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+Project Gutenberg's Celebrated Travels and Travellers, by Jules Verne
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Celebrated Travels and Travellers
+ Part 2. The Great Navigators of the Eighteenth Century
+
+Author: Jules Verne
+
+Illustrator: Paul Philippoteaux
+ Léon Benett
+ Matthis
+
+Release Date: June 14, 2008 [EBook #25784]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CELEBRATED TRAVELS AND TRAVELLERS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Ron Swanson (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian
+Libraries)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CELEBRATED TRAVELS AND TRAVELLERS.
+
+THE GREAT NAVIGATORS OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+
+
+
+
+LONDON:
+GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
+ST. JOHN'S SQUARE.
+
+
+
+
+[Frontispiece: Hoisting the signals for triangulation.]
+
+
+
+
+CELEBRATED TRAVELS AND TRAVELLERS.
+THE GREAT NAVIGATORS OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+
+BY JULES VERNE.
+
+
+
+
+WITH 96 ILLUSTRATIONS BY PHILIPPOTEAUX, BENETT, AND MATTHIS,
+AND 20 MAPS BY MATTHIS AND MORIEU.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH_.]
+
+
+
+
+London:
+SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,
+CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 1880.
+
+[_All rights reserved_.]
+
+
+
+
+PUBLISHERS' NOTE.
+
+
+This volume forms the second of three volumes under the _general
+title_ of CELEBRATED TRAVELS AND TRAVELLERS. The first volume, already
+published, is entitled THE EXPLORATION OF THE WORLD, and covers a
+period in the World's History extending from B.C. 505, to the close of
+the xviith century. The present volume extends over the xviiith
+century, and the third volume will give an account of the GREAT
+EXPLORERS AND TRAVELLERS OF THE XIXTH CENTURY.
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF WORKS CONSULTED.
+
+
+ANSON (Geo., Lord). "Voyage round the World in 1740-44."
+
+BARROW (Sir John). "Travels into the Interior of Southern Africa."
+London, 1806.
+
+BOUGAINVILLE (Com. de). "Voyage round the World, 1766-69." Paris, 1771.
+
+BRUCE (James). "Travels in Abyssinia between 1768-73." Edin., 1813.
+
+COOK (Captain James). "Second Voyage to the South Pole and Round the
+World, 1772-75." London, 1777.
+
+COOK and KING (Captain James). "Third Voyage to the Pacific Ocean,
+1776-80." London, 1784.
+
+GROSIER (L'Abbe). "China, General Description of the Empire." Paris,
+1735.
+
+HAWKESWORTH (Dr. J.). "Account of the Voyages of Discovery in the
+Southern Hemisphere by Commodore Byron, and Captains Wallis, Carteret,
+and Cook." London, 1773.
+
+KENNEDY. "New Zealand." London, 1873.
+
+LABILLARDIERE (T.). "Voyage in Search of La Perouse, 1791-93." Paris,
+1801.
+
+MASON. "Costumes of China." London, 1800.
+
+PARK (Mungo). "Travels in Africa." London, 1815-16.
+
+PARKINSON (S.). "Voyage to the South Seas." London, 1784.
+
+PERON (F.) and FREYCINET (Louis d'). "Voyage to Australasia, 1800-4."
+Paris, 1808.
+
+PEROUSE (J. Fr. G. de la). "Voyage round the World, 1785-88." Paris,
+1798.
+
+"TRANSACTIONS of the French Academy of Sciences," Vol. 7. Paris.
+
+VAILLANT (Fr. le). "Travels in the Interior of Africa." Paris, 1790.
+
+VANCOUVER (Capt. G.). "Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean,
+and round the World, from 1790-95." London, 1798.
+
+
+
+
+THE GREAT NAVIGATORS OF THE 18TH CENTURY.
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS
+
+REPRODUCED IN FAC-SIMILE FROM THE ORIGINAL DOCUMENTS, GIVING THE
+SOURCES WHENCE THEY ARE DERIVED.
+
+
+PART THE FIRST.
+ PAGE
+Hoisting the signals for triangulation . . . . . . . . _Frontispiece_
+
+Pierre Louis Moreau de Maupertuis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
+
+Selkirk falling over the precipice with his prey . . . . . . . . . 15
+
+"I plunged my pike into his breast" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
+
+Fight between the _Centurion_ and a Spanish galleon . . . . . . . 22
+
+"The council chose the latter alternative" . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
+
+"Most of them on horseback" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
+
+"One of them tore the carrion with his teeth" . . . . . . . . . . 37
+
+"They made a thousand grimaces" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
+
+The natives waving palm-leaves as a sign of welcome . . . . . . . 52
+
+Head-dresses of natives of Otahiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
+
+"Pursued by the arrows of the natives" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
+
+A struggle between the _Swallow_ and a Malay prah . . . . . . . . 68
+
+Portrait of Bougainville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
+
+"We made them sing" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
+
+Lancers' Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
+
+Pirogue of the Marquesas Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
+
+Mdlle. Barre's adventure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
+
+Captain James Cook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
+
+"They were pursued so closely" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
+
+Otahitian flute-player . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
+
+A Fa-toka, New Zealand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
+
+Interior of a morai in Hawaii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
+
+Tatooed head of a New Zealander . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
+
+An I-pah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
+
+A New Zealand family . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
+
+"They were kangaroos" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
+
+Otahitian fleet off Oparee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
+
+"Three Indians emerged from the wood" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
+
+Among the icebergs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
+
+New Zealand war canoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
+
+New Zealand utensils and weapons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
+
+"Who passed his days in being fed by his wives" . . . . . . . . . 148
+
+O-Too, King of Otaheite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
+
+Monuments in Easter Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
+
+Natives of Easter Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
+
+Natives of the Marquesas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
+
+Typical natives of the Sandwich Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
+
+"The natives had sufficient confidence" . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
+
+"With the roof of considerable height" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
+
+View of Christmas Sound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
+
+Kerguelen Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
+
+Fete in Cook's honour at Tonga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
+
+Human sacrifice at Otahiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
+
+Tree, from beneath which Cook observed the transit of Venus . . . 190
+
+Cook's reception by the natives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
+
+Prince William's Sound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
+
+"They gave him a little pig" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
+
+
+PART THE SECOND.
+
+Pirogues of the Admiralty Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
+
+"Picking up the enemies' weapons" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
+
+"A lighted brand was also presented to them" . . . . . . . . . . . 225
+
+"The only one who had escaped" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
+
+"A man's skull was found" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
+
+Portrait of La Perouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
+
+Costumes of the inhabitants of Conception . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
+
+Inhabitants of Easter Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
+
+Typical natives of the Port des Francais . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
+
+Shipwreck of French boats outside the Port des Francais . . . . . 251
+
+"An Indian with a stag's head over his own" . . . . . . . . . . . 253
+
+He traced the coast of Tartary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
+
+Typical Orotchys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
+
+Portrait of D'Entrecasteaux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
+
+"They came upon four natives" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
+
+Fete in honour of D'Entrecasteaux at the Friendly Islands . . . . 285
+
+Typical native of New Holland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
+
+Natives of New Caledonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289
+
+View of the Island of Bouron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
+
+Native hut in Endracht Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
+
+King of the Island of Timor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
+
+The Swan River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
+
+"A sail was seen on the horizon" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
+
+"The sick were carried on shore" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
+
+View of Sydney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
+
+Water-carrier at Timor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
+
+"He received a cordial welcome" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
+
+The Baobab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
+
+Portrait of Mungo Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
+
+Natives of Senegal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
+
+A Hottentot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
+
+A Bosjeman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
+
+"Till Master Rees had given his verdict" . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
+
+A Kaffir woman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
+
+Portrait of James Bruce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352
+
+"I found the monarch seated on his throne" . . . . . . . . . . . . 357
+
+Chinese magic-lantern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
+
+The Emperor of China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
+
+The great wall of China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369
+
+Chinese Prime Minister . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
+
+"The famous bird Leutze" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372
+
+Port Monterey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381
+
+Mackenzie's first view of the North Pacific Ocean . . . . . . . . 389
+
+Portrait of Condamine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390
+
+Celebrated Narrows of Manseriche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391
+
+Omagua Indians . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393
+
+Portrait of Alex. de Humboldt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395
+
+Gigantic vegetation on the banks of the Temi . . . . . . . . . . . 400
+
+
+
+
+MAPS.
+
+
+Map of France, corrected by order of the King, in accordance with
+ the instructions of the Members of the Academy of Sciences . . . 10
+
+Map of the Eastern Hemisphere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
+
+Straits of Magellan, after Bougainville . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
+
+Polynesia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
+
+Map of Queen Charlotte Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
+
+New Zealand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
+
+Louisiade Archipelago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
+
+Map of Australia, after Perron's atlas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
+
+Map of the east coast of New Holland, after Cook . . . . . . . . . 126
+
+Captain Cook's chart of Otaheite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
+
+Itinerary of the principal voyagers during the 18th century, after
+ Cook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
+
+Map of Surville's discoveries, after Fleurieu . . . . . . . . . . 212
+
+Island discovered by M. Marion du Fresnes in 1772, called Prince
+ Edward's Island by Cook in 1776 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
+
+Map of the journey of La Perouse, after the atlas published by
+ General Millet-Mureau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
+
+Map of the coast of Asia, after the map of La Perouse's voyage . . 258
+
+Map of part of North Africa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320
+
+Map of part of Western Africa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
+
+Map of the Empire of China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362
+
+Map of North-West America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380
+
+Map of the two Americas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
+
+Itinerary of Humboldt's route in equinoctial America . . . . . . . 399
+
+
+
+
+TABLE OF CONTENTS.
+
+
+FIRST PART.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+I.
+ASTRONOMERS AND CARTOGRAPHERS.
+ PAGE
+Cassini, Picard, and La Hire--The Meridian line and the map of
+ France--G. Delisle and D'Anville--The shape of the earth--
+ Maupertuis in Lapland--Condamine at the Equator . . . . . . . . 3
+
+II.
+VOYAGES IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+
+Expedition of Wood Rogers--Adventures of Alexander Selkirk--
+ Galapagos Island--Puerto Seguro--Return to England--Expedition
+ of George Anson--Staten Island--Juan Fernandez--Tinian--Macao--
+ Taking of the vessel--Canton river--Results of the Cruise . . . 13
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+CAPTAIN COOK'S PREDECESSORS.
+
+I.
+
+Roggewein--Scanty information respecting him--The uncertainty of
+ his discoveries--Easter Island--The Pernicious Islands--Bauman
+ Islands--New Britain--Arrival at Batavia--Byron--Stay at Rio
+ Janeiro and Port Desire--Entrance into Magellan's Strait--
+ Falkland Islands and Port Egmont--The Fuegians--Mas-a-fuero--
+ Disappointment Islands--Danger Islands--Tinian--Return to
+ Europe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
+
+II.
+
+Wallis and Carteret--Preparations for the Expedition--Difficult
+ Navigation of the Strait of Magellan--Separation of the
+ _Dauphin_ and _Swallow_--Whitsunday Island--Queen Charlotte's
+ Island--Cumberland and Henry Islands--Otaheite--Howe, Boscawen,
+ and Keppel Islands--Wallis Islands--Batavia--The Cape--The
+ Downs--Discovery of Pitcairn, Osnaburgh, and Gloucester Islands
+ by Carteret--Santa Cruz Archipelago--Solomon Islands--St.
+ George's Strait and New Ireland--Portland Island and the
+ Admiralty Islands--Macassar and Batavia--Meeting with
+ Bougainville in the Atlantic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
+
+III.
+
+Bougainville--Changes in the life of a Notary's son--Colonization
+ of the Falkland Islands--Buenos Ayres and Rio Janiero--Cession
+ of the Falkland Islands to Spain--Hydrographical Survey of the
+ Straits of Magellan--The Pecherais--The Four Facardins--
+ Otaheite--Incidents of stay there--Productions of the country
+ and manners of the people--Samoan Islands--Tierra del Santo
+ Espirito or the New Hebrides--The Louisiade--Anchorite
+ Islands--New Guinea--Buotan--From Batavia to St. Malo . . . . . 71
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE.
+
+I.
+
+The beginning of his maritime career--The command of the
+ _Adventure_ entrusted to him--Tierra del Fuego--Discovery of
+ some islands in the Pomotou Archipelago--Arrival at Otaheite--
+ Manners and Customs of the inhabitants--Discovery of other
+ islands in the Society group--Arrival off New Zealand--
+ Interview with the natives--Discovery of Cook's Strait--
+ Circumnavigation of two large islands--Manners of the people
+ and productions of the country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
+
+II.
+
+Survey of the Eastern Coast of Australia--Botany Bay--Wreck of
+ the _Endeavour_--Crossing Torres Straits--Return to England . . 125
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE.
+
+I.
+
+Search for the Unknown--Second stay in New Zealand--Pomotou
+ Archipelago--Second Stay at Otaheite--Survey of Tonga Islands--
+ Third stay in New Zealand--Second crossing of the Pacific--
+ Survey of Easter Island--Visit to the Marquesas . . . . . . . . 135
+
+II.
+
+Fresh visit to Otaheite and the Friendly Archipelago--Exploration
+ of the New Hebrides--Discovery of New Caledonia and the Island
+ of Pines--Stay in Queen Charlotte's Strait--South Georgia--
+ Accident to the _Adventure_ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE.
+
+I.
+
+Search for lands discovered by the French--Stay in Van Diemen's
+ land--Queen Charlotte's Strait--Palmerston Island--Grand fetes
+ at the Tonga Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
+
+II.
+
+Discovery of the Sandwich Islands--Exploration of the Western
+ Coast of America--From thence to Behring Straits--Return to the
+ Hawaian Archipelago--History of Rono--Cook's death--Return of
+ the Expedition to England . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
+
+
+SECOND PART.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+FRENCH NAVIGATORS.
+
+I.
+
+Discoveries by Bouvet de Lozier in the Southern Seas--Surville--
+ Land of the Arsacides--Incident during the stay at Port
+ Praslin--Arrival off the Coast of New Ireland--Surville's
+ death--Marion's discoveries in the Antarctic Ocean--His massacre
+ in New Zealand--Kerguelen in Iceland and the Arctic Regions--The
+ Contest of the Watches--Fleurien and Verdun de la Crenne . . . . 209
+
+II.
+
+Expedition under command of La Perouse--St. Catherine's Island--
+ Conception Island--Sandwich Islands--Survey of the American
+ Coast--Fort des Francais--Loss of two boats--Monterey and the
+ Indians of California--Stay at Macao--Cavite and Manilla--En
+ route for China and Japan--Formosa--Quelpaert Island--The Coast
+ of Tartary--Ternay Bay--The Tartars of Saghalien--The
+ Orotchys--Straits of La Perouse--Ball at Kamtchatka--Navigator
+ Archipelago--Massacre of M. de Langle and several of his
+ companions--Botany Bay--Cessation of news of the expedition--
+ D'Entrecasteaux sent in search of La Perouse--False News--Strait
+ of D'Entrecasteaux--The Coast of New Caledonia--Land of the
+ Arsacides--Natives of Bouka--Stay at Port Carteret--Admiralty
+ Islands--Stay at Amboine--Lewin Land--Nuyts Land--Stay in
+ Tasmania--Fete in the Friendly Islands--Details of La Perouse's
+ visit to Tonga Tabou--Stay at Balado--Traces of La Perouse's
+ Voyage to New Caledonia--Vanikoro--Sad end of the Expedition . . 241
+
+III.
+
+Voyage by Captain Marchand--The Marquesas--Discovery of
+ Nouka-Hiva--Manners and Customs of the people--Revolution
+ Islands--The American Coast and Tchinkitane Port--Cox's
+ Straits--Stay in the Sandwich Islands--Macao--Deception--Return
+ to France--Discoveries by Bass and Flinders upon the Australian
+ coast--Expedition under Captain Baudin--Endracht and De Witt
+ Lands--Stay at Timor--Survey of Van Diemen's land--Separation of
+ the _Geographe_ and _Naturaliste_--Stay at Port Jackson--The
+ Convicts--Pastoral riches of New South Wales--Return of the
+ _Naturaliste_ to France--Cruises by the _Geographe_ and
+ _Casuarina_ to Nuyts, Edels, Endracht and De Witt Lands--Second
+ Stay at Timor--Return to France . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+AFRICAN EXPLORERS.
+
+Shaw in Algeria and Tunis--Hornemann in the Fezzan--Adanson in
+ Senegal--Houghton in Senegambia--Mungo Park and his two journeys
+ to the Djoliba or Niger--Sego and Timbuctoo--Sparmann and Le
+ Vaillant at the Cape, at Natal, and in the interior--Lacerda at
+ Mozambique and Cazembe--Bruce in Abyssinia--The Sources of the
+ Blue Nile--Tzana Lake--Browne's Voyage in Darfur . . . . . . . . 320
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+ASIA AND ITS INHABITANTS.
+
+Tartary according to Witzen--China according to the Jesuits and Du
+ Halde--Macartney in China--Stay at Chu-Sang--Arrival in Nankin--
+ Negotiations--Reception of the Embassy by the Emperor--Fetes and
+ ceremonies at Zhe Hol--Return to Pekin, and Europe--Volney--
+ Choiseul Gouffier--Le Chevalier in the Troade--Olivier in
+ Persia--A semi-Asiatic country--Russia according to Pallas . . . 361
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+THE TWO AMERICAS.
+
+The Western Coast of America--Juan de Fuca and De Fonte--The three
+ voyages of Behring and Vancouver--The exploration of the Straits
+ of De Fuca--Survey of the Archipelago of New Georgia and a
+ portion of the American Coast--Exploration of the interior of
+ America--Samuel Hearn--Discovery of the Coppermine River--
+ Mackenzie, and the river named after him--Fraser River--Journey
+ of Humboldt and De Bonpland--Teneriffe--Guachero cavern--The
+ "Llanos"--The electric eels--The Amazon, Negro, and Orinoco
+ rivers--The earth-eaters--Results of the journey--Humboldt's
+ second journey--The Volcanitos, or Little Volcanoes--The cascade
+ at Tequendama--The bridges of Icononzo--Crossing the Quindiu on
+ men's backs--Quito and the Pinchincha--Ascent of Chimborazo--The
+ Andes--Lima--The transit of Mercury--Exploration of Mexico--
+ Mexico--Puebla and Cofre de Perote--Return to Europe . . . . . . 380
+
+
+
+
+PART I.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+I.
+ASTRONOMERS AND CARTOGRAPHERS.
+
+Cassini--Picard and La Hire--The arc of the Meridian and the Map of
+France--G. Delisle and D'Anville--The Shape of the Earth--Maupertuis
+in Lapland--Condamine at the Equator.
+
+
+Before we enter upon a recital of the great expeditions of the
+eighteenth century, we shall do well to chronicle the immense progress
+made during that period by the sciences. They rectified a crowd of
+prejudices and established a solid basis for the labours of
+astronomers and geographers. If we refer them solely to the matter
+before us, they radically modified cartography, and ensured for
+navigation a security hitherto unknown.
+
+Although Galileo had observed the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites as
+early as 1610, his important discovery had been rendered useless by
+the indifference of Governments, the inadequacy of instruments, and
+the mistakes committed by his followers.
+
+In 1660 Jean Dominique Cassini published his "Tables of the Satellites
+of Jupiter," which induced Colbert to send for him the following year,
+and which obtained for him the superintendence of the Paris
+Observatory.
+
+In the month of July, 1671, Philippe de la Hire went to Uraniborg in
+the Island of Huen, to take observations for the situation of Tycho
+Brahe's Observatory. In that spot he calculated with the assistance of
+Cassini's Tables, and with an exactitude never before obtained, the
+difference between the longitudes of Paris and Uraniborg.
+
+The Academy of Sciences sent the astronomer Jean Richter the same year
+to Cayenne, to study the parallaxes of the sun and moon, and to
+determine the distance of Mars and Venus from the earth. This voyage,
+which was entirely successful, was attended with unforeseen
+consequences, and resulted in inquiries shortly after entered into as
+to the shape of the earth.
+
+Richter noticed that the pendulum lost two minutes, twenty-eight
+seconds at Cayenne, which proved that the momentum was less at this
+place than at Paris. From this fact, Newton and Huyghens deduced the
+flatness of the Globe at the Poles. Shortly afterwards, however, the
+computation of a terrestrial degree given by Abbe Picard, and the
+determination of the Meridional arc, arrived at by the Cassinis,
+father and son, led scientific men to an entirety different result,
+and induced them to consider the earth an elliptical figure, elongated
+towards the polar regions. Passionate discussions arose from this
+decision, and in them originated immense undertakings, from which
+astronomical and mathematical geography profited.
+
+Picard undertook to estimate the space contained between the parallels
+of Amiens and Malvoisine, which comprises a degree and a third. The
+Academy, however, decided that a more exact result could be obtained
+by the calculation of a greater distance, and determined to portion
+out the entire length of France, from north to south, in degrees. For
+this purpose, they selected the meridian line which passes the Paris
+Observatory. This gigantic trigonometrical undertaking was commenced
+twenty years before the end of the seventeenth century, was
+interrupted, and recommenced, and finally finished towards 1720.
+
+At the same time Louis XIV., urged by Colbert, gave orders for the
+preparation of a map of France. Men of science undertook voyages from
+1679 to 1682, and by astronomical observations found the position of
+the coasts on the Ocean and Mediterranean. But even these undertakings,
+Picard's computation of the Meridional arc, the calculations which
+determined the latitude and longitude of certain large cities in
+France, and a map which gave the environs of Paris in detail with
+geometrical exactitude, were still insufficient data for a map of
+France.
+
+As in the measurement of the Meridional arc, the only course to adopt
+was to cover the whole extent of the country with a network of
+triangles. Such was the basis of the large map of France which justly
+bears the name of Cassini.
+
+The result of the earlier observations of Cassini and La Hire was to
+restrict France within much narrower limits than had hitherto been
+assigned to her.
+
+Desborough Cooley in his "History of Voyages," says, "They deprived
+her (France) of several degrees of longitude in the length of her
+western coast, from Brittany to the Bay of Biscay. And in the same way
+retrenched about half a degree from Languedoc and La Provence." These
+alterations gave rise to a "bon-mot." Louis the XIV., in complimenting
+the Academicians upon their return, remarked, "I am sorry to see,
+gentlemen, that your journey has cost me a good part of my kingdom!"
+
+So far, however, cartographers had ignored the corrections made by
+astronomers. In the middle of the seventeenth century, Peiresc and
+Gassendi had corrected upon the maps of the Mediterranean a difference
+of "five hundred" miles of distance between Marseilles and Alexandria.
+This important rectification was set aside as non-existent until the
+hydrographer, Jean Matthieu de Chazelles, who had assisted Cassini in
+his labours, was sent to the Levant to draw up a coast-chart for the
+Mediterranean.
+
+"It was sufficiently clear," say the Memoirs of the Academy of
+Sciences, that the maps unduly extended the Continents of Europe,
+Africa, and America, and narrowed the Pacific Ocean between Asia and
+Europe. These errors had caused singular mistakes. During M. de
+Chaumont's voyage, when he went as Louis XIV.'s ambassador to Siam,
+the pilots, trusting to their charts, were mistaken in their
+calculations, and both in going and in returning went a good deal
+further than they imagined. In proceeding from the Cape of Good Hope
+to the island of Java they imagined themselves a long way from the
+Strait of Sunda, when in reality they were more than sixty leagues
+beyond it. And they were forced to put back for two days with a
+favourable wind to enter it. In the same way upon their return voyage
+from the Cape of Good Hope to France, they found themselves at the
+island of Flores, the most western of the Azores, when they conceived
+themselves to be at least a hundred and fifty leagues eastward of it.
+They were obliged to navigate for twelve days in an easterly direction
+in order to reach the French coast. As we have already said, the
+corrections made in the map of France were considerable. It was
+recognized that Perpignan and Collioures more especially were far more
+to the east than had been supposed. To gain a fair idea of the
+alteration, one has only to glance at the map of France published in
+the first part of the seventh volume of the memoirs of the Academy of
+Sciences. All the astronomical observations to which we have called
+attention are noted in it, and the original outline of the map,
+published by Sanson in 1679, makes the modification apparent.
+
+[Illustration: Map of France, corrected by order of the king, in
+accordance with the instructions of the Members of the Academy of
+Sciences. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+Cassini was right in saying that cartography was no longer at its
+height as a science. In reality, Sanson had blindly followed the
+longitudes of Ptolemy, without taking any note of astronomical
+observations. His sons and grandsons had simply re-edited his maps as
+they were completed, and other geographers followed the same course.
+
+William Delisle was the first to construct new maps, and to make use
+of modern discoveries. He arbitrarily rejected all that had been done
+before his time. His enthusiasm was so great that he had entirely
+carried out his project at the age of twenty-five. His brother, Joseph
+Nicolas, who taught astronomy in Russia, sent William materials for
+his maps. At the same time his younger brother, Delisle de la Ceyere,
+visited the coast of the Arctic Ocean, and astronomically fixed the
+position of the most important points. He embarked on board De
+Behring's vessel and died at Kamtchatka. That was the work of the
+three Delisles, but to William belongs the glory of having
+revolutionized geography.
+
+"He succeeded," says Cooley, "in reconciling ancient and modern
+computations, and in collecting an immense mass of documents. Instead
+of limiting his corrections to any one quarter of the earth, he
+directed them to the entire globe. By this means he earned the right
+to be considered the founder of modern geography."
+
+Peter the Great, on his way to Paris, paid a tribute to his merit by
+visiting him, and placing at his disposal all the information he
+himself possessed of the geography of Russia.
+
+Could there be a more conclusive testimony to his worth than this from
+a stranger? and if French geographers are excelled in these days by
+those of Germany and England, is it not consolatory and encouraging to
+them to know, that they have excelled in a science, in which they are
+now struggling to regain their former superiority?
+
+Delisle lived to witness the success of his pupil, J. B. d'Anville. If
+the latter is inferior to Adrian Valois in the matter of historical
+science, he deserved his high fame for the relative improvement of his
+outlines, and for the clear and artistic appearance of his maps.
+
+"It is difficult," says M. E. Desjardins, in his "Geographie de la
+Gaule Romaine," "to understand the slight importance which has been
+attributed to his works as a geographer, mathematician, and
+draughtsman." The latter more especially do justice to his great merit.
+D'Anville was the first to construct a map by scientific methods, and
+that of itself is sufficient glory. In the department of historical
+geography, D'Anville exhibited unusual good sense in discussion, and a
+marvellous topographical instinct for identifications, but it is well
+to remember that he was neither a man of science, nor even well versed
+in classic authorities. His most beautiful work is his map of Italy,
+the dimensions of which, hitherto exaggerated, extended from the east
+to the west in accordance with the ideas of the ancients.
+
+In 1735, Philip Buache, whose name as a geographer is justly
+celebrated, inaugurated a new method in his chart of the depths of the
+English Channel, by using contour levels to represent the variations
+of the soil.
+
+Ten years later d'Apres De Mannevillette published his "_Neptune
+Oriental_," in which he rectified the charts of the African, Chinese,
+and Indian coasts. He added to it a nautical guide, which was the more
+precious at this period, as it was the first of the kind. Up to the
+close of his life he amended his manual, which served as a guide for
+all French naval officers during the latter part of the eighteenth
+century.
+
+Of English astronomers and physicists, Hally was the chief. He
+published a theory of "Magnetic Variations," and a "History of the
+Monsoons," which gained for him the command of a vessel, that he might
+put his theory into practice.
+
+That which D'Apres achieved for the French, Alexander Dalrymple
+accomplished for the English. His views, however, bordered on the
+hypothetical, and he believed in the existence of an Antarctic
+Continent.
+
+He was succeeded by Horsburgh, whose name is justly dear to navigators.
+
+We must now speak of two important expeditions, which ought to have
+settled the animated discussion as to the shape of the earth. The
+Academy of Sciences had despatched a mission to America, to compute
+the arc of the meridian at the Equator. It was composed of Godin,
+Bouguer, and La Condamine.
+
+It was decided to entrust a similar expedition to the North to
+Maupertuis.
+
+[Illustration: Pierre Louis Moreau de Maupertuis.]
+
+"If," said this scientific man, "the flatness of the earth be not
+greater then Huyghens supposed, the margin between the degrees of the
+meridian measured in France, and the first degrees of the meridian
+near the Equator, would not be too considerable to be attributed to
+possible errors of the observers, or to the imperfection of
+instruments. But, if the observation can be made at the Pole, the
+difference between the first degree of the meridian nearest the
+equatorial line, and, for example, the sixty-sixth degree, which
+crosses the polar circle, will be great enough, even by Huyghens'
+hypothesis, to show itself irresistibly, and beyond the possibility of
+miscalculation, because the difference would be repeated just as many
+times as there are intermediate degrees."
+
+The problem thus neatly propounded ought to have obtained a ready
+solution both at the Pole and the Equator--a solution which would have
+settled the discussion, by proving Huyghens and Newton to be right.
+
+The expedition embarked in a vessel equipped at Dunkerque. In addition
+to Maupertuis, it comprised De Clairaut, Camus, and Lemonnier,
+Academicians, Albey Outhier, canon of Bayeux, a secretary named
+Sommereux, a draughtsman, Herbelot, and the scientific Swedish
+astronomer, Celsius.
+
+When the King of Sweden received the members of the mission at
+Stockholm, he said to them, "I have been in many bloody battles, but I
+should prefer finding myself in the midst of the most sanguinary,
+rather than join your expedition."
+
+Certainly, it was not likely to prove a party of pleasure. The learned
+adventurers were to be tested by difficulties of every kind, by
+continued privation, by excessive cold. But what comparison can be
+made between their sufferings, and the agonies, the trials and the
+dangers which were to be encountered by the Arctic explorers, Ross,
+Parry, Hall, Payer, and many others.
+
+Damiron in his "Eulogy of Maupertuis," says, "The houses at Tornea,
+north of the Gulf of Bothnia, almost in the Arctic Circle, are hidden
+under the snow. When one goes out, the air seems to pierce the lungs,
+the increasing degrees of frost are proclaimed by the incessant
+crackling of the wood, of which most of the houses are built. From the
+solitude which reigns in the streets, one might fancy that the
+inhabitants of the town were dead. At every step one meets mutilated
+figures, people who have lost arms or legs from the terrible severity
+of the temperature. And yet, the travellers did not intend pausing at
+Tornea."
+
+Now-a-days these portions of the globe are better known, and the
+region of the Arctic climate thoroughly appreciated, which makes it
+easier to estimate the difficulties the inquirers encountered.
+
+They commenced their operations in July, 1736. Beyond Tornea they
+found only uninhabited regions. They were obliged to rely upon their
+own resources for scaling the mountains, where they placed the signals
+intended to form the uninterrupted series of triangles.
+
+Divided into two parties in order thus to obtain two measurements
+instead of one, and thereby also to diminish the chance of mistakes,
+the adventurous savants, after inconceivable hairbreadth escapes, of
+which an account can be found in the Memoirs of the Academy of
+Sciences for 1737, and after incredible efforts, decided that the
+length of the meridian circle, comprised between the parallels of
+Tornea and Kittis was 55,023 fathoms and a half. Thus below the Polar
+circle, the meridian degree comprised a thousand fathoms more than
+Cassini had imagined, and the terrestrial degree exceeded by 377
+fathoms the length which Picard has reckoned it between Paris and
+Amiens.
+
+The result, therefore, of this discovery (a result long repudiated by
+the Cassinis, both father and son), was that the earth was
+considerably flattened at the poles.
+
+Voltaire somewhat maliciously said of it,--
+
+ Courrier de la physique, argonaute nouveau,
+ Qui, franchissant les monts, qui, traversant les eaux,
+ Ramenez des climats soumis aux trois couronnes,
+ Vos perches, vos secteurs et surtout deux Laponnes.
+ Vous avez confirme dans ces lieux pleins d'ennui
+ Ce que Newton connut sans sortir de lui.
+
+In much the same vein he alludes to the two sisters who accompanied
+Maupertuis upon his return, the attractions of one of whom proved
+irresistible,--
+
+ Cette erreur est trop ordinaire
+ Et c'est la seule que l'on fit
+ En allant au cercle polaire.
+
+M. A. Maury in his "History of the Academy of Sciences," remarks,--
+
+"At the same time, the importance of the instruments and methods
+employed by the astronomers sent to the North, afforded a support to
+the defenders of the theory of the flattening of the globes, which was
+hardly theirs by right, and in the following century the Swedish
+astronomer, Svanburg, rectified their involuntary exaggerations, in a
+fine work published by him in the French language."
+
+Meantime the mission despatched by the Academy to Peru proceeded with
+analogous operations. It consisted of La Condamine, Bouguer, and Godin,
+three Academicians, Joseph de Jussieu, Governor of the Medical College,
+who undertook the botanical branch, Seniergues, a surgeon, Godin des
+Odonais, a clock-maker, and a draughtsman. They started from La
+Rochelle, on the 16th of May, 1735.
+
+Upon reaching St. Domingo, they took several astronomical observations,
+and continued by way of Porto Bello, and Carthagena. Crossing the
+Isthmus of Panama, they disembarked at Manta in Peru, upon the 9th of
+March, 1736.
+
+Arrived there, Bouguer and Condamine parted from their companions,
+studied the rapidity of the pendulum, and finally reached Quito by
+different routes. Condamine pursued his way along the coast, as far as
+Rio de las Esmeraldas, and drew the map of the entire country, which
+he traversed with such infinite toil. Bouguer went southwards towards
+Guayaquil, passing through marshy forests, and reaching Caracol at the
+foot of the Cordillera range of the Andes, which he was a week in
+crossing. This route had been previously taken by Alvarado, when
+seventy of his followers perished; amongst them, the three Spaniards
+who had attempted to penetrate to the interior. Bouguer reached Quito
+on the 10th of June. At that time this city contained between thirty
+and forty thousand inhabitants, and boasted of an episcopal president
+of the Assembly, and numbers of religious communities, besides two
+colleges.
+
+Living there was cheap, with the exception of foreign merchandises,
+which realized exorbitant prices, so much so indeed, that a glass
+goblet fetched from eighteen to twenty francs.
+
+The adventurers scaled the Pichincha, a mountain near Quito, the
+eruptions from which had more than once been fatal to the inhabitants,
+but they were not slow in discovering that they could not succeed in
+carrying their implements to the summit of the mountains, and that
+they must be satisfied with placing the signals upon the hills.
+
+"An extraordinary phenomena may be witnessed almost every day upon the
+summit of these mountains," said Bouguer in the account he read before
+the Academy of Sciences, "which is probably as old as the world itself,
+but what it appeared was never witnessed by any one before us. We
+first remarked it when we were altogether upon a mountain called Pamba
+Marca. A cloud in which we had been enveloped, and which dispersed,
+allowed us a view of the rising sun, which was very brilliant. The
+cloud passed on, it was scarcely removed thirty paces when each of us
+distinguished his own shadow reflected above him, and saw only his own,
+because the cloud presented a broken surface.
+
+"The short distance allowed us fully to recognize each part of the
+shadow; we distinguished the arms, the legs, the head, but we were
+most amazed at finding that the latter was surrounded by a glory, or
+aureole formed of two or three small concentric crowns of a very
+bright colour, containing the same variety of hues as the rainbow, red
+being the outer one. The spaces between the circles were equal, the
+last circle the weakest, and in the far distance, we perceived one
+large white one, which surrounded the whole. It produced the effect of
+a transfiguration upon the spectator."
+
+The instruments employed by these scholars were not as accurate as
+more modern ones, and varied with changes of temperature, in
+consequence of which, they were forced to proceed most carefully, and
+with most minute accuracy, lest small errors accumulating should end
+by leading to greater ones. Thus, in their trigonometrical surveys
+Bouguer and his associates never calculated the third angle by the
+observation of the two first, but always observed all three.
+
+Having calculated the number of fathoms contained in the extent of
+country surveyed, the next point was to discover what part this was of
+the earth's circumference, which could only be ascertained by means of
+astronomical observations.
+
+After numerous obstacles, which it is impossible to give in detail,
+after curious discoveries, as for example the attraction exercised on
+the pendulum by mountains, the French inquirers arrived at conclusions
+which fully confirmed the result of the expedition to Lapland. They
+did not all return to France at the same time.
+
+Jussieu continued his search after facts in natural history, and La
+Condamine decided to return by way of the Amazon River, making an
+important voyage, to which we shall have occasion to refer later.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+VOYAGES IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+
+Expedition of Wood Rogers--Adventures of Alexander Selkirk--Galapagos
+Island--Puerto Seguro--Return to England--Expedition of George Anson--
+Staten Island--Juan Fernandez--Tinian--Macao--Taking of the vessel--
+Canton river--Results of the Cruise.
+
+
+The war of the Spanish succession was at its height, when some
+privateers of Bristol determined to fit out ships to attack the
+Spanish vessels, in the Pacific Ocean, and to devastate the coasts of
+South America. The two vessels chosen, the _Duke_ and _Duchess_, under
+Captains Rogers and Courtenay, were carefully equipped, and stocked
+with everything necessary for so long a voyage, the famous Dampier,
+who had acquired a great reputation by his daring adventures and
+piracies, did not disdain to accept the title of chief pilot, and
+although this trip was richer in material results than in geographical
+discoveries, the account of it contains a few curious particulars
+worthy of preservation.
+
+The _Duke_ and _Duchess_ set sail from the Royal Port of Bristol on
+the 2nd April, 1708. To begin with, we may note one interesting fact.
+Throughout the voyage a register was at the service of the crew, in
+which all the incidents of the voyage were to be noted, so that the
+slightest errors, and the most insignificant oversights could be
+rectified before the facts of the case faded from memory.
+
+Nothing of note occurred on this voyage till the 22nd December, when
+the Falkland Islands, previously noticed by few navigators, were
+discovered. Rogers did not land on them, but contented himself with
+observing that the coast, although less precipitous, resembled that of
+Portland.
+
+"All the hills," he added, "with their well-wooded and gradually
+sloping sides, appeared fertile, and the shore is not wanting in good
+harbours."
+
+Now these islands do not possess a single tree, and the good harbours,
+as we shall presently see, are anything but numerous, so we can judge
+of the exactitude of the observations made by Rogers. Navigators have
+done well not to trust to them.
+
+After passing this archipelago the two vessels steered due south, and
+penetrated as far as south lat. 60 degrees 58 minutes. Here, there was
+no night, the cold was intense, and the sea so rough that the
+_Duchess_ sustained a few injuries. The chief officers of the two
+vessels assembled in council, agreed that it would be better not to
+attempt to go further south, and the course was changed for the west.
+On the 15th January, 1709, Cape Horn is said to have been doubled, and
+the southern ocean entered.
+
+Up to this date the position of the island of Juan Fernandez, was
+differently given on nearly all maps, and Wood Rogers, who intended to
+harbour there, take in water, and get a little fresh meat, came upon
+it almost unawares.
+
+On the 1st February, he embarked in a little boat to try and find an
+anchorage. Whilst his people were awaiting his return, a large fire
+was noticed on shore. Had some Spanish or French vessels cast anchor
+here? Would it be necessary to fight for the water and food required?
+Every preparation was made during the night, but in the morning no
+ship was in sight. Conjectures were already being hazarded as to
+whether the enemy had retired, when the end was put to all surmises by
+the return of the boat, bringing in it a man clad in goatskins, whose
+personal appearance was yet more savage than his garments.
+
+It was a Scotch mariner, Alexander Selkirk by name, who in consequence
+of a quarrel with the captain of his ship, had been left on this
+desert island four years and a half before. The fire which had
+attracted notice had been lighted by him.
+
+During his stay on the island of Juan Fernandez, Selkirk had seen many
+vessels pass, but only two, both Spanish, had cast anchor. Discovered
+by the sailors, Selkirk had been fired upon, and only escaped death by
+the agility with which he managed to climb into a tree and hide.
+
+He told how he had been put ashore with his clothes, his bed, a pound
+of powder, some bullets, a little tobacco, a hatchet, a knife, a
+kettle, a Bible, with a few other devotional books, his nautical
+instruments and books.
+
+Poor Selkirk provided for his wants as best he could, but during the
+first few months he had great difficulty in conquering the sadness and
+mastering the horror consequent upon his terrible loneliness. He built
+two huts of willow, which he covered with a sort of rush, and lined
+with the skins of the goats he killed to satisfy his hunger, so long
+as his ammunition lasted. When it was likely to fail, he managed to
+strike a light by rubbing two pieces of pimento wood together. When he
+had quite exhausted his ammunition, he caught the goats as they ran,
+his agility had become so great by dint of constant exercise, that he
+scoured the woods, rocks, and hills, with a perfectly incredible speed.
+We had sufficient proof of his skill, when he went hunting with us. He
+outran and exhausted our best hunters, and an excellent dog which we
+had on board; he easily caught the goats, and brought them to us on
+his back. He himself related to us, that one day he chased his prey so
+eagerly to the edge of a precipice, which was concealed by bushes,
+that they rolled over and over together, until they reached the bottom.
+He lost consciousness through that fall, and upon discovering that the
+goat lay under him quite dead, after remaining where he was for
+twenty-four hours, he with the utmost difficulty succeeded in crawling
+to his cabin, which was about a mile distant; and he was unable to
+walk again for six days.
+
+[Illustration: Selkirk falling over the precipice with his prey.]
+
+This deserted wretch managed to season his food with the turnips sown
+by the crew of a ship, with cabbages, capsicums, and all-spice. When
+his clothes and shoes were worn out, a process which occupied but a
+short time, he ingeniously constructed new ones of goatskin, sewing
+them together with a nail, which served him as a needle. When his
+knife was useless, he constructed a new one from the cask-hoops he
+found on the shore. He had so far lost the use of speech, that he
+could only make himself understood by an effort. Rogers took him on
+board, and appointed him boatswain's mate.
+
+Selkirk was not the first sailor abandoned upon the island of Juan
+Fernandez. It may be remembered that Dampier had already rescued an
+unfortunate Mosquito man, who was abandoned from 1681 to 1684. Sharp
+and other buccaneers have related that the sole survivor of a crew of
+a vessel wrecked on this coast, lived there for five years, until he
+was rescued by another ship. Saintine, in his recent novel, "Alone,"
+has detailed Selkirk's adventures.
+
+Upon the 14th of February, the _Duke_ and _Duchess_ left Juan
+Fernandez, and commenced their operations against the Spaniards.
+Rogers seized Guayaquil, for which he obtained a large ransom, and
+captured several vessels, which, however, provided him with more
+prisoners than money.
+
+This part of his voyage concerns us but little, and a few particulars
+only are interesting, as, for instance, his mention of a monkey in the
+Gorgus Island, who was so lazy, that he was nicknamed the Sluggard,
+and of the inhabitants of Tecamez, who repulsed the new-comers with
+poisoned arrows, and guns. He also speaks of the Galapagos Island,
+situated two degrees of northern latitude. According to Rogers, this
+cluster of islands was numerous, but out of them all one only provided
+fresh water. Turtle-doves existed there in great quantities, and
+tortoises, and sea-turtles, of an extraordinary size abounded, thence
+the name given by the Spaniards to this group.
+
+Sea-dogs also were common, one of them had the temerity to attack
+Rogers. "I was walking along the shore," he says, "when it left the
+water, his jaws gaping, as quickly and ferociously as a dog escaping
+from his chain. Three times he attacked me, I plunged my pike into his
+breast, and each time I inflicted such a wound that he fled howling
+horribly. Finally, turning towards me, he stopped to growl and show
+his fangs. Scarcely twenty-four hours earlier, one of my crew had
+narrowly escaped being devoured by a monster of the same family."
+
+[Illustration: "I plunged my pike into his breast."]
+
+In December, Rogers repaired to Puerto Seguro, upon the Californian
+coast, with a Manilla galleon, which he had seized. Many of his men
+penetrated to the interior; he found large forest trees, but not the
+slightest appearance of culture, although smoke indicated the
+existence of inhabitants.
+
+The inhabitants, according to Albey Presort's "History of Voyages,"
+were straight built and powerful, blacker than any Indian tribe
+hitherto met with in the Pacific Ocean Seas. They had long black hair
+plaited, which reached below the waist. All the men went about naked,
+but the women wore a garment, either composed of leaves or of stuff
+made from them, and sometimes the skins of beasts and birds.
+Occasionally they wore necklaces and bracelets made of bits of wood or
+shells. Others adorned their necks with small red berries and pearls.
+Evidently they did not know how to pierce holes in them, for they
+notched them and joined them by a thread. They valued these ornaments
+so highly, that they refused to change them for English necklaces of
+glass. Their chief anxiety was to obtain knives and useful implements.
+
+The _Duke_ and _Duchess_ left Porto Segura on the 12th January, 1710,
+and reached the island of Guaham, of the Mariannes, in the course of
+two months. Here they revictualled, and passing by the Straits of
+Boutan and Saleyer, reached Batavia. After a necessary delay at the
+latter place, and at the Cape of Good Hope, Rogers cast anchor in the
+Downs upon the 1st of October.
+
+In spite of Rogers' reticence with regard to the immense riches he
+brought with him, a good idea of their extent may be gathered from the
+account of ingots, vessels of silver and gold, and pearls, with which
+he delighted the shipowners.
+
+We now come to our account of Admiral Anson's voyage, which almost
+belongs to the category of naval warfare, but with it we may close the
+list of piratical expeditions, which dishonoured the victors without
+ruining the vanquished. And if he brought no new acquisition to
+geography, his account teams with judicious observations, and
+interesting remarks about a country then little known.
+
+The merit of them, however, if we are to believe Nichols' Literary
+anecdotes, rests rather with Benjamin Robins, than, as the title would
+appear to indicate, with the chaplain of the expedition, Richard
+Walter.
+
+George Anson was born in Staffordshire in 1697. A sailor from his
+childhood, he early brought himself into notice.
+
+He was already well known as a clever and fortunate captain, when in
+1739 he was offered the command of a squadron. It consisted of the
+_Centurion_, 60 guns, the _Gloucester_ and _Severe_, each 50 guns, the
+_Pearl_, 40 guns, the _Wager_, 28 guns. To it were attached also the
+sloop _Trial_, and two transports carrying food and ammunition. In
+addition to the crew of 1460, a reinforcement of 470 marines was added
+to the fleet.
+
+Leaving England on the 18th September, 1740, the expedition proceeded
+by way of Madeira, past the island of St. Catharine, along the
+Brazilian coast, by St. Julian Harbour, and finally crossed the Strait
+of Lemaire.
+
+"Terrible," said the narrative, "as the aspect of Tierra del Fuego may
+be, that of Staten Island is more horrible still. It consists of a
+series of inaccessible rocks, crowned with sharp points. Prodigiously
+high, they are covered with eternal snow, and edged with precipices.
+In short, it is impossible to conceive anything more deserted, or more
+wild than this region."
+
+Scarcely had the last vessels of the squadron filed through the strait,
+than a series of heavy gales, squalls, and storms, caused the oldest
+sailors to vow that all they had hitherto known of tempests were
+nothing in comparison.
+
+This fearful experience lasted seven weeks without intermission. It is
+needless to state that the vessels sustained great damage, that many
+men were swept away by the waves, numbers destroyed by illnesses
+occasioned by the exposure to constant damp, and want of sufficient
+nourishment.
+
+Two of the vessels, the _Severe_ and the _Pearl_, were engulfed, and
+four others were lost sight of. Anson was unable to reach Valdivia,
+the rendezvous he had selected in case of separation; carried far to
+the north, he could only arrest his course at Juan Fernandez, which he
+reached upon the 9th of June.
+
+The _Centurion_ had the greatest need of rest. She had lost eighty of
+her crew, her supply of water had failed, and the sailors were so
+weakened by scurvy, that ten only of the remaining number were
+available for the watch. The other vessels, in an equally bad plight,
+were not long in regaining her.
+
+The first care was to restore the exhausted crews, and to repair the
+worst injuries sustained by the vessels. Anson sent the sick on shore
+and installed them in a sheltered hospital in the open air, then
+putting himself at the head of the most enterprising sailors, he
+scoured the entire island, and thoroughly examined its roads and
+shores. The best anchorage, according to his report, was in Cumberland
+Bay. The south-eastern portion of Juan Fernandez, a little island
+scarcely five leagues by two in extent, is dry, rocky, treeless; the
+ground lies low, and is level in comparison with the northern portion.
+It produces water-cresses, purslain, sorrels, turnips, and Sicilian
+radishes in abundance, as well as oats and clover. Anson sowed carrots
+and lettuces, and planted plums, apricots, and peaches. He soon
+discovered that the number of goats, left by the buccaneers, and which
+had multiplied marvellously, had since decreased.
+
+The Spaniards, eager to deprive their enemies of this valuable
+resource, had let loose a quantity of famished dogs upon the island,
+who chased the goats, and devoured so many of them, that, at the time
+of Anson's visit, scarcely two hundred remained. The Commodore, for so
+Anson is always called in the narrative of this voyage, reconnoitered
+the Island of Mas a Fuero, which is only twenty-five leagues west of
+Juan Fernandez. Smaller than the latter, it is more wooded, better
+watered, and possessed more goats.
+
+At the beginning of December, the crews were sufficiently recovered
+for Anson to put into execution his projected attack upon the
+Spaniards. He commenced by seizing several ships laden with precious
+merchandise and ingots, and then set fire to the city of Paita. Upon
+this occasion the Spaniards estimated their loss at one and a half
+million piastres.
+
+Anson then proceeded to Quibo Bay, near Panama, to lie in wait for the
+galleon which, every year, transported the treasures of the Philippine
+Islands to Acapulco. There, although the English met with no
+inhabitants in the miserable huts, they found heaps of shells and
+beautiful mother of pearl left there during the summer months by the
+fishermen of Panama. In mentioning the resources of this place, we
+must not omit the immense turtles, which usually weighed two hundred
+pounds, and which were caught in a singular manner. When a shoal of
+them were seen floating asleep upon the surface of the ocean, a good
+swimmer would plunge in a few fathoms deep, and rising, seize the
+turtle towards the tail, and endeavour to force it down. Upon
+awakening, the creature's struggles to free itself suffice to support
+both the man and his prey, until the arrival of a boat to receive them
+both.
+
+After a fruitless cruise, Anson determined to burn three of the
+Spanish vessels which he had seized and equipped. Distributing the
+crews and cargo upon the _Centurion_ and the _Gloucester_, the only
+two vessels remaining to him, he decided upon the 6th of May, 1742, to
+make for China, where he hoped to find reinforcements and supplies.
+
+But this voyage, which he expected to accomplish in sixty days, took
+him fully four months. After a violent gale, the _Gloucester_, having
+all but foundered, and her crew being too reduced to work her, was
+burnt. Her cargo of silver, and her supplies were trans-shipped to the
+_Centurion_, which alone remained of all that magnificent fleet which
+two years earlier had set sail from England!
+
+Thrown out of his course, far to the north, Anson discovered on the
+26th of August, the Isles of Atanacan and Serigan, and the following
+day those of Saypan, Tinian, and Agnigan, which form a part of the
+Marianne Archipelago.
+
+A Spaniard, a sergeant, whom he captured in a small bark in these seas,
+told him that the island of Tinian was inhabited, and abounded with
+cattle, fowls, and excellent fruits, such as oranges, lemons, limes,
+bread fruit, &c. Nowhere could the _Centurion_ have found a more
+welcome port for her exhausted crew, now numbering only seventy-one
+men, worn out by privation and illness, the only survivors of the 2000
+sailors who had manned the fleet at its departure.
+
+"The soil of this island," says the narrative, "is dry and somewhat
+sandy, which makes the verdure of the meadows and woods more delicate
+and more uniform than is usually the case in tropical climates.
+
+"The ground rises gently from the English encampment to the centre of
+the isle, but before its greatest height is reached, one meets with
+sloping glade, covered with fine clover, and many brilliant flowers,
+and bordered by beautiful fruit-trees.
+
+"The animals, who, for the greater part of the year, are the only
+lords of this beautiful retreat, add to its romantic charm, and
+contribute not a little to its marvellous appearance. Thousands of
+cattle may be seen grazing together in a vast meadow, and the sight is
+the more singular as the animals are all of a milk white colour, with
+the exception of their ears, which are generally black. Although it is
+a desert-island, the sight and sound of such a number of domestic
+animals, rushing in crowds through the woods, suggest the idea of
+farmhouses and villages."
+
+Truly an enchanting description! But has not the author rather drawn
+upon his imagination for the charming details of his description?
+
+After so long a voyage, after so many storms, it is little to be
+wondered at, if the verdant woods, the exuberant vegetation, and the
+abundance of animal life, profoundly impressed the minds of Anson's
+companions. Well! we shall soon learn whether his successors at Tinian
+found it as wonderful as he did.
+
+Meanwhile Anson was not altogether free from anxiety. It was true that
+his ships were repaired, but many of his men remained on land to
+recover their strength, and but a small number of able-bodied seamen
+remained on board with him. The roadstead being lined with coral,
+great precautions were necessary to save the cables from being cut,
+but in spite of them, at new moon, a sudden tempest arose and broke
+the ship loose. The anchors held well, but the hawsers gave way, and
+the _Centurion_ was carried out to sea. The thunder growled
+ceaselessly, and the rain fell with such violence, that the signals of
+distress which were given by the crew were not even heard. Anson, most
+of his officers, and a large part of the crew, numbering one hundred
+and thirteen persons, remained on land and found themselves deprived
+of the only means they possessed of leaving Tinian. Their despair was
+great, their consternation inexpressible. But Anson, with his energy
+and endless resources, soon roused his companions from their despair!
+One vessel, that which they had captured from the Spaniards, still
+remained to them, and it occurred to them to lengthen it, until it
+could contain them all with the necessary provisions for a voyage to
+China. However, after nineteen days, the _Centurion_ returned, and the
+English, embarking in her upon the 21st of October, were not long in
+reaching Macao, putting into a friendly and civilized port for the
+first time since their departure from England, two years before.
+
+"Macao," says Anson, "formerly rich, well populated, and capable of
+self-defence against the Chinese Government, is greatly shorn of its
+ancient splendour! Although still inhabited by the Portuguese and
+ruled by a Governor, nominated by the King of Portugal, it is at the
+mercy of the Chinese, who can starve the inhabitants, or take
+possession of it, for which reasons the Portuguese Governor is very
+careful not to offend them."
+
+Anson was forced to write an imperious letter to the Chinese Governor,
+before he could obtain permission to buy, even at high prices, the
+provisions and stores he required. He then publicly announced his
+intention of leaving for Batavia and set sail on the 19th of April,
+1743. But, instead of steering for the Dutch possession, he directed
+his course towards the Philippine Islands, where, for several days, he
+awaited the arrival of the galleon returning from Acapulco, laden with
+the proceeds of the sale of her rich cargo. These vessels usually
+carried forty-four guns, and were manned by a crew of over 500 men.
+Anson had only 200 sailors, of whom thirty were but lads, but this
+disproportion did not deter him, for he had the expectation of rich
+booty, and the cupidity of his men was sufficient guarantee of their
+courage.
+
+"Why," asked Anson one day of his steward, "why do you no longer give
+us mutton for dinner? Have we eaten all the sheep we bought in China?"
+
+"Pray excuse me, Commodore," replied the steward, "but I am reserving
+the only two which remain for the Captain of the galleon."
+
+No one, not even the steward, doubted of success! Anson well
+understood how to secure it, and the efficiency of his men compensated
+for their reduced numbers. The struggle was hot, the straw mats which
+filled the rigging of the galleon took fire and the flames rose as
+high as the mizen mast. The Spaniards found the double enemies too
+much! After a sharp contest of two hours, during which sixty-seven of
+their men were killed and eighty-four wounded, they surrendered.
+
+[Illustration: Fight between the _Centurion_ and a Spanish galleon.
+(Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+It was a rich prize, 1,313,842 "pieces of eight,"[1] and 35,682 ounces
+of ingot silver, with other merchandise of little value in comparison
+with the money. This booty, added to others, amounted to nearly
+400,000_l_, without taking into account the vessels, goods, &c., of
+the Spaniards which the English squadron had burnt or destroyed, and
+which could not be reckoned at less than 600,000_l_.
+
+[Footnote 1: A Spanish coin, so called, because it represents the
+eighth of a doubloon, it is worth about nine shillings English money.]
+
+Anson convoyed his prize to the Canton River, where he sold it much
+below its value, for 6000 piastres. He left on the 10th of December,
+and reached Spithead on the 15th of June, 1744, after an absence of
+three years and nine months. He made a triumphal entry into London.
+The half-million of money, which was the result of his numerous prizes,
+was conveyed through the city in thirty-two chariots, to the sound of
+trumpets and beating of drums and amidst the shouts of the people.
+
+The money was divided between himself, his officers, and men; the king
+himself could not claim a share.
+
+Anson was created rear-admiral shortly after his return, and received
+important commands.
+
+In 1747, he captured the Marquis of La Jonquiere Taffanel, after an
+heroic struggle. For this exploit, he was made First Lord of the
+Admiralty and Admiral.
+
+In 1758, he covered the attempted descent of the English near St. Malo,
+and died in London a short time after his return.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+CAPTAIN COOK'S PREDECESSORS.
+
+
+I.
+
+Roggewein--The little that is known of him--The uncertainty of his
+discoveries--Easter Island--The Pernicious Islands--The Baumans--New
+Britain--Arrival in Batavia--Byron--Stay at Rio Janeiro and Port
+Desire--Entrance into Straits of Magellan--Falkland Islands and Port
+Egmont--The Fuegians--Mas a Fuero--Disappointment Islands--Danger
+Islands--Tinian--Return to Europe.
+
+
+As early as 1669, Roggewein the elder had petitioned the Dutch West
+India Company for three armed vessels, in order to prosecute his
+discoveries in the Pacific Ocean. His project was favourably received,
+but a coolness in the relations between Spain and Holland forced the
+Batavian government to relinquish the expedition for a time. Upon his
+death-bed Roggewein forced from his son Jacob a promise to carry the
+plan he had conceived into execution.
+
+Circumstances, over which he had no control, for a long time hindered
+the fulfilment of his promise. It was only after several voyages in
+the Indian seas, after having even been judge in the Batavian Justice
+Court, that at length Jacob Roggewein was in a position to take the
+necessary steps with the West India Company. We have no means of
+finding out Roggewein's age in 1721, or of ascertaining what were his
+claims to the command of an expedition of discovery. Most biographical
+dictionaries honour him with but a slight mention, perhaps of a couple
+of lines, and Fleurieu, in his learned and exhaustive account of the
+Dutch navigator, was unable to find out anything certain about him.
+
+Moreover, the narrative of the voyage was written not by Roggewein,
+but by a German named Behrens. We may, therefore, with some justice,
+attribute the obscurities and contradictions of the particulars given,
+and their general want of accuracy, rather to the narrator than to the
+navigator. It even appears sometimes (and this is far from improbable),
+that Roggewein was ignorant of the voyages and discoveries of his
+predecessors and contemporaries.
+
+Upon the 21st of August, 1721, three vessels set sail from Texel,
+under his command. They were, the _Eagle_ of 36 guns, and with a crew
+of 111 men, the _Tienhoven_ of 28 guns and 100 men, Captain James
+Bauman, and the galley _African_ of 14 guns and a crew of 60 men,
+Captain Henry Rosenthal. Their voyage across the Atlantic afforded no
+particulars of interest. Touching at Rio, Roggewein went in search of
+an island which he named Auke's Magdeland, and which would appear to
+be the same as the Land of the Virgin, Hawkins' Virginia, and the
+Archipelago of the Falkland, or Malouine Islands, unless indeed it was
+Southern Georgia. Although these islands were then well known, it
+would appear that the Dutch knew little of their whereabouts, as after
+vainly seeking the Falkland Isles, they set to work to look for the
+island St. Louis, belonging to the French, apparently quite unaware
+that they belonged to the same group.
+
+There are few lands indeed which have borne so many different names as
+Pepys Isles, Conti Isles, and many which we need not mention. It would
+be easy to count up a dozen.
+
+After discovering, or rather noticing an island below the parallel of
+the Straits of Magellan, about twenty-four leagues from the American
+continent, of two hundred leagues in circumference, which he named
+South Belgium, Roggewein passed through the Straits of Lemaire, or
+possibly was carried by the current to 62-1/2 degrees of southern
+latitude. Finally, he regained the coast of Chili; and cast anchor
+opposite the island of Mocha, which he found deserted. He afterwards
+reached Juan Fernandez, where he met with the _Tienhoven_, from which
+he had been separated since the 21st of December.
+
+The vessels left this harbour before the end of March, and steered to
+the west-north-west, in search of the land discovered by Davis,
+between 27 degrees and 28 degrees south.
+
+After a search of several days, Roggewein sighted an island upon the
+6th of April, 1722, which he named Easter Island.
+
+We will not stop to enumerate the exaggerated dimensions claimed for
+this island by the Dutch navigator, nor to notice his observations of
+the manners and customs of the inhabitants. We shall have occasion to
+refer to them in dealing with the more detailed and reliable accounts
+of Cook and La Perouse. "But," said Fleurieu, "we shall vainly look in
+this narrative for any sign of learning on the part of Roggewein's
+sergeant-major." After describing the Banana, of which the leaves are
+six or eight feet high, and two or three wide, he adds that this was
+the leaf with which our first parents covered their nakedness after
+the Fall; and to make it clearer, further remarks that those who
+accept this view, do so on account of this leaf being the largest of
+all the plants growing either in eastern or western countries, thereby
+plainly indicating his notion of the proportions of Adam and Eve.
+
+A native came on board the _Eagle_. He delighted every one by his good
+humour, gaiety, and friendly demonstrations.
+
+In the morning Roggewein distinguished an eager multitude upon the
+shore, which was adorned with high statues, who awaited the arrival of
+the strangers with impatient curiosity. For no discoverable purpose a
+gun was fired, one of the natives was killed, and the multitude fled
+in every direction,--soon, however, to return in greater haste.
+Roggewein, at the head of 150 men, fired a volley, stretching a number
+of victims on the ground. Overcome with terror, the natives hastened
+to appease their terrible visitors by offering them all they possessed.
+
+Fleurieu is of opinion that Easter Island and Davis Land are not
+identical; but in spite of the reasons with which he supports his
+opinions, and the differences which he points out in the situation and
+description of the two islands, it is impossible to avoid the
+conclusion that Roggewein and Davis's discoveries are one and the same.
+No other island answering to the description is to be found in these
+latitudes, which are now thoroughly well known.
+
+A violent storm of wind drove Roggewein from his anchorage on the
+eastern side of the island, and obliged him to make for the
+west-north-west. He traversed the sea called Mauvaise by Schouten, and
+having sailed eight hundred leagues from Easter Island, fell in with
+what he took to be the Isle of Dogs, so called by Schouten. Roggewein
+named it Carlshoff, a name which it still retains.
+
+The squadron passed this island in the night, without touching at it,
+and was forced in the following night, by the wind and adverse
+currents, to the midst of a group of low islands, which were quite
+unexpectedly encountered. The _African_ was dashed against a coral
+rock, and the two consorts narrowly escaped the same fate. Only after
+five days of unceasing effort, of danger and anxiety, the crew
+succeeded in extricating the vessels and in regaining the open sea.
+
+The natives of this group were tall, with long and flowing hair. They
+painted their bodies in various colours. It is generally agreed now to
+recognize in Roggewein's description of the Pernicious Islands, the
+group to which Cook gave the name of Palliser Isles.
+
+On the morning succeeding the day in which he had so narrowly escaped
+the dangers of the Pernicious Islands, Roggewein discovered an island
+to which he gave the name of Aurora. Lying low, it was scarcely
+visible above the water, and had the sun not shone out, the
+_Tienhoven_ would have been lost upon it.
+
+As night approached, new land was perceived, to which the name of
+Vesper was given, and it is difficult to decide whether or no it
+belonged to the Palliser group.
+
+Roggewein continued to sail between the 15th and 16th degrees, and was
+not long in finding himself "all of a sudden" in the midst of islands
+which were half submerged.
+
+"As we approached them," says Behrens, "we saw an immense number of
+canoes navigating the coasts, and we concluded that the islands were
+well populated. Upon nearing the land we discovered that it consisted
+of a mass of different islands, situated close the one to the other,
+and we were insensibly drawn in amongst them. We began to fear that we
+should be unable to extricate ourselves. The admiral sent one of the
+pilots up to the look-out to ascertain how we could get free of them.
+
+"We owed our safety to the calm that prevailed. The slightest movement
+of the water would have run our ships upon the rocks, without the
+possibility of assistance reaching us. As it was, we got away without
+any accident worth mentioning. These islands are six in number, all
+very pleasant, and taken together may extend some thirty leagues. They
+are situated twenty-five leagues westward of the Pernicious Islands.
+We named them the Labyrinth, because we could only leave them by a
+circuitous route."
+
+Many authors identify this group with Byron's Prince of Wales Islands.
+Fleurieu holds a different opinion. Dumont d'Urville thinks them
+identical with the group of Vliegen, already seen by Schouten and
+Lemaire.
+
+After navigating for three days in a westerly direction, the Dutch
+caught sight of a beautiful island. Cocoa-nuts, palm-trees, and
+luxuriant verdure testified to its fertility. But finding it
+impossible to anchor there, the officers and crews were obliged to
+visit it in well-armed detachments.
+
+Once more the Dutch needlessly shed the blood of an inoffensive
+population which had awaited them upon the shore, and whose only fault
+consisted in their numbers.
+
+After this execution, worthy rather of barbarians than of civilized
+men, they endeavoured to persuade the natives to return, by offering
+presents to the chiefs, and by deceitful protestations of friendship.
+But they were not to be deceived by the latter, and having enticed the
+sailors into the interior, the inhabitants rushed upon them and
+attacked them with stones. Although a volley of bullets stretched a
+number upon the ground, they still bravely persisted in attacking the
+strangers, and forced them to re-embark, carrying with them their dead
+and wounded.
+
+Of course the Dutch cried treason, not knowing how to find epithets
+strong enough for the treachery and disloyalty of their adversaries.
+But, who struck the first blow? Who was the aggressor? Even admitting
+that a few thefts were committed, which is probable enough, was it
+necessary to visit them with so severe a punishment, to revenge upon
+an entire population the wrong-doing of a few individuals, who after
+all can have had no very strict notions of honesty?
+
+In spite of their losses, the Dutch called this island, in memory of
+the refreshment they had enjoyed there, Recreation Island. Roggewein
+gives its situation as below the sixth parallel, but his longitude is
+so incorrect, that it is impossible to depend upon it.
+
+The question now arises, whether the captain should prosecute his
+search for the Island Espirito Santo de Quiros in the west, or whether,
+on the contrary, he should sail northward and reach the East Indies
+during the favourable season?
+
+The counsel of war, which Roggewein called to the consideration of
+this question, chose the latter alternative.
+
+[Illustration: "The counsel chose the latter alternative."]
+
+The third day after this decision, three islands were simultaneously
+discovered. They received the name of Bauman, after the captain of the
+_Tienhoven_, who was the first to catch sight of them. The natives
+came round the vessels to traffic, whilst an immense crowd of the
+inhabitants lined the shore, armed with bows and spears. They were
+white skinned, and only differed from Europeans in appearance, when
+very much tanned by the sun. Their bodies were not painted. A strip of
+stuff, artistically arranged and fringed, covered them from the waist
+to the heels. Hats of the same material protected their heads and
+necklaces of sweet-smelling flowers, adorned their necks.
+
+"It must be confessed," says Behrens, "that this is the most civilized
+nation, as well as the most honest, which we have met with in the
+southern seas. Charmed with our arrival, they received us like gods,
+and when we showed our intention of leaving, they testified most
+lively regrets."
+
+From the description, these would appear to have been the inhabitants
+of the Navigators Islands.
+
+After having encountered the islands which Roggewein believed to be
+Cocoa and Traitor Islands, already visited by Schouten and Lemaire,
+and which Fleurieu, imagining them to be a Dutch discovery, named
+Roggewein Islands; after having caught sight of Tienhoven and
+Groningue Islands, which were believed by Pingre to be identical with
+Santa Cruz of Mendana, the expedition finally reached the coast of New
+Ireland. Here the discoverers perpetrated new massacres. From thence
+they went to the shores of New Guinea, and after crossing the Moluccas,
+cast anchor at Batavia.
+
+There their fellow-countrymen, less humane than many of the tribes
+they had visited, confiscated the two vessels, imprisoned the officers
+and sailors indiscriminately, and sent them to Europe to take their
+trial. They had committed the unpardonable crime of having entered
+countries belonging to the East India Company, whilst they themselves
+were in the employ of the West India Company.
+
+The result was a trial, and the East India Company was compelled to
+restore all that it had appropriated, and to pay heavy damages.
+
+We lose all sight of Roggewein after his arrival at Texel upon the
+11th July, 1723, and no details are to be obtained of the last years
+of his life. Grateful thanks are due to Fleurieu for having unravelled
+this "chaotic" narrative, and for having thrown some light upon an
+expedition which deserves to be better known.
+
+Upon the 17th of June, 1764, Commodore Byron received instructions
+signed by the Lord of the Admiralty. They were to the following
+effect,--"As nothing contributes more to the glory of this nation, in
+its character of a maritime power, to the dignity of the British crown,
+and to the progress of its national commerce and navigation, than the
+discovery of new regions; and as there is every reason for believing
+in the existence of lands and islands in great numbers, between the
+Cape of Good Hope and the Straits of Magellan, which have been
+hitherto unknown to the European powers, and which are situated in
+latitudes suitable for navigation, and in climates productive of
+different marketable commodities; and as moreover, his Majesty's
+islands, called Pepys and Falkland Islands, situated as will be
+described, have not been sufficiently examined for a just appreciation
+of their shores and productions, although they were discovered by
+English navigators; his Majesty, taking all these considerations into
+account, and conceiving the existing state of profound peace now
+enjoyed by his subjects especially suitable for such an undertaking,
+has decided to put it into execution."
+
+Upon what seaman would the choice of the English Government fall?
+
+Commodore John Byron, born on the 8th of November, 1723, was the man
+selected. From his earliest years, he had shown an enthusiastic love
+of seafaring life, and at the age of seventeen had offered his
+services upon one of the vessels that formed Admiral Anson's squadron,
+when it was sent out for the destruction of Spanish settlements upon
+the Pacific coast.
+
+We have already given an account of the troubles which befell this
+expedition before the incredible fortune which was to distinguish its
+last voyage.
+
+The vessel upon which Byron embarked was the _Wager_. It was wrecked
+in passing through the Straits of Magellan, and the crew being taken
+prisoners by the Spaniards, were sent to Chili. After a captivity
+which lasted at least three years, Byron effected his escape, and was
+rescued by a vessel from St. Malo, which took him to Europe. He
+returned at once to service, and distinguished himself in various
+encounters during the war with France. Doubtless it was the
+recollection of his first voyage round the world, so disastrously
+interrupted, which procured for him the distinction conferred upon him
+by the Admiralty.
+
+The vessels entrusted to him were carefully armed. The _Dauphin_ was a
+sixth-rate man-of-war, and carried 24 guns, 150 sailors, 3 lieutenants,
+and 37 petty officers. The _Tamar_ was a sloop of 16 guns, and 90
+sailors, 3 lieutenants, 27 petty officers, commanded by Captain Mouat.
+
+The start was not fortunate. The expedition left the Downs upon the
+21st of June, but the _Dauphin_ grounded before leaving the Thames,
+and was obliged to put into Plymouth for repairs.
+
+Upon the 3rd of July, anchor was finally weighed, and ten days later,
+Byron put in at Funchal in the Island of Madeira for refreshments. He
+was forced to halt again at Cape Verd Islands, to take in water, that
+with which he was supplied having become rapidly wasted.
+
+Nothing further occurred to interrupt the voyage, until the two
+English vessels sighted Cape Frio.
+
+Byron remarked a singular fact, since fully verified, that the copper
+sheathing of his vessels appeared to disperse the fish, which he
+expected to meet with in large quantities.
+
+The tropical heat, and constant rains, had struck down a large
+proportion of the crew, hence the urgent need of rest and of fresh
+victuals which they experienced.
+
+These they hoped to find at Rio de Janeiro, where they arrived on the
+12th December. Byron was warmly welcomed by the viceroy, and thus
+describes his first interview.
+
+"When I made my visit, I was received in the greatest state, about
+sixty officers were drawn up by the palace. The guard was under arms.
+They were fine, well-drilled men. His Excellency accompanied by the
+nobility received me on the staircase. Fifteen salutes from the
+neighbouring fort honoured my arrival. We then entered the
+audience-chamber, and after a conversation of a quarter of an hour, I
+took my leave, and was conducted back with the same ceremonies."
+
+We shall see a little later how slightly the reception given to
+Captain Cook some years afterwards resembled that just related.
+
+The Commodore obtained ready permission to disembark his sick, and
+found every facility for revictualling. His sole cause of complaint
+was the repeated endeavour of the Portuguese to tempt his sailors to
+desert.
+
+The insupportable heat experienced by the crew shortened their stay at
+Rio. Upon the 16th of October, anchor was weighed, but it was five
+days before a land breeze allowed the vessels to gain the open sea.
+
+Up to this moment, the destination of the expedition had been kept
+secret. Byron now summoned the captain of the _Tamar_ on board, and in
+the presence of the assembled sailors, read his instructions.
+
+These enjoined him not to proceed to the East Indies, as had been
+supposed, but to prosecute discoveries, which might prove of great
+importance to England in the southern seas. With this object the Lords
+of the Admiralty promised double pay to the crew, with future
+advancement and enjoyments, if they were pleased with their services.
+The second part of this short harangue was the most acceptable to the
+sailors and was received by them with joyous demonstrations.
+
+Until the 29th of October no incident occurred in their passage. Upon
+that date sudden and violent squalls succeeded each other and
+culminated in a fearful tempest, the violence of which was so great
+that the Commodore ordered four guns to be thrown overboard, to avoid
+foundering. In the morning the weather moderated somewhat, but it was
+as cold as in England at the same time of year, although in this
+quarter of the globe the month of November answers to the month of May.
+As the wind continued to drive the vessel eastward, Byron began to
+think that he should experience great difficulty in avoiding the east
+of Patagonia.
+
+Suddenly, upon the 12th of November, although no land was marked on
+the chart in this position, a repeated cry of "Land! land ahead!"
+arose. Clouds at this moment obscured almost the entire horizon, and
+it thundered and lightened without intermission.
+
+"It seemed to me," says Byron, "that what had at first appeared to be
+an island, was really two steep mountains, but, upon looking windward,
+it was apparent that the land which belonged to these mountains
+stretched far to the south-east." Consequently, he steered south-west.
+"I sent some officers to the masthead to watch the wind, and to verify
+the discovery. They unanimously asserted that they saw a great extent
+of country. We then went E.S.E. The land appeared to present entirely
+the same appearance. The mountains looked blue, as is often the case
+in dark and rainy weather, when one is near them. Shortly afterwards,
+several of our number fancied they could distinguish waves breaking
+upon a sandy shore, but after steering with the utmost caution for an
+hour, that which we had taken for land disappeared suddenly, and we
+were convinced to our amazement that it had been only a land of fog! I
+have passed all my life at sea," continues Byron, "since I was
+twenty-seven, but I never could have conceived so complete and
+sustained an illusion.
+
+"There is no doubt, that had the weather not cleared so suddenly as it
+did, we should one and all on board have declared that we had
+discovered land in this latitude. We were then in latitude 43 degrees
+46 minutes S. and longitude 60 degrees 5 minutes W."
+
+The next morning a terrible gale of wind arose, heralded by the
+piercing cries of many hundred birds flying before it. It lasted only
+twenty minutes--sufficiently long, however, to throw the vessel on its
+beam end before it was possible to let go the halliards. At the same
+moment a blow from the sheet of the mainsail overthrew the first
+lieutenant, and sent him rolling to a distance, while the mizen-mast,
+which was not entirely lowered, was torn to pieces.
+
+The following days were not much more favourable. Moreover, the ship
+had sunk so little, that she drifted away as the wind freshened. After
+such a troublesome voyage, we may guess how gladly Byron reached
+Penguin Island and Port Desire on the 24th of November. But the
+delights of this station did not by any means equal the anticipations
+of the crew.
+
+The English sailors landed and upon advancing into the interior, met
+only with a desert country, and sandy hills, without a single tree.
+They found no game, but they saw a few guanacos too far off for a
+shot; they were, however, able to catch some large hares, which were
+not difficult to secure. The seals and sea birds, however, furnished
+food for an entire fleet.
+
+Badly situated and badly sheltered, Port Desire offered the further
+inconvenience that only brackish water could be procured there. Not a
+trace of inhabitants was to be found! A long stay in this place being
+useless and dangerous, Byron started in search of Pepys Island on the
+25th.
+
+The position of this island was most uncertain. Halley placed it 80
+degrees east of the continent. Cowley, the only person who asserted
+that he had seen it, declared it was about 47 degrees latitude, S.,
+but did not fix its longitude. Here then was an interesting problem to
+solve.
+
+After having explored to the N., to the S., and to the E., Byron,
+satisfied that this island was imaginary, set sail for the Sebaldines,
+in haste to reach the first possible port where he could obtain food
+and water, of which he had pressing need. A storm overtook him, during
+which the waves were so terrific, that Byron declared he had never
+seen them equalled, even when he doubled Cape Horn with Admiral Anson.
+This danger surmounted, he recognized Cape Virgin, which forms the
+northern entrance to the Straits of Magellan.
+
+As soon as the vessels neared the shore, the sailors distinguished a
+crowd of men on horseback, who set up a white tent, and signed to them
+to land. Curious to see these Patagonians, about whom preceding
+navigators had so disagreed, Byron landed with a strong detachment of
+armed soldiers.
+
+He found nearly 500 men, most of them on horseback, of gigantic
+stature, and looking like monsters in human shape. Their bodies were
+painted in the most hideous manner, their faces traced with various
+coloured lines, their eyes encircled with blue, black, or red, so that
+they had the appearance of wearing enormous spectacles. Almost all
+were naked, with the exception of a skin thrown over their
+shoulders--the wool inside, and a few of them wore boots. Truly, a
+singular costume! primitive and not expensive!
+
+[Illustration: "Most of them on horseback."]
+
+With them were numbers of dogs and of very small horses, excessively
+ugly, but not the less extremely swift.
+
+The women rode on horseback like the men without stirrups, and all
+galloped on the shore, although it was covered with immense stones and
+very slippery.
+
+The interview was friendly. Byron distributed numbers of toys, ribbons,
+glass trinkets, and tobacco, to the crowd of giants.
+
+As soon as he had brought the _Dauphin_ to the wind, Byron entered the
+Straits of Magellan with the tide. It was not his intention to cross
+it, but merely to find a safe and commodious harbour, where he might
+secure wood and water before starting in his search for the Falkland
+Islands.
+
+On leaving the second outlet, he met with St. Elizabeth, St.
+Bartholomew, and St. George Islands, and Sandy Point. Near the last he
+found a delicious country, springs, woods, fields covered with flowers,
+which shed an exquisite perfume in the air. The country was swarming
+with hundreds of birds, of which one species received the name of the
+"Painted Goose," from the exceeding brilliancy of its plumage. But
+nowhere could a spot be found where the ship's boat could approach
+without extreme danger. The water was shallow everywhere, and the
+breakers were heavy. Fish of many kinds--more especially
+mullets,--geese, snipe, teal, and other birds of excellent flavour,
+were caught and killed by the crew.
+
+Byron was obliged to continue his voyage to Port Famine, which he
+reached on the 27th of December.
+
+"We were sheltered from all winds," he says, "with the exception of
+the south-east, which rarely blows, and no damage could accrue to
+vessels which might be driven on shore in the bay, because of the
+profound calm that prevails. Wood enough floated near the shore to
+stock a thousand vessels, so we had no need to go and cut it in the
+forest.
+
+"The River Sedger ran at the bottom of the bay, the water of which is
+excellent. Its banks are planted with large and beautiful trees,
+excellent for masts; parrots, and birds of brilliant plumage thronged
+the branches." Abundance reigned in Famine Port during Byron's stay.
+
+As soon as his crew were completely recovered from their fatigue and
+the ships well provisioned, the Commodore, on the 5th of January, 1765,
+resumed his search for the Falkland Islands. Seven days later, he
+discovered a land in which he fancied he recognized the Islands of
+Sebald de Wert, but upon nearing them he found that what he had taken
+for three islands, was, in reality, but one, which extended far south.
+He had no remaining doubt that he had found the group marked upon the
+charts of the time as New Ireland, 51 degrees south latitude, and 63
+degrees, 32 minutes west longitude.
+
+First of all, Byron steered clear of them, fearing to be thrown upon a
+coast with which he was unacquainted, and after this summary bearing,
+a detachment was selected to skirt the coast as closely as possible,
+and look for a safe and commodious harbour--which was soon met with.
+It received the name of Port Egmont, in honour of Earl Egmont, First
+Lord of the Admiralty.
+
+"I did not expect," says Byron, "that it would be possible to find so
+good a harbour. The depth was excellent, the supply of water easy; all
+the ships of England might be anchored there in shelter from winds.
+
+"Geese, ducks, and teal abounded to such an extent, that the sailors
+were tired of eating them. Want of wood was general, with the
+exception of some trunks of trees which floated by the shore, and
+which were apparently brought here from the Strait of Magellan.
+
+"The wild sorel and celery, both excellent anti-scorbutics, were to be
+found in abundance. Sea-calves and seals, as well as penguins, were so
+numerous that it was impossible to walk upon the strand without seeing
+them rush away in herds. Animals resembling wolves, but more like
+foxes in shape, with the exception of their height and tails, several
+times attacked the sailors, who had great difficulty in defending
+themselves. It would be no easy task to guess how they came here,
+distant as the country is from any other continent,--by at least a
+hundred leagues; or to imagine where they found shelter, in a country
+barren of vegetation, producing only rushes, sword-grass, and not a
+single tree."
+
+The account of this portion of Byron's voyage, in Didot's biography,
+is a tissue of errors.
+
+"The flotilla," says M. Alfred de Lacaze, "became entangled in the
+Straits of Magellan, and was forced to put into a bay near Port Famine,
+which was named Port Egmont." A singular mistake, which proves how
+lightly the articles of this important collection were sometimes
+written.
+
+Byron took possession of Port Egmont and the adjacent isles, called
+Falkland, in the name of the King of England. Cowley had named them
+Pepys Islands, but in all probability the first discoverer was Captain
+Davis in 1592. Two years later Sir Richard Hawkins found land which
+was thought to be the same, and named it Virginia, in honour of his
+queen Elizabeth. Lastly, vessels from St. Malo visited this group, and
+no doubt it was owing to this fact that Frezier called them the
+Malouines Islands.
+
+[Illustration: Map of the Eastern Hemisphere. _Engraved by E. Morieu
+23, r. de Brea Paris._]
+
+[Illustration: Straits of Magellan, after Bougainville. _Grave par E.
+Morieu._]
+
+After having named a number of rocks, islets, and capes, Byron left
+Port Egmont on the 27th of January, and set sail for Port Desire,
+which he reached nine days later. There he found the _Florida_--a
+transport vessel, which had brought from England the provisions and
+necessary appliances for his long voyage.
+
+But this anchorage was too dangerous. The _Florida_ and the _Tamar_
+were in too bad a condition to be equal to the long operation of
+transhipment. Byron therefore sent one of his petty officers, who had
+a thorough knowledge of the Strait of Magellan, on board the _Florida_,
+and with his two consorts set sail for Port Famine. He met with a
+French ship so many times in the straits, that it appeared as if she
+were bent upon the same course as himself. Upon returning to England,
+he ascertained that she was the _Aigle_, Captain M. de Bougainville,
+who was coasting Patagonia in search of the wood needed by the French
+colony in the Falkland Islands.
+
+During the various excursions in the straits, the English expedition
+received several visits from the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego.
+
+"I have never seen such wretched beings," says Byron; "they were
+entirely naked, with the exception of a skin thrown across the
+shoulders. They offered me the bows and arrows with which they were
+armed in exchange for beads, necklaces, and other trifles. Their
+arrows, which were two feet long, were made of cane, and pointed with
+greenish stone; the bows were three feet long and were furnished with
+catgut for strings.
+
+"Their nourishment consisted of certain fruits, mussels, and the
+remains of putrid fish thrown upon the beach during the storms. Pigs
+only could have relished their food. It consisted of large pieces of
+whale, already putrified, the odour of which impregnated the air for
+some distance. One of them tore the carrion in pieces with his teeth,
+and handed the bits to his companions, who devoured them with the
+voracity of wild beasts.
+
+"Several of these miserable beings decided to come on board. Wishing
+to give them a pleasant reception, one of my petty officers played the
+violin and the sailors danced. This delighted them. Anxious to show
+their appreciation, one of their number hastened to his pirogue (small
+boat) and returned with a little bag of wolf-skin, containing a red
+ointment, with which he rubbed the face of the violinist. He was
+anxious to pay me the same attention, but I drew back. He then tried
+every means of overcoming my delicacy, and I had great difficulty in
+avoiding the mark of esteem he was so anxious to give me."
+
+[Illustration: "One of them tore the carrion with his teeth."]
+
+It will not be out of place here to record the opinion held by Byron,
+an experienced seaman, upon the advantages and disadvantages offered
+to the passage through the Straits of Magellan. He does not agree with
+the majority of navigators who have visited these latitudes. He
+says,--
+
+"Our account of the difficulties and dangers we encountered may lead
+to the idea that it is not prudent to attempt this passage, and that
+ships leaving Europe for the southern seas, should prefer to double
+Cape Horn. I am by no means of this opinion, although I have twice
+doubled Cape Horn. There is one season in the year when not only one
+ship, but an entire fleet, might safely cross the straits, and to
+profit by this season one should enter them in the month of December.
+One inestimable advantage which should weigh with all navigators is
+that celery, scurvy-grass, fruits, and other anti-scorbutic vegetables
+abound. Such obstacles as we encountered, and which delayed us from
+the 17th of February till the 8th of April in the straits, were mainly
+due to the equinoctial season, a season which is invariably stormy,
+and which, more than once, tried our patience."
+
+Until the 26th of April, the day upon which they found Mas-a-Fuero,
+belonging to the Juan Fernandez group, Byron had sailed to the N.W. He
+hastened to disembark several sailors, who after obtaining water and
+wood, chased wild goats, which they found better flavoured than
+venison in England.
+
+During their stay in this port, a singular fact occurred. A violent
+surf broke over the shore, and prevented the shore-boats from reaching
+the strand. Although he was provided with a life-belt, one of the
+sailors, who could not swim, refused to jump into the sea to reach the
+boat. Threatened with being left alone on the island, he still
+persistently refused to venture, when one of his companions cleverly
+encircled his waist with a cord, in which he had made a running knot,
+and one end of which was made fast to the boat. When he reached the
+vessel, Hawksworth's narrative relates, that the unfortunate fellow
+had swallowed so much water that he appeared lifeless. He was
+accordingly hung up by the heels, whereupon he soon regained his
+senses, and the next day was completely restored. But in spite of this
+truly wonderful recovery, we can hardly venture to recommend this
+course of treatment to humane rescue societies.
+
+Leaving Mas-a-Fuero, Byron changed his route, with the intention of
+seeking Davis Land, now known as Easter Island, which was placed by
+geographers in 27 degrees 30 minutes, a hundred leagues westward of
+the American coast. Eight days were devoted to this search.
+
+Having found nothing after this cruise, which he was unable to prolong,
+Byron, following his intention of visiting the Solomon group, steered
+for the north-west. Upon the 22nd of May scurvy broke out on board the
+vessels, and quickly made alarming havoc.
+
+Fortunately land was perceived from the look-out on the 7th of June in
+140 degrees 58 minutes west longitude.
+
+Next day, the fleet neared two islands, which presented an attractive
+appearance.
+
+Large bushy trees, shrubs and groves were seen, and a number of
+natives who hastened to the shore and lighted fires.
+
+Byron sent a boat in search of anchorage. It returned without having
+found the requisite depth at a cable's length from shore.
+
+The unfortunate victims of scurvy who had crawled on to the forecastle,
+cast looks of sorrowful longing at the fertile islands, which held the
+remedy for their sufferings and which Nature placed beyond their
+reach!
+
+The narrative says,--
+
+"They saw the cocoa-trees in abundance, laden with fruit, the milk of
+which is probably the most powerful anti-scorbutic in the world. They
+had reason for supposing that limes, bananas, and other tropical
+fruits abounded, and to add to their torments they saw the shells of
+tortoises floating on the shore."
+
+All these delights, which would have restored them to vigour, were no
+more attainable than if they had been separated by half the globe, but
+the sight of them increased the misery of their privations.
+
+Byron was anxious to curtail the tantalizing misery of his unfortunate
+crew, and giving the name of Disappointment Islands to the group, he
+set sail once more on the 8th of June.
+
+The very next day he found a new land, long, flat, covered with
+cocoa-nut trees. In its midst was a lake with a little islet. This
+feature alone was indicative of the madreporic formation of the soil,
+simple deposit, which was not yet, but which in time would become, an
+island. The boat sent to sound met in every direction with a coast as
+steep as a wall.
+
+Meanwhile the natives made hostile demonstrations. Two men entered the
+boat. One stole a sailor's waistcoat, another put out his hand for the
+quarter-master's cocked hat, but not knowing how to deal with it,
+pulled it towards him, instead of lifting it up, which gave the
+quarter-master an opportunity of interfering with his intention. Two
+large pirogues, each manned by thirty paddlers, showed an intention of
+attacking the vessels, but the latter immediately chased them. Just as
+they were running ashore a struggle ensued, and the English, all but
+overwhelmed by numbers, were forced to use their arms. Three or four
+natives were killed.
+
+Next day, the sailors and such of the sick as could leave their
+hammocks landed.
+
+The natives, intimidated by the lesson they had received in the
+evening, remained in concealment, whilst the English picked cocoa-nuts,
+and gathered anti-scorbutic plants. These timely refreshments were so
+useful that in a few days there was not a sick man on board.
+
+Parrots, rarely beautiful, and tame doves, and several kinds of
+unknown birds composed the fauna of the island, which received the
+name of King George--that which was discovered afterwards was called
+Prince of Wales' Island. All these lands belonged to the Pomotou group,
+which is also known as the Low Islands, a very suitable name for this
+archipelago.
+
+On the 21st again a new chain of islands surrounded by breakers was
+sighted. Byron did not attempt a thorough investigation of these, as
+to do so he would have incurred risks out of proportion to the benefit
+to be gained. He called them the Dangerous Islands.
+
+Six days later, Duke of York Island was discovered. The English found
+no inhabitants, but carried off two hundred cocoa-nuts, which appeared
+to them of inestimable value.
+
+A little farther, in latitude 1 degree 18 minutes south, longitude 173
+degrees 46 minutes west, a desert island received the name of Byron;
+it was situated eastward of the Gilbert group.
+
+The heat was overwhelming, and the sailors, weakened, by their long
+voyage and want of proper food, in addition to the putrid water they
+had been forced to drink, were almost all attacked by dysentery.
+
+At length, on the 28th of July, Byron joyfully recognized Saypan and
+Tinian Islands, which form part of the Marianne or Ladrone Islands,
+and he prepared to anchor in the very spot where Lord Anson had cast
+anchor with the _Centurion_. Tents were immediately prepared for the
+sufferers from scurvy. Almost all the sailors had been attacked by
+this terrible disease, many even had been at the point of death. The
+captain undertook to explore the dense wood which extended to the very
+edge of the shore, in search of the lovely country so enthusiastically
+described in the account written by Lord Anson's chaplain. How far
+were these enchanting descriptions from the truth! Impenetrable
+forests met him on every side, overgrown plants, briars, and tangled
+shrubs, at every step caught and tore his clothes. At the same time
+the explorers were attacked and stung by clouds of mosquitoes. Game
+was scarce and wild, the water detestable, the roadstead was never
+more dangerous than at this season.
+
+The halt was made, therefore, under unfortunate auspices. Still, in
+the end limes, bitter oranges, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruits, guavas, and
+others were found. But although these productions were beneficial to
+the invalids, who were shortly restored to vigour, the malarious
+atmosphere caused such violent fever that two sailors succumbed to it.
+In addition, the rain fell unceasingly and the heat was overpowering.
+Byron says that he never experienced such terrific heat, even in his
+visits to the coast of Guinea, the East Indies, or St. Thomas Island,
+which is immediately below the equator.
+
+Fowls and wild pigs which weighed about 2 cwt. each, were easily
+procurable, but had to be eaten immediately, as in less than a hour
+decomposition took place. Lastly, the fish caught upon this shore was
+so unwholesome, that even those who ate it in moderation became
+dangerously ill, and risked their lives.
+
+After a stay of nine weeks, the two ships, amply provisioned, left the
+port of Tinian. Byron continued his route to the north, after having
+passed Anatacan Island, already discovered by Anson. He hoped to meet
+the N.E. monsoon before reaching the Bashees, which form the extreme
+north of the Philippines. Upon the 22nd he perceived Grafton Island,
+the most northerly of this group, and upon the 3rd of November he
+arrived at Timoan, which had been mentioned by Dampier as a favourable
+place for procuring provisions. The natives, however, who are of Malay
+descent, refused the offer of hatchets, knives, and iron instruments
+in exchange for fowls--they demanded rupees. Finally they accepted
+some handkerchiefs in payment of a dozen fowls, a goat and its kid.
+Fortunately fish was abundant, as it would have been impossible to
+procure fresh victuals.
+
+Byron set sail once more on the 7th November, passed Poulo Condor at a
+distance, stopped at Poulo Taya, where he encountered a vessel bearing
+Dutch colours, but which was manned entirely by Malays. Reaching
+Sumatra, he explored the coast and cast anchor at Batavia, the
+principal seat of Dutch power in the East Indies, on the 20th November.
+
+At this time there were more than one hundred ships, large and small,
+in this roadstead, so flourishing was the trade of the East India
+Company at this epoch. The town was at the height of its prosperity.
+Its large and open thoroughfares, its admirable canals, bordered by
+pine-trees, its regular buildings, singularly recalled the cities of
+the Netherlands.
+
+Portuguese, Chinese, English, Dutch, Persians, Moors, and Malays,
+mixed in the streets, and transacted business. Fetes, receptions,
+gaieties of every kind impressed new comers with a high idea of the
+prosperity of the town, and contributed to make their stay a pleasant
+one. The sole drawback, and it was a serious one to crews after so
+long a voyage, was the unhealthiness of the locality, where endemic
+fevers abound. Byron being aware of this, hurried the embarkation of
+his provisions, and set sail after an interval of twelve days.
+
+Short as their stay had been, it had been too long. The fleet had
+scarcely reached the strait of the sound, before a malignant fever
+broke out among the crew, disabling half their number, and ending in
+the death of three sailors.
+
+After forty-eight days' navigation, Byron perceived the coast of
+Africa, and cast anchor three days later in Table Bay.
+
+Cape Town furnished all that he could require. Provisions, water,
+medicines, were all shipped with a rapidity which sufficiently
+indicated their anxiety to return, and once more the prow of the
+vessel was directed homewards.
+
+Two incidents occurred on the passage across the Atlantic, thus
+described by Byron.
+
+"Off St. Helena, in fine weather, and with a favourable wind, the
+vessel, then at a considerable distance from land, received a shock
+which was as severe as if she had struck on a rock. Its violence so
+alarmed us that we all ran to the bridge. Our fears were dissipated
+when we saw the sea tinged with blood to a great distance. We
+concluded that we had come in contact with a whale or a grampus, and
+that our ship had apparently received no damage, which was true."
+
+A few days later, however, the _Tamar_ was found to be in such a
+dilapidated state, such grave injuries were discovered in her rudder,
+that it was necessary to invent something to replace it, and to enable
+her to reach the Antilles, it being too great a risk to allow her to
+continue her voyage.
+
+Upon the 9th of May, 1766, the _Dauphin_ anchored in the Downs, after
+a voyage round the world which had lasted for twenty-three months.
+
+This was the most fortunate of all the circumnavigation voyages
+undertaken by the English. Up to this date, no purely scientific
+voyage had been attempted. If it was less fruitful of results than had
+been anticipated, the fault lay not so much with the captain as with
+the Lords of the Admiralty. They were not sufficiently accurate in
+their instructions, and had not taken the trouble (as was done in
+later voyages) of sending special professors of the various branches
+of science with the expedition.
+
+Full justice, however, was paid to Byron. The title of Admiral was
+conferred on him, and an important command in the East Indies was
+entrusted to him. But we have no interest in the latter part of his
+life, which ended in 1786, and to that, therefore, we need not allude.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+Wallis and Carteret--Preparations for the Expedition--Difficult
+navigation of the Strait of Magellan--Separation of the _Dauphin_ and
+the _Swallow_--Whitsunday Island--Queen Charlotte's Island--Cumberland,
+Henry Islands, &c.--Tahiti--Howe, Boscawen, and Keppel Islands--Wallis
+Island--Batavia--The Cape--The Downs--Discovery of Pitcairn, Osnaburgh,
+and Gloucester Islands by Carteret--Santa Cruz Archipelago--Solomon
+Islands--St. George's canal and New Ireland, Portland and Admiralty
+Islands--Batavia and Macassar--Meeting with Bougainville in the
+Atlantic.
+
+
+The impulse once given, England inaugurated the series of scientific
+expeditions which were to prove so fruitful of results, and to raise
+her naval reputation to such a height.
+
+Admirable indeed is the training acquired in these voyages round the
+world. In them the crew, the officers, and sailors, are constantly
+brought face to face with unforeseen difficulties and dangers, which
+call forth the best qualities of the sailor, the soldier, and the man!
+
+If France succumbed to the naval superiority of Great Britain during
+the revolutionary and imperial wars, was it not fully as much owing to
+this stern training of the British seaman, as to the internal
+dissensions which deprived France of the services of the greater part
+of her naval staff?
+
+Be this as it may, the English Admiralty, shortly after Byron's return,
+organized a new expedition. Their preparations appear to have been far
+too hasty. The _Dauphin_ only anchored in the Downs at the beginning
+of May, and six weeks later, on the 19th of June, Captain Samuel
+Wallis received the command.
+
+This officer, after attaining the highest rank in the military marine
+service, had been entrusted with an important command in Canada, and
+had assisted in the capture of Louisburgh. We cannot tell what
+qualities commended him to the Admiralty in preference to his
+companions in arms, but in any case, the noble lords had no reason to
+regret their decision. Wallis hastened the needful preparations on
+board the _Dauphin_, and on the 21st of August (less than a month
+after receiving his commission), he joined the sloop _Swallow_ and the
+_Prince Frederick_ in Plymouth Harbour.
+
+The latter was in charge of Lieutenant Brine, the former was commanded
+by Philip Carteret. Both were most distinguished officers who had just
+returned from a voyage round the world with Commodore Byron, and whose
+reputation was destined to be increased by their second voyage.
+
+The _Swallow_, unfortunately, appears to have been quite unfit for the
+service demanded of her. Having already been thirty years in service,
+the sheathing was very much worn, and her keel was not studded with
+nails, which might have served instead of sheathing to protect her
+from parasites. Again the provisions and marketable commodities were
+so unequally divided, that the _Swallow_ received much less than the
+_Dauphin_. Carteret begged in vain for a rope yarn, a forge, and
+various things which his experience told him would be indispensable.
+
+This rebuff confirmed Carteret in his notion that he should not get
+further than the Falkland Isles, but none the less he took every
+precaution which his experience dictated to him.
+
+As soon as the equipment was complete, on the 22nd of April 1766, the
+vessels set sail. It did not take Wallis long to find out that the
+_Swallow_ was a bad sailer, and that he might anticipate much trouble
+during his voyage. However, no accident happened during the voyage to
+Madeira, where the vessels put in to revictual.
+
+Upon leaving the port, the commander supplied Carteret with a copy of
+his instructions, and selected Port Famine, in the Strait of Magellan,
+as a rendezvous, in case of separation.
+
+Their stay at Port Praya, in the Island of Santiago, was shortened on
+account of the ravages committed there by the small-pox, and Wallis
+would not even allow his crew to land. Shortly after leaving the
+Equator, the _Prince Frederick_ gave signs of distress, and it was
+necessary to send the carpenter on board to stop up a leak on the
+larboard side. This vessel, which was provided with inferior
+provisions, counted already a number of sick among her crew.
+
+Towards eight o'clock in the evening of the 19th of November, the
+crews perceived in the N.E. a meteor of extraordinary appearance,
+moving in a straight line towards the S.W. with marvellous rapidity.
+It was visible for almost a minute, and left behind a trail of light,
+so bright that the deck was illuminated as if it were mid-day.
+
+On the 8th of December, the coast of Patagonia was at last visible.
+Wallis skirted it until he reached Cape Virgin, where he landed with
+the armed detachments of the _Swallow_ and _Prince Frederick_. A crowd
+of natives awaited them upon the shore, and received with apparent
+satisfaction the knives, scissors, and other trifles which it was
+usual to distribute upon such occasions, but they would not part with
+guanacos, ostriches, or any other game which were seen in their
+possession for any consideration. Wallis says,--
+
+"We took the measure of the largest of them, one was six feet six
+inches in height, several were five feet five inches, but the average
+was five foot six, or six feet."
+
+It must be remembered that these were English feet, which are only 305
+millemetres.
+
+If these natives were not quite so tall as the giants mentioned by
+previous navigators, they were very little less striking.
+
+"Each one," continues the narrative, "carried a strange kind of weapon,
+it consisted of two round stones, covered with copper, each of which
+weighed about a pound, and they were attached at both ends to a cord
+about eight feet long. They used them like slings, holding one of the
+stones in the hand, and whirling the other round the head until it
+attained sufficient velocity, when they threw it towards the object
+they wished to strike. They managed this weapon so adroitly that they
+could strike a butt no larger than a shilling with both stones, at a
+distance of fifteen roods. They did not, however, employ it in chasing
+guanacos or ostriches."
+
+Wallis conducted eight of these Patagonians on board. They did not
+appear surprised, as one would have expected, at the number of new and
+extraordinary things they met with. They advanced, retired, made a
+thousand grimaces before the mirrors, shouted with laughter, and
+conversed animatedly among themselves. Their attention was attracted
+by the pigs for a moment, but they were immensely amused with the
+guinea fowls and turkeys. It was difficulty to persuade them to leave
+the vessel. At last they returned to the shore, singing and making
+signs of delight to their countrymen who awaited them on the bank.
