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diff --git a/25462.txt b/25462.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a435d87 --- /dev/null +++ b/25462.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3763 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Little Folks' Handy Book, by +Lina Beard and Adelia B. Beard + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Little Folks' Handy Book + +Author: Lina Beard + Adelia B. Beard + +Release Date: May 13, 2008 [EBook #25462] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LITTLE FOLKS' HANDY BOOK *** + + + + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Joseph Cooper, Emmy and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + + +Little Folks' Handy Book + + + + +BOOKS BY LINA BEARD AND ADELIA B. BEARD + + _Illustrated by the Authors_ + + ON THE TRAIL + + THINGS WORTH DOING AND HOW TO DO THEM + + RECREATIONS FOR GIRLS--INDOOR AND OUTDOOR + + WHAT A GIRL CAN MAKE AND DO, AND NEW IDEAS FOR WORK AND PLAY + + THE AMERICAN GIRL'S HANDY BOOK; or, HOW TO AMUSE YOURSELF + AND OTHERS + + LITTLE FOLKS' HANDY BOOK + +CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS + + + + +Little Folks' Handy Book + +By + +LINA BEARD AND ADELIA B. BEARD + +With Many Illustrations + +by the Authors + + Charles Scribner's Sons + NEW YORK CHICAGO BOSTON + + COPYRIGHT, 1910, BY + CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS + +Printed in the United States of America + + + +SPECIAL NOTICE + +All the material in this book, both text and cuts, is original with the +authors and invented by them; and warning is hereby given that the +unauthorized printing of any portion of the text and the reproduction of +any of the illustrations or diagrams are expressly forbidden. + + +[Illustration] + + + + +PREFACE + + +"LET _me_ do it. Let _me_ make it," is the cry when a child sees an +older person putting together the different parts of an interesting +piece of work; and it is this desire to do things himself, this impulse +toward self-expression, that, when properly directed, forms so great a +factor in his all-around development and education. Using the hands and +brain together stimulates interest and quickens observation and +intelligence, and, as the object takes form beneath the little fingers, +the act of making, of creating, brings with it a delight and +satisfaction which the mere possession of the same thing made by another +can not give. "Look! See what _I_ have made," comes with a ring of +triumph as the childish hands gleefully hold up the finished article for +inspection. + +In this book we have endeavored to open a new and large field of simple +handicrafts for little folk, giving them an original line of toys and a +new line of materials with which to make them. We hope in these pages to +bring to children the joy of making creditable and instructive toys of +such ordinary things as empty spools, sticks of kindling wood, wooden +clothespins, natural twigs, old envelopes and newspapers, and in this +way to encourage resourcefulness, originality, inventiveness, and the +power to do with supplies at hand. + +Everything described in the book has been actually made by the authors, +and made by such practical and simple methods that a child's mind can +grasp them, and a child's hands be easily trained to manufacture the +articles. It is, therefore, our hope that the "Little Folks' Handy Book" +will be found useful both in Kindergarten and Primary grades of the +schools and in the home nursery; a helpful friend to teachers and to +mothers. + + LINA BEARD. + ADELIA B. BEARD. + + FLUSHING, N. Y., _February 10, 1910._ + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER PAGE + + I. PAPER BUILDING CARDS 1 + + II. TOYS MADE OF COMMON WOODEN BERRY-BASKETS 5 + + III. STRAW AND PAPER FURNITURE 9 + + IV. A NEWSPAPER BOAT WHICH WILL SAIL ON REAL WATER 15 + + V. PAPER JEWELRY 19 + + VI. WHAT TO MAKE OF EMPTY SPOOLS 28 + + VII. OLD ENVELOPE TOYS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM 47 + + VIII. TOYS OF CLOTHESPINS 55 + + IX. SCRAP-BOOKS 64 + + X. TOYS MADE OF COMMON KINDLING WOOD 70 + + XI. LITTLE TWIG PEOPLE 79 + + XII. VISITING-CARD HOUSES 90 + + XIII. PLAYING INDIANS WITH COSTUMES MADE OF NEWSPAPERS 98 + + XIV. CHRISTMAS-TREE DECORATIONS 106 + + XV. A HOME-MADE SANTA CLAUS 124 + + XVI. NATURE STUDY WITH TISSUE-PAPER 130 + + + + +LITTLE FOLKS' HANDY BOOK + + + + +CHAPTER I + +PAPER BUILDING CARDS + + +MAKE your building cards of ordinary writing-paper. You may have as many +cards as you like, though twelve are all that are used to make the +things shown in our photographs. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1--Cut an oblong out like this.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2--This is the building card.] + +For each card cut an oblong of paper five inches long and two and a half +inches wide. This is a very good size, but you can make them a little +larger or smaller. Always remember, however, to have them just twice as +long as they are wide, and all of one size. When you have cut out the +oblong (Fig. 1) fold it through the middle, bringing the two short edges +evenly together. The dotted line in Fig. 1 shows where it is to be +folded. Now open the oblong half-way and you will have the building card +(Fig. 2). They are very simple and easy to make, aren't they? But +wonderful and delightful things can be built with these pieces of +paper. You can have a whole camp of little tents by standing the cards +with the folded edge up; and to make + + +=A Camp Chair= + +all you need do is to push two of your tents close together, then on top +of their folded edges lay another card with one flat side down to form +the seat and the other side up for the back. + +[Illustration: FIG. 3--You can make a little camp chair.] + +The second illustration (Fig. 3) shows just how to do this. Use the +tents again for + + +=The Pyramid= + +in Fig. 4. Stand three tents in a row close together. On top of these +make a floor by laying two cards across with one side of each card +extending down at the back of the tents. Then build a second story--two +tents this time, with a floor on top. + +[Illustration: FIG. 4--Use the tents to make this pyramid.] + +The third and top story will be one tent, which forms the peak of the +pyramid. Of course you can make your pyramid very much larger by adding +more tents to the first row and then building it up higher. + + +=The Stable= + +is very cunning with its four little stalls. To build it you must stand +the cards on their side edges as in Fig. 2. One side forms the back wall +of the stall, the other the side wall. When you have reached the end of +the row you will find the last stall lacks a side wall, but all you have +to do is to slide another back wall behind the last and there you have +the needed side wall. Put a roof over the stalls just as you made the +floors for your pyramid, and then stand a tent on top for the cupola. +Place a card at each end of the stalls, as shown in the illustration, +and your stable is ready for its tiny horses. + +[Illustration: FIG. 5--A little stable with four little stalls.] + +Build + + +=The Garden Wall= + +(Fig. 6) by standing the cards on their side edges. You can make the +garden any size or shape you like, but always have the gateway just +wide enough to hold the tent roof on top. See how the cards stand with +edges in on either side of the opening. This will support the +tent-shaped roof. Perhaps the children will want a house in the garden. +You can build one if you try. Then see how many more things can be made +of the paper cards, for I have not told you half of them. + +[Illustration: FIG. 6--A garden wall and gateway.] + + + + +CHAPTER II + +TOYS MADE OF COMMON WOODEN BERRY-BASKETS + + +USE a one-quart wooden berry-box for the china closet (Fig. 7). Turn the +empty box facing you, and slide the prongs of a clothespin up through +the open crack at the lower right hand of the box. Allow one prong of +the clothespin to come on the outside and the other prong on the inside +of the thin wooden side of the box; adjust the clothespin well to the +front edge of the box, and it will form the right-hand front leg of the +china closet. Add another leg in like manner on the same side of the box +for the back leg; then slide two more clothespins up on the opposite +side of the box to form the remaining two legs (Fig. 8). + +[Illustration: FIG. 7--The berry-basket china closet.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 8--Slide clothespins on the basket for legs.] + +The prongs of the clothespins do not reach up to the top of the inside +of the box, but leave sufficient space for a shelf. Make the shelf by +laying a clothespin across from side to side, supported by the prongs of +the back legs, and another across, supported by the prongs of the front +legs (Fig. 8). The clothespin used for the front of the shelf will +probably have to be a trifle longer than that for the back, as the box +is wider in front than at the back. Set some toy dishes on the top, the +shelf, and the inside bottom of the china closet, as in Fig. 7. + +With another quart berry-box and four more clothespins make the + + +=Doll's Table= + +Slide the prongs of a clothespin down on either side of the box at the +four corners (Fig. 9), then turn the table right side up, placing it on +its feet. Set the table with toy dishes, and dinner will be ready (Fig. +10). + +[Illustration: FIG. 9--Slide the prongs of the clothespins down on the +sides of the box.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 10--Make the doll's table.] + +The table can be turned into a dressing-case by standing two clothespins +on their heads at each side of the back of the top of the table, and +sliding a piece of stiff paper across from clothespin to clothespin +between the prongs for a mirror (Fig. 11). Of course, the addition of a +fringed white paper, or cloth scarf, over the top of the dressing-case +would enhance its appearance, as would also a table-cloth over the top +of the dinner table, but the covers were purposely omitted in the +photographs that one may see exactly how the articles were made. + +[Illustration: FIG. 11--The table can be turned into a dressing-case.] + +Make a + + +=Dolly's Bassinet= + +(Fig. 12) of a small oblong berry-basket with four clothespin legs +slanting outward at the bottom and the prongs of the legs on each side +brought together at the top (Fig. 13). On the centre of one end of the +basket slide down the prongs of a fifth clothespin to form the upright +for holding drapery (Fig. 13). When adjusted, fold a lady's handkerchief +diagonally through the centre and hang it over the support, as in Fig. +12. The bassinet will then be ready for a folded handkerchief as bedding +and a little baby doll. + +[Illustration: FIG. 12--A perfect little bassinet.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 13--The bassinet without the drapery.] + +A comical little berry-basket + + +="Bow-wow"= + +(Fig. 14) can be made by using a two-quart basket for the body, the +bassinet basket for a head, and clothespins for ears, tail, and legs. +Fasten the legs on the body so that the front legs will slant forward +and the back legs backward, that the dog may appear to be running (Fig. +15); slide a clothespin on the end of the basket for a tail; then fasten +two clothespins slanting backward on the small basket for ears; set the +small basket on the front end of the large one, placing it so that +almost half of it projects over the large basket, and the comical little +dog will be finished. + +[Illustration: FIG. 14--A comical berry-basket "bow-wow".] + +[Illustration: FIG. 15--Put the legs on slantingly.] + +Fig. 16 shows two clothespin horses attached to a + + +=Berry-basket Wagon= + +with clothespin wheels. The driver is a clothespin held up by a +clothespin seat, and the wagon is filled with clothespin people along +each side edge. + +[Illustration: FIG. 16--The berry-basket wagon with clothespin horses.] + + + + +CHAPTER III + +STRAW AND PAPER FURNITURE + + +A HANDFUL of straws, such as are used for lemonade and soda-water, +several large sheets of writing-paper, and some small-sized pins--these +are your materials. A pair of sharp scissors, a ruler marked off into +whole, half, and quarter inches, and a lead pencil--these are your +tools. + +[Illustration: FIG. 17--The old-fashioned bedstead.] + +We will begin with the old-fashioned four-post bedstead with its canopy +and valances (Fig. 17). It is easily put together, but you must be +careful to cut the straws for the posts all exactly the same length, +making them about seven inches long, and to have your measurements for +the other parts quite correct, in order that the bedstead may stand +perfectly upright. Select four straight straws for the posts--sound and +whole. Split straws will not do. + +The mattress and canopy are exactly alike; each has its valance, and +they are just the same size; so directions for one will answer for both. +Cut an oblong of writing-paper eight and a half inches long and six and +a half inches wide. Be sure that the ends and side edges form perfect +right angles; if they do not, the bed will be crooked. The edges of your +sheet of writing-paper are at right angles to one another, and if you +use the top edge of your paper for the top edge of your oblong, and the +side edge of the paper for one side edge of your oblong, the rest will +come out all right. + +[Illustration: FIG. 18--The mattress and canopy.] + +Now draw perfectly straight lines across your oblong from top to bottom, +just one and a half inches from each edge (Fig. 18). Then from side to +side draw two more straight lines; the first one and a half inches below +the top edge and the other one and a half inches above the bottom edge. +This gives the mattress with a border all around. In each corner of the +mattress, a little more than a quarter of an inch from the end and side +lines, draw a small cross as shown in Fig. 18. Be sure these crosses are +placed correctly, and are exactly alike in mattress and canopy. Now cut +out the four squares at the corners of the oblong, as indicated by the +heavy lines in Fig. 18, and insert the point of your scissors in the +centre of each little cross and snip along each line of the cross. Do +not make the slashes too deep. + +Cut the edges of the border, or valance, into small points, as in Fig. +17; then bend the valance down at the sides and ends of the mattress. +The dotted lines in the diagrams show where to bend the paper. Make the +canopy just as you have made the mattress, but cut deeper points on the +edge of the valance. + +Through each of the four straw bedposts run a small pin two and a +quarter inches from the end of the straw (Fig. 19). + +[Illustration: FIG. 19--Slide the paper down to the pin.] + +Push the long ends of the straws up through the slashed crosses in the +corners of the mattress (Fig. 19) until the bottom of the mattress rests +on the pins, then run a pin through each straw just above and close to +the top of the mattress. Between the two pins the paper can slip neither +up nor down. Run another pin in each straw post half an inch from the +top, slide the canopy down upon these, and fasten with more pins, as you +did the mattress. Make the bolster by folding a piece of paper the +proper shape and cutting the end edges in points for trimming. + +Now you not only know how to make the bedstead, but + + +=The Little Table= + +as well, for if you will look at Fig. 20 you will see that it is put +together in the same manner as the bedstead. + +[Illustration: FIG. 20--The little table.] + +Make the legs of the table three inches long. Cut the top of the table +four inches long and three and a half inches wide, and the shelf three +and a half inches long and three inches wide. Measure one-quarter of an +inch from each edge of the table top and draw straight lines as in Fig. +21. This will give you a narrow border all around the top. + +Make and cut the little crosses in the corners of top and shelf, then +cut out the squares at the corners of the top and bend down the edges. +The shelf of the table should be one inch above the bottom ends of the +straws, and the top of the table one-quarter of an inch below the top +ends of the straws. + +[Illustration: FIG. 21--A narrow border all around the table top.] + +By making the straw legs of the table twice as long, and the top and +shelves narrower, you can have another useful article of furniture, for +by adding two shelves of paper on the straws, and fastening them in the +same way, this can be used as a cupboard or shelves on which to place +the tiny doll dishes or clothes. The table can also be made into a +little dressing-table, by simply using for the back legs straws twice as +long as the front legs and then slipping a square piece of paper on the +straws that extend above the table, to serve as a mirror. Just as the +paper is slipped on the straws for the back of the chair (Fig. 22), +silver paper is pasted on this to make it look like glass. + +With these few patterns you can make any number of useful articles to +furnish Miss Dolly's house. You can make small beds and large beds, +small tables and large tables, and many sizes of chairs. + +You can make + + +=The Chair= + +by merely looking at Fig. 22 and the diagrams, Figs. 23 and 24. No pins +were used in this, but if you want the chair to last it is best to +fasten it securely like the rest of the furniture. The straws for the +back should be six inches long and for the front legs two and a quarter +inches long. The shelf under the chair is the size of the seat. + +[Illustration: FIG. 22--The high-backed chair.] + +This furniture will be especially useful in playing with paper dolls, +and by using different colors, in colored papers, you can have a blue +room, a pink room, and a green room. + +[Illustration: FIG. 23--Push the straw through the back of the chair.] + +You can make tissue-paper sheets and spread for the bed and +pillow-slips, too, if you like. Thus dolly can be tucked away snugly for +the night. + +The ingenuity exercised in the construction of these simple articles +will encourage the development of deftness and skill in the little +fingers, which are ever ready to imitate anything that teacher can make. + +[Illustration: FIG. 24--Cut the back and seat like these.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +A NEWSPAPER BOAT WHICH WILL SAIL ON REAL WATER + + +[Illustration: FIG. 25--The newspaper boat made water-proof and sailing +on real water.] + +YOU can fold a thirteen-and-a-half-inch square of newspaper into a fine +boat measuring thirteen inches from stem to stern. It will be a good, +stanch craft like Fig. 25, to float and sail out in the open on pond, +lake, or river, or at home in basin or bath tub. + +[Illustration: FIG. 26--Square of newspaper for making boat.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 27--Paper folded at centre.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 28--Paper with sides bent down, making four layers.