dog when, as we say, it all +but speaks. Often have I seen that same look, still more intense, in +Tony's eyes, when he has become mazed with efforts to express himself, +and I have wished that as with the dog, a pat, a small caress, could +change the look into a joyfulness. But it is just because I am fond of +him that I am able to feel with him and to a certain extent to divine +his half-uttered thoughts; to take them up and return them to him +clothed in more or less current English which, he knows, would convey +them to a stranger, and which shows him more clearly than before what +he really was thinking. That seems to be one of my chief functions +here--thought-publisher. Evidently grateful, he talks and talks, +usually while the remains of a meal lie scattered on the table. "Aye!" +he says, at the end of a debauch of _likes_. "I don' know what I du +know. Tony's a silly ol' fule!" + +He does not believe it; nor do I; for I am often struck with wonder at +the thoughts and mind-pictures which we so curiously arrive at +together. + + +15 + +The old feudal class-distinctions are fast breaking down. But are we +arriving any nearer the democratic ideal of _Liberte_, _Egalite_, +_Fraternite_? In place of the old distinctions, are we not setting up +new distinctions, still more powerful to divide? There is to-day a +greater social gulf fixed between the man who takes his morning tub and +him who does not, than between the man of wealth or family and him who +has neither. New-made and pink, the 'gentleman' arises daily from his +circle of splashes, a masculine Venus from a foam of soap-suds. (About +womenfolk we are neither so enquiring nor so particular.) For the cults +of religion and pedigree we have substituted the cult of soap and +water, and 'the prominent physician of Harley Street' is its high +priest. Are you a reputed atheist? Poor man! doubtless God will +enlighten you in His good time. Are you wicked? Well, well.... Have you +made a fortune by forsaking the official Christian morality in favour +of the commercial code? You can redeem all by endowing a hospital or +university. But can they say of you that somehow or other you don't +look quite clean? Then you are damn'd! + +The cottage where the heroine of the 'nice' book lives is always +spotlessly clean. A foreigner who adopts the bath-habit, is said to be +just like an Englishman. It is the highest praise he can earn, and will +go further in English society than the best introductions. + +[Sidenote: _CLEANLINESS_] + +Cleanliness is our greatest class-symbol. In living with people who +have been brought up to different ways of life, a consideration +of cleanliness is forced upon one; for nothing else rouses so +instantaneously and violently the latent snobbery that one would fain +be rid of. Religiously, politically, we are men and brothers all. Yet +still--there _are_ men we simply cannot treat as brothers. By what term +of contempt (in order to justify our unbrotherliness) can we call them? +Not _poor men_; for we have _Poor but honest_ too firmly fixed in our +minds, and we would all like a colonial rich rough diamond of an uncle +to appear suddenly in our family circle. Hardly _men of no family_; for +men of no family are received at court. Not _workmen_; for behold the +Carlylese and Smilesian dignity of labour! Not _the masses_; for the +masses are supposed to be our rulers. What then can we call these +people with whom we really cannot associate on equal terms? Why, +call them THE GREAT UNWASHED. O felicitous phrase! O salve of the +conscience! That is the unpardonable social sin. At the bottom of our +social ladder is a dirty shirt; at the top is fixed not laurels, but a +tub! The bathroom is the inmost, the strongest fortress of our English +snobbery. + +Cleanliness as a subject of discussion is, curiously enough, considered +rather more improper than disease. Yet it has to be faced, and that +resolutely, if we would approach, and approaching, understand, the +majority of our fellow-creatures. + +Chemically all dirt is clean. Just as the foods and drinks of a good +dinner, if mixed up together on a dish, would produce a filthy mess, so +conversely, if we could separate any form of dirt into the pure solid, +liquid and volatile chemical compounds of which it is composed, into +pretty crystals, liquids and gases, exhibited in the scientific manner +on spotless watch-glasses and in thrice-washed test-tubes,--we might +indeed say that some of these chemicals had an evil odour, but we could +not pronounce them unclean. Prepared in a laboratory, the sulphuretted +hydrogen gas which makes the addled egg our national political weapon, +is a quite cleanly preparation. Dirt is merely an unhappy mixture of +clean substances. The housewife is nearest a scientific view of the +matter when she distinguishes between 'clean dirt' and 'dirty dirt,' +and does not mind handling coal, for instance, because, being clean +dirt, it will not harm her. Cleanliness is a process by which we keep +noxious microbes and certain poisons outside our systems or in their +proper places within. (It has been shown that we cannot live without +microbes, and that there exist normally in some parts of the body +substances which are powerfully poisonous to other parts.) Rational +cleanliness makes for health, for survival. It is, ultimately, an +expression of the Will to Live. + +[Sidenote: _DIRT_] + +Far, however, from being rational, our notions on cleanliness are in +the highest degree superficial. We make a great fuss over a flea; +hardly mention it in polite company; but we tolerate the dirty housefly +on all our food. We eat high game which our cook's more natural taste +calls muck. We are only just beginning to realise the indescribable +filthiness of carious teeth, than which anything more unclean, a few +diseases excepted, can scarcely be found in slums. Even in this great +age of pseudo-scientific enlightenment, we do not have a carious tooth +extracted until it aches, though we have a front tooth cleaned and +stopped on the first appearance of decay. What the eye doth not see.... +Yet we presume to judge men by their deviation from our conventional +standards of cleanliness. + +My lady goes to the doctor for her headaches and _crises de nerfs_. +"Dyspepsia and autotoxaemia," says the doctor. "Try such-and-such a diet +for a month, then go to Aix-les-Bains." But how would my lady be +ashamed did he tell her plainly: "Madam, though I observe that you +bathe frequently, your cleanliness, like your beauty, is only +skin-deep. You are fair without and foul within. Your alimentary canal +is overloaded and your blood is so unclean that it has poisoned your +nervous system. Eat less, take more exercise and drink plenty--of +water. Try to be as clean as your gardener." It has been remarked that +the labourer who sweats at his work is, in reality, far cleaner than +the bathing sedentary man, for the labourer has a daily sweat-bath, +whereas the other only washes the outside of him: the cleanliness of +the latter is skin-deep, and of the former blood-deep. Once stated, the +fact is obvious. Moreover, the labourer has the additional advantage of +being self-cleansing, whereas the sedentary man, for his inferior kind +of cleanliness, requires a bath and all sorts of apparatus. No doubt, +in time we shall learn to value both kinds of cleanliness, each at its +worth. The Martians of fiction, when in a fair way to conquer the +earth, succumbed before earthly microbes to which they were +unaccustomed, against which they had not acquired immunity. If by +antiseptics they could have kept these microbes at bay, they would have +done well, but if, like mankind, they had possessed self-resistance +against them (that is, if they had been self-cleansing) it would have +been still better. There is no paradox in saying that, practically, it +is very difficult for a healthy person to be genuinely unclean; and +that ideally, in the surgeon's eyes, we are, all, rich man and tramp, +so unclean that there is little to choose between us, and every one of +us requires a comprehensive scrubbing in an antiseptic tub. + +[Sidenote: _DISADVANTAGES_] + +But just as the habit of aiding nature by eating predigested food is +bad, so too rigid a habit, too great a need of cleanliness is a +positive disadvantage in the struggle for existence. Harry Stidston +says fleas are loveable little creatures. I have had to learn to put up +with one or two sometimes. Tommy makes his mother undress him in the +middle of dinner to find one. In other words, Harry Stidston can do his +work and live under conditions which would put me to flight, and I have +a like advantage over Tommy. Again, Tony can do with an occasional bath +and can eat his food with fishy hands, while I am a worm and no man +without my daily bath, or at least a wash-over, and, except at sea, +turn against the best of food if I can smell fish on my fingers. The +advantage is Tony's. It is good to be clean, but it is better to be +able to be dirty. + +The upshot is half-a-dozen--maybe unpleasant--truths, without +recognition of which the latter-day citadel of snobbery cannot be +stormed, nor the poor man and his house appreciated at their worth; +namely:-- + + 1. _Ideally_: We are all so unclean that there is little to + choose between us. + + 2. _Scientifically_: Cleanliness, as practised, is + conventional and irrational. + + 3. Blood-cleanliness is better than skin-cleanliness. + + 4. To be self-cleansing is better than to be cleansed by outside + agents. + + 5. It is hard for a healthy, active person to be really unclean. + + 6. _Practically_: The need of cleanliness is a weakness. + +According to the orthodox standards, this house of Tony's is by no +means so clean as the rose-embowered cottage of romance. It was not +hygienically built. The children gain health by grubbing about outside, +then come in house and demonstrate their healthy appetite by grabbing. +I could wish at times that they were a little more conscious of their +noses. We cannot, try how we will, get wholly rid of fleas, because +fleas flourish in beaches, boats and nets. There are several things +here to turn one's gorge, until prejudices are put aside and the matter +regarded scientifically. For, as one may see, the effective cleanliness +of this household strikes a subtle balance between more contending +needs than can be fully traced out. If, for instance, Mrs Widger came +down earlier and scrupulously swept the house, her temper would suffer +later on in the day. If she did not sometimes 'let things rip,' and +take leisure, her health, and with it the whole delicate organisation +of the household, would go wrong. Of a morning, I observe she has +neck-shadows. Horrid! Perhaps, but being a wise woman, pressed always +for time, she postpones her proper wash until the dirty work is done. +Were we to kill off the wauling cats which make such a mess of the +garden, the neighbourhood would lose its best garbingers. Baked dinner +is never so tasty as when the tin, hot from the oven, is placed upon a +folded newspaper on the table. Tony and the children tear fish apart +with their fingers. It does not look nice, but that is the reason why +they never get bones in their throats, for, as a fish-eating +instrument, sensitive fingers are much superior to cutlery and plate, +and so on.... + +I used to think that I was pigging it here. Now I do not.[12] + + [12] On the moral aspect of cleanliness I have not touched. Miss + M. Loane, a Queen's Nurse, in her remarkable book _The Next + Street but One_, observes "Cleanliness has often seemed to me + strangely far from godliness. Where the virtue is highly + developed there is often not merely an actual but an absolute + shrinkage in all sweet neighbourly charities. If an invalid's + bedroom needs scrubbing and there is no money to pay for the + service, or if a chronic sufferer's kitchen is in want of a + 'thorough good do-out,' if two or three troublesome children have + to be housed and fed during the critical days after an operation + on father or mother, do I look for assistance from 'the cleanest + woman in the street?' Alas, no; whether she be wife, widow, or + spinster, I pass her by, careful not to tread on her pavement, + much less her doorstep, and seek the happy-go-lucky person whose + own premises would be better for more water and less grease, but + from whose presence neither husband nor child ever hastens away." + + +16 + +[Sidenote: _JIMMY COMES HOOKING_] + +The dawns are later now. We do not need to get up quite so early, and +usually, just as we are drinking our cup o' tay, we hear a pattering of +naked feet on the staircase. Jimmy, the Dustman still in his eyes, +appears at the door. He has an air of being about to do something +important. He picks out his stockings and old grey suit from the +corners where they were left to dry. He does not ask to have his boots +laced up nor complain of their stiffness. Then with his coat +exceedingly askew on his shoulders, he demands: "Tay! please." + +"What do _yu_ want? Git up over to bed again." + +"I be comin' hooking wiv yu." + +"Be 'ee? Yu'll hae to hurry up then." + +When the sea is not too loppy nor the wind too cold, Jimmy goes with +us. The soft-mouthed mackerel need hauling up clear of the gunwale with +a long-armed swing, beyond Jimmy's power to give, and therefore as a +rule he is not at first allowed to have a line; for fish represent +money and mackerel caught now will be eaten as bread and dripping in +the winter. Jimmy sits huddled up on the lee side for'ard. He becomes +paler, looks plaintively, and sighs a big sigh or two. + +"What's the matter, Jim-Jim? Do 'er feel leery?" + +If Jimmy volunteers a remark, nothing is the matter. But if he +merely answers "No-o-o!" he means _yes_, and in order to stave off +sea-sickness he must be given a line. + +[Sidenote: _EDUCATION EVILS_] + +Then is Jimmy 'proper all right.' Then does he brighten up. "How many +have us catched?" he asks. The sight of him fishing in the stern-sheets +re-assures me as to his future, about which I am sometimes fearful, +just as some men are depressed by a helpless baby because they foresee, +imaginatively, the poor little creature's life and all possible +troubles before it. When I watch Jimmy in house, rather naughty +perhaps, or when I hear Bessie, fresh from the twaddle that they put +into her head at school, saying, "If Dad'd earn more money, mother, us +could hae a shop an' he could buy me a pi-anno;" or when, as I am out +and about with the boats, a grubby small hand is suddenly slipped into +mine and a joyful chirping voice says, "What be yu 'bout?"--then, and +at a score of other times, I am fearful of what they may be led to do +with Jimmy; fearful lest they may put the little chap to an inland +trade where he is almost bound to become a lesser man than his father, +be removed from the enlarging influence of the sea, and have it given +him as the height of ambition to grow up a dram-drinking or +psalm-smiting, Sunday-top-hatted tradesmen. Then I desire savagely to +have the power of a God, not that I might direct his life--he can sail +his own boat better than I,--but that I might keep the ring clear for +him to fight in, and prevent foul play. What indeed would I not do to +remove some of the guilt of us educated men and women who force our +ideas on people without asking whether they need them, without caring +how maimed, stultified and potent for evil the ideas become in process +of transmission, without seeing that for the age-old wisdom of those +whom we call the uneducated we are substituting a jerry-built +knowledge--got from books--which we only half believe in ourselves? New +lamps for old! The pity of it! The farce! + +But when I watch Jimmy fishing, I grow confident that the sea has its +grip on him; that it will drag him to itself as it dragged his father +from the grocery store; that whatever happens, it will always be part +of his life to keep trivialities, meannesses and education from quite +closing in around him. + + +17 + +[Sidenote: "_THE FISHER FATHER AND CHILD_"] + + _The Fisher Father and Child_ + + As I pulled the boat across a loppy sea-- + The bumping and splashing boat, + With the sail flapping round my head, + And the pile of mackerel amidships ever growing larger and lovelier + in the light-- + And the sun rose behind the cliffs to eastward, and the sky became + lemon-yellow + (A graciously coloured veil twixt the earth and all mystery beyond), + And the wavelets sparkled and darted like ten thousand fishes at play + in the ambient dawn,-- + It seemed that the sky and the sea and the earth gathered themselves + together, + And became one vast kind eye, looking into the stern of the boat, + At the father and boy. + + Navy-blue guernsey, and trousers stained by the sea, scarce hiding + the ribbed muscles; + Tan-red face, the fresh blood showing through; + Blue eyes, all of a flash with fishing and the joy of hauling 'em in; + now on the luff of the sail (out of habit, there being hardly a + sail-full of air), now to wind'ard, and again smiling on the + child; + Big pendulous russet hands, white in the palms from salt water, and + splashed with scales-- + Hands that seem implements rather, appearing strangely no part of the + man, but something, like the child, that has grown away from + him and has taken a life of its own-- + Strong for a sixteen-foot sweep, delicate to handle the silken snood of + a line-- + A man that the winds and the spray have blown on, gnarled and bent to + the sea's own liking, + The Father! + + And the boy-- + Like delicate dawn to the sunset was the child to his father-- + A sturdy slight little figure, as straight as the mast, + A grey and more gently coloured figure, glancing round with the + father's self-same gestures softened, and with childish + trustful sea-blue eyes; + Pattering with naked feet on the stern-sheets, and hauling the fish + with a wary cat-like motion.... + O splendid and beautiful pair! + O man of the sea! O child growing up to the sea! + You have given yourselves to the waters, and the waters have given + of their spirit to you, + And I know when you speak that the sea is speaking through you, + And I know when I look at the sea, 'tis the likeness of your souls, + And I know that as I love you, I am loving also the sea-- + O splendid and beautiful portions of the sea! + + +18 + +[Sidenote: _MRS FINN'S PROFESSIONS_] + +Mrs Pinn has put aside her respectful defiance, has ceased addressing +me as _sir_, and turns out to be a most jolly old woman, possessed of +any amount of laughing _camaraderie_. She frankly explains the change +thus: "I used to think yu was reeligious. Yu du look a bit like a +passon [parson] sometimes. Do 'ee know 't?--No, not now; be blow'd if +yu du! Yu'm so wicked as the rest of 'em, _I_ believe, but yu ben't +like they ol' passons. I'll 'llow yu'm better'n they." My own +recollection, however, runs back to the evening when she brought her +damped-down washing round, and I turned the mangle for her. It is +hardish work. 'Tis a wonder how she, an old woman, can do it when, if +births are scarce, she is reduced to taking in washing for a week or +two. Tony calls her the Tough Old Stick. Excellent name! I can picture +her in her cottage up on land, bringing up her long family with much +shouting, much hard common sense, some swearing and a deal of useful +prejudice. Now, in her second youth--not second childhood--she is +mainly a lace-worker and midwife. One night, Tony and myself broke into +her cottage, locked the door behind us and helped ourselves to what +supper we could find--which was pickled beetroot and raw eggs. Grannie +Pinn climbed in upon us through the little window, and afterwards, to +gain breath, she sat down to her lace pillow. Her dexterity was +marvellous. She _threw_ the bobbins about. I could not follow them with +my eyes. She makes stock patterns only; refuses to be taught fresh +patterns at her time of life, and cannot read them up for herself +because she has never learned to read. The butterfly is her +masterpiece. Working from early morning till evening's gossip-time, she +can earn no less than nine pennies a day. What the lace-selling shop +makes out of her, the lace-selling shop does not state. + +As a midwife, no doubt, she earns more. She must be full of tonic +sayings. I am told that when her patients are dying, she takes away the +pillow 'so that they can die more proper like,' and also in order that +they may get the dying over quicker. What scenes the Tough Old Stick +have must been present at! Yet she is spryer by far than those who keep +clear of tragedy. When I ask her to tell me truly how many patients she +has killed off in her professional career, her eyes glitter and she +bursts out: "Aw, yu! What chake yu got, to be sure!" + +She has her share of professional pride, but nevertheless I should like +to know how many corpses she really has laid out for burial--and what +she thought the while. + +Usually she comes in just before supper-time: + +"Ain't yu gone yet? I know; yu got some mark or other to Seacombe. Come +on! which o' the young ladies is't? Out wi' it! Which on 'em is't?" +When I tell her that she is the best girl in Seacombe and that I won't +give her the chuck until she finds me a mark as youthful as herself and +a hundred times as rich, she says: + +"Then yu'm done! her won't hae nort still, 'cause I an't got nort, an' +a hundred times nort be nothing--he-he-he! I knaws thiccy." + +The jokes, 'tis true, are poor. But the Tough Old Stick's enjoyment +franks them all. You may fling a stinging fact in her face; tell her, +if you like, that she could find plenty of marks for herself because, +being old, she will have to die soon and then the poor fellow would be +free again. "I know't!" she says, and flings you back another stinging +fact. Admirable Old Stick! She never flinches at a fact, howsoever +grisly it be. + +Above all, she revels in a little mild blasphemy; hardly +blasphemy--imaginary details, say, about hell, in the manner of Mark +Twain. "Aw, my dear soul!" she exclaims. "How yu du go on! Aw, my dear +soul! Yu'm going to hell, sure 'nuff yu be!" + +[Sidenote: _AGNOSTICISM_] + +But her horror is only a pretence. She does not take such matters +seriously. Indeed, few things have surprised me so much as the +thoroughgoing agnosticism that prevails here. Uncle Jake is the +religious member of the Widger family. For the rest, religion is the +business of the clergy who are paid for it and of those who take it up +as a hobby, including the impertinent persons who thrust hell-fire +tracts upon the fisherfolk. "Us can't 'spect to know nort about it," +says Tony. "'Tain't no business o' ours. May be as they says; may be +not. It don't matter, that I sees. 'Twill be all the same in a hunderd +years' time when we'm a-grinning up at the daisy roots." + +Nevertheless, he is not atheistical, nor even wholly fatalistic. When +his first wife was lying dead, he saw her in a dream with one of her +dead babies in her arms, and he is convinced that that meant something +very spiritual, although what it meant he does not care to enquire. The +agnosticism refers not so much to immortality or the existence of a +God, as to the religions, the nature of the God, the divinity of +Christ, and so on. + +"Us don' know nort about that, n'eet does anybody else, I believe, an' +all their education on'y muddles 'em when they comes to weigh up thic +sort o' thing." + +[Sidenote: _SPARROWISM_] + +If the sparrows themselves had been acquainted with 'Are not two +sparrows sold for a farthing? and one of them shall not fall to the +ground without your Father,' their attitude towards religion might have +resembled Tony's--a mixture of trust and _insouciance_, neither of +them driven to any logical conclusion and both tempered by fatalism. +"When yu got to die, yu got tu," says Tony, and it makes little +difference to him whether the event has been decreed since the +beginning of time, or whether it is to be decreed at some future date +by a being so remote as God. The thing is, to accept the decree +courageously. + +The children go to Sunday School, of course; it is convenient to have +them out of the way while Sunday's dinner is being cooked and the +afternoon snooze being taken. Besides, though the Sunday School +teaching is a fearful hotch-potch of heaven, hell and self-interest, +the tea-fights concerts and picnics connected with it are well worth +going to. But the household religion remains a pure _sparrowism_, +and an excellent creed it is for those of sufficient faith and courage. + +Of how the Sunday School teaching is translated by the children into +terms of every day life, we had a fine example two or three weeks ago. +Jimmy came home full of an idea that 'if you don' ast God to stop it, +Satant 'll have 'ee,' and Mrs Widger asked him: "What's the difference +then between God an' Satant?" + +"Ther ain't nort." + +"Yes, there is. What does God du?" + +"God don't do nort unless yu asks Him." + +"An' what does Satant du?" + +"Oh--I know!--Satant gets into yer 'art, an' gives 'ee belly-ache an' +toothache." + +Not many days afterwards, Tommy was being sent to bed for getting his +feet wet. "Yu daring rascal! I'll knock yer head off if yu du it again. +Yu'll die, yu will! An' what'll yu du then?" + +"Go to heaven, o' course." + +"An' what do you think they'll say to 'ee there? Eh?" + +Tommy was puzzled. + +"You can ask 'em to send us better weather." I suggested. + +"Tell 'ee what I'll do," said Tommy with a prodigiously wise squint. +"I'll take up a buckle-strap to thiccy ol' God, if 'er don't send +better weather, an' then yu won't none on 'ee get sent to bed for wet +feet!" + + +19 + +At a corner near here, there is a very blank cottage wall, and in +the centre of it a little window. Behind the closed window, all +day and every day, sits an old woman at her lace pillow. Some +portraits--Rembrandt's especially--give one the impression that a +shutter has suddenly been drawn aside; that behind the shutter we are +allowed to watch for a moment or two a face so full of meaning as to +be almost more than human. The same impression is given me by the old +lace-maker in the window when I pass to and fro, and catch sight of +her face so still, her hands so active, her bobbins so swift and, +because of the intervening glass, so silent. How nervously the hands +speed with the bobbins, how very deliberately with the pins that make +the pattern! How hardly human it is! + +One evening, however, the window was open, children stood round in a +group, and I heard the small click of the bobbins through the still +air. The children were laughing, delighted with the old woman's +swiftness. She that had been a picture, was become a living being. + +No doubt, she is working at her lace pillow now. She has several mouths +to feed. I wonder does she earn as much as Grannie Pinn? + + +20 + +[Sidenote: _CONGERING_] + +This long time I have wished to go congering all night, but have been +unable to do so for want of a mate. It is more than one man's work to +haul a boat up the beach in daytime, let alone the middle of the night +or at early dawn. If the _Moondaisy_'s old crew was here.... + +Ah! those were days--when George and the Little Commodore and the Looby +and myself used to row out with a swinging stroke at sundown to +Elm-beech-tree[13] and Conger Pool. The choosing of the mark; the +careful heaving of the sling-stone; the blinn, skate, pollack, +spider-crabs, and conger eels, we used to catch; the fights with the +conger in the dark or by the light of matches or of an old lantern that +blew out when it was most wanted; the absurd way the crew turned up +their noses at my nice tomato sandwiches and gobbled down stringy +corned beef; their quiet slumber round the stern seats and my solitary +watch amidships over all the lines, and at the sea-fire trailing in the +flood-tide; their crustiness when I awoke them to shift our mark and +their jubilation when a whopper was to be gaffed; the utter +peacefulness of the night after they had gone to sleep again; our merry +row home and hearty beaching of the boat; the cup of hot tea.... It is +all clean gone. George is in the Navy and the Little Commodore is under +a glass box of waxen flowers up on land. Did I bring back a catch +alone, perhaps the old boat would be stove in. + + [13] A spot found by getting an elm-tree on the cliffs in a line + with a beech-tree up on land. + +Tony, however, has been saying that, on the rough ground a mile or so +out, good-sized conger can be caught by day. On Saturday, therefore, I +collected gear from the Widger linhays, borrowed a painter and anchor, +and, the wind being easterly, I luffed the _Moondaisy_ out a mile +and a half south-east. There I dropped anchor. + +Tony had given me two mackerel for bait, one fresh and the other +somewhat otherwise; that is to say it was merely fishmonger +fresh--quite good enough for eating but hardly good enough for conger +who, though they have a reputation for feeding on dead men, will only +touch the freshest of bait. With the fresh mackerel I caught one large +conger (it ripped in the sail a hole that took Mam Widger an hour to +mend) and two dog-fish. Nothing at all would bite at the stale +mackerel. The easterly sea was making a little and skatting in over the +bows. Besides which, the _Moondaisy_ began to drag her anchor. My +hand to jaw-and-tail fight with the conger had made me a little +unsteady; had made my muscles feel as if they might string up with +cramp; which is not good for stepping a heavyish mast and sailing a +boat. So I stepped the mast and set sail, to make sure, and ran +homewards with the wind almost abeam. + +We decided to save the conger for Sunday's dinner. + +Mrs Widger made a most savoury stew of it, and when Tony came in as +usual, asking, "Be dinner ready, Missis?" she placed the stew on the +table. + +Tony's face fell. + +"Be this my dinner, Annie?" + +"Iss, for sure." + +"_Thees?_" + +[Sidenote: _HOT BAKE_] + +"What d'yu think then?" + +"_Thees!_ Wer's yer baked spuds?" + +"Do' ee gude to hae a change. Ther's some cold taties to the larder if +you likes to get 'em." + +"_Thees!_ Why, I wish thees yer conger hadn't never been catched!" + +"G'out!--Now then, you childern...." + +Tony picked over the fish, going _Tsch!_ for every bone his fingers +came across. + +"Thee't look so sulky as an ol' cow," said Mam Widger. + +"Well, what do 'ee think? Thees yer.... Did 'ee ever see the like +o'it?" + +Presently it occurred to him to peep inside the oven. His face +brightened. "I know'd her 'ouldn't du me out o' me Sunday dinner. Bring +it out, Missis. Sharp! Gie thiccy stuff to the cat. Baked spuds! What's +Sunday wi'out baake? 'Tain't no day at all! I couldn' ha' put away an +hour after thic." + +For the remainder of the meal, when Tony was not eating, he was +singing; and several times he chucked Mam Widger under the chin, and +she retorted: "G'out, yu cupboard-loving cat!" + + +21 + +This is the recipe for baked dinner: + +Turn out the children and turn on the oven. Into the middle of a large +baking tin place a saucer piled up with a mixture of herbs (mainly +parsley), one sliced onion and breadcrumbs, the whole made sticky with +a morsel of dripping. Round about the saucer put a layer of large +peeled potatoes, and on top of all, the joint. Set the baking tin on +the hob and into it pour just enough warm water to run over the rim of +the saucer. Soon after the water boils, transfer the whole to a fairly +quick oven. When the meat is brown outside, slow the oven down. Serve +piping hot from the oven, placing the tin on a folded newspaper and the +joint, if large, on a hot plate. + +To dish up hot bake in the ordinary way would be to let the nature out +of it. The smell is a wonderful blend, most hunger-provoking. True, the +joint, unless pork or veal, is apt to be a little tough, but the taties +are a delicious shiny brown, their soft insides soaked through and +through with gravy. Bake is a meal in itself. Pudding thereafter is a +work of supererogation--almost an impertinence. + +Mrs Widger's cookery, though sometimes a little greasy for one who does +no great amount of manual labour and undergoes no excessive exposure, +is far from bad. + +[Sidenote: _FOOD_] + +Food reformers; patrons of cookery schools where they try, happily in +vain, to teach the pupils to prepare dishes no working man would +adventure on; physical degenerates who fear that unless the working man +imitates them, he will become as degenerate as they are, and quite +unfit to do the world's rough work--forget that whereas they have only +one staple food, if that, namely bread, the poor man has several staple +dishes which he likes so well that he is loth to touch any other. + +One day we did have at my suggestion a rather fanciful supper. Tony +tasted, ate, and cleared the dish. Then he asked: "An't 'ee got nort to +make a meal on, Missis? no cold meat nor spuds?" He believes in the +theory that good digestion waits on appetite rather than on digestible +or pre-digested foods; that the meal which makes a man's mouth water is +the best to eat; and that solid foods give solid strength. And if the +same dish can make his mouth water nearly every day in the week, how +much more fortunate is he than fickle gourmets! + +When I first came here, I used periodically to run after the +flesh-pots. I used to sneak off to tea at a confectioner's. Now I +seldom feed out of house--simply because I don't want to. We start the +day about sunrise with biscuits and a cup of tea which I make and take +up myself. (Mam Widger and Tony look so jolly in bed, her indoor +complexion and white nightgown beside his blue-check shirt and +magnificently tanned face, that I've dubbed them 'The Babes in the +Wood.') For breakfast, we have fried mackerel or herrings, when they +are in season; otherwise various mixtures of tough bacon and perhaps +eggs (children half an egg each) and bubble and squeak.[14] Sometimes +the children prefer kettle-broth,[15] but they never fail to clamour for +'jam zide plaate.' Bake, hot or cold, and occasionally (mainly for me, +I think) a plain pudding, or on highdays a pie, make up the dinner that +is partaken of by all. But before the pudding is eaten, Tony and myself +are already looking round to see that the kettle is on a hot part of +the fire, and when the children are gone off to school, Mam Widger +throws us out a cup o' tay each, with now and then a newly baked +gentry-cake. Tony, who would like meat or a fry of fish for tea, has +usually to content himself with bread and butter. The children go off +to bed with a biscuit or a small chunk of cheese, and we may eat the +same with pickles, or else fried or boiled fish if there is any in the +house.... Supper, in fact, is the meal of many inventions, including +all sorts of crabs, little lobsters, and such unsaleable fish as +dun-cow [dog-fish], conger, skate or weever, together with +dree-hap'orth, or a pint, of stout and bitter from the Alexandra. Just +before turning in, Tony and myself have a glass of hot grog. + + [14] Fried mixed vegetables. + + [15] Bread broth with butter, or dripping, and water instead of + milk. A dash of skim milk is sometimes added. + +[Sidenote: _DRINK_] + +From such a list of our fare, it would seem as if we over-ate ourselves +as consistently as the _en pension_ visitors at the hotels. (Mrs +Widger, who has done a good deal of waiting, frequently tells us how +manfully the visitors endeavour to eat their money's worth at the +_tables d'hote_). Tony's appetite--his habit of pecking at the food +after a meal is over and the way he, and the children too if they have +the chance, mop up pickles and Worcester sauce--is a continual joy to +me. We do not drink much alcohol. On the other hand, the children are +curiously discouraged from drinking cold water. Skim milk, tea, stout, +ale, or even very dilute spirit is considered better for them--a +prejudice which dates probably from the days before a pure water +supply. Since, however, I who am known to possess a contemptible +digestion, have been seen to drink down several glasses of cold water +daily, and to take no hurt, the ban on it has been more or less +removed. + +The above-mentioned goodies are distributed, it is true, over a good +many days in the year, and I fancy that my being here drives up the +scale of living somewhat. At all events, we do not go short. Waste on +the one side, mainly arising from small eyes being bigger than small +stomachs, is more than counterbalanced by a wonderful ability to +swallow down gristle, rinds and hard bits without apparent harm. +Granfer, indeed, says that he 'wouldn't gie a penny a pound for tender +meat that don't give 'ee summut to bite at.' The children clamour +always for 'jam zide plaate.' Without that or the promise of it, they +often refuse to eat anything. They do not believe me when I tell them +that they have more food than ever I did at their age; that I had to +eat a piece of bread and a potato for each slice of meat; that jam and +butter together was not thought good for me except on birthdays and +Sundays. "G'out!" they say. "Ye lie!" Sometimes their mother is +irritated into calling them 'cawdy li'l devils.' It does seem almost a +pity that they have not had any of the discipline of starvation. The +Yarty children who go half the day, and only too often whole days, on +empty stomachs, are certainly as happy as ours: they never cry because +dinner is not so good as they expect, and if we give them half a pie +their earth is straightway heavenly. Tony thinks now and then how hard +it will go with his children if the money runs short, as it has done +and may easily do again. "I mind the time," he says, "when I used to +come in hungry and kneel down beside me mother wi' me head across her +lap, crying! Her crying too; mother 'cause her hadn't got nort to eat +in house, and me 'cause her didn't get nort, and 'cause her cuden't get +nort, not even half an ounce o' tay, not havin' no money in house to +get it with. An' then I used to go out an' try an' earn something, +twopence maybe, just to stay us on." + +And that it is which has helped to make Tony the man he is. + + +22 + +[Sidenote: _A SUDDEN STORM_] + +Seldom does one catch the exact moment of an abrupt change in nature. +Yesterday, however, I watched a wonderful thing--the oncoming of a +sudden storm. + +Uncle Jake had been holding forth on the beach. "Us ain't had no +equinoctial gales thees year, not proper like us used to. This season's +going to break up sudden and wi' thunder, an' when it du, look out! I'd +rather be here now than out in the offing, for all the sea's so calm. +Ah!" pointing to a dinghy that was shoving off the beach, "they bwoys +'ould laugh in me faace if I was to go an' say, 'Don' go. 'Tisn't fit.' +But _I_ knows." + +I left him gazing seaward over the stern of his drifter, and walked up +to the Western Cliffs. The air, scarcely a breath from the north-east, +was oppressive in the extreme; very warm, too, for autumn. The sea was +almost unruffled; the sky to westward magnificently heaped up with what +Uncle Jake calls wool-packs. A fog crept over all the southern horizon, +dimming with its misty approach the eastern headlands and making the +sea like a dulled mirror. I felt, rather than heard, distant thunder. + +The fog lifted. It hung low in the sky, a sulky blue cloud. Beneath it, +the sea, still unruffled, was of a dense blue that, so it seemed, would +have been black altogether but for its transparency and the refracted +light within it. + +Going on, I walked for some distance beneath a semi-arch of the +wind-bowed lichenous thorns that grow upon the cliff-edge. + +Without any warning--maybe there was a little hum in the air--a +leafless bough, like a withered arm with its sinews ragged out, bent +over across my path. The sea gulls screamed and screeched; they flocked +out from the cliff-ledges, and with still wings they towered up into +the sky. Every twig and leaf began to play a diabolic symphony. Where +the hedge ended I was blown back upon my heels.