diff options
Diffstat (limited to '26113-h')
126 files changed, 8500 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/26113-h/26113-h.htm b/26113-h/26113-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..15d9f20 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/26113-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4250 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of the Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet. + </title> +<link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #26113] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING *** + + + + +Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<h1>Handbook of Wool Knitting +and Crochet</h1> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 397px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr001-1.jpg" width="397" height="600" alt="Front Cover" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class='center'> +Published by<br /> +<span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft Publishing Company</span><br /> +Augusta, Maine<br /> +1918<br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 172px;"> +<p class='center'><b>12c</b></p> +<img src="images/illus-hr002-1.jpg" width="172" height="250" alt="Handbook of Crochet" title="" /> +<p class='center'><b>12c</b></p> +</div> + + + +<p class='center'><i>You can crochet the most fascinating +things imaginable if you have this</i></p> + +<h2>Handbook of Crochet</h2> + +<p class='center'>By Emma Chalmers Monroe</p> + +<p>This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains +most valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets +or wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very +careful selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate, +every successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect +results are a certainty.</p> + +<p>It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use of +crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders, Scarf-Ends, +Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.</p> + +<p>The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7×10 inches) and 44 illustrations. +It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors.</p> + +<p>Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be +sent you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be +obtained only from us.</p> + +<p class='center'><span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br /> +Augusta—Maine</p> + +<hr style="width: 95%;" /> + +<h1>Handbook of Wool Knitting +and Crochet</h1> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Lesson_in_Knitting" id="A_Lesson_in_Knitting"></a>A Lesson in Knitting</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_1"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr003-1.jpg" width="350" height="223" alt="Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles</span> +</div> + +<p>The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is +sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (<a href="#knit_fig_1">Figure +1</a>). There are several methods for this, the following being +that preferred and generally used by the writer: Leave +a spare end of thread, sufficient for the number of stitches +you wish to cast on, lying toward the left, the spool or +ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the +right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the +third of the left hand; bring the working-thread across +the palm of the hand, around the thumb and back +between the forefinger and second finger; bend the +forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and +the second finger), pass it under the thread which crosses +the palm of the hand, and then draw the forefinger back, +or straighten it, which will give you a loop with crossed +threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this +loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread +(or ball-thread) around the point of needle from right +to left, as in plain knitting, draw it back through the loop, +slip off the latter, and draw up the left thread. Then proceed +to make the crossed loop and knit it off in the same +way for the next and following stitches. The whole operation +is very simple, although the instructions seem long because +explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and +follow them through carefully, and you will very soon master +the "crossed casting on."</p> + +<p>Another method, preferred by many and practically the +same in effect, except that the edge is not quite so firm, is +as follows: Loop the thread around the left forefinger, +holding the spare end between thumb and second finger, +pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the thread +around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the +latter and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle +under the loop, or lower thread, instead of through it, +bringing it back through, and then knitting off, you will +really get the crossed loop, and many find this method +easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be +doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or +any article where much wear comes.</p> + +<p>Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many +like this method when there are many stitches. Twist a +loop around the needle held in the left hand, bring the end +of thread, or spare thread, to the front, crossing the working-thread +to hold it in place—or, if preferred, simply tie +a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the +right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread +around point of right needle and draw through the loop, +bringing the right needle again in front of left. Thus far, +the process is quite like that of plain knitting. Keeping the +right needle still in the new stitch or loop, transfer the +stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in front and +putting the point through the loop from front to back, +leaving the right needle in place for the next stitch; the +loops are not slipped off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, +so that all are kept on the needle. A little practise +will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly and evenly.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_2"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr004-1.jpg" width="350" height="211" alt="Figure 2. Knitting Plain" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 2. Knitting Plain</span> +</div> + +<p>The plain knitting (<a href="#knit_fig_2">Figure 2</a>), is +done as follows: Having cast on the +requisite number of stitches, insert the +right needle through the front of left +needle from left to right, the right +needle passing behind the left; +carry the thread around point +of right needle and bring it down +between the two needles, then draw +the point of right needle back and +through the stitch, forming the new +stitch on right needle and letting +the other slip off the left, pushing +down the point of left needle to facilitate +this process; repeat until all +the stitches are knitted off and the +row is complete. Where there are +edges to be joined, as in knitting back +and fronts of a sweater, it is a good +plan to slip the first stitch of each +row.</p> + +<p>Right here a suggestion about the +method of holding the thread may be +of value: By the first method the +thread is carried over the little finger +of right hand, under second and +third fingers and over the tip of the +forefinger, which should be held close +to the work; it is this finger which +passes the thread over point of right +needle for the new stitch. By +another method the thread is carried +over the left forefinger, under second +and third and over the little finger, +exactly as it is held for crocheting: +insert the right needle through 1st +stitch on left needle in usual way, +push it over the thread on left forefinger, +and draw this back through +the stitch with the point of right +needle. Only the needle is held in +the right hand, and many workers +claim that the work is much more +rapidly done.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_3"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr004-2.jpg" width="350" height="219" alt="Figure 3. Purling" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 3. Purling</span> +</div> + +<p>The purl- or seam-stitch (<a href="#knit_fig_3">Figure +3</a>) is the exact reverse of plain knitting, +both as to method of work and +appearance, being in reality the wrong +side of plain knitting. In the latter +the thread is kept at the back of +the work; for purling, bring it to the +front between the two needles. Put +the point of right needle through the +front of 1st stitch on left needle from +right to left, the right needle being +thus brought in front of the left; pass +the thread around the front of right +needle from right to left and back +between needles, then push down +the point and draw the loop backward +through the stitch, instead of +forward, as in plain knitting, the +right needle being thus brought +behind the left. Slip off the old +stitch as usual, and take care to +return the thread to its place at the +back before beginning to knit plain +again.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_4"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr004-3.jpg" width="350" height="199" alt="Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p>Garter-stitch, so called (<a href="#knit_fig_4">Figure 4</a>) +is simply plain knitting back and +forth, which gives the effect of ridges, +one row knit, the next purled. This +is a stitch much used for sweaters, +and other knitted garments. If one +wishes to have the right side appear +as in plain knitting, the 1st row +must be knitted plain, the next +purled. Since one is the reverse of +the other, the right side will be plain +knitting, the wrong side purled.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_5"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr005-1.jpg" width="350" height="205" alt="Figure 5. The Double Rib" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 5. The Double Rib</span> +</div> + +<p>The rib-stitch is alternately plain +and purled. To knit the single rib, +* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double +rib, (<a href="#knit_fig_5">Figure 5,</a>) * knit 2, purl 2; +repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, +purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib +may be made that is liked, always +taking care—unless knitting in +rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking—to +knit the stitches purled on +the preceding row, and purl the knitted +ones. There are a large variety +of fancy patterns made by combining +plain knitting and purling, such as +the basket-stitch and others, of even +or broken "check."</p> + +<p>There are many variations of the +simplest stitches; for example, the +common garter-stitch gives a particularly +good effect if knitted from +the back. Put the needle in from +right to left, through the back part of +the stitch to be knitted; leave the +thread behind the needle, then pass it +from right to left over the needle and +draw it through the stitch, allowing +the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. +In this stitch the two threads +of the loop are crossed, instead of +lying side by side as in plain knitting.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_6"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr005-2.jpg" width="350" height="213" alt="Figure 6. Making "Overs"" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 6. Making "Overs"</span> +</div> + +<p>"Overs" (<a href="#knit_fig_6">Figure 6</a>) are used in all +lace patterns, and many times in +fancy designs for wool knitting. To +make an "over" bring the thread +before the needle as if to purl, then +knit the next stitch plain as usual. +This brings a loop over the needle, +which in the next row is to be +knitted as any stitch, thus increasing +the number of stitches in the row. +In case it is not desired to increase +the stitches, one must narrow, by +knitting two stitches together, once +for every "over." If a larger hole is +wanted, the thread is put twice over +the needle, and in the following one +of these loops is knitted, the other +purled.</p> + +<p>To "purl-narrow," or purl two +together, bring the thread to the front +as for purling, then to form the +extra stitch, carry the thread back +over the needle and to the front again; +then insert the right needle through +two stitches instead of one, and knit +them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an +abbreviation frequently used for +this.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_7"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr005-3.jpg" width="350" height="220" alt="Figure 7. Binding Off" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 7. Binding Off</span> +</div> + +<p>To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch +from left needle to the right needle, +without knitting it; knit next +stitch, then draw the stitch on +right needle over the knitted one, +letting it fall between needles. To +slip, narrow and bind, slip first stitch, +knit next two together, and draw the +slipped stitch over. To cast off or +bind off, (<a href="#knit_fig_7">Figure 7,</a>) slip 1st stitch, +knit next, draw slipped stitch over, +knit next stitch, draw the previous +knitted stitch over, and continue, +taking care that the chain of stitches +thus cast off be neither too tight nor +too loose, but just as elastic as the +remainder of the work.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Sleeveless_Sweater" id="A_Sleeveless_Sweater"></a>A Sleeveless Sweater</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr006-1.jpg" width="284" height="450" alt="A Sleeveless Sweater" title="" /> +<span class="caption">A Sleeveless Sweater</span> +</div> + +<p>A sleeveless sweater, +as pretty as it is comfortable, +requires six skeins of +Shetland floss and a pair of No. +5 amber needles. Pink floss +was chosen for the model, but +any preferred color may be +substituted.</p> + +<p>Cast on 85 stitches; knit +in basket-stitch, as follows:</p> + +<p>1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat +across, ending with knit 5.</p> + +<p>2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat +across, ending with purl 5.</p> + +<p>Repeat these two rows +twice, making 6 rows in all; +then to change the check knit +7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st, +repeat twice, and again change +the check by repeating from +1st row. Continue until the +border is five checks deep, or +30 rows.</p> + +<p>Knit across plain and purl +back for 84 rows; narrow 1 +stitch each side every other +row, three times, for the armhole, +leaving 79 stitches on +your needle, and giving 89 +rows from the border. Knit +across plain and purl back for +38 rows; putting these stitches +on a large safety-pin for convenience, +knit 31, bind off 17 +stitches for neck, and on the +remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 +rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, +to give the effect of a seam on +the shoulder. Continue the +front, knitting across and +purling back, adding a stitch +toward the front each time to +make the neck V-shaped, for +38 rows; then add 1 stitch at +the armhole, and next row +cast on 8 stitches for underarm. +Do not widen further +toward the front, but continue +knitting forward and purling +back for 85 rows; then +make the border of 30 rows, +five checks wide, to correspond +with the back, and bind +off. Knit the other front to +correspond.</p> + +<p>Pick up the stitches around +armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5, +purl 5 for 6 rows, making an +edge of checks; bind off. Pick +up the stitches on front, to the +center of back of neck, about +175 in all, make a row of checks +to correspond with the arm, +and bind; work a border in +the same way on other side of +front, and sew neatly at back +of neck, also join the underarm +seams, taking care to +match the checks of the +border perfectly.</p> + +<p>For the belt: Cast on 25 +stitches, and proceed as directed +for the border until you +have the desired length; the +belt illustrated is 42 checks +long. Across one end crochet +3 chain loops, filling these with +doubles, and sew to the other +end three pearl buttons to +match. The belt is caught +along the top in the back, giving +the short-waisted effect.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2>Costume for the Winter-Girl</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 244px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr007-1.jpg" width="244" height="450" alt="Costume for the Winter-Girl" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Costume for the Winter-Girl</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark +rose was used for the model, but any preferred color +may be substituted), three balls of gray Angora, one pair +each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a steel +crochet-hook, No. 6.</p> + +<p>For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the +back 100 stitches (these will measure 20 inches). Knit +plain, back and forth (which will give you ridges or ribs) +for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each end of needle +every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76 stitches +on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline); +knit on these stitches for 9½ inches from the waistline, then +decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3 +times, or until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches +until the back measures 15½ inches from the waistline. +Knit 25 stitches off on a spare needle, bind off 20 stitches +for back of neck, and on the other 25 stitches knit one front +after the following directions, and the other to correspond.</p> + +<p>Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch +toward the front every other row until you have added 6 +stitches; cast on 7 stitches more toward the front, giving 38 +stitches on the needle; knit in ridges, increasing 1 stitch +toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches have been +added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making +60 stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on +the 60 stitches for 9½ inches, then increase 1 stitch every +8th row toward the underarm- or side-seam, until the latter +is of the same length as that of the back, including the 2 +inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to correspond +and sew up side-seams.</p> + +<p>With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front +(have an uneven number of stitches on needle), and on another +spare needle pick up the stitches across the back; on +another pick up the stitches of front, having the same +number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch on +needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which +will be the corner stitch.</p> + +<p>1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front, +knit 1, * over, narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch, +over, knit the corner stitch, again repeat from * to next +corner, over, knit corner stitch, repeat from * until but 1 +stitch remains, over, knit last stitch.</p> + +<p>2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the +place of narrowed one.</p> + +<p>3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, +knit to next corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and +knit plain to end of row.</p> + +<p>Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows +from the beginning.</p> + +<p>In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches +from the neck, bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then +knit 13, bind off 4, and repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13 +stitches apart. In next row cast on 4 stitches over where +they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for 4 more +ridges, and bind off.</p> + +<p>Sleeves.—Cast on 34 stitches (about 7½ inches); knit in +ridges, casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every +other row until there are 74 stitches on needle (about 15 +inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of +needle every 12th row until there are 56 stitches remaining +on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17 inches, +or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13 +ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles +knit 7 ridges, bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs.</p> + +<p>Collar.—Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around +neck of sweater (not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not +bind off. With a spare needle pick up 1 stitch from each +ridge on each end of +collar; with gray Angora +and No. 3 needles repeat +3d and 2d rows alternately +for border until +there are 7 ridges, and +bind off.</p> + +<p>Pockets.—Cast on 28 +stitches; knit in ridges +for 4 inches, change to +Angora and No. 3 +needles, knit 7 ridges, +making a buttonhole in +4th ridge at center of +pocket, bind off and sew +the pocket neatly in +place on the sweater. +Sew the sleeves in.</p> + +<p>Belt.—With dark rose +cast on 23 stitches +(about 4½ inches), knit in +ridges until the belt is the +width of the back at +waistline, bind off and +sew in place with two +buttons at each side.</p> + +<p>Buttons.—With dark +rose, chain 3, turn; miss +1 stitch, 8 doubles in +next; 2 doubles in each +of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles +in 1st double, 1 in next; +repeat from * until the +circle is of a size to cover +the mold, work 1 row +without widening, slip +the mold in, * work +around with 1 double in +a stitch, miss 1, repeating +from last * until +closed. If preferred, a +small square may be +knitted like the body of +the sweater and used to +cover mold.</p> + +<p>The skating-cap is 23 +inches head-size, and requires +three skeins of the +dark-rose floss, two balls +of gray Angora wool and +4 steel needles No. 8.</p> + +<p>Using the Angora wool, +cast on 136 stitches; knit +45 on each of 2 needles +and 46 stitches on the 3d, +and knit in single rib +(knit 1, purl 1) in rounds +for 1½ inches, change to +the rose floss and knit in +single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single +rib for 1½ inches; change to rose floss and knit in single +rib until the top measures 14½ inches, then bind off and +draw together, leaving sufficient opening for the tassel to +be sewed in.</p> + +<p>Tassel.—Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 +inches long, tie in the center, fold where tied and tie again +below. Sew the tassel at top of cap.</p> + +<p>Scarf.—Materials required are four skeins of dark rose +Shetland floss, two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair +each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone knitting-needles. With gray +Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60 stitches, and +knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit +7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and +again knit 7 ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles +and knit for 50 inches, or length of scarf desired; then, as at +beginning, knit 7 ridges of Angora, 7 ridges of rose and +again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off.</p> + +<p>Knitted Gloves.—Materials required are three skeins of +Shetland floss, and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use +two threads of the floss at once.</p> + +<p>Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib +(knit 1, purl 1) for 44 +rounds, or until the wrist +is as long as desired, then +knit 16 rounds plain.</p> + +<p>61. Knit to within 4 +stitches of end of round, +widen 1, knit 4, widen 1.</p> + +<p>62, 63, 64, 65. Knit +plain.</p> + +<p>Repeat the last 5 +rounds, increasing 2 +stitches every 5th round +until you have 10 stitches +between the two widening +points, and 58 +stitches on the needles.</p> + +<p>To form the thumb, +knit 7 stitches on each +of 2 needles and cast on +4 stitches between the +widening points, thus +making 18 stitches on 3 +needles.</p> + +<p>Knit 22 rounds plain. +* Narrow, knit 1; repeat +around; knit 1 round +plain; repeat from *. +Narrow until the thumb +is closed, draw the wool +through, and leave an +end to fasten down on +the wrong side.</p> + +<p>Pick up the 4 stitches +cast on at base of thumb, +making 48 stitches on +the hand. Knit 15 +rounds, then divide the +stitches as follows: Slip +24 stitches on one knitting-needle +for top of +hand starting from the +3d cast-on stitch at beginning +of thumb, and +the remaining 24 stitches +for palm of hand on +another needle.</p> + +<p>First Finger: Knit 6 +stitches from top of hand, +slip remaining 18 +stitches on a safety-pin, +also 18 stitches from +palm of hand on another +safety-pin, cast on 3 +stitches for between +fingers, knit remaining +6 from palm of hand, +making 15 stitches in +all, on these knit 30 +rounds, and finish off as +directed for the thumb.</p> + +<p>Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast +on 3 stitches, knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick +up 3 stitches cast on at base of first finger, making 19 +stitches on needle; * knit 1 round plain; knit to last 2 +stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches picked up, +narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining +knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like +the thumb.</p> + +<p>Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of +hand, cast on 3 stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick +up 3 stitches at base of second finger, making 18 stitches in +all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed for 2d finger, knit 25 more +rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow off as thumb.</p> + +<p>Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1 +needle, 6 stitches from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches +at base of 3d finger on 3d needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 +stitches, then narrow off as the thumb.</p> + +<p>These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right +glove in same way to where you divide the stitches for the +fingers; then remember that the palm of the glove must be +toward you, the thumb on the right-hand side. So you +would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit 7 +from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left +glove.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childrens_Knitted_Sets" id="Childrens_Knitted_Sets"></a>Children's Knitted Sets</h2> + + +<h3>Set No. 1</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr008-1.jpg" width="400" height="333" alt="Set No. 1" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Set No. 1</span> +</div> + +<p>Hood.—Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for +70 rows, or 35 ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs, +and bind off evenly. Sew up the edge where you cast on for +the back of the hood. Fold the border back its width, and +pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6 ribs back of +it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and +the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit +4, over, narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row +forms the holes for the cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more +ribs and bind off.</p> + +<p>The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any +number of stitches, and knitting just half that number of +ribs.</p> + +<p>Scarf.—Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf); +knit 14 ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of +blue; then knit 34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue +with the other end as at first, reversing the order. Knot +fringe of the two colors in at each end.</p> + +<p>Sweater.—Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or +double rib) for two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 +ribs, if you knit back and forth; the model was knitted forward +and purled back, to give the work the appearance of +plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches for +sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other +sleeve; knit 30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches +off on an extra needle, bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on +the remaining 65 stitches work 12 rows; then cast on 13 +stitches toward the front and on this length knit 28 rows, +bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the +remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the +other front to correspond, slip all the stitches on one +needle, knit until the front is as long as the back, and +finish with the double rib for two inches; bind off evenly.</p> + +<p>Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve +and knit back and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the +sleeves and underarm seams and turn back the cuffs.</p> + +<p>For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck, +knit 8 rows of gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.</p> + +<p>Work around edge of collar and down the front opening +with double crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with +cord, ends finished with balls or tassels.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + + +<h3>Set No. 2</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 331px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr009-1.jpg" width="331" height="400" alt="Set No. 2" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Set No. 2</span> +</div> + +<p>Jacket.—Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; +cast on 26 stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 +stitches for the other sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 +stitches, bind off 18 stitches for the neck, knit remaining 43 +stitches, and on these continue with the front. Knit 6 rows, +then continue knitting back and forth, adding a stitch at +the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will +give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then +bind off 26 stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond +with the back.</p> + +<p>Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and +underarm seams, work around the neck with double crochet, +in color, 1 chain between, and around the body of the +jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch, miss space of +two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3 +chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and +between 1st and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. +Finish edge of sleeves in the same way, and run in cord and +balls.</p> + +<p>For the Hood.—Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 +ribs of color and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood +where cast on, finish around the neck with double crochet, +space of 2 chain between, using color, work the shells around +front of hood, and finish with the shells of gray, as for +jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of +yarn.</p> + +<p>The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary +chain or, as preferred because stronger, knotted by what is +called the "fool's delight" method, although why named +thus it is impossible to say. Surely it seems a very sensible +way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as the cord is +wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the +other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends +of yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger +of one hand, say the right, with the yarn which pulls +through the knot under the same hand, and the loop which +was formed held on the forefinger; hold the yarn which does +not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the left hand +through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, +catch up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand +thread—exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in crochet—transfer +the knot (which ties the two ends together) +to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop +over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the +position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the +same in the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue +by passing the forefinger of right hand through the loop, +catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through +to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the +knot and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and +when one has learned to make it evenly and well, it will be +found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles +requiring a drawstring or cord.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Serviceable_Sweater" id="A_Serviceable_Sweater"></a>A Serviceable Sweater</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 366px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr010-1.jpg" width="366" height="450" alt="A Serviceable Sweater" title="" /> +<span class="caption">A Serviceable Sweater</span> +</div> + +<p>Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5 +needles, with one pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes +or numbers of needles vary, and also do methods of knitting, +it is a good plan to work a little block before beginning +the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and +purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. +There should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven +rows should make an inch in length. If you get less, use +larger needles, say No. 6.</p> + +<p>It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so +that you will become familiar with it and can narrow or +widen and still keep the ridge. Cast on any number of +stitches divisible by four, with one stitch over, knit 2, purl +2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All rows are +the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a +ridge. When you come to the decreasing later you can tell +whether you are keeping the pattern correct, by watching +the knitted stitch, which forms a sort of chain right on top +of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.</p> + +<p>Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles +and knit 12 rows plain for the band at lower edge.</p> + +<p>13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up +the front), * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last +stitch.</p> + +<p>14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting +last 10. Repeat these two rows until you have 110 +rows in all.</p> + +<p>111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.</p> + +<p>112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.</p> + +<p>113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.</p> + +<p>115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.</p> + +<p>117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.</p> + +<p>119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of +end, knit these.</p> + +<p>121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.</p> + +<p>123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.</p> + +<p>125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.</p> + +<p>126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, +knit these.</p> + +<p>130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.</p> + +<p>Continue to work until you have completed the 171st +row, doing the odd rows like the 123d and even rows like +130th, when you should have 23 stitches on the needle. +From this point work until you have completed the 183d +row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows +by knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. +You should then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one +plain row (the 184th) and bind off.</p> + +<p>Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.</p> + +<p>13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting +last stitch.</p> + +<p>14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl +1, knit 10. Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in +all.</p> + +<p>28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches +remaining, knit 3, bind off 3, knit 4.</p> + +<p>29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. +This forms the buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at +equal distances apart, and begin the narrowing for collar in +the 11th row, continuing like left front.</p> + +<p>Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then +work in the pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which +brings the work to the armhole.</p> + +<p>121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, +taking care to keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven +times, when you will have taken 8 stitches from each side. +Knit 48 rows in pattern +on the remaining +63 stitches.</p> + +<p>177, 178. Knit in +pattern until within 7 +stitches of the end; +turn, leaving these +stitches on left-hand +needle without +knitting.</p> + +<p>179, 180. Knit in +pattern to within +13 stitches of the +end (including the 7 +stitches previously +left), turn.</p> + +<p>181, 182. Knit in +pattern to within 19 +stitches of end, turn.</p> + +<p>183. Knit 4, narrow, +(knit 5, narrow) twice, +knit rest plain, to end +of needle.</p> + +<p>184. Knit plain +entirely across, and +bind off.</p> + +<p>Sleeves. Cast on +97 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. Knit 40, * purl +2, knit 2, repeat from +* 3 times, purl 1, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Slip 1, knit 1, * +purl 2, knit 2, repeat +from * 4 times, knit +1, turn.</p> + +<p>3. Slip 1, knit 1, * +purl 2, knit 2, repeat +from * 5 times, purl 2, +knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>4. Slip 1, purl 1, * +knit 2, purl 2, repeat +from * 7 times, knit +1, turn.</p> + +<p>5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, +knit 3, turn.</p> + +<p>6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, +knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 +times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, +knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, +knit 3, turn.</p> + +<p>10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 +times, knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 +times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until +but 7 stitches remain, turn.</p> + +<p>13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.</p> + +<p>14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting +last stitch.</p> + +<p>15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting +last stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at +beginning and end of every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, +then knit without decreasing until you have 120 rows, +counting from the 15th row.</p> + +<p>Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the +sleeve-stitches as follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, +(narrow, knit 1) 14 times, narrow, knit 2, to end of row.