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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels in the Far East, by Ellen Mary Hayes
+Peck
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Travels in the Far East
+
+
+Author: Ellen Mary Hayes Peck
+
+
+
+Release Date: March 31, 2008  [eBook #24971]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Peter Vachuska, Chuck Greif, Greg Bergquist, and the
+Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team
+(https://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 24971-h.htm or 24971-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/9/7/24971/24971-h/24971-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/9/7/24971/24971-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST
+
+[Illustration: _The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo_]
+
+
+TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST
+
+by
+
+ELLEN M. H. PECK
+(Mrs. James Sidney Peck)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+New York
+Thomas Y. Crowell & Co.
+Publishers
+
+Copyright 1909
+By Ellen M. H. Peck
+
+The University Press, Cambridge, U.S.A.
+
+
+
+
+OZYMANDIAS
+
+
+  I met a traveller from an antique land
+  Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
+  Stand in the desert. Near them, on the sand,
+  Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown,
+  And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command,
+  Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
+  Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
+  The hand that mocked them and the heart that fed:
+  And on the pedestal these words appear:
+  "My name is Ozymandias, king of kings;
+  Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
+  Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
+  Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare
+  The lone and level sands stretch far away.
+
+  --PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY
+
+
+TO MY DAUGHTER
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD
+
+
+As the inspiration which caused the making of this "Tour" came from my
+daughter (the "you" of my story), and as she wished a record of the same
+published, my desire has been to give her as complete an idea of my
+journeyings as is possible by descriptive text and illustrations. The
+interest of friends in the plan has caused them to be included in my
+thought, and if the public desire to be added to the personal
+acquaintances whom I regard as my readers it will prove a pleasant
+recognition of a modest plan.
+
+The nine months tour included Egypt, Northern India, Burma, Southern
+India, Ceylon, Malay Peninsula, Java, Siam, Southern China, Japan,
+Northern China, Manchuria, and Korea.
+
+Realizing that impressions suddenly formed are not always to be trusted,
+an attempt has been made to have them tested by comparison with those
+formed by a longer residence.
+
+In like manner only statements have been made on the authority of those
+who claimed to have knowledge and experience. The lack of guidance of
+either a Baedeker or a Murray has been felt in Java, Siam, China,
+Manchuria, and Korea, small local guide books and guides not being an
+equivalent as regards accurate testimony.
+
+May these pages prove a pleasant reminiscence to those who have visited
+the scenes described, and an introduction to those who have not thus
+travelled, but some of whom may plan to "do likewise."
+
+  E.M.H.P.
+
+  MILWAUKEE, December, 1908
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+                          PAGE
+
+  MILWAUKEE                  1
+
+  CHICAGO                    1
+
+  NEW YORK                   1
+
+  THE AZORES                 4
+
+  GIBRALTAR                  4
+
+  MARSEILLES                 5
+
+  PORT SAÏD                  7
+
+  CAIRO                      9
+
+  SUEZ CANAL                34
+
+  ADEN, ARABIA              36
+
+  BOMBAY                    37
+
+  JEYPORE                   48
+
+  DELHI                     56
+
+  AGRA                      67
+
+  FATEHPUR-SIKRI            76
+
+  CAWNPORE                  79
+
+  LUCKNOW                   80
+
+  BENARES                   82
+
+  SILIGURI                  88
+
+  DARJEELING                89
+
+  CALCUTTA                  93
+
+  BURMA                     97
+
+  PROME                    109
+
+  RANGOON                  109
+
+  SHWE DAGON               111
+
+  MADRAS                   116
+
+  TANJORE                  118
+
+  TRICHINOPOLY             120
+
+  MADURA                   122
+
+  TUTICORIN                124
+
+  COLOMBO                  124
+
+  NUWARA ELIYA             127
+
+  KANDY                    129
+
+  ANURADHAPURA             132
+
+  CEYLON                   141
+
+  BATAVIA, JAVA            145
+
+  BUITENZORG               147
+
+  GAROET                   150
+
+  DJOKJAKARTA              154
+
+  MAOS                     166
+
+  BANGKOK                  174
+
+  SINGAPORE                201
+
+  JOHORE                   201
+
+  HONG-KONG                204
+
+  CANTON                   209
+
+  MACAO                    216
+
+  SHANGHAI                 225
+
+  NAGASAKI                 229
+
+  KOBE                     231
+
+  ONOMICHI                 232
+
+  OSAKA                    233
+
+  KYOTO                    234
+
+  NARA                     246
+
+  YAMADA                   248
+
+  NAGOYA                   250
+
+  YOKOHAMA                 251
+
+  NIKKO                    252
+
+  TOKIO                    260
+
+  A VISIT TO NORTH CHINA   264
+
+  PEKING                   273
+
+  TIENTSIN                 301
+
+  SHANHAIKWAN              302
+
+  MUKDEN                   305
+
+  NIUCHWANG                309
+
+  DALNY                    310
+
+  PORT ARTHUR              310
+
+  CHEMULPO, SEOUL          317
+
+  TOWARD YOKOHAMA          326
+
+  HOMEWARD BOUND           345
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+  The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo                       _Frontispiece_
+
+  Meshrebeeyeah windows                                                6
+
+  A bridge spanning the Nile at Cairo                                 11
+
+  The peculiar head-dress of the Cairo women                          13
+
+  The Mosque of Amr                                                   17
+
+  The interior of the Tomb Mosque of Kalaûn                           20
+
+  Fountain in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan                              24
+
+  Openwork dagobas                                                    26
+
+  Citadel and Mosque of Mahomet Ali                                   28
+
+  The obelisk marking the site of Heliopolis                          33
+
+  The Suez Canal near Port Saïd                                       36
+
+  Aden, Arabia                                                        39
+
+  Victoria Station at Bombay                                          41
+
+  Queen's Road at Bombay                                              43
+
+  Country scene in Bombay                                             44
+
+  A Tower of Silence                                                  46
+
+  Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta                           48
+
+  Street scene in Jeypore                                             51
+
+  A Hindu woman of Jeypore                                            53
+
+  Interior view of Amber Palace                                       55
+
+  General view of Amber Palace and fort near Jeypore                  57
+
+  A gateway built during the seventeenth century in Delhi             59
+
+  The Pearl Mosque at Delhi                                           59
+
+  The Hall of Private Audience in the Palace, Delhi                   61
+
+  Jumma Musjid, Delhi                                                 61
+
+  The tomb of Emperor Humayun                                         64
+
+  Northern colonnade of the Islam mosque, showing ruined arch         66
+
+  Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi                      68
+
+  Gateway leading to Taj Mahal                                        70
+
+  Taj Mahal                                                           70
+
+  Screen in Taj Mahal                                                 70
+
+  Shah Jahan and his wife in whose memory the Taj was built           70
+
+  Agra Palace and part of wall and gateway to the fort                73
+
+  An Octagon Tower of the Agra Palace                                 73
+
+  The Pearl Mosque                                                    74
+
+  Akbar's tomb in Sikandra                                            74
+
+  General view of Fatehpur-Sikri                                      77
+
+  A column in the Audience Hall (Diwan-i-Khas)                        78
+
+  Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj                           81
+
+  The ghat at Cawnpore                                                81
+
+  The Residency at Lucknow                                            82
+
+  Bathing ghat, Benares                                               84
+
+  Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur                       84
+
+  The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares                86
+
+  A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range                     89
+
+  A Nepaulese group                                                   91
+
+  The Government House in Calcutta                                    94
+
+  An avenue of palms in the Botanical Gardens                         96
+
+  Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay                                98
+
+  Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the Universe    98
+
+  The Arakan Pagoda                                                  100
+
+  One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas                        100
+
+  The Queen's Golden Monastery                                       103
+
