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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/25800-8.txt b/25800-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fce87ac --- /dev/null +++ b/25800-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5363 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of +Ripon, by Cecil Walter Charles Hallett + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Ripon + A Short History of the Church and a Description of Its Fabric + + +Author: Cecil Walter Charles Hallett + + + +Release Date: June 16, 2008 [eBook #25800] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BELL'S CATHEDRALS: THE CATHEDRAL +CHURCH OF RIPON*** + + +E-text prepared by Jonathan Ingram, Julia Miller, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 25800-h.htm or 25800-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/5/8/0/25800/25800-h/25800-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/5/8/0/25800/25800-h.zip) + + +Transcriber's note + + Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of + changes is found at the end of the book. Inconsistencies in + spelling and hyphenation have been retained. A list of + inconsistently spelled words is found at the end of the book. + + Text enclosed by equal signs was in bold face in the original + (=bold text=). + + + + + +THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF RIPON + +A Short History of the +Church & a Description +of Its Fabric + +by + +CECIL HALLETT, B.A. +Magdalen Coll., Oxford + +With 53 Illustrations + + + + + + + +[Illustration: RIPON CATHEDRAL FROM THE FOOTBRIDGE OVER THE SKELL.] + + + +[Illustration] + +London George Bell & Sons 1901 + + + + +PREFACE. + + +The original authorities for the history (both constitutional and +architectural) of the Church of Ripon have been most ably edited for the +Surtees Society by the Rev. Canon J. T. Fowler, F.S.A., in his +_Memorials of Ripon_ and _The Ripon Chapter Acts_ (_Surtees Soc._, vols. +74, 78, 81, 64). These authorities range from the Saxon period to the +times following the Reformation, but in the Introductions to vol. 81, +and in the Rev. J. Ward's _Fasti Riponienses_, included in vol. 78, the +story is virtually continued to our own day; while the aforesaid +Introductions epitomise, in its constitutional and architectural +aspects, the whole history of the church. + +To these volumes and to their Editor, who most kindly consented to +revise the proofs of this book, the present writer is very deeply +indebted. He has also had recourse to an article by Sir G. Gilbert +Scott, R.A., in vol. xxxi. of the _Archæological Journal_; to the same +Author's _Recollections_; to several articles on the Saxon Crypt, duly +specified on pp. 76, 77; to the Guides, by J. R. Walbran, F.S.A., +published by Mr. Harrison of Ripon; to Mr. Murray's _Cathedrals_; to the +volume by the Ven. Archdeacon Danks in Messrs. Isbister's Cathedral +Series; to _A Day in the City of Ripon_, by Mr. George Parker of Ripon; +to the old Guides by Farrer and Gent respectively; and to other works of +a more general character. + +His sincere thanks are also due to the Right Rev. the Bishop of Ripon +for permission to consult the library at the Palace; to the Very Rev. +the Dean for privileges granted in connection with the library in the +Cathedral and with the Cathedral itself; to the Ven. the Archdeacon of +Ripon and the Ven. the Archdeacon of Richmond for their courteous +assistance on several occasions; to Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite, V.P.S.A., +Mr. W. H. St. John Hope, Mrs. Swire, the Rev. H. A. Wilson, Fellow of +Magdalen College, the Rev. G. W. Garrod, and Mr. John Whitham for +valuable information on various points, historical and architectural; to +Mr. Ronald P. Jones for his excellent photographs, to the Archæological +Institute and other learned Societies for various other illustrations, +and to the Rev. E. H. Swann, the Rev. J. Beanland, Capt. E. J. Warre +Slade, R.N., Mr. F. Forbes Glennie, Mr. T. Wall, Mr. Watson, and others +for similar assistance. + +He desires also to express his thanks to Mr. E. W. Winser, Dean's +Verger, for much valuable local information; to Mr. Henry Williams, +Canons' Verger, for expert advice on points of masonry; and to both, as +well as to the Sexton, for that general assistance which they so +willingly rendered him throughout his investigation of the Fabric. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + CHAPTER I.--HISTORY OF THE CHURCH 3 + + CHAPTER II.--THE EXTERIOR 39 + + CHAPTER III.--THE INTERIOR 65 + + CHAPTER IV.--OTHER OLD BUILDINGS IN RIPON 133 + + APPENDIX-- + Abbots of the Monastery of Ripon 142 + Canons of Stanwick 142 + Deans of King James I. Foundation 143 + Deans of the Cathedral Foundation 143 + Bishops of Ripon 143 + + INDEX 145 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + PAGE + Ripon Cathedral from the Footbridge over the Skel _Frontispiece_ + Arms of the See _Title Page_ + The Nave, South Side 2 + View from the South-West 3 + Early Apsidal Chapel with Later Chapel superimposed 13 + The West Front before Restoration 17 + Mediæval Seals (3) 20 + Ripon Minster Anterior to 1660 (from an old Engraving) 32 + The Cathedral from the South-East 38 + The West Doorways 39 + View from the North-West 42 + Doorway, North Transept 47 + Doorway, South Transept 52 + Reconstructed Angle of the Great Tower 57 + Flying Buttresses, South Side of Choir 59 + The East End 61 + The North-Western Portion of the Nave 64 + Conjectural View of the Interior of Archbishop Roger's + Nave (by Sir G. G. Scott) 65 + Conjectural Plan of Archbishop Roger's Church + (by Sir G. G. Scott) 67 + The Nave, looking Westward 70 + Plan of Saxon Crypt 72 + The Saxon Crypt 73 + Conjectural Plan of St. Wilfrid's Crypt and Presbytery + (by Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite) 77 + The Two Fonts 79 + Bas-Relief in the South Aisle of the Nave 80 + The Western Arch of the Central Tower 83 + The North Transept 87 + Vault of North Transept Aisle 91 + The Rood Screen 95 + The Great East Window 97 + Bay of Archbishop Roger's Choir (by Sir G. G. Scott) 98 + Decorated Capital in the Choir 99 + The North Side of the Choir 100 + Bosses from the Choir-Vault (2) 103 + The Sedilia 105 + Choir Stalls 107 + Misereres 108 + Desk-End of Mayor's Stall 109 + Finial in front of the Bishop's Throne 110 + The West End of the Choir 112 + The North Choir Aisle 113 + Transitional Vaulting Corbel 114 + The Norman Crypt 118 + The Chapter-House 122 + Ancient Sculptures in the Chapter-House 124 + The Library 130 + The Old Chapel, St. Mary Magdalene's Hospital 132 + Chapel of St. Anne's Hospital 135 + Seal of St. Mary Magdalene's Hospital 138 + + PLAN OF THE CATHEDRAL _at end_ + + + [Illustration: THE NAVE--SOUTH SIDE. + (Showing junction of Transitional and Perpendicular work in the + Tower.)] + + + + + + [Illustration: VIEW FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.] + + +RIPON CATHEDRAL. + + +CHAPTER I. + +HISTORY OF THE CHURCH. + + +There is evidence that the neighbourhood of Ripon was inhabited during, +and perhaps before, the Roman occupation of Britain. Whether the place +was a settlement of the Romans is uncertain; but it was assuredly in +touch with their civilization, for several of their roads passed near +it--notably Watling Street, on which, six miles to the east, was +Isurium, the modern Aldborough; while imperial coins and other Roman +objects have been dug up in Ripon itself. It is not known whether the +Romans imparted to the local tribes of the Brigantes their own +Christianity; but two centuries after the withdrawal of the legions the +greater part of what is now Yorkshire was absorbed by the invading +Angles into their kingdom of Deira, which had itself been united with +the more northern kingdom of Bernicia to form the single realm of +Northumbria. Deira, however, seems to have retained its own +individuality. About the year 627 King Eadwine of Northumbria was +converted to Christianity by Paulinus, and the majority of his Deiran +subjects followed his example. + +=The Scottish Monastery.=--It is in the middle of the seventh century that +the recorded history of Ripon begins. Deira was then ruled by Prince +Alchfrith of Northumbria under his father, King Oswiu, nephew of +Eadwine, and Bede, writing not eighty years after the event, relates +that the prince chose Ripon for the site of a monastery. The date may be +fixed in or just before the year 657. This monastery was one of those +numerous religious colonies which were the result not only of the new +Christian fervour, but also of a reaction from war toward social life +and industry. It did not represent the Roman Christianity of Augustine +which Paulinus had introduced into Deira from Canterbury, but the +Christianity which had come from Ireland through St. Columba's +missionary college at Iona, and which was now predominant throughout the +north. The monks of Ripon were brought from Melrose Abbey on the Tweed. +Like most monks of that early period, they probably followed no definite +Rule. Their abbot was Eata, a pupil of St. Aidan, and previously Abbot +of Melrose and Lindisfarne, while the guest-master was no less a person +than Cuthbert, the legend of whose having entertained an angel unawares +at Ripon added, no doubt, to the growing reputation of the house. + +Its tranquillity, however, was not to last. The Roman party in the +Northumbrian Church, though inconsiderable, was gaining force, and +Alchfrith, deserting his former convictions, gave the new monastery, +with an endowment of thirty or forty hides of land, as Bede relates, to +one who had visited Rome, and who regarded the Irish (or, as it was +called by that time, the Scottish) Church as schismatical. + +The life of =St. Wilfrid of Ripon=--so full of adventure, misfortune, and +lasting achievement--can only be related here in so far as it bears upon +the story of this, his favourite monastery. It was in 661 that the +transference from Eata to Wilfrid took place, and at once the Scottish +monks, refusing to conform to Roman usages, left Ripon in a body. It is +probable that Wilfrid imposed upon their successors the Benedictine +Rule, which he had studied at Rome. The new Abbot was not yet in +priest's orders, but was presently ordained at Ripon by Agilbert, the +Frankish Bishop of Wessex. In 664 he took the action for which he is +especially remembered in English history. Appearing at the Synod of +Whitby, he prevailed upon King Oswiu to throw in his lot with the Roman +party, and was thus the means indirectly of preventing the isolation of +the England of that time from the Church and civilization of the +Continent. Almost immediately afterwards Abbot Wilfrid became Bishop of +Northumbria, and this tenure of the two offices by the same person was +perhaps the origin of the subsequent connection of Ripon with the +Archbishops of York.[1] Wilfrid insisted on going to be consecrated by +Agilbert, who was now Bishop of Paris, and so long did he remain abroad +that on his return in 666 he found another bishop, Chad (afterwards St. +Chad of Lichfield), in possession of the see. He therefore retired to +Ripon for three years, during which, however, he visited Mercia and also +Kent, where he met Aedde, or Eddius, who became his chaplain and +biographer. + +=The Saxon Monastery.=--In 669 Wilfrid was restored to his see by +Theodore, Archbishop of Canterbury, and soon afterwards began to build +at Ripon. The Scottish monastery, which was probably of wood, is thought +to have occupied a site between Priest Lane, Stonebridgegate,[2] and a +nameless road which connects them. Wilfrid now abandoned it, and erected +upon a new site a more imposing monastery of stone.[3] The practice of +building in stone seems to have become uncommon in Britain after the +departure of the Romans, and Wilfrid is thought to have employed foreign +workmen, perhaps Italians.[4] His church is described by Eddius, +himself now a Ripon monk, as "of smoothed stone from base to summit, and +supported on various columns and (?) arcades (_porticibus_)," and was +doubtless of that Italian type which had become identified in Britain +with the Roman party in the Church, as opposed to the Scottish mission. +The Scottish type of church consisted of a small aisle-less nave and +square chancel: the Italian type generally had aisles, and the altar was +usually raised upon a platform, beneath which was a crypt called +_confessio_. A little later than 670 A.D. Wilfrid's new minster was +solemnly dedicated by him in honour of St. Peter, in the presence of a +great concourse of clergy and nobles, headed by the King of Northumbria, +Ecgfrith, the successor of Oswiu. The endowments seem to have included +at this time certain lands round Ripon which had belonged to the British +Church before the coming of the Angles, and to have been now increased +by grants--some as far distant as Lancashire--made by the great men +present at the ceremony. Wilfrid himself gave a splendid copy of the +Gospels, written in gold upon purple vellum, the beginning perhaps of a +library.[5] The feasting was kept up for three days--indeed, no +monastery could have had for its church a more striking dedication. And +for the next seven years Ripon must have shared the importance of the +Abbot-Bishop, whose state rivalled that of the king. By persuading the +queen to become a nun, however, he presently lost the royal favour; +while the great size of the diocese, which extended at last from the +Forth to the Wash, prevented the achievement of complete success in his +episcopal work. + +As yet the see of Canterbury was the sole archbishopric, and in 678 +Archbishop Theodore--already known as an organizer of the +episcopate--was invited to the court of Northumbria. With Ecgfrith's +approval, but without consulting Wilfrid, he divided the diocese into +the three sees of Hexham, York, and Lindsey, answering respectively to +the tribal divisions Bernicia, Deira, and the land of the Lindiswaras +(Lincolnshire). Wise though this action was, it was naturally resented +by Wilfrid, who appealed to the Pope--the first appeal of the kind ever +made by an Englishman--and set out himself for Rome. He was destined not +to return till 680, and even then to be kept out of his bishopric till +686. Ripon was now in the new diocese of York, but in 681 Theodore +constituted yet another diocese, of which he made Ripon the cathedral +town. + +Of =Eadhead, First Bishop of Ripon= (681-686), little is known. Originally +a priest at the court of Oswiu, he had accompanied the intruded bishop, +Chad, when the latter sought consecration at Canterbury during Wilfrid's +absence for consecration in Gaul. Eadhead had afterwards been appointed +by Theodore to the see of Lindsey, and was translated thence to Ripon +when Lindsey was recovered by the Mercians. + +His tenure of his new office lasted for five years only, for in 686 +Aldfrith, the successor of Ecgfrith, restored Wilfrid--not indeed to his +original bishopric of Northumbria, but to a see which combined the +lately-formed dioceses of Ripon and York[6]. Eadhead accordingly +retired, and there were no more Bishops of Ripon for twelve centuries. + +To Wilfrid was restored not only his bishopric, but also his monastery +of Ripon, which he retained in peace for the next five years. At the end +of that time a long dispute arose with Aldfrith, who was veering back to +the diocesan partition of Theodore, and Wilfrid, deprived of his see for +the third time, crossed over into Mercia. In 703 a synod was held at +Austerfield, the King and Berhtwald, Archbishop of Canterbury, being +present, when Wilfrid was actually asked to promise that he would cease +to act as bishop, that he would accept the partition of Theodore, and +that he would retire to Ripon and not leave the monastery without the +king's permission. + +Though he was now a man of seventy, he set out once more for Rome, and +this time as before the Pope decided in his favour. Returning to Ripon +in 705, he attempted to conciliate Aldfrith's successor Eadwulf, but in +vain. In the same year, however, Eadwulf was succeeded by Osred, and +presently another synod was held, this time at Nidd, seven miles south +of Ripon, when it was decided, in the presence of Osred and the now +relenting Berhtwald, that Wilfrid should have the monastery and see of +Hexham (resigning York) and the monastery of Ripon, thus restored to him +for the second time. + +In 709 he received a call to Mercia, which had already twice received +him in his adversity, and in which he had accepted the bishopric of +Leicester. Immediately before his departure he was at Ripon, where he +kept his treasure, and having a presentiment that he would never return, +he bequeathed a portion of his wealth to the monastery, appointed +Tatberht to succeed him as Abbot, and took an affecting farewell of the +whole community. Arriving at his monastery of Oundle, in +Northamptonshire, he was seized with illness, and died there on October +12 in the seventy-sixth year of his age. The body was placed on a car +and carried in solemn procession to Ripon, where it was buried on the +south side of the high altar in his own minster. + +In 710 the anniversary of his death was kept at Ripon with great +solemnity, and out of such commemorations, probably, arose the feast of +his _Depositio_,[7] which was afterwards kept on every 12th of October. +According to Eddius a remarkable phenomenon occurred on this occasion. +In the evening the monastery was suddenly encircled with brilliant +light, as of day, and whether this was a display of Northern Lights or +not, it was regarded as a Divine testimony to the sanctity of Wilfrid. +The story shows, at any rate, that he was already beginning to be +regarded as a saint, and it was probably about this time that his name +was coupled with St. Peter's in the dedication of the Church. Miracles +were worked at his tomb, and it became an object of pilgrimage; but +little is known of the period immediately succeeding his death, save +that the dwellers around Ripon (as a twelfth century writer, Eadmer, +represents) first encouraged the cult of the saint, then became +disgusted at the crowds it drew, and finally endeavoured to check it +altogether. Wilfrid was succeeded in the abbacy by Tatberht, and history +has recorded the names of three more abbots who followed each other +toward the end of the eighth century, Botwine, Alberht, Sigred; and of +one of uncertain date, Uilden or Wildeng.[8] In 791 a noble named +Eardwulf, who had plotted against Ethelred, then King of Northumbria, +was put to death (as it was thought) at the monastery gate by the king's +orders. The monks carried him 'with Gregorian chantings' to the +precincts of the church, where they laid him out, but after midnight he +was found within the building--a recovery which was regarded as +miraculous. + +Ripon did not escape the violence of the Danes. It is thought that about +the year 860 they burned the town and did some damage to the church, and +the remarkable mound known as =Ailcy Hill=,[9] near the Canons' Residence, +and due east of the Cathedral, is probably a relic of some battle of +this period. In the street-names too, all ending in 'gate' (which in the +sense of 'way' is a Danish word), another trace may perhaps be found of +their presence, as well as of the existence of a town at this early +period. The town probably grew up around the monastery. It has been +believed that a civic charter was granted by King Alfred in 886; but +this is impossible, even if such charters were ever granted at this +time, for Alfred had resigned all this part of England (which since +about 839 had owned the overlordship of Wessex) to the Danes in 878. + +One of the great events in Ripon history is the visit of Alfred's +grandson =King Athelstan=. Yorkshire had lately been a separate Danish +kingdom, but it passed under the direct rule of Wessex in 926, and it +was either in that year that Athelstan came, or in 937, when he defeated +the Scots and other northern rebels at Brunanburh. It was to this king +that the church afterwards referred the grant of its most important +privileges. Among these was that of =sanctuary=, by which homicides, +thieves, debtors, etc., could flee to Ripon and live there under the +protection of St. Wilfrid for a specified time. The area within which +they were protected extended one mile from the church in every +direction, and the limit was marked by eight crosses, the base of one of +which is still to be seen on the Sharow Road. The penalties for +molesting refugees were afterwards graduated as follows:--between the +limit and the graveyard wall, £18; within the graveyard, £36; within the +choir (where the pursued sought the last possible refuge at the +'grythstool,' or chair of sanctuary), confiscation of goods and possible +death. Those who took sanctuary were called 'gyrthmen' or 'grythmen' +(from the Anglo-Saxon 'gryth' 'peace'), and undertook, among other +things, to carry the banners before the relics of St. Wilfrid in certain +processions. They were under the spiritual charge of a 'gryth-priest.' +The protection of the outer sanctuary can hardly have been extended to +Ripon men, as theoretically the whole town could then have committed +crimes with impunity, and practically the criminals would not have been +safe from their fellow-townsmen. Ripon debtors did indeed enjoy +protection here at Rogation-tide, but as a rule men of Ripon would seek +sanctuary at Durham or Beverley. Athelstan is also said to have granted +to the church a jurisdiction over its lands independent alike of the +northern archbishop and of the king, with the right to inflict the +ordeals of fire and water, and with exemption from taking oaths, from +taxation, and from military service.[10] Of the two charters in which +these grants are set forth, one is, indeed of the eleventh or twelfth, +and the other of the thirteenth century, but Athelstan may at any rate +have done something to give rise to the tradition, though it is +impossible to tell exactly what. The story of his having given the manor +to the see of York is doubtless misleading. The territorial sway of the +Archbishop at Ripon must be of earlier origin, and it may even have +arisen out of the grant of the monastery with its thirty or forty hides +of land to Wilfrid and his retention of them after his elevation to the +see of Northumbria. + +The connection of the monastery with the Archbishop is illustrated in +the reign of Athelstan's brother Eadred, when Archbishop Wulfstan, by +aiding a rebellion for the purpose of again setting up a Danish king at +York, drew down the royal anger upon Ripon. In 948 (or 950, according to +one authority) Eadred harried Northumbria, and then, says the Worcester +Chronicle, "was that famed minster burned at Ripon, which St. Wilfrid +built." Wulfstan himself was deprived and imprisoned. + +About two years later the half-ruined and deserted church was visited +(the see of York being vacant) by Oda, Archbishop of Canterbury. There +was a tradition in the sixteenth century that he rebuilt it, but his +visit is also memorable for another tradition, namely, that he +translated the bones of St. Wilfrid to Canterbury. Hence arose a fierce +dispute between Canterbury and Ripon, each claiming that it possessed +the body of the Saint. The claim of Canterbury, which is accepted to +this day by the Church of Rome, is supported by the assertion of Oda +himself, and by several subsequent chroniclers, one of whom, however, +attributes the translation to St. Dunstan, while another goes so far as +to concede that Oda left a portion of the bones behind. But Ripon always +maintained that it possessed the whole, and that the relics removed had +been those of Wilfrid II. (Archbishop of York, 718-732). According to +the contemporary biographer of Oswald (Archbishop of York, 972-992) the +bones of the Saint were at Ripon in the tenth century, and Oswald +solemnly enshrined them--whence that feast of St. Wilfrid's translation +which was afterwards kept on the 24th of April; and a later chronicler +speaks of "the body of the blessed Wilfrid" as being at Ripon in the +reign of Stephen. The claim of Canterbury was forgotten for a time in +the glories of St. Thomas à Becket, while that of Ripon became more or +less established in the north. In 1224 Archbishop de Gray, who +translated the alleged relics at Ripon to a more splendid shrine, +declared that he had found the skeleton complete. In the fifteenth +century Henry V. himself writes to Ripon of his reverence for "St. +Wilfrid, buried in the said church." In the sixteenth, Leland, while +recording a common opinion that Oda rebuilt the minster, makes no +mention of any removal of the relics. The controversy will perhaps never +be decided definitely, but it is interesting in view of the cult of St. +Wilfrid at Ripon in the middle ages. + +The account of the enshrinement of the relics by Oswald has been thought +to imply that it was he who rebuilt the monastery, and that he filled it +again with monks. Whether it was rebuilt by Oda or Oswald, the body of +St. Cuthbert rested here in 995 on its way from Chester-le-Street to +Durham. From this point onwards, however, no more is heard of monks at +Ripon, and it may be interesting to recall here the part which this +monastery had played in the history of the Church. Its first abbot, +Eata, had become Bishop of Hexham and of Lindisfarne. It had been for a +time the home of St. Cuthbert. Under Wilfrid, Ceolfrith, one of its +monks, had become Abbot of Wearmouth, and another, Æthelwald, had +carried on Cuthbert's work in the Farne Islands. In accepting and +treasuring the staff of St. Columba, the Ripon of Wilfrid had forgotten +something of its hostility to the Scottish mission. Through Wilfrid, +Ripon had been connected with the founding of other monasteries, Hexham, +Selsey, Lichfield, Oundle. Through his labours, again, and those of St. +Willibrord, another of its monks, it had become known as a great centre +of missionary work. Wilfrid had strengthened Christianity in Mercia and +Kent, and may claim to have introduced it into Sussex and the Isle of +Wight. Abroad he had carried the Gospel to the Frisians, and his work +among them was splendidly completed by Willibrord, who became Archbishop +of Utrecht.[11] + +=The College of Secular Canons.=--From 995 to the Conquest, the history of +Ripon is almost a blank. During that time the monastery, by a reversal +of the more usual process, became converted into a college of secular +canons, but nothing is known of the manner in which the change was +effected. The last Saxon Archbishop of York, Ealdred, who crowned both +Harold and the Conqueror, is said to have founded prebends--perhaps +giving lands out of his manor, and the Canons of Ripon duly appear in +Domesday Book (1085-6). In 1070 the Conqueror, to whom the north had +given much difficulty, ordered the Vale of York to be harried. Ripon +suffered severely, and in Domesday Book the surrounding lands are +recorded as "waste." The minster probably shared in the general wreck. + +What happened to it in the succeeding period is not definitely known. It +may have been entirely rebuilt, as most great Saxon churches were after +the Conquest, or it may have been rebuilt partially, or merely enlarged. +That something was done is proved by the existence south of the choir +of some Norman work which has been attributed to the first Norman +Archbishop, Thomas of Bayeux (1070-1100), or to Archbishop Thurstan +(1114-1141). + + [Illustration: EARLY APSIDAL CHAPEL WITH LATER CHAPEL SUPERIMPOSED.] + +The former died at Ripon. Indeed, the Archbishops had been in the habit +of residing here since the end of the tenth century, and they duly +appear in Domesday Book as lords of the manor, of which the canons' land +is apparently treated as a part. It is worthy of note that Domesday Book +records also the 'soc' jurisdiction and freedom from taxation which are +mentioned in the 'Athelstan' charters. The exemption also from the +king's officers which is set forth in the same charters, was proved in +1106, when an attempted invasion of the liberties of the Church by the +Sheriff of York was successfully resisted by Archbishop Gerard before +arbitrators appointed by Henry I. This king also exempted the lands of +Ripon from castle-building, and granted to the Canons and the Archbishop +a fair at the feast of St. Wilfrid's translation (April 24th). In the +next century fairs were also claimed for the feast of his _Depositio_ +(October 12th), and for the feasts of St. Michael and of the Finding of +the Holy Cross. + +=Archbishop Thomas II.= (1109-1114) founded the =Hospital of St. John the +Baptist=, and another Hospital, that =of St. Mary Magdalen=, of which the +chapel remains, was founded by his successor, =Archbishop Thurstan= +(1114-1141). Both these Hospitals were affiliated to the Church, and the +masterships were in the gift of the Archbishop. St. John's afforded +shelter to poor travellers who came in through the forest which then +adjoined the town. When the forest was cleared, the endowment provided +exhibitions for a few poor boys, who lived here while they pursued their +studies in "grammar" (perhaps at the Grammar School), with a view to +becoming clerks. The two hospitals, and a third which was founded later, +were placed at three of the principal entrances to the town, with the +express intention, perhaps, of assisting the pilgrims who resorted to +the shrine of St. Wilfrid. + +Thurstan added one more canon to the staff by founding the prebend of +Sharow. He may also be called the founder of Fountains Abbey, which was +built on land assigned by him out of his domain of Ripon. + +In the troubles of the reign of Stephen, Ripon took no small share. When +the Scots descended into Yorkshire, nominally to aid the Empress Maud, +Thurstan sent against them all the levies which an archbishop, as a +feudal baron, could muster, including doubtless the men of his manor of +Ripon, and the victory which they won near Northallerton in 1138 is +known as the Battle of the Standard, from the banners of the three +mother-churches--Ripon, York, and Beverley--which waved over the English +army. Ripon was soon to experience the anarchy which prevailed toward +the end of the war. In 1140 Alan, Earl of Richmond, entrenched himself +on a neighbouring hill and grievously oppressed the town and its +inhabitants. Led by him, the large landholders in the neighbourhood +broke open the storehouses and granaries of the archbishop, and in 1143 +Earl Alan himself burst into the church with an armed band and attacked +Archbishop William Fitzherbert (afterwards St. William of York), who was +standing by St. Wilfrid's shrine. The Archbishop's offence may have been +that he was the king's nephew. At any rate he was detested by the +Cistercians, who were strongly represented here by Fountains Abbey, and +Ripon seems to have sided with them, for in 1148, when Archbishop +William was temporarily deprived of his office, it was to Ripon that his +supplanter, Archbishop Murdac, retired when he durst not enter York. +Stephen confirmed to the College all the privileges granted by his +predecessors. + +=Building of the Present Church.=--The reign of Henry II. is marked by +another rebuilding of the church. William was succeeded in 1154 (the +year of the king's accession) by =Archbishop Roger de Pont l'Evêque= +(1154-1181). This prelate is known in politics for his opposition to +Thomas à Becket, and in art for his prominent share in the development +of our national architecture. There is perhaps no more important example +of the transition from the Norman to the Early English style than his +work at Ripon. With the exception of the crypt under the present +crossing, and of some Norman work south of the present choir, he rebuilt +the whole church, and history has recorded the wording of a deed in +which he gives "£1000 of the old coinage for the building of the +basilica ... which we have begun afresh."[12] Roger's church was a +cruciform building, and its nave had no aisles. A great portion of his +work remains--the two transepts, half of the central tower, and +portions of the nave and choir. The plan (see below, p. 67) was typical +of the early history of the place and of its subsequent conversion from +a monastery into a college of secular canons; for the aisleless +cruciform arrangement in churches was developed from a combination of +the Scottish type with the Roman or basilican, and the absence of aisles +was, or rather had been at a slightly earlier period, the recognized +mark of a secular as opposed to a monastic church. In giving aisles to +the choir Roger's plan was singular, for it was not usual for a choir to +have aisles when the nave had none. Except by the addition of +nave-aisles, the dimensions of his plan (as Walbran remarked) have not +been materially exceeded; and Ripon is an example of the size to which +churches of canons often attained, in spite of the fact that their plan +was generally that of a mere parish church. + +The next archbishop, Geoffrey Plantagenet, was often in disagreement +with his brothers, Richard I. and John, but the manor of Ripon is said +to have been the only portion of his temporalities of which the latter +king did not deprive him. + +After Geoffrey's death the see was vacant for nine years until 1216, the +year of the accession of Henry III., when it was given to =Archbishop +Walter de Gray= (1216-1255). In the same year 'spiritual fraternity' was +formally concluded between Ripon and Fountains; and a somewhat similar +arrangement was made a little later with Southwell, which since Henry I. +had shared with Ripon and Beverley the dignity of a mother-church or +pro-cathedral in the diocese of York. In 1224, at the request of the +Canons, Archbishop de Gray translated the relics of St. Wilfrid (if such +they were) to a new shrine, enshrining the head separately in such a way +that it was exposed to view. He also granted an indulgence of thirty +days to all who should make pilgrimage to the saint's new resting-place. +This second translation never became a feast, but it doubtless +stimulated the cult of St. Wilfrid afresh, and probably brought +considerable profit to the Church. + +A few years later, at any rate, an important alteration was made in the +fabric, by the building of the present west front with its two flanking +towers, and the tall wooden and lead-covered spires which once crowned +the latter and the central tower were probably erected at this period. + +In 1230, the Archbishop founded a seventh prebend--that of Stanwick; +and in 1241 sanctioned the addition of the parish of Nidd to the common +property of the College. + + [Illustration: THE WEST FRONT BEFORE SIR G. G. SCOTT'S RESTORATION. + (From an old print, by the kind permission of the Ripon Museum.)] + +As yet, most of the prebends were distinguished by the names of the +Canons who held them, or of Saints; and it was not till 1301 that they +were named after the principal hamlet or township in each--Stanwick, +Monkton, Givendale, Sharow, Nunwick, Studley, Thorp. They were all in +the neighbourhood except Stanwick, which was in the North Riding, near +Richmond. The Church was (as it still is) parochial as well as +collegiate. Each prebend carried with it a cure of souls, yet all +(except Stanwick) were included in the huge parish of Ripon, which +extended to Pateley Bridge, and in 1300 had a radius of nine or ten +miles. Thus the collegiate establishment differed from the usual type in +which each prebend was a separate parish with a church of its own. +Moreover, there was neither Dean nor Chancellor. The Canons may at first +have lived in common, but as early as 1301, and probably earlier, they +were dwelling in separate prebendal houses round the Church. There is no +evidence that they ever resided on their prebends, except in the case of +the Canon of Sharow, whose residence was at that place. The canonries, +having been founded by Archbishops of York, were in the gift of the see, +or of the Crown when the see was vacant. The Canon of Stanwick was _ex +officio_ Ruler of the Choir, whence his obligation to reside in Ripon in +spite of the remoteness of his prebend, which was served by a vicar. +Similarly the Canon of Monkton was always Treasurer, and had charge of +the Chapter-house, the ornaments and plate, and the High Altar. + +The revenues of the church may be divided as usual under three heads. +There was a Common Fund, arising from certain rents, tithes, fees, and +oblations; a survival perhaps of a time when the Canons lived in common. +Secondly, there were the revenues drawn by the Canons from their +respective prebends, and consisting partly of rents, but chiefly of +tithes. The prebend of Stanwick was worth about twice as much as any +other. Thirdly, there was the Fabric Fund, arising from certain rents, +oblations,[13] and licences, from the profits of St. Wilfrid's +burning-iron (with which cattle were branded to keep off murrain),[14] +and, in later days, of the pok-stone (which was probably regarded as in +some way a preventive against the 'pokkes' of sheep and cattle); but +especially from the farm of indulgences. When much building was in +progress the Canons' incomes were afterwards specially taxed, and once +or twice Peter's-pence were actually withheld from the Pope and devoted +to architectural purposes. + +At the time of Archbishop de Gray, the old and somewhat vague +jurisdictions in and about Ripon had become more distinct. The parish +was a Peculiar,[15] and as such was exempt from the authority of the +Archdeacon of Richmond, either by tradition from the days when the +church was a monastery, or because of the presence here of the +Archbishops. Over this Peculiar (the laity included) the Chapter +exercised the spiritual jurisdiction of an archdeacon's court, assisted +by the Rural Dean of Ripon, who sat as 'Dean of Christianity.' This +'Court Christian' dealt with testamentary and matrimonial cases, cases +of defamation, immorality, neglect of religious duties, etc. Accused +persons cleared themselves by compurgation, or underwent penalties +(commutable, however), such as being beaten, walking barefoot in the +processions, suspension _ab ingressu ecclesiæ_, or excommunication.[16] +Lesser offences were dealt with by an archbishop's officer called +_penitentiarius_, who heard confessions and enjoined penances. The +Archbishop was Ordinary of the Peculiar. He held visitations in the +Chapter-house, and could order repairs of buildings, make statutes (in +consultation with the Chapter) for the College, and sequestrate its +revenues. He also exercised authority over offending Canons and over the +inferior clergy of the staff, though the correction of these belonged +primarily to the Chapter and especially to the Canon of Stanwick. + + [Illustration: MEDIÆVAL SEALS. + 1. Seal of the Mediæval Chapter. + 2. Capitular Seal "ad causas." + 3. Common Seal of the Vicars.] + +For purposes of secular jurisdiction Ripon, with the lands round it, was +a Liberty, exempt, that is, from the authority of the Sheriff. The +Liberty was almost co-extensive with the Peculiar. Within it were two +secular jurisdictions, that of the Archbishop as lord of the manor, and +that of the Chapter, which embraced the southern half of the town and +many country districts, and which may have originated either with +Ealdred's presumable gifts of land out of the manor to form prebends, or +(as the charters pretend) from a grant of Athelstan, or perhaps from an +original independence enjoyed by the church as a monastery. The Chapter +claimed within their sphere the rights attributed to Athelstan's grant, +and also assize of bread, ale, weights and measures; dues of fairs and +markets; certain feudal dues; power over masterless goods, and to deal +with cases of rent, wrongful detention of land, and theft; _cognitio de +falso judicio_; execution of royal writs; 'sheriff-tourn'; coroners of +their own; in fact the powers of a sheriff and of the justices-in-eyre, +with a prison and the right of gaol-delivery, and even of inflicting +capital punishment. In cases of homicide, however, a king's justice must +sit as assessor. For civil suits there was a provision against 'wager of +battle,' and the accused again cleared themselves by compurgation. +Archbishop de Gray claimed similar privileges, but wished to exercise +them over the whole Liberty, on the ground that the church and its +appurtenances were part of his manor (as indeed they very possibly were, +originally). Unlike Archbishop Gerard, who had supported the church's +privilege against the sheriff, de Gray actually joined the sheriff in +invading it. In 1228 the case came before the king's justices in the +Chapter-house at Ripon, and the decision was for the Chapter. Thus the +division of jurisdictions received from the State an undoubted sanction. +Within his sphere the Archbishop appointed his own justices, but on +arriving at the limits of that sphere, the king's justices sat with them +there on the first day, and were afterwards admitted to sit with them in +the town. The Archbishops claimed also that their commissioners should +administer the oath of obedience at the mile-limit to those who sought +sanctuary. The Archbishops are also said to have had a 'military court,' +probably a feudal institution. + +The memory of de Gray was perhaps held in scant respect at Ripon. He is +accused by Matthew Paris of having refused to distribute his corn during +a famine, and it was through the erection of Bishopthorpe Palace by him +that Ripon ceased to be a favourite provincial residence of the +Archbishops. Nevertheless they still frequently visited the town, both +for sport and duty. They had a park "six miles in compass," and the +fishing in the Ure. The existence, moreover, of a prison here for +criminous clerks made the minster a convenient place for the public +degradations which the Archbishop was obliged to hold from time to time. +On these occasions the offending clerks were brought across to the +church, where the Archbishop in full pontificals would hear their avowal +of guilt in the nave, and then solemnly divest them of their robes and +of their office at the west door. + +In 1270 came the first echo from the outside world since the reign of +Stephen. Prince Edward was setting out on a crusade, and Archbishop +Giffard was compelled to exact from the Chapter a twentieth of their +temporalities. The town had now attained to some importance, and sent +two members to the Model Parliament of 1295. + +As yet the minster of Archbishop Roger had suffered no change in its +main fabric save the rebuilding of the west front, but an alteration was +now to be made at the other extremity also, and the eastern portion of +the choir was rebuilt with all the elaboration of the Decorated style. +Of this work the greater part was probably effected under =Archbishop +John Romanus= (1286-1296). + +In 1293 the almost cathedral rank of the church was marked by the +consecration within its walls of a bishop (of Galloway). It was, as has +been said, the parish church of the huge parish of Ripon. Yet the town +itself possessed at an early period a separate parish church of +Allhallows, a memory of which survives in 'Allhallowgate.'[17] There was +also an old chapel of the Virgin called the 'Lady-kirk,' in +'Stammergate,' and there were chapels at the two hospitals and the +palace. But there were at first few if any places of worship in the +surrounding country, and the most remote of the parishioners had been +obliged to repair Ripon. This state of things led to the erection of +district chapels by the larger landholders under the sanction of the +Chapter, as early as the twelfth century, and of these chapels there +were eventually at least sixteen. + +The parishioners, however, still assembled at Ripon on certain feasts, +notably Christmas, Good Friday, Easter, Ascension, Whitsuntide, and the +feasts of St. Wilfrid's death (October 12th) and translation (April +24th), to which was added later a feast of his nativity, observed on the +Sunday after Lammas Day, and in the parish of Ripon only.[18] On St. +Wilfrid's feasts the privilege of sanctuary was extended beyond the +mile-limit to all who visited the mother-church, and the penalty for +molestation without the limit was £6. On Easter Day all the parishioners +received the Communion in the minster,[19] and on that day, on Christmas +Day, and on the feast of St. Wilfrid's nativity, the district chaplains +attended in their copes. Very picturesque, too, must have been the +miracle-plays at Easter, Christmas, and Epiphany; the great fairs; the +solemn processions, especially at Rogation-tide, when the relics of the +Saint were borne in state by representatives of the greater tenants of +the church, and attended by the sanctuary-men carrying staves with +banners. It is probable that once a year (perhaps at Whitsuntide) the +church was visited by clergy and laity from the whole of that division +of the diocese to which Ripon was the mother-church. Such annual +visitations were the especial privilege of mother-churches, and were a +great source of profit. + +Underneath all this pageantry, however, there was much that was +unsatisfactory in the internal affairs of the college. In the thirteenth +century even more than afterwards, the great difficulty in the working +of secular colleges was non-residence. The Canons were often pluralists, +or foreigners appointed under pressure from the Pope or the king, who +provided in this way for prominent civil servants. A canon would often +leave his prebend in the spiritual charge of a vicar engaged by the +year, or under the administration of a proctor, or would even farm it +out--sometimes to a layman. Sometimes a canon was suspected of being a +layman himself, or a married man. The proctors or lessees dismissed or +appointed vicars at their pleasure. The prebendal houses fell into +disrepair, and in some cases a plot had been assigned, but no house had +been built. Some canons at this period resigned their stalls after an +extremely short tenure, or changed from one stall to another. + +=Archbishop Thomas de Corbridge= (1299-1303) addressed himself to the +reform of these evils. He ordered the Canons to look to their prebendal +houses. He tried to control their acceptance of benefices in plurality. +He forbade them to farm their prebends to any but brother-canons except +with his licence. It was he who gave the prebends their territorial +names. Most important of all, he decreed in 1303 that the cure of souls +in each prebend was to be entrusted to a vicar-perpetual. The collegiate +system was indeed breaking down, and the Vicars henceforth were almost +as important a body as the Canons, whom they relieved of all +responsibility for the parochial work and the performance of the +services. Except the Vicar of Stanwick, they all lived at Ripon, and in +1304 one Nicholas de Bondgate provided them with a common residence, +which became known as the Bedern[20] (whence 'Bedern Bank'). The office +of _penitentiarius_ or of rural dean was often held by one of them. +Besides the seven Canons and the six Vicars in Ripon, there were three +deacons, three sub-deacons, six thuriblers, and six choristers, and the +full officiating staff thus amounted to thirty-one, exclusive of the +chantry priests, of whom, however, there were as yet but few. + +The successor of Archbishop de Corbridge was an ex-Canon of Ripon, +=William Greenfield= (=Archbishop= 1304-1315). He rebuilt the chapel of the +Palace and founded a chantry in it. It was at Ripon that he put forth, +with additions of his own, certain rules against clerical abuses which +he had borrowed from the diocese of Chichester. He found indeed much to +reform. Already the vicariate was becoming demoralized. Vicars and +inferior clergy were addicted to shows and sports, to dances and +stage-plays. A chaplain invented a gambling game called "ding-thrifts." +What wonder that the laity, then, begged at the altars under pretence of +being proctors of absent canons, or intruded into the choir during +service--a privilege reserved for the great? And another privilege of +rank had been invaded also, for the Archbishop had to direct that only +great persons and benefactors were to be buried within the minster. In +1310 two women fought in the graveyard so savagely that it had to be +reconsecrated. In his last year the Archbishop had to restrain the +proctors of absent canons from acting independently in the +administration of the prebends, and from exercising capitular authority. + +These internal difficulties, however, were presently forgotten in a new +danger from without. Already, in 1298, Archbishop de Newark had called +upon the Chapter to assist in providing cavalry for Edward I.'s campaign +against John Balliol, King of Scots. The King himself is said to have +visited the town in 1300. In 1315 the Chapter had sent a representative +to a council held by Archbishop Greenfield at Doncaster to consider the +defence of the realm. Since Bannockburn the Scots had been raiding the +northern counties, and in 1316 Edward II. ordered Ripon to provide +maintenance for Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, who was to pass +through on his way to check the raids. In March 1318 the town sent a +contingent to the King's forces, and the money, together with a banner +of St. Wilfrid, was provided by =Archbishop William de Melton= +(1317-1340). In May of the same year the Scots descended upon Ripon +itself. They might have spared the place, for in 1297 it had been the +temporary home of the mother of Robert Bruce, now King of Scotland, but +no consideration was shown. As there were no town walls, the inhabitants +fled to the minster and fortified it. For three days their homes were +given over to plunder, and the enemy demanded one thousand marks as the +price of a promise not to burn the town altogether. Even the Archbishop +urged the townsmen to pay this blackmail lest further damage should be +done, but such a sum could not be raised in a moment, and during either +this or a subsequent visit the Scots did much damage to the church. The +prebends suffered to the extent of over 150 marks, and the hospitals +were much crippled. Nor was any satisfaction to be had, save by solemnly +excommunicating the enemy on Sundays and festivals. It was probably in +consequence of the havoc wrought that in 1322 Parliament, which had been +summoned to meet at Ripon, met at York instead. + +Thrice again after 1318 were forces levied in the Liberty against the +Scots--in 1327, in 1333, and in 1342, when Edward III. even offered +pardon to the sanctuary-men if they would serve. + +Meanwhile Archbishop de Melton had been promoting the repair of the +minster, a task which included probably the renewal of the spires, the +roof, the stained glass, and the woodwork. In 1331-2 he issued some +important statutes for the College. Hitherto each Canon (except the +Canon of Stanwick) had received an annual dividend out of the Common +Fund. Of this fund, a large portion which had always gone to furnish +these dividends (or a part of them) was now appropriated exclusively to +canons willing to reside. Thus a premium was put upon residence, which +was fixed at twelve weeks in the year (not necessarily continuous), and +a distinction was admitted between resident and non-resident canons. +Again, the Common Fund was now to be charged with the salaries of the +Vicars, who had hitherto been precariously paid by the Canons their +masters. + +=Archbishop John de Thoresby= (1352-1373) added to the prebend of Studley +the two districts of Dacre and Bewerley, and it was probably about this +time that the Lady-chapel (now the Library) was built. In 1375 some part +of the church was burnt, and in 1396-7 the central spire seems to have +been rebuilt. The town had now recovered its prosperity, for in 1405 it +became the residence of the Court, when King Henry IV. was driven from +Westminster by a plague. The next reign is marked by an improvement in +the status of the Vicars. They had been living dispersed over the +town,--indeed, their common residence or Bedern is said to have been +destroyed by the Scots. + +In 1415, therefore, =Archbishop Henry Bowet= (1407-1423), having obtained +from Henry V. a charter with a dispensation of the Statute of Mortmain, +gave a site out of his manor for a new Bedern; and the vicars +themselves, who at this period are commended by both the Archbishop and +the King, were at the same time formed into a corporate body having a +common seal, and were allowed to elect from their number a Provost. +Under this Archbishop there were several instances of canons exchanging +their stalls for other benefices. The discipline of the staff seems to +have become exceedingly lax by 1439. The church music was neglected. +The Mass of Our Lady was not said regularly in the Lady-chapel. The +inferior clergy did not study for their examinations, and wore daggers +in the Choir. They and the vicars frequented taverns, walked about the +nave during service, and absented themselves without leave. The Canons +did not attend church in their habits, and the clergy generally indulged +in field sports. + +=Archbishop John Kemp= (1426-1452) did what he could to reform these +abuses, and effected some improvement (the nature of which is not clear) +in the status of the Vicars, who had been badly treated by the Chapter +in financial matters. Later in this century a chantry chaplain is found +engaging in dishonest trade; priests fight; laymen assault one another +in the minster during service. But mediæval morality in general must not +be condemned, of course, for a few recorded crimes. + +About 1450 the south-east corner of the central tower gave way, and so +unsafe was the church that service had to be held in the Lady-kirk. In +consequence of this disaster the Canons were obliged to rebuild not only +the south and east sides of the tower, but also the east side of the +south transept, and eventually part of the south side of the Choir; and +it is evident that they would have rebuilt the two remaining sides of +the tower, had they not been prevented by the Dissolution. The present +rood screen and canopied stalls were put in toward the close of the +fifteenth century. In 1502 the Lady-kirk (in which a chantry had been +founded in 1392) was handed over by the Chapter to Archbishop Savage, +who in turn transferred it to Fountains Abbey. Abbot Huby, intending to +make it a colony of Cistercians, rebuilt the east end of it, and +enclosed part of its graveyard with a fine stone wall having a +strongly-marked base. Of this wall a great part remains in St. +Mary-gate. A large doorway in it has been built up. The Lady-kirk itself +has vanished long ago. + +At this time was begun the greatest architectural enterprise that had +been undertaken at Ripon since the twelfth century, namely, the +rebuilding of the nave of the minster. The Transitional nave, it was +said, had become ruinous through age and storms, but the real motive for +its destruction was probably an ambition to enlarge the building. The +enlargement of aisleless churches was usually begun by the addition of a +single aisle, and that on the north side (since the south was usually +the side of the graveyard); but at Ripon the south aisle was built +first, perhaps because it was always intended that there should be two +aisles--an arrangement which there were no cloisters here to prevent. +The work was begun in 1502 or 1503. Delayed by a plague in 1506, it was +almost complete, as Leland's _Itinerary_ shows,[21] when he visited the +town about 1538, but the aisles had not yet been vaulted when the +Dissolution came, and had wooden roofs until our own time. Irreparable +as is the loss of Archbishop Roger's nave, its successor must surely be +placed among the great naves of the Perpendicular period--and it is the +latest of them. The work was furthered by =Archbishop Savage= (1501-1507) +and by =Cardinal Archbishop Bainbridge= (1508-1514), and two canons must +especially be mentioned in connection with it, Andrew Newman, appointed +Master of the Fabric in 1502, and =Marmaduke Bradley=, who was paymaster, +and who was connected with the repairs after the failure of the central +tower, and gave up to the fabric a large portion of his fees for +residence. The last work done before the Reformation was probably the +rebuilding of the three westernmost bays on the south side of the choir, +which had been weakened doubtless by the accident to the central tower. + +By this time the church contained nine chantries, namely, those of St. +Andrew (founded 1234); of the Holy Trinity _supra summum altare_ (1345); +of St. John the Evangelist and St. John the Baptist (1364); of St. James +(1407-8); of Our Lady 'in the Church' (1408); of St. Thomas of +Canterbury (1418); of the Holy Trinity _subtus altare_ (1466); of Our +Lady 'in the Lady-loft'; and of St. Wilfrid (? 1420). In some of these, +other chantries had been merged. There were also four or five chantries +in various chapels in the parish. The chantry-chaplains were not +strictly on the staff, but helped on Sundays and festivals. As their +chantries did not give them sufficient occupation, they sometimes held +in addition such offices as that of Proctor of an absent canon, Curator +of the Fabric, Sub-Precentor, Sub-Treasurer, or Chamberlain, the holder +of this post being the chief financial officer of the community. + +On the eve of the Reformation the discipline of the staff was again very +unsatisfactory, chiefly through the influence of the Treasurer, Canon +Christopher Dragley, who employed the vestry clerks on his private +business, disposed of chantries prematurely, and encouraged the Vicars, +who were now living dispersed, to be insubordinate. It was the custom +for choir and clergy to adjourn after Prime to the Chapter-house, where +the martyrology for the day was read and notices were given out. Here, +too, once a week sat the Chapter Court. But Dragley was able to hinder +all this by keeping the door locked. From 1533 to 1539 he was Treasurer, +Canon Residentiary, and President of the Chapter, and the general laxity +was largely due to this concentration of authority in the hands of one +bad man through non-residence. The case of Dragley drew several decrees +from =Archbishop Edward Lee= (1531-1544):--that no vicar should be +appointed without the consent of a majority in Chapter; that the Chapter +seal must be kept by three people; that one canon must no longer form a +quorum (as hitherto) in the Chapter Court, and as a question had arisen +whether the powers of the Chapter were not entirely vested in the +canons-resident,[22] it was laid down that the latter were indeed +competent to dispose of certain chantries and other offices, and to +exercise the Chapter's spiritual jurisdiction, but that in most other +matters the whole body must be consulted. As most of them were always +absent, this means, perhaps, that they were represented in Chapter by +their proctors. There is an instance in 1546 of the Vicars, chantry +priests, and deacons being allowed to take part in a Chapter meeting. + +An attack on relics was begun in 1538, and it was probably about this +date that the shrine of St. Wilfrid was destroyed. In 1539 came the +suppression of Fountains Abbey, the abbot who surrendered it being no +other than Marmaduke Bradley. He had been Abbot since 1536, holding his +canonry at Ripon at the same time, and after the suppression of the +Abbey, he became once more a power at Ripon. As sole residentiary in +1544, 1545, and 1546, he appears to have used his influence well, and +played a prominent part in the last architectural operations before the +Dissolution. The old system of sanctuary, suited only to times when the +State was weak, seems to have died out about this period. In 1545 came +an Act for the dissolution of chantries and hospitals. As 'Supreme Head +of the Church' Henry VIII. renewed the visitatorial authority of the +Archbishops, and both he and Edward VI. confirmed the ecclesiastical +jurisdiction of the Chapter. But the end was imminent. In 1547 the +College was dissolved,[23] and its revenues were annexed to the Duchy of +Lancaster. There had been attached to the church for centuries a =Grammar +School=, for which the Chapter had claimed a monopoly of education within +the Parish and Liberty, forbidding in 1468 the establishment of any +other school without their special licence. This ancient seminary was +apparently dissolved, and a new grammar school independent of the church +was founded by Edward VI., whose benefaction was completed by Mary, the +endowment being provided from the revenues of four of the late +chantries. There had also been a Song-school, but it was perhaps merely +a room in which boys of the Grammar School were trained to be +choristers. Out of the confiscated revenues one or more clergy were paid +to minister to the parish, but under Mary the old state of things was in +some measure brought back. There was once more a Chamberlain, whose +accounts show much the same items as do those of his mediæval +predecessors, and the old religion was restored; indeed, there were six +altars in the church. + +Under Elizabeth there was a return to the arrangement of Edward, the +clergy (now as many as five in number) being denominated vicars. +Archbishop Sandys (1577-1588), Lord Burleigh, Richard Hooker, Moses +Fowler (afterwards the first Dean), and others tried to bring about the +establishment of a theological college in the Bedern, and an increase of +the endowments of the church, but in vain. The town must have lost all +favour in 1569, by taking part in the Rising in the North. It was +visited by the rebel earls of Northumberland and Westmorland, many of +the townsmen and local gentry joining them, and for the last time the +minster witnessed the celebration of the Mass. On the collapse of the +rebellion, a number of those who had taken up arms were hanged at Ripon +in sight of their homes, and the church suffered much damage from the +Queen's soldiery, who stripped the lead from the roof. Like the +Pilgrimage of Grace in 1536, this Rising was a protest against the +Reformation, and the records of Archbishop Young (1561-1568), and of the +Court of High Commission (1580), show that the people of Ripon still +clung to the old religion. The pillage of Henry and Edward had no doubt +destroyed most of the ornaments of the church, but some still remained +or had been renewed under Mary, and the clergy displayed a marked +reluctance in removing them; 'Images,' even when removed, were concealed +in private houses. One vicar named Thomas Blackburne had continued the +old practice of holding churchings in the Lady-chapel, and was ordered +publicly to renounce this error, as well as that of having left "that +olde, abhominable, and supersticious vawte called the Wilfride's +nedle[24] and the alter therein" undefaced. One townsman is punished for +having taken part in the Mass during the late Rising. The clergy +generally were unclerical in dress and lax in their performance of the +reformed services, which the parishioners showed a corresponding +unwillingness to attend, while the old fasts and festivals were not +wholly given up. + +[Illustration: RIPON MINSTER ANTERIOR TO 1660. + +_Note_.--This representation much resembles that engraved on the old +communion plate. As a view of Ripon Minster, it affords an instance of +the inaccuracy of old architectural drawings; but it shows, at any rate, +the effect of the spires.] + +=The Chapter revived.=--On the accession of =James I.= a second futile +attempt was made to obtain for Ripon a theological college.[25] The +influence, however, of the queen, =Anne of Denmark=, gained from the king +a greater boon, and in 1604 he re-established the Chapter. Under the new +constitution there were six prebendaries, and for the first time a Dean. +Much of the old endowments was restored, but the new stalls could not be +identified with the old territorial prebends, and were therefore +distinguished as 'the first stall,' 'the second stall,' and so on. After +1607 the Prebendaries were empowered to elect a Sub-Dean. The cure of +souls was discharged by two vicars, and the choir was composed of six +lay-clerks and six choristers. The parish remained a Peculiar. The +spiritual jurisdiction of the Chapter and the Archbishop had been +somewhat restricted by the Reformation, and the secular jurisdiction of +the Liberty--especially in criminal cases--had been partly transferred +to the king's itinerant justices. The Archbishop, however, still +retained some criminal jurisdiction and also his 'Court Military,' +which, strange to say, came to hear civil cases. During the latter half +of the fifteenth century the secular cases heard by the Chapter had been +chiefly cases of debt, and under the new constitution they were +authorized to hold a court, which was called the Canon Fee Court, for +cases of debt and other civil cases. Some obscurity exists as to the +mediæval relation of the Archbishop to the town. There was, of course, a +town council, and its president the Wakeman[26] (an official peculiar to +Ripon) had charge of what would now be called the town police. The +ancient town bridges (of which only one remains) were under the charge +of the Archbishop. During the sixteenth century the borough constitution +had been the subject of disputes, in which Cardinal Wolsey had been +concerned in 1517 and Archbishop Hutton in 1598. James I. therefore now +granted a new Charter, under which the Wakeman became a Mayor; and +henceforth the borough had also an independent court of its own. The +dissolution of the Chapter in 1547, coming as it did upon the decay of +the manufacture of woollen cloth, had been a great blow to the +prosperity of the inhabitants,[27] and it was no wonder that when James +visited the town in 1617 he received an ovation. + +In 1625 a plague, such as had not occurred here since 1546, prevented +the country folk from approaching the minster, and obliged them to have +their children baptized in the fields. Several changes in the +surroundings of the church took place at this time. The Bedern, with its +quadrangle, hall, and chapel, had been demolished by 1625, in which year +the Deanery was erected, perhaps upon its site. Of the old prebendal +houses some had been sold, or let; others, perhaps, were occupied by the +Prebendaries of the new foundation. In 1629 the ancient Palace, which +stood to the north of the minster and west of the Deanery, was turned +into a poor-house. The town (and doubtless the minster) was visited in +1633 by Charles I. on his way to his coronation at Edinburgh.[28] A few +years later he was to pass through again, a captive on his way to Holmby +House. + +Ripon had escaped the Wars of the Roses, but it was not unscathed by the +Great Rebellion, for in 1643 it was occupied by Sir Thomas Mauleverer, a +Parliamentary officer, whose soldiery broke into the minster and +shattered the magnificent glass in the great east window, and doubtless +much other glass besides. At the end of the war the manorial rights were +sold to Lord Fairfax, and the Chapter was again dissolved, "one who +called himself Dr. Richardson" being "appointed to preach in the minster +by the Parliament, tho' in all probability he was never in any Orders, +Presbyterian or Episcopal."[29] The Chapter was revived at the +Restoration, but all its members were new save one. + +In the same year (1660) the central spire, which had been injured by +lightning in 1593, fell through the roof, wrecking many of the beautiful +canopies of the stalls. The damage to the choir and other parts of the +church, estimated at £6000, was repaired with money raised under a brief +from Charles II., but the spire was never rebuilt, and in 1664, to avoid +any further catastrophe, the western spires, though sound, were +deliberately removed.[30] The place of the spires was ill supplied by +the erection of battlements and pinnacles, which were renewed in 1797. + +It was perhaps at this period that the west gate of the precincts was +pulled down--a mediæval structure which contained at least seven rooms, +and which stood at the bottom of Kirkgate. The graveyard in the middle +ages contained a cross, at which a service was held on Palm Sunday; +also, possibly, a mortuary chapel and a well associated with St. +Wilfrid--(not, of course, the St. Wilfrid's well which now fills the +public baths). Of these things there is now not a trace, save, perhaps, +the stump of the cross, near the south wall of the nave. Nor are there +any undoubted remains of the mediæval wall which enclosed the precincts, +except the fragment with an archway in it, which still forms the +southern entrance. The mediæval prisons, which belonged respectively to +the Archbishop and the Chapter, have long vanished, as has also that +which appertained to the Court of Canon Fee, but there is a Liberty +prison of some age in 'Stammergate.' Most of the archiepiscopal palace +had disappeared by 1830, but there was still a portion which was used as +the court-house of the Liberty. In that year this was pulled down, and +the present court-house was built upon the site. A memory of the Palace +survives in 'Hall Yard,' and there still remains what is, perhaps, a +remnant of the actual fabric, in the shape of an old cottage with an +external staircase, which stands behind the wall to the west of the +public garden that fronts the north side of the church. In the +above-mentioned wall is an Early English doorway, with a dripstone +adorned with the nailhead moulding. The door has a flat-arched wooden +frame, the spandrels of which are carved with _fleurs-de-lys_, while the +wooden tympanum above has Perpendicular panelling. This doorway is not, +perhaps, a relic of the Palace. It is not in its original position, and +indeed is said to have come originally from St. Mary Magdalene's +Hospital. Several of the old houses adjoining the Cathedral on the south +side, and along St. Agnes-gate, may possibly have been inhabited by the +Prebendaries of the Second Collegiate foundation, but the stone-roofed +house adjoining Bondgate Green Bridge is the only one in Ripon which can +be identified with a mediæval prebend--that of Thorp, and even here the +existing fabric can scarcely be pre-Reformation. St. John's +Hospital,[31] whose inmates for several centuries have been women, was +unfortunately rebuilt in 1869, but the modern chapel (served by one of +the cathedral clergy) retains a bell of 1663. The old Grammar +School,[32] which stood at the foot of the steps from St. Agnes-gate to +the Minster, has been pulled down since 1872. + +Meanwhile the Minster itself had been undergoing restoration--in 1829 +and the following years at the hands of Blore, when upwards of £3000 +were spent, and from 1862 to 1870 at the hands of Sir G. Gilbert Scott, +and at a cost of about £30,000. + +From the eighth century up to 1836 Ripon had been in the diocese of +York. In that year was created the modern diocese of Ripon, and the +church thus attained to cathedral rank. It had, however, always had some +pretension to that rank, not merely as a mother-church but because (up +to 1836) the Archbishops had their throne in the choir; indeed, it is +styled a cathedral in documents of 1537 and 1546. The diocese is +composed of parts of Yorkshire taken from the sees of York and Chester, +and included Wakefield, Leeds, Bradford, Halifax and Huddersfield, until +in 1888 a portion including Halifax and Huddersfield was taken away to +form part of a new diocese of Wakefield. There are three archdeaconries: +those of Richmond, Ripon, and Craven. The first is a survival, in a +diminished form, of the ancient archdeaconry of the same name; the +others are modern; the last is the only one which is held without a +canonry. In accordance with the Act of 1840, the Sub-Deanery has been +suppressed, the Prebendaries have been reduced to four, and their style +has been changed to that of Canons. In 1841, provision was made for the +appointment of Canons honorary. There is also a precentor, and three +other clergy who act as minor canons, and assist him in discharging the +cure of souls--for though the huge mediæval parish has been gradually +divided into many, the greater portion of the city itself is still +served from the cathedral church. The choir is composed of six +lay-clerks and twelve choristers. There was as late as 1890 a +Choir-school, but most of the present choristers come from Jepson's +Hospital--a charity which was founded in 1672, in Water Skellgate, and +the old buildings of which were pulled down in 1878. + +There are still some relics of the ancient jurisdictions of the Chapter +and the Archbishop. Though the secular jurisdiction has been gradually +reduced by legislation to the scope of Quarter and Petty Sessions, the +Liberty has Quarter Sessions of its own, and its justices are still +nominated by the Archbishop, while his Court Military survived at any +rate into the nineteenth century. A copyhold court, called the Canon Fee +Court, is also still held by the Chapter. As regards ecclesiastical +jurisdiction, the mediæval right of the Chapter to hear testamentary and +matrimonial cases (which were not taken away from the ecclesiastical +courts till 1857) probably survived at least until the abolition of the +Peculiar. Peculiars, with but one or two exceptions, had ceased to exist +by 1850, and Ripon, once exempt from archidiaconal authority, is now +itself an archdeaconry. The Bishop of Ripon has, of course, his +Consistory court, which is held at the Cathedral. + +In ending this account of one of the most venerable of English churches, +it is worth while to remark that, of the four mother-churches of the old +diocese of York, Ripon is the only one besides York Cathedral itself +which still has a collegiate foundation. + + [Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] The archbishopric of York arose out of the bishopric of Northumbria +in the eighth century. + +[2] The name in this form is modern. In common speech the street is +always 'Stammergate,' which is probably a corruption of 'Stanbriggate.' +The latter is the original name of the street, and appears frequently in +mediæval records. It has reference to a stone bridge over a brook where +the gas-works now are. The continuation of this street toward the +Cathedral is called St. Mary-gate, but this name again seems to be +modern, and to have arisen from a notion that 'St. Mary-gate' is the +origin of the word 'Stammergate'--a notion which would be rendered more +plausible by the fact that this was the situation of the Lady-kirk. + +[3] The question whether his monastery church stood over the Saxon crypt +which exists below the present Cathedral is reserved for Chap. III. + +[4] For the place of Ripon in the theory of the direct connection of +Saxon architecture with the Comacine Guild of Italy, see _The Cathedral +Builders_, by Leader Scott, p. 139 _sqq._ + +[5] An MS. which has been thought to be identical with Wilfrid's gift +came into the market recently, and has passed to America. + +[6] The Saint's return after his long exile is still commemorated at +Ripon, early in August, on the first Saturday after Lammas Day, when a +man dressed as a Saxon bishop and riding a grey horse is escorted +through the streets. + +[7] This liturgical term sometimes refers to the _burial_ of a saint, +sometimes, as here, to the _death_. + +[8] There is also mention of an Abbot Tylberht, but he may be the same +as Tatberht. + +[9] _I.e._, 'Elves-how'--'the hill of fairies.' Coins of Aella and other +early kings have been found in the hill. + +[10] At a later period the Chapter claimed also that 'St. Wilfrid's men' +need not pay tolls when travelling on business through the realm, and on +one occasion they issued to a Ripon clerk a kind of passport. + +[11] Frisia's debt was remembered in the seventeenth century, when one +of the Canons of Antwerp wrote an account of Ripon monastery for his +countrymen. + +[12] Until Walbran drew attention to this passage, the rebuilding was +attributed to Thurstan. + +[13] Especially at St. Wilfrid's shrine. + +[14] It has been suggested that this was the iron which in Saxon times +had been used for the ordeal of fire. + +[15] A Peculiar is a district taken out of its geographical surroundings +for purposes of ecclesiastical jurisdiction (_Sir W. Anson_). + +[16] In later times (at any rate) the Archbishop apparently had a +spiritual court of his own. A Chapter minute of 1467 declares a certain +person accused of a spiritual offence to be "non de foro Capituli sed de +foro Archiepiscopi, unde litteræ correctionis emanârunt." + +[17] This church had disappeared, as Leland tells us, long before his +visit to Ripon, which took place about 1538. The dates of its erection +and demolition are both unknown. In the Chapter-house is preserved a key +which has been assigned to the fifteenth century, and which has been +thought to have belonged to Allhallows, but it is thought that the +church disappeared at an early date. + +[18] This Sunday is still called Wilfrid Sunday at Ripon. The Saturday +preceding it is the day on which the town commemorates the Saint's +return from his first appeal to Rome. The season is regarded as a +holiday, and another relic of the nativity festival survives in the fair +held on the Thursday after August 2nd. + +[19] The Easter Communion has survived till our own day. Within living +memory, and at a period when Early Celebrations were not usual, it was +celebrated at 7 A.M., and people drove in from the outlying places. + +[20] This word is probably connected with the Anglo-Saxon 'béd,' a +prayer (whence 'bedesmen'), and means a 'house of prayer.' In one +passage of the records it is rendered in Latin by _proseucha_. + +[21] It was Walbran, again, who drew attention to Leland's phraseology +here. + +[22] The Canon of Stanwick was always in Ripon, but was not considered +technically a canon-resident. Perhaps he was not entitled to the special +fees for residence. He had, however, full capitular rights. These had +been denied to him by Dragley, but were now restored by the Archbishop. + +[23] If the Ripon hospitals were dissolved they were re-established, for +they are still fulfilling their purpose. + +[24] _I.e._, the Saxon crypt. + +[25] The project is being realized in our own day. + +[26] _I.e._, the watchman, or setter of the watch. The town motto is, +"Except the Lord keep the city, the _Wakeman_ waketh in vain." After +1598 a horn was blown every evening to denote the setting of the watch. +If any house was robbed between horn-blowing and sunrise, compensation +could be claimed from the town. To support this system a small tax was +levied on each house-door, and if a house had two doors it paid more, as +being more liable to be robbed. A relic of the system still survives. +Every night a horn is blown thrice before the Mayor's door at 9 P.M. and +thrice at the Market Cross afterwards. The ancient horn of the Wakeman +(which appears on the city arms) is still worn by the Sergeant-at-mace +in civic processions. + +[27] Since then, however, another industry had arisen--the manufacture +of spurs, for which Ripon became famous, and James was presented with a +pair. This industry did not die out till the end of the last century, +and a spur is still the crest of the city. The manufacture of +saddle-trees, which flourished here in the sixteenth century, is still +carried on. + +[28] In 1640 he was at war with the Scots for their opposition to +episcopacy, and it was at Ripon that the disgraceful negotiations were +begun, by which a sum of £850 a day was to be paid to maintain their +invading army, pending a more permanent settlement. The house in which +the 'Treaty of Ripon' was negotiated stood near Ailcy Hill, and +disappeared about the beginning of the century. Charles is said to have +visited the town four times altogether. + +[29] Walker's "Sufferings of the Clergy," quoted in _Surtees Soc._, Vol. +78. There is a tablet to Richardson's wife in the south Choir-aisle. + +[30] The following is probably the true version of a story that is told +in connection with their demolition. One of the workmen had been hoisted +by means of a pulley, and was being held aloft by his comrades below, +when he spied some coursing in progress on Bondgate Green. Seeing the +hare well away and the dogs straining in the leash, he shouted "Let go!" +And his comrades below did. + +[31] For the other hospitals, the 'Thorp' house, and other old buildings +still standing, see Chap. IV. + +[32] Ripon Grammar School has produced an Archbishop of York, Matthew +Hutton (one of the two of that name who held the office from 1595 to +1606 and from 1749 to 1757 respectively: the latter Hutton became +Archbishop of Canterbury); also Beilby Porteous, Bishop of London +(1776-1787), and Dr. William Stubbs, late Bishop of Oxford. + + + + + [Illustration: THE WEST DOORWAYS.] + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE EXTERIOR. + + +Built upon the verge of a slope, along whose base the Skell hurries +eastwards under many bridges to join the Ure among the meadows a +half-mile below the town, Ripon Cathedral stands unusually well.[33] Of +general views the two best, perhaps, are to be had from the wooden +bridge by Bondgate Green, and from the south-east gate of the graveyard. +Unfortunately lack of funds prevented Sir Gilbert Scott from raising the +roofs of nave and transept to their original pitch; but what most +injures the general effect is the lowness of the central tower, which is +no higher than those at the west end. This fault, however, must have +been far less noticeable when all three towers were crowned with lofty +spires. And, even as it stands, the exterior of Ripon is dignified and +not unworthy of its commanding site. The size of the clearstorey +windows, the severity of the transept, the obvious variety of style and +date throughout the building--these are the features that strike the +observer most forcibly. + +Several kinds of material have been employed. Up to almost the end of +the thirteenth century the builders used a coarse gritstone such as is +found five miles to the south-west at Brimham Rocks, and also a finer +gritstone or sandstone that may have come from Hackfall. After that date +they built with magnesian limestone, brought partly, perhaps, from near +York, but chiefly, it would seem, from Quarry Moor, a mile south of the +city. At the last restoration the older parts were repaired with +Hackfall stone, and the later parts with limestone from Quarry Moor and +Monkton Moor, and so extensive were the repairs needed on the exterior, +that the church somewhat belies, by its appearance, its real antiquity. + +The most picturesque approach is from High St. Agnes-gate by a flight of +steps, which ascend through an old arch to an avenue of limes that leads +up to the south door; but it is better, perhaps, that the survey should +begin at the west end. + +=The West Front= was doubtless the object of two indulgences, issued +respectively by Archbishop de Gray in 1233 and by Pope Alexander IV. in +1258, and was therefore erected just before or during the struggle +between Henry III. and Simon de Montfort, in the best period of the +Early English style. + +The height of the gable is said to be 103 feet, and that of the towers +110 feet, and the front is divided by the string-courses into four +stages. In the central compartment the lowest stage is approached by +three steps, and is filled by three doorways, set in a thickening of the +wall, and surmounted by gables finished with crosses. The central +entrance, higher, more widely splayed, and more deeply recessed than the +others, has five orders and five triple shafts in the jamb, while they +have three orders and three shafts, the innermost of which is triple and +the others single. As usual in this style, the shafts are detached and +not worked on the stones of the jamb. The mouldings of the capitals are +carried through the jamb from end to end, and on the front of the piers +between the archways is a curious moulding which resembles an undercut +roll set up on end, and which has a capital as if it were a shaft. In +the arches the mouldings are chiefly rounds and hollows: many of the +former are filleted, and some of the latter are filled with the +dog-tooth (an ornament peculiar to this style), which is more profusely +employed in the central arch than in the others. The terminations of the +dripstones are foliated and stand out detached. The central gable is +adorned with a square panel of foliage, and either of the others with a +sunk foliated quatrefoil, and between the gables are spouts issuing from +the heads of animals. It is worthy of remark that all three doors open +into the nave; for as a rule when a church has three west doors, two of +them open into the aisles.[34] The wooden doors in these and all the +doorways of the church are of considerable age, and those in the central +archway here bear the date 1673 in nails. + +Above the doors is a tier of five lancet windows, and above these +another tier, also of five, which diminish in height toward the sides, +the last window at either end being, however, as high as the tier below. +These tiers occupy the whole width of the compartment. Above them, +again, is a group of three small lancets graduated to the gable and +placed very high, with a string-course below them. These serve to light +the space between the internal and external roofs. In all this work the +detail is of the very best: the various arches are richly moulded and +supported by clusters of engaged shafts, which in the two great tiers +are banded at about half their height, and the dog-tooth ornament is +everywhere employed profusely. The lower tier is the more elaborate--its +mouldings more numerous, its shafts more richly clustered, its capitals +covered with foliage; and between the second and third lancets from the +right there is a small niche with a toothed edge and the remains of a +figure. At either end of the two tiers an ornament not unlike the +ball-flower of the Decorated style is carried up the jamb, and a bold +corbel-table runs up the sides of the gable, under the apex of which +there is a trefoil panel, while the whole is crowned by an elaborate +cross. + + [Illustration: VIEW FROM THE NORTH-WEST.] + +In the towers the lowest of the four stages is relieved by a little +arcade of six trefoiled arches, with detached shafts, fluted capitals, +and dripstones not trefoiled and terminating in heads. Each of the three +upper stages is occupied by three tall lancets, of which that in the +centre, higher and broader than the others, is pierced and (except in +the belfry) glazed. In their enrichment these arcades resemble the +windows of the central compartment. The second stage is not quite so +high here in the towers as it is there, and the level of the +string-course above is consequently broken. The third stage, taller than +the second, reaches to the springing of the gable. The fourth, taller +than the third, rises somewhat above the gable cross, and the shafts of +the lancets are twice banded, while above are two circular panels, which +on the north tower are raised and contain quatrefoils, but on the south +tower are sunk and contain trefoils. On the other faces of these towers +the arches are not so richly moulded, and the shafts are single and also +detached, except in the uppermost stage of the north tower, where they +are engaged and filleted. As the second stage does not descend so low +upon the western face as upon the other faces, the string-course below +it, after passing round the corners of the façade, is stopped, and when +it is resumed it passes above the sill of the arcade, being carried +round the little plinths of the shafts. All the string-courses, it will +be noticed, are enriched with the nailhead moulding. The buttresses rise +to the parapets without diminishing in breadth or projection--an early +feature, and three large rolls or beads are worked upon their edge. +Those that flank the portal have each a large niche at the bottom, with +engaged shafts, and the head and dripstone trefoiled. At the corners of +the façade, where the staircases are, the buttresses are triple. The +original corbel-table, surmounted by a row of dog-tooth ornament, +remains at the top of the towers, but the battlements and pinnacles have +been put up since the removal of the spires in 1664, and were renewed in +1797. + +The bells, ten in number, are in the south tower. Of the mediæval peal, +which consisted of six bells, the largest, known as the _Klank Knoll_, +was made in 1379 at York, and perhaps hung in the north tower; while +some of the others seem to have been made in Ripon in 1391. They were +all recast in 1761 by Lester & Pack of London, after which there were +eight. Two of these (Nos. 4 and 7) were recast in 1866 by Warner of +London, and two new bells (Nos. 1 and 2), by Shaw of Bradford, have been +added since 1890. The ninth bell is rung every evening at nine for the +curfew. The mediæval clock, mentioned in 1379, has long vanished; +another was put up in 1723; the present clock (by Thwaites of +Clerkenwell) dates from 1808. + +The whole front has been much restored by Sir Gilbert Scott, especially +the doorways and the towers. The latter were badly cracked through +settlement (due partly to the fact that in either tower one of the sides +is older than the rest),[35] but, as Sir Gilbert himself declared, they +are once more strong enough to bear spires, and it is to be hoped that +the hint will some day be taken. The more the west front of Ripon is +studied, the more it becomes apparent how much thought has been expended +upon it. Yet as a work of art it is perplexing. To some it will appear +beautiful as a design; to others its excellence of detail will be its +only commendation, and they will complain that the tiers of windows are +wider than the gable, that there is a disproportion between the little +arcade in the lowest stage of the towers and the great lancets in the +upper stages, that the height of the latter makes the towers appear +top-heavy, that the whole façade lacks projection and depth of shade, +and that there is too much glass. Some dissatisfaction was felt, as the +Fabric Rolls indicate, in 1379, when masons were employed to divide each +of the large windows into two lights with a quatrefoil above.[36] The +mullions and quatrefoils remained till our own day, when they were +removed by Sir Gilbert Scott, whose action the present state of expert +opinion on restoration would severely condemn. + +=The Nave. North Side.=--By being rebuilt with the addition of aisles, the +nave became as wide as the west front. Its width is 87 feet internally +and nearly 100 feet externally, and it is the widest nave in England +after York, Winchester, Chichester, and St. Paul's. The date of the +rebuilding is indicated by a Chapter minute of 1502, which alludes to +the _onus canonicis modo impositum super reædificationem navis_. The +Fabric Rolls mention the purchase of stone in 1503, and the roofing of +some "new work" in 1505, while a will of 1508 requires the testator's +body to be buried in "the new work of the College Church." These are +doubtless references to the south side, which is evidently the older and +bears internally the arms of Archbishop Savage (1501-1507). Again, an +indulgence of 1512, by Archbishop Bainbridge (1508-1514), alluding to +the demolition of the old nave as then complete, suggests that the north +wall had been left standing till then, and the laying of the foundation +of the north aisle, which bears his arms, is mentioned in the Roll for +1512-13. It appears from the Rolls that the main roof was up by 1520-21. +Lastly, Leland's allusion to "the body of the Chirch of late dayes made +of a great Widnesse" shows that the main part of the work was finished +at any rate by about 1538.[37] + +The nave is divided--east of the towers--into six bays, of which the +easternmost is narrower than the rest, to answer to a fragment of the +old nave preserved within. The plinth is considerably higher than that +of the west front. + +On the north side, the six buttresses project 5 feet at the base and +rise to the parapet in two stages, which are crowned by gables. These +gables have their sides curved inwards and are adorned with crockets and +finials, the latter being attached to the front of the gable, while +grotesques project from the angles. The windows are of three lights, and +are rather acutely jointed and deeply set for such late work, and their +arches are well moulded, a broad hollow running up the sides. As is +often the case in late work, there are no sub-arches in the tracery, and +the mullions are carried up through the head. The easternmost of these +windows is of two lights, and has a transom in the tracery, and the +westernmost is shortened to allow of a doorway of four-centred form +beneath. Below the sills runs a string-course, which rises to pass over +the door. The parapet is battlemented, not for military purposes but for +ornament, and at intervals are the beginnings of panelled pinnacles, set +diagonally and partially embedded in the battlements. The clearstorey +has no pilasters or buttresses, but where it joins the west tower a +projecting strip of masonry may be seen half imbedded in the Early +English work and half in the Perpendicular. This is, without doubt, the +upper part of one of the buttresses of the old nave. + +The clearstorey windows are actually larger than those of the aisle +below, and are again rather acutely pointed for late work. They are of +five lights, and the two mullions in the middle are carried up through +the head, but a sub-arch comprises the two outer lights on either side. +The last window eastwards is of three lights, is shorter than the rest, +and has several transoms in the tracery. In the parapet, the coping is +not carried down the sides of the battlements as it is on the aisles, +and the rudimentary pinnacles spring from grotesque corbels at the +string-course, with a plain corbel at the side of each to carry the +water-spout. + +=The Central Tower. North and West Sides.=--The central tower of Ripon is +probably unique among towers in being divided vertically between two +different styles of architecture. Its north and west sides are +Archbishop Roger's work,[38] but the other sides are Perpendicular, +having been rebuilt after the collapse of the south-east angle. Seen +from the north-west, however, it presents much the same appearance now +as in the twelfth century, and either side displays a pair of +round-headed windows, with the weathering of the original roof rising +high between them and (on the west face) cutting off their corners. The +windows have a shaft in the jamb, and the abacus of the capitals is +continued round the tower as a string, but interrupted by the +buttresses and weatherings, as is also another string below the sills. +In the windows of the north side there is a space or tympanum over the +inner arch. Each corner of the tower was strengthened by a pair of flat +buttresses, with one shaft at the corner itself and another at the inner +side of either buttress, and with the shafts banded half way up and +again near the top. These buttresses are received in an overhanging +corbel-table, above which runs a hollow moulding, filled with dog-tooth +ornament of a large size and continued round the projections that serve +for gargoyles. The use of this Early English ornament in a scheme which +might otherwise be pure Norman affords a good instance of the +Transitional character of the work. The battlements are later. + +=The North Transept=, with the three adjacent bays of the choir, gives +some idea of the external appearance of Archbishop Roger's church.[39] +The date of the beginning of the work ascribed to him is placed within +his lifetime (1154-1181) by his own words quoted in Chapter I. The +transept is divided by the string-courses into four stages, and has a +very massive plinth which is lower than that of the nave, thus +expressing the slope of the ground. The west wall is shorter than the +east and has two bays only, but south of the second bay, and separated +from it by a flat pilaster, is a narrow space, along the top of which +are the remains of a cornice: the two bays proper are separated by a +recessed buttress of some projection. One round-headed window, divided +by a mullion, appears in the second stage; and in the fourth stage are +two plain, round-headed windows, not subdivided. The original +corbel-table remains above, but it is surmounted by a (probably) +fourteenth century battlemented parapet, which is returned over the +central buttress, forming a square turret, which has a (renewed) +gargoyle below it, and is pierced with a cross. The buttresses at the +north-west corner of the transept, where is a staircase, are clustered +and rise to the top of the wall, and like most Norman buttresses, and +some of Early English date (as in the west front), they do not diminish +as they ascend. The large buttress on the west side of this corner has +two carved stones built into it at the height of about eighteen feet +from the ground. They are covered with patterns resembling the knots so +often found on ancient crosses, and are of especial interest as being +possibly survivals of the church built by St. Wilfrid.[40] It is +noticeable that the first string-course is the only one which is not +carried round the buttresses at this corner. A recessed buttress of the +same type separates the end of the transept from that of an aisle which +is thrown out from its eastern side. + + [Illustration: DOORWAY, NORTH TRANSEPT.] + +The lowest stage of this north elevation is blank save for a rather +interesting doorway set in a thickening of the wall near the western +corner. In this doorway the innermost arch is of unusual form--a trefoil +resting on corbels--and its edges are left square and plain. Over it is +a semicircular arch of three orders with three detached shafts in either +jamb, and as usual throughout almost all Archbishop Roger's work, the +arch has the edge-roll between hollows (here on every order), the shafts +are detached, their bases round upon square, and their capitals +square-topped, with the edge of the abacus hollowed. The capitals here +are enriched with good foliage of a rather classical type. + +In the stage above are three round-headed windows with a shaft in either +jamb and foliage on the capitals. Each of these windows, like that on +the west side, and several in the other transept, has been divided by a +mullion into two lights, presumably in the fourteenth century.[41] The +third stage, which corresponds to the triforium within, is blank here as +on the west side, and in the fourth stage are three round-headed +windows, plainly recessed and chamfered. The gable, on which stands a +plain cross, has been lowered, as is shown by the weathering on the +tower, and its sides, after descending, take an upward turn to meet the +corners. It is flanked by two lofty square turrets, which have been +compared with those on the west front of Tewkesbury. They have a shaft +at each angle, are pierced on each face with two round-headed openings +under a round arch, with a string below running round the turret, and +are surmounted by pyramidal stone caps ending in pommels and having a +rude pinnacle at each corner. The end of the aisle is set back, and +displays a window like the three above the door, but without the +dividing mullion; and above this a round-headed niche, doubtless once a +window that lighted the space over the aisle-vault; while a round arch +over this niche, and a little pointed arch on the buttress adjacent +westwards, carry a curious thickening of the masonry above. The +arrangement of the windows here breaks the continuity of the first +string-course, which, after crossing the main elevation, has to be +stopped and resumed at a lower level in order to pass beneath the +windows of the aisle. At the corner of the latter are more clustered +buttresses, terminating below the parapet, and above them rises a plain +gabled pinnacle (an addition, probably, of the fourteenth century), +while another buttress, rising from the inclined coping of the +aisle-wall, runs up the clearstorey. + +The east side of the aisle has two more buttresses like those at the +corner, and consists of two bays, each containing a window like that at +the end. It is hard to say whether the moulded string or cornice below +the parapet is original, but the gargoyle which juts from it and the +parapet itself, with its cruciform piercings, are not earlier than the +fourteenth century. The roofs of the aisles in both transepts and in the +choir have been lowered, and it has been suggested that this was done at +the time when the Minster was fortified against the Scots, in order to +afford better standing-room for armed men,[42] and the various +battlements on choir and transepts were probably erected for the same +occasion. Here the round arches of the triforium have been built up, and +the clearstorey harmonizes with the more elaborate scheme of the choir. +The wall is divided into three bays by flat pilasters received in the +cornice, and each bay contains a round arch, pierced and glazed, between +two lower and narrower pointed arches, all resting on single detached +shafts. Between the buttresses runs a corbel-table, supporting a +battlemented parapet of Decorated character, in which the merlons are of +great width in proportion to the embrasures--an early feature--and have +the usual cruciform piercings, so splayed at the back as to leave no +doubt that they were really intended for the use of archers. The three +gargoyles below have been renewed, and none of the gargoyles on choir or +transepts are earlier, perhaps, than the Decorated period. + +=The Choir. North Side.=--Here the three westernmost bays of the aisle and +clearstorey respectively are Archbishop Roger's work. Two flat +pilaster-buttresses rise out of the slope of the plinth and run up the +aisle-wall, each terminating short of the parapet in two sets-off close +together. The level of the window-sills was the same here as in the +transept, but the string-course has been broken in the Decorated period +by the insertion of three slender windows, each having two lights with a +quatrefoil above. Above the windows comes the moulded string or cornice +continued from the transept, and above this the pierced merlons of the +Decorated battlement are again very broad in proportion to the +embrasures. Instead of being built up, the exposed arches of the +triforium have here been glazed. The clearstorey resembles that of the +transept, but the corbel table is surmounted here by a slope, on which +rest two large gargoyles (renewed), and instead of a Decorated +battlement there is a plain coping. + +The last three bays of the clearstorey and the last two of the aisle are +Decorated work, probably of the end of the thirteenth century, and here +the level of the plinth is again lowered to suit the slope of the +ground. In the aisle the two bays are separated from the rest and from +each other by buttresses having a projection of 8 feet. Either of these +buttresses is crowned by a gable having a finial, and is surmounted by a +tall square pinnacle to receive the thrust of a flying buttress that +spans the aisle; and either pinnacle has its sides panelled and gabled, +a head at each corner, and five finials. The two last aisle-windows are +larger than those in the western bays, but have much the same tracery. +They have, however, a thick shaft worked on the stones of the jamb, and +a large keeled round on the edge of the arch, and there is no dripstone. +Below them is a small string-course, which is carried round the east +end. The string or cornice above them is made to match that on the +western portion of the aisle, but in the battlement the merlons are of +merely ordinary width. In the clearstorey the wall is considerably set +back from the Transitional bays, and the three windows are very +elaborate. Their arches are richly moulded and acutely pointed, the +springing-line being rather low down. Each window is divided into four +lights, comprised under two sub-arches, either of which contains a +circle enclosing a trefoil, while above, in the head of the window, is a +large circle with five trefoils radiating from its centre. The +dripstones end in heads. A moulded string-course, with gargoyles, runs +below the parapet, which is a continuation of the plain coping on the +western bays. + +From this point it will be best to return to the west front, and proceed +along the south side of the Cathedral. + +=The Nave. South Side.=--This side is architecturally superior to the +other, and differs from it greatly in detail. The plinth, which is very +massive, rises even higher above that of the west front here than it +does there, and the buttresses project over 8 feet at the base and are +of three stages, and the gables on these have their sides straight, +their eaves everywhere continued to the wall, and their corners enriched +with heads, but on the second stage only. In the two easternmost +buttresses the lowest stage has heads also, and in the last buttress +eastwards this stage, for some unexplained reason, is twice as broad as +the others, and has an ogee gable. On all gables the crockets are large, +and the finials, which here stand upon the apex, are huge and very +boldly executed; while the rudimentary pinnacles are thicker here than +on the north side and more detached from the parapet. The wall is +thickened up to the windows, below which there is a set-off, and the +windows themselves are so moulded as to seem set in heavy frames, and +are much less acutely pointed than in the other aisle, their arches +approaching the 'drop' form. The rather clumsy mullions are carried up +through the head, but branch out to form arches over the side lights, +and are reduced in thickness above the branching point; and in the head +there is a transom, except in the narrow easternmost window. Though the +aisles differ so much, the clearstorey is much the same on this side as +on the other, and again one of Archbishop Roger's buttresses is visible, +imbedded between the Perpendicular walling and the west tower. The +height of his roof is indicated by the weathering on the central tower +and by the west gable, and the sixteenth century roof was probably not +lower, for the central tower shows high weatherings of the latter period +also; but the pitch had been lowered before the last restoration, and +Sir Gilbert Scott was unable to raise it to the full height. It is to be +hoped that the raising may yet be accomplished, and that lead may be +substituted for slate. + +=The South Transept=, all but its eastern side, is mainly Archbishop +Roger's work. The plinth is altogether lower not only than that of the +nave, and even of the west front, but also than that of the other +transept, and the architecture thus expresses the downward slope of the +ground from north to south as well as from west to east. Here, as in the +nave, the buttresses have a greater projection than on the north side of +the church, as if the ground here were more liable to settle. As this +transept bears a general resemblance to the other, it will be best to +note only the points in which they differ. In the west wall the window +in the second stage has no mullion, the innermost buttress is of the +same type as its next neighbour, and the parapet is returned over all +the buttresses, thus forming three 'turrets,' of which that nearest to +the nave rests partially on a large corbel. The staircase at the +south-west corner terminates at the top in a square turret with a +pyramidal stone cap. + +In the south elevation the doorway is very elaborate. The opening is of +the form sometimes called the shouldered arch, a square lintel (which, +curiously enough, is not one stone) resting on corbels; and the +semicircular arch over this is of four orders, the uppermost of which +projects considerably from the wall. On either side there are five +shafts, the outermost order having two, which are placed on the front of +the jamb and share one abacus. These two shafts are worked on the stones +of the jamb--a mode of construction not very common in such early +doorways. The details resemble those of the less elaborate doorway in +the other transept, but some of the foliage on the capitals here is +almost Early English. This doorway is approached by five steps, and was +once covered by a Renaissance porch. + + [Illustration: DOORWAY, SOUTH TRANSEPT.] + +In the windows of the second stage the abacus of the capitals is +continued as a string from window to window. The two flanking buttresses +have been crowned at some later period with gables ending in finials, +and the great gable is pierced with a Perpendicular window of three +lights, which has three transoms in the head, the mullions carried up to +the archivolt, and a dripstone ending in foliage. The sides of the gable +here do not take an upward turn to meet the corners, and there are no +flanking turrets. In the end of the aisle the blocked upper window is +pointed, and has a little trefoiled niche above and to the left of it, +and there is no thickening of the masonry above to necessitate +carrying-arches. The buttresses at the corner reach to the top of the +parapet and have no surmounting pinnacle. The small portion of the east +side of the aisle which is not concealed by the Chapter-house and +Lady-loft displays in the lower stage a somewhat inexplicable blind +arch, carrying an inclined thickening of the masonry that has been +afterwards built up to a level, and below the parapet a moulded cornice +like that on the north side of the church. This cornice is continued +within the Lady-loft, and reappears over the last bay of the +choir-aisle. + +=The Chapter-House.=--The south aisle of the choir is concealed by a wing +of three storeys, of which the lowest, though exposed to view by the +conditions of the site, is of the nature of a crypt, while the second +comprises the Chapter-house and vestry, and the third, known as the +Lady-loft, is an addition, probably of the fourteenth century. The first +two storeys seem to have formed part of a church earlier than Archbishop +Roger's,[43] and have been variously ascribed to Archbishops Thurstan +(1114-1141)[44] and Thomas of Bayeux (1069-1100).[45] From the east wall +of these two storeys an apse is thrown out, upon which rests a square +projection from the Lady-loft, too short to be called a chancel. The two +westernmost buttresses, up to the string above the crypt, are evidently +additions by Archbishop Roger, while the third, which completely encases +a three-sided apsidal projection at the corner of the vestry, is of much +later date and will be examined presently. Adjoining it is a flat +pilaster buttress, apparently original. The crypt has five unglazed +windows along the south side, all round-headed and plainly splayed, and, +where it joins the transept, there is a large rectangular squint which +gives light to a staircase that leads up to the Chapter-house. A pointed +doorway, made in later times, cuts into the fourth window from the west. +In the second storey there are on this side only four windows, which are +spaced without any regard to the position of those below. The two +westernmost, which are circular and without tracery--a type of window +that is somewhat rare--can hardly be later than the time of Archbishop +Roger, and may be earlier: the next two are square and of much later +date. Above the windows the eaves of the original roofs remain, +supported on a corbel-table which is carried round the apsidal chamber +at the corner and round the eastern apse. At the south side of the +latter the builders have left a narrow recess which extends from the +ground nearly to the top of the crypt. + +The apse displays in the lower storey a round-headed unglazed window +like those along the south wall, and in the upper storey a small +round-headed light at the south side and a larger window in the middle, +of the same size as that below, but not so deeply splayed, and with the +head rudely trefoiled. On either side of these central windows, a shaft, +made in short joints, runs up the apse from base to eaves. The string +between the two storeys is carried round these shafts, and their +circular bases overhang the plinth and rest on small blocks, while the +capitals are square-topped, as in Archbishop Roger's work. From the roof +of this apse and of the apsidal chamber at the corner, and from the +eaves that project along the south wall, it would seem that the whole +structure was roofed with stone at a steep inclination. Where its wall +joins the transept the stone-work seems to be of the same date on both +sides of the corner, so that there may have been an original buttress or +wall extending southwards from this point. + +The third storey is now the Cathedral library, but was originally the +=Lady-chapel=, and was commonly called the Lady-loft. Such a position for +a Lady-chapel--at the south side of the choir, and in an upper +storey--is extremely unusual.[46] Authorities have differed widely as to +its date. Some have assigned it to about 1482; but the Lady-loft is +clearly mentioned in the Treasurers' Rolls in 1470, and its +architecture, which is Decorated rather than Perpendicular, would be in +favour of ascribing it to the middle of the previous century, were it +not for a certain coarseness of execution which makes a suspension of +judgment advisable.