</p> + +<p>Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.</p> + +<p>Pockets.—With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. Knit 1, * knit 2, +purl 2, repeat from * +across, ending with +knit 2.</p> + +<p>2. Slip 1, * purl 2, +knit 2, repeat, ending +with purl 1, knit 1.</p> + +<p>3. Slip 1, * knit 2, +purl 2, repeat, ending +with knit 2.</p> + +<p>Repeat last two +rows until you have +32 rows in pattern, +then knit 10 rows +plain for top of pocket +and bind off.</p> + +<p>To make up the +coat, first press the +border of fronts; +stretch into shape, +pin to an ironing-board, +cover with a +damp cloth and press +with a fairly hot iron +until the cloth is dry. +This will prevent the +coat from drawing up, +as the ribs are inclined +to do. For sewing, +use a blunt-pointed +needle to +avoid splitting the +wool. Sew up the +side and shoulder-seams, +taking a stitch +from each edge and +keeping the edges perfectly +even, being careful +not to draw the +sewing-yarn so tightly +as to pucker the seam +in the least. Sew +up the sleeves, and +place the sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, +easing in any fulness there is around the top. +Place the center of collar at center of back before +sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the +collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the +ridges, and sew on five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths +of an inch in diameter, to correspond with the buttonholes, +placing a small pearl button at the back of the +larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both +together.</p> + +<p>This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to +hem. It may easily be made longer, if desired, but the +model is an excellent one for ordinary wear, and very +"natty," and it has the merit of being quickly knitted.</p> + +<p>As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting +a sweater in any stitch, is to have a pattern and work to +fit that. First, have a coat cut from any old cloth, and of +any style desired. Seam it up and try it on, having it fitted +nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart. Fasten +the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks +and knit to measure, without stretching your work.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Ladies_Sweater" id="Ladies_Sweater"></a>Ladies' Sweater</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr011-1.jpg" width="310" height="450" alt="Ladies' Sweater" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ladies' Sweater</span> +</div> + +<p>This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, +and four balls of Angora; electric blue for the body of +the garment, and gray Angora were combined in the model, +but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The work is +done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. +With the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 +stitches for the back, which will measure about twenty-four +inches, and knit 48 ribs, or 96 rows. Next row, * narrow, +knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No. 12 steel needles +and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the belt. +Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 +stitch at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 +ribs plain, or without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 +stitches, slip them on to a spare needle, bind off 21 stitches +for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches, knit 4 ribs; then +cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs, increase 1 +stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22 +ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt +as directed for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from +front edge. Having completed the belt—20 rows of triple +rib—change to No. 5 needles; * knit 4, increase 1 stitch, +repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off on the wrong +side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting buttonholes +if these are used.</p> + +<p>For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick +up 1 stitch on each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in +all; knit 8 ribs, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle +every 8th rib, eight times. Change to steel needles and +knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the larger (No. 5) needles, +* knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12 ribs, join +the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.</p> + +<p>Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, +cast on 65 stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, +knit 11 rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end of needle every +other row, and bind off. Working on right side of collar +pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11 rows, increasing +1 stitch every other row toward the corner and +keeping the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other +side of collar to correspond and sew up the mitered corners. +The border of Angora wool may be as much wider as one +chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.</p> + +<p>Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted—either +knitted or crocheted—and furnished with a loop +sewed on each side, are used to fasten the belt.</p> + +<p>For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry +the yarn, make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch +of chain make 8 doubles; in next round make 2 doubles in +each stitch, working in both veins so there will be no rib; +then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. +Continue to work around and around until you have a circle +which will cover the button-mold—5 rounds in all were required +for top of buttons used on model, work around without +widening, slip in the mold, then * miss 1, a double in +next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If preferred, +knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and +use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and +fastening underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 +stitches, turn and make a double in each stitch; fasten securely +beneath the button.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Ladies_Knitted_Gloves" id="Ladies_Knitted_Gloves"></a>Ladies' Knitted Gloves +with Fancy Backs</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 268px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr012-1.jpg" width="268" height="400" alt="Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs</span> +</div> + +<p>Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or +worsted. Cast on 57 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, +narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat twice.</p> + +<p>2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.</p> + +<p>3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; +repeat.</p> + +<p>4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; +repeat.</p> + +<p>5. Same as 4th row.</p> + +<p>6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, +narrow, purl 2, take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate +needle, hold this at back of work, knit next 3 stitches, then +knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.</p> + +<p>Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed +every 6th row, until the wrist is seven patterns in length. +Then carry one cable up back of hand, with an openwork +stripe each side, and knit plain across palm.</p> + +<p>Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are +right and left, care must be taken in starting the thumb so +that both will not be for the same hand. On the left-hand +glove the thumb is started at right of the stripe, on the +right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with +widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit +3, widen; continue in this way until you have widened the +thumb to 17 stitches. Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle +cast on 7 stitches, join and knit once around, in each of +next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches, arrange the +stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow +at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these +on 2 needles and bind off.</p> + +<p>Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on +at base of thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and +divide the stitches on 2 needles, or, if more convenient, take +them off on a twine. For the little finger: Take 8 stitches +from back needle and 8 from front, and cast on 6 stitches, +knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches in each +of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end of +each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles +and bind off.</p> + +<p>First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little +finger, knit to the middle, take 8 stitches from each side +next the thumb, cast on 6 stitches for inside of finger, knit +once around plain, in next 4 rounds narrow off 1 of the 6 +stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish off as +before.</p> + +<p>Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first +finger, knit them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little +finger, putting these on separate needle, 9 stitches from +other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit until you get to those left +for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1 of the 6 each time +around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches, and +finish off as directed.</p> + +<p>Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit +around plain, proceed as directed for third finger, knit two +and three-fourths inches plain and finish off.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Knitted_Slippers_with" id="Knitted_Slippers_with"></a>Knitted Slippers with +Ermine Trimming</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr012-2.jpg" width="350" height="170" alt="Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown +yarn, two colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink +and white yarn, with a little black, and pink ribbon are +used for the slippers illustrated.</p> + +<p>Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size +steel needles. Knit back and forth until you have a perfect +square of white, then join the color. The square is for the +toe of slipper.</p> + +<p>Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a +strip long enough to extend around the sole of slipper and +join to the square on other side, leaving two sides and one +corner for the toe.</p> + +<p>Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand +corner, bring the needle through the first two ribs and +down between next two, miss three ribs, keeping the long +thread on the wrong side, and repeat, having every other +row alternate. This may be done before the strip is joined +to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the +sole, using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The +strip should be stretched somewhat during the sewing, in +order to make the slipper cling well to the foot.</p> + +<p>For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit +plain, back and forth, until the strip is long enough to go +around the top. Darn with the black yarn, making three +rows, over one rib and under three, alternating the stitches. +Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on the bows.</p> + +<p>These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty +and may be made to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper +cast on an additional number of stitches for the square, +which will make the strip proportionally wider; knit it long +enough for the larger sole, and make the border wider, if +desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less stitches, following +the same general directions.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Babies_Long_Bootees" id="Babies_Long_Bootees"></a>Babies' Long Bootees</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 246px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr013-2.jpg" width="246" height="400" alt="Babies' Long Bootees" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Babies' Long Bootees</span> +</div> + +<p>Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white, +and two steel knitting-needles, No. 14, are required +for these bootees.</p> + +<p>With color, cast on 57 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. Knit plain.</p> + +<p>2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and +bind, knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end +of row.</p> + +<p>3. Purl.</p> + +<p>Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; +with white repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 +rows plain with color and 2 rows plain with white.</p> + +<p>With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).</p> + +<p>With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows +in single rib; repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows +plain, with color.</p> + +<p>With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; +this gives the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.</p> + +<p>Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit +2, * over 3 times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of +row. Purl back, dropping 2 of the "overs."</p> + +<p>Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit +15 rows in single rib, completing the leg.</p> + +<p>For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join +in the color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With +white knit 1 row and purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. +Repeat last 8 rows three times, which will give four white +stripes and the same of narrow ones, in color; again knit +forward and back with color.</p> + +<p>For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on +right-hand needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the +side of instep, knit 21 across instep, pick up 17 on other +side and knit the 18 stitches on left needle. Knit back and +forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the foot and +back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.</p> + +<p>These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as +well as pretty. The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, +so they are not likely to slip down and off the little feet.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Knitted_Mittens" id="Childs_Knitted_Mittens"></a>Child's Knitted Mittens</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr013-1.jpg" width="284" height="400" alt="Child's Knitted Mittens" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Knitted Mittens</span> +</div> + +<p>Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you +knit tight or loose. No. 17 is a good average size. +Cast 18 stitches on each of three needles.</p> + +<p>Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, +say two inches.</p> + +<p>For the pattern, knit as follows:</p> + +<p>1. Purl.</p> + +<p>2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.</p> + +<p>These 4 rows are repeated throughout.</p> + +<p>Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the +wrist; to widen pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, +knit 1, widen, and continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in +pattern, and again widen, knit 3, widen, across base of +thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches between +the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible +to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the +thumb. Knit around twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches +off on a strong thread.</p> + +<p>Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the +thumb cast on 7 stitches, or one third the number widened +for the thumb. Continue knitting the hand to the tip of the +little finger, then commence narrowing. The manner in +which this is done depends on the shape of the hand to be +fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, +and knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and +knit 4 times around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times +around; every 2d stitch and knit twice around; then narrow, +knit 1, repeat around, knit once around, narrow every +stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and +securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten +on the wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, +since it makes it wear longer, especially if intended for +rough usage. The narrowing of a child's mitten may begin +with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is long and slender, +an additional row may be knitted between the widenings +for the thumb.</p> + +<p>Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with +the 3d pick up and knit the stitches across the hand, which +were cast on. When knitting around the first time, narrow +once each end of the picked-up stitches.</p> + +<p>Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern +until you reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, +beginning with once in 3 stitches. Draw through the last +stitches at tip and darn down.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Knee-Cap" id="Knee-Cap"></a>Knee-Cap</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 275px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr014-2.jpg" width="275" height="450" alt="Knee-Cap" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Knee-Cap</span> +</div> + +<p>Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic +twinges, appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them +will make a most acceptable gift to grandpa or grandma. +No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn were used for +the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as desired, +by choosing coarser or finer yarn.</p> + +<p>Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit +around 30 times in single rib—that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. +You are now ready to begin the gore, which may +be done in single rib, like the rest, or in basket-stitch (or +other fancy pattern) as in the model.</p> + +<p>Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches +idle; take a stitch from each side every time across until but +42 stitches are left on both idle needles. Narrow at the end +of the busy needle each time until but 26 stitches are left +on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches on the selvage at +each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three needles, +and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on +each of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind +off loosely, and finish with a simple crocheted border of +chain-loops or shells caught down in every other stitch.</p> + +<p>To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat +for 3 rows, then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing +the 2 plain stitches exactly in the center of the 6 purled +stitches of previous rows. This change, made after each +plain row, gives the woven- or basket-effect, and the pattern +is a very pretty one for sweaters.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Wristers_or_Pulse-Warmers" id="Wristers_or_Pulse-Warmers"></a>Wristers or Pulse-Warmers</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr014-1.jpg" width="300" height="297" alt="Wristers or Pulse-Warmers" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Wristers or Pulse-Warmers</span> +</div> + +<p>Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on +a cold day, and those described particularly so, as +they fill the sleeve and completely exclude the wind. Using +knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or quality +with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for +a man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 +needles, and knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, +according to length required. Bind off loosely.</p> + +<p>With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top +to bottom, putting a treble in every other stitch and 2 +chain-stitches between trebles; after the last treble at the +edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the next.</p> + +<p>Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in +1st space, 3 in next, and repeat, working back and forth +until all the spaces are filled. A very attractive finish is to +work a row of doubles in color, making a double in each +treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be prettily used +for this finish.</p> + +<p>A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described +by holding a pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, +and with the right sewing over and over it; make the rows +quite close together, cut the wound yarn open with a pair +of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and forth, +until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Motor-Scarf" id="Motor-Scarf"></a>Motor-Scarf</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr014-3.jpg" width="286" height="400" alt="Motor-Scarf" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Motor-Scarf</span> +</div> + +<p>This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred +colors of Shetland floss. Use wooden needles +and cast on 100 stitches with pink.</p> + +<p>1, 3. Purl.</p> + +<p>2. Knit plain.</p> + +<p>4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending +with knit 3.</p> + +<p>5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.</p> + +<p>6. Knit plain.</p> + +<p>7, 9. With white, purl.</p> + +<p>8, 10. Knit plain.</p> + +<p>Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The +sides are finished with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, +well drawn out, in the center of the pink stripe, and fastening +in center of white stripe with 1 double.</p> + +<p>Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and +composed of 10 threads each of pink and white.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Sport_Scarf" id="Sport_Scarf"></a>Sport Scarf</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr015-1.jpg" width="300" height="450" alt="Sport Scarf" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sport Scarf</span> +</div> + +<p>A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a +body color, with deep cream-color, green and rose in +combination with the brown for stripes. Using No. +3½ or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back +and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color +and knit (4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 +rows of cream, (2 of brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of +brown; join in green, (4 rows of green, 2 of brown) 3 times; +10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3 times; 64 rows of +brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2 of +brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse +from *, making the other end of scarf as directed for +first half.</p> + +<p>For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and +knot a strand in each stitch.</p> + +<p>For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on +48 or 50 stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting +will give work much more open. If desired one may introduce +rows of fancy knitting instead of the colored stripes. +In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will find it possible +to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a +pleasing study.</p> + +<p>Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton +with the Shetland floss or other wool which may be +chosen.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Scarf_in_Lattice-Stitch" id="Scarf_in_Lattice-Stitch"></a>Scarf in Lattice-Stitch</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 342px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr015-2.jpg" width="342" height="450" alt="Scarf in Lattice-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Scarf in Lattice-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p>Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as +many stitches as required for width of scarf, using a +multiple of 6 with 2 over.</p> + +<p>Knit back and forth 6 times.</p> + +<p>7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.</p> + +<p>8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, +(drop the "overs," and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip +the 6 long stitches to left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over +1st 3, knitting each, then knit the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting +1 at end of row. Take care the long stitches are not +twisted.</p> + +<p>9. 10, 11. Knit plain.</p> + +<p>Repeat from 7th row.</p> + +<p>Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and +tassel, or a bow of ribbon, as preferred.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Knitting_for_the_Red_Cross" id="Knitting_for_the_Red_Cross"></a>Knitting for the Red Cross</h2> + +<p class='center'>(Official Red Cross Photographs)</p> + +<h3>Sleeveless Sweater</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;"><a name="Illustration_Sleeveless_Sweater" id="Illustration_Sleeveless_Sweater"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr016-1.jpg" width="281" height="450" alt="Sleeveless Sweater" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sleeveless Sweater</span> +</div> + + +<p>Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (¾ pound), +fivefold, and a pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 +Red Cross needles will be needed; 11 stitches should measure +two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2 stitches +for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches. +Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit +28 stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 +stitches. Knit plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches +for 4 inches. Sew up sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes. +Two rows single crochet around neck and 1 row single crochet +around armholes.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr017-3.jpg" width="450" height="134" alt="Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together</span> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>Washcloth</h3> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 271px;"><a name="Illustration_Washcloth" id="Illustration_Washcloth"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr016-2.jpg" width="271" height="300" alt="Washcloth" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Washcloth</span> +</div> + + +<p>White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red +Cross needles No. 1.</p> + +<p>Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth +is about 10 inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape +to one corner.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>Service Sock</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 175px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr017-1.jpg" width="175" height="300" alt="Service Sock" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Service Sock</span> +</div> + +<p>A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn +for two pairs, with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches +on each of 2 needles, and 20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ +inches.</p> + +<p>Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra +stitch and purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at +back of leg, knit plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain +and purling the seam stitch for four inches.</p> + +<p>Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, +purl the seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped +stitch over, and knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing +as directed every 6th round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing +for one inch.</p> + +<p>For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch, +and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, +for 25 rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the +heel, slip the 1st stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, +purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, +turn; slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, +narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, +purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip +1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit +9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, +purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit +1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1, +turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, +purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit +14, narrow. Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down +side of heel next to needle just finished, knitting +each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the +needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down +other side of heel; then knit on with these half +the stitches left at top of heel.</p> + +<p>Knit 1 round plain; narrow the +2d round as follows: On 1st side +needle knit to within 3 of end, +narrow, knit 1; knit across front +needle; on side needle knit 1, +slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch +over, and knit to end. Decrease +in this manner every 2d round +until there are 15 stitches on each +side needle, reducing them to correspond +with the front needle, and +making 10 narrowings for the +instep.</p> + +<p>Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe +in the following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, +narrow, knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit +to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, +slip and bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat +last 3 rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between +three times, and after that decrease every row until there +are but 4 stitches on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing +the toe together and darning in with a worsted-needle.</p> +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>One-Piece Helmet</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 257px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr017-2.jpg" width="257" height="350" alt="One-Piece Helmet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">One-Piece Helmet</span> +</div> + +<p>One hank of yarn (¼ pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.</p> + +<p>Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for +front piece, and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece +to correspond for back. These pieces must be at least 9 +inches wide. Slip the stitches of both pieces on to 3 needles, +arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to be on beginning +of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added +(making 40 on 1st needle).</p> + +<p>Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36—36.</p> + +<p>Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. +Then on 1st needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 +stitches for face opening. (Try to keep same arrangement +of stitches on needles for further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 +forward and back on remaining 90 stitches for 1½ inches, +always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22 stitches loosely +to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½ inches +(adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st +needle, making 42 on 1st needle).</p> + +<p>Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit +2 stitches together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 +rows plain. Then knit 2 stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 +together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows +plain. Continue in this +way, narrowing on every +fifth round and reducing +number of stitches +between narrowed stitches +by 2 (as 7, 5, 3, etc.) +until you have 28 +stitches left on needles. +Divide on 2 needles, +having 14 on 1st needle +and 14 on the other.</p> + +<p>Break off yarn, leaving +12-inch end. Thread +into worsted-needle and +proceed to weave the +front and back together +as follows:</p> + +<p>* Pass worsted-needle +through 1st stitch +of front knitting-needle +as if knitting, and slip +stitch off—pass through +2d stitch as if purling—leave stitch on, pass thread through +1st stitch of back needle as if purling, slip stitch off, pass +thread through 2d stitch of back needle as if knitting, +leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the stitches are +off the needle.</p> +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>Muffler</h3> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 255px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr018-1.jpg" width="255" height="400" alt="Muffler" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Muffler</span> +</div> + +<p>Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair +amber needles No. 5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will +be required. Cast on 50 stitches, measuring 11 inches, and +knit back and forth until the muffler is sixty-eight inches +in length.</p> +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>Hot-Water-Bottle Cover</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 211px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr018-2.jpg" width="211" height="350" alt="Hot-Water-Bottle Cover" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Hot-Water-Bottle Cover</span> +</div> + +<p>White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red +Cross needles No. 1.</p> + +<p>Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the +work is 4 inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for +9½ inches more, or until entire work measures 13½ inches. +Next decrease 2 stitches at beginning and 2 stitches at end +of each needle until there are sixteen stitches left, and bind +off. Make another piece in same manner and sew together. +Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing +to tie around neck of bottle.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>Helmet Made in Two Parts</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr019-1.jpg" width="360" height="400" alt="Helmet Made in Two Parts" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Helmet Made in Two Parts</span> +</div> + +<p>One hank of yarn (¼ +pound); 1 pair Red +Cross Needles No. 2.</p> + +<p>The helmet is made in +two parts, which afterward +are sewed together.</p> + +<p><b>Front of Helmet.</b>—Cast +on 48 stitches (11 +inches), knit plain for 25 +ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, +purl 2 for 35 rows. On the +next row the opening for +the face is made as follows: +Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl +2, knit 2, knit and bind off +loosely the next 28 stitches +and purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, +knit 2, purl 2. Run the +stitches before the opening +on a spare needle and +on the stitches at the other +side of opening knit 2, purl +2 for 12 rows. The last +row will end at the opening, +and at that point cast +on 28 stitches to offset those +bound off. Begin at the +face opening of stitches on +spare needle and knit 2, +purl 2 for 12 rows. At the +end of the 12th row continue +all across to the end +of other needle, when +there should be 48 stitches +on needle as at first. +Knit 2, purl 2 for 24 rows.</p> + +<p><b>Top of Helmet.</b>—Knit +2, narrow (knitting 2 +stitches together), knit 14, +narrow, knit 14, narrow, +knit 12. Purl the entire +next row. On the 3d row +knit 2, narrow, knit 13, +narrow, knit 13, narrow, +knit 11. Purl 4th row. On +the 5th row knit 2, narrow, +knit 12, narrow, knit 12, +narrow, knit 10. Purl 6th +row. Continue to narrow +in the 3 places every plain +knitted row with 1 stitch +less between narrowings +until 9 stitches are left.</p> + +<p><b>Back of Helmet.</b>—Work +in same manner as for +front but omit the face +opening. Sew the stitches +of upper edges together +with joining-stitch. Sew +up the side seams, leaving +the plain knitting at shoulders +open.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 168px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr019-2.jpg" width="168" height="400" alt="Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet</span> +</div> + +<p>The thumbless mitt or wristlet +requires one half hank of +knitting-yarn, gray, with No. 2 +Red Cross needles or No. 11 or +No. 12 steel needles. Nine stitches +measure one inch. Cast on 48 +stitches and knit 2, purl 2, for +12 inches; bind off and sew up, +leaving an opening for the thumb +two inches in length, three inches +from one end. The ordinary +wristlets or pulse-warmers are +knitted in the same way, 8½ +inches long, and sewed up with +no thumb-opening.</p> + +<p>Wristlets made in one piece require +one half hank of yarn, +and 4 bone needles No. 3, or +steel needles No. 12. Cast on +52 stitches on 3 needles; 16-16-20. +Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 +inches. To make opening for +thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end +of "Third" needle, turn; knit +and purl back to end of "First" +needle, always slipping first +stitch, turn. Continue knitting +back and forth for 2 inches. +From this point continue as +at first for 4 inches for the hand. +Bind off loosely; buttonhole +thumb-opening.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>Bed-Sock</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 120px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr019-3.jpg" width="120" height="400" alt="Bed-sock" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Bed-sock</span> +</div> + +<p>One hank of yarn +(¼ pound) is +required, with Red +Cross needles No. +2 or steel needles +No. 11 or 12.</p> + +<p>Cast 48 stitches +on three needles, +16 on each. Knit +plain and loosely +for 20 inches. +Decrease every +other stitch by +knitting two +stitches together +until you have +12 stitches on +each of two needles +opposite each +other. Break off +yarn and weave +stitches together +as per directions +for finishing one-piece +helmet.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Drawers-Leggings" id="Childs_Drawers-Leggings"></a>Child's Drawers-Leggings, +Knitted</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr020-1.jpg" width="281" height="450" alt="Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are six hanks of Germantown +wool, a pair of bone needles No. 4, and a pair of steel +needles, No. 15.</p> + +<p>Cast on 68 stitches.</p> + +<p>1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.</p> + +<p>17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, +turn.</p> + +<p>18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.