+
+[Illustration: "They made a thousand grimaces."]
+
+On the 17th of December, Wallis signalled the _Swallow_ to head the
+squadron for the passage of the Straits of Magellan.
+
+At Port Famine the commander had two tents erected on shore for the
+sick, the wood-cutters, and the sailors. Fish in sufficient quantities
+for each day's meal, abundance of celery, and acid fruits similar to
+cranberries and barberries, were to be found in this harbour, and in
+the course of about a fortnight these remedies completely restored the
+numerous sufferers from scurvy. The vessels were repaired and
+partially calked, the sails were mended, the rigging, which had been a
+good deal strained, was overhauled and repaired, and all was soon
+ready for sea again.
+
+But Wallis first ordered a large quantity of wood to be cut and
+conveyed on board the _Prince Frederick_, for transport to the
+Falkland Isles, where it is not obtainable. At the same time he had
+hundreds of young trees carefully dug up, and the roots covered in
+their native soil to facilitate their transplantation in Port Egmont,
+that in taking root--as there was reason to hope they would--they
+might supply the barren archipelago with this precious commodity.
+
+Lastly, the provisions were divided between the _Dauphin_ and the
+_Swallow_. The former taking sufficient for a year, the latter for ten
+months.
+
+We will not enlarge upon the different incidents which befell the two
+ships in the Straits of Magellan, such as sudden gales, tempests and
+snowstorms, irregular and rapid currents, heavy seas and fogs, which
+more than once brought the vessels within an inch of destruction. The
+_Swallow_ especially, was in such a dilapidated condition, that
+Carteret besought Wallis to consider his vessel no longer of any use
+in the expedition, and to tell him what course should best be pursued
+for the public good.
+
+Wallis replied, "The orders of the Admiralty are concise, and you must
+conform to them, and accompany the _Dauphin_ as long as possible. I am
+aware that the _Swallow_ is a bad sailer; I will accommodate myself to
+her speed, and follow her movements, for it is most important that in
+case of accident to one of the ships, the other should be within reach,
+to give all the assistance in her power."
+
+Carteret had nothing to urge in reply, but he augured badly for the
+result of the expedition.
+
+As the ships approached the opening of the straits on the Pacific side,
+the weather became abominable. A thick fog, falls of snow and rain,
+currents which sent the vessels on to the breakers, a chopping sea,
+contributed to detain the navigators in the straits until the 10th of
+April. On that day, the _Dauphin_ and _Swallow_ were separated off
+Cape Pilar, and could not find each other, Wallis not having fixed a
+rendezvous in case of separation.
+
+Before we follow Wallis on his voyage across the Pacific, we will give
+a short account of the wretched natives of Tierra del Fuego, and of
+the general appearance of their country. These wretches, who were as
+miserable and debased as possible, subsisted upon the raw flesh of
+seals and penguins.
+
+"One of our men," says Wallis, "who fished with a line, bestowed a
+live fish, which he had just caught, and which was about the size of a
+herring, upon one of these Americans. He took it with the eagerness of
+a dog snatching a bone. He commenced operations by killing the fish
+with a bite near the gills, and proceeded to devour it, beginning at
+the head and finishing at the tail, without rejecting the bones, fins,
+scales, or entrails. In fact, these people swallowed everything that
+was offered to them, cooked or uncooked, fresh or salt, but they
+refused all drink but water. Their sole covering was a miserable
+seal-skin reaching to the knees. Their weapons were javelins tipped
+with a fish-bone. They all suffered from bad eyes, which the English
+attributed to their custom of living in smoke to protect themselves
+from mosquitos. Lastly, they emitted a most offensive smell, only to
+be likened to that of foxes, which doubtless arose from their
+excessively filthy habits."
+
+Although certainly not inviting, this picture is graphic, as all
+navigators testify. It would appear that progress is not possible to
+these savages, so nearly allied to brutes. Civilization is a dead
+letter to them, and they still vegetate like their forefathers, with
+no wish to improve, and with no ambition to attain a more comfortable
+existence. Wallis continues,--
+
+"Thus we quitted this savage and uninhabitable region, where for four
+months we had been in constant danger of shipwreck, where in the
+height of summer the weather is foggy, cold, and stormy, where almost
+all the valleys are without verdure, and the mountains without woods,
+in short where the land which one can see rather resembles the ruins
+of a world, than the abode of living creatures."
+
+Wallis was scarcely free of the strait, when he set sail westward in
+spite of dense fogs, and with high wind and such a heavy sea, that for
+weeks together there was not a dry corner in the ship.
+
+The constant exposure to damp engendered cold and severe fevers, to
+which scurvy shortly succeeded. Upon reaching 32 degrees south
+latitude, and 100 degrees west longitude, the navigator steered due
+north.
+
+Upon the 6th of June, two islands were discovered amidst general
+rejoicings.
+
+The ships' boats, well armed and equipped, reached the shore under
+command of Lieutenant Furneaux. A quantity of cocoa-nuts and
+anti-scorbutic plants were obtained, but although the English found
+huts and sheds, they did not meet with a single inhabitant. This
+island was discovered on the eve of Whitsunday and hence received the
+name Whitsunday.
+
+It is situated in 19 degrees 26 minutes south latitude, and 137
+degrees 56' minutes west longitude. Like the following islands, it
+belongs to the Pomotou group.
+
+Next day, the English endeavoured to make overtures to the inhabitants
+of another island, but the natives appeared so ill-disposed and the
+coast was so steep, that it was impossible to land. After tacking
+about all night, Wallis despatched the boats, with orders not to use
+violence to the inhabitants if they could avoid it, or unless
+absolutely obliged.
+
+As Lieutenant Furneaux approached the land, he was astonished by the
+sight of two large pirogues with double masts, in which the natives
+were on the eve of embarking.
+
+As soon as they had done so, the English landed, and searched the
+island thoroughly. They discovered several pits full of good water.
+The soil was firm, sandy, covered with trees, more especially
+cocoanut-trees, palm-trees, and sprinkled with anti-scorbutic plants.
+The narrative says,--
+
+"The natives of this island were of moderate stature. Their skin was
+brown, and they had long black hair, straggling over the shoulders.
+The men were finely formed, and the women were beautiful. Some coarse
+material formed their garment, which was tied round the waist, and
+appeared to be intended to be raised round the shoulders. In the
+afternoon, Wallis sent the lieutenant to procure water and to take
+possession of the island in the name of King George III. It was called
+Queen Charlotte's Island, in honour of the English queen."
+
+After reconnoitring personally, Wallis determined to remain in this
+region for a week, in order to profit by the facilities it afforded
+for provisioning.
+
+In their walks the English met with working implements made of shells,
+and sharpened stones shaped like axes, scissors, and awls. They also
+noticed boats in course of construction, made of boards joined
+together. But they were most of all astonished at meeting with tombs
+upon which the dead bodies were exposed under a sort of awning, and
+where they putrified in the open air.
+
+When they quitted the island, they left hatchets, nails, bottles, and
+other things as reparation for any damage they might have committed.
+
+The 17th century teamed with philanthropic aspirations! And from the
+accounts of all navigators one is led to believe that the theory so
+much advocated was put into practice upon most occasions. Humanity had
+made great strides. Difference of colour no longer presented an
+insuperable barrier to a man's being treated as a brother, and the
+convention which at the close of the century ordered the freedom of
+the black, set a seal to the convictions of numbers.
+
+The _Dauphin_ discovered new land, the same day that she left Queen
+Charlotte's Island. It lay to the westward, but after cruising along
+the coast, the vessel was unable to find anchorage. Lying low, it was
+covered with trees, neither cocoa-nuts nor inhabitants were to be
+found, and it evidently was merely a rendezvous for the hunters and
+fishers of the neighbouring islands. Wallis therefore decided not to
+stop. It received the name of Egmont, in honour of Earl Egmont, then
+chief Lord of the Admiralty. The following days brought new
+discoveries. Gloucester, Cumberland, William, Henry, and Osnaburgh
+Islands, were sighted in succession. Lieutenant Furneaux was able to
+procure provisions without landing at the last named.
+
+Observing several large pirogues on the beach, he drew the conclusion
+that other and perhaps larger islands would be found at no great
+distance, where they would probably find abundant provisions, and to
+which access might be less difficult. His pre-vision was right. As the
+sun rose upon the 19th, the English sailors were astonished at finding
+themselves surrounded by pirogues of all sizes, having on board no
+less than eight hundred natives. After having consulted together at
+some distance, a few of the natives approached, holding in their hands
+banana branches. They were on the point of climbing up the vessels,
+when an absurd accident interrupted these cordial relations.
+
+[Illustration: The natives waving palm-leaves as a sign of welcome.]
+
+One of them had climbed into the gangway when a goat ran at him.
+Turning he perceived the strange animal upon its hind legs preparing
+to attack him again. Overcome with terror, he jumped back into the sea,
+an example quickly followed by the others. It recalled the incident of
+the sheep of Panurge.
+
+Recovering from this alarm, they again climbed into the ship, and
+brought all their cunning to bear upon petty thefts. However, only one
+officer had his hat stolen. The vessel all the time was following the
+coast in search of a fitting harbour, whilst the boats coasted the
+shore for soundings.
+
+The English had never found a more picturesque and attractive country
+in any of their voyages. On the shore, the huts of the natives were
+sheltered by shady woods, in which flourished graceful clusters of
+cocoanut-trees. Graduated chains of hills, with wooded summits, and
+the silver sheen of rivers glistening amid the verdure as they found
+their way to the sea, added to the beauty of the interior.
+
+The boats sent to take soundings were suddenly surrounded at the
+entrance of a large bay by a crowd of pirogues. Wallis, to avoid a
+collision, gave the order for the discharge from the swivel gun above
+the natives' heads, but although the noise terrified them, they still
+continued their approach.
+
+The captain accordingly ordered his boats to make for the shore, and
+the natives finding themselves disregarded, threw some sharp stones
+which wounded a few sailors. But the captains of the boats replied to
+this attack by a volley of bullets, which injured one of them, and was
+followed by the flight of the rest.
+
+The _Dauphin_ anchored next day at the mouth of a large river in
+twenty fathoms of water. The sailors rejoiced universally. The natives
+immediately surrounded them with pirogues, bringing pigs, fowls, and
+various fruits, which were quickly exchanged for hardware and nails.
+One of the boats employed in taking soundings, however, was attacked
+by blows from paddles and sticks, and the sailors were forced to use
+their weapons. One native was killed, a second severely wounded, and
+the rest jumped into the water. Seeing that they were not pursued, and
+conscious that they themselves had been the aggressors, they returned
+to traffic with the _Dauphin_ as if nothing had happened. Upon
+returning on board, the officers reported that the natives had invited
+them to land, more especially the women, with unequivocal gestures,
+and that moreover, there was excellent anchorage near the shore within
+reach of water.
+
+The only inconvenience arose from a considerable swell. The _Dauphin_
+accordingly weighed anchor and proceeded into the open sea to run with
+the wind, when all at once Wallis perceived a bay seven or eight miles
+distant, which he determined to reach. The captain was soon to
+experience the truth of the proverb which asserts that one had better
+leave well alone.
+
+Although soundings were taken by the boats as they advanced, the
+_Dauphin_ struck on a rock and damaged her forepart. The usual
+measures in such a case were taken immediately, but outside the chain
+of madreporic rocks no depth could be sounded. It was consequently
+impossible to cast anchor, or to use the capstan. What course had best
+be pursued in this critical situation? The vessel beat violently
+against the rocks, and a host of pirogues waited in expectation of a
+shipwreck, eager to clutch their prey. Fortunately at the end of an
+hour a favourable breeze rising, disengaged the _Dauphin_, and wafted
+her into good anchorage. The damage done was not serious, and was as
+easily repaired as forgotten.
+
+Wallis, rendered prudent by the constant efforts of the natives,
+divided his men into four parties, one of which was always to be armed.
+And he ordered guns to be fired. But after one or two rounds the
+number of pirogues increased, and no longer laden with poultry, they
+appeared to be filled with stones. The crews of the larger vessels
+also were augmented.
+
+All at once upon a given signal a storm of pebbles fell upon the ship.
+Wallis ordered a general discharge, and had two guns loaded with fine
+shot. The natives, after some slight hesitation and disorder, returned
+to the attack with great bravery; and the captain, noticing the
+constantly increasing numbers of the assailants, was not without
+anxiety as to the result, when an unexpected event put an end to the
+contest.
+
+Among the pirogues which attacked the _Dauphin_ most energetically,
+was one which appeared to contain a chief, as from it the signal of
+attack was given. A well-directed shot cut this double pirogue in two.
+
+This was enough to decide the natives upon retreat. They set about it
+so precipitately that in less than half an hour not a single boat
+remained in sight. The vessel was then towed into port, and so placed
+as to protect the disembarkation. Lieutenant Furneaux landed at the
+head of a strong detachment of sailors and marines, and planting the
+English flag, took possession of the island in the name of the King of
+England, in whose honour it was named George the Third. The natives
+called it Tahiti.
+
+After prostrating themselves, and offering various marks of repentance,
+the natives appeared anxious to commence friendly and honest business
+with the English, but fortunately Wallis, who was detained on board by
+severe illness, perceived preparations for a simultaneous attack by
+land and sea upon the men sent to find water. The shorter the struggle
+the less the loss! Acting upon which principle, directly the natives
+came within gunshot range, a few discharges dispersed their fleet.
+
+To put a stop to these attempts, it was necessary to make an example.
+Wallis decided with regret that it was so. He accordingly sent a
+detachment on shore at once with his carpenters, ordering them to
+destroy every pirogue which was hauled up on the beach. More than
+fifty, many of them sixty feet long, were hacked to pieces. Upon this
+the Tahitians decided to give in. They brought pigs, dogs, stuffs, and
+fruits to the shore, placed them there, and then withdrew. The English
+left in exchange hatchets and toys which were carried off to the
+forest with many delighted gestures.
+
+Peace was established, and from the morrow a regular and abundant
+traffic commenced, which supplied the ships with the fresh provisions
+needed by the crews. There was ground for hope that these amicable
+relations would continue during their stay in the island, now that the
+natives had once realized the power and effect of the strangers'
+weapons. Wallis, therefore, ordered a tent to be prepared near the
+water supply, and disembarked all the sufferers from scurvy, whilst
+the healthy members of his company were engaged in repairing the
+rigging, mending the sails, and calking and repainting the vessel,
+putting her, in short, in a condition fitted for the long journey
+which was to take her to England.
+
+[Illustration: Polynesia. Grave par E. Morieu.]
+
+At this juncture Wallis's illness assumed an alarming character. The
+first lieutenant was in hardly better health. All the responsibility
+of the expedition fell upon Furneaux, who was quite equal to the task.
+After a rest of fifteen days, during which the peace had not been
+disturbed, Wallis found all his invalids restored to health.
+
+Provisions, however, became less plentiful. The natives, spoilt by the
+abundance of nails and hatchets, became more exacting.
+
+Upon the 15th of July, a tall woman, apparently some forty-five years
+of age, of majestic appearance, and who seemed to be much respected by
+the natives, came on board the _Dauphin_. Wallis at once perceived by
+the dignity of her deportment, and the freedom of her manner, peculiar
+to persons habituated to command, that she was of high station. He
+presented her with a blue mantle, a looking-glass, and other gewgaws,
+which she received with an expression of profound contentment. Upon
+leaving the vessel she invited the captain to land, and to pay her a
+visit. Wallis, although still very weak, did not fail to comply with
+this request next day. He was conducted to a large hut, which covered
+about 327 feet in length, and 42 in width. The roof was constructed of
+palm leaves and was supported by fifty-three pillars.
+
+A considerable crowd, collected together by the event, lined the
+approach, and received him respectfully. The visit was enlivened by a
+comical incident. The surgeon of the vessel, who perspired greatly
+from the effects of the walk, to relieve himself took off his wig. A
+sudden exclamation from one of the Indians at this sight, drew general
+attention to the prodigy, and all fixed their eyes upon it. The whole
+assemblage remained perfectly still for some moments, in the silence
+of astonishment, which could not have been greater if they had seen
+one of our company decapitated.
+
+Next day, a messenger, sent to convey a present to Queen Oberoa, in
+acknowledgment of her gracious reception, found her giving a feast to
+several hundred persons.
+
+Her servants carried the dishes to her already prepared, the meat in
+cocoa-nut shells, and the shell fish in a sort of wooden trough,
+similar to those used by our butchers. She herself distributed them
+with her own hands to each of her guests, who were sitting and
+standing all round the house. When this was over, she seated herself
+upon a sort of raised dais, and two women beside her gave her her food.
+They offered the viands to her in their fingers; and she had only to
+take the trouble to open her mouth.
+
+The consequences of this exchange of civilities were speedily felt.
+The market was once more fully supplied with provisions, although no
+longer at the same low price as upon the first arrival of the English.
+
+Lieutenant Furneaux reconnoitred the length of the coast westward, to
+gain an idea of the island, and to see what it was possible to obtain
+from it. The English were everywhere well received. They found a
+pleasant country, densely populated, whose inhabitants appeared in no
+hurry to sell their commodities. All their working implements were
+either of stone or of bone, which led Lieutenant Furneaux to infer
+that the Tahitians possess no metals.
+
+As they had no earthenware vessels, they had no idea that water could
+be heated. They discovered it one day when the queen dined on board.
+One of the principal members of her suite, having seen the surgeon
+pour water from the boiler into the teapot, turned the tap and
+received the scalding liquor upon his hand. Finding himself burnt, he
+uttered most frightful screams, and ran round the cabin making most
+extravagant gestures. His companions, unable to imagine what had
+happened to him, stared at him with mingled astonishment and fear. The
+surgeon hastened to interfere, but for a long time the poor Tahitian
+refused to be comforted.
+
+Some days later, Wallis discovered that his sailors stole nails to
+give them to the native women. They even went so far as to raise the
+planks of the ship to obtain screws, nails, bolts, and all the bits of
+iron which united them to the timbers. Wallis treated the offence
+rigorously, but nothing availed, and in spite of the precaution he
+took, of allowing no one to leave the vessel without being searched,
+these robberies constantly occurred.
+
+An expedition, undertaken into the interior, discovered a large valley
+watered by a beautiful river. Everywhere the soil was carefully
+cultivated, and arrangements had been made for watering the gardens
+and the fruit plantations. Farther penetrations into the interior
+proved the capacious windings of the river; the valley narrowed, the
+hills were succeeded by mountains, at every step the way became more
+difficult. A peak, distant about six miles from the place of landing,
+was climbed, in the hope of thus discovering the entire island, even
+to its smallest recesses. But the view was intercepted by yet higher
+mountains. On the side towards the sea, however, nothing interfered
+with the magnificent view which stretched before their gaze,
+everywhere hills, covered with magnificent woods, upon whose verdant
+slopes the huts of the natives stood out clearly, and in the valleys
+with their numberless cabins, and gardens surrounded by hedges, the
+scenes were still more enchanting. The sugar cane, ginger plant,
+tamarind and tree ferns, with cocoanut-trees, furnished the principal
+resources of this fertile country.
+
+Wallis, wishing to enrich it still more with the productions of our
+own climate, caused peach, cherry, and plum stones to be planted, as
+well as lemon, orange and lime pips, and sowed quantities of vegetable
+seeds. At the same time he gave the queen a present of a cat about to
+kitten, of two cocks, fowls, geese, and other domestic animals, which
+he hoped might breed well.
+
+However, time pressed, and Wallis decided to leave. When he announced
+his intention to the queen, she threw herself upon a seat and cried
+for a long time, with so much grief that it was impossible to comfort
+her. She remained upon the vessel up to the last moment, and as it set
+sail "embraced us," says Wallis, "in the tenderest way, weeping
+plenteously, and our friends the Tahitians bade us farewell, with so
+much sorrow, and in so touching a manner, that I felt heavy-hearted,
+and my eyes filled with tears." The uncourteous reception of the
+English, and the repeated attempts made by the natives to seize the
+vessel, would hardly have led to the idea of a painful separation!
+However, as the proverb has it, All's well that ends well!
+
+Of Wallis' observations of the manners and customs of the island, we
+shall only enumerate the few following, as we shall have occasion to
+return to them again in relating the voyages undertaken by
+Bougainville and Cook.
+
+Tall, well built, active, slightly dark in complexion, the natives
+were clothed in a species of white stuff made from the bark of trees.
+Two pieces of stuff completed their costume, one was square and looked
+like a blanket. The head was thrust through a hole in the centre, and
+it recalled the "zarapo" of the Mexicans, and the "poncho" of the
+South American Indian. The second piece was rolled round the body,
+without being tightened. Almost all, men and women, tattoo their
+bodies with black lines close together, representing different figures.
+The operation was thus performed: the pattern was pricked in the skin,
+and the holes filled with a sort of paste composed of oil and grease,
+which left an indelible mark.
+
+[Illustration: Head-dresses of natives of Tahiti. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+Civilization has little advanced. We have already stated that the
+Tahitians did not understand earthenware vessels. Wallis, therefore,
+presented the queen with a saucepan, which everybody flocked to
+inspect with extreme curiosity.
+
+As to religion, the captain found no trace of that! He only noticed
+that upon entering certain places, which he took to be cemeteries,
+they maintained a respectful appearance, and wore mourning apparel.
+
+One of the natives, more disposed than his companions to adopt English
+manners, was presented with a complete suit of clothes, which became
+him very well. Jonathan--so they had named him, was quite proud of his
+new outfit. To put the finishing touch to his manners, he desired to
+learn the use of a fork. But habit was too strong for him! his hands
+always went to his mouth! and the bit of meat at the end of the fork,
+found its way to his ear.
+
+It was the 27th of July, when Wallis left the George III. Island.
+After coasting Duke of York Island, he discovered several islands or
+islets in succession, upon which he did not touch. For example,
+Charles Saunders, Lord Howe, Scilly, Boscawen, and Keppel Islands,
+where the hostile character of the natives, and the difficulty of
+disembarkation prevented his landing.
+
+Winter was now to begin in the southern region. The vessel leaked in
+all directions, the stern especially was much strained by the rudder.
+Was it wise, under such circumstances, to sail for Cape Horn or the
+Straits of Magellan? Would it not be running the risk of certain
+shipwreck? Would it not be better to reach Tinian or Batavia, where
+repairs were possible, and to return to Europe by the Cape of Good
+Hope?
+
+Wallis decided upon the latter course. He steered for the north-west,
+and upon the 19th of September, after a voyage which was too fortunate
+to supply any incidents, he cast anchor in the Tinian harbour.
+
+The incidents which marked Byron's stay in this place were repeated,
+with far too much regularity. Wallis could not rejoice over its
+facilities for provisioning, or the temperature of the country, any
+more than his predecessors. But the sufferers from scurvy recovered in
+a short time, the sails were mended, and the vessel calked and
+repaired, and the crew had the unexpected good fortune of catching no
+fever.
+
+On the 16th October, 1769, the _Dauphin_ returned to sea, but this
+time, she encountered a succession of frightful storms, which tore the
+sails, reopened the leakage, broke the rudder, and carried away the
+poop with all that was to be found on the forecastle.
+
+However, the Bashees were rounded, and Formosa Strait crossed, Sandy
+Isle, Small Key, Long Island, and New Island were recognized, as also,
+Condor, Timor, Aros, and Pisang, Pulo-Taya, Pulo-Tote, and Sumatra,
+before the arrival at Batavia, which took place upon the 30th of
+November.
+
+We have already had occasion to mention the localities which witnessed
+the completion of the voyage. It is enough to state that from Batavia,
+where the crews took the fever, Wallis proceeded by the Cape, thence
+to St. Helena, and finally arrived in the Downs, on the 20th of May,
+1768, after six hundred and thirty-seven days' voyage.
+
+It is to be regretted that Hawkesworth has not reproduced the
+instructions Wallis received from the Admiralty. Without knowing what
+they were, we cannot decide whether this brave sailor carried out the
+orders he had received _au pied de la lettre_. We have seen that he
+followed with little variation the route traced by his predecessors,
+in the Pacific Ocean. In fact, nearly all had approached by the
+dangerous archipelago, leaving unexplored that portion of Oceania,
+where islands are most numerous, and where Cook was later to make such
+important discoveries.
+
+Clever as a navigator, Wallis understood how to obtain from a hasty
+and incomplete equipment unexpected resources, which enabled him to
+bring an adventurous enterprise to a successful close. He is equally
+to be honoured for his humanity and the efforts he made to collect
+reliable information of the countries he visited. Had he only been
+accompanied by special men of science, there is no doubt that their
+scientific harvest would have been abundant.
+
+The fault lay with the Admiralty.
+
+We have related how, on the 10th of April, 1767, as the _Dauphin_ and
+the _Swallow_ entered the Pacific, the former, carried away by a
+strong breeze, had lost sight of the latter, and had been unable to
+follow her. This separation was most unfortunate for Captain Carteret.
+He knew better than any of his crew the dilapidated condition of his
+vessel and the insufficiency of his provisions. In short, he was well
+aware that he could only hope to meet the _Dauphin_ in England, as no
+plan of operation had been arranged, and no rendezvous had been
+named--a grave omission on Wallis' part, who was aware of the
+condition of his consort.
+
+Nevertheless, Carteret allowed none of his apprehensions to come to
+the knowledge of the crew. At first the detestable weather experienced
+by the _Swallow_ upon the Pacific Ocean (most misleading name),
+allowed no time for reflection. The dangers of the passing moment, in
+which there was every prospect of their being engulfed, hid from them
+the perils of the future.
+
+Carteret steered for the north, by the coast of Chili. Upon
+investigating the quantity of soft water which he had on board, he
+found it quite insufficient for the voyage he had undertaken. He
+determined therefore, before setting sail for the west, to take in
+water at Juan Fernandez, or at Mas-a-Fuero.
+
+The weather continued wretched. Upon the evening of the 27th a sudden
+squall was followed by a rising wind, which carried the vessel
+straight to the Cape. The violence of the storm failed to carry away
+the masts or to founder the ship. The tempest continued in all its
+fury, and the sails being extremely wet, clung round the masts and
+rigging so closely, that it was impossible to work them. Next day a
+sudden wave broke the mizen-mast, just where there was a flaw in the
+sail, and submerged the vessels for a few moments. The storm only
+abated sufficiently to allow the crew of the _Swallow_ time to recover
+a little, and to repair the worst damage; then recommenced, and
+continued with violent squalls until the 7th of May. The wind then
+became favourable, and three days later Juan Fernandez was reached.
+
+Carteret was not aware that the Spaniards had fortified this island.
+He was, therefore, extremely surprised at seeing a large number of men
+upon the shore, and at perceiving a battery of four pieces on the
+beach, and a fort, pierced with twenty embrasures and surmounted by
+the Spanish flag, upon a hill.
+
+The rising wind prevented an entrance into Cumberland Bay, and after
+cruising about for an entire day, Carteret was obliged to content
+himself with reaching Mas-a-Fuero. But he met the same obstacles, and
+the surge which broke upon the shore interfered with his operations,
+and it was only with the utmost difficulty that he succeeded in
+shipping a few casks of water. Some of the crew, who had been forced
+by the state of the sea to remain on land, killed guinea fowls enough
+to feed the entire crew. These, with the exception of some seals and
+plenty of fish, were the sole result of a stay, marked by a succession
+of squalls and storms, which constantly placed the ship in danger.
+
+Carteret, who, owing to unfavourable winds, had had several
+opportunities of noticing Mas-a-Fuero, corrected many of the errors in
+the account of Lord Anson's voyage, and furnished many details of
+inestimable use to navigators.
+
+On leaving Mas-a-Fuero, Carteret steered northward in the hope of
+meeting the south-eastern trade wind. Carried farther than he had
+counted upon, he determined to seek St. Ambrose, and St. Felix Island,
+or the island of St. Paul. Now that the Spaniards had taken possession
+of and fortified Juan Fernandez, those islands might be of great value
+to the English in the event of war.
+
+But Mr. Green's charts and the "Elements of Navigation" by Robertson
+did not tally as to their situation. Carteret, having most confidence
+in the latter work, sought for them in the north, and failed to find
+them. In re-reading the description given by Waser, Davis' surgeon, he
+thought these two islands were identical with the land met with by
+that filibuster, in his route to the south of the Galapagos Islands,
+and that Davis' Land did not exist. This caused a double error, that
+of identifying St. Felix Island with Davis' Land, and of denying the
+existence of the latter, which is in reality Easter Island.
+
+"At this parallel," says Carteret, that is in 18 degrees west from his
+point of departure, "we had fresh breezes, and a strong northerly
+current, and other reasons for conjecturing that we were near Davis'
+Land, which we were seeking so carefully. But a stiff breeze rising
+again, we steered quarter S.W. and reached 28-1/2 degrees southern
+latitude, from which it follows that if this land or anything
+answering to it exists, I must infallibly have fallen in with it, or
+at least have seen it. I afterwards remained in 28 degrees south
+latitude, and 40 degrees west of my point of departure, and as far as
+I can conjecture 121 degrees west London."
+
+All the navigators combined in insisting upon the existence of a
+southern continent. Carteret could not conceive that Davis' Land was
+but a small island, a spot lost in the immensity of the ocean. As he
+found no continent, he decided upon the non-existence of Davis' Land.
+It was precisely in this way that he was misled.
+
+Carteret continued his search until the 7th of June. He was in 28
+degrees south latitude and 112 degrees west longitude, that is to say,
+he was in the immediate neighbourhood of Easter Island. It was still
+the depth of winter. The sea ran continually high, violent and
+variable winds, dull, foggy, and cold weather was accompanied by
+thunder, rain, and snow. No doubt it was owing to the great darkness,
+and to the thick fog, which hid the sun for several days, that
+Carteret failed to perceive Easter Island, for many signs, such as the
+number of birds, floating seaweeds, &c., announced the neighbourhood
+of land.
+
+These atmospheric troubles again retarded the voyage, in addition to
+which the _Swallow_ was as bad a sailer as possible, and one may guess
+at the weariness, the preoccupation, even the mental suffering of the
+captain, who saw his crew on the point of starvation. But in spite of
+all, the voyage was continued by day and night in a westerly direction
+until the 2nd of July. Upon this day land was discovered to the north,
+and on the morrow, Carteret was sufficiently close to recognize it. It
+was only a great rock five miles in circumference, covered with trees,
+which appeared uninhabited, but the swell, so prevalent at this time
+of year, prevented the vessel coming alongside. It was named Pitcairn,
+after the first discoverer. In these latitudes, the sailors,
+previously in good health, felt the first attacks of scurvy.
+
+Upon the 11th, a new land was seen in 22 degrees southern latitude,
+and 145 degrees 34 minutes longitude. It received the name of
+Osnaburgh in honour of the king's second son.
+
+Next day Carteret sent an expedition to two more islands, where
+neither eatables nor water were found. The sailors caught many birds
+in their hands, as they were so tame that they did not fly at the
+approach of man.
+
+All these islands belonged to the Dangerous group, a long chain of low
+islands, clusters of which were the despair of all navigators, for the
+few resources they offered. Carteret thought he recognized Quiros in
+the land discovered, but this place, which is called by the natives
+Tahiti, is situated more to the north.
+
+Sickness, however, increased daily. The adverse winds, but especially
+the damage the ship had sustained, made her progress very slow.
+Carteret thought it necessary to follow the route upon which he was
+most likely to obtain provisions and the needful repairs.
+
+"My intention in the event of my ship being repaired," says Carteret,
+"was to continue my voyage to the south upon the return of a
+favourable season, with a view to new discoveries in that quarter of
+the world. In fact, I had settled in my own mind, if I could find a
+continent where sufficient provisions were procurable, to remain near
+its coast until the sun had passed the Equator, then to gain a distant
+southern latitude and to proceed westward towards the Cape of Good
+Hope, and to return eastward after touching at the Falkland Islands,
+should it be necessary, and thence to proceed quickly to Europe."
+
+These laudable intentions show Carteret to have been a true explorer,
+rather stimulated than intimidated by danger, but it proved impossible
+to carry them into execution.
+
+The trade wind was only met on the 16th, and the weather remained
+detestable. Above all, although Carteret navigated in the
+neighbourhood of Danger Island, discovered in 1765 by Byron, and by
+others, he saw no land.
+
+"We probably were close by land," he says, "which the fog prevented
+our seeing, for in these waters numbers of birds constantly flew round
+the ship. Commodore Byron in his last voyage had passed the northern
+limits of this portion of the ocean, in which the Solomon Islands are
+said to be situated, and as I have been myself beyond the southern
+limit without seeing them, I have good reasons for thinking, that if
+these islands exist they have been badly marked on all the charts."
+
+This last supposition is correct, but the Solomon Islands do exist,
+and Carteret stopped there a few days later without recognizing them.
+The victuals were now all but consumed or tainted, the rigging and the
+sails torn by the tempest, half the crew on the sick list, when a
+fresh alarm for the captain arose. A leak was reported, just below the
+load water-line; it was impossible to stop it, as long as they were in
+the open sea. By unexpected good fortune land was seen on the morrow.
+Needless to say what cries of delight, what acclamations followed this
+discovery. To use Carteret's own comparison, the feelings of surprise
+and comfort experienced by the crew can only be likened to those of a
+criminal, who at the last moment on the scaffold receives a reprieve!
+It was Nitendit Island, already discovered by Mendana.
+
+No sooner was the anchor cast than landing was hurried, in search of
+water supply. The natives were black, with woolly hair, and perfectly
+naked. They appeared upon the shore, but fled again before the boat
+could come up with them.
+
+The leader of the landing-party described the country as wild,
+bristling with mountains and impenetrable forests of trees and shrubs
+reaching to the shore itself, through which ran a fine current of
+fresh water.
+
+The following day, the master was sent in search of an easier
+landing-place, with orders to propitiate the natives, if possible, by
+presents. He was expressly enjoined not to expose himself to danger,
+to return if several pirogues advanced against him, not to leave the
+boat himself, and not to allow more than two men to land at once,
+whilst the remainder held themselves on the defensive.
+
+Carteret, at the same time, sent his ship's boat on shore for water.
+Some natives attacked it with arrows, which fortunately hit no one.
+
+Meantime, the sloop regained the _Swallow_, the master had three
+arrows in his body, and half his crew were so dangerously wounded that
+three sailors and he himself died a few days later.
+
+This is what had happened. Landing the fifth in succession, in a spot
+where he had noticed huts, he entered into friendly traffic with the
+natives. The latter soon increased in numbers, and several large
+pirogues advanced towards his sloop, and he was unable to rejoin it
+until the very moment when the attack commenced. Pursued by the arrows
+of the natives, who waded up to their shoulders into the water, chased
+by pirogues, he only succeeded in escaping after having killed several
+natives and foundered one of their boats.
+
+[Illustration: "Pursued by the arrows of the natives."]
+
+This effort to find a more favourable spot where he might run the
+_Swallow_ ashore, having ended so unfortunately, Carteret heaved his
+ship down where he was, and efforts were made to stop the leak. If the
+carpenter, the only healthy man on board, did not succeed in perfectly
+stopping it, he at least considerably diminished it.
+
+Whilst a fresh landing for water was sought, the fire of the guns was
+directed upon the woods as well as volleys of musketry from the sloop.
+Still the sailors worked for a quarter of an hour, when they were
+attacked by a shower of arrows which grievously wounded one or two in
+the breast. The same measures were necessary each time they fetched
+water.
+
+At this juncture, thirty of the crew became incapable of performing
+their duty. The master died of his wounds. Lieutenant Gower was very
+ill. Carteret himself, attacked by a bilious and inflammatory illness,
+was forced to keep his bed.
+
+These three were the only officers capable of navigating the _Swallow_
+to England, and they were on the point of succumbing.
+
+To stay the ravages of disease, it was necessary to procure provisions
+at all costs, and this was utterly impossible in this spot. Carteret
+weighed anchor on the 17th of August, after calling the island Egmont,
+in honour of the Lord of the Admiralty, and the bay where he had
+anchored, Swallow. Although convinced that it was identical with the
+land named Santa Cruz by the Spaniards, the navigator nevertheless
+followed the prevailing mania of giving new appellations to all the
+places he visited. He then coasted the shore for a short distance, and
+ascertained that the population was large. He had many a crow to pick
+with the natives. These obstacles, and moreover the impossibility of
+procuring provisions, prevented Carteret's reconnoitring the other
+islands of this group, upon which he bestowed the name of Queen
+Charlotte.
+
+[Illustration: Map of Queen Charlotte Islands. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+"The inhabitants of Egmont Isle," he says, "are extremely agile,
+active, and vigorous. They appear to live as well in water as on land,
+for they are continually jumping from their pirogues into the sea. One
+of the arrows which they sent passed through the planks of the boat,
+and dangerously wounded the officer at the poop in the thigh.
+
+"Their arrows are tipped with stone, and we saw no metal of any kind
+in their possession. The country in general is covered with woods and
+mountains and interspersed with a great number of valleys."
+
+On the 18th of August, 1767, Carteret left this group with the
+intention of regaining Great Britain. He fully expected to meet with
+an island on his passage, where he might be more fortunate. And on the
+20th, he actually did so, discovering a little low island, which he
+named Gower, where cocoa-nuts were procurable. Next day he encountered
+Simpson and Carteret Islands, and a group of new islands which he took
+to be the Ohang Java, discovered by Tasman; then successively Sir
+Charles Hardy and Winchelsea Islands, which he did not consider as
+belonging to the Solomon Archipelago, the Island of St. John,
+so-called by Schouten, and finally that of New Britain, which he
+gained on the 28th of August.
+
+Carteret coasted this island, in search of a safe and convenient port,
+and stopped in various bays, where he obtained water, wood, cocoa,
+nutmegs, aloes, sugar-canes, bamboos, and palm-cabbages.
+
+"This cabbage," he says, "is white, crisp, of a substance filled with
+sugar. Eaten raw, the flavour resembles that of a chestnut, and boiled
+it is superior to the best parsnip. We cut it into small strips, and
+boiled it in the broth made from our cakes, and this broth, afterwards
+thickened with oatmeal furnished us with a good meal."
+
+The wood was all alive with pigeons, turtle-doves, parroquets, and
+other unknown birds. The English visited several deserted huts.
+
+If an idea of the civilization of a people can be drawn from their
+dwellings, these islanders were on the lowest rung of the social
+ladder, for their huts were the most miserable Carteret had ever seen.
+
+The commander profited by his stay in this place, by once more
+overhauling the _Swallow_, and attending to the leak, which the
+carpenters doctored as well as they could. The sheathing was greatly
+worn, and the keel quite gnawed away by worms; they coated it with
+pitch and warm tar mixed together.
+
+On the 7th of September, Carteret accomplished the ridiculous ceremony
+of taking possession of the country in the name of George III., he
+then despatched one of his boats upon a reconnoitring expedition,
+which returned with a quantity of cocoa and palm-cabbages, most
+precious provision for the sick on board.
+
+In spite of the fact that the monsoon would soon blow from the east
+for a long time, Carteret, alive to the dilapidated condition of his
+ship, determined to start for Batavia, where he hoped to make up his
+crew, and to repair the _Swallow_.
+
+Upon the 9th September, therefore, he left Carteret harbour, the best
+which he had met with since leaving the Straits of Magellan.
+
+He soon penetrated to a gulf to which Dampier had given the name of St.
+George Bay, and was not long in reconnoitring for a strait which
+separated New Britain and New Ireland. This passage he found and named
+St. George. He describes it in his narrative with a care which should
+certainly have earned for him the thanks of all his contemporary
+navigators. He then followed the coast of New Ireland to its southern
+extremity. Near a little island, which he named Sandwich, Carteret had
+some dealings with the natives.
+
+"These natives," he says "are black, and have woolly hair like negroes,
+but they have not flat noses or large lips. We imagine them to be of
+the same race as the inhabitants of Egmont Island. Like them they are
+entirely naked, if we except some ornaments of shells which they
+attach to their arms and legs. At the same time, they have adopted a
+fashion, without which our fashionable men and women are not supposed
+to be perfectly dressed. They powder their hair or rather the wool on
+their heads white, from which it follows that the fashion of wearing
+powder is probably of greater antiquity and of more extended fashion
+than we would have generally supposed. They are armed with spears and
+large sticks in the shape of clubs, but we perceived neither bows nor
+arrows."
+
+At the south-western extremity of New Ireland Carteret found another
+land, to which he gave the name of New Hanover, and shortly afterwards
+the group of the Duke of Portland.
+
+Although all this portion of the narrative of his voyage, in countries
+unknown before his time, abounds in precious details, Carteret, a far
+more able and zealous navigator than his predecessors Byron and Wallis,
+makes excuses for not having collected more facts.
+
+"The description of the country," he says, "and of its productions and
+inhabitants, would have been far more complete and detailed had I not
+been so weakened and overcome by the illness to which I had succumbed
+through the duties which devolved upon me from want of officers. When
+I could scarcely drag myself along, I was obliged to take watch after
+watch and to share in other labours with my lieutenant, who was also
+in a bad state of health."
+
+After leaving St. George's Strait, the route was westward. Carteret
+discovered several other islands, but illness for several days
+prevented his coming on deck, and therefore he could not determine
+their position. He named them Admiralty Islands, and after two attacks,
+found himself forced to employ fire-arms to repulse the natives.
+
+He afterwards reconnoitred Durour and Matty Islands and the Cuedes,
+whose inhabitants were quite delighted at receiving bits of an iron
+hoop. Carteret affirms, that he might have bought all the productions
+of this country for a few iron instruments. Although they are the
+neighbours of New Guinea, and of the groups they had just explored,
+these natives were not black, but copper coloured. They had very long
+black hair, regular features, and brilliantly white teeth. Of medium
+height, strong and active, they were cheerful and friendly, and came
+on board fearlessly. One of them even asked permission to accompany
+Carteret upon his voyage, and in spite of all the representations of
+his countrymen and even of the captain, he refused to leave the
+_Swallow_. Carteret, meeting with so decided a will, consented, but
+the poor Indian, who had received the name of Joseph Freewill, soon
+faded away and died at Celebes.
+
+On the 29th October, the English reached the north-eastern portion of
+Mindanao. Always on the look-out for fresh water and provisions,
+Carteret in vain looked for the bay which Dampier had spoken of as
+abounding in game. A little farther off he found a watering-place, but
+the hostile demonstrations of the inhabitants forced him to re-embark.
+
+After leaving Mindanao, the captain sailed for the Straits of Macassar,
+between the islands of Borneo and Celebes. They entered it on the 14th
+of November. The vessel then proceeded with so much difficulty that
+she only accomplished twenty-eight leagues in fifteen days.
+
+"Ill," he says, "weakened, dying, tortured by the sight of lands which
+we could not reach, exposed to tempests which we found it impossible
+to overcome, we were attacked by a pirate!"
+
+The latter, hoping to find the English crew asleep, attacked the
+_Swallow_ in the middle of the night. But far from allowing themselves
+to be cowed by this new danger, the sailors defended themselves with
+so much courage and skill, that they succeeded in foundering the Malay
+prah.
+
+[Illustration: A struggle between the _Swallow_ and a Malay prah.]
+
+On the 12th of December Carteret sorrowfully perceived that the
+western monsoon had commenced. The _Swallow_ was in no condition to
+struggle against this wind and current to reach Batavia by the west.
+He must then content himself with gaining Macassar, then the principal
+colony of the Dutch in the Celebes Islands.
+
+When the English arrived, it was thirty-five weeks since they left the
+Straits of Magellan.
+
+Anchor was scarcely cast, when a Dutchman, sent by the governor, came
+on board the _Swallow_. He appeared much alarmed on finding that the
+vessel belonged to the English marine service. In the morning,
+therefore, when Carteret sent his lieutenant, Mr. Gower, to ask for
+access to the port in order to secure provisions for his dying crew,
+and to repair his dilapidated ship, and await the return of the
+monsoon, not only could he not obtain permission to land, but the
+Dutch hastened to collect their forces and arm their vessels. Finally,
+after five hours, the governor's reply was brought on board. It was a
+refusal couched in terms as little polite as they were equivocal. The
+English were simultaneously forbidden to land at any port under Dutch
+government.
+
+All Carteret's representations, his remarks upon the inhumanity of the
+refusal, even his hostile demonstrations, had no other result than the
+sale of a few provisions, and permission to proceed to a small
+neighbouring bay.
+
+He would find there, he was told, certain shelter from the monsoon,
+and might set up a hospital for his sick, that indeed he could procure
+more plentiful provisions there than in Macassar, from whence they
+would send him all that he could need. Fearing death by starvation and
+foundering, it was necessary to overlook these exactions, and Carteret
+proceeded to the roadstead of Bonthain.
+
+There the sick, installed in a house, found themselves prohibited from
+going more than thirty roods from their hospital.
+
+They were kept under guard, and could not communicate with the natives.
+Lastly they were forbidden to buy anything excepting through the
+agency of the Dutch soldiers, who strangely abused their power, often
+making more than a thousand per cent. profit. All the complaints of
+the English were useless. They were forced to submit during their stay,
+to a surveillance to the last degree humiliating. It was only on the
+22nd of May, 1768, on the return of the monsoon, that Captain Carteret
+was able to leave Bonthain, after a long series of annoyances,
+vexations, and alarms, which it is impossible to give in detail and
+which had sorely tried his patience.
+
+"Celebes," he says, "is the key to the Moluccas, or Spice Islands,
+which are necessarily under the power of the people who are masters of
+this island. The town of Macassar is built upon a promontory, and is
+watered by one or two rivers which cross it or flow in its vicinity.
+The ground is even and beautiful in appearance. There are many
+plantations and cocoa-nut woods, interspersed with houses, which
+convey the idea that it is well populated.
+
+"At Bonthain the beef is excellent, but it is difficult to procure
+enough of it to feed a fleet. Fowls, and as much rice and fruits as
+can be wished, are procurable. The woods abound with wild pigs, which
+are to be had cheap, because the natives, being Mohamedans, do not eat
+them."
+
+These details, however incomplete, had great interest at the time they
+were collected, and we go so far as to believe, that even now, some
+hundred years since they were first written, they yet contain a
+certain amount of truth. No incident marked the voyage to Batavia.
+After several delays, caused by the desire of the Dutch Company to
+make Carteret give them a testimonial as to the treatment he had met
+with from the government of Macassar, and which he steadily refused,
+Carteret at last obtained permission to repair his vessel.
+
+On the 15th of September, the _Swallow_, partially refitted, set sail.
+She was reinforced with a supplementary number of English sailors,
+without which it would have been impossible to regain Europe. Eighty
+of her original crew were dead, and eighty more were so reduced that
+seven of their number died before they reached the Cape.
+
+After a stay in this port, a most salutary one for the crew, which
+lasted until the 6th of January, 1769, Carteret set out once more, and
+a little beyond Ascension Island, at which he had touched, he met a
+French vessel. It was the frigate, _La Boudeuse_, with which
+Bougainville had just been round the world.
+
+On the 20th of March the _Swallow_ anchored in Spithead roadstead,
+after thirty-one months of a voyage as painful as it had been
+dangerous.
+
+All Carteret's nautical ability, all his _sang-froid_, all his
+enthusiasm were needed to save so inefficient a vessel from
+destruction, and to make important discoveries, under such conditions.
+If the perils of the voyage, add lustre to his renown, the shame of
+such a miserable equipment falls upon the English Admiralty, who,
+despising the representations of an able captain, risked his life and
+the lives of his crew upon so long a voyage.
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+Bougainville--A notary's son metamorphosed--Colonization of the
+Malouine Islands--Buenos Ayres and Rio Janeiro--The Malouines
+relinquished to the Spaniards--Hydrography of the Strait of Magellan--
+The Pecherais--The Quatre Facardius--Tahiti--Incidents of the stay
+there--Productions of the country and manners of the inhabitants--
+Samoa Islands--The Land of the Holy Spirit or the New Hebrides--The
+Louisiade--The Anchorite Isles--New Guinea--Boutan--From Batavia to St.
+Malo.
+
+
+Whilst Wallis completed his voyage round the world, and Carteret
+continued his long and hazardous circumnavigation, a fresh expedition
+was organized for the purpose of prosecuting new discoveries in the
+Southern Seas.
+
+Under the old regime, when all was arbitrary, titles, rank, and places
+were obtained by interest. It was therefore not surprising that a
+military officer, who left the army scarcely four years before with
+the rank of colonel, to enter the navy as a captain, should obtain
+this important command.
+
+Strangely enough, this singular measure was amply justified, thanks to
+the talents possessed by the favoured recipient.
+
+Louis Antoine de Bougainville was born at Paris, on the 13th of
+November, 1729. The son of a notary, he was destined for the bar, and
+was already an advocate. But having no taste for his father's
+profession, he devoted himself to the sciences, and published a
+Treatise on the Integral Calculus, whilst he obtained a commission in
+the Black Musqueteers.
+
+Of the three careers he thus entered upon, he entirely abandoned the
+two first, slightly neglected the third, for the sake of a
+fourth--diplomacy, and finally left it entirely for a fifth--the naval
+service. He was destined to die a member of the senate after a sixth
+metamorphosis.
+
+[Illustration: Portrait of Bougainville. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+First aide-de-camp to Chevret, then Secretary of the Embassy in London,
+where he was made a member of the Royal Society, he left Brest in 1756,
+with the rank of captain of Dragoons, to rejoin Montcalm in Canada.
+Becoming aide-de-camp to this general, he distinguished himself on
+various occasions, and obtained the confidence of his chief, who sent
+him to France to ask for reinforcements.
+
+That unhappy country was just then overwhelmed with reverses in Europe,
+and had need of all her resources. Therefore, when young Bougainville
+entered upon the object of his mission to M. de Choiseul, the minister
+answered brusquely,--
+
+"When the house is on fire, one does not worry oneself about the
+stables!"
+
+"At least," replied Bougainville, "no one can say that you speak like
+a horse!"
+
+This sally was too witty and too stinging to conciliate the minister.
+Ultimately Madame de Pompadour, who appreciated witty people,
+introduced Bougainville to the king, and although he did not succeed
+in obtaining much for his general, he gained a colonelcy, and the
+order of St. Louis for himself, although he had only seen seven years'
+service. Returning to Canada he was anxious to justify Louis XIV.'s
+confidence, and distinguished himself in various matters. After the
+loss of the colony he served in Germany under M. de
+Choiseul-Stainville.
+
+His military career was cut short by the peace of 1763. His active
+spirit and love of movement rebelled against a garrison life. He
+conceived the strange idea of colonizing the Falkland Islands in the
+extreme south of South America, and of conveying there free of expense
+the emigrants from Canada who had settled in France to escape the
+tyrannous yoke of England. Carried away by this idea, he addressed
+himself to certain privateers at St. Malo, who, from the commencement
+of the century, had been in the habit of visiting the group, and who
+had named them Malouine Islands.
+
+Having gained their confidence, Bougainville brought the advantages
+(however problematical) of this colony to the minister's notice,
+maintaining that the fortunate situation of the island, would secure a
+good resting-place for ships going to the Southern Seas. Having high
+interest, he obtained the authority he desired, and received his
+nomination as ship-captain.
+
+It was the year 1763. There is little reason to suppose, that marine
+officers, who had passed all the grades of the service, looked with
+gratification upon an appointment which no past event justified. But
+that mattered little to the Minister of Marine, M. de
+Choiseul-Stainville. Bougainville had served under him, and was far
+too grand a personage to trouble himself about the grumbling of the
+ship's officers.
+
+Bougainville having brought his uncle and cousin, MM. de Nerville and
+d'Arboulin, to look favourably upon his venture, caused the _Eagle_ of
+twenty guns, and the _Sphinx_ of twelve, to be built at St. Malo,
+under the auspices of M. Guzot Duclos. Upon these he embarked several
+Canadian families.
+
+Leaving St. Malo on the 15th of September, 1763, he rested at St.
+Catherine's Island, on the coast of Brazil, and at Montevideo, where
+he took horses and cattle, and landed at the Malouines in a large bay,
+which appeared to him wholly suited to his purpose, but he was not
+long in discovering that what had been taken by preceding navigators
+for woods of moderate height, were only reeds. Not a tree, not a shrub
+grew in the islands. Fortunately an excellent turf did for fuel in
+their stead, whilst fish and game offered good resources.
+
+The colony consisted at first of only twenty-nine persons, for whom
+huts were built and also a provision warehouse. At the same time a
+fort, capable of holding fourteen guns, was planned and commenced. M.
+de Nerville agreed to remain at the head of the establishment, whilst
+Bougainville returned to France on the 5th of April. There he
+recruited some more colonists, and took a considerable cargo of
+provisions of every kind, which he disembarked on the 5th of January,
+1765. He then went to the Strait of Magellan in search of a cargo of
+wood, and having, as we have already narrated, met Commodore Byron's
+squadron, followed it to Port Famine.
+
+There he took in more than ten thousand saplings of different growths,
+which he intended to transport to the Malouines. When he left the
+group on the 27th of April following, the colony already numbered
+eighty persons, comprising a staff paid by the king. Towards the end
+of 1765, the same two vessels were sent back with provisions and new
+colonists.
+
+The colony was beginning to make a show, when the English settled
+themselves in Port Egmont, reconnoitred by Byron. At the same time
+Captain Macbride attempted to obtain possession of the colony, on the
+ground that the land belonged to the English king, although Byron had
+not recognized the Malouines in 1765, and the French had then been
+settled there two years.
+
+In the meantime Spain laid claim to it in her turn, as a dependency of
+Southern America. England and France were equally adverse to a breach
+of the peace, for the sake of this archipelago, which was of so little
+commercial value, and Bougainville was forced to relinquish his
+undertaking on condition that the Spanish Government indemnified him
+for his expenses. In addition, he was ordered by the French Government
+to facilitate the restoration of the Malouines to the Spanish
+Commissioners.
+
+This foolish attempt at colonization was the origin and groundwork of
+Bougainville's good fortune, for in order to make use of the last
+equipment, the minister ordered Bougainville to return by the South
+Sea, and to make discoveries.
+
+In the early days of November, 1766, Bougainville repaired to Nantes,
+where his second in command, M. Duclos-Guiyot, captain of the
+fire-ship, and an able and veteran sailor, who grew grey in the
+inferior rank because he was not noble, superintended the equipment of
+the frigate _La Boudeuse_, of twenty-six guns.
+
+Bougainville left the roadstead of Minden at the mouth of the Loire,
+on the 15th of November, for the La Plata river, where he hoped to
+find two Spanish vessels, the _Esmeralda_ and the _Liebre_. But
+scarcely had the _Boudeuse_ gained the open sea when a furious tempest
+arose. The frigate, the rigging of which was new, sustained such
+serious damages that it was necessary to put for repairs into Brest,
+which she entered on the 21st November. This experience sufficed to
+convince the captain that the _Boudeuse_ was but little fitted for the
+voyage he had before him. He therefore had the masts shortened, and
+changed his artillery for less heavy pieces, but in spite of these
+modifications, the _Boudeuse_ was not fit for the heavy seas and
+storms of Cape Horn. However, the rendezvous with the Spaniards was
+arranged, and Bougainville was obliged to put to sea. The staff of the
+frigate consisted of eleven officers and three volunteers, among whom
+was the Prince of Nassau-Sieghen. The crew comprised 203 sailors, boys,
+and servants.
+
+As far as La Plata the sea was calm enough to allow of Bougainville's
+making many observations on the currents, a frequent source of the
+errors made by navigators in their reckonings.
+
+On the 31st of January, _La Boudeuse_ anchored in Montevideo Bay,
+where the two Spanish frigates had been awaiting her for a month,
+under the command of Don Philippe Pelicis Puente.
+
+The long stay Bougainville made in this part, and also at Buenos Ayres,
+enabled him to collect facts about the city, and the manners of the
+inhabitants, which are too curious to be passed over in silence.
+Buenos Ayres appeared to them too large for its population, which
+amounted only to 20,000, the reason being that the houses are of only
+one story, and have large courts or gardens. Not only has this town no
+fort, but it has not even a jetty. Thus ships are forced to discharge
+their cargoes on to lighters, which convey them to the little river,
+where carts come to take the bales and convey them to the town.
+
+The number of religious communities, both male and female, in Buenos
+Ayres, adds to the originality of its character.
+
+Bougainville says, "The year is full of Saint days, which are
+celebrated by processions and fireworks. Religious ceremonies supply
+the place of theatres. The Jesuits incite the women to greater
+austerity in their piety than any other order. Attached to their
+convent they have an institution intitled, _Casa de los egericios de
+las mugeres_, that is, 'house for the devotion of women.' Women and
+girls, without the permission of husbands or fathers, enter the
+retreat for twelve days, to increase their sanctity."
+
+They were lodged and boarded at the expense of the company. No man
+ever set foot in this sanctuary unless in the cowl of St. Ignatius.
+Servants even of the female sex were not allowed to accompany their
+mistresses. The devotional services consisted of meditation, prayer,
+catechizings, confession, and flagellation. "We were shown the stains
+on the walls of the chapel, made by the blood which flowed under the
+hands of these Magdalens as they did penance."
+
+The environs of the town were well cultivated and brightened by a
+large number of country houses named "quentas," but scarcely two or at
+most three leagues from Buenos Ayres were immense plains, with
+scarcely a single undulation, given up to bulls and horses, which are
+almost the only inhabitants. Bougainville says,--
+
+"These animals were so abundant, that travellers, when they needed
+food, would kill a bull, consume what they could eat, and leave the
+rest to be devoured by wild dogs and tigers."
+
+The Spaniards had not yet succeeded in subduing the Indian tribes on
+the two shores of the La Plata River. They were called "Indios
+bravos."
+
+"They are of medium height, very ugly, and almost all infected with
+the itch. Their complexions are very dark, and the grease with which
+they perpetually rub themselves, makes them even blacker. Their sole
+garment is the skin of the roe-buck, which reaches to the heels, and
+in which they wrap themselves.
+
+"These Indians pass their lives on horseback, at least near the
+Spanish settlement. They occasionally come there with their wives to
+buy eau de cologne, and they never cease drinking until drunkenness
+literally deprives them of the power to move. Sometimes they assemble
+in droves of two or three hundred to carry off the cattle from the
+Spanish lands, or to attack the caravans of travellers.
+
+"They pillaged, massacred, and carried off slaves. It was an evil
+without remedy. How was it possible to subdue a wandering nation in a
+vast and uncultivated country where it was difficult even to meet with
+them?
+
+"Commerce was far from flourishing, as no European merchandise was
+allowed to pass by land to Peru or Chili."
+
+Nevertheless Bougainville saw a vessel leaving Buenos Ayres carrying a
+million piastres, "And if," adds he, "all the inhabitants of this
+country had the traffic of their hides in Europe, that of itself would
+be enough to enrich them."
+
+The anchorage of Montevideo was safe, although several times they were
+visited by "pamperos," a scourge of the South-West, accompanied by
+violent tempests. The town offered nothing of interest. The environs
+are so uncultivated that it is necessary to import flour, biscuits,
+and everything necessary for the boats. But fruits, such as figs,
+peaches, apples, lemons, &c., are plentiful, as well as the same
+quantity of butcher's meat as in the rest of the country.
+
+These documents, which are a hundred years old, are curious when
+compared with those furnished by contemporary navigators, especially
+by M. Emile Daireaux, in his work on La Plata. In many respects this
+picture is still correct, but there are other details (such for
+instance as regards instruction, of which Bougainville could not speak,
+as it did not exist) in which it has made immense progress. When the
+victuals, the provision of water, and the cattle were embarked, the
+three vessels set sail on the 28th of February, 1767, for the
+Malouines. The voyage was not fortunate. Variable winds, heavy weather,
+and a running sea, caused much damage to the _Boudeuse_. On the 23rd
+of March she cast anchor in French Bay, where she was joined on the
+morrow by the two Spanish vessels, which had been much tried by the
+tempest.
+
+Upon the 1st of April the restitution of the colony to the Spaniards
+was solemnized. Very few French profited by their king's permission to
+remain in the Malouines; almost all preferred to embark upon the
+Spanish frigates upon their leaving Montevideo. As for Bougainville,
+he was forced to await the provisions, which the fly-boat _Etoile_ was
+to bring him, and which was to accompany him upon his voyage round the
+world.
+
+However, the months of March, April, and May passed, and no _Etoile_
+appeared. It was impossible to cross the Pacific with only six months'
+provisions, which was all the _Boudeuse_ carried.
+
+Bougainville decided at last, on the 2nd of June, to reach Rio Janeiro,
+which he had mentioned to M. de la Gerandais, the commander of the
+_Etoile_ as a rendezvous, should unforeseen circumstances prevent his
+reaching the Malouines.
+
+The crossing was made with such favourable weather, that only eighteen
+days were needed to reach the Portuguese Colony. The _Etoile_, which
+had been awaiting her for four days, had left France later than was
+expected. She had been forced to seek shelter from the tempest at
+Montevideo, from whence, following her instructions she gained Rio.
+
+Well received by the Count of Acunha, Viceroy of Brazil, the French
+had opportunities of seeing the comedies of Metastasio given at the
+opera by a Mulatto troupe, and of hearing the works of the great
+Italian masters executed by a bad orchestra, conducted by a deformed
+abbe in ecclesiastical dress.
+
+But the cordial relations with the viceroy were not lasting.
+Bougainville, who with the viceroy's permission had made some purchase,
+found the delivery of it refused for no reason. He was forbidden to
+take wood he needed from the royal timber-yard, although he had
+concluded a contract for it, and lastly, he was prevented from lodging
+with his staff, during the repairs of the _Boudeuse_, in a house near
+the town, placed at his disposal by a friend. To avoid altercation,
+Bougainville hurried the preparations for departure.
+
+Before leaving the capital of Brazil, the French commander entered
+into various details of the beauty of the port, and the picturesque
+nature of its surroundings, and finished by a very curious digression
+upon the prodigious riches of the country, of which the port was the
+emporium.
+
+"The mines called 'general,'" he says, "are the nearest to the town,
+although they are seventy-five leagues away from it. They yield the
+king a yearly revenue by his right to a fifth share of at least a
+hundred and twelve arobas of gold. In 1762, they brought him in a
+hundred and nineteen. Under the captaincy of the 'general' mines,
+those of the 'Rio des Morts,' Sabara, and Sero Frio were included--the
+last named, in addition to all the gold it produces, yields all the
+diamonds which come from the Brazils. No precious stones, except
+diamonds, are contraband. They belonged to the speculators, who were
+obliged to keep an exact account of the diamonds they find and to
+restore them to the possession of an intendant named by the king for
+this purpose. He immediately places them in a casket bound with iron,
+and fastened with three locks. He retains one key, the king has
+another, and the 'Provedor de hacienda reale' the third. This casket
+is enclosed in a second, stamped with the seals of the three persons
+named, and containing the three keys of the smaller one."
+
+But in spite of all these precautions, and the severe punishment
+visited upon diamond robberies, an enormous contraband trade was
+carried on. It was, however, not the only source of revenue; and
+Bougainville calculated, that deducting the maintenance of troops, the
+pay of the civil officers, and all the expenses of the administration,
+the King of Portugal drew no less than ten million francs from the
+Brazils.
+
+From Rio to Montevideo no incident occurred, but upon the Plata,
+during a storm, the _Etoile_ was run down by a Spanish vessel, which
+broke her bowsprit, her beak head, and much of her rigging. The
+damages and the shock increased the leak of the ship, and forced her
+to return to Encenada de Baragan, where repairs were more easily
+managed than at Montevideo. It was impossible therefore to leave the
+river until the 14th of November.
+
+[Illustration: New Zealand. Grave par E. Morieu.]
+
+Thirteen days later, both ships came in sight of Virgin Cape at the
+entrance to the Strait of Magellan, which they hastened to enter.
+
+Possession Bay, the first they met with, is a large space, open to all
+winds and offering very bad anchorage. From Virgin Cape to Orange Cape
+is about fifteen leagues, and the strait is throughout seven or eight
+leagues wide. The first narrow entrance was easily passed, and anchor
+cast in Boucault Bay, where half a score of officers and men landed.
+
+They soon made acquaintance with the Patagonians, and exchanged a few
+trifles, precious to the natives, for swansdown and gunaco skins.
+
+The inhabitants were tall, but none of them reached six feet.
+
+"What struck me as gigantic in their proportions," says Bougainville,
+"was their enormous breadth of shoulder, the size of their heads, and
+the thickness of their limbs. They are robust and well-nourished,
+their muscles are sinewy, their flesh firm, and in fact they are men
+who, having lived in the open air and drawn their nourishment from
+juicy aliments, have reached their highest point of development."
+
+The distance from the first to the second opening may have been six or
+seven leagues, and was passed without accident. This opening is only
+one and a half leagues in width, and four in length. In this part of
+the strait the ships easily reconnoitred St. Bartholomew and St.
+Elizabeth Islands.
+
+At the latter the French landed. They found neither wood nor water. It
+was an absolutely desert land.
+
+Leaving this place, the American side of the strait is amply furnished
+with wood. But although the first advances had been fortunate,
+Bougainville was to find plenty to try his patience.
+
+The distinctive character of the climate lies in the rapid atmospheric
+changes, which succeeded each other so quickly that it is quite
+impossible to forecast their sudden and dangerous variations. Hence
+the damages which it is impossible to foresee, which retard the
+passage of the ships, even if they do not force them to seek shelter
+for repairs.
+
+Guyot-Duclos Bay provides an excellent anchorage, with six or eight
+fathoms of water and sound bottom. Bougainville remained there long
+enough to fill several casks, and endeavoured to procure fresh meat,
+but he only met with a few wild animals. St. Anne's point was reached.
+At that place Sarmiento had founded the colony of Philippeville in
+1581.
+
+In a preceding volume we have narrated the fearful catastrophe which
+procured the name of Port Famine for this spot.
+
+The French reconnoitred several bays, capes, and harbours at which
+they touched. They were Bougainville Bay, where the _Etoile_ was
+repainted, Port Beau Bassin, Cormadiere Bay, off the coast of Tierra
+del Fuego, and Cape Forward, which forms the most southerly point of
+the strait and of Patagonia, Cascade Bay in Tierra del Fuego, the
+safety, easy anchorage, and facilities for procuring water and wood of
+which, render it a most desirable haven for navigators.
+
+The various ports which Bougainville discovered are particularly
+valuable, as they offer favourable points for doubling Cape Forward,
+one of the most difficult routes for sailors on account of the violent
+and contrary winds which prevail there.
+
+The year 1768 opened for the adventurers in Fortescue Bay, below which
+is Port Galant, the plan of which had been taken with great exactitude
+by M. de Gennes. Detestable weather, of which the worst winter in
+Paris can give no idea, detained the French expedition for three weeks.
+It was visited by a band of Pecheians, the inhabitants of Tierra del
+Fuego, who boarded the ship.
+
+"We made them sing," says the narrative, "dance, listen to instruments,
+and above all eat. Everything was pleasant to them, bread, salt meat,
+tallow, they devoured everything that was given them. They showed no
+surprise either at the sight of the vessels or that of the various
+objects which were shown to them, no doubt because to feel surprise at
+works of art, one must have elementary ideas. These men, akin to
+brutes, treated _chef-d'oeuvres_ of human industry as they treated the
+laws and phenomena of nature.
+
+"These savages are small, ugly, thin, and smell abominably. They are
+all but naked, having only clothing of seal-skin too small to cover
+them.
+
+"These women are hideous, and the men appear to care little for them.
+They live all together, men and women and children, in one hut, in the
+centre of which a fire is lighted.
+
+"Their food is chiefly shell-fish. Still they have dogs and snares set
+with whalebone. On the whole they appear to be a good sort of people,
+but so weak that one overlooks their faults.
+
+"Of all the savages I have met with, the Pecherais are the most
+destitute."
+
+[Illustration: "We made them sing."]
+
+A painful event occurred whilst the crew were in this port. A child of
+about twelve years of age came on board, and glass beads and bits of
+glass were given to it, with no suspicion of the use to which they
+would be put. It would appear that these savages are in the habit of
+stuffing pieces of talc down their throats as talismans. This boy no
+doubt meant to do the same with the glass, for when they landed they
+found him vomiting violently and spitting blood. His throat and gums
+were lacerated and bleeding. In spite of the enchantments and violent
+rubbings of a juggler, or perhaps on account of this not too effective
+treatment, the poor child suffered dreadfully, and died shortly
+afterwards. This was the signal for a precipitate flight of the
+Pecherais. They no doubt entertained a fear that the French had cast a
+spell upon them, and that they would all die in a similar manner.
+
+On the 16th of January, in endeavouring to reach Rupert Isle, the
+_Boudeuse_ was driven by the currents half a cable's length from the
+shore. The anchor which was then heaved, gave way, and without the
+least land-breeze the vessel stranded.
+
+It was necessary to regain Galant Harbour. It was just time, for next
+day a fearful storm was raging.
+
+"After experiencing constantly adverse and variable winds for
+twenty-six days in Port Galant, thirty-six hours favourable breeze,
+for which we had not dared to hope, sufficed to take us into the
+Pacific Ocean. This I believe to be a solitary instance of a voyage
+without anchorage from Port Galant to the narrow channel. I estimate
+the entire length of this strait, from Virgin Cape to Cape Peliers, at
+about 114 leagues.
+
+"We took fifty-two days to accomplish it. In spite of the difficulties
+we met with in the passage of the Straits of Magellan" (and in this
+Bougainville entirely agrees with Byron), "I should advise this route,
+in preference to that by Cape Horn from September to the end of March.
+During the remaining months of the year I should prefer the open sea.
+
+"Contrary winds and heavy seas are not dangerous, whilst it is not
+wise to grope one's way between two coasts. One is sure to be detained
+for some time in the strait, but this delay is not time wholly lost.
+One meets with water in abundance, wood and shell-fish, and
+occasionally very good fish. And I am decidedly of opinion that a crew
+reaching the Pacific by doubling Cape Horn suffers more from the
+ravages of scurvy than that which proceeds by the Straits of
+Magellan."
+
+Bougainville's opinion has met with many opposers up to the present
+time, and the route which he lauds so highly has been almost abandoned
+by navigators. One strong reason for which is that steam has
+completely transformed maritime experience, and entirely changed
+nautical science.
+
+Scarcely had he entered the Southern Sea, when Bougainville, to his
+intense surprise, found the winds southerly. He was therefore obliged
+to relinquish his intention of reaching Juan Fernandez.
+
+Bougainville had agreed with M. de la Giraudais, captain of the
+_Etoile_, that if a larger stretch of sea was discovered, the two
+vessels should separate, but not lose sight of each other, and that
+every evening the bugle should recall them within half a league of
+each other, so that, in the event of the _Boudeuse_ encountering
+danger, the _Etoile_ might avoid it.
+
+Bougainville for some time sought Easter Island in vain. At last he
+fell in during the month of March with the lands and islands
+erroneously marked upon M. Bellin's chart as Quiros Islands. On the
+22nd of the same month he met with four islets, to which he gave the
+name of Quatre Facardins, which belonged to the Dangerous group, a set
+of madreporic islets, low and damp, which all navigators who have
+visited the Pacific Ocean by way of the Straits of Magellan appear to
+have noticed.
+
+A little further discovery was made, of a fertile island inhabited by
+entirely naked savages, who were armed with long spears, which they
+brandished with menacing gestures, and thus it obtained the name of
+Lancers Island.
+
+[Illustration: Lancer's Island.]
+
+We need not refer to what we have already repeatedly said of the
+nature of these islands, the difficulty of access to them, their wild
+and inhospitable inhabitants. Cook calls this very Lancers Island,
+Thrum Cape, and the island of La Harpe, which Bougainville found on
+the 24th, is identical with Cook's Bow Island.
+
+The captain, knowing that Roggewein had nearly perished in these
+latitudes, and thinking the interest of their exploration not worth
+the risk to be run, proceeded southward and soon lost sight of this
+immense archipelago, which extends in length 500 leagues, and contains
+at least sixty islands or groups.
+
+Upon the 2nd of April Bougainville perceived a high and steep mountain,
+to which he gave the name of La Boudeuse. It was Maitea Island,
+already called La Dezana by Quiros. On the 4th at sunrise the vessel
+reached Tahiti, a long island consisting of two peninsulas, united by
+a tongue of land no more than a mile in width.
+
+More than 100 pirogues hastened to surround the two vessels. They were
+laden with cocoa-nuts and many delicious fruits which were readily
+exchanged for all sorts of trifles.
+
+When night fell, the shore was illuminated by a thousand fires, to
+which the crew responded by throwing rockets.
+
+"The appearance of this shore," says Bougainville, "raised like an
+amphitheatre, offered a most attractive picture. Although the
+mountains are high, the land nowhere shows its nakedness, being
+covered with wood. We could scarcely credit our sight, when we
+perceived a peak, covered with trees, which rose above the level of
+the mountains in the southern portion of the island. It appeared only
+thirty fathoms in diameter, and decreased in size at its summit. At a
+distance it might have been taken for an immense pyramid, adorned with
+foliage by a clever decorator. The least elevated portions of the
+country are intersected by fields and groves. And the entire length of
+the coast, upon the shore below the higher level, is a stretch of low
+land, unbroken and covered by plantations. There, amid the bananas,
+cocoa-nut and other fruit-trees we saw the huts of the natives."
+
+The whole of the morrow was spent in barter. The natives, in addition
+to fruits, offered fowls, pigeons, fishing instruments, working
+implements, stuffs, and shells, for which they asked nails and
+earrings.
+
+Upon the morning of the 6th, after three days devoted to tacking about
+and reconnoitring the coast in search of a roadstead, Bougainville
+decided to cast anchor in the bay he had seen the first day of his
+arrival.
+
+"The number of pirogues round our vessels," he says, "was so great,
+that we had immense trouble in making way through the crowd and noise.
+All approached crying, 'Tayo,' _friend_, and offering a thousand marks
+of friendship. The pirogues were full of women, who might vie with
+most Europeans in pleasant features, and who certainly excelled them
+in beauty of form."
+
+Bougainville's cook managed to escape, in spite of all prohibitions,
+and gained the shore. But he had no sooner landed, than he was
+surrounded by a vast crowd, who entirely undressed him to investigate
+his body. Not knowing what they were going to do with him, he thought
+himself lost, when the natives restored his clothes, and conducted him
+to the vessel more dead than alive. Bougainville wished to reprimand
+him, but the poor fellow assured him, that however he might threaten
+him, he could never equal the terrors of his visit on shore.
+
+As soon as the ship could heave to, Bougainville landed with some of
+his officers to reconnoitre the watering-place. An enormous crowd
+immediately surrounded him, and examined him with great curiosity, all
+the time crying "Tayo! Tayo!" One of the natives received them in his
+house, and served them with fruits, grilled fish, and water. As they
+regained the shore, a native of fine appearance, lying under a tree,
+offered them a share of the shade.
+
+"We accepted it," says Bougainville, "and the man at once bent towards
+us, and in a gentle way, sung, to the sound of a flute which another
+Indian blew with his nose, a song which was no doubt anacreontic. It
+was a charming scene, worthy of the pencil of Boucher. Four natives
+came with great confidence to sup and sleep on board. We had the flute,
+bassoon, and violin played for them, and treated them to fireworks
+composed of rockets and serpents. This display excited both surprise
+and fear."
+
+Before giving further extracts from Bougainville's narrative, it
+appears _apropos_ to warn the reader not to accept these descriptions
+_au pied de la lettre_. The fertile imagination of the narrator
+embellished everything. Not content with the ravishing scenes under
+his eyes, the picturesque reality is not enough for him, and he adds
+new delights to the picture, which only overload it. He does this
+almost unconsciously. None the less, his descriptions should be
+received with great caution. We find a strange example of this
+tendency of the age, in the narrative of Cook's second voyage. Mr.
+Hodges, the painter who was attached to the expedition, wishing to
+reproduce the disembarkation of the English on the island of
+Middleburgh, paints personages who have not the smallest resemblance
+to the dwellers in the ocean regions, and whose togas give them the
+appearance of being contemporaries of Caesar or of Augustus. Yet he
+had the originals before his eyes, and nothing could have been easier
+to him than to depict the scene as it really was.
+
+We know better how to respect truth in these days. No additions, no
+embellishments are found in the narratives of _our_ navigators. And if
+sometimes they prove but dry accounts, which give little pleasure to
+the general public, they are sure to contain the elements of earnest
+study for the scientific man, and the basis of works for the
+advancement of science.
+
+With this preamble, let us follow the narrator.
+
+Bougainville established his sick and his water-casks upon the shore
+of a small river which ran at the bottom of the bay, under a guard for
+their security. These precautions were not taken without arousing the
+susceptibility and distrust of the natives. They had no objection to
+seeing the strangers walk about their island all day, but they
+expected them to return on board at night. Bougainville persisted, and
+at last he was obliged to fix the length of his stay.
+
+At this juncture, harmony was restored. A large shed was prepared for
+the sufferers from scurvy, in number thirty-four, and for their guard,
+which consisted of thirty men. The shed was closed on all sides and
+only one opening left, to which the natives crowded with the wares
+they wished to exchange. The only trouble they had was in keeping an
+eye upon everything that was brought on shore, for "there are no more
+adroit sharpers in Europe than these folks." Following a laudable
+custom, now becoming general, Bougainville presented the chief of this
+settlement with a pair of turkeys, and ducks and drakes, and then
+cleared a piece of land, where he sowed corn, wheat, rice, maize,
+onions, &c.
+
+On the 10th, a native was killed by a gunshot. All Bougainville's
+inquiries failed to find out the perpetrator of this abominable
+assassination. Apparently the natives thought the victim in the wrong,
+for they continued to frequent the market with their former confidence.
+
+The captain, however, knew that the harbour was not well-sheltered,
+and the bottom was entirely coral.
+
+On the 12th, during a storm of wind, the _Boudeuse_, whose anchor
+cable had been cut by the coral, caused great injuries to the _Etoile_,
+upon which she was driven. Whilst all on board were busily occupied in
+repairing these injuries, and a boat had been despatched in search of
+a second passage, by means of which the ships might have left with any
+wind, Bougainville learned that three natives had been killed or
+wounded in their cabins by bayonets, and that owing to the general
+alarm all the inhabitants had hurried to the interior.
+
+In spite of the risk run by his ships, the captain at once landed, and
+put the supposed perpetrators of this outrage (which might have
+brought the entire population upon the French) into irons. Thanks to
+these rigorous measures the natives calmed down, and the night passed
+without incident.
+
+Still, Bougainville's worst apprehensions were not upon this score. He
+returned on board as soon as possible. But for a breeze which
+opportunely sprang up, both vessels would have been driven on shore by
+a strong squall, accompanied by a swell and thunder. The anchor cables
+broke, and the vessels had a narrow escape of striking on the breakers,
+where they must speedily have been demolished. Fortunately the
+_Etoile_ was able to gain the open, and was soon followed by the
+_Boudeuse_, leaving in this foreign roadstead six anchors, which might
+have been of great use during the rest of the voyage.
+
+So soon as they perceived the approaching departure of the French, the
+natives came in crowds with provisions of every variety. One of them,
+named Aotourou, asked, and finally obtained, permission to accompany
+Bougainville on his voyage. After his arrival in Europe, Aotourou
+lived eleven months in Paris, where he was received with cordiality
+and welcome in the highest society. In 1770, when he returned to his
+native land, the government took an opportunity of conveying him to
+the Isle of France. He was to return to Tahiti as soon as the weather
+permitted, but he died in the island without having been able to
+convey to his land the useful implements, grains, and cattle, which
+had been given to him by the French Government.
+
+Tahiti, which was named Nouvelle Cythere by Bougainville, on account
+of the beauty of the women, is the largest of the Society's group.
+Although it was visited, as we have already narrated, by Wallis, we
+will give a little information which we owe to Bougainville.
+
+The principal productions were cocoas, bananas, bread fruits, yams,
+sugar cane, &c. M. de Commerson, naturalist, who was on board the
+_Etoile_, recognized the Indian flora. The only quadrupeds were pigs,
+dogs, and rats, who multiplied rapidly.
+
+Bougainville says, "The climate is so healthy that in spite of our
+fatigues, although our people were perpetually in the water, and under
+a burning sun, sleeping on the naked soil under the stars, no one was
+ill. The sufferers from scurvy whom we disembarked, and who had not
+enjoyed a single night's sleep, regained their strength, and were so
+soon restored, that some of them were completely cured on board."
+
+In addition to this, the health and strength of the natives, who live
+in cabins open to every wind, and who scarcely cover the ground, which
+serves them as a bed, with a few leaves, the happy old age to which
+they easily attain, the sharpness of all their senses, and the
+singular beauty of their teeth, which they preserve to the greatest
+age, all testify to the salubrity of the climate, and the efficiency
+of the rules followed by the inhabitants.
+
+In character the people seem gentle and good. It would not appear that
+they have civil wars among themselves, although the country is divided
+into little portions under independent chiefs. They are constantly at
+war with the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands. Not satisfied
+with massacring the men and male children taken in arms, they skin
+their chins with the beard, and keep this hideous trophy. Bougainville
+could only obtain very vague information of their ceremonies and
+religion. But he could at least assert the reverence they pay their
+dead. They preserve the corpses for a long time in the open air, on a
+sort of scaffold sheltered by a shed. In spite of the odour of
+decomposition, the women go every day to weep near the monuments, and
+bedew the sad relics of their beloved ones with their tears and with
+cocoa-nut oil.
+
+The soil is so productive, and requires so little cultivation, that
+men and women live in a state of almost entire idleness. Therefore it
+is not astonishing that the sole care of the latter is to be pleasing.
+Dancing, singing, long conversations, teeming with gaiety, have
+developed a mobility of expression among the Tahitans, surprising even
+to the French, a people who themselves have not the reputation of
+being serious, possibly because they are more lively than those who
+reproach them with levity.
+
+It is impossible to fix a native's attention. A trifle strikes them,
+but nothing occupies them. In spite of their want of reflection they
+were clever and industrious. Their pirogues were constructed after a
+fashion equally ingenious and solid. Their fish-hooks and all their
+fishing implements were of delicate workmanship. Their nets were like
+those of Europeans. Their stuffs manufactured of the bark of a tree,
+were generally woven and dyed of various colours.
+
+In fact Bougainville's impression of the Tahitan people was that they
+were "lazzaroni."
+
+At eight o'clock on the 16th of April, Bougainville was about ten
+leagues north of Tahiti, when he perceived land to windward. Although
+it had the appearance of three islands, it was in reality but one. It
+was named Oumaita after Aotourou. The captain, not thinking it wise to
+stop there, steered so as to avoid the Pernicious Islands, of which
+Roggewein's disaster had made him afraid. During the remainder of the
+month of April the weather was fine, with little wind.
+
+On the 3rd of May, Bougainville bore down towards a new land, which he
+had just discovered, and was not long in finding others on the same
+day. The coasts of the largest one were steep; in point of fact, it
+was simply a mountain covered with trees to its summit, with neither
+valley nor sea coast. Some fires were seen there, cabins built under
+the shade of the cocoanut-trees, and some thirty men running on the
+shore. In the evening, several pirogues approached the vessels, and
+after a little natural hesitation, exchanges commenced. The natives
+demanded pieces of red cloth in exchange for cocoa-nuts, yams, and far
+less beautiful stuffs than those of the Tahitans; they disdainfully
+refused iron, nails, and earrings, which had been so appreciated
+elsewhere in the Bourbon Archipelago, as Bougainville had named the
+Tahitan group. The natives had their breasts and thighs painted dark
+blue; they wore no beards; their hair was drawn into tufts on the top
+of their heads.
+
+[Illustration: Pirogue of the Marquesas islanders.]
+
+Next day, fresh islands belonging to the archipelago were seen. The
+natives, who appeared very savage, would not approach the vessels.
+
+"The longitude of these islands," says the narrative, "is pretty
+nearly similar to that which Abel Tasman reckoned it when he
+discovered Amsterdam and Rotterdam Islands, the Pilstaars, Prince
+William Island, and the low lands of Fleemskerk. It is also
+approximate to that assigned for the Solomon Islands. Besides the
+pirogues which we have seen rowing in the open sea, and to the south,
+indicate other islands in this locality. Thus it appears likely that
+these lands form an extended chain in the same parallel. The islands
+comprising the Navigator Archipelago, lie below the fourteenth
+southern parallel, between 170 degrees and 172 degrees west longitude
+from Paris."
+
+As fresh victuals diminished, scurvy again began to appear. It was
+necessary to think of putting into a port again. On the 22nd and the
+following days of the same month, Pentecost Island, Aurora and Leper
+Islands, which belong to the archipelago of New Hebrides, were
+reconnoitred. They had been discovered by Quiros in 1606. The landing
+appearing easy, the captain determined to send an expedition on shore,
+which would bring back cocoa-nuts and other antiscorbutic fruits.
+Bougainville joined them during the day. The sailors cut wood, and the
+natives aided in shipping it. But in spite of this apparent good
+feeling, the natives were still distrustful, and carried their weapons
+in their hands. Those who possessed none, held large stones, all ready
+to throw.
+
+As soon as the boats were laden with fruit and wood, Bougainville
+re-embarked his men. The natives then approached in great numbers, and
+discharged a shower of arrows, lances, and javelins, some even entered
+the water, the better to aim at the French. Several gunshots, fired
+into the air, having no effect, a well-directed general volley soon
+put the natives to flight.
+
+A few days later, a boat seeking anchorage upon the coast of the Leper
+Islands, was in danger of attack. Two arrows aimed at them served as a
+pretext for the first discharge, which was speedily followed by a fire
+so well directed, that Bougainville believed his crew in danger. The
+number of victims was very large, the natives uttered piercing cries
+as they fled to the woods. It was a regular massacre. The captain,
+uneasy at the prolonged firing, sent another boat to the help of the
+first, when he saw it doubling a point, He therefore signalled for
+their return. "I took measures," he said, "that we should never again
+be dishonoured by such an abuse of our superior forces."
+
+The easy abuse of their powers by captains is truly sad! The mania for
+destroying life needlessly, even without any object, raises one's
+indignation! To whatever nation explorers belong we find them guilty
+of the same acts. The reproach, therefore, belongs not to a particular
+nation, but to humanity at large.
+
+Having obtained the commodities he needed, Bougainville regained the
+sea.
+
+It would appear that the navigator aimed at making many discoveries,
+for he only reconnoitred the lands he found very superficially and
+hastily, and of all the charts which accompany the narrative, and
+there are many of them, not one gives an entire archipelago, or
+settles the various questions to which a new discovery gives rise.
+Captain Cook did not proceed in this way. His explorations, always
+conducted with care, and with rare perseverance, are for that very
+reason far superior in value to those of the French explorer.
+
+The lands which the French now encountered, were no other than St.
+Esprit, Mallicolo, and St. Bartholomew, and the islets belonging to
+the latter. Although he was perfectly aware that these islands were
+identical with the _Tierra del Espiritu Santo_ of Quiros, Bougainville
+could not refrain from bestowing a new name upon them, and called them
+the Archipelago des "Grandes Cyclades," to which however, the name of
+New Hebrides has been given in preference. "I readily believed," he
+says, "that it was its extreme southern point which Roggewein saw
+under the eleventh parallel, and which he named _Tienhoven_ and
+_Groningue_. But when we arrived there everything led us to believe
+that we were in the southern land of Espiritu Santo. Every appearance
+seemed to coincide with Quiros's narrative, and the discoveries we
+made every day encouraged us in our search. It is singular that
+precisely in the same latitude and longitude as that which Quiros
+gives to his St. Philip and St. James' Bays, upon a shore which at
+first sight appeared like a continent, we found a passage equal in
+size to that which he gives to the opening of his bays. Did the
+Spanish navigator see badly, or did he wish to hide his discoveries?
+
+"Had geographers merely guessed in making the Tierra del Espiritu
+Santo identical with New Guinea? To ascertain the truth, we must
+follow the same parallel for over 350 leagues. I resolved upon doing
+so, although the state and quantity of our provisions warned us to
+seek a European settlement as soon as possible. It will be seen that
+we narrowly escaped being the victims of our own persistance."
+
+Whilst Bougainville was in these latitudes certain business matters
+required his presence on board the _Etoile_, and he there found out a
+singular fact, which had already been largely discussed by his crew. M.
+de Commerson had a servant named Barre. Indefatigable, intelligent,
+and already an experienced botanist, Barre had been seen taking an
+active part in the herborising excursions, carrying boxes, provisions,
+the weapons, and books of plants, with endurance which obtained from
+the botanist, the nickname of his beast of burden. For some time past
+Barre had been supposed to be a woman. His smooth face, the tone of
+his voice, his reserve, and certain other signs, appeared to justify
+the supposition, when on arriving at Tahiti suspicions were changed
+into certainty. M. de Commerson landed to botanize, and according to
+custom Barre followed him with the boxes, when he was surrounded by
+natives, who, exclaiming that it was a woman, were disposed to verify
+their opinion. A midshipman, M. Bommand, had the greatest trouble in
+rescuing her from the natives, and escorting her back to the ship.
+When Bougainville visited the _Etoile_, he received Barre's confession.
+In tears, the assistant botanist confessed her sex, and excused
+herself for having deceived her master, by presenting herself in man's
+clothes, at the very moment of embarkation. Having no family, and
+having been ruined by a law-suit, this girl had donned man's clothes
+to insure respect. She was aware, before she embarked, that she was
+going on a voyage round the world, and the prospect, far from
+frightening her, only confirmed her in her resolution.
+
+[Illustration: Mdlle. Barre's adventure.]
+
+"She will be the first woman who has been round the world," says
+Bougainville, "and I must do her the justice to admit that she has
+conducted herself with the most scrupulous discretion. She is neither
+ugly nor pretty, and at most is only twenty-six or twenty-seven years
+old. It must be admitted that had the two vessels suffered shipwreck
+upon a desert island, it would have been a singular experience for
+Barre."
+
+The expedition lost sight of land on the 29th of May. The route was
+directed westward. On the 4th of June, a very dangerous rock, so
+slightly above water that at two leagues' distant it was not visible
+from the look-out, was discovered in latitude 15 degrees 50 minutes,
+and 148 degrees 10 minutes longitude. The constant recurrence of
+breakers, trunks of trees in large quantities, fruits and sea wrack,
+and the smoothness of the sea, all indicated the neighbourhood of
+extensive land to the south-east. It was New Holland. Bougainville
+determined to leave these dangerous latitudes, where he was likely to
+meet with nothing but barren lands, and a sea strewn with rocks and
+full of shallows. There were other urgent reasons for changing the
+route, provisions were getting low, the salt meat was so tainted, that
+the rats caught on board were eaten in preference. Bread enough for
+two months, and vegetables for forty days alone remained. All
+clamoured for a return to the north.
+
+Unfortunately the south winds had ceased, and when they re-commenced,
+they brought the expedition within an inch of destruction.
+
+On the 10th of June land was seen to the north. It was the bottom of
+the Gulf of the Louisiade, which had received the name of Cul-de-sac
+de l'Orangerie. The country was magnificent. On the sea shore, a low
+land covered with trees and shrubs, the balmy odours of which reached
+the ships, rose like an amphitheatre towards the mountains, whose
+summits were lost in the skies. However, it was impossible to visit
+this rich and fertile country, but, on the other hand, desirable to
+find to the east a passage to the south of New Guinea, which, by way
+of the Gulf of Carpentaria, would have led direct to the Moluccas. Did
+such a passage exist? Nothing was more problematic, for the notion was
+that land had been seen extending far to the westward. It was needful
+to hurry as fast as possible from the gulf where the ships had so
+incautiously involved themselves.
+
+[Illustration: Louisiade Archipelago. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+But there is a wide difference between a wish and its fulfilment! The
+two vessels strove in vain up to the 21st of June to transport
+themselves to the west, from this coast, which was so full of rocks
+and breakers, and upon which the wind and currents bade fair to
+swallow them up. The fog and rain continued so closely with them, that
+the frigate could only proceed in company with the _Etoile_ by a
+constant firing of guns. When the wind changed, they profited by it,
+and immediately proceeded to the open sea--but it soon veered again,
+and continued east-south-east, and thus they speedily lost the ground
+they had gained.
+
+During this terrible cruise, the rations of bread and vegetables were
+obliged to be reduced, consumption of old leather was threatened with
+severe punishment, and the last goat on board was sacrificed.
+
+It is difficult for the reader, tranquilly sitting in his
+chimney-corner, to imagine the anxiety of a voyage in these unknown
+seas,--threatened with the unexpected appearance of rocks and breakers,
+with contrary winds, unknown currents, and a fog which concealed all
+dangers. Cape Deliverance was only rounded on the 26th. It was now
+possible to start for the north-north-east.
+
+Two days later, when they had made about sixty leagues northward, some
+islands were perceived ahead. Bougainville imagined they were a part
+of the Louisiade group, but they are more generally accepted as
+belonging to the Solomon Archipelago, which Carteret, who saw them the
+preceding year, as little imagined that he had reached, as the French
+navigator.
+
+Several pirogues speedily surrounded the two ships. They were manned
+by natives, blacker than Africans, with long curling red hair. Armed
+with javelins, they uttered shrill cries, and showed dispositions far
+from peaceful. It was useless to attempt to reach them. The surge
+broke violently, and the coast was so narrow that it scarcely seemed
+as if there were one at all.
+
+Surrounded on all sides by islands, and in a thick fog, Bougainville
+steered by instinct in a passage only four or five leagues in width,
+and with a sea so rough that the _Etoile_ was forced to close her
+hatchways.
+
+Upon the eastern coast a pretty bay was perceived, which promised good
+anchorage. Boats were told off to sound it. Whilst they were thus
+engaged, ten or more pirogues, upon which some hundred and fifty men
+armed with bucklers, lances, and bows, were embarked, advanced against
+them. The pirogues divided into two parties to surround the French
+boats. As soon as they were within sufficient reach, the natives
+showered a storm of arrows and javelins upon the boats. The first
+discharge failed to stop them. A second was necessary to disperse them.
+Two pirogues, the crews of which had jumped into the sea, were
+captured. Of great length and well made, these boats were decorated in
+front with a man's head carved, the eyes of which were formed of
+mother of pearl, the ears of tortoise-shell, and the lips painted red.
+
+The water in which this combat took place was called the Warrior River,
+and the island received the name of Choiseul, in honour of the French
+Minister of Marine.
+
+On leaving this strait a new land was discovered--Bougainville Island,
+the southern extremity of which, called Laverdy Cape, appears to join
+Bouka Island. The latter, which Carteret had seen the preceding year,
+and which he named Winchelsea, appeared densely populated--if the
+cabins which abounded were any criterion.
+
+The inhabitants, whom Bougainville classifies as Negroes, probably to
+distinguish them from the Polynesians and Malays, are Papuans, of the
+same race as the inhabitants of New Guinea. Their short curly hair was
+painted red, and the betel-nut, which they perpetually chewed, had
+communicated the same colour to their teeth. The coast with its
+cocoanut and other trees, promised plentiful refreshments, but
+contrary winds and currents quickly drew the ships away.
+
+On the 6th of July Bougainville cast anchor on the southern coast of
+New Ireland, which had been discovered by Schouten, in Port Praslin,
+at the very point where Carteret had stopped.
+
+"We sent our casks on shore," says the narrative, "and began to
+collect water and wood, and commence washing, all of which was most
+necessary. The disembarkation was splendid--upon fine sand, with
+neither rock nor wave.
+
+"Four streams flowed into the harbour in a space measuring four
+hundred paces. We selected three, according to custom; one to supply
+water for _La Boudeuse_, one for the _Etoile_, and one for washing
+purposes. Wood was plentiful on the shore, and there were various
+kinds of it, all good for burning, and several first-rate for
+carpentery, joinery, and even toy-making.
+
+"The two vessels were in hearing of each other and close to the shore.
+Again this part and its neighbourhood to a great distance were
+uninhabited--a fact which secured us precious peace and liberty. We
+could not have hoped for a surer anchorage, or a more convenient spot
+for water, wood, or the various repairs needed by the vessels. We were
+able to send the sufferers from scurvy to range the woods. But with
+all these advantages, the port had a few inconveniences. In spite of
+active search, neither cocoanut-trees nor bananas were to be found,
+nor any of the resources which either by consent or by force, could
+have been gained in an inhabited country. Fish was not abundant, and
+we could expect only safety and strictly necessary things. There was
+every fear that the sick would not re-establish their health. We had
+indeed no serious cases, but several were infected, and no improvement
+took place, and their malady could not have increased more rapidly."
+
+They had been only a few days in port, when a sailor found a leaden
+plate upon which was an inscription in English. It was easy to guess
+that they had found the very spot where Carteret had made a stay the
+preceding year.
+
+The resources offered by this country to sportsmen were mediocre in
+the extreme. They did indeed catch sight of a few boars or wild pigs,
+but it was impossible to hit them. To make up for this they shot most
+beautiful pigeons, the bodies and necks of grey-white, and of golden
+green plumage, turtle-doves, parroquets, crested birds, and a species
+of crow, whose cry was so like the baying of a dog, as to be mistaken
+for it. The trees were large and magnificent, amongst them the betel,
+the areca, and the pepper-tree. Malignant reptiles swarm in these
+marshy lands, and in the ancient forests, serpents, scorpions, and
+other venomous reptiles abounded. Unfortunately, they were not only to
+be found on land. A sailor in search of _marteaux_, a very rare kind
+of bivalve mussel, was stung by a serpent. The fearful suffering and
+violent convulsions which followed only subsided at the expiration of
+five or six hours, and at last, the theriac which was administered to
+him after the bite, effected a cure. This accident was a sad damper to
+conchological enthusiasm. Upon the 22nd, after a severe storm, the
+ships were sensible of several slight earthquakes, the sea rose and
+fell several times in succession, which greatly alarmed the sailors
+who were occupied in fishing.
+
+In spite of the rain and ceaseless storms which continued daily, a
+detachment started to search the interior for Bourbon palms,
+palm-trees, and turtle-doves. They expected to find wonders, but
+returned oftenest empty-handed and with the one result of being wet to
+the skin. A natural curiosity at some distance from the anchorage, a
+thousand times more beautiful than the wonders invented for the
+ornament of kingly palaces, attracted numberless visitors, who could
+never tire of admiring it. It was a waterfall, too beautiful for
+description! To form any idea of its beauty, it would be necessary to
+reproduce by the brush the sparkling gleam of the spray lit up by the
+rays of the sun, the vaporous shade of the tropical trees which dipped
+their branches into the water, and the fantastic display of light over
+a magnificent country, not yet spoiled by the hand of man!
+
+As soon as the weather changed, the ships left Port Praslin, to follow
+the coast of New Guinea, until the 3rd of August. The _Etoile_ was
+attacked by hundreds of pirogues, and forced to return the stones and
+arrows that assailed her by a few gunshots, which put the assailants
+to flight. On the 4th the islands named Matthias and Stormy by Dampier
+were sighted. Three days later Anchorite Island was recognized, so
+called because a number of pirogues occupied in fishing, took no
+notice of the _Etoile_ and _Boudeuse_, disdaining to enter into
+relations with the strangers. After passing a series of islets half
+under water, upon which the vessels nearly struck, and which were
+named the Echiquiers by Bougainville, the coast of New Guinea appeared.
+Steep and mountainous, it ran west-north-west. On the 12th a large bay
+was discovered, but the currents, which so far had been unfavourable,
+were equally so in carrying the boats far from it. It was visible at a
+distance of twenty leagues from two gigantic mountains, Cyclops and
+Bougainville.
+
+The Arimoa Islands, the largest of which is only four miles in length,
+were next seen, but the bad weather and the currents forced the two
+vessels to remain in the open sea and relinquish all exploration. It
+was necessary, however, to maintain a close watch in order to avoid
+missing the outlet into the Indian Ocean. Mispulu and Waigiou, the
+last at the extreme north of New Guinea, were passed in succession.
+
+The "Canal des Francais," the outlet for ships from this mass of
+little islands and rocks, was passed without mishap. From thence
+Bougainville penetrated to the Molucca Archipelago, where he reckoned
+upon finding the fresh provisions requisite for the forty-five
+sufferers from scurvy on board.
+
+In absolute ignorance of the events which had occurred in Europe since
+he left it, Bougainville would not run the risk of visiting a colony
+in which he was not the strongest power. The small Dutch establishment,
+Boeton or Bourou Island, suited him perfectly, all the more that
+provisions were easily obtained there. The crew received orders to
+enter the Gulf of Cajeti with the greatest delight. No one on board
+had escaped scurvy, and half the crew, Bougainville says, were quite
+unfit for duty.
+
+"The victuals remaining to us were so tainted and ill-smelling, that
+the worst moments of our sad days were those when we were obliged to
+partake of such disgusting and unwholesome viands.
+
+"The charms of Boeton Island were enhanced by our wretched situation.
+
+"About midnight a delicious odour, emanating from the aromatic plants
+with which the Molucca Islands are covered, had been wafted several
+leagues out to sea, and was hailed by us as a forerunner of the end of
+our woes.
+
+"The appearance of the moderately sized town, situated below the gulf,
+with vessels at anchor, and cattle grazing in the pastures that
+surrounded it, caused pleasure in which I participated, but which I
+cannot describe."
+
+Scarcely had the _Boudeuse_ and the _Etoile_ cast anchor, than the
+resident governor sent two soldiers to inquire of the French captain
+what reason he could assign for stopping at this place, when he must
+be aware that entrance was permitted to the ships of the India Company
+only. Bougainville immediately sent an officer to explain that hunger
+and sickness forced him to enter the first port which presented itself
+in his route. Also, that he would leave Boeton as soon as he had
+received the aid of which he had urgent need. The resident at once
+sent him the order of the Governor of Amboyna, which expressly forbade
+his receiving any strange ship in his harbour, and begged Bougainville
+to make a written declaration of the reason for his putting into port,
+in order that he might prove to his superior that he had not infringed
+his orders except under paramount necessity.
+
+As soon as Bougainville had signed a certificate to this effect,
+cordiality was established with the Dutch. The resident entertained
+the officers at his own table, and a contract was concluded for
+provisions and fresh meat. Bread gave place to rice, the usual food of
+the Dutch, and fresh vegetables which are not usually cultivated in
+the island, were provided for the crews by the resident, who obtained
+them from the Company's gardens. It would have been desirable for the
+re-establishment of the health of the crew, that the stay at this port
+could have been prolonged, but the end of the monsoon warned
+Bougainville to set out for Batavia.