+  Karen women in Mandalay                                            103
+
+  Burmese country house near Mandalay                                104
+
+  A national dance at Mandalay                                       107
+
+  On the Irrawaddy River, near Sagoing                               109
+
+  General view of Rangoon                                            111
+
+  Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon                                       112
+
+  Entrance gateway, Shwe Dagon Pagoda                                112
+
+  Chapels on platform around Shwe Dagon, Rangoon                     112
+
+  Elephants carrying logs at Rangoon                                 115
+
+  The Gilded Sule as seen from Hytche Square                         115
+
+  General view of Madras                                             117
+
+  The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore                            119
+
+  Fort Rock, Trichinopoly                                            121
+
+  The Golden Lily Tank, Madura                                       123
+
+  Entrance to the Madura Temple                                      123
+
+  Street Scene in Colombo                                            124
+
+  General view of Nuwara Eliya                                       129
+
+  General view of Kandy                                              131
+
+  Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy                           132
+
+  Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy                                132
+
+  Ruins of Anuradhapura                                              135
+
+  Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba                             136
+
+  The Moonstone Steps                                                139
+
+  Mihitale Steps                                                     141
+
+  Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon                                      143
+
+  The canal in the old city of Batavia                               144
+
+  Batavia, Java                                                      147
+
+  View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue                         149
+
+  A village scene in Garoet, Java                                    151
+
+  The crater of Papandajang                                          153
+
+  The ruined temple of Prambanam                                     155
+
+  Bas-reliefs in the Siva Temple, Prambanam                          155
+
+  The stairs leading to a Prambanam temple                           155
+
+  The Three Graces in the Lara Jongram Temple, Java                  157
+
+  The old temple at Mendoet                                          159
+
+  Boro Boedor, in Java                                               162
+
+  Stairway of Boro Boedor, Java                                      162
+
+  Boro Boedor, Java, showing one part of the gallery                 162
+
+  A public square in Djokjakarta, Java                               165
+
+  Designing sarongs in Batavia                                       167
+
+  Landscape near Batavia                                             169
+
+  Javanese vegetable sellers                                         170
+
+  A Javanese dignitary and his attendants                            172
+
+  The King of Siam                                                   175
+
+  In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok                         180
+
+  Entrance to Prakeo, the Royal Temple                               182
+
+  The Klong Canal at Bangkok                                         185
+
+  The famous Elephants' Kraal                                        189
+
+  Tower of Royal Palace at Ban-Pa-In                                 190
+
+  A Siamese girl                                                     193
+
+  A royal barge at Bangkok                                           194
+
+  The collier quay at Singapore                                      201
+
+  The Sultan's Palace at Johore                                      202
+
+  A general view of Hong-Kong                                        205
+
+  The public gardens in Hong-Kong                                    205
+
+  A typical street in a Chinese city                                 207
+
+  A five-story pagoda                                                211
+
+  Temple of the Five Genii at Canton                                 212
+
+  The San Paulo Façade                                               215
+
+  The bund at Macao, called Praia Grande                             216
+
+  The bund at Shanghai                                               224
+
+  Mogi Road at Nagasaki                                              228
+
+  The main street in Kobe                                            231
+
+  The fort and castle at Osaka                                       232
+
+  The rapids near Kyoto                                              235
+
+  Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto                                             235
+
+  The Golden Pavilion                                                237
+
+  The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa                    238
+
+  Kasuga Temple                                                      243
+
+  The Temple of Ise (Yamada)                                         249
+
+  Nagoya Castle                                                      250
+
+  The way to the Temple, Ieyasu                                      254
+
+  Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple                                            254
+
+  A five-story pagoda                                                257
+
+  The gate called Yomei-mon                                          259
+
+  The Imperial Palace at Tokio                                       261
+
+  Court of the Temple Shiba at Tokio                                 263
+
+  Gate of Chionin in Kyoto                                           264
+
+  Ueno Park pagoda                                                   264
+
+  The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River                        268
+
+  Road to Kaling above Kia-Kiang                                     270
+
+  The Hankow bund                                                    272
+
+  The Great Wall at Peking                                           274
+
+  Hata-men Gate                                                      277
+
+  Peking girls                                                       278
+
+  Llama Temple                                                       278
+
+  A Peking cart                                                      281
+
+  The Confucius Temple                                               281
+
+  Temple of Classics                                                 281
+
+  The Inner Temple of Heaven                                         282
+
+  Outer Heaven, Temple of Heaven, Peking                             285
+
+  The White Pagoda of the Yellow Temple                              286
+
+  The Winter Palace of the Forbidden City                            289
+
+  View from the Forbidden City                                       288
+
+  Marble Terrace of the Summer Palace                                291
+
+  Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace                                 291
+
+  Nankow Pass                                                        292
+
+  A tower of the Great Wall                                          295
+
+  Five Arch: First pailow of the Ming Tomb                           295
+
+  Emperor Yunglo's tomb                                              297
+
+  Emperor Kwangsu of China                                           298
+
+  The Dowager Empress of China                                       300
+
+  Gordon Hall at Tientsin                                            303
+
+  Old gateway of Tientsin                                            303
+
+  The Temple at Mukden                                               306
+
+  Dalny                                                              310
+
+  Port Arthur before the siege                                       313
+
+  Tiger-Tail Promontory and Port Arthur during the conflict          315
+
+  203-Metre Hill, Port Arthur--The last point to be taken            317
+
+  The city wall and gate of Seoul                                    319
+
+  A group of Koreans                                                 320
+
+  An old tomb of a high official                                     323
+
+  A white marble pagoda in Seoul                                     324
+
+  Street scene in Seoul                                              326
+
+  Torii Miyajima                                                     328
+
+  Stone lanterns, Miyajima                                           330
+
+  Islands of the Inland Sea                                          332
+
+  Mississippi Bay                                                    335
+
+  View of Miyanoshita                                                336
+
+  Theatre Street in Yokohama                                         340
+
+  Mountains around Hakona                                            343
+
+  Mount Pali, Honolulu                                               344
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST
+
+
+Milwaukee, _October 27th_, 1907: The adieux have been said, the friends
+have departed, and the train is moving slowly out of the station; a
+profusion of flowers, tempting new books, and other gifts are visible
+proofs of the thoughtfulness of friends on the eve of a long journey in
+untried fields, and it seems as if I had lost my moorings and was
+drifting out on an unknown way.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CHICAGO is reached, and after a hurried transfer of trains I am speeding
+on to my objective point, New York. An interval of two days and there is
+a hurried departure for the pier and "the die is cast."