</p> + +<p>Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches +forward each row and knitting back on the same, until you +have 36 stitches on the needle. Knit back on these 36 +stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side of the work. +Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.</p> + +<p>Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 +ridges (not counting the 6 ridges at one side of work); in +next row narrow once at each end of row, and continue in +this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you have 50 +stitches remaining on the needle.</p> + +<p>Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the +cable-twist of ankle, thus:</p> + +<p>1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit +6, then knit the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the +twist, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, +knit 6, knit the 3 stitches from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, +turn.</p> + +<p>2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, +purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.</p> + +<p>3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, +purl 2, knit 7.</p> + +<p>Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the +twist, as directed in 1st row, every 6th row.</p> + +<p>For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back +8 stitches on these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and +forth until you have 8 ridges. Pick up the stitches around +edge of instep, and work back and forth along the entire +row for 4 ridges; bind off.</p> + +<p>Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams +and join the two by the middle seam.</p> + +<p>Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the +drawstrings, thus:</p> + +<p>1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; +repeat around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.</p> + +<p>2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten +in next; repeat.</p> + +<p>Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with +tassels.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Knitted_Hood_for" id="A_Knitted_Hood_for"></a>A Knitted Hood for +Miss Dolly</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 298px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr020-2.jpg" width="298" height="400" alt="A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly" title="" /> +<span class="caption">A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly</span> +</div> + +<p>Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 +stitches; knit plain back and forth until you have 10 +single ribs, then bind off 6, knit across to within 6 stitches +of the end and bind off these. This is for the front or turnover +of the hood.</p> + +<p>Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming +holes in which to run ribbon.</p> + +<p>Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 +extra stitches distributed along the front near the top in +order to make the back a trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row +and knit 1 row for a triple rib; repeat from * 16 times, always +slipping the 1st stitch of each row to give a good +selvage.</p> + +<p>Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure +that this is done on the wrong side, and just before knitting +the last row of last rib, as the binding off finishes the +rib and is essential in keeping all the ribs the same.</p> + +<p>Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple +ribs described. Widen twice each end of crown needle +during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number of ribs as the front, +narrowing once or twice each end of needle near extreme +end of crown.</p> + +<p>Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of +crown and fronts, about 18 stitches on each of the latter +and alternate loops on the crown; knit across with blue, +making a row of holes as on the front; knit 6 or 7 single ribs, +and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at lower edge of +front.</p> + +<p>Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces +made for it and tighten slightly, and finish with ties and +bows of ribbon.</p> + +<p>By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the +crown proportionately larger, these directions will be +found to serve admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a +hood as wanted.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Lesson_in_Crochet" id="A_Lesson_in_Crochet"></a>A Lesson in Crochet</h2> + + +<p>The stitches and terms given herewith are +such as are in general use, and were +taught the writer by an English teacher of +crocheting, herself a professional in the art. +In some periodicals and books, the real slip-stitch +is omitted, and the single is called +slip-stitch; the double is called single, the +treble is called double, the double treble is +called treble, and so on.</p> + +<p>There are different ways of holding the +crochet-needle and carrying the thread, and +many consider one way as good as another +unless, as is usually the case, one's own +method is thought a little the best. The +following instructions were given by the +English teacher in question, and are those +commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the +right hand very much as you hold a pen when +writing, letting the handle extend between +the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and +hold the needle. Hold nothing but the +latter in the right hand, not allowing the +fingers of that hand to so much as rest on +the work. Hold work with thumb and second +finger of left hand, letting the thread pass +over the forefinger, slightly raised, or held up +from the work, under the second, over the +third and under the little finger. These +instructions are especially good for using +yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work +as soft and fluffy as possible.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_1"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr021-1.jpg" width="400" height="308" alt="Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p><b>The chain.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_1">Figure 1.</a>) Make a loop of +thread around the needle, take up the +thread and draw through this loop (that +is, push the hook under the thread that +passes over the forefinger, draw it back, +catching the thread, and pull this through +the loop on the needle), forming a new +stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw +through this, and so continue until the +chain is of the length required, tightening +each loop as drawn through, so that all +will be of uniform size and smoothness. +After a little practise one does this without +thought. When abbreviations are +used, that for chain is ch.</p> + +<p><b>The slip-stitch</b> is properly a close joining +stitch: Drop the stitch on the needle, +insert hook through the stitch of work to +which you wish to join, take up the +dropped stitch and pull through, thus +making a close fastening. This stitch is +sometimes used to "slip" along certain +portions of the work, from one to another +point, but single crochet is more often employed +for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_2"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr021-2.jpg" width="400" height="187" alt="Figure 2. Single Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 2. Single Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Single crochet</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_2">Figure 2</a>, frequently +called slip-stitch, and sometimes mitten-stitch) +is made thus: Having a stitch on +needle, insert hook in work, take up the +thread and draw it through the work and +the stitch on the needle at the same time. +The abbreviation is s c.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_3"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr021-3.jpg" width="400" height="241" alt="Figure 3. Double Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 3. Double Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Double crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_3">Figure 3</a>). Having +a stitch on needle, insert hook in work, +take up thread and draw through, giving you +two stitches on the needle; take up thread +and draw through the two stitches. The +abbreviation is d c. There are many +variations of the double-crochet stitch; +the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is +formed by taking up the back horizontal +loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. +A quite different effect is given when the +hook is inserted under both loops.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_4"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr022-1.jpg" width="400" height="196" alt="Figure 4. Treble Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 4. Treble Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_4">Figure 4.</a>) Having a +stitch on the needle, take up the thread as +if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, +take up thread and draw through, making +three stitches or loops on the needle; * +take up thread and draw through two, +again and draw through two. The abbreviation +of treble crochet, is t c. It will be +noted that the single crochet has one +"draw," the double two, and the treble three, +from which these stitches take their names.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_5"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr022-2.jpg" width="400" height="167" alt="Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Half-treble or short-treble crochet.</b> +Like treble to *; then take up thread and +draw through all three stitches at once.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_6"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr022-3.jpg" width="400" height="211" alt="Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Double-treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_6">Figure 6.</a>) +Having a stitch on the needle, take up +the thread twice, or put it twice over +the needle, insert hook in work, take up +thread and draw through, making four +stitches to be worked off; (take up thread +and draw through two) three times. The +abbreviation of double-treble crochet is d t c.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_7"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr022-4.jpg" width="400" height="283" alt="Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Triple-treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_7">Figure 7.</a>) +Take up thread three times, insert hook +in work, take up thread and draw +through, making five stitches on needle; +work these off two at a time, as in +double treble. The abbreviation is t t c.</p> + +<p>One sometimes has occasion to use other +extra-long stitches, such as quadruple +crochet (over four times before insertion +of hook in work), quintuple crochet (over +five times), and so on, which are worked +off two at a time, exactly as in treble or +double treble. In turning, one chain-stitch +corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches +to a half or short treble, three chain to +a treble, four to a double treble, five to +a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain +for each extra "draw."</p> + +<p><b>Parentheses ( ) and asterisks or stars</b> +* * are used to prevent the necessity of +repetition and save space. They indicate +repeats of like directions. Thus: (Chain +3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times +is equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble +in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, +chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * +chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, repeat +from * twice.</p> + +<p>The worker should be careful in the +selection of a hook. It should be well +made and smooth, and of a size to +carry the wool smoothly, without catching +in and roughening it. If too +large, on the other hand, the work is +apt to be sleazy. Needles that have +been used for some time work more +easily than new ones. If all makes of +crochet-needles were numbered in the +same way the size might be easily +designated; but it happens that no +two manufacturers use like numbers +for the same sizes, hence the rule given +is the best that can be.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Crocheted_Jacket" id="Crocheted_Jacket"></a>Crocheted Jacket</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 207px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr023-1.jpg" width="207" height="450" alt="Crochet Jacket" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Crochet Jacket</span> +</div> + +<p>One color or two may be used for making this pretty +jacket, which is extremely modish, and very comfortable +for the cool days and evenings sure to be experienced +during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold Germantown +will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for +the body and two of white for the border, if made in two +colors.</p> + +<p>Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double +in next; repeat from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double +under next 1 chain; repeat across, turn.</p> + +<p>Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches +long, for the back, bringing the +work to the shoulder.</p> + +<p>Now work back and forth for +one shoulder and front, repeating +2d row until you have made 9 +doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat +until you have made 4 rows.</p> + +<p>In the next row widen by making +2 doubles, 1 chain between, +in center of row, finishing row as +usual; widen in the center of +every 8th row until you have 15 +doubles in the row, then continue +without widening until the +front is of the same length as +the back.</p> + +<p>Leave 8 doubles for back of +neck and on the remaining 9 +doubles work the other front to +correspond.</p> + +<p>For the border: Commence +(with the border-color, if two +colors are used) at corner of +left front, make a treble under +1 chain (chain 3 for 1st treble), +* chain 1, a treble under next 1 +chain; repeat from * all around, +putting 2 trebles with 1 chain +between in same stitch at +corners, and on the shoulders +at the neck to shape the collar.</p> + +<p>Make another row in the same +way, then work in seed-stitch as +you did the body of the jacket +(a double under 1 chain, chain +1) for 8 rows, widening the +same stitches at corners each +time.</p> + +<p>Fold the garment at the +shoulders, bringing fronts and +back together. Commencing +in 10th chain from bottom of +front and back, work in the +usual way for 25 stitches, a +double under each chain. Work +from underarm around the +armscye until the sleeve is 12 +inches in length, or as long as +desired, then make the 2 rows +of spaces, in treble crochet, as before and finish with 7 +rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.</p> + +<p>For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 +for a picot; repeat.</p> + +<p>The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other +fancy stitch may be used that is liked. Among others may +be named Lancaster-stitch, made as follows: Having a +chain of an even number of stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, +turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, +over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw a loop +through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, +over, draw through all the loops on needle, * chain 4, a +double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or +joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same +stitch with last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop +through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, +over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw through +all the loops on needle, and +repeat from *; turn.</p> + +<p>3. A double in 1st space, +double around the thread between +4 chain and cluster; repeat, +ending with a double in +top of 3 chain with which last +row started. Repeat 2d and +3d rows for the pattern.</p> + +<p>The bird's-eye-stitch is +simple and pleasing: Having +a chain of desired length, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 1, a double in each +stitch of chain, turn.</p> + +<p>2. A double in double, taking +front loop of stitch in last row, +a double in next double, taking +back loop; repeat to end, and +repeat 2d row.</p> + +<p>Still another pretty stitch, +easily adjusted to any garment, +is as follows: Chain a +number of stitches divisible by +3, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 1, a double in each +remaining stitch of chain, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 1, a double in each +double of last row, turn.</p> + +<p>3. Chain 1, a double in +each of 2 doubles, * wool +over, insert hook in 3d stitch +of 1st row, take up wool and +draw through, (over, draw +through 2 stitches) twice, +miss 1, a double in each of +next 2 doubles; repeat from +* to end of row, turn.</p> + +<p>4. Same as 2d row.</p> + +<p>5. Chain 1, a double in +each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool +over and make a treble as +before, inserting the hook +under the treble of 3d row, +miss 1, a double in each of 2 +stitches; repeat from * to end, +turn. Repeat 4th and 5th rows.</p> + +<p>And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in +next stitch, repeat to end of row, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in +last row; repeat. Repeat 2d row.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Tam-o-Shanter" id="Tam-o-Shanter"></a>Tam-o'-Shanter +in Double Crochet</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 326px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr024-1.jpg" width="326" height="400" alt="Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p>For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted +and a ball of gray Angora wool, with a +hook large enough to carry the yarn easily.</p> + +<p>Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.</p> + +<p>1. Seven doubles in ring.</p> + +<p>2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of +stitch.</p> + +<p>3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.</p> + +<p>4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.</p> + +<p>5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.</p> + +<p>Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings +each row, until you have 30 doubles in each section—between +widenings—or more, if a larger crown is desired.</p> + +<p>33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p> + +<p>34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p> + +<p>35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p> + +<p>36 to 45. A double in each stitch.</p> + +<p>46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each +stitch and fasten off the last row neatly.</p> + +<p>Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: +Make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain +make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles, working +in both veins of stitch; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, +2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and +around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a +circle which will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then +work once around without widening, slip in the mold, * +miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed.</p> + +<p>For the edge of the button and the cord around top of +band either the double chain may be made, an ordinary +chain filled with double crochet, or—better still—the cord +may be knotted by what is called the "fool's delight" +method—which seems a very sensible method, indeed: +Take a length of the Angora wool six times as long as the +cord is wanted to be; indeed, it will be better to start with +a longer piece, for fear it may "take up" more rapidly than +anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one end of the +yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop, +then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between +thumb and forefinger of one hand (say the right), +with the yarn which pulls through the half knot under the +same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the +forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left +hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on +right forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw +through the non-pulling or left-hand thread—exactly as +you would make a chain-stitch in crochet—transfer the +knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and forefinger +of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and +draw up the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through +the half knot. Now the position of the loop, pulling yarn +and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in +the right. Continue by passing forefinger of right hand +through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the non-pulling +thread and drawing it through to form the new +loop (on right forefinger again), transfer the knot from left +hand to right, and pull up, repeating the process from beginning. +This is really a sort of double chain, and when +one has learned to make it evenly and well—as may be +done with a little practise—it will be found superior for +bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring +or a cord.</p> + +<p>Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, +and the cap is completed.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Ladies_Sleeveless_Jacket" id="Ladies_Sleeveless_Jacket"></a>Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket +or Hug-Me-Tight</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr024-2.jpg" width="400" height="341" alt="Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight</span> +</div> + +<p>Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color, +with a hook large enough to carry the yarn smoothly. +Commence with a chain of 140 stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell +of 3 trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen +for center of back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including +the 3 trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a +shell as before under 2 chain, then a treble in each following +to the end, turn. Work always in back vein of stitch to +produce the ribbed or striped effect.</p> + +<p>3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for +joining.</p> + +<p>Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 +stitches, then fold over and, starting from the other end of +the same row, crochet the two sides together for 25 stitches, +taking a stitch from each side. This will leave about 65 +stitches for armscye.</p> + +<p>For the border:</p> + +<p>1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, +miss 2; repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of +1st shell, and join to that.</p> + +<p>2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell +in previous row, and treble in treble; repeat.</p> + +<p>3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double +between 2 trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, +a double in single treble; repeat.</p> + +<p>Work around the armscye in same way.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Coat_Sweater" id="Childs_Coat_Sweater"></a>Child's Coat Sweater</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr025-1.jpg" width="400" height="340" alt="Child's Coat Sweater" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Coat Sweater</span> +</div> + +<p>Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, +and bone hook size 4, or a hook large enough to +carry the wool easily. The sweater is crocheted in the +length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.</p> + +<p>Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.</p> + +<p>2. A double in each double, working in back vein of +stitch to form a rib.</p> + +<p>3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, +draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting +from hook, and a loop through each of 2 doubles; take up +wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle, chain 1 to +close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made +(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last +perpendicular loop of the same star, and a loop through +each of 2 doubles, close the star by working off all the loops, +chain 1, and repeat to end of row, turn.</p> + +<p>Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, +then a row of star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 +rows of stars and 5 ribs; on next row work 39 stars, then a +rib, and continue until you have 3 rows of 39 star-stitches +each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten the wool +securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all +worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the +2d will not unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib +and fastened in at other end again; then chain 3, and proceed +with the row.</p> + +<p>Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the +1st 6 stitches (equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in +star-stitch; make a rib as directed. Work 2 more rows of +stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving 1 star less at the +top or neck-end each time.</p> + +<p>Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of +the back with single crochet, putting hook through a loop +of each part. If carefully done the joining will not be discernible. +Join under arms, also, leaving the opening for +armholes.</p> + +<p>For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a +double in each stitch, around the entire garment, fronts, +bottom and neck, widening at each of the lower corners in +each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work +around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; +then work around the bottom and across the front border. +The widening for miter is neater. The buttonholes are +made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss 5, and repeat, +making as many openings as desired, at equal distances. +In working back, next row, make also a double in each +stitch of 5 chain.</p> + +<p>For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work +a rib of doubles on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat +until there are 10 rows of star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking +care, as before, that the stars are worked on the right side +always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side with single +crochet, as you did the back.</p> + +<p>For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 +double in each stitch and turn back. Sew the sleeves into +the armholes, and sew on buttons of a size appropriate to +the garment and corresponding with the buttonholes.</p> + +<p>This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired +size by starting with a longer chain and making more +rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep the proportion. The +combination of stitches is a most attractive one.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Jacket" id="Childs_Jacket"></a>Child's Jacket</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr025-2.jpg" width="400" height="242" alt="Child's Jacket" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Jacket</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are three skeins of cream-white +Saxony and one skein of blue or pink, with a bone +hook of suitable size to carry the yarn smoothly.</p> + +<p>Make a chain of 78 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 +stars, widen) twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and +fasten wool, and fasten in again at beginning of row so as to +have all stars made on the right side. Or, one can work +back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st row.</p> + +<p>2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you +widen only every other row, and always exactly in the center. +Keep 8 stars on each front, thus constantly increasing +the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore between 1st and 2d +and 4th and 5th widenings.</p> + +<p>9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st +star on the back, continue the stars across the back, chain +22, and make 8 stars across front again.</p> + +<p>10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain +under each arm.</p> + +<p>11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row, +widening only in center of back every other row, as at +first. This completes the body of the jacket.</p> + +<p>21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool +at left front corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the +front. At the corner make 2 stars as if to widen, in order +to turn the corner neatly, and continue all the way around +to top of right front, not widening at all in the back of +border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.</p> + +<p>22. Stars all around, of color.</p> + +<p>23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain +3, then make 2 trebles in the eye of each star all around, +with 4 trebles in eye of star at corners, so as to make the +work lie smoothly.</p> + +<p>24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, +and make 2 trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with +4 at corners.</p> + +<p>25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.</p> + +<p>26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated +by 2 chain, in which to run cord or ribbon.</p> + +<p>27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.</p> + +<p>28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of +last row.</p> + +<p>29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the +collar.</p> + +<p>30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in +space between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, +collar and all; fasten off neatly.</p> + +<p>For the sleeve:</p> + +<p>1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, +make the required number of stars (not +widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the +chain under the arm.</p> + +<p>2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st +row, making star over star of previous row, +and joining underneath the arm.</p> + +<p>12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch, +only omit taking the stitch under the back +loop of star in last row, and take a loop +through each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus +drawing in the sleeve, and making only 12 +stars in the round.</p> + +<p>13. With the color, make star in star.</p> + +<p>14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye +of each star.</p> + +<p>15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th +rows of border.</p> + +<p>This makes a dainty, soft little garment. +If one likes, treble stitch may be alternated +with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, +after making a row of stars, instead of breaking +the wool, turn, chain 3, and make trebles +across, or the trebles may be crossed to give +a more fancy effect, making a treble in 2d +stitch, then a treble back in preceding stitch.</p> + +<p>Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels +made of both white and color, in the spaces around the neck.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Girls_Jacket" id="Girls_Jacket"></a>Girl's Jacket</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr026-1.jpg" width="400" height="267" alt="Girl's jacket" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Girl's jacket</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown +yarn and 1 skein of blue. Make a chain of +52 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 +double in next; repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops +in all, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in +next loop; repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 +trebles, turn.</p> + +<p>3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double +under next; repeat to end of row.</p> + +<p>Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of +blocks in all, alternating with rows of loops. Divide the +width into three parts, 4 blocks for back of neck and 4 for +each front. Work same as 3d row until you have made +4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back +same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in +next row, to widen, make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain +4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a double between next 2, +chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue across. +The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 +rows of 5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of +back. Make the other front in exactly the same way.</p> + +<p>For the border:</p> + +<p>1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 +blocks), work in blocks down the front, across the bottom, +putting 3 extra trebles at each corner to turn smoothly, up +over shoulder and down back, and so on around to opposite +corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.</p> + +<p>2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of +loops as described, fastening the chains between groups of +3 trebles.</p> + +<p>Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of +jacket, with always the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners +to turn, and following the 2d and 3d rows with the row of +loops in blue.</p> + +<p>For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn +at the back of jacket, at the desired width for sleeve—9 +blocks from top of shoulder, in the model; chain 9, fasten +to front, work around armhole with a row of loops (gray), +making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles +under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat +around, join, and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to +required length; the model has 25 rows of blocks, ending +with the row of loops.</p> + +<p>For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in +8th loop (the 3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work +around as usual to 3d loop from center on other side, turn, +make a row of loops, then a row of blocks. Fasten the blue +yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops; make a +row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue +to match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks +and 3 of blue chain-loops.</p> + +<p>For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st +block made in border, and make 3 trebles in the same +place, make a block in the side of each 3 following blocks, +along the neck toward the back, putting chain 1 between, +2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3 blocks. +Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs, +widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under +each of 2 consecutive loops in outer row. Join at +beginning and end of each row to upper edge of +jacket-border.</p> + +<p>Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double +between blocks, (chain 3, a double in same place) +twice. Crochet a chain of the blue yarn and use this +to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops +as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter +chain for each cuff, lace together and tie in a little +bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is used to draw +in the neck.</p> + +<p>Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The +jacket can be easily made large enough for an adult, +and is beautiful in blue-and-white Saxony for a baby.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Babies_Jacket" id="Babies_Jacket"></a>Babies' Jacket</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr026-2.jpg" width="400" height="291" alt="Babies' Jacket" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Babies' Jacket</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are three skeins of Saxony +yarn, one spool silk-finished crochet-cotton or +crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards of No. 1 +ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.</p> + +<p>Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each +of 96 stitches, drawing up to about five-eighths of an +inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the work will be +done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the +effect is not so good).</p> + +<p>2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles +in top of 3d treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened +in, which makes a cross; repeat, making 32 crosses in all; +break thread and again join in at the end where you began.</p> + +<p>3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over +next 2, 18 trebles over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again +21 over 7, which brings you to end of row. The 12 trebles +over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2 on each cross +and 1 between.</p> + +<p>4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.</p> + +<p>5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). +24 over 4 crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 +over next 4, 21 plain.</p> + +<p>6. Forty-eight crosses.</p> + +<p>7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, +(12 over next 2, 24 plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 +plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.</p> + +<p>8. Fifty-eight crosses.</p> + +<p>9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over +next 2, 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.</p> + +<p>10. Thirty-six crosses.</p> + +<p>11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 +extra over the 6 crosses at center of back.</p> + +<p>12. Forty crosses.</p> + +<p>13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.</p> + +<p>14. Forty-two crosses.</p> + +<p>15. Like 13th row.</p> + +<p>16. Forty-four crosses.</p> + +<p>17. Like 13th row.</p> + +<p>18. Forty-six crosses.</p> + +<p>19. Plain, without widening in the back.</p> + +<p>Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening +in at end of foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble +in next, * chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, and repeat. Now make +a row of crosses entirely around the jacket, putting extra +crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow this with a +row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners +to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles +in a stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with +the crochet-silk, making a double between 1st 2 trebles of +shell, (chain 2, a double between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, +double in double between shells, chain 2, and repeat.</p> + +<p>For the sleeves:</p> + +<p>1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 +over the 12 crosses.</p> + +<p>2. Fourteen crosses.