[47] To support this additional storey, the two +western buttresses were carried up, diminishing both in projection and +in width, to within a few feet of the upper string-course. The huge +buttress at the corner was very possibly added later, to counteract a +settlement which is evident to anyone so standing as to bring the shafts +on the apse in line with the corner of the choir, and which was +doubtless due to the weight of the Lady-loft. This buttress is of the +same height as the others, but is broader, and has as many as seven +stages, the fourth of which is crowned by a truncated hip roof and +pierced with a slit to light the apsidal chamber within, from whose +sloping top the upper stages spring. Traces of some external means of +access to this apsidal chamber from below may be seen at the west side. +Except one small lancet adjoining this buttress, the windows of the +Lady-loft are square-headed, with mullions branching out into +intersecting arches whose cusps spring from the soffit independently of +the mouldings--an early feature; and the dripstones are square labels +terminating in foliage, but with the ends not returned. Altogether these +are more like the windows of a castle or manor-house than of a church. +The four towards the south are of three lights, but the east window has +five lights and is set higher in the wall, while its dripstone +terminates at one end in a grotesque sitting figure. Various gargoyles +project from the string-course, which rises to pass over the east +window. The angles of the east end seem to rest upon the very edge of +the cornice of the apse, and one wonders how the wall is supported along +the chord of the curve. In reality, however, the apse is not so sharply +curved internally as externally, and its walls are very thick, so that +the square form could be imposed upon the round without much +overlapping. The parapet shows the same wide merlons and cruciform +piercings which characterize the other Decorated parapets of the church, +and it may have been brought forward from the choir-aisle. + +The last bay of the latter displays a window like those on the north +side, but having foliage on the capitals of the shafts; and below the +parapet runs the cornice continued from the transept, with a curious +gargoyle upon it. Part of the base of Archbishop Roger's choir-aisle is +visible imbedded between this wall and the apse. + +Those parts of the church which were rebuilt after the collapse of the +south-east corner of the tower can be best examined from the roof of the +Lady-loft, which forms with the roofs of the aisles a level surface of +considerable extent. + +=The East Side of the South Transept= has three buttresses, crowned by +pinnacles of which the two nearest to the tower are modern. The central +buttress is much shallower than the others and has a different +termination. The clearstorey displays three well-arched windows of three +lights (the innermost window a little smaller than the others) with +tracery not unlike that in the south aisle of the nave. The parapet is +probably old Decorated work that has been used again, for it has the +wide merlons and cruciform piercings characteristic of early +battlements, and the Perpendicular pinnacles, it will be noticed, are +not in the middle of the merlons. The manner in which the corner of the +tower has been reconstructed is extremely interesting. Up the angle +formed by choir and transept runs a sort of excrescence of masonry that +blossoms out, so to speak, into an extraordinary complication of +corbelling near the top, and is itself corbelled away at the bottom. In +this excrescence, as elsewhere, old materials have been used again, and +in the projecting mass, at the level of both triforium and clearstorey, +are the springings of arches curving eastwards and southwards, which +suggest that the adjoining walls had at first been intended to be on a +more advanced plane, and that the arches of the triforium were to have +been round in the transept (where, by the way, they are recessed) as +they are in the choir. This angle contains the tower staircase, which is +lighted by a little window in the upper corbelling and is reached from +the clearstorey gallery of the transept. On this side of the church the +parapet walk has to be carried round the corners of the tower on +squinches. + + [Illustration: RECONSTRUCTED ANGLE OF THE GREAT TOWER, (SOUTH TRANSEPT + AND CHOIR.)] + +=The Central Tower. South and East Sides.=--The south and east faces are +each divided by a central pilaster running up to the top of the parapet, +but otherwise the general scheme is not unlike that of the older sides, +save that the windows here are set higher in the wall. Each window has +two lights, wide and low, with much tracery above them, in which the +mullion branches into two sub-arches; and there are dripstones ending in +heads. The high weathering on these sides indicates that it was not in +the Perpendicular period that the roofs of the church were so +unfortunately lowered. At either end of each of these sides a buttress +rises to the base of the parapet in three stages, the second of which +has on the front a panel with an ogee crocketed hood and is crowned by a +gable with a grotesque at each corner, while the third is narrower, +but is also panelled. Various gargoyles project from the uppermost +string, which on the east side is not broken by the central pilaster. As +this string is higher than the corbel-table of the older sides, the +tower presents a very curious appearance when seen from the south-west +or north-east.[48] The battlements and pinnacles were perhaps first +added when the south and east sides were rebuilt, but in places they +have been much renewed. The stair-turret is surmounted by a hexagonal +stone cap, which is pierced with a spire-light and crowned by a finial; +and there is also a wooden polygonal bell-cote at the north-west corner +of the tower. At the north-east angle the Perpendicular masonry turns +the corner and enfolds the Transitional buttresses, where it stops with +a jagged edge. This unfinished work has a considerable projection from +the Transitional walling, the intention having been, perhaps, to correct +externally the obliquity in the ground plan of Roger's tower;[49] it is +also corbelled away at the bottom, probably to afford freer passage +along the parapet walk and to avoid the necessity of a squinch. +Originally the tower had perhaps a low pyramidal roof without a parapet, +and then came several successive spires. The last of these, which fell +in 1660, is said to have been 120 feet high from the top of the tower, +and its disappearance has surely done more than anything else to spoil +the external effect of the building.[50] + +=The South Side of the Choir.=--Here the three westernmost bays are +Perpendicular and the others Decorated. The westernmost window is +smaller than the rest, and is of three lights, with the mullions carried +up through the head. The next two windows imitate in curvature their +Decorated neighbours, and are of four lights, with the central mullion +branching out to form two sub-arches, between which a foliated circle, a +feature not common in Perpendicular windows, is introduced into the +head. In the fourth bay the Decorated arch has been filled with +Perpendicular tracery, but the fifth and sixth windows remain in their +original beauty as on the north side, save that in the easternmost the +small circles have been mutilated and have lost their foliation. The two +flying buttresses resemble those on the north side, but from the points +where they meet the wall two pilasters run up into the parapet, which is +flush with them and is crowned by a plain coping, while beneath it is a +string, with gargoyles. Except at this end the wall, as in the +clearstorey of the nave, is not buttressed, notwithstanding the size of +the windows and their nearness together. + + [Illustration: FLYING BUTTRESSES, SOUTH SIDE OF CHOIR.] + +=The East End.=--The rebuilding of the east end of Archbishop Roger's +choir was probably the object of an indulgence of 1284 by Archbishop +Wickwaine, a brief of 1285 by Pope Celestine V., two indulgences issued +in 1288 and 1300 respectively by Archbishops Romanus and Corbridge, and +some credentials issued by the latter in 1302 for a collector of funds. +And yet it is hard to fix the date of the work with any exactness. It +had apparently not begun in 1286, for a mandate of Archbishop Romanus in +that year begins _Cancellus Rypon' ruinosus reparetur_; but it may have +been completed before the irruption of the Scots in 1318. Two +indulgences of Archbishop Melton, one of which is dated 1328, do indeed +allude to some "new work" as still unfinished, but this "new work" may +have been the repairs necessitated by the violence of the Scots.[51] The +east end of the Cathedral, then, recalls that period in our history when +Edward I. was wrestling with the Scottish problem, and was also carrying +into effect those lessons in representative government which he had +learnt from Simon de Montfort. + + [Illustration: THE EAST END.] + +The well-marked plinth of this east end has been already noticed. Either +corner of the choir contains a staircase, and is strengthened by a pair +of massive buttresses and crowned by an octagonal turret with a conical +stone cap and a finial. These buttresses have a projection of 8 feet, +rise to the top of the aisles, and are surmounted by gables with +finials, and at the north corner the gables and the coping of the aisle +are crocketed. At the south corner the upper part of the turret has +been used as a cell. It is lighted by a small slit and has a wooden +floor with a trap in it, from which a ladder once descended to the head +of the staircase; and at the west side, in the parapet of the aisle, +there is a garderobe seat. It would be interesting to know whether this +turret was a prison, or a place of penance, or whether it was occupied +by a watchman or sentinel, or, as is not improbable, by one of those +recluses who were so often attached to religious communities in the +middle ages. The central compartment is flanked by two huge buttresses, +which have a projection of 10 feet at the bottom and rise to the base of +the gable, or rather a little above it, in two stages only, the lower +stage reaching a little above the coping of the aisles, and both stages +are crowned by gables with finials.[52] The three compartments of the +front are on the same plane. Each aisle shows at the end a window of the +same pattern with these in the sides, and that in the south aisle has +foliage on the capitals of its shafts and is surmounted by a little +window of trefoil form which lights a staircase within, for staircases +ascend over these windows in the thickness of the wall and run up the +angles of the clearstorey. + +The great window in the central compartment is one of the finest +examples of Geometrical tracery, if not one of the largest windows, in +England. It is over 50 feet high, is 25 feet wide, and has seven lights. +Of these the three at either end are comprised under a sub-arch, in the +head of which are three cinquefoiled circles, while the central light of +the seven is surmounted by an arch, not so high as its neighbours, but +impaling upon its acute point a huge circle which fills the head of the +window and contains six trefoils radiating from its centre. The arch of +this superb window is rather acutely pointed and richly moulded, and has +two very slender shafts worked on the stones of either jamb, with +foliage on their capitals. Just above the ground below this window there +may be observed in the wall one of the many architectural puzzles in +which the Cathedral abounds, a half-arch, rising toward the right and +filled in with masonry, except at the right side, where is a narrow +opening that runs in for a few feet.[53] A string-course continued from +the sides of the aisles passes below the three windows and round the +buttresses, which are further relieved at a little height above it by a +set-off. The gable has been entirely rebuilt by Sir Gilbert Scott. It is +slightly set back, and displays a lofty window of four lights with +geometrical tracery not unlike that in the great window below. On either +side of this window there is panelling graduated to suit the triangular +space, and the gable is crowned by an elaborate cross and flanked by two +pinnacles which resemble those of the flying buttresses but are larger +and have foliage at the corners instead of heads. The original Decorated +gable was probably very much of this pattern. Its height was indicated +by the weathering on the tower, and it seems to have had flanking +pinnacles and graduated panelling. It had, however, been lowered in +pitch and had been altered also by the insertion of a rather debased +Perpendicular window.[54] Whatever may be thought, therefore, of Sir +Gilbert Scott's action in rebuilding it, he has surely improved the +general effect of the front, and it is well that one of the roofs, at +any rate, should have been raised to the original pitch. What is most to +be regretted, perhaps, is the removal of all traces, if any there were, +of the chantry of the Holy Trinity _supra summum altare_, which was +situated, as its name implies, in the roof, behind the old gable. + +In Archbishop Roger's day the choir was probably as long as it is now, +and Walbran (followed by Sir Gilbert Scott) believed that the aisles at +that period were returned across the east end. If so, the clearstorey +must have been a bay shorter than at present, with a pent roof +projecting from below it on the east side to cover the returned portion +of the aisle. The rebuilding of the east end in the Decorated period was +the first operation in which limestone was employed, but much of the old +gritstone has been used again. + + [Illustration: THE NORTH-WESTERN PORTION OF THE NAVE. + (Junction of XIIth and XVIth Century work.)] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[33] The name Ripon comes probably from the Latin _ripa_, "a river's +bank." Bede uses a form "Inrhypum," which arose perhaps out of _in +ripis_. The derivation _Uri pons_ has been generally abandoned. + +[34] The reason of the peculiarity here is the unusual width of the +nave. (_See below_, p. 44.) + +[35] This will be explained in Chapter III. + +[36] See illustration, p. 17. + +[37] This was pointed out by Walbran. + +[38] The Transitional or Transition-Norman work at Ripon probably was +not all erected during Roger's lifetime, but all of it will, in these +pages, be associated with his name. + +[39] Upon a modern Chapter seal there is what is possibly meant for a +representation of Roger's church, with western towers, three spires, and +no aisles. The seal is a reproduction of another of the time of James +I., which may have been reproduced from a third of earlier date. + +[40] For the origin and meaning of this knotwork, so often found in +these islands on ancient crosses, and for its value as an illustration +of the possible connection of Saxon architecture with the Comacine Guild +of Italy, see _The Cathedral Builders_, by Leader Scott, pp. 82-99, and +p. 145. + +[41] This was the case with all the windows of both transepts--in the +lower tier at any rate--until the last restoration. The reason why Sir +Gilbert Scott has left or renewed the mullions in some of the windows is +probably that he did not wish to disturb the memorial glass. + +[42] The suggestion was made by Mr. Francis Bond. + +[43] _I.e._, they were probably a Southern Chapel of the choir (_vid. +inf._, Ch. III.). It is doubtful whether this earlier choir itself can +have had a crypt. + +[44] By Sir Gilbert Scott. + +[45] By Walbran. + +[46] Lady-chapels are usually found at the extreme east end of the +choir, unless that position was wanted for the resting-place of a local +saint. + +[47] Walbran favoured 1482; Sir Gilbert Scott the middle of the +fourteenth century. + +[48] See the illustration, p. 2. + +[49] _The Builder_, February 4th, 1893. + +[50] This last spire must have been erected after all intention of +rebuilding the north and west sides of the tower had been given up, and +therefore (perhaps) after the dissolution. The three spires are shown +upon the seventeenth century communion plate and in several old prints +(see the illustration, p. 32). They were wooden and covered with lead, +and are represented as octagonal. The two at the west end are shown +without parapets at the base, and all three are without those sloping +spurs which so often connect an octagonal spire with the corners of the +tower. + +[51] Dean Waddilove, in his monograph on the Cathedral, mentions that +the date 1330 is to be found upon the choir, but he does not say where. +Walbran believed the work to have been executed between 1280 and 1297, +and is followed by Sir Gilbert Scott. + +[52] The buttresses of this east wall were formerly connected at the +bottom by a debased battlemented wall, and the space within was used for +sheds, the grooves for whose pent roofs can be seen on the sides of the +buttresses. + +[53] The arch springs from the buttress (as an excavation in 1900 +showed), and may perhaps be a relieving-arch, to take the weight off a +weak place in the foundations. Yet it was not intended, apparently, to +be filled up. The stones forming the right edge of the hole are coigns, +and have mason-marks on their sides. At the back of the hole the masonry +appears to be of some antiquity: may it be part of the foundation of the +east end of Archbishop Roger's choir? + +[54] There are several prints of the Cathedral, as it was before +restoration, in the Ripon Museum. + + + + + [Illustration: CONJECTURAL VIEW OF INTERIOR OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER'S NAVE + BY SIR G. G. SCOTT. + (By the kind permission of the Archæological Institute.)] + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE INTERIOR. + + +=The Nave.=--On entering through the west doors a perspective is disclosed +of 133 feet to the end of the Nave, 170 feet to the Rood Screen, and 270 +feet to the end of the Choir. The Early English builders have preserved +two bays of Archbishop Roger's nave and have incorporated them into the +west towers,[55] and the two great tower-arches which they have cut +through the Transitional walling are very fine specimens of the Early +English style. Each of the half-pillars that support them is a cluster +of five large engaged shafts separated by very deep hollows, and upon +every shaft there is a large fillet, which is carried up into the +capital and down over the base. The base consists of two round mouldings +separated by a hollow and fillets, and overhangs the plinth so much as +to suggest that the floor just here has been lowered. The capitals and +the arches themselves (which are of three orders) are moulded with +rounds and hollows very strongly marked, and the hood of the southern +arch terminates eastwards in a bunch of foliage. + +The interior of the towers is more richly treated than is usual. Over +the tower-arch is a small arcade of four members with clustered shafts, +and with a string below, while the other three walls are plain up to the +windows, each of which is flanked, as on the exterior, by two blind +lancets. The arcading thus formed has clustered and banded shafts (not +detached), behind which ran a passage, now blocked, and below the sill, +and a little distance apart, are two strings, to the lower of which the +sills of all the windows save two descend in steps. The windows are not +splayed, and those which now look into the aisles are unglazed, and +their flanking lancets are of unequal width. All the arches are much +moulded and ornamented with the dog-tooth, and the central shaft of each +cluster has a fillet. In each corner a detached shaft springs from a +round corbel above the lowest string and rises to the impost of the +arches, being banded twice on the way; and from its capital another +shaft runs up to the ceiling. The doors to the spiral staircases open +into little square lobbies which have vaults with groin-ribs springing +from corbels.[56] In the north tower is a modern stained window of some +merit. + +The two bays of Archbishop Roger's work incorporated in the towers, +taken together with another Transitional bay at the east end, make it +possible to imagine the whole interior of what must have been the most +remarkable nave in England. It was unusually broad. From the ground to +the first string (about 16 feet) there was plain wall. Above this was a +triforium (if it can be so called[57]) of the unusual height of about 28 +feet, and there were thus no windows except in the clearstorey, and +there only in alternate bays. According to Sir Gilbert Scott the +triforium and clearstorey were probably continued across the west wall. +The bays were alternately broad and narrow, and there is room for five +of each sort. The westernmost bay shows in the triforium stage a round +arch comprising four pointed arches. Of these the two in the middle are +raised above the others on shafts of two stages, in the upper of which +the capital is circular and its moulding is continued along the tympanum +to the _apices_ of the two lower arches. The tympanum is relieved by a +sunk quatrefoil in a serrated circle, and so is the space under either +of the two central sub-arches. The passage in this bay has been built +up, and the bay itself shortened, probably when the tower arches were +made. + + [Illustration: CONJECTURAL PLAN OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER'S CHURCH BY SIR G. + G. SCOTT. See _p._ 16. + (By permission of the Archæological Institute.)] + +In the adjoining narrow bay, the comprising arch is pointed, there are +only two sub-arches, and there are no quatrefoils, except in the +tympanum on the north side. Doors have also been inserted in this bay to +communicate with the passages behind the arcades in the towers. + +The shafts throughout are single, and (in the sub-arches) detached, and +the details generally are the same as in all Archbishop Roger's work. It +is worthy of remark that the tympanum over the sub-arches is flush with +the lower part of the wall, and that the comprising arches, with all the +walling above them, are a plane in advance. The more natural plan would +have been to make the comprising arch flush with the wall below, and to +have set back the sub-arches and tympanum. In consequence of Archbishop +Roger's arrangement the shafts of the comprising arch stand, not upon +the sill of the triforium, but upon corbels, each of which carries two +of them and also a roof-shaft[58] which forms with them a cluster. + +The clearstorey shows in the broad bay a stilted round arch, pierced, +between two small blind lancets, and in the narrow bay three small blind +lancets. These arches are not recessed or moulded, and are without +hoods, as usual. Their piers, behind which is a passage, are square, and +the impost moulding is continued as a string. + +The roof-shafts have a curious break in them at the impost-level of the +triforium, where a face is carved upon them with a band above it. They +are banded also by the impost-moulding of either storey, and by the +upper string-course, and end in square-topped capitals a little short of +the present roof. Throughout Archbishop Roger's church the roof was +probably flat, or slightly coved as at Peterborough. The corbels from +which the roof-shafts spring are moulded and finished off with scrolls, +and are placed at the level of the string-course, which is undercut; but +on either side of the tower-arches the shafts have been shortened to a +point above the string, which has been made continuous beneath them, and +instead of corbels they have grotesque heads carved upon their ends. +Beyond the westernmost roof-shaft there is a further shaft, which at +first sight seems to have been the beginning of another bay, but the +round moulding which rises from it runs up vertically instead of curving +over to form an arch. + +The western wall is far more impressive from within the church than from +without, and shows the Early English style at its best. The three +doorways have stilted segmental arches moulded with rounds, and their +hood-moulds are continuous. Their shafts are single and engaged, and in +the jambs are holes for the great bars which no doubt held the doors +against the Scots in 1318. But if the doorways are plainer, the great +lancets above are much richer, on this side than on the other. Their +arches have more mouldings, their hood-moulds as well as the +string-courses are enriched with the nailhead, the dog-tooth is used +more profusely, and the piers are clusters of seven engaged shafts +instead of five, banded at half their height and having behind them in +both tiers passages which formerly communicated with the towers. The +glass, by Burlison and Grylls, is worthy of its framing. It was put up +to the memory of the late Bishop in 1886. In the lower tier "the earthly +type" is represented by the Parable of the Ten Virgins. In the upper +tier, in which the various designs represent "the Heavenly type," the +Bride is the Church, and Our Lord is seen enthroned and surrounded by +choirs of angels. + +The yellow gritstone of the older work is contrasted curiously with the +white limestone of the Perpendicular nave, and at the junction the later +builders have left a jagged edge. Among very late Gothic buildings there +are few indeed which are of so good a quality as this nave of Ripon, +which, like the late church towers of Somerset, shows that mediæval art +took long to die out in regions remote from London. It is, indeed, the +architecture of the days of Agincourt rather than of the eve of the +English Renaissance. The pillars are characteristic of the Perpendicular +style, their section being a square with a semi-circle projecting from +each side, and the corners hollowed. Their bases have complex plinths of +considerable height and are polygonal, but follow roughly the form of +the pillar, and the mouldings, as usual in this style, overhang the +plinth. The capitals, with small mouldings and many angles, are of +somewhat the same form as the bases. On the westernmost complete pillar +of the north arcade are two shields, charged respectively with the arms +of Ripon (a horn) and of Pigott of Clotherholme. The arches, instead of +being of that depressed form which is so common in late work, are very +beautifully proportioned, and their mouldings are bold, numerous and +well-cut. There is no triforium; but a passage, at a slightly lower +level than in Archbishop Roger's bays, runs below the great clearstorey +windows, which were once, no doubt, gorgeous with stained glass. Their +arches are moulded, but the splay is left plain. The roof-shafts, which +are in clusters of three and have fillets upon them, spring from +semi-octagonal corbels, and where each cluster passes the string-course +there is an angel holding a shield. A sign of decadence may be found, +perhaps, in the way in which the hood-moulds of the windows intersect +with these shafts. Though the two sides of the nave are not quite of the +same date, they are almost alike, but for some slight differences in the +capitals, the arch-mouldings, and the hollows on the pillars; the +builders feeling doubtless that any marked variation would mar the +general perspective--a consideration which, of course, could not bind +them in designing the north aisle. The original Perpendicular roof may +have resembled that which now covers the transepts. About 1829 Blore put +up an almost flat ceiling of deal. The present oaken vault, by Sir +Gilbert Scott, was copied from that of the transepts of York Minster, +and is adapted to the old roof-shafts, between which have been added +angel corbels of wood. As the ribs intersect near their springing, they +weave a network over the whole vault, and the carved bosses at the +intersections amount to 107. A passing notice is merited by the pulpit, +which is Jacobean. + + [Illustration: THE NAVE, LOOKING WESTWARDS.] + +East of the five Perpendicular bays remains the second fragment of the +old nave, namely, a portion of a broad bay, partly encased by the later +masonry, and one complete narrow bay. In the latter the tympanum on both +sides is relieved by a quatrefoil, which here is pierced and not +enclosed in a circle, and the last shaft eastwards (one of those of the +comprising arch) runs to the ground. Affixed to the north wall is an +eighteenth century monument to Hugh Ripley, last Wakeman and first Mayor +of Ripon (d. 1637). The original monument was destroyed during the Civil +War, but the altar-like erection below the present structure was +probably part of it. The roof-shaft west of this bay, for some unknown +reason, ends considerably short of the roof in a kind of corbel with +rude foliage upon it. In the south wall is a triangular piscina, which, +if it is of Roger's date, is among the oldest piscinæ in the country. + + [Illustration: PLAN OF THE SAXON CRYPT. + (From drawings by Mr. W. H. St. John Hope and Mr. T. Wall.)] + +=The Saxon Crypt=, sometimes called =St. Wilfrid's Needle=.--From a +trap-door in the pavement below the piscina a flight of twelve steps +winds down into a flat-roofed and descending passage, 2-1/2 feet wide +and slightly over 6 feet high, which, running a few feet northwards and +bending at right angles round the south-west tower pier, extends +eastward for about 10 yards, with a descent of one step near the end, +and terminates in a blank wall. There is a square-headed niche at the +turn and a round-headed niche at the end, both meant, doubtless, to hold +lights. Three feet from the end a round-headed doorway, 2 feet wide and +over 6 feet high, opens northwards, with a descent of two more steps, +into a barrel-vaulted chamber, 11 feet 5 inches long from east to west, +7 feet 7 inches wide, and 9 feet 10 inches high. In the north wall of +this chamber, and approached by three rude steps, is the celebrated St. +Wilfrid's Needle, a round-headed aperture pierced through into a passage +that runs behind. This aperture was connected with one of those +superstitions that so often flourished before the Reformation in notable +centres of religion, and ability to pass through it or 'thread the +needle' was regarded as a test of female chastity; but it was, of +course, in the later middle ages that this superstition arose, and the +'needle' (or rather needle's eye) is evidently only one of the original +niches with the back knocked out. Of these niches (which again were +doubtless for lights) there are four in the chamber besides the +'needle,'--one in each wall,--and, like the niche, at the end of the +passage of entrance, they all have semicircular heads each cut in a +single stone. That in the west wall has a hole or cup at the bottom, +probably to hold oil in which a wick might float, while the others +(except the 'needle') have a sort of funnel at the top, doubtless to +catch the soot from lamps. In the east wall there is also a round-headed +recess of larger size, the meaning of which will be discussed later. An +excavation made in 1900 has lowered the earthen floor and revealed a +set-off running round the chamber,[59] and upon the ground at the east +end are traces of a later mediæval altar, namely, a long stone parallel +with the east wall and having behind it a small rectangular enclosure +bounded by other wrought stones. Some of the latter were only laid bare +at the above-mentioned excavation, when, moreover, the enclosure was +found to be a pit containing bones, some of which had belonged to a man, +others to an ox, others to a bird. These were probably regarded as +relics, and may have been buried here at the Reformation for safety,[60] +but it is possible that they were placed here at an earlier period, and +that this is an instance of a relic-pit. Two other deposits have been +found in the crypt in modern times, one behind the niche in the south +wall of this chamber, the other behind the niche at the end of the +passage of entrance. Most of the bones in these deposits were human, but +one had belonged to an ox, another to a bird, another to a sheep, while +others could not be identified. These bones again were probably +'relics,' and had almost certainly been built up behind the niches at +the Reformation[61] for concealment. From the west end of the chamber +another doorway similar to the last opens, with an ascent of one step, +into a second chamber, 12 feet long from north to south, 4 feet wide, 9 +feet high, and roofed with a semi-vault rising eastwards, in which there +has been a square opening, probably for ventilation. At the north end a +flight of four steps, lighted doubtless from the square niche in the +west wall, ascends eastwards to the passage behind the 'needle.' Of +these steps the lowest occupies the whole width of the chamber, while +the second, on being cleaned at the time of the excavation +above-mentioned, was found to have its upper and western surfaces sunk +in the middle and traversed at one end by two parallel raised bands, and +to show traces of that yellow enamel-like substance with which, indeed, +the whole crypt seems to have been originally overlaid. In roof, width +and height the passage at the top of these steps resembles that by which +the crypt was approached, but it is spanned at the entrance by a round +arch, and gradually ascends, terminating in a staircase now blocked at +the fourth step (or perhaps the fifth, since one seems to have been +removed at the bottom), while in the roof may be traced the shape of the +long opening (rounded at the western end) through which these stairs +once led up into the church. From the point at which they are blocked +the distance to the arch that spans the passage is about 18 feet. It +will be noticed that the floor of this passage is level with the +'needle,' which on this side, moreover, has been broken through so as to +open out like a funnel. + + [Illustration: THE SAXON CRYPT, EAST END OF THE CENTRAL CHAMBER. + (St. Wilfrid's needle on the left.)] + +There is little doubt that this crypt is the work of Wilfrid. It +strongly resembles another at Hexham in Northumberland, which is almost +certainly his since it agrees with a description given by his +contemporary Eddius, and (more fully) by Richard, Prior of Hexham in the +twelfth century. As, therefore, Wilfrid is known to have built a church +in either of these places, and as the crypts remaining resemble each +other, and as that at Hexham is almost certainly his, it is natural to +conclude that this at Ripon is his also.[62] And the subject has had +fresh light thrown upon it as archæology has progressed. It is thought +that the Romanizing party which prevailed at the Synod of Whitby +affected for its churches the Italian type,[63] one of the +characteristics of which was the _Confessio_, an underground chamber for +relics[64] situated under the high altar, and surrounded, except toward +the church, by a passage reached by steps from the body of the building, +whence, moreover, there were generally steps leading up to the floor of +the presbytery, and sometimes an incline stretching down to a window +that looked into the chamber below. Now the present entrance to this +crypt at Ripon is not original. To mention some of the evidences of +this, there are in the roof of the passage several tombstones (one at +the entrance and two beyond the bend) bearing incised crosses of the +thirteenth century, and 15 feet west of the doorway into the central +chamber there are signs that a cross-wall has been cut through. The only +part of the work, then, which is original is that which extends +eastwards of this point, and in Saxon times there was probably only one +entrance to the crypt, namely by the north passage; indeed, it seems +likely that the formation of an approach from the nave was +contemporaneous with the blocking of that passage, and that both +alterations were due to the incompatibility of the original disposition +of the crypt with the subsequent arrangements of the church above. Now +if that original disposition has been indicated correctly, the crypt +presented all the more important characteristics of a _confessio_. There +is the central chamber with a window looking into it (for this is the +probable explanation of the arched recess in the east wall),[65] and +there is the surrounding passage, which, however, is interrupted at the +south-west corner of the crypt in such a way that it is necessary to +pass through the chamber itself.[66] An excavation made in 1891[67] +failed to reveal any traces of a staircase at the east end of the south +passage, but as there are many instances in Italy of a _confessio_ +without a second stair, this failure is of little importance. If, then, +this crypt may be assumed to be a _confessio_, there follows a very +interesting consequence. The fact that the surrounding passage was +entered from the east, that it runs round the west and not the east end +of the central chamber, and that the blocked window (if such it be) is +in the east wall of the latter, indicates that the nave lay to the +east,[68] in other words, that the presbytery was at the west end of the +church. Such a position for the high altar is ultra-Roman, was already +being discontinued in Wilfrid's day, and had probably never been seen in +the north, unless here and at Hexham; all of which considerations, in +the light of the known bias and character of Wilfrid, are in favour of +the theory above propounded.[69] It is impossible to say with certainty +whether Wilfrid's presbytery was apsidal or square; and whether his +church had aisles or not.[70] + + [Illustration: CONJECTURAL PLAN OF THE CRYPT AND PRESBYTERY IN THE + TIME OF WILFRID, BY MR. J. T. MICKLETHWAITE, V.P.S.A. + (By permission of the Archæological Institute.)] + +There remains the question whether this crypt was or was not under the +church of the monastery. In Leland's description of Ripon,[71] "the Old +Abbay of Ripon" is certainly represented as having stood on the site +which in Leland's time was occupied by the Lady-kirk, adjacent, that is, +to the west side of the street now called St. Mary-gate;[72] and it has +been argued with great ability[73] (on the supposition that "the Old +Abbay" means the Saxon Monastery) that this crypt, though almost +certainly Wilfrid's, was under a second church outside the monastery +wall.[74] It is, however, still possible to suppose that the site in St. +Mary-gate may have been that of the domestic buildings only, and that +the monastery church stood over this crypt; or that "the Old Abbay" +means the Scottish Monastery, the site of which was also probably not +far from St. Mary-gate and may have been confused by Leland with that +afterwards occupied by the Lady-kirk. Nor in any case, perhaps, are the +mere statements of Leland a sufficient foundation for the argument that +has been constructed upon them. Indeed, an elaborate _confessio_ like +this would hardly have been made for any church other than that of the +monastery. + +And if, after all, Wilfrid's monastery church stood above this crypt, +there arises a very interesting probability in connection with that part +of the south passage which extends 15 feet westward from the doorway +opening into the central chamber, namely that it was the original +burial-place of Wilfrid himself, whom Bede declares to have been laid +_juxta altare ad austrum_.[75] + +The position of the crypt suggests the history of the ground plan of the +Cathedral. After the destruction of Wilfrid's Church, the site of his +nave became that of the choir, and a nave was added westwards. Thus it +came about that the crypt is now in the centre of the building. The +central line or axis of the church in all stages of its history has +probably always passed over this crypt. + +=The Aisles of the Nave.=--As no aisles were contemplated when the west +towers were built, the east side of the latter shows, of course, the +same external decoration as the other sides. At the back of the +surviving portions of the old nave there may be seen at the western end +of either aisle one of Archbishop Roger's buttresses, and at the eastern +end a roughened surface where another buttress has been removed. The two +buttresses that remain have a large set-off near the bottom, and they do +not diminish as they ascend; while from their upper portions, which are +visible outside the church, it would seem that they rose to the very top +of the walls. At a little over 16 feet from the ground there remains +upon them a portion of an external string-course, which is not on a +level with any of those on the exterior of the transepts. Either aisle +opens into the transept with a massive arch resembling those of the +north main arcade, and has along the foot of its wall a bench table, +from which rise the vaulting-shafts. But though preparation had been +made for stone vaulting, the roofs were of wood until the last +restoration, when Sir Gilbert Scott put up the present stone groining. +The effect is good, but would have been better had there been ridge-ribs +and bosses. + + [Illustration: THE TWO FONTS, TWELFTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES.] + +=The South Aisle= contains the font, which was probably among the latest +additions to the church before the dissolution, and formerly stood at +the west end of the nave. This font is raised upon two circular steps, +and is octagonal and of blue marble, with the various surfaces of base, +stem, and bowl slightly hollowed. The sides of the bowl and also of the +base bear shields and lozenges alternately, and upon the base the +lozenges are richly carved. In a corner hard by stands another and much +older font--probably that of Archbishop Roger's church. It is a +circular basin, adorned with an arcade of trefoil arches.[76] + + [Illustration: BAS-RELIEF IN THE SOUTH AISLE OF THE NAVE. + (Reduced from a rubbing.)] + +Against the wall a little further eastwards is an altar-tomb of great +interest. The marble slab at the top has at one end a bas-relief +representing a grove, and in it a lion walking away from a man, who +kneels in an attitude of supplication with his back to the lion, while +between the two figures is a bird flying toward the man. Tradition says +that this is the tomb of an Irish prince who brought back from Palestine +a lion that had there become attached to him, but a story of this kind +was popular in mediæval romances,[77] and the tradition, though of some +age, is not, perhaps, very probable. It has been well suggested that the +sculpture represents deliverance from a lion in answer to prayer; but as +it is possibly only part of a larger composition, its full meaning must +still be doubtful.[78] The work is rather Flemish in character, and may +be assigned to the fourteenth century, with which date the costume of +the man agrees. Thus the slab is considerably older than the wall to +which it is now affixed, and it is doubtless older than the lower part +of the tomb itself, which may be of the same date as the aisle. There +is a black-letter inscription upon the front of the structure, but it is +unfortunately quite illegible. An entry in the Chapter Acts[79] +indicates that this tomb was used as a money-table in business +transactions between the mediæval townsmen. + +The windows have their sides moulded, but somewhat clumsily. That above +the font contains the only mediæval glass in the Cathedral, a collection +of fragments chiefly of the fourteenth century. Most of these were +originally in the great window of the choir, where, being in the upper +tracery, they had escaped the violence of Sir Thomas Mauleverer's +troopers. Among the figures in the medallions are St. Peter, St. Paul, +and St. Andrew, and there is a fine shield of the arms of England, with +a border or mantling of France, and surmounted by a label of three +points azure.[80] The quality of the glass is exceedingly good, and the +window, when the sun shines through it, resembles a screen of gems, and +puts its neighbours to shame. The fourth window from the west, however, +by Clayton & Bell, is of considerable merit. The vaulting-shafts are in +clusters of three, and have overhanging bell-shaped bases with polygonal +plinths, while upon the capitals are angels bearing shields, one angel +to each cluster. The last two shields eastwards are charged respectively +with the arms of Archbishop Savage (1501-1507), and with the three stars +of St. Wilfrid. Where these shafts break the string-course under the +windows they are encircled by a thin band. Upon the eastern fragment of +the old nave there remains in this aisle another portion of Archbishop +Roger's external string-course, and also (near the last capital of the +arcade) some trace of a band of ornament. + +The western end of the =North Aisle= is the Consistory Court, and has been +used as an ecclesiastical court since 1722, when Ripon was still in the +diocese of York. Over the Chancellor's seat is a modern canopy of +stained deal, which formerly surmounted the throne in the choir. The +stone base of the railings, with its many projecting angles and its band +of delicate quatrefoils, is thought to have formed part of the shrine of +St. Wilfrid, and, having been found in fragments, was placed here by +Sir Gilbert Scott. In this aisle the sides of the windows are partially +panelled. The glass is of little interest, save that in the third window +from the west, by Burlison & Grylls, and a few seventeenth century +fragments. The vaulting-shafts here are single, and are half-octagons +with their sides slightly hollowed, and they again break the +string-course, which rises to pass over the doorway. Of the shields on +their angel capitals the three easternmost are charged respectively with +the arms of Fountains Abbey[81] (three horse-shoes), with those of +Cardinal Archbishop Bainbridge (1508-1514) (supported by _two_ angels), +and with the stars of St. Wilfrid. The arch opening into the transept is +not so high as in the other aisle, and upon the space above it are +portions of a once external string-course and buttress. + +=The Central Tower.=--It is from the interior of the church that the +extent of the repairs necessitated by the partial fall of the tower can +best be realized, and it is here that the documentary evidence for their +dates may best be summed up. The catastrophe itself is described in an +indulgence of 1450 by Archbishop Kemp, but the repairs had not advanced +much by 1459, for in that year a testator bequeaths money to this +object, "_cum fuerit in operando_." It would seem, however, from an +indulgence of Archbishop George Neville that the tower had been +partially repaired by 1465. After a bequest in 1466 (the last of a +series beginning in 1454), it seems to be next mentioned in the Fabric +Roll for 1541-2, and the Chapter Acts speak of the work that remained to +be done as late as 1545. The order, therefore, of the larger operations +in the Perpendicular period was probably as follows:--First the Canons +remodelled the two ruinous sides of the tower and the east side of the +south transept (where the work much resembles that in the tower), then +they rebuilt the nave,[82] then the western bays on the south side of +the choir (as the late character of the work itself would indicate),[83] +and lastly they were about to remodel the two remaining sides of the +tower when they were checked by the dissolution. + + [Illustration: THE WESTERN ARCH OF THE CENTRAL TOWER.] + +The planning of the Cathedral is remarkably irregular. Not only is the +axis of the choir, as in so many churches, inclined (here toward the +north) but the centre of the Rood Screen is south of the axis of the +nave, and the north side of the tower is not parallel to the south side, +the north-west angle being less than a right angle. This is the only +angle which remains in its original condition, and here the responds of +the two adjacent arches stand upon one circular plinth, their own bases +being, however, rectangular, though following in the upper mouldings the +forms of the shafts. The capitals of the latter are, as usual, +square-topped. The respond of the western arch has a semicircular shaft +upon the front, and a smaller shaft at the west side, where the pier is +twice recessed. The arch itself springs from the level of the top of +Archbishop Roger's triforium, is semicircular, and has more orders +toward the west than toward the east, but the mouldings (chiefly rounds) +are lacking in boldness, and the absence of a hood-mould (both in this +arch and the other) is a disadvantage. The other respond is concealed by +a huge Perpendicular casing, which, obtruding as it does into the arch, +is a very conspicuous object in the view from the west doors. Upon the +piers of this arch toward the nave are some curious brackets, which +probably supported the original rood-beam.[84] + +The northern arch springs from a higher level, and is less richly +decorated than the other, and its form is almost segmental. It has more +orders toward the south than toward the north, and again the mouldings +are chiefly rounds. Its western respond has a shaft on the front, and at +the south side another, which is banded at the springing-level of the +western arch and carried up to that of the northern arch, where it ends +in a three-sided capital, upon which stands another and very short +shaft, complete with base and capital, that carries the rim of the arch +and an angle of masonry that projects from the corner. The lower portion +of this respond is cased by a rectangular addition (almost as old as the +pier itself), which has upon the front a massive detached shaft with a +circular capital, on which stands a quaint figure of King James I., +brought from the screen of York Minster. To support an image of some +kind may, perhaps, have always been the purpose of this pillar. It has +been suggested that there is a similar projection concealed behind the +casing of the south-western pier. + +Over these two arches is a bold cornice, which possibly once supported a +ceiling, and the blind storey above shows in each wall two pairs of +plain lancets with the impost-moulding continued as a string, and with a +passage behind. In the third storey, where again there is a passage, the +two windows in each wall have a third arch (also round) between them, +and alternating with these three arches are little lancets which have +been blocked as far up as the imposts, their shafts having been first +removed. A cornice supports the ceiling, and on the west side there are +also some rather inexplicable corbels. + +The builders of this tower were certainly misguided in employing round +arches to support it, at a time when (as the choir shows) pointed arches +of considerable size were in common use, and it would seem that the +superior strength of the latter form was not yet fully realized. No +stronger specimens of that form are to be found, perhaps, than the +arches that support the two remaining sides. Their giant piers are +clusters of engaged cylindrical shafts with rounded hollows between, and +at each remodelled angle of the tower the two adjacent responds are +treated as one whole, presenting seven shafts almost on the same plane. +The bases, with their complex plinths and overhanging upper mouldings, +are over five feet high, and the capitals are polygonal, with small and +shallow mouldings, of which the lowest follows the form of the pier. +Slightly stilted, richly moulded, and of many orders, these arches are +so lofty as to leave no room for a blind storey above. Though the +windows here are set higher in the wall, their rear-arches reach down +nearly to the Transitional sill-level. Between the two windows in either +wall a shaft springs from an angel corbel at the string-course below the +sills, and runs up in a kind of groove, and these two shafts, with +another which springs from the junction of the two great arches, end +short of the present ceiling in semi-octagonal capitals, while on the +east wall, and at a lower level, there are more corbels. Indeed, from +the various corbels and shafts in this storey it would seem that the +level of the ceiling had been altered, possibly more than once, and +perhaps that it was destined to be altered again when the remodelling +should be complete. The present ceiling, flat and painted with good +effect, was put up by Sir Gilbert Scott. + +=The Transepts.=--The length of either transept is 43 feet, and that of +both together (including the crossing) is 134 feet, or about the same +as the length of the nave. In the transepts and choir the relative +proportion of the three storeys or stages to one another, which in the +nave was so remarkable, becomes more ordinary, and the change in the +level of the triforium passage--due to the heightening of the lowest +stage to meet the exigencies of aisles--necessitates long staircases +(now blocked) behind the western piers of the tower: and the same is the +case (though in a less degree) with the clearstorey, which in this part +of the church is loftier, instead of being shorter, than the triforium. +In either transept a bench-table runs along the west wall, and the large +lower windows are plainly splayed, but have their sills stepped. The +glass in them is bad, except some seventeenth century pieces in the +window over the north door. The roof, which is of oak, and +Perpendicular, had been concealed in the time of Blore by sham Norman +vaulting constructed of _papier maché_. Sir Gilbert Scott removed this +abomination and exposed the old ceiling, which he repaired and partially +renewed. It is almost flat, is raised on wooden figure-corbels, which +prevent it from intersecting with the tower arches, and is adorned with +judicious colour. + +=The North Transept=, which is 34 feet wide, or 52 feet if the 'aisle' be +included, is almost as its builders left it, and is among the most +famous examples of the architecture of the age of Henry II. and Thomas à +Becket, when the early English style was being developed from the +Norman. As the details are the same here as in all Archbishop Roger's +work, they need no further description. To take the west and north walls +first, the Perpendicular arch opening into the aisle of the nave cuts +into two blocked round arches, of which that on the right was a window, +while that on the left is backed by the old nave wall; and in this first +bay (which is narrower than the others in both this and the opposite +wall) the triforium arches are blocked up, as well as the first lancet +in the clearstorey, where there is moreover no window. Each bay shows in +the triforium two pointed arches with a pierced quatrefoil between them, +and in the clearstorey a stilted round arch, pierced and glazed, between +two smaller arches of lancet form, which on the north wall are very +curiously barred across at the impost level, the _abaci_ of two shafts +being formed by one slab. + + [Illustration: THE NORTH TRANSEPT.] + +The east wall is much more richly treated, and harmonizes in design with +the choir. It might perhaps be more proper to describe the aisles of +these transepts as a series of eastern chapels. Their floor is raised +two steps above the body of the transept, from which they were evidently +once railed off, and in either transept the two outer bays are walled +off from that nearest to the tower. At any rate the arches here have the +appearance of independent units rather than of a continuous arcade. +Separated by roof-shafts of unusual bulk, their responds consist each of +three engaged shafts with a fourth to carry the aisle-vault; and the +bases, rectangular but with the upper mouldings following the pillar, +are united with those of the roof-shafts, while the capitals as usual +are square-topped. The actual arches are of two orders, each of which +has the edge-roll, while under the soffit, which is flat, is another +roll between two mouldings that are hook-shaped in section. The arch +nearest to the tower has given way slightly and has been blocked up, +apparently not very long after it was built, for in the blocking wall is +an acutely-pointed and thrice-recessed doorway of decidedly early +character, and the material throughout is gritstone. The wooden doors +are probably Perpendicular work. + +Adjoining this doorway is a Perpendicular stone pulpit, which has a base +but no stem, and is ascended by means of three steps only. It has five +sides, and is covered with rich panelling, but the top has apparently +been taken off. This may not indeed be its original position,[85] yet it +was a mediæval custom to deliver the sermon just as the procession was +about to enter the choir, and this pulpit is most conveniently placed +for such a purpose. If this is not its original position, it may perhaps +be identified with a nave pulpit mentioned in the Chapter Acts. + +On this east side the triforium shows in each bay a semicircular arch +comprising two pierced lancets and flanked by two blind lancets, with a +quatrefoil pierced through the tympanum under the comprising arch, an +arrangement that is the germ of tracery. Here there is no passage in the +thickness of the wall, as there was an open gallery over the aisle until +the external roof was lowered and the back of the arches blocked. + +In the clearstorey the shafts of the round arch in each bay are doubled, +each couple sharing a common plinth and capital, from which latter +springs a tiny shaft that carries the edge-roll of the arch; and the +lancet arches also, where they adjoin the solid piers between the bays, +have a shaft in the jamb. On all three walls the shafts in this storey +stand on a kind of kerb or parapet, which is interrupted in the middle +of each bay, and the stilt of the round arch is treated almost like a +classical entablature, and has a moulding or cornice above it, while the +uppermost part of the wall is thickened, thereby necessitating over each +bay a comprising arch, which on the north wall is round, but on the +other walls follows the shape of the three sub-arches, and forms a kind +of upper order to them. + +The roof-shafts, which do not break the string-courses, spring from very +various levels: on the east side from the ground, and on the north side +from the unusually high level of the second string, while on the west +side one cluster rises from the first string and the other from above +the second string (having perhaps been shortened in the last case to +make way for the Perpendicular arch beneath). On the east and west walls +these shafts are of a thickness which, besides being out of proportion +to the other parts of the architecture, is structurally unnecessary, for +they do not directly support the roof at all, but end at the top of the +triforium in triple capitals, of which the central member is square and +the others round. Upon each of these capitals, stand three detached and +much thinner shafts--namely, that which really carried the roof-beams, +and those (adjacent to it) of the arches that carry the above-mentioned +thickening of the wall. Thus is afforded a striking instance of the +tendency, so often exemplified in Archbishop Roger's work, to use two +shafts, one on the top of the other, instead of prolonging one--a +tendency which marks the organic development of the style as still +incomplete. On the north wall the three shafts in each cluster are +carried up from their corbel to the top in one piece, unbroken save by a +band at the impost level of the triforium and another at the third +string, and they seem detached throughout their height both from the +wall and from each other. At each corner of the transept the thickening +of the wall over the clearstorey arcade is carried by a shaft which +rises from the bench-table or the ground. + +The roof is entirely modern, and the shields on its corbels bear the +arms of the chief promoters of the last restoration. + +Against the north wall is a fifteenth century altar-tomb, covered with +inferior panelling and shields of arms, and surmounted by the figures of +Sir Thomas and Lady (Eleanor) Markenfield; and adjoining this tomb +(which formerly stood within the aisle) is the lid of a thirteenth +century stone coffin on the floor. In the aisle stands another +altar-tomb, which has the sides panelled and adorned with shields of +arms and bears the figure of an earlier Sir Thomas Markenfield, clad in +armour of the period between Poitiers and Agincourt, and wearing a very +curious collar of park palings with a stag couchant in front, possibly +(as has been suggested) a badge of adherence to the party of Lancaster. +The figure of Lady Markenfield has, unfortunately, been destroyed.[86] + +The aisle is often called the Markenfield Chapel, and doubtless +contained the Markenfield family chantry, which seems to have become +afterwards merged in another foundation.[87] The two bays were +apparently once walled off from each other, the dividing wall having +perhaps been removed to make way for this Markenfield tomb. At any rate, +between the bays of the vaulting there is a plain cross-arch of +remarkable thickness, whose eastern respond is cut off above the tomb, +as are also the two adjacent vaulting-shafts, which have had heads +carved upon their ends. The south wall is probably original, since (to +mention one reason) part of the string-course upon it is worked on the +same stone with the vaulting-shaft. The lower parts of the walls display +traces of a design in red representing round arches interlaced. In the +north wall there is a square aumbry, and in the south wall a large +piscina, with trefoil head and projecting basin. If this piscina is +original, it is a very fine specimen for so early a date. A huge +eighteenth century monument to Sir Edward Blacket of Newby almost covers +the southernmost window, but the remaining two contain glass of some +merit, which in that facing east commemorates the recovery from fever of +King Edward VII., then Prince of Wales. The vaulting springs from single +cylindrical shafts, which rise from the ground and do not interrupt the +string-course. Their bases have three-sided plinths, and their capitals +are enriched with stiff foliage and are three-sided above. + +The vaulting, which is apparently original, deserves especial notice. +Its bays are square, and the groin ribs consist each of three round +mouldings, of which the most prominent is 'keeled';[88] but what is most +remarkable is that there are also ridge-ribs, which are not usually +found before the thirteenth century, and it has been suggested[89] that +this is the earliest instance of their employment. There are also +wall-ribs, and these and the ridge-ribs are much thinner than the +groin-ribs, and consist of a single roll only. + + [Illustration: VAULT OF THE NORTH TRANSEPT AISLE, TWELFTH CENTURY.] + +=The South Transept= is narrower than the other by a yard, its width being +49 feet to the aisle wall (which, it should be noticed, has not been +rebuilt). Without the aisle the width is only 30 feet, but this is +partly due to the Perpendicular alterations. The end and west side of +this transept, which remain more or less as they were in Archbishop +Roger's day, resemble the corresponding walls of the other, yet with the +following differences. The roof-shafts on the west side are thinner here +than there, and are carried up to the required height in one piece, +unbroken save by the string-courses. + +In connection with the attachment of shafts of any considerable height +to wall-surfaces in Archbishop Roger's work, it will be observed that +though the shafts (according to the general practice of masonry) are +usually made in short joints built in at the back, yet (as here) their +jointing sometimes does not harmonize with the coursing of the wall; +again (as in the old nave and north transept) the shafts of a cluster +are sometimes not worked all on the same stones. + +To return to the differences of this transept from the other, the +roof-shafts over the inserted Perpendicular arch (which here obtrudes +into the triforium) descend no lower than the sill of the clearstorey. +Again, the thickening of the walls at the top is supported in the +south-west angle not by one shaft but by two, one of which stands on a +projecting strip of masonry that runs up the angle to the triforium. The +design of the eighteenth century monument against the south wall, to Mr. +Weddell of Newby, is taken from that of the choragic monument of +Lysicrates at Athens. + +On the east side, which has been entirely remodelled in the +Perpendicular period, the bay next to the tower displays from the ground +to the triforium a plain surface broken only by a pointed doorway +surmounted by three cinquefoiled niches with ogee crocketed hoods. The +doorway retains its original doors with an ornamental iron scutcheon +over the keyhole. In their great strength, and in their treatment +generally, the two arches opening into the aisle resemble the +Perpendicular arches of the central tower. The triforium stage is +exceedingly poor, and shows traces of more or less modern disfigurement. +Each bay contains a single arch which does not occupy the whole space, +and which is surmounted by a hood-mould and divided into two sub-arches, +but without cusps. Here again the arches were once pierced through to a +gallery over the aisle, as the exterior of the wall plainly shows; and +this seems to indicate either that the external roof had not been +lowered when these Perpendicular repairs took place, or that possibly +the two lower storeys of Archbishop Roger's wall were left standing, and +have been, not rebuilt, but cased. The appearance of the wall externally +suggests that these arches may have once been round, and the unusual +bulk of the two aisle-arches seems further to support the theory of a +'casing.' In the clearstorey the windows have hood-moulds, but otherwise +are treated much as in the nave. The southernmost contains a fragment of +old glass, bearing the words 'Jhesu mercy.' Along the sill of the +passage may be seen the stumps of uprights which may perhaps have +supported a rail. The roof-shafts are clustered and extremely thick, and +appear the more awkward in that the wall and the shafts with it are set +back at the base of the triforium. In this transept the ceiling is old, +and among the heraldic devices carved upon it are those of the church +itself, St. Wilfrid, the See of York, the Pigotts, the Nortons, and +Fountains Abbey. + +The aisle, the walls of which have not been rebuilt, and which has a +chequered pavement of uncertain date, was for some centuries the +burial-place of the owners of Studley Royal, and is often called the +Mallory Chapel. A curious recess in the south wall is concealed by the +monument of John Aislabie of Studley, Chancellor of the Exchequer at the +time of the South Sea Bubble, and against the north wall is a monument +to that Sir John Mallory of Studley who defended Skipton Castle for +Charles I., and delivered Ripon from Sir Thomas Mauleverer. There is a +square aumbry to the right of this monument, and in the next bay +another, divided by a stone shelf and having modern doors with +ornamental iron-work. The northern bay is almost wholly occupied by a +stone staircase leading up to two doors, one of which opens on the left +into a chamber now containing the bellows of the organ, while the other +opens into the Lady-loft or Library. Over the latter door and over the +Mallory monument will be observed traces of two original windows, which, +before the erection of the Lady-loft, admitted doubtless whatever light +was not blocked out by the old roof of the Chapter-house. On this wall +hangs a royal escutcheon bearing the motto of James I. The vaulting is +Perpendicular, but two of the original supports remain on the east side. +The shaft in the south-east corner resembles those in the Markenfield +Chapel, save that its capital has no foliage; but between the two bays, +instead of two shafts flanking the respond of a thick cross-arch, there +is a cluster of three detached shafts, banded at the string-course, and +sharing a common capital with a semi-octagonal top. It would seem, +therefore, that the two bays here were never walled off from one +another.[90] At the north-east corner the vaulting springs from a +Perpendicular corbel. Its moulded ribs are exceedingly ponderous, and +one of them, not having room to descend upon the pillar, is finished off +with a head. The present Library staircase was put up by Sir Gilbert +Scott in place of an older flight attached to the north wall, and upon +the latter may be seen (behind the stairs) traces of mural paintings in +red and green, representing the Adoration of the Magi and other +subjects. The archaic character of these paintings indicates the age of +the wall, which, nevertheless (unlike the corresponding wall in the +Markenfield Chapel), seems to have been an afterthought, since it +differs from the other walls in the coursing of the stone and in the +pattern of the string-course, and, moreover, at its northern end there +is a 'straight joint,' visible in the choir-aisle. + +=The Rood Screen=, according to Sir Gilbert Scott, is of a date a few +years earlier than 1494, but, if so, it has taken the place of another, +which is mentioned in the Fabric Rolls as early as 1408.[91] The general +design is that of an arched doorway with four large niches on either +side, and a tier of twenty-four small niches over all. The doorway, +which retains its original panelled doors, has three shafts in either +jamb, and is surmounted by a crocketed ogee hood, under which is a +sculpture representing the First Person of the Trinity with attendant +angels. A figure of the Saviour evidently once rested, as Walbran +noticed, upon the knees of the central Figure; above whose head or +shoulder, moreover, there was doubtless once a representation of the +Holy Dove. The niches again have crocketed ogee hoods, and in the lower +tier contain pedestals bearing shields charged with the arms of the +Pigotts and other benefactors, while the sill of the last at either end +of this tier is considerably raised, and the space below panelled. The +niches contain ribbed vaults, and are cinquefoil, with feathered +cusping, and their hoods are prolonged so as to divide the members of +the upper tier into pairs; while from the sides of these hoods, from the +buttresses, and from the curve of the doorway, thin strips of stone, +adorned with knobs that distinctly add to the effect, are carried up to +the cornice, along which runs a row of shields bearing traces of colour. +In the lower part of the screen the spaces between the strips and under +the hoods are filled with tracery. The screen is 12 feet thick, and in +the passage through it are two doors, that on the right opening into a +winding staircase to the loft above, and that on the left into a deep +pit, which once communicated, it is thought, with the north passage of +the Saxon crypt. + + [Illustration: THE ROOD SCREEN.] + +=The Choir.=--The choir extends 92 feet eastward from the screen. Its +width is 33 feet between the columns, or 68 feet if the aisles be +included. A notable peculiarity in it is, that after the lowering of the +aisle-roofs externally, the triforium was glazed, so that there are two +tiers of windows above the main arches.[92] Many styles meet here. The +first three bays on the north side are Archbishop Roger's work, while +the three opposite are Perpendicular, and lastly, the three easternmost +bays on either side are chiefly Decorated. + +To begin with the north side. The arch in the first bay has been built +up, probably to strengthen the tower, and by the twelfth-century +builders themselves, for the abacus-moulding of the capital is continued +across the blocking wall. In the latter the fifteenth-century builders +have made a small pointed doorway, which is now blocked but apparently +once gave access from the top of the screen to a staircase in the north +aisle. This and the two next bays bear in all three stages a general +resemblance to the east side of the north transept. The columns, +however, are clusters of eight cylindrical shafts, and stand upon +circular plinths, the base proper following, of course, the form of the +pillar. The capitals, as usual, are compound and composed of plain +inverted bells, and have square tops with the abacus hollowed and +grooved. The arches differ from those in the transept only in that the +large moulding under the soffit is 'keeled,' and that the mouldings +which flank it are simple ridges. In the triforium the cusps visible in +the glazed sub-arches belong to some tracery which has been applied to +the back at a later period. + + [Illustration: THE GREAT EAST WINDOW.] + +The treatment of the vaulting-shafts is very remarkable; indeed, nothing +is more instructive than the variety shown in the treatment of this +feature throughout Archbishop Roger's church, the different parts of +which are suggestive of nothing so much as of a series of architectural +experiments. Here, upon the capital of each column, rests a sort of +compound rectangular plinth, from which project three corbels, hollowed +underneath and having little blocks beneath their overhanging edge. From +this plinth and corbels springs a cluster of no less than five shafts, +which, by their united width, conceal the springing of the upper order +of the main arches. They are banded at the string-course below the +triforium, and end at the sill of the clearstorey in a compound capital, +of which the three central members are square, and the others round. +Upon this capital, apparently, stand the two adjoining shafts that carry +the thickening of the wall above the clearstorey, and here (but hidden +by the vaulting) stands also the original roof-shaft, and these three +are 'detached.' Thus the arrangement is in principle similar to that +adopted in the north transept, while at the same time the clustered +shafts are even more disproportionate here than there to the slight +burden they have to carry; indeed the effect is that of five shafts +diminishing to one. The vaulting hides a feature which is not found in +the transept, namely, a little lancet arch whose apex comes exactly +behind the roof-shaft in each bay. + + [Illustration: BAY OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER'S CHOIR (WITHOUT THE VAULTING). + (From a drawing by Sir G. G. Scott, by permission of the Archæological + Institute.)] + + [Illustration: DECORATED CAPITAL IN CHOIR.] + +Though the three eastern bays (still on the north side) are chiefly +Decorated, portions of Archbishop Roger's work have been retained or +used again. Thus the fourth column from the west is his, and perhaps the +fifth up to the abacus, which is convex and of limestone. The respond +against the east wall is of his pattern, but it has not the circular +plinth, and the capital is of limestone, has the abacus moulded with +rounds upon the edge, and is covered with delicate foliage in the +Decorated manner. In these arches the lower order has exactly the same +mouldings as in the western bays, and is of gritstone, while the upper +order is of limestone, and has fillets upon the larger mouldings. It +would seem, therefore, that the later builders have used the original +archivolts again, and have merely added another order or orders over it. +The plane of the wall above, indeed, is brought forward to the face of +Archbishop Roger's vaulting-shafts: yet without being really thickened, +since it is set back from his wall on the exterior. At the junction of +the old vaulting-shafts with the additional order of the first Decorated +arch the later builders have carved a group of grotesque faces. In each +bay of the Decorated triforium there is a round arch filled with tracery +consisting of three round-headed and trefoil lights with two circles +enclosing trefoils above them; and on either side of this arch (but on +one three only, in the first of the side bays) is a sunk lancet panel +enclosing a pointed arch impaling a trefoil. The clearstorey has a +second plane of tracery, a feature not very common in England. The +vaulting-shafts are in clusters of three and are filleted, and the +string-course below the triforium is not carried round them. Each +cluster springs from a semicircular corbel resting on a head, and has +its capitals enriched with foliage. The last pendentive of the vaulting +rests on a single shaft springing directly from a head-corbel. The +string-courses are not of the same pattern with those on the older bays. + + [Illustration: THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CHOIR. + (Junction of Transitional and Decorated work.)] + +On the south side the westernmost Perpendicular bay, up to the +triforium, is solid and covered with cinquefoil panelling. In the next +two bays the mouldings of the arch, among which a broad hollow is +conspicuous, are continued down the column, and there is no capital--a +sign of decadence more common in the Flamboyant work of the Continent +than here. There is, however, a debased half-capital on the east side of +the last Perpendicular column, and on the west side of it are three +small heads at the impost-level. These columns are lozenge-shaped in +section, wider from north to south than from east to west, and though +the mouldings end before they reach the bottom of the column, there is +no proper base. Each column has a shaft at the front and another at the +back, the former carrying the rim of the arch and having a stilted +polygonal base but no capital, while the latter has capital as well as +base (both polygonal), and helps to carry the aisle-vault. The spandrels +of these arches are filled with panelling, in which are several shields +(one bearing the arms of Pigott). The triforium again shows in each bay +a round arch; indeed, no better example than this choir could be found +of the truth that the form of the arch is not a safe guide to the date +of a building, but was often dictated by convenience; for here in the +triforium are round arches, of which some belong to the twelfth, others +to the thirteenth, and others to the sixteenth century. The fact that +the distance between the string-courses was already settled by the +Transitional bays, compelled the later builders to make their arches +round, as a pointed arch of the requisite width would have been too +tall. Here the round arch, which is again flanked by two panels, +comprises three cinquefoil lights, and the mullions are carried up +through the head. The panels are pointed and divided each into two +cinquefoil divisions. The Perpendicular clearstorey windows have their +rims moulded, but are not splayed. The vaulting-shafts resemble those in +the Decorated bays, but their corbels are polygonal and have the sides +slightly hollowed, and the abacus of the capital is a half-lozenge. The +string-courses have not been made to match either the Transitional or +the Decorated. The whole of this Perpendicular work is of very late +character, and justifies the belief that it was the last important +alteration in the fabric before the dissolution. Moreover, where it +meets the tower there seems to be a 'straight joint,' which indicates +that these bays are at any rate later than the tower piers. + +East of the Perpendicular pillars the next column is Archbishop +Roger's, and perhaps the next also, with the exception of its capital, +which has two rings upon the necking, with the rectangular top imposed +directly upon them and chamfered beneath, while the abacus (which is of +limestone) is convex.[93] The respond against the east wall is again of +the old pattern, but without the circular plinth, and its capital +resembles that just described. In the westernmost of these southern +Decorated bays three styles meet. The lower order of the arch seems +again to be Transitional work, while in the triforium and clearstorey +Decorated arches have been filled with Perpendicular tracery. In the two +remaining bays the main arches are entirely Decorated, the lower order +being of limestone and the large moulding under the soffit having a +fillet. Over the last two complete columns there is a little foliage, +and of the corbels of the vaulting-shafts one is enriched with foliage +while the other consists of a head between two embracing figures. There +is foliage upon the capitals of these vaulting-shafts, and upon the +capital and base of that which supports the last pendentive of the +vaulting. With the exceptions mentioned, these bays resemble those +opposite. + +It has been remarked that the choir was probably as long in the twelfth +century as it is now. The point is indeed proved if (as there seems no +reason to doubt) the last complete column on either side is original and +occupies its original position; but a further indication is to be found +in the fact that the fragment of the original south wall, the end of +which is visible on the exterior between the south aisle and the apse, +extends well into the last bay of the present choir.[94] + +The huge east window, which is not splayed, has a deep rear-vault +bounded by a massive rib, whose outer edge rests on slender engaged +shafts with foliage on their capitals, while the inner edge ends in +bunches of foliage. Between this rib and the tracery is another rib +springing on the north side from a bunch of foliage and on the south +from a grotesque corbel. The inner arch has slender shafts, and so has +the moulding next to the tracery, but in the latter case the capitals +are plain.[95] Few acts of vandalism are more to be regretted, +probably, than the destruction in 1643 of the magnificent fourteenth +century glass which once occupied this window. The present very poor +glass, by Wailes of Newcastle, commemorates the revival of the see of +Ripon in 1863. + + [Illustration: A Bishop and a King.] + + [Illustration: The Expulsion from Paradise. + BOSSES FROM THE CHOIR-VAULT.] + +Over the window may be seen the mark of one of the earlier roofs. The +choir is thought to have received a groined vault of oak after the +rebuilding of the east end, but this vault was probably renewed more +than once, especially after the accident to the tower about 1450, and +the fall of the spire in 1660. Sir Gilbert Scott found a vault of lath +and plaster (probably the work of Blore) for which he substituted the +present roof, a groined wooden vault, admirable in its lofty pitch and +judicious colouring. Its chief feature, however, is the splendid bosses +along the ridge, which are survivals from either the Decorated or a +subsequent Perpendicular vault. In some of these bosses the figures are +five feet long. + + From west to east the subjects are as follows: (1) A head; (2) an + angel, with foliage; (3) a head; (4) a man conducting a woman to a + church door; (5) a bishop in benediction; (6) a king enthroned; (7) + a bishop enthroned; (8) a king and a bishop enthroned together; (9) + the Crucifixion (modern); (10) the Annunciation; (11) the expulsion + from Paradise; (12)? the good Samaritan; (13) a head. + +There are also good foliage bosses against the walls between the +pendentives. The westernmost pendentive on either side rests on a +Perpendicular corbel carved with delicate foliage. + +The general arrangements of the presbytery have been much changed since +the middle ages. The altar then stood against a screen one bay in +advance of its present position, and the iron hooks upon the second +complete column from the east end on either side held, it is supposed, +the Lenten Veil. Before the last restoration the altar stood, as now, +against the east wall (on a single step, however), but the Sanctuary +still extended two bays westward and was three steps above the rest of +the choir, which was all on one level. Since then the floor has been +raised one step at the east end of the stalls, and the steps to the +Sanctuary have been diminished by one, while there are now two steps to +the altar, and the Sanctuary and the raised portion of the choir have +received an inlaid marble pavement. The reredos, an arcading of slender +arches each enclosing a trefoiled arch impaling a trefoil, is a +restoration of the original Decorated work. The latter had been covered +by a painted screen of wood--possibly of late mediæval workmanship--and +this again by a huge oil-painting of the time of Charles II. Both were +removed to make way for a high reredos by Blore, which in its turn was +taken down by Sir Gilbert Scott.[96] On the pavement south of the altar +is a piscina, which (if this be its original position) must have +belonged to a chapel or chantry behind the high altar--possibly the +chantry of the Holy Trinity _subtus altare_.[97] From its position it +would seem that in those days the floor here was considerably lower than +it is now. + + [Illustration: THE SEDILIA.] + +=The Sedilia.=--The last bay on the south side is now occupied by three +sedilia and a piscina, which form one block. As might be expected from +the mediæval position of the altar, they once stood in the second bay +from the east, and they were not removed to their present position until +the last restoration. Sir Gilbert Scott considered them late Decorated +work, but they have rather the appearance of late Perpendicular. Over +each seat is an ogee canopy, cinquefoil, crocketed, and surmounted by +a huge finial. These canopies rest on square pillars, the sides of which +are adorned with a sort of 'four-leaved flowers,' while the capitals are +encircled with foliage in which are animals and monsters. Each pillar is +surmounted by a pinnacle, and behind each canopy rises a crocketed +gable, again crowned by a huge finial. The gables, the pinnacles, and +the tops of the canopies are the work of Sir Gilbert Scott, who found +the sedilia in a mutilated condition. Below the seats and the piscina +runs a chamfer with 'four-leaved flowers' along it, and below this are +panels enclosing trefoils containing faces. But the most curious feature +of these sedilia is not perceived until a glance is given beneath the +canopies. The carved ends of the cusps are in reality the heads of +extraordinary grotesques whose bodies are curled up against the under +surface of the arch. Some of these figures, in addition to their proper +physiognomy, have faces carved on the crowns of their heads. The +piscina, which has been converted into a credence table, has another +ogee canopy, and is backed by a wall, along the top of which runs a band +of foliage that is continued round the top of a square pillar at the end +of the block. + +The fine oak chairs in the Sanctuary are of modern construction but of +old material, while the rails, lectern and pulpit are all modern.[98] + +In the four easternmost bays the choir is separated from its aisles +(except where the sedilia already block one arch) by elaborate oak +screens of various designs, in the upper part of which the tracery is +largely pendant--an arrangement characteristic of Yorkshire. These +screens have been restored, but contain much of the old work, most of +which is probably of the same date with the stalls.[99] Until the last +restoration they were surmounted by seventeenth century galleries in the +so-called Jacobean style. + + [Illustration: CHOIR STALLS, FIFTEENTH CENTURY.] + +=The Stalls=--thirteen on either side and eight returned against the Rood +Screen--are exquisite specimens of fifteenth century woodwork. They are +surmounted by lofty canopies of elaborate tabernacle-work supported on +slender shafts and rising into a forest of crocketed spirelets and +pinnacles. There are ribbed vaults under the canopies, and upon the +pendants in front are hovering angels. The canopies on the south side +were wrecked by the fall of the spire in 1660, and those over the eight +easternmost stalls were then reconstructed in the 'Jacobean' style with +a gallery above, while of the canopies now over the other nine, eight +are said to have been brought across from the eastern end of the north +range, where more Jacobean canopies were erected in their place. Sir +Gilbert Scott removed all this seventeenth century work and set up +reproductions of the fifteenth century design. Thus the eight +easternmost canopies on either side are modern. The misereres and arms +of the stalls are exquisitely carved. + + [Illustration: Jonah emerging from the whale. + Pelican feeding her young. + MISERERES, FIFTEENTH CENTURY.] + + The subjects upon the former are as follows, beginning from the + archway in the screen:-- + + _North side_:--(1) (CANON IN RESIDENCE) lion attacked by dogs; (2) + dragon attacked by dogs; (3) angel with shield; (4) dragon and + birds; (5) hart's-tongue ferns; (6) conventional flowers; (7) ape + attacked by lion; (8) vine; (9) birds pecking fruit; (10) + antelopes; (11) fox preaching to goose and cock; (12) fox running + off with geese; (13) fox caught by dogs; (14) dragons fighting; + (15) fruit and flowers issuing from inverted head; (16) man holding + club with oak leaves and acorns; (17) (MAYOR'S STALL) griffin + catching rabbit. + + _South side_:--(1) (DEAN) angel with book; (2) angel with shield + bearing date 1489; (3) lion _versus_ griffin; (4) griffin devouring + human leg; (5) owl; (6) mermaid with mirror and hair-brush; (7) two + pigs dancing to bagpipe played by a third; (8) Jonah thrown to the + whale; (9) man wheeling another who holds a reed and a bag; (10) + fox caught carrying off goose by dog and by woman with distaff; + (11) winged animal; (12) hart, gorged and chained; (13) pelican + feeding young; (14) Jonah emerging from the whale; (15) Samson + carrying the gates; (16) head (modern)[100]; (17) (BISHOP'S THRONE) + Caleb and Joshua carrying the grapes and watched by Anakim. + + [Illustration: DESK-END OF MAYOR'S STALL.] + +Most of these misereres have exquisite conventional flowers (especially +roses) cut upon them in addition to the figure-subjects. The desks in +front of the stalls have rich finials, and their panelled fronts form +the backs of a lower tier of seats, the arms of which are supported each +on a square shaft set diamondwise. In front of these lower seats the +desks again have carved finials and panelled fronts, and on those +parallel with the Rood Screen the tracery is distinctly Flamboyant. The +finial before the stall of the Canon in Residence has a griffin attached +to it, and that in front of the Dean's stall a lion. Before both these +stalls the ends of the two tiers of desks are richly carved. The +Bishop's throne and Mayor's stall have each a canopied niche on the +exterior toward the east,[101] and two small apertures in the east side +to enable the occupant to see the altar, and in front of these two +stalls the ends of the two tiers of desks are again richly carved. The +Mayor's stall, which is wider than the others, was probably that of the +Wakeman, and attached to the finial in front is a grotesque ape, beneath +which the supporting shaft is of open work. The end of this desk +displays a shield charged with two keys in saltire, for the see of York. + + [Illustration: FINIAL IN FRONT OF THE BISHOP'S THRONE.] + +The Bishop's throne was originally occupied by the Archbishops of York. +The Jacobean canopy, which succeeded that of the fifteenth century, +comprised the space of two stalls, as did also the modern structure by +which it was itself succeeded and which is now in the Consistory Court. +The present canopy resembles those of the other stalls but is higher and +more elaborate. Upon the back of the throne inside is a small mitre. The +finial in front consists of an elephant carrying a man in his trunk, and +bearing on his back a castle filled with armed soldiery, and in front of +the elephant is a centaur (renewed), the shaft under which is again of +open-work. The end of this desk displays a large mitre above a shield +charged with the three stars of St. Wilfrid and supported by two angels, +between whom is a scroll with the date 1494. + + [Illustration: THE WEST END OF THE CHOIR.] + +=The Organ= occupied the top of the Rood Screen as early as 1408; but +doubtless all traces of the mediæval instrument disappeared at the +Reformation or in the Civil War. During the ascendancy of the Puritans +organ-building became a lost art, and at the Restoration it had to be +revived by foreigners, one of whom, Gerard Schmidt, nephew of 'Father +Schmidt,' built an organ for Ripon. This instrument was remodelled in +1833 by Booth of Leeds, and about 1878 the organ was rebuilt by T. C. +Lewis of Brixton, so that very little of Schmidt's work now remains. The +present case was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott. Over the doorway in the +screen is a projecting wooden gallery, in good imitation of the +Perpendicular manner. This gallery, which dates probably from the time +of Schmidt, was occupied until comparatively recently by the organist. +From the front of it projects a well-carved hand, which, worked by a +pedal, could be made to beat time--a very interesting piece of +mechanism, which again probably dates from the time of Schmidt. + + [Illustration: THE NORTH CHOIR AISLE.] + +=The North Choir Aisle.=--The floor of the choir is now a step above that +of the aisles, and it may be further remarked that in both of them the +first bay is somewhat dark, being walled up on three sides; that in the +second bay the archway toward the choir is occupied by organ-pipes; that +a bench table runs along the side wall and the east end, and that the +latter portion is adorned with panelling of the same design with the +reredos. + +In the north aisle the first three bays and a portion of the fourth are +Archbishop Roger's work, with the exception of the windows. The most +notable feature, as usual, is the vaulting-shafts, which spring from +above the string-course, and are in clusters of three. In each cluster +the central shaft is even thicker than the others, and the capitals, +which are carved with foliage of Norman character, share a common +five-sided abacus, while the bases are circular and rest on radiating +brackets smaller than themselves. These brackets, which are said to be +unique, have square corners and are moulded, but only on the front, and +their receding portion consists of a concave moulding containing a +convex block. In the north-west corner there is but a single shaft, +which rises from the bench-table, is banded at the string-course, and +has a square-topped capital. The vaulting has wall-ribs, +cross-springers, and groin-ribs, and is rather high-pitched. Upon the +cross-springers the mouldings are a large keeled round having on either +side a hollow between fillets, while the groin-ribs are moulded as in +the Markenfield Chapel. In the westernmost bay the vault has shown signs +of weakness (like so many other parts of the building adjacent to the +ill-fated tower) and has been strengthened by a cross-arch with a +half-arch abutting against it on the west side, both springing from +corbels. The corbels are quite in Archbishop Roger's manner, and +indicate that these strengthening arches, and therefore the blocking +walls from which they spring, are of his period. Moreover, the abacus +moulding of the first choir capital is continued as a string to the +shaft (which it encircles) in the north-west corner. This string is +interrupted by a rather inexplicable round arch in the west wall, and +has also been broken by the obtrusion of the Perpendicular tower-pier, +and by the blocked doorway which once opened from the Rood Screen. Below +this doorway (adjoining which there is a recess in the obtruding masonry +of the tower-pier) the wall shows traces of a gallery or staircase. On +the north wall the string-course, which is rather undercut, is original +as far as the end of the fourth bay, and marks the level to which the +sills of the original windows descended in steps.[102] In the present +windows, which descend to the old level, the mouldings of the arch are +stopped upon a set-off and the jamb is left plain. + + [Illustration: TRANSITIONAL VAULTING CORBEL. CHOIR AISLE.] + +In the two easternmost bays the Decorated string-course is of a +different pattern and at a slightly higher level; and here the jambs of +the windows are moulded with a hollow continued from the arch; while the +rim of the latter has upon it a large filleted round flanked by hollows +and supported on shafts with polygonal plinths and circular bases and +capitals, the latter enriched with foliage. The east window, however, is +not splayed, and has a deep rear-vault and a flat sill, while its rim is +more elaborately moulded and there are shafts to the inner as well as to +the outer arch. Except in the two easternmost windows on the north side, +the glass is very poor. The Decorated vaulting-shafts are again in +clusters of three, but rise from the bench-table and break the +string-course. They have polygonal plinths, and their capitals are +adorned with rather ill-cut foliage. In the north-east corner there is a +single shaft having a fillet, and adjoining it is a round-headed +doorway, which once opened into the angle staircase. In this aisle the +panelling is carried two bays westwards. + +It should be noticed that toward the aisle the choir arches have one +more order in the three Decorated bays than they have in the rest. In +the Decorated vaulting several chamfers are introduced among the +mouldings of the cross-springers, and both in these and in the +groin-ribs the most prominent moulding has a fillet. Otherwise the roof +roughly matches that of the older bays. The older and the later period +meet in the fourth bay from the west, where two of the groin-ribs have +the fillet, while the other two are without it. In the two easternmost +bays there are fine bosses at the crown of the vault. + +It is thought that the Shrine of St. Wilfrid was in the east end of this +aisle.[103] Unfortunately Leland's words _S. Wilfridi reliquiae sub arcu +prope magnum altare sepultae_ are too vague to decide its exact +position. + +=The South Choir Aisle.=--This aisle, in some respects, has been altered +more than the other, but the south wall is Archbishop Roger's work as +far as the end of the fourth bay, if not farther. About 14 feet from the +west end occurs that 'straight joint' in the masonry which shows the +separation of this aisle from the Mallory Chapel to have been an +afterthought; and a little further east a round-headed doorway, moulded +with the edge-roll and retaining a panelled door of some age, opens into +the Chapter-house. There was evidently a second and similar doorway a +few yards further on, but it has been blocked (doubtless when the +cross-wall was built at the back of it between the Chapter-house and +vestry), and a square-headed doorway has been made to open into the +latter. To the right of this entrance is a square-headed lavatory with a +projecting rectangular basin and a hole knocked through into the lobby +behind. This lavatory is of course an insertion, probably of the +fifteenth century; indeed the whole of this part of the wall has been +much repaired with limestone. The aisle is somewhat darkened by the fact +that its first four windows look into the Lady-loft. Fortunately the +three westernmost are original. They are as usual round-headed and +plainly splayed, and their sills descend to the string-course in steps. +Archbishop Roger's vaulting-shafts here are in better preservation than +in the other aisle. The original vaulting itself must of course have +been taken down when the three westernmost columns of the choir-arcade +were rebuilt, but in the reconstruction the old ribs seem to have been +used again. The groin-ribs have no room to descend upon the +Perpendicular choir-capitals, and end prematurely upon corbels carved +into faces. + +The westernmost bay of the aisle has been divided into two storeys, the +upper of which now contains part of the mechanism of the organ, but is +thought to have been once a chantry chapel. This curious chamber is +reached through a pointed doorway at the top of the Library staircase in +the south transept. Its roof is of course formed by the aisle-vault, +which originally extended, doubtless, as far westwards in this aisle as +in the other. The space, however, has been shortened by the great +thickness of a Perpendicular cross-arch, which, though its southern +respond obtrudes into the aisle below, is itself only visible from this +chamber. When, therefore, the vaulting here was rebuilt, it had to be +adapted to the shortened space, and the groin-ribs, which are very much +of Archbishop Roger's pattern, spring from Perpendicular corbels carved +into faces. The wall which separates this bay of the aisle from the +choir was said above, quite truly, to be Perpendicular, but on this its +southern face the masonry is apparently Archbishop Roger's. It is of +gritstone, and behind the organ-bellows there remains a corbel like +those of the cross-arch that props the vaulting in the corresponding bay +of the north aisle. The presumption therefore is that the original +vaulting was similarly propped here, and that the wall on which this +corbel remains was built to block or strengthen the first choir-arch, +and has survived the arch itself. To the west of the door a small square +window looks into the Mallory Chapel. + +In its eastern portion this aisle resembles the other, but the +bench-table here is only carried two bays westward, and the panelling +only one bay. In the fifth bay from the west the window is shortened to +about half the length of the others, and the string-course (which is of +Archbishop Roger's pattern) is correspondingly raised, possibly because +a longer window would have come below the springing of the vestry roof +(in the period when there was no Lady-loft), or possibly (though this is +less likely) to make room for the monument underneath, which, though +placed here by Sir Gilbert Scott, who found it in pieces, may have +occupied this position before. The monument is that of Moses Fowler, +first Dean of Ripon (d. 1608), and the effigy is not a favourable +example of English sculpture in the seventeenth century. Of the stained +glass, that in the last window on the south side is of some merit. The +capitals of the Decorated vaulting-shafts are better executed in this +aisle than in the other. Here, as there, the Decorated vaulting begins +in the middle of the fourth bay, where the fillet is again found upon +the two eastern groins only. At the south-east corner of this aisle are +the remains of a piscina--a fragment of a basin resting on a +shaft--which probably belonged to one of the many chantries. The +staircase at this corner affords the best access to the turret cell +described in the last chapter, and to the attic over the choir, where +the framing of the roof is a very remarkable specimen of modern joinery. + +On account of the alterations that have taken place at different periods +in the part of the Cathedral south of the choir, it will be well to +examine the crypt under the Chapter-house before examining either the +latter itself or the Library. + +=The Norman Crypt.=--A round-headed doorway in the west wall of the +Chapter-house admits to a staircase which, roofed with a sloping +barrel-vault and descending southwards, turns eastwards, under another +round arch, into the crypt. The age of this staircase is uncertain, but +its west wall is of course the east wall of Archbishop Roger's transept, +and its barrel-vault is under his buttresses which will be seen in the +Library. The crypt is divided by a cross-wall with a round arch in it +into two portions, each having the vaulting supported on pillars along +the middle; but half of the first and third bays of the western portion +has been walled up in modern times for burial-vaults. The width of the +crypt is about 18 feet and the total length about 68 feet. + + [Illustration: THE NORMAN CRYPT.] + +This part of the church was assigned by Walbran to Thomas of Bayeux +(1070-1100), and by Sir Gilbert Scott to Thurstan (1114-1141); but it is +quite possible that both these Archbishops, if not Oda or Oswald before +them, may have had a share in its construction. Much of the work at any +rate belongs to a Norman church which preceded that of Archbishop Roger. + +In the vaulting (which by-the-way has had to be propped at some period +by two rude pointed limestone arches at the west end) the chamfered +groin-ribs seem to have been added later for strength, probably when the +storey above was remodelled; but the vaulting itself, with its square +pillars, its plain round arches from pillar to pillar and from pillar to +walls, and without ribs upon the groins (such having been its original +condition, apparently), seems pure Norman work.[104] The traces of +painted decoration remaining upon both pillars and vaulting are probably +original. Along the walls the arches spring, not from corbels, but from +short strings of the same pattern with the impost-moulding on the +pillars--a pattern not of very early character. The north and south +walls must, perhaps, be as old at least as the vaulting which rests +against them; nor does the former wall seem quite on the same plane with +the portion of Archbishop Roger's choir foundations visible outside +(between the present choir and the apse), he having perhaps built his +wall against this one. The large limestone buttress against this wall, +and another buttress which rises from the east wall but is hidden by the +vaulting, were added in the Decorated period, and can be followed up +through the two storeys above. They terminate in the pinnacles of the +flying buttresses that span the choir-aisle. The south wall may perhaps +be definitely placed somewhat early in the Norman period, since the +windows are splayed both internally and externally.[105] Of equal age, +probably, is the cross-wall (which, to judge from the mass of masonry +that spans the present passage of communication between the two parts of +the crypt, is very thick) since allowance is made for its thickness in +the spacing of the windows.[106] It is at least as old as the vaulting, +whose bays are arranged to suit it; and moreover the half-pillar against +its eastern side has never been a whole pillar, as the capital plainly +shows. This last remark applies also to the half-pillar against the +extreme west wall, which therefore may perhaps be taken as marking the +westward limit of the crypt at the time when the vaulting was +constructed; while the east wall (excluding the apse) probably marks +the contemporary eastward limit--if, that is to say, the eastern portion +of the vaulting has not undergone alteration. That eastern portion is +clearly planned for an apse or chancel of some kind. The arch that rises +eastward from the last pillar is stopped half-way in its course by a +cross-arch opening into the apse, and the two last groin-ribs are +carried from the pillar to the abutments of the cross-arch, being +obliged by this contraction of span to form the only pointed arches in +the whole vaulting. Such an arrangement--a 'nave' terminating in an +apse, and at the same time divided by a row of pillars along the +middle--is somewhat unusual. The present apse is of uncertain date. Part +of it may be Norman. Its window indeed is of early Norman type: yet its +wall seems of softer stone than the rest of the crypt,[107] and the +string which runs along the east wall of the latter and round the +responds of the cross-arch is there broken off: moreover, the cross-arch +itself is clearly not of the same date or construction with the two ribs +of the apse-roof, which ribs may possibly be of the same date as the +groin-ribs; and lastly, it will be remembered that the shafts on the +exterior had something of the appearance of Archbishop Roger's work. The +floor of the apse is raised on two steps, but there is no trace of an +altar. + +It will be noticed that at the south-east corner there is no apsidal +chamber to correspond to that in the storey above. There is, however, an +unsavoury hole from which have been extracted a number of skulls. +Indeed, this crypt formerly contained huge piles of bones, which had +probably been brought here by the sixteenth century builders from the +foundations of their new nave-aisles,[108] and which were removed in +1865 to a pit in the graveyard. Among the stone relics which have found +a resting-place here, the most interesting are a sarcophagus, the head +of a cross of Saxon character, and a group of coffin-lids near the north +wall. Most of these last are perhaps of the thirteenth century.[109] At +the west end of the crypt is preserved Blore's reredos. + +=The Chapter-house= is 22 feet wide from wall to wall and 35 feet long, +but it was evidently once open to the vestry, and the dividing wall, +which with its bench-table is of limestone, was erected in the Decorated +or in the Perpendicular period. In both rooms, as also in the storey +above, the original floor was perhaps of stone or tiles, but if so, it +has been covered or superseded by wooden planking. + +The Chapter-house is marked as such by the stone benches which are +carried in two tiers along the north and south walls. On the north side +the upper tier is interrupted by the piers of an arcading of plainly +chamfered round arches, the central bay of which contains a fine +mediæval cupboard with iron scroll-work. The doorway into the choir is +very curiously treated on this side. It is surmounted first by a lintel, +the stones above which are wedges forming a 'flat arch,' and then by a +round arch so high as to run up behind the westernmost arch of the +arcading. The very fine vaulting, although some have ascribed it to the +Early English period, belongs more probably to the time of Archbishop +Roger. Unlike that over the choir-aisles and the Markenfield chapel, +however, it has all its arches rounded, and is without wall-ribs. It +springs from five-sided corbels which, like the corbels of the old nave, +are finished off with scrolls, and which on the north side are placed +against the piers of the arcading; and in the middle of the room it is +supported on two cylindrical and monolithic pillars. The bases and +capitals of these are circular, and the former are almost pure Early +English, the plinth having a round moulding at the bottom, and the base +proper consisting of two round mouldings separated by a hollow, with one +or two beads or fillets. The capitals are less advanced in style, as the +part just above the bell is not moulded and the abacus retains the +square edge. All the eight ribs that rise from each pillar resemble the +groin-ribs in the crypt. + + [Illustration: THE CHAPTER-HOUSE.] + +The arcade against the north wall is continued in the vestry, and it has +been thought that it is Norman, and that its arches were once open.[110] +But had this ever been the case the piers would surely have been +narrower, and would have had capitals. Indeed, it is doubtful whether +the arcade is Norman at all: for if it were, its bays might be expected +to agree in span and number with the (presumably Norman) bays of the +crypt, whereas there are five bays there and only four here occupying +the same total length. Secondly, the set-off on which its piers stand is +probably Archbishop Roger's work, as will appear later; and the piers +themselves seem to be of the same construction with the wall behind +them, which again is almost certainly his. Moreover, it is significant +that the arches agree in span with those of his choir, and that their +piers are back to back with his vaulting-shafts in the choir-aisle. +Lastly, these piers correspond in width with his buttresses on the north +side of the choir. In fact it is difficult to resist the conclusion that +they are Archbishop Roger's south choir buttresses in disguise,[111] and +that the arches between them were thrown across merely to form a +straight boundary for the vaulting, and to carry a ledge which (when +there was no storey above) might support the external roof. The piers +indeed are carried up, with a 'straight joint' on either side, above the +springing of the arches, and the latter are constructed as if they had +been let into the piers as an after-thought.[112] + +As the bays of this arcade, to which the vaulting is adapted, do not +agree with those of the crypt, it follows that the two cylindrical +pillars here do not stand exactly over the pillars below--which +strengthens the presumption that the vaulting there is of earlier date, +and that its groin-ribs were added later for strength: nor does the +dividing wall here stand exactly over the cross-wall below, so that the +strain on the crypt roof must be considerable. + +The two round windows are very widely splayed, and the uppermost part of +their rim has a different curvature from the rest, as if they had once +been straight-sided and round-headed. In their present form they are of +uncertain date. The most conspicuous instance of the employment of this +rare type of window--viz., the nave of Southwell Cathedral--is pure +Norman, but the received opinion ascribes these Ripon examples to the +time of Archbishop Roger, and it will be observed that their position +harmonizes with the bays of the vaulting, which is presumably his, but +has no relation externally to the spacing of the windows of the crypt, +which, moreover, have an external splay. The third window was once +circular like the rest, for a portion of the rim may still be traced; +but as it would otherwise have been bisected by the cross-wall, the +later builders have blocked half of it and squared the rest, splaying it +at the same time like a squint. The date of the south wall itself is +doubtful. It is thinner here than in either the vestry or the crypt. + + [Illustration: The Resurrection. + St. Wilfrid. + The Coronation of the Virgin. + ANCIENT SCULPTURES PRESERVED IN THE CHAPTER-HOUSE.] + +Near the modern hearth is a case of curiosities found about the church, +among them several fourteenth or fifteenth century reliefs in alabaster, +representing the Resurrection, the Coronation of the Virgin, the story +of Herodias, and the figure of a bishop, probably St. Wilfrid, with a +curious P-shaped implement on his arm. + +At the north end of the cross-wall it will be observed that the blocked +doorway noticed in the choir-aisle was not round-headed on this side, +but segmental. The square-headed doorway in the cross-wall itself is +modern, and opens into a lobby, the opposite side of which is formed by +the Decorated buttress whose lower portion was noticed in the crypt, +while on the left is the doorway into the choir, and on the right +another square-headed doorway, opening into the vestry. + +=The Vestry.