+
+The captain left Boeton on the 7th of September, convinced that
+navigation in the Molucca Archipelago was not so difficult as it
+suited the Dutch to affirm. As for trusting to French charts, they
+were of no use, being more qualified to mislead vessels than to guide
+them.
+
+Bougainville therefore directed his course through the Straits of
+Button and Saleyer; a route which, though commonly used by the Dutch,
+is but little known to other nations. The narrative therefore
+carefully describes, with mention of every cape, the course he took.
+We will not dwell upon this part of the voyage, although it is very
+instructive, and on that account interesting to seafaring men.
+
+On the 28th of September, ten months and a half after leaving
+Montevideo, the _Etoile_ and the _Boudeuse_ arrived at Batavia, one of
+the finest colonies in the world. After touching at the Isle of France,
+the Cape of Good Hope, and Ascension Island, near which he met
+Carteret, Bougainville entered St. Malo on the 16th of February, 1769,
+having lost only seven men, in the two years and four months which had
+elapsed since he left Nantes.
+
+The remaining particulars of the career of this fortunate navigator do
+not concern our purpose, and may be dismissed briefly.
+
+He took part in the American war, and in 1781 participated in an
+honourable combat before Port Royal off Martinique. Made Chief of the
+fleet in 1780, he, ten years later, received a commission to
+re-establish order in the mutinous fleet of M. d'Albert de Rions.
+Created vice-admiral in 1792, he did not think it right to accept a
+high rank, which was, to use his own words, "a title without duties."
+
+Nominated first to the Bureau of Longitudes, and then to the Institute,
+raised to the rank of senator, created a count by Napoleon I.,
+Bougainville died full of years and honours, on the 31st of August,
+1811.
+
+Bougainville acquired popularity as the first Frenchman who
+accomplished a voyage round the world. Though the merit of discovering
+and reconnoitring, if not of exploring, many groups of islands little
+known and quite neglected before his time, has been ascribed to him,
+he owes his reputation rather to the charm and easy animation of his
+narrative, than to his labours. If he is better known than many other
+French naval officers, his competitors, it is not so much because he
+accomplished more than they, as because his style of narrating his
+adventures charmed his contemporaries.
+
+As for Guyot Duclos, his secondary share in the enterprise, and his
+plebeian rank, excluded him from reward. He was afterwards given the
+cross of St. Louis, but he earned the title by his rescue of the
+_Belle Poule_. Although he was born in 1722, and had been in the navy
+since the year 1734, he was still only lieutenant in 1791. A
+succession of ministers of new views was needed to obtain the rank of
+ship-captain for him: a tardy recompense of long and signal services.
+Guyot Duclos died at St. Servan on the 10th March, 1794.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE.
+
+
+I.
+
+The beginning of his maritime career--The command of the _Adventure_
+entrusted to him--Tierra del Fuego--Discovery of some islands in the
+Pomotou Archipelago--Arrival at Tahiti--Manners and customs of the
+inhabitants--Discovery of other islands in the Society group--Arrival
+at New Zealand--Interview with the natives--Discovery of Cook's
+Strait--Circumnavigation of two large islands--Manners and productions
+of the country.
+
+
+In narrating the career of a distinguished man, it is well to neglect
+none of those details which may appear of but slight importance. They
+acquire significance as indications of a vocation unknown even to its
+subject, and throw a light upon the character under consideration. For
+these reasons we shall dwell a little upon the humble beginning of the
+career of one of the most illustrious navigators whom England boasts.
+
+James Cook was born at Marton, in Yorkshire, on the 27th of October,
+1728. He was the ninth child of a farm servant, and a peasant woman
+named Grace. When scarcely eight years of age little James assisted
+his father in the rough toil of the farm of Airy Holme, near Ayton.
+His amiability, and love of work, attracted the interest of the farmer,
+who had him taught to read.
+
+When he was thirteen years of age, he was apprenticed to William
+Sanderson, a linendraper at Snaith, a fishing-hamlet of some
+importance. But young Cook found little pleasure in an employment
+which kept him behind a counter, and he spent every leisure moment in
+chatting with the sailors who visited the port. Gaining his father's
+consent, James soon left the linendraper's, to engage himself as
+ship-boy, to Messrs. Walker, whose boats carried coal from England to
+Ireland.
+
+Successively ship-lad, sailor, and master, Cook rapidly learned all
+the details of his profession.
+
+In the spring of 1755, as the first hostilities between England and
+France broke out, the boat upon which Cook served was anchored in the
+Thames. The navy was recruited in those days by means of pressgangs.
+At first Cook hid himself, but afterwards, urged no doubt by a
+presentiment, he engaged himself on board the _Eagle_, a vessel of
+sixty guns, to the command of which Sir Hugh Palliser was soon
+appointed.
+
+Intelligent, active, thoroughly at home in all the details of the
+service, Cook was noticed by the officers, and attracted the attention
+of his captain, who in a short time received a letter of warm
+recommendation from the member for Scarborough, sent in accordance
+with the pressing solicitations of all the inhabitants of Ayton, for
+young Cook, who shortly afterwards received a warrant as boatswain. He
+embarked upon the _Mercury_, bound for Canada, upon the 15th of May,
+1759, and joined the fleet of Sir Charles Saunders, who, in
+conjunction with General Wolfe, conducted the siege of Quebec.
+
+In that campaign Cook found the first opportunity of distinguishing
+himself. Ordered off to sound the St. Lawrence between Orleans Island
+and the northern shore of the river, he executed his task with much
+skill, and drew up a chart of the channel in spite of the difficulties
+and dangers of the enterprise. His hydrographical sketch was
+acknowledged to be so exact and complete that he received orders to
+examine the channels of the river below Quebec. This duty he performed
+so well that his chart of the St. Lawrence was published by the
+English Admiralty. After the capture of Quebec, Cook passed on to the
+_Northumberland_, under command of Lord Colville, and profited by his
+stay on the shores of Newfoundland to devote himself to astronomy.
+Important operations were now entrusted to him. He drew up the plan of
+Placentia, and took the bearings of St. Peter and Miquelon.
+
+In 1764 he was made naval engineer for Newfoundland and Labrador, and
+was employed for three consecutive years in hydrographical tasks,
+which obtained for him the notice of the ministry, and helped to
+correct innumerable errors in the maps of America.
+
+At the same time he addressed a treatise to the Royal Society of
+London, upon an eclipse of the sun, which he had observed in
+Newfoundland in 1766.
+
+This document appeared in the "Philosophical Transactions." Cook was
+not long in receiving a due reward for so much, and such successful
+labour, and for his patient studies, the more meritorious, as he had
+had few opportunities, and was self-taught.
+
+A scientific question of the highest importance, viz., the transit of
+Venus across the sun's disc, which had been announced for 1769, was
+eagerly discussed by all the scientists of the day. The English
+Government, confident that this observation could only be effectually
+made in the Pacific Sea, resolved to send a scientific expedition
+thither.
+
+The command was offered to the famous hydrographer A. Dalrymple,
+equally celebrated for his astronomical investigations, and his
+geographical discoveries in the southern seas. But he was so exacting
+in his demands, and so persevering in his request for a commission as
+ship's captain, which Sir Edward Hawker as obstinately refused, that
+the Secretary of the Admiralty proposed another commander for the
+projected enterprise.
+
+His choice fell upon James Cook, who was cordially recommended by Sir
+Hugh Palliser, and to him therefore the command of the _Endeavour_ was
+given, whilst he was at the same time raised to the rank of ship's
+lieutenant.
+
+Cook was now forty years of age. This was his first appointment in the
+Royal Navy. The mission entrusted to him called for varied
+qualifications, rarely to be met with in a sailor. For, although the
+observation of the transit of Venus was the principal object of the
+voyage, it was by no means the only one. Cook was also to make a
+voyage of discovery in the Pacific Ocean. But the humbly born
+Yorkshire lad was destined to prove himself equal to his task.
+
+Whilst the _Endeavour_ was being equipped, her crew of eighty-four men
+chosen, her store of eighteen months' provision embarked, her ten guns
+and twelve swivel guns, with the needful ammunition, shipped, Captain
+Wallis arrived in England. He had accomplished his voyage round the
+world. He was consulted as to the best spot for the observation of the
+transit of Venus, and he selected an island which he had discovered,
+and which was named by him after George III. It was later known by its
+native name of Tahiti. From this spot therefore Cook was to take
+observations.
+
+Charles Green, assistant to Dr. Bradley, of Greenwich Observatory,
+embarked with him. To Green was entrusted the astronomical department,
+Doctor Solander, a Swedish doctor of medicine, a disciple of Linnaeus,
+and professor at the British Museum, undertook the botanical part.
+Finally, Sir Joseph Banks joined the expedition, out of simple
+interest, anxious to employ his energy and fortune. After leaving
+Oxford, Sir Joseph Banks had visited the Newfoundland coast and
+Labrador, and had there acquired a taste for botany. Two painters
+accompanied the expedition, one a landscape and portrait painter, the
+other a scientific draughtsman. In addition to these persons, the
+company comprised a secretary and four servants, two of whom were
+negroes.
+
+The _Endeavour_ left Plymouth upon the 26th of August, 1768, and put
+into port at Funchal, in the island of Madeira, on the 13th of
+September, to obtain fresh fruit and make discoveries. The expedition
+met with a cordial reception.
+
+During their visit to a convent, the staff of the _Endeavour_ were
+entreated by the poor immured recluses to let them know when it would
+thunder, and to find a spring of fresh water for them, which they
+sorely needed, in the interior of the convent. With all their learning,
+Banks, Solander, and Cook found it impossible to satisfy these demands.
+
+From Madeira to Rio de Janeiro, where the expedition arrived on the
+13th of November, no incident interrupted the voyage, but Cook's
+reception by the Portuguese was hardly what he expected. The whole
+time of his stay in port was spent in disputes with the viceroy, a man
+of little knowledge, and quite incapable of understanding the
+scientific aspect of the expedition. However, he could not well refuse
+to supply the English with fresh provisions, of which they had
+absolutely none left. As, however, Cook was passing Fort Santa Cruz on
+leaving the bay, two shots were fired after him, whereupon he
+immediately cast anchor, and demanded the meaning of the insult. The
+viceroy replied that the commandant of the Fort had orders to allow no
+vessel to leave the bay without his having received notice, and
+although Captain Cook had notified his intention to the viceroy, it
+had, by pure neglect, not been communicated to the Commandant of the
+Fort. Was this an intentional act of discourtesy on the part of the
+viceroy? or was it simple heedlessness?
+
+If the viceroy was equally negligent in all the details of his
+administration, the Portuguese colony must have been well regulated!
+
+Cook entered the Straits of Lemaire on the 14th of January, 1769.
+Kippis, in his Life of Captain Cook, gives the following account:--
+
+"The sea ran so high, that the water was above Cape San Diego, and the
+vessel was so driven by the wind that her bowsprit was constantly
+under water. Next day anchor was cast in a small harbour, which was
+recognized as Port Maurice, and soon afterwards they anchored in the
+Bay of Good Success. Whilst the _Endeavour_ remained off this spot a
+strange and untoward adventure befell Banks, Solander, Dr. Green, and
+Monkhouse, the surgeon of the vessel, and their attendants. They were
+proceeding towards a mountain in search of plants, and as they climbed
+it they were surprised by cold, so penetrating and sudden, that they
+were all in danger of perishing. Dr. Solander was seized with vertigo,
+two negro servants died on the spot, finally the gentlemen were only
+able to regain the vessel after a lapse of two days. They rejoiced in
+their deliverance, with a joy which can only be estimated by those who
+have escaped similar dangers, whilst Cook showed a lively pleasure in
+the cessation of the anxiety their absence had caused him. This event
+gave them a proof of the severity of the climate."
+
+It was the middle of summer in this part of the world, and the day,
+when the cold surprised them, had begun as warmly as an ordinary May
+morning in England.
+
+James Cook was enabled to make some curious observations upon the
+savage inhabitants of those desolate regions. Destitute of the
+necessaries of life, without clothes, without efficient shelter from
+the almost perpetual severity of this glacial latitude, unarmed, and
+unlearned in any industrial art which would enable them to construct
+the more necessary utensils, they passed a miserable life, and could
+only exist with difficulty. In spite of these facts, of all the
+articles offered in exchange they invariably chose the least useful.
+They joyfully accepted bracelets and necklaces, and rejected hatchets,
+knives, and fish-hooks. Careless of what we consider valuables, our
+superfluities were their necessaries.
+
+Cook had reason to congratulate himself upon the selection of this
+route. He took thirty days to double Tierra del Fuego, from the date
+of his entrance into the Straits of Lemaire to his arrival, three
+degrees north of Magellan. No doubt a much longer time would have been
+needed, if he had followed the winding course of the Strait of
+Magellan. His very exact astronomical observations, in which Green
+joined him, and the directions he gave for this dangerous navigation,
+smoothed the difficulties of his successors, and rectified the charts
+of L'Hermite, Lemaire, and Schouten.
+
+[Illustration: Captain James Cook. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+Cook noticed no current of any importance from the 21st January, the
+day upon which he doubled Cape Horn, to the 1st of March, in a
+distance of one hundred and sixty leagues of sea. He discovered a good
+many islands in the Dangerous Archipelago, which he respectively named,
+Lagoon, Arch, Groups, Birds, and Chain Islands. The greater number
+were inhabited and were covered with vegetation, which to sailors who
+for three months had seen only sea and sky, and the frozen rocks of
+Tierra del Fuego, appeared luxuriant. Soon they found Martea Island,
+which Wallis had named Osnaburgh, and on the next day, 11th of June,
+the island of Tahiti was reached.
+
+Two days later, the _Endeavour_ cast anchor in Port Matavai, called
+Port Royal by Wallis, and where that captain had had a struggle with
+the natives, over whom, however, he had triumphed without much
+difficulty. Cook, aware of the incidents of his predecessor's stay in
+this port, wished above all to avoid similar scenes. Moreover, it was
+essential to the success of his observations that no interruption or
+distraction should occur. His first care was to read out standing
+orders to his crew, which they were forbidden under heavy penalties to
+infringe. He first declared that he intended in every possible way to
+cultivate friendly relations with the natives, then he selected those
+who were to buy the needed provisions, and forbade all others to
+attempt any sort of traffic without special permission. Finally, the
+men who landed were on no pretext to leave their posts, and if any
+soldier or workman parted with his arms or implements, not only would
+the price be deducted from his wages, but he would be punished in
+proportion to the exigency of the case.
+
+In addition to this, to guard the observers from attack, Cook decided
+on constructing a sort of fort, in which they might be sheltered
+within gun range of the _Endeavour_. He then landed with Messrs. Banks,
+Solander, and Green, soon found a favourable spot, and in presence of
+the natives immediately traced out the extent of land he intended to
+occupy. One of them, named Owhaw, who had had friendly intercourse
+with Wallis, was particularly profuse in his protestations of
+friendship.
+
+As soon as the plan of the fort was fixed, Cook left thirteen men and
+an officer in charge of the tents, and accompanied his associates into
+the interior of the island. But he was speedily recalled by the sound
+of firing.
+
+A very painful incident, the consequences of which might have been
+serious, had occasioned this.
+
+One of the natives had surprised a sentinel near the tents, and had
+possessed himself of his gun. A general discharge was immediately
+directed upon the inoffensive crowd, but fortunately no one was
+injured. The robber meantime was pursued and killed.
+
+A great commotion ensued, and Cook was profuse in his protestations,
+to pacify the natives. He promised payment for all that he required
+for the construction of his fort, and would not allow a tree to be
+felled without their sanction. Finally, he had the butcher of the
+_Endeavour_ mast-headed and flogged, for threatening the wife of one
+of the chiefs with death.
+
+This proceeding effaced the recollection of the painful antecedents,
+and with the exception of some thieving by the natives, the friendly
+relations remained undisturbed.
+
+And now the moment for the execution of the primary object of the
+voyage approached. Cook accordingly took steps for putting the
+instructions he had received into effect. With this view, he
+despatched observers with Sir Joseph Banks to Eimeo, one of the
+neighbouring isles.
+
+Four others proceeded to a favourable distance from the fort, where
+Cook himself proposed to await the transit of the planet. Hence the
+point of observation was called Point Venus.
+
+The night preceding the observation passed with many fears of
+unfavourable weather, but on the 3rd of June, the sun rose in all its
+glory, and not a cloud troubled the observers throughout the day.
+
+The observations, according to W. de Tonnelle's article in "Nature,"
+for the 28th of March, 1874, were most fatiguing for the astronomers,
+for they began at twenty-one minutes after nine in the morning, and
+only terminated at ten minutes after three in the afternoon, at which
+moment the heat was stifling. The thermometer registered 120 degrees
+Fahrenheit. Cook assures us, and we can readily believe it, that he
+himself was not certain of the end of his observation. In such
+thermetrical conditions, the human organism, admirable instrument as
+it is, loses its powers.
+
+On passing the sun, the rim of Venus was elongated as though attracted.
+A black point or dark ligament, a little less dark than the body of
+the star, was formed; the same phenomenon occurred upon the second
+interior contact.
+
+"The observation," says Cook, "was made with equal success at the fort,
+and by those I had sent to the east of the island. From the rising to
+the setting of the sun, not a single cloud obscured the sky, and Mr.
+Green, Dr. Solander, and myself, observed the entire transit of Venus
+with the greatest ease. Mr. Green's telescope and mine were of equal
+power, and that of Dr. Solander still stronger. We noted a luminous
+atmosphere or fog surrounding the planet, which rendered the actual
+moment of contact and especially of interior contacts somewhat
+indistinct. To this fact it is owing that our observations varied
+somewhat one from the other."
+
+Whilst the officers and _savants_ were engaged in this important
+observation, some of the crew, forcing an entrance into the storeroom,
+stole a hundredweight of nails. This was a grave offence, and one
+which might have had disastrous results for the expedition. The market
+was at once glutted with that one article of traffic, and as the
+natives testified an immoderate desire to possess it, there was every
+reason to anticipate an increase in their demands. One of the thieves
+was detected, but only seventy nails were found in his possession, and
+the application of eighty lashes failed to make him betray his
+accomplices.
+
+Other incidents of this kind constantly occurred, but friendly
+relations were not seriously disturbed. The officers were free to make
+incursions into the interior of the island to prosecute scientific
+investigations, and to inquire into the manners of the inhabitants.
+
+In one of these excursions, Sir Joseph Banks met a band of itinerant
+musicians and _improvisatori_. They were somewhat surprised to find
+that the arrival of the English, and the various incidents of their
+stay formed the subjects of native songs. Banks followed the river
+which flows into the sea at Matavai, some distance into the interior,
+and found traces of a long extinct volcano. He planted, and also
+distributed among the population a large number of kitchen-garden
+seeds, such as water-melons, oranges, lemons, &c., and planned a
+garden near the fort, where he sowed many of the seeds he had selected
+at Rio Janeiro.
+
+Cook, and his principal assistants, wished to accomplish the
+circumnavigation of the island, which they estimated at thirty
+nautical leagues. During this voyage they entered into amicable
+relations with the chiefs of different districts, and collected a mass
+of information as to the manners and customs of the natives.
+
+A curious custom was that of allowing the dead to decompose in the
+open air, and of burying the bones only. The corpse was placed in a
+hut about fifteen feet in length, and eleven in height, and of
+proportionate width. One end was closed up, and the three other sides
+shut in by trellis-work of twigs. The board upon which the corpse
+rested was five feet above the earth. There the dead body was laid,
+covered in stuffs, with its club and stone hatchet. Cocoa-nuts,
+wreathed together, were hung at the open end of the tent; half a
+cocoa-nut, filled with soft water, was placed outside, and a bag
+containing some bits of toasted bread, was attached to a post. This
+species of monument is called Toupapow. Whence could that singular
+method of raising the dead above the ground until the flesh was
+decayed by putrefaction have been derived! It is quite impossible to
+find out. Cook could only ascertain that the cemeteries called Morai,
+are places where the natives observe certain religious customs, and
+that they always betrayed some uneasiness when the English approached.
+
+One of their most delicate dishes was dog. Those intended for the
+table never ate meat, but were fed upon bread-fruits, cocoa-nuts, yams,
+and other vegetables. The flesh placed in a hole upon hot stones
+covered with green leaves, was stewed down in four hours. Cook, who
+partook of it, says it has a delicious flavour.
+
+On the 7th of July, preparations for departure began. In a short time
+the doors and palings were removed, and the walls demolished. At this
+moment, one of the natives, who had received the English with
+cordiality, came on board with a young lad of about thirteen years of
+age, who acted as his servant. He was named Tupia. Formerly first
+minister to Queen Oberea, he was afterwards one of the principal
+priests of Tahiti. He asked to be allowed to go to England. Many
+reasons combined to decide Cook upon permitting this. Thoroughly
+acquainted (as a necessary consequence of his high functions) with all
+the particulars concerning Tahiti, this native would be able to give
+the most circumstantial details of his compatriots, and at the same
+time to initiate them into the civilized customs of the Europeans.
+Finally, he had visited the neighbouring islands and perfectly
+understood the navigation of those latitudes.
+
+On the 13th of July there was a crowd on board the _Endeavour_. The
+natives came to bid farewell to their English friends, and to their
+countryman Tupia. Some overcome with silent sorrow shed tears, others,
+on the contrary, uttered piercing cries, with less of true grief than
+of affectation in their demonstrations.
+
+In the immediate neighbourhood of Tahiti were to be found, according
+to Tupia, four islands, Huaheine, Ulieta, Otaha, and Bolabola. He
+asserted that wild pigs, fowls, and other needful provisions could
+easily be obtained there. These commodities had become scarce in the
+latter part of the stay at Matavai. Cook, however, preferred visiting
+a small island called Tethuroa, about eight miles north of Tahiti, but
+the natives had no regular settlement, and he therefore considered it
+useless to wait there.
+
+When they came in sight of Huaheine, several pirogues approached the
+_Endeavour_, and it was only after they had recognized Tupia that the
+natives consented to come on board. King Orea, who was among the
+passengers, was greatly surprised at all the vessel contained. Soon
+reassured by the welcome of the English, he became so familiar as to
+wish to exchange names with Cook. During the entire stay in port, he
+always called himself "Cookee," and gave his own name to the captain.
+Anchor was cast in a convenient harbour, and the officers of this
+vessel on landing found the manners, the language, and the productions
+of this island identical with those of Tahiti.
+
+Seven or eight leagues south-west lay Ulietea. Cook landed there also,
+and solemnly took possession of this and the three neighbouring isles.
+He also profited by his stay to make hydrographical surveys of the
+shores, whilst a leak which had been found in the gun-room of the
+_Endeavour_, was attended to. After reconnoitring various other small
+islands, Cook gave the entire group the name of Society Isles.
+
+Cook sailed on the 7th of August; six days later he reconnoitred the
+island of Oteroah. The hostile demonstrations of the natives prevented
+the _Endeavour_ from remaining. She set sail for the south.
+
+On the 25th of August, the anniversary of their departure from England
+was celebrated by the crew. On the 1st of September, in 40 degrees 22
+minutes S. Lat., 174 degrees 29 minutes E. Long., the sea, agitated by
+a west wind, became very rough. The _Endeavour_ was obliged to put her
+head to the north, and to run before the storm. Up to the 3rd the
+weather continued the same, then it abated and it was possible to
+resume the westward route.
+
+In a few days, sundry indications of an island or a continent appeared,
+such as floating weeds, land-birds, &c.
+
+On the 5th of October the colour of the sea changed, and on the
+morning of the 6th, a coast running west by north-west was perceived.
+Nearer approach showed it to be of great extent. Unanimous opinion
+decided that the famous continent, so long looked for, so necessary
+for the equipoise of the world, known to cosmographers, as the
+"Unknown land of the South," was at last discovered!
+
+This land was the eastern shore of the most northerly of the two
+islands which have received the name of New Zealand.
+
+Smoke was perceived at different points, and the details of the shore
+were soon mastered. The hills were covered with verdure, and large
+trees were distinguishable in the valleys. Then houses were perceived,
+then pirogues, then the natives assembled on the strand. And lastly, a
+pallisade, high and regularly built, surrounded the summit of the hill.
+Opinions varied as to the nature of this object; some declaring it to
+be a deer park, others a cattle enclosure, not to speak of many
+equally ingenious surmises, which were all proved false, when later it
+turned out to be a "pah."
+
+Towards four o'clock on the afternoon of the 8th of October, anchor
+was cast in a bay at the mouth of a little river. On either side were
+white rocks; in the middle a brownish plain, rising by degrees, and
+joining by successive levels a chain of mountains, which appeared far
+in the interior. Such was the aspect of this portion of the shore.
+
+Cook, Banks, and Solander entered two small boats, accompanied by a
+part of the crew. As they approached the spot where the natives were
+assembled, the latter fled; this, however, did not prevent the English
+from landing, leaving four lads to guard one of the boats, whilst the
+other remained at sea.
+
+They had proceeded only a short distance from the boat, when four men,
+armed with long spears, emerged from the wood, and threw themselves
+upon it to take possession of it. They would have succeeded with ease,
+had not the crew of the boat out at sea perceived them, and cried out
+to the lads to let it drift with the current. They were pursued so
+closely by the enemy, that the master of the pinnace discharged his
+gun over the heads of the natives.
+
+[Illustration: "They were pursued so closely."]
+
+After a moment's hesitation, the natives continued their pursuit, when
+a second discharge stretched one of them dead on the spot. His
+companions made an effort to carry him away with them, but were
+obliged to abandon the attempt, as it retarded their flight. Hearing
+the firing, the officers who had landed went back to the vessel,
+whence they soon heard the natives returning to the shore, eagerly
+discussing the event.
+
+Still Cook desired to have friendly intercourse with them. He ordered
+three boats to be manned, and landed with Banks, Solander, and Tupia.
+Fifty or more natives seated on the shore awaited them. They were
+armed with long lances, and an instrument made of green talc, and
+highly polished, a foot long, which perhaps weighed four or five
+pounds. This was the "patou-patou," or toki, a kind of battle-axe, in
+talc or bone, with a very sharp edge. All rose at once and signed to
+the English to keep their distance.
+
+As soon as the marines landed, Cook and his companions advanced to the
+natives, whom Tupia told that the English had come with peaceful
+intentions, that they only wished for water and provisions, that they
+would pay for all that was brought them with iron, of which he
+explained the use. They saw, with pleasure, that the people, whose
+language was only a dialect of that spoken by the Tahitans, perfectly
+understood them. After some parleying, about thirty of the natives
+crossed the river. The strangers gave them iron and glass wares, on
+which they set no store; but one of them, having succeeded in
+possessing himself secretly of Mr. Green's cutlass, the others
+recommenced their hostile demonstrations, and it was necessary to fire
+at the robber, who was hit, when they all threw themselves into the
+river to gain the opposite shore.
+
+[Illustration: Tahitian flute-player. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+The various attempts at commercial intercourse with the people ended
+too unfortunately for Cook to persevere in them any longer. He
+therefore decided to find a watering-place elsewhere. Meanwhile, two
+pirogues, which were trying to regain the shore, were perceived. Cook
+took measures to intercept them; one escaped by rapid paddling, the
+other was caught, and although Tupia assured the natives that the
+English came as friends, they seized their weapons, and commenced
+attacking them. A discharge killed four, and three others, who threw
+themselves into the sea, were seized after a fierce resistance.
+
+The reflections which this sad incident suggested to Captain Cook, are
+much to his honour. They are in strong contradistinction to the
+ordinary method of proceeding then in vogue, and deserve to be
+repeated verbatim.
+
+"I cannot disguise from myself," he says, "that all humane and
+sensible people will blame me for having fired upon these unfortunate
+Indians, and I should be forced to blame myself for such an act of
+violence if I thought of it in cold blood. They certainly did not
+deserve death for refusing to trust to my promises, and to come on
+board, even if they suspected no danger; but my commission by its
+nature obliged me to take observations of their country, and I could
+only do so by penetrating into the interior, either by open force or
+by gaining the confidence and good will of the natives. I had tried
+unsuccessfully by means of presents and my anxiety to avoid new
+hostilities led me to attempt having some of them on board, as the
+sole method of persuading them that far from wishing to hurt them, we
+were disposed to be of use to them. So far, my intentions were
+certainly not criminal. It is true that during the struggle, which was
+unexpected by me, our victory might have been equally complete without
+taking the lives of four of these Indians, but it must also be
+remembered that in such a situation, the command to fire having once
+been given, one is no longer in a position to proscribe it, or to
+lighten its effect."
+
+The natives were welcomed on board, with every possible demonstration,
+if not to make them forget, at least to make them less sensible of the
+pain of remembering their capture, they were loaded with presents,
+adorned with bracelets and necklaces, but when they were told to land,
+they all declared, as the boats were directed to the mouth of the
+river, that it was an enemy's country, and that they would be killed
+and eaten. However, they were put on shore, and there is no reason to
+suppose that anything painful came of their adventure.
+
+Next day, the 11th of October, Cook left this miserable settlement. He
+named it Poverty Bay, because of all that he needed he had been able
+to procure but one thing--wood. Poverty Bay, in 38 degrees 42 minutes
+S. Lat., and 181 degrees 36 minutes W. Long., is of horse-shoe shape,
+and affords good anchorage, although it is open to the winds between
+south and east.
+
+Cook continued along the coast in a southerly direction, naming the
+most remarkable points, and bestowing the name of Portland upon an
+island which resembled that of the same name in the English Channel.
+His relations with the natives were everywhere inimical; if they did
+not break out into open outrage, it was owing to the English patience
+under every provocation.
+
+One day several pirogues surrounded the ship, and nails and glassware
+were exchanged for fish; when the natives seized Tayeto, Tupia's
+servant, and quickly paddled off.
+
+As it was necessary to fire at the robbers, the little Tahitan
+profited by the confusion, and jumping into the sea was soon picked up
+by the pinnace of the _Endeavour_.
+
+On the 17th of October, Cook, not having been able to find a suitable
+harbour, and considering himself, as the sea became more and more
+rough, to be losing time which might be better employed in
+reconnoitring the northern coast, tacked round and returned the way he
+had come.
+
+On the 23rd of October, the _Endeavour_ reached a bay called Tedago,
+where no swell was perceptible. The water was excellent, and it was
+easy to procure provisions, the more so as the natives appeared
+friendly.
+
+After having arranged everything for the safety of the workers, Messrs.
+Banks and Solander landed and collected plants, and in their walk they
+found many things worthy of note. Below the valley, surrounded by
+steep mountains, arose a rock so perforated, that from one side the
+sea could be seen through it, and from the other the long range of
+hills.
+
+Returning on board, the excursionists were stopped by an old man, who
+insisted upon their taking part in the military exercises of the
+country with the lance and the patou-patou.
+
+In the course of another walk, Dr. Solander bought a top exactly
+resembling European tops, and the natives made signs to show him that
+he must whip it to make it go.
+
+Upon an island to the left of the bay, the English saw the largest
+pirogue they had yet met with. It was no less than sixty-eight feet
+long, five wide, and three feet six inches high. It had in front a
+sculpture in relief, of grotesque taste, in which the lines were
+spiral and the figures strangely contorted.
+
+On the 30th of October, as soon as he was supplied with wood and water,
+Cook set sail and continued along the coast towards the north.
+
+Near an island, to which Cook had given the name of Mayor, the natives
+behaved most insolently, and were greater thieves than any previously
+encountered. It was, however, necessary to make a stay of five or six
+days in this district, to observe the transit of Mercury. With a view
+to impressing upon the natives that the English were not to be illused
+with impunity, a robber who had taken a piece of cloth was fired upon
+with grape shot, but although he received the discharge in the back,
+it had no more effect upon him than a violent blow with a rattan. But
+a bullet which struck the water and returning to the surface passed
+several times over the pirogues, struck such terror into the hearts of
+the natives, that they hastily paddled to the shore.
+
+On the 9th of November, Cook and Green landed to observe the transit
+of Mercury. Green only observed the passing, while Cook took the
+altitude of the sun.
+
+It is not our intention to follow the navigators in their thorough
+exploration of New Zealand.
+
+The same incidents were endlessly repeated, and the recital of the
+similar struggles with the natives, with descriptions of natural
+beauty, however attractive in themselves, could not but pall upon the
+reader. It is better, therefore, to pass rapidly over the hydrographic
+portion of the voyage, in order to devote ourselves to our picture of
+the manners of the natives, now so widely modified.
+
+Mercury Bay is situated at the foot of the long divided peninsula
+which, running from the east to the north-east, forms the northern
+extremity of New Zealand. On the 15th of November, as the _Endeavour_
+left the bay, several boats advanced towards her.
+
+"Two of their number," says the narrative, "which carried about sixty
+armed men, approached within hearing, and the natives began their
+war-song, but seeing that this attracted little attention, they began
+throwing stones at the English, and paddled along the shore. Soon they
+returned to the charge, evidently determined to fight the navigators,
+and encouraging themselves with their war cry."
+
+Without being incited to it, Tupia addressed them reproachfully, and
+told them that the English had arms, and were in a position to
+overpower them instantly. But they valiantly replied,--
+
+"Come to land, and we will kill you all!"
+
+"Directly," replied Tupia, "but why insult us as long as we are at
+sea? We have no wish to fight, and we will not accept your challenge,
+because there is no quarrel between us. The sea does not belong to you
+any more than to our ship."
+
+Tupia had not been credited with so much simple and true eloquence,
+and it surprised Cook and the other English.
+
+Whilst he was in the bay of the islands, the captain reconnoitred a
+considerable river, which he named after the Thames. It was shaded
+with trees, of the same species as those on Poverty Island. One of
+them measured nineteen feet in circumference at the height of six feet
+above the ground, another was not less than ninety feet long from the
+root to the lowest branches.
+
+Although quarrels with the natives were frequent, the latter were not
+invariably in the wrong.
+
+Kippis relates as follows:--
+
+"Some of the men on board, who, after the Indians had once been found
+in fault, did not fail to exhibit a severity worthy of Lycurgus,
+thought fit to enter a New Zealand plantation, and to carry off a
+quantity of potatoes. Captain Cook condemned them to a dozen stripes
+each. Two of them received them peaceably, but the third persisted
+that it was no crime for an Englishman to pillage Indian plantations.
+Cook's method of dealing with this casuist was to send him to the
+bottom of the hold until he agreed to receive six additional stripes."
+
+On the 30th of December the English doubled a cape which they took to
+be that of Maria Van Diemen, discovered by Tasman, but they were so
+assailed by threatening winds, that Cook only accomplished ten leagues
+in three weeks. Fortunately they kept at a uniform distance from shore
+all the time, otherwise we should probably have been spared the
+recital of their further adventures.
+
+On the 16th of January, 1770, after naming various portions of the
+eastern shore, Cook arrived in sight of an imposing peak, which was
+covered with snow, and which he named Mount Egmont in honour of the
+earl of that name.
+
+Scarcely had he doubled the peak, when he found that the coast
+described the arc of a circle. It was split up into numberless
+roadsteads, which Cook determined to enter, in order to allow of his
+ship being repaired and keeled.
+
+He landed at the bottom of a creek where he found a fine river and
+plenty of trees, for the forest only ceased at the sea for want of
+soil.
+
+The amicable relations with the natives at this point enabled him to
+inquire if they had ever seen a vessel like the _Endeavour_. But he
+found that even the traditions of Tasman's visit were forgotten,
+although he was only fifteen miles south of Assassin Bay.
+
+In one of the provision baskets of the Zealanders ten half gnawed
+bones were found. They did not look like a dog's bones, and on nearer
+inspection they turned out to be human remains. The natives in reply
+to the questions put to them, asserted that they were in the habit of
+eating their enemies. A few days later, they brought on board the
+_Endeavour_ seven human heads, to which hair and flesh still adhered,
+but the brains as being delicate morsels, were already picked. The
+flesh was soft, and no doubt was preserved from decay by some
+ingredient, for it had no unpleasant odour. Banks bought one of these
+heads after some difficulty, but he could not induce the old man who
+brought it to part with a second, probably because the New Zealanders
+considered them as trophies, and testimonies to their bravery.
+
+The succeeding days were devoted to a visit to the environs, and to
+some walks in the neighbourhood. During one of these excursions Cook,
+having climbed a high hill, distinctly perceived the whole of the
+strait to which he had given the name of Queen Charlotte, and the
+opposite shore, which appeared to him about four leagues distant.
+
+A fog made it impossible for him to see further to the south-east, but
+he had discerned enough to assure him that it was the final extent of
+the large island of which he had followed all the windings. He had now
+only to finish his discoveries in the south, which he proposed to do
+as soon as he had satisfied himself that Queen Charlotte's Sound was
+really a strait.
+
+Cook visited a pah in the neighbourhood. Built upon a little island or
+inaccessible rock, the pah was merely a fortified village. The natives
+most frequently add to the natural defences by fortifications, which
+render the approach still more perilous. Many were defended by a
+double ditch, the inner one having a parapet and double palisade. The
+second ditch was at least eighty feet in depth. On the inside of the
+palisade, at the height of twenty feet, was a raised platform forty
+feet long by six wide. Supported on two large poles, it was intended
+to hold the defenders of the place, who from thence could easily
+overwhelm the attacking party with darts and stones, of which an
+enormous supply was always ready in case of need.
+
+These strongholds cannot be forced, unless by means of a long blockade
+the inmates should be compelled to surrender.
+
+"It is surprising," as Cook remarks, "that the industry and care
+employed by them in building places so well adapted for defence,
+almost without the use of instruments, should not by the same means,
+have led them to invent a single weapon of any importance, with the
+sole exception of the spear they throw with the hand. They do not
+understand the use of a bow to throw a dart, or of a sling to fling a
+stone, which is the more astonishing, as the invention of slings, and
+bows and arrows is far more simple than the construction of these
+works by the people, and moreover these two weapons are met with in
+almost all parts of the world, in the most savage countries."
+
+On the 6th of February, Cook left the bay, and set sail for the east,
+in the hope of discovering the entrance to the strait before the ebb
+of the tide. At seven in the evening, the vessel was driven by the
+violence of the current to the close neighbourhood of a small island,
+outside Cape Koamaroo. Sharply pointed rocks rose from the sea. The
+danger increased momentarily, one only hope of saving the ship
+remained. It was attempted and succeeded. A cable's length was the
+distance between the _Endeavour_ and the rock when anchor was cast, in
+seventy-five fathoms of water. Fortunately the anchor found a hold,
+and the current changing its direction after touching the island,
+carried the vessel past the rock. But she was not yet in safety, for
+she was still in the midst of rocks, and the current made five miles
+an hour.
+
+However, the current decreased, the vessel righted herself, and the
+wind becoming favourable, she was speedily carried to the narrowest
+part of the strait, which she crossed without difficulty.
+
+The most northerly island of New Zealand, which is named Eaheinomauwe,
+was, however, as yet only partially known, there still remained some
+fifteen leagues unexplored.
+
+A few officers affirmed from this that it was a continent, and not an
+island, which was contrary to Cook's view. But although his own mind
+was made up, the captain directed his navigation with a view to clear
+up any doubt which might remain in the minds of his officers. After
+two days' voyage, in which Cape Palliser was passed, he called them up
+on the quarter deck and asked if they were satisfied. As they replied
+in the affirmative, Cook gave up his idea of returning to the most
+southerly point he had reached on the eastern coast of Eaheinomauwe,
+and determined to prolong his cruise the entire length of the land
+which he had found, and which was named Tawai-Pounamow.
+
+The coast was more sterile, and appeared uninhabited. It was necessary
+to keep four or five leagues from the shore.
+
+On the night of the 9th of March the _Endeavour_ passed over several
+rocks, and in the morning the crew discovered what dangers they had
+escaped. They named these reefs the Snares, as they appeared placed
+there to surprise unsuspecting navigators.
+
+[Illustration: A Fa-toka, New Zealand.]
+
+Next day, Cook reconnoitred what appeared to him to be the extreme
+south of New Zealand, and called it South Cape. It was the point of
+Steward Island. Great waves from the south-west burst over the vessel
+as it doubled this cape, which convinced Captain Cook that there was
+no land in that quarter. He therefore returned to the northern route,
+to complete the circumnavigation of New Zealand by the eastern coast.
+
+Almost at the southern extremity of this coast, a bay was discovered,
+which received the name of Dusky. This region was sterile, steep,
+covered with snow. Dusky Bay was three or four miles in width at its
+entrance, and appeared as deep as it was wide. Several islands were
+contained in it, behind which a vessel would have excellent shelter;
+but Cook thought it prudent not to remain there, as he knew that the
+wind, which would enable him to leave the bay, blew only once a month
+in these latitudes. He differed upon this point with several of his
+officers, who thinking only of the present advantage, did not reflect
+upon the inconveniences of a stay in port, the duration of which would
+be uncertain.
+
+No incident occurred during the navigation of the eastern coast of
+Tawai-Pounamow.
+
+From Dusky Bay, according to Cook, to 44 degrees 20 minutes latitude,
+there is a straight chain of hills which rise directly from the sea,
+and are covered with forests. Behind and close to these hills, are
+mountains which form another chain of prodigious height, composed of
+barren and jagged rocks, excepting in the parts where they are covered
+with snow, mostly in large masses. It is impossible to conceive a
+wilder prospect, or a more savage and frightful one than this country
+from the sea, because from every point of view nothing is visible but
+the summits of rocks; so close to each other that in lieu of valleys
+there are only fissures between them. From 44 degrees 20 minutes to 42
+degrees 8 minutes the aspect varies, the mountains are in the interior,
+hills and fruitful valleys border the coast.
+
+From 42 degrees 8 minutes to the 41 degrees 30 minutes the coast
+inclines vertically to the sea, and is covered with dark forests. The
+_Endeavour_, moreover, was too far from the shore, and the weather was
+too dark for it to be possible to distinguish minor details. After
+achieving the circumnavigation of the country, the vessel regained the
+entrance to Queen Charlotte Sound.
+
+Cook took in water and wood; then he decided on returning to England,
+following the route which permitted him best to fulfil the object of
+his voyage. To his keen regret, for he had greatly wished to decide
+whether or no the southern continent existed, it was as impossible for
+him to return to Europe by Cape Horn as by the Cape of Good Hope.
+
+In the middle of winter, in an extreme southerly latitude his vessel
+was in no condition to bring the enterprise to a successful issue. He
+had no choice, therefore, but to take the route for the East Indies,
+and to this end to steer westward to the eastern shores of New Holland.
+
+[Illustration: Interior of a morai in Hawai.]
+
+But before proceeding to the narration of the incidents of the second
+part of the campaign, it will be better to glance backward and to
+summarize the information upon the situation, productions, and
+inhabitants of New Zealand which the navigators had accumulated.
+
+We have already seen that this land had been discovered by Abel Tasman,
+and we have noted those incidents which were marked with traces of
+bloodshed when it was reconnoitred by the Dutch captain. With the
+exception of Tasman, in 1642, no European captain had ever visited its
+shores. It was so far unknown, that it was not even decided whether it
+formed a part of the southern continent, as Tasman supposed, when he
+named it Staten Island. To Cook belongs the credit of determining its
+position and of tracing the coasts of these two large islands,
+situated between 34 degrees and 48 degrees S. Lat. 180 degrees and 194
+degrees W. Long.
+
+Tawai-Pounamow was mountainous, sterile, and apparently very sparsely
+populated. Eaheinomauwe presented an attractive appearance, in its
+hills, mountains, and valleys covered with wood, and watered by bright
+flowing streams. Cook formed an opinion of the climate upon the
+remarks made by Banks and Solander, that,--
+
+"If the English settled in this country, it would cost them but little
+care and work to cultivate all that they needed in great abundance."
+
+[Illustration: Tatooed head of a New Zealander. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+As for quadrupeds, New Zealand afforded an asylum for dogs and rats
+only, the former reserved for food. But if the fauna was poor, the
+flora was rich. Among the vegetable products which attracted the
+English most, was one of which the narrative says,--
+
+"The natives used as hemp and flax, a plant which surpasses all those
+used for the same purposes in other countries. The ordinary dress of
+the New Zealanders is composed of leaves of this plant, with very
+little preparation. They fabricate their cords, lines, and ropes from
+it, and they are much stronger than those made with hemp, and to which
+they can be compared. From the same plant, prepared in another way,
+they draw long thin fibres, lustrous as silk and white as snow. Their
+best stuffs are manufactured from these fibres, and are of
+extraordinary strength. Their nets, of an enormous size, are composed
+of these leaves, the work simply consists in cutting them into
+suitable lengths and fastening them together." This wonderful plant,
+which was so enthusiastically described, in the lyrical account just
+quoted, and in the hardly less exuberant one which La Billadiere
+afterwards gave of it, is known in our day as _phornium tenax_.
+
+[Illustration: An i-pah. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+It was really necessary to subdue the expectations that these
+narratives excited! According to the eminent chemist Ducharte, the
+prolonged action of the damp heat, and above all bleaching,
+disintegrates the cellular particles of this plant, and after one or
+two washings, the tissues which are fabricated from it, are reduced to
+tow. Still it forms a considerable article of commerce. Mr. Alfred
+Kennedy, in his very curious work on New Zealand, tells us that in
+1865, only fifteen bales of _phornium_ were exported, that four years
+later the export amounted to the almost incredible number of 12,162
+bales, and in 1870 to 32,820 bales, valued at 132,578_l_.
+
+The inhabitants were tall and well proportioned, alert, vigorous, and
+intelligent. The women had not the delicate organization, and grace of
+form, which distinguish them in other countries; dressed like the men,
+they were recognizable only by their sweetness of voice and liveliness
+of expression. Although the natives of the same tribe were
+affectionate in their relations to each other, they were implacable to
+their enemies, and they gave no quarter; the dead bodies of their
+enemies afforded horrible festivities, which the want of other animal
+food explains, but can hardly excuse.
+
+[Illustration: A New Zealand family.]
+
+"Perhaps," says Cook, "it appears strange that there were frequent
+wars in a country where so few advantages follow victory." But besides
+the need of procuring meat, which led to the frequency of these wars,
+another cause for them, unknown to Cook, existed in the fact that the
+population consisted of two distinct races, naturally enemies of each
+other.
+
+Ancient tradition has it that the Maories came in the first instance,
+some thirteen hundred years ago, from the Sandwich Islands. There is
+reason for believing this to be correct, when one reflects that the
+beautiful Polynesian race peopled all the archipelago sprinkled
+throughout the Pacific Ocean.
+
+Leaving Haouaikai, which must be identical with Hawai, of the Sandwich
+Islands, or Sanai of the Navigator Archipelago, the Maories had
+repelled or possibly driven back the aboriginal population. In truth,
+the earliest colonists noticed two distinctly separate types in the
+New Zealanders. The one, and most important, unmistakably recalled the
+natives of Hawaii, the Marquisas, and Tonga Islands, whilst the other
+offered many resemblances to the Melanesian races.
+
+These particulars, collected by Freycinet, and recently confirmed by
+Hochsetten, are in perfect accord with the singular fact, recorded by
+Cook, that Tupia, a native of Tahiti, made himself readily understood
+by the New Zealanders.
+
+The migrations of the Polynesian tribes are thoroughly understood in
+these days, thanks to the wider knowledge of languages and
+anthropology, but they were scarcely suspected in the time of Cook,
+who, indeed, was one of the first to collect legends on the subject.
+
+"Every one of these tribes," he says, "traditionally believes that his
+forefathers came years ago from another country, and they all assert
+from the same tradition, that the country was called Heawise." The
+country at this time produced only one quadruped, the dog, and that
+was an alien. Thus the New Zealanders had no means of subsistence, but
+vegetables and a few fowls unknown to the English. Fortunately the
+inhabitants were saved from death by starvation by the abundance of
+fish. Accustomed to war, and looking upon all strangers as enemies,
+possibly seeing in them merely an edible commodity, the natives
+naturally attacked the English.
+
+Once convinced, however, of the utter inadequacy of their weapons, and
+of the powers of their adversaries, once convinced that the new comers
+avoided using those instruments which produced such terrific effects,
+they treated the navigators as friends, and conducted themselves
+towards them with surprising loyalty.
+
+If the natives usually met with by the navigators had little idea of
+decency or modesty, the same was not true of the New Zealanders, and
+Cook gives a curious example of this fact. Although not so clean as
+the natives of Tahiti, whose climate is much warmer, and although they
+bathed less often, they took a pride in their persons, and showed a
+certain coquetry. For instance, they greased their hair with an oil or
+fat obtained from fishes or birds, which becoming rank after awhile,
+made them as disagreeable to a refined sense of smell as the
+Hottentots.
+
+They were in the habit of tatooing themselves, and some of their tatoo
+designs demonstrated wonderful skill, and taste certainly not to be
+expected among this primitive race.
+
+The English were greatly surprised to find that the women devoted less
+attention to their attire than the men. Their hair was cut short and
+without ornament, and they wore clothes similar to those of their
+husbands. Their sole attempt at coquetry consisted in fastening the
+most extraordinary things to their ears, stuffs, feathers, fish-bones,
+bits of wood, not to mention green talc needles, the nails and teeth
+of their deceased parents, and generally everything they could lay
+hands on, which they suspended by means of thread.
+
+This recalls an adventure related by Cook, which happened to a Tahitan
+woman. This woman, envious of all she saw, wanted to have a padlock
+attached to her ear. She was allowed to take it, and then the key was
+thrown into the sea before her. After a certain time, either because
+the weight of this singular ornament worried her, or because she
+wished to replace it by another, she begged to have it removed. The
+request was refused, upon the ground that her demand was foolish, and
+that as she had wished for this singular ear-ring, it was fair that
+she should put up with its inconveniences.
+
+The clothing of the New Zealanders consisted of one piece of stuff,
+something between reed or cloth, attached to the shoulders and falling
+to the knees, and of a second rolled round the waist, which reached to
+the ground. But the latter was not an invariable part of their dress.
+Thus, when they had on only the upper part of their costume, and they
+squatted, they presented the appearance of thatched roofs.
+
+Their coverings were sometimes trimmed in a most elegant manner, by
+means of various coloured fringes, and more rarely with dogskin cut
+into strips. But the industry of these people was especially shown in
+the construction of their pirogues.
+
+Their war-vessels contained from forty to fifty armed men, and one of
+them, measured at Ulaga, was no less than sixty-eight feet long. It
+was beautifully ornamented with open work and decorated with fringes
+of black feathers. The smaller ones generally had poles. Occasionally
+two pirogues were joined together. The fishing-boats were ornamented
+at the prow and the poop by the face of a grinning man with hideous
+features, lolling tongue and eyes made of white shells. Two pirogues
+were often coupled, and the very smallest carried only the poles
+needed to preserve their equilibrium.
+
+"The usual cause of illnesses," remarks Cook, "being intemperance and
+want of exercise, it is not surprising that these people rejoice in
+perfect health. Each time that we went to their settlements, men,
+women, and children surrounded us, excited by the same curiosity which
+caused us to look at them. We never saw one who appeared affected by
+illness, and amongst all that we saw naked we never remarked the
+smallest eruption on the skin, nor any trace of spots or sores."
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+Reconnoitring the Eastern Coast of Australia--Remarks on the natives
+and productions of the country--The _Endeavour_ stranded--Perpetual
+dangers of navigation--Crossing Torres Straits--The natives of New
+Guinea--Return to England.
+
+
+On the 31st of March, Cook left Cape Farewell and New Zealand,
+steering westward. On the 19th of April, he perceived land which
+extended from north-east to west, in 37 degrees 58 minutes S. Lat. and
+210 degrees 39 minutes W. Long.
+
+In his opinion, judging by Tasman's chart, this was the country called
+Van Diemen's Land. In any case, he was unable to ascertain whether the
+portion of the coast before him belonged to Tasmania. He named all the
+points on his northern voyage, Hick's Point, Ram Head, Cape Howe,
+Dromedary Mount, Upright Point, Pigeon House, &c.
+
+This part of Australia is mountainous, and covered with various kinds
+of trees.
+
+[Illustration: Map of Australia, after Perron's atlas.]
+
+Smoke announced it to be inhabited, but the sparse population ran away
+as soon as the English prepared to land.
+
+The first natives seen were armed with long lances and a piece of wood
+shaped like a scimitar. This was the famous "boomerang," so effective
+a weapon in the hands of the natives, so useless in that of Europeans.
+
+The faces of the natives were covered with white powder, their bodies
+were striped with lines of the same colour, which, passing obliquely
+across the chest, resembled the shoulder-belts of soldiers. On their
+thighs and legs they had circles of the same kind, which would have
+appeared like gaiters had not the natives been entirely naked.
+
+A little further on the English once more attempted to land. But two
+natives whom they had previously endeavoured to propitiate by throwing
+them nails, glassware, and other trifles, made such menacing
+demonstrations, that they were obliged to fire over their heads. At
+first they seemed stunned by the detonation, but as they found that
+they were not wounded, they commenced hostilities by throwing stones
+and javelins. A volley of bullets struck the oldest in his legs. The
+unfortunate native rushed at once to one of the cabins, but returned
+with a shield to continue the fight, which was shortly ended, when he
+was convinced of his powerlessness.
+
+The English seized the opportunity to land, and reach the houses,
+where they found several spears. In the same bay, they landed some
+casks for water, but communication with the natives was hopeless; they
+fled immediately on the advance of the English.
+
+During an excursion on land, Cook, Banks, and Solander found traces of
+various animals. The birds were plentiful, and remarkably beautiful.
+The great number of plants discovered by the naturalists in this part,
+induced Cook to give it the name of Botany Bay. "This bay is," he says,
+"large, safe, and convenient; it is situated in 34 degrees S. Lat.,
+and 208 degrees 37 minutes W. Long." Wood and water were easily
+procurable there.
+
+"The trees," according to Cook, "were at least as large as the oaks of
+England, and I saw one which somewhat resembled them. It is that one
+which distils a red gum like 'Dragon's blood.'"
+
+No doubt this was a species of Eucalyptus. Among the various kinds of
+fishes which abound in these latitudes is the thorn-back skate, one of
+which, even after cleaning, weighed three hundred and thirty-six
+pounds.
+
+On the 6th of May, Cook left Botany Bay, and continued to coast to the
+north at two or three miles distance from the shore. The navigation
+along this coast was sufficiently monotonous. The only incidents which
+imparted a slight animation, were the sudden and unexpected
+differences in the depth of the sea, caused by the line of breakers
+which it was necessary to avoid.
+
+[Illustration: Map of the east coast of New Holland, after Cook. Grave
+par E. Morieu.]
+
+Landing a little further on, the navigators ascertained that the
+country was inferior to that surrounding Botany Bay.
+
+The soil was dry and sandy, the sides of the hills were sparsely
+covered with isolated trees and free from brush-wood. The sailors
+killed a bustard, which was pronounced to be the best game eaten since
+leaving England. Hence, this point was named Bustard Bay. Numbers of
+bivalves were found there, especially small pearl oysters.
+
+On the 25th of May, the _Endeavour_ being a mile from land, was
+opposite a point which exactly crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. The
+following day, it was ascertained that the sea rose and fell seven
+feet. The flow was westward, and the ebb eastward, just the reverse of
+the case in Botany Bay. In this spot islands were numerous, the
+channel narrow and very shallow.
+
+On the 29th, Cook landed with Banks and Solander in a large bay, in
+search of a spot where he could have the keel and bottom of his vessel
+repaired, but they were scarcely on terra firma, when they found their
+progress impeded by a thick shrub, prickly and studded with sharp
+seeds, no doubt a species of "_spinifex_," which clung to the clothes,
+pierced them, and penetrated the flesh. At the same time, myriads of
+gnats and mosquitoes attacked them, and covered them with painful
+bites.
+
+A suitable spot for repairs was found, but a watering-place was sought
+in vain. Gum-trees growing here and there were covered with enormous
+ants' nests, and soon deprived of gum by those insects. Numerous
+brilliantly-coloured butterflies hovered over the explorers.
+
+These were curious facts, interesting from more than one point of view,
+but they failed to satisfy the captain, who was eager to replenish his
+water supply.
+
+From the first, the great defect of this country was apparent. It
+consists in the absence of streams, springs, and rivers!
+
+A second excursion made during the evening of the same day was equally
+barren of good results. Cook ascertained that the bay was very deep,
+and decided on making the circuit of it in the morning.
+
+He soon discovered that the width of the channel by which he entered
+increased rapidly, and that it ultimately formed a vast lake
+communicating with the sea to the north-west. Another arm stretched
+eastwards, and it was conceivable that the lake had a second outlet
+into the sea at the bottom of the bay.
+
+Cook named this part of Australia New South Wales. Sterile, sandy, dry,
+it lacked all that was most necessary for the establishment of a
+colony. And the English could not ascertain from their cursory
+inspection or hydrographical examination that, mineralogically
+speaking, it was one of the richest countries of the New World.
+
+The navigation was monotonously continued from the 31st of May to the
+10th of June. On this latter date the _Endeavour_, after passing
+safely along an unknown coast, in the midst of shallows and breakers,
+for a space of 22 degrees or 1300 miles, was all at once exposed to a
+greater danger than any which had been apprehended.
+
+They were in 16 degrees S. Lat. and 214 degrees 39 minutes W. Long.
+when Cook, seeing two islets lying low and covered with trees, gave
+orders to keep well out to sea during the night, so as to look for the
+islands discovered by Quiros in these latitudes, an archipelago which
+some geographers had maintained was united to the mainland.
+
+Shortly after nine in the evening the soundings taken every quarter of
+an hour showed constantly decreasing depth. All crowded to the deck.
+The water became deeper. It was concluded that the vessel had passed
+over the extremity of the sand-banks seen at sunset, and all rejoiced
+at escape from danger. When the depth increased, Cook and all but the
+officers of the watch retired to their berths, but at eleven o'clock
+the sounding-line, after indicating twenty fathoms, suddenly recorded
+seventeen, and before it was possible to cast anchor, the _Endeavour_
+had touched, and beaten by the waves, struck upon a rock.
+
+The situation was a serious one. The _Endeavour_, raised by a wave
+over the ridge of a reef, had fallen again into a hollow in the rock,
+and by the moonlight, portions of the false keel and the sheathing
+could be seen floating.
+
+Unfortunately the accident happened at high water. It was useless
+therefore to count upon the assistance of the tide to release the ship.
+Without loss of time the guns, barrels, casks, ballast, and all that
+could lighten the vessel, were thrown overboard. The vessel still
+struck against the rock. The sloop was put to sea, the sails and
+topsails were lowered, the tow-lines were thrown to the starboard, and
+the captain was about to order the anchor to be cast on the same side,
+when it was discovered that the water was deeper at the stern. But
+although the capstan was vigorously worked, it was impossible to move
+the vessel.
+
+Daybreak disclosed the position in all its horrors. Land was eight
+leagues distant, not a single isle was visible between the ship and
+land where refuge might be found if, as was to be feared, the vessel
+broke up. Although she had been lightened of fifty tons weight, the
+sea only gained a foot and a half.
+
+Fortunately the wind fell, otherwise the _Endeavour_ must soon have
+been a wreck. However, the leak increased rapidly, although the pumps
+were worked incessantly. A third was put into action. The alternative
+was dreadful! If the vessel were freed, it must sink when no longer
+sustained by the rock, while if it remained fixed, it must be
+demolished by the waves which rent its planks asunder. The boats were
+too small to carry all the crew to land at one time.
+
+Under such circumstances was there not danger that discipline would be
+thrown to the winds? Who could tell whether a fratricidal struggle
+might not ensue? And even should some of the sailors reach land, what
+fate could be in store for them upon an inhospitable shore, where nets
+and fire-arms would scarcely procure them nourishment?
+
+What would become of those who were obliged to remain on board? Every
+one shared these fears, but so strong a sense of duty prevailed, so
+much was the captain beloved by his crew, that the terrors of the
+situation evoked no single cry, no disorder of any kind. The strength
+of the men not employed at the pumps was wisely harboured for the
+moment when their fate should be decided.
+
+Measures were so skilfully taken, that when the sea rose to its height,
+all the officers and crew worked the capstan, and as the vessel was
+disengaged from the rock, it was ascertained that she drew no more
+water than when on the reef. But the sailors were exhausted after
+twenty-four hours of such terrible anxiety. It was necessary to change
+the hands at the pumps every five minutes.
+
+A new disaster was now added. The man whose duty it was to measure the
+water in the hold, announced that it had increased to eighteen inches
+in a few moments. Fortunately the mistake of the measure taken was
+immediately ascertained, and the crew were so overjoyed that they
+fancied all danger over.
+
+An officer named Monkhouse conceived an excellent idea. He applied a
+sort of cap to the stern, which he filled in with wool, rope-yarn, and
+the intestines of the animals slaughtered on board, and so effected a
+stoppage of the leak. From this time the men, who spoke of driving the
+vessel on a coast to reconstruct another from its ruins, which might
+take them to the East Indies, thought only of finding a suitable
+harbour for the purpose.
+
+The desirable harbour was reached on the 17th of June, at the mouth of
+a current which Cook called Endeavour River.
+
+The necessary labours for the careening of the vessel were at once
+begun and carried on with the utmost rapidity.
+
+The sick were landed, and the staff visited the land several times, in
+the hope of killing some game, and procuring fresh meat for the
+sufferers from scurvy. Tupia saw an animal which Banks, from his
+description, imagined to have been a wolf. But a few days later
+several others were seen, who jumped upon their fore feet, and took
+enormous leaps. They were kangaroos, marsupial animals, only met with
+in Australia, and which had never before seen a European. The natives
+in this spot appeared far less savage than on other parts of the coast.
+They not only allowed the English to approach, but treated them
+cordially, and remained several days with them.
+
+[Illustration: "They were kangaroos."]
+
+The narrative says,--
+
+"They were usually of medium height, but their limbs were remarkably
+small. Their skin was the colour of soot, or rather, it might be
+described as of deep chocolate colour. Their hair was black and not
+woolly, and was cut short; some wore it plaited, some curled. Various
+portions of their bodies were painted red, and one of them had white
+stripes on his lips and breast which he called 'carbanda.' Their
+features were far from disagreeable; they had very bright eyes, white
+and even teeth, and their voices were sweet and musical. Some among
+them wore a nose-ornament which Cook had not met with in New Zealand.
+It was a bone, as large as a finger, passed through the cartilage.
+
+"A little later a quarrel arose. The crew had taken possession of some
+tortoises which the natives claimed, without having in the least
+assisted in capturing them. When they found that their demand was not
+acceded to, they retired in fury, and set fire to the shrubs in the
+midst of which the English encampment was situated. The latter lost
+all their combustible commodities in the conflagration, and the fire,
+leaping from hill to hill, afforded a magnificent spectacle during the
+night."
+
+Meantime Messrs. Banks, Solander, and others, enjoyed many successful
+hunts. They killed kangaroos, opossums, a species of pole-cat, wolves,
+and various kinds of serpents, some of which were venomous. They also
+saw numbers of birds, kites, hawks, cockatoos, orioles, paroquets,
+pigeons, and other unknown birds.
+
+[Illustration: Tahitian fleet off Oparee. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+After leaving Endeavour River, Cook had good opportunities of testing
+the difficulties of navigation in these latitudes. Rocks and shallows
+abounded. It was necessary to cast anchor in the evening, for it was
+impossible to proceed at night through this labyrinth of rocks without
+striking. The sea, as far as the eye could reach, appeared to dash
+upon one line of rocks more violently than upon the others; this
+appeared to be the last.
+
+Upon arriving there, after five days' struggle with a contrary wind,
+Cook discovered three islands stretching four or five leagues to the
+north. But his difficulties were not over. The vessel was once more
+surrounded by reefs and chains of low islets, amongst which it was
+impossible to venture.
+
+Cook was inclined to think it would be more prudent to return and seek
+another passage. But such a detour would have consumed too much time,
+and have retarded his arrival in the East Indies. Moreover there was
+an insurmountable obstacle to this course. Three months' provisions
+were all that remained.
+
+The situation appeared desperate, and Cook decided to steer as far as
+possible from the coast, and to try and pass the exterior line of
+rocks. He soon found a channel, which shortly brought them to the open
+sea.
+
+"So happy a change in the situation," says Kippis, "was received with
+delight. The English were full of it, and openly expressed their joy.
+For nearly three months they had been in perpetual danger. When at
+night they rested at anchor, the sound of an angry sea forced them to
+remember that they were surrounded by rocks, and that, should the
+cable break, shipwreck was inevitable. They had travelled over 360
+miles, and were forced to keep a man incessantly throwing the line and
+sounding the rocks through which they navigated. Possibly no other
+vessel could furnish an example of such continued effort."
+
+Had they not just escaped so terrible a danger, the English would have
+had cause for uneasiness in reflecting upon the length of way that
+remained to them across a sea but little known, upon a vessel which
+let in nine inches of water in an hour. With pumps out of repair and
+provisions almost consumed, the navigators only escaped these terrible
+dangers to be exposed on the 16th of April to a peril of equal
+magnitude.
+
+Carried by the waves to a line of rocks above which the sea spray
+washed to a prodigious height, making it impossible to cast anchor;
+without a breath of wind, they had but one resource, to lower boats to
+tow the vessel off. In spite of the sailors' efforts the _Endeavour_
+was still only 100 paces from the reef, when a light breeze, so slight
+that under better circumstances no one would have noticed it, arose
+and disengaged the vessel. But ten minutes later it fell, the currents
+strongly returned, and the _Endeavour_ was once more carried within
+200 feet of the breakers.
+
+After many unsuccessful attempts, a narrow opening was perceived.
+
+"The danger it offered was less imminent than that of remaining in so
+terrible a situation," says the narrative. "A light breeze which
+fortunately sprang up, the efforts of the boats, and the tide,
+conveyed the ship to the opening, across which she passed with
+frightful rapidity. The strength of the current prevented the
+_Endeavour_ from touching either shore of the channel, which, however,
+was but a mile in width, and extremely unequal in depth, giving now
+thirty fathoms, now only seven of foul bottom."
+
+If we have lingered somewhat over the incidents of this voyage, it is
+because it was accomplished in unknown seas, in the midst of breakers
+and currents, which, sufficiently dangerous for a sailor when they are
+marked on a map, become much more so when, as was the case with Cook,
+since leaving the coast of New Holland, the voyage is made in the face
+of unknown obstacles, which all the instinct and keen vision of the
+sailor cannot always successfully surmount.
+
+One last question remained to be solved,--
+
+Were New Holland and New Guinea portions of one country? Were they
+divided by an arm of the sea, or by a strait?
+
+In spite of the dangers of such a course, Cook approached the shore,
+and followed the coast of Australia towards the north.
+
+On the 21st he doubled the most northerly cape of New Holland, to
+which he gave the name of Cape York, and entered a channel sprinkled
+with islands near the mainland, which inspired him with the hope of
+finding a passage to the Indian Ocean.
+
+Once more he landed, and planting the English flag, solemnly took
+possession in the name of King George, of the entire Eastern Coast
+from the eighteenth degree of latitude to this spot, situated in 107
+degrees south. He gave the name of New South Wales to this territory,
+and to fitly conclude the ceremony, he caused three salutes to be
+fired.
+
+Cook next penetrated Torres Strait, which he called Endeavour Strait,
+discovered and named the Wallis Islands, situated in the middle of the
+south-west entrance to Booby Island, and Prince of Wales Island, and
+steered for the southern coast of New Guinea, which he followed until
+the 3rd of September without being able to land.
+
+Upon that day Cook landed with about eleven well-armed men, amongst
+them Solander, Banks, and his servants. They were scarcely a quarter
+of a mile from their ship, when three Indians emerged from the wood,
+uttering piercing cries, and rushed at the English.
+
+"The one who came nearest," says the narrative, "threw something which
+he carried at his side, with his hand, and it burned like gunpowder,
+but we heard no report."
+
+[Illustration: Three Indians emerged from the wood.]
+
+Cook and his companions were obliged to fire upon the natives in order
+to regain their ship, from whence they could examine them at their
+leisure. They resembled the Australians entirely, and like them, wore
+their hair short, and were perfectly naked--only their skin was less
+dark; no doubt because they were less dirty.
+
+"Meantime the natives struck their fire at intervals, four or five at
+a time. We could not imagine what this fire could be, nor their object
+in throwing it.
+
+"They held in the hand a short stick, perhaps a hollow cane, which
+they flourished from side to side, and at the same instant we saw the
+fire and smoke exactly as it flashes from a gun, and it lasted no
+longer. We observed this astonishing phenomenon from the vessel, and
+the illusion was so great that those on board believed the Indians had
+fire-arms, and we ourselves should have imagined they fired guns, but
+that our ship was so close that in such a case we must have heard the
+explosion."
+
+This fact remains unexplained, in spite of the many commentaries it
+has occasioned, and which bear out the testimony of the great
+navigator.
+
+Many of the English officers demanded immediate permission to land in
+search of cocoa-nuts arid other fruits, but the captain was unwilling
+to risk his sailors' lives in so futile an attempt; he was, besides,
+anxious to reach Batavia, to obtain repairs for his vessel. He thought
+it useless, moreover, to remain a longer time in these latitudes. They
+had been so often visited by the Spanish and Dutch, that there were no
+further discoveries to make.
+
+In passing Arrow and Wesel Islands he rectified their positions, and
+reaching Timor, put into port in Savu Island, where the Dutch had been
+settled for some time. There Cook revictualled, and by accurate
+observations settled its position at 10 degrees 35 minutes southern
+latitude, and 237 degrees 30 minutes west longitude.
+
+After a short interval the _Endeavour_ arrived at Batavia, where she
+was repaired.
+
+But the stay in that unhealthy country was fatal after such severe
+fatigue. Endemic fevers raged there; and Banks, Solander, and Cook, as
+well as the greater part of the crew, fell ill. Many died, amongst
+them Monkhouse, the surgeon, Tupia, and little Tayeto. Ten men only
+escaped the fever.
+
+The _Endeavour_ set sail on the 27th of December, and on the 15th of
+January, 1771, put into Prince of Wales Island for victuals.
+
+From that moment, sickness increased among the crew. Twenty-three men
+died, amongst them Green, the astronomer, who was much regretted.
+
+After a stay at the Cape of Good Hope, where he met with the welcome
+he so sorely needed, Cook re-embarked, touched at St. Helena, and
+anchored in the Downs on the 11th of June, 1772, after an absence of
+nearly four years.
+
+"Thus," says Kippis, "ended Cook's first voyage, a voyage in which he
+had experienced such dangers, discovered so many countries, and so
+often evinced his superiority of character. He was well worthy of the
+dangerous enterprise and of the courageous efforts to which he had
+been called."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE.
+
+
+I.
+
+Search for the Southern Continent--Second stay at New Zealand--
+Pomontou Archipelago--Second stay at Tahiti--Reconnoitring Tonga
+Isles--Third stay at New Zealand--Second crossing of the Southern
+Ocean--Easter Island reconnoitred--Visit to the Marquesas Islands.
+
+
+Had the government not been desirous of rewarding James Cook for the
+way in which he had fulfilled the mission entrusted to him, the
+unanimous voice of the public would have constrained them. On the 29th
+of August he received the rank of commander in the Royal Navy. But the
+great navigator, proud of the services he had rendered to England and
+to science, thought the reward less than his achievements merited. He
+would have delighted in an appointment as ship's captain, but Lord
+Sandwich, who was then at the head of the Admiralty, pointed out to
+him, that it was not possible to gratify him without upsetting all
+established customs, and injuring the discipline of the Royal Navy.
+
+However, Cook busied himself in putting together the necessary
+materials for the narration of his experiences; but, being soon
+occupied with still more important matters, he placed them in the
+hands of Dr. Hawkesworth, who was to superintend their publication.
+
+At the same time, the observations he had taken on the transit of
+Mercury in concert with Mr. Green, his calculations and astronomical
+solutions, were submitted to the consideration of the Royal Society,
+and that learned body at once recognized his merit.
+
+In one respect, however, the important results obtained by Cook were
+incomplete. He had not perfectly proved the impossibility of an
+antarctic continent. This chimera was still dear to the hearts of
+scientific men. Although obliged to admit that neither New Zealand nor
+Australia made part of such a continent, and that the _Endeavour_ had
+navigated in latitudes in which it might have been found, they still
+affirmed that it would be found still more south, and reiterated all
+those advantages which its discovery would entail.
+
+The government determined to settle a question which had been
+discussed for so many years, and to despatch an expedition for the
+purpose. Its commander was easily selected. The nature of the voyage
+demanded vessels of peculiar construction. As the _Endeavour_ had been
+sent to the Falkland Islands, the Admiralty gave orders for the
+purchase of the two suitable vessels for the purpose.
+
+Cook was consulted, and insisted that the ships should be solidly
+built, draw little water, and possess capacity for carrying provisions
+and ammunition in proportion to the number of the crew and the length
+of the voyage.
+
+The Admiralty accordingly bought two vessels, constructed at Whitby,
+by the same ship-builder as the _Endeavour_. The larger was of 462
+tons burden, and was named the _Resolution_, the second was only of
+336 tons, and was called the _Adventure_.
+
+Cook received command of the _Resolution_, and Captain Tobias Furneaux,
+second lieutenant of the _Wallis_, was raised to the command of the
+_Adventure_. The second and third officers, and several of the crew
+had already served in the _Endeavour_.
+
+It may readily be imagined that every possible care was taken in the
+equipment of these ships. Lord Sandwich and Captain Palliser
+themselves superintended every detail.
+
+Each of the ships was stocked with provisions of every kind for two
+years and a half.
+
+Very extraordinary articles were provided at the instance of Captain
+Cook, who claimed them as anti-scorbutics, for instance, malt, sour
+krout, salted cabbages, soup-slabs, mustard and saloop, as well as
+carrot marmalade, and thickened and unfermented beer, which was tried
+at the suggestion of Baron Storch of Berlin, and Mr. Pelham, secretary
+to the Commissariat department.
+
+Equal care was taken to ship two small boats, each of twenty tons,
+intended to carry the crew in case of shipwreck.
+
+William Hodges, a landscape painter, two naturalists, John Reinhold
+Forster and his son George; two astronomers, W. Wales and W. Bayley,
+accompanied the expedition, provided with the best instruments for
+observation.
+
+Nothing that could conduce to the success of the adventure was
+neglected. It was to return with an immense amount of collected
+information, which was to contribute to the progress of the natural
+and physical sciences, and to the ethnology of navigation and
+geography.
+
+Cook says, "I received my instructions at Plymouth dated 25th June.
+They enjoined my immediate departure for the island of Madeira. To
+ship wine there, and thence to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, where
+I was to let the crew have a spree on shore, and obtain the provisions
+and other stores I needed. To advance southwards and endeavour to find
+Circumcision Cape, which was said to have been discovered by M. Bouvet,
+in the 54 degrees southern parallel, and about 11 degrees 20 minutes
+east longitude, reckoning from Greenwich. If I found this cape, to
+ascertain whether it was part of the continent or an island. Should it
+prove the former, to neglect no opportunity of investigating its
+possible extent. To collect facts of every kind which might be useful
+to navigation and commerce, or would tend to the progress of the
+natural sciences. I was desired to observe the spirit, temperament,
+character, and means of the inhabitants, should there be any, and to
+use every fair means of forming friendly alliances with them.
+
+"My instructions proceeded to enjoin me to seek discoveries in the
+east or west, according to the position in which I might find myself,
+and advised my nearing the south pole as much as possible, and as long
+as the condition of the ships, the health of the crew, and the
+provisions allowed of my doing so. To be careful in any case to
+reserve sufficient provisions to reach some known port, where I might
+refit for my return to England.
+
+"In addition, I was ordered, if I found Circumcision Cape to be an
+island, or if I did not succeed in finding it, in the first case to
+take the necessary bearings, and in both to sail southward as long as
+I still hoped to find the continent. Then to proceed eastward, to look
+for this continent, and to discover the islands which might be
+situated in this part of the southern hemisphere. To remain in high
+latitudes and to prosecute my discoveries, as had been already said,
+as near the pole as possible, until I had completed the navigation of
+the world, and finally to repair to the Cape of Good Hope, and from
+thence to Spithead."
+
+Cook left Plymouth harbour on the 13th of July, and on the 29th of the
+same month he arrived at Funchal, in Madeira. Here he took in
+provisions, and continued his route southwards. But being shortly
+convinced that his supply of water would not hold out until he reached
+the Cape of Good Hope, he determined to break the voyage by putting in
+at Cape Verd Islands, and on the 10th of August he anchored in Praya
+Port, which he left four days later.
+
+Cook availed himself of his stay in this port, as he usually did, to
+collect every fact which might be useful to navigators. His
+description is the more valuable now, as these parts have completely
+changed in character, and the conditions of a stay in port have been
+greatly modified by the improvements accomplished there.
+
+On the 23rd of the same month, after violent squalls which had driven
+every one on deck, Cook, aware of the pernicious effect of the damp of
+warm climates, and always on the alert to keep his crew in good health,
+gave orders to aerate (renew the air) in the between decks. He even
+had a fire lighted in order to smoke it, and dry it quickly, and not
+only took the precautions advocated by Lord Sandwich, and Sir Hugh
+Palliser, but also those which the experience of his last voyage
+suggested to him.
+
+Thanks to all these efforts at prevention there was not a single sick
+case on board the _Resolution_ when she arrived at the Cape of Good
+Hope on the 30th of October. Cook, in company with Captain Furneaux,
+and Messrs. Foster, went to pay a visit to the Dutch governor, Baron
+de Plettemberg, who placed all the resources of the colony at his
+disposal. There he found that two French ships, which had left the
+island of Mauritius in March, had touched at the Cape before
+proceeding to the southern seas where they were to prosecute
+discoveries, under command of Captain Marion.
+
+During this stay in port, which was longer than they expected, Forster
+met the Swedish botanist Sparman, a pupil of Linnaeus, and engaged him
+to accompany him, by promising him large pay. It is difficult to
+praise Forster's disinterestedness under these circumstances too
+highly. He had no hesitation in admitting a rival, and even paid his
+expenses, in order to add completeness to the studies in natural
+history which he wished to make in the countries he was about to visit.
+
+Anchor was weighed on the 22nd of November, and the two ships resumed
+their course southwards, in search of Cape Circumcision, discovered by
+Captain Bouvet, on the 1st of January, 1739. As the temperature would
+rapidly become colder, Cook distributed the warm clothes, furnished by
+the Admiralty, to his sailors. From the 29th of November till the 6th
+of December a frightful tempest prevailed. The ships, driven out of
+their course, were carried to the east, to such a degree that they
+were forced to resume the search for Circumcision Cape. Another
+consequence of the bad weather, and of the sudden change from heat to
+extreme cold was the death of all the animals embarked at the Cape.
+And lastly, the sailors suffered so much from the damp, that it was
+necessary to increase the rations of brandy to stimulate them to work.
+
+On the 10th of December, in 50 degrees 40 minutes southern latitude
+the first ice was met with. Rain and snow succeeded each other
+uninterruptedly. The fog soon became so dense, that the crews did not
+perceive a floating iceberg, until they were a mile past it. "One of
+these," says the narrative, "was not less than 200 feet high, 400 wide,
+and 2000 long.
+
+"Taking it as probable, that this piece was of absolutely equal size,
+its depth beneath the water, would have been 1800 feet, and its height
+about 2000 feet, and from the dimensions just given its entire bulk
+must have contained 1600 million cubic feet of ice."
+
+[Illustration: Among the icebergs.]
+
+As they proceeded further south the icebergs increased. The sea was so
+rough, that the waves climbed these glacial blocks, and fell on the
+other side in fine impalpable dust. The scene filled the observers
+with admiration. But this was soon succeeded by terror, upon the
+reflection that if the vessel struck one of these enormous masses, she
+must be dashed to pieces. The presence of danger soon, however,
+produced indifference, and more thought was bestowed upon the sublime
+beauty, than upon the strife with this terrible element.
+
+Upon the 14th of December, an enormous iceberg, which closed in the
+horizon, prevented the two vessels from proceeding southwards, and it
+became absolutely necessary to skirt it.
+
+It did not present an unbroken surface, for hillocks were visible on
+it, similar to those met on the previous days. Some thought they
+distinguished land under the ice, even Cook for the moment was
+deceived, but as the fog lifted the mistake was easily rectified.
+
+Next day the vessels were driven before a strong current. The elder
+Forster and Wales, the astronomer, embarked in a small boat to
+ascertain its swiftness. Whilst thus engaged, the fog became so dense,
+that they completely lost sight of the ship. In this miserable boat,
+without instruments or provisions, in the midst of the wide ocean, far
+from any coast, surrounded by ice, their situation was dreadful. They
+left off rowing, lest they should get farther from the ship. They were
+losing all hope when the sound of a distant bell fell upon their ears.
+They rowed swiftly in the direction of the sound. The _Adventure_
+replied to their shouts and picked them up after several hours of
+terrible suspense.
+
+The generally received opinion was, that the ice floats collected in
+the bays or mouths of rivers. The explorers, therefore, imagined
+themselves near land, which would prove to be situated in the south
+behind the vast iceberg.
+
+They were thirty leagues to the west of it, before they found an
+opening in the ice which might lead to the south. The captain then
+determined to steer an equal distance to the east. Should he not find
+land, he at least hoped to double the iceberg, and penetrate in
+advance of it to the pole, and thereby settle the doubts of all the
+physicists.
+
+But although it was the middle of summer in this part of the world,
+the cold became daily more intense. The sailors complained of it, and
+symptoms of scurvy appeared on board.
+
+Warmer clothes were distributed, and recourse was had to the remedies
+usual in such cases, malt and lemon-juice, which soon overcame the
+malady, and enabled the crews to bear the severity of the temperature.
+
+On the 29th of December, Cook ascertained positively that the iceberg
+was joined to no land. He therefore decided to proceed eastward as far
+as the parallel of Cape Circumcision, that is, if no obstacle
+prevented him.
+
+He had scarcely put this resolve into execution when the wind became
+so violent, and the sea so rough, that navigation, in the midst of
+floating ice, which crashed with a fearful noise, became most perilous.
+
+The danger increased, when a field of ice extending beyond the range
+of vision was seen to the north. There seemed every prospect of the
+ships being imprisoned for many weeks, "hemmed in," to use the
+expression of whalers, if indeed they did not run the risk of being
+crushed at once.
+
+Cook neither tried to run to the west or east, he steered straight for
+the south. He was now in the latitude attributed to Cape Circumcision,
+and seventy leagues south of the position assigned to it. Hence he
+concluded that if land existed as stated by Bouvet (which is now known
+to be a fact) it could only be an inconsiderable island, and not a
+large continent.
+
+The captain had no further reason for remaining in these latitudes. In
+67 degrees 15 minutes southern latitude a new ice barrier, running
+from east to west closed the passage for him, and he could find no
+opening in it. Prudence enjoined his remaining no longer in this
+region, for two-thirds of the summer were already passed. He therefore
+determined to seek, with no further delay, the land recently
+discovered by the French.
+
+On the 1st of February, 1773, the vessels were in 48 degrees 30
+minutes south latitude, and 38 degrees 7 minutes west longitude, very
+nearly the parallel attributed to St. Maurice Island.
+
+After a fruitless cruise, productive of no results, they were forced
+to conclude, that if there really were land in these latitudes it
+could only be a small island, otherwise it could not have escaped
+their search.
+
+[Illustration: New Zealand war canoe. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+On the 8th of February, the captain found to his dismay that the
+_Adventure_ was no longer sailing with him. He waited in vain for two
+days, firing at close intervals and keeping great fires upon the deck
+all night. The _Resolution_ had to continue her voyage alone.
+
+On the morning of the 17th of February, between twelve and three
+o'clock, the crew witnessed a magnificent spectacle, then first seen
+by European eyes. It was an aurora borealis. "The officer of the
+watch," says the narrative, "noticed that from time to time rays left
+it in spiral and circular forms, and that then its brilliancy
+increased, which gave it an extremely beautiful appearance. It
+appeared to have no particular bearing, but remained motionless in the
+heavens, which it filled entirely from time to time, by throwing its
+light to all parts."
+
+After another attempt to pass the arctic circle, an attempt, which the
+fogs, the rain, the snow, and the ice-blocks forced him to relinquish,
+Cook resumed his course to the north, convinced that he left no large
+land behind him, and regained New Zealand, which he had agreed upon
+with the _Adventure_ as a rendezvous in the event of separation.
+
+On the 25th of March he cast anchor in Dusky Bay, after one hundred
+and seventy consecutive days of sea, in which he had not made less
+than three thousand six hundred and sixty leagues, without one sight
+of land.
+
+As soon as he could find suitable anchorage, the captain hastened to
+avail himself of the resources for feeding his crew, which the country
+furnished in fowls, fish, and vegetables, whilst he himself, generally
+with the plumb-line in his hand, traversed the environs of the bay. He
+met only a few natives, with whom he had little intercourse. But one
+family becoming somewhat familiarized, established itself a hundred
+yards from the landing-place. Cook gave a concert for them, in which
+the fife and cornet were lavished on them in vain, the New Zealanders
+awarded the palm to the drum!
+
+On the 18th of April, a chief came on board with his daughter. But
+before entering the ship he rapped her sides with a green wand he held
+in his hand, and addressed an harangue or invocation in modulated
+accents, to the strangers, a very general custom with the islanders of
+the southern sea. Scarcely was his foot on deck, when he offered the
+captain a bit of cloth, and a green talc hatchet, an unprecedented act
+of generosity for a New Zealander.
+
+The chief visited every part of the ship. In order to testify his
+gratitude to the captain he plunged his fingers into a bag at his
+waist, and offered to anoint his hair with the tainted oil it
+contained. Cook had much difficulty in escaping from this proof of
+affection, which had not been very pleasing to Byron in the Strait of
+Magellan, but the painter Hodges was forced to submit to the operation,
+to the amusement of the entire crew. The chief then departed, to
+return no more, taking with him nine hatchets, and thirty pairs of
+carpenter's scissors, which the officers had given him. Richer than
+all the New Zealanders put together, he no doubt hastened to stow away
+his treasures, in the fear that some one would deprive him of them.
+
+Before leaving Cook landed five geese, the last of those he had
+brought from the Cape, thinking that they would multiply in this
+little inhabited spot, and he had a plot of land cleared in which he
+planted kitchen garden seeds. Thus he worked at the same time for the
+natives and for the future navigators who should find precious
+resources here.
+
+When Cook had completed the hydrographical survey of Dusky Bay, he
+started for Queen Charlotte's Sound, the rendezvous assigned to
+Captain Furneaux.
+
+On the 17th of May the crew witnessed a magnificent spectacle. Six
+water-spouts, one of them sixty feet wide at its base, were visible a
+hundred feet from the ship in succession, drawing the clouds and sea
+into communication by their powerful suction. This phenomenon lasted
+three quarters of an hour, and the first feeling of fear which it
+awakened in the breasts of the crew was soon merged in one of
+admiration, the greater as at this time such marvels were little known.
+
+Next day, just as the _Resolution_ entered Queen Charlotte's Sound,
+the _Adventure_ was seen, and proved to have been waiting for six
+weeks. Furneaux, after reaching Van Diemen's Land on the 1st of March,
+had coasted it for seventeen days, but he was forced to desist before
+ascertaining whether it was, as he supposed, a part of New Holland.
+The refutation of this error was reserved for the surgeon, Bass. On
+the 9th of April after reaching Queen's Charlotte's Sound, the captain
+of the _Adventure_ had profited by his leisure to lay out a garden and
+to open relations with the natives, who had furnished him with
+irresistible proofs of their cannibalism.
+
+Before he continued his voyage of discovery, Cook followed the same
+line of conduct as at Dusky Bay. He landed a ram and a sheep, a goat
+and a she-goat, a pig and a sow. He also planted potatoes, which only
+existed upon the more southerly of the two islands which form New
+Zealand.
+
+The natives resembled those of Dusky Bay, but they appeared more
+thoughtless, ran from room to room during supper, and devoured
+everything that was offered to them. It was impossible to induce them
+to taste wine or brandy, but they were very partial to sugar and water.
+Cook says,--
+
+"They laid hands on all they saw, but they gave up anything so soon as
+we made them understand by signs that we could not, or would not give
+it to them. They particularly admired glass bottles, which they called
+Tawhaw, but when the durability and use of iron was explained to them
+they preferred it to glass-ware, ribbons, or white paper. Amongst them
+were several women, whose lips were covered with little holes, painted
+a blueish black, whilst vivid red formed of chalk and oil, covered
+their cheeks. Like the natives of Dusky Bay, they had small legs and
+bodies, but thick knees, which proves that they take little exercise
+and sit cross-legged. The almost perpetual squatting in their pirogues
+no doubt also adds to these peculiarities.
+
+"The colour of their skin is clear brown, their hair is very black,
+their faces are round, their nose and lips are somewhat thick but not
+flat, their eyes are black and bright enough, and tolerably expressive.
+
+"Placed in a row, the natives took off their outer garments, and one
+of them sang a rough sort of song, the others accompanying him with
+gestures. They stretched out their hands, and alternately struck their
+feet against the ground with frantic contortions. The last words they
+repeated in chorus, and we easily distinguished a sort of metre, but I
+am not sure that there was any rhyme; the music was wild and
+monotonous."
+
+Some of the New Zealanders begged for news of Tupia, and when they
+heard of his death, they expressed their grief by a kind of
+lamentation plainly artificial.
+
+Cook did not recognize a single native whom he had met on his first
+voyage. He naturally concluded that the natives who in 1770 inhabited
+the Sound had been chased out, or had gone elsewhere of their free
+will. The number of inhabitants, too, was reduced by a third, the
+"pah" was deserted, as well as a number of cabins along the coast.
+
+[Illustration: New Zealand utensils and weapons.]
+
+The two ships being ready to return to sea, Cook gave instructions to
+Captain Furneaux. He wished to advance southward between 41 degrees to
+46 degrees S. lat. up to 140 degrees west longitude, and if he found
+no land, to steer towards Tahiti, which was appointed as the place of
+rendezvous. He then proposed to return to New Zealand and survey all
+the unknown parts of the sea between that island and Cape Horn.
+
+Towards the end of July, after a few days' hot weather, scurvy again
+broke out on board the _Adventure_. The _Resolution_ escaped the
+scourge, owing to the precautions from which Cook never departed for a
+single day, and the example which he himself set of constantly eating
+celery and scurvy grass.
+
+On the 1st of July, the two vessels were in S. lat. 25 degrees 1
+minute, and 134 degrees 6 minutes W. long., the situation which
+Carteret attributed to Pitcairn Island. Cook endeavoured to find it,
+but, to his great regret, the illness on board the _Adventure_
+shortened his cruise.
+
+He was anxious to verify or rectify the longitude of this island, and
+by so doing, that of all the surrounding lands discovered by Carteret,
+which had not been confirmed by astronomical observations. But having
+no longer any hope of finding an Antarctic continent, he set sail for
+the north-west, and soon reconnoitred several of the islands seen by
+Bougainville.
+
+"The outlying islands with which the Pacific Ocean abounds between the
+tropics," he says, "are on a level with the waves in the low parts,
+and raised only a rood or two above them in the others. Their shape is
+often circular. In the centre they contain a basin of sea water, and
+the depth of water all round is not to be sounded. They produce
+little; cocoa-nuts appear to be the best of their productions; yet in
+spite of this sterility, and of their small extent, most of them are
+inhabited. It is not easy to conceive how these little settlements
+were peopled, and it is not less difficult to determine from whence
+the highest islands of the Southern Sea drew their inhabitants."
+
+On the 15th of April, Cook reconnoitred Osnaburgh or Mairea Islands,
+discovered by Wallis, and set off for Otaiti-Piha, where he intended
+to embark as many provisions as possible before reaching Matavai.
+
+"At daybreak," says Forster, "we rejoiced in one of those beautiful
+mornings which poets of every country have tried to paint. A light
+breeze brought a delicious perfume from the land, and ruffled the
+surface of the water. The forest-capped mountains elevated their
+majestic heads, over which the rising sun shed his beams. Close to us
+we saw a ridge of hills, of gentler ascent, but wooded like the first,
+and pleasantly intermixed with green and brown tints; below, a plain
+adorned with breadfruit-trees, and a quantity of palms in the
+background, overshadowing the delightful groves. All seemed still
+asleep. Dawn was but just breaking, and the country was wrapped in
+peaceful darkness. Yet we could perceive the houses amid the trees,
+and the pirogues on the shore. Half a mile from the beach, the waves
+broke over a reach of rocks level with the sea, and nothing could
+equal the tranquillity of the interior flow of the harbour. The
+day-star shed its lustre on the plain; the natives rose, and by
+degrees added life to this charming scene. At the sight of our vessels,
+several launched their pirogues in haste, and paddled towards us, as
+we were happily watching them. We little thought that we were going to
+run into great danger, and that destruction would soon threaten the
+vessels and their crews on this fortunate coast."
+
+Skilful the writer, happy the painter, who knew how to find such fresh
+and varied colours! This enchanting picture is conveyed in a few words.
+One regrets not having accompanied this bold sailor, this scientist
+who so well understood Dame Nature! Unfortunately we could not visit
+these innocent and peaceable inhabitants in that age of gold to which
+our own century offers a painful comparison.
+
+The vessels were half a league from a reef, when the wind fell. In
+spite of every effort, the ships were driven upon the rocks, in the
+very sight of the much-coveted land, when a clever manoeuvre of the
+captain's, ably seconded by the tide and the land breeze, came to
+their rescue. They had, however, received some injuries, and the
+_Adventure_ lost three anchors.
+
+The ships were surrounded by a crowd of pirogues, and every variety of
+fruit was exchanged for glass beads. Still the natives offered neither
+fowls nor pigs. Those that were seen near the cabins belonged to the
+king, and they had no right to sell them. Several of the Tahitans
+begged for news of Banks and the companions of Cook's earlier voyage.
+Some also inquired for news of Tupia, but they spoke no more of him
+when they had learned the circumstances of his death.
+
+Next day, the two vessels anchored in the roadstead of Otaiti-Piha,
+two cable-lengths from the shore, and were besieged by visitors and
+traffickers.
+
+Some profited by the crush to throw the merchandize they had already
+sold into their canoes, that they might sell it over again. To put a
+stop to this trick, Cook drove the perpetrators away, after having
+flogged them, a punishment which they accepted without complaining.
+
+In the afternoon the two captains landed, to examine the watering
+place, which they found very convenient. During their absence a crowd
+of natives came on board, and amply confirmed the unenviable
+reputation they had acquired in the earlier records of Bougainville
+and Cook.
+
+"One of the officers, standing on the quarter-deck," says the
+narrative, "desiring to give a child six years old, in one of the
+pirogues, some glass beads, let them fall into the sea. The child at
+once jumped into the water and dived until he recovered them. To
+reward his skill, he threw other trifles to him, a generosity which
+tempted a crowd of men and women, who amused us by their surprising
+agility in the waves. Their easy attitudes in the water, and the
+suppleness of their limbs, made them like amphibious animals."
+
+But the Tahitans who came on board were detected in several acts of
+theft. One of them, who remained for the greater part of the day in
+Cook's bedroom, hastened to jump into the sea, and the captain,
+enraged by his conduct, had shots fired over his head. A boat, sent to
+take the pirogues of the robbers, was assailed with stones until it
+reached the shore, and it was only after a discharge of shot that the
+assailants determined to retreat. These hostilities led to no result,
+the natives came on board as if nothing had occurred.
+
+Cook learned from them that the greater part of his old friends from
+the neighbourhood of Matavai had fallen in a battle between the
+inhabitants of the two peninsulas.
+
+The officers made many excursions on land. Forster, animated by an
+ardour for botanical research, missed none of them. In one of these he
+witnessed the method employed by the Tahitans in preparing their
+stuffs.
+
+"We had gone but a few paces," he says, "when a noise from the forest
+struck upon our ears. Following the sounds, we reached a little tent,
+where five or six women sitting upon either side of a large square
+piece of wood, were thrashing the fibrous bark of mulberry-trees to
+fabricate their stuffs. For this purpose they used a bit of square
+wood, with long parallel grooves more or less hollowed, according to
+the different sides. They paused a moment to enable us to examine the
+bark, the hammer, and the beam which served them for a table.
+
+"They also showed us a kind of gum-water in a large cocoa-nut which
+they used from time to time to join the various bits of bark together.
+
+"This glue, which appears to us to be obtained from the 'Hibiscus
+Esculentus,' is absolutely needful in the fabrication of the stuff,
+which being occasionally two or three yards wide and fifty long, are
+composed of small pieces of the bark. The women employed at this work
+wore very old and ragged clothes and their hands were hard and
+knotted."
+
+The same day Forster saw a man with very long nails, of which he was
+immensely proud, as proving that he was not obliged to work for his
+bread. In Annam, in China and other countries, this singular and
+ridiculous fashion is common. A single finger is kept with a shorter
+nail, being the one used to scratch with, a very frequent occupation
+in the extreme East.
+
+In another of his walks Forster saw a native, who passed his days in
+being fed by his wives, quietly lying upon a carpet of thick shrubs.
+This melancholy person, who fattened without rendering any service to
+society, recalled Sir John Mandeville's anger at seeing "such a
+glutton who passed his days without distinguishing himself by any
+feats of arms, and who lived in pleasure, as a pig which one fattens
+in a sty."
+
+[Illustration: "Who passed his days in being fed by his wives."]
+
+On the 22nd of August, Cook having learned that King Waheatua was in
+the neighbourhood, and being desirous of seeing him, landed with
+Captain Furneaux, the Forsters, and several natives. He met him
+advancing towards him with a numerous suite, and recognized him at
+once as he had seen him several times in 1769.
+
+This king was then a child, and was called Te Aree, but he had changed
+his name at the death of his father Waheatua. He made the captain sit
+down on his stool, and inquired solicitously for the various
+Englishmen he had known on the former voyage. Cook, after the usual
+compliments, presented him with a shirt, a hatchet, some nails, and
+other trifles. But of all his presents, that which appeared most
+precious to him, and which excited most cries of admiration from his
+followers, was a tuft of red feathers mounted upon iron wire.
+
+Waheatua, king of Little Tahiti, was about seventeen or eighteen years
+of age. Tall and well made, his appearance would have been majestic,
+but for a look of fear and distrust.
+
+He was surrounded by several chiefs and noble personages, remarkable
+for their height, and one of whom, tattooed in a peculiar manner, was
+enormously stout. The king, who showed him great deference, consulted
+him every moment. Cook then learned that a Spanish vessel had put into
+Tahiti a few months previously, and he afterwards ascertained that it
+was that of Domingo Buenechea, which came from Callao.
+
+Whilst Etee, the king's confidant, conversed with some officers upon
+religious subjects, and asked the English if they had a god, Waheatua
+amused himself with the captain's watch. Astonished at the noise it
+made, and venting his surprise in the words, "It speaks!" he inquired
+of what use it was.
+
+It was explained to him that it told the time, and in that respect
+resembled the sun. Waheatua gave it the name of the "little sun," to
+show that he understood the explanation.
+
+The vessels sailed on the morning of the 24th, and were followed for a
+long time by numbers of pirogues bearing cocoa-nuts and fruit. Rather
+than lose this opportunity of obtaining European commodities, the
+natives parted with their wares very cheaply; a dozen cocoa-nuts could
+be obtained for one glass bead.
+
+The abundant fresh provisions soon restored the health of all on board
+the vessels, and most of the sailors, who on reaching Osnaburgh could
+scarcely walk, could get about well when they left.
+
+The _Resolution_ and _Adventure_ reached Matavai Bay on the 26th. A
+crowd of Tahitians soon invaded the deck. Most of them were known to
+the captain, and Lieutenant Pickersgill, who had accompanied Wallis in
+1767, and Cook two years later, received a warm welcome from them.
+
+Cook had tents erected for the sick, the sail-menders, and the coopers,
+and then left with Captain Furneaux and the two Forsters for Oparree.
+The boat which took them soon passed a "morai" of stones, and a
+cemetery known as the "morai of Tootahah." When Cook called it by this
+name, one of the natives who accompanied him interrupted him by saying
+that since Tootahah's death it was called O Too.
+
+"A fine lesson for princes, who thus in their lives are reminded that
+they are mortal, and that after their death the earth which contains
+their corpse will not be their own. The chief and his wife removed the
+upper garments from their shoulders as they passed, a mark of respect
+which natives of all ranks exhibit before a 'morai,' as they appear to
+attach a particular idea of sanctity to these places."
+
+Cook soon gained admittance to the presence of King O-Too. After many
+compliments he offered him all that he thought he had which would
+please him, because he appreciated the advantage this man's friendship
+would be to him, for his every word showed timidity of disposition.
+
+Tall and well made, the king was about thirty years old. He inquired
+after Tupia and Cook's companions, although he had seen none of them.
+Many presents were distributed to those of his cortege who appeared
+the most influential.
+
+[Illustration: O-Too, King of Otaheite. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+"The women sent their servants to find large pieces of their finest
+stuffs, tinted scarlet, rose, and straw colour, and perfumed with the
+most odoriferous oil. They placed them over our outer clothing, and so
+loaded us that we could scarcely move."
+
+O-Too paid the captain a visit on the morrow. He only came on board
+after Cook had been enveloped in a considerable quantity of the most
+costly native stuff, and he dared not go below until his brother had
+first done so. The king and his suite were seated for breakfast, at
+which the natives went into ecstasies over the usefulness of chairs.
+O-Too would not taste anything, but his companions were far from
+following his example. He greatly admired a beautiful spaniel
+belonging to Forster and expressed a wish to possess it. It was at
+once given to him, and he had it carried behind him by one of his
+lords-in-waiting. After breakfast the captain himself conducted O-Too
+to his sloop, and Captain Furneaux gave him a pair of goats. Upon an
+excursion to the interior, Mr. Pickersgill met the aged Oberea, who
+appeared to have lost all her honours, and she was so poor that it was
+impossible for her to give a present to her friends.
+
+When Cook left on the 1st of September, a young Tahitian, named Poreo,
+begged to accompany him. The captain consented, hoping that he might
+prove useful. The moment he lost sight of land poor Poreo could not
+restrain his tears. The officers comforted him by promising to be like
+fathers to him.