--It was more than half +a gale of wind from the south-east. + +The horizon was become clear; jagged like a saw. Divergent strings, +marvellously interlaced on the water, streamed in with the wind, +broadened into ribands fluttering over green-grey patches. The whole +sea trembled, as if life were being breathed into it. White spots, +curling wavelets, dotted it; then broke abroad as white-horses in full +mad landward career. The whistle in the grass rose louder and shriller; +the boughs bent further and let fly their autumn foliage horizontally +into the wind; the gulls screeched wildly and more wildly; the chafing +of the surf below took possession of the air.... + +[Sidenote: _UNCLE JAKE ON FOOLS_] + +I saw the dinghy put about and run for shore. + +When I got back, Uncle Jake was still watching. + +"Ah!" he said. "Ah! Ah! I don't like they centre-keel boats wi' bumes +[booms]. They'm all right for fine weather, but.... Ah! They'm goin' to +gybe if they ain't careful. There! Did 'ee see? Why don't they ease +their sheet off more? If the wind catches thic sail the wrong side.... +Did 'ee see that? Thic bume was all but coming over. Gybe, gybe, yu +fules! Yu'm capsized if yu du, wi' thic heavy bume. Look'se! Have 'em +got their drop-keel up, I wonder? Not they! They thinks that's the same +as extra ballast. 'Twon't make no difference if a sea takes charge of +'em. Ah! did 'ee see the leach o' the sail flutter? Nearly over! Let +'em gybe, if they'm set on it. 'Twill upset they.--O-ho! They'm goin' +to haul down an' row for it. Best thing the likes o' they can du. They +calls me an ol' fule for joggin' along in my ol' craft while they has +drop-keels and bumes, all the latest. I've a-know'd thees yer sea for +fifty year an' more, an' I say, I tell thee, that two oars be better +than two reefs any day. Le'but the seas take charge o' one o' they +boats running afore the wind.... All up! They spins like a top, an' +gybes.... 'Tis all up! Howsbe-ever, they'm saafe now, if they don't +sheer broadside coming ashore. But _they_ won't learn their lesson; not +they. They maakes fun o' us as knows. + +"There! the wind be softening now. I've a-know'd they thunder-puffs +come down on 'ee like a hurricane. If they lasted long.... 'Tis blowin' +out in the Channel still. The horizon's black--see? 'Twill back, an' +blow from the nor'east to-night, in here, but 'twill be east to +south-east in the Channel, an' wi' thees flood tide runnin' up against +it, yu'll see the say make!" + + +23 + +It did blow during the night; it must have been rough out in the +Channel; then the wind dropped to a light breeze. But before ever Tony +and myself were out of doors we heard the heave and thump of the long +easterly swell. + +We hauled the _Cock Robin_ down to the water's edge, put in five bags +of ballast ("Doesn't look 's if it's blow'd itself out," said Tony) and +a spare oar--and stood and looked. + +"Be it wuth it?" he questioned. + +"Not much wind now, is there?" + +"Can the two o'us shove off in thees yer swell? Can ee see any o' the +other boats shoving down?" + +"No...." + +"There won't be much frighting to-day, for sure. Must make the day gude +if us can. Yer's a calm. Jump in quick. Shove! Shove, casn'! Row. Lemme +take an oar. Keep her head on. _Pull_--thic west'ard oar!" + +[Sidenote: _PLUCK--_] + +We were fairly afloat outside the surf-line, both of us very red in the +face. We upsailed--and away. After a few minutes' worry, deciding +whether the mainsail and mizzen without the foresail would be enough, +on a sea so much bigger than the wind, and looking for the _Cock +Robin's_ chronic leak, the bouncing, tumbling and splashing, the +heave up and the mighty rushes down, put us both in high spirits. We +decided to hoist the foresail after all. "Let her bury her head if her +wants to!" + +Accordingly, I went for'ard to hook the foresail's tack to the bumkin +[short iron bowsprit]. The thimble was too small. As I sat on the bow +and leaned out over, my hand all but dipped into the waves. A stream of +water did once run up my sleeve. Looking round and seeing Tony smile, I +yelled back aft: "What be smiling 'bout, Tony?" He replied: "I was +a-gloryin' in yer pluck." + +Which was very pleasant to hear--for a moment. + +My position on the bow of the boat was absolutely safe, and I knew it. +There was no risk at all, except of a bruise or a wetting. My toe was +firmly hooked under the for'ard thwart, and short of my leg breaking, I +could not have lost my hold. Besides, even had I fallen overboard, I +could easily have swum round while Tony 'bouted the boat. Tony was +deceived. There was no pluck. + +His words set me thinking, and I had to recognise, rather bitterly, +that what I call pluck did not form a great part of my birthright. I +find myself too apprehensive by nature; imagine horrid possibilities +too keenly; and indeed would far rather hurt myself than think about +doing so. I suppose I have a certain amount of courage, for I am +usually successful in making myself do what I funk; but I like doing it +none the better for that. And up to the present, I have not failed +badly in tight corners. On the contrary, I find (like most nervy +people) that actual danger, once arrived, is curiously exhilarating; +that it makes one cooler and sharper, even happy. One has faced the +worst in imagination, and the reality is play beside it. + +[Sidenote: _AND COURAGE_] + +In the dictionary, _courage_ is defined as 'The quality which enables +men to meet danger without fear.' _Pluck_ is merely defined as courage. +There is, or ought to be, an essential difference between the meaning +of the two words. Courage is a premeditated matter, into which the +will enters, whilst pluck is an unpremeditated expression of the +personality, an innate quality which, so to speak, does not need to be +set in operation by the will. Courage rises to the occasion; pluck is +found ready for it. Would it not, therefore, be more correct to say +that _pluck_ is the quality which enables men to meet danger without +fear: and that _courage_ is the quality which enables men to meet +danger with fear overcome? The greatest courage might go farther than +the greatest pluck, but for occasions on which either can be used, +pluck, the more spontaneous, is also the superior. Most of us are +irregularly, erratically plucky; one man with horses, who funks the +sea; another man at sea who is afraid of horses. One man who fears live +fists may think nothing of watching by the dead. Another who stands up +pluckily in a fight, refuses to go near a corpse. One of the pluckiest +men I know 'don't like dogs.' Pluck runs in streaks, but courage, to +whatever degree a man possesses it, runs through him from top to +bottom. + +All the churches in the world may talk about sin and virtue, and make +most admirable and subtle distinctions. We know very well in our hearts +that pluck and courage are the great twin virtues, and that cowardice +is the fundamental sin. The perfectly plucky and courageous man would +never sin meanly; he would have no need to do so. He, and not the beefy +brute or the intellectual paragon, would be Superman. The Christ, it +often seems to me, keeps his hold on the world, and will keep it, not +because he was God-man or man-God, not because he was born normally or +abnormally, not because he redeemed mankind or didn't, not because he +provided a refuge for souls on their beam-ends, but because, of all the +great historic and legendary figures, he is the one who convinces us +that he was never afraid. In him, as we picture him, courage and pluck +were the same thing, and perfect. + +But the present point is, or points are: How many men whose pluck and +courage I have admired so much, have deceived me as I deceived Tony? +And what combination of pluck and courage is it which enables these +fishermen to follow their constantly dangerous occupation with equable +mind; which, indeed, enables so many working men to follow their +dangerous trades? For it is one thing to approach danger by way of +sport, and another to work for a livelihood _in_ danger. + +One's analytics fail. It is, however, stupid merely to say, "Ah, they +are inured to it. Familiarity has bred contempt." Seafaring men realise +the dangers of the sea a good deal better than anyone else. Familiarity +with the sea does not breed contempt; the older the seaman the more +careful he is. I have met old seamen, heroes in their day, whom one +would almost call nervous on the water. And in any case, what a state +of mind it is--to be _inured_ to danger! to be on familiar terms with +the possibility of death! to be able to flout, to play with, to live +on, that which all men fear! + + +24 + +[Sidenote: _LUSCOMBE_] + +I have been up the coast to have dinner and a chat with my old +coastguard friend, Ned Luscombe, the man who taught me knots and +splices during the night watches when I was a visitor here years ago. +To go to his house now is very pleasant. For a long time after their +first baby died on the day they entered a new house, before even the +beds were up, it seemed as if Mrs Luscombe, a gentle, delicate woman, +'with the deuce of a will of her own,' Luscombe says, was going to +decline and die too. The new baby, which was to have killed her, has +put new life into her instead. They are touchingly proud of it, and +very happy altogether. I do like to see married couples happy. + +Luscombe himself is rather an extraordinary man; short, vivacious and +solid; full of generous impulses, yet very well able to look after his +own interests. It was he who dared the neighbourhood, and caused his +wife to invite often to their house a crippled girl that had been raped +by a scoundrel and then given the cold-shoulder by everyone else. +Something of a sea-lawyer, he is one of the sharpest-brained--I don't +say deepest-thinking--men I have ever come across. Hardly educated at +all as a boy, he races through books (he read my Cary's _Dante_ in a +week), extracts the main gist of them, and is always learning some new +thing, from shorthand to cooking, though he has no need to do much but +behave himself for a pension. Almost harshly honest, he yet brings out +with pride a large edition of Pope that he 'nicked' from the +second-hand bookstall of a heathen Chinee at Singapore. That little +episode will not make a very big blot, I imagine, on the Book of +Judgment. If I remember aright, the British Navy was then occupied in +protecting land or concessions that the nation itself had 'nicked' from +the heathen. + +Luscombe's opinion on books, men and things, unless it has been +borrowed from a newspaper, is always well worth hearing. His light of +nature, by which he judges, is exceptionally powerful. + +While we were smoking in his front room--furnished with a curious +mixture of cheap English things and beautiful Eastern curios--a steward +from one of the great liners came in. He began talking about the +behaviour in a gale of a rich snobbish Jew and the behaviour of Jews +generally on shipboard, and was inclined to take up the high, superior, +patriotic attitude that Jews, not being Englishmen, were necessarily a +nuisance in a storm. "Well," said Luscombe, "all I know is, when a man +tells me he's never been afraid of anything anywhere, I tells him to +his face, 'You'm a damn'd liar!' One day, in a pub at Plymouth, there +was a man--a bluejacket too--boasting he'd never known what fear was, +and I up and asked him, 'Eh, chum? Did you say _Never_?' + +"'Never!' he says. 'Never in me life!' + +"'You'm a liar then,' says I. + +"'We'll see,' says he--goodish-sized chap. + +"'You'm a bloody liar,' says I, 'and what's more, you ain't truthful.' + +"So we squared up there and then, and the bung and his men hyked us out +into the street and we was having our scrap out when the police came +up. He ran! 'Eh, Mr Liar!' I yelled after him. 'Did you say you was +never afraid?' + +"If I hadn't wasted time doing that, I shouldn't have got caught +either. Very nearly landed me in chokey, that did. We was shipmates +afterwards, me and that man, and very good friends. He's a warrant +officer now." + +[Sidenote: _LOWER DECK TO QUARTER-DECK_] + +Thence the conversation passed naturally to promotion from the ranks. +"I don't believe in it, not as a general rule," said Luscombe. +"Officers ought to be officers, and men ought to be men, and a ship's +always more comfortable when both keep their places. Rankers as +officers are apt to be bullies: that we all know jolly well. And +besides that, the likes of us can't keep our kecker up the same as +gen'lemen, and therefore I says we ain't fit for the quarter-deck, not +yet awhile. Tisn't that the lower deck ain't so brave as the +quarter-deck, because it is; only it can't keep it up so long; it gets +discouraged like, when 'tis a long job, specially when 'tis one of +those waiting-an-doing-nothing jobs. We ain't bred up to it, and our +fathers wasn't, and there's no good to be got out of trying to pretend +'tisn't so." + +We argued on. Luscombe would not yield an inch of his position. I can't +say offhand how far history bears him out, but I fancy that he is right +to this extent: the lower deck has less flexibility of mind. It cannot +view a depressing situation from so many sides at once. It is not, for +instance, so quick to see the underlying humour of an emergency; not so +ready to appreciate the so-called irony of fate. It cannot so easily +turn round and laugh at itself and its predicament. So, though the +lower deck's courage may be fully as great as, or greater than, that +of the upper deck, it is applied more constantly, with less mental +diversion, and therefore it tires sooner. Hence, it _may_ not be +so effective. + +The argument undoubtedly has a true bearing on that sort of promotion +which, in the prevailing educational cant, is called giving every poor +boy (by free education, scholarships and other lures) his chance of +climbing to the top of the ladder--as if success in life were one great +tall ladder instead of many ladders of varying builds and heights. In +attempting to justify modern educational policy, its victims are egged +on too fast into a field of commercial, intellectual, or emotional +stress for which they lack the fundamental grit, or rather for which +the fundamental grit they do possess is not adapted, nor can be adapted +in a generation. Their spirit, fine and valuable for the old purpose +perhaps, is not suited to the new. Therefore, of good workmen _in +posse_ we make bad clerks and shopmen _in esse_; of good clerks +detestable little bureaucrats or mean-minded commercial men, and so on. +Possible wives and mothers we turn into female creatures. And Merrie +England swarms with makeshift folk and breakdowns. + +Happily nature, heredity, sometimes intervenes, and at adolescence the +sharp boy, the pride of the examination room, develops into quite a +nice commonplace young man, like the missionaries' nigger boy, and is +saved, if he be not already committed to an unsuitable career. +Otherwise, what mental deformity and slaughter! It was well said that +education--what is called education--was the cruellest thing ever +forced upon the poor. Mam Widger agrees. She knows her two boys are +above the average in brains, but she says: "I'd far rather for them to +fend for themselves an' make gude fishermen like their father or gude +sailors like their uncles, than for 'em to be forced on by somebody +else to what they ain't fitted for. 'Tis God helps them as helps +themselves, they du reckon, but I can't see as he helps them as is +pushed." + + +25 + +Uncle Jake allows us fine weather for the Regatta. "But when it du +break up, after this yer logie [dull, hazy, calm] spell, look out!" he +says. "Iss; look out!" + +[Sidenote: _WINKLING_] + +The day before yesterday, we were having a yarn together on the Front. +"Must go t'morrow an' pick Jemima Cayley some wrinkles [periwinkles]," +he said. "I got a lot o' work to do wi' my taties up to my plat +[allotment], but I promised Jemima her should hae 'em for Regatta, an' +her shall, if I lives to get 'em. Her says my wrinkles be twice so +heavy as anybody else's what her has--an' so they be, proper gert +gobbets! They t'other fellows don' know where to go for 'em, but I +du--master wrinkles, waiting there for Jake to pick 'em. On'y I ain't +goin' to tell they beer-barrels where 'em be. Not I!--Wude yu like to +come? Nobody goes where I goes." + +"Where's that?" + +"Ah! Down to Longo. Yu'll see, if yu comes." + +"Haven't yu got a mate for it then?" + +[Sidenote: _UNCLE JAKE_] + +"_Mate!_ I'd rather go be myself than wi' some o' they bladder-headed +friends o' brewers. _They_ don' like wrinklin' wi' Jake; makes 'em blow +too much when they has to carry a bushel o' wrinkles, like I've a-done +often, over the rocks an' up the cliff, two or dree miles home. They +Double-X Barrels can't du that. Lord! can't expect 'em to.--_We'll_ go +in the _Moondaisy_ t'morrow, an' then if we can't sail home, we can +row, an' if it comes on a fresh wind, we'll haul her up to Refuge Cove +an' go'n look how my orchards be getting on." + +It is good to hear Uncle Jake talk about the work that nobody else will +do. (The exposure alone would be too much for many of them.) His face +wrinkles up within its grey picture-frame beard, his keen yet wistful +eyes open wide, and he draws up that youthful body of his--clad in +faded blue jumper and torn trousers--on which the head of a venerable +old man seems so incongruously set. He is the owner of a big drifter +which hardly pays her expenses; he feels that taking out pleasure +parties is no work for a fisherman--'never wasn't used to be at the +beck an' call o' they sort o' people when I wer young';--and therefore +he picks up a living, laborious but very independent, between high and +low tide mark for many miles east and west of Seacombe. Nobody learns +exactly when or where he goes, nor what little valuables are in the old +sack that he carries. He seldom sleeps for more than two hours on end; +has breakfast at midnight, dinner in the early morning, and tea-supper +only if it happens to be handy; and he feeds mainly on bread, cheese, +sugar and much butter, with an occasional feast of half a dozen +mackerel at once, or a skate or a small conger. Singularly +straightforward in all his dealings, a little of the old West-country +wrecking spirit yet survives in him, and he enjoys nothing better than +smuggling jetsam past the coastguards. Social position saves no one +from hearing what Uncle Jake thinks. His tongue is loaded with scorn +and sarcasm, but his heart holds nothing but kindness. He will jeer and +taunt a man off the Front, and give him money round the corner or food +in house. His nicknames are terrible--they stick. Few would care to +turn and fight such an old man, and if they did he would almost +certainly knock them into the dust or throw them into the sea. He is +childless; and, since her illness several years ago, his wife, an +untidy woman with beautiful eyes, has been scatterbrained and more +trouble than use, a spender of his savings. He nursed her himself for +many months. He does most of the housework now. He may remark on his +wife, if he knows you very well, but about the childlessness he never +talks. + +At eight in the morning we made sail with the wind just north of east. +The little _Moondaisy_ was full of sacks, old boots and gear. Past +Refuge Cove we sailed, past Dog Tooth Ledge, and across the out-ground +of Landlock Bay, which holds the last long stretch of pebble beach for +some miles down. Uncle Jake pointed to the western end of it. "If ever +yu'm catched down here by a sou'wester, yu can al'ays run ashore, just +there--calm as a mill-pond no matter how 'tis blowing. Yu can beach +there when yu can't beach to Seacombe for the roughness o' the sea. +Aye, I've a-done it! But yu can't get out o' Landlock Bay, though I +mind when you could climb up the cliff jest to the east'ard o' thic +roozing [landslip]. Howsbe-ever, 'tis a heavy gale from the south-east +on a long spring tide as'll drive 'ee out o' thic cave there where the +beach urns up. Now yu knows that: 'tisn't all o'em does." + +Similar bits of lore or reminiscence did he give me about every few +yards of the coastline. Most merrily had the easterly wind and a +following sea brought us down. Now we drew near the rocks, where at +high tide the land drops sheer to the water. In the dry sunshine, such +a sparkle was on the waves, such a shimmer on the high red cliffs, that +it was hard to follow Uncle Jake when he said, as if he revered the +place, "_'Tis_ an ironbound show! _'Tis_ a shop! Poor devils, what gets +throwed up here! But I know where ther's some fine copper bolts waiting +for me. I'll hae 'em! I've had some on 'em, an' I'll hae the rest when +they rots out o' the timbers. Year '63 that wreck was--lovely vessel, +loaded wi' corn. I mind it well. _'Twas_ a night!" + +[Sidenote: _AN IRONBOUND SHOW_] + +We ran the _Moondaisy_ ashore at Brandey-Keg Cove--a little beach +running up into a deep gloomy cave where the smugglers used to store +their cargoes and haul them up over the cliff. "Us can walk down to +Lobster Ledge an' west from there to Tatie Rock. I knows where they +master gobbets be, if nobody an't had 'em--an' nobody an't. They don' +like this iron-bound shop. They leaves it to Jake. But they wuden't, if +they know'd what was here." + +I ate some of my breakfast while Uncle Jake was changing his boots and +shifting his outer clothing. He would accept only one of my small +cheese sandwiches. "I got some bread and butter here," he said, but I +'took partic'lar notice,' as Tony puts it, that he ate none of the +bread and butter. And he refused to take a second sip of my tea because +his sensitive nose detected that there had been whiskey in the bottle. + +As we walked along the rocks, he placed above high-tide mark what bits +of wreckage he could find, and kept a sharp look-out for any rabbits +which might have fallen over the cliff. The only two we found, however, +had been partially eaten by sea-gulls and rats. "Let 'em hae 'em an' +welcome," said Uncle Jake. "The winter's coming. I can't think how they +poor gulls lives when all the sea round about is a hustle o' froth. I +al'ays feeds 'em when I can. Don't yu think that _they_ gets hungry +tu?" + +At Lobster Ledge--a jumble of peaked rocks with pools between--he left +his sack conspicuously on the top of a high stone, and hopped--seemed +to hop--down to a pool. "They'm here!" he cried. I heard them +clatter-clatter into his old cake tin, and then a tin-full rattle into +his sack. On those rocks, where few can step at all without great care, +he raced about, bent down double, and jumped and glided as actively as +an acrobat--a veritable rock-man. "Come here!" he called. "Jest yu turn +over thic stone. Ther's some there. My senses, what gobbets they be! If +they ther fuddle-heads what goes nosing about Broken Rocks, on'y +know'd...." + +Underneath the stone, clinging to it and lying on the bed of the pool, +were so many large winkles that instead of picking them out, I found it +quicker to sweep up handfuls of loose stuff and then to pick out the +refuse from the winkles. When Uncle Jake came across an unusually good +pocket he would call me to it and hop on somewhere else. There was an +element of sport in catching the dull-looking gobbets so many together. +I soon got to know the likely stones--heavy ones that wanted coaxing +over,--and discovered also that the winkles hide themselves in a green, +rather gelatinous weed, fuzzy like kale tops, from which they can be +combed with the fingers. They love, too, a shadowed pool which is +tainted a little, but not too much, by decaying vegetable matter. Uncle +Jake likes the stones turned back and then replaced 'as you finds 'em.' + +[Sidenote: _WHAT GOBBETS THEY BE!_] + +I emptied my baler, holding perhaps a quart, into the ballast-bag. How +one's back ached! How old and rheumaticy had one's knees suddenly +become! Uncle Jake feels nothing of that, for all his sixty-five years. +He still skipped from pool to pool. He flung me a lobster. "There! put +that in your bag for tay. Tide's dead low. The wind's dying away: sun's +burnt it up. Shuden' wonder if it don't come in sou'west, an' if it du +we'll hae a fair wind home along.--Well, how du 'ee like it? Eh?" + +"All right." + +"Ah! yu ought to be down here in the winter, like I been, when you got +to put your hands wet into your pockets to get 'em warm enough to feel +the gobbets--aye, to hold 'em! Then carry 'em five mile home on your +back to make 'ee warm again." + +So we went on: grab, grab, grab! clatter-clatter! rattle! We talked +less and worked harder, because we were tired. The tide crept up. The +wind veered to south-east and strengthened. "'Tis time to be off out of +thees yer," said Uncle Jake. "The lop'll rise when the flid tide makes. +Yu may know everything there is to know about fishing, but," he added +grimly, "if yu don' know when to be off, 'twill all o'it be no gude to +'ee some day. Blast thees wind! We'll hae to row home now, or ratch out +a couple o' miles to fetch in." + +We shouldered our sacks for the half-mile walk to the _Moondaisy_. +Walk.... Scramble! Uncle Jake seemed to glide from rock to rock, but +with two or three stone weight awkwardly perched on my shoulder, the +wet running down my neck and an arm going numb, I slithered down the +weed-covered slopes in a very breakneck fashion. I rather felt for the +bladderheads who refuse to go wrinkling far from home. + +[Sidenote: _CAUGHT BY THE TIDE_] + +Afloat again, we used the winkles for ballast in place of shingle. The +lop _had_ made, and was against us. We rowed up Landlock Bay to the +western side of Dog Tooth Ledge. Uncle Jake made an exclamation and +stood up. "What's that? Whoever's that? There! down there to Lobster +Ledge! A gen'leman an' lady, looks so. How did us come to miss they? +Look! They'm sittin' down, the fules!--Hi, yu! Hi! Hi!--They'm catched. +When yu see the water washing over the Dog's Tooth, yu can't get round +the ledge wi'out swimming.--Hi, yu! Hi!--They'm in for a night o'it +sure, till the tide falls, if we don' take 'em round to Refuge Cove. +Ther's nowhere there where they be, to get upon land.--Hi! Hi! +Yu!--They'm mazed. An' her an't got no stockings on nuther.--Hi! hi! +Hurry up!--Can't bide here all day. The flid and the sea's making +fast." + +They came on at a leisurely pace. The Dog's Tooth was continuously +awash. Spray broke on it. "D'yu know," said Uncle Jake when they were +near enough, "that yu'm catched by the tide? Yu'm in for a night o'it +on this yer beach, wi'out yu swims round the ledge or lets we row yu to +the lane in Refuge Cove. Yu can't get up on land herefrom." + +"Oh...." said the man. "We'd better come on board your boat then." + +It took Uncle Jake nearly half-an-hour to row the three-quarters of a +mile across the tide-rip on the ledge and into Refuge Cove. I carefully +refrained from doing anything to lead them to suppose that they were +aboard other than a fishing boat. It was Uncle Jake's expedition: his +the prospective reward. When I helped the man ashore, he put some +coppers into my hand. "There's threepence for the old man's tobacco," +he said with an air of great benevolence. I was too surprised to speak: +I pushed off and then burst into a laugh. + +"What did 'er give 'ee?" + +"Threepence. _Threepence!_ For your tobacco!" + +"Thank yu. I don't use tobacco. Yu'd better keep thic donation. They'd +ha' catched their death o' cold there all night, an' there ain't no +other boats down here along, nor won't be. That's what they reckons +their bloody lives be worth, an' that's what the lives of the likes o' +they _be_ worth, tu! Dreepence! My senses...." + +We roared with laughter. It put heart into us for our stiff row home +against wind, wave and tide. When I went for'ard to place the cut-rope +ready, Uncle Jake had to call me aft again: spite of his strength the +boat was being beaten to leeward. + +It was nearly four o'clock when we had hauled up and were carrying the +winkles on our backs down one of the untidy little roadways into Under +Town. No dinner or high-tea was waiting for Uncle Jake. The house was +unswept. How draggled the little bits of fern in the old china pots +looked! The fire was out; the hearth piled up with ashes; and on the +table stood a basin of potatoes in water, most of them unpeeled. + +Uncle Jake came to a standstill, acutely alive in the midst of a +domestic deadness. He raised himself upright beneath his load of +winkles. "That's what I got to put up wi'," he said. "An't had a bite +since breakfast at four by the clock this morning, 'cept thic sandwich +o' yours. Tis a wonder how I du put up wi' it. I don' know for sure." + +[Sidenote: _MEASURING UP_] + +"Thees is what I got to put up wi'!" he repeated when Mrs Jake came in +from a neighbour's. + +"I forgot," she said with a gay high-pitched little laugh which had in +it a tang of acquiescent despair--the echo of a mind that has ceased +fighting anything, even itself. + +"Forgot! Yu forgets!" Then in a softer tone: "Gie us the quart cup." + +He emptied my winkles out upon the stone floor, knelt down, and +measured them back into the ballast-bag: "one--two--three--four, that's +one--five--six--seven--eight, that's two pecks--nine--ten--half a peck +over; good for you, skipper!" He had four pecks himself, together with +several small lobsters which he threw out to me. + +"But you'll eat those...." + +"No, I shan't. Don't want 'em. Take 'em in home for yer tay." + +Then he hunted out of an inside breast-pocket a screw of newspaper, and +from it took a half-crown piece: + +"That's your share." + +"But...." + +"Go on! If you hadn' a-come I should ha' been the poorer by more'n +that, an' that's what one o' they beery bladderheads would ha' had if +they'd a-come--on'y I won't hae 'em 'long wi' me. Better yu to hae it +than one o' they, to gie to the brewer. I wishes 'ee to take it. Yu've +earned it, an' thank yu for your help. _I_ done all right out +o'it." + + +26 + +The Regatta has gone off well. The day was fine, the wind nor'west and +not too squally. There was a brave show of bunting; very many people +and several bands came down to the short Front; and there were races on +the water, in the water, and, in the evening, on land. The sea +sparkled. The place was all of a flutter. Uncle Jake, irritated by the +invasion of his beach, became most scornful over the abundance of high +starched collars, and the kid gloves of the shop-assistants. Some of +the young Seacombe braves collected round to tease him and, if +possible, to work him into one of his famous passions. But they dared +not so much as nudge him; he is too earnest, too vigorous. He lashed +them off with his tongue. And when a dinghy capsized through trying to +sail off the wind in a squall, it was the old man who was quickest at +the water's edge with a punt, and first on the spot, although a +four-oared boat raced out to the rescue. + +[Sidenote: _REGATTA_] + +Some of the Widgers won races, I believe. One takes no great note of +prizes: they are too small. The Regatta is not primarily an affair of +the fisherfolk; to take any great part in it would be to neglect their +own work; and when they do race, they have a neat method of defeating +the patronage of the townsfolk who provide prize-money in order that +they and the visitors may enjoy the spectacle of fishermen (in fisher +phrase) pulling their insides out for nort. The prize-money is pooled +and divided among all the competitors. In consequence, the races are +rowed and sailed with great dignity, and many of the visitors excite +themselves halfway to delirium over the extreme--the make-believe +closeness of the finishes. It is not very sporting perhaps, but +indulgence in the sporting spirit is for those who can afford it. The +Seacombe fisherfolk can't. + +A confounding number of the Widger family and its connexions arrived by +boat, road and rail. Two or three grand teas were provided one after +the other. Mrs Widger--looking really very young, alert, and +pretty--packed the children off to the beach with gentry-cakes in their +hands. Well she did so, for every chair in the kitchen was occupied by +some relative, and the display of best clothes was most alarming. Worst +of all, one party had brought the family idiot--a simpering, lollopy +creature, stiff in the wrong places, who could not feed himself +properly. With a vigorous tapping of the forehead, he was pointed out +to me. "He's a little deeficient, you know, sir--something lacking." +The idiot, finding himself the centre of attraction, fairly crowed with +delight. "Ou-ah!" he went. "Ou-ah! ou-ah!" + +On the pretext that a boat wanted hauling up, I escaped, with a piece +of bread and jam in my hand, like the children. + +A man of slightly unsober dignity accosted me in the Gut, and asked if +Jim somebody-or-other was within. "Him and me don't speak, nor eet +meet," he explained. "I won't hae nort to do wi' he, nor enter the +house where he is, for all we be related.--Come an' have a drink 'long +wi' me, sir; now du; I asks 'ee.--'Tis safer, yu know, for us not to +meet." + +For the second time I lied, and escaped. + +[Sidenote: _THE VETERANS' RACE_] + +Uncle Jake ran up from the beach. "Yer!" he said, "there's a race to +Saltmeadow, a veteran's race, for men over fifty. Yu come wi' me, an' +I'll go in for it--an' beat the lot, I will. I knows I can." Off we +went, Uncle Jake in a high excitement. At the centre of the big oblong +ring, two clean-built jumpers, men in the heyday of their strength, +were making a local record for the high jump. Uncle Jake shouted out +praise and sympathy to them. We found our way to where the veterans +were grouped together, encouraging each other to enter with much foul +language--which made them feel young again, no doubt. What a lot they +were! some aged to thinness, others become fat and piggish. Only Uncle +Jake appeared quite sound in wind and limb. He took off his boots and +stockings, walked into the ring with a fine imitation of the athlete's +swagger combined with a curious touch of shyness. "Go it Uncle Jake!" +they shouted. At the end of the first lap, he found himself so far +ahead that he threw his old round sailor's cap high into the air and +caught it, and he skipped along to the winning-post like a young lamb. +A great cheer was echoed from cliff to cliff. Uncle Jake has not spoken +his mind all his life for nothing. Seacombe does not unanimously like +him, but it has the sense to be rather proud of him. A veterans' race +is usually a sad spectacle, a grotesque _memento mori_: for Uncle +Jake 'twas a triumph. + +The next great sight of the evening was to watch the fishermen from +other villages put off to their boats. Most of them were 'half seas +over,' some nearly helpless. They were thrown aboard from the punts and +had their sails hoisted for them; or, if they did it themselves, it was +with most comic jerks. The gods, who undoubtedly have a tenderness for +drunkards--why not?