=--Before the erection of the cross-wall the vaulting +evidently extended eastward continuously to the apse, which still +contains a fragment of it with two corbels, while further traces, +including another corbel, may be seen upon the south wall. Its removal +may have taken place either when the two Decorated buttresses were +introduced, or at the erection of the Lady-loft, or possibly much later; +but was doubtless contemporaneous with the building of the cross-wall, +which was evidently intended not only as a partition, but as a 'stop' +for the portion of the vaulting that was retained. The present ceiling +was put up by Sir Gilbert Scott, who, it is said, would have restored +the vaulting had funds allowed. Of the buttresses, that adjoining the +doorway has in its front, as well as in the side toward the lobby, a +small trefoiled and moulded recess. These two buttresses are built +against the piers of the arcading, part of the last arch of which is +visible behind the cupboard. + +In the same cupboard may be observed, scarcely above the floor, a wide +stone ledge with a bold moulding worked along the front. If the floor +can ever have been lower than it is now, this ledge may have been used +as a bench. In itself, it is of course the set-off on which the piers of +the arcading stand. Now it will be remembered that the portion of +Archbishop Roger's wall-base visible from the graveyard (between the +choir and the apse) has at the top a wide set-off or slope. This ledge +in the vestry, then, seems to be level with the base of that slope, +where moreover there is a moulding similar to that found here; also the +front of the ledge here seems to be flush with Archbishop Roger's +masonry there. + +If, then, the work there is his,[113] the above considerations afford +some reason surely for the belief that this set-off on which the piers +of the arcading stand, and perhaps also the uppermost courses of the +wall beneath it, are Archbishop Roger's work. Nor is it improbable that +this set-off once had a slope, of which that above-mentioned was the +continuation, and out of which the buttresses (_i.e._, the arcade piers) +rose after the manner of those on the other side of the choir--in fact, +that Archbishop Roger intended to make this wall the exterior of his +church by demolishing the crypt, vestry, and Chapter-house; and that it +was only after some such idea had been conceived and abandoned, that the +arches were thrown across from buttress to buttress, the vaulting +constructed against them, this ledge formed (by cutting away the slope +of the set-off), and the stone benches carried along the wall of the +Chapter-house. + +The arch above the ledge has been mutilated to make way for a modern +spiral staircase of wood leading to the Library. Half-way up this +staircase there remain upon the wall and upon the buttress (if it may +now be so called) portions of a string-course which may be taken perhaps +as additional evidence for the theory that Archbishop Roger at first +intended to demolish the vestry and Chapter-house.[114] It does not, +however, match the external string on the other side of the choir, but +resembles the internal string in the choir-aisles. + +The single window in the south wall is round-headed internally, and is +partially splayed on one side and not at all on the other: indeed the +wall here appears to have undergone some alteration. In this room this +wall is of the same thickness with the corresponding wall of the crypt, +which is not the case in the Chapter-house. + +East of the above window a square-headed doorway opens into the apsidal +chamber enclosed by the corner buttress. This curious little chamber was +probably a sacristy or treasury. It has a recess in the west side, and +seems to have communicated directly with the graveyard. In the roof is a +slab which has a small cross graven upon it, and which may have formed +part of an altar. + +The projection at the south side of the apse was probably one of the +responds of an arch against which the vaulting abutted, as in the crypt. +Under the east window the curve of the wall has been flattened, probably +to afford a better back for the altar, of which the step remains. On the +north side is an aumbry, with a recess adjoining it in the side of the +buttress; and on the south side is a smaller aumbry, and a piscina with +a projecting basin and a semicircular head, the latter cut apparently in +one stone. This again is probably one of the earliest piscinæ in +existence. The curve of the apse is wider in this storey than below, +which partly accounts for the fact that the adjoining Decorated buttress +protrudes here into the room. There is also a difference in the stone +used, and in several other particulars, _e.g._, the two windows here +have very little external splay--all of which may or may not indicate a +difference in date between the apse in this storey and in the crypt. The +hand of Archbishop Roger seems traceable here not only in the external +shafts and corbel-table, but also in the trefoiling (externally) of the +east window. The two vaulting-corbels at any rate seem to be his, as +well as the piscina. The upper part of the apse has lost its +semicircular shape and been squared, and some masonry has been thrown +across from its wall to the Decorated buttress, the motive having been +perhaps to make a better support for the rectangular east end of the +Lady-loft. The oak table in this room was probably the Communion-table +of the church during the period following the Reformation. + +The question now arises how long the vestry and Chapter-house have +served their present purpose. Of the arrangements in this storey before +the time of Archbishop Roger nothing can be recovered with certainty, +but the (presumably Norman) wall between the two parts of the crypt +suggests by its thickness that it was intended to support a division of +some kind above. After being remodelled in the time of Archbishop Roger, +however, this upper storey was evidently open from end to end, and its +apsidal termination, containing both piscina and altar-step, indicates +that it was a chapel: indeed, as has been well suggested, it was +probably the original Lady Chapel. Nevertheless, in an age when every +action of life was invested with a religious character, the western part +may have been used for capitular purposes even without a dividing wall, +and the gritstone benches, so significant of those purposes, are +doubtless of considerable age. The statement in the old Records that the +trial of 1228[115] was held _apud Rypon in Aulâ Capituli_ is definite +enough to show that there was a recognised place for Chapter meetings; +nor is it improbable that the reference may be to the present building. +Some doubt is thrown upon this conclusion by a proclamation of +Archbishop Lee in 1537 sequestrating the Common Fund on the ground that +"the Chapter-house is ruinous in walls, roof, and stonework generally, +so that it is likely to fall." These words, it has been thought, can +never have been applicable to the present Chapter-house, and it has been +suggested therefore that there may have been another which has +disappeared. Archbishop Lee's words, however, are perhaps not +irreconcilable with the present building. They may refer to the serious +settlement which necessitated the huge Perpendicular buttress at the +corner of what is now the vestry. There is, it is true, some difficulty +in the fact that it is not the vestry but the Chapter-house which is +mentioned, and in the allusion to a dilapidated roof (_tectura_); but it +is conceivable that there was as yet no dividing wall, that the vaulting +of what is now the vestry was still standing, that it had been injured +by the settlement above-mentioned--in fact that its removal and the +erection of the dividing wall took place in the time of Archbishop Lee. +His direction for repairs may also account for the presence of limestone +in the north wall of the Chapter-house, and for the propping of the +vault at the west end of the crypt.[116] As has already been shown, the +history of the vestry is bound up with that of the Chapter-house. At +what period services ceased to be held at the altar in the apse, it is +difficult to say; perhaps on the completion of a Lady Chapel above, +perhaps on the erection of the dividing wall,[117] perhaps through the +advent of the Reformation. At any rate, it was probably not before this +part of the church had ceased to be used for services that it began to +be recognised as a robing-room. There is an allusion to a recognised +vestry in Leland, and very possibly the present room is meant; if so, it +would seem from his account to have been used also as a library. But the +fact remains that the church possesses no vestry except what is +obviously a disused chapel. + +=The Lady-chapel= or Lady-loft is 23 feet 3 inches wide, and 68 feet +long.[118] Its west and north sides, being formed by what was once the +exterior of the church, display not only windows and buttresses, but +also a string-course with gargoyles. From the west wall projects one of +Archbishop Roger's buttresses, terminating in a slope, between the two +blocked windows of the Mallory Chapel, which resemble the aisle windows +of the other transept. The window on the right, mutilated by the +insertion of the doorway, has lost its shafts, and retains only their +capitals. The other window is partly cut off by the south wall, and is +now a cupboard. + +In the north wall, the first three bays are Archbishop Roger's, and the +windows resemble in their treatment the two just described, and are +separated from each other by two buttresses which terminate, like those +on the opposite side of the choir, in two slopes one close below the +other. There is a third buttress, terminating in a single slope, at the +angle formed with the transept. The Decorated window in the fourth bay +is treated in the same manner as the rest of those in the eastern +portion of the choir-aisles, and the Decorated buttresses which flank it +are those which have been followed up from the crypt. The rich +string-course or cornice along the top of this and the west wall +corresponds with that on the other side of the church. The gargoyles are +of course Decorated, and so is the string-course itself, eastwards at +any rate of the second gargoyle on the north wall, for here one of the +mouldings has a fillet upon it. Whether the rest of the string is +Archbishop Roger's work or not, it is difficult to decide. + +The large windows in the south and east walls are surmounted by square +labels ending in heads. Above the modern fireplace is the defaced +monument of Anthony Higgin, second Dean (d. 1624), the founder of the +present library; and further east, under the small lancet window (which +is filled with fragments of stained glass), is an arched recess of +considerable size, and a trefoiled piscina, each surmounted by a gable +moulding with a finial. The piscina probably belonged to the chantry of +Our-Lady-in-the-Lady-loft. A large stone bracket, supported by a +grotesque figure, projects from the east wall, and the east window is +bright with armorial bearings of benefactors of the church. This glass, +which is mostly of the eighteenth century, was once in the great window +of the choir. The north side of the recess in which the east window is +set, is partially splayed outwards to join the last Decorated buttress, +which with its neighbour have been cut back in this storey to the plane +of the pinnacles above--doubtless when this Lady-loft was added. + +The present pinewood ceiling was put up by Sir Gilbert Scott, but most +of the carved angle-pieces in the panels came from an older roof of oak. + + [Illustration: THE LIBRARY.] + +The history of the library begins with the MS. of the Gospels given by +St. Wilfrid; and the ascription to him of various other gifts, which +occurs in the writings of Peter of Blois (a Canon of Ripon in the +twelfth century), implies at any rate that there was a library when +Peter wrote. In 1466 money was bequeathed by William Rodes, a chaplain, +_ad fabricam cujusdam librarii in ecclesiâ construendi_, words which may +refer to the screening off for books of a portion of this chapel; but +in Leland's time books were apparently kept in the vestry, though it is +not certain that the present vestry is meant.[119] Except a few MSS. of +Chapter Acts, Fabric Rolls, etc., none of the books now here are known +for certain to have belonged to the church before the Reformation;[120] +indeed the present collection began with the bequest of his books by +Dean Higgin in 1624. The books were in this chapel in 1817, but in 1859 +they were at the Deanery. There are now over 5000 volumes, including +seven MSS., of which one of the most notable is the Ripon Psalter +(1418), containing the special offices for St. Wilfrid, and many printed +books of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, among them two fine +Caxtons. Many of the books have beautiful old bindings in stamped +leather. The most interesting items in the collection are exposed in a +glass case at the east end of the room.[121] Near the opposite end is +another case containing the bones recently dug up under the site of the +mediæval altar in the Saxon crypt. + + [Illustration: THE OLD CHAPEL OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE'S HOSPITAL. + (From a pen-drawing by the author.)] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[55] This is what was meant by saying in Chapter II. that in each tower +one side is older than the others. + +[56] In the interior of these towers the courses run level with those of +Archbishop Roger's work--a fact which has been taken as indicating that +the lowest portion of the towers internally (but not, of course, the +tower arches) may be actually his work. The theory that his west front +was flanked by towers or chambers of some kind is not improbable. + +[57] A triforium is properly a gallery, open to the church, between the +internal and external roofs of the aisles, but here there were no +aisles, and the gallery or passage is in the thickness of the wall. + +[58] This term will be used wherever the usual term 'vaulting-shaft' is +inapplicable. + +[59] The earth here has apparently been brought in from outside. Can it +have come from some sacred spot abroad? The original floor, if not +earthen, may possibly have rested on the set-off. + +[60] It has been suggested, however, that they may be relics of a feast +buried here to defile the site of the altar. The bones in question are +now in the Lady-loft. + +[61] With one of the deposits was found a brass bodkin of the type used +in the sixteenth century. + +[62] It was Walbran, again, who gave these reasons for assigning the +crypt to Wilfrid. Before his time it was thought to have been built +during the Roman Occupation. + +[63] See article by Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite, V.P.S.A., in _Archæol. +Journ._, vol. xxxvii. p. 364. + +[64] A _confessio_, it need hardly be said, has nothing to do with a +confessional. The word is probably to be explained as meaning the tomb +of one who had been a witness or _confessor_ of the Faith. + +[65] In making excavations for laying the wind-trunk of the organ the +exterior of this wall was laid bare and appeared extremely rough. This, +however, does not prove that it had never been meant to be seen. It may +have been faced with smooth stones, which, just because they were +exposed, attracted attention, and were removed by later masons for use +elsewhere.--_Mr. Micklethwaite._ + +[66] Among the five known Saxon crypts (all of the _confessio_ type) +Ripon and Hexham alone show this peculiarity. + +[67] See _Proceedings Soc. Antiq._, 16th June 1892. + +[68] In making the above-mentioned excavation in 1891, Mr. Micklethwaite +found what was presumably the floor of the body of Wilfrid's church. It +was of plaster 3 inches thick, and was 1 foot 7 inches below the floor +of the present Cathedral. + +[69] The explanation of the crypt as a _confessio_ is due to Mr. +Micklethwaite, and is ably set forth, with its consequences, in +_Archæol. Journ._, vol. xxxix. p. 347. + +[70] The square termination of the crypt is in favour of a square +presbytery; while his Roman proclivities are perhaps slightly in favour +of an apse, and of aisles. + +[71] _Surtees Soc._, vol. lxxiv. p. 83. + +[72] It is certainly true that numerous white _tesseræ_ of Italian +character, such as Wilfrid might have used, have been dug up on this +site (_Murray's Cathedrals_, Pt. 1, p. 172, n. 1). They may, however, +mark the site of the domestic buildings and not of the church. Or they +may be relics of the Roman Occupation. + +[73] By Walbran in _Proceedings Archæol. Inst._, York Vol. 1846 (pub. +1848). + +[74] There is an interesting suggestion in _Murray's Cathedrals_, Pt. 1, +p. 172, n. 2, that the church of which the crypt formed a part was built +not by Wilfrid but by Eadhead, who, as the supplanter of Wilfrid, would +probably be excluded from Wilfrid's monastery, but who may, +nevertheless, have employed his workmen. The western position of the +altar, however, is against placing the work as late as the episcopate of +Eadhead. + +[75] The suggestion is Mr. Micklethwaite's. _Altare_ would, of course, +mean the high altar in the presbytery above. + +[76] A third font (modern) formerly stood in the north-west tower. + +[77] It is curious that the same story should be told of Roger de +Mowbray, founder of Byland Abbey in this same county. (_Murray's +Cathedrals._) + +[78] Another suggestion is that the subject has some connection with the +history of the Disobedient Prophet. + +[79] _Surtees Soc._, vol. lxiv. p. 92. + +[80] But for the label, these arms resemble those of John of Eltham +(brother of Edward III.), who died without issue in 1334. + +[81] It is pleasant to find in the church several indications of aid +received from the other great ecclesiastical foundation in the +neighbourhood. + +[82] Taken by itself, the coarseness of the work in the tower and +transept would suggest that these parts were later, and not earlier, +than the nave. But (not to mention documentary evidence), if they were +later, then the Rood Screen must be later also, which can hardly be the +case, the stalls against it being dated 1489. + +[83] Probably (as Walbran suggested) with money subscribed for the +tower, the completion of which was perhaps the less pressing necessity. + +[84] In the large mediæval churches there was usually an altar at the +east end of the nave. + +[85] It may have been put here at the time of the building of the +present nave, than which it is perhaps slightly earlier. + +[86] The Markenfields were one of the principal families in the +neighbourhood from the fourteenth century onwards, until in the reign of +Elizabeth they ruined themselves by taking part in the Rising in the +North. Their ancient moated Manor-house, in which both the knights +sculptured on these altar tombs must have lived, is still standing, +about three miles from Ripon, towards Harrogate. + +[87] This aisle was also the site of the chantry of St. Andrew. + +[88] In these pages this term is used to describe round mouldings which +are brought to an edge without actually having a fillet upon them. + +[89] By Mr. Francis Bond. + +[90] In spite of Sir G. Scott's conjectural plan. (See p. 67.) + +[91] It is possible that the screen there mentioned may be the present +structure, or may have been incorporated into it. In 1408 the accident +to the tower had not yet occurred, and the piers that now flank the +screen had therefore not yet been built. There is a not very credible +story that the present screen came from Fountains Abbey. + +[92] This peculiarity is found at some other places--_e.g._, St. Cross, +Winchester. + +[93] This column and that opposite to it on the north side have been +regarded as entirely Decorated imitations of Archbishop Roger's columns, +but surely without sufficient reason. + +[94] See also the account of the East End in Chapter II., pp. 60-63. + +[95] Two holes have been drilled through the rear-vault from the attic +above, but for what purpose it is hard to say. + +[96] It appears from the Fabric Rolls that a new high altar was begun in +1522. The work seems to have lasted four years, and apparently included +a carved wooden reredos. + +[97] _Subtus altare_ suggests a crypt, but there seems to have been no +crypt under the choir. Perhaps the _altare_ meant may have stood over +the Saxon or the Norman crypt. + +[98] Mention may be here made of the Communion plate, some of which is +as old as 1676 and has upon it representations of the church, very +incorrect but showing the spires; also of the mace which is now borne +before the Dean, and which has been assigned to the fifteenth century +and may possibly have been once borne before the Wakeman. Upon the top +has been engraved an _Agnus Dei_, the cognizance of the church. + +[99] A piece of woodwork, however, which was in the north aisle at the +time of the last restoration, is said to have borne the date 1397. + +[100] The old miserere was probably removed when the Throne was made to +comprise two stalls. (_See_ p. 111.) + +[101] It has been supposed that these niches were for figures of St. +Peter and St. Wilfrid, and that the same was the case with the two +niches which form the ends of the lower tier in the Rood Screen, and +also with those which flank the west doors. It may also have been the +case with the two eastward projections (if there were two) from the +western piers of the Central Tower. + +[102] Below the string-course there is a certain amount of limestone in +the wall, but this hardly accounts for the language of a Chapter minute +which records a meeting in 1546 to consider the repair of certain +_defectus et ruinositates apertae tam campanilis quam muri lapidei +insulae borealis_. + +[103] Above the shrine there hung, apparently, a gilded crescent like +that above the site of St. Thomas's shrine at Canterbury. The bones were +enclosed in a splendid coffer with poles attached, and on solemn +occasions this 'feretory,' besides being carried in procession, was +sometimes placed under a tent in the fields. It was also very +elaborately renewed in 1520 (_Surtees Soc._, vol. lxxxi. p. 204, n., +etc.). Portions of the shrine exist, perhaps, in the alabaster +bas-reliefs in the Chapter-house, as well as in the base of the railing +in the north aisle of the nave. + +[104] It may, however, be later than the main walls. + +[105] The lower portion of this wall seems to be of an even earlier type +of masonry than the upper. A somewhat similar difference between the +upper and lower portions may be observed in the east and north walls +also. + +[106] The late doorway approached by four steps, east of the cross-wall, +occupies the place of one of the windows. + +[107] Three kinds of stone occur in this crypt: a sandstone, a fine +gritstone, and a coarser and harder gritstone. + +[108] There are numerous entries in the Fabric Rolls, from 1512 onwards, +relating to expenses 'for the carriage of the bones.' + +[109] One has a sword graven upon it, another a pair of shears (closed), +another a book and a chalice, the latter slightly tipped, while a +gravestone lying in the apse has upon it a dagger, and a pair of shears +open. + +[110] Since it is probable that the axis of the church has always, at +all periods, passed over the Saxon crypt, the Chapter-house and vestry +can hardly have been the south aisle of the choir before the time of +Archbishop Roger (as Walbran supposed), for they are too far south; +indeed, they would seem rather to have been a chapel thrown out from +such an aisle. + +[111] In the storey above will be found certain buttresses which are +clearly his, which stand exactly over these piers, and of which the +latter are probably merely the lower portions. + +[112] The supposition that the arches were added afterwards would +explain why the westernmost of them cuts off the top of the arch over +the door. + +[113] That it is his can hardly be doubted. The moulding and slope at +the top resemble those which characterize the wall-base throughout his +work. + +[114] _Murray's Cathedrals_, Pt. 1, p. 180. + +[115] See Chapter I. + +[116] A view of the crypt as it was before the removal of the bones +represents the vaulting as propped also by certain pillars of +Perpendicular character. These may have been removed by Sir Gilbert +Scott. + +[117] _I.e._, if that wall was not erected contemporaneously with the +said Lady Chapel. + +[118] For its date see Chapters I. and II. + +[119] Can Leland mean that the books, then as now, were in the +Lady-loft, and that part of it was used as a vestry? + +[120] In 1567 a number of books were found in 'a vawte' of the church, +where they had been concealed for safety (_Surtees Soc._, vol. lxxxi. p. +344). + +[121] For a full account of this interesting library, see the monograph +by the Rev. Canon Fowler, F.S.A., of Durham, by whom the books were +arranged in 1872. A copy is kept in the room. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +OTHER OLD BUILDINGS IN RIPON. + + +=The Deanery=, a stone house with two gabled wings, stands opposite to the +north transept. It was built in or about 1625. The front bears the royal +arms, and the hall contains some paintings of the kings and queens of +England, which are more curious than valuable, and are probably of no +very great age. Before the house is an ancient stone wall with +strongly-marked base, gable coping, and a doorway whose trefoil head was +apparently not made for its present position. This may perhaps be part +of Abbot Huby's wall, or of the boundary-wall of either the Palace or +the Bedern. + +Near the south-west tower is a fine red-brick house which doubtless +remembers the Georges, or even Queen Anne. It has all the air of a +prebendal residence, but if it was ever connected with the church, that +connection has long ceased. + +Another red-brick house of some age, adjoining the picturesque ascent +from High St. Agnesgate to the south transept, was the Canons' Residence +up to 1859, when was bought the present Residence near the north-east +corner of the graveyard. + +High St. Agnesgate contains several interesting buildings, foremost +among which is =St. Anne's Hospital=,[122] formerly called 'The Maidens' +Due' (Maison de Dieu), with its interesting ruined chapel. This is the +only one of the three hospitals which was never affiliated to the +Collegiate Church. The date of its origin has been placed shortly before +1438, in which year a chantry was founded in its chapel. The hospital +foundation was for four poor men and four poor women, and there were +also two beds for 'casuals'; and the little community was under the +charge of a priest. There was apparently no endowment. The domestic +portion of the building was pulled down in 1869. Though it had been +divided into cottages some time before that date, the original +arrangements have been recovered from an old document and from certain +indications that had survived in the fabric itself. Joined to the west +end of the chapel was a sort of nave, divided down the middle by a +partition, on one side of which were the beds for the men, on the other +those for the women, while at the west end were two rooms for the +priest. This 'nave' was probably open to the chapel, as the large size +of the western arch of the latter seems to indicate, and possibly the +infirmer inmates could attend the service without leaving their +beds.[123] + +To pass to the chapel itself--a window in the north wall has been +blocked with masonry, upon which is a shield of arms, thought to be +those of Sir Solomon Swale of South Stainley, and surmounted by a +Maltese cross with the letters S.S. and the date 1654 upon it. The west +gable has once been crowned by a bell-cote, and attached to the +south-west corner of the chapel are the remains of an arched doorway. +The western arch of the building, curiously enough, is not in the middle +of the wall. It is recessed and chamfered, and rests upon two +semi-cylindrical responds, whose rather curious capitals do not follow +the form of the shaft, but are triple and rectangular. The chapel +internally is 20 feet 10 inches long and 11 feet 6 inches wide, and is +not at right angles to its western wall, but inclines considerably +toward the south. In the middle of the entrance is an octagonal basin, +supported on a pedestal and having a shield on each of its sides. This +is thought to have been a stoup for holy water. It is not, perhaps, in +its original position, and the pedestal does not seem to belong to it. +Opposite to the blocked window already mentioned, which has an aumbry +east of it, there is a late square-headed window of two lights, whose +arches do not reach quite up to the lintel, but are connected with it by +short perpendiculars. East of this is a piscina with projecting +semi-octagonal basin, trefoil head, and ogee hood, and with a small +square window above and to the left of it. The stone slab on two stone +supports against the east wall is probably the original altar, and +tradition says that the ransom of a Scottish prince was paid down upon +it. On either side of the altar is a stone bracket, that on the north +side bearing a shield of arms.[124] The east window, which is blocked, +is divided into two lights, and the head is almost filled by a large +quatrefoil, of which the uppermost and lowermost foils are ogees. This +window, and the piers and capitals of the western arch, give the +impression that the chapel is of a date earlier than that usually +assigned for the foundation of the hospital. The modern cottages are +inhabited by eight women. + + [Illustration: THE CHAPEL OF ST. ANNE'S HOSPITAL. + (From a pen-drawing by the author.)] + +Between St. Anne's Hospital and Bondgate Green Bridge stands the =Thorp +Prebendal House=, now divided into several dwellings. Whether its +existing fabric is as old as the Reformation or not, this was the site +upon which dwelt the Canons of the mediæval prebend of Thorp. In 1391 +the hall of the then existing house was used for casting several bells +for the Minster, and here, in later days, as Canon of Thorp, lived +Marmaduke Bradley. The house is said to have been sold by Edward VI. to +the Earl of Cumberland, and to have subsequently sheltered Mary Queen of +Scots, James I, and Charles I. It is best seen from the adjoining +bridge, whence its plastered walls, irregular gables, and stone roof +form a picturesque foreground to the Cathedral. Of the dwellings into +which it is now divided, the third from the bridge contains the grand +staircase, which has twisted skeleton balusters. + +East of St. Anne's Hospital, there are two more old houses, one of +which, known as =St. Agnes' Lodge=,[125] is of considerable interest. The +body of it, long and low, with a high-pitched roof and with a massive +chimney-stack buttressing one end, is said to be of the time of Henry +VII., but derives much of its 'character' from the comparatively modern +windows, which resemble the portholes of a ship. A wing added in the +seventeenth century, with quaint curvilinear gable, projects into the +garden behind. Within the house is a square hall, having above the +fireplace some carving and a painted panel of the burning of London in +1666. There is also a good oak staircase, and in the upper storey are +several quaint features, including a cupboard that may have served for a +hiding-place, and two 'powdering-closets' in which ladies' hair, or +men's wigs, could be powdered in the eighteenth century. But the part of +the house most interesting architecturally is the attics, where the +framing of the king-post roof is extremely massive, while the floor is +of _concrete_.[126] One of the roof-beams in the wing bears the date +1693. This house disputes with the Thorp Prebendal House the honour of +having sheltered Mary Queen of Scots on her way from Bolton Castle to +Tutbury, and it is said that it was during her sojourn at Ripon that she +addressed an appeal to Queen Elizabeth and received an offer of marriage +from the Duke of Norfolk. St. Agnes' Lodge claims also to have been a +temporary home of Turner, at the time when he was illustrating +Whitaker's _History of Craven_ and _History of Richmondshire_. Whether +this house or its immediately western neighbour were ever prebendal +residences it is now difficult to say. + +Two old gabled houses remain in the Market-place, and one of them, now a +basket-shop, is said to have been the residence of Hugh Ripley, last +Wakeman and first Mayor of Ripon. + +At the north end of Stonebridgegate, and not far from the Ure, stands +the =Hospital of St. Mary Magdalene=, sometimes called 'The Maudlins.' It +was founded by Archbishop Thurstan (1114-1141) for secular brethren and +sisters, and one chaplain. The brethren and sisters were not merely to +benefit by the charity themselves, but were to minister to lepers and +blind priests born within the Liberty of Ripon, a certain number of whom +were received into the Hospital. Lepers from outside the Liberty were +entitled to a night's lodging: so also apparently were any other +strangers or mendicant clergy who might be passing through the town. On +St. Mary Magdalene's day there was a dole of food to the poor. A second +chaplain was subsequently added by the benefaction of one William de +Homelyn. At some period, apparently after 1241, the character of the +foundation was changed by another Archbishop, whose name is not known. +The brethren and sisters disappeared, and the staff consisted henceforth +of a Master and one chaplain, or sometimes two. The Master was appointed +by the Archbishop, and was generally a clerk, though sometimes only in +acolyte's Orders. In 1334 one John Warrener, of Studley Roger, founded +here a chantry of two if not three priests. Thus there may have been no +less than six clergy attached to this small chapel; but the number was +not kept up, and at the Reformation there were, besides the Master, only +the two priests of Warrener's foundation. The Hospital continued to +minister to blind priests, and also to lepers until leprosy died out. +The lepers' portion of the building was demolished about 1350. In +1546-7 the inmates were 'five poor people.' All traces of the Master's +house, the hall, the brewery, and the original dwellings have vanished. +The dwellings were rebuilt in 1674, and again in 1875, since which date +more cottages have been added, and a new chapel; and the hospital now +accommodates twelve poor women. The Mastership, still in the gift of the +Archbishop, is at present held with one of the canonries, and the cure +of souls is discharged by a non-resident chaplain. + + [Illustration: SEAL OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE'S HOSPITAL] + +Fortunately the old chapel remains. The main fabric is apparently +Thurstan's. It is of gritstone, but has been much altered and repaired +at later periods, when limestone has been used. To the later work belong +the set-off of the base, the coigns, the parapet, the east part of the +south wall, the framing of most of the windows and doors, and the +buttress and bell-cote at the west end. + +The west front is now divided by a large buttress of many stages +terminating in a slope, but the plinth of this buttress is apparently +original. To the right of the buttress is a long two-cusped lancet +light; to the left may be traced, perhaps, the outline of an original +round-arched window; while on both sides there are sloping lines in the +masonry, as if there had been an acutely-pointed gable here. + +The north side of the chapel has been propped at a late period by three +sloping buttresses. At its western end is a doorway, the jambs of which +seem original, while the pointed head is later. About half-way along +this side is one of those 'low side windows' through which, it is +supposed, the Sacrament was administered to lepers--indeed, the +leper-house stood on this side of the chapel.[127] Though of limestone, +this small lancet window, with its arch and dripstone trefoiled, is +apparently of the thirteenth century, and an early example of its +class. East of it are, first a Perpendicular window of two lights--late +in character, and second a partially-blocked and possibly original +doorway, perhaps for the priest, (though priests' doors are usually on +the south side). Its outer arch is rounded, while the inner is pointed +and has perhaps been altered. + +The east window is broad, finely arched, and surmounted by a bold +dripstone terminating in heads. Its four lights, partially blocked, are +round-headed, with rather large cusps, and in the upper part of the +window there is much tracery, in which perpendicular lines lead up to +arches that intersect. Indeed it is difficult to say whether this fine +window is an example of late Perpendicular, or of the transition to that +style from the Decorated. + +It is on the south side that the irregularity in the size, spacing, and +level of the windows in this chapel is most marked. Here toward the +eastern end is a square-headed Perpendicular window of two lights, much +resembling the south window at St. Anne's Hospital, and surmounted by a +square label. Next comes a small lancet, probably Early English, with no +limestone about it. The next window is tall, rectangular, and without +tracery, but the stump of a mullion remains on the sill, which is of +gritstone. West of this is the principal entrance, a Norman arch, +beneath which a pointed arch has been inserted, the original imposts, +however, remaining. The upper arch is enriched with the chevron, and its +dripstone with two rows of the round billet arranged chequerwise and +with a moulding composed of a series of little crosses, rather +suggestive of the dog-tooth. + +The interior has up to this time escaped 'restoration.' There have been +repairs, but enough only to arrest decay, and the plaster has not been +removed from the walls.[128] The length internally is about 49 feet and +the breadth just over 16 feet. The floor is of brick, and the roof, +which is almost flat, has been much renovated, but retains its original +massive cross beams and wooden corbels. Internally the two western +doorways are rounded, and just east of them the chapel is crossed by a +late Perpendicular screen, which retains its folding doors, and has an +uncommon effect due to the great length of the mullions in the upper +part. The lower portion was once closed. It is perhaps more probable +that this is the original position of the screen than that it ever +stretched across the Sanctuary. Against the north wall is a fine old +chest raised on feet and bound with many iron clamps ending in scrolls. +It has a double lock and a ring at either end, and inside it is kept a +curious bell of wood painted to resemble metal, and said to have been +hung in the bell-cote by an unscrupulous official who had caused the +real bell to be sold. + +The 'low side window' internally has a depressed pointed arch, and is +widely splayed, as are also the tall and the short window opposite. It +is remarkable that although the windows differ so much externally, yet +internally all except the 'low side window' and the east window are of +the form known as the 'shouldered arch,' a form which, by-the-way, is +more usually employed in doorways. + +In front of the Sanctuary are preserved two old Perpendicular pews or +stalls, with carved finials. The Sanctuary itself is raised on two +steps, and extends eight feet from the east wall. The blocked door +noticed on the exterior would open into the chapel immediately west of +the line of the lower step. + +This is among the very few churches in the country which retain the +pre-Reformation stone altar, and if the instance at St. Anne's Hospital +is genuine, Ripon thus possesses two examples of this rare feature. The +altar here is 7 feet 7 inches long, 3 feet 5 inches wide, 2 feet 11 +inches high, and has no step. Two of the usual five incised crosses (the +larger cross near the middle is probably spurious) may still be traced +upon the slab, the lower edge of which is chamfered off. In the front of +the substructure are two deep recesses. The altar is flanked by two +stone brackets. On the north wall is a third, and in the south wall a +piscina with two-cusped arch and projecting basin. + +In front of the altar is a tessellated pavement 11 feet long and nearly +4 feet wide. It is chiefly composed of red and blackish _tesseræ_; but +in the centre is a circular medallion containing a large four-petalled +white flower with a red centre and small red flowers between the petals, +all upon a ground of black. It has been supposed that this pavement was +taken from the neighbouring remains of some Roman building. As regards +the central medallion this is probably the case, but the rest of the +pavement seems to be later work, perhaps of the thirteenth century.[129] +At the south end of the pavement is the slab of another and smaller +altar, retaining three of its incised crosses. + +It appears from a document of 1306 that the chapel at that date +contained certain 'relics' of St. Mary Magdalene. + +Of the mediæval bridges of Ripon =The North Bridge= alone survives.[130] +It crosses the Ure on nine arches with bold buttresses, triangular in +plan, between them, and is prolonged, with three smaller arches, over +the low meadow which forms the southern shore. It is from this shore +that the best view of it is to be obtained, a few yards down stream. The +arches, some of them recessed, vary in height and span, but all are +round save two, over one of which there is a corbel-table below the +parapet. The other side of the bridge was remodelled some twenty years +ago. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[122] In the mediæval records the street is almost invariably called +Annesgate, and indeed was probably named after the hospital. The form +'Agnesgate' is, however, not modern, for it occurs in 1462. It may have +arisen from a trisyllabic pronunciation of 'Annesgate.' + +[123] Thus far I am largely indebted to a paper on this hospital by the +Rev. W. C. Lukis, F.S.A. in the twelfth edition of Walbran's _Ripon_. + +[124] Possibly those of Boynton or Plumpton (_Parker_). + +[125] The house is not shown. + +[126] This latter peculiarity is found also in a house at Bishopton, a +mile off. + +[127] Some archæologists, however, hold that the purpose of low side +windows was to display a light to scare away demons. + +[128] It is probable that in the interior of many of our old churches +the surface of the stone was never meant to be seen, and was covered +with plaster at the time of building. The plaster was doubtless often +adorned with designs in colour. + +[129] This view is held by Mr. Micklethwaite. The white _tesseræ_ in the +medallion resemble some which were dug up in 1837 on the site assigned +by Leland to the 'Old Abbay of Ripon' and which have been adduced to +support the view that Wilfrid's Abbey Church stood on that site and not +on the site of the present Cathedral (see p. 77 and n. 4 there). + +[130] The others were Bondgate Bridge (over the Skell), Bishopton Bridge +(over the Laver), Hewick Bridge (over the Ure below the town), the +Archer-bridge, and the 'Esgel-bridge.' The position of the two last is +uncertain, and the rest have long been rebuilt. Bishopton Bridge had a +chapel upon it with which was connected a hermit. In the middle ages the +bridges were under the charge of the Archbishop. They were often the +recipients of bequests, but were themselves made to contribute to the +Common Fund of the Collegiate Church, by means of money-boxes which were +placed upon them. + + + + +APPENDIX. + + +ABBOTS OF THE SAXON MONASTERY. + + ST. EATA _c._ 657-661. + ST. WILFRID 661-709. + TATBERHT 709. + BOTWINE died 786. + ALBERHT 786-787. + SIGRED 787. + UILDEN OR WILDENG ? + + +CANONS OF STANWICK IN THE MEDIÆVAL COLLEGIATE CHURCH.[131] + + Geoffrey de Bockland _circa_ 1226. + Laurence de Topcliffe _circa_ 1230. + Eadmund de Maundevill resigned 1279. + Anthony Beck[132] 1279. + Roger Swayne _c._ 1285-_c._ 1311. + Richard de Henney 1311-_c._ 1315. + William de Seton 1316-_c._ 1320. + Thomas de Cave 1320-_c._ 1322. + Robert de Rypon 1322-_c._ 1333. + Peter de Wetwang 1333. + John de Crakhall _c._ 1344-_c._ 1378. + John de Seggefield 1378-1384. + John de Middleton 1384-1397. + John de Dene[133] 1397-_c._ 1435. + Simon Alcock 1435-_c._ 1436. + Richard Morton 1436-? 1447. + John Clere ? 1447-1478. + Robert Symson 1479-1481. + Thomas Bakehouse 1481-_c._ 1521. + Richard Dean _c._ 1535-_c._ 1545. + Christopher Seale _c._ 1545-? 1547. + + +DEANS OF KING JAMES I.'S FOUNDATION. + + Moses Fowler, B.D. 1604-1608. + Anthony Higgin, B.D. 1608-1624. + John Wilson, D.D. 1624-1634. + Thomas Dod, D.D.[134] 1635-_c._ 1645. + John Wilkins, D.D., F.R.S.[135] 1660-1668. + John Neile, D.D.[136] 1674-1675. + Thomas Tullie, D.D. 1675. + Thomas Cartwright, D.D.[137] 1675-1686. + Christopher Wyvill, D.D.[138] 1686-1710. + Heneage Dering, LL.D.[139] 1710-1750. + Francis Wanley, D.D.[140] 1750-1791. + Robert Darley Waddilove, LL.D., F.S.A.[141] 1792-1828. + James Webber, D.D. 1828- + + +DEANS OF THE CATHEDRAL FOUNDATION. + + James Webber, D.D.[142] -1847. + The Hon. Henry David Erskine, D.D.[143] 1847-1859. + Thomas Garnier, B.C.L. 1859-1860. + William Goode, D.D., F.S.A. 1860-1868. + Hugh M'Neile, D.D. 1868-1876. + Sydney Turner, B.A. 1876. + William Robert Fremantle, D.D. 1876-1895. + The Hon. William Henry Fremantle, D.D. 1895. + + +BISHOPS OF RIPON. + + EADHEAD 681-686. + CHARLES THOMAS LONGLEY, D.D., F.S.A.[144] 1836-1856. + ROBERT BICKERSTETH, D.D., F.R.S.[145] 1857-1884. + WILLIAM BOYD-CARPENTER, D.D. 1884. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[131] The mediæval College of Canons had no official head, but the +Prebendary of Stanwick, as Ruler of the Choir, was generally in +residence, and was in some sense the most important of the Canons. He +did not, however, preside, at least not if any other Canon was in +residence. Thus Christopher Dragley (Prebendary of Monkton) was often +_Praesidens Capituli_ from 1533 to 1539, and Marmaduke Bradley +(Prebendary of Thorp) from 1544 to 1546. + +[132] Afterwards the celebrated Bishop of Durham, one of the most +prominent personages at the court of Edward I. + +[133] A brass to him is preserved in the Cathedral. The inscription was +probably cut in his lifetime, for the space for the date of his death is +left blank. He helped to found the chantry of St. Wilfrid, and is buried +in the Choir. + +[134] Deprived by the Parliament when they suppressed the Chapter. + +[135] One of the founders of the Royal Society: married Oliver +Cromwell's sister: became Bishop of Chester. + +[136] Buried near the vestry door. + +[137] Became Bishop of Chester, and was a strong supporter of James II. + +[138] Buried within the Altar-rails (brass). + +[139] Buried in the north choir-aisle (tablet). + +[140] Buried in the Cathedral (formerly there was a tablet in the south +aisle of the nave). + +[141] Tablet in the Chapter-house. + +[142] Buried within the Altar-rails. + +[143] Buried in the graveyard near the north-east corner of the choir +(tomb by Sir Gilbert Scott). + +[144] Afterwards Bishop of Durham, then Archbishop of York, and finally +Archbishop of Canterbury. The modern diocese of Ripon does not +correspond in area with that over which Eadhead presided (_see Chap. +I._) + +[145] Buried in the graveyard near the south-east corner of the choir. + + + + +INDEX. + + + ABBOTS, list of, 142. + + Ailcy Hill, 9. + + Aisles of the nave, 78; + south aisle, 79; + north aisle, 81; + of the choir, (north) 113; + (south) 115. + + Archbishops of York, 13 _et seq._ + + Athelstan, King, 9. + + + BAS-RELIEF of lion, 80. + + Bedern, the, 24, 26, 34. + + Bells, the, 43. + + Bishops of Ripon, 143. + + Bridge, the North, 141. + + + CANONS, irregularities of the, 23. + + Canons of Stanwick, list of, 142. + + Chantries, 28. + + Chapter, the, 29, 30; + re-established, 31, 33, 34, 37. + + Chapter-house, the, 53, 122-125. + + Charles I., 34. + + Choir, the, 49, 58; + interior, 96-117. + + College of Canons, the, 12, 17, 22, 30. + + Courts, ecclesiastical and secular, 19, 31, 37. + + Crypt, the Saxon, 71-78; + the Norman, 117-120. + + Cuthbert, St., 4, 11, 12. + + + DEANERY, the, 133. + + Deans, list of, 143. + + Dedication by Wilfrid, 6. + + Diocese of Ripon, 36. + + + EADHEAD, Bishop of Ripon, 7. + + East End, the, 60. + + Eata, first Abbot, 4, 12. + + Edward I., 25. + + + FONTS, the, 79. + + Grammar-School, Ripon, 14, 30-36. + + Gray, Archbishop Walter de, 11, 16, 21. + + + HENRY IV., 26. + + Henry V., 11. + + + JAMES I., 31, 33. + + + LADY-KIRK, the, 22, 27. + + Lady-loft, the, 54, 129. + + Liberty of Ripon, 19-37. + + Library, the, 130. + + + MALLORY Chapel, 93. + + Markenfield Chapel and tombs, 90. + + Monastery of Ripon, the (Scottish), 4; + (Saxon), 5; + end of, 12. + + + NAVE, rebuilding of, 27, 69; + north side, exterior, 44; + south side, 50; + interior, 65. + + + ODA, Archbishop of Canterbury, 11. + + Organ, the, 111. + + Oswald, Archbishop, 11. + + + PALACE, Archiepiscopal, 24, 35. + + Peculiar, the parish a, 19, 31, 37. + + Prebends, 12, 14, 17, 18, 23, 26. + + Presbytery, arrangement of the, 104. + + Pulpit (Old) in north transept, 88. + + + Ripon Minster, foundation of the Scottish monastery, 4; + original site of, 5; + dedication of new church, 6; + end of monastery, 12; + as a collegiate church, 12, 22; + as a parochial church, 18, 22; + present church built, 15; + central tower reconstructed, 27; + nave rebuilt, 27. + + Rising in the North, the, 30. + + Roger de Pont l'Evêque, Archbishop, 15; + his plan, 16, 67. + + Rood Screen, the, 94. + + + ST. AGNES' Lodge, 136. + + St. Anne's Hospital, 133. + + St. John's Hospital, 36. + + St. Mary Magdalene's Hospital, 35, 137. + + Sanctuary, right of, 9, 23, 30. + + Saxon monastery, the, 5. + + Scots, incursion of, 25. + + Scottish monastery, the, 4. + + Sedilia, the, 104. + + Site, original, 5. + + Spires, fall and removal of the, 34. + + Stalls, the choir, 106. + + Stammergate, 5, 22, 35. + + Stanwick, Prebend, 17, 18, 29, 142. + + + THEODORE, Archbishop of Canterbury, 6. + + Thomas of Bayeux, Archbishop, 13. + + Thorp, prebendal house, 36, 136. + + Throne, the Bishop's, 111; + the Archbishop's, 36. + + Thurstan, Archbishop, 73, 14. + + Tower, the central, 45, 56; + interior, 82. + + Towers, western, 41. + + Transept, north, 46; + south, 51, 56; + interior, 85; + north, 86; + south, 91. + + + VAULT-BOSSES in choir, 103. + + Vaulting, north transept, 91. + + Vestry, the, 125. + + + WAKEMAN, the, 33. + + West front, the, 16, 40, 43; + interior, 68. + + West Gate, the, demolished, 35. + + Wilfrid, St., 4, 6, 7, 8, 12, 75; + relics of, 11, 16; + translation of, 14; + shrine of, 14, 29, 81; + crypt of, 31, 71. + + William, St., of York (Archbishop Fitzherbert), 15. + + Window, east, 34, 62, 102. + + Wolsey, Archbishop, 33. + + Wulfstan, Archbishop, 10. + + +[Illustration: GROUND PLAN OF RIPON CATHEDRAL.] + + + + +DIMENSIONS (internal). + + Total Length, 270 feet + Length of Nave, 133 " + Width of Nave, 87 " + Width of Transept, 52 " + Height of Vault (Nave), 88 " + Height of Towers, 110 " + Area, 25,280 square feet. + + +PRINTED BY NEILL AND CO., LTD., EDINBURGH. + + + + * * * * * * + + + +Transcriber's Note + + The following obvious typographical errors were corrected: + + Page Error + 2 the Tower. changed to the Tower.) + 10, fn. 10 St Wilfrid's changed to St. Wilfrid's + 111 ascendency changed to ascendancy + 115, fn. 103 Surtee's changed to Surtees + 118 anyrate changed to any rate + 136 acolyte's Orders changed to acolyte's Orders. + + + The following words were inconsistently spelled: + + afterthought / after-thought + Agnesgate / Agnes-gate + aisleless / aisle-less + stonework / stone-work + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BELL'S CATHEDRALS: THE CATHEDRAL +CHURCH OF RIPON*** + + +******* This file should be named 25800-8.txt or 25800-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/5/8/0/25800 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Ripon</p> +<p> A Short History of the Church and a Description of Its Fabric</p> +<p>Author: Cecil Walter Charles Hallett</p> +<p>Release Date: June 16, 2008 [eBook #25800]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BELL'S CATHEDRALS: THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF RIPON***</p> +<p> </p> +<h3>E-text prepared by Jonathan Ingram, Julia Miller,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3> +<p> </p> +<div style="background-color: #EEE; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em;"> +<p class="titlepage"><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. +A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of changes is found +at the end of the book. Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have +been retained. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of inconsistently +spelled words is found at the end of the book.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[ii]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 532px;"> +<a name="image01" id="image01"></a><a href="images/image01-full.jpg"><img src="images/image01.jpg" width="532" height="361" alt="Photo of the the cathedral" title="Ripon Cathedral from the footbridge over the Skell." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> +<p class="caption smcap">Ripon Cathedral from the footbridge over the Skell.</p> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p> + + + +<h1 style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 60%;">THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF</span><br /> +RIPON</h1> + +<p class="titlepage" style="font-size: 120%;">A SHORT HISTORY OF THE<br /> +CHURCH & A DESCRIPTION<br /> +OF ITS FABRIC</p> + +<p class="titlepage" style="font-size: 90%; margin-top: 2em;">BY</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><span style="font-size: 120%;">CECIL HALLETT, B.A.</span><br /> +MAGDALEN COLL., OXFORD</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><span style="padding-left: 2em; padding-right: 2em;">WITH 53</span> <a name="image02" id="image02"></a><img src="images/image02.jpg" width="156" height="166" style="vertical-align: middle;" alt="colophon" title="" /> ILLUSTRATIONS</p> + +<p class="titlepage" style="font-size: 120%; margin-top: 2em;">LONDON GEORGE BELL & SONS 1901</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>The original authorities for the history (both constitutional and +architectural) of the Church of Ripon have been most ably edited for the +Surtees Society by the Rev. Canon J. T. Fowler, F.S.A., in his +<i>Memorials of Ripon</i> and <i>The Ripon Chapter Acts</i> (<i>Surtees Soc.</i>, vols. +74, 78, 81, 64). These authorities range from the Saxon period to the +times following the Reformation, but in the Introductions to vol. 81, +and in the Rev. J. Ward’s <i>Fasti Riponienses</i>, included in vol. 78, the +story is virtually continued to our own day; while the aforesaid +Introductions epitomise, in its constitutional and architectural +aspects, the whole history of the church.</p> + +<p>To these volumes and to their Editor, who most kindly consented to +revise the proofs of this book, the present writer is very deeply +indebted. He has also had recourse to an article by Sir G. Gilbert +Scott, R.A., in vol. xxxi. of the <i>Archæological Journal</i>; to the same +Author’s <i>Recollections</i>; to several articles on the Saxon Crypt, duly +specified on pp. 76, 77; to the Guides, by J. R. Walbran, F.S.A., +published by Mr. Harrison of Ripon; to Mr. Murray’s <i>Cathedrals</i>; to the +volume by the Ven. Archdeacon Danks in Messrs. Isbister’s Cathedral +Series; to <i>A Day in the City of Ripon</i>, by Mr. George Parker of Ripon; +to the old Guides by Farrer and Gent respectively; and to other works of +a more general character.</p> + +<p>His sincere thanks are also due to the Right Rev. the Bishop of Ripon +for permission to consult the library at the Palace; to the Very Rev. +the Dean for privileges granted in connection with the library in the +Cathedral and with the Cathedral itself; to the Ven. the Archdeacon of +Ripon and the Ven. the Archdeacon of Richmond for their courteous +assistance on several occasions; to Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite, V.P.S.A., +Mr. W. H. St. John Hope, Mrs. Swire, the Rev. H. A. Wilson, Fellow of +Magdalen College, the Rev. G. W. Garrod, and Mr. John Whitham for +valuable information on various points, historical and architectural; to +Mr. Ronald P. Jones for his excellent photographs, to the Archæological +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span>Institute and other learned Societies for various other illustrations, +and to the Rev. E. H. Swann, the Rev. J. Beanland, Capt. E. J. Warre +Slade, R.N., Mr. F. Forbes Glennie, Mr. T. Wall, Mr. Watson, and others +for similar assistance.</p> + +<p>He desires also to express his thanks to Mr. E. W. Winser, Dean’s +Verger, for much valuable local information; to Mr. Henry Williams, +Canons’ Verger, for expert advice on points of masonry; and to both, as +well as to the Sexton, for that general assistance which they so +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span>willingly rendered him throughout his investigation of the Fabric.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td style="font-size: smaller;">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">Chapter I.—History of the Church</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">3</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">Chapter II.—The Exterior</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">39</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">Chapter III.—The Interior</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">65</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">Chapter IV.—Other Old Buildings in Ripon</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">133</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"><hr style="width: 3em; border: solid black 1px; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em;" /></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Appendix—</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="padded2"><a href="#ABBOTS">Abbots of the Monastery of Ripon</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#ABBOTS">142</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="padded2"><a href="#Canons">Canons of Stanwick</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Canons">142</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="padded2"><a href="#Deans_of_King_James_Is">Deans of King James I. Foundation</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Deans_of_King_James_Is">143</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="padded2"><a href="#Deans_of_the_Cathedral">Deans of the Cathedral Foundation</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Deans_of_the_Cathedral">143</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="padded2"><a href="#BISHOPS">Bishops of Ripon</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#BISHOPS">143</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#INDEX">Index</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#INDEX">145</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="List of Illustrations"> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr" style="font-size: smaller;">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ripon Cathedral from the Footbridge over the Skell</td> + <td style="padding-right: 2em;"><a href="#image01"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Arms of the See</td> + <td style="padding-right: 3em;"><a href="#image02"><i>Title Page</i></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Nave, South Side</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image03">2</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>View from the South-West</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image04">3</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Early Apsidal Chapel with Later Chapel superimposed</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image05">13</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The West Front before Restoration</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image06">17</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Mediæval Seals (3)</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image07">20</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ripon Minster Anterior to 1660 (from an old Engraving)</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image08">32</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Cathedral from the South-East</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image09">38</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The West Doorways</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image10">39</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>View from the North-West</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image11">42</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Doorway, North Transept</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image12">47</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Doorway, South Transept</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image13">52</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Reconstructed Angle of the Great Tower</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image14">57</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Flying Buttresses, South Side of Choir</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image15">59</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The East End</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image16">61</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The North-Western Portion of the Nave</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image17">64</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Conjectural View of the Interior of Archbishop Roger’s Nave (by Sir G. G. Scott)</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image18">65</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Conjectural Plan of Archbishop Roger’s Church (by Sir G. G. Scott)</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image19">67</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Nave, looking Westward</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image20">70</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Plan of Saxon Crypt</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image21">72</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Saxon Crypt</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image22">73</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Conjectural Plan of St. Wilfrid’s Crypt and Presbytery (by Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite)</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image23">77</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Two Fonts</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image24">79</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bas-Relief in the South Aisle of the Nave</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image25">80</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Western Arch of the Central Tower</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image26">83</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The North Transept</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image27">87</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Vault of North Transept Aisle</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image28">91</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Rood Screen</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image29">95</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span>The Great East Window</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image30">97</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bay of Archbishop Roger’s Choir (by Sir G. G. Scott)</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image31">98</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Decorated Capital in the Choir</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image32">99</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The North Side of the Choir</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image33">100</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bosses from the Choir-Vault (2)</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image34">103</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Sedilia</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image36">105</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Choir Stalls</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image37">107</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Misereres</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image38">108</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Desk-End of Mayor’s Stall</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image39">109</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Finial in front of the Bishop’s Throne</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image40">110</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The West End of the Choir</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image41">112</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The North Choir Aisle</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image42">113</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Transitional Vaulting Corbel</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image43">114</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Norman Crypt</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image44">118</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Chapter-House</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image45">122</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ancient Sculptures in the Chapter-House</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image46">124</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Library</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image47">130</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Old Chapel, St. Mary Magdalene’s Hospital</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image48">132</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Chapel of St. Anne’s Hospital</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image49">135</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Seal of St. Mary Magdalene’s Hospital</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#image50">138</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap" style="padding-top: 1em;">Plan of the Cathedral</td> + <td class="tdr" style="padding-top: 1em;"><a href="#image51"><i>at end</i></a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"><br />[2]</a></span></p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 354px;"> +<a name="image03" id="image03"></a><a href="images/image03-full.jpg"><img src="images/image03.jpg" width="354" height="511" alt="Photo of the the cathedral, showing junction of Transitional and Perpendicular work in the +Tower." title="THE NAVE—SOUTH SIDE." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE NAVE—SOUTH SIDE.</p> + +<p class="caption">(Showing junction of Transitional and Perpendicular work in the +<a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a>Tower.)</p> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;"> +<a name="image04" id="image04"></a><a href="images/image04-full.jpg"><img src="images/image04.jpg" width="360" height="250" alt="Photo of the the cathedral" title="VIEW FROM THE SOUTH-WEST." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">VIEW FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.</p> +</div> + + +<p class="titlepage" style="font-size: 150%; margin-top: 2em;">RIPON CATHEDRAL.</p> + + +<h2 class="sectionhead"><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.<br /> + +<span class="chaptitle">HISTORY OF THE CHURCH.</span></h2> + + +<p>There is evidence that the neighbourhood of Ripon was inhabited during, +and perhaps before, the Roman occupation of Britain. Whether the place +was a settlement of the Romans is uncertain; but it was assuredly in +touch with their civilization, for several of their roads passed near +it—notably Watling Street, on which, six miles to the east, was +Isurium, the modern Aldborough; while imperial coins and other Roman +objects have been dug up in Ripon itself. It is not known whether the +Romans imparted to the local tribes of the Brigantes their own +Christianity; but two centuries after the withdrawal of the legions the +greater part of what is now Yorkshire was absorbed by the invading +Angles into their kingdom of Deira, which had itself been united with +the more northern kingdom of Bernicia <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>to form the single realm of +Northumbria. Deira, however, seems to have retained its own +individuality. About the year 627 King Eadwine of Northumbria was +converted to Christianity by Paulinus, and the majority of his Deiran +subjects followed his example.</p> + +<p><b>The Scottish Monastery.</b>—It is in the middle of the seventh century that +the recorded history of Ripon begins. Deira was then ruled by Prince +Alchfrith of Northumbria under his father, King Oswiu, nephew of +Eadwine, and Bede, writing not eighty years after the event, relates +that the prince chose Ripon for the site of a monastery. The date may be +fixed in or just before the year 657. This monastery was one of those +numerous religious colonies which were the result not only of the new +Christian fervour, but also of a reaction from war toward social life +and industry. It did not represent the Roman Christianity of Augustine +which Paulinus had introduced into Deira from Canterbury, but the +Christianity which had come from Ireland through St. Columba’s +missionary college at Iona, and which was now predominant throughout the +north. The monks of Ripon were brought from Melrose Abbey on the Tweed. +Like most monks of that early period, they probably followed no definite +Rule. Their abbot was Eata, a pupil of St. Aidan, and previously Abbot +of Melrose and Lindisfarne, while the guest-master was no less a person +than Cuthbert, the legend of whose having entertained an angel unawares +at Ripon added, no doubt, to the growing reputation of the house.</p> + +<p>Its tranquillity, however, was not to last. The Roman party in the +Northumbrian Church, though inconsiderable, was gaining force, and +Alchfrith, deserting his former convictions, gave the new monastery, +with an endowment of thirty or forty hides of land, as Bede relates, to +one who had visited Rome, and who regarded the Irish (or, as it was +called by that time, the Scottish) Church as schismatical.</p> + +<p>The life of <b>St. Wilfrid of Ripon</b>—so full of adventure, misfortune, and +lasting achievement—can only be related here in so far as it bears upon +the story of this, his favourite monastery. It was in 661 that the +transference from Eata to Wilfrid took place, and at once the Scottish +monks, refusing to conform to Roman usages, left Ripon in a body. It is +probable that Wilfrid imposed upon their successors the Benedictine +Rule, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>which he had studied at Rome. The new Abbot was not yet in +priest’s orders, but was presently ordained at Ripon by Agilbert, the +Frankish Bishop of Wessex. In 664 he took the action for which he is +especially remembered in English history. Appearing at the Synod of +Whitby, he prevailed upon King Oswiu to throw in his lot with the Roman +party, and was thus the means indirectly of preventing the isolation of +the England of that time from the Church and civilization of the +Continent. Almost immediately afterwards Abbot Wilfrid became Bishop of +Northumbria, and this tenure of the two offices by the same person was +perhaps the origin of the subsequent connection of Ripon with the +Archbishops of York.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Wilfrid insisted on going to be consecrated by +Agilbert, who was now Bishop of Paris, and so long did he remain abroad +that on his return in 666 he found another bishop, Chad (afterwards St. +Chad of Lichfield), in possession of the see. He therefore retired to +Ripon for three years, during which, however, he visited Mercia and also +Kent, where he met Aedde, or Eddius, who became his chaplain and +biographer.</p> + +<p><b>The Saxon Monastery.</b>—In 669 Wilfrid was restored to his see by +Theodore, Archbishop of Canterbury, and soon afterwards began to build +at Ripon. The Scottish monastery, which was probably of wood, is thought +to have occupied a site between Priest Lane, Stonebridgegate,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and a +nameless road which connects them. Wilfrid now abandoned it, and erected +upon a new site a more imposing monastery of stone.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> The practice of +building in stone seems to have become uncommon in Britain after the +departure of the Romans, and Wilfrid is thought to have employed foreign +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>workmen, perhaps Italians.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> His church is described by Eddius, +himself now a Ripon monk, as “of smoothed stone from base to summit, and +supported on various columns and (?) arcades (<i>porticibus</i>),” and was +doubtless of that Italian type which had become identified in Britain +with the Roman party in the Church, as opposed to the Scottish mission. +The Scottish type of church consisted of a small aisle-less nave and +square chancel: the Italian type generally had aisles, and the altar was +usually raised upon a platform, beneath which was a crypt called +<i>confessio</i>. A little later than 670 <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> Wilfrid’s new minster was +solemnly dedicated by him in honour of St. Peter, in the presence of a +great concourse of clergy and nobles, headed by the King of Northumbria, +Ecgfrith, the successor of Oswiu. The endowments seem to have included +at this time certain lands round Ripon which had belonged to the British +Church before the coming of the Angles, and to have been now increased +by grants—some as far distant as Lancashire—made by the great men +present at the ceremony. Wilfrid himself gave a splendid copy of the +Gospels, written in gold upon purple vellum, the beginning perhaps of a +library.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> The feasting was kept up for three days—indeed, no +monastery could have had for its church a more striking dedication. And +for the next seven years Ripon must have shared the importance of the +Abbot-Bishop, whose state rivalled that of the king. By persuading the +queen to become a nun, however, he presently lost the royal favour; +while the great size of the diocese, which extended at last from the +Forth to the Wash, prevented the achievement of complete success in his +episcopal work.</p> + +<p>As yet the see of Canterbury was the sole archbishopric, and in 678 +Archbishop Theodore—already known as an organizer of the +episcopate—was invited to the court of Northumbria. With Ecgfrith’s +approval, but without consulting Wilfrid, he divided the diocese into +the three sees of Hexham, York, and Lindsey, answering respectively to +the tribal divisions Bernicia, Deira, and the land of the Lindiswaras +(Lincoln<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>shire). Wise though this action was, it was naturally resented +by Wilfrid, who appealed to the Pope—the first appeal of the kind ever +made by an Englishman—and set out himself for Rome. He was destined not +to return till 680, and even then to be kept out of his bishopric till +686. Ripon was now in the new diocese of York, but in 681 Theodore +constituted yet another diocese, of which he made Ripon the cathedral +town.</p> + +<p>Of <b>Eadhead, First Bishop of Ripon</b> (681-686), little is known. Originally +a priest at the court of Oswiu, he had accompanied the intruded bishop, +Chad, when the latter sought consecration at Canterbury during Wilfrid’s +absence for consecration in Gaul. Eadhead had afterwards been appointed +by Theodore to the see of Lindsey, and was translated thence to Ripon +when Lindsey was recovered by the Mercians.</p> + +<p>His tenure of his new office lasted for five years only, for in 686 +Aldfrith, the successor of Ecgfrith, restored Wilfrid—not indeed to his +original bishopric of Northumbria, but to a see which combined the +lately-formed dioceses of Ripon and York<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>. Eadhead accordingly +retired, and there were no more Bishops of Ripon for twelve centuries.</p> + +<p>To Wilfrid was restored not only his bishopric, but also his monastery +of Ripon, which he retained in peace for the next five years. At the end +of that time a long dispute arose with Aldfrith, who was veering back to +the diocesan partition of Theodore, and Wilfrid, deprived of his see for +the third time, crossed over into Mercia. In 703 a synod was held at +Austerfield, the King and Berhtwald, Archbishop of Canterbury, being +present, when Wilfrid was actually asked to promise that he would cease +to act as bishop, that he would accept the partition of Theodore, and +that he would retire to Ripon and not leave the monastery without the +king’s permission.</p> + +<p>Though he was now a man of seventy, he set out once more for Rome, and +this time as before the Pope decided in his favour. Returning to Ripon +in 705, he attempted to conciliate Aldfrith’s successor Eadwulf, but in +vain. In the same <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>year, however, Eadwulf was succeeded by Osred, and +presently another synod was held, this time at Nidd, seven miles south +of Ripon, when it was decided, in the presence of Osred and the now +relenting Berhtwald, that Wilfrid should have the monastery and see of +Hexham (resigning York) and the monastery of Ripon, thus restored to him +for the second time.</p> + +<p>In 709 he received a call to Mercia, which had already twice received +him in his adversity, and in which he had accepted the bishopric of +Leicester. Immediately before his departure he was at Ripon, where he +kept his treasure, and having a presentiment that he would never return, +he bequeathed a portion of his wealth to the monastery, appointed +Tatberht to succeed him as Abbot, and took an affecting farewell of the +whole community. Arriving at his monastery of Oundle, in +Northamptonshire, he was seized with illness, and died there on October +12 in the seventy-sixth year of his age. The body was placed on a car +and carried in solemn procession to Ripon, where it was buried on the +south side of the high altar in his own minster.</p> + +<p>In 710 the anniversary of his death was kept at Ripon with great +solemnity, and out of such commemorations, probably, arose the feast of +his <i>Depositio</i>,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> which was afterwards kept on every 12th of October. +According to Eddius a remarkable phenomenon occurred on this occasion. +In the evening the monastery was suddenly encircled with brilliant +light, as of day, and whether this was a display of Northern Lights or +not, it was regarded as a Divine testimony to the sanctity of Wilfrid. +The story shows, at any rate, that he was already beginning to be +regarded as a saint, and it was probably about this time that his name +was coupled with St. Peter’s in the dedication of the Church. Miracles +were worked at his tomb, and it became an object of pilgrimage; but +little is known of the period immediately succeeding his death, save +that the dwellers around Ripon (as a twelfth century writer, Eadmer, +represents) first encouraged the cult of the saint, then became +disgusted at the crowds it drew, and finally endeavoured to check it +altogether. Wilfrid was succeeded in the abbacy by Tatberht, and history +has recorded the names of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>three more abbots who followed each other +toward the end of the eighth century, Botwine, Alberht, Sigred; and of +one of uncertain date, Uilden or Wildeng.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> In 791 a noble named +Eardwulf, who had plotted against Ethelred, then King of Northumbria, +was put to death (as it was thought) at the monastery gate by the king’s +orders. The monks carried him ‘with Gregorian chantings’ to the +precincts of the church, where they laid him out, but after midnight he +was found within the building—a recovery which was regarded as +miraculous.</p> + +<p>Ripon did not escape the violence of the Danes. It is thought that about +the year 860 they burned the town and did some damage to the church, and +the remarkable mound known as <b>Ailcy Hill</b>,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> near the Canons’ Residence, +and due east of the Cathedral, is probably a relic of some battle of +this period. In the street-names too, all ending in ‘gate’ (which in the +sense of ‘way’ is a Danish word), another trace may perhaps be found of +their presence, as well as of the existence of a town at this early +period. The town probably grew up around the monastery. It has been +believed that a civic charter was granted by King Alfred in 886; but +this is impossible, even if such charters were ever granted at this +time, for Alfred had resigned all this part of England (which since +about 839 had owned the overlordship of Wessex) to the Danes in 878.</p> + +<p>One of the great events in Ripon history is the visit of Alfred’s +grandson <b>King Athelstan</b>. Yorkshire had lately been a separate Danish +kingdom, but it passed under the direct rule of Wessex in 926, and it +was either in that year that Athelstan came, or in 937, when he defeated +the Scots and other northern rebels at Brunanburh. It was to this king +that the church afterwards referred the grant of its most important +privileges. Among these was that of <b>sanctuary</b>, by which homicides, +thieves, debtors, etc., could flee to Ripon and live there under the +protection of St. Wilfrid for a specified time. The area within which +they were protected extended one mile from the church in every +direction, and the limit was marked by eight crosses, the base of one of +which is still to be seen on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>the Sharow Road. The penalties for +molesting refugees were afterwards graduated as follows:—between the +limit and the graveyard wall, £18; within the graveyard, £36; within the +choir (where the pursued sought the last possible refuge at the +‘grythstool,’ or chair of sanctuary), confiscation of goods and possible +death. Those who took sanctuary were called ‘gyrthmen’ or ‘grythmen’ +(from the Anglo-Saxon ‘gryth’ ‘peace’), and undertook, among other +things, to carry the banners before the relics of St. Wilfrid in certain +processions. They were under the spiritual charge of a ‘gryth-priest.’ +The protection of the outer sanctuary can hardly have been extended to +Ripon men, as theoretically the whole town could then have committed +crimes with impunity, and practically the criminals would not have been +safe from their fellow-townsmen. Ripon debtors did indeed enjoy +protection here at Rogation-tide, but as a rule men of Ripon would seek +sanctuary at Durham or Beverley. Athelstan is also said to have granted +to the church a jurisdiction over its lands independent alike of the +northern archbishop and of the king, with the right to inflict the +ordeals of fire and water, and with exemption from taking oaths, from +taxation, and from military service.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> Of the two charters in which +these grants are set forth, one is, indeed of the eleventh or twelfth, +and the other of the thirteenth century, but Athelstan may at any rate +have done something to give rise to the tradition, though it is +impossible to tell exactly what. The story of his having given the manor +to the see of York is doubtless misleading. The territorial sway of the +Archbishop at Ripon must be of earlier origin, and it may even have +arisen out of the grant of the monastery with its thirty or forty hides +of land to Wilfrid and his retention of them after his elevation to the +see of Northumbria.</p> + +<p>The connection of the monastery with the Archbishop is illustrated in +the reign of Athelstan’s brother Eadred, when Archbishop Wulfstan, by +aiding a rebellion for the purpose of again setting up a Danish king at +York, drew down the royal anger upon Ripon. In 948 (or 950, according to +one authority) Eadred harried Northumbria, and then, says the Worcester<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +Chronicle, “was that famed minster burned at Ripon, which St. Wilfrid +built.” Wulfstan himself was deprived and imprisoned.</p> + +<p>About two years later the half-ruined and deserted church was visited +(the see of York being vacant) by Oda, Archbishop of Canterbury. There +was a tradition in the sixteenth century that he rebuilt it, but his +visit is also memorable for another tradition, namely, that he +translated the bones of St. Wilfrid to Canterbury. Hence arose a fierce +dispute between Canterbury and Ripon, each claiming that it possessed +the body of the Saint. The claim of Canterbury, which is accepted to +this day by the Church of Rome, is supported by the assertion of Oda +himself, and by several subsequent chroniclers, one of whom, however, +attributes the translation to St. Dunstan, while another goes so far as +to concede that Oda left a portion of the bones behind. But Ripon always +maintained that it possessed the whole, and that the relics removed had +been those of Wilfrid II. (Archbishop of York, 718-732). According to +the contemporary biographer of Oswald (Archbishop of York, 972-992) the +bones of the Saint were at Ripon in the tenth century, and Oswald +solemnly enshrined them—whence that feast of St. Wilfrid’s translation +which was afterwards kept on the 24th of April; and a later chronicler +speaks of “the body of the blessed Wilfrid” as being at Ripon in the +reign of Stephen. The claim of Canterbury was forgotten for a time in +the glories of St. Thomas à Becket, while that of Ripon became more or +less established in the north. In 1224 Archbishop de Gray, who +translated the alleged relics at Ripon to a more splendid shrine, +declared that he had found the skeleton complete. In the fifteenth +century Henry V. himself writes to Ripon of his reverence for “St. +Wilfrid, buried in the said church.” In the sixteenth, Leland, while +recording a common opinion that Oda rebuilt the minster, makes no +mention of any removal of the relics. The controversy will perhaps never +be decided definitely, but it is interesting in view of the cult of St. +Wilfrid at Ripon in the middle ages.</p> + +<p>The account of the enshrinement of the relics by Oswald has been thought +to imply that it was he who rebuilt the monastery, and that he filled it +again with monks. Whether it was rebuilt by Oda or Oswald, the body of +St. Cuthbert rested here in 995 on its way from Chester-le-Street to +Dur<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>ham. From this point onwards, however, no more is heard of monks at +Ripon, and it may be interesting to recall here the part which this +monastery had played in the history of the Church. Its first abbot, +Eata, had become Bishop of Hexham and of Lindisfarne. It had been for a +time the home of St. Cuthbert. Under Wilfrid, Ceolfrith, one of its +monks, had become Abbot of Wearmouth, and another, Æthelwald, had +carried on Cuthbert’s work in the Farne Islands. In accepting and +treasuring the staff of St. Columba, the Ripon of Wilfrid had forgotten +something of its hostility to the Scottish mission. Through Wilfrid, +Ripon had been connected with the founding of other monasteries, Hexham, +Selsey, Lichfield, Oundle. Through his labours, again, and those of St. +Willibrord, another of its monks, it had become known as a great centre +of missionary work. Wilfrid had strengthened Christianity in Mercia and +Kent, and may claim to have introduced it into Sussex and the Isle of +Wight. Abroad he had carried the Gospel to the Frisians, and his work +among them was splendidly completed by Willibrord, who became Archbishop +of Utrecht.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></p> + +<p><b>The College of Secular Canons.</b>—From 995 to the Conquest, the history of +Ripon is almost a blank. During that time the monastery, by a reversal +of the more usual process, became converted into a college of secular +canons, but nothing is known of the manner in which the change was +effected. The last Saxon Archbishop of York, Ealdred, who crowned both +Harold and the Conqueror, is said to have founded prebends—perhaps +giving lands out of his manor, and the Canons of Ripon duly appear in +Domesday Book (1085-6). In 1070 the Conqueror, to whom the north had +given much difficulty, ordered the Vale of York to be harried. Ripon +suffered severely, and in Domesday Book the surrounding lands are +recorded as “waste.” The minster probably shared in the general wreck.</p> + +<p>What happened to it in the succeeding period is not definitely known. It +may have been entirely rebuilt, as most great Saxon churches were after +the Conquest, or it may have been rebuilt partially, or merely enlarged. +That <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>something was done is proved by the existence south of the choir +of some Norman work which has been attributed to the first Norman +Archbishop, Thomas of Bayeux (1070-1100), or to Archbishop Thurstan +(1114-1141).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 366px;"> +<a name="image05" id="image05"></a><a href="images/image05-full.jpg"><img src="images/image05.jpg" width="366" height="458" alt="Photo of the the cathedral" title="EARLY APSIDAL CHAPEL WITH LATER CHAPEL SUPERIMPOSED." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Rev. J. Beanland, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">EARLY APSIDAL CHAPEL WITH LATER CHAPEL SUPERIMPOSED.</p> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span></p> + +<p>The former died at Ripon. Indeed, the Archbishops had been in the habit +of residing here since the end of the tenth century, and they duly +appear in Domesday Book as lords of the manor, of which the canons’ land +is apparently treated as a part. It is worthy of note that Domesday Book +records also the ‘soc’ jurisdiction and freedom from taxation which are +mentioned in the ‘Athelstan’ charters. The exemption also from the +king’s officers which is set forth in the same charters, was proved in +1106, when an attempted invasion of the liberties of the Church by the +Sheriff of York was successfully resisted by Archbishop Gerard before +arbitrators appointed by Henry I. This king also exempted the lands of +Ripon from castle-building, and granted to the Canons and the Archbishop +a fair at the feast of St. Wilfrid’s translation (April 24th). In the +next century fairs were also claimed for the feast of his <i>Depositio</i> +(October 12th), and for the feasts of St. Michael and of the Finding of +the Holy Cross.</p> + +<p><b>Archbishop Thomas II.</b> (1109-1114) founded the <b>Hospital of St. John the +Baptist</b>, and another Hospital, that <b>of St. Mary Magdalen</b>, of which the +chapel remains, was founded by his successor, <b>Archbishop Thurstan</b> +(1114-1141). Both these Hospitals were affiliated to the Church, and the +masterships were in the gift of the Archbishop. St. John’s afforded +shelter to poor travellers who came in through the forest which then +adjoined the town. When the forest was cleared, the endowment provided +exhibitions for a few poor boys, who lived here while they pursued their +studies in “grammar” (perhaps at the Grammar School), with a view to +becoming clerks. The two hospitals, and a third which was founded later, +were placed at three of the principal entrances to the town, with the +express intention, perhaps, of assisting the pilgrims who resorted to +the shrine of St. Wilfrid.</p> + +<p>Thurstan added one more canon to the staff by founding the prebend of +Sharow. He may also be called the founder of Fountains Abbey, which was +built on land assigned by him out of his domain of Ripon.</p> + +<p>In the troubles of the reign of Stephen, Ripon took no small share. When +the Scots descended into Yorkshire, nominally to aid the Empress Maud, +Thurstan sent against them all the levies which an archbishop, as a +feudal baron, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>could muster, including doubtless the men of his manor of +Ripon, and the victory which they won near Northallerton in 1138 is +known as the Battle of the Standard, from the banners of the three +mother-churches—Ripon, York, and Beverley—which waved over the English +army. Ripon was soon to experience the anarchy which prevailed toward +the end of the war. In 1140 Alan, Earl of Richmond, entrenched himself +on a neighbouring hill and grievously oppressed the town and its +inhabitants. Led by him, the large landholders in the neighbourhood +broke open the storehouses and granaries of the archbishop, and in 1143 +Earl Alan himself burst into the church with an armed band and attacked +Archbishop William Fitzherbert (afterwards St. William of York), who was +standing by St. Wilfrid’s shrine. The Archbishop’s offence may have been +that he was the king’s nephew. At any rate he was detested by the +Cistercians, who were strongly represented here by Fountains Abbey, and +Ripon seems to have sided with them, for in 1148, when Archbishop +William was temporarily deprived of his office, it was to Ripon that his +supplanter, Archbishop Murdac, retired when he durst not enter York. +Stephen confirmed to the College all the privileges granted by his +predecessors.</p> + +<p><b>Building of the Present Church.</b>—The reign of Henry II. is marked by +another rebuilding of the church. William was succeeded in 1154 (the +year of the king’s accession) by <b>Archbishop Roger de Pont l’Evêque</b> +(1154-1181). This prelate is known in politics for his opposition to +Thomas à Becket, and in art for his prominent share in the development +of our national architecture. There is perhaps no more important example +of the transition from the Norman to the Early English style than his +work at Ripon. With the exception of the crypt under the present +crossing, and of some Norman work south of the present choir, he rebuilt +the whole church, and history has recorded the wording of a deed in +which he gives “£1000 of the old coinage for the building of the +basilica ... which we have begun afresh.”<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> Roger’s church was a +cruciform building, and its nave had no aisles. A great portion of his +work remains—the two transepts, half of the central tower, and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>portions of the nave and choir. The plan (see below, <a href="#Page_67">p. 67</a>) was typical +of the early history of the place and of its subsequent conversion from +a monastery into a college of secular canons; for the aisleless +cruciform arrangement in churches was developed from a combination of +the Scottish type with the Roman or basilican, and the absence of aisles +was, or rather had been at a slightly earlier period, the recognized +mark of a secular as opposed to a monastic church. In giving aisles to +the choir Roger’s plan was singular, for it was not usual for a choir to +have aisles when the nave had none. Except by the addition of +nave-aisles, the dimensions of his plan (as Walbran remarked) have not +been materially exceeded; and Ripon is an example of the size to which +churches of canons often attained, in spite of the fact that their plan +was generally that of a mere parish church.</p> + +<p>The next archbishop, Geoffrey Plantagenet, was often in disagreement +with his brothers, Richard I. and John, but the manor of Ripon is said +to have been the only portion of his temporalities of which the latter +king did not deprive him.</p> + +<p>After Geoffrey’s death the see was vacant for nine years until 1216, the +year of the accession of Henry III., when it was given to <b>Archbishop +Walter de Gray</b> (1216-1255). In the same year ‘spiritual fraternity’ was +formally concluded between Ripon and Fountains; and a somewhat similar +arrangement was made a little later with Southwell, which since Henry I. +had shared with Ripon and Beverley the dignity of a mother-church or +pro-cathedral in the diocese of York. In 1224, at the request of the +Canons, Archbishop de Gray translated the relics of St. Wilfrid (if such +they were) to a new shrine, enshrining the head separately in such a way +that it was exposed to view. He also granted an indulgence of thirty +days to all who should make pilgrimage to the saint’s new resting-place. +This second translation never became a feast, but it doubtless +stimulated the cult of St. Wilfrid afresh, and probably brought +considerable profit to the Church.</p> + +<p>A few years later, at any rate, an important alteration was made in the +fabric, by the building of the present west front with its two flanking +towers, and the tall wooden and lead-covered spires which once crowned +the latter and the central tower were probably erected at this period.</p> + +<p>In 1230, the Archbishop founded a seventh prebend<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>—that of Stanwick; +and in 1241 sanctioned the addition of the parish of Nidd to the common +property of the College.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 371px;"> +<a name="image06" id="image06"></a><a href="images/image06-full.jpg"><img src="images/image06.jpg" width="371" height="448" alt="Photo of the the cathedral" title="THE WEST FRONT BEFORE SIR G. G. SCOTT’S RESTORATION." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE WEST FRONT BEFORE SIR G. G. SCOTT’S RESTORATION.</p> + +<p class="caption">(From an old print, by the kind permission of the Ripon Museum.)</p> +</div> + +<p>As yet, most of the prebends were distinguished by the names of the +Canons who held them, or of Saints; and it <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>was not till 1301 that they +were named after the principal hamlet or township in each—Stanwick, +Monkton, Givendale, Sharow, Nunwick, Studley, Thorp. They were all in +the neighbourhood except Stanwick, which was in the North Riding, near +Richmond. The Church was (as it still is) parochial as well as +collegiate. Each prebend carried with it a cure of souls, yet all +(except Stanwick) were included in the huge parish of Ripon, which +extended to Pateley Bridge, and in 1300 had a radius of nine or ten +miles. Thus the collegiate establishment differed from the usual type in +which each prebend was a separate parish with a church of its own. +Moreover, there was neither Dean nor Chancellor. The Canons may at first +have lived in common, but as early as 1301, and probably earlier, they +were dwelling in separate prebendal houses round the Church. There is no +evidence that they ever resided on their prebends, except in the case of +the Canon of Sharow, whose residence was at that place. The canonries, +having been founded by Archbishops of York, were in the gift of the see, +or of the Crown when the see was vacant. The Canon of Stanwick was <i>ex +officio</i> Ruler of the Choir, whence his obligation to reside in Ripon in +spite of the remoteness of his prebend, which was served by a vicar. +Similarly the Canon of Monkton was always Treasurer, and had charge of +the Chapter-house, the ornaments and plate, and the High Altar.</p> + +<p>The revenues of the church may be divided as usual under three heads. +There was a Common Fund, arising from certain rents, tithes, fees, and +oblations; a survival perhaps of a time when the Canons lived in common. +Secondly, there were the revenues drawn by the Canons from their +respective prebends, and consisting partly of rents, but chiefly of +tithes. The prebend of Stanwick was worth about twice as much as any +other. Thirdly, there was the Fabric Fund, arising from certain rents, +oblations,<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> and licences, from the profits of St. Wilfrid’s +burning-iron (with which cattle were branded to keep off murrain),<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> +and, in later days, of the pok-stone (which was probably regarded as in +some way a preventive against the ‘pokkes’ of sheep and cattle); but +especially from the farm <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>of indulgences. When much building was in +progress the Canons’ incomes were afterwards specially taxed, and once +or twice Peter’s-pence were actually withheld from the Pope and devoted +to architectural purposes.</p> + +<p>At the time of Archbishop de Gray, the old and somewhat vague +jurisdictions in and about Ripon had become more distinct. The parish +was a Peculiar,<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> and as such was exempt from the authority of the +Archdeacon of Richmond, either by tradition from the days when the +church was a monastery, or because of the presence here of the +Archbishops. Over this Peculiar (the laity included) the Chapter +exercised the spiritual jurisdiction of an archdeacon’s court, assisted +by the Rural Dean of Ripon, who sat as ‘Dean of Christianity.’ This +‘Court Christian’ dealt with testamentary and matrimonial cases, cases +of defamation, immorality, neglect of religious duties, etc. Accused +persons cleared themselves by compurgation, or underwent penalties +(commutable, however), such as being beaten, walking barefoot in the +processions, suspension <i>ab ingressu ecclesiæ</i>, or excommunication.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> +Lesser offences were dealt with by an archbishop’s officer called +<i>penitentiarius</i>, who heard confessions and enjoined penances. The +Archbishop was Ordinary of the Peculiar. He held visitations in the +Chapter-house, and could order repairs of buildings, make statutes (in +consultation with the Chapter) for the College, and sequestrate its +revenues. He also exercised authority over offending Canons and over the +inferior clergy of the staff, though the correction of these belonged +primarily to the Chapter and especially to the Canon of Stanwick.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 377px;"> +<a name="image07" id="image07"></a><a href="images/image07-full.jpg"><img src="images/image07.jpg" width="377" height="600" alt="Three medieval seals" title="MEDIÆVAL SEALS." /></a> +<p class="caption">MEDIÆVAL SEALS.</p> + +<p class="caption">1. Seal of the Mediæval Chapter.<br /> +2. Capitular Seal “ad causas.”<br /> +3. Common Seal of the Vicars.</p> +</div> + +<p>For purposes of secular jurisdiction Ripon, with the lands round it, was +a Liberty, exempt, that is, from the authority of the Sheriff. The +Liberty was almost co-extensive with the Peculiar. Within it were two +secular jurisdictions, that of the Archbishop as lord of the manor, and +that of the Chapter, which embraced the southern half of the town and +many country districts, and which may have originated either with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"><br />[21]</a></span> +Ealdred’s presumable gifts of land out of the manor to form prebends, or +(as the charters pretend) from a grant of Athelstan, or perhaps from an +original independence enjoyed by the church as a monastery. The Chapter +claimed within their sphere the rights attributed to Athelstan’s grant, +and also assize of bread, ale, weights and measures; dues of fairs and +markets; certain feudal dues; power over masterless goods, and to deal +with cases of rent, wrongful detention of land, and theft; <i>cognitio de +falso judicio</i>; execution of royal writs; ‘sheriff-tourn’; coroners of +their own; in fact the powers of a sheriff and of the justices-in-eyre, +with a prison and the right of gaol-delivery, and even of inflicting +capital punishment. In cases of homicide, however, a king’s justice must +sit as assessor. For civil suits there was a provision against ‘wager of +battle,’ and the accused again cleared themselves by compurgation. +Archbishop de Gray claimed similar privileges, but wished to exercise +them over the whole Liberty, on the ground that the church and its +appurtenances were part of his manor (as indeed they very possibly were, +originally). Unlike Archbishop Gerard, who had supported the church’s +privilege against the sheriff, de Gray actually joined the sheriff in +invading it. In 1228 the case came before the king’s justices in the +Chapter-house at Ripon, and the decision was for the Chapter. Thus the +division of jurisdictions received from the State an undoubted sanction. +Within his sphere the Archbishop appointed his own justices, but on +arriving at the limits of that sphere, the king’s justices sat with them +there on the first day, and were afterwards admitted to sit with them in +the town. The Archbishops claimed also that their commissioners should +administer the oath of obedience at the mile-limit to those who sought +sanctuary. The Archbishops are also said to have had a ‘military court,’ +probably a feudal institution.</p> + +<p>The memory of de Gray was perhaps held in scant respect at Ripon. He is +accused by Matthew Paris of having refused to distribute his corn during +a famine, and it was through the erection of Bishopthorpe Palace by him +that Ripon ceased to be a favourite provincial residence of the +Archbishops. Nevertheless they still frequently visited the town, both +for sport and duty. They had a park “six miles in compass,” and the +fishing in the Ure. The existence, moreover, of a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>prison here for +criminous clerks made the minster a convenient place for the public +degradations which the Archbishop was obliged to hold from time to time. +On these occasions the offending clerks were brought across to the +church, where the Archbishop in full pontificals would hear their avowal +of guilt in the nave, and then solemnly divest them of their robes and +of their office at the west door.</p> + +<p>In 1270 came the first echo from the outside world since the reign of +Stephen. Prince Edward was setting out on a crusade, and Archbishop +Giffard was compelled to exact from the Chapter a twentieth of their +temporalities. The town had now attained to some importance, and sent +two members to the Model Parliament of 1295.</p> + +<p>As yet the minster of Archbishop Roger had suffered no change in its +main fabric save the rebuilding of the west front, but an alteration was +now to be made at the other extremity also, and the eastern portion of +the choir was rebuilt with all the elaboration of the Decorated style. +Of this work the greater part was probably effected under <b>Archbishop +John Romanus</b> (1286-1296).</p> + +<p>In 1293 the almost cathedral rank of the church was marked by the +consecration within its walls of a bishop (of Galloway). It was, as has +been said, the parish church of the huge parish of Ripon. Yet the town +itself possessed at an early period a separate parish church of +Allhallows, a memory of which survives in ‘Allhallowgate.’<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> There was +also an old chapel of the Virgin called the ‘Lady-kirk,’ in +‘Stammergate,’ and there were chapels at the two hospitals and the +palace. But there were at first few if any places of worship in the +surrounding country, and the most remote of the parishioners had been +obliged to repair Ripon. This state of things led to the erection of +district chapels by the larger landholders under the sanction of the +Chapter, as early as the twelfth century, and of these chapels there +were eventually at least sixteen.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>The parishioners, however, still assembled at Ripon on certain feasts, +notably Christmas, Good Friday, Easter, Ascension, Whitsuntide, and the +feasts of St. Wilfrid’s death (October 12th) and translation (April +24th), to which was added later a feast of his nativity, observed on the +Sunday after Lammas Day, and in the parish of Ripon only.<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> On St. +Wilfrid’s feasts the privilege of sanctuary was extended beyond the +mile-limit to all who visited the mother-church, and the penalty for +molestation without the limit was £6. On Easter Day all the parishioners +received the Communion in the minster,<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> and on that day, on Christmas +Day, and on the feast of St. Wilfrid’s nativity, the district chaplains +attended in their copes. Very picturesque, too, must have been the +miracle-plays at Easter, Christmas, and Epiphany; the great fairs; the +solemn processions, especially at Rogation-tide, when the relics of the +Saint were borne in state by representatives of the greater tenants of +the church, and attended by the sanctuary-men carrying staves with +banners. It is probable that once a year (perhaps at Whitsuntide) the +church was visited by clergy and laity from the whole of that division +of the diocese to which Ripon was the mother-church. Such annual +visitations were the especial privilege of mother-churches, and were a +great source of profit.</p> + +<p>Underneath all this pageantry, however, there was much that was +unsatisfactory in the internal affairs of the college. In the thirteenth +century even more than afterwards, the great difficulty in the working +of secular colleges was non-residence. The Canons were often pluralists, +or foreigners appointed under pressure from the Pope or the king, who +provided in this way for prominent civil servants. A canon would often +leave his prebend in the spiritual charge of a vicar engaged by the +year, or under the administration of a proctor, or would even farm it +out—sometimes to a layman. Sometimes a canon was suspected of being a +layman himself, or a married man. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>proctors or lessees dismissed or +appointed vicars at their pleasure. The prebendal houses fell into +disrepair, and in some cases a plot had been assigned, but no house had +been built. Some canons at this period resigned their stalls after an +extremely short tenure, or changed from one stall to another.</p> + +<p><b>Archbishop Thomas de Corbridge</b> (1299-1303) addressed himself to the +reform of these evils. He ordered the Canons to look to their prebendal +houses. He tried to control their acceptance of benefices in plurality. +He forbade them to farm their prebends to any but brother-canons except +with his licence. It was he who gave the prebends their territorial +names. Most important of all, he decreed in 1303 that the cure of souls +in each prebend was to be entrusted to a vicar-perpetual. The collegiate +system was indeed breaking down, and the Vicars henceforth were almost +as important a body as the Canons, whom they relieved of all +responsibility for the parochial work and the performance of the +services. Except the Vicar of Stanwick, they all lived at Ripon, and in +1304 one Nicholas de Bondgate provided them with a common residence, +which became known as the Bedern<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> (whence ‘Bedern Bank’). The office +of <i>penitentiarius</i> or of rural dean was often held by one of them. +Besides the seven Canons and the six Vicars in Ripon, there were three +deacons, three sub-deacons, six thuriblers, and six choristers, and the +full officiating staff thus amounted to thirty-one, exclusive of the +chantry priests, of whom, however, there were as yet but few.</p> + +<p>The successor of Archbishop de Corbridge was an ex-Canon of Ripon, +<b>William Greenfield</b> (<b>Archbishop</b> 1304-1315). He rebuilt the chapel of the +Palace and founded a chantry in it. It was at Ripon that he put forth, +with additions of his own, certain rules against clerical abuses which +he had borrowed from the diocese of Chichester. He found indeed much to +reform. Already the vicariate was becoming demoralized. Vicars and +inferior clergy were addicted to shows and sports, to dances and +stage-plays. A chaplain invented a gambling game called “ding-thrifts.” +What wonder that the laity, then, begged at the altars under pretence of +being proctors of absent canons, or intruded into the choir during +service—a privilege reserved for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>the great? And another privilege of +rank had been invaded also, for the Archbishop had to direct that only +great persons and benefactors were to be buried within the minster. In +1310 two women fought in the graveyard so savagely that it had to be +reconsecrated. In his last year the Archbishop had to restrain the +proctors of absent canons from acting independently in the +administration of the prebends, and from exercising capitular authority.