+
+There is always a sense of exhilaration on the sailing of a steamer from
+New York, despite the sadness of the leave-taking; and the receipt of
+many gifts, telegrams, and letters keeps up the excitement until after
+the departure of the pilot. But as the shore line recedes and we drift
+out to sea, there comes a realization of an entire change of environment
+and of the rending of former interests, which is, of itself, a fine
+preparation for the mental equipment necessary to assimilate the new
+scenes to be visited.
+
+The November Second party of Collver Tours "Round the World," sailing on
+the _Friedrich der Grosse_, North German Lloyd line, was to embrace ten
+individuals, aside from an accomplished Director, each to be independent
+of the other, but all supposed to fit into a harmonious whole. After the
+formal presentations were over, there came a sense of relief, for
+refined manners, culture, and the experience of much travel were
+apparent, and promised well for the months of companionship which were
+to ensue.
+
+The localities represented by the several members in the party were as
+follows: Boston, three; Philadelphia, four; New York, one; Lafayette,
+Indiana, one; Ottawa, Illinois, one; and Milwaukee, Wisconsin, one. This
+is an indication of varied personality and diversified taste.
+
+The elements did not prove propitious in the days that followed our
+departure, and we were forced to bear the stress of wind and storm with
+becoming resignation, feeling personally thankful for indemnity from
+fatal results. Such a voyage does not lend itself to much diversion or
+variety of interests, but there were the usual attempts at gayety in the
+line of dancing, music, and the exhilarating "Captain's dinner"; hence
+with congenial people the days were pleasantly whiled away. Among the
+fellow passengers were some former friends, but I will mention only
+those who in a sense belong to the public.
+
+There was Mr. Edward P. Allis with his family; he was formerly of
+Milwaukee, but for many years has been a resident of Mentone, France,
+where he has continued his researches along biological lines, and where
+he has also superintended the publication of a valuable magazine
+relating to his special subject. I am happy to state that he has
+received, in consequence, distinguished recognition from the French
+Government, even the decoration of the Legion of Honor. He is also the
+recipient of orders from other foreign governments, and the Wisconsin
+University has conferred a high degree upon him.
+
+Another friend was Dr. Baldwin, of Rome, Italy, who has an international
+reputation as a specialist on diseases of the heart.
+
+A new acquaintance was Mr. Theodore M. Davis, of Newport, Rhode Island,
+who from November to April, on his finely appointed dahabiyeh, makes the
+Nile his home, at Luxor. For some years he has superintended valuable
+excavations in the Tombs of the Kings at Thebes, defraying the expense
+of the work himself. He holds the only concession granted by the
+Egyptian Government, on condition that the result of his discoveries
+become the property of the State; these so-termed "finds" are very
+valuable, and a special room has been devoted to them in the Museum of
+Gizeh at Cairo.
+
+Our arrival at the Azores was the first excitement of the voyage, and I
+had expected to renew the pleasant associations of the day we passed
+together on San Miguel, at the picturesque city of Ponta Delgada. But,
+alas! we sailed on and there was only a memory; by the subtle power of
+association another memory haunted me also, that of Funchal, Madeira,
+with its balmy air and luxuriant vegetation.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+GIBRALTAR: The world-renowned fortress of Gibraltar was reached after
+some hours' delay, and we were welcomed by sunshine and a June-like
+temperature.
+
+The attractions there are not numerous, but they are unique;
+unfortunately, a visit to the fortified galleries is now denied to
+visitors, but a beautiful drive to Europa Point and to the neutral
+ground, together with a walk through the park called the Alameda, is a
+fair compensation. The shops which line the narrow streets possess an
+Oriental aspect, and the general view of the massive fortifications
+afforded much interest to those who had not made a previous visit. But
+the picturesqueness of former visits--the motley crowd of Moors, Arabs,
+Spaniards, and Turks at the wharf--was lacking; while the venders of
+fruit, flowers, and laces were far less numerous, but quite as
+persistent, as of old.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_November 12th_: The steamer _Magnolia_, of the P. & O. line, became our
+home to Port Saïd, named for the Viceroy of Egypt, who granted the
+concession for the building of the Suez Canal. We were at once charmed
+with the general arrangement of the vessel, the salons for ordinary use
+being large and airy; the staterooms were smaller than those of the
+Atlantic service, but were finely ventilated.
+
+The passage to Marseilles, France, consumed about thirty-six hours, and
+the time was spent partly in planning a sight-seeing expedition to take
+place immediately after our arrival. The Gulf of Lyons, however, gave us
+a stormy reception; and, as the gale (mistral) increased, the harbor was
+reached. To be near a destination and yet unable to enter the port was
+most tantalizing!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MARSEILLES: The approach to Marseilles is rather disappointing, as there
+are intervening islands of bare rocks; but later the heights appear, the
+Church of Notre Dame de la Garde being a prominent feature of the view.
+
+Owing to the delay in landing, only two hours' stay on shore was
+granted, which was a great disappointment to many of us, but less so to
+me, as I had previously visited the city, and remembered the enjoyment
+derived from my stay there.
+
+On our return to the steamer, a novel sight presented itself. The vessel
+was anchored close to the dock on which is a low embarkation shed,
+fronting on a wide passage-way, which was now filled with a motley
+group. At the back there was a fringe of color from many baskets of
+fruit, flowers, and plants in charge of dealers, clad in costumes of
+varied hues, with red shawls tied over their heads. Each hawker was
+intent on extracting coins from the interested spectators, who hung over
+the side of the steamer. In the foreground were acrobats of every
+description, dressed in all the colors of the rainbow; among them was a
+group of five musicians of tender years, an acrobat in pink tights who
+was exploiting the skill of his little daughter, scarcely five years of
+age, and another similarly cruel father, who was compelling a little
+girl to go through all manner of contortions. There was also a group of
+little girl dancers. This picturesque but painful sight impressed us
+with the necessity for the establishment here of a society for the
+prevention of cruelty to children.
+
+[Illustration: _Meshrebeeyeah windows_]
+
+Two hundred and fifty more passengers were added to the steamer list at
+Marseilles, and henceforth the vessel was to be taxed to her utmost
+capacity. Most of the passengers were _en route_ for a five weeks'
+voyage to Australia, many of them were friends, and a general spirit of
+jollity prevailed, the decks presenting the appearance of a seaside
+veranda, with their tables, lounging-chairs, work-baskets, and toys. A
+"sports" committee was at once formed, and games of all kinds were
+played (always for prizes), while a concert, dances, and bridge
+enlivened the evening hours.
+
+On the night of November 17th we passed the volcano of Stromboli (now
+inactive), our steamer gliding between it on one side and the isles of
+Pina on the other; some hours later the Straits of Messina were reached;
+while, farther on, the island of Candida was passed. A church service
+was held aboard both morning and evening (the latter in the second-class
+salon), this being the invariable rule on English steamers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PORT SAÏD, _November 20th_: As we approached Port Saïd, everything was
+at first shadowy--the lighthouse, a group of palms, and a minaret
+seeming to rise out of the sea. There were a few points of land called
+Damietta, but all else was flat. At last we steamed into the harbor,
+anchoring at the mouth of the Suez Canal, and were taken ashore in a
+launch amidst a confused yelling of voices,--indeed a perfect Babel.