--must have looked after them, for no news has come +of any accident. + +On returning in house, I met Tony with several of his men relatives. He +drew me aside. "Maybe I'll come home drunk to-night, but I promise 'ee +I won't disturb 'ee, an' if yu hears ort--well, yu'll know, won' 'ee?" + +For some reason not easily to be fathomed his kindly warning made me +feel ashamed of my own sobriety, ashamed that I dared not 'go on the +bust' with him. I firmly believe that it does a man good to 'go on the +bust' occasionally. It develops fellow-feeling. And besides, who has +the right to cast a stone at a man for snatching a little jollity when +he may, be it alcoholic or not? The truth is, that Tony, who has no +craving for drink, was prepared to plunge into the fastest current of +the life around him, and to take his chance, whilst I, for niggardly, +self-preservative, prudential reasons, was not. + +However, he came home quite sober. + + +27 + +[Sidenote: _THE SQUARE'S AWAKENING_] + +Up-country, next week, I shall greatly miss my window overlooking +Alexandra Square. I have lived (rebelliously) in suburban streets where +only clattering feet, tradesmen's carts and pitiful street singers +broke the monotony; in a Paris _chambre a garcon, au sixieme_, where +the view was roofs and the noise of the city was attenuated to a +murmur; in country houses which looked out on sweeps of hill, down, +vale and sea, so changeable and lovely that they were dreamlike and as +a dream abide in the memory.... Here I have quick human life just below +my window, and--up the Gut--a view of the sea unbroken hence to the +horizon; a patch of water framed on three sides by straight walls and +on the fourth by the sky-line; a miniature ocean across which the +drifters sail to the western offing, and the little boats curvet to and +fro, and + + The stately ships go on + To their haven under the hill. + +There is always, here, a sound of the sea. When, at night, the Square +is still, it seems to advance, to come nearer, to be claiming one for +its own. + +But the Square, though still at night compared with daytime, is never +dead, never absolutely asleep. Fishermen returning from sea crunch on +the gravel. Lights in the windows (most of the people seem to burn +night lamps) give it a cosy appearance; the cats make one think that +fiends are pouring out of hell, through a hole in the roadway. Peep o' +day is the stillest time of all. The cats seat themselves on walls. +Sparrows chirp sleepily. Some rooks and a hoary-headed jackdaw come +down from the trees nearby, quarter the roadway for garbage, and fly +away croaking. Busy starlings follow. If the weather is hard and fish +offal scarce on the beach, the gulls will pay us a supercilious visit. +About six o'clock the children begin singing in bed, and soon +afterwards one hears the familiar conversation of families getting up. +"Edie! what for the Lord's sake be yu doing? Yu'll catch your death o' +cold. Johnnie, if yu don't make haste, I'll knock your head off, I +will!" A child or two may cry, but on the whole their merriment does +not seem greatly damped by their mothers' blood-curdling threats. I +hear also, but not very often, the shrill wailing monotone, the weep +dissolved in a shout, of a woman upbraiding her man for the previous +night. + +The children being dressed, but not washed (it is useless to wash the +average child very long before sending it off to school), they run out +to the beach to see what there is to be seen and to inspect the +ash-buckets for treasure. An ash-bucket is Eldorado to them. If nothing +is happening, are they at a loss for something to do? By no means. They +come in house, fetch out tin cans, and beat them in a procession round +the Square. + +The milkmen arrive, then several greengrocers. One would think that +Under Town lived on vegetables. The explanation is that the +greengrocers can come here, and, in tidying up their carts, can throw +their refuse upon the roadway, as they would not be allowed to do in +'higher class' streets. They swear genially at the housewives, and are +forgiven. + +So the work and gossip of the day goes on, with a slight quieting down +in the afternoon and an incredible amount of conversation after work, +in the evening. + +[Sidenote: _THE ALEXANDRA BACK-DOOR_] + +On Sundays, the great fact of best clothes lends a different and, to my +mind, a less pleasant--a harder--tone to the children's voices. But +their merriment cannot wholly be suppressed. Did those who dislike the +Salvation Army wish to illustrate its shortcomings, they could find a +biting satire ready-made by the children of Under Town. A fat small boy +comes round here, who has attentively studied the meetings; who can +copy the canting, up-and-down, gentle-explosive, the _Behold I am +saved, ye sinners_! tone to a nicety. He marches at the head of a +band of serious infants who bear rags, tied to sticks and parasols, as +banners. Every now and then he circles them to a standstill for an +harangue about blood, fire and Jesus. (It is the gory part which +delights him.) Then the procession re-forms, imitating brass +instruments as unbroken voices can, and singing a Salvation hymn. They +are earnest, the children; except Tommy Widger, whose irrepressible +spirit causes him to march in the rear with a mocking dance and an +infinitely grotesque squint. He is a pagan. He can turn the children's +serious imitation into roaring Aristophanic farce. He represents the +healthful laughing element of an age wherein rest from sorrow is too +much sought in fever. He infects us all with jollity. + + * * * * * + +The back-door of the Alexandra, which opens on the Gut, is my home +comedy. It is strangely fascinating; sad in a way, but very human; for +nothing on earth, except one or two of the very great things of life, +is so democratic as the back-door of a public house. Soon after +breakfast, or even before, the tradesmen sneak round for their +pick-me-ups. Then the housewives go for their jugs of ale and stout. +Some people never enter the Alexandra except by the back way. They +march down the Gut as if on important business; then, in the twinkling +of an eye, they are gone within. One worn little woman, who wears a +loose cape and a squalid sailor hat, walks up and down the Gut till it +is completely clear, then jumps into the door, and closes it very +quietly. When she comes out again it is as a rabbit comes from a +bolt-hole when a ferret is just behind. She runs five yards, stands +still, looks up and down, and tries very hard to walk home +unconcernedly. Sunday evenings, she hangs about outside until the bar +is opened. With the turn of the key, in she goes. Once a servant, +gossiping with her sailorman, kept the little woman outside for fully +ten minutes after the lock was shot back. Poor little woman, how great +her craving must be! + +Last week, I saw a policeman standing at the top of the Gut. Up he +looked; down he looked; Seacombe was orderly. Stepping as if to arrest +a malefactor, he marched down the Gut.... Where was the policeman? A +battered billycock and a rakish pipe looked round the corner, then +withdrew. The battered billycock knew where the policeman was. The +price of a glass, and billycock would have been there too. + +I was glad; for a few days before that the same policeman had arrested +a man by flinging him halfway across the street into the mud. It was +only a tramp. His witnesses, being poor people, dared not volunteer to +give evidence on his behalf, and would not have been believed had they +done so. He was sentenced to fourteen days: drunk and incapable, +abusive moreover. A drunkard cannot legally be arrested unless he is +also incapable or disorderly. It used to be a trick of the police to +shadow a harmless _Weary Willie_ until he happened to stumble, or even +to butt him down themselves. He then becomes drunk and incapable within +the meaning of the act, for, if the magistrate should doubt, is there +not dirt on his clothes? Obviously, circumstantially, he was incapable. +_He_, of course, must be a poor man. The trick is not safe with +tradesmen. These things are commonplaces amongst the poor. + +But billycock hat will not forget! + + +28 + +[Sidenote: _MACKEREL DRIFTING_] + +Yesterday morning early there was a great excitement along the beach. +Drift-boats could be seen in the offing. "I tell thee what 'tis," they +said, "the whiting be in an' us chaps an't been out to look for 'em. Us +don't du nort nowadays like us used tu." Later on, however, we heard +that the Plymouth drifters had been out after an autumn shoal of +mackerel, had caught some thousands and had made good prices. The +season for mackerel drifting here usually ends with July or August, but +good October mackerel, mixed with herring, have occasionally been +caught. Tony, John and myself decided to put to sea. When the other +boats saw our fleet of nets being hauled aboard (in a furious hurry), +they fitted out too. + +We shoved off just before dark. The wind was strongish WSW.--off land, +that is--so that inshore the sea was almost calm, except for the swell +running in from outside. What it was like outside the white horses and +the wind-streaks showed. Hardly had we gone half a mile before we heard +the queer clutching noise which meant that a strong puff of wind had +compelled Tony to let the sheet fly. The squall past, he hauled it in +again, put his legs across the stern and hung on. We sailed eight miles +from land in ten minutes under the hour--speed, that, for a +twenty-two-foot open boat with its mainsail reefed! Where we downhauled +to shoot the nets, the sea, unsheltered by cliffs and headlands, +was--as Tony beautifully put it--'rising all up in heaps.' Whilst I was +trying to keep the boat before the wind, for net-shooting, a great +comber plopped over the stern right upon my back. The sky was weird. +Great wind-drifts of rain-cloud constantly spread out from the west, +and wolves, higher up in the sky, were driving across the moon. We +heated tea, but did not try to sleep. Tony and John kept up a curious +dialogue. "What do 'ee think o' it, then?" + +"'Tisn't vitty. I said so all along." + +[Sidenote: _HAULING INBOARD_] + +"If a skat o' rain comes--and 'tis raining on land, seems so--the +wind'll back out to sou'west, an' us'll hae to rin for it. A perty +lop'll get up tu, an' we'm more'n a mile from land." + +"Us'll haul in be 'leven. No gude hanging on out here. If the wind +_du_ back...." + +I have never heard them talk so much about the weather. And all the +while, the sky drove into splendid cloud-forms, all windy, nearly all +rainy. We lost the Eddystone light, then lost the Seacombe light and +recovered the former, as a storm drifted along shore. From time to time +we thought the wind was backing a bit. + +Supper, for me, had to be crammed down on a rather queasy stomach. +"We'm all ways to once!" Tony remarked. The wind did definitely back a +point or two. "Only let it once die away," said Tony in the tone of _I +told you so_; "then yu'll see how it can spring from the sou'west when +'tis a-minded." + +One minute I wished myself home, safe in bed, and thought with +grotesque grief of some unfinished work. Next minute, I knew that I +would not have missed the night out there for any consideration. The +grey, slightly sheeny boil of the sea around us; the sweeping savagery +of the sky; the intimacy of the waters.... + +But we were all relieved when eleven o'clock came. The watchfulness was +a strain. + +When one is steering instead of hauling, the getting-in of nine +forty-fathom nets seems interminable. One net, two nets, three nets--a +third of nine,--four, five--more than half the fleet,--six--two-thirds +of nine,--seven, eight--nine all but one;--and so on, with an +occasional wave coming inboard, until the very last square buoy comes +bobbing towards the boat; hand over hand, buoy by buoy, net by net, +holding fast when the pull of the tide is too strong, and pausing +irritably to pick out the fish. We stepped the great mast, shifted all +the ballast to wind'ard. John came aft to steer, and seated himself on +the counter, a strangely powerful, statuesque figure in his wet +oilskins. "Have 'ee got the sheet in yer hand?" Tony called out from +the bows. + +John did not trouble to reply. + +"Have 'ee got the sheet in yer hand, John?" + +"No, I an't! What the hell do 'ee want the sheet for? Wind's abeam." + +"Might want it bad," said Tony. + +[Sidenote: _A REMBRANDTESQUE PICTURE_] + +We left it fast however; and with the same, an elemental passion took +possession of my mind; ousted all else. I had been anxious about the +sheet, had thought John foolhardy. Now I didn't care. I could have +cried out aloud for joy as the brave old craft rose to the seas with a +marvellous easy motion and the waves came skatting in over the bows. +Before long, I was on my knees with the baler; John was getting every +inch out of the wind, and Tony was standing abaft the nets with the +sheet dangling through his hand. By the light of the riding-lamp on the +mizzen mast (its glass patched with an old jam cover), they in their +angular wet oil-skins--the rain was pelting--and the rich wet brown of +the boat's varnish, made a wonderful Rembrandtesque picture. I hardly +know how long we were sailing home; it slipped my mind to take the +time. About two o'clock I was halfway down the beach with Tony cursing +above me and John doing the same below. Someone had 'messed up' our +capstan wire. While Tony was putting that right in the dark--and +pinching his fingers severely--the boat washed broadside on and began +to fill. We had only five dozen fish. They sold badly. + +In time, and with practice, I could, I believe, do most that these +fishermen do except one thing: I doubt I could stand the racket of my +own thoughts. Tony and John would go out to-night, to-morrow, every +night. But I have slept so dead (not from bodily tiredness) that, the +door being bolted against the children, they were unable to waken me +for dinner, and in the end Tony told them to 'let the poor beast bide.' +Of what nature was that passion, so exultant and so tiring? Are these +fishermen so used to it that they 'don't take much note o'it'? For they +feel it. I have seen it in their faces. One can always tell. The eyes +widen and brighten; hasty movements become so desperately cool. If what +was an episode in my life, is part and parcel of theirs, how much the +better for _them_! + + +29 + +To-day the sea passion, or whatever it is, came again. + +While I was asleep, the wind backed and freshened. Balks of wood from a +naval target kept washing in. Balks make winter firing when coal is +dear and money scarce. Boats had been bringing them in all the morning, +till the sea became too rough. Tony had none however. In the afternoon +he complained bitterly: + +"They all got some wude but me, an' us an't got enough in house for the +winter nuther." Just then we saw a large piece washing along on the +flood tide over the outside of Broken Rocks. "Get a rope--grass rope, +mind. Down with her. The _Cock Robin_! Quick. Jump aboard. Take oars. +Hurry up casn'? Get hold thic oar. Look out!" + +[Sidenote: _OUT AFTER FLOTSAM_] + +No time to wait for a smooth. Tony shoved the _Cock Robin_ into a surf +we should not otherwise have thought of facing. As it turned out, we +got off better than we usually do in only a moderate sea, though we +should have capsized to a certainty had the boat sheered. 'Twas, "Look +out! Damme, look out! Here's a swell coming! Get her head to it or we'm +over. Gude for us!" Some of the waves, rising and topping in the +shallow water over the rocks, seemed to make the _Cock Robin_ sit +upright on her stern, like a dog begging, and the higher the seas rose +the more we gloried in them. Sufficient for the moment was the wave +thereof. We swore at each other in a sort of chant. I had to repress an +impulse to jump overboard and swim to the balk, instead of trying to +work up to it with a boat that had, every other moment, to be turned +bows on to the sea. The slightest error of judgment on Tony's part, and +we should indeed have swum for it. I had such a curious feeling of +being _in_ the sea--as much a part of it as the waves themselves--that +the affair ceased to be a struggle. It became a glorious great big +game. Yet for work we were so cool that, though we towed our balk +ashore and shoved off after another, we hardly got wet above the knees. + +We were beside ourselves, and all ourselves. Where does that exultant +feeling, that devil-beyond-oneself, come from? From what depth of human +personality does it uprise, whirling, like those primitive +passions--sex, hunger, rage, fear--which may be boxed up awhile by the +will, but which, once unloosed, sweep the will aside and carry one off +like froth in a gale, until physical exhaustion sets in and allows the +will to re-assert itself? One understands the evolution of the +primitive self-preservative and race-preservative passions. How has +this latent daredevilry become so implanted in us that it rises from +the bottom depths of one's nature; and how has it become ordinarily so +hidden? + +Above all what is the effect of this passion on seafaring men? To say +that familiarity breeds contempt is--even if it be correct--to beg the +question. What is the effect of that familiarity? It might be said that +they are the subjects of a sub-acute, persistent form of the +daredevilry which uprose in me unexpectedly and acutely. But again, the +sub-acute lifelong form of it is likely to have the greater influence +on a man's self, on his morale and his character. Hence, I believe, the +width of these men, their largeness. It was good to hear Tony talk in +the most matter-of-fact manner (yet with a touch of reverence, as +towards an ever-possible contingency) of a Salcombe fisherman who was +drowned. "Her was drownded all through his own carelessness, and didn't +rise in the water for a month. ('Tis nine days down and nine days up, +wi' the crab bites out of 'ee, as a rule.) An' he wer carried up by the +tide an' collected, like, out o' the water just at the back o' his own +house. Nice quiet chap he was." That coolness of speech one saw +plainly, is the outcome not of contempt, still less of non-feeling, but +of familiarity, of a breadth of mind in looking at the catastrophe. I +have not noticed such breadth of mind elsewhere except among those who +live precariously and the few of very great religious faith. + +An hour after bringing in the balks, we were hauling the boats over the +wall, and at high tide the seas swept across the road. + + +30 + +[Sidenote: _A SING-SONG_] + +Many an evening we have had small sing-songs in the kitchen. To-night, +on account of my going and the need to give me a cheery send-off, we +had quite a concert. Tony was star. + +Supper being pushed back on the table and a piece of wreckage flung on +the fire, he made himself ready by taking off his soaked boots and +stockings, and plumping his feet on Mam Widger's lap; then brought +himself into the vocal mood with a long rigmarole that he used to +recite with the Mummers at Christmas time. Soon we were humming, +whistling and singing "Sweet Evelina," whose sole musical merit is that +her chorus goes with a swing. The fire crackled and burnt blue. The +fragrant steam of the grog rose to the ceiling and settled on the +window. We leaned right back in our chairs. + +"Missis," said Tony, "I feels like zingin' to-night." + +"Wait a minute while I shuts the door, else they kids'll be down for +more supper." + +"Us got it, an't us?" + +"Yes, but _they_'ve had enough." + +When Tony sings, he throws his head back and closes his eyes, so that, +but for the motions of his mouth, he looks asleep, even deathlike, and +is, in fact, withdrawn into himself. + +I think he sees his songs, as well as sings them. I often wonder what +pictures are flitting through his mind beneath (as I imagine) the place +where the thick grizzled hair thins to the red forehead. His voice is a +high tenor. I make accompaniment an octave below, whilst Mrs Widger--a +little nasal in tone and not infrequently adrift in tune--supports him +from above. + +We sang "The Poor Smuggler's Boy"-- + + Your pity I crave, + Won't you give me employ? + Or forlorn I must wander, + Said the poor smuggler's boy. + +Then the "Skipper and his Boy"-- + + Over the mounting waves so 'igh, + We'll sail together, my boy and I-I, + We'll sail together, my bo-oy and I! + +"Have 'ee wrote to George?" Tony asked. + +"'Tis your place to du that." + +"I an't got time...." + +"Thee asn't got time for nort!" + + The fisher's is a merry life! + Blow, winds, blow! + The fisher and his vitty wife! + Row, boys, row! + He drives no plough on stubborn land, + His fruits are ready to his hand. + No nipping frosts his orchards fear, + He has his autumn all the year, + Blow, winds, blow! + + The farmer has his rent to pay, + Blow, winds, blow! + And seeds to purchase every day, + Row, boys, row! + But he who farms the rolling deep, + He never sows, can always reap, + The ocean's fields are fair and free, + There ain't no rent days on the sea; + The fisher's is a merry life! + Blow, winds, blow! + Blow, damn ye, blow! + +"Aye!" said Tony with conviction, "thic's one side o'it." + +[Sidenote: "_ROLLING HOME_"] + +He tried a note or two at different pitches, then struck with energy +into the fine song, "Rolling Home." (Who that has steered for England +in a ship--and by ship I do not mean a bustling steam-packet or a +floating hotel, but a ship to whose crew England stands for fresh food, +women, wine, home.... Who that has so steered the course for England, +does not feel a catch at his vitals on hearing the melody, at once +plaintive and triumphant, of "Rolling Home?") + + Pipe all hands to man the capstan, see your cables run down clear; + Soon our ship will weigh her anchor, for old England's shores we steer; + If we heave round with a will boys, soon our anchor it will trip, + And across the briny ocean we will steer our gallant ship: + Rolling home, rolling home! + Rolling home across the sea! + Rolling home to Merrie England! + Rolling home, true love, to thee! + + Man the bars then with a will, boys, clap all hands that can clap on; + As we heave around the capstan, we will sing this well-known song; + It will bring back scenes and changes of this parting gift so rare; + We shall hear sweet songs of music softly whispering through the air. + Rolling home, rolling home! + Rolling home across the sea! + Rolling home to Merrie England! + Rolling home, true love, to thee! + + Up aloft amid the rigging, as we sail the waters blue, + Whilst we cross the briny ocean, we will always think of you; + We will leave you our best wishes as we leave this rocky shore; + We are bound for Merrie England, to return to you no more! + Rolling home, rolling home! + Rolling home, across the sea! + Rolling home to Merrie England! + Rolling home, my love to thee! + +To Mrs Widger's great disgust, Tony has been learning _in bed_ the +correct words (he knew the tune) of "Gay Spanish Ladies." That he gave +us as a finale. + + Farewell and adieu to you, gay Spanish Ladies. + Farewell and adieu to you, Ladies of Spain! + For we've received orders for to sail for old England. + But we hope in a short time to see you again. + + We'll rant and we'll roar like true British heroes, + We'll rant and we'll roar across the salt seas, + Until we strike soundings in the Channel of old England. + From Ushant to Scilly is thirty-five leagues.... + +How we did rant and roar the wonderful up-Channel verse, with its +clever use of the high-sounding promontories of the south! + + The first land we made, it was called the Deadman, + Next Ram Head off Plymouth, Start, Portland and Wight, + We passed up by Beachy, by Parley and Dungeness, + And hove our ship to off the South Foreland light.... + +Our glasses were empty. We drove out the cat, gutted some fish, +extinguished the lamp, and came upstairs to the tune, repeated, of +"Rolling Home." All the tunes are ringing in my head. + +[Sidenote: _ART THAT IS LIVED_] + +There is something about this singing of sea-songs by a seafarer which +makes them grip one extraordinarily. They are far from perfect in +execution, they are not always quite in tune, especially on Tony's high +notes, yet, I am certain, they are as artistic in the best sense as any +of the fine music I have heard. Tony sings with imagination: he sees, +_lives_ what he is singing. Between this sort of song and most, there +is much the same difference as between going abroad, and reading a book +of travels; or between singing folk-songs with the folk and twittering +bowdlerised versions in a drawing-room. However imperfect technically, +Tony's songs are an expression of the life he lives, rather than an +excursion into the realms of art--into the expression of other kinds of +life--with temporarily stimulated and projected imagination. His art is +perpetual creation, not repetition of a thing created once and for all. +The art that is _lived_, howsoever imperfect, has an advantage over +the most finished art that is merely repeated. Next after the music of, +as one might say, superhuman creative force--like Bach's and +Beethoven's--comes this kind, of Tony's. + +Cultured people talk about the artistic tastes of the poor, would have +them read--well, they don't quite know what--something 'good,' +something namely that appeals to the cultured. It has always been my +experience in much lending of books, that the poor will read the +literature of life's fundamental daily realities quickly enough, once +they know of its existence. What they will not read, what in the +struggle for existence they cannot waste time over, is the literature +of the _etceteras_ of life, the decorations, the vapourings. Sane +minds, like healthy bodies, crave strong meats, and the strong meats of +literature are usually the worst cooked. I am inclined to think that +the taste of the poor, the uneducated, is on the right lines, though +undeveloped, whilst the taste of the educated consists of beautifully +developed wrongness, an exquisite secession from reality. As Nietzsche +pointed out, degenerates love narcotics; something to make them forget +life, not face it. Their meats must be strange and peptonized. +Therefore they hate, they are afraid of, the greatest things in +life--the commonplace. Much culture has debilitated them. Rank life +would kill them--or save them. + + + + +VI + + + SALISBURY, + _October_. + + +1 + +It is just at dawn that the coming day declares itself most plainly; +not earlier, not later. This morning at peep o' day the wind was NNW., +the air delicate and peaceful. A band of dirty red water washed in +fantastic outline along the cliffs. The sea, with its calm great +rollers, bore upon it only the rags of last night's fury; as if it had +been less a part of the storm than a thing buffeted by the storm, and +now glad to sink into tranquillity. The air was scented with land +smells. Shafts of the dawn's sunlight beamed across it. Three punts put +off to find out if the lobster-pots had been washed away; the sea had +its little boats upon it again. But the sky, to the SW., was looking +very wild. The wind was SW. in the offing. + +While we were at breakfast a southerly squall burst open the kitchen +door. Mrs Widger got up to see what child it was. A screaming sea-gull +mocked her. + +The storm came. The trees by the railway bowed and tossed. Rain +spattered against the carriage windows. Dead leaves scurried by. I +wanted to get out, to go back. I wanted to know whether Tony was at +sea. Here, at Salisbury they are already talking about the 'great +storm'; some of the beautiful elms are down. What must the storm have +been at Seacombe! + +Curiously, I felt, the first time for years, as if I were leaving home +for boarding school--the warmth behind, the chill in front. I smelt +again the rank soft-soap in the great bare schoolrooms. + + +2 + +A postcard from Tony-- + + "quite please to get your letter this morning it as been rough ever + since you left Seacombe it was a gale the night you went Back the + sea was all in over and knocking the boats about the road. I haven + been out sea sinsce it is still rough hear now it is blowing a gale + of wind I expect we shall get some witing and herring in the bay + when the weather get fine the sea hear is like the cliff now red. + Us aven catched nort nobody cant go to sea. + + "TONY. + + "I will write a letter soon. + + "P.S. Tony just waked up. George is coming home, Tony mazed with + excitement and wishes you was here. + + "MAM W." + +So do I! + + +3 + +[Sidenote: _TONY OFF TO SEA_] + +The evening before I left Seacombe, Tony was telling us how upset and +miserable he was, how he cried, when his two elder brothers left home +to join the Navy. Also he told us what I knew nothing of before--his +own one attempt to go to sea aboard a merchantman. When he was at +Cloade's he looked on fishing as a refuge from groceries, and when he +had given up groceries for fishing, he looked on a ship's fo'c'stle as +a refuge from that. Fishing was very bad one summer. He and Dick Yeo +agreed to run away together: + +"Us was doin' nort noway wi' the fishing--nort 't all. Father, Granfer +that is, wer away to his drill wi' the Royal Naval Reserves. So Dick +Yeo an' me agreed to go off together. Where he went, I was to go tu, +an' where I went, he was to come. He had two pounds put away, in gold. +I only had half a crown, an' cuden't see me way to get no more nuther. +'Casn' thee ask thy maid for some?' Dick said. I was ashamed, like, but +I did. + +"'What's thee want it for?" her asked. + +"'Tisn' nothing doing down here,' I says, 'an' I wants to go to sea.' + +"'I an't got no money,' the maid says. + +"'Casn' thee get nort?' I asks, having begun, you see. I'd been goin' +with her for nigh on two years. + +"Her cried bitter at the thought o' me going, but her did get seven +shillin's from a fellow servant. I told me mother--her cried tu'--an' +off us started, going by train to Bristol and stopping the night at the +Sailor's Rest. 'Twasn't bad, you know. They Restis be gude things. +Dick, he woke in the morning wi' a swelled faace, but I didn' feel +nort. + +"Dick Yeo paid both our boat fares from Bristol to Cardiff. The +steward--what us urned against aboard ship--recommended us to a lodging +house in Adelaide Street, an' he giv'd me a note for a man at the Board +o' Trade, sayin' we was Demshire fishin' chaps an' gude seamen. + +"Well, us went to the lodging house an' gave in our bags an' took a +room wi' fude [food] for two an' six a day--each, mind yu. Then us +looked into a big underground room wer there was a lot o' foreigners +gathered round a fire an' us didn' much like the looks o' that. So us +went straight down to the docks an' tried to ship together on several +sailing ships an' steamers. Some on 'em would on'y take me, an' some +were down to sail at a future date, like, what our money wouldn't last +out tu. _I_ cude ha' got a ship, 'cause I had me Naval Reserve ticket, +but nobody cuden't du wi' both on us--an' where one went t'other was to +go tu, by agreement. + +[Sidenote: _AT THE BOARD O' TRADE_] + +"Us went back to the lodging house, into a sort o' kitchen in a cellar, +where there was a 'Merican wi' a long white beard cooking, an' men +drunk spewing, an' men lying about asleep like logs. The 'Merican, his +beard looking so red as hell in the firelight, wer stirring some kind +o' stew. Yu shade ha' see'd the faaces what the glow o' they coals +shined on! An' the fude.... An' the tables an' plates.... I've a-gone +short many a time in my day, but I'd never ha' touched muck like they +offered to gie us there. Dick an' me crept up the staircase to bed wi' +empty bellies thic night. + +"Soon a'ter we was to bed, Dick says to me: 'Can 'ee feel ort yer +Tony?' + +"'No,' I says, an' whatever 'twas, I didn' feel ort o'it. But I see'd +'em crawling so thick as sea-lice on the wall in a southerly gale, an' +I tell 'ee, 'twas they things what took the heart out o' me more'n ort +else, aye! more'n the food an' being away from home. Us cuden turn out, +'cause the landlord had our bags an' us hadn' got no money to get 'em +back wi', nor nowhere else at all to go tu. + +"Next morning, us went straight down to the docks again. Cuden' eat no +breakfast what they give'd us. Didn' know what to du. I only had +tuppence left, which wuden' ha' taken me home again, not if I'd been +willing to give up and go. Come to the last, us was forced to break our +agreement. I signed on as able seaman--_able_ seaman 'cause I was a +fishing chap an' had me Royal Naval Reserve ticket--aboard the +_Brooklands_, bound for Bombay. Penny o' me tuppence, I spent writing +home to tell mother. I cuden' stay aboard the ship (an' get summut to +eat) 'cause I had my gear to get an' a ship to find for Dick--an' we +still had hopes, like, o' getting a ship together. Howsbe-ever, us +cuden't, nohow. The writer aboard the _Brooklands_ wuden't advance +me no wages to get any gear. He told me the landlord to the lodging +house wude, him what had our bags a'ready. + +"Then I thought o' the steward's note to the Board o' Trade officer, +an' us inquired our way to the Board o' Trade, where ther was a gert +crowd outside. 'Twas by that us know'd the place. A man told us as the +officer what the note was directed tu, wude appear outside the door an' +call. Sure 'nuff, he did--wi' gold buttons on his coat--an' called out: +'Six A.B.'s for the _Asia_'! + +"'Who be that?' I asked. + +"'That's he,' the man said. 'He'll come out again by'm-bye.' + +"Us worked our way to the front--getting cussed horrible for our +pains--an' when Mr Gold-Buttons 'peared again, I give'd him the +steward's note. He luked at it--an' us. He cude offer me something an' +said as he'd du his best for me, but he cuden' hold out no promise for +Dick because, see, he hadn' got no Naval Reserve ticket. + +[Sidenote: "_WER DICK GOES, I GOES_"] + +"'Wher Dick goes, I goes,' I says, like that. With which the Board o' +Trade officer leaves us waiting there. + +"After an hour or so, he com'd out an' called, as if he hadn' ha' +know'd us: 'Anthony Widger an' Richard Yeo! Richard Yeo an' Anthony +Widger o' Seacombe!' + +"'Yer we be, sir,' shouts I, thinking we was fixed up. + +"'Be yu Anthony Widger an' Richard Yeo? Come in.' + +"Dick, he went in behind the officer, an' me behind Dick. 'Twer a +darkish passage, but as the door closed I luked, an' there, hidden +behind the door, sort o' flattened against the wall, who did I see but +Dick's mother; her'd come all that way by herself. I called to Dick. + +"'What the bloody hell be doin' here?' said Dick swearing awful. + +"'Don't thee swear at thy mother, Dick,' I says. + +"'Dick!' her says, 'Dick, come home again. Your father's breakin' his +heart.' + +"'Go to b----ry!' says Dick, swearing worse'n ever, 'cause _he_ was +wanting in his heart to be home again, yu see. + +"I burst out crying, then and there, wi' seeing Dick's mother cry, an' +all o'it what we'd been drough. The Board o' Trade officer repeated as +he'd help me an' no doubt find me a ship, but Dick--his mother was +come'd for he. + +"'Wer Dick goes, I goes,' says I. + +"Then Dick's mother, her says: 'Will 'ee come home then, Tony?' + +"'Wer Dick goes, I goes,' I says again. 'Twas fixed in me head, like. + +"'Well,' her says, 'if Dick comes home, will yu come too?' + +"I told her: 'I've a-signed on aboard the _Brooklands_, an' I'll hae to +tramp it 'cause I an't got no money.' + +"'Well, if I pays _your_ fare too?' + +"'Wer Dick goes, I'll go!' I says. + +"So her got over Dick a bit, an' the Board o' Trade man told us to come +again, saying as he'd do anything for me, but Dick's mother was come'd +for he. An' Mrs Yeo asked us to go wi' her to a restaurant.... That +turned me more'n ort else 'cause us hadn' eaten the stuff to the +lodging house an' us _was_ hungry. An' her telegraphed home to Dick's +father for a trap to meet us to Totnes, for 'twas a Saturday an' there +wern't no trains no nearer home. + +"Us went to the station, Dick swearing awful, an' in the end us come'd +to Totnes to find the trap. + +"The trap was there at the inn, sure 'nuff, an' the ostler was waiting +up, but the man what come'd wi' the trap was disappeared. We on'y found +'en at two in the morning, sleeping dead drunk in the manger, an' then +he an' the ostler began fighting on account o' the ostler casting out a +slur 'cause Dick's mother didn' gie him no more than a shilling. A +policeman come an' cleared us out o' it! + +[Sidenote: _CARRIAGE PEOPLE_] + +"Two or dree mile out o' Totnes the horse stops dead an' begins to go +back'ards. Us coaxed 'en, like, an' still he kept on stopping an' +walking back'ards. Dick an' me got out to walk to the halfway inn. +There the landlord wuden' come down for us. But he did when the trap +come'd up--us was carriage people than, yu see. We had drinks round, +an' us give'd flour an' water to the horse to make 'en go. But us hadn' +gone far when he stopped an' began to go back'ards again. Dick, he +started swearing. 'Let's walk on,' I says, to get 'en out o'it; an' so +us did for a mile or so. 'Twas dark, wi' a mizzling rain--an' +quiet--an' the trees like shadows. A proper logie night 'twas. Wude 'ee +believe me when I says I cude smell the flowers I cuden' see? Us was +glad when a tramp caught up wi' us. + +"'Have 'ee see'd ort o' a horse an' trap wi' two persons in 'en?' I +askis. + +"'Two mile back,' he says. + +"'Us lef 'en only a mile back,' Dick says. + +"'He've a-gone a mile back'ards then!' says I. + +"And with the same, Dick laughs out loud, an' I laughs, an' the tramp, +he laughs.... 'Twas the first laugh us had since us left Seacombe, an' +I reckon it did us gude. Us went on better a'ter that. I covered the +tramp up wi' hay in a hay loft, advising of him not to smoke. I could +ha' slept tu; I wer heavy for a gude bed; but I saw lights in the +farmhouse winder, an' us wer so near home again. + +"Well, we crept into Seacombe by the back (people was jest astir, +Sunday morning) going each our way from the churchyard, an' I listened +outside mother's door. Father was home again, an' they was to +breakfast. Her'd had my letter telling them as I'd a-shipped for +Bombay. + +"'They'll Bumbay the beggar!' father was saying, only 'twasn't 'beggar' +as he did say. + +"Then my sister Mary, cried out: 'Here's Tony!' + +"'I know'd _he'd_ never go to Bumbay!' outs father so quick as ever. + +"But they was so pleased as Punch to see Tony back, cas I ude see, if +they'd ha' cared to say so. I don' know 'xactly why I went off to +sea--summut inside driving of me--'twasn't only 'cause there wern't +nothing doin'--but I an't never been no more. An' thic Mam Widger +there'd hae summut to say about it now. Eh, Annie?" + + +4 + +[Sidenote: _THE SEA'S STAMP_] + +It is an Englishman's privilege to grumble, and a sailorman's duty; yet +one thing always strikes me in talking to seafaring men, namely how +indelible the sea's stamp is; how indissolubly they are bound to the +sea--with sunken bonds like those which unite an old married +couple,--and also what outbursts of savage hatred they have against it. +Tony says that if he could earn fifteen shillings a week regularly on +land, he would give up the sea altogether. I very much doubt it. The +sea has him fast. He says further that nobody would go to sea unless he +were caught young and foolish, and that few would stay there if they +could get away. There are, among the older fishermen of Seacombe, some +who have worked well, and could still work, but prefer to stay ashore +and starve. Tony holds them excused. "Aye!" he says, "they've a-worked +hard in their day, an' they knows they ain't no for'arder. An' now +they'm weary o' it all, an' don't care; an' that's how I'll be some +day, if I lives--weary o'it, an' just where I was!" + +But the sea has her followers, and will continue to have them, because +seafaring is the occupation in which health, strength and courage have +their greatest value; in which being a man most nearly suffices a man. +It is remarkable that Baudelaire, decadent Frenchman, apostle of the +artificial, who was violently home-sick when he went on a voyage, +should have expressed the relation of man and the sea--their enmity and +love--more subtly than any English poet. + + Homme libre, toujours tu cheriras la mer; + La mer et ton miroir; tu contemples ton ame + Dans le deroulement infini de sa lame, + Et ton esprit n'est pas un gouffre moins amer. + + Tu te plais a plonger au sein de ton image; + Tu l'embrasses des yeux et des bras, et ton coeur + Se distrait quelquefois de sa propre rumeur + Au bruit de cette plainte indomptable et sauvage. + + Vous etes tous les deux tenebreux et discrets: + Homme, nul n'a sonde le fond de tes abimes, + O mer, nul ne connait tes richesses intimes, + Tant vous etes jaloux de garder vos secrets! + + Et cependant voila des siecles innombrables + Que vous vous combattez sans pitie ni remord, + Tellement vous aimez le carnage et la mort, + O lutteurs eternels, o freres implacables! + +[Sidenote: _SEA-LARGENESS_] + +The sea is never mean. Strife and brotherhood with it give a largeness +to men which, like all deep qualities of the spirit, can be neither +specified nor defined; only felt, and seen in the outcome. The +Seacombe fishermen are more or less amphibious; ocean-going seamen +look down on them. They are petty in some small things, notably in +jealousy lest one man do more work, or make more money, than another: +to say a man is doing well is to throw out a slur against him. +Nevertheless in the larger, the essential things of life, their +sea-largeness nearly always shows itself. They are wonderfully +charitable, not merely with money. They carp at one another, but let a +man make a mess of things, and he is gently treated. I have never +heard Tony admit that any man--even one who had robbed him--had not +his very good points. Is a man a ne'er-do-well, a drunkard, an idler? +"Ah," they say, "his father rose he up like a gen'leman, an' that's +what comes o'it." In their dealings, they curiously combine generosity +and close-fistedness--close-fistedness in earning, and generosity in +spending and lending. A beachcomber, for simply laying a hand to a +rope, receives a pint of beer, or the price of it, and next moment the +fisherman who paid the money may be seen getting wet through and +spoiling his clothes in order to drag a farthing's worth of jetsam +from the surf. Tony fails to understand how a gen'leman can possibly +haggle over the hire of a boat. When he goes away himself, he pays +what is asked; regrets it afterwards, if at all; and comes home when +his money is done. "If a gen'leman," he says, "can't afford to pay the +rate, what du 'ee come on the beach to hire a boat for--an' try to +beat a fellow down? I reckon 'tis only a _sort o' gen'leman_ as does +that!" + +Like most seafarers, the fishermen are fatalistic. "What's goin' to be, +will be, an' that's the way o'it." But they are not thoroughgoing +fatalists, inasmuch as disappointment quickly turns to resentment +against something handy to blame. If, for example, we catch no fish, +Tony will blame the tide, the hour, the weather, the boat, the sail, +the leads, the line, the hooks, the bait, the fish, his mate--anything +rather than accept the one fact that, for reasons unknown, the fish are +off the bite. A thoroughgoing fatalist would blame, if he did not +acquiesce in, fate itself or his luck. + +Tony is a black pessimist as regards the present and to-morrow; +convinced that things are not, and cannot be, what they were; but as +regards the further future, the day after to-morrow, he is a resolute +optimist. "Never mind how bad things du look, summut or other'll sure +to turn up. It always du. I've a-proved it. I've a-see'd it scores o' +times." He can earn money by drifting for mackerel and herring, hooking +mackerel, seining for mackerel, sprats, flat-fish, mullet and bass, +bottom-line fishing for whiting, conger or pout, lobster and crab +potting, and prawning; by belonging to the Royal Naval Reserve; by +boat-hiring; by carpet-beating and cleaning up. I have even seen him +dragging a wheel chair. His boats and gear represent, I suppose, a +capital of near a hundred pounds. It would be hard if he earned +nothing. Yet he is certain that his earnings, year in and year out, +scarcely average fifteen shillings a week. "Yu wears yourself out wi' +it an' never gets much for'arder." The money, moreover, comes in +seasons and lump-sums; ten pounds for a catch perhaps, then nothing for +weeks. Mrs Widger must be, and is, a good hand at household management +and at putting money by. I doubt if Tony ever knows how much, or how +little, gold she has, stored away upstairs. Probably it is as well. He +is a generous man with money. He 'slats it about' when he has it. + +[Sidenote: _OPEN BOATS_] + +It has to be realised that these fishermen exercise very great skill +and alertness. To sail a small open boat in all weathers requires a +quicker hand and judgment than to navigate a seagoing ship. Seacombe +possesses no harbour, and therefore Seacombe men can use no really +seaworthy craft. "'Tis all very well," Tony says, "for people to buzz +about the North Sea men an' knit 'em all sorts o' woollen gear. They +North Sea men an' the Cornishmen wi' their big, decked harbour boats, +they _have_ got summut under their feet--somewhere they can get in +under, out the way o'it. They _can_ make themselves comfor'able, an +ride out a storm. But if it comes on to blow when we'm to sea in our +little open craft, we got to hard up an' get home along--if us can. +For the likes o' us, 'tis touch an' go wi' the sea!" + +Tony knows. At places like Seacombe every boat, returning from sea, +must run ashore and be hauled up the beach and even, in rough weather, +over the sea-wall. The herring and mackerel drifters, which may venture +twenty miles into the open sea, cannot be more than twenty-five feet in +length else they would prove unwieldy ashore. To avoid their heeling +over and filling in the surf, they must be built shallow, with next to +no keel. They have therefore but small hold on the water; they do not +sail close to the wind, and beating home against it is a long wearisome +job. Again, because the gear for night work in small craft must be as +simple as possible, such boats usually carry only a mizzen and a +dipping lug--the latter a large, very picturesque, but unhandy, sail +which has to be lowered or 'dipped' every time the boat tacks. Neither +comfort nor safety is provided by the three feet or so of decking, the +'cuddy' or 'cutty,' in the bows. To sleep there with one's head +underneath, is to have one's feet outside, and _vice versa_. In +rough broken seas the open beach drifter must be handled skilfully +indeed, if she is not to fill and sink. + +I have watched one of them running home in a storm. The wind was +blowing a gale; the sea running high and broken. One error in steering, +one grip of the great white sea-horses, meant inevitable wreck. Every +moment or two the coastguard, who was near me with a telescope to his +eye, exclaimed, "She's down!" But no. She dodged the combers like a +hare before greyhounds, now steering east, now west, on the whole +towards home. It was with half her rudder gone that she ran ashore +after a splendid exhibition of skill and nerve, many times more +exciting than the manoeuvres of a yacht race. Were there not many +such feats of seamanship among fishermen, there would be more widows +and orphans. + +[Sidenote: _BOATS SHEERING_] + +Those are the craft, those the sort of men--two usually to a boat--that +put to sea an hour or two before sunset, ride at the nets through the +night, and return towards or after dawn. Anything but a moderate breeze +renders drifting impossible. In a calm, the two men are bound to row, +for hours perhaps, with heavy 16-20 ft. sweeps. Moreover, if the sea +makes, or a ground swell rises, the least mistake in beaching a boat +will cause it to sheer round, capsize, and wash about in the breakers +with the crew most probably beneath it. Yarns are told of arms and legs +appearing, of a horrible tortured face appearing, while the upturned +boat washed about in the undertow, and those ashore were powerless to +help. There is nothing the fishermen dread so much. One of them owns to +leaving the beach when he has seen a boat running in on a very rough +sea, so that he might not endure witnessing what he could not +prevent.