</p> + +<p>These internal difficulties, however, were presently forgotten in a new +danger from without. Already, in 1298, Archbishop de Newark had called +upon the Chapter to assist in providing cavalry for Edward I.’s campaign +against John Balliol, King of Scots. The King himself is said to have +visited the town in 1300. In 1315 the Chapter had sent a representative +to a council held by Archbishop Greenfield at Doncaster to consider the +defence of the realm. Since Bannockburn the Scots had been raiding the +northern counties, and in 1316 Edward II. ordered Ripon to provide +maintenance for Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, who was to pass +through on his way to check the raids. In March 1318 the town sent a +contingent to the King’s forces, and the money, together with a banner +of St. Wilfrid, was provided by <b>Archbishop William de Melton</b> +(1317-1340). In May of the same year the Scots descended upon Ripon +itself. They might have spared the place, for in 1297 it had been the +temporary home of the mother of Robert Bruce, now King of Scotland, but +no consideration was shown. As there were no town walls, the inhabitants +fled to the minster and fortified it. For three days their homes were +given over to plunder, and the enemy demanded one thousand marks as the +price of a promise not to burn the town altogether. Even the Archbishop +urged the townsmen to pay this blackmail lest further damage should be +done, but such a sum could not be raised in a moment, and during either +this or a subsequent visit the Scots did much damage to the church. The +prebends suffered to the extent of over 150 marks, and the hospitals +were much crippled. Nor was any satisfaction to be had, save by solemnly +excommunicating the enemy on Sundays and festivals. It was probably in +consequence of the havoc wrought that in 1322 Parliament, which had been +summoned to meet at Ripon, met at York instead.</p> + +<p>Thrice again after 1318 were forces levied in the Liberty <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>against the +Scots—in 1327, in 1333, and in 1342, when Edward III. even offered +pardon to the sanctuary-men if they would serve.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile Archbishop de Melton had been promoting the repair of the +minster, a task which included probably the renewal of the spires, the +roof, the stained glass, and the woodwork. In 1331-2 he issued some +important statutes for the College. Hitherto each Canon (except the +Canon of Stanwick) had received an annual dividend out of the Common +Fund. Of this fund, a large portion which had always gone to furnish +these dividends (or a part of them) was now appropriated exclusively to +canons willing to reside. Thus a premium was put upon residence, which +was fixed at twelve weeks in the year (not necessarily continuous), and +a distinction was admitted between resident and non-resident canons. +Again, the Common Fund was now to be charged with the salaries of the +Vicars, who had hitherto been precariously paid by the Canons their +masters.</p> + +<p><b>Archbishop John de Thoresby</b> (1352-1373) added to the prebend of Studley +the two districts of Dacre and Bewerley, and it was probably about this +time that the Lady-chapel (now the Library) was built. In 1375 some part +of the church was burnt, and in 1396-7 the central spire seems to have +been rebuilt. The town had now recovered its prosperity, for in 1405 it +became the residence of the Court, when King Henry IV. was driven from +Westminster by a plague. The next reign is marked by an improvement in +the status of the Vicars. They had been living dispersed over the +town,—indeed, their common residence or Bedern is said to have been +destroyed by the Scots.</p> + +<p>In 1415, therefore, <b>Archbishop Henry Bowet</b> (1407-1423), having obtained +from Henry V. a charter with a dispensation of the Statute of Mortmain, +gave a site out of his manor for a new Bedern; and the vicars +themselves, who at this period are commended by both the Archbishop and +the King, were at the same time formed into a corporate body having a +common seal, and were allowed to elect from their number a Provost. +Under this Archbishop there were several instances of canons exchanging +their stalls for other benefices. The discipline of the staff seems to +have become exceedingly lax by 1439. The church music was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>neglected. +The Mass of Our Lady was not said regularly in the Lady-chapel. The +inferior clergy did not study for their examinations, and wore daggers +in the Choir. They and the vicars frequented taverns, walked about the +nave during service, and absented themselves without leave. The Canons +did not attend church in their habits, and the clergy generally indulged +in field sports.</p> + +<p><b>Archbishop John Kemp</b> (1426-1452) did what he could to reform these +abuses, and effected some improvement (the nature of which is not clear) +in the status of the Vicars, who had been badly treated by the Chapter +in financial matters. Later in this century a chantry chaplain is found +engaging in dishonest trade; priests fight; laymen assault one another +in the minster during service. But mediæval morality in general must not +be condemned, of course, for a few recorded crimes.</p> + +<p>About 1450 the south-east corner of the central tower gave way, and so +unsafe was the church that service had to be held in the Lady-kirk. In +consequence of this disaster the Canons were obliged to rebuild not only +the south and east sides of the tower, but also the east side of the +south transept, and eventually part of the south side of the Choir; and +it is evident that they would have rebuilt the two remaining sides of +the tower, had they not been prevented by the Dissolution. The present +rood screen and canopied stalls were put in toward the close of the +fifteenth century. In 1502 the Lady-kirk (in which a chantry had been +founded in 1392) was handed over by the Chapter to Archbishop Savage, +who in turn transferred it to Fountains Abbey. Abbot Huby, intending to +make it a colony of Cistercians, rebuilt the east end of it, and +enclosed part of its graveyard with a fine stone wall having a +strongly-marked base. Of this wall a great part remains in St. +Mary-gate. A large doorway in it has been built up. The Lady-kirk itself +has vanished long ago.</p> + +<p>At this time was begun the greatest architectural enterprise that had +been undertaken at Ripon since the twelfth century, namely, the +rebuilding of the nave of the minster. The Transitional nave, it was +said, had become ruinous through age and storms, but the real motive for +its destruction was probably an ambition to enlarge the building. The +enlargement of aisleless churches was usually begun by the addition of a +single aisle, and that on the north side (since the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>south was usually +the side of the graveyard); but at Ripon the south aisle was built +first, perhaps because it was always intended that there should be two +aisles—an arrangement which there were no cloisters here to prevent. +The work was begun in 1502 or 1503. Delayed by a plague in 1506, it was +almost complete, as Leland’s <i>Itinerary</i> shows,<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> when he visited the +town about 1538, but the aisles had not yet been vaulted when the +Dissolution came, and had wooden roofs until our own time. Irreparable +as is the loss of Archbishop Roger’s nave, its successor must surely be +placed among the great naves of the Perpendicular period—and it is the +latest of them. The work was furthered by <b>Archbishop Savage</b> (1501-1507) +and by <b>Cardinal Archbishop Bainbridge</b> (1508-1514), and two canons must +especially be mentioned in connection with it, Andrew Newman, appointed +Master of the Fabric in 1502, and <b>Marmaduke Bradley</b>, who was paymaster, +and who was connected with the repairs after the failure of the central +tower, and gave up to the fabric a large portion of his fees for +residence. The last work done before the Reformation was probably the +rebuilding of the three westernmost bays on the south side of the choir, +which had been weakened doubtless by the accident to the central tower.</p> + +<p>By this time the church contained nine chantries, namely, those of St. +Andrew (founded 1234); of the Holy Trinity <i>supra summum altare</i> (1345); +of St. John the Evangelist and St. John the Baptist (1364); of St. James +(1407-8); of Our Lady ‘in the Church’ (1408); of St. Thomas of +Canterbury (1418); of the Holy Trinity <i>subtus altare</i> (1466); of Our +Lady ‘in the Lady-loft’; and of St. Wilfrid (? 1420). In some of these, +other chantries had been merged. There were also four or five chantries +in various chapels in the parish. The chantry-chaplains were not +strictly on the staff, but helped on Sundays and festivals. As their +chantries did not give them sufficient occupation, they sometimes held +in addition such offices as that of Proctor of an absent canon, Curator +of the Fabric, Sub-Precentor, Sub-Treasurer, or Chamberlain, the holder +of this post being the chief financial officer of the community.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>On the eve of the Reformation the discipline of the staff was again very +unsatisfactory, chiefly through the influence of the Treasurer, Canon +Christopher Dragley, who employed the vestry clerks on his private +business, disposed of chantries prematurely, and encouraged the Vicars, +who were now living dispersed, to be insubordinate. It was the custom +for choir and clergy to adjourn after Prime to the Chapter-house, where +the martyrology for the day was read and notices were given out. Here, +too, once a week sat the Chapter Court. But Dragley was able to hinder +all this by keeping the door locked. From 1533 to 1539 he was Treasurer, +Canon Residentiary, and President of the Chapter, and the general laxity +was largely due to this concentration of authority in the hands of one +bad man through non-residence. The case of Dragley drew several decrees +from <b>Archbishop Edward Lee</b> (1531-1544):—that no vicar should be +appointed without the consent of a majority in Chapter; that the Chapter +seal must be kept by three people; that one canon must no longer form a +quorum (as hitherto) in the Chapter Court, and as a question had arisen +whether the powers of the Chapter were not entirely vested in the +canons-resident,<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> it was laid down that the latter were indeed +competent to dispose of certain chantries and other offices, and to +exercise the Chapter’s spiritual jurisdiction, but that in most other +matters the whole body must be consulted. As most of them were always +absent, this means, perhaps, that they were represented in Chapter by +their proctors. There is an instance in 1546 of the Vicars, chantry +priests, and deacons being allowed to take part in a Chapter meeting.</p> + +<p>An attack on relics was begun in 1538, and it was probably about this +date that the shrine of St. Wilfrid was destroyed. In 1539 came the +suppression of Fountains Abbey, the abbot who surrendered it being no +other than Marmaduke Bradley. He had been Abbot since 1536, holding his +canonry at Ripon at the same time, and after the suppression of the +Abbey, he became once more a power at Ripon. As sole residentiary in +1544, 1545, and 1546, he appears to have used his influence well, and +played a prominent part in the last architectural opera<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>tions before the +Dissolution. The old system of sanctuary, suited only to times when the +State was weak, seems to have died out about this period. In 1545 came +an Act for the dissolution of chantries and hospitals. As ‘Supreme Head +of the Church’ Henry VIII. renewed the visitatorial authority of the +Archbishops, and both he and Edward VI. confirmed the ecclesiastical +jurisdiction of the Chapter. But the end was imminent. In 1547 the +College was dissolved,<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> and its revenues were annexed to the Duchy of +Lancaster. There had been attached to the church for centuries a <b>Grammar +School</b>, for which the Chapter had claimed a monopoly of education within +the Parish and Liberty, forbidding in 1468 the establishment of any +other school without their special licence. This ancient seminary was +apparently dissolved, and a new grammar school independent of the church +was founded by Edward VI., whose benefaction was completed by Mary, the +endowment being provided from the revenues of four of the late +chantries. There had also been a Song-school, but it was perhaps merely +a room in which boys of the Grammar School were trained to be +choristers. Out of the confiscated revenues one or more clergy were paid +to minister to the parish, but under Mary the old state of things was in +some measure brought back. There was once more a Chamberlain, whose +accounts show much the same items as do those of his mediæval +predecessors, and the old religion was restored; indeed, there were six +altars in the church.</p> + +<p>Under Elizabeth there was a return to the arrangement of Edward, the +clergy (now as many as five in number) being denominated vicars. +Archbishop Sandys (1577-1588), Lord Burleigh, Richard Hooker, Moses +Fowler (afterwards the first Dean), and others tried to bring about the +establishment of a theological college in the Bedern, and an increase of +the endowments of the church, but in vain. The town must have lost all +favour in 1569, by taking part in the Rising in the North. It was +visited by the rebel earls of Northumberland and Westmorland, many of +the townsmen and local gentry joining them, and for the last time the +minster witnessed the celebration of the Mass. On the collapse of the +rebellion, a number of those who had taken up arms were hanged at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> Ripon +in sight of their homes, and the church suffered much damage from the +Queen’s soldiery, who stripped the lead from the roof. Like the +Pilgrimage of Grace in 1536, this Rising was a protest against the +Reformation, and the records of Archbishop Young (1561-1568), and of the +Court of High Commission (1580), show that the people of Ripon still +clung to the old religion. The pillage of Henry and Edward had no doubt +destroyed most of the ornaments of the church, but some still remained +or had been renewed under Mary, and the clergy displayed a marked +reluctance in removing them; ‘Images,’ even when removed, were concealed +in private houses. One vicar named Thomas Blackburne had continued the +old practice of holding churchings in the Lady-chapel, and was ordered +publicly to renounce this error, as well as that of having left “that +olde, abhominable, and supersticious vawte called the Wilfride’s +nedle<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> and the alter therein” undefaced. One townsman is punished for +having taken part in the Mass during the late Rising. The clergy +generally were unclerical in dress and lax in their performance of the +reformed services, which the parishioners showed a corresponding +unwillingness to attend, while the old fasts and festivals were not +wholly given up.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 584px;"> +<a name="image08" id="image08"></a><a href="images/image08-full.png"><img src="images/image08.png" width="584" height="399" alt="Drawing of the cathedral" title="RIPON MINSTER ANTERIOR TO 1660." /></a> +<p class="caption">RIPON MINSTER ANTERIOR TO 1660.</p> + +<p class="captionl">Note.—This representation much resembles that engraved on the old +communion plate. As a view of Ripon Minster, it affords an instance of +the inaccuracy of old architectural drawings; but it shows, at any rate, +the effect of the spires.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>The Chapter revived.</b>—On the accession of <b>James I.</b> a second futile +attempt was made to obtain for Ripon a theological college.<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> The +influence, however, of the queen, <b>Anne of Denmark</b>, gained from the king +a greater boon, and in 1604 he re-established the Chapter. Under the new +constitution there were six prebendaries, and for the first time a Dean. +Much of the old endowments was restored, but the new stalls could not be +identified with the old territorial prebends, and were therefore +distinguished as ‘the first stall,’ ‘the second stall,’ and so on. After +1607 the Prebendaries were empowered to elect a Sub-Dean. The cure of +souls was discharged by two vicars, and the choir was composed of six +lay-clerks and six choristers. The parish remained a Peculiar. The +spiritual jurisdiction of the Chapter and the Archbishop had been +somewhat restricted by the Reformation, and the secular jurisdiction of +the Liberty—especially in criminal cases—had been partly transferred +to the king’s itinerant justices.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"><br />[33]</a></span> The Archbishop, however, still +retained some criminal jurisdiction and also his ‘Court Military,’ +which, strange to say, came to hear civil cases. During the latter half +of the fifteenth century the secular cases heard by the Chapter had been +chiefly cases of debt, and under the new constitution they were +authorized to hold a court, which was called the Canon Fee Court, for +cases of debt and other civil cases. Some obscurity exists as to the +mediæval relation of the Archbishop to the town. There was, of course, a +town council, and its president the Wakeman<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> (an official peculiar to +Ripon) had charge of what would now be called the town police. The +ancient town bridges (of which only one remains) were under the charge +of the Archbishop. During the sixteenth century the borough constitution +had been the subject of disputes, in which Cardinal Wolsey had been +concerned in 1517 and Archbishop Hutton in 1598. James I. therefore now +granted a new Charter, under which the Wakeman became a Mayor; and +henceforth the borough had also an independent court of its own. The +dissolution of the Chapter in 1547, coming as it did upon the decay of +the manufacture of woollen cloth, had been a great blow to the +prosperity of the inhabitants,<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> and it was no wonder that when James +visited the town in 1617 he received an ovation.</p> + +<p>In 1625 a plague, such as had not occurred here since 1546, prevented +the country folk from approaching the minster, and obliged them to have +their children baptized in the fields.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> Several changes in the +surroundings of the church took place at this time. The Bedern, with its +quadrangle, hall, and chapel, had been demolished by 1625, in which year +the Deanery was erected, perhaps upon its site. Of the old prebendal +houses some had been sold, or let; others, perhaps, were occupied by the +Prebendaries of the new foundation. In 1629 the ancient Palace, which +stood to the north of the minster and west of the Deanery, was turned +into a poor-house. The town (and doubtless the minster) was visited in +1633 by Charles I. on his way to his coronation at Edinburgh.<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> A few +years later he was to pass through again, a captive on his way to Holmby +House.</p> + +<p>Ripon had escaped the Wars of the Roses, but it was not unscathed by the +Great Rebellion, for in 1643 it was occupied by Sir Thomas Mauleverer, a +Parliamentary officer, whose soldiery broke into the minster and +shattered the magnificent glass in the great east window, and doubtless +much other glass besides. At the end of the war the manorial rights were +sold to Lord Fairfax, and the Chapter was again dissolved, “one who +called himself Dr. Richardson” being “appointed to preach in the minster +by the Parliament, tho’ in all probability he was never in any Orders, +Presbyterian or Episcopal.”<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> The Chapter was revived at the +Restoration, but all its members were new save one.</p> + +<p>In the same year (1660) the central spire, which had been injured by +lightning in 1593, fell through the roof, wrecking many of the beautiful +canopies of the stalls. The damage to the choir and other parts of the +church, estimated at £6000, was repaired with money raised under a brief +from Charles II., but the spire was never rebuilt, and in 1664, to avoid +any further catastrophe, the western spires, though sound, were +deliberately removed.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> The place of the spires <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>was ill supplied by +the erection of battlements and pinnacles, which were renewed in 1797.</p> + +<p>It was perhaps at this period that the west gate of the precincts was +pulled down—a mediæval structure which contained at least seven rooms, +and which stood at the bottom of Kirkgate. The graveyard in the middle +ages contained a cross, at which a service was held on Palm Sunday; +also, possibly, a mortuary chapel and a well associated with St. +Wilfrid—(not, of course, the St. Wilfrid’s well which now fills the +public baths). Of these things there is now not a trace, save, perhaps, +the stump of the cross, near the south wall of the nave. Nor are there +any undoubted remains of the mediæval wall which enclosed the precincts, +except the fragment with an archway in it, which still forms the +southern entrance. The mediæval prisons, which belonged respectively to +the Archbishop and the Chapter, have long vanished, as has also that +which appertained to the Court of Canon Fee, but there is a Liberty +prison of some age in ‘Stammergate.’ Most of the archiepiscopal palace +had disappeared by 1830, but there was still a portion which was used as +the court-house of the Liberty. In that year this was pulled down, and +the present court-house was built upon the site. A memory of the Palace +survives in ‘Hall Yard,’ and there still remains what is, perhaps, a +remnant of the actual fabric, in the shape of an old cottage with an +external staircase, which stands behind the wall to the west of the +public garden that fronts the north side of the church. In the +above-mentioned wall is an Early English doorway, with a dripstone +adorned with the nailhead moulding. The door has a flat-arched wooden +frame, the spandrels of which are carved with <i>fleurs-de-lys</i>, while the +wooden tympanum above has Perpendicular panelling. This doorway is not, +perhaps, a relic of the Palace. It is not in its original position, and +indeed is said to have come originally from St. Mary Magdalene’s +Hospital. Several of the old houses adjoining the Cathedral on the south +side, and along St. Agnes-gate, may possibly have been inhabited by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> +Prebendaries of the Second Collegiate foundation, but the stone-roofed +house adjoining Bondgate Green Bridge is the only one in Ripon which can +be identified with a mediæval prebend—that of Thorp, and even here the +existing fabric can scarcely be pre-Reformation. St. John’s +Hospital,<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> whose inmates for several centuries have been women, was +unfortunately rebuilt in 1869, but the modern chapel (served by one of +the cathedral clergy) retains a bell of 1663. The old Grammar +School,<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> which stood at the foot of the steps from St. Agnes-gate to +the Minster, has been pulled down since 1872.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the Minster itself had been undergoing restoration—in 1829 +and the following years at the hands of Blore, when upwards of £3000 +were spent, and from 1862 to 1870 at the hands of Sir G. Gilbert Scott, +and at a cost of about £30,000.</p> + +<p>From the eighth century up to 1836 Ripon had been in the diocese of +York. In that year was created the modern diocese of Ripon, and the +church thus attained to cathedral rank. It had, however, always had some +pretension to that rank, not merely as a mother-church but because (up +to 1836) the Archbishops had their throne in the choir; indeed, it is +styled a cathedral in documents of 1537 and 1546. The diocese is +composed of parts of Yorkshire taken from the sees of York and Chester, +and included Wakefield, Leeds, Bradford, Halifax and Huddersfield, until +in 1888 a portion including Halifax and Huddersfield was taken away to +form part of a new diocese of Wakefield. There are three archdeaconries: +those of Richmond, Ripon, and Craven. The first is a survival, in a +diminished form, of the ancient archdeaconry of the same name; the +others are modern; the last is the only one which is held without a +canonry. In accordance with the Act of 1840, the Sub-Deanery has been +suppressed, the Prebendaries have been reduced to four, and their style +has been changed to that of Canons. In 1841, provision was made for the +appointment of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> Canons honorary. There is also a precentor, and three +other clergy who act as minor canons, and assist him in discharging the +cure of souls—for though the huge mediæval parish has been gradually +divided into many, the greater portion of the city itself is still +served from the cathedral church. The choir is composed of six +lay-clerks and twelve choristers. There was as late as 1890 a +Choir-school, but most of the present choristers come from Jepson’s +Hospital—a charity which was founded in 1672, in Water Skellgate, and +the old buildings of which were pulled down in 1878.</p> + +<p>There are still some relics of the ancient jurisdictions of the Chapter +and the Archbishop. Though the secular jurisdiction has been gradually +reduced by legislation to the scope of Quarter and Petty Sessions, the +Liberty has Quarter Sessions of its own, and its justices are still +nominated by the Archbishop, while his Court Military survived at any +rate into the nineteenth century. A copyhold court, called the Canon Fee +Court, is also still held by the Chapter. As regards ecclesiastical +jurisdiction, the mediæval right of the Chapter to hear testamentary and +matrimonial cases (which were not taken away from the ecclesiastical +courts till 1857) probably survived at least until the abolition of the +Peculiar. Peculiars, with but one or two exceptions, had ceased to exist +by 1850, and Ripon, once exempt from archidiaconal authority, is now +itself an archdeaconry. The Bishop of Ripon has, of course, his +Consistory court, which is held at the Cathedral.</p> + +<p>In ending this account of one of the most venerable of English churches, +it is worth while to remark that, of the four mother-churches of the old +diocese of York, Ripon is the only one besides York Cathedral itself +which still has a collegiate foundation.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 524px;"> +<a name="image09" id="image09"></a><a href="images/image09-full.jpg"><img src="images/image09.jpg" width="524" height="362" alt="Photo of the the cathedral" title="THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE SOUTH-EAST." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.</p> +</div> + + +<div class="footnotes"> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The archbishopric of York arose out of the bishopric of +Northumbria in the eighth century.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The name in this form is modern. In common speech the +street is always ‘Stammergate,’ which is probably a corruption of +‘Stanbriggate.’ The latter is the original name of the street, and +appears frequently in mediæval records. It has reference to a stone +bridge over a brook where the gas-works now are. The continuation of +this street toward the Cathedral is called St. Mary-gate, but this name +again seems to be modern, and to have arisen from a notion that ‘St. +Mary-gate’ is the origin of the word ‘Stammergate’—a notion which would +be rendered more plausible by the fact that this was the situation of +the Lady-kirk.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The question whether his monastery church stood over the +Saxon crypt which exists below the present Cathedral is reserved for +Chap. III.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> For the place of Ripon in the theory of the direct +connection of Saxon architecture with the Comacine Guild of Italy, see +<i>The Cathedral Builders</i>, by Leader Scott, p. 139 <i>sqq.</i></p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> An MS. which has been thought to be identical with +Wilfrid’s gift came into the market recently, and has passed to +America.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The Saint’s return after his long exile is still +commemorated at Ripon, early in August, on the first Saturday after +Lammas Day, when a man dressed as a Saxon bishop and riding a grey horse +is escorted through the streets.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> This liturgical term sometimes refers to the <i>burial</i> of a +saint, sometimes, as here, to the <i>death</i>.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> There is also mention of an Abbot Tylberht, but he may be +the same as Tatberht.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> <i>I.e.</i>, ‘Elves-how’—‘the hill of fairies.’ Coins of Aella +and other early kings have been found in the hill.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> At a later period the Chapter claimed also that <a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a>‘St. +Wilfrid’s men’ need not pay tolls when travelling on business through +the realm, and on one occasion they issued to a Ripon clerk a kind of +passport.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Frisia’s debt was remembered in the seventeenth century, +when one of the Canons of Antwerp wrote an account of Ripon monastery +for his countrymen.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Until Walbran drew attention to this passage, the +rebuilding was attributed to Thurstan.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Especially at St. Wilfrid’s shrine.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> It has been suggested that this was the iron which in +Saxon times had been used for the ordeal of fire.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> A Peculiar is a district taken out of its geographical +surroundings for purposes of ecclesiastical jurisdiction (<i>Sir W. +Anson</i>).</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> In later times (at any rate) the Archbishop apparently had +a spiritual court of his own. A Chapter minute of 1467 declares a +certain person accused of a spiritual offence to be “non de foro +Capituli sed de foro Archiepiscopi, unde litteræ correctionis +emanârunt.”</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> This church had disappeared, as Leland tells us, long +before his visit to Ripon, which took place about 1538. The dates of its +erection and demolition are both unknown. In the Chapter-house is +preserved a key which has been assigned to the fifteenth century, and +which has been thought to have belonged to Allhallows, but it is thought +that the church disappeared at an early date.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> This Sunday is still called Wilfrid Sunday at Ripon. The +Saturday preceding it is the day on which the town commemorates the +Saint’s return from his first appeal to Rome. The season is regarded as +a holiday, and another relic of the nativity festival survives in the +fair held on the Thursday after August 2nd.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> The Easter Communion has survived till our own day. Within +living memory, and at a period when Early Celebrations were not usual, +it was celebrated at 7 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, and people drove in from the outlying +places.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> This word is probably connected with the Anglo-Saxon +‘béd,’ a prayer (whence ‘bedesmen’), and means a ‘house of prayer.’ In +one passage of the records it is rendered in Latin by <i>proseucha</i>.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> It was Walbran, again, who drew attention to Leland’s +phraseology here.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> The Canon of Stanwick was always in Ripon, but was not +considered technically a canon-resident. Perhaps he was not entitled to +the special fees for residence. He had, however, full capitular rights. +These had been denied to him by Dragley, but were now restored by the +Archbishop.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> If the Ripon hospitals were dissolved they were +re-established, for they are still fulfilling their purpose.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> <i>I.e.</i>, the Saxon crypt.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> The project is being realized in our own day.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> <i>I.e.</i>, the watchman, or setter of the watch. The town +motto is, “Except the Lord keep the city, the <i>Wakeman</i> waketh in vain.” +After 1598 a horn was blown every evening to denote the setting of the +watch. If any house was robbed between horn-blowing and sunrise, +compensation could be claimed from the town. To support this system a +small tax was levied on each house-door, and if a house had two doors it +paid more, as being more liable to be robbed. A relic of the system +still survives. Every night a horn is blown thrice before the Mayor’s +door at 9 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> and thrice at the Market Cross afterwards. The ancient +horn of the Wakeman (which appears on the city arms) is still worn by +the Sergeant-at-mace in civic processions.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> Since then, however, another industry had arisen—the +manufacture of spurs, for which Ripon became famous, and James was +presented with a pair. This industry did not die out till the end of the +last century, and a spur is still the crest of the city. The manufacture +of saddle-trees, which flourished here in the sixteenth century, is +still carried on.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> In 1640 he was at war with the Scots for their opposition +to episcopacy, and it was at Ripon that the disgraceful negotiations +were begun, by which a sum of £850 a day was to be paid to maintain +their invading army, pending a more permanent settlement. The house in +which the ‘Treaty of Ripon’ was negotiated stood near Ailcy Hill, and +disappeared about the beginning of the century. Charles is said to have +visited the town four times altogether.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Walker’s “Sufferings of the Clergy,” quoted in <i>Surtees +Soc.</i>, Vol. 78. There is a tablet to Richardson’s wife in the south +Choir-aisle.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> The following is probably the true version of a story that +is told in connection with their demolition. One of the workmen had been +hoisted by means of a pulley, and was being held aloft by his comrades +below, when he spied some coursing in progress on Bondgate Green. Seeing +the hare well away and the dogs straining in the leash, he shouted “Let +go!” And his comrades below did.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> For the other hospitals, the ‘Thorp’ house, and other old +buildings still standing, see <a href="#CHAPTER_IV">Chap. IV</a>.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> Ripon Grammar School has produced an Archbishop of York, +Matthew Hutton (one of the two of that name who held the office from +1595 to 1606 and from 1749 to 1757 respectively: the latter Hutton +became Archbishop of Canterbury); also Beilby Porteous, Bishop of London +(1776-1787), and Dr. William Stubbs, late Bishop of Oxford.</p> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;"> +<a name="image10" id="image10"></a><a href="images/image10-full.jpg"><img src="images/image10.jpg" width="364" height="235" alt="Photo of cathedral" title="THE WEST DOORWAYS" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE WEST DOORWAYS.</p></div> + + + +<h2 class="sectionhead"><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.<br /> + +<span class="chaptitle">THE EXTERIOR.</span></h2> + + +<p>Built upon the verge of a slope, along whose base the Skell hurries +eastwards under many bridges to join the Ure among the meadows a +half-mile below the town, Ripon Cathedral stands unusually well.<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> Of +general views the two best, perhaps, are to be had from the wooden +bridge by Bondgate Green, and from the south-east gate of the graveyard. +Unfortunately lack of funds prevented Sir Gilbert Scott from raising the +roofs of nave and transept to their original pitch; but what most +injures the general effect is the lowness of the central tower, which is +no higher than those at the west end. This fault, however, must have +been far less noticeable when all three towers were crowned with lofty +spires. And, even as it stands, the exterior of Ripon is dignified and +not unworthy of its commanding site. The size of the clearstorey +windows, the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>severity of the transept, the obvious variety of style and +date throughout the building—these are the features that strike the +observer most forcibly.</p> + +<p>Several kinds of material have been employed. Up to almost the end of +the thirteenth century the builders used a coarse gritstone such as is +found five miles to the south-west at Brimham Rocks, and also a finer +gritstone or sandstone that may have come from Hackfall. After that date +they built with magnesian limestone, brought partly, perhaps, from near +York, but chiefly, it would seem, from Quarry Moor, a mile south of the +city. At the last restoration the older parts were repaired with +Hackfall stone, and the later parts with limestone from Quarry Moor and +Monkton Moor, and so extensive were the repairs needed on the exterior, +that the church somewhat belies, by its appearance, its real antiquity.</p> + +<p>The most picturesque approach is from High St. Agnes-gate by a flight of +steps, which ascend through an old arch to an avenue of limes that leads +up to the south door; but it is better, perhaps, that the survey should +begin at the west end.</p> + +<p><b>The West Front</b> was doubtless the object of two indulgences, issued +respectively by Archbishop de Gray in 1233 and by Pope Alexander IV. in +1258, and was therefore erected just before or during the struggle +between Henry III. and Simon de Montfort, in the best period of the +Early English style.</p> + +<p>The height of the gable is said to be 103 feet, and that of the towers +110 feet, and the front is divided by the string-courses into four +stages. In the central compartment the lowest stage is approached by +three steps, and is filled by three doorways, set in a thickening of the +wall, and surmounted by gables finished with crosses. The central +entrance, higher, more widely splayed, and more deeply recessed than the +others, has five orders and five triple shafts in the jamb, while they +have three orders and three shafts, the innermost of which is triple and +the others single. As usual in this style, the shafts are detached and +not worked on the stones of the jamb. The mouldings of the capitals are +carried through the jamb from end to end, and on the front of the piers +between the archways is a curious moulding which resembles an undercut +roll set up on end, and which has a capital as if it were a shaft. In +the arches the mouldings are chiefly rounds and hollows: many of the +former are filleted, and some of the latter are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>filled with the +dog-tooth (an ornament peculiar to this style), which is more profusely +employed in the central arch than in the others. The terminations of the +dripstones are foliated and stand out detached. The central gable is +adorned with a square panel of foliage, and either of the others with a +sunk foliated quatrefoil, and between the gables are spouts issuing from +the heads of animals. It is worthy of remark that all three doors open +into the nave; for as a rule when a church has three west doors, two of +them open into the aisles.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> The wooden doors in these and all the +doorways of the church are of considerable age, and those in the central +archway here bear the date 1673 in nails.</p> + +<p>Above the doors is a tier of five lancet windows, and above these +another tier, also of five, which diminish in height toward the sides, +the last window at either end being, however, as high as the tier below. +These tiers occupy the whole width of the compartment. Above them, +again, is a group of three small lancets graduated to the gable and +placed very high, with a string-course below them. These serve to light +the space between the internal and external roofs. In all this work the +detail is of the very best: the various arches are richly moulded and +supported by clusters of engaged shafts, which in the two great tiers +are banded at about half their height, and the dog-tooth ornament is +everywhere employed profusely. The lower tier is the more elaborate—its +mouldings more numerous, its shafts more richly clustered, its capitals +covered with foliage; and between the second and third lancets from the +right there is a small niche with a toothed edge and the remains of a +figure. At either end of the two tiers an ornament not unlike the +ball-flower of the Decorated style is carried up the jamb, and a bold +corbel-table runs up the sides of the gable, under the apex of which +there is a trefoil panel, while the whole is crowned by an elaborate +cross.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 366px;"> +<a name="image11" id="image11"></a><a href="images/image11-full.jpg"><img src="images/image11.jpg" width="366" height="278" alt="Photo of cathedral" title="VIEW FROM THE NORTH-WEST" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">VIEW FROM THE NORTH-WEST.</p> +</div> + +<p>In the towers the lowest of the four stages is relieved by a little +arcade of six trefoiled arches, with detached shafts, fluted capitals, +and dripstones not trefoiled and terminating in heads. Each of the three +upper stages is occupied by three tall lancets, of which that in the +centre, higher and broader than the others, is pierced and (except in +the belfry) glazed. In their enrich<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>ment these arcades resemble the +windows of the central compartment. The second stage is not quite so +high here in the towers as it is there, and the level of the +string-course above is consequently broken. The third stage, taller than +the second, reaches to the springing of the gable. The fourth, taller +than the third, rises somewhat above the gable cross, and the shafts of +the lancets are twice banded, while above are two circular panels, which +on the north tower are raised and contain quatrefoils, but on the south +tower are sunk and contain trefoils. On the other faces of these towers +the arches are not so richly moulded, and the shafts are single and also +detached, except in the uppermost stage of the north tower, where they +are engaged and filleted. As the second stage does not descend so low +upon the western face as upon the other faces, the string-course below +it, after passing round the corners of the façade, is stopped, and when +it is resumed it passes above the sill of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>arcade, being carried +round the little plinths of the shafts. All the string-courses, it will +be noticed, are enriched with the nailhead moulding. The buttresses rise +to the parapets without diminishing in breadth or projection—an early +feature, and three large rolls or beads are worked upon their edge. +Those that flank the portal have each a large niche at the bottom, with +engaged shafts, and the head and dripstone trefoiled. At the corners of +the façade, where the staircases are, the buttresses are triple. The +original corbel-table, surmounted by a row of dog-tooth ornament, +remains at the top of the towers, but the battlements and pinnacles have +been put up since the removal of the spires in 1664, and were renewed in +1797.</p> + +<p>The bells, ten in number, are in the south tower. Of the mediæval peal, +which consisted of six bells, the largest, known as the <i>Klank Knoll</i>, +was made in 1379 at York, and perhaps hung in the north tower; while +some of the others seem to have been made in Ripon in 1391. They were +all recast in 1761 by Lester & Pack of London, after which there were +eight. Two of these (Nos. 4 and 7) were recast in 1866 by Warner of +London, and two new bells (Nos. 1 and 2), by Shaw of Bradford, have been +added since 1890. The ninth bell is rung every evening at nine for the +curfew. The mediæval clock, mentioned in 1379, has long vanished; +another was put up in 1723; the present clock (by Thwaites of +Clerkenwell) dates from 1808.</p> + +<p>The whole front has been much restored by Sir Gilbert Scott, especially +the doorways and the towers. The latter were badly cracked through +settlement (due partly to the fact that in either tower one of the sides +is older than the rest),<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> but, as Sir Gilbert himself declared, they +are once more strong enough to bear spires, and it is to be hoped that +the hint will some day be taken. The more the west front of Ripon is +studied, the more it becomes apparent how much thought has been expended +upon it. Yet as a work of art it is perplexing. To some it will appear +beautiful as a design; to others its excellence of detail will be its +only commendation, and they will complain that the tiers of windows are +wider than the gable, that there is a disproportion between the little +arcade in the lowest stage of the towers and the great lancets in the +upper stages, that the height of the latter makes the towers appear +top-heavy, that the whole façade lacks projection and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>depth of shade, +and that there is too much glass. Some dissatisfaction was felt, as the +Fabric Rolls indicate, in 1379, when masons were employed to divide each +of the large windows into two lights with a quatrefoil above.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> The +mullions and quatrefoils remained till our own day, when they were +removed by Sir Gilbert Scott, whose action the present state of expert +opinion on restoration would severely condemn.</p> + +<p><b>The Nave. North Side.</b>—By being rebuilt with the addition of aisles, the +nave became as wide as the west front. Its width is 87 feet internally +and nearly 100 feet externally, and it is the widest nave in England +after York, Winchester, Chichester, and St. Paul’s. The date of the +rebuilding is indicated by a Chapter minute of 1502, which alludes to +the <i>onus canonicis modo impositum super reædificationem navis</i>. The +Fabric Rolls mention the purchase of stone in 1503, and the roofing of +some “new work” in 1505, while a will of 1508 requires the testator’s +body to be buried in “the new work of the College Church.” These are +doubtless references to the south side, which is evidently the older and +bears internally the arms of Archbishop Savage (1501-1507). Again, an +indulgence of 1512, by Archbishop Bainbridge (1508-1514), alluding to +the demolition of the old nave as then complete, suggests that the north +wall had been left standing till then, and the laying of the foundation +of the north aisle, which bears his arms, is mentioned in the Roll for +1512-13. It appears from the Rolls that the main roof was up by 1520-21. +Lastly, Leland’s allusion to “the body of the Chirch of late dayes made +of a great Widnesse” shows that the main part of the work was finished +at any rate by about 1538.<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a></p> + +<p>The nave is divided—east of the towers—into six bays, of which the +easternmost is narrower than the rest, to answer to a fragment of the +old nave preserved within. The plinth is considerably higher than that +of the west front.</p> + +<p>On the north side, the six buttresses project 5 feet at the base and +rise to the parapet in two stages, which are crowned by gables. These +gables have their sides curved inwards and are adorned with crockets and +finials, the latter being attached to the front of the gable, while +grotesques project from the angles. The windows are of three lights, and +are rather acutely jointed and deeply set for such late work, and their +arches <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span>are well moulded, a broad hollow running up the sides. As is +often the case in late work, there are no sub-arches in the tracery, and +the mullions are carried up through the head. The easternmost of these +windows is of two lights, and has a transom in the tracery, and the +westernmost is shortened to allow of a doorway of four-centred form +beneath. Below the sills runs a string-course, which rises to pass over +the door. The parapet is battlemented, not for military purposes but for +ornament, and at intervals are the beginnings of panelled pinnacles, set +diagonally and partially embedded in the battlements. The clearstorey +has no pilasters or buttresses, but where it joins the west tower a +projecting strip of masonry may be seen half imbedded in the Early +English work and half in the Perpendicular. This is, without doubt, the +upper part of one of the buttresses of the old nave.</p> + +<p>The clearstorey windows are actually larger than those of the aisle +below, and are again rather acutely pointed for late work. They are of +five lights, and the two mullions in the middle are carried up through +the head, but a sub-arch comprises the two outer lights on either side. +The last window eastwards is of three lights, is shorter than the rest, +and has several transoms in the tracery. In the parapet, the coping is +not carried down the sides of the battlements as it is on the aisles, +and the rudimentary pinnacles spring from grotesque corbels at the +string-course, with a plain corbel at the side of each to carry the +water-spout.</p> + +<p><b>The Central Tower. North and West Sides.</b>—The central tower of Ripon is +probably unique among towers in being divided vertically between two +different styles of architecture. Its north and west sides are +Archbishop Roger’s work,<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> but the other sides are Perpendicular, +having been rebuilt after the collapse of the south-east angle. Seen +from the north-west, however, it presents much the same appearance now +as in the twelfth century, and either side displays a pair of +round-headed windows, with the weathering of the original roof rising +high between them and (on the west face) cutting off their corners. The +windows have a shaft in the jamb, and the abacus of the capitals is +continued round the tower as a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>string, but interrupted by the +buttresses and weatherings, as is also another string below the sills. +In the windows of the north side there is a space or tympanum over the +inner arch. Each corner of the tower was strengthened by a pair of flat +buttresses, with one shaft at the corner itself and another at the inner +side of either buttress, and with the shafts banded half way up and +again near the top. These buttresses are received in an overhanging +corbel-table, above which runs a hollow moulding, filled with dog-tooth +ornament of a large size and continued round the projections that serve +for gargoyles. The use of this Early English ornament in a scheme which +might otherwise be pure Norman affords a good instance of the +Transitional character of the work. The battlements are later.</p> + +<p><b>The North Transept</b>, with the three adjacent bays of the choir, gives +some idea of the external appearance of Archbishop Roger’s church.<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> +The date of the beginning of the work ascribed to him is placed within +his lifetime (1154-1181) by his own words quoted in <a href="#CHAPTER_I">Chapter I</a>. The +transept is divided by the string-courses into four stages, and has a +very massive plinth which is lower than that of the nave, thus +expressing the slope of the ground. The west wall is shorter than the +east and has two bays only, but south of the second bay, and separated +from it by a flat pilaster, is a narrow space, along the top of which +are the remains of a cornice: the two bays proper are separated by a +recessed buttress of some projection. One round-headed window, divided +by a mullion, appears in the second stage; and in the fourth stage are +two plain, round-headed windows, not subdivided. The original +corbel-table remains above, but it is surmounted by a (probably) +fourteenth century battlemented parapet, which is returned over the +central buttress, forming a square turret, which has a (renewed) +gargoyle below it, and is pierced with a cross. The buttresses at the +north-west corner of the transept, where is a staircase, are clustered +and rise to the top of the wall, and like most Norman buttresses, and +some of Early English date (as in the west front), they do not diminish +as they ascend. The large buttress on the west side of this <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>corner has +two carved stones built into it at the height of about eighteen feet +from the ground. They are covered with patterns resembling the knots so +often found on ancient crosses, and are of especial interest as being +possibly survivals of the church built by St. Wilfrid.<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> It is +noticeable that the first string-course is the only one which is not +carried round the buttresses at this corner. A recessed buttress of the +same type separates the end of the transept from that of an aisle which +is thrown out from its eastern side.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 214px;"> +<a name="image12" id="image12"></a><a href="images/image12-full.jpg"><img src="images/image12.jpg" width="214" height="307" alt="Photo of doorway of cathedral" title="DOORWAY, NORTH TRANSEPT" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">DOORWAY, NORTH TRANSEPT.</p></div> + + +<p>The lowest stage of this north elevation is blank save for a rather +interesting doorway set in a thickening of the wall near the western +corner. In this doorway the innermost arch is of unusual form—a trefoil +resting on corbels—and its edges are left square and plain. Over it is +a semicircular arch of three orders with three detached shafts in either +jamb, and as usual throughout almost all Archbishop Roger’s work, the +arch has the edge-roll between hollows (here on every order), the shafts +are detached, their bases round upon square, and their capitals +square-topped, with the edge of the abacus hollowed. The capitals here +are enriched with good foliage of a rather classical type.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>In the stage above are three round-headed windows with a shaft in either +jamb and foliage on the capitals. Each of these windows, like that on +the west side, and several in the other transept, has been divided by a +mullion into two lights, presumably in the fourteenth century.<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> The +third stage, which corresponds to the triforium within, is blank here as +on the west side, and in the fourth stage are three round-headed +windows, plainly recessed and chamfered. The gable, on which stands a +plain cross, has been lowered, as is shown by the weathering on the +tower, and its sides, after descending, take an upward turn to meet the +corners. It is flanked by two lofty square turrets, which have been +compared with those on the west front of Tewkesbury. They have a shaft +at each angle, are pierced on each face with two round-headed openings +under a round arch, with a string below running round the turret, and +are surmounted by pyramidal stone caps ending in pommels and having a +rude pinnacle at each corner. The end of the aisle is set back, and +displays a window like the three above the door, but without the +dividing mullion; and above this a round-headed niche, doubtless once a +window that lighted the space over the aisle-vault; while a round arch +over this niche, and a little pointed arch on the buttress adjacent +westwards, carry a curious thickening of the masonry above. The +arrangement of the windows here breaks the continuity of the first +string-course, which, after crossing the main elevation, has to be +stopped and resumed at a lower level in order to pass beneath the +windows of the aisle. At the corner of the latter are more clustered +buttresses, terminating below the parapet, and above them rises a plain +gabled pinnacle (an addition, probably, of the fourteenth century), +while another buttress, rising from the inclined coping of the +aisle-wall, runs up the clearstorey.</p> + +<p>The east side of the aisle has two more buttresses like those at the +corner, and consists of two bays, each containing a window like that at +the end. It is hard to say whether the moulded string or cornice below +the parapet is original, but the gargoyle which juts from it and the +parapet itself, with its <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>cruciform piercings, are not earlier than the +fourteenth century. The roofs of the aisles in both transepts and in the +choir have been lowered, and it has been suggested that this was done at +the time when the Minster was fortified against the Scots, in order to +afford better standing-room for armed men,<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> and the various +battlements on choir and transepts were probably erected for the same +occasion. Here the round arches of the triforium have been built up, and +the clearstorey harmonizes with the more elaborate scheme of the choir. +The wall is divided into three bays by flat pilasters received in the +cornice, and each bay contains a round arch, pierced and glazed, between +two lower and narrower pointed arches, all resting on single detached +shafts. Between the buttresses runs a corbel-table, supporting a +battlemented parapet of Decorated character, in which the merlons are of +great width in proportion to the embrasures—an early feature—and have +the usual cruciform piercings, so splayed at the back as to leave no +doubt that they were really intended for the use of archers. The three +gargoyles below have been renewed, and none of the gargoyles on choir or +transepts are earlier, perhaps, than the Decorated period.</p> + +<p><b>The Choir. North Side.</b>—Here the three westernmost bays of the aisle and +clearstorey respectively are Archbishop Roger’s work. Two flat +pilaster-buttresses rise out of the slope of the plinth and run up the +aisle-wall, each terminating short of the parapet in two sets-off close +together. The level of the window-sills was the same here as in the +transept, but the string-course has been broken in the Decorated period +by the insertion of three slender windows, each having two lights with a +quatrefoil above. Above the windows comes the moulded string or cornice +continued from the transept, and above this the pierced merlons of the +Decorated battlement are again very broad in proportion to the +embrasures. Instead of being built up, the exposed arches of the +triforium have here been glazed. The clearstorey resembles that of the +transept, but the corbel table is surmounted here by a slope, on which +rest two large gargoyles (renewed), and instead of a Decorated +battlement there is a plain coping.</p> + +<p>The last three bays of the clearstorey and the last two of the aisle are +Decorated work, probably of the end of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>thirteenth century, and here +the level of the plinth is again lowered to suit the slope of the +ground. In the aisle the two bays are separated from the rest and from +each other by buttresses having a projection of 8 feet. Either of these +buttresses is crowned by a gable having a finial, and is surmounted by a +tall square pinnacle to receive the thrust of a flying buttress that +spans the aisle; and either pinnacle has its sides panelled and gabled, +a head at each corner, and five finials. The two last aisle-windows are +larger than those in the western bays, but have much the same tracery. +They have, however, a thick shaft worked on the stones of the jamb, and +a large keeled round on the edge of the arch, and there is no dripstone. +Below them is a small string-course, which is carried round the east +end. The string or cornice above them is made to match that on the +western portion of the aisle, but in the battlement the merlons are of +merely ordinary width. In the clearstorey the wall is considerably set +back from the Transitional bays, and the three windows are very +elaborate. Their arches are richly moulded and acutely pointed, the +springing-line being rather low down. Each window is divided into four +lights, comprised under two sub-arches, either of which contains a +circle enclosing a trefoil, while above, in the head of the window, is a +large circle with five trefoils radiating from its centre. The +dripstones end in heads. A moulded string-course, with gargoyles, runs +below the parapet, which is a continuation of the plain coping on the +western bays.</p> + +<p>From this point it will be best to return to the west front, and proceed +along the south side of the Cathedral.</p> + +<p><b>The Nave. South Side.</b>—This side is architecturally superior to the +other, and differs from it greatly in detail. The plinth, which is very +massive, rises even higher above that of the west front here than it +does there, and the buttresses project over 8 feet at the base and are +of three stages, and the gables on these have their sides straight, +their eaves everywhere continued to the wall, and their corners enriched +with heads, but on the second stage only. In the two easternmost +buttresses the lowest stage has heads also, and in the last buttress +eastwards this stage, for some unexplained reason, is twice as broad as +the others, and has an ogee gable. On all gables the crockets are large, +and the finials, which here stand upon the apex, are huge and very +boldly executed; while the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>rudimentary pinnacles are thicker here than +on the north side and more detached from the parapet. The wall is +thickened up to the windows, below which there is a set-off, and the +windows themselves are so moulded as to seem set in heavy frames, and +are much less acutely pointed than in the other aisle, their arches +approaching the ‘drop’ form. The rather clumsy mullions are carried up +through the head, but branch out to form arches over the side lights, +and are reduced in thickness above the branching point; and in the head +there is a transom, except in the narrow easternmost window. Though the +aisles differ so much, the clearstorey is much the same on this side as +on the other, and again one of Archbishop Roger’s buttresses is visible, +imbedded between the Perpendicular walling and the west tower. The +height of his roof is indicated by the weathering on the central tower +and by the west gable, and the sixteenth century roof was probably not +lower, for the central tower shows high weatherings of the latter period +also; but the pitch had been lowered before the last restoration, and +Sir Gilbert Scott was unable to raise it to the full height. It is to be +hoped that the raising may yet be accomplished, and that lead may be +substituted for slate.</p> + +<p><b>The South Transept</b>, all but its eastern side, is mainly Archbishop +Roger’s work. The plinth is altogether lower not only than that of the +nave, and even of the west front, but also than that of the other +transept, and the architecture thus expresses the downward slope of the +ground from north to south as well as from west to east. Here, as in the +nave, the buttresses have a greater projection than on the north side of +the church, as if the ground here were more liable to settle. As this +transept bears a general resemblance to the other, it will be best to +note only the points in which they differ. In the west wall the window +in the second stage has no mullion, the innermost buttress is of the +same type as its next neighbour, and the parapet is returned over all +the buttresses, thus forming three ‘turrets,’ of which that nearest to +the nave rests partially on a large corbel. The staircase at the +south-west corner terminates at the top in a square turret with a +pyramidal stone cap.</p> + +<p>In the south elevation the doorway is very elaborate. The opening is of +the form sometimes called the shouldered arch, a square lintel (which, +curiously enough, is not one stone) resting <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>on corbels; and the +semicircular arch over this is of four orders, the uppermost of which +projects considerably from the wall. On either side there are five +shafts, the outermost order having two, which are placed on the front of +the jamb and share one abacus. These two shafts are worked on the stones +of the jamb—a mode of construction not very common in such early +doorways. The details resemble those of the less elaborate doorway in +the other transept, but some of the foliage on the capitals here is +almost Early English. This doorway is approached by five steps, and was +once covered by a Renaissance porch.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 208px;"> +<a name="image13" id="image13"></a><a href="images/image13-full.jpg"><img src="images/image13.jpg" width="208" height="311" alt="Photo of doorway" title="DOORWAY, SOUTH TRANSEPT" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo</i>.]</p> + +<p class="caption">DOORWAY, SOUTH TRANSEPT.</p></div> + +<p>In the windows of the second stage the abacus of the capitals is +continued as a string from window to window. The two flanking buttresses +have been crowned at some later period with gables ending in finials, +and the great gable is pierced with a Perpendicular window of three +lights, which has three transoms in the head, the mullions carried up to +the archivolt, and a dripstone ending in foliage. The sides of the gable +here do not take an upward turn to meet the corners, and there are no +flanking turrets. In the end of the aisle the blocked upper window is +pointed, and has a little trefoiled niche above and to the left of it, +and there is no thickening of the masonry above to necessitate +carrying-arches. The buttresses at the corner reach to the top of the +parapet and have no surmounting pinnacle. The small portion of the east +side of the aisle which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>is not concealed by the Chapter-house and +Lady-loft displays in the lower stage a somewhat inexplicable blind +arch, carrying an inclined thickening of the masonry that has been +afterwards built up to a level, and below the parapet a moulded cornice +like that on the north side of the church. This cornice is continued +within the Lady-loft, and reappears over the last bay of the +choir-aisle.</p> + +<p><b>The Chapter-House.</b>—The south aisle of the choir is concealed by a wing +of three storeys, of which the lowest, though exposed to view by the +conditions of the site, is of the nature of a crypt, while the second +comprises the Chapter-house and vestry, and the third, known as the +Lady-loft, is an addition, probably of the fourteenth century. The first +two storeys seem to have formed part of a church earlier than Archbishop +Roger’s,<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> and have been variously ascribed to Archbishops Thurstan +(1114-1141)<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> and Thomas of Bayeux (1069-1100).<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> From the east wall +of these two storeys an apse is thrown out, upon which rests a square +projection from the Lady-loft, too short to be called a chancel. The two +westernmost buttresses, up to the string above the crypt, are evidently +additions by Archbishop Roger, while the third, which completely encases +a three-sided apsidal projection at the corner of the vestry, is of much +later date and will be examined presently. Adjoining it is a flat +pilaster buttress, apparently original. The crypt has five unglazed +windows along the south side, all round-headed and plainly splayed, and, +where it joins the transept, there is a large rectangular squint which +gives light to a staircase that leads up to the Chapter-house. A pointed +doorway, made in later times, cuts into the fourth window from the west. +In the second storey there are on this side only four windows, which are +spaced without any regard to the position of those below. The two +westernmost, which are circular and without tracery—a type of window +that is somewhat rare—can hardly be later than the time of Archbishop +Roger, and may be earlier: the next two are square and of much later +date. Above the windows <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>the eaves of the original roofs remain, +supported on a corbel-table which is carried round the apsidal chamber +at the corner and round the eastern apse. At the south side of the +latter the builders have left a narrow recess which extends from the +ground nearly to the top of the crypt.</p> + +<p>The apse displays in the lower storey a round-headed unglazed window +like those along the south wall, and in the upper storey a small +round-headed light at the south side and a larger window in the middle, +of the same size as that below, but not so deeply splayed, and with the +head rudely trefoiled. On either side of these central windows, a shaft, +made in short joints, runs up the apse from base to eaves. The string +between the two storeys is carried round these shafts, and their +circular bases overhang the plinth and rest on small blocks, while the +capitals are square-topped, as in Archbishop Roger’s work. From the roof +of this apse and of the apsidal chamber at the corner, and from the +eaves that project along the south wall, it would seem that the whole +structure was roofed with stone at a steep inclination. Where its wall +joins the transept the stone-work seems to be of the same date on both +sides of the corner, so that there may have been an original buttress or +wall extending southwards from this point.</p> + +<p>The third storey is now the Cathedral library, but was originally the +<b>Lady-chapel</b>, and was commonly called the Lady-loft. Such a position for +a Lady-chapel—at the south side of the choir, and in an upper +storey—is extremely unusual.<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> Authorities have differed widely as to +its date. Some have assigned it to about 1482; but the Lady-loft is +clearly mentioned in the Treasurers’ Rolls in 1470, and its +architecture, which is Decorated rather than Perpendicular, would be in +favour of ascribing it to the middle of the previous century, were it +not for a certain coarseness of execution which makes a suspension of +judgment advisable.<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> To support this additional storey, the two +western buttresses were carried up, diminishing both in projection and +in width, to within a few feet of the upper string-course. The huge +buttress <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>at the corner was very possibly added later, to counteract a +settlement which is evident to anyone so standing as to bring the shafts +on the apse in line with the corner of the choir, and which was +doubtless due to the weight of the Lady-loft. This buttress is of the +same height as the others, but is broader, and has as many as seven +stages, the fourth of which is crowned by a truncated hip roof and +pierced with a slit to light the apsidal chamber within, from whose +sloping top the upper stages spring. Traces of some external means of +access to this apsidal chamber from below may be seen at the west side. +Except one small lancet adjoining this buttress, the windows of the +Lady-loft are square-headed, with mullions branching out into +intersecting arches whose cusps spring from the soffit independently of +the mouldings—an early feature; and the dripstones are square labels +terminating in foliage, but with the ends not returned. Altogether these +are more like the windows of a castle or manor-house than of a church. +The four towards the south are of three lights, but the east window has +five lights and is set higher in the wall, while its dripstone +terminates at one end in a grotesque sitting figure. Various gargoyles +project from the string-course, which rises to pass over the east +window. The angles of the east end seem to rest upon the very edge of +the cornice of the apse, and one wonders how the wall is supported along +the chord of the curve. In reality, however, the apse is not so sharply +curved internally as externally, and its walls are very thick, so that +the square form could be imposed upon the round without much +overlapping. The parapet shows the same wide merlons and cruciform +piercings which characterize the other Decorated parapets of the church, +and it may have been brought forward from the choir-aisle.</p> + +<p>The last bay of the latter displays a window like those on the north +side, but having foliage on the capitals of the shafts; and below the +parapet runs the cornice continued from the transept, with a curious +gargoyle upon it. Part of the base of Archbishop Roger’s choir-aisle is +visible imbedded between this wall and the apse.</p> + +<p>Those parts of the church which were rebuilt after the collapse of the +south-east corner of the tower can be best examined from the roof of the +Lady-loft, which forms with the roofs of the aisles a level surface of +considerable extent.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span><b>The East Side of the South Transept</b> has three buttresses, crowned by +pinnacles of which the two nearest to the tower are modern. The central +buttress is much shallower than the others and has a different +termination. The clearstorey displays three well-arched windows of three +lights (the innermost window a little smaller than the others) with +tracery not unlike that in the south aisle of the nave. The parapet is +probably old Decorated work that has been used again, for it has the +wide merlons and cruciform piercings characteristic of early +battlements, and the Perpendicular pinnacles, it will be noticed, are +not in the middle of the merlons. The manner in which the corner of the +tower has been reconstructed is extremely interesting. Up the angle +formed by choir and transept runs a sort of excrescence of masonry that +blossoms out, so to speak, into an extraordinary complication of +corbelling near the top, and is itself corbelled away at the bottom. In +this excrescence, as elsewhere, old materials have been used again, and +in the projecting mass, at the level of both triforium and clearstorey, +are the springings of arches curving eastwards and southwards, which +suggest that the adjoining walls had at first been intended to be on a +more advanced plane, and that the arches of the triforium were to have +been round in the transept (where, by the way, they are recessed) as +they are in the choir. This angle contains the tower staircase, which is +lighted by a little window in the upper corbelling and is reached from +the clearstorey gallery of the transept. On this side of the church the +parapet walk has to be carried round the corners of the tower on +squinches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;"> +<a name="image14" id="image14"></a><a href="images/image14-full.jpg"><img src="images/image14.jpg" width="364" height="538" alt="Photo of cathedral" title="RECONSTRUCTED ANGLE OF THE GREAT TOWER, (SOUTH TRANSEPT AND CHOIR.)" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">RECONSTRUCTED ANGLE OF THE GREAT TOWER, (SOUTH TRANSEPT AND CHOIR.)</p></div> + +<p><b>The Central Tower. South and East Sides.</b>—The south and east faces are +each divided by a central pilaster running up to the top of the parapet, +but otherwise the general scheme is not unlike that of the older sides, +save that the windows here are set higher in the wall. Each window has +two lights, wide and low, with much tracery above them, in which the +mullion branches into two sub-arches; and there are dripstones ending in +heads. The high weathering on these sides indicates that it was not in +the Perpendicular period that the roofs of the church were so +unfortunately lowered. At either end of each of these sides a buttress +rises to the base of the parapet in three stages, the second of which +has on the front a panel with an ogee crocketed hood and is crowned by a +gable with a grotesque at each corner, while the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"><br />[58]</a></span>third is narrower, +but is also panelled. Various gargoyles project from the uppermost +string, which on the east side is not broken by the central pilaster. As +this string is higher than the corbel-table of the older sides, the +tower presents a very curious appearance when seen from the south-west +or north-east.<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> The battlements and pinnacles were perhaps first +added when the south and east sides were rebuilt, but in places they +have been much renewed. The stair-turret is surmounted by a hexagonal +stone cap, which is pierced with a spire-light and crowned by a finial; +and there is also a wooden polygonal bell-cote at the north-west corner +of the tower. At the north-east angle the Perpendicular masonry turns +the corner and enfolds the Transitional buttresses, where it stops with +a jagged edge. This unfinished work has a considerable projection from +the Transitional walling, the intention having been, perhaps, to correct +externally the obliquity in the ground plan of Roger’s tower;<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> it is +also corbelled away at the bottom, probably to afford freer passage +along the parapet walk and to avoid the necessity of a squinch. +Originally the tower had perhaps a low pyramidal roof without a parapet, +and then came several successive spires. The last of these, which fell +in 1660, is said to have been 120 feet high from the top of the tower, +and its disappearance has surely done more than anything else to spoil +the external effect of the building.<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a></p> + +<p><b>The South Side of the Choir.</b>—Here the three westernmost bays are +Perpendicular and the others Decorated. The westernmost window is +smaller than the rest, and is of three lights, with the mullions carried +up through the head. The next two windows imitate in curvature their +Decorated neighbours, and are of four lights, with the central mullion +branching out to form two sub-arches, between which a foliated circle, a +feature not common in Perpendicular windows, is introduced <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"><br />[60]</a></span>into the +head. In the fourth bay the Decorated arch has been filled with +Perpendicular tracery, but the fifth and sixth windows remain in their +original beauty as on the north side, save that in the easternmost the +small circles have been mutilated and have lost their foliation. The two +flying buttresses resemble those on the north side, but from the points +where they meet the wall two pilasters run up into the parapet, which is +flush with them and is crowned by a plain coping, while beneath it is a +string, with gargoyles. Except at this end the wall, as in the +clearstorey of the nave, is not buttressed, notwithstanding the size of +the windows and their nearness together.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;"> +<a name="image15" id="image15"></a><a href="images/image15-full.jpg"><img src="images/image15.jpg" width="365" height="501" alt="Photo of cathedral" title="FLYING BUTTRESSES, SOUTH SIDE OF CHOIR" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">FLYING BUTTRESSES, SOUTH SIDE OF CHOIR.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>The East End.</b>—The rebuilding of the east end of Archbishop Roger’s +choir was probably the object of an indulgence of 1284 by Archbishop +Wickwaine, a brief of 1285 by Pope Celestine V., two indulgences issued +in 1288 and 1300 respectively by Archbishops Romanus and Corbridge, and +some credentials issued by the latter in 1302 for a collector of funds. +And yet it is hard to fix the date of the work with any exactness. It +had apparently not begun in 1286, for a mandate of Archbishop Romanus in +that year begins <i>Cancellus Rypon’ ruinosus reparetur</i>; but it may have +been completed before the irruption of the Scots in 1318. Two +indulgences of Archbishop Melton, one of which is dated 1328, do indeed +allude to some “new work” as still unfinished, but this “new work” may +have been the repairs necessitated by the violence of the Scots.<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> The +east end of the Cathedral, then, recalls that period in our history when +Edward I. was wrestling with the Scottish problem, and was also carrying +into effect those lessons in representative government which he had +learnt from Simon de Montfort.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 357px;"> +<a name="image16" id="image16"></a><a href="images/image16-full.jpg"><img src="images/image16.jpg" width="357" height="455" alt="Photo of east end of cathedral" title="THE EAST END" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo</i>.]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE EAST END.</p> +</div> + +<p>The well-marked plinth of this east end has been already noticed. Either +corner of the choir contains a staircase, and is strengthened by a pair +of massive buttresses and crowned by an octagonal turret with a conical +stone cap and a finial. These buttresses have a projection of 8 feet, +rise to the top of the aisles, and are surmounted by gables with +finials, and at the north corner the gables and the coping of the aisle +are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span>crocketed. At the south corner the upper part of the turret has +been used as a cell. It is lighted by a small slit and has a wooden +floor with a trap in it, from which a ladder once descended to the head +of the staircase; and at the west side, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>in the parapet of the aisle, +there is a garderobe seat. It would be interesting to know whether this +turret was a prison, or a place of penance, or whether it was occupied +by a watchman or sentinel, or, as is not improbable, by one of those +recluses who were so often attached to religious communities in the +middle ages. The central compartment is flanked by two huge buttresses, +which have a projection of 10 feet at the bottom and rise to the base of +the gable, or rather a little above it, in two stages only, the lower +stage reaching a little above the coping of the aisles, and both stages +are crowned by gables with finials.<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> The three compartments of the +front are on the same plane. Each aisle shows at the end a window of the +same pattern with these in the sides, and that in the south aisle has +foliage on the capitals of its shafts and is surmounted by a little +window of trefoil form which lights a staircase within, for staircases +ascend over these windows in the thickness of the wall and run up the +angles of the clearstorey.</p> + +<p>The great window in the central compartment is one of the finest +examples of Geometrical tracery, if not one of the largest windows, in +England. It is over 50 feet high, is 25 feet wide, and has seven lights. +Of these the three at either end are comprised under a sub-arch, in the +head of which are three cinquefoiled circles, while the central light of +the seven is surmounted by an arch, not so high as its neighbours, but +impaling upon its acute point a huge circle which fills the head of the +window and contains six trefoils radiating from its centre. The arch of +this superb window is rather acutely pointed and richly moulded, and has +two very slender shafts worked on the stones of either jamb, with +foliage on their capitals. Just above the ground below this window there +may be observed in the wall one of the many architectural puzzles in +which the Cathedral abounds, a half-arch, rising toward the right and +filled in with masonry, except at the right side, where is a narrow +opening that runs in for a few feet.<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> A <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>string-course continued from +the sides of the aisles passes below the three windows and round the +buttresses, which are further relieved at a little height above it by a +set-off. The gable has been entirely rebuilt by Sir Gilbert Scott. It is +slightly set back, and displays a lofty window of four lights with +geometrical tracery not unlike that in the great window below. On either +side of this window there is panelling graduated to suit the triangular +space, and the gable is crowned by an elaborate cross and flanked by two +pinnacles which resemble those of the flying buttresses but are larger +and have foliage at the corners instead of heads. The original Decorated +gable was probably very much of this pattern. Its height was indicated +by the weathering on the tower, and it seems to have had flanking +pinnacles and graduated panelling. It had, however, been lowered in +pitch and had been altered also by the insertion of a rather debased +Perpendicular window.<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> Whatever may be thought, therefore, of Sir +Gilbert Scott’s action in rebuilding it, he has surely improved the +general effect of the front, and it is well that one of the roofs, at +any rate, should have been raised to the original pitch. What is most to +be regretted, perhaps, is the removal of all traces, if any there were, +of the chantry of the Holy Trinity <i>supra summum altare</i>, which was +situated, as its name implies, in the roof, behind the old gable.</p> + +<p>In Archbishop Roger’s day the choir was probably as long as it is now, +and Walbran (followed by Sir Gilbert Scott) believed that the aisles at +that period were returned across the east end. If so, the clearstorey +must have been a bay shorter than at present, with a pent roof +projecting from below it on the east side to cover the returned portion +of the aisle. The rebuilding of the east end in the Decorated period was +the first operation in which limestone was employed, but much of the old +gritstone has been used again.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 356px;"> +<a name="image17" id="image17"></a><a href="images/image17-full.jpg"><img src="images/image17.jpg" width="356" height="539" alt="Photo of interior of the cathedral" title="THE NORTH-WESTERN PORTION OF THE NAVE" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE NORTH-WESTERN PORTION OF THE NAVE.</p> + +<p class="caption">(Junction of XIIth and XVIth Century work.)</p></div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> The name Ripon comes probably from the Latin <i>ripa</i>, “a +river’s bank.” Bede uses a form “Inrhypum,” which arose perhaps out of +<i>in ripis</i>. The derivation <i>Uri pons</i> has been generally abandoned.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> The reason of the peculiarity here is the unusual width of +the nave. (<i>See below</i>, <a href="#Page_44">p. 44</a>.)</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> This will be explained in <a href="#CHAPTER_III">Chapter III</a>.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> See illustration, <a href="#Page_17">p. 17</a>.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> This was pointed out by Walbran.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> The Transitional or Transition-Norman work at Ripon +probably was not all erected during Roger’s lifetime, but all of it +will, in these pages, be associated with his name.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> Upon a modern Chapter seal there is what is possibly meant +for a representation of Roger’s church, with western towers, three +spires, and no aisles. The seal is a reproduction of another of the time +of James I., which may have been reproduced from a third of earlier +date.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> For the origin and meaning of this knotwork, so often +found in these islands on ancient crosses, and for its value as an +illustration of the possible connection of Saxon architecture with the +Comacine Guild of Italy, see <i>The Cathedral Builders</i>, by Leader Scott, +pp. 82-99, and p. 145.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> This was the case with all the windows of both +transepts—in the lower tier at any rate—until the last restoration. +The reason why Sir Gilbert Scott has left or renewed the mullions in +some of the windows is probably that he did not wish to disturb the +memorial glass.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> The suggestion was made by Mr. Francis Bond.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> <i>I.e.</i>, they were probably a Southern Chapel of the choir +(<i>vid. inf.</i>, Ch. III.). It is doubtful whether this earlier choir +itself can have had a crypt.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> By Sir Gilbert Scott.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> By Walbran.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> Lady-chapels are usually found at the extreme east end of +the choir, unless that position was wanted for the resting-place of a +local saint.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> Walbran favoured 1482; Sir Gilbert Scott the middle of the +fourteenth century.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> See the illustration, <a href="#Page_2">p. 2</a>.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> <i>The Builder</i>, February 4th, 1893.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> This last spire must have been erected after all intention +of rebuilding the north and west sides of the tower had been given up, +and therefore (perhaps) after the dissolution. The three spires are +shown upon the seventeenth century communion plate and in several old +prints (see the illustration, <a href="#Page_32">p. 32</a>). They were wooden and covered with +lead, and are represented as octagonal. The two at the west end are +shown without parapets at the base, and all three are without those +sloping spurs which so often connect an octagonal spire with the corners +of the tower.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Dean Waddilove, in his monograph on the Cathedral, +mentions that the date 1330 is to be found upon the choir, but he does +not say where. Walbran believed the work to have been executed between +1280 and 1297, and is followed by Sir Gilbert Scott.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> The buttresses of this east wall were formerly connected +at the bottom by a debased battlemented wall, and the space within was +used for sheds, the grooves for whose pent roofs can be seen on the +sides of the buttresses.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> The arch springs from the buttress (as an excavation in +1900 showed), and may perhaps be a relieving-arch, to take the weight +off a weak place in the foundations. Yet it was not intended, +apparently, to be filled up. The stones forming the right edge of the +hole are coigns, and have mason-marks on their sides. At the back of the +hole the masonry appears to be of some antiquity: may it be part of the +foundation of the east end of Archbishop Roger’s choir?</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> There are several prints of the Cathedral, as it was +before restoration, in the Ripon Museum.</p> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 357px;"> +<a name="image18" id="image18"></a><a href="images/image18-full.png"><img src="images/image18.png" width="357" height="225" alt="Drawing of interior of cathedral" title="CONJECTURAL VIEW OF INTERIOR OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER’S NAVE +BY SIR G. G. SCOTT." /></a> +<p class="caption">CONJECTURAL VIEW OF INTERIOR OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER’S NAVE +BY SIR G. G. SCOTT.</p> + +<p class="caption">(By the kind permission of the Archæological Institute.)</p> +</div> + + +<h2 class="sectionhead"><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.<br /> + +<span class="chaptitle">THE INTERIOR.</span></h2> + + +<p><b>The Nave.</b>—On entering through the west doors a perspective is disclosed +of 133 feet to the end of the Nave, 170 feet to the Rood Screen, and 270 +feet to the end of the Choir. The Early English builders have preserved +two bays of Archbishop Roger’s nave and have incorporated them into the +west towers,<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> and the two great tower-arches which they have cut +through the Transitional walling are very fine specimens of the Early +English style. Each of the half-pillars that support them is a cluster +of five large engaged shafts separated by very deep hollows, and upon +every shaft there is a large fillet, which is carried up into the +capital and down over the base. The base consists of two round mouldings +separated by a hollow and fillets, and overhangs the plinth so much as +to suggest that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>the floor just here has been lowered. The capitals and +the arches themselves (which are of three orders) are moulded with +rounds and hollows very strongly marked, and the hood of the southern +arch terminates eastwards in a bunch of foliage.</p> + +<p>The interior of the towers is more richly treated than is usual. Over +the tower-arch is a small arcade of four members with clustered shafts, +and with a string below, while the other three walls are plain up to the +windows, each of which is flanked, as on the exterior, by two blind +lancets. The arcading thus formed has clustered and banded shafts (not +detached), behind which ran a passage, now blocked, and below the sill, +and a little distance apart, are two strings, to the lower of which the +sills of all the windows save two descend in steps. The windows are not +splayed, and those which now look into the aisles are unglazed, and +their flanking lancets are of unequal width. All the arches are much +moulded and ornamented with the dog-tooth, and the central shaft of each +cluster has a fillet. In each corner a detached shaft springs from a +round corbel above the lowest string and rises to the impost of the +arches, being banded twice on the way; and from its capital another +shaft runs up to the ceiling. The doors to the spiral staircases open +into little square lobbies which have vaults with groin-ribs springing +from corbels.<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> In the north tower is a modern stained window of some +merit.</p> + +<p>The two bays of Archbishop Roger’s work incorporated in the towers, +taken together with another Transitional bay at the east end, make it +possible to imagine the whole interior of what must have been the most +remarkable nave in England. It was unusually broad. From the ground to +the first string (about 16 feet) there was plain wall. Above this was a +triforium (if it can be so called<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a>) of the unusual height of about 28 +feet, and there were thus no windows except in the clearstorey, and +there only in alternate bays. According to Sir Gilbert Scott the +triforium and clearstorey were probably con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>tinued across the west wall. +The bays were alternately broad and narrow, and there is room for five +of each sort. The westernmost bay shows in the triforium stage a round +arch comprising four pointed arches. Of these the two in the middle are +raised above the others on shafts of two stages, in the upper of which +the capital is circular and its moulding is continued along the tympanum +to the <i>apices</i> of the two lower arches. The tympanum is relieved by a +sunk quatrefoil in a serrated circle, and so is the space under either +of the two central sub-arches. The passage in this bay has been built +up, and the bay itself shortened, probably when the tower arches were +made.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 366px;"> +<a name="image19" id="image19"></a><a href="images/image19-full.jpg"><img src="images/image19.jpg" width="366" height="210" alt="Drawing of plan of cathedral" title="CONJECTURAL PLAN OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER’S CHURCH BY SIR G. +G. SCOTT." /></a> +<p class="caption">CONJECTURAL PLAN OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER’S CHURCH BY SIR G. +G. SCOTT. See <a href="#Page_16">p. 16</a>.</p> + +<p class="caption">(By permission of the Archæological Institute.)</p> +</div> + +<p>In the adjoining narrow bay, the comprising arch is pointed, there are +only two sub-arches, and there are no quatrefoils, except in the +tympanum on the north side. Doors have also been inserted in this bay to +communicate with the passages behind the arcades in the towers.</p> + +<p>The shafts throughout are single, and (in the sub-arches) detached, and +the details generally are the same as in all Archbishop Roger’s work. It +is worthy of remark that the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>tympanum over the sub-arches is flush with +the lower part of the wall, and that the comprising arches, with all the +walling above them, are a plane in advance. The more natural plan would +have been to make the comprising arch flush with the wall below, and to +have set back the sub-arches and tympanum. In consequence of Archbishop +Roger’s arrangement the shafts of the comprising arch stand, not upon +the sill of the triforium, but upon corbels, each of which carries two +of them and also a roof-shaft<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> which forms with them a cluster.</p> + +<p>The clearstorey shows in the broad bay a stilted round arch, pierced, +between two small blind lancets, and in the narrow bay three small blind +lancets. These arches are not recessed or moulded, and are without +hoods, as usual. Their piers, behind which is a passage, are square, and +the impost moulding is continued as a string.</p> + +<p>The roof-shafts have a curious break in them at the impost-level of the +triforium, where a face is carved upon them with a band above it. They +are banded also by the impost-moulding of either storey, and by the +upper string-course, and end in square-topped capitals a little short of +the present roof. Throughout Archbishop Roger’s church the roof was +probably flat, or slightly coved as at Peterborough. The corbels from +which the roof-shafts spring are moulded and finished off with scrolls, +and are placed at the level of the string-course, which is undercut; but +on either side of the tower-arches the shafts have been shortened to a +point above the string, which has been made continuous beneath them, and +instead of corbels they have grotesque heads carved upon their ends. +Beyond the westernmost roof-shaft there is a further shaft, which at +first sight seems to have been the beginning of another bay, but the +round moulding which rises from it runs up vertically instead of curving +over to form an arch.</p> + +<p>The western wall is far more impressive from within the church than from +without, and shows the Early English style at its best. The three +doorways have stilted segmental arches moulded with rounds, and their +hood-moulds are continuous. Their shafts are single and engaged, and in +the jambs are holes for the great bars which no doubt held the doors +against the Scots in 1318. But if the doorways are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>plainer, the great +lancets above are much richer, on this side than on the other. Their +arches have more mouldings, their hood-moulds as well as the +string-courses are enriched with the nailhead, the dog-tooth is used +more profusely, and the piers are clusters of seven engaged shafts +instead of five, banded at half their height and having behind them in +both tiers passages which formerly communicated with the towers. The +glass, by Burlison and Grylls, is worthy of its framing. It was put up +to the memory of the late Bishop in 1886. In the lower tier “the earthly +type” is represented by the Parable of the Ten Virgins. In the upper +tier, in which the various designs represent “the Heavenly type,” the +Bride is the Church, and Our Lord is seen enthroned and surrounded by +choirs of angels.</p> + +<p>The yellow gritstone of the older work is contrasted curiously with the +white limestone of the Perpendicular nave, and at the junction the later +builders have left a jagged edge. Among very late Gothic buildings there +are few indeed which are of so good a quality as this nave of Ripon, +which, like the late church towers of Somerset, shows that mediæval art +took long to die out in regions remote from London. It is, indeed, the +architecture of the days of Agincourt rather than of the eve of the +English Renaissance. The pillars are characteristic of the Perpendicular +style, their section being a square with a semi-circle projecting from +each side, and the corners hollowed. Their bases have complex plinths of +considerable height and are polygonal, but follow roughly the form of +the pillar, and the mouldings, as usual in this style, overhang the +plinth. The capitals, with small mouldings and many angles, are of +somewhat the same form as the bases. On the westernmost complete pillar +of the north arcade are two shields, charged respectively with the arms +of Ripon (a horn) and of Pigott of Clotherholme. The arches, instead of +being of that depressed form which is so common in late work, are very +beautifully proportioned, and their mouldings are bold, numerous and +well-cut. There is no triforium; but a passage, at a slightly lower +level than in Archbishop Roger’s bays, runs below the great clearstorey +windows, which were once, no doubt, gorgeous with stained glass. Their +arches are moulded, but the splay is left plain. The roof-shafts, which +are in clusters of three and have fillets upon them, spring from +semi-octagonal corbels, and where each cluster passes the string-course +there is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>an angel holding a shield. A sign of decadence may be found, +perhaps, in the way in which the hood-moulds of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>windows intersect +with these shafts. Though the two sides of the nave are not quite of the +same date, they are almost alike, but for some slight differences in the +capitals, the arch-mouldings, and the hollows on the pillars; the +builders feeling doubtless that any marked variation would mar the +general perspective—a consideration which, of course, could not bind +them in designing the north aisle. The original Perpendicular roof may +have resembled that which now covers the transepts. About 1829 Blore put +up an almost flat ceiling of deal. The present oaken vault, by Sir +Gilbert Scott, was copied from that of the transepts of York Minster, +and is adapted to the old roof-shafts, between which have been added +angel corbels of wood. As the ribs intersect near their springing, they +weave a network over the whole vault, and the carved bosses at the +intersections amount to 107. A passing notice is merited by the pulpit, +which is Jacobean.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 361px;"> +<a name="image20" id="image20"></a><a href="images/image20-full.jpg"><img src="images/image20.jpg" width="361" height="482" alt="Photo of the interior of the cathedral" title="THE NAVE, LOOKING WESTWARDS" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE NAVE, LOOKING WESTWARDS.</p> + +</div> + +<p>East of the five Perpendicular bays remains the second fragment of the +old nave, namely, a portion of a broad bay, partly encased by the later +masonry, and one complete narrow bay. In the latter the tympanum on both +sides is relieved by a quatrefoil, which here is pierced and not +enclosed in a circle, and the last shaft eastwards (one of those of the +comprising arch) runs to the ground. Affixed to the north wall is an +eighteenth century monument to Hugh Ripley, last Wakeman and first Mayor +of Ripon (d. 1637). The original monument was destroyed during the Civil +War, but the altar-like erection below the present structure was +probably part of it. The roof-shaft west of this bay, for some unknown +reason, ends considerably short of the roof in a kind of corbel with +rude foliage upon it. In the south wall is a triangular piscina, which, +if it is of Roger’s date, is among the oldest piscinæ in the country.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 369px;"> +<a name="image21" id="image21"></a><a href="images/image21-full.jpg"><img src="images/image21.jpg" width="369" height="252" alt="Drawing of the plan of the crypt" title="PLAN OF THE SAXON CRYPT." /></a> +<p class="caption">PLAN OF THE SAXON CRYPT.</p> + +<p class="caption">(From drawings by Mr. W. H. St. John Hope and Mr. T. Wall.)</p> +</div> + +<p><b>The Saxon Crypt</b>, sometimes called <b>St. Wilfrid’s Needle</b>.—From a +trap-door in the pavement below the piscina a flight of twelve steps +winds down into a flat-roofed and descending passage, 2½ feet wide +and slightly over 6 feet high, which, running a few feet northwards and +bending at right angles round the south-west tower pier, extends +eastward for about 10 yards, with a descent of one step near the end, +and terminates in a blank wall. There is a square-headed niche at the +turn and a round-headed niche at the end, both meant, doubtless, to hold +lights. Three feet from the end a round-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>headed doorway, 2 feet wide and +over 6 feet high, opens northwards, with a descent of two more steps, +into a barrel-vaulted chamber, 11 feet 5 inches long from east to west, +7 feet 7 inches wide, and 9 feet 10 inches high. In the north wall of +this chamber, and approached by three rude steps, is the celebrated St. +Wilfrid’s Needle, a round-headed aperture pierced through into a passage +that runs behind. This aperture was connected with one of those +superstitions that so often flourished before the Reformation in notable +centres of religion, and ability to pass through it or ‘thread the +needle’ was regarded as a test of female chastity; but it was, of +course, in the later middle ages that this superstition arose, and the +‘needle’ (or rather needle’s eye) is evidently only one of the original +niches with the back knocked out. Of these niches (which again were +doubtless for lights) there are four in the chamber besides the +‘needle,’—one in each wall,—and, like the niche, at the end of the +passage of entrance, they all have semicircular heads each cut in a +single stone. That in the west wall has a hole or cup at the bottom, +probably to hold oil in which a wick might <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>float, while the others +(except the ‘needle’) have a sort of funnel at the top, doubtless to +catch the soot from lamps. In the east wall there is also a round-headed +recess of larger size, the meaning of which will be discussed later. An +excavation made in 1900 has lowered the earthen floor and revealed a +set-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>off running round the chamber,<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> and upon the ground at the east +end are traces of a later mediæval altar, namely, a long stone parallel +with the east wall and having behind it a small rectangular enclosure +bounded by other wrought stones. Some of the latter were only laid bare +at the above-mentioned excavation, when, moreover, the enclosure was +found to be a pit containing bones, some of which had belonged to a man, +others to an ox, others to a bird. These were probably regarded as +relics, and may have been buried here at the Reformation for safety,<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a> +but it is possible that they were placed here at an earlier period, and +that this is an instance of a relic-pit. Two other deposits have been +found in the crypt in modern times, one behind the niche in the south +wall of this chamber, the other behind the niche at the end of the +passage of entrance. Most of the bones in these deposits were human, but +one had belonged to an ox, another to a bird, another to a sheep, while +others could not be identified. These bones again were probably +‘relics,’ and had almost certainly been built up behind the niches at +the Reformation<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> for concealment. From the west end of the chamber +another doorway similar to the last opens, with an ascent of one step, +into a second chamber, 12 feet long from north to south, 4 feet wide, 9 +feet high, and roofed with a semi-vault rising eastwards, in which there +has been a square opening, probably for ventilation. At the north end a +flight of four steps, lighted doubtless from the square niche in the +west wall, ascends eastwards to the passage behind the ‘needle.’ Of +these steps the lowest occupies the whole width of the chamber, while +the second, on being cleaned at the time of the excavation +above-mentioned, was found to have its upper and western surfaces sunk +in the middle and traversed at one end by two parallel raised bands, and +to show traces of that yellow enamel-like substance with which, indeed, +the whole crypt seems to have been originally overlaid. In roof, width +and height the passage at the top of these steps resembles that by which +the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>crypt was approached, but it is spanned at the entrance by a round +arch, and gradually ascends, terminating in a staircase now blocked at +the fourth step (or perhaps the fifth, since one seems to have been +removed at the bottom), while in the roof may be traced the shape of the +long opening (rounded at the western end) through which these stairs +once led up into the church. From the point at which they are blocked +the distance to the arch that spans the passage is about 18 feet. It +will be noticed that the floor of this passage is level with the +‘needle,’ which on this side, moreover, has been broken through so as to +open out like a funnel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 366px;"> +<a name="image22" id="image22"></a><a href="images/image22-full.jpg"><img src="images/image22.jpg" width="366" height="408" alt="Photo of the crypt" title="THE SAXON CRYPT, EAST END OF THE CENTRAL CHAMBER." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE SAXON CRYPT, EAST END OF THE CENTRAL CHAMBER.</p> + +<p class="caption">(St. Wilfrid’s needle on the left.)</p> +</div> + + +<p>There is little doubt that this crypt is the work of Wilfrid. It +strongly resembles another at Hexham in Northumberland, which is almost +certainly his since it agrees with a description given by his +contemporary Eddius, and (more fully) by Richard, Prior of Hexham in the +twelfth century. As, therefore, Wilfrid is known to have built a church +in either of these places, and as the crypts remaining resemble each +other, and as that at Hexham is almost certainly his, it is natural to +conclude that this at Ripon is his also.<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> And the subject has had +fresh light thrown upon it as archæology has progressed. It is thought +that the Romanizing party which prevailed at the Synod of Whitby +affected for its churches the Italian type,<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> one of the +characteristics of which was the <i>Confessio</i>, an underground chamber for +relics<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> situated under the high altar, and surrounded, except toward +the church, by a passage reached by steps from the body of the building, +whence, moreover, there were generally steps leading up to the floor of +the presbytery, and sometimes an incline stretching down to a window +that looked into the chamber below. Now the present entrance to this +crypt at Ripon is not original. To mention some of the evidences of +this, there are in the roof of the passage several tombstones (one at +the entrance and two beyond the bend) bearing incised crosses of the +thirteenth <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>century, and 15 feet west of the doorway into the central +chamber there are signs that a cross-wall has been cut through. The only +part of the work, then, which is original is that which extends +eastwards of this point, and in Saxon times there was probably only one +entrance to the crypt, namely by the north passage; indeed, it seems +likely that the formation of an approach from the nave was +contemporaneous with the blocking of that passage, and that both +alterations were due to the incompatibility of the original disposition +of the crypt with the subsequent arrangements of the church above. Now +if that original disposition has been indicated correctly, the crypt +presented all the more important characteristics of a <i>confessio</i>. There +is the central chamber with a window looking into it (for this is the +probable explanation of the arched recess in the east wall),<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a> and +there is the surrounding passage, which, however, is interrupted at the +south-west corner of the crypt in such a way that it is necessary to +pass through the chamber itself.