+
+With only three or four hours in Port Saïd, there was little time for a
+close survey, but we walked through some of the streets, called at a few
+shops of no special interest, and had afternoon tea at one of the
+hotels, to the accompaniment of music furnished by native musicians. We
+had always heard Port Saïd spoken of as "the wickedest place in the
+world," and we commented on the apparent absence of such a condition;
+but we were assured by one of the tourists that wickedness did exist,
+and we accepted the statement without an attempt to verify it.
+
+Port Saïd gains its principal importance from being the starting-point
+of that great waterway, the Suez Canal, of which we form our first
+impression from the fact that ten years' time was required for its
+construction and $100,000,000 were expended on the work, the payment of
+which impoverished Egypt and was one of the causes that led to the
+protectorate of England. This is said to be a humiliating condition to
+all true Egyptians.
+
+The monument at Port Saïd, raised in honor of Ferdinand de Lesseps, as
+the founder of the enterprise, emphasizes France's contribution to the
+project.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CAIRO, _November 20th_: A late train to Cairo caused us to arrive near
+midnight, an inopportune time for first impressions, but the memory of a
+former visit caused a pleasant anticipation of scenes to be revisited. A
+week, however, was too short a time in which to cover the ground, but by
+persistent effort on our part much was accomplished.
+
+Having headquarters at Shepheard's Hotel--with its foreign arrangement
+of rooms and furnishings, together with its gayly attired attendants,
+many of them costumed in red, yellow, green, or blue silk trimmed with
+gilt, and wearing silk turbans to match--gave us at once an Oriental
+environment. The central location of the building, with the opportunity,
+also, which the wide terrace afforded guests for making observations,
+offered us an immediate insight into the unique life of the city. The
+venders of fruit, flowers, postal cards, and souvenirs formed a
+foreground of many colors, while beyond was an unceasing flow of motley
+carriages, native vehicles, carts, donkeys, and camels, and sometimes
+two resplendent outriders (called "Sikhs"), on fine chargers, heralded
+the approach of some dignitary,--a custom which is, however, dying out.
+
+The most novel sight which came to our notice was a wedding procession,
+the bride being ever carefully concealed by silken curtains thrown over
+either a carriage or a peculiarly constructed litter borne by two
+camels, one at the front and one at the back; a band of music preceded,
+followed by vehicles of many different kinds containing members of the
+bridal party, all _en route_ for the bride's home.
+
+It must be remembered that Cairo, while in one sense a modern city,
+presents many clearly defined mediæval phases; this is particularly true
+throughout its native quarters, as exemplified in streets and bazars in
+the vicinity of the Nile, and in its old-time mosques; in this
+connection I would emphasize the bazars, both Turkish and Arabic. Some
+of the old irregular thoroughfares on which the bazars are situated
+radiate from the wider and more important Muski; then, again, there are
+narrower alley-like streets, a veritable tangle! The bazars everywhere
+are similarly constructed, but vary in size and importance; they are
+box-like in form, from four to six feet in width, and six to eight feet
+in height, and are raised one or two feet from the ground, with three
+sides enclosed and the fourth open to the street by day, but at night
+closed, the fourth wall sliding into place like a folding door.
+
+Here is usually to be found, for a certain distance, but one kind of
+goods, be it slippers, brass-work, or embroideries, alternating with
+eatables, fruit, pipes, and the like, there being no attempt at
+classification. Woe be to the unwary who approach these bazars without
+the ability to "bargain"; for there is ever a scale of prices, and the
+topmost one is usually exorbitant!
+
+[Illustration: _A bridge spanning the Nile at Cairo_]
+
+Within the open space of his shop sits the dealer, ready for the
+contest, sometimes complacently sipping his coffee, or smoking a
+cigarette, the long Turkish pipes having been largely abolished. The
+courtesy of coffee or a cigarette is often extended to the purchaser,
+which possesses a mollifying effect if the discussion over a purchase
+has waxed high.
+
+It is said that the scenes in the Turkish bazars on a fête day are like
+a picture from the "Arabian Nights," the places being illuminated by
+many candles or chandeliers, and covered by awnings formed of rich
+shawls, scarfs, and embroideries brought from the interior. This gives
+each bazar the appearance of a reception room, with the dealer seated
+within, dispensing hospitality, every one being dressed in holiday
+attire. The bazars in Cairo are considered an important feature of the
+life of the city (as they are in every place throughout the Eastern or
+Western Orient), but they are less attractive than those I visited in
+Tunis, Constantinople, or Damascus.
+
+The crowd that is passing the shops often proves more interesting than
+the display within, as there are natives of all ages and descriptions,
+Arabs, Bedouins, Turks, and Egyptians, some mounted on donkeys and some
+driving heavily laden camels. Water-carriers with jars, mostly women,
+are among them, while the natives usually carry under the arm the
+characteristic pigskin, filled with water. These are the sights to be
+seen, together with the venders of fruit and vegetables, alternating
+with richly equipped carriages, and funeral or bridal processions. Men
+and women in their Oriental dress jostle the crowd of sight-seers who
+ever throng these ways.
+
+In these, but more often in a better class of streets, we pass the
+lovely meshrebîya windows, with their intricate turned lattice-work
+designs; they are very frequently oblong projecting windows, but instead
+of glass there is used the fine tracery or lattice-work in wood. Sad to
+relate, this fine work is sharing in the general decay to be found in
+the old quarters of Cairo, and, in a few years, the tourist will only be
+able to view the specimens even now being sent to the Arabian Museum,
+which institution is, by the way, doing a splendid work in preserving
+and classifying all artistic remains, notably those from the crumbling
+mosques.
+
+Except in the matter of decay, I found little change in the native
+portion of the city since my visit in 1898; but the aspect of the city
+proper has grown modern. Fine new streets, public buildings and
+residences, are seen everywhere in the Ezbekieh and Ismailian quarters
+of the city, while certain sections suggest a European capital. The
+Ezbekieh Gardens, opposite the Continental Hotel, form really a small
+park in the centre of the city, and are a great resort for tourists as
+well as residents.
+
+[Illustration: _The peculiar head-dress of the Cairo women_]
+
+The Ismailian is the fashionable quarter of the city, and it is said
+that many wealthy citizens have left their former luxurious native homes
+for a modern residence in the new section. Hence many dealers in the
+bazars have secured the deserted Oriental homes, and now live in
+comparative luxury, showing that conditions and residential centres
+change in the Old World as well as in the New.
+
+But note how much more attractive the original home must appear to
+native eyes. A passage leads from the street to a spacious court, and
+grouped around the court, which usually has a fountain in the centre
+(with sometimes one or two trees), are the rooms for general use and
+those assigned to guests. The apartments occupied by the women of the
+family, commonly called the harem, are not visible, but are generally
+spacious and well furnished, even luxuriously appointed, with inlaid
+floors, decorated walls, and rich rugs. The light filters through either
+meshrebîya or flat latticed windows, for no profane eye can gaze on the
+supposed loveliness of damsel and dame, nor can they, in their turn,
+gaze outward for any distance, which shows the restricted social
+condition of the women.
+
+It is said that they are virtually regarded with contempt, and, though
+usually kindly treated in the harem, they are considered only as
+ornamental appendages of the home; hence they are rarely educated, and
+never in more than those accomplishments, such as music and dancing,
+which tend to add to their attractiveness.