+
+Cook directed his course to Huaheine Island, which was only
+twenty-five leagues distant, and anchored there at three in the
+morning. The natives brought quantities of large fowls, which were the
+more acceptable as it had been impossible to obtain any at Tahiti.
+Pigs, dogs, and fruit were in the market, and were exchanged for
+hatchets, nails, and glass-ware.
+
+This island, like Tahiti, showed traces of earlier volcanic eruptions,
+and the summit of one of its hills resembled a crater.
+
+The appearance of the country is similar to that of Tahiti, but is on
+a smaller scale, for Huaheine is only seven or eight leagues in
+circumference.
+
+Cook went to see his old friend Orea. The king, dispensing with all
+ceremony, threw himself on the captain's neck, and shed tears of joy;
+then he presented him to his friends, to whom the captain gave
+presents.
+
+The king offered Cook all his most precious possessions, for he looked
+upon this man as a father. Orea promised to supply the English with
+all they needed and most loyally kept his word. However, on the
+morning of the 6th the sailors who presided over the traffic were
+insulted by a native covered with red, in war dress, and holding a
+club, who threatened every one. Cook, landing at this moment, threw
+himself on the native, struggled with him and finally possessed
+himself of his weapon, which he broke.
+
+The same day another incident occurred. Sparrman had imprudently
+penetrated to the interior of the island to make botanical researches.
+Some natives, taking advantage of the moment when he was examining a
+plant, snatched a dagger, which was the only weapon he carried, from
+his belt, gave him a blow on the head, and rushing upon him, tore some
+of his clothes. Sparrman, however, managed to rise and run towards the
+shore, but, hampered by the bushes and briars, he was captured by the
+natives, who cut his hands to possess themselves of his shirt, the
+sleeves of which were buttoned, until he tore the wristbands with his
+teeth. Others of the natives, seeing him naked and half dead, gave him
+their clothes, and conducted him to the market-place, where there was
+a crowd assembled. When Sparrman appeared in this plight, they all
+took flight, without waiting to be told. Cook at first thought they
+intended to commit a theft. Undeceived by the appearance of the
+naturalist, he recalled the other natives, assured them that he would
+not revenge it upon the innocent, and carried his complaint straight
+to Orea. The latter, miserable and furious at what had occurred,
+loaded his people with vehement reproaches, and promised to do all in
+his power to find out the robbers and the stolen things.
+
+In spite of the prayers of the natives, the king embarked in the
+captain's vessel, and entered upon a search for the culprits with him.
+The latter had removed their clothes, and for a while it was
+impossible to recognize them. Orea therefore accompanied Cook on board,
+dined with him, and on his return to land was received by his people,
+who had not expected his return, with lively expressions of joy.
+
+"One of the most agreeable reflections suggested by this voyage," says
+Forster, "is that instead of finding the inhabitants of this island
+plunged in voluptuousness, as had been falsely affirmed by earlier
+navigators, we remarked the most humane and delicate sentiments among
+them. There are vicious characters in every society, but we could
+count fifty more sinners in England or any other civilized country
+than in these islands."
+
+As the vessels were putting off, Orea came to announce that the
+robbers were taken, and to invite Cook to land and assist in their
+punishment. It was impossible. The king accompanied Cook half a league
+on his way, and left him with friendly farewells.
+
+This stay in port had been very productive. The two vessels brought
+away more than three hundred pigs, and quantities of fowls and fruits.
+Probably they would not have procured much more, even had their stay
+been prolonged.
+
+Captain Furneaux had agreed to take a young man named Omai on board.
+His conduct and intelligence gave a favourable idea of the inhabitants
+of the Society Islands. Upon his arrival in England this Tahitian was
+presented to the king by Earl Sandwich, first lord of the Admiralty.
+At the same time he found protectors and friends in Banks and Solander.
+They arranged a friendly reception for him among the first families of
+Great Britain. He lived two years in this country, and upon Cook's
+third voyage he accompanied him, and returned to his native land.
+
+The captain afterwards visited Ulietea, where the natives gave him the
+most appreciative welcome. They inquired with interest about Tupia and
+the English they had seen in the _Endeavour_. King Oreo hastened to
+renew his acquaintance with the captain, and gave him all the
+provisions his island produced. During their stay, Poreo, who had
+embarked in the _Resolution_, landed with a young Tahitan girl, who
+had enchanted him, and would not return on board. He was replaced by a
+young man of seventeen or eighteen years of age, a native of Bolabola,
+named OEdidi, who announced his wish to go to England. The grief
+evinced by this native on leaving his native land spoke well for his
+good heart.
+
+The vessels, laden with more than four hundred pigs, and also with
+fowls, and fruit, left the Society Islands on the 17th of September,
+and steered for the west. Six days later, one of the Harvey Islands
+was sighted, and on the 1st of October anchor was cast off Eoa, called
+Middelbourg Island by Tasman and Cook.
+
+The welcome by the natives was cordial. A chief named Tai-One came on
+board, touched the captain's nose with a pinch of pepper, and sat down
+without speaking. The alliance was concluded and ratified by the gift
+of a few trifles.
+
+Tai-One guided the English into the interior. The new comers were
+surrounded by a dense crowd of natives, offering stuffs and mats in
+exchange for nails as long as the walk lasted. The natives often even
+carried their liberality so far as to decline any return for these
+presents. Tai-One conducted his new friends to his dwelling, agreeably
+situated in a beautiful valley, in the shade of some "_sadhecks_." He
+served them with a liquor extracted from the juice of the "_eava_,"
+the use of which is common to the Polynesian islanders. It was
+prepared in the following manner:--Pieces of a root, a species of
+pepper, were first chewed, and then placed in a large wooden vase,
+over which water was poured. As soon as this liquor was drinkable, the
+natives poured it out into cups made of green leaves, shaped into form,
+and holding about half a pint. Cook was the only one who tasted it.
+The method of preparing the liquor had quenched the thirst of his
+companions, but the natives were not fastidious, and the vase was soon
+emptied.
+
+The English afterwards visited several plantations or gardens,
+separated by intertwined hedges, which were connected by doors formed
+of planks and hung upon hinges. The perfection of culture, and the
+fully developed instinct of property, showed a degree of civilization
+superior to that of Tahiti.
+
+In spite of the reception he met with, Cook, who could procure neither
+pigs nor fowls, left this island to reach that of Amsterdam, called
+Tonga Tabou by the natives. Here he hoped to find the provisions he
+needed. The vessels soon anchored in the roadstead of Van Dieman, in
+eighteen fathoms of water, a cable's length from the breakers which
+border the shore. The natives were friendly, and brought stuffs, mats,
+implements, arms, ornaments, and soon afterwards pigs and fowls.
+OEdidi bought some red feathers of them with much delight, declaring
+they would have a high value at Tahiti. Cook landed with a native
+named Attago, who had attached himself to him at once. During his
+excursion, he remarked a temple similar to a "morai," and which was
+called by the generic name of Faitoka. Raised upon an artificial butt,
+sixteen or eighteen feet from the ground, the temple was in an oblong
+form, and was reached by two stone staircases. Built like the homes of
+the natives, with posts and joists, it was covered with palm leaves.
+Two wooden images coarsely carved, two feet in length, occupied the
+corners.
+
+"As I did not wish to offend either them or their gods," says the
+captain, "I dared not touch them, but I inquired of Attago if these
+were 'Eatuas,' or gods. I do not know if he understood me, but he
+instantly handled them, and turned them over as roughly as if he had
+merely touched a bit of wood, which convinced me that they did not
+represent a divine being."
+
+A few thefts were perpetrated, but they did not interrupt cordiality,
+and a quantity of provisions were procured. Before leaving, the
+captain had an interview with a person who was treated with
+extraordinary respect, to whom all the natives accorded the rank of
+king. Cook says,--
+
+"I found him seated, with a gravity of deportment so stupid and so
+dull, that in spite of all they had told me, I took him for an idiot,
+whom the people adored from superstitious motives. I saluted him, and
+talked to him, but he made no reply, and paid no attention to me. I
+was about to leave him, when a native made me understand that it was
+without doubt the king. I offered him a shirt, a hatchet, a piece of
+red stuff, a looking-glass, some nails, medals, and glass-ware. He
+received them, or rather allowed them to be placed upon his person or
+beside him, losing nothing of his gravity, and speaking no word, not
+even moving his head to the right or left."
+
+However, next day, this chief sent baskets of bananas and a roast pig,
+saying that it was a present from the "ariki" of the island to the
+"ariki" of the ship.
+
+Cook called this archipelago the Friendly Islands. They had formerly
+received various names from Schouten and Tasman, as, Cocoa-nut Islands,
+Traitor Islands, Hope Islands, and Horn Islands.
+
+Cook not having been able to obtain fresh water, was obliged to leave
+Tonga sooner than he wished. He found time, however, to make a few
+observations as to the productions of the country, and the manners of
+the natives. We will mention the most striking.
+
+Nature had showered its treasures with a liberal hand upon Tonga and
+Eoa Islands. Cocoa-nuts, palm-trees, breadfruit-trees, yams, and
+sugar-canes are most plentiful there. As for edible animals, pigs and
+fowls alone were met with, but dogs if not existing there, are known
+by name. The most delicate fish abounds on the coast. Of much the same
+form as Europeans, and equally white, the inhabitants of these islands
+are well-proportioned and of pleasant features. Their hair is
+originally black, but they are in the habit of tinting it with powder,
+so that white, red, and blue hair abounds, which produces a singular
+effect. Tattooing is a universal practice. Their clothes are very
+simple, consisting of one piece of stuff, rolled round the waist, and
+falling to the knees. The women, who at Tonga, as everywhere else, are
+more coquettish than men, make aprons of cocoa-nut fibres, which they
+ornament with shells, and bits of coloured stuffs and feathers.
+
+The natives have some singular customs, which the English had not
+noticed before. Thus they put everything that is given them on their
+heads, and conclude a bargain with this practice. When a friend or
+relation dies, they slash their limbs, and even some of their fingers.
+Their dwellings are not collected in villages, but are separate and
+dispersed among the plantations. Built in the same style as those of
+the Society Isles, they differ from them only in being raised higher
+above the ground.
+
+The _Adventure_ and _Resolution_ sailed on the 7th of October, and the
+following day reconnoitred Pylstart Island, discovered by Tasman. On
+the 21st, anchor was cast in Hawke's Bay, New Zealand. Cook landed a
+certain number of animals, which he wished to acclimatize, and set
+sail again to enter Queen Charlotte's Sound, but being caught in a
+great gale, he was separated from the _Adventure_, and did not meet
+her again until he reached England.
+
+On the 5th of November the captain repaired the damages of his vessel,
+and before undertaking a new voyage in the southern seas, he wished to
+ascertain the extent and quality of his provisions. He reckoned that
+four thousand five hundred pounds of biscuits had been entirely
+spoiled, and that more than three thousand pounds were in scarcely
+better condition. During his stay here he obtained a new and still
+more convincing proof of the cannibalism of the natives of New Zealand.
+An officer had bought the head of a young man, who had been killed and
+eaten, and some natives seeing it, wished very much for a piece, Cook
+gave it up to them, and the avidity with which they threw themselves
+upon this revolting food, proved the pleasure that these cannibals
+took in eating food which they have difficulty in procuring.
+
+The _Resolution_ left New Zealand on the 26th of November, and entered
+the glacial regions which she had already traversed; but the
+circumstances attending her second voyage were distressing. The crew,
+though in good health, were overcome by fatigue, and less capable of
+resisting illness, the more so that they had no fresh food on board.
+
+The _Resolution_ had lost her consort, and the world was convinced
+that no Antarctic continent existed. It was, so to say, a "platonic"
+voyage. It was necessary to prove beyond the possibility of doubt that
+no new land of any importance was to be discovered in these latitudes.
+
+The first ice was encountered on the 12th of December, and farther to
+the south than in the preceding year. From this date, the usual
+incidents of navigation in these latitudes were repeated day by day.
+OEdidi was quite astonished by the "white rain," as he called the snow
+which fell on his hand, but the sight of the first ice was a still
+greater marvel to him; he called it "white earth."
+
+"His mind had been struck by a phenomenon in the torrid zone," says
+the narrative. "As long as the ships remained in these latitudes, we
+had had scarcely any night, and he had seen that we could write at
+midnight by the light of the sun. OEdidi could scarcely believe his
+eyes, and he assured us that his fellow countrymen would put him down
+as a liar, if he talked to them of petrified rain, and of perpetual
+day."
+
+The young Tahitan had time to become accustomed to this phenomenon,
+for the ship advanced as far as 76 degrees south, amidst floating ice.
+Then, convinced that if a continent existed the ice made access to it
+impossible, Cook determined to proceed to the North.
+
+General dissatisfaction prevailed; no one on board was free from
+severe colds, or from an attack of scurvy. The captain himself was
+seriously affected by bilious sickness, which kept him in bed. For
+eight days his life was in danger, and his recovery was likely to be
+equally painful and slow. The same route was followed until the 11th
+of March, when with the rising of the sun the joyful cry of "Land!
+land!" arose.
+
+It was the Easter Island, of Roggewein's Davis' Land. Upon nearing it,
+the navigators were struck with astonishment, as the Dutch had been,
+by the enormous statues erected on the shore. Cook says that the
+latitude of Easter Island answers very closely to that marked in
+Roggewein's MS. journal, and its longitude is only one degree wrong.
+
+The shore, composed of black broken rock of ferruginous appearance,
+shows traces of violent subterranean eruption. A few scattered
+plantations were perceived in the centre of the island.
+
+Singular coincidence! The first word spoken by the natives as the
+strangers approached the shore, was to ask in the Tahitan tongue for a
+rope. This again suggested that the origin of both races was the same.
+Like the Tahitans they were tattooed, and clothed in stuffs similar to
+those of the Society Islands.
+
+"The action of the sun on their heads," says the narrative, "has
+forced them to find different means for protecting themselves. The
+greater number of the men wear a circular head-covering about two
+inches thick, twisted with grass from one side to the other, and
+covered with a great quantity of those long, black feathers which
+adorn the frigate bird. Others have enormous hats of brown gulls'
+feathers, almost as large as the wigs of European lawyers, and many
+have a simple wooden hoop, surrounded with white gulls' feathers,
+which wave in the air. The women wear large and wide hats of neat
+plaits, which come to a point in front, with a ridge along the top,
+and two great lobes on either side.
+
+"The country was a picture of desolation. It was surveyed by two
+detachments, and was found to be covered with black and porous stones.
+The entire vegetation which could thrive on this mass of lava
+consisted of two or three kinds of rugose grass, which grew on the
+rocks, scanty bushes, especially the paper-mulberry, the 'hibiscus,'
+and the mimosa, and some plantains. Close to the landing-place is a
+perpendicular wall, constructed of square stones, compactly and
+durably joined in accordance with art rules, and fitting in a style of
+durability. Further on, in the centre of a well-paved area, a monolith
+is erected, representing a half-naked human figure, some twenty[1]
+feet high, and more than five wide, very roughly hewn. The head is
+badly designed, the eyes, nose, and mouth scarcely indicated, but the
+ears are very long, as is the fashion in this country, and are better
+finished than the rest."
+
+[Footnote 1: In the earlier editions of the French translation of
+Cook's Voyages (Paris, 1878, seven 4to vols.), the height of this
+statue is given as two feet, evidently by a typographical error. We
+now correct this mistake, which has been repeated in all subsequent
+editions.]
+
+These monuments, which are numerous, do not appear to have been
+erected or hewn by the race the English found, or this race had
+degenerated; for these natives paid no respect to the statues,
+although they treated them with a certain veneration, and objected to
+any one's walking on the pavement near them.
+
+It was not only on the sea-shore that these enormous sentinels were
+seen. Between the mountains, in the fissures of rocks, others existed,
+some erect or fallen to earth through some convulsion, others still
+imperfectly separated from the block from which they were being cut.
+What sudden catastrophe stopped the works? What do these monoliths
+represent? To what distant period do these testimonies of the industry
+of a race long disappeared, or the recollection of whom has perished,
+seem to point? This problem must remain for ever insoluble.
+
+[Illustration: Monuments in Easter Island. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+Traffic proceeded easily. It was only necessary to repress the
+marvellous dexterity of the natives in emptying pockets. The few
+possessions which had been obtained had been very useful, though the
+want of drinkable water prevented Cook remaining long in Easter Island.
+He directed his course to the archipelago of the Marquesas of Mendana,
+which had not been visited since 1595. But his vessel had no sooner
+been put to sea than he was again attacked by the bilious fever, from
+which he had suffered so severely. The sufferers from scurvy relapsed,
+and all who had undertaken long walks across Easter Island had their
+faces burnt by the sun.
+
+[Illustration: Natives of Easter Island. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+On the 7th of April, 1774, Cook sighted the Marquesas group, after
+seeking them in vain for five consecutive days in the different
+positions assigned to them by geographers. Anchor was cast at Tao Wati,
+the Santa Cristina of Mendana.
+
+The _Resolution_ was soon surrounded by pirogues, the foremost of
+which was full of stones, every man on board having a sling round his
+hand. However, friendly relations were formed, followed by barter.
+
+"These natives," says Forster, "are well made, with handsome faces,
+yellowish or tanned complexions, and marks all over their bodies,
+which gives them an almost black appearance. The valleys of our
+harbour were filled with trees, and tallied in every particular with
+the description given by the Spaniards. We saw fire across the forests
+several times, very far from the shore, and concluded that the country
+was well populated."
+
+[Illustration: Natives of the Marquesas.]
+
+The difficulty of procuring food decided Cook upon a hasty departure.
+But he had time to collect some interesting facts about the people,
+whom he considered the handsomest in Oceania. These natives appear to
+surpass all others in the regularity of their features. The
+resemblance in their speech, however, to that of the Tahitans, appears
+to point to a common origin.
+
+The Marquesas are five in number, Magdalena, San Pedro, Dominica,
+Santa Cristina, and Hood Island, the latter so called after the
+volunteer who first discovered it. Santa Cristina is divided by a
+chain of mountains of considerable elevation, to which the hills that
+rise from the sea lead. Deep, narrow, and fertile valleys, filled with
+fruit-trees, and watered by streams of excellent water, intersect this
+mountain isle. Port Madre de Dios, called by Cook Resolution Harbour,
+is about the centre of the eastern coast of Santa Cristina. It
+contains two sandy creeks, into which two streams flow.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+A fresh visit to Tahiti and the Friendly Islands--Exploration of New
+Hebrides--Discovery of New Caledonia and Pine Island--Stay in Queen
+Charlotte's Sound--South Georgia--Accident to the _Adventure_.
+
+
+After leaving these islands, on the 12th of April, and sailing for
+Tahiti, Cook fell in, five days later, with the Pomotou archipelago.
+He landed on the Tioukea Island of Byron. The inhabitants, who had
+cause to complain of earlier navigators, received the advances of the
+English coldly. The latter could only obtain about two dozen
+cocoa-nuts and five pigs, which appeared plentiful in this island. In
+another settlement a more friendly reception was met with. The natives
+embraced the new-comers, and rubbed their noses in the same fashion as
+the New Zealanders. OEdidi bought several dogs, the long and white
+hair of whose skins serves as an ornament for cuirasses in his native
+land.
+
+Forster relates:--
+
+"The natives told us that they broke up scurvy grass, mixed it with
+shell-fish, and threw it into the sea on the approach of a shoal of
+fish. This bait intoxicated the fish for a time, and when they came to
+the surface it was easy to take them. The captain afterwards saw
+several other islands of this immense archipelago, which were similar
+to those he had left, especially the Pernicious Islands, where
+Roggewein had lost his sloop, the _African_, and to which Cook gave
+the name of Palliser Islands."
+
+He then steered for Tahiti, which the sailors, certain of the
+good-will of the natives, regarded as a home. The _Resolution_ cast
+anchor in Matavai Bay on the 22nd of April, and their reception was as
+friendly as had been anticipated. A few days later, King O-Too and
+several other chiefs visited the English, and brought them a present
+of ten or a dozen large pigs and some fruit.
+
+Cook's first idea was to remain in this spot only just long enough for
+Mr. Wales, the astronomer, to take observations, but the abundance of
+provisions induced him to prolong his stay.
+
+On the morning of the 26th, the captain, who had been to Oparree with
+some of his officers, to make a formal visit to the king, observed a
+fleet of more than 300 pirogues, drawn up in order on the shore. They
+were all completely equipped. At the same time a number of warriors
+assembled on the beach.
+
+The officers' suspicions were excited by this formidable armament,
+collected in one night, but they were reassured by the welcome they
+received.
+
+This fleet consisted of no less than sixty large double pirogues,
+decorated with flags and streamers, and 170 smaller ones, intended for
+the transport of provisions, and the flotilla was manned with no fewer
+than 7760 men, warriors or paddlers.
+
+"The sight of this fleet," says Forster, "increased our ideas of the
+power and wealth of this island. The entire crew was astonished. When
+we reflect upon the implements possessed by this people, we can but
+admire the patience and toil necessary to cut down these enormous
+trees, separate and polish the branches, and then to carry the heavy
+constructions to such perfection. These works are produced by them by
+means of a stone hatchet and saw, a piece of coral, and the hide of
+whales. The chiefs, and all who occupied a prominent fighting rank,
+were dressed in military style--that is to say, in a quantity of
+stuffs, turbans, helmets, and breastplates. The height of some of the
+helmets was most embarrassing to the wearers. The entire equipment
+appeared more appropriate for scenic effect than suitable for a
+battlefield. But, in any case, it added to the grandeur of the display,
+and the warriors did not fail to show themselves with a view to the
+most striking effect.
+
+"Upon reaching Matavai, Cook learned that this formidable armament was
+destined for an attack upon Eimio, whose chief had revolted against
+the Tahitan yoke, and become independent.
+
+"During the following days the captain was visited by some of his old
+friends. All showed a desire to possess red feathers, which were of
+considerable value. One only attached more importance to a glass bead
+or a nail. The Tahitans were so impressed that they offered in
+exchange the strange mourning garments, which they had refused to sell
+during Cook's first voyage.
+
+"These garments are made of the rarest productions of the islands and
+the surrounding sea, and are worked with care and great skill, and no
+doubt are of great value to themselves. We bought no less than ten,
+which we brought to England."
+
+OEdidi, who had taken good care to procure some feathers for himself,
+could indulge in any caprice he liked. The natives looked upon him as
+a prodigy, and listened eagerly to his tales. The principal personages
+of the island, and even the king sought his society. He married a
+daughter of the chief of Matavai, and brought his wife on board. Every
+one was delighted to make him a present. Finally he decided to remain
+at Tahiti, where he had found his sister married to a powerful chief.
+
+In spite of the thefts, which more than once caused unpleasantness,
+the English procured more provisions on their stay in this port than
+ever before. The aged Oberea, who was like a queen in the island
+during the stay made by the _Dauphin_ in 1767, herself brought pigs
+and fruits, in the secret hope of obtaining red feathers, which had so
+great a success. Presents were liberally given, and the Indians were
+amused with fireworks and military manoeuvres.
+
+Just before he left, the captain witnessed a curious naval review.
+O-Too ordered a sham fight, but it lasted so short a time that it was
+impossible to observe the movements. The fleet was to commence
+hostilities five days after Cook's departure, and he would much have
+liked to have waited for it; but, fearing the natives might suspect
+him of an attempt to overcome both conquered and victors, he
+determined to leave.
+
+The _Resolution_ had scarcely left the bay, when one of the gunners,
+seduced by the delights of Tahiti, and possibly by the promises of
+King O-Too, who, no doubt, thought a European might be of use to him,
+threw himself into the sea, but he was soon retaken by a boat launched
+by Cook in his pursuit.
+
+Cook very much regretted the fact that discipline obliged him to act
+in this way. The man had no relations or friends in England, and, had
+he requested permission to remain in Tahiti, it would not have been
+refused.
+
+On the 15th, the _Resolution_ anchored in O Wharre harbour, in
+Huaheine Island. The old chief Orea was one of the first to
+congratulate the English upon their return, and to bring them presents.
+The captain presented him with red feathers, but the old chief
+appeared to prefer iron, hatchets, and nails. He seemed more indolent
+than upon the previous visit. His head was weaker, no doubt owing to
+his immoderate love for an intoxicating drink extracted from pepper by
+the natives. His authority was evidently despised, and Cook sent in
+pursuit of a band of robbers, who had not refrained from pillaging the
+old king himself, and who had taken refuge in the centre of the island.
+
+Orea showed himself grateful for the consideration the English had
+always shown him. He was the last to leave the vessel before she
+sailed, on the 24th of April, and when Cook said that they should
+never meet again, he shed tears and replied,--
+
+"Send your children here, we will treat them well."
+
+On another occasion, Orea asked the captain where he should be buried.
+"At Stepney," said Cook. Orea begged him to repeat the word until he
+could pronounce it. Then a hundred voices cried at once, "Stepney
+morai no Toote," "Stepney the grave of Cook." In giving this reply the
+great navigator had no prevision of his fate, or of the difficulty his
+fellow-countrymen would have in finding his remains.
+
+OEdidi, who at the last moment had accompanied the English to Huaheine,
+had not met with so cordial a welcome as at Tahiti. His riches had
+strangely diminished and his credit suffered in consequence. The
+narrative says,--
+
+"He soon proved the truth of the proverb, that a man is never a
+prophet in his own country. He left us with regrets, which proved his
+esteem for us, and when the moment of separation arrived, he ran from
+cabin to cabin embracing every one. It is impossible to describe the
+mental anguish of the young man when he left. He gazed at the vessel,
+burst into tears, and crouched in despair in the bottom of his pirogue.
+We saw him again, stretching out his arms to us, as we left the
+reefs."
+
+Cook reconnoitred Hove Island (so called by Wallis) on the 6th of June.
+It is named Mohipa by the natives. A few days later he found several
+uninhabited islets, surrounded by a chain of breakers, to which he
+gave the name of Palmerston, in honour of one of the Lords of the
+Admiralty.
+
+Upon the 20th a steep and rocky island was discovered, crowned with
+large woods, and bushes; the beach was narrow and sandy, and several
+natives of very dark complexion were seen upon it.
+
+They made menacing demonstrations, and were armed with lances and
+clubs. As soon as the English landed they retired. Champions, however,
+advanced, and endeavoured to provoke the strangers, assailing them
+with a storm of arrows and stones. Sparrman was wounded in the arm,
+and Cook just escaped being struck by a javelin. A general volley soon
+dispersed these inhospitable islanders, and the uncivil reception
+which was thus accorded well deserved the name bestowed upon their
+land of Savage Island.
+
+Four days later Cook reached the Tonga archipelago once more. He
+stopped this time at Nomouka, called Rotterdam by Tasman.
+
+He had scarcely cast anchor before the ship was surrounded by a crowd
+of pirogues, filled with bananas and every kind of fruit, which were
+exchanged for nails and old pieces of stuff. This friendly reception
+encouraged the naturalists to land and penetrate to the interior, in
+search of new plants and unknown productions. Upon their return they
+enlarged upon the beauty of this picturesque and romantic country, and
+upon the affability and cordiality of the natives.
+
+In spite of it, however, various thefts continued to take place, until
+a more important larceny than usual obliged the captain to resort to
+severity.
+
+A native, who opposed the seizure of two pirogues by the English, as
+hostages until the stolen arms were restored, was wounded severely by
+a gunshot. During this second visit Cook bestowed the name of Friendly
+Islands upon this group, no doubt with a sarcastic meaning. Now-a-days
+they are better known by the native name of Tonga.
+
+The indefatigable navigator continued his route in a westward
+direction, passed in succession Lepreux, Aurora, Whitsunday and
+Mallicolo Islands, to which archipelago Bougainville had given the
+name of the Grandes Cyclades.
+
+Cook gave his usual order, to enter into friendly and commercial
+relations with the inhabitants.
+
+The first day passed quietly, and the natives celebrated the visit of
+the English by games and dancing, but on the morrow an incident
+occurred which led to a general collision.
+
+A native, who was refused access to the ship, prepared to launch an
+arrow at one of the sailors. His fellow-countrymen at first prevented
+him. At the same moment Cook appeared on deck, his gun in his hand.
+His first step was to shout to the native, who again aimed at the
+sailor. Without replying, the native was about to let his arrow fly at
+him, when a shot anticipated and wounded him. This was the signal for
+a general discharge of arrows, which struck on the vessel and did but
+little damage. Cook then ordered a gun to be fired over the natives'
+heads with a view to dispersing them. A few hours later the natives
+again surrounded the ship, and returned to their barter as if nothing
+had happened.
+
+Cook took advantage of these friendly indications to land an armed
+detachment for wood and water. Four or five natives were collected on
+the beach. A chief, leaving the group, advanced to the captain,
+holding in his hand, as Cook also did, a green bough. The two branches
+were exchanged, and peace thus concluded, a few slight presents helped
+to cement it. Cook then obtained permission to take wood, but not to
+go far from the shore, and the naturalists, who were anxious to
+prosecute their investigations in the interior, were brought back to
+the beach, in spite of their protestations.
+
+Iron implements had no value for these people. This made it extremely
+difficult to obtain provisions. Only a few agreed to exchange arms for
+stuffs, and exhibited an honesty in their transactions to which the
+English were unaccustomed.
+
+The exchanges continued after the _Resolution_ had set sail, and the
+natives hurried in their pirogues to deliver the articles for which
+they had received the price. One of them, after vigorous efforts,
+succeeded in gaining the vessels, carrying his weapons to a sailor who
+had paid for them and forgotten it, it was so long ago. The native
+refused the recompense the sailor would have given, making him
+understand that he had been paid already. Cook gave the name of Port
+Sandwich to this harbour of refuge, which he left on the morning of
+the 23rd of July.
+
+He was most favourably impressed by the moral qualities of the natives
+of Mallicolo, but by no means so in regard to their physical powers.
+
+Small and badly proportioned, bronze in colour, with flat faces, they
+were hideous. Had Darwinian theories been in vogue in those days, no
+doubt Cook would have recognized in them that missing link between man
+and monkey, which is the despair of Darwin's followers.
+
+Their coarse, crinkly black hair was short, and their bushy beards did
+not add to their beauty. But the one thing which made them most
+grotesque was their habit of tying a cord tightly across the stomach,
+which made them appear like great emmets. Tortoise-shell ear-rings,
+bracelets made of hogs'-teeth, large tortoise-shell rings, and a white
+flat stone which they passed through the cartilage of the nose,
+constituted their ornaments. Their weapons were bows and arrows,
+spears and clubs. The points of their arrows, which were occasionally
+two or three in number, were coated with a substance which the English
+thought was poisonous, from observing the care with which the natives
+drew them out of a kind of quiver.
+
+The _Resolution_ had only just left Port Sandwich when all the crew
+were seized with colic, vomiting, and violent pains in the head and
+back. Two large fish had been caught and eaten by them, possibly
+whilst they were under the influence of the narcotic mentioned above.
+In every case, ten days elapsed before entire recovery. A parrot and
+dog which had also eaten of the fish died next day. Quiros' companions
+had suffered in the same way, and since Cook's voyage similar symptoms
+of poisoning have been noticed in these latitudes.
+
+After leaving Mallicolo, Cook steered for Ambrym Island, which
+appeared to contain a volcano, and shortly afterwards discovered a
+group of small islands, which he named Shepherd Islands, in honour of
+the Cambridge Professor of Astronomy.
+
+He then visited the Islands of Two Hills, Montagu and Hinchinbrook
+Islands, and the largest of all, Sandwich Island, which must not be
+mistaken for the group of the same name. All the islands, lying among
+and protected by breakers, were covered with rich vegetation and were
+largely populated.
+
+[Illustration: Typical natives of the Sandwich Islands. (Fac-simile of
+early engraving.)]
+
+Two slight accidents interrupted the calm on board. A fire broke out,
+which was soon extinguished, and one of the sailors falling overboard,
+was at once rescued.
+
+Koro Mango was discovered on the 3rd of August. Next day Cook reached
+its shore, hoping to find a watering-place, and facility for landing.
+The greater part of the sufferers from the poisonous fish had not yet
+recovered their health, and they looked forward to its speedy
+re-establishment on shore. But the reception accorded to them by the
+natives, who were armed with clubs, lances, and arrows, seemed wanting
+in sincerity.
+
+Cook was on his guard. Finding that they could not lure the English
+into landing, the natives endeavoured to force them. A chief and
+several men tried to snatch the oars from the sailors. Cook wished to
+fire his musket, but the priming would not go off. The English were
+immediately overwhelmed with stones and arrows. The captain at once
+ordered a general volley; fortunately half of the shots missed, or the
+slaughter would have been terrific.
+
+Forster says, "These natives appear to be of different race to those
+living in Mallicolo. They speak a different language. They are of
+medium height, but well-shaped, and their features are not
+disagreeable. They were bronze in complexion, and they paint their
+faces black or red; their hair is somewhat woolly and curly. The few
+women I saw appeared very ugly. I have seen no pirogues on any part of
+the coast. They live in houses covered with palm-leaves, and their
+plantations are in straight lines and are surrounded by a hedge of
+reeds."
+
+It was useless to make a second attempt to land. Cook having bestowed
+the name of Cape Traitor upon the scene of the collision, reached an
+island, which he had seen the previous evening, and which the natives
+called Tanna.
+
+"The highest hill of the same range is of conical shape," says Forster,
+"with a crater in the centre. It is reddish brown, and composed of a
+mass of burnt stones, perfectly sterile. From time to time it emitted
+a thick column of smoke like a great tree, increasing in width as it
+ascended."
+
+The _Resolution_ was at once surrounded by a score of pirogues, the
+largest of which contained twenty-five men. The latter sought to
+appropriate everything within their reach, buoys, flags, the hinges of
+the rudder, which they tried to knock off. They only returned to the
+shore after a four-pounder had been fired over their heads.
+
+The vessel made for the shore, but all the trifles that were
+distributed could not induce the natives to relinquish their attitude
+of defiance and bravado. It was clear that the smallest
+misunderstanding would lead to bloodshed.
+
+Cook imagined these people to be cannibals, although pigs, fowls,
+roots, and fruits abounded.
+
+During the stay prudence prevented any one leaving the shore. Forster,
+however, ventured a little way and discovered a spring of water, so
+hot that he could not hold his finger in it longer than a second. In
+spite of all their wishes, the English found it impossible to reach
+the central volcano, which emitted torrents of fire and smoke as high
+as the clouds, and projected enormously large stones into the air. The
+number of extinct volcanoes in every direction was considerable, and
+the soil was decidedly subject to volcanic eruptions. By degrees,
+though without losing their reserve, the Tannians became more at home
+with the strangers, and intercourse was less difficult.
+
+"These people," says Cook, "showed themselves hospitable, civil, and
+good-hearted, when we did not excite their jealousy. We cannot blame
+their conduct greatly, for after all, from what point of view can they
+have judged us? They could not possibly know our real intentions. We
+entered their country, as they dared not oppose us; we endeavoured to
+disembark as friends, but we landed and maintained our superiority by
+force of arms. Under such circumstances what opinion could the natives
+form of us? It doubtless appeared far more plausible that we came to
+invade their country, than that we visited them as friends. Time only,
+and intimate relations, could teach them our good intentions."
+
+However that might be, the English were at a loss to guess why the
+natives prevented their penetrating to the interior of the country.
+Was it owing to a naturally shy nature? or possibly because they were
+threatened with constant inroads from their neighbours. Their address
+in the use of arms and their bearing supported this idea, but it was
+impossible to know with any certainty.
+
+As the natives did not value anything the English offered, they did
+not bring any great quantity of the fruits and roots the latter longed
+for. They would not consent to part with their pigs even for hatchets,
+the utility of which they had proved.
+
+The productions of the island included bread-fruits, cocoa-nuts, a
+fruit like a peach, called "parre," yams, potatoes, wild pigs, nutmegs,
+and many others of which Forster did not know the names.
+
+On the 21st Cook left Tanna, discovered successively, Erromam and
+Annatom Islands, and coasted Sandwich Island. He passed Mallicolo and
+Quiros' Land of the Holy Spirit, where he easily recognized St. James
+and St. Philip Bays, and left this archipelago after having named it
+New Hebrides, by which appellation it is now known.
+
+A new discovery was made on the 5th of September. No European foot had
+ever trodden the soil he now sighted. It was the northern extremity of
+New Caledonia. The first point recognized was called Cape Colnett,
+after one of the volunteers who saw it first. The coast was bordered
+by a chain of breakers, behind which two or three pirogues appeared to
+be paddling, so as to reconnoitre the new-comers. But at sunrise they
+brailed their sails and were seen no more.
+
+Having cruised for two hours along the outer reefs, Cook perceived an
+opening which he thought would enable him to draw near. He steered for
+it and landed at Balade.
+
+The country appeared sterile, and uniformly covered with a whitish
+grass. Some trees with white trunks, like the willow in shape, were
+seen here and there. They were "niaoulis." At the same time several
+houses like bee-hives were perceived.
+
+No sooner was anchor cast than fifteen or more pirogues surrounded the
+vessel. The natives had sufficient confidence to approach and begin
+traffic. Some of them even entered the ship, and inspected all the
+various parts of it with extreme curiosity. They refused to touch the
+dishes offered them, stewed peas, beef, and salt pork, but they
+voluntarily tasted the yams. They were most surprised at the goats,
+pigs, dogs, and cats, which were so strange to them that they had no
+words to designate them. Nails, all iron implements, and red stuffs,
+appeared precious to them. Tall, strong, and well-proportioned, with
+curly hair and beard, and of dark chocolate colour, they spoke a
+language which bore no resemblance to any which the English had
+hitherto heard.
+
+[Illustration: "The natives had sufficient confidence."]
+
+When the captain landed he was received with joyful demonstrations,
+and with the surprise natural to people who are brought face to face
+with objects of which they have had no previous idea. Some of the
+chiefs, enjoining silence, made short harangues, and Cook began the
+usual distribution of ironmongery and hardware. His officers mixed
+with the crowd to make observations.
+
+Many of the natives appeared afflicted with a kind of leprosy, and
+their arms and legs were greatly swollen. They were all but naked,
+wearing merely a cord tightened to the figure, from which hung scraps
+of stuff made from the fig-tree. A few wore enormous cylindrical hats,
+open on two sides, like the hats of the Hungarian hussars. They hung
+tortoiseshell earrings or rolls of the leaves of the sugar-cane in
+their ears, which were pulled out and split.
+
+The English soon perceived a little village above the mangroves which
+bordered the shore. It was surrounded by sugar-cane plantations, yams,
+and banana-trees, and watered by little canals, cleverly diverted from
+the large river.
+
+Cook soon discovered that he need expect nothing of this race but
+permission to survey the country.
+
+"These natives," he says, "taught us a few words of their language,
+which bore no resemblance to that of any other tribe. They were mild
+and peaceable in character, but extremely lazy. If we addressed them
+they replied, but if we continued our way seldom joined us in our
+excursions. If we passed their cabins without remark, they took no
+notice of us. The women were slightly more curious, and hid themselves
+in the bushes to look after us, but they would only approach in the
+company of the men. They appeared neither vexed nor alarmed when we
+shot birds. Indeed, if we were near their huts, the young people would
+point them out to us, for the pleasure of seeing us fire. They
+appeared to have very little to do at this time of year. Having tilled
+the ground, and sown roots and bananas, they awaited their crops next
+summer.
+
+"Perhaps in this fact lay the explanation of their having no
+provisions to offer in traffic, for in other respects we found them
+fully alive to the hospitable instinct which more particularly
+commends the islanders of the southern seas to navigators."
+
+Cook's assertion of the indolence of the New Caledonians is perfectly
+true. But his stay amongst them was too short to enable him to
+appreciate their character thoroughly; and he certainly never
+suspected that they indulged in the horrible practice of cannibalism.
+He noticed no birds living in a wild state there excepting quails,
+turtle-doves, pigeons, turkeys, ducks, teal, and a few smaller ones.
+He could not ascertain the presence of any quadrupeds, and he entirely
+failed in his endeavours to procure provisions.
+
+At Balade the captain made several excursions into the interior, and
+climbed the mountains to gain a general view over the country. From
+the summit of a rock he clearly saw the two coasts and ascertained
+that New Caledonia in this part was only ten leagues in width.
+
+In its general features the country resembled various portions of New
+Holland, which is in the same latitude. The productions of both appear
+to be the same, and there is an absence of brushwood in the forests of
+both.
+
+Cook also observed the presence of minerals on the hills, and his
+discovery has been verified in late years by the proved existence of
+gold, iron, copper, coal, and nickel.
+
+A few of the crew met with a similar adventure here to that which had
+been almost fatal to some of them in the neighbourhood of Mallicolo.
+
+Cook relates it thus:--"My secretary bought a fish which had been
+harpooned by a native, and sent it to me on board. This fish was of an
+entirely new species, and resembled that known as sun-fish, it was of
+the order called 'tetrodon' by Linnaeus. Its head was hideous, wide
+and long. Never suspecting that it might be poisonous, I ordered it to
+be served at table the same evening. Fortunately so much time was
+consumed in drawing and describing it that no time was left for the
+cooking, and only the liver was served.
+
+"The two Forsters and myself partook of it, and towards three in the
+morning we experienced a sensation of weakness and want of power in
+our limbs. I all but lost the sense of touch, and could no longer
+distinguish light from heavy objects when I desired to move them. A
+pot full of water and a feather appeared to me equally heavy. We first
+resorted to emetics, and afterwards we succeeded in inducing
+perspiration, which relieved us greatly. In the morning, a pig which
+had eaten the entrails of the fish was found dead. When the natives
+came on board, and saw the fish hanging up, they made us understand
+that it was unwholesome. They showed their disgust of it, but neither
+in selling it, or even after having been paid for it, had they given
+the slightest hint of such aversion."
+
+Cook next proceeded to the survey of the greater part of the eastern
+coast. During this excursion he met with a native as white as a
+European. His complexion was attributed to illness. This man was an
+Albino, like those already met with in Tahiti and the Society Islands.
+
+The captain was anxious to acclimatize pigs in New Caledonia, but he
+had the greatest difficulty in inducing the natives to accept a hog
+and a sow. He was forced to insist upon their usefulness, the facility
+of breeding them, and to exaggerate their value before the natives
+would consent to their being landed.
+
+Cook describes the New Caledonians as tall, robust, active, polite,
+and peaceable. He gives them the rare character of honesty. But his
+successors in this country, more especially D'Entrecasteaux,
+discovered to their detriment that they did not preserve this quality.
+Some of them had the thick lips, flat nose, and general appearance of
+the negro. Their naturally curly hair added to the resemblance.
+
+"If I were to guess," says Cook, "at the origin of this people, I
+should take them to be an intermediate race between the people of
+Tanna and the Friendly Islands, or between those of Tanna and New
+Zealand, or possibly between all three, for their language is in some
+respects a sort of mixture of that of these different countries."
+
+The frequency of war amongst them is indicated by the number of their
+offensive weapons, clubs, spears, lances, slings, javelins, &c. The
+stones used for their slings are smooth and oval. Their houses are
+built on a circular plan, most of them being like bee-hives, with the
+roof of considerable height, and terminating in a point. They always
+have one or two fires alight, but as there is only one outlet for the
+smoke, through the doorway, no European could live in them.
+
+[Illustration: "With the roof of considerable height."]
+
+They subsisted entirely upon fish and roots, such as yams, and the
+bark of a tree, which was but little succulent. Bananas, sugar-canes,
+and bread-fruit were rare, and cocoa-nuts did not flourish so well as
+in the island previously visited by the English. The number of
+inhabitants appeared considerable. But Cook justly remarked that his
+arrival had brought about a general reunion of all the tribes, and
+Lieutenant Pickersgill decided during his hydrographical excursions
+that the country was sparsely populated.
+
+The New Caledonians buried their dead. Many of the crew visited their
+cemeteries, and especially the tomb of a chief, which was a kind of
+mound, decorated with spears, javelins, arrows, and darts, which were
+stuck around it.
+
+Cook left the harbour of Balade, and continued to coast New Caledonia,
+without finding fresh provisions. The aspect of the country was
+universally sterile. But quite to the south of this large land a
+smaller one was discovered, to which the name of Pine Island was given,
+on account of the number of pine trees upon it.
+
+They were a species of Prussian pine, very appropriate for the spars
+needed for the _Resolution_. Cook accordingly sent a sloop and some
+men to choose and cut the trees he needed. Some of them were twenty
+inches in diameter, and seventy feet high, so that a mast could have
+been formed of one had it been needed. The discovery of this island
+had a certain value, as, with the exception of New Zealand, it was the
+only one in the entire Pacific Ocean which produced wood fit for masts
+and poles.
+
+In steering southwards towards New Zealand, Cook sighted a small
+uninhabited island on the 10th of October, upon which the botanists
+reaped a plentiful harvest of unknown vegetables. It was Norfolk
+Island, so named in honour of the Howard family. It was afterwards
+colonized by a part of the mutineers of the _Bounty_.
+
+The _Resolution_ anchored again in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The
+gardens so anxiously planted by the English had been entirely
+neglected by the New Zealanders, but in spite of this several plants
+had grown marvellously.
+
+The natives were very shy of appearing at first, and seemed to care
+little for any intercourse with the strangers; but when they
+recognized their old friends, they testified their delight most
+extravagantly. When asked why they had been so reserved at first, they
+evaded a reply, and there was no doubt that they were thinking of
+murder and combats.
+
+This aroused Cook's apprehensions for the fate of the _Adventure_, of
+which he had heard nothing since his last stay in this port, but he
+could obtain no reply to the questions he put. He was only to learn
+what had occurred in his absence, when he reached the Cape of Good
+Hope, and found letters from Captain Furneaux.
+
+After once more landing some pigs, with which he wished to endow New
+Zealand, the captain set sail for Cape Horn on the 10th of November.
+After a vain cruise, he at last sighted the eastern shore of Tierra
+del Fuego, near the entrance to the Straits of Magellan.
+
+"The portion of America which now met our view," says Cook, "was
+dreary enough. It seemed to be cut up into small islands, which though
+by no means high, were very black, and almost entirely barren. In the
+background, we saw high ground covered with snow, almost to the
+water's edge. It is the wildest shore I have ever seen, and appears
+entirely composed of mountains and rocks, without a vestige of
+vegetation. The mountains overhang horrible precipices, the sharp
+peaks of which arise to great height. Probably there is nothing in
+nature which presents so wild an appearance. The interior mountains
+are covered with snow, but those bordering the sea are not. We
+imagined the former to belong to Tierra del Fuego, and the latter to
+be ranged over the small islands in such a way as to present the
+appearance of an uninterrupted coast."
+
+The captain still thought it better to remain some time in this
+desolate region, to procure fresh victuals for his crew. He found safe
+anchorage in Christmas Sound, where as usual, he made a careful
+hydrographical survey.
+
+[Illustration: View of Christmas Sound.]
+
+Several birds were shot, and Mr. Pickersgill brought three hundred
+sea-gull's eggs and fourteen geese on board.
+
+"I was thus enabled," says Cook, "to distribute them to the entire
+crew, a fact which gave the greater satisfaction as it was near
+Christmas. Without this timely supply, they must have contented
+themselves with beef and salt pork."
+
+Some of the natives, belonging to the nation called "Pecherais" by
+Bougainville, came on board without any pressing. Cook's description
+of these savages recalls that of the French explorer. They preferred
+the oily portions of the flesh of the seals upon which they lived--a
+taste which Cook attributed to the fact that the oil warmed their
+blood, and enabled them to resist the intense cold.
+
+"If," he adds, "the superiority of a civilized to a savage life could
+ever be called in question, a single glance at one of these Indians
+would be sufficient to settle the question. Until it is proved that a
+man perpetually tortured by the rigour of a climate is happy, I shall
+never give in to the eloquent declamations of those philosophers who
+have never had the opportunity of observing human nature in all its
+phases, or who have not felt what they have seen."
+
+The _Resolution_ at once set sail and doubled Cape Horn. The Strait of
+Lemaire was then crossed, and Staten Island reconnoitred. Here a good
+anchorage was found. Quantities of whales abound in these latitudes.
+It was now their pairing season, and seals and sea-lions, penguins and
+garnets appeared in shoals.
+
+"Dr. Sparman and myself," says Forster, "narrowly escaped being
+attacked by one of these sea-monsters, upon a rock where several of
+them were assembled, appearing to wait the upshot of the struggle. The
+doctor had fired at a bird, and stooped to pick it up, when the
+sea-lion growled, and showing his tusks, seemed disposed to attack my
+companion. From where I was posted I shot the animal stark dead, and
+at the report of my gun the herd, seeing their companion fall, fled
+along the coast. Several of them threw themselves into the sea with
+such haste, that they jumped ten or fifteen roods, straight upon the
+pointed rocks. But I do not think they hurt themselves much, for their
+skin is very hard and their fat is so elastic that it is easily
+compressed."
+
+After leaving Staten Island, Cook set sail on the 3rd of January, for
+the south-east, to explore the only part of the ocean which had
+hitherto escaped him. He soon reached Southern Georgia, seen in 1675
+by Laroche, and again by M. Guyot Duclos in 1756, when in command of
+the Spanish vessel the _Leon_. This discovery was made on the 14th of
+January, 1775. The captain landed in three places and took possession
+in the name of King George III. of England, bestowing his name upon
+the newly-found country. Possession Bay is bordered by pointed rocks
+of ice exactly similar to those which had been met with in the high
+southern latitudes.
+
+"The interior of the country," says the narrative, "is no less savage
+and frightful. The summits of the rocks are lost in the clouds and the
+valleys are covered with perpetual snow. Not a tree or even the
+smallest shrub is to be seen."
+
+After leaving Georgia, Cook penetrated further to the south-east,
+amidst floating ice. The continual dangers of the voyage overcame the
+crew. Southern Thule, Saunder's Island, and Chandeleur Islands, and
+finally Sandwich Land were discovered. These sterile and deserted
+archipelagoes have no value for the merchant or geographer. Once
+certain of their existence, it was unnecessary to remain, for to do so
+was to risk in exploring them the valuable records the _Resolution_
+was taking to England.
+
+Cook was convinced by the discovery of these isolated islands "that
+near the pole there is a stretch of land, where the greater part of
+the floating ice spread over this vast southern ocean is formed." This
+ingenious theory has been confirmed in every particular by the
+explorers of the 19th century.
+
+After another fruitless search for Cape Circumcision, mentioned by
+Bouvet, Cook decided to regain the Cape of Good Hope, and he arrived
+there on the 22nd of March, 1775.
+
+The _Adventure_ had put into this port, where Captain Furneaux had
+left a letter relating all that had happened in New Zealand. Captain
+Furneaux arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound on the 13th of November,
+1773, and took in wood and water. He then sent one of his boats under
+Lieutenant Rowe to gather edible plants. As the lieutenant did not
+return on board either in the evening or the next morning, Captain
+Furneaux, feeling sure that an accident had happened, sent in search
+of him. The following is a short account of what he learned.
+
+After various useless searchings, the officer in command of the sloop
+came upon some traces, as he landed upon the shore, near Grass Creek.
+Portions of a boat and some shoes, one of which had belonged to an
+officer of the watch, were found. A sailor, at the same time, noticed
+a piece of fresh meat, which was taken to be the flesh of a dog, for
+it was not known then that the people of the place were cannibals. "We
+opened," says Furneaux, "about eight baskets which we found on the
+beach, tightly corded. Some were full of roast flesh, and others of
+roots used by the natives for bread. Continuing our search, we found
+more shoes, and a hand, which we recognized as that of Thomas Hill,
+because T. H. was tatooed upon it in the Tahitan fashion.
+
+"At a short distance an officer perceived four pirogues and a number
+of natives, assembled round a large fire. The English landed and fired
+a regular volley, which put the Zealanders to flight, with the
+exception of two, who left with the greatest _sang-froid_. One of them
+was severely wounded, and the sailors advanced up the beach.
+
+"A frightful scene was soon presented before our eyes. We saw the
+heads, hearts, and lungs of many of the crew upon the sands, and at a
+little distance dogs were devouring the entrails."
+
+The officer had not a sufficient force with him, being backed by only
+ten men, to meet this fearful massacre with fitting vengeance. The
+weather, too, became bad, and the savages collected in large numbers.
+It was necessary to regain the _Adventure_.
+
+"I do not believe," says Captain Furneaux, "that this butchery was
+premeditated on the part of the natives, for in the morning Mr. Rowe
+said that he observed two vessels pass us, and remain all the forenoon
+in sight of the ship. The bloodshed was most likely the result of a
+quarrel which was instantly fought out, or possibly as our men took no
+measures for their own safety, their want of caution tempted the
+Indians."
+
+The natives having heard one discharge, were encouraged by observing
+that a gun was not an infallible instrument, that it sometimes missed
+fire, and that once fired it was necessary to reload before firing
+again.
+
+In this fearful ambuscade the _Adventure_ lost ten of her best sailors.
+
+Furneaux left New Zealand on the 23rd of December, 1773, doubled Cape
+Horn, put into the Cape of Good Hope, and reached England on the 14th
+of July, 1774.
+
+After Cook had taken in provisions and repaired his vessel, he left
+False Bay on the 27th of May, put into St. Helena, Ascension Island,
+and Fernando de Noronha, at Fayal, one of the Azores, and finally at
+Plymouth, on the 29th of July, 1775. During his voyage of three years
+and eighteen days, he had only lost four men, that is to say, without
+reckoning the ten sailors who were massacred at New Zealand.
+
+No former expedition had reaped such a harvest of discoveries and
+hydrographical, physical, and ethnological observations. The learned
+and ingenious investigations pursued by Cook elucidated many of the
+difficulties of earlier navigators. He made various important
+discoveries, amongst others, that of New Caledonia and Easter Island.
+The non-existence of an antarctic continent was definitely ascertained.
+The great navigator received the fitting reward of his labours almost
+immediately. He was nominated ship's captain nine days after his
+landing, and was elected a member of the Royal Society of London on
+the 29th of February, 1776.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE.
+
+
+I.
+
+Search for the lands discovered by the French--Kerguelen Islands--Stay
+at Van Diemen's Land--Queen Charlotte's Strait--Palmerston Island--
+Grand rejoicings in the Tonga Islands.
+
+
+At this date the idea which had sent so many explorers to Greenland
+was in full force. The question of the existence of a northern passage
+between the Atlantic and the Pacific, by way of the Asiatic or
+American coasts, was eagerly discussed: and should such a passage
+exist, was it practicable for ships? The attempt had quite lately been
+made, to discover this outlet in Hudson or Baffin Bays, and it was now
+determined to seek it in the Pacific.
+
+The task was an arduous one. The Lords of the Admiralty felt that it
+was essential to send out a navigator who had experience of the
+dangers of the Polar Seas, and one who had shown presence of mind in
+the face of danger; one moreover, whose talents, experience, and
+scientific knowledge might be of use in the powerful equipment then in
+course of preparation.
+
+In Captain Cook alone were all the requisite qualities to be found.
+The command was offered to him, and although he might have passed the
+remainder of his days in peace at his post in the Greenwich
+Observatory, in the full enjoyment of the honour and glory he had
+gained by his two voyages round the world, he did not hesitate for a
+moment.
+
+Two ships, the _Resolution_ and the _Discovery_, were placed under his
+command. The latter was under the orders of Captain Clerke; and the
+equipment of both was similar to that of the last expedition.
+
+The instructions given to the commander of the expedition, enjoined
+his reaching the Cape of Good Hope, and steering south in search of
+the islands recently discovered by the French, in 48 degrees of
+latitude, towards the meridian of the island of Mauritius. He was then
+to touch at New Zealand, if he thought well, to take in refreshments
+at the Society Islands, and to land the Tahitan Mai there; then to
+proceed to New Albion, to avoid landing in any of the Spanish
+possessions in America, and from thence to make his way by the Arctic
+Ocean to Hudson and Baffin Bays. In other words he was to look in an
+easterly direction for the north-west passage. This once effected,
+after a stay at Kamschatka, he was to make another attempt to reach
+England by the route he might judge most productive of good results
+for geography and navigation.
+
+The two vessels did not start together. The _Resolution_ set sail from
+Plymouth on the 12th of July, 1776, and was rejoined at the Cape by
+the _Discovery_ on the 10th of the following November, she having left
+England only on the 1st of August.
+
+The two ships were detained at the Cape until the 30th of November, by
+the repairs needed by the _Discovery_. Much damaged by tempest, she
+required calking. The captain profited by this long delay, to buy live
+stock, which he intended to land at Tahiti and New Zealand, and also
+to stock his vessels with the necessary stores for a two-years' voyage.
+
+After steering southwards for twelve days, two islands were discovered
+in 46 degrees 53 minutes south latitude, and 37 degrees 46 minutes
+east longitude. The strait which separates them was crossed, and it
+was found that their steep sterile coasts were uninhabited. They had
+been discovered with four others, from nine to twelve degrees further
+east, by the French Captains Marion-Dufresne and Crozet, in 1772.
+
+On the 24th of December, Cook found the islands which M. de Kerguelen
+had surveyed in his two voyages of 1772, 1773.
+
+[Illustration: Kerguelen Islands.]
+
+We will not here relate the observations made by Cook upon this group.
+As they agree in every particular with those of M. de Kerguelen, we
+can reserve them until we relate the adventures of that navigator, and
+content ourselves with remarking that Cook surveyed the coasts
+carefully, and left them on the 31st of December. The vessels were
+enveloped in a thick fog, which accompanied them for more than 300
+leagues.
+
+Anchor was cast in Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's Land, on the 26th of
+January. It was the same spot at which Captain Furneaux had touched
+four years earlier. The English were visited by a few natives, who
+received the presents offered to them, without showing any
+satisfaction.
+
+The narrative says,--
+
+"They were of ordinary height, but rather slightly built. Their skin
+was black and their hair of the same colour, and as woolly as that of
+the negroes of New Guinea, but they had not the thick lips or flat
+noses of African negroes. There was nothing disagreeable in their
+features, and their eyes struck us as beautiful, so did their teeth,
+but they were very dirty. Most of them anointed their hair and beards
+with a yellow ointment, and some even rubbed their faces with the same
+stuff."
+
+Concise as this account is, it is not the less valuable. The race of
+Tasmanians is extinct, the last of them died a few years ago.
+
+Cook weighed anchor on the 30th of January, and took up his station at
+his usual point in Queen Charlotte's Strait. The vessels were soon
+surrounded by pirogues, but not a single native ventured to go on
+board, they were so fully persuaded that the English had come to
+avenge their murdered comrades. Once convinced that the English had no
+such intention, they banished their mistrust and reserve. The captain
+soon found out by Mai's interpretation (he understanding the Zealand
+tongue) the right cause of this terrible catastrophe.
+
+It appeared that the English had been seated on the grass, taking
+their evening meal when the natives committed several thefts. One of
+them was caught and struck by a sailor. At his cry, his companions
+rushed upon the sailors of the _Adventure_, who killed two of them,
+but unfortunately succumbed to numbers. Several of the Zealanders
+pointed out to Cook the chief who had directed the carnage, and urged
+Cook to kill him. But to the great surprise of the natives and the
+stupefaction of Mai, the captain refused.
+
+Mai remarked, "In England they kill a man who assassinates another;
+this fellow killed ten, and you take no revenge!"
+
+Before he left, Cook landed pigs and goats, hoping that these animals
+might at length become acclimatized to New Zealand.
+
+Mai had a wish to take a New Zealander to Tahiti. Two offered to go,
+and Cook agreed to receive them, warning them at the same time that
+they would never see their native land again. But no sooner had the
+vessels lost sight of the shores of New Zealand than they began to
+weep. Sea-sickness added to their distress. But as they recovered from
+it their sadness disappeared, and they soon attached themselves to
+their new friends.
+
+An island named Mangea was discovered on the 29th of March. At Mai's
+representations the inhabitants decided to come on board. Small, but
+vigorous and well-proportioned, they wore their hair knotted upon the
+top of the head. They wore long beards, and were tatooed in all parts
+of their bodies. Cook could not carry out his earnest wish to land, as
+the people were too hostile.
+
+A new island, similar to the last, was discovered four leagues further
+on. The natives appeared more friendly than those of Mangea, and Cook
+profited by this fact, and landed a detachment under Lieutenant Gore,
+with Mai as interpreter. Anderson, the naturalist, an officer named
+Barnes, and Mai landed alone and unarmed, running the risk of being
+maltreated.
+
+They were received with solemnity, and conducted through a crowd of
+men, with clubs on their shoulders, to the presence of three chiefs,
+whose ears were adorned with red feathers. They soon perceived a score
+of women, who danced in a grave and serious fashion, paying no
+attention to their arrival.
+
+The officers were separated from each other, and observing that the
+natives hastened to empty their pockets, they began to entertain fears
+for their safety, when Mai reappeared. They were detained all day, and
+forced several times to take their clothes off, and allow the natives
+to examine the colour of their skin; but night arrived at last,
+without the occurrence of any disagreeable incident. The visitors
+regained their sloop, and cocoa-nuts, bananas, and other provisions
+were brought to them.
+
+The English may have owed their safety to the description Mai had
+given of the power of their weapons, and the experiment he made before
+them of setting fire to a cartridge.
+
+Mai had recognized three of his fellow-countrymen in the crowd on the
+beach.
+
+These Tahitans had started in a pirogue to reach Ulitea Island, and
+had been driven out of their course by contrary winds. As they
+expected a short voyage, they had not provided themselves with food.
+Famine and fatigue had reduced their number to four men, all of them
+half dead, when the pirogue capsized. The unfortunate wretches managed
+to seize the side of their boat and support themselves in the water
+until they were picked up by the inhabitants of this island, Wateroo.
+It was now twelve years since fate threw them upon this shore, more
+than two hundred leagues from their native island. They had contracted
+family ties and friendly alliances with these people, whose manners
+and language were not unlike their own. They refused to return to
+Tahiti.
+
+Cook says, "We may find in this incident a better explanation of the
+way in which detached portions of the globe, and particularly the
+islands of the Pacific, have been peopled, than in any theories;
+especially in regard to those which are far from any other continent,
+and at a great distance from each other."
+
+Wateroo Island is situated in 20 degrees 1 minute south latitude, and
+201 degrees 45 minutes east longitude.
+
+The two vessels afterwards reached a neighbouring island called Wenooa,
+upon which M. Gore landed to get fodder. Although the ruins of houses
+and tents were seen, it was uninhabited.
+
+On the 5th of April, Cook arrived in sight of Harvey Island, which he
+had discovered during his second voyage in 1773. At that time it
+appeared to him deserted. He was, therefore, astonished to see several
+pirogues leave the shore and approach the ships. But the natives could
+not find courage to go on board.
+
+Their fierce appearance and noisy offers did not promise well for
+their friendly intentions.
+
+Their language was still more like that of Tahiti, than that of the
+last islands they had visited.
+
+Lieutenant King was sent in search of good anchorage, but could not
+succeed in finding a suitable harbour. The natives, armed with spears
+and clubs, appeared disposed to resent any attempt at landing.
+
+Cook, in his great need of wood and water, determined to reach the
+Friendly Islands. He was sure of finding refreshments for his men and
+forage for his beasts there. The season was too far advanced, and the
+distance between these latitudes and the pole too great to allow of
+anything being attempted in the southern hemisphere.
+
+The wind obliged him to relinquish his idea of reaching Middlebourgh
+or Eoa, as he had at first intended. He therefore, directed his course
+towards Palmerston Island, where he arrived on the 14th of April, and
+where he found birds in abundance, scurvy grass, and cocoa-nuts. This
+island was merely a collection of nine or ten islets, very slightly
+raised, appearing almost like the points of reefs, belonging to one
+coral bank.
+
+The English reached Komango Island on the 28th of April, and the
+natives brought them quantities of cocoa-nuts, bananas, and other
+stores.
+
+They then proceeded to Annamooka, which is also part of the Tonga, or
+Friendly archipelago.
+
+On the 6th of May, a chief of Tonga Tabou, named Finaou, visited Cook.
+He called himself king of all the Friendly Islands.
+
+"I received," says Cook, "a present from this great personage of two
+fish, which were brought to me by one of his servants. I paid him a
+visit after dinner. He came to meet me as soon as he saw me land. He
+appeared some thirty years of age, tall and of slender form, and I
+have met no countenance in these islands so European in 'type.'"
+
+When all the provisions of this island were exhausted, Cook visited a
+group of islets called Hapaee, where his reception was friendly, owing
+to the orders given by Finaou, and where he procured pigs, water,
+fruits, and roots. Some of the native warriors exhibited their skill
+in various singular combats, with clubs and boxing.
+
+"What most surprised us," says the narrative, "was to see two great
+women enter the lists, and attack each other with their fists, without
+the least ceremony, and with as much skill as the men. Their fight
+lasted about half a minute, when one of them declared herself beaten.
+The victorious heroine received as much applause from the assembled
+multitude as is usually accorded to a man who has overcome his rival
+by his skill and address."
+
+There was no cessation of the fetes and games. A dance was executed to
+the sound of two drums, or rather of two hollow trunks, by a hundred
+and five performers, supported by a vocal choir. Cook reciprocated
+these demonstrations by putting his soldiers through their artillery
+exercises, and letting off fireworks, which produced indescribable
+astonishment in the minds of the natives.
+
+Not wishing to be out-done in the attempt at display, the natives gave
+a concert, and then a dance, executed by twenty women crowned with
+China roses. This magnificent ballet was followed by another
+performance by fifteen men. But we shall never end, if we attempt to
+give an account of the wonders of this enthusiastic reception. It
+justly gained for the Tonga archipelago the name of Friendly Islands.
+
+On the 23rd, Finaou, who had represented himself as king of the entire
+archipelago, came to inform Cook of his departure for the neighbouring
+island of Vavaoo. He had excellent reasons for this, as he had just
+heard of the arrival of the real sovereign, named Futtafaih or Poulaho.
+
+Cook at first refused to recognize the new-comer in this character,
+but he soon had irrefutable proof that the title of king belonged to
+him.
+
+Poulaho was extremely stout, which with his short height made him look
+like a barrel. If rank is proportioned to size in these islands, he
+was without exception the _greatest_ chief the English had met with.
+Intelligent, grave, and dignified, he examined the vessel and
+everything that was new to him in detail, put judicious questions, and
+inquired into the motives of the arrival of these vessels. His
+followers objected to his descending below decks, saying it was
+"_tabu_" and that it was not allowed for any one to walk over his head.
+Cook, however, promised through the interpreter Mai that no one should
+be allowed to walk over his cabin, and so Poulaho dined with the
+captain. He ate little and drank still less, and invited Cook to land
+with him. The marks of respect lavished upon Poulaho by all the
+natives, convinced Cook that he had been entertaining the real
+sovereign of the archipelago.
+
+On the 29th of May, Cook set sail on his return to Annamooka, thence
+to Tonga Tabou, where a feast or "_keiva_," more magnificent than any
+he had seen, was given in his honour.
+
+"In the evening," he said, "we had the spectacle of a '_bomai_,' that
+is to say, the dances of the night were performed in front of Finaou's
+house. We saw twelve dances during the time. They were executed by
+women, and in the midst of them we noticed the arrival of a number of
+men, who formed a ring within that of the dancing women. Twenty-four
+men, who executed a third, made a movement with the hands, which was
+greatly applauded, and which we had not previously seen. The orchestra
+was renewed once. Finaou appeared upon the scene at the head of fifty
+dancers, most magnificently apparelled. His garment consisted of cloth
+and a large piece of gauze, and round his neck small figures were
+suspended."
+
+[Illustration: Fete in Cook's honour at Tonga.]
+
+Cook, after a stay of three months, thought it well to leave these
+enchanting islands, he distributed a share of the cattle he had bought
+at the Cape, and explained, through Mai, the way to feed them, and
+their utility. Before leaving, he visited a cemetery or "Fiatooka,"
+belonging to the king, composed of three good-sized houses, placed on
+the edge of a sort of hill. The planks of these buildings, and the
+artificial hills which supported them, were covered with pretty
+movable pebbles, and flat stones, placed erect, surrounded the whole.
+
+"One thing which we had not previously seen, was that the buildings
+were open on one side, and within there were two wooden busts, roughly
+carved, one at the entrance, and the other a little within. The
+natives followed us to the door, but dared not pass the threshold. We
+asked them the meaning of the busts: they assured us that they did not
+represent any divinity, but were intended to recall two chiefs who
+were buried in the 'Fiatooka.'"
+
+Leaving Tonga Tabou on the 10th of July, Cook repaired to the small of
+Eoa, where his old friend Tai-One received him cordially. The captain
+learned from him that the property of the various islands in the
+archipelago belonged to the chiefs of Tonga Tabou, which was known as
+the land of the chiefs. Thus Poulaho had a hundred and fifty islands
+under his rule. The most important are Vavao and Hamao. As for the
+Viti Islands, which are comprised in this number, they were inhabited
+by a warlike race, very superior in intelligence to those of the
+Friendly Islands.
+
+We can only refer to some of the many and interesting particulars
+collected by the captain and the naturalist Anderson, which relate to
+the gentleness and docility of the natives.
+
+Cook could do nothing but praise the welcome accorded to him, each
+time he stayed in the archipelago. But then he did not guess the
+project entertained by Finaou, and the other chiefs, of assassinating
+him during the nocturnal feast of Hapaee, and of seizing his vessels.
+
+The navigators who succeeded him were not lavish in their praises, and
+if we did not know his sincerity, we should be tempted to think that
+the illustrious mariner gave the name of Friendly Islands to this
+group satirically.
+
+The inhabitants of Tonga Island always mourned the death of a relation,
+by hitting themselves on their cheeks, and by tearing them with
+whale's teeth, a custom which explains the many tumours and cicatrices
+they have on the face. If their friends are dangerously ill, they
+sacrifice one or two joints of their little finger, to propitiate the
+divinity, and Cook did not meet with one native in ten who was not
+mutilated.
+
+The expression "tabu," he says, "which plays so great a part in the
+language of this people, has a very wide significance. When they are
+not allowed to touch anything they say it is tabu. They also told us
+that if the king enters a house belonging to one of his subjects, the
+house becomes 'tabu,' and the owner of it may not live in it any
+longer."
+
+Cook fancied he had made out their religion. Their principal god was
+Kallafoutonga, and in his anger, he destroys plantations and scatters
+illness and death. The religious ideas of all the islands are not
+alike, but the immortality of the soul is unanimously admitted.
+Although they do not offer fruit or other productions of the earth to
+their divinity, they sacrifice human victims.
+
+Cook lost sight of the Tonga Islands on the 17th of July, and the
+expedition arrived in sight of an island called Tabouai by the
+inhabitants, upon the 8th of August, after a series of tempestuous
+winds which caused serious damage to the _Discovery_. All the
+eloquence of the English failed to bring the natives on board. Nothing
+would induce them to leave their boats, and they contented themselves
+with inviting the strangers to visit them. But as time pressed, and
+Cook had no need of provisions, he passed the island without stopping,
+although it appeared to him fertile, and the natives assured him that
+it abounded in pigs and fowls. Strong, tall, and active, the natives
+had a hardy and savage appearance. They spoke the Tahitan language,
+which made intercourse with them easy.
+
+Some days later, the verdant summits of Tahiti appeared on the horizon,
+and the two vessels were not slow in stopping opposite the peninsula
+of Tairabon, where the welcome Mai received from his compatriots was
+as indifferent as possible. His brother-in-law, chief Outi, would
+scarcely consent to recognize him, but when Mai showed him the
+treasures he brought back, amongst them all the famous red feathers,
+which had been so successful in Cook's last voyage, Oati changed his
+demeanour, treated Mai affably, and proposed to change names with him.
+
+Mai was overcome by these demonstrations of tenderness, and, but for
+Cook's interference, would have been robbed of all his treasures.
+
+The ships were well supplied with red feathers. Therefore fruits, pigs,
+and fowls appeared in great abundance during the stay in port. Cook,
+however, soon proceeded to Matavai Bay, where King Otoo left his
+residence at Pane, to pay his old friend a visit. Mai was disdainfully
+received by his friends there also, and although he threw himself at
+the king's feet, when he presented him with a tuft of red feathers,
+and three pieces of gold cloth, he was scarcely noticed. But as at
+Taqabou, the treatment changed suddenly upon the discovery of Mai's
+fortune, but he being only happy in the company of vagabonds, who
+laughed at him good-naturedly, even while they robbed him, was unable
+to acquire the influence over Otoo, and the principle chiefs, which
+was necessary to the development of civilization.
+
+Cook had long heard that human sacrifices were common in Tahiti, but
+he had always refused to believe it. A solemn ceremonial which he saw
+at Atahour, no longer allowed him to doubt the existence of the
+practice. In order to gain the favourable assistance of the Atoua or
+Godon in an expedition against the island of Eimeo, a man of the
+lowest social rank was killed by blows with clubs in the king's
+presence. As an offering the hair and one eye of the victim was placed
+before the king; last signs of the cannibalism which formerly existed
+in this archipelago. At the end of this barbarous ceremony, which was
+a blot in the memoirs of so peaceable a people, a king-fisher alighted
+in the foliage. "It is Atoua!" cried Otoo, delighted at the happy
+augury.
+
+[Illustration: Human sacrifice at Tahiti. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+Next day the ceremony was to be continued by a holocaust of pigs. The
+priests, like the Roman augurs, sought to read the history of the
+expedition in the dying struggles of the victims.
+
+Cook, who had silently assisted at the ceremony, could not conceal the
+horror with which it inspired him. Mai interpreted for him, eloquently
+and forcibly. Towha could scarcely contain his anger.
+
+"If the king had killed a man in England," said Mai, "as he has done
+the unhappy and innocent victim he has offered to his gods, it would
+have been impossible to save him from hanging, a punishment reserved
+for murderers and assassins." Mai's severe reflection was a little out
+of place, Cook should have remembered that manners vary with countries.
+It is absurd to attempt to apply to Tahiti, as punishment for that
+which is their custom, a punishment reserved in London for what is
+considered a crime. "Every man's house is his castle," says a popular
+proverb, which European nations have too often forgotten. Under the
+pretext of civilization, they have often shed more blood than would
+have flowed if they had not interfered.
+
+Before he left Tahiti, Cook bestowed all the animals he had had so
+much difficulty in bringing from Europe upon Otoo. They were geese,
+ducks, turkeys, goats, sheep, horses, and cattle. Otoo was at a loss
+to express his gratitude to the "Areeke no Pretonne," (King of
+Britain) especially when he found that the English could not take a
+large pirogue on board which he had constructed as an offering for his
+friend the King of England, it being too large.
+
+The _Resolution_ and the _Discovery_ left Tahiti on the 30th of
+September, and anchored at Eimeo.
+
+In this place their stay was marked by a painful incident. Frequent
+thefts had occurred for several days, when a goat was stolen. To make
+an example, Cook burnt five or six cabins, and set fire to a large
+number of pirogues, threatening the king with his anger if the animal
+were not immediately produced. As soon as he had obtained satisfaction
+the captain started for Huaheine with Mai who was to settle on that
+island.
+
+A sufficiently large space of land was ceded by the chiefs of the
+Ouare settlement in return for such presents. Upon this Cook had a
+house built, and planted a garden, where he planted European cabbages.
+Mai was left with two houses, two goats, and fowls. At the same time
+he was presented with a present of a coat of mail, of a complete set
+of armour, powder, balls, and guns. A portable organ, an electrical
+machine, fireworks, and domestic and agricultural implements completed
+the collection of useful and ornamental presents intended to give the
+Tahitans an idea of European civilization. Mai had a sister married at
+Huaheine, but her husband occupied too humble a position for him to
+attempt to despoil him. Cook then solemnly declared that the native
+was his friend, and that in a short time he should return to ascertain
+how he had been treated, and that he should severely punish those who
+had acted badly to him.
+
+His threats were likely to be effective, as a few days earlier, some
+robbers, caught in the act by the English, had had their heads shaved
+and their ears cut. A little later at Raiatea, in order to force the
+natives to send back some deserters, Cook had carried off the entire
+family of the chief Oreo on one rope.
+
+The moderation exhibited by the captain in his first voyage,
+constantly diminished; every day he became more severe and exacting.
+This change in his conduct was fatal to him.
+
+The two Zealanders who had asked to accompany Mai were landed with him.
+The elder readily consented to live at Huaheine, but the younger
+conceived such an affection for the English, that it was necessary to
+use force, as it were, to land him, amid the most touching
+demonstrations of affection. At the last moment as anchor was weighed
+Cook bid farewell to Mai, whose expression and tears testified to his
+comprehension of all he was to lose.
+
+Although Cook left satisfied with having loaded the young Tahitan who
+had trusted himself to him with benefits, he was also full of anxious
+fears as to his future. He knew his light and inconstant character,
+and he left him weapons with some regret, fearing that he might make a
+bad use of them. The King of Huaheine gave Mai his daughter in
+marriage and changed his name to Paori, by which he was afterwards
+known. Mai profited by his high station to show his cruelty and
+inhumanity. Always armed, he began to try his skill with pistol and
+gun upon his fellow-countrymen. His memory therefore is hated in
+Huaheine, and the memory of his crimes was for a long time associated
+with that of the English.
+
+Cook visited Raiatea before leaving the island. He found his friend
+Oree deprived of supreme authority. Then he went to Bolabole on the
+8th of December, and bought of the King Pouni an anchor, which
+Bougainville had lost in the roadstead.
+
+During his long sojourns in the different islands of the Society
+archipelago, Cook completed his geographical, hydrographical, and
+ethnological investigations, as well as his studies of natural history.
+
+In this difficult task he was seconded by Anderson, and by his entire
+staff, who invariably showed the greatest zeal in their efforts for
+the advancement of science.
+
+[Illustration: Tree, from beneath which Cook observed the transit of
+Venus. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+On the 24th of December Cook discovered another low island. It was
+uninhabited and the crew obtained abundance of turtle there. It was
+named Christmas Island, in honour of the solemn anniversary of the
+morrow.
+
+Although seventeen months had passed since he left England, Cook
+considered his voyage as only begun. Indeed he had not as yet been
+able to put the part of his instructions relating to the exploration
+of the Southern Atlantic and the search for a north passage, into
+execution.
+
+[Illustration: Captain Cook's chart of Otaheite.]
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+Discovery of the Sandwich Islands--Exploration of the Western shore of
+America--From thence to Behring Straits--Return to the Hawain Group--
+History of Rono--Death of Cook--Return of the Expedition to England.
+
+
+On the 18th of January, 1778, in longitude 160 degrees and latitude 20
+degrees north, the two vessels perceived the first islands of the
+Sandwich or Hawain archipelago.
+
+It did not take long to convince the navigators that they were
+inhabited. A large number of pirogues left Atooi or Tavai Island and
+surrounded the ships.
+
+The English were not a little surprised at hearing these natives speak
+in the Tahitan language. On this account the intercourse between them
+was soon friendly, and next day numbers of the islanders agreed to go
+on board. They showed their astonishment and admiration, at the sight
+of so many unknown objects, by their looks, gestures, and continual
+exclamations. Iron they were acquainted with, and called "hamaite."
+
+But their covetousness was soon excited by so many curiosities and
+precious things, and they tried to appropriate them both by honest and
+by illicit means.
+
+Their cleverness and their taste for thieving was as keen as is usual
+with the natives of the southern seas. It was necessary to take a
+thousand precautions, and they were often taken in vain, to guard
+against their larceny. The English, when they approached the shore,
+under charge of Lieutenant Williamson, to sound and search for
+anchorage, were forced to repulse the attempts of the natives by force.
+The death of one of them repressed their turbulence in a measure, and
+gave them an exalted opinion of the strength of the new arrivals.
+
+As soon, however, as the _Resolution_ and _Discovery_ had cast anchor
+in Ouai Mea Bay, Cook had himself taken on shore. He had scarcely
+touched land, when the natives assembled in a crowd upon the strand,
+prostrated themselves at his feet, and welcomed him with signs of the
+most profound respect.
+
+[Illustration: Cook's reception by the natives.]
+
+This extraordinary reception gave promise of a pleasant stay, for
+provisions appeared to be abundant; fruits, pigs, fowls, began to
+arrive from all parts. At the same time a party of natives assisted
+the English sailors in filling the casks with water, and in carrying
+them on board.
+
+Anderson and the draughtsman Weller were encouraged by this friendly
+conduct to advance into the interior. They were not long in coming
+upon a _morai_, similar in every respect to the Tahitian _morais_.
+This discovery confirmed the English in the ideas induced by the
+similarity of the language with that of Tahiti. An engraving in Cook's
+narrative represents the interior of this _morai_. In it two figures
+may be seen, standing, the top of the heads disappearing in high
+cylindrical hats, similar to those on the statues in Easter Island. In
+any case, the singular resemblance gives rise to reflection.
+
+Cook remained two days more in this anchorage and could only extol the
+traffic with the natives. He then explored the neighbouring Island of
+Oneeheow. In spite of his great wish to explore this interesting
+archipelago, he set sail, and from a distance perceived Ouahou Island,
+and the reef of Tahoora which he designated by the general appellation
+of Sandwich Archipelago. This name has been superseded by the native
+appellation of Hawai. Strong and vigorous, although of medium height,
+the Hawaians are represented by Anderson as being of frank and loyal
+character. Not so serious as the natives of the Friendly Isles, they
+are less frivolous than the Tahitans.
+
+Clever, industrious, and intelligent, their plantations showed a
+knowledge of rural economy, and an extensive taste for agriculture.
+They not only abstained from showing the childish and common curiosity
+which the English had so often noticed, but they inquired into their
+customs and evinced a certain regret for their own inferiority.
+
+The population appeared considerable, and was estimated at 30,000 in
+Tavai Island alone. In their style of dress, their choice of food,
+their manner of preparing it, and their general habits, they conform
+to the customs of Tahiti. This identity of two populations separated
+by a large stretch of sea gave the English much food for reflection.
+
+During his first stay Cook did not become acquainted with any chief,
+but Captain Clerke, of the _Discovery_, at last received a visit from
+one. He was a young and well-made man, wrapped up from head to foot.
+The natives testified their respect by kneeling before him. Clerke
+made him several presents, and in return received a vase decorated
+with two small figures, fairly well sculptured, which served for the
+"kava," a favourite drink of the Hawaians, as well as the natives of
+Tonga. Their weapons comprise bows, clubs, and lances, the latter made
+of a strong and durable wood, and a sort of poignard called "paphoa,"
+terminating in a point at both ends. The custom of "tabu" was just as
+universally practised as in the Friendly Islands, and the natives were
+always careful to ask if things were "tabu" before they touched them.
+
+On the 27th of February, Cook continued his course to the north, and
+soon fell in with the sea wrack of the rocks mentioned by the narrator
+of Lord Anson's voyage. On the 1st of March he steered for the east,
+in order to approach the American coast, and five days later he
+recognized New Albion, so named by Francis Drake.
+
+The expedition, coasting at a distance, surveyed Cape Blanc, already
+seen by Martin d'Aguilar on the 19th of January, 1603, and near which
+the geographers placed a large opening, to the strait, the discovery
+of which they attributed to him. Shortly afterwards the latitude of
+Juan de Fuca was reached, but nothing resembling it was discovered,
+although this strait really exists, and divides the continent from
+Vancouver's Island.
+
+Cook soon reconnoitred a bay in latitude 49 degrees 15 minutes, to
+which he gave the name of Hope Bay. He anchored there to obtain water,
+and give a little rest to his worn-out crews. This coast was inhabited,
+and three boats approached the vessels.
+
+"One of the savages," he says, "rose up, and with many gesticulations
+made a long speech, which we understood as an invitation to land. In
+addition, he threw feathers towards us, and many of his companions
+threw us handfuls of dust or red powder. The native who usurped the
+post of orator was clothed in a skin, and in each hand he held
+something which he shook, and which emitted a sound like that of a
+child's rattle.
+
+"When he was tired of haranguing and exhorting, of which we did not
+understand a word, he rested, but two other men took up the speech in
+succession. Their speeches were not so long, and they did not declaim
+so vehemently.
+
+"Many of the natives had their faces painted in an extraordinary way,
+and feathers fixed in their heads. Although they appeared friendly, it
+was impossible to persuade any of them to come on board. However, as
+the vessels had cast anchor, the captain had the sails furled, took in
+the topmasts, and unrigged the mizzen mast of the _Resolution_, in
+order to allow of repairs. Barter with the Indians soon commenced, and
+the most rigorous honesty prevailed. The objects offered were bear and
+wolf skins, and those of foxes, deers, and polecats, weasels, and
+especially otters, which are found in the islands east of Kamschatka.
+Also clothes made of a kind of hemp, bows, lances, fish-hooks,
+monstrous figures, and a kind of stuff of hair or wool, bags filled
+with red ochre, bits of sculptured wood, trinkets of copper and iron
+shaped like horse-shoes, which they wore hung from the nose.
+
+"Human ears and hands, not yet free from flesh, struck us most among
+the things they offered us. They made us clearly understand that they
+had eaten the portions that were missing, and we indeed perceived that
+these hands and ears had been on the fire."
+
+The English were not long in ascertaining that these natives were as
+habitual robbers as any they had hitherto met with. They were even
+more dangerous, as, possessing iron implements, they could easily cut
+the cords. They combined their thefts with intelligence, and one of
+them amused the sentinel at one end of the boat, whilst another
+snatched the iron from the other end. They sold a quantity of very
+good oil, and a great deal of fish, especially sardines.
+
+When the numerous repairs needed by the ships were made, and the grass
+required for the few goats and sheep remaining on board had been
+shipped, Cook set sail on the 26th of April, 1778.
+
+He gave the name of King George's Sound to the spot where he had
+stayed, although it was called Nootka by the natives.
+
+The vessels had scarcely gained the open sea when a violent tempest
+overtook them, during which the _Resolution_ sprung a leak on the
+starboard side below the water line.
+
+Carried away by the storm, Cook passed the spot selected by
+geographers as the situation of the Strait of Admiral de Fonte, though
+he greatly wished to dispel all doubt on the subject.
+
+The captain therefore continued along the American coast, surveying
+and naming the principal points. During this cruise he had constant
+intercourse with the Indians, and was not slow in noticing that their
+canoes had been replaced by boats, of which only the framework was
+wood, and over which were spread seal-skins.
+
+[Illustration: Prince William's Sound.]
+
+After a stay at Prince William's Sound, where the leak of the
+_Resolution_ was repaired, Cook resumed his voyage, reconnoitred and
+named Elizabeth and Saint Hermogene Capes, Bank's Point, Capes Douglas
+and Bede, Saint Augustine's Mount, the River Cook, Kodiak Island,
+Trinity Island, and the islands called Schumagin by Behring.
+Afterwards he passed Bristol Bay, Round Island, Calm Point, Newenham
+Cape, where Lieutenant Williamson landed, and Anderson Island, so
+called in honour of the naturalist, who died there of disease of the
+chest; later, King Island, and Prince of Wales's Cape, the most
+western extremity of America. Cook then passed the Asiatic coast and
+entered into communication with the Tchouktchis, entered Behring
+Strait on the 11th of April, and next week came in contact with ice.
+
+He tried in vain to survey in various directions. The iceberg
+presented an insuperable barrier. On the 17th of April, 1778, the
+expedition was in latitude 70 degrees 41 minutes. During an entire
+month he coasted the iceberg, in the hope of finding an opening which
+might enable him to proceed to the north, but in vain. It was remarked
+that "the ice was clear and transparent except in the upper part,
+which was slightly porous."
+
+"I supposed," says Cook, "that it was frozen snow, and it appeared to
+me that it must have been formed in the open sea, both because it is
+improbable, or rather impossible, that such enormous masses could
+float down rivers which contain too little water for a boat, and also
+because we perceived no produce of the earth, which we must have done
+if it was so formed."
+
+Up to this date the passage through Behring's Strait had been the
+least used to reach the northern latitudes. Cook's observation is
+valuable, as it proves that beyond this aperture a vast extent of sea
+without land must exist. It may possibly be (this was the view held by
+the lamented Gustave Lambert) that this sea is open. No greater
+distance north has ever been attained since Cook's time, except on the
+Siberian coast--where Plover and Long Islands were discovered, and
+where at this moment, as we write, Professor Nordenskjold is
+exploring.[1]
+
+[Footnote 1: [On the 5th September, 1879, a telegram from Stockholm
+announced that the Swedish Arctic Expedition under Professor
+Nordenskjold had made the North-East Passage from Europe to Japan, and
+that the Swedish exploring vessel, the _Vega_, had arrived at Yokohama
+by way of Behring's Straits.]--Translator.]
+
+After most careful exploration and repeated efforts to reach higher
+latitudes, Cook, seeing that the season was advanced, and encountering
+more icebergs daily, had no choice but to seek winter quarters in a
+more clement country, before continuing his expedition the following
+summer. He therefore retraced his route as far as Ounalaska Island,
+and on the 26th of October steered towards the Sandwich Islands,
+hoping to complete his survey of them during his wintering there.
+
+An island was discovered on the 26th of November. The natives sold a
+quantity of fruits, roots, bread-fruits, potatoes, "taro" and "eddy"
+roots, which they exchanged for nails and iron implements. It was
+Mowee Island, which forms part of the Sandwich Archipelago. Shortly
+afterwards Owhyhee or Hawai was sighted, the summits of which were
+covered with snow.
+
+The captain says:--
+
+"We never met savages so liberal as these in their views. They usually
+sent the different articles they wished to sell to the ships. They
+then came on board themselves, and finished their 'trade' on the
+quarter-deck. The Tahitans, in spite of our constant stays there, have
+not the same confidence in us. I conclude from this that the
+inhabitants of Owhyhee are more accurate and true in their reciprocal
+trade than those of Tahiti, for the latter have no honour among
+themselves, and are thus not inclined to believe in the honour of
+others."
+
+On the 17th of January Cook and Clerke cast anchor in a bay, called by
+the natives Karakakooa. The sails were unbent from the yard, the yards
+and the top-mast struck. The vessels were crowded with visitors and
+surrounded by pirogues, and the shore was covered by a curious
+multitude. Cook had never previously seen so much excitement. Among
+the chiefs who came on board the _Resolution_, a young man named
+Pareea was soon remarked. He said he was "Iakanee," but it was not
+known that was his title of office, or if it suggested a degree of
+relationship or alliance with the king. However, he evidently had
+great authority over the common people. Some presents, opportunely
+given, attached him to the English, and he rendered them more than one
+service.
+
+If Cook on his first visit to Hawai pronounced that the natives were
+little disposed to robbery, he was not of the same opinion this time.
+Their large numbers gave them many facilities for thieving trifles,
+and encouraged them to think that their larceny would not be punished.
+It became evident at last that they were encouraged by their chiefs,
+for several stolen objects were found in the possession of the latter.
+
+Pareea and another chief named Kaneena brought an old man on board,
+whose name was Koah. He was very thin and his body was covered with
+white scurf from immoderate use of "ava." He was a priest. When he was
+presented to Cook, he put a sort of red mantle which he had brought
+upon his shoulders, and gravely delivered a long discourse as he gave
+him a little pig. It was soon proved that it was intended as a form of
+adoration, for all the idols were clothed in similar stuff. The
+English were immensely astonished at the whimsical ceremonies of
+homage presented to Cook. They only understood them later, through the
+researches of the learned missionary Ellis. We shall give a brief
+account of his interesting discovery. It will make the recital of the
+events that followed plainer.
+
+[Illustration: "They gave him a little pig."]
+
+According to tradition, a certain Rono, who lived under one of the
+ancient kings of Hawai, had killed his wife, whom he tenderly loved,
+in a transport of jealousy. The grief and sorrow which followed upon
+his act, drove him mad; he ran about the island, quarrelling with, and
+striking everybody. At last, tired out, but not satiated, with murder,
+he embarked, promising to return one day, upon a floating island,
+bringing cocoa-nuts, pigs, and dogs.
+
+This legend had been embodied in a national song, and became an
+article of faith with the priests, who added Rono to their list of
+deities. Confident in the fulfilment of the prediction, they awaited
+his coming every year, with a patience which nothing could exhaust.
+
+Is not there a strange resemblance between this legend and that
+relating to the Mexican god Quetzalcoatl, who, forced to fly from the
+wrath of a more powerful god, embarked upon a skiff of serpent skin,
+promising those who accompanied him to return at some later time, and
+visit the country with his descendants?
+
+As soon as the English ships appeared, the high priest Koah and his
+son One-La declared that it was Rono himself, fulfilling his
+prediction. From that moment Cook was a divinity for the entire
+population. As he went about, the natives prostrated themselves. The
+priests made him speeches or addressed prayers to him. They would have
+sprinkled him with incense had that been fashionable at Hawai. The
+captain felt that there was something extraordinary in these
+demonstrations, but, unable to understand it, he resigned himself for
+the sake of his crew and for the advancement of science to the
+mysterious circumstances he was unable to unravel.
+
+He was obliged to give himself up to all kinds of ceremonies, which
+appeared, to him at least, ridiculous. Thus he was taken to a morai, a
+solid construction of stone forty roods long and fourteen high. The
+summit was well built and was surrounded by a wooden balustrade, upon
+which were hung the ears of the captives sacrificed to the gods. At
+the opening of the platform were two large wooden figures with
+grinning faces, and bodies draped in red stuff, the heads surmounted
+by a large piece of sculptured wood, the shape of a reversed cone.
+There Koah mounted with Cook upon a sort of table, under which lay a
+rotten pig and a quantity of fruit. Some men brought a living pig in a
+procession, and some scarlet cloth in which it was wrapped. The
+priests then sang some religious hymns, while the assistants were
+devoutly prostrated at the entrance of the morai. After various
+ceremonies, which it would take too long to describe, a pig, cooked in
+the oven, was presented to the captain, with fruits and the roots
+which were used in the preparation of "ava."
+
+"The ava," says Cook, "was then handed round, and when we had tasted
+it, Koah and Pareea divided the flesh of the pig into several pieces,
+which they placed in our mouths."
+
+"I felt no repugnance when Pareea, who is very clean, gave me
+something to eat," says Lieutenant King, "but Cook, to whom Koah
+offered the same attention, could not swallow a morsel, as he thought
+of the putrid pig. The old man, wishing to redouble his politeness,
+tried to give him pieces already chewed, and one can easily imagine
+that the disgust of our captain increased."
+
+After this ceremony Cook was conducted to his boat, by four men
+carrying sticks, who repeated the same words and phrases as at the
+landing, in the midst of a kneeling host of the natives. The same
+ceremonies were observed every time the captain landed. One of the
+priests always walked before him, announcing that Rono had landed, and
+ordering the people to prostrate themselves.
+
+If the English had reason to feel satisfied with the priests, who
+loaded them with attentions and presents, it was otherwise with the
+"carees," or warriors. The latter encouraged the robberies which were
+perpetrated daily, and in other ways exhibited disloyalty. Still, up
+to the 24th of January, 1779, no important event occurred. Upon that
+day the English were surprised to see that none of the pirogues left
+the river to trade with the ships. The arrival of "Terreoboo" had made
+the bay "tabu," and prevented any communication with the strangers.
+Upon the same day, the chief, or rather king, went without ceremony to
+the ships. He had but one pirogue, in which were his wife and children.
+On the 26th, Terreoboo paid a second visit, which was official.
+
+"Cook," says the narrative, "noticing that the prince landed, followed
+him and arrived about the same time. He conducted them to the tent;
+they were scarcely seated when the prince rose, and in a graceful
+manner threw his mantle over the captain's shoulders. He further
+placed a hat of feathers upon his head, and a curious fan in Cook's
+hands, at whose feet he also spread five or six very pretty mantles of
+great value."
+
+Terreoboo and the principal chiefs of his suite asked many questions
+of the English as to the time of their leaving. The captain wished to
+ascertain the opinion the Hawaians had formed of the English; but he
+could only learn that they supposed them to be the natives of a
+country where provisions were scarce, and that they had simply come
+there "to fill their stomachs." This conviction arose from the
+emaciated appearance of some of the sailors, and from the desire to
+ship fresh victuals.
+
+There was no fear, however, of exhausting their provisions, in spite
+of the immense quantity which had been consumed since the English
+arrived. It is very likely that the king wished for time to prepare
+the present he intended to offer the strangers upon their leaving; and,
+accordingly, the day before the one fixed upon, the king begged
+Captains Cook and Clerke to accompany him to his residence. Enormous
+heaps of every kind of vegetable, parcels of stuffs, yellow and red
+feathers, and a herd of pigs were collected together.
+
+All this was a gratuitous gift to the king from his subjects.
+Terreoboo chose about a third of these articles, and gave the rest to
+the two captains--a more valuable present than they had ever received
+either at Tonga or Tahiti.
+
+On the 4th of February the vessels left the bay, but the damage
+received by the _Resolution_ forced her to put in again in a few days.
+The vessels had scarcely cast anchor before the English noticed a
+change in the conduct of the natives. Still all went on peaceably
+until the afternoon of the 13th. Upon that day several chiefs wished
+to prevent the natives from assisting the English in filling their
+casks. A tumult ensued. The natives armed themselves with stones, and
+became threatening.
+
+The officer in command of the detachment was ordered by Cook to draw
+upon the natives, if they persisted in throwing stones, or became
+insolent. Under these circumstances, a pirogue was fired into, and it
+was soon apparent that a robbery had been committed by its crew.
+
+At the same time a still more serious dispute arose. A sloop belonging
+to Pareea was seized by an officer, who took it to the _Discovery_.
+The chief hastened to claim his belongings, and to protest his
+innocence. The discussion grew animated, and Pareea was overthrown by
+a blow from an oar.
+
+The natives, who had hitherto been peaceable observers, armed
+themselves with stones, forced the sailors to retire precipitately,
+and took possession of the pinnace which had brought them. Pareea,
+forgetful of his resentment at this moment, interposed, and restored
+the pinnace to the English, together with several things which had
+been stolen.
+
+"I am afraid the Indians will force me to violent measures," said Cook,
+upon learning what had passed. "We must not allow them to believe that
+they have gained an advantage over us."
+
+The boat of the _Discovery_ was stolen upon the 13th or 14th of
+February. The captain determined to possess himself of the person of
+Terreoboo, or some others of the leading persons, and to keep them as
+hostages until the stolen objects were restored to him.
+
+He therefore landed with a detachment of marines, and pursued his way
+to the king's residence. He was received with the usual marks of
+respect on the road, and perceiving Terreoboo and his two sons, to
+whom he said a few words on the theft of the sloop, he decided to pass
+the day on board the _Resolution_.
+
+The matter took a happy turn, and the two young princes embarked upon
+the pinnace, when one of Terreoboo's wives begged him with tears not
+to go on board. Two other chiefs joined her, and the natives,
+frightened by the hostile preparations they saw, began to crowd round
+the king and captain. The latter hurried to embark, and the prince
+appeared willing to follow him, but the chiefs interposed, and used
+force to prevent his doing so.
+
+Cook, seeing that his project had failed, and that he could only put
+it into execution by bloodshed, gave it up, and walked quietly along
+the shore to regain his boat, when a rumour spread that one of the
+principal chiefs had been killed. The women and children were
+therefore sent away, and all directed their attention to the English.
+
+A native armed with a "pahooa" defied the captain, and as he would not
+cease his threats, Cook discharged his pistol. The native, protected
+by a thick mat, did not feel himself wounded, and so became more
+audacious. Several others advanced, and the captain discharged his gun
+at the nearest and killed him. This was the signal for a general
+attack.
+
+The last that was seen of Cook was his signing to the boats to cease
+firing, and to approach, that his small troop might embark. In vain!
+The captain was struck and fell to the earth.
+
+"The natives," says the narrative, "uttered cries of joy when they saw
+him fall. They at once dragged his body along the shore, and taking
+the poniard one after the other, they all attacked him with ferocious
+blows until he ceased to breathe."
+
+Thus perished this great navigator, assuredly the most illustrious
+produced by England. The boldness of his undertakings, his
+perseverance in carrying them out, and the extent of his knowledge,
+all made him a type of the true sailor of discovery.
+
+[Illustration: Itinerary of the principal voyagers during the 18th
+century, after Cook. _Grave par E. Morieu_. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+What immense service he has rendered to geography! In his first voyage
+he reconnoitred the Society Islands, proved that New Zealand is formed
+of two islands, explored the strait that separates them, and surveyed
+its coast, and lastly he visited the entire eastern coast of New
+Holland.
+
+In his second voyage he proved the chimerical character of the
+long-talked-of Antarctic continent, the dream of stay-at-home
+geographers. He discovered New Caledonia, Southern Georgia, the
+Sandwich Islands, and penetrated farther into the southern hemisphere
+than any one had done before him.
+
+In his third expedition he discovered the Hawaian archipelago, and
+surveyed the eastern coast of America, to the forty-third degree, that
+is to say, an extent of 3500 miles. He passed through Behring Straits,
+and ventured into the Arctic Sea, which was the horror of navigators,
+until the icebergs opposed an impenetrable barrier to his progress.
+
+It is needless to praise his qualities as a seaman; his hydrographical
+works remain, but above all his careful treatment of his crews
+deserves to be remembered. To it was due their ability to bear the
+long and trying voyages, which he made with so little loss of life.
+
+After this fatal day the English folded their tents and returned on
+board. Their offers for the recovery of the body of their unfortunate
+captain were in vain. In their anger they were about to have recourse
+to arms, when two priests, friends of Lieutenant King, brought a piece
+of human flesh at the instance of the other chiefs, which weighed from
+nine to ten pounds. It was all, they said, that remained of Rono's
+body, which had been burnt according to custom. This sight of course
+made the English still more anxious for reprisals, and the natives on
+their side had to avenge the death of five chiefs and a score of men.
+Every time the English landed at their watering place they found a
+furious crowd armed with stones and sticks. In order to make an
+example, Captain Clerke, who had taken the command of the expedition,
+set fire to the abodes of the priests, and massacred those who opposed
+them.
+
+On the 19th of February, however, an interview was arranged, and the
+remains of Cook, his hands, recognizable by a large scar, his head,
+stripped of flesh, and various other debris, were made over to the
+English, who three days later paid them the last honours.
+
+After that, barter was resumed as if nothing had happened, and no
+other incident occurred during the remainder of the stay in the
+Sandwich Islands.