<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a> An excavation made in 1891<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> +failed to reveal any traces of a staircase at the east end of the south +passage, but as there are many instances in Italy of a <i>confessio</i> +without a second stair, this failure is of little importance. If, then, +this crypt may be assumed to be a <i>confessio</i>, there follows a very +interesting consequence. The fact that the surrounding passage was +entered from the east, that it runs round the west and not the east end +of the central chamber, and that the blocked window (if such it be) is +in the east wall of the latter, indicates that the nave lay to the +east,<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> in other words, that the presbytery was at the west end of the +church. Such a position for the high altar is ultra-Roman, was already +being discontinued in Wilfrid’s day, and had probably never been seen in +the north, unless here and at Hexham; all of which considerations, in +the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>light of the known bias and character of Wilfrid, are in favour of +the theory above propounded.<a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> It is impossible to say with certainty +whether Wilfrid’s presbytery was apsidal or square; and whether his +church had aisles or not.<a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<a name="image23" id="image23"></a><a href="images/image23-full.jpg"><img src="images/image23.jpg" width="168" height="132" alt="Drawing of plan of the crypt" title="CONJECTURAL PLAN OF THE CRYPT AND PRESBYTERY IN THE TIME +OF WILFRID, BY MR. J. T. MICKLETHWAITE, V.P.S.A." /></a> +<p class="caption">CONJECTURAL PLAN OF THE CRYPT AND PRESBYTERY IN THE TIME +OF WILFRID, BY MR. J. T. MICKLETHWAITE, V.P.S.A.</p> + +<p class="caption">(By permission of the Archæological Institute.)</p> +</div> + +<p>There remains the question whether this crypt was or was not under the +church of the monastery. In Leland’s description of Ripon,<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> “the Old +Abbay of Ripon” is certainly represented as having stood on the site +which in Leland’s time was occupied by the Lady-kirk, adjacent, that is, +to the west side of the street now called St. Mary-gate;<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> and it has +been argued with great ability<a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> (on the supposition that “the Old +Abbay” means the Saxon Monastery) that this crypt, though almost +certainly Wilfrid’s, was under a second church outside the monastery +wall.<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> It is, however, still possible to suppose that the site in St. +Mary-gate may have been that of the domestic <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>buildings only, and that +the monastery church stood over this crypt; or that “the Old Abbay” +means the Scottish Monastery, the site of which was also probably not +far from St. Mary-gate and may have been confused by Leland with that +afterwards occupied by the Lady-kirk. Nor in any case, perhaps, are the +mere statements of Leland a sufficient foundation for the argument that +has been constructed upon them. Indeed, an elaborate <i>confessio</i> like +this would hardly have been made for any church other than that of the +monastery.</p> + +<p>And if, after all, Wilfrid’s monastery church stood above this crypt, +there arises a very interesting probability in connection with that part +of the south passage which extends 15 feet westward from the doorway +opening into the central chamber, namely that it was the original +burial-place of Wilfrid himself, whom Bede declares to have been laid +<i>juxta altare ad austrum</i>.<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a></p> + +<p>The position of the crypt suggests the history of the ground plan of the +Cathedral. After the destruction of Wilfrid’s Church, the site of his +nave became that of the choir, and a nave was added westwards. Thus it +came about that the crypt is now in the centre of the building. The +central line or axis of the church in all stages of its history has +probably always passed over this crypt.</p> + +<p><b>The Aisles of the Nave.</b>—As no aisles were contemplated when the west +towers were built, the east side of the latter shows, of course, the +same external decoration as the other sides. At the back of the +surviving portions of the old nave there may be seen at the western end +of either aisle one of Archbishop Roger’s buttresses, and at the eastern +end a roughened surface where another buttress has been removed. The two +buttresses that remain have a large set-off near the bottom, and they do +not diminish as they ascend; while from their upper portions, which are +visible outside the church, it would seem that they rose to the very top +of the walls. At a little over 16 feet from the ground there remains +upon them a portion of an external string-course, which is not on a +level with any of those on the exterior of the transepts. Either aisle +opens into the transept with a massive arch resembling those of the +north main arcade, and has along the foot of its wall a bench table, +from which rise the vaulting-shafts. But though preparation <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>had been +made for stone vaulting, the roofs were of wood until the last +restoration, when Sir Gilbert Scott put up the present stone groining. +The effect is good, but would have been better had there been ridge-ribs +and bosses.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 361px;"> +<a name="image24" id="image24"></a><a href="images/image24-full.jpg"><img src="images/image24.jpg" width="361" height="301" alt="Photo of fonts" title="THE TWO FONTS, TWELFTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES" /></a> + +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE TWO FONTS, TWELFTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES.</p> +</div> + + +<p><b>The South Aisle</b> contains the font, which was probably among the latest +additions to the church before the dissolution, and formerly stood at +the west end of the nave. This font is raised upon two circular steps, +and is octagonal and of blue marble, with the various surfaces of base, +stem, and bowl slightly hollowed. The sides of the bowl and also of the +base bear shields and lozenges alternately, and upon the base the +lozenges are richly carved. In a corner hard by stands another and much +older font—probably that of Archbishop Roger’s <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>church. It is a +circular basin, adorned with an arcade of trefoil arches.<a name="FNanchor_76_76" id="FNanchor_76_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;"> +<a name="image25" id="image25"></a><a href="images/image25-full.jpg"><img src="images/image25.jpg" width="359" height="137" alt="Drawing of bas-relief" title="BAS-RELIEF IN THE SOUTH AISLE OF THE NAVE." /></a> +<p class="caption">BAS-RELIEF IN THE SOUTH AISLE OF THE NAVE.<br /> + +(Reduced from a rubbing.)</p> +</div> + +<p>Against the wall a little further eastwards is an altar-tomb of great +interest. The marble slab at the top has at one end a bas-relief +representing a grove, and in it a lion walking away from a man, who +kneels in an attitude of supplication with his back to the lion, while +between the two figures is a bird flying toward the man. Tradition says +that this is the tomb of an Irish prince who brought back from Palestine +a lion that had there become attached to him, but a story of this kind +was popular in mediæval romances,<a name="FNanchor_77_77" id="FNanchor_77_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> and the tradition, though of some +age, is not, perhaps, very probable. It has been well suggested that the +sculpture represents deliverance from a lion in answer to prayer; but as +it is possibly only part of a larger composition, its full meaning must +still be doubtful.<a name="FNanchor_78_78" id="FNanchor_78_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a> The work is rather Flemish in character, and may +be assigned to the fourteenth century, with which date the costume of +the man agrees. Thus the slab is considerably older than the wall to +which it is now affixed, and it is doubtless older than the lower part +of the tomb itself, which may be <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>of the same date as the aisle. There +is a black-letter inscription upon the front of the structure, but it is +unfortunately quite illegible. An entry in the Chapter Acts<a name="FNanchor_79_79" id="FNanchor_79_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a> +indicates that this tomb was used as a money-table in business +transactions between the mediæval townsmen.</p> + +<p>The windows have their sides moulded, but somewhat clumsily. That above +the font contains the only mediæval glass in the Cathedral, a collection +of fragments chiefly of the fourteenth century. Most of these were +originally in the great window of the choir, where, being in the upper +tracery, they had escaped the violence of Sir Thomas Mauleverer’s +troopers. Among the figures in the medallions are St. Peter, St. Paul, +and St. Andrew, and there is a fine shield of the arms of England, with +a border or mantling of France, and surmounted by a label of three +points azure.<a name="FNanchor_80_80" id="FNanchor_80_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a> The quality of the glass is exceedingly good, and the +window, when the sun shines through it, resembles a screen of gems, and +puts its neighbours to shame. The fourth window from the west, however, +by Clayton & Bell, is of considerable merit. The vaulting-shafts are in +clusters of three, and have overhanging bell-shaped bases with polygonal +plinths, while upon the capitals are angels bearing shields, one angel +to each cluster. The last two shields eastwards are charged respectively +with the arms of Archbishop Savage (1501-1507), and with the three stars +of St. Wilfrid. Where these shafts break the string-course under the +windows they are encircled by a thin band. Upon the eastern fragment of +the old nave there remains in this aisle another portion of Archbishop +Roger’s external string-course, and also (near the last capital of the +arcade) some trace of a band of ornament.</p> + +<p>The western end of the <b>North Aisle</b> is the Consistory Court, and has been +used as an ecclesiastical court since 1722, when Ripon was still in the +diocese of York. Over the Chancellor’s seat is a modern canopy of +stained deal, which formerly surmounted the throne in the choir. The +stone base of the railings, with its many projecting angles and its band +of delicate quatrefoils, is thought to have formed part of the shrine of +St. Wilfrid, and, having been found in fragments, was placed here <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>by +Sir Gilbert Scott. In this aisle the sides of the windows are partially +panelled. The glass is of little interest, save that in the third window +from the west, by Burlison & Grylls, and a few seventeenth century +fragments. The vaulting-shafts here are single, and are half-octagons +with their sides slightly hollowed, and they again break the +string-course, which rises to pass over the doorway. Of the shields on +their angel capitals the three easternmost are charged respectively with +the arms of Fountains Abbey<a name="FNanchor_81_81" id="FNanchor_81_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a> (three horse-shoes), with those of +Cardinal Archbishop Bainbridge (1508-1514) (supported by <i>two</i> angels), +and with the stars of St. Wilfrid. The arch opening into the transept is +not so high as in the other aisle, and upon the space above it are +portions of a once external string-course and buttress.</p> + +<p><b>The Central Tower.</b>—It is from the interior of the church that the +extent of the repairs necessitated by the partial fall of the tower can +best be realized, and it is here that the documentary evidence for their +dates may best be summed up. The catastrophe itself is described in an +indulgence of 1450 by Archbishop Kemp, but the repairs had not advanced +much by 1459, for in that year a testator bequeaths money to this +object, “<i>cum fuerit in operando</i>.” It would seem, however, from an +indulgence of Archbishop George Neville that the tower had been +partially repaired by 1465. After a bequest in 1466 (the last of a +series beginning in 1454), it seems to be next mentioned in the Fabric +Roll for 1541-2, and the Chapter Acts speak of the work that remained to +be done as late as 1545. The order, therefore, of the larger operations +in the Perpendicular period was probably as follows:—First the Canons +remodelled the two ruinous sides of the tower and the east side of the +south transept (where the work much resembles that in the tower), then +they rebuilt the nave,<a name="FNanchor_82_82" id="FNanchor_82_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> then the western bays on the south side of +the choir (as the late character of the work itself would indicate),<a name="FNanchor_83_83" id="FNanchor_83_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a> +and lastly they <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>were about to remodel the two remaining sides of the +tower when they were checked by the dissolution.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 358px;"> +<a name="image26" id="image26"></a><a href="images/image26-full.jpg"><img src="images/image26.jpg" width="358" height="457" alt="Photo of interior of cathedral" title="THE WESTERN ARCH OF THE CENTRAL TOWER." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE WESTERN ARCH OF THE CENTRAL TOWER.</p> +</div> + + +<p>The planning of the Cathedral is remarkably irregular. Not only is the +axis of the choir, as in so many churches, inclined<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> (here toward the +north) but the centre of the Rood Screen is south of the axis of the +nave, and the north side of the tower is not parallel to the south side, +the north-west angle being less than a right angle. This is the only +angle which remains in its original condition, and here the responds of +the two adjacent arches stand upon one circular plinth, their own bases +being, however, rectangular, though following in the upper mouldings the +forms of the shafts. The capitals of the latter are, as usual, +square-topped. The respond of the western arch has a semicircular shaft +upon the front, and a smaller shaft at the west side, where the pier is +twice recessed. The arch itself springs from the level of the top of +Archbishop Roger’s triforium, is semicircular, and has more orders +toward the west than toward the east, but the mouldings (chiefly rounds) +are lacking in boldness, and the absence of a hood-mould (both in this +arch and the other) is a disadvantage. The other respond is concealed by +a huge Perpendicular casing, which, obtruding as it does into the arch, +is a very conspicuous object in the view from the west doors. Upon the +piers of this arch toward the nave are some curious brackets, which +probably supported the original rood-beam.<a name="FNanchor_84_84" id="FNanchor_84_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a></p> + +<p>The northern arch springs from a higher level, and is less richly +decorated than the other, and its form is almost segmental. It has more +orders toward the south than toward the north, and again the mouldings +are chiefly rounds. Its western respond has a shaft on the front, and at +the south side another, which is banded at the springing-level of the +western arch and carried up to that of the northern arch, where it ends +in a three-sided capital, upon which stands another and very short +shaft, complete with base and capital, that carries the rim of the arch +and an angle of masonry that projects from the corner. The lower portion +of this respond is cased by a rectangular addition (almost as old as the +pier itself), which has upon the front a massive detached shaft with a +circular capital, on which stands a quaint figure of King James I., +brought from the screen of York Minster. To support an image of some +kind may, perhaps, have always been the purpose of this pillar. It has +been suggested that there is a similar projection concealed behind the +casing of the south-western pier.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>Over these two arches is a bold cornice, which possibly once supported a +ceiling, and the blind storey above shows in each wall two pairs of +plain lancets with the impost-moulding continued as a string, and with a +passage behind. In the third storey, where again there is a passage, the +two windows in each wall have a third arch (also round) between them, +and alternating with these three arches are little lancets which have +been blocked as far up as the imposts, their shafts having been first +removed. A cornice supports the ceiling, and on the west side there are +also some rather inexplicable corbels.</p> + +<p>The builders of this tower were certainly misguided in employing round +arches to support it, at a time when (as the choir shows) pointed arches +of considerable size were in common use, and it would seem that the +superior strength of the latter form was not yet fully realized. No +stronger specimens of that form are to be found, perhaps, than the +arches that support the two remaining sides. Their giant piers are +clusters of engaged cylindrical shafts with rounded hollows between, and +at each remodelled angle of the tower the two adjacent responds are +treated as one whole, presenting seven shafts almost on the same plane. +The bases, with their complex plinths and overhanging upper mouldings, +are over five feet high, and the capitals are polygonal, with small and +shallow mouldings, of which the lowest follows the form of the pier. +Slightly stilted, richly moulded, and of many orders, these arches are +so lofty as to leave no room for a blind storey above. Though the +windows here are set higher in the wall, their rear-arches reach down +nearly to the Transitional sill-level. Between the two windows in either +wall a shaft springs from an angel corbel at the string-course below the +sills, and runs up in a kind of groove, and these two shafts, with +another which springs from the junction of the two great arches, end +short of the present ceiling in semi-octagonal capitals, while on the +east wall, and at a lower level, there are more corbels. Indeed, from +the various corbels and shafts in this storey it would seem that the +level of the ceiling had been altered, possibly more than once, and +perhaps that it was destined to be altered again when the remodelling +should be complete. The present ceiling, flat and painted with good +effect, was put up by Sir Gilbert Scott.</p> + +<p><b>The Transepts.</b>—The length of either transept is 43 feet, and that of +both together (including the crossing) is 134 feet, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>or about the same +as the length of the nave. In the transepts and choir the relative +proportion of the three storeys or stages to one another, which in the +nave was so remarkable, becomes more ordinary, and the change in the +level of the triforium passage—due to the heightening of the lowest +stage to meet the exigencies of aisles—necessitates long staircases +(now blocked) behind the western piers of the tower: and the same is the +case (though in a less degree) with the clearstorey, which in this part +of the church is loftier, instead of being shorter, than the triforium. +In either transept a bench-table runs along the west wall, and the large +lower windows are plainly splayed, but have their sills stepped. The +glass in them is bad, except some seventeenth century pieces in the +window over the north door. The roof, which is of oak, and +Perpendicular, had been concealed in the time of Blore by sham Norman +vaulting constructed of <i>papier maché</i>. Sir Gilbert Scott removed this +abomination and exposed the old ceiling, which he repaired and partially +renewed. It is almost flat, is raised on wooden figure-corbels, which +prevent it from intersecting with the tower arches, and is adorned with +judicious colour.</p> + +<p><b>The North Transept</b>, which is 34 feet wide, or 52 feet if the ‘aisle’ be +included, is almost as its builders left it, and is among the most +famous examples of the architecture of the age of Henry II. and Thomas à +Becket, when the early English style was being developed from the +Norman. As the details are the same here as in all Archbishop Roger’s +work, they need no further description. To take the west and north walls +first, the Perpendicular arch opening into the aisle of the nave cuts +into two blocked round arches, of which that on the right was a window, +while that on the left is backed by the old nave wall; and in this first +bay (which is narrower than the others in both this and the opposite +wall) the triforium arches are blocked up, as well as the first lancet +in the clearstorey, where there is moreover no window. Each bay shows in +the triforium two pointed arches with a pierced quatrefoil between them, +and in the clearstorey a stilted round arch, pierced and glazed, between +two smaller arches of lancet form, which on the north wall are very +curiously barred across at the impost level, the <i>abaci</i> of two shafts +being formed by one slab.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 351px;"> +<a name="image27" id="image27"></a><a href="images/image27-full.jpg"><img src="images/image27.jpg" width="351" height="518" alt="Photo of the interior of the cathedral" title="THE NORTH TRANSEPT" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE NORTH TRANSEPT.</p> +</div> + + +<p>The east wall is much more richly treated, and harmonizes in design with +the choir. It might perhaps be more proper to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"><br />[88]</a></span>describe the aisles of +these transepts as a series of eastern chapels. Their floor is raised +two steps above the body of the transept, from which they were evidently +once railed off, and in either transept the two outer bays are walled +off from that nearest to the tower. At any rate the arches here have the +appearance of independent units rather than of a continuous arcade. +Separated by roof-shafts of unusual bulk, their responds consist each of +three engaged shafts with a fourth to carry the aisle-vault; and the +bases, rectangular but with the upper mouldings following the pillar, +are united with those of the roof-shafts, while the capitals as usual +are square-topped. The actual arches are of two orders, each of which +has the edge-roll, while under the soffit, which is flat, is another +roll between two mouldings that are hook-shaped in section. The arch +nearest to the tower has given way slightly and has been blocked up, +apparently not very long after it was built, for in the blocking wall is +an acutely-pointed and thrice-recessed doorway of decidedly early +character, and the material throughout is gritstone. The wooden doors +are probably Perpendicular work.</p> + +<p>Adjoining this doorway is a Perpendicular stone pulpit, which has a base +but no stem, and is ascended by means of three steps only. It has five +sides, and is covered with rich panelling, but the top has apparently +been taken off. This may not indeed be its original position,<a name="FNanchor_85_85" id="FNanchor_85_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> yet it +was a mediæval custom to deliver the sermon just as the procession was +about to enter the choir, and this pulpit is most conveniently placed +for such a purpose. If this is not its original position, it may perhaps +be identified with a nave pulpit mentioned in the Chapter Acts.</p> + +<p>On this east side the triforium shows in each bay a semicircular arch +comprising two pierced lancets and flanked by two blind lancets, with a +quatrefoil pierced through the tympanum under the comprising arch, an +arrangement that is the germ of tracery. Here there is no passage in the +thickness of the wall, as there was an open gallery over the aisle until +the external roof was lowered and the back of the arches blocked.</p> + +<p>In the clearstorey the shafts of the round arch in each bay are doubled, +each couple sharing a common plinth and capital, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>from which latter +springs a tiny shaft that carries the edge-roll of the arch; and the +lancet arches also, where they adjoin the solid piers between the bays, +have a shaft in the jamb. On all three walls the shafts in this storey +stand on a kind of kerb or parapet, which is interrupted in the middle +of each bay, and the stilt of the round arch is treated almost like a +classical entablature, and has a moulding or cornice above it, while the +uppermost part of the wall is thickened, thereby necessitating over each +bay a comprising arch, which on the north wall is round, but on the +other walls follows the shape of the three sub-arches, and forms a kind +of upper order to them.</p> + +<p>The roof-shafts, which do not break the string-courses, spring from very +various levels: on the east side from the ground, and on the north side +from the unusually high level of the second string, while on the west +side one cluster rises from the first string and the other from above +the second string (having perhaps been shortened in the last case to +make way for the Perpendicular arch beneath). On the east and west walls +these shafts are of a thickness which, besides being out of proportion +to the other parts of the architecture, is structurally unnecessary, for +they do not directly support the roof at all, but end at the top of the +triforium in triple capitals, of which the central member is square and +the others round. Upon each of these capitals, stand three detached and +much thinner shafts—namely, that which really carried the roof-beams, +and those (adjacent to it) of the arches that carry the above-mentioned +thickening of the wall. Thus is afforded a striking instance of the +tendency, so often exemplified in Archbishop Roger’s work, to use two +shafts, one on the top of the other, instead of prolonging one—a +tendency which marks the organic development of the style as still +incomplete. On the north wall the three shafts in each cluster are +carried up from their corbel to the top in one piece, unbroken save by a +band at the impost level of the triforium and another at the third +string, and they seem detached throughout their height both from the +wall and from each other. At each corner of the transept the thickening +of the wall over the clearstorey arcade is carried by a shaft which +rises from the bench-table or the ground.</p> + +<p>The roof is entirely modern, and the shields on its corbels bear the +arms of the chief promoters of the last restoration.</p> + +<p>Against the north wall is a fifteenth century altar-tomb, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>covered with +inferior panelling and shields of arms, and surmounted by the figures of +Sir Thomas and Lady (Eleanor) Markenfield; and adjoining this tomb +(which formerly stood within the aisle) is the lid of a thirteenth +century stone coffin on the floor. In the aisle stands another +altar-tomb, which has the sides panelled and adorned with shields of +arms and bears the figure of an earlier Sir Thomas Markenfield, clad in +armour of the period between Poitiers and Agincourt, and wearing a very +curious collar of park palings with a stag couchant in front, possibly +(as has been suggested) a badge of adherence to the party of Lancaster. +The figure of Lady Markenfield has, unfortunately, been destroyed.<a name="FNanchor_86_86" id="FNanchor_86_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a></p> + +<p>The aisle is often called the Markenfield Chapel, and doubtless +contained the Markenfield family chantry, which seems to have become +afterwards merged in another foundation.<a name="FNanchor_87_87" id="FNanchor_87_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a> The two bays were +apparently once walled off from each other, the dividing wall having +perhaps been removed to make way for this Markenfield tomb. At any rate, +between the bays of the vaulting there is a plain cross-arch of +remarkable thickness, whose eastern respond is cut off above the tomb, +as are also the two adjacent vaulting-shafts, which have had heads +carved upon their ends. The south wall is probably original, since (to +mention one reason) part of the string-course upon it is worked on the +same stone with the vaulting-shaft. The lower parts of the walls display +traces of a design in red representing round arches interlaced. In the +north wall there is a square aumbry, and in the south wall a large +piscina, with trefoil head and projecting basin. If this piscina is +original, it is a very fine specimen for so early a date. A huge +eighteenth century monument to Sir Edward Blacket of Newby almost covers +the southernmost window, but the remaining two contain glass of some +merit, which in that facing east commemorates the recovery from fever of +King Edward VII., then Prince of Wales. The vaulting springs from single +cylindrical shafts, which rise from the ground and do not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>interrupt the +string-course. Their bases have three-sided plinths, and their capitals +are enriched with stiff foliage and are three-sided above.</p> + +<p>The vaulting, which is apparently original, deserves especial notice. +Its bays are square, and the groin ribs consist each of three round +mouldings, of which the most prominent is ‘keeled’;<a name="FNanchor_88_88" id="FNanchor_88_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a> but what is most +remarkable is that there are also ridge-ribs, which are not usually +found before the thirteenth century, and it has been suggested<a name="FNanchor_89_89" id="FNanchor_89_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a> that +this is the earliest instance of their employment. There are also +wall-ribs, and these and the ridge-ribs are much thinner than the +groin-ribs, and consist of a single roll only.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;"> +<a name="image28" id="image28"></a><a href="images/image28-full.jpg"><img src="images/image28.jpg" width="364" height="258" alt="Photo of the interior of the cathedral" title="VAULT OF THE NORTH TRANSEPT AISLE, TWELFTH CENTURY." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">VAULT OF THE NORTH TRANSEPT AISLE, TWELFTH CENTURY.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>The South Transept</b> is narrower than the other by a yard, its width being +49 feet to the aisle wall (which, it should <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>be noticed, has not been +rebuilt). Without the aisle the width is only 30 feet, but this is +partly due to the Perpendicular alterations. The end and west side of +this transept, which remain more or less as they were in Archbishop +Roger’s day, resemble the corresponding walls of the other, yet with the +following differences. The roof-shafts on the west side are thinner here +than there, and are carried up to the required height in one piece, +unbroken save by the string-courses.</p> + +<p>In connection with the attachment of shafts of any considerable height +to wall-surfaces in Archbishop Roger’s work, it will be observed that +though the shafts (according to the general practice of masonry) are +usually made in short joints built in at the back, yet (as here) their +jointing sometimes does not harmonize with the coursing of the wall; +again (as in the old nave and north transept) the shafts of a cluster +are sometimes not worked all on the same stones.</p> + +<p>To return to the differences of this transept from the other, the +roof-shafts over the inserted Perpendicular arch (which here obtrudes +into the triforium) descend no lower than the sill of the clearstorey. +Again, the thickening of the walls at the top is supported in the +south-west angle not by one shaft but by two, one of which stands on a +projecting strip of masonry that runs up the angle to the triforium. The +design of the eighteenth century monument against the south wall, to Mr. +Weddell of Newby, is taken from that of the choragic monument of +Lysicrates at Athens.</p> + +<p>On the east side, which has been entirely remodelled in the +Perpendicular period, the bay next to the tower displays from the ground +to the triforium a plain surface broken only by a pointed doorway +surmounted by three cinquefoiled niches with ogee crocketed hoods. The +doorway retains its original doors with an ornamental iron scutcheon +over the keyhole. In their great strength, and in their treatment +generally, the two arches opening into the aisle resemble the +Perpendicular arches of the central tower. The triforium stage is +exceedingly poor, and shows traces of more or less modern disfigurement. +Each bay contains a single arch which does not occupy the whole space, +and which is surmounted by a hood-mould and divided into two sub-arches, +but without cusps. Here again the arches were once pierced through to a +gallery over the aisle, as the exterior of the wall plainly shows; and +this seems to indicate <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>either that the external roof had not been +lowered when these Perpendicular repairs took place, or that possibly +the two lower storeys of Archbishop Roger’s wall were left standing, and +have been, not rebuilt, but cased. The appearance of the wall externally +suggests that these arches may have once been round, and the unusual +bulk of the two aisle-arches seems further to support the theory of a +‘casing.’ In the clearstorey the windows have hood-moulds, but otherwise +are treated much as in the nave. The southernmost contains a fragment of +old glass, bearing the words ‘Jhesu mercy.’ Along the sill of the +passage may be seen the stumps of uprights which may perhaps have +supported a rail. The roof-shafts are clustered and extremely thick, and +appear the more awkward in that the wall and the shafts with it are set +back at the base of the triforium. In this transept the ceiling is old, +and among the heraldic devices carved upon it are those of the church +itself, St. Wilfrid, the See of York, the Pigotts, the Nortons, and +Fountains Abbey.</p> + +<p>The aisle, the walls of which have not been rebuilt, and which has a +chequered pavement of uncertain date, was for some centuries the +burial-place of the owners of Studley Royal, and is often called the +Mallory Chapel. A curious recess in the south wall is concealed by the +monument of John Aislabie of Studley, Chancellor of the Exchequer at the +time of the South Sea Bubble, and against the north wall is a monument +to that Sir John Mallory of Studley who defended Skipton Castle for +Charles I., and delivered Ripon from Sir Thomas Mauleverer. There is a +square aumbry to the right of this monument, and in the next bay +another, divided by a stone shelf and having modern doors with +ornamental iron-work. The northern bay is almost wholly occupied by a +stone staircase leading up to two doors, one of which opens on the left +into a chamber now containing the bellows of the organ, while the other +opens into the Lady-loft or Library. Over the latter door and over the +Mallory monument will be observed traces of two original windows, which, +before the erection of the Lady-loft, admitted doubtless whatever light +was not blocked out by the old roof of the Chapter-house. On this wall +hangs a royal escutcheon bearing the motto of James I. The vaulting is +Perpendicular, but two of the original supports remain on the east side. +The shaft in the south-east corner resembles <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>those in the Markenfield +Chapel, save that its capital has no foliage; but between the two bays, +instead of two shafts flanking the respond of a thick cross-arch, there +is a cluster of three detached shafts, banded at the string-course, and +sharing a common capital with a semi-octagonal top. It would seem, +therefore, that the two bays here were never walled off from one +another.<a name="FNanchor_90_90" id="FNanchor_90_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> At the north-east corner the vaulting springs from a +Perpendicular corbel. Its moulded ribs are exceedingly ponderous, and +one of them, not having room to descend upon the pillar, is finished off +with a head. The present Library staircase was put up by Sir Gilbert +Scott in place of an older flight attached to the north wall, and upon +the latter may be seen (behind the stairs) traces of mural paintings in +red and green, representing the Adoration of the Magi and other +subjects. The archaic character of these paintings indicates the age of +the wall, which, nevertheless (unlike the corresponding wall in the +Markenfield Chapel), seems to have been an afterthought, since it +differs from the other walls in the coursing of the stone and in the +pattern of the string-course, and, moreover, at its northern end there +is a ‘straight joint,’ visible in the choir-aisle.</p> + +<p><b>The Rood Screen</b>, according to Sir Gilbert Scott, is of a date a few +years earlier than 1494, but, if so, it has taken the place of another, +which is mentioned in the Fabric Rolls as early as 1408.<a name="FNanchor_91_91" id="FNanchor_91_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a> The general +design is that of an arched doorway with four large niches on either +side, and a tier of twenty-four small niches over all. The doorway, +which retains its original panelled doors, has three shafts in either +jamb, and is surmounted by a crocketed ogee hood, under which is a +sculpture representing the First Person of the Trinity with attendant +angels. A figure of the Saviour evidently once rested, as Walbran +noticed, upon the knees of the central Figure; above whose head or +shoulder, moreover, there was doubtless once a representation of the +Holy Dove. The niches again have crocketed ogee hoods, and in the lower +tier <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>contain pedestals bearing shields charged with the arms of the +Pigotts and other benefactors, while the sill of the last at either end +of this tier is considerably raised, and the space below panelled. The +niches contain ribbed vaults, and are cinquefoil, with feathered +cusping, and their hoods are prolonged so as to divide the members of +the upper tier into pairs; while from the sides of these hoods, from the +buttresses, and from the curve of the doorway, thin strips of stone, +adorned with knobs that distinctly add to the effect, are carried up to +the cornice, along which runs a row of shields bearing traces of colour. +In the lower part of the screen the spaces between the strips and under +the hoods are filled with tracery. The screen is 12 feet thick, and in +the passage through it are two doors, that on the right opening into a +winding staircase to the loft above, and that on the left into <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>a deep +pit, which once communicated, it is thought, with the north passage of +the Saxon crypt.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;"> +<a name="image29" id="image29"></a><a href="images/image29-full.jpg"><img src="images/image29.jpg" width="364" height="279" alt="Photo of the interior of the cathedral" title="THE ROOD SCREEN" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE ROOD SCREEN.</p> +</div> + + +<p><b>The Choir.</b>—The choir extends 92 feet eastward from the screen. Its +width is 33 feet between the columns, or 68 feet if the aisles be +included. A notable peculiarity in it is, that after the lowering of the +aisle-roofs externally, the triforium was glazed, so that there are two +tiers of windows above the main arches.<a name="FNanchor_92_92" id="FNanchor_92_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> Many styles meet here. The +first three bays on the north side are Archbishop Roger’s work, while +the three opposite are Perpendicular, and lastly, the three easternmost +bays on either side are chiefly Decorated.</p> + +<p>To begin with the north side. The arch in the first bay has been built +up, probably to strengthen the tower, and by the twelfth-century +builders themselves, for the abacus-moulding of the capital is continued +across the blocking wall. In the latter the fifteenth-century builders +have made a small pointed doorway, which is now blocked but apparently +once gave access from the top of the screen to a staircase in the north +aisle. This and the two next bays bear in all three stages a general +resemblance to the east side of the north transept. The columns, +however, are clusters of eight cylindrical shafts, and stand upon +circular plinths, the base proper following, of course, the form of the +pillar. The capitals, as usual, are compound and composed of plain +inverted bells, and have square tops with the abacus hollowed and +grooved. The arches differ from those in the transept only in that the +large moulding under the soffit is ‘keeled,’ and that the mouldings +which flank it are simple ridges. In the triforium the cusps visible in +the glazed sub-arches belong to some tracery which has been applied to +the back at a later period.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 367px;"> +<a name="image30" id="image30"></a><a href="images/image30-full.jpg"><img src="images/image30.jpg" width="367" height="545" alt="Photo of the interior of the cathedral" title="THE GREAT EAST WINDOW" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE GREAT EAST WINDOW.</p></div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 179px;"> +<a name="image31" id="image31"></a><a href="images/image31-full.png"><img src="images/image31.png" width="179" height="512" alt="Drawing of detail of cathedral" title="BAY OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER’S CHOIR (WITHOUT THE VAULTING)." /></a> +<p class="caption">BAY OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER’S CHOIR (WITHOUT THE VAULTING).</p> + +<p class="caption">(From a drawing by Sir G. G. Scott, by permission of the Archæological +Institute.)</p> +</div> + +<p>The treatment of the vaulting-shafts is very remarkable; indeed, nothing +is more instructive than the variety shown in the treatment of this +feature throughout Archbishop Roger’s church, the different parts of +which are suggestive of nothing so much as of a series of architectural +experiments. Here, upon the capital of each column, rests a sort of +compound rectangular plinth, from which project three corbels, hollowed +underneath and having little blocks beneath their overhanging edge. From +this plinth and corbels springs a cluster of no <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"><br />[98]</a></span>less than five shafts, +which, by their united width, conceal the springing of the upper order +of the main arches. They are banded at the string-course below the +triforium, and end at the sill of the clearstorey in a compound capital, +of which the three central members are square, and the others round. +Upon this capital, apparently, stand the two adjoining shafts that carry +the thickening of the wall above the clearstorey, and here (but hidden +by the vaulting) stands also the original roof-shaft, and these three +are ‘detached.’ Thus the arrangement is in principle similar to that +adopted in the north transept, while at the same time the clustered +shafts are even more disproportionate here than there to the slight +burden they have to carry; indeed the effect is that of five shafts +diminishing to one. The vaulting hides a feature which is not found in +the transept, namely, a little lancet arch whose apex comes exactly +behind the roof-shaft in each bay.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 158px;"> +<a name="image32" id="image32"></a><a href="images/image32-full.jpg"><img src="images/image32.jpg" width="158" height="334" alt="Photo of detail of the cathedral" title="DECORATED CAPITAL IN CHOIR" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">DECORATED CAPITAL IN CHOIR.</p> +</div> + +<p>Though the three eastern bays (still on the north side) are chiefly +Decorated, portions of Archbishop Roger’s work have been retained or +used again. Thus the fourth column from the west is his, and perhaps the +fifth up to the abacus, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>which is convex and of limestone. The respond +against the east wall is of his pattern, but it has not the circular +plinth, and the capital is of limestone, has the abacus moulded with +rounds upon the edge, and is covered with delicate foliage in the +Decorated manner. In these arches the lower order has exactly the same +mouldings as in the western bays, and is of gritstone, while the upper +order is of limestone, and has fillets upon the larger mouldings. It +would seem, therefore, that the later builders have used the original +archivolts again, and have merely added another order or orders over it. +The plane of the wall above, indeed, is brought forward to the face of +Archbishop Roger’s vaulting-shafts: yet without being really thickened, +since it is set back from his wall on the exterior. At the junction of +the old vaulting-shafts with the additional order of the first Decorated +arch the later builders have carved a group of grotesque faces. In each +bay of the Decorated triforium there is a round arch filled with tracery +consisting of three round-headed and trefoil lights with two circles +enclosing trefoils above them; and on either side of this arch (but on +one three only, in the first of the side bays) is a sunk lancet panel +enclosing a pointed arch impaling a trefoil. The clearstorey has a +second plane of tracery, a feature not very common in England. The +vaulting-shafts are in clusters of three and are filleted, and the +string-course below the triforium is not carried round them. Each +cluster springs from a semicircular corbel <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>resting on a head, and has +its capitals enriched with foliage. The last pendentive of the vaulting +rests on a single shaft springing directly from a head-corbel. The +string-courses are not of the same pattern with those on the older bays.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 312px;"> +<a name="image33" id="image33"></a><a href="images/image33-full.jpg"><img src="images/image33.jpg" width="312" height="386" alt="Photo of the interior of the cathedral" title="THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CHOIR" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CHOIR.</p> + +<p class="caption">(Junction of Transitional and Decorated work.)</p> + +</div> + +<p>On the south side the westernmost Perpendicular bay, up to the +triforium, is solid and covered with cinquefoil panelling. In the next +two bays the mouldings of the arch, among which a broad hollow is +conspicuous, are continued down the column, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>and there is no capital—a +sign of decadence more common in the Flamboyant work of the Continent +than here. There is, however, a debased half-capital on the east side of +the last Perpendicular column, and on the west side of it are three +small heads at the impost-level. These columns are lozenge-shaped in +section, wider from north to south than from east to west, and though +the mouldings end before they reach the bottom of the column, there is +no proper base. Each column has a shaft at the front and another at the +back, the former carrying the rim of the arch and having a stilted +polygonal base but no capital, while the latter has capital as well as +base (both polygonal), and helps to carry the aisle-vault. The spandrels +of these arches are filled with panelling, in which are several shields +(one bearing the arms of Pigott). The triforium again shows in each bay +a round arch; indeed, no better example than this choir could be found +of the truth that the form of the arch is not a safe guide to the date +of a building, but was often dictated by convenience; for here in the +triforium are round arches, of which some belong to the twelfth, others +to the thirteenth, and others to the sixteenth century. The fact that +the distance between the string-courses was already settled by the +Transitional bays, compelled the later builders to make their arches +round, as a pointed arch of the requisite width would have been too +tall. Here the round arch, which is again flanked by two panels, +comprises three cinquefoil lights, and the mullions are carried up +through the head. The panels are pointed and divided each into two +cinquefoil divisions. The Perpendicular clearstorey windows have their +rims moulded, but are not splayed. The vaulting-shafts resemble those in +the Decorated bays, but their corbels are polygonal and have the sides +slightly hollowed, and the abacus of the capital is a half-lozenge. The +string-courses have not been made to match either the Transitional or +the Decorated. The whole of this Perpendicular work is of very late +character, and justifies the belief that it was the last important +alteration in the fabric before the dissolution. Moreover, where it +meets the tower there seems to be a ‘straight joint,’ which indicates +that these bays are at any rate later than the tower piers.</p> + +<p>East of the Perpendicular pillars the next column is Arch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>bishop +Roger’s, and perhaps the next also, with the exception of its capital, +which has two rings upon the necking, with the rectangular top imposed +directly upon them and chamfered beneath, while the abacus (which is of +limestone) is convex.<a name="FNanchor_93_93" id="FNanchor_93_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> The respond against the east wall is again of +the old pattern, but without the circular plinth, and its capital +resembles that just described. In the westernmost of these southern +Decorated bays three styles meet. The lower order of the arch seems +again to be Transitional work, while in the triforium and clearstorey +Decorated arches have been filled with Perpendicular tracery. In the two +remaining bays the main arches are entirely Decorated, the lower order +being of limestone and the large moulding under the soffit having a +fillet. Over the last two complete columns there is a little foliage, +and of the corbels of the vaulting-shafts one is enriched with foliage +while the other consists of a head between two embracing figures. There +is foliage upon the capitals of these vaulting-shafts, and upon the +capital and base of that which supports the last pendentive of the +vaulting. With the exceptions mentioned, these bays resemble those +opposite.</p> + +<p>It has been remarked that the choir was probably as long in the twelfth +century as it is now. The point is indeed proved if (as there seems no +reason to doubt) the last complete column on either side is original and +occupies its original position; but a further indication is to be found +in the fact that the fragment of the original south wall, the end of +which is visible on the exterior between the south aisle and the apse, +extends well into the last bay of the present choir.<a name="FNanchor_94_94" id="FNanchor_94_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a></p> + +<p>The huge east window, which is not splayed, has a deep rear-vault +bounded by a massive rib, whose outer edge rests on slender engaged +shafts with foliage on their capitals, while the inner edge ends in +bunches of foliage. Between this rib and the tracery is another rib +springing on the north side from a bunch of foliage and on the south +from a grotesque corbel. The inner arch has slender shafts, and so has +the moulding next to the tracery, but in the latter case the capitals +are plain.<a name="FNanchor_95_95" id="FNanchor_95_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a> Few acts of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>vandalism are more to be regretted, +probably, than the destruction in 1643 of the magnificent fourteenth +century glass which once occupied this window. The present very poor +glass, by Wailes of Newcastle, commemorates the revival of the see of +Ripon in 1863.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 168px;"> +<a name="image34" id="image34"></a><a href="images/image34-full.jpg"><img src="images/image34.jpg" width="157" height="152" alt="Photo of detail of cathedral" title="A Bishop and a King." /></a> +<p class="caption">A Bishop and a King.</p> + +<a name="image35" id="image35"></a><a href="images/image35-full.jpg"><img src="images/image35.jpg" width="168" height="150" alt="Photo of detail of cathedral" title="The Expulsion from Paradise" /></a> +<p class="caption">The Expulsion from Paradise.</p> + +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">BOSSES FROM THE CHOIR-VAULT.</p> +</div> + + +<p>Over the window may be seen the mark of one of the earlier roofs. The +choir is thought to have received a groined vault of oak after the +rebuilding of the east end, but this vault was probably renewed more +than once, especially after the accident to the tower about 1450, and +the fall of the spire in 1660. Sir Gilbert Scott found a vault of lath +and plaster (probably the work of Blore) for which he substituted the +present roof, a groined wooden vault, admirable in its lofty pitch and +judicious colouring. Its chief feature, however, is the splendid bosses +along the ridge, which are survivals from either the Decorated or a +subsequent Perpendicular vault. In some of these bosses the figures are +five feet long.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>From west to east the subjects are as follows: (1) A head; (2) an +angel, with foliage; (3) a head; (4) a man conducting a woman to a +church door; (5) a bishop in benediction; (6) a king enthroned; (7) +a bishop enthroned; (8) a king and a bishop enthroned together; (9) +the Crucifixion (modern); (10) the Annunciation; (11) the expulsion +from Paradise; (12)? the good Samaritan; (13) a head.</p></div> + +<p>There are also good foliage bosses against the walls between <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>the +pendentives. The westernmost pendentive on either side rests on a +Perpendicular corbel carved with delicate foliage.</p> + +<p>The general arrangements of the presbytery have been much changed since +the middle ages. The altar then stood against a screen one bay in +advance of its present position, and the iron hooks upon the second +complete column from the east end on either side held, it is supposed, +the Lenten Veil. Before the last restoration the altar stood, as now, +against the east wall (on a single step, however), but the Sanctuary +still extended two bays westward and was three steps above the rest of +the choir, which was all on one level. Since then the floor has been +raised one step at the east end of the stalls, and the steps to the +Sanctuary have been diminished by one, while there are now two steps to +the altar, and the Sanctuary and the raised portion of the choir have +received an inlaid marble pavement. The reredos, an arcading of slender +arches each enclosing a trefoiled arch impaling a trefoil, is a +restoration of the original Decorated work. The latter had been covered +by a painted screen of wood—possibly of late mediæval workmanship—and +this again by a huge oil-painting of the time of Charles II. Both were +removed to make way for a high reredos by Blore, which in its turn was +taken down by Sir Gilbert Scott.<a name="FNanchor_96_96" id="FNanchor_96_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a> On the pavement south of the altar +is a piscina, which (if this be its original position) must have +belonged to a chapel or chantry behind the high altar—possibly the +chantry of the Holy Trinity <i>subtus altare</i>.<a name="FNanchor_97_97" id="FNanchor_97_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a> From its position it +would seem that in those days the floor here was considerably lower than +it is now.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 349px;"> +<a name="image36" id="image36"></a><a href="images/image36-full.jpg"><img src="images/image36.jpg" width="349" height="522" alt="Photo of the interior of the cathedral" title="THE SEDILIA" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE SEDILIA.</p> +</div> + + +<p><b>The Sedilia.</b>—The last bay on the south side is now occupied by three +sedilia and a piscina, which form one block. As might be expected from +the mediæval position of the altar, they once stood in the second bay +from the east, and they were not removed to their present position until +the last restoration. Sir Gilbert Scott considered them late Decorated +work, but they have rather the appearance of late Perpendicular. Over +each seat is an ogee canopy, cinquefoil,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"><br />[106]</a></span> crocketed, and surmounted by +a huge finial. These canopies rest on square pillars, the sides of which +are adorned with a sort of ‘four-leaved flowers,’ while the capitals are +encircled with foliage in which are animals and monsters. Each pillar is +surmounted by a pinnacle, and behind each canopy rises a crocketed +gable, again crowned by a huge finial. The gables, the pinnacles, and +the tops of the canopies are the work of Sir Gilbert Scott, who found +the sedilia in a mutilated condition. Below the seats and the piscina +runs a chamfer with ‘four-leaved flowers’ along it, and below this are +panels enclosing trefoils containing faces. But the most curious feature +of these sedilia is not perceived until a glance is given beneath the +canopies. The carved ends of the cusps are in reality the heads of +extraordinary grotesques whose bodies are curled up against the under +surface of the arch. Some of these figures, in addition to their proper +physiognomy, have faces carved on the crowns of their heads. The +piscina, which has been converted into a credence table, has another +ogee canopy, and is backed by a wall, along the top of which runs a band +of foliage that is continued round the top of a square pillar at the end +of the block.</p> + +<p>The fine oak chairs in the Sanctuary are of modern construction but of +old material, while the rails, lectern and pulpit are all modern.<a name="FNanchor_98_98" id="FNanchor_98_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a></p> + +<p>In the four easternmost bays the choir is separated from its aisles +(except where the sedilia already block one arch) by elaborate oak +screens of various designs, in the upper part of which the tracery is +largely pendant—an arrangement characteristic of Yorkshire. These +screens have been restored, but contain much of the old work, most of +which is probably of the same date with the stalls.<a name="FNanchor_99_99" id="FNanchor_99_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a> Until the last +restoration they were surmounted by seventeenth century galleries in the +so-called Jacobean style.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;"> +<a name="image37" id="image37"></a><a href="images/image37-full.jpg"><img src="images/image37.jpg" width="364" height="471" alt="Photo of the interior of the cathedral" title="CHOIR STALLS, FIFTEENTH CENTURY" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">CHOIR STALLS, FIFTEENTH CENTURY.</p> +</div> + + +<p><b>The Stalls</b>—thirteen on either side and eight returned <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>against the Rood +Screen—are exquisite specimens of fifteenth century woodwork. They are +surmounted by lofty canopies of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>elaborate tabernacle-work supported on +slender shafts and rising into a forest of crocketed spirelets and +pinnacles. There are ribbed vaults under the canopies, and upon the +pendants in front are hovering angels. The canopies on the south side +were wrecked by the fall of the spire in 1660, and those over the eight +easternmost stalls were then reconstructed in the ‘Jacobean’ style with +a gallery above, while of the canopies now over the other nine, eight +are said to have been brought across from the eastern end of the north +range, where more Jacobean canopies were erected in their place. Sir +Gilbert Scott removed all this seventeenth century work and set up +reproductions of the fifteenth century design. Thus the eight +easternmost canopies on either side are modern. The misereres and arms +of the stalls are exquisitely carved.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 363px;"> +<a name="image38" id="image38"></a><a href="images/image38-full.jpg"><img src="images/image38.jpg" width="363" height="258" alt="Photo of detail of cathedral" title="MISERERES, FIFTEENTH CENTURY" /></a> +<p class="caption">Jonah emerging from the whale. Pelican feeding her young.</p> + +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo</i>.]</p> + +<p class="caption">MISERERES, FIFTEENTH CENTURY.</p></div> + + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The subjects upon the former are as follows, beginning from the +archway in the screen:—</p> + +<p><i>North side</i>:—(1) (<span class="smcap">Canon in Residence</span>) lion attacked by dogs; (2) +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>dragon attacked by dogs; (3) angel with shield; (4) dragon and +birds; (5) hart’s-tongue ferns; (6) conventional flowers; (7) ape +attacked by lion; (8) vine; (9) birds pecking fruit; (10) +antelopes; (11) fox preaching to goose and cock; (12) fox running +off with geese; (13) fox caught by dogs; (14) dragons fighting; +(15) fruit and flowers issuing from inverted head; (16) man holding +club with oak leaves and acorns; (17) (<span class="smcap">Mayor’s Stall</span>) griffin +catching rabbit.</p> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 216px;"> +<a name="image39" id="image39"></a><a href="images/image39-full.jpg"><img src="images/image39.jpg" width="216" height="332" alt="Photo of detail of the cathedral" title="DESK-END OF MAYOR’S STALL." /></a> + +<p class="captionl"><i>Rev. E. H. Swann, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">DESK-END OF MAYOR’S STALL.</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><i>South side</i>:—(1) (<span class="smcap">Dean</span>) angel with book; (2) angel with shield +bearing date 1489; (3) lion <i>versus</i> griffin; (4) griffin devouring +human leg; (5) owl; (6) mermaid with mirror and hair-brush; (7) two +pigs dancing to bagpipe played by a third; (8) Jonah thrown to the +whale; (9) man wheeling another who holds a reed and a bag; (10) +fox caught carrying off goose by dog and by woman with distaff; +(11) winged animal; (12) hart, gorged and chained; (13) pelican +feeding young; (14) Jonah emerging from the whale; (15) Samson +carrying the gates; (16) head (modern)<a name="FNanchor_100_100" id="FNanchor_100_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a>; (17) (BISHOP’S THRONE) +Caleb and Joshua carrying the grapes and watched by Anakim.</p></div> + +<p>Most of these misereres have exquisite conventional flowers (especially +roses) cut upon them in addition to the figure-subjects. The desks in +front of the stalls have rich finials, and their panelled fronts form +the backs of a lower tier of seats, the arms of which are supported each +on a square shaft set diamondwise. In front of these <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>lower seats the +desks again have carved finials and panelled fronts, and on those +parallel with the Rood Screen the tracery is distinctly Flamboyant. The +finial before the stall of the Canon in Residence has a griffin attached +to it, and that in front of the Dean’s stall a lion. Before both these +stalls the ends of the two tiers of desks are richly carved.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> The +Bishop’s throne and Mayor’s stall have each a canopied niche on the +exterior toward the east,<a name="FNanchor_101_101" id="FNanchor_101_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a> and two small apertures in the east side +to enable the occupant to see the altar, and in front of these two +stalls the ends of the two tiers of desks are again richly carved. The +Mayor’s stall, which is wider than the others, was probably that of the +Wakeman, and attached to the finial in front is a grotesque ape, beneath +which the supporting shaft is of open work. The end of this desk +displays a shield charged with two keys in saltire, for the see of York.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 259px;"> +<a name="image40" id="image40"></a><a href="images/image40-full.jpg"><img src="images/image40.jpg" width="259" height="399" alt="Photo of detail of cathedral" title="FINIAL IN FRONT OF THE BISHOP’S THRONE." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Rev. J. Beanland, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">FINIAL IN FRONT OF THE BISHOP’S THRONE.</p></div> + + +<p>The Bishop’s throne was originally occupied by the Archbishops of York. +The Jacobean canopy, which succeeded that of the fifteenth century, +comprised the space of two stalls, as did also the modern structure by +which it was itself succeeded and which is now in the Consistory Court. +The present canopy resembles those of the other stalls but is higher and +more elaborate. Upon the back of the throne inside is a small mitre. The +finial in front consists of an elephant carrying a man in his trunk, and +bearing on his back a castle filled with armed soldiery, and in front of +the elephant is a centaur (renewed), the shaft under which is again of +open-work. The end of this desk displays a large mitre above a shield +charged with the three stars of St. Wilfrid and supported by two angels, +between whom is a scroll with the date 1494.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 363px;"> +<a name="image41" id="image41"></a><a href="images/image41-full.jpg"><img src="images/image41.jpg" width="363" height="447" alt="Photo of the interior of the cathedral" title="THE WEST END OF THE CHOIR." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo</i>.]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE WEST END OF THE CHOIR.</p></div> + + +<p><b>The Organ</b> occupied the top of the Rood Screen as early as 1408; but +doubtless all traces of the mediæval instrument disappeared at the +Reformation or in the Civil War. During the <a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a>ascendancy of the Puritans +organ-building became a lost art, and at the Restoration it had to be +revived by foreigners, one of whom, Gerard Schmidt, nephew of ‘Father +Schmidt,’ built an organ for Ripon. This instrument was remodelled in +1833 by Booth of Leeds, and about 1878 the organ was rebuilt by T. C. +Lewis of Brixton, so that very little of Schmidt’s work now remains. The +present case was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott. Over the doorway in the +screen is a projecting wooden gallery, in good imitation of the +Perpendicular manner. This <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>gallery, which dates probably from the time +of Schmidt, was occupied until comparatively recently by the organist. +From the front of it projects a well-carved hand, which, worked by a +pedal, could be made to beat time—a very interesting piece of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span>mechanism, which again probably dates from the time of Schmidt.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 209px;"> +<a name="image42" id="image42"></a><a href="images/image42-full.jpg"><img src="images/image42.jpg" width="209" height="287" alt="Photo of the interior of the cathedral" title="THE NORTH CHOIR AISLE." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE NORTH CHOIR AISLE.</p></div> + +<p><b>The North Choir Aisle.</b>—The floor of the choir is now a step above that +of the aisles, and it may be further remarked that in both of them the +first bay is somewhat dark, being walled up on three sides; that in the +second bay the archway toward the choir is occupied by organ-pipes; that +a bench table runs along the side wall and the east end, and that the +latter portion is adorned with panelling of the same design with the +reredos.</p> + +<p>In the north aisle the first three bays and a portion of the fourth are +Archbishop Roger’s work, with the exception of the windows. The most +notable feature, as usual, is the vaulting-shafts, which spring from +above the string-course, and are in clusters of three. In each cluster +the central shaft is even thicker than the others, and the capitals, +which are carved with foliage of Norman character, share a common +five-sided abacus, while the bases are circular and rest on radiating +brackets smaller than themselves. These brackets, which are said to be +unique, have square corners and are moulded, but only on the front, and +their receding portion consists of a concave moulding containing a +convex block. In the north-west corner there is but a single shaft, +which rises from the bench-table, is banded at the string-course, and +has a square-topped capital. The vaulting has wall-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span>ribs, +cross-springers, and groin-ribs, and is rather high-pitched. Upon the +cross-springers the mouldings are a large keeled round having on either +side a hollow between fillets, while the groin-ribs are moulded as in +the Markenfield Chapel. In the westernmost bay the vault has shown signs +of weakness (like so many other parts of the building adjacent to the +ill-fated tower) and has been strengthened by a cross-arch with a +half-arch abutting against it on the west side, both springing from +corbels. The corbels are quite in Archbishop Roger’s manner, and +indicate that these strengthening arches, and therefore the blocking +walls from which they spring, are of his period. Moreover, the abacus +moulding of the first choir capital is continued as a string to the +shaft (which it encircles) in the north-west corner. This string is +interrupted by a rather inexplicable round arch in the west wall, and +has also been broken by the obtrusion of the Perpendicular tower-pier, +and by the blocked doorway which once opened from the Rood Screen. Below +this doorway (adjoining which there is a recess in the obtruding masonry +of the tower-pier) the wall shows traces of a gallery or staircase. On +the north wall the string-course, which is rather undercut, is original +as far as the end of the fourth bay, and marks the level to which the +sills of the original windows descended in steps.<a name="FNanchor_102_102" id="FNanchor_102_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a> In the present +windows, which descend to the old level, the mouldings of the arch are +stopped upon a set-off and the jamb is left plain.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;"> +<a name="image43" id="image43"></a><a href="images/image43-full.jpg"><img src="images/image43.jpg" width="106" height="270" alt="Photo of detail of cathedral" title="TRANSITIONAL VAULTING CORBEL. CHOIR AISLE." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">TRANSITIONAL VAULTING CORBEL. CHOIR AISLE.</p> +</div> + +<p>In the two easternmost bays the Decorated string-course is of a +different pattern and at a slightly higher level; and here <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>the jambs of +the windows are moulded with a hollow continued from the arch; while the +rim of the latter has upon it a large filleted round flanked by hollows +and supported on shafts with polygonal plinths and circular bases and +capitals, the latter enriched with foliage. The east window, however, is +not splayed, and has a deep rear-vault and a flat sill, while its rim is +more elaborately moulded and there are shafts to the inner as well as to +the outer arch. Except in the two easternmost windows on the north side, +the glass is very poor. The Decorated vaulting-shafts are again in +clusters of three, but rise from the bench-table and break the +string-course. They have polygonal plinths, and their capitals are +adorned with rather ill-cut foliage. In the north-east corner there is a +single shaft having a fillet, and adjoining it is a round-headed +doorway, which once opened into the angle staircase. In this aisle the +panelling is carried two bays westwards.</p> + +<p>It should be noticed that toward the aisle the choir arches have one +more order in the three Decorated bays than they have in the rest. In +the Decorated vaulting several chamfers are introduced among the +mouldings of the cross-springers, and both in these and in the +groin-ribs the most prominent moulding has a fillet. Otherwise the roof +roughly matches that of the older bays. The older and the later period +meet in the fourth bay from the west, where two of the groin-ribs have +the fillet, while the other two are without it. In the two easternmost +bays there are fine bosses at the crown of the vault.</p> + +<p>It is thought that the Shrine of St. Wilfrid was in the east end of this +aisle.<a name="FNanchor_103_103" id="FNanchor_103_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a> Unfortunately Leland’s words <i>S. Wilfridi reliquiae sub arcu +prope magnum altare sepultae</i> are too vague to decide its exact +position.</p> + +<p><b>The South Choir Aisle.</b>—This aisle, in some respects, has been altered +more than the other, but the south wall is Archbishop Roger’s work as +far as the end of the fourth bay, if not farther. About 14 feet from the +west end occurs that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> ‘straight joint’ in the masonry which shows the +separation of this aisle from the Mallory Chapel to have been an +afterthought; and a little further east a round-headed doorway, moulded +with the edge-roll and retaining a panelled door of some age, opens into +the Chapter-house. There was evidently a second and similar doorway a +few yards further on, but it has been blocked (doubtless when the +cross-wall was built at the back of it between the Chapter-house and +vestry), and a square-headed doorway has been made to open into the +latter. To the right of this entrance is a square-headed lavatory with a +projecting rectangular basin and a hole knocked through into the lobby +behind. This lavatory is of course an insertion, probably of the +fifteenth century; indeed the whole of this part of the wall has been +much repaired with limestone. The aisle is somewhat darkened by the fact +that its first four windows look into the Lady-loft. Fortunately the +three westernmost are original. They are as usual round-headed and +plainly splayed, and their sills descend to the string-course in steps. +Archbishop Roger’s vaulting-shafts here are in better preservation than +in the other aisle. The original vaulting itself must of course have +been taken down when the three westernmost columns of the choir-arcade +were rebuilt, but in the reconstruction the old ribs seem to have been +used again. The groin-ribs have no room to descend upon the +Perpendicular choir-capitals, and end prematurely upon corbels carved +into faces.</p> + +<p>The westernmost bay of the aisle has been divided into two storeys, the +upper of which now contains part of the mechanism of the organ, but is +thought to have been once a chantry chapel. This curious chamber is +reached through a pointed doorway at the top of the Library staircase in +the south transept. Its roof is of course formed by the aisle-vault, +which originally extended, doubtless, as far westwards in this aisle as +in the other. The space, however, has been shortened by the great +thickness of a Perpendicular cross-arch, which, though its southern +respond obtrudes into the aisle below, is itself only visible from this +chamber. When, therefore, the vaulting here was rebuilt, it had to be +adapted to the shortened space, and the groin-ribs, which are very much +of Archbishop Roger’s pattern, spring from Perpendicular corbels carved +into faces. The wall which separates this bay of the aisle from the +choir was said above, quite <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span>truly, to be Perpendicular, but on this its +southern face the masonry is apparently Archbishop Roger’s. It is of +gritstone, and behind the organ-bellows there remains a corbel like +those of the cross-arch that props the vaulting in the corresponding bay +of the north aisle. The presumption therefore is that the original +vaulting was similarly propped here, and that the wall on which this +corbel remains was built to block or strengthen the first choir-arch, +and has survived the arch itself. To the west of the door a small square +window looks into the Mallory Chapel.</p> + +<p>In its eastern portion this aisle resembles the other, but the +bench-table here is only carried two bays westward, and the panelling +only one bay. In the fifth bay from the west the window is shortened to +about half the length of the others, and the string-course (which is of +Archbishop Roger’s pattern) is correspondingly raised, possibly because +a longer window would have come below the springing of the vestry roof +(in the period when there was no Lady-loft), or possibly (though this is +less likely) to make room for the monument underneath, which, though +placed here by Sir Gilbert Scott, who found it in pieces, may have +occupied this position before. The monument is that of Moses Fowler, +first Dean of Ripon (d. 1608), and the effigy is not a favourable +example of English sculpture in the seventeenth century. Of the stained +glass, that in the last window on the south side is of some merit. The +capitals of the Decorated vaulting-shafts are better executed in this +aisle than in the other. Here, as there, the Decorated vaulting begins +in the middle of the fourth bay, where the fillet is again found upon +the two eastern groins only. At the south-east corner of this aisle are +the remains of a piscina—a fragment of a basin resting on a +shaft—which probably belonged to one of the many chantries. The +staircase at this corner affords the best access to the turret cell +described in the last chapter, and to the attic over the choir, where +the framing of the roof is a very remarkable specimen of modern joinery.</p> + +<p>On account of the alterations that have taken place at different periods +in the part of the Cathedral south of the choir, it will be well to +examine the crypt under the Chapter-house before examining either the +latter itself or the Library.</p> + +<p><b>The Norman Crypt.</b>—A round-headed doorway in the west wall of the +Chapter-house admits to a staircase which, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>roofed with a sloping +barrel-vault and descending southwards, turns eastwards, under another +round arch, into the crypt. The age of this staircase is uncertain, but +its west wall is of course the east wall of Archbishop Roger’s transept, +and its barrel-vault is under his buttresses which will be seen in the +Library. The crypt is divided by a cross-wall with a round arch in it +into two portions, each having the vaulting supported on pillars along +the middle; but half of the first and third bays of the western portion +has been walled up in modern times for burial-vaults. The width of the +crypt is about 18 feet and the total length about 68 feet.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 361px;"> +<a name="image44" id="image44"></a><a href="images/image44-full.jpg"><img src="images/image44.jpg" width="361" height="262" alt="Photo of the crypt" title="THE NORMAN CRYPT." /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE NORMAN CRYPT.</p></div> + +<p>This part of the church was assigned by Walbran to Thomas of Bayeux +(1070-1100), and by Sir Gilbert Scott to Thurstan (1114-1141); but it is +quite possible that both these Archbishops, if not Oda or Oswald before +them, may have had a share in its construction. Much of the work at <a name="corr5" id="corr5"></a>any +rate belongs to a Norman church which preceded that of Archbishop Roger.</p> + +<p>In the vaulting (which by-the-way has had to be propped <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>at some period +by two rude pointed limestone arches at the west end) the chamfered +groin-ribs seem to have been added later for strength, probably when the +storey above was remodelled; but the vaulting itself, with its square +pillars, its plain round arches from pillar to pillar and from pillar to +walls, and without ribs upon the groins (such having been its original +condition, apparently), seems pure Norman work.<a name="FNanchor_104_104" id="FNanchor_104_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a> The traces of +painted decoration remaining upon both pillars and vaulting are probably +original. Along the walls the arches spring, not from corbels, but from +short strings of the same pattern with the impost-moulding on the +pillars—a pattern not of very early character. The north and south +walls must, perhaps, be as old at least as the vaulting which rests +against them; nor does the former wall seem quite on the same plane with +the portion of Archbishop Roger’s choir foundations visible outside +(between the present choir and the apse), he having perhaps built his +wall against this one. The large limestone buttress against this wall, +and another buttress which rises from the east wall but is hidden by the +vaulting, were added in the Decorated period, and can be followed up +through the two storeys above. They terminate in the pinnacles of the +flying buttresses that span the choir-aisle. The south wall may perhaps +be definitely placed somewhat early in the Norman period, since the +windows are splayed both internally and externally.<a name="FNanchor_105_105" id="FNanchor_105_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a> Of equal age, +probably, is the cross-wall (which, to judge from the mass of masonry +that spans the present passage of communication between the two parts of +the crypt, is very thick) since allowance is made for its thickness in +the spacing of the windows.<a name="FNanchor_106_106" id="FNanchor_106_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> It is at least as old as the vaulting, +whose bays are arranged to suit it; and moreover the half-pillar against +its eastern side has never been a whole pillar, as the capital plainly +shows. This last remark applies also to the half-pillar against the +extreme west wall, which therefore may perhaps be taken as marking the +westward limit of the crypt at the time when the vaulting was +constructed; while the east wall (excluding <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span>the apse) probably marks +the contemporary eastward limit—if, that is to say, the eastern portion +of the vaulting has not undergone alteration. That eastern portion is +clearly planned for an apse or chancel of some kind. The arch that rises +eastward from the last pillar is stopped half-way in its course by a +cross-arch opening into the apse, and the two last groin-ribs are +carried from the pillar to the abutments of the cross-arch, being +obliged by this contraction of span to form the only pointed arches in +the whole vaulting. Such an arrangement—a ‘nave’ terminating in an +apse, and at the same time divided by a row of pillars along the +middle—is somewhat unusual. The present apse is of uncertain date. Part +of it may be Norman. Its window indeed is of early Norman type: yet its +wall seems of softer stone than the rest of the crypt,<a name="FNanchor_107_107" id="FNanchor_107_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> and the +string which runs along the east wall of the latter and round the +responds of the cross-arch is there broken off: moreover, the cross-arch +itself is clearly not of the same date or construction with the two ribs +of the apse-roof, which ribs may possibly be of the same date as the +groin-ribs; and lastly, it will be remembered that the shafts on the +exterior had something of the appearance of Archbishop Roger’s work. The +floor of the apse is raised on two steps, but there is no trace of an +altar.</p> + +<p>It will be noticed that at the south-east corner there is no apsidal +chamber to correspond to that in the storey above. There is, however, an +unsavoury hole from which have been extracted a number of skulls. +Indeed, this crypt formerly contained huge piles of bones, which had +probably been brought here by the sixteenth century builders from the +foundations of their new nave-aisles,<a name="FNanchor_108_108" id="FNanchor_108_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a> and which were removed in +1865 to a pit in the graveyard. Among the stone relics which have found +a resting-place here, the most interesting are a sarcophagus, the head +of a cross of Saxon character, and a group of coffin-lids near the north +wall. Most of these last are perhaps of the thirteenth century.<a name="FNanchor_109_109" id="FNanchor_109_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a> At +the west end of the crypt is preserved Blore’s reredos.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span><b>The Chapter-house</b> is 22 feet wide from wall to wall and 35 feet long, +but it was evidently once open to the vestry, and the dividing wall, +which with its bench-table is of limestone, was erected in the Decorated +or in the Perpendicular period. In both rooms, as also in the storey +above, the original floor was perhaps of stone or tiles, but if so, it +has been covered or superseded by wooden planking.</p> + +<p>The Chapter-house is marked as such by the stone benches which are +carried in two tiers along the north and south walls. On the north side +the upper tier is interrupted by the piers of an arcading of plainly +chamfered round arches, the central bay of which contains a fine +mediæval cupboard with iron scroll-work. The doorway into the choir is +very curiously treated on this side. It is surmounted first by a lintel, +the stones above which are wedges forming a ‘flat arch,’ and then by a +round arch so high as to run up behind the westernmost arch of the +arcading. The very fine vaulting, although some have ascribed it to the +Early English period, belongs more probably to the time of Archbishop +Roger. Unlike that over the choir-aisles and the Markenfield chapel, +however, it has all its arches rounded, and is without wall-ribs. It +springs from five-sided corbels which, like the corbels of the old nave, +are finished off with scrolls, and which on the north side are placed +against the piers of the arcading; and in the middle of the room it is +supported on two cylindrical and monolithic pillars. The bases and +capitals of these are circular, and the former are almost pure Early +English, the plinth having a round moulding at the bottom, and the base +proper consisting of two round mouldings separated by a hollow, with one +or two beads or fillets. The capitals are less advanced in style, as the +part just above the bell is not moulded and the abacus retains the +square edge. All the eight ribs that rise from each pillar resemble the +groin-ribs in the crypt.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 546px;"> +<a name="image45" id="image45"></a><a href="images/image45-full.jpg"><img src="images/image45.jpg" width="546" height="390" alt="Interior of the chapter-house" title="THE CHAPTER-HOUSE" /></a> +<p class="caption">THE CHAPTER-HOUSE.</p> +</div> + +<p>The arcade against the north wall is continued in the vestry, and it has +been thought that it is Norman, and that its arches were once open.<a name="FNanchor_110_110" id="FNanchor_110_110"></a><a href="#Footnote_110_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a> +But had this ever been the case the piers <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span>would surely have been +narrower, and would have had capitals. Indeed, it is doubtful whether +the arcade is Norman at all: for if it were, its bays might be expected +to agree in span and number with the (presumably Norman) bays of the +crypt, whereas there are five bays there and only four here occupying +the same total length. Secondly, the set-off on which its piers stand is +probably Archbishop Roger’s work, as will appear later; and the piers +themselves seem to be of the same construction with the wall behind +them, which again is almost certainly his. Moreover, it is significant +that the arches agree in span with those of his choir, and that their +piers are back to back with his vaulting-shafts in the choir-aisle. +Lastly, these piers correspond in width with his buttresses on the north +side of the choir. In fact it is difficult to resist the conclusion that +they are Archbishop Roger’s south choir buttresses in disguise,<a name="FNanchor_111_111" id="FNanchor_111_111"></a><a href="#Footnote_111_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a> and +that the arches between them were thrown across merely to form a +straight boundary for the vaulting, and to carry a ledge which (when +there was no storey above) might support the external roof. The piers +indeed are carried up, with a ‘straight joint’ on either side, above the +springing of the arches, and the latter are constructed as if they had +been let into the piers as an after-thought.<a name="FNanchor_112_112" id="FNanchor_112_112"></a><a href="#Footnote_112_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a></p> + +<p>As the bays of this arcade, to which the vaulting is adapted, do not +agree with those of the crypt, it follows that the two cylindrical +pillars here do not stand exactly over the pillars below—which +strengthens the presumption that the vaulting there is of earlier date, +and that its groin-ribs were added later for strength: nor does the +dividing wall here stand exactly over the cross-wall below, so that the +strain on the crypt roof must be considerable.</p> + +<p>The two round windows are very widely splayed, and the uppermost part of +their rim has a different curvature from the rest, as if they had once +been straight-sided and round-headed. In their present form they are of +uncertain date. The most conspicuous instance of the employment of this +rare type of window—viz., the nave of Southwell Cathedral—is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>pure +Norman, but the received opinion ascribes these Ripon examples to the +time of Archbishop Roger, and it will be observed that their position +harmonizes with the bays of the vaulting, which is presumably his, but +has no relation externally to the spacing of the windows of the crypt, +which, moreover, have an external splay. The third window was once +circular like the rest, for a portion of the rim may still be traced; +but as it would otherwise have been bisected by the cross-wall, the +later builders have blocked half of it and squared the rest, splaying it +at the same time like a squint. The date of the south wall itself is +doubtful. It is thinner here than in either the vestry or the crypt.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;"> +<a name="image46" id="image46"></a><a href="images/image46-full.jpg"><img src="images/image46.jpg" width="362" height="229" alt="Photo of sculpture" title="ANCIENT SCULPTURES PRESERVED IN THE CHAPTER-HOUSE" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Watson, Ripon, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">The Resurrection. St. Wilfrid. The Coronation of the Virgin.</p> + +<p class="caption">ANCIENT SCULPTURES PRESERVED IN THE CHAPTER-HOUSE.</p></div> + + +<p>Near the modern hearth is a case of curiosities found about the church, +among them several fourteenth or fifteenth century reliefs in alabaster, +representing the Resurrection, the Coronation of the Virgin, the story +of Herodias, and the figure of a bishop, probably St. Wilfrid, with a +curious P-shaped implement on his arm.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span>At the north end of the cross-wall it will be observed that the blocked +doorway noticed in the choir-aisle was not round-headed on this side, +but segmental. The square-headed doorway in the cross-wall itself is +modern, and opens into a lobby, the opposite side of which is formed by +the Decorated buttress whose lower portion was noticed in the crypt, +while on the left is the doorway into the choir, and on the right +another square-headed doorway, opening into the vestry.</p> + +<p><b>The Vestry.</b>—Before the erection of the cross-wall the vaulting +evidently extended eastward continuously to the apse, which still +contains a fragment of it with two corbels, while further traces, +including another corbel, may be seen upon the south wall. Its removal +may have taken place either when the two Decorated buttresses were +introduced, or at the erection of the Lady-loft, or possibly much later; +but was doubtless contemporaneous with the building of the cross-wall, +which was evidently intended not only as a partition, but as a ‘stop’ +for the portion of the vaulting that was retained. The present ceiling +was put up by Sir Gilbert Scott, who, it is said, would have restored +the vaulting had funds allowed. Of the buttresses, that adjoining the +doorway has in its front, as well as in the side toward the lobby, a +small trefoiled and moulded recess. These two buttresses are built +against the piers of the arcading, part of the last arch of which is +visible behind the cupboard.</p> + +<p>In the same cupboard may be observed, scarcely above the floor, a wide +stone ledge with a bold moulding worked along the front. If the floor +can ever have been lower than it is now, this ledge may have been used +as a bench. In itself, it is of course the set-off on which the piers of +the arcading stand. Now it will be remembered that the portion of +Archbishop Roger’s wall-base visible from the graveyard (between the +choir and the apse) has at the top a wide set-off or slope. This ledge +in the vestry, then, seems to be level with the base of that slope, +where moreover there is a moulding similar to that found here; also the +front of the ledge here seems to be flush with Archbishop Roger’s +masonry there.</p> + +<p>If, then, the work there is his,<a name="FNanchor_113_113" id="FNanchor_113_113"></a><a href="#Footnote_113_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a> the above considerations afford +some reason surely for the belief that this set-off on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>which the piers +of the arcading stand, and perhaps also the uppermost courses of the +wall beneath it, are Archbishop Roger’s work. Nor is it improbable that +this set-off once had a slope, of which that above-mentioned was the +continuation, and out of which the buttresses (<i>i.e.</i>, the arcade piers) +rose after the manner of those on the other side of the choir—in fact, +that Archbishop Roger intended to make this wall the exterior of his +church by demolishing the crypt, vestry, and Chapter-house; and that it +was only after some such idea had been conceived and abandoned, that the +arches were thrown across from buttress to buttress, the vaulting +constructed against them, this ledge formed (by cutting away the slope +of the set-off), and the stone benches carried along the wall of the +Chapter-house.</p> + +<p>The arch above the ledge has been mutilated to make way for a modern +spiral staircase of wood leading to the Library. Half-way up this +staircase there remain upon the wall and upon the buttress (if it may +now be so called) portions of a string-course which may be taken perhaps +as additional evidence for the theory that Archbishop Roger at first +intended to demolish the vestry and Chapter-house.<a name="FNanchor_114_114" id="FNanchor_114_114"></a><a href="#Footnote_114_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a> It does not, +however, match the external string on the other side of the choir, but +resembles the internal string in the choir-aisles.</p> + +<p>The single window in the south wall is round-headed internally, and is +partially splayed on one side and not at all on the other: indeed the +wall here appears to have undergone some alteration. In this room this +wall is of the same thickness with the corresponding wall of the crypt, +which is not the case in the Chapter-house.</p> + +<p>East of the above window a square-headed doorway opens into the apsidal +chamber enclosed by the corner buttress. This curious little chamber was +probably a sacristy or treasury. It has a recess in the west side, and +seems to have communicated directly with the graveyard. In the roof is a +slab which has a small cross graven upon it, and which may have formed +part of an altar.</p> + +<p>The projection at the south side of the apse was probably one of the +responds of an arch against which the vaulting abutted, as in the crypt. +Under the east window the curve of the wall has been flattened, probably +to afford a better back for the altar, of which the step remains. On the +north side is an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span>aumbry, with a recess adjoining it in the side of the +buttress; and on the south side is a smaller aumbry, and a piscina with +a projecting basin and a semicircular head, the latter cut apparently in +one stone. This again is probably one of the earliest piscinæ in +existence. The curve of the apse is wider in this storey than below, +which partly accounts for the fact that the adjoining Decorated buttress +protrudes here into the room. There is also a difference in the stone +used, and in several other particulars, <i>e.g.</i>, the two windows here +have very little external splay—all of which may or may not indicate a +difference in date between the apse in this storey and in the crypt. The +hand of Archbishop Roger seems traceable here not only in the external +shafts and corbel-table, but also in the trefoiling (externally) of the +east window. The two vaulting-corbels at any rate seem to be his, as +well as the piscina. The upper part of the apse has lost its +semicircular shape and been squared, and some masonry has been thrown +across from its wall to the Decorated buttress, the motive having been +perhaps to make a better support for the rectangular east end of the +Lady-loft. The oak table in this room was probably the Communion-table +of the church during the period following the Reformation.</p> + +<p>The question now arises how long the vestry and Chapter-house have +served their present purpose. Of the arrangements in this storey before +the time of Archbishop Roger nothing can be recovered with certainty, +but the (presumably Norman) wall between the two parts of the crypt +suggests by its thickness that it was intended to support a division of +some kind above. After being remodelled in the time of Archbishop Roger, +however, this upper storey was evidently open from end to end, and its +apsidal termination, containing both piscina and altar-step, indicates +that it was a chapel: indeed, as has been well suggested, it was +probably the original Lady Chapel. Nevertheless, in an age when every +action of life was invested with a religious character, the western part +may have been used for capitular purposes even without a dividing wall, +and the gritstone benches, so significant of those purposes, are +doubtless of considerable age. The statement in the old Records that the +trial of 1228<a name="FNanchor_115_115" id="FNanchor_115_115"></a><a href="#Footnote_115_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> was held <i>apud Rypon in Aulâ Capituli</i> is definite +enough to show that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>there was a recognised place for Chapter meetings; +nor is it improbable that the reference may be to the present building. +Some doubt is thrown upon this conclusion by a proclamation of +Archbishop Lee in 1537 sequestrating the Common Fund on the ground that +“the Chapter-house is ruinous in walls, roof, and stonework generally, +so that it is likely to fall.” These words, it has been thought, can +never have been applicable to the present Chapter-house, and it has been +suggested therefore that there may have been another which has +disappeared. Archbishop Lee’s words, however, are perhaps not +irreconcilable with the present building. They may refer to the serious +settlement which necessitated the huge Perpendicular buttress at the +corner of what is now the vestry. There is, it is true, some difficulty +in the fact that it is not the vestry but the Chapter-house which is +mentioned, and in the allusion to a dilapidated roof (<i>tectura</i>); but it +is conceivable that there was as yet no dividing wall, that the vaulting +of what is now the vestry was still standing, that it had been injured +by the settlement above-mentioned—in fact that its removal and the +erection of the dividing wall took place in the time of Archbishop Lee. +His direction for repairs may also account for the presence of limestone +in the north wall of the Chapter-house, and for the propping of the +vault at the west end of the crypt.<a name="FNanchor_116_116" id="FNanchor_116_116"></a><a href="#Footnote_116_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a> As has already been shown, the +history of the vestry is bound up with that of the Chapter-house. At +what period services ceased to be held at the altar in the apse, it is +difficult to say; perhaps on the completion of a Lady Chapel above, +perhaps on the erection of the dividing wall,<a name="FNanchor_117_117" id="FNanchor_117_117"></a><a href="#Footnote_117_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a> perhaps through the +advent of the Reformation. At any rate, it was probably not before this +part of the church had ceased to be used for services that it began to +be recognised as a robing-room. There is an allusion to a recognised +vestry in Leland, and very possibly the present room is meant; if so, it +would seem from his account to have been used also as a library. But the +fact remains that the church possesses no vestry except what is +obviously a disused chapel.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span><b>The Lady-chapel</b> or Lady-loft is 23 feet 3 inches wide, and 68 feet +long.<a name="FNanchor_118_118" id="FNanchor_118_118"></a><a href="#Footnote_118_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a> Its west and north sides, being formed by what was once the +exterior of the church, display not only windows and buttresses, but +also a string-course with gargoyles. From the west wall projects one of +Archbishop Roger’s buttresses, terminating in a slope, between the two +blocked windows of the Mallory Chapel, which resemble the aisle windows +of the other transept. The window on the right, mutilated by the +insertion of the doorway, has lost its shafts, and retains only their +capitals. The other window is partly cut off by the south wall, and is +now a cupboard.</p> + +<p>In the north wall, the first three bays are Archbishop Roger’s, and the +windows resemble in their treatment the two just described, and are +separated from each other by two buttresses which terminate, like those +on the opposite side of the choir, in two slopes one close below the +other. There is a third buttress, terminating in a single slope, at the +angle formed with the transept. The Decorated window in the fourth bay +is treated in the same manner as the rest of those in the eastern +portion of the choir-aisles, and the Decorated buttresses which flank it +are those which have been followed up from the crypt. The rich +string-course or cornice along the top of this and the west wall +corresponds with that on the other side of the church. The gargoyles are +of course Decorated, and so is the string-course itself, eastwards at +any rate of the second gargoyle on the north wall, for here one of the +mouldings has a fillet upon it. Whether the rest of the string is +Archbishop Roger’s work or not, it is difficult to decide.</p> + +<p>The large windows in the south and east walls are surmounted by square +labels ending in heads. Above the modern fireplace is the defaced +monument of Anthony Higgin, second Dean (d. 1624), the founder of the +present library; and further east, under the small lancet window (which +is filled with fragments of stained glass), is an arched recess of +considerable size, and a trefoiled piscina, each surmounted by a gable +moulding with a finial. The piscina probably belonged to the chantry of +Our-Lady-in-the-Lady-loft. A large stone bracket, supported by a +grotesque figure, projects from the east wall, and the east window is +bright with armorial bearings of benefactors of the church. This glass, +which is mostly of the eighteenth century, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>was once in the great window +of the choir. The north side of the recess in which the east window is +set, is partially splayed outwards to join the last Decorated buttress, +which with its neighbour have been cut back in this storey to the plane +of the pinnacles above—doubtless when this Lady-loft was added.</p> + +<p>The present pinewood ceiling was put up by Sir Gilbert Scott, but most +of the carved angle-pieces in the panels came from an older roof of oak.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;"> +<a name="image47" id="image47"></a><a href="images/image47-full.jpg"><img src="images/image47.jpg" width="362" height="266" alt="Photo of the library" title="THE LIBRARY" /></a> +<p class="captionl"><i>Ronald P. Jones, Photo.</i>]</p> + +<p class="caption">THE LIBRARY.</p></div> + + +<p>The history of the library begins with the MS. of the Gospels given by +St. Wilfrid; and the ascription to him of various other gifts, which +occurs in the writings of Peter of Blois (a Canon of Ripon in the +twelfth century), implies at any rate that there was a library when +Peter wrote. In 1466 money was bequeathed by William Rodes, a chaplain, +<i>ad fabricam cujusdam librarii in ecclesiâ construendi</i>, words which may +refer to the screening off for books of a portion of this chapel; but +in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> Leland’s time books were apparently kept in the vestry, though it is +not certain that the present vestry is meant.<a name="FNanchor_119_119" id="FNanchor_119_119"></a><a href="#Footnote_119_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a> Except a few MSS. of +Chapter Acts, Fabric Rolls, etc., none of the books now here are known +for certain to have belonged to the church before the Reformation;<a name="FNanchor_120_120" id="FNanchor_120_120"></a><a href="#Footnote_120_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a> +indeed the present collection began with the bequest of his books by +Dean Higgin in 1624. The books were in this chapel in 1817, but in 1859 +they were at the Deanery. There are now over 5000 volumes, including +seven MSS., of which one of the most notable is the Ripon Psalter +(1418), containing the special offices for St. Wilfrid, and many printed +books of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, among them two fine +Caxtons. Many of the books have beautiful old bindings in stamped +leather. The most interesting items in the collection are exposed in a +glass case at the east end of the room.<a name="FNanchor_121_121" id="FNanchor_121_121"></a><a href="#Footnote_121_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a> Near the opposite end is +another case containing the bones recently dug up under the site of the +mediæval altar in the Saxon crypt.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 544px;"> +<a name="image48" id="image48"></a><a href="images/image48-full.png"><img src="images/image48.png" width="544" height="399" alt="Drawing of the chapel" title="THE OLD CHAPEL OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE’S HOSPITAL." /></a> +<p class="caption">THE OLD CHAPEL OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE’S HOSPITAL.</p> + +<p class="caption">(From a pen-drawing by the author.)</p> +</div> + + +<div class="footnotes"> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> This is what was meant by saying in <a href="#CHAPTER_II">Chapter II.</a> that in +each tower one side is older than the others.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> In the interior of these towers the courses run level with +those of Archbishop Roger’s work—a fact which has been taken as +indicating that the lowest portion of the towers internally (but not, of +course, the tower arches) may be actually his work. The theory that his +west front was flanked by towers or chambers of some kind is not +improbable.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> A triforium is properly a gallery, open to the church, +between the internal and external roofs of the aisles, but here there +were no aisles, and the gallery or passage is in the thickness of the +wall.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> This term will be used wherever the usual term +‘vaulting-shaft’ is inapplicable.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> The earth here has apparently been brought in from +outside. Can it have come from some sacred spot abroad? The original +floor, if not earthen, may possibly have rested on the set-off.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> It has been suggested, however, that they may be relics of +a feast buried here to defile the site of the altar. The bones in +question are now in the Lady-loft.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> With one of the deposits was found a brass bodkin of the +type used in the sixteenth century.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> It was Walbran, again, who gave these reasons for +assigning the crypt to Wilfrid. Before his time it was thought to have +been built during the Roman Occupation.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> See article by Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite, V.P.S.A., in +<i>Archæol. Journ.</i>, vol. xxxvii. p. 364.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> A <i>confessio</i>, it need hardly be said, has nothing to do +with a confessional. The word is probably to be explained as meaning the +tomb of one who had been a witness or <i>confessor</i> of the Faith.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> In making excavations for laying the wind-trunk of the +organ the exterior of this wall was laid bare and appeared extremely +rough. This, however, does not prove that it had never been meant to be +seen. It may have been faced with smooth stones, which, just because +they were exposed, attracted attention, and were removed by later masons +for use elsewhere.—<i>Mr. Micklethwaite.</i></p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> Among the five known Saxon crypts (all of the <i>confessio</i> +type) Ripon and Hexham alone show this peculiarity.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> See <i>Proceedings Soc. Antiq.</i>, 16th June 1892.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> In making the above-mentioned excavation in 1891, Mr. +Micklethwaite found what was presumably the floor of the body of +Wilfrid’s church. It was of plaster 3 inches thick, and was 1 foot 7 +inches below the floor of the present Cathedral.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> The explanation of the crypt as a <i>confessio</i> is due to +Mr. Micklethwaite, and is ably set forth, with its consequences, in +<i>Archæol. Journ.</i>, vol. xxxix. p. 347.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> The square termination of the crypt is in favour of a +square presbytery; while his Roman proclivities are perhaps slightly in +favour of an apse, and of aisles.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> <i>Surtees Soc.</i>, vol. lxxiv. p. 83.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> It is certainly true that numerous white <i>tesseræ</i> of +Italian character, such as Wilfrid might have used, have been dug up on +this site (<i>Murray’s Cathedrals</i>, Pt. 1, p. 172, n. 1). They may, +however, mark the site of the domestic buildings and not of the church. +Or they may be relics of the Roman Occupation.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> By Walbran in <i>Proceedings Archæol. Inst.</i>, York Vol. 1846 +(pub. 1848).</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> There is an interesting suggestion in <i>Murray’s +Cathedrals</i>, Pt. 1, p. 172, n. 2, that the church of which the crypt +formed a part was built not by Wilfrid but by Eadhead, who, as the +supplanter of Wilfrid, would probably be excluded from Wilfrid’s +monastery, but who may, nevertheless, have employed his workmen. The +western position of the altar, however, is against placing the work as +late as the episcopate of Eadhead.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> The suggestion is Mr. Micklethwaite’s. <i>Altare</i> would, of +course, mean the high altar in the presbytery above.