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 29--Paper ready to turn back lower corners.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 30--Ready for folding back the upper corners.] + +Cut your square of paper even and straight. Place it out flat on top of +a bare table and fold at the centre along the dotted line (Fig. 26), +which will make Fig. 27. Bend each side of this down outwardly along its +centre at the dotted line and bring the edges a quarter of an inch lower +than the bottom fold A; then your paper will be four layers like Fig. +28. Turn up the lower edge B of Fig. 28, making Fig. 29. Fold back the +three lower layers of the corners at the dotted lines (Fig. 29) and you +will have Fig. 30. Bend back the upper corners at the dotted lines to +make Fig. 31. Open Fig. 31 at the top and it will be your boat. Turn the +boat upside down and slide one loose edge on the bottom under the other +loose edge; then pinch each bottom point and bend it down toward the +centre of the boat, creasing it flat (Fig. 32). Turn the boat right side +up again, set it on the table, bend the two sides well up and crease +them along the bottom until the boat resembles Fig. 33. + +[Illustration: FIG. 31--Square folded into boat.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 32--Fold points on bottom of boat inward toward +centre--this way.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 33--Newspaper boat without sail.] + +To render the craft water-proof melt a piece of wax candle, turn the +boat upside down again and give the bottom a coat of the melted white +wax, extending the coat half way or more up the sides. Use a teaspoon +for pouring the wax over the boat; the hot wax soon hardens and in a +few moments you may launch the little craft on the water. + +If you want to make a + + +=Sailing Vessel= + +of your boat, roll up a one-inch-wide strip of newspaper into an +old-fashioned paper lighter, which is merely rolling the strip spirally +into a round stick; this is the mast. Cut a paper sail, not too large, +puncture holes in it and slide the sail on the mast; add a small paper +pennant on the extreme top; then insert the base of the mast into a +common wooden spool and glue the spool tight to the bottom of the boat +at the centre of the bow. + +With thread and needle take a stitch or two in the lower corner of the +sail and attach it with a short length of the thread to the stern; +fasten securely. Also fasten the pennant to the mast, so that it cannot +turn, for in this vessel both sail and pennant must be stationary and +not swing to either side. Be careful not to have the sail too heavy. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +PAPER JEWELRY + + +ORDINARY brown wrapping paper is the best to use for this paper jewelry. +Indeed the pale, creamy yellow of some wrapping paper is much like ivory +in color, and the chains and ornaments made of it are really charming. + + +=The Necklace= + +See how simply the necklace is made without glue or paste. It is a +system of double rings that shift and slide in one's hands like the +links of a metal chain. When the principle is understood it is all very +easy. + +The rings may be cut out free-hand by folding the paper as in Fig. 34. +Cut an oblong about six inches long and three inches wide and fold it +crosswise through the middle, then bring the two side edges together and +fold it again lengthwise. Start at the top where the paper is folded and +cut out the ring as in Fig. 34. You will notice in the drawing that the +circle at the top is slightly elongated; this is necessary in fitting +the rings together. The ring when opened will look like Fig. 35. Cut out +six rings the size and shape of Fig. 35, then make two smaller ones, +like A (Fig. 36), and eight still smaller ones, like B (Fig. 36). Now +cut a single ring perfectly round, a trifle larger than Fig. 34, a +double ring like C (Fig. 37), and a pearl-shaped pendant like Fig. 38. +Open Fig. 38 and cut the three-cornered catch in one half and the slit +in the other half, as shown in Fig. 39. Cut the catch first, then fold +the pendant again, as in Fig. 38, and punch small holes with a pin at +the base of the catch through the other half, to mark the place for the +slit. The slit must not be as long as the base of the catch, else the +catch will not hold. + +[Illustration: The little queen. Adorned with paper jewelry.] + +Put the necklace together by slipping the half of one ring over both +halves of another, as in Fig. 40. Commence with the single ring. Slip +half of a large double ring through the single ring, bring the double +ring together and slip another large ring through that, then add another +large ring and you will have a chain of three large rings with the +single ring at the end. + +[Illustration: FIG. 34--Fold and cut like this.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 35--When the ring is opened.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 36--Make smaller rings like these.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 37--Fasten the pendant on the ring.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 38--The pendant.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 39--The pendant open.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 40--Slip the half of one ring over both halves of +another.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 41--Cut a clasp like this.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 42--Fasten the clasp in this way.] + +To the end double ring attach a ring, like A (Fig. 36); to A add a chain +of four rings like B (Fig. 36). This gives you just half of the +necklace, for the single ring is to be the middle one. Make the other +half in the same way, starting on the opposite side of the single ring +and slipping ring into ring as you did before. Attach the ring pendant, +C (Fig. 37), to the single ring between the two side rings, then add the +pendant. Fasten the two halves of the pendant together by folding the +two points of the catch inward, slipping the catch through the slit and +then spreading the points out again flat. This makes a very secure +fastening and, unless the neck of the catch is too slender, it will +neither break nor pull apart. + +[Illustration: FIG. 43--The finished jewelry.] + +Fig. 41 is the clasp for the necklace. Cut it out like the pattern and +make it about three inches long. Slip one end of the clasp through the +last ring on one end of the necklace, the other end of the clasp through +the last ring on the other end of the necklace, then bring the clasp +together and slip the catch through the slit, as in Fig. 42. The +photograph (Fig. 43) shows how pretty the necklace is when finished. + + +=The Coronet= + +The coronet shown in the illustration of the "Little queen" is cut in +one piece (Fig. 44). At the widest part, from top to bottom, it is three +inches wide, and the ends may be lengthened or shortened to fit any +head. The ends must meet and fasten at the back. + +Little rings, one inch in diameter, cut like Fig. 45, ornament the +coronet, as shown in Fig. 44. They are fastened by the catch at the top +through slits cut in the coronet. Make three slits, one below the other, +a little over one inch apart, down the middle of the coronet, and on +either side of these make six more slits in the position shown on the +right half of Fig. 44. This gives fifteen slits, for which you must have +fifteen rings. These dangling little rings that shake and twinkle with +every movement are fascinating little ornaments, and are far prettier +than more elaborate designs. + + +=Ear-rings= + +Quite oriental-looking ear-rings are made like Fig. 46. Cut first two +single elongated hoops like Fig. 47, making them almost three inches +long and one and three-quarter inches from side to side. These long +hoops are to slip over the ears to hold the ear-rings on. Cut two hoops, +like D (Fig. 46), and two pendants, like E (Fig. 46). Fasten the hoop D +upon the hoop (Fig. 46), and the pendant E upon the hoop D, clasping the +pendant by its catch as you did the pendant of the necklace. The +children need not follow exactly the shapes of the "danglers" and +pendants shown here--let them exercise their own taste in these. + +[Illustration: FIG. 44--The coronet is cut in one piece.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 45--Little rings ornament the coronet.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 46--Oriental-looking ear-rings.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 47--Cut two hoops like this.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 48--The bangle bracelet.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 49--Cut a strip for the bangle bracelet.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 50--Cut six round charms.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 51--A link bracelet.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 52--Slip one link through another.] + + +=The Bangle Bracelet= + +The bangle bracelet (Fig. 48) is made as in Fig. 49. Cut a strip of +paper half an inch wide and about eight inches long; make a catch at +one end and a slit in the other end, then a little below the middle cut +six slits half an inch apart, as in Fig. 49. + +[Illustration: Playing lady. The lorgnette.] + +Cut six round charms, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, with a +catch at the top like Fig. 50, and fasten the charms on the bracelet. +Fig. 49 gives the inside of the bracelet with three charms attached. +This bracelet is large for a small child, but can be shortened at the +end to fit any little arm. + + +=A Link Bracelet= + +Fig. 51 is a link bracelet. Make this by folding a strip of paper eight +inches long crosswise through the middle. Bring the folded end half way +down and fold, turn back the other end and fold like a fan. This +divides the paper into six equal parts. Now cut out the outer edge of +all the links at once. Free the two end links and cut out the centres of +the others, then cut the centres of the two links, as shown in Fig. 51, +making the catch and slit like the pattern. + +[Illustration: FIG. 53--Make the lorgnette case of a strip of paper.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 54.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 55--The glasses swing loosely.] + +The links of the long chain shown in the photograph of "The queen and +her captive," are cut exactly like the bangle bracelet (Fig. 49). The +slits and charms are, of course, omitted. Fig. 52 shows how the chain is +put together by slipping one link through another and fastening it with +its catch. You can make the chain any length. It is so strong that only +rough handling will pull it apart. + + +=The Lorgnette= + +Now comes the lorgnette, which works beautifully made of rather stiff +paper. Make the case of a strip of paper three inches wide and eight +inches long. Fold the paper lengthwise through the middle and cut it, +rounding at the top like Fig. 53. In one side cut a small round hole at +the top, rather near the edge of the case, F (Fig. 53), and fold back +the lower corners according to the dotted lines. Cut out the eyeglasses +like Fig. 54. Curl the edges of the ball G together and slide the ball +through the hole F in the case, as in Fig. 55. + +[Illustration: The queen and her captive.] + +The glasses swing quite loosely by this hinge, and will slide easily in +and out of the case. When tucked away inside the case a little flirt of +the hand, a turn of the wrist, will throw them out and they can be +lifted to a piquant little nose in the most approved and fine-ladylike +fashion. + +The lorgnette in use is shown in the photograph, "Playing lady." "The +little queen" displays jewelry, and "The queen and her captive" show the +long chain. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +WHAT TO MAKE OF EMPTY SPOOLS + + +GATHER up all the spools you can find, big, little, thick, and thin; no +matter how many, you can use them all. There is no end of fun to be had +with these always-on-hand, easily found toys; they may be made into +almost everything. + + +=Spool Houses= + +are very simply constructed. Begin building by standing ten spools in a +straight row for the front of the house. Make one side with seven spools +placed at right angles with the front. This gives you one corner of the +house. Build the back parallel to the front by standing nine spools at +right angles with the side. You will then have two corners of the house +and three sides. Add a row of six spools along the empty space between +the front and back of the house for the fourth side, as in Fig. 56. +Remove the third and fourth spools from the left-hand corner of the +front of the house to form the doorway, and examine the foundation--see +that it is even and straight before erecting the walls; then continue +the building, placing a spool on top of each foundation spool (Fig. 57). +Build on another layer of spools, except over the second and third +spools at the right hand of the doorway opening (Fig. 58). Add another +row of spools (Fig. 59), and another (Fig. 60). Lay a piece of +pasteboard box over the top of the walls (Fig. 61), and make the roof of +a piece of almost any kind of paper by bending and creasing the paper +down along the lengthwise centre and up along the lengthwise edges. +Place the roof on top of the pasteboard ceiling (Fig. 62). Do not have +the roof project over the end of the house where you are to build the +chimney, for the chimney must be quite close to the house. Select large +spools for the chimney and build it by standing one spool on top of +another until the chimney extends above the roof. You can top the +chimney by laying a piece of cardboard over the last spool and placing +two small spools on it side by side. Enclose the yard with a spool +fence; standing the spools a short distance from each other, as in the +photograph. Use spools of larger size for the gateway, topping them with +two smaller ones (Fig. 62). + +[Illustration: FIG. 56--First row of spools.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 57--Second row of spools.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 58--Third row of spools.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 59--Fourth row of spools.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 60--Fifth row of spools.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 61--A piece of pasteboard on top.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 62--Place the roof on top.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 63--Trees and flowers made of paper and spools.] + +Make the yard into a cheerful + + +=Sunshiny Garden= + +(Fig. 63), with flowers and trees of paper and tubs and flower-pots of +spools, where the clothespin people may go for recreation. + +The trees are easy to make and are very effective; they are simply +fringed strips of paper rolled like a paper lighter with the large ends +stuck into spools. Cut a strip of green tissue-paper fifteen inches long +and five wide; then cut one-third of the strip narrow, about one inch +wide, and fringe the remaining two thirds (Fig. 64). With the thumb and +first finger of your right hand begin to roll the corner as shown at A +(Fig. 64). Continue rolling, and the fringe, which forms the foliage, +will stand out on the outside of the rolled part or trunk of the tree. +When you reach the solid, narrow part of the paper strip it will roll +into a smooth, round stick, forming the lower part of the tree trunk. +Paste the last wrapped corner of the paper roll in place and clip the +tree trunk off even across the bottom edge; then press it into a hole in +the centre of an empty spool of ordinary size, and there's your tree! +You can vary the foliage by crimping the fringe with knife or scissors +before the strip is rolled into a tree and by having the fringe of some +much longer than that of others. If you use different tones, tints, and +shades of green, running from very light to dark, and make a lot of them +varying in height, the trees will look very pretty and they can form a +jungle where toy wild animals can live; or a number of the trees might +form a playground or a grove where dolls may go for a picnic. + +[Illustration: FIG. 64--This is the way to make a tree.] + +In the photograph of the group of trees you will see a number of pots of +flowers. The flowers are disks and squares of different bright-colored +tissue-paper, each one with its centre pinched together and twisted into +a stemlike piece, which is pushed down into a buttonhole-twist spool. +Around some of the flowers a smaller square of green may be used for +foliage. + +You could make an extensive flower garden by using a great number of +these short, flat spools and bits of gay tissue-paper, and they can be +arranged and rearranged in many different ways. + +It is possible to make all kinds of toy furniture of spools. If you want + + +=A Bedroom Set,= + +use four spools for the legs of a bedstead, place them in position and +lay a piece of stiff white paper, bent up at one end, on top of the +spools. The bed will then be ready for the doll (Fig. 65). + +[Illustration: FIG. 65--A little bedstead.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 66--A table can be made in a moment's time.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 67--The lamp.] + +A little table can be made in a moment's time. All that is necessary is +to choose a large spool and place a round piece of paper on the top +(Fig. 66). Make the bureau of six spools close together in two rows of +three spools each, and cut the top of a piece of paper with a high +extension in the centre, which you must bend upright for a mirror. The +washstand can be four spools quite close together covered with a piece +of paper. A piano is easily made, but you must think it out for +yourself. Use a small spool for the piano-stool. + + +=The Lamp= + +(Fig. 67) is a spool with a little roll of white paper shoved into the +hole and a circular piece of paper crimped around the edge for the +shade. Unless you need the spool to use again in other ways, you might +paste the paper on and make a lamp which will not come apart. + +You can glue the tops on the table and washstand and the mirror on the +bureau also; though this is not necessary, for if you are careful and do +not knock against the furniture it will remain secure. + +Now make the toy + + +=Kitchen= + +with empty spools, and the entire kitchen will not cost one cent of +money. + +[Illustration: FIG. 68--Just like a kitchen.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 69--The stove without the stovepipe.