+
+Captain Clerke had relinquished the command of the _Discovery_ to
+Lieutenant Gore, and hoisted his flag upon the _Resolution_. After
+completing the survey of the Hawaian Islands, he set sail for the
+north, touched at Kamschatka, where the Russians made him heartily
+welcome, passed through Behring Strait, and advanced as far as
+latitude 69 degrees 50 minutes north, where his further progress was
+barred by icebergs.
+
+On the 22nd of April, 1779, Captain Clerke died of pulmonary phthisis,
+aged thirty-eight.
+
+Captain Gore then assumed the command in chief, put in again at
+Kamschatka, again at Canton, and at the Cape of Good Hope, and
+anchored in the Thames on the 1st of October, 1780, after more than
+four years' absence.
+
+The death of Captain Cook caused a general mourning throughout England.
+The Royal Society of London, of which he was a member, struck a medal
+in his honour, the cost of which was covered by public subscription,
+to which persons of the highest rank subscribed.
+
+The Admiralty petitioned the king to provide for the family of the
+deceased captain. The king granted a pension of 200_l_. to his widow,
+and 25_l_. to each of his three sons. The charts and drawings relating
+to his last voyage were engraved at the expense of the government, and
+the proceeds of their sale divided among Cook's family, and the heirs
+of Captain Clerke and Captain King.
+
+Although the family of the great navigator is extinct, a proof of the
+esteem in which his memory is held was given in the solemn meeting of
+the French Geographical Society on the 4th of February, 1879.
+
+A large number assembled to celebrate the centenary of Cook's death.
+Amongst them were many representatives of the Australian colonies,
+which are now so flourishing, and of the Hawaian Archipelago, where he
+met his death. A quantity of relics belonging to the great navigator,
+his charts, Webber's magnificent water-colours, and the instruments
+and weapons of the Oceanic islanders decorated the walls.
+
+This touching homage, after the lapse of a hundred years, was accorded
+by a people whose king had bidden them not to thwart Cook's scientific
+and civilizing mission, and was well calculated to awake an echo in
+England, and to draw yet closer the bonds of that good fellowship
+which exists between England and France.
+
+
+END OF THE FIRST PART.
+
+
+
+
+PART II.
+
+
+[_Frontispiece of 2nd Part._: Death of Captain Cook.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+FRENCH NAVIGATORS.
+
+
+I.
+
+Discoveries made by Bouvet de Lozier in the Southern Seas--Surville--
+The land of the Arsacides--Incident during the stay at Port Praslin--
+Arrival upon the coast of New Zealand--Death of Surville--Marion's
+discoveries in the Antarctic Ocean--He is murdered at New Zealand--
+Kerguelen in Iceland and the Antarctic regions--The contest between
+the watches--Fleurien and Verdun de la Crenne.
+
+
+In the earlier half of the eighteenth century, a discovery had been
+made which was destined to exercise a favourable influence upon the
+progress of geographical science. Jean Baptiste Charles Bouvet de
+Lozier, a captain of one of the East India Company's ships, was so
+struck by the immensity of the space surrounding the Southern Pole,
+known to geographers as the _Terra australis incognita_, that he
+begged for the privilege of prosecuting discoveries in these unknown
+regions. His importunities were long disregarded, but at length, in
+1738, the Company consented, in the hope of opening new facilities for
+trade.
+
+Two small frigates, the _Aigle_ and the _Marie_, fully equipped, left
+Brest upon the 19th of July, 1738, under command of Bouvet de Lozier.
+After a stay of a month at St. Catherine's Island, upon the coast of
+Brazil, they put to sea again upon the 13th of November, and steered
+for the south-east.
+
+On the 26th, heavy fog set in, so that the vessels could only keep in
+company by constant firing, and were obliged to tack about continually,
+at the risk of running foul of each other. Upon the 5th of December,
+although it would have appeared impossible, the fog increased in
+density to such an extent that those on board the _Aigle_ could hear
+the movement of the _Marie_, though they could not see her. The sea
+was covered with kelp, and sea-gulls, never found at a distance from
+land, were shortly afterwards seen.
+
+"Upon the 15th of December," says M. Favre, in his Memoir the Bouvets,
+in 48 degrees 50 minutes S. lat. (Paris is in N. lat. 48 degrees 50
+minutes) and in 7 degrees W. long. (the meridian of Teneriffe), an
+enormous iceberg was perceived towards five or six in the morning;
+shortly afterwards many others were seen, surrounded by ice-floes of
+various sizes.
+
+The _Marie_, signalling danger, tacked about, but Bouvet, annoyed by
+this action, which was likely to affect the confidence of the crews,
+crowded sail on the _Aigle_, and, by passing the _Marie_, showed his
+determination to maintain his southern course. To reassure his men, he
+asserted that it was considered a lucky omen to meet with ice, as it
+was a certain indication of land at hand.
+
+The course was continued to the south, and Bouvet's perseverance was
+soon rewarded by the appearance of land, to which he gave the name of
+Cape Circumcision. It was steep, covered with snow, and so shut in by
+large icebergs, that it was impossible to approach to within seven or
+eight leagues. It appeared to measure from four to five leagues from
+north to south.
+
+"This land was supposed," says M. Favre, judging from Pietergos'
+charts, which were used by Bouvet, "to be situated in 54 degrees S.
+lat. and 26 degrees and 27 degrees east of the meridian of Teneriffe,
+or between 5 degrees 30 minutes and 6 degrees 3 minutes east of that
+of Paris."
+
+Bouvet would much have liked to make closer acquaintance with this
+region, but the fogs and contrary winds prevented his reaching it, and
+he was obliged to satisfy himself with observing it from a distance.
+
+"Upon the 3rd of January, 1739," says Bouvet, in his report to the
+Company, "we made up for what we had lost during the preceding days,
+and about four in the afternoon, the fog clearing somewhat, we
+distinctly saw land. The coast, broken throughout its entire length,
+formed several bays. The summits of the mountains were covered with
+snow; the sides appeared wooded."
+
+After several fruitless attempts to near the coast, Bouvet was forced
+to relinquish the idea. His sailors were worn out with fatigue,
+discouraged, and enfeebled by scurvy. The _Marie_ was sent to the Isle
+of France, and the _Aigle_ directed her course to the Cape of Good
+Hope, which she reached upon the 28th of February.
+
+"We had penetrated," says Bouvet, in the report already cited, "twelve
+or fifteen hundred leagues into an unknown sea. For seventy days we
+had encountered almost continuous fog. We had been for forty days in
+the midst of ice, and we had had snow and hail almost every day.
+Several times our decks and rigging were covered with them. Our
+shrouds and sails were frozen. On the 10th of January, it was
+impossible to work our fore-topsail. The cold was severe, for men
+accustomed to a warm climate, and who were lightly clad. Many had
+chilblains on the hands and feet. Still they were forced constantly to
+tack about, bring to, get under weigh, and take soundings at least
+once a day. One of the sailors belonging to the _Aigle_, having been
+sent to loosen the fore-topsail, became frozen in the fore-top. He had
+to be lowered by a whip, and circulation was with difficulty restored.
+I have seen others with tears gushing from their eyes as they handled
+the sounding-line. And all this was in the fine season, and I
+ameliorated their condition by every means in my power."
+
+We can readily understand that such small results did not tempt the
+East India Company to continue their efforts in these latitudes. If
+they were productive of no good, they cost heavily in the loss of men
+and ships they entailed. Still Bouvet's discovery was a first blow to
+the existing belief in an Antarctic continent. He gave the start, and
+various navigators, amongst them two Frenchmen, followed it up.
+
+In our short record of this expedition, which is scarcely known, we
+have testified to an appreciation of our countryman, who was the
+pioneer of Antarctic navigation, and who deserves the credit of
+furnishing an example to the great English explorer, James Cook.
+
+Another of the East India Company's captains, who had distinguished
+himself in various battles against the English, Jean Francois Marie de
+Surville, was destined to make important discoveries in Oceania some
+thirty years later, and to re-discover, almost simultaneously with
+Cook, the lands first seen by Tasman, and which he called Staten
+Island. The following is an account of the circumstances.
+
+Messrs. Law and Chevalier, governors in French India, determined to
+send a vessel at their own risk to trade in the southern seas. They
+admitted Surville to their schemes, and sent him to France to obtain
+the needful authority from the Company, and to superintend the
+equipment of the vessel.
+
+The _Saint-Jean Baptiste_ was made ready for sea at Nantes, and
+provisioned for three years, with every requisite for a distant
+expedition. Surville then reached India, where Law provided him with
+twenty-four native soldiers.
+
+Leaving Angley Bay on the 3rd of March, 1769, the _Saint-Jean
+Baptiste_ put in successively at Masulipatam, Yanaon, and Pondicherry,
+where her equipment was completed.
+
+Surville left the last-named port on the 2nd of June, and steered his
+course for the Philippines. On the 20th of August, he cast anchor off
+the Bashees, or Baschy Islands. Dampier had so named them after an
+intoxicating drink, which the natives compounded from the juice of the
+sugar-cane, into which they infused a certain black seed.
+
+Several of Dampier's crew had formerly deserted in these islands; they
+had received from the natives a field, agricultural instruments, and
+wives. The recollection of this fact incited three of the sailors
+belonging to the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_ to follow their example. But
+Surville was not the man to allow his crew to melt away in such a
+manner. He seized twenty-six Indians, and signified his intention of
+keeping them as hostages until his men were brought back to him.
+
+"Among the Indians thus seized," says Crozet, in his narrative of
+Surville's voyage, "there were several courageous enough to throw
+themselves into the sea, and, much to the surprise of the crew, they
+had sufficient courage and skill to swim to one of their pirogues,
+which was far enough from the vessel to be secure from danger."
+
+Pains were taken to make the savages understand that they had been
+treated in this way in order to make their comrades bring back the
+three deserters. They made signs that they understood, and were then
+released, with the exception of six, who had been taken on shore. The
+haste with which they left the ship, and flung themselves into their
+pirogues, augured badly for their return. Much surprise was therefore
+felt when in a short time they were seen returning with joyful
+acclamations. Doubt was no longer possible, they could only be
+bringing the deserters back to the commander. They came on board, and
+proceeded to deposit on deck--what?--three magnificent pigs, tied and
+bound. Surville did not appreciate, and he objurgated the natives so
+fiercely, that they jumped into their pirogues, and disappeared.
+Twenty-four hours later the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_ left the Bashees,
+taking three captive Indians to replace the deserters.
+
+[Illustration: Map of Surville's discoveries, after Fleurieu.]
+
+Upon the 7th of October, after a lengthened route to the south-east,
+land, to which the name of "Premiere Vue" was given, was sighted in 6
+degrees 56 minutes S. lat., and 157 degrees 30 minutes long. east of
+Paris.
+
+The explorers coasted along it until the 13th October, upon which day
+an excellent port was discovered, sheltered from every wind, and
+formed by a number of small islands. M. de Surville cast anchor and
+named it Port Praslin. It is situated in 7 degrees 25 minutes S. lat.
+and 151 degrees 55 minutes E. long. reckoning from the Paris meridian.
+
+Upon entering this port, the French saw several Indians, armed with
+spears, and carrying a sort of shield. The _Saint-Jean Baptiste_ was
+very soon surrounded by pirogues, manned by a crowd of Indians, who
+were profuse in menacing gestures. However, they were pacified at last.
+About thirty of the boldest clambered on to the deck, and examined
+everything they saw with close attention. It soon became needful to
+check their advances, as there were many sick among the crew, and it
+was unwise to allow too many natives on board.
+
+[Illustration: Pirogues of the Admiralty Islands. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+In spite of the welcome they received, the natives were still doubtful,
+and their looks expressed distrust. The slightest movement on board
+the vessel was sufficient to make them jump into their pirogues, or
+the sea. One only showed a little more confidence, and Surville gave
+him several presents. The Indian acknowledged the attention, by saying
+he could point out a spot where good water was to be had.
+
+The captain gave orders to arm the boats, and entrusted the command to
+his lieutenant Labbe.
+
+"The savages appeared impatient for the departure of the boats from
+the ship," says Fleurien, in his "Decouvertes des Francais," "and they
+were no sooner lowered than they were followed by all the pirogues.
+One of these appeared to lead the others; in it was the Indian who had
+offered his services to Surville. At the back of the pirogue, a man
+stood erect, holding in his hands a bunch of herbs, raising them above
+his head, with a rhythmical movement. In the centre of the same
+pirogue stood a young man, resting upon a spear, who gravely watched
+all that went on. Red flowers were in his ears, and passed through the
+cartilage of his nose, and his hair was powdered with white lime."
+
+Certain trifling symptoms aroused the suspicions of the French, who
+soon found themselves in a cul-de-sac, where the natives persisted in
+declaring that fresh water was to be found. Labbe, in spite of all the
+persuasions of the natives, did not wish to imperil his boats in two
+or three feet of water, with a muddy bottom, and therefore allowed
+only a corporal and four soldiers to disembark. They soon returned,
+asserting that they had seen on all sides nothing but marsh, in which
+the men would sink to the waist.
+
+It was evident that the natives had meditated treason. Labbe took good
+care not to let them suspect that he had detected their design, and
+asked them to point out a spring.
+
+The natives then led the boats some three leagues away, to a spot from
+whence it was impossible to see the ship. The corporal was again sent
+forward with some men, but he found only a very poor spring, barely
+affording sufficient water to slake the thirst of his party. During
+his absence, the natives did all in their power to induce Labbe to
+land, pointing out to him the abundant cocoa-nut and other fruit trees,
+and even attempting to possess themselves of the boat-hook.
+
+"More than two hundred and fifty of these natives," says the narrative,
+"armed with spears, from seven to eight feet long, with swords, or
+wooden clubs, arrows and stones, and some carrying shields, were
+assembled on the shore, observing the movements of the boats. When the
+detachment, consisting of five men, proceeded to re-embark, the
+natives fell upon them, wounding one soldier with a blow from a club,
+the corporal with a spear, and many others in different ways. M. Labbe
+himself was hit by two arrows in the thigh, and on the leg by a stone.
+The traitors were fired upon. The first volley so astonished them that
+they remained motionless. It was the more fatal, as, being fired only
+three or five fathoms from the boats, every shot took effect. The
+amazement of the natives gave the opportunity for a second discharge,
+which completely routed them, the death of their chief greatly
+hastening their flight. M. Labbe, who had recognized him, apart from
+the others, with his hands raised to heaven, striking his breast, and
+encouraging the assailants by his voice, aimed at him and shot him
+dead. The natives carried off their wounded, leaving thirty or forty
+dead upon the field of battle. It was then possible to land, and,
+picking up such of the enemy's weapons as were scattered about, the
+victors contented themselves with towing away one of their pirogues
+and destroying the others."
+
+[Illustration: "Picking up the enemies' weapons."]
+
+Surville was extremely anxious to capture an Indian, who might serve
+him as a guide, and who, convinced of the superiority of European
+weapons, might warn his countrymen against opposing the French. With
+this view, he hit upon a singular expedient. He ordered two negro
+sailors to be placed on board the pirogue he had seized, had their
+heads powdered, and disguised them so cleverly that the natives were
+likely to be deceived.
+
+In fact, a pirogue soon after approaching the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_,
+the men who were in it, seeing what they took to be two of their own
+people trafficking with the strangers, drew nearer. So soon as the
+French imagined they were at a fair distance, they launched two boats
+in pursuit. The natives gained ground; it was then decided to fire, in
+order to stop them. One of the natives was killed at once, and, his
+boat capsizing, he fell into the sea, and the other, who was only
+fourteen or fifteen years of age, endeavoured to reach the shore by
+swimming.
+
+"He defended himself most courageously," says the narrative,
+"sometimes making believe to bite himself, but really biting those who
+held him. His hands and feet were tied, and he was taken on board. He
+counterfeited death for an hour, but when he was made to sit up, and
+he fell back on deck, he took good care to fall on his shoulders
+instead of his head. When he was tired of playing this game he opened
+his eyes, and, seeing that the crew were eating, he asked for a
+biscuit, ate it with a good appetite, and made many expressive signs.
+He was bound securely, so that he might not throw himself overboard."
+
+During the night, it was necessary to resort to firing, to disperse
+the pirogues, which approached with a view to surprising the ship.
+Next day, the native was taken in a boat to a small islet, since
+called Aiguade Island. Scarcely had he landed when it was perceived
+that he had almost cut through the ropes with a sharp shell.
+
+The young savage was taken by a different route to the shore; when he
+perceived that he was to re-embark, he rolled upon the ground,
+shrieking, and biting the sand in his fury.
+
+The sailors succeeded at last in finding an abundant spring, and
+plenty of wood. One of the trees they cut appeared to have dyeing
+properties, for it tinged the sea with red. Some of the bark was
+boiled, and pieces of cotton steeped in the decoction turned deep red.
+
+Welcome refreshment was afforded to the crew by the palm cabbages,
+good oysters, and various shell-fish which abounded. There were indeed
+many sufferers from scurvy on board the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_.
+Surville had looked forward to this stay to cure them, but the rain,
+which fell ceaselessly for six days, aggravated their complaint to
+such a degree that three of them died before they left the anchorage.
+
+This port was named Praslin, and the large island or archipelago, to
+which it belonged, Arsacides, in reference to the deceitful nature of
+its inhabitants.
+
+"Port Praslin," says Fleurien, "would be one of the finest ports in
+the world, if the bottom were better. It is of circular shape,
+reckoning all the islands discovered from the spot where the
+_Saint-Jean Baptiste_ cast anchor. The ferocity of the people
+inhabiting the islands of Port Praslin was such that it was impossible
+to penetrate into the interior, and it was only possible to examine
+the sea-coast. We perceived no cultivated ground, either in the trip
+we made to the further end of the port, nor upon Aiguade Island, which
+was explored throughout."
+
+Such are the superficial particulars which Surville and his crew were
+able to collect. Fortunately, they were supplemented by those
+furnished by the captive native, whose name was Lova-Salega, and who
+possessed a great faculty for learning languages.
+
+According to his account, the island produced palms, cocoa-nut trees,
+various almond trees, wild coffee, the ebony tree, the tacamahac, as
+well as numerous resinous or gum trees, the banana, sugar-cane, yams,
+aniseed, and lastly a plant called "Binao," which is used by the
+natives as bread. Cockatoos, wood pigeons, lories, and black-birds,
+somewhat larger than those of Europe, abounded in the woods. In the
+marshes the curlew, sea lark, a species of snipe, and ducks were to be
+found. The only quadrupeds the country produced were goats and
+half-wild pigs.
+
+"The natives of Port Praslin," says Fleurien, quoting from the
+manuscripts in his possession, "are of ordinary height, but strong and
+muscular. They do not appear to be all of one origin (a valuable
+remark), for some are perfectly black, whilst others are
+copper-coloured. The former have woolly hair, which is very soft to
+the touch, their foreheads are small, their eyes slightly sunken,
+whilst the lower part of their face is pointed, and adorned with a
+small beard; their expression is fierce. Some of the copper-coloured
+natives have smooth hair. They usually cut it round the head as high
+as the ear. A few only retain a little, shaped like a cap, on the top
+of the head, shaving off the remainder with a sharp stone, and leaving
+only a circular fringe about an inch deep at the bottom. Their hair
+and eyebrows are powdered with lime, which gives them a yellowish hue.
+
+"Both men and women are stark naked; but it must be allowed that their
+nudity is not so startling as would be that of an European without
+clothes, for the faces, arms, and generally every part of their bodies
+are tattooed. Sometimes the taste of these designs is really wonderful.
+They pierce their ears and the cartilage of their nose, and the
+nostrils often hang down, from the weight of the ornaments, to the
+upper lip."
+
+The commonest ornament worn by the natives of Port Praslin is a
+necklace made of men's teeth. It was at once concluded that they were
+cannibals, although the same customs had been met with among people
+who were not. Lova's confused replies, and the half-broiled head of a
+man, found by Bougainville in a pirogue in Choiseul Island, placed the
+existence of this barbarous practice beyond the possibility of doubt.
+
+On the 21st of October, after nine days' rest, the _Saint-Jean
+Baptiste_ left Port Praslin.
+
+On the next and ensuing days, lofty and mountainous land was
+constantly in sight. Upon the 2nd of November Surville descried an
+island, which received the name of Contrarietes, from the contrary
+winds which for three days checked the progress of the ship.
+
+This island presented a delightful appearance. It was well cultivated,
+and, judging from the number of pirogues, which constantly surrounded
+the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_, it must have been well populated.
+
+The natives could scarcely be persuaded to go on board. At last a
+chief sprang on deck. His first act was to possess himself of a
+sailor's clothes. He next visited the poop and took the white flag,
+which he wished to appropriate. It was only after some difficulty that
+he was dissuaded from the attempt. Lastly, he climbed up the mizen
+mast, and from that elevated position observed all parts of the vessel.
+Then, coming down, he began to jump about, and, addressing himself to
+those he had left in the canoes, he invited them, by words and
+gestures, to join him on deck.
+
+About a dozen ventured. They resembled the natives of Port Praslin,
+but they spoke a different language, and could not make themselves
+understood by Lova-Salega. Their stay on board did not last long, for
+one of them having possessed himself of a bottle and thrown it into
+the sea, the captain showed some annoyance, which induced them to
+return to their pirogues.
+
+The land appeared so inviting, and the sufferers from scurvy were in
+such pressing need of green provisions, that Surville determined to
+send a boat to test the disposition of the natives.
+
+It had no sooner left the vessel than it was surrounded by pirogues,
+manned by a number of warriors. Hostilities were imminent, but a few
+shots dispersed the assailants. During the night a flotilla advanced
+towards the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_, and Surville, from motives of
+humanity, did not wait until the natives were close, but at once fired
+several pieces charged with grape shot, which put them to flight.
+
+It was useless to think of landing, and Surville regained the open sea.
+He discovered successively the Three Sisters Island, and Gulf and
+Deliverance Islands, the last of the group.
+
+The archipelago, just explored by Surville, was no other than that of
+the Solomon Islands, which, as we have mentioned, was discovered in
+the first instance by Mendana. That skilful navigator had traced and
+surveyed a hundred and forty leagues, besides drawing a series of
+fourteen very curious views of this sea coast.
+
+If Surville's crew were not to be decimated by death, it was necessary
+at all risks to reach land, where he might disembark the sick, and
+procure fresh provisions for them.
+
+He resolved to steer for New Zealand, which had not been visited since
+the time of Tasman.
+
+On the 12th of December, 1769, Surville descried land in 35 degrees 37
+minutes S. lat., and five days later he cast anchor in a bay which he
+called Lauriston. At the extremity was a creek which received the name
+of Chevalier. Cook had been in search of this land since the beginning
+of October, and was fated to pass by Lauriston Bay a few days later
+without observing the French vessel.
+
+Whilst anchored in Chevalier Creek, Surville was overtaken by a
+frightful tempest, which brought him within an ace of destruction, but
+his sailors had such confidence in his nautical ability that they felt
+no anxiety, and obeyed his orders with a _sang froid_ of which,
+unfortunately, the Maoris were the sole spectators.
+
+The sloop which was conveying the sick to land had no time to reach
+the shore, before the storm broke in all its fury, and she was driven
+into Refuge Creek. The sailors and invalids were cordially welcomed by
+a chief called Naginoui, who received them into his cabin, and
+bestowed upon them all the green provisions which he could procure
+during their stay.
+
+One of the boats which was towed behind the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_ was
+carried away by the waves. Surville saw it stranded in Refuge Creek.
+He sent in search of it, but only the rudder was found. The natives
+had carried it off. The river was searched in vain; there was no trace
+of the boat. Surville would not allow this theft to go unpunished. He
+made signs to some Indians who were near their pirogues to approach
+him. One of them ran to him at once, and was immediately seized and
+carried on board. The others fled.
+
+"He seized one pirogue," says Crozet, "and burnt the other; set fire
+to the huts and returned to the ship. The Indian who was taken was
+recognized by the surgeon as the chief who had so generously assisted
+them during the storm. It was the unfortunate Naginoui, who, after the
+services he had rendered the whites, could hardly have anticipated
+such treatment at their hands, when he obeyed Surville's signal."
+
+He died on the 24th of March, 1770, near the island of Juan Fernandez.
+
+We will pass over the observations made by the French navigator upon
+the natives, and the productions of New Zealand, as they are merely a
+repetition of those of Captain Cook.
+
+Surville, convinced that he could not obtain the provisions he needed,
+put to sea a few days later, and steered between the parallels of 27
+degrees and 28 degrees S. lat.; but the ravages of the scurvy, which
+increased daily, decided him on steering for the coast of Peru without
+delay.
+
+He sighted it on the 5th of April, 1770, and three days later cast
+anchor off the Chilica Bar at the entrance of Callao.
+
+In his haste to reach the land, and seek help for his sick, Surville
+was unwilling to allow any one else to visit the governor.
+Unfortunately his boat was capsized by the waves that break over the
+bar, and only one of the crew was saved. Surville and all the rest
+were drowned.
+
+Thus miserably perished this great navigator, too early for the
+services he might have rendered to his country and to science. As for
+the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_, she was detained "for three years" before
+Lima by the interminable delays of the Spanish customs. Labbe assumed
+the command, and took her back to Lorient on the 23rd of August, 1773.
+
+As we have already related, M. de Bougainville had taken a Tahitan
+named Aoutourou to Europe. When this native expressed a desire to
+return to his native land, the French administration had sent him to
+Mauritius, with orders to the governor of that colony to facilitate
+his return to Tahiti.
+
+A naval officer, Marion Dufresne, availed himself of this opportunity,
+and offered Poivre, the Governor of Mauritius and Bourbon, to send the
+young Aoutourou to Tahiti at his own expense and in a vessel belonging
+to him. He only required that a vessel belonging to the state might be
+assigned to him, and a small sum of money advanced to assist him in
+the preparations for the expedition.
+
+Nicholas Thomas Marion Dufresne was born at St. Malo on the 22nd of
+December, 1729, and had entered the naval service very young. On the
+16th of October, 1746, he was made lieutenant of a frigate, and at the
+time of his offer was still only captain of a fire ship. Still he had
+served everywhere with distinction, and nowhere more successfully than
+in the Indian Seas.
+
+The mission for which he offered himself was merely a pretext for a
+voyage of discovery in the Southern Seas.
+
+Poivre, an intelligent governor and a friend to progress, approved of
+Dufresne's projects, and gave him detailed instructions for the
+enterprise he was about to undertake in the Southern Hemisphere. At
+this time Cook had not yet proved the non-existence of an Antarctic
+Continent.
+
+Poivre would dearly have liked to have discovered the northern portion
+of the lands he imagined to lie near the French colonies, and where he
+hoped to meet with a more temperate climate. He calculated upon
+finding timber for masts, and many other necessaries there, such as
+provisions, which he was now obliged to obtain at heavy cost from the
+metropolis. Moreover, there might be a safe port, where vessels could
+find shelter from the storms which almost periodically ravaged the
+islands of Mauritius and Bourbon.
+
+The government had just sent a ship's lieutenant, M. Kerguelen, to
+make discoveries in these unknown seas. Marion's expedition, which was
+to try a different route, could not fail to aid in the solution of the
+problem.
+
+On the 18th of October, 1771, the _Mascarin_, commanded by Marion, and
+the _Marquis de Castries_, under the Chevalier Du Clesmeur, midshipman,
+set sail. They put in first at Bourbon Island. There they took
+Aoutourou on board. He was unfortunately infected with small-pox,
+which he had caught in the Mauritius; and the illness soon declared
+itself, so that it was necessary to leave Bourbon lest he should
+communicate it to the inhabitants. The two vessels then made for Port
+Dauphin, on the coast of Madagascar, in order to allow the malady to
+run its course, before proceeding to the Cape, where they were to
+complete provisioning. Young Aoutourou soon died of the disease.
+
+Under these circumstances, was it necessary to return to Mauritius,
+disarm the ships, and give up the expedition? Marion thought not. With
+greater freedom of action, he determined to make himself famous by a
+new voyage, and he inspired his companions with enthusiasm like his
+own.
+
+He soon reached the Cape of Good Hope, where he completed in a few
+days the provisioning necessary for an eighteen months' voyage.
+
+A southerly route was chosen towards the land discovered in 1739 by
+Bouvet de Lozier, and which was to be looked for east of the meridian
+of Madagascar.
+
+Nothing remarkable occurred from the 28th of December, 1771, the day
+upon which the vessels had left the Cape, until the 11th of January.
+It was then discovered, by taking the longitude 20 degrees 43 minutes
+east of the Paris meridian, that they were in the parallel (40 degrees
+to 41 degrees south) of the islands named in Van Keulen's chart as
+Dina and Marvezen, and not marked at all upon French maps.
+
+Although the presence of land-birds induced Marion to suppose that he
+was not far from the islands, he left these latitudes on the 9th of
+January, convinced that his search for the southern continent ought to
+occupy his entire attention. The 11th of January found him in 45
+degrees 43 minutes S. lat., and, although it was summer in these
+regions, the cold was severe, and snow fell without ceasing. Two days
+later, in a dense fog, which was succeeded by rain, Marion discerned
+land which extended a distance of five leagues from the W.S.W. to the
+E.N.E. The soundings gave a depth of eighty fathoms with a bottom of
+coarse sand mixed with coral. This land stretched away till it could
+be seen behind the vessels, that is to say, over a distance of six to
+seven leagues. It appeared to be very lofty and mountainous. It
+received the name of Hope, marking Marion's great desire to reach the
+southern continent. Four years later Cook called it Prince Edward's
+Island.
+
+To the north lay another territory.
+
+Crozet, editor of Marion's voyage, says,--
+
+"I noticed, in coasting along this island, that to the N.E. there
+existed a creek, opposite to what appeared to be a large cavern. All
+around this cavern he remarked a number of large white spots, which
+looked like a flock of sheep. Had time allowed, he might have found
+anchorage opposite the creek. I fancied I saw a cascade issuing from
+the mountains. In rounding the island we discovered three islets
+detached from it, two of them situated in the large bay formed by the
+coast, and the third on its northern extremity. The island itself was
+about seven or eight leagues in circumference, without verdure, and
+apparently barren. The coast was healthy and safe. M. Marion named it
+Cavern Island.
+
+"These two southern territories are situated in 45 degrees 45 minutes
+S. lat. by 34 degrees 31 minutes east of the Paris meridian, half a
+degree east of the route pursued by Bouvet. Next day, about six
+leagues of the coast of the land of Hope was made out. It looked
+fertile. The mountains were lofty and covered with snow. The
+navigators were about to look for anchorage, when, during the sounding
+operations, the two ships ran foul of each other and were both damaged.
+Three days were occupied in repairs. The weather, which had hitherto
+been fine, broke up, and, the wind becoming violent, it was necessary
+to continue the course following the forty-sixth parallel. New lands
+were discovered on the 24th of January.
+
+"At first," says Crozet, "they appeared formed of two islands; I took
+a sketch at a distance of eight leagues, and shortly afterwards we
+took them for two capes, imagining we could see in the far distance a
+stretch of land between them. They are situated in 40 degrees 5
+minutes S. lat. and about 42 degrees E. long. reckoning from the
+meridian of Paris. M. Marion named them Les Iles Froides, or the Cold
+Islands.
+
+"Although little progress was made during the night, the islands were
+invisible next morning. Upon this day the _Castries_ signalled land,
+which stretched some ten or twelve leagues E.S.E.; but a dense fog,
+lasting no less than twelve hours, continued rain, and cold, which was
+severe and trying to lightly-clad men, made any approach nearer than
+six or seven leagues impossible.
+
+"This coast was seen again upon the 24th, as well as new land, which
+received the name of the Arid Island, and is now known as Crozet
+Island. Marion was at length able to lower a boat, and ordered Crozet
+to take possession of the larger of the two islands in the name of the
+king. It is situated in 46 degrees 30 minutes S. lat., and 43 degrees
+E. long., reckoning from the Paris meridian. M. Marion called this
+island La Prise de Possession (it is now known as Marion Island). This
+was the sixth island discovered by us in these southern waters. From a
+height I discerned snow in many of the valleys. The land appeared
+barren, and covered with very small grass. I found neither tree nor
+bush in the island. Exposed to the continual ravages of the stormy
+west winds which prevailed the entire year in these latitudes, it
+appeared uninhabitable. I found nothing there but seals, penguins,
+sea-gulls, Mother Carey's chickens, and every variety of aquatic birds,
+usually met with by navigators in the open sea, when passing the Cape
+of Good Hope. These creatures, never having seen a man, were not wild,
+and allowed us to take them in the hand. The female birds sat
+tranquilly upon their eggs, others fed their young, whilst the seals
+continued their gambols in our presence, without appearing in the
+least alarmed."
+
+Marion continued to steer between 46 degrees to 47 degrees lat. in the
+midst of a fog so dense that it was impossible to see from one end of
+the deck to the other, and without constant firing the ships must have
+parted company. Upon the 2nd of February the two ships were in 47
+degrees 22 minutes E. long., that is to say within 1 degree 10 minutes
+of the lands discovered upon the 13th of the same month by the king's
+vessels _La Fortune_ and _Le Gros Ventre_, commanded by MM. de
+Kerguelen and Saint Allouarn. Doubtless, but for the accident to the
+_Castries_, Marion would have fallen in with them.
+
+Having reached 90 degrees east of the Paris meridian, Marion changed
+his route, and directed his course to Van Diemen's Land. No incident
+occurred during the cruise, and the two vessels cast anchor in
+Frederick Henry Bay.
+
+Boats were at once lowered, and a strong detachment made its way to
+the shore, where some thirty natives were found; and the country,
+judging from the fires and smoke, must have been well populated.
+
+"The natives of the country," says Crozet, "came forward willingly.
+They picked up wood and formed a sort of pile. They then presented the
+new comers with pieces of dried wood which they had lighted; and
+appeared to invite them to set fire to the pile. No one knew what the
+ceremony might mean, and it was accordingly tried. The natives did not
+appear surprised. They remained about us, without making any
+demonstration either of hostility or friendship, and their wives and
+children were with them. Both men and women were of ordinary height,
+black in colour, with woolly hair, and all were naked. Some of the
+women carried their children tied on to their backs with rushes. All
+the men were armed with pointed sticks and stones, which appeared to
+us to be sharp, like hatchets.
+
+"We attempted to win them over by small presents. They disdainfully
+rejected all that we offered, even iron, looking-glasses,
+handkerchiefs, and pieces of cloth. Fowls and ducks which had been
+brought from the ship were shown to them; as evidence that we wished
+to trade. They took them, looked at them as if they had never seen
+such things before, and threw them aside with an angry air."
+
+[Illustration: "A lighted brand was also presented to them."]
+
+An hour had been spent in the attempt to gain the good-will of the
+savages, when Marion and Du Clesmeur landed. A lighted brand was also
+presented to them, and fully persuaded that it was a peaceful ceremony,
+they did not hesitate to light the pile which was prepared. They were
+mistaken, for the natives immediately retired and flung a volley of
+stones, which wounded the two captains. They retaliated by a few shots,
+and the whole party re-embarked.
+
+After another attempt at landing, which the natives opposed with great
+bravery, it was necessary to repulse them by a volley which wounded
+several and killed one. The crew then landed and pursued the natives,
+who made no attempt to resist them.
+
+Two detachments were sent in search of a watering place, and of trees
+suitable for repairing the masts of the _Castries_. Six days passed in
+fruitless search; fortunately not wholly wasted, as many curious
+observations were made on behalf of science.
+
+"From the considerable number of shells which we found at short
+distances," says Crozet, "we concluded that the ordinary food of these
+savages was mussels, cockles, and various shell-fish."
+
+Is it not strange to find, among the New Zealanders, the remains of
+food similar to that with which we are familiar on the Scandinavian
+coasts? Is not man everywhere the same, and incited by the same needs
+to the same actions?
+
+Finding it waste of time to seek for water and wood with which to
+remast the _Castries_ and repair the _Mascarin_, which leaked a good
+deal, Marion started on the 10th of March for New Zealand, and reached
+that island fourteen days later.
+
+New Zealand, discovered by Tasman in 1642, and visited by Cook and
+Surville in 1772, was now becoming known.
+
+The two vessels made for land at Mount Egmont, but the shore was so
+steep at this point, that Marion put back to sea and returned to
+reconnoitre the land upon the 31st of March in 36 degrees 30 minutes
+latitude.
+
+He coasted along the shore, and, in spite of contrary winds, returned
+northward as far as the Three Kings Islands. He found it impossible to
+land there. It was therefore necessary to reach the mainland, and
+anchor was cast opposite Cape Maria-Van-Diemen, the most northerly
+extremity of New Zealand. The anchorage was soon perceived to be bad,
+and after many attempts Marion stopped at Cook's Island Bay on the
+11th of May.
+
+Tents were erected on one of the islands, where wood and water were
+found, and the sick were installed there under a strong guard. The
+natives came on board, some of them even slept there, and trade,
+facilitated by the use of a Tahitan vocabulary, was carried on in
+grand style.
+
+"I remarked with surprise," says Crozet, "that among the savages who
+came on board were three distinct species of men. One of these
+appeared to be the original native, and was of a yellowish white
+colour, taller than the others, the usual height being from five foot
+nine to five foot ten inches; he had smooth black hair. The more
+swarthy and somewhat smaller men had slightly curling hair. And lastly,
+the genuine negro, with woolly hair and of smaller stature than the
+others, but usually broader chested. The first have very little beard,
+whilst the negroes have a great deal."
+
+This curious observation was afterwards verified. It is unnecessary to
+linger over the customs of the New Zealanders, or over Marion's minute
+description of their fortified villages, their arms, clothing and
+food; these details are already known to our readers.
+
+The French pitched three camps on land. The first for the sick, upon
+Matuaro Island, the second upon the mainland, which served as a depot,
+and a means of communication with the third, which was the workshop of
+the carpenters, and was some two leagues away in the midst of a wood.
+The crew, persuaded by the friendliness of the natives, made long
+excursions into the interior, and received a hearty welcome everywhere.
+Confidence was at length so fully established that, in spite of
+Crozet's representations, Marion ordered the sloops' boats to be
+disarmed. This was unpardonable imprudence in a country where Tasman
+had given the name of Assassin Bay to the first point on which he
+landed, where Cook had met with cannibals, and had been nearly
+massacred.
+
+On the 8th of June, Marion landed, and was received with even greater
+demonstrations of friendship than usual. He was proclaimed head chief
+of the country, and the natives placed four white feathers in his hair,
+as insignia of royalty.
+
+Four days later he again landed with two young officers, MM. de
+Vaudricourt and Le Houx, a volunteer and captain of arms, and a few
+sailors, seventeen persons in all. Evening approached, but no one came
+back to the ship. At first no anxiety was felt, for the hospitable
+customs of the natives were well-known. It was supposed that Marion
+had slept on shore, to be ready to visit the workshops in the morning.
+
+On the 13th of June the _Castries_ sent her boat for the daily supply
+of wood and water. At nine o'clock a man was seen swimming towards the
+ships. A boat was lowered to help him on board. It was one of the
+rowers, the only one who had escaped from the massacre of his comrades.
+He had received two lance thrusts in the side, and been much
+ill-treated.
+
+[Illustration: "The only one who had escaped."]
+
+From his account, it appeared that the natives had at first shown
+their usual friendliness. They had even carried the sailors, who
+feared getting wet, ashore upon their shoulders. But, when the crew
+dispersed to pick up their cargo of wood, the natives reappeared,
+armed with spears, tomahawks, and clubs, and threw themselves in
+parties of six and seven upon each of the sailors. The survivor had
+been attacked by two men only, who had wounded him with two lance
+thrusts, and as, fortunately, he was not far from the sea, he had
+succeeded in reaching the shore, where he hid himself in some
+brushwood. From thence he had witnessed the massacre of all his
+companions. The savages had the bodies stripped, and commenced cutting
+them up, when he stole noiselessly from his concealment, and threw
+himself into the sea, hoping to reach the ship by swimming. Had all
+the sixteen men who accompanied Marion, and of whom no news was
+received, met a like fate? It seemed probable. In any case, it was
+needful to take immediate precautions for the safety of the three
+camps. Chevalier Du Clesmeur at once took the command, and, thanks to
+his energy, the disaster did not assume worse proportions.
+
+The sloop of the _Mascarin_ was armed and sent in search of Marion's
+boat and sloop, with orders to warn all the camps, and carry help to
+the most distant, where masts and spars were being made. On the road,
+upon the shore, the two boats were discovered near the village of
+Tacoury. They were surrounded by natives, who had pillaged them after
+massacring the sailors.
+
+Without waiting to regain possession of the boats, the officer put on
+all speed in the hope of reaching the workshop in time. Fortunately,
+it had not yet been attacked by the natives. All work was immediately
+stopped, the utensils and weapons were collected, the guns were loaded,
+and such objects as could not be removed were buried beneath the ruins
+of the shed, which was set on fire.
+
+The retreat was accomplished amongst crowds of natives, crying in
+sinister tones, "Tacouri mate Marion," "Tacouri has killed Marion."
+Two leagues were traversed in this manner, during which no aggression
+was attempted against the sixty men who composed the detachment. Upon
+their arrival at the sloop, the natives approached them; Crozet first
+sent all the sailors who carried loads on board, then, tracing a line
+on the ground, he made it understood that the first native who passed
+it would immediately be fired upon. An order was then given to the
+natives to seat themselves; and it must have been an imposing
+spectacle to see thousands obeying unresistingly, in spite of their
+desire to seize the prey which was escaping before their eyes.
+
+Crozet embarked last, and no sooner had he set foot in the sloop than
+the war-cry was uttered; whilst javelins and stones were thrown from
+every direction. Hostilities had succeeded threats, and the savages
+rushed into the water the better to aim at their foes. Crozet found
+himself obliged to prove to these wretches the superiority of his
+weapons, and gave orders to fire. The New Zealanders, seeing their
+comrades fall wounded or dead, without their appearing to have been
+touched, were quite amazed. They would all have been killed had not
+Crozet stopped the firing. The sick were taken on board without
+accident, and the encampment, reinforced and put on guard, was not
+molested.
+
+Next day, the natives, who had an important village upon Matuaro
+Island, endeavoured to prevent the sailors from fetching the water and
+wood they needed. The latter then marched against them, bayonet in
+hand, and followed them up to their village, where they shut
+themselves in. The voice of the chief inciting them to battle was
+heard. Firing was commenced as soon as the village was within range,
+and this was so well directed that the chiefs were the first victims.
+As soon as they fell, the natives fled. Some fifty were killed, the
+rest were driven into the sea, and the village was burned.
+
+It was useless to dream of bringing to the shore the five masts, made
+with great difficulty from the cedars which had been cut down, and the
+carpenters were obliged to repair the mast with pieces of wood
+collected on the ships. The provisioning of the ships with the seven
+hundred barrels of water, and seventy loads of wood, necessary for the
+voyage, would infallibly occupy at least a month, for there remained
+only one sloop.
+
+The fate of Marion, and the men who had accompanied him, was still
+unknown. A well-armed detachment therefore started for the village of
+Tacouri.
+
+It was abandoned! Only men too old to follow the flight of their
+companions remained, and were seated in the doors of their huts. An
+effort was made to take them. One of them, without any apparent effort,
+at once struck a soldier with a javelin he held in his hand. He was
+killed, but no injury was inflicted upon the others who were left in
+the village. All the houses were thoroughly searched. In Tacouri's
+kitchen a man's skull was found which had been cooked some days before.
+Some fleshy parts still remained which bore the impress of the
+cannibal's teeth. On a wooden spit, a piece of a human thigh, three
+parts eaten, was found. In another house, a shirt was recognized as
+having belonged to the unfortunate Marion. The collar was soaked in
+blood, and two or three holes were found in the side, also
+blood-stained. In various other houses, portions of the clothes, and
+the pistols belonging to young Vaudricourt, who had accompanied the
+Captain, were brought to light. The boat's arms, and quantities of
+scraps of the unfortunate sailors' clothing, were also discovered.
+
+[Illustration: "A man's skull was found."]
+
+Doubt was unfortunately no longer possible. An account of the death of
+the victims was drawn up, and Chevalier Du Clesmeur searched Marion's
+papers to discover his projects, and the plans for the prosecution of
+the voyage. He found only the instructions given by the Governor of
+Mauritius.
+
+A council was held with the ship's officers, and, bearing in mind the
+lamentable condition of the vessels, it was decided to abandon the
+search for new lands, and to make for Amsterdam or Rotterdam Island,
+then for the Mariana and Philippines, where there was a chance of
+disposing of the cargo, before returning to Mauritius. On the 14th of
+July, Du Clesmeur left Treason Port, as he named the bay of these
+islands, and the vessels steered towards Amsterdam and Rotterdam
+Islands, to the north of which they passed on the 6th of August.
+Navigation was aided by splendid weather, a fortunate circumstance, as
+scurvy had made such ravages among the sailors, that very few of them
+were in a condition to work. At length, on the 20th of September,
+Guaham Island, the largest of the Mariana group, was discovered. It
+was impossible to cast anchor until seven days later.
+
+The account published by Crozet contains very precise and
+circumstantial details regarding this island, with its productions and
+inhabitants. We will only transcribe from it one phrase, as explicit
+as it is short.
+
+"Guaham Island," he says, "appeared to us a terrestrial paradise. The
+air was excellent, the water good, the vegetables and fruits were
+perfect, the herds of cattle, goats, and pigs, innumerable; every
+species of fowl abounded." Amongst the vegetable productions, Crozet
+mentions "Rima," the fruit of which is good to eat, when it has
+attained its full growth and is still green.
+
+"In this condition," he says, "the natives gather it for food. They
+remove the rough skin, and cut it in slices like bread. When they wish
+to preserve it, they cut it in round pieces, and dry it in the sun or
+in an oven, in the form of very small cakes. This natural biscuit
+preserves its bread-like qualities for several years, and far longer
+than our best ship's biscuits."
+
+From Port Agana, Crozet reached the Philippine Islands, and anchored
+off Cavite, in Manilla Bay. This was the spot where the _Castries_ and
+_Mascarin_ parted, to go back to Mauritius separately.
+
+Some years previously a gallant officer of the royal navy, Chevalier
+Jacques Raymond de Geron de Grenier, who was one of that group of
+distinguished men,--the Chazelles, the Bordas, the Fleuriens, the Du
+Martz de Gormpy, the Chaberts, the Verduns de la Crenne, who
+contributed so zealously to the progress of navigation and
+geography--had employed his leisure, during a stay in the Isle of
+France, in exploring the adjacent seas.
+
+He had made a very profitable cruise in the corvette, the _Heure du
+Berger_, during which he rectified the position of Saint Brandon's
+rock, and of the Saya-de-Malha sandbank, examined separately Saint
+Michael, Rocque-pire, and Agalega in the Seychelles archipelago, and
+corrected the charts of Adu and Diego Garcia Islands. Convinced of the
+connexion of the currents with the monsoon, which he had thoroughly
+studied, he proposed a shortened route, always open, from the Isle of
+France to the Indies. It would be a saving of eight hundred leagues,
+and was well worth serious consideration.
+
+The minister of Marine, who had seen Grenier's proposition well
+received by the Naval Academy, decided to entrust its examination to a
+ship's officer, who was accustomed to work of the kind.
+
+He selected Yves-Joseph de Kerguelen. During two expeditions,
+undertaken in 1767 and 1768, for the encouragement and protection of
+the cod-fisheries on the coast of Iceland, this navigator had surveyed
+a great number of ports and roadsteads, collected astronomical
+observations, rectified the map of Iceland, and accumulated a mass of
+particulars concerning this little-known country. It was he, indeed,
+who gave the earliest authentic account of "geysers," those springs of
+warm water which occasionally reach to such great heights, and he also
+supplied curious details of the existence of fossil wood, which prove
+that at an early geological period, Iceland, now entirely devoid of
+trees, possessed enormous forests.
+
+Kerguelen had at the same time published novel details of the manners
+and customs of the inhabitants.
+
+"The women," he said, "have dresses, jackets, and aprons made of a
+cloth called 'wadmal' which is made in Iceland. They wear an ample
+robe above their jackets, rather like that of the Jesuits, but not so
+long as the petticoats, which they allow to be seen. These robes are
+of different colours, but generally black; they are called 'hempe.'
+They are trimmed with velvet or some other ornament. The head-dresses
+look like pyramids or sugar-loaves, two or three feet high. The women
+ornament the head with a large handkerchief of very coarse cloth,
+which stands upright, and they cover it with another finer one, which
+forms the shape of which I spoke." Lastly, Kerguelen had collected
+very interesting documents, relating to Denmark, the Laplanders, the
+Samoyedes, the Faroe Islands, the Orkney and Shetland Islands, which
+he had thoroughly explored.
+
+Kerguelen, entrusted with the examination of the route proposed by
+Grenier, asked permission of the minister to employ his ship to
+explore all the southern lands discovered in 1739 by Bouvet de Lozier.
+The Abbe Terray, who had just succeeded the Duke of Praslin, gave him
+command of the ship _Le Berryer_, which brought 300 able-bodied seamen
+and provisions for fourteen months from Lorient, together with some
+ammunition for Mauritius. The Abbe Rochon was associated with
+Kerguelen, for making astronomical observations. Upon reaching
+Mauritius, on the 20th of August, 1771, Kerguelen exchanged the
+_Berryer_ for the _La Fortune_, to which a small vessel, the
+_Gros-ventre_, with sixteen guns and a crew of a hundred men, was
+attached under command of M. de Saint Allouarn.
+
+As soon as the two vessels were equipped, Kerguelen set sail and
+steered northward in search of the Mahe Islands. During a great storm,
+the sounding lines of the _Fortune_ gave an ever-decreasing depth,
+first thirty, then twenty, and at last only fourteen fathoms. Anchor
+was then cast, and it held fast throughout the tempest.
+
+"Daybreak at last relieved our anxieties," says Kerguelen; "we
+perceived neither land nor rock. The _Gros-ventre_ was three leagues
+distant; her captain could not believe that I was at anchor, for the
+noise of the thunder, and the dazzling lightning, prevented his
+hearing or seeing my signals. This is the sole instance of a vessel
+anchoring in the night in the open sea upon an unknown coast. I set
+sail, and allowed the vessels to drift, taking constant soundings. I
+at first found fourteen, then twenty, then twenty-five, at last
+twenty-eight fathoms. Then I suddenly lost the bottom altogether,
+proving that we had passed above a submarine mountain. This new bank,
+which I called Fortune Bank, stretched, N.W. and S.E. It is situated
+in 7 degrees 16 minutes S. lat. and 55 degrees 50 minutes E. long."
+
+The _Fortune_ and the _Gros-ventre_ then made for 50 degrees S. lat.,
+which was the route recommended by the Chevalier de Grenier. The two
+captains were aware that the winds constantly blew from the east, at
+this season of the year, and therefore went to the Maldives, and
+coasted along Ceylon from Point de Galle, to Trincomalee. Upon their
+return the monsoon had changed. The prevailing winds were W. and S.W.
+as Grenier had predicted. The route suggested by him had undeniable
+advantages, and these have been so amply confirmed by experience that
+no other is now followed.
+
+Returning to Mauritius on the 8th of December, Kerguelen hurried his
+preparations for departure to such an extent that he was able to start
+upon the 12th of January, 1772. He steered southwards, for, supposing
+that he found land in that direction, the nearest would naturally be
+the most useful for the French colony.
+
+From the 1st of February, numbers of birds seemed to indicate the
+proximity of land. Hail succeeded snow. The vessels experienced foul
+weather, boisterous winds, and a heavy sea. The first land was sighted
+upon the 12th. Next day a second was discovered, and shortly
+afterwards a very lofty and extensive cape. The following day at seven
+o'clock in the morning, the sun having dispelled the clouds, a line of
+coast extending some twenty-five leagues was clearly seen. The vessels
+were then in 49 degrees 40 minutes S. lat. and 61 degrees 10 minutes E.
+long.
+
+Unfortunately storm succeeded storm, and the two vessels with great
+difficulty escaped being cast ashore. Kerguelen was driven northward
+by currents, shortly after he had sent a boat to attempt a landing.
+
+"Finding myself so far from land," says Kerguelen, "I reflected upon
+the best course to be pursued. I remembered that the state of my mast
+was too bad to allow me to crowd sail, and leave the coast, and that,
+having no sloop to carry my anchors, I was exposed to extreme danger
+whilst near the shore, that in the dense fog it was all but impossible
+to find the _Gros-ventre_, from which I had been separated for several
+days. It was the more difficult on account of the tempest we had
+experienced, and the variable winds that prevailed. These reflections
+and my conviction that the _Gros-ventre_ was an excellent sailer, and
+that she was provisioned for seven months, determined me to return to
+Mauritius, which I reached upon the 16th of March." Fortunately no
+accident had happened to the _Gros-ventre_. Her boat had returned in
+time; M. de Boisguehenneuc, who had landed, had taken possession of
+the land with all the usual formalities, and left some writing in a
+bottle, which was found by Captain Cook in 1776.
+
+Kerguelen returned to France, but his successful enterprise had gained
+him many enemies. When upon the 1st of January, 1772, the king
+nominated him captain, and Chevalier de Saint Louis, the attacks upon
+him increased. The most malignant slanders were circulated. They even
+went the length of accusing him of having scuttled the _Gros-ventre_
+in order to derive all the benefit accruing from the discovery which
+he had made in concert with M. de Saint Allouarn.
+
+The minister, however, was not influenced by these slanders, and
+decided to entrust the command of a second expedition to Kerguelen.
+The _Roland_, and the frigate _Oiseau_, left Brest upon the 26th of
+March, 1772, the latter under command of M. de Saux de Rosnevet.
+
+Upon reaching the Cape, Kerguelen was obliged to put in for forty days.
+The entire crew was suffering from putrid fever, probably owing to the
+dampness of the new vessel.
+
+"This appeared the more probable," says the narrative, "because all
+the dried vegetables, such as peas, beans, lentils, &c., together with
+the rice, and a quantity of biscuits, were spoiled in the store-room.
+The vegetables emitted a kind of steam which was infectious, and the
+store-rooms became infested with numbers of white worms. The _Roland_
+left the Cape upon the 11th of July, but she was almost immediately
+overtaken by a frightful tempest, which carried away two topsails, the
+jib, and the mizen mast. Finally Mauritius was reached by means of
+jury-masts."
+
+MM. de Roches and Poivre, who had contributed so essentially to the
+success of the first expedition, had been succeeded by M. de Ternay
+and the Intendant Maillard. They appeared determined to offer every
+possible obstacle to the execution of Kerguelen's orders. They gave
+him no fresh victuals, of which the crew had pressing need, and there
+were no means of replacing the masts destroyed by the tempest. In lieu
+of the thirty-four sailors who had to go to the hospital, he was
+provided only with disgraced or maimed soldiers, of whom he was glad
+to rid himself. An expedition to the southern seas, so equipped, could
+only come to a disastrous end; and that was precisely what happened.
+
+On the 5th of January, Kerguelen sighted the lands he had discovered
+in his first voyage, and between that date and the 16th he recognized
+various points, Croy Island, Re-union Island, Roland Island, which in
+his estimation made more than eighty leagues of coast. The weather
+continued extremely severe; thick fogs, snow, hail, and gales
+succeeded each other. On the 21st, the vessels could only keep in
+company by constant firing. Upon that day the cold was so severe that
+several of the sailors fainted on deck.
+
+[Illustration: Island discovered by M. Marion du Fresnes in 1772,
+called Prince Edward's Island by Cook in 1776.]
+
+"The officers," says Kerguelen, "insisted that the ordinary ration of
+biscuit was not enough, and that without more the crew could not
+possibly resist the cold and fog. I increased each man's rations by
+four ounces of biscuit daily."
+
+Upon the 8th of January, 1774, the _Roland_ signalled the frigate at
+Re-union Island. Communication with her was opened, and M. Rosnevet
+declared that he had found an anchorage in a bay behind Cape Francais,
+that he had sent a boat on the 6th to take soundings, and that, upon
+landing to take possession, the men had killed a sea-lion and some
+penguins.
+
+Once again, the prostrate condition of the crew, the bad quality of
+the victuals, and the dilapidated state of the vessels, prevented
+Kerguelen from making a thorough investigation of this desolate
+archipelago. He was forced to return; but, instead of returning to
+Mauritius, he landed in Antongil Bay, Madagascar, where he was sure of
+obtaining lemons, limes, custard apples, and other anti-scorbutics, as
+well as fresh meat.
+
+An adventurer named Beniowski, whose history is sufficiently curious,
+had just founded a French colony there. But he was in need of
+everything. Kerguelen gave him ammunition, bricks, iron implements,
+shirts, blankets, &c., and finally ordered his carpenters to build a
+store-shed for him.
+
+Thirty-four of the crew of the _Roland_ had died since leaving the
+southern regions, and if Kerguelen had remained another week in these
+latitudes, he would have lost a hundred men! On his return to France,
+Kerguelen met with nothing but ill-will and calumny, in return for so
+much fatigue, so bravely born. The feeling against him was so strong
+that one of his officers was not ashamed to publish a memoir, in which
+all the facts were dressed up in the most unfavourable shape, and the
+failure of the enterprise thrown upon Kerguelen. We do not assert that
+he was entirely free from blame, but we consider the verdict of the
+council of war which deprived him of his rank, and condemned him to
+detention in the Chateau of Saumur, most unjust. No doubt the judgment
+was found to be excessive, and the government discerned more malice
+than justice in it, for a few months later Kerguelen was restored to
+liberty. The gravest charge against him was that of having abandoned
+his sloop and a portion of his crew, in the southern seas, who, but
+for the opportune arrival of the _Fortune_, must have perished.
+Probably, however, even this was much exaggerated, for a letter exists
+from the abandoned officer, M. de Rosily (afterwards vice-admiral), in
+which he begs to serve again under Kerguelen. The account of these
+expeditions is an extract from the apology published by Kerguelen
+during his imprisonment, a work which was confiscated by government,
+and on that account is extremely rare.
+
+We must now turn our attention to the account of expeditions which,
+although they did not result in discoveries, had an importance of
+their own. They contributed to the rectification of charts, to the
+progress of navigation and geography, but, above all, they solved a
+long-standing problem, the determination of longitude at sea.
+
+To decide upon the position of a locality it is first necessary to
+obtain its latitude, that is to say, its distance N. or S. from the
+equator, and its longitude, or in other words its distance E. or W.
+from some known meridian.
+
+At this period, no instrument for determining the position of a ship
+existed but the rope known as a log, which, thrown into the sea,
+measured the distance which the ship made every half minute; the
+proportionate speed of the vessel per hour was deduced from it. But
+the log is far from immoveable, and the speed of a vessel is not
+always the same, hence arose two important sources of error. The
+direction of the route was determined by the mariner's needle or
+compass. But every one knows that the compass is subject to variations,
+and that the vessel does not invariably follow the course it indicates,
+and it is no easy matter to determine the exact difference. These
+inconveniences once admitted, the question was to find a method exempt
+from them.
+
+With Hadley's quadrant, latitude could be determined within a minute,
+that is to say, to the third of a league. But such an approximate
+exactitude was not possible in deciding longitudes. When once the
+different phenomena of the variations of the magnetic needle, either
+of declination or inclination, should be fully understood, it would be
+easy; but how to obtain this knowledge? It was well known that in the
+Indian Sea, between Bourbon, Madagascar, and Rodriguez, a variation of
+four degrees in the declination of the needle was equivalent to a
+variation of five degrees in the longitude, but it was equally
+admitted that the declination of the magnetic needle was subject to
+variations, in the same localities, for which no cause could be
+assigned.
+
+Verdun de la Crenne, writing in 1778, says a declination of twelve
+degrees, from N. to W. twenty years ago, indicated a longitude of 61
+degrees W. of Paris, in any given latitude. It is very probable that
+within the last twenty years the declination has varied two degrees,
+which makes the longitude deduced from it wrong by two and a half
+degrees, or nearly fifty nautical miles.
+
+If the right time is known on board, that is to say, the correct time
+by which the meridian could be computed at the moment of any given
+observation, and if at the same time, the exact time at the port from
+which the ship had started, or that if any known meridian could be
+ascertained, the difference of time would evidently give that of the
+meridians, at the rate of fifteen degrees per hour, or one degree per
+four minutes. The problem of the longitude could thus be reduced to a
+determination, at a given moment of the time at any given meridian.
+
+To achieve this it was necessary to have a watch or clock which should
+preserve a perfect isochronism, in defiance of the state of the sea or
+differences of temperature.
+
+Many attempts had been made. Besson in the sixteenth century, Huyghens
+in the seventeenth century, and again Sully, Harrison, Dutertre,
+Gallonde, Rivas, Le Roy, and Ferdinand Berthoud had attempted to solve
+the problem.
+
+The English and French Governments, moreover, convinced of the value
+of a perfect instrument, had offered a high reward for its invention.
+The Academy of Science had instituted a competition. In 1765 Le Roy
+sent in two watches for competition, whilst Berthould, who was in the
+king's service, was unable to do so. Le Roy's watches passed
+successfully through the various trials to which they were subjected
+on land. It remained to be proved whether they would be equally
+trustworthy at sea.
+
+The Marquis de Constanvaux had the frigate _Aurora_ built at his own
+cost for this experiment. Le Roy, however, decided that a cruise, with
+constant stoppages, at Calais, Dunkirk, Rotterdam, Amsterdam and
+Boulogne, lasting only from the 25th of May to the 29th of August, was
+far too short, and he demanded a second trial. This time his watches
+were sent on board the frigate, the _Enjouee_, which, leaving Havre,
+put in at St. Pierre near Teneriffe, at Salee in Africa, at Cadiz, and
+finally, after a voyage of four months and a half, at Brest. The trial
+had been a serious one, the latitudes and the state of the sea having
+both changed constantly. If the watch had neither lost or gained, it
+won the prize, which was in fact assigned to Le Roy.
+
+The Academy, however, knew that many other scientific men had bestowed
+their attention upon the subject, and for various causes had been
+unable to exhibit. They therefore proposed the same subject for the
+competition of 1771, and in 1773 they doubled the prize.
+
+F. Berthould imagined that he had reached perfection, but his watch
+had still to be tested by the trial of a long sea voyage.
+
+The _Isis_, a frigate of eighteen guns, was equipped at Rochefort at
+the latter end of 1768, and placed under command of Chevalier d'Eveux
+de Fleurien, known later as Caret-de Fleurien. Fleurien, then a
+midshipman, was already, though only thirty years of age, a well known
+_savant_. We have already mentioned his name, and shall find further
+occasion to do so. At this juncture, fascinated by mechanics, Fleurien
+had assisted Berthould in his undertaking, but that his
+disinterestedness might be above suspicion, he selected several
+officers to assist him in observing the motions of the watch which was
+entrusted to him.
+
+Starting in November, 1768, the _Isis_ put in successively at Cadiz,
+the Canary Islands, Goree, the Cape Verde Islands, Martinique, St.
+Domingo, Terra Nuova, the Canaries, Cadiz again, and reached Aix
+Island on the 31st of October, 1769.
+
+The watches, carried through climates alternately cold, hot, and
+temperate, had experienced every vicissitude of climate, and at the
+same time had been exposed to all the variations of the sea, in the
+roughest season of the year.
+
+After this trial, which had redounded so much to his honour, Berthould
+obtained the rank and pension of an inspector of nautical watches.
+
+This expedition had other results which concern us more particularly.
+Fleurien took a number of astronomical observations, and
+hydrographical surveys, which resulted in a well-founded condemnation
+of the maps of his country.
+
+"For a long time," he says, in his account of his voyage, "I did not
+attempt criticism of the maps belonging to the Society; I wished to
+limit myself to giving new details by which they might be rectified;
+but I found such numberless and dangerous mistakes, that I should have
+considered myself culpable towards mariners if I had neglected fully
+to point them out."
+
+A little further on he justly criticizes the maps of a geographer who
+had at one time been famous.
+
+"I will not undertake," he says, "to enumerate all the errors which I
+have found in M. Bellin's maps. Their number is infinite. I shall
+content myself simply with proving the necessity for the work I did,
+by indicating the more glaring faults, either by comparing the
+positions of various places upon his maps, with the positions they
+should have occupied if _M. Bellin had been willing to use the
+astronomical observations which have been published at various times_;
+or by comparing other positions with those which we have determined by
+our own observations."
+
+Lastly, after giving a long list of errors in the situation of the
+most frequented places of Europe, of Africa and America, he winds up
+with these judicious words:--
+
+"Upon glancing at a list of the various errors I have discovered in M.
+Bellin's maps, one is led to a reflection, sad but true and
+inevitable--if the maps of the best known part of the globe, and on
+which the greater number of observations have been taken, are so far
+from correct, what exactitude can we hope to find in maps representing
+less frequented shores and islands, drawn and arranged by guess-work?"
+
+Up to this time the watches had been examined separately and by
+different judges. Now arose the question of submitting them
+simultaneously to the same test, and of seeing which would come out
+victorious.
+
+For this purpose the frigate _La Flore_ was equipped at Brest, and the
+command was given to a most distinguished officer, Verdun de la Crenne,
+who was to become vice-admiral in 1786. The various stages of the
+expedition were Cadiz, Madeira, the Salvage Islands, Teneriffe, Goree,
+Martinique, Terra Nuova, Iceland--which our explorers had some trouble
+to find--the Faroe Islands, Denmark and Dunkerque. The narrative
+published by Verdun de la Crenne, like that of Fleurien, abounds in
+rectifications of every kind. It is easy to see how carefully and
+exactly the soundings were taken, with what care the coasts were
+surveyed; but not a little interesting also is that which is
+altogether wanting in Fleurien's publication, descriptions of the
+countries and critical reflections upon the manners and customs of the
+different peoples visited.
+
+Amongst the most interesting particulars contained in two large 4to
+volumes, we must mention those relating to the Canary Islands and
+their ancient inhabitants the Sereres and Yolof, on Iceland, and the
+accurate remarks made by Verdun upon the subject of the meridian of
+Faroe Islands.
+
+"It was the most easterly meridian of these islands," he says, "that
+Ptolemy chose for the first meridian. It would doubtless have been
+easy for him to have selected Alexandria for the first meridian; but
+this great man was aware that such a choice would bring no real honour
+to his country, that Rome and other ambitious towns might covet this
+imaginary glory, that every geographer, every narrator of voyages,
+arbitrarily choosing his own meridian, would engender confusion or at
+least embarrassment in the mind of the reader."
+
+Clearly Verdun regarded the question of the first meridian from a high
+standpoint, as all really disinterested minds still do. It gives him
+yet another claim to our sympathy.
+
+Let us conclude with a quotation from this author: "The watches came
+out of the contest with honour. They had borne heat and cold, they had
+been becalmed, they had endured shocks as well as the vessel which
+carried them when it was wrecked at Antigua, and when it received
+charges of artillery. In a word, they fulfilled the hopes we had
+indulged, they deserve the confidence of navigators, and lastly they
+are of great service in the determination of longitude at sea."
+
+The solution of the problem was found!
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+The Expedition of La Perouse--St. Catherine's Island--Conception
+Island--The Sandwich Islands--Survey of the American coast--French
+Port--Loss of two boats--Monterey and the Indians of California--Stay
+at Macao--Cavite and Manilla--_En route_ for China and Japan--
+Formosa--Quelpaert Island--The coast of Tartary--Ternay Bay--The
+Tartars of Saghalien--The Orotchys--Straits of La Perouse--Ball at
+Kamtchatka--Navigator Islands--Massacre of M. de Langle and several of
+his companions--Botany Bay--No news of the Expedition--D'Entrecasteaux
+sent in search of La Perouse--False News--D'Entrecasteaux Channel--The
+coast of New Caledonia--Land of the Arsacides--The natives of Bouka--
+Stay in Port Carteret--Admiralty Islands--Stay at Amboine--Lewin
+Land--Nuyts Archipelago--Stay in Tasmania--Fete in the Friendly
+Islands--Particulars of the stay of La Perouse at Tonga Tabou--Stay at
+Balado--Traces of La Perouse in New Caledonia--Vanikoro--Sad fate of
+the Expedition.
+
+
+The result of Cook's voyage, except the fact of his death, was still
+unknown, when the French government resolved to make use of the
+leisure which the peace just concluded had secured to the navy. The
+French officers, desirous of emulating the success of their old rivals
+the English, were fired with a noble emulation to excel them in some
+new field. The question arose as to the fittest person for the conduct
+of an important expedition. There was no lack of deserving candidates.
+Indeed, in the number lay the difficulty.
+
+The Minister's choice fell upon Jean Francois Galaup de la Perouse,
+whose important military services had rapidly advanced him to the rank
+of captain. During the last war he had been intrusted with the
+difficult mission of destroying the English posts in Hudson's Bay, and
+in this task he had proved himself not only an able soldier and sailor,
+but a man who could combine humanity with professional firmness.
+Second to him in the command was M. de Langle, who had ably assisted
+him in the expedition to Hudson's Bay.
+
+[Illustration: Portrait of La Perouse. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+A large staff embarked upon the two frigates _La Boussole_ and
+_L'Astrolabe_. On board the _Boussole_ were La Perouse; Clenard, who
+was made captain during the expedition; Monneron, an engineer;
+Bernizet, a geographer; Rollin, a surgeon; Lepante Dagelet, an
+astronomer of the Academy of Sciences; Lamanon, a physicist; Duche de
+Vancy and Prevost the younger, draughtsmen; Collignon, a botanist; and
+Guery, a clock maker. The _Astrolabe_, in addition to her commander,
+Captain de Langle, carried Lieutenant de Monte, who was made captain
+during the voyage, and the celebrated Monge, who, fortunately for the
+interests of science, landed at Teneriffe upon the 30th of August,
+1785.
+
+The Academy of Sciences and the Society of Medicine had drawn up
+reports for the Minister of Marine, in which they called the attention
+of the navigators to certain points. Lastly, Fleurien, the
+superintendent of ports and naval arsenals, had himself drawn up the
+maps for the service of the expedition, and added to it an entire
+volume of learned notes and discussions upon the results of all known
+voyages since the time of Christopher Columbus.
+
+The two ships carried an enormous amount of merchandise for trade, as
+well as a vast quantity of provisions and stores, a twenty-ton boat,
+two sloops, masts, and reserve sets of sails and rigging.
+
+[Illustration: Map of the journey of La Perouse, after the atlas
+published by General Millet-Mureau.]
+
+The two frigates sailed upon the 1st of August, 1785, and anchored off
+Madeira thirteen days later.
+
+The French were at once charmed and surprised at the kind and cordial
+welcome accorded them by the English residents. Upon the 19th La
+Perouse put into Teneriffe.
+
+"The various observations," he says, "made by MM. de Fleurien, Verdun,
+and Borda, upon Madeira, the Salvage Islands, and Teneriffe leave
+nothing to be wished for. Our attention was therefore confined to
+testing our instruments."
+
+This remark proves that La Perouse was capable of doing justice to his
+predecessors. And we shall have other opportunities of observing that
+quality in him.
+
+While the astronomers devoted themselves to estimating the regularity
+of the astronomical watches, the naturalists, with several officers,
+ascended the Peak, and collected some curious plants. Monneron
+succeeded in measuring this mountain with much greater accuracy than
+his predecessors, Herberdeen, Feuillee, Bouguer, Verdun, and Borda,
+who calculated its height respectively at 2409, 2213, 2100, and 1904
+fathoms. Unfortunately his work, which would have settled the
+discussion, never reached France.
+
+Upon the 16th of October, the isles, or rather rocks, of Marten Vas
+were seen. La Perouse ascertained their position, and afterwards made
+for the nearest, Trinity Island, which was only some nine leagues to
+the west. The commander of the expedition sent a sloop on shore in
+charge of an officer, in the hope of finding water, wood, and
+provisions. The officer had an interview with the Portuguese governor,
+whose garrison consisted of about two hundred men, fifteen of whom
+wore uniforms, and the rest merely shirts. The poverty of the land was
+obvious, and the French re-embarked without having obtained anything.
+
+After a vain search for Ascension Island, the expedition reached Saint
+Catherine's Island, off the coast of Brazil.
+
+"After ninety-six days' navigation," we read in the narrative of the
+voyage published by General Millet-Mureau, "we had not one case of
+illness on board. The health of the crew had remained unimpaired by
+change of climate, rain, and fog; but our provisions were of
+first-class quality; I neglected none of the precautions which
+experience and prudence suggested to me; and above all, we kept up our
+spirits by encouraging dancing every evening among the crew, whenever
+the weather permitted, from eight o'clock till ten."
+
+Saint Catherine's Island, of which we have more than once had occasion
+to speak in the course of this narrative, extends from 27 degrees 19
+minutes 10 seconds S. lat. to 27 degrees 49 minutes. It is only two
+leagues wide, and is divided in its narrowest part from the mainland
+by a channel of two hundred fathoms. The town of Nostra Senora del
+Desterra, the capital of the colony, where the governor resides, is
+built at the point of this narrow entrance. The population amounts, at
+the utmost, to three thousand, and there are about four hundred houses.
+The appearance of the town is very pleasant. According to Frezier's
+account, this island was a refuge in 1712 for the vagabonds who fled
+there from different parts of Brazil. They were Portuguese subjects in
+name only, and recognized no other authority. The country is so
+fertile that the inhabitants can live quite independently of any
+neighbouring colony. The ships in the harbour gave them shirts and
+coats, of which they had absolutely none, in exchange for provisions.
+
+This island is extremely fertile, and the soil could easily be made to
+grow sugar-cane, but the inhabitants are so poor that they cannot buy
+the needful slaves for the labour.
+
+The French vessels found all that they needed in this spot, and their
+officers were cordially received by the Portuguese authorities.
+
+The following fact will give an idea of the hospitality of these
+people. "My boat," says La Perouse, "having been upset in a creek
+where I was having wood cut, the inhabitants, after assisting in
+saving it, insisted on our shipwrecked sailors using their beds, and
+themselves slept on mats upon the floor of the room where they
+received them so hospitably. A few days later they brought to my
+vessel the sails, mast, grapnel, and flag of the boat, which would
+have been of great use to them for their pirogues."
+
+The _Boussole_ and the _Astrolabe_ weighed anchor upon the 19th of
+November, and directed their course to Cape Horn. After a violent
+storm, during which the frigates behaved very well, and after forty
+days' fruitless search for the large island discovered by a Frenchman,
+Antoine de la Roche, and called Georgia by Captain Cook, La Perouse
+crossed the Straits of Lemaire. Finding the winds favourable, he
+decided not to remain in Good Success Bay at this advanced season of
+the year, but immediately to double Cape Horn, in the hope of avoiding
+a possible delay that would have exposed his ships to injury and his
+crew to useless fatigue.
+
+The friendly demonstrations of the Fuegians, the abundance of whales,
+which had never before been disturbed, the immense flocks of albatross
+and petrels, did not change his resolve. Cape Horn was rounded more
+easily than could have been expected. Upon the 9th of February the
+expedition was in the Straits of Magellan, and upon the 24th anchor
+was cast in Concepcion Harbour, which La Perouse preferred to that of
+Juan Fernandez, on account of the exhaustion of his provisions. The
+robust health of the crews astonished the Spanish governor. Possibly
+this was the first time a vessel had rounded Cape Horn and arrived in
+Chili without any sick on board.
+
+The town, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1757, had been
+rebuilt three leagues from the sea, upon the shore of the river Biobio.
+The houses are of one storey, and the town of La Concepcion contains
+ten thousand inhabitants. The bay is one of the most commodious in the
+world; the sea is smooth, and almost free from currents. This part of
+Chili is wonderfully fertile. One ear of corn reproduces sixty; vines
+are equally prolific; and the country teems with innumerable flocks,
+which multiply beyond all credence.
+
+In spite of these prosperous conditions the country made no progress,
+on account of the prohibitive system which at this time prevailed.
+Chili, with its productions, which might easily have fed the half of
+Europe; its wool, which might have sufficed for the manufactures of
+France and England; its meats, which might have been preserved--had no
+commerce whatever. At the same time the duty upon imported goods was
+excessive, so that living was very dear. The middle class, as the
+"bourgeoisie" are now called, did not exist; the population consisted
+of two classes, the rich and the poor, as the following passage
+shows:--
+
+"The dress of the women consists of a plaited skirt of the ancient
+gold or silver tissues which were formerly manufactured at Lyons.
+These petticoats, which are kept for grand occasions, are often
+inherited like diamonds, and are handed down from generation to
+generation. They are only worn by a small number of the higher class;
+the others have scarcely the means of clothing themselves at all."
+
+[Illustration: Costumes of the inhabitants of Conception.]
+
+We will not follow La Perouse into his details of the enthusiastic
+reception given to him, and we will pass over in silence his
+description of balls and toilettes, which never for a moment induced
+him to lose sight of the object of his voyage. So far the expedition
+had only passed through regions often before visited by Europeans. It
+was now about to penetrate to less-known realms. Anchor was raised
+upon the 15th of March, and, after a voyage entirely free from
+incident, the two frigates anchored upon the 9th of April in Cook's
+Bay, Easter Island.
+
+La Perouse affirms that Mr. Hodges, the painter, who accompanied the
+celebrated English navigator, has given a very unjust representation
+of the inhabitants. Generally their physiognomies are pleasing, but
+they cannot be said to have much character.
+
+This is by no means the only point upon which the French navigator
+differs from Captain Cook. He believed the famous statues, of which
+one of the draughtsmen made an excellent sketch, to have been the work
+of the present generation, whose numbers he estimates at two thousand.
+It appeared to him also that the absolute lack of trees, and therefore
+of lakes and rivers, was due to the extravagant waste of wood by the
+earlier races. No disagreeable incident occurred during the stay.
+Robberies, it is true, were frequent; but as the French intended
+remaining only one day on the island, they thought it superfluous to
+give the population stricter ideas of honesty.
+
+[Illustration: Inhabitants of Easter Island.]
+
+After leaving Easter Island, upon the 10th of April, La Perouse
+followed much the same route as Cook had done in 1777, when he sailed
+from Tahiti to the American coast; but he was a hundred leagues
+farther west. La Perouse indulged in the hope of making discoveries in
+this little-known region of the Pacific Ocean, and he promised to
+reward the sailor who should first sight land. Upon the 29th of May
+the Hawaian archipelago was reached.
+
+The naval watches proved of great assistance upon this occasion, and
+justified the opinion entertained of them. Upon reaching the Sandwich
+Islands La Perouse found a difference of five degrees between the
+longitude given and that obtained by him. Without the watches he would
+have placed this group five degrees too far east. This explains why
+the islands discovered by the Spanish--Mendana, Queros, &c.--are much
+too near the American coast, and also the non-existence of the group
+called by the Spaniards La Mesa, Los Majos, and La Disgraceada, which
+there is every reason to suppose was none other than the Sandwich
+archipelago, as Mesa in Spanish means "table," and Captain King
+compares the mountain called Mauna Loa to a plateau or table-land. He
+did not, however, trust to conjecture; he crossed the reputed site of
+Los Majos, and found not the slightest trace of land.
+
+"The aspect of Monee," says La Perouse, "is delightful. We saw water
+tumbling in cascades from the summit of the mountains, and reaching
+the sea after watering the Indian plantations, of which there are so
+many that each village extends over three or four leagues. All the
+huts are, however, on the sea-shore; and the mountains are so close
+that the habitable portion of the land appeared to me to be less than
+half a league in depth. One must be a sailor, and, like us, have been
+reduced to a bottle of water per day in a burning climate, to realize
+the sensations we experienced. The trees which crowned the mountains,
+the green fields, the banana-trees which surrounded the dwellings, all
+combined to charm our senses with an inexpressible delight; but the
+sea broke violently on the shore, and, like Tantalus, we were obliged
+to devour with our eyes what was completely beyond our reach."
+
+The two frigates had no sooner anchored than they were surrounded by
+pirogues, full of natives, offering pigs, potatoes, bananas, "taro,"
+&c. Clever traders, they attached most value to bits of old iron rings.
+Their acquaintance with iron and its use, for which they were not
+indebted to Cook, is another proof that this people had known the
+Spaniards, to whom the discovery of the group is probably due.
+
+The welcome accorded to La Perouse was most cordial, in spite of the
+military force by which he had thought proper to protect himself.
+Although the French were the first to land on Monee Island, La Perouse
+did not think it his duty to take possession.
+
+"The usual European custom in such matters," he says, "is perfectly
+ridiculous. Philosophers may well sigh when they see men, simply
+because they have guns and bayonets, thinking nothing of sixty
+thousand of their fellow-men, and, without the least respect for the
+most sacred rights, looking upon a land whose inhabitants have
+cultivated it in the sweat of the brow, and whose ancestors lie buried
+there, as an object fit for conquest."
+
+La Perouse does not pause to give any details about the inhabitants of
+the Sandwich Islands. He only passed a few hours there, whilst the
+English remained for four months. He therefore rightly refers to
+Captain Cook's narrative.
+
+During their short stay the French bought more than a hundred pigs,
+mats, fruits, a pirogue, ornaments made of feathers and shells, and
+handsome helmets decorated with feathers.
+
+The instructions furnished La Perouse before his departure enjoined
+him to survey the American coast, of which a portion, extending to
+Mount Elias had, with the exception of Nootka port, been merely
+sighted by Captain Cook.
+
+On the 23rd of June he reached 60 degrees N. lat., and, in the midst
+of a long chain of snow-covered mountains, recognized the Mount Elias
+of Behring. After skirting along the coast for some time, La Perouse
+sent three boats, under command of one of his officers, M. de Monte,
+who discovered a large bay, to which he gave his name.
+
+Following the coast at a short distance, surveys were taken, which
+were uninterrupted as far as an important river, which received the
+name of Behring. Apparently it was that to which Cook had given this
+name.
+
+Upon the 2nd of July, in 58 degrees 36 minutes lat., and 140 degrees 3
+minutes long., what appeared to be a fine bay was discovered. Boats,
+under command of MM. de Pierrevert, de Flassan, and Boutevilliers,
+were sent to examine it.
+
+Their report being favourable, the two frigates arrived at the
+entrance of the bay, but the _Astrolabe_ was driven back to the open
+sea by a strong current, and the _Boussole_ was forced to join her. At
+six o'clock in the morning, after a night passed under sail, the
+vessels again approached the bay. "But," says the narrative, "at seven
+in the morning, when we were close to it, the wind veered so suddenly
+to W.N.W. and N.N.W., that we were forced to give way, and even to
+bring our ships to the wind. Fortunately the tide carried our frigates
+into the bay, and we escaped the rocks on the east by half a pistol's
+range. I anchored in three and a half fathoms, with a rocky bottom,
+half a cable's length from shore. The _Astrolabe_ had anchored in the
+same depth, and upon a similar bottom. In all the thirty years I have
+spent at sea, I have never seen two vessels in greater danger. Our
+situation would have been safe had we not anchored upon a rocky bottom,
+which extended several cables' length around us, and which was
+different from what MM. de Flasson and Boutevilliers had reported. We
+had no time to make reflections; it was above everything necessary to
+get out of our dangerous anchorage, to which the rapidity of the
+current was a great obstacle." However, by dint of much skilful
+tacking, La Perouse succeeded.
+
+Ever since their entry into the bay the vessels had been surrounded by
+pirogues swarming with savages. The natives showed a decided
+preference for iron, in exchange for fish and the skins of otters and
+other animals. After a few days' stay their number increased rapidly,
+and they became, if not dangerous, at least a nuisance.
+
+La Perouse established an observatory upon one of the islands in the
+bay, and set up tents for the sail makers and smiths. Although these
+posts were most carefully watched, the natives, gliding along the
+ground like snakes, scarcely stirring a leaf, managed in spite of our
+sentinels to commit various thefts; and one night they were clever
+enough to enter the tent where MM. de Launston and Darbaud (who were
+in charge of the observatory) slept. They carried off a silver-mounted
+gun, as well as the clothes belonging to the two officers, who had
+placed them for safety under their pillows. They escaped the notice of
+a guard of twelve men, and the two officers were not even awakened.
+
+[Illustration: Typical native of the Port des Francais.]
+
+But now the stay of the expedition in this port drew to a close. The
+soundings, surveys, plans, and astronomical observations were
+completed; but, before finally leaving the island, La Perouse wished
+thoroughly to explore the depths of the bay. He imagined that some
+large river must empty itself into it, which would enable him to
+penetrate into the interior; but in all the openings he entered he
+found only vast glaciers, which extended to the very summit of Fair
+Weather Mount.
+
+No accident or sickness marred the success which had so far attended
+the expedition.
+
+"We thought ourselves," says La Perouse, "the most fortunate of
+navigators, for having reached so great a distance from Europe without
+having had one invalid or a single sufferer from scurvy. But the
+greatest misfortune, and one it was impossible to foresee, now awaited
+us."
+
+Upon the chart of the Port des Francais, drawn up by MM. Monneron and
+Bernizet, the soundings alone remained to be indicated. The naval
+officers were bound to accomplish the task, and three boats, under the
+orders of MM. d'Escures, de Marchainville, and Boutin, were selected
+for the undertaking. La Perouse, acquainted with the somewhat rash
+zeal of M. d'Escures, advised him on the eve of departure to act with
+most careful prudence, and only to attempt the soundings in the
+channel if the sea were smooth.
+
+The boats left at six o'clock in the morning. It was as much a party
+of pleasure as of duty, as the crews were to hunt, and breakfast under
+the trees.
+
+"At ten in the morning," says La Perouse, "I saw our little boat
+return. Somewhat surprised, for I had not expected it so soon, I asked
+M. Boutin, before he came on deck, whether he had any news. At first I
+feared an attack from the natives, and M. Boutin's expression was not
+calculated to reassure me, for it was profoundly sad.
+
+"He soon related to me the terrible disaster he had just witnessed,
+and from which he had escaped by the presence of mind which enabled
+him to see the best course to pursue in the dreadful peril. Carried,
+whilst following his commander, into the midst of breakers caused by
+the tide rushing with a speed of three or four leagues per hour out of
+the channel, he thought he could place his boat stern on the breakers;
+the boat yielding to their force, and being impelled by the tide,
+would not fill, but would be carried safely outside.
+
+"Soon, however, he saw breakers ahead of his boat, and found himself
+in the open sea. More concerned for the safety of his companions than
+for his own, he again approached the breakers, and in the hope of
+saving some life he again braved them, but was repulsed by the tide;
+finally, he mounted on M. Mouton's shoulder, in the hope of finding a
+wider opening. All was in vain; everything had been swallowed up, and
+M. Boutin returned with the ebb of the tide.
+
+"The sea becoming quieter, this officer had still some hope of finding
+the boat of the _Astrolabe_; he had only witnessed the loss of ours. M.
+de Marchainville was now a quarter of a mile from the danger, that is
+to say, in a sea as still as the quietest harbour; but, impelled by an
+imprudent generosity--for all help was quite impossible under the
+circumstances--this rash young officer, being too high-spirited and
+too courageous to pause in presence of his friends' danger, flew to
+their help, threw himself among the breakers, and, a victim to his
+imprudence and disregard of his chief's orders, perished with him.
+
+"M. de Langle shortly after came on board my ship, as much overcome as
+myself, and informed me with tears that the misfortune was even
+greater than I had supposed. We had always made a point, ever since
+leaving France, of never allowing the two brothers, M. la Borde
+Marchainville and M. la Borde Boutevilliers, to go on the same service,
+but on this one occasion he had yielded, as they desired to hunt
+together; and it was almost wholly on this account that we had, both
+of us, directed our boats in the way we did, thinking there was as
+little danger as there is in Brest Harbour in fine weather.
+
+"Several boats were at once despatched in search of the shipwrecked
+crew. Rewards were offered to the natives if they saved any one; but
+the return of the sloops destroyed all hope. All had perished."
+
+[Illustration: Shipwreck of French boats outside the Port des Francais.
+(Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+Eighteen days after this catastrophe, the two frigates left the Port
+des Francais. La Perouse erected a monument to the memory of his
+unfortunate countrymen, in the middle of the bay, on an island which
+he called the Cenotaph. It bore the following inscription:--
+
+ "At the entrance of this port, twenty-one brave sailors perished.
+ Whoever you are, mingle your tears with ours."
+
+A bottle, containing an account of this deplorable accident, was
+buried at the foot of the monument.
+
+The Port des Francais, which is situated in 58 degrees 37 minutes N.
+lat., and 139 degrees 50 minutes W. long., presents many advantages,
+but also many inconveniences--foremost amongst them the currents of
+the channel. The climate is much milder than in Hudson's Bay, which is
+in the same latitude. The vegetation is vigorous; pines six feet in
+girth, and a hundred and forty in height, are not rare. Celery, sorrel,
+lupine, wild pea, chicory, and mimulus are met with in every direction,
+as well as many pot-herbs, the use of which helped to keep the crews
+in health.
+
+The sea supplied abundance of salmon, trout, cod, and plaice.
+
+In the woods are found black and brown bears, the lynx, ermine, weasel,
+minever, squirrel, marmot, beaver, fox, elk, and the wild goat. The
+most precious skins are those of the otter, wolf, and sea-bear.
+
+"But if the vegetable and animal productions of this country," says La
+Perouse, "are similar to those of many others, its aspect cannot be
+compared with them, and I doubt whether the deep valleys of the Alps
+and Pyrenees offer so terrible, and at the same time so picturesque, a
+prospect. Were it not at one of the extremities of the world, it
+should be visited by every one."
+
+As to the inhabitants, La Perouse gives an account of them which is
+worth preserving.
+
+"The Indians in their pirogues surrounded our frigates, hovering about
+for three or four hours before beginning to exchange a few fish, or
+two or three otter skins; they seized every opportunity of robbing us;
+they tore off all the iron which could be easily carried away, and
+they took every precaution to elude our vigilance at night. I invited
+some of the principal personages on board my frigate, and loaded them
+with presents; and the very men I distinguished in this manner did not
+scruple to steal a nail or an old pair of trousers. Whenever they
+assumed a particularly lively and pleasant air, I was convinced that
+they had committed a theft, and I often pretended not to see it."
+
+The women make an opening in the thick part of the lower lip, the
+whole length of the jaw. They wear a sort of wooden bowl without a
+handle, which rests on the gums, "to which this split lip forms an
+outer cushion, in such a way that the lower part of the mouth
+protrudes some two or three inches."
+
+The forced stay which La Perouse had just made in Port des Francais
+prevented his stopping elsewhere and reconnoitring the indentations of
+the coast, for at all hazards he was to reach China during the month
+of February, in order to secure the following summer for the survey of
+the coast of Tartary.
+
+He successively reconnoitred, upon this coast, Cross Sound, where the
+high snow-covered mountains cease, Cook's Island Bay, Engamio Cape,
+low land partly submerged and containing Mount Hyacinthine, Mount
+Edgecomb of Cook, Norfolk Sound, where the following year the English
+navigator Dixon was to anchor, ports Necker and Guibert, Cape
+Tschiri-Kow, Croyere Islands, so called after the brother of the
+famous geographer Delisle, companion of Tschiri-Kow, the San Carlos
+Islands, La Touche Bay, and Cape Hector.
+
+La Perouse imagined that these various coast lines were formed by a
+vast archipelago; and in this he was correct. They contained George
+III.'s Island, Prince of Wales and Queen Charlotte's Islands--Cape
+Hector forming the southern extremity of the latter.
+
+The season was far advanced, and too short a time remained at La
+Perouse's disposal to allow of his making detailed observations of
+these countries; but his instinct had justly led him to imagine that
+the series of points he had discovered indicated a group of islands,
+and not a continent. Beyond Cape Fleurien, which formed the extremity
+of an elevated island, he passed several groups, which he named
+Sartines, and then returning, he reached Nootka Sound on the 25th of
+August. He afterwards visited various parts of the continent which
+Cook had been unable to approach, and which had left a blank on his
+chart. This navigation was attended with a certain amount of danger,
+on account of the currents, "which rendered it impossible to make more
+than three knots an hour at a distance of five leagues from land."
+
+Upon the 5th of September new islets were discovered, about a league
+from Cape Blanco, to which the captain gave the name of Necker Islands.
+The fog was very thick, and more than once the fear of running upon
+some islet or rock, the existence of which could not be suspected,
+obliged the vessels to deviate from the land. Until they reached
+Monterey Bay the weather continued bad. At that port La Perouse found
+two Spanish vessels.
+
+At this time Monterey Bay abounded in whales, and the sea was
+literally covered with pelicans, which were very common upon the
+Californian coast.
+
+A garrison of two hundred and eighty men was sufficient to keep in
+order a population of fifty thousand Indians, wandering about this
+part of America. It must be admitted that these Indians were usually
+small and insignificant, and not endowed with that love of
+independence which characterizes the northern tribes; and, unlike them,
+they have no appreciation of art, and no industry.
+
+"These Indians," says the narrative, "are very expert in the use of
+the bow and arrow. They killed the smallest birds in our presence. It
+is true that they approach them with wonderful patience, hiding
+themselves, gliding, somehow, close to their prey, and aiming at them
+only when within fifteen paces.
+
+"Their skill in the capture of larger animals is even more wonderful.
+We saw an Indian with a stag's head over his own, walking on all fours,
+appearing to graze, and carrying out the pantomime with such truth to
+life that our hunters would have fired at him at thirty paces had they
+not been prevented. By this means the natives approach quite close to
+a herd of deer, and then kill them with arrows."
+
+[Illustration: "An Indian with a stag's head over his own."]
+
+La Perouse gave many details of the presidency of Loretto and of the
+Californian missions, but these are rather of historical interest, and
+are out of place in a work of this kind. His remarks upon the
+fertility of the country are more within our programme. "The harvest
+of maize, barley, corn, and peas," he says, "is comparable only to
+that of Chili. Our European husbandmen could not conceive of such
+abundance. The most moderate yield of corn is at the rate of from
+seventy and eighty to one, and the largest from sixty to a hundred."
+
+Upon the 22nd of September the two frigates returned to sea, after a
+cordial welcome from the Spanish governor and the missionaries. They
+carried with them a quantity of provisions of all sorts, which would
+be of the greatest value to them during the long trip to be taken
+before reaching Macao.
+
+The portion of the ocean now to be crossed by the French was almost
+unknown. The Spaniards had navigated it previously, but their
+political jealousy prevented their publishing the discoveries and
+observations they had made. La Perouse wished to steer S.W. as far as
+28 degrees lat., where some geographers had placed the island of
+Nuestra Senora-de-la-Gorta.
+
+But he looked for it in vain during a long and difficult cruise, with
+contrary winds, which sorely tried the patience of the navigators.
+
+"We were daily reminded," he says, "by the condition of our sails and
+rigging, that we had been sixteen months at sea. Our ropes gave way,
+and the sail makers could not repair the sails, which were fairly worn
+out."
+
+Upon the 6th of November a small island, or rather rock, some five
+hundred fathoms long, upon which not a single tree grew, and which was
+thickly covered with guano, was discovered. It was named Necker Island,
+and is in 166 degrees 52 minutes long. W. of Paris, and 23 degrees 34
+minutes N. lat.
+
+Never had the expedition seen a more lovely sea, or a more exquisite
+night, when suddenly, at about half-past one in the morning, breakers
+were perceived two cable lengths ahead of the _Boussole_. The sea,
+only broken here and there by a slight ripple, was so calm that it
+scarcely made any sound. The ship's course was altered immediately;
+but the manoeuvre took time, and when it was accomplished the vessel
+was but a cable's length off the rocks.
+
+"We had just escaped one of the most imminent dangers to which
+navigators are subject," says La Perouse, "and I must do my crews the
+justice to say that less disorder and confusion in such a position
+would have been impossible. The slightest neglect in the execution of
+the manoeuvres which were necessary to carry us from the breakers
+would have been fatal."
+
+These rocks were unknown; it was therefore needful to determine their
+exact position, for the safety of succeeding navigators. La Perouse,
+after fulfilling this duty, named them the "Reef of the French
+Frigates."
+
+Upon the 14th of December the _Astrolabe_ and the _Boussole_ sighted
+the Mariana Islands. A landing was effected upon the volcanic island
+of Assumption. Here the lava had formed ravines and precipices,
+bordered by a few stunted cocoa-nut trees, alternately with tropical
+creepers and a few shrubs. It was almost impossible to advance a
+couple of hundred yards in an hour. Landing and re-embarkation were
+difficult, and the few cocoa-nut shells and bananas, of a new variety,
+which the naturalists obtained, were not worth the risk.
+
+It was impossible to remain longer in this archipelago if China were
+to be reached before the vessels returned to Europe. They were to take
+back an account of the results of the expedition upon the American
+coast, and of the crossing to Macao.
+
+After taking the position of the Bashees, without stopping, La Perouse
+sighted the coast of China, and next day cast anchor in the roadstead
+of Macao.
+
+Here La Perouse met with a small French cutter, commanded by M. de
+Richery, midshipman, whose business it was to cruise about the eastern
+coast, and protect French trade.
+
+The town of Macao is so well known that it is needless for us to give
+La Perouse's description of it. The constant outrages and humiliations
+to which Europeans were daily subjected under the most despotic and
+cowardly government in the world, aroused the indignation of the
+French captain, and made him heartily wish that an international
+expedition might put a stop to so intolerable a state of things.
+
+The furs which had been collected upon the American coasts were sold
+at Macao for ten thousand piastres. The sum produced should have been
+divided among the crews, and the head of the Swedish company undertook
+to ship it at Mauritius; but the unfortunate sailors themselves were
+never to receive the money.
+
+Leaving Macao on the 5th of February, the vessels directed their
+course to Manilla, and, after sighting the shoals of Pratas, Bulinao,
+Manseloq, and Marivelle, wrongly placed upon D'Apres' maps, they were
+forced to put into the port of Marivelle, to wait for better winds and
+more favourable currents. Although Marivelle is only one league to
+windward of Cavito, three days were consumed in reaching the latter
+port.
+
+"We found," says the narrative, "different houses where we could
+repair our sails, salt our provisions, construct two boats, lodge the
+naturalists and geographical engineers, and the governor kindly lent
+us his own for the establishment of our observatory. We enjoyed as
+much liberty as if we had been in the country; and in the market and
+arsenal we found the same resources as in the best European ports."
+
+Cavito, the second town of the Philippine islands, and the capital of
+the province of the same name, was then but a miserable village, where
+only Spanish military and government officers resided; but although
+the town was nothing but a mass of ruins, it was none the less a port,
+and afforded the French every possible resource. Upon the morrow of
+his arrival La Perouse, accompanied by De Langle and his principal
+officers, paid a visit to the governor, reaching Manila by boat.
+
+"The environs of Manila are delightful," he says. "A most beautiful
+river flows through it, separating into different canals, one of which
+leads to the famous Bay Lake, which is distant seven leagues in the
+interior, surrounded by more than a hundred Indian settlements in the
+midst of a most fertile territory.
+
+"Manila, built upon the shore of the bay of that name, which is more
+than twenty-five leagues in circumference, is at the mouth of a river
+navigable as far as the lake in which it rises. It is probably the
+most fortunately situated town in the whole world. Provisions are
+found there in the greatest profusion, and very cheap; but clothing,
+European cutlery, and furniture fetch an enormous price.
+
+"Want of competition, the prohibitive tariffs, and commercial
+restrictions of every sort, tend to make the productions and
+manufactured goods of India and China at least as dear as in Europe;
+and although the various duties on imports bring to the treasury some
+eight hundred thousand piastres, the colony costs the Spanish
+government at least fifteen hundred thousand francs per annum, which
+are sent from Mexico. The immense possessions of the Spanish in
+America have prevented the government from bestowing much attention
+upon the Philippines. They are still like the possessions of great
+lords, which remain uncultivated, though they might provide fortunes
+for many families.
+
+"I do not hesitate to state, that a great nation with no colony but
+the Philippine Islands, supposing that colony to be as well governed
+as possible, need not envy all the European colonies in Africa and
+America."
+
+Upon the 9th of April--after having heard of the arrival at Macao of M.
+d'Entrecasteaux, who had come from Mauritius with the contrary monsoon,
+and received despatches from Europe by the frigate _La Subtile_, MM.
+Guyet, midshipman, and Le Gobien, naval officer, and a reinforcement
+of eight sailors--the two vessels set out for the coast of China.
+
+Upon the 21st La Perouse sighted Formosa, and at once entered the
+channel which separates that island from China. He discovered a very
+dangerous bank unknown to navigators, and carefully examined the
+soundings and approaches. Shortly afterwards he passed in front of the
+bay of the ancient Dutch fort of Zealand, where the capital of the
+island, Tai-wan, is situated.
+
+The monsoon was unfavourable for ascending the channel, and La Perouse
+therefore resolved to pass to the east of the island. He rectified the
+position of the Pescadores Islands, a mass of rocks which assume
+various shapes, reconnoitred the small island of Botol-Tabaco-Xima,
+where no navigator had landed, coasted Kinin Island, which forms part
+of the kingdom of Liken, whose inhabitants are neither Chinese nor
+Japanese, but appear to be of both races, and sighted Hoa-pinsu and
+Tiaoy-su Islands. The latter form part of the Liken Archipelago, known
+only through the letters of Father Goubil, a Jesuit.
+
+The frigates then entered the Eastern Sea, and directed their course
+to the channel which divides China and Japan. La Perouse there
+encountered fogs as thick as those which prevail upon the coast of
+Labrador, with variable and violent currents. The first point of
+interest before entering the Sea of Japan was Quelpaert Island, first
+made known to Europeans by the shipwreck of the _Sparrow Hawk_ upon
+its coast in 1635. La Perouse determined its southerly extremity, and
+surveyed it for a distance of twelve leagues.
+
+"It is scarcely possible," he says, "to find an island of pleasanter
+aspect. A peak of about four thousand five hundred feet high, visible
+at a distance of eighteen or twenty leagues, rises in the centre of
+the island; the land slopes gently from thence to the sea, so that the
+houses look like an amphitheatre. The soil seemed to be highly
+cultivated. By the aid of our glasses we clearly made out the
+divisions of the fields. They are in very small allotments, which
+augurs a large population. The different shades of the various
+cultivated patches give a very agreeable variety to the view."
+
+The explorers had ample opportunity for taking the longitude and
+latitude, which was the more important, as no European vessel had
+navigated these seas, which were only indicated upon the maps in
+accordance with the Chinese and Japanese maps published by the Jesuits.