--He peeped however. + +These risks need considering, not in order to exaggerate the dangers of +drifting in open beach boats--in point of fact, accidents seldom do +happen,--but to show what skill is habitually exercised, what a touch +and go with the sea it is. + +Sundown is the time for shooting nets. Eight to fourteen are carried +for mackerel, six to ten for herrings--the scantier the fish, the +greater the number of nets. At Seacombe they are commonly forty fathoms +in length along the headrope which connects them all, and five fathoms +deep. Stretching far away from the boat, as it drifts up and down +Channel with the tides, is a line, perhaps a thousand yards long, of +cork buoys. From these hang the lanyards[16] which support the headrope, +from the headrope hang perpendicularly the nets themselves. Judgment is +needed in shooting a fleet of nets. They may get foul of the bottom or +of another boat's fleet. When, on account of careless shooting or +tricks of the tide, the nets of several boats become entangled, there +is great confusion, and the cursing is loud. + + [16] For herrings the lanyards may be of such a length that the + foot of the net almost touches the sea-bottom. For mackerel, + which is a surface and midwater fish, they are much shorter, so + that the headrope lies just below the top of the water. + +Nets shot, the fishermen make fast the road for'ard; sup, smoke, sing, +creep under the cutty, and sleep with one eye open. + +Sometimes they are too wet to sleep; often in the winter it is too +cold. + +Afterwards, the laborious hauling in--one man at the headrope and the +other at the foot. Contrary to a very general impression, the fish are +not enclosed within the net, as in seining or in pictures of the +miraculous draught of fishes. They prod their snouts into the meshes, +and are caught by the gills. There may not be a score in a whole fleet +of nets, or they may come up like a glittering mat, beyond the strength +of two men to lift over the gunwale. Twenty-five thousand herring is +about the burthen of an open beach drifter. Are there more, nets must +be given away at sea, or buoyed up and left--or cut, broken, lost. +Small catches are picked out of the nets as they are hauled in, large +catches ashore. + +[Sidenote: _FISHERMEN FLEECED_] + +It is ashore that the fisherman comes off worst of all. Neither +educated nor commercialized, he is fleeced by the buyers. And if he +himself dispatches his haul to London.... Dick Yeo once went up to +Billingsgate and saw his own fish sold for about ten pounds. On his +return to Seacombe, he received three pounds odd, and a letter from the +salesman to say that there had been a sudden glut in the market. +Fishermen boat-owners have an independence of character which makes it +difficult for them to combine together effectively, as wage-servers do. +They act too faithfully on the adage that a bird in the hand is worth +two in the bush, and ten shillings on the beach a sovereign at +Billingsgate. So 'tis, when + + There's little to earn and many to keep, + +and no floating capital at a man's disposal. + +In recent years, owing to bad prices and seasons and general lack of +encouragement, or even of fair opportunity, the number of sea-going +drifters at Seacombe has decreased by two-thirds. Much the same has +happened at other small fishing places along the coast. This +decline--so complacently acquiesced in by the powers that be--is of +national importance; for the little fisheries are the breeding ground +of the Navy. Nowadays fishermen put their sons to work on land. +"'Tain't wuth it," they say, "haulin' yer guts out night an' day, an' +gettin' no forrarder at the end o'it." Luckily for England the sea's +grip is a firm one, and many of the sons return to it. + +When one hears Luscombe talk about the maddening trouble he has had in +teaching plough-tail or urban recruits to knot and splice a rope, or +watches, as I have, a couple of blue-jackets drive ashore in a small +boat because they couldn't hoist sail, then one comprehends better the +importance of the fisher-families whose work is made up of endurance, +exposure, nerve and skill; who play touch and go with the sea; and who +in the slack seasons have--unlike the ordinary workman--only too much +time to think for themselves. They are the backbone of the Navy. + + + + +VII + + + SEACOMBE, + _November_. + + +1 + +Whilst the train was drawing up at the platform, I noticed the people +moving and looking downwards as if dogs were running wild amongst them. +Then I saw two whitish heads bobbing about in the crowd. It was Jimmy +and another boy come to meet me. + +We gave the luggage to the busman, and walked on down. + +"Tommy's gone tu Plymouth." + +"What for?" + +"They'm going to cut his eyes out an' gie 'en spectacles." + +"When did he go?" + +A rather sulky silence.... + +Then: "Us thought 'ee was going to ride down. Dad said as yu'd be sure +tu." + +"'Tisn't far to walk, Jimmy...." + +"Us be tired." + +Alack! I had done the wrong thing. Their little festivity, that was to +have made them the envy of 'all they boys tu beach,' had fallen flat. +They had expected to ride down 'like li'l gentry-boys.' However, we +bought oranges, and then I was taken to see yesterday's fire, and was +told how Tony had rushed into the blazing house to rescue a carpet 'an' +didn' get nort for it.' + +Tony himself came downstairs from putting away an hour in bed. "I'd ha' +come up to meet 'ee," he said sleepily, "if anybody'd a reminded me +o'it. Us an't done nort to the fishing since you went away." + +"An' yu an't chopped up to-morrow morning's wude nuther!" added Mrs +Widger. + +Grannie Pinn came in at tea-time. We invited her to sit down and have a +cup. "Do 'ee think I an't got nothing to eat at home?" she asked. +"Well, I have, then!--Ay," she continued, bobbing her head +sententiously, "yu got a mark in Seacombe, else yu wuden't be down yer +again so sune. That's what 'tis--a mark! I knows, sure nuff. Come on! +who be it now? What's her like, eh?" + +She cannot understand how any young unmarried man can be without his +sweetheart. Everybody according to her, must have a mark, or be in +search of one. I told her with the brutality which delights her factual +old mind, that if she herself had been a little less antique and +poverty-stricken.... + +"There! if I don't come round and box yer yers. Yu'm al'ays ready wi' +yer chake." + +[Sidenote: _A MARK_] + +Then I offered her five _per cent._ of the lady's fortune, if she +would find me a mark with unsettled money. Though she laughed it off, +she was not a little scandalized by my levity. The Tough Old Stick has +not outlived her memory of romance. Indeed, I think she holds to it all +the tighter for her hardheadedness in every-day affairs. + +Midway through tea, Straighty crept into the kitchen. "What do _yu_ +want?" shouted Grannie Pinn. "Bain't there enough kids yer now?" +Straighty stood in the centre of the kitchen, sucking three fingers +and looking shyly at me from beneath her tousled tow-coloured hair. + +"You've not forgotten me, Straighty?" I asked. "You're not frightened +of me, are you?" + +"Go an' speak to 'en proper," commanded Grannie Pinn. "Wer's yer +manners, Dora?" + +"_Yu_ didn' speak to me proper, Grannie Pinn! Wer's yours?" + +"Aw, my dear soul! Now du 'ee shut up wi' yer chake!" + +Straighty remained sucking her fingers in the middle of the kitchen. +She seemed about to cry. Quite suddenly, her eyes brightened. She +glided over to me, put her wet fingers round my neck ("Dora!" from Mrs +Widger), and gave me a big kiss on the chin. Then she told me all about +everything, sitting with her head on my shoulder in the old courting +chair. + +A tiny little episode, I grant; but very sweet. + +"That's your mark?" Grannie Pinn shouted. "You'll hae tu wait for she!" + +Straighty is established as my mark, and takes her duties, as she has +learnt to conceive them, with amusing seriousness. She will not let me +go out through the Square without being told where I am off to, nor let +me return in house until I tell her where I have been. At the beginning +of every meal we hear her creeping up the passage; see her yellow hair +against the door-post. By the end of the meal she has summoned up +courage to claim a kiss. "Now be off tu your mother!" says Mrs Widger. + + +2 + +Mrs Widger has let the back bedroom to a young married couple possessed +of a saucer-eyed baby that cries lustily whenever its mother is out of +its sight. How they succeed in living, sleeping, baby-tending and doing +their minor cookery in the one pokey little room, already half filled +by the bedstead, is difficult to understand. They do it. We see little +of them, except just when we had rather see nothing at all. + +For dinner and the subsequent cup o' tay, Mam Widger allows one hour. +But usually, before even the pudding is out of the oven, first one of +us, then another, glances round to make sure that the kettle is well on +the fire. + +[Sidenote: _MRS PERKINS_] + +Nowadays, however, when the kettle is beginning to sing, Mrs Perkins, +the baby in her arms, comes downstairs and proceeds to cook for her +husband a couple of small chops or a mess of meat-shreds and bubble and +squeak. She stirs and chatters; she holds forth on the baby's beauty +and goodness, its health, its father's love of it--and, in short, she +talks to us as if we were delighted to see her and her baby. Tony's +good manners triumph comically over his desire to get his cup o' tay +and put away an hour up over. (He likes to take every chance of making +up for wakeful nights at sea.) We all wish she would go quickly. +Meanwhile, we feign an interest in what blousy, skirt-gaping, +slop-slippered, enthusiastic maternity has to say. + +And when she does go, it is with a most joyful haste that we move the +kettle to the very hottest part of the fire. + + +3 + +The family hubbub over Tommy's stay in the Plymouth Eye Infirmary has +hardly died down yet. Recognizing with uncommon good sense that his +double squint would bar him from the Navy or Army (he shows an +inclination towards the latter), Mrs Widger took him to Plymouth; and +on hearing that an operation would cure him, she did not hesitate, did +not bring him home to think about it; she left him there. Then.... What +a buzz! The child is to return very thin. Mrs Widger's cousin declares +loudly that she would rather lead her boy about blind (he squints +excessively) than let him go to one o' they places. Tony says, "Aye! +they may feed 'en on food of a better quality like, after the rate, but +he won't get done like he is at home." Several times daily he wants to +know how long they will keep Tommy there, and when Mrs Widger replies, +six weeks, he asks in a woe-begone voice: "Do 'ee think 'er'll know his +dad when 'er comes home again?" + +All of which is easy to laugh at. + +No doubt hospitals are a godsend to the poor, immediately if not +ultimately. At the same time, it cannot be said that the prejudice +against them is wholly unreasonable. Poor people declare that they are +starved in hospital, and it is, in fact, now recognized in dietetics +that comparatively innutritious food, eaten with gusto, is better +assimilated than the most scientifically chosen but unpalatable +nutriment. A man, a poor man especially, can be half starved or at all +events much thinned, on good food, who would do well on the habitual +coarse fare that he enjoys. His life is a long adventure in a land +where every other turning leads to starvation, but his adventurousness +seldom extends to new sorts of food. + +[Sidenote: _HOSPITALS_] + +No one is so depressed by strange surroundings as the average poor man +or woman. (Children get on much better.) Very likely he has never been +alone, has never slept away from some relative or friend, the whole of +his life. The unfamiliarity and precise routine of hospitals, the faces +and ways all strange, are capable not only of greatly intensifying a +man's sufferings, but even of retarding his recovery. + +Hospitals must necessarily be governed by two main conditions:--(1) The +need of doing the greatest good to the greatest number; (2) The +advancement of medical science and experience. Under (1) the +overpressure on medical skill and time is bound to diminish tact and +sympathy. Under (2) the serious or interesting cases are apt--as +everyone who has mixed with hospital staffs knows very well--to receive +attention not disproportionate to the nature of the malady, but +disproportionate to the bodily, and particularly to the mental, +suffering. The poor man can appreciate sympathy better than skill. He +may not know how ill he is, but he knows how much he suffers. He is +quick to detect and to resent preferential treatment. From the point of +view of the independent poor, hospitals are far from what they might +be. They are last straws for drowning men, useful sometimes, but best +avoided.[17] + + [17] I trust I make it plain that these statements imply no + general disparagement of hospitals. Whether or no they do the + best possible under the circumstances is not to be discussed + shortly or by the present writer. Since penning the above, it has + fallen to me to take a patient to the out-department of one of + the great London hospitals. We had some time to wait, with very + many others, on long wooden benches. I cannot express the almost + unbearable depression, the sense of ebbing vitality, the feeling + of being jammed in a machine, which took possession of me, who + was quite well. And I wish I could adequately express my + admiration of the visiting surgeon's manipulation of his delicate + instruments and his management of the patient. + +[Sidenote: _JACKS THE RIPPER_] + +Jacks is a very energetic young country surgeon. He is keen on his work +and will procure admission to the hospital for any operative case. But +he finds it by no means easy to get his patients there; for he is so +keen on his work that he treats their feelings carelessly; hustles them +through an operation; pooh-poohs their fear of anaesthetics and the +knife. Jacks is well disliked by the poor. He has to live, and +therefore he has to cultivate a professional manner and to dance +attendance on wealthy hypochrondriacal patients whom otherwise he would +probably send to the devil. The poor people have told him to his face +that he runs after the rich and cuts about the poor; and they have +nicknamed him _Jacks the Ripper_. + +Tony would have to be very far gone before he would willingly go into a +hospital. Just now, between the mackerel and herring seasons, he is fat +and sleepy, very sleek for him. Rheumatic fever in boyhood and +neglected colds have left him rather deaf, and subject to noises in the +head and miscellaneous bodily pains. He is 'a worriter' by nature. +"When I gets bothered," he says, "I often feels as if summut be busted +in me head." As the herring season comes round, so will Tony 'hae the +complaints again,' and few will pity a man who always looks so well. A +few years back, Mrs Widger procured for his deafness some quack +treatment--which did do him good;--but he himself had little faith in +it, and did not persevere. Like the mothers who rejoice in delicate +children rather than feed them properly and send them early to bed, +Tony prefers to think his ailments constitutional, a possession of his, +a curse of fate, which flatters him, so to speak, by singling him out +for its attentions. In a couple of years' time, when he comes out of +the Royal Naval Reserve, he will have the option of accepting L50 down +at once, or of waiting till he is sixty for a pension of four shillings +a week. Mrs Widger understands perfectly that unless he wants to buy +boats and gear--unless, in other words, he can make the L50 +productive--he had much better wait for the pension and be sure of a +roof over his head when he is past work. Tony, however, will probably +take the lump sum. He fears he may die and get nothing at all. He does +not _feel_ that he will never see sixty, but he is of opinion that +he will not, and sixty to a man of his temperament is such a long way +hence. He thinks as little as possible of old age. "Aye!" he +says--almost chants, so moved is he,--"the likes o' us slaves an' +slaves all our life, an' us never gets no for'arder. Like as us be when +we'm young, so us'll be at the end o'it all. Come the time when yu'm +past work, an' yu be done an' wearied out, then all yer slavin's gone +for nort. Tis true what I says. I dunno what to think--but 'tis the way +o'it. 'Tain't right like. 'Tain't right!" + + +4 + +"Go shrimping wi' the setting-nets t'night, I reckon," said Uncle Jake. +"Tide be low 'tween twelve and one o'clock. Jest vitty, that." + +It was one of those evenings, wind WSW., when the sea and sky look +stormier than they are, or will be. Uncle Jake stood on the very edge +of the sea wall, his hands in his pockets, his torn jumper askew, and +his old cap cocked over one ear. From time to time he turned half round +to deride a dressy visitor, or for warmth's sake twisted his body about +within his clothing, or shrugged his shoulders humorously with a, "'Tis +a turn-out o'it!" The seine net had just been shot from the beach for +less than a sovereign's worth of fish--to be divided, one third for the +owner of the net and the remainder among the seven men who had lent a +hand. + +[Sidenote: _PRAWNING_] + +"Coo'h!" Uncle Jake exclaimed. "_'Tis_ a crib here! Nort 't all doing. +Not like 't used tu be. I mind when yu cude haul in a seine so full +as.... Might pick up a shilling or tu t'night shrimping, if they damn +visitors an' bloody tradesmen an't been an' turned the whole o' Broken +Rocks up an' down. _I_ tells 'em o'it!" + +"Shrimps or prawns, d'you mean?" + +"Why, prawns! Us calls it shrimping hereabout. You knows that. There's +prawns there if yu knows where to look, but not like 't used to be. +On'y they fules don' know where to look. An' they don' see Jake at it, +an' I never tells 'em what I gets nor what I sells at; an' so they says +I don' never du nort. I'd like to see they hae tu work waist-deep in +water every night for a week when they'm sixty-five. An' in the winter +tu!--If yu'm minded to come t'night, yu be up my house 'bout 'leven +o'clock, an' I'll fetch me nets from under cliff if they b----y b----rs +o' boys an't been there disturbin' of 'em." + +Uncle Jake's cottage looks outside like a small cellar that has somehow +risen above the ground and then has been thatched with old straw and +whitewashed. Inside, it is a shadowy place, stacked up high with +sailing and fishing gear, flotsam, jetsam, balks of wood and all the +odds and ends that he picks up on his prowlings along the coast. With +tattered paper screens, he has partitioned off, near the fire and +window, a small and very crowded cosy-corner. There he was sitting when +I arrived; bread, butter, onions, sugar and tea--his staple foods--on +the round table beside him, and his prawn-nets on the flagstones at his +feet. Three cats glided about among the legs of the table and chairs, +on the lookout to steal. Using the gentle violence that cats love from +those they trust, Uncle Jake flung them one by one to the other side of +the room. They returned, purring, to snatch at the none too fresh berry +[eggs] of spider-crab with which the nets were being baited. + +The shallow small-meshed setting-nets are about two feet in diameter at +the top. Stretched taut from side to side of the rim are two doubled +strings or _thirts_--which cross at right angles directly above the +centre of the net, and into which, near the middle, the four pieces of +bait are ingeniously and simply fixed by little sliders on the thirts +themselves. The whole apparatus hangs level from a yard or more of +stout line, at the upper end of which is a small stick, a stumpy +fishing rod, so to speak, often painted white so that it may be easily +found as it lies on the dark rocks. Uncle Jake's net-sticks, however, +are anything but white. Capable almost of finding them with his eyes +shut, he would sooner lose his nets altogether than let whitened sticks +point out to other people the pools which he alone knows. + +We put the nets into a couple of sacks and shouldered them. A long +light pole was placed into my hand. "Don't yu never leave your pole +behind. Yu'll want it, sure 'nuff, afore this night's over." + +So we set out. One by one the cats who were following, left us to go +back home. We did not walk towards the sea. On the contrary we went +inland, through some roads with demure sleeping villas on either side. +"If they bloody poachers," Uncle Jake explained, "see'd us going +straight towards the sea, they'd follow. _I_ knows 'em! They takes away +the livelihood o' the likes o' us an' sells it. Sells it--an' says 'tis +sport! I leads 'em a dance sometimes. I goes along a narrow ledge +that's jest under water, wi' ten or twelve feet depth on either side. +On they comes a'ter me. 'Uncle Jake knows where to go,' they says. And +in _they_ goes--not knowing the place like I du--head over heels an' a +swim for it! O Lor'! they don' like it when I tells 'em they better go +home an' tumble into dry clothes. Yu shude hear the language they spits +out o' their mouths 'long wi' the salt water. Horrible, tu be sure!" + +[Sidenote: _SETTING-NETS_] + +Broken Rocks, a playground for children by day, look wild and strange +on a night when clouds are driving across the moon, when the cliffs +fade into darkness high above the beach, and everything not black is +grey, except where the white surf beats upon the outermost ledge. Then +Broken Rocks have personality. A sinister spirit rises out of them with +the heave of the sea. It is as if some black mood, some great monotony +of strife, were closing in around one. On the sea wall, in the +sunshine, I used to wonder why Uncle Jake calls Broken Rocks a terr'ble +place. Now I do not. He works there by night. + +We peered out from the beach underneath the cliffs. Nobody had +forestalled us. Uncle Jake was pleased. He laughed hoarsely, and the +echo of it was not unlike the natural noises of the place. "Us'll make +a start there," he said, pointing to a ledge between which and +ourselves was a wide sheet of water. "Yu follow me an' feel for a +foothold wi' your pole. _Don't_ yu step afore yu've felt." + +Into the water he went; seemed, indeed, to run across it. "Be 'ee wet?" +he asked when I stepped out the other side. + +"Half way up my thighs!" + +"Yu hadn't no need to get wet so far up as your knees. I didn't. An' yu +might ha' gone in there over your head. Yu use your pole, skipper. Feel +afore yu steps. I'll set 'ee your two nets for a beginning." + +With his pole he felt the depth of the water around the ledge. Then he +dropped the nets down, edging them carefully under the overhanging +weed, and placed the sticks on the rock above. "Don't yu forget where +yu sets your nets. Yu won't _see_'em. An' when yu hauls up, go gently, +like so, else off goes all they master prawns, d'rec'ly they feels a +jerk.... Leave 'em down a couple o' minutes.... But there, yu knows, +don' 'ee? Us won't catch much till the tide turns. They prawns knows +when 'tis beginning to flow so well as yu an' me. Yu work this yer, an' +along easterly. I be going farther out." + +[Sidenote: _PRAWNS_] + +When I hauled up my first net I heard the faint clicketty noise--like +paper scratching metal--of three or four prawns jumping about inside. +My hand had to chase them many times round the net. One jumped over; +one fell through. Nothing is more difficult to withdraw from a net than +prawns, except it be a lobster, flipping itself about, hardly visible, +and striking continually with its nippers. There was a lobster in the +second net. It had to go into the same pocket as the prawns. It was +something of an adventure afterwards to put a hand into the pocketful +of lobster claws and prawn spines. + +Working eastward and outward, plunging in to the water or sliding with +bumps and bruises off a rock, I must have passed Deadman's Rock, Danger +Gutter, Broken Rock and the Wreckstone. (Things of the sea nearly +always take name from their evil aspects.) Uncle Jake could have told +me at any moment exactly where I was. + +At last, near the surf, I saw in front of me a flat table-rock, +standing up alone, and as I descended towards the foot of it, a high +black rocky archway became plain. Broad-leaved oarweed covered it like +giant hair, and hung drooping into the deep black pool beneath. The +moonlight glinted on the oarweed. The pool, though darkly calm, ebbed +and flowed silently with the waves outside. I recognized the place. It +was Hospital Rock--the rock the little boats strike on because it is +smooth on top and the waves do not break over it very much. I half +expected the ugly head of a great conger to look out at me from the +pool. As I lay flat on the rock to drop my nets, the rattle and roar of +the sea beyond, vibrating through the solid stone, the whistle of the +wind through the downhanging oarweed, sounded like an orchestra of the +mad damn'd. + +I caught nothing there, and was not sorry. The place was too eerie to +stay in long. "Ah!" said Uncle Jake when we met again on the inner +reef, "I've knowed they amateurs run straight off home when they've +a-found theirselves under Hospital. A terr'ble place! Yu knows now. Did +'ee set your nets there? Eh?" + +He took some fresh bait from his prawn bag and fixed it in the thirts +of my nets. "'Tis nearly over," he said, "but jest yu try that, an' if +they'm there that'll hae 'em. There's no bait like that there when yu +can get it, on'y nobody knows o'it." + +The nature of that bait I shall not divulge, any more than I shall name +the place where Uncle Jake goes to play with the young ravens in the +spring. Somebody might catch his prawns; somebody would shoot his +ravens. We had caught about two hundred prawns between us, a few +lobsters and some wild-crabs. As we walked homewards, the three cats +came down the lane, one by one, to welcome Uncle Jake. + +[Sidenote: _EAST WITH A SKIM-NET_] + +Next day we sailed east in the _Moondaisy_. Uncle Jake straddled the +pools and lifted the heavy stones. Then in a skim-net,[18] with +marvellous dexterity, he caught the almost invisible prawns as they +darted away. He dragged lobsters out of holes, and cursed the +neighbouring villagers who had been down to the shore after crabs and +had disturbed his favourite stones. He knows how each one ought to lie; +he even keeps the seaweed on some of them trimmed to its proper length. +"But 'tain't like 't used to be," he says. + + [18] Like a landing net, but shallower and with a shorter handle. + +He has almost given up going to sea for fish; some say because he will +not take the trouble; but I think it is because he loves his rocks and +cliffs so well. No one knows how much by night and day he haunts the +wilder stretches of shore, nor how many miles he trudges in a week. But +the gulls know him well, and will scream back to him when he calls. His +laugh has something of the gulls' cry in it. I have heard it remarked +that when his time comes (no sign of it yet) he will be found one +morning dead among his familiar rocks. He is acquainted with death +there. He has borne home on his shoulder by night the body of a woman +who had fallen from the cliffs above; and again a negro that had washed +ashore. With a little self-control one might have carried the woman all +right, but the drowned nigger.... Imagine his face in the darkness--his +eyes! Only a man with greatness in him, or a very callous man, could +have brought such a corpse home, all along under the crumbling cliffs; +and Uncle Jake is certainly not callous. + + +5 + +"Let 'em try any o' their tricks on me! They can turn out the likes o' +us all right, I s'pose. But I can tell 'em what I thinks on 'em, here's +luck. Thank God I don't live in no tradesman's house, an' can deal +where I likes. Not that I shouldn't anyway...." + +Grannie Pinn's shrill angry voice pierced the kitchen door. The +occasion was a mothers' gossiping; the subject, a kind of boycott that +is practised in Seacombe. On the table there was a jug of ale and stout +and an hospitably torn-open bag of biscuits. Around it sat Grannie +Pinn--bolt upright in the courting chair, with her hands folded--Mrs +Meer and Mam Widger. The feathers in Grannie Pinn's hat shook like a +bush on the cliff-edge. All of them looked as if they felt a vague +responsibility for the right conduct of the world. In short, they +looked political. + +[Sidenote: _POOR MAN v. TRADESMAN_] + +The poor people here live in small colonies scattered behind the main +street and among the villas, in little blocks of old neglected +property, some of which has been bought up by tradesmen. So much of the +former village spirit still survives, and so many of the tradesmen have +but recently risen from poorer circumstances, that between some of the +oldest and the youngest of them, and the workmen, there is even yet a +rather mistrustful fellowship. They call each other, Jim, Dick, Harry +and so on--over glasses, at all events. The growth of the class spirit, +as opposed to the old village spirit, can be seen plainly when Bessie +returns from school, saying: "Peuh! Dad's only a fisherman. Why can't +'er catch more fish an' get a little shop an' be a gen'leman?" Seacombe +tradesmen have been withdrawing into a class of their own--the class of +'not real gen'lemen'--and have been showing a tendency to act together +against the rest of the people, and to form rings for the purpose of +keeping shops empty or prices up. Nobody minds their bleeding visitors. +That is what God sends visitors for; and besides, the season is so +short. But when they began to overcharge their fellow townsmen, in +summer because it was the season and in winter because it wasn't the +season, the poor people revolted, and amid tremendous hubbub, thunders +of talk and lightnings of threat, a co-operative store was opened. Then +did the tradesmen remind the poor of old family debts, legacies from +hard times. Then did the poor say: "Very well, us'll hae our own store +and bakery, and pay cash down to ourselves." Unable to obtain the +tenancy of a shop, they bought one. They refused to raise the price of +bread. They laughed at advertisements which professed to point out the +fallacies of all co-operation. They succeeded, but the class difference +was widened and clinched--poor man _versus_ tradesman. + +Grannie Pinn, Mrs Meer and Mam Widger were reckoning up the number of +people who have been turned out of their cottages, or are under notice +to quit, for neglecting to deal with their tradesmen landlords. + +Their indignation having found vent, they went on to talk of Virgin +Offwill, who has acquired celebrity by living alone in a cottage on no +one knows what, by sleeping in an armchair before the fire (when she +can afford one), and by never washing. Sometime last month, Virgin sent +for Dr Jacks because, so she said, she was wished [bewitched]; and she +would not let him go until he threatened to report the state of her +house to the medical officer of health. + +[Sidenote: _GOD SAVE--THE DINNER_] + +The tale of Virgin Offwill was capped by another--that of old Mrs +Widworthy. Several years ago (these gossips have long memories) she +received a postal order from her son together with an invitation to +visit him in London. The post arrived after her man had gone to work. +She did not wait; she sent out a neighbour's child to change the order, +packed her few things in a basket, and went off to her son by the +midday train. On the table she left a note: + + "Widworthy, I am gone to London. Your dinner is in the saucepan. I + shall be back directly." + +There was loud laughter in the kitchen; another round of stout and ale; +then silence. The mothers fidgeted, each after her own manner, +meditatively. In all the world, and Seacombe, there seemed nothing to +talk about--or too much. + +"Have 'ee heard ort lately of Ned Corry?" asked Grannie Pinn with a +delightful mixture of gusto and propriety. "Have 'er still got Dina wi' +'en?" + +"Yes, I think." + +"An' his wife tu?" + +Bessie burst into the room. Neither Tony nor Mrs Widger approve of +discussing the intimate humanities before children, so Bessie was +allowed to fling her news to us unchecked. "Mother, Miss Mase says I +can leave school so soon as yu've found me a place. Then I'll hae some +money o' my own earnings, won't I?" + +"Yu'll bring it to me, same as I had to what I earned, an' yu'll stay +on to school till I thinks vitty. You'm not fit for a gen'leman's +house." + +"Yes, I be. I can work. That's what yu'm paid for, ain't it?" + +"How many cups an' saucers have yu smashed this week?" + +"Have they learned 'ee all yu wants to know up to school?" inquired +Grannie Pinn quietly, but with a twinkle at the company. + +"They an't learned me to play the pi-anno. That's what I wants now. If +Dad 'd get one, _I_'d play." + +"Have they learned 'ee to cook a dinner?" + +"Anybody can du thic. I've learned to play _God Save the King_ on the +school pi-anno." + +"How do 'ee start then?" + +"Why, you puts your fingers...." + +"Naw! I means how du 'ee start to cook dinner?" + +"Peuh!" + +"Her an't learned tidiness," said Mam Widger. "Lookse! Her scarf on one +chair, gloves flinged on another, coat slatted on the ground an' her +hat on the dresser--now, since her's come in! Pick 'em up to once, else +thee't hae my hand 'longside o'ee!" + +Bessie scrabbled up her clothes and, making sounds of disgust, went +out. + +"Her'll steady down, I hope," remarked Mrs Widger. "Her's wild, but a +gude maid to try an' help a body, though her makes so much work as her +does." + +"Ay!" said Grannie Pinn grimly. "If work don't steady her, there's +nothing will." + +[Sidenote: _NED CORRY_] + +When Bessie was gone the conversation reverted to Ned Corry and the +ages of his children. I met him last summer--have never ceased hearing +about him, for his sayings are often repeated and his adventures at sea +recounted. He came down here on holiday with his wife, who appeared to +be very happy and was obviously very proud of her Ned. The morning he +went back, he collected all of his old mates he could find, before +breakfast, into a public-house, treated them