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_76_76" id="Footnote_76_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> A third font (modern) formerly stood in the north-west +tower.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> It is curious that the same story should be told of Roger +de Mowbray, founder of Byland Abbey in this same county. (<i>Murray’s +Cathedrals.</i>)</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> Another suggestion is that the subject has some connection +with the history of the Disobedient Prophet.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_79_79" id="Footnote_79_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> <i>Surtees Soc.</i>, vol. lxiv. p. 92.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_80_80" id="Footnote_80_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> But for the label, these arms resemble those of John of +Eltham (brother of Edward III.), who died without issue in 1334.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_81_81" id="Footnote_81_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> It is pleasant to find in the church several indications +of aid received from the other great ecclesiastical foundation in the +neighbourhood.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_82_82" id="Footnote_82_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> Taken by itself, the coarseness of the work in the tower +and transept would suggest that these parts were later, and not earlier, +than the nave. But (not to mention documentary evidence), if they were +later, then the Rood Screen must be later also, which can hardly be the +case, the stalls against it being dated 1489.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_83_83" id="Footnote_83_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> Probably (as Walbran suggested) with money subscribed for +the tower, the completion of which was perhaps the less pressing +necessity.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_84_84" id="Footnote_84_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> In the large mediæval churches there was usually an altar +at the east end of the nave.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_85_85" id="Footnote_85_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> It may have been put here at the time of the building of +the present nave, than which it is perhaps slightly earlier.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_86_86" id="Footnote_86_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> The Markenfields were one of the principal families in the +neighbourhood from the fourteenth century onwards, until in the reign of +Elizabeth they ruined themselves by taking part in the Rising in the +North. Their ancient moated Manor-house, in which both the knights +sculptured on these altar tombs must have lived, is still standing, +about three miles from Ripon, towards Harrogate.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_87_87" id="Footnote_87_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> This aisle was also the site of the chantry of St. +Andrew.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_88_88" id="Footnote_88_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> In these pages this term is used to describe round +mouldings which are brought to an edge without actually having a fillet +upon them.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_89_89" id="Footnote_89_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> By Mr. Francis Bond.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_90_90" id="Footnote_90_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> In spite of Sir G. Scott’s conjectural plan. (See <a href="#Page_67">p. 67</a>.)</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_91_91" id="Footnote_91_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> It is possible that the screen there mentioned may be the +present structure, or may have been incorporated into it. In 1408 the +accident to the tower had not yet occurred, and the piers that now flank +the screen had therefore not yet been built. There is a not very +credible story that the present screen came from Fountains Abbey.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_92_92" id="Footnote_92_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> This peculiarity is found at some other places—<i>e.g.</i>, +St. Cross, Winchester.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_93_93" id="Footnote_93_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> This column and that opposite to it on the north side have +been regarded as entirely Decorated imitations of Archbishop Roger’s +columns, but surely without sufficient reason.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_94_94" id="Footnote_94_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a> See also the account of the East End in Chapter II., pp. +<a href="#Page_60">60-63</a>.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_95_95" id="Footnote_95_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a> Two holes have been drilled through the rear-vault from +the attic above, but for what purpose it is hard to say.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_96_96" id="Footnote_96_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a> It appears from the Fabric Rolls that a new high altar was +begun in 1522. The work seems to have lasted four years, and apparently +included a carved wooden reredos.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_97_97" id="Footnote_97_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a> <i>Subtus altare</i> suggests a crypt, but there seems to have +been no crypt under the choir. Perhaps the <i>altare</i> meant may have stood +over the Saxon or the Norman crypt.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_98_98" id="Footnote_98_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a> Mention may be here made of the Communion plate, some of +which is as old as 1676 and has upon it representations of the church, +very incorrect but showing the spires; also of the mace which is now +borne before the Dean, and which has been assigned to the fifteenth +century and may possibly have been once borne before the Wakeman. Upon +the top has been engraved an <i>Agnus Dei</i>, the cognizance of the church.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_99_99" id="Footnote_99_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a> A piece of woodwork, however, which was in the north aisle +at the time of the last restoration, is said to have borne the date +1397.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_100_100" id="Footnote_100_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> The old miserere was probably removed when the Throne was +made to comprise two stalls. (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_111">p. 111</a>.)</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_101_101" id="Footnote_101_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> It has been supposed that these niches were for figures +of St. Peter and St. Wilfrid, and that the same was the case with the +two niches which form the ends of the lower tier in the Rood Screen, and +also with those which flank the west doors. It may also have been the +case with the two eastward projections (if there were two) from the +western piers of the Central Tower.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_102_102" id="Footnote_102_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a> Below the string-course there is a certain amount of +limestone in the wall, but this hardly accounts for the language of a +Chapter minute which records a meeting in 1546 to consider the repair of +certain <i>defectus et ruinositates apertae tam campanilis quam muri +lapidei insulae borealis</i>.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_103_103" id="Footnote_103_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> Above the shrine there hung, apparently, a gilded +crescent like that above the site of St. Thomas’s shrine at Canterbury. +The bones were enclosed in a splendid coffer with poles attached, and on +solemn occasions this ‘feretory,’ besides being carried in procession, +was sometimes placed under a tent in the fields. It was also very +elaborately renewed in 1520 <a name="corr4" id="corr4"></a>(<i>Surtees Soc.</i>, vol. lxxxi. p. 204, n., +etc.). Portions of the shrine exist, perhaps, in the alabaster +bas-reliefs in the Chapter-house, as well as in the base of the railing +in the north aisle of the nave.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_104_104" id="Footnote_104_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> It may, however, be later than the main walls.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_105_105" id="Footnote_105_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> The lower portion of this wall seems to be of an even +earlier type of masonry than the upper. A somewhat similar difference +between the upper and lower portions may be observed in the east and +north walls also.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_106_106" id="Footnote_106_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> The late doorway approached by four steps, east of the +cross-wall, occupies the place of one of the windows.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_107_107" id="Footnote_107_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> Three kinds of stone occur in this crypt: a sandstone, a +fine gritstone, and a coarser and harder gritstone.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_108_108" id="Footnote_108_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a> There are numerous entries in the Fabric Rolls, from 1512 +onwards, relating to expenses ‘for the carriage of the bones.’</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_109_109" id="Footnote_109_109"></a><a href="#FNanchor_109_109"><span class="label">[109]</span></a> One has a sword graven upon it, another a pair of shears +(closed), another a book and a chalice, the latter slightly tipped, +while a gravestone lying in the apse has upon it a dagger, and a pair of +shears open.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_110_110" id="Footnote_110_110"></a><a href="#FNanchor_110_110"><span class="label">[110]</span></a> Since it is probable that the axis of the church has +always, at all periods, passed over the Saxon crypt, the Chapter-house +and vestry can hardly have been the south aisle of the choir before the +time of Archbishop Roger (as Walbran supposed), for they are too far +south; indeed, they would seem rather to have been a chapel thrown out +from such an aisle.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_111_111" id="Footnote_111_111"></a><a href="#FNanchor_111_111"><span class="label">[111]</span></a> In the storey above will be found certain buttresses +which are clearly his, which stand exactly over these piers, and of +which the latter are probably merely the lower portions.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_112_112" id="Footnote_112_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112_112"><span class="label">[112]</span></a> The supposition that the arches were added afterwards +would explain why the westernmost of them cuts off the top of the arch +over the door.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_113_113" id="Footnote_113_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113_113"><span class="label">[113]</span></a> That it is his can hardly be doubted. The moulding and +slope at the top resemble those which characterize the wall-base +throughout his work.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_114_114" id="Footnote_114_114"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114_114"><span class="label">[114]</span></a> <i>Murray’s Cathedrals</i>, Pt. 1, p. 180.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_115_115" id="Footnote_115_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115_115"><span class="label">[115]</span></a> See <a href="#CHAPTER_I">Chapter I</a>.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_116_116" id="Footnote_116_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116_116"><span class="label">[116]</span></a> A view of the crypt as it was before the removal of the +bones represents the vaulting as propped also by certain pillars of +Perpendicular character. These may have been removed by Sir Gilbert +Scott.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_117_117" id="Footnote_117_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117_117"><span class="label">[117]</span></a> <i>I.e.</i>, if that wall was not erected contemporaneously +with the said Lady Chapel.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_118_118" id="Footnote_118_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118_118"><span class="label">[118]</span></a> For its date see <a href="#CHAPTER_I">Chapters I.</a> and <a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_119_119" id="Footnote_119_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119_119"><span class="label">[119]</span></a> Can Leland mean that the books, then as now, were in the +Lady-loft, and that part of it was used as a vestry?</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_120_120" id="Footnote_120_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120_120"><span class="label">[120]</span></a> In 1567 a number of books were found in ‘a vawte’ of the +church, where they had been concealed for safety (<i>Surtees Soc.</i>, vol. +lxxxi. p. 344).</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_121_121" id="Footnote_121_121"></a><a href="#FNanchor_121_121"><span class="label">[121]</span></a> For a full account of this interesting library, see the +monograph by the Rev. Canon Fowler, F.S.A., of Durham, by whom the books +were arranged in 1872. A copy is kept in the room.</p> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.<br /> + +<span class="chaptitle">OTHER OLD BUILDINGS IN RIPON.</span></h2> + + +<p><b>The Deanery</b>, a stone house with two gabled wings, stands opposite to the +north transept. It was built in or about 1625. The front bears the royal +arms, and the hall contains some paintings of the kings and queens of +England, which are more curious than valuable, and are probably of no +very great age. Before the house is an ancient stone wall with +strongly-marked base, gable coping, and a doorway whose trefoil head was +apparently not made for its present position. This may perhaps be part +of Abbot Huby’s wall, or of the boundary-wall of either the Palace or +the Bedern.</p> + +<p>Near the south-west tower is a fine red-brick house which doubtless +remembers the Georges, or even Queen Anne. It has all the air of a +prebendal residence, but if it was ever connected with the church, that +connection has long ceased.</p> + +<p>Another red-brick house of some age, adjoining the picturesque ascent +from High St. Agnesgate to the south transept, was the Canons’ Residence +up to 1859, when was bought the present Residence near the north-east +corner of the graveyard.</p> + +<p>High St. Agnesgate contains several interesting buildings, foremost +among which is <b>St. Anne’s Hospital</b>,<a name="FNanchor_122_122" id="FNanchor_122_122"></a><a href="#Footnote_122_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a> formerly called ‘The Maidens’ +Due’ (Maison de Dieu), with its interesting ruined chapel. This is the +only one of the three hospitals which was never affiliated to the +Collegiate Church. The date of its origin has been placed shortly before +1438, in which year a chantry was founded in its chapel. The hospital +foundation was for four poor men and four poor women, and there were +also two beds for ‘casuals’; and the little community was under the +charge of a priest. There was apparently no endowment. The domestic +portion of the building was pulled down in 1869. Though it had been +divided into cottages some time before that date, the original +arrangements have been recovered from an old document and from certain +indications that had <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span>survived in the fabric itself. Joined to the west +end of the chapel was a sort of nave, divided down the middle by a +partition, on one side of which were the beds for the men, on the other +those for the women, while at the west end were two rooms for the +priest. This ‘nave’ was probably open to the chapel, as the large size +of the western arch of the latter seems to indicate, and possibly the +infirmer inmates could attend the service without leaving their +beds.<a name="FNanchor_123_123" id="FNanchor_123_123"></a><a href="#Footnote_123_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a></p> + +<p>To pass to the chapel itself—a window in the north wall has been +blocked with masonry, upon which is a shield of arms, thought to be +those of Sir Solomon Swale of South Stainley, and surmounted by a +Maltese cross with the letters S.S. and the date 1654 upon it. The west +gable has once been crowned by a bell-cote, and attached to the +south-west corner of the chapel are the remains of an arched doorway. +The western arch of the building, curiously enough, is not in the middle +of the wall. It is recessed and chamfered, and rests upon two +semi-cylindrical responds, whose rather curious capitals do not follow +the form of the shaft, but are triple and rectangular. The chapel +internally is 20 feet 10 inches long and 11 feet 6 inches wide, and is +not at right angles to its western wall, but inclines considerably +toward the south. In the middle of the entrance is an octagonal basin, +supported on a pedestal and having a shield on each of its sides. This +is thought to have been a stoup for holy water. It is not, perhaps, in +its original position, and the pedestal does not seem to belong to it. +Opposite to the blocked window already mentioned, which has an aumbry +east of it, there is a late square-headed window of two lights, whose +arches do not reach quite up to the lintel, but are connected with it by +short perpendiculars. East of this is a piscina with projecting +semi-octagonal basin, trefoil head, and ogee hood, and with a small +square window above and to the left of it. The stone slab on two stone +supports against the east wall is probably the original altar, and +tradition says that the ransom of a Scottish prince was paid down upon +it. On either side of the altar is a stone bracket, that on the north +side bearing a shield of arms.<a name="FNanchor_124_124" id="FNanchor_124_124"></a><a href="#Footnote_124_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a> The east window, which is blocked, +is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span>divided into two lights, and the head is almost filled by a large +quatrefoil, of which the uppermost and lowermost foils are ogees. This +window, and the piers and capitals of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span>western arch, give the +impression that the chapel is of a date earlier than that usually +assigned for the foundation of the hospital. The modern cottages are +inhabited by eight women.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 354px;"> +<a name="image49" id="image49"></a><a href="images/image49-full.png"><img src="images/image49.png" width="354" height="461" alt="Drawing of chapel" title="THE CHAPEL OF ST. ANNE’S HOSPITAL." /></a> +<p class="caption">THE CHAPEL OF ST. ANNE’S HOSPITAL.</p> + +<p class="caption">(From a pen-drawing by the author.)</p> +</div> + +<p>Between St. Anne’s Hospital and Bondgate Green Bridge stands the <b>Thorp +Prebendal House</b>, now divided into several dwellings. Whether its +existing fabric is as old as the Reformation or not, this was the site +upon which dwelt the Canons of the mediæval prebend of Thorp. In 1391 +the hall of the then existing house was used for casting several bells +for the Minster, and here, in later days, as Canon of Thorp, lived +Marmaduke Bradley. The house is said to have been sold by Edward VI. to +the Earl of Cumberland, and to have subsequently sheltered Mary Queen of +Scots, James I, and Charles I. It is best seen from the adjoining +bridge, whence its plastered walls, irregular gables, and stone roof +form a picturesque foreground to the Cathedral. Of the dwellings into +which it is now divided, the third from the bridge contains the grand +staircase, which has twisted skeleton balusters.</p> + +<p>East of St. Anne’s Hospital, there are two more old houses, one of +which, known as <b>St. Agnes’ Lodge</b>,<a name="FNanchor_125_125" id="FNanchor_125_125"></a><a href="#Footnote_125_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a> is of considerable interest. The +body of it, long and low, with a high-pitched roof and with a massive +chimney-stack buttressing one end, is said to be of the time of Henry +VII., but derives much of its ‘character’ from the comparatively modern +windows, which resemble the portholes of a ship. A wing added in the +seventeenth century, with quaint curvilinear gable, projects into the +garden behind. Within the house is a square hall, having above the +fireplace some carving and a painted panel of the burning of London in +1666. There is also a good oak staircase, and in the upper storey are +several quaint features, including a cupboard that may have served for a +hiding-place, and two ‘powdering-closets’ in which ladies’ hair, or +men’s wigs, could be powdered in the eighteenth century. But the part of +the house most interesting architecturally is the attics, where the +framing of the king-post roof is extremely massive, while the floor is +of <i>concrete</i>.<a name="FNanchor_126_126" id="FNanchor_126_126"></a><a href="#Footnote_126_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a> One of the roof-beams in the wing bears the date +1693. This house disputes with the Thorp<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> Prebendal House the honour of +having sheltered Mary Queen of Scots on her way from Bolton Castle to +Tutbury, and it is said that it was during her sojourn at Ripon that she +addressed an appeal to Queen Elizabeth and received an offer of marriage +from the Duke of Norfolk. St. Agnes’ Lodge claims also to have been a +temporary home of Turner, at the time when he was illustrating +Whitaker’s <i>History of Craven</i> and <i>History of Richmondshire</i>. Whether +this house or its immediately western neighbour were ever prebendal +residences it is now difficult to say.</p> + +<p>Two old gabled houses remain in the Market-place, and one of them, now a +basket-shop, is said to have been the residence of Hugh Ripley, last +Wakeman and first Mayor of Ripon.</p> + +<p>At the north end of Stonebridgegate, and not far from the Ure, stands +the <b>Hospital of St. Mary Magdalene</b>, sometimes called ‘The Maudlins.’ It +was founded by Archbishop Thurstan (1114-1141) for secular brethren and +sisters, and one chaplain. The brethren and sisters were not merely to +benefit by the charity themselves, but were to minister to lepers and +blind priests born within the Liberty of Ripon, a certain number of whom +were received into the Hospital. Lepers from outside the Liberty were +entitled to a night’s lodging: so also apparently were any other +strangers or mendicant clergy who might be passing through the town. On +St. Mary Magdalene’s day there was a dole of food to the poor. A second +chaplain was subsequently added by the benefaction of one William de +Homelyn. At some period, apparently after 1241, the character of the +foundation was changed by another Archbishop, whose name is not known. +The brethren and sisters disappeared, and the staff consisted henceforth +of a Master and one chaplain, or sometimes two. The Master was appointed +by the Archbishop, and was generally a clerk, though sometimes only in +<a name="corr6" id="corr6"></a>acolyte’s Orders. In 1334 one John Warrener, of Studley Roger, founded +here a chantry of two if not three priests. Thus there may have been no +less than six clergy attached to this small chapel; but the number was +not kept up, and at the Reformation there were, besides the Master, only +the two priests of Warrener’s foundation. The Hospital continued to +minister to blind priests, and also to lepers until leprosy died out. +The lepers’ portion of the building was demolished about 1350.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> In +1546-7 the inmates were ‘five poor people.’ All traces of the Master’s +house, the hall, the brewery, and the original dwellings have vanished. +The dwellings were rebuilt in 1674, and again in 1875, since which date +more cottages have been added, and a new chapel; and the hospital now +accommodates twelve poor women. The Mastership, still in the gift of the +Archbishop, is at present held with one of the canonries, and the cure +of souls is discharged by a non-resident chaplain.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 136px;"> +<a name="image50" id="image50"></a><a href="images/image50-full.jpg"><img src="images/image50.jpg" width="136" height="279" alt="Photo of the seal" title="SEAL OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE’S HOSPITAL" /></a> +<p class="caption">SEAL OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE’S HOSPITAL</p> +</div> + +<p>Fortunately the old chapel remains. The main fabric is apparently +Thurstan’s. It is of gritstone, but has been much altered and repaired +at later periods, when limestone has been used. To the later work belong +the set-off of the base, the coigns, the parapet, the east part of the +south wall, the framing of most of the windows and doors, and the +buttress and bell-cote at the west end.</p> + +<p>The west front is now divided by a large buttress of many stages +terminating in a slope, but the plinth of this buttress is apparently +original. To the right of the buttress is a long two-cusped lancet +light; to the left may be traced, perhaps, the outline of an original +round-arched window; while on both sides there are sloping lines in the +masonry, as if there had been an acutely-pointed gable here.</p> + +<p>The north side of the chapel has been propped at a late period by three +sloping buttresses. At its western end is a doorway, the jambs of which +seem original, while the pointed head is later. About half-way along +this side is one of those ‘low side windows’ through which, it is +supposed, the Sacrament was administered to lepers—indeed, the +leper-house stood on this side of the chapel.<a name="FNanchor_127_127" id="FNanchor_127_127"></a><a href="#Footnote_127_127" class="fnanchor">[127]</a> Though of limestone, +this small lancet window, with its arch and dripstone trefoiled, is +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span>apparently of the thirteenth century, and an early example of its +class. East of it are, first a Perpendicular window of two lights—late +in character, and second a partially-blocked and possibly original +doorway, perhaps for the priest, (though priests’ doors are usually on +the south side). Its outer arch is rounded, while the inner is pointed +and has perhaps been altered.</p> + +<p>The east window is broad, finely arched, and surmounted by a bold +dripstone terminating in heads. Its four lights, partially blocked, are +round-headed, with rather large cusps, and in the upper part of the +window there is much tracery, in which perpendicular lines lead up to +arches that intersect. Indeed it is difficult to say whether this fine +window is an example of late Perpendicular, or of the transition to that +style from the Decorated.</p> + +<p>It is on the south side that the irregularity in the size, spacing, and +level of the windows in this chapel is most marked. Here toward the +eastern end is a square-headed Perpendicular window of two lights, much +resembling the south window at St. Anne’s Hospital, and surmounted by a +square label. Next comes a small lancet, probably Early English, with no +limestone about it. The next window is tall, rectangular, and without +tracery, but the stump of a mullion remains on the sill, which is of +gritstone. West of this is the principal entrance, a Norman arch, +beneath which a pointed arch has been inserted, the original imposts, +however, remaining. The upper arch is enriched with the chevron, and its +dripstone with two rows of the round billet arranged chequerwise and +with a moulding composed of a series of little crosses, rather +suggestive of the dog-tooth.</p> + +<p>The interior has up to this time escaped ‘restoration.’ There have been +repairs, but enough only to arrest decay, and the plaster has not been +removed from the walls.<a name="FNanchor_128_128" id="FNanchor_128_128"></a><a href="#Footnote_128_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> The length internally is about 49 feet and +the breadth just over 16 feet. The floor is of brick, and the roof, +which is almost flat, has been much renovated, but retains its original +massive cross beams and wooden corbels. Internally the two <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span>western +doorways are rounded, and just east of them the chapel is crossed by a +late Perpendicular screen, which retains its folding doors, and has an +uncommon effect due to the great length of the mullions in the upper +part. The lower portion was once closed. It is perhaps more probable +that this is the original position of the screen than that it ever +stretched across the Sanctuary. Against the north wall is a fine old +chest raised on feet and bound with many iron clamps ending in scrolls. +It has a double lock and a ring at either end, and inside it is kept a +curious bell of wood painted to resemble metal, and said to have been +hung in the bell-cote by an unscrupulous official who had caused the +real bell to be sold.</p> + +<p>The ‘low side window’ internally has a depressed pointed arch, and is +widely splayed, as are also the tall and the short window opposite. It +is remarkable that although the windows differ so much externally, yet +internally all except the ‘low side window’ and the east window are of +the form known as the ‘shouldered arch,’ a form which, by-the-way, is +more usually employed in doorways.</p> + +<p>In front of the Sanctuary are preserved two old Perpendicular pews or +stalls, with carved finials. The Sanctuary itself is raised on two +steps, and extends eight feet from the east wall. The blocked door +noticed on the exterior would open into the chapel immediately west of +the line of the lower step.</p> + +<p>This is among the very few churches in the country which retain the +pre-Reformation stone altar, and if the instance at St. Anne’s Hospital +is genuine, Ripon thus possesses two examples of this rare feature. The +altar here is 7 feet 7 inches long, 3 feet 5 inches wide, 2 feet 11 +inches high, and has no step. Two of the usual five incised crosses (the +larger cross near the middle is probably spurious) may still be traced +upon the slab, the lower edge of which is chamfered off. In the front of +the substructure are two deep recesses. The altar is flanked by two +stone brackets. On the north wall is a third, and in the south wall a +piscina with two-cusped arch and projecting basin.</p> + +<p>In front of the altar is a tessellated pavement 11 feet long and nearly +4 feet wide. It is chiefly composed of red and blackish <i>tesseræ</i>; but +in the centre is a circular medallion containing a large four-petalled +white flower with a red centre and small red flowers between the petals, +all upon a ground of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>black. It has been supposed that this pavement was +taken from the neighbouring remains of some Roman building. As regards +the central medallion this is probably the case, but the rest of the +pavement seems to be later work, perhaps of the thirteenth century.<a name="FNanchor_129_129" id="FNanchor_129_129"></a><a href="#Footnote_129_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a> +At the south end of the pavement is the slab of another and smaller +altar, retaining three of its incised crosses.</p> + +<p>It appears from a document of 1306 that the chapel at that date +contained certain ‘relics’ of St. Mary Magdalene.</p> + +<p>Of the mediæval bridges of Ripon <b>The North Bridge</b> alone survives.<a name="FNanchor_130_130" id="FNanchor_130_130"></a><a href="#Footnote_130_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a> +It crosses the Ure on nine arches with bold buttresses, triangular in +plan, between them, and is prolonged, with three smaller arches, over +the low meadow which forms the southern shore. It is from this shore +that the best view of it is to be obtained, a few yards down stream. The +arches, some of them recessed, vary in height and span, but all are +round save two, over one of which there is a corbel-table below the +parapet. The other side of the bridge was remodelled some twenty years +ago.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_122_122" id="Footnote_122_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122_122"><span class="label">[122]</span></a> In the mediæval records the street is almost invariably +called Annesgate, and indeed was probably named after the hospital. The +form ‘Agnesgate’ is, however, not modern, for it occurs in 1462. It may +have arisen from a trisyllabic pronunciation of ‘Annesgate.’</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_123_123" id="Footnote_123_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123_123"><span class="label">[123]</span></a> Thus far I am largely indebted to a paper on this +hospital by the Rev. W. C. Lukis, F.S.A. in the twelfth edition of +Walbran’s <i>Ripon</i>.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_124_124" id="Footnote_124_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124_124"><span class="label">[124]</span></a> Possibly those of Boynton or Plumpton (<i>Parker</i>).</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_125_125" id="Footnote_125_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125_125"><span class="label">[125]</span></a> The house is not shown.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_126_126" id="Footnote_126_126"></a><a href="#FNanchor_126_126"><span class="label">[126]</span></a> This latter peculiarity is found also in a house at +Bishopton, a mile off.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_127_127" id="Footnote_127_127"></a><a href="#FNanchor_127_127"><span class="label">[127]</span></a> Some archæologists, however, hold that the purpose of low +side windows was to display a light to scare away demons.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_128_128" id="Footnote_128_128"></a><a href="#FNanchor_128_128"><span class="label">[128]</span></a> It is probable that in the interior of many of our old +churches the surface of the stone was never meant to be seen, and was +covered with plaster at the time of building. The plaster was doubtless +often adorned with designs in colour.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_129_129" id="Footnote_129_129"></a><a href="#FNanchor_129_129"><span class="label">[129]</span></a> This view is held by Mr. Micklethwaite. The white +<i>tesseræ</i> in the medallion resemble some which were dug up in 1837 on +the site assigned by Leland to the ‘Old Abbay of Ripon’ and which have +been adduced to support the view that Wilfrid’s Abbey Church stood on +that site and not on the site of the present Cathedral (see <a href="#Page_77">p. 77</a> and <a href="#FNanchor_72_72">n. +4</a> there).</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_130_130" id="Footnote_130_130"></a><a href="#FNanchor_130_130"><span class="label">[130]</span></a> The others were Bondgate Bridge (over the Skell), +Bishopton Bridge (over the Laver), Hewick Bridge (over the Ure below the +town), the Archer-bridge, and the ‘Esgel-bridge.’ The position of the +two last is uncertain, and the rest have long been rebuilt. Bishopton +Bridge had a chapel upon it with which was connected a hermit. In the +middle ages the bridges were under the charge of the Archbishop. They +were often the recipients of bequests, but were themselves made to +contribute to the Common Fund of the Collegiate Church, by means of +money-boxes which were placed upon them.</p> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX.</h2> + + +<p class="heading"><a name="ABBOTS" id="ABBOTS"></a>ABBOTS OF THE SAXON MONASTERY.</p> + +<table width="50%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Saxon abbots"> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">St. Eata</td> + <td class="tdr"><i>c.</i> 657-661.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">St. Wilfrid</td> + <td class="tdr">661-709.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Tatberht</td> + <td class="tdr">709.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Botwine</td> + <td class="tdr">died 786.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Alberht</td> + <td class="tdr">786-787.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Sigred</td> + <td class="tdr">787.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Uilden or Wildeng</td> + <td class="tdr">?</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap"><a name="Canons" id="Canons"></a>Canons of Stanwick in the Mediæval Collegiate Church</span>.<a name="FNanchor_131_131" id="FNanchor_131_131"></a><a href="#Footnote_131_131" class="fnanchor">[131]</a></p> + +<table width="50%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Mediaeval Canons"> +<tr> + <td>Geoffrey de Bockland</td> + <td class="tdr"><i>circa</i> 1226.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Laurence de Topcliffe</td> + <td class="tdr"><i>circa</i> 1230.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Eadmund de Maundevill</td> + <td class="tdr">resigned 1279.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Anthony Beck<a name="FNanchor_132_132" id="FNanchor_132_132"></a><a href="#Footnote_132_132" class="fnanchor">[132]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1279.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Roger Swayne</td> + <td class="tdr"><i>c.</i> 1285-<i>c.</i> 1311.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Richard de Henney</td> + <td class="tdr">1311-<i>c.</i> 1315.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>William de Seton</td> + <td class="tdr">1316-<i>c.</i> 1320.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Thomas de Cave</td> + <td class="tdr">1320-<i>c.</i> 1322.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Robert de Rypon</td> + <td class="tdr">1322-<i>c.</i> 1333.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Peter de Wetwang</td> + <td class="tdr">1333.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>John de Crakhall</td> + <td class="tdr"><i>c.</i> 1344-<i>c.</i> 1378.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>John de Seggefield</td> + <td class="tdr">1378-1384.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>John de Middleton</td> + <td class="tdr">1384-1397.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>John de Dene<a name="FNanchor_133_133" id="FNanchor_133_133"></a><a href="#Footnote_133_133" class="fnanchor">[133]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1397-<i>c.</i> 1435.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Simon Alcock</td> + <td class="tdr">1435-<i>c.</i> 1436.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Richard Morton</td> + <td class="tdr">1436-? 1447.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>John Clere</td> + <td class="tdr">? 1447-1478.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Robert Symson</td> + <td class="tdr">1479-1481.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Thomas Bakehouse</td> + <td class="tdr">1481-<i>c.</i> 1521.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Richard Dean</td> + <td class="tdr"><i>c.</i> 1535-<i>c.</i> 1545.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Christopher Seale</td> + <td class="tdr"><i>c.</i> 1545-? 1547.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p> + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap"><a name="Deans_of_King_James_Is" id="Deans_of_King_James_Is"></a>Deans of King James I.’s Foundation</span>.</p> + +<table width="50%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="King Janes’s Deans"> +<tr> + <td>Moses Fowler, B.D.</td> + <td class="tdr">1604-1608.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Anthony Higgin, B.D.</td> + <td class="tdr">1608-1624.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>John Wilson, D.D.</td> + <td class="tdr">1624-1634.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Thomas Dod, D.D.<a name="FNanchor_134_134" id="FNanchor_134_134"></a><a href="#Footnote_134_134" class="fnanchor">[134]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1635-<i>c.</i> 1645.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>John Wilkins, D.D., F.R.S.<a name="FNanchor_135_135" id="FNanchor_135_135"></a><a href="#Footnote_135_135" class="fnanchor">[135]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1660-1668.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>John Neile, D.D.<a name="FNanchor_136_136" id="FNanchor_136_136"></a><a href="#Footnote_136_136" class="fnanchor">[136]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1674-1675.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Thomas Tullie, D.D.</td> + <td class="tdr">1675.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Thomas Cartwright, D.D.<a name="FNanchor_137_137" id="FNanchor_137_137"></a><a href="#Footnote_137_137" class="fnanchor">[137]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1675-1686.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Christopher Wyvill, D.D.<a name="FNanchor_138_138" id="FNanchor_138_138"></a><a href="#Footnote_138_138" class="fnanchor">[138]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1686-1710.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Heneage Dering, LL.D.<a name="FNanchor_139_139" id="FNanchor_139_139"></a><a href="#Footnote_139_139" class="fnanchor">[139]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1710-1750.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Francis Wanley, D.D.<a name="FNanchor_140_140" id="FNanchor_140_140"></a><a href="#Footnote_140_140" class="fnanchor">[140]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1750-1791.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Robert Darley Waddilove, LL.D., F.S.A.<a name="FNanchor_141_141" id="FNanchor_141_141"></a><a href="#Footnote_141_141" class="fnanchor">[141]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1792-1828.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>James Webber, D.D.</td> + <td class="tdr">1828-</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="heading"><span class="smcap"><a name="Deans_of_the_Cathedral" id="Deans_of_the_Cathedral"></a>Deans of the Cathedral Foundation</span>.</p> + +<table width="50%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Deans"> +<tr> + <td>James Webber, D.D.<a name="FNanchor_142_142" id="FNanchor_142_142"></a><a href="#Footnote_142_142" class="fnanchor">[142]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">-1847.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Hon. Henry David Erskine, D.D.<a name="FNanchor_143_143" id="FNanchor_143_143"></a><a href="#Footnote_143_143" class="fnanchor">[143]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1847-1859.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Thomas Garnier, B.C.L.</td> + <td class="tdr">1859-1860.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>William Goode, D.D., F.S.A.</td> + <td class="tdr">1860-1868.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Hugh M‘Neile, D.D.</td> + <td class="tdr">1868-1876.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Sydney Turner, B.A.</td> + <td class="tdr">1876.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>William Robert Fremantle, D.D.</td> + <td class="tdr">1876-1895.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Hon. William Henry Fremantle, D.D.</td> + <td class="tdr">1895.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="heading"><a name="BISHOPS" id="BISHOPS"></a>BISHOPS OF RIPON.</p> + +<table width="50%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Bishops"> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Eadhead</td> + <td class="tdr">681-686.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Charles Thomas Longley, D.D., F.S.A.<a name="FNanchor_144_144" id="FNanchor_144_144"></a><a href="#Footnote_144_144" class="fnanchor">[144]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1836-1856.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Robert Bickersteth, D.D., F.R.S.<a name="FNanchor_145_145" id="FNanchor_145_145"></a><a href="#Footnote_145_145" class="fnanchor">[145]</a></td> + <td class="tdr">1857-1884.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">William Boyd-carpenter, D.D.</td> + <td class="tdr">1884.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<div class="footnotes" style="margin-top: 2em;"> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_131_131" id="Footnote_131_131"></a><a href="#FNanchor_131_131"><span class="label">[131]</span></a> The mediæval College of Canons had no official head, but +the Prebendary of Stanwick, as Ruler of the Choir, was generally in +residence, and was in some sense the most important of the Canons. He +did not, however, preside, at least not if any other Canon was in +residence. Thus Christopher Dragley (Prebendary of Monkton) was often +<i>Praesidens Capituli</i> from 1533 to 1539, and Marmaduke Bradley +(Prebendary of Thorp) from 1544 to 1546.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_132_132" id="Footnote_132_132"></a><a href="#FNanchor_132_132"><span class="label">[132]</span></a> Afterwards the celebrated Bishop of Durham, one of the +most prominent personages at the court of Edward I.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_133_133" id="Footnote_133_133"></a><a href="#FNanchor_133_133"><span class="label">[133]</span></a> A brass to him is preserved in the Cathedral. The +inscription was probably cut in his lifetime, for the space for the date +of his death is left blank. He helped to found the chantry of St. +Wilfrid, and is buried in the Choir.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_134_134" id="Footnote_134_134"></a><a href="#FNanchor_134_134"><span class="label">[134]</span></a> Deprived by the Parliament when they suppressed the +Chapter.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_135_135" id="Footnote_135_135"></a><a href="#FNanchor_135_135"><span class="label">[135]</span></a> One of the founders of the Royal Society: married Oliver +Cromwell’s sister: became Bishop of Chester.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_136_136" id="Footnote_136_136"></a><a href="#FNanchor_136_136"><span class="label">[136]</span></a> Buried near the vestry door.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_137_137" id="Footnote_137_137"></a><a href="#FNanchor_137_137"><span class="label">[137]</span></a> Became Bishop of Chester, and was a strong supporter of +James II.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_138_138" id="Footnote_138_138"></a><a href="#FNanchor_138_138"><span class="label">[138]</span></a> Buried within the Altar-rails (brass).</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_139_139" id="Footnote_139_139"></a><a href="#FNanchor_139_139"><span class="label">[139]</span></a> Buried in the north choir-aisle (tablet).</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_140_140" id="Footnote_140_140"></a><a href="#FNanchor_140_140"><span class="label">[140]</span></a> Buried in the Cathedral (formerly there was a tablet in +the south aisle of the nave).</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_141_141" id="Footnote_141_141"></a><a href="#FNanchor_141_141"><span class="label">[141]</span></a> Tablet in the Chapter-house.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_142_142" id="Footnote_142_142"></a><a href="#FNanchor_142_142"><span class="label">[142]</span></a> Buried within the Altar-rails.</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_143_143" id="Footnote_143_143"></a><a href="#FNanchor_143_143"><span class="label">[143]</span></a> Buried in the graveyard near the north-east corner of the +choir (tomb by Sir Gilbert Scott).</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_144_144" id="Footnote_144_144"></a><a href="#FNanchor_144_144"><span class="label">[144]</span></a> Afterwards Bishop of Durham, then Archbishop of York, and +finally Archbishop of Canterbury. The modern diocese of Ripon does not +correspond in area with that over which Eadhead presided (<i>see <a href="#CHAPTER_I">Chap. +I</a>.</i>)</p> + +<p class="footnote" title="footnote"><a name="Footnote_145_145" id="Footnote_145_145"></a><a href="#FNanchor_145_145"><span class="label">[145]</span></a> Buried in the graveyard near the south-east corner of the +choir.</p> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2> + + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Abbots</span>, list of, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li> + <li>Ailcy Hill, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>.</li> + <li>Aisles of the nave, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">south aisle, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">north aisle, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">of the choir, (north) <a href="#Page_113">113</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">(south) <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li> + <li>Archbishops of York, <a href="#Page_13">13</a> <i>et seq.</i></li> + <li>Athelstan, King, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Bas-relief</span> of lion, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</li> + <li>Bedern, the, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</li> + <li>Bells, the, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.</li> + <li>Bishops of Ripon, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> + <li>Bridge, the North, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Canons</span>, irregularities of the, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li> + <li>Canons of Stanwick, list of, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li> + <li>Chantries, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</li> + <li>Chapter, the, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">re-established, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li> + <li>Chapter-house, the, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122-125</a>.</li> + <li>Charles I., <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</li> + <li>Choir, the, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">interior, <a href="#Page_96">96-117</a>.</li> + <li>College of Canons, the, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li> + <li>Courts, ecclesiastical and secular, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li> + <li>Crypt, the Saxon, <a href="#Page_71">71-78</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">the Norman, <a href="#Page_117">117-120</a>.</li> + <li>Cuthbert, St., <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Deanery</span>, the, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li> + <li>Deans, list of, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> + <li>Dedication by Wilfrid, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</li> + <li>Diocese of Ripon, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Eadhead</span>, Bishop of Ripon, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</li> + <li>East End, the, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</li> + <li>Eata, first Abbot, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> + <li>Edward I., <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Fonts</span>, the, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li> + <li>Grammar-School, Ripon, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30-36</a>.</li> + <li>Gray, Archbishop Walter de, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Henry</span> IV., <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li> + <li>Henry V., <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">James</span> I., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Lady-Kirk</span>, the, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li> + <li>Lady-loft, the, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li> + <li>Liberty of Ripon, <a href="#Page_19">19-37</a>.</li> + <li>Library, the, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Mallory</span> Chapel, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + <li>Markenfield Chapel and tombs, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li> + <li>Monastery of Ripon, the (Scottish), <a href="#Page_4">4</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">(Saxon), <a href="#Page_5">5</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">end of, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Nave</span>, rebuilding of, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">north side, exterior, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">south side, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">interior, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Oda</span>, Archbishop of Canterbury, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> + <li>Organ, the, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</li> + <li>Oswald, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Palace</span>, Archiepiscopal, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li> + <li>Peculiar, the parish a, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li> + <li>Prebends, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li> + <li>Presbytery, arrangement of the, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li> + <li>Pulpit (Old) in north transept, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span>Ripon Minster, foundation of the Scottish monastery, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">original site of, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">dedication of new church, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">end of monastery, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">as a collegiate church, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">as a parochial church, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">present church built, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">central tower reconstructed, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">nave rebuilt, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li> + <li>Rising in the North, the, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li> + <li>Roger de Pont l’Evêque, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">his plan, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</li> + <li>Rood Screen, the, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">St. Agnes’</span> Lodge, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</li> + <li>St. Anne’s Hospital, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li> + <li>St. John’s Hospital, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</li> + <li>St. Mary Magdalene’s Hospital, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</li> + <li>Sanctuary, right of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li> + <li>Saxon monastery, the, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li> + <li>Scots, incursion of, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li> + <li>Scottish monastery, the, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li> + <li>Sedilia, the, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li> + <li>Site, original, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li> + <li>Spires, fall and removal of the, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</li> + <li>Stalls, the choir, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</li> + <li>Stammergate, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li> + <li>Stanwick, Prebend, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Theodore</span>, Archbishop of Canterbury, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</li> + <li>Thomas of Bayeux, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> + <li>Thorp, prebendal house, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</li> + <li>Throne, the Bishop’s, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">the Archbishop’s, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</li> + <li>Thurstan, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</li> + <li>Tower, the central, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">interior, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + <li>Towers, western, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li> + <li>Transept, north, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">south, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">interior, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">north, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">south, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Vault-bosses</span> in choir, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li> + <li>Vaulting, north transept, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li> + <li>Vestry, the, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> + <li><span class="smcap">Wakeman</span>, the, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li> + <li>West front, the, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">interior, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>.</li> + <li>West Gate, the, demolished, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li> + <li>Wilfrid, St., <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">relics of, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">translation of, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">shrine of, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>;</li> + <li class="subhead">crypt of, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.</li> + <li>William, St., of York (Archbishop Fitzherbert), <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> + <li>Window, east, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li> + <li>Wolsey, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li> + <li>Wulfstan, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 427px;"> +<a name="image51" id="image51"></a><a href="images/image51-full.png"><img src="images/image51.png" width="427" height="615" alt="Drawing of plan of the cathedral" title="Ground Plan of Ripon Cathedral." /></a> +<p class="caption">GROUND PLAN OF RIPON CATHEDRAL.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span></p> + +<p class="heading">DIMENSIONS (internal).</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="dimensions"> +<tr> + <td>Total Length,</td> + <td class="tdr">270</td> + <td>feet</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Length of Nave,</td> + <td class="tdr">133</td> + <td class="padded1">”</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Width of Nave,</td> + <td class="tdr">87</td> + <td class="padded1">”</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Width of Transept,</td> + <td class="tdr">52</td> + <td class="padded1">”</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Height of Vault (Nave),</td> + <td class="tdr">88</td> + <td class="padded1">”</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Height of Towers,</td> + <td class="tdr">110</td> + <td class="padded1">”</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Area,</td> + <td class="tdr">25,280</td> + <td>square feet.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 3em;">PRINTED BY NEILL AND CO., LTD., EDINBURGH.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div style="background-color: #EEE; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em;"> +<p class="center noindent"><a name="trans_note" id="trans_note"></a><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">The following typographical errors have been corrected:</p> + +<table style="margin-left: 0%;" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="typos"> +<tr> + <td>Page</td> + <td>Error</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr1">2</a></td> + <td>the Tower. changed to the Tower.)</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr2">10, fn. 10</a></td> + <td>St Wilfrid’s changed to St. Wilfrid’s</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr3">111</a></td> + <td>ascendency changed to ascendancy</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr4">115, fn. 103</a></td> + <td>Surtee’s changed to Surtees</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr5">118</a></td> + <td>anyrate changed to any rate</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr6">137</a></td> + <td>acolyte’s Orders changed to acolyte’s Orders.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="noindent">The following words were inconsitently spelled:</p> + +<p class="noindent">afterthought / after-thought<br /> +Agnesgate / Agnes-gate<br /> +aisleless / aisle-less<br /> +stonework / stone-work</p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BELL'S CATHEDRALS: THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF RIPON***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 25800-h.txt or 25800-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/5/8/0/25800">http://www.gutenberg.org/2/5/8/0/25800</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the 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Cathedral Church of +Ripon, by Cecil Walter Charles Hallett + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Ripon + A Short History of the Church and a Description of Its Fabric + + +Author: Cecil Walter Charles Hallett + + + +Release Date: June 16, 2008 [eBook #25800] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BELL'S CATHEDRALS: THE CATHEDRAL +CHURCH OF RIPON*** + + +E-text prepared by Jonathan Ingram, Julia Miller, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 25800-h.htm or 25800-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/5/8/0/25800/25800-h/25800-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/5/8/0/25800/25800-h.zip) + + +Transcriber's note + + Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of + changes is found at the end of the book. Inconsistencies in + spelling and hyphenation have been retained. A list of + inconsistently spelled words is found at the end of the book. + + Text enclosed by equal signs was in bold face in the original + (=bold text=). + + + + + +THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF RIPON + +A Short History of the +Church & a Description +of Its Fabric + +by + +CECIL HALLETT, B.A. +Magdalen Coll., Oxford + +With 53 Illustrations + + + + + + + +[Illustration: RIPON CATHEDRAL FROM THE FOOTBRIDGE OVER THE SKELL.] + + + +[Illustration] + +London George Bell & Sons 1901 + + + + +PREFACE. + + +The original authorities for the history (both constitutional and +architectural) of the Church of Ripon have been most ably edited for the +Surtees Society by the Rev. Canon J. T. Fowler, F.S.A., in his +_Memorials of Ripon_ and _The Ripon Chapter Acts_ (_Surtees Soc._, vols. +74, 78, 81, 64). These authorities range from the Saxon period to the +times following the Reformation, but in the Introductions to vol. 81, +and in the Rev. J. Ward's _Fasti Riponienses_, included in vol. 78, the +story is virtually continued to our own day; while the aforesaid +Introductions epitomise, in its constitutional and architectural +aspects, the whole history of the church. + +To these volumes and to their Editor, who most kindly consented to +revise the proofs of this book, the present writer is very deeply +indebted. He has also had recourse to an article by Sir G. Gilbert +Scott, R.A., in vol. xxxi. of the _Archaeological Journal_; to the same +Author's _Recollections_; to several articles on the Saxon Crypt, duly +specified on pp. 76, 77; to the Guides, by J. R. Walbran, F.S.A., +published by Mr. Harrison of Ripon; to Mr. Murray's _Cathedrals_; to the +volume by the Ven. Archdeacon Danks in Messrs. Isbister's Cathedral +Series; to _A Day in the City of Ripon_, by Mr. George Parker of Ripon; +to the old Guides by Farrer and Gent respectively; and to other works of +a more general character. + +His sincere thanks are also due to the Right Rev. the Bishop of Ripon +for permission to consult the library at the Palace; to the Very Rev. +the Dean for privileges granted in connection with the library in the +Cathedral and with the Cathedral itself; to the Ven. the Archdeacon of +Ripon and the Ven. the Archdeacon of Richmond for their courteous +assistance on several occasions; to Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite, V.P.S.A., +Mr. W. H. St. John Hope, Mrs. Swire, the Rev. H. A. Wilson, Fellow of +Magdalen College, the Rev. G. W. Garrod, and Mr. John Whitham for +valuable information on various points, historical and architectural; to +Mr. Ronald P. Jones for his excellent photographs, to the Archaeological +Institute and other learned Societies for various other illustrations, +and to the Rev. E. H. Swann, the Rev. J. Beanland, Capt. E. J. Warre +Slade, R.N., Mr. F. Forbes Glennie, Mr. T. Wall, Mr. Watson, and others +for similar assistance. + +He desires also to express his thanks to Mr. E. W. Winser, Dean's +Verger, for much valuable local information; to Mr. Henry Williams, +Canons' Verger, for expert advice on points of masonry; and to both, as +well as to the Sexton, for that general assistance which they so +willingly rendered him throughout his investigation of the Fabric. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + CHAPTER I.--HISTORY OF THE CHURCH 3 + + CHAPTER II.--THE EXTERIOR 39 + + CHAPTER III.--THE INTERIOR 65 + + CHAPTER IV.--OTHER OLD BUILDINGS IN RIPON 133 + + APPENDIX-- + Abbots of the Monastery of Ripon 142 + Canons of Stanwick 142 + Deans of King James I. Foundation 143 + Deans of the Cathedral Foundation 143 + Bishops of Ripon 143 + + INDEX 145 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + PAGE + Ripon Cathedral from the Footbridge over the Skel _Frontispiece_ + Arms of the See _Title Page_ + The Nave, South Side 2 + View from the South-West 3 + Early Apsidal Chapel with Later Chapel superimposed 13 + The West Front before Restoration 17 + Mediaeval Seals (3) 20 + Ripon Minster Anterior to 1660 (from an old Engraving) 32 + The Cathedral from the South-East 38 + The West Doorways 39 + View from the North-West 42 + Doorway, North Transept 47 + Doorway, South Transept 52 + Reconstructed Angle of the Great Tower 57 + Flying Buttresses, South Side of Choir 59 + The East End 61 + The North-Western Portion of the Nave 64 + Conjectural View of the Interior of Archbishop Roger's + Nave (by Sir G. G. Scott) 65 + Conjectural Plan of Archbishop Roger's Church + (by Sir G. G. Scott) 67 + The Nave, looking Westward 70 + Plan of Saxon Crypt 72 + The Saxon Crypt 73 + Conjectural Plan of St. Wilfrid's Crypt and Presbytery + (by Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite) 77 + The Two Fonts 79 + Bas-Relief in the South Aisle of the Nave 80 + The Western Arch of the Central Tower 83 + The North Transept 87 + Vault of North Transept Aisle 91 + The Rood Screen 95 + The Great East Window 97 + Bay of Archbishop Roger's Choir (by Sir G. G. Scott) 98 + Decorated Capital in the Choir 99 + The North Side of the Choir 100 + Bosses from the Choir-Vault (2) 103 + The Sedilia 105 + Choir Stalls 107 + Misereres 108 + Desk-End of Mayor's Stall 109 + Finial in front of the Bishop's Throne 110 + The West End of the Choir 112 + The North Choir Aisle 113 + Transitional Vaulting Corbel 114 + The Norman Crypt 118 + The Chapter-House 122 + Ancient Sculptures in the Chapter-House 124 + The Library 130 + The Old Chapel, St. Mary Magdalene's Hospital 132 + Chapel of St. Anne's Hospital 135 + Seal of St. Mary Magdalene's Hospital 138 + + PLAN OF THE CATHEDRAL _at end_ + + + [Illustration: THE NAVE--SOUTH SIDE. + (Showing junction of Transitional and Perpendicular work in the + Tower.)] + + + + + + [Illustration: VIEW FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.] + + +RIPON CATHEDRAL. + + +CHAPTER I. + +HISTORY OF THE CHURCH. + + +There is evidence that the neighbourhood of Ripon was inhabited during, +and perhaps before, the Roman occupation of Britain. Whether the place +was a settlement of the Romans is uncertain; but it was assuredly in +touch with their civilization, for several of their roads passed near +it--notably Watling Street, on which, six miles to the east, was +Isurium, the modern Aldborough; while imperial coins and other Roman +objects have been dug up in Ripon itself. It is not known whether the +Romans imparted to the local tribes of the Brigantes their own +Christianity; but two centuries after the withdrawal of the legions the +greater part of what is now Yorkshire was absorbed by the invading +Angles into their kingdom of Deira, which had itself been united with +the more northern kingdom of Bernicia to form the single realm of +Northumbria. Deira, however, seems to have retained its own +individuality. About the year 627 King Eadwine of Northumbria was +converted to Christianity by Paulinus, and the majority of his Deiran +subjects followed his example. + +=The Scottish Monastery.=--It is in the middle of the seventh century that +the recorded history of Ripon begins. Deira was then ruled by Prince +Alchfrith of Northumbria under his father, King Oswiu, nephew of +Eadwine, and Bede, writing not eighty years after the event, relates +that the prince chose Ripon for the site of a monastery. The date may be +fixed in or just before the year 657. This monastery was one of those +numerous religious colonies which were the result not only of the new +Christian fervour, but also of a reaction from war toward social life +and industry. It did not represent the Roman Christianity of Augustine +which Paulinus had introduced into Deira from Canterbury, but the +Christianity which had come from Ireland through St. Columba's +missionary college at Iona, and which was now predominant throughout the +north. The monks of Ripon were brought from Melrose Abbey on the Tweed. +Like most monks of that early period, they probably followed no definite +Rule. Their abbot was Eata, a pupil of St. Aidan, and previously Abbot +of Melrose and Lindisfarne, while the guest-master was no less a person +than Cuthbert, the legend of whose having entertained an angel unawares +at Ripon added, no doubt, to the growing reputation of the house. + +Its tranquillity, however, was not to last. The Roman party in the +Northumbrian Church, though inconsiderable, was gaining force, and +Alchfrith, deserting his former convictions, gave the new monastery, +with an endowment of thirty or forty hides of land, as Bede relates, to +one who had visited Rome, and who regarded the Irish (or, as it was +called by that time, the Scottish) Church as schismatical. + +The life of =St. Wilfrid of Ripon=--so full of adventure, misfortune, and +lasting achievement--can only be related here in so far as it bears upon +the story of this, his favourite monastery. It was in 661 that the +transference from Eata to Wilfrid took place, and at once the Scottish +monks, refusing to conform to Roman usages, left Ripon in a body. It is +probable that Wilfrid imposed upon their successors the Benedictine +Rule, which he had studied at Rome. The new Abbot was not yet in +priest's orders, but was presently ordained at Ripon by Agilbert, the +Frankish Bishop of Wessex. In 664 he took the action for which he is +especially remembered in English history. Appearing at the Synod of +Whitby, he prevailed upon King Oswiu to throw in his lot with the Roman +party, and was thus the means indirectly of preventing the isolation of +the England of that time from the Church and civilization of the +Continent. Almost immediately afterwards Abbot Wilfrid became Bishop of +Northumbria, and this tenure of the two offices by the same person was +perhaps the origin of the subsequent connection of Ripon with the +Archbishops of York.[1] Wilfrid insisted on going to be consecrated by +Agilbert, who was now Bishop of Paris, and so long did he remain abroad +that on his return in 666 he found another bishop, Chad (afterwards St. +Chad of Lichfield), in possession of the see. He therefore retired to +Ripon for three years, during which, however, he visited Mercia and also +Kent, where he met Aedde, or Eddius, who became his chaplain and +biographer. + +=The Saxon Monastery.=--In 669 Wilfrid was restored to his see by +Theodore, Archbishop of Canterbury, and soon afterwards began to build +at Ripon. The Scottish monastery, which was probably of wood, is thought +to have occupied a site between Priest Lane, Stonebridgegate,[2] and a +nameless road which connects them. Wilfrid now abandoned it, and erected +upon a new site a more imposing monastery of stone.[3] The practice of +building in stone seems to have become uncommon in Britain after the +departure of the Romans, and Wilfrid is thought to have employed foreign +workmen, perhaps Italians.[4] His church is described by Eddius, +himself now a Ripon monk, as "of smoothed stone from base to summit, and +supported on various columns and (?) arcades (_porticibus_)," and was +doubtless of that Italian type which had become identified in Britain +with the Roman party in the Church, as opposed to the Scottish mission. +The Scottish type of church consisted of a small aisle-less nave and +square chancel: the Italian type generally had aisles, and the altar was +usually raised upon a platform, beneath which was a crypt called +_confessio_. A little later than 670 A.D. Wilfrid's new minster was +solemnly dedicated by him in honour of St. Peter, in the presence of a +great concourse of clergy and nobles, headed by the King of Northumbria, +Ecgfrith, the successor of Oswiu. The endowments seem to have included +at this time certain lands round Ripon which had belonged to the British +Church before the coming of the Angles, and to have been now increased +by grants--some as far distant as Lancashire--made by the great men +present at the ceremony. Wilfrid himself gave a splendid copy of the +Gospels, written in gold upon purple vellum, the beginning perhaps of a +library.[5] The feasting was kept up for three days--indeed, no +monastery could have had for its church a more striking dedication. And +for the next seven years Ripon must have shared the importance of the +Abbot-Bishop, whose state rivalled that of the king. By persuading the +queen to become a nun, however, he presently lost the royal favour; +while the great size of the diocese, which extended at last from the +Forth to the Wash, prevented the achievement of complete success in his +episcopal work. + +As yet the see of Canterbury was the sole archbishopric, and in 678 +Archbishop Theodore--already known as an organizer of the +episcopate--was invited to the court of Northumbria. With Ecgfrith's +approval, but without consulting Wilfrid, he divided the diocese into +the three sees of Hexham, York, and Lindsey, answering respectively to +the tribal divisions Bernicia, Deira, and the land of the Lindiswaras +(Lincolnshire). Wise though this action was, it was naturally resented +by Wilfrid, who appealed to the Pope--the first appeal of the kind ever +made by an Englishman--and set out himself for Rome. He was destined not +to return till 680, and even then to be kept out of his bishopric till +686. Ripon was now in the new diocese of York, but in 681 Theodore +constituted yet another diocese, of which he made Ripon the cathedral +town. + +Of =Eadhead, First Bishop of Ripon= (681-686), little is known. Originally +a priest at the court of Oswiu, he had accompanied the intruded bishop, +Chad, when the latter sought consecration at Canterbury during Wilfrid's +absence for consecration in Gaul. Eadhead had afterwards been appointed +by Theodore to the see of Lindsey, and was translated thence to Ripon +when Lindsey was recovered by the Mercians. + +His tenure of his new office lasted for five years only, for in 686 +Aldfrith, the successor of Ecgfrith, restored Wilfrid--not indeed to his +original bishopric of Northumbria, but to a see which combined the +lately-formed dioceses of Ripon and York[6]. Eadhead accordingly +retired, and there were no more Bishops of Ripon for twelve centuries. + +To Wilfrid was restored not only his bishopric, but also his monastery +of Ripon, which he retained in peace for the next five years. At the end +of that time a long dispute arose with Aldfrith, who was veering back to +the diocesan partition of Theodore, and Wilfrid, deprived of his see for +the third time, crossed over into Mercia. In 703 a synod was held at +Austerfield, the King and Berhtwald, Archbishop of Canterbury, being +present, when Wilfrid was actually asked to promise that he would cease +to act as bishop, that he would accept the partition of Theodore, and +that he would retire to Ripon and not leave the monastery without the +king's permission. + +Though he was now a man of seventy, he set out once more for Rome, and +this time as before the Pope decided in his favour. Returning to Ripon +in 705, he attempted to conciliate Aldfrith's successor Eadwulf, but in +vain. In the same year, however, Eadwulf was succeeded by Osred, and +presently another synod was held, this time at Nidd, seven miles south +of Ripon, when it was decided, in the presence of Osred and the now +relenting Berhtwald, that Wilfrid should have the monastery and see of +Hexham (resigning York) and the monastery of Ripon, thus restored to him +for the second time. + +In 709 he received a call to Mercia, which had already twice received +him in his adversity, and in which he had accepted the bishopric of +Leicester. Immediately before his departure he was at Ripon, where he +kept his treasure, and having a presentiment that he would never return, +he bequeathed a portion of his wealth to the monastery, appointed +Tatberht to succeed him as Abbot, and took an affecting farewell of the +whole community. Arriving at his monastery of Oundle, in +Northamptonshire, he was seized with illness, and died there on October +12 in the seventy-sixth year of his age. The body was placed on a car +and carried in solemn procession to Ripon, where it was buried on the +south side of the high altar in his own minster. + +In 710 the anniversary of his death was kept at Ripon with great +solemnity, and out of such commemorations, probably, arose the feast of +his _Depositio_,[7] which was afterwards kept on every 12th of October. +According to Eddius a remarkable phenomenon occurred on this occasion. +In the evening the monastery was suddenly encircled with brilliant +light, as of day, and whether this was a display of Northern Lights or +not, it was regarded as a Divine testimony to the sanctity of Wilfrid. +The story shows, at any rate, that he was already beginning to be +regarded as a saint, and it was probably about this time that his name +was coupled with St. Peter's in the dedication of the Church. Miracles +were worked at his tomb, and it became an object of pilgrimage; but +little is known of the period immediately succeeding his death, save +that the dwellers around Ripon (as a twelfth century writer, Eadmer, +represents) first encouraged the cult of the saint, then became +disgusted at the crowds it drew, and finally endeavoured to check it +altogether. Wilfrid was succeeded in the abbacy by Tatberht, and history +has recorded the names of three more abbots who followed each other +toward the end of the eighth century, Botwine, Alberht, Sigred; and of +one of uncertain date, Uilden or Wildeng.[8] In 791 a noble named +Eardwulf, who had plotted against Ethelred, then King of Northumbria, +was put to death (as it was thought) at the monastery gate by the king's +orders. The monks carried him 'with Gregorian chantings' to the +precincts of the church, where they laid him out, but after midnight he +was found within the building--a recovery which was regarded as +miraculous. + +Ripon did not escape the violence of the Danes. It is thought that about +the year 860 they burned the town and did some damage to the church, and +the remarkable mound known as =Ailcy Hill=,[9] near the Canons' Residence, +and due east of the Cathedral, is probably a relic of some battle of +this period. In the street-names too, all ending in 'gate' (which in the +sense of 'way' is a Danish word), another trace may perhaps be found of +their presence, as well as of the existence of a town at this early +period. The town probably grew up around the monastery. It has been +believed that a civic charter was granted by King Alfred in 886; but +this is impossible, even if such charters were ever granted at this +time, for Alfred had resigned all this part of England (which since +about 839 had owned the overlordship of Wessex) to the Danes in 878. + +One of the great events in Ripon history is the visit of Alfred's +grandson =King Athelstan=. Yorkshire had lately been a separate Danish +kingdom, but it passed under the direct rule of Wessex in 926, and it +was either in that year that Athelstan came, or in 937, when he defeated +the Scots and other northern rebels at Brunanburh. It was to this king +that the church afterwards referred the grant of its most important +privileges. Among these was that of =sanctuary=, by which homicides, +thieves, debtors, etc., could flee to Ripon and live there under the +protection of St. Wilfrid for a specified time. The area within which +they were protected extended one mile from the church in every +direction, and the limit was marked by eight crosses, the base of one of +which is still to be seen on the Sharow Road. The penalties for +molesting refugees were afterwards graduated as follows:--between the +limit and the graveyard wall, L18; within the graveyard, L36; within the +choir (where the pursued sought the last possible refuge at the +'grythstool,' or chair of sanctuary), confiscation of goods and possible +death. Those who took sanctuary were called 'gyrthmen' or 'grythmen' +(from the Anglo-Saxon 'gryth' 'peace'), and undertook, among other +things, to carry the banners before the relics of St. Wilfrid in certain +processions. They were under the spiritual charge of a 'gryth-priest.' +The protection of the outer sanctuary can hardly have been extended to +Ripon men, as theoretically the whole town could then have committed +crimes with impunity, and practically the criminals would not have been +safe from their fellow-townsmen. Ripon debtors did indeed enjoy +protection here at Rogation-tide, but as a rule men of Ripon would seek +sanctuary at Durham or Beverley. Athelstan is also said to have granted +to the church a jurisdiction over its lands independent alike of the +northern archbishop and of the king, with the right to inflict the +ordeals of fire and water, and with exemption from taking oaths, from +taxation, and from military service.[10] Of the two charters in which +these grants are set forth, one is, indeed of the eleventh or twelfth, +and the other of the thirteenth century, but Athelstan may at any rate +have done something to give rise to the tradition, though it is +impossible to tell exactly what. The story of his having given the manor +to the see of York is doubtless misleading. The territorial sway of the +Archbishop at Ripon must be of earlier origin, and it may even have +arisen out of the grant of the monastery with its thirty or forty hides +of land to Wilfrid and his retention of them after his elevation to the +see of Northumbria. + +The connection of the monastery with the Archbishop is illustrated in +the reign of Athelstan's brother Eadred, when Archbishop Wulfstan, by +aiding a rebellion for the purpose of again setting up a Danish king at +York, drew down the royal anger upon Ripon. In 948 (or 950, according to +one authority) Eadred harried Northumbria, and then, says the Worcester +Chronicle, "was that famed minster burned at Ripon, which St. Wilfrid +built." Wulfstan himself was deprived and imprisoned. + +About two years later the half-ruined and deserted church was visited +(the see of York being vacant) by Oda, Archbishop of Canterbury. There +was a tradition in the sixteenth century that he rebuilt it, but his +visit is also memorable for another tradition, namely, that he +translated the bones of St. Wilfrid to Canterbury. Hence arose a fierce +dispute between Canterbury and Ripon, each claiming that it possessed +the body of the Saint. The claim of Canterbury, which is accepted to +this day by the Church of Rome, is supported by the assertion of Oda +himself, and by several subsequent chroniclers, one of whom, however, +attributes the translation to St. Dunstan, while another goes so far as +to concede that Oda left a portion of the bones behind. But Ripon always +maintained that it possessed the whole, and that the relics removed had +been those of Wilfrid II. (Archbishop of York, 718-732). According to +the contemporary biographer of Oswald (Archbishop of York, 972-992) the +bones of the Saint were at Ripon in the tenth century, and Oswald +solemnly enshrined them--whence that feast of St. Wilfrid's translation +which was afterwards kept on the 24th of April; and a later chronicler +speaks of "the body of the blessed Wilfrid" as being at Ripon in the +reign of Stephen. The claim of Canterbury was forgotten for a time in +the glories of St. Thomas a Becket, while that of Ripon became more or +less established in the north. In 1224 Archbishop de Gray, who +translated the alleged relics at Ripon to a more splendid shrine, +declared that he had found the skeleton complete. In the fifteenth +century Henry V. himself writes to Ripon of his reverence for "St. +Wilfrid, buried in the said church." In the sixteenth, Leland, while +recording a common opinion that Oda rebuilt the minster, makes no +mention of any removal of the relics. The controversy will perhaps never +be decided definitely, but it is interesting in view of the cult of St. +Wilfrid at Ripon in the middle ages. + +The account of the enshrinement of the relics by Oswald has been thought +to imply that it was he who rebuilt the monastery, and that he filled it +again with monks. Whether it was rebuilt by Oda or Oswald, the body of +St. Cuthbert rested here in 995 on its way from Chester-le-Street to +Durham. From this point onwards, however, no more is heard of monks at +Ripon, and it may be interesting to recall here the part which this +monastery had played in the history of the Church. Its first abbot, +Eata, had become Bishop of Hexham and of Lindisfarne. It had been for a +time the home of St. Cuthbert. Under Wilfrid, Ceolfrith, one of its +monks, had become Abbot of Wearmouth, and another, AEthelwald, had +carried on Cuthbert's work in the Farne Islands. In accepting and +treasuring the staff of St. Columba, the Ripon of Wilfrid had forgotten +something of its hostility to the Scottish mission. Through Wilfrid, +Ripon had been connected with the founding of other monasteries, Hexham, +Selsey, Lichfield, Oundle. Through his labours, again, and those of St. +Willibrord, another of its monks, it had become known as a great centre +of missionary work. Wilfrid had strengthened Christianity in Mercia and +Kent, and may claim to have introduced it into Sussex and the Isle of +Wight. Abroad he had carried the Gospel to the Frisians, and his work +among them was splendidly completed by Willibrord, who became Archbishop +of Utrecht.[11] + +=The College of Secular Canons.=--From 995 to the Conquest, the history of +Ripon is almost a blank. During that time the monastery, by a reversal +of the more usual process, became converted into a college of secular +canons, but nothing is known of the manner in which the change was +effected. The last Saxon Archbishop of York, Ealdred, who crowned both +Harold and the Conqueror, is said to have founded prebends--perhaps +giving lands out of his manor, and the Canons of Ripon duly appear in +Domesday Book (1085-6). In 1070 the Conqueror, to whom the north had +given much difficulty, ordered the Vale of York to be harried. Ripon +suffered severely, and in Domesday Book the surrounding lands are +recorded as "waste." The minster probably shared in the general wreck. + +What happened to it in the succeeding period is not definitely known. It +may have been entirely rebuilt, as most great Saxon churches were after +the Conquest, or it may have been rebuilt partially, or merely enlarged. +That something was done is proved by the existence south of the choir +of some Norman work which has been attributed to the first Norman +Archbishop, Thomas of Bayeux (1070-1100), or to Archbishop Thurstan +(1114-1141). + + [Illustration: EARLY APSIDAL CHAPEL WITH LATER CHAPEL SUPERIMPOSED.] + +The former died at Ripon. Indeed, the Archbishops had been in the habit +of residing here since the end of the tenth century, and they duly +appear in Domesday Book as lords of the manor, of which the canons' land +is apparently treated as a part. It is worthy of note that Domesday Book +records also the 'soc' jurisdiction and freedom from taxation which are +mentioned in the 'Athelstan' charters. The exemption also from the +king's officers which is set forth in the same charters, was proved in +1106, when an attempted invasion of the liberties of the Church by the +Sheriff of York was successfully resisted by Archbishop Gerard before +arbitrators appointed by Henry I. This king also exempted the lands of +Ripon from castle-building, and granted to the Canons and the Archbishop +a fair at the feast of St. Wilfrid's translation (April 24th). In the +next century fairs were also claimed for the feast of his _Depositio_ +(October 12th), and for the feasts of St. Michael and of the Finding of +the Holy Cross. + +=Archbishop Thomas II.= (1109-1114) founded the =Hospital of St. John the +Baptist=, and another Hospital, that =of St. Mary Magdalen=, of which the +chapel remains, was founded by his successor, =Archbishop Thurstan= +(1114-1141). Both these Hospitals were affiliated to the Church, and the +masterships were in the gift of the Archbishop. St. John's afforded +shelter to poor travellers who came in through the forest which then +adjoined the town. When the forest was cleared, the endowment provided +exhibitions for a few poor boys, who lived here while they pursued their +studies in "grammar" (perhaps at the Grammar School), with a view to +becoming clerks. The two hospitals, and a third which was founded later, +were placed at three of the principal entrances to the town, with the +express intention, perhaps, of assisting the pilgrims who resorted to +the shrine of St. Wilfrid. + +Thurstan added one more canon to the staff by founding the prebend of +Sharow. He may also be called the founder of Fountains Abbey, which was +built on land assigned by him out of his domain of Ripon. + +In the troubles of the reign of Stephen, Ripon took no small share. When +the Scots descended into Yorkshire, nominally to aid the Empress Maud, +Thurstan sent against them all the levies which an archbishop, as a +feudal baron, could muster, including doubtless the men of his manor of +Ripon, and the victory which they won near Northallerton in 1138 is +known as the Battle of the Standard, from the banners of the three +mother-churches--Ripon, York, and Beverley--which waved over the English +army. Ripon was soon to experience the anarchy which prevailed toward +the end of the war. In 1140 Alan, Earl of Richmond, entrenched himself +on a neighbouring hill and grievously oppressed the town and its +inhabitants. Led by him, the large landholders in the neighbourhood +broke open the storehouses and granaries of the archbishop, and in 1143 +Earl Alan himself burst into the church with an armed band and attacked +Archbishop William Fitzherbert (afterwards St. William of York), who was +standing by St. Wilfrid's shrine. The Archbishop's offence may have been +that he was the king's nephew. At any rate he was detested by the +Cistercians, who were strongly represented here by Fountains Abbey, and +Ripon seems to have sided with them, for in 1148, when Archbishop +William was temporarily deprived of his office, it was to Ripon that his +supplanter, Archbishop Murdac, retired when he durst not enter York. +Stephen confirmed to the College all the privileges granted by his +predecessors. + +=Building of the Present Church.=--The reign of Henry II. is marked by +another rebuilding of the church. William was succeeded in 1154 (the +year of the king's accession) by =Archbishop Roger de Pont l'Eveque= +(1154-1181). This prelate is known in politics for his opposition to +Thomas a Becket, and in art for his prominent share in the development +of our national architecture. There is perhaps no more important example +of the transition from the Norman to the Early English style than his +work at Ripon. With the exception of the crypt under the present +crossing, and of some Norman work south of the present choir, he rebuilt +the whole church, and history has recorded the wording of a deed in +which he gives "L1000 of the old coinage for the building of the +basilica ... which we have begun afresh."[12] Roger's church was a +cruciform building, and its nave had no aisles. A great portion of his +work remains--the two transepts, half of the central tower, and +portions of the nave and choir. The plan (see below, p. 67) was typical +of the early history of the place and of its subsequent conversion from +a monastery into a college of secular canons; for the aisleless +cruciform arrangement in churches was developed from a combination of +the Scottish type with the Roman or basilican, and the absence of aisles +was, or rather had been at a slightly earlier period, the recognized +mark of a secular as opposed to a monastic church. In giving aisles to +the choir Roger's plan was singular, for it was not usual for a choir to +have aisles when the nave had none. Except by the addition of +nave-aisles, the dimensions of his plan (as Walbran remarked) have not +been materially exceeded; and Ripon is an example of the size to which +churches of canons often attained, in spite of the fact that their plan +was generally that of a mere parish church. + +The next archbishop, Geoffrey Plantagenet, was often in disagreement +with his brothers, Richard I. and John, but the manor of Ripon is said +to have been the only portion of his temporalities of which the latter +king did not deprive him. + +After Geoffrey's death the see was vacant for nine years until 1216, the +year of the accession of Henry III., when it was given to =Archbishop +Walter de Gray= (1216-1255). In the same year 'spiritual fraternity' was +formally concluded between Ripon and Fountains; and a somewhat similar +arrangement was made a little later with Southwell, which since Henry I. +had shared with Ripon and Beverley the dignity of a mother-church or +pro-cathedral in the diocese of York. In 1224, at the request of the +Canons, Archbishop de Gray translated the relics of St. Wilfrid (if such +they were) to a new shrine, enshrining the head separately in such a way +that it was exposed to view. He also granted an indulgence of thirty +days to all who should make pilgrimage to the saint's new resting-place. +This second translation never became a feast, but it doubtless +stimulated the cult of St. Wilfrid afresh, and probably brought +considerable profit to the Church. + +A few years later, at any rate, an important alteration was made in the +fabric, by the building of the present west front with its two flanking +towers, and the tall wooden and lead-covered spires which once crowned +the latter and the central tower were probably erected at this period. + +In 1230, the Archbishop founded a seventh prebend--that of Stanwick; +and in 1241 sanctioned the addition of the parish of Nidd to the common +property of the College. + + [Illustration: THE WEST FRONT BEFORE SIR G. G. SCOTT'S RESTORATION. + (From an old print, by the kind permission of the Ripon Museum.)] + +As yet, most of the prebends were distinguished by the names of the +Canons who held them, or of Saints; and it was not till 1301 that they +were named after the principal hamlet or township in each--Stanwick, +Monkton, Givendale, Sharow, Nunwick, Studley, Thorp. They were all in +the neighbourhood except Stanwick, which was in the North Riding, near +Richmond. The Church was (as it still is) parochial as well as +collegiate. Each prebend carried with it a cure of souls, yet all +(except Stanwick) were included in the huge parish of Ripon, which +extended to Pateley Bridge, and in 1300 had a radius of nine or ten +miles. Thus the collegiate establishment differed from the usual type in +which each prebend was a separate parish with a church of its own. +Moreover, there was neither Dean nor Chancellor. The Canons may at first +have lived in common, but as early as 1301, and probably earlier, they +were dwelling in separate prebendal houses round the Church. There is no +evidence that they ever resided on their prebends, except in the case of +the Canon of Sharow, whose residence was at that place. The canonries, +having been founded by Archbishops of York, were in the gift of the see, +or of the Crown when the see was vacant. The Canon of Stanwick was _ex +officio_ Ruler of the Choir, whence his obligation to reside in Ripon in +spite of the remoteness of his prebend, which was served by a vicar. +Similarly the Canon of Monkton was always Treasurer, and had charge of +the Chapter-house, the ornaments and plate, and the High Altar. + +The revenues of the church may be divided as usual under three heads. +There was a Common Fund, arising from certain rents, tithes, fees, and +oblations; a survival perhaps of a time when the Canons lived in common. +Secondly, there were the revenues drawn by the Canons from their +respective prebends, and consisting partly of rents, but chiefly of +tithes. The prebend of Stanwick was worth about twice as much as any +other. Thirdly, there was the Fabric Fund, arising from certain rents, +oblations,[13] and licences, from the profits of St. Wilfrid's +burning-iron (with which cattle were branded to keep off murrain),[14] +and, in later days, of the pok-stone (which was probably regarded as in +some way a preventive against the 'pokkes' of sheep and cattle); but +especially from the farm of indulgences. When much building was in +progress the Canons' incomes were afterwards specially taxed, and once +or twice Peter's-pence were actually withheld from the Pope and devoted +to architectural purposes. + +At the time of Archbishop de Gray, the old and somewhat vague +jurisdictions in and about Ripon had become more distinct. The parish +was a Peculiar,[15] and as such was exempt from the authority of the +Archdeacon of Richmond, either by tradition from the days when the +church was a monastery, or because of the presence here of the +Archbishops. Over this Peculiar (the laity included) the Chapter +exercised the spiritual jurisdiction of an archdeacon's court, assisted +by the Rural Dean of Ripon, who sat as 'Dean of Christianity.' This +'Court Christian' dealt with testamentary and matrimonial cases, cases +of defamation, immorality, neglect of religious duties, etc. Accused +persons cleared themselves by compurgation, or underwent penalties +(commutable, however), such as being beaten, walking barefoot in the +processions, suspension _ab ingressu ecclesiae_, or excommunication.[16] +Lesser offences were dealt with by an archbishop's officer called +_penitentiarius_, who heard confessions and enjoined penances. The +Archbishop was Ordinary of the Peculiar. He held visitations in the +Chapter-house, and could order repairs of buildings, make statutes (in +consultation with the Chapter) for the College, and sequestrate its +revenues. He also exercised authority over offending Canons and over the +inferior clergy of the staff, though the correction of these belonged +primarily to the Chapter and especially to the Canon of Stanwick. + + [Illustration: MEDIAEVAL SEALS. + 1. Seal of the Mediaeval Chapter. + 2. Capitular Seal "ad causas." + 3. Common Seal of the Vicars.] + +For purposes of secular jurisdiction Ripon, with the lands round it, was +a Liberty, exempt, that is, from the authority of the Sheriff. The +Liberty was almost co-extensive with the Peculiar. Within it were two +secular jurisdictions, that of the Archbishop as lord of the manor, and +that of the Chapter, which embraced the southern half of the town and +many country districts, and which may have originated either with +Ealdred's presumable gifts of land out of the manor to form prebends, or +(as the charters pretend) from a grant of Athelstan, or perhaps from an +original independence enjoyed by the church as a monastery. The Chapter +claimed within their sphere the rights attributed to Athelstan's grant, +and also assize of bread, ale, weights and measures; dues of fairs and +markets; certain feudal dues; power over masterless goods, and to deal +with cases of rent, wrongful detention of land, and theft; _cognitio de +falso judicio_; execution of royal writs; 'sheriff-tourn'; coroners of +their own; in fact the powers of a sheriff and of the justices-in-eyre, +with a prison and the right of gaol-delivery, and even of inflicting +capital punishment. In cases of homicide, however, a king's justice must +sit as assessor. For civil suits there was a provision against 'wager of +battle,' and the accused again cleared themselves by compurgation. +Archbishop de Gray claimed similar privileges, but wished to exercise +them over the whole Liberty, on the ground that the church and its +appurtenances were part of his manor (as indeed they very possibly were, +originally). Unlike Archbishop Gerard, who had supported the church's +privilege against the sheriff, de Gray actually joined the sheriff in +invading it. In 1228 the case came before the king's justices in the +Chapter-house at Ripon, and the decision was for the Chapter. Thus the +division of jurisdictions received from the State an undoubted sanction. +Within his sphere the Archbishop appointed his own justices, but on +arriving at the limits of that sphere, the king's justices sat with them +there on the first day, and were afterwards admitted to sit with them in +the town. The Archbishops claimed also that their commissioners should +administer the oath of obedience at the mile-limit to those who sought +sanctuary. The Archbishops are also said to have had a 'military court,' +probably a feudal institution. + +The memory of de Gray was perhaps held in scant respect at Ripon. He is +accused by Matthew Paris of having refused to distribute his corn during +a famine, and it was through the erection of Bishopthorpe Palace by him +that Ripon ceased to be a favourite provincial residence of the +Archbishops. Nevertheless they still frequently visited the town, both +for sport and duty. They had a park "six miles in compass," and the +fishing in the Ure. The existence, moreover, of a prison here for +criminous clerks made the minster a convenient place for the public +degradations which the Archbishop was obliged to hold from time to time. +On these occasions the offending clerks were brought across to the +church, where the Archbishop in full pontificals would hear their avowal +of guilt in the nave, and then solemnly divest them of their robes and +of their office at the west door. + +In 1270 came the first echo from the outside world since the reign of +Stephen. Prince Edward was setting out on a crusade, and Archbishop +Giffard was compelled to exact from the Chapter a twentieth of their +temporalities. The town had now attained to some importance, and sent +two members to the Model Parliament of 1295. + +As yet the minster of Archbishop Roger had suffered no change in its +main fabric save the rebuilding of the west front, but an alteration was +now to be made at the other extremity also, and the eastern portion of +the choir was rebuilt with all the elaboration of the Decorated style. +Of this work the greater part was probably effected under =Archbishop +John Romanus= (1286-1296). + +In 1293 the almost cathedral rank of the church was marked by the +consecration within its walls of a bishop (of Galloway). It was, as has +been said, the parish church of the huge parish of Ripon. Yet the town +itself possessed at an early period a separate parish church of +Allhallows, a memory of which survives in 'Allhallowgate.'[17] There was +also an old chapel of the Virgin called the 'Lady-kirk,' in +'Stammergate,' and there were chapels at the two hospitals and the +palace. But there were at first few if any places of worship in the +surrounding country, and the most remote of the parishioners had been +obliged to repair Ripon. This state of things led to the erection of +district chapels by the larger landholders under the sanction of the +Chapter, as early as the twelfth century, and of these chapels there +were eventually at least sixteen. + +The parishioners, however, still assembled at Ripon on certain feasts, +notably Christmas, Good Friday, Easter, Ascension, Whitsuntide, and the +feasts of St. Wilfrid's death (October 12th) and translation (April +24th), to which was added later a feast of his nativity, observed on the +Sunday after Lammas Day, and in the parish of Ripon only.[18] On St. +Wilfrid's feasts the privilege of sanctuary was extended beyond the +mile-limit to all who visited the mother-church, and the penalty for +molestation without the limit was L6. On Easter Day all the parishioners +received the Communion in the minster,[19] and on that day, on Christmas +Day, and on the feast of St. Wilfrid's nativity, the district chaplains +attended in their copes. Very picturesque, too, must have been the +miracle-plays at Easter, Christmas, and Epiphany; the great fairs; the +solemn processions, especially at Rogation-tide, when the relics of the +Saint were borne in state by representatives of the greater tenants of +the church, and attended by the sanctuary-men carrying staves with +banners. It is probable that once a year (perhaps at Whitsuntide) the +church was visited by clergy and laity from the whole of that division +of the diocese to which Ripon was the mother-church. Such annual +visitations were the especial privilege of mother-churches, and were a +great source of profit. + +Underneath all this pageantry, however, there was much that was +unsatisfactory in the internal affairs of the college. In the thirteenth +century even more than afterwards, the great difficulty in the working +of secular colleges was non-residence. The Canons were often pluralists, +or foreigners appointed under pressure from the Pope or the king, who +provided in this way for prominent civil servants. A canon would often +leave his prebend in the spiritual charge of a vicar engaged by the +year, or under the administration of a proctor, or would even farm it +out--sometimes to a layman. Sometimes a canon was suspected of being a +layman himself, or a married man. The proctors or lessees dismissed or +appointed vicars at their pleasure. The prebendal houses fell into +disrepair, and in some cases a plot had been assigned, but no house had +been built. Some canons at this period resigned their stalls after an +extremely short tenure, or changed from one stall to another. + +=Archbishop Thomas de Corbridge= (1299-1303) addressed himself to the +reform of these evils. He ordered the Canons to look to their prebendal +houses. He tried to control their acceptance of benefices in plurality. +He forbade them to farm their prebends to any but brother-canons except +with his licence. It was he who gave the prebends their territorial +names. Most important of all, he decreed in 1303 that the cure of souls +in each prebend was to be entrusted to a vicar-perpetual. The collegiate +system was indeed breaking down, and the Vicars henceforth were almost +as important a body as the Canons, whom they relieved of all +responsibility for the parochial work and the performance of the +services. Except the Vicar of Stanwick, they all lived at Ripon, and in +1304 one Nicholas de Bondgate provided them with a common residence, +which became known as the Bedern[20] (whence 'Bedern Bank'). The office +of _penitentiarius_ or of rural dean was often held by one of them. +Besides the seven Canons and the six Vicars in Ripon, there were three +deacons, three sub-deacons, six thuriblers, and six choristers, and the +full officiating staff thus amounted to thirty-one, exclusive of the +chantry priests, of whom, however, there were as yet but few. + +The successor of Archbishop de Corbridge was an ex-Canon of Ripon, +=William Greenfield= (=Archbishop= 1304-1315). He rebuilt the chapel of the +Palace and founded a chantry in it. It was at Ripon that he put forth, +with additions of his own, certain rules against clerical abuses which +he had borrowed from the diocese of Chichester. He found indeed much to +reform. Already the vicariate was becoming demoralized. Vicars and +inferior clergy were addicted to shows and sports, to dances and +stage-plays. A chaplain invented a gambling game called "ding-thrifts." +What wonder that the laity, then, begged at the altars under pretence of +being proctors of absent canons, or intruded into the choir during +service--a privilege reserved for the great? And another privilege of +rank had been invaded also, for the Archbishop had to direct that only +great persons and benefactors were to be buried within the minster. In +1310 two women fought in the graveyard so savagely that it had to be +reconsecrated. In his last year the Archbishop had to restrain the +proctors of absent canons from acting independently in the +administration of the prebends, and from exercising capitular authority. + +These internal difficulties, however, were presently forgotten in a new +danger from without. Already, in 1298, Archbishop de Newark had called +upon the Chapter to assist in providing cavalry for Edward I.'s campaign +against John Balliol, King of Scots. The King himself is said to have +visited the town in 1300. In 1315 the Chapter had sent a representative +to a council held by Archbishop Greenfield at Doncaster to consider the +defence of the realm. Since Bannockburn the Scots had been raiding the +northern counties, and in 1316 Edward II. ordered Ripon to provide +maintenance for Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, who was to pass +through on his way to check the raids. In March 1318 the town sent a +contingent to the King's forces, and the money, together with a banner +of St. Wilfrid, was provided by =Archbishop William de Melton= +(1317-1340). In May of the same year the Scots descended upon Ripon +itself. They might have spared the place, for in 1297 it had been the +temporary home of the mother of Robert Bruce, now King of Scotland, but +no consideration was shown. As there were no town walls, the inhabitants +fled to the minster and fortified it. For three days their homes were +given over to plunder, and the enemy demanded one thousand marks as the +price of a promise not to burn the town altogether. Even the Archbishop +urged the townsmen to pay this blackmail lest further damage should be +done, but such a sum could not be raised in a moment, and during either +this or a subsequent visit the Scots did much damage to the church. The +prebends suffered to the extent of over 150 marks, and the hospitals +were much crippled. Nor was any satisfaction to be had, save by solemnly +excommunicating the enemy on Sundays and festivals. It was probably in +consequence of the havoc wrought that in 1322 Parliament, which had been +summoned to meet at Ripon, met at York instead. + +Thrice again after 1318 were forces levied in the Liberty against the +Scots--in 1327, in 1333, and in 1342, when Edward III. even offered +pardon to the sanctuary-men if they would serve. + +Meanwhile Archbishop de Melton had been promoting the repair of the +minster, a task which included probably the renewal of the spires, the +roof, the stained glass, and the woodwork. In 1331-2 he issued some +important statutes for the College. Hitherto each Canon (except the +Canon of Stanwick) had received an annual dividend out of the Common +Fund. Of this fund, a large portion which had always gone to furnish +these dividends (or a part of them) was now appropriated exclusively to +canons willing to reside. Thus a premium was put upon residence, which +was fixed at twelve weeks in the year (not necessarily continuous), and +a distinction was admitted between resident and non-resident canons. +Again, the Common Fund was now to be charged with the salaries of the +Vicars, who had hitherto been precariously paid by the Canons their +masters. + +=Archbishop John de Thoresby= (1352-1373) added to the prebend of Studley +the two districts of Dacre and Bewerley, and it was probably about this +time that the Lady-chapel (now the Library) was built. In 1375 some part +of the church was burnt, and in 1396-7 the central spire seems to have +been rebuilt. The town had now recovered its prosperity, for in 1405 it +became the residence of the Court, when King Henry IV. was driven from +Westminster by a plague. The next reign is marked by an improvement in +the status of the Vicars. They had been living dispersed over the +town,--indeed, their common residence or Bedern is said to have been +destroyed by the Scots. + +In 1415, therefore, =Archbishop Henry Bowet= (1407-1423), having obtained +from Henry V. a charter with a dispensation of the Statute of Mortmain, +gave a site out of his manor for a new Bedern; and the vicars +themselves, who at this period are commended by both the Archbishop and +the King, were at the same time formed into a corporate body having a +common seal, and were allowed to elect from their number a Provost. +Under this Archbishop there were several instances of canons exchanging +their stalls for other benefices. The discipline of the staff seems to +have become exceedingly lax by 1439. The church music was neglected. +The Mass of Our Lady was not said regularly in the Lady-chapel. The +inferior clergy did not study for their examinations, and wore daggers +in the Choir. They and the vicars frequented taverns, walked about the +nave during service, and absented themselves without leave. The Canons +did not attend church in their habits, and the clergy generally indulged +in field sports. + +=Archbishop John Kemp= (1426-1452) did what he could to reform these +abuses, and effected some improvement (the nature of which is not clear) +in the status of the Vicars, who had been badly treated by the Chapter +in financial matters. Later in this century a chantry chaplain is found +engaging in dishonest trade; priests fight; laymen assault one another +in the minster during service. But mediaeval morality in general must not +be condemned, of course, for a few recorded crimes. + +About 1450 the south-east corner of the central tower gave way, and so +unsafe was the church that service had to be held in the Lady-kirk. In +consequence of this disaster the Canons were obliged to rebuild not only +the south and east sides of the tower, but also the east side of the +south transept, and eventually part of the south side of the Choir; and +it is evident that they would have rebuilt the two remaining sides of +the tower, had they not been prevented by the Dissolution. The present +rood screen and canopied stalls were put in toward the close of the +fifteenth century. In 1502 the Lady-kirk (in which a chantry had been +founded in 1392) was handed over by the Chapter to Archbishop Savage, +who in turn transferred it to Fountains Abbey. Abbot Huby, intending to +make it a colony of Cistercians, rebuilt the east end of it, and +enclosed part of its graveyard with a fine stone wall having a +strongly-marked base. Of this wall a great part remains in St. +Mary-gate. A large doorway in it has been built up. The Lady-kirk itself +has vanished long ago. + +At this time was begun the greatest architectural enterprise that had +been undertaken at Ripon since the twelfth century, namely, the +rebuilding of the nave of the minster. The Transitional nave, it was +said, had become ruinous through age and storms, but the real motive for +its destruction was probably an ambition to enlarge the building. The +enlargement of aisleless churches was usually begun by the addition of a +single aisle, and that on the north side (since the south was usually +the side of the graveyard); but at Ripon the south aisle was built +first, perhaps because it was always intended that there should be two +aisles--an arrangement which there were no cloisters here to prevent. +The work was begun in 1502 or 1503. Delayed by a plague in 1506, it was +almost complete, as Leland's _Itinerary_ shows,[21] when he visited the +town about 1538, but the aisles had not yet been vaulted when the +Dissolution came, and had wooden roofs until our own time. Irreparable +as is the loss of Archbishop Roger's nave, its successor must surely be +placed among the great naves of the Perpendicular period--and it is the +latest of them. The work was furthered by =Archbishop Savage= (1501-1507) +and by =Cardinal Archbishop Bainbridge= (1508-1514), and two canons must +especially be mentioned in connection with it, Andrew Newman, appointed +Master of the Fabric in 1502, and =Marmaduke Bradley=, who was paymaster, +and who was connected with the repairs after the failure of the central +tower, and gave up to the fabric a large portion of his fees for +residence. The last work done before the Reformation was probably the +rebuilding of the three westernmost bays on the south side of the choir, +which had been weakened doubtless by the accident to the central tower. + +By this time the church contained nine chantries, namely, those of St. +Andrew (founded 1234); of the Holy Trinity _supra summum altare_ (1345); +of St. John the Evangelist and St. John the Baptist (1364); of St. James +(1407-8); of Our Lady 'in the Church' (1408); of St. Thomas of +Canterbury (1418); of the Holy Trinity _subtus altare_ (1466); of Our +Lady 'in the Lady-loft'; and of St. Wilfrid (? 