</p> + +<p>3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.</p> + +<p>4. Fifteen crosses.</p> + +<p>5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.</p> + +<p>6. Sixteen crosses.</p> + +<p>7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.</p> + +<p>8. Seventeen crosses.</p> + +<p>9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.</p> + +<p>Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the +body of jacket. Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon +in the neck, and divide the remainder, running it in the 7th +row of sleeve and making a pretty bow on top.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Babys_Shoes_in_Crochet" id="Babys_Shoes_in_Crochet"></a>Baby's Shoes in Crochet</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr027-1.jpg" width="350" height="261" alt="Baby's Shoes in Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Baby's Shoes in Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p>These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or +silk, white or delicate color, or of wool. They are very +firm and neat, and shaped to the foot. The sample pair +was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or coarser material +will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same directions.</p> + +<p>Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 +stitches.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in +end stitch, 1 in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in +last, join.</p> + +<p>2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double +down the side to within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, +1 in next, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each +down side, ending with 2 in 3d stitch from middle of heel, 1 +in next, and 3 in next, join.</p> + +<p>3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in +each down the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in +each of 3, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in +each down side, 2 in 4th stitch from the end, 1 in each of 3, +2 in middle stitch of heel, join.</p> + +<p>4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between +widenings.</p> + +<p>5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, +making 2 trebles with 1 chain between in each of the widenings +of the toe, and 3 trebles, with 1 chain between, at back +of heel.</p> + +<p>6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 +doubles in the widening spaces at side of toe and in the +middle of heel.</p> + +<p>7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as +usual on each side of toe and in the middle, also in middle +of heel; join.</p> + +<p>8. Same as 7th row.</p> + +<p>9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat +around, join to 3d of 4 chain.</p> + +<p>10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow +11 stitches from middle of toe by putting hook through +2 stitches at once, or by missing a stitch, also at middle of +toe, join.</p> + +<p>11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and +narrowing as directed.</p> + +<p>13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing +on the vamp, then turn and work back across vamp, +narrowing at the end, turn.</p> + +<p>14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing +in the middle and at end.</p> + +<p>15, 17. Like 13th row.</p> + +<p>16, 18. Like 14th row.</p> + +<p>19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle +of vamp and on the sides.</p> + +<p>20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in +each stitch.</p> + +<p>21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side +of vamp, 2d row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in +10 stitches, catch in 1st double of side of shoe, a single in +next double on side of shoe, turn; a double in each of 9 +doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 +in each following double, join to next double of side, a single +in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 +at end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, +miss 5, a double in each following double, join to next +double of side, a single in next, turn; double in each double, +with 5 in 5 stitches of chain, turn; chain 1, a double in each +double; join, slip in next double of side, turn; work 5 more +rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other row; then +chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and +double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work +back with double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles +in 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, double in double, join, slip in +next double, turn, work back with double in double, chain +1, turn, and work double in double around to within 14 +stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1, double +in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double +in double around to the other side. Continue thus until +you have worked 6 rows around top of shoe, then make a +buttonhole as before, and finish with 4 rows. The shoe +may be made higher, if desired, and more buttonholes +added.</p> + +<p>For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 +doubles in each double; a double in each double; a double +in every other double; slip in a pearl or porcelain button of +requisite size, draw together, and sew to the shoe, matching +the position of the buttonholes.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Ribbed_House-Slippers" id="Ribbed_House-Slippers"></a>Ribbed House-Slippers</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr028-2.jpg" width="450" height="252" alt="Ribbed House-slipper" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ribbed House-slipper</span> +</div> + +<p>Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate +twist. Commencing at the toe, make a chain of +11 stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 +stitches, 3 doubles in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 +stitches down other side of chain, in same stitches where +the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of +stitch to form the rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 +doubles in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn.</p> + +<p>3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each +side of center, each row.</p> + +<p>6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1, +turn.</p> + +<p>7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.</p> + +<p>Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the +vamp is as deep as desired. If preferred, the widening may +be made every row, putting 2 doubles in one and then the +other, alternately, of the widening doubles.</p> + +<p>For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain +1, turn, a double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue +until you have 44 ribs, or the strip is of sufficient length to +extend easily around the sole; join neatly to 24 doubles on +opposite side of vamp.</p> + +<p>Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the +elastic, thus: Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 +ribs, a triple treble (over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, +a triple treble between next 2, chain 5, repeat from * +around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1, join to 5th of +10 chain.</p> + +<p>For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in +work, over 4 times, pull through, and repeat in each stitch, +pulling the loops out about three-fourths inch, and always +taking yarn next to you to next stitch; make this for bottom +of beading, as well, and the latter will be entirely +covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between +the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for +instep of the same shade as the yarn.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Babys_Bootees" id="Babys_Bootees"></a>Baby's Bootees</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr028-1.jpg" width="289" height="350" alt="No. 1. Baby's Bootees" title="" /> +<span class="caption">No. 1. Baby's Bootees</span> +</div> + +<p>A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, +and is appreciated scarcely less by baby's mamma. +Two very pretty styles are given, one in <span title="Original read 'blue'">pink</span> and white, the +accepted colors for a girlie, the other in <span title="Original read 'pink'">blue</span> and white—<span title="Original read 'pink'">blue</span> +being the color usually chosen for a little son's belongings.</p> + +<p>Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 +stitches, turn.</p> + +<p><b>No. 1.</b> 1.—Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 +stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up +the back loop of stitch to form a rib, turn.</p> + +<p>Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the +last row chain 11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 +stitches of chain and in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, +making 4 of the long ribs, then, working only on the +10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the back of +the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.</p> + +<p>For the upper part of leg:</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining +to top of 3 chain.</p> + +<p>2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through +1st and 3d stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and +draw through the 3 loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to +close the cluster, * draw up a loop in same place with last +and another in 3d stitch, work off as before and repeat +around.</p> + +<p>3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the +space before pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the +space after, work off as before, take a loop in same space as +before, another in next space, work off, and repeat.</p> + +<p>4. Like 3d row, with blue.</p> + +<p>5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.</p> + +<p>7. With blue, a double in each stitch.</p> + +<p>8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each +double, join.</p> + +<p>9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, +chain 3, 1 double in same stitch, miss 1; repeat. +Fasten off neatly.</p> + +<p>For the foot:</p> + +<p>1. With blue make a double in each stitch +all around bottom of leg and instep.</p> + +<p>2. A double in each double, taking up +both veins of stitch to avoid a rib.</p> + +<p>3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.</p> + +<p>5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.</p> + +<p>7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining +the last row with single crochet on the +wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or +with ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on +upper part of leg.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 328px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr029-1.jpg" width="328" height="350" alt="No. 2. Baby's Bootees" title="" /> +<span class="caption">No. 2. Baby's Bootees</span> +</div> + +<p><b>No. 2.</b> Using the white yarn make a chain of 37 +stitches, join.</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.</p> + +<p>2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join. +Repeat 1st, 2d and 3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 +ribs each of pink and white.</p> + +<p>13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, +make a treble in next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming +a crossed treble; repeat around, join.</p> + +<p>14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. +Fasten off securely.</p> + +<p>For the foot:</p> + +<p>1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of +leg, draw up a loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all +on needle; take up yarn and draw through 1st stitch, * +again draw through 2, and repeat until all are worked off; +now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by +working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until +you have again the number of loops on needle; continue +until you have 9 rows of afghan-stitch.</p> + +<p>Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a +double in each stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 +more rows of doubles, 1 in each stitch of preceding row, taking +up both loops to avoid a rib, then 5 rows of pink in the same +way, joining the last row as before directed. Finish with +cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles +around top of bootee.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Sweater_and_Cap" id="A_Sweater_and_Cap"></a>A Sweater and Cap +for Dolly</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 385px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr029-2.jpg" width="385" height="400" alt="Sweater and Cap for Dolly" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sweater and Cap for Dolly</span> +</div> + +<p>One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for +two sets; use a crochet-hook that will carry the wool +easily. Commence the sweater with a chain of 60 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.</p> + +<p>2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row +(chain 3 for 1st treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to +end of row, turn.</p> + +<p>3. A treble and a double taken between treble and +double of last row; repeat.</p> + +<p>4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 +for 1st double).</p> + +<p>5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over +the shoulder.</p> + +<p>On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and +again the 2d row which completes one front. Work in the +same way on the other half of length, which brings you to +the center of the back and makes half of the sweater. Make +the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center +of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the +armscye of desired size.</p> + +<p>For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat +from 1st to 5th row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, +and join last row to 1st; also crochet sleeve in the armscye.</p> + +<p>Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet +with blue yarn, working in both veins of stitch to +avoid a rib, and putting 3 stitches in 1 at corners to turn +smoothly. After working 2 rows of left front make the +buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3; +then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.</p> + +<p>Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d +stitch in 1st row to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl +buttons to match the buttonholes.</p> + +<p>Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take +up yarn and draw through) twice, yarn over and draw +through all the loops on needle, chain 1 to close the "bean," +make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join to top of 1st.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, +and between each 2; join.</p> + +<p>3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, +widening every 3d or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.</p> + +<p>4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as +necessary in order to keep the shape.</p> + +<p>Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes +the body of cap.</p> + +<p>For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the +blue yarn, working on the wrong side to form the band so +that it will turn up on the right side.</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches +from hook, also through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * +take up wool and draw through all the stitches on needle, +chain 1 to close the star, draw up a loop through eye of star +last made, under the 1 chain, another through back part of +last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2 stitches; +repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of +star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.</p> + +<p>Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to +top of cap by a crocheted cord.</p> + +<p>This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By +using fourfold Germantown the sweater will be large +enough for the small mother herself to wear, or it may be +easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and working in +the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap +may also be made large enough for a child by adding to the +number of bean-stitches in each row.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Cap_in_Bean-Stitch" id="Childs_Cap_in_Bean-Stitch"></a>Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr030-2.jpg" width="300" height="198" alt="Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are one skein of cream-white +Shetland floss and a little light-blue Saxony yarn, +with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5, join.</p> + +<p>1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook +in ring, draw loop through, over and draw through 3 +loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up a loop in ring, +over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through +all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, +with 1 chain between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st +stitch.</p> + +<p>2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook +through same stitch, draw through, over and draw through +all the loops; this is 1st stitch of each row. Chain 1, a +bean-stitch in following space, chain 1, bean-stitch in bean-stitch; +repeat around, join.</p> + +<p>3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d +bean-stitch, with 1 chain between, join.</p> + +<p>4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th +bean-stitch.</p> + +<p>5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional +space between widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in +every 5th, and so on, with bean-stitch in every 10th, in +10th row.</p> + +<p>11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.</p> + +<p>14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a +double in each stitch.</p> + +<p>15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in +both veins of stitch; narrow twice in each row.</p> + +<p>20, 21. Double in each double.</p> + +<p>22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.</p> + +<p>23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off +white yarn.</p> + +<p>28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop +in 2d chain from hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long +loops, over, draw through all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next +space with a single, and repeat. This makes a small, +pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.</p> + +<p>For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles +in 2d stitch of chain. Continue around and around without +joining, 1st row with 2 doubles in each stitch, then +widen sufficiently to keep the work flat until nearly as +large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two +more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, +slip the button in and continue, keeping the work tight +over the button until you have about half of space covered; +then break the yarn, draw up with needle and sew to center +of crown.</p> + +<p>This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three +years, and may be easily enlarged. The border may be +turned down over the ears for extra warmth.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Crocheted_Hood" id="Childs_Crocheted_Hood"></a>Child's Crocheted Hood</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr030-1.jpg" width="310" height="450" alt="Child's Crocheted Hood" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Crocheted Hood</span> +</div> + +<p>Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with +a hook large enough to carry the wool without fraying. +Chain 4 stitches, join.</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of +chain, and 2 through the ring; take up wool and work off all +together, chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye +of star (under 1 chain just made), another through back +part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off as before, and repeat +until you have made 6 stars; join.</p> + +<p>2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each +star in same stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th +in stitch ahead, so that you get 2 stars over each star of +preceding row.</p> + +<p>3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.</p> + +<p>4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back +and forth for 3 rows. Break wool at end of each row and +fasten in at beginning, so the stars will come on the right +side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and 3d stitches of +chain, then proceed as usual.</p> + +<p>Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a +row of stars entirely around the hood, widening by putting +an extra star at each corner of front to prevent drawing.</p> + +<p>For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double +treble in ring, chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to +4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon in and out the spaces, sew the +rosette in place, and finish with ties of ribbon.</p> + +<p>This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, +and any stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Crocheted_Hood_2" id="Childs_Crocheted_Hood_2"></a>Child's Crocheted Hood +in Wedge-Stitch</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr031-1.jpg" width="289" height="450" alt="Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are one and one-half hanks of +4-fold Germantown wool, white, or any preferred +color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size. While intended +for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged +to fit any head.</p> + +<p>Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.</p> + +<p>2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool +over, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, +draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all the loops on +hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch, and repeat from * +until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.</p> + +<p>3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a +loop, over, insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, +draw through all loops on the needle, chain 1, * insert hook +in same space, draw up a loop, over, insert hook in next +space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all stitches on +needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches +in every 3d of previous round.</p> + +<p>4. Widen in every 5th stitch.</p> + +<p>5. Plain, that is, without widening.</p> + +<p>6. Widen every 3d stitch.</p> + +<p>7, 8, 9. Plain.</p> + +<p>10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and +fasten in at other end again.</p> + +<p>11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7 +stitches for back of neck.</p> + +<p>16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every +stitch. It is very pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the +Germantown when making the border.</p> + +<p>17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck +of hood.</p> + +<p>19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front, +working in both veins of stitch.</p> + +<p>Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at +back, a rosette on top, and ribbon ties.</p> + +<p>To make the hood larger you have but to continue +widening the crown until of proper size, which will make +the front proportionally longer and leave the neck wider. +Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way, following +the general directions given.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Toque_in" id="Childs_Toque_in"></a>Child's Toque in +Wedge-Stitch</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr031-2.jpg" width="400" height="375" alt="Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p>This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen +years, and is easily enlarged to any desired size, requires +five hanks of eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors +may be used, say white for cap and blue for the turnover or +border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and Germantown +wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone +hook of suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool +easily without catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches +and join.</p> + +<p>1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a +loop, wool over, insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, +wool over, draw through all the loops on needle, chain 1, +and repeat until you have 11 wedge-stitches in the ring; +join.</p> + +<p>2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a +loop, wool over, hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool +over, draw through all loops on needle, chain 1, * hook in +same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next space, +draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook, chain +1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch +in every other stitch of last round.</p> + +<p>3. Widen in every 3d stitch.</p> + +<p>4. Widen in every 6th stitch.</p> + +<p>Work six times around plain, that is, without widening; +then if color is used for the turnover join it in and work +once around, turn the work so that the border will be right +side out when turned up, and work around five times more. +Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length you +wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card +five inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end +to form the head of tassel, and cut open the other end.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><img src="images/illus-hr032-1.jpg" width="100" height="111" alt="N" title="" /> +EEDLECRAFT pictures each month new +and beautiful pieces of needlework—knitting, +crochet, including the exclusive Mary Card +designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. Such +complete and accurate directions and descriptions +are given that any woman can make +the articles for herself without further instructions. +It explains the stitch to use and shows how to make it.</p> + +<p>NEEDLECRAFT will supply you at moderate cost +with transfer-patterns, perforated patterns, or stamped goods for +every piece of embroidery shown. Also many working +charts for Crochet and Cross-Stitch Designs.</p> + +<p>NEEDLECRAFT will show you the latest productions +in fashions and will furnish you with the best perfect-fitting, +seam-allowing patterns. From these patterns it is easy +to make garments for yourself that will look like the pictures.</p> + +<p>NEEDLECRAFT gives up-to-date ideas for decorating +your home and tells you how to do it at the lowest +cost. An interesting and instructive cooking-article appears +each month. In short, NEEDLECRAFT is a magazine +that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most +practical home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published.</p> + +<p>NEEDLECRAFT is printed on large presses made +expressly for it and uses the best of new type for each issue. +The paper stock has a high finish in order to bring out clearly +all the details of the fashion and fancy-work illustrations. The +beautifully colored covers are of exclusive design—a very artistic +border with the center panel showing a new piece of +needlework each month. Like NEEDLECRAFT itself, the +covers are different and practical.</p> + +<p>A sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. Just +write your name and address on a postcard and you will receive +a copy by return mail; or, better still, send us 35 cents +and receive the next twelve issues. You are sure to find +those very patterns and designs that you have been looking +for. If you are not more than pleased with NEEDLECRAFT +after reading the first number, tell us so and we will +cancel your subscription and return your money.</p> + +<p class='center'> +<span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br /> +Augusta—Maine<br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>How To Secure Your Yarn +Without Cost</h2> + +<p>The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no +gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the business woman must +needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to the busy housewife no duty is so +imperative as to exclude knitting from the daily routine. It almost seems as if the +women of America—all women, rich and poor alike—were devoting their united efforts +to one vast universal consecration—the comfort of our boys over there.</p> + +<p>There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that every +woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting of warm sweaters, +stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki, and that is—the tremendously +high price of worsted yarns. We can all squeeze out a little more time but we can +none of us spend more money than we have, and in these times the calls for cash +donations are urgent and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you +will use without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential to +your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their all for our safety. +You who have been unable to knit as much as you have wanted to, because you have lacked +the means to do with, need feel that drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided</p> + +<p><b>An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the +Regulation Blue, Gray and Khaki which you +can secure without cost by getting subscriptions +to Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:</b></p> + +<p>Send us only <b>10</b> yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular subscription-price of +<b>35 cents</b> each, and we will send each subscriber this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, +one one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We reserve the right +to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins if necessary.)</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>NOTE—To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a lady's sweater +or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the same liberal terms; or if you +prefer finer yarns we will provide Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions +a skein (Premium No. 6396), and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a +skein (Premium No. 6397).</p></div> + + +<p class='center'><span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br /> +Augusta—Maine</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 403px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr033-1.jpg" width="403" height="600" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING *** + +***** This file should be named 26113-h.htm or 26113-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/1/1/26113/ + +Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> diff --git a/26113-h/26113-h.htm~ b/26113-h/26113-h.htm~ new file mode 100644 index 0000000..15d9f20 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/26113-h.htm~ @@ -0,0 +1,4250 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of the Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet. + </title> +<link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #26113] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING *** + + + + +Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<h1>Handbook of Wool Knitting +and Crochet</h1> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 397px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr001-1.jpg" width="397" height="600" alt="Front Cover" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class='center'> +Published by<br /> +<span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft Publishing Company</span><br /> +Augusta, Maine<br /> +1918<br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 172px;"> +<p class='center'><b>12c</b></p> +<img src="images/illus-hr002-1.jpg" width="172" height="250" alt="Handbook of Crochet" title="" /> +<p class='center'><b>12c</b></p> +</div> + + + +<p class='center'><i>You can crochet the most fascinating +things imaginable if you have this</i></p> + +<h2>Handbook of Crochet</h2> + +<p class='center'>By Emma Chalmers Monroe</p> + +<p>This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains +most valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets +or wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very +careful selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate, +every successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect +results are a certainty.</p> + +<p>It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use of +crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders, Scarf-Ends, +Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.</p> + +<p>The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7×10 inches) and 44 illustrations. +It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors.</p> + +<p>Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be +sent you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be +obtained only from us.</p> + +<p class='center'><span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br /> +Augusta—Maine</p> + +<hr style="width: 95%;" /> + +<h1>Handbook of Wool Knitting +and Crochet</h1> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Lesson_in_Knitting" id="A_Lesson_in_Knitting"></a>A Lesson in Knitting</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_1"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr003-1.jpg" width="350" height="223" alt="Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles</span> +</div> + +<p>The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is +sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (<a href="#knit_fig_1">Figure +1</a>). There are several methods for this, the following being +that preferred and generally used by the writer: Leave +a spare end of thread, sufficient for the number of stitches +you wish to cast on, lying toward the left, the spool or +ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the +right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the +third of the left hand; bring the working-thread across +the palm of the hand, around the thumb and back +between the forefinger and second finger; bend the +forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and +the second finger), pass it under the thread which crosses +the palm of the hand, and then draw the forefinger back, +or straighten it, which will give you a loop with crossed +threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this +loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread +(or ball-thread) around the point of needle from right +to left, as in plain knitting, draw it back through the loop, +slip off the latter, and draw up the left thread. Then proceed +to make the crossed loop and knit it off in the same +way for the next and following stitches. The whole operation +is very simple, although the instructions seem long because +explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and +follow them through carefully, and you will very soon master +the "crossed casting on."</p> + +<p>Another method, preferred by many and practically the +same in effect, except that the edge is not quite so firm, is +as follows: Loop the thread around the left forefinger, +holding the spare end between thumb and second finger, +pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the thread +around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the +latter and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle +under the loop, or lower thread, instead of through it, +bringing it back through, and then knitting off, you will +really get the crossed loop, and many find this method +easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be +doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or +any article where much wear comes.</p> + +<p>Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many +like this method when there are many stitches. Twist a +loop around the needle held in the left hand, bring the end +of thread, or spare thread, to the front, crossing the working-thread +to hold it in place—or, if preferred, simply tie +a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the +right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread +around point of right needle and draw through the loop, +bringing the right needle again in front of left. Thus far, +the process is quite like that of plain knitting. Keeping the +right needle still in the new stitch or loop, transfer the +stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in front and +putting the point through the loop from front to back, +leaving the right needle in place for the next stitch; the +loops are not slipped off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, +so that all are kept on the needle. A little practise +will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly and evenly.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_2"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr004-1.jpg" width="350" height="211" alt="Figure 2. Knitting Plain" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 2. Knitting Plain</span> +</div> + +<p>The plain knitting (<a href="#knit_fig_2">Figure 2</a>), is +done as follows: Having cast on the +requisite number of stitches, insert the +right needle through the front of left +needle from left to right, the right +needle passing behind the left; +carry the thread around point +of right needle and bring it down +between the two needles, then draw +the point of right needle back and +through the stitch, forming the new +stitch on right needle and letting +the other slip off the left, pushing +down the point of left needle to facilitate +this process; repeat until all +the stitches are knitted off and the +row is complete. Where there are +edges to be joined, as in knitting back +and fronts of a sweater, it is a good +plan to slip the first stitch of each +row.</p> + +<p>Right here a suggestion about the +method of holding the thread may be +of value: By the first method the +thread is carried over the little finger +of right hand, under second and +third fingers and over the tip of the +forefinger, which should be held close +to the work; it is this finger which +passes the thread over point of right +needle for the new stitch. By +another method the thread is carried +over the left forefinger, under second +and third and over the little finger, +exactly as it is held for crocheting: +insert the right needle through 1st +stitch on left needle in usual way, +push it over the thread on left forefinger, +and draw this back through +the stitch with the point of right +needle. Only the needle is held in +the right hand, and many workers +claim that the work is much more +rapidly done.