to whisky until his +pockets were empty, and then borrowed money to return to London. His +personality seems to have left a deeper impression than any other on +Seacombe. He is a man very alive; big, generous and uncontrollable in +all things; so broad that he seems short; great in voice, great in +strength, greatest in laughter. Very dark, and prominent in feature +where his fierce black beard allows any of his face to be seen, he is a +kind of Hebraic Berserker in general appearance, in the uncompromising +force of him and the squat sloppiness of his clothes. Yet his eyes, +almost bedded in hair, have often the bright peeping humorousness of a +shaggy dog's. + +He had the most boats on the beach, and mighty strokes of luck with the +fish; employed more men than anyone before or since; paid them well +when he had the money, and with an irregularity which would have been +tolerated from no other boat-owner. Dina went to lodge at his house. He +made of her, so gossip says, a second wife. He succeeded in running a +household of three; then bought two lodging houses and set a wife to +manage each. "Ned was all right," Tony says, "on'y he didn't know how +to look after hisself--didn't care--nor after his money when he made +it." One evening, Tony found him in his bath in the middle of the +kitchen whilst his womenfolk were cooking him a good hot supper. It was +not his being in his bath which made Tony blush, but the freedom with +which he called, "Come in!" + +When the prudent-minded of Seacombe clamoured to Ned for their money, +he sold up his boats and furniture, went to London, took without +apprenticeship a well-paid job at the docks, and now, as he walks home +along the dockside streets, he is given _Good Night_ from London +Bridge to Tilbury. The exerting of strength seems to have been his +leading impulse; pride in Ned Corry his only check. He was too big for +Seacombe. In London he remains entirely himself--'West-country Ned!' + +Before Ned Corry's affairs were finished with, Tony came into the +kitchen, saying: "I just been talking out there to Skinny Chubb. Nice +quiet chap, he is. His wife _is_ gone." + +"Well, didn't 'ee know that?" + +[Sidenote: _SELF-RESTRAINT_] + +Then I heard a wonderful tale of self-restraint. Chubb is a good +workman, a man of about fifty with grown up boys and girls. His wife +has been no good to him. She used to have men in the house when he was +away. She provided them with grog and food, but there was never +anything for Chubb to eat, except abuse. She won the daughters over to +her side. Sometimes she would go away to London, taking perhaps one of +the girls with her. Only the eldest son, who was not at home, sided +with his father. Neighbours used to hear the couple quarrelling half +the night, but during the whole of their married life he never once +struck or beat her. All he used to tell other people was:--"'Tis a +wonder how a man can stand all her du say to me, day an' night, early +an' late." + +Just before Michaelmas, she decided to leave her husband: to go to +London with a German flunkey. They broke up the home. Chubb packed up +for her the best of the furniture. He wrote out her labels, said +_Good-bye_, paid her cab fare to the station. Now he is living in +lodgings. Rumour has it that the German has left her. In answer to +inquiries, Chubb merely says: "Well, I tell 'ee, _I_ be glad to be out +o'it all at last. _I_'ll never hae her back." + +It is a sound old piece of psychology which distinguishes a man's bark +from his bite. The poor man's bark is appalling; I often used to think +there was murder in the air when I heard some quite ordinary +discussion; there would have been murder in the air had I myself been +worked up to speak so furiously. But, comparatively speaking, he seldom +bites; hardly ever without warning; and he can as a rule stay himself +in the very act. The educated man, on the other hand, does not bark +much; one of the most important parts of his education has been the +teaching him not to do so; but when he does bite, it is blindly, and he +makes his teeth meet if he can. We hear, of course, much more of the +poor man in the police courts, and we imagine (spite of Herbert +Spencer's warning) that education is to diminish his crimes. How very +simple and fallacious! In the first place, the poor, the uneducated or +but slightly educated, greatly out-number the educated. Suppose by +means of complete and trustworthy criminal statistics, we could work +out the _percentage criminality_ of the different classes. I fancy +that the poor man would not then show--even judged by our whimsical +legal and moral standards--a greater percentage criminality than the +educated. And if in our statistics we could include degrees of +provocation to the various crimes, such as hunger, poverty, want of the +money to leave exasperating surroundings--it would probably be found +that the poor are, if anything, less criminally disposed than other +sections of the community; that, though they lack something of the +secondary self-restraint which prevents bark and noise, they are, other +things being equal, actually stronger in that primary self-restraint, +the lack of which leads directly to crime. On _a priori_, historical, +grounds one would anticipate such a conclusion. + +It is certain that they forgive offence more readily. + +I have often wondered how many nice quiet respectable vindictive +murders are yearly done by educated men too clever to be found out. The +poor man is a fool at 'Murder as a Fine Art.' He hacks and bashes. + + +6. + +Sighting, as we thought, some balks of timber, floating away on the ebb +tide over the outside of Broken Rocks, two of us shoved a small boat +down the beach. Our flotsam was a trick of the fading light on the sea, +just where Broken Rocks raised the swell a little; but in the +exquisite, the almost menacing, calm of the evening, we leaned on our +oars and watched for a while. To seaward, the horizon was a peculiar +lowering purple, as if a semi-opaque sheet of glass were placed there. +On land, over the Windgap, the sunset was like many ranks of yellow and +shining black banners--hard, brassy. The sea was a misty blue. One by +one, according to their prominence, the bushes on the face of the +cliffs faded into the general contour. As we landed, a slight lop came +over the water from the dark south-east. "Ah!" said Uncle Jake. "We'm +going to hae it. South-easter's coming!" + +[Sidenote: _CALLED OUT BETIMES_] + +There was some discussion as to whether or not we should haul the boats +up over the sea-wall. In the end we hauled the smaller ones, leaving +the _Cock Robin_ and the drifter upon the beach. + +In the very early morning--it was so dark I could not see the outline +of the window--I half awoke to an indistinct sensation that the house +was rocking and hell unloosed outside. Something solid seemed to be +beating the wall. Than I heard Grandfer's voice roaring at the foot of +the stairs:--"What is it? Why, tell thic Tony he'd better hurry up else +all the boats 'll be washed away. Blowing a hurricane 'tis! Sea's +making. Oughtn't to ha' left they boats...." + +"Be quiet! yu'll wake all the kids up." + +"Blowing a hurricane 'tis! Nort to me if the boats du wash off. Tony'd +never wake." + +"All right, I'll wake him." + +In five minutes we were downstairs, with the fire lighted and the +kettle on. + +Outside, it was pitch dark. There was nothing there, it seemed, except +a savage wind and stinging splotches of rain and the cry of the low +tide on the sand. I felt my way up the Gut and out, sliding one foot +before the other so as not to fall over the sea-wall. John Widger +bumped into me, and together we crept along to the capstan. A white +shadow of surf was just visible. We dropped gingerly off the wall to +the beach, trusting there was no iron gear there to smash our ankles. +Then for an hour we fumbled our way about; pushed, hauled, +disentangled, slid and swore; grasping sometimes the right rope and +sometimes the wrong one with hands almost too cold and stiff, too +painful, to grasp anything at all. + +Out of the blackness came another hurricane squall with rain that +lashed. The rushing air itself shook. We crouched, all humped up, in +the lew of a drifter's bows, whilst the rain water washed around our +boots and coat-tails. "This 'll tell 'ee what 'tis like for us chaps," +said Tony. "I be only sorry," Uncle Jake added, "for them what's out to +sea now in ships wi' rotten gear." + +[Sidenote: _A DISCOLOURED FURY_] + +As the dawn broke thick, the sea rose still further, until it was a +discoloured fury battering the shore. With Uncle Jake I watched some +long planks, four inches in thickness and ten broad, swept off the top +of the beach. We saw them hurtled over Broken Rocks, now dashed against +the cliff, now careering, so to speak, on their hind legs. Such were +their mad capers that we laughed aloud. We were far from wishing to +save them. We rejoiced with them. + +As the day blew on, the wind moderated inshore and the lop gathered +itself together into a heavy swell. And after dark, at half tide, Uncle +Jake and myself worked hard. We dragged the heavy planks from a surf +that seemed ever advancing on us to drive us towards the cliffs, yet +never did, and we propped up the planks against cliffs whose crumbling +drove us constantly down to the sea. There's a winter's firing there. + +We talked--out-howling the noise jerkily--of wrecks and wreckages. Had +we had the chance, we might then conceivably have wrecked a ship. For +there, on the narrow strip of shingle between the wash of the waves and +the unstable cliff, we were primitive men, ready without ruth to wreck +for ourselves the contrivances of civilization. + + +7. + +Tony has received one or two presents this autumn, and now the gales +have put an end to all kinds of fishing, he is beginning to write his +letters of thanks. Or rather, he bothers Mam Widger to write them for +him, and when she has said sufficiently often, "G'out yu mump-head! Du +it yourself!" he sets to work. After long hesitation, pen in hand, and +a laborious commencement, he dashes off a letter, protests that it +ought to be burnt, and sends it to post. He acts, indeed, a comic +version of the groans and travail about which literary men talk so +much. + +[Sidenote: _PRESENTS AND TIPS_] + +Whether he prefers a present or a tip is doubtful, and depends largely +on the amount of money in the house. Presents are more valued; tips +more useful. He feels that 'there didn't ought to be no need of tips'; +knows obscurely that they are one of the effects, and the causes, of +class difference; that they are either a tacit admission that his +labour is underpaid, or else such an expression of good-will as a man +would not presume to give to 'the likes o' himself,' or else an +indirect bribe for some or other undue attention. Usually, however, not +wishing to go into the matter so thoroughly--having come in contact +with outsiders chiefly when they have been on holiday and least +economical--he considers a tip merely as the outflowing of a +gen'leman's abundance. "They can afford it, can't 'em? They lives in +big houses, an' it helps keeps thees yer little lot fed an' booted." + +If, however, he has reason to believe that 'a nice quiet gen'leman' is +really hard-up, then he is very sorry, and will reduce the rate of hire +by so much as half. In such cases, it is well that the gen'leman should +add a small tip, for his niceness' sake. Then is Tony more than paid. + +The gentleman, as such, seems to be losing prestige. Gentility is being +made to share its glory with education, 'Ignorant' is becoming a worse +insult than 'no class.' Grandfer, in argument will think to prove his +case by saying: "Why, a gen'leman told us so t'other day on the Front. +A gen'leman told me, I tell thee!" Grandfer's sons would like the +gen'leman's reasons. In fact the stuff and nonsense that the chatting +gen'leman, feeling himself safe from contradiction, will try to teach a +so-called ignorant fisherman, is most amazing. If he but knew how +shrewdly he is criticised, afterwards.... + +Education even is esteemed not so much for the knowledge it provides, +still less for its wisdom, as for the advantage it gives a man in +practical affairs; the additional money it earns him. "No doubt they +educated people knows a lot what I don't," says Tony, "an' can du a lot +what I can't; but there's lots o' things what I puzzles me old head +over, an' them not the smallest, what they ain't no surer of than I be. +Ay! an' not so sure, for there's many on 'em half mazed wi' too much +o'it." + + +8. + +[Sidenote: _BESSIE_] + +Bessie has finally left school. The excitement, the chatter, the sudden +air of superiority over the other children, the critical glance round +the room when she returns home.... She has learnt next to nothing of +school-work--which matters little, since she is strong, hopeful, and +has a genuine wish to do her best. What does matter is, that she is +careless, inclined to be slatternly, and has no idea of precision +either in speech or work. (Few girls have.) This is in part, no doubt, +mere whelpishness to be grown out of presently. She picks up some piece +of gossip. "Mother! Mrs Long's been taken to hospital. Her's going to +die, I 'spect." + +"No her an't gone to hospital nuther. Dr Bayliss says as her's got to +go if she ain't better to-morrow. Isn't that what you've a-heard now?" + +"Yes--but I thought her'd most likely be gone 'fore this," says Bessie +without, apparently, the least sense of shame, or even of inexactitude. + +The other day she reached down a cup to get herself a drink of water. +Then she took some pains to see if the cup still _looked_ clean, and +finding it did, she replaced it among the other clean ones on the +dresser. + +Her mother sent her out to the larder for some more bread. Bessie +brought in a new loaf. + +"That ain't it," said Mrs Widger. "There's a stale one there." + +"No, there ain't." + +"Yes, there is." + +"I've looked, an't I?" + +"Yu go an' look again, my lady." + +"Well, 'tis dark, an' I an't got no light to see with." + +Protesting vehemently, Bessie found the stale loaf. Were I her +mistress, she would irritate me into a very bad temper, and then, by +her muddle-headed willingness, would make me sorry. She is untrained. +School has in no way disciplined her mind. From early childhood, of +course, she has had to do many odd jobs for her mother, but a woman +with the whole burden of a house on her shoulders, who has never found +the two ends more than just meet, cannot spare time or thought to train +her girls systematically. It is so much easier to do the whole of the +work herself. Bessie's usefulness, such as it is, speaks a deal for her +disposition. After all, how many women in any station of life, have +precision and forethought enough to lay a fire so that it will burn up +at once? Bessie is only thirteen. It is, indeed, her ability for her +age that tempts one to judge her by a standard which elsewhere--except +among women discussing their servants--would only be applied to a girl +of twenty. + +Suppose fathers judged their daughters as mothers judge their +servants.... + +[Sidenote: _GOING INTO SERVICE_] + +For the present, Bessie is in daily service at a lodging-house. For a +'gen'leman's residence,' which would be better for her, she is +over-young and would, besides, need an outfit of dresses, caps and +aprons which she is not yet old enough to take care of, nor will be +until she is ready to fall in love. She can go to Mrs Butler's in a +torn dress and dirty pinafore. She is not expected to appear before the +visitors; only to do the dirty, rough, and heavy work behind the +scenes. It was a condition of her leaving school so young, that she +should go into service and sleep there. Very naturally, Mrs Widger and +Mrs Butler soon arranged that the 'education lady,' when she came to +inspect, should be shown Bessie's bedroom at the lodging-house--and +that Bessie should sleep at home. It was better for all three; for Mrs +Butler who is short of room, for Mrs Widger who wants Bessie's help, +and for Bessie who still requires her mother's authority and oversight. +Educationalists don't seem to understand. + +In return for two shillings a week and her food, Bessie is supposed to +work twelve hours a day, from eight till eight. All she does might +possibly be crammed into three hours a day; that is all she is paid +for. She brings home her supper in a piece of newspaper. One evening +she brought some chicken bones which had been in turn the foundation of +roast chicken, cold chicken, stewed chicken, and soup. Bessie rather +enjoyed them. Another evening, she unwrapped a whole cake. It fell on +the floor, whack! neither bouncing, nor breaking. It was full of dough. +A basin of soup-dregs which she brought home two days ago was found to +contain a length of stewed string. Stewed to rags, it was, like badly +boiled meat. Bessie says that Mrs Butler did miss a bell-rope. + + +9 + +There was a rush and a banging up the passage. The kitchen door burst +violently open. A girl (though she wore long skirts her figure was +unformed and her waist had a stiff youthful curve) ran quickly into the +room. + +Her eager bright-coloured young face--that also not yet fully +formed--was overshadowed by a flapping decorated hat obviously +constructed less for a woman's head--less still for a maiden's--than +for a cash draper's window. Her chest was plastered with a motley +collection of cheap jewellery and lace. Her boots had not been cleaned. + +She dropped her cardboard boxes on the floor. Regardless of her womanly +attire, like nothing so much as a hasty child, she flung her arms round +Tony's neck. + +"Hallo, Dad! How be 'ee? Eh? How's everybody? Lord, I'm hungry. Look +what I got for 'ee. An't forgot nobody this time, though 'tisn't +everybody as remembers me. Look, Dad!" + +"What is it?" asked Tony, looking blankly, as if he could hardly +realise so much clatter. + +"Lookse, Dad! What do 'ee think o'it?" + +A box was torn open. From it came a couple of glass ornaments, and +various sorts of 'coloured rock' and sticky toffee for the children. + +[Sidenote: _BACK FROM SERVICE_] + +It was Tony's eldest daughter, Jenny, come home from service. She +walked round the room picking up things to examine, things to eat, +things that she claimed were hers, and things that she desired given +her. She talked without, so far as I could see, any connection between +the sentences. Mouthfuls of food reduced her babbling shriek to a +burr-burr. + +"Be 'ee glad to see your daughter, Dad?" + +"Iss...." said Tony, looking at her very fondly, but still puzzled. + +"Don't believe yu be. Why didn't 'ee write then if yu loves me so?" + +"Thic's Mam 'Idger's job." + +"G'out!" said Mrs Widger,--"Jenny, you an't see'd our addition, have +'ee." + +I held out my hand. Jenny blushed; then she said: "Good evening, sir"; +then she giggled; and finally she turned her back on me. It took a +minute or two for her happy carelessness to return. + +Domestic servants on holiday, more than any other class of people, +strain one's tact and rouse one's ingrained snobbery. They tend to be +over-respectful--the sort of respectfulness that presupposes +reward,--and to brandish _sirs_, or to be shy and silly, or else +to treat one with a more airy familiarity than the acquaintanceship +warrants. In the matter of manners, they sit between two chairs, the +class they serve has one code; the class they spring from has another, +equally good perhaps, certainly in some respects more delicate, but +different. In imitating the one code, unsuccessfully, they lose their +hold on the other. Their very speech--a mixture of dialect and standard +English with false intonations--betrays them. They are like a man +living abroad, who has lost grip on his native customs, and has +acquired ill the customs of his adopted country. It is not their fault. +Circumstances sin against them. + +Mrs Widger tells me that, when she left her mother's for service, she +felt nothing so keenly as the loneliness, the isolation, of being in a +house where no one could be in any full sense of the word her +confidant, where she was at the beck and call of strangers from the +time she got up till the time she went to bed, where her irregular +hours of leisure were passed quite alone in a kitchen. It seems, as +might be anticipated, that _mental_ comfort or discomfort is at the +bottom of the servant question, and that class differences, class +misunderstandings, are ultimately the cause of it. Often enough the +mistress wishes to be kind, but she fails to understand that what she +values most differs from what is most valued by her servants. Often +enough the servants wish to do their best, but little irritations, +unsalved by sympathy and not to be discussed on terms of equality, lead +to sulky, don't-care moods which exasperate the mistress into positive, +instead of negative, unkindness. So a vicious circle is formed. The +covert enmity between one woman and another simply calls for give and +take where both are of the same class, but when one of them is, for +payment and all day, at the disposal of the other.... How many homes +there are where the menfolk can get anything done willingly, and the +mistress nothing whatever! The girls go out so early. They miss the +rough and tumble of their homes. They have their own little ambitions, +hardly comprehensible to anyone else. Whether or no they desire to be +satisfactory, they do want their own little flutters. + + +10 + +[Sidenote: _LITTLE SERVANT GIRLS_] + +Poor brave small servant girls, earning your living while you are yet +but children! I see your faces at the doors, rosy from the country or +yellowish-white from anaemia and strong tea; see how your young breasts +hardly fill out your clinging bodices, all askew, and how your hips are +not yet grown to support your skirts properly--draggle-tails! I see you +taking the morning's milk from the hearty milkman, or going an errand +in your apron and a coat too small for you, or in your mistress's or +mother's cast-off jacket, out at the seams, puffy-sleeved, years behind +the fashion and awry at the shoulders because it is too big. I see your +floppety hat which you cannot pin down tightly to your hair, because +there isn't enough of it;--your courageous attempts to be prettier than +you are, or else your carelessness from overmuch drudgery; your +coquettish and ugly gestures mixed. + +I picture your life. Are you thinking of your work, or are you dreaming +of the finery you will buy with your month's wages; the ribbons, the +lace, or the lovely grown-up hat? Are you thinking of what he said, and +she said, and you said, you answered, you did? Are you dreaming of +_your_ young man? Are you building queer castles in the air? Are +you lonely in your dingy kitchen? Have you time and leisure to be +lonely? + +I follow you into your kitchen, with its faint odour of burnt grease +(your carelessness) and of cockroaches, and its whiffs from the +scullery sink, and a love-story that scents your life, hidden away in a +drawer. I hear your mistress's bell jingle under the stairs. You must +go to bed, and sleep, and be up early, before it is either light or +warm, to work for her; you must be kept in good condition like a cart +horse or a donkey; you must earn, earn well, your so many silver pounds +a year. + +In mind, I follow you also into your little bedroom under the roof, +with its cracked water-jug that matches neither the basin or the +soap-dish, and its boards with a ragged scrap of carpet on them, and +your tin box in the corner; and the light of the moon or street lamp +coming in at the window and casting shadows on the sloping whitewashed +ceiling; and your guttered candle. What will you try on to-night? A +hat, or a dress, or the two-and-eleven-three-farthing blouse? Shift the +candle. Show yourself to the looking-glass. A poke here and a pull +there--and now put everything away carefully in the box under the bed, +and go to sleep. + +Though I say that I follow you up to your attic, and watch you and see +you go to sleep, you need not blush or giggle or snap. I would not do +you any harm; your eyes would plague me. And besides, I do not entirely +fancy you. You are not fresh. You are boxed up too much. But I trust +that some lusty careless fellow, regardless of consequences, looking +not too far ahead, and following the will of his race--I trust that he +will get hold of you and whirl you heavenwards, and will fill your +being full to the brim; and will kiss you and surround you with +himself, and will make you forget yourself and your mistress and all +the world, the leaves and birds of the Lover's Lane, the shadowy cattle +munching in the field and the footsteps approaching. + +I wish you luck--that your young man may stick to you. It is after all +a glimpse of God I wish you, perhaps your only one. + +You've got a longish time before you. + + +11 + +[Sidenote: _MRS YARTY_] + +Mrs Yarty, up Back Lane, is reduced to that last extremity of poor +women: she is cleaning her cottage and preparing as well as she can 'to +go up over' on credit, without either doctor or midwife--unless she +becomes so ill that someone sends for the parish doctor. She will not +wish that done, and probably when her time comes, some neighbour will +look in to see if she is going on as well as can be expected. Were +Yarty and his wife sufficiently servile to attend church or chapel, +prayer-meetings or revivals, all sorts of amateur parsons, male and +female, would flock round; but in any case, Mrs Yarty has no time for +such goings-on, and if Yarty found anyone sniffing about his house, he +would certainly tell them that it _was_ his house. + +A while ago one of the 'district ladies' came here, to Tony's. We were +a little short with her, and as a last resource, she remarked +superciliously, in a tone of pleasant surprise: "You are really _very_ +clean here." 'Twas an untruth. We are not _very_ clean: we are as +cleanly as is practicable. I should have liked to show her the door. +"'Tis only the way of 'em!" said Mrs Widger. "They'm stupid, but they +means all right." + +[Sidenote: _THE YARTY CHILDREN_] + +Mrs Yarty is not low-spirited at all, and though her voice sounds +rather hysterical, it is merely her manner of speaking, slightly +accentuated perhaps by more trouble than usual. She is fairly well used +to such events by now. Yarty himself is angry. His ordinary habits are +bound to be upset for a few days; for ever, if Mrs Yarty dies. He is +what successful and conceited people call a waster. "There ain't no +harm in him," Tony says. "He wuden't hurt a fly. The only thing is, 'er +don't du much." I have never seen him actually drunk. He keeps very +nearly all his irregular earnings for his own use in a strong locked +box upstairs. His house is a sort of hotel to him, where he expects to +find a bed and food, and it is apparently not his business to inquire +how the food is obtained. If there is none, he makes a fuss, and will +not take for an answer that he has failed to bring the money. Bobby +Yarty, thin, pale, big-eyed, the eldest son but one--a nice intelligent +boy though he swears badly at his mother--is ill of a disease which +only plenty of good food can cure. If, however, food is scarce, it is +first Mrs Yarty who goes short, then the children. Whether they do, or +don't, have as much as a couple of chunks each of bread and dripping, +Yarty must have his stew or fry. The wage-earner has first claim on the +food, and even when the wage-earner does not earn, the custom is still +kept up. It is possible also that Mrs Yarty has still an underlying +affection for her man, a real desire, become instinctive, to feed him. + +She does not say so. Far from it. She says that she is sorry she ever +left a good place to marry Yarty. She would, she declares, go back into +service but for her children. Washing-day, she swears, is her jolliest +time, and she boasts, with what pride is left her, of there being +places at twelve or fourteen shillings a week still open to her. She +did take a place once--was allowed to take her baby with her--but at +the end of a fortnight she arrived home to find that her husband, +impatient for his tea, had thrown all the crockery on the floor. She +saw then that she must be content with things as they are. + +Her present worry is, what will become of the children while she is up +over, and who will feed them? Mam Widger will do her share, I don't +doubt. Very often now she puts aside something for them. There is a +sort of pleasantness in watching them take it: they run off with the +dish or baking tin like very polite and very hungry dogs, and bring it +back faithfully with exceeding great respectfulness towards a household +where there is food to spare. + +Mrs Yarty is one of those people who work better for others than for +themselves. She is no manager. "They says," she remarked the other day, +"as He do take care of the sparrows." She is a sparrow herself; she +grubs up sustenance, rubs along without getting any forwarder, where +others would go under altogether. Years ago she must have been +good-looking. Her patchily grey hair is crisp; she still has a few +pretty gestures. But trouble and too much child-bearing have done next +to their worst with her. Sensible when she grasps a thing, she is often +a bit mazed. She has the figure of an old woman--bent, screwed--and the +toughness of a young one. Her words, spoken pell-mell in a high +strained voice which oscillates between laughter and tears, seem to be +tumbling down a hill one after another. Spite of all her household +difficulties, she retains the usual table of ornaments just inside the +front door. Last summer she reclaimed from the roadway a tiny +triangular garden, about five inches long in the sides, by wedging a +piece of slate between the doorstep and the wall. There she kept three +stunted little wall-flowers--no room for more--which she attended to +every morning after breakfast. Cats destroyed them in the end. She +laughed, as it were gleefully. Her laugh is her own; derisive, +open-mouthed, shapeless, hardly sane--but she has a smile--a smile at +nothing in particular, at her own thoughts--which is singularly sweet +and pathetic. I cannot but think that the spirit which enables her to +live on without despair, to love her little garden and to smile so +sweetly, is better worth than much material comfort. Hers, after all, +is a life that has its fragrance. + + +12 + +[Sidenote: _TONY AS NURSEMAID_] + +Mrs Widger went off after tea to look at Rosie's grave. She likes to go +alone, without the children, and she also likes to stop and have a chat +with someone she knows up on land. In consequence, Tony, taking his +Sunday evening promenade, found the children on the Front just in that +state when they want, and do not wish, to go to bed. They followed him +in. + +"Wer's thic Mam 'Idger?" + +"Don' know!" + +"Her's gone to cementry." + +"Didn' ought to leave 'ee like thees yer." + +"Her's gone to see Rosie." + +Tony felt himself rather helpless. "Now then," he cried with a vain +nourish, "off to bed wi' 'ee!" + +"No!--No!--Shan't!--Us an't had no supper." + +"Wer is yer supper? What be going to hae?" + +"Don' know.--Mam! Mam 'Idger!" + +One started crying, then the other. + +"Casn' thee put 'em to bed thyself?" I asked. + +"I don' know! Better wait.... Her's biding away a long time. I'll hae +to talk to she." + +Tony sat down in the courting chair. The two boys climbed one on each +of his knees. They wriggled themselves comfortable, and fell asleep. He +woke them. "Won' 'ee go to bed now? I wants to go out." + +"No! No!" they cried peevishly. "Wer's thiccy Mam?" + +Their white heads, turned downwards in sleep on either side of Tony's +red weathered face, looked very patient and bud-like. Tony's eyes +twinkled over them with a humorous helplessness, crossed occasionally +by a shade of impatience. So the three of them waited for the +household's source of energy to return. Tony had been wanting a glass +of beer. He nearly slept too. + +Mam Widger said, when she did come, that they were 'all so big a fule +as one another.' "Casn' thee even get thy children off to bed?" she +asked. + +"I can't help o'it," was Tony's reply. + +[Sidenote: _LOSS OF TEMPER_] + +She has taken the household affairs so completely on her shoulders that +he is almost helpless without her. In many ways, and in the better, the +biblical, sense of the word, he is still so childlike that he often +gets done for him what it would be useless for other people who have +little of the child in them, to expect. For the same reason, bullies +choose him out for attack. If I should happen to lose my temper with +him, it is a fault on my part, quickly repented of and quicker +forgiven, but a fault nevertheless. If he, on the other hand, loses his +temper with me, he merely says afterwards: "Ah! I be al'ays like +that--irritable like; I al'ays was an' I al'ays shall be to the end o' +the chapter." He assumes that there was no fault on his part, that his +loss of temper was simply the outcome of the nature of things and of +himself, and consequently that there was nothing to call for +forgiveness. The curious thing is that one feels his view to be right. +One does not _forgive_ children; nor the childlike spirit either. + +Returning from sea one evening, more lazy than tired, he said: "You +wash me face, Mam, an' I'll wash me hands myself." His face was washed +amid shouts of laughter, and I tugged off his boots. We were all quite +pleased. Happy is the man for whom one can do that sort of thing! + +Mrs Widger explained the other day at dinner that for a time after they +were married, Tony used to help a great deal with the housework, until +once, when he was doing something clumsily, she said: "Git 'long out +wi' 'ee, I can du that!" + +"Iss," added Tony, "I used to scrub, and help her wi' the washing (an' +kiss her tu), but I ain't done nort to it since her spoke to me rough, +like that, an' now I be got out the way o'it, an' that's the reason +o'it--thic Mam 'Idger there!" + +"G'out! 'tis thy...." + +"Oh well, I du cuddle 'ee sometimes, when yu'm willing!" + + +13 + +Against the beach the listless sea made a sound like a rattle, very +gently and continuously shaken by a very tired baby. Nothing was doing. +The air was a little too chilly for pleasure boating. Tony had gone to +'put away up over' the after-dinner hour. I lay down to read, and fell +asleep to the meg-meg of Mam Widger's voice chatting in a neighbour's +doorway. + +Two or three small pebbles jumped through the open window. Uncle Jake +was below. When he says, on the Front, that he is going somewhere, he +may set off this week, next week, or never; but when he wakes one +up.... I hastened down. + +[Sidenote: _PRAWNING WITH BOAT-NETS_] + +"Going shrimpin' wi' the boat-nets," he said, flavouring, as it were, a +tit-bit in his mouth. "Must try and earn summut if I bean't going to +feel the pinch o' _thees_ winter." Then he added as if it were an +afterthought: "Be 'ee coming?" + +"When?" + +"Now--so sune as I can get enough bait. I've a-got a beautiful cod's +head towards it. Back about midnight, I daresay." + +"All right." + +"Put some clothes on your back. I'll bring a bottle o'tay--better than +brewers' tack--an' go'n get the boat ready. Take the _Moondaisy_.... Eh?" + +Tony, just downstairs and still rubbing his eyes (when he snoozes he +goes right to bed), asked what was up. "Shrimping wi' Uncle Jake," I +replied. "That'll gie thee a doing!" he said. "Yu ask George. George +used to be Uncle Jake's mate. 'Tis, 'Back oar-for'ard--back wi' +inside--steady--steady--damn yer eyes!' George couldn't put up wi' it. +Jake don' never sleep hisself, and wuden' let he sleep." + +The poor little _Moondaisy_, lying on ways at the water's edge, looked +as if she had a small deckhouse aft. Sixteen boat-nets,[19] with their +lines and corks, were piled up on the stern seats. In the stern-sheets +were two baskets, one of them very smelly, and a newspaper parcel that +reeked. Piled up in the bows were bits of old rope, sacks and bags +(very catty), chips of wood, empty tea-bottles, and all the litter that +collects in a boat used by Uncle Jake. + + [19] Boat-nets are the same in construction as setting-nets (see + p. 192), but upwards of a yard in diameter. Instead of a cord and + stick, they have attached to them four or five fathoms of grass + line. A few small flat oval corks are spliced at short intervals + into the end of the line remote from the net, and at the + extremity is a cork buoy about half as large as a man's head. + +"Where are we going?" I asked. + +"_I_ knows; but if anybody asks yu where we'm going, or where we've +been, don't yu tell 'em. Don't want none o' they treble-X-ers on our +ground. You say like ol' Pussey Pengelly used to: 'Down to Longo.' I +don't hae nobody 'long wi' me what can't keep a quiet tongue.