+
+Upon the 25th of May the frigates entered the channel of Corea, which
+was minutely explored, and in which soundings were taken every half
+hour.
+
+As it was possible to keep close in shore, it was easy to observe some
+fortifications in the European style, and to note all their details.
+
+On the 27th an island was perceived which was not to be found upon any
+map, and which seemed to be about twenty leagues distant from the
+coast of Corea. It received the name of Dagelet Island.
+
+The course was now directed towards Japan, but it was very slow, on
+account of the contrary winds that prevailed.
+
+On the 6th of June Cape Noto and the island of Tsus Sima were
+discovered.
+
+"Cape Noto, upon the Japanese coast," says La Perouse, "is a point on
+which geographers may rely. Reckoning from it to Cape Kona on the
+eastern coast, the position of which was determined by Captain King,
+the width of the northern half of the empire may be ascertained. Our
+observations have the greater value for geographers as they determine
+the width of the Gulf of Tartary, to which I now directed my course."
+
+[Illustration: Map of the coast of Asia, after the map of La Perouse's
+voyage published by General Millet-Mureau.]
+
+Upon the 11th of June La Perouse sighted Tartary. He made land
+precisely at the boundary between the Corea and Manchuria. The
+mountains appeared to be six or seven thousand feet high. A small
+quantity of snow was visible on the summits. No trace of inhabitants
+or cultivation could be seen; nor was any river's mouth found upon a
+length of coast extending for forty leagues. A halt would have been
+desirable, to enable the naturalists and lithologists to make
+observations.
+
+"Up to the 14th of June the coast had run to the N.E. by N. We were
+now in 44 degrees lat., and had reached the degree which geographers
+assign for the so-called Strait of Tessoy, but we were five degrees
+farther west than the longitude given for this spot. These five
+degrees should be taken from Tartary, and added to the channel which
+separates it from the islands north of Japan."
+
+Whilst coasting along this shore no sign of habitation had been
+perceived--not a pirogue left the shore. The country, although covered
+with magnificent trees and luxuriant vegetation, appeared to be
+uninhabited.
+
+On the 23rd of June the _Boussole_ and the _Astrolabe_ cast anchor in
+a bay situated in 45 degrees 13 minutes N. lat. and 135 degrees 9
+minutes E. long. It was named Ternay Bay.
+
+"We burned with impatience," say La Perouse, "to reconnoitre this land,
+which had occupied our imagination ever since we left France. It was
+the only portion of the globe which had escaped the indefatigable
+activity of Captain Cook; and perhaps we owe the small advantage of
+having first landed there to the sad event which ended his days.
+
+"This roadstead was formed of five little creeks, separated one from
+the other by hillocks covered with trees of a more delicate and varied
+green than is to be seen in France in the brightest spring. Before our
+boats reached the shore, our glasses had been directed to the coast,
+but we perceived nothing but stags and bears, quietly grazing. Our
+impatience to disembark increased at the sight. The ground was
+carpeted with plants similar to those of our climate, but more
+vigorous and green; most of them were in flower. At every step we
+found roses, red and yellow lilies, lilies of the valley, and almost
+all our field flowers. The summits of the mountains were crowned with
+pines, and oak-trees grew half way up, decreasing in size and vigour
+as they neared the sea. The rivers and streams were planted with
+willows, birches, and maples; and skirting the larger woods we saw
+apple-trees and azaroles in full bloom, as well as clumps of nut-trees,
+the fruit of which was beginning to form."
+
+Upon returning from a fishing excursion the French met with a Tartar
+tomb. Curiosity induced them to open it, and they found in it two
+skeletons, lying side by side. The heads were covered with stuff caps,
+the bodies were wrapped in bearskins, and from the waists hung several
+little Chinese coins and copper ornaments. They also found
+half-a-score of silver bracelets, an iron hatchet, a knife, and other
+things, amongst which was a small bag of blue nankeen filled with rice.
+
+Upon the morning of the 27th La Perouse left this solitary bay, after
+depositing there several medals, with an inscription giving the date
+of his arrival.
+
+A little further on, more than eight hundred cod, which were at once
+salted, were caught, and an immense quantity of oysters with superb
+mother of pearl were also obtained.
+
+After a stay in Saffren Bay, situated in 47 degrees 51 minutes N. lat.
+and 137 degrees 25 minutes E. long., La Perouse discovered, upon the
+6th of July, an island, which was no other than Saghalien. The shore
+here was as wooded as that of Tartary. Lofty mountains arose in the
+interior, the highest of which was called Lamanon peak. As huts and
+smoke were seen, M. de Langle and several officers landed. The
+inhabitants had recently fled, for the ashes of their fires were
+scarcely cold.
+
+Just as the French were re-embarking, after leaving some presents for
+the natives, a pirogue landed seven natives, who showed no signs of
+fear.
+
+"Amongst them," says the narrative, "were two old men with long white
+beards, dressed in stuff made from the bark of trees, very like the
+cotton drawers worn in Madagascar. Two of the seven natives had coats
+of padded nankeen, differing little in shape from those of the Chinese.
+Others wore long gowns, which were fastened by means of a waist-belt
+and some little buttons, so that they had no need of drawers. Their
+heads were bare, but one or two of them wore bearskin bands. They had
+their forelocks and faces shaven, but the back hair kept about eight
+or ten inches long, in a different fashion from the Chinese, however,
+who leave only a round tuft of hair, which they call 'pen-t-sec.' All
+had sealskin boots with the feet artistically worked _a la Chinoise_.
+
+"Their weapons were bows, spears, and arrows, tipped with iron. The
+oldest of the natives, to whom the others showed the most respect, had
+his eyes in a dreadful state; he wore a shade round his head, to
+protect them from the sun. These natives were grave in manner, and
+friendly."
+
+M. de Langle appointed a meeting for the morrow. La Perouse and most
+of his officers attended. The facts they learned about these Tartars
+were important, and decided La Perouse to pursue his discoveries
+further north.
+
+"We succeeded in making them understand," he says, "that we wished
+them to draw their country, and that of Manchuria. One of the old men
+then arose, and with the point of his spear traced the coast of
+Tartary westward, running nearly N. and S. To the east, _vis-a-vis_ in
+the same direction, he represented his island, and, placing his hand
+upon his breast, made us understand that he had indicated his own
+country. He left an opening between his island and Tartary, and,
+pointing to our vessels, showed us by signs that they could pass
+through it. At the south island he delineated another, and left a
+second opening, indicating that this too was a route for our ships.
+
+"His quickness in understanding us was great, but not equal to that of
+another islander, about thirty years of age, who, seeing that the
+figures traced on sand were rubbed out, took one of our pencils and
+some paper. He traced out his island, which he called Tchoka, and made
+a line for the little river upon the shore of which we were--placing
+it two-thirds of the length of the island from north to south. He then
+drew Manchuria, leaving, as the old man had done, a strait at the
+extreme end; and to our surprise he added the river Saghalien, the
+name of which the natives pronounce like ourselves. He placed the
+mouth of this river a little to the south of the northerly point of
+his island.
+
+"We afterwards wished to ascertain whether this strait was very wide.
+We tried to make him understand our idea. He caught at it at once, and,
+placing his two hands upright at a distance of three inches one from
+the other, he made us understand that he meant to indicate the width
+of the little river which formed our watering place; and then, holding
+them wider apart, he indicated that the second width was to represent
+that of the river Saghalien; and, separating them still more, he gave
+the breadth of the strait which divides his country from Tartary.
+
+"M. de Langle and I thought it of the greatest importance to ascertain
+whether the island we were coasting was that to which geographers had
+given the name of Saghalien, without guessing its extension southwards.
+I ordered all hands on board, and prepared to sail in the morning. The
+bay in which we had anchored received the name of Langle, from the
+captain who discovered it, and was the first to put foot on land.
+
+"In another bay upon the same shore, called Estaing Bay, the boats
+landed close to ten or twelve huts. They were larger than those we
+before had seen, and were divided into two rooms. That at the back
+contained the stove, cooking utensils, and the bench running all round.
+That in front was absolutely bare, and probably destined for the
+reception of strangers. The women fled when they saw the French land.
+Two of them, however, were caught, and, whilst they were being
+re-assured, time was found to sketch them. Their faces were peculiar,
+but pleasant; they had small eyes and thick lips, the upper one being
+painted or tattooed."
+
+[Illustration: He traced the coast of Tartary.]
+
+M. de Langle found the natives gathered about four boats, that were
+loaded with smoked fish, which they were helping to put in water. They
+were Manchurians, from the shores of Saghalien River. In the corner of
+the island was a kind of circus, planted with fifteen or twenty stakes,
+each surmounted by the head of a bear. It was supposed, not without
+some show of reason, that these trophies were intended to perpetuate
+the memory of a victory over this wild beast.
+
+Quantities of cod-fish were obtained upon this coast; and at the mouth
+of the river a prodigious quantity of salmon was caught. After
+reconnoitring the bay of La Jonquiere, La Perouse cast anchor in
+Casters Bay. His water supply was nearly exhausted, and he had no more
+wood. The further he penetrated into the strait which separates
+Saghalien from the continent, the more the depth diminished. La
+Perouse, recognizing that he could not double the island of Saghalien
+by the north, and afraid of not being able to leave the defile in
+which he now found himself excepting by the strait of Sangaar, which
+was much further south, determined to remain only five days in Casters
+Bay, a period which he absolutely needed to take in provisions.
+
+The observatory was set up in a small island, while the carpenters cut
+down wood, and the sailors filled the water-barrels.
+
+"The huts of these islanders, who call themselves Orotchys," says the
+narrative, "are surrounded by a drying ground for salmon, which were
+exposed to the sun upon perches, after having been smoked for three or
+four days at the stove which is in the centre of the hut. The women
+who have charge of this operation take them, as soon as they are
+smoked through, into the open air, where they become as hard as wood.
+
+"The natives joined us in our fishing with nets or hooks, and we saw
+them voraciously devouring the head, gills, and sometimes the skin, of
+raw salmon, tearing it up very cleverly. They sucked out the mucilage,
+much as we eat oysters. Their fish seldom reach the shore without
+having first paid toll, unless the catch is very large; and the women
+show the same eagerness to seize upon the whole fish, and in the same
+ravenous way devour the mucilaginous parts, which appear to be their
+tid-bits.
+
+"These people are revoltingly dirty. It would be impossible to find a
+race farther removed from our ideas of beauty. In height they are less
+than four foot ten, their bodies are emaciated, their voices are weak
+and shrill like children's. They have projecting cheek-bones, bleared
+and sunken eyes, large mouths, flat noses, short and almost beardless
+chins, and olive skins, shining with oil and smoke. They allow their
+hair to grow long, and dress it somewhat in the European style. The
+women wear it loose over their shoulders, and the description we have
+given applies to them as well as to the men, from whom they are
+scarcely to be distinguished, except for a slight difference in their
+apparel. The women are not subject to any labour, which, as in the
+case of the American Indians, might have accounted for the inelegance
+of their appearance. All their time is occupied in cutting out and
+making their clothes, in drying fish and nursing their children, whom
+they suckle to the age of three or four years. It rather astonished me
+to see a child of this age, who had been shooting with bow and arrows,
+beating a dog, &c., throw himself upon his mother's bosom, and take
+the place of an infant of five or six months who was lying asleep upon
+her knees."
+
+[Illustration: Typical Orotchys. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+The Bitchys and the Orotchys confirmed much of the information which
+La Perouse had already obtained. From them he ascertained that the
+northern point of Saghalien was connected with the continent merely by
+a sand-bank, on which grew seaweed, and where there was but little
+water.
+
+This concurrence of testimony left no room for doubt, especially as he
+never found more than six fathoms in the canal. There remained but one
+point of interest to determine, and that was the survey of the
+southern point of Saghalien, which he had only explored as far as
+Langle Bay in 47 degrees 49 minutes.
+
+Upon the 2nd of August the _Astrolabe_ and the _Boussole_ left Casters
+Bay, and returned southwards, successively discovering and
+reconnoitring Monneron Island and Langle Peak, doubling the southern
+point of Saghalien called Cape Crillon, which led to a strait between
+Oku-Jesso and Jesso; this they named after La Perouse. Hitherto the
+geography of this part of the world had been most fanciful and
+imaginary. Sansen was of opinion that Corea was an island, and that
+Jesso, Oku-Jesso, and Kamtchatka existed only in imagination; whilst
+Delisle insisted that Jesso and Oku-Jesso were merely an island,
+ending at Sangaar Strait; and lastly, Buache, in his "Considerations
+Geographiques," page 105, says, "Jesso, after being placed first in
+the east, then in the south, and finally in the west, was at last
+found to be in the north."
+
+To this confusion the discoveries of the French expedition were
+destined to put an end.
+
+La Perouse had some intercourse with the natives of Crillon Cape, and
+stated that they were handsome men, far more industrious than the
+Orotchys of Casters Bay, but less liberal in their dealings.
+
+"They have," he says, "one most important article of commerce--unknown
+in the channel of Tartary--from which they derive their riches, namely,
+whale oil. Of this they collect considerable quantities. They extract
+it in a way which is far from economical. They cut the flesh into
+pieces, and dry it upon a slope in the open air, by exposing it to the
+sun. The oil which flows from it is caught in vessels made of bark, or
+into bottles of dried sealskin."
+
+After sighting the Cape Arniva of the Dutch, the vessels coasted along
+the barren, treeless, uninhabited country in possession of the Dutch
+Company, and shortly reached the Kurile Islands. They then passed
+between Marikon Island and the Island of the Four Brothers, calling
+the strait--the finest amongst the Kurile Islands, through which they
+penetrated--La Boudeuse.
+
+On the 3rd of September the coast of Kamtchatka was reached. This
+coast was uninviting enough. "There the eyes rest painfully, and often
+fearfully, upon enormous masses of rock, which are already covered
+with snow in the beginning of September, and which never appear to
+have had any vegetation."
+
+Three days later Avatscha Bay, or the Bay of Saint Peter and Saint
+Paul, was reached. The astronomers at once proceeded to take
+observations; the naturalists made the perilous and arduous ascent of
+a volcano, some eight leagues inland; whilst those of the crew who
+were not engaged upon the vessels gave themselves up to hunting and
+fishing. Thanks to the welcome accorded by the governor, their
+pleasures were varied.
+
+"We were invited," says La Perouse, "to a ball which the governor
+wished to give to all the women, whether from Kamtchatka or Russia. If
+the ball was not large, it was at least mixed. Thirteen females,
+clothed in silk, ten of whom were natives of Kamtchatka, with large
+faces, small eyes, and flat noses, were seated upon benches round the
+room. Both they and the Russians wore silk handkerchiefs wrapped round
+the head, in a way similar to those worn by mulattoes. The ball opened
+with Russian dances, the airs for which were very lively, and like
+those of the Cossack dances given a short time since in Paris. These
+were followed by Kamtchatka dances, which were comparable only to the
+convulsionists of the famous tomb of Saint Medard. The dancers of this
+part of Asia scarcely require legs, they make such vigorous use of the
+shoulders and arms. The impression made upon the spectators by the
+convulsive and contorted movements of the Kamtchatka dancers is
+painful, and is rendered more so by a pitiful cry which escapes them
+at intervals, and which is the sole music by which they measure their
+time. The exertions they made are so formidable that they are
+completely covered with sweat, and at the conclusion they lie upon the
+ground unable to move a limb. The exhalations from their bodies
+permeate the atmosphere with the smell of fish and oil, so strong as
+to be disagreeable to the unaccustomed nostrils of Europeans."
+
+The arrival of a courier from Okotsk interrupted the ball. The news he
+brought was pleasant for every one, but particularly for La Perouse,
+who learned that he was promoted.
+
+During their stay in this port, the navigators found the tomb of Louis
+Delisle de la Croyere, Member of the Academy of Sciences, who died in
+Kamtchatka in 1741, upon his return from an expedition undertaken by
+command of the Czar for the survey of the American coast. His
+fellow-countrymen honoured his memory by placing an engraved copper
+slab over his grave. They paid the same homage to Captain Clerke,
+Captain Cook's second in command, and successor.
+
+"Avatscha Bay," says La Perouse, "is certainly the best, most
+commodious, and safest to be found in any part of the world. The
+entrance is narrow, and forts might easily be constructed to command
+vessels entering it. The anchorage is excellent, the bottom muddy; and
+two large harbours, one on the eastern shore and one on the west,
+would hold all the vessels of the French and English navy."
+
+The _Boussole_ and the _Astrolabe_ set sail upon the 29th of September,
+1787. M. de Lesseps, Vice-Consul for Russia, who had accompanied La
+Perouse thus far upon his expedition, was charged to return to France
+by land (at that time a most perilous journey), and to convey
+despatches from the expedition to the government.
+
+The question now arose of finding land discovered in 1620 by the
+Spaniards. The two frigates passed south of 37 degrees 30 minutes some
+three hundred leagues, without finding any trace of it. Crossing the
+line for the third time, they passed the site given by Byron as that
+of the Dangerous Islands, without finding them; and, upon the 6th of
+December, entered the Navigator Archipelago, the merit of discovering
+which belongs to Bougainville. The vessels were at once surrounded by
+pirogues. The natives who manned them did not give La Perouse a very
+favourable idea of the beauty of the inhabitants.
+
+"I saw but two women," he says, "and they had no delicacy of feature;
+the younger, who may have been eighteen years of age, had a frightful
+ulcer upon her leg. Many of these islanders were covered with sores,
+which may have been the commencement of leprosy; for I noticed two men,
+whose ulcerated and swollen legs left no doubt as to their malady.
+They approached us fearlessly and unarmed, and appeared as peaceable
+as the natives of the Society or Friendly Islands."
+
+Upon the 9th of December anchor was cast off Maouna Island. Next day
+the weather was so promising that La Perouse resolved to land to take
+in water, and then set sail at once, as the anchorage was too bad to
+admit of a second night's stay. Every precaution having been taken, La
+Perouse landed, and proceeded to the spot where his sailors were
+obtaining water. Captain Langle penetrated to a small creek about a
+league from the watering place, "and this excursion, from which he
+returned delighted with the beauty of the village he had seen, was, as
+will be seen, the cause of our misfortunes."
+
+Upon the shore, meantime, a brisk trade was going on. Men and women
+sold hens, parrots, fruits, and pigs. At the same time a native,
+getting into one of the sloops, possessed himself of a hammer, and
+commenced dealing vigorous blows upon a sailor's back. He was speedily
+seized by four strong fellows, and thrown into the sea.
+
+La Perouse penetrated into the interior, accompanied by women, old men,
+and children. He enjoyed a delightful excursion through a charming
+country, which rejoiced in the double advantage of a soil which
+required no culture, and a climate in which clothing was superfluous.
+
+"Bread-fruits, cocoa-nuts, bananas, guavas, and oranges afforded a
+wholesome and sufficient nourishment to the inhabitants; while
+chickens, pigs, and dogs, which lived upon the surplus fruits,
+afforded the necessary change of diet.
+
+"The first visit passed over without serious danger. There were a few
+quarrels, it is true; but, thanks to the prudence and reserve of the
+French, who kept on their guard, they did not amount to anything
+serious. La Perouse had given orders to re-embark, when M. de Langle
+insisted upon sending for a few more casks of water.
+
+"He had adopted Captain Cook's views: he thought fresh water
+preferable to all other things which he had on board; and as some of
+his crew showed signs of scurvy, he was right in thinking that every
+help should be given them."
+
+La Perouse from the first had a presentiment against consenting. But
+he yielded when M. de Langle persisted that a captain is responsible
+for the health of his crew, that the spot which he named was perfectly
+safe, that he himself would command the expedition, and that three
+hours would suffice for the work.
+
+"M. de Langle," says the narrative, "was a man of so much judgment,
+that his representation influenced my decision more than anything else.
+
+"Next day two boats, under command of M. Boutin and M. Mouton,
+conveying all the sufferers from scurvy, under charge of six armed
+soldiers and a captain, in all twenty-eight men, left the _Astrolabe_,
+to be under M. de Langle's orders. M. de Langle was accompanied in his
+boat by M. de Lauranon and M. Collinet, who were invalids, and M. de
+Varignas, who was convalescent. M. de Gobien commanded the sloop, M.
+de la Martiniere, M. Lavant, and the elder Receveur, were amongst the
+thirty-three persons sent by the _Boussole_. The entire force amounted
+to sixty-one, and those the picked men of the expedition.
+
+"M. de Langle ordered every one to be armed with guns, and six
+swivel-guns were placed in the sloop. M. de Langle and all his
+companions were greatly surprised when, instead of a large and
+commodious bay, they found a creek filled with coral, which it was
+only possible to reach through a tortuous channel, where the surf
+broke violently. M. de Langle had only seen this bay at high tide, and
+as soon as this new sight met his view his first idea was to regain
+the former watering-place.
+
+"But the friendly appearance of the natives, the number of women and
+children he observed among them, the quantities of pigs and fruit they
+offered for sale, put his prudent resolutions to flight.
+
+"The water-casks of the four boats were landed quietly, the soldiers
+keeping order upon the shore, and forming a barrier which left a free
+space for the workers. But this peaceful condition of affairs did not
+last long. Many of the pirogues, having disposed of their wares to our
+vessels, returned to the shore, and, landing in the bay of our
+watering-place, it was soon entirely filled by them. In place of the
+two hundred natives, counting women and children, whom De Langle had
+found an hour and a half previously, there were now, at the end of
+three hours, a thousand or twelve hundred.
+
+"M. de Langle's situation became more perilous every moment. He
+succeeded, however, seconded by M. de Varignas, M. Boutin, M. Collier,
+and Gobien, in embarking the water-casks. But the bay was almost dry,
+and he could not hope to get his boats off before four o'clock in the
+afternoon. However, followed by his detachment, he attempted it, and,
+leading the way with his gun and the soldiers, he forbade firing until
+he should give the order.
+
+"He felt that he would soon be forced to fire. Already stones were
+flying; and the Indians who were in shallow water surrounded the
+sloops for a distance of at least two hundred yards. The soldiers who
+were already in the boats tried in vain to drive them back.
+
+"M. de Langle was anxious to avoid beginning hostilities, and fearful
+of being accused of barbarity; otherwise he would, no doubt, have
+ordered a general discharge, which would effectually have scattered
+the multitude. But he believed he could subdue the natives without
+bloodshed, and he was the victim of his humanity.
+
+"Very soon a storm of stones, thrown at short distances with the force
+of a sling, struck almost all who were in the sloop. M. de Langle had
+only time to discharge his gun. He was thrown over, and unfortunately
+fell outside the sloop. He was at once massacred by more than two
+hundred Indians, who assailed him with clubs and stones. As soon as he
+expired they fastened him by one arm to the sloop, no doubt with a
+view to despoiling the body.
+
+"The sloop of _La Boussole_, under M. Boutin, was run aground within
+four yards of that of the _Astrolabe_, and parallel between them was a
+narrow channel not yet occupied by the Indians. By this outlet, all
+the wounded who were fortunate enough to avoid falling into the open
+sea, escaped by swimming. They reached our boats, which fortunately
+had remained afloat, and we succeeded in saving forty-nine out of the
+sixty-one men who had composed the expedition.
+
+"M. Boutin had imitated M. de Langle. He would not fire, and only gave
+orders for a discharge after his commander's shot. Naturally, at the
+short distance of four or five paces, every shot killed an Indian; but
+there was no time to re-load. M. Boutin was knocked down by a stone,
+and fortunately fell between the two stranded boats. Those who had
+escaped by swimming towards the two boats had received many wounds,
+mostly on the head; whilst those who, less fortunate, had fallen
+overboard upon the side near the Indians, were killed instantaneously.
+
+"The safety of forty-nine of the crew is due to the good order which M.
+de Varignas was wise enough to maintain, and to the punctuality with
+which M. Mouton, who commanded the boats of the _Boussole_, carried
+out his orders.
+
+"The boat belonging to the _Astrolabe_ was so overloaded that it
+grounded. The natives at once decided to harass the wounded in their
+retreat. They hastened in great numbers towards the reefs, within six
+feet of which the boats must necessarily pass. The little ammunition
+which remained was exhausted upon these savages, and the boats at last
+emerged from the creek."
+
+La Perouse's first idea was naturally to avenge the death of his
+unfortunate companions; but M. de Boutin, who, although severely
+wounded, retained all his faculties, begged him to desist,
+representing to him that if by any mishap one of the boats ran aground,
+the creek was so situated, being bordered with trees which afforded
+secure shelter to the natives, that not a Frenchman would come back
+alive. La Perouse remained for two days upon the scene of this
+terrible disaster, without being able to gratify the vindictive
+desires of his crew.
+
+"No doubt," says La Perouse, "it will appear incredible that during
+this time five or six pirogues left the shore, bringing pigs, pigeons,
+and cocoa-nuts, and offering them in exchange. I was forced to control
+myself, or I should have disposed of these natives summarily enough."
+
+It may readily be supposed that an event which deprived La Perouse of
+a large number of officers, and of thirty-two of his best sailors, was
+calculated to upset the plans of the expedition. At the slightest
+approach of danger it would now be necessary to destroy one frigate,
+in order to arm the other. But one course remained for La Perouse--to
+set sail for Botany Bay, reconnoitring the various islands he passed,
+and taking their astronomical positions.
+
+Upon the 14th of December, Oyolava, another island belonging to the
+same group, and which Bougainville had seen from a distance, was
+sighted. It was larger than Tahiti, and exceeded that island in beauty,
+fertility, and in the number of its inhabitants.
+
+The natives resembled those of Maouna in every particular, and quickly
+surrounded the two frigates, offering the multifarious productions of
+their island. It appeared that the French must have been the first to
+trade with them, for they were quite unacquainted with the use or
+value of iron, and preferred a single coloured bead to a hatchet, or a
+nail six inches long.
+
+Some of the women had pleasant features and elegant figures; their
+eyes were gentle, and their movements quiet, whilst the men were wild
+and fierce in appearance.
+
+Pola Island, also belonging to the Navigator Archipelago, was passed
+upon the 17th of December. Probably the news of the massacre of the
+French had already reached this people, for no pirogue approached the
+vessels.
+
+Cocoa-nut Island and Schouten's Traitor Island were recognized upon
+the 20th of December. The latter is divided by a strait, which the
+navigators would not have perceived, had they not coasted close in
+shore. About a score of natives appeared, bringing the finest
+cocoa-nuts La Perouse had ever seen, with a few bananas and one small
+pig.
+
+These islands, which Wallis calls Boscawen and Keppel Islands, and
+which he places 1 degree 13 minutes too far west, may also be
+considered part of the Navigator Archipelago. La Perouse considers the
+natives of this group as belonging to the finest Polynesian race. Tall,
+vigorous, and well-formed, they are of finer type than those of the
+Sandwich Islands, whose language is very similar to theirs. Under
+other circumstances, the captain would have proceeded to explore
+Oyolava and Pola Islands; but the memory of the disaster at Maouna was
+too recent, and he dreaded another encounter which might end in
+massacre.
+
+"Painful associations," he says, "met us with every succeeding island.
+In the Recreation Islands, east of the Navigator Archipelago,
+Roggewein's crew had been attacked and stoned to death; at Traitor
+Island, which was now in sight, Schouten's crew were the victims; and
+in the south was Maouna Island, where we ourselves had met with so
+shocking a calamity.
+
+"These recollections affected our way of dealing with the Indians. We
+now punished every little theft and injustice severely; we
+demonstrated by force of arms that flight would not save them from our
+vengeance; we refused to allow them to come on board, and threatened
+to punish all who did so without permission with death."
+
+These remarks prove that La Perouse was right in preventing all
+intercourse between his crews and the natives. We cannot sufficiently
+praise the prudence and humanity of the commander who, in the excited
+condition of his men's minds, knew how to curb the desire for
+vengeance.
+
+From the Navigator Islands the route was directed to the Friendly
+Archipelago, which Cook had been unable to explore entirely. Upon the
+27th of December, Vavao Island was discovered, one of the largest of
+the group, which had not been visited by the English navigator. As
+large as Tonga Tabou, it is higher, and not wanting in fresh water. La
+Perouse reconnoitred many of these islands, and entered into relations
+with the natives, who, however, did not offer sufficient provisions to
+make it worth his while to trade. He therefore resolved upon the 1st
+of January, 1788, to go to Botany Bay, following a route not yet
+attempted by any navigator.
+
+Pilstaart Island, discovered by Tasman--or rather, the rock of
+Pilstaart, for its entire length is but a quarter of a
+league--presents but a steep and broken appearance, and serves only as
+a resting-place for sea birds. On this account La Perouse, having no
+reason for remaining, wished to hasten on to New Holland; but there
+was another power to be consulted--the wind, and by it La Perouse was
+detained for three days before Pilstaart.
+
+Norfolk Island and its two islets were sighted upon the 13th of
+January. La Perouse cast anchor within easy distance of shore,
+intending to allow the naturalists to land, and inspect the
+productions of the island; but the waves broke with such violence upon
+the beach that landing was impossible. Yet Cook had landed there with
+the greatest facility.
+
+An entire day was passed in vain attempts, and was quite unproductive
+of scientific results.
+
+Next day La Perouse started afresh, and upon entering the roadstead of
+Botany Bay encountered an English vessel, under command of Commodore
+Phillip, who was engaged in constructing Port Jackson, the embryo of
+that powerful colony which in our day, after only a quarter of a
+century's growth, has attained to such a height of civilization and
+prosperity.
+
+Here the journal kept by La Perouse terminates. A letter, written by
+him from Botany Bay, upon the 5th of February, to the Naval Minister,
+informs us that he intended building two sloops, to replace those
+which had been destroyed at Maouna. All his wounded, amongst them M.
+Lavaux, the surgeon of the _Astrolabe_, who had been trepanned, were
+perfectly recovered. M. de Clenard had assumed command of the
+_Astrolabe_, and had been succeeded upon the _Boussole_ by M. de Monti.
+
+In a letter of two days' later date, giving particulars of his
+intended route, La Perouse says,--
+
+"I shall regain the Friendly Islands, and carry out the instructions I
+have received with regard to the northern portion of New Caledonia, to
+Santa Cruz de Mendana, to the land south of the Arsacides of Surville,
+and to the Louisiade of Bougainville, and also ascertain, if possible,
+whether the latter constitutes a portion of New Guinea, or is a
+separate continent. At the end of July, 1788, I shall pass between New
+Guinea and New Holland by some other channel than the Endeavour; that
+is to say, if there be another. During September, and the early part
+of October, I propose to visit the Gulf of Carpentaria, and the
+eastern coast of New Holland, as far as Van Diemen's Land, so as to
+allow of my return to the north in time to arrive at Mauritius in the
+beginning of December, 1788."
+
+Not only did La Perouse fail to keep the rendezvous he himself
+appointed, but two entire years passed away, and no news whatever of
+his expedition were received.
+
+Although at that epoch France was passing through a terrible crisis,
+the interest of the public in the fate of La Perouse was so intense
+that it found vent in an appeal to the National Assembly from the
+members of the Society of Natural History in Paris. Upon the 9th of
+February, 1791, a decree was passed enjoining the fitting out of two
+or more armed vessels, to be sent in search of La Perouse. It was
+argued, that had shipwreck overtaken the expedition a number of the
+crews might still survive, and that it was only just to carry help to
+them as soon as possible. Men of science, naturalists, and draughtsmen,
+were to take part in the expedition, with the view to obtaining
+valuable information for navigation, geography, and commerce, as well
+as for the arts and sciences. Such were the terms of the decree to
+which we have alluded.
+
+The command of the expedition was entrusted to Vice-admiral Bruny
+d'Entrecasteaux, who had attracted the attention of government by his
+conduct in India. Two vessels, the _Recherche_, and the _Esperance_,
+the latter under the orders of M. Huon de Kermadec, ship's captain,
+were placed at his command. The staff of these vessels comprised many
+officers who later attained to high military positions. Amongst them
+were, Rossei, Willaumez, Trobriand, La Grandiere, Laignel, and Jurien.
+Amongst the men of science on board were, La Billardiere, naturalist,
+Bertrand and Pierson, astronomers, Ventenat and Riche, naturalists,
+Beautemps-Beaupre, hydrographer, and Jouveney, engineer.
+
+The vessels were stocked with provisions for eighteen months, and a
+quantity of merchandise, for trading purposes. Leaving Brest upon the
+28th of September, they reached Teneriffe upon the 13th of October. An
+ascent of the famous Peak followed as a matter of course. La
+Billardiere noticed a phenomenon which had already been observed by
+him in Asia Minor: his figure was reflected upon the clouds below him,
+opposite to the sun, in every colour of the rainbow.
+
+Upon the 23rd of October, the necessary provisions having been shipped,
+anchor was weighed, and the start made for the Cape. During the cruise,
+La Billardiere discovered that the phosphorescent appearance of the
+sea is caused by minute globular animalculi, floating in the waves.
+The voyage to the Cape, where the vessels arrived upon the 18th of
+January, 1792, was barren of incident, if we except the unusual
+quantity of bonitos, or tunny, and other fish that were met with, and
+a small leakage which occurred, but was quickly remedied.
+
+At the Cape, D'Entrecasteaux found a letter from M. de Saint Felix,
+commanding the French forces in India, which seemed likely to upset
+all his plans, and exercise an unfavourable influence upon the
+expedition. From this communication it appeared that two French
+captains, from Batavia, had stated that Commodore Hunter, in command
+of the English frigate _Syrius_, had seen, "near the Admiralty Islands,
+in the Pacific Ocean, men dressed in the European style, and in what
+he took to be French uniforms." "It is clear," wrote M. de Saint Felix,
+"that the commodore was convinced they were the remnants of La
+Perouse's company."
+
+When D'Entrecasteaux arrived at the Cape, Hunter was still in the
+roadstead; but within two hours of the arrival of the French vessels
+he weighed anchor. This conduct, appeared very strange. The commodore
+had had time to hear that the vessels just arrived were those sent in
+search of La Perouse, and yet he had made no communication to the
+commander upon the subject. But it was soon ascertained that Hunter
+had declared himself quite ignorant of the facts stated by M. de Saint
+Felix. Were they then to be regarded as unfounded? Incredible as M. de
+Saint Felix's communication appeared, D'Entrecasteaux could not
+suppose so.
+
+[Illustration: Portrait of D'Entrecasteaux. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+The naturalists had availed themselves of their stay at the Cape to
+make many excursions in the neighbourhood: La Billardiere had
+penetrated as far into the interior as the short stay of the frigates
+in the roadstead permitted.
+
+Anchor was weighed upon the 16th of February, and D'Entrecasteaux
+decided upon reaching the southern seas by doubling Cape Horn, and
+steered for the passage between St. Paul and Amsterdam Islands.
+Captain Valming had discovered these islands in 1696, and they had
+been recognized by Cook in his last voyage. When the _Recherche_ and
+the _Esperance_ passed St. Paul Island it was enveloped in a thick
+smoke, through which the summits of the mountains were visible. The
+forests were on fire.
+
+Upon the 21st of April the two vessels entered a bay upon the coast of
+Van Diemen's Land, which was supposed to be Adventure Bay, but which
+in reality was Storm Bay. The extreme point of this bay was named
+after D'Entrecasteaux. Wood was easily obtained there, and fish was
+very abundant. Amongst the magnificent trees of the country, La
+Billardiere mentions various species of the eucalyptus, the many uses
+of which were then unknown. The hunting-parties caught black swans and
+kangaroos, creatures also but little known.
+
+Upon the 16th of May the vessels left the port, and made for a strait,
+afterwards named after D'Entrecasteaux.
+
+"M. Creton and M. Auribeau," says the narrative, "were encouraged to
+land by the sight of fires close to the shore. They had gone but a
+short distance when they came upon four natives, attending to three
+small fires, by which they were seated. They took to flight on seeing
+the strangers, in spite of every friendly demonstration, leaving the
+lobsters and shell-fish which they had been broiling. As many huts as
+there were fires were close by.
+
+"One of the natives, in his hurry, left a small basket, full of pieces
+of silica, behind him. He was not afraid to return in search of it,
+but approached Creton with a bold air, possibly owing to his
+confidence in his own strength. Some of these savages were naked, and
+others wore only a kangaroo skin upon the shoulders. In colour they
+were nearly black; they had woolly hair, and allowed the beard to
+grow."
+
+[Illustration: "They came upon four natives."]
+
+Upon leaving D'Entrecasteaux Strait, the vessels proceeded to survey
+the south-western coast of New Caledonia, which La Perouse should have
+visited. A portion of Pine Island, which stretches to the north of
+that country, was the first to be recognized.
+
+The _Recherche_ narrowly escaped destruction upon the coral reefs
+which surround the coast, leaving only a narrow passage between them
+and the main land. At the northern extremity several mountainous
+islands and detached rocks were perceived, which rendered the
+navigation extremely dangerous. The navigators, grateful for their
+escape, named them the Entrecasteaux Reefs and Huon Islands.
+
+The survey of this perilous coast lasted from the 16th of June to the
+3rd of July. A true service was thus rendered to geographers and
+navigators, though it was, perhaps, the least profitable part of the
+voyage of discovery.
+
+As the favourable season was now approaching, D'Entrecasteaux
+determined to avail himself of it to reach the land of the Arsacides,
+which had been seen by Surville, and visited some years later by
+Shortland, who, imagining he was making a new discovery, named it New
+Georgia.
+
+"Upon the 9th of July," says La Billardiere, "towards half-past four
+o'clock, we perceived, about ten miles to the N.W., a rock called
+Eddystone. We took it at first, as Shortland had done, for a sailing
+vessel. The illusion was the greater, as in colour it much resembles
+the sails of a ship; a few shrubs crowned the summit. The land of the
+Arsacides, opposite this rock, is steep, and covered with large
+trees."
+
+After rectifying the position of Eddystone rocks, and that of the
+Treasury Islands--which are five in number, though so close together
+that Bougainville took them for one island--D'Entrecasteaux coasted
+Bougainville Island. It is separated from Bouka Island by a narrow
+strait, and is covered with plantations. It appeared to be well
+populated. Some trade was done with the natives, but nothing would
+induce them to venture on board the vessels.
+
+"The colour of their skins," says La Billardiere, "is nearly black.
+They are of medium height, and wear no clothes. They are muscular and
+strong. Although their features are not pleasant, they are very
+expressive. They have large heads, and broad foreheads. Their faces,
+especially in the lower part, are flat; they have thick chins, rather
+prominent cheek bones, flat noses, large mouths, and thin lips.
+
+"Their ugliness is increased by the colour with which the betel-nut
+stains their mouths. They appear very skilful in the use of bows and
+arrows. One of them brought a gannet which he had just killed, on
+board, and the hole made by the arrow could easily be seen.
+
+"These natives have bestowed particular attention upon their weapons,
+which are very well finished. We could not but admire the skill with
+which they coated the strings of their bows with resin, in such a way
+that at first sight they looked like catgut. The centre was protected
+with a piece of bark, to lessen the wear in projecting the arrows."
+
+The survey of the western coast of these two islands was completed
+upon the 15th of July. Bougainville had already surveyed the eastern
+shore.
+
+Next day the French navigators sighted first the island to which
+Carteret had given the name of Sir Charles Hardy, and then the south
+eastern extremity of New Ireland.
+
+The two vessels cast anchor in Carteret Bay, and the crews were
+established upon Cocoa Island. This island is covered with evergreen
+trees, which, in spite of the volcanic nature of the soil, grow
+vigorously.
+
+The cocoa-nuts from which it received its name were procured with
+difficulty. On the other hand, it afforded the naturalists so many
+varieties of plants and insects as to charm Billardiere.
+
+Rain fell abundantly during the stay; it was like a ceaseless torrent
+of tepid water.
+
+After obtaining the necessary wood and water, the _Recherche_ and
+_Esperance_ set sail from Port Carteret upon the 24th of July, 1792.
+In so doing the Esperance unfortunately lost an anchor, the cable
+having been cut by the coral reefs. The two vessels then entered St.
+George's Strait, which at the southern extremity is only about
+forty-two miles in width, about half the extent assigned to it by
+Carteret. The currents were so rapid that the ships were carried past
+Man and Sandwich Islands, without being able to stop.
+
+After sighting Portland Islands, low lands, seven in number, which
+stretch from 2 degrees 39 minutes 44 seconds S. lat. to 147 degrees 15
+minutes E. long., D'Entrecasteaux continued his route towards the
+Admiralty Islands, which he intended to visit. It was upon the most
+easterly of these islands that, according to the report received by
+Commodore Hunter, the natives wearing French naval uniforms had been
+seen.
+
+"The natives appeared in crowds," says the narrative. "Some ran along
+the shore, others, fixing their eyes upon our vessels, invited us by
+signs to land. The cries they uttered were intended to express their
+joy. At half-past one the vessels anchored, and a boat was despatched
+from each, containing articles for distribution among the natives of
+this small island. The frigates were so placed as to protect the boats
+as they neared the land, in the event of any attack by the savages,
+for our recollection of the treachery of the natives of the islands
+south of the Admiralty made us distrustful."
+
+The coast abounded in reefs; the boats could only approach within a
+hundred yards of the shore. Numbers of the natives crowded to the
+beach, and invited the French by signs to land.
+
+"One of the savages, distinguished by a double row of small shells
+upon his forehead, appeared to exercise a good deal of authority. He
+ordered one of the natives to jump into the water, and bring us some
+cocoa-nuts. Fearing to approach strangers swimming and defenceless, he
+hesitated for a moment. The chief, evidently quite unaccustomed to
+resistance to his wishes, followed up his command by blows from his
+club, and compelled obedience.
+
+"As soon as the islander returned to land, curiosity brought the
+natives around him in crowds. Each wished to participate in our
+presents. Pirogues were immediately launched, and many natives swam to
+the boats, which were shortly surrounded by quite a crowd. We were
+surprised that the violence of the surf upon the breakers did not
+intimidate them."
+
+Perhaps the French may have attempted that which the Indians
+accomplished. It seems probable that they would never have observed
+these people if the vessels, or at least a small boat, had not been
+wrecked in the archipelago.
+
+The only remark made by them is to the effect that the natives
+understood and appreciated the use of iron.
+
+D'Entrecasteaux then proceeded to reconnoitre the northern portion of
+the archipelago, and to trade with the natives. He did not land
+anywhere, and does not appear to have executed this part of his task
+with the minute care and attention which might have been expected of
+him.
+
+The _Recherche_ and the _Esperance_ afterwards visited the Hermit
+Islands, discovered in 1781 by a Spanish frigate, _La Princesa_. The
+natives, like all those they had encountered, showed a great desire to
+induce the strangers to land, but did not succeed in persuading them
+to do so.
+
+The Exchequer Islands, discovered by Bougainville, several unknown low
+islands, covered with luxuriant vegetation, Schouten Island, and the
+coast of New Guinea, were successively sighted. In the interior of the
+last-named a large chain of mountains was distinguished, the loftiest
+of which appeared at least three thousand five hundred feet high.
+
+After coasting this large island, the _Recherche_ and the _Esperance_
+entered Pitt Strait to reach the Moluccas.
+
+Upon the 5th of September, 1792, the French joyfully anchored in the
+roadstead of Amboyna. There were many sufferers from scurvy on board,
+and officers and crew alike needed a lengthened rest. The naturalists,
+astronomers, and other scientific men immediately landed, and took the
+necessary steps for the prosecution of their various observations. The
+naturalists were particularly successful in acquiring new facts. La
+Billardiere congratulates himself upon the multiplicity of new plants
+and animals that he was able to obtain.
+
+"Once when upon the shore," he says, "I heard what appeared to be wind
+instruments, the tones now harmonious, now discordant, yet never
+unpleasing. These harmonious and distinct sounds appeared to come from
+a distance, and I imagined the natives were making music some six or
+seven miles beyond the roadstead. But my ear deceived me, for I found
+that I was not a hundred yards from the instrument. A bamboo cane, at
+least sixty feet high, was fixed vertically upon the shore. At each
+notch a slit had been made, about two and a half inches long and one
+and a quarter broad. These slits made so many openings for the wind,
+which, passing through them, produced varied and pleasant sounds. As
+the notches in this cane were very numerous, the slits had been made
+all round, so that whichever way the wind blew it went through some of
+them. I can only compare the sound of this instrument to that of an
+harmonium."
+
+During this long stay of a month in one place the vessels were well
+caulked, the sails and rigging attended to, and every precaution taken
+for a voyage in tropical and damp climates.
+
+A few details on the roadstead of Amboyna, and the manners and customs
+of the native population, will not be out of place.
+
+"Amboyna roadstead," says La Billardiere, "forms a channel some
+thirteen or fourteen miles in length, and about two and a half miles
+in breadth. It affords good anchorage, although the bottom is partly
+of coral.
+
+"The fort, called Victory Fort, is built of bricks; the governor and
+some of the members of government reside there. It was at this time
+falling into ruins, and every discharge of cannon did evident damage.
+
+"The garrison consisted of about two hundred men, of which the natives
+of the island composed a considerable part; the remainder consisted of
+a few retired European soldiers and a small detachment of a Wurtemberg
+regiment.
+
+"The mortality amongst officers living in the Indies makes the lives
+of those who have been some time in the climate precious; the Dutch
+Company is therefore seldom true to its promise to allow them to
+return to Europe at the expiration of their time of service. I met
+with several of these unfortunate men who had been detained for more
+than twenty years, when, according to agreement, they ought to have
+been freed long before.
+
+"The language of the natives of Amboyna is Malay. It is very soft and
+musical. The country produces spices, coffee, which is inferior to
+that of Reunion Island, and sago; the latter is largely cultivated in
+the marshy districts.
+
+"The rice consumed at Amboyna is not indigenous to the soil, but still
+it might be successfully cultivated in the low lands. The Dutch
+Company, however, prohibit the growth of this article of commerce,
+because its sale enables them to keep back a part of the sum which
+they are obliged to pay for cloves furnished by the blacks. They thus
+prevent the increase of pay, and obtain the fruits of native labour at
+a moderate price.
+
+"Thus the company, consulting their own interest only, discourage all
+industry in the population, by forcing them, as it were, to relinquish
+everything but the cultivation of spices.
+
+"The Dutch are careful to limit the cultivation of spices within the
+compass of ordinary consumption. Their efforts, which are destructive
+of all enterprise, chime in with the _nonchalant_ character of the
+natives."
+
+On the 23rd of "Vendemiaire"[1] of the year 1, if we conform to the
+new style, as Bougainville does, the two vessels left Amboyna, amply
+provisioned with fowls, ducks, geese, pigs, goats, potatoes, yams,
+bananas, and pumpkins. Meat, however, they obtained in but small
+quantities, the flour was of a bad quality, and the sailors could
+never accustom themselves to the sago which was shipped in its stead;
+bamboos, cloves, and arrack may be added to the list of shipments.
+
+[Footnote 1: First month of the Republican calendar.]
+
+"Young bamboo shoots, cut in slices, and preserved in vinegar," says
+La Billardiere, "made an excellent store for a long voyage. These
+young shoots are generally very tender. They are gathered early, and
+sold in the market as vegetables, for which they are a good substitute.
+They are often a yard long, and half an inch thick.
+
+"These young bamboo shoots are much appreciated by the Chinese, who
+think them similar to asparagus in flavour.
+
+"We were also provided with cloves and nutmegs preserved in sugar. The
+shell of the nutmeg is the only edible portion; unfortunately,
+ignorant preservers had chosen full-grown nutmegs. Cloves, when once
+as large as ordinary olives, retain too much flavour to be a pleasant
+sweetmeat. One must be endowed with an Indian palate to enjoy them. I
+might say the same of our ginger preserves.
+
+"The only spirituous liquor obtainable was arrack, several casks of
+which were bought. Many travellers have spoken in praise of this
+liquor, which is, in reality, not equal to the poorest brandy."
+
+Upon leaving Amboyna, the expedition sailed for the south-west coast
+of Australia. Shortly afterwards, Kisser Island, the north shore of
+Timor, Baton Island, and the delightful Sauva Island, were
+successively passed; and finally, upon the 16th "Frimaire," the
+western extremity of the south-western coast of New Holland, which was
+discovered by Leuwin in 1622, was sighted.
+
+The coast presented a succession of sandy dunes, in the midst of which
+arose pointed rocks, apparently utterly sterile. Navigation upon this
+unsheltered coast was extremely dangerous. The sea ran high, the wind
+was boisterous, and it was necessary to steer amongst the breakers.
+During a strong gale the _Esperance_ was nearly driven upon the coast,
+when one of the officers fortunately distinguished from the main-mast
+an anchorage, where, he declared, the ships would be in safety.
+
+"The safety of the two ships," says the narrative, "was due to this
+discovery, for the _Recherche_, after battling as long as she could
+against the storm, had been forced to tack about all night amidst
+these perilous breakers, hoping for a change of wind which would make
+it possible for her to reach the open sea, and must infallibly have
+perished. This bay, named Legrand, after the able seaman who first
+discovered it, will always recall his invaluable service to the
+expedition."
+
+The islets surrounding this coast were reconnoitred by the navigators.
+A geographical engineer, named Riche, belonging to the _Recherche_,
+landing upon the mainland to make observations, lost his way, and only
+reached the vessels after two days' absence, nearly dead of fatigue
+and hunger.
+
+This small archipelago concluded the discoveries of Nuyts.
+
+"We were surprised," says La Billardiere, "at the exactitude with
+which the latitude had been determined by this navigator, at a time
+when instruments were very imperfect. The same remark applies to
+nearly all Leuwin's discoveries in this region."
+
+Upon the 15th Nivose[2] 31 degrees 52 minutes lat. and 129 degrees 16
+minutes E. long., Captain Huon de Kermadec informed D'Entrecasteaux
+that his rudder was injured, that he was obliged to limit his crew to
+three quarters of a bottle of water per day, that he had been forced
+to discontinue the distribution of anti-scorbutic drinks, and that he
+had only thirty casks of water remaining. The _Recherche_ was hardly
+in better case. D'Entrecasteaux accordingly made for Cape Dieman,
+after navigating for about six hundred and seventy miles along a
+barren coast, which offered no object of interest or value.
+
+[Footnote 2: Fourth month of the Republican calendar, from 21st
+December to 21st January.]
+
+Upon the 3rd Pluviose,[3] the vessels anchored in the Bay of Rocks, in
+Tempest Bay, which they had visited the preceding year. This spot was
+very rich in points of interest. La Billardiere was amazed at the
+varied products of this portion of Van Diemen's Land, and was never
+tired of admiring the vast forests of gigantic trees, and the many
+unknown shrubs and plants, through which he had to force his way.
+During one of his numerous excursions he picked up some fine pieces of
+beautiful bronze red haematite, and further on some earth containing
+ochre, of so bright a red as to denote the presence of iron. He soon
+encountered some natives, and his remarks upon this race, which is now
+quite extinct, are interesting enough for repetition; moreover, they
+complete the particulars already given by Captain Cook.
+
+[Footnote 3: Fifth month of the Republican calendar, from 20th January
+to 20th February.]
+
+He says, "There were about forty-two natives; seven grown men, and
+eight women, the others appeared to be their children; many of them
+were girls already arrived at maturity, who were even more lightly
+clad than their mothers. They have woolly hair, and the men let their
+beards grow long. In the children the upper jaw projects, but in
+adults it is about even with the lower. No doubt these people consider
+it a beauty to be black; for, not being very dark to begin with, they
+powder the upper part of the body with coal dust.
+
+"We noticed rows of spots on the skin, especially of the shoulders and
+breast, now in lines above three inches long, now in equidistant dots.
+These people do not appear to observe the custom which many travellers
+have thought to be universal amongst their tribes, of extracting the
+incisor teeth, for we saw no native with any missing from the upper
+jaw, and they all had very fine, strong teeth. These people swarm with
+vermin. We could not but admire the patience of a woman, whom we
+watched freeing her child of them; nor could we avoid feeling shocked
+when she crushed the disgusting insects with her teeth, and then
+swallowed them. Monkeys have the same habit!
+
+"The young children greatly admired everything shining, and they did
+not hesitate to take the metal buttons off our coats. I must not omit
+to mention a trick played upon a sailor by a young savage. The man had
+collected a number of shells, and left them in a bag at the foot of a
+rock. The native furtively removed them, and allowed the sailor to
+search for them vainly for some time; then quietly replacing them, he
+seemed much amused at the trick he had played."
+
+Early in the morning of the 26th Pluviose the two vessels weighed
+anchor, entered D'Entrecasteaux Strait, and, on the 5th of Ventose,[4]
+anchored in Adventure Bay. After a stay of five days, spent in taking
+observations, D'Entrecasteaux set sail for New Zealand, and reached
+its southern extremity. After an interview with the natives, too short
+to admit of additions being made to the many and precise observations
+of Captain Cook, D'Entrecasteaux started for the Friendly Islands,
+which La Perouse had intended visiting. He anchored in Tonga Tabou Bay.
+The vessels were at once surrounded by a crowd of pirogues, and
+literally boarded by the natives, who came to sell pigs and every
+variety of fruit.
+
+[Footnote 4: Fifth month of French Republican calendar.]
+
+One of the sons of Poulao, the king Cook had known, received the
+navigators cordially, and scrupulously superintended the trade with
+the islanders. This was no easy task, for they developed surprising
+talents for stealing everything which came in their way.
+
+La Billardiere describes rather a good joke of which he was the victim.
+He was followed to the provision tent by two natives, whom he took to
+be chiefs.
+
+"One of them," he says, "was very anxious to choose the best fruits
+for me. I had placed my hat on the ground, thinking it safe there; but
+these two rogues understood their business. The one behind me was
+clever enough to hide my hat under his clothes, and was off before I
+perceived the theft; the other speedily followed. I was the more
+surprised at this attempt, because I should have supposed they would
+not have had the courage to steal so large an object, running the risk
+of being caught, in the enclosure to which we had admitted them.
+Moreover, a hat could not be a very useful article to these people,
+who generally go bare-headed. Their dexterity in robbing me, convinced
+me that it was by no means their first attempt."
+
+The French entered into relations with a chief named Finau, probably
+the same who is mentioned as Finauo in Captain Cook's voyage, and who
+called him Toute. But he was only a secondary chief. The real king,
+supreme chief of Tonga Tabou, Vavao, and of Annamooka, was named
+Toubau. He visited the ships, and brought back a gun which had been
+stolen a day or two previously from a sentinel. He presented
+D'Entrecasteaux with two pieces of stuff made from the bark of the
+mulberry-tree, so large that if opened out either would have covered
+the vessel. In exchange for mats and pigs he received a fine hatchet
+and a general's red coat, which he immediately put on.
+
+Two days later, an extraordinarily stout female, at least fifty years
+of age, and to whom the natives paid great respect, came on board.
+This was Queen Tina. She tasted everything that was offered to her,
+but preferred preserved bananas. The steward stood behind her chair,
+and waited to clear away, but she saved him the trouble by
+appropriating the plate and napkin.
+
+King Toubau was anxious to give an entertainment to D'Entrecasteaux.
+The admiral was received upon landing by two chiefs, Finau and Omalai,
+and conducted by them to an extensive esplanade. Toubau arrived with
+his two daughters. They had sprinkled a quantity of cocoa-nut oil upon
+their heads, and each wore a necklace made of the pretty seeds of the
+_arbus peccatorius_.
+
+"The natives," says the narrative, "arrived from all parts in great
+crowds; we estimated that the number amounted to at least four
+thousand.
+
+"The seat of honour was evidently to the left of the king, for he
+invited D'Entrecasteaux to take his place there. The captain then
+offered the presents he had brought for the king which were gratefully
+accepted. A piece of crimson damask excited the most vivid admiration
+from all the assembled natives. 'Eho! Eho!' they exclaimed repeatedly,
+in accents of the greatest surprise. They uttered the same admiring
+cry when we unfolded some pieces of coloured ribbon, in which red
+predominated. The captain then presented a couple of goats, and a pair
+of rabbits, of which the king promised to take every care.
+D'Entrecasteaux also bestowed various presents upon Toubau's son
+Omalai, and several other chiefs.
+
+"To our right, on the north-east, under a shady bread-fruit tree laden
+with fruit, thirteen musicians were seated, who sang together in
+different parts. Four of the musicians played the accompaniment by
+striking bamboo canes, yard and a yard and a half long, upon the
+ground, the holder of the longest bamboo occasionally acting as
+conductor. These bamboo canes emitted a sound not unlike that of a
+tambourine, and they were arranged in the following order. The two
+medium-sized canes were in unison, the longest a tone and a half lower,
+and the shortest two tones and a half higher. The voice of the alto
+was heard far above all the others, although he was a little hoarse;
+he accompanied himself by striking with two little sticks upon a
+bamboo cane, some six yards long, and split throughout its entire
+length. Three musicians stationed in front of the others appeared to
+explain the song by gestures, which had apparently been well studied,
+as they all acted in unison. Occasionally gracefully moving their arms,
+they turned towards the king; whilst sometimes they suddenly sunk
+their heads upon their breasts, and as suddenly tossed them back.
+
+"After these entertainments Toubau offered the captain several pieces
+of stuff made from the bark of the mulberry-tree. He had them unrolled
+with great ostentation, that we might fully appreciate the value of
+his gift. The minister seated upon his left ordered the preparation of
+'kava,' which was soon brought in an oval-shaped wooden vase, about
+three feet long.
+
+"The musicians had reserved their best pieces for this moment, for at
+each succeeding effort we heard applauding cries of 'Mali, Mali;' and
+it was evident that the music had an agreeable and inspiriting effect
+upon the natives. The 'kava' was then offered to the various chiefs by
+those who had prepared it."
+
+This concert, it will be seen, was by no means equal to the splendid
+entertainment which had been given to Captain Cook.
+
+[Illustration: Fete in honour of D'Entrecasteaux at the Friendly
+Islands. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+Queen Tina followed it up by giving a grand ball, which was preceded
+by a concert, fully attended by the natives, amongst whom, we may
+incidentally mention, were numbers of thieves, who became so bold that
+they ended by forcibly taking possession of a cutlas. As the
+blacksmith of the _Recherche_ pursued the thieves, they turned, and
+seeing him alone, struck him on the head with a club. Fortunately his
+danger was perceived by those on board the _Esperance_, and a
+well-directed shot dispersed his assaillants. Several natives were
+killed upon this occasion by the officers and sailors, who, not seeing
+exactly what had happened, treated all the islanders they met as
+dangerous. Fortunately, concord was soon restored; and the relations
+were so friendly when the time came for the French to leave, that many
+of the natives begged to accompany them to France.
+
+"The intelligent account which these islanders gave of the vessels
+which had anchored in this archipelago," says the narrative,
+"convinced us that La Perouse had not visited any of these islands.
+They remembered perfectly every occasion upon which they had seen
+Captain Cook, and they indicated the intervals between his visits by
+the crops of yams, reckoning two in each year."
+
+It is true that their information, as far as it related to La Perouse,
+was in direct contradiction to the facts which Dumont-Durville
+collected thirty-six years later, when Tamaha was queen.
+
+"I was anxious to know," he says, "if any Europeans had visited Tonga
+between Cook and D'Entrecasteaux. After a few moments' reflection, she
+explained to me very clearly that a few years before D'Entrecasteaux's
+visit, two large vessels, like his in every respect, carrying guns and
+many Europeans, had anchored off Annamooka, and remained there six
+days. They showed a white flag, quite unlike the English one. The
+strangers had been very friendly with the natives, and had had a house
+on the island and entered into trade. She related that a native who
+had agreed to exchange a wooden bolster for a knife, was shot by an
+officer because he wanted to take back his merchandise when he had
+been paid for it. However, the incident had not broken the peace,
+because in that instance the native was in the wrong."
+
+Although it is impossible to suspect Dumont-Durville of any attempt at
+imposition, many portions of this circumstantial account bear the
+impress of truth, more especially that relating to the flag, as being
+different to that of the English. Must we then charge D'Entrecasteaux
+with want of thoroughness in his work? This would be a very serious
+charge. Yet two circumstances, which we shall presently relate, appear
+to point to that conclusion.
+
+The natives witnessed the departure of the French with keen regret.
+The expedition left upon the 21st Germinal,[5] and six days later the
+_Esperance_ signalled Erronan, the most easterly of the islands of
+Santo Espiritu, discovered by Quiros in 1660. Beyond this Annatom,
+Tanna, with its volcano in constant eruption, and the
+Beautemps-Beaupre Islands were passed. Carried onwards by the currents,
+the vessels were soon in sight of the mountains of New Caledonia, and
+anchored in Balade harbour, where Captain Cook had cast anchor in 1774.
+
+[Footnote 5: Seventh month of the Republican calendar, from 21st March
+to 19th April.]
+
+The natives were acquainted with the use of iron, but they did not
+appear to value it as highly as others had done, probably because the
+stones they used instead were very hard and answered admirably for
+their purposes. Their first demand upon going on board was for
+something to eat; and their need was unmistakable, for they pointed to
+their manifestly empty stomachs. Captain Cook had already remarked
+that they managed their pirogues, which were far less ingeniously
+constructed than those of the Friendly Islands, unskilfully. The
+greater number of these natives had woolly hair, and skins almost as
+black as those of the inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land. Their weapons
+were assegais and clubs; and in addition to these they carried at the
+waist a little bag, full of the oval stones which they throw from
+their slings.
+
+[Illustration: Typical native of New Holland. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+After a short excursion inland, during which they visited the huts of
+the natives, which were shaped like beehives, the officers and
+naturalists prepared to re-embark.
+
+"Upon returning to our boat," says the narrative, "we found more than
+seven hundred natives, who had assembled from all directions. They
+began by demanding stuffs and iron in exchange for their wares, and
+soon some of them proved themselves arrant thieves.
+
+"I will mention one of their many manoeuvres. A man offered to sell me
+the little bag of stones which he carried at his waist. He unfastened
+it, and pretended to offer it to me in one hand, whilst he held out
+the other for the price upon which we had agreed. But at the same
+moment another native, who had taken up his stand behind me, uttered a
+shrill scream, which made me turn my head in his direction, whereupon
+the rogue made off with his bag, and hid himself in the crowd. We were
+unwilling to punish him, although most of us carried our guns.
+
+"Unfortunately our leniency might be regarded as a proof of our
+weakness, and so add to the native insolence; and an incident which
+shortly occurred indicates this was so.
+
+"Some natives were bold enough to throw stones at an officer who was
+only about two hundred paces away from us. We were still unwilling to
+act harshly, as we had heard so much in their favour from Forster's
+narrative, and had such confidence in their good will that still more
+evidence was required to convince us of their real character.
+
+"One of them, who was enjoying a broiled bone, and busily devouring
+the meat which still clung to it, offered a share of his meal to a
+sailor named Piron. He, thinking it to be the bone of some animal,
+accepted it, but before eating it showed it to me. I at once
+recognized that it had belonged to the body of a child, of probably
+fourteen or fifteen years of age. The natives crowding round us,
+showed us upon a living child the position of the bone, owning without
+hesitation that the man had been making his meal off it, and giving us
+to understand that it was a great delicacy.
+
+"Those of our company who had remained on board, could hardly credit
+our account of this disgusting fact. They refused to believe that a
+people who had been so differently described by Captain Cook and
+Captain Forster could be capable of so degrading a practice, but the
+most incredulous were soon convinced. I had retained possession of the
+gnawed bone, and our surgeon at once recognized it as that of a child.
+To make still more sure of the cannibalism of the natives, I offered
+it to one of them. He seized it eagerly, and tore the remaining flesh
+from it with his teeth; after he had done with it, I passed it to
+another, who still found something upon it to relish."
+
+[Illustration: Natives of New Caledonia.]
+
+The natives who visited the vessel, committed so many thefts, and
+became so impudent, that we were forced to drive them away. Upon
+landing next day, the French found the natives feasting.
+
+They immediately offered a share of their meal to the strangers. It
+proved to be human flesh recently cooked.
+
+Many of them even came close up to the French and felt the muscles of
+their arms and legs, uttering the word Karapek, with an expression of
+admiration and longing which was anything but reassuring.
+
+Many of the officers were assaulted and robbed with the greatest
+effrontery. There remained no doubt of the intentions of the natives.
+They even attempted to possess themselves of the hatchets the sailors
+had brought on shore to cut wood, and were only made to desist by
+being fired upon.
+
+These constantly recurring hostilities always ended in the repulse of
+the natives, many of whom were killed or wounded. But in spite of the
+repulses they met with, they let no favourable opportunity pass of
+recommencing their attacks.
+
+La Billardiere was witness to a fact which has since been frequently
+observed, but was long disbelieved. He saw the natives eating steatite.
+This mineral substance serves to deaden the sense of hunger, by
+filling the stomach and sustaining the viscera of the diaphragm, and
+although it contains no nourishment whatever, it is useful to them,
+because they have long periods when food is scarcely procurable, as
+they bestow very little cultivation upon their land, which is
+naturally very sterile. Yet, one would scarcely have expected hungry
+cannibals to resort to such an expedient.
+
+No news of La Perouse had been obtained during the stay in New
+Caledonia. But M. Jules Garnier states that a tradition exists of the
+appearance of two large ships, which had sent boats on shore, near the
+northern extremity of Pine Island.
+
+"After the first alarm," says M. Jules Garnier, in a communication
+which appeared in the "Bulletin de la Societe de Geographie" for
+November, 1869, "the natives approached the strangers and fraternized
+with them; they were quite astonished at their riches, and their
+cupidity induced them to oppose the departure of the French sailors by
+force; but their ardour was moderated by a volley which killed a few
+of them. Little pleased with their reception, the French vessels
+proceeded to the mainland, after letting off a cannon, which the
+natives took to be a clap of thunder."
+
+It is strange that D'Entrecasteaux, who entered into communications
+with the natives of Pine Island, should have heard nothing of these
+events. The island is small, and its population has always been scanty.
+The natives must have kept secret the fact of their dealings with La
+Perouse.
+
+Had D'Entrecasteaux, in his navigation among the coral reefs which
+protect the eastern coast of New Caledonia, succeeded in entering one
+of the many openings he met with, he might have found some trace of
+the course taken by La Perouse, who was a careful navigator, and
+anxious to emulate Cook, who had touched at several points of that
+coast. A whaler, whose account is quoted by Rienzi, declared that he
+had seen medals and a cross of St. Louis, relics of the French
+expedition, in possession of the natives of New Caledonia.
+
+M. Jules Garnier, during a voyage from Noumea to Canala, in March,
+1865, observed in the hand of one of their native escort, "an old
+rusty sword, in the fashion of the last century," which bore the
+impression of the "fleur-de-lys." He could obtain no account of it
+from its possessor, except that he had had it a long time.
+
+There is no evidence that any member of the expedition gave a sword,
+still less a cross of the order of St. Louis, to a savage. No doubt an
+officer had fallen in some encounter, and thus these articles had come
+into native hands.
+
+This hypothesis accords with M. Garnier's explanation of the
+contradictory accounts given by Cook and D'Entrecasteaux of the people
+of Balade. According to the former, they are peaceable, honest, and
+friendly; according to the latter, they are robbers, traitors, and
+cannibals. M. Jules Garnier suggests that some extraordinary event
+must have changed the disposition of the natives between the two
+visits. Most likely an encounter had taken place. The Europeans may
+have been driven to the use of arms: they may possibly have destroyed
+plantations and burnt huts. In such a case their hostile reception of
+D'Entrecasteaux would be explicable.
+
+La Billardiere, in his account of an excursion to the mountains
+forming the water-shed of the northern extremity of New Caledonia, and
+from which the sea can be seen on either side, says,--
+
+"We were followed by three natives, who had no doubt seen us a year
+previously, when we coasted the eastern shores of their island, for
+before they left us they spoke of two ships which they had seen upon
+that coast."
+
+La Billardiere ought to have pressed the natives upon this subject.
+Were the vessels seen by them those of La Perouse or of
+D'Entrecasteaux: and was it really "a year previously"?
+
+From these details we see how much it is to be regretted that
+D'Entrecasteaux did not pursue his investigations more zealously. No
+doubt, had he done so, he would have found traces of his
+fellow-countrymen. We shall shortly see, that with a little
+perseverance he would have found some at least, if not all of them
+alive.
+
+During the stay in this port Captain Huon de Kermadec succumbed to a
+hectic fever from which he had long been suffering. He was succeeded
+in the command of the _Esperance_ by M. D'Hesminy d'Auribeau.
+
+Leaving New Caledonia upon the 21st Floreal,[6] D'Entrecasteaux
+sighted successively Moulin and Huon Islands, and Santa Cruz de
+Mendana, which is separated from New Jersey by a strait, in which the
+French vessels were attacked by the natives.
+
+[Footnote 6: Eighth month of the Republican calendar, from 18th April
+to 20th May.]
+
+To the south-east D'Entrecasteaux observed an island, which he named
+after the _Recherche_, and which he might have called Discovery if he
+had approached it. It was Vanikoro, an islet surrounded by coral reefs,
+upon which La Perouse's vessels had been wrecked, and which at this
+time, in all probability, was inhabited by some of the unfortunate
+seamen. It was most unfortunate to be so near success, and yet to miss
+it! But the veil which hid the fate of La Perouse and his companions
+was not destined to be removed for a long time yet.
+
+After surveying the northern extremities of Santa Cruz, without any
+result so far as the object of his expedition was concerned,
+D'Entrecasteaux directed his course to De Surville's Land of the
+Arsacides. He reconnoitred the northern coast, and thence reached the
+shores of Lousiade, which La Perouse had announced his intention of
+visiting when he left Salomon Island, and surveyed Cape Deliverance.
+Bougainville was wrong in supposing that this cape belonged to New
+Guinea; it is the extreme point of an island, called Rossel after one
+of the officers who has given an account of the expedition.
+
+After coasting along a series of low and rocky islands, which were
+named after the principal officers, the vessels reached Cape William,
+on the coast of New Guinea. They then directed their course to
+Dampier's Strait. After sailing along the northern coast of New
+Britain, several small and mountainous islands, hitherto unknown, were
+discovered. Upon the 17th of July a small island in the neighbourhood
+of the Anchorite Islands was sighted.
+
+D'Entrecasteaux had long been suffering from dysentery and scurvy, and
+was in extreme danger. Following the advice of his officers, he
+decided to take leave of the _Esperance_, and endeavoured to reach
+Waihoun more quickly. Upon the 20th of July he sunk under long and
+protracted sufferings. After a stay at Waihoun and Bouro Islands, at
+which latter place the President overwhelmed the French with
+civilities, and where Bougainville was still remembered by the natives,
+the expedition left, under command of D'Auribeau. He also
+unfortunately fell ill, and the command was transferred to Rossel,
+under whose orders the vessels passed first Boutong, and then Saleyer
+Straits, and reached Sourabaya upon the 19th of October.
+
+[Illustration: View of the Island of Bouron.]
+
+Sad news here awaited the members of the expedition. Louis XVI. had
+been beheaded. France was at war with Holland and all the European
+powers. Although both the _Recherche_ and the _Esperance_ needed many
+repairs, and the health of the crews needed repose, D'Auribeau was
+about to start for Mauritius, when he was detained by the Dutch
+governor. Fearing that the news from Europe, affecting as it did the
+various members of the expedition so differently, might lead to
+disaffection in his colony, he subjected his "prisoners," as he called
+the French, to most humiliating conditions, which they could not
+escape. Irritation and hatred were rampant, when it occurred to
+D'Auribeau to unfurl the white flag. However, the greater part of the
+officers and men of science, amongst them Billardiere, obstinately
+refused to respect the conditions imposed; and being arrested by order
+of the Dutch authorities, were distributed throughout the different
+ports of the colony.
+
+After the death of D'Auribeau, which occurred upon the 21st of Aug.,
+1794, Rossel became head of the expedition. He undertook to convey all
+documents of every kind collected during the voyage to France; but
+being taken prisoner by an English frigate, he was deprived of his
+property, in defiance of justice; and when France obtained the objects
+of natural history, of which she had been robbed--the expression is
+not too strong when we recall the instructions given by the French
+government with regard to Captain Cook's expedition--they were in so
+bad a condition that they had lost much of their value.
+
+Thus ended this unfortunate expedition. Although its principal object
+had not been attained, it had at least resulted in some geographical
+discoveries; it had completed or rectified those made by preceding
+navigators; and to it, especially to the exertions of La Billardiere,
+are due the acquisition of an immense number of facts in natural
+history.
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+Captain Marchand's voyage--The Marquesas--Discovery of Nouka-Hiva--
+Manners and customs of the inhabitants--Revolution Islands--The coast
+of America and Tchinkitane Port--Cox Strait--Stay at the Sandwich
+Islands--Macao--Disappointment--Return to France--Discoveries made by
+Bass and Flinders upon the Australian coast--Captain Baudin's
+expedition--Endracht and De Witt Islands--Stay at Timor--Survey of Van
+Diemen's Land--Separation between the _Geographe_ and the
+_Naturaliste_--Stay at Port Jackson--Convicts--Agricultural wealth of
+New South Wales--Return of the _Naturaliste_ to France--Cruise of the
+_Geographe_ and of the _Casuarina_ to the Islands of Nuyts, Edels,
+Endracht, and De Witt--Second stay at Timor--Return to France.
+
+
+Etienne Marchand, a captain in the merchant service, returning to
+France from Bengal in 1788, met with the English Captain Portlock in
+the roadstead of St. Helena. Their conversation naturally fell upon
+commerce, and the value of various articles of trade. Like a sensible
+man, Marchand allowed his companion to talk, and only put in a few
+words himself now and again, and thus drew from Portlock the
+interesting information that furs, and more especially otter skins,
+which could be obtained for a mere trifle upon the eastern coast of
+North America, realized an enormous price in China; whilst at the same
+time a cargo brought from the Celestial Empire would return a large
+profit in Europe.
+
+Upon arriving in France, Marchand communicated what he had learned to
+his ship-owners, MM. Baux of Marseilles, and they at once resolved to
+act upon the knowledge he had obtained. Navigation in the Pacific
+Ocean required a ship of special strength and excellence. MM. Baux
+ordered the construction of a vessel of 300 tons' burden, plated with
+copper, and provided with every necessary for defence in case of
+attack, and for repairs in the event of accident, and also with
+everything likely to promote trade and to ensure the health of the
+crews during a voyage of three or four years.
+
+Two captains, MM. Masse and Prosper Chanal, were associated with
+Marchand in the command of the expedition, and the rest of the party
+consisted of three lieutenants, two surgeons, three volunteers, and a
+crew of thirty-nine seamen. Four cannon, two howitzers, four swivel
+guns, with the needful ammunition, &c., formed the equipment.
+
+Although the vessel was only to reach Cape Horn at the beginning of
+winter, the _Solide_ left Marseilles upon the 14th of December, 1790.
+After a short stay at Praya, Cape Verde Islands, Marchand proceeded to
+Staten Island, which he reached upon the 1st of April, 1791. He then
+doubled Tierra del Fuego, and entered the Pacific. His intention was
+to proceed immediately to the north-western coast of America, but at
+the beginning of May the water on board was already so tainted that he
+required a fresh supply.
+
+Under these circumstances, the captain decided to reach the Marquesas
+Islands of Mendoza which are situated in S. lat. 6 degrees, and near
+141 degrees west of the Paris meridian.
+
+"The situation of these islands," says Fleurien, who published an
+interesting account of this voyage, "was the more suitable for his
+purpose, because with a view to escaping the calms often met with in
+too easterly a course, he had resolved to cross the line at 142
+degrees west longitude."
+
+This group of islands had been discovered in 1595 by Mendoza, and
+visited by Cook in 1774. Magdalena Island, the most southerly of the
+group, was reached upon the 12th of June.
+
+The captain, and his associate Chanal, had calculated with such
+precision, that the _Solide_ anchored off the Mendoza Islands, after a
+cruise of seventy-three days from the time of leaving Staten Island,
+without having noticed any land whatever. Constant astronomical
+observations alone ensured the safety of the vessel in a sea where the
+currents were unequal, and it was quite impossible to regulate the
+course of the ship by any ordinary calculations.
+
+Marchand made for San Pedro, which lay on the west. He soon recognized
+Dominica, Santa Cristina, and Hood Island, the most northerly of the
+group, and finally anchored in Madre-de-Dios Bay, where he was
+enthusiastically welcomed by the natives, crying "Tayo, Tayo."
+
+Finding it impossible to obtain the number of pigs he required at this
+port, the captain decided upon visiting the remaining bays of Santa
+Cristina Island, which he found better populated, more fertile, and
+more picturesque than that of Madre-de-Dios.
+
+The stay of the English in the Marquesas Islands had been too short to
+allow of accurate observations of the manners and customs of the
+inhabitants. We will therefore make a few extracts from the
+description given by Etienne Marchand.
+
+"These natives are tall, strong, and active. Their complexion is clear
+brown, but many differ little in this respect from the lower orders in
+Europe. The climate renders clothing unnecessary, but they tattoo
+their entire bodies so regularly (each arm and leg, for example,
+exactly like its fellow), that the effect is by no means bad. The way
+of arranging the hair varies, and fashion is as despotic in the
+Marquesas as in other countries. Some wear necklaces of red beads,
+others a string of small pieces of light wood. Although both men and
+women have their ears pierced, ear-rings are not usually worn. But a
+young native girl has been seen strutting about wearing as a neck
+ornament the rusty iron shaving-dish which she had stolen from the
+ship's barber, whilst a man was equally proud of sporting the ramrod
+of Captain Marchand's gun, which he had placed in the orifice of his
+ear, letting part of it hang down."
+
+Cook affirms that these islanders, like the Tahitans, were acquainted
+with "Kaba." Certain it is that they called the brandy, which was
+offered them on the _Solide_, by the name of the pepper-plant. It
+appeared that they did not indulge to excess in this liquor, for none
+of them were ever seen in a state of drunkenness.
+
+The English did not mention in their account of the natives an act of
+civility, which Captain Chanal thought worthy of special record. It
+consisted in offering to a friend a piece of food which had been
+already chewed, that he might have no trouble but that of swallowing
+it. We may easily imagine that the French, in spite of their
+appreciation of the good-will conveyed in this action, were little
+likely to avail themselves of it.
+
+To Marchand we owe also the curious observation that their huts are
+raised upon flat stones, and that the stilts which they use indicate
+that Santa Cristina is subject to inundations. In the exhibition at
+the Trocadero, one of these stilts, extremely well made and carved,
+was exhibited; and M. Hamy, whose thorough knowledge of everything
+relating to Oceania is well known, has written an essay upon this
+singular object.
+
+Beyond the usual occupations of fishing, the construction of their
+weapons, pirogues, and domestic implements, the natives of Santa
+Cristina pass their time in singing, dancing, and amusing themselves.
+The common expression of "killing the time" seems to have been
+invented to mark the uselessness of the actions which make up their
+lives.
+
+During the earlier days of the stay in Madre-de-Dios Bay, Marchand had
+observed something which led him to the discovery of a group of
+islands hitherto unknown to the older navigators or to Cook. Upon a
+clear evening, at sunset, he noticed a spot upon the horizon, which
+had the appearance of a lofty peak. As this appeared several nights in
+succession, he concluded that it was land, and finding it not
+mentioned upon any of the charts, it seemed probable that it was some
+unknown island.
+
+Marchand determined to satisfy himself upon this point, and leaving
+Santa Cristina upon the 20th of June, he had the satisfaction of
+discovering a group of small islands in the north-west, which were
+situated in 7 degrees south latitude. He gave his own name to the most
+important of them. The natives were evidently of the same race as that
+which peopled the Marquesas. Shortly afterwards several other islands
+were discovered; including Baux Island, which is identical with
+Nouka-Hiva, the Deux Freres, and Masse and Chanal Islands. This group,
+since united by geographers to that of the Marquesas, received the
+name of Revolution Islands.
+
+The course was then directed to the American coast. It was too late in
+the season to attempt to reach William's Sound or Cook's River, on the
+sixth parallel. Marchand accordingly resolved upon making for Engano
+Cape and entering the Norfolk Bay of Dixon, which is identical with
+the Guadaloupe Bay of the Spaniards.
+
+Upon the 7th of August Engano Cape was sighted, and after five days of
+calm anchor was cast in Guadaloupe Bay. There had not been a single
+case of scurvy on board, after 242 days' navigation, ten of which only
+were passed in port, at Praya and Madre-de-Dios, and after traversing
+some 5800 leagues of sea. This was certainly a wonderful fact, due to
+the prevision of the ship-owners, who had spared nothing that could
+conduce to the health of the crews, and also to the care with which
+the captains had observed the sanitary measures commended to them by
+experience.
+
+During his stay in this port, which the natives called Tchinkitane,
+Marchand bought a number of otter skins, one hundred of which were of
+the very first quality.
+
+The natives are ugly, stunted, but well proportioned. They have round,
+flat faces, small, sunken, bleared eyes, and prominent cheek-bones,
+which do not add to their beauty.
+
+It is difficult to define the colour of their skins, so carefully is
+it disguised under a thick coating of grease, and the black and red
+substances which they rub in. Their hair is coarse, thick, and bushy,
+covered with ochre, down, and all the filth accumulated by time and
+neglect, and adds not a little to their unprepossessing appearance.
+
+The women, though not so black as the men, are even more ugly. They
+are short and thick-set; their feet turn inwards, and their incredibly
+filthy habits make them repulsive. The coquetry which is innate in the
+female mind, induces them to add to their natural charms by the use of
+a labial ornament, as ugly as it is inconvenient, of which we have
+already spoken in our account of Captain Cook's stay in these waters.
+
+By means of an incision just below the lower lip, they make an opening
+parallel to that of the mouth, into which they insert an iron or
+wooden skewer, and from time to time they gradually increase the size
+of the instrument, in accordance with advancing age.
+
+Finally, they introduce a piece of wood, made for the purpose, of the
+size and shape of the bowl of an ordinary table-spoon. This ornament,
+weighing upon the projecting part, naturally forces down the lower lip
+upon the chin, and developes the beauty of a large, gaping mouth, in
+shape not unlike an oven, revealing a row of dirty, yellow teeth. This
+bowl is removable at pleasure, and when it is absent the opening in
+the lower lip presents the appearance of a second mouth, which is
+little smaller than the natural one, and in some cases has been known
+to be three inches in length.
+
+The _Solide_ left Tchinkitane upon the 21st of August, and steered to
+the south-east, in the hope of coming upon Queen Charlotte's Islands,
+which had been discovered in 1786 by La Perouse. These islands extend
+over a distance of nearly seventy leagues. Upon the 23rd, Etienne
+Marchand sighted Manteau Bay (Dixon's Cloak Bay), which was carefully
+surveyed by Captain Chanal.
+
+Next day the vessels entered Cox Strait, and began to trade with the
+Indians for furs.
+
+The navigators were immensely astonished at seeing two enormous
+paintings, evidently of great age, and some gigantic sculptures, which,
+although not bearing the very smallest comparison to the
+_chef-d'oeuvres_ of Greece, testified none the less to artistic tastes
+little to be expected from the miserable population.
+
+The lands which form Cox Strait and Bay are low and covered with firs.
+The soil, composed of the remains of plants and broken rocks, does not
+appear to have much depth, and the productions are similar to those of
+Tchinkitane.
+
+The population may be estimated at 400. Not unlike Europeans in height
+and figure, they are less hideous than the Tchinkitaneans.
+
+This stay in Cloak Bay was not as productive of trade in furs as
+Marchand had expected, and he therefore decided to send an expedition
+under Captain Chanal to the more southerly islands. The object of the
+expedition was the survey of the regions which had hitherto been
+unvisited. Dixon was the only navigator who had crossed these waters,
+and none of his crew had landed. It is therefore not astonishing that
+many of his assertions were either rectified or denied after this more
+careful exploration.
+
+After sighting Nootka Sound, Berkley Bay was reached, but just as the
+_Solide_ was about to enter it, a three-masted ship was seen
+approaching the harbour from the south, which was precisely what
+Marchand had intended doing. This decided the French navigator to
+proceed immediately to the coast of China, and dispose of his
+merchandize before the vessel he now saw should have time to reach it
+and compete with him.
+
+The best route to follow was that of the Sandwich Islands, and upon
+the 5th of October, the heights of Mauna Loa, and Mauna-Koa were made
+out by the French. They seemed quite free from snow, which was
+contrary to the description given of them by Captain King.
+
+So soon as Owhyhee Island was in sight, Marchand wisely decided to
+conduct all his trade on board. He obtained pigs, fowls, cocoa-nuts,
+bananas, and various fruits from this island, and was delighted at
+finding amongst them pumpkins and watermelons, no doubt from the seeds
+sown by Captain Cook.
+
+Four days were passed in trade, then the route to China was resumed,
+and in due course Tinian Island, one of the Mariannas, was sighted.
+
+Commodore Anson's glowing description of this island will be recalled.
+Byron, as we have already mentioned, was quite astonished at the
+different aspect it presented to him. But the fact is, some fifty
+years earlier Tinian was flourishing and counted thirty thousand
+inhabitants, and the victorious Spaniards had since introduced an
+epidemic which had decimated the population, whilst the miserable
+survivors had been torn from their country and sent to Guaham as
+slaves.
+
+Marchand did not land at Tinian--which according to the accounts of
+every navigator who had visited it since Byron, had relapsed into
+barbarism--but made for the southern extremity of Formosa.
+
+Reaching Macao upon the 28th of November, he heard news which
+disconcerted him. The Chinese Government had just passed a law
+prohibiting the introduction of furs into the ports of the empire
+under most severe penalties. Was this the result of some unknown
+clause in a secret treaty with Russia, or was it due to the cupidity
+and avarice of a few mandarins? In either case it was impossible to
+infringe the law.
+
+Marchand wrote to MM. Baux's agents in Canton; but the same
+prohibition held good in that town also, and it was useless to think
+of reaching Whampoa, where he would have had to pay duty, amounting to
+at least six thousand piastres.
+
+The only course open to Marchand was to go to Mauritius, and thence
+return to Marseilles. It is unnecessary to describe the return voyage,
+which was accomplished without any unusual incidents.
+
+What were the scientific results of this expedition? Nothing to speak
+of, from a geographical point of view. They may be enumerated as
+follows:--The discovery of that portion of the Marquesas Islands which
+had escaped the notice of Captain Cook and his predecessors, a more
+thorough examination of the country, and the manners and customs of
+the natives of Santa Christina in the same group, of Tchinkitane and
+Cloak Bays, and of Queen Charlotte's Islands off the American coast.
+Small as these results might appear for an official expedition, they
+were not unsatisfactory for a vessel equipped by private enterprise;
+moreover, Captain Marchand and his colleagues had turned new
+discoveries to such good account, and studied the narratives of
+earlier voyagers so carefully, that they carried out the plan of their
+expedition more precisely than many experienced navigators might have
+done. And, in their turn, they rendered valuable assistance to their
+successors by the accuracy of their charts and drawings.
+
+Circumstances were to prove less favourable for the publication of an
+account of a scientific expedition undertaken some years later, under
+the auspices of the French Government, having for its object the
+survey of the Australian coast. Although the results of the voyage
+made by Nicolas Baudin were most abundant, they seem up to this date
+to have been little recognized, and scientific dictionaries and
+biographies say as little as possible of his expedition.
+
+From the time of Tasman's discovery of the western coast of New
+Holland, much had been done towards exploring this immense continent.
+Cook had carefully surveyed the eastern coast, discovering Endeavour
+Strait, and had urged upon his government the great advantages which
+would accrue from the founding of a colony in Botany Bay. In 1788,
+Philip, with his band of convicts, had laid the foundation of Port
+Jackson and of English power in this fifth continent of the world. In
+1795 and 1796, Flinders, a midshipman, and Surgeon Bass, with a small
+vessel called the _Tom Thumb_, had explored twenty miles of the River
+George, and made a careful survey of a long stretch of coast.
+
+In 1797, Bass discovered a large harbour, which he named Western Port
+on account of its situation.
+
+"His provisions were now exhausted," says Desborough Coolley, "and in
+spite of his earnest wish to make an accurate and minute survey of his
+new discoveries, he was obliged to retrace his steps. He was only
+provided with provisions for six weeks; still, by aid of fish and
+sea-birds, which he obtained in abundance, he succeeded in extending
+his voyage for another five weeks, although he had taken on board two
+convicts, whom he had picked up. This voyage of six hundred miles in
+an open boat, is one of the most remarkable on record. It was not
+undertaken from necessity, but with the view to exploring unknown and
+dangerous shores."
+
+In 1798, Bass, accompanied by Flinders, discovered the strait which
+now bears his name, and which divides Tasmania from New Holland, and
+in a schooner of some twenty-five tons' burden, he made the tour of
+Van Diemen's land. These brave adventurers collected facts, and made
+observations of the rivers and ports of this country which were of
+great use in the future colonization of the continent. Bass and
+Jackson were both enthusiastically received at Port Jackson.
+
+Upon his return to England, Flinders received command of the
+_Investigator_, with the rank of naval lieutenant. This vessel was
+especially equipped for a voyage of discovery upon the Australian
+coast. The south and north-western shores, the Gulf of Carpentaria,
+and Torres Straits, were to be explored.
+
+Public attention in France had been attracted to New Holland by the
+narratives published by Cook and D'Entrecasteaux. This wonderful
+continent, with its strange unknown animals, and forests of gigantic
+eucalyptus, alternating with barren plains producing nothing but
+prickly plants, was long to present all but invincible obstacles to
+the explorer.
+
+The French Institute was the mouthpiece of popular opinion, in
+demanding from the government the organization of an expedition to the
+southern continent. As a result of their representations, twenty-four
+scientific men were selected to participate in the voyage.
+
+No previous expedition had been so fortunate in the number of
+scientific men attached to the staff. Astronomers, geographers,
+mineralogists, botanists, zoologists, draughtsmen, and gardeners, all
+mustered four or five strong. Foremost amongst them we may mention,
+Leschenaut de Latour, Francois Peron, and Borg de Saint Vincent.
+Officers and sailors had been carefully selected. Among the first were
+Francois-Andre Baudin, Peureux de Melay, Hyacinthe de Bougainville,
+Charles Baudin, Emmanuel Hamelen, Pierre Milius, Mangin, Duval d'Ailly,
+Henri de Freycinet, all of whom in after-life rose to be admirals or
+vice-admirals; Le Bas Sante-Croix, Pierre Gillaume Gicquel,
+Jacques-Philippe Montgery, Jacques de Saint Cricq, Louis de Freycinet,
+all future naval captains.
+
+The narrative says, "The plans for the expedition were such as to
+guarantee its success, and the attainment of the results so eagerly
+desired. All the experiences of preceding navigators, in the latitudes
+through which we were to pass, all that theories and reasoning could
+suggest, had been called into requisition. Most accurate calculations
+of the variable winds, monsoons, and currents had been made, and the
+misfortunes which overtook us were in every case due to our deviation
+from our valuable instructions."
+
+A third vessel of lesser draught was equipped at the Mauritius. The
+navigators were then to proceed to Van Diemen's Land, D'Entrecasteaux,
+Bass, and Banks Straits, and thence, having determined the situation
+of the Hunter Islands, to pass behind St. Peter and St. Francis
+Islands, and survey the country behind them, in the hope of finding
+the strait supposed to be connected with the Gulf of Carpentaria and
+to divide New Holland into two parts.
+
+This survey accomplished, Leuvin, Edels, and Endracht Islands were
+next to be visited, Swan River to be followed as far as possible, and
+a survey taken of Rottnest Island and the coast near it. From thence
+the expedition was to proceed to Shark Bay, to determine various
+points in De Witt Land, and, leaving the coast at North West Cape, to
+go to Timor, in the Moluccas, for a well-earned rest.
+
+After allowing sufficient time for the crews to recover from their
+fatigue, the coast of New Guinea was to be surveyed, with the view to
+ascertaining whether it was broken up into islands by various straits,
+the further portion of Gulf of Carpentaria was to be explored, various
+districts in Arnheim Land were to be reconnoitred, and from thence the
+expedition was to proceed to Mauritius, on its way to Europe.
+
+A more splendid programme was impossible, and it was clearly traceable
+to the able mind which had laid down the route taken by La Perouse and
+D'Entrecasteaux. If the expedition were skilfully conducted the
+results could not fail to be considerable.
+
+The _Geographe_, a corvette of thirty guns, and the _Naturaliste_, a
+large transport ship, were equipped at Havre for the expedition.
+
+Nothing had been forgotten, the provisions were abundant and of good
+quality; each vessel was provided with all kinds of scientific
+instruments by the best makers, a library of the most trustworthy
+authorities, passports couched in the most flattering terms and signed
+by every government in Europe, and unlimited credit in all the towns
+of Asia and Africa. In short, every possible measure was taken to
+ensure the success of this important expedition.
+
+Upon the 19th of October, 1800, the two vessels left Havre amidst the
+acclamations of an immense multitude. A short stay was made at Port
+Santa Cruz in Teneriffe, and thence they proceeded without stopping to
+Mauritius, where several officers were left who were too ill to
+proceed when the expedition set sail upon the 25th of April, 1801.
+
+This was not an encouraging beginning, and discontent was rife when it
+was ascertained that the allowance of fresh bread was to be limited to
+half a pound weekly, and that the usual ration of wine was to be
+replaced by three-sixths of a bottle of the inferior tafia of
+Mauritius, whilst biscuits and salt meats were to be the staple food.
+This ill-advised economy resulted in the illnesses of the crew, and
+the discontent of many of the scientific staff.
+
+The length of the voyage from France to Mauritius, and the long stay
+in that island, had consumed much valuable time, and the favourable
+season was on the wane. Baudin, fearing to attempt to reach Van
+Diemen's Land, decided to commence his exploration upon the north-west
+coast of New Holland. He forgot that he would thus maintain a
+southerly course, so that his advance would coincide with that of the
+season.
+
+The coast of New Holland was discovered upon the 27th of May. It was
+low, barren, and sandy. Geography Bay, Naturalist Cape, Depuch Creek,
+and Piquet Point, were successively sighted and named. In the
+last-named spot the naturalists landed, and reaped a rich harvest of
+plants and shells.
+
+Meantime, however, the violence of the waves carried away the two
+vessels, and twenty-five of the crew were forced to spend several days
+on shore, unable to obtain any but brackish water. They could not
+succeed in killing any sort of game, and their only nourishment was a
+species of samphire, containing a quantity of carbonate of soda and
+acid juice.
+
+A sloop which had been driven on shore by the force of the waves had
+to be abandoned, together with guns, sabres, cartridges, cables,
+tackle, and many other valuable articles.
+
+"But the worst part of this last misfortune," says the narrative, "was
+the loss of Vasse, of Dieppe, one of the most able of the crew of the
+_Naturaliste_. Swept away by the waves three times in his efforts to
+re-embark, he was finally swallowed up without the possibility of
+assistance being rendered to him, or even the fact of his death being
+ascertained--so violent were the waves, and so dark the night!"
+
+The foul weather continued, the wind blew in hurricanes, fine rain
+fell uninterruptedly, and the _Naturaliste_ was lost to view in a
+thick fog which prevailed until Timor was reached.
+
+Upon reaching Rottnest Island--which he had named as a place of
+rendezvous to Captain Hamilton in case of separation--Baudin, to the
+surprise of every one, gave orders to make for Shark's Bay, upon the
+coast of Endracht Island.
+
+The coast of this part of New Holland is a succession of low and
+almost level sandy barren lands, with grey or reddish soil,
+intercepted here and there by slight ravines. The coast is almost
+perpendicular, and is protected by inaccessible reefs; it well
+deserves the name of "the iron coast," which was bestowed upon it by
+the able hydrographer, Boullanger.
+
+From Dirk Hartog Island (where Endracht Land commences), Doore Islands,
+Bernier Islands (where troops of kangaroos were met with), and Dampier
+roadstead, were successively sighted, as far as Shark's Bay, which was
+thoroughly explored.
+
+[Illustration: Native hut in Endracht Land. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+Upon leaving Endracht Land, which offers no attractions, De Witt
+Land--extending from the North West Cape to Arnheim Land, over ten
+degrees of latitude and fifteen of longitude--was thoroughly surveyed.
+Much the same incidents and dangers were met with by the explorers as
+they successively named Hermit and Forester islands, the latter with
+volcanic soil. The Basseterre, in Geography channel--low lands, which
+were avoided with difficulty--with Bedont and Lacepede Islands, Capes
+Borda and Mollien, Champagny d'Arcole, Freycinet, Lucas, and other
+islands, were seen and named.
+
+"Amidst these numberless islands," says the narrative, "there was
+little to please the navigators. The sun shines unprotected by any
+clouds, and, except during the nocturnal storms, there is no movement
+even of the water. Man appears to have fled from this ungrateful soil,
+for no trace of his presence is to be seen."
+
+It is difficult for the traveller, who turns in despair from the
+inhospitable islands of this forsaken coast, where dangers of every
+sort assail him, and no provisions are to be had, to reflect that this
+barren country adjoins groups of Asiatic islands upon which nature has
+lavished her treasures and delights with a liberal hand.
+
+The discovery of the Buonaparte Archipelago completed the survey of
+this miserable region. It is situated between 13 degrees 15 minutes S.
+lat. and 123 degrees 30 minutes long. W. of Paris.
+
+"The wretched food upon which we had lived since we left Mauritius had
+tried the strongest constitutions. The ravages of scurvy had been
+severely felt, our store of water was very low, and there was no
+possibility of replenishing it in this miserable region. The time
+approached for the return of the monsoon, and its accompanying storms
+must be avoided on this coast; above all, we must procure a boat to
+enable us to rejoin the _Naturaliste_."
+
+Moved by all these considerations, the captain decided to direct his
+course to Timor Island, and he anchored there upon the 22nd of August,
+in the roadstead of Coupang.
+
+It is unnecessary to enter into details of the reception accorded to
+the navigators. Hospitality and kindness are ever valuable to the
+recipients, but there is a sameness in an account of them which is
+wearisome to the reader. We need only dwell upon the sore need of rest
+for the suffering crew: ten of those who landed were in the worst
+stage of scurvy, and many others had the swollen and inflamed gums
+which precede the attack of this scourge of seamen.
+
+Unfortunately, although the scurvy yielded to the remedies applied, it
+was succeeded by dysentery, which in a few days laid low eighteen men.
+
+[Illustration: King of the Island of Timor. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+At length, upon the 21st of September, the _Naturaliste_ appeared. Her
+captain had patiently awaited the arrival of the _Geographe_ in
+Shark's Bay, that being the rendezvous appointed by Baudin, but which
+he had failed to keep. The officers availed themselves of this stay
+thoroughly to survey the shores of Rottnest Island, and to explore the
+Swan River, and Albrolhos or Houtman Rocks.
+
+Two Dutch inscriptions, scratched upon tin plates, had been discovered
+by Captain Hamelin upon Dirk Hartog Island. One recorded the passage,
+upon the 25th of October, 1616, of the ship _Eendraght_, from
+Amsterdam; and the other, the stay of the _Geelwinck_ in this port in
+1697, under command of Captain Vlaming.
+
+"The result of the examinations made by the officers of the
+_Naturaliste_ was as follows:--The so-called Shark's Bay extends from
+Cape Cuvier on the north, to Freycinet Gulf; the eastern coast is all
+part of the mainland; and the western consists of the islet of Koks,
+Bernier, Doore, and Dirk Hartog Islands, and a small portion of the
+mainland. The peninsula of Peron occupies the centre of this extensive
+bay, and to the east and west are the harbours of Hamelin and Henri
+Freycinet."
+
+Unfortunately even the sickness among their unfortunate crews did but
+restore temporary concord between Captain Baudin and his staff. He
+himself had been attacked by a fever, and for a few hours it was
+supposed that he was dead.
+
+Upon his recovery eight days later, however, he did not hesitate to
+place one of his officers, M. Picquet, ensign, under arrest. All the
+members of his staff disapproved of this action, and offered
+repeatedly many flattering tokens of their esteem and regard to the
+disgraced officer. As M. Picquet was made lieutenant upon his return
+to France, it would appear that he was not in fault.
+
+Captain Baudin had deviated from the instructions given him by the
+Institute. He now proceeded to Van Diemen's Land, leaving Timor upon
+the 13th of November, 1801. The French found themselves in sight of
+the southern coast of this island exactly two months later; the
+ravages of disease continued on board, and the number of victims was
+considerable.
+
+The two ships at length reached D'Entrecasteaux Strait, which had
+escaped the notice of Tasman, Furneaux, Cook, Marion, Hunter and Bligh,
+and the discovery of which was the result of a mistake, which might
+have had dangerous consequences. The vessels had anchored in this spot
+for the sake of obtaining water, and several boats were sent in search
+of it.
+
+"At half-past nine," says Peron, "we were at the mouth of Swan River.
+This spot appeared to me to exceed in beauty and picturesque effect
+anything that I had hitherto met with. Seven mountain ranges rise one
+above the other, forming the background of the harbour; whilst on the
+right and left lofty hills shut it in, and present the appearance of a
+number of rounded capes and romantic creeks. Vegetation is most
+luxuriant, the shores abound in hardy trees, growing so densely that
+it is almost impossible to penetrate into the forest. Flocks of
+paroquets and cockatoos, of most brilliant plumage, hover above them,
+while the blue-ringed tomtits sport beneath their branches. The sea
+was almost calm, and scarcely ruffled by the passage of the
+innumerable black swans continuously passing to or fro."
+
+[Illustration: The Swan River. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+All who went in search of a watering-place were not equally pleased
+with their reception by the natives.
+
+Captain Hamelin, in company with MM. Leschenant and Petit, and several
+officers and sailors, had encountered some natives, to whom he offered
+various presents. As they were about to re-embark the French were
+assailed by a shower of stones, one of which wounded Captain Hamelin
+severely. The natives brandished their assegais, and made many
+threatening gestures, but could not provoke the strangers to retaliate
+by a single shot--a most rare example of moderation and humanity!
+
+"The geographical observations made by Admiral D'Entrecasteaux in Van
+Diemen's Land are so wonderfully correct," says the narrative, "that
+it would be scarcely possible to imagine anything more perfect of
+their kind. Their principal author, M. Beautemps-Beaupre has indeed
+fully merited the esteem of his fellow countrymen and the gratitude of
+all navigators. In every case where investigation was possible, this
+skilful engineer made sure of every point. His survey of the strait of
+D'Entrecasteaux, and the numberless bays and channels comprised in it,
+was especially thorough. Unfortunately his explorations did not extend
+to that portion of Van Diemen's Land which lies north-east of the
+strait, and which was only superficially examined by the French
+boats."