+
+The better classes of women are always seen veiled, and, with the
+peculiar covering over the nose, one can only judge of their appearance
+by their often very beautiful eyes. Oh, the infinite sadness to be found
+in the depths of many of them!
+
+I was, however, told by a gentleman, long resident in Cairo, that there
+are indications of a gradual change as regards education, the wives of a
+few high officials having been educated on broader lines than mere
+accomplishments; hence it is to be hoped that the leaven will work in
+time. It may also be found later that the transference of the harem from
+an Oriental home to a Number 9 residence on a fashionable street will
+lessen the seclusion heretofore imposed.
+
+The Nile is always a centre of interest, not only for those who explore
+it to the cataracts or Khartoum, but for natives and tourists who throng
+its banks to catch a glimpse of the queer sailing craft, and to watch
+the never-ending procession that passes over it,--men, women, vehicles,
+and animals filling every available space.
+
+It is quite the fashion for parties of tourists to repair to the bridge
+at 5 A.M. in order to watch the marketmen, venders of all kinds, and the
+heavily laden donkeys and camels fulfilling their part in the labor of
+supplying the city markets.
+
+Once across the bridge, the procession from the country is even more
+picturesque; and, viewed from a waiting "tram" in the late afternoon,
+when all are homeward bound, the scene is most incongruous. Sometimes
+four or five heavily veiled women in black robes are seen on one of the
+long two-wheeled carts, drawn by an emaciated horse with a native at his
+head as a propelling power; next, follow a flock of geese, two or three
+score of goats, a group of sheep, four or five camels looking down with
+a superior air on the donkeys, as well as pedestrians of many
+complexions and of varied dress--Arabs, Bedouins, Soudanese, and
+Egyptians,--their queerly shaped turbans and brilliant colors lending
+the finishing touch to the scene. Nowhere else in the Orient does such a
+view present itself, and its setting is the Nile!
+
+The last glimpse of the Nile, the evening before my departure, will
+never be forgotten. The occasion was an invitation to indulge in
+afternoon tea at the Hôtel Semiramis, near the entrance to the bridge.
+We lingered on for the sunset, which first appeared as a flaming ball
+of fire, succeeded by myriad shades of rainbow hues, these fading into
+softer tints and later into those more delicate tones that prelude the
+twilight. Then silence seemed to brood over the wonderful river, and we
+departed.
+
+If the street scenes, the bazars, and the Nile are an index to the
+native life of Cairo, a greater claim may be made for the mosques, in
+which the city abounds; for they represent political changes, social
+evolution, and artistic development, as history proves. To substantiate
+this claim of the mosques, a brief digression is necessary.
+
+The origin of Cairo dates back to the Muslim invasion in 640; the
+original Arab settlement was called Fustât, the "Town of the Tent,"
+which is substantially the old Cairo of to-day. Here was erected almost
+at once the first mosque, that of Amr, sometimes called Amru. In 751 a
+northeast suburb was added, called El Askar; this was to be the
+residence of the Governor, and here also was erected the Mosque of El
+Askar. Keeping still to the northeast, another city was added, in 860,
+by the first independent Muslim King of Egypt, Ibn Tûlûn, called El
+Katâi; the "wards" became divided into separate quarters for various
+nations and classes, and here was erected the remarkable Mosque of Ibn
+Tûlûn. A fourth city still farther northeast was added a little over a
+century later, called El Kâhira (the Cairo of to-day); this did not
+become the commercial capital of Egypt, but occupied the same relation
+to Fustât that El Askar and Katâi held. The Town of the Tent, resting on
+the bank of the Nile, still remained the metropolis, as it did after the
+fall of both El Askar and Katâi--the disaster to these latter cities
+giving additional prestige to El Kâhira.
+
+[Illustration: _The Mosque of Amr_]
+
+The building of a mosque[1] was regarded by the rulers not only as an
+expression of religious zeal, but as a contribution to the life of the
+State. Several mosques were erected during the two centuries of Arab
+rule, but Amr was the first and most important. It is situated near the
+site of the old Roman city of Misr, where Amr first pitched his tent, on
+the invasion of Egypt. The outside of the old mosque is not imposing,
+but, with the vast court forty thousand feet in area, surrounded by
+colonnades consisting of numberless columns with every variety of
+capitals (taken from Christian churches), it excites our admiration.
+Wooden beams, stretched from column to column, formerly supported one
+hundred and eighty thousand hanging lamps which illuminated the edifice
+every night, while throngs of learned men, professors, and persons of
+many conditions gathered there daily for lectures and discussion. The
+great convocation was on Friday, when a sermon and prayers were the
+order of the day, the immense court affording ample space for the
+multitude, while the large east end sanctuary gave room for persons of
+distinction to kneel. The mihrab, or niche, where worshippers turned
+toward Mecca, the pulpit, and the tribunal were also features of the
+edifice. We now see little of the original mosque, for it has been
+remodelled from time to time; but it still remains the best type of the
+congregational mosque (called Gami, meaning "assembly"), and to me it
+seemed, as I looked upon it, one of the most impressive monuments of a
+dead past that I had ever seen.
+
+With the political change in 868, which introduced the Turkish period,
+Ibn Tûlûn became the ruler, and another era of mosque and palace and
+hospital building prevailed. The Mosque of Ibn Tûlûn is the only
+monument that survives; it is also a congregational type and has the
+same general style as Amr; it is the earliest instance of the use of the
+pointed arch throughout a building, this being two centuries earlier
+than its use in England. Five rows of arches form the arcade, or
+cloisters, on the Mecca end of the building, with two rows on the other
+three sides. The ornaments on the arches and around the windows are in
+stucco, and are worked by hand in the plaster, instead of being moulded
+as is the stucco work of the Alhambra. These consist of a bud, flower,
+and rosette pattern. Another century passed on, when, in 969, the
+victorious Gauhar forced the passage of the Nile and assumed possession
+in behalf of a Fatimid caliphate (named Fatimid, for a daughter of
+Mohammed). This event presaged a religious as well as a political
+change, for the Fatimids were apostates from the true faith and
+advocated the doctrines of Shi'a, one of the tenets being that the Koran
+had been created, and another that there had been Mohammeds or inspired
+men in every century. Shi'a now became the State religion, and for two
+centuries held sway over Egypt.
+
+This period was famous for palace building, and the descriptions of the
+magnificence and luxurious furnishings read like a fairy tale. Mosque
+building was not neglected, and there are two notable examples of the
+congregational form, El Azhar and El Hâkim. El Azhar was founded by
+Gauhar on April 3, 970, and in 988 it was especially devoted to the uses
+of learning. It soon became one of the chief universities of the time,
+and in 1101 there were nine thousand students and two hundred and
+thirty-nine professors. The foreign students even now pay no fee and are
+allowed rations of food, there being an endowment for this purpose. It
+is, however, still used to a certain extent as a mosque; but it does not
+now preserve the regular plan of a mosque, having been remodelled and
+added to several times. It has six minarets and a spacious court
+covering three thousand six hundred square yards, with one hundred and
+forty columns and numerous side chambers which are devoted to lectures,
+libraries, and laboratories.