--I can +see some o' they hellers down there now, but they ain't so far west as +we'm going, not by a long way. An' yu wuden' see 'em where they be if +they didn't think 'twas going to be a quiet night with not much pulling +attached to it. But _I_ shuden' be surprised to see a breeze down +easterly 'fore morning. Don't du to get caught down to Longo be an +easterly breeze. Lord, the pulls I've a-had to get home 'fore now!" + +[Sidenote: _THE HIGH-TIDE WAVES_] + +A very old-fashioned figure Uncle Jake looked, standing up in the +stern-sheets and bending rhythmically, sweep and jerk, sweep and jerk, +to his long oar, as if there were wires inside him. His grey +picture-frame beard seems to have the effect of concentrating the +expressiveness of his face, the satiric glint of his eyes, the dry +smile, the straightness of his shaven upper lip, and the kindly +lighting-up of the whole visage when he calls to the sea-gulls and they +answer him back, and he says with the delight of a child, "There! Did +'ee hear thic?" Keeping close along shore in order to avoid the +strength of the flood tide against us, we rode with a perfection of +motion on the heave of the breaking swell. As we were passing over the +inside of Broken Rocks, three waves ran far up the beach. "Did 'ee hear +thic rattle?" Uncle Jake exclaimed. "That was the high-tide wave, then, +whatever the tide-tables say. Yu'll hear the low tide t'night if yu +listens." + +Once I backed the boat ashore for Uncle Jake to go and look at one of +the numerous holes under the cliffs, in every one of which he has +wreckage stored up for firewood against the winter. He can at least +depend on having warmth. When he is nowhere to be found, he is a as a +rule down-shore carrying jetsam into caves. Much of it he gives away +for no other payment than the privilege of talking sarcastically at +those who don't trouble to go and of blazing forth at them when they +do. + +The November sun went down while we rowed, an almost imperceptible +fading of daylight into delicate thin colours and finally into a shiny +grey half-light. More and more the cliffs lowered above us. They lost +their redness except where a glint of the sun burned splendidly upon +them; coloured shadows, as it were, came to life in the high earthern +flanks, lifted themselves off, and floated away into the sunset, until +the land stood against and above the sea, black and naked, crowned with +distorted thorn bushes. Very serene was the sky, but a little hard. +"Wind down east t'morrow," Uncle Jake repeated. We passed Refuge Cove, +over Dog Tooth Ledge, and along Landlock Bay. We tossed over the Brandy +Mull, a great round pit in a reef, where even in calm weather the tide +boils always. No further were there any beaches. The sea washed to the +sheer cliffs through tumbled heaps of rocks. "_'Tis_ an ironbound +shop!" said Uncle Jake. "Poor fellows, that gets wrecked hereabout! I +knows for some copper bolts when they rots out o' the wreck where they +be." + +We had rowed down to Longo on the calm sea; we were on the sea, almost +in it, in so small a boat; and shorewards were the tide-swirls, the +jagged rocks, the high black cliffs. The relation of sea and land was +become reversed for us. The sea was no longer a thirsty menace, an +unknown waste. It was the land, the rocks and the cliffs, which +threatened hungrily. Night-fears, had there been any, would surely have +sprung out from the land. + +[Sidenote: _A COD'S HEAD_] + +We rowed into a bay whose wide-spreading arms were like an amphitheatre +of shadows. + +"Take thees yer oar," said Uncle Jake. "Wer's thic cod's head?" + +Everywhere in the boat, to judge by one's nose. He found it, hacked it, +then beat it with a pebble, and hacked again, and tore. From it came +two awful separate smells--one like that of a dissecting room, the +other like bad crab's inside, or like fearfully perverted cocoa, just +wetted--a sort of granulated stink that stopped one's breath. Beautiful +bait! + +"Now then, while I fixes the bait between the thirts," said Uncle Jake, +"yu paddle westward. Keep 'en straight, else if a bit of a breeze +comes, us'll never find the buoys." While I rowed very slowly, he flung +overboard first a buoy and then its net, a buoy and its net, till he +had hove the whole sixteen with about four boat's lengths between each. +The _plop_ was echoed from the cliff, and as the nets sank the sea-fire +glittered green upon them. He drew on a ragged pair of oilskin +trousers, stationed himself on the starboard side of the stern-sheets, +and grasped the longer tiller. On account of the ebb tide and +consequent lay of the corks, we worked back, in reverse order, +eastwards. It was for me to row the boat up until the bow was just +inside the large buoy. Then Uncle Jake's directions, more or less +abbreviated, came fast one after another: + +_Back outside oar_ (or _Pull inside oar_), to bring the bows round +towards the buoy. + +_Pull both oars_, to bring the boat up to the buoy. + +_Pull outside oar_, to bring the stern of the boat a nice striking +distance from the line between the buoy and the small corks. (Uncle +Jake strikes under and up with the tiller.) + +_Pull both oars_, while he hauls in the loose line. + +_Back both_, to stop the boat's way. + +_Back outside oar_, to keep the line just clear of the gunwale. + +_Stop_, while he hauls very slowly and stealthily at first, lest prawns +and lobsters jump out, then swiftly, raising his arms high above his +head, until the net is aboard. + +So, in single and even half strokes, with variations according to +current and wind, for all the sixteen buoys and nets. Whilst Uncle +Jake, on his part, dropped the prawns into a bag which hung from his +neck, flung the wild-crabs amidships, and the lobsters under the stern +seat, and hove out the net again a few yards from where it was at +first--I, on my part, had to spy the next buoy, a mere rocking blot on +the water, to find out how the line lay from it, and then to hold the +boat steady till he was ready with the tiller. After a time, one became +a little mazed, one's head ached with screwing it round to sight the +buoys, and his directions ceased so long as everything was going right. + +[Sidenote: _MAKING THE ROUNDS_] + +Very wonderful, even exhilarating was the silence and loneliness, the +feeling that ourselves only, of all the world, were in that beautiful +mysterious place. Had I had prayers to say, I should have said them, +sure that some sort of a God was brooding on the waters and suspicious +perhaps, at the back of my mind, that where the black cliffs upreared +themselves, there the devil was. + +After we had hauled and shot again the sixteenth net, Uncle Jake +counted one hundred and seventy odd prawns from his bag into the +basket. "Do 'ee see how whitish they be?" he asked. "They'm al'ays like +that in the dirty water after a gale. Lord, what a battering they poor +things must get when it blows on thees yer coast!" He picked over the +lobsters to see if any were saleable, but found only small +ones--cockroaches--that, as he said, "it don't do to let the bogie-man +[fishery inspector] glimpse.--An' I've a-catched," he added, "more than +five shill'orth o' fine lobsters in one round of the prawn-nets 'fore +they bloody men from the west'ard came up hereabout wi' their pots. Ah, +shrimpin' ain't what 't used to be!" + +We made three more rounds in that bay, then hauled all our nets into +the boat, rowed further west, and shot our nets round a submarine +ledge, the whereabouts of which Uncle Jake knew to a yard. A couple of +rounds there, and we brought up to the buoy of a lobster pot (for the +ebb tide, washing round the headland, kept on hurtling us out to sea), +had our supper, and waited. Prawns take longer to go into the nets +after a second round in the same water. + +A haziness that had been in the sky, strengthened into a lurry of +little cloudlets between us and the stars. "That's where 'tis going to +be," said Uncle Jake. "Easterly! Do 'ee feel this bit of a swell? Us +won't be here to-morrow night.--There! Did 'ee hear that? Eh?" + +Two waves gave forth a peculiar confidential chuckle, long drawn out +and very gentle, very fatigued--as if the sea were making some signal +to us; as if it wished to say that it was tired of ebbing and flowing. +The cliff shadow listened, I thought, immovable and pitiless, but I +fancy that I heard the cry of a bird a quarter of a mile to the +eastward. Sea life wakes up with the flow of the tide. I had forgotten +the gulls and the ravens; had forgotten the existence of all living +things except prawns, lobsters and wild-crabs. No more waves +chuckled.... "That's the low tide waves sure 'nuff--thic chuckle. +There's mostly three on 'em. An' I can al'ays hear the rattle of the +high tide waves tu--iss, even in a gale o' wind. What a rattle they +makes on the beach, to be sure! They fules o' visitors 'ould laugh at +'ee if yu was to tell 'em that--they've a-laughed at me--but 'tis true. +Yu've heard, an't 'ee?" + +The end buoy was troublesome to find. And in the middle of the round, I +rowed up to a shadow thinking to find a buoy, and there close beside +the boat, revealed as the swell sank, was a reef of rock, humped and +covered with seaweed which stood up on end as the water flowed +shallowly over the ledge. It was like a grisly great head, ages old, +immense, and of terrible aspect, heaving itself up through the sea at +us. + +[Sidenote: _UNCLE JAKE'S MATES_] + +With much careful working of the boat, we picked up the middle buoys +from the ledge, and hove them further to sea. Uncle Jake swore at the +reef, at the nets, at himself, at his luck. "_'Tis_ a bloody crib! +Didn't think the tide was going to fall so far. This same happened the +very last time I was down yer wi' old Blimie--old Sublime, us calls +'en. 'Let's get out o' this!' he said. 'Leave the blasted nets an' +let's get out o' it quick!' But I 'ouldn't let 'en, not I--us had three +thousand shrimps thic night; an' he very nearly cried, he did. '_Tis_ +some mates I've had for thees yer job. Most of 'em won't come when they +can pay the brewer any other way. _I'll_ never come out again wi' the +last three on 'em, not if I starves for it. One of 'em went to sleep; +t'other cuden' see the buoys; an' old Blimie was blind and not willing +neither. 'Wer be the cursed things?' he'd say. 'Back!' I'd say. 'Back +oars! You'm on top o' it!' 'Well, I be backing, bain't I?' he'd say, +an' go on pulling jest the same. Then 'er said 'er was ill and wanted +to go home. _He_ won't come no more, not if he starves, an' me too. +I won't hae 'en!" + +A ripple came down from the east. The sound of its _lap-lap-lap_ under +the boat stole on one's ears sleepily, but it roused Uncle Jake to +quick action. "Do 'ee see thees little cockle on the water?" he said. +"Do 'ee feel the life o'it in the boat? Must get out of thees yer, else +we shan't never find the buoys." + +We picked up the buoys--those we had shifted out of line were hard to +find, for the stars were now all hidden by cloud--and a little breeze +followed the ripple from the east. Rowing along under the cliffs, even +inside some of the rocks, through passages that only Uncle Jake is sure +of, we caught the young flood tide. The north-easter, that blew out +freshly from the Seacombe valley, chilled us to the bone. + +Seacombe was asleep. No one was on the Front. We had to carry the nets +up from the water's edge to the seawall before our utmost straining +could drag the _Moondaisy_ up the bank of shingle. For more than an +hour we hauled. + +When at last it was over, I brought Uncle Jake in house and made him a +cup of cocoa. We had been nine hours' rowing. Though he could have done +the same again, without food or rest, he looked a little haggard. It +seemed impossible to believe that the grey old man with disordered hair +and beard, clothed in rags and patches, sipping cocoa in a windsor +chair, was that same alert shadow who had been reckoning up life, so +humorously and wisely, in the darkness under the cliffs. He referred +again to the winter's pinch. It must mean that he has not enough money +put by from summer for the days coming, when even he will not be able +to find some odd job. Yet, as I know very well, when the pinch does +come he will go short and say nothing whatever to anybody. He will be +merely a shade more sarcastic. One of the children may come home saying +that 'thic Uncle Jake an't had half a pound of butter all this week,' +or that he has been in one of his passions with Aunt Jake for taking in +a loaf of bread without paying cash for it. He will bring out a +ha'penny from a little screw of newspaper to buy milk for his cats, and +he will take some crumbs to leave on dry rocks under the cliffs for the +robins that flutter after him there. "Poor things!" he'll say. And to +people he will still be saying what he thinks, fair or foul, gentle or +hard. To understand his sternness and his kindness, it needs to go with +him wrinkling in the sunshine and prawning in the dark. He is become +very like his beloved rocks and cliffs. He is, as one might say, a +voice for them, and his words and deeds are what one would expect their +words and deeds to be, did they not stand there, warm, sunny and +graciously coloured, or dark and stern, fronting the sea immovably, as +Uncle Jake fronts life. "Du _I_ want to die?" he says when asked his +age. "Why, I'd like to live a thousand years!" + + +14 + +[Sidenote: _NARCOTICS AND STIMULANTS_] + +Tony is singularly free from any craving either for narcotics or +stimulants. Most people I know, especially those who do brain work or +live in cities, are satisfied if they can strike a working balance +between the two. Granfer must have his glass of beer regularly, but +neither smokes nor drinks much tea; Uncle Jake snuffs and loves his +tea, but drinks no alcohol whatever; John Widger smokes heavily; and I +have never known Mrs Widger get up in the morning without her cup o' +tay. Tony, on the other hand, smokes, for politeness' sake, an +occasional cigarette when it is offered him, does not hanker after his +tea, and scarcely ever drinks alone. He gets drunk now and then, not +because he greatly wants to, but socially; because, when half-a-dozen +of them are drinking in rounds, 'What can a fellow du?' Even then he +often leaves untouched a glassful that has been ordered for him, though +all the while after his third or fourth glass, he may be asking other +men to 'drink up and hae another.' Drinking with him is an expression +of jollity, not the means of it. + +The Perkinses went at the end of last week into a jerry-built villa up +on land. To escape the brunt of moving in, probably, Perkins took Tony +to a football match at Plymouth. It was not so much that they drank a +great deal, as that they came home, singing, in a very overcrowded and +smoky railway carriage. "I s'pose I got exzited like," Tony says. He +was all right until they got out into the fresh air, and then ... +Perkins brought him in house and laid him along the passage. "Here's +your husband, Mrs Widger." Being rather afraid of Mrs Widger, because +she always speaks her mind, Perkins disappeared quickly. + +[Sidenote: _TONY ON DRINK_] + +_In vino veritas_, no doubt. When Tony is drunk he becomes most +affectionate, and begins 'slatting things about'--not violently or +maliciously, but simply out of joyous devilment and a desire to feel +that he is doing something. Mrs Widger neither wept nor upbraided him. +"Yu silly gert fule!" she said. "Yu silly gert fule! Shut up, or yu'll +wake they chil'ern." + +"Be glad tu see yer Tony?" + +"G'out! Git yer butes off." + +Tony made the chairs skip round the room and thought he'd like to see +the table (with the lamp) upside down. The window curtains annoyed him. +Mrs Widger took steps. + +Luckily, she is not with child, or otherwise delicate, and can +therefore stand a deal of rough and tumble. She pushed him headlong +into a chair and took off his boots. (Those two, there alone, for Under +Town was asleep.) Then she shouldered him upstairs, like a heavy piece +of luggage, and laid him on their bed. Poor Tony was more than leery. +He swam. He moaned. He was sick. He could neither lie down nor get up. +"Sarve thee damn well right!" said Mam Widger. + +"_I_ can't help o'it...." + +"_Yu can't help o'it!_" + +Between three and four in the morning, she went downstairs, relighted +the fire and made him and herself a cup o' tay. After that, not so very +long before daylight, they slept. + +To-day Tony is ill and subdued, if not repentant. He reckons he will do +the same again ("What chap don't, 'cept they mump-headed long-faced +beggars?"), but at present he turns from liquor; he always does for a +day and a half after 'going on the bust.' "Didn' ought never to drink +more'n one glass," he says; "no, n'eet none at all!" Seeing what it +would mean for the family if Tony took to drink, Mrs Widger is, and was +at the time, wonderfully calm and cheerful--how far from reliance in +herself, or from trust in Tony, is not plain. I asked her what she +would do if he became a drunkard and brought no money home. + +"Oh," she said carelessly, "I s'pose I should turn tu and get some work +to du and keep things going somehow." + +"Would you let him have any pocket-money?" + +"Ay, I 'spect I should--enough for his pint." + +There's not a shadow of doubt but she would do both. + + +15 + +Tony has always been a man for the girls; so much so, and so naively, +that whatever he might do would seem quite innocent; as innocent as the +love-play of animals. Along the Front, of an evening, he calls out, +"How be 'ee, my dear?" to any girl he chooses, and perhaps takes her +arm for a few steps. Given half a chance, he snatches a playful kiss. +They never seem to turn rusty with him. He has the primitive quality of +knocking their conventionality to bits at one blow. + +[Sidenote: _FLIRTATIONS_] + +Just before the Perkinses left, he turned out at five in the morning to +see if the high long tide was flowing up to the boats. At six he made +tea and went with it to bed again. When he came downstairs at eight +o'clock (in his pants, darning the seat of his trousers), Mrs Widger +and Mrs Perkins both had breakfasts frying on the fire. Mrs Widger, +very loud-voiced that morning, was packing the children off to school; +Mrs Perkins was bent over the pan, browning sausages. Tony crept up +behind her, seized her by the waist, and kissed her. + +"Oh, you naughty man!" said Mrs Perkins, who was married out of a +drapery establishment and has the drapery style of talking to +perfection. "If my dear hubby knew...." + +"Tell him!" retorted Tony. "I be ready for 'en. I feels lively this +morning. I'll gie 'ee another if yu'll darn thees yer trousers for me. +Thic Mam 'Idger there won't du nort. You wuden' think I'd had two +nights o'it, wude 'ee? I went to bed last night, an' then I got up, +five o'clock, and 'cause there weren't nort doing I went to bed again +an' had an hour or an hour an' a half's more sleep." + +"Oh, you sleepy man!" + +"I didn' want to sleep. I wanted the missis here to cuddle me, on'y her +'ouldn't. Her turned away from me that cold.... I went off to sleep. +An' when I woke up again, thinkin' her'd cuddle me then, her gave me a +kick an' got out bed. I never see'd ort like it. Her ain't what her +used to be, for all her ain't a bad li'l thing, thee's know." + +"G'out!" said Mrs Widger. "I be older--and wiser." + +"Don' know about that. I shall go into Plymouth an' git a nice li'l +girl there.... Oh, I've know'd plenty on 'em. All the li'l girls likes +ol' Tony." + +"I know they do," remarked Mrs Perkins sententiously, while Mrs Widger +laughed rather proudly. + +"Iss; us was to Plymouth once, an' a nice li'l girl wi' a white bow +roun' her neck came up an' spoke to me when I was a-looking into a shop +window, an' her said, 'I lives jest here,' an' I said, 'Do 'ee, my +dear? I'll be 'long in a minute....'" + +"Where was Mrs Widger then?" + +"Oh, her was 'bout ten yards in front." + +"Well?" + +"Iss; if her won't be nice to me when I wants her tu, I shall go into +Plymouth an' find out my li'l girl there...." + +"Garn then, yu fule! I can du wi'out 'ee. I shall hae thic divorce. +Thee's think, I s'pose, as I can't get 'long wi'out 'ee? Thee's much +mistaken!" + +"Well...." + +"Git 'long out wi' 'ee!" repeated Mrs Widger, laughing and very +proudly. "Git 'long out an' let me clear these yer breakfast things." + +"What have yu got for dinner, me dear? Then I'll remain with 'ee an' +not go out at all." + +"G'out!" + +Amid loud laughter, Tony snatched a kiss from both ladies, and pranced +out. + + +16 + +[Sidenote: _MRS WIDGER_] + +"'Tisn't no use to be jealous," Mrs Widger says. "I used to be a bit +taken that way once, but I ain't now, an' 'twuden' make no difference +if I was." Doubtless she is quite right, and she certainly succeeds in +never showing what jealousy she may feel when, for instance, she +catches sight of Tony strolling in through the Gut with his arm half +round another woman's waist, as his playful way is. If Tony speaks of +his first wife she does not, like most second wives, stop talking. If +she hears of a woman unhappily married, she usually dismisses the +affair with a "Well, her shuden't ha' married 'en: her must put up wi' +'en now her's got 'en." The goings-on of unmarried people do not easily +scandalise her. "I reckon," she says, "yu can du as yu like afore yu'm +married, but after that yu'm fixed." She is so confident of the +fastness of the marriage tie (it is, of course, much more indissoluble +for poor people who cannot travel, have no servants, and cannot afford +lawyers for divorce proceedings) that she can afford to give Tony +plenty of rope in small things. Her trust in his faithfulness is +absolute, and justified. She has him; he cannot get along without her; +she knows that. Her attitude is founded on experience and common-sense; +not on some abstract system of morality that never controlled men's +lives, and never will. + +When I used to look upon fishermen as picturesque common objects of the +seashore, I thought their womenfolk rather dreadful. Now, however, the +more I see of this household the more I admire Mrs Widger's management +of it. I know of few other women who could direct it better and with +less friction. Indeed, I am acquainted with no middle-class woman at +all who could direct any of these poor men's households as their own +wives so noisily and so cleverly do. Mrs Widger does not attempt to +gain her own way by sheer force and hardness, not even with the +children; she bends to every current; but she never breaks, and finally +prevails. Like most West-country people, she has more staying power +than visible energy. By going not straight over the hills, like a Roman +road, but round by the valleys and level paths, she arrives at her +journey's end just as quickly and with much less disturbance and +fatigue. She does nothing quite perfectly; neither cooking, mending, +cleaning nor child-rearing; but she does everything as well as is +practicable, as well as is advisable. Tony would often like things a +little better done, but if he had to do them they would be done a +little worse. Some people here greatly pride themselves on keeping +their homes spotlessly clean, and their front doors locked so that no +dirty boot shall soil the oilcloth in the passage. Mrs Widger says that +her house is for living in. Children run in and out of it, laughing and +shouting. + +In some respects, she and Tony remind one of a French bourgeois couple. +He has the sentiment, the expressed ideality, the sensitiveness. He +perceives a great deal, but perceives much of it vaguely. He seldom +makes up his mind--then unalterably. He is like the little man in +Blake's drawing, who stands at the foot of a long ladder reaching up to +the moon, and cries, "I want!" What he wants, he does not precisely +know. Summut or other. Mrs Widger, on the other hand, knows what she +wants very exactly; so exactly that she is content to bide her +opportunity. When they were married, Tony had neither boats nor gear. +He has them now. + +[Sidenote: _A STEADY HEAD_] + +How she keeps a steady head passes my understanding; at breakfast-time, +for example, when the boys are clamouring for their kettle-broth or +loudly demanding fish, or trying to sneak lumps of sugar; and the +girls, nearly late for school, are asking what she wants from the +butcher's or stores; and one or two of them require clean things, or +something darned, or have not washed their faces or combed out their +hair properly; and Tony's and my breakfasts are cooking; and the kettle +is boiling out or over; and Tony is asking her where he has left his +other guernsey, and everybody is talking nineteen to the dozen--and she +wants her own breakfast too. It is at such a moment that she displays +best her most characteristic gesture. + +Most people who work with a will, possess some gesture or movement +which is typical of, and sums up, the major part of their +activities--the gesture that sculptors and painters try to catch. To +lay out on home and family the earnings of a workman who is regularly +paid, calls for skill and care enough on the part of a wife who has no +reserve fund and must make the weekly accounts balance to within a few +ha'pence. But successfully to lay out, and to lay by, the earnings of a +man like Tony, whose family is large and whose money comes in with +extreme irregularity, requires a combination of forethought and +self-control which falls little short of genius. And it has to be done +on a cash basis, for debt would worry Tony out of his wits. The family +purse must necessarily be the centre, and the symbol, of Mrs Widger's +household activities; a matter to which she must give more thought than +to any other one thing. + +"Mabel, I want you to go out for me," she says. "Get me my purse." + +[Sidenote: _CHARACTERISTIC GESTURE_] + +Standing, as a rule, by the dresser, she receives the purse into her +hand, opens it meditatively, looks in, pokes a ringer in, tips the +purse and peers between the coins as they fall apart; takes one or two +out and replaces them as if they fitted into slots. Then with a +wide-armed gesture, curiously commanding and graceful, she hands out to +the child perhaps a ha'penny. "Get me a ha'porth o' new milk, quick!" + +The purse is put away. + +So striking is the little ceremony, so symbolic, so able to stop our +chatter while we look, that we have nicknamed Mam Widger _The Purse +Bearer_. + +That is the name for her--Purse Bearer. + + +17 + +Downstairs in the front room there are two or three photographs of +George, that he himself has sent home since that day he went off to the +Navy. The earliest shows him still boyish, sitting small, as it were, +and a little shy of his new uniform. In the latest, taken not long ago, +nor very long in point of time after the first, he is sitting bolt +upright, chest inflated, arms akimbo with a straight, level, almost +ferocious look in his eyes. He has apparently taken a measure of the +world outside Under Town, and is all the surer of his feet for having +stood up against greater odds and for having walked the slippery plank +of Navy regulations. "If you'm minded to run up against me," he seems +to be saying, "come and try; here I am." The two photographs suggest +the difference between a bird in winter and in the mating season. +George's uniform, in the later photograph, has become his spring +plumage. + +[Sidenote: _GEORGE HOME_] + +When he sent word that he was coming home on leave, I was prepared for +a great change in him, but scarcely for the new George. He used to be +so like a cat on a sunny wall; used to lie along the stern seat of the +_Moondaisy_ so lazy and content that only his ever-watchful eyes +held any expression. He was deeply sunburnt: scraggy in the neck; +strong and lissome, but not very smart. + +He is returned home no less strong and lissome, and exceedingly smart. +The sunburn is gone; indeed there's many a maiden would envy his +complexion; and his long stout neck, with the broadening bands of +muscle, would delight a sculptor. The alert expression, that used to be +more or less limited to his eyes, has spread, so to speak, over all his +face, over the whole of him and into all his movements. He is +organised; unified. In repose now, he would not be simply lazy; he +would be _being lazy_. His features, rather indeterminate of old, have +become curiously refined, almost delicate, almost supercilious (in the +pride of young strength), but not quite either. It is noticeable +generally that an orderly mental existence has great power to +regularise the features, and in so doing, to refine them. Hence perhaps +this refinement of feature in George; for if, in the effort to gain +promotion, he has been putting his heart into his work--the routine +work of his ship and the Naval barracks--it follows that his mental +existence must have been very orderly and regular. But how far the +total change in him is due to Navy discipline, and how far to his +arrival at mating time, one cannot say, neither probably could he. +Among working people nothing so smartens a young man and so quickly +sets him on his own feet as a little traffic with the maidens; +especially when he can't get his own way too easily. George, I gather, +is paying attention to two or three. + +Whereas his toilet used to consist of dragging on trousers, guernsey +and boots, and lacing up the last-named aboard his boat, if at all, it +is now a function delightful to witness as he stumps backwards and +forwards between the kitchen looking-glass and the scullery-sink. What +a washing and spluttering! what a boot-blacking and hair brushing! what +retouches and last glances into the glass! The cap comes off and is +replaced at a jauntier angle, a ribbon is tied again, the lanyard is +put just right, and George goes forth to a war that began before +battleships were thought of. One makes fun of his titivations, and +admires nevertheless. Pride o' life, I have heard it called. Hitching +one's wagon to a star is doubtless good; so is driving one's wagon +along mankind's track. Thank God we have still a deal of the monkey in +us. + +I should like to see how Master George would carry on the land campaign +if he had money to spare. That, however, he has not. The presents he +brought home for the whole family, as is customary, must have cost him +a good deal. He has had, too, a spell in the Naval barracks--which +means spending money on shore amusements instead of putting it by. And +as he has bought some civilian clothes on the instalment system, and +will have that to pay off, he cannot borrow much of his father or +mother. + +Being 'on his own' now, he does not, of course expect a supply of money +from his father, nor on the other hand does Tony try to force his +authority upon George. Whilst he was here, George met a few of his old +chums up in the Town, and about midnight he came home rather drunk. We +were all abed; he had to knock several times; and in the end Tony went +down to let him in. 'Twas a good opportunity for a quarrel that would +have wakened the whole Square. But Tony said nothing then. He saw +George safely to bed, and merely remarked next day in George's hearing, +that "'Tisn't gude to drink tu much if you can help o'it, specially +when yu'm young; besides, it costis tu much." George was very ashamed. + +[Sidenote: _MRS WIDGER'S DIPLOMACY_] + +Mrs Widger it was who had the row over George's spree, but not with +George, and owing to her clever diplomacy it was hardly a row at all. + +Mabel rushed into the house at breakfast-time. + +"Mother, is George come home?" + +"Course he is. What next?" + +"Well, Lottie Rousdon says as he come'd home last night an' yu an' Dad +wuden' let 'en in. Drunk's a handcart, falling about, her says he was." + +"Tis a lie!" began Mrs Widger loudly. Then she appeared to think of +something; her eyes widened, and she spoke quietly. + +"Who told yu thic tale?" + +"Why, May Rousdon jest as I was coming in now. Her stopped me an' asked +if what Lottie'd told her was true." + +"Yu go an' tell Lottie Rousdon that if she has a minute to spare when +she comes home this afternoon to clean herself [Lottie Rousdon is a day +servant], as mother'd like to see her. Don't yu"--this with rising +voice--"don't yu tell anything more'n that or I'll break your neck for +yu." + +Mabel rushed out full of importance. + +"The lying bitch!" remarked Mam Widger. + +Lottie Rousdon walked into the trap. She came in the early evening, +feathers flying, very innocent. She was in a strange house, not in the +Square or among her relatives. Mrs Widger was on her own ground. Both +went into the front room. + +"What for did yu--" we could not help hearing. + +"Oh, I didn't, Mrs Widger; I'm sure I didn't----" + +"Yu did!" + +"Mabel," called Mrs Widger. "Go'n ask May Rousdon to kindly step this +way." + +May Rousdon came. + +"Who told yu what yu told Mabel about George, this morning? Did _yu_ +make it up?" + +"'Twas Lottie told me, Mrs Widger." + +"There! if I didn't think.... Don't yu ever say such a wicked thing +again! Yu don' know what harm...." + +The parlour door was shut fast. A hubbub went on within. After a time, +Lottie, weeping, was led out of the house by her sister. + +"The lying bitch," Mrs Widger repeated. "I've a-give'd it to her. +Making up that tale so pat as if 'twas all true! That's the sort o' +thing they used to put about when Tony and me was first married, but I +fought 'em down, I did, an' I thought 'twas all stopped long ago. They +tried to make out as 'twas me drove George to sea. Nobody can't ever +say I haven't luked after Tony's first wife's children so well as I +have me own--but they _have_ said it, all the same, an' I've up an' +give'd it to 'em 'fore now. Whenever I used to correct the children, +they'd only to run out o' the house an' they cude always find someone +to listen to 'em and say as I was cruel to 'em and God knows what. One +time, when I wasn't very well, I felt I cuden' put up wi' it any +longer. But I did. An' here I be, same's ever. Pretty times us used to +have, I can tell yu, when we was first married an' some of 'em put my +blood up!" + +I understand that she cursed several--literally kicked one or two--out +of the house; but now when anybody is ill, or anything has to be done, +she is the first person to be sent for; and when George said goodbye to +her at the station, he wept. + + +18 + +[Sidenote: _IN THE BAR_] + +I was in the Alexandra bar this evening, drinking bitter ale. Apart +from the new saloon counter, it is an old-fashioned place, full of +wooden partitions and corners and draughts. The incandescent light was +flickering dimly in the draught that the sea-wind drove through the +window and the front door. Seated around the fireplace or against the +painted partitions, and standing about in groups, were fishermen in +guernseys, ex-fishermen, some bluejackets, and some solid-looking men +who were pensioners or sailors in mufti. A couple of repulsive +lodging-house keepers (they eat too much that falls from the lodgers' +tables) were talking local politics with a foxy-faced young tradesman +of the semi-professional sort. The barman, who had had enough to drink, +was thumb-fingered, loud-voiced, hastily slow. Sometimes the sound of a +heavier wave than usual broke through the buzz of conversation, and +sometimes, when the conversation dropped, wave after wave could be +heard sweeping the shingle along the beach. + +A party of vagrant minstrels came to the front-door steps. They played +a comic song, and the voices within rose in defiance of the music, so +that when it stopped suddenly, they were surprised into silence. + +Up through that silence welled the opening notes of Schubert's +_Serenade_. Nobody spoke. The barman took up a glass cheerily. "My +doctor ordered me to take a little when I feel I need it," he said; and +was _hushed_ down. Some edged towards the door, others sat back with +faces and pipes tilted up, and others gazed down at the floor. A +memory-struck, far-away look came into their eyes. Only the barman with +his glass, and the tradesman in his smart suit, seemed wholly +themselves. + +The _Serenade_ ceased. None spoke. The light gave a great flicker. +"What the bloody hell!" exclaimed John Widger. The day-dreamers awoke, +as if from a light sleep. An everyday look came quickly into their eyes +and each one shifted in his seat. Some even shook themselves like dogs. +A joke was made about the woman who came in to collect pence, and the +conversation rose till nothing of the sea's noise could be heard. + +I realised with a shock that in four days I shall not be here, and when +I left the bar, I forgot entirely to say _Good-night_. + +[Sidenote: _A GLIMPSE_] + +It was as if, for the moment, we had all been very intimate; as if we +had all gone an adventure together and had peeped over the edge of the +world. + + + + +VIII + + + SALISBURY, + _January_. + + +1 + +[Sidenote: _CONTRASTS_] + +Chilliness--a social and emotional chilliness that can with difficulty +be defined or nailed down to any cause--is, above and below all, what +one feels on returning from a poor man's house into middle-class +surroundings. It is not unlike that chill with which certain forms of +metropolitan hospitality strike a countryman. He meets a London friend, +a former fellow-townsman, perhaps, who has migrated to London and whom +he has not seen for a year or two. "Glad to see you," says the +Londoner. "You must call on my wife before you go back. Her day is +Wednesday." Or, "You must come to dinner one evening. When are you +free? Next Tuesday? or Friday?" If the hospitality had begun forthwith, +and the countryman had been haled off, country fashion, to the very +next pot-luck meal, he would have had a pleasant adventure. It would +have been like old times. The former glow of friendship would have more +than revived. But the calculated invitation for a future date, the idea +that the countryman will like to call for a twenty minutes' chat on +generalities and a couple of cups of bad afternoon tea.... Though he +may understand that a multiplicity of engagements in London renders +this sort of thing convenient, he none the less feels a chill when it +is applied to himself, and usually cares little whether he go or not. +He becomes conscious of the desire to save trouble, which is at the +bottom of such calculations. Had the Londoner revisited the country, he +would have found old friends ready to upset all their arrangements for +the sake of entertaining him. The London hospitality is the 'better +done,' but country hospitality is warmer. Middle-class life runs +smoother than the poor man's, it is more arranged and in many ways +'better done,' and it is chillier precisely because, for smooth +running, the warmer human impulses, both good and bad, must be +repressed. 'Something with a little love and a little murder' in it, +was what the illiterate old woman wanted to learn to read. It is what +we all want in our hearts, much more than smooth running and +impenetrable uniform politeness. + +Down at Seacombe we warm our hands, so to speak, at the fire of life; +hunger lurks outside, and the fire is dusty and needs looking after; +but it glows, and we sit together round it. Here at Salisbury, +throughout the social house, we have an installation of hot-water +pipes; they may be hygienic (which is doubtful), and they are little +trouble to keep going; but they don't glow. Give me the warmth that +glows, and let me get near the heart of it. + +Voices are often raised in Under Town and quarrels are not infrequent, +but the underlying affections are seldom doubted, and when they do rise +to the surface, there they are, visible, unashamed. 'Each for himself, +and devil take the hindmost,' is more admired in theory than followed +in practice. 