+
+It was to this portion of the coast that the hydrographers more
+particularly directed their attention, in the hope that by adding the
+results of their observations to that of their fellow-countrymen they
+might gain a thorough knowledge of the coast. This undertaking, which
+was to complete the results of D'Entrecasteaux's exertions, detained
+the navigators until the 6th of February. The details and incidents of
+such exploration are always alike, and offer little to interest the
+general reader. For this reason we shall not dwell upon them, in spite
+of their importance, except when they contain anecdotes of interest.
+
+The _Naturaliste_ and _Geographe_ next proceeded to the exploration of
+Banks' and Bass's straits.
+
+"Upon the morning of the 6th of March we coasted the islets of
+Taillefer and Schouten Island, at a good distance. Towards mid-day we
+found ourselves opposite Forester's Cape, and our skilful geographer,
+M. Boullanger, embarked in the long-boat, commanded by M. Maurouard,
+to survey the coast. The ship was to follow a route parallel with that
+of the boat, of which it was never to lose sight for a moment; but M.
+Boullanger had scarcely been gone a quarter of an hour when Capt.
+Baudin, without any apparent reason, tacked round and gained the more
+open sea. The boat was lost to sight, and the coast was not neared
+again until night was approaching. A strong breeze had arisen, which,
+increasing every moment, added to the uncertainty of our movements.
+Night fell, and the coast upon which we had abandoned our unhappy
+comrades was hidden from our sight. The three following days were
+vainly spent in the endeavour to find the missing boats."
+
+This calm narration would appear to veil strong indignation against
+Captain Baudin.
+
+What can have been his motive for forsaking his sailors and two of his
+ablest officers? This is a problem which the most attentive perusal of
+Peron's narrative fails to elucidate.
+
+To enter the straits of Banks and Bass was to tread in the footsteps
+of the latter, and of Flinders, who had made these waters the special
+field of their discoveries; but when, upon the 29th of March, 1802,
+the _Geographe_ commenced coasting the south-western shore of New
+Holland, one portion of it only was known--that which extends from
+Cape Leuwin to St. Peter and St. Francis Islands. The land stretching
+from the eastern boundary of Nuytsland to Port Western had never yet
+been trodden by an European foot. All the importance of this cruise is
+apparent when we reflect that it was undertaken to decide whether New
+Holland consisted of one island only, and whether any large rivers
+flowed into the sea from it.
+
+Latreille Island, Mount Tabor Cape, Cape Folard, Descartes Bay,
+Bouffler Cape, Estaing Bay, Rivoli Bay, Mongo Cape, were all
+successively sighted and named. An extraordinary take of dolphins had
+delighted the crew, when a sail was seen upon the horizon. It was of
+course supposed that it was the _Naturaliste_, from which the
+_Geographe_ had been separated by violent storms since the night of
+the 7-8 March. As the vessel was making rapid way, she was soon
+abreast of the _Geographe_. She carried the English colours. It was
+the _Investigator_, under command of Captain Flinders, eight months
+from Europe, sent for the completion of the survey of New Holland.
+Flinders had been engaged for three months in the exploration of the
+coast. He, too, had suffered from storms and tempest in Bass's Strait;
+during one of the latter he had lost a boat, containing eight men and
+his chief officer.
+
+[Illustration: A sail was seen on the horizon.]
+
+The _Geographe_ visited in succession Cape Cretet, the Peninsula of
+Fleurien (which is about twenty miles in extent), the Gulf of St.
+Vincent (so called by Flinders), Kangaroo Island, Althorp Islands,
+Spencer Gulf--upon the western coast of which is Port Lincoln, the
+finest and safest harbour in New Holland--and the islands of St.
+Francis and St. Peter. Certainly Captain Baudin, in order to render
+this hydrographical survey complete, should have followed out his
+instructions, and penetrated beyond St. Peter and St. Francis Islands.
+The weather, however, was too unpropitious, and this exploration was
+reserved for a future expedition.
+
+Scurvy meantime made fearful ravages amongst the adventurers. More
+than half the crew were incapable of service. Two only of the helmsmen
+were in a fit condition for duty. How could anything else be expected
+in a vessel which was not provided with either wine or brandy, but was
+provisioned only with foetid water, biscuits infested with maggots,
+and putrid meats, the mere smell of which was injurious?
+
+Winter, too, had set in in the southern hemisphere, and the crews were
+in sore need of rest. The nearest harbour was Port Jackson, and the
+shortest passage thither was by Bass's Strait. Baudin, who always
+appears to have disliked following a beaten track, thought differently,
+and gave orders for doubling the southern extremity of Van Diemen's
+Land.
+
+Upon the 20th of May anchor was cast in Adventure Bay. The sick who
+could be moved were carried on shore, where water was plentiful. But
+the stormy waters were no longer passable; a thick fog prevailed, and
+only the sound of the waves breaking upon the shore saved the vessels
+from running aground. The number of sick increased. The ocean claimed
+a fresh victim each succeeding day. Upon the 4th of June there were
+only six men equal to their work, and the tempest increased in fury,
+yet the _Geographe_ escaped destruction once more!
+
+[Illustration: The sick were carried on shore.]
+
+Upon the 17th of June a vessel was signalled, and from her captain the
+navigators learned that the _Naturaliste_, after waiting vainly for
+her consort at Port Jackson, had gone in search of her--that the
+abandoned boat had been rescued by an English vessel, and the crew had
+been received upon the _Naturaliste_.
+
+The _Geographe_ was awaited with eager impatience at Port Jackson,
+where help of every kind was prepared for her.
+
+The _Geographe_ was for three days within reach of Port Jackson, and
+yet unable to enter the harbour, for want of able-bodied seamen to
+work her. An English sloop, with a pilot, and the necessary men for
+working the vessel, was, however, sent to the rescue.
+
+The entrance to Port Jackson is only two miles in width, but it widens
+until it forms a large harbour containing water enough for the largest
+ships, and space enough to accommodate all comers in perfect safety. A
+thousand ships of the line might easily anchor there, according to
+Commodore Philips' report.
+
+"Towards the centre of this magnificent port, and upon its southern
+coast, the town of Sydney is situated. Built upon two adjacent hills,
+and watered by a small river which runs through it, this rising town
+presents a pleasant and picturesque appearance.
+
+"The eye is at once struck by the fortifications, and the hospital,
+which is large enough to contain two or three hundred sick, and was
+brought from England in pieces by Commodore Philips. Immense
+warehouses, for the reception of the cargoes of the largest vessels,
+are built upon the shore. Ships of all kinds were being constructed in
+the yards from the wood of the country."
+
+[Illustration: View of Sydney. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+With a sentiment of respect, which almost amounts to veneration, the
+sloop in which M. Bass made the discovery of the strait which
+separates Tasmania from New Holland is preserved. Snuff-boxes made of
+the wood of her keel are valued as relics by their possessors; and the
+governor of the fort could think of no more acceptable present for
+Captain Baudin than a piece of the wood of this famous vessel, mounted
+in silver, upon which the chief details of the discovery of Bass's
+Straits were engraved. Equally worthy of admiration were the prison
+(capable of lodging two hundred prisoners), the wine and provision
+warehouses, the exercising ground (overlooked by the governor's house),
+the barracks, observatory, and the English church, of which the
+foundations were at this time but just laid.
+
+"The great change in the conduct and condition of the convicts was not
+less interesting.
+
+"We found new cause for surprise in the population of the colony. A
+more worthy subject for the reflection of a philosopher or statesman
+never existed--no brighter example of the influence of social
+institutions can be imagined--than that afforded on the distant shores
+of which we are speaking. Here are to be found the formidable ruffians
+who in a civilized country were the terror of their government.
+Transported to these foreign shores, ejected from European society,
+and placed from their first arrival between the certainty of
+punishment on the one hand and the hope of a better fate in store for
+them upon the other, surrounded by a surveillance as benevolent as it
+is active, they are absolutely forced to relinquish their anti-social
+habits.
+
+"The majority, after expiating their crimes by hard labour, receive
+the rank of citizenship. Interested themselves in the maintenance of
+order and justice, for the sake of the preservation of such property
+as they have accumulated, many of them having become husbands and
+fathers, the closest of all ties bind them to their present situation.
+
+"The same revolution, brought about by the same means, takes place in
+the lives of the women and wretched girls. By degrees accustomed to
+more correct principles of conduct, they in time become the mothers of
+hard-working and honest families."
+
+The welcome accorded to the French at Port Jackson was in the highest
+degree satisfactory. Every possible facility for the prosecution of
+their researches was afforded to the naturalists, whilst the military
+authorities and private inhabitants vied with each other in offering
+provisions and help of every kind.
+
+Many were the successful excursions in the neighbourhood, and the
+naturalists delighted in examining the famous vineyards of Rose Hill,
+to which the finest plants from the Cape, the Canary Islands, Madeira,
+Xeres, and Bordeaux had been transported.
+
+When questioned, the vine-dressers said the plants sprout more
+vigorously here than anywhere else, but the first breath of wind from
+the north-west is enough to destroy everything; buds, flowers, and
+leaves alike withering beneath its scorching heat.
+
+Somewhat later, the culture of the vine, transported to a more
+favourable locality, increased greatly; and although it has as yet not
+attained to any remarkable growth, furnishes a wine which is pleasant
+to the taste and very alcoholic.
+
+The Blue Mountains, which for a long time bounded European research,
+are thirty miles beyond Sydney. Lieutenant Dawes and Captain Tench
+Paterson--who explored Hawkesbury River, the Nile of New
+Holland--Hacking, Bass, and Barraillier, had alike failed to scale
+them.
+
+Already, the thinning of the trees in the neighbouring forests, and
+the excellence of the grass, had rendered New South Wales an excellent
+pasturage. Cattle and sheep had been largely imported.
+
+"They multiplied so quickly, that in State pastures alone there were
+no less than 1800 head of cattle within a short time of our stay at
+Port Jackson; of these 514 were bulls, 121 oxen, and 1165 cows. The
+increase and growth of these animals was so rapid, that in less than
+eleven months the number of oxen and cows had reached from 1856 to
+2450, which would be at the rate of increase per annum of 650 head, or
+one third of the entire number.
+
+"Carrying this calculation on at the same rate for a period of thirty
+years, or even reducing the increase by one half, it is clear that New
+South Wales would be teeming throughout its length and breadth with
+cattle.
+
+"Sheep farming has had even greater success. The increase of flocks
+upon these distant shores is so prolific that Captain MacArthur, one
+of the richest landowners of New South Wales, does not hesitate to
+assert, in a pamphlet published for that purpose, that in twenty years
+New Holland alone will be able to supply England with all the wool
+which is now imported from neighbouring countries, and the price of
+which amounts yearly to 1,800,000_l_. sterling."
+
+We know now how very little exaggeration there was in these
+calculations, although at that time they appeared most wonderful. It
+is interesting to read of the growth of this industry, and the
+impression produced by it, in its earlier stages, upon the French
+navigators.
+
+The crew had many of them recovered their health, but the number of
+able sailors was still so small that it was necessary to send the
+_Naturaliste_ back to France, after selecting the most healthy of the
+crew. She was replaced by a vessel of thirty tons burden, called the
+_Casuarina_, the command of which was entrusted to Louis de Freycinet.
+The slight build and low draught of this vessel made it valuable for
+coasting purposes.
+
+The _Naturaliste_, says Peron, with the records of the expedition, and
+the results of the observations made during the two voyages, also took
+away with it "more than 40,000 animals of different kinds, collected
+from the various countries which had been visited during the two
+years." Thirty-two huge cases contained these collections, certainly
+the richest ever brought together in Europe, which when exhibited in
+the house occupied by myself and M. Bellefin, excited the admiration
+of all the English visitors, especially of the celebrated naturalist,
+Paterson.
+
+The _Geographe_ and the _Casuarina_ left Port Jackson upon the 18th of
+November, 1802. On this new trip the explorers surveyed King Island,
+Hunter Island, and the north-western portion of Van Diemen's Land,
+thus completing the geography of the coast of this huge island. From
+the 27th of December, 1802, till the 15th of February, 1803, Captain
+Baudin was engaged in reconnoitring the Kangaroo Islands, upon the
+south-western coast of Australia, with the two gulfs opposite to them.
+
+"It was indeed strange," says Peron, "to observe the monotonous and
+sterile character of the different portions of New Holland--the
+greater on account of its contrast to that of the neighbouring
+countries. On the north-west we had been charmed by the fertile
+islands of the Timor Archipelago, with their lofty mountains, rivers,
+streams, and forests. Yet scarcely forty-eight hours had passed since
+we left the desert shores of De Witt Land. Again, on the south, the
+wonderful vegetation and smiling slopes of Van Diemen's Land had
+excited our admiration, and yet more recently we had been delighted
+with the verdure and fertility of King Island.
+
+"The scene changes; we reach the shore of New Holland, and are once
+more face to face with the desolation, the description of which must
+already have wearied the reader as much as it surprised the
+philosopher and oppressed the explorer."
+
+The engineers who accompanied the _Casuarina_ for the survey of
+Spencer Gulf, and the peninsula which divides it from the Gulf of St.
+Vincent, were obliged to abridge the prosecution of their discoveries
+in Lincoln Port, and content themselves with the thorough survey which
+enabled them to decide positively that no great river discharges
+itself into the ocean in this region. The time for their return to
+Kangaroo Island had arrived. But in spite of their conviction that if
+they delayed they would be left behind, they did not hasten their
+movements sufficiently, and upon reaching the rendezvous found that
+the captain of the _Geographe_ had already started, without concerning
+himself in the least about the _Casuarina_, although her stock of
+provisions was very inadequate.
+
+Baudin decided to continue the exploration of the coast and the survey
+of St. Francis Archipelago alone--a most important undertaking, as no
+navigator had examined its islands separately since its first
+discovery by Peter Nuyts in 1627.
+
+Flinders had really just made this exploration; but Baudin was not
+aware of this, and fancied himself the first European who had entered
+these waters since their discovery.
+
+When the _Geographe_ reached King George's Harbour upon the 6th of
+February, the _Casuarina_ had already arrived there, but in such a
+damaged condition that her captain had been obliged to run her aground.
+
+King George's Sound, discovered in 1791 by Vancouver, is of great
+importance, as being the only point throughout an extent of coast
+equal to the distance between Paris and St. Petersburg where it is
+possible to rely upon obtaining sweet water at all seasons of the year.
+
+In spite of its advantages in this respect, the surrounding country is
+very barren. M. Boullanger in his "Journal" says, "The aspect of the
+country inland at this point is perfectly horrible; even birds are
+scarce: it is a silent desert."
+
+In one of the recesses of this bay, known as Oyster Harbour, a
+naturalist, named M. Faure, discovered a large river, named after the
+French, the mouth of which was as wide as the Seine at Paris. He
+undertook to ascend it, and thus penetrated as far as possible into
+the interior of the country. About two leagues from the entrance of
+the river his further progress was arrested by two embankments,
+solidly constructed of stones, connected with a small island, and
+forming an impassable obstacle.
+
+This barrier was pierced by several openings, most of them above the
+low tide level, and much wider upon the side facing the sea than upon
+the other.
+
+By these openings the fish which entered the river at high tide could
+easily pass through, but could not return, and were consequently
+imprisoned in a sort of reservoir, where the natives could catch them
+at their leisure.
+
+M. Faure found no less than five of these erections in the space of
+less than the third of a mile--a most singular proof of the ingenuity
+of the barbarous natives of the country, who in other respects appear
+upon the level of brutes.
+
+In King George's Harbour one of the officers attached to the
+_Geographe_, named M. Ransonnet, more fortunate than Vancouver and
+D'Entrecasteaux, had an interview with the natives. This was the first
+time a European had been able to approach them.
+
+M. Ransonnet says, "We had scarcely appeared when eight natives, who,
+upon our first appearance on their coast, had vainly called to us by
+cries and gestures, appeared suddenly together. After awhile three of
+them, who were no doubt women, went away again. The remaining five,
+first throwing their assegais to a distance, to convince us, probably,
+of their pacific intentions, assisted us in landing. At my suggestion,
+the sailors offered them various presents, which they received with an
+air of satisfaction, but without enthusiasm. Whether from apathy, or
+as a mark of confidence, they returned the presents to us with a
+pleased expression; and upon our once more presenting them with the
+same things, they left them upon the ground or surrounding rocks.
+
+"They were accompanied by many large and handsome dogs. I did all I
+could to induce them to part with one. I offered them all I had, but
+their refusal was persistent. They probably employed them in hunting
+the kangaroo, which, with the fish that I had seen them pierce with
+their assegais, formed their staple food. They drank some coffee, and
+ate some salt beef and biscuits, but refused the bacon we offered, and
+left it behind them upon the stones without touching it.
+
+"These natives are tall, thin, and very active. They have long hair,
+black eyebrows, short flat noses, sunken eyes, large mouths, with
+projecting lips, and fine and very white teeth. The inside of their
+mouths seemed as black as the outside of their bodies.
+
+"The three who appeared the oldest among them, and who might have been
+from forty to fifty years of age, had large black beards. Their teeth
+appeared to have been filed, and the cartilage of the nose pierced.
+Their hair was trimmed, and curled naturally.
+
+"The other two, whose ages we took to be from sixteen to eighteen,
+were not tatooed at all. Their long hair was gathered into a chignon,
+powdered with red dust, similar to that which the elder ones had
+rubbed over their bodies.
+
+"They were all naked, and wore no ornament, excepting a large
+waistband, composed of a number of small fringed strips of kangaroo
+skin. They talked volubly, and sang in snatches, but always in the
+same key, and accompanied their song with the same gestures. In spite
+of the friendly feeling which continued to exist between us, they
+never allowed us to approach the spot where the other natives,
+probably their wives, were hidden."
+
+After a stay of twelve days in King George's Harbour, the explorers
+again put to sea. They rectified and completed the maps drawn by
+D'Entrecasteaux and Vancouver of Lecon, Edel, and Endrant Lands, which
+were in turn visited and surveyed, between the 7th and the 26th of
+March. Thence Baudin proceeded to De Witt Land, which was almost
+unknown when he visited it the first time. He hoped to succeed better
+than De Witt, Vianen, Dampier, and St. Allouarn, who had all been
+unsuccessful in their efforts to explore it; but the breakers, reefs,
+and sandbanks, rendered navigation extremely perilous.
+
+A new source of danger shortly afterwards arose, in the singular
+illusion of the mirage. "The effect," says the narrative, "was to make
+the _Geographe_ appear to be surrounded by reefs, although at the time
+she was a full league away from them, and every one on board the
+_Casuarina_ imagined her to be in the most imminent danger. Only when
+it became too exaggerated to be real was the magic of the illusion
+dispelled."
+
+Upon the 3rd of May the two vessels once more cast anchor in Coupang
+Port, Timor Island. One month later, after revictualling, Captain
+Baudin set sail for De Witt Land, where he now hoped to find the winds
+favourable for an advance to the east. From thence he proceeded to
+Mauritius, where he died upon the 16th of September, 1803. It appears
+probable that the precarious state of his health had some influence
+upon his conduct of this expedition, and possibly his staff would have
+had less reason to complain of him had he been in full possession of
+all his faculties. This, however, is a question for psychologists to
+decide.
+
+[Illustration: Water-carrier at Timor. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+The _Geographe_ entered Lorient roadstead upon the 23rd of March, and
+three days later the vast collection of natural curiosities was landed.
+
+The narrative says, "Besides an immense number of cases, containing
+minerals, dried plants, fish, reptiles, and zoophytes, preserved in
+brandy, stuffed or dissected quadrupeds and birds, we had seventy
+large cases filled with vegetables in their natural state, comprising
+nearly two hundred species of useful plants, and about six hundred
+varieties of seeds. In addition to all this, at least a hundred living
+animals."
+
+We cannot better complete our account of the results of this
+expedition than by giving an extract from the report laid before the
+Government by the Institute, relating more particularly to the
+zoological collection made by MM. Peron and Lesueur.
+
+"It comprises more than 100,000 specimens of large and small animals.
+Many important new species are already recognized, and there still
+remain, according to the statement made by the professor at the museum,
+upwards of 2500 to be classified."
+
+When we reflect that Cook's second voyage, the most successful
+undertaken up to this period, had produced only 250 specimens; that
+the united voyages of Carteret, Wallis, Furneaux, Meares, and even
+Vancouver, had not accumulated so many, and when we admit that the
+same statement applies to all succeeding French expeditions, it is
+evident that MM. Peron and Lesueur introduced more new animals to
+Europe than all other modern travellers put together.
+
+Moreover, the geographical and hydrographical results were
+considerable. The English Government has always refused to acknowledge
+them, and Desborough Cooley, in his "History of Voyages," subordinates
+Baudin's discoveries to those of Flinders. It was even suggested that
+Flinders was detained prisoner at Mauritius for six years and a half,
+in order to allow French authors time to consult his maps, and arrange
+the details of their voyages accordingly. This accusation is too
+absurd to need refutation.
+
+The two navigators, French and English, have each fairly earned a
+place in the history of the discovery of the Australian coasts, and it
+is unnecessary to praise one at the expense of the other.
+
+In the preface to the second edition of his "Voyage de la Corvette
+_Australis_" which was revised and corrected by Louis de Freycinet,
+Peron has given each his due meed of praise; and to his able work we
+refer all readers who are interested in the question.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+AFRICAN EXPLORERS.
+
+Shaw in Algeria and Tunis--Hornemann in Fezzan--Adamson at Senegal--
+Houghton in Senegambia--Mungo Park and his two voyages to the Djoliba,
+or Niger--Sego--Timbuctoo--Sparmann and Lavaillant at the Cape, at
+Natal, and in the Interior--Lacerda in Mozambique, and at Cazembe--
+Bruce in Abyssinia--Sources of the Blue Nile--Tzana Lake--Browne's
+journey in Darfur.
+
+
+An Englishman named Thomas Shaw, a chaplain in Algeria, had profited
+by his twelve years' stay in Barbary to gather together a rich
+collection of natural curiosities, medals, inscriptions, and various
+objects of interest. Although he himself never visited the southern
+portion of Algeria, he availed himself of the facts he was able to
+obtain from well-informed travellers, who imparted to him a mass of
+information concerning the little known and scarcely visited country.
+He published a book in two large quarto volumes, which embraced the
+whole of ancient Numidia.
+
+[Illustration: Map of part of North Africa.]
+
+It was rather the work of a learned man than the account of a
+traveller, and it must be admitted that the learning is occasionally
+ill-directed. But in spite of its shortcomings as a geographical
+history, it had a large value at the time of its publication, and no
+one could have been better situated than Shaw for collecting such an
+enormous mass of material.
+
+The following extract may give an idea of the style of the work:--
+
+"The chief manufacture of the Kabyles and Arabs is the making 'hykes,'
+as they call their blankets. The women alone are employed in this
+work; like Andromache and Penelope of old, they do not use the shuttle,
+but weave every thread of the woof with their fingers. The usual size
+of a hyke is six yards long and five or six feet broad, serving the
+Kabyle and Arab as a complete dress during the day, and as a covering
+for the bed at night. It is a loose but troublesome garment, as it is
+often disarranged and slips down, so that the person who wears it is
+every moment obliged to tuck it up and rearrange it. This shows the
+great use there is of a girdle whenever men are in active employment,
+and explains the force of the Scripture injunction _of having our
+loins girded_. The method of wearing this garment, with the use it is
+at other times put to as bed-covering, makes it probable that it is
+similar to if not identical with the _peplus_ of the ancients. It is
+likewise probable that the loose garment flung over the shoulder, the
+_toga_ of the Romans, was of this kind, as the drapery of statues is
+arranged very much in the same manner as the Arab hyke."
+
+It is unnecessary to linger over this work, which has little interest
+for us. We shall do better to turn our attention to the journey of
+Frederic Conrad Horneman to Fezzan.
+
+This young German offered his services to the African Society of
+London, and, having satisfied the authorities of his knowledge of
+medicine and acquaintance with the Arabic language, he was engaged,
+and furnished with letters of introduction, safe-conducts, and
+unlimited credit.
+
+Leaving London in July, 1797, he went first to Paris. Lalande
+introduced him to the Institute, and presented him with his "Memoire
+sur l'Afrique," and Broussonet gave him an introduction to a Turk from
+whom he obtained letters of recommendation to certain Cairo merchants
+who carried on business in the interior of Africa.
+
+During his stay at Cairo, Horneman devoted himself to perfecting his
+knowledge of Arabic, and studying the manners and customs of the
+natives. We must not omit to mention that the traveller had been
+presented by Monge and Berthollet to Napoleon Buonaparte, who was then
+in command of the French forces in Egypt. From him he received a
+cordial welcome, and Buonaparte placed all the resources of the
+country at his service.
+
+[Illustration: "He received a cordial welcome."]
+
+As the safer method of travelling, Horneman resolved to disguise
+himself as a Mohammedan merchant. He quickly learned a few prayers,
+and adopted a style of dress likely to impose upon unsuspecting people.
+He then started, accompanied by a fellow-countryman named Joseph
+Frendenburg, who had been a Mussulman for more than twelve years, had
+already made three pilgrimages to Mecca, and was perfectly familiar
+with the various Turkish and Arabic dialects. He was to act as
+Horneman's interpreter.
+
+On the 5th of September, 1798, the traveller left Cairo with a caravan,
+and visited the famous oasis of Jupiter Ammon or Siwah, situated in
+the desert on the east of Egypt. It is a small independent state,
+which acknowledges the Sultan, but is exempt from paying tribute. The
+town of Siwah is surrounded by several villages, at distances of a
+mile or two. It is built upon a rock in which the inhabitants have
+hollowed recesses for their dwellings. The streets are so narrow and
+intricate that a stranger cannot possibly find his way among them.
+
+This oasis is of considerable extent. The most fertile portion
+comprises a well-watered valley, about fifty miles in circumference,
+which is productive of corn and edible vegetables. Dates of an
+excellent flavour are its most valuable export.
+
+Horneman was anxious to explore some ruins which he had noticed, for
+he could obtain little information from the natives. But every time he
+penetrated to any distance in the ruins, he was followed by a number
+of the inhabitants, who prevented him from examining anything in
+detail. One of the Arabs said to him, "You must still be a Christian
+at heart, or you would not so often visit the works of the infidels."
+
+This remark put a speedy end to Horneman's further explorations. As
+far as his superficial examination enabled him to judge, it was really
+the oasis of Ammon, and the ruins appeared to him to be of Egyptian
+origin.
+
+The immense number of catacombs in the neighbourhood of the town,
+especially on the hill overlooking it, indicate a dense population in
+ancient times. The traveller endeavoured vainly to obtain a perfect
+head from one of these burial-places. Amongst the skulls he procured,
+he found no certain proof that they had been filled with resin. He met
+with many fragments of clothing, but they were all in such a state of
+decay that it was impossible to decide upon their origin or use.
+
+After a stay of eight days in this place, Horneman crossed the
+mountains which surrounded the oasis of Siwah, and directed his steps
+towards Schiatah. So far no misfortune had interrupted his progress.
+But at Schiatah he was denounced as a Christian and a spy. Horneman
+cleverly saved his life by boldly reading out a passage in the Koran
+which he had in his possession. Unfortunately, his interpreter,
+expecting that his baggage would be searched, had burned the
+collection of fragments of mummies, the botanical specimens, the
+journal containing the account of the journey, and all the books. This
+loss was quite irreparable.
+
+A little further on, the caravan reached Augila, a town mentioned by
+Herodotus, who places it some ten days' journey from the oasis of
+Ammon. This accords with the testimony given by Horneman, who reached
+it in nine days' forced march. At Augila a number of merchants from
+Bengasi, Merote, and Mokamba had joined the caravan, amounting
+altogether to no less than a hundred and twenty persons. After a long
+journey over a sandy desert, the caravan entered a country
+interspersed with hills and ravines, where they found trees and grass
+at intervals. This was the desert of Harutsch. It was necessary to
+cross it in order to reach Temissa, a town of little note, built upon
+a hill, and surrounded by a high wall. At Zuila the Fezzan country was
+entered. The usual ceremonies, with interminable compliments and
+congratulations, were repeated at the entrance to every town. The
+Arabs appear to lay great stress upon these salutations, little
+trustworthy as they are, and travellers constantly express surprise at
+their frequent recurrence.
+
+Upon the 17th of November, the caravan halted at Murzuk, the capital
+of Fezzan. It was the end of the journey. Horneman says that the
+greatest length of the cultivated portion of Fezzan is about three
+hundred miles from north to south, but to this must be added the
+mountainous region of Harutsch on the east, and the various deserts
+north and west. The climate is never pleasant; in summer the heat is
+terrible, and when the wind blows from the south, it is all but
+insupportable, even to the natives, and in winter the north wind is so
+cold that they are obliged to have recourse to fires.
+
+The produce of the country consists principally of dates and
+vegetables. Murzuk is the chief market; there are collected the
+products of Cairo, Bengazi, Tripoli, Ghadames, Ghat, and the Soudan.
+Among the articles of commerce are male and female slaves, ostrich
+feathers, skins of wild beasts, and gold-dust or nuggets. Bornu
+produces copper; Cairo silks, calicoes, woollen garments, imitation
+coral, bracelets, and Indian manufactures. Fire-arms, sabres, and
+knives are imported by the merchants of Tripoli and Ghadames.
+
+The Fezzan country is ruled by a sultan descended from the scherifs,
+whose power is limitless, but who, nevertheless, pays a tribute of
+four thousand dollars to the Bey of Tripoli. Horneman, without giving
+the grounds of his calculation, informs us that the population amounts
+to seventy-five thousand inhabitants, all of whom profess
+Mohammedanism.
+
+Horneman's narrative gives a few more details of the manners and
+customs of the people. He ends his report to the African Society by
+saying that he proposes visiting Fezzan again in the hope of obtaining
+new facts.
+
+We learn, further, that Frendenburg, Horneman's faithful associate,
+died at Murzuk. Attacked by a violent fever, Horneman was forced to
+remain much longer than he desired in that town. While still only
+partially recovered, he went to Tripoli for change and rest, hoping
+there to meet with Europeans. Upon the 1st of December, 1799, he
+returned to Murzuk, and left it finally with a caravan upon the 7th of
+April, 1800. He was irresistibly attracted towards Bornu, and perished
+in that country, which was to claim so many victims.
+
+During the eighteenth century, Africa was literally besieged by
+travellers. Explorers endeavoured to penetrate into it from every side.
+More than one succeeded in reaching the interior, only to meet with
+repulse or death. The discovery of the secrets of this mysterious
+continent was reserved for our own age, when the unexpected fertility
+of its resources has astonished the civilized world.
+
+The facts relating to the coast of Senegal needed confirmation, but
+the French superiority was no longer undisputed. The English, with
+their earnest and enterprising character, were convinced of its
+importance in the development of their commerce, and determined upon
+its exploration. But before proceeding to the narrative of the
+adventures of Major Houghton and Mungo Park, we will devote a small
+space to the record of the work done by the French naturalist, Michel
+Adanson.
+
+Devoted from early youth to the study of natural history, Adanson
+wished to become famous by the discovery of new species. It was
+hopeless to dream of obtaining them in Europe, and, in spite of
+opposition, Adanson selected Senegal as the field of his labours. He
+says, in a manuscript letter, that he chose it because it was the most
+difficult to explore of all European settlements, and, being the
+hottest, most unhealthy, and most dangerous, was the least known by
+naturalists. Certainly a choice founded upon such reasoning gave proof
+of rare courage and ambition.
+
+It is true that Adanson was by no means the first naturalist to
+encounter similar dangers, but he was the first to undertake them,
+with so much enthusiasm, at his own cost, and without hope of reward.
+Upon his return, he had not sufficient money to pay for the
+publication of his account of the discoveries he had made.
+
+Embarking upon the 3rd of March, 1749, on board the _Chevalier Marin_,
+commanded by D'Apres de Mannevillette, he touched at Santa Cruz,
+Teneriffe, and disembarked at the mouth of the Senegal, which he took
+to be the Niger of ancient geographers. During nearly five years he
+was engaged in exploring the colony in every direction, visiting in
+turn Podor, Portudal, Albreda, and the mouth of the Gambia. With
+unceasing perseverance, he collected a rich harvest of facts in the
+animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms.
+
+To him is due the first exact account of a gigantic tree called the
+Baobab, which is often called Adansonia after him; of the habits of
+the grasshoppers, which form the chief food of certain wild tribes; of
+the white ants, and the dwellings they construct; and of a certain
+kind of oyster, which attach themselves to trees at the mouth of the
+Gambia. He says,--
+
+"The natives have not the difficulty one might anticipate in catching
+them; they simply cut off the bough to which they cling. They often
+cluster to the number of over two hundred on one branch, and if there
+are several branches, they form a bunch of oysters such as a man could
+scarcely carry."
+
+[Illustration: The Baobab.]
+
+In spite of the interest of these and similar discoveries, there are
+few new facts for the geographer to glean. A few words about the
+Yolofs and Mandingoes comprise all there is to learn. If we followed
+Adanson throughout his explorations, we should gain little fresh
+information.
+
+The same cannot be said of the expedition of which we are about to
+give some account. Major Houghton, captain in the 69th regiment, and
+English Governor of the Fort of Goree, had been familiar from his
+youth, part of which was passed with the English Embassy in Morocco,
+with the manners and customs of the Moors and the negroes of
+Senegambia. In 1790, he proposed to the African Society to explore the
+course of the Niger, penetrate as far as Timbuctoo and Houssa, and
+return by way of the Sahara. The carrying out of this bold plan met
+with but one obstacle, but that was almost sufficient to upset it.
+
+Houghton left England upon the 16th of October, 1790, and anchored in
+Jillifree harbour, at the mouth of the Gambia, upon the 10th of
+November. Well received by the King of Barra, he followed the course
+of the Gambia to a distance of three hundred leagues, traversed the
+remainder of Senegambia, and reached Gonda Konda in Yanvi.
+
+Walknaer, in his "History of Voyages," says, "He purchased a negro, a
+horse, and five asses, and prepared to proceed with the merchandise
+which was to pay his expenses to Mendana, the capital of the little
+kingdom of Woolli. Fortunately his slight knowledge of the Mandingo
+language enabled him to understand a negress who was speaking of a
+plot against him. The merchants trading on the river, imagining
+commerce to be his sole object, and fearing that he might compete with
+them, had determined upon his death.
+
+"In order to avoid the threatened danger, he thought it wise to
+deviate from the usual route, and, accordingly, crossed the river with
+his asses, and reached the northern shore in the kingdom of Cantor."
+
+Houghton then crossed the river a second time, and entered the kingdom
+of Woolli. He at once sent a messenger to the king, bearing presents,
+and asking for protection. He was cordially received, and the
+traveller was welcomed to Mendana, the capital, which he describes as
+an important town, situated in the midst of a fertile country, in
+which many herds of cattle graze.
+
+Houghton was justified in anticipating a successful issue to his
+voyage; everything appeared to presage it, when an event occurred
+which was the first blow to his hopes. A hut next that in which he
+slept took fire, and the whole town was soon in flames. His
+interpreter, who had made several attempts to rob him, seized this
+opportunity, and fled with a horse and three asses.
+
+Still the King of Woolli continued his protection of the traveller,
+and loaded him with presents, precious not on account of their value,
+but as signs of the good-will which they demonstrated. This friend of
+the Europeans was named Djata. Humane, intelligent, and good-hearted,
+he wished the English to establish a factory in his kingdom.
+
+Houghton, in a letter to his wife, says,--
+
+"Captain Littleton, during a stay of four years here, has amassed a
+considerable fortune. He possesses several ships which trade up and
+down the river. At any time one can obtain, for the merest trifle,
+gold, ivory, wax, and slaves. Poultry, sheep, eggs, butter, milk,
+honey, and fish are extremely abundant, and for ten pounds sterling a
+large family might be maintained in luxury. The soil is dry, the air
+very healthy; and the King of Woolli told me that no white man had
+ever died at Fataconda."
+
+Houghton then followed the Faleme river as far as Cacullo, which in
+D'Anville's map is called Cacoulon, and whilst in Bambouk gleaned a
+few facts about the Djoliba river, which runs through the interior of
+the Soudan. The direction of this river he ascertained to be southward
+as far as Djeneh, then west by east to Timbuctoo--facts which were
+later confirmed by Mungo Park. The traveller was cordially received by
+the King of Bambouk, who provided him with a guide to Timbuctoo, and
+with cowries to pay his expenses during the journey. It was hoped that
+Houghton would reach the Niger without accident, when a note, written
+in pencil and half effaced, reached Dr. Laidley. It was dated from
+Simbing, and stated that the traveller had been robbed of his baggage,
+but that he was prosecuting his journey to Timbuctoo. This was
+followed by accounts from various sources, which gave rise to a
+suspicion that Houghton had been assassinated in Bambara. His fate was
+uncertain until it was discovered by Mungo Park.
+
+Walknaer says,--
+
+"Simbing, where Houghton wrote the last words ever received from him,
+is a little walled town on the frontier of the kingdom of Ludamar.
+Here he was abandoned by his negro servants, who were unwilling to
+accompany him to the country of the Moors. Still he continued his
+route, and, after surmounting many obstacles, he advanced to the north,
+and endeavoured to cross the kingdom of Ludamar. Finally he reached
+Yaouri, and made the acquaintance of several merchants, on their way
+to sell salt at Tischet, a town situated near the marshes of the great
+desert, and six days' journey north of Yaouri. Then, by bribing the
+merchants with a gun and a little tobacco, he persuaded them to
+conduct him to Tischet. All this would lead us to suppose that the
+Moors deceived him, either as to the route he should have followed, or
+as to the state of the country between Yaouri and Timbuctoo.
+
+"After two days' march, Houghton, finding himself deceived, wished to
+return to Yaouri. The Moors robbed him of all he possessed, and fled.
+He was forced to reach Yaouri on foot. Did he die of hunger, or was he
+assassinated by the Moors? This has never been rightly determined, but
+the spot where he perished was pointed out to Mungo Park."
+
+The loss of Houghton's journals, containing the observations made
+during his journey, deprived science of the result of all his fatigue
+and devotion. To ascertain what he accomplished, one must have
+recourse to the _Proceedings of the African Society_. At this time
+Mungo Park, a young Scotch surgeon, who had just returned from a
+voyage to the East Indies on board the _Worcester_, learnt that the
+African Society were anxious to find an explorer willing to penetrate
+to the interior of the country watered by the Gambia. Mungo Park, who
+had long wished to acquaint himself with the productions of the
+country, and the manners and customs of the inhabitants, offered his
+services. He was not deterred by the apprehension that his predecessor,
+Houghton, had probably perished.
+
+[Illustration: Portrait of Mungo Park. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+At once accepted by the Society, Mungo Park hastened his preparations,
+and left Portsmouth upon the 22nd of May, 1795. He was furnished with
+introductions to Dr. Laidley, and a credit of two hundred pounds
+sterling. Landing at Jillifree, at the mouth of the Gambia, in the
+kingdom of Barra, and following the river, he reached Pisania, an
+English factory belonging to Dr. Laidley. He directed his attention
+first to acquiring a knowledge of the Mandingo language, which was
+most generally used, and in collecting the facts most likely to be
+useful in the execution of his plans.
+
+His stay here enabled him to obtain more accurate information than his
+predecessors with regard to the Feloups, the Yolofs, the Foulahs, and
+the Mandingoes. The Feloups are morose, quarrelsome, and vindictive,
+but faithful and courageous. The Yolofs are a powerful and warlike
+nation, with very black skins. Except in colour and speech, they
+resemble the Mandingoes, who are gentle and sociable. Tall and
+well-made, their women are, comparatively speaking, pretty. Lastly,
+the Foulahs, who are the lightest in colour, seem much attached to a
+pastoral and agricultural life. The greater part of these populations
+are Mohammedans, and practise polygamy.
+
+Upon the 2nd of December, Mungo Park, accompanied by two negro
+interpreters, and with a small quantity of baggage, started for the
+interior. He first reached the small kingdom of Woolli, the capital of
+which, Medina, comprises a thousand houses. He then proceeded to Kolor,
+a considerable town, and, after two days' march across a desert,
+entered the kingdom of Bondou. The natives are Foulahs, professing the
+Mohammedan religion; they carry on a brisk trade in ivory, when they
+are not engaged in agriculture.
+
+The traveller soon reached the Faleme river, the bed of which, near
+its source in the mountains of Dalaba, is very auriferous. He was
+received by the king at Fataconda, the capital of Bondou, and had
+great difficulty in convincing him that he travelled from curiosity.
+His interview with the wives of the monarch is thus described. Mungo
+Park says,--
+
+"I had scarcely entered the court, when I was surrounded by the entire
+seraglio. Some begged me for physic, some for amber, and all were most
+desirous of trying the great African specific of _blood-letting_. They
+are ten or twelve in number, most of them young and handsome, wearing
+on their heads ornaments of gold or pieces of amber. They rallied me a
+good deal upon different subjects, particularly upon the whiteness of
+my skin and the length of my nose. They insisted that both were
+artificial. The first, they said, was produced, when I was an infant,
+by dipping me in milk, and they insisted that my nose had been pinched
+every day till it had acquired its present unsightly and unnatural
+conformation."
+
+Leaving Bondou by the north, Mungo Park entered Kajaaga, called by the
+French Galam. The climate of this picturesque country, watered by the
+Senegal, is far healthier than that of districts nearer the coast. The
+natives call themselves Serawoullis, and are called Seracolets by the
+French. The colour of their skin is jet black, and in this respect
+they are scarcely distinguishable from the Yolofs.
+
+Mungo Park says, "The Serawoollis are habitually a trading people.
+They formerly carried on a great commerce with the French in gold-dust
+and slaves, and still often supply the British factories on the Gambia
+with slaves. They are famous for the skill and honesty with which they
+do business."
+
+[Illustration: Natives of Senegal.]
+
+At Joag, Mungo Park was relieved of half his property by the envoys of
+the king, under pretence of making him pay for the right to pass
+through his kingdom. Fortunately for him, the nephew of
+Demba-Jego-Jalla, King of Kasson, who was about to return to his
+country, took him under his protection. They reached Gongadi, where
+there are extensive date plantations, together, and thence proceeded
+to Samia, on the shores of the Senegal, on the frontiers of Kasson.
+
+The first town met with in this kingdom was that of Tiesie, which was
+reached by Mungo Park on the 31st of December. Well received by the
+natives, who sold him the provisions he needed at a reasonable price,
+the traveller was subjected by the brother and nephew of the king to
+endless indignities.
+
+Leaving this town upon the 10th of January, 1796, Mungo Park reached
+Kouniakari, the capital of Kasson--a fertile, rich, and well-populated
+country, which can place forty thousand men under arms. The king, full
+of kindly feeling for the traveller, wished him to remain in his
+kingdom as long as the wars between Kasson and Kajaaga lasted. It was
+more than probable that the countries of Kaarta and Bambara, which
+Mungo Park wished to visit, would be drawn into it. The advice of the
+king to remain was prudent, and Park had soon reason enough to regret
+not having followed it.
+
+But, impatient to reach the interior, the traveller would not listen,
+and entered the level and sandy plains of Kaarta. He met crowds of
+natives on the journey who were flying to Kasson to escape the horrors
+of war. But even this did not deter him; he continued his journey
+until he reached the capital of Kaarta, which is situated in a fertile
+and open plain.
+
+He was kindly received by the king, Daisy Kourabari, who endeavoured
+to dissuade him from entering Bambara, and, finding all his arguments
+useless, advised him to avoid passing through the midst of the fray,
+by entering the kingdom of Ludamar, inhabited by Moors. From thence he
+could proceed to Bambara.
+
+During his journey Mungo Park noticed negroes who fed principally upon
+a sort of bread made from the berries of the lotus, which tasted not
+unlike gingerbread. This plant, the _rhamnus lotus_, is indigenous in
+Senegambia, Nigritia, and Tunis.
+
+"So," says Mungo Park, "there can be little doubt of this fruit being
+the lotus mentioned by Pliny as the food of the Lybian Lotophagi. I
+have tasted lotus bread, and think that an army may very easily have
+been fed with it, as is said by Pliny to have been done in Lybia. The
+taste of the bread is so sweet and agreeable, that the soldiers would
+not be likely to complain of it."
+
+On the 22nd February, Mungo Park reached Jarra, a considerable town,
+with houses built of stone, inhabited by negroes from the south who
+had placed themselves under the protection of the Moors, to whom they
+paid considerable tribute. From Ali, King of Ludamar, the traveller
+obtained permission to travel in safety through his dominions. But, in
+spite of this safe-conduct, Park was almost entirely despoiled by the
+fanatical Moors of Djeneh. At Sampaka and Dalli, large towns, and at
+Samea, a small village pleasantly situated, he was so cordially
+welcomed that he already saw himself in fancy arrived in the interior
+of Africa, when a troop of soldiers appeared, who led him to Benown,
+the camp of King Ali.
+
+"Ali," says Mungo Park, "was sitting upon a black morocco cushion,
+clipping a few hairs on his upper lip--a female attendant holding a
+looking-glass before him. He was an old man of Arab race, with a long
+white beard, and he looked sullen and angry. He surveyed me with
+attention, and inquired of the Moors if I could speak Arabic. Being
+answered in the negative, he appeared surprised, and continued silent.
+The surrounding attendants, and especially ladies, were much more
+inquisitive. They asked a thousand questions, inspected every part of
+my apparel, searched my pockets, and obliged me to unbutton my
+waistcoat to display the whiteness of my skin. They even counted my
+toes and fingers, as if they doubted whether I was in truth a human
+being."
+
+An unprotected stranger, a Christian, and accounted a spy, Mungo Park
+was a victim to the insolence, ferocity, and fanaticism of the Moors.
+He was spared neither insults, outrages, nor blows. They attempted to
+make a barber of him, but his awkwardness in cutting the hairy face of
+the king's son exempted him from this degrading occupation. During his
+captivity he collected many particulars regarding Timbuctoo, which is
+so difficult of access to Europeans, and was the bourne of all early
+African explorers.
+
+"Houssa," a scherif told him, "is the largest town I have ever seen.
+Walet is larger than Timbuctoo, but as it is farther from the Niger,
+and its principal trade is in salt, few strangers are met there. From
+Benown to Walet is a distance of six days' journey. No important town
+is passed between the two, and the traveller depends for sustenance
+upon the milk procurable from Arabs, whose flocks and herds graze
+about the wells and springs. The road leads for two days through a
+sandy desert, where not a drop of water is to be had."
+
+It takes eleven days to go from Walet to Timbuctoo, but water is not
+so scarce on this journey, which is generally made upon oxen. At
+Timbuctoo there are a number of Jews who speak Arabic, and use the
+same forms of prayer as the Moors.
+
+[Illustration: Map of Western Africa.]
+
+The events of the war decided Ali to proceed to Jarra. Mungo Park, who
+had succeeded in making friends with the sultan's favourite, Fatima,
+obtained permission to accompany the king. The traveller hoped, by
+nearing the scene of action, to manage to escape. As it happened, the
+King of Kaarta, Daisy Kourabari, soon after marched against the town
+of Jarra. The larger number of inhabitants fled, and Mungo Park did
+the same.
+
+He soon found means to get away, but his interpreter refused to
+accompany him. He was forced to start for Bambara alone, and destitute
+of resources.
+
+The first town he came to was Wawra, which properly belongs to Kaarta,
+but was then paying tribute to Mansong, King of Bambara. Mungo Park
+says,--
+
+"Upon the morning of the 7th of July, as I was about to depart, my
+landlord, with a great deal of diffidence, begged me to give him a
+lock of my hair. He had been told, he said, that white men's hair made
+a _saphic_ (talisman) that would give the possessor all the knowledge
+of the white man. I had never before heard of so simple a mode of
+education, but I at once complied with the request; and my landlord's
+thirst for learning was so great that he cut and pulled at my hair
+till he had cropped one side of my head pretty closely, and would have
+done the same with the other had I not signified my disapprobation,
+assuring him that I wished to reserve some of this precious material
+for a future occasion."
+
+First Gallon and then Mourja, a large town, famous for its trade in
+salt, were passed, after fatigues and incredible privations. Upon
+nearing Sego, Mungo Park at last perceived the Djoliba. "Looking
+forward," he says, "I saw, with infinite pleasure, the great object of
+my mission--the long-sought-for, majestic Niger, glittering in the
+morning sun, as broad as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing slowly
+to the eastward. I hastened to the brink, and, having drunk of the
+water, lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer to the Great Ruler of all
+things for having thus far crowned my endeavours with success.
+
+"The fact of the Niger flowing towards the east did not, however,
+excite my surprise; for, although I had left Europe in great
+hesitation on this subject, and rather believed it ran in the contrary
+direction, I had made frequent inquiries during my progress, and had
+received from negroes of different nations such clear and decisive
+assurances that its course _was towards the rising sun_ as scarce left
+any doubt in my mind, more especially as I knew that Major Houghton
+had collected similar information in a similar manner.
+
+"Sego, the capital of Bambara, at which I had now arrived, consists,
+properly speaking, of four distinct towns; two on the northern bank of
+the river, called Sego Korro and Sego Boo, and two on the southern
+bank, called Sego Sou Korro and Sego See Korro. They are all
+surrounded with high mud walls; the houses are built of clay, of a
+square form, with flat roofs; some of them have two stories, and many
+of them are whitewashed. Besides these buildings, Moorish mosques are
+seen in every quarter, and the streets, though narrow, are broad
+enough for every practical purpose in a country where wheel carriages
+are unknown. From the best information I could obtain, I have reason
+to believe that Sego contains altogether about thirty thousand
+inhabitants. The king of Bambara resides permanently at Sego See
+Korro; he employs a great many slaves in conveying people over the
+river; and the money they take, though the fare is only ten cowries
+for each person, furnishes a considerable revenue to the king in the
+course of a year."
+
+By advice of the Moors, the king refused to receive the traveller, and
+forbade him to remain in his capital, where he could not have
+protected him from ill-treatment. However, to divest his refusal of
+all appearance of ill-will, he sent him a bag containing 5000 cowries,
+of the value of about a pound sterling, to buy provisions. The
+messenger sent by the king was to serve as guide as far as Sansanding.
+Protest and anger were alike impossible; Mungo Park could do nothing
+but follow the orders sent. Before reaching Sansanding, he was present
+at the harvest of vegetable butter, which is the produce of a tree
+called Shea.
+
+"These trees," says the narrative, "grow in great abundance all over
+this part of Bambara. They are not planted by the natives, but are
+found growing naturally in the woods; and, in clearing land for
+cultivation, every tree is cut down but the shea. The tree itself very
+much resembles the American oak; the fruit--from the kernel of which,
+after it has been dried in the sun, the butter is prepared by boiling
+in water--has somewhat the appearance of a Spanish olive. The kernel
+is imbedded in a sweet pulp, under a thin green rind, and the butter
+produced from it, besides the advantage of keeping a whole year
+without salt, is whiter, firmer, and, to my palate, of a richer
+flavour than the best butter I ever tasted from cows' milk. It is a
+chief article of the inland commerce of these districts."
+
+Sansanding, a town containing from eight to ten thousand inhabitants,
+is a market-place much frequented by the Moors, who bring glass-ware
+from the Mediterranean forts, which they exchange for gold-dust and
+cotton. Mungo Park was not able to remain at this place, for the
+importunities of the natives and the perfidious insinuations of the
+Moors warned him to continue his route. His horse was so worn out by
+fatigue and privation that he felt obliged to embark on the river
+Djoliba or Niger.
+
+At Mourzan, a fishing village upon the northern bank of the river,
+everything combined to induce Park to relinquish his enterprise. The
+further he advanced to the eastward down the river, the more he placed
+himself in the power of the Moors. The rainy season had commenced, and
+it would soon be impossible to travel otherwise than by boat. Mungo
+Park was now so poor that he could not even hire a boat; he was forced
+to rely upon public charity.
+
+To advance further under these circumstances was not only to risk his
+life, but to place the results of all his fatigues and efforts in
+jeopardy. To return to Gambia was scarcely less perilous; to do so he
+must traverse hundreds of miles on foot through hostile countries.
+Still the hope of returning home might sustain his courage.
+
+"Before leaving Silla," says the traveller, "I thought it incumbent on
+me to collect from the Moorish and negro traders all the information I
+could concerning the further course of the Niger eastward, and the
+situation and extent of the kingdoms in its neighbourhood.
+
+"Two days' journey eastward of Silla is the town of Djenneh, which is
+situated on a small island in the river, and is said to contain as
+many inhabitants as Sego itself, or any other town in Bambara. At a
+distance of two days' more, the river widens and forms a considerable
+lake, called Dibby (or the dark lake), concerning the extent of which,
+all I could learn was that, in crossing it from east to west, the
+canoes lose sight of land for one whole day. From this lake the water
+issues in many different streams, which finally become two branches,
+one flowing to the north-east, the other to the east; but these
+branches join at Kabra, which is one day's journey to the south of
+Timbuctoo, and is the port or shipping-place of that city. The tract
+of land between the two streams is called Timbala, and is inhabited by
+negroes. The whole distance by land from Djenneh to Timbuctoo is
+twelve days' journey. North-east of Masena is the kingdom of Timbuctoo,
+the great object of European research, the capital of the kingdom
+being one of the principal marts for the extensive commerce which the
+Moors carry on with the negroes. The hope of acquiring wealth in this
+pursuit, and zeal for propagating their religion, have filled this
+extensive city with Moors. The king himself and all the chief officers
+of his court are Moors, and are said to be more intolerant and severe
+in their principles than any other of the Moorish tribes in this part
+of Africa."
+
+Mungo Park was then forced to retrace his steps, and that through a
+country devastated by inundation and heavy rains. He passed through
+Mourzan, Kea, and Modibon, where he regained his horse; Nyara,
+Sansanding, Samea, and Sai, which is surrounded by a deep moat, and
+protected by high walls with square towers; Jabbea, a large town, from
+which he perceived high mountain ranges, and Taffara, where he was
+received with little hospitality.
+
+At the village of Souha, Park begged a handful of grain of a "dooty,"
+who answered that he had nothing to give away.
+
+"Whilst I was examining the face of this inhospitable old man, and
+endeavouring to find out the cause of the sullen discontent which was
+visible in his eye, he called to a slave who was working in the
+corn-field at a little distance, and ordered him to bring his spade
+with him. The Dooty then told him to dig a hole in the ground,
+pointing to a spot at no great distance. The slave with his spade
+began to dig in the earth, and the Dooty, who appeared to be a man of
+very fretful disposition, kept muttering to himself until the pit was
+almost finished, when he repeatedly pronounced the word _ankatod_
+(good for nothing), _jankra lemen_ (a regular plague), which
+expressions I thought applied to myself. As the pit had very much the
+appearance of a grave, I thought it prudent to mount my horse, and was
+about to decamp when the slave, who had gone before to the village,
+returned with the corpse of a boy about nine or ten years of age,
+quite naked. The negro carried the body by an arm and leg, and threw
+it into the pit with a savage indifference such as I had never seen.
+As he covered the body with earth, the Dooty kept repeating _naphula
+attemata_ (money lost), whence I concluded the boy had been his
+slave."
+
+Mungo Park left Koulikorro, where he had obtained food by writing
+saphics or talismans for the natives, upon the 21st of August, and
+reached Bammakoa, where a large salt-market is held. From an eminence
+near the town he perceived a high mountain range in the kingdom of
+Kong, whose ruler had a more numerous army than the King of Bambara.
+
+Once more robbed by brigands of all he possessed, the unfortunate
+traveller found himself, in the rainy season, alone in a vast desert,
+five leagues from the nearest European settlement, and for the moment
+gave way to despair. But his courage soon revived; and reaching the
+town of Sibidoulou, his horse and clothes, which had been stolen from
+him by Foulah robbers, were restored to him by the _mansa_, or chief.
+Kamalia, or Karfa Taura advised him to await the cessation of the
+rainy season, and then to proceed to Gambia with a caravan of slaves.
+Worn out, destitute, attacked by fever, which for five months kept him
+prostrate, Mungo Park had no choice but to remain in this place.
+
+Upon the 19th of April the caravan set out. We can readily imagine the
+joy experienced by Mungo Park when all was ready. Crossing the desert
+of Jallonka, and passing first the principal branch of the Senegal
+river, and then the Faleme, the caravan finally reached the shores of
+the Gambia, and on the 12th of June, 1797, Mungo Park once more
+arrived at Pisania, where he was warmly welcomed by Dr. Laidley, who
+had despaired of ever seeing him again.
+
+The traveller returned to England upon the 22nd of September. So great
+was the impatience with which an account of his discoveries, certainly
+the most important in this part of Africa, was awaited, that the
+African Society allowed him to publish for his own profit an abridged
+account of his adventures.
+
+He had collected more facts as to the geography, manners, and customs
+of the country than all preceding travellers; he had determined the
+position of the sources of the Senegal and Gambia, and surveyed the
+course of the Niger or Djoliba--which he proved to run eastwards,
+whilst the Gambia flowed to the west.
+
+Thus a point, which up to this time had been disputed by geographers,
+was definitely settled. It was no longer possible to confound the
+three rivers, as the French geographer Delisle had done, in 1707, when
+he represented the Niger as running eastward from Bornu, and flowing
+into the river Senegal on the west. He himself, however, had admitted
+and corrected this error, in his later maps of 1722 and 1727, no doubt
+on account of the facts ascertained by Andre Brue, governor of Senegal.
+
+Houghton, indeed, had learned much from the natives of the course of
+the Niger through the Mandingo country, and of the relative positions
+of Sego, Djenneh, and Timbuctoo; but it was reserved for Mungo Park to
+fix positively, from personal knowledge, the position of the two
+first-named towns, and to furnish circumstantial details of the
+country, and the tribes who inhabit it.
+
+Public opinion was unanimous as to the importance of the great
+traveller's exploration, and keenly appreciative of the courage, skill,
+and honesty exhibited by him.
+
+A short time later, the English government offered Mungo Park the
+conduct of an expedition to the interior of Australia; but he refused
+it.
+
+In 1804, however, the African Society determined to complete the
+survey of the Niger, and proposed to Mungo Park the command of a new
+expedition for its exploration. This time the great traveller did not
+refuse, and upon the 30th of January, 1805, he left England. Two
+months later he landed at Goree.
+
+He was accompanied by his brother-in-law, Anderson, a surgeon, by
+George Scott, a draughtsman, and by thirty-five artillery-men. He was
+authorized to enrol as many soldiers as he liked in his service, and
+was provided with a credit of five hundred pounds.
+
+"These resources," says Walcknaer, "so vast in comparison with those
+furnished by the African Society, were, to our thinking, partly the
+cause of his loss. The rapacious demands of the African kings grew in
+proportion to the riches they supposed our traveller to possess; and
+the effort to meet the enormous drain made upon him, was in great part
+the cause of the catastrophe which brought the expedition to an end."
+
+Four carpenters, one officer and thirty-five artillery-men, and a
+Mandingo merchant named Isaac, who was to act as guide, with the
+leaders of the expedition already mentioned, composed an imposing
+caravan. Mungo Park left Cayee upon the 27th of April, 1805, and
+reached Pisania the next day. From this place, ten years earlier, he
+had started upon his first exploration. Taking an easterly direction,
+he followed his former route as far as Bambaku, upon the shores of the
+Niger. When he arrived at this place, the number of Europeans was
+already reduced to six soldiers and a carpenter; the remainder had
+succumbed to fatigue, or the fevers incidental to the inundations. The
+exactions of the various petty chiefs through whose domains the
+expedition passed had considerably diminished the stock of merchandise.
+
+Mungo Park was now guilty of an act of grave imprudence. Remarking
+that trade was very active at Sansanding, a town containing eleven
+thousand inhabitants, and that beads, indigo, antimony, rings,
+bracelets, and other articles not likely to be spoiled in the transit
+to England, were freely exhibited for sale, "he opened," says
+Walcknaer, "a large shop, which he stocked with European merchandise,
+for sale wholesale and retail; and probably the large profits he made
+excited the envy of the merchants. The natives of Djenneh, the Moors,
+and merchants of Sansanding, joined with those of Sego in offering, in
+the presence of Modibinne, to give the King of Mansong a larger and
+more valuable quantity of merchandise than he had received from the
+English traveller, if he would seize his baggage, and then kill him,
+or send him out of Bambarra. But in spite of his knowledge of this
+fact, Mungo Park still kept his shop open, and he received, as the
+proceeds of one single day's business, 25,756 pieces of money, or
+cowries."
+
+Upon the 28th of October Anderson expired, after four months' illness,
+and Mungo Park found himself once more alone in the heart of Africa.
+The King of Mansong had accorded him permission to build a boat, which
+would enable him to explore the Niger. Naming his craft the _Djoliba_,
+he fixed upon the 16th of November for his departure.
+
+Here his journal ends, with details on the riverside populations, and
+on the geography of the countries he was the first to discover. This
+journal, when it reached Europe, was published, imperfect as it was,
+as soon as the sad fact was realized that the writer had perished in
+the waters of the Djoliba. It contained in reality no new discovery,
+but it was recognized as useful to geographical science. Mungo Park
+had determined the astronomical position of the more important towns,
+and thereby furnished material for a map of Senegambia. The perfecting
+of this map was entrusted to Arrowsmith, who stated in an
+advertisement, that, finding wide differences between the positions of
+the towns as shown in the journal by each day's travel and that
+furnished by the astronomical observations, it was impossible to
+reconcile them; but that, in accordance with the latter, he had been
+obliged to place the route followed by Mungo Park in his first voyage
+farther north.
+
+It was reserved for the Frenchman Walcknaer to discover a curious
+discrepancy in Mungo Park's journal. This was a singular error upon
+the part of the traveller, which neither the English editor nor the
+French translator (whose work was badly performed) had discovered.
+Mungo Park in his diary records events as happening upon the 31st of
+April. As every one knows that that month has only thirty days, it
+followed that during the course of his journey the traveller had made
+a mistake of a whole day, reckoning in his calculations from the
+evening instead of the morning. Hence important rectifications were
+necessary in Arrowsmith's map; but none the less, when once Mungo
+Park's error is recognized, it is evident that to him we owe the first
+faithful map of Senegambia.
+
+Although the facts that reached the English Government allowed no room
+for doubt as to the fate of the traveller, a rumour that white men had
+been seen in the interior of Africa induced the Governor of Senegal to
+fit out an expedition. The command was entrusted to the negro merchant
+Isaac, Mungo Park's guide, who had faithfully delivered the
+traveller's journal to the English authorities. We need not linger
+over the account of this expedition, but merely relate that which
+concerns the last days of Mungo Park.
+
+At Sansanding, Isaac encountered Amadi Fatouma, the native who was
+with Park on the _Djoliba_ when he perished, and from him he obtained
+the following recital:--
+
+"We embarked at Sansanding, and in two days reached Silla, the spot
+where Mungo Park completed his first journey.
+
+"After two days' navigation we reached Djenneh. In passing Dibby,
+three boats, filled with negroes armed with lances and arrows, but
+without fire-arms, approached us. We had passed successively Racbara
+and Timbuctoo, when we were pursued by these boats, which we repulsed
+with difficulty, and only after killing several natives. At Gourouma
+we were attacked by seven boats, but succeeded in repulsing them.
+Constant skirmishes ensued, with heavy loss to the blacks, until we
+reached Kaffo, where we remained for a day. We then proceeded down the
+river as far as Carmusse, and anchored off Gournou. Next day we
+perceived a Moorish detachment, who allowed us to pass.
+
+"We then entered the country of Houssa. Next day we reached Yaouri,
+and sent Amadi Fatouma into the town, with presents for the chief and
+to purchase food. The negro, before accepting the presents, enquired
+if the white traveller intended to revisit his country. Mungo Park, to
+whom the question was reported, replied that he should never return."
+
+It is supposed that these words brought about his death. The negro
+chief, once convinced that he should not see Mungo Park again,
+determined to keep the presents intended for his king.
+
+Meantime, Amadi Fatouma reached the king's residence, at some distance
+from the river. The prince, warned of the presence of the white men,
+sent an army next day to the small village of Boussa, on the river
+side. When the _Djoliba_ appeared it was assailed by a shower of
+stones and arrows. Park threw his baggage into the river, and jumped
+in with his companions. All perished.
+
+Thus miserably died the first Englishman who had navigated the Djoliba
+and visited Timbuctoo. Many efforts were made in the same direction,
+but almost all were destined to fail.
+
+At the end of the eighteenth century, two of Linnaeus's best pupils
+explored the south of Africa in the interests of natural history.
+Sparrman undertook to search for animals, and Thunberg for plants. The
+account of Sparrman's expedition, which, as we have said, was
+interrupted by his voyage in Oceania, after Cook's expedition, was the
+first to appear. It was translated into French by Le Tourneur. In his
+preface, which is still allowed to stand, Le Tourneur deplored the
+loss of the learned explorer, who he said had died during a voyage to
+the Gold Coast. Just as the work was published, Sparrman reappeared,
+to the great astonishment of Le Tourneur.
+
+Sparrman had reached Africa upon the 30th of April, 1772, and landed
+at the Cape of Good Hope. At this time the town was only two miles
+across each way, including the gardens and plantations adjoining it on
+one side. The streets were wide, planted with oaks, and the houses
+were white, or, to Sparrman's surprise, painted green.
+
+His object in visiting the Cape was to act as tutor to the children of
+a M. Kerste; but upon his arrival in Cape Town, he found that his
+employer was absent at his winter residence in False Bay. When the
+spring came round, Sparrman accompanied Kerste to Alphen, a property
+which he possessed near Constance. The naturalist availed himself of
+the opportunity to make many excursions in the neighbourhood, and
+attempt the somewhat dangerous ascent of the Table Mountain. By these
+means he became acquainted with the manners and customs of the Boers,
+and their treatment of their slaves. The violence of the latter was so
+great that the inhabitants of the town were obliged to sleep with
+locked doors, and provided with fire-arms close at hand.
+
+Nearly all over the colony a rough hospitality ensured a certain
+welcome for the traveller. Sparrman relates several curious
+experiences of his own.
+
+"I arrived one evening," he says, "at the dwelling of a farmer named
+Van der Spooei, a widower, born in Africa, and father of the
+proprietor of the Red Constance, or the Old Constance.
+
+"Making believe not to see me approach, he remained stationary in the
+entry of his house. As I approached him, he offered his hand, still
+without attempting to come forward, and said, 'Good day! You are
+welcome! How are you? _Who_ are you? A glass of wine perhaps? or a
+pipe? Will you partake of something?' I answered his questions
+laconically, and accepted his offers in the same style as they were
+offered. His daughter, a well-made girl of some fourteen or fifteen
+years of age, brought in dinner, which consisted of a fine breast of
+lamb, stewed with carrots. The meal over, she offered me tea so
+pleasantly that I was quite puzzled whether to admire the dinner or my
+charming hostess the most. Both father and daughter showed the
+greatest kindness and good will. I spoke to my host several times, in
+hopes of breaking his silence; but his replies were brief; and I
+observed that he only once commenced a conversation himself, when he
+pressed me to remain over night in his house. I bid him farewell,
+deeply impressed with his hospitality."
+
+Sparrman undertook several similar expeditions, among others, one to
+Hout Bay and Paarl, in which he had frequent occasion to notice the
+exaggerations to be met with in the narrative of Kolbe, his
+predecessor.
+
+He intended to continue his explorations during the winter, and
+projected a journey into the interior, when the fine season should
+return. When the frigates commanded by Captain Cook, the _Resolution_
+and _Adventure_, arrived at the Cape, Forster invited the young
+Swedish naturalist to accompany him; and Sparrman was thus enabled to
+visit New Zealand, Van Diemen's Land, New Holland, Otaheite, Tierra
+del Fuego, the Antarctic Regions, and New Georgia, before his return
+to the Cape, where he landed on the 22nd of March, 1775.
+
+His first care upon his return was to organize his expedition to the
+interior; and in order to add to his available resources he practised
+medicine and surgery during the winter. A cargo of corn, medicine,
+knives, tinder-boxes, and spirits for the preservation of specimens
+was collected, and packed in an immense waggon, drawn by five yoke of
+oxen.
+
+Sparrman says,--
+
+"The conductor of this cart needs dexterity, not only in his
+management of the animals, but in the use of the whip of African
+drivers. These instruments are about fifteen feet long, with a thong
+of the same or greater length, and a tongue of white leather almost
+three feet long. The driver holds this formidable instrument in both
+hands, and from his seat in front of the waggon can reach the foremost
+oxen with it. He distributes his cuts unceasingly, well understanding
+how and where to distribute them in such a manner that the hide of the
+animals feels the whip."
+
+Sparrman was to accompany the waggon on horseback, and was accompanied
+by a young colonist, named Immelman, who wished to penetrate into the
+interior for recreation. They started upon the 25th of July, 1775.
+After passing Rent River, scaling the Hottentot Holland Kloof, and
+crossing the Palmite, they entered a desert country, interspersed with
+plains, mountains, and valleys, without water, but frequented by
+antelopes of various kinds, with zebras and ostriches.
+
+Sparrman soon reached the warm mineral baths at the foot of the
+Zwartberg, which, at that time, were much frequented, the company
+having built a house near the mountains. At this point the explorer
+was joined by young Immelman, and together they started for Zwellendam,
+which they reached upon the 2nd of September. We will give a few of
+the facts they collected about the inhabitants.
+
+The Hottentots are as tall as Europeans, their hands and feet are
+small, and their colour a brownish yellow. They have not the thick
+lips of the Kaffirs and natives of Mozambique. Their hair is black and
+woolly, curly, but not thick. They rub the entire body with fat and
+soot. A Hottentot who paints himself looks less naked, and more
+complete, so to say, than one who only rubs himself with grease. Hence
+the saying, "A Hottentot without paint, is like a shoe without
+blacking."
+
+[Illustration: A Hottentot. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+These natives usually wear a cloak called karos, made of sheep's skin,
+with the wool turned inwards. The women arrange it with a long point,
+which forms a sort of hood, in which they place their children. Both
+men and women wear leather rings upon their arms and legs--a custom,
+which gave rise to the fable that this race rolled puddings round
+their limbs, to feed on from time to time. They also wear copper and
+iron rings, but these ornaments are less common.
+
+The kraal, or Hottentot village, is a collection of huts in a circle,
+all very similar, and of the shape of beehives. The doors, which are
+in the centre, are so low that they can only be entered on the knees.
+The hearth is in the middle of the hut, and the roof has no hole for
+the escape of the smoke.
+
+The Hottentots must not be confounded with the Bushmen. The latter
+live only for hunting and robbery; their skill in throwing poisoned
+arrows, their courage, and the wildness of their lives, render them
+invincible.
+
+At Zwellendam, Sparrman saw the quagga, a species of horse, like a
+zebra in shape, but with shorter ears.
+
+The explorer next visited Mossel Bay, a harbour little used, as it is
+too much exposed to the west winds; and thence he proceeded to the
+country of the Houtniquas, or, as Burchell's map calls them, the
+Antiniquas. This woody country appeared fertile, and the colonists
+established there are prosperous. Sparrman met with most of the
+quadrupeds of Africa in this district, such as elephants, leopards,
+lions, tiger cats, hyenas, monkeys, hares, antelopes, and gazelles.
+
+We will not attempt to follow Sparrman to all the small settlements he
+visited. An enumeration of the streams, kraals, or villages he passed
+would convey no information to the reader. Rather let us gather from
+his narratives a few curious and novel details concerning two
+creatures which he describes, the sheep of the Cape, and the
+"honey-guide."
+
+"When a sheep is to be killed," he says, "the very leanest of the
+flock is selected. It would be impossible to use the others for food.
+Their tails are of a triangular shape, and are often a foot and a half
+long, and occasionally six inches thick in the upper part. One of
+these tails will weigh eight or twelve pounds, and they consist
+principally of delicate fat, which some persons eat with bread instead
+of butter. It is used in the preparation of food, and sometimes to
+make candles."
+
+After describing the two-horned rhinoceros, hitherto unknown, the
+gnu--an animal in form something between the horse and the ox--the
+gazelle, the baboon, and the hippopotamus, the habits of which were
+previously imperfectly known, Sparrman describes a curious bird, of
+great service to the natives, which he calls the honey-guide.
+
+"This bird," he says, "is remarkable neither in size nor colour. At
+first sight it would be taken for a common sparrow, but it is a little
+larger than that bird, of a somewhat lighter colour, with a small
+yellow spot on each shoulder, and dashes of white in the wings and
+tail.
+
+"In its own interests, this bird leads the natives to the bees' nests,
+for it is very fond of honey, and it knows that whenever a nest is
+destroyed, a little honey will be spilled, or left behind, as a
+recompense for its services.
+
+"It seems to grow hungry in the morning and evening. In any case, it
+is then that it leaves its nest, and by its piercing cries attracts
+the attention of the Hottentots or the colonists. The cries are almost
+always answered by the appearance of natives or settlers, when the
+bird, repeating its call unceasingly, slowly flies from place to place
+towards the spot where the bees have made their home. Arrived at the
+nest, whether it be in the cleft of a rock, in a hollow tree, or in
+some underground cavity, the guide hovers about it for a few seconds,
+and then perches hard by, and remains a silent and hidden spectator of
+the pillage, in which he hopes subsequently to have his share. Of this
+phenomenon I have myself twice been a witness."
+
+[Illustration: A Bosjeman. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+On the 12th of April, 1776, on his way back to the Cape, Sparrman
+heard that a large lake, the only one in the colony, had been
+discovered to the north of the Schneuwberg district. A little later,
+the traveller got back to the Cape, and embarked for Europe with the
+numerous natural history collections he had made.
+
+About the same time, between 1772-1775, Thunberg, the Swede, whom
+Sparrman had met at the Cape, made three successive journeys in the
+interior of Africa. They were not, any more than Sparrman's, actual
+journeys of discovery; and we owe the acquisition of no new
+geographical fact to Thunberg. He did but make a vast number of
+interesting observations on the birds of the Cape, and he also
+ascertained a few interesting details respecting the various races of
+the interior, which turned out to be far more fertile than was at
+first supposed.
+
+Thunberg was followed in the same latitudes by an English officer,
+Lieutenant William Paterson, whose chief aim was to collect plants and
+other objects of natural history. He penetrated a little further north
+than the Orange River, and into Kaffraria a good deal further east
+than Fish River. To him we owe the first notice of the giraffe; and
+his narrative is rich in important observations on the natural history,
+structure, and inhabitants of the country.
+
+It is a curious fact that the Europeans attracted to South Africa by
+zeal for geographical discovery, were far less numerous than those
+whose motive was love of natural history. We have already mentioned
+Sparrman, Thunberg, and Paterson. To this list we must now add the
+name of the ornithologist Le Vaillant.
+
+Born at Paramaribo, in Dutch Guiana, of French parents, who traded in
+birds, Le Vaillant visited Europe with them as a mere child, and
+traversed Holland, Germany, Lorraine, and the Vosges, on his way to
+Paris. It will readily be understood that this wandering life awoke in
+him a taste for travelling; and his passion for birds, early excited
+by the examination of private and public collections, made him eager
+to enrich science by descriptions and drawings of unknown species.
+
+Now what country would afford the richest ornithological harvest? The
+districts near the Cape had been explored by botanists, and by a
+scientific man who had made quadrupeds his chief study; but no one had
+as yet traversed them to collect birds.
+
+Le Vaillant arrived at the Cape on the 29th of March, 1781, after the
+loss of his vessel in an explosion, with nothing but the clothes he
+wore, ten ducats, and his gun.
+
+Others would have been disheartened, but Le Vaillant did not despair
+of extricating himself from his painful position. Confident in his
+skill with the gun and the bow, in his strength and agility, as well
+as in his skill in preparing the skins of animals, and in stuffing
+birds so that their plumage should retain all its original gloss, the
+naturalist had soon opened relations with the wealthiest collectors of
+the Cape.
+
+One of these, an official named Boers, provided Le Vaillant with every
+requisite for a successful journey, including carts, oxen, provisions,
+objects for barter, and horses. Even servants and guides were
+appointed, free of cost, to the explorer. The kind of researches to
+which Le Vaillant intended to devote himself influenced his mode of
+travelling. Instead of seeking frequented and beaten tracks, he tried
+to avoid them, and to penetrate into districts neglected by Europeans,
+hoping in them to meet with birds unknown to science. As a result he
+may be said always to have taken nature by surprise, coming into
+contact with natives whose manners had not yet been modified by
+intercourse with whites; so that the information he gives us brings
+savage life, as it really is, more vividly before us than anything
+told us by his predecessors or successors. The only mistake made by Le
+Vaillant was the entrusting of the translation of his notes to a young
+man who modified them to suit his own notions. Far from taking the
+scrupulous care to be exact which distinguishes modern editors, he
+exaggerated facts; and, dwelling too much on the personal qualities of
+the traveller, he gave to the narrative of the journey a boastful tone
+very prejudicial to it.
+
+After three months' stay at the Cape and in its neighbourhood, Le
+Vaillant started, on the 18th December, 1781, for a first journey
+eastwards, and in Kaffraria. His equipment this time consisted of
+thirty oxen--ten for each of his two waggons, and ten as
+reserve--three horses, nine dogs, and five Hottentots.
+
+Le Vaillant first crossed the Dutch districts already explored by
+Sparrman, where he met with vast herds of zebras, antelopes, and
+ostriches, arriving in due course at Zwellendam, where he bought some
+oxen, a cart, and a cock--the last serving as an alarm-clock
+throughout the journey. Another animal was also of great use to him.
+This was a monkey he had tamed, and promoted to the post, alike useful
+and honourable, of taster--no one being allowed to touch any fruit or
+root unknown to the Hottentots till Master Rees had given his verdict
+upon it.
+
+[Illustration: "Till Master Rees had given his verdict."]
+
+Rees was also employed as a sentinel; and his senses, sharpened by use
+and the struggle for life, exceeded in delicacy those of the most
+subtle Redskin. He it was who warned the dogs of the approach of
+danger. If a snake approached, or a troop of monkeys were disporting
+themselves in a neighbouring thicket, Rees' terror and his shrieks
+quickly revealed the presence of a disturbing element.
+
+From Zwellendam, which he left on the 12th January, 1782, Le Vaillant
+made his way eastwards, at some little distance from the sea. He
+pitched his camp on the banks of the Columbia (Duywen Hock) river and
+made many very successful hunting excursions in a district rich in
+game, finally reaching Mossel Bay, where the howls of innumerable
+hyenas frightened the oxen.
+
+A little farther on he entered the country of the Houtniquas, a
+Hottentot name signifying men filled with honey. Here not a step could
+be taken without coming upon swarms of bees. Flowers sprang up beneath
+the feet of the travellers; the air was heavy with their perfume;
+their varied colours lent such enchantment to the scene that some of
+the servants would have liked to halt. Le Vaillant however hastened to
+press on. The whole of this district, down to the sea, is occupied by
+colonists, who breed cattle, make butter, cultivate timber, and
+collect honey, sending their merchandise to the Cape for sale.
+
+A little beyond the last post of the company, Le Vaillant, having
+entered a district peopled by thousands of "turacos," and other rare
+birds, pitched his hunting camp; but his plans were terribly upset by
+the continuous fall of heavy rains, the result of which was to reduce
+the travellers to great straits for want of food.
+
+After many a sudden change of fortune and many hunting adventures, an
+account of which would be very amusing, though beyond the scope of our
+narrative, Le Vaillant reached Mossel Bay. Here, with what delight we
+can easily imagine, he found letters from France awaiting him. One
+excursion after another was now made in various directions, until
+Kaffraria was entered. It was difficult to open relations with its
+people, who sedulously avoided the whites, having suffered the loss of
+many men and much cattle at their hands. Moreover the Tamboukis had
+taken advantage of their critical position to invade Kaffraria and
+commit numerous depredations, whilst the Bosjemans hunted them down
+unmercifully. Without fire-arms, and attacked on so many sides at once,
+the Kaffirs were driven to hiding themselves, and were retiring
+northwards.
+
+[Illustration: A Kaffir woman. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+As matters stood it was useless to attempt to penetrate into the
+mountainous districts of Kaffraria, and Le Vaillant retraced his steps.
+He then visited the Schneuwberg mountains, the Karroo desert and the
+shores of the Buffalo River, returning to the Cape on the 2nd April,
+1783.
+
+The results of this long campaign were important. Le Vaillant obtained
+some decided information about the Gonaquas, a numerous race which
+must not be confounded with the Hottentots properly so called, but are
+probably the offspring of their intermarriage with the Kaffirs. With
+regard to the Hottentots themselves, the information collected by Le
+Vaillant agrees on almost every point with that obtained by Sparrman.
+
+"The Kaffirs seen by Le Vaillant," says Walcknaer, "were most of them
+taller than either the Hottentots or the Gonaquas. They have neither
+the retiring jaws nor prominent cheek bones which are so repulsive in
+the Hottentots, but are less noticeable in the Gonaquas, neither have
+they the broad flat faces and thick lips of their neighbours the
+negroes of Mozambique. Their faces, on the contrary, are round, their
+noses fairly prominent, and their teeth the whitest and most regular
+of any people in the world. Their complexion is of a clear dark brown;
+and, but for this one characteristic, says Le Vaillant, any Kaffir
+woman would be considered very pretty, even beside a European."
+
+During Le Vaillant's sixteen months of absence, the aspect of the Cape
+had completely changed. When the traveller left he admired the modest
+bearing of the Dutch women; on his return he found them thinking only
+of amusement and dress. Ostrich feathers were so much in vogue that
+they had to be imported from Europe and Asia. All those brought by our
+traveller were quickly bought up. The birds which he had sent to the
+colony on every possible opportunity now amounted to one thousand and
+twenty-four specimens; and Mr. Boers' house, where they were kept, was
+converted into a regular natural history museum.
+
+Le Vaillant's journey had been so successful that he could not but
+wish to begin another. Although his friend Boers had returned to
+Europe, he was able, with the aid of the many other friends he had
+made, to collect the materials for a fresh trip. On the 15th June,
+1783, he started at the head of a caravan numbering nineteen persons.
+He also took thirteen dogs, one he- and two she-goats, three cows,
+thirty-six draught and fourteen reserve oxen, with two for carrying
+the baggage of the Hottentot servants.
+
+We shall not, of course, follow the traveller in his hunting
+excursions; all we need to know is that he succeeded in making a
+collection of marvellous birds, that he introduced the first giraffe
+to Europe, and that he traversed the whole of the vast space between
+the tropic of Capricorn on the west and the 14th meridian on the east.
+He returned to the Cape in 1784, he embarked for Europe, and arrived
+at Paris early in January, 1785.
+
+The first native people met with by Le Vaillant in his second voyage
+were the Little Namaquas, a race but very little known, and who soon
+died out--the more readily that they occupied a barren country,
+subject to constant attacks from the Bosjemans. Although of fair
+height, they are inferior in appearance to the Kaffirs and Namaquas,
+to whose customs theirs bear a great resemblance.
+
+The Caminouquas, or Comeinacquas, of whom Le Vaillant gives many
+particulars, exceed them in height. He says,--
+
+"They appear taller even than the Gonaquas, although possibly they are
+not so in reality; but the illusion is sustained by their small bones,
+delicate and emaciated appearance, and slender limbs. The long mantle
+of light material which hangs from the shoulder to the ground adds to
+their height. They look like drawn out men. Lighter in colour than the
+Cape natives, they have better features than the other Hottentot
+tribes, owing to the fact that their noses are less flat and their
+cheek bones less prominent."
+
+Of all the races visited by Le Vaillant, the most peculiar and most
+ancient was that of the Houzonanas, a tribe which had not been met
+with by any other northern traveller; but they appear identical with
+the Bechuanas, although the part of the country assigned to them does
+not coincide with that which they are known to have occupied for many
+years.
+
+"The Houzonanas," says the narrative, "are small in stature, the
+tallest being scarcely five feet four in height. These small beings
+are perfectly proportioned, and are surprisingly strong and active.
+They have an imposing air of boldness." Le Vaillant considers them the
+best endowed mentally, and the strongest physically, of all the savage
+races he had met with. In face they resemble the Hottentots, but they
+have rounder chins, and they are far less black. They have curly hair,
+so short that Le Vaillant at first imagined it to be shaven.
+
+One striking peculiarity of the Houzonanas is a large mass of flesh
+upon the back of the women, which forms a natural saddle, and
+oscillates strangely with every movement of the body. Le Vaillant
+describes a woman whom he saw with her child about three years old,
+who was perched upon his feet behind her, like a footman behind a
+cabriolet.
+
+We will pass over the traveller's description of the appearance and
+customs of these various races, many of which are now extinct, or
+incorporated in some more powerful tribe. Although by no means the
+least curious portion of his narrative, the details are so exaggerated
+that we prefer to omit them.
+
+Upon the eastern coast of Africa, a Portuguese traveller, named
+Fransisco Jose de Lacerda y Almeida, left Mozambique in 1797, to
+explore the interior. The account of this expedition to a place which
+has only lately been revisited, would be of great interest; but
+unfortunately, so far as we know, his journal has not been published.
+His name is often quoted by geographers, and they appear to know what
+countries he visited; but in France, at least, no lengthened notice of
+this geographer exists which would furnish the details of his
+exploration. A very few words will convey all that we have been able
+to collect of the history of a man who made most important discoveries,
+and whose name has most unfairly been forgotten.
+
+Lacerda, the date and place of whose birth are unknown, was an
+engineer, and he was professionally engaged in settling the boundary
+of the frontier between the Spanish and Portuguese possessions in
+South America. Whilst thus employed, he collected a mass of
+interesting particulars of the province of Mato Grosso, which are
+given in the _Rivesta trimensal do Brazil_. We cannot tell what
+circumstances led him, after this successful expedition, to the
+Portuguese possessions in Africa; nor is it easy to imagine his motive
+for crossing South Africa from the eastern shore to the kingdom of
+Loanda. It is however certain that he left the well-known town of Tete
+in 1797, in command of an important caravan bound for the States of
+Cazembe.
+
+This country was governed by a king as renowned for his benevolence
+and humanity as for his bravery. He inhabited a town called Lunda,
+which was two miles in extent, and situated upon the eastern shore of
+the lake called Mofo. It would have been interesting to compare these
+localities with those that we know of in the same parallels to-day;
+but the lack of details obliges us to desist, merely observing that
+the word Lunda was well-known to Portuguese travellers. As regards
+Cazembe, there is no longer any question as to its position.
+
+Well received by the king, Lacerda remained some twelve days with him,
+and then proceeded upon his journey. Unfortunately, when a day or
+two's march from Lunda he succumbed to fatigue and the unhealthiness
+of the climate.
+
+The native king collected the traveller's notes and journals, and
+ordered them to be sent with his remains to Mozambique. But
+unfortunately the caravan entrusted with these precious memorials was
+attacked, and the remains of the unfortunate Lacerda were left in the
+heart of Africa. His notes were brought to Europe by a nephew, who had
+accompanied the expedition.
+
+We now come to the account of the expeditions undertaken in the east
+of Africa, foremost amongst which is that of the well-known traveller
+Bruce. A Scotchman by birth, like so many other African explorers,
+James Bruce was brought up for the bar; but the sedentary nature of
+his occupation had little charm for him, and he embraced an
+opportunity of entering commercial life. His wife died a few years
+after their marriage, and Bruce started for Spain, where he employed
+his leisure in studying Arabic monuments. He wished to publish a
+detailed account of those in the Escorial, but the Spanish Government
+refused him the necessary permission.
+
+[Illustration: Portrait of James Bruce. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+Returning to England, Bruce began to study Eastern languages, and more
+especially the Ethiopian, which at that time was known only through
+the imperfect works of Ludolf. One day Lord Halifax half jestingly
+proposed to him an exploration of the sources of the Nile. Bruce
+entered enthusiastically into the subject, and set to work to realize
+it. He overcame every objection, conquered every difficulty, and in
+June, 1768, left England for the shores of the Mediterranean. Bruce
+hurriedly visited some of the islands of the Archipelago, Syria, and
+Egypt. Leaving Djedda he proceeded to Mecca, Lobheia, and arrived at
+Massowah upon the 19th September, 1769. He had taken care to obtain a
+firman from the Sultan, and also letters from the Bey of Cairo, and
+the Sheriff of Mecca. This was fortunate, for the Nawab, or governor
+did all in his power to prevent his entering Abyssinia, and
+endeavoured to make him pay heavily with presents. Abyssinia had been
+explored by Portuguese Missionaries, thanks to whose zeal some
+information about the country had been obtained, although far less
+accurate in detail than that which we owe to Bruce. Although his
+veracity has often been questioned, succeeding travellers have
+confirmed his assertions.
+
+From Massowah to Adowa the road rises gradually, and passes over the
+mountains which separate Tigre from the shores of the Red Sea.
+
+Adowa was not originally the capital of Tigre. A manufacture of a
+coarse cotton cloth which circulates as current money in Abyssinia was
+established there. The soil in the neighbourhood is deep enough for
+the cultivation of corn.
+
+"In these districts," says Bruce, "there are three harvests a year.
+The first seeds are sown in July and August, when the rain flows
+abundantly. In the same season they sow 'tocusso,' 'teff,' and barley.
+About the 20th of November they reap the first barley, then the wheat,
+and last of all the 'teff.' In some of these they sow immediately upon
+the same ground without any manure, barley, which they reap in
+February, and then often sow 'teff,' but more frequently a kind of
+vetch or pea, called Shimbra; these are cut down before the first
+rains, which are in April; yet with all the advantages of a triple
+harvest, which requires neither manure nor any expensive processes,
+the farmer in Abyssinia is always very poor."
+
+At Fremona, not far from Adowa, are the ruins of a Jesuit convent,
+resembling rather a fort than the abode of men of peace. Two days'
+journey further on, one comes to the ruins of Axum, the ancient
+capital of Abyssinia. "In one square," says Bruce, "which I apprehend
+to have been the centre of the town, there are forty obelisks, none of
+which have any hieroglyphics on them. The two first have fallen down,
+but a third a little smaller than them is still standing. They are all
+hewn from one block of granite, and on the top of that which is
+standing there is a _patera_, exceedingly well engraved in the Greek
+style.
+
+"After passing the convent of Abba Pantaleon, called in Abyssinia
+Mantillas, and the small obelisk on a rock above, we follow a path cut
+in a mountain of very red marble, having on the left a marble wall
+forming a parapet about five feet high. At intervals solid pedestals
+rise from this wall, bearing every token of having served to support
+colossal statues of Sirius, the barking Anubis, or the Dog star. One
+hundred and thirty-three of these pedestals with the marks just
+mentioned are still in their places, but only two figures of the dog
+were recognizable when I was there; these, however, though much
+mutilated, were evidently Egyptian.
+
+"There are also pedestals supporting the figures of the Sphinx. Two
+magnificent flights of steps, several hundred feet long, all of
+granite, exceedingly well finished, and still in their places, are the
+only remains of a magnificent temple. In an angle of this platform
+where the temple stood, is the present small church of Axum. This
+church is a mean, small building, very ill kept and full of pigeons'
+dung." It was near Axum that Bruce saw three soldiers cut from a
+living cow a steak for their midday meal.
+
+In his account of their method of cutting the steak Bruce says, "The
+skin which had covered the flesh that was cut away was left intact,
+and was fastened to the corresponding part by little wooden skewers
+serving as pins. Whether they put anything between the skin and the
+wounded flesh I do not know, but they soon covered the wound with mud.
+They then forced the animal to rise, and drove it on before them, to
+furnish them, no doubt, with another meal when they should join their
+companions in the evening."
+
+From Tigre, Bruce passed into the province of Sire, which derives its
+name from its capital, a town considerably larger than Axum, but
+constantly a prey to putrid fevers. Near it flows the Takazze, the
+ancient Siris, with its poisonous waters bordered by majestic trees.
+
+In the province of Samen, situated amongst the unhealthy and broiling
+Waldubba Mountains, and where many monks had retired to pray and do
+penance, Bruce stayed only long enough to rest his beasts of burden,
+for the country was not only haunted by lions and hyenas, and infested
+by large black ants, which destroyed part of his baggage, but also
+torn with civil war; so that foreigners were anything but safe. This
+made him most anxious to reach Gondar, but when he arrived typhoid
+fever was raging fiercely. His knowledge of medicine was very useful
+to him, and procured him a situation under the governor, which was
+most advantageous to him, as it rendered him free to scour the country
+in all directions, at the head of a body of soldiers. By these means
+he acquired a mass of valuable information upon the government,
+manners, and customs of the country, and the chief events of its
+history, which combined to make his work the most important hitherto
+published about Abyssinia.
+
+It was in the course of one of these excursions that Bruce discovered
+the sources of the Blue Nile, which he took to be the true Nile.
+Arrived at the church of St. Michael, at Geesh, where the river is
+only four paces wide, and some four inches deep, Bruce became
+convinced that its sources must be in the neighbourhood, although his
+guide assured him that he must cross a mountain before he found them.
+The traveller was not to be deceived.
+
+"'Come! come!'" said Bruce, "'no more words. It is already late; lead
+me to Geesh and the sources of the Nile, and show me the mountain that
+separates us from it.' He then made me go round to the south of the
+church, and coming out of the grove of cedars surrounding it, 'This is
+the mountain,' he said, looking maliciously up into my face, 'that
+when you were on the other side of it, was between you and the
+fountains of the Nile; there is no other. Look at that green hillock
+in the centre of that marsh. It is there that the two fountains of the
+Nile are to be found. Geesh is at the top of the rock, where you see
+those very green trees. If you go to the fountains, pull off your
+shoes as you did the other day, for these people are all Pagans, and
+they believe in nothing that you believe, but only in the Nile, to
+which they pray every day as if it were God, as you perhaps invoke it
+yourself.' I took off my shoes, and rushed down the hill towards the
+little green island, which was about two hundred yards distant. The
+whole of the side of the hill was carpeted with flowers, the large
+roots of which protruded above the surface of the ground; and as I was
+looking down, and noticing that the skin was peeling off the bulbs, I
+had two very severe falls before I reached the edge of the marsh; but
+at last I approached the island with its green sod. It was in the form
+of an altar, and apparently of artificial construction. I was in
+rapture as I gazed upon the principal fountain which rises in the
+middle of it. It is easier to imagine than to describe what I felt at
+that moment, standing opposite the sources which had baffled the
+genius and courage of the most celebrated men for three thousand
+years."
+
+Bruce's narrative contains many other curious observations, but we
+must now pass on to his account of Lake Tzana.
+
+"Lake Tzana," according to his narrative, "is by far the largest sheet
+of water known in these regions. Its extent, however, has been greatly
+exaggerated. Its greatest breadth from Dingleber to Lamgue, i.e. from
+east to west, is thirty-five miles, but it decreases greatly at each
+end, and in some parts is not above ten miles broad. Its greatest
+length is forty-nine miles from north to south, measured from Bab-Baha
+to a point a trifle to the S.W.1/4W. of the spot where the Nile, after
+flowing through the lake with an ever perceptible current, bends
+towards Dara in the Allata territory. In the dry season, from October
+to March, the lake decreases greatly; but when the rains have swollen
+the rivers, which unite at this place like the spokes of a wheel at
+the nave, the lake rises, and overflows a portion of the plain. If the
+Abyssinians, great liars at all times, are to be believed, there are
+forty-five islands in Lake Tzana; but this number may be safely
+reduced to eleven. The largest is named Dek, Daka, or Daga; the next
+in size are Halimoon, on the Gondar side of the lake, Briguida, on the
+Gorgora side, and Galila, beyond Briguida. All these islands were
+formerly used as prisons for Abyssinian chieftains, or as retreats by
+such as were dissatisfied at court, or wished to secure their
+valuables in troubled times."
+
+And now having visited Abyssinia with Bruce, let us return to the
+north.
+
+Some light was now being thrown upon the ancient civilization of Egypt.
+The archaeological expedition of Pococke, Norden, Niebuhr, Volney, and
+Savary had been published in succession, and the Egyptian Society was
+at work upon the publication of its large and magnificent work. The
+number of travellers increased daily, and amongst others W. G. Browne
+determined to visit the land of the Pharaohs.
+
+From his work we learn much alike of the monuments and ruins which
+make this country so interesting, and of the customs of its
+inhabitants. The portion of the work relating to Darfur is entirely
+new, no Europeans having previously explored it. Browne attained a
+high place among travellers by his discovery that the Bahr-el-Abiad is
+the true Nile, and because he endeavoured not indeed to discover its
+source, that he could scarcely hope to do, but to ascertain its
+latitude and course.
+
+Arriving in Egypt upon the 10th of January, 1792, Browne set out upon
+his first expedition to Siwah, and discovered, as Horneman did later,
+the oasis of Jupiter Ammon. He had little more opportunity than his
+successor for exploring the catacombs and ruins, where he saw many
+skulls and human remains.
+
+"The ruins of Siwah," he says, "resembled too much those of Upper
+Egypt to leave any doubt that the buildings to which they belonged
+were built by the same race of men. The figures of Isis and Anubis are
+easily recognizable on them, and the proportions of their
+architectural works, though smaller, are the same as those of the
+Egyptian temples.
+
+"The rocks I noticed in the neighbourhood of Siwah were of the
+sandstone formation, bearing no relation whatever to the stones of
+these ruins; so that I should think that the materials for these
+buildings cannot have been obtained on the spot. The people of Siwah
+have preserved no credible traditions respecting these objects. They
+merely imagined them to contain treasures, and to be frequented by
+demons."
+
+After leaving Siwah, Browne made various excursions in Egypt, and then
+settled in Cairo, where he studied Arabic. He left this town upon the
+10th of September, 1792, and visited in succession Kaw, Achmin, Gergeh,
+Dendera, Kazr, Thebes, Assouan, Kosseir, Memphis, Suez, and Mount
+Sinai; then wishing to enter Abyssinia, but convinced that he could
+not do so by way of Massowah, he left Assiut for Darfur, with a Soudan
+caravan, in May, 1793. The caravan halted upon its way to Darfur at
+the different towns of Aine, Dizeh, Charyeh, Bulak, Scheb, Selinceh,
+Leghea, and Ber-el-Malha.
+
+Being taken ill at Soueini, Browne was detained there, and only
+reached El-Fascher after a long delay. Here his annoyances and the
+exactions levied recommenced, and he could not succeed in obtaining an
+interview with the Sultan. He was forced to spend the winter at Cobbeh,
+awaiting his restoration to health, which only took place in the
+summer of 1794. This time of forced inaction was not, however, wasted
+by the traveller; he acquainted himself with the manners and dialects
+of Darfur. Upon the return of summer, Browne repaired to El-Fascher,
+and recommenced his applications for admittance to the Sultan. They
+were attended with the same unsuccessful results, until a crowning act
+of injustice at length procured for him the interview he had so long
+solicited in vain.
+
+"I found," he says, "the monarch Abd-el-Raschman seated on his throne
+under a lofty wooden canopy, of Syrian and Indian stuffs
+indiscriminately mixed. The floor in front of the throne was spread
+with small Turkey carpets. The meleks (officers of the court) were
+seated at some little distance off on the right and left, and behind
+them stood a line of guards, wearing caps ornamented in front with a
+small copper plate and a black ostrich feather. Each bore a spear in
+his right hand, and a shield of hippopotamus-hide on the left arm.
+Their only clothing was a cotton shirt, of the manufacture of the
+country. Behind the throne were fourteen or fifteen eunuchs, clothed
+in rich stuffs of various kinds and all manner of colours. The space
+in front was filled with petitioners and spectators, to the number of
+more than fifteen hundred. A kind of hired eulogist stood on the
+monarch's left hand, crying out at the top of his voice during the
+whole ceremony, 'See the buffalo, the son of a buffalo, the powerful
+Sultan Abd-el-Raschman El-rashid. May God protect thy life, O master,
+may God assist thee and render thee victorious.'"
+
+[Illustration: "I found the monarch seated on his throne."]
+
+The Sultan promised justice to Browne, and put the matter into the
+hands of the meleks, but he only obtained restitution of a sixth of
+that of which he had been robbed.
+
+The traveller had merely entered Darfur to cross it. He found it would
+be no easy task to leave it, and that in any case he must give up the
+idea of prosecuting his exploration; he says,--
+
+"On the 11th of December, 1795, (after a delay of three months) I
+accompanied the chatib (one of the principal officers of the country)
+to the monarch's presence. I shortly stated what I required, and the
+chatib seconded me, though not with the zeal that I might have wished.
+To my demand for permission to travel no answer was returned, and the
+iniquitous despot, who had received from me no less than the value of
+about 750 piastres in goods, condescended to give me twenty meagre
+oxen, worth about 120 piastres. The state of my purse would not permit
+me to refuse even this mean return, and I bade adieu to El-Fascher as
+I hoped for ever."
+
+Browne was not able to leave Darfur till the spring of 1796, when he
+joined the caravan which was about to return to Egypt.
+
+The town of Cobbeh, although not the resort of the merchants, must be
+considered the capital of Darfur. It is more than two miles in length,
+but is extremely narrow, each house stands in a field surrounded by a
+palisade, and between each there is a plot of fallow land.
+
+The plain in which the town is situated runs W.S.W., to a distance of
+some twenty miles. Almost all the inhabitants are merchants, who trade
+with Egypt. Their number may be estimated at six thousand, the larger
+proportion being slaves. The entire population of Darfur cannot exceed
+two hundred thousand, but Browne only arrived at this calculation by
+estimating the number of recruits raised for the war with Kordofan.
+
+"The inhabitants of Darfur," says the narrative, "are of various races.
+Some, chiefly fakeers or priests and traders, come from the west, and
+there are a good many Arabs, none of whom are permanent residents.
+They are of various tribes; the greater number lead a wandering life
+on the frontiers, where they pasture their camels, oxen, and horses.
+They are not in such complete dependence on the Sultan as always to
+contribute to his forces in war, or to pay him tribute in time of
+peace."
+
+After the Arabs come the people of Zeghawa, which once formed a
+distinct kingdom, whose chief could put a thousand horsemen in the
+field. The Zeghawas speak a different dialect from the people of Fur.
+We must also include the people of Bego or Dageou, who are now subject
+to Darfur, but are the issue of a tribe which formerly ruled the
+country.
