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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Amateur Gardencraft, by Eben E. Rexford
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Amateur Gardencraft
+       A Book for the Home-Maker and Garden Lover
+
+Author: Eben E. Rexford
+
+Release Date: May 1, 2008 [EBook #25278]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMATEUR GARDENCRAFT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Audrey Longhurst and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from scanned images of public domain material
+from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+AMATEUR GARDENCRAFT
+
+
+[Illustration:
+
+         Not wholly in the busy world, nor quite
+   Beyond it, blooms the garden that I love
+
+_Tennyson_]
+
+
+
+
+   AMATEUR
+   GARDENCRAFT
+
+   A BOOK FOR THE HOME-MAKER
+   AND GARDEN LOVER
+
+   BY
+   EBEN E. REXFORD
+
+   _WITH 34 ILLUSTRATIONS_
+
+   [Illustration]
+
+   PHILADELPHIA & LONDON
+   J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
+   1912
+
+   COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
+
+   PUBLISHED FEBRUARY, 1912
+
+   PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
+   AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS
+   PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A.
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD
+
+
+The home that affords the most pleasure to its owner is the one which is
+largely the result of personal effort in the development of its
+possibilities. The "ready-made home," if I may be allowed the
+expression, may be equally as comfortable, from the standpoint of
+convenience,--and possibly a great deal more so,--but it invariably
+lacks the charm which invests the place that has developed under our own
+management, by slow and easy stages, until it seems to have become part
+of ourselves.
+
+Home-making is a process of evolution. We take up the work when
+everything connected with it is in a more or less chaotic condition,
+probably without any definite plan in mind. The initial act in the
+direction of development, whatever it may be, suggests almost
+immediately something else that can be done to advantage, and in this
+way we go on doing little things from day to day, until the time comes
+when we suddenly discover what wonderful things have been accomplished
+by our patient and persistent efforts, and we are surprised and
+delighted at the result. Were we to plan it all out before beginning it,
+very likely the undertaking would seem so formidable that it would
+discourage us. But the evolutionary process takes place so gradually, as
+we work hand in hand with that most delightful of all companions,
+Nature, that work becomes play, and we get more enjoyment out of it, as
+it goes along, than it is possible to secure in any other way if we are
+lovers of the beauty that belongs about the ideal home. The man or woman
+who sees little or nothing to admire in tree, or shrub, or flower, can
+have no conception of the pleasure that grows out of planting these
+about the home--_our_ home--and watching them develop from tiny plant,
+or seed to the fruition of full maturity. The place casts off the
+bareness which characterizes the beginning of most homes, by almost
+imperceptible degrees, until it becomes a thing of beauty that seems to
+have been almost a creation of our own, because every nook and corner of
+it is vital with the essence of ourselves. Whatever of labor is
+connected with the undertaking is that of love which carries with it a
+most delightful gratification as it progresses. In proportion as we
+infuse into it a desire to make the most of any and everything that will
+attract, and please, and beautify, we reap the reward of our efforts.
+Happy is the man who can point his friends to a lovely home and say--"I
+have done what I could to make it what it is. _I_ have done it--not the
+professional who goes about the country making what he _calls_ homes at
+so much a day, or by the job." The home that somebody has made for us
+never appeals to us as does the one into which we _have put ourselves_.
+Bear that in mind, and be wise, O friend of mine, and be your own
+home-maker.
+
+Few of us could plan out the Home Beautiful, at the beginning, if we
+were to undertake to do so. There may be a mind-picture of it as we
+think we would like it to be, but we lack the knowledge by which such
+results as we have in mind are to be secured. Therefore we must be
+content to begin in a humble way, and let the work we undertake show us
+what to do next, as it progresses. We may never attain to the degree of
+knowledge that would make us successful if we were to set ourselves up
+as professional gardeners, but it doesn't matter much about that, since
+that is not what we have in mind when we begin the work of home-making.
+We are simply working by slow and easy steps toward an ideal which we
+may never realize, but the ideal is constantly before us to urge us on,
+and the home-instinct actuates us in all our efforts to make the place
+in which we live so beautiful that it will have for those we love, and
+those who may come after us, a charm that no other place on earth will
+ever have until the time comes when _they_ take up the work of
+home-making _for themselves_.
+
+[Illustration: PILLAR-TRAINED VINES]
+
+The man or woman who begins the improvement and the beautifying of the
+home as a sort of recreation, as so many do, will soon feel the thrill
+of the delightful occupation, and be inspired to greater undertakings
+than he dreamed of at the beginning. One of the charms of home-making is
+that it grows upon you, and before you are aware of it that which was
+begun without a definite purpose in view becomes so delightfully
+absorbing that you find yourself thinking about it in the intervals of
+other work, and are impatient to get out among "the green things
+growing," and dig, and plant, and prune, and train. You feel, I fancy,
+something of the enthusiasm that Adam must have felt when he looked over
+Eden, and saw what great things were waiting to be done in it. I am
+quite satisfied he saw chances for improvement on every hand. God had
+placed there the material for the first gardener to work with, but He
+had wisely left it for the other to do with it what he thought best,
+when actuated by the primal instinct which makes gardeners of so many,
+if not the most, of us when the opportunity to do so comes our way.
+
+I do not advocate the development of the æsthetic features of the home
+from the standpoint of dollars and cents. I urge it because I believe it
+is the _duty_ of the home-owner to make it as pleasant as it can well be
+made, and because I believe in the gospel of beauty as much as I believe
+in the gospel of the Bible. It is the religion that appeals to the finer
+instincts, and calls out and develops the better impulses of our nature.
+It is the religion that sees back of every tree, and shrub, and flower,
+the God that makes all things--the God that plans--the God that expects
+us to make the most and the best of all the elements of the good and the
+beautiful which He has given into our care.
+
+In the preparation of this book I have had in mind the fact that
+comparatively few home-owners who set about the improvement of the
+home-grounds know what to do, and what to make use of. For the benefit
+of such persons I have tried to give clear and definite instructions
+that will enable them to work intelligently. I have written from
+personal experience in the various phases of gardening upon which I have
+touched in this book. I am quite confident that the information given
+will stand the test of most thorough trial. What I have done with the
+various plants I speak of, others can do if they set about it in the
+right way, and with the determination of succeeding. The will will find
+the way to success. I would not be understood as intending to convey the
+impression that I consider my way as _the_ way. By no means. Others have
+accomplished the same results by different methods. I simply tell what I
+have done, and how I have done it, and leave it to the home-maker to be
+governed by the results of my experience or that of others who have
+worked toward the same end. We may differ in methods, but the outcome
+is, in most instances, the same. I have written from the standpoint of
+the amateur, for other amateurs who would make the improvement of the
+home-grounds a pleasure and a means of relaxation rather than a source
+of profit in a financial sense, believing that what I have to say will
+commend itself to the non-professional gardener as sensible, practical,
+and helpful, and strictly in line with the things he needs to know when
+he gets down to actual work.
+
+I have also tried to make it plain that much of which goes to the making
+of the home is not out of reach of the man of humble means--that it is
+possible for the laboring man to have a home as truly beautiful in the
+best sense of the term as the man can have who has any amount of money
+to spend--that it is not the money that we put into it that counts so
+much as _the love for it_ and the desire to take advantage of every
+chance for improvement. Home, for home's sake, is the idea that should
+govern. Money can hire the work done, but it cannot infuse into the
+result the satisfaction that comes to the man who is his own home-maker.
+
+But not every person who reads this book will be a home-maker in the
+sense spoken of above. It will come into the hands of those who have
+homes about which improvements have already been made by themselves or
+others, but who take delight in the cultivation of shrubs and plants
+because of love for them. Many of these persons get a great deal of
+pleasure out of experimenting with them. Others do not care to spend
+time in experiments, but would be glad to find a short cut to success.
+To such this book will make a strong appeal, for I feel confident it
+will help them to achieve success in gardening operations that are new
+to them if they follow the instruction to be found in its pages. I have
+not attempted to tell all about gardening, for there is much about it
+that I have yet to learn. I expect to keep on learning as long as I
+live, for there is always more and more for us to find out about it.
+That's one of its charms. But I have sought to impart the fundamental
+principles of it as I have arrived at a knowledge of them, from many
+years of labor among trees, and shrubs, and flowers--a labor of
+love--and it is with a sincere hope that I have not failed in my purpose
+that I give this book to
+
+                THE HOME-MAKER AND THE GARDEN-LOVER.
+
+                                                 THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+   CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+   THE LAWN: HOW TO MAKE IT AND HOW TO TAKE CARE
+   OF IT                                                              17
+
+   PLANTING THE LAWN                                                  34
+
+   SHRUBS                                                             49
+
+   VINES                                                              68
+
+   THE HARDY BORDER                                                   81
+
+   THE GARDEN OF ANNUALS                                              97
+
+   THE BULB GARDEN                                                   116
+
+   THE ROSE: ITS GENERAL CARE AND CULTURE                            128
+
+   THE ROSE AS A SUMMER BEDDER                                       149
+
+   THE DAHLIA                                                        156
+
+   THE GLADIOLUS                                                     166
+
+   LILIES                                                            172
+
+   PLANTS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES                                       176
+
+   ARBORS, SUMMER-HOUSES, PERGOLAS, AND OTHER GARDEN
+   FEATURES                                                          189
+
+   CARPET-BEDDING                                                    205
+
+   FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR EDGING BEDS AND
+   WALKS                                                             216
+
+   PLANNING THE GARDEN                                               223
+
+   THE BACK-YARD GARDEN                                              220
+
+   THE WILD GARDEN                                                   234
+
+   THE WINTER GARDEN                                                 243
+
+   WINDOW AND VERANDA BOXES                                          250
+
+   SPRING WORK IN THE GARDEN                                         257
+
+   SUMMER WORK IN THE GARDEN                                         264
+
+   FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN                                           268
+
+   BY WAY OF POSTSCRIPT                                              272
+
+
+
+
+   ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+   "NOT WHOLLY IN THE BUSY WORLD, NOR QUITE BEYOND
+   IT, BLOOMS THE GARDEN THAT I LOVE"                      _Frontispiece_
+
+   PILLAR-TRAINED VINES                                                8
+
+   IVY, CLIMBING ROSES, AND COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE                      34
+
+   A BIT OF INFORMAL BORDER                                           37
+
+   SHRUBS ALONG THE DRIVEWAY                                          44
+
+   SNOWBALL                                                           57
+
+   AMERICAN IVY AND GERANIUMS                                         60
+
+   HONEYSUCKLE                                                        73
+
+   JAPAN IVY GROWING ON WALL                                          75
+
+   SHRUBS AND PERENNIALS COMBINED IN BORDER                           83
+
+   OLD-FASHIONED HOLLYHOCKS                                           88
+
+   THE PEONY AT ITS BEST                                              90
+
+   A BIT OF THE BORDER OF PERENNIAL PLANTS                            92
+
+   A BED OF ASTERS                                                   106
+
+   BED OF WHITE HYACINTHS BORDERED WITH PANSIES                      125
+
+   HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE                                             130
+
+   ROSE TRELLIS                                                      136
+
+   RAMBLER ROSES                                                     142
+
+   DOROTHY PERKINS ROSE--THE BEST OF THE RAMBLERS                    145
+
+   TEA ROSE                                                          152
+
+   CACTUS DAHLIA                                                     160
+
+   A GARDEN GLIMPSE                                                  170
+
+   AURATUM LILY                                                      174
+
+   THE ODDS AND ENDS CORNER                                          180
+
+   SUMMER HOUSE                                                      191
+
+   A PERGOLA SUGGESTION                                              195
+
+   A SIMPLE PERGOLA FRAMEWORK                                        198
+
+   GARDENER'S TOOL-HOUSE                                             200
+
+   A BORDER OF CREEPING PHLOX                                        220
+
+   IN SUMMER                                                         224
+
+   IN WINTER                                                         224
+
+   PORCH BOX                                                         238
+
+   PORCH BOX                                                         254
+
+   PLANTING TO HIDE FOUNDATION WALLS                                 272
+
+The Illustrations are reproduced from photographs by J. F. Murray.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+THE LAWN: HOW TO MAKE IT AND HOW TO TAKE CARE OF IT
+
+
+The owner of the average small home seldom goes to the expense of
+employing the professional gardener to do the work of lawn-making.
+Sometimes he cannot afford to do so. Sometimes skilled labor is not
+obtainable. The consequence is, in the majority of cases, the lawn,--or
+what, by courtesy, is called by that name,--is a sort of evolution which
+is an improvement on the original conditions surrounding the home, but
+which never reaches a satisfactory stage. We see such lawns
+everywhere--rough, uneven, bare in spots, anything but attractive in a
+general way, and but little better than the yard which has been given no
+attention, were it not for the shrubs and plants that have been set out
+in them. The probabilities are that if you ask the owner of such a place
+why he has no lawn worth the name, he will give one or the other of the
+reasons I have made mention of above as his excuse for the existing
+condition of things about the home. If you ask him why he has not
+undertaken the work himself, he will most likely answer that he lacks
+the knowledge necessary to the making of a fine lawn, and rather than
+experiment with it he has chosen to let it alone.
+
+Now the fact is--lawn-making has nothing mysterious about it, as so many
+seem to think. It does not call for skilled labor. It need not be an
+expensive undertaking. Any man who owns a home that he desires to make
+the most of can make himself a lawn that will be quite as satisfactory,
+in nearly every instance, as the one made by the professional
+gardener--more so, in fact, since what we make for ourselves we
+appreciate much more than that which we hire made for us. The object of
+this paper is to assist home-makers in doing just this kind of work. I
+shall endeavor to make it so plain and practical that anyone so inclined
+can do all that needs doing in a satisfactory manner. It may not have
+that nicety of finish, when completed, that characterizes the work of
+the professional, but it will harmonize with its surroundings more
+perfectly, perhaps, and will afford us quite as much pleasure as the
+work of the expert.
+
+If the house has just been built, very likely everything about it is in
+a more or less chaotic condition. Odds and ends of lumber, mortar,
+brick, and all kinds of miscellaneous building material scattered all
+over the place, the ground uneven, treeless, shrubless, and utterly
+lacking in all the elements that go to make a place pleasing and
+attractive. Out of this chaos order must be evolved, and the evolution
+may be satisfactory in every way--if we only begin right.
+
+The first thing to do is to clear away all the rubbish that clutters up
+the place. Do not make the mistake of dumping bits of wood into hollows
+with the idea that you are making a good foundation for a lawn-surface.
+This wood will decay in a year or two, and there will be a depression
+there. Fill into the low places only such matter as will retain its
+original proportions, like brick and stone. Make kindling-wood of the
+rubbish from lumber, or burn it. Get rid of it in some way before you
+begin operations. What you want, at this stage of the proceedings, is a
+ground entirely free from anything that will interfere with grading the
+surface of it.
+
+If the lot upon which the house stands is a comparatively level one--or
+rather, was, before the house was built--it is generally easy to secure
+a slope from the house on all sides, by filling in about the building
+with the soil thrown up from the cellar or in making excavation for the
+walls. If no excavation of any kind has been made--and quite often,
+nowadays, foundation walls are built _on_ the ground instead of starting
+a foot or two below the surface,--a method never to be advised because
+of the risk of injury to the building from the action of frost in the
+soil,--it may be necessary to make the lot evenly level, unless one goes
+to the expense of filling in. A slight slope away from the house-walls
+is always desirable, as it adds vastly to the general effect. Enough
+soil to secure this slope will not cost a great deal, if it does not
+happen to be at hand, and one will never regret the outlay.
+
+If the ground is very uneven, it is well to have it ploughed, and
+afterward harrowed to pulverize the soil and secure a comparatively
+level surface. Do not be satisfied with one harrowing. Go over it again
+and again until not a lump or clod remains in it. The finer the soil is
+before seed is sown the better will be the sward you grow on it.
+
+If the surface of the yard is _not_ uneven, all the grading necessary
+can be done by spading up the soil to the depth of a foot, and then
+working it over thoroughly with, first, a heavy hoe to break apart the
+lumps, and then an iron rake to pulverize it.
+
+I say nothing about drainage because not one lot-owner in a hundred can
+be prevailed on to go to the trouble and expense of arranging for it. If
+I were to devote a dozen pages to this phase of the work, urging that it
+be given careful attention, my advice would be ignored. The matter of
+drainage frightens the home-maker out of undertaking the improvement of
+the yard, nine times out of ten, if you urge its importance upon him. If
+the location is a rather low one, however, it is a matter that ought not
+to be overlooked, but it is not so important if the lot is high enough
+for water to run off speedily after a shower. If any system of drainage
+_is_ arranged for, I would advise turning the work over to the
+professionals, who thoroughly understand what ought to be done and how
+to do it. This is a matter in which the amateur must work to a
+disadvantage when he undertakes to do it for himself.
+
+If there are hollows and depressions, fill them by levelling little
+hummocks which may be found on other parts of the ground, or by having
+soil drawn in from outside. In filling low places, beat the soil down
+solidly as you add it. Unless this is done--and done well--the soil you
+add will settle, after a little, and the result will be a
+depression--not as deep as the original one, of course, but still a
+depression that will make a low place that will be very noticeable. But
+by packing and pounding down the earth as you fill it in, it can be made
+as solid as the soil surrounding it, and in this way all present and
+future unevenness of the soil can be done away with. It is attention to
+such details as these that makes a success of the work, and I would urge
+upon the amateur lawn-maker the absolute necessity of working slowly and
+carefully, and slighting nothing. Undue haste and the lack of
+thoroughness will result in a slovenly job that you will be ashamed of,
+before it is done, and so disgusted with, on completion, that you will
+not feel like doing the work over again for fear another effort may be
+more unsatisfactory than the first one. Therefore do good work in every
+respect as you go along, and the work you do will be its own reward when
+done.
+
+It is impossible to put too much work on the soil. That is--you cannot
+make it too fine and mellow. The finer it is the finer the sward will
+be. A coarse, lumpy soil will always make an unsatisfactory
+lawn-surface.
+
+Most soils will need the addition of considerable manure, and poor ones
+will need a good deal. To secure a strong, luxuriant stand of grass it
+is very essential that it should be fed well. While grass will grow
+almost anywhere, it is only on rich soils that you see it in perfection,
+and the ideal lawn demands a sward as nearly perfect as possible.
+
+But I would not advise the use of barnyard manure, for this reason: It
+contains the seeds of the very weeds you must keep out of your lawn if
+you would have it what it ought to be,--weeds that will eventually ruin
+everything if not got rid of, like Dandelion, Burdock, and Thistle, to
+say nothing of the smaller plants that are harder to fight than those I
+have made mention of. We cannot be too careful in guarding against these
+trespassers which can be _kept_ out much easier than they can be put to
+rout after they have secured a foothold. Therefore I would urge the
+substitution of a commercial fertilizer for barnyard manure in every
+instance. Scatter it liberally over the soil as soon as spaded, or
+ploughed, and work it in with the harrow or the hoe or rake, when you
+are doing the work of pulverization.
+
+If you do not understand just what kind of fertilizer to make use of,
+tell the dealer as nearly as you can the nature of the soil you propose
+to use it on, and he will doubtless be able to supply you with the
+article you require. It is always safe to trust to the judgment of the
+man who knows just what a fertilizer will do, as to the kind and
+quantity to make use of. Soils differ so widely that it is not possible
+to advise a fertilizer that will give satisfaction everywhere. This
+being the case, I advise you to consult local authorities who understand
+the adaptation of fertilizers to soils before making a choice.
+
+April is a good month in which to seed the lawn. So is May, for that
+matter, but the sooner the grass gets a start the better, for early
+starting will put it in better condition to withstand the effects of
+midsummer heat because it will have more and stronger roots than
+later-sown grass can have by the time a demand is made upon its
+vitality.
+
+Sowing lawn-grass seed evenly is an undertaking that most amateurs fail
+in. The seed is light as chaff, and every puff of wind, no matter how
+light, will carry it far and wide. Choose a still day, if possible, for
+sowing, and cross-sow. That is--sow from north to south, and then from
+east to west. In this way you will probably be able to get the seed
+quite evenly distributed. Hold the hand close to the ground, filled
+with seed, and then, as you make a circular motion from right to left,
+and back again, let the seed slip from between your fingers as evenly as
+possible. A little experimenting along this line will enable you to do
+quite satisfactory work. You may use up a good deal of seed in
+experimenting, but that will not matter. One common mistake in
+lawn-making is to use too little seed. A thinly-seeded lawn will not
+give you a good sward the first season, but a thickly-seeded one will.
+In fact, it will have that velvety look which is one of the chief charms
+of any lawn, after its first mowing. I would advise you to tell the
+dealer of whom you purchase seed the size of your lot, and let him
+decide on the quantity of seed required to make a good job of it.
+
+In buying seed get only the very best on the market. But only of
+reliable dealers. By "reliable dealers" I mean such firms as have
+established a reputation for honesty and fair dealing all along the
+line. Such dealers have to live up to their reputations, and they will
+not work off upon you an inferior article as the dealer who has, as yet,
+no reputation to live up to may, and often does, charging you for it a
+price equal to, or beyond, that which the honest dealer would ask for
+his superior grade of seed. In order to have a fine sward it is
+absolutely necessary that you must have good seed. Cheap seed--and that
+means _poor_ seed, _always_--does not contain the varieties of grasses
+necessary to the making of a rich, deep, velvety sward, and it almost
+always _does_ contain the seeds of noxious weeds which will make your
+lawn a failure. Therefore patronize the dealers in whose honesty you
+have ample reason to have entire confidence, and buy the very best seed
+they have in stock.
+
+After sowing, roll the surface of the lawn to imbed the seed in the
+soil, and make the ground firm enough about it to retain sufficient
+moisture to insure germination. In three or four days the tiny blades
+ought to begin to show. In a week the surface will seem covered with a
+green mist, and in a fortnight's time you will be able to see, with a
+little exercise of the imagination, the kind of lawn you are going to
+have. If the season is a dry one it may be well to sprinkle the soil
+every day, after sundown. Use water liberally, and keep on doing so
+until rain comes or the plants have taken hold of the moister soil below
+with their delicate feeding-roots.
+
+I would not advise mowing until the grass is at least three inches high.
+Then clip lightly with a sharp-bladed mower. Just cut away the top of
+the grass. To mow close, while the grass is getting a start, is the
+worst thing you can do. When it begins to thicken up by stooling out,
+then, and not _till_ then, will you be warranted in setting the mower so
+that it will cut closely. But never _shear_ the sward, as some do. You
+will never have a turf like velvet if you do that. Let there be an inch
+and a half or two inches of the grass-blade left.
+
+The importance of having good tools to work with, in taking care of the
+lawn, ought not to be overlooked. A mower whose blades are dull will
+_tear_ the grass off, and make it look ragged, as if gnawed away by
+animals feeding on it, while the mower whose blades are of the proper
+sharpness will cut it as evenly and as neatly as if a razor had been
+applied to it. You cannot appreciate the difference until you have seen
+a specimen of each, and compared them.
+
+Some persons advocate raking the lawn after each mowing. Others advise
+leaving the clippings to act as a sort of mulch. If the clippings are
+allowed to remain, they wilt, and this will detract from the appearance
+of the sward for a short time, but by the next day they will not be
+noticeable. Raking as soon as mowed makes the lawn more immediately
+presentable. I have never been able to see any great deal of difference
+in the two methods, except as to appearance, therefore I would advise
+the lawn-owner to try both methods and adopt the one that pleases him
+most. If a rake is used, let it be one with blunt teeth that will not
+tear the sward. There is such a rake on the market, its teeth being made
+of bent wire. On no account use a sharp-toothed iron rake. That is sure
+to injure the sward.
+
+Be regular in your attention to the lawn. Do not let the grass get so
+tall that the mower will not do a good job in cutting it. This
+necessitates mowing at regular intervals. If you mow only once a week, I
+would advise the use of the rake, as long grass-clippings are always
+unsightly because they remain on top of the sward, while short clippings
+from frequent mowing sink into it, and are soon out of sight.
+
+In case the lawn is neglected for a week or more, once going over it
+with the mower will not make it very presentable. Mow, and then rake,
+and then go over it again, cutting _across_ the first swaths. The second
+cutting will result in an even surface, but it will not be as
+satisfactory as that secured by _regular_ mowings, at intervals of two
+or three days.
+
+It is a most excellent plan to scatter bonemeal over the surface of the
+lawn in midsummer, and again in fall. Use the fine meal, as the coarse
+article is not readily assimilated by the soil. There is little danger
+of using enough to injure the sward. Injury generally results from not
+using any.
+
+Many lawn-owners, with a mistaken idea of neatness, rake up the leaves
+that scatter themselves over the sward in fall, thus removing the
+protection that Nature has provided for the grass. Do not do this. Allow
+them to remain all winter. They will be entirely hidden by the snow, if
+any falls, and if there is none they are not unsightly, when you cease
+to think of them as litter. You will appreciate the difference between a
+fall-raked lawn and one on which leaves have been allowed to remain over
+winter, when spring comes. The lawn without protection will have a
+brown, scorched look, while the other will begin to show varying tints
+of green as soon as the snow melts. Grass is hardy, and requires no
+protection to prevent winter-killing, but a covering, though slight,
+saves enough of its vitality to make it well worth while to provide it.
+
+The ideal lawn is one in which no weeds are found. But I have never seen
+such a lawn, and never expect to. It is possible to keep weeds from
+showing much if one has a thick, fine sward, but keen eyes will discover
+them without much trouble. Regular and careful mowings will keep them
+within bounds, and when the leaves of large-foliaged plants like the
+Burdock and Thistle are not allowed to develop they do not do a great
+deal of harm except in the drain they make upon the soil. Generally,
+after repeated discouragements of their efforts to assert themselves,
+they pine away and finally disappear. But there will be others always
+coming to take their places, especially in the country, and their
+kindred growing in the pastures and by the roadside will ripen seed each
+season to be scattered broadcast by the wind. This being the case, the
+impossibility of entirely freeing a lawn from weeds by uprooting them or
+cutting them off will be readily apparent. One would have to spend all
+his time in warfare against them, on even a small lawn, if he were to
+set out to keep them from growing there. Therefore about all one can do
+to prevent large weeds from becoming unsightly is to constantly curb
+their aspirations by mowing them down as soon as they reach a given
+height.
+
+The Dandelion and the Plantain are probably the worst pests of all,
+because their seeds fill the air when they ripen, and settle here,
+there, and everywhere, and wherever they come in contact with the ground
+they germinate, and a colony of young plants establishes itself. Because
+the Burdock and Thistle attempt to develop an up-reaching top it is an
+easy matter to keep them down by mowing, but the Dandelion and Plantain
+hug the soil so closely that the mower slips over them without coming in
+contact with their crowns, and so they live on, and on, and spread by a
+multiplication of their roots until they often gain entire possession of
+the soil, in spots. When this happens, the best thing to do is to spade
+up the patch, and rake every weed-root out of it, and then reseed it. If
+this is done early in spring the newly-seeded place will not be
+noticeable by midsummer.
+
+We frequently see weed-killers advertised in the catalogues of the
+florist. Most, if not all, of them will do all that is claimed for them,
+but--they will do just as deadly work on the grass, if they get to it,
+as they do on the weed, therefore they are of no practical use, as it is
+impossible to apply them to weeds without their coming in contact with
+the sward.
+
+Ants often do great damage to the lawn by burrowing under the sward and
+throwing up great hummocks of loose soil, thus killing out large
+patches of grass where they come to the surface. It is a somewhat
+difficult matter to dislodge them, but it can sometimes be done by
+covering the places where they work with powdered borax to the depth of
+half an inch, and then applying water to carry it down into the soil.
+Repeat the operation if necessary. Florists advertise liquids which are
+claimed to do this work effectively, but I have had no occasion to test
+them, as the borax application has never failed to rout the ant on my
+lawn, and when I find a remedy that does its work well I depend upon it,
+rather than experiment with something of whose merits I know nothing.
+"Prove all things and hold fast to that which is good."
+
+Fighting the ant is an easier matter than exterminating weeds, as
+ant-hills are generally localized, and it is possible to get at them
+without injuring a large amount of sward as one cannot help doing when
+he applies liquids to weeds. The probabilities are, however, that ants
+cannot be entirely driven away from the lawn after they have taken
+possession of it. They will shift their quarters and begin again
+elsewhere. But you can keep them on the run by repeated applications of
+whatever proves obnoxious to them, and in this way you can prevent
+their doing a great deal of harm. To be successful in this you will have
+to be constantly on the lookout for them, and so prompt in the use of
+the weapons you employ against them that they are prevented from
+becoming thoroughly established in new quarters.
+
+
+
+
+PLANTING THE LAWN
+
+
+When the lawn is made we begin to puzzle over the planting of trees and
+shrubbery.
+
+What shall we have?
+
+Where shall we have it?
+
+One of the commonest mistakes made by the man who is his own gardener is
+that of over-planting the home-grounds with trees and shrubs. This
+mistake is made because he does not look ahead and see, with the mind's
+eye, what the result will be, a few years from now, of the work he does
+to-day.
+
+[Illustration: IVY, CLIMBING ROSES, AND COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE]
+
+The sapling of to-day will in a short time become a tree of good size,
+and the bush that seems hardly worth considering at present will develop
+into a shrub three, four, perhaps six feet across. If we plant closely,
+as we are all inclined to because of the small size of the material we
+use at planting time, we will soon have a thicket, and it will be
+necessary to sacrifice most of the shrubs in order to give the few we
+leave sufficient room to develop in. Therefore do not think, when you
+set out plants, of their _present_ size, but of the size they will have
+attained to five or six years from now. Do not aim at immediate effect,
+as most of us do in our impatience for results. Be content to
+_plant_--and _wait_. I shall give no diagrams for lawn-planting for two
+reasons. The first one is--no two places are exactly alike, and a
+diagram prepared for one would have to be so modified in order to adapt
+it to the needs of the other that it would be of little value, save in
+the way of suggestion, and I think suggestions of a general character
+_without the diagram_ will be found most satisfactory. The second reason
+is--few persons would care to duplicate the grounds of his neighbor, and
+this he would be obliged to do if diagrams were depended on. Therefore I
+advise each home-owner to plant his lawn after plans of his own
+preparation, after having given careful consideration to the matter.
+Look about you. Visit the lawns your neighbors have made, and discover
+wherein they have made mistakes. Note wherein they have been successful.
+And then profit by their experience, be it that of success or failure.
+
+Do not make the mistake of planting trees and shrubs in front of the
+house, or between it and the street. Place them somewhere to the side,
+or the rear, and leave a clear, open sweep of lawn in front of the
+dwelling. Enough unbroken space should be left there to give the sense
+of breadth which will act as a division between the public and the
+private. Scatter shrubs and flower-beds over the lawn and you destroy
+that impression of distance which is given by even a small lawn when
+there is nothing on it to interfere with the vision, as we look across
+it.
+
+Relegate shrubs to the sides of the lot, if you can conveniently do so,
+being careful to give the larger ones locations at the point farthest
+from the street, graduating them toward the front of the lot according
+to their habit of growth. Aim to secure a background by keeping the big
+fellows where they cannot interfere with the outlook of the little ones.
+
+If paths are to be made, think well before deciding where they shall be.
+Some persons prefer a straight path from the street to the house. This
+saves steps, but it gives the place a prim and formal look that is never
+pleasing. It divides the yard into two sections of equal importance,
+where it is advisable to have but one if we would make the most of
+things. In other words, it halves things, thus weakening the general
+effect greatly. A straight path is never a graceful one. A curving
+path will make you a few more steps, but so much will be gained by it,
+in beauty, that I feel sure you will congratulate yourself on having
+chosen it, after you have compared it with the straight path of your
+neighbor. It will allow you to leave the greater share of the small lawn
+intact, thus securing the impression of breadth that is so necessary to
+the best effect.
+
+[Illustration: A BIT OF INFORMAL BORDER]
+
+I have spoken of planting shrubs at the sides of the home-lot. If this
+is done, we secure a sort of frame for the home-picture that will be
+extremely pleasing. If the shrubs near the street are small and low, and
+those beyond them increase in breadth and height as they approach the
+rear of the lot, with evergreens or trees as a background for the
+dwelling, the effect will be delightful. Such a general plan of planting
+the home-grounds is easily carried out. The most important feature of it
+to keep in mind is that of locating your plants in positions that will
+give each one a chance to display its charms to the best effect, and
+this you can easily do if you read the catalogues and familiarize
+yourself with the heights and habits of them.
+
+If your lot adjoins that of a neighbor who has not yet improved his
+home-grounds, I would advise consulting with him, and forming a
+partnership in improvement-work, if possible. If you proceed after a
+plan of your own on your side of the fence, and he does the same on his
+side, there may be a sad lack of harmony in the result. But _if_ you
+talk the matter over together the chances are that you can formulate a
+plan that will be entirely satisfactory to both parties, and result in
+that harmony which is absolutely necessary to effective work. Because,
+you see, both will be working together toward a definite design, while
+without such a partnership of interests each would be working
+independently, and your ideas of the fitness of things might be sadly at
+variance with those of your neighbor.
+
+Never set your plants in rows. Nature never does that, and she doesn't
+make any mistakes. If you want an object-lesson in arrangement, go into
+the fields and pastures, and along the road, and note how she has
+arranged the shrubs she has planted there. Here a group, there a group,
+in a manner that seems to have had no plan back of it, and yet I feel
+quite sure she planned out very carefully every one of these clumps and
+combinations. The closer you study Nature's methods and pattern after
+them the nearer you will come to success.
+
+Avoid formality as you would the plague if you want your garden to
+afford you all the pleasure you can get out of it. Nature's methods are
+always restful in effect because they are so simple and direct. They
+never seem premeditated. Her plants "just grow," like the Topsy of Mrs.
+Stowe's book, and no one seems to have given any thought to the matter.
+But in order to successfully imitate Nature it is absolutely necessary
+that we familiarize ourselves, as I have said, with her ways of doing
+things, and we can only do this by studying from her books as she opens
+them for us in every field, and by the roadside, and the woodland nook.
+The secret of success, in a word, lies in getting so close to the heart
+of Nature that she will take us into her confidence and tell us some of
+her secrets.
+
+One of the best trees for the small lawn is the Cut-Leaved Birch. It
+grows rapidly, is always attractive, and does not outgrow the limit of
+the ordinary lot. Its habit is grace itself. Its white-barked trunk,
+slender, pendant branches, and finely-cut foliage never fail to
+challenge admiration. In fall it takes on a coloring of pale gold, and
+is more attractive than ever. In winter its delicate branches show
+against a background of blue sky with all the delicacy and distinctness
+of an etching. No tree that I know of is hardier.
+
+The Mountain Ash deserves a place on all lawns, large or small. Its
+foliage is very attractive, as are its great clusters of white flowers
+in spring. When its fruit ripens, the tree is as showy as anything can
+well be. And, like the Cut-Leaved Birch, it is ironclad in its
+hardiness. It is an almost ideal tree for small places.
+
+The Japanese Maples are beautiful trees, of medium size, very graceful
+in habit, and rapid growers. While not as desirable for a street tree as
+our native Maple, they will give better satisfaction on the lawn.
+
+The Purple-Leaved Beech is exceedingly showy, and deserves a place on
+every lawn, large or small. In spring its foliage is a deep purple. In
+summer it takes on a crimson tinge, and in fall it colors up like
+bronze. It branches close to the ground, and should never be pruned to
+form a head several feet from the ground, like most other trees. Such
+treatment will mar, if not spoil, the attractiveness of it.
+
+Betchel's Crab, which grows to be of medium size, is one of the
+loveliest things imaginable when in bloom. Its flowers, which are
+double, are of a delicate pink, with a most delicious fragrance.
+
+The White-Flowering Dogwood (_Cornus florida_) will give excellent
+results wherever planted. Its white blossoms are produced in great
+abundance early in spring--before its leaves are out, in fact--and last
+for a long time. Its foliage is a gray-green, glossy and handsome in
+summer, and in fall a deep, rich red, making it a wonderfully attractive
+object at that season.
+
+The Judas Tree (Redbud) never grows to be large. Its lovely pink
+blossoms appear in spring before its heart-shaped leaves are developed.
+Very desirable.
+
+Salisburia (Maiden-Hair). This is an elegant little tree from Japan. Its
+foliage is almost fern-like in its delicacy. It is a free grower, and in
+every respect desirable.
+
+Among our larger trees that are well adapted to use about the house, the
+Elm is the most graceful. It is the poet of the forest, with its
+wide-spreading, drooping branches, its beautiful foliage, and grace in
+every aspect of its stately form.
+
+As a street-tree the Maple is unexcelled. It is of rapid growth,
+entirely hardy anywhere at the north, requires very little attention in
+the way of pruning, is never troubled by insects, and has the merit of
+great cleanliness. It is equally valuable for the lawn. In fall, it
+changes its summer-green for purest gold, and is a thing of beauty
+until it loses its last leaf.
+
+The Laurel-Leaved Willow is very desirable where quick results are
+wanted. Its branches frequently make a growth of five and six feet in a
+season. Its leaves are shaped like those of the European Laurel,--hence
+its specific name,--with a glossy, dark-green surface. It is probably
+the most rapid grower of all desirable lawn trees. Planted along the
+roadside it will be found far more satisfactory than the Lombardy Poplar
+which is grown so extensively, but which is never pleasing after the
+first few years of its life, because of its habit of dying off at the
+top.
+
+The Box Elder (Ash-Leaved Maple) is another tree of very rapid growth.
+It has handsome light-green foliage, and a head of spreading and
+irregular shape when left to its own devices, but it can be made into
+quite a dignified tree with a little attention in the way of pruning. I
+like it best, however, when allowed to train itself, though this would
+not be satisfactory where the tree is planted along the street. It will
+grow anywhere, is hardy enough to stand the severest climate, and is of
+such rapid development that the first thing you know the little sapling
+you set out is large enough to bear seed.
+
+I like the idea of giving each home a background of evergreens. This for
+two reasons--to bring out the distinctive features of the place more
+effectively than it is possible to without such a background, and to
+serve as a wind-break. If planted at the rear of the house, they answer
+an excellent purpose in shutting away the view of buildings that are
+seldom sightly. The best variety for home-use, all things considered, is
+the Norway Spruce. This grows to be a stately tree of pyramidal habit,
+perfect in form, with heavy, slightly pendulous branches from the ground
+up. Never touch it with the pruning-shears unless you want to spoil it.
+The Colorado Blue Spruce is another excellent variety for general
+planting, with rich, blue-green foliage. It is a free-grower, and
+perfectly hardy. The Douglas Spruce has foliage somewhat resembling that
+of the Hemlock. Its habit of growth is that of a cone, with light and
+graceful spreading branches that give it a much more open and airy
+effect than is found in other Spruces. The Hemlock Spruce is a most
+desirable variety for lawn use where a single specimen is wanted. Give
+it plenty of room in which to stretch out its slender, graceful branches
+and I think it will please you more than any other evergreen you can
+select.
+
+It must not be inferred that the list of trees of which mention has been
+made includes _all_ that are desirable for planting about the home.
+There are others of great merit, and many might prefer them to the kinds
+I have spoken of. I have made special mention of these because I know
+they will prove satisfactory under such conditions as ordinarily prevail
+about the home, therefore they are the kinds I would advise the amateur
+gardener to select in order to attain the highest degree of success.
+Give them good soil to grow in, and they will ask very little from you
+in the way of attention. They are trees that anybody can grow, therefore
+trees for everybody.
+
+In planting a tree care must be taken to get it as deep in the ground as
+it was before it was taken from the nursery. If a little deeper no harm
+will be done.
+
+Make the hole in which it is to be planted so large that all its roots
+can be spread out evenly and naturally.
+
+Before putting it in place, go over its roots and cut off the ends of
+all that were severed in taking it up. Use a sharp knife in doing this,
+and make a clean, smooth cut. A callus will form readily if this is
+done, but not if the ends of the large roots are left in a ragged,
+mutilated condition.
+
+[Illustration: SHRUBS ALONG THE DRIVEWAY]
+
+When the trees are received from the nursery they will be wrapped in
+moss and straw, with burlap about the roots. Do not unpack them until
+you are ready to plant them. If you cannot do this as soon as they are
+received, put them in the cellar or some other cool, shady place, and
+pour a pailful of water over the wrapping about the roots. Never unpack
+them and leave their roots exposed to the air for any length of time. If
+they must be unpacked before planting, cover their roots with damp moss,
+wet burlap, old carpet, or blankets,--anything that will protect them
+from the air and from drying out. But--get them into the ground as soon
+as possible.
+
+When the tree is in the hole made for it, cover the roots with fine
+soil, and then settle this down among the roots by jarring the trunk, or
+by churning the tree up and down carefully. After doing this, and
+securing a covering for all the roots, apply a pailful or two of water
+to firm the soil well. I find this more effective than firming the soil
+with the foot, as it prevents the possibility of loose planting.
+
+Then fill the hole with soil, and apply three or four inches of coarse
+manure from the barnyard to serve as a mulch. This keeps the soil moist,
+which is an important item, especially if the season happens to be a
+dry one. If barnyard manure is not obtainable, use leaves, or
+grass-clippings--anything that will shade the soil and retain moisture
+well.
+
+Where shall we plant our trees?
+
+This question is one that we often find it difficult to answer, because
+we are not familiar enough with them to know much about the effect they
+will give after a few years' development. Before deciding on a location
+for them I would advise the home-maker to look about him until he finds
+places where the kinds he proposes to use are growing. Then study the
+effect that is given by them under conditions similar to those which
+prevail on your own grounds. Make a mental transfer of them to the place
+in which you intend to use them. This you can do with the exercise of a
+little imagination. When you see them growing on your own grounds, as
+you can with the mind's eye, you can tell pretty nearly where they ought
+to be planted. You will get more benefit from object-lessons of this
+kind than from books.
+
+On small grounds I would advise keeping them well to the sides of the
+house. If any are planted in front of the house they will be more
+satisfactory if placed nearer the street than the house. They should
+never be near enough to the dwelling to shade it. Sunshine about the
+house is necessary to health as well as cheerfulness.
+
+Trees back of the dwelling are always pleasing. Under no circumstances
+plant them in prim rows, or just so many feet apart. This applies to all
+grounds, large or small, immediately about the house. But if the place
+is large enough to admit of a driveway, a row of evergreens on each side
+of it can be made an attractive feature.
+
+The reader will understand from what I have said that no hard-and-fast
+rules as to where to plant one's trees can be laid down, because of the
+wide difference of conditions under which the planting must be made.
+Each home-owner must decide this matter for himself, but I would urge
+that no decision be made without first familiarizing yourself with the
+effect of whatever trees you select as you can see them growing on the
+grounds of your neighbors.
+
+Do not make the mistake of planting so thickly that a jungle will result
+after a few years. In order to do itself justice, each tree must have
+space enough about it, on all sides, to enable it to display its charms
+fully. This no tree can do when crowded in among others. One or two fine
+large trees with plenty of elbow-room about them will afford vastly
+more satisfaction than a dozen trees that dispute the space with each
+other. Here again is proof of what I have said many times in this book,
+that quality is what pleases rather than quantity.
+
+If any trees are planted in front of the house, choose kinds having a
+high head, so that there will be no obstruction of the outlook from the
+dwelling.
+
+
+
+
+SHRUBS
+
+
+Every yard ought to have its quota of shrubs. They give to it a charm
+which nothing else in the plant-line can supply, because they have a
+greater dignity than the perennial and the annual plant, on account of
+size, and the fact that they are good for many years, with very little
+care, recommends them to the home-maker who cannot give a great deal of
+attention to the garden and the home-grounds. It hardly seems necessary
+to say anything about their beauty. That is one of the things that "goes
+without saying," among those who see, each spring, the glory of the
+Lilacs and the Spireas, and other shrubs which find a place in
+"everybody's garden." On very small ground the larger-growing shrubs
+take the place of trees quite satisfactorily. Indeed, they are
+preferable there, because they are not likely to outgrow the limits
+assigned them, as trees will in time, and they do not make shade enough
+to bring about the unsanitary conditions which are almost always found
+to exist in small places where trees, planted too thickly at first, have
+made a strong development. Shade is a pleasing feature of a place in
+summer, but there is such a thing as having too much of it. We
+frequently see places in which the dwelling is almost entirely hidden by
+a thicket of trees, and examination will be pretty sure to show that the
+house is damp, and the occupants of it unhealthy. Look at the roof and
+you will be quite sure to find the shingles covered with green moss. The
+only remedy for such a condition of things is the thinning out or
+removal of some of the trees, and the admission of sunlight. Shrubs can
+never be charged with producing such a state of things, hence my
+preference for them on lots where there is not much room. Vines can be
+used upon the walls of the dwelling and about the verandas and porches
+in such a way as to give all the shade that is needed, and, with a few
+really fine specimens of shrubs scattered about the grounds, trees will
+not be likely to be missed much.
+
+I would not be understood as discouraging the planting of trees on
+grounds where there is ample space for their development. A fine tree is
+one of the most beautiful things in the world, but it must be given a
+good deal of room, and that is just what cannot be done on the small
+city or village lot. Another argument in favor of shrubs is--they will
+be in their prime a few years after planting, while a tree must have
+years to grow in. And a shrub generally affords considerable pleasure
+from the start, as it will bloom when very small. Many of them bloom the
+first season.
+
+In locating shrubs do not make the mistake of putting them between the
+house and the street, unless for the express purpose of shutting out
+something unsightly either of buildings or thoroughfare. A small lawn
+loses its dignity when broken up by trees, shrubs, or flower-beds. Left
+to itself it imparts a sense of breadth and distance which will make it
+seem larger than it really is. Plant things all over it and this effect
+is destroyed. I have said this same thing in other chapters of this
+book, and I repeat it with a desire to so impress the fact upon the mind
+of the home-maker that he cannot forget it, and make the common mistake
+of locating his shrubbery or his flower-gardens in the front yard.
+
+The best location for shrubs on small lots is that which I have advised
+for hardy plants--along the sides of the lot, or at the rear of it, far
+enough away from the dwelling, if space will permit, to serve as a
+background for it. Of course no hard-and-fast rule can be laid down,
+because lots differ so widely in size and shape, and the houses we build
+on them are seldom found twice in the same place. I am simply advising
+in a general way, and the advice will have to be modified to suit the
+conditions which exist about each home.
+
+Do not set your shrubs out after any formal fashion--just so far apart,
+and in straight rows--as so many do. Formality should be avoided
+whenever possible.
+
+I think you will find the majority of them most satisfactory when
+grouped. That is, several of a kind--or at least of kinds that harmonize
+in general effect--planted so close together that, when well developed,
+they form one large mass of branches and foliage. I do not mean, by
+this, that they should be crowded. Give each one ample space to develop
+in, but let them be near enough to touch, after a little.
+
+If it is proposed to use different kinds in groups, one must make sure
+that he understand the habit of each, or results will be likely to be
+most unsatisfactory. The larger-growing kinds must be given the centre
+or the rear of the group, with smaller kinds at the sides, or in front.
+The season of flowering and the peculiarities of branch and foliage
+should also be given due consideration. If we were to plant a Lilac with
+its stiff and rather formal habit among a lot of Spireas, all slender
+grace and delicate foliage, the effect would be far from pleasing. The
+two shrubs have nothing in common, except beauty, and that is so
+dissimilar that it cannot be made to harmonize. There must be a general
+harmony. This does not mean that there may not be plenty of contrast.
+Contrast and harmony are not contradictory terms, as some may think.
+
+Therefore read up in the catalogues about the shrubs you propose to make
+use of before you give them a permanent place in the yard.
+
+Also, take a look ahead.
+
+The plant you procure from the nursery will be small. So small, indeed,
+that if you leave eight or ten feet between it and the next one you set
+out, it will look so lonesome that it excites your pity, and you may be
+induced to plant another in the unfilled space to keep it company. But
+in doing this you will be making a great mistake. Three or four years
+from now the bushes will have run together to such an extent that each
+plant has lost its individuality. There will be a thicket of branches
+which will constantly interfere with each other's well being, and
+prevent healthy development. If you take the look ahead which I have
+advised, you will anticipate the development of the shrub, and plant for
+the future rather than the immediate present. Be content to let the
+grounds look rather naked for a time. Three or four years will remedy
+that defect. You can plant perennials and annuals between them,
+temporarily, if you want the space filled. It will be understood that
+what has been said in this paragraph applies to _different kinds_ of
+shrubs set as single specimens, and not to those planted on the
+"grouping" system.
+
+In planting shrubs, the rule given for trees applies quite fully. Have
+the hole for them large enough to admit of spreading out their roots
+naturally. You can tell about this by setting the shrub down upon the
+ground after unwrapping it, and watching the way in which it disposes of
+its roots. They will spread out on all sides as they did before the
+plant was taken from the ground. This is what they should be allowed to
+do in their new quarters. Many persons dig what resembles a post-hole
+more than anything else, and crowd the roots of the shrub into it,
+without making any effort to loosen or straighten them out, dump in some
+lumpy soil, trample it down roughly, and call the work done. Done it
+is, after a fashion, but those who love the plants they set out--those
+who want fine shrubs and expect them to grow well from the
+beginning--never plant in that way. Spread the roots out on all sides,
+cover them with fine, mellow soil, settle this into compactness with a
+liberal application of water, then fill up the hole, and cover the
+surface with a mulch of some kind. Treated in this way not one shrub in
+a hundred will fail to grow, if it has good roots. What was said about
+cutting off the ends on injured roots, in the chapter on planting trees,
+applies with equal pertinence here. Also, about keeping the roots
+covered until you are ready to put the plant into the ground. A shrub is
+a tree on a small scale, and should receive the same kind of treatment
+so far as planting goes. These instructions may seem trifling, but they
+are really matters of great importance, as every amateur will find after
+a little experience. A large measure of one's success depends on how
+closely we follow out the little hints and suggestions along these lines
+in the cultivation of all kinds of plants.
+
+Among our best large shrubs, suitable for planting at the rear of the
+lot, or in the back row of a group, is the Lilac. The leading varieties
+will grow to a height of ten or twelve feet, and can be made to take on
+bush form if desired, or can be trained as a small tree. If the bush
+form is preferred, cut off the top of the plant, when small, and allow
+several branches to start from its base. If you prefer a tree, keep the
+plant to one straight stem until it reaches the height where you want
+the head to form. Then cut off its top. Branches will start below. Leave
+only those near the top of the stem. These will develop and form the
+head you want. I consider the Lilac one of our very best shrubs, because
+of its entire hardiness, its rapid development, its early flowering
+habit, its beauty, its fragrance, and the little attention needed by it.
+Keep the soil about it rich, and mow off the suckers that will spring up
+about the parent plant in great numbers each season, and it will ask no
+more of you. The chief objection urged against it is its tendency to
+sucker so freely. If let alone, it will soon become a nuisance, but with
+a little attention this disagreeable habit can be overcome. I keep the
+ground about my plants free from suckers by the use of the lawn-mower.
+They can be cut as easily as grass when young and small.
+
+[Illustration: SNOWBALL]
+
+If there is a more beautiful shrub than the white Lilac I do not know
+what it is. For cut-flower work it is as desirable as the Lily of the
+Valley, which is the only flower I can compare it with in delicate
+beauty, purity, and sweetness.
+
+The Persian is very pleasing for front positions, because of its
+compact, spreading habit, and its slender, graceful manner of branching
+close to the ground. It is a very free bloomer, and a bush five or six
+feet high, and as many feet across, will often have hundreds of
+plume-like tufts of bloom, of a dark purple showing a decided violet
+tint.
+
+The double varieties are lovely beyond description. At a little distance
+the difference between the doubles and singles will not be very
+noticeable, but at close range the beauty of the former will be
+apparent. Their extra petals give them an airy grace, a feathery
+lightness, which the shorter-spiked kinds do not have. By all means have
+a rosy-purple double variety, and a double white. No garden that lives
+up to its privileges will be without them. If I could have but one
+shrub, I think my choice would be a white Lilac.
+
+Another shrub of tall and stately habit is the old Snowball. When well
+grown, few shrubs can surpass it in beauty. Its great balls of bloom are
+composed of scores of individually small flowers, and they are borne in
+such profusion that the branches often bend beneath their weight. Of
+late years there has been widespread complaint of failure with this
+plant, because of the attack of aphides. These little green plant-lice
+locate themselves on the underside of the tender foliage, before it is
+fully developed, and cause it to curl in an unsightly way. The harm is
+done by these pests sucking the juices from the leaf. I have had no
+difficulty in preventing them from injuring my bushes since I began the
+use of the insecticide sold by the florists under the name of
+Nicoticide. If this is applied as directed on the can in which it is put
+up, two or three applications will entirely rid the plant of the
+insects, and they will not return after being driven away by anything as
+disagreeable to them as a nicotine extract. Great care must be taken to
+see that the application gets to the underside of the foliage where the
+pests will establish themselves. This is a matter of the greatest
+importance, for, in order to rout them, it is absolutely necessary that
+you get the nicotine _where they are_. Simply sprinkling it over the
+bush will do very little good.
+
+The Spirea is one of the loveliest of all shrubs. Its flowers are
+exquisite in their daintiness, and so freely produced that the bush is
+literally covered with them. And the habit of the bush is grace itself,
+and this without any attention whatever from you in the way of training.
+In fact, attempt to train a Spirea and the chances are that you will
+spoil it. Let it do its own training, and the result will be all that
+you or any one else could ask for. There are several varieties, as you
+will see when you consult the dealers' catalogues. Some are double, some
+single, some white, some pink. Among the most desirable for general
+culture I would name _Van Houteii_, a veritable fountain of pure white
+blossoms in May and June, _Prunifolia_, better known as "Bridal Wreath,"
+with double white flowers, _Billardi_, pink, and _Fortunei_, delicate,
+bright rose-color.
+
+The Spireas are excellent shrubs for grouping, especially when the white
+and pink varieties are used together. This shrub is very hardy, and of
+the easiest culture, and I can recommend it to the amateur, feeling
+confident that it will never fail to please.
+
+Quite as popular as the Spirea is the Deutzia, throughout the middle
+section of the northern states. Farther north it is likely to
+winter-kill badly. That is, many of its branches will be injured to such
+an extent that they will have to be cut away to within a foot or two of
+the ground, thus interfering with a free production of flowers. The
+blossoms of this shrub are of a tasselly bell-shape, produced thickly
+all along the slender branches, in June. _Candidissima_ is a double
+white, very striking and desirable. _Gracilis_ is the most daintily
+beautiful member of the family, all things considered. _Discolor
+grandiflora_ is a variety with large double blossoms, tinted with pink
+on the reverse of the petals.
+
+The Weigelia is a lovely shrub. There are white, pink, and carmine
+varieties. The flowers, which are trumpet-shaped, are borne in spikes in
+which bloom and foliage are so delightfully mixed that the result is a
+spray of great beauty. A strong plant will be a solid mass of color for
+weeks.
+
+An excellent, low-growing, early flowering shrub is _Pyrus Japonica_,
+better known as Japan Quince. It is one of our earliest bloomers. Its
+flowers are of the most intense, fiery scarlet. This is one of our best
+plants for front rows in the shrubbery, and is often used as a low
+hedge.
+
+[Illustration: AMERICAN IVY AND GERANIUMS]
+
+One of our loveliest little shrubs is Daphne _Cneorum_, oftener known as
+the "Garland Flower." Its blossoms are borne in small clusters at the
+extremity of the stalks. They are a soft pink, and very sweet. The habit
+of the plant is low and spreading. While this is not as showy as many of
+our shrubs, it is one that will win your friendship, because of its
+modest beauty, and will keep a place in your garden indefinitely after
+it has once been given a place there.
+
+Berberis--the "Barberry" of "Grandmother's garden"--is a most
+satisfactory shrub, for several reasons: It is hardy everywhere. The
+white, yellow, and orange flowers of the different varieties are showy
+in spring; in fall the foliage colors finely; and through the greater
+part of winter the scarlet, blue and black berries are extremely
+pleasing. _Thunbergii_ is a dwarf variety, with yellow flowers, followed
+by vivid scarlet fruit. In autumn, the foliage changes to scarlet and
+gold, and makes the bush as attractive as if covered with flowers. This
+is an excellent variety for a low hedge.
+
+Exochorda _grandiflora_, better known as "Pearl Bush," is one of the
+most distinctively ornamental shrubs in cultivation. It grows to a
+height of seven to ten feet, and can be pruned to almost any desirable
+shape. The buds, which come early in the season, look like pearls
+strung on fine green threads--hence the popular name of the plant--and
+these open into flowers of the purest white. A fine shrub for the
+background of a border.
+
+Forsythia is a splendid old shrub growing to a height of eight to ten
+feet. Its flowers appear before its leaves are out, and are of such a
+rich, shining yellow that they light up the garden like a bonfire. The
+flowers are bell-shaped, hence the popular name of the plant, "Golden
+Bell."
+
+Hydrangea _paniculata grandiflora_ is a very general favorite because of
+its great hardiness, profusion of flowers, ease of cultivation, and
+habit of late blooming. It is too well known to need description.
+
+Robinia _hispida_, sometimes called Rose Acacia, is a native species of
+the Locust. It has long, drooping, very lovely clusters of pea-shaped
+flowers of a soft pink color. It will grow in the poorest soil and stand
+more neglect than any other shrub I have knowledge of. But because it
+_can_ do this is no reason why it should be asked to do it. Give it good
+treatment and it will do so much better for you than it possibly can
+under neglect, that it will seem like a new variety of an old plant.
+
+The Flowering Currant is a delightful shrub, and one that anyone can
+grow, and one that will flourish anywhere. It is very pleasing in habit,
+without any attention in the way of training. Its branches spread
+gracefully in all directions from the centre of the bush, and grow to a
+length of six or seven feet. Early in the season they are covered with
+bright yellow flowers of a spicy and delicious fragrance. In fall the
+bush takes on a rich coloring of crimson and gold, and is really much
+showier then than when in bloom, in spring.
+
+Sambucus _aurea_--the Golden Elder--is one of the showiest shrubs in
+cultivation, and its showy feature is its foliage. Let alone, it grows
+to be a very large bush, but judicious pruning keeps it within bounds,
+for small grounds. It makes an excellent background for such brilliantly
+colored flowers as the Dahlia, Salvia _splendens_, or scarlet Geraniums.
+It deserves a place in all collections. Our native Cut-Leaved Elder is
+one of the most beautiful ornaments any place can have. It bears
+enormous cymes of delicate, lace-like, fragrant flowers in June and
+July. These are followed by purple berries, which make the bush as
+attractive as when in bloom.
+
+The Syringa, or Mock Orange, is one of our favorites. It grows to a
+height of eight and ten feet and is therefore well adapted to places in
+the back row, or in the rear of the garden. Its flowers, which are borne
+in great profusion, are a creamy white, and very sweet-scented.
+
+The double-flowered Plum is a most lovely shrub. It blooms early in
+spring, before its leaves are out. Its flowers are very double, and of a
+delicate pink, and are produced in such profusion that the entire plant
+seems under a pink cloud.
+
+Another early bloomer, somewhat similar to the Plum, is the Flowering
+Almond, an old favorite. This, however, is of slender habit, and should
+be given a place in the front row. Its lovely pink-and-white flowers are
+borne all along the gracefully arching stalks, making them look like
+wreaths of bloom that Nature had not finished by fastening them together
+in chaplet form.
+
+It is not to be understood that the list given above includes all the
+desirable varieties of shrubs suited to amateur culture. It does,
+however, include the cream of the list for general-purpose gardening.
+There are many other kinds that are well worth a place in any garden,
+but some of them are inclined to be rather too tender for use at the
+north, without protection, and others require a treatment which they
+will not be likely to get from the amateur gardener, therefore I would
+not advise the beginner in shrub-growing to undertake their culture.
+
+Many an amateur gardener labors under the impression that all shrubs
+must be given an annual pruning. He doesn't know just how he got this
+impression, but--he has it. He looks his shrubs over, and sees no actual
+necessity for the use of the knife, but--pruning must be done, and he
+cuts here, and there, and everywhere, without any definite aim in view,
+simply because he feels that something of the kind is demanded of him.
+This is where a great mistake is made. So long as a shrub is healthy and
+pleasing in shape let it alone. It is not necessary that it should
+present the same appearance from all points of view. That would be to
+make it formal, prim--anything but graceful. Go into the fields and
+forests and take lessons from Nature, the one gardener who makes no
+mistakes. Her shrubs are seldom regular in outline, but they are
+beautiful, all the same, and graceful, every one of them, with a grace
+that is the result of informality and naturalness. Therefore never prune
+a shrub unless it really needs it, and let the need be determined by
+something more than mere lack of uniformity in its development. Much of
+the charm of Nature's workmanship is the result of irregularity which
+never does violence to the laws of symmetry and grace. Study the
+wayside shrub until you discover the secret of it, and apply the
+knowledge thus gained to the management of your home garden.
+
+Shrubs can be set in fall or spring. Some persons will tell you that
+spring planting is preferable, and give you good reasons for their
+preference. Others will advance what seem to be equally good reasons for
+preferring to plant in fall. So far as my experience goes, I see but
+little difference in results.
+
+By planting in spring, you get your shrub into the ground before it
+begins to grow.
+
+By planting in fall, you get it into the ground after it has completed
+its annual growth.
+
+You will have to be governed by circumstances, and do the best you can
+under them, and you will find, I feel quite sure, that good results will
+come from planting at either season.
+
+If you plant in spring, do not defer the work until after your plants
+have begun growing. Do it as soon as the frost is out of the ground.
+
+If in fall, do it as soon as possible after the plant has fully
+completed the growth of the season, and "ripened off," as we say. In
+other words, is in that dormant condition which follows the completion
+of its yearly work. This will be shown by the falling of its leaves.
+
+Never starve a shrub while it is small and young, under the impression
+that, because it is small, it doesn't make much difference how you use
+it. It makes all the difference in the world. Much of its future
+usefulness depends on the treatment it receives at this period. What you
+want to do is to give it a good start. And after it gets well started,
+keep it going steadily ahead. Allow no grass or weeds to grow close to
+it and force it to dispute with them for its share of nutriment in the
+soil about its roots.
+
+It is a good plan to spread a bushel or more of coarse litter about each
+shrub in fall. Not because it needs protection in the sense that a
+tender plant needs it, but because a mulch keeps the frost from working
+harm at its roots, and saves to the plant that amount of vital force
+which it would be obliged to expend upon itself if it were left to take
+care of itself. For it is true that even our hardiest plants suffer a
+good deal in the fight with cold, though they may not seem to be much
+injured by it. Mulch some of them, and leave some of them without a
+mulch, and notice the difference between the two when spring comes. If
+you do this, I feel sure you will give _all_ of them the mulch-treatment
+every season thereafter.
+
+
+
+
+VINES
+
+
+A home without vines is like a home without children--it lacks the very
+thing that ought to be there to make it most delightful and home-like.
+
+A good vine--and we have many such--soon becomes "like one of the
+family." Year after year it continues to develop, covering unsightly
+places with its beauty of leaf and bloom, and hiding defects that can be
+hidden satisfactorily in no other way. All of us have seen houses that
+were positively ugly in appearance before vines were planted about them,
+that became pleasant and attractive as soon as the vines had a chance to
+show what they could do in the way of covering up ugliness.
+
+There are few among our really good vines that will not continue to give
+satisfaction for an indefinite period if given a small amount of
+attention each season. I can think of none that are not better when ten
+or twelve years old than they are two and three years after
+planting--healthier, stronger, like a person who has "got his growth"
+and arrived at that period when all the elements of manhood are fully
+developed. Young vines may be as pleasing as old ones, as far as they
+go, but--the objection is that they do not go far enough. The value of a
+vine depends largely on size, and size depends largely on age. During
+the early stage of a vine's existence it is making promise of future
+grace and beauty, and we must give it plenty of time in which to make
+that promise good. We must also give such care as will make it not only
+possible but easy to fulfil this promise to the fullest extent.
+
+While many vines will live on indefinitely under neglect, they cannot do
+themselves justice under such conditions, as any one will find who
+plants one and leaves it to look out for itself. But be kind to it, show
+it that you care for it and have its welfare at heart, and it will
+surprise and delight you with its rapidity of growth, and the beauty it
+is capable of imparting to everything with which it comes in contact.
+For it seems impossible for a vine to grow anywhere without making
+everything it touches beautiful. It is possessor of the magic which
+transforms plain things into loveliness.
+
+If I were obliged to choose between vines and shrubs--and I am very
+glad that I do not have to do so--I am quite sure I would choose the
+former. I can hardly explain how it is, but we seem to get on more
+intimate terms with a vine than we do with a shrub. Probably it is
+because it grows so close to the dwelling, as a general thing, that we
+come to think of it as a part of the home.
+
+Vines planted close to the house walls often fail to do well, because
+they do not have a good soil to spread their roots in. The soil thrown
+out from the cellar, or in making an excavation for the foundation
+walls, is almost always hard, and deficient in nutriment. In order to
+make it fit for use a liberal amount of sand and loam ought to be added
+to it, and mixed with it so thoroughly that it becomes a practically new
+soil. At the same time manure should be given in generous quantity. If
+this is done, a poor soil can be made over into one that will give most
+excellent results. One application of manure, however, will not be
+sufficient. In one season, a strong, healthy vine will use up all the
+elements of plant-growth, and more should be supplied to meet the
+demands of the following year. In other words, vines should be manured
+each season if they are expected to keep in good health and continue to
+develop. If barnyard manure cannot be obtained, use bonemeal of which I
+so often speak in this book. I consider it the best substitute for
+barnyard fertilizer that I have ever used, for all kinds of plants.
+
+The best, all-round vine for general use, allowing me to be judge, is
+Ampelopsis, better known throughout the country as American Ivy, or
+Virginia Creeper. It is of exceedingly rapid growth, often sending out
+branches twenty feet in length in a season, after it has become well
+established. It clings to stone, wood, or brick, with equal facility,
+and does not often require any support except such as it secures for
+itself. There are two varieties. One has flat, sucker-like discs, which
+hold themselves tightly against whatever surface they come in contact
+with, on the principle of suction. The other has tendrils which clasp
+themselves about anything they can grasp, or force themselves into
+cracks and crevices in such a manner as to furnish all the support the
+vine needs. So far as foliage and general habit goes, there is not much
+difference between these two varieties, but the variety with
+disc-supports colors up most beautifully in fall. The foliage of both is
+very luxuriant. When the green of summer gives way to the scarlet and
+maroon of autumn, the entire plant seems to have changed its leaves for
+flowers, so brilliant is its coloring. There is but one objection to be
+urged against this plant, and that is--its tendency to rampant growth.
+Let it have its way and it will cover windows as well as walls, and
+fling its festoons across doorway and porch. This will have to be
+prevented by clipping away all branches that show an inclination to run
+riot, and take possession of places where no vines are needed. When you
+discover a branch starting out in the wrong direction, cut it off at
+once. A little attention of this kind during the growing period will
+save the trouble of a general pruning later on.
+
+Vines, like children, should be trained while growing if you would have
+them afford satisfaction when grown.
+
+The Ampelopsis will climb to the roof of a two-story house in a short
+time, and throw out its branches freely as it makes its upward growth,
+and this without any training or pruning. Because of its ability to take
+care of itself in these respects, as well as because of its great
+beauty, I do not hesitate to call it the best of all vines for general
+use. It will grow in all soils except clear sand, it is as hardy as it
+is possible for a vine to be, and so far as my experience with it
+goes--and I have grown it for the last twenty years--it has no
+diseases.
+
+[Illustration: HONEYSUCKLE]
+
+For verandas and porches the Honeysuckles will probably afford better
+satisfaction because of their less rampant habit. Also because of the
+beauty and the fragrance of their flowers. Many varieties are all-summer
+bloomers. The best of these are Scarlet Trumpet and _Halleana_. The
+vines can be trained over trellises, or large-meshed wire netting, or
+tacked to posts, as suits the taste of the owner. In whatever manner you
+train them they lend grace and beauty to a porch without shutting off
+the outlook wholly, as their foliage is less plentiful than that of most
+vines. This vine is of rapid development, and so hardy that it requires
+very little attention in the way of protection in winter. The variety
+called Scarlet Trumpet has scarlet and orange flowers. _Halleana_ has
+almost evergreen foliage and cream-white flowers of most delightful
+fragrance. Both can be trained up together with very pleasing effect.
+There are other good sorts, but I consider that these two combine all
+the best features of the entire list, therefore I would advise the
+amateur gardener to concentrate his attention on them instead of
+spreading it out over inferior kinds.
+
+Every lover of flowers who sees the hybrid varieties of Clematis in
+bloom is sure to want to grow them. They are very beautiful, it is true,
+and few plants are more satisfactory when well grown. But--there's the
+rub--to grow them well.
+
+The variety known as _Jackmani_, with dark purple-blue flowers, is most
+likely to succeed under amateur culture, but of late years it has been
+quite unsatisfactory. Plants of it grow well during the early part of
+the season, but all at once blight strikes them, and they wither in a
+day, as if something had attacked the root, and in a short time they are
+dead. This has discouraged the would-be growers of the large-flowered
+varieties--for all of them seem to be subject to the same disease. What
+this disease is no one seems able to say, and, so far, no remedy for it
+has been advanced.
+
+But in Clematis _paniculata_, we have a variety that I consider superior
+in every respect to the large-flowered kinds, and to date no one has
+reported any trouble with it. It is of strong and healthy growth, and
+rampant in its habit, thus making it useful where the large-flowered
+kinds have proved defective, as none of them are of what may be called
+free growth. They grow to a height of seven or eight feet--sometimes
+ten,--but have few branches, and sparse foliage. _Paniculata_, on the
+contrary, makes a very vigorous growth--often twenty feet in a
+season--and its foliage, unlike that of the other varieties, is
+attractive enough in itself to make the plant well worth growing. It is
+a rich, glossy green, and so freely produced that it furnishes a dense
+shade. Late in the season, after most other plants are in "the sere and
+yellow leaf" it is literally covered with great panicles of starry white
+flowers which have a delightful fragrance. While this variety lacks the
+rich color of such varieties as _Jackmani_ and others of the hybrid
+class, it is really far more beautiful. Indeed, I know of no flowering
+vine that can equal it in this respect. Its late-flowering habit adds
+greatly to its value. It is not only healthy, but hardy--a quality no
+one can afford to overlook when planting vines about the house. Like
+Clematis _flammula_, a summer-blooming relative of great value both for
+its beauty and because it is a native, it is likely to die pretty nearly
+to the ground in winter, but, because of rapid growth, this is not much
+of an objection. By the time the flowers of either variety are likely to
+come in for a fair share of appreciation, the vines will have grown to
+good size.
+
+For the middle and southern sections of the northern states the Wistaria
+is a most desirable vine, but at the north it cannot be depended on to
+survive the winter in a condition that will enable it to give a
+satisfactory crop of flowers. Its roots will live, but most of its
+branches will be killed each season.
+
+Ampelopsis _Veitchii_, more commonly known as Boston or Japan Ivy, is a
+charming vine to train over brick and stone walls in localities where it
+is hardy, because of its dense habit of growth. Its foliage is smaller
+than that of the native Ampelopsis, and it is far less rampant in
+growth, though a free grower. It will completely cover the walls of a
+building with its dark green foliage, every shoot clinging so closely
+that a person seeing the plant for the first time would get the idea
+that it had been shorn of all its branches except those adhering to the
+wall. All its branches attach themselves to the wall-surface, thus
+giving an even, uniform effect quite unlike that of other vines which
+throw out branches in all directions, regardless of wall or trellis. In
+autumn this variety takes on a rich coloring that must be seen to be
+fully appreciated.
+
+[Illustration: JAPAN IVY GROWING ON WALL]
+
+Our native Celastrus, popularly known as Bittersweet, is a very
+desirable vine if it can be given something to twine itself about. It
+has neither tendril nor disc, and supports itself by twisting its new
+growth about trees over which it clambers, branches--anything that it
+can wind about. If no other support is to be found it will twist about
+itself in such a manner as to form a great rope of branches. It has
+attractive foliage, but the chief beauty of the vine is its clusters of
+pendant fruit, which hang to the plant well into winter. This fruit is a
+berry of bright crimson, enclosed in an orange shell which cracks open,
+in three pieces, and becomes reflexed, thus disclosing the berry within.
+As these berries grow in clusters of good size, and are very freely
+produced, the effect of a large plant can be imagined. In fall the
+foliage turns to a pure gold, and forms a most pleasing background for
+the scarlet and orange clusters to display themselves against. The plant
+is of extremely rapid growth. It has a habit of spreading rapidly, and
+widely, by sending out underground shoots which come to the surface many
+feet away from the parent plant. These must be kept mowed down or they
+will become a nuisance.
+
+Flower-loving people are often impatient of results, and I am often
+asked what annual I would advise one to make use of, for immediate
+effect, or while the hardy vines are getting a start. I know of nothing
+better, all things considered, than the Morning Glory, of which mention
+will be found elsewhere.
+
+The Flowering Bean is a pretty vine for training up about verandas, but
+does not grow to a sufficient height to make it of much value elsewhere.
+It is fine for covering low trellises or a fence.
+
+The "climbing" Nasturtiums are not really climbers. Rather plants with
+such long and slender branches that they must be given some support to
+keep them from straggling all over the ground. They are very pleasing
+when used to cover fences, low screens, and trellises, or when trained
+along the railing of the veranda.
+
+The Kudzu Vine is of wonderful rapidity of growth, and will be found a
+good substitute for a hardy vine about piazzas and porches.
+
+Aristolochia, or Dutchman's Pipe, is a hardy vine of more than ordinary
+merit. It has large, overlapping leaves that furnish a dense shade, and
+very peculiar flowers--more peculiar, in fact, than beautiful.
+
+Bignonia will give satisfaction south of Chicago, in most localities.
+Where it stands the winter it is a favorite on account of its great
+profusion of orange-scarlet flowers and its pretty, finely-cut foliage.
+Farther north it will live on indefinitely, like the Wistaria, but its
+branches will nearly always be badly killed in winter.
+
+It is a mistake to make use of strips of cloth in fastening vines to
+walls, as so many are in the habit of doing, because the cloth will soon
+rot, and when a strong wind comes along, or after a heavy rain, the
+vines will be torn from their places, and generally it will be found
+impossible to replace them satisfactorily. Cloth and twine may answer
+well enough for annual vines, with the exception of the Morning Glory,
+but vines of heavy growth should be fastened with strips of leather
+passed about the main stalks and nailed to the wall securely. Do not use
+a small tack, as the weight of the vines will often tear it loose from
+the wood. Do not make the leather so tight that it will interfere with
+the circulation of sap in the plant. Allow space for future growth. Some
+persons use iron staples, but I would not advise them as they are sure
+to chafe the branches they are used to support.
+
+The question is often asked if vines are not harmful to the walls over
+which they are trained. I have never found them so. On the contrary, I
+have found walls that had been covered with vines for years in a better
+state of preservation than walls on which no vines had ever been
+trained. The explanation is a simple one: The leaves of the vines act in
+the capacity of shingles, and shed rain, thus keeping it from getting to
+the walls of the building.
+
+But I would not advise training vines over the roof, unless it is
+constructed of slate or some material not injured by dampness, because
+the moisture will get below the foliage, where the sun cannot get at it,
+and long-continued dampness will soon bring on decay.
+
+On account of the difficulty of getting at them, vines are never pruned
+to any great extent, but it would be for the betterment of them if they
+were gone over every year, and all the oldest branches cut away, or
+thinned out enough to admit of a free circulation of air. If this were
+done, the vine would be constantly renewing itself, and most kinds would
+be good for a lifetime. It really is not such a difficult undertaking as
+most people imagine, for by the use of an ordinary ladder one can get at
+most parts of a building, and reach such portions of the vines as need
+attention most.
+
+
+
+
+THE HARDY BORDER
+
+
+The most satisfactory garden of flowering plants for small places, all
+things considered, is one composed of hardy herbaceous perennials and
+biennials.
+
+This for several reasons:
+
+1st.--Once thoroughly established they are good for an indefinite
+period.
+
+2d.--It is not necessary to "make garden" annually, as is the case where
+annuals are depended on.
+
+3d.--They require less care than any other class of plants.
+
+4th.--Requiring less care than other plants, they are admirably adapted
+to the needs of those who can devote only a limited amount of time to
+gardening.
+
+5th.--They include some of the most beautiful plants we have.
+
+6th.--By a judicious selection of kinds it is possible to have flowers
+from them from early in spring till late in fall.
+
+I have no disposition to say disparaging things about the garden of
+annuals. Annuals are very desirable. Some of them are absolutely
+indispensable. But they call for a great deal of labor. It is hard work
+to spade the ground, and make the beds, and sow the seed, and keep the
+weeds down. This work must be done year after year. But with hardy
+plants this is not the case. Considerable labor may be called for, the
+first year, in preparing the ground and setting out the plants, but the
+most of the work done among them, after that, can be done with the hoe,
+and it will take so little time to do it that you will wonder how you
+ever came to think annuals the only plants for the flower-garden of busy
+people. That this _is_ what a great many persons think is true, but it
+is because they have not had sufficient experience with hardy plants to
+fully understand their merits, and the small amount of care they
+require. A season's experience will convince them of their mistake.
+
+[Illustration: SHRUBS AND PERENNIALS COMBINED IN BORDER]
+
+In preparing the ground for the reception of these plants, spade it up
+to the depth of a foot and a half, at least, and work into it a liberal
+amount of good manure, or some commercial fertilizer that will take the
+place of manure from the barnyard or cow-stable. Most perennials and
+herbaceous plants will do fairly well in a soil of only moderate
+richness, but they cannot do themselves justice in it. They ought not to
+be expected to. To secure the best results from them--and you ought to
+be satisfied with nothing less--feed them well. Give them a good start,
+at the time of planting, and keep them up to a high standard of vitality
+by liberal feeding, and they will surprise and delight you with the
+profusion and beauty of their bloom.
+
+Perennials will not bloom till the second year from seed. Therefore, if
+you want flowers from them the first season, it will be necessary for
+you to purchase last season's seedlings from the florist.
+
+In most neighborhoods one can secure enough material to stock the border
+from friends who have old plants that need to be divided, or by
+exchanging varieties.
+
+But if you want plants of any particular color, or of a certain variety,
+you will do well to give your order to a dealer. In most gardens five or
+six years old the original varieties will either have died out or so
+deteriorated that the stock you obtain there will be inferior in many
+respects, therefore not at all satisfactory to one who is inclined to be
+satisfied with nothing but the best. The "best" is what the dealer will
+send you if you patronize one who has established a reputation for
+honesty.
+
+The impression prevails, to a great extent, that perennials bloom only
+for a very short time in the early part of the season. This is a
+mistake. If you select your plants with a view to the prolongation of
+the flowering period, you can have flowers throughout the season from
+this class of plants. Of course not all of them will bloom at the same
+time. I would not be understood as meaning that. But what I do mean
+is--that by choosing for a succession of bloom it is possible to secure
+kinds whose flowering periods will meet and overlap each other in such a
+manner that some of them will be in bloom most of the time. Many kinds
+bloom long before the earliest annuals are ready to begin the work of
+the season. Others are in their prime at midsummer, and later ones will
+give flowers until frost comes. If you read up the catalogues and
+familiarize yourself with the habits of the plants which the dealer
+offers for sale, you can make a selection that will keep the garden gay
+from May to November.
+
+On the ordinary home-lot there is not much choice allowed as to the
+location of the border. It must go to the sides of the lot if it starts
+in front of the house, or it may be located at the rear of the
+dwelling. On most grounds it will, after a little, occupy both of these
+positions, for it will outgrow its early limitations in a few years. You
+will be constantly adding to it, and thus it comes about that the border
+that _begins_ on each side of the lot will overflow to the rear.
+
+I would never advise locating it in front of the dwelling. Leave the
+lawn unbroken there. While there is not much opportunity for "effect" on
+small grounds, a departure from straight lines can always be made, and
+formality and primness be avoided to a considerable degree. Let the
+inner edge of the border curve, as shown in the illustration
+accompanying this chapter, and the result will be a hundredfold more
+pleasing than it would be if it were a straight line. Curves are always
+graceful, and indentations here and there enable you to secure new
+points of view that add vastly to the general effect. They make the
+border seem larger than it really is because only a portion of it is
+seen at the same time, as would not be the case if it were made up of
+straight rows of plants, with the same width throughout.
+
+By planting low-growing kinds in front, and backing them up with kinds
+of a taller growth, with the very tallest growers in the rear, the
+effect of a bank of flowers and foliage can be secured. This the
+illustration clearly shows.
+
+Shrubbery can be used in connection with perennials with most
+satisfactory results. This, as the reader will see, was done on the
+grounds from which the picture was taken. Here we have a combination
+which cannot fail to afford pleasure. I would not advise any home-maker
+to confine his border to plants of one class. Use shrubs and perennials
+together, and scatter annuals here and there, and have bulbs all along
+the border's edge.
+
+I want to call particular attention to one thing which the picture under
+consideration emphasizes very forcibly, and that is--the unstudied
+informality of it. It seems to have planned itself. It is like one of
+Nature's fence-corner bits of gardening.
+
+For use in the background we have several most excellent plants. The
+Delphinium--Larkspur--grows to a height of seven or eight feet, in rich
+soil, sending up a score or more of stout stalks from each strong clump
+of roots. Two or three feet of the upper part of these stalks will be
+solid with a mass of flowers of the richest, most intense blue
+imaginable. I know of no other flower of so deep and striking a shade
+of this rather rare color in the garden. In order to guard against
+injury from strong winds, stout stakes should be set about each clump,
+and wound with wire or substantial cord to prevent the flowering stalks
+from being broken down. There is a white variety, _Chinensis_, that is
+most effective when used in combination with the blue, which you will
+find catalogued as Delphinium _formosum_. If several strong clumps are
+grouped together, the effect will be magnificent when the plants are in
+full bloom. By cutting away the old stalks as soon as they have
+developed all their flowers, new ones can be coaxed to grow, and under
+this treatment the plants can be kept in bloom for many weeks.
+
+"Golden Glow" Rudbeckia is quite as strong a grower as the Delphinium,
+and a more prolific bloomer does not exist. It will literally cover
+itself with flowers of the richest golden yellow, resembling in shape
+and size those of the "decorative" type of Dahlia. This plant is a very
+strong grower, and so aggressive that it will dispute possession with
+any plant near it, and on this account it should never be given a place
+where it can interfere with choice varieties. Let it have its own way
+and it will crowd out even the grass of the lawn. Its proper place is
+in the extreme background, well to the rear, where distance will lend
+enchantment to the view. It must not be inferred from this that it is
+too coarse a flower to give a front place to. It belongs to the rear
+simply because of its aggressive qualities, and the intense effect of
+its strong, all-pervading color. You do not want a flower in the front
+row that, being given an inch, will straightway insist upon taking an
+ell. This the Rudbeckia will do, every time, if not promptly checked. It
+is an exceedingly valuable plant to cut from, as its flowers last for
+days, and light up a room like a great burst of strong sunshine.
+
+Hollyhocks must have a place in every border. Their stately habit,
+profusion of bloom, wonderful range and richness of color, and
+long-continued flowering period make them indispensable and favorites
+everywhere. They are most effective when grown in large masses or
+groups. If they are prevented from ripening seed, they will bloom
+throughout the greater part of the season. The single varieties are of
+the tallest, stateliest growth, therefore admirably adapted to back rows
+in the border. The double kinds work in well in front of them. These are
+the showiest members of the family because their flowers are so
+thickly set along the stalk that a stronger color-effect is given, but
+they are really no finer than the single sorts, so far as general effect
+is concerned. Indeed, I think I prefer the single kinds because the rich
+and peculiar markings of the individual flower show to much better
+advantage in them than in the doubles, whose multiplicity of petals
+hides this very pleasing variegation. But I would not care to go without
+either kind.
+
+[Illustration: OLD-FASHIONED HOLLYHOCKS]
+
+Coreopsis _lanceolata_ is a very charming plant for front rows,
+especially if it can have a place where it is given the benefit of
+contrast with a white flower, like the Daisy. In such a location its
+rich golden yellow comes out brilliantly, and makes a most effective
+point of color in the border.
+
+Perennial Phlox, all things considered, deserves a place very near to
+the head of the list of our very best hardy plants. Perhaps if a vote
+were taken, it would be elected as leader of its class in point of
+merit. It is so entirely hardy, so sturdy and self-reliant, so
+wonderfully floriferous, and so rich and varied in color that it is
+almost an ideal plant for border-use. It varies greatly in habit. Some
+varieties attain a height of five feet or more. Others are low
+growers,--almost dwarfs, in fact,--therefore well adapted to places
+in the very front row, and close to the path. The majority are of medium
+habit, fitting into the middle rows most effectively. With a little care
+in the selection of varieties--depending on the florists' catalogues to
+give us the height of each--it is an easy matter to arrange the various
+sorts in such a way as to form a bank which will be an almost solid mass
+of flowers for weeks. Some varieties have flowers of the purest white,
+and the colors of others range through many shades of pink, carmine,
+scarlet, and crimson, to lilac, mauve, and magenta. The three colors
+last named must never be planted alongside or near to the other colors,
+with the exception of white, as there can be no harmony between them.
+They make a color-discord so intense as to be positively painful to the
+eye that has keen color-sense. But combine them with the white kinds and
+they are among the loveliest of the lot. This Phlox ought always to be
+grouped, to be most effective, and white varieties should be used
+liberally to serve as a foil to the more brilliant colors and bring out
+their beauty most strikingly.
+
+[Illustration: THE PEONY AT ITS BEST]
+
+Peonies are superb flowers, and no border can afford to be without them.
+The varieties are almost endless, but you cannot have too many of
+them. Use them everywhere. The chances are that you will wish you had
+room for more. They bloom early, are magnificent in color and form, and
+are so prolific that old plants often bear a hundred or more flowers
+each season, and their profusion of bloom increases with age, as the
+plant gains in size. Many varieties are as fragrant as a Rose, and all
+of them are as hardy as a plant can well be. What more need be said in
+their favor?
+
+In order to attain the highest degree of success with the Peony, it
+should be given a rather heavy soil, and manure should be used with
+great liberality. In fact it is hardly possible to make the soil too
+rich to suit it. Disturb the roots as little as possible. The plant is
+very sensitive to any treatment that affects the root, and taking away a
+"toe" for a neighbor will often result in its failure to bloom next
+season. Keep the grass from crowding it. Year after year it will spread
+its branches farther and wider, and there will be more of them, and its
+flowers will be larger and finer each season, if the soil is kept rich.
+I know of old clumps that have a spread of six feet or more, sending up
+hundreds of stalks from matted roots that have not been disturbed for no
+one knows how long, on which blossoms can be counted by the hundreds
+every spring.
+
+Dicentra, better known as "Bleeding Heart," because of its pendulous,
+heart-shaped flowers, is a most lovely early bloomer. It is an excellent
+plant for the front row of the border. It sends up a great number of
+flowering stalks, two and three feet in length, all curving gracefully
+outward from the crown of the plant. These bear beautiful
+foliage--indeed, the plant would be well worth growing for this
+alone--and each stalk is terminated with a raceme of pink and white
+blossoms. It is difficult to imagine anything lovelier or more graceful
+than this plant, when in full bloom.
+
+The Aquilegia ought to be given a place in all collections. It comes in
+blue, white, yellow, and red. Some varieties are single, others double,
+and all beautiful. This is one of our early bloomers. It should be grown
+in clumps, near the front row.
+
+[Illustration: A BIT OF THE BORDER OF PERENNIAL PLANTS]
+
+The Iris is to the garden what the Orchid is to the greenhouse. Its
+colors are of the richest--blue, purple, violet, yellow, white, and
+gray. It blooms in great profusion, for weeks during the early part of
+summer. It is a magnificent flower. It will be found most effective when
+grouped, but it can be scattered about the border in such a way as to
+produce charming results if one is careful to plant it among plants
+whose flowers harmonize with the different varieties in color.
+Color-harmony is as important in the hardy border as in any other part
+of the garden, and no plant should be put out until you are sure of the
+effect it will produce upon other plants in its immediate neighborhood.
+Find the proper place for it before you give it a permanent location.
+The term, "proper place," has as much reference to color as to size. A
+plant that introduces color-discord is as much out of place as is the
+plant whose size makes it a candidate for a position in the rear when it
+is given a place in the immediate foreground.
+
+Pyrethrum _uliginosum_ is a wonderfully free bloomer, growing to a
+height of three or four feet, therefore well adapted to the middle rows
+of the border. It blooms during the latter part of summer. It is often
+called the "Giant Daisy," and the name is very appropriate, as it is the
+common Daisy, to all intents and purposes, on a large scale.
+
+The small white Daisy, of lower growth, is equally desirable for
+front-row locations. It is a most excellent plant, blooming early in
+the season, and throughout the greater part of summer, and well into
+autumn if the old flower-stalks are cut away in September, to encourage
+new growth. It is a stand-by for cut flowers for bouquet work. Because
+of its compact habit it is a very desirable plant for edging the border.
+
+It is difficult to imagine anything more daintily charming than the
+herbaceous Spireas. _Alba_, white, and _rosea_, soft pink, produce
+large, feathery tufts of bloom on stalks six and seven feet tall. The
+flowers of these varieties are exceedingly graceful in an airy,
+cloud-like way, and never fail to attract the attention of those who
+pass ordinary plants by without seeing them.
+
+The florists have taken our native Asters in hand, and we now have
+several varieties that make themselves perfectly at home in the border.
+Some of them grow to a height of eight feet. Others are low growers. The
+rosy-violet kinds and the pale lavender-blues are indescribably lovely.
+Nearly all of them bloom very late in the season. Their long branches
+will be a mass of flowers with fringy petals and a yellow centre. These
+plants have captured the charm of the Indian Summer and brought it into
+the garden, where they keep it prisoner during the last days of the
+season. By all means give them a place in your collection. And it will
+add to the effect if you plant alongside them a few clumps of their
+sturdy, faithful old companion of the roadside and pasture, the Golden
+Rod.
+
+It hardly seems necessary for me to give a detailed description of all
+the plants deserving a place in the border. The list would be too long
+if I were to attempt to do so. You will find all the really desirable
+kinds quite fully described in the catalogues of the leading dealers in
+plants. Information as to color, size, and time of flowering is given
+there, and you can select to suit your taste, feeling confident that you
+will be well satisfied with the result.
+
+Just a few words of advice, in conclusion:
+
+Don't crowd your plants.
+
+Allow for development.
+
+Don't try to have a little of everything.
+
+Don't overlook the old-fashioned kinds simply because they happen to be
+old. That proves that they have merit.
+
+Keep the ground between them clean and open.
+
+Manure well each spring.
+
+Stir the soil occasionally during the season.
+
+Prevent the formation of seed.
+
+Once in three or four years divide the old clumps, and discard all but
+the strongest, healthiest portions of the roots. Reset in rich, mellow
+soil. Do this while the plants are at a standstill, early in spring, or
+in fall, after the work of the season is over.
+
+
+
+
+THE GARDEN OF ANNUALS
+
+
+In preparing the garden for annuals, the first thing to do is to spade
+up the soil. This can be done shortly after the frost is out of the
+ground. This is about all that can be done to advantage, at this time,
+as the ground must be allowed to remain as it comes from the spade until
+the combined effect of sun and air has put it into a condition that will
+make it an easy matter to reduce it to proper mellowness with the hoe or
+iron rake.
+
+Right here let me say: Most of us, in the enthusiasm which takes
+possession of us when spring comes, are inclined to rush matters. We
+spade up the soil, and immediately attempt to pulverize it, and of
+course fail in the attempt, because it is not in a proper condition to
+pulverize. We may succeed in breaking it up into little clods, but that
+is not what needs doing. It must be made fine, and mellow,--not a lump
+left in it,--and this can only be done well after the elements have had
+an opportunity to do their work on it. When one comes to think about
+it, there is no need of hurry, for it is not safe to sow seed in the
+ground at the north until the weather becomes warm and settled, and that
+will not be before the first of May, in a very favorable season, and
+generally not earlier than the middle of the month. This being the case,
+be content to leave the soil to the mellowing influences of the weather
+until seed-sowing time is at hand. _Then_ go to work and get your garden
+ready.
+
+If the soil is not rich, apply manure from the barnyard or its
+substitute in the shape of some reliable fertilizer.
+
+Do this before you set about the pulverization of the soil. Then go to
+work with hoe and rake, and reduce it to the last possible degree of
+fineness, working the fertilizer you make use of into it in such a
+manner that both are perfectly blended.
+
+There is no danger of overdoing matters in this part of garden-work. The
+finer the soil is the surer you may be of the germination of the seed
+you put into it. Fine seed often fails to grow in a coarse and lumpy
+soil.
+
+In sowing seed, make a distinction between the very fine and that of
+ordinary size. Fine seed should be scattered on the surface, and no
+attempt made to cover it. Simply press down the soil upon which you have
+scattered it with a smooth board. This will make it firm enough to
+retain the moisture required to bring about germination.
+
+Larger seed can be sown on the surface, and afterward covered by sifting
+a slight covering of fine soil over it. Then press with the board to
+make it firm.
+
+Large seed, like that of the Sweet Pea, Four-o'-Clock, and Ricinus,
+should be covered to the depth of half an inch.
+
+I always advise sowing seed in the beds where the plants are to grow,
+instead of starting it in pots and boxes, in the house, early in the
+season, under the impression that by so doing you are going to "get the
+start of the season." In ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, plants from
+seed sown in the house will be so weak in vital force that they cannot
+stand the change which comes when they are transplanted to the open
+ground. In the majority of cases, there will be none to transplant, for
+seedlings grown under living-room conditions generally die before the
+time comes when it is safe to put them out of doors. Should there be any
+to put out, they will be so weak that plants from seed sown in the
+beds, at that time, will invariably get the start of them, and these are
+sure to make the best plants. A person must be an expert in order to
+make a success of plant-growing from seed, in the house, in spring.
+There will be too much heat, too little fresh air, too great a lack of
+moisture in the atmosphere, and often a lack of proper attention in the
+way of watering, and unless these matters can be properly regulated it
+is useless to expect success. Knowing what the result is almost sure to
+be, I discourage the amateur gardener from attempting to grow his own
+seedlings under these conditions. If early plants are desired, buy them
+of the florists whose facilities for growing them are such that they can
+send out strong and healthy stock.
+
+Do not sow the seeds of tender plants until you are quite sure that the
+danger from cold nights is over. It is hardly safe to put any kind of
+seed into the ground before the middle of May, at the north.
+
+If we wait until all conditions are favorable, the young plants will get
+a good start and go steadily ahead, and distance those from seed sown
+before the soil had become warm or the weather settled. Haste often
+makes waste. If the soil is cold and damp seed often fails to germinate
+in it, and this obliges you to buy more seed, and all your labor goes
+for naught.
+
+To the method and time of planting advised above, there is one
+exception--that of the Sweet Pea. This should go into the ground as soon
+as possible in spring. For this reason: This plant likes to get a good
+root-growth before the warm weather of summer comes. With such a growth
+it is ready for flowering early in the season, and no time is wasted.
+Dig a V-shaped trench six inches deep. Sow the seed thickly. It ought
+not to be more than an inch apart, and if closer no harm will be done.
+Cover to the depth of an inch, at time of sowing, tramping the soil down
+firmly. When the young plants have grown to be two or three inches tall,
+draw in more of the soil, and keep on doing this from time to time, as
+the seedlings reach up, until all the soil from the trench has been
+returned to it. This method gives us plants with roots deep enough in
+the soil to make sure of sufficient moisture in a dry season. It also
+insures coolness at the root, a condition quite necessary to the
+successful culture of this favorite flower.
+
+Weeds will generally put in an appearance before the flowering plants
+do. As soon as you can tell "which is which" the work of weeding must
+begin. At this stage, hand-pulling will have to be depended on. But a
+little later, when the flowering plants have made an inch or two of
+growth, weeding by hand should be abandoned. Provide yourself with a
+weeding-hook--a little tool with claw-shaped teeth--with which you can
+uproot more weeds in an hour than you can in all day by hand, and the
+work will be done in a superior manner as the teeth of the little tool
+stir the surface of the soil just enough to keep it light and open--a
+condition that is highly favorable to the healthy development of young
+plants. I have never yet seen a person who liked to pull weeds by hand.
+Gardens are often neglected because of the dislike of their owners for
+this disagreeable task. The use of the weeding-hook does away with the
+drudgery, and makes really pleasant work of the fight with weeds.
+
+If seedlings are to be transplanted, do it after sundown or on a cloudy
+day. Lift the tender plants as carefully as possible, and aim to not
+expose their delicate roots. Get the place in which you propose to plant
+them ready before you lift them, and then set them out immediately. Make
+a hole as deep as their roots are long, drop the plants into it, and
+press the soil firmly about them with thumb and finger. It may be well
+to water them if the season is a dry one. Shade them next day, and
+continue to do so until they show that they have made new feeding roots
+by beginning to grow. I make use of a "shader" that I have "evolved from
+my inner consciousness" that gives better satisfaction than anything
+else I have ever tried. I cut thick brown paper into circular shape,
+eight inches across. Then I cut out a quarter of it, and bring the edges
+of this cut together, and run a stick or wire through them to hold them
+together. This stick or wire should be about ten inches long, as the
+lower end of it must go into the soil. When my "shader" is ready for use
+it has some resemblance to a paper umbrella with a handle at one side
+instead of in the middle. This handle is inserted in the soil close to
+the plant, and the "umbrella" shades it most effectively, and does this
+without interfering with a free circulation of air, which is a matter of
+great importance.
+
+If thorough work in the way of weeding is done at the beginning of the
+season, it will be an easy matter to keep the upper hand of the enemy
+later on. But if you allow the weeds to get the start of you, you will
+have to do some hard fighting to gain the supremacy which ought never to
+have been relinquished. After a little, the hoe can be used to
+advantage. If the season happens to be a dry one, do not allow the soil
+to become hard, and caked on the surface, under the impression that it
+will not be safe to stir it because of the drouth. A soil that is kept
+light and open will absorb all the moisture there is in the air, while
+one whose surface is crusted over cannot do this, therefore plants
+growing in it suffer far more than those do in the soil that is stirred
+constantly. Aim to get all possible benefit from dews and slight showers
+by keeping the soil in such a sponge-like condition that it can take
+advantage of them.
+
+It is a good plan to use the grass-clippings from the lawn as a mulch
+about your plants in hot, dry weather.
+
+Do not begin to water plants in a dry season unless you can keep up the
+practice. Better let them take the chances of pulling through without
+the application than to give it for a short time and then abandon it
+because of the magnitude of the task.
+
+Furnish racks and trellises for such plants as need them as soon as they
+are needed. Many a good plant is spoiled by neglecting to give attention
+to its requirements at the proper time.
+
+Make it a rule to go over the garden at least twice a week, after the
+flowering season sets in, and cut away all faded flowers. If this is
+done, no seed will come to development, and the strength of the plants
+will be expended in the production of other flowers. By keeping up this
+practice through the season, it is possible to keep most of them
+blossoming until late in the summer, as they will endeavor to perpetuate
+themselves by the production of seed, and the first step in this process
+is the production of flowers.
+
+What flowers would you advise us to grow? many readers of this chapter
+will be sure to ask, after having read what I have said above about the
+garden of annuals.
+
+In answering this question here, it will be necessary, in a measure, to
+repeat what has been, or will be, said in other chapters, where various
+phases of gardening are treated. But the question is one that should be
+answered in this connection, at the risk of repetition, in order to
+fully cover the subject now under consideration.
+
+There are so many kinds of flowers offered by the seedsmen that it is a
+difficult matter to decide between them, when all are so good. But no
+one garden is large enough to contain them all. Were one to attempt the
+cultivation of all he would be obliged to put in all his time at the
+work, and the services of an assistant would be needed, besides. Even
+then the chances are that the work would be done in a superficial
+fashion. Therefore I shall mention only such kinds as I consider the
+very best of the lot for general use, adding this advice:
+
+Don't attempt too much. A few good kinds, well grown, will afford a
+great deal more pleasure than a great many kinds only half grown.
+
+This list is made up of such kinds as can properly be classed as
+"stand-bys," kinds which any amateur gardener can be reasonably sure of
+success with if the instructions given in this chapter are carefully
+followed.
+
+_Alyssum._--Commonly called Sweet Alyssum, because of its pleasing
+fragrance. Of low growth. Very effective as an edging. Most profuse and
+constant bloomer.
+
+_Aster._--This annual disputes popularity with the Sweet Pea. Very many
+persons would prefer it to any other because of its sturdy habit, ease
+of culture, profusion of bloom, and great variety of color. It is one of
+the indispensables.
+
+_Antirrhinum_ (Snapdragon).--Plant of profuse flowering habit. Flowers
+of peculiar shape, mostly in rich colors. Very satisfactory for autumn.
+
+[Illustration: A BED OF ASTERS]
+
+_Balsam._--Splendid plant for summer flowering, coming in many colors,
+some of these exceedingly delicate and beautiful. Flowers like small
+Roses, very double, and set so thickly along the stalks that each branch
+seems like a wreath of bloom. It is often necessary to trim off many of
+the leaves in order to give the blossoms a chance to display themselves.
+Some varieties are charmingly variegated. Being quite tender it should
+not be sown until one is sure of warm weather.
+
+_Calliopsis_ (Coreopsis).--A very showy plant, with rich yellow flowers,
+marked with brown, maroon and scarlet at the base of the petal. A most
+excellent plant where great masses of color are desired. Fine for
+combining with scarlet and other strong-toned flowers. An all-the-season
+bloomer.
+
+_Candytuft._--A free and constant bloomer, of low habit. Very useful for
+edging beds and borders. Comes in pure white and purplish red.
+
+_Celosia_ (Cockscomb).--A plant with most peculiar flowers. What we
+_call_ the flower is really a collection of hundreds of tiny individual
+blossoms set so close together that they seem to compose one large
+blossom. The prevailing color is a bright scarlet, but we have some
+varieties in pink and pale yellow. Sure to please.
+
+_Cosmos._--A plant of wonderfully free flowering habit. Flowers mostly
+pink, white, and lilac. A tall grower, branching freely, therefore well
+adapted to back rows, or massing. Foliage fine and feathery. Excellent
+for cutting. One of our most desirable fall bloomers. We have an early
+Cosmos of rather dwarf habit, but the large-growing late varieties are
+far more satisfactory. It may be necessary to cover the plants at night
+when the frosts of middle and late September are due, as they will be
+severely injured by even the slightest touch of frost. Well worth all
+the care required.
+
+_Four-o'-Clock_ (Marvel of Peru--Mirabilis).--A good, old-fashioned
+flower that has the peculiarity of opening its trumpet-shaped blossoms
+late in the afternoon. Bushy, well branched, and adapted to border use
+as a "filler."
+
+_Escholtzia_ (California Poppy).--One of the showiest flowers in the
+entire list. A bed of it will be a sheet of richest golden yellow for
+many weeks.
+
+_Gaillardia_ (Blanket-flower).--A profuse and constant bloomer, of rich
+and striking color-combinations. Yellow, brown, crimson, and maroon.
+Most effective when massed.
+
+_Gypsophila_ (Baby's Breath).--A plant of great daintiness, both in
+foliage and flowers. Always in demand for cut-flower work. White and
+pink.
+
+_Kochia_ (Burning Bush--Mexican Fire-plant).--A very desirable plant, of
+symmetrical, compact habit. Rich green throughout the summer, but
+turning to dark red in fall. Fine for low hedges and for scattering
+through the border wherever there happens to be a vacancy.
+
+_Larkspur._--Another old-fashioned flower of decided merit.
+
+_Marigold._--An old favorite that richly deserves a place in all gardens
+because of its rich colors, free blooming qualities and ease of culture.
+
+_Nasturtium._--Too well known to need description here. Everybody ought
+to grow it. Unsurpassed in garden decoration and equally as valuable for
+cutting. Blooms throughout the entire season. Does well in a rather poor
+soil. In a very rich soil it makes a great growth of branches at the
+expense of blossoms.
+
+_Pansy._--Not an annual, but generally treated as such. A universal
+favorite that almost everybody grows. If flowers of a particular color
+are desired I would advise buying blooming seedlings from the florist,
+as one can never tell what he is going to get if he depends on seed of
+his own sowing. The flowers will be as fine as those from selected
+varieties, but there will be such a medley of colors that one sometimes
+tires of the effect. I have always received the most pleasure from
+planting distinct colors, like the yellows, the blues, the whites, and
+the purples, and the only way in which I can make sure of getting just
+the colors I want is to tell the florist about them, and instruct him to
+send me those colors when his seedlings come into bloom.
+
+_Petunia._--Another of the "stand-bys." A plant that can always be
+depended on. Very free bloomer, very profuse, and very showy. If the old
+plants that have blossomed through the summer begin to look ragged and
+unsightly, cut away the entire top. In a short time new shoots will be
+sent out from the stump of the old plant, and almost before you know it
+the plant will have renewed itself, and be blooming as freely as when it
+was young. Fine for massing.
+
+_Phlox Drummondi._--One of our most satisfactory annuals. Any one can
+grow it. It begins to bloom when small, and improves with age. Comes in
+a wide range of colors, some brilliant, others delicate--all beautiful.
+Charming effects are easily secured by planting the pale rose, pure
+white, and soft yellow varieties together, either in rows or circles.
+The contrast will be fine, and the harmony perfect. Other colors are
+desirable, but they do not all combine well. It is a good plan to use
+white varieties freely, as these heighten the effect of the strong
+colors. I always buy seed in which each color is by itself, as a mixture
+of red, crimson, lilac, and violet in the same bed is never pleasing to
+me.
+
+_Poppy._--Brilliant and beautiful. Unrivalled for midsummer show. As
+this plant is of little value after its early flowering period is over,
+other annuals can be planted in the bed with it, to take its place. Set
+these plants about the middle of July, and when they begin to bloom pull
+up the Poppies. The Shirley strain includes some of the loveliest colors
+imaginable. Its flowers have petals that seem cut from satin. The
+large-flowered varieties are quite as ornamental as Peonies, as long as
+they last.
+
+_Portulacca._--Low grower, spreading until the surface of the bed is
+covered with the dark green carpet of its peculiar foliage. Flowers both
+single and double, of a great variety of colors. Does well in hot
+locations, and in poor soil. Of the easiest culture.
+
+_Scabiosa._--Very fine. Especially for cutting. Colors dark purple,
+maroon, and white.
+
+_Salpiglossis._--A free-blooming plant, of very brilliant coloring and
+striking variegation. Really freakish in its peculiar markings.
+
+_Stock_ (Gillyflower).--A plant of great merit. Flowers of the double
+varieties are like miniature Roses, in spikes. Very fragrant. Fine for
+cutting. Blooms until frost comes. Red, pink, purple, white, and pale
+yellow. The single varieties are not desirable, and as soon as a
+seedling plant shows single flowers, pull it up.
+
+_Sweet Pea._--This grand flower needs no description. It is one of the
+plants we _must_ have.
+
+_Verbena._--Old, but none the worse for that. A free and constant
+bloomer, of rich and varied coloring. Habit low and spreading. One of
+the best plants we have for low beds, under the sitting-room windows.
+Keep the faded flowers cut off, and at midsummer cut away most of the
+old branches, and allow the plant to renew itself, as advised in the
+case of the Petunia.
+
+_Wallflower._--Not as much grown as it ought to be. Delightfully
+fragrant. Color rich brown and tawny yellow. General habit similar to
+that of Stock, of which it is a near relative. Late bloomer. Give it one
+season's trial and you will be delighted with it. Not as showy as most
+flowers, but quite as beautiful, and the peer of any of them in
+sweetness.
+
+_Zinnia._--A robust plant of the easiest possible culture. Any one can
+grow it, and it will do well anywhere. Grows to a height of three feet
+or more, branches freely, and close to the ground, and forms a dense,
+compact bush. On this account very useful for hedge purposes.
+Exceedingly profuse in its production of flowers. Blooms till frost
+comes. Comes in almost all the colors of the rainbow.
+
+Because I have advised the amateur gardener to make his selection from
+the above list, it must not be understood that those of which I have not
+made mention, but which will be found described in the catalogues of the
+florist, are not desirable. Many of them might please the reader quite
+as well, and possibly more, than any of the kinds I have spoken of. But
+most of them will require a treatment which the beginner in gardening
+will not be able to give them, and, on that account, I do not include
+them in my list. After a year or two's experience in gardening, the
+amateur will be justified in attempting their culture--which, after all,
+is not difficult if one has time to give them special attention and a
+sufficient amount of care. The kinds I have advised are such as
+virtually take care of themselves, after they get well under way, if
+weeds are kept away from them. They are the kinds for "everybody's
+garden."
+
+Let me add, in concluding this chapter, that it is wisdom on the part of
+the amateur to select not more than a dozen of the kinds that appeal
+most forcibly to him, and concentrate his attention on them. Aim to grow
+them to perfection by giving them the best of care. A garden of
+well-grown plants, though limited in variety, will afford a hundredfold
+more pleasure to the owner of it than a garden containing a little of
+everything, and nothing well grown.
+
+In purchasing seed, patronize a dealer whose reputation for honesty and
+reliability is such that he would not dare to send out anything inferior
+if he were inclined to do so. There are many firms that advertise the
+best of seed at very low prices. Look out for them. I happen to know
+that our old and most reputable seedsmen make only a reasonable profit
+on the seed they sell. Other dealers who cut under in price can only
+afford to do so because they do not exercise the care and attention
+which the reliable seedsman does in growing his stock, hence their
+expenses are less. Cheap seed will be found cheap in all senses of the
+term.