1420). In some of these, +other chantries had been merged. There were also four or five chantries +in various chapels in the parish. The chantry-chaplains were not +strictly on the staff, but helped on Sundays and festivals. As their +chantries did not give them sufficient occupation, they sometimes held +in addition such offices as that of Proctor of an absent canon, Curator +of the Fabric, Sub-Precentor, Sub-Treasurer, or Chamberlain, the holder +of this post being the chief financial officer of the community. + +On the eve of the Reformation the discipline of the staff was again very +unsatisfactory, chiefly through the influence of the Treasurer, Canon +Christopher Dragley, who employed the vestry clerks on his private +business, disposed of chantries prematurely, and encouraged the Vicars, +who were now living dispersed, to be insubordinate. It was the custom +for choir and clergy to adjourn after Prime to the Chapter-house, where +the martyrology for the day was read and notices were given out. Here, +too, once a week sat the Chapter Court. But Dragley was able to hinder +all this by keeping the door locked. From 1533 to 1539 he was Treasurer, +Canon Residentiary, and President of the Chapter, and the general laxity +was largely due to this concentration of authority in the hands of one +bad man through non-residence. The case of Dragley drew several decrees +from =Archbishop Edward Lee= (1531-1544):--that no vicar should be +appointed without the consent of a majority in Chapter; that the Chapter +seal must be kept by three people; that one canon must no longer form a +quorum (as hitherto) in the Chapter Court, and as a question had arisen +whether the powers of the Chapter were not entirely vested in the +canons-resident,[22] it was laid down that the latter were indeed +competent to dispose of certain chantries and other offices, and to +exercise the Chapter's spiritual jurisdiction, but that in most other +matters the whole body must be consulted. As most of them were always +absent, this means, perhaps, that they were represented in Chapter by +their proctors. There is an instance in 1546 of the Vicars, chantry +priests, and deacons being allowed to take part in a Chapter meeting. + +An attack on relics was begun in 1538, and it was probably about this +date that the shrine of St. Wilfrid was destroyed. In 1539 came the +suppression of Fountains Abbey, the abbot who surrendered it being no +other than Marmaduke Bradley. He had been Abbot since 1536, holding his +canonry at Ripon at the same time, and after the suppression of the +Abbey, he became once more a power at Ripon. As sole residentiary in +1544, 1545, and 1546, he appears to have used his influence well, and +played a prominent part in the last architectural operations before the +Dissolution. The old system of sanctuary, suited only to times when the +State was weak, seems to have died out about this period. In 1545 came +an Act for the dissolution of chantries and hospitals. As 'Supreme Head +of the Church' Henry VIII. renewed the visitatorial authority of the +Archbishops, and both he and Edward VI. confirmed the ecclesiastical +jurisdiction of the Chapter. But the end was imminent. In 1547 the +College was dissolved,[23] and its revenues were annexed to the Duchy of +Lancaster. There had been attached to the church for centuries a =Grammar +School=, for which the Chapter had claimed a monopoly of education within +the Parish and Liberty, forbidding in 1468 the establishment of any +other school without their special licence. This ancient seminary was +apparently dissolved, and a new grammar school independent of the church +was founded by Edward VI., whose benefaction was completed by Mary, the +endowment being provided from the revenues of four of the late +chantries. There had also been a Song-school, but it was perhaps merely +a room in which boys of the Grammar School were trained to be +choristers. Out of the confiscated revenues one or more clergy were paid +to minister to the parish, but under Mary the old state of things was in +some measure brought back. There was once more a Chamberlain, whose +accounts show much the same items as do those of his mediaeval +predecessors, and the old religion was restored; indeed, there were six +altars in the church. + +Under Elizabeth there was a return to the arrangement of Edward, the +clergy (now as many as five in number) being denominated vicars. +Archbishop Sandys (1577-1588), Lord Burleigh, Richard Hooker, Moses +Fowler (afterwards the first Dean), and others tried to bring about the +establishment of a theological college in the Bedern, and an increase of +the endowments of the church, but in vain. The town must have lost all +favour in 1569, by taking part in the Rising in the North. It was +visited by the rebel earls of Northumberland and Westmorland, many of +the townsmen and local gentry joining them, and for the last time the +minster witnessed the celebration of the Mass. On the collapse of the +rebellion, a number of those who had taken up arms were hanged at Ripon +in sight of their homes, and the church suffered much damage from the +Queen's soldiery, who stripped the lead from the roof. Like the +Pilgrimage of Grace in 1536, this Rising was a protest against the +Reformation, and the records of Archbishop Young (1561-1568), and of the +Court of High Commission (1580), show that the people of Ripon still +clung to the old religion. The pillage of Henry and Edward had no doubt +destroyed most of the ornaments of the church, but some still remained +or had been renewed under Mary, and the clergy displayed a marked +reluctance in removing them; 'Images,' even when removed, were concealed +in private houses. One vicar named Thomas Blackburne had continued the +old practice of holding churchings in the Lady-chapel, and was ordered +publicly to renounce this error, as well as that of having left "that +olde, abhominable, and supersticious vawte called the Wilfride's +nedle[24] and the alter therein" undefaced. One townsman is punished for +having taken part in the Mass during the late Rising. The clergy +generally were unclerical in dress and lax in their performance of the +reformed services, which the parishioners showed a corresponding +unwillingness to attend, while the old fasts and festivals were not +wholly given up. + +[Illustration: RIPON MINSTER ANTERIOR TO 1660. + +_Note_.--This representation much resembles that engraved on the old +communion plate. As a view of Ripon Minster, it affords an instance of +the inaccuracy of old architectural drawings; but it shows, at any rate, +the effect of the spires.] + +=The Chapter revived.=--On the accession of =James I.= a second futile +attempt was made to obtain for Ripon a theological college.[25] The +influence, however, of the queen, =Anne of Denmark=, gained from the king +a greater boon, and in 1604 he re-established the Chapter. Under the new +constitution there were six prebendaries, and for the first time a Dean. +Much of the old endowments was restored, but the new stalls could not be +identified with the old territorial prebends, and were therefore +distinguished as 'the first stall,' 'the second stall,' and so on. After +1607 the Prebendaries were empowered to elect a Sub-Dean. The cure of +souls was discharged by two vicars, and the choir was composed of six +lay-clerks and six choristers. The parish remained a Peculiar. The +spiritual jurisdiction of the Chapter and the Archbishop had been +somewhat restricted by the Reformation, and the secular jurisdiction of +the Liberty--especially in criminal cases--had been partly transferred +to the king's itinerant justices. The Archbishop, however, still +retained some criminal jurisdiction and also his 'Court Military,' +which, strange to say, came to hear civil cases. During the latter half +of the fifteenth century the secular cases heard by the Chapter had been +chiefly cases of debt, and under the new constitution they were +authorized to hold a court, which was called the Canon Fee Court, for +cases of debt and other civil cases. Some obscurity exists as to the +mediaeval relation of the Archbishop to the town. There was, of course, a +town council, and its president the Wakeman[26] (an official peculiar to +Ripon) had charge of what would now be called the town police. The +ancient town bridges (of which only one remains) were under the charge +of the Archbishop. During the sixteenth century the borough constitution +had been the subject of disputes, in which Cardinal Wolsey had been +concerned in 1517 and Archbishop Hutton in 1598. James I. therefore now +granted a new Charter, under which the Wakeman became a Mayor; and +henceforth the borough had also an independent court of its own. The +dissolution of the Chapter in 1547, coming as it did upon the decay of +the manufacture of woollen cloth, had been a great blow to the +prosperity of the inhabitants,[27] and it was no wonder that when James +visited the town in 1617 he received an ovation. + +In 1625 a plague, such as had not occurred here since 1546, prevented +the country folk from approaching the minster, and obliged them to have +their children baptized in the fields. Several changes in the +surroundings of the church took place at this time. The Bedern, with its +quadrangle, hall, and chapel, had been demolished by 1625, in which year +the Deanery was erected, perhaps upon its site. Of the old prebendal +houses some had been sold, or let; others, perhaps, were occupied by the +Prebendaries of the new foundation. In 1629 the ancient Palace, which +stood to the north of the minster and west of the Deanery, was turned +into a poor-house. The town (and doubtless the minster) was visited in +1633 by Charles I. on his way to his coronation at Edinburgh.[28] A few +years later he was to pass through again, a captive on his way to Holmby +House. + +Ripon had escaped the Wars of the Roses, but it was not unscathed by the +Great Rebellion, for in 1643 it was occupied by Sir Thomas Mauleverer, a +Parliamentary officer, whose soldiery broke into the minster and +shattered the magnificent glass in the great east window, and doubtless +much other glass besides. At the end of the war the manorial rights were +sold to Lord Fairfax, and the Chapter was again dissolved, "one who +called himself Dr. Richardson" being "appointed to preach in the minster +by the Parliament, tho' in all probability he was never in any Orders, +Presbyterian or Episcopal."[29] The Chapter was revived at the +Restoration, but all its members were new save one. + +In the same year (1660) the central spire, which had been injured by +lightning in 1593, fell through the roof, wrecking many of the beautiful +canopies of the stalls. The damage to the choir and other parts of the +church, estimated at L6000, was repaired with money raised under a brief +from Charles II., but the spire was never rebuilt, and in 1664, to avoid +any further catastrophe, the western spires, though sound, were +deliberately removed.[30] The place of the spires was ill supplied by +the erection of battlements and pinnacles, which were renewed in 1797. + +It was perhaps at this period that the west gate of the precincts was +pulled down--a mediaeval structure which contained at least seven rooms, +and which stood at the bottom of Kirkgate. The graveyard in the middle +ages contained a cross, at which a service was held on Palm Sunday; +also, possibly, a mortuary chapel and a well associated with St. +Wilfrid--(not, of course, the St. Wilfrid's well which now fills the +public baths). Of these things there is now not a trace, save, perhaps, +the stump of the cross, near the south wall of the nave. Nor are there +any undoubted remains of the mediaeval wall which enclosed the precincts, +except the fragment with an archway in it, which still forms the +southern entrance. The mediaeval prisons, which belonged respectively to +the Archbishop and the Chapter, have long vanished, as has also that +which appertained to the Court of Canon Fee, but there is a Liberty +prison of some age in 'Stammergate.' Most of the archiepiscopal palace +had disappeared by 1830, but there was still a portion which was used as +the court-house of the Liberty. In that year this was pulled down, and +the present court-house was built upon the site. A memory of the Palace +survives in 'Hall Yard,' and there still remains what is, perhaps, a +remnant of the actual fabric, in the shape of an old cottage with an +external staircase, which stands behind the wall to the west of the +public garden that fronts the north side of the church. In the +above-mentioned wall is an Early English doorway, with a dripstone +adorned with the nailhead moulding. The door has a flat-arched wooden +frame, the spandrels of which are carved with _fleurs-de-lys_, while the +wooden tympanum above has Perpendicular panelling. This doorway is not, +perhaps, a relic of the Palace. It is not in its original position, and +indeed is said to have come originally from St. Mary Magdalene's +Hospital. Several of the old houses adjoining the Cathedral on the south +side, and along St. Agnes-gate, may possibly have been inhabited by the +Prebendaries of the Second Collegiate foundation, but the stone-roofed +house adjoining Bondgate Green Bridge is the only one in Ripon which can +be identified with a mediaeval prebend--that of Thorp, and even here the +existing fabric can scarcely be pre-Reformation. St. John's +Hospital,[31] whose inmates for several centuries have been women, was +unfortunately rebuilt in 1869, but the modern chapel (served by one of +the cathedral clergy) retains a bell of 1663. The old Grammar +School,[32] which stood at the foot of the steps from St. Agnes-gate to +the Minster, has been pulled down since 1872. + +Meanwhile the Minster itself had been undergoing restoration--in 1829 +and the following years at the hands of Blore, when upwards of L3000 +were spent, and from 1862 to 1870 at the hands of Sir G. Gilbert Scott, +and at a cost of about L30,000. + +From the eighth century up to 1836 Ripon had been in the diocese of +York. In that year was created the modern diocese of Ripon, and the +church thus attained to cathedral rank. It had, however, always had some +pretension to that rank, not merely as a mother-church but because (up +to 1836) the Archbishops had their throne in the choir; indeed, it is +styled a cathedral in documents of 1537 and 1546. The diocese is +composed of parts of Yorkshire taken from the sees of York and Chester, +and included Wakefield, Leeds, Bradford, Halifax and Huddersfield, until +in 1888 a portion including Halifax and Huddersfield was taken away to +form part of a new diocese of Wakefield. There are three archdeaconries: +those of Richmond, Ripon, and Craven. The first is a survival, in a +diminished form, of the ancient archdeaconry of the same name; the +others are modern; the last is the only one which is held without a +canonry. In accordance with the Act of 1840, the Sub-Deanery has been +suppressed, the Prebendaries have been reduced to four, and their style +has been changed to that of Canons. In 1841, provision was made for the +appointment of Canons honorary. There is also a precentor, and three +other clergy who act as minor canons, and assist him in discharging the +cure of souls--for though the huge mediaeval parish has been gradually +divided into many, the greater portion of the city itself is still +served from the cathedral church. The choir is composed of six +lay-clerks and twelve choristers. There was as late as 1890 a +Choir-school, but most of the present choristers come from Jepson's +Hospital--a charity which was founded in 1672, in Water Skellgate, and +the old buildings of which were pulled down in 1878. + +There are still some relics of the ancient jurisdictions of the Chapter +and the Archbishop. Though the secular jurisdiction has been gradually +reduced by legislation to the scope of Quarter and Petty Sessions, the +Liberty has Quarter Sessions of its own, and its justices are still +nominated by the Archbishop, while his Court Military survived at any +rate into the nineteenth century. A copyhold court, called the Canon Fee +Court, is also still held by the Chapter. As regards ecclesiastical +jurisdiction, the mediaeval right of the Chapter to hear testamentary and +matrimonial cases (which were not taken away from the ecclesiastical +courts till 1857) probably survived at least until the abolition of the +Peculiar. Peculiars, with but one or two exceptions, had ceased to exist +by 1850, and Ripon, once exempt from archidiaconal authority, is now +itself an archdeaconry. The Bishop of Ripon has, of course, his +Consistory court, which is held at the Cathedral. + +In ending this account of one of the most venerable of English churches, +it is worth while to remark that, of the four mother-churches of the old +diocese of York, Ripon is the only one besides York Cathedral itself +which still has a collegiate foundation. + + [Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] The archbishopric of York arose out of the bishopric of Northumbria +in the eighth century. + +[2] The name in this form is modern. In common speech the street is +always 'Stammergate,' which is probably a corruption of 'Stanbriggate.' +The latter is the original name of the street, and appears frequently in +mediaeval records. It has reference to a stone bridge over a brook where +the gas-works now are. The continuation of this street toward the +Cathedral is called St. Mary-gate, but this name again seems to be +modern, and to have arisen from a notion that 'St. Mary-gate' is the +origin of the word 'Stammergate'--a notion which would be rendered more +plausible by the fact that this was the situation of the Lady-kirk. + +[3] The question whether his monastery church stood over the Saxon crypt +which exists below the present Cathedral is reserved for Chap. III. + +[4] For the place of Ripon in the theory of the direct connection of +Saxon architecture with the Comacine Guild of Italy, see _The Cathedral +Builders_, by Leader Scott, p. 139 _sqq._ + +[5] An MS. which has been thought to be identical with Wilfrid's gift +came into the market recently, and has passed to America. + +[6] The Saint's return after his long exile is still commemorated at +Ripon, early in August, on the first Saturday after Lammas Day, when a +man dressed as a Saxon bishop and riding a grey horse is escorted +through the streets. + +[7] This liturgical term sometimes refers to the _burial_ of a saint, +sometimes, as here, to the _death_. + +[8] There is also mention of an Abbot Tylberht, but he may be the same +as Tatberht. + +[9] _I.e._, 'Elves-how'--'the hill of fairies.' Coins of Aella and other +early kings have been found in the hill. + +[10] At a later period the Chapter claimed also that 'St. Wilfrid's men' +need not pay tolls when travelling on business through the realm, and on +one occasion they issued to a Ripon clerk a kind of passport. + +[11] Frisia's debt was remembered in the seventeenth century, when one +of the Canons of Antwerp wrote an account of Ripon monastery for his +countrymen. + +[12] Until Walbran drew attention to this passage, the rebuilding was +attributed to Thurstan. + +[13] Especially at St. Wilfrid's shrine. + +[14] It has been suggested that this was the iron which in Saxon times +had been used for the ordeal of fire. + +[15] A Peculiar is a district taken out of its geographical surroundings +for purposes of ecclesiastical jurisdiction (_Sir W. Anson_). + +[16] In later times (at any rate) the Archbishop apparently had a +spiritual court of his own. A Chapter minute of 1467 declares a certain +person accused of a spiritual offence to be "non de foro Capituli sed de +foro Archiepiscopi, unde litterae correctionis emanarunt." + +[17] This church had disappeared, as Leland tells us, long before his +visit to Ripon, which took place about 1538. The dates of its erection +and demolition are both unknown. In the Chapter-house is preserved a key +which has been assigned to the fifteenth century, and which has been +thought to have belonged to Allhallows, but it is thought that the +church disappeared at an early date. + +[18] This Sunday is still called Wilfrid Sunday at Ripon. The Saturday +preceding it is the day on which the town commemorates the Saint's +return from his first appeal to Rome. The season is regarded as a +holiday, and another relic of the nativity festival survives in the fair +held on the Thursday after August 2nd. + +[19] The Easter Communion has survived till our own day. Within living +memory, and at a period when Early Celebrations were not usual, it was +celebrated at 7 A.M., and people drove in from the outlying places. + +[20] This word is probably connected with the Anglo-Saxon 'bed,' a +prayer (whence 'bedesmen'), and means a 'house of prayer.' In one +passage of the records it is rendered in Latin by _proseucha_. + +[21] It was Walbran, again, who drew attention to Leland's phraseology +here. + +[22] The Canon of Stanwick was always in Ripon, but was not considered +technically a canon-resident. Perhaps he was not entitled to the special +fees for residence. He had, however, full capitular rights. These had +been denied to him by Dragley, but were now restored by the Archbishop. + +[23] If the Ripon hospitals were dissolved they were re-established, for +they are still fulfilling their purpose. + +[24] _I.e._, the Saxon crypt. + +[25] The project is being realized in our own day. + +[26] _I.e._, the watchman, or setter of the watch. The town motto is, +"Except the Lord keep the city, the _Wakeman_ waketh in vain." After +1598 a horn was blown every evening to denote the setting of the watch. +If any house was robbed between horn-blowing and sunrise, compensation +could be claimed from the town. To support this system a small tax was +levied on each house-door, and if a house had two doors it paid more, as +being more liable to be robbed. A relic of the system still survives. +Every night a horn is blown thrice before the Mayor's door at 9 P.M. and +thrice at the Market Cross afterwards. The ancient horn of the Wakeman +(which appears on the city arms) is still worn by the Sergeant-at-mace +in civic processions. + +[27] Since then, however, another industry had arisen--the manufacture +of spurs, for which Ripon became famous, and James was presented with a +pair. This industry did not die out till the end of the last century, +and a spur is still the crest of the city. The manufacture of +saddle-trees, which flourished here in the sixteenth century, is still +carried on. + +[28] In 1640 he was at war with the Scots for their opposition to +episcopacy, and it was at Ripon that the disgraceful negotiations were +begun, by which a sum of L850 a day was to be paid to maintain their +invading army, pending a more permanent settlement. The house in which +the 'Treaty of Ripon' was negotiated stood near Ailcy Hill, and +disappeared about the beginning of the century. Charles is said to have +visited the town four times altogether. + +[29] Walker's "Sufferings of the Clergy," quoted in _Surtees Soc._, Vol. +78. There is a tablet to Richardson's wife in the south Choir-aisle. + +[30] The following is probably the true version of a story that is told +in connection with their demolition. One of the workmen had been hoisted +by means of a pulley, and was being held aloft by his comrades below, +when he spied some coursing in progress on Bondgate Green. Seeing the +hare well away and the dogs straining in the leash, he shouted "Let go!" +And his comrades below did. + +[31] For the other hospitals, the 'Thorp' house, and other old buildings +still standing, see Chap. IV. + +[32] Ripon Grammar School has produced an Archbishop of York, Matthew +Hutton (one of the two of that name who held the office from 1595 to +1606 and from 1749 to 1757 respectively: the latter Hutton became +Archbishop of Canterbury); also Beilby Porteous, Bishop of London +(1776-1787), and Dr. William Stubbs, late Bishop of Oxford. + + + + + [Illustration: THE WEST DOORWAYS.] + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE EXTERIOR. + + +Built upon the verge of a slope, along whose base the Skell hurries +eastwards under many bridges to join the Ure among the meadows a +half-mile below the town, Ripon Cathedral stands unusually well.[33] Of +general views the two best, perhaps, are to be had from the wooden +bridge by Bondgate Green, and from the south-east gate of the graveyard. +Unfortunately lack of funds prevented Sir Gilbert Scott from raising the +roofs of nave and transept to their original pitch; but what most +injures the general effect is the lowness of the central tower, which is +no higher than those at the west end. This fault, however, must have +been far less noticeable when all three towers were crowned with lofty +spires. And, even as it stands, the exterior of Ripon is dignified and +not unworthy of its commanding site. The size of the clearstorey +windows, the severity of the transept, the obvious variety of style and +date throughout the building--these are the features that strike the +observer most forcibly. + +Several kinds of material have been employed. Up to almost the end of +the thirteenth century the builders used a coarse gritstone such as is +found five miles to the south-west at Brimham Rocks, and also a finer +gritstone or sandstone that may have come from Hackfall. After that date +they built with magnesian limestone, brought partly, perhaps, from near +York, but chiefly, it would seem, from Quarry Moor, a mile south of the +city. At the last restoration the older parts were repaired with +Hackfall stone, and the later parts with limestone from Quarry Moor and +Monkton Moor, and so extensive were the repairs needed on the exterior, +that the church somewhat belies, by its appearance, its real antiquity. + +The most picturesque approach is from High St. Agnes-gate by a flight of +steps, which ascend through an old arch to an avenue of limes that leads +up to the south door; but it is better, perhaps, that the survey should +begin at the west end. + +=The West Front= was doubtless the object of two indulgences, issued +respectively by Archbishop de Gray in 1233 and by Pope Alexander IV. in +1258, and was therefore erected just before or during the struggle +between Henry III. and Simon de Montfort, in the best period of the +Early English style. + +The height of the gable is said to be 103 feet, and that of the towers +110 feet, and the front is divided by the string-courses into four +stages. In the central compartment the lowest stage is approached by +three steps, and is filled by three doorways, set in a thickening of the +wall, and surmounted by gables finished with crosses. The central +entrance, higher, more widely splayed, and more deeply recessed than the +others, has five orders and five triple shafts in the jamb, while they +have three orders and three shafts, the innermost of which is triple and +the others single. As usual in this style, the shafts are detached and +not worked on the stones of the jamb. The mouldings of the capitals are +carried through the jamb from end to end, and on the front of the piers +between the archways is a curious moulding which resembles an undercut +roll set up on end, and which has a capital as if it were a shaft. In +the arches the mouldings are chiefly rounds and hollows: many of the +former are filleted, and some of the latter are filled with the +dog-tooth (an ornament peculiar to this style), which is more profusely +employed in the central arch than in the others. The terminations of the +dripstones are foliated and stand out detached. The central gable is +adorned with a square panel of foliage, and either of the others with a +sunk foliated quatrefoil, and between the gables are spouts issuing from +the heads of animals. It is worthy of remark that all three doors open +into the nave; for as a rule when a church has three west doors, two of +them open into the aisles.[34] The wooden doors in these and all the +doorways of the church are of considerable age, and those in the central +archway here bear the date 1673 in nails. + +Above the doors is a tier of five lancet windows, and above these +another tier, also of five, which diminish in height toward the sides, +the last window at either end being, however, as high as the tier below. +These tiers occupy the whole width of the compartment. Above them, +again, is a group of three small lancets graduated to the gable and +placed very high, with a string-course below them. These serve to light +the space between the internal and external roofs. In all this work the +detail is of the very best: the various arches are richly moulded and +supported by clusters of engaged shafts, which in the two great tiers +are banded at about half their height, and the dog-tooth ornament is +everywhere employed profusely. The lower tier is the more elaborate--its +mouldings more numerous, its shafts more richly clustered, its capitals +covered with foliage; and between the second and third lancets from the +right there is a small niche with a toothed edge and the remains of a +figure. At either end of the two tiers an ornament not unlike the +ball-flower of the Decorated style is carried up the jamb, and a bold +corbel-table runs up the sides of the gable, under the apex of which +there is a trefoil panel, while the whole is crowned by an elaborate +cross. + + [Illustration: VIEW FROM THE NORTH-WEST.] + +In the towers the lowest of the four stages is relieved by a little +arcade of six trefoiled arches, with detached shafts, fluted capitals, +and dripstones not trefoiled and terminating in heads. Each of the three +upper stages is occupied by three tall lancets, of which that in the +centre, higher and broader than the others, is pierced and (except in +the belfry) glazed. In their enrichment these arcades resemble the +windows of the central compartment. The second stage is not quite so +high here in the towers as it is there, and the level of the +string-course above is consequently broken. The third stage, taller than +the second, reaches to the springing of the gable. The fourth, taller +than the third, rises somewhat above the gable cross, and the shafts of +the lancets are twice banded, while above are two circular panels, which +on the north tower are raised and contain quatrefoils, but on the south +tower are sunk and contain trefoils. On the other faces of these towers +the arches are not so richly moulded, and the shafts are single and also +detached, except in the uppermost stage of the north tower, where they +are engaged and filleted. As the second stage does not descend so low +upon the western face as upon the other faces, the string-course below +it, after passing round the corners of the facade, is stopped, and when +it is resumed it passes above the sill of the arcade, being carried +round the little plinths of the shafts. All the string-courses, it will +be noticed, are enriched with the nailhead moulding. The buttresses rise +to the parapets without diminishing in breadth or projection--an early +feature, and three large rolls or beads are worked upon their edge. +Those that flank the portal have each a large niche at the bottom, with +engaged shafts, and the head and dripstone trefoiled. At the corners of +the facade, where the staircases are, the buttresses are triple. The +original corbel-table, surmounted by a row of dog-tooth ornament, +remains at the top of the towers, but the battlements and pinnacles have +been put up since the removal of the spires in 1664, and were renewed in +1797. + +The bells, ten in number, are in the south tower. Of the mediaeval peal, +which consisted of six bells, the largest, known as the _Klank Knoll_, +was made in 1379 at York, and perhaps hung in the north tower; while +some of the others seem to have been made in Ripon in 1391. They were +all recast in 1761 by Lester & Pack of London, after which there were +eight. Two of these (Nos. 4 and 7) were recast in 1866 by Warner of +London, and two new bells (Nos. 1 and 2), by Shaw of Bradford, have been +added since 1890. The ninth bell is rung every evening at nine for the +curfew. The mediaeval clock, mentioned in 1379, has long vanished; +another was put up in 1723; the present clock (by Thwaites of +Clerkenwell) dates from 1808. + +The whole front has been much restored by Sir Gilbert Scott, especially +the doorways and the towers. The latter were badly cracked through +settlement (due partly to the fact that in either tower one of the sides +is older than the rest),[35] but, as Sir Gilbert himself declared, they +are once more strong enough to bear spires, and it is to be hoped that +the hint will some day be taken. The more the west front of Ripon is +studied, the more it becomes apparent how much thought has been expended +upon it. Yet as a work of art it is perplexing. To some it will appear +beautiful as a design; to others its excellence of detail will be its +only commendation, and they will complain that the tiers of windows are +wider than the gable, that there is a disproportion between the little +arcade in the lowest stage of the towers and the great lancets in the +upper stages, that the height of the latter makes the towers appear +top-heavy, that the whole facade lacks projection and depth of shade, +and that there is too much glass. Some dissatisfaction was felt, as the +Fabric Rolls indicate, in 1379, when masons were employed to divide each +of the large windows into two lights with a quatrefoil above.[36] The +mullions and quatrefoils remained till our own day, when they were +removed by Sir Gilbert Scott, whose action the present state of expert +opinion on restoration would severely condemn. + +=The Nave. North Side.=--By being rebuilt with the addition of aisles, the +nave became as wide as the west front. Its width is 87 feet internally +and nearly 100 feet externally, and it is the widest nave in England +after York, Winchester, Chichester, and St. Paul's. The date of the +rebuilding is indicated by a Chapter minute of 1502, which alludes to +the _onus canonicis modo impositum super reaedificationem navis_. The +Fabric Rolls mention the purchase of stone in 1503, and the roofing of +some "new work" in 1505, while a will of 1508 requires the testator's +body to be buried in "the new work of the College Church." These are +doubtless references to the south side, which is evidently the older and +bears internally the arms of Archbishop Savage (1501-1507). Again, an +indulgence of 1512, by Archbishop Bainbridge (1508-1514), alluding to +the demolition of the old nave as then complete, suggests that the north +wall had been left standing till then, and the laying of the foundation +of the north aisle, which bears his arms, is mentioned in the Roll for +1512-13. It appears from the Rolls that the main roof was up by 1520-21. +Lastly, Leland's allusion to "the body of the Chirch of late dayes made +of a great Widnesse" shows that the main part of the work was finished +at any rate by about 1538.[37] + +The nave is divided--east of the towers--into six bays, of which the +easternmost is narrower than the rest, to answer to a fragment of the +old nave preserved within. The plinth is considerably higher than that +of the west front. + +On the north side, the six buttresses project 5 feet at the base and +rise to the parapet in two stages, which are crowned by gables. These +gables have their sides curved inwards and are adorned with crockets and +finials, the latter being attached to the front of the gable, while +grotesques project from the angles. The windows are of three lights, and +are rather acutely jointed and deeply set for such late work, and their +arches are well moulded, a broad hollow running up the sides. As is +often the case in late work, there are no sub-arches in the tracery, and +the mullions are carried up through the head. The easternmost of these +windows is of two lights, and has a transom in the tracery, and the +westernmost is shortened to allow of a doorway of four-centred form +beneath. Below the sills runs a string-course, which rises to pass over +the door. The parapet is battlemented, not for military purposes but for +ornament, and at intervals are the beginnings of panelled pinnacles, set +diagonally and partially embedded in the battlements. The clearstorey +has no pilasters or buttresses, but where it joins the west tower a +projecting strip of masonry may be seen half imbedded in the Early +English work and half in the Perpendicular. This is, without doubt, the +upper part of one of the buttresses of the old nave. + +The clearstorey windows are actually larger than those of the aisle +below, and are again rather acutely pointed for late work. They are of +five lights, and the two mullions in the middle are carried up through +the head, but a sub-arch comprises the two outer lights on either side. +The last window eastwards is of three lights, is shorter than the rest, +and has several transoms in the tracery. In the parapet, the coping is +not carried down the sides of the battlements as it is on the aisles, +and the rudimentary pinnacles spring from grotesque corbels at the +string-course, with a plain corbel at the side of each to carry the +water-spout. + +=The Central Tower. North and West Sides.=--The central tower of Ripon is +probably unique among towers in being divided vertically between two +different styles of architecture. Its north and west sides are +Archbishop Roger's work,[38] but the other sides are Perpendicular, +having been rebuilt after the collapse of the south-east angle. Seen +from the north-west, however, it presents much the same appearance now +as in the twelfth century, and either side displays a pair of +round-headed windows, with the weathering of the original roof rising +high between them and (on the west face) cutting off their corners. The +windows have a shaft in the jamb, and the abacus of the capitals is +continued round the tower as a string, but interrupted by the +buttresses and weatherings, as is also another string below the sills. +In the windows of the north side there is a space or tympanum over the +inner arch. Each corner of the tower was strengthened by a pair of flat +buttresses, with one shaft at the corner itself and another at the inner +side of either buttress, and with the shafts banded half way up and +again near the top. These buttresses are received in an overhanging +corbel-table, above which runs a hollow moulding, filled with dog-tooth +ornament of a large size and continued round the projections that serve +for gargoyles. The use of this Early English ornament in a scheme which +might otherwise be pure Norman affords a good instance of the +Transitional character of the work. The battlements are later. + +=The North Transept=, with the three adjacent bays of the choir, gives +some idea of the external appearance of Archbishop Roger's church.[39] +The date of the beginning of the work ascribed to him is placed within +his lifetime (1154-1181) by his own words quoted in Chapter I. The +transept is divided by the string-courses into four stages, and has a +very massive plinth which is lower than that of the nave, thus +expressing the slope of the ground. The west wall is shorter than the +east and has two bays only, but south of the second bay, and separated +from it by a flat pilaster, is a narrow space, along the top of which +are the remains of a cornice: the two bays proper are separated by a +recessed buttress of some projection. One round-headed window, divided +by a mullion, appears in the second stage; and in the fourth stage are +two plain, round-headed windows, not subdivided. The original +corbel-table remains above, but it is surmounted by a (probably) +fourteenth century battlemented parapet, which is returned over the +central buttress, forming a square turret, which has a (renewed) +gargoyle below it, and is pierced with a cross. The buttresses at the +north-west corner of the transept, where is a staircase, are clustered +and rise to the top of the wall, and like most Norman buttresses, and +some of Early English date (as in the west front), they do not diminish +as they ascend. The large buttress on the west side of this corner has +two carved stones built into it at the height of about eighteen feet +from the ground. They are covered with patterns resembling the knots so +often found on ancient crosses, and are of especial interest as being +possibly survivals of the church built by St. Wilfrid.[40] It is +noticeable that the first string-course is the only one which is not +carried round the buttresses at this corner. A recessed buttress of the +same type separates the end of the transept from that of an aisle which +is thrown out from its eastern side. + + [Illustration: DOORWAY, NORTH TRANSEPT.] + +The lowest stage of this north elevation is blank save for a rather +interesting doorway set in a thickening of the wall near the western +corner. In this doorway the innermost arch is of unusual form--a trefoil +resting on corbels--and its edges are left square and plain. Over it is +a semicircular arch of three orders with three detached shafts in either +jamb, and as usual throughout almost all Archbishop Roger's work, the +arch has the edge-roll between hollows (here on every order), the shafts +are detached, their bases round upon square, and their capitals +square-topped, with the edge of the abacus hollowed. The capitals here +are enriched with good foliage of a rather classical type. + +In the stage above are three round-headed windows with a shaft in either +jamb and foliage on the capitals. Each of these windows, like that on +the west side, and several in the other transept, has been divided by a +mullion into two lights, presumably in the fourteenth century.[41] The +third stage, which corresponds to the triforium within, is blank here as +on the west side, and in the fourth stage are three round-headed +windows, plainly recessed and chamfered. The gable, on which stands a +plain cross, has been lowered, as is shown by the weathering on the +tower, and its sides, after descending, take an upward turn to meet the +corners. It is flanked by two lofty square turrets, which have been +compared with those on the west front of Tewkesbury. They have a shaft +at each angle, are pierced on each face with two round-headed openings +under a round arch, with a string below running round the turret, and +are surmounted by pyramidal stone caps ending in pommels and having a +rude pinnacle at each corner. The end of the aisle is set back, and +displays a window like the three above the door, but without the +dividing mullion; and above this a round-headed niche, doubtless once a +window that lighted the space over the aisle-vault; while a round arch +over this niche, and a little pointed arch on the buttress adjacent +westwards, carry a curious thickening of the masonry above. The +arrangement of the windows here breaks the continuity of the first +string-course, which, after crossing the main elevation, has to be +stopped and resumed at a lower level in order to pass beneath the +windows of the aisle. At the corner of the latter are more clustered +buttresses, terminating below the parapet, and above them rises a plain +gabled pinnacle (an addition, probably, of the fourteenth century), +while another buttress, rising from the inclined coping of the +aisle-wall, runs up the clearstorey. + +The east side of the aisle has two more buttresses like those at the +corner, and consists of two bays, each containing a window like that at +the end. It is hard to say whether the moulded string or cornice below +the parapet is original, but the gargoyle which juts from it and the +parapet itself, with its cruciform piercings, are not earlier than the +fourteenth century. The roofs of the aisles in both transepts and in the +choir have been lowered, and it has been suggested that this was done at +the time when the Minster was fortified against the Scots, in order to +afford better standing-room for armed men,[42] and the various +battlements on choir and transepts were probably erected for the same +occasion. Here the round arches of the triforium have been built up, and +the clearstorey harmonizes with the more elaborate scheme of the choir. +The wall is divided into three bays by flat pilasters received in the +cornice, and each bay contains a round arch, pierced and glazed, between +two lower and narrower pointed arches, all resting on single detached +shafts. Between the buttresses runs a corbel-table, supporting a +battlemented parapet of Decorated character, in which the merlons are of +great width in proportion to the embrasures--an early feature--and have +the usual cruciform piercings, so splayed at the back as to leave no +doubt that they were really intended for the use of archers. The three +gargoyles below have been renewed, and none of the gargoyles on choir or +transepts are earlier, perhaps, than the Decorated period. + +=The Choir. North Side.=--Here the three westernmost bays of the aisle and +clearstorey respectively are Archbishop Roger's work. Two flat +pilaster-buttresses rise out of the slope of the plinth and run up the +aisle-wall, each terminating short of the parapet in two sets-off close +together. The level of the window-sills was the same here as in the +transept, but the string-course has been broken in the Decorated period +by the insertion of three slender windows, each having two lights with a +quatrefoil above. Above the windows comes the moulded string or cornice +continued from the transept, and above this the pierced merlons of the +Decorated battlement are again very broad in proportion to the +embrasures. Instead of being built up, the exposed arches of the +triforium have here been glazed. The clearstorey resembles that of the +transept, but the corbel table is surmounted here by a slope, on which +rest two large gargoyles (renewed), and instead of a Decorated +battlement there is a plain coping. + +The last three bays of the clearstorey and the last two of the aisle are +Decorated work, probably of the end of the thirteenth century, and here +the level of the plinth is again lowered to suit the slope of the +ground. In the aisle the two bays are separated from the rest and from +each other by buttresses having a projection of 8 feet. Either of these +buttresses is crowned by a gable having a finial, and is surmounted by a +tall square pinnacle to receive the thrust of a flying buttress that +spans the aisle; and either pinnacle has its sides panelled and gabled, +a head at each corner, and five finials. The two last aisle-windows are +larger than those in the western bays, but have much the same tracery. +They have, however, a thick shaft worked on the stones of the jamb, and +a large keeled round on the edge of the arch, and there is no dripstone. +Below them is a small string-course, which is carried round the east +end. The string or cornice above them is made to match that on the +western portion of the aisle, but in the battlement the merlons are of +merely ordinary width. In the clearstorey the wall is considerably set +back from the Transitional bays, and the three windows are very +elaborate. Their arches are richly moulded and acutely pointed, the +springing-line being rather low down. Each window is divided into four +lights, comprised under two sub-arches, either of which contains a +circle enclosing a trefoil, while above, in the head of the window, is a +large circle with five trefoils radiating from its centre. The +dripstones end in heads. A moulded string-course, with gargoyles, runs +below the parapet, which is a continuation of the plain coping on the +western bays. + +From this point it will be best to return to the west front, and proceed +along the south side of the Cathedral. + +=The Nave. South Side.=--This side is architecturally superior to the +other, and differs from it greatly in detail. The plinth, which is very +massive, rises even higher above that of the west front here than it +does there, and the buttresses project over 8 feet at the base and are +of three stages, and the gables on these have their sides straight, +their eaves everywhere continued to the wall, and their corners enriched +with heads, but on the second stage only. In the two easternmost +buttresses the lowest stage has heads also, and in the last buttress +eastwards this stage, for some unexplained reason, is twice as broad as +the others, and has an ogee gable. On all gables the crockets are large, +and the finials, which here stand upon the apex, are huge and very +boldly executed; while the rudimentary pinnacles are thicker here than +on the north side and more detached from the parapet. The wall is +thickened up to the windows, below which there is a set-off, and the +windows themselves are so moulded as to seem set in heavy frames, and +are much less acutely pointed than in the other aisle, their arches +approaching the 'drop' form. The rather clumsy mullions are carried up +through the head, but branch out to form arches over the side lights, +and are reduced in thickness above the branching point; and in the head +there is a transom, except in the narrow easternmost window. Though the +aisles differ so much, the clearstorey is much the same on this side as +on the other, and again one of Archbishop Roger's buttresses is visible, +imbedded between the Perpendicular walling and the west tower. The +height of his roof is indicated by the weathering on the central tower +and by the west gable, and the sixteenth century roof was probably not +lower, for the central tower shows high weatherings of the latter period +also; but the pitch had been lowered before the last restoration, and +Sir Gilbert Scott was unable to raise it to the full height. It is to be +hoped that the raising may yet be accomplished, and that lead may be +substituted for slate. + +=The South Transept=, all but its eastern side, is mainly Archbishop +Roger's work. The plinth is altogether lower not only than that of the +nave, and even of the west front, but also than that of the other +transept, and the architecture thus expresses the downward slope of the +ground from north to south as well as from west to east. Here, as in the +nave, the buttresses have a greater projection than on the north side of +the church, as if the ground here were more liable to settle. As this +transept bears a general resemblance to the other, it will be best to +note only the points in which they differ. In the west wall the window +in the second stage has no mullion, the innermost buttress is of the +same type as its next neighbour, and the parapet is returned over all +the buttresses, thus forming three 'turrets,' of which that nearest to +the nave rests partially on a large corbel. The staircase at the +south-west corner terminates at the top in a square turret with a +pyramidal stone cap. + +In the south elevation the doorway is very elaborate. The opening is of +the form sometimes called the shouldered arch, a square lintel (which, +curiously enough, is not one stone) resting on corbels; and the +semicircular arch over this is of four orders, the uppermost of which +projects considerably from the wall. On either side there are five +shafts, the outermost order having two, which are placed on the front of +the jamb and share one abacus. These two shafts are worked on the stones +of the jamb--a mode of construction not very common in such early +doorways. The details resemble those of the less elaborate doorway in +the other transept, but some of the foliage on the capitals here is +almost Early English. This doorway is approached by five steps, and was +once covered by a Renaissance porch. + + [Illustration: DOORWAY, SOUTH TRANSEPT.] + +In the windows of the second stage the abacus of the capitals is +continued as a string from window to window. The two flanking buttresses +have been crowned at some later period with gables ending in finials, +and the great gable is pierced with a Perpendicular window of three +lights, which has three transoms in the head, the mullions carried up to +the archivolt, and a dripstone ending in foliage. The sides of the gable +here do not take an upward turn to meet the corners, and there are no +flanking turrets. In the end of the aisle the blocked upper window is +pointed, and has a little trefoiled niche above and to the left of it, +and there is no thickening of the masonry above to necessitate +carrying-arches. The buttresses at the corner reach to the top of the +parapet and have no surmounting pinnacle. The small portion of the east +side of the aisle which is not concealed by the Chapter-house and +Lady-loft displays in the lower stage a somewhat inexplicable blind +arch, carrying an inclined thickening of the masonry that has been +afterwards built up to a level, and below the parapet a moulded cornice +like that on the north side of the church. This cornice is continued +within the Lady-loft, and reappears over the last bay of the +choir-aisle. + +=The Chapter-House.=--The south aisle of the choir is concealed by a wing +of three storeys, of which the lowest, though exposed to view by the +conditions of the site, is of the nature of a crypt, while the second +comprises the Chapter-house and vestry, and the third, known as the +Lady-loft, is an addition, probably of the fourteenth century. The first +two storeys seem to have formed part of a church earlier than Archbishop +Roger's,[43] and have been variously ascribed to Archbishops Thurstan +(1114-1141)[44] and Thomas of Bayeux (1069-1100).[45] From the east wall +of these two storeys an apse is thrown out, upon which rests a square +projection from the Lady-loft, too short to be called a chancel. The two +westernmost buttresses, up to the string above the crypt, are evidently +additions by Archbishop Roger, while the third, which completely encases +a three-sided apsidal projection at the corner of the vestry, is of much +later date and will be examined presently. Adjoining it is a flat +pilaster buttress, apparently original. The crypt has five unglazed +windows along the south side, all round-headed and plainly splayed, and, +where it joins the transept, there is a large rectangular squint which +gives light to a staircase that leads up to the Chapter-house. A pointed +doorway, made in later times, cuts into the fourth window from the west. +In the second storey there are on this side only four windows, which are +spaced without any regard to the position of those below. The two +westernmost, which are circular and without tracery--a type of window +that is somewhat rare--can hardly be later than the time of Archbishop +Roger, and may be earlier: the next two are square and of much later +date. Above the windows the eaves of the original roofs remain, +supported on a corbel-table which is carried round the apsidal chamber +at the corner and round the eastern apse. At the south side of the +latter the builders have left a narrow recess which extends from the +ground nearly to the top of the crypt. + +The apse displays in the lower storey a round-headed unglazed window +like those along the south wall, and in the upper storey a small +round-headed light at the south side and a larger window in the middle, +of the same size as that below, but not so deeply splayed, and with the +head rudely trefoiled. On either side of these central windows, a shaft, +made in short joints, runs up the apse from base to eaves. The string +between the two storeys is carried round these shafts, and their +circular bases overhang the plinth and rest on small blocks, while the +capitals are square-topped, as in Archbishop Roger's work. From the roof +of this apse and of the apsidal chamber at the corner, and from the +eaves that project along the south wall, it would seem that the whole +structure was roofed with stone at a steep inclination. Where its wall +joins the transept the stone-work seems to be of the same date on both +sides of the corner, so that there may have been an original buttress or +wall extending southwards from this point. + +The third storey is now the Cathedral library, but was originally the +=Lady-chapel=, and was commonly called the Lady-loft. Such a position for +a Lady-chapel--at the south side of the choir, and in an upper +storey--is extremely unusual.[46] Authorities have differed widely as to +its date. Some have assigned it to about 1482; but the Lady-loft is +clearly mentioned in the Treasurers' Rolls in 1470, and its +architecture, which is Decorated rather than Perpendicular, would be in +favour of ascribing it to the middle of the previous century, were it +not for a certain coarseness of execution which makes a suspension of +judgment advisable.[47] To support this additional storey, the two +western buttresses were carried up, diminishing both in projection and +in width, to within a few feet of the upper string-course. The huge +buttress at the corner was very possibly added later, to counteract a +settlement which is evident to anyone so standing as to bring the shafts +on the apse in line with the corner of the choir, and which was +doubtless due to the weight of the Lady-loft. This buttress is of the +same height as the others, but is broader, and has as many as seven +stages, the fourth of which is crowned by a truncated hip roof and +pierced with a slit to light the apsidal chamber within, from whose +sloping top the upper stages spring. Traces of some external means of +access to this apsidal chamber from below may be seen at the west side. +Except one small lancet adjoining this buttress, the windows of the +Lady-loft are square-headed, with mullions branching out into +intersecting arches whose cusps spring from the soffit independently of +the mouldings--an early feature; and the dripstones are square labels +terminating in foliage, but with the ends not returned. Altogether these +are more like the windows of a castle or manor-house than of a church. +The four towards the south are of three lights, but the east window has +five lights and is set higher in the wall, while its dripstone +terminates at one end in a grotesque sitting figure. Various gargoyles +project from the string-course, which rises to pass over the east +window. The angles of the east end seem to rest upon the very edge of +the cornice of the apse, and one wonders how the wall is supported along +the chord of the curve. In reality, however, the apse is not so sharply +curved internally as externally, and its walls are very thick, so that +the square form could be imposed upon the round without much +overlapping. The parapet shows the same wide merlons and cruciform +piercings which characterize the other Decorated parapets of the church, +and it may have been brought forward from the choir-aisle. + +The last bay of the latter displays a window like those on the north +side, but having foliage on the capitals of the shafts; and below the +parapet runs the cornice continued from the transept, with a curious +gargoyle upon it. Part of the base of Archbishop Roger's choir-aisle is +visible imbedded between this wall and the apse. + +Those parts of the church which were rebuilt after the collapse of the +south-east corner of the tower can be best examined from the roof of the +Lady-loft, which forms with the roofs of the aisles a level surface of +considerable extent. + +=The East Side of the South Transept= has three buttresses, crowned by +pinnacles of which the two nearest to the tower are modern. The central +buttress is much shallower than the others and has a different +termination. The clearstorey displays three well-arched windows of three +lights (the innermost window a little smaller than the others) with +tracery not unlike that in the south aisle of the nave. The parapet is +probably old Decorated work that has been used again, for it has the +wide merlons and cruciform piercings characteristic of early +battlements, and the Perpendicular pinnacles, it will be noticed, are +not in the middle of the merlons. The manner in which the corner of the +tower has been reconstructed is extremely interesting. Up the angle +formed by choir and transept runs a sort of excrescence of masonry that +blossoms out, so to speak, into an extraordinary complication of +corbelling near the top, and is itself corbelled away at the bottom. In +this excrescence, as elsewhere, old materials have been used again, and +in the projecting mass, at the level of both triforium and clearstorey, +are the springings of arches curving eastwards and southwards, which +suggest that the adjoining walls had at first been intended to be on a +more advanced plane, and that the arches of the triforium were to have +been round in the transept (where, by the way, they are recessed) as +they are in the choir. This angle contains the tower staircase, which is +lighted by a little window in the upper corbelling and is reached from +the clearstorey gallery of the transept. On this side of the church the +parapet walk has to be carried round the corners of the tower on +squinches. + + [Illustration: RECONSTRUCTED ANGLE OF THE GREAT TOWER, (SOUTH TRANSEPT + AND CHOIR.)] + +=The Central Tower. South and East Sides.=--The south and east faces are +each divided by a central pilaster running up to the top of the parapet, +but otherwise the general scheme is not unlike that of the older sides, +save that the windows here are set higher in the wall. Each window has +two lights, wide and low, with much tracery above them, in which the +mullion branches into two sub-arches; and there are dripstones ending in +heads. The high weathering on these sides indicates that it was not in +the Perpendicular period that the roofs of the church were so +unfortunately lowered. At either end of each of these sides a buttress +rises to the base of the parapet in three stages, the second of which +has on the front a panel with an ogee crocketed hood and is crowned by a +gable with a grotesque at each corner, while the third is narrower, +but is also panelled. Various gargoyles project from the uppermost +string, which on the east side is not broken by the central pilaster. As +this string is higher than the corbel-table of the older sides, the +tower presents a very curious appearance when seen from the south-west +or north-east.[48] The battlements and pinnacles were perhaps first +added when the south and east sides were rebuilt, but in places they +have been much renewed. The stair-turret is surmounted by a hexagonal +stone cap, which is pierced with a spire-light and crowned by a finial; +and there is also a wooden polygonal bell-cote at the north-west corner +of the tower. At the north-east angle the Perpendicular masonry turns +the corner and enfolds the Transitional buttresses, where it stops with +a jagged edge. This unfinished work has a considerable projection from +the Transitional walling, the intention having been, perhaps, to correct +externally the obliquity in the ground plan of Roger's tower;[49] it is +also corbelled away at the bottom, probably to afford freer passage +along the parapet walk and to avoid the necessity of a squinch. +Originally the tower had perhaps a low pyramidal roof without a parapet, +and then came several successive spires. The last of these, which fell +in 1660, is said to have been 120 feet high from the top of the tower, +and its disappearance has surely done more than anything else to spoil +the external effect of the building.[50] + +=The South Side of the Choir.=--Here the three westernmost bays are +Perpendicular and the others Decorated. The westernmost window is +smaller than the rest, and is of three lights, with the mullions carried +up through the head. The next two windows imitate in curvature their +Decorated neighbours, and are of four lights, with the central mullion +branching out to form two sub-arches, between which a foliated circle, a +feature not common in Perpendicular windows, is introduced into the +head. In the fourth bay the Decorated arch has been filled with +Perpendicular tracery, but the fifth and sixth windows remain in their +original beauty as on the north side, save that in the easternmost the +small circles have been mutilated and have lost their foliation. The two +flying buttresses resemble those on the north side, but from the points +where they meet the wall two pilasters run up into the parapet, which is +flush with them and is crowned by a plain coping, while beneath it is a +string, with gargoyles. Except at this end the wall, as in the +clearstorey of the nave, is not buttressed, notwithstanding the size of +the windows and their nearness together. + + [Illustration: FLYING BUTTRESSES, SOUTH SIDE OF CHOIR.] + +=The East End.=--The rebuilding of the east end of Archbishop Roger's +choir was probably the object of an indulgence of 1284 by Archbishop +Wickwaine, a brief of 1285 by Pope Celestine V., two indulgences issued +in 1288 and 1300 respectively by Archbishops Romanus and Corbridge, and +some credentials issued by the latter in 1302 for a collector of funds. +And yet it is hard to fix the date of the work with any exactness. It +had apparently not begun in 1286, for a mandate of Archbishop Romanus in +that year begins _Cancellus Rypon' ruinosus reparetur_; but it may have +been completed before the irruption of the Scots in 1318. Two +indulgences of Archbishop Melton, one of which is dated 1328, do indeed +allude to some "new work" as still unfinished, but this "new work" may +have been the repairs necessitated by the violence of the Scots.[51] The +east end of the Cathedral, then, recalls that period in our history when +Edward I. was wrestling with the Scottish problem, and was also carrying +into effect those lessons in representative government which he had +learnt from Simon de Montfort. + + [Illustration: THE EAST END.] + +The well-marked plinth of this east end has been already noticed. Either +corner of the choir contains a staircase, and is strengthened by a pair +of massive buttresses and crowned by an octagonal turret with a conical +stone cap and a finial. These buttresses have a projection of 8 feet, +rise to the top of the aisles, and are surmounted by gables with +finials, and at the north corner the gables and the coping of the aisle +are crocketed. At the south corner the upper part of the turret has +been used as a cell. It is lighted by a small slit and has a wooden +floor with a trap in it, from which a ladder once descended to the head +of the staircase; and at the west side, in the parapet of the aisle, +there is a garderobe seat. It would be interesting to know whether this +turret was a prison, or a place of penance, or whether it was occupied +by a watchman or sentinel, or, as is not improbable, by one of those +recluses who were so often attached to religious communities in the +middle ages. The central compartment is flanked by two huge buttresses, +which have a projection of 10 feet at the bottom and rise to the base of +the gable, or rather a little above it, in two stages only, the lower +stage reaching a little above the coping of the aisles, and both stages +are crowned by gables with finials.[52] The three compartments of the +front are on the same plane. Each aisle shows at the end a window of the +same pattern with these in the sides, and that in the south aisle has +foliage on the capitals of its shafts and is surmounted by a little +window of trefoil form which lights a staircase within, for staircases +ascend over these windows in the thickness of the wall and run up the +angles of the clearstorey. + +The great window in the central compartment is one of the finest +examples of Geometrical tracery, if not one of the largest windows, in +England. It is over 50 feet high, is 25 feet wide, and has seven lights. +Of these the three at either end are comprised under a sub-arch, in the +head of which are three cinquefoiled circles, while the central light of +the seven is surmounted by an arch, not so high as its neighbours, but +impaling upon its acute point a huge circle which fills the head of the +window and contains six trefoils radiating from its centre. The arch of +this superb window is rather acutely pointed and richly moulded, and has +two very slender shafts worked on the stones of either jamb, with +foliage on their capitals. Just above the ground below this window there +may be observed in the wall one of the many architectural puzzles in +which the Cathedral abounds, a half-arch, rising toward the right and +filled in with masonry, except at the right side, where is a narrow +opening that runs in for a few feet.[53] A string-course continued from +the sides of the aisles passes below the three windows and round the +buttresses, which are further relieved at a little height above it by a +set-off. The gable has been entirely rebuilt by Sir Gilbert Scott. It is +slightly set back, and displays a lofty window of four lights with +geometrical tracery not unlike that in the great window below. On either +side of this window there is panelling graduated to suit the triangular +space, and the gable is crowned by an elaborate cross and flanked by two +pinnacles which resemble those of the flying buttresses but are larger +and have foliage at the corners instead of heads. The original Decorated +gable was probably very much of this pattern. Its height was indicated +by the weathering on the tower, and it seems to have had flanking +pinnacles and graduated panelling. It had, however, been lowered in +pitch and had been altered also by the insertion of a rather debased +Perpendicular window.[54] Whatever may be thought, therefore, of Sir +Gilbert Scott's action in rebuilding it, he has surely improved the +general effect of the front, and it is well that one of the roofs, at +any rate, should have been raised to the original pitch. What is most to +be regretted, perhaps, is the removal of all traces, if any there were, +of the chantry of the Holy Trinity _supra summum altare_, which was +situated, as its name implies, in the roof, behind the old gable. + +In Archbishop Roger's day the choir was probably as long as it is now, +and Walbran (followed by Sir Gilbert Scott) believed that the aisles at +that period were returned across the east end. If so, the clearstorey +must have been a bay shorter than at present, with a pent roof +projecting from below it on the east side to cover the returned portion +of the aisle. The rebuilding of the east end in the Decorated period was +the first operation in which limestone was employed, but much of the old +gritstone has been used again. + + [Illustration: THE NORTH-WESTERN PORTION OF THE NAVE. + (Junction of XIIth and XVIth Century work.)] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[33] The name Ripon comes probably from the Latin _ripa_, "a river's +bank." Bede uses a form "Inrhypum," which arose perhaps out of _in +ripis_. The derivation _Uri pons_ has been generally abandoned. + +[34] The reason of the peculiarity here is the unusual width of the +nave. (_See below_, p. 44.) + +[35] This will be explained in Chapter III. + +[36] See illustration, p. 17. + +[37] This was pointed out by Walbran. + +[38] The Transitional or Transition-Norman work at Ripon probably was +not all erected during Roger's lifetime, but all of it will, in these +pages, be associated with his name. + +[39] Upon a modern Chapter seal there is what is possibly meant for a +representation of Roger's church, with western towers, three spires, and +no aisles. The seal is a reproduction of another of the time of James +I., which may have been reproduced from a third of earlier date. + +[40] For the origin and meaning of this knotwork, so often found in +these islands on ancient crosses, and for its value as an illustration +of the possible connection of Saxon architecture with the Comacine Guild +of Italy, see _The Cathedral Builders_, by Leader Scott, pp. 82-99, and +p. 145. + +[41] This was the case with all the windows of both transepts--in the +lower tier at any rate--until the last restoration. The reason why Sir +Gilbert Scott has left or renewed the mullions in some of the windows is +probably that he did not wish to disturb the memorial glass. + +[42] The suggestion was made by Mr. Francis Bond. + +[43] _I.e._, they were probably a Southern Chapel of the choir (_vid. +inf._, Ch. III.). It is doubtful whether this earlier choir itself can +have had a crypt. + +[44] By Sir Gilbert Scott. + +[45] By Walbran. + +[46] Lady-chapels are usually found at the extreme east end of the +choir, unless that position was wanted for the resting-place of a local +saint. + +[47] Walbran favoured 1482; Sir Gilbert Scott the middle of the +fourteenth century. + +[48] See the illustration, p. 2. + +[49] _The Builder_, February 4th, 1893. + +[50] This last spire must have been erected after all intention of +rebuilding the north and west sides of the tower had been given up, and +therefore (perhaps) after the dissolution. The three spires are shown +upon the seventeenth century communion plate and in several old prints +(see the illustration, p. 32). They were wooden and covered with lead, +and are represented as octagonal. The two at the west end are shown +without parapets at the base, and all three are without those sloping +spurs which so often connect an octagonal spire with the corners of the +tower. + +[51] Dean Waddilove, in his monograph on the Cathedral, mentions that +the date 1330 is to be found upon the choir, but he does not say where. +Walbran believed the work to have been executed between 1280 and 1297, +and is followed by Sir Gilbert Scott. + +[52] The buttresses of this east wall were formerly connected at the +bottom by a debased battlemented wall, and the space within was used for +sheds, the grooves for whose pent roofs can be seen on the sides of the +buttresses. + +[53] The arch springs from the buttress (as an excavation in 1900 +showed), and may perhaps be a relieving-arch, to take the weight off a +weak place in the foundations. Yet it was not intended, apparently, to +be filled up. The stones forming the right edge of the hole are coigns, +and have mason-marks on their sides. At the back of the hole the masonry +appears to be of some antiquity: may it be part of the foundation of the +east end of Archbishop Roger's choir? + +[54] There are several prints of the Cathedral, as it was before +restoration, in the Ripon Museum. + + + + + [Illustration: CONJECTURAL VIEW OF INTERIOR OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER'S NAVE + BY SIR G. G. SCOTT. + (By the kind permission of the Archaeological Institute.)] + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE INTERIOR. + + +=The Nave.=--On entering through the west doors a perspective is disclosed +of 133 feet to the end of the Nave, 170 feet to the Rood Screen, and 270 +feet to the end of the Choir. The Early English builders have preserved +two bays of Archbishop Roger's nave and have incorporated them into the +west towers,[55] and the two great tower-arches which they have cut +through the Transitional walling are very fine specimens of the Early +English style. Each of the half-pillars that support them is a cluster +of five large engaged shafts separated by very deep hollows, and upon +every shaft there is a large fillet, which is carried up into the +capital and down over the base. The base consists of two round mouldings +separated by a hollow and fillets, and overhangs the plinth so much as +to suggest that the floor just here has been lowered. The capitals and +the arches themselves (which are of three orders) are moulded with +rounds and hollows very strongly marked, and the hood of the southern +arch terminates eastwards in a bunch of foliage. + +The interior of the towers is more richly treated than is usual. Over +the tower-arch is a small arcade of four members with clustered shafts, +and with a string below, while the other three walls are plain up to the +windows, each of which is flanked, as on the exterior, by two blind +lancets. The arcading thus formed has clustered and banded shafts (not +detached), behind which ran a passage, now blocked, and below the sill, +and a little distance apart, are two strings, to the lower of which the +sills of all the windows save two descend in steps. The windows are not +splayed, and those which now look into the aisles are unglazed, and +their flanking lancets are of unequal width. All the arches are much +moulded and ornamented with the dog-tooth, and the central shaft of each +cluster has a fillet. In each corner a detached shaft springs from a +round corbel above the lowest string and rises to the impost of the +arches, being banded twice on the way; and from its capital another +shaft runs up to the ceiling. The doors to the spiral staircases open +into little square lobbies which have vaults with groin-ribs springing +from corbels.[56] In the north tower is a modern stained window of some +merit. + +The two bays of Archbishop Roger's work incorporated in the towers, +taken together with another Transitional bay at the east end, make it +possible to imagine the whole interior of what must have been the most +remarkable nave in England. It was unusually broad. From the ground to +the first string (about 16 feet) there was plain wall. Above this was a +triforium (if it can be so called[57]) of the unusual height of about 28 +feet, and there were thus no windows except in the clearstorey, and +there only in alternate bays. According to Sir Gilbert Scott the +triforium and clearstorey were probably continued across the west wall. +The bays were alternately broad and narrow, and there is room for five +of each sort. The westernmost bay shows in the triforium stage a round +arch comprising four pointed arches. Of these the two in the middle are +raised above the others on shafts of two stages, in the upper of which +the capital is circular and its moulding is continued along the tympanum +to the _apices_ of the two lower arches. The tympanum is relieved by a +sunk quatrefoil in a serrated circle, and so is the space under either +of the two central sub-arches. The passage in this bay has been built +up, and the bay itself shortened, probably when the tower arches were +made. + + [Illustration: CONJECTURAL PLAN OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER'S CHURCH BY SIR G. + G. SCOTT. See _p._ 16. + (By permission of the Archaeological Institute.)] + +In the adjoining narrow bay, the comprising arch is pointed, there are +only two sub-arches, and there are no quatrefoils, except in the +tympanum on the north side. Doors have also been inserted in this bay to +communicate with the passages behind the arcades in the towers. + +The shafts throughout are single, and (in the sub-arches) detached, and +the details generally are the same as in all Archbishop Roger's work. It +is worthy of remark that the tympanum over the sub-arches is flush with +the lower part of the wall, and that the comprising arches, with all the +walling above them, are a plane in advance. The more natural plan would +have been to make the comprising arch flush with the wall below, and to +have set back the sub-arches and tympanum. In consequence of Archbishop +Roger's arrangement the shafts of the comprising arch stand, not upon +the sill of the triforium, but upon corbels, each of which carries two +of them and also a roof-shaft[58] which forms with them a cluster. + +The clearstorey shows in the broad bay a stilted round arch, pierced, +between two small blind lancets, and in the narrow bay three small blind +lancets. These arches are not recessed or moulded, and are without +hoods, as usual. Their piers, behind which is a passage, are square, and +the impost moulding is continued as a string. + +The roof-shafts have a curious break in them at the impost-level of the +triforium, where a face is carved upon them with a band above it. They +are banded also by the impost-moulding of either storey, and by the +upper string-course, and end in square-topped capitals a little short of +the present roof. Throughout Archbishop Roger's church the roof was +probably flat, or slightly coved as at Peterborough. The corbels from +which the roof-shafts spring are moulded and finished off with scrolls, +and are placed at the level of the string-course, which is undercut; but +on either side of the tower-arches the shafts have been shortened to a +point above the string, which has been made continuous beneath them, and +instead of corbels they have grotesque heads carved upon their ends. +Beyond the westernmost roof-shaft there is a further shaft, which at +first sight seems to have been the beginning of another bay, but the +round moulding which rises from it runs up vertically instead of curving +over to form an arch. + +The western wall is far more impressive from within the church than from +without, and shows the Early English style at its best. The three +doorways have stilted segmental arches moulded with rounds, and their +hood-moulds are continuous. Their shafts are single and engaged, and in +the jambs are holes for the great bars which no doubt held the doors +against the Scots in 1318. But if the doorways are plainer, the great +lancets above are much richer, on this side than on the other. Their +arches have more mouldings, their hood-moulds as well as the +string-courses are enriched with the nailhead, the dog-tooth is used +more profusely, and the piers are clusters of seven engaged shafts +instead of five, banded at half their height and having behind them in +both tiers passages which formerly communicated with the towers. The +glass, by Burlison and Grylls, is worthy of its framing. It was put up +to the memory of the late Bishop in 1886. In the lower tier "the earthly +type" is represented by the Parable of the Ten Virgins. In the upper +tier, in which the various designs represent "the Heavenly type," the +Bride is the Church, and Our Lord is seen enthroned and surrounded by +choirs of angels. + +The yellow gritstone of the older work is contrasted curiously with the +white limestone of the Perpendicular nave, and at the junction the later +builders have left a jagged edge. Among very late Gothic buildings there +are few indeed which are of so good a quality as this nave of Ripon, +which, like the late church towers of Somerset, shows that mediaeval art +took long to die out in regions remote from London. It is, indeed, the +architecture of the days of Agincourt rather than of the eve of the +English Renaissance. The pillars are characteristic of the Perpendicular +style, their section being a square with a semi-circle projecting from +each side, and the corners hollowed. Their bases have complex plinths of +considerable height and are polygonal, but follow roughly the form of +the pillar, and the mouldings, as usual in this style, overhang the +plinth. The capitals, with small mouldings and many angles, are of +somewhat the same form as the bases. On the westernmost complete pillar +of the north arcade are two shields, charged respectively with the arms +of Ripon (a horn) and of Pigott of Clotherholme. The arches, instead of +being of that depressed form which is so common in late work, are very +beautifully proportioned, and their mouldings are bold, numerous and +well-cut. There is no triforium; but a passage, at a slightly lower +level than in Archbishop Roger's bays, runs below the great clearstorey +windows, which were once, no doubt, gorgeous with stained glass. Their +arches are moulded, but the splay is left plain. The roof-shafts, which +are in clusters of three and have fillets upon them, spring from +semi-octagonal corbels, and where each cluster passes the string-course +there is an angel holding a shield. A sign of decadence may be found, +perhaps, in the way in which the hood-moulds of the windows intersect +with these shafts. Though the two sides of the nave are not quite of the +same date, they are almost alike, but for some slight differences in the +capitals, the arch-mouldings, and the hollows on the pillars; the +builders feeling doubtless that any marked variation would mar the +general perspective--a consideration which, of course, could not bind +them in designing the north aisle. The original Perpendicular roof may +have resembled that which now covers the transepts. About 1829 Blore put +up an almost flat ceiling of deal. The present oaken vault, by Sir +Gilbert Scott, was copied from that of the transepts of York Minster, +and is adapted to the old roof-shafts, between which have been added +angel corbels of wood. As the ribs intersect near their springing, they +weave a network over the whole vault, and the carved bosses at the +intersections amount to 107. A passing notice is merited by the pulpit, +which is Jacobean. + + [Illustration: THE NAVE, LOOKING WESTWARDS.] + +East of the five Perpendicular bays remains the second fragment of the +old nave, namely, a portion of a broad bay, partly encased by the later +masonry, and one complete narrow bay. In the latter the tympanum on both +sides is relieved by a quatrefoil, which here is pierced and not +enclosed in a circle, and the last shaft eastwards (one of those of the +comprising arch) runs to the ground. Affixed to the north wall is an +eighteenth century monument to Hugh Ripley, last Wakeman and first Mayor +of Ripon (d. 1637). The original monument was destroyed during the Civil +War, but the altar-like erection below the present structure was +probably part of it. The roof-shaft west of this bay, for some unknown +reason, ends considerably short of the roof in a kind of corbel with +rude foliage upon it. In the south wall is a triangular piscina, which, +if it is of Roger's date, is among the oldest piscinae in the country. + + [Illustration: PLAN OF THE SAXON CRYPT. + (From drawings by Mr. W. H. St. John Hope and Mr. T. Wall.)] + +=The Saxon Crypt=, sometimes called =St. Wilfrid's Needle=.--From a +trap-door in the pavement below the piscina a flight of twelve steps +winds down into a flat-roofed and descending passage, 2-1/2 feet wide +and slightly over 6 feet high, which, running a few feet northwards and +bending at right angles round the south-west tower pier, extends +eastward for about 10 yards, with a descent of one step near the end, +and terminates in a blank wall. There is a square-headed niche at the +turn and a round-headed niche at the end, both meant, doubtless, to hold +lights. Three feet from the end a round-headed doorway, 2 feet wide and +over 6 feet high, opens northwards, with a descent of two more steps, +into a barrel-vaulted chamber, 11 feet 5 inches long from east to west, +7 feet 7 inches wide, and 9 feet 10 inches high. In the north wall of +this chamber, and approached by three rude steps, is the celebrated St. +Wilfrid's Needle, a round-headed aperture pierced through into a passage +that runs behind. This aperture was connected with one of those +superstitions that so often flourished before the Reformation in notable +centres of religion, and ability to pass through it or 'thread the +needle' was regarded as a test of female chastity; but it was, of +course, in the later middle ages that this superstition arose, and the +'needle' (or rather needle's eye) is evidently only one of the original +niches with the back knocked out. Of these niches (which again were +doubtless for lights) there are four in the chamber besides the +'needle,'--one in each wall,--and, like the niche, at the end of the +passage of entrance, they all have semicircular heads each cut in a +single stone. That in the west wall has a hole or cup at the bottom, +probably to hold oil in which a wick might float, while the others +(except the 'needle') have a sort of funnel at the top, doubtless to +catch the soot from lamps. In the east wall there is also a round-headed +recess of larger size, the meaning of which will be discussed later. An +excavation made in 1900 has lowered the earthen floor and revealed a +set-off running round the chamber,[59] and upon the ground at the east +end are traces of a later mediaeval altar, namely, a long stone parallel +with the east wall and having behind it a small rectangular enclosure +bounded by other wrought stones. Some of the latter were only laid bare +at the above-mentioned excavation, when, moreover, the enclosure was +found to be a pit containing bones, some of which had belonged to a man, +others to an ox, others to a bird. These were probably regarded as +relics, and may have been buried here at the Reformation for safety,[60] +but it is possible that they were placed here at an earlier period, and +that this is an instance of a relic-pit. Two other deposits have been +found in the crypt in modern times, one behind the niche in the south +wall of this chamber, the other behind the niche at the end of the +passage of entrance. Most of the bones in these deposits were human, but +one had belonged to an ox, another to a bird, another to a sheep, while +others could not be identified. These bones again were probably +'relics,' and had almost certainly been built up behind the niches at +the Reformation[61] for concealment. From the west end of the chamber +another doorway similar to the last opens, with an ascent of one step, +into a second chamber, 12 feet long from north to south, 4 feet wide, 9 +feet high, and roofed with a semi-vault rising eastwards, in which there +has been a square opening, probably for ventilation. At the north end a +flight of four steps, lighted doubtless from the square niche in the +west wall, ascends eastwards to the passage behind the 'needle.' Of +these steps the lowest occupies the whole width of the chamber, while +the second, on being cleaned at the time of the excavation +above-mentioned, was found to have its upper and western surfaces sunk +in the middle and traversed at one end by two parallel raised bands, and +to show traces of that yellow enamel-like substance with which, indeed, +the whole crypt seems to have been originally overlaid. In roof, width +and height the passage at the top of these steps resembles that by which +the crypt was approached, but it is spanned at the entrance by a round +arch, and gradually ascends, terminating in a staircase now blocked at +the fourth step (or perhaps the fifth, since one seems to have been +removed at the bottom), while in the roof may be traced the shape of the +long opening (rounded at the western end) through which these stairs +once led up into the church. From the point at which they are blocked +the distance to the arch that spans the passage is about 18 feet. It +will be noticed that the floor of this passage is level with the +'needle,' which on this side, moreover, has been broken through so as to +open out like a funnel. + + [Illustration: THE SAXON CRYPT, EAST END OF THE CENTRAL CHAMBER. + (St. Wilfrid's needle on the left.)] + +There is little doubt that this crypt is the work of Wilfrid. It +strongly resembles another at Hexham in Northumberland, which is almost +certainly his since it agrees with a description given by his +contemporary Eddius, and (more fully) by Richard, Prior of Hexham in the +twelfth century. As, therefore, Wilfrid is known to have built a church +in either of these places, and as the crypts remaining resemble each +other, and as that at Hexham is almost certainly his, it is natural to +conclude that this at Ripon is his also.[62] And the subject has had +fresh light thrown upon it as archaeology has progressed. It is thought +that the Romanizing party which prevailed at the Synod of Whitby +affected for its churches the Italian type,[63] one of the +characteristics of which was the _Confessio_, an underground chamber for +relics[64] situated under the high altar, and surrounded, except toward +the church, by a passage reached by steps from the body of the building, +whence, moreover, there were generally steps leading up to the floor of +the presbytery, and sometimes an incline stretching down to a window +that looked into the chamber below. Now the present entrance to this +crypt at Ripon is not original. To mention some of the evidences of +this, there are in the roof of the passage several tombstones (one at +the entrance and two beyond the bend) bearing incised crosses of the +thirteenth century, and 15 feet west of the doorway into the central +chamber there are signs that a cross-wall has been cut through. The only +part of the work, then, which is original is that which extends +eastwards of this point, and in Saxon times there was probably only one +entrance to the crypt, namely by the north passage; indeed, it seems +likely that the formation of an approach from the nave was +contemporaneous with the blocking of that passage, and that both +alterations were due to the incompatibility of the original disposition +of the crypt with the subsequent arrangements of the church above. Now +if that original disposition has been indicated correctly, the crypt +presented all the more important characteristics of a _confessio_. There +is the central chamber with a window looking into it (for this is the +probable explanation of the arched recess in the east wall),[65] and +there is the surrounding passage, which, however, is interrupted at the +south-west corner of the crypt in such a way that it is necessary to +pass through the chamber itself.[66] An excavation made in 1891[67] +failed to reveal any traces of a staircase at the east end of the south +passage, but as there are many instances in Italy of a _confessio_ +without a second stair, this failure is of little importance. If, then, +this crypt may be assumed to be a _confessio_, there follows a very +interesting consequence. The fact that the surrounding passage was +entered from the east, that it runs round the west and not the east end +of the central chamber, and that the blocked window (if such it be) is +in the east wall of the latter, indicates that the nave lay to the +east,[68] in other words, that the presbytery was at the west end of the +church. Such a position for the high altar is ultra-Roman, was already +being discontinued in Wilfrid's day, and had probably never been seen in +the north, unless here and at Hexham; all of which considerations, in +the light of the known bias and character of Wilfrid, are in favour of +the theory above propounded.[69] It is impossible to say with certainty +whether Wilfrid's presbytery was apsidal or square; and whether his +church had aisles or not.[70] + + [Illustration: CONJECTURAL PLAN OF THE CRYPT AND PRESBYTERY IN THE + TIME OF WILFRID, BY MR. J. T. MICKLETHWAITE, V.P.S.A. + (By permission of the Archaeological Institute.)] + +There remains the question whether this crypt was or was not under the +church of the monastery. In Leland's description of Ripon,[71] "the Old +Abbay of Ripon" is certainly represented as having stood on the site +which in Leland's time was occupied by the Lady-kirk, adjacent, that is, +to the west side of the street now called St. Mary-gate;[72] and it has +been argued with great ability[73] (on the supposition that "the Old +Abbay" means the Saxon Monastery) that this crypt, though almost +certainly Wilfrid's, was under a second church outside the monastery +wall.[74] It is, however, still possible to suppose that the site in St. +Mary-gate may have been that of the domestic buildings only, and that +the monastery church stood over this crypt; or that "the Old Abbay" +means the Scottish Monastery, the site of which was also probably not +far from St. Mary-gate and may have been confused by Leland with that +afterwards occupied by the Lady-kirk. Nor in any case, perhaps, are the +mere statements of Leland a sufficient foundation for the argument that +has been constructed upon them. Indeed, an elaborate _confessio_ like +this would hardly have been made for any church other than that of the +monastery. + +And if, after all, Wilfrid's monastery church stood above this crypt, +there arises a very interesting probability in connection with that part +of the south passage which extends 15 feet westward from the doorway +opening into the central chamber, namely that it was the original +burial-place of Wilfrid himself, whom Bede declares to have been laid +_juxta altare ad austrum_.[75] + +The position of the crypt suggests the history of the ground plan of the +Cathedral. After the destruction of Wilfrid's Church, the site of his +nave became that of the choir, and a nave was added westwards. Thus it +came about that the crypt is now in the centre of the building. The +central line or axis of the church in all stages of its history has +probably always passed over this crypt. + +=The Aisles of the Nave.=--As no aisles were contemplated when the west +towers were built, the east side of the latter shows, of course, the +same external decoration as the other sides. At the back of the +surviving portions of the old nave there may be seen at the western end +of either aisle one of Archbishop Roger's buttresses, and at the eastern +end a roughened surface where another buttress has been removed. The two +buttresses that remain have a large set-off near the bottom, and they do +not diminish as they ascend; while from their upper portions, which are +visible outside the church, it would seem that they rose to the very top +of the walls. At a little over 16 feet from the ground there remains +upon them a portion of an external string-course, which is not on a +level with any of those on the exterior of the transepts. Either aisle +opens into the transept with a massive arch resembling those of the +north main arcade, and has along the foot of its wall a bench table, +from which rise the vaulting-shafts. But though preparation had been +made for stone vaulting, the roofs were of wood until the last +restoration, when Sir Gilbert Scott put up the present stone groining. +The effect is good, but would have been better had there been ridge-ribs +and bosses. + + [Illustration: THE TWO FONTS, TWELFTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES.] + +=The South Aisle= contains the font, which was probably among the latest +additions to the church before the dissolution, and formerly stood at +the west end of the nave. This font is raised upon two circular steps, +and is octagonal and of blue marble, with the various surfaces of base, +stem, and bowl slightly hollowed. The sides of the bowl and also of the +base bear shields and lozenges alternately, and upon the base the +lozenges are richly carved. In a corner hard by stands another and much +older font--probably that of Archbishop Roger's church. It is a +circular basin, adorned with an arcade of trefoil arches.[76] + + [Illustration: BAS-RELIEF IN THE SOUTH AISLE OF THE NAVE. + (Reduced from a rubbing.)] + +Against the wall a little further eastwards is an altar-tomb of great +interest. The marble slab at the top has at one end a bas-relief +representing a grove, and in it a lion walking away from a man, who +kneels in an attitude of supplication with his back to the lion, while +between the two figures is a bird flying toward the man. Tradition says +that this is the tomb of an Irish prince who brought back from Palestine +a lion that had there become attached to him, but a story of this kind +was popular in mediaeval romances,[77] and the tradition, though of some +age, is not, perhaps, very probable. It has been well suggested that the +sculpture represents deliverance from a lion in answer to prayer; but as +it is possibly only part of a larger composition, its full meaning must +still be doubtful.[78] The work is rather Flemish in character, and may +be assigned to the fourteenth century, with which date the costume of +the man agrees. Thus the slab is considerably older than the wall to +which it is now affixed, and it is doubtless older than the lower part +of the tomb itself, which may be of the same date as the aisle. There +is a black-letter inscription upon the front of the structure, but it is +unfortunately quite illegible. An entry in the Chapter Acts[79] +indicates that this tomb was used as a money-table in business +transactions between the mediaeval townsmen. + +The windows have their sides moulded, but somewhat clumsily. That above +the font contains the only mediaeval glass in the Cathedral, a collection +of fragments chiefly of the fourteenth century. Most of these were +originally in the great window of the choir, where, being in the upper +tracery, they had escaped the violence of Sir Thomas Mauleverer's +troopers. Among the figures in the medallions are St. Peter, St. Paul, +and St. Andrew, and there is a fine shield of the arms of England, with +a border or mantling of France, and surmounted by a label of three +points azure.[80] The quality of the glass is exceedingly good, and the +window, when the sun shines through it, resembles a screen of gems, and +puts its neighbours to shame. The fourth window from the west, however, +by Clayton & Bell, is of considerable merit. The vaulting-shafts are in +clusters of three, and have overhanging bell-shaped bases with polygonal +plinths, while upon the capitals are angels bearing shields, one angel +to each cluster. The last two shields eastwards are charged respectively +with the arms of Archbishop Savage (1501-1507), and with the three stars +of St. Wilfrid. Where these shafts break the string-course under the +windows they are encircled by a thin band. Upon the eastern fragment of +the old nave there remains in this aisle another portion of Archbishop +Roger's external string-course, and also (near the last capital of the +arcade) some trace of a band of ornament. + +The western end of the =North Aisle= is the Consistory Court, and has been +used as an ecclesiastical court since 1722, when Ripon was still in the +diocese of York. Over the Chancellor's seat is a modern canopy of +stained deal, which formerly surmounted the throne in the choir. The +stone base of the railings, with its many projecting angles and its band +of delicate quatrefoils, is thought to have formed part of the shrine of +St. Wilfrid, and, having been found in fragments, was placed here by +Sir Gilbert Scott. In this aisle the sides of the windows are partially +panelled. The glass is of little interest, save that in the third window +from the west, by Burlison & Grylls, and a few seventeenth century +fragments. The vaulting-shafts here are single, and are half-octagons +with their sides slightly hollowed, and they again break the +string-course, which rises to pass over the doorway. Of the shields on +their angel capitals the three easternmost are charged respectively with +the arms of Fountains Abbey[81] (three horse-shoes), with those of +Cardinal Archbishop Bainbridge (1508-1514) (supported by _two_ angels), +and with the stars of St. Wilfrid. The arch opening into the transept is +not so high as in the other aisle, and upon the space above it are +portions of a once external string-course and buttress. + +=The Central Tower.=--It is from the interior of the church that the +extent of the repairs necessitated by the partial fall of the tower can +best be realized, and it is here that the documentary evidence for their +dates may best be summed up. The catastrophe itself is described in an +indulgence of 1450 by Archbishop Kemp, but the repairs had not advanced +much by 1459, for in that year a testator bequeaths money to this +object, "_cum fuerit in operando_." It would seem, however, from an +indulgence of Archbishop George Neville that the tower had been +partially repaired by 1465. After a bequest in 1466 (the last of a +series beginning in 1454), it seems to be next mentioned in the Fabric +Roll for 1541-2, and the Chapter Acts speak of the work that remained to +be done as late as 1545. The order, therefore, of the larger operations +in the Perpendicular period was probably as follows:--First the Canons +remodelled the two ruinous sides of the tower and the east side of the +south transept (where the work much resembles that in the tower), then +they rebuilt the nave,[82] then the western bays on the south side of +the choir (as the late character of the work itself would indicate),[83] +and lastly they were about to remodel the two remaining sides of the +tower when they were checked by the dissolution. + + [Illustration: THE WESTERN ARCH OF THE CENTRAL TOWER.] + +The planning of the Cathedral is remarkably irregular. Not only is the +axis of the choir, as in so many churches, inclined (here toward the +north) but the centre of the Rood Screen is south of the axis of the +nave, and the north side of the tower is not parallel to the south side, +the north-west angle being less than a right angle. This is the only +angle which remains in its original condition, and here the responds of +the two adjacent arches stand upon one circular plinth, their own bases +being, however, rectangular, though following in the upper mouldings the +forms of the shafts. The capitals of the latter are, as usual, +square-topped. The respond of the western arch has a semicircular shaft +upon the front, and a smaller shaft at the west side, where the pier is +twice recessed. The arch itself springs from the level of the top of +Archbishop Roger's triforium, is semicircular, and has more orders +toward the west than toward the east, but the mouldings (chiefly rounds) +are lacking in boldness, and the absence of a hood-mould (both in this +arch and the other) is a disadvantage. The other respond is concealed by +a huge Perpendicular casing, which, obtruding as it does into the arch, +is a very conspicuous object in the view from the west doors. Upon the +piers of this arch toward the nave are some curious brackets, which +probably supported the original rood-beam.[84] + +The northern arch springs from a higher level, and is less richly +decorated than the other, and its form is almost segmental. It has more +orders toward the south than toward the north, and again the mouldings +are chiefly rounds. Its western respond has a shaft on the front, and at +the south side another, which is banded at the springing-level of the +western arch and carried up to that of the northern arch, where it ends +in a three-sided capital, upon which stands another and very short +shaft, complete with base and capital, that carries the rim of the arch +and an angle of masonry that projects from the corner. The lower portion +of this respond is cased by a rectangular addition (almost as old as the +pier itself), which has upon the front a massive detached shaft with a +circular capital, on which stands a quaint figure of King James I., +brought from the screen of York Minster. To support an image of some +kind may, perhaps, have always been the purpose of this pillar. It has +been suggested that there is a similar projection concealed behind the +casing of the south-western pier. + +Over these two arches is a bold cornice, which possibly once supported a +ceiling, and the blind storey above shows in each wall two pairs of +plain lancets with the impost-moulding continued as a string, and with a +passage behind. In the third storey, where again there is a passage, the +two windows in each wall have a third arch (also round) between them, +and alternating with these three arches are little lancets which have +been blocked as far up as the imposts, their shafts having been first +removed. A cornice supports the ceiling, and on the west side there are +also some rather inexplicable corbels. + +The builders of this tower were certainly misguided in employing round +arches to support it, at a time when (as the choir shows) pointed arches +of considerable size were in common use, and it would seem that the +superior strength of the latter form was not yet fully realized. No +stronger specimens of that form are to be found, perhaps, than the +arches that support the two remaining sides. Their giant piers are +clusters of engaged cylindrical shafts with rounded hollows between, and +at each remodelled angle of the tower the two adjacent responds are +treated as one whole, presenting seven shafts almost on the same plane. +The bases, with their complex plinths and overhanging upper mouldings, +are over five feet high, and the capitals are polygonal, with small and +shallow mouldings, of which the lowest follows the form of the pier. +Slightly stilted, richly moulded, and of many orders, these arches are +so lofty as to leave no room for a blind storey above. Though the +windows here are set higher in the wall, their rear-arches reach down +nearly to the Transitional sill-level. Between the two windows in either +wall a shaft springs from an angel corbel at the string-course below the +sills, and runs up in a kind of groove, and these two shafts, with +another which springs from the junction of the two great arches, end +short of the present ceiling in semi-octagonal capitals, while on the +east wall, and at a lower level, there are more corbels. Indeed, from +the various corbels and shafts in this storey it would seem that the +level of the ceiling had been altered, possibly more than once, and +perhaps that it was destined to be altered again when the remodelling +should be complete. The present ceiling, flat and painted with good +effect, was put up by Sir Gilbert Scott. + +=The Transepts.