+
+The natives of Darfur are inured to hunger and thirst, but they
+indulge freely in an intoxicating liquor called _Bouzza_ or _Merisse_.
+Thieving, lying, and dishonesty, with their accompanying vices,
+prevail largely among them.
+
+"In buying and selling the parent glories in deceiving the son, and
+the son the parent, and atrocious frauds are committed in the name of
+God and of the Prophet.
+
+"Polygamy, which it is well known is tolerated by their religion, is
+indulged in to excess by the people of Darfur. When Sultan Teraub went
+to war with Korodofan, he took in his retinue five hundred women,
+leaving as many in his palace. This may at first sight seem ridiculous,
+but it must be remembered that these women had to grind corn, draw
+water, dress food, and perform all the domestic work for a large
+number of people, so that there was plenty for them to do."
+
+Browne's narrative contains many medical observations of interest, and
+gives valuable advice as to the mode of travelling in Africa, with
+particulars of the animals, fish, metals, and plants of Darfur. We do
+not give them here, because they do not contain anything of special
+interest for us.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+ASIA AND ITS INHABITANTS.
+
+Witzen's account of Tartary--China as described by the Jesuits and
+Father Du Halde--Macartney in China--Stay at Chu-Sang--Arrival at
+Nankin--Negotiations--Reception of the Embassy by the Emperor--Fetes
+and ceremonies at Zhe Hol--Return to Pekin and Europe--Volney--
+Choiseul Gouffier--Le Chevalier in Troas--Olivier in Persia--A
+semi-Asiatic country--Pallas's account of Russia.
+
+
+At the end of the seventeenth century, a traveller named Nicolas
+Witzen had explored eastern and northern Tartary, and in 1692
+published a curious narrative of his journey. This work, which was in
+Dutch, and was not translated into any other European language, did
+not win for its author the recognition he deserved. A second edition,
+illustrated with engravings which were meritorious rather from their
+fidelity to nature than their artistic merit, was issued in 1705, and
+in 1785 the remaining copies of this issue were collected, and
+appeared under a new title. But it attracted little notice, as by this
+time further, and more curious particulars had been obtained.
+
+From the day that the Jesuits first entered the Celestial Empire, they
+had collected every possible fact with regard to the customs of this
+immense country, which previous to their stay there had been known
+only through the extravagant tales of Marco Polo. Although China is
+the country of stagnation, and customs and fashion always remain much
+the same in it, the many events which had taken place made it
+desirable to obtain more exact particulars of a nation with whom
+Europeans might possibly enter into advantageous friendly relations.
+
+The Jesuits published the result of these investigations in the rare
+work entitled "Lettres Edifiantes," which was revised and supplemented
+by a zealous member of their order, Father Du Halde. It would be
+useless to attempt any reproduction of this immense work, for which a
+volume would be required, and it is the less necessary as at this day
+we have fuller and more complete details of the country than are to be
+found even in the learned father's book. To the Jesuits also belong
+the merit of many important astronomical observations, facts
+concerning natural history, and the compilation of maps, which were
+till quite lately authorities on remote districts of the country
+consulted with advantages.
+
+Towards the end of the eighteenth century, Abbe Grosier, of the order
+of St. Louis du Louvre, published in an abridged form, a new
+description of China and Tartary. He made use of the work of his
+predecessor, Du Halde, and at the same time rectified and added to it.
+After an account of the fifteen provinces of China and Tartary, with
+the tributary States, such as Corea, Tonking, Cochin China, and Thibet,
+the author devotes several chapters to the population and natural
+history of China, whilst he reviews the government, religion, manners,
+literature, science, and art of the Chinese.
+
+Towards the end of the eighteenth century, the English Government,
+being desirous of entering into commercial relations with China, sent
+an Envoy-extraordinary to that country named George Macartney.
+
+This diplomatist had already visited the courts of Europe and Russia,
+had been governor of the English Antilles and Madras, and
+Governor-General of India.
+
+He had acquired in the course of his travels in such varied climates,
+and amid such diverse peoples, a profound knowledge of human nature.
+His narrative of his voyages is rich in facts and observations
+calculated to give Europeans a true idea of the Chinese character.
+
+Personal accounts of travel are always more interesting than anonymous
+ones.
+
+Although the great _I_ is generally hateful, it is not so in travels,
+where the assertion _I_ have been there, _I_ have done such or such a
+thing, carries weight, and gives interest to the narrative.
+
+Macartney and his suite sailed in a squadron consisting of three
+vessels, the _Lion_, the _Hindustan_, and the _Jackal_, which left
+Portsmouth on the 26th September, 1792.
+
+[Illustration: Map of the Empire of China.]
+
+After a few necessary delays at Rio-de-Janeiro, St. Paul and Amsterdam
+Islands, where some seal-hunters were seen, at Batavia, and Bantam, in
+Java, and at Poulo Condere, the vessels cast anchor off Turon (Han
+San) in Cochin China, a vast harbour, of which only a very bad chart
+was then in existence.
+
+The arrival of the English was at first a cause of uneasiness to the
+natives of Cochin China. But when they were once informed of the
+motives which had brought the English to their country, they sent an
+ambassador of high rank on board with presents for Macartney, who was
+shortly afterwards invited to a banquet at the governor's, followed by
+a dramatic entertainment. During the short stay many notes were taken
+of the manners and customs of the people, unfortunately too hurriedly
+to admit of accuracy.
+
+As soon as the sick had recovered and fresh provisions had been
+obtained the vessels set sail. A short stay was made at the Ladrone
+Islands, and the squadron then entered the Strait of Formosa, where it
+encountered stormy weather, and took refuge in Chusan Harbour. During
+this stay the map of this archipelago was rectified and an opportunity
+was taken to visit Tinghai, where the English excited as much
+curiosity as they felt themselves at the sight of the many things
+which were new to them.
+
+Many of the facts which surprised them are familiar to us, the
+appearance of the houses, the markets and dress of the Chinese, the
+small feet of the women, and many other particulars to which we need
+not refer. We will only allude to the account of the method employed
+by them in cultivating dwarf trees.
+
+"This stunted vegetation," says Macartney, "seems to be highly
+appreciated in China, for specimens of it are found in all the larger
+houses. It is an art peculiar to the Chinese, and the gardener's skill
+consists in knowing how to produce it. Independently of the
+satisfaction of triumphing over a difficulty, he has the advantage of
+introducing into rooms plants whose natural size would have precluded
+such a possibility.
+
+"The following is the method employed in China for the production of
+dwarfed trees. The trunk of a tree of which it is desired to obtain a
+dwarfed specimen, is covered as nearly as possible where it separates
+into branches with clay or mould, over which is placed a linen or
+cotton covering constantly kept damp. This mould is sometimes left on
+for a whole year, and throughout that time the wood it covers throws
+out tender, root-like fibres. Then the portions of the trunk from
+which issue these fibres, with the branch immediately above them, are
+carefully separated from the tree and placed in fresh mould, where the
+shoots soon develope into real roots, whilst the branch forms the stem
+of a plant which is in a manner metamorphosed. This operation neither
+destroys nor alters the productive faculties of the branch which is
+separated from the parent tree. When it bears fruit or flowers it does
+so as plentifully as when it was upon the original stem. The
+extremities of the branches intended to be dwarfed are always pulled
+off, which precludes the possibility of their growing tall, and forces
+them to throw out shoots and lateral branches. These shoots are tied
+with wire, and assume the form the gardener chooses. When it is
+desired to give an aged appearance to the tree, it is constantly
+moistened with theriaca or treacle, which attracts to it multitudes of
+ants, who not content with devouring the sweetmeat, attack the bark of
+the tree, and eat it away in such a manner as to produce the desired
+effect."
+
+Upon leaving Chusan, the squadron entered the Yellow Sea, never before
+navigated by an European vessel. The river Hoang-Ho flows into it, and
+it is from the immense quantity of yellow mud brought down by it in
+its long and tortuous course that the sea derives its name.
+
+The English vessels cast anchor in Ten-chou-Fou Bay, and thence
+entered the gulf of Pekin, and halted outside the bar of Pei-Ho. There
+being only three or four feet of water on this bar at low tide, the
+vessels could not cross it.
+
+The mandarins appointed by the government to receive the English
+ambassador, arrived shortly after, bringing numerous presents; whilst
+the gifts intended for the emperor were placed in junks, and Macartney
+went on board a yacht which had been prepared for him.
+
+The first town reached was Takoo, where Macartney received a visit
+from the viceroy of the province and the principal mandarin. Both were
+men of venerable and dignified aspect, polite and attentive, and
+entirely free from obsequiousness.
+
+"It has been rightly said," remarks Macartney, "that a people are as
+they are made, and the English had continual proof of this truth in
+the effect produced upon the Chinese character by the fear of the iron
+power that ruled them. Apart from this fear they were cheerful and
+confiding, but in the presence of their rulers they appeared most
+timid and embarrassed."
+
+In ascending the Pei-Ho towards Pekin, the course was retarded by the
+many windings of the river. The country through which they passed was
+highly cultivated, with houses and villages at intervals upon the
+banks of the river or inland, alternating with cemeteries and pyramids
+of bags of salt, producing a charming and ever varying landscape. When
+night approached, lanterns of every hue, fastened to the masts and
+rigging of the yachts, produced the fantastic effect of many-coloured
+lights.
+
+[Illustration: Chinese magic-lantern. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+Tieng Tsing signifies "heavenly spot," and the town owes this name to
+its agreeable climate and clear blue sky, and the fertility of its
+neighbourhood. In this place, the ambassador was received by the
+viceroy and a legate sent by the emperor. From them Macartney learned
+that the emperor was at his summer palace in Tartary, and that the
+anniversary of his birthday was to be celebrated there upon the 13th
+of September. The ambassador and his suite were therefore to go up by
+water as far as Tong Schou, about a dozen miles from Pekin, and thence
+proceed by land to Zhe Hol, where the emperor awaited them. The
+presents might be sent on afterwards. Although the first intimation
+was pleasant, the latter was singularly disagreeable to Macartney, for
+the presents consisted for the most part of delicate instruments,
+which had been taken to pieces for safety and packed separately. The
+legate would not consent to their being left where they would be free
+from danger of being disturbed. Macartney was obliged to obtain the
+intervention of the viceroy for the protection of these proofs of the
+genius and knowledge of Europe.
+
+The cortege reached Tien Tsing, a town which appeared as long as
+London, and contained not less than seven hundred thousand inhabitants.
+A vast crowd assembled on the banks of the river to see the English
+pass, and the river swarmed with junks teeming with natives.
+
+The houses in this city are built of blue with a few red bricks, some
+are two stories high, but that is unusual. Here the English saw the
+employment of those carriages with sails which had long been
+considered fabulous. They consist of two barrows made of bamboo, with
+one large wheel between them.
+
+When there is not sufficient wind to propel the carriage, says the
+narrative, it is drawn by one man, while another pushes behind and
+keeps it steady. When the wind is favourable, the sail, which is a mat
+attached to two sticks placed upon either side of the carriage,
+renders the help of the man in front unnecessary.
+
+The banks of the Pei-Ho are in many parts protected by breastworks of
+granite, to arrest inundation, and here and there dikes, also of
+granite, provided with a sluice, by means of which water is conveyed
+to the fields below. The country, although well cultivated, was often
+devastated by famines, following upon inundations, or resulting from
+the ravages of locusts.
+
+Thus far, the cortege had been sailing through the immense alluvial
+plain of Pe-tche-Li. Not until the fourth day after leaving Tien Tsing
+was the blue outline of mountains perceived on the horizon. Pekin was
+now in sight; and on the 6th of August, 1793, the yachts anchored
+within two miles of the capital, and half a mile from Tong-Chow-Fow.
+
+In order to leave the presents which could not be taken to Zhe Hol, at
+the palace, called "The garden of eternal spring," it was necessary to
+land. The inhabitants of Tong-Chow-Fow, who were already greatly
+excited by the appearance of the English, were still more amazed at
+the first sight of a negro servant. His skin, his jet black colour,
+his woolly hair, and all the distinguishing marks of his race, were
+absolutely novel in this part of China. The people could not remember
+seeing anything at all like him before. Some of them even doubted if
+he could be a human being at all, and the children cried out in fear
+that it was a black devil. But his good humour soon reconciled them to
+his appearance, and they became accustomed to look upon him without
+fear or displeasure.
+
+The English were especially surprised at seeing upon a wall the sketch
+of a lunar eclipse which was to take place in a few days. They
+ascertained among other facts, that silver is an article of commerce
+with the Chinese, for they have no coined money, but use ingots
+bearing only a sign, indicative of their weight. The English were
+struck with the extraordinary resemblance between the religious
+ceremonies of Fo and those of the Christians.
+
+Macartney states that certain authors maintain that the apostle Thomas
+visited China; while the Missionary Tremore contends, that this is
+merely a fiction palmed upon the Jesuits by the devil himself.
+
+Ninety small carriages, forty-four wheelbarrows, more than two hundred
+horses, and over three thousand men, were employed in the transport of
+the presents of the British government to the emperor. Macartney and
+three of his suite accompanied the convoy in palanquins. An enormous
+crowd followed them. The English ambassador was greeted at the gates
+of Pekin by volleys of artillery. Once beyond the fortifications, he
+found himself in a wide unpaved street, with houses on either side,
+one or two stories high. Across the street extended a wooden triumphal
+arch in three partitions, each with a lofty and highly decorated roof.
+
+The embassy afforded ample material for the tales which at this time
+filled the imagination of the people. It was declared that the
+presents brought for the emperor consisted of everything that was rare
+in other countries and unknown in China. It was gravely asserted that
+among the animals, there was an elephant not larger than a monkey, but
+as fierce as a lion, and a cock which was fed upon coal. Everything
+which came from England was supposed to differ from anything hitherto
+seen in Pekin, and to possess the very opposite qualities to those
+usual to it.
+
+The wall of the imperial palace was at once recognized by its yellow
+colour. Through the gate were seen artificial hills, lakes and rivers,
+with small islets, and fantastic buildings amidst the trees.
+
+At the end of a street terminating at the northern wall of the city,
+was a vast edifice of considerable height, which contained an enormous
+bell. The English explored the town in various directions, and on the
+whole were not favourably impressed. They concluded that a Chinaman
+visiting London, with its bridges and innumerable ships, its squares
+and monuments, would carry away a better idea of the importance of the
+capital of Great Britain than they could do of Pekin.
+
+Upon their arrival at the palace, where the presents for the emperor
+were to be displayed, the governor discussed with Macartney the best
+way to arrange and display them. They were finally placed in a large
+and well-decorated hall, which at the time contained nothing but a
+throne and a few vases of old china.
+
+It is unnecessary to enter upon the interminable negotiations which
+arose out of the resolve of the Chinese, that Macartney should
+prostrate himself before the emperor; which humiliating proposition
+they had prepared for by the inscription placed upon the yachts and
+carriages of the embassy, "Ambassador bringing tribute from England."
+
+[Illustration: Emperor of China. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+It is in Pekin that the field is situated which the emperor, in
+accordance with ancient custom, sows every spring. Here, too, is to be
+found the "Temple of the Earth," to which the sovereign resorts at the
+summer solstice, to acknowledge the astral power which lightens the
+world, and to give thanks for its beneficent influence.
+
+Pekin is merely the seat of the Imperial government in China, and has
+neither shipping, manufactures, nor trade.
+
+Macartney computes the number of inhabitants at three millions. The
+one-storied houses in the town appear insufficient for so large a
+population, but a single house accommodates three generations. This
+density of the population is the result of the early ages at which
+marriages are contracted. These hasty unions are often brought about
+from prudential motives by the Chinese, the children, and especially
+the sons, being responsible for the care of their parents.
+
+The embassy left Pekin on the 2nd of September, 1793, Macartney,
+travelling in a post-chaise, probably the first carriage of the kind
+which ever entered Tartary.
+
+As the distance from Pekin increased, the road ascended and the soil
+became more sandy, and contained less and less clay and black earth.
+Shortly afterwards, vast plains, planted with tobacco, were crossed.
+Macartney imagines tobacco to be indigenous, and not imported from
+America, and thinks that the habit of smoking was spontaneous in Asia.
+
+The English soon noticed that as the soil became more and more barren,
+the population decreased. At the same time the Tartar element became
+larger and larger, and the difference between the manners of the
+Chinese and their conquerors was less marked.
+
+Upon the fifth day of the journey, the far-famed Great Wall was seen.
+
+"The first glance at this fortified wall," says Macartney, "is enough
+to give an impression of an enterprise of surprising grandeur. It
+ascends the highest mountains to their very loftiest peaks, it goes
+down into the deepest valleys, crossing rivers on sustaining arches,
+and with its breadth often doubled and trebled to increase its
+strength, whilst at intervals of about a hundred paces rise towers or
+strong bastions. It is difficult to understand how the materials for
+this wall were brought to and used in places apparently inaccessible,
+and it is impossible sufficiently to admire the skill brought to bear
+upon the task. One of the loftiest mountains over which the wall
+passes has been ascertained to be no less than 5225 feet high.
+
+"This fortification--for the simple word 'wall' gives no just idea of
+the wonderful structure--is said to be 1500 miles long, but it is not
+quite finished. The fifteen hundred miles was the extent of the
+frontier which separates colonized China from the various Tartar
+tribes. Such barriers as these would not suffice in modern times for
+nations at war.
+
+"Many of the lesser works in the interior of this grand rampart have
+yielded to the effect of time, and fallen into ruins; others have been
+repaired; but the principal wall appears throughout to have been built
+with such care and skill as never to have needed repairs. It has now
+been preserved more than two thousand years, and appears as little
+susceptible of injury as the rocks which nature herself has planted
+between China and Tartary."
+
+[Illustration: The great wall of China.]
+
+Beyond the wall nature seems to proclaim the entrance into a new
+country; the temperature is colder, the roads are more rugged, and the
+mountains are less wooded. The number of sufferers from goitre in the
+Tartar valleys is very considerable, and, according to the estimate
+given by Dr. Gillan, physician to the embassy, comprises a sixth of
+the population. The portion of Tartary in which this malady rages is
+not unlike many of the cantons of Switzerland and Savoy.
+
+The valley of Zhe Hol, where the emperor possesses a summer palace and
+garden, was at length reached. This residence is called "The abode of
+pleasant freshness," and the park surrounding it is named the "Garden
+of innumerable trees." The embassy was received with military honours,
+amid an immense crowd of people, many of whom were dressed in yellow.
+These were inferior lamas or monks of the order of Fo, to which the
+emperor also belonged.
+
+The disputes as to prostration before the emperor begun in Pekin were
+continued here. At last Tchien Lung consented to content himself with
+the respectful salutation with which English nobles are accustomed to
+greet their own sovereign. The reception accordingly took place, with
+every imaginable pomp and ceremony.
+
+The narrative says,--
+
+"Shortly after daybreak the sound of many instruments, and the
+confused voices of distant crowds, announced the approach of the
+emperor. He soon appeared, issuing from behind a high mountain,
+bordered with trees, as if from a sacred grove, and preceded by a
+number of men who proclaimed his virtues and power in loud voices. He
+was seated in a chair carried by sixteen men; his guards, the officers
+of his household, standard and umbrella bearers, and musicians
+accompanied him. He was clothed in a robe of sombre-coloured silk, and
+wore a velvet cap, very similar in shape to that of Scotch
+mountaineers. A large pearl was conspicuous on his forehead, and was
+the only jewel or ornament he wore."
+
+Upon entering the tent, the emperor mounted the steps of the throne,
+which he alone is allowed to ascend. The first minister, Ho Choo-Tang,
+and two of the chief officers of his household, remained near, and
+never addressed him but in a kneeling position. When the princes of
+royal blood, the tributary princes, and state officers, were in their
+places, the president of the customs conducted Macartney within a foot
+of the left-hand side of the throne, which in the Chinese court is
+considered the place of honour. The ambassador was accompanied by the
+minister plenipotentiary, and followed by his page and interpreter.
+
+Macartney, in accordance with the instructions given him by the
+president, raised above his head the magnificent square golden box
+studded with diamonds, which contained the King of England's letter to
+the emperor. Then mounting the few steps leading to the throne, he
+bowed the knee, and, with a short prefatory compliment, presented the
+box to his Imperial Majesty. The Chinese monarch received it
+graciously, and said, as he placed it on one side, "that he
+experienced much satisfaction at the token of esteem and friendship
+offered by his Britannic Majesty in sending to him an embassy with a
+letter and rich gifts; that, for his part, he had the like friendly
+feelings towards the King of Great Britain, and he hoped the same
+harmony would always continue between their respective subjects."
+
+After a few moments of private conversation with the ambassador, the
+emperor presented gifts to him and to the minister plenipotentiary.
+They were then conducted to cushions, in front of which were tables
+covered with a number of vessels containing meat and fruits. The
+emperor also partook of these, and continued to overwhelm the
+ambassadors with expressions of regard and esteem, which had a great
+effect in raising the English in the estimation of the Chinese public.
+Macartney and his suite were later invited to visit the gardens of Zhe
+Hol. During their walk in the grounds, the English met the emperor,
+who stopped to receive their respectful salutations, and order his
+first minister, who was looked upon as little less than a vice-emperor,
+and several other grandees to accompany them.
+
+[Illustration: Chinese Prime Minister. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+The Chinese conducted the English over a portion of the grounds laid
+out as pleasure-gardens, which formed only a small portion of the vast
+enclosure. The rest is sacred to the use of the women of the imperial
+family, and was as rigorously closed to the Chinese ministers as to
+the English embassy.
+
+Macartney was then led through a fertile valley, in which there were
+many trees, chiefly willows of enormous size. Grass grows abundantly
+between the trees, and its luxuriance is not diminished by cattle or
+interfered with by mowing. Arriving upon the shores of an irregular
+lake, of vast extent, the whole party embarked in yachts, and
+proceeded to a bridge which is thrown across the narrowest part of the
+lake, and beyond which it appeared to stretch away indefinitely.
+
+Upon the 17th of September Macartney and his suite were present at a
+ceremony which took place upon the anniversary of the emperor's
+birthday. Upon the morrow and following days splendid fetes succeeded
+each other, Tchien Lung participating in them with great zest. Dancers
+on the tight-rope, tumblers, conjurors (of unrivalled skill), and
+wrestlers, performed in succession. The natives of various portions of
+the empire appeared in their distinctive costumes and exhibited the
+different productions of their provinces. Music and dancing were
+succeeded by fireworks, which were very effective, although they were
+let off in daylight.
+
+The narrative says,--
+
+"Several of the designs were novel to the English. One of them I will
+describe. A large box was raised to a great height, and the bottom
+being removed as if by accident, an immense number of paper lamps fell
+from it. When they left the box they were all neatly folded; but in
+falling they opened by degrees and sprung one out of the other. Each
+then assumed a regular form, and suddenly a beautifully coloured light
+appeared. The Chinese seemed to understand the art of shaping the
+fireworks at their fancy. On either side of the large boxes were
+smaller ones, which opened in a similar manner, letting fall burning
+torches, of different shapes, as brilliant as burnished copper, and
+flashing like lightning at each movement of the wind. The display
+ended with the eruption of an artificial volcano."
+
+It is the usual custom for the Emperor of China to conclude his
+birthday festivities by hunting in the forests of Tartary; but in the
+present case advancing age rendered that diversion unwise, and his
+Majesty decided to return to Pekin, the English embassy being invited
+to precede him thither.
+
+Macartney, however, felt that it was time to terminate his mission. In
+the first place, it was not customary for ambassadors to reside long
+at the Chinese court; and in the second, the fact that the Chinese
+emperor defrayed the expenses of the embassy naturally induced him to
+curtail his stay. In a short time he received from Tchien Lung the
+reply to the letter of the King of England, and the presents intended
+for the English monarch, as well as a number for the members of his
+suite. This Macartney rightly interpreted as his _conge_!
+
+The English went back to Tong Chou Fou by way of the imperial canal.
+Upon this trip they saw the famous bird "Leutze," fishing for its
+master. It is a species of cormorant, and is so well trained that it
+is unnecessary to place either a cord or ring round its neck to
+prevent it from swallowing any of its prey.
+
+"Upon every boat or raft there are ten or twelve of these birds, ready
+to plunge the instant they receive a sign from their masters. It is
+curious to see them catch enormous fish, and carry them in their
+beaks."
+
+[Illustration: "The famous bird Leutze."]
+
+Macartney mentions a singular manner of catching wild ducks and other
+water-birds. Empty jars and calabashes are allowed to float upon the
+water for several days, until the birds are accustomed to the sight of
+them. A man then enters the water, places one of the jars upon his
+head, and advancing gently, seizes the feet of any bird which allows
+him to come near enough: he rapidly immerses it in the water to choke
+it, and then noiselessly continues his search until his bag is full.
+
+The embassy visited Canton and Macao, and thence returned to England.
+We need not dwell upon the return voyage.
+
+We must now consider that portion of Asia which may be called the
+interior. The first traveller to be noticed is Volney.
+
+Every one knows, by repute at least, his book on Ruins; but his
+account of his adventures in Egypt and Syria far surpasses it. There
+is nothing exaggerated in the latter; it is written in a quiet,
+precise manner, and is one of the most instructive of books. The
+members of the Egyptian Expedition refer to it as containing exact
+statements as to climate, the productions of the soil, and the manners
+of the inhabitants.
+
+Volney prepared himself most carefully for the journey, which was a
+great undertaking for him. He determined to leave nothing to chance,
+and upon reaching Syria he realized that he could not possibly acquire
+the knowledge of the country he desired unless he first made himself
+acquainted with the language of the people. He therefore retired to
+the monastery of Mar-Hannd, in Libiya, and devoted himself to the
+study of Arabic.
+
+Later on, in order to learn something of the life led by the wandering
+tribes of the Arabian desert, he joined company with a sheik, and
+accustomed himself to the use of a lance, and to live on horseback,
+thus qualifying himself to accompany the tribes in their excursions.
+Under their protection he visited the ruins of Palmyra and Baalbec,
+cities of the dead, known to us only by name.
+
+"His style of writing," says La Beuve, "is free from exaggeration, and
+marked by singular exactness and propriety. When, for example, he
+wishes to illustrate the quality of the Egyptian soil, and in what
+respect it differs from that of Africa, he speaks of 'this black,
+light, greasy earth,' which is brought up and deposited by the Nile.
+When he wishes to describe the warm winds of the desert, with their
+dry heat, he compares them 'to the impression which one receives upon
+opening a fierce oven to take out the bread;' according to his
+description, speaking of the fitful winds, he says they are not merely
+laden with fog, but gritty and powdery, and in reality full of fine
+dust, which penetrates everything; and of the sun, he says it
+'presents to view but an obscured disk.'"
+
+If such an expression may be used in speaking of a rigid statement of
+facts, Volney attained to true beauty of expression--to an actual
+physical beauty, so to speak, recalling the touch of Hippocrates in
+his "De Aere, Aquis et Locis." Although no geographical discoveries
+can be imputed to him, we must none the less recognize in him one of
+the first travellers who had a true conception of the importance of
+their task. His aim was always to give a true impression of the places
+he visited; and this in itself was no small merit, at a time when
+other explorers did not hesitate to enliven their narratives with
+imaginary details, with no recognition whatever of their true
+responsibility.
+
+The Abbe Barthelemy, who in 1788 was to publish his "Voyage du jeune
+Anacharsis," was already exercising a good deal of influence on public
+taste, by his popularity in society and position as a man of science,
+and drawing special attention to Greece and the neighbouring countries.
+It was evidently whilst attending his lessons that De Choiseul imbibed
+his love for history and archaeology.
+
+Nominated ambassador at Constantinople, De Choiseul determined to
+profit by the leisure he enjoyed in travelling as an artist and
+archaeologist through the Greece of Homer and Herodotus. Such a
+journey was the very thing to complete the education of the young
+ambassador, who was only twenty-four years of age, and if he knew
+himself, could not be said to have any acquaintance with the ways of
+the world.
+
+Sensible of his shortcomings, he surrounded himself with learned and
+scientific men, amongst them the Abbe Barthelemy, the Greek scholar,
+Ansse de Villoison, the poet Delille, the sculptor Fauvel, and the
+painter Cassas. In fact, in his "Picturesque History of Greece" he
+himself merely plays the _role_ of Maecenas.
+
+M. de Choiseul Gouffier engaged as private secretary a professor, the
+Abbe Jean-Baptiste Le Chevalier, who spoke Greek fluently. The latter,
+after a journey to London, where M. de Choiseul's business detained
+him long enough for him to learn English, went to Italy, and was
+detained at Venice by severe illness for seven months. After this he
+joined M. de Choiseul Gouffier at Constantinople.
+
+Le Chevalier occupied himself principally with the site of Troy. Well
+versed in the Iliad, he sought for, and believed he identified, the
+various localities mentioned in the Homeric poem.
+
+His able geographical and historical book at once provoked plentiful
+criticism. Upon the one side learned men, such as Bryant, declared the
+discoveries made by Choiseul to be illusory, for the reason that Troy,
+and, as a matter of course, the Ten Years Siege, existed only in the
+imagination of the Greek poet; whilst others, and principally the
+English portion of his critics, adopted his conclusions. The whole
+question was almost forgotten, when the discoveries made quite
+recently by Schliemann reopened the discussion.
+
+Guillaume-Antoine Olivier, who traversed the greater portion of the
+Western hemisphere, at the end of the last century, had a strange
+career. Employed by Berthier de Sauvigny to translate a statistical
+paper on Paris, he lost his patron and the payment for his labours in
+the first outburst of the Revolution. Wishing to employ his talent for
+natural history away from Paris, he was nominated, by the minister
+Roland, to a mission to the distant and little-known portions of the
+Ottoman Empire. A naturalist, named Bruguere, was associated with him.
+
+The two friends left Paris at the end of 1792, and were delayed for
+four months at Versailles, until a suitable ship was found for them.
+
+They only reached Constantinople at the end of the following May,
+carrying letters relating to their mission to M. de Semonville. But
+this ambassador had been recalled, and his successor, M. de Sainte
+Croix had heard nothing of their undertaking. What was the best thing
+to do whilst awaiting the reply to the inquiries sent to Paris by M.
+de Sainte Croix?
+
+The two friends could not remain inactive. They therefore decided to
+visit the shores of Asia Minor, and some islands in the Egyptian
+Archipelago.
+
+The French minister had excellent reasons for not supplying them with
+much money, and their own resources being limited, they were unable to
+do more than make a flying visit to these interesting countries.
+
+Upon their return to Constantinople they found a new ambassador, named
+Verninac, who had received instructions to send them to Persia, where
+they were to endeavour to awaken the sympathy of the government for
+France, and to induce it to declare war against Russia.
+
+At this time the most deplorable anarchy reigned in Persia. Usurpers
+succeeded each other upon the throne, to the great detriment of the
+welfare of the inhabitants. War was going on in Khorassan at the time
+that Olivier and Bruguere arrived. An opportunity occurred for them to
+join the shah in a country as yet unvisited by any European; but
+unfortunately Bruguere was in such bad health that they were not only
+forced to lose the chance, but were detained for four months in an
+obscure village buried amongst the mountains.
+
+In September, 1796, Mehemet returned to Teheran. His first act was to
+order a hundred Russian sailors whom he had taken prisoners on the
+Caspian Sea, to be put to death, and their limbs to be nailed outside
+his palace walls--a disgusting trophy worthy of the butcher tyrant.
+
+The following year Mehemet Ali was assassinated, and his nephew,
+Fehtah-Ali Shah, succeeded him, after a short struggle.
+
+It was difficult for Olivier to discharge his mission with this
+constant change of reigning sovereigns. He was forced to renew his
+negotiations with each succeeding prince. Finally, the travellers,
+realizing the impossibility of obtaining anything definite under such
+circumstances, returned to Europe, and left the question of alliance
+between France and Persia to a more favourable season. They stopped
+upon their homeward journey at Bagdad, Ispahan, Aleppo, Cyprus, and
+Constantinople.
+
+Although this journey had been fruitless as regarded diplomacy, and
+had contributed no new discovery to geography, Cuvier, in his eulogy
+of Olivier, assures us that, so far as natural history was concerned,
+much had been achieved. This may be the better credited, as Olivier
+was elected to the Institute as the successor to Daubenton.
+
+Cuvier, in academic style, says that the narrative of the voyage
+published, in three quarto volumes, was warmly received by the public.
+
+"It has been said," he continues, "that it might have been of greater
+interest if the censor had not eliminated certain portions; but
+allusions were found throughout the whole volume, which were
+inadmissible, as it does not do to say all we know, especially of
+Thamas Kouli Khan.
+
+"M. Olivier had no greater regard for his assertions than for his
+fortune; he quietly omitted all that he was told to leave out, and
+restricted himself to a quiet and simple account of what he had seen."
+
+A journey from Persia to Russia is not difficult; and was less so in
+the eighteenth century than to-day. As a matter of fact, Russia only
+became an European power in the days of Peter the Great. Until the
+reign of that monarch she had been in every particular--manners,
+customs, and inhabitants--Asiatic. With Peter the Great and Catherine
+II., however, commerce revived, high roads were made, the navy was
+created, and the various tribes became united into one nation.
+
+The empire was vast from the first, and conquest has added to its
+extent. Peter the Great ordered the compilation of charts, sent
+expeditions round the coast to collect particulars as to the climate,
+productions, and races of the different provinces of his empire; and
+at length he sent Behring upon the voyage which resulted in the
+discovery of the straits bearing his name.
+
+The example of the great emperor was followed by his successor,
+Catherine II. She attracted learned men to her court, and corresponded
+with the savants of the whole world. She succeeded in impressing the
+nations with a favourable idea of her subjects. Interest and curiosity
+were awakened, and the eyes of Western Europe were fixed upon Russia.
+It became recognized that a great nation was arising, and many doubts
+were entertained as to the result upon European interests. Prussia had
+already changed the balance of power in Europe, by her victories under
+Frederick II.; Russia possessed resources of her own, not only in men,
+but in silver and riches of every kind--still unknown or untested.
+
+Thus it came to pass that publications concerning that country
+possessed an attraction for politicians, and those interested in the
+welfare of their country, as well as for the scientific men to whom
+descriptions of manners and customs foreign to their experience were
+always welcome.
+
+No work had hitherto excelled that of the naturalist Pallas, which was
+translated into French between 1788-1793. It was a narrative of a
+journey across several provinces of the Russian empire. The success of
+this publication was well deserved.
+
+Peter Simon Pallas was a German naturalist, who had been summoned to
+St. Petersburg by Catherine II. in 1668, and elected by her a member
+of the Academy of Sciences. She understood the art of enlisting him in
+her service by her favours. Pallas, in acknowledgment of them,
+published his account of fossil remains in Siberia. England and France
+had just sent expeditions to observe the transit of Venus. Russia, not
+to be behindhand, despatched a party of learned men, of whom Pallas
+was one, to Siberia.
+
+Seven astronomers and geometers, five naturalists, and a large number
+of pupils, made up the party, which was thoroughly to explore the
+whole of the vast territory.
+
+For six whole years Pallas devoted himself to the successive
+explorations of Orenburg upon the Jaik, the rendezvous of the nomad
+tribes who wander upon the shores of the Caspian Sea; Gouriel, which
+is situated upon the borders of the great lake which is now drying up;
+the Ural Mountains, with their numberless iron-mines; Tobolsk, the
+capital of Siberia; the province of Koliwan, upon the northern slopes
+of the Atlas; Krasnojarsk, upon the Jenissei; and the immense lake of
+Bakali, and Daouria, on the frontiers of China. He also visited
+Astrakan; the Caucasus, with its varied and interesting inhabitants;
+and finally, he explored the Don, returning to St. Petersburg on the
+30th of July, 1774.
+
+It may well be believed that Pallas was no ordinary traveller. He was
+not merely a naturalist; he was interested in everything that affects
+humanity; geography, history, politics, commerce, religion, science,
+art, all occupied his attention; and it is impossible to read his
+narrative without admiring his enlightened patriotism, or without
+recognizing the penetration of the sovereign who understood the art of
+securing his services.
+
+When his narrative was once arranged, written, and published, Pallas
+had no idea of contenting himself with the laurels he had gained. Work
+was his recreation, and he found occupation in assisting in the
+compilation of a map of Russia.
+
+His natural inclinations led him to the study of botany, and by his
+works upon that subject he obtained a distinctive place among Russian
+naturalists.
+
+One of his later undertakings was a description of Southern Russia, a
+physical and topographical account of the province of Taurius--a work
+which, originally published in French, was afterwards translated into
+English and German.
+
+Delighted with this country, which he had visited in 1793-94, he
+desired to settle there. The empress bestowed some of the crown lands
+upon him, and he transported his family to Simpheropol.
+
+Pallas profited by the opportunity to undertake a new journey in the
+northern provinces of the empire, the Steppes of the Volga, and the
+countries which border the Caspian Sea as far as the Caucasus. He then
+explored the Crimea. He had seen parts of the country twenty years
+before, and he now found great changes. Although he complains of the
+devastation of the forests, he commends the increase of agricultural
+districts, and the centres of industries which had been created. The
+Crimea is known to be considerably improved since that time--it is
+impossible to foresee what it may yet become.
+
+Enthusiastic though he was at first in his admiration of this province,
+Pallas was exposed to every kind of treachery on the part of the
+Tartars. His wife died in the Crimea; and finally, disgusted with the
+country and its inhabitants, he returned to Breton to end his days. He
+died there on the 8th of September, 1811.
+
+He left two important works, from which naturalists, geographers,
+statesmen, and merchants, were able to gather much trustworthy
+information upon countries then but little known, and the commodities
+and resources of which were destined to have a large influence over
+European markets.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+THE TWO AMERICAS.
+
+The western coast of America--Juan de Fuca and De Fonte--The three
+voyages of Behring and Tschirikow--Exploration of the straits of De
+Fuca--Survey of the Archipelago of New Georgia and of part of the
+American coast--Exploration of the interior of America--Samuel Hearn--
+Discovery of the Coppermine river--Mackenzie, and the river named
+after him--Fraser river--South America--Survey of the Amazon by
+Condamine--Journey of Humboldt and Bonpland--Teneriffe--The Guachero
+cavern--The "Llanos"--The Electric eels--The Amazon, Negro, and
+Orinoco rivers--The earth-eaters--Results of the journey--Humboldt's
+second journey--The "Volcanitos," or little volcanoes--The cascade at
+Tequendama--The bridge of Icononzo--Crossing the Brindisi on men's
+backs--Pinto and Pinchincha--Ascent of Chimborazo--The Andes--Lima--
+The transit of Mercury--Exploration of Mexico--Puebla and Cofre de
+Perote--Return to Europe.
+
+
+We have more than once had occasion to speak of expeditions for the
+survey of the coasts of America. We have told of the attempts of
+Fernando Cortes and of the voyages and explorations of Drake, Cook, La
+Perouse, and Marchand. It will be well now to go back for a time, and
+with Fleurieu sum up the series of voyages along the western coast of
+America, to the close of the eighteenth century.
+
+[Illustration: Map of North-West America.]
+
+In 1537, Cortes with Francisco de Ulloa, discovered the huge peninsula
+of California, and sailed over the greater part of the long and narrow
+strait now known as the Vermilion Sea.
+
+He was succeeded by Vasquez Coronado and Francisco Alarcon, who--the
+former by sea, and the latter by land--devoted themselves to seeking
+the channel which was erroneously supposed to connect the Atlantic and
+Pacific. They did not, however, penetrate beyond 36 degrees N. lat.
+
+Two years later, in 1542, the Portuguese Rodrique de Cabrillo, reached
+44 degrees N. lat., where the intense cold, sickness, want of
+provisions, and the bad state of his vessel, compelled him to turn
+back. He made no actual discovery, but he ascertained that, from Port
+Natividad to the furthest point reached by him, the coast-line was
+unbroken. The channel of communication seemed to recede before all
+explorers.
+
+The little success met with appears to have discouraged the Spaniards,
+for at this time they retired from the ranks of the explorers. It was
+an Englishman, Drake, who, after having sailed along the western coast
+as far as the Straits of Magellan, and devastated the Spanish
+possessions, reached the forty-eighth degree, explored the whole coast,
+and, returning the same way, gave to the vast districts included
+within ten degrees the name of New Albion.
+
+Next came, in 1592, the greatly fabulous voyage of Juan de Fuca, who
+claimed to have found the long-sought Strait of Anian, when he had but
+found the channel dividing Vancouver's Island from the mainland.
+
+In 1602 Viscaino laid the foundations of Port Monterey in California,
+and forty years later took place that much contested voyage of Admiral
+De Fuente, or De Fonte according as one reckons him a Spaniard or a
+Portuguese, which has been the text of so many learned discussions and
+ingenious suppositions. To him we owe the discovery of the Archipelago
+of St. Lazarus above Vancouver's Island; but all that he says about
+the lakes and large towns he claims to have visited must be relegated
+to the realms of romance, as well as his assertion that he discovered
+a communication between the two oceans.
+
+[Illustration: Port Monterey. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
+
+In the eighteenth century the assertions of travellers were no longer
+blindly accepted. They were examined and sifted, those parts only
+being believed which accorded with the well authenticated accounts of
+others. Buache, Delisle, and above all Fleurieu, inaugurated the
+prolific literature of historical criticism, and we have every reason
+to be grateful to them.
+
+The Russians, as we know, had greatly extended the field of their
+knowledge, and there was every reason to suppose that their hunters
+and Cossacks would soon reach America, if, as was then believed, the
+two continents were connected in the north. But from such
+unprofessional travellers no trustworthy scientific details could be
+expected.
+
+A few years before his death the Emperor Peter I. drew up, with his
+own hands, a plan of an expedition, with instructions to its members,
+which he had long had in view, for ascertaining whether Asia and
+America are united, or separated by a strait.
+
+The arsenal and forts of Kamtchatka being unable to supply the
+necessary men, stores, &c., captains, sailors, equipment, and
+provisions, had to be imported from Europe.
+
+Vitus Behring, a Dane, and Alexis Tschirikow, a Russian, who had both
+given many a proof of skill and knowledge, were appointed to the
+command of the expedition, which consisted of two vessels built at
+Kamtchatka. They were not ready to put to sea until July 20th, 1720.
+Steering north-east along the coast of Asia, of which he never for a
+moment lost sight, Behring discovered, on the 15th August, in 67
+degrees 18 minutes N. lat. a cape beyond which the coast stretched
+away westwards.
+
+In this first voyage Behring did not apparently see the coast of
+America, though he probably passed through the strait to which
+posterity has given his name. The fabulous strait of Anian gave place
+to Behring Straits. A second voyage made by the same explorers the
+following year was without results.
+
+Not until June 4th, 1741, were Behring and Tschirikow in a position to
+start again. This time they meant to bear to the east after reaching
+50 degrees N. lat. till they should come to the coast of America; but
+the two vessels were separated in a gale of wind on the 28th August,
+and were unable to find each other again throughout the trip. On the
+18th July Behring discerned the American continent in 58 degrees 28
+minutes N. lat. and the succeeding days were devoted to the survey of
+the vast bay between Capes St. Elias and St. Hermogenes.
+
+Behring spent the whole of August in sailing about the islands known
+as the Schumagin archipelago, off the peninsula of Alaska; and after a
+struggle, lasting until the 24th September, with contrary winds, he
+sighted the most southerly cape of the peninsula, and discovered part
+of the Aleutian group.
+
+Exhausted by long illness, however, the explorer was now no longer
+able to direct the course of his vessel, and could not prevent her
+from running aground on the little island bearing his name. There, on
+the 8th December, 1741, this brave man and skilful explorer perished
+miserably.
+
+The remnant of his crew who survived the fatigues and privations of
+winter in this desolate spot, succeeded in making a large sloop of the
+remains of the vessel, in which they returned to Kamtchatka.
+
+Meanwhile Tschirikow, after waiting for his superior officer until the
+25th June, made land between 55 degrees 56 minutes N. lat., where he
+lost two boats with their crews, without being able to find out what
+had become of them. Unable after this catastrophe to open
+communication with the natives, he went back to Kamtchatka.
+
+The way was now open, and adventurers, merchants, and naval officers
+eagerly rushed in, directing their efforts carefully to the Aleutian
+Islands and the peninsula of Alaska.
+
+The expeditions sent out by the English, and the progress made by the
+Russians, had, however, aroused the jealousy and anxiety of the
+Spanish, who feared lest their rivals should establish themselves in a
+country nominally belonging to Spain, though she owned not a single
+colony in it.
+
+The Viceroy of Mexico now remembered the discovery of an excellent
+port by Viscaino, and resolved to found a "presidio" there. Two
+expeditions started simultaneously, the one by land, under Don Gaspar
+de Partola, the other by sea, consisting of two packets, the _San
+Carlos_ and _San Antonio_, and after a year's search found again the
+harbour of Monterey, alluded to by Viscaino.
+
+After this expedition the Spanish continued the exploration of the
+Californian coast. The most celebrated voyages were those of Don Juan
+de Ayala and of La Bodega, which took place in 1775, and resulted in
+the discovery of Cape Engano and Guadalupe Bay. Next to these rank the
+expeditions of Arteaga and Maurelle.
+
+We have already related what was done by Cook, La Perouse, and
+Marchand, so we can pass on to say a few words on the expeditions of
+Vancouver. This officer, who had accompanied Cook on his second and
+third voyage, was naturally appointed to the command of the expedition
+sent out by the English government with a view to settling the
+disputes with the Spanish government as to Nootka Sound.
+
+George Vancouver was commissioned to obtain from the Spanish
+authorities the formal cession of this great harbour, of such vast
+importance to the fur trade. He was then to survey the whole of the
+north-west coast, from 30 degrees N. lat. to Cook's River in 61
+degrees N. lat. Lastly, he was to give special attention to the
+Straits of De Fuca and the bay explored in 1749 by the _Washington_.
+
+The two vessels, the _Discovery_ of 340 tons, and the _Chatham_ of
+135--the latter under the command of Captain Broughton--left Falmouth
+on the 1st of April, 1791. After touching at Teneriffe, Simon Bay, and
+the Cape of Good Hope, Vancouver steered south-wards, sighted St.
+Paul's Island, and sailed towards New Holland, between the routes
+taken by Dampier and Marion, and through latitudes which had not yet
+been traversed. On the 27th September was sighted part of the coast of
+New Holland, ending in abrupt and precipitous cliffs, to which the
+name of Cape Chatham was given. As many of his crew were down with
+dysentery, Vancouver decided to anchor in the first harbour he came to,
+to get water, wood, and above all provisions, of which he stood sorely
+in need. Port George III. was the first reached, where ducks, curlews,
+swans, fish, and oysters abounded; but no communication could be
+opened with the natives, although a recently abandoned village of some
+twenty huts was seen.
+
+We need not follow Vancouver in his cruise along the south-west coast
+of Holland, as we shall learn nothing new from it.
+
+On the 28th November Van Diemen's Land was doubled, and on the 2nd
+December the coast of New Zealand was reached and anchor cast by the
+two vessels in Dusky Bay. Here Vancouver completed the survey left
+unfinished by Cook. A gale soon separated the _Discovery_ from the
+_Chatham_, which was found again in Matavai Bay, Tahiti. During the
+voyage there from Dusky Bay, Vancouver discovered some rocky islands,
+which he called the Snares, and a large island named Oparra, whilst
+Captain Broughton had discovered Chatham Island, on the east of New
+Zealand. The incidents of the stay at Tahiti resemble those of Cook's
+story too closely for repetition.
+
+On the 24th January the two vessels started for the Sandwich Islands,
+and stopped for a short time off Owyhee, Waohoo, and Ottoway. Since
+the murder of Cook many changes had taken place in this archipelago.
+English and American vessels now sometimes visited it to take whales,
+or trade in furs, and their captains had given the natives a taste for
+brandy and fire-arms. Quarrels between the petty chiefs had become
+more frequent, the most complete anarchy prevailed everywhere, and the
+number of inhabitants was already greatly diminished.
+
+[Illustration: Map of the two Americas.]
+
+On the 17th March, 1792, Vancouver left the Sandwich Islands and
+steered for America, of which he soon sighted the part called by Drake
+New Albion. Here he almost immediately met Captain Grey, who was
+supposed to have penetrated, in the _Washington_, into De Fuca Strait,
+and discovered a vast sea. Grey at once disavowed the discoveries with
+which he was so generously credited, explaining that he had only
+sailed fifty miles up the strait, which runs from east to west till it
+reaches a spot where, according to some natives, it veers to the north
+and disappears.
+
+Vancouver in his turn entered De Fuca Strait, and recognized Discovery
+Port, Admiralty Entry, Birch Bay, Desolation Sound, Johnston Strait,
+and Broughton Archipelago. Before reaching the northern extremity of
+this long arm of the sea, he met two small Spanish vessels under the
+command of Quadra. The two captains compared notes, and gave their
+names to the chief island of the large group known collectively as New
+Georgia.
+
+Vancouver next visited Nootka Sound and the Columbia River, whence he
+sailed to San Francisco, off which he anchored. It will be understood
+that it is impossible to follow the details of the minute survey of
+the vast stretch of coast between Cape Mendocino and Port Conclusion,
+in N. lat. 56 degrees 37 minutes, which required no less than three
+successive trips.
+
+"Now," says the great navigator, "that we have achieved the chief aim
+of the king in ordering this voyage, I flatter myself that our very
+detailed survey of the north-west coast of America will dispel all
+doubts, and do away with all erroneous opinions as to a north-west
+passage; surely no one will now believe in there being a communication
+between the North Pacific and the interior of the American continent
+in the part traversed by us."
+
+Leaving Nootka, to survey the coast of South America before returning
+to Europe, Vancouver touched at the small Cocoa-Nut Island--which, as
+we have already observed, little deserves its name--cast anchor off
+Valparaiso, doubled Cape Horn, took in water at St. Helena, and
+re-entered the Thames on the 12th September, 1795.
+
+The fatigue incidental to this long expedition had so undermined the
+health of the explorer that he died in May, 1798, leaving the account
+of his voyage to be finished by his brother.
+
+Throughout the arduous survey, occupying four years, of 900 miles of
+coast, the _Discovery_ and _Chatham_ lost but two men. It will be seen
+from this how apt a pupil of Cook the great navigator was; and we do
+not know whether most to admire in Vancouver his care for his sailors
+and humanity to the natives, or the wonderful nautical skill he
+displayed in this dangerous cruise.
+
+While explorers thus succeeded each other on the western coast of
+America, colonists were not idle inland. Already established on the
+borders of the Atlantic, where a series of states had been founded
+from Florida to Canada, the white men were now rapidly forcing their
+way westwards. Trappers, and _coureurs des bois_, as the French
+hunters were called, had discovered vast tracts of land suitable for
+cultivation, and many English squatters had already taken root, not,
+however, without numerous conflicts with the original owners of the
+soil, whom they daily tried to drive into the interior. Emigrants were
+soon attracted in large numbers by the fertility of a virgin soil, and
+the more liberal constitution of the various states.
+
+Their number increased to such an extent, that at the end of the
+seventeenth century the heirs of Lord Baltimore estimated the produce
+of the sale of their lands at three thousand pounds; and in the middle
+of the following century, 1750, the successors of William Penn also
+made a profit ten times as great as the original price of their
+property. Yet emigration was even then not sufficiently rapid, and
+convicts were introduced. Maryland numbered 1981 in 1750. Many
+scandalous abuses also resulted from the compulsory signing by new
+comers of agreements they did not understand.
+
+Although the lands bought of the Indians were far from being all
+occupied, the English colonists continued to push their way inland, at
+the risk of encounters with the legitimate owners of the soil.
+
+In the north the Hudson's Bay Company, holding a monopoly of the fur
+trade, were always on the look-out for new hunting-grounds, for those
+originally explored were soon exhausted. Their trappers made their way
+far into the western wilds, and gained valuable information from the
+Indians whom they pressed into their service, and taught to get drunk.
+By this means the existence of a river flowing northwards, past some
+copper-mines, from which some natives brought fine specimens to Fort
+Prince of Wales, was ascertained. The company at once, i.e. in 1769,
+decided to send out an expedition, to the command of which they
+appointed Samuel Hearn.
+
+For a journey to the Arctic regions, where provisions are difficult to
+obtain, and the cold is intense, a few well-seasoned men are required,
+who can endure the fatigue of an arduous march over snow, and bear up
+against hunger. Hearn took with him only two whites, and a few Indians
+on whom he could depend.
+
+In spite of the great skill of the guides, who knew the country, and
+were familiar with the habits of the game it contained, provisions
+soon failed. Two hundred miles from Fort Prince of Wales the Indians
+abandoned Hearn and his two companions, who were obliged to retrace
+their steps.
+
+The chief of the expedition, however, was a rough sailor, accustomed
+to privations, so he was not discouraged. If he had failed the first
+time, that was no reason why a second attempt should not succeed.
+
+In March, 1770, Hearn started again to try and cross the unknown
+districts. This time he was alone with five Indians, for he had
+noticed that the inability of the whites to endure fatigue excited the
+contempt of the natives. He had penetrated 500 miles when the severity
+of the weather compelled him to wait for a less severe temperature. He
+had had a terrible experience. At one time to have, indeed, more game
+than can be eaten; but more often to have no food whatever, and be
+compelled for a week at a time to gnaw old leather, pick bones which
+had been thrown aside, or to seek, often in vain, for a few berries on
+the trees; and lastly, to endure fearful cold--such is the life of an
+explorer in these Arctic regions.
+
+Hearn started once more in April, wandered about the woods until
+August, and had arranged to spend the winter with an Indian tribe
+which had received him well, when an accident which deprived him of
+his quadrant compelled him to continue his journey.
+
+Privations, miseries, and disappointments, had not quenched the ardour
+of Hearn's indomitable spirit. He started again on the 7th December,
+and penetrating westwards below the 60th parallel N. lat. he came to a
+river. Here he built a canoe, and went in it down the stream, which
+flowed into an innumerable series of large and small lakes. Finally,
+on the 13th July, 1771, he reached the Coppermine River. The Indians
+with him now declared that they had been for some weeks in the country
+of the Esquimaux, and that they meant to massacre all they should meet
+of that hated race.
+
+An encounter very soon took place.
+
+"Coming," says Hearn, "upon a party of Esquimaux asleep in their tents,
+the Indians fell upon them suddenly, and I was compelled to witness
+the massacre of the poor creatures."
+
+Of twenty individuals, not one escaped the sanguinary rage of the
+Indians; and they put to death with indescribable tortures an old
+woman who had in the first instance eluded them.
+
+"After this horrible carnage," says Hearn, "we sat down on the grass,
+and made a good dinner off fresh salmon."
+
+Here the river widened considerably. Had Hearn arrived at its mouth?
+The water was still quite sweet. There were, however, signs of a tide
+on the shores, and a number of seals were disporting themselves in the
+water. A quantity of whale blubber was found in the tents of the
+Esquimaux. Everything in fact combined to prove that the sea was near.
+Hearn seized his telescope, and saw stretching before him a huge sheet
+of water, dotted with islands. There was no longer any doubt; it was
+the sea!
+
+On the 30th June Hearn got back to the English posts, after an absence
+of no less than a year and five months.
+
+The company recognized the immense service just rendered by Hearn, by
+appointing him Governor of Fort Prince of Wales. During his expedition
+to Hudson's Bay, La Perouse visited this post, and there found the
+journal of Samuel Hearn's expedition. The French navigator returned it,
+on condition that he would publish it. We do not know why its
+appearance in accordance with the promise given by the English
+traveller to the French sailor was delayed until 1795.
+
+Not until the close of the eighteenth century did the immense chain of
+lakes, rivers, and portages become known, which, emanating from Lake
+Superior, receive all the waters flowing from the Rocky Mountains, and
+divert them to the Arctic Ocean. It was to the brothers Frobisher, fur
+traders, and to a Mr. Pond, who reached Athabasca, that their
+discovery is partially due.
+
+Thanks to their efforts, travelling in these parts became less
+difficult. One explorer succeeded another, posts were established, and
+the country was opened to all comers. Soon after a rumour was spread
+of the discovery of a large river flowing in a north-westerly
+direction.
+
+It was Alexander Mackenzie who gave his name to it. Starting on the
+3rd June, 1789, from Fort Chippewyan, on the southern shores of the
+Lake of the Hills, accompanied by a few Canadians, and several Indians
+who had been with Samuel Hearn, he reached 67 degrees 45 minutes N.
+lat., where he heard that the sea was not far off on the east, but
+that he was even nearer to it on the west. It was evident that he was
+quite close to the north-western extremity of America.
+
+On the 12th July, Mackenzie reached a large sheet of shallow water
+covered with ice, which he could not believe to be the sea, though no
+land could be seen on the horizon. It was, however, the Northern Ocean,
+as he became assured when he saw the water rising, although the wind
+was not violent. The tide was coming in! The traveller then gained an
+island at a little distance from the shore, from which he saw several
+whales gambolling in the water. He therefore named the island, which
+is situated in N. lat. 69 degrees 11 minutes, Whale Island. On the
+12th September the expedition safely returned to Fort Chippewyan.
+
+Three years later Mackenzie, whose thirst for discovery was unslaked,
+ascended Peace River, which rises in the Rocky Mountains. In 1793,
+after forcing his way across this rugged chain, he made out on the
+other side the Tacoutche-Tesse River, which flows in a south-westerly
+direction. In the midst of dangers and privations more easily imagined
+than described, Mackenzie descended this river to its mouth, below
+Prince of Wales Islands. There, he wrote with a mixture of grease and
+vermilion, the following laconic but eloquent inscription on a wall of
+rock: "Alexander Mackenzie, come from Canada overland, July 22nd,
+1793." On the 24th August he re-entered Fort Chippewyan.
+
+[Illustration: Mackenzie's first view of the North Pacific Ocean.]
+
+In South America no scientific expedition took place during the first
+half of the eighteenth century. We have now only to speak of Condamine.
+We have already told of his discoveries in America, explaining how
+when the work was done he had allowed Bougner to return to Europe, and
+left Jussieu to continue the collection of unknown plants and animals
+which was to enrich science, whilst he himself went down the Amazon to
+its Mouth.
+
+"Condamine," says Maury in his "Histoire de l'Academie des Sciences,"
+"may be called the Humboldt of the eighteenth century. An intellectual
+and scientific man, he gave proof in this memorable expedition of an
+heroic devotion to the progress of knowledge. The funds granted to him
+by the king for his expedition were not sufficient; he added 100,000
+livres from his private purse; and the fatigue and suffering he
+underwent led to the loss of his ears and legs. The victim of his
+enthusiasm for science, on his return home he met with nothing but
+ridicule and sarcasm from a public who could not understand a martyr
+who aimed at winning anything but Heaven. In him was recognized, not
+the indefatigable explorer who had braved so many dangers, but the
+infirm and deaf M. de Condamine, who always held his ear-trumpet in
+his hand. Content, however, with the recognition of his fellow-savants,
+to which Buffon gave such eloquent expression in his reply to the
+address at his reception at the French Academy, Condamine consoled
+himself by composing songs; and maintained until his death, which was
+hastened by all he had undergone, the zeal for information on all
+subjects, even torture, which led him to question the executioner on
+the scaffold of Damiens."
+
+[Illustration: Portrait of Condamine. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+Few travellers before Condamine had had an opportunity of penetrating
+into Brazil. The learned explorer hoped, therefore, to render his
+journey useful by making a map of the course of the river, and putting
+down all his observations on the singular costumes worn by the natives
+of that little frequented country.
+
+After Orellana, whose adventurous trip we have related, Pedro de Ursua
+was sent in 1559 by the Viceroy of Peru to seek for Lake Parima and
+the El Dorado. He was murdered by a rebel soldier, who committed all
+manner of outrages on his way down the river, and finished his course
+by being abandoned on Trinity Island.
+
+Efforts of this kind did not throw much light on the course of the
+river. The Portuguese were more fortunate. In 1636 and 1637 Pedro
+Texeira with forty-seven canoes, and a large number of Spaniards and
+Indians, followed the Amazon as far as the junction of its tributary
+the Napo, and then ascended, first it, and afterwards the Coca, to
+within thirty miles of Quito, which he reached with a few men.
+
+The map drawn up by Sanson after this trip, and as a matter of course
+copied by all geographers, was extremely defective, and until 1717
+there was no other. At that time the copy of a map drawn up by Father
+Fritz, a German missionary, came out in Vol. xii. of the "Lettres
+Edifiantes," a valuable publication, containing a multitude of
+interesting historical and geographical facts. In this map it was
+shown that the Napo is not the true source of the Amazon, and that the
+latter, under the name of the Maranon, issues from Lake Guanuco,
+thirty leagues east of Lima. The lower portion of the course of the
+river was badly drawn, as Father Fritz was too ill when he went down
+it to observe closely.
+
+Leaving Tarqui, five leagues from Cuenca, on the 11th May, 1743,
+Condamine passed Zaruma, a town once famous for its gold-mines, and
+having crossed several rivers on the hanging bridges, which look like
+huge hammocks slung from one side to the other, reached Loxa, four
+degrees from the line, and 400 fathoms lower than Quito. Here he
+noticed a remarkable difference of temperature, and found the
+mountains to be mere hills compared with those of Quito.
+
+Between Loxa and Jaen de Bracamoros the last buttresses of the Andes
+are crossed. In this district rain falls every day throughout the year,
+so that a long stay cannot be made there. The whole country has
+declined greatly from its former prosperity. Loyola, Valladolid, Jaen,
+and the greater number of the Peruvian towns at a distance from the
+sea, and the main road between Carthagena and Lima, were in
+Condamine's time little more than hamlets. Yet forests of cocoa-nut
+trees grow all around Jaen, the natives thinking no more of them than
+they do of the gold dust brought down by their rivers.
+
+Condamine embarked on the Chincipe, wider here than the Seine at Paris,
+and went down it as far as its junction with the Maranon, beyond which
+the latter river becomes navigable, although its course is broken by a
+number of falls and rapids, and in many places narrows till it is but
+twenty fathoms wide. The most celebrated of these narrows is the
+_pongo_, or gate, of Manseriche, in the heart of the Cordillera, where
+the Amazon has hewn for itself a bed only fifty-five fathoms wide,
+with all but perpendicular sides. Condamine, attended only by a single
+negro, met with an almost unparalleled adventure on a raft in this
+pongo.
+
+"The stream," he says, "the height of which had diminished twenty-five
+feet in thirty-six hours, continued to decrease in volume. In the
+middle of the night, part of a large branch of a tree caught between
+the woodwork of my boat, penetrating further and further as the latter
+sunk with the water, so that if I had not been awake and on guard at
+the time, I should have found myself hanging from a tree, on my raft.
+The least of the evils threatening me would have been the loss of my
+journals and note-books, the fruit of eight years of work. Fortunately,
+I eventually found means to free my raft, and float it again."
+
+[Illustration: Celebrated narrows of Manseriche. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+In the midst of the woods near the ruined town of Santiago, where
+Condamine arrived on the 10th July, lived the Xibaro Indians, who had
+been for a century in revolt against the Spaniards, who tried to force
+them to labour in the gold-mines.
+
+Beyond the pongo of Manseriche a new world was entered, a perfect
+ocean of fresh water--a labyrinth of lakes, rivers, and channels, set
+in an impenetrable forest. Although he had lived in the open air for
+more than seven years, Condamine was struck dumb by this novel
+spectacle of water and trees only, with nothing else besides. Leaving
+Borja on the 14th July, the traveller soon passed the mouth of the
+Morona, which comes down from the volcano of Sangay, the ashes from
+which are sometimes flung beyond Guayaquil. He next passed the three
+mouths of the Pastaca, a river at this time so much swollen that the
+width of no one of its mouths could be estimated.
+
+On the 19th of the same month Condamine reached Laguna, where Pedro
+Maldonado, governor of the province of Esmeraldas, who had come down
+the Pastaca, had been waiting for him for six weeks. At this time
+Laguna was a large community, of some thousand Indians capable of
+bearing arms, who recognized the authority of the missionaries of the
+different tribes.
+
+"In making a map of the course of the Amazon," says Condamine, "I
+provided myself with a resource against the _ennui_ of a quiet voyage
+with nothing to break the monotony of the scenery, though that scenery
+was new to me. My attention was continually on the strain as, compass
+and watch in hand, I noted the deflexions in the course of the river,
+the time occupied in passing from one bend to another, the variations
+in the breadth of its bed and in that of the mouths of its tributaries,
+the angle formed by the latter at the confluence, the position and
+size of the islands, and above all the rate of the current and that of
+the canoe. Now on land and now in the canoe, employing various modes
+of measurement, which it would be superfluous to explain here, every
+instant was occupied. I often sounded, and measured geometrically the
+breadth of the river and that of its tributaries. I took the height of
+the sun at the meridian every day, and I noted its amplitude at its
+rising and setting, wherever I went."
+
+On the 25th July, after having passed the Tigre River, Condamine came
+to a new mission station, that of a tribe called Yameos, recently
+rescued from the woods by the Fathers. Their language is difficult to
+learn, and their mode of pronouncing it extraordinary. Some of their
+words are nine or ten syllables long, and yet they can only count up
+to three. They use a kind of pea-shooter with great skill, firing from
+it small arrows tipped with a poison which causes instantaneous death.
+
+The following day the explorer passed the mouth of the Ucayale, one of
+the most important of the tributaries of the Maranon, and which might
+even be its source. Beyond it the main stream widens sensibly.
+
+Condamine reached on the 27th the mission station of the Omaguas,
+formerly a powerful nation, whose dwelling extended along the banks of
+the Amazon for a distance of 200 leagues below the Napo. Originally
+strangers in the land, they are supposed to have come down some river
+rising in Granada, and to have fled from the Spanish yoke. The word
+Omagua means flat-head in Peruvian, and these people have the singular
+custom of squeezing the foreheads of new-born babies between two flat
+pieces of wood, to make them, as they say, resemble the full moon.
+They also use two curious plants, the floripondio and the curupa,
+which makes them drunk for twenty-four hours, and causes very
+wonderful dreams. So that opium and hatchich have their counterparts
+in Peru.
+
+[Illustration: Omagua Indians.]
+
+Cinchona, ipecacuanha, simaruba, sarsaparilla, guaiacum, cocoa, and
+vanilla grow on the banks of the Maranon, as does also a kind of
+india-rubber, of which the natives make bottles, boots, and syringes,
+which, according to Condamine, require no piston. They are of the
+shape of hollow pears, and are pierced at the end with a little hole,
+into which a pipe is fitted. This contrivance is much used by the
+Omaguas; and when a fete is given, the host, as a matter of politeness,
+always presents one to each of his guests, who use them before any
+ceremonial banquet.
+
+Changing boats at San Joaquin, Condamine arrived at the mouth of Napo
+in time to witness, during the night of the 31st July or the 1st
+August, the emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter, so that he was
+able to determine exactly the latitude and longitude of the spot--a
+valuable observation, from which all other positions on the journey
+could be calculated.
+
+Pevas, which was reached the next day, is the last of the Spanish
+missions on the Maranon. The Indians collected there were neither all
+of the same race nor all converts to Christianity. They still wore
+bone ornaments in the nostrils and the lips, and had their cheeks
+riddled with holes, in which were fixed the feathers of birds of every
+colour.
+
+St. Paul is the first Portuguese mission. There the river is no less
+than 900 fathoms wide, and often rises in violent storms. The
+traveller was agreeably surprised to find the Indian women possessed
+of pet birds, locks, iron keys, needles, looking-glasses, and other
+European utensils, procured at Para in exchange for cocoa. The native
+canoes are much more convenient than those used by the Indians of the
+Spanish possessions. They are in fact regular little brigantines,
+sixty feet long by seven wide, manned by forty oarsmen.
+
+Between St. Paul and Coari several large and beautiful rivers flow
+into the Amazon. On the south the Yutay, Yuruca, Tefe, and Coari; on
+the north the Putumayo and Yupura. On the shores of the last-named
+river lives a cannibal race. Here Texeira set up a barrier, on the
+26th June, 1639, which was to mark the frontier between the district
+in which the Brazilian and Peruvian languages respectively were to be
+used in dealing with the Indians.
+
+Purus River and the Rio Negro, connecting the Orinoco with the Amazon,
+the banks dotted with Portuguese missions under the direction of the
+monks of Mount Carmel, were successively surveyed. The first reliable
+information on the important geographical fact of the communication
+between the two great rivers, is to be found in the works of Condamine,
+and his sagacious comments on the journeys of the missionaries who
+preceded him. It was in these latitudes that the golden lake of Parime
+and the fabulous town of Manoa del Dorado are said to have been
+situated. Here, too, lived the Manaos Indians, who so long resisted
+the Portuguese.
+
+Now were passed successively the mouth of the Madera River--so called
+on account of the quantity of timber which drifts down from it, the
+port of Pauxis--beyond which the Maranon takes the name of the Amazon,
+and where the tide begins to be felt, although the sea is more than
+200 miles distant--and the fortress of Topayos, at the mouth of a
+river coming down from the mines of Brazil, on the borders of which
+live the Tupinambas.
+
+Not until September did the mountains come in sight on the
+north--quite a novel spectacle, since for two months Condamine had not
+seen a single hill. They were the first buttresses of the Guiana chain.
+
+On the 6th September, opposite Fort Paru, Condamine left the Amazon,
+and passed by a natural canal to the Xingu River, called by Father
+D'Acunha the Paramaribo. The port of Curupa was then reached, and
+lastly Para, a large town, with regular streets and houses of rough or
+hewn stone. To complete his map, the explorer was obliged to visit the
+mouth of the Amazon, where he embarked for Cayenne, arriving there on
+the 20th February, 1774.
+
+This long voyage had the most important results. For the first time
+the course of the Amazon had been laid down in a thoroughly scientific
+manner, and the connexion between it and the Orinoco ascertained.
+Moreover Condamine had collected a vast number of interesting
+observations on natural history, physical geography, astronomy, and
+the new science of anthropology, then in its earliest infancy.
+
+We have now to relate the travels of a man who recognized, better than
+any one else had done, the connexion between geography and the other
+physical sciences. We allude to Alexander von Humboldt. To him is due
+the credit of having opened to travellers this fertile source of
+knowledge.
+
+[Illustration: Portrait of Alex. de Humboldt. (Fac-simile of early
+engraving.)]
+
+Born at Berlin, in 1759, Humboldt's earliest studies were carried on
+under Campe, the well-known editor of many volumes of travels. Endowed
+with a great taste for botany, Humboldt made friends at the university
+of Gottingen with Forster the younger, who had just made the tour of
+the world with Captain Cook. This friendship, and the enthusiastic
+accounts given of his adventures by Forster, probably did much to
+rouse in Humboldt a longing to travel. He took the lead in the study
+of geology, botany, chemistry, and animal magnetism; and to perfect
+himself in the various sciences, he visited England, Holland, Italy,
+and Switzerland. In 1797, after the death of his mother, who objected
+to his leaving Europe, he went to Paris, where he became acquainted
+with Aime Bonpland, a young botanist, with whom he at once agreed to
+go on several exploring expeditions.
+
+It had been arranged that Humboldt should accompany Captain Baudin,
+but the delay in the starting of his expedition exhausted the young
+enthusiast's patience, and he went to Marseilles with the intention of
+joining the French army in Egypt. For two whole months he waited for
+the sailing of the frigate which was to take him; and, weary of
+inaction, he went to Spain with his friend Bonpland, in the hope of
+obtaining permission to visit the Spanish possessions in America.
+
+This was no easy matter, but Humboldt was a man of rare perseverance.
+He was thoroughly well-informed, he had first-rate introductions, and
+he was, moreover, already becoming known. In spite, therefore, of the
+extreme reluctance of the government, he was at last authorized to
+explore the Spanish colonies, and take any astronomical or geodesic
+observations he chose.
+
+The two friends left Corunna on the 5th June, 1799, and reached the
+Canaries thirteen days later. Of course, as naturalists they were in
+duty bound not to land at Teneriffe without ascending the Peak.
+
+"Scarcely any naturalist," says Humboldt in a letter to La Metterie,
+"who, like myself, has passed through to the Indies, has had time to
+do more than go to the foot of this colossal volcano, and admire the
+delightful gardens of Orotava. Fortunately for me our frigate, the
+_Pizarro_, stopped for six days. I examined in detail the layers of
+which the peak of Teyde is composed. We slept in the moonlight at a
+height of 1200 fathoms. At two o'clock in the morning we started for
+the summit, where we arrived at eight o'clock, in spite of the violent
+wind, the great heat of the ground, which burnt our boots, and the
+intense cold of the atmosphere. I will tell you nothing about the
+magnificent view, which included the volcanic islands of Lancerote,
+Canaria, and Gomera, at our feet; the desert, twenty leagues square,
+strewn with pumice-stone and lava, and without insects or birds,
+separating us from thickets of laurel-trees and heaths; or of the
+vineyards studded with palms, banana, and dragon-trees, the roots of
+which are washed by the waves. We went into the very crater itself. It
+is not more than forty or sixty feet deep. The summit is 1904 fathoms
+above the sea-level, as estimated by Borda in a very careful geometric
+measurement.... The crater of the Peak--that is to say, of the
+summit--has been inactive for several centuries, lava flowing from the
+sides only. The crater, however, provides an enormous quantity of
+sulphur and sulphate of iron."
+
+In July, Humboldt and Bonpland arrived at Cumana, in that part of
+America known as Terra Firma. Here they spent some weeks in examining
+the traces left by the great earthquake of 1797. They then determined
+the position of Cumana, which was placed a degree and a half too far
+north on all the maps--an error due to the fact of the current bearing
+to the north near La Trinidad, having deceived all travellers. In
+December, 1799, Humboldt wrote from Caracas to the astronomer
+Lalande:--
+
+"I have just completed an intensely interesting journey in the
+interior of Paria, in the Cordillera of Cocolar, Tumeri, and Guiri. I
+had two or three mules loaded with instruments, dried plants, &c. We
+penetrated to the Capuchin mission, which had never been visited by
+any naturalist. We discovered a great number of new plants, chiefly
+varieties of palms; and we are about to start for the Orinoco, and
+propose pushing on from it perhaps to San Carlos on the Rio Negro,
+beyond the equator. We have dried more than 1600 plants, and described
+more than 500 birds, picked up numberless shells and insects, and I
+have made some fifty drawings. I think that is pretty well in four
+months, considering the broiling heat of this zone."
+
+During this first trip Humboldt visited the Chayma and Guarauno
+Missions. He also climbed to the summit of the Tumiriquiri, and went
+down into the Guacharo cavern, the entrance to which, framed as it is
+with the most luxuriant vegetation, is truly magnificent. From it
+issues a considerable river, and its dim recesses echo to the gloomy
+notes of birds. It is the Acheron of the Chayma Indians, for,
+according to their mythology and that of the natives of Orinoco, the
+souls of the dead go to this cavern. To go down into the Guacharo
+signifies in their language to die.
+
+The Indians go into the Guacharo cavern once a year, in the middle of
+summer, and destroy the greater number of the nests in it with long
+poles. At this time many thousands of birds die a violent death, and
+the old inhabitants of the cave hover above the heads of the Indians
+with piercing cries, as if they would defend their broods.
+
+The young birds which fall to the ground are opened on the spot. Their
+peritoneum is covered with a thick layer of fat, extending from the
+abdomen to the anus, and forming a kind of cushion between the legs.
+At the time called at Caripe the oil harvest, the Indians build
+themselves huts of palm leaves outside the cavern, and then light
+fires of brushwood, over which they hang clay pots filled with the fat
+of the young birds recently killed. This fat, known under the name of
+the Guacharo oil or butter, is half-liquid, transparent, without smell,
+and so pure that it can be kept a year without turning rancid.
+
+Humboldt continues: "We passed fifteen days in the Caripe valley,
+situated at a height of 952 Castilian varas above the sea-level, and
+inhabited by naked Indians. We saw some black monkeys with red beards.
+We had the satisfaction of being treated with the greatest kindness by
+the Capuchin monks and the missionaries living amongst these
+semi-barbarous people."
+
+[Illustration: Itinerary of Humboldt's route in equinoctial America.]
+
+From the Caripe valley the two travellers went back to Cumana by way
+of the Santa Maria Mountains and the Catuaro missions, and on the 21st
+November they arrived--having come by sea--at Caracas, a town situated
+in the midst of a valley rich in cocoa, cotton, and coffee, yet with a
+European climate.
+
+Humboldt turned his stay at Caracas to account by studying the light
+of the stars of the southern hemisphere, for he had noticed that
+several, notably the Altar, the Feet of the Centaur, and others,
+seemed to have changed since the time of La Caille.
+
+At the same time he put his collections in order, despatching part of
+them to Europe, and most thoroughly examined some rocks, with a view
+to ascertaining of what materials the earth's crust was here composed.
+
+After having explored the neighbourhood of Caracas, and ascended the
+Silla, which, although close to the town, had never been scaled by any
+native, Humboldt and Bonpland went to Valencia, along the shores of a
+lake called Tacarigua by the Indians, and exceeding in size that of
+Neufchatel in Switzerland. Nothing could give any idea of the richness
+and variety of the vegetation. But the interest of the lake consists
+not only in its picturesque and romantic beauty; the gradual decrease
+in the volume of its waters attracted the attention of Humboldt, who
+attributed it to the reckless cutting down of the forests in its
+neighbourhood, resulting in the exhaustion of its sources.
+
+Near this lake Humboldt received proof of the truth of the accounts he
+had heard of an extraordinary tree, the palo de la vaca, or cow-tree,
+which yields a balsamic and very nutritive milk, drawn off from
+incisions made in the bark.
+
+The most arduous part of the trip began at Porto Caballo, at the
+entrance to the llanos, or perfectly flat plains stretching between
+the hills of the coast and the Orinoco valley.
+
+"I am not sure," says Humboldt, "that the first sight of the llanos is
+not as surprising as that of the Andes."
+
+Nothing in fact could be more striking than this sea of grass, from
+which whirls of dust rise up continually, although not a breath of
+wind is felt at Calabozo, in the centre of this vast plain. Humboldt
+first tested the power of the gymnotus, or electric eel, large numbers
+of which are met with in all the tributaries of the Orinoco. The
+Indians, who were afraid of exposing themselves to the electric
+discharge of these singular creatures, proposed sending some horses
+into the marsh containing them.
+
+"The extraordinary noise made by the shoes of the horses," says
+Humboldt, "made the eels come out of the ooze and prepare for battle.
+The yellowish livid gymnoti, resembling serpents, swam on the top of
+the water, and squeezed themselves under the bodies of the quadrupeds
+which had disturbed them. The struggle which ensued between animals so
+differently constituted presented a very striking spectacle. The
+Indians, armed with harpoons and long canes, surrounded the pond on
+every side, and even climbed into the trees, the branches of which
+stretched horizontally over the water. Their wild cries, as they
+brandished their long sticks, prevented the horses from running away
+and getting back to the shores of the pond; whilst the eels, driven
+mad by the noise, defended themselves by repeated discharges from
+their electric batteries. For a long time they appeared victorious,
+and some horses succumbed to the violence of the repeated shocks which
+they received upon their vital organs from every side. They were
+stunned, and sank beneath the water.
+
+"Others, panting for breath, with manes erect, and wild eyes full of
+the keenest suffering, tried to fly from the scene, but the merciless
+Indians drove them back into the water. A very few, who succeeded in
+eluding the vigilance of the guards, regained the bank, stumbling at
+every step, and lay down upon the sand, exhausted with fatigue, every
+limb paralyzed from the electric shocks received from the eels.
+
+"I never remember receiving a more terrible shock from a Leyden jar
+than I did from a gymnotus on which I accidentally trod just after it
+came out of the water."
+
+The astronomic position of Calabozo having been determined, Humboldt
+and Bonpland resumed their journey to the Orinoco. The Uriticu, with
+its numerous and ferocious crocodiles, and the Apure, one of the
+tributaries of the Orinoco, the banks of which are covered with a
+luxuriant vegetation such as is only met with in the tropics, were
+successively crossed or descended.
+
+The latter stream is flanked on either side by thick hedges, with
+openings here and there, through which boars, tigers, and other wild
+animals, made their way to quench their thirst. When the shades of
+night shut in the forest, so silent by day, it resounds with the cries
+of birds and the howling or roaring of beasts of prey, vying with each
+other as to which shall make the most noise.
+
+While the Uriticu is inhabited by fierce crocodiles, the Apure is the
+home of a small fish called the "carabito," which attacks bathers with
+great fury, often biting out large pieces of flesh. It is only four or
+five inches long, but more formidable than the largest crocodile, and
+the waters it frequents are carefully avoided by the Indians, in spite
+of their fondness for bathing, and the relief it affords them,
+persecuted as they are by ants and mosquitoes.
+
+Our travellers went down the Orinoco as far as the Temi, which is
+connected by a short portage with the Cano-Pimichino, a tributary of
+the Rio Negro.
+
+The banks of the Temi, and the adjacent forests, are often inundated,
+and then the Indians make waterways, two or three feet wide, between
+the trees. Nothing could be more quaint or imposing than floating
+amongst the gigantic growths, beneath their green foliage. Sometimes,
+three or four hundred leagues inland, the traveller comes upon a troop
+of fresh-water dolphins, spouting up water and compressed air in the
+manner which has gained for them the name of blowers.
+
+[Illustration: Gigantic vegetation on the banks of the Temi.]
+
+It took four days to transport the canoes from the Tenir to the
+Cano-Pimichino, as a path had to be cleared with axes.
+
+The Pimichino flows into the Rio-Negro, which is in its turn a
+tributary of the Amazon.
+
+Humboldt and Bonpland went down the Rio-Negro as far as San Carlos,
+and then up the Casiquiaro, an important branch of the Orinoco, which
+connects it with the Rio-Negro. The shores of the Casiquiaro are
+inhabited by the Ydapaminores, who live entirely on smoked ants.
+
+Lastly, the travellers went up the Orinoco nearly to its source, at
+the foot of the Duida volcano, where their further progress was
+stopped by the hostility of the Guaharibos and the Guaica Indians, who
+were skilful marksmen with the bow and arrow. Here was discovered the
+famous El Dorado lake, with its floating islets of talc.
+
+Thus was finally solved the problem of the junction of the Orinoco and
+the Maranon, which takes place on the borders of the Spanish and
+Portuguese territories, two degrees above the equator.
+
+The two travellers then floated with the current down the Orinoco,
+traversing by this means five hundred leagues in twenty-five days,
+after which they halted for three weeks at Angostura, to tide over the
+time of the great heat, when fever is prevalent, regaining Cumana in
+October, 1800.
+
+"My health," says Humboldt, "was proof against the fatigue of a
+journey of more than 1300 leagues, but my poor comrade Bonpland, was,
+immediately on his return, seized with fever and sickness, which
+nearly proved fatal. A constitution of exceptional vigour is necessary
+to enable a traveller to bear the fatigue, privations, and
+interruptions of every kind with which he has to contend in these
+unhealthy districts, with impunity. We were constantly surrounded by
+voracious tigers and crocodiles, stung by venomous mosquitoes and ants,
+with no food for three months but water, bananas, fish, and tapioca,
+now crossing the territory of the earth-eating Otomaques, now
+wandering through the desolate regions below the equator, where not a
+human creature is seen for 130 leagues. Few indeed are those who
+survive such perils and such exertions, fewer still are those who,
+having surmounted them, have sufficient courage and strength to
+encounter them a second time."
+
+We have seen what an important geographical discovery rewarded the
+perseverance of the explorers who had completed the examination of the
+whole of the district north of the Amazon, between Popayan and the
+mountains of French Guiana. The results obtained in other branches of
+science were no less novel and important.
+
+Humboldt had discovered that there exists amongst the Indians of the
+Upper Orinoco and the Rio Negro a race with extremely fair complexions,
+differing entirely from the natives of the coast. He also noticed the
+curious tribe of the Otomaques.
+
+"These people," he says "who disfigure their bodies with hideous
+paintings, eat nothing but loam for some three months, when the height
+of the Orinoco cuts them off from the turtles which form their
+ordinary food. Some monks say they mix earth with the fat of
+crocodiles' tails, but this is a very false assertion. We saw
+provisions made of unadulterated earth, prepared only by slow roasting
+and moistening with water."
+
+Amongst the most curious of the discoveries made by Humboldt, we must
+mention that of the "curare," the virulent poison which he saw
+manufactured by the Catarapeni and Maquiritare Indians, and a specimen
+of which he sent to the Institute with the "dapiche," a variety of
+Indian rubber hitherto unknown, being the gum which exudes
+spontaneously from the roots of the trees known as "jacio" and
+"cucurma," and dries underground.
+
+Humboldt concluded his first journey by the exploration of the
+southern districts of San Domingo and Jamaica, and by a short stay in
+Cuba, where he and his companions made several experiments with a view
+to facilitating the making of sugar, surveyed the coast of the island,
+and took some astronomical observations.
+
+These occupations were interrupted by the news of the starting of
+Captain Baudin, who, it was said, was to double Cape Horn and examine
+the coasts of Chili and Peru. Humboldt, who had promised to join the
+expedition, at once left Cuba, and crossed South America, arriving on
+the coast of Peru in time, as he thought, to receive the French
+navigator. Although Humboldt had throughout his long journey worked
+with a view to timing his arrival in the Peruvian capital to meet
+Baudin, it was only when he reached Quito that he ascertained that the
+new expedition was making for the Pacific by way of the Cape of Good
+Hope.
+
+In May, 1801, Humboldt, still accompanied by the faithful Bonpland,
+embarked at Cartagena, whence he proposed going first to Santa Fe de
+Bogota, and then to the lofty plains of Quito. To avoid the great heat
+the travellers spent some time at the pretty village of Turbaco,
+situated on the heights overlooking the coast, where they made the
+necessary preparations for their journey. In one of their excursions
+in the neighbourhood they visited a very strange region, of which
+their Indian guides had often spoken under the name of _Volcanitos_.
+
+This is a volcanic district, set in a forest of palms, and of the tree
+called "tola," about two miles to the east of Turbaco. According to a
+legend, the country was at one time one vast collection of burning
+mountains, but the fire was quenched by a saint, who merely poured a
+few drops of holy water upon it.
+
+In the centre of an extensive plain Humboldt came upon some twenty
+cones of greyish clay, about twenty-five feet high, the mouths of
+which were full of water. As the travellers approached a hollow sound
+was heard, succeeded in a few minutes by the escape of a great
+quantity of gas. According to the Indians these phenomena had recurred
+for many years.
+
+Humboldt noticed that the gas which issues from these small volcanoes
+was a far purer azote than could then be obtained by chemical
+laboratories.
+
+Santa Fe is situated in a valley 8600 feet above the sea-level. Shut
+in on every side by lofty mountains, this valley appears to have been
+formerly a large lake. The Rio-Bogota which receives all the waters of
+the valley, has forced a passage for itself near the Tequendama farm,
+on the south-west of Santa-Fe, beyond which it leaves the plain by a
+narrow channel and flows into the Magdalena basin. As a natural
+consequence, were this passage blocked, the whole plain of Bogota
+would be inundated and the ancient lake restored. There exists amongst
+the Indians a legend similar to that connected with Roland's Pass in
+the Pyrenees, telling how one of their heroes split open the rocks and
+drained dry the valley of Bogota, after which, content with his
+exploit, he retired to the sacred town of Eraca, where he did penance
+for 2000 years, inflicting upon himself the greatest torture.
+
+The cataract of Tequendama, although not the largest in the world, yet
+affords a very beautiful sight. When swollen by the addition of all
+the waters of the valley, the river, a little above the Falls, is 175
+feet wide, but on entering the defile which appears to have been made
+by an earthquake, it is not more than forty feet in breadth. The abyss
+into which it flings itself, is no less than 600 feet deep. Above this
+vast precipice constantly rises a dense cloud of foam, which, falling
+again almost immediately, is said to contribute greatly to the
+fertility of the valley.
+
+Nothing could be more striking than the contrast between the valley of
+the Rio Bogota and that of the Magdalena: the one with the climate and
+productions of Europe, the corn, the oaks and other trees of our
+native land; the other with palms, sugar-canes, and all the growths of
+the tropics.
+
+One of the most interesting of the natural curiosities met with by our
+travellers on the trip, was the bridge of Jcononzo, which they crossed
+in September, 1801. At the bottom of one of the contracted ravines,
+known as "canyons," peculiar to the Andes, a little stream, the Rio
+Suma Paz, has forced for itself a narrow channel. To cross this river
+would be impossible, had not nature herself provided two bridges, one
+above the other, which are justly considered marvels of the country.
+
+Three blocks of rock detached from one of the mountains by the
+earthquake which produced this mighty fissure, have so fallen as to
+balance each other and form a natural arch, to which access is
+obtained by a path along the precipice. In the centre of this bridge
+there is an opening through which the traveller may gaze down into the
+infinite depth of the abyss, at the bottom of which rolls the torrent,
+its terrible roar mingled with the incessant screaming of thousands of
+birds. Sixty feet above this bridge is a second, fifty feet long by
+forty wide, and not more than eight feet thick in the middle. To serve
+as a parapet, the natives have made a slender balustrade of reeds
+along the edges of this second bridge, from which the traveller can
+obtain a fine view of the magnificent scene beneath him.
+
+The heavy rain and bad roads made the journey to Quito very exhausting,
+but for all that Humboldt and Bonpland only halted there for an
+absolutely necessary rest, quickly pressing on for the Magdalena
+valley, and the magnificent forests clothing the sides of the Trinidiu
+in the Central Andes.
+
+This mountain is considered one of the most difficult to cross in the
+whole chain. Even when the weather is favourable, twelve days, at
+least, are necessary for traversing the forests, in which not a human
+creature is seen and no food can be obtained. The highest point is
+1200 feet above the sea-level, and the path leading up to it is in
+many parts only one foot wide. The traveller is generally carried,
+bound to a chair in a sitting posture, on the back of a native, as a
+porter carries a trunk.
+
+"We preferred to go on foot," says Humboldt in a letter to his brother,
+"and the weather being very fine we were only seventeen days in these
+solitudes, where not a trace is to be seen of any inhabitant. The
+night is passed in temporary huts made of the leaves of the heliconia,
+brought on purpose. On the western slopes of the Andes marshes have to
+be crossed, into which one sinks up to the knees; and the weather
+having changed when we reached them, it rained in torrents for the
+last few days. Our boots rotted on our feet, and we reached Carthago
+with naked and bleeding feet, but enriched with a fine collection of
+new plants.
+
+"From Carthago we went to Popayan by way of Buga, crossing the fine
+Cauca valley, and skirting along the mountain of Choca, with the
+platina-mines for which it is famous.
+
+"We spent October, 1801, at Popayan, whence we made excursions to the
+basaltic mountains of Julusuito and the craters of the Purace volcano,
+which discharge hydro-sulphuric steam and porphyritic granite with a
+terrible noise....
+
+"The greatest difficulties were met with in going from Popayan to
+Quito. We had to pass the Pasto Paramos, and that in the rainy season,
+which had now set in. A 'paramo' in the Andes is a district some 1700
+or 2000 fathoms high, where vegetation ceases, and the cold is
+piercing.
+
+"We went from Popayan to Almager and thence to Pasto, at the foot of a
+terrible volcano, by way of the fearful precipices forming the ascent
+to the summit of the Cordillera, thus avoiding the heat of the Patia
+valley, where one night will often bring on the fever known as the
+_Calentura de Patia_, lasting three or four months."
+
+The province of Pasto consists entirely of a frozen plateau almost too
+lofty for any vegetation to thrive on it, surrounded by volcanoes and
+sulphur-mines from which spiral columns of smoke are perpetually
+issuing. The inhabitants have no food but batatas, and when they run
+short they are obliged to live upon a little tree called "achupalla,"
+for which they have to contend with the bear of the Andes. After being
+wet through night and day for two months, and being all but drowned in
+a sudden flood, accompanied by an earthquake near the town of Jbarra,
+Humboldt and Bonpland arrived on the 6th January, 1801, at Quito,
+where they were received in cordial and princely style by the Marquis
+of Selva-Alegre.
+
+Quito is a fine town, but the intense cold and the barren mountains
+surrounding it make it a gloomy place to stay in. Since the great
+earthquake of the 4th February, 1797, the temperature has considerably
+decreased, and Bouguer, who registered it at an average of from 15
+degrees to 16 degrees would be surprised to find it varying from 4
+degrees to 10 degrees Reaumur. Cotopaxi and Pinchincha, Antisana and
+Illinaza, the various craters of one subterranean fire, were all
+examined by the travellers, a fortnight being devoted to each.
+
+Humboldt twice reached the edge of the Pinchincha crater, never before
+seen except by Condamine.
+
+"I made my first trip," he says, "accompanied only by an Indian.
+Condamine had approached the crater by the lower part of its edge
+which was covered with snow, and in this first attempt I followed his
+example. But we nearly perished. The Indian sank to the breast in a
+crevasse, and we found to our horror that we were walking on a bridge
+of frozen snow, for a little in advance of us there were some holes
+through which we could see the light. Without knowing it we were in
+fact on the vaults belonging to the crater itself. Startled, but not
+discouraged, I changed my plan. From the outer rim of the crater,
+flung as it were upon the abyss, rise three peaks, three rocks, which
+are not covered with snow, because the steam from the volcano prevents
+the water from freezing. I climbed upon one of these rocks and on the
+top of it found a stone attached on one side only to the rock and
+undermined beneath, so as to protrude like a balcony over the
+precipice. This stone was but about twelve feet long by six broad, and
+is terribly shaken by the frequent earthquakes, of which we counted
+eighteen in less than thirty minutes. To examine the depths of the
+crater thoroughly we lay on our faces, and I do not think imagination
+could conceive anything drearier, more gloomy, or more awful than what
+we saw. The crater consists of a circular hole nearly a league in
+circumference, the jagged edges of which are surrounded by snow. The
+interior is of pitchy blackness, but so vast is the gulf that the
+summits of several mountains situated in it can be made out at a depth
+of some 300 fathoms, so only fancy where their bases must be!
+
+"I have no doubt that the bottom of the crater must be on a level with
+the town of Quito. Condamine found this volcano extinct and covered
+with snow, but we had to take the bad news to the inhabitants of the
+capital, that the neighbouring burning mountain is really active."
+
+Humboldt ascended the volcano of Antisana to a height of 2773 fathoms,
+but could go no further, as the cold was so intense that the blood
+started from the lips, eyes, and gums of the travellers. It was
+impossible to reach the crater of Cotopaxi.
+
+On the 9th June, 1802, Humboldt, accompanied by Bonpland, started from
+Quito to examine Chimborazo and Tungurunga. The peak of the latter
+fell in during the earthquake of 1797, and Humboldt found its height
+to be but 2531 fathoms, whilst in Condamine's time it was 2620 fathoms.
+
+From Quito the travellers went to the Amazon by way of Lactacunga,
+Ambato and Rio-Bamba situated in the province laid waste by the
+earthquake of 1797, when 40,000 inhabitants were swallowed up by water
+and mud. Going down the Andes, Humboldt and his companions had an
+opportunity of admiring the remains of the Yega road, leading from
+Cusco to Assuay, and known as the Inca's road. It was built entirely
+of hewn stones, and was very straight. It might have been taken for
+one of the best Roman roads. In the same neighbourhood are the ruins
+of a palace of the Inca Fupayupangi, described by Condamine in the
+minutes of the Berlin Academy.
+
+After a stay of ten days at Cuenca, Humboldt entered the province of
+Jaen, surveyed the Maranon as far as the Rio Napo, and with the aid of
+the astronomical observations he was able to make, supplemented
+Condamine's map. On the 23rd October, 1802, Humboldt entered Lima,
+where he successfully observed the transit of Mercury.
+
+After spending a month in that capital he started for Guayaquil,
+whence he went by sea to Acapulco in Spanish America.
+
+The vast number of notes collected by Humboldt during the year he
+spent in Mexico, and which led to the publication of his Essay on
+Spanish America, would, after what we have said of his previous
+proceedings, be enough to prove, if proof were needed, what a passion
+he had for knowledge, how indomitable was his energy and how immense
+his power of work.
+
+At one and the same time he was studying the antiquities and the
+history of Mexico, the character, customs, and language of its people,
+and taking observations in natural history, physical geography,
+chemistry, astronomy, and topography.
+
+The Tasco, Moran, and Guanajuato mines, which yield a profit of
+several million piastres per annum, first attracted the attention of
+Humboldt, who had early studied geology. He then examined the Jerullo
+volcano, which, although situated in the centre of an immense plain
+thirty-six leagues from the sea, and more than forty from any volcano,
+discharged earth on the 29th September, 1759, and formed a mountain of
+cinders and clay 1700 feet high.
+
+In Mexico the travellers were able to obtain everything necessary to
+the arrangement of the immense collections they had accumulated, to
+classify and compare the observations each had taken, and to prepare
+their geographical map for publication.
+
+Finally, in January, 1804, they left Acapulco to examine the eastern
+slopes of the Cordilleras, and to take the dimensions of the two lofty
+Puebla volcanoes.
+
+"Popocatepetl," says Desborough Cooley, "is always active, although
+nothing but smoke and ashes have issued from its crater for centuries.
+It is not only 2000 feet higher than the loftiest mountains of Europe,
+but is also the loftiest mountain in Spanish America." In spite of the
+great quantity of snow which had recently fallen, Humboldt
+accomplished the ascent of the Cofre, 1300 feet higher than the peak
+of Teneriffe, obtaining from its summit, an extensive and varied view,
+embracing the Puebla plain and the eastern slopes of the Mexican
+Cordilleras, clothed with thick forests of "liquidambar," tree-ferns
+and sensitive plants. The travellers were able to make out the port of
+Vera Cruz, the castle of San Juan d'Ulloa and the sea-shore.
+
+This mountain owes its name of Cofre to a naked rock of pyramidal form
+which rises like a tower from its summit at a height of 500 feet.
+
+After this last trip Humboldt went down to Vera Cruz, and having
+fortunately escaped the yellow fever then decimating the population,
+he set sail for Cuba, where he had left the greater part of his
+collection, going thence to Philadelphia. There he remained a few
+weeks to make a cursory study of the political constitution of the
+United States, returning to Europe in August, 1804.
+
+The results of Humboldt's travels were such, that he may be justly
+called the discoverer of Equinoctial America, which before his time
+had been explored without becoming really known, while many of its
+innumerable riches were absolutely ignored. It must be fully
+acknowledged that no traveller ever before did so much as Humboldt for
+physical geography and its kindred sciences. He was the very ideal of
+a traveller, and the world is indebted to him for important
+generalizations concerning magnetism and climate; whose results are
+plainly seen in the isothermal lines of modern maps. The writings of
+Humboldt mark an era in the science of geography, and have led to many
+further researches.
+
+
+
+
+END OF THE GREAT NAVIGATORS OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+
+
+
+
+LONDON:
+GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
+ST. JOHN'S SQUARE.
+
+
+
+
+"_Jules Verne, that Prince of Story-tellers_."--TIMES.
+
+
+ BOOKS BY JULES VERNE.
+----------------------------------------------------------------------
+ |Containing 350 to 600 pp.| Containing the whole
+ LARGE CROWN 8vo. |and from 50 to 100 | of the text with some
+ |full-page illustrations. | illustrations.
+---------------------+-------------------------+----------------------
+ | In very | In | In cloth |
+ | handsome | plainer | binding, | Coloured
+ WORKS. | cloth binding| binding, | gilt edges,| Boards.
+ | gilt edges. | plain | smaller |
+ | | edges. | type. |
+---------------------+--------------+----------+------------+---------
+ | s. d. | s. d. | s. d. |
+Twenty Thousand | | | |
+Leagues under the | 10 6 | 5 0 | 3 6 | 2 vols.,
+Sea. Part I. | | | | 1s. each.
+Ditto. Part II. | | | |
+ | | | |
+Hector Servadac | 10 6 | 5 0 | 3 6 |
+ | | | |
+The Fur Country | 10 6 | 5 0 | 3 6 | 2 vols.,
+ | | | | 1s. each.
+ | | | |
+From the Earth to | | | |
+the Moon and a Trip | 10 6 | 5 0 | 2 vols., | 2 vols.,
+round it | | | 2s. each. | 1s. each.
+ | | | |
+Michael Strogoff, the| 10 6 | 5 0 | |
+Courier of the Czar | | | |
+ | | | |
+Dick Sands, the Boy | 10 6 | | |
+Captain | | | |
+ | | | | s. d.
+Five Weeks in a | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0
+Balloon | | | |
+ | | | |
+Adventures of Three | | | |
+Englishmen and Three | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0
+Russians | | | |
+ | | | |
+Around the World in | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0
+Eighty Days | | | |
+ | | | |
+A Floating City | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0
+The Blockade Runners | | | 2 0 | 1 0
+ | | | |
+Dr. Ox's Experiment | | | 2 0 | 1 0
+Master Zacharius | 7 6 | 3 6 | |
+A Drama in the Air | | | 2 0 | 1 0
+A Winter amid the Ice| | | |
+ | | | |
+The Survivors of the | | | 2 0 | 2 vols.,
+"Chancellor" | 7 6 | 3 6 | | 1s. each.
+Martin Paz | | | 2 0 | 1 0
+ | | | |
+THE MYSTERIOUS | 22 6 | 10 6 | 6 0 | 3 0
+ISLAND, 3 vols.:-- | | | |
+Vol. I. Dropped from | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0
+the Clouds | | | |
+Vol. II. Abandoned | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0
+Vol. III. Secret of | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0
+the Island | | | |
+ | | | |
+The Child of the | 7 6 | 3 6 | |
+Cavern | | | |
+ | | | |
+The Begum's Fortune | 7 6 | | |
+ | | | |
+The Tribulations of | 7 6 | | |
+a Chinaman | | | |
+---------------------+--------------+----------+------------+---------
+
+CELEBRATED TRAVELS AND TRAVELLERS. 3 vols. Demy 8vo, 600 pp., upwards
+of 100 full-page illustrations, 12_s_. 6_d_.; gilt edges, 14_s_.
+each:--
+
+(1) THE EXPLORATION OF THE WORLD.
+(2) THE GREAT NAVIGATORS OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+(3) THE EXPLORERS OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. (_In the Press_.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Celebrated Travels and Travellers, by Jules Verne
+
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