+
+I want to lay special emphasis on the advisability of purchasing seed
+in which each color is by itself. The objection is often urged that one
+person seldom cares to use as many plants of one color as can be grown
+from a package of seed. This difficulty is easily disposed of. Club with
+your neighbors, and divide the seed between you when it comes. In this
+way you will secure the most satisfactory results and pay no more for
+your seed than you would if you were to buy "mixed" packages. Grow
+colors separately for a season and I am quite sure you will never go
+back to mixed seed.
+
+
+
+
+THE BULB GARDEN
+
+
+Every lover of flowers should have a garden of bulbs, for three reasons:
+First, they bloom so early in the season that one can have flowers at
+least six weeks longer than it is possible to have them if only
+perennial and annual plants are depended on. Some bulbs come into bloom
+as soon as the snow is gone, at the north, to be followed by those of
+later habit, and a constant succession of bloom can be secured by a
+judicious selection of varieties, thus completely tiding over the
+usually flowerless period between the going of winter and the coming of
+the earlier spring flowers. Second, they require but little care, much
+less than the ordinary plant. Give them a good soil to grow in, and keep
+weeds and grass from encroaching on them, and they will ask no other
+attention from you, except when, because of a multiplication of bulbs,
+they need to be separated and reset, which will be about every third
+year. The work required in doing this is no more than that involved in
+spading up a bed for annual flowers. Third, they are so hardy, even at
+the extreme north, that one can be sure of bloom from them if they are
+given a good covering in fall, which is a very easy matter to do.
+
+For richness and variety of color this class of plants stands
+unrivalled. The bulb garden is more brilliant than the garden of annuals
+which succeeds it.
+
+September is the proper month in which to make the bulb garden.
+
+As a general thing, persons fail to plant their bulbs until October and
+often November, thinking the time of planting makes very little
+difference so long as they are put into the ground before winter sets
+in. Here is where a serious mistake is made. Early planting should
+always be the rule,--for this reason: Bulbs make their annual growth
+immediately after flowering, and ripen off by midsummer. After this,
+they remain dormant until fall, when new root-growth takes place, and
+the plant gets ready for the work that will be demanded of it as soon as
+spring opens. It is made during the months of October and November, if
+cold weather does not set in earlier, and should be fully completed
+before the ground freezes. If incomplete--as is always the case when
+late planting is done--the plants are obliged to do--or attempt to
+do--double duty in spring. That is, the completion of the work left
+undone in fall and the production of flowers must go on at the same
+time, and this is asking too much of the plant. It cannot produce fine,
+perfect flowers with a poorly-developed root-system to supply the
+strength and nutriment needed for such a task, therefore the plants are
+not in a condition to do themselves justice. Often late-planted bulbs
+fail to produce any flowers, and, in most instances, the few flowers
+they do give are small and inferior in all respects.
+
+With early-planted bulbs it is quite different, because they had all the
+late fall-season to complete root-growth in, and when winter closed in
+it found them ready for the work of spring.
+
+Therefore, do not neglect the making of your bulb garden until winter is
+at hand under the impression that if the bulbs are planted any time
+before snow comes, all is well. This is the worst mistake you could
+possibly make.
+
+The catalogues of the bulb-dealers will be sent out about the first of
+September. Send in your order for the kinds you decide on planting at
+once, and as soon as your order has gone, set about preparing the place
+in which you propose to plant them. Have everything in readiness for
+them when they arrive, and put them into the ground as soon after they
+are received as possible.
+
+The soil in which bulbs should be planted cannot be too carefully
+prepared, as much of one's success with these plants depends upon this
+most important item. It must be rich, and it must be fine and mellow.
+
+The best soil in which to set bulbs is a sandy loam.
+
+The best fertilizer is old, thoroughly rotted cow-manure. On no account
+should fresh manure be used. Make use, if possible, of that which is
+black from decomposition, and will crumble readily under the application
+of the hoe, or iron rake. One-third in bulk of this material is not too
+much. Bulbs are great eaters, and unless they are well fed you cannot
+expect large crops of fine flowers from them. And they must be well
+supplied with nutritious food each year, because the crop of next season
+depends largely upon the nutriment stored up this season.
+
+If barnyard manure is not obtainable, substitute bonemeal. Use the fine
+meal, in the proportion of a pound to each yard square of surface. More,
+if the soil happens to be a poor one. If the soil is heavy with clay,
+add sand enough to lighten it, if possible.
+
+The ideal location for bulbs is one that is naturally well drained, and
+has a slope to the south.
+
+Unless drainage is good success cannot be expected, as nothing injures a
+bulb more than water about its roots. Therefore, if you do not have a
+place suitable for them so far as natural drainage is concerned, see to
+it that artificial drainage supplies what is lacking. Spade up the bed
+to the depth of a foot and a half. That is--throw the soil out of it to
+that depth,--and put into the bottom of the excavation at least four
+inches of material that will not decay readily, like broken brick,
+pottery, clinkers from the coal-stove, coarse gravel--anything that will
+be permanent and allow water to run off through the cracks and crevices
+in it, thus securing a system of drainage that will answer all purposes
+perfectly. It is of the utmost importance that this should be done on
+all heavy soils. Unless the water from melting snows and early spring
+rains drains away from the bulbs readily you need not expect flowers
+from them.
+
+After having arranged for drainage, work over the soil thrown out of the
+bed until it is as fine and mellow as it can possibly be made. Mix
+whatever fertilizer you make use of with it, when you do this, that the
+two may be thoroughly incorporated. Then return it to the bed. There
+will be more than enough to fill the bed, because some space is given up
+to drainage material, but this will be an advantage because it will
+enable you to so round up the surface that water will run off before it
+has time to soak into the soil to much depth.
+
+I do not think it advisable to say much about plans for bulb-beds,
+because comparatively few persons seem inclined to follow instructions
+along this line. The less formal a bed of this kind is the better
+satisfaction it will give, as a general thing. It is the flower that is
+in the bed that should be depended on to give pleasure rather than the
+shape of the bed containing it.
+
+I would advise locating bulb-beds near the house where they can be
+easily seen from the living-room windows. These beds can be utilized
+later on for annuals, which can be sown or planted above the bulbs
+without interfering with them in any respect.
+
+I would never advise mixing bulbs. By that, I mean, planting Tulips,
+Hyacinths, Daffodils, and other kinds in the same bed. They will not
+harmonize in color or habit. Each kind will be found vastly more
+pleasing when kept by itself.
+
+I would also advise keeping each color by itself, unless you are sure
+that harmony will result from a mixture or combination of colors. Pink
+and white, blue and white, and red and white Hyacinths look well when
+planted together, but a jumble of pinks, blues, and reds is never as
+pleasing as the same colors would be separately, or where each color is
+relieved by white.
+
+The same rule applies to Tulips, with equal force.
+
+We often see pleasing effects that have been secured by planting reds
+and blues in rows, alternating with rows of white. This method keeps the
+quarrelsome colors apart, and affords sufficient contrast to heighten
+the general effect. Still, there is a formality about it which is not
+entirely satisfactory to the person who believes that the flower is of
+first importance, and the shape of the bed, or the arrangement of the
+flowers in the bed, is a matter of secondary consideration.
+
+Bulbs should be put into the ground as soon as possible after being
+taken from the package in which they are sent out by the florist. If
+exposed to the light and air for any length of time they part rapidly
+with the moisture contained in their scales, and that means a loss of
+vitality. If it is not convenient to plant them at once, leave them in
+the package, or put them in some cool, dark place until you are ready to
+use them.
+
+As a rule Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissus should be planted about five
+inches deep, and about six inches apart.
+
+The smaller bulbs should be put from three to four inches below the
+surface and about the same distance apart.
+
+In planting, make a hole with a blunt stick of the depth desired, and
+drop the bulb into it. Then cover, and press the soil down firmly.
+
+Just before the ground is likely to freeze, cover the bed with a coarse
+litter from the barnyard, if obtainable, to a depth of eight or ten
+inches. If this litter is not to be had, hay or straw will answer very
+well, if packed down somewhat. Leaves make an excellent covering if one
+can get enough of them. If they are used, four inches in depth of them
+will be sufficient. Put evergreen boughs or wire netting over them to
+prevent their being blown away.
+
+I frequently receive letters from inexperienced bulb-growers, in which
+the writers express considerable scepticism about the value of such a
+covering as I have advised above, because, they say, it is not deep
+enough to keep out the frost, therefore it might as well be dispensed
+with. Keeping out the frost is not what is aimed at. We expect the soil
+about the bulbs to freeze. But such a covering as has been advised will
+prevent the sun from thawing out the frost after it gets into the soil,
+and this is exactly what we desire. For if the frost can be kept in,
+after it has taken possession, there will not be that frequent
+alternation between freezing and thawing which does the harm to the
+plant. For it is not freezing, understand, that is responsible for the
+mischief, but the _alternation of conditions_. These cause a rupture of
+plant-cells, and that is what does the harm. Keep a comparatively tender
+plant frozen all winter and allow the frost to be drawn out of it
+gradually in spring, and it will survive a season of unusual cold. The
+same plant will be sure to die in a mild season if left exposed to the
+action of the elements, because of frequent and rapid changes between
+heat and cold.
+
+Whatever covering is given should be left on the beds as long as
+possible in spring, because of the severely cold weather we frequently
+have at the north after we think all danger is over. However, as soon as
+the plants begin to make much growth, this covering will have to be
+removed. If a cold night comes along after this has been done spread
+blankets or carpeting over the beds. Keep them from resting on the
+tender growth of the plants by driving pegs into the soil a short
+distance apart, all over the bed. The young plants may not be killed by
+quite a severe freeze, but they will be injured by it, and injury of any
+kind should be guarded against at this season, if you want fine flowers.
+
+[Illustration: BED OF WHITE HYACINTHS BORDERED WITH PANSIES]
+
+Holland Hyacinths should receive first consideration, because they are
+less likely to disappoint than any other hardy bulb. There are single
+and double kinds, both desirable. Personally I prefer the single sorts,
+as they are less prim and formal than the double varieties, whose
+flowers are so thickly set along the stalk that individuality of bloom
+is almost wholly lost sight of. They are, in this respect, like the
+double Geraniums we use in summer bedding, whose trusses of bloom
+resemble a ball of color more than anything else, at a little distance,
+the suggestion of individual bloom being so slight that it seldom
+receives consideration. However, they do good service where
+color-effects are considered of more importance than anything else.
+Single Hyacinths have their flowers more loosely arranged along the
+stalk, and are therefore more graceful than the double varieties, and
+their colors are quite as fine. These range from pure white through
+pale pink and rose, red, scarlet, crimson, blue and charming yellows to
+dark purple.
+
+Roman Hyacinths are too tender for outdoor culture at the north.
+
+There are several quite distinct varieties of the Tulip. There is an
+early sort, a medium one, a late one, and the Parrot, which is prized
+more for its striking combinations of brilliant colors than for its
+beauty of form or habit. We have single and double varieties in all the
+classes, all coming in a wide range of both rich and delicate colors.
+Scarlets, crimsons, and yellows predominate, but the pure whites, the
+pale rose-colors, and the rich purples are general favorites. Some of
+the variegated varieties are exceedingly brilliant in their striking
+color-combinations.
+
+The Narcissus is one of the loveliest flowers we have. It deserves a
+place very near, if not quite at, the head of the list of our best
+spring-blooming plants. Nothing can be richer in color than the large
+double sorts, like _Horsfieldii_, and _Empress_, with their petals of
+burnished gold. There are many other varieties equally as fine, but with
+a little difference in the way of color--just enough to make one want to
+have all of them. The good old-fashioned Daffodil is an honored member
+of the family that should be found in every garden. When you see the
+Dandelion's gleam of gold in the grass by the wayside you get a good
+idea of the brilliant display a fine collection of Narcissus is capable
+of making, for in richness of color these two flowers are almost
+identical.
+
+Among the smaller bulbs that deserve special mention are the Crocus, the
+Snow Drop, the Scilla, and the Musk or Grape Hyacinth. These should be
+planted in groups, to be most effective, and set close together. They
+must be used in large quantities to produce much of a show. They are
+very cheap, and a good-sized collection can be had for a small amount of
+money.
+
+Those who have a liking for special colors will do well to make their
+selections from the named varieties listed in the catalogues. You can
+depend on getting just the color you want, if you order in this way. But
+in no other way. Mixed collection will give you some of all colors, but
+there is no way of telling "which is which" until they come into bloom.
+
+But in mixed collections you will get just as fine bulbs and just as
+fine colors as you will if you select from the list of named varieties.
+Only--you won't know what you are getting. Named sorts will cost
+considerable more than the mixtures.
+
+
+
+
+THE ROSE: ITS GENERAL CARE AND CULTURE
+
+
+The owner of every garden tries to grow roses in it, but where one
+succeeds, ten fail. Perhaps I would be safe in saying that ninety-nine
+out of every hundred fail, for a few inferior blossoms from a plant,
+each season, do not constitute success, but that is what the majority of
+amateur Rose-growers have to be satisfied with, the country over, and so
+great is their admiration for this most beautiful of all flowers that
+these few blossoms encourage them to keep on, season after season,
+hoping for better things, and consoling themselves with the thought
+that, though results fall short of expectation, they are doing about as
+well as their neighbors in this particular phase of gardening.
+
+One does not have to seek far for the causes of failure. The Rose, while
+it is common everywhere, and has been in cultivation for centuries, is
+not understood by the rank and file of those who attempt to grow it,
+therefore it is not given the treatment it deserves, _and which it must
+have,_ in order to achieve success in its culture. When we come to know
+its requirements, and give it proper care, we can grow fine Roses, but
+not till then. Those who form an opinion of the possibilities of the
+plant from the specimens which they see growing in the average garden
+have yet to find out what a really fine Rose is.
+
+The Rose is the flower of romance and sentiment throughout the lands in
+which it grows, but, for all that, it is not a sentimental flower in
+many respects. It is a vegetable epicure. It likes rich food, and great
+quantities of it. Unless it can be gratified in this respect it will
+refuse to give you the large, fine flowers which every Rose-grower,
+professional or amateur, is constantly striving after. But feed it
+according to its liking and it will give you perfect flowers in great
+quantities, season after season, and _then_ you will understand what
+this plant can do when given an opportunity to do itself justice.
+
+The Rose will live on indefinitely in almost any soil, and under almost
+any conditions. I have frequently found it growing in old, deserted
+gardens, almost choked out of existence by weeds and other aggressive
+plants, but still holding to life with a persistency that seemed
+wonderful in a plant of its kind. I have removed some of these plants to
+my own garden, and given them good care, and time after time I have been
+as surprised as delighted at the result. The poor little bushes, that
+had held so tenaciously to life against great odds, seemed to have
+stored up more vitality in their starved roots than any others in the
+garden were possessors of, and as soon as they were given good soil and
+proper care they sent up strong, rank shoots, and thanked me for my
+kindness to them in wonderful crops of flowers, and really put the old
+residents of the place to shame. All through the years of neglect they
+had no doubt been yearning to bud and bloom, but were unable to do so
+because of unfavorable conditions, but when the opportunity to assert
+themselves came they made haste to take advantage of it in a way that
+proves how responsive flowers are to the right kind of treatment.
+
+The Rose will only do its best in a soil that is rather heavy with clay,
+or a tenacious loam. It likes to feel the earth firm about its roots. In
+light, loose soils it never does well, though it frequently makes a
+vigorous growth of branches in them, but it is from a more compact soil
+that we get the most and finest flowers.
+
+[Illustration: HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE]
+
+Some varieties do well in a soil of clay containing considerable gravel.
+Such a soil provides for the roots the firmness of which I have spoken,
+while the gravel insures perfect drainage,--a matter of great importance
+in Rose-culture. Success cannot be expected in a soil unduly retentive
+of moisture. Very heavy soils can be lightened by the addition of
+coarse, sharp sand, old mortar, and cinders. If the location chosen does
+not furnish perfect drainage, naturally, artificial drainage must be
+resorted to. Make an excavation at least a foot and a half in depth, and
+fill in, at the bottom, with bits of broken brick, crockery, coarse
+gravel, fine stone--anything that will not readily decay--and thus
+secure a stratum of porous material through which the superfluous
+moisture in the soil will readily drain away. This is an item in
+Rose-culture that one cannot afford to ignore, if he desires fine Roses.
+
+A rich soil must be provided for the plants in order to secure good
+results. This, also, is a matter of the greatest importance. The ideal
+fertilizer is old, well-rotted cow-manure--so old that it is black, and
+so rotten that it will crumble at the touch of the hoe. On no account
+should fresh manure be used. If old manure cannot be obtained,
+substitute finely-ground bonemeal, in the proportion of a pound to as
+much soil as you think would fill a bushel-basket, on a rough estimate.
+But by all means use the cow-manure if it can possibly be procured, as
+nothing else suits the Rose so well. It will be safe to use it in the
+proportion of a third to the bulk of earth in which you plant your
+Roses. Whatever fertilizer is used should be thoroughly worked into the
+soil before the plants are set out. See that all lumps are pulverized.
+If this is not done, there is danger of looseness about some of the
+roots at planting-time, and this is a thing to guard against, especially
+with young plants.
+
+Location should be taken into consideration, always. Choose, if
+possible, one that has an exposure to the sunshine of the morning and
+the middle of the day. A western exposure is a great deal better than
+none, but the heat of it is generally so intense that few Roses can long
+retain their freshness in it. Something can be done, however, to temper
+the extreme heat of it by planting shrubs where they will shade the
+plants from noon till three o'clock.
+
+Care must be taken, in the choice of a location, to guard against
+drafts. If Roses are planted where a cold wind from the east or north
+can blow over the bed, look out for trouble. Plan for a screen of
+evergreens, if the bed is to be a permanent one. If temporary only, set
+up some boards to protect the plants from getting chilled until
+quick-growing annuals can be made to take their place. I have found that
+mildew on Rose-bushes is traceable, nine times out of ten, to exposure
+to cold drafts, and that few varieties are strong enough to withstand
+the effects of repeated attacks of it. The harm done by it can be
+mitigated, to some extent, by applications of flowers of sulphur, dusted
+over the entire plant while moist with dew, but it will not do to depend
+on this remedy. Remove the cause of trouble and there will be no need of
+any application.
+
+Because the Rose is so beautiful, when in full bloom, quite naturally we
+like to plant it where its beauty can be seen to the best advantage. But
+I would not advise giving it a place on the lawn, or in the front yard.
+When plants are in bloom, people will look only at their flowers, and
+whatever drawbacks there are about the bush will not be noticed. But
+after the flowering period is over, the bushes will come in for
+inspection, and then it will be discovered that a Rose-bush without
+blossoms is not half as attractive as most other shrubs are. We prune it
+back sharply in our efforts to get the finest possible flowers from it,
+thus making it impossible to have luxuriance of branch or foliage. We
+thin it until there is not enough left of it to give it the dignity of a
+shrub. In short, as ornamental shrubs, Roses are failures with the
+exception of a few varieties, and these are not kinds in general
+cultivation. This being the case, it is advisable to locate the Rose-bed
+where it will not be greatly in evidence after the flowering season is
+ended. But try to have it where its glories can be enjoyed by the
+occupants of the home. Not under, or close to, the living-room windows,
+for that space should be reserved for summer flowers, but where it will
+be in full view, if possible, from the kitchen as well as the parlor.
+The flowering period of the Rose is so short that we must contrive to
+get the greatest possible amount of pleasure out of it, and in order to
+do that we want it where we can see it at all times.
+
+Very few of our best Roses are really hardy, though most of the
+florists' catalogues speak of them as being so. Many kinds lose the
+greater share of their branches during the winter, unless given good
+protection. Their roots, however, are seldom injured so severely that
+they will not send up a stout growth of new branches during the season,
+but this is not what we want. We want _Roses_,--lots of them,--and in
+order to have them we must contrive, in some way, to save as many of
+the last year's branches as possible. Fortunately, this can be done
+without a great deal of trouble.
+
+Here is my method of winter protection: Late in fall--generally about
+the first of November, or whenever there are indications that winter is
+about to close in upon us--I bend the bushes to the ground, and cover
+them with dry earth, leaves, litter from the barn, or evergreen
+branches. In doing this I am not aiming to keep the frost away from the
+plants, as might be supposed, but rather to prevent the sun from getting
+at the soil and thawing the frost that has taken possession of it.
+Scientific investigation has proven that a plant, though comparatively
+tender, is not seriously injured by freezing, if it can be _kept frozen_
+until the frost is extracted from it _naturally_,--that is, gradually
+and according to natural processes. It is the frequent alternation of
+freezing and thawing that does the harm. Therefore, if you have a tender
+Rose that you want to carry over winter in the open ground, give it
+ample protection as soon as the frost has got at it--before it has a
+chance to thaw out--and you can be reasonably sure of its coming through
+in spring in good condition. What I mean by the term "ample protection"
+is--a covering of one kind or another that will _shade_ the plant and
+counteract the influence of the sun upon the frozen soil--not, as most
+amateurs seem to think, for the purpose of keeping the soil warm. I have
+already made mention of this scientific fact, and may do it again
+because it is a matter little understood, but is one of the greatest
+importance, hence my frequent reference to it.
+
+If earth is used as a covering, it should be dry, and after it is put
+on, boards, or something that will turn rain and water should be put
+over it. Old oil-cloth is excellent for this purpose. Canvas that has
+been given a coating of paint is good. Tarred sheathing-paper answers
+the purpose very well. Almost anything will do that prevents the earth
+from getting saturated with water, which, if allowed to stand among the
+branches, will prove quite as harmful as exposure to the fluctuations of
+winter weather. If leaves are used,--and these make an ideal covering if
+you can get enough of them,--they can be kept in place by laying coarse
+wire netting over them. Or evergreen branches can be used to keep the
+wind from blowing them away. These branches alone will be sufficient
+protection for the hardier kinds, such as Harrison's Yellow, Provence,
+Cabbage, and the Mosses, anywhere south of New York. North of that
+latitude I would not advise depending on so slight a protection.
+Earth-covering is preferable for the northern section of the United
+States.
+
+[Illustration: ROSE TRELLIS]
+
+It is no easy matter to get sturdy Rose-bushes ready for winter. Their
+canes are stiff and brittle. Their thorns are formidable. One person,
+working alone, cannot do the entire work to advantage. It needs one to
+bend the bushes down and hold them in that position while the other
+applies the covering. In bending the bush, great care must be taken to
+prevent its being broken, or cracked, close to the ground. Provide
+yourself with gloves of substantial leather or thick canvas before you
+tackle them. Then take hold of the cane close to the ground, with the
+left hand, holding it firmly, grasp the upper part of it with the right
+hand, and proceed gently and cautiously with the work until you have it
+flat on the ground. If your left-hand grasp is a firm one, you can feel
+the bush yielding by degrees, and this is what you should be governed
+by. On no account work so rapidly that you do not feel the resistance of
+the branch giving way in a manner that assures you that it is adjusting
+itself safely to the force that is being applied to it. When you have
+it on the ground, you will have to hold it there until it is covered
+with earth, unless you prefer to weight it down with something heavy
+enough to keep it in place while you cover it. Omit the weights, or
+relax your grip upon it, and the elastic branches will immediately
+spring back to their normal position. Sometimes, when a bush is
+stubbornly stiff, and refuses to yield without danger of injury, it is
+well to heap a pailful or two of earth against it, on the side toward
+which it is to be bent, thus enabling you to _curve_ it over the
+heaped-up soil in such a manner as to avoid a sharp bend. Never hurry
+with this work. Take your time for it, and do it thoroughly, and
+thoroughness means carefulness, always. As a general thing, six or eight
+inches of dry soil will be sufficient covering for Roses at the north.
+If litter is used, the covering can be eight or ten inches deep.
+
+Do not apply any covering early in the season, as so many do for the
+sake of "getting the work out of the way." Wait until you are reasonably
+sure that cold weather is setting in.
+
+Teas, and the Bourbon and Bengal sections of the so-called
+ever-bloomers, are most satisfactorily wintered in the open ground by
+making a pen of boards about them, at least ten inches deep, and
+filling it with leaves, packing them firmly over the laid-down plants.
+Then cover with something to shed rain. These very tender sorts cannot
+always be depended on to come through the winter safely at the north,
+even when given the best of protection, but where one has a bed of them
+that has afforded pleasure throughout the entire summer, quite naturally
+he dislikes to lose them if there is a possibility of saving them, and
+he will be willing to make an effort to carry them through the winter.
+If only part of them are saved, he will feel amply repaid for all his
+trouble. Generally all the old top will have to be cut away, but that
+does not matter with Roses of this class, as vigorous shoots will be
+sent up, early in the season, if the roots are alive, therefore little
+or no harm is done by the entire removal of the old growth.
+
+The best Roses to plant are those grown by reliable dealers who
+understand how to grow vigorous stock, and who are too honest to give a
+plant a wrong name. Some unscrupulous dealers, whose supply of plants is
+limited to a few of the kinds easiest to grow, will fill any order you
+send them, and your plants will come to you labelled to correspond with
+your order. But when they come into bloom, you may find that you have
+got kinds that you did not order, and did not care for. The honest
+dealer never plays this trick on his customers. If he hasn't the kinds
+you order, he will tell you so. Therefore, before ordering, try to find
+out who the honest dealers are, and give no order to any firm not well
+recommended by persons in whose opinion you have entire confidence.
+There are scores of such firms, but they do not advertise as extensively
+as the newer ones, because they have many old customers who do their
+advertising for them by "speaking good words" in their favor to friends
+who need anything in their line.
+
+I would advise purchasing two-year-old plants, always. They have much
+stronger roots than those of the one-year-old class, and will give a
+fairly good crop of flowers the first season, as a general thing. And
+when one sets out a new Rose, he is always in a hurry to see "what it
+looks like."
+
+Be sure to buy plants on their own roots. It is claimed by many growers
+that many varieties of the Rose do better when grafted on vigorous stock
+than they do on their own roots, and this is doubtless true. But it is
+also true that the stock of these kinds can be increased more rapidly by
+grafting than from cuttings, and, because of this, many dealers resort
+to this method of securing a supply of salable plants. It is money in
+their pockets to do so. But it is an objectionable plan, because the
+scion of a choice variety grafted to a root of an inferior kind is quite
+likely to die off, and when this happens you have a worthless plant.
+Strong and vigorous branches may be sent up from the root, but from them
+you will get no flowers, because the root from which they spring is that
+of a non-flowering sort. Many persons cannot understand why it is that
+plants so luxuriant in growth fail to bloom, but when they discover that
+this growth comes from the root _below where the graft was inserted_,
+the mystery is explained to them. When grafted plants are used, care
+must be taken to remove every shoot that appears about the plant _unless
+it is sent out above the graft_. If the shoots that are sent up from
+_below_ the graft are allowed to remain, the grafted portion will soon
+die off, because these shoots from the root of the variety upon which it
+was "worked" will speedily rob it of vitality and render it worthless.
+All this risk is avoided by planting only kinds which are grown upon
+their own roots.
+
+In planting Roses, make the hole in which they are to be set large
+enough to admit of spreading out their roots evenly and naturally. Let
+it be deep enough to bring the roots about the same distance below the
+surface as the plant shows them to have been before it was taken from
+the nursery row. When the roots are properly straightened out, fill in
+about them with fine soil, and firm it down well, and then add two or
+three inches more of soil, after which at least a pailful of water
+should be applied to each plant, to thoroughly settle the soil between
+and about the roots. Avoid loose planting if you want your plants to get
+a good start, and do well. When all the soil has been returned to the
+hole, add a mulch of coarse manure to prevent too rapid evaporation of
+moisture while the plants are putting forth new feeding roots.
+
+If large-rooted plants are procured from the nursery, quite likely some
+of the larger roots will be injured by the spade in lifting them from
+the row. Look over these roots carefully, and cut off the ends of all
+that have been bruised, before planting. A smooth cut will heal readily,
+but a ragged one will not.
+
+We have several classes or divisions of Roses adapted to culture at the
+north. The June Roses are those which give a bountiful crop of flowers
+at the beginning of summer, but none thereafter. This class includes
+the Provence, the Mosses, the Scotch and Austrian kinds, Harrison's
+Yellow, Madame Plantier, and the climbers.
+
+[Illustration: RAMBLER ROSES]
+
+The Hybrid Perpetuals bloom profusely in early summer, and sparingly
+thereafter, at intervals, until the coming of cold weather. These are,
+in many respects, the most beautiful of all Roses.
+
+The ever-bloomers are made up of Bengal, Bourbon, Tea and Noisette
+varieties. These are small in habit of growth, but exquisitely beautiful
+in form and color, and most kinds are so delightfully fragrant, and
+flower so freely from June to the coming of cold weather, that no garden
+should be without a bed of them.
+
+The Rugosa Roses are more valuable as shrubs than as flowering plants,
+though their large, bright, single flowers are extremely attractive.
+Their chief attraction is their beautifully crinkled foliage, of a rich
+green, and their bright crimson fruit which is retained throughout the
+season. This class gives flowers, at intervals, from June to October.
+
+Hybrid Perpetuals must be given special treatment in order to secure
+flowers from them throughout the season. Their blossoms are always
+produced on new growth, therefore, if you would keep them producing
+flowers, you must keep them growing. This is done by feeding the plant
+liberally, and cutting back the branches upon which flowers have been
+produced to a strong bud from which a new branch can be developed. In
+this way we keep the plant constantly renewing itself, and in the
+process of renewal we are likely to get a good many flowers where we
+would get few, or none, if we were to let the plant take care of itself.
+The term "perpetual" is, however, a misleading one, as it suggests a
+constant production of flowers. Most varieties of this class, as has
+been said, will bloom occasionally, after the first generous crop of the
+season, but never very freely, and often not at all unless the treatment
+outlined above is carefully followed. But so beautiful are the Roses of
+this class that one fine flower is worth a score of ordinary blossoms,
+and the lover of the Rose will willingly devote a good deal of time and
+labor to the production of it.
+
+[Illustration: DOROTHY PERKINS ROSE--THE BEST OF THE RAMBLERS]
+
+The Ramblers, now so popular, constitute a class by themselves, in many
+respects. They are of wonderfully vigorous habit, have a score or more
+of flowers where others have but one bloom early in the season, and give
+a wonderful show of color. The individual blossoms are too small to
+please the critical Rose-grower, but there are so many in each cluster,
+and these clusters are so numerous, that the general effect is most
+charming. Crimson Rambler is too well known to need description. The
+variety that deserves a place at the very head of the list, allowing me
+to be judge, is Dorothy Perkins. This variety is of slenderer growth
+than Crimson Rambler, therefore of more vine-like habit, and, on this
+account, better adapted to use about porches and verandas, where it can
+be trained along the cornice in a graceful fashion that the
+stiff-branched Crimson Rambler will not admit of. Its foliage is not so
+large as that of the other variety named, but it is much more
+attractive, being finely cut, and having a glossy surface that adds much
+to the beauty of the plant. But the chief charm of the plant is its soft
+pink flowers, dainty and delicate in the extreme. These are produced in
+long, loose sprays instead of crowded clusters, thus making the effect
+of a plant in full bloom vastly more graceful than that of any of the
+others of the class.
+
+Roses have their enemies, and it would seem as if there must be some
+sort of understanding among them as to the date of attack, because
+nearly all of them put in an appearance at about the same time. The
+aphis I find no difficulty in keeping down by the use of Nicoticide--a
+very strongly concentrated extract of the nicotine principle of tobacco.
+This should be diluted with water, as directed on the cans or bottles in
+which it is put up, and applied to all parts of the bush with a sprayer.
+Do not wait for the aphis to appear before beginning warfare against
+him. You can count on his coming, therefore it is well to act on the
+offensive, instead of the defensive, for it is an easier matter to keep
+him away altogether than it is to get rid of him after he has taken
+possession of your bushes. If he finds the tang of Nicoticide clinging
+to the foliage on his arrival, he will speedily conclude that it will be
+made extremely uncomfortable for him, if he decides to locate, and he
+will look for more congenial quarters elsewhere.
+
+For the worm that does so much injury to our plants at the time when
+they are just getting ready to bloom, I use an emulsion made by adding
+two quarts kerosene to one part of laundry soap. The soap should be
+reduced to a liquid, and allowed to become very hot, before the oil is
+added. Then agitate the two rapidly and forcibly until they unite in a
+jelly-like substance. The easiest and quickest way to secure an
+emulsion is by using a brass syringe such as florists sprinkle their
+plants with. Insert it in the vessel containing the oil and soap, and
+draw into it as much of the liquids as it will contain, and then expel
+them with as much force as possible, and continue to do this until the
+desired union has taken place. Use one part of the emulsion to eight or
+ten parts water, and make sure it reaches every portion of the bush.
+
+In Rose-culture, as in every branch of floriculture, the price of
+success is constant vigilance. If you do not get the start of insect
+enemies, and keep them under control, they will almost invariably ruin
+your crop of flowers, and often the bushes themselves. Therefore be
+thorough and persistent in the warfare waged against the common enemy,
+and do not relax your efforts until he is routed.
+
+In making a selection of Hybrid Perpetuals for home planting, the
+amateur finds it difficult to choose from the long lists sent out by
+many dealers. He wants the best and most representative of the class,
+but he doesn't know which these are. If I were asked to select a dozen
+kinds, my choice would be the following:
+
+Alfred Colomb. Bright crimson. Fragrant.
+
+Anna de Diesbach. Carmine. Fragrant.
+
+Baroness Rothschild. Soft pink.
+
+Captain Hayward. Deep rose. Perfect in form.
+
+Frau Carl Druschki. Pure white.
+
+General Jacqueminot. Brilliant crimson. Very sweet.
+
+Jules Margottin. Rosy crimson.
+
+Mabel Morrison. White, delicately shaded with blush.
+
+Magna Charta. Glowing carmine. A lovely flower.
+
+Madame Gabriel de Luizet. Delicate pink. Exquisite.
+
+Mrs. John Laing. Soft pink. Very fragrant.
+
+Ulrich Brunner. Bright cherry red.
+
+To increase the above list would be to duplicate colors, for nearly all
+the other kinds included in the dealers' lists are variations of the
+distinctive qualities of the above. The twelve named will give you more
+pleasure than a larger number of less distinctive kinds would, for in
+each merit stands out pre-eminent, and all the best qualities of the
+best Roses are represented in the list.
+
+
+
+
+THE ROSE AS A SUMMER BEDDER
+
+
+The amateur gardener may enjoy Roses from June to November if he is
+willing to take a little trouble for them. Not, however, with the
+material treated of in the chapter on "The Rose"--though what is said
+in it relative to the culture of the Hybrid Perpetual class applies with
+considerable pertinence to the classes of which I shall make special
+mention in this chapter--but with the summer-blooming sorts, such as the
+Teas, the Bengals, the Bourbons, and the Noisettes. These are classed in
+the catalogues as ever-bloomers, and the term is much more appropriate
+to them than the term Hybrid Perpetual is to that section of the great
+Rose family, for all of the four classes named above _are_ really
+ever-bloomers if given the right kind of treatment--that is, bloomers
+throughout the summer season. In them we find material from which it is
+easy to secure a constant supply of flowers from the beginning of
+summer to the closing in of winter.
+
+In order to grow this class of Roses well, one must understand something
+of their habits. They send out strong branches from the base of the
+plant, shortly after planting, and these branches will generally bear
+from five to eight blossoms. When all the buds on the branch have
+developed into flowers, nothing more can be expected from that branch in
+the way of bloom, unless it can be coaxed to send out other branches.
+This it can be prevailed on to do by close pruning. Cut the old branch
+back to some point along its length--preferably near its base--where
+there is a strong "eye" or bud. If the soil is rich--and it can hardly
+be _too rich_, for these Roses, like those of the kinds treated of in
+the foregoing chapter, require strong food and a great deal of it in
+order to do themselves justice--this bud will soon develop into a
+vigorous branch which, like the original one, will bear a cluster of
+flowers. In order to keep a succession of bloom it is absolutely
+necessary to keep the plant producing new branches, as flowers are only
+borne on new growth. It will be noticed that the treatment required by
+these Roses is almost identical, so far, with that advised for the
+Hybrid Perpetuals. Indeed, the latter are summer ever-bloomers of a
+stronger habit than the class I am now speaking about. That is about all
+the difference there is between them, up to this point, except as
+regards the flowering habit. The Hybrid Perpetual blooms profusely in
+June and July, but sparingly thereafter, while the ever-bloomers bloom
+freely all the season after they get a good start.
+
+Fertilizer should be applied at least once a month. Not in large
+quantities, each time, but enough to stimulate a strong and healthy
+growth. The plants should be kept going ahead constantly. Let them get a
+check, and you will find it a difficult matter to get many flowers from
+them after that, the same season. Give them the treatment that results
+in continuous growth and you will have Roses in abundance up to the
+coming of cold weather. Of course plants so treated are not to be
+expected to attain much size. But who cares for large bushes if he can
+have fine flowers and plenty of them?
+
+The blossoms from the Teas and their kindred are never as large as those
+of the June and the Hybrid Perpetual classes, and, as a general thing,
+are not as brilliant in color. Some are delightfully fragrant, while
+some have no fragrance at all.
+
+La France,--which is classed as a Hybrid Tea, because it is the result
+of hybridizing one of the hardier varieties with a pure-blooded Tea
+variety,--is one of the finest Roses ever grown. It is large, and fine
+in form, rich, though not brilliant, in color, is a very free bloomer,
+and its fragrance is indescribably sweet. Indeed, all the sweetness of
+the entire Rose family seems concentrated in its peculiar, powerful,
+but, at the same time, delicate odor. Color, pale pink.
+
+Duchess de Brabant is an old variety, popular years and years ago, but
+all the better for that, for its long-continued popularity proves it the
+possessor of exceptional merit. It is of very free development, and
+bears large quantities of flowers of silvery pink.
+
+Viscountess Folkestone is, like La France, a Hybrid Tea. It is an
+excellent bloomer. Its color is a soft pink, shaded with cream, with
+reflexed petals. It has a rich, June-Rose fragrance.
+
+Maman Cochet is, all things considered, one of the best of its class. It
+blooms in wonderful profusion. It is a strong grower. Its color is a
+bright pink, overlaid with silvery lustre. It is very double, and quite
+as lovely in bud as in the expanded flower.
+
+[Illustration: TEA ROSE]
+
+Hermosa is an old favorite. It is always in bloom when well cared
+for. Its rich carmine-rose flowers are very double, and are produced in
+prodigal profusion. But it lacks the charm of fragrance.
+
+Caprice is a very peculiar variety. Its thick, waxen petals of rosy
+carmine are heavily blotched and striped with dark red, shading to
+crimson. It is most pleasing when the flower begins to expand.
+
+Perle des Jardins is a most lovely Rose, of almost as rich a color as
+the famous Marechal Neil,--a deep, glowing yellow,--lovely beyond
+description. It is a very free bloomer, and should be given a place in
+all collections.
+
+Sunset--another good bloomer--is a tawny yellow in color, flamed with
+fawn and coppery tints. It is an exquisite Rose.
+
+Clothilde Soupert does not properly belong to either of the four classes
+mentioned above, though of course closely related. It is catalogued as a
+Polyantha. Its habit is peculiar. It bears enormous quantities of
+flowers, with the greatest freedom of any Rose I have ever grown, but
+its blossoms are small, and are produced in clusters quite unlike those
+of the other members of the ever-blooming class. Indeed, its habit of
+growth and flowering is quite like that of the Rambler varieties, on a
+small scale. But, unlike the Ramblers, its flowers are very double. They
+are produced at the extremity of the new branches, in clusters of
+fifteen to twenty and thirty. So many are there to each branch that you
+will find it advisable to thin out half of them if you want perfect
+flowers. In color it is a delicate pink on first opening, fading to
+almost white. At the centre of the flower it is a bright carmine. Give
+this variety a trial and you will be delighted with it.
+
+It must not be understood that the above list includes all the desirable
+sorts adapted to general culture. It is simply a list of the most
+distinct varieties that respond satisfactorily to the treatment
+outlined, and from which the amateur gardener can expect the best
+results. There are scores of other varieties possessing exceptional
+merit, but many of them require the attention of the professional in
+order to give satisfaction, and are not what I feel warranted in
+recommending the amateur to undertake the culture of if large quantities
+of flowers are what he has in mind. Every one on the list given is a
+standard variety, and you will find that you have made no mistake in
+confining your selection to it.
+
+I would advise the purchase of two-year-old plants. Younger plants
+seldom bloom with much profusion the first season.
+
+Order your plants in April. Get them into the ground about the middle of
+May. Mulch the soil about them well. This will do away with the
+necessity of watering if the season happens to prove a dry one. In
+planting, be governed by the directions given in the chapter on "The
+Rose."
+
+Try a bed of these ever-bloomers for a season and you will never
+afterward be without them. Other flowers will rival them in brilliance,
+perhaps, and may require less attention, but--they will not be Roses!
+One fine Rose affords more pleasure to the lover of the best among
+flowers than a whole garden full of ordinary blossoms can, and this is
+why I urge all flower-loving people to undertake the culture of the
+ever-blooming class of Roses, for I know they will give greater
+satisfaction than anything else you can grow.
+
+In fall, the plants can be taken up, packed away in boxes of earth, and
+kept in the cellar over winter. Cut away almost the entire top when the
+plants are lifted. All that one cares to carry through the winter is the
+root of the plant.
+
+
+
+
+THE DAHLIA
+
+
+Thirty or forty years ago the Dahlia was one of our popular flowers.
+That is, popular among those who aspired to "keep up with the times,"
+and grow all the new plants that had real merit in them. At that time
+but one form of it was considered worth growing, and that was the very
+double, globular type of flower. The single varieties were looked upon
+as worthless.
+
+After a time the popularity of the flower waned for some reason hard to
+account for, except on the theory that there are fashions in flowers as
+in clothes. I presume that the true explanation is that we Americans are
+prone to run to extremes, and when we take up a plant and it becomes a
+favorite we overdo matters and tire of it because we see so much of it.
+Then we relegate it to the background for a time, and after awhile we
+drag it out of the obscurity to which we temporarily consigned it as a
+penalty for its popularity, and straightway it comes into greater
+prominence than ever, precisely as does the cut of a sleeve or the style
+of hair-dressing. This explanation may not be very complimentary to
+American good sense or taste, but I think it goes to the root of the
+matter. It is sincerely to be hoped that the time will come when our
+flower-growing will have no trace of the fad about it, and that whatever
+we cultivate will grow into favor solely because of real merit, and that
+its popularity will be permanent. I am encouraged to think that such may
+be the case, for some of the favorite flowers of the day have held their
+own against all newcomers for a considerable period, and seem to be
+growing in favor every year. This is as it should be.
+
+It used to be thought that the Dahlia could not be grown successfully at
+the north if it were not started into growth in the house, or
+greenhouse, very early in the season. Nine times out of ten the result
+was a weak, spindling plant by the time it was safe to put it into the
+ground--which was not until all danger from frost was over. Generally
+such plants were not strong enough to bloom until about the time frost
+came in fall, for it took them the greater part of the season to recover
+from the effect of early forcing, in which the vitality of the plant
+suffered almost to the point of extinction, and to which was added the
+ordeal of the change from in- to out-door conditions. "Our seasons are
+too short for it," was the universal verdict. "At the south it may do
+well, but there's no use in trying to do anything with it at the north
+unless one has a greenhouse, and understands the peculiarities of the
+plant better than the rank and file of flower-loving people can expect
+to." So it came about that its cultivation was given up by small
+gardeners, and it was seen only on the grounds of the wealthier people,
+who could afford the services of the professional gardener.
+
+We have learned, of late years, that our treatment of the plant was
+almost the opposite of what was required.
+
+Some eight or ten years ago, I ordered a collection of choice varieties
+of the Dahlia. I ordered them early in the season, expecting to start
+them into growth in pots as usual. For some reason they did not come
+until the last day of May. It was then too late to start them in the
+usual way, and I planted them in the garden, expecting they would amount
+to nothing.
+
+The result was, to me, a most surprising one.
+
+The place in which I planted them was one whose soil was very rich and
+mellow. It was near a pump, from which a great deal of water was thrown
+out every day.
+
+In less than a week after planting, the tubers threw up strong shoots,
+and these grew very rapidly under the combined effects of rich soil,
+warmth, and plenty of moisture at the roots. Indeed, they went ahead so
+rapidly that I considered their growth a discouraging feature, as I felt
+sure it must be a weak one.
+
+The result was that when the State Horticultural Society held its summer
+meeting in the village in which I resided, on the twenty-eighth of
+August, I placed on exhibition some of the finest specimens of Dahlia
+blossoms the members of the Society had ever seen, and carried off eight
+first premiums.
+
+Since then I have never attempted to start my Dahlias in the house. I
+give them an extremely rich soil, spaded up to the depth of at least a
+foot and a half, and made so mellow that the new roots find it an easy
+matter to work their way through it. Water is applied freely during the
+season. I consider this an item of great importance, as I find that the
+plant fails to make satisfactory development when located in a dry
+place. A pailful of water a day is not too much to apply to each plant
+in a dry season.
+
+The soil must be rich. In a poor soil development will be on a par with
+that of plants which have been given a dry place.
+
+Because of the peculiar brittleness of the stalks of the Dahlia it is
+quite necessary to furnish them with good support. My plan is to set a
+stout stake by each plant, at planting-time. This should be at least
+five feet tall. I put it in place at the time of planting the tuber,
+because then I know just where the root of the future plant is, and can
+set the stake without injuring it. But if stake-setting is left until
+later in the season one runs a risk of breaking off some of the new
+tubers that have formed about the old one. I tie the main stalk of the
+plant to the stake with a strip of cloth instead of a string, as the
+latter will cut into the soft wood. Sometimes, if the plant sends up a
+good many stalks, it will be necessary to furnish additional support.
+Unless some kind of support is given we are likely to get up some
+morning after a heavy rain, or a sudden wind, and find our plants broken
+down, and in attempting to save them we are pretty sure to complete the
+wreck, as a slight twist or turn in the wrong direction will snap the
+stalk off at its junction with the root.
+
+The Dahlia will be found one of our very best plants for use in the
+border where something is needed for a filler. It is very effective as a
+hedge, and can be used to great advantage to hide a fence. Single
+specimens are fine for prominent locations on the grounds about the
+house. In fact, it is a plant that can be made useful anywhere.
+
+[Illustration: CACTUS DAHLIA]
+
+In fall, when our early frosts come, it will be necessary to protect it
+on cool nights, as it is extremely tender. This can be easily done by
+setting some stout sticks about the plant and covering it with a sheet.
+If tided over the frosty weather that usually comes for two or three
+nights about the middle of September, it will bloom profusely during the
+weeks of pleasant weather that almost always follow the early frosts,
+and then is when it will be enjoyed most.
+
+When the frost has killed its stalks, it should be dug and got ready for
+winter. Lift the great mass of roots that will have grown from the
+little tuber planted at the beginning of the season, and do this without
+breaking them apart, if possible. Spread them out in the sun. At night
+cover with a blanket, and next day expose them to sunshine again. Do
+this for several days in succession until the soil that is lifted with
+them will crumble away easily. Exposure to sunshine has the effect of
+relieving them of a good deal of moisture which they contain in great
+quantity when first dug, and which ought to be got rid of, in a large
+degree, before they are stored in the cellar.
+
+The tubers should never be placed on the cellar-bottom, because of the
+dampness that is generally found there. I spread mine out on shelves of
+wire netting, suspended four or five feet from the floor. If they show
+signs of mould I know they are too damp, and elevate the shelves still
+more, in order to get the tubers into a dryer stratum of air. If they
+seem to be shrivelling too much, I lower the shelves a little. Cellars
+differ so much that one can only tell where the right place is by
+experimenting. Watch your tubers carefully. A little neglect will often
+result in failure, as mould, once given a chance to secure a foothold,
+is rapid in its action, and your tubers may be beyond help before you
+discover that there is anything the matter with them. As soon as you
+find a mouldy root, throw it out. If left it will speedily communicate
+its disease to every plant with which it comes in contact. Some persons
+tell me that they succeed in wintering their Dahlia tubers best by
+packing them in boxes of perfectly dry sand. If this is done, be sure
+to elevate the box from the floor of the cellar.
+
+Quite naturally persons have an idea that the best results will be
+secured by planting out the whole bunch of tubers, in spring. This is a
+mistake. One good tuber, with an "eye," or growing point, will make a
+much better plant than the whole bunch set out together.
+
+To sum up the treatment I advise in the cultivation of the Dahlia:
+
+Have the ground very rich.
+
+Have it worked deeply.
+
+Plant single tubers about the first of June.
+
+Furnish a good support.
+
+See that the ground is well supplied with moisture.
+
+There has been a great change of opinion with regard to the Dahlia. We
+no longer confine ourselves to one type of it. The single varieties,
+which were despised of old, are now prime favorites--preferred by many
+to any other kind. The old very double "show" and "fancy" varieties are
+largely grown, but they share public favor with the "decoratives," the
+pompones, and the cactus, and, as I have said, the single forms. Which
+of these forms is most popular it would be hard to say. All of them have
+enthusiastic champions, and the best thing to do is to try them all.
+
+"Show" Dahlias are those with large and very double flowers of a single
+color, and those in which the ground color is of a lighter shade than
+the edges or tips of the petals. The outer petals recurve, as the flower
+develops, until they meet at the stem, thus giving us a ball-like
+blossom.
+
+"Fancy" Dahlias are those having striped petals, and those in which the
+ground color is darker than the edges or tips of the petals. This class,
+as a rule, is very variable, and a plant will often have flowers showing
+but one color. Sometimes half the flower will be one color, half
+another.
+
+The Pompone or Liliputian class is a miniature edition of the show and
+fancy sorts, quite as rich in color and perfect in form as either, but
+of a dwarf habit of growth. This class is well adapted to bedding out in
+summer.
+
+The Cactus Dahlia has long pointed or twisted petals. Most varieties are
+single, but some are semi-double. This is the class that will be likely
+to find favor with those who admire the ragged Japanese Chrysanthemums.
+
+Decorative Dahlias have broad, flat petals, somewhat loosely arranged,
+and much less formal than those of the show, fancy, or pompone sorts.
+Their flowers seldom have more than two rows of petals, and are flat,
+showing a yellow disc at the centre. As a general thing they are
+produced on long stalk, a flower to a stalk. This makes them very useful
+for cutting. They are the most graceful members of the entire Dahlia
+family, allowing me to be judge.
+
+The single type has but one row of petals. Plants of this class are very
+strong growers, and can be used to advantage in the back rows of the
+border.
+
+No flower in cultivation to-day has a wider range of color than the
+Dahlia, and nearly all the colors represented in it are wonderfully rich
+in tone. From the purest white to the richest crimson, the deepest
+scarlet, delicate pink and carmine, rich yellow, dark purple, orange and
+palest primrose,--surely all tastes can find something to please them.
+
+
+
+
+THE GLADIOLUS
+
+
+One of the most popular flowers of the day is the Gladiolus. All things
+considered, it is our best summer bloomer. Nothing in the floral world
+exceeds it in variety and range of color. This color is in some
+varieties dark and rich in scarlets, crimsons, and purples, in others
+dainty and delicate in pink, pearly flesh, almost pure white, and
+softest rose, while the midway sorts are in brilliant carmines,
+cherry-reds, lilacs, and intermediate tones too numerous to mention.
+Nearly all varieties show most magnificent combinations of color that
+baffle description. Comparatively few varieties are one color
+throughout.
+
+Most plants in which such a bewildering variety of color is found have a
+tendency to coarseness, but this objection cannot be urged against the
+Gladiolus. It has all the delicacy of the Orchid. Its habit of growth
+fits it admirably for use in the border. Its ease of cultivation makes
+it a favorite with the amateur who has only a limited amount of time to
+spend among the flowers. It is a plant that any one can grow, and it is
+a plant that will grow almost anywhere. It is one of the few plants that
+seem almost able to take care of themselves. Beyond putting the corms in
+the ground, in spring, and an occasional weeding as the plant develops,
+very little attention is required.
+
+To secure the best effect from it, the Gladiolus should be planted in
+masses. Single specimens are far less satisfactory. One must see fifty
+or a hundred plants in a bed ten or fifteen feet long to fully
+appreciate what it is capable of doing.
+
+The time to plant it is in May, after the soil has become warm. Nothing
+is gained by earlier planting.
+
+The bed should be spaded to the depth of a foot, at least. Then the soil
+should be worked over until it is fine and light. A liberal quantity of
+some good fertilizer should be added to it. Commercial fertilizers seem
+to suit it well, but the use of barnyard manure gives excellent results,
+and I would prefer it, if obtainable.
+
+The corms should be put about four inches below the surface, care being
+exercised at the time of planting to see that they are right side up.
+It is often difficult to decide this matter before sprouting begins,
+but a little careful examination of the corm will soon enable you to
+tell where the sprouts will start from, and this will prevent you from
+getting it wrong-side up. As soon as the plants send up a stalk, some
+provision should be made for future support. If you prefer to stake the
+beds, set the stakes in rows about two feet apart. Wire or cord need not
+be stretched on them until the stalks are half grown. The reason for
+setting the stakes early in the season is--you know just where the corm
+is then, but later on you will not be able to tell where the new corms
+are, and in setting the stakes at random you are quite likely to injure
+them. When you apply the cord or wire to the stakes, run it lengthwise
+of the bed, and then across it in order to furnish a sufficient support
+without obliging the stalks to lean from the perpendicular to get the
+benefit of it.
+
+For several seasons past, I have made use of a coarse-meshed wire
+netting, placed over the bed, and fastened to stakes about eighteen
+inches high. The stalks find no difficulty in making their way through
+the large meshes of the netting, and with a support of this kind they
+dispose themselves in a natural manner that is far more satisfactory
+than tying them to stakes, as we often see done. Some kind of a support
+must be given if we would guard against injury caused by strong winds.
+When the flower-stalk is once prostrated it is a difficult matter to get
+it back in place without breaking it.
+
+If netting is used it need not be placed over the bed before the middle
+of July. By that time most of the weeds which require attention during
+the early part of the season will have been disposed of. Putting on the
+netting at an earlier period would greatly interfere with the proper
+cultivation of the bed. The soil should be kept light and open until the
+flower-stalks begin to show their buds.
+
+The flowering-period covers several weeks, beginning in August, and
+lasting all through September.
+
+The Gladiolus is extremely effective for interior decorative work. It
+lasts for days after being cut. Indeed, if cut when the first flowers at
+the base of the spike open, it will continue to develop the buds above
+until all have become flowers, if the water in which the stalks are
+placed is changed daily, and a bit of the end of the stalk is cut off
+each time. For church use no flower excels it except the Lily, and that
+we can have for only a short time, and quite often not at all.
+
+In late October the plants should be lifted, and spread out in the
+sunshine to ripen. Do not cut the stalks away until you are ready to
+store the corms. Then cut off each stalk about two inches from its
+junction with the corm. When the roots seem well dried out, put them in
+paper bags containing perfectly dry sawdust or buckwheat shells, and
+hang them in a dry place where the frost will not get at them. I would
+not advise storing them in the cellar, as they generally mould or mildew
+there.
+
+Most varieties increase quite rapidly. You will find several new corms
+in fall, taking the place of the old one planted in spring. Often there
+will be scores of little fellows the size of a pea, clustered about the
+larger corms. These should be saved, and planted out next spring. Sow
+them close together in rows, as you would wheat. The following year they
+will bloom.
+
+So extensively is the Gladiolus grown at the present time that enough to
+fill a good-sized bed can be bought for a small sum. And in no other way
+can you invest a little money and be sure of such generous returns. What
+the Geranium is to the window-garden that the Gladiolus is to the
+outdoor garden, and one is of as easy culture as the other.
+
+[Illustration: A GARDEN GLIMPSE]
+
+Some of the choicest varieties are sold at a high price. One reason for
+this is--the finest varieties are slow to increase, and it takes a long
+time to get much of a stock together. This is why they are so rare, and
+so expensive. But many of them are well worth all that is asked for
+them.
+
+You may have a mixed collection of a thousand plants and fail to find a
+worthless variety among them. Indeed, some of the very finest flowers I
+have ever had have been grown from collections that cost so little that
+one hardly expected to find anything but the commonest flowers among
+them.
+
+
+
+
+LILIES
+
+
+The Rose, like the Lily, is a general favorite. It has more than once
+disputed the claim of its rival to the title of Queen of Flowers, and
+though it has never succeeded in taking the place of the latter in the
+estimation of the average flower-lover, it occupies a position in the
+floral world that no other flower dare aspire to.
+
+This plant does well only in soils that have the best of drainage.
+Water, if allowed to stand about its roots in spring, will soon be the
+death of it.
+
+Therefore, in planting it be sure to choose a location that is naturally
+well drained, or provide artificial drainage that will make up for the
+lack of natural drainage. This is an item you cannot afford to overlook
+if you want to grow the finest varieties of Lilies in your garden. Some
+of our native Lilies grow on low lands, and do well there, but none of
+the choicer kinds would long survive under such conditions. The
+probabilities are that if we planted them there we would never see
+anything more of them.
+
+The ideal soil for the Lily seems to be a fine loam. I have grown good
+ones, however, in a soil containing considerable clay and gravel. This
+was on a sidehill where drainage was perfect. Had the location been
+lower, or a level one, very likely the plants would not have done so
+well.
+
+The bulbs should be put into the ground as early in September as
+possible.
+
+On no account allow the bulbs to be exposed to the air. If you do, they
+will rapidly part with the moisture stored up in their scales, and this
+is their life-blood.
+
+It is a good plan to put a handful of clean, coarse sand about each bulb
+at planting-time.
+
+If barnyard manure is used,--and there is nothing better in the way of
+fertilizer for any bulb,--be sure that it is old and well rotted. On no
+account should fresh manure be allowed to come in contact with a Lily.
+If barnyard manure is not to be had, use bonemeal. Mix it well with the
+soil before putting the bulbs into it.
+
+Bulbs of ordinary size should be planted about eight inches below the
+surface. If in groups, about a foot apart.
+
+The best place for Lilies, so far as show goes, is among shrubbery, or
+in the border.
+
+Below I give a list of the best varieties for general cultivation, with
+a brief description of each:
+
+_Auratum_ (the Gold-Banded Lily).--Probably the most popular member of
+the family, though by no means the most beautiful. Flowers white, dotted
+with crimson, with a gold band running through each petal.
+
+_Speciosum album._--A beautiful pure-white variety. Deliciously
+fragrant.
+
+_Speciosum rubrum_ (the Crimson-Banded Lily).--Flowers white with a red
+band down each petal.
+
+_Brownsii._--A splendid variety. Flowers very large, and trumpet-shaped.
+Chocolate-purple outside, pure white within, with dark brown stamens
+that contrast finely with the whiteness of the inner part of the petals.
+
+_Tigrinum_ (Tiger Lily).--One of the hardiest of all Lilies. Flowers
+orange-red, spotted with brownish-black. This will succeed where none of
+the others will. Should be given a place in all gardens.
+
+_Superbum._--The finest of all our native Lilies. Orange flowers,
+spotted with purple. Often grows to a height of eight feet, therefore
+is well adapted to prominent positions in the border.
+
+[Illustration: AURATUM LILY]
+
+While the Lily of the Valley is, strictly speaking, _not_ a Lily, it
+deserves mention here. It is one of the most beautiful flowers we grow,
+of the purest white, and with the most delightful fragrance, and foliage
+that admirably sets off the exquisite loveliness of its flowers. No
+garden that "lives up to its privileges" will be without it. It does
+best in a shady place. Almost any soil seems to suit it. It is very
+hardy. It spreads rapidly, sending up a flower-stalk from every "pip."
+When the ground becomes completely matted with it, it is well to go over
+the bed and cut out portions here and there. The roots thus cut away can
+be broken apart and used in the formation of new beds, of which there
+can hardly be too many. The roots of the old plants will soon fill the
+places from which these were taken, and the old bed will be all the
+better for its thinning-out. Coming so early in spring, we appreciate
+this most beautiful plant more than we do any flower of the later
+season. And no flower of any time can excel it in daintiness, purity,
+and sweetness.
+
+
+
+
+PLANTS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES
+
+
+Amateur gardeners are always wanting plants for some special purpose,
+and, for their benefit, I propose to devote this chapter to
+"special-purpose" information.
+
+"What shall we grow to shade doors and windows? We want something that
+will grow rapidly. If a flowering vine, all the better, but shade is the
+all-important consideration."
+
+The best large-growing vine for this purpose, all things considered, is
+the Wild Cucumber. No other annual vine exceeds it in rapidity of
+growth. It will grow twenty or twenty-five feet in a season, if given
+something to support it to that height, therefore it is very useful
+about the second-story windows, which height few of our annual vines
+attain. It has very bright-green, pretty foliage, somewhat resembling
+that of the native Grape, though not so large. About midsummer it comes
+into bloom. Its flowers are white,--delicate, fringy little things, in
+spikes, with a very agreeable fragrance, especially in the morning when
+wet with dew,--and there are so many of them that the vine looks as if
+drifted over with a fall of snow. The plant has tendrils by which it
+attaches itself to anything with which it comes in contact, consequently
+strings, latticework, or wire netting answer equally well for its
+support. Its tendency is to go straight up, if whatever support is given
+encourages it to do so, but if you think advisable to divert it from its
+upward course all you have to do is to stretch strings in whatever
+direction you want it to grow, and it will follow them. Its flowers are
+followed by balloon-shaped fruit, covered with prickly spines--little
+ball-shaped cucumbers, hence the popular name of the plant. When the
+seeds ripen, the ball or pod bursts open, and the black seeds are shot
+out with considerable force, often to a distance of twenty feet or more.
+In this way the plant soon spreads itself all over the garden, and next
+spring you will have seedling plants by the hundred. It soon becomes a
+wild plant, and is often seen growing all along the roadside, and never
+quite so much "at home" as when it finds a thicket of bushes to clamber
+over. It has one drawback, however, which will be especially noticeable
+when the plant is domesticated: Its early leaves ripen and fall off
+while those farther up the vine are in their prime, and remain so until
+frost comes. But this defect can easily be remedied by growing some tall
+plant at the base of the vines to hide their nakedness.
+
+Another most excellent vine is the good old Morning Glory, with its
+blue, purple, violet, pink, carmine, and white flowers produced in such
+profusion that they literally cover its upper branches during the early
+part of the day. This is a very satisfactory vine to train about door
+and window. Do not give it ordinary twine as a support, as the weight of
+the vines, when well developed, is almost sure to break it down. Stout
+cord, such as is used in binding grain, is the best thing I know of, as
+it is rather rough, thus enabling the vine to take hold of it with good
+effect. This is a rapid grower, and a wonderfully free bloomer, and it
+will give you flowers throughout the season. It is much showier than the
+Wild Cucumber, but its foliage lacks the delicacy which characterizes
+that plant.
+
+Another good vine for covering porches, verandas, and summer-houses, is
+the Japan Hop. This plant--it is an annual, like the other two of which
+mention has been made--has foliage of a rich, dark green, broadly and
+irregularly blotched and marbled with creamy white and pale yellow. It
+grows rapidly, and gives a dense shade.
+
+"I would like a sort of hedge, or screen, between the flower and the
+vegetable garden. What plants would you advise for this purpose?"
+
+The Zinnia is an excellent plant where a low hedge is desired. It
+averages a height of three feet. It is compact and symmetrical in habit,
+branching quite close to the ground. It is a rapid grower, and of the
+very easiest culture. It comes into bloom in July, and continues to
+produce great quantities of flowers, shaped like miniature Dahlias, in
+red, scarlet, pink, yellow, orange, and white, until frost comes. It
+makes a most gorgeous show.
+
+Kochia, more commonly known as "Burning Bush" or "Mexican Fire-Plant,"
+is a charming thing all through the season. In summer it is a pleasing
+green. In fall it turns to a brilliant red, hence its popular names, as
+given above. Its habit is very compact, and one of great symmetry. If
+the plants are set about a foot apart, and in two rows,--these rows a
+foot apart,--you will have a low hedge that will be as smooth as one of
+Arbor Vitæ after the gardener has given it its annual shearing. When the
+bush takes on its autumnal coloring it is as showy as a plant can well
+be, and is always sure of attracting attention, and being greatly
+admired.
+
+Amaranthus is another very pleasing plant for hedge purposes. It grows
+to a height of about four feet. Some varieties have a dark, bronze-green
+foliage, others foliage of a dull, rich Indian-red, while some are
+yellow-green--quite rare among plants of this class. The flowers, which
+are small, individually, are thickly set along pendant stems, and give
+the effect of ropes of chenille. In color they are a dull red, not at
+all showy in the sense of brilliance, but really charming when seen
+dropping in great profusion against the richly colored foliage. Our
+grandmothers grew the original varieties of this plant under the name of
+"Prince's Plume," "Prince's Feather," or "Love Lies Bleeding." But since
+the florists have taken it in hand, and greatly improved it, it no
+longer retains the good old names which always meant something. To
+secure the best results with this plant, when grown as a hedge or
+screen, set it in rows about a foot apart, each way, and use some of the
+dwarf sorts for the front row. Or a flowering plant of contrasting
+color--like the Nasturtium, or the double yellow Marigold, or the
+velvety African variety, with flowers of a dark maroon shading to
+blackish-brown--can be grown at its base, with fine effect.
+
+[Illustration: THE ODDS AND ENDS CORNER]
+
+Sweet Peas make a good screen if given proper support, and planted
+thickly.
+
+"I would like a large group or bed of ornamental foliaged plants on the
+lawn, but have grown rather tired of Cannas and Caladiums. What would
+you suggest? I don't want anything hard to grow."
+
+If very large plants are wanted, I would advise, as best of all,
+Ricinus, better known, perhaps, as Castor Bean, or Castor Plant. This is
+an annual of wonderfully vigorous growth. It often reaches a height of
+ten feet, in good soil, with a corresponding spread of branches. Its
+leaves are often a yard across, of a dark coppery bronze, with a
+purplish metallic lustre that makes the plant very striking. The best
+effect is secured by growing four or five plants in a group. None of the
+tropical plants that have come into prominence in gardening, during the
+past ten or twelve years, are nearly as effective as this easily-grown
+annual, whose seeds sell at five cents a package. For a very prominent
+location on the lawn or anywhere about the home-grounds no better plant
+could be selected.
+
+The Amaranthus advised for hedge use makes a very showy circular bed on
+the lawn when grown in large masses, in the centre, surrounded with
+flowering plants of a strongly contrasting but harmonious color. The
+Calliopsis, rich golden-yellow marked with brown, combines charmingly
+with the dull, deep, rich reds which characterize the foliage and
+flowers of the most desirable varieties of this too much neglected
+annual. There are new varieties advertised of rather dwarf habit, with
+golden-green foliage, that could be used about the red-leaved kinds with
+fine effect.
+
+"I would like a bed of very brilliant flowers for the front yard. Can't
+have many, for I haven't time to take care of them, so want those which
+will give the most show for the least trouble. Would like something so
+bright that it will _compel_ people to stop and look at it. What shall I
+get?"
+
+An exceedingly brilliant combination can be made by the use of scarlet
+Salvia, as the centre of a bed six or eight feet across, with Calliopsis
+surrounding it. The scarlet and yellow of these two flowers will make
+the place fairly blaze with color, and they will continue to bloom until
+frost comes. They require next to no care.
+
+The annual Phlox makes a fine show if proper care is taken in the
+arrangement of the various colors with a view to contrast. The pale rose
+variety combines beautifully with the pure whites and pale yellows. A
+bed of these three colors alone will be found much more satisfactory
+than one in which a larger number of colors are used. Set each color in
+a row by itself. Such a bed will "compel" persons to stop and admire it,
+but they will do it for the sake of its beauty rather than its great
+brilliance.
+
+Petunias are excellent plants for large beds where a strong show of
+color is desired. They bloom early, continue through the season, and
+require very little care.
+
+The Shirley Poppy makes a brave show about the last of July, but after
+that it soon dies. If it were an all-season bloomer it would be one of
+our most popular plants for producing a brilliant effect. I would advise
+using it, and filling the bed in which it grew with other plants, after
+its flowering period was over. Its rich colors and satiny texture make
+it a plant that always attracts attention.
+
+Scarlet Geraniums are used a great deal where a strong color-show is
+desired, but they are not as satisfactory as many other plants because
+of their ragged look, after a little, unless constantly given care. The
+first flowers in truss will fade, and their discolored petals will spoil
+the effect of the flowers that come after them if they are allowed to
+remain. It is not much of a task to go over the plants and pull out
+these faded flowers every, day, but we are not likely to do this. I
+prefer single Geraniums to double ones for garden use, because they drop
+their old petals, and never take on the ragged appearance which
+characterizes the ordinary bedding Geranium.
+
+"I would like a low bed--that is, a bed near the path where it will be
+looked down upon. Tall plants would be out of place there. Tell me of a
+few of the best kinds for such a location."
+
+The Portulacca is well adapted to such use, as it never grows to be more
+than three or four inches in height, but spreads in a manner to make it
+look like a green carpet, upon which it displays its flowers of red,
+rose, scarlet, yellow and white with very vivid effect. This plant might
+well be called a vegetable salamander, as it flourishes in dry, hot
+locations where other plants would utterly fail. It fairly revels in the
+hot sunshine of midsummer.
+
+The good old Verbena is another very desirable plant for a low bed. It
+is of spreading habit, blooms profusely and constantly, and comes in a
+wide range of beautiful colors.
+
+The Ageratum is a lovely plant for a low bed, with its great masses of
+soft lavender flowers. Fine effects are secured by using dark yellow
+Coleus or golden Pansies as an edging, these colors contrasting
+exquisitely with the dainty lavender-blue of the Ageratum.
+
+"What flowers shall we grow to cut from? Would like something that is
+not coarse, and something that will bloom for a long time, and has long
+stems."
+
+At the head of the list I would place the Sweet Pea. This is a favorite,
+everywhere, for cutting. The most useful varieties are the delicate rose
+and white ones, the pure whites, the pale pinks, the dainty lavenders,
+and the soft primrose yellows.
+
+The Nasturtium is an old favorite for cutting, and a corner of every
+garden ought to be given up to a few plants of it for the special
+purpose of furnishing cut flowers.
+
+The Aster is a magnificent flower,--it seems to be growing better and
+better each year, if such a thing is possible,--and nothing else among
+the annuals compares with it in lasting quality, when cut. If the water
+in which it is placed is changed daily, it will last for two weeks, and
+seem as fresh at the end of that time as when first cut. The most useful
+variety for cutting is the "Branching Aster," with stems a foot or more
+in length. This makes the flowers of this class particularly useful for
+vases. I would advise growing three colors, when it is wanted solely for
+cutting--white, pale rose, and delicate lavender.
+
+The newer varieties of Dahlia--especially the "decorative" section--are
+superb for cutting. Their flowers are not formal like those of the old
+double kinds, and being borne on long stalks, they can be arranged very
+gracefully. Like the Aster, they last well. They will be found among the
+most useful of our late flowers for large vases, and where striking and
+brilliant effects of color are desired.
+
+The Gladiolus is also well adapted to cutting, and is very effective
+when used in tall vases, the entire stalk being taken.
+
+Scabiosa, often known as "Mourning Bride," is an excellent plant for
+vase-use, and deserves more attention than it has heretofore enjoyed.
+Its flowers are quite unlike most other annuals in color, and will be
+appreciated on that account. The dark purple varieties combine
+delightfully with those of a lighter tone in yellow, and with pure
+whites. As the blossoms are produced on long stems, they dispose
+themselves very gracefully when used in rather deep vases.
+
+Every garden should have several plants of Mignonette in it, grown for
+the especial purpose of cutting from. This is one of the most fragrant
+flowers we have among the annuals.
+
+For small vases--little vases for the breakfast table, or the desk, and
+for gifts to friends--one ought to grow quantities of Heliotropes, Tea
+Roses, and Pansies.
+
+To cut from, early in spring, nothing is lovelier than the Lily of the
+Valley.
+
+For larger vases, the Dicentra is always pleasing, coming close after
+the Lily of the Valley. Cut it with a good deal of foliage, and be
+careful to give each stalk ample room in which to adjust itself. A vase
+with a flaring top is what this flower ought to have, as its stalks have
+just the curve that fits the flare. A straight vase obliges it to stand
+up so primly that half the charm of the flower is destroyed.
+
+For late fall cutting, there is no other flower quite equal to the
+Cosmos. The pink and white varieties are lovely when cut by the branch,
+and used in large vases. They seem especially adapted to church
+decoration.
+
+"We want some flowers that will bloom late in the season. Are there any
+that can be depended on after early frosts?"
+
+Yes. First on the list I would name the Aster. This sturdy annual is
+seldom at its best before the first frosts, and can be considered in its
+prime during the first half of October. And it will last until cold
+weather sets in.
+
+Ten Week Stock--the "Gillyflower" of grandmother's garden--is a late
+bloomer. The snows of November often find it full of flowers, and are
+powerless to injure it. It is delightfully fragrant, and particularly
+adapted to cutting, because of its long spikes of bloom. It comes in
+white, rosy-purple, red, and sulphur-yellow.
+
+The Marguerite Carnation deserves a place in every garden because of its
+great beauty, and its late-flowering habit. While not all the plants
+grown from seed will give double flowers, a large share of them will be
+so, and in form, size, and color they will compare very favorably with
+the greenhouse varieties of this favorite flower. Most of them will have
+the true Carnation fragrance. For choice little bouquets, for home use,
+or to give your especial friends nothing can be more satisfactory. You
+can expect a dozen flowers from each plant where you would get but one
+from the greenhouse sorts.
+
+
+
+
+ARBORS, SUMMER-HOUSES, PERGOLAS, AND OTHER GARDEN FEATURES
+
+
+Few persons who daily pass attractive homes in the suburban districts of
+our large cities and the outlying country, realize that much of their
+charm is due to effects which require a comparatively small outlay in
+dollars and cents. Good taste, combined with a degree of skill that is
+within reach of most of us, represent the chief part of the investment.
+And yet--these little, inexpensive things are the very ones that produce
+the pleasing effects we are all striving after in our efforts to make
+home attractive. Most of them convey an impression of being made for
+use, not show. They are in a class with the broad-seated, wide-armed
+"old hickory" rockers with which we make our modern verandas comfortable
+nowadays, and the hammock swung in shady places, wherein one may lie and
+take his ease, and forget everything but the fact that it is sometimes
+a pleasant thing to be lazy--frankly, unblushingly lazy. It is a healthy
+indication in our American life when so many persons go in for getting
+all the comfort they can from outdoors in summer. Every home whose
+grounds are large enough to accommodate them ought to have benches here
+and there, made for comfort, rather than looks, garden-seats,
+summer-houses--all suggestive of rest and relaxation. In this chapter I
+propose to briefly describe a few such home-made features, hoping that
+the man or boy who has the "knack" of using tools to advantage, actuated
+by a desire to make home-environments pleasant, may be led to copy some
+of them.
+
+Let me say, right here, that the work demanded in the construction of
+rustic features about the home is just the kind of work I would
+encourage boys to undertake. It will be found so enjoyable that it will
+seem more like play than labor. There is the pleasure of planning
+it--the sense of responsibility and importance which comes to the lad
+who sets out to do something "all by himself," and the delightful
+consciousness that what is done may result in making home more
+home-like, and add to the comfort and pleasure of those whose love and
+companionship go to make home the best place on earth.
+
+[Illustration: SUMMER HOUSE]
+
+In constructing summer-houses, bridges, and other rustic work, there
+should be a careful plan made before the work is begun. Never work "by
+guess." Go at the undertaking precisely as the mechanic sets about the
+construction of a house. Draw a diagram of what the structure is to be.
+A rough diagram will answer quite as well as any, provided it covers all
+particulars.
+
+Figure out just how much material the plan calls for. Get this on the
+ground before anything else is done. The material required will be poles
+of different sizes and lengths, large and substantial nails, a few
+planks for floors and benches--possibly tables--and shingles for
+covering such structures as need roofing in, unless bark is used for
+this purpose. Of course bark gives more of a "rustic" look to a roof,
+but it is not an easy matter to obtain a good quality of it, and
+shingles, stained a mossy-green or dark brown, will harmonize charmingly
+with the rest of the building, and furnish a much more substantial roof
+than it is possible to secure with even the best kind of bark.
+
+If possible, use cedar poles in preference to any other, for several
+reasons: First of all, they are more ornamental, because of their bark,
+which is more permanent than that of any other wood. They are light,
+and easy to handle, and take a nail as readily as pine. And then--their
+aromatic odor makes it a constant delight to work among them to those
+who like sweet, fresh, wild-woody smells. But all kinds of poles can be
+substituted for cedar if that is not obtainable. The kind of wood used
+in the construction of rustic work is not a matter of prime importance,
+though it may be, and is, largely a matter of taste. But when we cannot
+do as we would like to we must do the best we can.
+
+Provide yourself with a good saw, a hammer, a square, and a mitre-box.
+These will be all the tools you will be likely to need. Use spikes to
+fasten the larger timbers together, and smaller nails for the braces and
+ornamental work of the design. Speaking of ornamental work reminds me to
+say that the more crooked, gnarled, and twisted limbs and branches you
+can secure, the better will be the effect, as a general thing, for
+formality must be avoided as far as possible. We are not working
+according to a plan of Nature's but we are using Nature's material, and
+we must use it as it comes from Nature's hand in order to make it most
+effective.
+
+Take pains in making joints. If everything is cut to the proper length
+and angle, it will fit together neatly, and only a neat job will be
+satisfactory.
+
+Let me advise the reader who concludes to try his hand at the
+construction of rustic work to confine his selection of design to
+something not very elaborate. Leave that for wealthy people who can
+afford to have whatever their taste inclines them to, without regard to
+cost, and who give the work over to the skilled workman. I am
+considering matters from the standpoint of the home-maker, who believes
+we get more real pleasure out of what we make with our own hands than
+from that which we hire some one to make for us.
+
+In one of the illustrations accompanying this chapter is shown a
+combination summer-house and arbor that is very easily made, and that
+will cost but little. The picture gives so clear an idea of framework
+and general detail that a description does not seem necessary. As a
+considerable weight will have to be supported by the roof, when vines
+have been trained over it, it will be necessary to use stout poles for
+uprights, and to run substantial braces from them to the cross-poles
+overhead. The built-in seats on each side add greatly to the comfort of
+the structure, and invite us to "little halts by the wayside," in which
+to "talk things over," or to quiet hours with a book that would lose
+half its charm if read indoors, as a companion. The original of this
+picture is built over a path that is sometimes used as a driveway, and
+is known as "the outdoor parlor" by the family on whose grounds it
+stands. You will find some member of the family there on every pleasant
+day, throughout the entire season, for it is fitted out with hammocks
+and swinging seats, and a table large enough to serve as tea-table, on
+occasion, with a cover that lifts and discloses a snug box inside in
+which books and magazines can be left without fear of injury in case of
+shower or damp weather. Tea served in such surroundings takes on a
+flavor that it never has indoors. The general design of this
+summer-house, as will readily be seen by the illustration, is simplicity
+itself, and can very easily be copied by the amateur workman.
+
+It often happens that there are ravines or small depressions on the
+home-grounds over which a rustic bridge could be thrown with pleasing
+effect, from the ornamental standpoint, and prove a great convenience
+from the standpoint of practicality. If there is a brook there, all the
+better, but few of us, however, are fortunate enough to be owners of
+grounds possessing so charming a feature, and our bridges must be
+more ornamental in themselves than would be necessary if there was water
+to add its attraction to the spot.
+
+[Illustration: A PERGOLA SUGGESTION]
+
+One of the most delightful summer-houses I have ever seen was largely
+the result of an accident. An old tree standing near a path was broken
+down in a storm, some years ago, and a portion of its trunk was made use
+of as a support for one side of the roof. On the opposite side, rustic
+arches were used. The roof was shingled, and stained a dark green, thus
+bringing it into color-harmony with its surroundings. Over the roof a
+Wistaria was trained, and this has grown to such size that but few of
+the shingles are to be seen through its branches. About this spot the
+home-life of the family centres from April to late October. "We would
+miss it more than any part of the dwelling," its owner and builder said
+to me, when I asked permission to photograph it. I could readily
+understand the regard of the family for so beautiful a place, which, I
+have no doubt, cost less than one of the great flower-beds that we see
+on the grounds of wealthy people, and see without admiring, so formal
+and artificial are they, and so suggestive of professional work
+duplicated in other gardens until the very monotony of them becomes an
+offence to the eye of the man or woman who believes in individuality and
+originality.
+
+Rustic fences between lots are great improvements on the ordinary
+boundary fence, especially if vines are trained over them. They need not
+be elaborate in design to be attractive. If made of poles from which the
+bark has been taken, they should be stained a dark green or brown to
+bring them into harmony with their surroundings.
+
+Screen-frames of rustic work, as a support for vines, to hide unsightly
+outbuildings, are far preferable to the usual one of wood with wire
+netting stretched over it. They will cost no more than one of lattice,
+and will be vastly more pleasing, in every respect.
+
+Gateways can be made exceedingly pleasing by setting posts at each side
+of the gate, and fashioning an arch to connect them, at the top. Train a
+vine, like Ampelopsis, over the upper part of the framework, and you
+make even the simplest gateway attractive.
+
+A garden-seat, with a canopy of vines to shade it, may not be any more
+comfortable, _as a seat_, than any wooden bench, but the touch of beauty
+and grace imparted by the vine that roofs it makes it far more
+enjoyable than an expensive seat without the vine would be to the person
+who has a taste for pleasing and attractive things, simply because it
+pleases the eye by its outlines, thus appealing to the sense of the
+beautiful. Beauty is cheap, when looked at from the right standpoint,
+which is never one of dollars and cents. It is just these little things
+about a place that do so much to make it home-like, as you will readily
+see if, when you find a place that pleases you, you take the trouble to
+analyze the secret of its attractiveness.
+
+The pergola has not been much in evidence among us until of late. A
+rapidly increasing taste for the attractive features of old-world,
+outdoor life in sunny countries where much of the time is spent outside
+the dwelling, and the introduction of the "Italian garden" idea, have
+given it a popularity in America that makes it a rival of the arbor or
+summer-house, and bids fair to make it a thing of permanence among us.
+
+The question is frequently asked by those who have read about pergolas,
+but have never seen one, as to wherein they differ from the ordinary
+arbor. The difference is more in location, material, and manner of
+construction than anything else. They are generally built of timber that
+can be given a coating of paint, with more or less ornamental pillars
+or supports and rafters, and are constructed along definite
+architectural lines. They are, in fact, ornamental structures over which
+vines are to be trained loosely with a view to tempering the sunshine
+rather than excluding it. The framework of the arbor, as a general
+thing, is considered secondary to the effect produced by it when the
+vines we plant about it are developed. But, unlike the Americanized
+pergola, the arbor is almost always located in a retired or
+inconspicuous part of the home-grounds, and is seldom found connected
+with the dwelling. To get the benefit of the arbor, or the summer-house
+we evolve from it, we must go to it, while the pergola, as adapted by
+most of us, brings the attractive features of out-door life to the
+house, thus combining out- and in-door life more intimately than
+heretofore. One of the illustrations accompanying this chapter shows a
+very simple pergola framework--one that can be built cheaply, and by any
+man or boy who is at all "handy with tools," and can be used as a plan
+to work from by anyone who desires to attach a modification of the
+pergola proper to the dwelling, for the purpose of furnishing shade to
+portions of it not provided with verandas. It will require the
+exercise of but little imagination to enable one to see what a charming
+feature of the home such a structure will be when vines have been
+trained over it. There are many homes that would be wonderfully improved
+by the addition of something of this kind, with very little trouble and
+expense. It is to be hoped that many a housewife can prevail on the
+"men-folks" to interest themselves on pergola-building on a small scale,
+as indicated in the illustration, for practical as well as ornamental
+reasons. Anything that will take the occupants of the dwelling out of
+doors is to be encouraged. Especially would the women of the household
+enjoy a vine-shaded addition of this kind, during the intervals of
+leisure that come during the day, and the head of the family would find
+it an ideal place in which to smoke his evening pipe. In several
+respects it can be made much more satisfactory than a veranda. It can be
+made larger--roomier, and there will be more of an out-door atmosphere
+about it because of its airiness, and the play of light and shade
+through the vines that clamber overhead. Pergolas of elaborate design
+need not be described here, as they properly belong to homes not made
+attractive by the individual efforts of the home owner. They are better
+adapted to the grounds of wealthy people, who are not obliged to
+consider expense, and who are not actively interested in the development
+of the home by themselves.
+
+[Illustration: A SIMPLE PERGOLA FRAMEWORK]
+
+What vines would I advise for use about arbors, summer-houses, and
+pergolas?
+
+The Wild Grape, though not much used, is one of our best native vines.
+It has the merit of rapid growth, entire hardiness, luxuriant foliage
+and delightful habit, and when in bloom it has a fragrance that is as
+exquisite as it is indescribable--one of those vague, elusive, and yet
+powerful odors so characteristic of spring flowers. You will smell
+it--the air will be full of it--and yet it will puzzle you to locate it.
+The wind will blow from you and it will be gone. Then a breeze will blow
+your way, and the air will suddenly be overpoweringly sweet with the
+scent shaken free from blossoms so small as to be hardly noticeable
+unless one makes a careful search for them. Then, too, the fruit is not
+only attractive to the eye in fall, but pleasant to the taste of those
+who delight in the flavor of wild things, among whom we must class the
+robins, who will linger about the vine until the last berry is gone.
+
+[Illustration: GARDENER'S TOOL-HOUSE]
+
+Another most excellent vine for covering these structures is our
+native Ampelopsis, better known as American Ivy, or Virginia Creeper.
+This vine is of exceedingly rapid growth, and will accomplish more in
+one season than most other vines do in two or three years. Its foliage
+is beautiful at all times, but especially so in late autumn when it
+takes on a brilliance that makes it a rival of the flower. In fact,
+every leaf of it seems all at once to become a flower, glowing with
+scarlet and maroon of varying shades, with here and there a touch of
+bronze to afford contrast and heighten the intensity of the other
+colors. This vine is perhaps the best of all vines for use on rustic
+structures, because it takes hold of rough poles and posts with stout
+little tendrils or sucker-like discs which ask for no assistance from us
+in the way of support.
+
+Another most charming vine is Clematis _paniculata_. This is a variety
+of the Clematis family of comparatively recent introduction, quite
+unlike the large-flowering class. It has white flowers, small
+individually, but produced in such enormous quantities that the upper
+portions of the vine seem to be covered with foam, or a light fall of
+snow. They will entirely hide the foliage with their dainty, airy grace,
+and you will declare, when you first see the plant in full bloom, that
+it is the most beautiful thing you ever saw in the way of a vine. And
+not the least of its merits is its habit of flowering at a time when
+most vines have passed into the sere-and-yellow-leaf period. September
+and October see it in its prime. Its foliage, of dark, rich, glossy
+green, furnishes a most pleasing background against which its countless
+panicles of white bloom stand out with most striking and delightful
+effect. I have no knowledge of a more floriferous vine, and I know of no
+more beautiful one. As a covering for the pergola attached to the house
+it is unrivalled.
+
+In the southern belt of our northern states, where the Wistaria is hardy
+enough to withstand the winter, no more satisfactory flowering vine can
+be chosen for a pergola covering. Its habit of growth and flowering
+seems perfectly in harmony with the primary idea of the pergola. It will
+furnish all the shade that is needed without shutting out the sunshine
+entirely, and its pendant clusters of lavender-blue flowers are never
+more pleasing than when seen hanging between the cross-bars of the
+pergola.
+
+If the person who builds a summer-house or a pergola is impatient for
+results it will be well to make use of annual vines for covering it the
+first season, though something of a more permanent nature should always
+be planned for. One of our best annuals, so far as rapidity of growth is
+concerned, is the Wild Cucumber, of which mention was made in the
+preceding chapter. Because of its rapid development, the usefulness of
+the plant for immediate effects will be readily understood. But it is
+valuable only as a substitute for something more substantial and should
+not be depended on after the first season. It lacks the dignity and
+strength of a permanent vine.
+
+The Morning Glory will be found very effective for a first-season
+covering. This vine is prodigal in its production of flowers. Every
+sunny day, throughout the season, it will be covered with blossoms, so
+many in number that they make a veritable "glory" of the forenoon hours.
+
+Another excellent annual is the Japan Hop. This will perhaps afford
+better satisfaction than the Wild Cucumber or the Morning Glory, because
+its foliage bears some resemblance to that of the hardy vines of which I
+have spoken. In other words, it has more substance and dignity, and
+therefore seems more in harmony with the structure over which it is
+trained. Its leaves have a variegation of creamy white on a dark green
+ground. This makes it as ornamental as if it were a flowering plant.
+
+Every home ought to have its "playhouse" for children. If fitted with
+screens to keep out mosquitoes, the younger members of the family,
+especially the girls, will literally "live in it" for six months of the
+year. I would suggest fitting it with canvas curtains to shut out wind
+and rain. I would also advise making it of good size, for the children
+will take delight in entertaining visitors in it, and a tiny structure
+is not convenient for the entertainment of "company." Such a building
+can be made as ornamental as any arbor or pergola at slight cost, when
+vines are used to hide the shortcomings of its material and
+construction. Be sure it will be appreciated by the little folks, and
+quite likely some of the "children of a larger growth" will dispute its
+occupancy with them, at times, if there is no other building of its kind
+about the place.
+
+
+
+
+CARPET-BEDDING
+
+
+Carpet-Bedding is not the most artistic phase of gardening, by any
+means, but it has a great attraction for many persons who admire masses
+of harmonious and contrasting colors more than the individual beauty of
+a flower. Therefore a chapter on this subject will no doubt be gladly
+welcomed by those who have seen the striking effects secured by the use
+of plants having ornamental or richly colored foliage, in our large
+public parks, and on the grounds of the wealthy.
+
+Let me say, just here, that the person who attempts what, for want of a
+better name, might be called pictorial gardening, is wise if he selects
+a rather simple pattern, especially at the outset of his career in this
+phase of garden-work. Intricate and elaborate designs call for more
+skill in their successful working out than the amateur is likely to be
+master of, and they demand a larger amount of time and labor than the
+average amateur florist will be likely to expend upon them. And the
+fact should never be lost sight of that failure to give all the care
+needed brings about most discouraging results. This being the case,
+select a design in which the effect aimed at can be secured by broad
+masses of color, depending almost wholly on color-contrast for pleasing
+results. Bear in mind that this "school" of pictorial art belongs to the
+"impressionistic" rather than the "pre-Raphaelite," about which we hear
+so much nowadays, and leave the fine work to the professional gardener,
+or wait until you feel quite sure of your ability to attempt it with a
+reasonably good show of success.
+
+Some persons are under the impression that flowering plants can be used
+to good effect in carpet-bedding. This is not the case, however. In
+order to bring out a pattern or design fully and clearly, it is
+absolutely necessary that we make use of plants which are capable of
+giving a solid color-effect. This we obtain from foliage, but very few
+flowering plants are prolific enough of bloom to give the desired
+result. The effect will be thin and spotty, so never depend on them.
+Quite often they can be used in combination with plants having
+ornamental foliage in such a manner as to secure pleasing results, but
+they always play a secondary part in this phase of gardening.
+
+The best plants to use in carpet-bedding are the following:
+
+Coleus, in various shades of red, maroon, and scarlet, light and dark
+yellow, green and white, and varieties in which colors and shades of
+color are picturesquely blended.
+
+Achyranthes, low-growing plants in mixtures of red, pink, yellow and
+green.
+
+Alternatheras, similar to Achyranthes in habit, but with red as a
+predominating color. Both are excellent for working out the finer
+details of a design.
+
+Pyrethrum--"Golden Feather"--with feathery foliage of a tawny yellow.
+
+Centaurea _gymnocarpa_,--"Dusty Miller,"--with finely-cut foliage of a
+cool gray.
+
+Geranium Madame Salleroi--with pale green and white foliage. This is a
+most excellent plant for use in carpet-bedding because of its close,
+compact habit of growth, and its very symmetrical shape which is
+retained throughout the entire season without shearing or pruning.
+
+It must be borne in mind by the amateur florist that success in
+carpet-bedding depends nearly as much on the care given as on the
+material used. In order to bring out a design sharply, it is necessary
+to go over the bed at least twice a week and cut away all branches that
+show a tendency to straggle across the boundary line of the various
+colors. Run your pruning shears along this line and ruthlessly cut away
+everything that is not where it belongs. If this is not done, your
+"pattern" will soon become blurred and indistinct. If any intermingling
+of colors "from across the line" is allowed, all sharpness of outline
+will be destroyed.
+
+The plants must be clipped frequently to keep them dwarf and compact.
+Make it a point to keep the larger-growing kinds, such as Coleus,
+Pyrethrum and Centaurea, under six inches in height rather than over it.
+Alternatheras and Achyranthes will need very little shearing, as to top,
+because of their habit of low growth.
+
+In setting these plants in the bed, be governed by the habit of each
+plant. Achyranthes and Alternatheras, being the smallest, should be put
+about four inches apart. Give the Coleus about six inches of lee-way,
+also the Centaurea. Allow eight inches for Madame Salleroi Geranium and
+Pyrethrum. These will soon meet in the row and form a solid line or mass
+of foliage.
+
+So many persons have asked for designs for carpet-bedding, that I will
+accompany this chapter with several original with myself which have
+proved very satisfactory. Some of them may seem rather complicated, but
+when one gets down to the business of laying them out, the seeming
+complications will vanish.
+
+In laying out all but the star-shaped and circular beds, it is well to
+depend upon a square as the basis to work from. Decide on the size of
+bed you propose to have, and then stake out a square as shown by the
+dotted lines in design No. 1, and work inside this square in filling in
+the details. If this is done, the work will not be a difficult one.
+
+[Illustration: No. 1.]
+
+Design No. 1 will be found easy to make and admits of many pleasing
+combinations and modifications. Each gardener who sees fit to adopt any
+of these designs should study out a color-scheme of his own. Knowing the
+colors of the material he has to work with it will not be difficult to
+arrange these colors to suit individual taste. I think this will be more
+satisfactory than to give any arbitrary arrangement of colors, for half
+the pleasure of gardening consists in originating things of this kind,
+rather than copying what some one else has originated, or of following
+instructions given by others. This does not apply so much to designs for
+beds as it does to the colors we make use of in them.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2.]
+
+In the designs accompanying this chapter it will be seen that simple
+plans are made capable of producing more elaborate effects by making use
+of the dotted lines. Indeed, one can make these designs quite intricate
+by dividing the different spaces as outlined in No. 2. A plain centre
+with a plain point, as shown in _a_, shows the bed in its very simplest
+form. In _g_, _c_, and _d_, we see these points with three different
+arrangements suggested, and the dotted line in the central portion
+indicates a change that can be made there that will add considerably to
+the effectiveness of the design. A little study of other designs will, I
+think, make them so plain that they can be worked out with but little
+trouble.
+
+[Illustration: No. 3.]
+
+I would suggest that before deciding on any color-combinations, a rough
+diagram be made of whatever bed you select and that this be colored to
+correspond with the material you have to work with. Seeing these colors
+side by side on paper will give you a better idea of the general effect
+that will result from any of your proposed combinations than you can get
+in any other way, and to test them in this manner may prevent you from
+making some serious mistakes.
+
+[Illustration: No. 4.]
+
+It will be necessary to go over the beds every day or two and remove all
+dead or dying leaves. Neatness is an item of the greatest importance in
+this phase of gardening, or any other, for that matter.
+
+[Illustration: No.5.]
+
+Large plants can be used in the centre of any of these designs, if one
+cares to do so, with very good effect. For this purpose we have few
+plants that will give greater satisfaction than the Dahlia. Scarlet
+Salvia would be very effective if yellow Coleus were used about it, but
+it would not please if surrounded with red Coleus, as the red of the
+plant and the red of the flower would not harmonize. A Canna of rich,
+dark green would make a fine centre plant for a bed in which red Coleus
+served as a background. One of the dark copper-colored varieties would
+show to fine effect if surrounded with either yellow Pyrethrum or gray
+Centaurea.
+
+[Illustration: No. 6.]
+
+Ageratum, with its delicate lavender-blue flowers, can be made extremely
+attractive in combination with yellow Coleus. A pink Geranium surrounded
+with gray Centaurea would be delightful in the harmony that would result
+from a combination of these colors.
+
+[Illustration: No. 7.]
+
+[Illustration: No. 8.]
+
+Nos. 7 and 8 illustrate the simplest possible form of bed. No. 7 is
+designed for plants to be set in rows. In a bed of this kind flowering
+plants can be used more effectively than in any of the others. Pink,
+white, and pale yellow Phlox would be very pretty in such a combination.
+No. 8 would be quite effective if each of the five sections were of a
+different color of Coleus. Or the whole star might be of a solid color,
+with a border of contrasting color. Red Coleus with Madame Salleroi
+Geranium as a border would look well. So would yellow Coleus edged with
+Centaurea.
+
+
+
+
+FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR EDGING BEDS AND WALKS
+
+
+We do not lay as much stress on edging beds and walks with flowering
+plants as formerly, but the practice is a most pleasing one, and ought
+not to be neglected. It is one of the phases of gardening that has been
+allowed to fall into disuse, to a considerable extent, but there are
+already signs that show it is coming back to its old popularity, along
+with the old-fashioned flowers that are now more in favor than ever
+before. This is as it should be.
+
+A bed without a pretty border or edging always seems incomplete to me.
+It is as if the owner of it ran short of material before it was
+finished. The bit of lace or ribbon that is to add the last touch of
+grace and beauty to the gown is lacking.
+
+Especially is a border of flowering plants satisfactory if kinds are
+selected which bloom throughout the greater part of the season. The
+plants we make use of in the centre of the bed are not always attractive
+before they come into bloom, neither are they that after they have
+passed their prime, but a pretty edging of flowers draws attention from
+their shortcomings, and always pleases.
+
+One of our best flowering plants for edging purposes is Candytuft. It
+comes into bloom early in the season, and blooms in great profusion
+until the coming of frost. Keep it from developing seed and it will
+literally cover itself with bloom. I would advise going over it twice a
+week and clipping off every cluster of faded blossoms. This answers two
+purposes--that of preventing the formation of seed, and of removing what
+would be a disfigurement to the plant if it were allowed to remain.
+
+There are two varieties of Candytuft in cultivation--one white, the
+other a dull red. The white variety is the one most persons will select,
+as it harmonizes with all other plants. But the red sort is very
+pleasing when used with harmonious colors. I last year saw a bed of
+Nasturtium bordered with it, and the effect was delightful. Its dull
+color blended well with the richer, stronger tones of the Nasturtium
+flowers, and gave them an emphasis that was suggestive of the effect of
+dull, rich colors used in old rugs in heightening and bringing out, by
+contrast, the brighter colors.
+
+In using Candytuft for edging, set the plants about a foot apart. I
+would advise two rows of them, placing the plants in such a manner that
+they alternate in the rows. Do not attempt to train them. Let them do
+that for themselves. One of their most attractive features is their lack
+of formality when allowed to grow to suit themselves. Very pleasing
+results are secured by using the white and red varieties together, the
+colors alternating. If the centre of the bed is filled with "Golden
+Feather" Pyrethrum and these two Candytufts are used as an edging, the
+effect will be very fine as the dull red admirably supplements the
+greenish-yellow color of the Pyrethrum, while the white relieves what,
+without it, would be too sombre a color-scheme.
+
+Sweet Alyssum is excellent for edging purposes. Its general effect is
+quite similar to that of the white Candytuft, but it has greater
+delicacy of both bloom and foliage, and the additional merit of a
+delightful fragrance.
+
+Ageratum is lovely for edging beds of pink Geraniums, its soft lavender
+tones being in perfect harmony with their color. It is equally
+satisfactory when used with pale rose Phlox Drummondi, or the soft
+yellow shades of that flower. Combine the three colors in a bed and you
+will have something unusually dainty and delightful. One of the
+prettiest beds I saw last summer was filled with Sweet Alyssum, and
+edged with Ageratum. If there was any unfavorable criticism to be made,
+it was that a touch of some brighter, stronger color was needed to
+relieve its white and lavender. A free-flowering rose-colored Geranium
+in its centre, or a pink Verbena, would have added much to the general
+effect, I fancy. As it was, it was suggestive of old blue-and-white
+Delft, and the collector of that ware would have gone into raptures over
+it.
+
+For a permanent edging, for beds, paths, and the border, Bellis
+_perennis_, whose popular name is English Daisy, is one of the best of
+all plants. It is entirely hardy. It blooms early in the season. It is
+wonderfully generous in its production of flowers. These are small, and
+very double, some pink, some almost white, produced on short stems which
+keep them close to the ground and prevent them from straggling. Its
+thick, bright green foliage furnishes a charming background against
+which the blossoms display themselves effectively. It is a plant that
+does well everywhere, and is always on good terms with everything else
+in the garden, as will be seen by the illustration that shows it in full
+bloom, along with Pansies and Hyacinths. Because of its compact,
+non-straggling habit it is especially useful for bordering paths and the
+border, permitting the use of the lawn-mower or the rake with perfect
+freedom. Plants should be set about eight inches apart. If you have but
+few plants of it and desire more, pull the old plants apart in spring
+and make a new one out of each bit that comes away with a piece of root
+attached. By fall the young plants will have grown together and formed a
+solid mass of foliage, with a great many "crowns" from which flowers
+will be produced the following season. Florists can generally furnish
+seedling plants in spring, from which immediate effects can be secured
+by close planting.
+
+[Illustration: A BORDER OF CREEPING PHLOX]
+
+One of the best--if not _the_ best--plants for all-around use in edging
+is Madame Salleroi Geranium. It is quite unlike any other Geranium of
+which I have any knowledge, in general habit. It forms a bushy, compact
+plant, and bears a solid mass of foliage. No attention whatever is
+required in the way of pruning. The plant trains itself. The ordinary
+flowering Geranium must be pinched back, and pruned constantly to
+prevent it from becoming "leggy," but there is no trouble of this
+kind with Madame Salleroi. Its branches, of which there will often be
+fifty or more from a plant, are all sent up from the crown of the plant,
+and seldom grow to be more than five or six inches in length. Each
+branch may have a score of leaves, borne on stems about four inches
+long. These leaves are smaller than those of any other Geranium. Their
+ground color is a pale green, and every leaf is bordered with creamy
+white. This combination of color makes the plant as attractive as a
+flowering one. It is a favorite plant for house-culture in winter, and
+those who have a specimen that has been carried over can pull it apart
+in May and plant each bit of cutting in the ground where it is to grow
+during summer, feeling sure that not one slip out of twenty will fail to
+grow if its base is inserted about an inch deep in soil which should be
+pinched firmly about it to hold it in place while roots are forming. Set
+the cuttings about ten inches apart. By midsummer the young plants will
+touch each other, and from that time on to the coming of frost your
+border will be a thing of beauty, and one of the delightful things about
+it will be--it will require no attention whatever from you. Never a
+branch will have to be shortened to keep it within bounds. No support
+will be needed. The plants will take care of themselves. I have never
+had a plant that is easier to grow. It harmonizes with everything. Seen
+against the green of the lawn it is charming. All things considered, it
+is an ideal plant for edging. In combination with scarlet and yellow
+Coleus it is exceedingly effective, because of its strong
+color-contrast.
+
+Most amateur gardeners are familiar with the various merits of Coleus,
+Alternatheras, Achyranthes, "Golden Feather" Pyrethrum, and Centaurea
+_maritima_, better known as "Dusty Miller" because of its gray foliage.
+These are all good, when properly cared for, when used for edging beds
+and borders. Especially so when used with Cannas, Caladiums, and other
+plants of striking foliage, where their rich colors take the place of
+flowers.
+
+Phlox _decussata_, commonly known as "Moss Pink" because of its fine
+foliage and bright pink flowers, is a most excellent plant for the hardy
+border, because it stands our winters quite as well as the hardiest
+perennials. Early in spring it will cover itself with charming blossoms
+that are as cheerful to look at as the song of the robin or the blue
+bird is to hear. It is a lovable little thing, and has but one rival
+among early-flowering plants for edging, and that rival is the English
+Daisy.
+
+
+
+
+PLANNING THE GARDEN
+
+
+The flower garden not being one of the necessities of life, in the usual
+sense of the term, people are likely to consider the making of it of so
+little importance that it is hardly worth while to give the matter much
+consideration. Consequently they simply dig up a bed here and there, sow
+whatever seed they happen to have, and call the thing done.
+
+A haphazard garden of that sort is never satisfactory. In order to make
+even the smallest garden what it ought to be it should be carefully
+planned, and every detail of it well thought out before the opening of
+the season.
+
+To insure thoroughness in this part of the work I would advise the
+garden-maker to make a diagram of it as he thinks he would like to have
+it. Sketch it out, no matter how roughly. When you have a map of it on
+paper you will be able to get a much clearer idea of it than you can
+obtain from any merely mental plan.
+
+After locating your beds, decide what kind of flower you will have in
+each one. But before you locate your plants study your catalogue
+carefully, and make yourself familiar with the heights and habits of
+them. Quite likely this will lead to a revision of your mental diagram,
+for you may find that you have proposed to put low-growing kinds in the
+rear of tall-growing sorts, and tall-growing kinds where they would
+seriously interfere with the general effect.
+
+Bear in mind that there is always a proper place for each plant you make
+use of--if you can find it. The making of a working diagram and the
+study of the leading characteristics of the plants you propose to use
+will help you to avoid mistakes that might seriously interfere with the
+effectiveness of your garden.
+
+Do not attempt more than you are sure of your ability to carry through
+well. Many persons allow the enthusiasm of the spring season to get the
+better of their judgment, and lead them into undertaking to do so much
+that after a little the magnitude of the work discourages them, and, as
+a natural result, the garden suffers seriously, and often proves a sad
+failure. Bear in mind that a few really good plants will give a
+hundredfold more pleasure than a great many mediocre ones. Therefore
+concentrate your work, and aim at quality rather than quantity. Never
+set out to have so large a garden that the amount of labor you have to
+expend on it will be likely to prove a burden rather than a pleasurable
+recreation.
+
+[Illustration: IN SUMMER]
+
+[Illustration: IN WINTER]
+
+Do not attempt anything elaborate in a small garden. Leave fancy beds
+and striking designs to those who have a sufficient amount of room at
+their disposal to make them effective.
+
+I would advise keeping each kind of plant by itself, as far as possible.
+Beds in which all colors are mixed promiscuously are seldom pleasing
+because there are sure to be colors there that are out of harmony with
+others, and without color-harmony a garden of most expensive plants must
+prove a failure to the person of good taste.
+
+I would not, therefore, advise the purchase of "mixed" seed, in which
+most persons invest, because it is cheaper than that in which each color
+is by itself. This may cost more, but it is well worth the additional
+expense. Take Phlox Drummondi as an illustration of the idea governing
+this advice: If mixed seed is used, you will have red, pink, mauve,
+scarlet, crimson, violet, and lilac in the same bed,--a jumble of colors
+which can never be made to harmonize and the effect of which will be
+very unpleasant. On the other hand, by planning your bed in advance of
+making it, with color-harmony in mind, you can so select and arrange
+your colors that they will not only harmonize, but afford a contrast
+that will heighten the general effect greatly. For instance, you can use
+rose-color, white and pale yellow varieties together, or scarlet and
+white, or carmine and pale yellow, and these combinations will be in
+excellent harmony, and give entire satisfaction. The mauves, lilacs, and
+violets, to be satisfactory, should only be used in combination with
+white varieties. I am speaking of the Phlox, but the rule which applies
+to this plant applies with equal force to all plants in which similar
+colors are to be found.
+
+If there are unsightly places anywhere about the grounds aim to hide
+them under a growth of pretty vines. An old fence can be made into a
+thing of beauty when covered with Morning Glories or Nasturtiums. By the
+use of a trellis covered with Sweet Peas, or a hedge of Zinnia, or of
+Cosmos, we can shut off the view of objectionable features which may
+exist in connection with the garden. Outhouses can be completely hidden
+in midsummer by planting groups of Ricinus about them, and filling in
+with Hollyhocks, and Delphinium, and Golden Glow, and other
+tall-growing plants. In planning your garden, study how to bring about
+these desirable results.
+
+Keep in mind the fact that if you go about garden-making in a haphazard
+way, and happen to get plants where they do not belong, as you are quite
+likely to do unless you know them well, you have made a mistake which
+cannot be rectified until another season. This being the case, guard
+against such mistakes by making sure that you know just what plant to
+use to produce the effect you have in mind.
+
+Plan to have a selection of plants that will give flowers throughout the
+entire season. The majority of annuals bloom most profusely in June and
+July, but the prevention of seed-development will force them into bloom
+during the later months.
+
+Plan to have a few plants in reserve, to take the places of those which
+may fail. Something is liable to happen to a plant, at any time, and
+unless you have material at hand with which to make good the loss, there
+will be a bare spot in your beds that will be an eye-sore all the rest
+of the season.
+
+Plan to have the lowest growers near the path, or under the sitting-room
+windows where you can look down upon them.
+
+Plan to have a back-yard garden in which to give the plants not needed
+in the main garden a place. There will always be seedlings to thin out,
+and these ought not to be thrown away. If planted in some out-of-the-way
+place they will furnish you with plenty of material for cutting, and
+this will leave the plants in the main garden undisturbed.
+
+
+
+
+THE BACK-YARD GARDEN
+
+
+A great deal is written about the flower-garden that fronts the street,
+or is so located that it will attract the passer-by, but it is seldom
+that we see any mention made of the garden in the back-yard. One would
+naturally get the idea that the only garden worth having is the one that
+will attract the attention of the stranger, or the casual visitor.