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 70--The finished stove.] + +See how firm and substantial the little kitchen furniture looks in the +photograph with its fine stove, dresser, and wash-tub (Fig. 68). Use +four spools for the feet of the stove. Over these lay a piece of +pasteboard about six inches long and four inches wide, allowing it to +project beyond the front feet to form the apron; then build on the body +of the stove, making it of spools two layers deep, as in Fig. 69. Cut a +piece of pasteboard to fit over the spools for the stove top, and have +it long enough to stand out a short distance at the back; then you can +build on the stovepipe (Fig. 70). + +[Illustration: FIG. 71--The kitchen dresser.] + +Make the dresser of spools and strips cut from pasteboard boxes (Fig. +71). + +[Illustration: FIG. 72--The dining table.] + +For the tubs stand four spools close together, and set a little round +box on top of them. Make the washboard of a piece of paper folded many +times backward and forward, fan fashion. After carefully creasing the +folds, pull the paper out slightly and put it in the tub for the next +washday (Fig. 68). + +After cooking, + + +=A Dining Table= + +will be needed. With eight spools and a piece of pasteboard cut from a +box you can make a fine dining table; the legs of the table are four +columns of two spools each, as you see in Fig. 72, and the chairs are +made of spools with bent pieces of cardboard pasted on top. The +decorations of the table are small spools with bright tissue-paper for +flowers arranged at the four corners of the table, and the plates are +the round pasteboard tops from milk bottles. + +When enough furniture has been manufactured, build + + +=A Wagon= + +[Illustration: FIG. 73--Pattern of little wagon.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 74--The wagon of cardboard with spool for wheels.] + +Cut Fig. 73 from heavy paper or cardboard that will fold without +breaking. Bend all the dotted lines and cut all the heavy lines in the +pattern. Push a burnt match, or a wooden toothpick through one hub, then +through an empty spool and the second hub. The spool forms the wheels. +Screw a small pin cautiously through each of the two projecting ends of +the match, piercing the wood and leaving the head and point of the pin +standing out (Fig. 74). Tie a knot in the end of a string to prevent its +sliding out and thread it through the hole in the dashboard. + +[Illustration: FIG. 75--A Sunday-school room made of spools.] + +By laying narrow strips of paper on a table or on the floor to form a +boundary line, you may make a + + +=Sunday-School Room= + +Leave an open space for the doorway at the opposite end of the room from +the organ. Build up a column of four large spools at each side of the +space and connect them with a strip of paper laid from the top of one +column to the top of the other. + +Build the fine, large pipe-organ close to the edge of the back room. +Stand eight spools in a row tight to each other at equal distances from +each boundary side line. Build the row up three spools high, then +skipping the end spools, build on two layers of six spools each; again +skip the end spools and build on a layer of four spools. Crown the last +layer with two top spools. Across the centre front of the organ stand a +row of spools, two high and three long. Over them lay a piece of paper +bent lengthwise through the centre for the key-board and music-rack. +Bend another piece of paper for the music and stand it on the key-board +against the rack. Make the organ seat of two spools placed side by side +in front of the organ with a strip of paper laid over them. Let the +seats for the doll children be rows of three spools each. Place the +seats one in front of another in parallel lines a short distance apart +and allow a wide, lengthwise central aisle between them. All this is +shown in Fig. 75. + +[Illustration: FIG. 76--The spool trolley car.] + + +=Trolley Car= + +Hunt up an old pasteboard box, for you will need a box lid about fifteen +inches long and eight inches wide as a foundation for the realistic +trolley car (Fig. 76). Use eight spools for the wheels; place two spool +wheels near the front and two near the back on each side. Lay the spools +down flat and rest the edge of the box lid on the body of the spools; +then stand a row of eleven spools on each side of the top of the box +lid. Beginning at one end of the row, build up every other spool into +three-spool columns; the intervening spaces form the open windows of the +car. + +Leave windows on the opposite side of the car in the same way, and place +a row of spools close up against the bottom spools of each side of the +car to form the car seats. Roof the car with a piece of cardboard cut +off square at one end and rounded at the other. On top of each side of +this roof place one row of six buttonhole-twist spools, the spools of +each row separated equal distances (Fig. 76). Stand a spool on the front +of the car platform for the motorman's wheel and you have a car like +that in the photograph. + +When the trolley is taken apart use the spools in building + + +=A Bridge= + +Fig. 77 shows that the piers can be built to a good height and be solid +and substantial. + +Stand three large-sized spools together, forming a triangle, with one +point turned to face the opposite pier. This group of three spools is +the foundation of one of the two columns, which together form one pier +of the bridge. + +About two inches distant and on a line with the triangle of spools stand +a group of three more spools, and build up each group into a column four +spools high. You will need two more columns for the opposite pier of the +bridge; build them as you did the first, and place the second pier +exactly opposite to and as far from the first as you desire the span +should reach--say about fourteen inches. + +Lay a strip of pasteboard six inches wide across from pier to pier, +allowing the ends to rest on the piers, but not extend beyond the +outside end edges of the piers; then if your span is fourteen, inches +long, cut from a pasteboard box two more strips fourteen inches long and +of the same width as the span; score each strip across one end, one inch +from the edge, bend slightly and fit the bent edge of each strip on one +end of the bridge, allowing the other end of the strip to extend away +from the pier and rest on the floor, forming an inclined approach to the +bridge proper as in Fig. 77. + +[Illustration: FIG. 77--The spool bridge.] + +When your pasteboard strips are well settled in place, continue building +up the piers on top of the pasteboard, making each group of three spools +two layers high; then build up one spool two layers high on top of the +four columns. + +[Illustration: FIG. 78--Span the two columns with this.] + +Complete the archway by spanning the two columns of each pier with a +narrow strip of stiff white paper bent up into a point at the centre and +out into a flap at each end (Fig. 78). The flaps rest on top of the +spools. The photograph shows how the entire bridge should look, and in +the photograph you will find a little lady hurrying across the bridge on +her way home, and following in her wake Mr. Clothespin and Mrs. +Clothespin. A paper boat under the bridge would make the scene more +realistic. + +Next build + + +=A Memorial Arch= + +(Fig. 79), something like the one which was erected in New York City. +Commence with two groups of spools a short distance apart; have three in +each group, two in the back and one in the front. Build up columns four +spools high; then lay a strip of pasteboard across from one to the +other. On top of the pasteboard place two more groups of smaller spools +a little nearer together than the first groups. Make these columns two +spools high and crown each with a single spool decorated with a +bright-colored paper flag fastened on a stick pushed down into the +spool. At the base of the arch add three more spools on each side, _o_ +and _o_ (Fig. 79), and the structure will be completed. This is not +exactly like the original, but for a spool arch it is fine, and a spool +procession will feel honored to march through it. + +[Illustration: FIG. 79--A spool memorial arch.] + + +=The Parthenon= + +[Illustration: FIG. 80--The Parthenon made of spools.] + +If you have enough spools, you can make a miniature representation of +one of the most beautiful temples ever built. Begin by standing four +spools in a row for the first end of the building, allowing about the +width of a spool between each two. Place eight in a row for the first +side, four for the other end, and eight for the second side (Fig. 80). +Have the spools all of the same size, that the walls may be alike and +perfectly even, because, as you know, the walls are to be formed of +columns, not as many as in the original, but enough to give an idea of +the Greek temple. Build up the spools three deep into pillars; then lay +a piece of pasteboard on the top of the columns for a ceiling. Bend +another piece of pasteboard lengthwise through the centre for the roof, +and stand it tent-like on top of the ceiling. You can measure the +correct size of the ceiling by laying a piece of pasteboard down flat on +the floor along the eight-columned side of the Parthenon to obtain the +length, and placing it flat on the floor across the four-columned side +to mark the width. Make the roof the same length and a little wider than +the ceiling, to allow for the height of the bend through the centre. + +[Illustration: FIG. 81--You can blow bubbles with a spool.] + +You must imagine a space immediately beneath the roof of the little +Greek temple filled in with the most beautiful statuary, and think of +the spools as white marble columns, and you should see, in fancy, +another row of stately columns inside the ones you have built. Tell all +about the real Parthenon and hunt up a picture of the temple that all +may see just how near you came to making the little model look like the +wonderful Parthenon on the Acropolis, in Athens. + +After admiring the building for a while, pretend that a left-over spool + + +=Is a Venetian Shell= + +shot from a cannon, and toss it gently against the roof at one end of +the temple, then see the columns totter and fall, leaving only a portion +of the Parthenon standing, in the same way that the real marble columns +fell when the original structure was shattered and practically destroyed +by the soldiers. + +You can + + +=Blow Bubbles with a Spool,= + +beautiful bubbles, which float and glide in the air with all the charm +of clay-pipe bubbles. Mix strong soap-suds, dip one end of a large spool +in the water, wet the spool, then blow. If the bubble refuses to appear, +dip the spool in the water again, put your head down to the spool and +blow a few bubbles while the spool is in the water, then quickly raise +it and try again. Nine times out of ten you will succeed, and a bubble +will swell out from the spool as in Fig. 81. These wooden bubble-blowers +last a long time, with no danger of breaking when accidentally dropped +on the floor, and you can always find enough to provide one for each of +the players who meet for a trial of skill in bubble-blowing. + +Now try + + +=Pretty Butterflies= + +which fly from spools. Cut a butterfly (Fig. 82) from bright-colored +tissue paper or thin writing paper, bend at the dotted line and paste on +the large end of a very small cork. Fit the small end of the cork into +the top of the hole of an empty spool (Fig. 83). Then blow through the +spool and see the butterfly ascend rapidly to the ceiling and float down +again. A number of different colored butterflies in the air at one time +fill the room with charming bits of fluttering brightness that will +delight the children. + +[Illustration: FIG. 82--Pattern of butterfly.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 83--It will fly from the spool.] + +Take another empty spool and stick a common wire hairpin partially into +the hole, bend the hairpin slightly down against the edges of the hole, +do the same with three more hairpins, and you will have a spool with a +funnel-like opening of hairpins at the top (Fig. 84). In the funnel +place a small, light-weight ball made of a crushed bit of bright paper +wound around with thread. Raise the spool to your lips and blow gently +(Fig. 85). The ball will rise and fall in mid-air, in the same way that +you have seen one of rubber dance at the top of a small fountain or jet +of water. + +[Illustration: FIG. 84--The ball is placed on top of the spool.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 85--The ball will rise and fall.] + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +OLD ENVELOPE TOYS, AND HOW TO MAKE THEM + + +DON'T throw away your old envelopes; see what amusing toys can be made +of them simply by folding and cutting. No paste or glue is needed, and +any one of the toys given here can be made in five minutes or less. + +[Illustration: FIG. 86--The side view of the frog shows his beautiful +open mouth.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 87--The frog is sprawled out on the table.] + + +=The Frog= + +The frog is one of the simplest and at the same time the funniest of the +collection. Fig. 86 gives a side view in which his beautiful open mouth +can be seen to advantage. Fig. 87 shows him sprawled out on the table. +Fig. 88 gives the pattern of the frog as it appears when drawn on the +envelope. You will notice that the bottom fold of the envelope is used +for the top of the animal. Draw the outlines as in Fig. 88, then cut +along the lines you have drawn. The under part of the body follows the +edge of the lower lap of the envelope from front to hind leg. Now +flatten out the fold at the top and bend the paper under at the +corners, which forms the head and tail. Cut a slit along the folded +edge of the head for the mouth, pull the lower part down and the mouth +will open wide as a frog's mouth naturally does. By working the lower +jaw the frog can be made to snap at imaginary flies. Draw the eyes as +shown in Fig. 87 and bend down the lower part of the body along the +dotted line, shown in Fig. 88, spread out the hind legs, and Master Frog +is finished. + +[Illustration: FIG. 88--The pattern of the frog drawn on an envelope.] + + +=The Little Bed= + +[Illustration: FIG. 89--Use a long envelope for the little bed.] + +For the little bed (Fig. 89) use a long envelope. If the top lap is +open, cut it off. Flatten out the bottom fold as you did for the frog's +back, then bend the ends and sides as in Fig. 90. Bend up the points at +each end for head and footboards, and there is your bed. + + +=The Table= + +Make the table (Fig. 91) of a smaller envelope in the same way, but +leave the points extending out at the ends (Fig. 90) and cut short legs +on the bottom edge (Fig. 91). + +[Illustration: FIG. 90--Fold the envelope this way for the bed.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 91--Make the table of a smaller envelope.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 92--A comfortable little sofa.] + +Plates and other dishes can be made very easily. For circular dishes use +a cent or a ten-cent piece for a pattern. Very effective cups and +goblets can be made from old pieces of tinfoil. The table, however, is +strong enough to hold the little china or tin dishes usually found among +a child's collection of toys. + + +=The Sofa= + +The comfortable little high-backed sofa (Fig. 92) is made of a long +envelope with the top left open. Fold the envelope into the box shape, +as for the bed, with the points turned up. Then fold the tips of the +points inward, as in Fig. 93. Now reverse the box and slit down the two +front edges which gives an opening in front. Bend down this front piece +and cut it off on a line with the two ends. + +[Illustration: FIG. 93--Fold the tips of the points inward.] + + +=The Arm-Chair= + +A deep, low-seated arm-chair can be made of an oblong envelope of +ordinary size by following the directions for the sofa and allowing the +back to curve instead of making it flat, then slitting down the sides +and bending them over to form the arms (Fig. 94). + +[Illustration: FIG. 94--Make the arm-chair of an oblong envelope.] + + +=The Bath Tub.= + +[Illustration: FIG. 95--A little bath tub for imaginary water.] + +A little bath tub, but one that will scarcely hold water, is shown in +Fig. 95. In this the upper lap is left open, the points are bent +under, and the sides left to curve naturally. A baby carriage can also +be made in this way, but for the carriage the points must extend down +and have wheels drawn on them and the tips must be cut off squarely at +the bottom so that the carriage will stand. The lap is the back and the +handle in one (Fig. 96). + +[Illustration: FIG. 96--A doll-baby can ride in this carriage.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 97--The bungalow is made of a long envelope.] + + +=The Bungalow= + +The little bungalow (Fig. 97) is something very different, yet it, too, +is made of an envelope. Though it appears to have many parts it is all +in one piece. The envelope is a long one, such as is used for legal +papers. Fig. 98 gives the pattern. The heavy lines show where to cut and +the dotted lines where to bend. The lap forms the front porch, but the +porch may be left off entirely if the envelope has been slit at the top +in opening it. With a little care, however, many envelopes can be opened +intact. Cut along the heavy lines of the door and windows, then open the +door and the little shutters. Bend back the ends of the house and in the +middle of each end take a little plait from top to bottom. This is to +make the ends narrower and give room for the roof to slant. Bend the +roof back from the eaves along the dotted line. The back of the bungalow +is made like the front, except that it has no door, windows, or porch. + +Children who have a knack at drawing can greatly improve the bungalow by +drawing the slats to the blinds, drawing in the panelling on the front +door, putting on the knob, putting shingles on the roof, etc., etc. + +[Illustration: FIG. 98--Draw the bungalow on the envelope in this way.] + + +=The Cart= + +The little cart (Fig. 99), that will hold quite a heavy doll, and can be +trundled about like one made of wood, is not cut at all. + +[Illustration: FIG. 99--The cart can be trundled about like one made of +wood.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 100--This is the way to put wheels on the cart.] + +Fold an oblong envelope into the box shape (Fig. 93), with points turned +up, but let the points be deeper than for the bed or sofa. This is +because the ends of the envelope are to form the sides of the cart and +must be longer from front to back. Bend the tips of the points in and +crease the folds sharply that they may lie flat against the sides. +Sharpen one end of a small, round stick and push it through the middle +of the folded point on one side, then slide a large, empty spool on the +stick and thrust the point of the stick through the opposite side (Fig. +100). The stick should stand out beyond the cart about half an inch on +each side, and will need no fastening. + +Puncture a hole in one end of the cart, thread a cotton string through +the hole, tie a large knot on the inside end and pull the string through +until the knot presses close against the end of the cart. Let the string +be long enough to reach easily from the floor to the little hand that +will hold the other end. + +Besides all these toys, a baby's cradle that has rockers and will rock, +a cunning little dressing-table with its mirror, boxes of different +shapes and sizes, and various kinds of baskets can be made of the old +envelope. Probably there are other forms it may be made to assume--boats +perhaps, that for a time at least will float on the water, and animals +other than the frog. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +TOYS OF CLOTHESPINS + + +YOU can make cunning, soft, downy hens and roosters simply of raw cotton +and clothespins (Fig. 101). The little creatures may be pure white, dark +colored, or part dark and part light, according to the cotton used. + +[Illustration: FIG. 101--Soft, downy hens and roosters.] + +All of + + +=The Chickens= + +have the same kind of foundation. It is made by sliding the prongs of +two clothespins into each other (Fig. 102). Be sure the clothespins, +when together, stand firm on the prong ends, for these form the legs and +feet of the chickens. + +[Illustration: FIG. 102--Slide the prongs of two clothespins together.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 103--Tie a piece of raw cotton over the head of one +clothespin.] + +With a string tie a piece of raw cotton over the head of one clothespin; +have the string tight, but the cotton cover rather loose. Bring the +cotton partly down the clothespin and tie it again (Fig. 103); then use +your fingers to shape the top cotton into the form of a rooster's head; +gently pull a little of it out to make the beak; tie a string around the +beak where it joins the head, and, with thumb and finger slightly +dampened, twist the end of the beak into a point (Fig. 104). Cotton +which comes in sheets is best for the tail, but the other will do. Lay +the centre of a generous piece of cotton over the head of the second +clothespin, plait the loose ends around the pin, and fasten with a +string, making the edge of the tail in a line with the opening of the +prongs of the pin. Cut the folded end rounded on top, and slit it up a +short distance into wide fringe to form the long feathers of the +rooster's tail (Fig. 104). + +[Illustration: FIG. 104--Pull a little of the cotton out to make a +beak.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 105--A fine little rooster that will move his little +head.] + +With another piece of cotton cover the back and sides of the rooster, as +you would put a saddle on a horse. Bring the edges of the cover together +down the neck and body; when fitted lift the cover, put paste here and +there on its under side near the edge, replace the cover and it will +stick fast; then, with the top of a wire hairpin, push the edges of the +cover, front and back, in between the open prongs of the clothespin. Ink +round bits of paper and paste on the rooster for eyes; make his comb and +wattles of red tissue paper (Fig. 105), and you will have a fine rooster +which can actually + + +=Move His Little Cotton Head= + +up and down, fast or slow, as you wish. To make him do so, hold the +front leg steady with your left hand, while with your right hand you +raise and lower the other leg. Try it, and see how naturally the little +fellow appears to pick up corn in an eager, hungry manner. + +[Illustration: FIG. 106--The little hen.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 107--Making a downy little lamb out of a +clothespin.] + +Fashion the hen in the same way you made the rooster, only have the tail +smaller and without long feathers (Fig. 106). The comb on the hen must +also be smaller than that on the rooster. The general shape of the hen +is the same as that of the rooster. Notice that the direction of outline +along the lower edge of tail and body is one continuous slanting line; +remember this when adjusting the tail that it may not stand out backward +at right angles from the body. + + +=The Little Lambs= + +are made in much the same way as the chickens. Slide two clothespins +together for the foundation (Fig. 102); tie a wad of cotton over the +head of one pin, then pull the head out a trifle on each side for ears, +and tie with a string as you made the rooster's beak. Cover the second +clothespin, making the upper part, which extends down, quite thick; then +lift the upper part, and bring it across to the lamb's neck, for the +little animal must have an almost level back (Fig. 107). Cut a piece of +cotton large enough to cover the entire back and sides of the lamb, lay +it over the lamb like a very large saddle, and fasten it in place with +paste. Use small inked papers for eyes, and tie a gay ribbon around his +neck (Fig. 108). Make a number of little lambs, for they are so +attractive and pretty grouped together (Fig. 109). + +[Illustration: FIG. 108--Tie a gay ribbon around the lamb's neck.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 109--The group of sheep.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 110--Such a funny little long-eared rabbit.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 111--The doggie's head is large.] + + +=The Rabbit= + +(Fig. 110) has the same kind of foundation as the lamb, but stretched +out more, bringing the heads of the pins lower and farther apart. He +needs very long ears, so they must be of separate pieces of sheet cotton +tied to the head. Make his head rather large, and in other respects +manufacture him much the same as the lamb. + + +=The Ears and Tail of a Dog= + +are too large for pulling out and tying from the main piece of cotton, +so cut them separate and tie on at the proper places. Make the doggie's +head large, and the saddle-like cover thick, that the little fellow may +be plump and fat; cut inked paper for eyes and end of nose; with these +exceptions the work is the same as on the lamb (Fig. 107). + +When tying beaks, ears, and tails of the various animals, cut the string +ends close to the knot; then the string will sink into the cotton. + +[Illustration: FIG. 112--Begin to dress the doll in this way.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 113--A strip of cotton for arms.] + +To dress a + + +=Little Girl Doll,= + +cut a strip of cotton extending from below the neck line of the +clothespin to within a short distance of the ends of the prongs; tie the +cotton in gathers around the lower edge of the neck, and again lower +down at the belt line (Fig. 112). Make the arms of a strip of cotton +about four and a quarter inches long and one inch wide; slash in the +middle a short distance, and slip the strip over the head of the pin +(Fig. 113); bend at the shoulders, fold remaining lengths once for arms, +and, with dampened thumb and finger, lightly twist the ends into hands. +The edges of the cotton forming arms and hands will cling together. Tie +a bright ribbon sash around Miss Dolly's waist; then make her hair of a +strip of dark raw cotton; fit and press it on the wooden head, twisting +the ends to resemble long braids; pinch the cotton up on the top of the +head to form a pompadour; when adjusted take the wig off; cover the +wooden head with paste, and replace the wig, setting it well back from +the front of the head. Fasten a ribbon bow back of the pompadour, and +tie the braids together at the nape of the neck with another ribbon; +then ink the features. Insert the ends of the prongs of the clothespin +forming dolly's feet into a small piece of double-faced corrugated straw +board, fasten them in with paste, and the little girl will stand alone +(Fig. 114). The doll's back is shown in Fig. 115. + +[Illustration: FIG. 114--Little girl doll made of a clothespin and +dressed in raw cotton.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 115--Miss Dolly's back.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 116--The clothespin boy.] + +Make the + + +=Boy Doll= + +(Fig. 116) stand in the same manner; fashion his hair of dark cotton, +his trousers of a strip of white cotton tied around the waist and pushed +in between the prongs of the clothespins. Cut the coat from a folded +piece of cotton, a hole in the centre of the fold for the head to pass +through; straight sleeves horizontally cut along the fold; and the +remainder in sacque form like a Japanese coat or pajamas. The sleeves +form the arms and the hands of the boy. + +Fasten a belt high at the back and low in the front around his waist, +giving the coat a Russian-blouse effect; make him a ribbon bow necktie, +and ink the features. + +These small people are very bewitching, as are also the animals. + +You can color the sheet cotton slightly here and there with water-color +paint if you are clever with a paint brush. As you work with these +little dolls and animals you will find ever so many ways to vary them in +effect. They are so soft and fluffy that a baby can play with them +without injury, and a school or college boy may be amused by being +presented with one, appropriately dressed, as a souvenir of pleasant +experiences at a college luncheon or dinner. + +To make a foot-ball player, finish the blouse without necktie or belt; +make the shoulders wide and the hair rather short, like a college boy's +rough head. So much for the boy. Paste a letter cut out of colored paper +on the front of the blouse to make it look like a college sweater, and +gather the trousers in a little at the knees. You can tuck an egg-shaped +ball made of brown raw wool under one arm for a realistic touch, if you +choose. + +Little girl dolls may be similarly made to represent basket-ball players +in short skirts and school or college sweaters, with appropriate emblems +on the front, for a special entertainment. + +Making these figures is much less trouble than dressing dolls entails, +and much more of a novelty, too. They take so many shapes that they fit +almost any occasion. + +In fact, the possibilities of these cotton and clothespin toys are +almost endless in the hands of ingenious young people. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +SCRAP-BOOKS + + +=Mother Goose Scrap-Book= + +THE nursery scrap-books made of linen or colored cambric are, perhaps, +familiar to most of our readers; but for the benefit of those who may +not yet have seen these durable little books, we will give the following +directions for making one: + +Cut from a piece of strong linen, colored cambric, or white muslin, four +oblongs twenty-four inches long by twelve inches wide. Buttonhole-stitch +the edges all around with some bright-colored worsted, then place the +oblongs neatly together and stitch them directly through the centre with +strong thread (Fig. 117). Fold them over, stitch again, as in Fig. 118, +and your book is finished and ready for the pictures. + +[Illustration: FIG. 117--Scrap-book opened and stitched through the +middle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 118--Scrap-book folded and then stitched.] + +It is in the preparation of these pictures that you will find the +novelty of the plan I propose. Instead of pasting in cards and pictures +which have become too familiar to awaken interest, let the young +book-makers design and form their own pictures by cutting special +figures, or parts of figures, from different cards, and then pasting +them together so as to form new combinations. + +[Illustration: FIG. 119--Three Wise Men of Gotham.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 121--Little Jack Horner.] + +Any subject which pleases the fancy can be illustrated in this way, and +the children will soon be deeply interested in the work and delighted at +the strange and striking pictorial characters that can be produced by +ingenious combinations. + +Stories and little poems may be very nicely and aptly illustrated; but +the "Mother Goose Melodies" are, perhaps, the most suitable subjects +with which to interest younger children, as they will be easily +recognized by the little folk. + +Take, for instance, the "Three Wise Men of Gotham," who went to sea in a +bowl. Will not Fig. 119 serve very well as an illustration of the +subject? Yet these figures are cut from advertising cards, and no two +from the same card. Fig. 120 shows the materials; Fig. 119 shows the +result of combining them. + +Again, the little man dancing so gaily (Fig. 122) is turned into "Little +Jack Horner" eating his Christmas pie (Fig. 121), by merely cutting off +his legs and substituting a dress skirt and pair of feet clipped from +another card. The Christmas pie in his lap is from still another card. + +In making pictures of this kind, figures that were originally standing +may be forced to sit; babies may be placed in arms which, on the cards +they were stolen from, held only cakes of soap, perhaps, or boxes of +blacking; heads may be ruthlessly torn from bodies to which they belong, +and as ruthlessly clapped upon strange shoulders; and you will be +surprised to see what amusing, and often excellent, illustrations +present themselves as the result of a little ingenuity in clipping and +pasting. + +[Illustration: FIG. 120--Materials for Three Wise Men of Gotham.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 122--Materials for Little Jack Horner.] + +Another kind, which we shall call the + + +=Transformation Scrap-Book= + +will be found exceedingly amusing on account of the various and +ever-changing pictures it presents. + +Unlike any other, where the picture once pasted in must remain ever the +same, the transformation scrap-book alters one picture many times. To +work these transformations, a blank book is the first article required; +one eight inches long by six and a half or seven wide is a good size. + +Cut the pages of this book across, one-third the way down. Fig. 123 +shows how this should be done. The three-cornered piece cut out near the +binding allows the pages to be turned without catching or tearing. Leave +the first page uncut; also the one in the middle of the book. + +Cut from picture-cards, or old toy-books which have colored +illustrations, the odd and funny figures of men and women, boys and +girls, selecting those which will give variety of costumes and +attitudes. + +[Illustration: FIG. 123--Transformation scrap-book with pages cut.] + +Paste the figure of a woman or a girl on the first page, placing it so +that when the lower part of the next page is turned the upper edge of it +will come across the neck of the figure where it is joined on to the +shoulders. + +Cut the heads from the rest of the pictured women, turn the lower part +of the next page and, choosing a body as different as possible from the +one just used, paste it upon the lower part of the second page, directly +under the head belonging to the first body. Upon the upper part of the +second page paste any one of the other heads, being careful to place it +so that it will fit the body. Continue in this way, pasting the heads +upon the upper, and the bodies on the lower, part of the page, until the +space allowed for the women is filled up; then, commencing at the page +left in the middle of the book, paste upon it the figure of a man, and +continue in the same manner as with the women, until the spaces are all +used and the book is complete. + +The combinations formed in this way are very funny. Old heads with +young bodies; young heads with old bodies; then one head with a great +variety of bodies, and so on. + +The first picture may represent a man, tall, thin, dressed in a rowing +costume, as shown in the illustration. Turn the lower part of the next +page, and no longer is he thin and tall, but short and stout, the +position of this body giving the expression of amazement, even to the +face. The next page turned shows him to be neither tall nor short, thick +nor thin, but a soldier, well-proportioned, who is looking over his +shoulder in the most natural manner possible (Fig. 124). + +[Illustration: FIG. 124--Leaves from a transformation scrap-book.] + +The figures in Fig. 124 were cut from advertising cards, and the head +belongs to none of the bodies. + +A curious fact in arranging the pictures in this way is that the heads +all look as though they might really belong to any of the various bodies +given them. + +Instead of having but one figure on a page, groups may be formed of both +men and women, and in the different arrangement of the figures they can +be made very ludicrous indeed. + + +=Flour Paste= + +Mix one-half cup of flour with enough cold water to make a very thin +batter, which must be smooth and free from lumps; put the batter on top +of the stove--not next to the fire--in a tin saucepan, and stir +continually until it boils; then remove from the stove, add three drops +of oil of cloves, and pour the paste into a cup or tumbler. This will +keep for a long time and will not become sour. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +TOYS MADE OF COMMON KINDLING WOOD + + +JUST a glance at a pile of ordinary every-day kindling wood could hardly +suggest to one the possibilities existing in the crude material for +building all sorts of interesting and realistic things for the little +folks, but experiment and you will find that Klondike log-houses, +rail-fences and lumber camps, bridges, and substantial little rafts +which will float on water in laundry or bath tub, pond or stream, can be +easily and readily built from the little sticks we use to start our +fires. + +Let us build + + +=The Bridge= + +first, that Indians and men may cross the water to the lumber region +beyond, and cut logs for their rafts (Fig. 125). + +Select two sticks of kindling wood as near of a size as you can find, +and lay them side by side, a short distance apart; then connect the two +by placing sticks across the ends, log-cabin fashion. These four sticks +form the square foundation of one bridge pier. + +Continue building by crossing the second layer of sticks with a third +layer, the third layer with a fourth layer, and so on until the pier is +built up sufficiently high, six or more layers, according to the +thickness of the sticks. As you build be sure that the two sticks +forming each layer lie absolutely steady and are of about the same +thickness, that those built on top of them may not slant, but lie level +and steady. + +All sticks should be of the same length, but the layers may vary in +thickness; one layer of sticks might be thin and the next thick; it +matters not, provided that the two forming the same layer are nearly of +a size. + +[Illustration: FIG. 125--The little bridge built of kindling wood.] + +When the first pier is finished, build a second one like it a short +distance from the first one, and lay a strip of stiff pasteboard, cut +from an old box, across from pier to pier; then lay a second strip of +pasteboard from one pier to the ground, a third strip from the remaining +pier to the ground on the opposite side (Fig. 125). If you wish, the two +end strips can be longer than those shown in the photograph, and slant +from the piers down to the ground on a level with the water. The banks +in the photograph are built up with boxes and covered with green cloth. + +For each of the two archways, take two thin sticks of wood and stand +them at the top outward edge of the pier, with ends braced together at +the top, and spread out at the bottom, as in the photograph. + +Use either natural or tissue-paper trees stuck into empty spools for +foliage, or little toy trees, if you happen to have them among the +children's store toys. + +Though the bridge is not intended to be over real water, you might try +the experiment and strengthen the hollow piers by filling them with +stones, when building the bridge out-of-doors. + +[Illustration: FIG. 126--Kindling-wood rafts that will float on real +water.] + +Fig. 126 shows two little + + +=Kindling-Wood Rafts= + +which will float on real water. Have the slender sticks for the raft all +of the same length, and use about sixteen or eighteen sticks for each +raft. Weave them together with a string. Begin by tying the centre of a +long string around each end of a stick, which should be about eight +inches in length (Fig. 127). + +Place one end of a second stick up against one tie, allowing one string +to come over and the other string under the second stick (Fig. 128). +Cross the two lengths of the string over the second stick, bringing the +lower string up and the upper string down (Fig. 129); then lay another +stick up against the crossed strings, carrying the strings in turn over +this stick (Fig. 130). Again, bring the lower string up and the upper +string down, before placing another stick. Continue crossing the string +and adding kindling wood until the raft is of the desired length. Tie +the ends of the string securely on the last stick, and weave the +opposite loose ends of the sticks together in the same way, tying the +string firmly together on the last stick. Clip off the ends of the +string and the raft will then be ready for the water, and will carry +either passengers or freight. + +[Illustration: FIG. 127--Begin the raft in this way.