'Each for himself and the Almighty for us all,' is Tony's +way of putting it. The difference lies there. + +My acquaintances here are well off for the necessities of life. No one +is likely to starve next week. Nevertheless, they are full of worry, +and by restraining their expressions of worry so as not to become +intolerable to the other worriers, they make themselves the more lonely +and increase their panic of mind. They are afraid of life. + +At Seacombe, though there were not a fortnight's money in the house, we +lived merrily on what we had. In Tony's "Summut 'll sure to turn up if +yu be ready an' tries to oblige" there is more than philosophy; there +is race tradition, the experience of generations. The Fates are +treacherous; therefore, of course, they like to be trusted, and the +gifts they reserve for those that trust them are retrospective. + +[Sidenote: _INSTANCES_] + +All of us at Tony's wanted many things--a pension, enough to live on, +work, a piano, or only 'jam zide plaate'--God knows what we didn't +want! But the things that men haven't, and want, unite them more than +those they have. _I want_ is life's steam-gauge; the measure of its +energy. It is the ground-bass of love, however transcendentalised, and +whether it give birth to children or ideas. _I have_ is stagnant. And +_I am afraid_ is the beginning of decay. + +It is still _I want_, rather than _I am afraid_, that spurs the poor +man on. + + +2 + +For his first marriage and towards setting up house, Tony succeeded in +saving twenty shillings. He gave it to his mother in gold to keep +safely for him, and the day before the wedding, he asked for it. "Yu +knows we an't got no bloody sovereigns," said his father. It had all +been spent in food and clothes for the younger children. So Tony went +to sea that night and earned five shillings. A shilling of that too he +gave to his mother; then started off on foot for the village where his +girl was living and awaiting him. She had a little saved up: he knew +that, though he feared it might have gone like his. They were married, +however; they fed, rejoiced, and joked; and 'for to du the thing proper +like,' they hired a trap to drive them home. With what money was left +they embarked on married life, and their children made no unreasonable +delay about coming. "Aye!" says Tony, "I'd du the same again--though +'twas hard times often." + +Before I left Seacombe I asked a fisherman's wife, who was expecting +her sixth or seventh child, whether she had enough money in hand to go +through with it all; for I knew that her husband was unlikely to earn +anything just then. "I have," she said, "an' p'raps I an't. It all +depends. If everything goes all right, I've got enough to last out, but +if I be so ill as I was wi' the last one, what us lost, then I an't. +Howsbe-ever, I don't want nort now. Us'll see how it turns out." She +went on setting her house in order, preparing baby linen and making +ready to 'go up over,' with perfect courage and tranquillity. When one +thinks of the average educated woman's fear of childbed, although she +can have doctors, nurses, anaesthetics and every other alleviation, the +contrast is very great, more especially as the fisherman's wife had +good reason to anticipate much pain and danger, in addition to the +possibility of her money giving out. + +Those are not extraordinary instances, chosen to show how courageous +people can be sometimes; on the contrary, they are quite ordinary +illustrations of a general attitude among the poor towards life. To +express it in terms of a theory which in one form or another is +accepted by nearly all thinkers--the poor have not only the _Will to +Live_, they have the _Courage to Live_. + +[Sidenote: _THE COURAGE TO LIVE_] + +On the whole, they possess the _Courage to Live_ much more than any +other class. And they need it much more. The industrious middle-class +man, the commercial or professional man, works with a reasonable +expectation of ending his days in comfort. He would hardly work +without. But the poor man's reasonable expectation is the workhouse, or +some almost equally galling kind of dependency. The former may count +himself very unlucky if after a life of work he comes to destitution; +the latter is lucky if he escapes it. Yet the poor man works on, and is +of at least as good cheer as the other one. If he can rub along, he is +even happy. He is, I think, the happier of the two. + +The more intimately one lives among the poor, the more one admires +their amazing talent for happiness in spite of privation, and their +magnificent courage in the face of uncertainty; and the more also one +sees that these qualities have been called into being, or kept alive, +by uncertainty and thriftlessness. Thrift, indeed, may easily be an +evil rather than good. From a middle-class standpoint, it is an +admirable virtue to recommend to the poor. It helps to keep them off +the rates. But for its proper exercise, thrift requires a special +training and tradition. And from the standpoint of the essential, as +opposed to the material, welfare of the poor, it can easily be +over-valued. Extreme thrift, like extreme cleanliness, has often a +singularly dehumanising effect. It hardens the nature of its votaries, +just as gaining what they have not earned most frequently makes men +flabby. Thrift, as highly recommended, leads the poor man into the +spiritual squalor of the lower middle-class. It is all right as a means +of living, but lamentable as an end of life. If a penny saved is a +penny earned, then a penny earned by work is worth twopence. + +_The Courage to Live_ is the blossom of the _Will to Live_--a flower +far less readily grown than withered. It might be argued that since +apprehensiveness implies foresight, the poor man's _Courage to Live_ +is simply his lack of forethought. In part, no doubt, it is that. But +he does think, slowly and tenaciously, as a cuttlefish grips. He +foresees pretty plainly the workhouse; and he has the courage to face +its probability, and to go ahead nevertheless. His reading of life is +in some ways very broad, his foothold very firm; for it is founded +closely on actual experience of the primary realities. He looks +backwards as well as forwards; his fondness and memory for anecdote is +evidence of how he dwells on the past; instead of comparing an +occurrence with something in a book, he recalls a similar thing that +happened to So-and-so, so many years ago, you mind.... He knows vaguely +(and it is our vaguer knowledge which shapes our lives) that only by a +succession of miracles a long series of hair's-breadth escapes and +lucky chances, does he stand at any moment where he is; and he doesn't +see why miracles should suddenly come to an end. Hence his active +fatalism, as opposed to the passive Eastern variety. In Tony's opinion, +"'Tis better to be lucky than rich." I have never heard him say that +fortune favours the brave. He assumes it. + + +3 + +[Sidenote: _INTELLECTUAL TYRANNIES_] + +As one grows more democratic in feeling, as one's faith in the people +receives shock after shock, yet on the whole brightens--so does one's +mistrust of the so-called democratic programmes increase. One becomes +at once more dissatisfied and less, more reckless and much more +cautious. One sees so plainly that the three or four political parties +by no means exhaust the political possibilities. The poor, though +indeed they have the franchise, remain little more than pawns in the +political game. They have to vote for somebody, and nobody is prepared +to allow them much without a full return in money or domination. They +pay in practice for what theoretically is only their due. Justice for +them is mainly bills of costs. The political fight lies still between +their masters and would-be masters; not so much now, perhaps, between +different factions of property-owners as between the property-owners +and the intellectuals. Out of the frying-pan into the fire seems the +likely course; for the intellectuals, if they have the chance, enslave +the whole man; they are logical and ruthless. The worst tyrannies have +been priestly tyrannies, whether of Christians, Brahmins or negro +witch-doctors; and those priests were the intellectuals of their time. +I wonder when we shall have a party of intellectuals content to find +out the people's ideals and to serve them faithfully, instead of trying +to foist their own ideals upon the people. + +Law-makers, however, will probably continue to work for the supposed +benefit of the people rather than on the people's behalf; and equally, +the supposed welfare of the people will continue to be the handiest +political weapon; for the property-owning, articulate classes are +better able to prevent themselves being played with. To those two facts +one's political principles must be adjusted. The articulate classes, +moreover, are actually so little acquainted with the inner life of the +poor that there is no groundwork of general knowledge upon which to +base conclusions, and it is impossible to do more than speak from one's +own personal experience. I don't mind confessing that, though I should +prefer justice all round, yet, if injustice is to be done--as done it +must be no doubt--I had rather the poor were not the sufferers. There +is no reason to believe that present conditions cannot be bettered--to +believe, with Dr Pangloss, _que tout est au mieux dans ce meilleur +des mondes possibles_. I have found that to grow acquainted with the +class that is the chief object of social legislation is to see more +plainly the room for improvement, and also to see how much better, how +much sounder, that class is than it appeared to be from the outside: +how much might be gained, of material advantage especially, and at the +same time how much there is to be lost of those qualities of character +which have been acquired through long training and by infinite +sacrifice. To learn to care for the poor, for their own sake, is to +fear for them nothing so much as slap-dash, short-sighted social +legislation. + +[Sidenote: _THE WILL TO LIVE_] + +The man matters more than his circumstances. The poor man's _Courage to +Live_ is his most valuable distinctive quality. Most of his finest +virtues spring therefrom. Any material progress which tends to diminish +his _Courage to Live_, or to reduce it to mere _Will to Live_, must +prove in the long run to his and to the nation's disadvantage. And the +_Courage to Live_, like other virtues, diminishes with lack of +exercise. Therefore every material advance should provide for the +continued, for an even greater, exercise and need of the _Courage to +Live_. If not, then the material advance is best done without. + +That is the main constructive conclusion to be drawn. Somewhat akin to +it is another conclusion of a more critical nature. + +In Nietzsche's _Beyond Good and Evil_ there is an apophthegm to the +effect that, "Insanity in individuals is something rare--but in groups, +parties, nations, and epochs it is the rule." And whilst, on the one +hand mental specialists have been extending the boundaries of insanity +to the point of justifying the popular adage that everyone is a bit +mad, they have, on the other hand, tended to narrow down the difference +between sanity and its reverse until it has become almost entirely a +question of mental inhibition, or self-control. + + The highest aim of Mental Hygiene should be to increase the power + of mental inhibition amongst all men and women. Control is the + basis of all law and the cement of every social system among men + and women, without which it would go to pieces.... _Sufficient + power of self-control should be the essence and test of + sanity._[20] + + [20] "The Hygiene of Mind," by T. S. Clouston, M.D., + F.R.S.E., (London, 1906). Without an extension which Dr + Clouston provides, though not in so many words, the + definition I have italicized is psychologically a little + superficial. Mental inhibition, generally, needs dividing + into self-control and, say, auto-control. Where one man may + _self-control_ himself by an effort of will, another man, + in the same predicament, might _auto-control_ himself + instinctively, without a conscious effort of will. Which is + the saner, and likelier to remain so, under ordinary + circumstances and under extraordinary circumstances, would be + most difficult to determine. Many people are only sane in + action because they know that they are insane in impulse, and + take measures accordingly. They keep a sane front to the + world by legislating pretty sternly for themselves. + +[Sidenote: _SOCIAL HYGIENE_] + +It is too gratuitously assumed by law-makers (_i.e._ agitators for +legislation as well as legislators) that the poor man is woefully +deficient in inhibition and must be legislated for at every turn. +Because, for instance, he furnishes the police courts with the +majority of 'drunks and disorderlies,' he is treated as a born +drunkard, to be sedulously protected against himself, regardless of +such facts as (1) there is more of him to get drunk, (2) he prefers +'going on the bust' to the more insidious dram-drinking and drugging, +(3) he has more cause to get drunk, (4) he gets drunk publicly, (5) +tied-house beer and cheap liquors stimulate to disorderliness more +than good liquor. The truth is that the poor have a great deal of +self-restraint, quite as much probably as their law-makers; but it is +exercised in different directions and, possibly, is somewhat frittered +away in small occasions. The poor man has so much more bark than bite. +He fails to restrain his cuss-words for example--but then cuss-words +were invented to impress fools. There is much in his life that would +madden his law-makers, and _vice versa_. If control is the cement of +every social system and if it is the highest aim of mental hygiene, it +follows that control should be the highest aim of legislation and +custom, which together make up social hygiene. And--always remembering +that control is of all virtues the one which strengthens with use and +withers with disuse--every piece of new legislation should be most +carefully examined as to its probable effect on the self-control of +the people. Control, in short should be the paramount criterion of new +legislation. A proximate advantage, unless it be a matter of life and +death, is too dearly purchased by an ultimate diminution of +self-control. + + +4 + +Since the Industrial Revolution and rise of the press, the middle-class +has become more and more the real law-maker. The poor have voted +legislators into power; the upper class in the main has formally made +the laws; but the engineering of legislation has been, and is, the work +of the middle class. And the amusing and pathetic thing is that the +middle class has used its power to try to make other classes like +itself. That it has succeeded so badly is largely due to the fact that +the poor man is not simply an undeveloped middle-class man. The +children at Seacombe showed true childish penetration in treating a +_gentry-boy_ as an animal of another species: the poor and the middle +class are different in kind as well as in degree. (More different +perhaps than the poor and the aristocrat). Their civilizations are not +two stages of the same civilization, but two civilizations, two +traditions, which have grown up concurrently, though not of course +without considerable intermingling. To turn a typical poor man into a +typical middle-class man is not only to develop him in some respects, +and do the opposite in others; it is radically to alter him. The +civilization of the poor may be more backward materially, but it +contains the nucleus of a finer civilization than that of the middle +class. + +[Sidenote: _TWO CIVILIZATIONS_] + +The two classes possess widely dissimilar outlooks. Their morale is +different. Their ethics are different.[21] Middle class people +frequently make a huge unnecessary outcry, and demand instant +unnecessary legislation because they find among the poor conditions +which would be intolerable to themselves but are by no means so to the +poor. And again, the benevolent frequently accuse the poor of great +ingratitude because, at some expense probably, they have pressed upon +the poor what they themselves would like, but what the poor neither +want nor are thankful for. The educated can sometimes enter fully, and +even reasonably, into the sorrows of the uneducated, but it is seldom +indeed that they can enter into their joys and consolations. + + [21] "The more one sees of the poor in their own homes, the more + one becomes convinced that their ethical views, taken as a whole, + can be more justly described as different from those of the upper + classes than as better or worse." ("The Next Street but One." By + M. Loane. London, 1907.) + +Broadly speaking, the middle-class is distinguished by the utilitarian +virtues; the virtues, that is, which are means to an end; the +profitable, discreet, expedient virtues: whereas the poor prefer what +Maeterlinck calls 'the great useless virtues'--useless because they +bring no apparent immediate profit, and great because by faith or +deeply-rooted instinct we still believe them of more account than all +the utilitarian virtues put together.[22] + + [22] "When one begins to know the poor intimately, visiting the + same houses time after time, and throughout periods of as long as + eight or ten years, one becomes gradually convinced that in the + real essentials of morality, they are, as a whole, far more + advanced than is generally believed, but they range the list of + virtues in a different order from that commonly adopted by the + more educated classes. Generosity ranks far before justice, + sympathy before truth, love before chastity, a pliant and + obliging disposition before a rigidly honest one. In brief, the + less admixture of intellect required for the practice of any + virtue, the higher it stands in popular estimation." ("From their + Point of View." By M. Loane. London, 1908.) + + It is difficult to see on what grounds Miss Loane implies--if she + does mean to imply--that the poor would do well to exchange their + own order of the virtues for the other order. Christianity + certainly affords no such grounds, nor does any other philosophy + or religion, except utilitarianism perhaps. + +The poor, one comes to believe firmly, if not interfered with by those +who happen to be in power, are quite capable of fighting out their own +salvation. A clear ring is what they want--the opportunity for their +'something in them tending to good' to develop on its own lines. (When +I say 'a clear ring' I do not mean that one side should have seconds +and towels provided and that the other side should be left with +neither.) That their culture, so developed, will be different from our +present middle-class culture, is certain; that it will be superior is +probable. The middle class is in decay, for its reproductive instincts +are losing their effective intensity, and it is afraid of having +children; its culture, that it grafted on the old aristocratic stem, +must decay with it. When the culture derived from the lower classes is +ready to be grafted in its turn upon the old stem it is possible that +mankind's progress will go backwards a little to find its footing, and +will then take one of its great jumps forward. + + +5 + +[Sidenote: _THE SOCIO-POLITICAL PROBLEM_] + +The socio-political problem turns out, on ultimate analysis, to be a +wide restatement of the old theological Problem of Pain. Suffering does +not necessarily make a fine character, but the characters that we +recognise as fine could not, apparently, have been so without +suffering. It is possible to say, "I have suffered, and though I am +scarred and seared, yet I know that on the whole I am the better for +that suffering. I do not now wish that I had not had that suffering. I +even desire that those I love shall suffer so much as they can bear, +that their conquest may be the greater, their joys the fuller, and +their life the more intense." Nevertheless, the very next moment, the +same man will try by every means possible to avoid suffering for +himself and for those he loves. That is the dualism which dogs humanity +in the mass no less than in the individual. That lies at the core of +domestic politics. But it may be that the part of our nature which +finds reason to be grateful for past suffering is higher than that part +which seeks to avoid it in the future. + +Waste of the benefits of suffering is waste indeed. + + + + +IX + + + SEACOMBE, + _December_. + + +1 + +We hired a drosky--one of the little light landaus that they use with a +single horse in this hilly district--and thus we came down from the +station. On the box were the coachman (grinning), a cabin trunk, a +portmanteau, a gaping gladstone bag, and a rug packed with sweaters and +boots. On the front seat, a large parcel of books, a typewriter, a +dispatch case, a grubby moon-faced little friend of Tommy's, Tommy +himself, and Jimmy. On the back seat, Straighty, Dane and myself. The +small boy stood up on the seat, and Dane squatting on his haunches, +overtopped us all. + +Down the hill we drove, swerving, wobbling, laughing--a May party in +leafless winter. Dane, in his efforts to lick the children's faces, +tumbled off his perch. We helped him back to his seat amid a chorus of +happy screams. The grubby boy was just too astonished to cry, just too +proud of travelling in a carriage. He screwed up his face--and +unscrewed it again. Every now and then Tommy sat back as far as he +could from the disorder, the collection of jerking arms and legs, in +order to adjust the Plymouth spectacles, of which he is so proud, on +his small pug nose. As we passed the cross-roads, Straighty was trying +to snatch a kiss. While we drove along the Front, the children waved +their hands over the sides of the drosky, and shouted with delight. +'Twas a Bacchanal with laughter for wine. The Square turned out to +witness our arrival. "Her's come!" the kiddies cried. Dane leapt out +first, found a rabbit's head and bolted it whole. The rest of us +scrambled out. The luggage was piled up in the passage. Hastening in +his stockinged feet (he had been putting away an hour) to say that he +was on the point of coming up to station, Tony bruised a toe and barked +a shin. But it was no time to be savage. I wonder where else the two +shillings I paid for the drosky would have purchased so much delight. +Or rather, the delight was in ourselves, in the children; the two +shillings served only to unlock it. + +[Sidenote: _CHILDREN_] + +What precisely there is of difference between these children and those +of the middle and upper classes has always puzzled me. That there is a +difference I feel certain. A few years ago, when I had so much to do +with the boys and girls of a high school, they liked me pretty well, I +think, and trusted me, but they did not take to me, nor I very greatly +to them. They went about their business, and I about mine. If I invited +them for a walk, they came gladly, not because it was a walk with me, +but because I knew of interesting muddy places, and where to find +strange things. Their manners to me were always good: good manners +smoothed our intercourse. But in no sense were our lives interwoven. We +were side-shows, the one to the other. I was content that it should be +so, and they were too. + +Here, on the other hand, my difficulty is to get rid of the children +when I wish to go out by myself. They follow me out to the Front, and +meet me there when I return, running towards me with shouting and arms +upraised, tumbling over their own toes, and taking me home as if I were +a huge pet dog of theirs. "Where be yu going?" they ask, and, "Where yu +been?" Jimmy regards me as a fixture. "When yu goes away for two or +dree days," he says, "I'll write to 'ee, like Dad du." I cross the +Square, and some child, lolling over the board across a doorway, laughs +to me shrilly and waves its arms. If by taking thought, I could send +such a glow to the hearts of those I love, as that child, without +thinking, sends to mine.... But I cannot. I can only wave a hand back +to the child, and be thankful and full-hearted. Often enough I wish I +could have a piano and find out whether my fingers will still play +Chopin, Beethoven, and Bach; often I hanker after a sight of a certain +picture or a certain statue in the Louvre or Luxembourg, for a concert, +a theatre, a right-down good argument on some intellectual point, or +for the books I want to read and never shall. Yet, all in all, I am +never sorry for long. This children's babble and laughter, these +simple, commonplace, wonderful affections, are a hundred times worth +everything I miss. + +It is not that I buy the children bananas or give them an infrequent +ha'penny. When bananas and ha'pence are scarce, their love is no less. +It is not that I am always good-tempered and jolly. Sometimes I snap +unmercifully, so that they look at me with scared, inquiring eyes. It +is not that they are always well-behaved. Frequently they are very +naughty indeed. The causes of our sympathy lie deeper. + +They are more naive than the children who are in process of being +well-educated; more independent and also more dependent. They feel more +keenly any separation from those they love; they cry lustily if their +mother disappears only for an hour or two; and nevertheless they can +fend for themselves out and about as children more carefully nurtured +could never do. Less able to travel by themselves, they do travel +alone, and in the end quite as successfully. They make more mistakes +and retrieve them better. Affection with them more rapidly and frankly +translates itself into action. They laugh quickly, cry quickly, swear +quickly. "Yu'm a fule!" they rap out without a moment's hesitation; and +I suppose I am, else they wouldn't want to say so. Perhaps I overvalue +the physical manifestations of love, but if a child will take my hand, +or climb upon my knee, or kiss me unawares, then to certainty of its +affection is added a greater contentment and a deeper faith. The peace +of a child that sleeps upon one's shoulder, is given also to oneself. +The appurtenances of love mean much to me; nearness, warmth, caresses. +But I cannot make the advances; I was bred in a different school where, +though frankness was encouraged, _naivete_ was repressed; and I am the +more grateful to these children for taking me in hand--for being able +to do so. + +[Sidenote: _MANNERS_] + +Tommy has returned from the Plymouth Eye Infirmary much quietened down +in many respects and, as most people would say, much better mannered. +He is neater and a better listener to conversation. He puts his shoes +under the table, does not throw them. But he has brought back also some +of the nurses' exclamations of surprise--"Oh, I say!" "Not I!" "You +don't say so!" "What idiocy!" and the like. No doubt those expressions +sounded quite proper among the nurses, but on Tommy's lips they seem +curiously more vulgar than his natural and rougher expletives. It is, +besides, as if one were eavesdropping outside the nurses' common room. + +Much of the charm of these children, and of the grown-ups too, lies in +the fact that, apart from a few points on which etiquette is very +strict, they have no manners. I don't mean that they are bad-mannered; +quite the contrary; what I mean is that their manners are not codified. +Having no rules for behaviour under various circumstances, they must on +each occasion act according to their kindliness and desire to please, +or the reverse. They must go back to the first principles of manners. +What they are, that they appear. What they feel at the moment, that +they show. The kind man or child is kindly; the brutal or spiteful by +nature are brutal or spiteful in manner. Elsewhere, among people of +breeding, manners make the man--and hide him. Here, the man makes his +own manners, and in so doing still further reveals himself. + +I have known a professional man who was rather well-spoken of for his +good manners, fail lamentably so soon as he found himself in +surroundings not his own. His code of manners did not apply there, and +outside his code he had no manners. He was excessively rude. He showed +at once that his customary good manners were founded on rules well +learnt, and not on any real consideration for other people's feelings. +The incredible impertinence of clergymen and district visitors +furnishes plenty of cases in point. Their manners, no doubt, are pretty +good among themselves. Yet it is a common saying here, "What chake they +gentry've got!" A 'district lady' entered Mrs Stidson's cottage without +knock or warning, just when Mrs Stidson was cleaning up and wanted no +visitors of any sort. "What's the matter with your eye?" asked the +district lady. Mrs Stidson refused to answer. ("Untidy, intractable +woman!") But a neighbour upspoke and said, "Tis her husband, mam, as +have give'd her a black eye." At which the district lady exclaimed, "My +good woman, why don't you leave him. You _ought_ to leave him--at +once!" Mrs Stidson has a number of young children. + +[Sidenote: _TONY'S FOOT IN IT_] + +It might have been expected, on the other hand, when Tony and myself +went on holiday up-country, stayed at a largish much-upholstered hotel, +and dined out several times as he had never done before, that he would +have been like a fish out of water, very awkward, and would have +committed a number of bad _faux pas_. Nothing of the sort. He was +nervous, certainly, and the numerous knives, forks and glasses somewhat +confused him at first. But Tony's good manners are not codified. He is +sensitive, kindly, desirous of pleasing, quick to observe. On that +basis, he invented for himself, according to the occasion, the manners +he had not been taught. At the same time he remained himself. And he +was a complete success. Nobody had any reason to blush on Tony's +behalf. Except once; when he remarked to some ladies after dinner that +he found Londoners very nice and free-like; that a pretty young lady +had stopped him in the Strand the evening before, and had called him +Percy; that he hadn't had time to tell her she'd made a mistake, and +that, in fact, he might have knowed her tu Seacombe, only he didn't +recollect. + +There was a bad pause. + +Tony doesn't think ill of anybody without cause. _Honi soit qui mal y +pense_ might very well be _his_ motto. + + +2 + +News has come along from Plymouth that the boats there have fallen in +with large shoals of herring. The air here has since been charged with +excitement--the excitement of men who earn their livelihood by gambling +with the sea. The drifters have fitted out. Most of the boats are up +over--lying on the sea wall--but a few days ago many busy blue men slid +the big brown drifters down their shoots to the beach. Looking along, +one saw a couple of men standing in each drifter and, with the +leisurely haste of seamen, drawing in their nets. It gave a peculiar +savour, a hopeful animation, to the blank wintry sea. It was as if the +spring had come to us human beings prematurely, before it was ready to +seize on nature. + +[Sidenote: _ON THE CLIFFS_] + +Yesterday afternoon I felt too unwell to lend a hand in shoving off the +boats. So I climbed to the top of the East Cliff. The air was cool and +still--so still that all the Seacombe smoke hung in the valley and +drifted slowly to seawards and faded there. While the sun was setting +behind a bank of sulky dull clouds, some woolpacks, faintly outlined in +white against the grey, rose almost imperceptibly in the western sky. +Everything, the sea itself, seemed very dry. Nothing moved on the +cliffs, except some small birds which flittered homelessly among the +black and twisted burnt gorse. They were very tiny and pitiful against, +or indeed amid, the solemn gathering of the great slow clouds. On +looking down from the edge of the cliff, a slight mistiness of the air +gave one the impression that there was, lying level above the sea, a +sheet of glass that dulled the sound of the water yet allowed one to +discern every half-formed ripple, and even the purple of the rocks +beneath. Five hundred feet below and a quarter of a mile out, were +three boats. They also, like the birds, seemed pitifully tiny. But, +unlike the birds, they did not seem purposeless. It was evident they +were moving, though one could not see rowers, oars, or splashes, for +they progressed in short jumps and above the dulled rattle of a billow +breaking on the pebbles, the faint click-thud of oars between +thole-pins was plainly audible. I had an odd fancy that the six men +were rowing through immensity, into eternity, to meet God; and that +they would so continue rowing, eternally. + +This morning, very early, the crackle of burning wood in the kitchen +fireplace awoke me. Then I heard the sea roaring; then Tony's bare feet +on the stairs. "Wind's backed an' come on to blow," he said. "They've +a-had to hard up an' urn for it. Two on 'em's in, an' one have a-losted +two nets. I told 'em 'twasn't vitty when they shoved off. 'Tis blowing +hard. I be going out along to see w'er t'other on 'em's in eet." + +The sea was angry, the moon obscure. The dead-asleep town stood up +motionless before the madly-living breakers. It seemed as if a horrible +fight was in progress; loud rage and dumb treachery face to face in the +semi-darkness; and between the livelong combatants, little men ran to +and fro, peering out to sea. + +Presently the third boat ran ashore. Its bellied sail hid everything +from us who waited at the water's edge. It was hoisted on a high wave, +and cast on land. The sea did not want it then. The sea spewed it up. +The sea can afford to wait, even until the clean bright little town is +a ruin on a salt marsh. + +Returning in house, we made hot tea, and laughed. + + +3 + +We had, as it were, said _Good-Night_ to the town, though it was only +half-past three in the afternoon. Most lazy we must have looked as we +sailed off to the fishing ground with a light fair wind, NNW. John's +young muscular frame was leaning against the mainmast, like a +magnificent statue dressed for the moment in fishermen's rig. Tony aft +was lounging across the tiller. He fits the tiller, for he is older and +bent and his eyes are deeply crowsfooted with watching. Both of them +showed the same splendid contrast of navy-blue jerseys against sea eyes +and spray-stung red and russet skins. I was lying full length along the +midship thwart. We lopped along lazily, about three knots to the hour. + +[Sidenote: _HERRING DRIFTING_] + +As we lounged and smoked, each of us sang a different song, more or +less in tune. It sounded not unmelodious upon the large waters. At +intervals we asked one another where the 'gert bodies of herrings' had +gone off to. Eastwards, westwards, to the offing, or down to the bottom +to spawn? + +So near the land we were, yet so far from it in feeling. There, to the +NE. was the little town, sunlit and brilliantly white, with the church +tower rising in the middle and the heather-topped cloud-capped hills +behind. There around the bay, were the red cliffs, crossed by deep +shadows and splotched with dark green bushes. The land was there. We +were to sea. The water, which barely gurgled beneath the bows of the +drifter, was rushing up the beaches under the cliffs with a +myriad-sounding rattle. Gulls, bright pearly white or black as +cormorants, according as the light struck them, were our only +companions. The little craft our kingdom was--twenty-two foot long by +eight in the beam,--and a pretty pickle of a kingdom! + +Mixed up together in the stern were spare cork buoys, rope ends, sacks +of ballast and Tony. Midships were the piled up nets and buoys. For'ard +were more ballast bags and rope ends, some cordage, old clothes, sacks, +paper bags of supper, four bottles of cold tea, two of paraffin oil and +one of water, the riding lamp and a very old fish-box, half full of +pebbles, for cooking on. All over the boat were herring scales and +smelly blobs of roe. It's sometime now since the old craft was scraped +and painted. + +But the golden light of the sunset gilded everything, and the probable +catch was what concerned us. + +We chose our berth among the other drifters that were on the ground. We +shot two hundred and forty fathom of net with a swishing plash of the +yarn and a smack-smack-splutter of the buoys. We had our supper of +sandwiches and tatie-cake and hotted-up tea. + +"Can 'ee smell ort?" asked John sniffing out over the bows. + +"Herring!" said I. "I can smell 'em plainly." + +"Then there's fish about." + +Tony however remarked the absence of birds, and declared that the water +didn't look so fishy as when they had their last big haul. "They +herrings be gone east," he repeated. + +"G'out! What did 'ee come west for then? I told yu to du as yu was +minded, an' yu did, didn' 'ee? Us'll haul up in a couple o' hours an' +see w'er us got any." + +We didn't turn in. We piled on clothes and stayed drinking, smoking, +chatting, singing--a boat-full of life swinging gently to the nets in +an immense dark silence, an immense sea-whisper. + +[Sidenote: _HAULING IN THE NETS_] + +About nine o'clock we hauled in for not more than nine dozen of fish. +The sea-fire glimmered on the rising net, glittered in the boat, and +then, with an almost painful suddenness, snuffed out. "They be so full +as eggs," said John every minute or two, holding out fish to Tony, who +felt them and answered, "Iss, they'm no scanters [spawned or undersized +fish]. _They_ bain't here alone." + +Nets inboard, we rowed a little east of another boat, to shoot a second +time. John said, "Hoist the sail, can't 'ee." Tony said, "What's the +need?" + +Before eleven we were foul of the other boat's nets and had again to +haul in. Tony puffed and panted with the double weight; John +disentangled the mesh and swore. + +"If we'd a-hoisted the sail..." he grumbled. + +"There wasn't no need if we'd a-pulled a bit farther." + +"What's the good o' pulling yer arms out?" + +"I knowed where to go, on'y yu said we was far enough." + +"No I didn't!" + +"S'thee think I don' know where to shute a fleet o' nets?" + +"Well, we'm foul, anyhow." + +"I was herring drifting afore yu was born. I knows well enough." + +"Why don' 'ee hae yer own way then, if yu knows. Yu'm s'posed to be +skipper here." + +"If I'd had me own way...." + +"Hould thy bloody row, casn'!" + +It sounded like murder gathering up; but Tony calls it their brotherly +love-talk, and they are no worse friends for it all. The better the +catch, the more exciting the work, and the livelier the love-talk. They +say, therefore, that it brings luck to a boat. + +A third time we shot nets, safely to the east of every other craft. +Then John with his legs in a sack and a fearnought jacket round him, +snored in the cutty, whilst Tony nodded sleepily outside. The sky +eastwards had already in it the weird whitish light of the coming moon. +The risen wind was piping out from land. I could see the bobbing lights +of the other drifters to westward, and the glint of the Seacombe lamps +on the water. Every now and then a broken wave came up to the boat with +a confidential hiss. I had a constant impression that out of the dark +flood some great voice was going to speak to me--speak quite softly. + +"Shall us hot some more tea?" said Tony. "My feet be dead wi' cold." + +We took the old fish-box and placed on the pebbles in it an old +saucepan half full of oakum soaked in paraffin. Across the saucepan we +ledged a sooty swivel, and on the swivel a black tin kettle which +leaked slowly into the flame. Tony and myself lay with our four feet +cocked along the edge of the box for warmth. The smoke stank in our +nostrils, but the flame was cheery. By that flickering light the boat +looked a great deep place, full of lumber and the blackest shadows. The +herring scales glittered and the worn-out varnish was like rich brown +velvet. And how good the tea, though it tasted of nothing but sugar, +smoke, paraffin and herring. + +[Sidenote: _A LONG NIGHT AT SEA_] + +It was nearly midnight. Tony suggested forty winks. + +John was still sprawling beneath the cutty. Tony and I snoozed under +the mainsail, huddled up together for the sake of warmth, like animals +in a nest. At intervals we got up to peep over the gunwale or to bale +the boat out. Then with comic sighs we coiled down together again. It +was bitterly cold in the small hours. We pooled our vitality, as it +were, and shared and shared alike. When we finally awoke, about five in +the morning, the wind had died down, the sky and moon were clouded, and +a dull mist was creeping over the sea. + +We hauled in the net--fathoms of it for scarcely a fish. + +"Have 'ee got anything to eat?" asked Tony. + +"No." + +"Have yu got ort to drink?" asked John. + +"No." + +"Got a cigarette?" I asked. + +"Not one." + +"If we was to go a bit farther out and shute...." said Tony. + +"G'out! Hould yer row!" + +"All very well for yu. Yu been sleeping there for all the world like a +gert duncow [dog-fish]. Why didn' 'ee wake up an' hae a yarn for to +keep things merry like?" + +[Sidenote: _NORT' AT ALL_] + +John was leaning out over the bows. He rose up; stretched himself. +"Shute again!" he said with scorn. "Us an't got nort to eat, nort to +drink, nort to smoke, nor nort to talk about, an' us an't catched nort. +Gimme thic sweep there, an' let's get in out o' it, I say." + +It was foggy. I steered the boat by compass over a sea that, under the +smudged moon, was in colour and curve like pale violently shaken liquid +mud. In time we glimpsed the cliffs with the mist creeping up over +them. Day was beginning to break, and with a breath of wind that had +sprung up from the SE., we glided like a phantom ship on a phantom sea +towards a phantom town between whose blind houses the wisps of the fog +writhed tortuously. + +Sixteen hours to sea in an open boat--for three hundred herrings--and +the price three shillings a hundred! + +It is nothing to fishermen, that; but we were all glad of our +breakfast, a smoke and our beds. + + +4 + +Tony was gone to sea on Christmas Eve. (They caught three thousand). +Mrs Widger had cricked her back, or had caught cold in it standing at +the back door with the steaming wash-tub in front of her and a +northerly wind behind. We wanted some supper beer.... + +I felt more than a little shy on entering the jug and bottle department +with a jug. It is such a secret place. To face a bar full of people and +plump a jug down on the counter, is one thing; but it is quite another +to slink up the stairs and into the wooden box--about seven feet high +and four by four--that does duty for the jug and bottle department, and +the privy tippling place, of the Alexandra Hotel. There is no gas +there. Light filters in from elsewhere. It holds about five people, +jammed close together. Round it runs a shelf for glasses, and at one +end is a tiny door through which jugs are passed to the barman. Once +there was a curtain across the entrance, but it was put to such good +and frequent use that they removed it. Talk in the jug and bottle box +is usually carried on in soft whispers punctuated by laughter. + +Three cloaked old women were there and one young one. Their jugs stood +on the shelf, ready to take home, but meanwhile they were having a +round of drinks on their own account. They looked surprised at my +arrival (it was an intrusion); and more surprised still when, on +hearing that the barman was merely having a chat the other side, I +rattled the jug on the shelf and bumped the little door. They gasped +when I slipped the bolt of the little door with a penknife. What chake +to be sure! The hotel shows respect to its light-o'-day customers, but +the dim jug and bottle box is supposed to show respect to the hotel. It +calls the barman _Sir_. It said, "Good-night, sir!" in astonished +chorus to me. + +But just as the mere act of jumping a skipping rope made me long ago a +freeman among the children, so I notice that fetching the supper beer +has resulted in another indefinable promotion. I am not so much now +'thic ther gen'leman tu Tony Widger's.' I am become 'Mister +So-and-so'--myself alone. + +When I returned with the jug Jimmy was seated at the table and saying +between tears, "I want some supper, Mam. I be 'ungry." + +"Yu daring rascal! Yu'll catch your death o' cold if yu goes on getting +your feet wet like this, night after night. I'll break every bone in +your body, I will! Take off they beuts to once, an' go on up over. An't +got no supper for the likes o' you. Yu shan't wear your best clothes +to-morrow, n'eet at all, spoiling 'em like this, yu dirty little cat! +I'll beat it out o' 'ee. Now then! Up over!" + +Very tearful, very hungry, and very slowly, Jimmy went to bed. + +"No supper's the thing for the likes o' he," his mother remarked. "I +shall gie it to him one o' these days, but I don't hold wi' knocking +'em about tu much." + +Her impatience in speech and patience in action are alike +extraordinary. She says she will half kill the children and seldom +strikes even: if I had the responsibility of them, I fear I should do +both. + +[Sidenote: _SUNDAY CLOTHES_] + +Next morning there was a fine dispute over the Sunday clothes. Both +Jimmy and Tommy went upstairs defiantly, and routed them out. The +kitchen was filled with cries and jeers and threats. Tommy appealed to +me. I told him I knew nothing about it, because I hadn't got any Sunday +clothes myself. + +"Iss, yu 'ave," said Tommy. + +"No, not a rag." + +"Yu 'ave." + +"I haven't. I've none at all. You've never seen them." + +"G'out!" + +"That's right." + +"Well," said Tommy confidentially, "Yu got a clean chimie-shirt then, +an't 'ee?" + +In the laughter which followed, the Sunday clothes were slipped on. And +while Jimmy was struggling with a new pair of boots, he paid me the +nicest compliment I have ever heard. He looked up, red but thoughtful. +"Yu'm like Father Christmas," he said. + +"Why for, Jimmy?" + +"'Cause yu'm kind." + +Jimmy doesn't know how kind he is to me. And I don't suppose it would +do him any good to tell him. + +We had a very typical and enjoyable English Christmas. We over-ate +ourselves, and were well pleased, and the children went to bed crying. + + +5 + +[Sidenote: _THE "SHOOTING STAR" FITS OUT_] + +"_Shuteing Star o' Seacombe!