+
+I believe in a flower-garden that will give more pleasure to the home
+and its inmates than to anyone else, and where can such a garden be
+located with better promise of pleasurable results than by the kitchen
+door, where the busy housewife can blend the brightness of it with her
+daily work, and breathe in the sweetness of it while about her indoor
+tasks? It doesn't matter if its existence is unknown to the stranger
+within the gates, or that the passer-by does not get a glimpse of it. It
+works out its mission and ministry of cheer and brightness and beauty in
+a way that makes it the one garden most worth having. Ask the busy
+woman who catches fleeting glimpses of the beauty in it as she goes
+about her work, and she will tell you that it is an inspiration to her,
+and that the sight of it rests her when most weary, and that its
+nearness makes it a companion that seems to enter into all her moods.
+
+Last year I came across such a garden, and it pleased me so much that I
+have often looked back to it with a delightful memory of its homeliness,
+its utter lack of formality, and wished that it were possible for me to
+let others see it as I saw it, for, were they to do so, I feel quite
+sure every home would have one like it.
+
+"I never take any pains with it," the woman of the home said to me, half
+apologetically. "That is, I don't try to make it like other folks'
+gardens. I don't believe I'd enjoy it so much if I were to. You see, it
+hasn't anything of the company air about it. It's more like the neighbor
+that 'just drops in' to sit a little while, and chat about neighborhood
+happenings that we don't dare to speak about when some one comes to make
+a formal call. I love flowers so much that it seemed as if I must have a
+few where I could see them, while I was busy in the kitchen. You know, a
+woman who does her own housework can't stop every time she'd like to to
+run out to the front-yard garden. So I began to plant hardy things here,
+and I've kept on ever since, till I've quite a collection, as you see.
+Just odds and ends of the plants that seem most like folks, you know. It
+doesn't amount to much as a garden, I suppose most folks would think,
+but you've no idea of the pleasure I get out of it. Sometimes when I get
+all fagged out over housework I go out and pull weeds in it, and hoe a
+little, and train up the vines, and the first I know I'm ready to go
+back to work, with the tired feeling all gone. And do you know--the
+plants seem to enjoy it as much as I do? They seem to grow better here
+than I could ever coax them to do in the front yard. But that's probably
+because they get the slops from the kitchen, and the soap-suds, every
+wash-day. It doesn't seem as if I worked among them at all. It's just
+play. The fresh air of outdoors does me more good, I'm sure, than all
+the doctors' tonics. And I'm not the only one in the family that enjoys
+them. The children take a good deal of pride in 'mother's garden,' and
+my husband took time, one day, in the busiest part of the season, to put
+up that frame by the door, to train Morning Glories over."
+
+In this ideal home-garden were old-fashioned Madonna Lilies, such as I
+had not seen for years, and Bouncing Bets, ragged and saucy as ever, and
+Southernwood, that gave off spicy odors every time one touched it, and
+Aquilegias in blue and white and red, Life Everlasting, and Moss Pink,
+and that most delicious of all old-fashioned garden flowers, the Spice
+Pink, with its fringed petals marked with maroon, as if some wayside
+artist had touched each one with a brush dipped in that color for the
+simple mischief of the thing, and Hollyhocks, Rockets--almost all the
+old "stand-bys." There was not one "new" flower there. If it had been,
+it would have seemed out of place. The Morning Glories were just getting
+well under way, and were only half-way up the door-frame, but I could
+see, with my mind's eye, what a beautiful awning they would make a
+little later. I could imagine them peering into the kitchen, like saucy,
+fun-loving children, and laughing good-morning to the woman who "loved
+flowers so well she couldn't get along without a few."
+
+You see, she was successful with them because she loved them. Because of
+that, the labor she bestowed upon them was play, not work. They were
+friends of hers, and friendship never begrudges anything that gives
+proof of its existence in a practical way. And the flowers, grateful for
+the friendship which manifested itself in so many helpful ways, repaid
+her generously in beauty and brightness and cheer by making themselves a
+part of her daily life.
+
+By all means, have a back-yard garden.
+
+
+
+
+THE WILD GARDEN
+
+A PLEA FOR OUR NATIVE PLANTS
+
+
+Many persons, I find, are under the impression that we have few, if any,
+native flowering plants and shrubs that are worthy a place in the
+home-garden. They have been accustomed to consider them as "wild
+things," and "weeds," forgetting or overlooking the fact that all plants
+are wild things and weeds somewhere. So unfamiliar are they with many of
+our commonest plants that they fail to recognize them when they meet
+them outside their native haunts. Some years ago I transplanted a
+Solidago,--better known as a "Golden Rod,"--from a fence-corner of the
+pasture, and gave it a place in the home-garden. There it grew
+luxuriantly, and soon became a great plant that sent up scores of stalks
+each season as high as a man's head, every one of them crowned with a
+plume of brilliant yellow flowers. The effect was simply magnificent.
+
+One day an old neighbor came along, and stopped to chat with me as I
+worked among my plants.
+
+"That's a beauty," he said as he leaned across the fence near the Golden
+Rod. "I don't know's I ever saw anything like it before. I reckon, now,
+you paid a good deal of money for that plant."
+
+"How much do you think it cost me?" I asked.
+
+"Oh, I don't know," he answered, looking at the plant admiringly, and
+then at some of foreign origin, near-by. He knew something about the
+value of these, as he had one of them growing in his garden. He seemed
+to be making a mental calculation, based on the relative beauty of the
+plants, and presently he said:
+
+"I ain't much of a judge of such things, but I wouldn't wonder if you
+paid as much as three--mebby four--an' like's not five dollars for it."
+
+"The plant cost me nothing but the labor of bringing it from the
+pasture," I answered. "Don't you know what it is? There's any quantity
+of it back of your barn, I notice."
+
+"You don't mean to say that's yaller-weed," exclaimed the old gentleman,
+with a disgusted look on his face. "I wouldn't have it in _my_ yard.
+We've got weeds enough 'thout settin' 'em out". He went away with a
+look on his face that made me think he felt as if he had been imposed
+on.
+
+While it is true, in many instances, that "familiarity breeds contempt,"
+it is equally true that familiarity without prejudice would open our
+eyes to the fact that beauty exists all about us--in lane, and field,
+and roadside, and forest. We are not aware of the prevalence of it until
+we go in search of it. When we go out with "the seeing eye," we find it
+everywhere. Nothing is so plentiful or so cheap as beauty to the lover
+of the beautiful. It may be had for the taking. We have fallen into the
+habit of looking to foreign lands for plants with which to beautify our
+gardens, thus neglecting and ignoring the beauty at our own doors. A
+shrub with a long name and a good big price attached will win our
+admiration, while a native plant, vastly more desirable, will be wholly
+overlooked. It ought not to be so. "Home first, the world afterward" is
+the motto of many patriotic men and women, and it ought to be the motto
+of the lover of the beautiful in plant-life when he is seeking for
+something with which to ornament the home-grounds.
+
+Many persons have, however, become greatly interested in our native
+plants, and it is apparent that the interest of the masses in whatever
+is beautiful is steadily increasing. The people are being educated to a
+keener appreciation of beauty than ever before. It is encouraging to
+know that a demand has sprung up for shrubs and plants of American
+origin--a demand so large, already, that many nurserymen advertise
+collections of native plants, some of them quite extensive. Appreciation
+of true beauty is putting a value into things which have heretofore had
+no idea of value connected with them.
+
+The dominant idea I had in mind, when this chapter was planned, was that
+of enlisting the boys and girls in the work of making a collection of
+native plants. I would have them make what might properly be called a
+wild garden. But I would not confine the undertaking to the boys and
+girls. I would interest the man or woman who has a home to make
+beautiful in the material that is to be found on every hand, waiting to
+be utilized. Such a garden can be made of great educational value, and,
+at the same time, quite as ornamental as the garden that contains
+nothing but foreign plants. It can be made to assist in the development
+of patriotic as well as æsthetic ideas. It can be made to stimulate a
+healthy rivalry among the boys and girls, as well as the "children of a
+larger growth," as to whose collection shall be most complete. In the
+care and culture of these plants a skill and knowledge may be attained
+that will be of much benefit to them in the future, and possibly to the
+world. Who knows? We may have among us a young Linnæus, or a Humboldt,
+and the making of a wild garden may tend to the discovery and
+development of a talent which coming years may make us proud to do honor
+to the possessor of.
+
+I would suggest the formation of a wild-garden society in each country
+village and neighborhood. Organize expeditions into the surrounding
+country in search of shrubs and plants. Such excursions can be made as
+delightful as a picnic. Take with you a good-sized basket, to contain
+the plants you gather, and some kind of a tool to dig the plants
+with--and your dinner. Lift the plants very carefully, with enough earth
+about them to keep their roots moist. On no account should their roots
+be allowed to get dry. If this happens you might as well throw them
+away, at once, as no amount of after-attention will undo the damage that
+is done by neglect to carry out this advice.
+
+[Illustration: PORCH BOX]
+
+The search for plants should begin early in the season if they are to be
+transplanted in spring, for it would not be safe to attempt their
+removal after they have begun to make active growth. April is a good
+time to look up your plants, and May a good time to bring them home.
+Later on, when you come across a plant that seems a desirable addition
+to your collection, mark the place where it grows, and transplant to the
+home grounds in fall, after its leaves have ripened.
+
+In transplanting shrubs and herbaceous plants, study carefully the
+conditions under which they have grown, and aim to make the conditions
+under which they _are to grow_ as similar to the original ones as
+possible. Of course you will be able to do this only approximately, in
+most instances, but come as near it as you can, for much of your success
+depends on this. You can give your plants a soil similar to that in
+which they have been growing, and generally, by a little planning, you
+can arrange for exposure to sunshine, or a shaded location, according to
+the nature of the plants you make use of. Very often it is possible to
+so locate moisture-loving plants that they can have the damp soil so
+many of them need, by planting them in low places or depressions where
+water stands for some time after a rain, while those which prefer a dry
+soil can be given places on knolls and stony places from which water
+runs off readily. In order to do this part of the work well it will be
+necessary to study your plants carefully before removing them from their
+home in the wood or field. Aim to make the change as easy as possible
+for them. This can only be done by imitating natural conditions--in
+other words, the conditions under which they have been growing up to the
+time when you undertake their domestication.
+
+Not knowing, at the start, the kind of plants our collection will
+contain, as it grows, we can have no definite plan to work to.
+Consequently there will be a certain unavoidable lack of system in the
+arrangement of the wild garden. But this may possibly be one of the
+chief charms of it, after a little. A garden formed on this plan--or
+lack of plan--will seem to have evolved itself, and the utter absence of
+all formality will make it a more cunning imitation of Nature's methods
+than it would ever be if we began it with the intention of imitating
+her.
+
+Among our early-flowering native plants worthy a place in any garden
+will be found the Dogwoods, the Plums, the Crab-apple, and the wild
+Rose. Smaller plants, like the Trillium, the Houstonia, the Bloodroot,
+the Claytonia and the Hepatica, will work in charmingly in the
+foreground. Between them can be used many varieties of Fern, if the
+location is shaded somewhat, as it should be to suit the flowering
+plants I have named.
+
+Among the summer-flowering sorts we have Aquilegia, Daisy, Coreopsis,
+Cranesbill, Eupatorium, Meadow Sweet, Lily, Helianthus, Enothera,
+Rudbeckia, Vervain, Veronia, Lobelia and many others that grow here and
+there, but are not found in all parts of the country, as those I have
+named are, for the most part.
+
+Among the shrubs are Elder, Spirea, Clethra, Sumach, Dogwood, and others
+equally as desirable.
+
+Among the late bloomers are the Solidagos (Golden Rod), Asters,
+Helenium, Ironweed, and others which continue to bloom until cold
+weather is at hand.
+
+Among the desirable vines are the Ampelopsis, which vies with the Sumach
+in richness of color in fall, the Bittersweet, with its profusion of
+fruitage as brilliant as flowers, and the Clematis, beautiful in bloom,
+and quite as attractive later, when its seeds take on their peculiar
+feathery appendages that make the plant look as if a gray plume had been
+torn apart and scattered over the plant, portions of it adhering to
+every branch in the most airy, graceful manner imaginable.
+
+Though I have named only our most familiar wild plants, it will be
+observed that the list is quite a long one. No one need be afraid of not
+being able to obtain plants enough to stock a good-sized garden. The
+trouble will be, in most instances, to find room for all the plants you
+would like to have represented in your collection, after you become
+thoroughly interested in the delightful work of making it. The
+attraction of it will increase as the collection increases, and as you
+discover what a wealth of material for garden-making we have at our very
+doors, without ever having dreamed of its existence, you will be tempted
+to exceed the limitations of the place because of the embarrassment of
+riches which makes a decision between desirable plants difficult. You
+can have but few of them, but you would like all.
+
+
+
+
+THE WINTER GARDEN
+
+
+Most persons who are the owners of gardens seem to be under the
+impression that we must close the summer volume of Nature's book at the
+end of the season, and that it must remain closed until the spring of
+another year invites us to a re-perusal of its attractive pages. In
+other words, that we are not expected to derive much pleasure from the
+garden for six months of the year.
+
+There is no good reason why the home-grounds should not be attractive
+the year round if we plant for winter as well as summer effect.
+
+True, we cannot have flowers in winter, but we can secure color-effects
+with but little trouble that will make good, to a considerable extent,
+the lack of floral color. Without these the winter landscape is cold,
+though beautiful, and to most persons it will seem dreary and monotonous
+in its chill whiteness. But to those who have "the seeing eye," there
+are always elements of wonderful beauty in it, and there is ample
+material at hand with which to give it the touches of brightness that
+can make it almost as attractive as it is in June.
+
+If the reader will carefully study the two illustrations accompanying
+this chapter, he will have to admit that the winter garden has many
+attractive features that the summer garden cannot boast of. These
+illustrations are summer and winter views of the same spot, taken from
+one of our public parks. The summer view shows a wealth of foliage and
+bloom, and is one of Nature's beauty-spots that we never tire of. But
+the winter view has in it a suggestion of breadth and distance that adds
+wonderfully to the charm of the scene, brought out as it is by the naked
+branches against the sky, and glimpses of delightful vistas farther on,
+which are entirely hidden by the foliage that interferes with the
+outlook in the summer picture. Note how the evergreens stand out sharply
+against the background, and how clearly every shrub--every branch--is
+outlined by the snow. It is one of Nature's etchings. Whatever color
+there is in the landscape is heightened and emphasized by strong, vivid
+contrast. There are little touches of exquisite beauty in this picture
+that cannot be found in the other.
+
+Most of us plant a few evergreens about our homes. Sometimes we are
+fortunate enough to locate them where they will prove effective. Oftener
+we put them where they have no chance to display their charms to good
+effect. They do not belong near the house--least of all in the "front
+yard." They must be admired at a distance which will soften their
+coarseness of habit. You must be far enough away from them to be able to
+take in their charms of form and color at a glance, to observe the
+graceful sweep of their branches against the snow, and to fully bring
+out the strength and richness of color, none of which things can be done
+at close range. Looked at from a proper and respectful distance, every
+good specimen of evergreen will afford a great deal of pleasure. But it
+might be made to afford a great deal more if we were to set about it in
+the right way. Why not make our evergreens serve as backgrounds against
+which to bring out colors that rival, to some extent, the flowers of
+summer?
+
+Have you never taken a tramp along the edge of the woodland in winter,
+and come suddenly upon a group of Alders? What brightness seemed to
+radiate from their spikes of scarlet berries! The effect is something
+like that of a flame, so intense is it. It seems to radiate through the
+winter air with a thrill of positive warmth. So strong an impression do
+they make upon the eye that you see them long after you have passed
+them. They photograph themselves there. Why should we not transplant
+this bit of woodland glory to the garden, and heighten the effect of it
+by giving it an evergreen as a background? Its scarlet fire, seen
+against the dark greenery of Spruce or Arbor Vitæ, would make the winter
+garden fairly glow with color.
+
+I have seen the red-branched Willow planted near an evergreen, and the
+contrast of color brought out every branch so keenly that it seemed
+chiselled from coral. The effect was exquisite.
+
+Train Celastrus _scandens_, better known as Bittersweet, where its
+pendant clusters of red and orange can show against evergreens, and you
+produce an effect that can be equalled by few flowers.
+
+The Berberry is an exceedingly useful shrub with which to work up vivid
+color-effects in winter. It shows attractively among other shrubs, is
+charming when seen against a drift of snow, but is never quite so
+effective as when its richness of coloring is emphasized by contrast by
+the sombre green of a Spruce or Balsam.
+
+Our native Cranberry--Viburnum _opulus_--is one of our best
+berry-bearing shrubs. It holds its crimson fruit well in winter. Planted
+among--not against--evergreens, it is wonderfully effective because of
+its tall and stately habit.
+
+Bayberry (Myrica _cerifera_) is another showy-fruited shrub. Its
+grayish-white berries are thickly studded along its brown branches, and
+are retained through the winter. If this is planted side by side with
+the Alder, the effect will be found very pleasing.
+
+The Snowberry (Symphoricarpus _racemosus_) has been cultivated for
+nearly a hundred years in our gardens, and probably stands at the head
+of the list of white-fruited shrubs. If this is planted in front of
+evergreens the purity of its color is brought out charmingly. Group it
+with the red-barked Willow, the Alder, or the Berberry, and you secure a
+contrast that makes the effect strikingly delightful--a symphony in
+green, scarlet, and white. If to this combination you add the blue of a
+winter sky or the glow of a winter sunset, who can say there is not
+plenty of color in a winter landscape?
+
+The value of the Mountain Ash in winter decoration is just beginning to
+be understood. If it retained its fruit throughout the entire season it
+would be one of our most valuable plants, but the birds claim its
+crimson fruit as their especial property, and it is generally without a
+berry by Christmas in localities where robins and other berry-eating
+birds linger late in the season. Up to that time it is exceedingly
+attractive, especially if it is planted where it can have the benefit of
+strong contrast to bring out the rich color of its great clusters.
+Because of its tall and stately habit it will be found very effective
+when planted between evergreens, with other bright-colored shrubs in the
+foreground.
+
+There are many shrubs whose berries are blue, and purple, and black.
+While these are not as showy as those of scarlet and white, they are
+very attractive, and can be made extremely useful in the winter garden.
+They should not be neglected, because they widen the range of color to
+such an extent that the charge of monotony of tone in the winter
+landscape is ineffective.
+
+The Ramanas Rose (R. _lucida_) has very brilliant clusters of crimson
+fruit which retains its beauty long after the holidays. This shrub is
+really more attractive in winter than in summer.
+
+It will be understood, from what I said at the beginning of this
+chapter, that I put high value on the decorative effect of leafless
+shrubs. Their branches, whether traced against a background of sky or
+snow, make an embroidery that has about it a charm that summer cannot
+equal in delicacy. A Bittersweet, clambering over bush or tree, and
+displaying its many clusters of red and orange against a background of
+leafless branches, with the intense blue of winter sky showing through
+them, makes a picture that is brilliant in the extreme, when you
+consider the relative values of the colors composing it. Then you will
+discover that the charm is not confined to the color of the fruit, but
+to the delicate tracery of branch and twig, as well.
+
+
+
+
+WINDOW AND VERANDA BOXES
+
+
+Somebody had a bright thought when the window-box came into existence.
+The only wonder is that persons who were obliged to forego the pleasure
+of a garden did not think it out long ago. It is one of the
+"institutions" that have come to stay. We see more of them every year.
+Those who have gardens--or could have them, if they wanted them--seem to
+have a decided preference for the window-box substitute.
+
+There is a good reason for this: The window-box brings the garden to
+one's room, while the garden obliges one to make it a visit in order to
+enjoy the beauty in it. With the window-box the upstair room can be made
+as pleasant as those below, and the woman in the kitchen can enjoy the
+companionship of flowers while she busies herself with her housewifely
+duties, if she does not care to make herself a back-yard garden such as
+I have spoken of in a preceding chapter. And the humble home that has
+no room for flowers outside its walls, the homes in the congested city,
+away up, up, up above the soil in which a few flowers might possibly be
+coaxed to grow, if man thought less of gain and more of beauty, can be
+made more like what home ought to be, with but little trouble and
+expense, by giving these boxes a chance to do their good work at their
+windows. Blessed be the window-box!
+
+Many persons, however, fail to attain success in the cultivation of
+plants in boxes at the window-sill, and their failures have given rise
+to the impression in the minds of those who have watched their
+undertaking, that success with them is very problematical. "It _looks_
+easy," said a woman to me last season, "when you see somebody else's box
+just running over with vines, but when you come to make the attempt for
+yourself you wake up to the fact that there's a knack to it that most of
+us fail to discover. I've tried my best, for the last three years, to
+have such boxes as my neighbor has, and I haven't found out what's wrong
+yet. I invest in the plants that are told me to be best adapted to
+window-box culture. I plant them, and then I coax them and coddle them.
+I fertilize them and I shower them, but they stubbornly refuse to do
+well. They _start off_ all right, but by the time they ought to be doing
+great things they begin to look rusty, and it isn't long before they
+look so sickly and forlorn that I feel like putting them out of their
+misery by dumping them in the ash-heap."
+
+Now this woman's experience is the experience of many other women. She
+thinks,--and they think,--that they lack the "gift" that enables some
+persons to grow flowers successfully while others fail utterly with
+them. They haven't "the knack." Now, as I have said elsewhere in this
+book, there's no such thing as "a knack" in flower-growing. Instead of
+"a knack" it's a "know-how." Ninety-nine times out of a hundred failure
+with window-boxes is due to just one thing: They let their plants die
+simply because they do not give them water enough.
+
+Liberal watering is the "know-how" that a person must have to make a
+success of growing; good plants in window and veranda boxes. Simply
+that, and nothing more.
+
+The average woman isn't given to "studying into things" as much as the
+average man is, so she often fails to get at the whys and wherefores of
+many happenings. She sees the plants in her boxes dying slowly, but she
+fails to take note of the fact that evaporation from these boxes is
+very rapid. It could not be otherwise because of their exposure to wind
+and air on all sides. She applies water in quantities only sufficient to
+wet the surface of the soil, and because that looks moist she concludes
+there must be sufficient moisture below and lets it go at that.
+Examination would show her that an inch below the surface the soil in
+the box is very, very dry,--so dry, in fact, that no roots could find
+sustenance in it. This explains why plants "start off" well. While young
+and small their roots are close to the surface, and as long as they
+remain in that condition they grow well enough, but as soon as they
+attempt to send their roots down--as all plants do, after the earlier
+stages of growth--they find no moisture, and in a short time they die.
+
+If, instead of applying a basinful of water, a pailful were used, daily,
+all the soil in a box of ordinary size would be made moist all through,
+and so long as a supply of water is kept up there is no reason why just
+as fine plants cannot be grown in boxes as in pots, or the garden beds.
+There is no danger of overwatering, for all surplus water will run off
+through the holes in the box, provided for drainage. Therefore make it a
+rule to apply to your window-box, every day, throughout the season,
+enough water to thoroughly saturate all the soil in it. If this is done,
+you will come to the conclusion that at last you have discovered the
+"knack" upon which success depends.
+
+I am often asked what kind of boxes I consider best. To which I reply:
+"The kind that comes handiest." It isn't the box that your plants grow
+in that counts for much. It's the care you give. Of course the soil
+ought to be fairly rich, though a soil of ordinary fertility can be made
+to answer all purposes if a good dose of plant food is given
+occasionally. Care should be taken, however, not to make too frequent
+use of it, as it is an easy matter to force a growth that will be weak
+because of its rapidity, and from which there may be a disastrous
+reaction after a little. The result to aim at is a healthy growth, and
+when you secure that, be satisfied with it.
+
+The idea prevails to a considerable extent that one must make use of
+plants specially adapted to window-box culture. Now the fact is--almost
+any kind of plant can be grown in these boxes, there being no "special
+adaption" to this purpose, except as to profusion of bloom and habit of
+growth. Drooping plants are desirable to trail over the sides of the
+box, and add that touch of grace which is characteristic of all
+vines. Plants that bloom freely throughout the season should be
+chosen in preference to shy and short-season bloomers. Geraniums,
+Petunias, Verbenas, Fuchsias, Salvias, Heliotropes, Paris Daisies--all
+these are excellent.
+
+[Illustration: PORCH BOX]
+
+If one cares to depend on foliage for color, most pleasing results can
+be secured by making use of the plants of which mention has been made in
+the chapter on Carpet-Bedding.
+
+Vines that will give satisfaction are Glechoma, green, with yellow
+variegation--Vinca _Harrisonii_, also green and yellow, Moneywort,
+German Ivy, Tradescantia, Thunbergia, and Othonna. A combination of
+plants with richly-colored foliage is especially desirable for boxes on
+the porch or veranda, where showiness seems to be considered as more
+important than delicacy of tint or refinement of quality. In these boxes
+larger plants can be used than one would care to give place to at the
+window. Here is where Cannas and Caladiums will be found very effective.
+
+Ferns, like the Boston and Pierson varieties, are excellent for not too
+sunny window-boxes because of their graceful drooping and spreading
+habit. They combine well with pink-and-white Fuchsias, rose-colored Ivy
+Geraniums, and the white Paris Daisy. Petunias--the single sorts
+only--are very satisfactory, because they bloom so freely and
+constantly, and have enough of the droop in them to make them as useful
+in covering the sides of the box as they are in spreading over its
+surface. If pink and white varieties are used to the exclusion of the
+mottled and variegated kinds the effect will be found vastly more
+pleasing than where there is an indiscriminate jumbling of colors.
+
+A foot in width, a foot in depth, and the length of the window frame to
+which it is to be attached is a good size for the average window-box.
+Great care must be taken to see that it is securely fastened to the
+frame, and that it is given a strong support, for the amount of earth it
+will contain will be of considerable weight when well saturated with
+water.
+
+Veranda boxes, in which larger plants are to be used, should be
+considerably deeper and wider than the ordinary window-box. Any box of
+the size desired that is substantial enough to hold a sufficient amount
+of soil will answer all purposes, therefore it is not necessary to
+invest in expensive goods unless you have so much money that economy is
+no object to you. If your plants grow as they ought to no one can tell,
+by midsummer, whether your box cost ten dollars or ten cents. If it is
+of wood, give it a coat of some neutral-colored paint before you fill
+it.
+
+
+
+
+SPRING WORK IN THE GARDEN
+
+
+Not much actual work can be done in the garden, at the north, before the
+middle of April. But a good deal can be done toward getting ready for
+active work as soon as conditions become favorable.
+
+Right here let me say that it is a most excellent plan to do all that
+can be done to advantage as early in the season as possible, for the
+reason that when the weather becomes warm, work will come with a rush,
+and in the hurry of it quite likely some of it will be slighted. Always
+aim to keep ahead of your work.
+
+I believe, as I have several times said, in planning things. Your garden
+may be small--so small that you do not think it worth while to give much
+consideration to it in the way of making plans for it--but it will pay
+you to think over the arrangement of it in advance. "Making garden"
+doesn't consist simply in spading up a bed, and putting seed into the
+ground. Thought should be given to the location and arrangement of each
+kind of flower you make use of. The haphazard location of any plant is
+likely to do it injustice, and the whole garden suffers in consequence.
+
+Make a mental picture of your garden as you would like to have it, and
+then take an inventory of the material you have to work with, and see
+how near you can come to the garden you have in mind. Try to find the
+proper place for every flower. Study up on habit, and color, and season
+of bloom, and you will not be likely to get things into the wrong place
+as you will be almost sure to do if you do not give considerable thought
+to this matter. There should be orderliness and system in the garden as
+well as in the house, and this can only come by knowing your plants, and
+so locating them that each one of them will have the opportunity of
+making the most of itself.
+
+Beds can be spaded as soon as the frost is out of the ground, as advised
+in the chapter on The Garden of Annuals, but, as was said in that
+chapter, it is not advisable to do more with them at that time. If the
+ground is worked over when wet, the only result is that you get a good
+many small clods to take the place of large ones. Nothing is gained by
+being in a hurry with this part of the work. Pulverization of the soil
+can only be accomplished successfully after it has parted with the
+excessive moisture consequent on melting snows and spring rains.
+Therefore let it lie as thrown up by the spade until it is in a
+condition to crumble readily under the application of hoe or rake.
+
+Shrubs can be reset as soon as frost is out of the ground. Remove all
+defective roots when this is done. Make the soil in which you plant them
+quite rich, and follow the instruction given in the chapter on Shrubs as
+carefully as possible, in the work of resetting.
+
+If any changes are to be made in the border, plan for them now. Decide
+just what you want to do. Don't allow any guesswork about it. If you
+"think out" these things the home grounds will improve year by year, and
+you will have a place to be proud of. But the planless system which so
+many follow never gives satisfactory results. It gives one the
+impression of something that started for somewhere but never arrived at
+its destination.
+
+Old border plants which have received little or no attention for years
+will be greatly benefited by transplanting at this season. Cut away all
+the older roots, and make use of none that are not strong and healthy.
+Give them a rich soil. Most of them will have renewed themselves by
+midsummer.
+
+If you do not care to take up the old plants, cut about them with a
+sharp knife, and remove as many of the old roots as possible. This is
+often almost as effective as transplanting, and it does not involve as
+much labor.
+
+The lawn should be given attention at this season. Rake off all
+unsightly refuse that may have collected on it during winter. Give it an
+application of some good fertilizer. It is quite important that this
+should be done early in the season, as grass begins to grow almost as
+soon as frost is out of the ground, and the sward should have something
+to feed on as soon as it is ready for work.
+
+Go over all the shrubs and see if any need attention in the way of
+pruning. But don't touch them with the pruning knife unless they really
+need it. Cut out old wood and weak branches, if there are any, and thin,
+if too thick, but leave the bush to train itself. It knows more about
+this than you do!
+
+Get racks and trellises ready for summer use. These are generally made
+on the spur of the moment, out of whatever material comes handiest at
+the time they are needed. Such hurriedly constructed things are pretty
+sure to prove eyesores. The gardener who takes pride in his work and his
+garden will not be satisfied with makeshifts, but will see that
+whatever is needed, along this line, is well made, and looks so well
+that he has no reason to be ashamed of it. It should be painted a dark
+green or some other neutral color.
+
+Rake the mulch away from the plants that were given protection in fall
+as soon as the weather gets warm enough to start them to growing. Or it
+can be dug into the soil about them to act as a fertilizer. Get it out
+of sight, for it always gives the garden an untidy effect if left about
+the plants.
+
+Go over the border plants and uproot all grass that has secured a
+foothold there. A space of a foot should be left about all shrubs and
+perennials in which nothing should be allowed to grow.
+
+If any plants seem out of place, take them up and put them where they
+belong. If you cannot find a place where they seem to fit in, discard
+them. The garden will be better off without them, no matter how
+desirable they are, than with them if their presence creates
+color-discord.
+
+Peonies can be moved to advantage now. If you cut about the old clump
+and lift a good deal of earth with it, and do not interfere with its
+roots, no harm will be done. But if you mutilate its roots, or expose
+them, you need not expect any flowers from the plant for a season or
+two.
+
+Get stakes ready for the Dahlias. These should be painted some
+unobtrusive color. If this is done, and they are taken proper care of in
+fall, they will last for years. This is true of racks and trellises.
+
+Provide yourself with a hoe, an iron-toothed rake, a weeding-hook, a
+trowel for transplanting, a wheel-barrow, a spade, and a watering-pot.
+See that the latter is made from galvanized iron if you want it to last.
+Tin pots will rust out in a short time.
+
+Take your watering-pot to the tinsmith and have him fit it out with an
+extension spout--one that can be slipped on to the end of the spout that
+comes with the pot. Let this be at least two feet in length. This will
+enable you to apply water to the roots of plants standing well back in
+the border, or across beds, and get it just where it will do the most
+good, but a short-spouted plant will not do this unless you take a good
+many unnecessary steps in making the application.
+
+Be sure to send in your orders for seed and plants early in the season.
+Have everything on hand, ready for putting into the ground when the
+proper time comes to do this.
+
+
+
+
+SUMMER WORK IN THE GARDEN
+
+
+If weeds are kept down through the early part of the season, there will
+not be a great deal of weeding to do in midsummer. Still, we cannot
+afford to take it for granted that they require no attention, for they
+are most aggressive things, and so persistent are they that they will
+take advantage of every opportunity for perpetuating themselves.
+Therefore be on the lookout for them, and as soon as you discover one
+that has thought to escape your notice by hiding behind some flowering
+plant, uproot it. One weed will furnish seed enough to fill the entire
+garden with plants next year if let alone.
+
+If the season happens to be very dry, some of your plants--Dahlias, for
+instance,--will have to be watered if you want them to amount to
+anything. These must have moisture at their roots in order to flower
+well.
+
+Other plants may be able to get along with a mulch of grass-clippings
+from the lawn. Most of our annuals will stand quite a drouth.
+
+If one is connected with a system of waterworks it is an easy matter
+to tide a garden over a drouth. But where there is nothing but the pump
+to depend on for a supply of water, I would not advise beginning
+artificial watering except in rare cases, like that of the Dahlia. We
+always find that so much work is required in supplying our plants from
+the pump that after a little we abandon the undertaking, and the result
+is that the plants we set out to be kind to are left in a worse
+condition, when we give up our spasmodic attention, than they would have
+been in if we had not begun it.
+
+It is well to use the hoe constantly if the season is a dry one. Keep
+the surface of the soil open that it may take in all the moisture
+possible. On no account allow it to become crusted over.
+
+Seed of perennials can be sown now to furnish plants for flowering next
+season.
+
+Look to the Dahlias, and make sure they are properly staked.
+
+Be on the lookout for black beetle on Aster and Chrysanthemum. As soon
+as one is discovered apply Nicoticide, and apply it thoroughly, all over
+the plant. Promptness is demanded in fighting this voracious pest.
+
+During the latter part of summer, when the extreme hot weather that we
+have at the north sets in, cut away nearly all the top of the
+Pansy-plants. This will give the plants a chance to rest during the
+season when they are not equal to the task of flowering, because of the
+hot, dry weather which is so trying to them. Along in September, when
+the weather becomes cooler, they will take a fresh start and give us
+fine flowers all through the fall.
+
+Look over the perennials and satisfy yourself that there is
+color-harmony everywhere. If you find a discord anywhere, mark the plant
+that makes it for removal later on.
+
+Be sure to keep all seed from developing on the Sweet Peas. This you
+_must_ do if you would have a good crop of flowers during the fall
+months.
+
+If any plants seem too thick, sacrifice some of them promptly. No plant
+can develop itself satisfactorily if it is crowded.
+
+Poor plants will find their way into all collections. If you find one in
+yours, remove it at once. There are so many good ones at our disposal
+that we cannot afford to give place, even for a season, to an inferior
+kind.
+
+Let neatness prevail everywhere. Gather up dead leaves and fallen
+flowers, cut away the stalks of plants upon which no more flowers can be
+expected, and keep the walks looking as if you expected visitors at any
+time, and were determined not to be caught in untidy garments.
+
+While the good gardener can always find something to do in the garden,
+he will not have as much work on his hands at this season as at any
+other, therefore it is the time in which he can get the greatest amount
+of pleasure from his flowers, and in proportion to his care of them
+earlier in the season will be the pleasure they afford now.
+
+
+
+
+FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN
+
+
+Because the growth of grass on the lawn is not as luxuriant and rapid in
+fall as it is in midsummer, is no reason why the lawn should be
+neglected after summer is over. It should be mowed whenever the grass
+gets too tall to look well, clear up to the end of the season. The neat
+and attractive appearance of the home-grounds depends more upon the lawn
+than anything else about them. It is a good plan to fertilize it well in
+fall, thus enabling the roots of the sward to store up nutriment for the
+coming season. Fine bonemeal is as good for this purpose as anything I
+know of except barnyard manure, and it is superior to that in one
+respect--it does not contain the seeds of weeds.
+
+Go over the garden before the end of the season and gather up all plants
+that have completed their work. If we neglect to give attention to the
+beds now that the flowering-period is over, a general appearance of
+untidiness will soon dominate everything. Much of the depressing effect
+of late fall is due to this lack of attention. The prompt removal of all
+unsightly objects will keep the grounds looking _clean_ after the season
+has passed its prime, and we all know what the Good Book's estimate of
+cleanliness is.
+
+Seedlings of such perennials as Hollyhock, Delphinium, and other plants
+of similar character, ought to be transplanted to the places they are to
+occupy next season by the last of September. If care is taken not to
+disturb their roots when you lift them they will receive no check.
+
+If you give your Hybrid Perpetual Roses a good, sharp cutting-back early
+in September, and manure the soil about them well, you may reasonably
+expect a few fine flowers from them later on. And what is more
+delightful than a perfect Rose gathered from your own garden just at the
+edge of winter?
+
+Perennials can be divided and reset, if necessary, immediately after
+they have ripened off the growth of the present year. If this work is
+done now, there will be just so much less to do in spring.
+
+Before the coming of cold weather all tools used in gardening operations
+should be gathered up and stored under cover. If any repairs are
+needed, make note of them, and see that the work is done in winter, so
+that everything needed in spring may be in readiness for use. It is a
+good plan to give all wood-work a coat of paint at the time it is stored
+away, and to go over the metal part of every tool with a wash of
+vaseline to prevent rust.
+
+Have a general house-cleaning before winter sets in. Cut away the stalks
+of the perennials. Pull up all annuals. Rake up the leaves, and add
+everything of this kind to the compost heap. All garden refuse should
+find its way there, to be transmuted by the alchemy of sun and rain, and
+the disintegrating forces of nature into that most valuable of soil
+constituents--humus. Let nothing that has any value in it be wasted.
+
+After hard frosts have killed the tops of Dahlias, Cannas, Caladiums and
+Gladioluses, their roots should be dug, on some warm and sunny day, and
+prepared for storage in the cellar or closet. Spread them out in the
+sunshine, and leave them there until the soil that was dug with them is
+dry enough to crumble away from them. At night cover with something to
+keep out the cold, and expose them to the curative effects of the sun
+next day. It may be necessary to do this several days in succession. The
+great amount of moisture which they contain when first dug should be
+given a chance to evaporate to a considerable extent before it will be
+safe to put them away for the winter. Cut off the old stalks close to
+the root before storing.
+
+While clearing the beds of dead plants and leaves be on the lookout for
+insects of various kinds. The cut-worm may still be in evidence, and may
+be found among the rubbish which you gather up. And if found, destroy it
+on the spot. This precaution will go far toward safeguarding plants in
+spring, many of which are annually injured by the depredations of this
+pest.
+
+When you are sure that cold weather is at hand, cover the bulb-bed with
+coarse manure or litter, hay, or straw, as advised in the chapter on The
+Bulb Garden. And give your Roses the protection advised in the chapter
+on The Rose.
+
+Cover Pansies lightly with leaves or evergreen branches. If you have
+mulch enough, apply some to your hardy plants, and next spring note the
+difference between them and the plants which were not given any
+protection.
+
+
+
+
+BY WAY OF POSTSCRIPT
+
+A CHAPTER OF AFTERTHOUGHTS WHICH THE READER CANNOT AFFORD TO MISS
+
+
+[Illustration: PLANTING TO HIDE FOUNDATION WALLS]
+
+Think things out for yourself. Do not try to copy anybody else's garden,
+as so many attempt to do. Be original. What you see on your neighbor's
+home grounds may suggest something similar for your own grounds, but be
+content with the idea suggested. He may not have a patent on his own
+working-out of the idea--indeed, the idea may not have been one of his
+originating--but the manner in which he has expressed it is his own and
+you should respect his right to it. Imitation of what others have done,
+or are doing, is likely to spoil everything. If the best you can do is
+to copy your neighbor's work servilely in all its details, turn your
+attention to something else. If all the flower-gardens in the
+neighborhood were simply duplicates of each other in material and
+arrangement, the uniformity of them would be so monotonous in effect
+that it would be a relief to find a place that was without a garden.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Never imitate anything that you see on the grounds of wealthy people
+with cheap and inferior material. The result will be a sham that will
+deceive no one, and you will soon tire of it, and the sooner the better.
+Be honest. If you have only cheap material to work with, be satisfied
+with unambitious undertakings. Let them be in keeping with what you have
+to work with--simple, unpretentious, and without any attempt in the way
+of deception. The humblest home can be made attractive by holding fast
+to the principle of honesty in everything that is done about it. It is
+not necessary to imitate in order to make it attractive. Think out
+things for yourself, and endeavor to do the best you can with the
+material at hand, and under the conditions that prevail, and be content
+with that. The result will afford you vastly more satisfaction, even if
+it does not measure up to what you would like, than you can possibly
+realize by imitating another's work. There is a deal of pleasure in
+being able to say about one's home or garden, "It may not be as fine as
+my neighbor's, but, such as it is, it is all mine. I have put myself
+into it. It may be plain and humble, but--there's honesty in it." And
+that is a feature you have a right to be proud of.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Never make the mistake of neglecting good old plants for the sake of
+something new, simply because it is new. Old plants--plants that have
+held their own against all newcomers--are the ones to depend on. The
+fact that they _have_ held their own is sufficient proof of their
+merits. Had they been inferior in any respect they would have dropped
+from notice long ago, like the "novelties" that aspired to take their
+places. Old plants are like old friends, old wine--all the better
+because of their age. There's something substantial about them. We do
+not tire of them. We know what to expect of them, and they never
+disappoint us.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Never make the mistake of thinking the shape of a bed deserves more
+consideration than what you put into the bed. It's the flower that
+deserves attention,--not the bed it grows in. It isn't treating a flower
+with proper respect to give it secondary place.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Many an amateur gardener tries to have a little of everything, and the
+result is that he has nothing worth speaking of, because quality has
+been sacrificed to quantity. Grow only as many flowers as you can grow
+well, and be wise in selecting only such kinds as do best under the
+conditions in which they must be grown. Depend upon kinds that have been
+tried and not found wanting unless you have a fondness for
+experimenting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No really artistic results can be secured by the use of seeds in which
+all colors are mixed. If you desire harmonious effects, you will have to
+purchase seed in which each color is by itself. A few varieties in which
+there is perfect color-harmony will please you far more than a
+collection in which all the colors of the rainbow are represented. Take
+the Sweet Pea as an illustration of this idea: From a package of mixed
+seed you will get a score of different colors or shades, and many of
+these, though beautiful in themselves, will produce positive discord
+when grown side by side. The eye of the person who has fine color-sense
+will be pained by the lack of harmony. But confine your selection to the
+soft pinks, the delicate lavenders, and the pure whites, and the result
+will be something to delight the artistic eye--restful, harmonious, and
+as pleasing as a strain of exquisite poetry--in fact, a poem in color.
+What is true of the Sweet Pea, in this respect, is equally true of all
+plants which range through a great variety of colors. Bear this in mind
+when you select seeds for your garden of annuals.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Don't throw away any plants that are worth growing. If you have no use
+for them some of your neighbors will doubtless be glad to get them. Give
+them to the poor children of your neighborhood, and tell them how to
+care for them, and you will not only be doing a kind deed but you will
+be putting into the life that needs uplifting and refining influences a
+means of help and education that you little guess the power of for good.
+For every plant is a teacher, and a preacher of the gospel of beauty,
+and its mission is to brighten and broaden every life that comes under
+its influence. All that it asks is an opportunity to fulfill that
+mission.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+If no one cares for the plants you have no use for, give them a place in
+out-of-the-way nooks and corners--in the roadside, even, if there is no
+other place for them. A stock of this kind, to draw upon in case any of
+your old plants fail in winter, will save expense and trouble, and
+prevent bare spots from detracting from the appearance of the home
+grounds. It is always well to have a few plants in reserve for just such
+emergencies as this. Very frequently the odds-and-ends corner of the
+garden is the most attractive feature in it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Many a place is all but spoiled because its owner finds it difficult to
+confine his selection of plants for it to the number it will
+conveniently accommodate. There are so many desirable ones to choose
+from that it is no easy matter to determine which you will have,
+because--you want them all! But one must be governed by the conditions
+that cannot be changed. Unfortunately the home-lot is not elastic. Small
+grounds necessitate small collections if we would avoid cluttering up
+the place in a manner that makes it impossible to grow anything well.
+Shrubs must have elbow-room in order to display their attractions to the
+best advantage. Keep this in mind, and set out only as many as there
+will be room for when they have fully developed. It may cost you a pang
+to discard an old favorite, but often it has to be done out of regard
+for the future welfare of the kinds you feel you _must have_. If you
+overstock your garden, it will give you many pangs to see how the plants
+in it suffer from the effect of crowding. If you cannot have _all_ the
+good things, have the very best of the list, and try to grow them so
+well that they will make up in quality for the lack in quantity. I know
+of a little garden in which but three plants grow, but the owner of them
+gives them such care that these three plants attract more attention from
+passers-by than any other garden on that street.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Be methodical in your garden-work. Keep watch of everything, and when
+you see something that needs doing, do it. And do it well. One secret of
+success in gardening is in doing everything as if it was _the_ one thing
+to be done. Slight nothing.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+For vines that do not grow thick enough to hide everything with their
+foliage, a lattice framework of lath, painted white, is the most
+satisfactory support, because of the pleasing color-contrast between it
+and the plants trained over it. Both support and plant will be
+ornamental, and one will admirably supplement the other. The lattice
+will be an attractive feature of the garden when the vine that grew over
+it is dead, if it is kept neatly painted.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+But for the rampant grower a coarse-meshed wire netting is just as good,
+and considerably less expensive, in the long run, as it will do duty for
+many years, if taken care of at the end of the season. Roll it up and
+put it under cover before the fall rains set in.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The simple fact of newness is nothing in any plant's favor. Unless it
+has real merit, it will not find purchasers after the first season.
+Better wait until you know what a plant is before investing in it. We
+have so many excellent plants with whose good qualities we are familiar
+that it is not necessary to run any risks of this kind.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Many home-owners make the mistake of putting down boardwalks about the
+dwelling and yard. Such a walk is never attractive, and it has not the
+merit of durability, for after a year or two it will need repairs, and
+from that time on it will be a constant source of expense. The
+variegated appearance of a patched-up boardwalk will seriously detract
+from the attractiveness of any garden. It may cost more, at first, to
+put down cement walks,--though I am inclined to doubt this, at the
+present price of lumber--but such walks are good for a lifetime, if
+properly constructed, therefore much cheaper in the end. There can be no
+two opinions as to their superior appearance. Their cool gray color
+brings them into harmony with their surroundings. They are never
+obtrusive. They are easily cleaned, both summer and winter. And the
+home-maker can put them in quite as well as the professional worker in
+cement if he sets out to do so, though he may be longer at the work.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+But _make sure_ about the location of your paths before putting in
+cement walks. That is--be quite sure that you know where you want them
+to be. A boardwalk can be changed at any time with but little trouble
+if you get it in the wrong place, but a cement walk, once down, is down
+for all time, unless you are willing to spend a good deal of hard labor
+in its removal.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Never do spasmodic work in the garden. The unwise gardener neglects what
+needs doing until so much has accumulated that he is forced to give it
+attention, and then he hurries in his efforts to dispose of it, and the
+consequence is that much of it is likely to be so poorly done that
+plants suffer nearly as much from his hasty operations as they did from
+neglect. Do whatever needs doing in a systematic way, and keep ahead of
+your work. Never be driven by it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It is one of the most satisfactory laws of Nature that we can have only
+what we work for. Too many seem to forget this, and think that because a
+flower hasn't a market value, like corn or wheat, it ought to grow
+without any attention on their part. Such persons do not understand the
+real value of a flower, which is none the less because it cannot be
+computed on the basis of a dollars-and-cents calculation.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Man, wife, and all the children ought to work together for whatever adds
+beauty to the home, and nothing is more effective in this line than a
+good flower-garden. I can remember when it was considered an indication
+of weakness for a man to admit that he was fond of flowers. I look back
+with amusement to my own experience in this respect. Because I loved
+flowers so well, when I was a wee bit of a lad, that I attempted to grow
+them, I was often laughed at for being a "girl-boy." "He ought to have
+been a girl," one of my uncles used to say. "You'll have to learn him to
+do sewing and housework." It often stung me to anger to listen to these
+sarcastic remarks, but I am glad that my love for flowers was strong
+enough to keep me at work among them, for I know that I am a better man
+to-day than I would have been had I allowed myself to be ridiculed out
+of my love for them. If the children manifest a desire to have little
+gardens of their own encourage them to do so, and feel sure that the
+cultivation of them will prove to be a strong factor in the development
+of the child mind.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Seedling Hollyhocks almost always look well when winter comes, but in
+spring we find their leaves decaying from the effect of too much
+moisture, and this decay is likely to be communicated to the crown of
+the plant, and that means failure. Of late years I protect my plants by
+inverting small boxes over them. The sides of these boxes are bored full
+of holes to admit air, which must be allowed to circulate freely about
+the plant, or it will smother. I invert a box over the plant after
+filling it with leaves, and draw more leaves about the outside of it.
+This prevents water from coming in contact with the soft, sponge-like
+foliage, and the plant comes out in spring almost as green as it was in
+fall.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Plants can be moved with comparative safety any time during the summer
+if one is careful to disturb their roots as little as possible. Take
+them up with a large amount of soil adhering, and handle so carefully
+that it will not break apart. It is a good plan to apply enough water
+before attempting to lift them to thoroughly saturate all the soil
+containing the roots. This will hold the earth together, and prevent
+exposure of the roots, which is the main thing to guard against.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+After putting the plant in place, apply water liberally, and then mulch
+the soil about it with grass-clippings or manure. Of course removal at
+that season will check the growth of the plant to a considerable extent,
+and probably end its usefulness for the remainder of the season. Unless
+absolutely necessary, I would not attempt the work at this time, for
+spring and fall are the proper seasons for doing it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In a letter recently received a lady asks this question: "Do you believe
+in flower-shows? If you think they help the cause of flower-growing,
+will you kindly tell me how to go to work to organize such a society?"
+
+To the first question I reply: I _do_ believe in flower-shows and
+horticultural societies when they are calculated to increase the love
+and appreciation of flowers _as_ flowers, rather than to call attention
+to the skill of the florist in producing freaks which are only
+attractive as curiosities. I sincerely hope that the day of
+Chrysanthemums a foot across and Roses as large as small Cabbages is on
+the wane.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The thing to do in organizing a floral association is--to paraphrase
+Horace Greeley's famous advice as to the resumption of specie
+payment--to organize! In other words, to get right down to business and
+give the proposed society a start by bringing flower-loving people
+together, and beginning to work without wasting time on unnecessary
+details. If you make use of much "red tape" you will kill the
+undertaking at the outset. Simply form your society and appoint your
+committees, and you will find that the various matters which perplex you
+when looked at in the whole will readily adjust themselves to the
+conditions that arise as the society goes on with its work. Put theories
+aside, and _do something_, and you will find very little difficulty in
+making your society successful if you can secure a dozen really
+interested persons as members. I would be glad to know that such a
+society existed in every community.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I would advise my readers never to have anything to do with
+plant-peddlers. Of course it is _possible_ for the man who goes about
+the country with plants for sale to be as honest as any other man, but
+we see so few indications of the possession of honest principles by the
+majority of these men that we have come to consider them all
+unreliable, and, as a matter of protection, we have to refuse to
+patronize any of them at the risk of doing injustice to those who may be
+strictly reliable. They will sell you Roses that have a different
+colored flower each month throughout the season, blue Roses,
+Resurrection Plants that come to life at a snap of the finger, and are
+equally valuable for decorative purposes and for keeping moths out of
+clothing, and numerous other things rare, wonderful, and all high
+priced, every one of which can be classed among the humbugs. Patronize
+dealers in whom you are justified in having confidence because of a
+well-established reputation for fair dealing.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The Hollyhock is often attacked by what is called "rust." The leaves
+become brown, and dry at the edges, and the entire plant has a look much
+like that of a nail which has been for some time in water, hence the
+popular name of the disease. This "rust" is really a fungoid trouble,
+and unless it is promptly checked it will soon spread to other plants.
+If it appears on several plants at the same time, I would advise cutting
+them, and burning every branch and stalk. If but one plant is attacked,
+I would spray it with Bordeaux Mixture, which can now be obtained in
+paste form from most florists. This is the only dependable remedy I know
+of for the fungus ills that plants are heir to. Asparagus is often so
+badly affected with it, of late years, that many growers have been
+obliged to mow down their plants and burn their tops in midsummer, in
+their efforts to save their stock. Never leave any of the cut-off
+portions of a plant on the ground, thinking that cutting down is all
+that is necessary. The fungus spores will survive the winter, and be
+ready for work in spring. Burn everything.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A house whose foundation walls are left fully exposed always has an
+unfinished look. But if we hide them by shrubs and flowering plants the
+place takes on a look of completion, and the effect is so pleasing that
+we wonder why any house should be left with bare walls. The plants about
+it seem to unite it with the grounds in such a manner that it becomes a
+part of them. But the house whose walls are without the grace of "green
+things growing," always suggest that verse in the Good Book which tells
+of "being _in_ the world, but not _of_ it."
+
+I would always surround the dwelling with shrubs and perennials, and use
+annuals and bulbs between them and the paths that run around the house.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On the north side of a dwelling large-growing Ferns can be planted with
+fine effect. These should be gathered in spring, and a good deal of
+native soil should be brought with them from the woods. They will not
+amount to much the first year, but they will afford you a great deal of
+pleasure thereafter. Use in front of them such shade-loving plants as
+Lily of the Valley and Myosotis.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Nowadays "tropical effects" are greatly admired. We have but few plants
+that adapt themselves to this phase of gardening. Canna, Caladium,
+Ricinus, Coleus, "Golden Feather" Pyrethrum and the gray Centaurea cover
+pretty nearly the entire list. But by varying the combinations that can
+be made with them the amateur can produce many new and pleasing effects,
+thus avoiding the monotony which results from simply copying the beds
+that we see year after year in the public parks, from whose likeness to
+each other we get the impression that no other combination can be made.
+Study out new arrangements for yourself. Plant them, group them, use
+them as backgrounds for flowering plants, mass them in open spaces in
+the border. Do not get the idea that they must always be used by
+themselves. Cannas, because of the great variety of color in their
+foliage, can be made attractive when used alone, but the others depend
+upon combination with other plants for the contrast which brings out and
+emphasizes their attractive features.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Speaking of new arrangements reminds me to say that the amateur gardener
+ought always to plan for original effects if he or she would get out of
+gardening all the pleasure there is in it. It may seem almost necessary
+for the _beginner_ to copy the ideas of others in the arrangement of the
+garden, to a considerable extent, but he should not get into the slavish
+habit of doing so. Hazlitt says: "Originality implies independence of
+opinion. It consists in seeing for one's self." That's it, exactly.
+Study your plants. Find out their possibilities. And then plan
+arrangements of your own for next season. Have an opinion of your own,
+and be independent enough to attempt its carrying out. Don't be afraid
+of yourself. Originate! Originate! Originate!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+When you invest your money in a fine plant you do it for the pleasure of
+yourself and family. When a neighbor comes along and admires it, and
+asks you to divide it with her, don't let yourself be frightened into
+doing so from regard of what she may say or think if you refuse. Tell
+her where she can get a plant like it, but don't spoil your own plant
+for anybody.
+
+I am well aware that advice of this kind may seem selfish, but it is
+not. There's no good reason why my neighbor should not get his plants in
+the same way I got mine. I buy with the idea of beautifying my home with
+them, and this I cannot do so long as I yield to everybody's request for
+a slip or a root.
+
+I have in mind a woman who, some years ago, invested in a rare variety
+of Peony. When her plant came into bloom her friends admired it so much
+that they all declared they must have a "toe" of it. The poor woman
+hated terribly to disturb her plant, for she was quite sure what the
+result would be, having had considerable experience with Peonies, but
+she lacked the courage to say no, and the consequence was that she gave
+a root to the first applicant, and that made it impossible for her to
+refuse the second one and those who came after, and from that time to
+this she has kept giving away "toes," and her plant is a poor little
+thing to-day, not much larger than when it was first planted, while
+plants grown from it are large and fine. She wouldn't mind it so much if
+her friends were willing to divide _their_ plants with _their_ friends,
+but they will not do this "for fear of spoiling them." Instead, they
+send their friends to her. This is a fact, and I presume it can be
+duplicated in almost every neighborhood.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The flower-loving person is, as a general thing, a very generous person,
+and he takes delight in dividing his plants with others when he can do
+so without injuring them. He is glad to do this because of his love for
+flowers, and the pleasure it affords him to get others interested in
+them and their culture. But there is such a thing as being overgenerous.
+Our motto should be, "Home's garden first, my neighbor's garden
+afterward."
+
+It is generally thoughtlessness which prompts people to ask us to divide
+our choice plants with them. If we were to be frank with them, and tell
+them why we do not care to do this, they would readily understand the
+situation, and, instead of blaming us for our refusal, they would blame
+themselves for having been so thoughtlessly selfish as to have made the
+request.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The question is often asked:
+
+"Why can't we save our own flower-seeds? Aren't the plants we grow just
+as healthy as those of the seedsmen we patronize year after year? Ought
+not the seed from them to be just as good as that we buy?"
+
+Just as good, no doubt, in one sense, and _not_ as good, in another. We
+grow our plants for their flowers. The seedsmen grow theirs for their
+seed, and in order to secure the very best article they give their
+plants care and culture that ours are not likely to get. Their methods
+are calculated to result in constant improvement. Ours tend in the other
+direction. The person who grows plants year after year from home-grown
+seed will almost invariably tell you that her plants "seem to be running
+out."
+
+The remedy for this state of things is to get fresh seed, each year,
+from the men who understand how to grow it to perfection.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+One ought always to keep his shrubs and choice plants labelled so that
+no mistake can be made as to variety. We may be on speaking terms with
+the whole Smith family, but we never feel really acquainted with them
+until we know which is John, or Susan, or William. It ought to be so in
+our friendship with our plants. Who that loves Roses would be content to
+speak of La France, and Madame Plantier, and Captain Christy simply as
+Roses? We must be on such intimate terms with them that each one has a
+personality of its own for us. _Then_ we know them, and not _till_ then.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The best label to make use of is a zinc one, because it is almost
+everlasting, while a wooden one is short lived, and whatever is written
+on it soon becomes indistinct.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In attaching any label to a plant, be careful not to twist the wire with
+which you attach it so tightly that it will cut into the branch. As the
+branch grows the wire will shut off the circulation of the plant's
+life-blood through that branch, and the result will be disastrous to
+that portion of the plant.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Different varieties of perennials ought to be kept track of quite as
+much as in the case of shrubs. As the old stalks die away and are cut
+off each season, there is no part of the plant to which a label can be
+attached with any permanence. There are iron sockets on the market into
+which the piece of wood bearing the name of the variety can be inserted.
+An all-wool label would speedily decay in contact with the soil.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Sometimes we get very amusing letters from parties "in search of
+information." Not long ago a woman sent me a leaf from her Boston Fern,
+calling my attention to the "bugs" on the lower side of it, and asking
+how she could get rid of them. How did I suppose they contrived to
+arrange themselves with such regularity? A little careful investigation
+would have shown her that the rows of "bugs" were seed-spores. If
+anything about your plants puzzles you, use your eyes and your
+intelligence, and endeavor to find out the "whys and wherefores" for
+yourself. You will enjoy doing this when you once get into the habit of
+it. Information that comes to us through our own efforts is always
+appreciated much more than that which comes to us second-hand. Make a
+practice of personal investigation in order to get at a solution of the
+problems that will constantly confront you in gardening operations.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In answer to another correspondent who asked me to recommend some
+thoroughly reliable fertilizer, I advised "old cow-manure." Back came a
+letter, saying I had neglected to state _how old_ the cow ought to be!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+But the funny things are not all said by our correspondents. I lately
+came across an article credited to a leading English gardening magazine
+in which the statement was made that a certain kind of weed closely
+resembling the Onion often located itself in the Onion-bed in order to
+escape the vigilance of the weed-puller, its instinct telling it that
+its resemblance to the Onion would deceive the gardener! Is anyone
+foolish enough to believe that the weed knew just where to locate
+itself, and had the ability to put itself there? One can but laugh at
+such "scientific statements," and yet it seems too bad to have people
+humbugged so.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A woman writes: "I don't care very much about plants. I never did. But
+almost everybody grows them, nowadays, and I'd like to have a few for my
+parlor, so as to be in style. You know the old saying that 'one might as
+well be out of the world as out of fashion.' I wish you'd tell me what
+to get, and how to take care of it. I want something that will just
+about take care of itself. I don't want anything I'll have to bother
+with."
+
+My advice to this correspondent was, "Don't try to grow plants."
+
+The fact is, the person who doesn't grow them _out of love for them_
+will never succeed with them, therefore it would be well for such
+persons not to attempt their culture. This for the plant's sake, as well
+as their own. Plants call for something. Plants ask for something more
+than a regular supply of food and water. They must have that
+sympathy,--that friendship--which enables one to understand them and
+their needs, and treat them accordingly. This knowledge will come
+through intuition and from keen, intelligent observation, such as only a
+real plant-lover will be likely to give. Those who grow plants--or
+_attempt_ to grow them--simply because their neighbors do so will never
+bring to their cultivation that careful, conscientious attention which
+alone can result in success. The idea of growing a flower because "it is
+the fashion to do so!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It may seem to some who read what I have said above that I do not
+encourage the cultivation of flowers by the masses. That's a wrong
+conclusion to jump at. I would like to have everybody the owner of a
+flower-garden. Those who have never attempted the culture of flowers are
+very likely to develop a love for them of whose existence, of the
+possibility of which, they had never dreamed. A dormant feeling is
+kindled into activity by our contact with them. But these persons must
+begin from a better motive than a desire to have them simply because it
+is "the style." The desire to succeed with them _because you like them_
+will insure success. Those who would have flowers because _it is the
+fashion_ to have them may experience a sort of _satisfaction_ in the
+possession of them, but this is a feeling utterly unlike the pleasure
+known to those who grow flowers _because they love them_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I am not a believer in the "knack" of flower-growing in the sense that
+some are born with a special ability in that line, or, as some would
+say, with a "_gift_" that way. We often hear it said, "Flowers will grow
+for her if she just _looks_ at them." This is a wrong conclusion to
+arrive at in the cases of those who are successful with them. They do
+something more than simply "look" at their plants. They take intelligent
+care of them. Some may acquire this ability easier and sooner than
+others, but it is a "knack" that anyone may attain to who is willing to
+keep his eyes open, and reason from cause to effect. Don't get the idea
+that success at plant-growing comes without observation, thought, and
+work. All the "knack" you need to have is a liking for flowers, and a
+desire to understand how you can best meet their special requirements.
+
+In other words, the _will_ to succeed will find out the _way_ to that
+result.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Just now, while I am at work on the last pages of this book, comes an
+inquiry, which I answer here because the subject of it is one of general
+interest: "Every spring our Crimson Rambler Roses are infested with
+thousands of green plant-lice. The new shoots will be literally covered
+with them. And in fall the stalks of our Rudbeckia are as thickly
+covered with a _red_ aphis, which makes it impossible for us to use it
+for cut-flower work. Is there a remedy for these troubles?"
+
+Yes. Nicoticide will rid the plants of their enemies if applied
+thoroughly, and persistently. One application may not accomplish the
+desired result, because of failure to reach all portions of the plant
+with it, but a second or a third application will do the work.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+By way of conclusion I want to urge women with "nerves" to take the
+gardening treatment. Many housewives are martyrs to a prison-life. They
+are shut up in the house from year's end to year's end, away from
+pleasant sights, sounds, fresh air, and sunshine. If we can get such a
+woman into the garden for a half-hour each day, throughout the summer,
+we can make a new woman of her. Work among flowers, where the air is
+pure and sweet, and sunshine is a tonic, and companionship is cheerful,
+will lift her out of her work and worry, and body and mind will grow
+stronger, and new life, new health, new energy will come to her, and the
+cares and vexations that made life a burden, because of the nervous
+strain resulting from them, will "take wings and fly away." Garden-work
+is the best possible kind of medicine for overtaxed nerves. It makes
+worn-out women over into healthy, happy women. "I thank God, every day,
+for my garden," one of these women wrote me, not long ago. "It has given
+me back my health. It has made me feel that life _is_ worth living,
+after all. I believe that I shall get so that I live in my garden most
+of the time. By that I mean that I shall be thinking about it and
+enjoying it, either in recollection or anticipation, when it is
+impossible for me to be actually in it. My mind will be there in winter,
+and I will be there in summer. Why--do you know, I did a good deal more
+housework last year than ever before, and I did it in order to find time
+to work among my flowers. Work in the garden made housework easier.
+Thank God for flowers, I say!"
+
+Yes--God be thanked for flowers!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+  +-------------------------------------------------------------+
+  |   _Gardening Books                                          |
+  |   By Eben E. Rexford_                                       |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   The Home Garden                                           |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   A practical book for the use of those who own             |
+  |   a small garden in which they would like to grow           |
+  |   vegetables and small fruits.                              |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _Eight full-page illustrations. 12mo. 198 pages,          |
+  |   cloth, ornamental, $1.25 net._                            |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   Four Seasons in the Garden                                |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   This book treats of all phases of the subject,            |
+  |   from the simple bed or two along the fence in a           |
+  |   city back yard, to the most pretentious garden of         |
+  |   the suburban or country dweller.                          |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _Twenty-six illustrations in tint, colored frontispiece,  |
+  |   decorated title page and lining papers.                   |
+  |   Crown 8vo. Cloth, $1.50 net._                             |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   Indoor Gardening                                          |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   The information that is given in this book                |
+  |   was gained by the writer through personal work            |
+  |   among flowers, and the methods described have             |
+  |   all been successfully tried by him.                       |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _Colored frontispiece and 32 illustrations. Decorated     |
+  |   title page and lining papers. Crown 8vo.                  |
+  |   Ornamental cloth, $1.50 net._                             |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   Amateur Gardencraft                                       |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   A book for the home-maker and garden lover.               |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _Colored frontispiece, 33 illustrations in tint, decorated|
+  |   title page and lining papers. Crown                       |
+  |   8vo. Ornamental cloth, $1.50 net._                        |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _J. B. Lippincott Company_                                |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _Publishers_ _Philadelphia_                               |
+  |                                                             |
+  +-------------------------------------------------------------+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Amateur Gardencraft, by Eben E. Rexford
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+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Amateur Gardencraft, by Eben E. Rexford.
+    </title>
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+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Amateur Gardencraft, by Eben E. Rexford
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Amateur Gardencraft
+       A Book for the Home-Maker and Garden Lover
+
+Author: Eben E. Rexford
+
+Release Date: May 1, 2008 [EBook #25278]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMATEUR GARDENCRAFT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Audrey Longhurst and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from scanned images of public domain material
+from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 374px;"><a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a>
+<img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" width="374" height="488" alt="Not wholly in the busy world, nor quite
+Beyond it, blooms the garden that I love
+
+
+Tennyson" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Not wholly in the busy world, nor quite</span><br />
+Beyond it, blooms the garden that I love<br />
+
+
+<span style="margin-left: 11em;"><i>Tennyson</i></span></span>
+</div>
+
+
+   <h1>AMATEUR<br />
+   GARDENCRAFT</h1>
+
+   <h3>A BOOK FOR THE HOME-MAKER<br />
+   AND GARDEN LOVER</h3>
+
+   <h4>BY</h4>
+   <h2>EBEN E. REXFORD</h2>
+
+   <h4><i>WITH 34 ILLUSTRATIONS</i></h4>
+
+
+   <p class="center">PHILADELPHIA &amp; LONDON<br />
+   J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY<br />
+   1912<br /><br />
+
+   COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY<br /><br />
+
+   PUBLISHED FEBRUARY, 1912<br /><br />
+
+   PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY<br />
+   AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS<br />
+   PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="FOREWORD" id="FOREWORD"></a>FOREWORD</h2>
+
+
+<p>The home that affords the most pleasure to its owner is the one which is
+largely the result of personal effort in the development of its
+possibilities. The "ready-made home," if I may be allowed the
+expression, may be equally as comfortable, from the standpoint of
+convenience,&mdash;and possibly a great deal more so,&mdash;but it invariably
+lacks the charm which invests the place that has developed under our own
+management, by slow and easy stages, until it seems to have become part
+of ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>Home-making is a process of evolution. We take up the work when
+everything connected with it is in a more or less chaotic condition,
+probably without any definite plan in mind. The initial act in the
+direction of development, whatever it may be, suggests almost
+immediately something else that can be done to advantage, and in this
+way we go on doing little things from day to day, until the time comes
+when we sud<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>denly discover what wonderful things have been accomplished
+by our patient and persistent efforts, and we are surprised and
+delighted at the result. Were we to plan it all out before beginning it,
+very likely the undertaking would seem so formidable that it would
+discourage us. But the evolutionary process takes place so gradually, as
+we work hand in hand with that most delightful of all companions,
+Nature, that work becomes play, and we get more enjoyment out of it, as
+it goes along, than it is possible to secure in any other way if we are
+lovers of the beauty that belongs about the ideal home. The man or woman
+who sees little or nothing to admire in tree, or shrub, or flower, can
+have no conception of the pleasure that grows out of planting these
+about the home&mdash;<i>our</i> home&mdash;and watching them develop from tiny plant,
+or seed to the fruition of full maturity. The place casts off the
+bareness which characterizes the beginning of most homes, by almost
+imperceptible degrees, until it becomes a thing of beauty that seems to
+have been almost a creation of our own, because every nook and corner of
+it is vital with the essence of ourselves. Whatever of labor is
+connected with the undertaking is that of love which carries with it a
+most delightful gratifi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span>cation as it progresses. In proportion as we
+infuse into it a desire to make the most of any and everything that will
+attract, and please, and beautify, we reap the reward of our efforts.
+Happy is the man who can point his friends to a lovely home and say&mdash;"I
+have done what I could to make it what it is. <i>I</i> have done it&mdash;not the
+professional who goes about the country making what he <i>calls</i> homes at
+so much a day, or by the job." The home that somebody has made for us
+never appeals to us as does the one into which we <i>have put ourselves</i>.
+Bear that in mind, and be wise, O friend of mine, and be your own
+home-maker.</p>
+
+<p>Few of us could plan out the Home Beautiful, at the beginning, if we
+were to undertake to do so. There may be a mind-picture of it as we
+think we would like it to be, but we lack the knowledge by which such
+results as we have in mind are to be secured. Therefore we must be
+content to begin in a humble way, and let the work we undertake show us
+what to do next, as it progresses. We may never attain to the degree of
+knowledge that would make us successful if we were to set ourselves up
+as professional gardeners, but it doesn't matter much about that, since
+that is not what we have in mind when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> we begin the work of home-making.
+We are simply working by slow and easy steps toward an ideal which we
+may never realize, but the ideal is constantly before us to urge us on,
+and the home-instinct actuates us in all our efforts to make the place
+in which we live so beautiful that it will have for those we love, and
+those who may come after us, a charm that no other place on earth will
+ever have until the time comes when <i>they</i> take up the work of
+home-making <i>for themselves</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img008" id="img008"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p008.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="PILLAR-TRAINED VINES" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PILLAR-TRAINED VINES</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The man or woman who begins the improvement and the beautifying of the
+home as a sort of recreation, as so many do, will soon feel the thrill
+of the delightful occupation, and be inspired to greater undertakings
+than he dreamed of at the beginning. One of the charms of home-making is
+that it grows upon you, and before you are aware of it that which was
+begun without a definite purpose in view becomes so delightfully
+absorbing that you find yourself thinking about it in the intervals of
+other work, and are impatient to get out among "the green things
+growing," and dig, and plant, and prune, and train. You feel, I fancy,
+something of the enthusiasm that Adam must have felt when he looked over
+Eden, and saw what great things were wait<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>ing to be done in it. I am
+quite satisfied he saw chances for improvement on every hand. God had
+placed there the material for the first gardener to work with, but He
+had wisely left it for the other to do with it what he thought best,
+when actuated by the primal instinct which makes gardeners of so many,
+if not the most, of us when the opportunity to do so comes our way.</p>
+
+<p>I do not advocate the development of the &aelig;sthetic features of the home
+from the standpoint of dollars and cents. I urge it because I believe it
+is the <i>duty</i> of the home-owner to make it as pleasant as it can well be
+made, and because I believe in the gospel of beauty as much as I believe
+in the gospel of the Bible. It is the religion that appeals to the finer
+instincts, and calls out and develops the better impulses of our nature.
+It is the religion that sees back of every tree, and shrub, and flower,
+the God that makes all things&mdash;the God that plans&mdash;the God that expects
+us to make the most and the best of all the elements of the good and the
+beautiful which He has given into our care.</p>
+
+<p>In the preparation of this book I have had in mind the fact that
+comparatively few home-owners who set about the improvement of the
+home-grounds know what to do, and what to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> make use of. For the benefit
+of such persons I have tried to give clear and definite instructions
+that will enable them to work intelligently. I have written from
+personal experience in the various phases of gardening upon which I have
+touched in this book. I am quite confident that the information given
+will stand the test of most thorough trial. What I have done with the
+various plants I speak of, others can do if they set about it in the
+right way, and with the determination of succeeding. The will will find
+the way to success. I would not be understood as intending to convey the
+impression that I consider my way as <i>the</i> way. By no means. Others have
+accomplished the same results by different methods. I simply tell what I
+have done, and how I have done it, and leave it to the home-maker to be
+governed by the results of my experience or that of others who have
+worked toward the same end. We may differ in methods, but the outcome
+is, in most instances, the same. I have written from the standpoint of
+the amateur, for other amateurs who would make the improvement of the
+home-grounds a pleasure and a means of relaxation rather than a source
+of profit in a financial sense, believing that what I have to say will
+commend itself to the non-pro<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>fessional gardener as sensible, practical,
+and helpful, and strictly in line with the things he needs to know when
+he gets down to actual work.</p>
+
+<p>I have also tried to make it plain that much of which goes to the making
+of the home is not out of reach of the man of humble means&mdash;that it is
+possible for the laboring man to have a home as truly beautiful in the
+best sense of the term as the man can have who has any amount of money
+to spend&mdash;that it is not the money that we put into it that counts so
+much as <i>the love for it</i> and the desire to take advantage of every
+chance for improvement. Home, for home's sake, is the idea that should
+govern. Money can hire the work done, but it cannot infuse into the
+result the satisfaction that comes to the man who is his own home-maker.</p>
+
+<p>But not every person who reads this book will be a home-maker in the
+sense spoken of above. It will come into the hands of those who have
+homes about which improvements have already been made by themselves or
+others, but who take delight in the cultivation of shrubs and plants
+because of love for them. Many of these persons get a great deal of
+pleasure out of experimenting with them. Others do not care to spend
+time in experiments, but would be glad to find a short<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> cut to success.
+To such this book will make a strong appeal, for I feel confident it
+will help them to achieve success in gardening operations that are new
+to them if they follow the instruction to be found in its pages. I have
+not attempted to tell all about gardening, for there is much about it
+that I have yet to learn. I expect to keep on learning as long as I
+live, for there is always more and more for us to find out about it.
+That's one of its charms. But I have sought to impart the fundamental
+principles of it as I have arrived at a knowledge of them, from many
+years of labor among trees, and shrubs, and flowers&mdash;a labor of
+love&mdash;and it is with a sincere hope that I have not failed in my purpose
+that I give this book to</p>
+
+<h4>
+<span class="smcap">The Home-Maker and the Garden-Lover.</span></h4>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">The Author.</span>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>PAGE</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Lawn: How to Make It and How to Take Care of It</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_17'><b>17</b></a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Planting the Lawn</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_34'><b>34</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Shrubs</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_49'><b>49</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Vines</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_68'><b>68</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Hardy Border</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_81'><b>81</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Garden of Annuals</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_97'><b>97</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Bulb Garden</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_116'><b>116</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Rose: Its General Care and Culture</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_128'><b>128</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Rose as a Summer Bedder</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_149'><b>149</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Dahlia</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_156'><b>156</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Gladiolus</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_166'><b>166</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Lilies</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_172'><b>172</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Plants for Special Purposes</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_176'><b>176</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Arbors, Summer-Houses, Pergolas, and other Garden Features</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_189'><b>189</b></a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Carpet-Bedding</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_205'><b>205</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Flowering and Foliage Plants for Edging Beds and Walks</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_216'><b>216</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Planning the Garden</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_223'><b>223</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Back-Yard Garden</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_220'><b>220</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Wild Garden</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_234'><b>234</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Winter Garden</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_243'><b>243</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Window and Veranda Boxes</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_250'><b>250</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Spring Work in the Garden</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_257'><b>257</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Summer Work in the Garden</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_264'><b>264</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Fall Work in the Garden</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_268'><b>268</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">By Way of Postscript</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_272'><b>272</b></a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="ILLUSTRATIONS">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"<span class="smcap">Not Wholly in the Busy World, nor Quite Beyond it, Blooms the Garden that I Love</span>"</td><td align='right'><a href='#frontis'><b><i>Frontispiece</i></b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Pillar-Trained Vines</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img008'><b>8</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Ivy, Climbing Roses, and Colorado Blue Spruce</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img034'><b>34</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Bit of Informal Border</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img037'><b>37</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Shrubs Along the Driveway</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img044'><b>44</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Snowball</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img057'><b>57</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">American Ivy and Geraniums</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img060'><b>60</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Honeysuckle</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img073'><b>73</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Japan Ivy Growing on Wall</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img076'><b>75</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Shrubs and Perennials Combined in Border</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img083'><b>83</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Old-Fashioned Hollyhocks</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img088'><b>88</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Peony at Its Best</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img090'><b>90</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Bit of the Border of Perennial Plants</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img092'><b>92</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Bed of Asters</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img106'><b>106</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Bed of White Hyacinths Bordered with Pansies</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img125'><b>125</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Hybrid Perpetual Rose</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img130'><b>130</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Rose Trellis</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img136'><b>136</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Rambler Roses</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img142'><b>142</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Dorothy Perkins Rose&mdash;The Best of the Ramblers</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img145'><b>145</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Tea Rose</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img152'><b>152</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span><span class="smcap">Cactus Dahlia</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img160'><b>160</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Garden Glimpse</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img170'><b>170</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Auratum Lily</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img174'><b>174</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Odds and Ends Corner</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img180'><b>180</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Summer House</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img191'><b>191</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Pergola Suggestion</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img195'><b>195</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Simple Pergola Framework</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img198'><b>198</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Gardener's Tool-House</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img200'><b>200</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Border of Creeping Phlox</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img220'><b>220</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">In Summer</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img224'><b>224</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">In Winter</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img224'><b>224</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Porch Box</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img238'><b>238</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Porch Box</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img254'><b>254</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Planting to Hide Foundation Walls</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img272'><b>272</b></a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+<p class="center">The Illustrations are reproduced from photographs by J. F. Murray.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_LAWN_HOW_TO_MAKE_IT_AND_HOW_TO_TAKE_CARE_OF_IT" id="THE_LAWN_HOW_TO_MAKE_IT_AND_HOW_TO_TAKE_CARE_OF_IT"></a>THE LAWN: HOW TO MAKE IT AND HOW TO TAKE CARE OF IT</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_t.jpg" width="160" height="155" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="T" />
+</div>
+<p>HE owner of the average small home seldom goes to the expense of
+employing the professional gardener to do the work of lawn-making.
+Sometimes he cannot afford to do so. Sometimes skilled labor is not
+obtainable. The consequence is, in the majority of cases, the lawn,&mdash;or
+what, by courtesy, is called by that name,&mdash;is a sort of evolution which
+is an improvement on the original conditions surrounding the home, but
+which never reaches a satisfactory stage. We see such lawns
+everywhere&mdash;rough, uneven, bare in spots, anything but attractive in a
+general way, and but little better than the yard which has been given no
+attention, were it not for the shrubs and plants that have been set out
+in them. The probabilities are that if you ask the owner of such a place
+why he has no lawn worth the name, he will give one or the other of the
+reasons I have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> made mention of above as his excuse for the existing
+condition of things about the home. If you ask him why he has not
+undertaken the work himself, he will most likely answer that he lacks
+the knowledge necessary to the making of a fine lawn, and rather than
+experiment with it he has chosen to let it alone.</p>
+
+<p>Now the fact is&mdash;lawn-making has nothing mysterious about it, as so many
+seem to think. It does not call for skilled labor. It need not be an
+expensive undertaking. Any man who owns a home that he desires to make
+the most of can make himself a lawn that will be quite as satisfactory,
+in nearly every instance, as the one made by the professional
+gardener&mdash;more so, in fact, since what we make for ourselves we
+appreciate much more than that which we hire made for us. The object of
+this paper is to assist home-makers in doing just this kind of work. I
+shall endeavor to make it so plain and practical that anyone so inclined
+can do all that needs doing in a satisfactory manner. It may not have
+that nicety of finish, when completed, that characterizes the work of
+the professional, but it will harmonize with its surroundings more
+perfectly, perhaps, and will afford us quite as much pleasure as the
+work of the expert.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If the house has just been built, very likely everything about it is in
+a more or less chaotic condition. Odds and ends of lumber, mortar,
+brick, and all kinds of miscellaneous building material scattered all
+over the place, the ground uneven, treeless, shrubless, and utterly
+lacking in all the elements that go to make a place pleasing and
+attractive. Out of this chaos order must be evolved, and the evolution
+may be satisfactory in every way&mdash;if we only begin right.</p>
+
+<p>The first thing to do is to clear away all the rubbish that clutters up
+the place. Do not make the mistake of dumping bits of wood into hollows
+with the idea that you are making a good foundation for a lawn-surface.
+This wood will decay in a year or two, and there will be a depression
+there. Fill into the low places only such matter as will retain its
+original proportions, like brick and stone. Make kindling-wood of the
+rubbish from lumber, or burn it. Get rid of it in some way before you
+begin operations. What you want, at this stage of the proceedings, is a
+ground entirely free from anything that will interfere with grading the
+surface of it.</p>
+
+<p>If the lot upon which the house stands is a comparatively level one&mdash;or
+rather, was, before the house was built&mdash;it is generally easy to secure<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+a slope from the house on all sides, by filling in about the building
+with the soil thrown up from the cellar or in making excavation for the
+walls. If no excavation of any kind has been made&mdash;and quite often,
+nowadays, foundation walls are built <i>on</i> the ground instead of starting
+a foot or two below the surface,&mdash;a method never to be advised because
+of the risk of injury to the building from the action of frost in the
+soil,&mdash;it may be necessary to make the lot evenly level, unless one goes
+to the expense of filling in. A slight slope away from the house-walls
+is always desirable, as it adds vastly to the general effect. Enough
+soil to secure this slope will not cost a great deal, if it does not
+happen to be at hand, and one will never regret the outlay.</p>
+
+<p>If the ground is very uneven, it is well to have it ploughed, and
+afterward harrowed to pulverize the soil and secure a comparatively
+level surface. Do not be satisfied with one harrowing. Go over it again
+and again until not a lump or clod remains in it. The finer the soil is
+before seed is sown the better will be the sward you grow on it.</p>
+
+<p>If the surface of the yard is <i>not</i> uneven, all the grading necessary
+can be done by spading up the soil to the depth of a foot, and then
+working it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> over thoroughly with, first, a heavy hoe to break apart the
+lumps, and then an iron rake to pulverize it.</p>
+
+<p>I say nothing about drainage because not one lot-owner in a hundred can
+be prevailed on to go to the trouble and expense of arranging for it. If
+I were to devote a dozen pages to this phase of the work, urging that it
+be given careful attention, my advice would be ignored. The matter of
+drainage frightens the home-maker out of undertaking the improvement of
+the yard, nine times out of ten, if you urge its importance upon him. If
+the location is a rather low one, however, it is a matter that ought not
+to be overlooked, but it is not so important if the lot is high enough
+for water to run off speedily after a shower. If any system of drainage
+<i>is</i> arranged for, I would advise turning the work over to the
+professionals, who thoroughly understand what ought to be done and how
+to do it. This is a matter in which the amateur must work to a
+disadvantage when he undertakes to do it for himself.</p>
+
+<p>If there are hollows and depressions, fill them by levelling little
+hummocks which may be found on other parts of the ground, or by having
+soil drawn in from outside. In filling low places, beat the soil down
+solidly as you add it. Unless<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> this is done&mdash;and done well&mdash;the soil you
+add will settle, after a little, and the result will be a
+depression&mdash;not as deep as the original one, of course, but still a
+depression that will make a low place that will be very noticeable. But
+by packing and pounding down the earth as you fill it in, it can be made
+as solid as the soil surrounding it, and in this way all present and
+future unevenness of the soil can be done away with. It is attention to
+such details as these that makes a success of the work, and I would urge
+upon the amateur lawn-maker the absolute necessity of working slowly and
+carefully, and slighting nothing. Undue haste and the lack of
+thoroughness will result in a slovenly job that you will be ashamed of,
+before it is done, and so disgusted with, on completion, that you will
+not feel like doing the work over again for fear another effort may be
+more unsatisfactory than the first one. Therefore do good work in every
+respect as you go along, and the work you do will be its own reward when
+done.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to put too much work on the soil. That is&mdash;you cannot
+make it too fine and mellow. The finer it is the finer the sward will
+be. A coarse, lumpy soil will always make an unsatisfactory
+lawn-surface.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Most soils will need the addition of considerable manure, and poor ones
+will need a good deal. To secure a strong, luxuriant stand of grass it
+is very essential that it should be fed well. While grass will grow
+almost anywhere, it is only on rich soils that you see it in perfection,
+and the ideal lawn demands a sward as nearly perfect as possible.</p>
+
+<p>But I would not advise the use of barnyard manure, for this reason: It
+contains the seeds of the very weeds you must keep out of your lawn if
+you would have it what it ought to be,&mdash;weeds that will eventually ruin
+everything if not got rid of, like Dandelion, Burdock, and Thistle, to
+say nothing of the smaller plants that are harder to fight than those I
+have made mention of. We cannot be too careful in guarding against these
+trespassers which can be <i>kept</i> out much easier than they can be put to
+rout after they have secured a foothold. Therefore I would urge the
+substitution of a commercial fertilizer for barnyard manure in every
+instance. Scatter it liberally over the soil as soon as spaded, or
+ploughed, and work it in with the harrow or the hoe or rake, when you
+are doing the work of pulverization.</p>
+
+<p>If you do not understand just what kind of fertilizer to make use of,
+tell the dealer as nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> as you can the nature of the soil you propose
+to use it on, and he will doubtless be able to supply you with the
+article you require. It is always safe to trust to the judgment of the
+man who knows just what a fertilizer will do, as to the kind and
+quantity to make use of. Soils differ so widely that it is not possible
+to advise a fertilizer that will give satisfaction everywhere. This
+being the case, I advise you to consult local authorities who understand
+the adaptation of fertilizers to soils before making a choice.</p>
+
+<p>April is a good month in which to seed the lawn. So is May, for that
+matter, but the sooner the grass gets a start the better, for early
+starting will put it in better condition to withstand the effects of
+midsummer heat because it will have more and stronger roots than
+later-sown grass can have by the time a demand is made upon its
+vitality.</p>
+
+<p>Sowing lawn-grass seed evenly is an undertaking that most amateurs fail
+in. The seed is light as chaff, and every puff of wind, no matter how
+light, will carry it far and wide. Choose a still day, if possible, for
+sowing, and cross-sow. That is&mdash;sow from north to south, and then from
+east to west. In this way you will probably be able to get the seed
+quite evenly distributed. Hold<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> the hand close to the ground, filled
+with seed, and then, as you make a circular motion from right to left,
+and back again, let the seed slip from between your fingers as evenly as
+possible. A little experimenting along this line will enable you to do
+quite satisfactory work. You may use up a good deal of seed in
+experimenting, but that will not matter. One common mistake in
+lawn-making is to use too little seed. A thinly-seeded lawn will not
+give you a good sward the first season, but a thickly-seeded one will.
+In fact, it will have that velvety look which is one of the chief charms
+of any lawn, after its first mowing. I would advise you to tell the
+dealer of whom you purchase seed the size of your lot, and let him
+decide on the quantity of seed required to make a good job of it.</p>
+
+<p>In buying seed get only the very best on the market. But only of
+reliable dealers. By "reliable dealers" I mean such firms as have
+established a reputation for honesty and fair dealing all along the
+line. Such dealers have to live up to their reputations, and they will
+not work off upon you an inferior article as the dealer who has, as yet,
+no reputation to live up to may, and often does, charging you for it a
+price equal to, or beyond, that which the honest dealer would ask<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> for
+his superior grade of seed. In order to have a fine sward it is
+absolutely necessary that you must have good seed. Cheap seed&mdash;and that
+means <i>poor</i> seed, <i>always</i>&mdash;does not contain the varieties of grasses
+necessary to the making of a rich, deep, velvety sward, and it almost
+always <i>does</i> contain the seeds of noxious weeds which will make your
+lawn a failure. Therefore patronize the dealers in whose honesty you
+have ample reason to have entire confidence, and buy the very best seed
+they have in stock.</p>
+
+<p>After sowing, roll the surface of the lawn to imbed the seed in the
+soil, and make the ground firm enough about it to retain sufficient
+moisture to insure germination. In three or four days the tiny blades
+ought to begin to show. In a week the surface will seem covered with a
+green mist, and in a fortnight's time you will be able to see, with a
+little exercise of the imagination, the kind of lawn you are going to
+have. If the season is a dry one it may be well to sprinkle the soil
+every day, after sundown. Use water liberally, and keep on doing so
+until rain comes or the plants have taken hold of the moister soil below
+with their delicate feeding-roots.</p>
+
+<p>I would not advise mowing until the grass is at least three inches high.
+Then clip lightly with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> a sharp-bladed mower. Just cut away the top of
+the grass. To mow close, while the grass is getting a start, is the
+worst thing you can do. When it begins to thicken up by stooling out,
+then, and not <i>till</i> then, will you be warranted in setting the mower so
+that it will cut closely. But never <i>shear</i> the sward, as some do. You
+will never have a turf like velvet if you do that. Let there be an inch
+and a half or two inches of the grass-blade left.</p>
+
+<p>The importance of having good tools to work with, in taking care of the
+lawn, ought not to be overlooked. A mower whose blades are dull will
+<i>tear</i> the grass off, and make it look ragged, as if gnawed away by
+animals feeding on it, while the mower whose blades are of the proper
+sharpness will cut it as evenly and as neatly as if a razor had been
+applied to it. You cannot appreciate the difference until you have seen
+a specimen of each, and compared them.</p>
+
+<p>Some persons advocate raking the lawn after each mowing. Others advise
+leaving the clippings to act as a sort of mulch. If the clippings are
+allowed to remain, they wilt, and this will detract from the appearance
+of the sward for a short time, but by the next day they will not be
+noticeable. Raking as soon as mowed makes the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> lawn more immediately
+presentable. I have never been able to see any great deal of difference
+in the two methods, except as to appearance, therefore I would advise
+the lawn-owner to try both methods and adopt the one that pleases him
+most. If a rake is used, let it be one with blunt teeth that will not
+tear the sward. There is such a rake on the market, its teeth being made
+of bent wire. On no account use a sharp-toothed iron rake. That is sure
+to injure the sward.</p>
+
+<p>Be regular in your attention to the lawn. Do not let the grass get so
+tall that the mower will not do a good job in cutting it. This
+necessitates mowing at regular intervals. If you mow only once a week, I
+would advise the use of the rake, as long grass-clippings are always
+unsightly because they remain on top of the sward, while short clippings
+from frequent mowing sink into it, and are soon out of sight.</p>
+
+<p>In case the lawn is neglected for a week or more, once going over it
+with the mower will not make it very presentable. Mow, and then rake,
+and then go over it again, cutting <i>across</i> the first swaths. The second
+cutting will result in an even surface, but it will not be as
+satisfactory as that secured by <i>regular</i> mowings, at intervals of two
+or three days.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It is a most excellent plan to scatter bonemeal over the surface of the
+lawn in midsummer, and again in fall. Use the fine meal, as the coarse
+article is not readily assimilated by the soil. There is little danger
+of using enough to injure the sward. Injury generally results from not
+using any.</p>
+
+<p>Many lawn-owners, with a mistaken idea of neatness, rake up the leaves
+that scatter themselves over the sward in fall, thus removing the
+protection that Nature has provided for the grass. Do not do this. Allow
+them to remain all winter. They will be entirely hidden by the snow, if
+any falls, and if there is none they are not unsightly, when you cease
+to think of them as litter. You will appreciate the difference between a
+fall-raked lawn and one on which leaves have been allowed to remain over
+winter, when spring comes. The lawn without protection will have a
+brown, scorched look, while the other will begin to show varying tints
+of green as soon as the snow melts. Grass is hardy, and requires no
+protection to prevent winter-killing, but a covering, though slight,
+saves enough of its vitality to make it well worth while to provide it.</p>
+
+<p>The ideal lawn is one in which no weeds are found. But I have never seen
+such a lawn, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> never expect to. It is possible to keep weeds from
+showing much if one has a thick, fine sward, but keen eyes will discover
+them without much trouble. Regular and careful mowings will keep them
+within bounds, and when the leaves of large-foliaged plants like the
+Burdock and Thistle are not allowed to develop they do not do a great
+deal of harm except in the drain they make upon the soil. Generally,
+after repeated discouragements of their efforts to assert themselves,
+they pine away and finally disappear. But there will be others always
+coming to take their places, especially in the country, and their
+kindred growing in the pastures and by the roadside will ripen seed each
+season to be scattered broadcast by the wind. This being the case, the
+impossibility of entirely freeing a lawn from weeds by uprooting them or
+cutting them off will be readily apparent. One would have to spend all
+his time in warfare against them, on even a small lawn, if he were to
+set out to keep them from growing there. Therefore about all one can do
+to prevent large weeds from becoming unsightly is to constantly curb
+their aspirations by mowing them down as soon as they reach a given
+height.</p>
+
+<p>The Dandelion and the Plantain are probably the worst pests of all,
+because their seeds fill the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> air when they ripen, and settle here,
+there, and everywhere, and wherever they come in contact with the ground
+they germinate, and a colony of young plants establishes itself. Because
+the Burdock and Thistle attempt to develop an up-reaching top it is an
+easy matter to keep them down by mowing, but the Dandelion and Plantain
+hug the soil so closely that the mower slips over them without coming in
+contact with their crowns, and so they live on, and on, and spread by a
+multiplication of their roots until they often gain entire possession of
+the soil, in spots. When this happens, the best thing to do is to spade
+up the patch, and rake every weed-root out of it, and then reseed it. If
+this is done early in spring the newly-seeded place will not be
+noticeable by midsummer.</p>
+
+<p>We frequently see weed-killers advertised in the catalogues of the
+florist. Most, if not all, of them will do all that is claimed for them,
+but&mdash;they will do just as deadly work on the grass, if they get to it,
+as they do on the weed, therefore they are of no practical use, as it is
+impossible to apply them to weeds without their coming in contact with
+the sward.</p>
+
+<p>Ants often do great damage to the lawn by burrowing under the sward and
+throwing up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> great hummocks of loose soil, thus killing out large
+patches of grass where they come to the surface. It is a somewhat
+difficult matter to dislodge them, but it can sometimes be done by
+covering the places where they work with powdered borax to the depth of
+half an inch, and then applying water to carry it down into the soil.
+Repeat the operation if necessary. Florists advertise liquids which are
+claimed to do this work effectively, but I have had no occasion to test
+them, as the borax application has never failed to rout the ant on my
+lawn, and when I find a remedy that does its work well I depend upon it,
+rather than experiment with something of whose merits I know nothing.
+"Prove all things and hold fast to that which is good."</p>
+
+<p>Fighting the ant is an easier matter than exterminating weeds, as
+ant-hills are generally localized, and it is possible to get at them
+without injuring a large amount of sward as one cannot help doing when
+he applies liquids to weeds. The probabilities are, however, that ants
+cannot be entirely driven away from the lawn after they have taken
+possession of it. They will shift their quarters and begin again
+elsewhere. But you can keep them on the run by repeated applications of
+whatever proves obnoxious to them, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> in this way you can prevent
+their doing a great deal of harm. To be successful in this you will have
+to be constantly on the lookout for them, and so prompt in the use of
+the weapons you employ against them that they are prevented from
+becoming thoroughly established in new quarters.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PLANTING_THE_LAWN" id="PLANTING_THE_LAWN"></a>PLANTING THE LAWN</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_w.jpg" width="160" height="134" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="W" />
+</div>
+<p>HEN the lawn is made we begin to puzzle over the planting of trees and
+shrubbery.</p>
+
+<p>What shall we have?</p>
+
+<p>Where shall we have it?</p>
+
+<p>One of the commonest mistakes made by the man who is his own gardener is
+that of over-planting the home-grounds with trees and shrubs. This
+mistake is made because he does not look ahead and see, with the mind's
+eye, what the result will be, a few years from now, of the work he does
+to-day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 454px;"><a name="img034" id="img034"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p034.jpg" width="454" height="600" alt="IVY, CLIMBING ROSES, AND COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE" title="" />
+<span class="caption">IVY, CLIMBING ROSES, AND COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The sapling of to-day will in a short time become a tree of good size,
+and the bush that seems hardly worth considering at present will develop
+into a shrub three, four, perhaps six feet across. If we plant closely,
+as we are all inclined to because of the small size of the material we
+use at planting time, we will soon have a thicket, and it will be
+necessary to sacrifice most of the shrubs in order to give the few we
+leave sufficient room to develop in. Therefore do not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> think, when you
+set out plants, of their <i>present</i> size, but of the size they will have
+attained to five or six years from now. Do not aim at immediate effect,
+as most of us do in our impatience for results. Be content to
+<i>plant</i>&mdash;and <i>wait</i>. I shall give no diagrams for lawn-planting for two
+reasons. The first one is&mdash;no two places are exactly alike, and a
+diagram prepared for one would have to be so modified in order to adapt
+it to the needs of the other that it would be of little value, save in
+the way of suggestion, and I think suggestions of a general character
+<i>without the diagram</i> will be found most satisfactory. The second reason
+is&mdash;few persons would care to duplicate the grounds of his neighbor, and
+this he would be obliged to do if diagrams were depended on. Therefore I
+advise each home-owner to plant his lawn after plans of his own
+preparation, after having given careful consideration to the matter.
+Look about you. Visit the lawns your neighbors have made, and discover
+wherein they have made mistakes. Note wherein they have been successful.
+And then profit by their experience, be it that of success or failure.</p>
+
+<p>Do not make the mistake of planting trees and shrubs in front of the
+house, or between it and the street. Place them somewhere to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> side,
+or the rear, and leave a clear, open sweep of lawn in front of the
+dwelling. Enough unbroken space should be left there to give the sense
+of breadth which will act as a division between the public and the
+private. Scatter shrubs and flower-beds over the lawn and you destroy
+that impression of distance which is given by even a small lawn when
+there is nothing on it to interfere with the vision, as we look across
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Relegate shrubs to the sides of the lot, if you can conveniently do so,
+being careful to give the larger ones locations at the point farthest
+from the street, graduating them toward the front of the lot according
+to their habit of growth. Aim to secure a background by keeping the big
+fellows where they cannot interfere with the outlook of the little ones.</p>
+
+<p>If paths are to be made, think well before deciding where they shall be.
+Some persons prefer a straight path from the street to the house. This
+saves steps, but it gives the place a prim and formal look that is never
+pleasing. It divides the yard into two sections of equal importance,
+where it is advisable to have but one if we would make the most of
+things. In other words, it halves things, thus weakening the general
+effect greatly. A straight path is never a graceful one.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> A curving
+path will make you a few more steps, but so much will be gained by it,
+in beauty, that I feel sure you will congratulate yourself on having
+chosen it, after you have compared it with the straight path of your
+neighbor. It will allow you to leave the greater share of the small lawn
+intact, thus securing the impression of breadth that is so necessary to
+the best effect.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 483px;"><a name="img037" id="img037"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p037.jpg" width="483" height="600" alt="A BIT OF INFORMAL BORDER" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A BIT OF INFORMAL BORDER</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>I have spoken of planting shrubs at the sides of the home-lot. If this
+is done, we secure a sort of frame for the home-picture that will be
+extremely pleasing. If the shrubs near the street are small and low, and
+those beyond them increase in breadth and height as they approach the
+rear of the lot, with evergreens or trees as a background for the
+dwelling, the effect will be delightful. Such a general plan of planting
+the home-grounds is easily carried out. The most important feature of it
+to keep in mind is that of locating your plants in positions that will
+give each one a chance to display its charms to the best effect, and
+this you can easily do if you read the catalogues and familiarize
+yourself with the heights and habits of them.</p>
+
+<p>If your lot adjoins that of a neighbor who has not yet improved his
+home-grounds, I would advise consulting with him, and forming a
+partner<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>ship in improvement-work, if possible. If you proceed after a
+plan of your own on your side of the fence, and he does the same on his
+side, there may be a sad lack of harmony in the result. But <i>if</i> you
+talk the matter over together the chances are that you can formulate a
+plan that will be entirely satisfactory to both parties, and result in
+that harmony which is absolutely necessary to effective work. Because,
+you see, both will be working together toward a definite design, while
+without such a partnership of interests each would be working
+independently, and your ideas of the fitness of things might be sadly at
+variance with those of your neighbor.</p>
+
+<p>Never set your plants in rows. Nature never does that, and she doesn't
+make any mistakes. If you want an object-lesson in arrangement, go into
+the fields and pastures, and along the road, and note how she has
+arranged the shrubs she has planted there. Here a group, there a group,
+in a manner that seems to have had no plan back of it, and yet I feel
+quite sure she planned out very carefully every one of these clumps and
+combinations. The closer you study Nature's methods and pattern after
+them the nearer you will come to success.</p>
+
+<p>Avoid formality as you would the plague if<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> you want your garden to
+afford you all the pleasure you can get out of it. Nature's methods are
+always restful in effect because they are so simple and direct. They
+never seem premeditated. Her plants "just grow," like the Topsy of Mrs.
+Stowe's book, and no one seems to have given any thought to the matter.
+But in order to successfully imitate Nature it is absolutely necessary
+that we familiarize ourselves, as I have said, with her ways of doing
+things, and we can only do this by studying from her books as she opens
+them for us in every field, and by the roadside, and the woodland nook.
+The secret of success, in a word, lies in getting so close to the heart
+of Nature that she will take us into her confidence and tell us some of
+her secrets.</p>
+
+<p>One of the best trees for the small lawn is the Cut-Leaved Birch. It
+grows rapidly, is always attractive, and does not outgrow the limit of
+the ordinary lot. Its habit is grace itself. Its white-barked trunk,
+slender, pendant branches, and finely-cut foliage never fail to
+challenge admiration. In fall it takes on a coloring of pale gold, and
+is more attractive than ever. In winter its delicate branches show
+against a background of blue sky with all the delicacy and distinctness
+of an etching. No tree that I know of is hardier.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Mountain Ash deserves a place on all lawns, large or small. Its
+foliage is very attractive, as are its great clusters of white flowers
+in spring. When its fruit ripens, the tree is as showy as anything can
+well be. And, like the Cut-Leaved Birch, it is ironclad in its
+hardiness. It is an almost ideal tree for small places.</p>
+
+<p>The Japanese Maples are beautiful trees, of medium size, very graceful
+in habit, and rapid growers. While not as desirable for a street tree as
+our native Maple, they will give better satisfaction on the lawn.</p>
+
+<p>The Purple-Leaved Beech is exceedingly showy, and deserves a place on
+every lawn, large or small. In spring its foliage is a deep purple. In
+summer it takes on a crimson tinge, and in fall it colors up like
+bronze. It branches close to the ground, and should never be pruned to
+form a head several feet from the ground, like most other trees. Such
+treatment will mar, if not spoil, the attractiveness of it.</p>
+
+<p>Betchel's Crab, which grows to be of medium size, is one of the
+loveliest things imaginable when in bloom. Its flowers, which are
+double, are of a delicate pink, with a most delicious fragrance.</p>
+
+<p>The White-Flowering Dogwood (<i>Cornus<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> florida</i>) will give excellent
+results wherever planted. Its white blossoms are produced in great
+abundance early in spring&mdash;before its leaves are out, in fact&mdash;and last
+for a long time. Its foliage is a gray-green, glossy and handsome in
+summer, and in fall a deep, rich red, making it a wonderfully attractive
+object at that season.</p>
+
+<p>The Judas Tree (Redbud) never grows to be large. Its lovely pink
+blossoms appear in spring before its heart-shaped leaves are developed.
+Very desirable.</p>
+
+<p>Salisburia (Maiden-Hair). This is an elegant little tree from Japan. Its
+foliage is almost fern-like in its delicacy. It is a free grower, and in
+every respect desirable.</p>
+
+<p>Among our larger trees that are well adapted to use about the house, the
+Elm is the most graceful. It is the poet of the forest, with its
+wide-spreading, drooping branches, its beautiful foliage, and grace in
+every aspect of its stately form.</p>
+
+<p>As a street-tree the Maple is unexcelled. It is of rapid growth,
+entirely hardy anywhere at the north, requires very little attention in
+the way of pruning, is never troubled by insects, and has the merit of
+great cleanliness. It is equally valuable for the lawn. In fall, it
+changes its summer-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>green for purest gold, and is a thing of beauty
+until it loses its last leaf.</p>
+
+<p>The Laurel-Leaved Willow is very desirable where quick results are
+wanted. Its branches frequently make a growth of five and six feet in a
+season. Its leaves are shaped like those of the European Laurel,&mdash;hence
+its specific name,&mdash;with a glossy, dark-green surface. It is probably
+the most rapid grower of all desirable lawn trees. Planted along the
+roadside it will be found far more satisfactory than the Lombardy Poplar
+which is grown so extensively, but which is never pleasing after the
+first few years of its life, because of its habit of dying off at the
+top.</p>
+
+<p>The Box Elder (Ash-Leaved Maple) is another tree of very rapid growth.
+It has handsome light-green foliage, and a head of spreading and
+irregular shape when left to its own devices, but it can be made into
+quite a dignified tree with a little attention in the way of pruning. I
+like it best, however, when allowed to train itself, though this would
+not be satisfactory where the tree is planted along the street. It will
+grow anywhere, is hardy enough to stand the severest climate, and is of
+such rapid development that the first thing you know the little sapling
+you set out is large enough to bear seed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I like the idea of giving each home a background of evergreens. This for
+two reasons&mdash;to bring out the distinctive features of the place more
+effectively than it is possible to without such a background, and to
+serve as a wind-break. If planted at the rear of the house, they answer
+an excellent purpose in shutting away the view of buildings that are
+seldom sightly. The best variety for home-use, all things considered, is
+the Norway Spruce. This grows to be a stately tree of pyramidal habit,
+perfect in form, with heavy, slightly pendulous branches from the ground
+up. Never touch it with the pruning-shears unless you want to spoil it.
+The Colorado Blue Spruce is another excellent variety for general
+planting, with rich, blue-green foliage. It is a free-grower, and
+perfectly hardy. The Douglas Spruce has foliage somewhat resembling that
+of the Hemlock. Its habit of growth is that of a cone, with light and
+graceful spreading branches that give it a much more open and airy
+effect than is found in other Spruces. The Hemlock Spruce is a most
+desirable variety for lawn use where a single specimen is wanted. Give
+it plenty of room in which to stretch out its slender, graceful branches
+and I think it will please you more than any other evergreen you can
+select.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It must not be inferred that the list of trees of which mention has been
+made includes <i>all</i> that are desirable for planting about the home.
+There are others of great merit, and many might prefer them to the kinds
+I have spoken of. I have made special mention of these because I know
+they will prove satisfactory under such conditions as ordinarily prevail
+about the home, therefore they are the kinds I would advise the amateur
+gardener to select in order to attain the highest degree of success.
+Give them good soil to grow in, and they will ask very little from you
+in the way of attention. They are trees that anybody can grow, therefore
+trees for everybody.</p>
+
+<p>In planting a tree care must be taken to get it as deep in the ground as
+it was before it was taken from the nursery. If a little deeper no harm
+will be done.</p>
+
+<p>Make the hole in which it is to be planted so large that all its roots
+can be spread out evenly and naturally.</p>
+
+<p>Before putting it in place, go over its roots and cut off the ends of
+all that were severed in taking it up. Use a sharp knife in doing this,
+and make a clean, smooth cut. A callus will form readily if this is
+done, but not if the ends of the large roots are left in a ragged,
+mutilated condition.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img044" id="img044"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p044.jpg" width="600" height="428" alt="SHRUBS ALONG THE DRIVEWAY" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SHRUBS ALONG THE DRIVEWAY</span>
+</div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When the trees are received from the nursery they will be wrapped in
+moss and straw, with burlap about the roots. Do not unpack them until
+you are ready to plant them. If you cannot do this as soon as they are
+received, put them in the cellar or some other cool, shady place, and
+pour a pailful of water over the wrapping about the roots. Never unpack
+them and leave their roots exposed to the air for any length of time. If
+they must be unpacked before planting, cover their roots with damp moss,
+wet burlap, old carpet, or blankets,&mdash;anything that will protect them
+from the air and from drying out. But&mdash;get them into the ground as soon
+as possible.</p>
+
+<p>When the tree is in the hole made for it, cover the roots with fine
+soil, and then settle this down among the roots by jarring the trunk, or
+by churning the tree up and down carefully. After doing this, and
+securing a covering for all the roots, apply a pailful or two of water
+to firm the soil well. I find this more effective than firming the soil
+with the foot, as it prevents the possibility of loose planting.</p>
+
+<p>Then fill the hole with soil, and apply three or four inches of coarse
+manure from the barnyard to serve as a mulch. This keeps the soil moist,
+which is an important item, especially if the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> season happens to be a
+dry one. If barnyard manure is not obtainable, use leaves, or
+grass-clippings&mdash;anything that will shade the soil and retain moisture
+well.</p>
+
+<p>Where shall we plant our trees?</p>
+
+<p>This question is one that we often find it difficult to answer, because
+we are not familiar enough with them to know much about the effect they
+will give after a few years' development. Before deciding on a location
+for them I would advise the home-maker to look about him until he finds
+places where the kinds he proposes to use are growing. Then study the
+effect that is given by them under conditions similar to those which
+prevail on your own grounds. Make a mental transfer of them to the place
+in which you intend to use them. This you can do with the exercise of a
+little imagination. When you see them growing on your own grounds, as
+you can with the mind's eye, you can tell pretty nearly where they ought
+to be planted. You will get more benefit from object-lessons of this
+kind than from books.</p>
+
+<p>On small grounds I would advise keeping them well to the sides of the
+house. If any are planted in front of the house they will be more
+satisfactory if placed nearer the street than the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> house. They should
+never be near enough to the dwelling to shade it. Sunshine about the
+house is necessary to health as well as cheerfulness.</p>
+
+<p>Trees back of the dwelling are always pleasing. Under no circumstances
+plant them in prim rows, or just so many feet apart. This applies to all
+grounds, large or small, immediately about the house. But if the place
+is large enough to admit of a driveway, a row of evergreens on each side
+of it can be made an attractive feature.</p>
+
+<p>The reader will understand from what I have said that no hard-and-fast
+rules as to where to plant one's trees can be laid down, because of the
+wide difference of conditions under which the planting must be made.