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 128--Lay a second stick up against the tie.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 129--Cross the strings around the second stick.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 130--Cross the strings around the third stick.] + +Put up log-houses for the toy people to live in. Select two different +lengths of kindling wood for + + +=The Houses= + +that the buildings may be longer one way than the other. They will look +better and be more comfortable than if square. + +Place two long sticks of kindling wood a short distance apart and +running parallel; across these sticks lay two shorter ones, bridging the +space at each end between the long sticks, then place two long sticks +over the ends of the two short ones; keep building in this way until the +little house is seven or eight layers high. + +[Illustration: FIG. 131--A Klondike settlement with dog train and +sledge.] + +Cut a piece of white cardboard or light-weight pasteboard the length of +the house, and wider than the width of the house, to allow for the slant +of the roof. Bend the roof lengthwise through the centre and lay it on +top of the house (Fig. 131). Make a door of stiff pasteboard painted or +covered with a layer of brown tissue-paper pasted on the outside. Cut +the door a suitable size and stand it up in front of the house. + +If you want + + +=An Arctic Scene= + +spread a piece of white cloth over a table for the snowy ground. Canton +flannel, fleecy side up, is best, but any kind will answer the purpose. +Then erect several kindling-wood houses and form a Klondike settlement +(Fig. 131). + +Original home-made toy men, dogs, and sled may be used to complete the +scene, or they can be cut from newspapers or old magazines. Stiffen by +pasting them on cardboard; then cut out the men, dogs, and sled more +carefully in detail. Bend one leg forward and one backward to make the +men stand alone, and bend two legs outward and two inward to enable the +dogs to stand. Paste narrow strips of paper on the dogs for harness. + +[Illustration: FIG. 132--The Virginia rail-fence.] + +Make another kindling-wood scene like Fig. 132. + + +=Rail-Fences= + +are peculiar to America. You cannot find them abroad, and every little +boy and girl will want to know how to build one of these old-fashioned +"snake" or Virginia rail-fences. The fence may be of any length, its +zigzag lines can run in any direction, all the way across the room if +you choose. + +[Illustration: FIG. 133--Form a rude letter V.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 134--Across the end of the second stick place the +end of a third stick.] + +Lay down one piece of kindling wood, and over one end place the end of +another stick, forming a rude letter V (Fig. 133). Across the end of the +second stick which rests on the ground, place the end of a third stick +(Fig. 134). Keep on building the first layer of the fence in this way +until it stretches as far as you wish; then go back to the starting +point and begin building the second layer of sticks, by placing a stick +over the first stick, resting one end on the far end of the first stick, +the other end on the top of the end of the second stick; lay another +stick across over the second stick, another over the third, and so on +until the second layer is finished. Build other layers in like manner, +and make the fence high or low, as desired. Pile up kindling wood into a +wood-pile with small pieces scattered on the ground, and if there is a +toy horse you can make him haul more wood (Fig. 132). + +These kindling-wood toys will give a realistic idea of log-houses, +rail-fences, log rafts, and primitive bridges, and while building them +the children might be told stories of the way early settlers lived and +made their homes, or the children may "make up" stories about the +different scenes. + + +=Hammocks= + +Substantial little hammocks which will hold good-sized dolls, and even a +real pussy with no danger of the material breaking, can be made of +ordinary kindling wood or strips of pasteboard (Fig. 135). Both styles +of hammocks are woven in the same manner. The weaving is like that used +for the raft and is of the simplest, most primitive kind, merely +crossing of the two ends of each side string between each piece of wood +(or pasteboard) slat, with loops of string left at each end of the +hammock for hanging it up. When fashioned of kindling wood, like that in +the photograph, have the sticks slender and all of the same length. When +made of pasteboard, cut seven-inch-wide strips from a heavy pasteboard +box and cut the strips crosswise into one-half-inch slats. Have ready +two long strings measuring about two and a half yards each. Double each +string and tie a knot in the closed end, fifteen inches from the extreme +folded end, then place your work on the top of the table, or some other +flat surface where you can keep the slats flat and even. Begin to weave +by laying a slat between the loose ends of each string. + +[Illustration: FIG. 135--A substantial little hammock.] + +Push the slat up tight against the knots and cross the strings on the +outer edge of the slat. Slide another slat between the two ends of each +side string, shoving it close up against the crossed strings at the +outer edge of the first slat. Bring one end of each string over and one +under the second slat, cross them, and add the third slat. Continue +weaving in this way until the hammock is of sufficient length, then tie +the strings securely at the outer edge of the last slat. + +After you have put in the last board bring the slats up very close +together and draw the strings firm and tight. Tie the double lengths of +string together at each end of the hammock, making two long loops by +which to hang up the hammock. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +LITTLE TWIG PEOPLE + + +HAVE you seen the little people who live up in the trees? Little twig +people who dance and swing and bob about, who nod and bow and flutter +hither and yon; some astride funny twig horses, others dangling head +down, many waiting to run a race when a stiff breeze comes along, and +all as merry as merry can be, tossing their long, thin arms and legs in +the air just for the fun of it. Perhaps some of these queer folk are +outside your window now, and it may be near enough to the ground for +even the littlest boys and girls to reach if they stand on their toes. +Here are several of the twig people who came down and posed for their +photographs. We will give each one a name. + +Fig. 145 is Miss Daffy-down-dilly, who has just come to town and is +feeling very bashful about it. + +Fig. 148 is Jack-be-nimble Jack-be-quick, who thinks he can jump over +any candlestick, high or low. + +Fig. 151 is the Little Crooked Man who ran a crooked mile. + +Fig. 152 is Little Miss Muffet, who is so terribly afraid of the spider. + +Fig. 153 is Peter White, who follows his nose wherever he goes. + +Fig. 154 is Doctor Foster, who went to Gloster in a shower of rain, and +he is stepping very high to avoid falling into the puddle we have all +heard about. + +The little twig people do not look quite as real when separated from the +tree as when you see them dancing in the breeze, so it is necessary to +help out their appearance with paper heads and hands and feet. + +Use care in selecting your twigs, for they are not all alike. Some are +quite choice and unique, others more commonplace and less amusing. +Suitable ones may be found in plenty. + +[Illustration: FIG. 136--The black bands on the twigs show where they +should be trimmed off.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 137--Fastening the twig.] + +When a small branch is broken from a tree or bush, you will find that +some of the twigs attached look like queer, crooked, little legs, and +some, just the right distance above, seem made for arms. Then comes the +long neck that is joined, perhaps, to the still larger branch or to the +trunk of the tree. Sometimes there are several arms and several legs +too many and you must look closely and decide which are the real ones; +then cut off the others. + +You will know the real + + +=Arms and Legs= + +for they are always the funniest ones and the most suggestive of comical +action. + +Cut the long neck down in proportion to the rest of the body and trim +the arms and legs off to the proper length. Remember that one inch of +the neck of the dolls must be inserted in the head and allow for that in +cutting the long stem. + +Fig. 136 gives a branch as it looks when taken from the tree, and the +black bands on the twigs show where they should be trimmed off to bring +the little figure into proportions. The parts left white or in outline, +below the bands, are to be cut away. There are two legs to this branch +and three arms, one of which must be dispensed with. The left arm must +remain and it matters but little which of the right arms is selected. In +this case the lower one is marked to be cut. + +Now comes the making of the + + +=Heads, Hands, and Feet= + +These must all be double, for, to hold them on, the twigs are pasted +between the two halves. In some cases, where the neck is quite thick, +you will find it best to shave off a little at front and back to flatten +it, so that the neck may lie easily between the two parts of the head +and not push the face out of shape (Fig. 137). This is seldom necessary, +however, unless the doll is unusually large. + +Figs. 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, and 143 give the heads of all our little +troupe sufficiently large to be copied. Fig. 144 shows the hands and +feet. + +[Illustration: FIG. 138--Daffy-down-dilly.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 139--Little Miss Muffet.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 140--Jack-be-nimble.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 141--The Little Crooked Man.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 142--Peter White.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 143--Doctor Foster.] + +Use a heavy brown wrapping paper for the heads and draw the faces simply +with pen and ink in broad lines, or, if the children want to color +them, they can use water-colors or colored pencils. In any case the +features should be strongly marked, that the character of the face may +not be lost. + +[Illustration: FIG. 144--Hands and feet.] + +You can make the hands of paper like the face, or of dark brown paper +(not tissue), to match the dark brown arms. White hands will give the +effect of white gloves. Make the feet brown or black, or use bright +colored paper to represent colored shoes. + + +=Daffy-Down-Dilly= + +is quite a tall girl, standing eighteen inches high in her heel-less +shoes (Fig. 145). Her head, shown in Fig. 138, measures three inches +from top to chin; this does not include the swirl of hair which rises in +a peak above the head. Her hands, A (Fig. 144), are two and a quarter +inches long from wrist to tip of middle finger, and her feet, B (Fig. +144), are two and three-quarter inches long. + +These are the proportions. Of course, for a smaller doll they should be +smaller. + +Fold a piece of wrapping paper, making it double, and on the paper draw +Daffy's head, copying the one in Fig. 138, or making an original head if +you prefer. The back hair may be drawn in or painted if the children +insist upon having an all-around doll. If the neck is thick shave it off +as in Fig. 137. Draw two hands on double pieces of paper and two feet on +double pieces of paper, and cut them out. Daffy's hands are the color of +her face, and her shoes are black. + +[Illustration: FIG. 145--Daffy-down-dilly.] + +Now cover the inside of the back of the head with paste, lay the neck on +the head and cover that too with paste (Fig. 137). Then fit the front of +the head to the back and press it down until the two halves, with the +twig between, are pasted firmly together. In the same way paste on the +hands and feet. Make Daffy's dress of yellow tissue-paper, the color of +a daffodil. Cut a circle for the skirt with a small hole in the centre +and slit it down the back;' then draw it through your hands to shape it +and make it hang nicely. + +Cut out a little waist with pointed sleeves, like Fig. 146, and a +pointed collar, like Fig. 147. Make the waist double with the fold at +the top, cut a hole for the neck, and slit down the back. Use green +tissue-paper for the collar. + +[Illustration: FIG. 146--Waist of Daffy.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 147--Collar of Daffy.] + +Put the waist on the doll, gather it at the belt line, front and back, +and paste. Paste it also at the neck and along the under edge of the +sleeves. Paste the skirt to the waist at the belt, bring the edges of +the slit together at the back, lap them, and paste. Wrap a strip of the +yellow paper around the waist for a belt, then put the collar around the +neck, and fasten with a touch of paste. + + +=Jack-be-Nimble= + +came from the elm tree. He is ten inches tall from his cap to the sole +of his shoe (Fig. 148). You will find his head in Fig. 140. C (Fig. 144) +is the pattern for his hands, and D (Fig. 144) the pattern for his feet, +which are made of brown paper. His brilliant costume is fashioned of +orange-colored tissue-paper. Cut the coat like Fig. 149, making it +double, with the fold at the top of the high flaring collar. Cut a hole +for the neck and make a small slit down in front, then turn back the +points of the collar at the neck. To avoid slitting the coat all the +way to the bottom, put it on little Jack before you adjust his head. His +neck can be slipped through the hole without trouble; then the edges of +the coat are pasted together. Each leg of the short trousers is made +separately, of an oblong piece of tissue-paper. This is gathered at the +knee and waist line and pasted in place (Fig. 150). If the stripes on +Jack's cap are painted orange color and his pointed shoes are also +orange, the effect of his bright costume will be still more glowing. + +[Illustration: FIG. 148--Jack-be-nimble.] + + +=The Little Crooked Man= + +belongs to the fir-tree family, and as he is clothed only in his little +rough suit of brown bark, you can see (Fig. 151) how the twigs grow that +form his arms and legs. These are in such positions and have such +peculiar curves he would look as if running even without hands and feet, +but the proper adjustment of hands as well as feet emphasizes the +action. Both are turned in the direction in which he is going, and one +foot is lifted while the other rests on its heel, giving the +stepping-forward effect. + +You will find the Crooked Man's head in Fig. 141. His hands are cut from +brown paper, like C (Fig. 144), and his feet, which are also brown, are +like E (Fig. 144). + + +=Little Miss Muffet= + +the largest of the dolls (Fig. 152), is twenty inches high. Her head +(Fig. 139) measures four inches from top to chin and four inches across +at its widest part. Her hands are made of brown paper, like F (Fig. +144), and her high-heeled shoes, like G (Fig. 144), are black. Her head +is tilted to one side and the thumbs of both hands turn in. + +[Illustration: FIG. 149--Pattern of Jack-be-nimble's coat.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 150--Each leg of the trousers is made separately.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 151--The Little Crooked Man.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 152--Little Miss Muffet.] + +You can make Miss Muffet's dress any color you like, the brighter and +gayer the better. Cut the skirt and waist as you did for +Daffy-down-dilly, but do not point the sleeves. Make an apron of two +squares of white tissue-paper--a large and a small one. Use the large +square for the skirt of the apron and the small square for the bib. +Gather the top edge of the large square and the bottom edge of the small +square, and paste to the dress at the belt line; then make a white belt +and tie in a bow at the back. + +For the hat, cut a circle of tissue-paper the color of the dress, put a +little paste in the centre, and pinch it down on the top loop of Miss +Muffet's hair, tipping it a little to one side. This will give a crown. +Turn up the brim at the back and lift it in front to stand out straight. +Fringe a small piece of black paper for a feather and paste it to the +crown of the hat. + +[Illustration: FIG. 153--Peter White.] + + +=Peter White= + +is sturdy compared with the other people (Fig. 153). He came from the +cherry tree and is ten inches high. The main stem, to which the smaller +twigs are attached, forms his neck, body, and left leg, and is so large +that both neck and ankle had to be shaved off somewhat before his head +and left shoe could be pasted on. Originally the twig that forms his +left arm extended beyond the joint at the elbow, but it was cut off, and +the smaller twig was allowed to remain to give the comical bend to the +arm which adds greatly to the appearance of the haste and the swinging +arms of a pedestrian. + +Peter White's head is given in Fig. 142. His brown hands are cut like H +(Fig. 144), and his black shoes like I (Fig. 144). + +This doll is the only one whose head is in profile, but it shows that +when the shape of the twig suggests it, a profile is very effective; and +it is usually the easiest for children to draw. + + +=Doctor Foster= + +is also ten inches high (Fig. 154). His head, with smiling face, is +given in Fig. 143. His brown paper hands are cut like J (Fig. 144), and +his black shoes like E (Fig. 144). He wears his trousers quite short, +that they may not get wet in the famous Gloster puddle, or if they do +they will dry quickly. The trousers are made of wrapping paper, double, +of course, and pasted together at the edges after they have been +adjusted. They are cut like Fig. 155. + +[Illustration: FIG. 154--Doctor Foster.