_ '_Tis_ a purty crew to go herring +driftin'! I'd so soon fall overboard in a gale o' wind as go out to say +wi' thic li'l Roosian like that ther. Lord! did 'ee ever see the like +o'it? I never did. But there, what can 'ee 'spect when the herring be +up in price an' men an' boats as hasn' been to sea for years fits out +for to go herring driftin'? Coo'h! driftin'!" + +That was Uncle Jake's opinion. He stood on the shingle with his old +curiosity of a hat cocked on one side and his hands deep in his trouser +pockets, turning himself round inside his clothes to rub warmth into +his skin; talking, always talking, whilst his twinkling eyes watch sea +and land; but ready to help a boat shove off, and willing to take as +pay the opportunity of talking to, and at, its crew. "'Tis blowing a +fresh wind out 'long there, I tell 'ee," was his formula of +encouragement for a starting boat. + +Herrings were up! Sixteen shillings a thousand they had been before +Christmas; then eighteen, twenty-three, thirty-one.... "They'm fetching +two poun' a thousand tu Plymouth, what there is, an' buyers there +waiting from all over the kingdom. An' they'm still going up, 'cause +there ain't none. Nine bob a hunderd tu St Ives, I've a-heard say. +There's a Plymouth buyer here to-day. I've a-see'd our Seacombe buyers +luke. They Plymouth men be the bwoys!" + +Herrings too have been in our bay as they have not come for +years--'gert bodies of 'em'--while a succession of gales and blizzards +has been sweeping the whole of the rest of the British coasts, and +driving the steam-drifters into harbour. Hence the price of fish: +quotations very high; business nil, or next door to it. Our bay +however, by a fortunate freak of the weather, has been amply calm for +our little undecked drifters, though squalls off land have made sailing +tricky in the extreme. We have seen the snow on the distant hills but +none has fallen here. We have had the ground-swell, rolling in from +outside, but of broken seas, not one. + +The boats that came in early on Christmas night (they didn't like the +look of the weather) brought hauls of ten thousand or so. They had +given away netfuls of herring to craft from other places, because they +had caught so many, and the wind was against them and the sky wild. + +Next night, much the same thing. It was rumoured that some Cornish +craft were beating up to the bay. + +Next day, the Little Russian, a small, snug, ragged, much-bearded man, +was to be seen painting the stern of his old boat--a craft more +tattered and torn, if possible, than her owner. + +"What be doing, Harry?" + +No reply. Great industry with the paint-brush. + +"Be going to sea then?" + +"Iss intye! What did 'er think?" + +The Little Russian went on doggedly with his work, and when he rose +from his knees, there appeared complete, on the stern of his boat, in +lanky, crooked white letters: _Shooting Star of Seacombe_. + +"Be it true yu'm going to sea t'night, Harry?" + +"Iss." + +"What do 'ee 'spect to catch? Eh?" + +No answer again. The Little Russian was hauling a couple of nets +aboard. + +"Who be going with 'ee?" + +"Ol' Joe Barker an' 'Gustus Theodore." + +"Good Lord! '_Tis_ a crew, that! Be 'ee going to catch dree dozen or +ten thousand?" + +"We'm on'y taking two nets," replied the Little Russian quite +seriously. + +He was very busy. + +[Sidenote: _AND SHOVES OFF_] + +About three in the afternoon, when the drifters put out to sea, the +nor'west wind was springing out from land in squalls. It had not +sea-space to raise big waves, but it blew the white tops off the +wavelets which hurried out against, and on the top of, the sou'westerly +swell that was heaving its way in. As Uncle Jake remarked: "'Tis +blowing fresh, I can tell 'ee, an' not so very far out at that. An' +'tis blowing half a gale from the sou'west outside in the Channel. Do +'ee see thic black line across the horizon? That's the sou'west wind, +an' plenty o'it. Luke at thees yer run along the shore, wi' a calm sea. +'Tis the sou'west outside as makes that tu." + +The boats hoisted their smaller mainsails. "Aye, an' they'll hae to +reef they down afore they gets out far. There! did 'ee see thic? That's +thiccy seine-boat as fitted out. Seine-boats ain't no fit craft for +herring driftin'." + +The mainmast of the seine boat had toppled over to port. No sooner was +it re-stepped, and the sail hoisted, than over it went again. "Step o' +the mast gone, I'll be bound," said Uncle Jake. "They'm going to +capsize, going on like that, if they bain't careful. Poor job! when +mastises goes over like that. Better to row.... There's thic Li'l +Roosian shoving off!" + +In fact, the _Shooting Star_ was shoved off, but a wave threw her back +upon the shore. She was again shoved off. Again she grounded on the +sand, and there she stuck. A roar of laughter broke forth all along the +beach. The Little Russian and his crew stood up in the heeled-over +boat, and by using their oars like punt poles, they tried to prevent +the seas from slewing them round broadside on. Very helpless they +looked, very comic, very futile. + +A swarm of small boys buzzed around and jeered. The Little Russian +jumped up and down with vexation. Augustus Theodore, rowing frantically +in a foot or so of water, splashed and 'caught crabs.' Joe Barker, +tall, patriarchal, thin and thinly clad, stood up to his oar, looked +savage curses from his sunken old eyes and muttered them into his +beard. + +[Sidenote: _AND GETS OFF_] + +"That _be_ a purty crew!" repeated Uncle Jake. "I 'ouldn' go to say wi' +'em, not if.... A purty fellow, thic 'Gustus Theodore! They calls +chil'ern by names nowadays, but they called he 'Gustus Theodore, an' us +can't get over thic, so us al'ays calls 'en 'Gustus Theodore in long. +Bain't no gude tu hisself nor nobody else. I've a-took 'en to say.... +Never again! 'Er ain't no fisherman nuther. An' thic Joe Barker's past +it. He've had his day. Been in the Army an' been in the Navy, an' an't +brought no pension out o' the one n'eet out o' t'other. Helped throw a +'Merican midshipman overboard once, so they say, drough a porthole. +Thought they was going to be hanged for it, but they wasn't. He've +a-lived wildish in his time, I can tell 'ee; an' now he's the man for +sleep. Take 'en out shrimping or lifting crab-pots, stop rowing a +minute an' he's fast asleep. The Li'l Roosian hisself an't been to say +thees dozen years. 'Tis a crew o'it! Luke! _they_ can't shove off. I +can see they wants Uncle Jake there." + +The _Shooting Star_ was still being shoved. The Little Russian was +still jumping up and down in the stern-sheets; Augustus Theodore was +still rowing fast and fruitlessly; and Joe Barker stood impassively +tall--a mummy of a man, wrapped up in aged clothes and a great dirty +white beard. Life was contracted within him. No more than his eyes +seemed alive, and hardly those until you looked closely; for the yellow +rims and whites appeared to be dead, and the old cursing flame of life +burnt only in the pupils. + +"Do 'ee really mean to go?" asked Uncle Jake, taking up a long oar to +shove with. "'Tisn't nowise fit for a crazy craft like thees yer." + +"When a man," said the Little Russian solemnly, "when a man has a +chance to catch herring and pay his way, and pay a debt or two maybe, +'tis on'y right to try." + +"For sure 'tis. But why an't 'ee been to say thees twelve year then?" + +"An't been fit...." + +"Fit! Tis the price o' herring fetches the likes o' yu. Have 'ee got +yer lead-line and compass aboard?" + +"I've broke mine." + +"'Tis tempting Providence to go away wi'out 'em Be yu off? Off yu goes +then. Luke out!" + +A yell went up as a wave broke in over the stern and soaked Joe +Barker's back. + +"They'm off!" cried Uncle Jave with ironic merriment. "Wet drough to +the skin they be!" + +The Little Russian rowed steadily on the same side as 'Gustus Theodore. +Both of them just balanced Joe Barker, who rowed on the other side in +strong jerks, as if his aged strength revived for a part only of each +stroke. + +Darkness, drawing in over the sea, hid the drifters from sight. Along +the beach we asked one another in jest, "I wonder what the _Shuteing +Star_ is doing now?" + +The commonest answer was a laugh. But we did want to know. + +Between eleven o'clock and midnight sail after sail appeared silently +on the black darkness, as if some invisible hand had suddenly painted +them there. The boats were coming in. Creaks and groans of winches +sounded along the beach. + +[Sidenote: _AND RETURNS_] + +"Who be yu?" was the greeting from a rabble of youths who scuttled up +and down the waters' edge to guide boats to their berths and gain first +news of the catches. "Have 'ee see'd ort o' the _Shuteing Star_?" they +shouted. + +"No-o-o-o!" + +"_I_ shan't go to bed till they comes in," said Uncle Jake. "Cuden' +sleep if I did. '_Tis_ a craft! Her's so leaky as a sieve, lying dry +all these years. Not but what her was a gude 'nuff li'l craft in her +time--tu small for winter work. But I wishes 'em luck, I du." + +At last, the _Shooting Star_ did row in. They had not dared to sail +her. She touched the beach before we glimpsed her, for all our +watching. A crowd ran down to haul her up and to crack jokes on her. + +"Have 'ee catched ort, Harry?" + +"Tu or dree dizzen, an' half a ton o' coral an' some wild-crabs." + +"Did 'er sail well--keep up to the wind? Eh?" + +"Us rowed. 'Tis blowin' a gale out there." + +"What yu done to your nets?" + +"Broke 'em." + +"On to the bottom?" + +"Iss." + +"Why didn't 'ee go crab-fishing proper? Be 'ee going again?" + +The little Russan saw no joke. He bustled about the boat and replied: +"A-course we be, if 'tis fit." + +"Well, I wishes 'ee luck then." + +We all wished luck to the _Shooting Star_--to that cranky old boatload +of pluck, ill-luck, and ancient desperation. + +Said Uncle Jake: "I'd rather see they come in wi' a boatload o' herring +than any boat along the beach. 'Tis a purty craft an' a purty crew, but +they du desarve it." + +So said we all. 'Twas the least payment we could make for our +entertainment. + +As soon as they were hauled up, Joe Barker lit his pipe, and, instead +of going to bed, he went west along the shore, and carried up and +sifted sand till dawn. + +"Jest what he be fit for now," Uncle Jake remarked. "That'll get 'en +his bread an' baccy far sooner'n drifting for herring in thic _Shuteing +Star_." + +But if we only could have looked into the _Shooting Star_ at sea. The +_Shooting Star of Seacombe_! + + +6 + +"Us got 'em at last then!" so we tell one another. We have caught the +catch of the season. + +For three or four days the hauls had been fairly good. Elsewhere on the +coast, the snow, sleet, wind and wrecks continued. Here alone, in +Seacombe Bay, it got colder and colder, and the sea became calmer and +sunnier. "Tis like old days," Uncle Jake said while he spliced a new +cut-rope to the drifter. "The herring be come again, in bodies, and the +price be up. Us'll hae 'em." + +[Sidenote: _PAYING CALLS AT SEA_] + +An hour before sunset on Saturday afternoon we were shoved off the +beach--Tony, John, and myself. Every article of underclothing in +duplicate, a couple of guernseys and a coat or two were next to +nakedness. We were bloated with clothes, but that northerly air, it +seemed to be fingering our very skins. Yet there was hardly wind enough +to fill the sail. Ricketty-rock, ricketty-rock, went the sweeps between +the thole-pins, as we rowed to the fishing ground six miles or so away. +Not one of us wished to shirk the heavy work. 'Twas indeed our only +source of warmth. The sun was setting. The moon began to rise. The sea +was all of a glimmer and glitter. + +"I should think we was nearly where they fish be," said John. + +"Bit farther," said Tony. "Us'll drift back 'long when the flid tide +makes." + +"Du as yu'm minded tu." + +"Steer her a little bit in," directed Tony. + +"A little bit out," directed John the next minute. + +It was a middle course that turned out so happily. + +We shot our nets--seven forty-fathom nets we had aboard--between the +dying sunlight and the rising moon. Very still was the sea, and quiet, +except where the other drifters were shooting their nets. Their talk +lingered on the water; small voices that yet sounded strong. By the +light of the moon I counted twenty-seven drifters, some of them great +harbour craft from Cornwall, carrying fifteen or more nets. It seemed +as if not a herring on that little fishing ground could escape the long +fleets of nets. + +We lighted the paraffin flare; supped on sandwiches and oily tea. We +stamped about the stern-sheets to try and warm our feet. We sat awhile +beneath the cutty. We thought we smelt fish, but it might have been +only the smoke from our oil fire and the herring roe plastered about +the boat. Despairing of sleep in such a cold, we sang and smoked. + +Presently a plash of oars. Little punts were detaching themselves from +the larger drifters and flitting about on the sea like slow-winged +moon-butterflies. One came alongside. + +"Whu's that there?" + +"Tony an' John Widger--Have 'em been catching much to Hallsands?--Be +they Plymouth drifters up t'night?--What price yu been making?--How +deep yu got yer nets?--Have 'ee catched holt the bottom?--How's Aaron +an' Charles?--Did he get back ort o' his gear?--Us an't done a gert +deal eet. Few thousands thees week. Be yu going to haul in +soon?--Better, be her? Thought her was dead by now...." + +[Sidenote: _HAULING IN_] + +The fish-gossip over, we knew all the news of our stretch of coast. +After taking another cigarette and another pull at our 'drop o' summut +short,' the man in the punt rowed off to his drifter. + +"D' yu know your fourth buoy's awash?" he shouted back. + +"Is it, by God!" said John. + +"I can see 'tis," said Tony. + +"G'out! why didn' 'ee see 'twas afore then? Let's go an' luke." + +We buoyed the end of the road and started rowing alongside the +net-buoys. The fourth was bobbing up and down. The fifth appeared now +and then. None of the others was visible. + +"Damn'd if us bain't going to see some sport!" shouted John as we +hastened back to take up the road. + +We tugged on oilskins and then waited watchfully--for the inside net to +fill as well. The third buoy disappeared. The second went awash. "Now +'tis time, ain't it?" + +"Iss, I reckon." + +We bent to it, and began to haul. + +The road come in heavy: John hauled and Tony coiled. As the net rose we +saw a shimmer in the water, not of sea-fire--it was too cold--but of +silver-sided herring. Then John took the foot of the net, Tony the mesh +and myself the headrope. One strain. Altogether! Net and fish came in +over the gunwale. + +"No use to try and pick 'em out yer!" said John. + +"Us 'ould never ha' got 'em in wi' two," panted Tony. + +"Haul, casn'! Trim the boat. We'm going to hae all us can carry if +t'other nets be so full as thees yer." + +We hauled, and pulled, and puffed and swore. The fish came over the +side like a band of jewels, like shining grains on a huge and +never-ending ear of corn, like a bright steel mat.... It was as if the +moonlight itself, that flooded air and water, was solidifying into fish +in the dimmer depths of the sea. A good catch must have dropped back +out of the net. At times, it seemed as if nothing could move the +headrope. I jammed a knee against the gunwale, waited till the dipping +of the boat gave me a foot or two of line, then jammed again to hold +it. The sea-birds screeched at their feast. + +Tony, an inflated mannikin, danced on the piled-up nets and fish. +"Help, help!" he cried to the next drifter. "Us got a catch." + +"Hould yer row!" + +"Help, help!" + +"Shut up, yu fule!--We'm not done yet.--Thee doesn't want to pay for +help, dost?" + +[Sidenote: _THE CATCH OF THE SEASON_] + +We hauled, pulled, puffed and swore again. Yard by yard the nets came +up, now foul, now broken, now tangled, now wound about the headrope and +almost solid with fish. + +"Oh, my poor back." + +"Lord, my arms!" + +"Casn' thee trim a boat better'n that?" + +"Where 'er down tu?" + +"There's only two strakes to spare." + +The water was within less than a foot of the gunwale, and we were five +or six miles from home. + +"Help, help!" shouted Tony again, and this time we let it pass. Five +out of our seven nets were aboard; we could not take the remaining two. + +Another drifter came alongside and took in the sixth net. + +"Come on! here's the seventh--the last." + +"Can't take no more." + +"Ther's on'y thees yer outside net. Casn' thee take thic?" + +"Can't du it. We'm leaking now. Here's your headrope. Good-night." + +Tony gave a gesture of despair. "What shall us du? Us can't take in +much more. + +"Hould yer row, an' haul!" + +The last net was fuller than ever. We hauled in half of it. A punt came +near. "Can 'ee take one net?" yelled Tony. + +"Us got 'en half in now," said John. + +"Iss, but the wind's gone round--north-easterly--dead against us. An' +luke at the circle round the mune. Ther's wind in thic sky, I tell 'ee. +Us got so much now as we can carry home on a calm sea, let 'lone +choppy." + +We cut the net. + +"Hurry up! Hoist sail and get in out o'it 'fore the wind rises. Come +on!" + +With two oars out to windward we started beating home. We made a tack +out to sea. There the waves skatted in over the bows, for the +deeply-laden boat was down by the head because the heavy pile of net +and fish prevented the water from running aft where we could have +bailed it out. If we had had to tack much farther to sea.... We should +have lost the catch, and perhaps ourselves. + +We put the boat round towards Seacombe. "Luff her up all yu can," said +John. "Luff her up, I tell thee, or we'm never going to fetch. The +sea's rising an' us an't got nort to spare." + +By keeping the luff of the sail in a flutter, sometimes too much into +the wind, I just fetched. Then we rowed into smoother water. + +"'Tis fifteen thousand if 'tis one," said John. + +"'Tis more'n that," said Tony with a note of respect in his voice. + +[Sidenote: _PACKING THE FISH_] + +"Better wait till they sends some boats out. Us can't baych the boat +wi' thees weight in her." + +We yelled, anchored, then waited; swore, yelled and waited. Someone +came at last. The great heavy mast was sent ashore. Two boatloads of +net and fish followed, and finally the drifter herself was beached. + +The crowd that had gathered on the shingle worked at the winch and +ropes. We walked about among them answering questions, but for the +moment doing nothing. We felt we had a right to watch the landlubbers +work in return for the herrings we threw out to them. We had been to +sea; had caught the catch of the season. + +I came in house and fried some herrings for supper. Tony and John went +back to the boat. All night long they worked under the moon, drawing +out the net and picking the fish from it, standing knee-deep in fish, +spotted with scales like sequins. Far into Sunday they worked, counting +and packing the fish while the Sunday folk in their best clothes +strolled along the sea-wall and sniffed. + +Twenty-two long-thousand herrings--squashed, dirty and +bloodstained--were carted away in the barrels. Twenty-eight hours Tony +and John had worked. Then they washed, picked herring scales off +themselves, and rested. The skin was drawn tightly over their faces +and, as it were, away from their eyes. I saw, as I glanced at them, +what they will look like when they are old men: the skull and +crossbones half peeped out. And I said to myself: "When we feed on +herrings we feed on fishermen's strength. Though we don't cook human +meat, we are cannibals yet. We eat each other's lives." + +Rightly considered, that's not a nasty thought. Nor a new one either. + + +7 + +New Year's Eve last night.... Tony did not go to sea. He announced that +he would turn over a new leaf, and be a gen'leman, and not do no work +no more. "Summut'll turn up," he said when I asked him how he was going +to feed his family. "Al'ays have done an' al'ays will, I s'pose. Thees +yer ol' fule 'll go on till he's clean worked out. Thee casn' die but +once, an' thee casn' help o'it nuther. + +"Shut thee chatter an' bring in some wude," said Mrs Widger. "Now then +yu children, off yu goes! Up over, else my hand'll be 'longside o'ee!" + +"Gude-night!" say the children in chorus. "Gude-night! Gude-night! See +yu t'morrow morning. Du us hae presents on New Year's Day, Mam?" + +"Yu'll see. P'raps a cracker...." + +"Coo'h...." + +"Up over!" + +"What 'tis tu be a family man," said Tony. + +"Whu's fault's that?" Mam Widger retorted. + +"There, me ol' stocking, don't thee worry a man! Gie us a kiss...." + +"G'out!" + +[Sidenote: _DREE-HA'P'ORTH_] + +The Christmas decorations and the little spangled toys from the +children's crackers were still hanging from clothes-lines across the +kitchen. We piled wood on the fire; it had barnacle shells on it; with +the wreckage of good ships we warmed ourselves. Mam Widger laid the +supper. The steam from the kettles puffed merrily into the room. +Herrings were cooking in the oven. A faint odour--they were being +stewed in vinegar--stole out into the room to give us appetite and for +the moment a sense of plenty. Mrs Widger took a penny-ha'penny from the +household purse and handed it, together with a jug to Tony. +"Dree-ha'p'orth o' ale an' stout. Go on." + +Tony returned with tupence-ha'p'orth. He had added a penny out of his +own pocket because he is ashamed to ask for less than a pint. Grannie +Pinn came in at the same time. "I got the t'other pen'orth for me +mither-in-law," said Tony. + +"Chake again!" Grannie Pinn cried. "I wants more'n a pen'orth, I du." + +Tony slipped off his boots just in time. It was I who had to fetch an +extra dree-ha'p'orth. + +We supped with the uproariousness that Grannie Pinn always brings here. +Some other people dropped in to see how we were doing. Not staying to +clear the supper, we sang. The songs, as such, were indifferently good, +but we meant them and enjoyed them. For a while Grannie Pinn contented +herself with humming and nodding to the chorus. She started singing: +swore at us for laughing at her. "I cude sing a song wi' anybody once," +she said; and therewith she struck up a fine, very Rabelaisian old song +in many verses. She lifted up her face to the ceiling, blushed (I am +sure the Tough Old Stick blushed), and in a high cracked voice that +gradually gathered tone and force, she trolled her verses out. With an +infectious abandonment, we took up the chorus. After all, 'twas a song +of things that happen every day--one of those pieces of folk-humour +which makes life's seriousness bearable by carrying us frankly back to +the animal that is in us, that has been cursed for centuries and still +remains our strength. + +Grannie Pinn's song was the event of the evening. Excited by her +efforts to the point of hardly knowing whether to laugh or cry, she +told us we were 'a pack o' gert fules,' and went. The other visitors +followed after. + +"Don' know what yu feels like," said Tony when they were all gone. "I +feels more-ish. 'N hour agone I wer fit for bed, now I feels 's if I +cude sing for hours on end...." + +[Sidenote: _THE NEW YEAR_] + +"May as well welcome in the New Year now 'tis so late as 'tis," said +Mrs Widger, taking from one of her store-places a bottle of green +ginger-wine and another of fearful and wonderful 'Invalid Port' which, +as she remarked, 'ain't so strengthening as the port what gentry has.' +Tony added hot water to his ginger-wine, lay back in the courting +chair, plumped his feet on Mrs Widger's lap, and sang some more of +those sea songs that have such melancholy windy tunes and yet most +curiously stimulate one to action. I think it must be because they echo +that particular sub-emotional desperation which causes men to do their +reckless best--the desperation that the treacherous sea itself +engenders. + +At a minute or two before twelve by the clock, the three of us went out +to the back door. When the cats had scuttled away, the narrow walled-in +garden was very still. By the light of the stars, shining like points +in the deep winter heavens, I could see the beansticks, the balks of +wood and the old masts and oars. I could also smell the drain. Tony, in +his stockinged feet, leant on his wife's shoulder while he raised first +one foot from the cold stones, and then the other. We were a little +hushed, with more than expectancy. So we waited; to hear the church +clock strike and to welcome in the New Year. + +And we waited until Tony said that his feet were too cold to stay there +any longer. The church clock struck--_ting-tang, ting-tang_--in the +frosty air.... A quarter past! The New Year had been with us all the +while. It was our German-made kitchen clock had stopped. + +We laughed aloud because the strain was relaxed; then bolted the door +and began putting away the supper things. + +"If anybody wants to make me a New Year's Gift," said Tony, "they can +gie me a thousand a year." + +"And then yu'd be done for," I said. "Yu cuden' stand a life o' nort to +du. Nor cude I. We'm both in the same box, Tony. We've both got only +our strength and skill and health, and if that fails, then we'm done. +We'm our own stock-in-trade, and if we fail ourselves, then we've both +got only the workhouse or the road." + +"Iss," said Mam Widger, "an' I don' know but what yu'm worse off than +Tony. He _cude_ get somebody to work his boats--for a time. An' I cude +work. But afore yu comes to the workhouse yu jest walk along thees way, +an' if us got ort to eat yu shall hae some o'it." + +"Be damn'd if yu shan't!" said Tony. (I was putting away the pepper-pot +at the moment). "Us 'ouldn't never let thee starve, not if us had it +ourselves for to give 'ee." + + * * * * * + +So there 'tis. I'd wish to do the same for him, that he knows. How much +the spirit of such an offer can mean, only those who have been without +a home can understand fully. This New Year's Day has been happier than +most. Life has made me a New Year's Gift so good that I cannot free +myself from a suspicion of its being too good. + +It has given me home. + + + + +X + +POSTSCRIPT + + + SEACOMBE. + +I am often asked why I have forsaken the society of educated people, +and have made my home among 'rough uneducated' people, in a poor man's +house. The briefest answer is, that it is good to live among those who, +on the whole, are one's superiors. + +It is pointed out with considerable care what ill effects such a life +has, or is likely to have, upon a man. It is looked upon as a kind of +relapse. But to settle down in a poor man's house is by no means to +adopt a way of life that is less trouble. On the contrary, it is more +trouble. + +It is true that most of what schoolmasters call one's accomplishments +have to be dropped. One cannot keep up everything anywhere. + +It is true that one goes to the theatre less and reads less. Life, +lived with a will, is play enough, and closer acquaintance with life's +sterner realities renders one singularly impatient with the literature +of life's frillings. I do not notice, however, that it makes one less +susceptible to the really fine and strong things of literature and art. + +It is true that one drops into dialect when excited; that one's manners +suffer in conventional correctness. I suppose I know how to behave +fairly correctly; I was well taught at all events; but my manners never +have been and never will be so good, so considerate as Tony's. 'Tisn't +in me. + +It is true that one becomes much coarser. One acquires a habit of +talking with scandalous freedom about vital matters which among the +unscientific educated are kept hid in the dark--and go fusty there. But +I do not think there is much vulgarity to be infected with here. +Coarseness and vulgarity are incompatibles. It was well said in a book +written not long ago, that "Coarseness reveals but vulgarity hides." +Vulgarity is chiefly characteristic of the non-courageous who are +everlastingly bent on climbing up the social stairs. Poor people are +hardly ever vulgar, until they begin to 'rise' into the middle class. + +[Sidenote: _WISDOM_] + +It is true that, so far as knowledge goes, one is bound to be cock o' +the walk among uneducated people--which, alone, is bad for a man. But +knowledge is not everything, nor even the main thing. Wisdom is more +than knowledge: it is _Knowledge applied to life, the ability to make +use of the knowledge well_. In that respect I often have here to eat a +slice of humble-pie. For all my elaborate education and painfully +gained stock of knowledge, I find myself silenced time after time by +the direct wisdom of these so-called ignorant people. They have +preserved better, between knowledge and experience, that balance which +makes for wisdom. They have less knowledge (less mental dyspepsy too) +and use it to better purpose. It occurs to one finally that, according +to our current standards, the great wise men whom we honour--Christ, +Plato, Shakespeare, to name no more--were very ignorant fellows. +Possibly the standards are wrong. + +[Sidenote: _DIFFERENTIAL EVOLUTION_] + +To live with the poor is to feel oneself in contact with a greater +continuity of tradition and to share in a greater stability of life. +The nerves are more annoyed, the thinking self less. Perhaps the +difference between the two kinds of life may be tentatively +expressed--not necessarily accounted for--in terms of Differential +Evolution,[23] somewhat thus: + + (1) The first, the least speculative, evolutionary criterion of an + animal is its degree of adaptation to its environment. + + (2) Man exhibits a less degree of adaptation to environment than + any other animal; principally because (_a_) he consists, roughly + speaking, incomparably more than any other animal, of three + interdependent parts--body, thinking brain, and that higher mental + function that we call spirit--the development of any one of which, + beyond a certain stage, is found to be detrimental to the other + two; and because (_b_) he is able possibly to control directly his + own evolution, and certainly to modify it indirectly by modifying + the environment in which he evolves. He is able to make mistakes in + his own evolution. + + (3) The typical poor man is better adapted to his environment, such + as it is, than the typical man of any other class; for he has been + kept in closer contact with the primary realities--birth, death, + risk, starvation;--in closer contact, that is to say, with those + sections of human environment which are not of human making and + which are common to all classes. He has fewer mistakes to go back + upon. + + [23] Evolution is at present the last refuge of unscientific + minds which think they have explained a process when they + have given it a new name, just as chemists used to call an + obscure chemical action _catalytic_ and then assume that its + nature was plain. _Evolution_ means an _unfolding_. In that + sense it is an observed fact, though exactly how the + unfolding is brought about is still conjectural. But it does + not matter for the purposes of my argument whether human + beings evolve by the transmission to offspring of acquired + characteristics, or by bequeathing to them as birthright an + environment that their fathers had to make. The material for + constructing any theory of mental, or joint mental and + physical evolution, is so hazy that one cannot do more than + speculate. It may be noted, however, that acquired mental + characteristics appear to be more transmissible, and less + stable, than acquired physical characteristics; and that + mental evolution (in the broad sense again) proceeds faster + and collapses more readily than physical evolution. + + It might be said, of course, that mal-adaptation at any given + moment is more than counterbalanced by greater evolutional + potentialities, or by greater inducement to evolve; and that the + above chain of reasoning simply goes to prove that the poor man is + more of an animal--less evolved. On the other hand, from an + evolutionary standpoint, the animal faculties are the most basic of + all. A sound stomach is more necessary than a highly developed + brain, and good reproductive faculties are essential; because the + first demand of evolution is plenty of material. It does not follow + that our typical poor man is more of an animal, is less evolved, or + has a smaller potentiality to evolve, because he has preserved + better the animal faculties which lie at the basis of evolution. + +Furthermore: + + (4) There is a reasonable probability that an interior balance, + between body, brain, and spirit, is more needful for realising the + potentialities of evolution than rapidity of development in any + single respect. _Mens sana in corpore sano--animaque integra_ + is an ideal as sound as it is unachieved. More haste less speed, is + probably true of human evolution. A healthy baby is more hopeful + than a mad adult. + + (5) The typical poor man does, now, exhibit a better balance + between these three components of him. Less evolved in some ways, + he is on the whole, and for that reason, more forward. His + evolution is proceeding with greater solidity. It is more stable, + and more likely to realise its potentialities. + + * * * * * + +That is a speculation among probabilities and possibilities; an attempt +to go in a bee-line across fields that are mainly hidden ditches; a +first spying out of a country that wants mapping; a course over a sea +that can never perhaps be buoyed, where bearings must be taken afresh +from the sun for each voyage that is made. In any case, my belief grows +stronger that the poor have kept essentially what a schoolboy calls the +better end of the stick; not because their circumstances are +better--materially their lives are often terrible enough--but because +they know better how to make the most of what material circumstances +they have. If they could improve their material circumstances and +continue making the most of them.... That is the problem. + +Good Luck to us all! + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POOR MAN'S HOUSE*** + + +******* This file should be named 26126.txt or 26126.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/6/1/2/26126 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://www.gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: +http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/26126.zip b/26126.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ad201a9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26126.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a49d8aa --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #26126 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/26126) |