+Each home-owner must decide this matter for himself, but I would urge
+that no decision be made without first familiarizing yourself with the
+effect of whatever trees you select as you can see them growing on the
+grounds of your neighbors.</p>
+
+<p>Do not make the mistake of planting so thickly that a jungle will result
+after a few years. In order to do itself justice, each tree must have
+space enough about it, on all sides, to enable it to display its charms
+fully. This no tree can do when crowded in among others. One or two fine
+large trees with plenty of elbow-room about them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> will afford vastly
+more satisfaction than a dozen trees that dispute the space with each
+other. Here again is proof of what I have said many times in this book,
+that quality is what pleases rather than quantity.</p>
+
+<p>If any trees are planted in front of the house, choose kinds having a
+high head, so that there will be no obstruction of the outlook from the
+dwelling.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="SHRUBS" id="SHRUBS"></a>SHRUBS</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 170px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_e.jpg" width="170" height="160" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="E" />
+</div>
+<p>VERY yard ought to have its quota of shrubs. They give to it a charm
+which nothing else in the plant-line can supply, because they have a
+greater dignity than the perennial and the annual plant, on account of
+size, and the fact that they are good for many years, with very little
+care, recommends them to the home-maker who cannot give a great deal of
+attention to the garden and the home-grounds. It hardly seems necessary
+to say anything about their beauty. That is one of the things that "goes
+without saying," among those who see, each spring, the glory of the
+Lilacs and the Spireas, and other shrubs which find a place in
+"everybody's garden." On very small ground the larger-growing shrubs
+take the place of trees quite satisfactorily. Indeed, they are
+preferable there, because they are not likely to outgrow the limits
+assigned them, as trees will in time, and they do not make shade enough
+to bring about the unsanitary conditions which are almost<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> always found
+to exist in small places where trees, planted too thickly at first, have
+made a strong development. Shade is a pleasing feature of a place in
+summer, but there is such a thing as having too much of it. We
+frequently see places in which the dwelling is almost entirely hidden by
+a thicket of trees, and examination will be pretty sure to show that the
+house is damp, and the occupants of it unhealthy. Look at the roof and
+you will be quite sure to find the shingles covered with green moss. The
+only remedy for such a condition of things is the thinning out or
+removal of some of the trees, and the admission of sunlight. Shrubs can
+never be charged with producing such a state of things, hence my
+preference for them on lots where there is not much room. Vines can be
+used upon the walls of the dwelling and about the verandas and porches
+in such a way as to give all the shade that is needed, and, with a few
+really fine specimens of shrubs scattered about the grounds, trees will
+not be likely to be missed much.</p>
+
+<p>I would not be understood as discouraging the planting of trees on
+grounds where there is ample space for their development. A fine tree is
+one of the most beautiful things in the world, but it must be given a
+good deal of room, and that is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> just what cannot be done on the small
+city or village lot. Another argument in favor of shrubs is&mdash;they will
+be in their prime a few years after planting, while a tree must have
+years to grow in. And a shrub generally affords considerable pleasure
+from the start, as it will bloom when very small. Many of them bloom the
+first season.</p>
+
+<p>In locating shrubs do not make the mistake of putting them between the
+house and the street, unless for the express purpose of shutting out
+something unsightly either of buildings or thoroughfare. A small lawn
+loses its dignity when broken up by trees, shrubs, or flower-beds. Left
+to itself it imparts a sense of breadth and distance which will make it
+seem larger than it really is. Plant things all over it and this effect
+is destroyed. I have said this same thing in other chapters of this
+book, and I repeat it with a desire to so impress the fact upon the mind
+of the home-maker that he cannot forget it, and make the common mistake
+of locating his shrubbery or his flower-gardens in the front yard.</p>
+
+<p>The best location for shrubs on small lots is that which I have advised
+for hardy plants&mdash;along the sides of the lot, or at the rear of it, far
+enough away from the dwelling, if space will permit, to serve as a
+background for it. Of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> course no hard-and-fast rule can be laid down,
+because lots differ so widely in size and shape, and the houses we build
+on them are seldom found twice in the same place. I am simply advising
+in a general way, and the advice will have to be modified to suit the
+conditions which exist about each home.</p>
+
+<p>Do not set your shrubs out after any formal fashion&mdash;just so far apart,
+and in straight rows&mdash;as so many do. Formality should be avoided
+whenever possible.</p>
+
+<p>I think you will find the majority of them most satisfactory when
+grouped. That is, several of a kind&mdash;or at least of kinds that harmonize
+in general effect&mdash;planted so close together that, when well developed,
+they form one large mass of branches and foliage. I do not mean, by
+this, that they should be crowded. Give each one ample space to develop
+in, but let them be near enough to touch, after a little.</p>
+
+<p>If it is proposed to use different kinds in groups, one must make sure
+that he understand the habit of each, or results will be likely to be
+most unsatisfactory. The larger-growing kinds must be given the centre
+or the rear of the group, with smaller kinds at the sides, or in front.
+The season of flowering and the peculiarities of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> branch and foliage
+should also be given due consideration. If we were to plant a Lilac with
+its stiff and rather formal habit among a lot of Spireas, all slender
+grace and delicate foliage, the effect would be far from pleasing. The
+two shrubs have nothing in common, except beauty, and that is so
+dissimilar that it cannot be made to harmonize. There must be a general
+harmony. This does not mean that there may not be plenty of contrast.
+Contrast and harmony are not contradictory terms, as some may think.</p>
+
+<p>Therefore read up in the catalogues about the shrubs you propose to make
+use of before you give them a permanent place in the yard.</p>
+
+<p>Also, take a look ahead.</p>
+
+<p>The plant you procure from the nursery will be small. So small, indeed,
+that if you leave eight or ten feet between it and the next one you set
+out, it will look so lonesome that it excites your pity, and you may be
+induced to plant another in the unfilled space to keep it company. But
+in doing this you will be making a great mistake. Three or four years
+from now the bushes will have run together to such an extent that each
+plant has lost its individuality. There will be a thicket of branches
+which will constantly interfere with each other's well being, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>
+prevent healthy development. If you take the look ahead which I have
+advised, you will anticipate the development of the shrub, and plant for
+the future rather than the immediate present. Be content to let the
+grounds look rather naked for a time. Three or four years will remedy
+that defect. You can plant perennials and annuals between them,
+temporarily, if you want the space filled. It will be understood that
+what has been said in this paragraph applies to <i>different kinds</i> of
+shrubs set as single specimens, and not to those planted on the
+"grouping" system.</p>
+
+<p>In planting shrubs, the rule given for trees applies quite fully. Have
+the hole for them large enough to admit of spreading out their roots
+naturally. You can tell about this by setting the shrub down upon the
+ground after unwrapping it, and watching the way in which it disposes of
+its roots. They will spread out on all sides as they did before the
+plant was taken from the ground. This is what they should be allowed to
+do in their new quarters. Many persons dig what resembles a post-hole
+more than anything else, and crowd the roots of the shrub into it,
+without making any effort to loosen or straighten them out, dump in some
+lumpy soil, trample it down roughly, and call the work done.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> Done it
+is, after a fashion, but those who love the plants they set out&mdash;those
+who want fine shrubs and expect them to grow well from the
+beginning&mdash;never plant in that way. Spread the roots out on all sides,
+cover them with fine, mellow soil, settle this into compactness with a
+liberal application of water, then fill up the hole, and cover the
+surface with a mulch of some kind. Treated in this way not one shrub in
+a hundred will fail to grow, if it has good roots. What was said about
+cutting off the ends on injured roots, in the chapter on planting trees,
+applies with equal pertinence here. Also, about keeping the roots
+covered until you are ready to put the plant into the ground. A shrub is
+a tree on a small scale, and should receive the same kind of treatment
+so far as planting goes. These instructions may seem trifling, but they
+are really matters of great importance, as every amateur will find after
+a little experience. A large measure of one's success depends on how
+closely we follow out the little hints and suggestions along these lines
+in the cultivation of all kinds of plants.</p>
+
+<p>Among our best large shrubs, suitable for planting at the rear of the
+lot, or in the back row of a group, is the Lilac. The leading varieties
+will grow to a height of ten or twelve feet,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> and can be made to take on
+bush form if desired, or can be trained as a small tree. If the bush
+form is preferred, cut off the top of the plant, when small, and allow
+several branches to start from its base. If you prefer a tree, keep the
+plant to one straight stem until it reaches the height where you want
+the head to form. Then cut off its top. Branches will start below. Leave
+only those near the top of the stem. These will develop and form the
+head you want. I consider the Lilac one of our very best shrubs, because
+of its entire hardiness, its rapid development, its early flowering
+habit, its beauty, its fragrance, and the little attention needed by it.
+Keep the soil about it rich, and mow off the suckers that will spring up
+about the parent plant in great numbers each season, and it will ask no
+more of you. The chief objection urged against it is its tendency to
+sucker so freely. If let alone, it will soon become a nuisance, but with
+a little attention this disagreeable habit can be overcome. I keep the
+ground about my plants free from suckers by the use of the lawn-mower.
+They can be cut as easily as grass when young and small.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img057" id="img057"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p057.jpg" width="600" height="450" alt="SNOWBALL" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SNOWBALL</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>If there is a more beautiful shrub than the white Lilac I do not know
+what it is. For cut-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>flower work it is as desirable as the Lily of the
+Valley, which is the only flower I can compare it with in delicate
+beauty, purity, and sweetness.</p>
+
+<p>The Persian is very pleasing for front positions, because of its
+compact, spreading habit, and its slender, graceful manner of branching
+close to the ground. It is a very free bloomer, and a bush five or six
+feet high, and as many feet across, will often have hundreds of
+plume-like tufts of bloom, of a dark purple showing a decided violet
+tint.</p>
+
+<p>The double varieties are lovely beyond description. At a little distance
+the difference between the doubles and singles will not be very
+noticeable, but at close range the beauty of the former will be
+apparent. Their extra petals give them an airy grace, a feathery
+lightness, which the shorter-spiked kinds do not have. By all means have
+a rosy-purple double variety, and a double white. No garden that lives
+up to its privileges will be without them. If I could have but one
+shrub, I think my choice would be a white Lilac.</p>
+
+<p>Another shrub of tall and stately habit is the old Snowball. When well
+grown, few shrubs can surpass it in beauty. Its great balls of bloom are
+composed of scores of individually small flowers, and they are borne in
+such profusion<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> that the branches often bend beneath their weight. Of
+late years there has been widespread complaint of failure with this
+plant, because of the attack of aphides. These little green plant-lice
+locate themselves on the underside of the tender foliage, before it is
+fully developed, and cause it to curl in an unsightly way. The harm is
+done by these pests sucking the juices from the leaf. I have had no
+difficulty in preventing them from injuring my bushes since I began the
+use of the insecticide sold by the florists under the name of
+Nicoticide. If this is applied as directed on the can in which it is put
+up, two or three applications will entirely rid the plant of the
+insects, and they will not return after being driven away by anything as
+disagreeable to them as a nicotine extract. Great care must be taken to
+see that the application gets to the underside of the foliage where the
+pests will establish themselves. This is a matter of the greatest
+importance, for, in order to rout them, it is absolutely necessary that
+you get the nicotine <i>where they are</i>. Simply sprinkling it over the
+bush will do very little good.</p>
+
+<p>The Spirea is one of the loveliest of all shrubs. Its flowers are
+exquisite in their daintiness, and so freely produced that the bush is
+literally cov<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>ered with them. And the habit of the bush is grace itself,
+and this without any attention whatever from you in the way of training.
+In fact, attempt to train a Spirea and the chances are that you will
+spoil it. Let it do its own training, and the result will be all that
+you or any one else could ask for. There are several varieties, as you
+will see when you consult the dealers' catalogues. Some are double, some
+single, some white, some pink. Among the most desirable for general
+culture I would name <i>Van Houteii</i>, a veritable fountain of pure white
+blossoms in May and June, <i>Prunifolia</i>, better known as "Bridal Wreath,"
+with double white flowers, <i>Billardi</i>, pink, and <i>Fortunei</i>, delicate,
+bright rose-color.</p>
+
+<p>The Spireas are excellent shrubs for grouping, especially when the white
+and pink varieties are used together. This shrub is very hardy, and of
+the easiest culture, and I can recommend it to the amateur, feeling
+confident that it will never fail to please.</p>
+
+<p>Quite as popular as the Spirea is the Deutzia, throughout the middle
+section of the northern states. Farther north it is likely to
+winter-kill badly. That is, many of its branches will be injured to such
+an extent that they will have to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> be cut away to within a foot or two of
+the ground, thus interfering with a free production of flowers. The
+blossoms of this shrub are of a tasselly bell-shape, produced thickly
+all along the slender branches, in June. <i>Candidissima</i> is a double
+white, very striking and desirable. <i>Gracilis</i> is the most daintily
+beautiful member of the family, all things considered. <i>Discolor
+grandiflora</i> is a variety with large double blossoms, tinted with pink
+on the reverse of the petals.</p>
+
+<p>The Weigelia is a lovely shrub. There are white, pink, and carmine
+varieties. The flowers, which are trumpet-shaped, are borne in spikes in
+which bloom and foliage are so delightfully mixed that the result is a
+spray of great beauty. A strong plant will be a solid mass of color for
+weeks.</p>
+
+<p>An excellent, low-growing, early flowering shrub is <i>Pyrus Japonica</i>,
+better known as Japan Quince. It is one of our earliest bloomers. Its
+flowers are of the most intense, fiery scarlet. This is one of our best
+plants for front rows in the shrubbery, and is often used as a low
+hedge.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img060" id="img060"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p060.jpg" width="600" height="433" alt="AMERICAN IVY AND GERANIUMS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AMERICAN IVY AND GERANIUMS</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One of our loveliest little shrubs is Daphne <i>Cneorum</i>, oftener known as
+the "Garland Flower." Its blossoms are borne in small clus<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>ters at the
+extremity of the stalks. They are a soft pink, and very sweet. The habit
+of the plant is low and spreading. While this is not as showy as many of
+our shrubs, it is one that will win your friendship, because of its
+modest beauty, and will keep a place in your garden indefinitely after
+it has once been given a place there.</p>
+
+<p>Berberis&mdash;the "Barberry" of "Grandmother's garden"&mdash;is a most
+satisfactory shrub, for several reasons: It is hardy everywhere. The
+white, yellow, and orange flowers of the different varieties are showy
+in spring; in fall the foliage colors finely; and through the greater
+part of winter the scarlet, blue and black berries are extremely
+pleasing. <i>Thunbergii</i> is a dwarf variety, with yellow flowers, followed
+by vivid scarlet fruit. In autumn, the foliage changes to scarlet and
+gold, and makes the bush as attractive as if covered with flowers. This
+is an excellent variety for a low hedge.</p>
+
+<p>Exochorda <i>grandiflora</i>, better known as "Pearl Bush," is one of the
+most distinctively ornamental shrubs in cultivation. It grows to a
+height of seven to ten feet, and can be pruned to almost any desirable
+shape. The buds, which come early in the season, look like pearls
+strung<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> on fine green threads&mdash;hence the popular name of the plant&mdash;and
+these open into flowers of the purest white. A fine shrub for the
+background of a border.</p>
+
+<p>Forsythia is a splendid old shrub growing to a height of eight to ten
+feet. Its flowers appear before its leaves are out, and are of such a
+rich, shining yellow that they light up the garden like a bonfire. The
+flowers are bell-shaped, hence the popular name of the plant, "Golden
+Bell."</p>
+
+<p>Hydrangea <i>paniculata grandiflora</i> is a very general favorite because of
+its great hardiness, profusion of flowers, ease of cultivation, and
+habit of late blooming. It is too well known to need description.</p>
+
+<p>Robinia <i>hispida</i>, sometimes called Rose Acacia, is a native species of
+the Locust. It has long, drooping, very lovely clusters of pea-shaped
+flowers of a soft pink color. It will grow in the poorest soil and stand
+more neglect than any other shrub I have knowledge of. But because it
+<i>can</i> do this is no reason why it should be asked to do it. Give it good
+treatment and it will do so much better for you than it possibly can
+under neglect, that it will seem like a new variety of an old plant.</p>
+
+<p>The Flowering Currant is a delightful shrub,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> and one that anyone can
+grow, and one that will flourish anywhere. It is very pleasing in habit,
+without any attention in the way of training. Its branches spread
+gracefully in all directions from the centre of the bush, and grow to a
+length of six or seven feet. Early in the season they are covered with
+bright yellow flowers of a spicy and delicious fragrance. In fall the
+bush takes on a rich coloring of crimson and gold, and is really much
+showier then than when in bloom, in spring.</p>
+
+<p>Sambucus <i>aurea</i>&mdash;the Golden Elder&mdash;is one of the showiest shrubs in
+cultivation, and its showy feature is its foliage. Let alone, it grows
+to be a very large bush, but judicious pruning keeps it within bounds,
+for small grounds. It makes an excellent background for such brilliantly
+colored flowers as the Dahlia, Salvia <i>splendens</i>, or scarlet Geraniums.
+It deserves a place in all collections. Our native Cut-Leaved Elder is
+one of the most beautiful ornaments any place can have. It bears
+enormous cymes of delicate, lace-like, fragrant flowers in June and
+July. These are followed by purple berries, which make the bush as
+attractive as when in bloom.</p>
+
+<p>The Syringa, or Mock Orange, is one of our favorites. It grows to a
+height of eight and ten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> feet and is therefore well adapted to places in
+the back row, or in the rear of the garden. Its flowers, which are borne
+in great profusion, are a creamy white, and very sweet-scented.</p>
+
+<p>The double-flowered Plum is a most lovely shrub. It blooms early in
+spring, before its leaves are out. Its flowers are very double, and of a
+delicate pink, and are produced in such profusion that the entire plant
+seems under a pink cloud.</p>
+
+<p>Another early bloomer, somewhat similar to the Plum, is the Flowering
+Almond, an old favorite. This, however, is of slender habit, and should
+be given a place in the front row. Its lovely pink-and-white flowers are
+borne all along the gracefully arching stalks, making them look like
+wreaths of bloom that Nature had not finished by fastening them together
+in chaplet form.</p>
+
+<p>It is not to be understood that the list given above includes all the
+desirable varieties of shrubs suited to amateur culture. It does,
+however, include the cream of the list for general-purpose gardening.
+There are many other kinds that are well worth a place in any garden,
+but some of them are inclined to be rather too tender for use at the
+north, without protection, and others require a treatment which they
+will not be likely to get from the amateur gardener, therefore I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> would
+not advise the beginner in shrub-growing to undertake their culture.</p>
+
+<p>Many an amateur gardener labors under the impression that all shrubs
+must be given an annual pruning. He doesn't know just how he got this
+impression, but&mdash;he has it. He looks his shrubs over, and sees no actual
+necessity for the use of the knife, but&mdash;pruning must be done, and he
+cuts here, and there, and everywhere, without any definite aim in view,
+simply because he feels that something of the kind is demanded of him.
+This is where a great mistake is made. So long as a shrub is healthy and
+pleasing in shape let it alone. It is not necessary that it should
+present the same appearance from all points of view. That would be to
+make it formal, prim&mdash;anything but graceful. Go into the fields and
+forests and take lessons from Nature, the one gardener who makes no
+mistakes. Her shrubs are seldom regular in outline, but they are
+beautiful, all the same, and graceful, every one of them, with a grace
+that is the result of informality and naturalness. Therefore never prune
+a shrub unless it really needs it, and let the need be determined by
+something more than mere lack of uniformity in its development. Much of
+the charm of Nature's workmanship is the result of irregularity which
+never does violence to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> laws of symmetry and grace. Study the
+wayside shrub until you discover the secret of it, and apply the
+knowledge thus gained to the management of your home garden.</p>
+
+<p>Shrubs can be set in fall or spring. Some persons will tell you that
+spring planting is preferable, and give you good reasons for their
+preference. Others will advance what seem to be equally good reasons for
+preferring to plant in fall. So far as my experience goes, I see but
+little difference in results.</p>
+
+<p>By planting in spring, you get your shrub into the ground before it
+begins to grow.</p>
+
+<p>By planting in fall, you get it into the ground after it has completed
+its annual growth.</p>
+
+<p>You will have to be governed by circumstances, and do the best you can
+under them, and you will find, I feel quite sure, that good results will
+come from planting at either season.</p>
+
+<p>If you plant in spring, do not defer the work until after your plants
+have begun growing. Do it as soon as the frost is out of the ground.</p>
+
+<p>If in fall, do it as soon as possible after the plant has fully
+completed the growth of the season, and "ripened off," as we say. In
+other words, is in that dormant condition which follows the completion
+of its yearly work. This will be shown by the falling of its leaves.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Never starve a shrub while it is small and young, under the impression
+that, because it is small, it doesn't make much difference how you use
+it. It makes all the difference in the world. Much of its future
+usefulness depends on the treatment it receives at this period. What you
+want to do is to give it a good start. And after it gets well started,
+keep it going steadily ahead. Allow no grass or weeds to grow close to
+it and force it to dispute with them for its share of nutriment in the
+soil about its roots.</p>
+
+<p>It is a good plan to spread a bushel or more of coarse litter about each
+shrub in fall. Not because it needs protection in the sense that a
+tender plant needs it, but because a mulch keeps the frost from working
+harm at its roots, and saves to the plant that amount of vital force
+which it would be obliged to expend upon itself if it were left to take
+care of itself. For it is true that even our hardiest plants suffer a
+good deal in the fight with cold, though they may not seem to be much
+injured by it. Mulch some of them, and leave some of them without a
+mulch, and notice the difference between the two when spring comes. If
+you do this, I feel sure you will give <i>all</i> of them the mulch-treatment
+every season thereafter.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VINES" id="VINES"></a>VINES</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_a.jpg" width="160" height="147" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="A" />
+</div>
+<p> HOME without vines is like a home without children&mdash;it lacks the very
+thing that ought to be there to make it most delightful and home-like.</p>
+
+<p>A good vine&mdash;and we have many such&mdash;soon becomes "like one of the
+family." Year after year it continues to develop, covering unsightly
+places with its beauty of leaf and bloom, and hiding defects that can be
+hidden satisfactorily in no other way. All of us have seen houses that
+were positively ugly in appearance before vines were planted about them,
+that became pleasant and attractive as soon as the vines had a chance to
+show what they could do in the way of covering up ugliness.</p>
+
+<p>There are few among our really good vines that will not continue to give
+satisfaction for an indefinite period if given a small amount of
+attention each season. I can think of none that are not better when ten
+or twelve years old than they are two and three years after
+planting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>&mdash;healthier, stronger, like a person who has "got his growth"
+and arrived at that period when all the elements of manhood are fully
+developed. Young vines may be as pleasing as old ones, as far as they
+go, but&mdash;the objection is that they do not go far enough. The value of a
+vine depends largely on size, and size depends largely on age. During
+the early stage of a vine's existence it is making promise of future
+grace and beauty, and we must give it plenty of time in which to make
+that promise good. We must also give such care as will make it not only
+possible but easy to fulfil this promise to the fullest extent.</p>
+
+<p>While many vines will live on indefinitely under neglect, they cannot do
+themselves justice under such conditions, as any one will find who
+plants one and leaves it to look out for itself. But be kind to it, show
+it that you care for it and have its welfare at heart, and it will
+surprise and delight you with its rapidity of growth, and the beauty it
+is capable of imparting to everything with which it comes in contact.
+For it seems impossible for a vine to grow anywhere without making
+everything it touches beautiful. It is possessor of the magic which
+transforms plain things into loveliness.</p>
+
+<p>If I were obliged to choose between vines and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> shrubs&mdash;and I am very
+glad that I do not have to do so&mdash;I am quite sure I would choose the
+former. I can hardly explain how it is, but we seem to get on more
+intimate terms with a vine than we do with a shrub. Probably it is
+because it grows so close to the dwelling, as a general thing, that we
+come to think of it as a part of the home.</p>
+
+<p>Vines planted close to the house walls often fail to do well, because
+they do not have a good soil to spread their roots in. The soil thrown
+out from the cellar, or in making an excavation for the foundation
+walls, is almost always hard, and deficient in nutriment. In order to
+make it fit for use a liberal amount of sand and loam ought to be added
+to it, and mixed with it so thoroughly that it becomes a practically new
+soil. At the same time manure should be given in generous quantity. If
+this is done, a poor soil can be made over into one that will give most
+excellent results. One application of manure, however, will not be
+sufficient. In one season, a strong, healthy vine will use up all the
+elements of plant-growth, and more should be supplied to meet the
+demands of the following year. In other words, vines should be manured
+each season if they are expected to keep in good health and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> continue to
+develop. If barnyard manure cannot be obtained, use bonemeal of which I
+so often speak in this book. I consider it the best substitute for
+barnyard fertilizer that I have ever used, for all kinds of plants.</p>
+
+<p>The best, all-round vine for general use, allowing me to be judge, is
+Ampelopsis, better known throughout the country as American Ivy, or
+Virginia Creeper. It is of exceedingly rapid growth, often sending out
+branches twenty feet in length in a season, after it has become well
+established. It clings to stone, wood, or brick, with equal facility,
+and does not often require any support except such as it secures for
+itself. There are two varieties. One has flat, sucker-like discs, which
+hold themselves tightly against whatever surface they come in contact
+with, on the principle of suction. The other has tendrils which clasp
+themselves about anything they can grasp, or force themselves into
+cracks and crevices in such a manner as to furnish all the support the
+vine needs. So far as foliage and general habit goes, there is not much
+difference between these two varieties, but the variety with
+disc-supports colors up most beautifully in fall. The foliage of both is
+very luxuriant. When the green of summer gives way to the scarlet and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>
+maroon of autumn, the entire plant seems to have changed its leaves for
+flowers, so brilliant is its coloring. There is but one objection to be
+urged against this plant, and that is&mdash;its tendency to rampant growth.
+Let it have its way and it will cover windows as well as walls, and
+fling its festoons across doorway and porch. This will have to be
+prevented by clipping away all branches that show an inclination to run
+riot, and take possession of places where no vines are needed. When you
+discover a branch starting out in the wrong direction, cut it off at
+once. A little attention of this kind during the growing period will
+save the trouble of a general pruning later on.</p>
+
+<p>Vines, like children, should be trained while growing if you would have
+them afford satisfaction when grown.</p>
+
+<p>The Ampelopsis will climb to the roof of a two-story house in a short
+time, and throw out its branches freely as it makes its upward growth,
+and this without any training or pruning. Because of its ability to take
+care of itself in these respects, as well as because of its great
+beauty, I do not hesitate to call it the best of all vines for general
+use. It will grow in all soils except clear sand, it is as hardy as it
+is possible for a vine to be, and so far as my experience with it
+goes&mdash;and I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> have grown it for the last twenty years&mdash;it has no
+diseases.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 442px;"><a name="img073" id="img073"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p073.jpg" width="442" height="600" alt="HONEYSUCKLE" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HONEYSUCKLE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>For verandas and porches the Honeysuckles will probably afford better
+satisfaction because of their less rampant habit. Also because of the
+beauty and the fragrance of their flowers. Many varieties are all-summer
+bloomers. The best of these are Scarlet Trumpet and <i>Halleana</i>. The
+vines can be trained over trellises, or large-meshed wire netting, or
+tacked to posts, as suits the taste of the owner. In whatever manner you
+train them they lend grace and beauty to a porch without shutting off
+the outlook wholly, as their foliage is less plentiful than that of most
+vines. This vine is of rapid development, and so hardy that it requires
+very little attention in the way of protection in winter. The variety
+called Scarlet Trumpet has scarlet and orange flowers. <i>Halleana</i> has
+almost evergreen foliage and cream-white flowers of most delightful
+fragrance. Both can be trained up together with very pleasing effect.
+There are other good sorts, but I consider that these two combine all
+the best features of the entire list, therefore I would advise the
+amateur gardener to concentrate his attention on them instead of
+spreading it out over inferior kinds.</p>
+
+<p>Every lover of flowers who sees the hybrid<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> varieties of Clematis in
+bloom is sure to want to grow them. They are very beautiful, it is true,
+and few plants are more satisfactory when well grown. But&mdash;there's the
+rub&mdash;to grow them well.</p>
+
+<p>The variety known as <i>Jackmani</i>, with dark purple-blue flowers, is most
+likely to succeed under amateur culture, but of late years it has been
+quite unsatisfactory. Plants of it grow well during the early part of
+the season, but all at once blight strikes them, and they wither in a
+day, as if something had attacked the root, and in a short time they are
+dead. This has discouraged the would-be growers of the large-flowered
+varieties&mdash;for all of them seem to be subject to the same disease. What
+this disease is no one seems able to say, and, so far, no remedy for it
+has been advanced.</p>
+
+<p>But in Clematis <i>paniculata</i>, we have a variety that I consider superior
+in every respect to the large-flowered kinds, and to date no one has
+reported any trouble with it. It is of strong and healthy growth, and
+rampant in its habit, thus making it useful where the large-flowered
+kinds have proved defective, as none of them are of what may be called
+free growth. They grow to a height of seven or eight feet&mdash;sometimes
+ten,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>&mdash;but have few branches, and sparse foliage. <i>Paniculata</i>, on the
+contrary, makes a very vigorous growth&mdash;often twenty feet in a
+season&mdash;and its foliage, unlike that of the other varieties, is
+attractive enough in itself to make the plant well worth growing. It is
+a rich, glossy green, and so freely produced that it furnishes a dense
+shade. Late in the season, after most other plants are in "the sere and
+yellow leaf" it is literally covered with great panicles of starry white
+flowers which have a delightful fragrance. While this variety lacks the
+rich color of such varieties as <i>Jackmani</i> and others of the hybrid
+class, it is really far more beautiful. Indeed, I know of no flowering
+vine that can equal it in this respect. Its late-flowering habit adds
+greatly to its value. It is not only healthy, but hardy&mdash;a quality no
+one can afford to overlook when planting vines about the house. Like
+Clematis <i>flammula</i>, a summer-blooming relative of great value both for
+its beauty and because it is a native, it is likely to die pretty nearly
+to the ground in winter, but, because of rapid growth, this is not much
+of an objection. By the time the flowers of either variety are likely to
+come in for a fair share of appreciation, the vines will have grown to
+good size.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>For the middle and southern sections of the northern states the Wistaria
+is a most desirable vine, but at the north it cannot be depended on to
+survive the winter in a condition that will enable it to give a
+satisfactory crop of flowers. Its roots will live, but most of its
+branches will be killed each season.</p>
+
+<p>Ampelopsis <i>Veitchii</i>, more commonly known as Boston or Japan Ivy, is a
+charming vine to train over brick and stone walls in localities where it
+is hardy, because of its dense habit of growth. Its foliage is smaller
+than that of the native Ampelopsis, and it is far less rampant in
+growth, though a free grower. It will completely cover the walls of a
+building with its dark green foliage, every shoot clinging so closely
+that a person seeing the plant for the first time would get the idea
+that it had been shorn of all its branches except those adhering to the
+wall. All its branches attach themselves to the wall-surface, thus
+giving an even, uniform effect quite unlike that of other vines which
+throw out branches in all directions, regardless of wall or trellis. In
+autumn this variety takes on a rich coloring that must be seen to be
+fully appreciated.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img076" id="img076"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p076.jpg" width="600" height="302" alt="JAPAN IVY GROWING ON WALL" title="" />
+<span class="caption">JAPAN IVY GROWING ON WALL</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our native Celastrus, popularly known as Bittersweet, is a very
+desirable vine if it can be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> given something to twine itself about. It
+has neither tendril nor disc, and supports itself by twisting its new
+growth about trees over which it clambers, branches&mdash;anything that it
+can wind about. If no other support is to be found it will twist about
+itself in such a manner as to form a great rope of branches. It has
+attractive foliage, but the chief beauty of the vine is its clusters of
+pendant fruit, which hang to the plant well into winter. This fruit is a
+berry of bright crimson, enclosed in an orange shell which cracks open,
+in three pieces, and becomes reflexed, thus disclosing the berry within.
+As these berries grow in clusters of good size, and are very freely
+produced, the effect of a large plant can be imagined. In fall the
+foliage turns to a pure gold, and forms a most pleasing background for
+the scarlet and orange clusters to display themselves against. The plant
+is of extremely rapid growth. It has a habit of spreading rapidly, and
+widely, by sending out underground shoots which come to the surface many
+feet away from the parent plant. These must be kept mowed down or they
+will become a nuisance.</p>
+
+<p>Flower-loving people are often impatient of results, and I am often
+asked what annual I would advise one to make use of, for immediate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>
+effect, or while the hardy vines are getting a start. I know of nothing
+better, all things considered, than the Morning Glory, of which mention
+will be found elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>The Flowering Bean is a pretty vine for training up about verandas, but
+does not grow to a sufficient height to make it of much value elsewhere.
+It is fine for covering low trellises or a fence.</p>
+
+<p>The "climbing" Nasturtiums are not really climbers. Rather plants with
+such long and slender branches that they must be given some support to
+keep them from straggling all over the ground. They are very pleasing
+when used to cover fences, low screens, and trellises, or when trained
+along the railing of the veranda.</p>
+
+<p>The Kudzu Vine is of wonderful rapidity of growth, and will be found a
+good substitute for a hardy vine about piazzas and porches.</p>
+
+<p>Aristolochia, or Dutchman's Pipe, is a hardy vine of more than ordinary
+merit. It has large, overlapping leaves that furnish a dense shade, and
+very peculiar flowers&mdash;more peculiar, in fact, than beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>Bignonia will give satisfaction south of Chicago, in most localities.
+Where it stands the winter it is a favorite on account of its great<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>
+profusion of orange-scarlet flowers and its pretty, finely-cut foliage.
+Farther north it will live on indefinitely, like the Wistaria, but its
+branches will nearly always be badly killed in winter.</p>
+
+<p>It is a mistake to make use of strips of cloth in fastening vines to
+walls, as so many are in the habit of doing, because the cloth will soon
+rot, and when a strong wind comes along, or after a heavy rain, the
+vines will be torn from their places, and generally it will be found
+impossible to replace them satisfactorily. Cloth and twine may answer
+well enough for annual vines, with the exception of the Morning Glory,
+but vines of heavy growth should be fastened with strips of leather
+passed about the main stalks and nailed to the wall securely. Do not use
+a small tack, as the weight of the vines will often tear it loose from
+the wood. Do not make the leather so tight that it will interfere with
+the circulation of sap in the plant. Allow space for future growth. Some
+persons use iron staples, but I would not advise them as they are sure
+to chafe the branches they are used to support.</p>
+
+<p>The question is often asked if vines are not harmful to the walls over
+which they are trained. I have never found them so. On the contrary, I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>
+have found walls that had been covered with vines for years in a better
+state of preservation than walls on which no vines had ever been
+trained. The explanation is a simple one: The leaves of the vines act in
+the capacity of shingles, and shed rain, thus keeping it from getting to
+the walls of the building.</p>
+
+<p>But I would not advise training vines over the roof, unless it is
+constructed of slate or some material not injured by dampness, because
+the moisture will get below the foliage, where the sun cannot get at it,
+and long-continued dampness will soon bring on decay.</p>
+
+<p>On account of the difficulty of getting at them, vines are never pruned
+to any great extent, but it would be for the betterment of them if they
+were gone over every year, and all the oldest branches cut away, or
+thinned out enough to admit of a free circulation of air. If this were
+done, the vine would be constantly renewing itself, and most kinds would
+be good for a lifetime. It really is not such a difficult undertaking as
+most people imagine, for by the use of an ordinary ladder one can get at
+most parts of a building, and reach such portions of the vines as need
+attention most.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_HARDY_BORDER" id="THE_HARDY_BORDER"></a>THE HARDY BORDER</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_t.jpg" width="160" height="155" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="T" />
+</div>
+<p>HE most satisfactory garden of flowering plants for small places, all
+things considered, is one composed of hardy herbaceous perennials and
+biennials.</p>
+
+<p>This for several reasons:</p>
+
+<p>1st.&mdash;Once thoroughly established they are good for an indefinite
+period.</p>
+
+<p>2d.&mdash;It is not necessary to "make garden" annually, as is the case where
+annuals are depended on.</p>
+
+<p>3d.&mdash;They require less care than any other class of plants.</p>
+
+<p>4th.&mdash;Requiring less care than other plants, they are admirably adapted
+to the needs of those who can devote only a limited amount of time to
+gardening.</p>
+
+<p>5th.&mdash;They include some of the most beautiful plants we have.</p>
+
+<p>6th.&mdash;By a judicious selection of kinds it is possible to have flowers
+from them from early in spring till late in fall.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I have no disposition to say disparaging things about the garden of
+annuals. Annuals are very desirable. Some of them are absolutely
+indispensable. But they call for a great deal of labor. It is hard work
+to spade the ground, and make the beds, and sow the seed, and keep the
+weeds down. This work must be done year after year. But with hardy
+plants this is not the case. Considerable labor may be called for, the
+first year, in preparing the ground and setting out the plants, but the
+most of the work done among them, after that, can be done with the hoe,
+and it will take so little time to do it that you will wonder how you
+ever came to think annuals the only plants for the flower-garden of busy
+people. That this <i>is</i> what a great many persons think is true, but it
+is because they have not had sufficient experience with hardy plants to
+fully understand their merits, and the small amount of care they
+require. A season's experience will convince them of their mistake.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 468px;"><a name="img083" id="img083"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p083.jpg" width="468" height="600" alt="SHRUBS AND PERENNIALS COMBINED IN BORDER" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SHRUBS AND PERENNIALS COMBINED IN BORDER</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In preparing the ground for the reception of these plants, spade it up
+to the depth of a foot and a half, at least, and work into it a liberal
+amount of good manure, or some commercial fertilizer that will take the
+place of manure from the barnyard or cow-stable. Most perennials<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> and
+herbaceous plants will do fairly well in a soil of only moderate
+richness, but they cannot do themselves justice in it. They ought not to
+be expected to. To secure the best results from them&mdash;and you ought to
+be satisfied with nothing less&mdash;feed them well. Give them a good start,
+at the time of planting, and keep them up to a high standard of vitality
+by liberal feeding, and they will surprise and delight you with the
+profusion and beauty of their bloom.</p>
+
+<p>Perennials will not bloom till the second year from seed. Therefore, if
+you want flowers from them the first season, it will be necessary for
+you to purchase last season's seedlings from the florist.</p>
+
+<p>In most neighborhoods one can secure enough material to stock the border
+from friends who have old plants that need to be divided, or by
+exchanging varieties.</p>
+
+<p>But if you want plants of any particular color, or of a certain variety,
+you will do well to give your order to a dealer. In most gardens five or
+six years old the original varieties will either have died out or so
+deteriorated that the stock you obtain there will be inferior in many
+respects, therefore not at all satisfactory to one who is inclined to be
+satisfied with nothing but the best.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> The "best" is what the dealer will
+send you if you patronize one who has established a reputation for
+honesty.</p>
+
+<p>The impression prevails, to a great extent, that perennials bloom only
+for a very short time in the early part of the season. This is a
+mistake. If you select your plants with a view to the prolongation of
+the flowering period, you can have flowers throughout the season from
+this class of plants. Of course not all of them will bloom at the same
+time. I would not be understood as meaning that. But what I do mean
+is&mdash;that by choosing for a succession of bloom it is possible to secure
+kinds whose flowering periods will meet and overlap each other in such a
+manner that some of them will be in bloom most of the time. Many kinds
+bloom long before the earliest annuals are ready to begin the work of
+the season. Others are in their prime at midsummer, and later ones will
+give flowers until frost comes. If you read up the catalogues and
+familiarize yourself with the habits of the plants which the dealer
+offers for sale, you can make a selection that will keep the garden gay
+from May to November.</p>
+
+<p>On the ordinary home-lot there is not much choice allowed as to the
+location of the border. It must go to the sides of the lot if it starts
+in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> front of the house, or it may be located at the rear of the
+dwelling. On most grounds it will, after a little, occupy both of these
+positions, for it will outgrow its early limitations in a few years. You
+will be constantly adding to it, and thus it comes about that the border
+that <i>begins</i> on each side of the lot will overflow to the rear.</p>
+
+<p>I would never advise locating it in front of the dwelling. Leave the
+lawn unbroken there. While there is not much opportunity for "effect" on
+small grounds, a departure from straight lines can always be made, and
+formality and primness be avoided to a considerable degree. Let the
+inner edge of the border curve, as shown in the illustration
+accompanying this chapter, and the result will be a hundredfold more
+pleasing than it would be if it were a straight line. Curves are always
+graceful, and indentations here and there enable you to secure new
+points of view that add vastly to the general effect. They make the
+border seem larger than it really is because only a portion of it is
+seen at the same time, as would not be the case if it were made up of
+straight rows of plants, with the same width throughout.</p>
+
+<p>By planting low-growing kinds in front, and backing them up with kinds
+of a taller growth,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> with the very tallest growers in the rear, the
+effect of a bank of flowers and foliage can be secured. This the
+illustration clearly shows.</p>
+
+<p>Shrubbery can be used in connection with perennials with most
+satisfactory results. This, as the reader will see, was done on the
+grounds from which the picture was taken. Here we have a combination
+which cannot fail to afford pleasure. I would not advise any home-maker
+to confine his border to plants of one class. Use shrubs and perennials
+together, and scatter annuals here and there, and have bulbs all along
+the border's edge.</p>
+
+<p>I want to call particular attention to one thing which the picture under
+consideration emphasizes very forcibly, and that is&mdash;the unstudied
+informality of it. It seems to have planned itself. It is like one of
+Nature's fence-corner bits of gardening.</p>
+
+<p>For use in the background we have several most excellent plants. The
+Delphinium&mdash;Larkspur&mdash;grows to a height of seven or eight feet, in rich
+soil, sending up a score or more of stout stalks from each strong clump
+of roots. Two or three feet of the upper part of these stalks will be
+solid with a mass of flowers of the richest, most intense blue
+imaginable. I know of no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> other flower of so deep and striking a shade
+of this rather rare color in the garden. In order to guard against
+injury from strong winds, stout stakes should be set about each clump,
+and wound with wire or substantial cord to prevent the flowering stalks
+from being broken down. There is a white variety, <i>Chinensis</i>, that is
+most effective when used in combination with the blue, which you will
+find catalogued as Delphinium <i>formosum</i>. If several strong clumps are
+grouped together, the effect will be magnificent when the plants are in
+full bloom. By cutting away the old stalks as soon as they have
+developed all their flowers, new ones can be coaxed to grow, and under
+this treatment the plants can be kept in bloom for many weeks.</p>
+
+<p>"Golden Glow" Rudbeckia is quite as strong a grower as the Delphinium,
+and a more prolific bloomer does not exist. It will literally cover
+itself with flowers of the richest golden yellow, resembling in shape
+and size those of the "decorative" type of Dahlia. This plant is a very
+strong grower, and so aggressive that it will dispute possession with
+any plant near it, and on this account it should never be given a place
+where it can interfere with choice varieties. Let it have its own way
+and it will crowd out even the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> grass of the lawn. Its proper place is
+in the extreme background, well to the rear, where distance will lend
+enchantment to the view. It must not be inferred from this that it is
+too coarse a flower to give a front place to. It belongs to the rear
+simply because of its aggressive qualities, and the intense effect of
+its strong, all-pervading color. You do not want a flower in the front
+row that, being given an inch, will straightway insist upon taking an
+ell. This the Rudbeckia will do, every time, if not promptly checked. It
+is an exceedingly valuable plant to cut from, as its flowers last for
+days, and light up a room like a great burst of strong sunshine.</p>
+
+<p>Hollyhocks must have a place in every border. Their stately habit,
+profusion of bloom, wonderful range and richness of color, and
+long-continued flowering period make them indispensable and favorites
+everywhere. They are most effective when grown in large masses or
+groups. If they are prevented from ripening seed, they will bloom
+throughout the greater part of the season. The single varieties are of
+the tallest, stateliest growth, therefore admirably adapted to back rows
+in the border. The double kinds work in well in front of them. These are
+the showiest members of the family because their flowers are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> so
+thickly set along the stalk that a stronger color-effect is given, but
+they are really no finer than the single sorts, so far as general effect
+is concerned. Indeed, I think I prefer the single kinds because the rich
+and peculiar markings of the individual flower show to much better
+advantage in them than in the doubles, whose multiplicity of petals
+hides this very pleasing variegation. But I would not care to go without
+either kind.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img088" id="img088"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p088.jpg" width="600" height="428" alt="OLD-FASHIONED HOLLYHOCKS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD-FASHIONED HOLLYHOCKS</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Coreopsis <i>lanceolata</i> is a very charming plant for front rows,
+especially if it can have a place where it is given the benefit of
+contrast with a white flower, like the Daisy. In such a location its
+rich golden yellow comes out brilliantly, and makes a most effective
+point of color in the border.</p>
+
+<p>Perennial Phlox, all things considered, deserves a place very near to
+the head of the list of our very best hardy plants. Perhaps if a vote
+were taken, it would be elected as leader of its class in point of
+merit. It is so entirely hardy, so sturdy and self-reliant, so
+wonderfully floriferous, and so rich and varied in color that it is
+almost an ideal plant for border-use. It varies greatly in habit. Some
+varieties attain a height of five feet or more. Others are low
+growers,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>&mdash;almost dwarfs, in fact,&mdash;therefore well adapted to places
+in the very front row, and close to the path. The majority are of medium
+habit, fitting into the middle rows most effectively. With a little care
+in the selection of varieties&mdash;depending on the florists' catalogues to
+give us the height of each&mdash;it is an easy matter to arrange the various
+sorts in such a way as to form a bank which will be an almost solid mass
+of flowers for weeks. Some varieties have flowers of the purest white,
+and the colors of others range through many shades of pink, carmine,
+scarlet, and crimson, to lilac, mauve, and magenta. The three colors
+last named must never be planted alongside or near to the other colors,
+with the exception of white, as there can be no harmony between them.
+They make a color-discord so intense as to be positively painful to the
+eye that has keen color-sense. But combine them with the white kinds and
+they are among the loveliest of the lot. This Phlox ought always to be
+grouped, to be most effective, and white varieties should be used
+liberally to serve as a foil to the more brilliant colors and bring out
+their beauty most strikingly.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img090" id="img090"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p090.jpg" width="600" height="427" alt="THE PEONY AT ITS BEST" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE PEONY AT ITS BEST</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Peonies are superb flowers, and no border can afford to be without them.
+The varieties are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> almost endless, but you cannot have too many of
+them. Use them everywhere. The chances are that you will wish you had
+room for more. They bloom early, are magnificent in color and form, and
+are so prolific that old plants often bear a hundred or more flowers
+each season, and their profusion of bloom increases with age, as the
+plant gains in size. Many varieties are as fragrant as a Rose, and all
+of them are as hardy as a plant can well be. What more need be said in
+their favor?</p>
+
+<p>In order to attain the highest degree of success with the Peony, it
+should be given a rather heavy soil, and manure should be used with
+great liberality. In fact it is hardly possible to make the soil too
+rich to suit it. Disturb the roots as little as possible. The plant is
+very sensitive to any treatment that affects the root, and taking away a
+"toe" for a neighbor will often result in its failure to bloom next
+season. Keep the grass from crowding it. Year after year it will spread
+its branches farther and wider, and there will be more of them, and its
+flowers will be larger and finer each season, if the soil is kept rich.
+I know of old clumps that have a spread of six feet or more, sending up
+hundreds of stalks from matted roots that have not been disturbed for no
+one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> knows how long, on which blossoms can be counted by the hundreds
+every spring.</p>
+
+<p>Dicentra, better known as "Bleeding Heart," because of its pendulous,
+heart-shaped flowers, is a most lovely early bloomer. It is an excellent
+plant for the front row of the border. It sends up a great number of
+flowering stalks, two and three feet in length, all curving gracefully
+outward from the crown of the plant. These bear beautiful
+foliage&mdash;indeed, the plant would be well worth growing for this
+alone&mdash;and each stalk is terminated with a raceme of pink and white
+blossoms. It is difficult to imagine anything lovelier or more graceful
+than this plant, when in full bloom.</p>
+
+<p>The Aquilegia ought to be given a place in all collections. It comes in
+blue, white, yellow, and red. Some varieties are single, others double,
+and all beautiful. This is one of our early bloomers. It should be grown
+in clumps, near the front row.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img092" id="img092"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p092.jpg" width="600" height="444" alt="A BIT OF THE BORDER OF PERENNIAL PLANTS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A BIT OF THE BORDER OF PERENNIAL PLANTS</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Iris is to the garden what the Orchid is to the greenhouse. Its
+colors are of the richest&mdash;blue, purple, violet, yellow, white, and
+gray. It blooms in great profusion, for weeks during the early part of
+summer. It is a magnificent flower. It will be found most effective when
+grouped,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> but it can be scattered about the border in such a way as to
+produce charming results if one is careful to plant it among plants
+whose flowers harmonize with the different varieties in color.
+Color-harmony is as important in the hardy border as in any other part
+of the garden, and no plant should be put out until you are sure of the
+effect it will produce upon other plants in its immediate neighborhood.
+Find the proper place for it before you give it a permanent location.
+The term, "proper place," has as much reference to color as to size. A
+plant that introduces color-discord is as much out of place as is the
+plant whose size makes it a candidate for a position in the rear when it
+is given a place in the immediate foreground.</p>
+
+<p>Pyrethrum <i>uliginosum</i> is a wonderfully free bloomer, growing to a
+height of three or four feet, therefore well adapted to the middle rows
+of the border. It blooms during the latter part of summer. It is often
+called the "Giant Daisy," and the name is very appropriate, as it is the
+common Daisy, to all intents and purposes, on a large scale.</p>
+
+<p>The small white Daisy, of lower growth, is equally desirable for
+front-row locations. It is a most excellent plant, blooming early in
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> season, and throughout the greater part of summer, and well into
+autumn if the old flower-stalks are cut away in September, to encourage
+new growth. It is a stand-by for cut flowers for bouquet work. Because
+of its compact habit it is a very desirable plant for edging the border.</p>
+
+<p>It is difficult to imagine anything more daintily charming than the
+herbaceous Spireas. <i>Alba</i>, white, and <i>rosea</i>, soft pink, produce
+large, feathery tufts of bloom on stalks six and seven feet tall. The
+flowers of these varieties are exceedingly graceful in an airy,
+cloud-like way, and never fail to attract the attention of those who
+pass ordinary plants by without seeing them.</p>
+
+<p>The florists have taken our native Asters in hand, and we now have
+several varieties that make themselves perfectly at home in the border.
+Some of them grow to a height of eight feet. Others are low growers. The
+rosy-violet kinds and the pale lavender-blues are indescribably lovely.
+Nearly all of them bloom very late in the season. Their long branches
+will be a mass of flowers with fringy petals and a yellow centre. These
+plants have captured the charm of the Indian Summer and brought it into
+the garden, where they keep it prisoner during the last days of the
+season. By all means give them a place in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> your collection. And it will
+add to the effect if you plant alongside them a few clumps of their
+sturdy, faithful old companion of the roadside and pasture, the Golden
+Rod.</p>
+
+<p>It hardly seems necessary for me to give a detailed description of all
+the plants deserving a place in the border. The list would be too long
+if I were to attempt to do so. You will find all the really desirable
+kinds quite fully described in the catalogues of the leading dealers in
+plants. Information as to color, size, and time of flowering is given
+there, and you can select to suit your taste, feeling confident that you
+will be well satisfied with the result.</p>
+
+<p>Just a few words of advice, in conclusion:</p>
+
+<p>Don't crowd your plants.</p>
+
+<p>Allow for development.</p>
+
+<p>Don't try to have a little of everything.</p>
+
+<p>Don't overlook the old-fashioned kinds simply because they happen to be
+old. That proves that they have merit.</p>
+
+<p>Keep the ground between them clean and open.</p>
+
+<p>Manure well each spring.</p>
+
+<p>Stir the soil occasionally during the season.</p>
+
+<p>Prevent the formation of seed.</p>
+
+<p>Once in three or four years divide the old<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> clumps, and discard all but
+the strongest, healthiest portions of the roots. Reset in rich, mellow
+soil. Do this while the plants are at a standstill, early in spring, or
+in fall, after the work of the season is over.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_GARDEN_OF_ANNUALS" id="THE_GARDEN_OF_ANNUALS"></a>THE GARDEN OF ANNUALS</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_i.jpg" width="160" height="149" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="I" />
+</div>
+<p>N preparing the garden for annuals, the first thing to do is to spade
+up the soil. This can be done shortly after the frost is out of the
+ground. This is about all that can be done to advantage, at this time,
+as the ground must be allowed to remain as it comes from the spade until
+the combined effect of sun and air has put it into a condition that will
+make it an easy matter to reduce it to proper mellowness with the hoe or
+iron rake.</p>
+
+<p>Right here let me say: Most of us, in the enthusiasm which takes
+possession of us when spring comes, are inclined to rush matters. We
+spade up the soil, and immediately attempt to pulverize it, and of
+course fail in the attempt, because it is not in a proper condition to
+pulverize. We may succeed in breaking it up into little clods, but that
+is not what needs doing. It must be made fine, and mellow,&mdash;not a lump
+left in it,&mdash;and this can only be done well after the elements have had
+an opportunity to do their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> work on it. When one comes to think about
+it, there is no need of hurry, for it is not safe to sow seed in the
+ground at the north until the weather becomes warm and settled, and that
+will not be before the first of May, in a very favorable season, and
+generally not earlier than the middle of the month. This being the case,
+be content to leave the soil to the mellowing influences of the weather
+until seed-sowing time is at hand. <i>Then</i> go to work and get your garden
+ready.</p>
+
+<p>If the soil is not rich, apply manure from the barnyard or its
+substitute in the shape of some reliable fertilizer.</p>
+
+<p>Do this before you set about the pulverization of the soil. Then go to
+work with hoe and rake, and reduce it to the last possible degree of
+fineness, working the fertilizer you make use of into it in such a
+manner that both are perfectly blended.</p>
+
+<p>There is no danger of overdoing matters in this part of garden-work. The
+finer the soil is the surer you may be of the germination of the seed
+you put into it. Fine seed often fails to grow in a coarse and lumpy
+soil.</p>
+
+<p>In sowing seed, make a distinction between the very fine and that of
+ordinary size. Fine seed should be scattered on the surface, and no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>
+attempt made to cover it. Simply press down the soil upon which you have
+scattered it with a smooth board. This will make it firm enough to
+retain the moisture required to bring about germination.</p>
+
+<p>Larger seed can be sown on the surface, and afterward covered by sifting
+a slight covering of fine soil over it. Then press with the board to
+make it firm.</p>
+
+<p>Large seed, like that of the Sweet Pea, Four-o'-Clock, and Ricinus,
+should be covered to the depth of half an inch.</p>
+
+<p>I always advise sowing seed in the beds where the plants are to grow,
+instead of starting it in pots and boxes, in the house, early in the
+season, under the impression that by so doing you are going to "get the
+start of the season." In ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, plants from
+seed sown in the house will be so weak in vital force that they cannot
+stand the change which comes when they are transplanted to the open
+ground. In the majority of cases, there will be none to transplant, for
+seedlings grown under living-room conditions generally die before the
+time comes when it is safe to put them out of doors. Should there be any
+to put out, they will be so weak that plants from seed sown in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>
+beds, at that time, will invariably get the start of them, and these are
+sure to make the best plants. A person must be an expert in order to
+make a success of plant-growing from seed, in the house, in spring.
+There will be too much heat, too little fresh air, too great a lack of
+moisture in the atmosphere, and often a lack of proper attention in the
+way of watering, and unless these matters can be properly regulated it
+is useless to expect success. Knowing what the result is almost sure to
+be, I discourage the amateur gardener from attempting to grow his own
+seedlings under these conditions. If early plants are desired, buy them
+of the florists whose facilities for growing them are such that they can
+send out strong and healthy stock.</p>
+
+<p>Do not sow the seeds of tender plants until you are quite sure that the
+danger from cold nights is over. It is hardly safe to put any kind of
+seed into the ground before the middle of May, at the north.</p>
+
+<p>If we wait until all conditions are favorable, the young plants will get
+a good start and go steadily ahead, and distance those from seed sown
+before the soil had become warm or the weather settled. Haste often
+makes waste. If the soil is cold and damp seed often fails to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> germinate
+in it, and this obliges you to buy more seed, and all your labor goes
+for naught.</p>
+
+<p>To the method and time of planting advised above, there is one
+exception&mdash;that of the Sweet Pea. This should go into the ground as soon
+as possible in spring. For this reason: This plant likes to get a good
+root-growth before the warm weather of summer comes. With such a growth
+it is ready for flowering early in the season, and no time is wasted.
+Dig a V-shaped trench six inches deep. Sow the seed thickly. It ought
+not to be more than an inch apart, and if closer no harm will be done.
+Cover to the depth of an inch, at time of sowing, tramping the soil down
+firmly. When the young plants have grown to be two or three inches tall,
+draw in more of the soil, and keep on doing this from time to time, as
+the seedlings reach up, until all the soil from the trench has been
+returned to it. This method gives us plants with roots deep enough in
+the soil to make sure of sufficient moisture in a dry season. It also
+insures coolness at the root, a condition quite necessary to the
+successful culture of this favorite flower.</p>
+
+<p>Weeds will generally put in an appearance before the flowering plants
+do. As soon as you can tell "which is which" the work of weeding must<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>
+begin. At this stage, hand-pulling will have to be depended on. But a
+little later, when the flowering plants have made an inch or two of
+growth, weeding by hand should be abandoned. Provide yourself with a
+weeding-hook&mdash;a little tool with claw-shaped teeth&mdash;with which you can
+uproot more weeds in an hour than you can in all day by hand, and the
+work will be done in a superior manner as the teeth of the little tool
+stir the surface of the soil just enough to keep it light and open&mdash;a
+condition that is highly favorable to the healthy development of young
+plants. I have never yet seen a person who liked to pull weeds by hand.
+Gardens are often neglected because of the dislike of their owners for
+this disagreeable task. The use of the weeding-hook does away with the
+drudgery, and makes really pleasant work of the fight with weeds.</p>
+
+<p>If seedlings are to be transplanted, do it after sundown or on a cloudy
+day. Lift the tender plants as carefully as possible, and aim to not
+expose their delicate roots. Get the place in which you propose to plant
+them ready before you lift them, and then set them out immediately. Make
+a hole as deep as their roots are long, drop the plants into it, and
+press the soil firmly about them with thumb and finger. It may be well
+to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> water them if the season is a dry one. Shade them next day, and
+continue to do so until they show that they have made new feeding roots
+by beginning to grow. I make use of a "shader" that I have "evolved from
+my inner consciousness" that gives better satisfaction than anything
+else I have ever tried. I cut thick brown paper into circular shape,
+eight inches across. Then I cut out a quarter of it, and bring the edges
+of this cut together, and run a stick or wire through them to hold them
+together. This stick or wire should be about ten inches long, as the
+lower end of it must go into the soil. When my "shader" is ready for use
+it has some resemblance to a paper umbrella with a handle at one side
+instead of in the middle. This handle is inserted in the soil close to
+the plant, and the "umbrella" shades it most effectively, and does this
+without interfering with a free circulation of air, which is a matter of
+great importance.</p>
+
+<p>If thorough work in the way of weeding is done at the beginning of the
+season, it will be an easy matter to keep the upper hand of the enemy
+later on. But if you allow the weeds to get the start of you, you will
+have to do some hard fighting to gain the supremacy which ought never to
+have been relinquished. After a little, the hoe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> can be used to
+advantage. If the season happens to be a dry one, do not allow the soil
+to become hard, and caked on the surface, under the impression that it
+will not be safe to stir it because of the drouth. A soil that is kept
+light and open will absorb all the moisture there is in the air, while
+one whose surface is crusted over cannot do this, therefore plants
+growing in it suffer far more than those do in the soil that is stirred
+constantly. Aim to get all possible benefit from dews and slight showers
+by keeping the soil in such a sponge-like condition that it can take
+advantage of them.</p>
+
+<p>It is a good plan to use the grass-clippings from the lawn as a mulch
+about your plants in hot, dry weather.</p>
+
+<p>Do not begin to water plants in a dry season unless you can keep up the
+practice. Better let them take the chances of pulling through without
+the application than to give it for a short time and then abandon it
+because of the magnitude of the task.</p>
+
+<p>Furnish racks and trellises for such plants as need them as soon as they
+are needed. Many a good plant is spoiled by neglecting to give attention
+to its requirements at the proper time.</p>
+
+<p>Make it a rule to go over the garden at least twice a week, after the
+flowering season sets in,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> and cut away all faded flowers. If this is
+done, no seed will come to development, and the strength of the plants
+will be expended in the production of other flowers. By keeping up this
+practice through the season, it is possible to keep most of them
+blossoming until late in the summer, as they will endeavor to perpetuate
+themselves by the production of seed, and the first step in this process
+is the production of flowers.</p>
+
+<p>What flowers would you advise us to grow? many readers of this chapter
+will be sure to ask, after having read what I have said above about the
+garden of annuals.</p>
+
+<p>In answering this question here, it will be necessary, in a measure, to
+repeat what has been, or will be, said in other chapters, where various
+phases of gardening are treated. But the question is one that should be
+answered in this connection, at the risk of repetition, in order to
+fully cover the subject now under consideration.</p>
+
+<p>There are so many kinds of flowers offered by the seedsmen that it is a
+difficult matter to decide between them, when all are so good. But no
+one garden is large enough to contain them all. Were one to attempt the
+cultivation of all he would be obliged to put in all his time at the
+work, and the services of an assistant would be needed, besides. Even
+then the chances are that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> the work would be done in a superficial
+fashion. Therefore I shall mention only such kinds as I consider the
+very best of the lot for general use, adding this advice:</p>
+
+<p>Don't attempt too much. A few good kinds, well grown, will afford a
+great deal more pleasure than a great many kinds only half grown.</p>
+
+<p>This list is made up of such kinds as can properly be classed as
+"stand-bys," kinds which any amateur gardener can be reasonably sure of
+success with if the instructions given in this chapter are carefully
+followed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Alyssum.</i>&mdash;Commonly called Sweet Alyssum, because of its pleasing
+fragrance. Of low growth. Very effective as an edging. Most profuse and
+constant bloomer.</p>
+
+<p><i>Aster.</i>&mdash;This annual disputes popularity with the Sweet Pea. Very many
+persons would prefer it to any other because of its sturdy habit, ease
+of culture, profusion of bloom, and great variety of color. It is one of
+the indispensables.</p>
+
+<p><i>Antirrhinum</i> (Snapdragon).&mdash;Plant of profuse flowering habit. Flowers
+of peculiar shape, mostly in rich colors. Very satisfactory for autumn.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img106" id="img106"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p106.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="A BED OF ASTERS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A BED OF ASTERS</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Balsam.</i>&mdash;Splendid plant for summer flowering, coming in many colors,
+some of these ex<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>ceedingly delicate and beautiful. Flowers like small
+Roses, very double, and set so thickly along the stalks that each branch
+seems like a wreath of bloom. It is often necessary to trim off many of
+the leaves in order to give the blossoms a chance to display themselves.
+Some varieties are charmingly variegated. Being quite tender it should
+not be sown until one is sure of warm weather.</p>
+
+<p><i>Calliopsis</i> (Coreopsis).&mdash;A very showy plant, with rich yellow flowers,
+marked with brown, maroon and scarlet at the base of the petal. A most
+excellent plant where great masses of color are desired. Fine for
+combining with scarlet and other strong-toned flowers. An all-the-season
+bloomer.</p>
+
+<p><i>Candytuft.</i>&mdash;A free and constant bloomer, of low habit. Very useful for
+edging beds and borders. Comes in pure white and purplish red.</p>
+
+<p><i>Celosia</i> (Cockscomb).&mdash;A plant with most peculiar flowers. What we
+<i>call</i> the flower is really a collection of hundreds of tiny individual
+blossoms set so close together that they seem to compose one large
+blossom. The prevailing color is a bright scarlet, but we have some
+varieties in pink and pale yellow. Sure to please.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cosmos.</i>&mdash;A plant of wonderfully free flower<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>ing habit. Flowers mostly
+pink, white, and lilac. A tall grower, branching freely, therefore well
+adapted to back rows, or massing. Foliage fine and feathery. Excellent
+for cutting. One of our most desirable fall bloomers. We have an early
+Cosmos of rather dwarf habit, but the large-growing late varieties are
+far more satisfactory. It may be necessary to cover the plants at night
+when the frosts of middle and late September are due, as they will be
+severely injured by even the slightest touch of frost. Well worth all
+the care required.</p>
+
+<p><i>Four-o'-Clock</i> (Marvel of Peru&mdash;Mirabilis).&mdash;A good, old-fashioned
+flower that has the peculiarity of opening its trumpet-shaped blossoms
+late in the afternoon. Bushy, well branched, and adapted to border use
+as a "filler."</p>
+
+<p><i>Escholtzia</i> (California Poppy).&mdash;One of the showiest flowers in the
+entire list. A bed of it will be a sheet of richest golden yellow for
+many weeks.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gaillardia</i> (Blanket-flower).&mdash;A profuse and constant bloomer, of rich
+and striking color-combinations. Yellow, brown, crimson, and maroon.
+Most effective when massed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gypsophila</i> (Baby's Breath).&mdash;A plant of great daintiness, both in
+foliage and flowers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> Always in demand for cut-flower work. White and
+pink.</p>
+
+<p><i>Kochia</i> (Burning Bush&mdash;Mexican Fire-plant).&mdash;A very desirable plant, of
+symmetrical, compact habit. Rich green throughout the summer, but
+turning to dark red in fall. Fine for low hedges and for scattering
+through the border wherever there happens to be a vacancy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Larkspur.</i>&mdash;Another old-fashioned flower of decided merit.</p>
+
+<p><i>Marigold.</i>&mdash;An old favorite that richly deserves a place in all gardens
+because of its rich colors, free blooming qualities and ease of culture.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nasturtium.</i>&mdash;Too well known to need description here. Everybody ought
+to grow it. Unsurpassed in garden decoration and equally as valuable for
+cutting. Blooms throughout the entire season. Does well in a rather poor
+soil. In a very rich soil it makes a great growth of branches at the
+expense of blossoms.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pansy.</i>&mdash;Not an annual, but generally treated as such. A universal
+favorite that almost everybody grows. If flowers of a particular color
+are desired I would advise buying blooming seedlings from the florist,
+as one can never tell what he is going to get if he depends on seed of
+his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> own sowing. The flowers will be as fine as those from selected
+varieties, but there will be such a medley of colors that one sometimes
+tires of the effect. I have always received the most pleasure from
+planting distinct colors, like the yellows, the blues, the whites, and
+the purples, and the only way in which I can make sure of getting just
+the colors I want is to tell the florist about them, and instruct him to
+send me those colors when his seedlings come into bloom.</p>
+
+<p><i>Petunia.</i>&mdash;Another of the "stand-bys." A plant that can always be
+depended on. Very free bloomer, very profuse, and very showy. If the old
+plants that have blossomed through the summer begin to look ragged and
+unsightly, cut away the entire top. In a short time new shoots will be
+sent out from the stump of the old plant, and almost before you know it
+the plant will have renewed itself, and be blooming as freely as when it
+was young. Fine for massing.</p>
+
+<p><i>Phlox Drummondi.</i>&mdash;One of our most satisfactory annuals. Any one can
+grow it. It begins to bloom when small, and improves with age. Comes in
+a wide range of colors, some brilliant, others delicate&mdash;all beautiful.
+Charming effects are easily secured by planting the pale rose, pure
+white, and soft yellow varieties together, either<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> in rows or circles.
+The contrast will be fine, and the harmony perfect. Other colors are
+desirable, but they do not all combine well. It is a good plan to use
+white varieties freely, as these heighten the effect of the strong
+colors. I always buy seed in which each color is by itself, as a mixture
+of red, crimson, lilac, and violet in the same bed is never pleasing to
+me.</p>
+
+<p><i>Poppy.</i>&mdash;Brilliant and beautiful. Unrivalled for midsummer show. As
+this plant is of little value after its early flowering period is over,
+other annuals can be planted in the bed with it, to take its place. Set
+these plants about the middle of July, and when they begin to bloom pull
+up the Poppies. The Shirley strain includes some of the loveliest colors
+imaginable. Its flowers have petals that seem cut from satin. The
+large-flowered varieties are quite as ornamental as Peonies, as long as
+they last.</p>
+
+<p><i>Portulacca.</i>&mdash;Low grower, spreading until the surface of the bed is
+covered with the dark green carpet of its peculiar foliage. Flowers both
+single and double, of a great variety of colors. Does well in hot
+locations, and in poor soil. Of the easiest culture.</p>
+
+<p><i>Scabiosa.</i>&mdash;Very fine. Especially for cutting. Colors dark purple,
+maroon, and white.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Salpiglossis.</i>&mdash;A free-blooming plant, of very brilliant coloring and
+striking variegation. Really freakish in its peculiar markings.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stock</i> (Gillyflower).&mdash;A plant of great merit. Flowers of the double
+varieties are like miniature Roses, in spikes. Very fragrant. Fine for
+cutting. Blooms until frost comes. Red, pink, purple, white, and pale
+yellow. The single varieties are not desirable, and as soon as a
+seedling plant shows single flowers, pull it up.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sweet Pea.</i>&mdash;This grand flower needs no description. It is one of the
+plants we <i>must</i> have.</p>
+
+<p><i>Verbena.</i>&mdash;Old, but none the worse for that. A free and constant
+bloomer, of rich and varied coloring. Habit low and spreading. One of
+the best plants we have for low beds, under the sitting-room windows.
+Keep the faded flowers cut off, and at midsummer cut away most of the
+old branches, and allow the plant to renew itself, as advised in the
+case of the Petunia.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wallflower.</i>&mdash;Not as much grown as it ought to be. Delightfully
+fragrant. Color rich brown and tawny yellow. General habit similar to
+that of Stock, of which it is a near relative. Late bloomer. Give it one
+season's trial and you will be delighted with it. Not as showy as most
+flowers, but quite as beautiful, and the peer of any of them in
+sweetness.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Zinnia.</i>&mdash;A robust plant of the easiest possible culture. Any one can
+grow it, and it will do well anywhere. Grows to a height of three feet
+or more, branches freely, and close to the ground, and forms a dense,
+compact bush. On this account very useful for hedge purposes.
+Exceedingly profuse in its production of flowers. Blooms till frost
+comes. Comes in almost all the colors of the rainbow.</p>
+
+<p>Because I have advised the amateur gardener to make his selection from
+the above list, it must not be understood that those of which I have not
+made mention, but which will be found described in the catalogues of the
+florist, are not desirable. Many of them might please the reader quite
+as well, and possibly more, than any of the kinds I have spoken of. But
+most of them will require a treatment which the beginner in gardening
+will not be able to give them, and, on that account, I do not include
+them in my list. After a year or two's experience in gardening, the
+amateur will be justified in attempting their culture&mdash;which, after all,
+is not difficult if one has time to give them special attention and a
+sufficient amount of care. The kinds I have advised are such as
+virtually take care of themselves, after they get well under way, if
+weeds are kept away<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> from them. They are the kinds for "everybody's
+garden."</p>
+
+<p>Let me add, in concluding this chapter, that it is wisdom on the part of
+the amateur to select not more than a dozen of the kinds that appeal
+most forcibly to him, and concentrate his attention on them. Aim to grow
+them to perfection by giving them the best of care. A garden of
+well-grown plants, though limited in variety, will afford a hundredfold
+more pleasure to the owner of it than a garden containing a little of
+everything, and nothing well grown.</p>
+
+<p>In purchasing seed, patronize a dealer whose reputation for honesty and
+reliability is such that he would not dare to send out anything inferior
+if he were inclined to do so. There are many firms that advertise the
+best of seed at very low prices. Look out for them. I happen to know
+that our old and most reputable seedsmen make only a reasonable profit
+on the seed they sell. Other dealers who cut under in price can only
+afford to do so because they do not exercise the care and attention
+which the reliable seedsman does in growing his stock, hence their
+expenses are less. Cheap seed will be found cheap in all senses of the
+term.</p>
+
+<p>I want to lay special emphasis on the advisa<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>bility of purchasing seed
+in which each color is by itself. The objection is often urged that one
+person seldom cares to use as many plants of one color as can be grown
+from a package of seed. This difficulty is easily disposed of. Club with
+your neighbors, and divide the seed between you when it comes. In this
+way you will secure the most satisfactory results and pay no more for
+your seed than you would if you were to buy "mixed" packages. Grow
+colors separately for a season and I am quite sure you will never go
+back to mixed seed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_BULB_GARDEN" id="THE_BULB_GARDEN"></a>THE BULB GARDEN</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 170px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_e.jpg" width="170" height="160" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="E" />
+</div>
+<p>VERY lover of flowers should have a garden of bulbs, for three reasons:
+First, they bloom so early in the season that one can have flowers at
+least six weeks longer than it is possible to have them if only
+perennial and annual plants are depended on. Some bulbs come into bloom
+as soon as the snow is gone, at the north, to be followed by those of
+later habit, and a constant succession of bloom can be secured by a
+judicious selection of varieties, thus completely tiding over the
+usually flowerless period between the going of winter and the coming of
+the earlier spring flowers. Second, they require but little care, much
+less than the ordinary plant. Give them a good soil to grow in, and keep
+weeds and grass from encroaching on them, and they will ask no other
+attention from you, except when, because of a multiplication of bulbs,
+they need to be separated and reset, which will be about every third
+year. The work required in doing this is no more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> than that involved in
+spading up a bed for annual flowers. Third, they are so hardy, even at
+the extreme north, that one can be sure of bloom from them if they are
+given a good covering in fall, which is a very easy matter to do.</p>
+
+<p>For richness and variety of color this class of plants stands
+unrivalled. The bulb garden is more brilliant than the garden of annuals
+which succeeds it.</p>
+
+<p>September is the proper month in which to make the bulb garden.</p>
+
+<p>As a general thing, persons fail to plant their bulbs until October and
+often November, thinking the time of planting makes very little
+difference so long as they are put into the ground before winter sets
+in. Here is where a serious mistake is made. Early planting should
+always be the rule,&mdash;for this reason: Bulbs make their annual growth
+immediately after flowering, and ripen off by midsummer. After this,
+they remain dormant until fall, when new root-growth takes place, and
+the plant gets ready for the work that will be demanded of it as soon as
+spring opens. It is made during the months of October and November, if
+cold weather does not set in earlier, and should be fully completed
+before the ground freezes. If incomplete&mdash;as is always<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> the case when
+late planting is done&mdash;the plants are obliged to do&mdash;or attempt to
+do&mdash;double duty in spring. That is, the completion of the work left
+undone in fall and the production of flowers must go on at the same
+time, and this is asking too much of the plant. It cannot produce fine,
+perfect flowers with a poorly-developed root-system to supply the
+strength and nutriment needed for such a task, therefore the plants are
+not in a condition to do themselves justice. Often late-planted bulbs
+fail to produce any flowers, and, in most instances, the few flowers
+they do give are small and inferior in all respects.</p>
+
+<p>With early-planted bulbs it is quite different, because they had all the
+late fall-season to complete root-growth in, and when winter closed in
+it found them ready for the work of spring.</p>
+
+<p>Therefore, do not neglect the making of your bulb garden until winter is
+at hand under the impression that if the bulbs are planted any time
+before snow comes, all is well. This is the worst mistake you could
+possibly make.</p>
+
+<p>The catalogues of the bulb-dealers will be sent out about the first of
+September. Send in your order for the kinds you decide on planting at
+once, and as soon as your order has gone, set about preparing the place
+in which you propose to plant them. Have everything in readiness for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>
+them when they arrive, and put them into the ground as soon after they
+are received as possible.</p>
+
+<p>The soil in which bulbs should be planted cannot be too carefully
+prepared, as much of one's success with these plants depends upon this
+most important item. It must be rich, and it must be fine and mellow.</p>
+
+<p>The best soil in which to set bulbs is a sandy loam.</p>
+
+<p>The best fertilizer is old, thoroughly rotted cow-manure. On no account
+should fresh manure be used. Make use, if possible, of that which is
+black from decomposition, and will crumble readily under the application
+of the hoe, or iron rake. One-third in bulk of this material is not too
+much. Bulbs are great eaters, and unless they are well fed you cannot
+expect large crops of fine flowers from them. And they must be well
+supplied with nutritious food each year, because the crop of next season
+depends largely upon the nutriment stored up this season.</p>
+
+<p>If barnyard manure is not obtainable, substitute bonemeal. Use the fine
+meal, in the proportion of a pound to each yard square of surface. More,
+if the soil happens to be a poor one. If the soil is heavy with clay,
+add sand enough to lighten it, if possible.</p>
+
+<p>The ideal location for bulbs is one that is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> naturally well drained, and
+has a slope to the south.</p>
+
+<p>Unless drainage is good success cannot be expected, as nothing injures a
+bulb more than water about its roots. Therefore, if you do not have a
+place suitable for them so far as natural drainage is concerned, see to
+it that artificial drainage supplies what is lacking. Spade up the bed
+to the depth of a foot and a half. That is&mdash;throw the soil out of it to
+that depth,&mdash;and put into the bottom of the excavation at least four
+inches of material that will not decay readily, like broken brick,
+pottery, clinkers from the coal-stove, coarse gravel&mdash;anything that will
+be permanent and allow water to run off through the cracks and crevices
+in it, thus securing a system of drainage that will answer all purposes
+perfectly. It is of the utmost importance that this should be done on
+all heavy soils. Unless the water from melting snows and early spring
+rains drains away from the bulbs readily you need not expect flowers
+from them.</p>
+
+<p>After having arranged for drainage, work over the soil thrown out of the
+bed until it is as fine and mellow as it can possibly be made. Mix
+whatever fertilizer you make use of with it, when you do this, that the
+two may be thoroughly in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>corporated. Then return it to the bed. There
+will be more than enough to fill the bed, because some space is given up
+to drainage material, but this will be an advantage because it will
+enable you to so round up the surface that water will run off before it
+has time to soak into the soil to much depth.</p>
+
+<p>I do not think it advisable to say much about plans for bulb-beds,
+because comparatively few persons seem inclined to follow instructions
+along this line. The less formal a bed of this kind is the better
+satisfaction it will give, as a general thing. It is the flower that is
+in the bed that should be depended on to give pleasure rather than the
+shape of the bed containing it.</p>
+
+<p>I would advise locating bulb-beds near the house where they can be
+easily seen from the living-room windows. These beds can be utilized
+later on for annuals, which can be sown or planted above the bulbs
+without interfering with them in any respect.</p>
+
+<p>I would never advise mixing bulbs. By that, I mean, planting Tulips,
+Hyacinths, Daffodils, and other kinds in the same bed. They will not
+harmonize in color or habit. Each kind will be found vastly more
+pleasing when kept by itself.</p>
+
+<p>I would also advise keeping each color by it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>self, unless you are sure
+that harmony will result from a mixture or combination of colors. Pink
+and white, blue and white, and red and white Hyacinths look well when
+planted together, but a jumble of pinks, blues, and reds is never as
+pleasing as the same colors would be separately, or where each color is
+relieved by white.</p>
+
+<p>The same rule applies to Tulips, with equal force.</p>
+
+<p>We often see pleasing effects that have been secured by planting reds
+and blues in rows, alternating with rows of white. This method keeps the
+quarrelsome colors apart, and affords sufficient contrast to heighten
+the general effect. Still, there is a formality about it which is not
+entirely satisfactory to the person who believes that the flower is of
+first importance, and the shape of the bed, or the arrangement of the
+flowers in the bed, is a matter of secondary consideration.</p>
+
+<p>Bulbs should be put into the ground as soon as possible after being
+taken from the package in which they are sent out by the florist. If
+exposed to the light and air for any length of time they part rapidly
+with the moisture contained in their scales, and that means a loss of
+vitality. If it is not convenient to plant them at once, leave<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> them in
+the package, or put them in some cool, dark place until you are ready to
+use them.</p>
+
+<p>As a rule Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissus should be planted about five
+inches deep, and about six inches apart.</p>
+
+<p>The smaller bulbs should be put from three to four inches below the
+surface and about the same distance apart.</p>
+
+<p>In planting, make a hole with a blunt stick of the depth desired, and
+drop the bulb into it. Then cover, and press the soil down firmly.</p>
+
+<p>Just before the ground is likely to freeze, cover the bed with a coarse
+litter from the barnyard, if obtainable, to a depth of eight or ten
+inches. If this litter is not to be had, hay or straw will answer very
+well, if packed down somewhat. Leaves make an excellent covering if one
+can get enough of them. If they are used, four inches in depth of them
+will be sufficient. Put evergreen boughs or wire netting over them to
+prevent their being blown away.</p>
+
+<p>I frequently receive letters from inexperienced bulb-growers, in which
+the writers express considerable scepticism about the value of such a
+covering as I have advised above, because, they say, it is not deep
+enough to keep out the frost, therefore it might as well be dispensed
+with.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> Keeping out the frost is not what is aimed at. We expect the soil
+about the bulbs to freeze. But such a covering as has been advised will
+prevent the sun from thawing out the frost after it gets into the soil,
+and this is exactly what we desire. For if the frost can be kept in,
+after it has taken possession, there will not be that frequent
+alternation between freezing and thawing which does the harm to the
+plant. For it is not freezing, understand, that is responsible for the
+mischief, but the <i>alternation of conditions</i>. These cause a rupture of
+plant-cells, and that is what does the harm. Keep a comparatively tender
+plant frozen all winter and allow the frost to be drawn out of it
+gradually in spring, and it will survive a season of unusual cold. The
+same plant will be sure to die in a mild season if left exposed to the
+action of the elements, because of frequent and rapid changes between
+heat and cold.</p>
+
+<p>Whatever covering is given should be left on the beds as long as
+possible in spring, because of the severely cold weather we frequently
+have at the north after we think all danger is over. However, as soon as
+the plants begin to make much growth, this covering will have to be
+removed. If a cold night comes along after this has been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> done spread
+blankets or carpeting over the beds. Keep them from resting on the
+tender growth of the plants by driving pegs into the soil a short
+distance apart, all over the bed. The young plants may not be killed by
+quite a severe freeze, but they will be injured by it, and injury of any
+kind should be guarded against at this season, if you want fine flowers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img125" id="img125"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p125.jpg" width="600" height="451" alt="BED OF WHITE HYACINTHS BORDERED WITH PANSIES" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BED OF WHITE HYACINTHS BORDERED WITH PANSIES</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Holland Hyacinths should receive first consideration, because they are
+less likely to disappoint than any other hardy bulb. There are single
+and double kinds, both desirable. Personally I prefer the single sorts,
+as they are less prim and formal than the double varieties, whose
+flowers are so thickly set along the stalk that individuality of bloom
+is almost wholly lost sight of. They are, in this respect, like the
+double Geraniums we use in summer bedding, whose trusses of bloom
+resemble a ball of color more than anything else, at a little distance,
+the suggestion of individual bloom being so slight that it seldom
+receives consideration. However, they do good service where
+color-effects are considered of more importance than anything else.
+Single Hyacinths have their flowers more loosely arranged along the
+stalk, and are therefore more graceful than the double varieties, and
+their colors are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> quite as fine. These range from pure white through
+pale pink and rose, red, scarlet, crimson, blue and charming yellows to
+dark purple.</p>
+
+<p>Roman Hyacinths are too tender for outdoor culture at the north.</p>
+
+<p>There are several quite distinct varieties of the Tulip. There is an
+early sort, a medium one, a late one, and the Parrot, which is prized
+more for its striking combinations of brilliant colors than for its
+beauty of form or habit. We have single and double varieties in all the
+classes, all coming in a wide range of both rich and delicate colors.
+Scarlets, crimsons, and yellows predominate, but the pure whites, the
+pale rose-colors, and the rich purples are general favorites. Some of
+the variegated varieties are exceedingly brilliant in their striking
+color-combinations.</p>
+
+<p>The Narcissus is one of the loveliest flowers we have. It deserves a
+place very near, if not quite at, the head of the list of our best
+spring-blooming plants. Nothing can be richer in color than the large
+double sorts, like <i>Horsfieldii</i>, and <i>Empress</i>, with their petals of
+burnished gold. There are many other varieties equally as fine, but with
+a little difference in the way of color&mdash;just enough to make one want to
+have all of them. The good old-fashioned Daffodil is an honored member
+of the family that should be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> found in every garden. When you see the
+Dandelion's gleam of gold in the grass by the wayside you get a good
+idea of the brilliant display a fine collection of Narcissus is capable
+of making, for in richness of color these two flowers are almost
+identical.</p>
+
+<p>Among the smaller bulbs that deserve special mention are the Crocus, the
+Snow Drop, the Scilla, and the Musk or Grape Hyacinth. These should be
+planted in groups, to be most effective, and set close together. They
+must be used in large quantities to produce much of a show. They are
+very cheap, and a good-sized collection can be had for a small amount of
+money.</p>
+
+<p>Those who have a liking for special colors will do well to make their
+selections from the named varieties listed in the catalogues. You can
+depend on getting just the color you want, if you order in this way. But
+in no other way. Mixed collection will give you some of all colors, but
+there is no way of telling "which is which" until they come into bloom.</p>
+
+<p>But in mixed collections you will get just as fine bulbs and just as
+fine colors as you will if you select from the list of named varieties.
+Only&mdash;you won't know what you are getting. Named sorts will cost
+considerable more than the mixtures.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_ROSE_ITS_GENERAL_CARE_AND_CULTURE" id="THE_ROSE_ITS_GENERAL_CARE_AND_CULTURE"></a>THE ROSE: ITS GENERAL CARE AND CULTURE</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_t.jpg" width="160" height="155" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="T" />
+</div>
+<p>HE owner of every garden tries to grow roses in it, but where one
+succeeds, ten fail. Perhaps I would be safe in saying that ninety-nine
+out of every hundred fail, for a few inferior blossoms from a plant,
+each season, do not constitute success, but that is what the majority of
+amateur Rose-growers have to be satisfied with, the country over, and so
+great is their admiration for this most beautiful of all flowers that
+these few blossoms encourage them to keep on, season after season,
+hoping for better things, and consoling themselves with the thought
+that, though results fall short of expectation, they are doing about as
+well as their neighbors in this particular phase of gardening.</p>
+
+<p>One does not have to seek far for the causes of failure. The Rose, while
+it is common everywhere, and has been in cultivation for centuries, is
+not understood by the rank and file of those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> who attempt to grow it,
+therefore it is not given the treatment it deserves, <i>and which it must
+have,</i> in order to achieve success in its culture. When we come to know
+its requirements, and give it proper care, we can grow fine Roses, but
+not till then. Those who form an opinion of the possibilities of the
+plant from the specimens which they see growing in the average garden
+have yet to find out what a really fine Rose is.</p>
+
+<p>The Rose is the flower of romance and sentiment throughout the lands in
+which it grows, but, for all that, it is not a sentimental flower in
+many respects. It is a vegetable epicure. It likes rich food, and great
+quantities of it. Unless it can be gratified in this respect it will
+refuse to give you the large, fine flowers which every Rose-grower,
+professional or amateur, is constantly striving after. But feed it
+according to its liking and it will give you perfect flowers in great
+quantities, season after season, and <i>then</i> you will understand what
+this plant can do when given an opportunity to do itself justice.</p>
+
+<p>The Rose will live on indefinitely in almost any soil, and under almost
+any conditions. I have frequently found it growing in old, deserted
+gardens, almost choked out of existence by weeds and other aggressive
+plants, but still holding to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> life with a persistency that seemed
+wonderful in a plant of its kind. I have removed some of these plants to
+my own garden, and given them good care, and time after time I have been
+as surprised as delighted at the result. The poor little bushes, that
+had held so tenaciously to life against great odds, seemed to have
+stored up more vitality in their starved roots than any others in the
+garden were possessors of, and as soon as they were given good soil and
+proper care they sent up strong, rank shoots, and thanked me for my
+kindness to them in wonderful crops of flowers, and really put the old
+residents of the place to shame. All through the years of neglect they
+had no doubt been yearning to bud and bloom, but were unable to do so
+because of unfavorable conditions, but when the opportunity to assert
+themselves came they made haste to take advantage of it in a way that
+proves how responsive flowers are to the right kind of treatment.</p>
+
+<p>The Rose will only do its best in a soil that is rather heavy with clay,
+or a tenacious loam. It likes to feel the earth firm about its roots. In
+light, loose soils it never does well, though it frequently makes a
+vigorous growth of branches in them, but it is from a more compact soil
+that we get the most and finest flowers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 396px;"><a name="img130" id="img130"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p130.jpg" width="396" height="550" alt="HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Some varieties do well in a soil of clay containing considerable gravel.
+Such a soil provides for the roots the firmness of which I have spoken,
+while the gravel insures perfect drainage,&mdash;a matter of great importance
+in Rose-culture. Success cannot be expected in a soil unduly retentive
+of moisture. Very heavy soils can be lightened by the addition of
+coarse, sharp sand, old mortar, and cinders. If the location chosen does
+not furnish perfect drainage, naturally, artificial drainage must be
+resorted to. Make an excavation at least a foot and a half in depth, and
+fill in, at the bottom, with bits of broken brick, crockery, coarse
+gravel, fine stone&mdash;anything that will not readily decay&mdash;and thus
+secure a stratum of porous material through which the superfluous
+moisture in the soil will readily drain away. This is an item in
+Rose-culture that one cannot afford to ignore, if he desires fine Roses.</p>
+
+<p>A rich soil must be provided for the plants in order to secure good
+results. This, also, is a matter of the greatest importance. The ideal
+fertilizer is old, well-rotted cow-manure&mdash;so old that it is black, and
+so rotten that it will crumble at the touch of the hoe. On no account
+should fresh manure be used. If old manure cannot be obtained,
+substitute finely-ground bonemeal, in the proportion of a pound to as
+much soil as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> you think would fill a bushel-basket, on a rough estimate.
+But by all means use the cow-manure if it can possibly be procured, as
+nothing else suits the Rose so well. It will be safe to use it in the
+proportion of a third to the bulk of earth in which you plant your
+Roses. Whatever fertilizer is used should be thoroughly worked into the
+soil before the plants are set out. See that all lumps are pulverized.
+If this is not done, there is danger of looseness about some of the
+roots at planting-time, and this is a thing to guard against, especially
+with young plants.</p>
+
+<p>Location should be taken into consideration, always. Choose, if
+possible, one that has an exposure to the sunshine of the morning and
+the middle of the day. A western exposure is a great deal better than
+none, but the heat of it is generally so intense that few Roses can long
+retain their freshness in it. Something can be done, however, to temper
+the extreme heat of it by planting shrubs where they will shade the
+plants from noon till three o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>Care must be taken, in the choice of a location, to guard against
+drafts. If Roses are planted where a cold wind from the east or north
+can blow over the bed, look out for trouble. Plan for a screen of
+evergreens, if the bed is to be a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> permanent one. If temporary only, set
+up some boards to protect the plants from getting chilled until
+quick-growing annuals can be made to take their place. I have found that
+mildew on Rose-bushes is traceable, nine times out of ten, to exposure
+to cold drafts, and that few varieties are strong enough to withstand
+the effects of repeated attacks of it. The harm done by it can be
+mitigated, to some extent, by applications of flowers of sulphur, dusted
+over the entire plant while moist with dew, but it will not do to depend
+on this remedy. Remove the cause of trouble and there will be no need of
+any application.</p>
+
+<p>Because the Rose is so beautiful, when in full bloom, quite naturally we
+like to plant it where its beauty can be seen to the best advantage. But
+I would not advise giving it a place on the lawn, or in the front yard.
+When plants are in bloom, people will look only at their flowers, and
+whatever drawbacks there are about the bush will not be noticed. But
+after the flowering period is over, the bushes will come in for
+inspection, and then it will be discovered that a Rose-bush without
+blossoms is not half as attractive as most other shrubs are. We prune it
+back sharply in our efforts to get the finest possible flowers from it,
+thus making it impossible to have luxuriance of branch or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> foliage. We
+thin it until there is not enough left of it to give it the dignity of a
+shrub. In short, as ornamental shrubs, Roses are failures with the
+exception of a few varieties, and these are not kinds in general
+cultivation. This being the case, it is advisable to locate the Rose-bed
+where it will not be greatly in evidence after the flowering season is
+ended. But try to have it where its glories can be enjoyed by the
+occupants of the home. Not under, or close to, the living-room windows,
+for that space should be reserved for summer flowers, but where it will
+be in full view, if possible, from the kitchen as well as the parlor.
+The flowering period of the Rose is so short that we must contrive to
+get the greatest possible amount of pleasure out of it, and in order to
+do that we want it where we can see it at all times.</p>
+
+<p>Very few of our best Roses are really hardy, though most of the
+florists' catalogues speak of them as being so. Many kinds lose the
+greater share of their branches during the winter, unless given good
+protection. Their roots, however, are seldom injured so severely that
+they will not send up a stout growth of new branches during the season,
+but this is not what we want. We want <i>Roses</i>,&mdash;lots of them,&mdash;and in
+order to have them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> we must contrive, in some way, to save as many of
+the last year's branches as possible. Fortunately, this can be done
+without a great deal of trouble.</p>
+
+<p>Here is my method of winter protection: Late in fall&mdash;generally about
+the first of November, or whenever there are indications that winter is
+about to close in upon us&mdash;I bend the bushes to the ground, and cover
+them with dry earth, leaves, litter from the barn, or evergreen
+branches. In doing this I am not aiming to keep the frost away from the
+plants, as might be supposed, but rather to prevent the sun from getting
+at the soil and thawing the frost that has taken possession of it.
+Scientific investigation has proven that a plant, though comparatively
+tender, is not seriously injured by freezing, if it can be <i>kept frozen</i>
+until the frost is extracted from it <i>naturally</i>,&mdash;that is, gradually
+and according to natural processes. It is the frequent alternation of
+freezing and thawing that does the harm. Therefore, if you have a tender
+Rose that you want to carry over winter in the open ground, give it
+ample protection as soon as the frost has got at it&mdash;before it has a
+chance to thaw out&mdash;and you can be reasonably sure of its coming through
+in spring in good condition. What I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> mean by the term "ample protection"
+is&mdash;a covering of one kind or another that will <i>shade</i> the plant and
+counteract the influence of the sun upon the frozen soil&mdash;not, as most
+amateurs seem to think, for the purpose of keeping the soil warm. I have
+already made mention of this scientific fact, and may do it again
+because it is a matter little understood, but is one of the greatest
+importance, hence my frequent reference to it.</p>
+
+<p>If earth is used as a covering, it should be dry, and after it is put
+on, boards, or something that will turn rain and water should be put
+over it. Old oil-cloth is excellent for this purpose. Canvas that has
+been given a coating of paint is good. Tarred sheathing-paper answers
+the purpose very well. Almost anything will do that prevents the earth
+from getting saturated with water, which, if allowed to stand among the
+branches, will prove quite as harmful as exposure to the fluctuations of
+winter weather. If leaves are used,&mdash;and these make an ideal covering if
+you can get enough of them,&mdash;they can be kept in place by laying coarse
+wire netting over them. Or evergreen branches can be used to keep the
+wind from blowing them away. These branches alone will be sufficient
+protection for the hardier kinds, such as Harrison's Yellow, Provence,
+Cab<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>bage, and the Mosses, anywhere south of New York. North of that
+latitude I would not advise depending on so slight a protection.
+Earth-covering is preferable for the northern section of the United
+States.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img136" id="img136"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p136.jpg" width="600" height="431" alt="ROSE TRELLIS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROSE TRELLIS</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is no easy matter to get sturdy Rose-bushes ready for winter. Their
+canes are stiff and brittle. Their thorns are formidable. One person,
+working alone, cannot do the entire work to advantage. It needs one to
+bend the bushes down and hold them in that position while the other
+applies the covering. In bending the bush, great care must be taken to
+prevent its being broken, or cracked, close to the ground. Provide
+yourself with gloves of substantial leather or thick canvas before you
+tackle them. Then take hold of the cane close to the ground, with the
+left hand, holding it firmly, grasp the upper part of it with the right
+hand, and proceed gently and cautiously with the work until you have it
+flat on the ground. If your left-hand grasp is a firm one, you can feel
+the bush yielding by degrees, and this is what you should be governed
+by. On no account work so rapidly that you do not feel the resistance of
+the branch giving way in a manner that assures you that it is adjusting
+itself safely to the force that is being applied to it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> When you have
+it on the ground, you will have to hold it there until it is covered
+with earth, unless you prefer to weight it down with something heavy
+enough to keep it in place while you cover it. Omit the weights, or
+relax your grip upon it, and the elastic branches will immediately
+spring back to their normal position. Sometimes, when a bush is
+stubbornly stiff, and refuses to yield without danger of injury, it is
+well to heap a pailful or two of earth against it, on the side toward
+which it is to be bent, thus enabling you to <i>curve</i> it over the
+heaped-up soil in such a manner as to avoid a sharp bend. Never hurry
+with this work. Take your time for it, and do it thoroughly, and
+thoroughness means carefulness, always. As a general thing, six or eight
+inches of dry soil will be sufficient covering for Roses at the north.
+If litter is used, the covering can be eight or ten inches deep.</p>
+
+<p>Do not apply any covering early in the season, as so many do for the
+sake of "getting the work out of the way." Wait until you are reasonably
+sure that cold weather is setting in.</p>
+
+<p>Teas, and the Bourbon and Bengal sections of the so-called
+ever-bloomers, are most satisfactorily wintered in the open ground by
+making a pen of boards about them, at least ten inches<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> deep, and
+filling it with leaves, packing them firmly over the laid-down plants.
+Then cover with something to shed rain. These very tender sorts cannot
+always be depended on to come through the winter safely at the north,
+even when given the best of protection, but where one has a bed of them
+that has afforded pleasure throughout the entire summer, quite naturally
+he dislikes to lose them if there is a possibility of saving them, and
+he will be willing to make an effort to carry them through the winter.
+If only part of them are saved, he will feel amply repaid for all his
+trouble. Generally all the old top will have to be cut away, but that
+does not matter with Roses of this class, as vigorous shoots will be
+sent up, early in the season, if the roots are alive, therefore little
+or no harm is done by the entire removal of the old growth.</p>
+
+<p>The best Roses to plant are those grown by reliable dealers who
+understand how to grow vigorous stock, and who are too honest to give a
+plant a wrong name. Some unscrupulous dealers, whose supply of plants is
+limited to a few of the kinds easiest to grow, will fill any order you
+send them, and your plants will come to you labelled to correspond with
+your order. But when they come into bloom, you may find<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> that you have
+got kinds that you did not order, and did not care for. The honest
+dealer never plays this trick on his customers. If he hasn't the kinds
+you order, he will tell you so. Therefore, before ordering, try to find
+out who the honest dealers are, and give no order to any firm not well
+recommended by persons in whose opinion you have entire confidence.
+There are scores of such firms, but they do not advertise as extensively
+as the newer ones, because they have many old customers who do their
+advertising for them by "speaking good words" in their favor to friends
+who need anything in their line.</p>
+
+<p>I would advise purchasing two-year-old plants, always. They have much
+stronger roots than those of the one-year-old class, and will give a
+fairly good crop of flowers the first season, as a general thing. And
+when one sets out a new Rose, he is always in a hurry to see "what it
+looks like."</p>
+
+<p>Be sure to buy plants on their own roots. It is claimed by many growers
+that many varieties of the Rose do better when grafted on vigorous stock
+than they do on their own roots, and this is doubtless true. But it is
+also true that the stock of these kinds can be increased more rapidly by
+grafting than from cuttings, and, because<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> of this, many dealers resort
+to this method of securing a supply of salable plants. It is money in
+their pockets to do so. But it is an objectionable plan, because the
+scion of a choice variety grafted to a root of an inferior kind is quite
+likely to die off, and when this happens you have a worthless plant.
+Strong and vigorous branches may be sent up from the root, but from them
+you will get no flowers, because the root from which they spring is that
+of a non-flowering sort. Many persons cannot understand why it is that
+plants so luxuriant in growth fail to bloom, but when they discover that
+this growth comes from the root <i>below where the graft was inserted</i>,
+the mystery is explained to them. When grafted plants are used, care
+must be taken to remove every shoot that appears about the plant <i>unless
+it is sent out above the graft</i>. If the shoots that are sent up from
+<i>below</i> the graft are allowed to remain, the grafted portion will soon
+die off, because these shoots from the root of the variety upon which it
+was "worked" will speedily rob it of vitality and render it worthless.
+All this risk is avoided by planting only kinds which are grown upon
+their own roots.</p>
+
+<p>In planting Roses, make the hole in which they are to be set large
+enough to admit of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> spreading out their roots evenly and naturally. Let
+it be deep enough to bring the roots about the same distance below the
+surface as the plant shows them to have been before it was taken from
+the nursery row. When the roots are properly straightened out, fill in
+about them with fine soil, and firm it down well, and then add two or
+three inches more of soil, after which at least a pailful of water
+should be applied to each plant, to thoroughly settle the soil between
+and about the roots. Avoid loose planting if you want your plants to get
+a good start, and do well. When all the soil has been returned to the
+hole, add a mulch of coarse manure to prevent too rapid evaporation of
+moisture while the plants are putting forth new feeding roots.</p>
+
+<p>If large-rooted plants are procured from the nursery, quite likely some
+of the larger roots will be injured by the spade in lifting them from
+the row. Look over these roots carefully, and cut off the ends of all
+that have been bruised, before planting. A smooth cut will heal readily,
+but a ragged one will not.</p>
+
+<p>We have several classes or divisions of Roses adapted to culture at the
+north. The June Roses are those which give a bountiful crop of flowers
+at the beginning of summer, but none thereafter.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> This class includes
+the Provence, the Mosses, the Scotch and Austrian kinds, Harrison's
+Yellow, Madame Plantier, and the climbers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img142" id="img142"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p142.jpg" width="600" height="446" alt="RAMBLER ROSES" title="" />
+<span class="caption">RAMBLER ROSES</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Hybrid Perpetuals bloom profusely in early summer, and sparingly
+thereafter, at intervals, until the coming of cold weather. These are,
+in many respects, the most beautiful of all Roses.</p>
+
+<p>The ever-bloomers are made up of Bengal, Bourbon, Tea and Noisette
+varieties. These are small in habit of growth, but exquisitely beautiful
+in form and color, and most kinds are so delightfully fragrant, and
+flower so freely from June to the coming of cold weather, that no garden
+should be without a bed of them.</p>
+
+<p>The Rugosa Roses are more valuable as shrubs than as flowering plants,
+though their large, bright, single flowers are extremely attractive.
+Their chief attraction is their beautifully crinkled foliage, of a rich
+green, and their bright crimson fruit which is retained throughout the
+season. This class gives flowers, at intervals, from June to October.</p>
+
+<p>Hybrid Perpetuals must be given special treatment in order to secure
+flowers from them throughout the season. Their blossoms are always
+produced on new growth, therefore, if<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> you would keep them producing
+flowers, you must keep them growing. This is done by feeding the plant
+liberally, and cutting back the branches upon which flowers have been
+produced to a strong bud from which a new branch can be developed. In
+this way we keep the plant constantly renewing itself, and in the
+process of renewal we are likely to get a good many flowers where we
+would get few, or none, if we were to let the plant take care of itself.
+The term "perpetual" is, however, a misleading one, as it suggests a
+constant production of flowers. Most varieties of this class, as has
+been said, will bloom occasionally, after the first generous crop of the
+season, but never very freely, and often not at all unless the treatment
+outlined above is carefully followed. But so beautiful are the Roses of
+this class that one fine flower is worth a score of ordinary blossoms,
+and the lover of the Rose will willingly devote a good deal of time and
+labor to the production of it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="img145" id="img145"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p145.jpg" width="450" height="384" alt="DOROTHY PERKINS ROSE&mdash;THE BEST OF THE RAMBLERS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">DOROTHY PERKINS ROSE&mdash;THE BEST OF THE RAMBLERS</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Ramblers, now so popular, constitute a class by themselves, in many
+respects. They are of wonderfully vigorous habit, have a score or more
+of flowers where others have but one bloom early in the season, and give
+a wonderful show of color. The individual blossoms are too small<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> to
+please the critical Rose-grower, but there are so many in each cluster,
+and these clusters are so numerous, that the general effect is most
+charming. Crimson Rambler is too well known to need description. The
+variety that deserves a place at the very head of the list, allowing me
+to be judge, is Dorothy Perkins. This variety is of slenderer growth
+than Crimson Rambler, therefore of more vine-like habit, and, on this
+account, better adapted to use about porches and verandas, where it can
+be trained along the cornice in a graceful fashion that the
+stiff-branched Crimson Rambler will not admit of. Its foliage is not so
+large as that of the other variety named, but it is much more
+attractive, being finely cut, and having a glossy surface that adds much
+to the beauty of the plant. But the chief charm of the plant is its soft
+pink flowers, dainty and delicate in the extreme. These are produced in
+long, loose sprays instead of crowded clusters, thus making the effect
+of a plant in full bloom vastly more graceful than that of any of the
+others of the class.</p>
+
+<p>Roses have their enemies, and it would seem as if there must be some
+sort of understanding among them as to the date of attack, because
+nearly all of them put in an appearance at about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> the same time. The
+aphis I find no difficulty in keeping down by the use of Nicoticide&mdash;a
+very strongly concentrated extract of the nicotine principle of tobacco.
+This should be diluted with water, as directed on the cans or bottles in
+which it is put up, and applied to all parts of the bush with a sprayer.
+Do not wait for the aphis to appear before beginning warfare against
+him. You can count on his coming, therefore it is well to act on the
+offensive, instead of the defensive, for it is an easier matter to keep
+him away altogether than it is to get rid of him after he has taken
+possession of your bushes. If he finds the tang of Nicoticide clinging
+to the foliage on his arrival, he will speedily conclude that it will be
+made extremely uncomfortable for him, if he decides to locate, and he
+will look for more congenial quarters elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>For the worm that does so much injury to our plants at the time when
+they are just getting ready to bloom, I use an emulsion made by adding
+two quarts kerosene to one part of laundry soap. The soap should be
+reduced to a liquid, and allowed to become very hot, before the oil is
+added. Then agitate the two rapidly and forcibly until they unite in a
+jelly-like substance. The easiest and quickest way to secure an
+emul<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>sion is by using a brass syringe such as florists sprinkle their
+plants with. Insert it in the vessel containing the oil and soap, and
+draw into it as much of the liquids as it will contain, and then expel
+them with as much force as possible, and continue to do this until the
+desired union has taken place. Use one part of the emulsion to eight or
+ten parts water, and make sure it reaches every portion of the bush.</p>
+
+<p>In Rose-culture, as in every branch of floriculture, the price of
+success is constant vigilance. If you do not get the start of insect
+enemies, and keep them under control, they will almost invariably ruin
+your crop of flowers, and often the bushes themselves. Therefore be
+thorough and persistent in the warfare waged against the common enemy,
+and do not relax your efforts until he is routed.</p>
+
+<p>In making a selection of Hybrid Perpetuals for home planting, the
+amateur finds it difficult to choose from the long lists sent out by
+many dealers. He wants the best and most representative of the class,
+but he doesn't know which these are. If I were asked to select a dozen
+kinds, my choice would be the following:</p>
+
+<p>Alfred Colomb. Bright crimson. Fragrant.</p>
+
+<p>Anna de Diesbach. Carmine. Fragrant.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Baroness Rothschild. Soft pink.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Hayward. Deep rose. Perfect in form.</p>
+
+<p>Frau Carl Druschki. Pure white.</p>
+
+<p>General Jacqueminot. Brilliant crimson. Very sweet.</p>
+
+<p>Jules Margottin. Rosy crimson.</p>
+
+<p>Mabel Morrison. White, delicately shaded with blush.</p>
+
+<p>Magna Charta. Glowing carmine. A lovely flower.</p>
+
+<p>Madame Gabriel de Luizet. Delicate pink. Exquisite.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. John Laing. Soft pink. Very fragrant.</p>
+
+<p>Ulrich Brunner. Bright cherry red.</p>
+
+<p>To increase the above list would be to duplicate colors, for nearly all
+the other kinds included in the dealers' lists are variations of the
+distinctive qualities of the above. The twelve named will give you more
+pleasure than a larger number of less distinctive kinds would, for in
+each merit stands out pre-eminent, and all the best qualities of the
+best Roses are represented in the list.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_ROSE_AS_A_SUMMER_BEDDER" id="THE_ROSE_AS_A_SUMMER_BEDDER"></a>THE ROSE AS A SUMMER BEDDER</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_t.jpg" width="160" height="155" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="T" />
+</div>
+<p>HE amateur gardener may enjoy Roses from June to November if he is
+willing to take a little trouble for them. Not, however, with the
+material treated of in the chapter on "The Rose"&mdash;though what is said
+in it relative to the culture of the Hybrid Perpetual class applies with
+considerable pertinence to the classes of which I shall make special
+mention in this chapter&mdash;but with the summer-blooming sorts, such as the
+Teas, the Bengals, the Bourbons, and the Noisettes. These are classed in
+the catalogues as ever-bloomers, and the term is much more appropriate
+to them than the term Hybrid Perpetual is to that section of the great
+Rose family, for all of the four classes named above <i>are</i> really
+ever-bloomers if given the right kind of treatment&mdash;that is, bloomers
+throughout the summer season. In them we find material from which it is
+easy to secure a constant supply of flowers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> from the beginning of
+summer to the closing in of winter.</p>
+
+<p>In order to grow this class of Roses well, one must understand something
+of their habits. They send out strong branches from the base of the
+plant, shortly after planting, and these branches will generally bear
+from five to eight blossoms. When all the buds on the branch have
+developed into flowers, nothing more can be expected from that branch in
+the way of bloom, unless it can be coaxed to send out other branches.