=--The length of either transept is 43 feet, and that of +both together (including the crossing) is 134 feet, or about the same +as the length of the nave. In the transepts and choir the relative +proportion of the three storeys or stages to one another, which in the +nave was so remarkable, becomes more ordinary, and the change in the +level of the triforium passage--due to the heightening of the lowest +stage to meet the exigencies of aisles--necessitates long staircases +(now blocked) behind the western piers of the tower: and the same is the +case (though in a less degree) with the clearstorey, which in this part +of the church is loftier, instead of being shorter, than the triforium. +In either transept a bench-table runs along the west wall, and the large +lower windows are plainly splayed, but have their sills stepped. The +glass in them is bad, except some seventeenth century pieces in the +window over the north door. The roof, which is of oak, and +Perpendicular, had been concealed in the time of Blore by sham Norman +vaulting constructed of _papier mache_. Sir Gilbert Scott removed this +abomination and exposed the old ceiling, which he repaired and partially +renewed. It is almost flat, is raised on wooden figure-corbels, which +prevent it from intersecting with the tower arches, and is adorned with +judicious colour. + +=The North Transept=, which is 34 feet wide, or 52 feet if the 'aisle' be +included, is almost as its builders left it, and is among the most +famous examples of the architecture of the age of Henry II. and Thomas a +Becket, when the early English style was being developed from the +Norman. As the details are the same here as in all Archbishop Roger's +work, they need no further description. To take the west and north walls +first, the Perpendicular arch opening into the aisle of the nave cuts +into two blocked round arches, of which that on the right was a window, +while that on the left is backed by the old nave wall; and in this first +bay (which is narrower than the others in both this and the opposite +wall) the triforium arches are blocked up, as well as the first lancet +in the clearstorey, where there is moreover no window. Each bay shows in +the triforium two pointed arches with a pierced quatrefoil between them, +and in the clearstorey a stilted round arch, pierced and glazed, between +two smaller arches of lancet form, which on the north wall are very +curiously barred across at the impost level, the _abaci_ of two shafts +being formed by one slab. + + [Illustration: THE NORTH TRANSEPT.] + +The east wall is much more richly treated, and harmonizes in design with +the choir. It might perhaps be more proper to describe the aisles of +these transepts as a series of eastern chapels. Their floor is raised +two steps above the body of the transept, from which they were evidently +once railed off, and in either transept the two outer bays are walled +off from that nearest to the tower. At any rate the arches here have the +appearance of independent units rather than of a continuous arcade. +Separated by roof-shafts of unusual bulk, their responds consist each of +three engaged shafts with a fourth to carry the aisle-vault; and the +bases, rectangular but with the upper mouldings following the pillar, +are united with those of the roof-shafts, while the capitals as usual +are square-topped. The actual arches are of two orders, each of which +has the edge-roll, while under the soffit, which is flat, is another +roll between two mouldings that are hook-shaped in section. The arch +nearest to the tower has given way slightly and has been blocked up, +apparently not very long after it was built, for in the blocking wall is +an acutely-pointed and thrice-recessed doorway of decidedly early +character, and the material throughout is gritstone. The wooden doors +are probably Perpendicular work. + +Adjoining this doorway is a Perpendicular stone pulpit, which has a base +but no stem, and is ascended by means of three steps only. It has five +sides, and is covered with rich panelling, but the top has apparently +been taken off. This may not indeed be its original position,[85] yet it +was a mediaeval custom to deliver the sermon just as the procession was +about to enter the choir, and this pulpit is most conveniently placed +for such a purpose. If this is not its original position, it may perhaps +be identified with a nave pulpit mentioned in the Chapter Acts. + +On this east side the triforium shows in each bay a semicircular arch +comprising two pierced lancets and flanked by two blind lancets, with a +quatrefoil pierced through the tympanum under the comprising arch, an +arrangement that is the germ of tracery. Here there is no passage in the +thickness of the wall, as there was an open gallery over the aisle until +the external roof was lowered and the back of the arches blocked. + +In the clearstorey the shafts of the round arch in each bay are doubled, +each couple sharing a common plinth and capital, from which latter +springs a tiny shaft that carries the edge-roll of the arch; and the +lancet arches also, where they adjoin the solid piers between the bays, +have a shaft in the jamb. On all three walls the shafts in this storey +stand on a kind of kerb or parapet, which is interrupted in the middle +of each bay, and the stilt of the round arch is treated almost like a +classical entablature, and has a moulding or cornice above it, while the +uppermost part of the wall is thickened, thereby necessitating over each +bay a comprising arch, which on the north wall is round, but on the +other walls follows the shape of the three sub-arches, and forms a kind +of upper order to them. + +The roof-shafts, which do not break the string-courses, spring from very +various levels: on the east side from the ground, and on the north side +from the unusually high level of the second string, while on the west +side one cluster rises from the first string and the other from above +the second string (having perhaps been shortened in the last case to +make way for the Perpendicular arch beneath). On the east and west walls +these shafts are of a thickness which, besides being out of proportion +to the other parts of the architecture, is structurally unnecessary, for +they do not directly support the roof at all, but end at the top of the +triforium in triple capitals, of which the central member is square and +the others round. Upon each of these capitals, stand three detached and +much thinner shafts--namely, that which really carried the roof-beams, +and those (adjacent to it) of the arches that carry the above-mentioned +thickening of the wall. Thus is afforded a striking instance of the +tendency, so often exemplified in Archbishop Roger's work, to use two +shafts, one on the top of the other, instead of prolonging one--a +tendency which marks the organic development of the style as still +incomplete. On the north wall the three shafts in each cluster are +carried up from their corbel to the top in one piece, unbroken save by a +band at the impost level of the triforium and another at the third +string, and they seem detached throughout their height both from the +wall and from each other. At each corner of the transept the thickening +of the wall over the clearstorey arcade is carried by a shaft which +rises from the bench-table or the ground. + +The roof is entirely modern, and the shields on its corbels bear the +arms of the chief promoters of the last restoration. + +Against the north wall is a fifteenth century altar-tomb, covered with +inferior panelling and shields of arms, and surmounted by the figures of +Sir Thomas and Lady (Eleanor) Markenfield; and adjoining this tomb +(which formerly stood within the aisle) is the lid of a thirteenth +century stone coffin on the floor. In the aisle stands another +altar-tomb, which has the sides panelled and adorned with shields of +arms and bears the figure of an earlier Sir Thomas Markenfield, clad in +armour of the period between Poitiers and Agincourt, and wearing a very +curious collar of park palings with a stag couchant in front, possibly +(as has been suggested) a badge of adherence to the party of Lancaster. +The figure of Lady Markenfield has, unfortunately, been destroyed.[86] + +The aisle is often called the Markenfield Chapel, and doubtless +contained the Markenfield family chantry, which seems to have become +afterwards merged in another foundation.[87] The two bays were +apparently once walled off from each other, the dividing wall having +perhaps been removed to make way for this Markenfield tomb. At any rate, +between the bays of the vaulting there is a plain cross-arch of +remarkable thickness, whose eastern respond is cut off above the tomb, +as are also the two adjacent vaulting-shafts, which have had heads +carved upon their ends. The south wall is probably original, since (to +mention one reason) part of the string-course upon it is worked on the +same stone with the vaulting-shaft. The lower parts of the walls display +traces of a design in red representing round arches interlaced. In the +north wall there is a square aumbry, and in the south wall a large +piscina, with trefoil head and projecting basin. If this piscina is +original, it is a very fine specimen for so early a date. A huge +eighteenth century monument to Sir Edward Blacket of Newby almost covers +the southernmost window, but the remaining two contain glass of some +merit, which in that facing east commemorates the recovery from fever of +King Edward VII., then Prince of Wales. The vaulting springs from single +cylindrical shafts, which rise from the ground and do not interrupt the +string-course. Their bases have three-sided plinths, and their capitals +are enriched with stiff foliage and are three-sided above. + +The vaulting, which is apparently original, deserves especial notice. +Its bays are square, and the groin ribs consist each of three round +mouldings, of which the most prominent is 'keeled';[88] but what is most +remarkable is that there are also ridge-ribs, which are not usually +found before the thirteenth century, and it has been suggested[89] that +this is the earliest instance of their employment. There are also +wall-ribs, and these and the ridge-ribs are much thinner than the +groin-ribs, and consist of a single roll only. + + [Illustration: VAULT OF THE NORTH TRANSEPT AISLE, TWELFTH CENTURY.] + +=The South Transept= is narrower than the other by a yard, its width being +49 feet to the aisle wall (which, it should be noticed, has not been +rebuilt). Without the aisle the width is only 30 feet, but this is +partly due to the Perpendicular alterations. The end and west side of +this transept, which remain more or less as they were in Archbishop +Roger's day, resemble the corresponding walls of the other, yet with the +following differences. The roof-shafts on the west side are thinner here +than there, and are carried up to the required height in one piece, +unbroken save by the string-courses. + +In connection with the attachment of shafts of any considerable height +to wall-surfaces in Archbishop Roger's work, it will be observed that +though the shafts (according to the general practice of masonry) are +usually made in short joints built in at the back, yet (as here) their +jointing sometimes does not harmonize with the coursing of the wall; +again (as in the old nave and north transept) the shafts of a cluster +are sometimes not worked all on the same stones. + +To return to the differences of this transept from the other, the +roof-shafts over the inserted Perpendicular arch (which here obtrudes +into the triforium) descend no lower than the sill of the clearstorey. +Again, the thickening of the walls at the top is supported in the +south-west angle not by one shaft but by two, one of which stands on a +projecting strip of masonry that runs up the angle to the triforium. The +design of the eighteenth century monument against the south wall, to Mr. +Weddell of Newby, is taken from that of the choragic monument of +Lysicrates at Athens. + +On the east side, which has been entirely remodelled in the +Perpendicular period, the bay next to the tower displays from the ground +to the triforium a plain surface broken only by a pointed doorway +surmounted by three cinquefoiled niches with ogee crocketed hoods. The +doorway retains its original doors with an ornamental iron scutcheon +over the keyhole. In their great strength, and in their treatment +generally, the two arches opening into the aisle resemble the +Perpendicular arches of the central tower. The triforium stage is +exceedingly poor, and shows traces of more or less modern disfigurement. +Each bay contains a single arch which does not occupy the whole space, +and which is surmounted by a hood-mould and divided into two sub-arches, +but without cusps. Here again the arches were once pierced through to a +gallery over the aisle, as the exterior of the wall plainly shows; and +this seems to indicate either that the external roof had not been +lowered when these Perpendicular repairs took place, or that possibly +the two lower storeys of Archbishop Roger's wall were left standing, and +have been, not rebuilt, but cased. The appearance of the wall externally +suggests that these arches may have once been round, and the unusual +bulk of the two aisle-arches seems further to support the theory of a +'casing.' In the clearstorey the windows have hood-moulds, but otherwise +are treated much as in the nave. The southernmost contains a fragment of +old glass, bearing the words 'Jhesu mercy.' Along the sill of the +passage may be seen the stumps of uprights which may perhaps have +supported a rail. The roof-shafts are clustered and extremely thick, and +appear the more awkward in that the wall and the shafts with it are set +back at the base of the triforium. In this transept the ceiling is old, +and among the heraldic devices carved upon it are those of the church +itself, St. Wilfrid, the See of York, the Pigotts, the Nortons, and +Fountains Abbey. + +The aisle, the walls of which have not been rebuilt, and which has a +chequered pavement of uncertain date, was for some centuries the +burial-place of the owners of Studley Royal, and is often called the +Mallory Chapel. A curious recess in the south wall is concealed by the +monument of John Aislabie of Studley, Chancellor of the Exchequer at the +time of the South Sea Bubble, and against the north wall is a monument +to that Sir John Mallory of Studley who defended Skipton Castle for +Charles I., and delivered Ripon from Sir Thomas Mauleverer. There is a +square aumbry to the right of this monument, and in the next bay +another, divided by a stone shelf and having modern doors with +ornamental iron-work. The northern bay is almost wholly occupied by a +stone staircase leading up to two doors, one of which opens on the left +into a chamber now containing the bellows of the organ, while the other +opens into the Lady-loft or Library. Over the latter door and over the +Mallory monument will be observed traces of two original windows, which, +before the erection of the Lady-loft, admitted doubtless whatever light +was not blocked out by the old roof of the Chapter-house. On this wall +hangs a royal escutcheon bearing the motto of James I. The vaulting is +Perpendicular, but two of the original supports remain on the east side. +The shaft in the south-east corner resembles those in the Markenfield +Chapel, save that its capital has no foliage; but between the two bays, +instead of two shafts flanking the respond of a thick cross-arch, there +is a cluster of three detached shafts, banded at the string-course, and +sharing a common capital with a semi-octagonal top. It would seem, +therefore, that the two bays here were never walled off from one +another.[90] At the north-east corner the vaulting springs from a +Perpendicular corbel. Its moulded ribs are exceedingly ponderous, and +one of them, not having room to descend upon the pillar, is finished off +with a head. The present Library staircase was put up by Sir Gilbert +Scott in place of an older flight attached to the north wall, and upon +the latter may be seen (behind the stairs) traces of mural paintings in +red and green, representing the Adoration of the Magi and other +subjects. The archaic character of these paintings indicates the age of +the wall, which, nevertheless (unlike the corresponding wall in the +Markenfield Chapel), seems to have been an afterthought, since it +differs from the other walls in the coursing of the stone and in the +pattern of the string-course, and, moreover, at its northern end there +is a 'straight joint,' visible in the choir-aisle. + +=The Rood Screen=, according to Sir Gilbert Scott, is of a date a few +years earlier than 1494, but, if so, it has taken the place of another, +which is mentioned in the Fabric Rolls as early as 1408.[91] The general +design is that of an arched doorway with four large niches on either +side, and a tier of twenty-four small niches over all. The doorway, +which retains its original panelled doors, has three shafts in either +jamb, and is surmounted by a crocketed ogee hood, under which is a +sculpture representing the First Person of the Trinity with attendant +angels. A figure of the Saviour evidently once rested, as Walbran +noticed, upon the knees of the central Figure; above whose head or +shoulder, moreover, there was doubtless once a representation of the +Holy Dove. The niches again have crocketed ogee hoods, and in the lower +tier contain pedestals bearing shields charged with the arms of the +Pigotts and other benefactors, while the sill of the last at either end +of this tier is considerably raised, and the space below panelled. The +niches contain ribbed vaults, and are cinquefoil, with feathered +cusping, and their hoods are prolonged so as to divide the members of +the upper tier into pairs; while from the sides of these hoods, from the +buttresses, and from the curve of the doorway, thin strips of stone, +adorned with knobs that distinctly add to the effect, are carried up to +the cornice, along which runs a row of shields bearing traces of colour. +In the lower part of the screen the spaces between the strips and under +the hoods are filled with tracery. The screen is 12 feet thick, and in +the passage through it are two doors, that on the right opening into a +winding staircase to the loft above, and that on the left into a deep +pit, which once communicated, it is thought, with the north passage of +the Saxon crypt. + + [Illustration: THE ROOD SCREEN.] + +=The Choir.=--The choir extends 92 feet eastward from the screen. Its +width is 33 feet between the columns, or 68 feet if the aisles be +included. A notable peculiarity in it is, that after the lowering of the +aisle-roofs externally, the triforium was glazed, so that there are two +tiers of windows above the main arches.[92] Many styles meet here. The +first three bays on the north side are Archbishop Roger's work, while +the three opposite are Perpendicular, and lastly, the three easternmost +bays on either side are chiefly Decorated. + +To begin with the north side. The arch in the first bay has been built +up, probably to strengthen the tower, and by the twelfth-century +builders themselves, for the abacus-moulding of the capital is continued +across the blocking wall. In the latter the fifteenth-century builders +have made a small pointed doorway, which is now blocked but apparently +once gave access from the top of the screen to a staircase in the north +aisle. This and the two next bays bear in all three stages a general +resemblance to the east side of the north transept. The columns, +however, are clusters of eight cylindrical shafts, and stand upon +circular plinths, the base proper following, of course, the form of the +pillar. The capitals, as usual, are compound and composed of plain +inverted bells, and have square tops with the abacus hollowed and +grooved. The arches differ from those in the transept only in that the +large moulding under the soffit is 'keeled,' and that the mouldings +which flank it are simple ridges. In the triforium the cusps visible in +the glazed sub-arches belong to some tracery which has been applied to +the back at a later period. + + [Illustration: THE GREAT EAST WINDOW.] + +The treatment of the vaulting-shafts is very remarkable; indeed, nothing +is more instructive than the variety shown in the treatment of this +feature throughout Archbishop Roger's church, the different parts of +which are suggestive of nothing so much as of a series of architectural +experiments. Here, upon the capital of each column, rests a sort of +compound rectangular plinth, from which project three corbels, hollowed +underneath and having little blocks beneath their overhanging edge. From +this plinth and corbels springs a cluster of no less than five shafts, +which, by their united width, conceal the springing of the upper order +of the main arches. They are banded at the string-course below the +triforium, and end at the sill of the clearstorey in a compound capital, +of which the three central members are square, and the others round. +Upon this capital, apparently, stand the two adjoining shafts that carry +the thickening of the wall above the clearstorey, and here (but hidden +by the vaulting) stands also the original roof-shaft, and these three +are 'detached.' Thus the arrangement is in principle similar to that +adopted in the north transept, while at the same time the clustered +shafts are even more disproportionate here than there to the slight +burden they have to carry; indeed the effect is that of five shafts +diminishing to one. The vaulting hides a feature which is not found in +the transept, namely, a little lancet arch whose apex comes exactly +behind the roof-shaft in each bay. + + [Illustration: BAY OF ARCHBISHOP ROGER'S CHOIR (WITHOUT THE VAULTING). + (From a drawing by Sir G. G. Scott, by permission of the Archaeological + Institute.)] + + [Illustration: DECORATED CAPITAL IN CHOIR.] + +Though the three eastern bays (still on the north side) are chiefly +Decorated, portions of Archbishop Roger's work have been retained or +used again. Thus the fourth column from the west is his, and perhaps the +fifth up to the abacus, which is convex and of limestone. The respond +against the east wall is of his pattern, but it has not the circular +plinth, and the capital is of limestone, has the abacus moulded with +rounds upon the edge, and is covered with delicate foliage in the +Decorated manner. In these arches the lower order has exactly the same +mouldings as in the western bays, and is of gritstone, while the upper +order is of limestone, and has fillets upon the larger mouldings. It +would seem, therefore, that the later builders have used the original +archivolts again, and have merely added another order or orders over it. +The plane of the wall above, indeed, is brought forward to the face of +Archbishop Roger's vaulting-shafts: yet without being really thickened, +since it is set back from his wall on the exterior. At the junction of +the old vaulting-shafts with the additional order of the first Decorated +arch the later builders have carved a group of grotesque faces. In each +bay of the Decorated triforium there is a round arch filled with tracery +consisting of three round-headed and trefoil lights with two circles +enclosing trefoils above them; and on either side of this arch (but on +one three only, in the first of the side bays) is a sunk lancet panel +enclosing a pointed arch impaling a trefoil. The clearstorey has a +second plane of tracery, a feature not very common in England. The +vaulting-shafts are in clusters of three and are filleted, and the +string-course below the triforium is not carried round them. Each +cluster springs from a semicircular corbel resting on a head, and has +its capitals enriched with foliage. The last pendentive of the vaulting +rests on a single shaft springing directly from a head-corbel. The +string-courses are not of the same pattern with those on the older bays. + + [Illustration: THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CHOIR. + (Junction of Transitional and Decorated work.)] + +On the south side the westernmost Perpendicular bay, up to the +triforium, is solid and covered with cinquefoil panelling. In the next +two bays the mouldings of the arch, among which a broad hollow is +conspicuous, are continued down the column, and there is no capital--a +sign of decadence more common in the Flamboyant work of the Continent +than here. There is, however, a debased half-capital on the east side of +the last Perpendicular column, and on the west side of it are three +small heads at the impost-level. These columns are lozenge-shaped in +section, wider from north to south than from east to west, and though +the mouldings end before they reach the bottom of the column, there is +no proper base. Each column has a shaft at the front and another at the +back, the former carrying the rim of the arch and having a stilted +polygonal base but no capital, while the latter has capital as well as +base (both polygonal), and helps to carry the aisle-vault. The spandrels +of these arches are filled with panelling, in which are several shields +(one bearing the arms of Pigott). The triforium again shows in each bay +a round arch; indeed, no better example than this choir could be found +of the truth that the form of the arch is not a safe guide to the date +of a building, but was often dictated by convenience; for here in the +triforium are round arches, of which some belong to the twelfth, others +to the thirteenth, and others to the sixteenth century. The fact that +the distance between the string-courses was already settled by the +Transitional bays, compelled the later builders to make their arches +round, as a pointed arch of the requisite width would have been too +tall. Here the round arch, which is again flanked by two panels, +comprises three cinquefoil lights, and the mullions are carried up +through the head. The panels are pointed and divided each into two +cinquefoil divisions. The Perpendicular clearstorey windows have their +rims moulded, but are not splayed. The vaulting-shafts resemble those in +the Decorated bays, but their corbels are polygonal and have the sides +slightly hollowed, and the abacus of the capital is a half-lozenge. The +string-courses have not been made to match either the Transitional or +the Decorated. The whole of this Perpendicular work is of very late +character, and justifies the belief that it was the last important +alteration in the fabric before the dissolution. Moreover, where it +meets the tower there seems to be a 'straight joint,' which indicates +that these bays are at any rate later than the tower piers. + +East of the Perpendicular pillars the next column is Archbishop +Roger's, and perhaps the next also, with the exception of its capital, +which has two rings upon the necking, with the rectangular top imposed +directly upon them and chamfered beneath, while the abacus (which is of +limestone) is convex.[93] The respond against the east wall is again of +the old pattern, but without the circular plinth, and its capital +resembles that just described. In the westernmost of these southern +Decorated bays three styles meet. The lower order of the arch seems +again to be Transitional work, while in the triforium and clearstorey +Decorated arches have been filled with Perpendicular tracery. In the two +remaining bays the main arches are entirely Decorated, the lower order +being of limestone and the large moulding under the soffit having a +fillet. Over the last two complete columns there is a little foliage, +and of the corbels of the vaulting-shafts one is enriched with foliage +while the other consists of a head between two embracing figures. There +is foliage upon the capitals of these vaulting-shafts, and upon the +capital and base of that which supports the last pendentive of the +vaulting. With the exceptions mentioned, these bays resemble those +opposite. + +It has been remarked that the choir was probably as long in the twelfth +century as it is now. The point is indeed proved if (as there seems no +reason to doubt) the last complete column on either side is original and +occupies its original position; but a further indication is to be found +in the fact that the fragment of the original south wall, the end of +which is visible on the exterior between the south aisle and the apse, +extends well into the last bay of the present choir.[94] + +The huge east window, which is not splayed, has a deep rear-vault +bounded by a massive rib, whose outer edge rests on slender engaged +shafts with foliage on their capitals, while the inner edge ends in +bunches of foliage. Between this rib and the tracery is another rib +springing on the north side from a bunch of foliage and on the south +from a grotesque corbel. The inner arch has slender shafts, and so has +the moulding next to the tracery, but in the latter case the capitals +are plain.[95] Few acts of vandalism are more to be regretted, +probably, than the destruction in 1643 of the magnificent fourteenth +century glass which once occupied this window. The present very poor +glass, by Wailes of Newcastle, commemorates the revival of the see of +Ripon in 1863. + + [Illustration: A Bishop and a King.] + + [Illustration: The Expulsion from Paradise. + BOSSES FROM THE CHOIR-VAULT.] + +Over the window may be seen the mark of one of the earlier roofs. The +choir is thought to have received a groined vault of oak after the +rebuilding of the east end, but this vault was probably renewed more +than once, especially after the accident to the tower about 1450, and +the fall of the spire in 1660. Sir Gilbert Scott found a vault of lath +and plaster (probably the work of Blore) for which he substituted the +present roof, a groined wooden vault, admirable in its lofty pitch and +judicious colouring. Its chief feature, however, is the splendid bosses +along the ridge, which are survivals from either the Decorated or a +subsequent Perpendicular vault. In some of these bosses the figures are +five feet long. + + From west to east the subjects are as follows: (1) A head; (2) an + angel, with foliage; (3) a head; (4) a man conducting a woman to a + church door; (5) a bishop in benediction; (6) a king enthroned; (7) + a bishop enthroned; (8) a king and a bishop enthroned together; (9) + the Crucifixion (modern); (10) the Annunciation; (11) the expulsion + from Paradise; (12)? the good Samaritan; (13) a head. + +There are also good foliage bosses against the walls between the +pendentives. The westernmost pendentive on either side rests on a +Perpendicular corbel carved with delicate foliage. + +The general arrangements of the presbytery have been much changed since +the middle ages. The altar then stood against a screen one bay in +advance of its present position, and the iron hooks upon the second +complete column from the east end on either side held, it is supposed, +the Lenten Veil. Before the last restoration the altar stood, as now, +against the east wall (on a single step, however), but the Sanctuary +still extended two bays westward and was three steps above the rest of +the choir, which was all on one level. Since then the floor has been +raised one step at the east end of the stalls, and the steps to the +Sanctuary have been diminished by one, while there are now two steps to +the altar, and the Sanctuary and the raised portion of the choir have +received an inlaid marble pavement. The reredos, an arcading of slender +arches each enclosing a trefoiled arch impaling a trefoil, is a +restoration of the original Decorated work. The latter had been covered +by a painted screen of wood--possibly of late mediaeval workmanship--and +this again by a huge oil-painting of the time of Charles II. Both were +removed to make way for a high reredos by Blore, which in its turn was +taken down by Sir Gilbert Scott.[96] On the pavement south of the altar +is a piscina, which (if this be its original position) must have +belonged to a chapel or chantry behind the high altar--possibly the +chantry of the Holy Trinity _subtus altare_.[97] From its position it +would seem that in those days the floor here was considerably lower than +it is now. + + [Illustration: THE SEDILIA.] + +=The Sedilia.=--The last bay on the south side is now occupied by three +sedilia and a piscina, which form one block. As might be expected from +the mediaeval position of the altar, they once stood in the second bay +from the east, and they were not removed to their present position until +the last restoration. Sir Gilbert Scott considered them late Decorated +work, but they have rather the appearance of late Perpendicular. Over +each seat is an ogee canopy, cinquefoil, crocketed, and surmounted by +a huge finial. These canopies rest on square pillars, the sides of which +are adorned with a sort of 'four-leaved flowers,' while the capitals are +encircled with foliage in which are animals and monsters. Each pillar is +surmounted by a pinnacle, and behind each canopy rises a crocketed +gable, again crowned by a huge finial. The gables, the pinnacles, and +the tops of the canopies are the work of Sir Gilbert Scott, who found +the sedilia in a mutilated condition. Below the seats and the piscina +runs a chamfer with 'four-leaved flowers' along it, and below this are +panels enclosing trefoils containing faces. But the most curious feature +of these sedilia is not perceived until a glance is given beneath the +canopies. The carved ends of the cusps are in reality the heads of +extraordinary grotesques whose bodies are curled up against the under +surface of the arch. Some of these figures, in addition to their proper +physiognomy, have faces carved on the crowns of their heads. The +piscina, which has been converted into a credence table, has another +ogee canopy, and is backed by a wall, along the top of which runs a band +of foliage that is continued round the top of a square pillar at the end +of the block. + +The fine oak chairs in the Sanctuary are of modern construction but of +old material, while the rails, lectern and pulpit are all modern.[98] + +In the four easternmost bays the choir is separated from its aisles +(except where the sedilia already block one arch) by elaborate oak +screens of various designs, in the upper part of which the tracery is +largely pendant--an arrangement characteristic of Yorkshire. These +screens have been restored, but contain much of the old work, most of +which is probably of the same date with the stalls.[99] Until the last +restoration they were surmounted by seventeenth century galleries in the +so-called Jacobean style. + + [Illustration: CHOIR STALLS, FIFTEENTH CENTURY.] + +=The Stalls=--thirteen on either side and eight returned against the Rood +Screen--are exquisite specimens of fifteenth century woodwork. They are +surmounted by lofty canopies of elaborate tabernacle-work supported on +slender shafts and rising into a forest of crocketed spirelets and +pinnacles. There are ribbed vaults under the canopies, and upon the +pendants in front are hovering angels. The canopies on the south side +were wrecked by the fall of the spire in 1660, and those over the eight +easternmost stalls were then reconstructed in the 'Jacobean' style with +a gallery above, while of the canopies now over the other nine, eight +are said to have been brought across from the eastern end of the north +range, where more Jacobean canopies were erected in their place. Sir +Gilbert Scott removed all this seventeenth century work and set up +reproductions of the fifteenth century design. Thus the eight +easternmost canopies on either side are modern. The misereres and arms +of the stalls are exquisitely carved. + + [Illustration: Jonah emerging from the whale. + Pelican feeding her young. + MISERERES, FIFTEENTH CENTURY.] + + The subjects upon the former are as follows, beginning from the + archway in the screen:-- + + _North side_:--(1) (CANON IN RESIDENCE) lion attacked by dogs; (2) + dragon attacked by dogs; (3) angel with shield; (4) dragon and + birds; (5) hart's-tongue ferns; (6) conventional flowers; (7) ape + attacked by lion; (8) vine; (9) birds pecking fruit; (10) + antelopes; (11) fox preaching to goose and cock; (12) fox running + off with geese; (13) fox caught by dogs; (14) dragons fighting; + (15) fruit and flowers issuing from inverted head; (16) man holding + club with oak leaves and acorns; (17) (MAYOR'S STALL) griffin + catching rabbit. + + _South side_:--(1) (DEAN) angel with book; (2) angel with shield + bearing date 1489; (3) lion _versus_ griffin; (4) griffin devouring + human leg; (5) owl; (6) mermaid with mirror and hair-brush; (7) two + pigs dancing to bagpipe played by a third; (8) Jonah thrown to the + whale; (9) man wheeling another who holds a reed and a bag; (10) + fox caught carrying off goose by dog and by woman with distaff; + (11) winged animal; (12) hart, gorged and chained; (13) pelican + feeding young; (14) Jonah emerging from the whale; (15) Samson + carrying the gates; (16) head (modern)[100]; (17) (BISHOP'S THRONE) + Caleb and Joshua carrying the grapes and watched by Anakim. + + [Illustration: DESK-END OF MAYOR'S STALL.] + +Most of these misereres have exquisite conventional flowers (especially +roses) cut upon them in addition to the figure-subjects. The desks in +front of the stalls have rich finials, and their panelled fronts form +the backs of a lower tier of seats, the arms of which are supported each +on a square shaft set diamondwise. In front of these lower seats the +desks again have carved finials and panelled fronts, and on those +parallel with the Rood Screen the tracery is distinctly Flamboyant. The +finial before the stall of the Canon in Residence has a griffin attached +to it, and that in front of the Dean's stall a lion. Before both these +stalls the ends of the two tiers of desks are richly carved. The +Bishop's throne and Mayor's stall have each a canopied niche on the +exterior toward the east,[101] and two small apertures in the east side +to enable the occupant to see the altar, and in front of these two +stalls the ends of the two tiers of desks are again richly carved. The +Mayor's stall, which is wider than the others, was probably that of the +Wakeman, and attached to the finial in front is a grotesque ape, beneath +which the supporting shaft is of open work. The end of this desk +displays a shield charged with two keys in saltire, for the see of York. + + [Illustration: FINIAL IN FRONT OF THE BISHOP'S THRONE.] + +The Bishop's throne was originally occupied by the Archbishops of York. +The Jacobean canopy, which succeeded that of the fifteenth century, +comprised the space of two stalls, as did also the modern structure by +which it was itself succeeded and which is now in the Consistory Court. +The present canopy resembles those of the other stalls but is higher and +more elaborate. Upon the back of the throne inside is a small mitre. The +finial in front consists of an elephant carrying a man in his trunk, and +bearing on his back a castle filled with armed soldiery, and in front of +the elephant is a centaur (renewed), the shaft under which is again of +open-work. The end of this desk displays a large mitre above a shield +charged with the three stars of St. Wilfrid and supported by two angels, +between whom is a scroll with the date 1494. + + [Illustration: THE WEST END OF THE CHOIR.] + +=The Organ= occupied the top of the Rood Screen as early as 1408; but +doubtless all traces of the mediaeval instrument disappeared at the +Reformation or in the Civil War. During the ascendancy of the Puritans +organ-building became a lost art, and at the Restoration it had to be +revived by foreigners, one of whom, Gerard Schmidt, nephew of 'Father +Schmidt,' built an organ for Ripon. This instrument was remodelled in +1833 by Booth of Leeds, and about 1878 the organ was rebuilt by T. C. +Lewis of Brixton, so that very little of Schmidt's work now remains. The +present case was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott. Over the doorway in the +screen is a projecting wooden gallery, in good imitation of the +Perpendicular manner. This gallery, which dates probably from the time +of Schmidt, was occupied until comparatively recently by the organist. +From the front of it projects a well-carved hand, which, worked by a +pedal, could be made to beat time--a very interesting piece of +mechanism, which again probably dates from the time of Schmidt. + + [Illustration: THE NORTH CHOIR AISLE.] + +=The North Choir Aisle.=--The floor of the choir is now a step above that +of the aisles, and it may be further remarked that in both of them the +first bay is somewhat dark, being walled up on three sides; that in the +second bay the archway toward the choir is occupied by organ-pipes; that +a bench table runs along the side wall and the east end, and that the +latter portion is adorned with panelling of the same design with the +reredos. + +In the north aisle the first three bays and a portion of the fourth are +Archbishop Roger's work, with the exception of the windows. The most +notable feature, as usual, is the vaulting-shafts, which spring from +above the string-course, and are in clusters of three. In each cluster +the central shaft is even thicker than the others, and the capitals, +which are carved with foliage of Norman character, share a common +five-sided abacus, while the bases are circular and rest on radiating +brackets smaller than themselves. These brackets, which are said to be +unique, have square corners and are moulded, but only on the front, and +their receding portion consists of a concave moulding containing a +convex block. In the north-west corner there is but a single shaft, +which rises from the bench-table, is banded at the string-course, and +has a square-topped capital. The vaulting has wall-ribs, +cross-springers, and groin-ribs, and is rather high-pitched. Upon the +cross-springers the mouldings are a large keeled round having on either +side a hollow between fillets, while the groin-ribs are moulded as in +the Markenfield Chapel. In the westernmost bay the vault has shown signs +of weakness (like so many other parts of the building adjacent to the +ill-fated tower) and has been strengthened by a cross-arch with a +half-arch abutting against it on the west side, both springing from +corbels. The corbels are quite in Archbishop Roger's manner, and +indicate that these strengthening arches, and therefore the blocking +walls from which they spring, are of his period. Moreover, the abacus +moulding of the first choir capital is continued as a string to the +shaft (which it encircles) in the north-west corner. This string is +interrupted by a rather inexplicable round arch in the west wall, and +has also been broken by the obtrusion of the Perpendicular tower-pier, +and by the blocked doorway which once opened from the Rood Screen. Below +this doorway (adjoining which there is a recess in the obtruding masonry +of the tower-pier) the wall shows traces of a gallery or staircase. On +the north wall the string-course, which is rather undercut, is original +as far as the end of the fourth bay, and marks the level to which the +sills of the original windows descended in steps.[102] In the present +windows, which descend to the old level, the mouldings of the arch are +stopped upon a set-off and the jamb is left plain. + + [Illustration: TRANSITIONAL VAULTING CORBEL. CHOIR AISLE.] + +In the two easternmost bays the Decorated string-course is of a +different pattern and at a slightly higher level; and here the jambs of +the windows are moulded with a hollow continued from the arch; while the +rim of the latter has upon it a large filleted round flanked by hollows +and supported on shafts with polygonal plinths and circular bases and +capitals, the latter enriched with foliage. The east window, however, is +not splayed, and has a deep rear-vault and a flat sill, while its rim is +more elaborately moulded and there are shafts to the inner as well as to +the outer arch. Except in the two easternmost windows on the north side, +the glass is very poor. The Decorated vaulting-shafts are again in +clusters of three, but rise from the bench-table and break the +string-course. They have polygonal plinths, and their capitals are +adorned with rather ill-cut foliage. In the north-east corner there is a +single shaft having a fillet, and adjoining it is a round-headed +doorway, which once opened into the angle staircase. In this aisle the +panelling is carried two bays westwards. + +It should be noticed that toward the aisle the choir arches have one +more order in the three Decorated bays than they have in the rest. In +the Decorated vaulting several chamfers are introduced among the +mouldings of the cross-springers, and both in these and in the +groin-ribs the most prominent moulding has a fillet. Otherwise the roof +roughly matches that of the older bays. The older and the later period +meet in the fourth bay from the west, where two of the groin-ribs have +the fillet, while the other two are without it. In the two easternmost +bays there are fine bosses at the crown of the vault. + +It is thought that the Shrine of St. Wilfrid was in the east end of this +aisle.[103] Unfortunately Leland's words _S. Wilfridi reliquiae sub arcu +prope magnum altare sepultae_ are too vague to decide its exact +position. + +=The South Choir Aisle.=--This aisle, in some respects, has been altered +more than the other, but the south wall is Archbishop Roger's work as +far as the end of the fourth bay, if not farther. About 14 feet from the +west end occurs that 'straight joint' in the masonry which shows the +separation of this aisle from the Mallory Chapel to have been an +afterthought; and a little further east a round-headed doorway, moulded +with the edge-roll and retaining a panelled door of some age, opens into +the Chapter-house. There was evidently a second and similar doorway a +few yards further on, but it has been blocked (doubtless when the +cross-wall was built at the back of it between the Chapter-house and +vestry), and a square-headed doorway has been made to open into the +latter. To the right of this entrance is a square-headed lavatory with a +projecting rectangular basin and a hole knocked through into the lobby +behind. This lavatory is of course an insertion, probably of the +fifteenth century; indeed the whole of this part of the wall has been +much repaired with limestone. The aisle is somewhat darkened by the fact +that its first four windows look into the Lady-loft. Fortunately the +three westernmost are original. They are as usual round-headed and +plainly splayed, and their sills descend to the string-course in steps. +Archbishop Roger's vaulting-shafts here are in better preservation than +in the other aisle. The original vaulting itself must of course have +been taken down when the three westernmost columns of the choir-arcade +were rebuilt, but in the reconstruction the old ribs seem to have been +used again. The groin-ribs have no room to descend upon the +Perpendicular choir-capitals, and end prematurely upon corbels carved +into faces. + +The westernmost bay of the aisle has been divided into two storeys, the +upper of which now contains part of the mechanism of the organ, but is +thought to have been once a chantry chapel. This curious chamber is +reached through a pointed doorway at the top of the Library staircase in +the south transept. Its roof is of course formed by the aisle-vault, +which originally extended, doubtless, as far westwards in this aisle as +in the other. The space, however, has been shortened by the great +thickness of a Perpendicular cross-arch, which, though its southern +respond obtrudes into the aisle below, is itself only visible from this +chamber. When, therefore, the vaulting here was rebuilt, it had to be +adapted to the shortened space, and the groin-ribs, which are very much +of Archbishop Roger's pattern, spring from Perpendicular corbels carved +into faces. The wall which separates this bay of the aisle from the +choir was said above, quite truly, to be Perpendicular, but on this its +southern face the masonry is apparently Archbishop Roger's. It is of +gritstone, and behind the organ-bellows there remains a corbel like +those of the cross-arch that props the vaulting in the corresponding bay +of the north aisle. The presumption therefore is that the original +vaulting was similarly propped here, and that the wall on which this +corbel remains was built to block or strengthen the first choir-arch, +and has survived the arch itself. To the west of the door a small square +window looks into the Mallory Chapel. + +In its eastern portion this aisle resembles the other, but the +bench-table here is only carried two bays westward, and the panelling +only one bay. In the fifth bay from the west the window is shortened to +about half the length of the others, and the string-course (which is of +Archbishop Roger's pattern) is correspondingly raised, possibly because +a longer window would have come below the springing of the vestry roof +(in the period when there was no Lady-loft), or possibly (though this is +less likely) to make room for the monument underneath, which, though +placed here by Sir Gilbert Scott, who found it in pieces, may have +occupied this position before. The monument is that of Moses Fowler, +first Dean of Ripon (d. 1608), and the effigy is not a favourable +example of English sculpture in the seventeenth century. Of the stained +glass, that in the last window on the south side is of some merit. The +capitals of the Decorated vaulting-shafts are better executed in this +aisle than in the other. Here, as there, the Decorated vaulting begins +in the middle of the fourth bay, where the fillet is again found upon +the two eastern groins only. At the south-east corner of this aisle are +the remains of a piscina--a fragment of a basin resting on a +shaft--which probably belonged to one of the many chantries. The +staircase at this corner affords the best access to the turret cell +described in the last chapter, and to the attic over the choir, where +the framing of the roof is a very remarkable specimen of modern joinery. + +On account of the alterations that have taken place at different periods +in the part of the Cathedral south of the choir, it will be well to +examine the crypt under the Chapter-house before examining either the +latter itself or the Library. + +=The Norman Crypt.=--A round-headed doorway in the west wall of the +Chapter-house admits to a staircase which, roofed with a sloping +barrel-vault and descending southwards, turns eastwards, under another +round arch, into the crypt. The age of this staircase is uncertain, but +its west wall is of course the east wall of Archbishop Roger's transept, +and its barrel-vault is under his buttresses which will be seen in the +Library. The crypt is divided by a cross-wall with a round arch in it +into two portions, each having the vaulting supported on pillars along +the middle; but half of the first and third bays of the western portion +has been walled up in modern times for burial-vaults. The width of the +crypt is about 18 feet and the total length about 68 feet. + + [Illustration: THE NORMAN CRYPT.] + +This part of the church was assigned by Walbran to Thomas of Bayeux +(1070-1100), and by Sir Gilbert Scott to Thurstan (1114-1141); but it is +quite possible that both these Archbishops, if not Oda or Oswald before +them, may have had a share in its construction. Much of the work at any +rate belongs to a Norman church which preceded that of Archbishop Roger. + +In the vaulting (which by-the-way has had to be propped at some period +by two rude pointed limestone arches at the west end) the chamfered +groin-ribs seem to have been added later for strength, probably when the +storey above was remodelled; but the vaulting itself, with its square +pillars, its plain round arches from pillar to pillar and from pillar to +walls, and without ribs upon the groins (such having been its original +condition, apparently), seems pure Norman work.[104] The traces of +painted decoration remaining upon both pillars and vaulting are probably +original. Along the walls the arches spring, not from corbels, but from +short strings of the same pattern with the impost-moulding on the +pillars--a pattern not of very early character. The north and south +walls must, perhaps, be as old at least as the vaulting which rests +against them; nor does the former wall seem quite on the same plane with +the portion of Archbishop Roger's choir foundations visible outside +(between the present choir and the apse), he having perhaps built his +wall against this one. The large limestone buttress against this wall, +and another buttress which rises from the east wall but is hidden by the +vaulting, were added in the Decorated period, and can be followed up +through the two storeys above. They terminate in the pinnacles of the +flying buttresses that span the choir-aisle. The south wall may perhaps +be definitely placed somewhat early in the Norman period, since the +windows are splayed both internally and externally.[105] Of equal age, +probably, is the cross-wall (which, to judge from the mass of masonry +that spans the present passage of communication between the two parts of +the crypt, is very thick) since allowance is made for its thickness in +the spacing of the windows.[106] It is at least as old as the vaulting, +whose bays are arranged to suit it; and moreover the half-pillar against +its eastern side has never been a whole pillar, as the capital plainly +shows. This last remark applies also to the half-pillar against the +extreme west wall, which therefore may perhaps be taken as marking the +westward limit of the crypt at the time when the vaulting was +constructed; while the east wall (excluding the apse) probably marks +the contemporary eastward limit--if, that is to say, the eastern portion +of the vaulting has not undergone alteration. That eastern portion is +clearly planned for an apse or chancel of some kind. The arch that rises +eastward from the last pillar is stopped half-way in its course by a +cross-arch opening into the apse, and the two last groin-ribs are +carried from the pillar to the abutments of the cross-arch, being +obliged by this contraction of span to form the only pointed arches in +the whole vaulting. Such an arrangement--a 'nave' terminating in an +apse, and at the same time divided by a row of pillars along the +middle--is somewhat unusual. The present apse is of uncertain date. Part +of it may be Norman. Its window indeed is of early Norman type: yet its +wall seems of softer stone than the rest of the crypt,[107] and the +string which runs along the east wall of the latter and round the +responds of the cross-arch is there broken off: moreover, the cross-arch +itself is clearly not of the same date or construction with the two ribs +of the apse-roof, which ribs may possibly be of the same date as the +groin-ribs; and lastly, it will be remembered that the shafts on the +exterior had something of the appearance of Archbishop Roger's work. The +floor of the apse is raised on two steps, but there is no trace of an +altar. + +It will be noticed that at the south-east corner there is no apsidal +chamber to correspond to that in the storey above. There is, however, an +unsavoury hole from which have been extracted a number of skulls. +Indeed, this crypt formerly contained huge piles of bones, which had +probably been brought here by the sixteenth century builders from the +foundations of their new nave-aisles,[108] and which were removed in +1865 to a pit in the graveyard. Among the stone relics which have found +a resting-place here, the most interesting are a sarcophagus, the head +of a cross of Saxon character, and a group of coffin-lids near the north +wall. Most of these last are perhaps of the thirteenth century.[109] At +the west end of the crypt is preserved Blore's reredos. + +=The Chapter-house= is 22 feet wide from wall to wall and 35 feet long, +but it was evidently once open to the vestry, and the dividing wall, +which with its bench-table is of limestone, was erected in the Decorated +or in the Perpendicular period. In both rooms, as also in the storey +above, the original floor was perhaps of stone or tiles, but if so, it +has been covered or superseded by wooden planking. + +The Chapter-house is marked as such by the stone benches which are +carried in two tiers along the north and south walls. On the north side +the upper tier is interrupted by the piers of an arcading of plainly +chamfered round arches, the central bay of which contains a fine +mediaeval cupboard with iron scroll-work. The doorway into the choir is +very curiously treated on this side. It is surmounted first by a lintel, +the stones above which are wedges forming a 'flat arch,' and then by a +round arch so high as to run up behind the westernmost arch of the +arcading. The very fine vaulting, although some have ascribed it to the +Early English period, belongs more probably to the time of Archbishop +Roger. Unlike that over the choir-aisles and the Markenfield chapel, +however, it has all its arches rounded, and is without wall-ribs. It +springs from five-sided corbels which, like the corbels of the old nave, +are finished off with scrolls, and which on the north side are placed +against the piers of the arcading; and in the middle of the room it is +supported on two cylindrical and monolithic pillars. The bases and +capitals of these are circular, and the former are almost pure Early +English, the plinth having a round moulding at the bottom, and the base +proper consisting of two round mouldings separated by a hollow, with one +or two beads or fillets. The capitals are less advanced in style, as the +part just above the bell is not moulded and the abacus retains the +square edge. All the eight ribs that rise from each pillar resemble the +groin-ribs in the crypt. + + [Illustration: THE CHAPTER-HOUSE.] + +The arcade against the north wall is continued in the vestry, and it has +been thought that it is Norman, and that its arches were once open.[110] +But had this ever been the case the piers would surely have been +narrower, and would have had capitals. Indeed, it is doubtful whether +the arcade is Norman at all: for if it were, its bays might be expected +to agree in span and number with the (presumably Norman) bays of the +crypt, whereas there are five bays there and only four here occupying +the same total length. Secondly, the set-off on which its piers stand is +probably Archbishop Roger's work, as will appear later; and the piers +themselves seem to be of the same construction with the wall behind +them, which again is almost certainly his. Moreover, it is significant +that the arches agree in span with those of his choir, and that their +piers are back to back with his vaulting-shafts in the choir-aisle. +Lastly, these piers correspond in width with his buttresses on the north +side of the choir. In fact it is difficult to resist the conclusion that +they are Archbishop Roger's south choir buttresses in disguise,[111] and +that the arches between them were thrown across merely to form a +straight boundary for the vaulting, and to carry a ledge which (when +there was no storey above) might support the external roof. The piers +indeed are carried up, with a 'straight joint' on either side, above the +springing of the arches, and the latter are constructed as if they had +been let into the piers as an after-thought.[112] + +As the bays of this arcade, to which the vaulting is adapted, do not +agree with those of the crypt, it follows that the two cylindrical +pillars here do not stand exactly over the pillars below--which +strengthens the presumption that the vaulting there is of earlier date, +and that its groin-ribs were added later for strength: nor does the +dividing wall here stand exactly over the cross-wall below, so that the +strain on the crypt roof must be considerable. + +The two round windows are very widely splayed, and the uppermost part of +their rim has a different curvature from the rest, as if they had once +been straight-sided and round-headed. In their present form they are of +uncertain date. The most conspicuous instance of the employment of this +rare type of window--viz., the nave of Southwell Cathedral--is pure +Norman, but the received opinion ascribes these Ripon examples to the +time of Archbishop Roger, and it will be observed that their position +harmonizes with the bays of the vaulting, which is presumably his, but +has no relation externally to the spacing of the windows of the crypt, +which, moreover, have an external splay. The third window was once +circular like the rest, for a portion of the rim may still be traced; +but as it would otherwise have been bisected by the cross-wall, the +later builders have blocked half of it and squared the rest, splaying it +at the same time like a squint. The date of the south wall itself is +doubtful. It is thinner here than in either the vestry or the crypt. + + [Illustration: The Resurrection. + St. Wilfrid. + The Coronation of the Virgin. + ANCIENT SCULPTURES PRESERVED IN THE CHAPTER-HOUSE.] + +Near the modern hearth is a case of curiosities found about the church, +among them several fourteenth or fifteenth century reliefs in alabaster, +representing the Resurrection, the Coronation of the Virgin, the story +of Herodias, and the figure of a bishop, probably St. Wilfrid, with a +curious P-shaped implement on his arm. + +At the north end of the cross-wall it will be observed that the blocked +doorway noticed in the choir-aisle was not round-headed on this side, +but segmental. The square-headed doorway in the cross-wall itself is +modern, and opens into a lobby, the opposite side of which is formed by +the Decorated buttress whose lower portion was noticed in the crypt, +while on the left is the doorway into the choir, and on the right +another square-headed doorway, opening into the vestry. + +=The Vestry.=--Before the erection of the cross-wall the vaulting +evidently extended eastward continuously to the apse, which still +contains a fragment of it with two corbels, while further traces, +including another corbel, may be seen upon the south wall. Its removal +may have taken place either when the two Decorated buttresses were +introduced, or at the erection of the Lady-loft, or possibly much later; +but was doubtless contemporaneous with the building of the cross-wall, +which was evidently intended not only as a partition, but as a 'stop' +for the portion of the vaulting that was retained. The present ceiling +was put up by Sir Gilbert Scott, who, it is said, would have restored +the vaulting had funds allowed. Of the buttresses, that adjoining the +doorway has in its front, as well as in the side toward the lobby, a +small trefoiled and moulded recess. These two buttresses are built +against the piers of the arcading, part of the last arch of which is +visible behind the cupboard. + +In the same cupboard may be observed, scarcely above the floor, a wide +stone ledge with a bold moulding worked along the front. If the floor +can ever have been lower than it is now, this ledge may have been used +as a bench. In itself, it is of course the set-off on which the piers of +the arcading stand. Now it will be remembered that the portion of +Archbishop Roger's wall-base visible from the graveyard (between the +choir and the apse) has at the top a wide set-off or slope. This ledge +in the vestry, then, seems to be level with the base of that slope, +where moreover there is a moulding similar to that found here; also the +front of the ledge here seems to be flush with Archbishop Roger's +masonry there. + +If, then, the work there is his,[113] the above considerations afford +some reason surely for the belief that this set-off on which the piers +of the arcading stand, and perhaps also the uppermost courses of the +wall beneath it, are Archbishop Roger's work. Nor is it improbable that +this set-off once had a slope, of which that above-mentioned was the +continuation, and out of which the buttresses (_i.e._, the arcade piers) +rose after the manner of those on the other side of the choir--in fact, +that Archbishop Roger intended to make this wall the exterior of his +church by demolishing the crypt, vestry, and Chapter-house; and that it +was only after some such idea had been conceived and abandoned, that the +arches were thrown across from buttress to buttress, the vaulting +constructed against them, this ledge formed (by cutting away the slope +of the set-off), and the stone benches carried along the wall of the +Chapter-house. + +The arch above the ledge has been mutilated to make way for a modern +spiral staircase of wood leading to the Library. Half-way up this +staircase there remain upon the wall and upon the buttress (if it may +now be so called) portions of a string-course which may be taken perhaps +as additional evidence for the theory that Archbishop Roger at first +intended to demolish the vestry and Chapter-house.[114] It does not, +however, match the external string on the other side of the choir, but +resembles the internal string in the choir-aisles. + +The single window in the south wall is round-headed internally, and is +partially splayed on one side and not at all on the other: indeed the +wall here appears to have undergone some alteration. In this room this +wall is of the same thickness with the corresponding wall of the crypt, +which is not the case in the Chapter-house. + +East of the above window a square-headed doorway opens into the apsidal +chamber enclosed by the corner buttress. This curious little chamber was +probably a sacristy or treasury. It has a recess in the west side, and +seems to have communicated directly with the graveyard. In the roof is a +slab which has a small cross graven upon it, and which may have formed +part of an altar. + +The projection at the south side of the apse was probably one of the +responds of an arch against which the vaulting abutted, as in the crypt. +Under the east window the curve of the wall has been flattened, probably +to afford a better back for the altar, of which the step remains. On the +north side is an aumbry, with a recess adjoining it in the side of the +buttress; and on the south side is a smaller aumbry, and a piscina with +a projecting basin and a semicircular head, the latter cut apparently in +one stone. This again is probably one of the earliest piscinae in +existence. The curve of the apse is wider in this storey than below, +which partly accounts for the fact that the adjoining Decorated buttress +protrudes here into the room. There is also a difference in the stone +used, and in several other particulars, _e.g._, the two windows here +have very little external splay--all of which may or may not indicate a +difference in date between the apse in this storey and in the crypt. The +hand of Archbishop Roger seems traceable here not only in the external +shafts and corbel-table, but also in the trefoiling (externally) of the +east window. The two vaulting-corbels at any rate seem to be his, as +well as the piscina. The upper part of the apse has lost its +semicircular shape and been squared, and some masonry has been thrown +across from its wall to the Decorated buttress, the motive having been +perhaps to make a better support for the rectangular east end of the +Lady-loft. The oak table in this room was probably the Communion-table +of the church during the period following the Reformation. + +The question now arises how long the vestry and Chapter-house have +served their present purpose. Of the arrangements in this storey before +the time of Archbishop Roger nothing can be recovered with certainty, +but the (presumably Norman) wall between the two parts of the crypt +suggests by its thickness that it was intended to support a division of +some kind above. After being remodelled in the time of Archbishop Roger, +however, this upper storey was evidently open from end to end, and its +apsidal termination, containing both piscina and altar-step, indicates +that it was a chapel: indeed, as has been well suggested, it was +probably the original Lady Chapel. Nevertheless, in an age when every +action of life was invested with a religious character, the western part +may have been used for capitular purposes even without a dividing wall, +and the gritstone benches, so significant of those purposes, are +doubtless of considerable age. The statement in the old Records that the +trial of 1228[115] was held _apud Rypon in Aula Capituli_ is definite +enough to show that there was a recognised place for Chapter meetings; +nor is it improbable that the reference may be to the present building. +Some doubt is thrown upon this conclusion by a proclamation of +Archbishop Lee in 1537 sequestrating the Common Fund on the ground that +"the Chapter-house is ruinous in walls, roof, and stonework generally, +so that it is likely to fall." These words, it has been thought, can +never have been applicable to the present Chapter-house, and it has been +suggested therefore that there may have been another which has +disappeared. Archbishop Lee's words, however, are perhaps not +irreconcilable with the present building. They may refer to the serious +settlement which necessitated the huge Perpendicular buttress at the +corner of what is now the vestry. There is, it is true, some difficulty +in the fact that it is not the vestry but the Chapter-house which is +mentioned, and in the allusion to a dilapidated roof (_tectura_); but it +is conceivable that there was as yet no dividing wall, that the vaulting +of what is now the vestry was still standing, that it had been injured +by the settlement above-mentioned--in fact that its removal and the +erection of the dividing wall took place in the time of Archbishop Lee. +His direction for repairs may also account for the presence of limestone +in the north wall of the Chapter-house, and for the propping of the +vault at the west end of the crypt.[116] As has already been shown, the +history of the vestry is bound up with that of the Chapter-house. At +what period services ceased to be held at the altar in the apse, it is +difficult to say; perhaps on the completion of a Lady Chapel above, +perhaps on the erection of the dividing wall,[117] perhaps through the +advent of the Reformation. At any rate, it was probably not before this +part of the church had ceased to be used for services that it began to +be recognised as a robing-room. There is an allusion to a recognised +vestry in Leland, and very possibly the present room is meant; if so, it +would seem from his account to have been used also as a library. But the +fact remains that the church possesses no vestry except what is +obviously a disused chapel. + +=The Lady-chapel= or Lady-loft is 23 feet 3 inches wide, and 68 feet +long.[118] Its west and north sides, being formed by what was once the +exterior of the church, display not only windows and buttresses, but +also a string-course with gargoyles. From the west wall projects one of +Archbishop Roger's buttresses, terminating in a slope, between the two +blocked windows of the Mallory Chapel, which resemble the aisle windows +of the other transept. The window on the right, mutilated by the +insertion of the doorway, has lost its shafts, and retains only their +capitals. The other window is partly cut off by the south wall, and is +now a cupboard. + +In the north wall, the first three bays are Archbishop Roger's, and the +windows resemble in their treatment the two just described, and are +separated from each other by two buttresses which terminate, like those +on the opposite side of the choir, in two slopes one close below the +other. There is a third buttress, terminating in a single slope, at the +angle formed with the transept. The Decorated window in the fourth bay +is treated in the same manner as the rest of those in the eastern +portion of the choir-aisles, and the Decorated buttresses which flank it +are those which have been followed up from the crypt. The rich +string-course or cornice along the top of this and the west wall +corresponds with that on the other side of the church. The gargoyles are +of course Decorated, and so is the string-course itself, eastwards at +any rate of the second gargoyle on the north wall, for here one of the +mouldings has a fillet upon it. Whether the rest of the string is +Archbishop Roger's work or not, it is difficult to decide. + +The large windows in the south and east walls are surmounted by square +labels ending in heads. Above the modern fireplace is the defaced +monument of Anthony Higgin, second Dean (d. 1624), the founder of the +present library; and further east, under the small lancet window (which +is filled with fragments of stained glass), is an arched recess of +considerable size, and a trefoiled piscina, each surmounted by a gable +moulding with a finial. The piscina probably belonged to the chantry of +Our-Lady-in-the-Lady-loft. A large stone bracket, supported by a +grotesque figure, projects from the east wall, and the east window is +bright with armorial bearings of benefactors of the church. This glass, +which is mostly of the eighteenth century, was once in the great window +of the choir. The north side of the recess in which the east window is +set, is partially splayed outwards to join the last Decorated buttress, +which with its neighbour have been cut back in this storey to the plane +of the pinnacles above--doubtless when this Lady-loft was added. + +The present pinewood ceiling was put up by Sir Gilbert Scott, but most +of the carved angle-pieces in the panels came from an older roof of oak. + + [Illustration: THE LIBRARY.] + +The history of the library begins with the MS. of the Gospels given by +St. Wilfrid; and the ascription to him of various other gifts, which +occurs in the writings of Peter of Blois (a Canon of Ripon in the +twelfth century), implies at any rate that there was a library when +Peter wrote. In 1466 money was bequeathed by William Rodes, a chaplain, +_ad fabricam cujusdam librarii in ecclesia construendi_, words which may +refer to the screening off for books of a portion of this chapel; but +in Leland's time books were apparently kept in the vestry, though it is +not certain that the present vestry is meant.[119] Except a few MSS. of +Chapter Acts, Fabric Rolls, etc., none of the books now here are known +for certain to have belonged to the church before the Reformation;[120] +indeed the present collection began with the bequest of his books by +Dean Higgin in 1624. The books were in this chapel in 1817, but in 1859 +they were at the Deanery. There are now over 5000 volumes, including +seven MSS., of which one of the most notable is the Ripon Psalter +(1418), containing the special offices for St. Wilfrid, and many printed +books of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, among them two fine +Caxtons. Many of the books have beautiful old bindings in stamped +leather. The most interesting items in the collection are exposed in a +glass case at the east end of the room.[121] Near the opposite end is +another case containing the bones recently dug up under the site of the +mediaeval altar in the Saxon crypt. + + [Illustration: THE OLD CHAPEL OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE'S HOSPITAL. + (From a pen-drawing by the author.)] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[55] This is what was meant by saying in Chapter II. that in each tower +one side is older than the others. + +[56] In the interior of these towers the courses run level with those of +Archbishop Roger's work--a fact which has been taken as indicating that +the lowest portion of the towers internally (but not, of course, the +tower arches) may be actually his work. The theory that his west front +was flanked by towers or chambers of some kind is not improbable. + +[57] A triforium is properly a gallery, open to the church, between the +internal and external roofs of the aisles, but here there were no +aisles, and the gallery or passage is in the thickness of the wall. + +[58] This term will be used wherever the usual term 'vaulting-shaft' is +inapplicable. + +[59] The earth here has apparently been brought in from outside. Can it +have come from some sacred spot abroad? The original floor, if not +earthen, may possibly have rested on the set-off. + +[60] It has been suggested, however, that they may be relics of a feast +buried here to defile the site of the altar. The bones in question are +now in the Lady-loft. + +[61] With one of the deposits was found a brass bodkin of the type used +in the sixteenth century. + +[62] It was Walbran, again, who gave these reasons for assigning the +crypt to Wilfrid. Before his time it was thought to have been built +during the Roman Occupation. + +[63] See article by Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite, V.P.S.A., in _Archaeol. +Journ._, vol. xxxvii. p. 364. + +[64] A _confessio_, it need hardly be said, has nothing to do with a +confessional. The word is probably to be explained as meaning the tomb +of one who had been a witness or _confessor_ of the Faith. + +[65] In making excavations for laying the wind-trunk of the organ the +exterior of this wall was laid bare and appeared extremely rough. This, +however, does not prove that it had never been meant to be seen. It may +have been faced with smooth stones, which, just because they were +exposed, attracted attention, and were removed by later masons for use +elsewhere.--_Mr. Micklethwaite._ + +[66] Among the five known Saxon crypts (all of the _confessio_ type) +Ripon and Hexham alone show this peculiarity. + +[67] See _Proceedings Soc. Antiq._, 16th June 1892. + +[68] In making the above-mentioned excavation in 1891, Mr. Micklethwaite +found what was presumably the floor of the body of Wilfrid's church. It +was of plaster 3 inches thick, and was 1 foot 7 inches below the floor +of the present Cathedral. + +[69] The explanation of the crypt as a _confessio_ is due to Mr. +Micklethwaite, and is ably set forth, with its consequences, in +_Archaeol. Journ._, vol. xxxix. p. 347. + +[70] The square termination of the crypt is in favour of a square +presbytery; while his Roman proclivities are perhaps slightly in favour +of an apse, and of aisles. + +[71] _Surtees Soc._, vol. lxxiv. p. 83. + +[72] It is certainly true that numerous white _tesserae_ of Italian +character, such as Wilfrid might have used, have been dug up on this +site (_Murray's Cathedrals_, Pt. 1, p. 172, n. 1). They may, however, +mark the site of the domestic buildings and not of the church. Or they +may be relics of the Roman Occupation. + +[73] By Walbran in _Proceedings Archaeol. Inst._, York Vol. 1846 (pub. +1848). + +[74] There is an interesting suggestion in _Murray's Cathedrals_, Pt. 1, +p. 172, n. 2, that the church of which the crypt formed a part was built +not by Wilfrid but by Eadhead, who, as the supplanter of Wilfrid, would +probably be excluded from Wilfrid's monastery, but who may, +nevertheless, have employed his workmen. The western position of the +altar, however, is against placing the work as late as the episcopate of +Eadhead. + +[75] The suggestion is Mr. Micklethwaite's. _Altare_ would, of course, +mean the high altar in the presbytery above. + +[76] A third font (modern) formerly stood in the north-west tower. + +[77] It is curious that the same story should be told of Roger de +Mowbray, founder of Byland Abbey in this same county. (_Murray's +Cathedrals._) + +[78] Another suggestion is that the subject has some connection with the +history of the Disobedient Prophet. + +[79] _Surtees Soc._, vol. lxiv. p. 92. + +[80] But for the label, these arms resemble those of John of Eltham +(brother of Edward III.), who died without issue in 1334. + +[81] It is pleasant to find in the church several indications of aid +received from the other great ecclesiastical foundation in the +neighbourhood. + +[82] Taken by itself, the coarseness of the work in the tower and +transept would suggest that these parts were later, and not earlier, +than the nave. But (not to mention documentary evidence), if they were +later, then the Rood Screen must be later also, which can hardly be the +case, the stalls against it being dated 1489. + +[83] Probably (as Walbran suggested) with money subscribed for the +tower, the completion of which was perhaps the less pressing necessity. + +[84] In the large mediaeval churches there was usually an altar at the +east end of the nave. + +[85] It may have been put here at the time of the building of the +present nave, than which it is perhaps slightly earlier. + +[86] The Markenfields were one of the principal families in the +neighbourhood from the fourteenth century onwards, until in the reign of +Elizabeth they ruined themselves by taking part in the Rising in the +North. Their ancient moated Manor-house, in which both the knights +sculptured on these altar tombs must have lived, is still standing, +about three miles from Ripon, towards Harrogate. + +[87] This aisle was also the site of the chantry of St. Andrew. + +[88] In these pages this term is used to describe round mouldings which +are brought to an edge without actually having a fillet upon them. + +[89] By Mr. Francis Bond. + +[90] In spite of Sir G. Scott's conjectural plan. (See p. 67.) + +[91] It is possible that the screen there mentioned may be the present +structure, or may have been incorporated into it. In 1408 the accident +to the tower had not yet occurred, and the piers that now flank the +screen had therefore not yet been built. There is a not very credible +story that the present screen came from Fountains Abbey. + +[92] This peculiarity is found at some other places--_e.g._, St. Cross, +Winchester. + +[93] This column and that opposite to it on the north side have been +regarded as entirely Decorated imitations of Archbishop Roger's columns, +but surely without sufficient reason. + +[94] See also the account of the East End in Chapter II., pp. 60-63. + +[95] Two holes have been drilled through the rear-vault from the attic +above, but for what purpose it is hard to say. + +[96] It appears from the Fabric Rolls that a new high altar was begun in +1522. The work seems to have lasted four years, and apparently included +a carved wooden reredos. + +[97] _Subtus altare_ suggests a crypt, but there seems to have been no +crypt under the choir. Perhaps the _altare_ meant may have stood over +the Saxon or the Norman crypt. + +[98] Mention may be here made of the Communion plate, some of which is +as old as 1676 and has upon it representations of the church, very +incorrect but showing the spires; also of the mace which is now borne +before the Dean, and which has been assigned to the fifteenth century +and may possibly have been once borne before the Wakeman. Upon the top +has been engraved an _Agnus Dei_, the cognizance of the church. + +[99] A piece of woodwork, however, which was in the north aisle at the +time of the last restoration, is said to have borne the date 1397. + +[100] The old miserere was probably removed when the Throne was made to +comprise two stalls. (_See_ p. 111.) + +[101] It has been supposed that these niches were for figures of St. +Peter and St. Wilfrid, and that the same was the case with the two +niches which form the ends of the lower tier in the Rood Screen, and +also with those which flank the west doors. It may also have been the +case with the two eastward projections (if there were two) from the +western piers of the Central Tower. + +[102] Below the string-course there is a certain amount of limestone in +the wall, but this hardly accounts for the language of a Chapter minute +which records a meeting in 1546 to consider the repair of certain +_defectus et ruinositates apertae tam campanilis quam muri lapidei +insulae borealis_. + +[103] Above the shrine there hung, apparently, a gilded crescent like +that above the site of St. Thomas's shrine at Canterbury. The bones were +enclosed in a splendid coffer with poles attached, and on solemn +occasions this 'feretory,' besides being carried in procession, was +sometimes placed under a tent in the fields. It was also very +elaborately renewed in 1520 (_Surtees Soc._, vol. lxxxi. p. 204, n., +etc.). Portions of the shrine exist, perhaps, in the alabaster +bas-reliefs in the Chapter-house, as well as in the base of the railing +in the north aisle of the nave. + +[104] It may, however, be later than the main walls. + +[105] The lower portion of this wall seems to be of an even earlier type +of masonry than the upper. A somewhat similar difference between the +upper and lower portions may be observed in the east and north walls +also. + +[106] The late doorway approached by four steps, east of the cross-wall, +occupies the place of one of the windows. + +[107] Three kinds of stone occur in this crypt: a sandstone, a fine +gritstone, and a coarser and harder gritstone. + +[108] There are numerous entries in the Fabric Rolls, from 1512 onwards, +relating to expenses 'for the carriage of the bones.' + +[109] One has a sword graven upon it, another a pair of shears (closed), +another a book and a chalice, the latter slightly tipped, while a +gravestone lying in the apse has upon it a dagger, and a pair of shears +open. + +[110] Since it is probable that the axis of the church has always, at +all periods, passed over the Saxon crypt, the Chapter-house and vestry +can hardly have been the south aisle of the choir before the time of +Archbishop Roger (as Walbran supposed), for they are too far south; +indeed, they would seem rather to have been a chapel thrown out from +such an aisle. + +[111] In the storey above will be found certain buttresses which are +clearly his, which stand exactly over these piers, and of which the +latter are probably merely the lower portions. + +[112] The supposition that the arches were added afterwards would +explain why the westernmost of them cuts off the top of the arch over +the door. + +[113] That it is his can hardly be doubted. The moulding and slope at +the top resemble those which characterize the wall-base throughout his +work. + +[114] _Murray's Cathedrals_, Pt. 1, p. 180. + +[115] See Chapter I. + +[116] A view of the crypt as it was before the removal of the bones +represents the vaulting as propped also by certain pillars of +Perpendicular character. These may have been removed by Sir Gilbert +Scott. + +[117] _I.e._, if that wall was not erected contemporaneously with the +said Lady Chapel. + +[118] For its date see Chapters I. and II. + +[119] Can Leland mean that the books, then as now, were in the +Lady-loft, and that part of it was used as a vestry? + +[120] In 1567 a number of books were found in 'a vawte' of the church, +where they had been concealed for safety (_Surtees Soc._, vol. lxxxi. p. +344). + +[121] For a full account of this interesting library, see the monograph +by the Rev. Canon Fowler, F.S.A., of Durham, by whom the books were +arranged in 1872. A copy is kept in the room. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +OTHER OLD BUILDINGS IN RIPON. + + +=The Deanery=, a stone house with two gabled wings, stands opposite to the +north transept. It was built in or about 1625. The front bears the royal +arms, and the hall contains some paintings of the kings and queens of +England, which are more curious than valuable, and are probably of no +very great age. Before the house is an ancient stone wall with +strongly-marked base, gable coping, and a doorway whose trefoil head was +apparently not made for its present position. This may perhaps be part +of Abbot Huby's wall, or of the boundary-wall of either the Palace or +the Bedern. + +Near the south-west tower is a fine red-brick house which doubtless +remembers the Georges, or even Queen Anne. It has all the air of a +prebendal residence, but if it was ever connected with the church, that +connection has long ceased. + +Another red-brick house of some age, adjoining the picturesque ascent +from High St. Agnesgate to the south transept, was the Canons' Residence +up to 1859, when was bought the present Residence near the north-east +corner of the graveyard. + +High St. Agnesgate contains several interesting buildings, foremost +among which is =St. Anne's Hospital=,[122] formerly called 'The Maidens' +Due' (Maison de Dieu), with its interesting ruined chapel. This is the +only one of the three hospitals which was never affiliated to the +Collegiate Church. The date of its origin has been placed shortly before +1438, in which year a chantry was founded in its chapel. The hospital +foundation was for four poor men and four poor women, and there were +also two beds for 'casuals'; and the little community was under the +charge of a priest. There was apparently no endowment. The domestic +portion of the building was pulled down in 1869. Though it had been +divided into cottages some time before that date, the original +arrangements have been recovered from an old document and from certain +indications that had survived in the fabric itself. Joined to the west +end of the chapel was a sort of nave, divided down the middle by a +partition, on one side of which were the beds for the men, on the other +those for the women, while at the west end were two rooms for the +priest. This 'nave' was probably open to the chapel, as the large size +of the western arch of the latter seems to indicate, and possibly the +infirmer inmates could attend the service without leaving their +beds.[123] + +To pass to the chapel itself--a window in the north wall has been +blocked with masonry, upon which is a shield of arms, thought to be +those of Sir Solomon Swale of South Stainley, and surmounted by a +Maltese cross with the letters S.S. and the date 1654 upon it. The west +gable has once been crowned by a bell-cote, and attached to the +south-west corner of the chapel are the remains of an arched doorway. +The western arch of the building, curiously enough, is not in the middle +of the wall. It is recessed and chamfered, and rests upon two +semi-cylindrical responds, whose rather curious capitals do not follow +the form of the shaft, but are triple and rectangular. The chapel +internally is 20 feet 10 inches long and 11 feet 6 inches wide, and is +not at right angles to its western wall, but inclines considerably +toward the south. In the middle of the entrance is an octagonal basin, +supported on a pedestal and having a shield on each of its sides. This +is thought to have been a stoup for holy water. It is not, perhaps, in +its original position, and the pedestal does not seem to belong to it. +Opposite to the blocked window already mentioned, which has an aumbry +east of it, there is a late square-headed window of two lights, whose +arches do not reach quite up to the lintel, but are connected with it by +short perpendiculars. East of this is a piscina with projecting +semi-octagonal basin, trefoil head, and ogee hood, and with a small +square window above and to the left of it. The stone slab on two stone +supports against the east wall is probably the original altar, and +tradition says that the ransom of a Scottish prince was paid down upon +it. On either side of the altar is a stone bracket, that on the north +side bearing a shield of arms.[124] The east window, which is blocked, +is divided into two lights, and the head is almost filled by a large +quatrefoil, of which the uppermost and lowermost foils are ogees. This +window, and the piers and capitals of the western arch, give the +impression that the chapel is of a date earlier than that usually +assigned for the foundation of the hospital. The modern cottages are +inhabited by eight women. + + [Illustration: THE CHAPEL OF ST. ANNE'S HOSPITAL. + (From a pen-drawing by the author.)] + +Between St. Anne's Hospital and Bondgate Green Bridge stands the =Thorp +Prebendal House=, now divided into several dwellings. Whether its +existing fabric is as old as the Reformation or not, this was the site +upon which dwelt the Canons of the mediaeval prebend of Thorp. In 1391 +the hall of the then existing house was used for casting several bells +for the Minster, and here, in later days, as Canon of Thorp, lived +Marmaduke Bradley. The house is said to have been sold by Edward VI. to +the Earl of Cumberland, and to have subsequently sheltered Mary Queen of +Scots, James I, and Charles I. It is best seen from the adjoining +bridge, whence its plastered walls, irregular gables, and stone roof +form a picturesque foreground to the Cathedral. Of the dwellings into +which it is now divided, the third from the bridge contains the grand +staircase, which has twisted skeleton balusters. + +East of St. Anne's Hospital, there are two more old houses, one of +which, known as =St. Agnes' Lodge=,[125] is of considerable interest. The +body of it, long and low, with a high-pitched roof and with a massive +chimney-stack buttressing one end, is said to be of the time of Henry +VII., but derives much of its 'character' from the comparatively modern +windows, which resemble the portholes of a ship. A wing added in the +seventeenth century, with quaint curvilinear gable, projects into the +garden behind. Within the house is a square hall, having above the +fireplace some carving and a painted panel of the burning of London in +1666. There is also a good oak staircase, and in the upper storey are +several quaint features, including a cupboard that may have served for a +hiding-place, and two 'powdering-closets' in which ladies' hair, or +men's wigs, could be powdered in the eighteenth century. But the part of +the house most interesting architecturally is the attics, where the +framing of the king-post roof is extremely massive, while the floor is +of _concrete_.[126] One of the roof-beams in the wing bears the date +1693. This house disputes with the Thorp Prebendal House the honour of +having sheltered Mary Queen of Scots on her way from Bolton Castle to +Tutbury, and it is said that it was during her sojourn at Ripon that she +addressed an appeal to Queen Elizabeth and received an offer of marriage +from the Duke of Norfolk. St. Agnes' Lodge claims also to have been a +temporary home of Turner, at the time when he was illustrating +Whitaker's _History of Craven_ and _History of Richmondshire_. Whether +this house or its immediately western neighbour were ever prebendal +residences it is now difficult to say. + +Two old gabled houses remain in the Market-place, and one of them, now a +basket-shop, is said to have been the residence of Hugh Ripley, last +Wakeman and first Mayor of Ripon. + +At the north end of Stonebridgegate, and not far from the Ure, stands +the =Hospital of St. Mary Magdalene=, sometimes called 'The Maudlins.' It +was founded by Archbishop Thurstan (1114-1141) for secular brethren and +sisters, and one chaplain. The brethren and sisters were not merely to +benefit by the charity themselves, but were to minister to lepers and +blind priests born within the Liberty of Ripon, a certain number of whom +were received into the Hospital. Lepers from outside the Liberty were +entitled to a night's lodging: so also apparently were any other +strangers or mendicant clergy who might be passing through the town. On +St. Mary Magdalene's day there was a dole of food to the poor. A second +chaplain was subsequently added by the benefaction of one William de +Homelyn. At some period, apparently after 1241, the character of the +foundation was changed by another Archbishop, whose name is not known. +The brethren and sisters disappeared, and the staff consisted henceforth +of a Master and one chaplain, or sometimes two. The Master was appointed +by the Archbishop, and was generally a clerk, though sometimes only in +acolyte's Orders. In 1334 one John Warrener, of Studley Roger, founded +here a chantry of two if not three priests. Thus there may have been no +less than six clergy attached to this small chapel; but the number was +not kept up, and at the Reformation there were, besides the Master, only +the two priests of Warrener's foundation. The Hospital continued to +minister to blind priests, and also to lepers until leprosy died out. +The lepers' portion of the building was demolished about 1350. In +1546-7 the inmates were 'five poor people.' All traces of the Master's +house, the hall, the brewery, and the original dwellings have vanished. +The dwellings were rebuilt in 1674, and again in 1875, since which date +more cottages have been added, and a new chapel; and the hospital now +accommodates twelve poor women. The Mastership, still in the gift of the +Archbishop, is at present held with one of the canonries, and the cure +of souls is discharged by a non-resident chaplain. + + [Illustration: SEAL OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE'S HOSPITAL] + +Fortunately the old chapel remains. The main fabric is apparently +Thurstan's. It is of gritstone, but has been much altered and repaired +at later periods, when limestone has been used. To the later work belong +the set-off of the base, the coigns, the parapet, the east part of the +south wall, the framing of most of the windows and doors, and the +buttress and bell-cote at the west end. + +The west front is now divided by a large buttress of many stages +terminating in a slope, but the plinth of this buttress is apparently +original. To the right of the buttress is a long two-cusped lancet +light; to the left may be traced, perhaps, the outline of an original +round-arched window; while on both sides there are sloping lines in the +masonry, as if there had been an acutely-pointed gable here. + +The north side of the chapel has been propped at a late period by three +sloping buttresses. At its western end is a doorway, the jambs of which +seem original, while the pointed head is later. About half-way along +this side is one of those 'low side windows' through which, it is +supposed, the Sacrament was administered to lepers--indeed, the +leper-house stood on this side of the chapel.[127] Though of limestone, +this small lancet window, with its arch and dripstone trefoiled, is +apparently of the thirteenth century, and an early example of its +class. East of it are, first a Perpendicular window of two lights--late +in character, and second a partially-blocked and possibly original +doorway, perhaps for the priest, (though priests' doors are usually on +the south side). Its outer arch is rounded, while the inner is pointed +and has perhaps been altered. + +The east window is broad, finely arched, and surmounted by a bold +dripstone terminating in heads. Its four lights, partially blocked, are +round-headed, with rather large cusps, and in the upper part of the +window there is much tracery, in which perpendicular lines lead up to +arches that intersect. Indeed it is difficult to say whether this fine +window is an example of late Perpendicular, or of the transition to that +style from the Decorated. + +It is on the south side that the irregularity in the size, spacing, and +level of the windows in this chapel is most marked. Here toward the +eastern end is a square-headed Perpendicular window of two lights, much +resembling the south window at St. Anne's Hospital, and surmounted by a +square label. Next comes a small lancet, probably Early English, with no +limestone about it. The next window is tall, rectangular, and without +tracery, but the stump of a mullion remains on the sill, which is of +gritstone. West of this is the principal entrance, a Norman arch, +beneath which a pointed arch has been inserted, the original imposts, +however, remaining. The upper arch is enriched with the chevron, and its +dripstone with two rows of the round billet arranged chequerwise and +with a moulding composed of a series of little crosses, rather +suggestive of the dog-tooth. + +The interior has up to this time escaped 'restoration.' There have been +repairs, but enough only to arrest decay, and the plaster has not been +removed from the walls.[128] The length internally is about 49 feet and +the breadth just over 16 feet. The floor is of brick, and the roof, +which is almost flat, has been much renovated, but retains its original +massive cross beams and wooden corbels. Internally the two western +doorways are rounded, and just east of them the chapel is crossed by a +late Perpendicular screen, which retains its folding doors, and has an +uncommon effect due to the great length of the mullions in the upper +part. The lower portion was once closed. It is perhaps more probable +that this is the original position of the screen than that it ever +stretched across the Sanctuary. Against the north wall is a fine old +chest raised on feet and bound with many iron clamps ending in scrolls. +It has a double lock and a ring at either end, and inside it is kept a +curious bell of wood painted to resemble metal, and said to have been +hung in the bell-cote by an unscrupulous official who had caused the +real bell to be sold. + +The 'low side window' internally has a depressed pointed arch, and is +widely splayed, as are also the tall and the short window opposite. It +is remarkable that although the windows differ so much externally, yet +internally all except the 'low side window' and the east window are of +the form known as the 'shouldered arch,' a form which, by-the-way, is +more usually employed in doorways. + +In front of the Sanctuary are preserved two old Perpendicular pews or +stalls, with carved finials. The Sanctuary itself is raised on two +steps, and extends eight feet from the east wall. The blocked door +noticed on the exterior would open into the chapel immediately west of +the line of the lower step. + +This is among the very few churches in the country which retain the +pre-Reformation stone altar, and if the instance at St. Anne's Hospital +is genuine, Ripon thus possesses two examples of this rare feature. The +altar here is 7 feet 7 inches long, 3 feet 5 inches wide, 2 feet 11 +inches high, and has no step. Two of the usual five incised crosses (the +larger cross near the middle is probably spurious) may still be traced +upon the slab, the lower edge of which is chamfered off. In the front of +the substructure are two deep recesses. The altar is flanked by two +stone brackets. On the north wall is a third, and in the south wall a +piscina with two-cusped arch and projecting basin. + +In front of the altar is a tessellated pavement 11 feet long and nearly +4 feet wide. It is chiefly composed of red and blackish _tesserae_; but +in the centre is a circular medallion containing a large four-petalled +white flower with a red centre and small red flowers between the petals, +all upon a ground of black. It has been supposed that this pavement was +taken from the neighbouring remains of some Roman building. As regards +the central medallion this is probably the case, but the rest of the +pavement seems to be later work, perhaps of the thirteenth century.[129] +At the south end of the pavement is the slab of another and smaller +altar, retaining three of its incised crosses. + +It appears from a document of 1306 that the chapel at that date +contained certain 'relics' of St. Mary Magdalene. + +Of the mediaeval bridges of Ripon =The North Bridge= alone survives.[130] +It crosses the Ure on nine arches with bold buttresses, triangular in +plan, between them, and is prolonged, with three smaller arches, over +the low meadow which forms the southern shore. It is from this shore +that the best view of it is to be obtained, a few yards down stream. The +arches, some of them recessed, vary in height and span, but all are +round save two, over one of which there is a corbel-table below the +parapet. The other side of the bridge was remodelled some twenty years +ago. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[122] In the mediaeval records the street is almost invariably called +Annesgate, and indeed was probably named after the hospital. The form +'Agnesgate' is, however, not modern, for it occurs in 1462. It may have +arisen from a trisyllabic pronunciation of 'Annesgate.' + +[123] Thus far I am largely indebted to a paper on this hospital by the +Rev. W. C. Lukis, F.S.A. in the twelfth edition of Walbran's _Ripon_. + +[124] Possibly those of Boynton or Plumpton (_Parker_). + +[125] The house is not shown. + +[126] This latter peculiarity is found also in a house at Bishopton, a +mile off. + +[127] Some archaeologists, however, hold that the purpose of low side +windows was to display a light to scare away demons. + +[128] It is probable that in the interior of many of our old churches +the surface of the stone was never meant to be seen, and was covered +with plaster at the time of building. The plaster was doubtless often +adorned with designs in colour. + +[129] This view is held by Mr. Micklethwaite. The white _tesserae_ in the +medallion resemble some which were dug up in 1837 on the site assigned +by Leland to the 'Old Abbay of Ripon' and which have been adduced to +support the view that Wilfrid's Abbey Church stood on that site and not +on the site of the present Cathedral (see p. 77 and n. 4 there). + +[130] The others were Bondgate Bridge (over the Skell), Bishopton Bridge +(over the Laver), Hewick Bridge (over the Ure below the town), the +Archer-bridge, and the 'Esgel-bridge.' The position of the two last is +uncertain, and the rest have long been rebuilt. Bishopton Bridge had a +chapel upon it with which was connected a hermit. In the middle ages the +bridges were under the charge of the Archbishop. They were often the +recipients of bequests, but were themselves made to contribute to the +Common Fund of the Collegiate Church, by means of money-boxes which were +placed upon them. + + + + +APPENDIX. + + +ABBOTS OF THE SAXON MONASTERY. + + ST. EATA _c._ 657-661. + ST. WILFRID 661-709. + TATBERHT 709. + BOTWINE died 786. + ALBERHT 786-787. + SIGRED 787. + UILDEN OR WILDENG ? + + +CANONS OF STANWICK IN THE MEDIAEVAL COLLEGIATE CHURCH.[131] + + Geoffrey de Bockland _circa_ 1226. + Laurence de Topcliffe _circa_ 1230. + Eadmund de Maundevill resigned 1279. + Anthony Beck[132] 1279. + Roger Swayne _c._ 1285-_c._ 1311. + Richard de Henney 1311-_c._ 1315. + William de Seton 1316-_c._ 1320. + Thomas de Cave 1320-_c._ 1322. + Robert de Rypon 1322-_c._ 1333. + Peter de Wetwang 1333. + John de Crakhall _c._ 1344-_c._ 1378. + John de Seggefield 1378-1384. + John de Middleton 1384-1397. + John de Dene[133] 1397-_c._ 1435. + Simon Alcock 1435-_c._ 1436. + Richard Morton 1436-? 1447. + John Clere ? 1447-1478. + Robert Symson 1479-1481. + Thomas Bakehouse 1481-_c._ 1521. + Richard Dean _c._ 1535-_c._ 1545. + Christopher Seale _c._ 1545-? 1547. + + +DEANS OF KING JAMES I.'S FOUNDATION. + + Moses Fowler, B.D. 1604-1608. + Anthony Higgin, B.D. 1608-1624. + John Wilson, D.D. 1624-1634. + Thomas Dod, D.D.[134] 1635-_c._ 1645. + John Wilkins, D.D., F.R.S.[135] 1660-1668. + John Neile, D.D.[136] 1674-1675. + Thomas Tullie, D.D. 1675. + Thomas Cartwright, D.D.[137] 1675-1686. + Christopher Wyvill, D.D.[138] 1686-1710. + Heneage Dering, LL.D.[139] 1710-1750. + Francis Wanley, D.D.[140] 1750-1791. + Robert Darley Waddilove, LL.D., F.S.A.[141] 1792-1828. + James Webber, D.D. 1828- + + +DEANS OF THE CATHEDRAL FOUNDATION. + + James Webber, D.D.[142] -1847. + The Hon. Henry David Erskine, D.D.[143] 1847-1859. + Thomas Garnier, B.C.L. 1859-1860. + William Goode, D.D., F.S.A. 1860-1868. + Hugh M'Neile, D.D. 1868-1876. + Sydney Turner, B.A. 1876. + William Robert Fremantle, D.D. 1876-1895. + The Hon. William Henry Fremantle, D.D. 1895. + + +BISHOPS OF RIPON. + + EADHEAD 681-686. + CHARLES THOMAS LONGLEY, D.D., F.S.A.[144] 1836-1856. + ROBERT BICKERSTETH, D.D., F.R.S.[145] 1857-1884. + WILLIAM BOYD-CARPENTER, D.D. 1884. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[131] The mediaeval College of Canons had no official head, but the +Prebendary of Stanwick, as Ruler of the Choir, was generally in +residence, and was in some sense the most important of the Canons. He +did not, however, preside, at least not if any other Canon was in +residence. Thus Christopher Dragley (Prebendary of Monkton) was often +_Praesidens Capituli_ from 1533 to 1539, and Marmaduke Bradley +(Prebendary of Thorp) from 1544 to 1546. + +[132] Afterwards the celebrated Bishop of Durham, one of the most +prominent personages at the court of Edward I. + +[133] A brass to him is preserved in the Cathedral. The inscription was +probably cut in his lifetime, for the space for the date of his death is +left blank. He helped to found the chantry of St. Wilfrid, and is buried +in the Choir. + +[134] Deprived by the Parliament when they suppressed the Chapter. + +[135] One of the founders of the Royal Society: married Oliver +Cromwell's sister: became Bishop of Chester. + +[136] Buried near the vestry door. + +[137] Became Bishop of Chester, and was a strong supporter of James II. + +[138] Buried within the Altar-rails (brass). + +[139] Buried in the north choir-aisle (tablet). + +[140] Buried in the Cathedral (formerly there was a tablet in the south +aisle of the nave). + +[141] Tablet in the Chapter-house. + +[142] Buried within the Altar-rails. + +[143] Buried in the graveyard near the north-east corner of the choir +(tomb by Sir Gilbert Scott). + +[144] Afterwards Bishop of Durham, then Archbishop of York, and finally +Archbishop of Canterbury. The modern diocese of Ripon does not +correspond in area with that over which Eadhead presided (_see Chap. +I._) + +[145] Buried in the graveyard near the south-east corner of the choir. + + + + +INDEX. + + + ABBOTS, list of, 142. + + Ailcy Hill, 9. + + Aisles of the nave, 78; + south aisle, 79; + north aisle, 81; + of the choir, (north) 113; + (south) 115. + + Archbishops of York, 13 _et seq._ + + Athelstan, King, 9. + + + BAS-RELIEF of lion, 80. + + Bedern, the, 24, 26, 34. + + Bells, the, 43. + + Bishops of Ripon, 143. + + Bridge, the North, 141. + + + CANONS, irregularities of the, 23. + + Canons of Stanwick, list of, 142. + + Chantries, 28. + + Chapter, the, 29, 30; + re-established, 31, 33, 34, 37. + + Chapter-house, the, 53, 122-125. + + Charles I., 34. + + Choir, the, 49, 58; + interior, 96-117. + + College of Canons, the, 12, 17, 22, 30. + + Courts, ecclesiastical and secular, 19, 31, 37. + + Crypt, the Saxon, 71-78; + the Norman, 117-120. + + Cuthbert, St., 4, 11, 12. + + + DEANERY, the, 133. + + Deans, list of, 143. + + Dedication by Wilfrid, 6. + + Diocese of Ripon, 36. + + + EADHEAD, Bishop of Ripon, 7. + + East End, the, 60. + + Eata, first Abbot, 4, 12. + + Edward I., 25. + + + FONTS, the, 79. + + Grammar-School, Ripon, 14, 30-36. + + Gray, Archbishop Walter de, 11, 16, 21. + + + HENRY IV., 26. + + Henry V., 11. + + + JAMES I., 31, 33. + + + LADY-KIRK, the, 22, 27. + + Lady-loft, the, 54, 129. + + Liberty of Ripon, 19-37. + + Library, the, 130. + + + MALLORY Chapel, 93. + + Markenfield Chapel and tombs, 90. + + Monastery of Ripon, the (Scottish), 4; + (Saxon), 5; + end of, 12. + + + NAVE, rebuilding of, 27, 69; + north side, exterior, 44; + south side, 50; + interior, 65. + + + ODA, Archbishop of Canterbury, 11. + + Organ, the, 111. + + Oswald, Archbishop, 11. + + + PALACE, Archiepiscopal, 24, 35. + + Peculiar, the parish a, 19, 31, 37. + + Prebends, 12, 14, 17, 18, 23, 26. + + Presbytery, arrangement of the, 104. + + Pulpit (Old) in north transept, 88. + + + Ripon Minster, foundation of the Scottish monastery, 4; + original site of, 5; + dedication of new church, 6; + end of monastery, 12; + as a collegiate church, 12, 22; + as a parochial church, 18, 22; + present church built, 15; + central tower reconstructed, 27; + nave rebuilt, 27. + + Rising in the North, the, 30. + + Roger de Pont l'Eveque, Archbishop, 15; + his plan, 16, 67. + + Rood Screen, the, 94. + + + ST. AGNES' Lodge, 136. + + St. Anne's Hospital, 133. + + St. John's Hospital, 36. + + St. Mary Magdalene's Hospital, 35, 137. + + Sanctuary, right of, 9, 23, 30. + + Saxon monastery, the, 5. + + Scots, incursion of, 25. + + Scottish monastery, the, 4. + + Sedilia, the, 104. + + Site, original, 5. + + Spires, fall and removal of the, 34. + + Stalls, the choir, 106. + + Stammergate, 5, 22, 35. + + Stanwick, Prebend, 17, 18, 29, 142. + + + THEODORE, Archbishop of Canterbury, 6. + + Thomas of Bayeux, Archbishop, 13. + + Thorp, prebendal house, 36, 136. + + Throne, the Bishop's, 111; + the Archbishop's, 36. + + Thurstan, Archbishop, 73, 14. + + Tower, the central, 45, 56; + interior, 82. + + Towers, western, 41. + + Transept, north, 46; + south, 51, 56; + interior, 85; + north, 86; + south, 91. + + + VAULT-BOSSES in choir, 103. + + Vaulting, north transept, 91. + + Vestry, the, 125. + + + WAKEMAN, the, 33. + + West front, the, 16, 40, 43; + interior, 68. + + West Gate, the, demolished, 35. + + Wilfrid, St., 4, 6, 7, 8, 12, 75; + relics of, 11, 16; + translation of, 14; + shrine of, 14, 29, 81; + crypt of, 31, 71. + + William, St., of York (Archbishop Fitzherbert), 15. + + Window, east, 34, 62, 102. + + Wolsey, Archbishop, 33. + + Wulfstan, Archbishop, 10. + + +[Illustration: GROUND PLAN OF RIPON CATHEDRAL.] + + + + +DIMENSIONS (internal). + + Total Length, 270 feet + Length of Nave, 133 " + Width of Nave, 87 " + Width of Transept, 52 " + Height of Vault (Nave), 88 " + Height of Towers, 110 " + Area, 25,280 square feet. + + +PRINTED BY NEILL AND CO., LTD., EDINBURGH. + + + + * * * * * * + + + +Transcriber's Note + + The following obvious typographical errors were corrected: + + Page Error + 2 the Tower. changed to the Tower.) + 10, fn. 10 St Wilfrid's changed to St. Wilfrid's + 111 ascendency changed to ascendancy + 115, fn. 103 Surtee's changed to Surtees + 118 anyrate changed to any rate + 136 acolyte's Orders changed to acolyte's Orders. + + + The following words were inconsistently spelled: + + afterthought / after-thought + Agnesgate / Agnes-gate + aisleless / aisle-less + stonework / stone-work + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BELL'S CATHEDRALS: THE CATHEDRAL +CHURCH OF RIPON*** + + +******* This file should be named 25800.txt or 25800.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/5/8/0/25800 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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