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_3"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr004-2.jpg" width="350" height="219" alt="Figure 3. Purling" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 3. Purling</span> +</div> + +<p>The purl- or seam-stitch (<a href="#knit_fig_3">Figure +3</a>) is the exact reverse of plain knitting, +both as to method of work and +appearance, being in reality the wrong +side of plain knitting. In the latter +the thread is kept at the back of +the work; for purling, bring it to the +front between the two needles. Put +the point of right needle through the +front of 1st stitch on left needle from +right to left, the right needle being +thus brought in front of the left; pass +the thread around the front of right +needle from right to left and back +between needles, then push down +the point and draw the loop backward +through the stitch, instead of +forward, as in plain knitting, the +right needle being thus brought +behind the left. Slip off the old +stitch as usual, and take care to +return the thread to its place at the +back before beginning to knit plain +again.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_4"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr004-3.jpg" width="350" height="199" alt="Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p>Garter-stitch, so called (<a href="#knit_fig_4">Figure 4</a>) +is simply plain knitting back and +forth, which gives the effect of ridges, +one row knit, the next purled. This +is a stitch much used for sweaters, +and other knitted garments. If one +wishes to have the right side appear +as in plain knitting, the 1st row +must be knitted plain, the next +purled. Since one is the reverse of +the other, the right side will be plain +knitting, the wrong side purled.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_5"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr005-1.jpg" width="350" height="205" alt="Figure 5. The Double Rib" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 5. The Double Rib</span> +</div> + +<p>The rib-stitch is alternately plain +and purled. To knit the single rib, +* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double +rib, (<a href="#knit_fig_5">Figure 5,</a>) * knit 2, purl 2; +repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, +purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib +may be made that is liked, always +taking care—unless knitting in +rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking—to +knit the stitches purled on +the preceding row, and purl the knitted +ones. There are a large variety +of fancy patterns made by combining +plain knitting and purling, such as +the basket-stitch and others, of even +or broken "check."</p> + +<p>There are many variations of the +simplest stitches; for example, the +common garter-stitch gives a particularly +good effect if knitted from +the back. Put the needle in from +right to left, through the back part of +the stitch to be knitted; leave the +thread behind the needle, then pass it +from right to left over the needle and +draw it through the stitch, allowing +the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. +In this stitch the two threads +of the loop are crossed, instead of +lying side by side as in plain knitting.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_6"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr005-2.jpg" width="350" height="213" alt="Figure 6. Making "Overs"" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 6. Making "Overs"</span> +</div> + +<p>"Overs" (<a href="#knit_fig_6">Figure 6</a>) are used in all +lace patterns, and many times in +fancy designs for wool knitting. To +make an "over" bring the thread +before the needle as if to purl, then +knit the next stitch plain as usual. +This brings a loop over the needle, +which in the next row is to be +knitted as any stitch, thus increasing +the number of stitches in the row. +In case it is not desired to increase +the stitches, one must narrow, by +knitting two stitches together, once +for every "over." If a larger hole is +wanted, the thread is put twice over +the needle, and in the following one +of these loops is knitted, the other +purled.</p> + +<p>To "purl-narrow," or purl two +together, bring the thread to the front +as for purling, then to form the +extra stitch, carry the thread back +over the needle and to the front again; +then insert the right needle through +two stitches instead of one, and knit +them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an +abbreviation frequently used for +this.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a name="knit_fig_7"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr005-3.jpg" width="350" height="220" alt="Figure 7. Binding Off" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 7. Binding Off</span> +</div> + +<p>To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch +from left needle to the right needle, +without knitting it; knit next +stitch, then draw the stitch on +right needle over the knitted one, +letting it fall between needles. To +slip, narrow and bind, slip first stitch, +knit next two together, and draw the +slipped stitch over. To cast off or +bind off, (<a href="#knit_fig_7">Figure 7,</a>) slip 1st stitch, +knit next, draw slipped stitch over, +knit next stitch, draw the previous +knitted stitch over, and continue, +taking care that the chain of stitches +thus cast off be neither too tight nor +too loose, but just as elastic as the +remainder of the work.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Sleeveless_Sweater" id="A_Sleeveless_Sweater"></a>A Sleeveless Sweater</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr006-1.jpg" width="284" height="450" alt="A Sleeveless Sweater" title="" /> +<span class="caption">A Sleeveless Sweater</span> +</div> + +<p>A sleeveless sweater, +as pretty as it is comfortable, +requires six skeins of +Shetland floss and a pair of No. +5 amber needles. Pink floss +was chosen for the model, but +any preferred color may be +substituted.</p> + +<p>Cast on 85 stitches; knit +in basket-stitch, as follows:</p> + +<p>1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat +across, ending with knit 5.</p> + +<p>2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat +across, ending with purl 5.</p> + +<p>Repeat these two rows +twice, making 6 rows in all; +then to change the check knit +7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st, +repeat twice, and again change +the check by repeating from +1st row. Continue until the +border is five checks deep, or +30 rows.</p> + +<p>Knit across plain and purl +back for 84 rows; narrow 1 +stitch each side every other +row, three times, for the armhole, +leaving 79 stitches on +your needle, and giving 89 +rows from the border. Knit +across plain and purl back for +38 rows; putting these stitches +on a large safety-pin for convenience, +knit 31, bind off 17 +stitches for neck, and on the +remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 +rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, +to give the effect of a seam on +the shoulder. Continue the +front, knitting across and +purling back, adding a stitch +toward the front each time to +make the neck V-shaped, for +38 rows; then add 1 stitch at +the armhole, and next row +cast on 8 stitches for underarm. +Do not widen further +toward the front, but continue +knitting forward and purling +back for 85 rows; then +make the border of 30 rows, +five checks wide, to correspond +with the back, and bind +off. Knit the other front to +correspond.</p> + +<p>Pick up the stitches around +armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5, +purl 5 for 6 rows, making an +edge of checks; bind off. Pick +up the stitches on front, to the +center of back of neck, about +175 in all, make a row of checks +to correspond with the arm, +and bind; work a border in +the same way on other side of +front, and sew neatly at back +of neck, also join the underarm +seams, taking care to +match the checks of the +border perfectly.</p> + +<p>For the belt: Cast on 25 +stitches, and proceed as directed +for the border until you +have the desired length; the +belt illustrated is 42 checks +long. Across one end crochet +3 chain loops, filling these with +doubles, and sew to the other +end three pearl buttons to +match. The belt is caught +along the top in the back, giving +the short-waisted effect.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2>Costume for the Winter-Girl</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 244px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr007-1.jpg" width="244" height="450" alt="Costume for the Winter-Girl" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Costume for the Winter-Girl</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark +rose was used for the model, but any preferred color +may be substituted), three balls of gray Angora, one pair +each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a steel +crochet-hook, No. 6.</p> + +<p>For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the +back 100 stitches (these will measure 20 inches). Knit +plain, back and forth (which will give you ridges or ribs) +for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each end of needle +every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76 stitches +on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline); +knit on these stitches for 9½ inches from the waistline, then +decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3 +times, or until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches +until the back measures 15½ inches from the waistline. +Knit 25 stitches off on a spare needle, bind off 20 stitches +for back of neck, and on the other 25 stitches knit one front +after the following directions, and the other to correspond.</p> + +<p>Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch +toward the front every other row until you have added 6 +stitches; cast on 7 stitches more toward the front, giving 38 +stitches on the needle; knit in ridges, increasing 1 stitch +toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches have been +added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making +60 stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on +the 60 stitches for 9½ inches, then increase 1 stitch every +8th row toward the underarm- or side-seam, until the latter +is of the same length as that of the back, including the 2 +inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to correspond +and sew up side-seams.</p> + +<p>With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front +(have an uneven number of stitches on needle), and on another +spare needle pick up the stitches across the back; on +another pick up the stitches of front, having the same +number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch on +needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which +will be the corner stitch.</p> + +<p>1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front, +knit 1, * over, narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch, +over, knit the corner stitch, again repeat from * to next +corner, over, knit corner stitch, repeat from * until but 1 +stitch remains, over, knit last stitch.</p> + +<p>2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the +place of narrowed one.</p> + +<p>3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, +knit to next corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and +knit plain to end of row.</p> + +<p>Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows +from the beginning.</p> + +<p>In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches +from the neck, bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then +knit 13, bind off 4, and repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13 +stitches apart. In next row cast on 4 stitches over where +they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for 4 more +ridges, and bind off.</p> + +<p>Sleeves.—Cast on 34 stitches (about 7½ inches); knit in +ridges, casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every +other row until there are 74 stitches on needle (about 15 +inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of +needle every 12th row until there are 56 stitches remaining +on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17 inches, +or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13 +ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles +knit 7 ridges, bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs.</p> + +<p>Collar.—Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around +neck of sweater (not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not +bind off. With a spare needle pick up 1 stitch from each +ridge on each end of +collar; with gray Angora +and No. 3 needles repeat +3d and 2d rows alternately +for border until +there are 7 ridges, and +bind off.</p> + +<p>Pockets.—Cast on 28 +stitches; knit in ridges +for 4 inches, change to +Angora and No. 3 +needles, knit 7 ridges, +making a buttonhole in +4th ridge at center of +pocket, bind off and sew +the pocket neatly in +place on the sweater. +Sew the sleeves in.</p> + +<p>Belt.—With dark rose +cast on 23 stitches +(about 4½ inches), knit in +ridges until the belt is the +width of the back at +waistline, bind off and +sew in place with two +buttons at each side.</p> + +<p>Buttons.—With dark +rose, chain 3, turn; miss +1 stitch, 8 doubles in +next; 2 doubles in each +of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles +in 1st double, 1 in next; +repeat from * until the +circle is of a size to cover +the mold, work 1 row +without widening, slip +the mold in, * work +around with 1 double in +a stitch, miss 1, repeating +from last * until +closed. If preferred, a +small square may be +knitted like the body of +the sweater and used to +cover mold.</p> + +<p>The skating-cap is 23 +inches head-size, and requires +three skeins of the +dark-rose floss, two balls +of gray Angora wool and +4 steel needles No. 8.</p> + +<p>Using the Angora wool, +cast on 136 stitches; knit +45 on each of 2 needles +and 46 stitches on the 3d, +and knit in single rib +(knit 1, purl 1) in rounds +for 1½ inches, change to +the rose floss and knit in +single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single +rib for 1½ inches; change to rose floss and knit in single +rib until the top measures 14½ inches, then bind off and +draw together, leaving sufficient opening for the tassel to +be sewed in.</p> + +<p>Tassel.—Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 +inches long, tie in the center, fold where tied and tie again +below. Sew the tassel at top of cap.</p> + +<p>Scarf.—Materials required are four skeins of dark rose +Shetland floss, two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair +each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone knitting-needles. With gray +Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60 stitches, and +knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit +7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and +again knit 7 ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles +and knit for 50 inches, or length of scarf desired; then, as at +beginning, knit 7 ridges of Angora, 7 ridges of rose and +again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off.</p> + +<p>Knitted Gloves.—Materials required are three skeins of +Shetland floss, and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use +two threads of the floss at once.</p> + +<p>Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib +(knit 1, purl 1) for 44 +rounds, or until the wrist +is as long as desired, then +knit 16 rounds plain.</p> + +<p>61. Knit to within 4 +stitches of end of round, +widen 1, knit 4, widen 1.</p> + +<p>62, 63, 64, 65. Knit +plain.</p> + +<p>Repeat the last 5 +rounds, increasing 2 +stitches every 5th round +until you have 10 stitches +between the two widening +points, and 58 +stitches on the needles.</p> + +<p>To form the thumb, +knit 7 stitches on each +of 2 needles and cast on +4 stitches between the +widening points, thus +making 18 stitches on 3 +needles.</p> + +<p>Knit 22 rounds plain. +* Narrow, knit 1; repeat +around; knit 1 round +plain; repeat from *. +Narrow until the thumb +is closed, draw the wool +through, and leave an +end to fasten down on +the wrong side.</p> + +<p>Pick up the 4 stitches +cast on at base of thumb, +making 48 stitches on +the hand. Knit 15 +rounds, then divide the +stitches as follows: Slip +24 stitches on one knitting-needle +for top of +hand starting from the +3d cast-on stitch at beginning +of thumb, and +the remaining 24 stitches +for palm of hand on +another needle.</p> + +<p>First Finger: Knit 6 +stitches from top of hand, +slip remaining 18 +stitches on a safety-pin, +also 18 stitches from +palm of hand on another +safety-pin, cast on 3 +stitches for between +fingers, knit remaining +6 from palm of hand, +making 15 stitches in +all, on these knit 30 +rounds, and finish off as +directed for the thumb.</p> + +<p>Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast +on 3 stitches, knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick +up 3 stitches cast on at base of first finger, making 19 +stitches on needle; * knit 1 round plain; knit to last 2 +stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches picked up, +narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining +knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like +the thumb.</p> + +<p>Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of +hand, cast on 3 stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick +up 3 stitches at base of second finger, making 18 stitches in +all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed for 2d finger, knit 25 more +rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow off as thumb.</p> + +<p>Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1 +needle, 6 stitches from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches +at base of 3d finger on 3d needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 +stitches, then narrow off as the thumb.</p> + +<p>These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right +glove in same way to where you divide the stitches for the +fingers; then remember that the palm of the glove must be +toward you, the thumb on the right-hand side. So you +would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit 7 +from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left +glove.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childrens_Knitted_Sets" id="Childrens_Knitted_Sets"></a>Children's Knitted Sets</h2> + + +<h3>Set No. 1</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr008-1.jpg" width="400" height="333" alt="Set No. 1" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Set No. 1</span> +</div> + +<p>Hood.—Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for +70 rows, or 35 ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs, +and bind off evenly. Sew up the edge where you cast on for +the back of the hood. Fold the border back its width, and +pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6 ribs back of +it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and +the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit +4, over, narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row +forms the holes for the cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more +ribs and bind off.</p> + +<p>The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any +number of stitches, and knitting just half that number of +ribs.</p> + +<p>Scarf.—Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf); +knit 14 ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of +blue; then knit 34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue +with the other end as at first, reversing the order. Knot +fringe of the two colors in at each end.</p> + +<p>Sweater.—Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or +double rib) for two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 +ribs, if you knit back and forth; the model was knitted forward +and purled back, to give the work the appearance of +plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches for +sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other +sleeve; knit 30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches +off on an extra needle, bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on +the remaining 65 stitches work 12 rows; then cast on 13 +stitches toward the front and on this length knit 28 rows, +bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the +remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the +other front to correspond, slip all the stitches on one +needle, knit until the front is as long as the back, and +finish with the double rib for two inches; bind off evenly.</p> + +<p>Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve +and knit back and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the +sleeves and underarm seams and turn back the cuffs.</p> + +<p>For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck, +knit 8 rows of gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.</p> + +<p>Work around edge of collar and down the front opening +with double crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with +cord, ends finished with balls or tassels.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + + +<h3>Set No. 2</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 331px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr009-1.jpg" width="331" height="400" alt="Set No. 2" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Set No. 2</span> +</div> + +<p>Jacket.—Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; +cast on 26 stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 +stitches for the other sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 +stitches, bind off 18 stitches for the neck, knit remaining 43 +stitches, and on these continue with the front. Knit 6 rows, +then continue knitting back and forth, adding a stitch at +the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will +give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then +bind off 26 stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond +with the back.</p> + +<p>Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and +underarm seams, work around the neck with double crochet, +in color, 1 chain between, and around the body of the +jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch, miss space of +two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3 +chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and +between 1st and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. +Finish edge of sleeves in the same way, and run in cord and +balls.</p> + +<p>For the Hood.—Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 +ribs of color and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood +where cast on, finish around the neck with double crochet, +space of 2 chain between, using color, work the shells around +front of hood, and finish with the shells of gray, as for +jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of +yarn.</p> + +<p>The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary +chain or, as preferred because stronger, knotted by what is +called the "fool's delight" method, although why named +thus it is impossible to say. Surely it seems a very sensible +way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as the cord is +wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the +other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends +of yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger +of one hand, say the right, with the yarn which pulls +through the knot under the same hand, and the loop which +was formed held on the forefinger; hold the yarn which does +not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the left hand +through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, +catch up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand +thread—exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in crochet—transfer +the knot (which ties the two ends together) +to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop +over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the +position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the +same in the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue +by passing the forefinger of right hand through the loop, +catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through +to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the +knot and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and +when one has learned to make it evenly and well, it will be +found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles +requiring a drawstring or cord.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Serviceable_Sweater" id="A_Serviceable_Sweater"></a>A Serviceable Sweater</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 366px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr010-1.jpg" width="366" height="450" alt="A Serviceable Sweater" title="" /> +<span class="caption">A Serviceable Sweater</span> +</div> + +<p>Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5 +needles, with one pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes +or numbers of needles vary, and also do methods of knitting, +it is a good plan to work a little block before beginning +the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and +purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. +There should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven +rows should make an inch in length. If you get less, use +larger needles, say No. 6.</p> + +<p>It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so +that you will become familiar with it and can narrow or +widen and still keep the ridge. Cast on any number of +stitches divisible by four, with one stitch over, knit 2, purl +2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All rows are +the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a +ridge. When you come to the decreasing later you can tell +whether you are keeping the pattern correct, by watching +the knitted stitch, which forms a sort of chain right on top +of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.</p> + +<p>Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles +and knit 12 rows plain for the band at lower edge.</p> + +<p>13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up +the front), * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last +stitch.</p> + +<p>14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting +last 10. Repeat these two rows until you have 110 +rows in all.</p> + +<p>111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.</p> + +<p>112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.</p> + +<p>113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.</p> + +<p>115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.</p> + +<p>117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.</p> + +<p>119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of +end, knit these.</p> + +<p>121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.</p> + +<p>123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.</p> + +<p>124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.</p> + +<p>125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.</p> + +<p>126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, +knit these.</p> + +<p>130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.</p> + +<p>Continue to work until you have completed the 171st +row, doing the odd rows like the 123d and even rows like +130th, when you should have 23 stitches on the needle. +From this point work until you have completed the 183d +row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows +by knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. +You should then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one +plain row (the 184th) and bind off.</p> + +<p>Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.</p> + +<p>13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting +last stitch.</p> + +<p>14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl +1, knit 10. Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in +all.</p> + +<p>28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches +remaining, knit 3, bind off 3, knit 4.</p> + +<p>29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. +This forms the buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at +equal distances apart, and begin the narrowing for collar in +the 11th row, continuing like left front.</p> + +<p>Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then +work in the pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which +brings the work to the armhole.</p> + +<p>121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, +taking care to keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven +times, when you will have taken 8 stitches from each side. +Knit 48 rows in pattern +on the remaining +63 stitches.</p> + +<p>177, 178. Knit in +pattern until within 7 +stitches of the end; +turn, leaving these +stitches on left-hand +needle without +knitting.</p> + +<p>179, 180. Knit in +pattern to within +13 stitches of the +end (including the 7 +stitches previously +left), turn.</p> + +<p>181, 182. Knit in +pattern to within 19 +stitches of end, turn.</p> + +<p>183. Knit 4, narrow, +(knit 5, narrow) twice, +knit rest plain, to end +of needle.</p> + +<p>184. Knit plain +entirely across, and +bind off.</p> + +<p>Sleeves. Cast on +97 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. Knit 40, * purl +2, knit 2, repeat from +* 3 times, purl 1, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Slip 1, knit 1, * +purl 2, knit 2, repeat +from * 4 times, knit +1, turn.</p> + +<p>3. Slip 1, knit 1, * +purl 2, knit 2, repeat +from * 5 times, purl 2, +knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>4. Slip 1, purl 1, * +knit 2, purl 2, repeat +from * 7 times, knit +1, turn.</p> + +<p>5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, +knit 3, turn.</p> + +<p>6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, +knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 +times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, +knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, +knit 3, turn.</p> + +<p>10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 +times, knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 +times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.</p> + +<p>12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until +but 7 stitches remain, turn.</p> + +<p>13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.</p> + +<p>14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting +last stitch.</p> + +<p>15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting +last stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at +beginning and end of every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, +then knit without decreasing until you have 120 rows, +counting from the 15th row.</p> + +<p>Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the +sleeve-stitches as follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, +(narrow, knit 1) 14 times, narrow, knit 2, to end of row.</p> + +<p>Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.</p> + +<p>Pockets.—With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. Knit 1, * knit 2, +purl 2, repeat from * +across, ending with +knit 2.</p> + +<p>2. Slip 1, * purl 2, +knit 2, repeat, ending +with purl 1, knit 1.</p> + +<p>3. Slip 1, * knit 2, +purl 2, repeat, ending +with knit 2.</p> + +<p>Repeat last two +rows until you have +32 rows in pattern, +then knit 10 rows +plain for top of pocket +and bind off.</p> + +<p>To make up the +coat, first press the +border of fronts; +stretch into shape, +pin to an ironing-board, +cover with a +damp cloth and press +with a fairly hot iron +until the cloth is dry. +This will prevent the +coat from drawing up, +as the ribs are inclined +to do. For sewing, +use a blunt-pointed +needle to +avoid splitting the +wool. Sew up the +side and shoulder-seams, +taking a stitch +from each edge and +keeping the edges perfectly +even, being careful +not to draw the +sewing-yarn so tightly +as to pucker the seam +in the least. Sew +up the sleeves, and +place the sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, +easing in any fulness there is around the top. +Place the center of collar at center of back before +sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the +collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the +ridges, and sew on five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths +of an inch in diameter, to correspond with the buttonholes, +placing a small pearl button at the back of the +larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both +together.</p> + +<p>This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to +hem. It may easily be made longer, if desired, but the +model is an excellent one for ordinary wear, and very +"natty," and it has the merit of being quickly knitted.</p> + +<p>As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting +a sweater in any stitch, is to have a pattern and work to +fit that. First, have a coat cut from any old cloth, and of +any style desired. Seam it up and try it on, having it fitted +nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart. Fasten +the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks +and knit to measure, without stretching your work.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Ladies_Sweater" id="Ladies_Sweater"></a>Ladies' Sweater</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr011-1.jpg" width="310" height="450" alt="Ladies' Sweater" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ladies' Sweater</span> +</div> + +<p>This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, +and four balls of Angora; electric blue for the body of +the garment, and gray Angora were combined in the model, +but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The work is +done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. +With the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 +stitches for the back, which will measure about twenty-four +inches, and knit 48 ribs, or 96 rows. Next row, * narrow, +knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No. 12 steel needles +and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the belt. +Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 +stitch at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 +ribs plain, or without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 +stitches, slip them on to a spare needle, bind off 21 stitches +for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches, knit 4 ribs; then +cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs, increase 1 +stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22 +ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt +as directed for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from +front edge. Having completed the belt—20 rows of triple +rib—change to No. 5 needles; * knit 4, increase 1 stitch, +repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off on the wrong +side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting buttonholes +if these are used.</p> + +<p>For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick +up 1 stitch on each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in +all; knit 8 ribs, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle +every 8th rib, eight times. Change to steel needles and +knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the larger (No. 5) needles, +* knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12 ribs, join +the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.</p> + +<p>Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, +cast on 65 stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, +knit 11 rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end of needle every +other row, and bind off. Working on right side of collar +pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11 rows, increasing +1 stitch every other row toward the corner and +keeping the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other +side of collar to correspond and sew up the mitered corners. +The border of Angora wool may be as much wider as one +chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.</p> + +<p>Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted—either +knitted or crocheted—and furnished with a loop +sewed on each side, are used to fasten the belt.</p> + +<p>For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry +the yarn, make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch +of chain make 8 doubles; in next round make 2 doubles in +each stitch, working in both veins so there will be no rib; +then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. +Continue to work around and around until you have a circle +which will cover the button-mold—5 rounds in all were required +for top of buttons used on model, work around without +widening, slip in the mold, then * miss 1, a double in +next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If preferred, +knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and +use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and +fastening underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 +stitches, turn and make a double in each stitch; fasten securely +beneath the button.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Ladies_Knitted_Gloves" id="Ladies_Knitted_Gloves"></a>Ladies' Knitted Gloves +with Fancy Backs</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 268px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr012-1.jpg" width="268" height="400" alt="Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs</span> +</div> + +<p>Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or +worsted. Cast on 57 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, +narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat twice.</p> + +<p>2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.</p> + +<p>3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; +repeat.</p> + +<p>4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; +repeat.</p> + +<p>5. Same as 4th row.</p> + +<p>6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, +narrow, purl 2, take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate +needle, hold this at back of work, knit next 3 stitches, then +knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.</p> + +<p>Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed +every 6th row, until the wrist is seven patterns in length. +Then carry one cable up back of hand, with an openwork +stripe each side, and knit plain across palm.</p> + +<p>Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are +right and left, care must be taken in starting the thumb so +that both will not be for the same hand. On the left-hand +glove the thumb is started at right of the stripe, on the +right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with +widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit +3, widen; continue in this way until you have widened the +thumb to 17 stitches. Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle +cast on 7 stitches, join and knit once around, in each of +next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches, arrange the +stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow +at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these +on 2 needles and bind off.</p> + +<p>Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on +at base of thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and +divide the stitches on 2 needles, or, if more convenient, take +them off on a twine. For the little finger: Take 8 stitches +from back needle and 8 from front, and cast on 6 stitches, +knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches in each +of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end of +each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles +and bind off.</p> + +<p>First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little +finger, knit to the middle, take 8 stitches from each side +next the thumb, cast on 6 stitches for inside of finger, knit +once around plain, in next 4 rounds narrow off 1 of the 6 +stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish off as +before.</p> + +<p>Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first +finger, knit them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little +finger, putting these on separate needle, 9 stitches from +other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit until you get to those left +for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1 of the 6 each time +around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches, and +finish off as directed.</p> + +<p>Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit +around plain, proceed as directed for third finger, knit two +and three-fourths inches plain and finish off.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Knitted_Slippers_with" id="Knitted_Slippers_with"></a>Knitted Slippers with +Ermine Trimming</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr012-2.jpg" width="350" height="170" alt="Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown +yarn, two colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink +and white yarn, with a little black, and pink ribbon are +used for the slippers illustrated.</p> + +<p>Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size +steel needles. Knit back and forth until you have a perfect +square of white, then join the color. The square is for the +toe of slipper.</p> + +<p>Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a +strip long enough to extend around the sole of slipper and +join to the square on other side, leaving two sides and one +corner for the toe.</p> + +<p>Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand +corner, bring the needle through the first two ribs and +down between next two, miss three ribs, keeping the long +thread on the wrong side, and repeat, having every other +row alternate. This may be done before the strip is joined +to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the +sole, using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The +strip should be stretched somewhat during the sewing, in +order to make the slipper cling well to the foot.</p> + +<p>For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit +plain, back and forth, until the strip is long enough to go +around the top. Darn with the black yarn, making three +rows, over one rib and under three, alternating the stitches. +Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on the bows.</p> + +<p>These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty +and may be made to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper +cast on an additional number of stitches for the square, +which will make the strip proportionally wider; knit it long +enough for the larger sole, and make the border wider, if +desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less stitches, following +the same general directions.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Babies_Long_Bootees" id="Babies_Long_Bootees"></a>Babies' Long Bootees</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 246px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr013-2.jpg" width="246" height="400" alt="Babies' Long Bootees" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Babies' Long Bootees</span> +</div> + +<p>Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white, +and two steel knitting-needles, No. 14, are required +for these bootees.</p> + +<p>With color, cast on 57 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. Knit plain.</p> + +<p>2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and +bind, knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end +of row.</p> + +<p>3. Purl.</p> + +<p>Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; +with white repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 +rows plain with color and 2 rows plain with white.</p> + +<p>With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).</p> + +<p>With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows +in single rib; repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows +plain, with color.</p> + +<p>With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; +this gives the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.</p> + +<p>Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit +2, * over 3 times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of +row. Purl back, dropping 2 of the "overs."</p> + +<p>Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit +15 rows in single rib, completing the leg.</p> + +<p>For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join +in the color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With +white knit 1 row and purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. +Repeat last 8 rows three times, which will give four white +stripes and the same of narrow ones, in color; again knit +forward and back with color.</p> + +<p>For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on +right-hand needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the +side of instep, knit 21 across instep, pick up 17 on other +side and knit the 18 stitches on left needle. Knit back and +forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the foot and +back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.</p> + +<p>These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as +well as pretty. The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, +so they are not likely to slip down and off the little feet.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Knitted_Mittens" id="Childs_Knitted_Mittens"></a>Child's Knitted Mittens</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr013-1.jpg" width="284" height="400" alt="Child's Knitted Mittens" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Knitted Mittens</span> +</div> + +<p>Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you +knit tight or loose. No. 17 is a good average size. +Cast 18 stitches on each of three needles.</p> + +<p>Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, +say two inches.</p> + +<p>For the pattern, knit as follows:</p> + +<p>1. Purl.</p> + +<p>2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.</p> + +<p>These 4 rows are repeated throughout.</p> + +<p>Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the +wrist; to widen pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, +knit 1, widen, and continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in +pattern, and again widen, knit 3, widen, across base of +thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches between +the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible +to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the +thumb. Knit around twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches +off on a strong thread.</p> + +<p>Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the +thumb cast on 7 stitches, or one third the number widened +for the thumb. Continue knitting the hand to the tip of the +little finger, then commence narrowing. The manner in +which this is done depends on the shape of the hand to be +fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, +and knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and +knit 4 times around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times +around; every 2d stitch and knit twice around; then narrow, +knit 1, repeat around, knit once around, narrow every +stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and +securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten +on the wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, +since it makes it wear longer, especially if intended for +rough usage. The narrowing of a child's mitten may begin +with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is long and slender, +an additional row may be knitted between the widenings +for the thumb.</p> + +<p>Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with +the 3d pick up and knit the stitches across the hand, which +were cast on. When knitting around the first time, narrow +once each end of the picked-up stitches.</p> + +<p>Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern +until you reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, +beginning with once in 3 stitches. Draw through the last +stitches at tip and darn down.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Knee-Cap" id="Knee-Cap"></a>Knee-Cap</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 275px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr014-2.jpg" width="275" height="450" alt="Knee-Cap" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Knee-Cap</span> +</div> + +<p>Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic +twinges, appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them +will make a most acceptable gift to grandpa or grandma. +No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn were used for +the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as desired, +by choosing coarser or finer yarn.</p> + +<p>Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit +around 30 times in single rib—that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. +You are now ready to begin the gore, which may +be done in single rib, like the rest, or in basket-stitch (or +other fancy pattern) as in the model.</p> + +<p>Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches +idle; take a stitch from each side every time across until but +42 stitches are left on both idle needles. Narrow at the end +of the busy needle each time until but 26 stitches are left +on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches on the selvage at +each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three needles, +and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on +each of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind +off loosely, and finish with a simple crocheted border of +chain-loops or shells caught down in every other stitch.</p> + +<p>To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat +for 3 rows, then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing +the 2 plain stitches exactly in the center of the 6 purled +stitches of previous rows. This change, made after each +plain row, gives the woven- or basket-effect, and the pattern +is a very pretty one for sweaters.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Wristers_or_Pulse-Warmers" id="Wristers_or_Pulse-Warmers"></a>Wristers or Pulse-Warmers</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr014-1.jpg" width="300" height="297" alt="Wristers or Pulse-Warmers" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Wristers or Pulse-Warmers</span> +</div> + +<p>Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on +a cold day, and those described particularly so, as +they fill the sleeve and completely exclude the wind. Using +knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or quality +with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for +a man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 +needles, and knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, +according to length required. Bind off loosely.</p> + +<p>With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top +to bottom, putting a treble in every other stitch and 2 +chain-stitches between trebles; after the last treble at the +edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the next.</p> + +<p>Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in +1st space, 3 in next, and repeat, working back and forth +until all the spaces are filled. A very attractive finish is to +work a row of doubles in color, making a double in each +treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be prettily used +for this finish.</p> + +<p>A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described +by holding a pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, +and with the right sewing over and over it; make the rows +quite close together, cut the wound yarn open with a pair +of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and forth, +until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Motor-Scarf" id="Motor-Scarf"></a>Motor-Scarf</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr014-3.jpg" width="286" height="400" alt="Motor-Scarf" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Motor-Scarf</span> +</div> + +<p>This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred +colors of Shetland floss. Use wooden needles +and cast on 100 stitches with pink.</p> + +<p>1, 3. Purl.</p> + +<p>2. Knit plain.</p> + +<p>4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending +with knit 3.</p> + +<p>5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.</p> + +<p>6. Knit plain.</p> + +<p>7, 9. With white, purl.</p> + +<p>8, 10. Knit plain.</p> + +<p>Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The +sides are finished with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, +well drawn out, in the center of the pink stripe, and fastening +in center of white stripe with 1 double.</p> + +<p>Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and +composed of 10 threads each of pink and white.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Sport_Scarf" id="Sport_Scarf"></a>Sport Scarf</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr015-1.jpg" width="300" height="450" alt="Sport Scarf" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sport Scarf</span> +</div> + +<p>A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a +body color, with deep cream-color, green and rose in +combination with the brown for stripes. Using No. +3½ or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back +and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color +and knit (4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 +rows of cream, (2 of brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of +brown; join in green, (4 rows of green, 2 of brown) 3 times; +10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3 times; 64 rows of +brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2 of +brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse +from *, making the other end of scarf as directed for +first half.</p> + +<p>For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and +knot a strand in each stitch.</p> + +<p>For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on +48 or 50 stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting +will give work much more open. If desired one may introduce +rows of fancy knitting instead of the colored stripes. +In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will find it possible +to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a +pleasing study.</p> + +<p>Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton +with the Shetland floss or other wool which may be +chosen.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Scarf_in_Lattice-Stitch" id="Scarf_in_Lattice-Stitch"></a>Scarf in Lattice-Stitch</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 342px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr015-2.jpg" width="342" height="450" alt="Scarf in Lattice-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Scarf in Lattice-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p>Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as +many stitches as required for width of scarf, using a +multiple of 6 with 2 over.</p> + +<p>Knit back and forth 6 times.</p> + +<p>7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.</p> + +<p>8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, +(drop the "overs," and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip +the 6 long stitches to left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over +1st 3, knitting each, then knit the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting +1 at end of row. Take care the long stitches are not +twisted.</p> + +<p>9. 10, 11. Knit plain.</p> + +<p>Repeat from 7th row.</p> + +<p>Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and +tassel, or a bow of ribbon, as preferred.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Knitting_for_the_Red_Cross" id="Knitting_for_the_Red_Cross"></a>Knitting for the Red Cross</h2> + +<p class='center'>(Official Red Cross Photographs)</p> + +<h3>Sleeveless Sweater</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;"><a name="Illustration_Sleeveless_Sweater" id="Illustration_Sleeveless_Sweater"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr016-1.jpg" width="281" height="450" alt="Sleeveless Sweater" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sleeveless Sweater</span> +</div> + + +<p>Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (¾ pound), +fivefold, and a pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 +Red Cross needles will be needed; 11 stitches should measure +two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2 stitches +for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches. +Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit +28 stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 +stitches. Knit plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches +for 4 inches. Sew up sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes. +Two rows single crochet around neck and 1 row single crochet +around armholes.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr017-3.jpg" width="450" height="134" alt="Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together</span> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>Washcloth</h3> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 271px;"><a name="Illustration_Washcloth" id="Illustration_Washcloth"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr016-2.jpg" width="271" height="300" alt="Washcloth" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Washcloth</span> +</div> + + +<p>White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red +Cross needles No. 1.</p> + +<p>Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth +is about 10 inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape +to one corner.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>Service Sock</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 175px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr017-1.jpg" width="175" height="300" alt="Service Sock" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Service Sock</span> +</div> + +<p>A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn +for two pairs, with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches +on each of 2 needles, and 20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ +inches.</p> + +<p>Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra +stitch and purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at +back of leg, knit plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain +and purling the seam stitch for four inches.</p> + +<p>Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, +purl the seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped +stitch over, and knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing +as directed every 6th round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing +for one inch.</p> + +<p>For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch, +and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, +for 25 rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the +heel, slip the 1st stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, +purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, +turn; slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, +narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, +purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip +1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit +9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, +purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit +1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1, +turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, +purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit +14, narrow. Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down +side of heel next to needle just finished, knitting +each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the +needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down +other side of heel; then knit on with these half +the stitches left at top of heel.</p> + +<p>Knit 1 round plain; narrow the +2d round as follows: On 1st side +needle knit to within 3 of end, +narrow, knit 1; knit across front +needle; on side needle knit 1, +slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch +over, and knit to end. Decrease +in this manner every 2d round +until there are 15 stitches on each +side needle, reducing them to correspond +with the front needle, and +making 10 narrowings for the +instep.</p> + +<p>Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe +in the following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, +narrow, knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit +to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, +slip and bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat +last 3 rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between +three times, and after that decrease every row until there +are but 4 stitches on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing +the toe together and darning in with a worsted-needle.</p> +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>One-Piece Helmet</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 257px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr017-2.jpg" width="257" height="350" alt="One-Piece Helmet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">One-Piece Helmet</span> +</div> + +<p>One hank of yarn (¼ pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.</p> + +<p>Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for +front piece, and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece +to correspond for back. These pieces must be at least 9 +inches wide. Slip the stitches of both pieces on to 3 needles, +arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to be on beginning +of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added +(making 40 on 1st needle).</p> + +<p>Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36—36.</p> + +<p>Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. +Then on 1st needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 +stitches for face opening. (Try to keep same arrangement +of stitches on needles for further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 +forward and back on remaining 90 stitches for 1½ inches, +always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22 stitches loosely +to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½ inches +(adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st +needle, making 42 on 1st needle).</p> + +<p>Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit +2 stitches together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 +rows plain. Then knit 2 stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 +together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows +plain. Continue in this +way, narrowing on every +fifth round and reducing +number of stitches +between narrowed stitches +by 2 (as 7, 5, 3, etc.) +until you have 28 +stitches left on needles. +Divide on 2 needles, +having 14 on 1st needle +and 14 on the other.</p> + +<p>Break off yarn, leaving +12-inch end. Thread +into worsted-needle and +proceed to weave the +front and back together +as follows:</p> + +<p>* Pass worsted-needle +through 1st stitch +of front knitting-needle +as if knitting, and slip +stitch off—pass through +2d stitch as if purling—leave stitch on, pass thread through +1st stitch of back needle as if purling, slip stitch off, pass +thread through 2d stitch of back needle as if knitting, +leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the stitches are +off the needle.</p> +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>Muffler</h3> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 255px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr018-1.jpg" width="255" height="400" alt="Muffler" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Muffler</span> +</div> + +<p>Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair +amber needles No. 5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will +be required. Cast on 50 stitches, measuring 11 inches, and +knit back and forth until the muffler is sixty-eight inches +in length.</p> +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>Hot-Water-Bottle Cover</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 211px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr018-2.jpg" width="211" height="350" alt="Hot-Water-Bottle Cover" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Hot-Water-Bottle Cover</span> +</div> + +<p>White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red +Cross needles No. 1.</p> + +<p>Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the +work is 4 inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for +9½ inches more, or until entire work measures 13½ inches. +Next decrease 2 stitches at beginning and 2 stitches at end +of each needle until there are sixteen stitches left, and bind +off. Make another piece in same manner and sew together. +Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing +to tie around neck of bottle.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>Helmet Made in Two Parts</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr019-1.jpg" width="360" height="400" alt="Helmet Made in Two Parts" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Helmet Made in Two Parts</span> +</div> + +<p>One hank of yarn (¼ +pound); 1 pair Red +Cross Needles No. 2.</p> + +<p>The helmet is made in +two parts, which afterward +are sewed together.</p> + +<p><b>Front of Helmet.</b>—Cast +on 48 stitches (11 +inches), knit plain for 25 +ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, +purl 2 for 35 rows. On the +next row the opening for +the face is made as follows: +Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl +2, knit 2, knit and bind off +loosely the next 28 stitches +and purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, +knit 2, purl 2. Run the +stitches before the opening +on a spare needle and +on the stitches at the other +side of opening knit 2, purl +2 for 12 rows. The last +row will end at the opening, +and at that point cast +on 28 stitches to offset those +bound off. Begin at the +face opening of stitches on +spare needle and knit 2, +purl 2 for 12 rows. At the +end of the 12th row continue +all across to the end +of other needle, when +there should be 48 stitches +on needle as at first. +Knit 2, purl 2 for 24 rows.</p> + +<p><b>Top of Helmet.</b>—Knit +2, narrow (knitting 2 +stitches together), knit 14, +narrow, knit 14, narrow, +knit 12. Purl the entire +next row. On the 3d row +knit 2, narrow, knit 13, +narrow, knit 13, narrow, +knit 11. Purl 4th row. On +the 5th row knit 2, narrow, +knit 12, narrow, knit 12, +narrow, knit 10. Purl 6th +row. Continue to narrow +in the 3 places every plain +knitted row with 1 stitch +less between narrowings +until 9 stitches are left.</p> + +<p><b>Back of Helmet.</b>—Work +in same manner as for +front but omit the face +opening. Sew the stitches +of upper edges together +with joining-stitch. Sew +up the side seams, leaving +the plain knitting at shoulders +open.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 168px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr019-2.jpg" width="168" height="400" alt="Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet</span> +</div> + +<p>The thumbless mitt or wristlet +requires one half hank of +knitting-yarn, gray, with No. 2 +Red Cross needles or No. 11 or +No. 12 steel needles. Nine stitches +measure one inch. Cast on 48 +stitches and knit 2, purl 2, for +12 inches; bind off and sew up, +leaving an opening for the thumb +two inches in length, three inches +from one end. The ordinary +wristlets or pulse-warmers are +knitted in the same way, 8½ +inches long, and sewed up with +no thumb-opening.</p> + +<p>Wristlets made in one piece require +one half hank of yarn, +and 4 bone needles No. 3, or +steel needles No. 12. Cast on +52 stitches on 3 needles; 16-16-20. +Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 +inches. To make opening for +thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end +of "Third" needle, turn; knit +and purl back to end of "First" +needle, always slipping first +stitch, turn. Continue knitting +back and forth for 2 inches. +From this point continue as +at first for 4 inches for the hand. +Bind off loosely; buttonhole +thumb-opening.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>Bed-Sock</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 120px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr019-3.jpg" width="120" height="400" alt="Bed-sock" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Bed-sock</span> +</div> + +<p>One hank of yarn +(¼ pound) is +required, with Red +Cross needles No. +2 or steel needles +No. 11 or 12.</p> + +<p>Cast 48 stitches +on three needles, +16 on each. Knit +plain and loosely +for 20 inches. +Decrease every +other stitch by +knitting two +stitches together +until you have +12 stitches on +each of two needles +opposite each +other. Break off +yarn and weave +stitches together +as per directions +for finishing one-piece +helmet.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Drawers-Leggings" id="Childs_Drawers-Leggings"></a>Child's Drawers-Leggings, +Knitted</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr020-1.jpg" width="281" height="450" alt="Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are six hanks of Germantown +wool, a pair of bone needles No. 4, and a pair of steel +needles, No. 15.</p> + +<p>Cast on 68 stitches.</p> + +<p>1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.</p> + +<p>17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, +turn.</p> + +<p>18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.</p> + +<p>Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches +forward each row and knitting back on the same, until you +have 36 stitches on the needle. Knit back on these 36 +stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side of the work. +Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.</p> + +<p>Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 +ridges (not counting the 6 ridges at one side of work); in +next row narrow once at each end of row, and continue in +this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you have 50 +stitches remaining on the needle.</p> + +<p>Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the +cable-twist of ankle, thus:</p> + +<p>1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit +6, then knit the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the +twist, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, +knit 6, knit the 3 stitches from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, +turn.</p> + +<p>2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, +purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.</p> + +<p>3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, +purl 2, knit 7.</p> + +<p>Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the +twist, as directed in 1st row, every 6th row.</p> + +<p>For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back +8 stitches on these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and +forth until you have 8 ridges. Pick up the stitches around +edge of instep, and work back and forth along the entire +row for 4 ridges; bind off.</p> + +<p>Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams +and join the two by the middle seam.</p> + +<p>Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the +drawstrings, thus:</p> + +<p>1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; +repeat around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.</p> + +<p>2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten +in next; repeat.</p> + +<p>Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with +tassels.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Knitted_Hood_for" id="A_Knitted_Hood_for"></a>A Knitted Hood for +Miss Dolly</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 298px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr020-2.jpg" width="298" height="400" alt="A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly" title="" /> +<span class="caption">A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly</span> +</div> + +<p>Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 +stitches; knit plain back and forth until you have 10 +single ribs, then bind off 6, knit across to within 6 stitches +of the end and bind off these. This is for the front or turnover +of the hood.</p> + +<p>Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming +holes in which to run ribbon.</p> + +<p>Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 +extra stitches distributed along the front near the top in +order to make the back a trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row +and knit 1 row for a triple rib; repeat from * 16 times, always +slipping the 1st stitch of each row to give a good +selvage.</p> + +<p>Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure +that this is done on the wrong side, and just before knitting +the last row of last rib, as the binding off finishes the +rib and is essential in keeping all the ribs the same.</p> + +<p>Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple +ribs described. Widen twice each end of crown needle +during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number of ribs as the front, +narrowing once or twice each end of needle near extreme +end of crown.</p> + +<p>Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of +crown and fronts, about 18 stitches on each of the latter +and alternate loops on the crown; knit across with blue, +making a row of holes as on the front; knit 6 or 7 single ribs, +and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at lower edge of +front.</p> + +<p>Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces +made for it and tighten slightly, and finish with ties and +bows of ribbon.</p> + +<p>By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the +crown proportionately larger, these directions will be +found to serve admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a +hood as wanted.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Lesson_in_Crochet" id="A_Lesson_in_Crochet"></a>A Lesson in Crochet</h2> + + +<p>The stitches and terms given herewith are +such as are in general use, and were +taught the writer by an English teacher of +crocheting, herself a professional in the art. +In some periodicals and books, the real slip-stitch +is omitted, and the single is called +slip-stitch; the double is called single, the +treble is called double, the double treble is +called treble, and so on.</p> + +<p>There are different ways of holding the +crochet-needle and carrying the thread, and +many consider one way as good as another +unless, as is usually the case, one's own +method is thought a little the best. The +following instructions were given by the +English teacher in question, and are those +commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the +right hand very much as you hold a pen when +writing, letting the handle extend between +the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and +hold the needle. Hold nothing but the +latter in the right hand, not allowing the +fingers of that hand to so much as rest on +the work. Hold work with thumb and second +finger of left hand, letting the thread pass +over the forefinger, slightly raised, or held up +from the work, under the second, over the +third and under the little finger. These +instructions are especially good for using +yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work +as soft and fluffy as possible.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_1"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr021-1.jpg" width="400" height="308" alt="Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p><b>The chain.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_1">Figure 1.</a>) Make a loop of +thread around the needle, take up the +thread and draw through this loop (that +is, push the hook under the thread that +passes over the forefinger, draw it back, +catching the thread, and pull this through +the loop on the needle), forming a new +stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw +through this, and so continue until the +chain is of the length required, tightening +each loop as drawn through, so that all +will be of uniform size and smoothness. +After a little practise one does this without +thought. When abbreviations are +used, that for chain is ch.</p> + +<p><b>The slip-stitch</b> is properly a close joining +stitch: Drop the stitch on the needle, +insert hook through the stitch of work to +which you wish to join, take up the +dropped stitch and pull through, thus +making a close fastening. This stitch is +sometimes used to "slip" along certain +portions of the work, from one to another +point, but single crochet is more often employed +for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_2"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr021-2.jpg" width="400" height="187" alt="Figure 2. Single Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 2. Single Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Single crochet</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_2">Figure 2</a>, frequently +called slip-stitch, and sometimes mitten-stitch) +is made thus: Having a stitch on +needle, insert hook in work, take up the +thread and draw it through the work and +the stitch on the needle at the same time. +The abbreviation is s c.