+This it can be prevailed on to do by close pruning. Cut the old branch
+back to some point along its length&mdash;preferably near its base&mdash;where
+there is a strong "eye" or bud. If the soil is rich&mdash;and it can hardly
+be <i>too rich</i>, for these Roses, like those of the kinds treated of in
+the foregoing chapter, require strong food and a great deal of it in
+order to do themselves justice&mdash;this bud will soon develop into a
+vigorous branch which, like the original one, will bear a cluster of
+flowers. In order to keep a succession of bloom it is absolutely
+necessary to keep the plant producing new branches, as flowers are only
+borne on new growth. It will be noticed that the treatment required by
+these Roses is almost identical, so far, with that advised for the
+Hybrid Perpetuals. Indeed, the latter are summer ever-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>bloomers of a
+stronger habit than the class I am now speaking about. That is about all
+the difference there is between them, up to this point, except as
+regards the flowering habit. The Hybrid Perpetual blooms profusely in
+June and July, but sparingly thereafter, while the ever-bloomers bloom
+freely all the season after they get a good start.</p>
+
+<p>Fertilizer should be applied at least once a month. Not in large
+quantities, each time, but enough to stimulate a strong and healthy
+growth. The plants should be kept going ahead constantly. Let them get a
+check, and you will find it a difficult matter to get many flowers from
+them after that, the same season. Give them the treatment that results
+in continuous growth and you will have Roses in abundance up to the
+coming of cold weather. Of course plants so treated are not to be
+expected to attain much size. But who cares for large bushes if he can
+have fine flowers and plenty of them?</p>
+
+<p>The blossoms from the Teas and their kindred are never as large as those
+of the June and the Hybrid Perpetual classes, and, as a general thing,
+are not as brilliant in color. Some are delightfully fragrant, while
+some have no fragrance at all.</p>
+
+<p>La France,&mdash;which is classed as a Hybrid Tea,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> because it is the result
+of hybridizing one of the hardier varieties with a pure-blooded Tea
+variety,&mdash;is one of the finest Roses ever grown. It is large, and fine
+in form, rich, though not brilliant, in color, is a very free bloomer,
+and its fragrance is indescribably sweet. Indeed, all the sweetness of
+the entire Rose family seems concentrated in its peculiar, powerful,
+but, at the same time, delicate odor. Color, pale pink.</p>
+
+<p>Duchess de Brabant is an old variety, popular years and years ago, but
+all the better for that, for its long-continued popularity proves it the
+possessor of exceptional merit. It is of very free development, and
+bears large quantities of flowers of silvery pink.</p>
+
+<p>Viscountess Folkestone is, like La France, a Hybrid Tea. It is an
+excellent bloomer. Its color is a soft pink, shaded with cream, with
+reflexed petals. It has a rich, June-Rose fragrance.</p>
+
+<p>Maman Cochet is, all things considered, one of the best of its class. It
+blooms in wonderful profusion. It is a strong grower. Its color is a
+bright pink, overlaid with silvery lustre. It is very double, and quite
+as lovely in bud as in the expanded flower.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 396px;"><a name="img152" id="img152"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p152.jpg" width="396" height="550" alt="TEA ROSE" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TEA ROSE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Hermosa is an old favorite. It is always in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> bloom when well cared
+for. Its rich carmine-rose flowers are very double, and are produced in
+prodigal profusion. But it lacks the charm of fragrance.</p>
+
+<p>Caprice is a very peculiar variety. Its thick, waxen petals of rosy
+carmine are heavily blotched and striped with dark red, shading to
+crimson. It is most pleasing when the flower begins to expand.</p>
+
+<p>Perle des Jardins is a most lovely Rose, of almost as rich a color as
+the famous Marechal Neil,&mdash;a deep, glowing yellow,&mdash;lovely beyond
+description. It is a very free bloomer, and should be given a place in
+all collections.</p>
+
+<p>Sunset&mdash;another good bloomer&mdash;is a tawny yellow in color, flamed with
+fawn and coppery tints. It is an exquisite Rose.</p>
+
+<p>Clothilde Soupert does not properly belong to either of the four classes
+mentioned above, though of course closely related. It is catalogued as a
+Polyantha. Its habit is peculiar. It bears enormous quantities of
+flowers, with the greatest freedom of any Rose I have ever grown, but
+its blossoms are small, and are produced in clusters quite unlike those
+of the other members of the ever-blooming class. Indeed, its habit of
+growth and flowering is quite like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> that of the Rambler varieties, on a
+small scale. But, unlike the Ramblers, its flowers are very double. They
+are produced at the extremity of the new branches, in clusters of
+fifteen to twenty and thirty. So many are there to each branch that you
+will find it advisable to thin out half of them if you want perfect
+flowers. In color it is a delicate pink on first opening, fading to
+almost white. At the centre of the flower it is a bright carmine. Give
+this variety a trial and you will be delighted with it.</p>
+
+<p>It must not be understood that the above list includes all the desirable
+sorts adapted to general culture. It is simply a list of the most
+distinct varieties that respond satisfactorily to the treatment
+outlined, and from which the amateur gardener can expect the best
+results. There are scores of other varieties possessing exceptional
+merit, but many of them require the attention of the professional in
+order to give satisfaction, and are not what I feel warranted in
+recommending the amateur to undertake the culture of if large quantities
+of flowers are what he has in mind. Every one on the list given is a
+standard variety, and you will find that you have made no mistake in
+confining your selection to it.</p>
+
+<p>I would advise the purchase of two-year-old<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> plants. Younger plants
+seldom bloom with much profusion the first season.</p>
+
+<p>Order your plants in April. Get them into the ground about the middle of
+May. Mulch the soil about them well. This will do away with the
+necessity of watering if the season happens to prove a dry one. In
+planting, be governed by the directions given in the chapter on "The
+Rose."</p>
+
+<p>Try a bed of these ever-bloomers for a season and you will never
+afterward be without them. Other flowers will rival them in brilliance,
+perhaps, and may require less attention, but&mdash;they will not be Roses!
+One fine Rose affords more pleasure to the lover of the best among
+flowers than a whole garden full of ordinary blossoms can, and this is
+why I urge all flower-loving people to undertake the culture of the
+ever-blooming class of Roses, for I know they will give greater
+satisfaction than anything else you can grow.</p>
+
+<p>In fall, the plants can be taken up, packed away in boxes of earth, and
+kept in the cellar over winter. Cut away almost the entire top when the
+plants are lifted. All that one cares to carry through the winter is the
+root of the plant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_DAHLIA" id="THE_DAHLIA"></a>THE DAHLIA</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_t.jpg" width="160" height="155" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="T" />
+</div>
+<p>HIRTY or forty years ago the Dahlia was one of our popular flowers.
+That is, popular among those who aspired to "keep up with the times,"
+and grow all the new plants that had real merit in them. At that time
+but one form of it was considered worth growing, and that was the very
+double, globular type of flower. The single varieties were looked upon
+as worthless.</p>
+
+<p>After a time the popularity of the flower waned for some reason hard to
+account for, except on the theory that there are fashions in flowers as
+in clothes. I presume that the true explanation is that we Americans are
+prone to run to extremes, and when we take up a plant and it becomes a
+favorite we overdo matters and tire of it because we see so much of it.
+Then we relegate it to the background for a time, and after awhile we
+drag it out of the obscurity to which we temporarily consigned it as a
+penalty for its popularity, and straightway it comes into<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> greater
+prominence than ever, precisely as does the cut of a sleeve or the style
+of hair-dressing. This explanation may not be very complimentary to
+American good sense or taste, but I think it goes to the root of the
+matter. It is sincerely to be hoped that the time will come when our
+flower-growing will have no trace of the fad about it, and that whatever
+we cultivate will grow into favor solely because of real merit, and that
+its popularity will be permanent. I am encouraged to think that such may
+be the case, for some of the favorite flowers of the day have held their
+own against all newcomers for a considerable period, and seem to be
+growing in favor every year. This is as it should be.</p>
+
+<p>It used to be thought that the Dahlia could not be grown successfully at
+the north if it were not started into growth in the house, or
+greenhouse, very early in the season. Nine times out of ten the result
+was a weak, spindling plant by the time it was safe to put it into the
+ground&mdash;which was not until all danger from frost was over. Generally
+such plants were not strong enough to bloom until about the time frost
+came in fall, for it took them the greater part of the season to recover
+from the effect of early forcing, in which the vitality of the plant
+suffered almost<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> to the point of extinction, and to which was added the
+ordeal of the change from in- to out-door conditions. "Our seasons are
+too short for it," was the universal verdict. "At the south it may do
+well, but there's no use in trying to do anything with it at the north
+unless one has a greenhouse, and understands the peculiarities of the
+plant better than the rank and file of flower-loving people can expect
+to." So it came about that its cultivation was given up by small
+gardeners, and it was seen only on the grounds of the wealthier people,
+who could afford the services of the professional gardener.</p>
+
+<p>We have learned, of late years, that our treatment of the plant was
+almost the opposite of what was required.</p>
+
+<p>Some eight or ten years ago, I ordered a collection of choice varieties
+of the Dahlia. I ordered them early in the season, expecting to start
+them into growth in pots as usual. For some reason they did not come
+until the last day of May. It was then too late to start them in the
+usual way, and I planted them in the garden, expecting they would amount
+to nothing.</p>
+
+<p>The result was, to me, a most surprising one.</p>
+
+<p>The place in which I planted them was one whose soil was very rich and
+mellow. It was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> near a pump, from which a great deal of water was thrown
+out every day.</p>
+
+<p>In less than a week after planting, the tubers threw up strong shoots,
+and these grew very rapidly under the combined effects of rich soil,
+warmth, and plenty of moisture at the roots. Indeed, they went ahead so
+rapidly that I considered their growth a discouraging feature, as I felt
+sure it must be a weak one.</p>
+
+<p>The result was that when the State Horticultural Society held its summer
+meeting in the village in which I resided, on the twenty-eighth of
+August, I placed on exhibition some of the finest specimens of Dahlia
+blossoms the members of the Society had ever seen, and carried off eight
+first premiums.</p>
+
+<p>Since then I have never attempted to start my Dahlias in the house. I
+give them an extremely rich soil, spaded up to the depth of at least a
+foot and a half, and made so mellow that the new roots find it an easy
+matter to work their way through it. Water is applied freely during the
+season. I consider this an item of great importance, as I find that the
+plant fails to make satisfactory development when located in a dry
+place. A pailful of water a day is not too much to apply to each plant
+in a dry season.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The soil must be rich. In a poor soil development will be on a par with
+that of plants which have been given a dry place.</p>
+
+<p>Because of the peculiar brittleness of the stalks of the Dahlia it is
+quite necessary to furnish them with good support. My plan is to set a
+stout stake by each plant, at planting-time. This should be at least
+five feet tall. I put it in place at the time of planting the tuber,
+because then I know just where the root of the future plant is, and can
+set the stake without injuring it. But if stake-setting is left until
+later in the season one runs a risk of breaking off some of the new
+tubers that have formed about the old one. I tie the main stalk of the
+plant to the stake with a strip of cloth instead of a string, as the
+latter will cut into the soft wood. Sometimes, if the plant sends up a
+good many stalks, it will be necessary to furnish additional support.
+Unless some kind of support is given we are likely to get up some
+morning after a heavy rain, or a sudden wind, and find our plants broken
+down, and in attempting to save them we are pretty sure to complete the
+wreck, as a slight twist or turn in the wrong direction will snap the
+stalk off at its junction with the root.</p>
+
+<p>The Dahlia will be found one of our very best<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> plants for use in the
+border where something is needed for a filler. It is very effective as a
+hedge, and can be used to great advantage to hide a fence. Single
+specimens are fine for prominent locations on the grounds about the
+house. In fact, it is a plant that can be made useful anywhere.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="img160" id="img160"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p160.jpg" width="400" height="281" alt="CACTUS DAHLIA" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CACTUS DAHLIA</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In fall, when our early frosts come, it will be necessary to protect it
+on cool nights, as it is extremely tender. This can be easily done by
+setting some stout sticks about the plant and covering it with a sheet.
+If tided over the frosty weather that usually comes for two or three
+nights about the middle of September, it will bloom profusely during the
+weeks of pleasant weather that almost always follow the early frosts,
+and then is when it will be enjoyed most.</p>
+
+<p>When the frost has killed its stalks, it should be dug and got ready for
+winter. Lift the great mass of roots that will have grown from the
+little tuber planted at the beginning of the season, and do this without
+breaking them apart, if possible. Spread them out in the sun. At night
+cover with a blanket, and next day expose them to sunshine again. Do
+this for several days in succession until the soil that is lifted with
+them will crumble away easily. Exposure to sunshine has<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> the effect of
+relieving them of a good deal of moisture which they contain in great
+quantity when first dug, and which ought to be got rid of, in a large
+degree, before they are stored in the cellar.</p>
+
+<p>The tubers should never be placed on the cellar-bottom, because of the
+dampness that is generally found there. I spread mine out on shelves of
+wire netting, suspended four or five feet from the floor. If they show
+signs of mould I know they are too damp, and elevate the shelves still
+more, in order to get the tubers into a dryer stratum of air. If they
+seem to be shrivelling too much, I lower the shelves a little. Cellars
+differ so much that one can only tell where the right place is by
+experimenting. Watch your tubers carefully. A little neglect will often
+result in failure, as mould, once given a chance to secure a foothold,
+is rapid in its action, and your tubers may be beyond help before you
+discover that there is anything the matter with them. As soon as you
+find a mouldy root, throw it out. If left it will speedily communicate
+its disease to every plant with which it comes in contact. Some persons
+tell me that they succeed in wintering their Dahlia tubers best by
+packing them in boxes of perfectly dry sand. If this is done, be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> sure
+to elevate the box from the floor of the cellar.</p>
+
+<p>Quite naturally persons have an idea that the best results will be
+secured by planting out the whole bunch of tubers, in spring. This is a
+mistake. One good tuber, with an "eye," or growing point, will make a
+much better plant than the whole bunch set out together.</p>
+
+<p>To sum up the treatment I advise in the cultivation of the Dahlia:</p>
+
+<p>Have the ground very rich.</p>
+
+<p>Have it worked deeply.</p>
+
+<p>Plant single tubers about the first of June.</p>
+
+<p>Furnish a good support.</p>
+
+<p>See that the ground is well supplied with moisture.</p>
+
+<p>There has been a great change of opinion with regard to the Dahlia. We
+no longer confine ourselves to one type of it. The single varieties,
+which were despised of old, are now prime favorites&mdash;preferred by many
+to any other kind. The old very double "show" and "fancy" varieties are
+largely grown, but they share public favor with the "decoratives," the
+pompones, and the cactus, and, as I have said, the single forms. Which
+of these forms is most popular it would be hard to say. All of them have
+enthusiastic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> champions, and the best thing to do is to try them all.</p>
+
+<p>"Show" Dahlias are those with large and very double flowers of a single
+color, and those in which the ground color is of a lighter shade than
+the edges or tips of the petals. The outer petals recurve, as the flower
+develops, until they meet at the stem, thus giving us a ball-like
+blossom.</p>
+
+<p>"Fancy" Dahlias are those having striped petals, and those in which the
+ground color is darker than the edges or tips of the petals. This class,
+as a rule, is very variable, and a plant will often have flowers showing
+but one color. Sometimes half the flower will be one color, half
+another.</p>
+
+<p>The Pompone or Liliputian class is a miniature edition of the show and
+fancy sorts, quite as rich in color and perfect in form as either, but
+of a dwarf habit of growth. This class is well adapted to bedding out in
+summer.</p>
+
+<p>The Cactus Dahlia has long pointed or twisted petals. Most varieties are
+single, but some are semi-double. This is the class that will be likely
+to find favor with those who admire the ragged Japanese Chrysanthemums.</p>
+
+<p>Decorative Dahlias have broad, flat petals,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> somewhat loosely arranged,
+and much less formal than those of the show, fancy, or pompone sorts.
+Their flowers seldom have more than two rows of petals, and are flat,
+showing a yellow disc at the centre. As a general thing they are
+produced on long stalk, a flower to a stalk. This makes them very useful
+for cutting. They are the most graceful members of the entire Dahlia
+family, allowing me to be judge.</p>
+
+<p>The single type has but one row of petals. Plants of this class are very
+strong growers, and can be used to advantage in the back rows of the
+border.</p>
+
+<p>No flower in cultivation to-day has a wider range of color than the
+Dahlia, and nearly all the colors represented in it are wonderfully rich
+in tone. From the purest white to the richest crimson, the deepest
+scarlet, delicate pink and carmine, rich yellow, dark purple, orange and
+palest primrose,&mdash;surely all tastes can find something to please them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_GLADIOLUS" id="THE_GLADIOLUS"></a>THE GLADIOLUS</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_o.jpg" width="160" height="144" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="O" />
+</div>
+<p>NE of the most popular flowers of the day is the Gladiolus. All things
+considered, it is our best summer bloomer. Nothing in the floral world
+exceeds it in variety and range of color. This color is in some
+varieties dark and rich in scarlets, crimsons, and purples, in others
+dainty and delicate in pink, pearly flesh, almost pure white, and
+softest rose, while the midway sorts are in brilliant carmines,
+cherry-reds, lilacs, and intermediate tones too numerous to mention.
+Nearly all varieties show most magnificent combinations of color that
+baffle description. Comparatively few varieties are one color
+throughout.</p>
+
+<p>Most plants in which such a bewildering variety of color is found have a
+tendency to coarseness, but this objection cannot be urged against the
+Gladiolus. It has all the delicacy of the Orchid. Its habit of growth
+fits it admirably for use in the border. Its ease of cultivation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> makes
+it a favorite with the amateur who has only a limited amount of time to
+spend among the flowers. It is a plant that any one can grow, and it is
+a plant that will grow almost anywhere. It is one of the few plants that
+seem almost able to take care of themselves. Beyond putting the corms in
+the ground, in spring, and an occasional weeding as the plant develops,
+very little attention is required.</p>
+
+<p>To secure the best effect from it, the Gladiolus should be planted in
+masses. Single specimens are far less satisfactory. One must see fifty
+or a hundred plants in a bed ten or fifteen feet long to fully
+appreciate what it is capable of doing.</p>
+
+<p>The time to plant it is in May, after the soil has become warm. Nothing
+is gained by earlier planting.</p>
+
+<p>The bed should be spaded to the depth of a foot, at least. Then the soil
+should be worked over until it is fine and light. A liberal quantity of
+some good fertilizer should be added to it. Commercial fertilizers seem
+to suit it well, but the use of barnyard manure gives excellent results,
+and I would prefer it, if obtainable.</p>
+
+<p>The corms should be put about four inches below the surface, care being
+exercised at the time of planting to see that they are right side up.
+It<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> is often difficult to decide this matter before sprouting begins,
+but a little careful examination of the corm will soon enable you to
+tell where the sprouts will start from, and this will prevent you from
+getting it wrong-side up. As soon as the plants send up a stalk, some
+provision should be made for future support. If you prefer to stake the
+beds, set the stakes in rows about two feet apart. Wire or cord need not
+be stretched on them until the stalks are half grown. The reason for
+setting the stakes early in the season is&mdash;you know just where the corm
+is then, but later on you will not be able to tell where the new corms
+are, and in setting the stakes at random you are quite likely to injure
+them. When you apply the cord or wire to the stakes, run it lengthwise
+of the bed, and then across it in order to furnish a sufficient support
+without obliging the stalks to lean from the perpendicular to get the
+benefit of it.</p>
+
+<p>For several seasons past, I have made use of a coarse-meshed wire
+netting, placed over the bed, and fastened to stakes about eighteen
+inches high. The stalks find no difficulty in making their way through
+the large meshes of the netting, and with a support of this kind they
+dispose themselves in a natural manner that is far more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> satisfactory
+than tying them to stakes, as we often see done. Some kind of a support
+must be given if we would guard against injury caused by strong winds.
+When the flower-stalk is once prostrated it is a difficult matter to get
+it back in place without breaking it.</p>
+
+<p>If netting is used it need not be placed over the bed before the middle
+of July. By that time most of the weeds which require attention during
+the early part of the season will have been disposed of. Putting on the
+netting at an earlier period would greatly interfere with the proper
+cultivation of the bed. The soil should be kept light and open until the
+flower-stalks begin to show their buds.</p>
+
+<p>The flowering-period covers several weeks, beginning in August, and
+lasting all through September.</p>
+
+<p>The Gladiolus is extremely effective for interior decorative work. It
+lasts for days after being cut. Indeed, if cut when the first flowers at
+the base of the spike open, it will continue to develop the buds above
+until all have become flowers, if the water in which the stalks are
+placed is changed daily, and a bit of the end of the stalk is cut off
+each time. For church use no flower excels it except the Lily, and that
+we can have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> for only a short time, and quite often not at all.</p>
+
+<p>In late October the plants should be lifted, and spread out in the
+sunshine to ripen. Do not cut the stalks away until you are ready to
+store the corms. Then cut off each stalk about two inches from its
+junction with the corm. When the roots seem well dried out, put them in
+paper bags containing perfectly dry sawdust or buckwheat shells, and
+hang them in a dry place where the frost will not get at them. I would
+not advise storing them in the cellar, as they generally mould or mildew
+there.</p>
+
+<p>Most varieties increase quite rapidly. You will find several new corms
+in fall, taking the place of the old one planted in spring. Often there
+will be scores of little fellows the size of a pea, clustered about the
+larger corms. These should be saved, and planted out next spring. Sow
+them close together in rows, as you would wheat. The following year they
+will bloom.</p>
+
+<p>So extensively is the Gladiolus grown at the present time that enough to
+fill a good-sized bed can be bought for a small sum. And in no other way
+can you invest a little money and be sure of such generous returns. What
+the Geranium is to the window-garden that the Gladiolus is to the
+outdoor garden, and one is of as easy culture as the other.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 441px;"><a name="img170" id="img170"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p170.jpg" width="441" height="600" alt="A GARDEN GLIMPSE" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A GARDEN GLIMPSE</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Some of the choicest varieties are sold at a high price. One reason for
+this is&mdash;the finest varieties are slow to increase, and it takes a long
+time to get much of a stock together. This is why they are so rare, and
+so expensive. But many of them are well worth all that is asked for
+them.</p>
+
+<p>You may have a mixed collection of a thousand plants and fail to find a
+worthless variety among them. Indeed, some of the very finest flowers I
+have ever had have been grown from collections that cost so little that
+one hardly expected to find anything but the commonest flowers among
+them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="LILIES" id="LILIES"></a>LILIES</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_t.jpg" width="160" height="155" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="T" />
+</div>
+<p>HE Rose, like the Lily, is a general favorite. It has more than once
+disputed the claim of its rival to the title of Queen of Flowers, and
+though it has never succeeded in taking the place of the latter in the
+estimation of the average flower-lover, it occupies a position in the
+floral world that no other flower dare aspire to.</p>
+
+<p>This plant does well only in soils that have the best of drainage.
+Water, if allowed to stand about its roots in spring, will soon be the
+death of it.</p>
+
+<p>Therefore, in planting it be sure to choose a location that is naturally
+well drained, or provide artificial drainage that will make up for the
+lack of natural drainage. This is an item you cannot afford to overlook
+if you want to grow the finest varieties of Lilies in your garden. Some
+of our native Lilies grow on low lands, and do well there, but none of
+the choicer kinds would long survive under such conditions. The
+probabili<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>ties are that if we planted them there we would never see
+anything more of them.</p>
+
+<p>The ideal soil for the Lily seems to be a fine loam. I have grown good
+ones, however, in a soil containing considerable clay and gravel. This
+was on a sidehill where drainage was perfect. Had the location been
+lower, or a level one, very likely the plants would not have done so
+well.</p>
+
+<p>The bulbs should be put into the ground as early in September as
+possible.</p>
+
+<p>On no account allow the bulbs to be exposed to the air. If you do, they
+will rapidly part with the moisture stored up in their scales, and this
+is their life-blood.</p>
+
+<p>It is a good plan to put a handful of clean, coarse sand about each bulb
+at planting-time.</p>
+
+<p>If barnyard manure is used,&mdash;and there is nothing better in the way of
+fertilizer for any bulb,&mdash;be sure that it is old and well rotted. On no
+account should fresh manure be allowed to come in contact with a Lily.
+If barnyard manure is not to be had, use bonemeal. Mix it well with the
+soil before putting the bulbs into it.</p>
+
+<p>Bulbs of ordinary size should be planted about eight inches below the
+surface. If in groups, about a foot apart.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The best place for Lilies, so far as show goes, is among shrubbery, or
+in the border.</p>
+
+<p>Below I give a list of the best varieties for general cultivation, with
+a brief description of each:</p>
+
+<p><i>Auratum</i> (the Gold-Banded Lily).&mdash;Probably the most popular member of
+the family, though by no means the most beautiful. Flowers white, dotted
+with crimson, with a gold band running through each petal.</p>
+
+<p><i>Speciosum album.</i>&mdash;A beautiful pure-white variety. Deliciously
+fragrant.</p>
+
+<p><i>Speciosum rubrum</i> (the Crimson-Banded Lily).&mdash;Flowers white with a red
+band down each petal.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brownsii.</i>&mdash;A splendid variety. Flowers very large, and trumpet-shaped.
+Chocolate-purple outside, pure white within, with dark brown stamens
+that contrast finely with the whiteness of the inner part of the petals.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tigrinum</i> (Tiger Lily).&mdash;One of the hardiest of all Lilies. Flowers
+orange-red, spotted with brownish-black. This will succeed where none of
+the others will. Should be given a place in all gardens.</p>
+
+<p><i>Superbum.</i>&mdash;The finest of all our native Lilies. Orange flowers,
+spotted with purple. Often<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> grows to a height of eight feet, therefore
+is well adapted to prominent positions in the border.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 335px;"><a name="img174" id="img174"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p174.jpg" width="335" height="450" alt="AURATUM LILY" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AURATUM LILY</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>While the Lily of the Valley is, strictly speaking, <i>not</i> a Lily, it
+deserves mention here. It is one of the most beautiful flowers we grow,
+of the purest white, and with the most delightful fragrance, and foliage
+that admirably sets off the exquisite loveliness of its flowers. No
+garden that "lives up to its privileges" will be without it. It does
+best in a shady place. Almost any soil seems to suit it. It is very
+hardy. It spreads rapidly, sending up a flower-stalk from every "pip."
+When the ground becomes completely matted with it, it is well to go over
+the bed and cut out portions here and there. The roots thus cut away can
+be broken apart and used in the formation of new beds, of which there
+can hardly be too many. The roots of the old plants will soon fill the
+places from which these were taken, and the old bed will be all the
+better for its thinning-out. Coming so early in spring, we appreciate
+this most beautiful plant more than we do any flower of the later
+season. And no flower of any time can excel it in daintiness, purity,
+and sweetness.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PLANTS_FOR_SPECIAL_PURPOSES" id="PLANTS_FOR_SPECIAL_PURPOSES"></a>PLANTS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_a.jpg" width="160" height="147" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="A" />
+</div>
+<p>MATEUR gardeners are always wanting plants for some special purpose,
+and, for their benefit, I propose to devote this chapter to
+"special-purpose" information.</p>
+
+<p>"What shall we grow to shade doors and windows? We want something that
+will grow rapidly. If a flowering vine, all the better, but shade is the
+all-important consideration."</p>
+
+<p>The best large-growing vine for this purpose, all things considered, is
+the Wild Cucumber. No other annual vine exceeds it in rapidity of
+growth. It will grow twenty or twenty-five feet in a season, if given
+something to support it to that height, therefore it is very useful
+about the second-story windows, which height few of our annual vines
+attain. It has very bright-green, pretty foliage, somewhat resembling
+that of the native Grape, though not so large. About midsummer it comes
+into bloom. Its flowers are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> white,&mdash;delicate, fringy little things, in
+spikes, with a very agreeable fragrance, especially in the morning when
+wet with dew,&mdash;and there are so many of them that the vine looks as if
+drifted over with a fall of snow. The plant has tendrils by which it
+attaches itself to anything with which it comes in contact, consequently
+strings, latticework, or wire netting answer equally well for its
+support. Its tendency is to go straight up, if whatever support is given
+encourages it to do so, but if you think advisable to divert it from its
+upward course all you have to do is to stretch strings in whatever
+direction you want it to grow, and it will follow them. Its flowers are
+followed by balloon-shaped fruit, covered with prickly spines&mdash;little
+ball-shaped cucumbers, hence the popular name of the plant. When the
+seeds ripen, the ball or pod bursts open, and the black seeds are shot
+out with considerable force, often to a distance of twenty feet or more.
+In this way the plant soon spreads itself all over the garden, and next
+spring you will have seedling plants by the hundred. It soon becomes a
+wild plant, and is often seen growing all along the roadside, and never
+quite so much "at home" as when it finds a thicket of bushes to clamber
+over. It has one drawback, however, which will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> be especially noticeable
+when the plant is domesticated: Its early leaves ripen and fall off
+while those farther up the vine are in their prime, and remain so until
+frost comes. But this defect can easily be remedied by growing some tall
+plant at the base of the vines to hide their nakedness.</p>
+
+<p>Another most excellent vine is the good old Morning Glory, with its
+blue, purple, violet, pink, carmine, and white flowers produced in such
+profusion that they literally cover its upper branches during the early
+part of the day. This is a very satisfactory vine to train about door
+and window. Do not give it ordinary twine as a support, as the weight of
+the vines, when well developed, is almost sure to break it down. Stout
+cord, such as is used in binding grain, is the best thing I know of, as
+it is rather rough, thus enabling the vine to take hold of it with good
+effect. This is a rapid grower, and a wonderfully free bloomer, and it
+will give you flowers throughout the season. It is much showier than the
+Wild Cucumber, but its foliage lacks the delicacy which characterizes
+that plant.</p>
+
+<p>Another good vine for covering porches, verandas, and summer-houses, is
+the Japan Hop. This plant&mdash;it is an annual, like the other two of which
+mention has been made&mdash;has foliage of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> a rich, dark green, broadly and
+irregularly blotched and marbled with creamy white and pale yellow. It
+grows rapidly, and gives a dense shade.</p>
+
+<p>"I would like a sort of hedge, or screen, between the flower and the
+vegetable garden. What plants would you advise for this purpose?"</p>
+
+<p>The Zinnia is an excellent plant where a low hedge is desired. It
+averages a height of three feet. It is compact and symmetrical in habit,
+branching quite close to the ground. It is a rapid grower, and of the
+very easiest culture. It comes into bloom in July, and continues to
+produce great quantities of flowers, shaped like miniature Dahlias, in
+red, scarlet, pink, yellow, orange, and white, until frost comes. It
+makes a most gorgeous show.</p>
+
+<p>Kochia, more commonly known as "Burning Bush" or "Mexican Fire-Plant,"
+is a charming thing all through the season. In summer it is a pleasing
+green. In fall it turns to a brilliant red, hence its popular names, as
+given above. Its habit is very compact, and one of great symmetry. If
+the plants are set about a foot apart, and in two rows,&mdash;these rows a
+foot apart,&mdash;you will have a low hedge that will be as smooth as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> one of
+Arbor Vit&aelig; after the gardener has given it its annual shearing. When the
+bush takes on its autumnal coloring it is as showy as a plant can well
+be, and is always sure of attracting attention, and being greatly
+admired.</p>
+
+<p>Amaranthus is another very pleasing plant for hedge purposes. It grows
+to a height of about four feet. Some varieties have a dark, bronze-green
+foliage, others foliage of a dull, rich Indian-red, while some are
+yellow-green&mdash;quite rare among plants of this class. The flowers, which
+are small, individually, are thickly set along pendant stems, and give
+the effect of ropes of chenille. In color they are a dull red, not at
+all showy in the sense of brilliance, but really charming when seen
+dropping in great profusion against the richly colored foliage. Our
+grandmothers grew the original varieties of this plant under the name of
+"Prince's Plume," "Prince's Feather," or "Love Lies Bleeding." But since
+the florists have taken it in hand, and greatly improved it, it no
+longer retains the good old names which always meant something. To
+secure the best results with this plant, when grown as a hedge or
+screen, set it in rows about a foot apart, each way, and use some of the
+dwarf sorts for the front row. Or a flowering plant of contrasting
+color&mdash;like the Nasturtium, or the double yellow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> Marigold, or the
+velvety African variety, with flowers of a dark maroon shading to
+blackish-brown&mdash;can be grown at its base, with fine effect.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img180" id="img180"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p180.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="THE ODDS AND ENDS CORNER" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE ODDS AND ENDS CORNER</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Sweet Peas make a good screen if given proper support, and planted
+thickly.</p>
+
+<p>"I would like a large group or bed of ornamental foliaged plants on the
+lawn, but have grown rather tired of Cannas and Caladiums. What would
+you suggest? I don't want anything hard to grow."</p>
+
+<p>If very large plants are wanted, I would advise, as best of all,
+Ricinus, better known, perhaps, as Castor Bean, or Castor Plant. This is
+an annual of wonderfully vigorous growth. It often reaches a height of
+ten feet, in good soil, with a corresponding spread of branches. Its
+leaves are often a yard across, of a dark coppery bronze, with a
+purplish metallic lustre that makes the plant very striking. The best
+effect is secured by growing four or five plants in a group. None of the
+tropical plants that have come into prominence in gardening, during the
+past ten or twelve years, are nearly as effective as this easily-grown
+annual, whose seeds sell at five cents a package. For a very prominent
+location on the lawn or anywhere about the home-grounds no better plant
+could be selected.</p>
+
+<p>The Amaranthus advised for hedge use makes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> a very showy circular bed on
+the lawn when grown in large masses, in the centre, surrounded with
+flowering plants of a strongly contrasting but harmonious color. The
+Calliopsis, rich golden-yellow marked with brown, combines charmingly
+with the dull, deep, rich reds which characterize the foliage and
+flowers of the most desirable varieties of this too much neglected
+annual. There are new varieties advertised of rather dwarf habit, with
+golden-green foliage, that could be used about the red-leaved kinds with
+fine effect.</p>
+
+<p>"I would like a bed of very brilliant flowers for the front yard. Can't
+have many, for I haven't time to take care of them, so want those which
+will give the most show for the least trouble. Would like something so
+bright that it will <i>compel</i> people to stop and look at it. What shall I
+get?"</p>
+
+<p>An exceedingly brilliant combination can be made by the use of scarlet
+Salvia, as the centre of a bed six or eight feet across, with Calliopsis
+surrounding it. The scarlet and yellow of these two flowers will make
+the place fairly blaze with color, and they will continue to bloom until
+frost comes. They require next to no care.</p>
+
+<p>The annual Phlox makes a fine show if proper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> care is taken in the
+arrangement of the various colors with a view to contrast. The pale rose
+variety combines beautifully with the pure whites and pale yellows. A
+bed of these three colors alone will be found much more satisfactory
+than one in which a larger number of colors are used. Set each color in
+a row by itself. Such a bed will "compel" persons to stop and admire it,
+but they will do it for the sake of its beauty rather than its great
+brilliance.</p>
+
+<p>Petunias are excellent plants for large beds where a strong show of
+color is desired. They bloom early, continue through the season, and
+require very little care.</p>
+
+<p>The Shirley Poppy makes a brave show about the last of July, but after
+that it soon dies. If it were an all-season bloomer it would be one of
+our most popular plants for producing a brilliant effect. I would advise
+using it, and filling the bed in which it grew with other plants, after
+its flowering period was over. Its rich colors and satiny texture make
+it a plant that always attracts attention.</p>
+
+<p>Scarlet Geraniums are used a great deal where a strong color-show is
+desired, but they are not as satisfactory as many other plants because
+of their ragged look, after a little, unless constantly given<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> care. The
+first flowers in truss will fade, and their discolored petals will spoil
+the effect of the flowers that come after them if they are allowed to
+remain. It is not much of a task to go over the plants and pull out
+these faded flowers every, day, but we are not likely to do this. I
+prefer single Geraniums to double ones for garden use, because they drop
+their old petals, and never take on the ragged appearance which
+characterizes the ordinary bedding Geranium.</p>
+
+<p>"I would like a low bed&mdash;that is, a bed near the path where it will be
+looked down upon. Tall plants would be out of place there. Tell me of a
+few of the best kinds for such a location."</p>
+
+<p>The Portulacca is well adapted to such use, as it never grows to be more
+than three or four inches in height, but spreads in a manner to make it
+look like a green carpet, upon which it displays its flowers of red,
+rose, scarlet, yellow and white with very vivid effect. This plant might
+well be called a vegetable salamander, as it flourishes in dry, hot
+locations where other plants would utterly fail. It fairly revels in the
+hot sunshine of midsummer.</p>
+
+<p>The good old Verbena is another very desirable plant for a low bed. It
+is of spreading habit, blooms profusely and constantly, and comes in a
+wide range of beautiful colors.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Ageratum is a lovely plant for a low bed, with its great masses of
+soft lavender flowers. Fine effects are secured by using dark yellow
+Coleus or golden Pansies as an edging, these colors contrasting
+exquisitely with the dainty lavender-blue of the Ageratum.</p>
+
+<p>"What flowers shall we grow to cut from? Would like something that is
+not coarse, and something that will bloom for a long time, and has long
+stems."</p>
+
+<p>At the head of the list I would place the Sweet Pea. This is a favorite,
+everywhere, for cutting. The most useful varieties are the delicate rose
+and white ones, the pure whites, the pale pinks, the dainty lavenders,
+and the soft primrose yellows.</p>
+
+<p>The Nasturtium is an old favorite for cutting, and a corner of every
+garden ought to be given up to a few plants of it for the special
+purpose of furnishing cut flowers.</p>
+
+<p>The Aster is a magnificent flower,&mdash;it seems to be growing better and
+better each year, if such a thing is possible,&mdash;and nothing else among
+the annuals compares with it in lasting quality, when cut. If the water
+in which it is placed is changed daily, it will last for two weeks, and
+seem as fresh at the end of that time as when first cut. The most useful
+variety for cutting is the "Branch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>ing Aster," with stems a foot or more
+in length. This makes the flowers of this class particularly useful for
+vases. I would advise growing three colors, when it is wanted solely for
+cutting&mdash;white, pale rose, and delicate lavender.</p>
+
+<p>The newer varieties of Dahlia&mdash;especially the "decorative" section&mdash;are
+superb for cutting. Their flowers are not formal like those of the old
+double kinds, and being borne on long stalks, they can be arranged very
+gracefully. Like the Aster, they last well. They will be found among the
+most useful of our late flowers for large vases, and where striking and
+brilliant effects of color are desired.</p>
+
+<p>The Gladiolus is also well adapted to cutting, and is very effective
+when used in tall vases, the entire stalk being taken.</p>
+
+<p>Scabiosa, often known as "Mourning Bride," is an excellent plant for
+vase-use, and deserves more attention than it has heretofore enjoyed.
+Its flowers are quite unlike most other annuals in color, and will be
+appreciated on that account. The dark purple varieties combine
+delightfully with those of a lighter tone in yellow, and with pure
+whites. As the blossoms are produced on long stems, they dispose
+themselves very gracefully when used in rather deep vases.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Every garden should have several plants of Mignonette in it, grown for
+the especial purpose of cutting from. This is one of the most fragrant
+flowers we have among the annuals.</p>
+
+<p>For small vases&mdash;little vases for the breakfast table, or the desk, and
+for gifts to friends&mdash;one ought to grow quantities of Heliotropes, Tea
+Roses, and Pansies.</p>
+
+<p>To cut from, early in spring, nothing is lovelier than the Lily of the
+Valley.</p>
+
+<p>For larger vases, the Dicentra is always pleasing, coming close after
+the Lily of the Valley. Cut it with a good deal of foliage, and be
+careful to give each stalk ample room in which to adjust itself. A vase
+with a flaring top is what this flower ought to have, as its stalks have
+just the curve that fits the flare. A straight vase obliges it to stand
+up so primly that half the charm of the flower is destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>For late fall cutting, there is no other flower quite equal to the
+Cosmos. The pink and white varieties are lovely when cut by the branch,
+and used in large vases. They seem especially adapted to church
+decoration.</p>
+
+<p>"We want some flowers that will bloom late in the season. Are there any
+that can be depended on after early frosts?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Yes. First on the list I would name the Aster. This sturdy annual is
+seldom at its best before the first frosts, and can be considered in its
+prime during the first half of October. And it will last until cold
+weather sets in.</p>
+
+<p>Ten Week Stock&mdash;the "Gillyflower" of grandmother's garden&mdash;is a late
+bloomer. The snows of November often find it full of flowers, and are
+powerless to injure it. It is delightfully fragrant, and particularly
+adapted to cutting, because of its long spikes of bloom. It comes in
+white, rosy-purple, red, and sulphur-yellow.</p>
+
+<p>The Marguerite Carnation deserves a place in every garden because of its
+great beauty, and its late-flowering habit. While not all the plants
+grown from seed will give double flowers, a large share of them will be
+so, and in form, size, and color they will compare very favorably with
+the greenhouse varieties of this favorite flower. Most of them will have
+the true Carnation fragrance. For choice little bouquets, for home use,
+or to give your especial friends nothing can be more satisfactory. You
+can expect a dozen flowers from each plant where you would get but one
+from the greenhouse sorts.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="ARBORS_SUMMER-HOUSES_PERGOLAS_AND_OTHER_GARDEN_FEATURES" id="ARBORS_SUMMER-HOUSES_PERGOLAS_AND_OTHER_GARDEN_FEATURES"></a>ARBORS, SUMMER-HOUSES, PERGOLAS, AND OTHER GARDEN FEATURES</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 156px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_f.jpg" width="156" height="160" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="F" />
+</div>
+<p>EW persons who daily pass attractive homes in the suburban districts of
+our large cities and the outlying country, realize that much of their
+charm is due to effects which require a comparatively small outlay in
+dollars and cents. Good taste, combined with a degree of skill that is
+within reach of most of us, represent the chief part of the investment.
+And yet&mdash;these little, inexpensive things are the very ones that produce
+the pleasing effects we are all striving after in our efforts to make
+home attractive. Most of them convey an impression of being made for
+use, not show. They are in a class with the broad-seated, wide-armed
+"old hickory" rockers with which we make our modern verandas comfortable
+nowadays, and the hammock swung in shady places, wherein one may lie and
+take his ease, and forget everything but the fact that it is some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>times
+a pleasant thing to be lazy&mdash;frankly, unblushingly lazy. It is a healthy
+indication in our American life when so many persons go in for getting
+all the comfort they can from outdoors in summer. Every home whose
+grounds are large enough to accommodate them ought to have benches here
+and there, made for comfort, rather than looks, garden-seats,
+summer-houses&mdash;all suggestive of rest and relaxation. In this chapter I
+propose to briefly describe a few such home-made features, hoping that
+the man or boy who has the "knack" of using tools to advantage, actuated
+by a desire to make home-environments pleasant, may be led to copy some
+of them.</p>
+
+<p>Let me say, right here, that the work demanded in the construction of
+rustic features about the home is just the kind of work I would
+encourage boys to undertake. It will be found so enjoyable that it will
+seem more like play than labor. There is the pleasure of planning
+it&mdash;the sense of responsibility and importance which comes to the lad
+who sets out to do something "all by himself," and the delightful
+consciousness that what is done may result in making home more
+home-like, and add to the comfort and pleasure of those whose love and
+companionship go to make home the best place on earth.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img191" id="img191"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p191.jpg" width="600" height="394" alt="SUMMER HOUSE" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SUMMER HOUSE</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In constructing summer-houses, bridges, and other rustic work, there
+should be a careful plan made before the work is begun. Never work "by
+guess." Go at the undertaking precisely as the mechanic sets about the
+construction of a house. Draw a diagram of what the structure is to be.
+A rough diagram will answer quite as well as any, provided it covers all
+particulars.</p>
+
+<p>Figure out just how much material the plan calls for. Get this on the
+ground before anything else is done. The material required will be poles
+of different sizes and lengths, large and substantial nails, a few
+planks for floors and benches&mdash;possibly tables&mdash;and shingles for
+covering such structures as need roofing in, unless bark is used for
+this purpose. Of course bark gives more of a "rustic" look to a roof,
+but it is not an easy matter to obtain a good quality of it, and
+shingles, stained a mossy-green or dark brown, will harmonize charmingly
+with the rest of the building, and furnish a much more substantial roof
+than it is possible to secure with even the best kind of bark.</p>
+
+<p>If possible, use cedar poles in preference to any other, for several
+reasons: First of all, they are more ornamental, because of their bark,
+which is more permanent than that of any other wood.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> They are light,
+and easy to handle, and take a nail as readily as pine. And then&mdash;their
+aromatic odor makes it a constant delight to work among them to those
+who like sweet, fresh, wild-woody smells. But all kinds of poles can be
+substituted for cedar if that is not obtainable. The kind of wood used
+in the construction of rustic work is not a matter of prime importance,
+though it may be, and is, largely a matter of taste. But when we cannot
+do as we would like to we must do the best we can.</p>
+
+<p>Provide yourself with a good saw, a hammer, a square, and a mitre-box.
+These will be all the tools you will be likely to need. Use spikes to
+fasten the larger timbers together, and smaller nails for the braces and
+ornamental work of the design. Speaking of ornamental work reminds me to
+say that the more crooked, gnarled, and twisted limbs and branches you
+can secure, the better will be the effect, as a general thing, for
+formality must be avoided as far as possible. We are not working
+according to a plan of Nature's but we are using Nature's material, and
+we must use it as it comes from Nature's hand in order to make it most
+effective.</p>
+
+<p>Take pains in making joints. If everything is cut to the proper length
+and angle, it will fit<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> together neatly, and only a neat job will be
+satisfactory.</p>
+
+<p>Let me advise the reader who concludes to try his hand at the
+construction of rustic work to confine his selection of design to
+something not very elaborate. Leave that for wealthy people who can
+afford to have whatever their taste inclines them to, without regard to
+cost, and who give the work over to the skilled workman. I am
+considering matters from the standpoint of the home-maker, who believes
+we get more real pleasure out of what we make with our own hands than
+from that which we hire some one to make for us.</p>
+
+<p>In one of the illustrations accompanying this chapter is shown a
+combination summer-house and arbor that is very easily made, and that
+will cost but little. The picture gives so clear an idea of framework
+and general detail that a description does not seem necessary. As a
+considerable weight will have to be supported by the roof, when vines
+have been trained over it, it will be necessary to use stout poles for
+uprights, and to run substantial braces from them to the cross-poles
+overhead. The built-in seats on each side add greatly to the comfort of
+the structure, and invite us to "little halts by the wayside," in which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span>
+to "talk things over," or to quiet hours with a book that would lose
+half its charm if read indoors, as a companion. The original of this
+picture is built over a path that is sometimes used as a driveway, and
+is known as "the outdoor parlor" by the family on whose grounds it
+stands. You will find some member of the family there on every pleasant
+day, throughout the entire season, for it is fitted out with hammocks
+and swinging seats, and a table large enough to serve as tea-table, on
+occasion, with a cover that lifts and discloses a snug box inside in
+which books and magazines can be left without fear of injury in case of
+shower or damp weather. Tea served in such surroundings takes on a
+flavor that it never has indoors. The general design of this
+summer-house, as will readily be seen by the illustration, is simplicity
+itself, and can very easily be copied by the amateur workman.</p>
+
+<p>It often happens that there are ravines or small depressions on the
+home-grounds over which a rustic bridge could be thrown with pleasing
+effect, from the ornamental standpoint, and prove a great convenience
+from the standpoint of practicality. If there is a brook there, all the
+better, but few of us, however, are fortunate enough to be owners of
+grounds possessing so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> charming a feature, and our bridges must be
+more ornamental in themselves than would be necessary if there was water
+to add its attraction to the spot.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img195" id="img195"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p195.jpg" width="600" height="382" alt="A PERGOLA SUGGESTION" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A PERGOLA SUGGESTION</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One of the most delightful summer-houses I have ever seen was largely
+the result of an accident. An old tree standing near a path was broken
+down in a storm, some years ago, and a portion of its trunk was made use
+of as a support for one side of the roof. On the opposite side, rustic
+arches were used. The roof was shingled, and stained a dark green, thus
+bringing it into color-harmony with its surroundings. Over the roof a
+Wistaria was trained, and this has grown to such size that but few of
+the shingles are to be seen through its branches. About this spot the
+home-life of the family centres from April to late October. "We would
+miss it more than any part of the dwelling," its owner and builder said
+to me, when I asked permission to photograph it. I could readily
+understand the regard of the family for so beautiful a place, which, I
+have no doubt, cost less than one of the great flower-beds that we see
+on the grounds of wealthy people, and see without admiring, so formal
+and artificial are they, and so suggestive of professional work
+duplicated in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> other gardens until the very monotony of them becomes an
+offence to the eye of the man or woman who believes in individuality and
+originality.</p>
+
+<p>Rustic fences between lots are great improvements on the ordinary
+boundary fence, especially if vines are trained over them. They need not
+be elaborate in design to be attractive. If made of poles from which the
+bark has been taken, they should be stained a dark green or brown to
+bring them into harmony with their surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>Screen-frames of rustic work, as a support for vines, to hide unsightly
+outbuildings, are far preferable to the usual one of wood with wire
+netting stretched over it. They will cost no more than one of lattice,
+and will be vastly more pleasing, in every respect.</p>
+
+<p>Gateways can be made exceedingly pleasing by setting posts at each side
+of the gate, and fashioning an arch to connect them, at the top. Train a
+vine, like Ampelopsis, over the upper part of the framework, and you
+make even the simplest gateway attractive.</p>
+
+<p>A garden-seat, with a canopy of vines to shade it, may not be any more
+comfortable, <i>as a seat</i>, than any wooden bench, but the touch of beauty
+and grace imparted by the vine that roofs it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> makes it far more
+enjoyable than an expensive seat without the vine would be to the person
+who has a taste for pleasing and attractive things, simply because it
+pleases the eye by its outlines, thus appealing to the sense of the
+beautiful. Beauty is cheap, when looked at from the right standpoint,
+which is never one of dollars and cents. It is just these little things
+about a place that do so much to make it home-like, as you will readily
+see if, when you find a place that pleases you, you take the trouble to
+analyze the secret of its attractiveness.</p>
+
+<p>The pergola has not been much in evidence among us until of late. A
+rapidly increasing taste for the attractive features of old-world,
+outdoor life in sunny countries where much of the time is spent outside
+the dwelling, and the introduction of the "Italian garden" idea, have
+given it a popularity in America that makes it a rival of the arbor or
+summer-house, and bids fair to make it a thing of permanence among us.</p>
+
+<p>The question is frequently asked by those who have read about pergolas,
+but have never seen one, as to wherein they differ from the ordinary
+arbor. The difference is more in location, material, and manner of
+construction than anything else. They are generally built of timber that
+can<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> be given a coating of paint, with more or less ornamental pillars
+or supports and rafters, and are constructed along definite
+architectural lines. They are, in fact, ornamental structures over which
+vines are to be trained loosely with a view to tempering the sunshine
+rather than excluding it. The framework of the arbor, as a general
+thing, is considered secondary to the effect produced by it when the
+vines we plant about it are developed. But, unlike the Americanized
+pergola, the arbor is almost always located in a retired or
+inconspicuous part of the home-grounds, and is seldom found connected
+with the dwelling. To get the benefit of the arbor, or the summer-house
+we evolve from it, we must go to it, while the pergola, as adapted by
+most of us, brings the attractive features of out-door life to the
+house, thus combining out- and in-door life more intimately than
+heretofore. One of the illustrations accompanying this chapter shows a
+very simple pergola framework&mdash;one that can be built cheaply, and by any
+man or boy who is at all "handy with tools," and can be used as a plan
+to work from by anyone who desires to attach a modification of the
+pergola proper to the dwelling, for the purpose of furnishing shade to
+portions of it not provided with verandas. It will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> require the
+exercise of but little imagination to enable one to see what a charming
+feature of the home such a structure will be when vines have been
+trained over it. There are many homes that would be wonderfully improved
+by the addition of something of this kind, with very little trouble and
+expense. It is to be hoped that many a housewife can prevail on the
+"men-folks" to interest themselves on pergola-building on a small scale,
+as indicated in the illustration, for practical as well as ornamental
+reasons. Anything that will take the occupants of the dwelling out of
+doors is to be encouraged. Especially would the women of the household
+enjoy a vine-shaded addition of this kind, during the intervals of
+leisure that come during the day, and the head of the family would find
+it an ideal place in which to smoke his evening pipe. In several
+respects it can be made much more satisfactory than a veranda. It can be
+made larger&mdash;roomier, and there will be more of an out-door atmosphere
+about it because of its airiness, and the play of light and shade
+through the vines that clamber overhead. Pergolas of elaborate design
+need not be described here, as they properly belong to homes not made
+attractive by the individual efforts of the home owner. They are better<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>
+adapted to the grounds of wealthy people, who are not obliged to
+consider expense, and who are not actively interested in the development
+of the home by themselves.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img198" id="img198"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p198.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="A SIMPLE PERGOLA FRAMEWORK" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A SIMPLE PERGOLA FRAMEWORK</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>What vines would I advise for use about arbors, summer-houses, and
+pergolas?</p>
+
+<p>The Wild Grape, though not much used, is one of our best native vines.
+It has the merit of rapid growth, entire hardiness, luxuriant foliage
+and delightful habit, and when in bloom it has a fragrance that is as
+exquisite as it is indescribable&mdash;one of those vague, elusive, and yet
+powerful odors so characteristic of spring flowers. You will smell
+it&mdash;the air will be full of it&mdash;and yet it will puzzle you to locate it.
+The wind will blow from you and it will be gone. Then a breeze will blow
+your way, and the air will suddenly be overpoweringly sweet with the
+scent shaken free from blossoms so small as to be hardly noticeable
+unless one makes a careful search for them. Then, too, the fruit is not
+only attractive to the eye in fall, but pleasant to the taste of those
+who delight in the flavor of wild things, among whom we must class the
+robins, who will linger about the vine until the last berry is gone.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 443px;"><a name="img200" id="img200"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p200.jpg" width="443" height="600" alt="GARDENER&#39;S TOOL-HOUSE" title="" />
+<span class="caption">GARDENER&#39;S TOOL-HOUSE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Another most excellent vine for covering these<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> structures is our
+native Ampelopsis, better known as American Ivy, or Virginia Creeper.
+This vine is of exceedingly rapid growth, and will accomplish more in
+one season than most other vines do in two or three years. Its foliage
+is beautiful at all times, but especially so in late autumn when it
+takes on a brilliance that makes it a rival of the flower. In fact,
+every leaf of it seems all at once to become a flower, glowing with
+scarlet and maroon of varying shades, with here and there a touch of
+bronze to afford contrast and heighten the intensity of the other
+colors. This vine is perhaps the best of all vines for use on rustic
+structures, because it takes hold of rough poles and posts with stout
+little tendrils or sucker-like discs which ask for no assistance from us
+in the way of support.</p>
+
+<p>Another most charming vine is Clematis <i>paniculata</i>. This is a variety
+of the Clematis family of comparatively recent introduction, quite
+unlike the large-flowering class. It has white flowers, small
+individually, but produced in such enormous quantities that the upper
+portions of the vine seem to be covered with foam, or a light fall of
+snow. They will entirely hide the foliage with their dainty, airy grace,
+and you will declare, when you first see the plant in full<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> bloom, that
+it is the most beautiful thing you ever saw in the way of a vine. And
+not the least of its merits is its habit of flowering at a time when
+most vines have passed into the sere-and-yellow-leaf period. September
+and October see it in its prime. Its foliage, of dark, rich, glossy
+green, furnishes a most pleasing background against which its countless
+panicles of white bloom stand out with most striking and delightful
+effect. I have no knowledge of a more floriferous vine, and I know of no
+more beautiful one. As a covering for the pergola attached to the house
+it is unrivalled.</p>
+
+<p>In the southern belt of our northern states, where the Wistaria is hardy
+enough to withstand the winter, no more satisfactory flowering vine can
+be chosen for a pergola covering. Its habit of growth and flowering
+seems perfectly in harmony with the primary idea of the pergola. It will
+furnish all the shade that is needed without shutting out the sunshine
+entirely, and its pendant clusters of lavender-blue flowers are never
+more pleasing than when seen hanging between the cross-bars of the
+pergola.</p>
+
+<p>If the person who builds a summer-house or a pergola is impatient for
+results it will be well to make use of annual vines for covering it the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>
+first season, though something of a more permanent nature should always
+be planned for. One of our best annuals, so far as rapidity of growth is
+concerned, is the Wild Cucumber, of which mention was made in the
+preceding chapter. Because of its rapid development, the usefulness of
+the plant for immediate effects will be readily understood. But it is
+valuable only as a substitute for something more substantial and should
+not be depended on after the first season. It lacks the dignity and
+strength of a permanent vine.</p>
+
+<p>The Morning Glory will be found very effective for a first-season
+covering. This vine is prodigal in its production of flowers. Every
+sunny day, throughout the season, it will be covered with blossoms, so
+many in number that they make a veritable "glory" of the forenoon hours.</p>
+
+<p>Another excellent annual is the Japan Hop. This will perhaps afford
+better satisfaction than the Wild Cucumber or the Morning Glory, because
+its foliage bears some resemblance to that of the hardy vines of which I
+have spoken. In other words, it has more substance and dignity, and
+therefore seems more in harmony with the structure over which it is
+trained. Its leaves have a variegation of creamy white on a dark green<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span>
+ground. This makes it as ornamental as if it were a flowering plant.</p>
+
+<p>Every home ought to have its "playhouse" for children. If fitted with
+screens to keep out mosquitoes, the younger members of the family,
+especially the girls, will literally "live in it" for six months of the
+year. I would suggest fitting it with canvas curtains to shut out wind
+and rain. I would also advise making it of good size, for the children
+will take delight in entertaining visitors in it, and a tiny structure
+is not convenient for the entertainment of "company." Such a building
+can be made as ornamental as any arbor or pergola at slight cost, when
+vines are used to hide the shortcomings of its material and
+construction. Be sure it will be appreciated by the little folks, and
+quite likely some of the "children of a larger growth" will dispute its
+occupancy with them, at times, if there is no other building of its kind
+about the place.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CARPET-BEDDING" id="CARPET-BEDDING"></a>CARPET-BEDDING</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 148px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_c.jpg" width="148" height="160" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="C" />
+</div>
+<p>ARPET-BEDDING is not the most artistic phase of gardening, by any
+means, but it has a great attraction for many persons who admire masses
+of harmonious and contrasting colors more than the individual beauty of
+a flower. Therefore a chapter on this subject will no doubt be gladly
+welcomed by those who have seen the striking effects secured by the use
+of plants having ornamental or richly colored foliage, in our large
+public parks, and on the grounds of the wealthy.</p>
+
+<p>Let me say, just here, that the person who attempts what, for want of a
+better name, might be called pictorial gardening, is wise if he selects
+a rather simple pattern, especially at the outset of his career in this
+phase of garden-work. Intricate and elaborate designs call for more
+skill in their successful working out than the amateur is likely to be
+master of, and they demand a larger amount of time and labor than the
+average amateur florist will be likely to expend upon them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> And the
+fact should never be lost sight of that failure to give all the care
+needed brings about most discouraging results. This being the case,
+select a design in which the effect aimed at can be secured by broad
+masses of color, depending almost wholly on color-contrast for pleasing
+results. Bear in mind that this "school" of pictorial art belongs to the
+"impressionistic" rather than the "pre-Raphaelite," about which we hear
+so much nowadays, and leave the fine work to the professional gardener,
+or wait until you feel quite sure of your ability to attempt it with a
+reasonably good show of success.</p>
+
+<p>Some persons are under the impression that flowering plants can be used
+to good effect in carpet-bedding. This is not the case, however. In
+order to bring out a pattern or design fully and clearly, it is
+absolutely necessary that we make use of plants which are capable of
+giving a solid color-effect. This we obtain from foliage, but very few
+flowering plants are prolific enough of bloom to give the desired
+result. The effect will be thin and spotty, so never depend on them.
+Quite often they can be used in combination with plants having
+ornamental foliage in such a manner as to secure pleasing results, but
+they always play a secondary part in this phase of gardening.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The best plants to use in carpet-bedding are the following:</p>
+
+<p>Coleus, in various shades of red, maroon, and scarlet, light and dark
+yellow, green and white, and varieties in which colors and shades of
+color are picturesquely blended.</p>
+
+<p>Achyranthes, low-growing plants in mixtures of red, pink, yellow and
+green.</p>
+
+<p>Alternatheras, similar to Achyranthes in habit, but with red as a
+predominating color. Both are excellent for working out the finer
+details of a design.</p>
+
+<p>Pyrethrum&mdash;"Golden Feather"&mdash;with feathery foliage of a tawny yellow.</p>
+
+<p>Centaurea <i>gymnocarpa</i>,&mdash;"Dusty Miller,"&mdash;with finely-cut foliage of a
+cool gray.</p>
+
+<p>Geranium Madame Salleroi&mdash;with pale green and white foliage. This is a
+most excellent plant for use in carpet-bedding because of its close,
+compact habit of growth, and its very symmetrical shape which is
+retained throughout the entire season without shearing or pruning.</p>
+
+<p>It must be borne in mind by the amateur florist that success in
+carpet-bedding depends nearly as much on the care given as on the
+material used. In order to bring out a design sharply, it is necessary
+to go over the bed at least twice a week and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> cut away all branches that
+show a tendency to straggle across the boundary line of the various
+colors. Run your pruning shears along this line and ruthlessly cut away
+everything that is not where it belongs. If this is not done, your
+"pattern" will soon become blurred and indistinct. If any intermingling
+of colors "from across the line" is allowed, all sharpness of outline
+will be destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>The plants must be clipped frequently to keep them dwarf and compact.
+Make it a point to keep the larger-growing kinds, such as Coleus,
+Pyrethrum and Centaurea, under six inches in height rather than over it.
+Alternatheras and Achyranthes will need very little shearing, as to top,
+because of their habit of low growth.</p>
+
+<p>In setting these plants in the bed, be governed by the habit of each
+plant. Achyranthes and Alternatheras, being the smallest, should be put
+about four inches apart. Give the Coleus about six inches of lee-way,
+also the Centaurea. Allow eight inches for Madame Salleroi Geranium and
+Pyrethrum. These will soon meet in the row and form a solid line or mass
+of foliage.</p>
+
+<p>So many persons have asked for designs for carpet-bedding, that I will
+accompany this chapter with several original with myself which have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span>
+proved very satisfactory. Some of them may seem rather complicated, but
+when one gets down to the business of laying them out, the seeming
+complications will vanish.</p>
+
+<p>In laying out all but the star-shaped and circular beds, it is well to
+depend upon a square as the basis to work from. Decide on the size of
+bed you propose to have, and then stake out a square as shown by the
+dotted lines in design No. 1, and work inside this square in filling in
+the details. If this is done, the work will not be a difficult one.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="img209" id="img209"></a>
+<img src="images/drawing_1_p209.jpg" width="400" height="395" alt="No. 1." title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 1.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Design No. 1 will be found easy to make and admits of many pleasing
+combinations and modifications. Each gardener who sees fit to adopt any
+of these designs should study out a color-scheme of his own. Knowing the
+colors of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> material he has to work with it will not be difficult to
+arrange these colors to suit individual taste. I think this will be more
+satisfactory than to give any arbitrary arrangement of colors, for half
+the pleasure of gardening consists in originating things of this kind,
+rather than copying what some one else has originated, or of following
+instructions given by others. This does not apply so much to designs for
+beds as it does to the colors we make use of in them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="img210" id="img210"></a>
+<img src="images/drawing_2_p210.jpg" width="500" height="397" alt="No. 2." title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 2.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the designs accompanying this chapter it will be seen that simple
+plans are made capable of producing more elaborate effects by making use
+of the dotted lines. Indeed, one can make these designs quite intricate
+by dividing the dif<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span>ferent spaces as outlined in No. 2. A plain centre
+with a plain point, as shown in <i>a</i>, shows the bed in its very simplest
+form. In <i>g</i>, <i>c</i>, and <i>d</i>, we see these points with three different
+arrangements suggested, and the dotted line in the central portion
+indicates a change that can be made there that will add considerably to
+the effectiveness of the design. A little study of other designs will, I
+think, make them so plain that they can be worked out with but little
+trouble.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 394px;"><a name="img211" id="img211"></a>
+<img src="images/drawing_3_p211.jpg" width="394" height="400" alt="No. 3." title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 3.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>I would suggest that before deciding on any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> color-combinations, a rough
+diagram be made of whatever bed you select and that this be colored to
+correspond with the material you have to work with. Seeing these colors
+side by side on paper will give you a better idea of the general effect
+that will result from any of your proposed combinations than you can get
+in any other way, and to test them in this manner may prevent you from
+making some serious mistakes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="img212" id="img212"></a>
+<img src="images/drawing_4_p212.jpg" width="400" height="389" alt="No. 4." title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 4.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It will be necessary to go over the beds every day or two and remove all
+dead or dying leaves. Neatness is an item of the greatest importance in
+this phase of gardening, or any other, for that matter.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="img213" id="img213"></a>
+<img src="images/drawing_5_p213.jpg" width="400" height="390" alt="No.5." title="" />
+<span class="caption">No.5.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Large plants can be used in the centre of any of these designs, if one
+cares to do so, with very good effect. For this purpose we have few
+plants that will give greater satisfaction than the Dahlia. Scarlet
+Salvia would be very effective if yellow Coleus were used about it, but
+it would not please if surrounded with red Coleus, as the red of the
+plant and the red of the flower would not harmonize. A Canna of rich,
+dark green would make a fine centre plant for a bed in which red Coleus
+served as a background. One of the dark copper-colored varieties would
+show to fine effect if surrounded with either yellow Pyrethrum or gray
+Centaurea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="img214" id="img214"></a>
+<img src="images/drawing_6_p214.jpg" width="400" height="382" alt="No. 6." title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 6.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Ageratum, with its delicate lavender-blue flowers, can be made extremely
+attractive in combination with yellow Coleus. A pink Geranium surrounded
+with gray Centaurea would be delightful in the harmony that would result
+from a combination of these colors.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="img215" id="img215"></a>
+<img src="images/drawing_7_p214.jpg" width="400" height="389" alt="No. 7." title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 7.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Nos. 7 and 8 illustrate the simplest possible form of bed. No. 7 is
+designed for plants to be set in rows. In a bed of this kind flowering<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>
+plants can be used more effectively than in any of the others. Pink,
+white, and pale yellow Phlox would be very pretty in such a combination.
+No. 8 would be quite effective if each of the five sections were of a
+different color of Coleus. Or the whole star might be of a solid color,
+with a border of contrasting color. Red Coleus with Madame Salleroi
+Geranium as a border would look well. So would yellow Coleus edged with
+Centaurea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="img216" id="img216"></a>
+<img src="images/drawing_8_p214.jpg" width="400" height="398" alt="No. 8." title="" />
+<span class="caption">No. 8.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="FLOWERING_AND_FOLIAGE_PLANTS_FOR_EDGING_BEDS_AND_WALKS" id="FLOWERING_AND_FOLIAGE_PLANTS_FOR_EDGING_BEDS_AND_WALKS"></a>FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR EDGING BEDS AND WALKS</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_w.jpg" width="160" height="134" style="margin-top: -1.5em;" alt="" title="W" />
+</div>
+<p>E do not lay as much stress on edging beds and walks with flowering
+plants as formerly, but the practice is a most pleasing one, and ought
+not to be neglected. It is one of the phases of gardening that has been
+allowed to fall into disuse, to a considerable extent, but there are
+already signs that show it is coming back to its old popularity, along
+with the old-fashioned flowers that are now more in favor than ever
+before. This is as it should be.</p>
+
+<p>A bed without a pretty border or edging always seems incomplete to me.
+It is as if the owner of it ran short of material before it was
+finished. The bit of lace or ribbon that is to add the last touch of
+grace and beauty to the gown is lacking.</p>
+
+<p>Especially is a border of flowering plants satisfactory if kinds are
+selected which bloom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> throughout the greater part of the season. The
+plants we make use of in the centre of the bed are not always attractive
+before they come into bloom, neither are they that after they have
+passed their prime, but a pretty edging of flowers draws attention from
+their shortcomings, and always pleases.</p>
+
+<p>One of our best flowering plants for edging purposes is Candytuft. It
+comes into bloom early in the season, and blooms in great profusion
+until the coming of frost. Keep it from developing seed and it will
+literally cover itself with bloom. I would advise going over it twice a
+week and clipping off every cluster of faded blossoms. This answers two
+purposes&mdash;that of preventing the formation of seed, and of removing what
+would be a disfigurement to the plant if it were allowed to remain.</p>
+
+<p>There are two varieties of Candytuft in cultivation&mdash;one white, the
+other a dull red. The white variety is the one most persons will select,
+as it harmonizes with all other plants. But the red sort is very
+pleasing when used with harmonious colors. I last year saw a bed of
+Nasturtium bordered with it, and the effect was delightful. Its dull
+color blended well with the richer, stronger tones of the Nasturtium
+flowers,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> and gave them an emphasis that was suggestive of the effect of
+dull, rich colors used in old rugs in heightening and bringing out, by
+contrast, the brighter colors.</p>
+
+<p>In using Candytuft for edging, set the plants about a foot apart. I
+would advise two rows of them, placing the plants in such a manner that
+they alternate in the rows. Do not attempt to train them. Let them do
+that for themselves. One of their most attractive features is their lack
+of formality when allowed to grow to suit themselves. Very pleasing
+results are secured by using the white and red varieties together, the
+colors alternating. If the centre of the bed is filled with "Golden
+Feather" Pyrethrum and these two Candytufts are used as an edging, the
+effect will be very fine as the dull red admirably supplements the
+greenish-yellow color of the Pyrethrum, while the white relieves what,
+without it, would be too sombre a color-scheme.</p>
+
+<p>Sweet Alyssum is excellent for edging purposes. Its general effect is
+quite similar to that of the white Candytuft, but it has greater
+delicacy of both bloom and foliage, and the additional merit of a
+delightful fragrance.</p>
+
+<p>Ageratum is lovely for edging beds of pink Geraniums, its soft lavender
+tones being in perfect harmony with their color. It is equally
+satis<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>factory when used with pale rose Phlox Drummondi, or the soft
+yellow shades of that flower. Combine the three colors in a bed and you
+will have something unusually dainty and delightful. One of the
+prettiest beds I saw last summer was filled with Sweet Alyssum, and
+edged with Ageratum. If there was any unfavorable criticism to be made,
+it was that a touch of some brighter, stronger color was needed to
+relieve its white and lavender. A free-flowering rose-colored Geranium
+in its centre, or a pink Verbena, would have added much to the general
+effect, I fancy. As it was, it was suggestive of old blue-and-white
+Delft, and the collector of that ware would have gone into raptures over
+it.</p>
+
+<p>For a permanent edging, for beds, paths, and the border, Bellis
+<i>perennis</i>, whose popular name is English Daisy, is one of the best of
+all plants. It is entirely hardy. It blooms early in the season. It is
+wonderfully generous in its production of flowers. These are small, and
+very double, some pink, some almost white, produced on short stems which
+keep them close to the ground and prevent them from straggling. Its
+thick, bright green foliage furnishes a charming background against
+which the blossoms display themselves effectively. It is a plant that
+does well everywhere, and is always on good terms<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> with everything else
+in the garden, as will be seen by the illustration that shows it in full
+bloom, along with Pansies and Hyacinths. Because of its compact,
+non-straggling habit it is especially useful for bordering paths and the
+border, permitting the use of the lawn-mower or the rake with perfect
+freedom. Plants should be set about eight inches apart. If you have but
+few plants of it and desire more, pull the old plants apart in spring
+and make a new one out of each bit that comes away with a piece of root
+attached. By fall the young plants will have grown together and formed a
+solid mass of foliage, with a great many "crowns" from which flowers
+will be produced the following season. Florists can generally furnish
+seedling plants in spring, from which immediate effects can be secured
+by close planting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img220" id="img220"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p220.jpg" width="600" height="447" alt="A BORDER OF CREEPING PHLOX" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A BORDER OF CREEPING PHLOX</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One of the best&mdash;if not <i>the</i> best&mdash;plants for all-around use in edging
+is Madame Salleroi Geranium. It is quite unlike any other Geranium of
+which I have any knowledge, in general habit. It forms a bushy, compact
+plant, and bears a solid mass of foliage. No attention whatever is
+required in the way of pruning. The plant trains itself. The ordinary
+flowering Geranium must be pinched back, and pruned constantly to
+prevent it from becoming "leggy," but there is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> no trouble of this
+kind with Madame Salleroi. Its branches, of which there will often be
+fifty or more from a plant, are all sent up from the crown of the plant,
+and seldom grow to be more than five or six inches in length. Each
+branch may have a score of leaves, borne on stems about four inches
+long. These leaves are smaller than those of any other Geranium. Their
+ground color is a pale green, and every leaf is bordered with creamy
+white. This combination of color makes the plant as attractive as a
+flowering one. It is a favorite plant for house-culture in winter, and
+those who have a specimen that has been carried over can pull it apart
+in May and plant each bit of cutting in the ground where it is to grow
+during summer, feeling sure that not one slip out of twenty will fail to
+grow if its base is inserted about an inch deep in soil which should be
+pinched firmly about it to hold it in place while roots are forming. Set
+the cuttings about ten inches apart. By midsummer the young plants will
+touch each other, and from that time on to the coming of frost your
+border will be a thing of beauty, and one of the delightful things about
+it will be&mdash;it will require no attention whatever from you. Never a
+branch will have to be shortened to keep it within bounds. No support
+will be needed. The plants will take care of themselves. I have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> never
+had a plant that is easier to grow. It harmonizes with everything. Seen
+against the green of the lawn it is charming. All things considered, it
+is an ideal plant for edging. In combination with scarlet and yellow
+Coleus it is exceedingly effective, because of its strong
+color-contrast.</p>
+
+<p>Most amateur gardeners are familiar with the various merits of Coleus,
+Alternatheras, Achyranthes, "Golden Feather" Pyrethrum, and Centaurea
+<i>maritima</i>, better known as "Dusty Miller" because of its gray foliage.
+These are all good, when properly cared for, when used for edging beds
+and borders. Especially so when used with Cannas, Caladiums, and other
+plants of striking foliage, where their rich colors take the place of
+flowers.</p>
+
+<p>Phlox <i>decussata</i>, commonly known as "Moss Pink" because of its fine
+foliage and bright pink flowers, is a most excellent plant for the hardy
+border, because it stands our winters quite as well as the hardiest
+perennials. Early in spring it will cover itself with charming blossoms
+that are as cheerful to look at as the song of the robin or the blue
+bird is to hear. It is a lovable little thing, and has but one rival
+among early-flowering plants for edging, and that rival is the English
+Daisy.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PLANNING_THE_GARDEN" id="PLANNING_THE_GARDEN"></a>PLANNING THE GARDEN</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_t.jpg" width="160" height="155" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="T" />
+</div>
+<p>HE flower garden not being one of the necessities of life, in the usual
+sense of the term, people are likely to consider the making of it of so
+little importance that it is hardly worth while to give the matter much
+consideration. Consequently they simply dig up a bed here and there, sow
+whatever seed they happen to have, and call the thing done.</p>
+
+<p>A haphazard garden of that sort is never satisfactory. In order to make
+even the smallest garden what it ought to be it should be carefully
+planned, and every detail of it well thought out before the opening of
+the season.</p>
+
+<p>To insure thoroughness in this part of the work I would advise the
+garden-maker to make a diagram of it as he thinks he would like to have
+it. Sketch it out, no matter how roughly. When you have a map of it on
+paper you will be able to get a much clearer idea of it than you can
+obtain from any merely mental plan.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After locating your beds, decide what kind of flower you will have in
+each one. But before you locate your plants study your catalogue
+carefully, and make yourself familiar with the heights and habits of
+them. Quite likely this will lead to a revision of your mental diagram,
+for you may find that you have proposed to put low-growing kinds in the
+rear of tall-growing sorts, and tall-growing kinds where they would
+seriously interfere with the general effect.</p>
+
+<p>Bear in mind that there is always a proper place for each plant you make
+use of&mdash;if you can find it. The making of a working diagram and the
+study of the leading characteristics of the plants you propose to use
+will help you to avoid mistakes that might seriously interfere with the
+effectiveness of your garden.</p>
+
+<p>Do not attempt more than you are sure of your ability to carry through
+well. Many persons allow the enthusiasm of the spring season to get the
+better of their judgment, and lead them into undertaking to do so much
+that after a little the magnitude of the work discourages them, and, as
+a natural result, the garden suffers seriously, and often proves a sad
+failure. Bear in mind that a few really good plants will give a
+hundredfold more pleasure than a great many mediocre<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> ones. Therefore
+concentrate your work, and aim at quality rather than quantity. Never
+set out to have so large a garden that the amount of labor you have to
+expend on it will be likely to prove a burden rather than a pleasurable
+recreation.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="img224" id="img224"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p224a.jpg" width="400" height="267" alt="IN SUMMER" title="" />
+<span class="caption">IN SUMMER</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="img224b" id="img224b"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p224b.jpg" width="400" height="276" alt="IN WINTER" title="" />
+<span class="caption">IN WINTER</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Do not attempt anything elaborate in a small garden. Leave fancy beds
+and striking designs to those who have a sufficient amount of room at
+their disposal to make them effective.</p>
+
+<p>I would advise keeping each kind of plant by itself, as far as possible.
+Beds in which all colors are mixed promiscuously are seldom pleasing
+because there are sure to be colors there that are out of harmony with
+others, and without color-harmony a garden of most expensive plants must
+prove a failure to the person of good taste.</p>
+
+<p>I would not, therefore, advise the purchase of "mixed" seed, in which
+most persons invest, because it is cheaper than that in which each color
+is by itself. This may cost more, but it is well worth the additional
+expense. Take Phlox Drummondi as an illustration of the idea governing
+this advice: If mixed seed is used, you will have red, pink, mauve,
+scarlet, crimson, violet, and lilac in the same bed,&mdash;a jumble of colors
+which can never be made to harmonize<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> and the effect of which will be
+very unpleasant. On the other hand, by planning your bed in advance of
+making it, with color-harmony in mind, you can so select and arrange
+your colors that they will not only harmonize, but afford a contrast
+that will heighten the general effect greatly. For instance, you can use
+rose-color, white and pale yellow varieties together, or scarlet and
+white, or carmine and pale yellow, and these combinations will be in
+excellent harmony, and give entire satisfaction. The mauves, lilacs, and
+violets, to be satisfactory, should only be used in combination with
+white varieties. I am speaking of the Phlox, but the rule which applies
+to this plant applies with equal force to all plants in which similar
+colors are to be found.</p>
+
+<p>If there are unsightly places anywhere about the grounds aim to hide
+them under a growth of pretty vines. An old fence can be made into a
+thing of beauty when covered with Morning Glories or Nasturtiums. By the
+use of a trellis covered with Sweet Peas, or a hedge of Zinnia, or of
+Cosmos, we can shut off the view of objectionable features which may
+exist in connection with the garden. Outhouses can be completely hidden
+in midsummer by planting groups of Ricinus about them, and filling in
+with Hollyhocks, and Delphinium, and Golden Glow, and other<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>
+tall-growing plants. In planning your garden, study how to bring about
+these desirable results.</p>
+
+<p>Keep in mind the fact that if you go about garden-making in a haphazard
+way, and happen to get plants where they do not belong, as you are quite
+likely to do unless you know them well, you have made a mistake which
+cannot be rectified until another season. This being the case, guard
+against such mistakes by making sure that you know just what plant to
+use to produce the effect you have in mind.</p>
+
+<p>Plan to have a selection of plants that will give flowers throughout the
+entire season. The majority of annuals bloom most profusely in June and
+July, but the prevention of seed-development will force them into bloom
+during the later months.</p>
+
+<p>Plan to have a few plants in reserve, to take the places of those which
+may fail. Something is liable to happen to a plant, at any time, and
+unless you have material at hand with which to make good the loss, there
+will be a bare spot in your beds that will be an eye-sore all the rest
+of the season.</p>
+
+<p>Plan to have the lowest growers near the path, or under the sitting-room
+windows where you can look down upon them.</p>
+
+<p>Plan to have a back-yard garden in which to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> give the plants not needed
+in the main garden a place. There will always be seedlings to thin out,
+and these ought not to be thrown away. If planted in some out-of-the-way
+place they will furnish you with plenty of material for cutting, and
+this will leave the plants in the main garden undisturbed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_BACK-YARD_GARDEN" id="THE_BACK-YARD_GARDEN"></a>THE BACK-YARD GARDEN</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_a.jpg" width="160" height="147" style="margin-top: -1.5em;" alt="" title="A" />
+</div>
+<p> GREAT deal is written about the flower-garden that fronts the street,
+or is so located that it will attract the passer-by, but it is seldom
+that we see any mention made of the garden in the back-yard. One would
+naturally get the idea that the only garden worth having is the one that
+will attract the attention of the stranger, or the casual visitor.</p>
+
+<p>I believe in a flower-garden that will give more pleasure to the home
+and its inmates than to anyone else, and where can such a garden be
+located with better promise of pleasurable results than by the kitchen
+door, where the busy housewife can blend the brightness of it with her
+daily work, and breathe in the sweetness of it while about her indoor
+tasks? It doesn't matter if its existence is unknown to the stranger
+within the gates, or that the passer-by does not get a glimpse of it. It
+works out its mission and ministry of cheer and brightness and beauty in
+a way that makes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> it the one garden most worth having. Ask the busy
+woman who catches fleeting glimpses of the beauty in it as she goes
+about her work, and she will tell you that it is an inspiration to her,
+and that the sight of it rests her when most weary, and that its
+nearness makes it a companion that seems to enter into all her moods.</p>
+
+<p>Last year I came across such a garden, and it pleased me so much that I
+have often looked back to it with a delightful memory of its homeliness,
+its utter lack of formality, and wished that it were possible for me to
+let others see it as I saw it, for, were they to do so, I feel quite
+sure every home would have one like it.</p>
+
+<p>"I never take any pains with it," the woman of the home said to me, half
+apologetically. "That is, I don't try to make it like other folks'
+gardens. I don't believe I'd enjoy it so much if I were to. You see, it
+hasn't anything of the company air about it. It's more like the neighbor
+that 'just drops in' to sit a little while, and chat about neighborhood
+happenings that we don't dare to speak about when some one comes to make
+a formal call. I love flowers so much that it seemed as if I must have a
+few where I could see them, while I was busy in the kitchen. You know, a
+woman who does her own housework<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> can't stop every time she'd like to to
+run out to the front-yard garden. So I began to plant hardy things here,
+and I've kept on ever since, till I've quite a collection, as you see.
+Just odds and ends of the plants that seem most like folks, you know. It
+doesn't amount to much as a garden, I suppose most folks would think,
+but you've no idea of the pleasure I get out of it. Sometimes when I get
+all fagged out over housework I go out and pull weeds in it, and hoe a
+little, and train up the vines, and the first I know I'm ready to go
+back to work, with the tired feeling all gone. And do you know&mdash;the
+plants seem to enjoy it as much as I do? They seem to grow better here
+than I could ever coax them to do in the front yard. But that's probably
+because they get the slops from the kitchen, and the soap-suds, every
+wash-day. It doesn't seem as if I worked among them at all. It's just
+play. The fresh air of outdoors does me more good, I'm sure, than all
+the doctors' tonics. And I'm not the only one in the family that enjoys
+them. The children take a good deal of pride in 'mother's garden,' and
+my husband took time, one day, in the busiest part of the season, to put
+up that frame by the door, to train Morning Glories over."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In this ideal home-garden were old-fashioned Madonna Lilies, such as I
+had not seen for years, and Bouncing Bets, ragged and saucy as ever, and
+Southernwood, that gave off spicy odors every time one touched it, and
+Aquilegias in blue and white and red, Life Everlasting, and Moss Pink,
+and that most delicious of all old-fashioned garden flowers, the Spice
+Pink, with its fringed petals marked with maroon, as if some wayside
+artist had touched each one with a brush dipped in that color for the
+simple mischief of the thing, and Hollyhocks, Rockets&mdash;almost all the
+old "stand-bys." There was not one "new" flower there. If it had been,
+it would have seemed out of place. The Morning Glories were just getting
+well under way, and were only half-way up the door-frame, but I could
+see, with my mind's eye, what a beautiful awning they would make a
+little later. I could imagine them peering into the kitchen, like saucy,
+fun-loving children, and laughing good-morning to the woman who "loved
+flowers so well she couldn't get along without a few."</p>
+
+<p>You see, she was successful with them because she loved them. Because of
+that, the labor she bestowed upon them was play, not work. They were
+friends of hers, and friendship never be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span>grudges anything that gives
+proof of its existence in a practical way. And the flowers, grateful for
+the friendship which manifested itself in so many helpful ways, repaid
+her generously in beauty and brightness and cheer by making themselves a
+part of her daily life.</p>
+
+<p>By all means, have a back-yard garden.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_WILD_GARDEN" id="THE_WILD_GARDEN"></a>THE WILD GARDEN</h2>
+
+<h3>A PLEA FOR OUR NATIVE PLANTS</h3>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_m.jpg" width="160" height="141" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="M" />
+</div>
+<p>ANY persons, I find, are under the impression that we have few, if any,
+native flowering plants and shrubs that are worthy a place in the
+home-garden. They have been accustomed to consider them as "wild
+things," and "weeds," forgetting or overlooking the fact that all plants
+are wild things and weeds somewhere. So unfamiliar are they with many of
+our commonest plants that they fail to recognize them when they meet
+them outside their native haunts. Some years ago I transplanted a
+Solidago,&mdash;better known as a "Golden Rod,"&mdash;from a fence-corner of the
+pasture, and gave it a place in the home-garden. There it grew
+luxuriantly, and soon became a great plant that sent up scores of stalks
+each season as high as a man's head, every one of them crowned with a
+plume of brilliant yellow flowers. The effect was simply magnificent.</p>
+
+<p>One day an old neighbor came along, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> stopped to chat with me as I
+worked among my plants.</p>
+
+<p>"That's a beauty," he said as he leaned across the fence near the Golden
+Rod. "I don't know's I ever saw anything like it before. I reckon, now,
+you paid a good deal of money for that plant."</p>
+
+<p>"How much do you think it cost me?" I asked.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, I don't know," he answered, looking at the plant admiringly, and
+then at some of foreign origin, near-by. He knew something about the
+value of these, as he had one of them growing in his garden. He seemed
+to be making a mental calculation, based on the relative beauty of the
+plants, and presently he said:</p>
+
+<p>"I ain't much of a judge of such things, but I wouldn't wonder if you
+paid as much as three&mdash;mebby four&mdash;an' like's not five dollars for it."</p>
+
+<p>"The plant cost me nothing but the labor of bringing it from the
+pasture," I answered. "Don't you know what it is? There's any quantity
+of it back of your barn, I notice."</p>
+
+<p>"You don't mean to say that's yaller-weed," exclaimed the old gentleman,
+with a disgusted look on his face. "I wouldn't have it in <i>my</i> yard.
+We've got weeds enough 'thout settin' 'em out".<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> He went away with a
+look on his face that made me think he felt as if he had been imposed
+on.</p>
+
+<p>While it is true, in many instances, that "familiarity breeds contempt,"
+it is equally true that familiarity without prejudice would open our
+eyes to the fact that beauty exists all about us&mdash;in lane, and field,
+and roadside, and forest. We are not aware of the prevalence of it until
+we go in search of it. When we go out with "the seeing eye," we find it
+everywhere. Nothing is so plentiful or so cheap as beauty to the lover
+of the beautiful. It may be had for the taking. We have fallen into the
+habit of looking to foreign lands for plants with which to beautify our
+gardens, thus neglecting and ignoring the beauty at our own doors. A
+shrub with a long name and a good big price attached will win our
+admiration, while a native plant, vastly more desirable, will be wholly
+overlooked. It ought not to be so. "Home first, the world afterward" is
+the motto of many patriotic men and women, and it ought to be the motto
+of the lover of the beautiful in plant-life when he is seeking for
+something with which to ornament the home-grounds.</p>
+
+<p>Many persons have, however, become greatly interested in our native
+plants, and it is apparent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> that the interest of the masses in whatever
+is beautiful is steadily increasing. The people are being educated to a
+keener appreciation of beauty than ever before. It is encouraging to
+know that a demand has sprung up for shrubs and plants of American
+origin&mdash;a demand so large, already, that many nurserymen advertise
+collections of native plants, some of them quite extensive. Appreciation
+of true beauty is putting a value into things which have heretofore had
+no idea of value connected with them.</p>
+
+<p>The dominant idea I had in mind, when this chapter was planned, was that
+of enlisting the boys and girls in the work of making a collection of
+native plants. I would have them make what might properly be called a
+wild garden. But I would not confine the undertaking to the boys and
+girls. I would interest the man or woman who has a home to make
+beautiful in the material that is to be found on every hand, waiting to
+be utilized. Such a garden can be made of great educational value, and,
+at the same time, quite as ornamental as the garden that contains
+nothing but foreign plants. It can be made to assist in the development
+of patriotic as well as &aelig;sthetic ideas. It can be made to stimulate a
+healthy rivalry among the boys and girls, as well as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> "children of a
+larger growth," as to whose collection shall be most complete. In the
+care and culture of these plants a skill and knowledge may be attained
+that will be of much benefit to them in the future, and possibly to the
+world. Who knows? We may have among us a young Linn&aelig;us, or a Humboldt,
+and the making of a wild garden may tend to the discovery and
+development of a talent which coming years may make us proud to do honor
+to the possessor of.</p>
+
+<p>I would suggest the formation of a wild-garden society in each country
+village and neighborhood. Organize expeditions into the surrounding
+country in search of shrubs and plants. Such excursions can be made as
+delightful as a picnic. Take with you a good-sized basket, to contain
+the plants you gather, and some kind of a tool to dig the plants
+with&mdash;and your dinner. Lift the plants very carefully, with enough earth
+about them to keep their roots moist. On no account should their roots
+be allowed to get dry. If this happens you might as well throw them
+away, at once, as no amount of after-attention will undo the damage that
+is done by neglect to carry out this advice.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 443px;"><a name="img238" id="img238"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p238.jpg" width="443" height="600" alt="PORCH BOX" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PORCH BOX</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The search for plants should begin early in the season if they are to be
+transplanted in spring,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> for it would not be safe to attempt their
+removal after they have begun to make active growth. April is a good
+time to look up your plants, and May a good time to bring them home.
+Later on, when you come across a plant that seems a desirable addition
+to your collection, mark the place where it grows, and transplant to the
+home grounds in fall, after its leaves have ripened.</p>
+
+<p>In transplanting shrubs and herbaceous plants, study carefully the
+conditions under which they have grown, and aim to make the conditions
+under which they <i>are to grow</i> as similar to the original ones as
+possible. Of course you will be able to do this only approximately, in
+most instances, but come as near it as you can, for much of your success
+depends on this. You can give your plants a soil similar to that in
+which they have been growing, and generally, by a little planning, you
+can arrange for exposure to sunshine, or a shaded location, according to
+the nature of the plants you make use of. Very often it is possible to
+so locate moisture-loving plants that they can have the damp soil so
+many of them need, by planting them in low places or depressions where
+water stands for some time after a rain, while those which prefer a dry
+soil can be given places on knolls and stony places<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> from which water
+runs off readily. In order to do this part of the work well it will be
+necessary to study your plants carefully before removing them from their
+home in the wood or field. Aim to make the change as easy as possible
+for them. This can only be done by imitating natural conditions&mdash;in
+other words, the conditions under which they have been growing up to the
+time when you undertake their domestication.</p>
+
+<p>Not knowing, at the start, the kind of plants our collection will
+contain, as it grows, we can have no definite plan to work to.
+Consequently there will be a certain unavoidable lack of system in the
+arrangement of the wild garden. But this may possibly be one of the
+chief charms of it, after a little. A garden formed on this plan&mdash;or
+lack of plan&mdash;will seem to have evolved itself, and the utter absence of
+all formality will make it a more cunning imitation of Nature's methods
+than it would ever be if we began it with the intention of imitating
+her.</p>
+
+<p>Among our early-flowering native plants worthy a place in any garden
+will be found the Dogwoods, the Plums, the Crab-apple, and the wild
+Rose. Smaller plants, like the Trillium, the Houstonia, the Bloodroot,
+the Claytonia and the Hepatica, will work in charmingly in the
+foreground. Between them can be used many<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> varieties of Fern, if the
+location is shaded somewhat, as it should be to suit the flowering
+plants I have named.</p>
+
+<p>Among the summer-flowering sorts we have Aquilegia, Daisy, Coreopsis,
+Cranesbill, Eupatorium, Meadow Sweet, Lily, Helianthus, Enothera,
+Rudbeckia, Vervain, Veronia, Lobelia and many others that grow here and
+there, but are not found in all parts of the country, as those I have
+named are, for the most part.</p>
+
+<p>Among the shrubs are Elder, Spirea, Clethra, Sumach, Dogwood, and others
+equally as desirable.</p>
+
+<p>Among the late bloomers are the Solidagos (Golden Rod), Asters,
+Helenium, Ironweed, and others which continue to bloom until cold
+weather is at hand.</p>
+
+<p>Among the desirable vines are the Ampelopsis, which vies with the Sumach
+in richness of color in fall, the Bittersweet, with its profusion of
+fruitage as brilliant as flowers, and the Clematis, beautiful in bloom,
+and quite as attractive later, when its seeds take on their peculiar
+feathery appendages that make the plant look as if a gray plume had been
+torn apart and scattered over the plant, portions of it adhering to
+every branch in the most airy, graceful manner imaginable.</p>
+
+<p>Though I have named only our most familiar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> wild plants, it will be
+observed that the list is quite a long one. No one need be afraid of not
+being able to obtain plants enough to stock a good-sized garden. The
+trouble will be, in most instances, to find room for all the plants you
+would like to have represented in your collection, after you become
+thoroughly interested in the delightful work of making it. The
+attraction of it will increase as the collection increases, and as you
+discover what a wealth of material for garden-making we have at our very
+doors, without ever having dreamed of its existence, you will be tempted
+to exceed the limitations of the place because of the embarrassment of
+riches which makes a decision between desirable plants difficult. You
+can have but few of them, but you would like all.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_WINTER_GARDEN" id="THE_WINTER_GARDEN"></a>THE WINTER GARDEN</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_m.jpg" width="160" height="141" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="M" />
+</div>
+<p>OST persons who are the owners of gardens seem to be under the
+impression that we must close the summer volume of Nature's book at the
+end of the season, and that it must remain closed until the spring of
+another year invites us to a re-perusal of its attractive pages. In
+other words, that we are not expected to derive much pleasure from the
+garden for six months of the year.</p>
+
+<p>There is no good reason why the home-grounds should not be attractive
+the year round if we plant for winter as well as summer effect.</p>
+
+<p>True, we cannot have flowers in winter, but we can secure color-effects
+with but little trouble that will make good, to a considerable extent,
+the lack of floral color. Without these the winter landscape is cold,
+though beautiful, and to most persons it will seem dreary and monotonous
+in its chill whiteness. But to those who have "the seeing eye," there
+are always elements of wonderful beauty in it, and there is ample
+material at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> hand with which to give it the touches of brightness that
+can make it almost as attractive as it is in June.</p>
+
+<p>If the reader will carefully study the two illustrations accompanying
+this chapter, he will have to admit that the winter garden has many
+attractive features that the summer garden cannot boast of. These
+illustrations are summer and winter views of the same spot, taken from
+one of our public parks. The summer view shows a wealth of foliage and
+bloom, and is one of Nature's beauty-spots that we never tire of. But
+the winter view has in it a suggestion of breadth and distance that adds
+wonderfully to the charm of the scene, brought out as it is by the naked
+branches against the sky, and glimpses of delightful vistas farther on,
+which are entirely hidden by the foliage that interferes with the
+outlook in the summer picture. Note how the evergreens stand out sharply
+against the background, and how clearly every shrub&mdash;every branch&mdash;is
+outlined by the snow. It is one of Nature's etchings. Whatever color
+there is in the landscape is heightened and emphasized by strong, vivid
+contrast. There are little touches of exquisite beauty in this picture
+that cannot be found in the other.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Most of us plant a few evergreens about our homes. Sometimes we are
+fortunate enough to locate them where they will prove effective. Oftener
+we put them where they have no chance to display their charms to good
+effect. They do not belong near the house&mdash;least of all in the "front
+yard." They must be admired at a distance which will soften their
+coarseness of habit. You must be far enough away from them to be able to
+take in their charms of form and color at a glance, to observe the
+graceful sweep of their branches against the snow, and to fully bring
+out the strength and richness of color, none of which things can be done
+at close range. Looked at from a proper and respectful distance, every
+good specimen of evergreen will afford a great deal of pleasure. But it
+might be made to afford a great deal more if we were to set about it in
+the right way. Why not make our evergreens serve as backgrounds against
+which to bring out colors that rival, to some extent, the flowers of
+summer?</p>
+
+<p>Have you never taken a tramp along the edge of the woodland in winter,
+and come suddenly upon a group of Alders? What brightness seemed to
+radiate from their spikes of scarlet berries! The effect is something
+like that of a flame, so intense is it. It seems to radiate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> through the
+winter air with a thrill of positive warmth. So strong an impression do
+they make upon the eye that you see them long after you have passed
+them. They photograph themselves there. Why should we not transplant
+this bit of woodland glory to the garden, and heighten the effect of it
+by giving it an evergreen as a background? Its scarlet fire, seen
+against the dark greenery of Spruce or Arbor Vit&aelig;, would make the winter
+garden fairly glow with color.</p>
+
+<p>I have seen the red-branched Willow planted near an evergreen, and the
+contrast of color brought out every branch so keenly that it seemed
+chiselled from coral. The effect was exquisite.</p>
+
+<p>Train Celastrus <i>scandens</i>, better known as Bittersweet, where its
+pendant clusters of red and orange can show against evergreens, and you
+produce an effect that can be equalled by few flowers.</p>
+
+<p>The Berberry is an exceedingly useful shrub with which to work up vivid
+color-effects in winter. It shows attractively among other shrubs, is
+charming when seen against a drift of snow, but is never quite so
+effective as when its richness of coloring is emphasized by contrast by
+the sombre green of a Spruce or Balsam.</p>
+
+<p>Our native Cranberry&mdash;Viburnum <i>opulus</i>&mdash;is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> one of our best
+berry-bearing shrubs. It holds its crimson fruit well in winter. Planted
+among&mdash;not against&mdash;evergreens, it is wonderfully effective because of
+its tall and stately habit.</p>
+
+<p>Bayberry (Myrica <i>cerifera</i>) is another showy-fruited shrub. Its
+grayish-white berries are thickly studded along its brown branches, and
+are retained through the winter. If this is planted side by side with
+the Alder, the effect will be found very pleasing.</p>
+
+<p>The Snowberry (Symphoricarpus <i>racemosus</i>) has been cultivated for
+nearly a hundred years in our gardens, and probably stands at the head
+of the list of white-fruited shrubs. If this is planted in front of
+evergreens the purity of its color is brought out charmingly. Group it
+with the red-barked Willow, the Alder, or the Berberry, and you secure a
+contrast that makes the effect strikingly delightful&mdash;a symphony in
+green, scarlet, and white. If to this combination you add the blue of a
+winter sky or the glow of a winter sunset, who can say there is not
+plenty of color in a winter landscape?</p>
+
+<p>The value of the Mountain Ash in winter decoration is just beginning to
+be understood. If it retained its fruit throughout the entire season it
+would be one of our most valuable plants, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> the birds claim its
+crimson fruit as their especial property, and it is generally without a
+berry by Christmas in localities where robins and other berry-eating
+birds linger late in the season. Up to that time it is exceedingly
+attractive, especially if it is planted where it can have the benefit of
+strong contrast to bring out the rich color of its great clusters.
+Because of its tall and stately habit it will be found very effective
+when planted between evergreens, with other bright-colored shrubs in the
+foreground.</p>
+
+<p>There are many shrubs whose berries are blue, and purple, and black.
+While these are not as showy as those of scarlet and white, they are
+very attractive, and can be made extremely useful in the winter garden.
+They should not be neglected, because they widen the range of color to
+such an extent that the charge of monotony of tone in the winter
+landscape is ineffective.</p>
+
+<p>The Ramanas Rose (R. <i>lucida</i>) has very brilliant clusters of crimson
+fruit which retains its beauty long after the holidays. This shrub is
+really more attractive in winter than in summer.</p>
+
+<p>It will be understood, from what I said at the beginning of this
+chapter, that I put high value on the decorative effect of leafless
+shrubs. Their branches, whether traced against a background<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> of sky or
+snow, make an embroidery that has about it a charm that summer cannot
+equal in delicacy. A Bittersweet, clambering over bush or tree, and
+displaying its many clusters of red and orange against a background of
+leafless branches, with the intense blue of winter sky showing through
+them, makes a picture that is brilliant in the extreme, when you
+consider the relative values of the colors composing it. Then you will
+discover that the charm is not confined to the color of the fruit, but
+to the delicate tracery of branch and twig, as well.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="WINDOW_AND_VERANDA_BOXES" id="WINDOW_AND_VERANDA_BOXES"></a>WINDOW AND VERANDA BOXES</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_s.jpg" width="160" height="152" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="S" />
+</div>
+<p>OMEBODY had a bright thought when the window-box came into existence.
+The only wonder is that persons who were obliged to forego the pleasure
+of a garden did not think it out long ago. It is one of the
+"institutions" that have come to stay. We see more of them every year.
+Those who have gardens&mdash;or could have them, if they wanted them&mdash;seem to
+have a decided preference for the window-box substitute.</p>
+
+<p>There is a good reason for this: The window-box brings the garden to
+one's room, while the garden obliges one to make it a visit in order to
+enjoy the beauty in it. With the window-box the upstair room can be made
+as pleasant as those below, and the woman in the kitchen can enjoy the
+companionship of flowers while she busies herself with her housewifely
+duties, if she does not care to make herself a back-yard garden such as
+I have spoken of in a preceding chapter. And<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> the humble home that has
+no room for flowers outside its walls, the homes in the congested city,
+away up, up, up above the soil in which a few flowers might possibly be
+coaxed to grow, if man thought less of gain and more of beauty, can be
+made more like what home ought to be, with but little trouble and
+expense, by giving these boxes a chance to do their good work at their
+windows. Blessed be the window-box!</p>
+
+<p>Many persons, however, fail to attain success in the cultivation of
+plants in boxes at the window-sill, and their failures have given rise
+to the impression in the minds of those who have watched their
+undertaking, that success with them is very problematical. "It <i>looks</i>
+easy," said a woman to me last season, "when you see somebody else's box
+just running over with vines, but when you come to make the attempt for
+yourself you wake up to the fact that there's a knack to it that most of
+us fail to discover. I've tried my best, for the last three years, to
+have such boxes as my neighbor has, and I haven't found out what's wrong
+yet. I invest in the plants that are told me to be best adapted to
+window-box culture. I plant them, and then I coax them and coddle them.
+I fertilize them and I shower them, but they stubbornly refuse to do<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span>
+well. They <i>start off</i> all right, but by the time they ought to be doing
+great things they begin to look rusty, and it isn't long before they
+look so sickly and forlorn that I feel like putting them out of their
+misery by dumping them in the ash-heap."</p>
+
+<p>Now this woman's experience is the experience of many other women. She
+thinks,&mdash;and they think,&mdash;that they lack the "gift" that enables some
+persons to grow flowers successfully while others fail utterly with
+them. They haven't "the knack." Now, as I have said elsewhere in this
+book, there's no such thing as "a knack" in flower-growing. Instead of
+"a knack" it's a "know-how." Ninety-nine times out of a hundred failure
+with window-boxes is due to just one thing: They let their plants die
+simply because they do not give them water enough.</p>
+
+<p>Liberal watering is the "know-how" that a person must have to make a
+success of growing; good plants in window and veranda boxes. Simply
+that, and nothing more.</p>
+
+<p>The average woman isn't given to "studying into things" as much as the
+average man is, so she often fails to get at the whys and wherefores of
+many happenings. She sees the plants in her boxes dying slowly, but she
+fails to take note of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> the fact that evaporation from these boxes is
+very rapid. It could not be otherwise because of their exposure to wind
+and air on all sides. She applies water in quantities only sufficient to
+wet the surface of the soil, and because that looks moist she concludes
+there must be sufficient moisture below and lets it go at that.
+Examination would show her that an inch below the surface the soil in
+the box is very, very dry,&mdash;so dry, in fact, that no roots could find
+sustenance in it. This explains why plants "start off" well. While young
+and small their roots are close to the surface, and as long as they
+remain in that condition they grow well enough, but as soon as they
+attempt to send their roots down&mdash;as all plants do, after the earlier
+stages of growth&mdash;they find no moisture, and in a short time they die.</p>
+
+<p>If, instead of applying a basinful of water, a pailful were used, daily,
+all the soil in a box of ordinary size would be made moist all through,
+and so long as a supply of water is kept up there is no reason why just
+as fine plants cannot be grown in boxes as in pots, or the garden beds.
+There is no danger of overwatering, for all surplus water will run off
+through the holes in the box, provided for drainage. Therefore make it a
+rule to apply to your window-box, every day,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> throughout the season,
+enough water to thoroughly saturate all the soil in it. If this is done,
+you will come to the conclusion that at last you have discovered the
+"knack" upon which success depends.</p>
+
+<p>I am often asked what kind of boxes I consider best. To which I reply:
+"The kind that comes handiest." It isn't the box that your plants grow
+in that counts for much. It's the care you give. Of course the soil
+ought to be fairly rich, though a soil of ordinary fertility can be made
+to answer all purposes if a good dose of plant food is given
+occasionally. Care should be taken, however, not to make too frequent
+use of it, as it is an easy matter to force a growth that will be weak
+because of its rapidity, and from which there may be a disastrous
+reaction after a little. The result to aim at is a healthy growth, and
+when you secure that, be satisfied with it.</p>
+
+<p>The idea prevails to a considerable extent that one must make use of
+plants specially adapted to window-box culture. Now the fact is&mdash;almost
+any kind of plant can be grown in these boxes, there being no "special
+adaption" to this purpose, except as to profusion of bloom and habit of
+growth. Drooping plants are desirable to trail over the sides of the
+box, and add that touch of grace which is characteristic of all
+vines.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> Plants that bloom freely throughout the season should be
+chosen in preference to shy and short-season bloomers. Geraniums,
+Petunias, Verbenas, Fuchsias, Salvias, Heliotropes, Paris Daisies&mdash;all
+these are excellent.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="img254" id="img254"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p254.jpg" width="600" height="457" alt="PORCH BOX." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PORCH BOX.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>If one cares to depend on foliage for color, most pleasing results can
+be secured by making use of the plants of which mention has been made in
+the chapter on Carpet-Bedding.</p>
+
+<p>Vines that will give satisfaction are Glechoma, green, with yellow
+variegation&mdash;Vinca <i>Harrisonii</i>, also green and yellow, Moneywort,
+German Ivy, Tradescantia, Thunbergia, and Othonna. A combination of
+plants with richly-colored foliage is especially desirable for boxes on
+the porch or veranda, where showiness seems to be considered as more
+important than delicacy of tint or refinement of quality. In these boxes
+larger plants can be used than one would care to give place to at the
+window. Here is where Cannas and Caladiums will be found very effective.</p>
+
+<p>Ferns, like the Boston and Pierson varieties, are excellent for not too
+sunny window-boxes because of their graceful drooping and spreading
+habit. They combine well with pink-and-white Fuchsias, rose-colored Ivy
+Geraniums, and the white Paris Daisy. Petunias&mdash;the single sorts
+only&mdash;are very satisfactory, because they bloom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> so freely and
+constantly, and have enough of the droop in them to make them as useful
+in covering the sides of the box as they are in spreading over its
+surface. If pink and white varieties are used to the exclusion of the
+mottled and variegated kinds the effect will be found vastly more
+pleasing than where there is an indiscriminate jumbling of colors.</p>
+
+<p>A foot in width, a foot in depth, and the length of the window frame to
+which it is to be attached is a good size for the average window-box.