+
+At the time of our visit this court was filled with individual groups of
+about thirty students, each around a professor; they were sitting
+cross-legged on the floor, and were chanting their lessons with a
+swaying motion of the body. A class of small children was of special
+interest, studying passages of the Koran from cards. The Mosque of El
+Hâkim was completed in 1013, and was so resplendent throughout that it
+was known as the "Brilliant." This mosque has suffered more indignities
+than even the old Amr, but the vast, empty court, with its partly ruined
+arches, still has a certain dignity. There were originally five
+minarets.
+
+[Illustration: _The interior of the Tomb Mosque of Kalaûn_]
+
+Leaving the Mosque of El Hâkim on the right, we have Bâb El-Futûh, the
+Gate of Capture, which is connected by the city wall with the companion
+Bâb En-Nasr, or Gate of Victory. These two gates guard the strong
+northeast extremity of the old city fortifications, and in 1799 formed a
+strong position for the troops of Napoleon. With Bâb Zuweyler, they are
+the most important of the sixty gates which once existed in the wall of
+Cairo. They have an inner and outer entrance and resemble a Roman
+gateway.
+
+The Fatimid rulers outvied each other in embellishing Kâhira with
+artistic structures; this seems surprising because, on account of the
+charge of heresy, Kâhira was cut off from the Arabian centres of art and
+learning,--from Bagdad, Damascus, and Cordova,--and of course the
+artists and students, who formerly frequented the mosques, could not do
+so when they were in the hands of heretics. This condition of affairs,
+together with other causes, produced a crisis, as will be seen.
+
+The advance of Amalric and the Crusaders, in 1168, not only resulted in
+the downfall of the Fatimids, but in the destruction of old Fustât,
+Shawar, the ruler, having issued a mandate for it to be burned in order
+to prevent the city from becoming a refuge for the Crusaders. The fire
+lasted fifty-five days, and the city in all its magnificence, having
+been the metropolis for five centuries, perished, a portion of the old
+Mosque of Amr alone remaining. Kâhira then took its place as the
+official centre of Egypt.
+
+Saladin, the King of Jerusalem, now became ruler of Egypt, and he at
+once adopted strong measures to win the apostates back to the true
+faith. With a wisdom far in advance of his time, he planned to educate
+the followers of Shi'aism by the introduction of madrasah mosques and
+colleges. Heretofore we have had the Gami, or congregational mosque,
+with a severely plain exterior. The madrasah mosques of this period
+contained a smaller court, which was frequently capped with a cupola in
+the centre; the sides of the court, instead of being surrounded by
+arcades, were formed of four transepts, each spanned by a single lofty
+arch. The transept toward the east was deeper than the others, forming
+the niche for prayer; it was also furnished with the usual mihrab,
+pulpit, and tribunal. Fine façades, minarets, and domes took the place
+of the usual plain exterior; the dome was generally utilized as the
+covering of a tomb or was intended for future memorial use. The
+religious exercises (daily prayers, except on Friday, with sermons) were
+in the nature of a school training in the interest of the true
+Mohammedan faith.
+
+The exterior of the madrasah college was not unlike the mosque
+described, but the interior included facilities for theological
+lectures, together with classrooms and libraries for general study; the
+students were received on the very terms described in connection with
+the university Mosque of El Azhar. These, in general, were the means
+employed by Saladin to win all back to the true faith; in time he was
+successful, and Kâhira no longer rested under the stigma of heresy.
+
+The dignity of the Fatimid age was lowered by Saladin's quartering the
+officers of his army in the magnificent palaces, while he occupied the
+house of the Viziers. Shortly every monument of the brilliant Fatimid
+period had vanished, with the exception of four mosques and the three
+gates previously alluded to. Saladin, however, inaugurated a new era of
+building, and during his nominal reign of twenty-four years three
+mosques and sixteen colleges attest his zeal to the "cause." He also
+built the citadel, and the great wall which was to enclose not only
+Kâhira but the remains of the old cities. To him the present city of
+Cairo owes its form and extent.
+
+The tomb Mosque of Kalaûn was built in 1279 by the ruler of that name,
+and is adjacent to the fine hospital, bearing the same name also; while
+not large, it contains exquisite examples of wood carving, marble
+mosaic, and plaster ornament worked in by hand. Seventy-seven years
+later, in 1356, we find that, in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan, the
+sculpture was in stone; hence, the material being unyielding, the
+designs are geometrical, instead of arabesque, as in the plaster. This
+is one of the most important mosques of any age, and is the most
+characteristic of the madrasah form. Seen from without, the walls appear
+even higher than the accredited one hundred and thirteen feet; they are
+built of fine cut stone, from the pyramids, and windows relieve the
+monotony of bare surface. There is a fine portal, set in an arched niche
+sixty-six feet high, which is decorated with geometrical designs and
+which has corner columns and capitals. The interior gives one an
+impression of immense size, on account of the great span of the four
+arches; the one at the east end is ninety feet high and seventy feet
+wide, and is unequalled. The mosaics and marbles, however, are less
+artistic than in the later mosques. The tomb chamber, entered from the
+east, has a finely decorated door of brass, and is encircled by a marble
+dado, twenty-five feet high, above which is a verse from the Koran
+carved in wood. In the centre of the room is the grave of the founder.
+The original dome fell in 1660, and was replaced by an inferior one;
+there were to have been four minarets, but these collapsed also. The
+court is well proportioned and contains an artistic fountain for
+ablution.
+
+[Illustration: _Fountain in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan_]
+
+We saw the bronze lantern and many of the enamelled glass lamps in the
+Arabian Museum, which forms a depository for ancient works of art; the
+mosque has suffered greatly from devastation and abuse, but it still
+retains a prestige among its class that not even time can efface. It is
+said that Sultan Hasan was so delighted with the edifice that he ordered
+the architect's hands cut off, for fear he might duplicate his
+success,--an act committed presumably on the principle that "the end
+justifies the means."
+
+The Circassian as well as the Turkish Mamelukes were great builders of
+mosques and colleges, particularly Sultan Barkûk (1382-1399) and Sultan
+Kâït Bey (1468-1496). Their edifices are marvels of artistic skill, and,
+by the time of Kâït Bey, perfection seemed almost to have been reached.
+This is particularly true of the tomb mosques, situated in the mausolea
+on the east side of the city, and known as the Tombs of the Khalifs.
+That of Barkûk is noticeable, on account of its two superb domes, its
+two minarets, and a carved pulpit, the latter erected by Kâït Bey. The
+Mosque of Kâït Bey is, however, the finest of the group; it has a lofty
+dome, adorned with bands of sculpture, minarets with galleries, and
+bronze doors. There are beautiful ivory carvings over the tomb, while
+the edifice is lighted by fifty colored glass windows. Near by, the
+smaller modern tomb mosque of the Khedive Tewfik (the father of the
+present Khedive), which is resplendent with a wealth of interior
+decorations, suffers in comparison.