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 155--Doctor Foster's short trousers.] + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +VISITING-CARD HOUSES + + +FROM old visiting cards you can build all the different houses and +furniture seen in the accompanying illustrations. + +[Illustration: FIG. 156--The little tropical house in Uncle Sam's newly +acquired possessions. Made of old visiting cards.] + +For the little + + +=Tropical House= + +in Uncle Sam's newly acquired possessions (Fig. 156), select eight of +your largest and stiffest visiting cards; these are for the four walls +of the first or lower story of the house. If the cards are not alike in +size, make them so by trimming off the edges of the larger cards. + +Place two of the cards together and cut two slashes, one on each side of +the centre, through one end of the double layer (Fig. 157). Slide the +two cut ends together, allowing the centre divisions, A (Fig. 157), to +lie, one over and one under the two cards. This will bring under the +side divisions B and B (Fig. 157), on the card whose centre division A +comes on top, while the divisions B and B of the other card will come +over on the outside (Fig. 158). Fasten all of the remaining cards +together in pairs in the same manner; then cut a long slit near the +outer edge of each of the four pairs of cards, C and C (Fig. 159). Slide +the walls together at right angles, and form a square by means of the +long slits. Do this by holding the open end of one long slit in one wall +under, and at right angles to the open end of one long slit in another +wall, and then fitting the two walls into each other so that they will +stand firm and form one corner of the lower story of the house (Fig. +160). + +[Illustration: FIG. 157--Place two cards together and cut two slashes.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 158--Slide the cards together this way.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 159--Slide the two cards together this way to make +the wall.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 160--Slide the walls together at right angles by +means of long slits.] + +Strengthen the house with an extra inside wall. Cut long slits in each +end of the extra wall, then a long slit near the centre of each side +wall in which to fit the extra wall. + +Make the ceiling of the lower story of two more pairs of cards fastened +together like Fig. 158, and on the ends of each pair of cards cut +similar divisions, only have them quite short (Fig. 161). Bend down all +of the end divisions and fit the strips over across the top of the first +story from front to back, bringing the two corner divisions, D and D +(Fig. 161), on the outside of the wall, while you slide the centre part, +E, on the inside (Fig. 162). Dotted lines indicate the division E on the +inside. + +[Illustration: FIG. 161--Cut short slits on the end of the ceiling +cards.] + +The second story must be built entire before it can be fastened on top +of the first story. + +Make each of the four walls of the second story three cards long. Cut +divisions on both ends of the middle card to fit in the end cards (Fig. +163). + +When cutting divisions, always fit together the two cards that are to be +joined, and cut through the double layer, which will insure having the +divisions alike. + +When the four walls are ready to be put together, cut a window in the +two end cards of the wall which you intend for the front (Fig. 164). +Only the lower edge and sides of the window may be cut; the upper edge +is merely bent and throws the solid window shutter, formed of the piece +cut, outward, as shown in the photograph. + +Slide the four walls together and add a fifth wall, to run through the +centre from side to side, for strength. Use the long slit method for +joining the centre wall to the side walls. + +When built, turn the second story upside down and fit a strip of three +cards, bridge-like, over the centre from front to back, and fasten it to +the bottom of the walls as you attached the ceiling of the first story; +then fit on another strip in like manner over the centre from side to +side, and fasten it to the bottom of the side walls. The two strips will +cross each other at their centres, one lying at right angles over the +other. + +[Illustration: FIG. 162--Fasten ceiling on lower story by sliding the +centre division inside, and the two side divisions outside, the wall.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 163--Middle card for wall of second story.] + +Carefully lift the second story and adjust it squarely and evenly on top +of the first story, as in the photograph (Fig. 156). + +[Illustration: FIG. 164--Walls for second story. Details of the +visiting-card houses.] + +Make the projecting roof of the second story of four strips of four +cards each. Run the strips from side to side of the house and lap them a +trifle, one over the other. The roof is merely laid on and is supported +by the walls. + +The peak is made of two strips of two cards each, and slid into a base +of one strip of three cards by means of long slits. At the apex the +cards are also fastened together with long slits. + +The little summer-house in Fig. 156 has each of the four sides made of +one card. The cards are fastened together by means of long slits. A +doorway opening is cut in the front wall, much in the same manner as the +windows are cut in the large house, only in this case the incision is +made directly on the lower edge of the card, and, when finished, the +lower half of the door is cut off. The door is bent outward and forms a +little canopy for the open doorway, as in the photograph. + +Make the roof of two strips of cards of two cards each by merely laying +the strips across the top opening of the house. + +Fasten the ends of the two cards together with long slits to form the +apex of the peak, and bend the bottom ends of the cards out flat, so the +peak will stand steady on the roof. + +If the children would like to keep the buildings intact to play with at +any future time, as they build up the structures let them add a little +glue or strong paste here and there to hold the various parts firmly +together. The toys will then last a long time and stand considerable +wear. + +Tissue-paper trees in spools furnish the foliage in the photograph, +while a miniature flag, with its pole supported in an empty spool, shows +the nation to which the country belongs. + +Cut little paper people from cardboard and place them on the grounds. + +A fine setting for the scene can be made by tacking a piece of green +canton flannel, fleecy side uppermost, taut over a pastry board, or +pinning it on a piece of the light-weight patent straw pasteboard. + +The fleecy green gives the appearance of grass, and when the glistening +white buildings are set down on the grass among the trees with Old Glory +floating overhead, and gaily dressed dolls in the foreground, the +children will be delighted with the scene; nor will the appreciation be +confined to the children, for older people will also enjoy it. + +[Illustration: FIG. 165--Pagoda.] + + +=The Pagoda= + +in Fig. 165 is extremely easy to build. Make the base square of four +cards fastened together with long slits. On this foundation build up one +card on the front and one on the back, by cutting two short slits on the +lower edge of the lengthwise bottom of the cards, one slit near each +end (Fig. 166), and sliding one card across the front on the uncut top +edges of the sides of the foundation by means of the slits; then +fastening the other card across the back from side to side in like +manner. On top of these two cards build two more, reaching across the +sides from front to back. Continue building in this way until the pagoda +is ten stories high. The projections along the sides are made of two +long narrow cards each, the two cards fastened together at the centre +like Fig. 158; then the ends are bent up and the strip laid across from +side to side on the top edge of the two side cards which form every +other story. The apex roof is built of two cards with the top edges +fastened together, tent-like, by means of long slits, on a foundation +strip of two cards bent up at the ends. + +[Illustration: FIG. 166--Cut one slit near each end.] + + +=The Furniture= + +in Fig. 167 is also made of visiting cards. Take two long, narrow cards, +place them together, and about one-third the distance from one end of +the double layer cut a slit through the two cards, extending it a little +more than half-way across the cards; then take the cards apart and slide +them into each other. Be sure that the two short ends of the cards come +together. Open out the two short ends tent-fashion, and bend down one of +the long ends across its centre for the seat, leaving the other long end +erect to form the back of the chair for the paper doll (Fig. 167). Make +several chairs; then make the dressing-table. Place two long cards +evenly together and cut a slash through and more than half-way across +the centre of the two cards. Slide the cards together, making an X. Bend +out the top and bottom ends of the X flat. For the top of the table +select a rather large card, but not too wide. Cut one slash on each side +of the centre of one of the lengthwise edges. This will make three +divisions. Cut corresponding slashes, but much deeper, in one of the +short ends of a smaller card, which is to be the mirror. Trim off the +end of the middle division in the table top and slide the two cards +together, bringing the B and B divisions (Fig. 157) of the mirror well +forward, so that the top of the table extends back beyond the mirror; +then bend up the B and B divisions of the mirror, as in the photograph. +Place the top with the mirror attached on the X, allowing the X to come +back directly under the mirror in order that the top may be steady. If +you paste a piece of silver paper or tinfoil well smoothed out on the +card for the mirror, the dressing-table will, from a little distance, +appear quite realistic. + +[Illustration: FIG. 167--Card furniture.] + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +PLAYING INDIANS WITH COSTUMES MADE OF NEWSPAPERS + + +THE best framework for a newspaper wigwam can be made of long-handled +feather dusters, but long-handled brushes, or poles of any kind you may +happen to have, will answer the purpose; all that is necessary is +something you can make into a framework similar to Fig. 168. Tie your +poles together at the top and spread them out at the base, tent-fashion. + +Make the + + +=Covering for the Wigwam= + +of six large double sheets of newspaper pasted together. + +[Illustration: FIG. 168--Framework for wigwam.] + +Only three poles will be needed when the covering is of newspaper, but +if you do not happen to have enough newspapers on hand for the entire +outfit of tepees and costumes, you can use a white muslin sheet for the +wigwam, in which case four poles will be needed (Fig. 169). The sheet, +not being stiff like the paper, requires more supports to make it stand +out sufficiently. Should it be inclined to fall in between the poles, +pull it out a little and lay a book over the edge which lies on the +floor, as a weight, to keep the sheet in place. + +[Illustration: FIG. 169--Look at our newspaper Indian costumes. We are +playing Indians.] + +If you would like the wigwam decorated in real Indian fashion, cut out +large colored paper pictures and paste them around the lower part of the +wigwam, forming a band of pictures. Be the covering either cloth or +paper, it will look well decorated, but the covering must be taken off +and the pictures pasted on. The covering should then be adjusted over +the poles. One great beauty and attraction of this newspaper Indian +material is that effective results can be produced quickly and with +little work. + +Make + + +=Moccasins= + +of newspaper, cut like the pattern (Fig. 170). For a small pair the +paper should measure fifteen inches in length and three and a half +inches in width; larger sizes require larger paper. + +Fringe the central portion of the longest edge according to the fringe +lines on Fig. 170. Cut the two boundary lines of fringe, A and A, up to +the dotted line; then bend down all dotted lines. Bring the two ends +together, allowing the fringe to come on the outside, and fit the point +B over the other point B. This finishes the newspaper moccasin (Fig. +171). + +[Illustration: FIG. 170--Cut moccasins this way.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 171--The newspaper moccasin.] + +Make + + +=The Little Dress Skirt= + +of two newspapers pasted together along the shortest edge, then folded +lengthwise through the centre, and the two lower loose ends cut into a +deep fringe. This skirt needs no belt; it should be simply fastened +together at the back over the ordinary dress with safety-pins. + +Use one sheet of paper for the little fringed sacque. Allow the paper to +remain folded along the white central band, and fold the double layers +crosswise through the centre, making four thicknesses. Cut an opening +for the head according to dotted line C (Fig. 172). Fringe the sides +along dotted line D, as shown in diagram (Fig. 172). + +Unfold carefully, that the paper may not tear, and after cutting a slit +from the neck partially down the centre of the front, you will have Fig. +173. If you wish to make the garment less liable to tear, paste narrow +strips of muslin on the under side of the sacque, around the neck, down +each side of the slit, and at the head of the fringe. + +[Illustration: FIG. 172--Newspaper folded ready for making little +squaw's sacque.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 173--Little squaw's newspaper sacque.] + +From a folded piece of newspaper cut the little squaw a head-dress (Fig. +174). Let the top of the feather come on the fold of the paper. Turn +over and crease down the straight edge of the band at the dotted line +(Fig. 174), making four layers. + +[Illustration: FIG. 174--Head-dress.] + +Crown the little girl with the head-dress, pinning the ends together at +the back with a safety-pin. Slip the moccasins on her feet, fastening +them to the toe of the shoe with a little stiff paste, and your +charming little squaw will be ready to play in the wigwam (Fig. 175). + +Older girls can make the Indian costume from the same patterns by +cutting them larger. + +The Indian boy needs a lot of fringed newspaper for his costume. Cut +folded strips to make the fringe thick and in two layers. Fold down the +solid edge of one strip and with safety-pins fasten the fold along the +outside line of the boy's trousers and stockings, as in the photograph +(Fig. 176). Trim the other trouser leg and stocking in the same manner. + +[Illustration: FIG. 175--Charming little squaw.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 176--Young Indian chief.] + +Cut a generous strip of double-layer fringe to fasten entirely around +the boy's shoulders, extending across both back and chest. Reinforce the +top edge of the band of fringe, and along the line where the solid paper +meets the fringe, with strips of muslin, pasted on, to prevent tearing. + +[Illustration: FIG. 177--Newspaper cut for chief's head-dress.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 178--Separate and open out the lower lengthwise +halves of the head-dress which falls down the back.] + +For the chief's + + +=Feather Head-Dress= + +cut a folded strip of newspaper long enough to encircle the boy's head +and allow for a lap--twenty-two inches will probably be correct. Make +the strip six inches wide; the tops of the feathers must be along the +folded edge. Let the feathers be fully four inches high, and allow a +space of one inch on the band at the base of each feather, F (Fig. 177). +The widest part of each feather should be one and three-quarters inches. +Make the band four thicknesses by folding it over at the dotted line; +then crease each separate feather on the right side lengthwise, through +the centre, to stiffen them and insure their standing erect. Cut another +long strip of feathers in the same way, to fall from the head down the +back. On this strip paste the front and back of each feather together at +its base. Also paste together lengthwise the upper portion of the band, +and, instead of folding as you did the first band, separate and open out +its two lower lengthwise halves. Crease them backward away from each +other, so that the feathers may stand erect and the band be at right +angles on each side of the feathers (Fig. 178). + +The open base of the band lying against the boy's back causes the +feathers to stand out and not fall flat and spoil the effect, as they +otherwise might do. The photograph of the boy chieftain standing was +taken expressly that you might see exactly how the newspaper costume of +the Indian brave should look. + +[Illustration: FIG. 179--Begin rolling paper strip for calumet this +way.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 180--Continue rolling the paper.] + +Make the + + +=Calumet= + +of a strip of newspaper five inches wide and about thirty-two inches +long. Hold one corner between your thumb and first finger and roll the +paper as if you were making a lighter (Fig. 179). When you have rolled +it to the opposite corner, E, remove your fingers and let the paper +unroll. Smooth out the rolled corners until it springs back into a large +roll about three-quarters of an inch in diameter (Fig. 180). + +When the corner roll is the right size, continue to roll the paper until +a long round stick is formed (Fig. 181). Paste the loose end of the +stick on the roll and cut both ends off even, as indicated by the dotted +lines in Fig. 181. + +[Illustration: FIG. 181--Stick of rolled paper for calumet.] + +Bend the paper roll about six and a half inches from one end, and bring +the bent portion over against and on top of the roll. Pin the fold down +on the roll three inches from the bend; then turn up the open end to +form the bowl of the pipe, which you must make stand erect should it +seem inclined to lean (Fig. 182). + +[Illustration: FIG. 182--Paper roll bent and pinned into a calumet.] + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +CHRISTMAS-TREE DECORATIONS + + +[Illustration: FIG. 183--The Christmas tree with home-made decorations.