+Great care must be taken to see that it is securely fastened to the
+frame, and that it is given a strong support, for the amount of earth it
+will contain will be of considerable weight when well saturated with
+water.</p>
+
+<p>Veranda boxes, in which larger plants are to be used, should be
+considerably deeper and wider than the ordinary window-box. Any box of
+the size desired that is substantial enough to hold a sufficient amount
+of soil will answer all purposes, therefore it is not necessary to
+invest in expensive goods unless you have so much money that economy is
+no object to you. If your plants grow as they ought to no one can tell,
+by midsummer, whether your box cost ten dollars or ten cents. If it is
+of wood, give it a coat of some neutral-colored paint before you fill
+it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="SPRING_WORK_IN_THE_GARDEN" id="SPRING_WORK_IN_THE_GARDEN"></a>SPRING WORK IN THE GARDEN</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 148px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_n.jpg" width="148" height="160" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="N" />
+</div>
+<p>OT much actual work can be done in the garden, at the north, before the
+middle of April. But a good deal can be done toward getting ready for
+active work as soon as conditions become favorable.</p>
+
+<p>Right here let me say that it is a most excellent plan to do all that
+can be done to advantage as early in the season as possible, for the
+reason that when the weather becomes warm, work will come with a rush,
+and in the hurry of it quite likely some of it will be slighted. Always
+aim to keep ahead of your work.</p>
+
+<p>I believe, as I have several times said, in planning things. Your garden
+may be small&mdash;so small that you do not think it worth while to give much
+consideration to it in the way of making plans for it&mdash;but it will pay
+you to think over the arrangement of it in advance. "Making garden"
+doesn't consist simply in spading up a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> bed, and putting seed into the
+ground. Thought should be given to the location and arrangement of each
+kind of flower you make use of. The haphazard location of any plant is
+likely to do it injustice, and the whole garden suffers in consequence.</p>
+
+<p>Make a mental picture of your garden as you would like to have it, and
+then take an inventory of the material you have to work with, and see
+how near you can come to the garden you have in mind. Try to find the
+proper place for every flower. Study up on habit, and color, and season
+of bloom, and you will not be likely to get things into the wrong place
+as you will be almost sure to do if you do not give considerable thought
+to this matter. There should be orderliness and system in the garden as
+well as in the house, and this can only come by knowing your plants, and
+so locating them that each one of them will have the opportunity of
+making the most of itself.</p>
+
+<p>Beds can be spaded as soon as the frost is out of the ground, as advised
+in the chapter on The Garden of Annuals, but, as was said in that
+chapter, it is not advisable to do more with them at that time. If the
+ground is worked over when wet, the only result is that you get a good
+many small clods to take the place of large ones. Noth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span>ing is gained by
+being in a hurry with this part of the work. Pulverization of the soil
+can only be accomplished successfully after it has parted with the
+excessive moisture consequent on melting snows and spring rains.
+Therefore let it lie as thrown up by the spade until it is in a
+condition to crumble readily under the application of hoe or rake.</p>
+
+<p>Shrubs can be reset as soon as frost is out of the ground. Remove all
+defective roots when this is done. Make the soil in which you plant them
+quite rich, and follow the instruction given in the chapter on Shrubs as
+carefully as possible, in the work of resetting.</p>
+
+<p>If any changes are to be made in the border, plan for them now. Decide
+just what you want to do. Don't allow any guesswork about it. If you
+"think out" these things the home grounds will improve year by year, and
+you will have a place to be proud of. But the planless system which so
+many follow never gives satisfactory results. It gives one the
+impression of something that started for somewhere but never arrived at
+its destination.</p>
+
+<p>Old border plants which have received little or no attention for years
+will be greatly benefited by transplanting at this season. Cut away<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> all
+the older roots, and make use of none that are not strong and healthy.
+Give them a rich soil. Most of them will have renewed themselves by
+midsummer.</p>
+
+<p>If you do not care to take up the old plants, cut about them with a
+sharp knife, and remove as many of the old roots as possible. This is
+often almost as effective as transplanting, and it does not involve as
+much labor.</p>
+
+<p>The lawn should be given attention at this season. Rake off all
+unsightly refuse that may have collected on it during winter. Give it an
+application of some good fertilizer. It is quite important that this
+should be done early in the season, as grass begins to grow almost as
+soon as frost is out of the ground, and the sward should have something
+to feed on as soon as it is ready for work.</p>
+
+<p>Go over all the shrubs and see if any need attention in the way of
+pruning. But don't touch them with the pruning knife unless they really
+need it. Cut out old wood and weak branches, if there are any, and thin,
+if too thick, but leave the bush to train itself. It knows more about
+this than you do!</p>
+
+<p>Get racks and trellises ready for summer use. These are generally made
+on the spur of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> moment, out of whatever material comes handiest at
+the time they are needed. Such hurriedly constructed things are pretty
+sure to prove eyesores. The gardener who takes pride in his work and his
+garden will not be satisfied with makeshifts, but will see that
+whatever is needed, along this line, is well made, and looks so well
+that he has no reason to be ashamed of it. It should be painted a dark
+green or some other neutral color.</p>
+
+<p>Rake the mulch away from the plants that were given protection in fall
+as soon as the weather gets warm enough to start them to growing. Or it
+can be dug into the soil about them to act as a fertilizer. Get it out
+of sight, for it always gives the garden an untidy effect if left about
+the plants.</p>
+
+<p>Go over the border plants and uproot all grass that has secured a
+foothold there. A space of a foot should be left about all shrubs and
+perennials in which nothing should be allowed to grow.</p>
+
+<p>If any plants seem out of place, take them up and put them where they
+belong. If you cannot find a place where they seem to fit in, discard
+them. The garden will be better off without them, no matter how
+desirable they are, than with them if their presence creates
+color-discord.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Peonies can be moved to advantage now. If you cut about the old clump
+and lift a good deal of earth with it, and do not interfere with its
+roots, no harm will be done. But if you mutilate its roots, or expose
+them, you need not expect any flowers from the plant for a season or
+two.</p>
+
+<p>Get stakes ready for the Dahlias. These should be painted some
+unobtrusive color. If this is done, and they are taken proper care of in
+fall, they will last for years. This is true of racks and trellises.</p>
+
+<p>Provide yourself with a hoe, an iron-toothed rake, a weeding-hook, a
+trowel for transplanting, a wheel-barrow, a spade, and a watering-pot.
+See that the latter is made from galvanized iron if you want it to last.
+Tin pots will rust out in a short time.</p>
+
+<p>Take your watering-pot to the tinsmith and have him fit it out with an
+extension spout&mdash;one that can be slipped on to the end of the spout that
+comes with the pot. Let this be at least two feet in length. This will
+enable you to apply water to the roots of plants standing well back in
+the border, or across beds, and get it just where it will do the most
+good, but a short-spouted plant will not do this unless you take a good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>
+many unnecessary steps in making the application.</p>
+
+<p>Be sure to send in your orders for seed and plants early in the season.
+Have everything on hand, ready for putting into the ground when the
+proper time comes to do this.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="SUMMER_WORK_IN_THE_GARDEN" id="SUMMER_WORK_IN_THE_GARDEN"></a>SUMMER WORK IN THE GARDEN</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_i.jpg" width="160" height="149" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="I" />
+</div>
+<p>F weeds are kept down through the early part of the season, there will
+not be a great deal of weeding to do in midsummer. Still, we cannot
+afford to take it for granted that they require no attention, for they
+are most aggressive things, and so persistent are they that they will
+take advantage of every opportunity for perpetuating themselves.
+Therefore be on the lookout for them, and as soon as you discover one
+that has thought to escape your notice by hiding behind some flowering
+plant, uproot it. One weed will furnish seed enough to fill the entire
+garden with plants next year if let alone.</p>
+
+<p>If the season happens to be very dry, some of your plants&mdash;Dahlias, for
+instance,&mdash;will have to be watered if you want them to amount to
+anything. These must have moisture at their roots in order to flower
+well.</p>
+
+<p>Other plants may be able to get along with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> a mulch of grass-clippings
+from the lawn. Most of our annuals will stand quite a drouth.</p>
+
+<p>If one is connected with a system of waterworks it is an easy matter
+to tide a garden over a drouth. But where there is nothing but the pump
+to depend on for a supply of water, I would not advise beginning
+artificial watering except in rare cases, like that of the Dahlia. We
+always find that so much work is required in supplying our plants from
+the pump that after a little we abandon the undertaking, and the result
+is that the plants we set out to be kind to are left in a worse
+condition, when we give up our spasmodic attention, than they would have
+been in if we had not begun it.</p>
+
+<p>It is well to use the hoe constantly if the season is a dry one. Keep
+the surface of the soil open that it may take in all the moisture
+possible. On no account allow it to become crusted over.</p>
+
+<p>Seed of perennials can be sown now to furnish plants for flowering next
+season.</p>
+
+<p>Look to the Dahlias, and make sure they are properly staked.</p>
+
+<p>Be on the lookout for black beetle on Aster and Chrysanthemum. As soon
+as one is discovered apply Nicoticide, and apply it thoroughly, all over
+the plant. Promptness is demanded in fighting this voracious pest.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>During the latter part of summer, when the extreme hot weather that we
+have at the north sets in, cut away nearly all the top of the
+Pansy-plants. This will give the plants a chance to rest during the
+season when they are not equal to the task of flowering, because of the
+hot, dry weather which is so trying to them. Along in September, when
+the weather becomes cooler, they will take a fresh start and give us
+fine flowers all through the fall.</p>
+
+<p>Look over the perennials and satisfy yourself that there is
+color-harmony everywhere. If you find a discord anywhere, mark the plant
+that makes it for removal later on.</p>
+
+<p>Be sure to keep all seed from developing on the Sweet Peas. This you
+<i>must</i> do if you would have a good crop of flowers during the fall
+months.</p>
+
+<p>If any plants seem too thick, sacrifice some of them promptly. No plant
+can develop itself satisfactorily if it is crowded.</p>
+
+<p>Poor plants will find their way into all collections. If you find one in
+yours, remove it at once. There are so many good ones at our disposal
+that we cannot afford to give place, even for a season, to an inferior
+kind.</p>
+
+<p>Let neatness prevail everywhere. Gather up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> dead leaves and fallen
+flowers, cut away the stalks of plants upon which no more flowers can be
+expected, and keep the walks looking as if you expected visitors at any
+time, and were determined not to be caught in untidy garments.</p>
+
+<p>While the good gardener can always find something to do in the garden,
+he will not have as much work on his hands at this season as at any
+other, therefore it is the time in which he can get the greatest amount
+of pleasure from his flowers, and in proportion to his care of them
+earlier in the season will be the pleasure they afford now.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="FALL_WORK_IN_THE_GARDEN" id="FALL_WORK_IN_THE_GARDEN"></a>FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_b.jpg" width="160" height="149" style="margin-top: -1em;" alt="" title="B" />
+</div>
+<p>ECAUSE the growth of grass on the lawn is not as luxuriant and rapid in
+fall as it is in midsummer, is no reason why the lawn should be
+neglected after summer is over. It should be mowed whenever the grass
+gets too tall to look well, clear up to the end of the season. The neat
+and attractive appearance of the home-grounds depends more upon the lawn
+than anything else about them. It is a good plan to fertilize it well in
+fall, thus enabling the roots of the sward to store up nutriment for the
+coming season. Fine bonemeal is as good for this purpose as anything I
+know of except barnyard manure, and it is superior to that in one
+respect&mdash;it does not contain the seeds of weeds.</p>
+
+<p>Go over the garden before the end of the season and gather up all plants
+that have completed their work. If we neglect to give attention to the
+beds now that the flowering-period is over, a general appearance of
+untidiness will soon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> dominate everything. Much of the depressing effect
+of late fall is due to this lack of attention. The prompt removal of all
+unsightly objects will keep the grounds looking <i>clean</i> after the season
+has passed its prime, and we all know what the Good Book's estimate of
+cleanliness is.</p>
+
+<p>Seedlings of such perennials as Hollyhock, Delphinium, and other plants
+of similar character, ought to be transplanted to the places they are to
+occupy next season by the last of September. If care is taken not to
+disturb their roots when you lift them they will receive no check.</p>
+
+<p>If you give your Hybrid Perpetual Roses a good, sharp cutting-back early
+in September, and manure the soil about them well, you may reasonably
+expect a few fine flowers from them later on. And what is more
+delightful than a perfect Rose gathered from your own garden just at the
+edge of winter?</p>
+
+<p>Perennials can be divided and reset, if necessary, immediately after
+they have ripened off the growth of the present year. If this work is
+done now, there will be just so much less to do in spring.</p>
+
+<p>Before the coming of cold weather all tools used in gardening operations
+should be gathered up and stored under cover. If any repairs are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span>
+needed, make note of them, and see that the work is done in winter, so
+that everything needed in spring may be in readiness for use. It is a
+good plan to give all wood-work a coat of paint at the time it is stored
+away, and to go over the metal part of every tool with a wash of
+vaseline to prevent rust.</p>
+
+<p>Have a general house-cleaning before winter sets in. Cut away the stalks
+of the perennials. Pull up all annuals. Rake up the leaves, and add
+everything of this kind to the compost heap. All garden refuse should
+find its way there, to be transmuted by the alchemy of sun and rain, and
+the disintegrating forces of nature into that most valuable of soil
+constituents&mdash;humus. Let nothing that has any value in it be wasted.</p>
+
+<p>After hard frosts have killed the tops of Dahlias, Cannas, Caladiums and
+Gladioluses, their roots should be dug, on some warm and sunny day, and
+prepared for storage in the cellar or closet. Spread them out in the
+sunshine, and leave them there until the soil that was dug with them is
+dry enough to crumble away from them. At night cover with something to
+keep out the cold, and expose them to the curative effects of the sun
+next day. It may be necessary to do this several days in succession. The
+great amount of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> moisture which they contain when first dug should be
+given a chance to evaporate to a considerable extent before it will be
+safe to put them away for the winter. Cut off the old stalks close to
+the root before storing.</p>
+
+<p>While clearing the beds of dead plants and leaves be on the lookout for
+insects of various kinds. The cut-worm may still be in evidence, and may
+be found among the rubbish which you gather up. And if found, destroy it
+on the spot. This precaution will go far toward safeguarding plants in
+spring, many of which are annually injured by the depredations of this
+pest.</p>
+
+<p>When you are sure that cold weather is at hand, cover the bulb-bed with
+coarse manure or litter, hay, or straw, as advised in the chapter on The
+Bulb Garden. And give your Roses the protection advised in the chapter
+on The Rose.</p>
+
+<p>Cover Pansies lightly with leaves or evergreen branches. If you have
+mulch enough, apply some to your hardy plants, and next spring note the
+difference between them and the plants which were not given any
+protection.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="BY_WAY_OF_POSTSCRIPT" id="BY_WAY_OF_POSTSCRIPT"></a>BY WAY OF POSTSCRIPT</h2>
+
+<h3>A CHAPTER OF AFTERTHOUGHTS WHICH THE READER CANNOT AFFORD TO MISS</h3>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 416px;"><a name="img272" id="img272"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_p272.jpg" width="416" height="600" alt="PLANTING TO HIDE FOUNDATION WALLS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLANTING TO HIDE FOUNDATION WALLS</span>
+</div>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/dropcap_t.jpg" width="160" height="155" alt="" title="T" />
+</div>
+<p>HINK things out for yourself. Do not try to copy anybody else's garden,
+as so many attempt to do. Be original. What you see on your neighbor's
+home grounds may suggest something similar for your own grounds, but be
+content with the idea suggested. He may not have a patent on his own
+working-out of the idea&mdash;indeed, the idea may not have been one of his
+originating&mdash;but the manner in which he has expressed it is his own and
+you should respect his right to it. Imitation of what others have done,
+or are doing, is likely to spoil everything. If the best you can do is
+to copy your neighbor's work servilely in all its details, turn your
+attention to something else. If all the flower-gardens in the
+neighborhood were simply duplicates of each other in material and
+arrangement, the uniformity of them would be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> so monotonous in effect
+that it would be a relief to find a place that was without a garden.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Never imitate anything that you see on the grounds of wealthy people
+with cheap and inferior material. The result will be a sham that will
+deceive no one, and you will soon tire of it, and the sooner the better.
+Be honest. If you have only cheap material to work with, be satisfied
+with unambitious undertakings. Let them be in keeping with what you have
+to work with&mdash;simple, unpretentious, and without any attempt in the way
+of deception. The humblest home can be made attractive by holding fast
+to the principle of honesty in everything that is done about it. It is
+not necessary to imitate in order to make it attractive. Think out
+things for yourself, and endeavor to do the best you can with the
+material at hand, and under the conditions that prevail, and be content
+with that. The result will afford you vastly more satisfaction, even if
+it does not measure up to what you would like, than you can possibly
+realize by imitating another's work. There is a deal of pleasure in
+being able to say about one's home or garden, "It may not be as fine as
+my neighbor's, but, such as it is, it is all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> mine. I have put myself
+into it. It may be plain and humble, but&mdash;there's honesty in it." And
+that is a feature you have a right to be proud of.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Never make the mistake of neglecting good old plants for the sake of
+something new, simply because it is new. Old plants&mdash;plants that have
+held their own against all newcomers&mdash;are the ones to depend on. The
+fact that they <i>have</i> held their own is sufficient proof of their
+merits. Had they been inferior in any respect they would have dropped
+from notice long ago, like the "novelties" that aspired to take their
+places. Old plants are like old friends, old wine&mdash;all the better
+because of their age. There's something substantial about them. We do
+not tire of them. We know what to expect of them, and they never
+disappoint us.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Never make the mistake of thinking the shape of a bed deserves more
+consideration than what you put into the bed. It's the flower that
+deserves attention,&mdash;not the bed it grows in. It isn't treating a flower
+with proper respect to give it secondary place.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span></p><hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Many an amateur gardener tries to have a little of everything, and the
+result is that he has nothing worth speaking of, because quality has
+been sacrificed to quantity. Grow only as many flowers as you can grow
+well, and be wise in selecting only such kinds as do best under the
+conditions in which they must be grown. Depend upon kinds that have been
+tried and not found wanting unless you have a fondness for
+experimenting.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>No really artistic results can be secured by the use of seeds in which
+all colors are mixed. If you desire harmonious effects, you will have to
+purchase seed in which each color is by itself. A few varieties in which
+there is perfect color-harmony will please you far more than a
+collection in which all the colors of the rainbow are represented. Take
+the Sweet Pea as an illustration of this idea: From a package of mixed
+seed you will get a score of different colors or shades, and many of
+these, though beautiful in themselves, will produce positive discord
+when grown side by side. The eye of the person who has fine color-sense
+will be pained by the lack of harmony. But confine your selection to the
+soft<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> pinks, the delicate lavenders, and the pure whites, and the result
+will be something to delight the artistic eye&mdash;restful, harmonious, and
+as pleasing as a strain of exquisite poetry&mdash;in fact, a poem in color.
+What is true of the Sweet Pea, in this respect, is equally true of all
+plants which range through a great variety of colors. Bear this in mind
+when you select seeds for your garden of annuals.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Don't throw away any plants that are worth growing. If you have no use
+for them some of your neighbors will doubtless be glad to get them. Give
+them to the poor children of your neighborhood, and tell them how to
+care for them, and you will not only be doing a kind deed but you will
+be putting into the life that needs uplifting and refining influences a
+means of help and education that you little guess the power of for good.
+For every plant is a teacher, and a preacher of the gospel of beauty,
+and its mission is to brighten and broaden every life that comes under
+its influence. All that it asks is an opportunity to fulfill that
+mission.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>If no one cares for the plants you have no use for, give them a place in
+out-of-the-way nooks<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> and corners&mdash;in the roadside, even, if there is no
+other place for them. A stock of this kind, to draw upon in case any of
+your old plants fail in winter, will save expense and trouble, and
+prevent bare spots from detracting from the appearance of the home
+grounds. It is always well to have a few plants in reserve for just such
+emergencies as this. Very frequently the odds-and-ends corner of the
+garden is the most attractive feature in it.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Many a place is all but spoiled because its owner finds it difficult to
+confine his selection of plants for it to the number it will
+conveniently accommodate. There are so many desirable ones to choose
+from that it is no easy matter to determine which you will have,
+because&mdash;you want them all! But one must be governed by the conditions
+that cannot be changed. Unfortunately the home-lot is not elastic. Small
+grounds necessitate small collections if we would avoid cluttering up
+the place in a manner that makes it impossible to grow anything well.
+Shrubs must have elbow-room in order to display their attractions to the
+best advantage. Keep this in mind, and set out only as many as there
+will be room<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> for when they have fully developed. It may cost you a pang
+to discard an old favorite, but often it has to be done out of regard
+for the future welfare of the kinds you feel you <i>must have</i>. If you
+overstock your garden, it will give you many pangs to see how the plants
+in it suffer from the effect of crowding. If you cannot have <i>all</i> the
+good things, have the very best of the list, and try to grow them so
+well that they will make up in quality for the lack in quantity. I know
+of a little garden in which but three plants grow, but the owner of them
+gives them such care that these three plants attract more attention from
+passers-by than any other garden on that street.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Be methodical in your garden-work. Keep watch of everything, and when
+you see something that needs doing, do it. And do it well. One secret of
+success in gardening is in doing everything as if it was <i>the</i> one thing
+to be done. Slight nothing.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>For vines that do not grow thick enough to hide everything with their
+foliage, a lattice frame<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span>work of lath, painted white, is the most
+satisfactory support, because of the pleasing color-contrast between it
+and the plants trained over it. Both support and plant will be
+ornamental, and one will admirably supplement the other. The lattice
+will be an attractive feature of the garden when the vine that grew over
+it is dead, if it is kept neatly painted.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>But for the rampant grower a coarse-meshed wire netting is just as good,
+and considerably less expensive, in the long run, as it will do duty for
+many years, if taken care of at the end of the season. Roll it up and
+put it under cover before the fall rains set in.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The simple fact of newness is nothing in any plant's favor. Unless it
+has real merit, it will not find purchasers after the first season.
+Better wait until you know what a plant is before investing in it. We
+have so many excellent plants with whose good qualities we are familiar
+that it is not necessary to run any risks of this kind.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span></p><hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Many home-owners make the mistake of putting down boardwalks about the
+dwelling and yard. Such a walk is never attractive, and it has not the
+merit of durability, for after a year or two it will need repairs, and
+from that time on it will be a constant source of expense. The
+variegated appearance of a patched-up boardwalk will seriously detract
+from the attractiveness of any garden. It may cost more, at first, to
+put down cement walks,&mdash;though I am inclined to doubt this, at the
+present price of lumber&mdash;but such walks are good for a lifetime, if
+properly constructed, therefore much cheaper in the end. There can be no
+two opinions as to their superior appearance. Their cool gray color
+brings them into harmony with their surroundings. They are never
+obtrusive. They are easily cleaned, both summer and winter. And the
+home-maker can put them in quite as well as the professional worker in
+cement if he sets out to do so, though he may be longer at the work.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>But <i>make sure</i> about the location of your paths before putting in
+cement walks. That is&mdash;be quite sure that you know where you want them
+to be. A boardwalk can be changed at any time<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> with but little trouble
+if you get it in the wrong place, but a cement walk, once down, is down
+for all time, unless you are willing to spend a good deal of hard labor
+in its removal.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Never do spasmodic work in the garden. The unwise gardener neglects what
+needs doing until so much has accumulated that he is forced to give it
+attention, and then he hurries in his efforts to dispose of it, and the
+consequence is that much of it is likely to be so poorly done that
+plants suffer nearly as much from his hasty operations as they did from
+neglect. Do whatever needs doing in a systematic way, and keep ahead of
+your work. Never be driven by it.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>It is one of the most satisfactory laws of Nature that we can have only
+what we work for. Too many seem to forget this, and think that because a
+flower hasn't a market value, like corn or wheat, it ought to grow
+without any attention on their part. Such persons do not understand the
+real value of a flower, which is none the less because it cannot be
+computed on the basis of a dollars-and-cents calculation.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span></p><hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Man, wife, and all the children ought to work together for whatever adds
+beauty to the home, and nothing is more effective in this line than a
+good flower-garden. I can remember when it was considered an indication
+of weakness for a man to admit that he was fond of flowers. I look back
+with amusement to my own experience in this respect. Because I loved
+flowers so well, when I was a wee bit of a lad, that I attempted to grow
+them, I was often laughed at for being a "girl-boy." "He ought to have
+been a girl," one of my uncles used to say. "You'll have to learn him to
+do sewing and housework." It often stung me to anger to listen to these
+sarcastic remarks, but I am glad that my love for flowers was strong
+enough to keep me at work among them, for I know that I am a better man
+to-day than I would have been had I allowed myself to be ridiculed out
+of my love for them. If the children manifest a desire to have little
+gardens of their own encourage them to do so, and feel sure that the
+cultivation of them will prove to be a strong factor in the development
+of the child mind.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Seedling Hollyhocks almost always look well when winter comes, but in
+spring we find their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> leaves decaying from the effect of too much
+moisture, and this decay is likely to be communicated to the crown of
+the plant, and that means failure. Of late years I protect my plants by
+inverting small boxes over them. The sides of these boxes are bored full
+of holes to admit air, which must be allowed to circulate freely about
+the plant, or it will smother. I invert a box over the plant after
+filling it with leaves, and draw more leaves about the outside of it.
+This prevents water from coming in contact with the soft, sponge-like
+foliage, and the plant comes out in spring almost as green as it was in
+fall.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Plants can be moved with comparative safety any time during the summer
+if one is careful to disturb their roots as little as possible. Take
+them up with a large amount of soil adhering, and handle so carefully
+that it will not break apart. It is a good plan to apply enough water
+before attempting to lift them to thoroughly saturate all the soil
+containing the roots. This will hold the earth together, and prevent
+exposure of the roots, which is the main thing to guard against.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span></p><hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>After putting the plant in place, apply water liberally, and then mulch
+the soil about it with grass-clippings or manure. Of course removal at
+that season will check the growth of the plant to a considerable extent,
+and probably end its usefulness for the remainder of the season. Unless
+absolutely necessary, I would not attempt the work at this time, for
+spring and fall are the proper seasons for doing it.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>In a letter recently received a lady asks this question: "Do you believe
+in flower-shows? If you think they help the cause of flower-growing,
+will you kindly tell me how to go to work to organize such a society?"</p>
+
+<p>To the first question I reply: I <i>do</i> believe in flower-shows and
+horticultural societies when they are calculated to increase the love
+and appreciation of flowers <i>as</i> flowers, rather than to call attention
+to the skill of the florist in producing freaks which are only
+attractive as curiosities. I sincerely hope that the day of
+Chrysanthemums a foot across and Roses as large as small Cabbages is on
+the wane.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The thing to do in organizing a floral association is&mdash;to paraphrase
+Horace Greeley's famous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> advice as to the resumption of specie
+payment&mdash;to organize! In other words, to get right down to business and
+give the proposed society a start by bringing flower-loving people
+together, and beginning to work without wasting time on unnecessary
+details. If you make use of much "red tape" you will kill the
+undertaking at the outset. Simply form your society and appoint your
+committees, and you will find that the various matters which perplex you
+when looked at in the whole will readily adjust themselves to the
+conditions that arise as the society goes on with its work. Put theories
+aside, and <i>do something</i>, and you will find very little difficulty in
+making your society successful if you can secure a dozen really
+interested persons as members. I would be glad to know that such a
+society existed in every community.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>I would advise my readers never to have anything to do with
+plant-peddlers. Of course it is <i>possible</i> for the man who goes about
+the country with plants for sale to be as honest as any other man, but
+we see so few indications of the possession of honest principles by the
+majority of these men that we have come to consider them all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>
+unreliable, and, as a matter of protection, we have to refuse to
+patronize any of them at the risk of doing injustice to those who may be
+strictly reliable. They will sell you Roses that have a different
+colored flower each month throughout the season, blue Roses,
+Resurrection Plants that come to life at a snap of the finger, and are
+equally valuable for decorative purposes and for keeping moths out of
+clothing, and numerous other things rare, wonderful, and all high
+priced, every one of which can be classed among the humbugs. Patronize
+dealers in whom you are justified in having confidence because of a
+well-established reputation for fair dealing.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The Hollyhock is often attacked by what is called "rust." The leaves
+become brown, and dry at the edges, and the entire plant has a look much
+like that of a nail which has been for some time in water, hence the
+popular name of the disease. This "rust" is really a fungoid trouble,
+and unless it is promptly checked it will soon spread to other plants.
+If it appears on several plants at the same time, I would advise cutting
+them, and burning every branch and stalk. If but one plant is attacked,
+I would spray it with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> Bordeaux Mixture, which can now be obtained in
+paste form from most florists. This is the only dependable remedy I know
+of for the fungus ills that plants are heir to. Asparagus is often so
+badly affected with it, of late years, that many growers have been
+obliged to mow down their plants and burn their tops in midsummer, in
+their efforts to save their stock. Never leave any of the cut-off
+portions of a plant on the ground, thinking that cutting down is all
+that is necessary. The fungus spores will survive the winter, and be
+ready for work in spring. Burn everything.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>A house whose foundation walls are left fully exposed always has an
+unfinished look. But if we hide them by shrubs and flowering plants the
+place takes on a look of completion, and the effect is so pleasing that
+we wonder why any house should be left with bare walls. The plants about
+it seem to unite it with the grounds in such a manner that it becomes a
+part of them. But the house whose walls are without the grace of "green
+things growing," always suggest that verse in the Good Book which tells
+of "being <i>in</i> the world, but not <i>of</i> it."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I would always surround the dwelling with shrubs and perennials, and use
+annuals and bulbs between them and the paths that run around the house.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>On the north side of a dwelling large-growing Ferns can be planted with
+fine effect. These should be gathered in spring, and a good deal of
+native soil should be brought with them from the woods. They will not
+amount to much the first year, but they will afford you a great deal of
+pleasure thereafter. Use in front of them such shade-loving plants as
+Lily of the Valley and Myosotis.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Nowadays "tropical effects" are greatly admired. We have but few plants
+that adapt themselves to this phase of gardening. Canna, Caladium,
+Ricinus, Coleus, "Golden Feather" Pyrethrum and the gray Centaurea cover
+pretty nearly the entire list. But by varying the combinations that can
+be made with them the amateur can produce many new and pleasing effects,
+thus avoiding the monotony which results from simply copying the beds
+that we see year after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> year in the public parks, from whose likeness to
+each other we get the impression that no other combination can be made.
+Study out new arrangements for yourself. Plant them, group them, use
+them as backgrounds for flowering plants, mass them in open spaces in
+the border. Do not get the idea that they must always be used by
+themselves. Cannas, because of the great variety of color in their
+foliage, can be made attractive when used alone, but the others depend
+upon combination with other plants for the contrast which brings out and
+emphasizes their attractive features.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Speaking of new arrangements reminds me to say that the amateur gardener
+ought always to plan for original effects if he or she would get out of
+gardening all the pleasure there is in it. It may seem almost necessary
+for the <i>beginner</i> to copy the ideas of others in the arrangement of the
+garden, to a considerable extent, but he should not get into the slavish
+habit of doing so. Hazlitt says: "Originality implies independence of
+opinion. It consists in seeing for one's self." That's it, exactly.
+Study your plants. Find out their possibilities. And then plan
+arrangements<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> of your own for next season. Have an opinion of your own,
+and be independent enough to attempt its carrying out. Don't be afraid
+of yourself. Originate! Originate! Originate!</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>When you invest your money in a fine plant you do it for the pleasure of
+yourself and family. When a neighbor comes along and admires it, and
+asks you to divide it with her, don't let yourself be frightened into
+doing so from regard of what she may say or think if you refuse. Tell
+her where she can get a plant like it, but don't spoil your own plant
+for anybody.</p>
+
+<p>I am well aware that advice of this kind may seem selfish, but it is
+not. There's no good reason why my neighbor should not get his plants in
+the same way I got mine. I buy with the idea of beautifying my home with
+them, and this I cannot do so long as I yield to everybody's request for
+a slip or a root.</p>
+
+<p>I have in mind a woman who, some years ago, invested in a rare variety
+of Peony. When her plant came into bloom her friends admired it so much
+that they all declared they must have a "toe" of it. The poor woman
+hated terribly to disturb her plant, for she was quite sure what<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> the
+result would be, having had considerable experience with Peonies, but
+she lacked the courage to say no, and the consequence was that she gave
+a root to the first applicant, and that made it impossible for her to
+refuse the second one and those who came after, and from that time to
+this she has kept giving away "toes," and her plant is a poor little
+thing to-day, not much larger than when it was first planted, while
+plants grown from it are large and fine. She wouldn't mind it so much if
+her friends were willing to divide <i>their</i> plants with <i>their</i> friends,
+but they will not do this "for fear of spoiling them." Instead, they
+send their friends to her. This is a fact, and I presume it can be
+duplicated in almost every neighborhood.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The flower-loving person is, as a general thing, a very generous person,
+and he takes delight in dividing his plants with others when he can do
+so without injuring them. He is glad to do this because of his love for
+flowers, and the pleasure it affords him to get others interested in
+them and their culture. But there is such a thing as being overgenerous.
+Our motto should be, "Home's garden first, my neighbor's garden
+afterward."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It is generally thoughtlessness which prompts people to ask us to divide
+our choice plants with them. If we were to be frank with them, and tell
+them why we do not care to do this, they would readily understand the
+situation, and, instead of blaming us for our refusal, they would blame
+themselves for having been so thoughtlessly selfish as to have made the
+request.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The question is often asked:</p>
+
+<p>"Why can't we save our own flower-seeds? Aren't the plants we grow just
+as healthy as those of the seedsmen we patronize year after year? Ought
+not the seed from them to be just as good as that we buy?"</p>
+
+<p>Just as good, no doubt, in one sense, and <i>not</i> as good, in another. We
+grow our plants for their flowers. The seedsmen grow theirs for their
+seed, and in order to secure the very best article they give their
+plants care and culture that ours are not likely to get. Their methods
+are calculated to result in constant improvement. Ours tend in the other
+direction. The person who grows plants year after year from home-grown
+seed will almost invariably tell you that her plants "seem to be running
+out."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The remedy for this state of things is to get fresh seed, each year,
+from the men who understand how to grow it to perfection.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>One ought always to keep his shrubs and choice plants labelled so that
+no mistake can be made as to variety. We may be on speaking terms with
+the whole Smith family, but we never feel really acquainted with them
+until we know which is John, or Susan, or William. It ought to be so in
+our friendship with our plants. Who that loves Roses would be content to
+speak of La France, and Madame Plantier, and Captain Christy simply as
+Roses? We must be on such intimate terms with them that each one has a
+personality of its own for us. <i>Then</i> we know them, and not <i>till</i> then.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The best label to make use of is a zinc one, because it is almost
+everlasting, while a wooden one is short lived, and whatever is written
+on it soon becomes indistinct.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>In attaching any label to a plant, be careful not to twist the wire with
+which you attach it so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> tightly that it will cut into the branch. As the
+branch grows the wire will shut off the circulation of the plant's
+life-blood through that branch, and the result will be disastrous to
+that portion of the plant.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Different varieties of perennials ought to be kept track of quite as
+much as in the case of shrubs. As the old stalks die away and are cut
+off each season, there is no part of the plant to which a label can be
+attached with any permanence. There are iron sockets on the market into
+which the piece of wood bearing the name of the variety can be inserted.
+An all-wool label would speedily decay in contact with the soil.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Sometimes we get very amusing letters from parties "in search of
+information." Not long ago a woman sent me a leaf from her Boston Fern,
+calling my attention to the "bugs" on the lower side of it, and asking
+how she could get rid of them. How did I suppose they contrived to
+arrange themselves with such regularity? A little careful investigation
+would have shown her that the rows of "bugs" were seed-spores. If<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span>
+anything about your plants puzzles you, use your eyes and your
+intelligence, and endeavor to find out the "whys and wherefores" for
+yourself. You will enjoy doing this when you once get into the habit of
+it. Information that comes to us through our own efforts is always
+appreciated much more than that which comes to us second-hand. Make a
+practice of personal investigation in order to get at a solution of the
+problems that will constantly confront you in gardening operations.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>In answer to another correspondent who asked me to recommend some
+thoroughly reliable fertilizer, I advised "old cow-manure." Back came a
+letter, saying I had neglected to state <i>how old</i> the cow ought to be!</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>But the funny things are not all said by our correspondents. I lately
+came across an article credited to a leading English gardening magazine
+in which the statement was made that a certain kind of weed closely
+resembling the Onion often located itself in the Onion-bed in order to
+escape the vigilance of the weed-puller, its in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span>stinct telling it that
+its resemblance to the Onion would deceive the gardener! Is anyone
+foolish enough to believe that the weed knew just where to locate
+itself, and had the ability to put itself there? One can but laugh at
+such "scientific statements," and yet it seems too bad to have people
+humbugged so.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>A woman writes: "I don't care very much about plants. I never did. But
+almost everybody grows them, nowadays, and I'd like to have a few for my
+parlor, so as to be in style. You know the old saying that 'one might as
+well be out of the world as out of fashion.' I wish you'd tell me what
+to get, and how to take care of it. I want something that will just
+about take care of itself. I don't want anything I'll have to bother
+with."</p>
+
+<p>My advice to this correspondent was, "Don't try to grow plants."</p>
+
+<p>The fact is, the person who doesn't grow them <i>out of love for them</i>
+will never succeed with them, therefore it would be well for such
+persons not to attempt their culture. This for the plant's sake, as well
+as their own. Plants call for something. Plants ask for something more
+than a regular<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> supply of food and water. They must have that
+sympathy,&mdash;that friendship&mdash;which enables one to understand them and
+their needs, and treat them accordingly. This knowledge will come
+through intuition and from keen, intelligent observation, such as only a
+real plant-lover will be likely to give. Those who grow plants&mdash;or
+<i>attempt</i> to grow them&mdash;simply because their neighbors do so will never
+bring to their cultivation that careful, conscientious attention which
+alone can result in success. The idea of growing a flower because "it is
+the fashion to do so!"</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>It may seem to some who read what I have said above that I do not
+encourage the cultivation of flowers by the masses. That's a wrong
+conclusion to jump at. I would like to have everybody the owner of a
+flower-garden. Those who have never attempted the culture of flowers are
+very likely to develop a love for them of whose existence, of the
+possibility of which, they had never dreamed. A dormant feeling is
+kindled into activity by our contact with them. But these persons must
+begin from a better motive than a desire to have them simply because it
+is "the style." The desire to succeed with them <i>because<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> you like them</i>
+will insure success. Those who would have flowers because <i>it is the
+fashion</i> to have them may experience a sort of <i>satisfaction</i> in the
+possession of them, but this is a feeling utterly unlike the pleasure
+known to those who grow flowers <i>because they love them</i>.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>I am not a believer in the "knack" of flower-growing in the sense that
+some are born with a special ability in that line, or, as some would
+say, with a "<i>gift</i>" that way. We often hear it said, "Flowers will grow
+for her if she just <i>looks</i> at them." This is a wrong conclusion to
+arrive at in the cases of those who are successful with them. They do
+something more than simply "look" at their plants. They take intelligent
+care of them. Some may acquire this ability easier and sooner than
+others, but it is a "knack" that anyone may attain to who is willing to
+keep his eyes open, and reason from cause to effect. Don't get the idea
+that success at plant-growing comes without observation, thought, and
+work. All the "knack" you need to have is a liking for flowers, and a
+desire to understand how you can best meet their special requirements.</p>
+
+<p>In other words, the <i>will</i> to succeed will find out the <i>way</i> to that
+result.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span></p><hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Just now, while I am at work on the last pages of this book, comes an
+inquiry, which I answer here because the subject of it is one of general
+interest: "Every spring our Crimson Rambler Roses are infested with
+thousands of green plant-lice. The new shoots will be literally covered
+with them. And in fall the stalks of our Rudbeckia are as thickly
+covered with a <i>red</i> aphis, which makes it impossible for us to use it
+for cut-flower work. Is there a remedy for these troubles?"</p>
+
+<p>Yes. Nicoticide will rid the plants of their enemies if applied
+thoroughly, and persistently. One application may not accomplish the
+desired result, because of failure to reach all portions of the plant
+with it, but a second or a third application will do the work.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>By way of conclusion I want to urge women with "nerves" to take the
+gardening treatment. Many housewives are martyrs to a prison-life. They
+are shut up in the house from year's end to year's end, away from
+pleasant sights, sounds, fresh air, and sunshine. If we can get such a
+woman into the garden for a half-hour each day, throughout the summer,
+we can make a new woman of her. Work among flowers, where the air is
+pure and sweet, and sunshine is a tonic, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> companionship is cheerful,
+will lift her out of her work and worry, and body and mind will grow
+stronger, and new life, new health, new energy will come to her, and the
+cares and vexations that made life a burden, because of the nervous
+strain resulting from them, will "take wings and fly away." Garden-work
+is the best possible kind of medicine for overtaxed nerves. It makes
+worn-out women over into healthy, happy women. "I thank God, every day,
+for my garden," one of these women wrote me, not long ago. "It has given
+me back my health. It has made me feel that life <i>is</i> worth living,
+after all. I believe that I shall get so that I live in my garden most
+of the time. By that I mean that I shall be thinking about it and
+enjoying it, either in recollection or anticipation, when it is
+impossible for me to be actually in it. My mind will be there in winter,
+and I will be there in summer. Why&mdash;do you know, I did a good deal more
+housework last year than ever before, and I did it in order to find time
+to work among my flowers. Work in the garden made housework easier.
+Thank God for flowers, I say!"</p>
+
+<p>Yes&mdash;God be thanked for flowers!</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="centerbox bbox">
+
+   <h4><i>Gardening Books<br />
+   By Eben E. Rexford</i></h4>
+
+<h4>The Home Garden</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">A practical book for the use of those who own</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">a small garden in which they would like to grow</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">vegetables and small fruits.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+   <p class="center"><i>Eight full-page illustrations. 12mo. 198 pages,<br />
+   cloth, ornamental, $1.25 net.</i></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+
+<h4>Four Seasons in the Garden</h4>
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">This book treats of all phases of the subject,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">from the simple bed or two along the fence in a</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">city back yard, to the most pretentious garden of</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">the suburban or country dweller.</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Twenty-six illustrations in tint, colored frontispiece,<br />
+decorated title page and lining papers.<br />
+Crown 8vo. Cloth, $1.50 net.</i></p>
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<h4>Indoor Gardening</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">The information that is given in this book</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">was gained by the writer through personal work</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">among flowers, and the methods described have</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">all been successfully tried by him.</span><br />
+</p>
+<p class="center"><i>Colored frontispiece and 32 illustrations. Decorated<br />
+title page and lining papers. Crown 8vo.<br />
+Ornamental cloth, $1.50 net.</i></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<h4>Amateur Gardencraft</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">A book for the home-maker and garden lover.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Colored frontispiece, 33 illustrations in tint, decorated<br />
+title page and lining papers. Crown<br />
+8vo. Ornamental cloth, $1.50 net.</i>
+</p>
+<p class="center"><i>J. B. Lippincott Company</i><br />
+<br />
+<i>Publishers</i> <i>Philadelphia</i>
+</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;">
+<img src="images/endpaper.jpg" width="325" height="450" alt="" title="decoration" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Amateur Gardencraft, by Eben E. Rexford
+
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@@ -0,0 +1,6718 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Amateur Gardencraft, by Eben E. Rexford
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Amateur Gardencraft
+       A Book for the Home-Maker and Garden Lover
+
+Author: Eben E. Rexford
+
+Release Date: May 1, 2008 [EBook #25278]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMATEUR GARDENCRAFT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Audrey Longhurst and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from scanned images of public domain material
+from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+AMATEUR GARDENCRAFT
+
+
+[Illustration:
+
+         Not wholly in the busy world, nor quite
+   Beyond it, blooms the garden that I love
+
+_Tennyson_]
+
+
+
+
+   AMATEUR
+   GARDENCRAFT
+
+   A BOOK FOR THE HOME-MAKER
+   AND GARDEN LOVER
+
+   BY
+   EBEN E. REXFORD
+
+   _WITH 34 ILLUSTRATIONS_
+
+   [Illustration]
+
+   PHILADELPHIA & LONDON
+   J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
+   1912
+
+   COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
+
+   PUBLISHED FEBRUARY, 1912
+
+   PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
+   AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS
+   PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A.
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD
+
+
+The home that affords the most pleasure to its owner is the one which is
+largely the result of personal effort in the development of its
+possibilities. The "ready-made home," if I may be allowed the
+expression, may be equally as comfortable, from the standpoint of
+convenience,--and possibly a great deal more so,--but it invariably
+lacks the charm which invests the place that has developed under our own
+management, by slow and easy stages, until it seems to have become part
+of ourselves.
+
+Home-making is a process of evolution. We take up the work when
+everything connected with it is in a more or less chaotic condition,
+probably without any definite plan in mind. The initial act in the
+direction of development, whatever it may be, suggests almost
+immediately something else that can be done to advantage, and in this
+way we go on doing little things from day to day, until the time comes
+when we suddenly discover what wonderful things have been accomplished
+by our patient and persistent efforts, and we are surprised and
+delighted at the result. Were we to plan it all out before beginning it,
+very likely the undertaking would seem so formidable that it would
+discourage us. But the evolutionary process takes place so gradually, as
+we work hand in hand with that most delightful of all companions,
+Nature, that work becomes play, and we get more enjoyment out of it, as
+it goes along, than it is possible to secure in any other way if we are
+lovers of the beauty that belongs about the ideal home. The man or woman
+who sees little or nothing to admire in tree, or shrub, or flower, can
+have no conception of the pleasure that grows out of planting these
+about the home--_our_ home--and watching them develop from tiny plant,
+or seed to the fruition of full maturity. The place casts off the
+bareness which characterizes the beginning of most homes, by almost
+imperceptible degrees, until it becomes a thing of beauty that seems to
+have been almost a creation of our own, because every nook and corner of
+it is vital with the essence of ourselves. Whatever of labor is
+connected with the undertaking is that of love which carries with it a
+most delightful gratification as it progresses. In proportion as we
+infuse into it a desire to make the most of any and everything that will
+attract, and please, and beautify, we reap the reward of our efforts.
+Happy is the man who can point his friends to a lovely home and say--"I
+have done what I could to make it what it is. _I_ have done it--not the
+professional who goes about the country making what he _calls_ homes at
+so much a day, or by the job." The home that somebody has made for us
+never appeals to us as does the one into which we _have put ourselves_.
+Bear that in mind, and be wise, O friend of mine, and be your own
+home-maker.
+
+Few of us could plan out the Home Beautiful, at the beginning, if we
+were to undertake to do so. There may be a mind-picture of it as we
+think we would like it to be, but we lack the knowledge by which such
+results as we have in mind are to be secured. Therefore we must be
+content to begin in a humble way, and let the work we undertake show us
+what to do next, as it progresses. We may never attain to the degree of
+knowledge that would make us successful if we were to set ourselves up
+as professional gardeners, but it doesn't matter much about that, since
+that is not what we have in mind when we begin the work of home-making.
+We are simply working by slow and easy steps toward an ideal which we
+may never realize, but the ideal is constantly before us to urge us on,
+and the home-instinct actuates us in all our efforts to make the place
+in which we live so beautiful that it will have for those we love, and
+those who may come after us, a charm that no other place on earth will
+ever have until the time comes when _they_ take up the work of
+home-making _for themselves_.
+
+[Illustration: PILLAR-TRAINED VINES]
+
+The man or woman who begins the improvement and the beautifying of the
+home as a sort of recreation, as so many do, will soon feel the thrill
+of the delightful occupation, and be inspired to greater undertakings
+than he dreamed of at the beginning. One of the charms of home-making is
+that it grows upon you, and before you are aware of it that which was
+begun without a definite purpose in view becomes so delightfully
+absorbing that you find yourself thinking about it in the intervals of
+other work, and are impatient to get out among "the green things
+growing," and dig, and plant, and prune, and train. You feel, I fancy,
+something of the enthusiasm that Adam must have felt when he looked over
+Eden, and saw what great things were waiting to be done in it. I am
+quite satisfied he saw chances for improvement on every hand. God had
+placed there the material for the first gardener to work with, but He
+had wisely left it for the other to do with it what he thought best,
+when actuated by the primal instinct which makes gardeners of so many,
+if not the most, of us when the opportunity to do so comes our way.
+
+I do not advocate the development of the aesthetic features of the home
+from the standpoint of dollars and cents. I urge it because I believe it
+is the _duty_ of the home-owner to make it as pleasant as it can well be
+made, and because I believe in the gospel of beauty as much as I believe
+in the gospel of the Bible. It is the religion that appeals to the finer
+instincts, and calls out and develops the better impulses of our nature.
+It is the religion that sees back of every tree, and shrub, and flower,
+the God that makes all things--the God that plans--the God that expects
+us to make the most and the best of all the elements of the good and the
+beautiful which He has given into our care.
+
+In the preparation of this book I have had in mind the fact that
+comparatively few home-owners who set about the improvement of the
+home-grounds know what to do, and what to make use of. For the benefit
+of such persons I have tried to give clear and definite instructions
+that will enable them to work intelligently. I have written from
+personal experience in the various phases of gardening upon which I have
+touched in this book. I am quite confident that the information given
+will stand the test of most thorough trial. What I have done with the
+various plants I speak of, others can do if they set about it in the
+right way, and with the determination of succeeding. The will will find
+the way to success. I would not be understood as intending to convey the
+impression that I consider my way as _the_ way. By no means. Others have
+accomplished the same results by different methods. I simply tell what I
+have done, and how I have done it, and leave it to the home-maker to be
+governed by the results of my experience or that of others who have
+worked toward the same end. We may differ in methods, but the outcome
+is, in most instances, the same. I have written from the standpoint of
+the amateur, for other amateurs who would make the improvement of the
+home-grounds a pleasure and a means of relaxation rather than a source
+of profit in a financial sense, believing that what I have to say will
+commend itself to the non-professional gardener as sensible, practical,
+and helpful, and strictly in line with the things he needs to know when
+he gets down to actual work.
+
+I have also tried to make it plain that much of which goes to the making
+of the home is not out of reach of the man of humble means--that it is
+possible for the laboring man to have a home as truly beautiful in the
+best sense of the term as the man can have who has any amount of money
+to spend--that it is not the money that we put into it that counts so
+much as _the love for it_ and the desire to take advantage of every
+chance for improvement. Home, for home's sake, is the idea that should
+govern. Money can hire the work done, but it cannot infuse into the
+result the satisfaction that comes to the man who is his own home-maker.
+
+But not every person who reads this book will be a home-maker in the
+sense spoken of above. It will come into the hands of those who have
+homes about which improvements have already been made by themselves or
+others, but who take delight in the cultivation of shrubs and plants
+because of love for them. Many of these persons get a great deal of
+pleasure out of experimenting with them. Others do not care to spend
+time in experiments, but would be glad to find a short cut to success.
+To such this book will make a strong appeal, for I feel confident it
+will help them to achieve success in gardening operations that are new
+to them if they follow the instruction to be found in its pages. I have
+not attempted to tell all about gardening, for there is much about it
+that I have yet to learn. I expect to keep on learning as long as I
+live, for there is always more and more for us to find out about it.
+That's one of its charms. But I have sought to impart the fundamental
+principles of it as I have arrived at a knowledge of them, from many
+years of labor among trees, and shrubs, and flowers--a labor of
+love--and it is with a sincere hope that I have not failed in my purpose
+that I give this book to
+
+                THE HOME-MAKER AND THE GARDEN-LOVER.
+
+                                                 THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+   CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+   THE LAWN: HOW TO MAKE IT AND HOW TO TAKE CARE
+   OF IT                                                              17
+
+   PLANTING THE LAWN                                                  34
+
+   SHRUBS                                                             49
+
+   VINES                                                              68
+
+   THE HARDY BORDER                                                   81
+
+   THE GARDEN OF ANNUALS                                              97
+
+   THE BULB GARDEN                                                   116
+
+   THE ROSE: ITS GENERAL CARE AND CULTURE                            128
+
+   THE ROSE AS A SUMMER BEDDER                                       149
+
+   THE DAHLIA                                                        156
+
+   THE GLADIOLUS                                                     166
+
+   LILIES                                                            172
+
+   PLANTS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES                                       176
+
+   ARBORS, SUMMER-HOUSES, PERGOLAS, AND OTHER GARDEN
+   FEATURES                                                          189
+
+   CARPET-BEDDING                                                    205
+
+   FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR EDGING BEDS AND
+   WALKS                                                             216
+
+   PLANNING THE GARDEN                                               223
+
+   THE BACK-YARD GARDEN                                              220
+
+   THE WILD GARDEN                                                   234
+
+   THE WINTER GARDEN                                                 243
+
+   WINDOW AND VERANDA BOXES                                          250
+
+   SPRING WORK IN THE GARDEN                                         257
+
+   SUMMER WORK IN THE GARDEN                                         264
+
+   FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN                                           268
+
+   BY WAY OF POSTSCRIPT                                              272
+
+
+
+
+   ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+   "NOT WHOLLY IN THE BUSY WORLD, NOR QUITE BEYOND
+   IT, BLOOMS THE GARDEN THAT I LOVE"                      _Frontispiece_
+
+   PILLAR-TRAINED VINES                                                8
+
+   IVY, CLIMBING ROSES, AND COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE                      34
+
+   A BIT OF INFORMAL BORDER                                           37
+
+   SHRUBS ALONG THE DRIVEWAY                                          44
+
+   SNOWBALL                                                           57
+
+   AMERICAN IVY AND GERANIUMS                                         60
+
+   HONEYSUCKLE                                                        73
+
+   JAPAN IVY GROWING ON WALL                                          75
+
+   SHRUBS AND PERENNIALS COMBINED IN BORDER                           83
+
+   OLD-FASHIONED HOLLYHOCKS                                           88
+
+   THE PEONY AT ITS BEST                                              90
+
+   A BIT OF THE BORDER OF PERENNIAL PLANTS                            92
+
+   A BED OF ASTERS                                                   106
+
+   BED OF WHITE HYACINTHS BORDERED WITH PANSIES                      125
+
+   HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE                                             130
+
+   ROSE TRELLIS                                                      136
+
+   RAMBLER ROSES                                                     142
+
+   DOROTHY PERKINS ROSE--THE BEST OF THE RAMBLERS                    145
+
+   TEA ROSE                                                          152
+
+   CACTUS DAHLIA                                                     160
+
+   A GARDEN GLIMPSE                                                  170
+
+   AURATUM LILY                                                      174
+
+   THE ODDS AND ENDS CORNER                                          180
+
+   SUMMER HOUSE                                                      191
+
+   A PERGOLA SUGGESTION                                              195
+
+   A SIMPLE PERGOLA FRAMEWORK                                        198
+
+   GARDENER'S TOOL-HOUSE                                             200
+
+   A BORDER OF CREEPING PHLOX                                        220
+
+   IN SUMMER                                                         224
+
+   IN WINTER                                                         224
+
+   PORCH BOX                                                         238
+
+   PORCH BOX                                                         254
+
+   PLANTING TO HIDE FOUNDATION WALLS                                 272
+
+The Illustrations are reproduced from photographs by J. F. Murray.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+THE LAWN: HOW TO MAKE IT AND HOW TO TAKE CARE OF IT
+
+
+The owner of the average small home seldom goes to the expense of
+employing the professional gardener to do the work of lawn-making.
+Sometimes he cannot afford to do so. Sometimes skilled labor is not
+obtainable. The consequence is, in the majority of cases, the lawn,--or
+what, by courtesy, is called by that name,--is a sort of evolution which
+is an improvement on the original conditions surrounding the home, but
+which never reaches a satisfactory stage. We see such lawns
+everywhere--rough, uneven, bare in spots, anything but attractive in a
+general way, and but little better than the yard which has been given no
+attention, were it not for the shrubs and plants that have been set out
+in them. The probabilities are that if you ask the owner of such a place
+why he has no lawn worth the name, he will give one or the other of the
+reasons I have made mention of above as his excuse for the existing
+condition of things about the home. If you ask him why he has not
+undertaken the work himself, he will most likely answer that he lacks
+the knowledge necessary to the making of a fine lawn, and rather than
+experiment with it he has chosen to let it alone.
+
+Now the fact is--lawn-making has nothing mysterious about it, as so many
+seem to think. It does not call for skilled labor. It need not be an
+expensive undertaking. Any man who owns a home that he desires to make
+the most of can make himself a lawn that will be quite as satisfactory,
+in nearly every instance, as the one made by the professional
+gardener--more so, in fact, since what we make for ourselves we
+appreciate much more than that which we hire made for us. The object of
+this paper is to assist home-makers in doing just this kind of work. I
+shall endeavor to make it so plain and practical that anyone so inclined
+can do all that needs doing in a satisfactory manner. It may not have
+that nicety of finish, when completed, that characterizes the work of
+the professional, but it will harmonize with its surroundings more
+perfectly, perhaps, and will afford us quite as much pleasure as the
+work of the expert.
+
+If the house has just been built, very likely everything about it is in
+a more or less chaotic condition. Odds and ends of lumber, mortar,
+brick, and all kinds of miscellaneous building material scattered all
+over the place, the ground uneven, treeless, shrubless, and utterly
+lacking in all the elements that go to make a place pleasing and
+attractive. Out of this chaos order must be evolved, and the evolution
+may be satisfactory in every way--if we only begin right.
+
+The first thing to do is to clear away all the rubbish that clutters up
+the place. Do not make the mistake of dumping bits of wood into hollows
+with the idea that you are making a good foundation for a lawn-surface.
+This wood will decay in a year or two, and there will be a depression
+there. Fill into the low places only such matter as will retain its
+original proportions, like brick and stone. Make kindling-wood of the
+rubbish from lumber, or burn it. Get rid of it in some way before you
+begin operations. What you want, at this stage of the proceedings, is a
+ground entirely free from anything that will interfere with grading the
+surface of it.
+
+If the lot upon which the house stands is a comparatively level one--or
+rather, was, before the house was built--it is generally easy to secure
+a slope from the house on all sides, by filling in about the building
+with the soil thrown up from the cellar or in making excavation for the
+walls. If no excavation of any kind has been made--and quite often,
+nowadays, foundation walls are built _on_ the ground instead of starting
+a foot or two below the surface,--a method never to be advised because
+of the risk of injury to the building from the action of frost in the
+soil,--it may be necessary to make the lot evenly level, unless one goes
+to the expense of filling in. A slight slope away from the house-walls
+is always desirable, as it adds vastly to the general effect. Enough
+soil to secure this slope will not cost a great deal, if it does not
+happen to be at hand, and one will never regret the outlay.
+
+If the ground is very uneven, it is well to have it ploughed, and
+afterward harrowed to pulverize the soil and secure a comparatively
+level surface. Do not be satisfied with one harrowing. Go over it again
+and again until not a lump or clod remains in it. The finer the soil is
+before seed is sown the better will be the sward you grow on it.
+
+If the surface of the yard is _not_ uneven, all the grading necessary
+can be done by spading up the soil to the depth of a foot, and then
+working it over thoroughly with, first, a heavy hoe to break apart the
+lumps, and then an iron rake to pulverize it.
+
+I say nothing about drainage because not one lot-owner in a hundred can
+be prevailed on to go to the trouble and expense of arranging for it. If
+I were to devote a dozen pages to this phase of the work, urging that it
+be given careful attention, my advice would be ignored. The matter of
+drainage frightens the home-maker out of undertaking the improvement of
+the yard, nine times out of ten, if you urge its importance upon him. If
+the location is a rather low one, however, it is a matter that ought not
+to be overlooked, but it is not so important if the lot is high enough
+for water to run off speedily after a shower. If any system of drainage
+_is_ arranged for, I would advise turning the work over to the
+professionals, who thoroughly understand what ought to be done and how
+to do it. This is a matter in which the amateur must work to a
+disadvantage when he undertakes to do it for himself.
+
+If there are hollows and depressions, fill them by levelling little
+hummocks which may be found on other parts of the ground, or by having
+soil drawn in from outside. In filling low places, beat the soil down
+solidly as you add it. Unless this is done--and done well--the soil you
+add will settle, after a little, and the result will be a
+depression--not as deep as the original one, of course, but still a
+depression that will make a low place that will be very noticeable. But
+by packing and pounding down the earth as you fill it in, it can be made
+as solid as the soil surrounding it, and in this way all present and
+future unevenness of the soil can be done away with. It is attention to
+such details as these that makes a success of the work, and I would urge
+upon the amateur lawn-maker the absolute necessity of working slowly and
+carefully, and slighting nothing. Undue haste and the lack of
+thoroughness will result in a slovenly job that you will be ashamed of,
+before it is done, and so disgusted with, on completion, that you will
+not feel like doing the work over again for fear another effort may be
+more unsatisfactory than the first one. Therefore do good work in every
+respect as you go along, and the work you do will be its own reward when
+done.
+
+It is impossible to put too much work on the soil. That is--you cannot
+make it too fine and mellow. The finer it is the finer the sward will
+be. A coarse, lumpy soil will always make an unsatisfactory
+lawn-surface.
+
+Most soils will need the addition of considerable manure, and poor ones
+will need a good deal. To secure a strong, luxuriant stand of grass it
+is very essential that it should be fed well. While grass will grow
+almost anywhere, it is only on rich soils that you see it in perfection,
+and the ideal lawn demands a sward as nearly perfect as possible.
+
+But I would not advise the use of barnyard manure, for this reason: It
+contains the seeds of the very weeds you must keep out of your lawn if
+you would have it what it ought to be,--weeds that will eventually ruin
+everything if not got rid of, like Dandelion, Burdock, and Thistle, to
+say nothing of the smaller plants that are harder to fight than those I
+have made mention of. We cannot be too careful in guarding against these
+trespassers which can be _kept_ out much easier than they can be put to
+rout after they have secured a foothold. Therefore I would urge the
+substitution of a commercial fertilizer for barnyard manure in every
+instance. Scatter it liberally over the soil as soon as spaded, or
+ploughed, and work it in with the harrow or the hoe or rake, when you
+are doing the work of pulverization.
+
+If you do not understand just what kind of fertilizer to make use of,
+tell the dealer as nearly as you can the nature of the soil you propose
+to use it on, and he will doubtless be able to supply you with the
+article you require. It is always safe to trust to the judgment of the
+man who knows just what a fertilizer will do, as to the kind and
+quantity to make use of. Soils differ so widely that it is not possible
+to advise a fertilizer that will give satisfaction everywhere. This
+being the case, I advise you to consult local authorities who understand
+the adaptation of fertilizers to soils before making a choice.
+
+April is a good month in which to seed the lawn. So is May, for that
+matter, but the sooner the grass gets a start the better, for early
+starting will put it in better condition to withstand the effects of
+midsummer heat because it will have more and stronger roots than
+later-sown grass can have by the time a demand is made upon its
+vitality.
+
+Sowing lawn-grass seed evenly is an undertaking that most amateurs fail
+in. The seed is light as chaff, and every puff of wind, no matter how
+light, will carry it far and wide. Choose a still day, if possible, for
+sowing, and cross-sow. That is--sow from north to south, and then from
+east to west. In this way you will probably be able to get the seed
+quite evenly distributed. Hold the hand close to the ground, filled
+with seed, and then, as you make a circular motion from right to left,
+and back again, let the seed slip from between your fingers as evenly as
+possible. A little experimenting along this line will enable you to do
+quite satisfactory work. You may use up a good deal of seed in
+experimenting, but that will not matter. One common mistake in
+lawn-making is to use too little seed. A thinly-seeded lawn will not
+give you a good sward the first season, but a thickly-seeded one will.
+In fact, it will have that velvety look which is one of the chief charms
+of any lawn, after its first mowing. I would advise you to tell the
+dealer of whom you purchase seed the size of your lot, and let him
+decide on the quantity of seed required to make a good job of it.
+
+In buying seed get only the very best on the market. But only of
+reliable dealers. By "reliable dealers" I mean such firms as have
+established a reputation for honesty and fair dealing all along the
+line. Such dealers have to live up to their reputations, and they will
+not work off upon you an inferior article as the dealer who has, as yet,
+no reputation to live up to may, and often does, charging you for it a
+price equal to, or beyond, that which the honest dealer would ask for
+his superior grade of seed. In order to have a fine sward it is
+absolutely necessary that you must have good seed. Cheap seed--and that
+means _poor_ seed, _always_--does not contain the varieties of grasses
+necessary to the making of a rich, deep, velvety sward, and it almost
+always _does_ contain the seeds of noxious weeds which will make your
+lawn a failure. Therefore patronize the dealers in whose honesty you
+have ample reason to have entire confidence, and buy the very best seed
+they have in stock.
+
+After sowing, roll the surface of the lawn to imbed the seed in the
+soil, and make the ground firm enough about it to retain sufficient
+moisture to insure germination. In three or four days the tiny blades
+ought to begin to show. In a week the surface will seem covered with a
+green mist, and in a fortnight's time you will be able to see, with a
+little exercise of the imagination, the kind of lawn you are going to
+have. If the season is a dry one it may be well to sprinkle the soil
+every day, after sundown. Use water liberally, and keep on doing so
+until rain comes or the plants have taken hold of the moister soil below
+with their delicate feeding-roots.
+
+I would not advise mowing until the grass is at least three inches high.
+Then clip lightly with a sharp-bladed mower. Just cut away the top of
+the grass. To mow close, while the grass is getting a start, is the
+worst thing you can do. When it begins to thicken up by stooling out,
+then, and not _till_ then, will you be warranted in setting the mower so
+that it will cut closely. But never _shear_ the sward, as some do. You
+will never have a turf like velvet if you do that. Let there be an inch
+and a half or two inches of the grass-blade left.
+
+The importance of having good tools to work with, in taking care of the
+lawn, ought not to be overlooked. A mower whose blades are dull will
+_tear_ the grass off, and make it look ragged, as if gnawed away by
+animals feeding on it, while the mower whose blades are of the proper
+sharpness will cut it as evenly and as neatly as if a razor had been
+applied to it. You cannot appreciate the difference until you have seen
+a specimen of each, and compared them.
+
+Some persons advocate raking the lawn after each mowing. Others advise
+leaving the clippings to act as a sort of mulch. If the clippings are
+allowed to remain, they wilt, and this will detract from the appearance
+of the sward for a short time, but by the next day they will not be
+noticeable. Raking as soon as mowed makes the lawn more immediately
+presentable. I have never been able to see any great deal of difference
+in the two methods, except as to appearance, therefore I would advise
+the lawn-owner to try both methods and adopt the one that pleases him
+most. If a rake is used, let it be one with blunt teeth that will not
+tear the sward. There is such a rake on the market, its teeth being made
+of bent wire. On no account use a sharp-toothed iron rake. That is sure
+to injure the sward.
+
+Be regular in your attention to the lawn. Do not let the grass get so
+tall that the mower will not do a good job in cutting it. This
+necessitates mowing at regular intervals. If you mow only once a week, I
+would advise the use of the rake, as long grass-clippings are always
+unsightly because they remain on top of the sward, while short clippings
+from frequent mowing sink into it, and are soon out of sight.
+
+In case the lawn is neglected for a week or more, once going over it
+with the mower will not make it very presentable. Mow, and then rake,
+and then go over it again, cutting _across_ the first swaths. The second
+cutting will result in an even surface, but it will not be as
+satisfactory as that secured by _regular_ mowings, at intervals of two
+or three days.
+
+It is a most excellent plan to scatter bonemeal over the surface of the
+lawn in midsummer, and again in fall. Use the fine meal, as the coarse
+article is not readily assimilated by the soil. There is little danger
+of using enough to injure the sward. Injury generally results from not
+using any.
+
+Many lawn-owners, with a mistaken idea of neatness, rake up the leaves
+that scatter themselves over the sward in fall, thus removing the
+protection that Nature has provided for the grass. Do not do this. Allow
+them to remain all winter. They will be entirely hidden by the snow, if
+any falls, and if there is none they are not unsightly, when you cease
+to think of them as litter. You will appreciate the difference between a
+fall-raked lawn and one on which leaves have been allowed to remain over
+winter, when spring comes. The lawn without protection will have a
+brown, scorched look, while the other will begin to show varying tints
+of green as soon as the snow melts. Grass is hardy, and requires no
+protection to prevent winter-killing, but a covering, though slight,
+saves enough of its vitality to make it well worth while to provide it.
+
+The ideal lawn is one in which no weeds are found. But I have never seen
+such a lawn, and never expect to. It is possible to keep weeds from
+showing much if one has a thick, fine sward, but keen eyes will discover
+them without much trouble. Regular and careful mowings will keep them
+within bounds, and when the leaves of large-foliaged plants like the
+Burdock and Thistle are not allowed to develop they do not do a great
+deal of harm except in the drain they make upon the soil. Generally,
+after repeated discouragements of their efforts to assert themselves,
+they pine away and finally disappear. But there will be others always
+coming to take their places, especially in the country, and their
+kindred growing in the pastures and by the roadside will ripen seed each
+season to be scattered broadcast by the wind. This being the case, the
+impossibility of entirely freeing a lawn from weeds by uprooting them or
+cutting them off will be readily apparent. One would have to spend all
+his time in warfare against them, on even a small lawn, if he were to
+set out to keep them from growing there. Therefore about all one can do
+to prevent large weeds from becoming unsightly is to constantly curb
+their aspirations by mowing them down as soon as they reach a given
+height.
+
+The Dandelion and the Plantain are probably the worst pests of all,
+because their seeds fill the air when they ripen, and settle here,
+there, and everywhere, and wherever they come in contact with the ground
+they germinate, and a colony of young plants establishes itself. Because
+the Burdock and Thistle attempt to develop an up-reaching top it is an
+easy matter to keep them down by mowing, but the Dandelion and Plantain
+hug the soil so closely that the mower slips over them without coming in
+contact with their crowns, and so they live on, and on, and spread by a
+multiplication of their roots until they often gain entire possession of
+the soil, in spots. When this happens, the best thing to do is to spade
+up the patch, and rake every weed-root out of it, and then reseed it. If
+this is done early in spring the newly-seeded place will not be
+noticeable by midsummer.
+
+We frequently see weed-killers advertised in the catalogues of the
+florist. Most, if not all, of them will do all that is claimed for them,
+but--they will do just as deadly work on the grass, if they get to it,
+as they do on the weed, therefore they are of no practical use, as it is
+impossible to apply them to weeds without their coming in contact with
+the sward.
+
+Ants often do great damage to the lawn by burrowing under the sward and
+throwing up great hummocks of loose soil, thus killing out large
+patches of grass where they come to the surface. It is a somewhat
+difficult matter to dislodge them, but it can sometimes be done by
+covering the places where they work with powdered borax to the depth of
+half an inch, and then applying water to carry it down into the soil.
+Repeat the operation if necessary. Florists advertise liquids which are
+claimed to do this work effectively, but I have had no occasion to test
+them, as the borax application has never failed to rout the ant on my
+lawn, and when I find a remedy that does its work well I depend upon it,
+rather than experiment with something of whose merits I know nothing.
+"Prove all things and hold fast to that which is good."
+
+Fighting the ant is an easier matter than exterminating weeds, as
+ant-hills are generally localized, and it is possible to get at them
+without injuring a large amount of sward as one cannot help doing when
+he applies liquids to weeds. The probabilities are, however, that ants
+cannot be entirely driven away from the lawn after they have taken
+possession of it. They will shift their quarters and begin again
+elsewhere. But you can keep them on the run by repeated applications of
+whatever proves obnoxious to them, and in this way you can prevent
+their doing a great deal of harm. To be successful in this you will have
+to be constantly on the lookout for them, and so prompt in the use of
+the weapons you employ against them that they are prevented from
+becoming thoroughly established in new quarters.
+
+
+
+
+PLANTING THE LAWN
+
+
+When the lawn is made we begin to puzzle over the planting of trees and
+shrubbery.
+
+What shall we have?
+
+Where shall we have it?
+
+One of the commonest mistakes made by the man who is his own gardener is
+that of over-planting the home-grounds with trees and shrubs. This
+mistake is made because he does not look ahead and see, with the mind's
+eye, what the result will be, a few years from now, of the work he does
+to-day.
+
+[Illustration: IVY, CLIMBING ROSES, AND COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE]
+
+The sapling of to-day will in a short time become a tree of good size,
+and the bush that seems hardly worth considering at present will develop
+into a shrub three, four, perhaps six feet across. If we plant closely,
+as we are all inclined to because of the small size of the material we
+use at planting time, we will soon have a thicket, and it will be
+necessary to sacrifice most of the shrubs in order to give the few we
+leave sufficient room to develop in. Therefore do not think, when you
+set out plants, of their _present_ size, but of the size they will have
+attained to five or six years from now. Do not aim at immediate effect,
+as most of us do in our impatience for results. Be content to
+_plant_--and _wait_. I shall give no diagrams for lawn-planting for two
+reasons. The first one is--no two places are exactly alike, and a
+diagram prepared for one would have to be so modified in order to adapt
+it to the needs of the other that it would be of little value, save in
+the way of suggestion, and I think suggestions of a general character
+_without the diagram_ will be found most satisfactory. The second reason
+is--few persons would care to duplicate the grounds of his neighbor, and
+this he would be obliged to do if diagrams were depended on. Therefore I
+advise each home-owner to plant his lawn after plans of his own
+preparation, after having given careful consideration to the matter.
+Look about you. Visit the lawns your neighbors have made, and discover
+wherein they have made mistakes. Note wherein they have been successful.
+And then profit by their experience, be it that of success or failure.
+
+Do not make the mistake of planting trees and shrubs in front of the
+house, or between it and the street. Place them somewhere to the side,
+or the rear, and leave a clear, open sweep of lawn in front of the
+dwelling. Enough unbroken space should be left there to give the sense
+of breadth which will act as a division between the public and the
+private. Scatter shrubs and flower-beds over the lawn and you destroy
+that impression of distance which is given by even a small lawn when
+there is nothing on it to interfere with the vision, as we look across
+it.
+
+Relegate shrubs to the sides of the lot, if you can conveniently do so,
+being careful to give the larger ones locations at the point farthest
+from the street, graduating them toward the front of the lot according
+to their habit of growth. Aim to secure a background by keeping the big
+fellows where they cannot interfere with the outlook of the little ones.
+
+If paths are to be made, think well before deciding where they shall be.
+Some persons prefer a straight path from the street to the house. This
+saves steps, but it gives the place a prim and formal look that is never
+pleasing. It divides the yard into two sections of equal importance,
+where it is advisable to have but one if we would make the most of
+things. In other words, it halves things, thus weakening the general
+effect greatly. A straight path is never a graceful one. A curving
+path will make you a few more steps, but so much will be gained by it,
+in beauty, that I feel sure you will congratulate yourself on having
+chosen it, after you have compared it with the straight path of your
+neighbor. It will allow you to leave the greater share of the small lawn
+intact, thus securing the impression of breadth that is so necessary to
+the best effect.
+
+[Illustration: A BIT OF INFORMAL BORDER]
+
+I have spoken of planting shrubs at the sides of the home-lot. If this
+is done, we secure a sort of frame for the home-picture that will be
+extremely pleasing. If the shrubs near the street are small and low, and
+those beyond them increase in breadth and height as they approach the
+rear of the lot, with evergreens or trees as a background for the
+dwelling, the effect will be delightful. Such a general plan of planting
+the home-grounds is easily carried out. The most important feature of it
+to keep in mind is that of locating your plants in positions that will
+give each one a chance to display its charms to the best effect, and
+this you can easily do if you read the catalogues and familiarize
+yourself with the heights and habits of them.
+
+If your lot adjoins that of a neighbor who has not yet improved his
+home-grounds, I would advise consulting with him, and forming a
+partnership in improvement-work, if possible. If you proceed after a
+plan of your own on your side of the fence, and he does the same on his
+side, there may be a sad lack of harmony in the result. But _if_ you
+talk the matter over together the chances are that you can formulate a
+plan that will be entirely satisfactory to both parties, and result in
+that harmony which is absolutely necessary to effective work. Because,
+you see, both will be working together toward a definite design, while
+without such a partnership of interests each would be working
+independently, and your ideas of the fitness of things might be sadly at
+variance with those of your neighbor.
+
+Never set your plants in rows. Nature never does that, and she doesn't
+make any mistakes. If you want an object-lesson in arrangement, go into
+the fields and pastures, and along the road, and note how she has
+arranged the shrubs she has planted there. Here a group, there a group,
+in a manner that seems to have had no plan back of it, and yet I feel
+quite sure she planned out very carefully every one of these clumps and
+combinations. The closer you study Nature's methods and pattern after
+them the nearer you will come to success.
+
+Avoid formality as you would the plague if you want your garden to
+afford you all the pleasure you can get out of it. Nature's methods are
+always restful in effect because they are so simple and direct. They
+never seem premeditated. Her plants "just grow," like the Topsy of Mrs.
+Stowe's book, and no one seems to have given any thought to the matter.
+But in order to successfully imitate Nature it is absolutely necessary
+that we familiarize ourselves, as I have said, with her ways of doing
+things, and we can only do this by studying from her books as she opens
+them for us in every field, and by the roadside, and the woodland nook.
+The secret of success, in a word, lies in getting so close to the heart
+of Nature that she will take us into her confidence and tell us some of
+her secrets.
+
+One of the best trees for the small lawn is the Cut-Leaved Birch. It
+grows rapidly, is always attractive, and does not outgrow the limit of
+the ordinary lot. Its habit is grace itself. Its white-barked trunk,
+slender, pendant branches, and finely-cut foliage never fail to
+challenge admiration. In fall it takes on a coloring of pale gold, and
+is more attractive than ever. In winter its delicate branches show
+against a background of blue sky with all the delicacy and distinctness
+of an etching. No tree that I know of is hardier.
+
+The Mountain Ash deserves a place on all lawns, large or small. Its
+foliage is very attractive, as are its great clusters of white flowers
+in spring. When its fruit ripens, the tree is as showy as anything can
+well be. And, like the Cut-Leaved Birch, it is ironclad in its
+hardiness. It is an almost ideal tree for small places.
+
+The Japanese Maples are beautiful trees, of medium size, very graceful
+in habit, and rapid growers. While not as desirable for a street tree as
+our native Maple, they will give better satisfaction on the lawn.
+
+The Purple-Leaved Beech is exceedingly showy, and deserves a place on
+every lawn, large or small. In spring its foliage is a deep purple. In
+summer it takes on a crimson tinge, and in fall it colors up like
+bronze. It branches close to the ground, and should never be pruned to
+form a head several feet from the ground, like most other trees. Such
+treatment will mar, if not spoil, the attractiveness of it.
+
+Betchel's Crab, which grows to be of medium size, is one of the
+loveliest things imaginable when in bloom. Its flowers, which are
+double, are of a delicate pink, with a most delicious fragrance.
+
+The White-Flowering Dogwood (_Cornus florida_) will give excellent
+results wherever planted. Its white blossoms are produced in great
+abundance early in spring--before its leaves are out, in fact--and last
+for a long time. Its foliage is a gray-green, glossy and handsome in
+summer, and in fall a deep, rich red, making it a wonderfully attractive
+object at that season.
+
+The Judas Tree (Redbud) never grows to be large. Its lovely pink
+blossoms appear in spring before its heart-shaped leaves are developed.
+Very desirable.
+
+Salisburia (Maiden-Hair). This is an elegant little tree from Japan. Its
+foliage is almost fern-like in its delicacy. It is a free grower, and in
+every respect desirable.
+
+Among our larger trees that are well adapted to use about the house, the
+Elm is the most graceful. It is the poet of the forest, with its
+wide-spreading, drooping branches, its beautiful foliage, and grace in
+every aspect of its stately form.
+
+As a street-tree the Maple is unexcelled. It is of rapid growth,
+entirely hardy anywhere at the north, requires very little attention in
+the way of pruning, is never troubled by insects, and has the merit of
+great cleanliness. It is equally valuable for the lawn. In fall, it
+changes its summer-green for purest gold, and is a thing of beauty
+until it loses its last leaf.
+
+The Laurel-Leaved Willow is very desirable where quick results are
+wanted. Its branches frequently make a growth of five and six feet in a
+season. Its leaves are shaped like those of the European Laurel,--hence
+its specific name,--with a glossy, dark-green surface. It is probably
+the most rapid grower of all desirable lawn trees. Planted along the
+roadside it will be found far more satisfactory than the Lombardy Poplar
+which is grown so extensively, but which is never pleasing after the
+first few years of its life, because of its habit of dying off at the
+top.
+
+The Box Elder (Ash-Leaved Maple) is another tree of very rapid growth.
+It has handsome light-green foliage, and a head of spreading and
+irregular shape when left to its own devices, but it can be made into
+quite a dignified tree with a little attention in the way of pruning. I
+like it best, however, when allowed to train itself, though this would
+not be satisfactory where the tree is planted along the street. It will
+grow anywhere, is hardy enough to stand the severest climate, and is of
+such rapid development that the first thing you know the little sapling
+you set out is large enough to bear seed.
+
+I like the idea of giving each home a background of evergreens. This for
+two reasons--to bring out the distinctive features of the place more
+effectively than it is possible to without such a background, and to
+serve as a wind-break. If planted at the rear of the house, they answer
+an excellent purpose in shutting away the view of buildings that are
+seldom sightly. The best variety for home-use, all things considered, is
+the Norway Spruce. This grows to be a stately tree of pyramidal habit,
+perfect in form, with heavy, slightly pendulous branches from the ground
+up. Never touch it with the pruning-shears unless you want to spoil it.
+The Colorado Blue Spruce is another excellent variety for general
+planting, with rich, blue-green foliage. It is a free-grower, and
+perfectly hardy. The Douglas Spruce has foliage somewhat resembling that
+of the Hemlock. Its habit of growth is that of a cone, with light and
+graceful spreading branches that give it a much more open and airy
+effect than is found in other Spruces. The Hemlock Spruce is a most
+desirable variety for lawn use where a single specimen is wanted. Give
+it plenty of room in which to stretch out its slender, graceful branches
+and I think it will please you more than any other evergreen you can
+select.
+
+It must not be inferred that the list of trees of which mention has been
+made includes _all_ that are desirable for planting about the home.
+There are others of great merit, and many might prefer them to the kinds
+I have spoken of. I have made special mention of these because I know
+they will prove satisfactory under such conditions as ordinarily prevail
+about the home, therefore they are the kinds I would advise the amateur
+gardener to select in order to attain the highest degree of success.
+Give them good soil to grow in, and they will ask very little from you
+in the way of attention. They are trees that anybody can grow, therefore
+trees for everybody.
+
+In planting a tree care must be taken to get it as deep in the ground as
+it was before it was taken from the nursery. If a little deeper no harm
+will be done.
+
+Make the hole in which it is to be planted so large that all its roots
+can be spread out evenly and naturally.
+
+Before putting it in place, go over its roots and cut off the ends of
+all that were severed in taking it up. Use a sharp knife in doing this,
+and make a clean, smooth cut. A callus will form readily if this is
+done, but not if the ends of the large roots are left in a ragged,
+mutilated condition.
+
+[Illustration: SHRUBS ALONG THE DRIVEWAY]
+
+When the trees are received from the nursery they will be wrapped in
+moss and straw, with burlap about the roots. Do not unpack them until
+you are ready to plant them. If you cannot do this as soon as they are
+received, put them in the cellar or some other cool, shady place, and
+pour a pailful of water over the wrapping about the roots. Never unpack
+them and leave their roots exposed to the air for any length of time. If
+they must be unpacked before planting, cover their roots with damp moss,
+wet burlap, old carpet, or blankets,--anything that will protect them
+from the air and from drying out. But--get them into the ground as soon
+as possible.
+
+When the tree is in the hole made for it, cover the roots with fine
+soil, and then settle this down among the roots by jarring the trunk, or
+by churning the tree up and down carefully. After doing this, and
+securing a covering for all the roots, apply a pailful or two of water
+to firm the soil well. I find this more effective than firming the soil
+with the foot, as it prevents the possibility of loose planting.
+
+Then fill the hole with soil, and apply three or four inches of coarse
+manure from the barnyard to serve as a mulch. This keeps the soil moist,
+which is an important item, especially if the season happens to be a
+dry one. If barnyard manure is not obtainable, use leaves, or
+grass-clippings--anything that will shade the soil and retain moisture
+well.
+
+Where shall we plant our trees?
+
+This question is one that we often find it difficult to answer, because
+we are not familiar enough with them to know much about the effect they
+will give after a few years' development. Before deciding on a location
+for them I would advise the home-maker to look about him until he finds
+places where the kinds he proposes to use are growing. Then study the
+effect that is given by them under conditions similar to those which
+prevail on your own grounds. Make a mental transfer of them to the place
+in which you intend to use them. This you can do with the exercise of a
+little imagination. When you see them growing on your own grounds, as
+you can with the mind's eye, you can tell pretty nearly where they ought
+to be planted. You will get more benefit from object-lessons of this
+kind than from books.
+
+On small grounds I would advise keeping them well to the sides of the
+house. If any are planted in front of the house they will be more
+satisfactory if placed nearer the street than the house. They should
+never be near enough to the dwelling to shade it. Sunshine about the
+house is necessary to health as well as cheerfulness.
+
+Trees back of the dwelling are always pleasing. Under no circumstances
+plant them in prim rows, or just so many feet apart. This applies to all
+grounds, large or small, immediately about the house. But if the place
+is large enough to admit of a driveway, a row of evergreens on each side
+of it can be made an attractive feature.
+
+The reader will understand from what I have said that no hard-and-fast
+rules as to where to plant one's trees can be laid down, because of the
+wide difference of conditions under which the planting must be made.
+Each home-owner must decide this matter for himself, but I would urge
+that no decision be made without first familiarizing yourself with the
+effect of whatever trees you select as you can see them growing on the
+grounds of your neighbors.
+
+Do not make the mistake of planting so thickly that a jungle will result
+after a few years. In order to do itself justice, each tree must have
+space enough about it, on all sides, to enable it to display its charms
+fully. This no tree can do when crowded in among others. One or two fine
+large trees with plenty of elbow-room about them will afford vastly
+more satisfaction than a dozen trees that dispute the space with each
+other. Here again is proof of what I have said many times in this book,
+that quality is what pleases rather than quantity.
+
+If any trees are planted in front of the house, choose kinds having a
+high head, so that there will be no obstruction of the outlook from the
+dwelling.
+
+
+
+
+SHRUBS
+
+
+Every yard ought to have its quota of shrubs. They give to it a charm
+which nothing else in the plant-line can supply, because they have a
+greater dignity than the perennial and the annual plant, on account of
+size, and the fact that they are good for many years, with very little
+care, recommends them to the home-maker who cannot give a great deal of
+attention to the garden and the home-grounds. It hardly seems necessary
+to say anything about their beauty. That is one of the things that "goes
+without saying," among those who see, each spring, the glory of the
+Lilacs and the Spireas, and other shrubs which find a place in
+"everybody's garden." On very small ground the larger-growing shrubs
+take the place of trees quite satisfactorily. Indeed, they are
+preferable there, because they are not likely to outgrow the limits
+assigned them, as trees will in time, and they do not make shade enough
+to bring about the unsanitary conditions which are almost always found
+to exist in small places where trees, planted too thickly at first, have
+made a strong development. Shade is a pleasing feature of a place in
+summer, but there is such a thing as having too much of it. We
+frequently see places in which the dwelling is almost entirely hidden by
+a thicket of trees, and examination will be pretty sure to show that the
+house is damp, and the occupants of it unhealthy. Look at the roof and
+you will be quite sure to find the shingles covered with green moss. The
+only remedy for such a condition of things is the thinning out or
+removal of some of the trees, and the admission of sunlight. Shrubs can
+never be charged with producing such a state of things, hence my
+preference for them on lots where there is not much room. Vines can be
+used upon the walls of the dwelling and about the verandas and porches
+in such a way as to give all the shade that is needed, and, with a few
+really fine specimens of shrubs scattered about the grounds, trees will
+not be likely to be missed much.
+
+I would not be understood as discouraging the planting of trees on
+grounds where there is ample space for their development. A fine tree is
+one of the most beautiful things in the world, but it must be given a
+good deal of room, and that is just what cannot be done on the small
+city or village lot. Another argument in favor of shrubs is--they will
+be in their prime a few years after planting, while a tree must have
+years to grow in. And a shrub generally affords considerable pleasure
+from the start, as it will bloom when very small. Many of them bloom the
+first season.
+
+In locating shrubs do not make the mistake of putting them between the
+house and the street, unless for the express purpose of shutting out
+something unsightly either of buildings or thoroughfare. A small lawn
+loses its dignity when broken up by trees, shrubs, or flower-beds. Left
+to itself it imparts a sense of breadth and distance which will make it
+seem larger than it really is. Plant things all over it and this effect
+is destroyed. I have said this same thing in other chapters of this
+book, and I repeat it with a desire to so impress the fact upon the mind
+of the home-maker that he cannot forget it, and make the common mistake
+of locating his shrubbery or his flower-gardens in the front yard.
+
+The best location for shrubs on small lots is that which I have advised
+for hardy plants--along the sides of the lot, or at the rear of it, far
+enough away from the dwelling, if space will permit, to serve as a
+background for it. Of course no hard-and-fast rule can be laid down,
+because lots differ so widely in size and shape, and the houses we build
+on them are seldom found twice in the same place. I am simply advising
+in a general way, and the advice will have to be modified to suit the
+conditions which exist about each home.
+
+Do not set your shrubs out after any formal fashion--just so far apart,
+and in straight rows--as so many do. Formality should be avoided
+whenever possible.
+
+I think you will find the majority of them most satisfactory when
+grouped. That is, several of a kind--or at least of kinds that harmonize
+in general effect--planted so close together that, when well developed,
+they form one large mass of branches and foliage. I do not mean, by
+this, that they should be crowded. Give each one ample space to develop
+in, but let them be near enough to touch, after a little.
+
+If it is proposed to use different kinds in groups, one must make sure
+that he understand the habit of each, or results will be likely to be
+most unsatisfactory. The larger-growing kinds must be given the centre
+or the rear of the group, with smaller kinds at the sides, or in front.
+The season of flowering and the peculiarities of branch and foliage
+should also be given due consideration. If we were to plant a Lilac with
+its stiff and rather formal habit among a lot of Spireas, all slender
+grace and delicate foliage, the effect would be far from pleasing. The
+two shrubs have nothing in common, except beauty, and that is so
+dissimilar that it cannot be made to harmonize. There must be a general
+harmony. This does not mean that there may not be plenty of contrast.
+Contrast and harmony are not contradictory terms, as some may think.
+
+Therefore read up in the catalogues about the shrubs you propose to make
+use of before you give them a permanent place in the yard.
+
+Also, take a look ahead.
+
+The plant you procure from the nursery will be small. So small, indeed,
+that if you leave eight or ten feet between it and the next one you set
+out, it will look so lonesome that it excites your pity, and you may be
+induced to plant another in the unfilled space to keep it company. But
+in doing this you will be making a great mistake. Three or four years
+from now the bushes will have run together to such an extent that each
+plant has lost its individuality. There will be a thicket of branches
+which will constantly interfere with each other's well being, and
+prevent healthy development. If you take the look ahead which I have
+advised, you will anticipate the development of the shrub, and plant for
+the future rather than the immediate present. Be content to let the
+grounds look rather naked for a time. Three or four years will remedy
+that defect. You can plant perennials and annuals between them,
+temporarily, if you want the space filled. It will be understood that
+what has been said in this paragraph applies to _different kinds_ of
+shrubs set as single specimens, and not to those planted on the
+"grouping" system.
+
+In planting shrubs, the rule given for trees applies quite fully. Have
+the hole for them large enough to admit of spreading out their roots
+naturally. You can tell about this by setting the shrub down upon the
+ground after unwrapping it, and watching the way in which it disposes of
+its roots. They will spread out on all sides as they did before the
+plant was taken from the ground. This is what they should be allowed to
+do in their new quarters. Many persons dig what resembles a post-hole
+more than anything else, and crowd the roots of the shrub into it,
+without making any effort to loosen or straighten them out, dump in some
+lumpy soil, trample it down roughly, and call the work done. Done it
+is, after a fashion, but those who love the plants they set out--those
+who want fine shrubs and expect them to grow well from the
+beginning--never plant in that way. Spread the roots out on all sides,
+cover them with fine, mellow soil, settle this into compactness with a
+liberal application of water, then fill up the hole, and cover the
+surface with a mulch of some kind. Treated in this way not one shrub in
+a hundred will fail to grow, if it has good roots. What was said about
+cutting off the ends on injured roots, in the chapter on planting trees,
+applies with equal pertinence here. Also, about keeping the roots
+covered until you are ready to put the plant into the ground. A shrub is
+a tree on a small scale, and should receive the same kind of treatment
+so far as planting goes. These instructions may seem trifling, but they
+are really matters of great importance, as every amateur will find after
+a little experience. A large measure of one's success depends on how
+closely we follow out the little hints and suggestions along these lines
+in the cultivation of all kinds of plants.
+
+Among our best large shrubs, suitable for planting at the rear of the
+lot, or in the back row of a group, is the Lilac. The leading varieties
+will grow to a height of ten or twelve feet, and can be made to take on
+bush form if desired, or can be trained as a small tree. If the bush
+form is preferred, cut off the top of the plant, when small, and allow
+several branches to start from its base. If you prefer a tree, keep the
+plant to one straight stem until it reaches the height where you want
+the head to form. Then cut off its top. Branches will start below. Leave
+only those near the top of the stem. These will develop and form the
+head you want. I consider the Lilac one of our very best shrubs, because
+of its entire hardiness, its rapid development, its early flowering
+habit, its beauty, its fragrance, and the little attention needed by it.
+Keep the soil about it rich, and mow off the suckers that will spring up
+about the parent plant in great numbers each season, and it will ask no
+more of you. The chief objection urged against it is its tendency to
+sucker so freely. If let alone, it will soon become a nuisance, but with
+a little attention this disagreeable habit can be overcome. I keep the
+ground about my plants free from suckers by the use of the lawn-mower.
+They can be cut as easily as grass when young and small.
+
+[Illustration: SNOWBALL]
+
+If there is a more beautiful shrub than the white Lilac I do not know
+what it is. For cut-flower work it is as desirable as the Lily of the
+Valley, which is the only flower I can compare it with in delicate
+beauty, purity, and sweetness.
+
+The Persian is very pleasing for front positions, because of its
+compact, spreading habit, and its slender, graceful manner of branching
+close to the ground. It is a very free bloomer, and a bush five or six
+feet high, and as many feet across, will often have hundreds of
+plume-like tufts of bloom, of a dark purple showing a decided violet
+tint.
+
+The double varieties are lovely beyond description. At a little distance
+the difference between the doubles and singles will not be very
+noticeable, but at close range the beauty of the former will be
+apparent. Their extra petals give them an airy grace, a feathery
+lightness, which the shorter-spiked kinds do not have. By all means have
+a rosy-purple double variety, and a double white. No garden that lives
+up to its privileges will be without them. If I could have but one
+shrub, I think my choice would be a white Lilac.
+
+Another shrub of tall and stately habit is the old Snowball. When well
+grown, few shrubs can surpass it in beauty. Its great balls of bloom are
+composed of scores of individually small flowers, and they are borne in
+such profusion that the branches often bend beneath their weight. Of
+late years there has been widespread complaint of failure with this
+plant, because of the attack of aphides. These little green plant-lice
+locate themselves on the underside of the tender foliage, before it is
+fully developed, and cause it to curl in an unsightly way. The harm is
+done by these pests sucking the juices from the leaf. I have had no
+difficulty in preventing them from injuring my bushes since I began the
+use of the insecticide sold by the florists under the name of
+Nicoticide. If this is applied as directed on the can in which it is put
+up, two or three applications will entirely rid the plant of the
+insects, and they will not return after being driven away by anything as
+disagreeable to them as a nicotine extract. Great care must be taken to
+see that the application gets to the underside of the foliage where the
+pests will establish themselves. This is a matter of the greatest
+importance, for, in order to rout them, it is absolutely necessary that
+you get the nicotine _where they are_. Simply sprinkling it over the
+bush will do very little good.
+
+The Spirea is one of the loveliest of all shrubs. Its flowers are
+exquisite in their daintiness, and so freely produced that the bush is
+literally covered with them. And the habit of the bush is grace itself,
+and this without any attention whatever from you in the way of training.
+In fact, attempt to train a Spirea and the chances are that you will
+spoil it. Let it do its own training, and the result will be all that
+you or any one else could ask for. There are several varieties, as you
+will see when you consult the dealers' catalogues. Some are double, some
+single, some white, some pink. Among the most desirable for general
+culture I would name _Van Houteii_, a veritable fountain of pure white
+blossoms in May and June, _Prunifolia_, better known as "Bridal Wreath,"
+with double white flowers, _Billardi_, pink, and _Fortunei_, delicate,
+bright rose-color.
+
+The Spireas are excellent shrubs for grouping, especially when the white
+and pink varieties are used together. This shrub is very hardy, and of
+the easiest culture, and I can recommend it to the amateur, feeling
+confident that it will never fail to please.
+
+Quite as popular as the Spirea is the Deutzia, throughout the middle
+section of the northern states. Farther north it is likely to
+winter-kill badly. That is, many of its branches will be injured to such
+an extent that they will have to be cut away to within a foot or two of
+the ground, thus interfering with a free production of flowers. The
+blossoms of this shrub are of a tasselly bell-shape, produced thickly
+all along the slender branches, in June. _Candidissima_ is a double
+white, very striking and desirable. _Gracilis_ is the most daintily
+beautiful member of the family, all things considered. _Discolor
+grandiflora_ is a variety with large double blossoms, tinted with pink
+on the reverse of the petals.
+
+The Weigelia is a lovely shrub. There are white, pink, and carmine
+varieties. The flowers, which are trumpet-shaped, are borne in spikes in
+which bloom and foliage are so delightfully mixed that the result is a
+spray of great beauty. A strong plant will be a solid mass of color for
+weeks.
+
+An excellent, low-growing, early flowering shrub is _Pyrus Japonica_,
+better known as Japan Quince. It is one of our earliest bloomers. Its
+flowers are of the most intense, fiery scarlet. This is one of our best
+plants for front rows in the shrubbery, and is often used as a low
+hedge.
+
+[Illustration: AMERICAN IVY AND GERANIUMS]
+
+One of our loveliest little shrubs is Daphne _Cneorum_, oftener known as
+the "Garland Flower." Its blossoms are borne in small clusters at the
+extremity of the stalks. They are a soft pink, and very sweet. The habit
+of the plant is low and spreading. While this is not as showy as many of
+our shrubs, it is one that will win your friendship, because of its
+modest beauty, and will keep a place in your garden indefinitely after
+it has once been given a place there.
+
+Berberis--the "Barberry" of "Grandmother's garden"--is a most
+satisfactory shrub, for several reasons: It is hardy everywhere. The
+white, yellow, and orange flowers of the different varieties are showy
+in spring; in fall the foliage colors finely; and through the greater
+part of winter the scarlet, blue and black berries are extremely
+pleasing. _Thunbergii_ is a dwarf variety, with yellow flowers, followed
+by vivid scarlet fruit. In autumn, the foliage changes to scarlet and
+gold, and makes the bush as attractive as if covered with flowers. This
+is an excellent variety for a low hedge.
+
+Exochorda _grandiflora_, better known as "Pearl Bush," is one of the
+most distinctively ornamental shrubs in cultivation. It grows to a
+height of seven to ten feet, and can be pruned to almost any desirable
+shape. The buds, which come early in the season, look like pearls
+strung on fine green threads--hence the popular name of the plant--and
+these open into flowers of the purest white. A fine shrub for the
+background of a border.
+
+Forsythia is a splendid old shrub growing to a height of eight to ten
+feet. Its flowers appear before its leaves are out, and are of such a
+rich, shining yellow that they light up the garden like a bonfire. The
+flowers are bell-shaped, hence the popular name of the plant, "Golden
+Bell."
+
+Hydrangea _paniculata grandiflora_ is a very general favorite because of
+its great hardiness, profusion of flowers, ease of cultivation, and
+habit of late blooming. It is too well known to need description.
+
+Robinia _hispida_, sometimes called Rose Acacia, is a native species of
+the Locust. It has long, drooping, very lovely clusters of pea-shaped
+flowers of a soft pink color. It will grow in the poorest soil and stand
+more neglect than any other shrub I have knowledge of. But because it
+_can_ do this is no reason why it should be asked to do it. Give it good
+treatment and it will do so much better for you than it possibly can
+under neglect, that it will seem like a new variety of an old plant.
+
+The Flowering Currant is a delightful shrub, and one that anyone can
+grow, and one that will flourish anywhere. It is very pleasing in habit,
+without any attention in the way of training. Its branches spread
+gracefully in all directions from the centre of the bush, and grow to a
+length of six or seven feet. Early in the season they are covered with
+bright yellow flowers of a spicy and delicious fragrance. In fall the
+bush takes on a rich coloring of crimson and gold, and is really much
+showier then than when in bloom, in spring.
+
+Sambucus _aurea_--the Golden Elder--is one of the showiest shrubs in
+cultivation, and its showy feature is its foliage. Let alone, it grows
+to be a very large bush, but judicious pruning keeps it within bounds,
+for small grounds. It makes an excellent background for such brilliantly
+colored flowers as the Dahlia, Salvia _splendens_, or scarlet Geraniums.
+It deserves a place in all collections. Our native Cut-Leaved Elder is
+one of the most beautiful ornaments any place can have. It bears
+enormous cymes of delicate, lace-like, fragrant flowers in June and
+July. These are followed by purple berries, which make the bush as
+attractive as when in bloom.
+
+The Syringa, or Mock Orange, is one of our favorites. It grows to a
+height of eight and ten feet and is therefore well adapted to places in
+the back row, or in the rear of the garden. Its flowers, which are borne
+in great profusion, are a creamy white, and very sweet-scented.
+
+The double-flowered Plum is a most lovely shrub. It blooms early in
+spring, before its leaves are out. Its flowers are very double, and of a
+delicate pink, and are produced in such profusion that the entire plant
+seems under a pink cloud.
+
+Another early bloomer, somewhat similar to the Plum, is the Flowering
+Almond, an old favorite. This, however, is of slender habit, and should
+be given a place in the front row. Its lovely pink-and-white flowers are
+borne all along the gracefully arching stalks, making them look like
+wreaths of bloom that Nature had not finished by fastening them together
+in chaplet form.
+
+It is not to be understood that the list given above includes all the
+desirable varieties of shrubs suited to amateur culture. It does,
+however, include the cream of the list for general-purpose gardening.
+There are many other kinds that are well worth a place in any garden,
+but some of them are inclined to be rather too tender for use at the
+north, without protection, and others require a treatment which they
+will not be likely to get from the amateur gardener, therefore I would
+not advise the beginner in shrub-growing to undertake their culture.
+
+Many an amateur gardener labors under the impression that all shrubs
+must be given an annual pruning. He doesn't know just how he got this
+impression, but--he has it. He looks his shrubs over, and sees no actual
+necessity for the use of the knife, but--pruning must be done, and he
+cuts here, and there, and everywhere, without any definite aim in view,
+simply because he feels that something of the kind is demanded of him.
+This is where a great mistake is made. So long as a shrub is healthy and
+pleasing in shape let it alone. It is not necessary that it should
+present the same appearance from all points of view. That would be to
+make it formal, prim--anything but graceful. Go into the fields and
+forests and take lessons from Nature, the one gardener who makes no
+mistakes. Her shrubs are seldom regular in outline, but they are
+beautiful, all the same, and graceful, every one of them, with a grace
+that is the result of informality and naturalness. Therefore never prune
+a shrub unless it really needs it, and let the need be determined by
+something more than mere lack of uniformity in its development. Much of
+the charm of Nature's workmanship is the result of irregularity which
+never does violence to the laws of symmetry and grace. Study the
+wayside shrub until you discover the secret of it, and apply the
+knowledge thus gained to the management of your home garden.
+
+Shrubs can be set in fall or spring. Some persons will tell you that
+spring planting is preferable, and give you good reasons for their
+preference. Others will advance what seem to be equally good reasons for
+preferring to plant in fall. So far as my experience goes, I see but
+little difference in results.
+
+By planting in spring, you get your shrub into the ground before it
+begins to grow.
+
+By planting in fall, you get it into the ground after it has completed
+its annual growth.
+
+You will have to be governed by circumstances, and do the best you can
+under them, and you will find, I feel quite sure, that good results will
+come from planting at either season.
+
+If you plant in spring, do not defer the work until after your plants
+have begun growing. Do it as soon as the frost is out of the ground.
+
+If in fall, do it as soon as possible after the plant has fully
+completed the growth of the season, and "ripened off," as we say. In
+other words, is in that dormant condition which follows the completion
+of its yearly work. This will be shown by the falling of its leaves.
+
+Never starve a shrub while it is small and young, under the impression
+that, because it is small, it doesn't make much difference how you use
+it. It makes all the difference in the world. Much of its future
+usefulness depends on the treatment it receives at this period. What you
+want to do is to give it a good start. And after it gets well started,
+keep it going steadily ahead. Allow no grass or weeds to grow close to
+it and force it to dispute with them for its share of nutriment in the
+soil about its roots.
+
+It is a good plan to spread a bushel or more of coarse litter about each
+shrub in fall. Not because it needs protection in the sense that a
+tender plant needs it, but because a mulch keeps the frost from working
+harm at its roots, and saves to the plant that amount of vital force
+which it would be obliged to expend upon itself if it were left to take
+care of itself. For it is true that even our hardiest plants suffer a
+good deal in the fight with cold, though they may not seem to be much
+injured by it. Mulch some of them, and leave some of them without a
+mulch, and notice the difference between the two when spring comes. If
+you do this, I feel sure you will give _all_ of them the mulch-treatment
+every season thereafter.
+
+
+
+
+VINES
+
+
+A home without vines is like a home without children--it lacks the very
+thing that ought to be there to make it most delightful and home-like.
+
+A good vine--and we have many such--soon becomes "like one of the
+family." Year after year it continues to develop, covering unsightly
+places with its beauty of leaf and bloom, and hiding defects that can be
+hidden satisfactorily in no other way. All of us have seen houses that
+were positively ugly in appearance before vines were planted about them,
+that became pleasant and attractive as soon as the vines had a chance to
+show what they could do in the way of covering up ugliness.
+
+There are few among our really good vines that will not continue to give
+satisfaction for an indefinite period if given a small amount of
+attention each season. I can think of none that are not better when ten
+or twelve years old than they are two and three years after
+planting--healthier, stronger, like a person who has "got his growth"
+and arrived at that period when all the elements of manhood are fully
+developed. Young vines may be as pleasing as old ones, as far as they
+go, but--the objection is that they do not go far enough. The value of a
+vine depends largely on size, and size depends largely on age. During
+the early stage of a vine's existence it is making promise of future
+grace and beauty, and we must give it plenty of time in which to make
+that promise good. We must also give such care as will make it not only
+possible but easy to fulfil this promise to the fullest extent.
+
+While many vines will live on indefinitely under neglect, they cannot do
+themselves justice under such conditions, as any one will find who
+plants one and leaves it to look out for itself. But be kind to it, show
+it that you care for it and have its welfare at heart, and it will
+surprise and delight you with its rapidity of growth, and the beauty it
+is capable of imparting to everything with which it comes in contact.
+For it seems impossible for a vine to grow anywhere without making
+everything it touches beautiful. It is possessor of the magic which
+transforms plain things into loveliness.
+
+If I were obliged to choose between vines and shrubs--and I am very
+glad that I do not have to do so--I am quite sure I would choose the
+former. I can hardly explain how it is, but we seem to get on more
+intimate terms with a vine than we do with a shrub. Probably it is
+because it grows so close to the dwelling, as a general thing, that we
+come to think of it as a part of the home.
+
+Vines planted close to the house walls often fail to do well, because
+they do not have a good soil to spread their roots in. The soil thrown
+out from the cellar, or in making an excavation for the foundation
+walls, is almost always hard, and deficient in nutriment. In order to
+make it fit for use a liberal amount of sand and loam ought to be added
+to it, and mixed with it so thoroughly that it becomes a practically new
+soil. At the same time manure should be given in generous quantity. If
+this is done, a poor soil can be made over into one that will give most
+excellent results. One application of manure, however, will not be
+sufficient. In one season, a strong, healthy vine will use up all the
+elements of plant-growth, and more should be supplied to meet the
+demands of the following year. In other words, vines should be manured
+each season if they are expected to keep in good health and continue to
+develop. If barnyard manure cannot be obtained, use bonemeal of which I
+so often speak in this book. I consider it the best substitute for
+barnyard fertilizer that I have ever used, for all kinds of plants.
+
+The best, all-round vine for general use, allowing me to be judge, is
+Ampelopsis, better known throughout the country as American Ivy, or
+Virginia Creeper. It is of exceedingly rapid growth, often sending out
+branches twenty feet in length in a season, after it has become well
+established. It clings to stone, wood, or brick, with equal facility,
+and does not often require any support except such as it secures for
+itself. There are two varieties. One has flat, sucker-like discs, which
+hold themselves tightly against whatever surface they come in contact
+with, on the principle of suction. The other has tendrils which clasp
+themselves about anything they can grasp, or force themselves into
+cracks and crevices in such a manner as to furnish all the support the
+vine needs. So far as foliage and general habit goes, there is not much
+difference between these two varieties, but the variety with
+disc-supports colors up most beautifully in fall. The foliage of both is
+very luxuriant. When the green of summer gives way to the scarlet and
+maroon of autumn, the entire plant seems to have changed its leaves for
+flowers, so brilliant is its coloring. There is but one objection to be
+urged against this plant, and that is--its tendency to rampant growth.