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_3"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr021-3.jpg" width="400" height="241" alt="Figure 3. Double Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 3. Double Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Double crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_3">Figure 3</a>). Having +a stitch on needle, insert hook in work, +take up thread and draw through, giving you +two stitches on the needle; take up thread +and draw through the two stitches. The +abbreviation is d c. There are many +variations of the double-crochet stitch; +the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is +formed by taking up the back horizontal +loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. +A quite different effect is given when the +hook is inserted under both loops.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_4"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr022-1.jpg" width="400" height="196" alt="Figure 4. Treble Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 4. Treble Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_4">Figure 4.</a>) Having a +stitch on the needle, take up the thread as +if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, +take up thread and draw through, making +three stitches or loops on the needle; * +take up thread and draw through two, +again and draw through two. The abbreviation +of treble crochet, is t c. It will be +noted that the single crochet has one +"draw," the double two, and the treble three, +from which these stitches take their names.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_5"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr022-2.jpg" width="400" height="167" alt="Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Half-treble or short-treble crochet.</b> +Like treble to *; then take up thread and +draw through all three stitches at once.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_6"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr022-3.jpg" width="400" height="211" alt="Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Double-treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_6">Figure 6.</a>) +Having a stitch on the needle, take up +the thread twice, or put it twice over +the needle, insert hook in work, take up +thread and draw through, making four +stitches to be worked off; (take up thread +and draw through two) three times. The +abbreviation of double-treble crochet is d t c.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="croch_fig_7"></a> +<img src="images/illus-hr022-4.jpg" width="400" height="283" alt="Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Triple-treble crochet.</b> (<a href="#croch_fig_7">Figure 7.</a>) +Take up thread three times, insert hook +in work, take up thread and draw +through, making five stitches on needle; +work these off two at a time, as in +double treble. The abbreviation is t t c.</p> + +<p>One sometimes has occasion to use other +extra-long stitches, such as quadruple +crochet (over four times before insertion +of hook in work), quintuple crochet (over +five times), and so on, which are worked +off two at a time, exactly as in treble or +double treble. In turning, one chain-stitch +corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches +to a half or short treble, three chain to +a treble, four to a double treble, five to +a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain +for each extra "draw."</p> + +<p><b>Parentheses ( ) and asterisks or stars</b> +* * are used to prevent the necessity of +repetition and save space. They indicate +repeats of like directions. Thus: (Chain +3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times +is equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble +in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, +chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * +chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, repeat +from * twice.</p> + +<p>The worker should be careful in the +selection of a hook. It should be well +made and smooth, and of a size to +carry the wool smoothly, without catching +in and roughening it. If too +large, on the other hand, the work is +apt to be sleazy. Needles that have +been used for some time work more +easily than new ones. If all makes of +crochet-needles were numbered in the +same way the size might be easily +designated; but it happens that no +two manufacturers use like numbers +for the same sizes, hence the rule given +is the best that can be.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Crocheted_Jacket" id="Crocheted_Jacket"></a>Crocheted Jacket</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 207px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr023-1.jpg" width="207" height="450" alt="Crochet Jacket" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Crochet Jacket</span> +</div> + +<p>One color or two may be used for making this pretty +jacket, which is extremely modish, and very comfortable +for the cool days and evenings sure to be experienced +during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold Germantown +will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for +the body and two of white for the border, if made in two +colors.</p> + +<p>Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double +in next; repeat from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double +under next 1 chain; repeat across, turn.</p> + +<p>Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches +long, for the back, bringing the +work to the shoulder.</p> + +<p>Now work back and forth for +one shoulder and front, repeating +2d row until you have made 9 +doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat +until you have made 4 rows.</p> + +<p>In the next row widen by making +2 doubles, 1 chain between, +in center of row, finishing row as +usual; widen in the center of +every 8th row until you have 15 +doubles in the row, then continue +without widening until the +front is of the same length as +the back.</p> + +<p>Leave 8 doubles for back of +neck and on the remaining 9 +doubles work the other front to +correspond.</p> + +<p>For the border: Commence +(with the border-color, if two +colors are used) at corner of +left front, make a treble under +1 chain (chain 3 for 1st treble), +* chain 1, a treble under next 1 +chain; repeat from * all around, +putting 2 trebles with 1 chain +between in same stitch at +corners, and on the shoulders +at the neck to shape the collar.</p> + +<p>Make another row in the same +way, then work in seed-stitch as +you did the body of the jacket +(a double under 1 chain, chain +1) for 8 rows, widening the +same stitches at corners each +time.</p> + +<p>Fold the garment at the +shoulders, bringing fronts and +back together. Commencing +in 10th chain from bottom of +front and back, work in the +usual way for 25 stitches, a +double under each chain. Work +from underarm around the +armscye until the sleeve is 12 +inches in length, or as long as +desired, then make the 2 rows +of spaces, in treble crochet, as before and finish with 7 +rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.</p> + +<p>For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 +for a picot; repeat.</p> + +<p>The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other +fancy stitch may be used that is liked. Among others may +be named Lancaster-stitch, made as follows: Having a +chain of an even number of stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, +turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, +over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw a loop +through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, +over, draw through all the loops on needle, * chain 4, a +double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or +joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same +stitch with last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop +through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, +over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw through +all the loops on needle, and +repeat from *; turn.</p> + +<p>3. A double in 1st space, +double around the thread between +4 chain and cluster; repeat, +ending with a double in +top of 3 chain with which last +row started. Repeat 2d and +3d rows for the pattern.</p> + +<p>The bird's-eye-stitch is +simple and pleasing: Having +a chain of desired length, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 1, a double in each +stitch of chain, turn.</p> + +<p>2. A double in double, taking +front loop of stitch in last row, +a double in next double, taking +back loop; repeat to end, and +repeat 2d row.</p> + +<p>Still another pretty stitch, +easily adjusted to any garment, +is as follows: Chain a +number of stitches divisible by +3, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 1, a double in each +remaining stitch of chain, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 1, a double in each +double of last row, turn.</p> + +<p>3. Chain 1, a double in +each of 2 doubles, * wool +over, insert hook in 3d stitch +of 1st row, take up wool and +draw through, (over, draw +through 2 stitches) twice, +miss 1, a double in each of +next 2 doubles; repeat from +* to end of row, turn.</p> + +<p>4. Same as 2d row.</p> + +<p>5. Chain 1, a double in +each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool +over and make a treble as +before, inserting the hook +under the treble of 3d row, +miss 1, a double in each of 2 +stitches; repeat from * to end, +turn. Repeat 4th and 5th rows.</p> + +<p>And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in +next stitch, repeat to end of row, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in +last row; repeat. Repeat 2d row.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Tam-o-Shanter" id="Tam-o-Shanter"></a>Tam-o'-Shanter +in Double Crochet</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 326px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr024-1.jpg" width="326" height="400" alt="Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p>For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted +and a ball of gray Angora wool, with a +hook large enough to carry the yarn easily.</p> + +<p>Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.</p> + +<p>1. Seven doubles in ring.</p> + +<p>2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of +stitch.</p> + +<p>3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.</p> + +<p>4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.</p> + +<p>5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.</p> + +<p>Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings +each row, until you have 30 doubles in each section—between +widenings—or more, if a larger crown is desired.</p> + +<p>33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p> + +<p>34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p> + +<p>35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.</p> + +<p>36 to 45. A double in each stitch.</p> + +<p>46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each +stitch and fasten off the last row neatly.</p> + +<p>Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: +Make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain +make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles, working +in both veins of stitch; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, +2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and +around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a +circle which will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then +work once around without widening, slip in the mold, * +miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed.</p> + +<p>For the edge of the button and the cord around top of +band either the double chain may be made, an ordinary +chain filled with double crochet, or—better still—the cord +may be knotted by what is called the "fool's delight" +method—which seems a very sensible method, indeed: +Take a length of the Angora wool six times as long as the +cord is wanted to be; indeed, it will be better to start with +a longer piece, for fear it may "take up" more rapidly than +anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one end of the +yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop, +then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between +thumb and forefinger of one hand (say the right), +with the yarn which pulls through the half knot under the +same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the +forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left +hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on +right forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw +through the non-pulling or left-hand thread—exactly as +you would make a chain-stitch in crochet—transfer the +knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and forefinger +of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and +draw up the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through +the half knot. Now the position of the loop, pulling yarn +and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in +the right. Continue by passing forefinger of right hand +through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the non-pulling +thread and drawing it through to form the new +loop (on right forefinger again), transfer the knot from left +hand to right, and pull up, repeating the process from beginning. +This is really a sort of double chain, and when +one has learned to make it evenly and well—as may be +done with a little practise—it will be found superior for +bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring +or a cord.</p> + +<p>Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, +and the cap is completed.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Ladies_Sleeveless_Jacket" id="Ladies_Sleeveless_Jacket"></a>Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket +or Hug-Me-Tight</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr024-2.jpg" width="400" height="341" alt="Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight</span> +</div> + +<p>Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color, +with a hook large enough to carry the yarn smoothly. +Commence with a chain of 140 stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell +of 3 trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen +for center of back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including +the 3 trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a +shell as before under 2 chain, then a treble in each following +to the end, turn. Work always in back vein of stitch to +produce the ribbed or striped effect.</p> + +<p>3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for +joining.</p> + +<p>Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 +stitches, then fold over and, starting from the other end of +the same row, crochet the two sides together for 25 stitches, +taking a stitch from each side. This will leave about 65 +stitches for armscye.</p> + +<p>For the border:</p> + +<p>1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, +miss 2; repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of +1st shell, and join to that.</p> + +<p>2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell +in previous row, and treble in treble; repeat.</p> + +<p>3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double +between 2 trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, +a double in single treble; repeat.</p> + +<p>Work around the armscye in same way.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Coat_Sweater" id="Childs_Coat_Sweater"></a>Child's Coat Sweater</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr025-1.jpg" width="400" height="340" alt="Child's Coat Sweater" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Coat Sweater</span> +</div> + +<p>Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, +and bone hook size 4, or a hook large enough to +carry the wool easily. The sweater is crocheted in the +length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.</p> + +<p>Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.</p> + +<p>2. A double in each double, working in back vein of +stitch to form a rib.</p> + +<p>3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, +draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting +from hook, and a loop through each of 2 doubles; take up +wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle, chain 1 to +close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made +(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last +perpendicular loop of the same star, and a loop through +each of 2 doubles, close the star by working off all the loops, +chain 1, and repeat to end of row, turn.</p> + +<p>Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, +then a row of star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 +rows of stars and 5 ribs; on next row work 39 stars, then a +rib, and continue until you have 3 rows of 39 star-stitches +each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten the wool +securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all +worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the +2d will not unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib +and fastened in at other end again; then chain 3, and proceed +with the row.</p> + +<p>Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the +1st 6 stitches (equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in +star-stitch; make a rib as directed. Work 2 more rows of +stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving 1 star less at the +top or neck-end each time.</p> + +<p>Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of +the back with single crochet, putting hook through a loop +of each part. If carefully done the joining will not be discernible. +Join under arms, also, leaving the opening for +armholes.</p> + +<p>For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a +double in each stitch, around the entire garment, fronts, +bottom and neck, widening at each of the lower corners in +each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work +around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; +then work around the bottom and across the front border. +The widening for miter is neater. The buttonholes are +made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss 5, and repeat, +making as many openings as desired, at equal distances. +In working back, next row, make also a double in each +stitch of 5 chain.</p> + +<p>For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work +a rib of doubles on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat +until there are 10 rows of star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking +care, as before, that the stars are worked on the right side +always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side with single +crochet, as you did the back.</p> + +<p>For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 +double in each stitch and turn back. Sew the sleeves into +the armholes, and sew on buttons of a size appropriate to +the garment and corresponding with the buttonholes.</p> + +<p>This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired +size by starting with a longer chain and making more +rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep the proportion. The +combination of stitches is a most attractive one.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Jacket" id="Childs_Jacket"></a>Child's Jacket</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr025-2.jpg" width="400" height="242" alt="Child's Jacket" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Jacket</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are three skeins of cream-white +Saxony and one skein of blue or pink, with a bone +hook of suitable size to carry the yarn smoothly.</p> + +<p>Make a chain of 78 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 +stars, widen) twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and +fasten wool, and fasten in again at beginning of row so as to +have all stars made on the right side. Or, one can work +back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st row.</p> + +<p>2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you +widen only every other row, and always exactly in the center. +Keep 8 stars on each front, thus constantly increasing +the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore between 1st and 2d +and 4th and 5th widenings.</p> + +<p>9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st +star on the back, continue the stars across the back, chain +22, and make 8 stars across front again.</p> + +<p>10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain +under each arm.</p> + +<p>11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row, +widening only in center of back every other row, as at +first. This completes the body of the jacket.</p> + +<p>21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool +at left front corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the +front. At the corner make 2 stars as if to widen, in order +to turn the corner neatly, and continue all the way around +to top of right front, not widening at all in the back of +border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.</p> + +<p>22. Stars all around, of color.</p> + +<p>23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain +3, then make 2 trebles in the eye of each star all around, +with 4 trebles in eye of star at corners, so as to make the +work lie smoothly.</p> + +<p>24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, +and make 2 trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with +4 at corners.</p> + +<p>25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.</p> + +<p>26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated +by 2 chain, in which to run cord or ribbon.</p> + +<p>27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.</p> + +<p>28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of +last row.</p> + +<p>29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the +collar.</p> + +<p>30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in +space between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, +collar and all; fasten off neatly.</p> + +<p>For the sleeve:</p> + +<p>1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, +make the required number of stars (not +widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the +chain under the arm.</p> + +<p>2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st +row, making star over star of previous row, +and joining underneath the arm.</p> + +<p>12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch, +only omit taking the stitch under the back +loop of star in last row, and take a loop +through each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus +drawing in the sleeve, and making only 12 +stars in the round.</p> + +<p>13. With the color, make star in star.</p> + +<p>14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye +of each star.</p> + +<p>15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th +rows of border.</p> + +<p>This makes a dainty, soft little garment. +If one likes, treble stitch may be alternated +with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, +after making a row of stars, instead of breaking +the wool, turn, chain 3, and make trebles +across, or the trebles may be crossed to give +a more fancy effect, making a treble in 2d +stitch, then a treble back in preceding stitch.</p> + +<p>Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels +made of both white and color, in the spaces around the neck.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Girls_Jacket" id="Girls_Jacket"></a>Girl's Jacket</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr026-1.jpg" width="400" height="267" alt="Girl's jacket" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Girl's jacket</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown +yarn and 1 skein of blue. Make a chain of +52 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 +double in next; repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops +in all, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in +next loop; repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 +trebles, turn.</p> + +<p>3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double +under next; repeat to end of row.</p> + +<p>Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of +blocks in all, alternating with rows of loops. Divide the +width into three parts, 4 blocks for back of neck and 4 for +each front. Work same as 3d row until you have made +4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back +same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in +next row, to widen, make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain +4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a double between next 2, +chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue across. +The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 +rows of 5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of +back. Make the other front in exactly the same way.</p> + +<p>For the border:</p> + +<p>1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 +blocks), work in blocks down the front, across the bottom, +putting 3 extra trebles at each corner to turn smoothly, up +over shoulder and down back, and so on around to opposite +corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.</p> + +<p>2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of +loops as described, fastening the chains between groups of +3 trebles.</p> + +<p>Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of +jacket, with always the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners +to turn, and following the 2d and 3d rows with the row of +loops in blue.</p> + +<p>For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn +at the back of jacket, at the desired width for sleeve—9 +blocks from top of shoulder, in the model; chain 9, fasten +to front, work around armhole with a row of loops (gray), +making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles +under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat +around, join, and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to +required length; the model has 25 rows of blocks, ending +with the row of loops.</p> + +<p>For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in +8th loop (the 3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work +around as usual to 3d loop from center on other side, turn, +make a row of loops, then a row of blocks. Fasten the blue +yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops; make a +row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue +to match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks +and 3 of blue chain-loops.</p> + +<p>For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st +block made in border, and make 3 trebles in the same +place, make a block in the side of each 3 following blocks, +along the neck toward the back, putting chain 1 between, +2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3 blocks. +Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs, +widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under +each of 2 consecutive loops in outer row. Join at +beginning and end of each row to upper edge of +jacket-border.</p> + +<p>Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double +between blocks, (chain 3, a double in same place) +twice. Crochet a chain of the blue yarn and use this +to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops +as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter +chain for each cuff, lace together and tie in a little +bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is used to draw +in the neck.</p> + +<p>Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The +jacket can be easily made large enough for an adult, +and is beautiful in blue-and-white Saxony for a baby.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Babies_Jacket" id="Babies_Jacket"></a>Babies' Jacket</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr026-2.jpg" width="400" height="291" alt="Babies' Jacket" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Babies' Jacket</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are three skeins of Saxony +yarn, one spool silk-finished crochet-cotton or +crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards of No. 1 +ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.</p> + +<p>Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each +of 96 stitches, drawing up to about five-eighths of an +inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the work will be +done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the +effect is not so good).</p> + +<p>2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles +in top of 3d treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened +in, which makes a cross; repeat, making 32 crosses in all; +break thread and again join in at the end where you began.</p> + +<p>3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over +next 2, 18 trebles over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again +21 over 7, which brings you to end of row. The 12 trebles +over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2 on each cross +and 1 between.</p> + +<p>4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.</p> + +<p>5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). +24 over 4 crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 +over next 4, 21 plain.</p> + +<p>6. Forty-eight crosses.</p> + +<p>7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, +(12 over next 2, 24 plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 +plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.</p> + +<p>8. Fifty-eight crosses.</p> + +<p>9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over +next 2, 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.</p> + +<p>10. Thirty-six crosses.</p> + +<p>11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 +extra over the 6 crosses at center of back.</p> + +<p>12. Forty crosses.</p> + +<p>13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.</p> + +<p>14. Forty-two crosses.</p> + +<p>15. Like 13th row.</p> + +<p>16. Forty-four crosses.</p> + +<p>17. Like 13th row.</p> + +<p>18. Forty-six crosses.</p> + +<p>19. Plain, without widening in the back.</p> + +<p>Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening +in at end of foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble +in next, * chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, and repeat. Now make +a row of crosses entirely around the jacket, putting extra +crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow this with a +row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners +to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles +in a stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with +the crochet-silk, making a double between 1st 2 trebles of +shell, (chain 2, a double between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, +double in double between shells, chain 2, and repeat.</p> + +<p>For the sleeves:</p> + +<p>1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 +over the 12 crosses.</p> + +<p>2. Fourteen crosses.</p> + +<p>3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.</p> + +<p>4. Fifteen crosses.</p> + +<p>5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.</p> + +<p>6. Sixteen crosses.</p> + +<p>7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.</p> + +<p>8. Seventeen crosses.</p> + +<p>9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.</p> + +<p>Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the +body of jacket. Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon +in the neck, and divide the remainder, running it in the 7th +row of sleeve and making a pretty bow on top.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Babys_Shoes_in_Crochet" id="Babys_Shoes_in_Crochet"></a>Baby's Shoes in Crochet</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr027-1.jpg" width="350" height="261" alt="Baby's Shoes in Crochet" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Baby's Shoes in Crochet</span> +</div> + +<p>These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or +silk, white or delicate color, or of wool. They are very +firm and neat, and shaped to the foot. The sample pair +was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or coarser material +will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same directions.</p> + +<p>Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 +stitches.</p> + +<p>1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in +end stitch, 1 in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in +last, join.</p> + +<p>2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double +down the side to within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, +1 in next, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each +down side, ending with 2 in 3d stitch from middle of heel, 1 +in next, and 3 in next, join.</p> + +<p>3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in +each down the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in +each of 3, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in +each down side, 2 in 4th stitch from the end, 1 in each of 3, +2 in middle stitch of heel, join.</p> + +<p>4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between +widenings.</p> + +<p>5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, +making 2 trebles with 1 chain between in each of the widenings +of the toe, and 3 trebles, with 1 chain between, at back +of heel.</p> + +<p>6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 +doubles in the widening spaces at side of toe and in the +middle of heel.</p> + +<p>7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as +usual on each side of toe and in the middle, also in middle +of heel; join.</p> + +<p>8. Same as 7th row.</p> + +<p>9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat +around, join to 3d of 4 chain.</p> + +<p>10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow +11 stitches from middle of toe by putting hook through +2 stitches at once, or by missing a stitch, also at middle of +toe, join.</p> + +<p>11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and +narrowing as directed.</p> + +<p>13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing +on the vamp, then turn and work back across vamp, +narrowing at the end, turn.</p> + +<p>14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing +in the middle and at end.</p> + +<p>15, 17. Like 13th row.</p> + +<p>16, 18. Like 14th row.</p> + +<p>19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle +of vamp and on the sides.</p> + +<p>20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in +each stitch.</p> + +<p>21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side +of vamp, 2d row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in +10 stitches, catch in 1st double of side of shoe, a single in +next double on side of shoe, turn; a double in each of 9 +doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 +in each following double, join to next double of side, a single +in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 +at end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, +miss 5, a double in each following double, join to next +double of side, a single in next, turn; double in each double, +with 5 in 5 stitches of chain, turn; chain 1, a double in each +double; join, slip in next double of side, turn; work 5 more +rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other row; then +chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and +double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work +back with double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles +in 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, double in double, join, slip in +next double, turn, work back with double in double, chain +1, turn, and work double in double around to within 14 +stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1, double +in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double +in double around to the other side. Continue thus until +you have worked 6 rows around top of shoe, then make a +buttonhole as before, and finish with 4 rows. The shoe +may be made higher, if desired, and more buttonholes +added.</p> + +<p>For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 +doubles in each double; a double in each double; a double +in every other double; slip in a pearl or porcelain button of +requisite size, draw together, and sew to the shoe, matching +the position of the buttonholes.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Ribbed_House-Slippers" id="Ribbed_House-Slippers"></a>Ribbed House-Slippers</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr028-2.jpg" width="450" height="252" alt="Ribbed House-slipper" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ribbed House-slipper</span> +</div> + +<p>Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate +twist. Commencing at the toe, make a chain of +11 stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 +stitches, 3 doubles in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 +stitches down other side of chain, in same stitches where +the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of +stitch to form the rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 +doubles in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn.</p> + +<p>3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each +side of center, each row.</p> + +<p>6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1, +turn.</p> + +<p>7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.</p> + +<p>Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the +vamp is as deep as desired. If preferred, the widening may +be made every row, putting 2 doubles in one and then the +other, alternately, of the widening doubles.</p> + +<p>For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain +1, turn, a double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue +until you have 44 ribs, or the strip is of sufficient length to +extend easily around the sole; join neatly to 24 doubles on +opposite side of vamp.</p> + +<p>Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the +elastic, thus: Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 +ribs, a triple treble (over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, +a triple treble between next 2, chain 5, repeat from * +around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1, join to 5th of +10 chain.</p> + +<p>For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in +work, over 4 times, pull through, and repeat in each stitch, +pulling the loops out about three-fourths inch, and always +taking yarn next to you to next stitch; make this for bottom +of beading, as well, and the latter will be entirely +covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between +the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for +instep of the same shade as the yarn.