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 184--The Christmas star.] + +FIG. 183 is the photograph of a Christmas tree whose trimming is +entirely home-made. The brilliant colors and shining gilt of the papers +used, give a sparkle and life that are most captivating, and the +ornaments are so easily made that the children themselves can do much +toward decorating a tree in this manner. + +At the top of the tree, shining above all other ornaments, is + + +=The Christmas Star= + +(Fig. 184), and this is the way to make it: + +From a piece of cardboard cut an oblong with the top and bottom edges +five and a quarter inches long and the side edges just five inches long +(Fig. 185). Now, exactly in the middle at the top edge, make a dot, A +(Fig. 185); then on each side edge make a dot, BB (Fig. 185). On the +bottom edge, one inch from each bottom corner, make the dots CC. With +the aid of a ruler draw the lines connecting these points, as shown in +Fig. 185. This gives a perfect five-pointed star, five inches high. Cut +the star out, cover its entire surface with a coat of paste, and lay +over it a smooth piece of gilt paper, pressing out the fulness and +creases. When the paste is dry, cut away the paper from the edges, and +there will remain a gilt star, firm and stiff enough to stand up +bravely. + +[Illustration: FIG. 185--Draw the star like this.] + +But this is not all. There are to be a number of gold-tipped rays +flaming out from the star to represent its spreading light. For these +rays select ten broom straws with two prongs. Trim the prongs evenly, +shorten the stems at the bottom, and spread the prongs apart (Fig. 186). +Now, cut twenty strips of gold paper half an inch wide and a little over +four inches long. Lay one strip down, cover the wrong side with paste, +place three broom straws with their prongs resting on the paste side of +the paper, and press another strip of gold paper over the first, +inclosing the tips of the straws. This will give a gold paper on both +sides of the straws. Then, when the paste is dry, cut away the paper, +leaving a gold triangle on the tip of each prong of each broom straw. +Fig. 187 shows one triangle cut out. Treat all of your broom-straw rays +in this way, then cover with paste the centre of the wrong side of the +star up to the points, lay two straws in place, the stems crossing, as +in Fig. 188, and over the stems press a short strip of white paper, like +D (Fig. 188), pasting it down securely. Adjust the other rays between +the points of the star, and fasten in place in the same manner. + +[Illustration: FIG. 186--Place three broom straws on the paper.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 187--One triangle cut out.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 188--Paste the straws on the star.] + +To hold the star upright, make a lighter from a strip of white +writing-paper for a stem. Flatten the top of the lighter, cut it off +evenly, and paste it on the back of the star between the two lower +points, as in Fig. 188. Over the stems of the broom straws and the end +of the lighter paste a white paper lining that will reach part way up +each point of the star. This lining should be made before the rays are +pasted to the star, by laying the star on white paper, tracing around +its edges with a pencil, cutting out the white paper star, and then +clipping off about one inch of the points. The gold star will look like +Fig. 184. + +[Illustration: FIG. 189--The Christmas bells that dangle alluringly.] + +Not the least effective trimmings on the tree are the little + + +=Christmas Bells= + +that hang by strings from the tips of the branches and dangle +alluringly. They are of different sizes, and some are made of gilt, +others of colored paper (Fig. 189). + +[Illustration: FIG. 190--Curve the paper into a cone.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 191--Trim off the bottom points.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 192--The pattern of the bells.] + +For a bell three and a half inches high (a very good size), cut a strip +of paper three and a half inches wide and seven inches long, curve it +into the cone shape shown in Fig. 190, and pin together. Cut off the +point that laps over, according to the dotted line, also the point that +laps under, leaving a little over half an inch for the final lap. Trim +off the bottom points even with the shortest part of the bottom edge, as +shown by the curved, dotted line, and you will have Fig. 191. Fig. 191 +opened out will give you Fig. 192, which will be the pattern for other +bells. + +As Fig. 192 lies flat on the table, run the paste brush along one side +edge, making the coat of paste as wide as the lap is to be, then curve +the bell into shape. Make the bottom edges meet evenly and press the +paste-covered edge over the other side edge. Hold the finger inside the +bell while you do this, to keep it from flattening. + +[Illustration: FIG. 193--Cut out two disks at one time.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 194--Paste the strings between the two disks.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 195--The clapper in the bell.] + +The clapper is made of two round disks of gold paper with the string +pasted between them. For the bell we are now making, the clapper should +be almost one inch in diameter. Fold a piece of gilt paper and cut out +the two disks at one time (Fig. 193). Cover the wrong side of one disk +with paste, lay the end of a string across the middle (Fig. 194), and +press the other disk on top. Both sides of the clapper will then be +gilt. Hold the clapper up to the bell by the string, so that half of +the clapper is below the bottom edge of the bell; then, bringing the +string close to the point at the top of the bell, run a pin through the +string to mark the distance. Where the pin is, tie a knot, F (Fig. 194); +this is to hold the clapper in its proper position. Thread the end of +the string through the eye of a darning-needle and push the needle up +through the point of the bell--the knot will keep the string from +running up too far (Fig. 195). Allow eight or ten inches of string above +the bell, so that it may be hung high or low, as desired. A bell should +never be tied close to a branch, but should hang down far enough to sway +with every passing current of air. The long string also adds to the +decorative effect. + +[Illustration: FIG. 196--The frosty snow pocket.] + + +=The Snow Pocket= + +(Fig. 196) is another pretty ornament and is made with a few snips of +the scissors. + +[Illustration: FIG. 197--Fold the paper crosswise.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 198--Cut slits in the folded paper.] + +Cut a strip of white tissue-paper five and a half inches wide and +twenty-two inches long. Fold the paper crosswise through the middle; +then fold it again and again until your folded piece is one inch wide. +The folds must always be across the paper from start to finish (Fig. +197). Now, cut slits in the folded paper, first a slit on one side, and +then a slit on the other, as in Fig. 198. Let the spaces between the +slits be one-eighth of an inch wide, and cut each slit to within +one-eighth of an inch of the edge. When this is done, carefully unfold +the paper and spread it out flat, then lift the top edge with one hand, +the bottom edge with the other, and gently pull the meshes apart. Gather +the top edge into little plaits, and twist them together in a point; +gather the bottom edge in the same way and twist that; then carefully +pull the snow pocket out, and you will have a long, narrow bag of soft, +white meshes. If it flares out too much, crush it together softly with +your hand. Make a small gilt paper star and fasten a narrow strip of +white tissue-paper to its top point. Open the bag, slip the star inside, +and suspend it half-way from the top by pasting the end of the paper +strip to the top of the bag. Make a loop of tissue-paper, fasten it to +the top point of the bag, and then hang the snow pocket on the tree. The +gold star gleaming through the frosty meshes is very pretty, but if you +have several snow pockets, there need not be stars in all. + + +=Jocko, the Monkey= + +(Fig. 199) is not made of paper, but of delectable, sugary raisins. He +is a funny fellow, and will delight the children. + +[Illustration: FIG. 199--Jocko.] + +Thread a clean, cotton string in a large darning-needle, then select +three of your largest raisins for the body and a suitably shaped one for +the head. There must be three raisins for each leg, one for each foot, +and three for each arm. Tie a knot in the end of your string and, +beginning with one foot, string on three raisins for one leg, then the +three for the body, and, lastly, the one for the head. Tie a knot close +to the top at the head and leave a long end to the string. Thread your +needle again and string on the raisins for the other foot and leg, then +run the needle up through the lower raisin of the body, and fasten the +second string to the first between the two body raisins. + +[Illustration: FIG. 200--Jocko ready to be dressed.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 201--Jocko's hat.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 202--Jocko's coat.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 203--Jocko's skirt.] + +String three raisins for one arm, run the needle through the middle of +the top body raisin, where the shoulders should be, then string on the +three raisins for the other arm and tie a knot at the end. Jocko is all +right now, except that he is very limp. Put stiffening into his joints +by running broom straws through his legs, body, and arms. Use a raisin +stem for the tail, and fasten it on by pushing the largest end into the +lowest body raisin. Make the eyes by running a short piece of broom +straw through the head, allowing the ends to stand out a short distance +in the place for the eyes. Remember a monkey's eyes are always close +together, and they must be made so in order to look natural. + +At this stage Jocko will resemble Fig. 200; but he must have clothes and +a hat to give the finishing touches and make him look like the monkeys +the children are familiar with. Fig. 201 is Jocko's hat, Fig. 202 his +coat, and Fig. 203 his little skirt. + +Cut all of these from bright-colored cambric of a size to fit the +monkey. Fold a piece of cambric for the coat, and cut it out as you +would for a paper doll, with the fold at the top. The skirt and hat are +circular. Cut a round hole in the middle of the skirt for the waist, and +slit it down the back. This furnishes the costume. + +[Illustration: FIG. 204--Bring the corners of the square together.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 205--Slit the triangle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 206--Opened out.] + +Now, thread the end of the string from the top of Jocko's head into the +darning-needle and run the needle through the middle of the hat (Fig. +200); then push the hat down on his head. Fit the skirt around Jocko's +waist, and fasten it at the back with needle and thread; then put on his +jacket and fasten that in front. It is unnecessary to say that Jocko is +good to eat. + + +=The Chrysanthemum= + +ornament is showy and pretty; it is also very quickly made. Fold through +the middle a piece of bright orange tissue-paper six inches square. This +will give you an oblong. Fold again through the middle crosswise, and +you will have a smaller square. Bring the two opposite corners of the +square together and fold like Fig. 204; then cut off the point curving +the edge, as shown by the dotted line. The folded part of the triangle +is at the diagonal in Fig. 204, the edges at the bottom. Now cut slits +in your triangle like Fig. 205. Open it, and you will have Fig. 206. +Make two fringed circles like Fig. 206, lay one on top of the other, +pinch the centre in a point, twist it, and draw the fringed ends +together (Fig. 207). Make a writing-paper lighter for the stem, cover +the point of the ornament with paste, insert it in the large end of the +lighter, and press together with your fingers until it holds tight. The +result will be like Fig. 208. In fastening the chrysanthemum ornament +on the tree, stand it upright and run a pin through the stem into one of +the small branches. + +[Illustration: FIG. 207--Pinch the centre into a point.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 208--The chrysanthemum ornament] + +Strings of + + +=Colored Paper Disks= + +looped from branch to branch, take the place of colored glass balls, and +add materially to the beauty of the tree. + +Fig. 209 shows how these strings are made. Red, gold, yellow, orange, +green, blue, and white make pretty disks, and show off well on the tree. + +[Illustration: FIG. 209--The colored paper disks.] + +Cut your disks perfectly round, and in pairs; for they must be the same +on both sides, G, H (Fig. 209). You can make the disks on some strings +all of one size; on others they may graduate down to quite small ones at +the ends. When the disks are cut out, lay one down, bottom side up, H +(Fig. 209). Cover this with paste, then lay a white cotton string across +the disk, directly through the middle. Allow about six inches of the +string to extend beyond the disk, and let each string be one yard long. +Before the paste has time to dry, press the mate of the disk, G (Fig. +209), on top of H, over the string, taking care to have the edges even. +Go through this process with each disk. Paste them on the string one +inch apart, and leave six inches of string at the last end. + +[Illustration: FIG. 210--A fringed ornament.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 211--Six triangles like this.] + +Fig. 210 is a dainty + + +=Fringed Ornament= + +made of colored and gilt paper. The foundation is a round disk of white +writing-paper, two inches in diameter. To this is pasted the ends of a +narrow light-blue ribbon, long enough to form a loop by which to hang +the ornament. For the rest, cut two circles of light-pink tissue-paper, +six inches in diameter, fringe them on the edges to the depth of one +inch, making the fringe quite fine; then paste one circle on one side of +the foundation, the other circle on the other side. Now, from your gold +paper cut six long, narrow triangles, and cut the wide end into fringe +two inches deep (Fig. 211). Paste these tufts of gold fringe at equal +distances on the pink circle, making the points meet at the centre. Make +a smaller, light-blue, fringed circle, and a still smaller pink circle. +Paste the centre of the blue circle over the centre of the gold fringe, +and the centre of the small pink circle over the centre of the blue. Cut +out a small, eight-pointed gold star and paste directly in the middle of +the pink circle. You can vary this kind of ornament in a number of ways. +Fig. 212 shows another made on the same principle. + +[Illustration: FIG. 212--Another ornament.] + +The crowning glory of every Christmas tree is its + + +=Candles= + +and, whether lighted or not, they are always prominently in evidence. Of +late years the people have grown wise in the matter of fires, and many +parents refuse to light the Christmas candles on their children's tree +because of the great danger of conflagration. + +[Illustration: FIG. 213--Little paper candles.] + +Fig. 213 shows some paper candles on an evergreen branch, standing +upright and burning briskly. The candles may be made of white as well as +colored paper. Make an oblong, K (Fig. 214), four inches long and two +and a half inches wide, the wick one-quarter of an inch high, and the +back of the flame, L, three-quarters of an inch long. From +orange-colored tissue-paper cut the flame (Fig. 215). This should be a +little over a half an inch wide at the base and two inches long. Lay an +oblong on the table in front of you; take a large-sized pencil; place +it on the long edge farthest away from the flame, and roll it on the +pencil (Fig. 216) until the opposite edge overlaps the roll. Then run +the paste brush along the edge and paste it down. Your candle is now a +hollow roll. Slip the roll off the pencil and cut two slim notches +opposite to each other, in the bottom edge (Fig. 217). Make the notches +on some of the candles at the front and back, on others at each side. +This is so that the flames may always face outward, though the branches +that hold the candles may turn in various directions. Lastly, paste the +flame on the back of the flame, allowing the tip to flare out at one +side as though stirred by a current of air (Fig. 217). + +[Illustration: FIG. 214--Begin the candle in this way.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 215--The flame is cut like this.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 216--Roll it on a pencil.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 217--The finished candle.] + +In placing the candles, stand them up astride the branches by means of +the notches at the bottom, turning the right side of the flame always +toward the room. The tiniest twigs will hold these paper candles easily, +and when the needles of the fir interfere with their adjustment, pull +off some of the needles and set the candles astride the bare places on +the branches. + +Finish the tree by throwing over it a web of long, very narrow strips of +white and orange-colored tissue-paper. + +The narrower the strips the better they will look. + +It hardly seems necessary to offer a word of caution, but it will do no +harm to say that the flame of gas, candle, or fire, should not come near +this paper-decked tree, though it is scarcely more inflammable than a +tree trimmed with tinsel. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +A HOME-MADE SANTA CLAUS + + +"MERRY CHRISTMAS! Merry Christmas!" calls out Santa Claus cheerily as +the guests come trooping into the room. + +Laughing and joking, his eyes twinkling with fun, Santa Claus names each +person as he hands out the gifts from his fat Christmas bag and from the +generous pile at his feet. All this merriment happens at Christmastide +when you play the part of good "Kris Kringle" in your own home, in the +schoolroom, the Sunday-school, or in any place where Christmas is +celebrated and where children are gathered to enjoy the festivities. + +Take a good long look at Santa Claus, as shown in the picture (Fig. +218); then turn your eyes to the illustration (Fig. 219). Can you +believe it possible that the two photographs are of the same person in +identically the same pose? Such is truly the case. The second gives the +woman's back, while the first shows her face, arms, and hands +transformed into those of the jolly saint. + +You can see at a glance how very easy it will be for you to have a real, +live, little Santa Claus for your Christmas. + +Any one--grandfather, grandmother, father, mother, big sister or +brother, or you yourself--can assume the character of this live little +saint, can grow suddenly short of stature, jolly and fat, be arrayed in +scarlet, ermine-trimmed, and crowned with a red-peaked hat, all in less +time than it takes to tell it; and, stranger still, the transformation +may be accomplished in a very comfortable way, without even the bother +of changing the usual attire. + +It is essential merely to paste on the face tufts of raw cotton for +eyebrows, mustache and goatee, and to slip over each arm an extra +sleeve. This accomplished, and the proper position taken behind the +curtain, lo, "magic change"! There you are as fine a little Santa Claus +as any one would care to see, and your best friend would not recognize +you, so complete is the change. Disguise your voice and no one can find +you out, not even your nearest relative. + +[Illustration: FIG. 218--Santa Claus as the spectators see him.