+Let it have its way and it will cover windows as well as walls, and
+fling its festoons across doorway and porch. This will have to be
+prevented by clipping away all branches that show an inclination to run
+riot, and take possession of places where no vines are needed. When you
+discover a branch starting out in the wrong direction, cut it off at
+once. A little attention of this kind during the growing period will
+save the trouble of a general pruning later on.
+
+Vines, like children, should be trained while growing if you would have
+them afford satisfaction when grown.
+
+The Ampelopsis will climb to the roof of a two-story house in a short
+time, and throw out its branches freely as it makes its upward growth,
+and this without any training or pruning. Because of its ability to take
+care of itself in these respects, as well as because of its great
+beauty, I do not hesitate to call it the best of all vines for general
+use. It will grow in all soils except clear sand, it is as hardy as it
+is possible for a vine to be, and so far as my experience with it
+goes--and I have grown it for the last twenty years--it has no
+diseases.
+
+[Illustration: HONEYSUCKLE]
+
+For verandas and porches the Honeysuckles will probably afford better
+satisfaction because of their less rampant habit. Also because of the
+beauty and the fragrance of their flowers. Many varieties are all-summer
+bloomers. The best of these are Scarlet Trumpet and _Halleana_. The
+vines can be trained over trellises, or large-meshed wire netting, or
+tacked to posts, as suits the taste of the owner. In whatever manner you
+train them they lend grace and beauty to a porch without shutting off
+the outlook wholly, as their foliage is less plentiful than that of most
+vines. This vine is of rapid development, and so hardy that it requires
+very little attention in the way of protection in winter. The variety
+called Scarlet Trumpet has scarlet and orange flowers. _Halleana_ has
+almost evergreen foliage and cream-white flowers of most delightful
+fragrance. Both can be trained up together with very pleasing effect.
+There are other good sorts, but I consider that these two combine all
+the best features of the entire list, therefore I would advise the
+amateur gardener to concentrate his attention on them instead of
+spreading it out over inferior kinds.
+
+Every lover of flowers who sees the hybrid varieties of Clematis in
+bloom is sure to want to grow them. They are very beautiful, it is true,
+and few plants are more satisfactory when well grown. But--there's the
+rub--to grow them well.
+
+The variety known as _Jackmani_, with dark purple-blue flowers, is most
+likely to succeed under amateur culture, but of late years it has been
+quite unsatisfactory. Plants of it grow well during the early part of
+the season, but all at once blight strikes them, and they wither in a
+day, as if something had attacked the root, and in a short time they are
+dead. This has discouraged the would-be growers of the large-flowered
+varieties--for all of them seem to be subject to the same disease. What
+this disease is no one seems able to say, and, so far, no remedy for it
+has been advanced.
+
+But in Clematis _paniculata_, we have a variety that I consider superior
+in every respect to the large-flowered kinds, and to date no one has
+reported any trouble with it. It is of strong and healthy growth, and
+rampant in its habit, thus making it useful where the large-flowered
+kinds have proved defective, as none of them are of what may be called
+free growth. They grow to a height of seven or eight feet--sometimes
+ten,--but have few branches, and sparse foliage. _Paniculata_, on the
+contrary, makes a very vigorous growth--often twenty feet in a
+season--and its foliage, unlike that of the other varieties, is
+attractive enough in itself to make the plant well worth growing. It is
+a rich, glossy green, and so freely produced that it furnishes a dense
+shade. Late in the season, after most other plants are in "the sere and
+yellow leaf" it is literally covered with great panicles of starry white
+flowers which have a delightful fragrance. While this variety lacks the
+rich color of such varieties as _Jackmani_ and others of the hybrid
+class, it is really far more beautiful. Indeed, I know of no flowering
+vine that can equal it in this respect. Its late-flowering habit adds
+greatly to its value. It is not only healthy, but hardy--a quality no
+one can afford to overlook when planting vines about the house. Like
+Clematis _flammula_, a summer-blooming relative of great value both for
+its beauty and because it is a native, it is likely to die pretty nearly
+to the ground in winter, but, because of rapid growth, this is not much
+of an objection. By the time the flowers of either variety are likely to
+come in for a fair share of appreciation, the vines will have grown to
+good size.
+
+For the middle and southern sections of the northern states the Wistaria
+is a most desirable vine, but at the north it cannot be depended on to
+survive the winter in a condition that will enable it to give a
+satisfactory crop of flowers. Its roots will live, but most of its
+branches will be killed each season.
+
+Ampelopsis _Veitchii_, more commonly known as Boston or Japan Ivy, is a
+charming vine to train over brick and stone walls in localities where it
+is hardy, because of its dense habit of growth. Its foliage is smaller
+than that of the native Ampelopsis, and it is far less rampant in
+growth, though a free grower. It will completely cover the walls of a
+building with its dark green foliage, every shoot clinging so closely
+that a person seeing the plant for the first time would get the idea
+that it had been shorn of all its branches except those adhering to the
+wall. All its branches attach themselves to the wall-surface, thus
+giving an even, uniform effect quite unlike that of other vines which
+throw out branches in all directions, regardless of wall or trellis. In
+autumn this variety takes on a rich coloring that must be seen to be
+fully appreciated.
+
+[Illustration: JAPAN IVY GROWING ON WALL]
+
+Our native Celastrus, popularly known as Bittersweet, is a very
+desirable vine if it can be given something to twine itself about. It
+has neither tendril nor disc, and supports itself by twisting its new
+growth about trees over which it clambers, branches--anything that it
+can wind about. If no other support is to be found it will twist about
+itself in such a manner as to form a great rope of branches. It has
+attractive foliage, but the chief beauty of the vine is its clusters of
+pendant fruit, which hang to the plant well into winter. This fruit is a
+berry of bright crimson, enclosed in an orange shell which cracks open,
+in three pieces, and becomes reflexed, thus disclosing the berry within.
+As these berries grow in clusters of good size, and are very freely
+produced, the effect of a large plant can be imagined. In fall the
+foliage turns to a pure gold, and forms a most pleasing background for
+the scarlet and orange clusters to display themselves against. The plant
+is of extremely rapid growth. It has a habit of spreading rapidly, and
+widely, by sending out underground shoots which come to the surface many
+feet away from the parent plant. These must be kept mowed down or they
+will become a nuisance.
+
+Flower-loving people are often impatient of results, and I am often
+asked what annual I would advise one to make use of, for immediate
+effect, or while the hardy vines are getting a start. I know of nothing
+better, all things considered, than the Morning Glory, of which mention
+will be found elsewhere.
+
+The Flowering Bean is a pretty vine for training up about verandas, but
+does not grow to a sufficient height to make it of much value elsewhere.
+It is fine for covering low trellises or a fence.
+
+The "climbing" Nasturtiums are not really climbers. Rather plants with
+such long and slender branches that they must be given some support to
+keep them from straggling all over the ground. They are very pleasing
+when used to cover fences, low screens, and trellises, or when trained
+along the railing of the veranda.
+
+The Kudzu Vine is of wonderful rapidity of growth, and will be found a
+good substitute for a hardy vine about piazzas and porches.
+
+Aristolochia, or Dutchman's Pipe, is a hardy vine of more than ordinary
+merit. It has large, overlapping leaves that furnish a dense shade, and
+very peculiar flowers--more peculiar, in fact, than beautiful.
+
+Bignonia will give satisfaction south of Chicago, in most localities.
+Where it stands the winter it is a favorite on account of its great
+profusion of orange-scarlet flowers and its pretty, finely-cut foliage.
+Farther north it will live on indefinitely, like the Wistaria, but its
+branches will nearly always be badly killed in winter.
+
+It is a mistake to make use of strips of cloth in fastening vines to
+walls, as so many are in the habit of doing, because the cloth will soon
+rot, and when a strong wind comes along, or after a heavy rain, the
+vines will be torn from their places, and generally it will be found
+impossible to replace them satisfactorily. Cloth and twine may answer
+well enough for annual vines, with the exception of the Morning Glory,
+but vines of heavy growth should be fastened with strips of leather
+passed about the main stalks and nailed to the wall securely. Do not use
+a small tack, as the weight of the vines will often tear it loose from
+the wood. Do not make the leather so tight that it will interfere with
+the circulation of sap in the plant. Allow space for future growth. Some
+persons use iron staples, but I would not advise them as they are sure
+to chafe the branches they are used to support.
+
+The question is often asked if vines are not harmful to the walls over
+which they are trained. I have never found them so. On the contrary, I
+have found walls that had been covered with vines for years in a better
+state of preservation than walls on which no vines had ever been
+trained. The explanation is a simple one: The leaves of the vines act in
+the capacity of shingles, and shed rain, thus keeping it from getting to
+the walls of the building.
+
+But I would not advise training vines over the roof, unless it is
+constructed of slate or some material not injured by dampness, because
+the moisture will get below the foliage, where the sun cannot get at it,
+and long-continued dampness will soon bring on decay.
+
+On account of the difficulty of getting at them, vines are never pruned
+to any great extent, but it would be for the betterment of them if they
+were gone over every year, and all the oldest branches cut away, or
+thinned out enough to admit of a free circulation of air. If this were
+done, the vine would be constantly renewing itself, and most kinds would
+be good for a lifetime. It really is not such a difficult undertaking as
+most people imagine, for by the use of an ordinary ladder one can get at
+most parts of a building, and reach such portions of the vines as need
+attention most.
+
+
+
+
+THE HARDY BORDER
+
+
+The most satisfactory garden of flowering plants for small places, all
+things considered, is one composed of hardy herbaceous perennials and
+biennials.
+
+This for several reasons:
+
+1st.--Once thoroughly established they are good for an indefinite
+period.
+
+2d.--It is not necessary to "make garden" annually, as is the case where
+annuals are depended on.
+
+3d.--They require less care than any other class of plants.
+
+4th.--Requiring less care than other plants, they are admirably adapted
+to the needs of those who can devote only a limited amount of time to
+gardening.
+
+5th.--They include some of the most beautiful plants we have.
+
+6th.--By a judicious selection of kinds it is possible to have flowers
+from them from early in spring till late in fall.
+
+I have no disposition to say disparaging things about the garden of
+annuals. Annuals are very desirable. Some of them are absolutely
+indispensable. But they call for a great deal of labor. It is hard work
+to spade the ground, and make the beds, and sow the seed, and keep the
+weeds down. This work must be done year after year. But with hardy
+plants this is not the case. Considerable labor may be called for, the
+first year, in preparing the ground and setting out the plants, but the
+most of the work done among them, after that, can be done with the hoe,
+and it will take so little time to do it that you will wonder how you
+ever came to think annuals the only plants for the flower-garden of busy
+people. That this _is_ what a great many persons think is true, but it
+is because they have not had sufficient experience with hardy plants to
+fully understand their merits, and the small amount of care they
+require. A season's experience will convince them of their mistake.
+
+[Illustration: SHRUBS AND PERENNIALS COMBINED IN BORDER]
+
+In preparing the ground for the reception of these plants, spade it up
+to the depth of a foot and a half, at least, and work into it a liberal
+amount of good manure, or some commercial fertilizer that will take the
+place of manure from the barnyard or cow-stable. Most perennials and
+herbaceous plants will do fairly well in a soil of only moderate
+richness, but they cannot do themselves justice in it. They ought not to
+be expected to. To secure the best results from them--and you ought to
+be satisfied with nothing less--feed them well. Give them a good start,
+at the time of planting, and keep them up to a high standard of vitality
+by liberal feeding, and they will surprise and delight you with the
+profusion and beauty of their bloom.
+
+Perennials will not bloom till the second year from seed. Therefore, if
+you want flowers from them the first season, it will be necessary for
+you to purchase last season's seedlings from the florist.
+
+In most neighborhoods one can secure enough material to stock the border
+from friends who have old plants that need to be divided, or by
+exchanging varieties.
+
+But if you want plants of any particular color, or of a certain variety,
+you will do well to give your order to a dealer. In most gardens five or
+six years old the original varieties will either have died out or so
+deteriorated that the stock you obtain there will be inferior in many
+respects, therefore not at all satisfactory to one who is inclined to be
+satisfied with nothing but the best. The "best" is what the dealer will
+send you if you patronize one who has established a reputation for
+honesty.
+
+The impression prevails, to a great extent, that perennials bloom only
+for a very short time in the early part of the season. This is a
+mistake. If you select your plants with a view to the prolongation of
+the flowering period, you can have flowers throughout the season from
+this class of plants. Of course not all of them will bloom at the same
+time. I would not be understood as meaning that. But what I do mean
+is--that by choosing for a succession of bloom it is possible to secure
+kinds whose flowering periods will meet and overlap each other in such a
+manner that some of them will be in bloom most of the time. Many kinds
+bloom long before the earliest annuals are ready to begin the work of
+the season. Others are in their prime at midsummer, and later ones will
+give flowers until frost comes. If you read up the catalogues and
+familiarize yourself with the habits of the plants which the dealer
+offers for sale, you can make a selection that will keep the garden gay
+from May to November.
+
+On the ordinary home-lot there is not much choice allowed as to the
+location of the border. It must go to the sides of the lot if it starts
+in front of the house, or it may be located at the rear of the
+dwelling. On most grounds it will, after a little, occupy both of these
+positions, for it will outgrow its early limitations in a few years. You
+will be constantly adding to it, and thus it comes about that the border
+that _begins_ on each side of the lot will overflow to the rear.
+
+I would never advise locating it in front of the dwelling. Leave the
+lawn unbroken there. While there is not much opportunity for "effect" on
+small grounds, a departure from straight lines can always be made, and
+formality and primness be avoided to a considerable degree. Let the
+inner edge of the border curve, as shown in the illustration
+accompanying this chapter, and the result will be a hundredfold more
+pleasing than it would be if it were a straight line. Curves are always
+graceful, and indentations here and there enable you to secure new
+points of view that add vastly to the general effect. They make the
+border seem larger than it really is because only a portion of it is
+seen at the same time, as would not be the case if it were made up of
+straight rows of plants, with the same width throughout.
+
+By planting low-growing kinds in front, and backing them up with kinds
+of a taller growth, with the very tallest growers in the rear, the
+effect of a bank of flowers and foliage can be secured. This the
+illustration clearly shows.
+
+Shrubbery can be used in connection with perennials with most
+satisfactory results. This, as the reader will see, was done on the
+grounds from which the picture was taken. Here we have a combination
+which cannot fail to afford pleasure. I would not advise any home-maker
+to confine his border to plants of one class. Use shrubs and perennials
+together, and scatter annuals here and there, and have bulbs all along
+the border's edge.
+
+I want to call particular attention to one thing which the picture under
+consideration emphasizes very forcibly, and that is--the unstudied
+informality of it. It seems to have planned itself. It is like one of
+Nature's fence-corner bits of gardening.
+
+For use in the background we have several most excellent plants. The
+Delphinium--Larkspur--grows to a height of seven or eight feet, in rich
+soil, sending up a score or more of stout stalks from each strong clump
+of roots. Two or three feet of the upper part of these stalks will be
+solid with a mass of flowers of the richest, most intense blue
+imaginable. I know of no other flower of so deep and striking a shade
+of this rather rare color in the garden. In order to guard against
+injury from strong winds, stout stakes should be set about each clump,
+and wound with wire or substantial cord to prevent the flowering stalks
+from being broken down. There is a white variety, _Chinensis_, that is
+most effective when used in combination with the blue, which you will
+find catalogued as Delphinium _formosum_. If several strong clumps are
+grouped together, the effect will be magnificent when the plants are in
+full bloom. By cutting away the old stalks as soon as they have
+developed all their flowers, new ones can be coaxed to grow, and under
+this treatment the plants can be kept in bloom for many weeks.
+
+"Golden Glow" Rudbeckia is quite as strong a grower as the Delphinium,
+and a more prolific bloomer does not exist. It will literally cover
+itself with flowers of the richest golden yellow, resembling in shape
+and size those of the "decorative" type of Dahlia. This plant is a very
+strong grower, and so aggressive that it will dispute possession with
+any plant near it, and on this account it should never be given a place
+where it can interfere with choice varieties. Let it have its own way
+and it will crowd out even the grass of the lawn. Its proper place is
+in the extreme background, well to the rear, where distance will lend
+enchantment to the view. It must not be inferred from this that it is
+too coarse a flower to give a front place to. It belongs to the rear
+simply because of its aggressive qualities, and the intense effect of
+its strong, all-pervading color. You do not want a flower in the front
+row that, being given an inch, will straightway insist upon taking an
+ell. This the Rudbeckia will do, every time, if not promptly checked. It
+is an exceedingly valuable plant to cut from, as its flowers last for
+days, and light up a room like a great burst of strong sunshine.
+
+Hollyhocks must have a place in every border. Their stately habit,
+profusion of bloom, wonderful range and richness of color, and
+long-continued flowering period make them indispensable and favorites
+everywhere. They are most effective when grown in large masses or
+groups. If they are prevented from ripening seed, they will bloom
+throughout the greater part of the season. The single varieties are of
+the tallest, stateliest growth, therefore admirably adapted to back rows
+in the border. The double kinds work in well in front of them. These are
+the showiest members of the family because their flowers are so
+thickly set along the stalk that a stronger color-effect is given, but
+they are really no finer than the single sorts, so far as general effect
+is concerned. Indeed, I think I prefer the single kinds because the rich
+and peculiar markings of the individual flower show to much better
+advantage in them than in the doubles, whose multiplicity of petals
+hides this very pleasing variegation. But I would not care to go without
+either kind.
+
+[Illustration: OLD-FASHIONED HOLLYHOCKS]
+
+Coreopsis _lanceolata_ is a very charming plant for front rows,
+especially if it can have a place where it is given the benefit of
+contrast with a white flower, like the Daisy. In such a location its
+rich golden yellow comes out brilliantly, and makes a most effective
+point of color in the border.
+
+Perennial Phlox, all things considered, deserves a place very near to
+the head of the list of our very best hardy plants. Perhaps if a vote
+were taken, it would be elected as leader of its class in point of
+merit. It is so entirely hardy, so sturdy and self-reliant, so
+wonderfully floriferous, and so rich and varied in color that it is
+almost an ideal plant for border-use. It varies greatly in habit. Some
+varieties attain a height of five feet or more. Others are low
+growers,--almost dwarfs, in fact,--therefore well adapted to places
+in the very front row, and close to the path. The majority are of medium
+habit, fitting into the middle rows most effectively. With a little care
+in the selection of varieties--depending on the florists' catalogues to
+give us the height of each--it is an easy matter to arrange the various
+sorts in such a way as to form a bank which will be an almost solid mass
+of flowers for weeks. Some varieties have flowers of the purest white,
+and the colors of others range through many shades of pink, carmine,
+scarlet, and crimson, to lilac, mauve, and magenta. The three colors
+last named must never be planted alongside or near to the other colors,
+with the exception of white, as there can be no harmony between them.
+They make a color-discord so intense as to be positively painful to the
+eye that has keen color-sense. But combine them with the white kinds and
+they are among the loveliest of the lot. This Phlox ought always to be
+grouped, to be most effective, and white varieties should be used
+liberally to serve as a foil to the more brilliant colors and bring out
+their beauty most strikingly.
+
+[Illustration: THE PEONY AT ITS BEST]
+
+Peonies are superb flowers, and no border can afford to be without them.
+The varieties are almost endless, but you cannot have too many of
+them. Use them everywhere. The chances are that you will wish you had
+room for more. They bloom early, are magnificent in color and form, and
+are so prolific that old plants often bear a hundred or more flowers
+each season, and their profusion of bloom increases with age, as the
+plant gains in size. Many varieties are as fragrant as a Rose, and all
+of them are as hardy as a plant can well be. What more need be said in
+their favor?
+
+In order to attain the highest degree of success with the Peony, it
+should be given a rather heavy soil, and manure should be used with
+great liberality. In fact it is hardly possible to make the soil too
+rich to suit it. Disturb the roots as little as possible. The plant is
+very sensitive to any treatment that affects the root, and taking away a
+"toe" for a neighbor will often result in its failure to bloom next
+season. Keep the grass from crowding it. Year after year it will spread
+its branches farther and wider, and there will be more of them, and its
+flowers will be larger and finer each season, if the soil is kept rich.
+I know of old clumps that have a spread of six feet or more, sending up
+hundreds of stalks from matted roots that have not been disturbed for no
+one knows how long, on which blossoms can be counted by the hundreds
+every spring.
+
+Dicentra, better known as "Bleeding Heart," because of its pendulous,
+heart-shaped flowers, is a most lovely early bloomer. It is an excellent
+plant for the front row of the border. It sends up a great number of
+flowering stalks, two and three feet in length, all curving gracefully
+outward from the crown of the plant. These bear beautiful
+foliage--indeed, the plant would be well worth growing for this
+alone--and each stalk is terminated with a raceme of pink and white
+blossoms. It is difficult to imagine anything lovelier or more graceful
+than this plant, when in full bloom.
+
+The Aquilegia ought to be given a place in all collections. It comes in
+blue, white, yellow, and red. Some varieties are single, others double,
+and all beautiful. This is one of our early bloomers. It should be grown
+in clumps, near the front row.
+
+[Illustration: A BIT OF THE BORDER OF PERENNIAL PLANTS]
+
+The Iris is to the garden what the Orchid is to the greenhouse. Its
+colors are of the richest--blue, purple, violet, yellow, white, and
+gray. It blooms in great profusion, for weeks during the early part of
+summer. It is a magnificent flower. It will be found most effective when
+grouped, but it can be scattered about the border in such a way as to
+produce charming results if one is careful to plant it among plants
+whose flowers harmonize with the different varieties in color.
+Color-harmony is as important in the hardy border as in any other part
+of the garden, and no plant should be put out until you are sure of the
+effect it will produce upon other plants in its immediate neighborhood.
+Find the proper place for it before you give it a permanent location.
+The term, "proper place," has as much reference to color as to size. A
+plant that introduces color-discord is as much out of place as is the
+plant whose size makes it a candidate for a position in the rear when it
+is given a place in the immediate foreground.
+
+Pyrethrum _uliginosum_ is a wonderfully free bloomer, growing to a
+height of three or four feet, therefore well adapted to the middle rows
+of the border. It blooms during the latter part of summer. It is often
+called the "Giant Daisy," and the name is very appropriate, as it is the
+common Daisy, to all intents and purposes, on a large scale.
+
+The small white Daisy, of lower growth, is equally desirable for
+front-row locations. It is a most excellent plant, blooming early in
+the season, and throughout the greater part of summer, and well into
+autumn if the old flower-stalks are cut away in September, to encourage
+new growth. It is a stand-by for cut flowers for bouquet work. Because
+of its compact habit it is a very desirable plant for edging the border.
+
+It is difficult to imagine anything more daintily charming than the
+herbaceous Spireas. _Alba_, white, and _rosea_, soft pink, produce
+large, feathery tufts of bloom on stalks six and seven feet tall. The
+flowers of these varieties are exceedingly graceful in an airy,
+cloud-like way, and never fail to attract the attention of those who
+pass ordinary plants by without seeing them.
+
+The florists have taken our native Asters in hand, and we now have
+several varieties that make themselves perfectly at home in the border.
+Some of them grow to a height of eight feet. Others are low growers. The
+rosy-violet kinds and the pale lavender-blues are indescribably lovely.
+Nearly all of them bloom very late in the season. Their long branches
+will be a mass of flowers with fringy petals and a yellow centre. These
+plants have captured the charm of the Indian Summer and brought it into
+the garden, where they keep it prisoner during the last days of the
+season. By all means give them a place in your collection. And it will
+add to the effect if you plant alongside them a few clumps of their
+sturdy, faithful old companion of the roadside and pasture, the Golden
+Rod.
+
+It hardly seems necessary for me to give a detailed description of all
+the plants deserving a place in the border. The list would be too long
+if I were to attempt to do so. You will find all the really desirable
+kinds quite fully described in the catalogues of the leading dealers in
+plants. Information as to color, size, and time of flowering is given
+there, and you can select to suit your taste, feeling confident that you
+will be well satisfied with the result.
+
+Just a few words of advice, in conclusion:
+
+Don't crowd your plants.
+
+Allow for development.
+
+Don't try to have a little of everything.
+
+Don't overlook the old-fashioned kinds simply because they happen to be
+old. That proves that they have merit.
+
+Keep the ground between them clean and open.
+
+Manure well each spring.
+
+Stir the soil occasionally during the season.
+
+Prevent the formation of seed.
+
+Once in three or four years divide the old clumps, and discard all but
+the strongest, healthiest portions of the roots. Reset in rich, mellow
+soil. Do this while the plants are at a standstill, early in spring, or
+in fall, after the work of the season is over.
+
+
+
+
+THE GARDEN OF ANNUALS
+
+
+In preparing the garden for annuals, the first thing to do is to spade
+up the soil. This can be done shortly after the frost is out of the
+ground. This is about all that can be done to advantage, at this time,
+as the ground must be allowed to remain as it comes from the spade until
+the combined effect of sun and air has put it into a condition that will
+make it an easy matter to reduce it to proper mellowness with the hoe or
+iron rake.
+
+Right here let me say: Most of us, in the enthusiasm which takes
+possession of us when spring comes, are inclined to rush matters. We
+spade up the soil, and immediately attempt to pulverize it, and of
+course fail in the attempt, because it is not in a proper condition to
+pulverize. We may succeed in breaking it up into little clods, but that
+is not what needs doing. It must be made fine, and mellow,--not a lump
+left in it,--and this can only be done well after the elements have had
+an opportunity to do their work on it. When one comes to think about
+it, there is no need of hurry, for it is not safe to sow seed in the
+ground at the north until the weather becomes warm and settled, and that
+will not be before the first of May, in a very favorable season, and
+generally not earlier than the middle of the month. This being the case,
+be content to leave the soil to the mellowing influences of the weather
+until seed-sowing time is at hand. _Then_ go to work and get your garden
+ready.
+
+If the soil is not rich, apply manure from the barnyard or its
+substitute in the shape of some reliable fertilizer.
+
+Do this before you set about the pulverization of the soil. Then go to
+work with hoe and rake, and reduce it to the last possible degree of
+fineness, working the fertilizer you make use of into it in such a
+manner that both are perfectly blended.
+
+There is no danger of overdoing matters in this part of garden-work. The
+finer the soil is the surer you may be of the germination of the seed
+you put into it. Fine seed often fails to grow in a coarse and lumpy
+soil.
+
+In sowing seed, make a distinction between the very fine and that of
+ordinary size. Fine seed should be scattered on the surface, and no
+attempt made to cover it. Simply press down the soil upon which you have
+scattered it with a smooth board. This will make it firm enough to
+retain the moisture required to bring about germination.
+
+Larger seed can be sown on the surface, and afterward covered by sifting
+a slight covering of fine soil over it. Then press with the board to
+make it firm.
+
+Large seed, like that of the Sweet Pea, Four-o'-Clock, and Ricinus,
+should be covered to the depth of half an inch.
+
+I always advise sowing seed in the beds where the plants are to grow,
+instead of starting it in pots and boxes, in the house, early in the
+season, under the impression that by so doing you are going to "get the
+start of the season." In ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, plants from
+seed sown in the house will be so weak in vital force that they cannot
+stand the change which comes when they are transplanted to the open
+ground. In the majority of cases, there will be none to transplant, for
+seedlings grown under living-room conditions generally die before the
+time comes when it is safe to put them out of doors. Should there be any
+to put out, they will be so weak that plants from seed sown in the
+beds, at that time, will invariably get the start of them, and these are
+sure to make the best plants. A person must be an expert in order to
+make a success of plant-growing from seed, in the house, in spring.
+There will be too much heat, too little fresh air, too great a lack of
+moisture in the atmosphere, and often a lack of proper attention in the
+way of watering, and unless these matters can be properly regulated it
+is useless to expect success. Knowing what the result is almost sure to
+be, I discourage the amateur gardener from attempting to grow his own
+seedlings under these conditions. If early plants are desired, buy them
+of the florists whose facilities for growing them are such that they can
+send out strong and healthy stock.
+
+Do not sow the seeds of tender plants until you are quite sure that the
+danger from cold nights is over. It is hardly safe to put any kind of
+seed into the ground before the middle of May, at the north.
+
+If we wait until all conditions are favorable, the young plants will get
+a good start and go steadily ahead, and distance those from seed sown
+before the soil had become warm or the weather settled. Haste often
+makes waste. If the soil is cold and damp seed often fails to germinate
+in it, and this obliges you to buy more seed, and all your labor goes
+for naught.
+
+To the method and time of planting advised above, there is one
+exception--that of the Sweet Pea. This should go into the ground as soon
+as possible in spring. For this reason: This plant likes to get a good
+root-growth before the warm weather of summer comes. With such a growth
+it is ready for flowering early in the season, and no time is wasted.
+Dig a V-shaped trench six inches deep. Sow the seed thickly. It ought
+not to be more than an inch apart, and if closer no harm will be done.
+Cover to the depth of an inch, at time of sowing, tramping the soil down
+firmly. When the young plants have grown to be two or three inches tall,
+draw in more of the soil, and keep on doing this from time to time, as
+the seedlings reach up, until all the soil from the trench has been
+returned to it. This method gives us plants with roots deep enough in
+the soil to make sure of sufficient moisture in a dry season. It also
+insures coolness at the root, a condition quite necessary to the
+successful culture of this favorite flower.
+
+Weeds will generally put in an appearance before the flowering plants
+do. As soon as you can tell "which is which" the work of weeding must
+begin. At this stage, hand-pulling will have to be depended on. But a
+little later, when the flowering plants have made an inch or two of
+growth, weeding by hand should be abandoned. Provide yourself with a
+weeding-hook--a little tool with claw-shaped teeth--with which you can
+uproot more weeds in an hour than you can in all day by hand, and the
+work will be done in a superior manner as the teeth of the little tool
+stir the surface of the soil just enough to keep it light and open--a
+condition that is highly favorable to the healthy development of young
+plants. I have never yet seen a person who liked to pull weeds by hand.
+Gardens are often neglected because of the dislike of their owners for
+this disagreeable task. The use of the weeding-hook does away with the
+drudgery, and makes really pleasant work of the fight with weeds.
+
+If seedlings are to be transplanted, do it after sundown or on a cloudy
+day. Lift the tender plants as carefully as possible, and aim to not
+expose their delicate roots. Get the place in which you propose to plant
+them ready before you lift them, and then set them out immediately. Make
+a hole as deep as their roots are long, drop the plants into it, and
+press the soil firmly about them with thumb and finger. It may be well
+to water them if the season is a dry one. Shade them next day, and
+continue to do so until they show that they have made new feeding roots
+by beginning to grow. I make use of a "shader" that I have "evolved from
+my inner consciousness" that gives better satisfaction than anything
+else I have ever tried. I cut thick brown paper into circular shape,
+eight inches across. Then I cut out a quarter of it, and bring the edges
+of this cut together, and run a stick or wire through them to hold them
+together. This stick or wire should be about ten inches long, as the
+lower end of it must go into the soil. When my "shader" is ready for use
+it has some resemblance to a paper umbrella with a handle at one side
+instead of in the middle. This handle is inserted in the soil close to
+the plant, and the "umbrella" shades it most effectively, and does this
+without interfering with a free circulation of air, which is a matter of
+great importance.
+
+If thorough work in the way of weeding is done at the beginning of the
+season, it will be an easy matter to keep the upper hand of the enemy
+later on. But if you allow the weeds to get the start of you, you will
+have to do some hard fighting to gain the supremacy which ought never to
+have been relinquished. After a little, the hoe can be used to
+advantage. If the season happens to be a dry one, do not allow the soil
+to become hard, and caked on the surface, under the impression that it
+will not be safe to stir it because of the drouth. A soil that is kept
+light and open will absorb all the moisture there is in the air, while
+one whose surface is crusted over cannot do this, therefore plants
+growing in it suffer far more than those do in the soil that is stirred
+constantly. Aim to get all possible benefit from dews and slight showers
+by keeping the soil in such a sponge-like condition that it can take
+advantage of them.
+
+It is a good plan to use the grass-clippings from the lawn as a mulch
+about your plants in hot, dry weather.
+
+Do not begin to water plants in a dry season unless you can keep up the
+practice. Better let them take the chances of pulling through without
+the application than to give it for a short time and then abandon it
+because of the magnitude of the task.
+
+Furnish racks and trellises for such plants as need them as soon as they
+are needed. Many a good plant is spoiled by neglecting to give attention
+to its requirements at the proper time.
+
+Make it a rule to go over the garden at least twice a week, after the
+flowering season sets in, and cut away all faded flowers. If this is
+done, no seed will come to development, and the strength of the plants
+will be expended in the production of other flowers. By keeping up this
+practice through the season, it is possible to keep most of them
+blossoming until late in the summer, as they will endeavor to perpetuate
+themselves by the production of seed, and the first step in this process
+is the production of flowers.
+
+What flowers would you advise us to grow? many readers of this chapter
+will be sure to ask, after having read what I have said above about the
+garden of annuals.
+
+In answering this question here, it will be necessary, in a measure, to
+repeat what has been, or will be, said in other chapters, where various
+phases of gardening are treated. But the question is one that should be
+answered in this connection, at the risk of repetition, in order to
+fully cover the subject now under consideration.
+
+There are so many kinds of flowers offered by the seedsmen that it is a
+difficult matter to decide between them, when all are so good. But no
+one garden is large enough to contain them all. Were one to attempt the
+cultivation of all he would be obliged to put in all his time at the
+work, and the services of an assistant would be needed, besides. Even
+then the chances are that the work would be done in a superficial
+fashion. Therefore I shall mention only such kinds as I consider the
+very best of the lot for general use, adding this advice:
+
+Don't attempt too much. A few good kinds, well grown, will afford a
+great deal more pleasure than a great many kinds only half grown.
+
+This list is made up of such kinds as can properly be classed as
+"stand-bys," kinds which any amateur gardener can be reasonably sure of
+success with if the instructions given in this chapter are carefully
+followed.
+
+_Alyssum._--Commonly called Sweet Alyssum, because of its pleasing
+fragrance. Of low growth. Very effective as an edging. Most profuse and
+constant bloomer.
+
+_Aster._--This annual disputes popularity with the Sweet Pea. Very many
+persons would prefer it to any other because of its sturdy habit, ease
+of culture, profusion of bloom, and great variety of color. It is one of
+the indispensables.
+
+_Antirrhinum_ (Snapdragon).--Plant of profuse flowering habit. Flowers
+of peculiar shape, mostly in rich colors. Very satisfactory for autumn.
+
+[Illustration: A BED OF ASTERS]
+
+_Balsam._--Splendid plant for summer flowering, coming in many colors,
+some of these exceedingly delicate and beautiful. Flowers like small
+Roses, very double, and set so thickly along the stalks that each branch
+seems like a wreath of bloom. It is often necessary to trim off many of
+the leaves in order to give the blossoms a chance to display themselves.
+Some varieties are charmingly variegated. Being quite tender it should
+not be sown until one is sure of warm weather.
+
+_Calliopsis_ (Coreopsis).--A very showy plant, with rich yellow flowers,
+marked with brown, maroon and scarlet at the base of the petal. A most
+excellent plant where great masses of color are desired. Fine for
+combining with scarlet and other strong-toned flowers. An all-the-season
+bloomer.
+
+_Candytuft._--A free and constant bloomer, of low habit. Very useful for
+edging beds and borders. Comes in pure white and purplish red.
+
+_Celosia_ (Cockscomb).--A plant with most peculiar flowers. What we
+_call_ the flower is really a collection of hundreds of tiny individual
+blossoms set so close together that they seem to compose one large
+blossom. The prevailing color is a bright scarlet, but we have some
+varieties in pink and pale yellow. Sure to please.
+
+_Cosmos._--A plant of wonderfully free flowering habit. Flowers mostly
+pink, white, and lilac. A tall grower, branching freely, therefore well
+adapted to back rows, or massing. Foliage fine and feathery. Excellent
+for cutting. One of our most desirable fall bloomers. We have an early
+Cosmos of rather dwarf habit, but the large-growing late varieties are
+far more satisfactory. It may be necessary to cover the plants at night
+when the frosts of middle and late September are due, as they will be
+severely injured by even the slightest touch of frost. Well worth all
+the care required.
+
+_Four-o'-Clock_ (Marvel of Peru--Mirabilis).--A good, old-fashioned
+flower that has the peculiarity of opening its trumpet-shaped blossoms
+late in the afternoon. Bushy, well branched, and adapted to border use
+as a "filler."
+
+_Escholtzia_ (California Poppy).--One of the showiest flowers in the
+entire list. A bed of it will be a sheet of richest golden yellow for
+many weeks.
+
+_Gaillardia_ (Blanket-flower).--A profuse and constant bloomer, of rich
+and striking color-combinations. Yellow, brown, crimson, and maroon.
+Most effective when massed.
+
+_Gypsophila_ (Baby's Breath).--A plant of great daintiness, both in
+foliage and flowers. Always in demand for cut-flower work. White and
+pink.
+
+_Kochia_ (Burning Bush--Mexican Fire-plant).--A very desirable plant, of
+symmetrical, compact habit. Rich green throughout the summer, but
+turning to dark red in fall. Fine for low hedges and for scattering
+through the border wherever there happens to be a vacancy.
+
+_Larkspur._--Another old-fashioned flower of decided merit.
+
+_Marigold._--An old favorite that richly deserves a place in all gardens
+because of its rich colors, free blooming qualities and ease of culture.
+
+_Nasturtium._--Too well known to need description here. Everybody ought
+to grow it. Unsurpassed in garden decoration and equally as valuable for
+cutting. Blooms throughout the entire season. Does well in a rather poor
+soil. In a very rich soil it makes a great growth of branches at the
+expense of blossoms.
+
+_Pansy._--Not an annual, but generally treated as such. A universal
+favorite that almost everybody grows. If flowers of a particular color
+are desired I would advise buying blooming seedlings from the florist,
+as one can never tell what he is going to get if he depends on seed of
+his own sowing. The flowers will be as fine as those from selected
+varieties, but there will be such a medley of colors that one sometimes
+tires of the effect. I have always received the most pleasure from
+planting distinct colors, like the yellows, the blues, the whites, and
+the purples, and the only way in which I can make sure of getting just
+the colors I want is to tell the florist about them, and instruct him to
+send me those colors when his seedlings come into bloom.
+
+_Petunia._--Another of the "stand-bys." A plant that can always be
+depended on. Very free bloomer, very profuse, and very showy. If the old
+plants that have blossomed through the summer begin to look ragged and
+unsightly, cut away the entire top. In a short time new shoots will be
+sent out from the stump of the old plant, and almost before you know it
+the plant will have renewed itself, and be blooming as freely as when it
+was young. Fine for massing.
+
+_Phlox Drummondi._--One of our most satisfactory annuals. Any one can
+grow it. It begins to bloom when small, and improves with age. Comes in
+a wide range of colors, some brilliant, others delicate--all beautiful.
+Charming effects are easily secured by planting the pale rose, pure
+white, and soft yellow varieties together, either in rows or circles.
+The contrast will be fine, and the harmony perfect. Other colors are
+desirable, but they do not all combine well. It is a good plan to use
+white varieties freely, as these heighten the effect of the strong
+colors. I always buy seed in which each color is by itself, as a mixture
+of red, crimson, lilac, and violet in the same bed is never pleasing to
+me.
+
+_Poppy._--Brilliant and beautiful. Unrivalled for midsummer show. As
+this plant is of little value after its early flowering period is over,
+other annuals can be planted in the bed with it, to take its place. Set
+these plants about the middle of July, and when they begin to bloom pull
+up the Poppies. The Shirley strain includes some of the loveliest colors
+imaginable. Its flowers have petals that seem cut from satin. The
+large-flowered varieties are quite as ornamental as Peonies, as long as
+they last.
+
+_Portulacca._--Low grower, spreading until the surface of the bed is
+covered with the dark green carpet of its peculiar foliage. Flowers both
+single and double, of a great variety of colors. Does well in hot
+locations, and in poor soil. Of the easiest culture.
+
+_Scabiosa._--Very fine. Especially for cutting. Colors dark purple,
+maroon, and white.
+
+_Salpiglossis._--A free-blooming plant, of very brilliant coloring and
+striking variegation. Really freakish in its peculiar markings.
+
+_Stock_ (Gillyflower).--A plant of great merit. Flowers of the double
+varieties are like miniature Roses, in spikes. Very fragrant. Fine for
+cutting. Blooms until frost comes. Red, pink, purple, white, and pale
+yellow. The single varieties are not desirable, and as soon as a
+seedling plant shows single flowers, pull it up.
+
+_Sweet Pea._--This grand flower needs no description. It is one of the
+plants we _must_ have.
+
+_Verbena._--Old, but none the worse for that. A free and constant
+bloomer, of rich and varied coloring. Habit low and spreading. One of
+the best plants we have for low beds, under the sitting-room windows.
+Keep the faded flowers cut off, and at midsummer cut away most of the
+old branches, and allow the plant to renew itself, as advised in the
+case of the Petunia.
+
+_Wallflower._--Not as much grown as it ought to be. Delightfully
+fragrant. Color rich brown and tawny yellow. General habit similar to
+that of Stock, of which it is a near relative. Late bloomer. Give it one
+season's trial and you will be delighted with it. Not as showy as most
+flowers, but quite as beautiful, and the peer of any of them in
+sweetness.
+
+_Zinnia._--A robust plant of the easiest possible culture. Any one can
+grow it, and it will do well anywhere. Grows to a height of three feet
+or more, branches freely, and close to the ground, and forms a dense,
+compact bush. On this account very useful for hedge purposes.
+Exceedingly profuse in its production of flowers. Blooms till frost
+comes. Comes in almost all the colors of the rainbow.
+
+Because I have advised the amateur gardener to make his selection from
+the above list, it must not be understood that those of which I have not
+made mention, but which will be found described in the catalogues of the
+florist, are not desirable. Many of them might please the reader quite
+as well, and possibly more, than any of the kinds I have spoken of. But
+most of them will require a treatment which the beginner in gardening
+will not be able to give them, and, on that account, I do not include
+them in my list. After a year or two's experience in gardening, the
+amateur will be justified in attempting their culture--which, after all,
+is not difficult if one has time to give them special attention and a
+sufficient amount of care. The kinds I have advised are such as
+virtually take care of themselves, after they get well under way, if
+weeds are kept away from them. They are the kinds for "everybody's
+garden."
+
+Let me add, in concluding this chapter, that it is wisdom on the part of
+the amateur to select not more than a dozen of the kinds that appeal
+most forcibly to him, and concentrate his attention on them. Aim to grow
+them to perfection by giving them the best of care. A garden of
+well-grown plants, though limited in variety, will afford a hundredfold
+more pleasure to the owner of it than a garden containing a little of
+everything, and nothing well grown.
+
+In purchasing seed, patronize a dealer whose reputation for honesty and
+reliability is such that he would not dare to send out anything inferior
+if he were inclined to do so. There are many firms that advertise the
+best of seed at very low prices. Look out for them. I happen to know
+that our old and most reputable seedsmen make only a reasonable profit
+on the seed they sell. Other dealers who cut under in price can only
+afford to do so because they do not exercise the care and attention
+which the reliable seedsman does in growing his stock, hence their
+expenses are less. Cheap seed will be found cheap in all senses of the
+term.
+
+I want to lay special emphasis on the advisability of purchasing seed
+in which each color is by itself. The objection is often urged that one
+person seldom cares to use as many plants of one color as can be grown
+from a package of seed. This difficulty is easily disposed of. Club with
+your neighbors, and divide the seed between you when it comes. In this
+way you will secure the most satisfactory results and pay no more for
+your seed than you would if you were to buy "mixed" packages. Grow
+colors separately for a season and I am quite sure you will never go
+back to mixed seed.
+
+
+
+
+THE BULB GARDEN
+
+
+Every lover of flowers should have a garden of bulbs, for three reasons:
+First, they bloom so early in the season that one can have flowers at
+least six weeks longer than it is possible to have them if only
+perennial and annual plants are depended on. Some bulbs come into bloom
+as soon as the snow is gone, at the north, to be followed by those of
+later habit, and a constant succession of bloom can be secured by a
+judicious selection of varieties, thus completely tiding over the
+usually flowerless period between the going of winter and the coming of
+the earlier spring flowers. Second, they require but little care, much
+less than the ordinary plant. Give them a good soil to grow in, and keep
+weeds and grass from encroaching on them, and they will ask no other
+attention from you, except when, because of a multiplication of bulbs,
+they need to be separated and reset, which will be about every third
+year. The work required in doing this is no more than that involved in
+spading up a bed for annual flowers. Third, they are so hardy, even at
+the extreme north, that one can be sure of bloom from them if they are
+given a good covering in fall, which is a very easy matter to do.
+
+For richness and variety of color this class of plants stands
+unrivalled. The bulb garden is more brilliant than the garden of annuals
+which succeeds it.
+
+September is the proper month in which to make the bulb garden.
+
+As a general thing, persons fail to plant their bulbs until October and
+often November, thinking the time of planting makes very little
+difference so long as they are put into the ground before winter sets
+in. Here is where a serious mistake is made. Early planting should
+always be the rule,--for this reason: Bulbs make their annual growth
+immediately after flowering, and ripen off by midsummer. After this,
+they remain dormant until fall, when new root-growth takes place, and
+the plant gets ready for the work that will be demanded of it as soon as
+spring opens. It is made during the months of October and November, if
+cold weather does not set in earlier, and should be fully completed
+before the ground freezes. If incomplete--as is always the case when
+late planting is done--the plants are obliged to do--or attempt to
+do--double duty in spring. That is, the completion of the work left
+undone in fall and the production of flowers must go on at the same
+time, and this is asking too much of the plant. It cannot produce fine,
+perfect flowers with a poorly-developed root-system to supply the
+strength and nutriment needed for such a task, therefore the plants are
+not in a condition to do themselves justice. Often late-planted bulbs
+fail to produce any flowers, and, in most instances, the few flowers
+they do give are small and inferior in all respects.
+
+With early-planted bulbs it is quite different, because they had all the
+late fall-season to complete root-growth in, and when winter closed in
+it found them ready for the work of spring.
+
+Therefore, do not neglect the making of your bulb garden until winter is
+at hand under the impression that if the bulbs are planted any time
+before snow comes, all is well. This is the worst mistake you could
+possibly make.
+
+The catalogues of the bulb-dealers will be sent out about the first of
+September. Send in your order for the kinds you decide on planting at
+once, and as soon as your order has gone, set about preparing the place
+in which you propose to plant them. Have everything in readiness for
+them when they arrive, and put them into the ground as soon after they
+are received as possible.
+
+The soil in which bulbs should be planted cannot be too carefully
+prepared, as much of one's success with these plants depends upon this
+most important item. It must be rich, and it must be fine and mellow.
+
+The best soil in which to set bulbs is a sandy loam.
+
+The best fertilizer is old, thoroughly rotted cow-manure. On no account
+should fresh manure be used. Make use, if possible, of that which is
+black from decomposition, and will crumble readily under the application
+of the hoe, or iron rake. One-third in bulk of this material is not too
+much. Bulbs are great eaters, and unless they are well fed you cannot
+expect large crops of fine flowers from them. And they must be well
+supplied with nutritious food each year, because the crop of next season
+depends largely upon the nutriment stored up this season.
+
+If barnyard manure is not obtainable, substitute bonemeal. Use the fine
+meal, in the proportion of a pound to each yard square of surface. More,
+if the soil happens to be a poor one. If the soil is heavy with clay,
+add sand enough to lighten it, if possible.
+
+The ideal location for bulbs is one that is naturally well drained, and
+has a slope to the south.
+
+Unless drainage is good success cannot be expected, as nothing injures a
+bulb more than water about its roots. Therefore, if you do not have a
+place suitable for them so far as natural drainage is concerned, see to
+it that artificial drainage supplies what is lacking. Spade up the bed
+to the depth of a foot and a half. That is--throw the soil out of it to
+that depth,--and put into the bottom of the excavation at least four
+inches of material that will not decay readily, like broken brick,
+pottery, clinkers from the coal-stove, coarse gravel--anything that will
+be permanent and allow water to run off through the cracks and crevices
+in it, thus securing a system of drainage that will answer all purposes
+perfectly. It is of the utmost importance that this should be done on
+all heavy soils. Unless the water from melting snows and early spring
+rains drains away from the bulbs readily you need not expect flowers
+from them.
+
+After having arranged for drainage, work over the soil thrown out of the
+bed until it is as fine and mellow as it can possibly be made. Mix
+whatever fertilizer you make use of with it, when you do this, that the
+two may be thoroughly incorporated. Then return it to the bed. There
+will be more than enough to fill the bed, because some space is given up
+to drainage material, but this will be an advantage because it will
+enable you to so round up the surface that water will run off before it
+has time to soak into the soil to much depth.
+
+I do not think it advisable to say much about plans for bulb-beds,
+because comparatively few persons seem inclined to follow instructions
+along this line. The less formal a bed of this kind is the better
+satisfaction it will give, as a general thing. It is the flower that is
+in the bed that should be depended on to give pleasure rather than the
+shape of the bed containing it.
+
+I would advise locating bulb-beds near the house where they can be
+easily seen from the living-room windows. These beds can be utilized
+later on for annuals, which can be sown or planted above the bulbs
+without interfering with them in any respect.
+
+I would never advise mixing bulbs. By that, I mean, planting Tulips,
+Hyacinths, Daffodils, and other kinds in the same bed. They will not
+harmonize in color or habit. Each kind will be found vastly more
+pleasing when kept by itself.
+
+I would also advise keeping each color by itself, unless you are sure
+that harmony will result from a mixture or combination of colors. Pink
+and white, blue and white, and red and white Hyacinths look well when
+planted together, but a jumble of pinks, blues, and reds is never as
+pleasing as the same colors would be separately, or where each color is
+relieved by white.
+
+The same rule applies to Tulips, with equal force.
+
+We often see pleasing effects that have been secured by planting reds
+and blues in rows, alternating with rows of white. This method keeps the
+quarrelsome colors apart, and affords sufficient contrast to heighten
+the general effect. Still, there is a formality about it which is not
+entirely satisfactory to the person who believes that the flower is of
+first importance, and the shape of the bed, or the arrangement of the
+flowers in the bed, is a matter of secondary consideration.
+
+Bulbs should be put into the ground as soon as possible after being
+taken from the package in which they are sent out by the florist. If
+exposed to the light and air for any length of time they part rapidly
+with the moisture contained in their scales, and that means a loss of
+vitality. If it is not convenient to plant them at once, leave them in
+the package, or put them in some cool, dark place until you are ready to
+use them.
+
+As a rule Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissus should be planted about five
+inches deep, and about six inches apart.
+
+The smaller bulbs should be put from three to four inches below the
+surface and about the same distance apart.
+
+In planting, make a hole with a blunt stick of the depth desired, and
+drop the bulb into it. Then cover, and press the soil down firmly.
+
+Just before the ground is likely to freeze, cover the bed with a coarse
+litter from the barnyard, if obtainable, to a depth of eight or ten
+inches. If this litter is not to be had, hay or straw will answer very
+well, if packed down somewhat. Leaves make an excellent covering if one
+can get enough of them. If they are used, four inches in depth of them
+will be sufficient. Put evergreen boughs or wire netting over them to
+prevent their being blown away.
+
+I frequently receive letters from inexperienced bulb-growers, in which
+the writers express considerable scepticism about the value of such a
+covering as I have advised above, because, they say, it is not deep
+enough to keep out the frost, therefore it might as well be dispensed
+with. Keeping out the frost is not what is aimed at. We expect the soil
+about the bulbs to freeze. But such a covering as has been advised will
+prevent the sun from thawing out the frost after it gets into the soil,
+and this is exactly what we desire. For if the frost can be kept in,
+after it has taken possession, there will not be that frequent
+alternation between freezing and thawing which does the harm to the
+plant. For it is not freezing, understand, that is responsible for the
+mischief, but the _alternation of conditions_. These cause a rupture of
+plant-cells, and that is what does the harm. Keep a comparatively tender
+plant frozen all winter and allow the frost to be drawn out of it
+gradually in spring, and it will survive a season of unusual cold. The
+same plant will be sure to die in a mild season if left exposed to the
+action of the elements, because of frequent and rapid changes between
+heat and cold.
+
+Whatever covering is given should be left on the beds as long as
+possible in spring, because of the severely cold weather we frequently
+have at the north after we think all danger is over. However, as soon as
+the plants begin to make much growth, this covering will have to be
+removed. If a cold night comes along after this has been done spread
+blankets or carpeting over the beds. Keep them from resting on the
+tender growth of the plants by driving pegs into the soil a short
+distance apart, all over the bed. The young plants may not be killed by
+quite a severe freeze, but they will be injured by it, and injury of any
+kind should be guarded against at this season, if you want fine flowers.
+
+[Illustration: BED OF WHITE HYACINTHS BORDERED WITH PANSIES]
+
+Holland Hyacinths should receive first consideration, because they are
+less likely to disappoint than any other hardy bulb. There are single
+and double kinds, both desirable. Personally I prefer the single sorts,
+as they are less prim and formal than the double varieties, whose
+flowers are so thickly set along the stalk that individuality of bloom
+is almost wholly lost sight of. They are, in this respect, like the
+double Geraniums we use in summer bedding, whose trusses of bloom
+resemble a ball of color more than anything else, at a little distance,
+the suggestion of individual bloom being so slight that it seldom
+receives consideration. However, they do good service where
+color-effects are considered of more importance than anything else.
+Single Hyacinths have their flowers more loosely arranged along the
+stalk, and are therefore more graceful than the double varieties, and
+their colors are quite as fine. These range from pure white through
+pale pink and rose, red, scarlet, crimson, blue and charming yellows to
+dark purple.
+
+Roman Hyacinths are too tender for outdoor culture at the north.
+
+There are several quite distinct varieties of the Tulip. There is an
+early sort, a medium one, a late one, and the Parrot, which is prized
+more for its striking combinations of brilliant colors than for its
+beauty of form or habit. We have single and double varieties in all the
+classes, all coming in a wide range of both rich and delicate colors.
+Scarlets, crimsons, and yellows predominate, but the pure whites, the
+pale rose-colors, and the rich purples are general favorites. Some of
+the variegated varieties are exceedingly brilliant in their striking
+color-combinations.
+
+The Narcissus is one of the loveliest flowers we have. It deserves a
+place very near, if not quite at, the head of the list of our best
+spring-blooming plants. Nothing can be richer in color than the large
+double sorts, like _Horsfieldii_, and _Empress_, with their petals of
+burnished gold. There are many other varieties equally as fine, but with
+a little difference in the way of color--just enough to make one want to
+have all of them. The good old-fashioned Daffodil is an honored member
+of the family that should be found in every garden. When you see the
+Dandelion's gleam of gold in the grass by the wayside you get a good
+idea of the brilliant display a fine collection of Narcissus is capable
+of making, for in richness of color these two flowers are almost
+identical.
+
+Among the smaller bulbs that deserve special mention are the Crocus, the
+Snow Drop, the Scilla, and the Musk or Grape Hyacinth. These should be
+planted in groups, to be most effective, and set close together. They
+must be used in large quantities to produce much of a show. They are
+very cheap, and a good-sized collection can be had for a small amount of
+money.
+
+Those who have a liking for special colors will do well to make their
+selections from the named varieties listed in the catalogues. You can
+depend on getting just the color you want, if you order in this way. But
+in no other way. Mixed collection will give you some of all colors, but
+there is no way of telling "which is which" until they come into bloom.
+
+But in mixed collections you will get just as fine bulbs and just as
+fine colors as you will if you select from the list of named varieties.
+Only--you won't know what you are getting. Named sorts will cost
+considerable more than the mixtures.
+
+
+
+
+THE ROSE: ITS GENERAL CARE AND CULTURE
+
+
+The owner of every garden tries to grow roses in it, but where one
+succeeds, ten fail. Perhaps I would be safe in saying that ninety-nine
+out of every hundred fail, for a few inferior blossoms from a plant,
+each season, do not constitute success, but that is what the majority of
+amateur Rose-growers have to be satisfied with, the country over, and so
+great is their admiration for this most beautiful of all flowers that
+these few blossoms encourage them to keep on, season after season,
+hoping for better things, and consoling themselves with the thought
+that, though results fall short of expectation, they are doing about as
+well as their neighbors in this particular phase of gardening.
+
+One does not have to seek far for the causes of failure. The Rose, while
+it is common everywhere, and has been in cultivation for centuries, is
+not understood by the rank and file of those who attempt to grow it,
+therefore it is not given the treatment it deserves, _and which it must
+have,_ in order to achieve success in its culture. When we come to know
+its requirements, and give it proper care, we can grow fine Roses, but
+not till then. Those who form an opinion of the possibilities of the
+plant from the specimens which they see growing in the average garden
+have yet to find out what a really fine Rose is.
+
+The Rose is the flower of romance and sentiment throughout the lands in
+which it grows, but, for all that, it is not a sentimental flower in
+many respects. It is a vegetable epicure. It likes rich food, and great
+quantities of it. Unless it can be gratified in this respect it will
+refuse to give you the large, fine flowers which every Rose-grower,
+professional or amateur, is constantly striving after. But feed it
+according to its liking and it will give you perfect flowers in great
+quantities, season after season, and _then_ you will understand what
+this plant can do when given an opportunity to do itself justice.
+
+The Rose will live on indefinitely in almost any soil, and under almost
+any conditions. I have frequently found it growing in old, deserted
+gardens, almost choked out of existence by weeds and other aggressive
+plants, but still holding to life with a persistency that seemed
+wonderful in a plant of its kind. I have removed some of these plants to
+my own garden, and given them good care, and time after time I have been
+as surprised as delighted at the result. The poor little bushes, that
+had held so tenaciously to life against great odds, seemed to have
+stored up more vitality in their starved roots than any others in the
+garden were possessors of, and as soon as they were given good soil and
+proper care they sent up strong, rank shoots, and thanked me for my
+kindness to them in wonderful crops of flowers, and really put the old
+residents of the place to shame. All through the years of neglect they
+had no doubt been yearning to bud and bloom, but were unable to do so
+because of unfavorable conditions, but when the opportunity to assert
+themselves came they made haste to take advantage of it in a way that
+proves how responsive flowers are to the right kind of treatment.
+
+The Rose will only do its best in a soil that is rather heavy with clay,
+or a tenacious loam. It likes to feel the earth firm about its roots. In
+light, loose soils it never does well, though it frequently makes a
+vigorous growth of branches in them, but it is from a more compact soil
+that we get the most and finest flowers.
+
+[Illustration: HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE]
+
+Some varieties do well in a soil of clay containing considerable gravel.
+Such a soil provides for the roots the firmness of which I have spoken,
+while the gravel insures perfect drainage,--a matter of great importance
+in Rose-culture. Success cannot be expected in a soil unduly retentive
+of moisture. Very heavy soils can be lightened by the addition of
+coarse, sharp sand, old mortar, and cinders. If the location chosen does
+not furnish perfect drainage, naturally, artificial drainage must be
+resorted to. Make an excavation at least a foot and a half in depth, and
+fill in, at the bottom, with bits of broken brick, crockery, coarse
+gravel, fine stone--anything that will not readily decay--and thus
+secure a stratum of porous material through which the superfluous
+moisture in the soil will readily drain away. This is an item in
+Rose-culture that one cannot afford to ignore, if he desires fine Roses.
+
+A rich soil must be provided for the plants in order to secure good
+results. This, also, is a matter of the greatest importance. The ideal
+fertilizer is old, well-rotted cow-manure--so old that it is black, and
+so rotten that it will crumble at the touch of the hoe. On no account
+should fresh manure be used. If old manure cannot be obtained,
+substitute finely-ground bonemeal, in the proportion of a pound to as
+much soil as you think would fill a bushel-basket, on a rough estimate.
+But by all means use the cow-manure if it can possibly be procured, as
+nothing else suits the Rose so well. It will be safe to use it in the
+proportion of a third to the bulk of earth in which you plant your
+Roses. Whatever fertilizer is used should be thoroughly worked into the
+soil before the plants are set out. See that all lumps are pulverized.
+If this is not done, there is danger of looseness about some of the
+roots at planting-time, and this is a thing to guard against, especially
+with young plants.
+
+Location should be taken into consideration, always. Choose, if
+possible, one that has an exposure to the sunshine of the morning and
+the middle of the day. A western exposure is a great deal better than
+none, but the heat of it is generally so intense that few Roses can long
+retain their freshness in it. Something can be done, however, to temper
+the extreme heat of it by planting shrubs where they will shade the
+plants from noon till three o'clock.
+
+Care must be taken, in the choice of a location, to guard against
+drafts. If Roses are planted where a cold wind from the east or north
+can blow over the bed, look out for trouble. Plan for a screen of
+evergreens, if the bed is to be a permanent one. If temporary only, set
+up some boards to protect the plants from getting chilled until
+quick-growing annuals can be made to take their place. I have found that
+mildew on Rose-bushes is traceable, nine times out of ten, to exposure
+to cold drafts, and that few varieties are strong enough to withstand
+the effects of repeated attacks of it. The harm done by it can be
+mitigated, to some extent, by applications of flowers of sulphur, dusted
+over the entire plant while moist with dew, but it will not do to depend
+on this remedy. Remove the cause of trouble and there will be no need of
+any application.
+
+Because the Rose is so beautiful, when in full bloom, quite naturally we
+like to plant it where its beauty can be seen to the best advantage. But
+I would not advise giving it a place on the lawn, or in the front yard.
+When plants are in bloom, people will look only at their flowers, and
+whatever drawbacks there are about the bush will not be noticed. But
+after the flowering period is over, the bushes will come in for
+inspection, and then it will be discovered that a Rose-bush without
+blossoms is not half as attractive as most other shrubs are. We prune it
+back sharply in our efforts to get the finest possible flowers from it,
+thus making it impossible to have luxuriance of branch or foliage. We
+thin it until there is not enough left of it to give it the dignity of a
+shrub. In short, as ornamental shrubs, Roses are failures with the
+exception of a few varieties, and these are not kinds in general
+cultivation. This being the case, it is advisable to locate the Rose-bed
+where it will not be greatly in evidence after the flowering season is
+ended. But try to have it where its glories can be enjoyed by the
+occupants of the home. Not under, or close to, the living-room windows,
+for that space should be reserved for summer flowers, but where it will
+be in full view, if possible, from the kitchen as well as the parlor.
+The flowering period of the Rose is so short that we must contrive to
+get the greatest possible amount of pleasure out of it, and in order to
+do that we want it where we can see it at all times.
+
+Very few of our best Roses are really hardy, though most of the
+florists' catalogues speak of them as being so. Many kinds lose the
+greater share of their branches during the winter, unless given good
+protection. Their roots, however, are seldom injured so severely that
+they will not send up a stout growth of new branches during the season,
+but this is not what we want. We want _Roses_,--lots of them,--and in
+order to have them we must contrive, in some way, to save as many of
+the last year's branches as possible. Fortunately, this can be done
+without a great deal of trouble.
+
+Here is my method of winter protection: Late in fall--generally about
+the first of November, or whenever there are indications that winter is
+about to close in upon us--I bend the bushes to the ground, and cover
+them with dry earth, leaves, litter from the barn, or evergreen
+branches. In doing this I am not aiming to keep the frost away from the
+plants, as might be supposed, but rather to prevent the sun from getting
+at the soil and thawing the frost that has taken possession of it.
+Scientific investigation has proven that a plant, though comparatively
+tender, is not seriously injured by freezing, if it can be _kept frozen_
+until the frost is extracted from it _naturally_,--that is, gradually
+and according to natural processes. It is the frequent alternation of
+freezing and thawing that does the harm. Therefore, if you have a tender
+Rose that you want to carry over winter in the open ground, give it
+ample protection as soon as the frost has got at it--before it has a
+chance to thaw out--and you can be reasonably sure of its coming through
+in spring in good condition. What I mean by the term "ample protection"
+is--a covering of one kind or another that will _shade_ the plant and
+counteract the influence of the sun upon the frozen soil--not, as most
+amateurs seem to think, for the purpose of keeping the soil warm. I have
+already made mention of this scientific fact, and may do it again
+because it is a matter little understood, but is one of the greatest
+importance, hence my frequent reference to it.
+
+If earth is used as a covering, it should be dry, and after it is put
+on, boards, or something that will turn rain and water should be put
+over it. Old oil-cloth is excellent for this purpose. Canvas that has
+been given a coating of paint is good. Tarred sheathing-paper answers
+the purpose very well. Almost anything will do that prevents the earth
+from getting saturated with water, which, if allowed to stand among the
+branches, will prove quite as harmful as exposure to the fluctuations of
+winter weather. If leaves are used,--and these make an ideal covering if
+you can get enough of them,--they can be kept in place by laying coarse
+wire netting over them. Or evergreen branches can be used to keep the
+wind from blowing them away. These branches alone will be sufficient
+protection for the hardier kinds, such as Harrison's Yellow, Provence,
+Cabbage, and the Mosses, anywhere south of New York. North of that
+latitude I would not advise depending on so slight a protection.
+Earth-covering is preferable for the northern section of the United
+States.
+
+[Illustration: ROSE TRELLIS]
+
+It is no easy matter to get sturdy Rose-bushes ready for winter. Their
+canes are stiff and brittle. Their thorns are formidable. One person,
+working alone, cannot do the entire work to advantage. It needs one to
+bend the bushes down and hold them in that position while the other
+applies the covering. In bending the bush, great care must be taken to
+prevent its being broken, or cracked, close to the ground. Provide
+yourself with gloves of substantial leather or thick canvas before you
+tackle them. Then take hold of the cane close to the ground, with the
+left hand, holding it firmly, grasp the upper part of it with the right
+hand, and proceed gently and cautiously with the work until you have it
+flat on the ground. If your left-hand grasp is a firm one, you can feel
+the bush yielding by degrees, and this is what you should be governed
+by. On no account work so rapidly that you do not feel the resistance of
+the branch giving way in a manner that assures you that it is adjusting
+itself safely to the force that is being applied to it. When you have
+it on the ground, you will have to hold it there until it is covered
+with earth, unless you prefer to weight it down with something heavy
+enough to keep it in place while you cover it. Omit the weights, or
+relax your grip upon it, and the elastic branches will immediately
+spring back to their normal position. Sometimes, when a bush is
+stubbornly stiff, and refuses to yield without danger of injury, it is
+well to heap a pailful or two of earth against it, on the side toward
+which it is to be bent, thus enabling you to _curve_ it over the
+heaped-up soil in such a manner as to avoid a sharp bend. Never hurry
+with this work. Take your time for it, and do it thoroughly, and
+thoroughness means carefulness, always. As a general thing, six or eight
+inches of dry soil will be sufficient covering for Roses at the north.
+If litter is used, the covering can be eight or ten inches deep.
+
+Do not apply any covering early in the season, as so many do for the
+sake of "getting the work out of the way." Wait until you are reasonably
+sure that cold weather is setting in.
+
+Teas, and the Bourbon and Bengal sections of the so-called
+ever-bloomers, are most satisfactorily wintered in the open ground by
+making a pen of boards about them, at least ten inches deep, and
+filling it with leaves, packing them firmly over the laid-down plants.
+Then cover with something to shed rain. These very tender sorts cannot
+always be depended on to come through the winter safely at the north,
+even when given the best of protection, but where one has a bed of them
+that has afforded pleasure throughout the entire summer, quite naturally
+he dislikes to lose them if there is a possibility of saving them, and
+he will be willing to make an effort to carry them through the winter.
+If only part of them are saved, he will feel amply repaid for all his
+trouble. Generally all the old top will have to be cut away, but that
+does not matter with Roses of this class, as vigorous shoots will be
+sent up, early in the season, if the roots are alive, therefore little
+or no harm is done by the entire removal of the old growth.
+
+The best Roses to plant are those grown by reliable dealers who
+understand how to grow vigorous stock, and who are too honest to give a
+plant a wrong name. Some unscrupulous dealers, whose supply of plants is
+limited to a few of the kinds easiest to grow, will fill any order you
+send them, and your plants will come to you labelled to correspond with
+your order. But when they come into bloom, you may find that you have
+got kinds that you did not order, and did not care for. The honest
+dealer never plays this trick on his customers. If he hasn't the kinds
+you order, he will tell you so. Therefore, before ordering, try to find
+out who the honest dealers are, and give no order to any firm not well
+recommended by persons in whose opinion you have entire confidence.
+There are scores of such firms, but they do not advertise as extensively
+as the newer ones, because they have many old customers who do their
+advertising for them by "speaking good words" in their favor to friends
+who need anything in their line.
+
+I would advise purchasing two-year-old plants, always. They have much
+stronger roots than those of the one-year-old class, and will give a
+fairly good crop of flowers the first season, as a general thing. And
+when one sets out a new Rose, he is always in a hurry to see "what it
+looks like."
+
+Be sure to buy plants on their own roots. It is claimed by many growers
+that many varieties of the Rose do better when grafted on vigorous stock
+than they do on their own roots, and this is doubtless true. But it is
+also true that the stock of these kinds can be increased more rapidly by
+grafting than from cuttings, and, because of this, many dealers resort
+to this method of securing a supply of salable plants. It is money in
+their pockets to do so. But it is an objectionable plan, because the
+scion of a choice variety grafted to a root of an inferior kind is quite
+likely to die off, and when this happens you have a worthless plant.
+Strong and vigorous branches may be sent up from the root, but from them
+you will get no flowers, because the root from which they spring is that
+of a non-flowering sort. Many persons cannot understand why it is that
+plants so luxuriant in growth fail to bloom, but when they discover that
+this growth comes from the root _below where the graft was inserted_,
+the mystery is explained to them. When grafted plants are used, care
+must be taken to remove every shoot that appears about the plant _unless
+it is sent out above the graft_. If the shoots that are sent up from
+_below_ the graft are allowed to remain, the grafted portion will soon
+die off, because these shoots from the root of the variety upon which it
+was "worked" will speedily rob it of vitality and render it worthless.
+All this risk is avoided by planting only kinds which are grown upon
+their own roots.
+
+In planting Roses, make the hole in which they are to be set large
+enough to admit of spreading out their roots evenly and naturally. Let
+it be deep enough to bring the roots about the same distance below the
+surface as the plant shows them to have been before it was taken from
+the nursery row. When the roots are properly straightened out, fill in
+about them with fine soil, and firm it down well, and then add two or
+three inches more of soil, after which at least a pailful of water
+should be applied to each plant, to thoroughly settle the soil between
+and about the roots. Avoid loose planting if you want your plants to get
+a good start, and do well. When all the soil has been returned to the
+hole, add a mulch of coarse manure to prevent too rapid evaporation of
+moisture while the plants are putting forth new feeding roots.
+
+If large-rooted plants are procured from the nursery, quite likely some
+of the larger roots will be injured by the spade in lifting them from
+the row. Look over these roots carefully, and cut off the ends of all
+that have been bruised, before planting. A smooth cut will heal readily,
+but a ragged one will not.
+
+We have several classes or divisions of Roses adapted to culture at the
+north. The June Roses are those which give a bountiful crop of flowers
+at the beginning of summer, but none thereafter. This class includes
+the Provence, the Mosses, the Scotch and Austrian kinds, Harrison's
+Yellow, Madame Plantier, and the climbers.
+
+[Illustration: RAMBLER ROSES]
+
+The Hybrid Perpetuals bloom profusely in early summer, and sparingly
+thereafter, at intervals, until the coming of cold weather. These are,
+in many respects, the most beautiful of all Roses.
+
+The ever-bloomers are made up of Bengal, Bourbon, Tea and Noisette
+varieties. These are small in habit of growth, but exquisitely beautiful
+in form and color, and most kinds are so delightfully fragrant, and
+flower so freely from June to the coming of cold weather, that no garden
+should be without a bed of them.
+
+The Rugosa Roses are more valuable as shrubs than as flowering plants,
+though their large, bright, single flowers are extremely attractive.
+Their chief attraction is their beautifully crinkled foliage, of a rich
+green, and their bright crimson fruit which is retained throughout the
+season. This class gives flowers, at intervals, from June to October.
+
+Hybrid Perpetuals must be given special treatment in order to secure
+flowers from them throughout the season. Their blossoms are always
+produced on new growth, therefore, if you would keep them producing
+flowers, you must keep them growing. This is done by feeding the plant
+liberally, and cutting back the branches upon which flowers have been
+produced to a strong bud from which a new branch can be developed. In
+this way we keep the plant constantly renewing itself, and in the
+process of renewal we are likely to get a good many flowers where we
+would get few, or none, if we were to let the plant take care of itself.
+The term "perpetual" is, however, a misleading one, as it suggests a
+constant production of flowers. Most varieties of this class, as has
+been said, will bloom occasionally, after the first generous crop of the
+season, but never very freely, and often not at all unless the treatment
+outlined above is carefully followed. But so beautiful are the Roses of
+this class that one fine flower is worth a score of ordinary blossoms,
+and the lover of the Rose will willingly devote a good deal of time and
+labor to the production of it.
+
+[Illustration: DOROTHY PERKINS ROSE--THE BEST OF THE RAMBLERS]
+
+The Ramblers, now so popular, constitute a class by themselves, in many
+respects. They are of wonderfully vigorous habit, have a score or more
+of flowers where others have but one bloom early in the season, and give
+a wonderful show of color. The individual blossoms are too small to
+please the critical Rose-grower, but there are so many in each cluster,
+and these clusters are so numerous, that the general effect is most
+charming. Crimson Rambler is too well known to need description. The
+variety that deserves a place at the very head of the list, allowing me
+to be judge, is Dorothy Perkins. This variety is of slenderer growth
+than Crimson Rambler, therefore of more vine-like habit, and, on this
+account, better adapted to use about porches and verandas, where it can
+be trained along the cornice in a graceful fashion that the
+stiff-branched Crimson Rambler will not admit of. Its foliage is not so
+large as that of the other variety named, but it is much more
+attractive, being finely cut, and having a glossy surface that adds much
+to the beauty of the plant. But the chief charm of the plant is its soft
+pink flowers, dainty and delicate in the extreme. These are produced in
+long, loose sprays instead of crowded clusters, thus making the effect
+of a plant in full bloom vastly more graceful than that of any of the
+others of the class.
+
+Roses have their enemies, and it would seem as if there must be some
+sort of understanding among them as to the date of attack, because
+nearly all of them put in an appearance at about the same time. The
+aphis I find no difficulty in keeping down by the use of Nicoticide--a
+very strongly concentrated extract of the nicotine principle of tobacco.
+This should be diluted with water, as directed on the cans or bottles in
+which it is put up, and applied to all parts of the bush with a sprayer.
+Do not wait for the aphis to appear before beginning warfare against
+him. You can count on his coming, therefore it is well to act on the
+offensive, instead of the defensive, for it is an easier matter to keep
+him away altogether than it is to get rid of him after he has taken
+possession of your bushes. If he finds the tang of Nicoticide clinging
+to the foliage on his arrival, he will speedily conclude that it will be
+made extremely uncomfortable for him, if he decides to locate, and he
+will look for more congenial quarters elsewhere.
+
+For the worm that does so much injury to our plants at the time when
+they are just getting ready to bloom, I use an emulsion made by adding
+two quarts kerosene to one part of laundry soap. The soap should be
+reduced to a liquid, and allowed to become very hot, before the oil is
+added. Then agitate the two rapidly and forcibly until they unite in a
+jelly-like substance. The easiest and quickest way to secure an
+emulsion is by using a brass syringe such as florists sprinkle their
+plants with. Insert it in the vessel containing the oil and soap, and
+draw into it as much of the liquids as it will contain, and then expel
+them with as much force as possible, and continue to do this until the
+desired union has taken place. Use one part of the emulsion to eight or
+ten parts water, and make sure it reaches every portion of the bush.
+
+In Rose-culture, as in every branch of floriculture, the price of
+success is constant vigilance. If you do not get the start of insect
+enemies, and keep them under control, they will almost invariably ruin
+your crop of flowers, and often the bushes themselves. Therefore be
+thorough and persistent in the warfare waged against the common enemy,
+and do not relax your efforts until he is routed.
+
+In making a selection of Hybrid Perpetuals for home planting, the
+amateur finds it difficult to choose from the long lists sent out by
+many dealers. He wants the best and most representative of the class,
+but he doesn't know which these are. If I were asked to select a dozen
+kinds, my choice would be the following:
+
+Alfred Colomb. Bright crimson. Fragrant.
+
+Anna de Diesbach. Carmine. Fragrant.
+
+Baroness Rothschild. Soft pink.
+
+Captain Hayward. Deep rose. Perfect in form.
+
+Frau Carl Druschki. Pure white.
+
+General Jacqueminot. Brilliant crimson. Very sweet.
+
+Jules Margottin. Rosy crimson.
+
+Mabel Morrison. White, delicately shaded with blush.
+
+Magna Charta. Glowing carmine. A lovely flower.
+
+Madame Gabriel de Luizet. Delicate pink. Exquisite.
+
+Mrs. John Laing. Soft pink. Very fragrant.
+
+Ulrich Brunner. Bright cherry red.
+
+To increase the above list would be to duplicate colors, for nearly all
+the other kinds included in the dealers' lists are variations of the
+distinctive qualities of the above. The twelve named will give you more
+pleasure than a larger number of less distinctive kinds would, for in
+each merit stands out pre-eminent, and all the best qualities of the
+best Roses are represented in the list.
+
+
+
+
+THE ROSE AS A SUMMER BEDDER
+
+
+The amateur gardener may enjoy Roses from June to November if he is
+willing to take a little trouble for them. Not, however, with the
+material treated of in the chapter on "The Rose"--though what is said
+in it relative to the culture of the Hybrid Perpetual class applies with
+considerable pertinence to the classes of which I shall make special
+mention in this chapter--but with the summer-blooming sorts, such as the
+Teas, the Bengals, the Bourbons, and the Noisettes. These are classed in
+the catalogues as ever-bloomers, and the term is much more appropriate
+to them than the term Hybrid Perpetual is to that section of the great
+Rose family, for all of the four classes named above _are_ really
+ever-bloomers if given the right kind of treatment--that is, bloomers
+throughout the summer season. In them we find material from which it is
+easy to secure a constant supply of flowers from the beginning of
+summer to the closing in of winter.
+
+In order to grow this class of Roses well, one must understand something
+of their habits. They send out strong branches from the base of the
+plant, shortly after planting, and these branches will generally bear
+from five to eight blossoms. When all the buds on the branch have
+developed into flowers, nothing more can be expected from that branch in
+the way of bloom, unless it can be coaxed to send out other branches.
+This it can be prevailed on to do by close pruning. Cut the old branch
+back to some point along its length--preferably near its base--where
+there is a strong "eye" or bud. If the soil is rich--and it can hardly
+be _too rich_, for these Roses, like those of the kinds treated of in
+the foregoing chapter, require strong food and a great deal of it in
+order to do themselves justice--this bud will soon develop into a
+vigorous branch which, like the original one, will bear a cluster of
+flowers. In order to keep a succession of bloom it is absolutely
+necessary to keep the plant producing new branches, as flowers are only
+borne on new growth. It will be noticed that the treatment required by
+these Roses is almost identical, so far, with that advised for the
+Hybrid Perpetuals. Indeed, the latter are summer ever-bloomers of a
+stronger habit than the class I am now speaking about. That is about all
+the difference there is between them, up to this point, except as
+regards the flowering habit. The Hybrid Perpetual blooms profusely in
+June and July, but sparingly thereafter, while the ever-bloomers bloom
+freely all the season after they get a good start.
+
+Fertilizer should be applied at least once a month. Not in large
+quantities, each time, but enough to stimulate a strong and healthy
+growth. The plants should be kept going ahead constantly. Let them get a
+check, and you will find it a difficult matter to get many flowers from
+them after that, the same season. Give them the treatment that results
+in continuous growth and you will have Roses in abundance up to the
+coming of cold weather. Of course plants so treated are not to be
+expected to attain much size. But who cares for large bushes if he can
+have fine flowers and plenty of them?
+
+The blossoms from the Teas and their kindred are never as large as those
+of the June and the Hybrid Perpetual classes, and, as a general thing,
+are not as brilliant in color. Some are delightfully fragrant, while
+some have no fragrance at all.
+
+La France,--which is classed as a Hybrid Tea, because it is the result
+of hybridizing one of the hardier varieties with a pure-blooded Tea
+variety,--is one of the finest Roses ever grown. It is large, and fine
+in form, rich, though not brilliant, in color, is a very free bloomer,
+and its fragrance is indescribably sweet. Indeed, all the sweetness of
+the entire Rose family seems concentrated in its peculiar, powerful,
+but, at the same time, delicate odor. Color, pale pink.
+
+Duchess de Brabant is an old variety, popular years and years ago, but
+all the better for that, for its long-continued popularity proves it the
+possessor of exceptional merit. It is of very free development, and
+bears large quantities of flowers of silvery pink.
+
+Viscountess Folkestone is, like La France, a Hybrid Tea. It is an
+excellent bloomer. Its color is a soft pink, shaded with cream, with
+reflexed petals. It has a rich, June-Rose fragrance.
+
+Maman Cochet is, all things considered, one of the best of its class. It
+blooms in wonderful profusion. It is a strong grower. Its color is a
+bright pink, overlaid with silvery lustre. It is very double, and quite
+as lovely in bud as in the expanded flower.
+
+[Illustration: TEA ROSE]
+
+Hermosa is an old favorite. It is always in bloom when well cared
+for. Its rich carmine-rose flowers are very double, and are produced in
+prodigal profusion. But it lacks the charm of fragrance.
+
+Caprice is a very peculiar variety. Its thick, waxen petals of rosy
+carmine are heavily blotched and striped with dark red, shading to
+crimson. It is most pleasing when the flower begins to expand.
+
+Perle des Jardins is a most lovely Rose, of almost as rich a color as
+the famous Marechal Neil,--a deep, glowing yellow,--lovely beyond
+description. It is a very free bloomer, and should be given a place in
+all collections.
+
+Sunset--another good bloomer--is a tawny yellow in color, flamed with
+fawn and coppery tints. It is an exquisite Rose.
+
+Clothilde Soupert does not properly belong to either of the four classes
+mentioned above, though of course closely related. It is catalogued as a
+Polyantha. Its habit is peculiar. It bears enormous quantities of
+flowers, with the greatest freedom of any Rose I have ever grown, but
+its blossoms are small, and are produced in clusters quite unlike those
+of the other members of the ever-blooming class. Indeed, its habit of
+growth and flowering is quite like that of the Rambler varieties, on a
+small scale. But, unlike the Ramblers, its flowers are very double. They
+are produced at the extremity of the new branches, in clusters of
+fifteen to twenty and thirty. So many are there to each branch that you
+will find it advisable to thin out half of them if you want perfect
+flowers. In color it is a delicate pink on first opening, fading to
+almost white. At the centre of the flower it is a bright carmine. Give
+this variety a trial and you will be delighted with it.
+
+It must not be understood that the above list includes all the desirable
+sorts adapted to general culture. It is simply a list of the most
+distinct varieties that respond satisfactorily to the treatment
+outlined, and from which the amateur gardener can expect the best
+results. There are scores of other varieties possessing exceptional
+merit, but many of them require the attention of the professional in
+order to give satisfaction, and are not what I feel warranted in
+recommending the amateur to undertake the culture of if large quantities
+of flowers are what he has in mind. Every one on the list given is a
+standard variety, and you will find that you have made no mistake in
+confining your selection to it.
+
+I would advise the purchase of two-year-old plants. Younger plants
+seldom bloom with much profusion the first season.
+
+Order your plants in April. Get them into the ground about the middle of
+May. Mulch the soil about them well. This will do away with the
+necessity of watering if the season happens to prove a dry one. In
+planting, be governed by the directions given in the chapter on "The
+Rose."
+
+Try a bed of these ever-bloomers for a season and you will never
+afterward be without them. Other flowers will rival them in brilliance,
+perhaps, and may require less attention, but--they will not be Roses!
+One fine Rose affords more pleasure to the lover of the best among
+flowers than a whole garden full of ordinary blossoms can, and this is
+why I urge all flower-loving people to undertake the culture of the
+ever-blooming class of Roses, for I know they will give greater
+satisfaction than anything else you can grow.
+
+In fall, the plants can be taken up, packed away in boxes of earth, and
+kept in the cellar over winter. Cut away almost the entire top when the
+plants are lifted. All that one cares to carry through the winter is the
+root of the plant.
+
+
+
+
+THE DAHLIA
+
+
+Thirty or forty years ago the Dahlia was one of our popular flowers.
+That is, popular among those who aspired to "keep up with the times,"
+and grow all the new plants that had real merit in them. At that time
+but one form of it was considered worth growing, and that was the very
+double, globular type of flower. The single varieties were looked upon
+as worthless.
+
+After a time the popularity of the flower waned for some reason hard to
+account for, except on the theory that there are fashions in flowers as
+in clothes. I presume that the true explanation is that we Americans are
+prone to run to extremes, and when we take up a plant and it becomes a
+favorite we overdo matters and tire of it because we see so much of it.
+Then we relegate it to the background for a time, and after awhile we
+drag it out of the obscurity to which we temporarily consigned it as a
+penalty for its popularity, and straightway it comes into greater
+prominence than ever, precisely as does the cut of a sleeve or the style
+of hair-dressing. This explanation may not be very complimentary to
+American good sense or taste, but I think it goes to the root of the
+matter. It is sincerely to be hoped that the time will come when our
+flower-growing will have no trace of the fad about it, and that whatever
+we cultivate will grow into favor solely because of real merit, and that
+its popularity will be permanent. I am encouraged to think that such may
+be the case, for some of the favorite flowers of the day have held their
+own against all newcomers for a considerable period, and seem to be
+growing in favor every year. This is as it should be.
+
+It used to be thought that the Dahlia could not be grown successfully at
+the north if it were not started into growth in the house, or
+greenhouse, very early in the season. Nine times out of ten the result
+was a weak, spindling plant by the time it was safe to put it into the
+ground--which was not until all danger from frost was over. Generally
+such plants were not strong enough to bloom until about the time frost
+came in fall, for it took them the greater part of the season to recover
+from the effect of early forcing, in which the vitality of the plant
+suffered almost to the point of extinction, and to which was added the
+ordeal of the change from in- to out-door conditions. "Our seasons are
+too short for it," was the universal verdict. "At the south it may do
+well, but there's no use in trying to do anything with it at the north
+unless one has a greenhouse, and understands the peculiarities of the
+plant better than the rank and file of flower-loving people can expect
+to." So it came about that its cultivation was given up by small
+gardeners, and it was seen only on the grounds of the wealthier people,
+who could afford the services of the professional gardener.
+
+We have learned, of late years, that our treatment of the plant was
+almost the opposite of what was required.
+
+Some eight or ten years ago, I ordered a collection of choice varieties
+of the Dahlia. I ordered them early in the season, expecting to start
+them into growth in pots as usual. For some reason they did not come
+until the last day of May. It was then too late to start them in the
+usual way, and I planted them in the garden, expecting they would amount
+to nothing.
+
+The result was, to me, a most surprising one.
+
+The place in which I planted them was one whose soil was very rich and
+mellow. It was near a pump, from which a great deal of water was thrown
+out every day.
+
+In less than a week after planting, the tubers threw up strong shoots,
+and these grew very rapidly under the combined effects of rich soil,
+warmth, and plenty of moisture at the roots. Indeed, they went ahead so
+rapidly that I considered their growth a discouraging feature, as I felt
+sure it must be a weak one.
+
+The result was that when the State Horticultural Society held its summer
+meeting in the village in which I resided, on the twenty-eighth of
+August, I placed on exhibition some of the finest specimens of Dahlia
+blossoms the members of the Society had ever seen, and carried off eight
+first premiums.
+
+Since then I have never attempted to start my Dahlias in the house. I
+give them an extremely rich soil, spaded up to the depth of at least a
+foot and a half, and made so mellow that the new roots find it an easy
+matter to work their way through it. Water is applied freely during the
+season. I consider this an item of great importance, as I find that the
+plant fails to make satisfactory development when located in a dry
+place. A pailful of water a day is not too much to apply to each plant
+in a dry season.
+
+The soil must be rich. In a poor soil development will be on a par with
+that of plants which have been given a dry place.
+
+Because of the peculiar brittleness of the stalks of the Dahlia it is
+quite necessary to furnish them with good support. My plan is to set a
+stout stake by each plant, at planting-time. This should be at least
+five feet tall. I put it in place at the time of planting the tuber,
+because then I know just where the root of the future plant is, and can
+set the stake without injuring it. But if stake-setting is left until
+later in the season one runs a risk of breaking off some of the new
+tubers that have formed about the old one. I tie the main stalk of the
+plant to the stake with a strip of cloth instead of a string, as the
+latter will cut into the soft wood. Sometimes, if the plant sends up a
+good many stalks, it will be necessary to furnish additional support.
+Unless some kind of support is given we are likely to get up some
+morning after a heavy rain, or a sudden wind, and find our plants broken
+down, and in attempting to save them we are pretty sure to complete the
+wreck, as a slight twist or turn in the wrong direction will snap the
+stalk off at its junction with the root.
+
+The Dahlia will be found one of our very best plants for use in the
+border where something is needed for a filler. It is very effective as a
+hedge, and can be used to great advantage to hide a fence. Single
+specimens are fine for prominent locations on the grounds about the
+house. In fact, it is a plant that can be made useful anywhere.
+
+[Illustration: CACTUS DAHLIA]
+
+In fall, when our early frosts come, it will be necessary to protect it
+on cool nights, as it is extremely tender. This can be easily done by
+setting some stout sticks about the plant and covering it with a sheet.
+If tided over the frosty weather that usually comes for two or three
+nights about the middle of September, it will bloom profusely during the
+weeks of pleasant weather that almost always follow the early frosts,
+and then is when it will be enjoyed most.
+
+When the frost has killed its stalks, it should be dug and got ready for
+winter. Lift the great mass of roots that will have grown from the
+little tuber planted at the beginning of the season, and do this without
+breaking them apart, if possible. Spread them out in the sun. At night
+cover with a blanket, and next day expose them to sunshine again. Do
+this for several days in succession until the soil that is lifted with
+them will crumble away easily. Exposure to sunshine has the effect of
+relieving them of a good deal of moisture which they contain in great
+quantity when first dug, and which ought to be got rid of, in a large
+degree, before they are stored in the cellar.
+
+The tubers should never be placed on the cellar-bottom, because of the
+dampness that is generally found there. I spread mine out on shelves of
+wire netting, suspended four or five feet from the floor. If they show
+signs of mould I know they are too damp, and elevate the shelves still
+more, in order to get the tubers into a dryer stratum of air. If they
+seem to be shrivelling too much, I lower the shelves a little. Cellars
+differ so much that one can only tell where the right place is by
+experimenting. Watch your tubers carefully. A little neglect will often
+result in failure, as mould, once given a chance to secure a foothold,
+is rapid in its action, and your tubers may be beyond help before you
+discover that there is anything the matter with them. As soon as you
+find a mouldy root, throw it out. If left it will speedily communicate
+its disease to every plant with which it comes in contact. Some persons
+tell me that they succeed in wintering their Dahlia tubers best by
+packing them in boxes of perfectly dry sand. If this is done, be sure
+to elevate the box from the floor of the cellar.
+
+Quite naturally persons have an idea that the best results will be
+secured by planting out the whole bunch of tubers, in spring. This is a
+mistake. One good tuber, with an "eye," or growing point, will make a
+much better plant than the whole bunch set out together.
+
+To sum up the treatment I advise in the cultivation of the Dahlia:
+
+Have the ground very rich.
+
+Have it worked deeply.
+
+Plant single tubers about the first of June.
+
+Furnish a good support.
+
+See that the ground is well supplied with moisture.
+
+There has been a great change of opinion with regard to the Dahlia. We
+no longer confine ourselves to one type of it. The single varieties,
+which were despised of old, are now prime favorites--preferred by many
+to any other kind. The old very double "show" and "fancy" varieties are
+largely grown, but they share public favor with the "decoratives," the
+pompones, and the cactus, and, as I have said, the single forms. Which
+of these forms is most popular it would be hard to say. All of them have
+enthusiastic champions, and the best thing to do is to try them all.
+
+"Show" Dahlias are those with large and very double flowers of a single
+color, and those in which the ground color is of a lighter shade than
+the edges or tips of the petals. The outer petals recurve, as the flower
+develops, until they meet at the stem, thus giving us a ball-like
+blossom.
+
+"Fancy" Dahlias are those having striped petals, and those in which the
+ground color is darker than the edges or tips of the petals. This class,
+as a rule, is very variable, and a plant will often have flowers showing
+but one color. Sometimes half the flower will be one color, half
+another.
+
+The Pompone or Liliputian class is a miniature edition of the show and
+fancy sorts, quite as rich in color and perfect in form as either, but
+of a dwarf habit of growth. This class is well adapted to bedding out in
+summer.
+
+The Cactus Dahlia has long pointed or twisted petals. Most varieties are
+single, but some are semi-double. This is the class that will be likely
+to find favor with those who admire the ragged Japanese Chrysanthemums.
+
+Decorative Dahlias have broad, flat petals, somewhat loosely arranged,
+and much less formal than those of the show, fancy, or pompone sorts.
+Their flowers seldom have more than two rows of petals, and are flat,
+showing a yellow disc at the centre. As a general thing they are
+produced on long stalk, a flower to a stalk. This makes them very useful
+for cutting. They are the most graceful members of the entire Dahlia
+family, allowing me to be judge.
+
+The single type has but one row of petals. Plants of this class are very
+strong growers, and can be used to advantage in the back rows of the
+border.
+
+No flower in cultivation to-day has a wider range of color than the
+Dahlia, and nearly all the colors represented in it are wonderfully rich
+in tone. From the purest white to the richest crimson, the deepest
+scarlet, delicate pink and carmine, rich yellow, dark purple, orange and
+palest primrose,--surely all tastes can find something to please them.
+
+
+
+
+THE GLADIOLUS
+
+
+One of the most popular flowers of the day is the Gladiolus. All things
+considered, it is our best summer bloomer. Nothing in the floral world
+exceeds it in variety and range of color. This color is in some
+varieties dark and rich in scarlets, crimsons, and purples, in others
+dainty and delicate in pink, pearly flesh, almost pure white, and
+softest rose, while the midway sorts are in brilliant carmines,
+cherry-reds, lilacs, and intermediate tones too numerous to mention.
+Nearly all varieties show most magnificent combinations of color that
+baffle description. Comparatively few varieties are one color
+throughout.
+
+Most plants in which such a bewildering variety of color is found have a
+tendency to coarseness, but this objection cannot be urged against the
+Gladiolus. It has all the delicacy of the Orchid. Its habit of growth
+fits it admirably for use in the border. Its ease of cultivation makes
+it a favorite with the amateur who has only a limited amount of time to
+spend among the flowers. It is a plant that any one can grow, and it is
+a plant that will grow almost anywhere. It is one of the few plants that
+seem almost able to take care of themselves. Beyond putting the corms in
+the ground, in spring, and an occasional weeding as the plant develops,
+very little attention is required.
+
+To secure the best effect from it, the Gladiolus should be planted in
+masses. Single specimens are far less satisfactory. One must see fifty
+or a hundred plants in a bed ten or fifteen feet long to fully
+appreciate what it is capable of doing.
+
+The time to plant it is in May, after the soil has become warm. Nothing
+is gained by earlier planting.
+
+The bed should be spaded to the depth of a foot, at least. Then the soil
+should be worked over until it is fine and light. A liberal quantity of
+some good fertilizer should be added to it. Commercial fertilizers seem
+to suit it well, but the use of barnyard manure gives excellent results,
+and I would prefer it, if obtainable.
+
+The corms should be put about four inches below the surface, care being
+exercised at the time of planting to see that they are right side up.
+It is often difficult to decide this matter before sprouting begins,
+but a little careful examination of the corm will soon enable you to
+tell where the sprouts will start from, and this will prevent you from
+getting it wrong-side up. As soon as the plants send up a stalk, some
+provision should be made for future support. If you prefer to stake the
+beds, set the stakes in rows about two feet apart. Wire or cord need not
+be stretched on them until the stalks are half grown. The reason for
+setting the stakes early in the season is--you know just where the corm
+is then, but later on you will not be able to tell where the new corms
+are, and in setting the stakes at random you are quite likely to injure
+them. When you apply the cord or wire to the stakes, run it lengthwise
+of the bed, and then across it in order to furnish a sufficient support
+without obliging the stalks to lean from the perpendicular to get the
+benefit of it.
+
+For several seasons past, I have made use of a coarse-meshed wire
+netting, placed over the bed, and fastened to stakes about eighteen
+inches high. The stalks find no difficulty in making their way through
+the large meshes of the netting, and with a support of this kind they
+dispose themselves in a natural manner that is far more satisfactory
+than tying them to stakes, as we often see done. Some kind of a support
+must be given if we would guard against injury caused by strong winds.
+When the flower-stalk is once prostrated it is a difficult matter to get
+it back in place without breaking it.
+
+If netting is used it need not be placed over the bed before the middle
+of July. By that time most of the weeds which require attention during
+the early part of the season will have been disposed of. Putting on the
+netting at an earlier period would greatly interfere with the proper
+cultivation of the bed. The soil should be kept light and open until the
+flower-stalks begin to show their buds.
+
+The flowering-period covers several weeks, beginning in August, and
+lasting all through September.
+
+The Gladiolus is extremely effective for interior decorative work. It
+lasts for days after being cut. Indeed, if cut when the first flowers at
+the base of the spike open, it will continue to develop the buds above
+until all have become flowers, if the water in which the stalks are
+placed is changed daily, and a bit of the end of the stalk is cut off
+each time. For church use no flower excels it except the Lily, and that
+we can have for only a short time, and quite often not at all.
+
+In late October the plants should be lifted, and spread out in the
+sunshine to ripen. Do not cut the stalks away until you are ready to
+store the corms. Then cut off each stalk about two inches from its
+junction with the corm. When the roots seem well dried out, put them in
+paper bags containing perfectly dry sawdust or buckwheat shells, and
+hang them in a dry place where the frost will not get at them. I would
+not advise storing them in the cellar, as they generally mould or mildew
+there.
+
+Most varieties increase quite rapidly. You will find several new corms
+in fall, taking the place of the old one planted in spring. Often there
+will be scores of little fellows the size of a pea, clustered about the
+larger corms. These should be saved, and planted out next spring. Sow
+them close together in rows, as you would wheat. The following year they
+will bloom.
+
+So extensively is the Gladiolus grown at the present time that enough to
+fill a good-sized bed can be bought for a small sum. And in no other way
+can you invest a little money and be sure of such generous returns. What
+the Geranium is to the window-garden that the Gladiolus is to the
+outdoor garden, and one is of as easy culture as the other.
+
+[Illustration: A GARDEN GLIMPSE]
+
+Some of the choicest varieties are sold at a high price. One reason for
+this is--the finest varieties are slow to increase, and it takes a long
+time to get much of a stock together. This is why they are so rare, and
+so expensive. But many of them are well worth all that is asked for
+them.
+
+You may have a mixed collection of a thousand plants and fail to find a
+worthless variety among them. Indeed, some of the very finest flowers I
+have ever had have been grown from collections that cost so little that
+one hardly expected to find anything but the commonest flowers among
+them.
+
+
+
+
+LILIES
+
+
+The Rose, like the Lily, is a general favorite. It has more than once
+disputed the claim of its rival to the title of Queen of Flowers, and
+though it has never succeeded in taking the place of the latter in the
+estimation of the average flower-lover, it occupies a position in the
+floral world that no other flower dare aspire to.
+
+This plant does well only in soils that have the best of drainage.
+Water, if allowed to stand about its roots in spring, will soon be the
+death of it.
+
+Therefore, in planting it be sure to choose a location that is naturally
+well drained, or provide artificial drainage that will make up for the
+lack of natural drainage. This is an item you cannot afford to overlook
+if you want to grow the finest varieties of Lilies in your garden. Some
+of our native Lilies grow on low lands, and do well there, but none of
+the choicer kinds would long survive under such conditions. The
+probabilities are that if we planted them there we would never see
+anything more of them.
+
+The ideal soil for the Lily seems to be a fine loam. I have grown good
+ones, however, in a soil containing considerable clay and gravel. This
+was on a sidehill where drainage was perfect. Had the location been
+lower, or a level one, very likely the plants would not have done so
+well.
+
+The bulbs should be put into the ground as early in September as
+possible.
+
+On no account allow the bulbs to be exposed to the air. If you do, they
+will rapidly part with the moisture stored up in their scales, and this
+is their life-blood.
+
+It is a good plan to put a handful of clean, coarse sand about each bulb
+at planting-time.
+
+If barnyard manure is used,--and there is nothing better in the way of
+fertilizer for any bulb,--be sure that it is old and well rotted. On no
+account should fresh manure be allowed to come in contact with a Lily.
+If barnyard manure is not to be had, use bonemeal. Mix it well with the
+soil before putting the bulbs into it.
+
+Bulbs of ordinary size should be planted about eight inches below the
+surface. If in groups, about a foot apart.
+
+The best place for Lilies, so far as show goes, is among shrubbery, or
+in the border.
+
+Below I give a list of the best varieties for general cultivation, with
+a brief description of each:
+
+_Auratum_ (the Gold-Banded Lily).--Probably the most popular member of
+the family, though by no means the most beautiful. Flowers white, dotted
+with crimson, with a gold band running through each petal.
+
+_Speciosum album._--A beautiful pure-white variety. Deliciously
+fragrant.
+
+_Speciosum rubrum_ (the Crimson-Banded Lily).--Flowers white with a red
+band down each petal.
+
+_Brownsii._--A splendid variety. Flowers very large, and trumpet-shaped.
+Chocolate-purple outside, pure white within, with dark brown stamens
+that contrast finely with the whiteness of the inner part of the petals.
+
+_Tigrinum_ (Tiger Lily).--One of the hardiest of all Lilies. Flowers
+orange-red, spotted with brownish-black. This will succeed where none of
+the others will. Should be given a place in all gardens.
+
+_Superbum._--The finest of all our native Lilies. Orange flowers,
+spotted with purple. Often grows to a height of eight feet, therefore
+is well adapted to prominent positions in the border.
+
+[Illustration: AURATUM LILY]
+
+While the Lily of the Valley is, strictly speaking, _not_ a Lily, it
+deserves mention here. It is one of the most beautiful flowers we grow,
+of the purest white, and with the most delightful fragrance, and foliage
+that admirably sets off the exquisite loveliness of its flowers. No
+garden that "lives up to its privileges" will be without it. It does
+best in a shady place. Almost any soil seems to suit it. It is very
+hardy. It spreads rapidly, sending up a flower-stalk from every "pip."
+When the ground becomes completely matted with it, it is well to go over
+the bed and cut out portions here and there. The roots thus cut away can
+be broken apart and used in the formation of new beds, of which there
+can hardly be too many. The roots of the old plants will soon fill the
+places from which these were taken, and the old bed will be all the
+better for its thinning-out. Coming so early in spring, we appreciate
+this most beautiful plant more than we do any flower of the later
+season. And no flower of any time can excel it in daintiness, purity,
+and sweetness.
+
+
+
+
+PLANTS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES
+
+
+Amateur gardeners are always wanting plants for some special purpose,
+and, for their benefit, I propose to devote this chapter to
+"special-purpose" information.
+
+"What shall we grow to shade doors and windows? We want something that
+will grow rapidly. If a flowering vine, all the better, but shade is the
+all-important consideration."
+
+The best large-growing vine for this purpose, all things considered, is
+the Wild Cucumber. No other annual vine exceeds it in rapidity of
+growth. It will grow twenty or twenty-five feet in a season, if given
+something to support it to that height, therefore it is very useful
+about the second-story windows, which height few of our annual vines
+attain. It has very bright-green, pretty foliage, somewhat resembling
+that of the native Grape, though not so large. About midsummer it comes
+into bloom. Its flowers are white,--delicate, fringy little things, in
+spikes, with a very agreeable fragrance, especially in the morning when
+wet with dew,--and there are so many of them that the vine looks as if
+drifted over with a fall of snow. The plant has tendrils by which it
+attaches itself to anything with which it comes in contact, consequently
+strings, latticework, or wire netting answer equally well for its
+support. Its tendency is to go straight up, if whatever support is given
+encourages it to do so, but if you think advisable to divert it from its
+upward course all you have to do is to stretch strings in whatever
+direction you want it to grow, and it will follow them. Its flowers are
+followed by balloon-shaped fruit, covered with prickly spines--little
+ball-shaped cucumbers, hence the popular name of the plant. When the
+seeds ripen, the ball or pod bursts open, and the black seeds are shot
+out with considerable force, often to a distance of twenty feet or more.
+In this way the plant soon spreads itself all over the garden, and next
+spring you will have seedling plants by the hundred. It soon becomes a
+wild plant, and is often seen growing all along the roadside, and never
+quite so much "at home" as when it finds a thicket of bushes to clamber
+over. It has one drawback, however, which will be especially noticeable
+when the plant is domesticated: Its early leaves ripen and fall off
+while those farther up the vine are in their prime, and remain so until
+frost comes. But this defect can easily be remedied by growing some tall
+plant at the base of the vines to hide their nakedness.
+
+Another most excellent vine is the good old Morning Glory, with its
+blue, purple, violet, pink, carmine, and white flowers produced in such
+profusion that they literally cover its upper branches during the early
+part of the day. This is a very satisfactory vine to train about door
+and window. Do not give it ordinary twine as a support, as the weight of
+the vines, when well developed, is almost sure to break it down. Stout
+cord, such as is used in binding grain, is the best thing I know of, as
+it is rather rough, thus enabling the vine to take hold of it with good
+effect. This is a rapid grower, and a wonderfully free bloomer, and it
+will give you flowers throughout the season. It is much showier than the
+Wild Cucumber, but its foliage lacks the delicacy which characterizes
+that plant.
+
+Another good vine for covering porches, verandas, and summer-houses, is
+the Japan Hop. This plant--it is an annual, like the other two of which
+mention has been made--has foliage of a rich, dark green, broadly and
+irregularly blotched and marbled with creamy white and pale yellow. It
+grows rapidly, and gives a dense shade.
+
+"I would like a sort of hedge, or screen, between the flower and the
+vegetable garden. What plants would you advise for this purpose?"
+
+The Zinnia is an excellent plant where a low hedge is desired. It
+averages a height of three feet. It is compact and symmetrical in habit,
+branching quite close to the ground. It is a rapid grower, and of the
+very easiest culture. It comes into bloom in July, and continues to
+produce great quantities of flowers, shaped like miniature Dahlias, in
+red, scarlet, pink, yellow, orange, and white, until frost comes. It
+makes a most gorgeous show.
+
+Kochia, more commonly known as "Burning Bush" or "Mexican Fire-Plant,"
+is a charming thing all through the season. In summer it is a pleasing
+green. In fall it turns to a brilliant red, hence its popular names, as
+given above. Its habit is very compact, and one of great symmetry. If
+the plants are set about a foot apart, and in two rows,--these rows a
+foot apart,--you will have a low hedge that will be as smooth as one of
+Arbor Vitae after the gardener has given it its annual shearing. When the
+bush takes on its autumnal coloring it is as showy as a plant can well
+be, and is always sure of attracting attention, and being greatly
+admired.
+
+Amaranthus is another very pleasing plant for hedge purposes. It grows
+to a height of about four feet. Some varieties have a dark, bronze-green
+foliage, others foliage of a dull, rich Indian-red, while some are
+yellow-green--quite rare among plants of this class. The flowers, which
+are small, individually, are thickly set along pendant stems, and give
+the effect of ropes of chenille. In color they are a dull red, not at
+all showy in the sense of brilliance, but really charming when seen
+dropping in great profusion against the richly colored foliage. Our
+grandmothers grew the original varieties of this plant under the name of
+"Prince's Plume," "Prince's Feather," or "Love Lies Bleeding." But since
+the florists have taken it in hand, and greatly improved it, it no
+longer retains the good old names which always meant something. To
+secure the best results with this plant, when grown as a hedge or
+screen, set it in rows about a foot apart, each way, and use some of the
+dwarf sorts for the front row. Or a flowering plant of contrasting
+color--like the Nasturtium, or the double yellow Marigold, or the
+velvety African variety, with flowers of a dark maroon shading to
+blackish-brown--can be grown at its base, with fine effect.
+
+[Illustration: THE ODDS AND ENDS CORNER]
+
+Sweet Peas make a good screen if given proper support, and planted
+thickly.
+
+"I would like a large group or bed of ornamental foliaged plants on the
+lawn, but have grown rather tired of Cannas and Caladiums. What would
+you suggest? I don't want anything hard to grow."
+
+If very large plants are wanted, I would advise, as best of all,
+Ricinus, better known, perhaps, as Castor Bean, or Castor Plant. This is
+an annual of wonderfully vigorous growth. It often reaches a height of
+ten feet, in good soil, with a corresponding spread of branches. Its
+leaves are often a yard across, of a dark coppery bronze, with a
+purplish metallic lustre that makes the plant very striking. The best
+effect is secured by growing four or five plants in a group. None of the
+tropical plants that have come into prominence in gardening, during the
+past ten or twelve years, are nearly as effective as this easily-grown
+annual, whose seeds sell at five cents a package. For a very prominent
+location on the lawn or anywhere about the home-grounds no better plant
+could be selected.