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Babys_Bootees" id="Babys_Bootees"></a>Baby's Bootees</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr028-1.jpg" width="289" height="350" alt="No. 1. Baby's Bootees" title="" /> +<span class="caption">No. 1. Baby's Bootees</span> +</div> + +<p>A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, +and is appreciated scarcely less by baby's mamma. +Two very pretty styles are given, one in <span title="Original read 'blue'">pink</span> and white, the +accepted colors for a girlie, the other in <span title="Original read 'pink'">blue</span> and white—<span title="Original read 'pink'">blue</span> +being the color usually chosen for a little son's belongings.</p> + +<p>Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 +stitches, turn.</p> + +<p><b>No. 1.</b> 1.—Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 +stitches, turn.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up +the back loop of stitch to form a rib, turn.</p> + +<p>Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the +last row chain 11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 +stitches of chain and in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, +making 4 of the long ribs, then, working only on the +10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the back of +the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.</p> + +<p>For the upper part of leg:</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining +to top of 3 chain.</p> + +<p>2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through +1st and 3d stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and +draw through the 3 loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to +close the cluster, * draw up a loop in same place with last +and another in 3d stitch, work off as before and repeat +around.</p> + +<p>3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the +space before pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the +space after, work off as before, take a loop in same space as +before, another in next space, work off, and repeat.</p> + +<p>4. Like 3d row, with blue.</p> + +<p>5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.</p> + +<p>7. With blue, a double in each stitch.</p> + +<p>8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each +double, join.</p> + +<p>9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, +chain 3, 1 double in same stitch, miss 1; repeat. +Fasten off neatly.</p> + +<p>For the foot:</p> + +<p>1. With blue make a double in each stitch +all around bottom of leg and instep.</p> + +<p>2. A double in each double, taking up +both veins of stitch to avoid a rib.</p> + +<p>3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.</p> + +<p>5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.</p> + +<p>7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining +the last row with single crochet on the +wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or +with ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on +upper part of leg.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 328px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr029-1.jpg" width="328" height="350" alt="No. 2. Baby's Bootees" title="" /> +<span class="caption">No. 2. Baby's Bootees</span> +</div> + +<p><b>No. 2.</b> Using the white yarn make a chain of 37 +stitches, join.</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.</p> + +<p>2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join. +Repeat 1st, 2d and 3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 +ribs each of pink and white.</p> + +<p>13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, +make a treble in next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming +a crossed treble; repeat around, join.</p> + +<p>14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. +Fasten off securely.</p> + +<p>For the foot:</p> + +<p>1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of +leg, draw up a loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all +on needle; take up yarn and draw through 1st stitch, * +again draw through 2, and repeat until all are worked off; +now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by +working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until +you have again the number of loops on needle; continue +until you have 9 rows of afghan-stitch.</p> + +<p>Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a +double in each stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 +more rows of doubles, 1 in each stitch of preceding row, taking +up both loops to avoid a rib, then 5 rows of pink in the same +way, joining the last row as before directed. Finish with +cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles +around top of bootee.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_Sweater_and_Cap" id="A_Sweater_and_Cap"></a>A Sweater and Cap +for Dolly</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 385px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr029-2.jpg" width="385" height="400" alt="Sweater and Cap for Dolly" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sweater and Cap for Dolly</span> +</div> + +<p>One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for +two sets; use a crochet-hook that will carry the wool +easily. Commence the sweater with a chain of 60 stitches.</p> + +<p>1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.</p> + +<p>2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row +(chain 3 for 1st treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to +end of row, turn.</p> + +<p>3. A treble and a double taken between treble and +double of last row; repeat.</p> + +<p>4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 +for 1st double).</p> + +<p>5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over +the shoulder.</p> + +<p>On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and +again the 2d row which completes one front. Work in the +same way on the other half of length, which brings you to +the center of the back and makes half of the sweater. Make +the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center +of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the +armscye of desired size.</p> + +<p>For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat +from 1st to 5th row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, +and join last row to 1st; also crochet sleeve in the armscye.</p> + +<p>Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet +with blue yarn, working in both veins of stitch to +avoid a rib, and putting 3 stitches in 1 at corners to turn +smoothly. After working 2 rows of left front make the +buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3; +then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.</p> + +<p>Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d +stitch in 1st row to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl +buttons to match the buttonholes.</p> + +<p>Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take +up yarn and draw through) twice, yarn over and draw +through all the loops on needle, chain 1 to close the "bean," +make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join to top of 1st.</p> + +<p>2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, +and between each 2; join.</p> + +<p>3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, +widening every 3d or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.</p> + +<p>4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as +necessary in order to keep the shape.</p> + +<p>Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes +the body of cap.</p> + +<p>For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the +blue yarn, working on the wrong side to form the band so +that it will turn up on the right side.</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches +from hook, also through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * +take up wool and draw through all the stitches on needle, +chain 1 to close the star, draw up a loop through eye of star +last made, under the 1 chain, another through back part of +last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2 stitches; +repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of +star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.</p> + +<p>Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to +top of cap by a crocheted cord.</p> + +<p>This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By +using fourfold Germantown the sweater will be large +enough for the small mother herself to wear, or it may be +easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and working in +the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap +may also be made large enough for a child by adding to the +number of bean-stitches in each row.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Cap_in_Bean-Stitch" id="Childs_Cap_in_Bean-Stitch"></a>Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr030-2.jpg" width="300" height="198" alt="Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are one skein of cream-white +Shetland floss and a little light-blue Saxony yarn, +with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5, join.</p> + +<p>1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook +in ring, draw loop through, over and draw through 3 +loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up a loop in ring, +over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through +all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, +with 1 chain between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st +stitch.</p> + +<p>2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook +through same stitch, draw through, over and draw through +all the loops; this is 1st stitch of each row. Chain 1, a +bean-stitch in following space, chain 1, bean-stitch in bean-stitch; +repeat around, join.</p> + +<p>3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d +bean-stitch, with 1 chain between, join.</p> + +<p>4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th +bean-stitch.</p> + +<p>5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional +space between widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in +every 5th, and so on, with bean-stitch in every 10th, in +10th row.</p> + +<p>11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.</p> + +<p>14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a +double in each stitch.</p> + +<p>15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in +both veins of stitch; narrow twice in each row.</p> + +<p>20, 21. Double in each double.</p> + +<p>22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.</p> + +<p>23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off +white yarn.</p> + +<p>28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop +in 2d chain from hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long +loops, over, draw through all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next +space with a single, and repeat. This makes a small, +pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.</p> + +<p>For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles +in 2d stitch of chain. Continue around and around without +joining, 1st row with 2 doubles in each stitch, then +widen sufficiently to keep the work flat until nearly as +large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two +more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, +slip the button in and continue, keeping the work tight +over the button until you have about half of space covered; +then break the yarn, draw up with needle and sew to center +of crown.</p> + +<p>This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three +years, and may be easily enlarged. The border may be +turned down over the ears for extra warmth.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Crocheted_Hood" id="Childs_Crocheted_Hood"></a>Child's Crocheted Hood</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr030-1.jpg" width="310" height="450" alt="Child's Crocheted Hood" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Crocheted Hood</span> +</div> + +<p>Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with +a hook large enough to carry the wool without fraying. +Chain 4 stitches, join.</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of +chain, and 2 through the ring; take up wool and work off all +together, chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye +of star (under 1 chain just made), another through back +part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off as before, and repeat +until you have made 6 stars; join.</p> + +<p>2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each +star in same stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th +in stitch ahead, so that you get 2 stars over each star of +preceding row.</p> + +<p>3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.</p> + +<p>4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back +and forth for 3 rows. Break wool at end of each row and +fasten in at beginning, so the stars will come on the right +side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and 3d stitches of +chain, then proceed as usual.</p> + +<p>Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a +row of stars entirely around the hood, widening by putting +an extra star at each corner of front to prevent drawing.</p> + +<p>For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double +treble in ring, chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to +4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon in and out the spaces, sew the +rosette in place, and finish with ties of ribbon.</p> + +<p>This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, +and any stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Crocheted_Hood_2" id="Childs_Crocheted_Hood_2"></a>Child's Crocheted Hood +in Wedge-Stitch</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr031-1.jpg" width="289" height="450" alt="Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p>Materials required are one and one-half hanks of +4-fold Germantown wool, white, or any preferred +color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size. While intended +for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged +to fit any head.</p> + +<p>Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.</p> + +<p>1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.</p> + +<p>2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool +over, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, +draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all the loops on +hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch, and repeat from * +until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.</p> + +<p>3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a +loop, over, insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, +draw through all loops on the needle, chain 1, * insert hook +in same space, draw up a loop, over, insert hook in next +space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all stitches on +needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches +in every 3d of previous round.</p> + +<p>4. Widen in every 5th stitch.</p> + +<p>5. Plain, that is, without widening.</p> + +<p>6. Widen every 3d stitch.</p> + +<p>7, 8, 9. Plain.</p> + +<p>10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and +fasten in at other end again.</p> + +<p>11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7 +stitches for back of neck.</p> + +<p>16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every +stitch. It is very pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the +Germantown when making the border.</p> + +<p>17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck +of hood.</p> + +<p>19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front, +working in both veins of stitch.</p> + +<p>Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at +back, a rosette on top, and ribbon ties.</p> + +<p>To make the hood larger you have but to continue +widening the crown until of proper size, which will make +the front proportionally longer and leave the neck wider. +Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way, following +the general directions given.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Childs_Toque_in" id="Childs_Toque_in"></a>Child's Toque in +Wedge-Stitch</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr031-2.jpg" width="400" height="375" alt="Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch</span> +</div> + +<p>This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen +years, and is easily enlarged to any desired size, requires +five hanks of eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors +may be used, say white for cap and blue for the turnover or +border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and Germantown +wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone +hook of suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool +easily without catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches +and join.</p> + +<p>1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a +loop, wool over, insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, +wool over, draw through all the loops on needle, chain 1, +and repeat until you have 11 wedge-stitches in the ring; +join.</p> + +<p>2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a +loop, wool over, hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool +over, draw through all loops on needle, chain 1, * hook in +same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next space, +draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook, chain +1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch +in every other stitch of last round.</p> + +<p>3. Widen in every 3d stitch.</p> + +<p>4. Widen in every 6th stitch.</p> + +<p>Work six times around plain, that is, without widening; +then if color is used for the turnover join it in and work +once around, turn the work so that the border will be right +side out when turned up, and work around five times more. +Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length you +wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card +five inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end +to form the head of tassel, and cut open the other end.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><img src="images/illus-hr032-1.jpg" width="100" height="111" alt="N" title="" /> +EEDLECRAFT pictures each month new +and beautiful pieces of needlework—knitting, +crochet, including the exclusive Mary Card +designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. Such +complete and accurate directions and descriptions +are given that any woman can make +the articles for herself without further instructions. +It explains the stitch to use and shows how to make it.</p> + +<p>NEEDLECRAFT will supply you at moderate cost +with transfer-patterns, perforated patterns, or stamped goods for +every piece of embroidery shown. Also many working +charts for Crochet and Cross-Stitch Designs.</p> + +<p>NEEDLECRAFT will show you the latest productions +in fashions and will furnish you with the best perfect-fitting, +seam-allowing patterns. From these patterns it is easy +to make garments for yourself that will look like the pictures.</p> + +<p>NEEDLECRAFT gives up-to-date ideas for decorating +your home and tells you how to do it at the lowest +cost. An interesting and instructive cooking-article appears +each month. In short, NEEDLECRAFT is a magazine +that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most +practical home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published.</p> + +<p>NEEDLECRAFT is printed on large presses made +expressly for it and uses the best of new type for each issue. +The paper stock has a high finish in order to bring out clearly +all the details of the fashion and fancy-work illustrations. The +beautifully colored covers are of exclusive design—a very artistic +border with the center panel showing a new piece of +needlework each month. Like NEEDLECRAFT itself, the +covers are different and practical.</p> + +<p>A sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. Just +write your name and address on a postcard and you will receive +a copy by return mail; or, better still, send us 35 cents +and receive the next twelve issues. You are sure to find +those very patterns and designs that you have been looking +for. If you are not more than pleased with NEEDLECRAFT +after reading the first number, tell us so and we will +cancel your subscription and return your money.</p> + +<p class='center'> +<span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br /> +Augusta—Maine<br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>How To Secure Your Yarn +Without Cost</h2> + +<p>The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no +gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the business woman must +needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to the busy housewife no duty is so +imperative as to exclude knitting from the daily routine. It almost seems as if the +women of America—all women, rich and poor alike—were devoting their united efforts +to one vast universal consecration—the comfort of our boys over there.</p> + +<p>There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that every +woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting of warm sweaters, +stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki, and that is—the tremendously +high price of worsted yarns. We can all squeeze out a little more time but we can +none of us spend more money than we have, and in these times the calls for cash +donations are urgent and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you +will use without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential to +your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their all for our safety. +You who have been unable to knit as much as you have wanted to, because you have lacked +the means to do with, need feel that drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided</p> + +<p><b>An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the +Regulation Blue, Gray and Khaki which you +can secure without cost by getting subscriptions +to Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:</b></p> + +<p>Send us only <b>10</b> yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular subscription-price of +<b>35 cents</b> each, and we will send each subscriber this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, +one one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We reserve the right +to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins if necessary.)</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>NOTE—To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a lady's sweater +or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the same liberal terms; or if you +prefer finer yarns we will provide Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions +a skein (Premium No. 6396), and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a +skein (Premium No. 6397).</p></div> + + +<p class='center'><span style="font-size: x-large;">Needlecraft</span><br /> +Augusta—Maine</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 403px;"> +<img src="images/illus-hr033-1.jpg" width="403" height="600" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HANDBOOK OF WOOL KNITTING *** + +***** This file should be named 26113-h.htm or 26113-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/1/1/26113/ + +Produced by Alicia Williams, Joyce Wilson, Susan Skinner +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> diff --git a/26113-h/images/cover.jpg b/26113-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ca2149 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/cover.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/cover.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ca2149 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/cover.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr001-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr001-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ca2149 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr001-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr001-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr001-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ca2149 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr001-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr002-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr002-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..46d0481 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr002-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr002-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr002-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..46d0481 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr002-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr003-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr003-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..66481d5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr003-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr003-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr003-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..66481d5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr003-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..729f02e --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..729f02e --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b617aa5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b617aa5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-3.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d3a182a --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-3.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-3.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-3.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d3a182a --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr004-3.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea6323f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea6323f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2de139f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2de139f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-3.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4be5c66 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-3.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-3.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-3.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4be5c66 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr005-3.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr006-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr006-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..48e1b8d --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr006-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr006-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr006-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..48e1b8d --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr006-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr007-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr007-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..780c5d5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr007-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr007-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr007-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..780c5d5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr007-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr008-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr008-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cf9c33f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr008-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr008-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr008-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cf9c33f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr008-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr009-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr009-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9bb97bf --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr009-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr009-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr009-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9bb97bf --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr009-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr010-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr010-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b368c07 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr010-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr010-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr010-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b368c07 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr010-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr011-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr011-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3806991 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr011-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr011-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr011-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3806991 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr011-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..011de05 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..011de05 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d747034 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d747034 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr012-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6272398 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6272398 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd3f8aa --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd3f8aa --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr013-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..70c6d33 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..70c6d33 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..659e4ad --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..659e4ad --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-3.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..64a6f9e --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-3.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-3.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-3.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..64a6f9e --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr014-3.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b55442a --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b55442a --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..369adf3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..369adf3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr015-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b82e212 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b82e212 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aba3591 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aba3591 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr016-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0bee3eb --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0bee3eb --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cdbf6c8 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cdbf6c8 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-3.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..292c5ac --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-3.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-3.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-3.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..292c5ac --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr017-3.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a1588a1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a1588a1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..36ccce1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..36ccce1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr018-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29429d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29429d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb8adcc --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb8adcc --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-3.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7852575 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-3.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-3.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-3.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7852575 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr019-3.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..248d9a4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..248d9a4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8f7fa84 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8f7fa84 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr020-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5523164 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5523164 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0b4a809 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0b4a809 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-3.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1249d1d --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-3.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-3.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-3.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1249d1d --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr021-3.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..69473e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..69473e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..70a91aa --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..70a91aa --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-3.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2f6eec5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-3.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-3.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-3.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2f6eec5 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-3.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-4.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-4.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..909f303 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-4.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-4.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-4.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..909f303 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr022-4.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr023-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr023-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed08d91 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr023-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr023-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr023-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed08d91 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr023-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b88bf53 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b88bf53 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c75bd7a --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c75bd7a --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr024-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c9fc6cd --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c9fc6cd --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5a69ad3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5a69ad3 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr025-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..332c61f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..332c61f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..32bf780 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..32bf780 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr026-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr027-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr027-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..72f9c32 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr027-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr027-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr027-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..72f9c32 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr027-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e9244f0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e9244f0 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..15a3fbe --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..15a3fbe --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr028-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ff12454 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ff12454 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a175f9b --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a175f9b --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr029-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3939d30 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3939d30 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5140759 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5140759 --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr030-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..742f57f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..742f57f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-2.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ff1663b --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-2.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-2.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-2.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ff1663b --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr031-2.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr032-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr032-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..480e54f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr032-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr032-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr032-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..480e54f --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr032-1.jpg~ diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr033-1.jpg b/26113-h/images/illus-hr033-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c1415dc --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr033-1.jpg diff --git a/26113-h/images/illus-hr033-1.jpg~ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr033-1.jpg~ Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c1415dc --- /dev/null +++ b/26113-h/images/illus-hr033-1.jpg~ |