+
+The defeat of the Mamelukes, and the Ottoman occupation of Kâhira in
+1517, caused no cessation of mosque building; but there was a departure
+from the Saracenic models, and also a still more marked return to the
+congregational form than had been witnessed in the days of the great
+builders just noted. This is evident in the last great mosque of the
+modern period, that of Mohammed Ali (the independent monarch), begun by
+that ruler, but not completed until 1857. It is situated in the citadel
+and has an immense court, surrounded by arcades; but, unlike the
+original type, it is covered with an immense dome, producing an
+impressive effect. The exterior has also four smaller domes (one on each
+side) and two very tall minarets, with shorter ones on each corner. The
+mosque is likewise called the Alabaster Mosque, as the columns are built
+of yellow alabaster and the walls encrusted with it; its location in the
+citadel gives it a commanding position, and, being modern, it has
+escaped the ravages of time.
+
+[Illustration: _Openwork dagobas_]
+
+Only a few representative mosques have here been outlined
+architecturally (several others were visited), but an attempt has been
+made to give these their political and social significance and
+setting. Of the artistic side of the picture, it is claimed, on high
+authority, that there have been manifested, in the construction of these
+mosques, great architectural skill, perfection of ornament in wood,
+plaster, and stone, and a careful adherence to Saracenic principles.
+
+The most conspicuous point in Cairo is the citadel, erected by Saladin
+in 1166, and constituting a fitting monument of his reign. From its
+position and its fortification, it would seem almost invincible; but,
+unfortunately, the fortress is itself commanded by the higher Mokattam
+hills, as was shown in 1805, when Mohammed Ali, by means of a battery
+placed on a hill, compelled Karishid Pasha to surrender the stronghold.
+The mosque of Mohammed Ali, placed in the citadel, as already described,
+can be seen from every side, and the barracks are also a prominent
+feature; but the presence of British troops seems hardly to harmonize
+with the Oriental environment.
+
+A fine view of the city may be seen from the ramparts, but it is
+surpassed by the view to be had from the Mokattam hills; on our way
+there, some of the party took donkeys from near the citadel, but others
+(like myself) walked, if the exercise of ploughing through the deep
+furrows of sand may so be termed. A slippery climb, and all of Cairo
+with its environs lay before us--and such a view! It was in the late
+afternoon of a perfect day; the scene was, in the main, Oriental, the
+European touches being less visible from a distance. First, a confused
+stretch of domes, minarets, and roofs; then a separate mosque stood out,
+and we recognized Sultan Hasan and Ibn Tûlûn. Farther on were seen the
+towers above the Bâb Zuweyler gate; then the Tombs of the Khalifs,
+blended together, and still farther there appeared the shadowy outlines
+of the old Mosque of Amr. At our feet stood the citadel, while the
+Alabaster Mosque and the line of arches marking the old aqueduct were
+clearly visible. The setting sun illumined the silver line of the Nile,
+touched the distant pyramids resting on the desert, and revealed the
+far-away step pyramid of Sakkara. Its glory seemed all to be gathered
+here, suffusing the whole panorama, and resting upon the scene like a
+silent benediction.
+
+The island of Rodda divides the Nile, and was formerly connected by
+bridges of boats with both the island of Gizeh and Fustât, now old
+Cairo. It was formerly a place of commercial importance, and had
+extensive dockyards; according to tradition it is a place of Biblical
+associations, since a palace occupied by Pharaoh's daughter is pointed
+out, and also the place on the river where Moses was found in the
+bulrushes.
+
+[Illustration: _Citadel and Mosque of Mahomet Ali_]
+
+The old Nilometer, for measuring the depths of the Nile, which was
+erected in 716, is of interest. It consists of a square well, sixteen
+feet in diameter, having, in the centre, an octagonal column on which
+the ancient Arabic measures are inscribed. It was last remodelled in
+1893. We visited old Cairo and the Coptic churches, six of which are
+situated in the precincts of the ancient castle of Babylon. The Copts
+are considered fine representatives of the old Egyptians, and they have
+succeeded in preserving their language and liturgy through twelve
+centuries of fierce oppression. The Fatimid period alone allowed them
+some measure of toleration; their religious forms are similar to those
+of the Greek church, but their discipline is more severe, their Lenten
+fast covering a period of fifty-five days, with abstinence from sunrise
+to sunset.
+
+The Church of St. George will illustrate the peculiar arrangement of
+their religious edifices. Following the example of the older Egyptian
+Byzantine churches, the nave and tribune are uncovered and the side
+aisles have galleries. The nave has three divisions: first, a vestibule;
+second, a section set apart for women; and third, another section for
+men. There are the usual choir, sanctuary, and side chapels, and the
+division between the choir and the sanctuary is ornamented with carvings
+in wood and ivory. The church also contains Byzantine carving and
+mosaics, and is characterized by the usual richness in decoration. A
+flight of twelve steps descends into the crypt, a small vaulted chapel
+with marble columns situated under the choir. At the end of the nave is
+an altar, around which has sprung up the tradition that the Virgin and
+Child there rested during a month's stay, after the flight to Egypt. The
+Church of St. Sergius is similar in construction, as are others of the
+group, besides hundreds more scattered through Egypt. The dust of ages
+clung to our skirts as we left the desolate scene, and there was within
+us the consciousness that, for old Cairo, there could be no
+resurrection.
+
+One of the places that might consume days in the inspection is the
+Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, which it is impossible to describe in a
+limited space. But to the student of Egyptology and to the tourist it is
+alike important, because, in its monuments of stone and bronze, it
+presents visible proofs of a wonderful past, while the sarcophagi,
+mummies, and other remains taken from the tombs, reveal the life and
+habits of the early Egyptians.
+
+With only two mornings for an inspection, we devoted one to a general
+view of the museum, and the other to the fine collection of our
+fellow-traveller, Mr. Theodore Davis, for which a special room is
+reserved. Mr. Davis courteously explained to us the different objects,
+or "finds"; these included artistic articles of household use, a fine
+group of Canopic jars, and miscellaneous pieces of unusual merit (all
+from the tombs of the Kings at Thebes); the whole exhibit showing what
+an enthusiast, with time and means, can accomplish in the interest of a
+buried past.
+
+An excursion of great meaning is that to the pyramids. Crossing the
+Nile, we followed its course to the former palace of Gizeh; then the way
+led inland, along what was formerly a fine carriage drive, but now one
+usually takes the tram to save time. Our arrival was exciting, owing to
+the number of persistent Bedouins who met us with donkeys and camels. A
+white donkey, named Snowflake, and an attendant, named Yankee Doodle,
+fell to me, while a camel, named Mary Anderson, was allotted to a
+friend. An inquiry as to why American names prevailed, revealed the fact
+that the names of the animals are adjustable, according to the
+nationality of the party to be supplied.
+
+The appearance of the pyramids is familiar the world over, but an actual
+view of these monuments of hoary age ever inspires awe and reverence. As
+we ascended the plateau (twelve hundred by sixteen hundred yards), and
+rode within the shadow of the pyramids, our feeling was deepened by the
+view of the barren waste stretched before us,--yellowish sand and piles
+of debris accentuating the solitude of the place, while the inscrutable
+Sphinx and other monuments added their silent testimony.
+
+A more extended view revealed "the river of rivers," on each bank of
+which appeared a green line of foliage; beyond this could be dimly seen
+cultivated fields with intersecting canals, while tiny villages lent the
+human touch, and far away, Cairo, with her gleaming domes and minarets,
+became an appropriate background for the scene.