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 219--The real Santa Claus behind the curtain.] + +When the gifts have been distributed and you are ready to go out among +the excited children or family circle again, step from the curtain, pull +off the extra sleeves, remove the cotton from your face, and in a +moment's time you will again be your own natural self. + +When preparing this entertainment you will find the demand on your purse +very slight, the principal outlay being for the curtain. Purchase +moss-green lining cambric, at four, five, or six cents a yard, to +stretch over the doorway you intend to use. Two yards and a quarter cut +in one full breadth and one half breadth, when sewed together into a +curtain, will be enough for an ordinary doorway. Doorways vary in size, +however, and it is best to take the measurements of yours before buying +the material. The space between the folding doors will probably call for +five yards of cambric. When the strips of cloth are sewed together, +stretch the curtain taut over the opening, tacking it at long intervals +on the topmost level of the wood-work over the door and on the extreme +edge of the door jamb next to the wall. If fastened in this manner, +tacks will not injure the wood-work. + +[Illustration: FIG. 220--Holes in curtain for face and arms.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 221--Cap and body of coat pinned on curtain.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 222--Pattern for sleeve-cap.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 223--Santa Claus's paste board boot top.] + +Stand on the floor facing the centre of the curtain and mark the place +where your face comes; then where your arms will most easily pass +through the curtain. Cut holes in the cloth, one for your face with chin +entirely through, and two for your arms (Fig. 220). Cut the holes small; +they can be enlarged if necessary. + +Make Santa Claus's cap of a piece of scarlet cambric twelve inches wide +and seventeen inches long; tie one end with a string into a tassel; +then pin the cap on top of the face opening (Fig. 221), and cut the +lower edge into a curve to fit the hole as indicated by the dotted lines +in Fig. 221. One width of scarlet cambric twenty-six inches long, used +just as it comes, will make the jacket. + +Draw in one edge of the coat to meet the inner edge of the armhole and +pin it there; do the same with the other side, and you will have fulness +in front to allow for padding. Bring the sides around the armhole +outward again and pin in place; then fold up a wide hem and pin the +sides of the jacket to the curtain and fill out the inside of the jacket +with half sheets of newspaper lightly crumpled (Fig. 221). + +Pin enough paper to the curtain under the coat to give the body of Santa +Claus a decidedly rounded appearance; be sure that the padding is +securely fastened to the curtain. Then pin the sleeve caps, cut +according to Fig. 222, around the outer edge of the armhole. Pin raw +white cotton around the face opening to form the hair and long, full +beard. Allow the cotton to come well over the edge of the hole, that it +may lie naturally on Santa Claus's face. + +With ink, mark the fleecy side of the strips of white canton flannel to +resemble white ermine. Notice particularly the shape of the black ermine +dots and have yours like them. Pin one ermine strip down the front of +the red jacket and another across the bottom edge. Make two long, +separate scarlet sleeves, unhemmed at top and bottom, and pin a band of +ermine around each for a cuff. The only necessary sewing for the entire +costume is the seams of the sleeves. + +[Illustration: FIG. 224--Santa Claus's costume ready for the +impersonator.] + +Polish up a pair of ordinary old shoes, stuff them out with newspapers, +and use them for Santa Claus's feet. Roll two pieces of cardboard, or +pieces of limber pasteboard boxes, into cylinders; ink or blacken them. +When dry, cut a curve in one end of each, like Fig. 223, and fit these +tops over the stuffed shoes to make them into boots. Set the boots on a +bench or a low table, placed across in front of Santa Claus, and +adjust them under the coat, so the little fellow will appear to be +standing on the bench (Fig. 224). Pin Christmas greens, either natural +or of tissue-paper, over the top and down the sides of the curtain, and +you will have a unique, very effective, and novel arrangement for +Christmas, easy to make, and costing but a trifle. Try it. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +NATURE STUDY WITH TISSUE-PAPER + + +A NATURAL flower, some tissue-paper, a pair of scissors, a spool of +thread, and nimble fingers are all you need. + +There are no patterns, only circles and squares and strips of paper +which you gather here, spread out there, wrap and tie somewhere else, +and, with deft fingers, model into almost exact reproductions of the +natural flower before you. + +With its unfamiliar terms to be committed to memory and the many parts +of the flower to be distinguished, botany is apt to prove dry and +tiresome to the little child, but to study nature by copying the flowers +in this marvellously adaptable material is only a beautiful game which +every child, and indeed many grown people, will delight in. The form of +the flower, its name and color, may, by this means, be indelibly stamped +upon the memory, and a good foundation laid for further study. + + +=The Best Models= + +Ordinary garden flowers and those most easily procured make the best +models. The carnation, the morning-glory, and the rarer blossoms of the +hibiscus are well adapted to the work, also the daffodil and some of the +wonderful orchids. + +Even holly, with its sharp-spiked leaves and scarlet berries, and the +white-berried, pale green mistletoe may be closely copied. All these and +many more are made on the same principle, and in so simple a manner +that even quite a little child may succeed in producing very good copies +from nature. + + +=Material= + +Buy a sheet of light pink tissue-paper, another of darker pink, and one +of the darkest red you can find; then a sheet of light yellow-green and +one of dark green. Have a table "cleared for the action" and place your +paper on the right-hand side, adding a pair of scissors and a spool of +coarse thread, or, better still, of soft darning cotton. + +With all this you are to copy the + + +=Carnation= + +which some one has given you or you have growing in your own garden. +Make one of your light pink paper, one of the darker pink, and another +of the rich, deep red to have a variety (Fig. 225). + +[Illustration: FIG. 225--Carnations modelled from tissue-paper.] + +Lay your natural flower down on the left-hand side of the table, away +from your material, but within quite easy reach, for it must be +consulted frequently. Seat yourself comfortably and don't work +hurriedly. + +The first thing necessary in this system of squares and circles is to +know + + +=How to Cut a Circle Quickly= + +easily, and accurately, and always without a pattern. Here is a method +which never fails: + +[Illustration: FIG. 226--Fold the square diagonally through the centre.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 227--The folded square makes the triangle.] + +Cut a square the size you wish to make your circle. That is, if you want +a circle with a diameter of four inches, cut a four-inch square (Fig. +226). Fold the square diagonally through the centre according to the +dotted line on Fig. 226, and you have a triangle (Fig. 227). Fold this +at the dotted line and it will make another triangle (Fig. 228). Again +fold through the middle and you have the third triangle (Fig. 229). Fold +once more and Fig. 230 is the result. Measure the distance from the +edge, B, to the centre, A, in Fig. 230, and mark the same distance on +the other side of the triangle shown by the dot, C (Fig. 231). With your +scissors cut across from C to B, curving the edge slightly, as shown by +the dotted line from C to B (Fig. 231). Fig. 232 is the circle still in +its folds. Fig. 233 is the circle opened, the dotted line indicating +where it has been folded. + +[Illustration: FIG. 228--The second triangle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 229--The third triangle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 230--The fourth triangle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 231--Cut along dotted line.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 232--The folded circle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 233--The circle opened.] + +Your eye will soon become sufficiently accurate to enable you to gauge +the distance from A to B, and you can then cut from C to B without +measuring. + + +=Before Beginning Your Flower= + +take up the natural one and examine it carefully. You will notice that +it has a great many petals crowded closely together, and that their +edges are pointed like a saw. You will also see that the calyx is +wrapped snugly around the lower part of the flower, and that it, too, +has a pointed edge. + +Now hold the pink off at arm's length. The separateness of the petals +disappears and you see them only as a mass; the points on the edges are +not noticeable except as they give the flower a crimped appearance, and +the edge of the calyx looks almost straight. It is this appearance or +the impression of the flower that you are to produce rather than its +many and little separate parts. So now set to work. + + +=Cut Two Squares for Each Pink= + +one measuring five and a quarter inches, the other four and +three-quarters inches, and turn them into circles (Fig. 233), by the +method just explained. Take one of the circles at the centre, where the +folding lines cross, with the tips of the fingers of your left hand, and +pinch it together; then, while still holding it, crimp the edge with the +fingers of your right hand (Fig. 234). Do this always with every kind of +flower, whether it be made of circles or squares. Without loosening your +hold of the centre, draw the paper lightly through your right hand +several times, then crimp the edge again, this time with the blade of +the scissors. Treat all the circles alike, then place a small circle +inside a larger one and draw them through your hand to bring them close +together, pinching them closely until within a little over an inch of +the edge (Fig. 235). Make a slender lighter of ordinary writing-paper +(Fig. 236), snip off the point of the flower, D, in Fig. 235, open the +other end a little, and push the lighter through until its head is +hidden. This forms the stem. Wrap and tie with thread at the bottom of +the flower (Fig. 237), and again where the petals spread. This last is +to be but temporary, as you will remove the thread when the flower is +sufficiently pressed together to hold its shape. + +[Illustration: FIG. 234--Crimp the edge with your fingers.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 235--Draw these through your hand to bring them +closely together.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 236--Make the stem of a paper lighter.] + +From your light green paper cut a circle measuring three and a quarter +inches through its diameter and cut it in two to make the half circle +for the calyx (Fig. 238). Remove the thread that holds the flower just +below its petals and wrap the calyx closely around the lower part, tying +it at the bottom; then cut a narrow strip of dark green paper and wrap +it spirally around the stem, beginning at the top (Fig. 239). Let the +wrapper extend a little below the lighter and twist the end to hold it +in place. Spread the petals of your flower as much like the natural +blossom as possible. + +[Illustration: FIG. 237--Tie the flower to the stem.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 238--The calyx.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 239--Wrap the paper spirally around the stem.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 240--The leaves.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 241--Twist each end into a point.] + + +=Leaves= + +For the leaves cut a strip of dark green paper six inches long and +three-quarters of an inch wide (Fig. 240). Find the centre by folding +the paper end to end and making the crease shown by the dotted line in +Fig. 240. Gather it along this line, not with needle and thread--we use +no needle in this work--but with your fingers, and pinch it together; +then twist each end into a point (Fig. 241). With the sharp end of your +scissors punch a hole directly through the centre, E (Fig. 241), and +push the point of the stem through the hole, bringing the leaves as far +up on the stem as you find them on the natural flower; then wrap and tie +them in place. + +[Illustration: FIG. 242--Make the bud of a circle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 243--Slip the bag over the head of the lighter.] + + +=The Bud= + +is made of a circle of dark green paper the diameter of which is three +and a quarter inches (Fig. 242). Gather this circle between your fingers +as you did the others and crimp the edge with the scissors. It will then +form a little bag or cup like Fig. 242. Slip the bag over the head of +the lighter and tie at the bottom, as in Fig. 243. If the bud does not +take the proper shape at first, model it with your fingers until it is +correct. Start the wrapping of the stem just above where the bud is tied +and finish as you did the stem of the pink. Use small leaves on the bud +stem, having the strip of paper just as wide, but considerably shorter +than for the leaves on the stem of the open flower. + +It is wonderful how very natural these blossoms appear. At a short +distance no one would think they are not the real, old and familiar +pinks. Only the fragrance is missing, and that may also be supplied and +a spicy odor given by inclosing a whole clove in the heart of each +flower. + +[Illustration: FIG. 244--Morning-glory modelled from tissue-paper.] + + +=The Morning-Glory= + +From the pale pink paper you can make a delicately beautiful +morning-glory (Fig. 244). Have the natural flower with its stem and +leaves to copy from, even if the blossom is not the color you want. As +with the pink, it is the general form and appearance we strive for in +the morning-glory, not the detail. + +Make your pink circles with a diameter of about seven inches. It is +always better to have your flowers a trifle larger than the natural +ones, rather than smaller. + +[Illustration: FIG. 245--Flatten out the top.] + +But one circle is required for each morning-glory. Crimp this in your +fingers and draw through your hand as you did the circles for the pinks; +then, pinching it together to within one and a half inches of the edge, +hold it in your left hand and flatten out the top, as in Fig. 245. See +that the fulness is evenly distributed, and pull and straighten out the +edges until you are satisfied with its appearance. + +A piece of bonnet-wire makes the best stem if you wish to give the true +viny effect of the growth. If it is only the blossom you are making, a +paper lighter will answer. When you use the wire, bend one end over to +form a small loop; this is to keep the stem from slipping through the +flower. Pass the straight end of the wire through the centre of the +flower and draw it down until the loop is hidden. + +[Illustration: FIG. 246--Green square for calyx.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 247--Hold the square at the centre.] + +Make + + +=The Calyx= + +of a square of light green paper measuring about four and a half inches. +Fold the square four times through the centre to form the creases shown +by the dotted lines in Fig. 246. Hold the square at the centre and draw +the edges down as in Fig. 247; then bring the two edges together in +gathers, just below one of the corners, to form a leaf-shaped point, +as in Fig. 248. Gather below each corner, tie as in Fig. 249, and twist +each corner into a sharp point like F (Fig. 249). Draw the calyx through +your hand, bringing the points together (Fig. 250). Push the calyx up on +the stem and tie just at the base of the flower, then tie again about +three-quarters of an inch below and wrap the remainder of the calyx +close to the stem. Wind the stem with light green tissue-paper and bend +it as the natural one is bent and curved. + +[Illustration: FIG. 248--Form a leaf-shaped point.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 249--Twist each corner into a point.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 250--Bring the points together.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 251--Gather along one of the creases.] + +Make several buds of the pink paper, following the directions given for +the green bud of the pink; then twist each bud at the point and add a +calyx. + +[Illustration: FIG. 252--The morning-glory leaves.] + +The wilted flower shown in the illustration is made by taking one of the +morning-glories you have just finished and actually wilting it by +drawing the flower together and creasing and pressing it to resemble the +partially closed and drooping natural blossom. + +Only a piece of dark green paper six inches square is required to model +two almost perfectly shaped morning-glory leaves. + +Fold the square twice diagonally across from corner to corner to find +its centre; then begin at one corner and gather along one of the creases +until you reach the centre (Fig. 251). Start again at the opposite +corner, gather along the crease to the centre, then wrap and tie (Fig. +252). Pinch each leaf from underneath along the crease in the middle, to +give the depression at the midrib. Straighten the leaf out a little at +its widest part and you will find you have a pair of leaves which are +surprisingly natural. Wrap and tie these to the stem and make as many +more as you think are needed. + + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Obvious punctuation errors repaired. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Little Folks' Handy Book, by +Lina Beard and Adelia B. 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