+
+The Amaranthus advised for hedge use makes a very showy circular bed on
+the lawn when grown in large masses, in the centre, surrounded with
+flowering plants of a strongly contrasting but harmonious color. The
+Calliopsis, rich golden-yellow marked with brown, combines charmingly
+with the dull, deep, rich reds which characterize the foliage and
+flowers of the most desirable varieties of this too much neglected
+annual. There are new varieties advertised of rather dwarf habit, with
+golden-green foliage, that could be used about the red-leaved kinds with
+fine effect.
+
+"I would like a bed of very brilliant flowers for the front yard. Can't
+have many, for I haven't time to take care of them, so want those which
+will give the most show for the least trouble. Would like something so
+bright that it will _compel_ people to stop and look at it. What shall I
+get?"
+
+An exceedingly brilliant combination can be made by the use of scarlet
+Salvia, as the centre of a bed six or eight feet across, with Calliopsis
+surrounding it. The scarlet and yellow of these two flowers will make
+the place fairly blaze with color, and they will continue to bloom until
+frost comes. They require next to no care.
+
+The annual Phlox makes a fine show if proper care is taken in the
+arrangement of the various colors with a view to contrast. The pale rose
+variety combines beautifully with the pure whites and pale yellows. A
+bed of these three colors alone will be found much more satisfactory
+than one in which a larger number of colors are used. Set each color in
+a row by itself. Such a bed will "compel" persons to stop and admire it,
+but they will do it for the sake of its beauty rather than its great
+brilliance.
+
+Petunias are excellent plants for large beds where a strong show of
+color is desired. They bloom early, continue through the season, and
+require very little care.
+
+The Shirley Poppy makes a brave show about the last of July, but after
+that it soon dies. If it were an all-season bloomer it would be one of
+our most popular plants for producing a brilliant effect. I would advise
+using it, and filling the bed in which it grew with other plants, after
+its flowering period was over. Its rich colors and satiny texture make
+it a plant that always attracts attention.
+
+Scarlet Geraniums are used a great deal where a strong color-show is
+desired, but they are not as satisfactory as many other plants because
+of their ragged look, after a little, unless constantly given care. The
+first flowers in truss will fade, and their discolored petals will spoil
+the effect of the flowers that come after them if they are allowed to
+remain. It is not much of a task to go over the plants and pull out
+these faded flowers every, day, but we are not likely to do this. I
+prefer single Geraniums to double ones for garden use, because they drop
+their old petals, and never take on the ragged appearance which
+characterizes the ordinary bedding Geranium.
+
+"I would like a low bed--that is, a bed near the path where it will be
+looked down upon. Tall plants would be out of place there. Tell me of a
+few of the best kinds for such a location."
+
+The Portulacca is well adapted to such use, as it never grows to be more
+than three or four inches in height, but spreads in a manner to make it
+look like a green carpet, upon which it displays its flowers of red,
+rose, scarlet, yellow and white with very vivid effect. This plant might
+well be called a vegetable salamander, as it flourishes in dry, hot
+locations where other plants would utterly fail. It fairly revels in the
+hot sunshine of midsummer.
+
+The good old Verbena is another very desirable plant for a low bed. It
+is of spreading habit, blooms profusely and constantly, and comes in a
+wide range of beautiful colors.
+
+The Ageratum is a lovely plant for a low bed, with its great masses of
+soft lavender flowers. Fine effects are secured by using dark yellow
+Coleus or golden Pansies as an edging, these colors contrasting
+exquisitely with the dainty lavender-blue of the Ageratum.
+
+"What flowers shall we grow to cut from? Would like something that is
+not coarse, and something that will bloom for a long time, and has long
+stems."
+
+At the head of the list I would place the Sweet Pea. This is a favorite,
+everywhere, for cutting. The most useful varieties are the delicate rose
+and white ones, the pure whites, the pale pinks, the dainty lavenders,
+and the soft primrose yellows.
+
+The Nasturtium is an old favorite for cutting, and a corner of every
+garden ought to be given up to a few plants of it for the special
+purpose of furnishing cut flowers.
+
+The Aster is a magnificent flower,--it seems to be growing better and
+better each year, if such a thing is possible,--and nothing else among
+the annuals compares with it in lasting quality, when cut. If the water
+in which it is placed is changed daily, it will last for two weeks, and
+seem as fresh at the end of that time as when first cut. The most useful
+variety for cutting is the "Branching Aster," with stems a foot or more
+in length. This makes the flowers of this class particularly useful for
+vases. I would advise growing three colors, when it is wanted solely for
+cutting--white, pale rose, and delicate lavender.
+
+The newer varieties of Dahlia--especially the "decorative" section--are
+superb for cutting. Their flowers are not formal like those of the old
+double kinds, and being borne on long stalks, they can be arranged very
+gracefully. Like the Aster, they last well. They will be found among the
+most useful of our late flowers for large vases, and where striking and
+brilliant effects of color are desired.
+
+The Gladiolus is also well adapted to cutting, and is very effective
+when used in tall vases, the entire stalk being taken.
+
+Scabiosa, often known as "Mourning Bride," is an excellent plant for
+vase-use, and deserves more attention than it has heretofore enjoyed.
+Its flowers are quite unlike most other annuals in color, and will be
+appreciated on that account. The dark purple varieties combine
+delightfully with those of a lighter tone in yellow, and with pure
+whites. As the blossoms are produced on long stems, they dispose
+themselves very gracefully when used in rather deep vases.
+
+Every garden should have several plants of Mignonette in it, grown for
+the especial purpose of cutting from. This is one of the most fragrant
+flowers we have among the annuals.
+
+For small vases--little vases for the breakfast table, or the desk, and
+for gifts to friends--one ought to grow quantities of Heliotropes, Tea
+Roses, and Pansies.
+
+To cut from, early in spring, nothing is lovelier than the Lily of the
+Valley.
+
+For larger vases, the Dicentra is always pleasing, coming close after
+the Lily of the Valley. Cut it with a good deal of foliage, and be
+careful to give each stalk ample room in which to adjust itself. A vase
+with a flaring top is what this flower ought to have, as its stalks have
+just the curve that fits the flare. A straight vase obliges it to stand
+up so primly that half the charm of the flower is destroyed.
+
+For late fall cutting, there is no other flower quite equal to the
+Cosmos. The pink and white varieties are lovely when cut by the branch,
+and used in large vases. They seem especially adapted to church
+decoration.
+
+"We want some flowers that will bloom late in the season. Are there any
+that can be depended on after early frosts?"
+
+Yes. First on the list I would name the Aster. This sturdy annual is
+seldom at its best before the first frosts, and can be considered in its
+prime during the first half of October. And it will last until cold
+weather sets in.
+
+Ten Week Stock--the "Gillyflower" of grandmother's garden--is a late
+bloomer. The snows of November often find it full of flowers, and are
+powerless to injure it. It is delightfully fragrant, and particularly
+adapted to cutting, because of its long spikes of bloom. It comes in
+white, rosy-purple, red, and sulphur-yellow.
+
+The Marguerite Carnation deserves a place in every garden because of its
+great beauty, and its late-flowering habit. While not all the plants
+grown from seed will give double flowers, a large share of them will be
+so, and in form, size, and color they will compare very favorably with
+the greenhouse varieties of this favorite flower. Most of them will have
+the true Carnation fragrance. For choice little bouquets, for home use,
+or to give your especial friends nothing can be more satisfactory. You
+can expect a dozen flowers from each plant where you would get but one
+from the greenhouse sorts.
+
+
+
+
+ARBORS, SUMMER-HOUSES, PERGOLAS, AND OTHER GARDEN FEATURES
+
+
+Few persons who daily pass attractive homes in the suburban districts of
+our large cities and the outlying country, realize that much of their
+charm is due to effects which require a comparatively small outlay in
+dollars and cents. Good taste, combined with a degree of skill that is
+within reach of most of us, represent the chief part of the investment.
+And yet--these little, inexpensive things are the very ones that produce
+the pleasing effects we are all striving after in our efforts to make
+home attractive. Most of them convey an impression of being made for
+use, not show. They are in a class with the broad-seated, wide-armed
+"old hickory" rockers with which we make our modern verandas comfortable
+nowadays, and the hammock swung in shady places, wherein one may lie and
+take his ease, and forget everything but the fact that it is sometimes
+a pleasant thing to be lazy--frankly, unblushingly lazy. It is a healthy
+indication in our American life when so many persons go in for getting
+all the comfort they can from outdoors in summer. Every home whose
+grounds are large enough to accommodate them ought to have benches here
+and there, made for comfort, rather than looks, garden-seats,
+summer-houses--all suggestive of rest and relaxation. In this chapter I
+propose to briefly describe a few such home-made features, hoping that
+the man or boy who has the "knack" of using tools to advantage, actuated
+by a desire to make home-environments pleasant, may be led to copy some
+of them.
+
+Let me say, right here, that the work demanded in the construction of
+rustic features about the home is just the kind of work I would
+encourage boys to undertake. It will be found so enjoyable that it will
+seem more like play than labor. There is the pleasure of planning
+it--the sense of responsibility and importance which comes to the lad
+who sets out to do something "all by himself," and the delightful
+consciousness that what is done may result in making home more
+home-like, and add to the comfort and pleasure of those whose love and
+companionship go to make home the best place on earth.
+
+[Illustration: SUMMER HOUSE]
+
+In constructing summer-houses, bridges, and other rustic work, there
+should be a careful plan made before the work is begun. Never work "by
+guess." Go at the undertaking precisely as the mechanic sets about the
+construction of a house. Draw a diagram of what the structure is to be.
+A rough diagram will answer quite as well as any, provided it covers all
+particulars.
+
+Figure out just how much material the plan calls for. Get this on the
+ground before anything else is done. The material required will be poles
+of different sizes and lengths, large and substantial nails, a few
+planks for floors and benches--possibly tables--and shingles for
+covering such structures as need roofing in, unless bark is used for
+this purpose. Of course bark gives more of a "rustic" look to a roof,
+but it is not an easy matter to obtain a good quality of it, and
+shingles, stained a mossy-green or dark brown, will harmonize charmingly
+with the rest of the building, and furnish a much more substantial roof
+than it is possible to secure with even the best kind of bark.
+
+If possible, use cedar poles in preference to any other, for several
+reasons: First of all, they are more ornamental, because of their bark,
+which is more permanent than that of any other wood. They are light,
+and easy to handle, and take a nail as readily as pine. And then--their
+aromatic odor makes it a constant delight to work among them to those
+who like sweet, fresh, wild-woody smells. But all kinds of poles can be
+substituted for cedar if that is not obtainable. The kind of wood used
+in the construction of rustic work is not a matter of prime importance,
+though it may be, and is, largely a matter of taste. But when we cannot
+do as we would like to we must do the best we can.
+
+Provide yourself with a good saw, a hammer, a square, and a mitre-box.
+These will be all the tools you will be likely to need. Use spikes to
+fasten the larger timbers together, and smaller nails for the braces and
+ornamental work of the design. Speaking of ornamental work reminds me to
+say that the more crooked, gnarled, and twisted limbs and branches you
+can secure, the better will be the effect, as a general thing, for
+formality must be avoided as far as possible. We are not working
+according to a plan of Nature's but we are using Nature's material, and
+we must use it as it comes from Nature's hand in order to make it most
+effective.
+
+Take pains in making joints. If everything is cut to the proper length
+and angle, it will fit together neatly, and only a neat job will be
+satisfactory.
+
+Let me advise the reader who concludes to try his hand at the
+construction of rustic work to confine his selection of design to
+something not very elaborate. Leave that for wealthy people who can
+afford to have whatever their taste inclines them to, without regard to
+cost, and who give the work over to the skilled workman. I am
+considering matters from the standpoint of the home-maker, who believes
+we get more real pleasure out of what we make with our own hands than
+from that which we hire some one to make for us.
+
+In one of the illustrations accompanying this chapter is shown a
+combination summer-house and arbor that is very easily made, and that
+will cost but little. The picture gives so clear an idea of framework
+and general detail that a description does not seem necessary. As a
+considerable weight will have to be supported by the roof, when vines
+have been trained over it, it will be necessary to use stout poles for
+uprights, and to run substantial braces from them to the cross-poles
+overhead. The built-in seats on each side add greatly to the comfort of
+the structure, and invite us to "little halts by the wayside," in which
+to "talk things over," or to quiet hours with a book that would lose
+half its charm if read indoors, as a companion. The original of this
+picture is built over a path that is sometimes used as a driveway, and
+is known as "the outdoor parlor" by the family on whose grounds it
+stands. You will find some member of the family there on every pleasant
+day, throughout the entire season, for it is fitted out with hammocks
+and swinging seats, and a table large enough to serve as tea-table, on
+occasion, with a cover that lifts and discloses a snug box inside in
+which books and magazines can be left without fear of injury in case of
+shower or damp weather. Tea served in such surroundings takes on a
+flavor that it never has indoors. The general design of this
+summer-house, as will readily be seen by the illustration, is simplicity
+itself, and can very easily be copied by the amateur workman.
+
+It often happens that there are ravines or small depressions on the
+home-grounds over which a rustic bridge could be thrown with pleasing
+effect, from the ornamental standpoint, and prove a great convenience
+from the standpoint of practicality. If there is a brook there, all the
+better, but few of us, however, are fortunate enough to be owners of
+grounds possessing so charming a feature, and our bridges must be
+more ornamental in themselves than would be necessary if there was water
+to add its attraction to the spot.
+
+[Illustration: A PERGOLA SUGGESTION]
+
+One of the most delightful summer-houses I have ever seen was largely
+the result of an accident. An old tree standing near a path was broken
+down in a storm, some years ago, and a portion of its trunk was made use
+of as a support for one side of the roof. On the opposite side, rustic
+arches were used. The roof was shingled, and stained a dark green, thus
+bringing it into color-harmony with its surroundings. Over the roof a
+Wistaria was trained, and this has grown to such size that but few of
+the shingles are to be seen through its branches. About this spot the
+home-life of the family centres from April to late October. "We would
+miss it more than any part of the dwelling," its owner and builder said
+to me, when I asked permission to photograph it. I could readily
+understand the regard of the family for so beautiful a place, which, I
+have no doubt, cost less than one of the great flower-beds that we see
+on the grounds of wealthy people, and see without admiring, so formal
+and artificial are they, and so suggestive of professional work
+duplicated in other gardens until the very monotony of them becomes an
+offence to the eye of the man or woman who believes in individuality and
+originality.
+
+Rustic fences between lots are great improvements on the ordinary
+boundary fence, especially if vines are trained over them. They need not
+be elaborate in design to be attractive. If made of poles from which the
+bark has been taken, they should be stained a dark green or brown to
+bring them into harmony with their surroundings.
+
+Screen-frames of rustic work, as a support for vines, to hide unsightly
+outbuildings, are far preferable to the usual one of wood with wire
+netting stretched over it. They will cost no more than one of lattice,
+and will be vastly more pleasing, in every respect.
+
+Gateways can be made exceedingly pleasing by setting posts at each side
+of the gate, and fashioning an arch to connect them, at the top. Train a
+vine, like Ampelopsis, over the upper part of the framework, and you
+make even the simplest gateway attractive.
+
+A garden-seat, with a canopy of vines to shade it, may not be any more
+comfortable, _as a seat_, than any wooden bench, but the touch of beauty
+and grace imparted by the vine that roofs it makes it far more
+enjoyable than an expensive seat without the vine would be to the person
+who has a taste for pleasing and attractive things, simply because it
+pleases the eye by its outlines, thus appealing to the sense of the
+beautiful. Beauty is cheap, when looked at from the right standpoint,
+which is never one of dollars and cents. It is just these little things
+about a place that do so much to make it home-like, as you will readily
+see if, when you find a place that pleases you, you take the trouble to
+analyze the secret of its attractiveness.
+
+The pergola has not been much in evidence among us until of late. A
+rapidly increasing taste for the attractive features of old-world,
+outdoor life in sunny countries where much of the time is spent outside
+the dwelling, and the introduction of the "Italian garden" idea, have
+given it a popularity in America that makes it a rival of the arbor or
+summer-house, and bids fair to make it a thing of permanence among us.
+
+The question is frequently asked by those who have read about pergolas,
+but have never seen one, as to wherein they differ from the ordinary
+arbor. The difference is more in location, material, and manner of
+construction than anything else. They are generally built of timber that
+can be given a coating of paint, with more or less ornamental pillars
+or supports and rafters, and are constructed along definite
+architectural lines. They are, in fact, ornamental structures over which
+vines are to be trained loosely with a view to tempering the sunshine
+rather than excluding it. The framework of the arbor, as a general
+thing, is considered secondary to the effect produced by it when the
+vines we plant about it are developed. But, unlike the Americanized
+pergola, the arbor is almost always located in a retired or
+inconspicuous part of the home-grounds, and is seldom found connected
+with the dwelling. To get the benefit of the arbor, or the summer-house
+we evolve from it, we must go to it, while the pergola, as adapted by
+most of us, brings the attractive features of out-door life to the
+house, thus combining out- and in-door life more intimately than
+heretofore. One of the illustrations accompanying this chapter shows a
+very simple pergola framework--one that can be built cheaply, and by any
+man or boy who is at all "handy with tools," and can be used as a plan
+to work from by anyone who desires to attach a modification of the
+pergola proper to the dwelling, for the purpose of furnishing shade to
+portions of it not provided with verandas. It will require the
+exercise of but little imagination to enable one to see what a charming
+feature of the home such a structure will be when vines have been
+trained over it. There are many homes that would be wonderfully improved
+by the addition of something of this kind, with very little trouble and
+expense. It is to be hoped that many a housewife can prevail on the
+"men-folks" to interest themselves on pergola-building on a small scale,
+as indicated in the illustration, for practical as well as ornamental
+reasons. Anything that will take the occupants of the dwelling out of
+doors is to be encouraged. Especially would the women of the household
+enjoy a vine-shaded addition of this kind, during the intervals of
+leisure that come during the day, and the head of the family would find
+it an ideal place in which to smoke his evening pipe. In several
+respects it can be made much more satisfactory than a veranda. It can be
+made larger--roomier, and there will be more of an out-door atmosphere
+about it because of its airiness, and the play of light and shade
+through the vines that clamber overhead. Pergolas of elaborate design
+need not be described here, as they properly belong to homes not made
+attractive by the individual efforts of the home owner. They are better
+adapted to the grounds of wealthy people, who are not obliged to
+consider expense, and who are not actively interested in the development
+of the home by themselves.
+
+[Illustration: A SIMPLE PERGOLA FRAMEWORK]
+
+What vines would I advise for use about arbors, summer-houses, and
+pergolas?
+
+The Wild Grape, though not much used, is one of our best native vines.
+It has the merit of rapid growth, entire hardiness, luxuriant foliage
+and delightful habit, and when in bloom it has a fragrance that is as
+exquisite as it is indescribable--one of those vague, elusive, and yet
+powerful odors so characteristic of spring flowers. You will smell
+it--the air will be full of it--and yet it will puzzle you to locate it.
+The wind will blow from you and it will be gone. Then a breeze will blow
+your way, and the air will suddenly be overpoweringly sweet with the
+scent shaken free from blossoms so small as to be hardly noticeable
+unless one makes a careful search for them. Then, too, the fruit is not
+only attractive to the eye in fall, but pleasant to the taste of those
+who delight in the flavor of wild things, among whom we must class the
+robins, who will linger about the vine until the last berry is gone.
+
+[Illustration: GARDENER'S TOOL-HOUSE]
+
+Another most excellent vine for covering these structures is our
+native Ampelopsis, better known as American Ivy, or Virginia Creeper.
+This vine is of exceedingly rapid growth, and will accomplish more in
+one season than most other vines do in two or three years. Its foliage
+is beautiful at all times, but especially so in late autumn when it
+takes on a brilliance that makes it a rival of the flower. In fact,
+every leaf of it seems all at once to become a flower, glowing with
+scarlet and maroon of varying shades, with here and there a touch of
+bronze to afford contrast and heighten the intensity of the other
+colors. This vine is perhaps the best of all vines for use on rustic
+structures, because it takes hold of rough poles and posts with stout
+little tendrils or sucker-like discs which ask for no assistance from us
+in the way of support.
+
+Another most charming vine is Clematis _paniculata_. This is a variety
+of the Clematis family of comparatively recent introduction, quite
+unlike the large-flowering class. It has white flowers, small
+individually, but produced in such enormous quantities that the upper
+portions of the vine seem to be covered with foam, or a light fall of
+snow. They will entirely hide the foliage with their dainty, airy grace,
+and you will declare, when you first see the plant in full bloom, that
+it is the most beautiful thing you ever saw in the way of a vine. And
+not the least of its merits is its habit of flowering at a time when
+most vines have passed into the sere-and-yellow-leaf period. September
+and October see it in its prime. Its foliage, of dark, rich, glossy
+green, furnishes a most pleasing background against which its countless
+panicles of white bloom stand out with most striking and delightful
+effect. I have no knowledge of a more floriferous vine, and I know of no
+more beautiful one. As a covering for the pergola attached to the house
+it is unrivalled.
+
+In the southern belt of our northern states, where the Wistaria is hardy
+enough to withstand the winter, no more satisfactory flowering vine can
+be chosen for a pergola covering. Its habit of growth and flowering
+seems perfectly in harmony with the primary idea of the pergola. It will
+furnish all the shade that is needed without shutting out the sunshine
+entirely, and its pendant clusters of lavender-blue flowers are never
+more pleasing than when seen hanging between the cross-bars of the
+pergola.
+
+If the person who builds a summer-house or a pergola is impatient for
+results it will be well to make use of annual vines for covering it the
+first season, though something of a more permanent nature should always
+be planned for. One of our best annuals, so far as rapidity of growth is
+concerned, is the Wild Cucumber, of which mention was made in the
+preceding chapter. Because of its rapid development, the usefulness of
+the plant for immediate effects will be readily understood. But it is
+valuable only as a substitute for something more substantial and should
+not be depended on after the first season. It lacks the dignity and
+strength of a permanent vine.
+
+The Morning Glory will be found very effective for a first-season
+covering. This vine is prodigal in its production of flowers. Every
+sunny day, throughout the season, it will be covered with blossoms, so
+many in number that they make a veritable "glory" of the forenoon hours.
+
+Another excellent annual is the Japan Hop. This will perhaps afford
+better satisfaction than the Wild Cucumber or the Morning Glory, because
+its foliage bears some resemblance to that of the hardy vines of which I
+have spoken. In other words, it has more substance and dignity, and
+therefore seems more in harmony with the structure over which it is
+trained. Its leaves have a variegation of creamy white on a dark green
+ground. This makes it as ornamental as if it were a flowering plant.
+
+Every home ought to have its "playhouse" for children. If fitted with
+screens to keep out mosquitoes, the younger members of the family,
+especially the girls, will literally "live in it" for six months of the
+year. I would suggest fitting it with canvas curtains to shut out wind
+and rain. I would also advise making it of good size, for the children
+will take delight in entertaining visitors in it, and a tiny structure
+is not convenient for the entertainment of "company." Such a building
+can be made as ornamental as any arbor or pergola at slight cost, when
+vines are used to hide the shortcomings of its material and
+construction. Be sure it will be appreciated by the little folks, and
+quite likely some of the "children of a larger growth" will dispute its
+occupancy with them, at times, if there is no other building of its kind
+about the place.
+
+
+
+
+CARPET-BEDDING
+
+
+Carpet-Bedding is not the most artistic phase of gardening, by any
+means, but it has a great attraction for many persons who admire masses
+of harmonious and contrasting colors more than the individual beauty of
+a flower. Therefore a chapter on this subject will no doubt be gladly
+welcomed by those who have seen the striking effects secured by the use
+of plants having ornamental or richly colored foliage, in our large
+public parks, and on the grounds of the wealthy.
+
+Let me say, just here, that the person who attempts what, for want of a
+better name, might be called pictorial gardening, is wise if he selects
+a rather simple pattern, especially at the outset of his career in this
+phase of garden-work. Intricate and elaborate designs call for more
+skill in their successful working out than the amateur is likely to be
+master of, and they demand a larger amount of time and labor than the
+average amateur florist will be likely to expend upon them. And the
+fact should never be lost sight of that failure to give all the care
+needed brings about most discouraging results. This being the case,
+select a design in which the effect aimed at can be secured by broad
+masses of color, depending almost wholly on color-contrast for pleasing
+results. Bear in mind that this "school" of pictorial art belongs to the
+"impressionistic" rather than the "pre-Raphaelite," about which we hear
+so much nowadays, and leave the fine work to the professional gardener,
+or wait until you feel quite sure of your ability to attempt it with a
+reasonably good show of success.
+
+Some persons are under the impression that flowering plants can be used
+to good effect in carpet-bedding. This is not the case, however. In
+order to bring out a pattern or design fully and clearly, it is
+absolutely necessary that we make use of plants which are capable of
+giving a solid color-effect. This we obtain from foliage, but very few
+flowering plants are prolific enough of bloom to give the desired
+result. The effect will be thin and spotty, so never depend on them.
+Quite often they can be used in combination with plants having
+ornamental foliage in such a manner as to secure pleasing results, but
+they always play a secondary part in this phase of gardening.
+
+The best plants to use in carpet-bedding are the following:
+
+Coleus, in various shades of red, maroon, and scarlet, light and dark
+yellow, green and white, and varieties in which colors and shades of
+color are picturesquely blended.
+
+Achyranthes, low-growing plants in mixtures of red, pink, yellow and
+green.
+
+Alternatheras, similar to Achyranthes in habit, but with red as a
+predominating color. Both are excellent for working out the finer
+details of a design.
+
+Pyrethrum--"Golden Feather"--with feathery foliage of a tawny yellow.
+
+Centaurea _gymnocarpa_,--"Dusty Miller,"--with finely-cut foliage of a
+cool gray.
+
+Geranium Madame Salleroi--with pale green and white foliage. This is a
+most excellent plant for use in carpet-bedding because of its close,
+compact habit of growth, and its very symmetrical shape which is
+retained throughout the entire season without shearing or pruning.
+
+It must be borne in mind by the amateur florist that success in
+carpet-bedding depends nearly as much on the care given as on the
+material used. In order to bring out a design sharply, it is necessary
+to go over the bed at least twice a week and cut away all branches that
+show a tendency to straggle across the boundary line of the various
+colors. Run your pruning shears along this line and ruthlessly cut away
+everything that is not where it belongs. If this is not done, your
+"pattern" will soon become blurred and indistinct. If any intermingling
+of colors "from across the line" is allowed, all sharpness of outline
+will be destroyed.
+
+The plants must be clipped frequently to keep them dwarf and compact.
+Make it a point to keep the larger-growing kinds, such as Coleus,
+Pyrethrum and Centaurea, under six inches in height rather than over it.
+Alternatheras and Achyranthes will need very little shearing, as to top,
+because of their habit of low growth.
+
+In setting these plants in the bed, be governed by the habit of each
+plant. Achyranthes and Alternatheras, being the smallest, should be put
+about four inches apart. Give the Coleus about six inches of lee-way,
+also the Centaurea. Allow eight inches for Madame Salleroi Geranium and
+Pyrethrum. These will soon meet in the row and form a solid line or mass
+of foliage.
+
+So many persons have asked for designs for carpet-bedding, that I will
+accompany this chapter with several original with myself which have
+proved very satisfactory. Some of them may seem rather complicated, but
+when one gets down to the business of laying them out, the seeming
+complications will vanish.
+
+In laying out all but the star-shaped and circular beds, it is well to
+depend upon a square as the basis to work from. Decide on the size of
+bed you propose to have, and then stake out a square as shown by the
+dotted lines in design No. 1, and work inside this square in filling in
+the details. If this is done, the work will not be a difficult one.
+
+[Illustration: No. 1.]
+
+Design No. 1 will be found easy to make and admits of many pleasing
+combinations and modifications. Each gardener who sees fit to adopt any
+of these designs should study out a color-scheme of his own. Knowing the
+colors of the material he has to work with it will not be difficult to
+arrange these colors to suit individual taste. I think this will be more
+satisfactory than to give any arbitrary arrangement of colors, for half
+the pleasure of gardening consists in originating things of this kind,
+rather than copying what some one else has originated, or of following
+instructions given by others. This does not apply so much to designs for
+beds as it does to the colors we make use of in them.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2.]
+
+In the designs accompanying this chapter it will be seen that simple
+plans are made capable of producing more elaborate effects by making use
+of the dotted lines. Indeed, one can make these designs quite intricate
+by dividing the different spaces as outlined in No. 2. A plain centre
+with a plain point, as shown in _a_, shows the bed in its very simplest
+form. In _g_, _c_, and _d_, we see these points with three different
+arrangements suggested, and the dotted line in the central portion
+indicates a change that can be made there that will add considerably to
+the effectiveness of the design. A little study of other designs will, I
+think, make them so plain that they can be worked out with but little
+trouble.
+
+[Illustration: No. 3.]
+
+I would suggest that before deciding on any color-combinations, a rough
+diagram be made of whatever bed you select and that this be colored to
+correspond with the material you have to work with. Seeing these colors
+side by side on paper will give you a better idea of the general effect
+that will result from any of your proposed combinations than you can get
+in any other way, and to test them in this manner may prevent you from
+making some serious mistakes.
+
+[Illustration: No. 4.]
+
+It will be necessary to go over the beds every day or two and remove all
+dead or dying leaves. Neatness is an item of the greatest importance in
+this phase of gardening, or any other, for that matter.
+
+[Illustration: No.5.]
+
+Large plants can be used in the centre of any of these designs, if one
+cares to do so, with very good effect. For this purpose we have few
+plants that will give greater satisfaction than the Dahlia. Scarlet
+Salvia would be very effective if yellow Coleus were used about it, but
+it would not please if surrounded with red Coleus, as the red of the
+plant and the red of the flower would not harmonize. A Canna of rich,
+dark green would make a fine centre plant for a bed in which red Coleus
+served as a background. One of the dark copper-colored varieties would
+show to fine effect if surrounded with either yellow Pyrethrum or gray
+Centaurea.
+
+[Illustration: No. 6.]
+
+Ageratum, with its delicate lavender-blue flowers, can be made extremely
+attractive in combination with yellow Coleus. A pink Geranium surrounded
+with gray Centaurea would be delightful in the harmony that would result
+from a combination of these colors.
+
+[Illustration: No. 7.]
+
+[Illustration: No. 8.]
+
+Nos. 7 and 8 illustrate the simplest possible form of bed. No. 7 is
+designed for plants to be set in rows. In a bed of this kind flowering
+plants can be used more effectively than in any of the others. Pink,
+white, and pale yellow Phlox would be very pretty in such a combination.
+No. 8 would be quite effective if each of the five sections were of a
+different color of Coleus. Or the whole star might be of a solid color,
+with a border of contrasting color. Red Coleus with Madame Salleroi
+Geranium as a border would look well. So would yellow Coleus edged with
+Centaurea.
+
+
+
+
+FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR EDGING BEDS AND WALKS
+
+
+We do not lay as much stress on edging beds and walks with flowering
+plants as formerly, but the practice is a most pleasing one, and ought
+not to be neglected. It is one of the phases of gardening that has been
+allowed to fall into disuse, to a considerable extent, but there are
+already signs that show it is coming back to its old popularity, along
+with the old-fashioned flowers that are now more in favor than ever
+before. This is as it should be.
+
+A bed without a pretty border or edging always seems incomplete to me.
+It is as if the owner of it ran short of material before it was
+finished. The bit of lace or ribbon that is to add the last touch of
+grace and beauty to the gown is lacking.
+
+Especially is a border of flowering plants satisfactory if kinds are
+selected which bloom throughout the greater part of the season. The
+plants we make use of in the centre of the bed are not always attractive
+before they come into bloom, neither are they that after they have
+passed their prime, but a pretty edging of flowers draws attention from
+their shortcomings, and always pleases.
+
+One of our best flowering plants for edging purposes is Candytuft. It
+comes into bloom early in the season, and blooms in great profusion
+until the coming of frost. Keep it from developing seed and it will
+literally cover itself with bloom. I would advise going over it twice a
+week and clipping off every cluster of faded blossoms. This answers two
+purposes--that of preventing the formation of seed, and of removing what
+would be a disfigurement to the plant if it were allowed to remain.
+
+There are two varieties of Candytuft in cultivation--one white, the
+other a dull red. The white variety is the one most persons will select,
+as it harmonizes with all other plants. But the red sort is very
+pleasing when used with harmonious colors. I last year saw a bed of
+Nasturtium bordered with it, and the effect was delightful. Its dull
+color blended well with the richer, stronger tones of the Nasturtium
+flowers, and gave them an emphasis that was suggestive of the effect of
+dull, rich colors used in old rugs in heightening and bringing out, by
+contrast, the brighter colors.
+
+In using Candytuft for edging, set the plants about a foot apart. I
+would advise two rows of them, placing the plants in such a manner that
+they alternate in the rows. Do not attempt to train them. Let them do
+that for themselves. One of their most attractive features is their lack
+of formality when allowed to grow to suit themselves. Very pleasing
+results are secured by using the white and red varieties together, the
+colors alternating. If the centre of the bed is filled with "Golden
+Feather" Pyrethrum and these two Candytufts are used as an edging, the
+effect will be very fine as the dull red admirably supplements the
+greenish-yellow color of the Pyrethrum, while the white relieves what,
+without it, would be too sombre a color-scheme.
+
+Sweet Alyssum is excellent for edging purposes. Its general effect is
+quite similar to that of the white Candytuft, but it has greater
+delicacy of both bloom and foliage, and the additional merit of a
+delightful fragrance.
+
+Ageratum is lovely for edging beds of pink Geraniums, its soft lavender
+tones being in perfect harmony with their color. It is equally
+satisfactory when used with pale rose Phlox Drummondi, or the soft
+yellow shades of that flower. Combine the three colors in a bed and you
+will have something unusually dainty and delightful. One of the
+prettiest beds I saw last summer was filled with Sweet Alyssum, and
+edged with Ageratum. If there was any unfavorable criticism to be made,
+it was that a touch of some brighter, stronger color was needed to
+relieve its white and lavender. A free-flowering rose-colored Geranium
+in its centre, or a pink Verbena, would have added much to the general
+effect, I fancy. As it was, it was suggestive of old blue-and-white
+Delft, and the collector of that ware would have gone into raptures over
+it.
+
+For a permanent edging, for beds, paths, and the border, Bellis
+_perennis_, whose popular name is English Daisy, is one of the best of
+all plants. It is entirely hardy. It blooms early in the season. It is
+wonderfully generous in its production of flowers. These are small, and
+very double, some pink, some almost white, produced on short stems which
+keep them close to the ground and prevent them from straggling. Its
+thick, bright green foliage furnishes a charming background against
+which the blossoms display themselves effectively. It is a plant that
+does well everywhere, and is always on good terms with everything else
+in the garden, as will be seen by the illustration that shows it in full
+bloom, along with Pansies and Hyacinths. Because of its compact,
+non-straggling habit it is especially useful for bordering paths and the
+border, permitting the use of the lawn-mower or the rake with perfect
+freedom. Plants should be set about eight inches apart. If you have but
+few plants of it and desire more, pull the old plants apart in spring
+and make a new one out of each bit that comes away with a piece of root
+attached. By fall the young plants will have grown together and formed a
+solid mass of foliage, with a great many "crowns" from which flowers
+will be produced the following season. Florists can generally furnish
+seedling plants in spring, from which immediate effects can be secured
+by close planting.
+
+[Illustration: A BORDER OF CREEPING PHLOX]
+
+One of the best--if not _the_ best--plants for all-around use in edging
+is Madame Salleroi Geranium. It is quite unlike any other Geranium of
+which I have any knowledge, in general habit. It forms a bushy, compact
+plant, and bears a solid mass of foliage. No attention whatever is
+required in the way of pruning. The plant trains itself. The ordinary
+flowering Geranium must be pinched back, and pruned constantly to
+prevent it from becoming "leggy," but there is no trouble of this
+kind with Madame Salleroi. Its branches, of which there will often be
+fifty or more from a plant, are all sent up from the crown of the plant,
+and seldom grow to be more than five or six inches in length. Each
+branch may have a score of leaves, borne on stems about four inches
+long. These leaves are smaller than those of any other Geranium. Their
+ground color is a pale green, and every leaf is bordered with creamy
+white. This combination of color makes the plant as attractive as a
+flowering one. It is a favorite plant for house-culture in winter, and
+those who have a specimen that has been carried over can pull it apart
+in May and plant each bit of cutting in the ground where it is to grow
+during summer, feeling sure that not one slip out of twenty will fail to
+grow if its base is inserted about an inch deep in soil which should be
+pinched firmly about it to hold it in place while roots are forming. Set
+the cuttings about ten inches apart. By midsummer the young plants will
+touch each other, and from that time on to the coming of frost your
+border will be a thing of beauty, and one of the delightful things about
+it will be--it will require no attention whatever from you. Never a
+branch will have to be shortened to keep it within bounds. No support
+will be needed. The plants will take care of themselves. I have never
+had a plant that is easier to grow. It harmonizes with everything. Seen
+against the green of the lawn it is charming. All things considered, it
+is an ideal plant for edging. In combination with scarlet and yellow
+Coleus it is exceedingly effective, because of its strong
+color-contrast.
+
+Most amateur gardeners are familiar with the various merits of Coleus,
+Alternatheras, Achyranthes, "Golden Feather" Pyrethrum, and Centaurea
+_maritima_, better known as "Dusty Miller" because of its gray foliage.
+These are all good, when properly cared for, when used for edging beds
+and borders. Especially so when used with Cannas, Caladiums, and other
+plants of striking foliage, where their rich colors take the place of
+flowers.
+
+Phlox _decussata_, commonly known as "Moss Pink" because of its fine
+foliage and bright pink flowers, is a most excellent plant for the hardy
+border, because it stands our winters quite as well as the hardiest
+perennials. Early in spring it will cover itself with charming blossoms
+that are as cheerful to look at as the song of the robin or the blue
+bird is to hear. It is a lovable little thing, and has but one rival
+among early-flowering plants for edging, and that rival is the English
+Daisy.
+
+
+
+
+PLANNING THE GARDEN
+
+
+The flower garden not being one of the necessities of life, in the usual
+sense of the term, people are likely to consider the making of it of so
+little importance that it is hardly worth while to give the matter much
+consideration. Consequently they simply dig up a bed here and there, sow
+whatever seed they happen to have, and call the thing done.
+
+A haphazard garden of that sort is never satisfactory. In order to make
+even the smallest garden what it ought to be it should be carefully
+planned, and every detail of it well thought out before the opening of
+the season.
+
+To insure thoroughness in this part of the work I would advise the
+garden-maker to make a diagram of it as he thinks he would like to have
+it. Sketch it out, no matter how roughly. When you have a map of it on
+paper you will be able to get a much clearer idea of it than you can
+obtain from any merely mental plan.
+
+After locating your beds, decide what kind of flower you will have in
+each one. But before you locate your plants study your catalogue
+carefully, and make yourself familiar with the heights and habits of
+them. Quite likely this will lead to a revision of your mental diagram,
+for you may find that you have proposed to put low-growing kinds in the
+rear of tall-growing sorts, and tall-growing kinds where they would
+seriously interfere with the general effect.
+
+Bear in mind that there is always a proper place for each plant you make
+use of--if you can find it. The making of a working diagram and the
+study of the leading characteristics of the plants you propose to use
+will help you to avoid mistakes that might seriously interfere with the
+effectiveness of your garden.
+
+Do not attempt more than you are sure of your ability to carry through
+well. Many persons allow the enthusiasm of the spring season to get the
+better of their judgment, and lead them into undertaking to do so much
+that after a little the magnitude of the work discourages them, and, as
+a natural result, the garden suffers seriously, and often proves a sad
+failure. Bear in mind that a few really good plants will give a
+hundredfold more pleasure than a great many mediocre ones. Therefore
+concentrate your work, and aim at quality rather than quantity. Never
+set out to have so large a garden that the amount of labor you have to
+expend on it will be likely to prove a burden rather than a pleasurable
+recreation.
+
+[Illustration: IN SUMMER]
+
+[Illustration: IN WINTER]
+
+Do not attempt anything elaborate in a small garden. Leave fancy beds
+and striking designs to those who have a sufficient amount of room at
+their disposal to make them effective.
+
+I would advise keeping each kind of plant by itself, as far as possible.
+Beds in which all colors are mixed promiscuously are seldom pleasing
+because there are sure to be colors there that are out of harmony with
+others, and without color-harmony a garden of most expensive plants must
+prove a failure to the person of good taste.
+
+I would not, therefore, advise the purchase of "mixed" seed, in which
+most persons invest, because it is cheaper than that in which each color
+is by itself. This may cost more, but it is well worth the additional
+expense. Take Phlox Drummondi as an illustration of the idea governing
+this advice: If mixed seed is used, you will have red, pink, mauve,
+scarlet, crimson, violet, and lilac in the same bed,--a jumble of colors
+which can never be made to harmonize and the effect of which will be
+very unpleasant. On the other hand, by planning your bed in advance of
+making it, with color-harmony in mind, you can so select and arrange
+your colors that they will not only harmonize, but afford a contrast
+that will heighten the general effect greatly. For instance, you can use
+rose-color, white and pale yellow varieties together, or scarlet and
+white, or carmine and pale yellow, and these combinations will be in
+excellent harmony, and give entire satisfaction. The mauves, lilacs, and
+violets, to be satisfactory, should only be used in combination with
+white varieties. I am speaking of the Phlox, but the rule which applies
+to this plant applies with equal force to all plants in which similar
+colors are to be found.
+
+If there are unsightly places anywhere about the grounds aim to hide
+them under a growth of pretty vines. An old fence can be made into a
+thing of beauty when covered with Morning Glories or Nasturtiums. By the
+use of a trellis covered with Sweet Peas, or a hedge of Zinnia, or of
+Cosmos, we can shut off the view of objectionable features which may
+exist in connection with the garden. Outhouses can be completely hidden
+in midsummer by planting groups of Ricinus about them, and filling in
+with Hollyhocks, and Delphinium, and Golden Glow, and other
+tall-growing plants. In planning your garden, study how to bring about
+these desirable results.
+
+Keep in mind the fact that if you go about garden-making in a haphazard
+way, and happen to get plants where they do not belong, as you are quite
+likely to do unless you know them well, you have made a mistake which
+cannot be rectified until another season. This being the case, guard
+against such mistakes by making sure that you know just what plant to
+use to produce the effect you have in mind.
+
+Plan to have a selection of plants that will give flowers throughout the
+entire season. The majority of annuals bloom most profusely in June and
+July, but the prevention of seed-development will force them into bloom
+during the later months.
+
+Plan to have a few plants in reserve, to take the places of those which
+may fail. Something is liable to happen to a plant, at any time, and
+unless you have material at hand with which to make good the loss, there
+will be a bare spot in your beds that will be an eye-sore all the rest
+of the season.
+
+Plan to have the lowest growers near the path, or under the sitting-room
+windows where you can look down upon them.
+
+Plan to have a back-yard garden in which to give the plants not needed
+in the main garden a place. There will always be seedlings to thin out,
+and these ought not to be thrown away. If planted in some out-of-the-way
+place they will furnish you with plenty of material for cutting, and
+this will leave the plants in the main garden undisturbed.
+
+
+
+
+THE BACK-YARD GARDEN
+
+
+A great deal is written about the flower-garden that fronts the street,
+or is so located that it will attract the passer-by, but it is seldom
+that we see any mention made of the garden in the back-yard. One would
+naturally get the idea that the only garden worth having is the one that
+will attract the attention of the stranger, or the casual visitor.
+
+I believe in a flower-garden that will give more pleasure to the home
+and its inmates than to anyone else, and where can such a garden be
+located with better promise of pleasurable results than by the kitchen
+door, where the busy housewife can blend the brightness of it with her
+daily work, and breathe in the sweetness of it while about her indoor
+tasks? It doesn't matter if its existence is unknown to the stranger
+within the gates, or that the passer-by does not get a glimpse of it. It
+works out its mission and ministry of cheer and brightness and beauty in
+a way that makes it the one garden most worth having. Ask the busy
+woman who catches fleeting glimpses of the beauty in it as she goes
+about her work, and she will tell you that it is an inspiration to her,
+and that the sight of it rests her when most weary, and that its
+nearness makes it a companion that seems to enter into all her moods.
+
+Last year I came across such a garden, and it pleased me so much that I
+have often looked back to it with a delightful memory of its homeliness,
+its utter lack of formality, and wished that it were possible for me to
+let others see it as I saw it, for, were they to do so, I feel quite
+sure every home would have one like it.
+
+"I never take any pains with it," the woman of the home said to me, half
+apologetically. "That is, I don't try to make it like other folks'
+gardens. I don't believe I'd enjoy it so much if I were to. You see, it
+hasn't anything of the company air about it. It's more like the neighbor
+that 'just drops in' to sit a little while, and chat about neighborhood
+happenings that we don't dare to speak about when some one comes to make
+a formal call. I love flowers so much that it seemed as if I must have a
+few where I could see them, while I was busy in the kitchen. You know, a
+woman who does her own housework can't stop every time she'd like to to
+run out to the front-yard garden. So I began to plant hardy things here,
+and I've kept on ever since, till I've quite a collection, as you see.
+Just odds and ends of the plants that seem most like folks, you know. It
+doesn't amount to much as a garden, I suppose most folks would think,
+but you've no idea of the pleasure I get out of it. Sometimes when I get
+all fagged out over housework I go out and pull weeds in it, and hoe a
+little, and train up the vines, and the first I know I'm ready to go
+back to work, with the tired feeling all gone. And do you know--the
+plants seem to enjoy it as much as I do? They seem to grow better here
+than I could ever coax them to do in the front yard. But that's probably
+because they get the slops from the kitchen, and the soap-suds, every
+wash-day. It doesn't seem as if I worked among them at all. It's just
+play. The fresh air of outdoors does me more good, I'm sure, than all
+the doctors' tonics. And I'm not the only one in the family that enjoys
+them. The children take a good deal of pride in 'mother's garden,' and
+my husband took time, one day, in the busiest part of the season, to put
+up that frame by the door, to train Morning Glories over."
+
+In this ideal home-garden were old-fashioned Madonna Lilies, such as I
+had not seen for years, and Bouncing Bets, ragged and saucy as ever, and
+Southernwood, that gave off spicy odors every time one touched it, and
+Aquilegias in blue and white and red, Life Everlasting, and Moss Pink,
+and that most delicious of all old-fashioned garden flowers, the Spice
+Pink, with its fringed petals marked with maroon, as if some wayside
+artist had touched each one with a brush dipped in that color for the
+simple mischief of the thing, and Hollyhocks, Rockets--almost all the
+old "stand-bys." There was not one "new" flower there. If it had been,
+it would have seemed out of place. The Morning Glories were just getting
+well under way, and were only half-way up the door-frame, but I could
+see, with my mind's eye, what a beautiful awning they would make a
+little later. I could imagine them peering into the kitchen, like saucy,
+fun-loving children, and laughing good-morning to the woman who "loved
+flowers so well she couldn't get along without a few."
+
+You see, she was successful with them because she loved them. Because of
+that, the labor she bestowed upon them was play, not work. They were
+friends of hers, and friendship never begrudges anything that gives
+proof of its existence in a practical way. And the flowers, grateful for
+the friendship which manifested itself in so many helpful ways, repaid
+her generously in beauty and brightness and cheer by making themselves a
+part of her daily life.
+
+By all means, have a back-yard garden.
+
+
+
+
+THE WILD GARDEN
+
+A PLEA FOR OUR NATIVE PLANTS
+
+
+Many persons, I find, are under the impression that we have few, if any,
+native flowering plants and shrubs that are worthy a place in the
+home-garden. They have been accustomed to consider them as "wild
+things," and "weeds," forgetting or overlooking the fact that all plants
+are wild things and weeds somewhere. So unfamiliar are they with many of
+our commonest plants that they fail to recognize them when they meet
+them outside their native haunts. Some years ago I transplanted a
+Solidago,--better known as a "Golden Rod,"--from a fence-corner of the
+pasture, and gave it a place in the home-garden. There it grew
+luxuriantly, and soon became a great plant that sent up scores of stalks
+each season as high as a man's head, every one of them crowned with a
+plume of brilliant yellow flowers. The effect was simply magnificent.
+
+One day an old neighbor came along, and stopped to chat with me as I
+worked among my plants.
+
+"That's a beauty," he said as he leaned across the fence near the Golden
+Rod. "I don't know's I ever saw anything like it before. I reckon, now,
+you paid a good deal of money for that plant."
+
+"How much do you think it cost me?" I asked.
+
+"Oh, I don't know," he answered, looking at the plant admiringly, and
+then at some of foreign origin, near-by. He knew something about the
+value of these, as he had one of them growing in his garden. He seemed
+to be making a mental calculation, based on the relative beauty of the
+plants, and presently he said:
+
+"I ain't much of a judge of such things, but I wouldn't wonder if you
+paid as much as three--mebby four--an' like's not five dollars for it."
+
+"The plant cost me nothing but the labor of bringing it from the
+pasture," I answered. "Don't you know what it is? There's any quantity
+of it back of your barn, I notice."
+
+"You don't mean to say that's yaller-weed," exclaimed the old gentleman,
+with a disgusted look on his face. "I wouldn't have it in _my_ yard.
+We've got weeds enough 'thout settin' 'em out". He went away with a
+look on his face that made me think he felt as if he had been imposed
+on.
+
+While it is true, in many instances, that "familiarity breeds contempt,"
+it is equally true that familiarity without prejudice would open our
+eyes to the fact that beauty exists all about us--in lane, and field,
+and roadside, and forest. We are not aware of the prevalence of it until
+we go in search of it. When we go out with "the seeing eye," we find it
+everywhere. Nothing is so plentiful or so cheap as beauty to the lover
+of the beautiful. It may be had for the taking. We have fallen into the
+habit of looking to foreign lands for plants with which to beautify our
+gardens, thus neglecting and ignoring the beauty at our own doors. A
+shrub with a long name and a good big price attached will win our
+admiration, while a native plant, vastly more desirable, will be wholly
+overlooked. It ought not to be so. "Home first, the world afterward" is
+the motto of many patriotic men and women, and it ought to be the motto
+of the lover of the beautiful in plant-life when he is seeking for
+something with which to ornament the home-grounds.
+
+Many persons have, however, become greatly interested in our native
+plants, and it is apparent that the interest of the masses in whatever
+is beautiful is steadily increasing. The people are being educated to a
+keener appreciation of beauty than ever before. It is encouraging to
+know that a demand has sprung up for shrubs and plants of American
+origin--a demand so large, already, that many nurserymen advertise
+collections of native plants, some of them quite extensive. Appreciation
+of true beauty is putting a value into things which have heretofore had
+no idea of value connected with them.
+
+The dominant idea I had in mind, when this chapter was planned, was that
+of enlisting the boys and girls in the work of making a collection of
+native plants. I would have them make what might properly be called a
+wild garden. But I would not confine the undertaking to the boys and
+girls. I would interest the man or woman who has a home to make
+beautiful in the material that is to be found on every hand, waiting to
+be utilized. Such a garden can be made of great educational value, and,
+at the same time, quite as ornamental as the garden that contains
+nothing but foreign plants. It can be made to assist in the development
+of patriotic as well as aesthetic ideas. It can be made to stimulate a
+healthy rivalry among the boys and girls, as well as the "children of a
+larger growth," as to whose collection shall be most complete. In the
+care and culture of these plants a skill and knowledge may be attained
+that will be of much benefit to them in the future, and possibly to the
+world. Who knows? We may have among us a young Linnaeus, or a Humboldt,
+and the making of a wild garden may tend to the discovery and
+development of a talent which coming years may make us proud to do honor
+to the possessor of.
+
+I would suggest the formation of a wild-garden society in each country
+village and neighborhood. Organize expeditions into the surrounding
+country in search of shrubs and plants. Such excursions can be made as
+delightful as a picnic. Take with you a good-sized basket, to contain
+the plants you gather, and some kind of a tool to dig the plants
+with--and your dinner. Lift the plants very carefully, with enough earth
+about them to keep their roots moist. On no account should their roots
+be allowed to get dry. If this happens you might as well throw them
+away, at once, as no amount of after-attention will undo the damage that
+is done by neglect to carry out this advice.
+
+[Illustration: PORCH BOX]
+
+The search for plants should begin early in the season if they are to be
+transplanted in spring, for it would not be safe to attempt their
+removal after they have begun to make active growth. April is a good
+time to look up your plants, and May a good time to bring them home.
+Later on, when you come across a plant that seems a desirable addition
+to your collection, mark the place where it grows, and transplant to the
+home grounds in fall, after its leaves have ripened.
+
+In transplanting shrubs and herbaceous plants, study carefully the
+conditions under which they have grown, and aim to make the conditions
+under which they _are to grow_ as similar to the original ones as
+possible. Of course you will be able to do this only approximately, in
+most instances, but come as near it as you can, for much of your success
+depends on this. You can give your plants a soil similar to that in
+which they have been growing, and generally, by a little planning, you
+can arrange for exposure to sunshine, or a shaded location, according to
+the nature of the plants you make use of. Very often it is possible to
+so locate moisture-loving plants that they can have the damp soil so
+many of them need, by planting them in low places or depressions where
+water stands for some time after a rain, while those which prefer a dry
+soil can be given places on knolls and stony places from which water
+runs off readily. In order to do this part of the work well it will be
+necessary to study your plants carefully before removing them from their
+home in the wood or field. Aim to make the change as easy as possible
+for them. This can only be done by imitating natural conditions--in
+other words, the conditions under which they have been growing up to the
+time when you undertake their domestication.
+
+Not knowing, at the start, the kind of plants our collection will
+contain, as it grows, we can have no definite plan to work to.
+Consequently there will be a certain unavoidable lack of system in the
+arrangement of the wild garden. But this may possibly be one of the
+chief charms of it, after a little. A garden formed on this plan--or
+lack of plan--will seem to have evolved itself, and the utter absence of
+all formality will make it a more cunning imitation of Nature's methods
+than it would ever be if we began it with the intention of imitating
+her.
+
+Among our early-flowering native plants worthy a place in any garden
+will be found the Dogwoods, the Plums, the Crab-apple, and the wild
+Rose. Smaller plants, like the Trillium, the Houstonia, the Bloodroot,
+the Claytonia and the Hepatica, will work in charmingly in the
+foreground. Between them can be used many varieties of Fern, if the
+location is shaded somewhat, as it should be to suit the flowering
+plants I have named.
+
+Among the summer-flowering sorts we have Aquilegia, Daisy, Coreopsis,
+Cranesbill, Eupatorium, Meadow Sweet, Lily, Helianthus, Enothera,
+Rudbeckia, Vervain, Veronia, Lobelia and many others that grow here and
+there, but are not found in all parts of the country, as those I have
+named are, for the most part.
+
+Among the shrubs are Elder, Spirea, Clethra, Sumach, Dogwood, and others
+equally as desirable.
+
+Among the late bloomers are the Solidagos (Golden Rod), Asters,
+Helenium, Ironweed, and others which continue to bloom until cold
+weather is at hand.
+
+Among the desirable vines are the Ampelopsis, which vies with the Sumach
+in richness of color in fall, the Bittersweet, with its profusion of
+fruitage as brilliant as flowers, and the Clematis, beautiful in bloom,
+and quite as attractive later, when its seeds take on their peculiar
+feathery appendages that make the plant look as if a gray plume had been
+torn apart and scattered over the plant, portions of it adhering to
+every branch in the most airy, graceful manner imaginable.
+
+Though I have named only our most familiar wild plants, it will be
+observed that the list is quite a long one. No one need be afraid of not
+being able to obtain plants enough to stock a good-sized garden. The
+trouble will be, in most instances, to find room for all the plants you
+would like to have represented in your collection, after you become
+thoroughly interested in the delightful work of making it. The
+attraction of it will increase as the collection increases, and as you
+discover what a wealth of material for garden-making we have at our very
+doors, without ever having dreamed of its existence, you will be tempted
+to exceed the limitations of the place because of the embarrassment of
+riches which makes a decision between desirable plants difficult. You
+can have but few of them, but you would like all.
+
+
+
+
+THE WINTER GARDEN
+
+
+Most persons who are the owners of gardens seem to be under the
+impression that we must close the summer volume of Nature's book at the
+end of the season, and that it must remain closed until the spring of
+another year invites us to a re-perusal of its attractive pages. In
+other words, that we are not expected to derive much pleasure from the
+garden for six months of the year.
+
+There is no good reason why the home-grounds should not be attractive
+the year round if we plant for winter as well as summer effect.
+
+True, we cannot have flowers in winter, but we can secure color-effects
+with but little trouble that will make good, to a considerable extent,
+the lack of floral color. Without these the winter landscape is cold,
+though beautiful, and to most persons it will seem dreary and monotonous
+in its chill whiteness. But to those who have "the seeing eye," there
+are always elements of wonderful beauty in it, and there is ample
+material at hand with which to give it the touches of brightness that
+can make it almost as attractive as it is in June.
+
+If the reader will carefully study the two illustrations accompanying
+this chapter, he will have to admit that the winter garden has many
+attractive features that the summer garden cannot boast of. These
+illustrations are summer and winter views of the same spot, taken from
+one of our public parks. The summer view shows a wealth of foliage and
+bloom, and is one of Nature's beauty-spots that we never tire of. But
+the winter view has in it a suggestion of breadth and distance that adds
+wonderfully to the charm of the scene, brought out as it is by the naked
+branches against the sky, and glimpses of delightful vistas farther on,
+which are entirely hidden by the foliage that interferes with the
+outlook in the summer picture. Note how the evergreens stand out sharply
+against the background, and how clearly every shrub--every branch--is
+outlined by the snow. It is one of Nature's etchings. Whatever color
+there is in the landscape is heightened and emphasized by strong, vivid
+contrast. There are little touches of exquisite beauty in this picture
+that cannot be found in the other.
+
+Most of us plant a few evergreens about our homes. Sometimes we are
+fortunate enough to locate them where they will prove effective. Oftener
+we put them where they have no chance to display their charms to good
+effect. They do not belong near the house--least of all in the "front
+yard." They must be admired at a distance which will soften their
+coarseness of habit. You must be far enough away from them to be able to
+take in their charms of form and color at a glance, to observe the
+graceful sweep of their branches against the snow, and to fully bring
+out the strength and richness of color, none of which things can be done
+at close range. Looked at from a proper and respectful distance, every
+good specimen of evergreen will afford a great deal of pleasure. But it
+might be made to afford a great deal more if we were to set about it in
+the right way. Why not make our evergreens serve as backgrounds against
+which to bring out colors that rival, to some extent, the flowers of
+summer?
+
+Have you never taken a tramp along the edge of the woodland in winter,
+and come suddenly upon a group of Alders? What brightness seemed to
+radiate from their spikes of scarlet berries! The effect is something
+like that of a flame, so intense is it. It seems to radiate through the
+winter air with a thrill of positive warmth. So strong an impression do
+they make upon the eye that you see them long after you have passed
+them. They photograph themselves there. Why should we not transplant
+this bit of woodland glory to the garden, and heighten the effect of it
+by giving it an evergreen as a background? Its scarlet fire, seen
+against the dark greenery of Spruce or Arbor Vitae, would make the winter
+garden fairly glow with color.
+
+I have seen the red-branched Willow planted near an evergreen, and the
+contrast of color brought out every branch so keenly that it seemed
+chiselled from coral. The effect was exquisite.
+
+Train Celastrus _scandens_, better known as Bittersweet, where its
+pendant clusters of red and orange can show against evergreens, and you
+produce an effect that can be equalled by few flowers.
+
+The Berberry is an exceedingly useful shrub with which to work up vivid
+color-effects in winter. It shows attractively among other shrubs, is
+charming when seen against a drift of snow, but is never quite so
+effective as when its richness of coloring is emphasized by contrast by
+the sombre green of a Spruce or Balsam.
+
+Our native Cranberry--Viburnum _opulus_--is one of our best
+berry-bearing shrubs. It holds its crimson fruit well in winter. Planted
+among--not against--evergreens, it is wonderfully effective because of
+its tall and stately habit.
+
+Bayberry (Myrica _cerifera_) is another showy-fruited shrub. Its
+grayish-white berries are thickly studded along its brown branches, and
+are retained through the winter. If this is planted side by side with
+the Alder, the effect will be found very pleasing.
+
+The Snowberry (Symphoricarpus _racemosus_) has been cultivated for
+nearly a hundred years in our gardens, and probably stands at the head
+of the list of white-fruited shrubs. If this is planted in front of
+evergreens the purity of its color is brought out charmingly. Group it
+with the red-barked Willow, the Alder, or the Berberry, and you secure a
+contrast that makes the effect strikingly delightful--a symphony in
+green, scarlet, and white. If to this combination you add the blue of a
+winter sky or the glow of a winter sunset, who can say there is not
+plenty of color in a winter landscape?
+
+The value of the Mountain Ash in winter decoration is just beginning to
+be understood. If it retained its fruit throughout the entire season it
+would be one of our most valuable plants, but the birds claim its
+crimson fruit as their especial property, and it is generally without a
+berry by Christmas in localities where robins and other berry-eating
+birds linger late in the season. Up to that time it is exceedingly
+attractive, especially if it is planted where it can have the benefit of
+strong contrast to bring out the rich color of its great clusters.
+Because of its tall and stately habit it will be found very effective
+when planted between evergreens, with other bright-colored shrubs in the
+foreground.
+
+There are many shrubs whose berries are blue, and purple, and black.
+While these are not as showy as those of scarlet and white, they are
+very attractive, and can be made extremely useful in the winter garden.
+They should not be neglected, because they widen the range of color to
+such an extent that the charge of monotony of tone in the winter
+landscape is ineffective.
+
+The Ramanas Rose (R. _lucida_) has very brilliant clusters of crimson
+fruit which retains its beauty long after the holidays. This shrub is
+really more attractive in winter than in summer.
+
+It will be understood, from what I said at the beginning of this
+chapter, that I put high value on the decorative effect of leafless
+shrubs. Their branches, whether traced against a background of sky or
+snow, make an embroidery that has about it a charm that summer cannot
+equal in delicacy. A Bittersweet, clambering over bush or tree, and
+displaying its many clusters of red and orange against a background of
+leafless branches, with the intense blue of winter sky showing through
+them, makes a picture that is brilliant in the extreme, when you
+consider the relative values of the colors composing it. Then you will
+discover that the charm is not confined to the color of the fruit, but
+to the delicate tracery of branch and twig, as well.
+
+
+
+
+WINDOW AND VERANDA BOXES
+
+
+Somebody had a bright thought when the window-box came into existence.
+The only wonder is that persons who were obliged to forego the pleasure
+of a garden did not think it out long ago. It is one of the
+"institutions" that have come to stay. We see more of them every year.
+Those who have gardens--or could have them, if they wanted them--seem to
+have a decided preference for the window-box substitute.
+
+There is a good reason for this: The window-box brings the garden to
+one's room, while the garden obliges one to make it a visit in order to
+enjoy the beauty in it. With the window-box the upstair room can be made
+as pleasant as those below, and the woman in the kitchen can enjoy the
+companionship of flowers while she busies herself with her housewifely
+duties, if she does not care to make herself a back-yard garden such as
+I have spoken of in a preceding chapter. And the humble home that has
+no room for flowers outside its walls, the homes in the congested city,
+away up, up, up above the soil in which a few flowers might possibly be
+coaxed to grow, if man thought less of gain and more of beauty, can be
+made more like what home ought to be, with but little trouble and
+expense, by giving these boxes a chance to do their good work at their
+windows. Blessed be the window-box!
+
+Many persons, however, fail to attain success in the cultivation of
+plants in boxes at the window-sill, and their failures have given rise
+to the impression in the minds of those who have watched their
+undertaking, that success with them is very problematical. "It _looks_
+easy," said a woman to me last season, "when you see somebody else's box
+just running over with vines, but when you come to make the attempt for
+yourself you wake up to the fact that there's a knack to it that most of
+us fail to discover. I've tried my best, for the last three years, to
+have such boxes as my neighbor has, and I haven't found out what's wrong
+yet. I invest in the plants that are told me to be best adapted to
+window-box culture. I plant them, and then I coax them and coddle them.
+I fertilize them and I shower them, but they stubbornly refuse to do
+well. They _start off_ all right, but by the time they ought to be doing
+great things they begin to look rusty, and it isn't long before they
+look so sickly and forlorn that I feel like putting them out of their
+misery by dumping them in the ash-heap."
+
+Now this woman's experience is the experience of many other women. She
+thinks,--and they think,--that they lack the "gift" that enables some
+persons to grow flowers successfully while others fail utterly with
+them. They haven't "the knack." Now, as I have said elsewhere in this
+book, there's no such thing as "a knack" in flower-growing. Instead of
+"a knack" it's a "know-how." Ninety-nine times out of a hundred failure
+with window-boxes is due to just one thing: They let their plants die
+simply because they do not give them water enough.
+
+Liberal watering is the "know-how" that a person must have to make a
+success of growing; good plants in window and veranda boxes. Simply
+that, and nothing more.
+
+The average woman isn't given to "studying into things" as much as the
+average man is, so she often fails to get at the whys and wherefores of
+many happenings. She sees the plants in her boxes dying slowly, but she
+fails to take note of the fact that evaporation from these boxes is
+very rapid. It could not be otherwise because of their exposure to wind
+and air on all sides. She applies water in quantities only sufficient to
+wet the surface of the soil, and because that looks moist she concludes
+there must be sufficient moisture below and lets it go at that.
+Examination would show her that an inch below the surface the soil in
+the box is very, very dry,--so dry, in fact, that no roots could find
+sustenance in it. This explains why plants "start off" well. While young
+and small their roots are close to the surface, and as long as they
+remain in that condition they grow well enough, but as soon as they
+attempt to send their roots down--as all plants do, after the earlier
+stages of growth--they find no moisture, and in a short time they die.
+
+If, instead of applying a basinful of water, a pailful were used, daily,
+all the soil in a box of ordinary size would be made moist all through,
+and so long as a supply of water is kept up there is no reason why just
+as fine plants cannot be grown in boxes as in pots, or the garden beds.
+There is no danger of overwatering, for all surplus water will run off
+through the holes in the box, provided for drainage. Therefore make it a
+rule to apply to your window-box, every day, throughout the season,
+enough water to thoroughly saturate all the soil in it. If this is done,
+you will come to the conclusion that at last you have discovered the
+"knack" upon which success depends.
+
+I am often asked what kind of boxes I consider best. To which I reply:
+"The kind that comes handiest." It isn't the box that your plants grow
+in that counts for much. It's the care you give. Of course the soil
+ought to be fairly rich, though a soil of ordinary fertility can be made
+to answer all purposes if a good dose of plant food is given
+occasionally. Care should be taken, however, not to make too frequent
+use of it, as it is an easy matter to force a growth that will be weak
+because of its rapidity, and from which there may be a disastrous
+reaction after a little. The result to aim at is a healthy growth, and
+when you secure that, be satisfied with it.
+
+The idea prevails to a considerable extent that one must make use of
+plants specially adapted to window-box culture. Now the fact is--almost
+any kind of plant can be grown in these boxes, there being no "special
+adaption" to this purpose, except as to profusion of bloom and habit of
+growth. Drooping plants are desirable to trail over the sides of the
+box, and add that touch of grace which is characteristic of all
+vines. Plants that bloom freely throughout the season should be
+chosen in preference to shy and short-season bloomers. Geraniums,
+Petunias, Verbenas, Fuchsias, Salvias, Heliotropes, Paris Daisies--all
+these are excellent.
+
+[Illustration: PORCH BOX]
+
+If one cares to depend on foliage for color, most pleasing results can
+be secured by making use of the plants of which mention has been made in
+the chapter on Carpet-Bedding.
+
+Vines that will give satisfaction are Glechoma, green, with yellow
+variegation--Vinca _Harrisonii_, also green and yellow, Moneywort,
+German Ivy, Tradescantia, Thunbergia, and Othonna. A combination of
+plants with richly-colored foliage is especially desirable for boxes on
+the porch or veranda, where showiness seems to be considered as more
+important than delicacy of tint or refinement of quality. In these boxes
+larger plants can be used than one would care to give place to at the
+window. Here is where Cannas and Caladiums will be found very effective.
+
+Ferns, like the Boston and Pierson varieties, are excellent for not too
+sunny window-boxes because of their graceful drooping and spreading
+habit. They combine well with pink-and-white Fuchsias, rose-colored Ivy
+Geraniums, and the white Paris Daisy. Petunias--the single sorts
+only--are very satisfactory, because they bloom so freely and
+constantly, and have enough of the droop in them to make them as useful
+in covering the sides of the box as they are in spreading over its
+surface. If pink and white varieties are used to the exclusion of the
+mottled and variegated kinds the effect will be found vastly more
+pleasing than where there is an indiscriminate jumbling of colors.
+
+A foot in width, a foot in depth, and the length of the window frame to
+which it is to be attached is a good size for the average window-box.
+Great care must be taken to see that it is securely fastened to the
+frame, and that it is given a strong support, for the amount of earth it
+will contain will be of considerable weight when well saturated with
+water.
+
+Veranda boxes, in which larger plants are to be used, should be
+considerably deeper and wider than the ordinary window-box. Any box of
+the size desired that is substantial enough to hold a sufficient amount
+of soil will answer all purposes, therefore it is not necessary to
+invest in expensive goods unless you have so much money that economy is
+no object to you. If your plants grow as they ought to no one can tell,
+by midsummer, whether your box cost ten dollars or ten cents. If it is
+of wood, give it a coat of some neutral-colored paint before you fill
+it.
+
+
+
+
+SPRING WORK IN THE GARDEN
+
+
+Not much actual work can be done in the garden, at the north, before the
+middle of April. But a good deal can be done toward getting ready for
+active work as soon as conditions become favorable.
+
+Right here let me say that it is a most excellent plan to do all that
+can be done to advantage as early in the season as possible, for the
+reason that when the weather becomes warm, work will come with a rush,
+and in the hurry of it quite likely some of it will be slighted. Always
+aim to keep ahead of your work.
+
+I believe, as I have several times said, in planning things. Your garden
+may be small--so small that you do not think it worth while to give much
+consideration to it in the way of making plans for it--but it will pay
+you to think over the arrangement of it in advance. "Making garden"
+doesn't consist simply in spading up a bed, and putting seed into the
+ground. Thought should be given to the location and arrangement of each
+kind of flower you make use of. The haphazard location of any plant is
+likely to do it injustice, and the whole garden suffers in consequence.
+
+Make a mental picture of your garden as you would like to have it, and
+then take an inventory of the material you have to work with, and see
+how near you can come to the garden you have in mind. Try to find the
+proper place for every flower. Study up on habit, and color, and season
+of bloom, and you will not be likely to get things into the wrong place
+as you will be almost sure to do if you do not give considerable thought
+to this matter. There should be orderliness and system in the garden as
+well as in the house, and this can only come by knowing your plants, and
+so locating them that each one of them will have the opportunity of
+making the most of itself.
+
+Beds can be spaded as soon as the frost is out of the ground, as advised
+in the chapter on The Garden of Annuals, but, as was said in that
+chapter, it is not advisable to do more with them at that time. If the
+ground is worked over when wet, the only result is that you get a good
+many small clods to take the place of large ones. Nothing is gained by
+being in a hurry with this part of the work. Pulverization of the soil
+can only be accomplished successfully after it has parted with the
+excessive moisture consequent on melting snows and spring rains.
+Therefore let it lie as thrown up by the spade until it is in a
+condition to crumble readily under the application of hoe or rake.
+
+Shrubs can be reset as soon as frost is out of the ground. Remove all
+defective roots when this is done. Make the soil in which you plant them
+quite rich, and follow the instruction given in the chapter on Shrubs as
+carefully as possible, in the work of resetting.
+
+If any changes are to be made in the border, plan for them now. Decide
+just what you want to do. Don't allow any guesswork about it. If you
+"think out" these things the home grounds will improve year by year, and
+you will have a place to be proud of. But the planless system which so
+many follow never gives satisfactory results. It gives one the
+impression of something that started for somewhere but never arrived at
+its destination.
+
+Old border plants which have received little or no attention for years
+will be greatly benefited by transplanting at this season. Cut away all
+the older roots, and make use of none that are not strong and healthy.
+Give them a rich soil. Most of them will have renewed themselves by
+midsummer.
+
+If you do not care to take up the old plants, cut about them with a
+sharp knife, and remove as many of the old roots as possible. This is
+often almost as effective as transplanting, and it does not involve as
+much labor.
+
+The lawn should be given attention at this season. Rake off all
+unsightly refuse that may have collected on it during winter. Give it an
+application of some good fertilizer. It is quite important that this
+should be done early in the season, as grass begins to grow almost as
+soon as frost is out of the ground, and the sward should have something
+to feed on as soon as it is ready for work.
+
+Go over all the shrubs and see if any need attention in the way of
+pruning. But don't touch them with the pruning knife unless they really
+need it. Cut out old wood and weak branches, if there are any, and thin,
+if too thick, but leave the bush to train itself. It knows more about
+this than you do!
+
+Get racks and trellises ready for summer use. These are generally made
+on the spur of the moment, out of whatever material comes handiest at
+the time they are needed. Such hurriedly constructed things are pretty
+sure to prove eyesores. The gardener who takes pride in his work and his
+garden will not be satisfied with makeshifts, but will see that
+whatever is needed, along this line, is well made, and looks so well
+that he has no reason to be ashamed of it. It should be painted a dark
+green or some other neutral color.
+
+Rake the mulch away from the plants that were given protection in fall
+as soon as the weather gets warm enough to start them to growing. Or it
+can be dug into the soil about them to act as a fertilizer. Get it out
+of sight, for it always gives the garden an untidy effect if left about
+the plants.
+
+Go over the border plants and uproot all grass that has secured a
+foothold there. A space of a foot should be left about all shrubs and
+perennials in which nothing should be allowed to grow.
+
+If any plants seem out of place, take them up and put them where they
+belong. If you cannot find a place where they seem to fit in, discard
+them. The garden will be better off without them, no matter how
+desirable they are, than with them if their presence creates
+color-discord.
+
+Peonies can be moved to advantage now. If you cut about the old clump
+and lift a good deal of earth with it, and do not interfere with its
+roots, no harm will be done. But if you mutilate its roots, or expose
+them, you need not expect any flowers from the plant for a season or
+two.
+
+Get stakes ready for the Dahlias. These should be painted some
+unobtrusive color. If this is done, and they are taken proper care of in
+fall, they will last for years. This is true of racks and trellises.
+
+Provide yourself with a hoe, an iron-toothed rake, a weeding-hook, a
+trowel for transplanting, a wheel-barrow, a spade, and a watering-pot.
+See that the latter is made from galvanized iron if you want it to last.
+Tin pots will rust out in a short time.
+
+Take your watering-pot to the tinsmith and have him fit it out with an
+extension spout--one that can be slipped on to the end of the spout that
+comes with the pot. Let this be at least two feet in length. This will
+enable you to apply water to the roots of plants standing well back in
+the border, or across beds, and get it just where it will do the most
+good, but a short-spouted plant will not do this unless you take a good
+many unnecessary steps in making the application.
+
+Be sure to send in your orders for seed and plants early in the season.
+Have everything on hand, ready for putting into the ground when the
+proper time comes to do this.
+
+
+
+
+SUMMER WORK IN THE GARDEN
+
+
+If weeds are kept down through the early part of the season, there will
+not be a great deal of weeding to do in midsummer. Still, we cannot
+afford to take it for granted that they require no attention, for they
+are most aggressive things, and so persistent are they that they will
+take advantage of every opportunity for perpetuating themselves.
+Therefore be on the lookout for them, and as soon as you discover one
+that has thought to escape your notice by hiding behind some flowering
+plant, uproot it. One weed will furnish seed enough to fill the entire
+garden with plants next year if let alone.
+
+If the season happens to be very dry, some of your plants--Dahlias, for
+instance,--will have to be watered if you want them to amount to
+anything. These must have moisture at their roots in order to flower
+well.
+
+Other plants may be able to get along with a mulch of grass-clippings
+from the lawn. Most of our annuals will stand quite a drouth.
+
+If one is connected with a system of waterworks it is an easy matter
+to tide a garden over a drouth. But where there is nothing but the pump
+to depend on for a supply of water, I would not advise beginning
+artificial watering except in rare cases, like that of the Dahlia. We
+always find that so much work is required in supplying our plants from
+the pump that after a little we abandon the undertaking, and the result
+is that the plants we set out to be kind to are left in a worse
+condition, when we give up our spasmodic attention, than they would have
+been in if we had not begun it.
+
+It is well to use the hoe constantly if the season is a dry one. Keep
+the surface of the soil open that it may take in all the moisture
+possible. On no account allow it to become crusted over.
+
+Seed of perennials can be sown now to furnish plants for flowering next
+season.
+
+Look to the Dahlias, and make sure they are properly staked.
+
+Be on the lookout for black beetle on Aster and Chrysanthemum. As soon
+as one is discovered apply Nicoticide, and apply it thoroughly, all over
+the plant. Promptness is demanded in fighting this voracious pest.
+
+During the latter part of summer, when the extreme hot weather that we
+have at the north sets in, cut away nearly all the top of the
+Pansy-plants. This will give the plants a chance to rest during the
+season when they are not equal to the task of flowering, because of the
+hot, dry weather which is so trying to them. Along in September, when
+the weather becomes cooler, they will take a fresh start and give us
+fine flowers all through the fall.
+
+Look over the perennials and satisfy yourself that there is
+color-harmony everywhere. If you find a discord anywhere, mark the plant
+that makes it for removal later on.
+
+Be sure to keep all seed from developing on the Sweet Peas. This you
+_must_ do if you would have a good crop of flowers during the fall
+months.
+
+If any plants seem too thick, sacrifice some of them promptly. No plant
+can develop itself satisfactorily if it is crowded.
+
+Poor plants will find their way into all collections. If you find one in
+yours, remove it at once. There are so many good ones at our disposal
+that we cannot afford to give place, even for a season, to an inferior
+kind.
+
+Let neatness prevail everywhere. Gather up dead leaves and fallen
+flowers, cut away the stalks of plants upon which no more flowers can be
+expected, and keep the walks looking as if you expected visitors at any
+time, and were determined not to be caught in untidy garments.
+
+While the good gardener can always find something to do in the garden,
+he will not have as much work on his hands at this season as at any
+other, therefore it is the time in which he can get the greatest amount
+of pleasure from his flowers, and in proportion to his care of them
+earlier in the season will be the pleasure they afford now.
+
+
+
+
+FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN
+
+
+Because the growth of grass on the lawn is not as luxuriant and rapid in
+fall as it is in midsummer, is no reason why the lawn should be
+neglected after summer is over. It should be mowed whenever the grass
+gets too tall to look well, clear up to the end of the season. The neat
+and attractive appearance of the home-grounds depends more upon the lawn
+than anything else about them. It is a good plan to fertilize it well in
+fall, thus enabling the roots of the sward to store up nutriment for the
+coming season. Fine bonemeal is as good for this purpose as anything I
+know of except barnyard manure, and it is superior to that in one
+respect--it does not contain the seeds of weeds.
+
+Go over the garden before the end of the season and gather up all plants
+that have completed their work. If we neglect to give attention to the
+beds now that the flowering-period is over, a general appearance of
+untidiness will soon dominate everything. Much of the depressing effect
+of late fall is due to this lack of attention. The prompt removal of all
+unsightly objects will keep the grounds looking _clean_ after the season
+has passed its prime, and we all know what the Good Book's estimate of
+cleanliness is.
+
+Seedlings of such perennials as Hollyhock, Delphinium, and other plants
+of similar character, ought to be transplanted to the places they are to
+occupy next season by the last of September. If care is taken not to
+disturb their roots when you lift them they will receive no check.
+
+If you give your Hybrid Perpetual Roses a good, sharp cutting-back early
+in September, and manure the soil about them well, you may reasonably
+expect a few fine flowers from them later on. And what is more
+delightful than a perfect Rose gathered from your own garden just at the
+edge of winter?
+
+Perennials can be divided and reset, if necessary, immediately after
+they have ripened off the growth of the present year. If this work is
+done now, there will be just so much less to do in spring.
+
+Before the coming of cold weather all tools used in gardening operations
+should be gathered up and stored under cover. If any repairs are
+needed, make note of them, and see that the work is done in winter, so
+that everything needed in spring may be in readiness for use. It is a
+good plan to give all wood-work a coat of paint at the time it is stored
+away, and to go over the metal part of every tool with a wash of
+vaseline to prevent rust.
+
+Have a general house-cleaning before winter sets in. Cut away the stalks
+of the perennials. Pull up all annuals. Rake up the leaves, and add
+everything of this kind to the compost heap. All garden refuse should
+find its way there, to be transmuted by the alchemy of sun and rain, and
+the disintegrating forces of nature into that most valuable of soil
+constituents--humus. Let nothing that has any value in it be wasted.
+
+After hard frosts have killed the tops of Dahlias, Cannas, Caladiums and
+Gladioluses, their roots should be dug, on some warm and sunny day, and
+prepared for storage in the cellar or closet. Spread them out in the
+sunshine, and leave them there until the soil that was dug with them is
+dry enough to crumble away from them. At night cover with something to
+keep out the cold, and expose them to the curative effects of the sun
+next day. It may be necessary to do this several days in succession. The
+great amount of moisture which they contain when first dug should be
+given a chance to evaporate to a considerable extent before it will be
+safe to put them away for the winter. Cut off the old stalks close to
+the root before storing.
+
+While clearing the beds of dead plants and leaves be on the lookout for
+insects of various kinds. The cut-worm may still be in evidence, and may
+be found among the rubbish which you gather up. And if found, destroy it
+on the spot. This precaution will go far toward safeguarding plants in
+spring, many of which are annually injured by the depredations of this
+pest.
+
+When you are sure that cold weather is at hand, cover the bulb-bed with
+coarse manure or litter, hay, or straw, as advised in the chapter on The
+Bulb Garden. And give your Roses the protection advised in the chapter
+on The Rose.
+
+Cover Pansies lightly with leaves or evergreen branches. If you have
+mulch enough, apply some to your hardy plants, and next spring note the
+difference between them and the plants which were not given any
+protection.
+
+
+
+
+BY WAY OF POSTSCRIPT
+
+A CHAPTER OF AFTERTHOUGHTS WHICH THE READER CANNOT AFFORD TO MISS
+
+
+[Illustration: PLANTING TO HIDE FOUNDATION WALLS]
+
+Think things out for yourself. Do not try to copy anybody else's garden,
+as so many attempt to do. Be original. What you see on your neighbor's
+home grounds may suggest something similar for your own grounds, but be
+content with the idea suggested. He may not have a patent on his own
+working-out of the idea--indeed, the idea may not have been one of his
+originating--but the manner in which he has expressed it is his own and
+you should respect his right to it. Imitation of what others have done,
+or are doing, is likely to spoil everything. If the best you can do is
+to copy your neighbor's work servilely in all its details, turn your
+attention to something else. If all the flower-gardens in the
+neighborhood were simply duplicates of each other in material and
+arrangement, the uniformity of them would be so monotonous in effect
+that it would be a relief to find a place that was without a garden.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Never imitate anything that you see on the grounds of wealthy people
+with cheap and inferior material. The result will be a sham that will
+deceive no one, and you will soon tire of it, and the sooner the better.
+Be honest. If you have only cheap material to work with, be satisfied
+with unambitious undertakings. Let them be in keeping with what you have
+to work with--simple, unpretentious, and without any attempt in the way
+of deception. The humblest home can be made attractive by holding fast
+to the principle of honesty in everything that is done about it. It is
+not necessary to imitate in order to make it attractive. Think out
+things for yourself, and endeavor to do the best you can with the
+material at hand, and under the conditions that prevail, and be content
+with that. The result will afford you vastly more satisfaction, even if
+it does not measure up to what you would like, than you can possibly
+realize by imitating another's work. There is a deal of pleasure in
+being able to say about one's home or garden, "It may not be as fine as
+my neighbor's, but, such as it is, it is all mine. I have put myself
+into it. It may be plain and humble, but--there's honesty in it." And
+that is a feature you have a right to be proud of.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Never make the mistake of neglecting good old plants for the sake of
+something new, simply because it is new. Old plants--plants that have
+held their own against all newcomers--are the ones to depend on. The
+fact that they _have_ held their own is sufficient proof of their
+merits. Had they been inferior in any respect they would have dropped
+from notice long ago, like the "novelties" that aspired to take their
+places. Old plants are like old friends, old wine--all the better
+because of their age. There's something substantial about them. We do
+not tire of them. We know what to expect of them, and they never
+disappoint us.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Never make the mistake of thinking the shape of a bed deserves more
+consideration than what you put into the bed. It's the flower that
+deserves attention,--not the bed it grows in. It isn't treating a flower
+with proper respect to give it secondary place.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Many an amateur gardener tries to have a little of everything, and the
+result is that he has nothing worth speaking of, because quality has
+been sacrificed to quantity. Grow only as many flowers as you can grow
+well, and be wise in selecting only such kinds as do best under the
+conditions in which they must be grown. Depend upon kinds that have been
+tried and not found wanting unless you have a fondness for
+experimenting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No really artistic results can be secured by the use of seeds in which
+all colors are mixed. If you desire harmonious effects, you will have to
+purchase seed in which each color is by itself. A few varieties in which
+there is perfect color-harmony will please you far more than a
+collection in which all the colors of the rainbow are represented. Take
+the Sweet Pea as an illustration of this idea: From a package of mixed
+seed you will get a score of different colors or shades, and many of
+these, though beautiful in themselves, will produce positive discord
+when grown side by side. The eye of the person who has fine color-sense
+will be pained by the lack of harmony. But confine your selection to the
+soft pinks, the delicate lavenders, and the pure whites, and the result
+will be something to delight the artistic eye--restful, harmonious, and
+as pleasing as a strain of exquisite poetry--in fact, a poem in color.
+What is true of the Sweet Pea, in this respect, is equally true of all
+plants which range through a great variety of colors. Bear this in mind
+when you select seeds for your garden of annuals.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Don't throw away any plants that are worth growing. If you have no use
+for them some of your neighbors will doubtless be glad to get them. Give
+them to the poor children of your neighborhood, and tell them how to
+care for them, and you will not only be doing a kind deed but you will
+be putting into the life that needs uplifting and refining influences a
+means of help and education that you little guess the power of for good.
+For every plant is a teacher, and a preacher of the gospel of beauty,
+and its mission is to brighten and broaden every life that comes under
+its influence. All that it asks is an opportunity to fulfill that
+mission.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+If no one cares for the plants you have no use for, give them a place in
+out-of-the-way nooks and corners--in the roadside, even, if there is no
+other place for them. A stock of this kind, to draw upon in case any of
+your old plants fail in winter, will save expense and trouble, and
+prevent bare spots from detracting from the appearance of the home
+grounds. It is always well to have a few plants in reserve for just such
+emergencies as this. Very frequently the odds-and-ends corner of the
+garden is the most attractive feature in it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Many a place is all but spoiled because its owner finds it difficult to
+confine his selection of plants for it to the number it will
+conveniently accommodate. There are so many desirable ones to choose
+from that it is no easy matter to determine which you will have,
+because--you want them all! But one must be governed by the conditions
+that cannot be changed. Unfortunately the home-lot is not elastic. Small
+grounds necessitate small collections if we would avoid cluttering up
+the place in a manner that makes it impossible to grow anything well.
+Shrubs must have elbow-room in order to display their attractions to the
+best advantage. Keep this in mind, and set out only as many as there
+will be room for when they have fully developed. It may cost you a pang
+to discard an old favorite, but often it has to be done out of regard
+for the future welfare of the kinds you feel you _must have_. If you
+overstock your garden, it will give you many pangs to see how the plants
+in it suffer from the effect of crowding. If you cannot have _all_ the
+good things, have the very best of the list, and try to grow them so
+well that they will make up in quality for the lack in quantity. I know
+of a little garden in which but three plants grow, but the owner of them
+gives them such care that these three plants attract more attention from
+passers-by than any other garden on that street.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Be methodical in your garden-work. Keep watch of everything, and when
+you see something that needs doing, do it. And do it well. One secret of
+success in gardening is in doing everything as if it was _the_ one thing
+to be done. Slight nothing.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+For vines that do not grow thick enough to hide everything with their
+foliage, a lattice framework of lath, painted white, is the most
+satisfactory support, because of the pleasing color-contrast between it
+and the plants trained over it. Both support and plant will be
+ornamental, and one will admirably supplement the other. The lattice
+will be an attractive feature of the garden when the vine that grew over
+it is dead, if it is kept neatly painted.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+But for the rampant grower a coarse-meshed wire netting is just as good,
+and considerably less expensive, in the long run, as it will do duty for
+many years, if taken care of at the end of the season. Roll it up and
+put it under cover before the fall rains set in.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The simple fact of newness is nothing in any plant's favor. Unless it
+has real merit, it will not find purchasers after the first season.
+Better wait until you know what a plant is before investing in it. We
+have so many excellent plants with whose good qualities we are familiar
+that it is not necessary to run any risks of this kind.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Many home-owners make the mistake of putting down boardwalks about the
+dwelling and yard. Such a walk is never attractive, and it has not the
+merit of durability, for after a year or two it will need repairs, and
+from that time on it will be a constant source of expense. The
+variegated appearance of a patched-up boardwalk will seriously detract
+from the attractiveness of any garden. It may cost more, at first, to
+put down cement walks,--though I am inclined to doubt this, at the
+present price of lumber--but such walks are good for a lifetime, if
+properly constructed, therefore much cheaper in the end. There can be no
+two opinions as to their superior appearance. Their cool gray color
+brings them into harmony with their surroundings. They are never
+obtrusive. They are easily cleaned, both summer and winter. And the
+home-maker can put them in quite as well as the professional worker in
+cement if he sets out to do so, though he may be longer at the work.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+But _make sure_ about the location of your paths before putting in
+cement walks. That is--be quite sure that you know where you want them
+to be. A boardwalk can be changed at any time with but little trouble
+if you get it in the wrong place, but a cement walk, once down, is down
+for all time, unless you are willing to spend a good deal of hard labor
+in its removal.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Never do spasmodic work in the garden. The unwise gardener neglects what
+needs doing until so much has accumulated that he is forced to give it
+attention, and then he hurries in his efforts to dispose of it, and the
+consequence is that much of it is likely to be so poorly done that
+plants suffer nearly as much from his hasty operations as they did from
+neglect. Do whatever needs doing in a systematic way, and keep ahead of
+your work. Never be driven by it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It is one of the most satisfactory laws of Nature that we can have only
+what we work for. Too many seem to forget this, and think that because a
+flower hasn't a market value, like corn or wheat, it ought to grow
+without any attention on their part. Such persons do not understand the
+real value of a flower, which is none the less because it cannot be
+computed on the basis of a dollars-and-cents calculation.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Man, wife, and all the children ought to work together for whatever adds
+beauty to the home, and nothing is more effective in this line than a
+good flower-garden. I can remember when it was considered an indication
+of weakness for a man to admit that he was fond of flowers. I look back
+with amusement to my own experience in this respect. Because I loved
+flowers so well, when I was a wee bit of a lad, that I attempted to grow
+them, I was often laughed at for being a "girl-boy." "He ought to have
+been a girl," one of my uncles used to say. "You'll have to learn him to
+do sewing and housework." It often stung me to anger to listen to these
+sarcastic remarks, but I am glad that my love for flowers was strong
+enough to keep me at work among them, for I know that I am a better man
+to-day than I would have been had I allowed myself to be ridiculed out
+of my love for them. If the children manifest a desire to have little
+gardens of their own encourage them to do so, and feel sure that the
+cultivation of them will prove to be a strong factor in the development
+of the child mind.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Seedling Hollyhocks almost always look well when winter comes, but in
+spring we find their leaves decaying from the effect of too much
+moisture, and this decay is likely to be communicated to the crown of
+the plant, and that means failure. Of late years I protect my plants by
+inverting small boxes over them. The sides of these boxes are bored full
+of holes to admit air, which must be allowed to circulate freely about
+the plant, or it will smother. I invert a box over the plant after
+filling it with leaves, and draw more leaves about the outside of it.
+This prevents water from coming in contact with the soft, sponge-like
+foliage, and the plant comes out in spring almost as green as it was in
+fall.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Plants can be moved with comparative safety any time during the summer
+if one is careful to disturb their roots as little as possible. Take
+them up with a large amount of soil adhering, and handle so carefully
+that it will not break apart. It is a good plan to apply enough water
+before attempting to lift them to thoroughly saturate all the soil
+containing the roots. This will hold the earth together, and prevent
+exposure of the roots, which is the main thing to guard against.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+After putting the plant in place, apply water liberally, and then mulch
+the soil about it with grass-clippings or manure. Of course removal at
+that season will check the growth of the plant to a considerable extent,
+and probably end its usefulness for the remainder of the season. Unless
+absolutely necessary, I would not attempt the work at this time, for
+spring and fall are the proper seasons for doing it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In a letter recently received a lady asks this question: "Do you believe
+in flower-shows? If you think they help the cause of flower-growing,
+will you kindly tell me how to go to work to organize such a society?"
+
+To the first question I reply: I _do_ believe in flower-shows and
+horticultural societies when they are calculated to increase the love
+and appreciation of flowers _as_ flowers, rather than to call attention
+to the skill of the florist in producing freaks which are only
+attractive as curiosities. I sincerely hope that the day of
+Chrysanthemums a foot across and Roses as large as small Cabbages is on
+the wane.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The thing to do in organizing a floral association is--to paraphrase
+Horace Greeley's famous advice as to the resumption of specie
+payment--to organize! In other words, to get right down to business and
+give the proposed society a start by bringing flower-loving people
+together, and beginning to work without wasting time on unnecessary
+details. If you make use of much "red tape" you will kill the
+undertaking at the outset. Simply form your society and appoint your
+committees, and you will find that the various matters which perplex you
+when looked at in the whole will readily adjust themselves to the
+conditions that arise as the society goes on with its work. Put theories
+aside, and _do something_, and you will find very little difficulty in
+making your society successful if you can secure a dozen really
+interested persons as members. I would be glad to know that such a
+society existed in every community.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I would advise my readers never to have anything to do with
+plant-peddlers. Of course it is _possible_ for the man who goes about
+the country with plants for sale to be as honest as any other man, but
+we see so few indications of the possession of honest principles by the
+majority of these men that we have come to consider them all
+unreliable, and, as a matter of protection, we have to refuse to
+patronize any of them at the risk of doing injustice to those who may be
+strictly reliable. They will sell you Roses that have a different
+colored flower each month throughout the season, blue Roses,
+Resurrection Plants that come to life at a snap of the finger, and are
+equally valuable for decorative purposes and for keeping moths out of
+clothing, and numerous other things rare, wonderful, and all high
+priced, every one of which can be classed among the humbugs. Patronize
+dealers in whom you are justified in having confidence because of a
+well-established reputation for fair dealing.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The Hollyhock is often attacked by what is called "rust." The leaves
+become brown, and dry at the edges, and the entire plant has a look much
+like that of a nail which has been for some time in water, hence the
+popular name of the disease. This "rust" is really a fungoid trouble,
+and unless it is promptly checked it will soon spread to other plants.
+If it appears on several plants at the same time, I would advise cutting
+them, and burning every branch and stalk. If but one plant is attacked,
+I would spray it with Bordeaux Mixture, which can now be obtained in
+paste form from most florists. This is the only dependable remedy I know
+of for the fungus ills that plants are heir to. Asparagus is often so
+badly affected with it, of late years, that many growers have been
+obliged to mow down their plants and burn their tops in midsummer, in
+their efforts to save their stock. Never leave any of the cut-off
+portions of a plant on the ground, thinking that cutting down is all
+that is necessary. The fungus spores will survive the winter, and be
+ready for work in spring. Burn everything.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A house whose foundation walls are left fully exposed always has an
+unfinished look. But if we hide them by shrubs and flowering plants the
+place takes on a look of completion, and the effect is so pleasing that
+we wonder why any house should be left with bare walls. The plants about
+it seem to unite it with the grounds in such a manner that it becomes a
+part of them. But the house whose walls are without the grace of "green
+things growing," always suggest that verse in the Good Book which tells
+of "being _in_ the world, but not _of_ it."
+
+I would always surround the dwelling with shrubs and perennials, and use
+annuals and bulbs between them and the paths that run around the house.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On the north side of a dwelling large-growing Ferns can be planted with
+fine effect. These should be gathered in spring, and a good deal of
+native soil should be brought with them from the woods. They will not
+amount to much the first year, but they will afford you a great deal of
+pleasure thereafter. Use in front of them such shade-loving plants as
+Lily of the Valley and Myosotis.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Nowadays "tropical effects" are greatly admired. We have but few plants
+that adapt themselves to this phase of gardening. Canna, Caladium,
+Ricinus, Coleus, "Golden Feather" Pyrethrum and the gray Centaurea cover
+pretty nearly the entire list. But by varying the combinations that can
+be made with them the amateur can produce many new and pleasing effects,
+thus avoiding the monotony which results from simply copying the beds
+that we see year after year in the public parks, from whose likeness to
+each other we get the impression that no other combination can be made.
+Study out new arrangements for yourself. Plant them, group them, use
+them as backgrounds for flowering plants, mass them in open spaces in
+the border. Do not get the idea that they must always be used by
+themselves. Cannas, because of the great variety of color in their
+foliage, can be made attractive when used alone, but the others depend
+upon combination with other plants for the contrast which brings out and
+emphasizes their attractive features.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Speaking of new arrangements reminds me to say that the amateur gardener
+ought always to plan for original effects if he or she would get out of
+gardening all the pleasure there is in it. It may seem almost necessary
+for the _beginner_ to copy the ideas of others in the arrangement of the
+garden, to a considerable extent, but he should not get into the slavish
+habit of doing so. Hazlitt says: "Originality implies independence of
+opinion. It consists in seeing for one's self." That's it, exactly.
+Study your plants. Find out their possibilities. And then plan
+arrangements of your own for next season. Have an opinion of your own,
+and be independent enough to attempt its carrying out. Don't be afraid
+of yourself. Originate! Originate! Originate!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+When you invest your money in a fine plant you do it for the pleasure of
+yourself and family. When a neighbor comes along and admires it, and
+asks you to divide it with her, don't let yourself be frightened into
+doing so from regard of what she may say or think if you refuse. Tell
+her where she can get a plant like it, but don't spoil your own plant
+for anybody.
+
+I am well aware that advice of this kind may seem selfish, but it is
+not. There's no good reason why my neighbor should not get his plants in
+the same way I got mine. I buy with the idea of beautifying my home with
+them, and this I cannot do so long as I yield to everybody's request for
+a slip or a root.
+
+I have in mind a woman who, some years ago, invested in a rare variety
+of Peony. When her plant came into bloom her friends admired it so much
+that they all declared they must have a "toe" of it. The poor woman
+hated terribly to disturb her plant, for she was quite sure what the
+result would be, having had considerable experience with Peonies, but
+she lacked the courage to say no, and the consequence was that she gave
+a root to the first applicant, and that made it impossible for her to
+refuse the second one and those who came after, and from that time to
+this she has kept giving away "toes," and her plant is a poor little
+thing to-day, not much larger than when it was first planted, while
+plants grown from it are large and fine. She wouldn't mind it so much if
+her friends were willing to divide _their_ plants with _their_ friends,
+but they will not do this "for fear of spoiling them." Instead, they
+send their friends to her. This is a fact, and I presume it can be
+duplicated in almost every neighborhood.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The flower-loving person is, as a general thing, a very generous person,
+and he takes delight in dividing his plants with others when he can do
+so without injuring them. He is glad to do this because of his love for
+flowers, and the pleasure it affords him to get others interested in
+them and their culture. But there is such a thing as being overgenerous.
+Our motto should be, "Home's garden first, my neighbor's garden
+afterward."
+
+It is generally thoughtlessness which prompts people to ask us to divide
+our choice plants with them. If we were to be frank with them, and tell
+them why we do not care to do this, they would readily understand the
+situation, and, instead of blaming us for our refusal, they would blame
+themselves for having been so thoughtlessly selfish as to have made the
+request.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The question is often asked:
+
+"Why can't we save our own flower-seeds? Aren't the plants we grow just
+as healthy as those of the seedsmen we patronize year after year? Ought
+not the seed from them to be just as good as that we buy?"
+
+Just as good, no doubt, in one sense, and _not_ as good, in another. We
+grow our plants for their flowers. The seedsmen grow theirs for their
+seed, and in order to secure the very best article they give their
+plants care and culture that ours are not likely to get. Their methods
+are calculated to result in constant improvement. Ours tend in the other
+direction. The person who grows plants year after year from home-grown
+seed will almost invariably tell you that her plants "seem to be running
+out."
+
+The remedy for this state of things is to get fresh seed, each year,
+from the men who understand how to grow it to perfection.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+One ought always to keep his shrubs and choice plants labelled so that
+no mistake can be made as to variety. We may be on speaking terms with
+the whole Smith family, but we never feel really acquainted with them
+until we know which is John, or Susan, or William. It ought to be so in
+our friendship with our plants. Who that loves Roses would be content to
+speak of La France, and Madame Plantier, and Captain Christy simply as
+Roses? We must be on such intimate terms with them that each one has a
+personality of its own for us. _Then_ we know them, and not _till_ then.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The best label to make use of is a zinc one, because it is almost
+everlasting, while a wooden one is short lived, and whatever is written
+on it soon becomes indistinct.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In attaching any label to a plant, be careful not to twist the wire with
+which you attach it so tightly that it will cut into the branch. As the
+branch grows the wire will shut off the circulation of the plant's
+life-blood through that branch, and the result will be disastrous to
+that portion of the plant.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Different varieties of perennials ought to be kept track of quite as
+much as in the case of shrubs. As the old stalks die away and are cut
+off each season, there is no part of the plant to which a label can be
+attached with any permanence. There are iron sockets on the market into
+which the piece of wood bearing the name of the variety can be inserted.
+An all-wool label would speedily decay in contact with the soil.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Sometimes we get very amusing letters from parties "in search of
+information." Not long ago a woman sent me a leaf from her Boston Fern,
+calling my attention to the "bugs" on the lower side of it, and asking
+how she could get rid of them. How did I suppose they contrived to
+arrange themselves with such regularity? A little careful investigation
+would have shown her that the rows of "bugs" were seed-spores. If
+anything about your plants puzzles you, use your eyes and your
+intelligence, and endeavor to find out the "whys and wherefores" for
+yourself. You will enjoy doing this when you once get into the habit of
+it. Information that comes to us through our own efforts is always
+appreciated much more than that which comes to us second-hand. Make a
+practice of personal investigation in order to get at a solution of the
+problems that will constantly confront you in gardening operations.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In answer to another correspondent who asked me to recommend some
+thoroughly reliable fertilizer, I advised "old cow-manure." Back came a
+letter, saying I had neglected to state _how old_ the cow ought to be!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+But the funny things are not all said by our correspondents. I lately
+came across an article credited to a leading English gardening magazine
+in which the statement was made that a certain kind of weed closely
+resembling the Onion often located itself in the Onion-bed in order to
+escape the vigilance of the weed-puller, its instinct telling it that
+its resemblance to the Onion would deceive the gardener! Is anyone
+foolish enough to believe that the weed knew just where to locate
+itself, and had the ability to put itself there? One can but laugh at
+such "scientific statements," and yet it seems too bad to have people
+humbugged so.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A woman writes: "I don't care very much about plants. I never did. But
+almost everybody grows them, nowadays, and I'd like to have a few for my
+parlor, so as to be in style. You know the old saying that 'one might as
+well be out of the world as out of fashion.' I wish you'd tell me what
+to get, and how to take care of it. I want something that will just
+about take care of itself. I don't want anything I'll have to bother
+with."
+
+My advice to this correspondent was, "Don't try to grow plants."
+
+The fact is, the person who doesn't grow them _out of love for them_
+will never succeed with them, therefore it would be well for such
+persons not to attempt their culture. This for the plant's sake, as well
+as their own. Plants call for something. Plants ask for something more
+than a regular supply of food and water. They must have that
+sympathy,--that friendship--which enables one to understand them and
+their needs, and treat them accordingly. This knowledge will come
+through intuition and from keen, intelligent observation, such as only a
+real plant-lover will be likely to give. Those who grow plants--or
+_attempt_ to grow them--simply because their neighbors do so will never
+bring to their cultivation that careful, conscientious attention which
+alone can result in success. The idea of growing a flower because "it is
+the fashion to do so!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It may seem to some who read what I have said above that I do not
+encourage the cultivation of flowers by the masses. That's a wrong
+conclusion to jump at. I would like to have everybody the owner of a
+flower-garden. Those who have never attempted the culture of flowers are
+very likely to develop a love for them of whose existence, of the
+possibility of which, they had never dreamed. A dormant feeling is
+kindled into activity by our contact with them. But these persons must
+begin from a better motive than a desire to have them simply because it
+is "the style." The desire to succeed with them _because you like them_
+will insure success. Those who would have flowers because _it is the
+fashion_ to have them may experience a sort of _satisfaction_ in the
+possession of them, but this is a feeling utterly unlike the pleasure
+known to those who grow flowers _because they love them_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I am not a believer in the "knack" of flower-growing in the sense that
+some are born with a special ability in that line, or, as some would
+say, with a "_gift_" that way. We often hear it said, "Flowers will grow
+for her if she just _looks_ at them." This is a wrong conclusion to
+arrive at in the cases of those who are successful with them. They do
+something more than simply "look" at their plants. They take intelligent
+care of them. Some may acquire this ability easier and sooner than
+others, but it is a "knack" that anyone may attain to who is willing to
+keep his eyes open, and reason from cause to effect. Don't get the idea
+that success at plant-growing comes without observation, thought, and
+work. All the "knack" you need to have is a liking for flowers, and a
+desire to understand how you can best meet their special requirements.
+
+In other words, the _will_ to succeed will find out the _way_ to that
+result.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Just now, while I am at work on the last pages of this book, comes an
+inquiry, which I answer here because the subject of it is one of general
+interest: "Every spring our Crimson Rambler Roses are infested with
+thousands of green plant-lice. The new shoots will be literally covered
+with them. And in fall the stalks of our Rudbeckia are as thickly
+covered with a _red_ aphis, which makes it impossible for us to use it
+for cut-flower work. Is there a remedy for these troubles?"
+
+Yes. Nicoticide will rid the plants of their enemies if applied
+thoroughly, and persistently. One application may not accomplish the
+desired result, because of failure to reach all portions of the plant
+with it, but a second or a third application will do the work.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+By way of conclusion I want to urge women with "nerves" to take the
+gardening treatment. Many housewives are martyrs to a prison-life. They
+are shut up in the house from year's end to year's end, away from
+pleasant sights, sounds, fresh air, and sunshine. If we can get such a
+woman into the garden for a half-hour each day, throughout the summer,
+we can make a new woman of her. Work among flowers, where the air is
+pure and sweet, and sunshine is a tonic, and companionship is cheerful,
+will lift her out of her work and worry, and body and mind will grow
+stronger, and new life, new health, new energy will come to her, and the
+cares and vexations that made life a burden, because of the nervous
+strain resulting from them, will "take wings and fly away." Garden-work
+is the best possible kind of medicine for overtaxed nerves. It makes
+worn-out women over into healthy, happy women. "I thank God, every day,
+for my garden," one of these women wrote me, not long ago. "It has given
+me back my health. It has made me feel that life _is_ worth living,
+after all. I believe that I shall get so that I live in my garden most
+of the time. By that I mean that I shall be thinking about it and
+enjoying it, either in recollection or anticipation, when it is
+impossible for me to be actually in it. My mind will be there in winter,
+and I will be there in summer. Why--do you know, I did a good deal more
+housework last year than ever before, and I did it in order to find time
+to work among my flowers. Work in the garden made housework easier.
+Thank God for flowers, I say!"
+
+Yes--God be thanked for flowers!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+  +-------------------------------------------------------------+
+  |   _Gardening Books                                          |
+  |   By Eben E. Rexford_                                       |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   The Home Garden                                           |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   A practical book for the use of those who own             |
+  |   a small garden in which they would like to grow           |
+  |   vegetables and small fruits.                              |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _Eight full-page illustrations. 12mo. 198 pages,          |
+  |   cloth, ornamental, $1.25 net._                            |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   Four Seasons in the Garden                                |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   This book treats of all phases of the subject,            |
+  |   from the simple bed or two along the fence in a           |
+  |   city back yard, to the most pretentious garden of         |
+  |   the suburban or country dweller.                          |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _Twenty-six illustrations in tint, colored frontispiece,  |
+  |   decorated title page and lining papers.                   |
+  |   Crown 8vo. Cloth, $1.50 net._                             |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   Indoor Gardening                                          |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   The information that is given in this book                |
+  |   was gained by the writer through personal work            |
+  |   among flowers, and the methods described have             |
+  |   all been successfully tried by him.                       |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _Colored frontispiece and 32 illustrations. Decorated     |
+  |   title page and lining papers. Crown 8vo.                  |
+  |   Ornamental cloth, $1.50 net._                             |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   Amateur Gardencraft                                       |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   A book for the home-maker and garden lover.               |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _Colored frontispiece, 33 illustrations in tint, decorated|
+  |   title page and lining papers. Crown                       |
+  |   8vo. Ornamental cloth, $1.50 net._                        |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _J. B. Lippincott Company_                                |
+  |                                                             |
+  |   _Publishers_ _Philadelphia_                               |
+  |                                                             |
+  +-------------------------------------------------------------+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Amateur Gardencraft, by Eben E. Rexford
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