+
+All the members of our party having previously visited the spot, we were
+spared the excitement of climbing the walls and entering the chambers,
+greatly to the disappointment of our guides, to whom the prospect of
+extra bakshish is always alluring. Our tour of observation consumed so
+much time that the usual programme of five o'clock tea at the Hôtel Mene
+was abandoned. On our arrival in the city, the mantle of night had
+fallen,--a peaceful close to a never-to-be-forgotten day.
+
+Another afternoon's excursion was made by carriage to the old villages
+of Matariya and Heliopolis. Near the former place is an ancient gnarled
+sycamore, under which, so tradition says, the Holy Family rested in
+their flight to Egypt. The present tree was planted in 1672, but the
+credulous still believe it to be a direct descendant of the original
+one. A fine spring which flows in the vicinity is also supposed to
+have lost its natural brackish taste on account of the infant Jesus
+having been bathed in it. A half-mile farther on is Heliopolis, the old
+City of the Sun. It is now marked by the solitary obelisk, which alone
+remains to remind us of a past that stretches untold centuries back of
+the Muslim conquest of Egypt in 640; and of a city that was the exponent
+of the most ancient civilization of the world.
+
+[Illustration: _The obelisk marking the site of Heliopolis_]
+
+The obelisk is the oldest Egyptian one known; it is of red granite,
+sixty-six feet in height, although it seems lower on account of the mass
+of debris at the base, and is inscribed with hieroglyphics. There remain
+a few granite blocks of the temple, designated the House of Ra, whose
+priests were so learned as to have attracted Plato when a student, to
+have drawn Herodotus into discussion, and to have laid the foundation of
+Moses' wisdom.
+
+Heliopolis has been the scene of many stirring events, the victory of
+the Turks over the Mamelukes occurring there in 1517, while in 1800
+General Kléber successfully led the French forces against the Turks. The
+memory of the active past serves to emphasize the present solitude of
+the place.
+
+A favorite resort of the Cairo folk is the island of Gezireh; here a
+long avenue of lebbek trees furnishes a fashionable promenade, while
+games of golf, tennis, cricket, and polo, together with the races, are
+a constant source of attraction. The once famous palace of Gezireh (the
+scene of great festivities at the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869) is
+now turned into a popular hotel; its grounds slope down to the Nile,
+where dahabiyehs are sometimes anchored; an inspection of one of these,
+the _Bedouin_, excited our admiration.
+
+The time of our stay was drawing to a close, and Cairo was again to
+become "memory" with a past stretching back into centuries without
+number. Egypt has a human history that is almost appalling to the
+thoughtful mind; this limitless stretch of time may, in part, explain
+the peculiar, indefinable charm that Cairo has upon the imagination of
+the beholder, thus winning for herself the appropriate name of the
+"Mysterious City of the Nile."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PORT SAÏD, _November 26th_: The return to Port Saïd in the afternoon was
+followed by our departure on another P. & O. steamer, the _Arabia_, for
+Bombay, India.
+
+One enters the Suez Canal with peculiar sensations, as it is a waterway
+of vast importance, connecting the Mediterranean and Red Seas, and so
+narrow that the shores on both sides are distinctly visible. It extends
+from Port Saïd to Suez, and is nearly one hundred miles in length; it is
+artificial, with the exception of a channel through Bitter Lakes and
+Lake Tinsuh. All along the way, we were virtually traversing the desert,
+Isma'iliya presenting a small oasis, fifty miles from Port Saïd. From
+the deck we watched the monotonous scene, hour after hour, the landscape
+being old and colorless, with great billows of sand in the foreground,
+and here and there occasional hillocks. Once we saw mountains of sand,
+called the Gebel Abû Batah range. Sometimes a few native huts would
+appear (the mere semblance of a village), then a stray camel or two, or
+a group of natives with their pigskins, intent on securing water. The
+Great Bitter Lake is a fine body of water, and it afforded us a
+temporary relief from the monotony of the Canal. There was a short stay
+at Suez, which has all the stir of a noisy modern port. We were now for
+a time in the Gulf of Suez, but saw nothing except a yellow beach and
+low outlying mountains; we longed for even a patch of grass, but, alas!
+this was the season of drought, and vegetation was slumbering.
+
+But if Nature was dull and lifeless, there was no lack of jollity on
+board the steamer; for the passengers were mostly English, and there
+were constant games or other devices for "killing time," in which the
+English as a nation are so proficient.
+
+We sailed out of the Gulf of Suez into the Red Sea, which afforded some
+variety of scene, as there were occasional islands, that of Perim being
+the most important and a possession of Great Britain. It stands
+prominently out of the sea in its length of two miles, and seems almost
+destitute of vegetation, although there was a little settlement close to
+the shore.
+
+Thus far, contrary to all expectation, we had had comfortable weather;
+but Aden, a few hours later, gave us a heated welcome. This small city
+of Arabia is picturesquely situated on the Arabian Sea, high up on rocky
+cliffs; we had anticipated a hurried survey of the city, but the heat
+was so excessive that only a few gentlemen ventured ashore; however, we
+had a little diversion on the steamer in the interval, as numerous
+natives appeared with amber beads, ostrich feathers (which are a noted
+commodity of the place) and fans; this provoked the usual contest in
+bargains.
+
+The evening brought us compensation for a day of heat, with its
+consequent languor, in the shape of a gorgeous sunset; a huge ball of
+fire hung in the west and radiated great streaks of red, yellow, and
+blue, these fading away into the softer tints, and then came the most
+wonderful afterglow, the heavens being suffused, and the whole scene
+making one breathless, as if under a spell.
+
+[Illustration: _The Suez Canal near Port Saïd_]
+
+The Arabian Sea gave us an aftermath of heat, but, remembering with
+considerable satisfaction that the days of our transit were nearly
+over, we assumed an indifferent air.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BOMBAY, _December 6th_: On nearing India, with its far-away past, I was
+convinced that I would be first impressed with its Oriental aspect, but,
+on the contrary, the approach to Bombay presented a decidedly modern
+phase. There is a fine, almost semi-circular harbor, with a modern quay,
+and tall buildings encircling the shore, the tasteful Royal Bombay Yacht
+Club in the front, the spacious new Taj Mahal Hotel to the left, having
+about a block of frontage on the bay, while farther back were other tall
+buildings. Dusky faces greeted us at the landing, and a Babel of voices
+in an unknown tongue, or rather tongues, since many tribes were
+represented, each with their separate dialect.
+
+Arriving at the Taj Mahal, we felt a sense of strangeness, as the
+arrangement of rooms and the service were distinctly foreign. There were
+almost too many attendants or servants (two for each room, an upper and
+a lower one), and the waiters in the dining-room were more interesting
+to me than the menu,--the Portuguese wearing white uniforms with short
+jackets, pink vests, and black ties; the Mohammedans attired in long
+white tunics, with wide belts at the waist, loose trousers, and
+barefooted.
+
+It was reserved for an afternoon drive through the crowded native
+quarter, however, to give us a striking impression of the India of the
+past. Every nook and corner of the narrow streets seemed a blaze of
+color--women in their full skirts of many shades of red (that color
+predominating), with diverse novel waist arrangements and a profusion of
+jewelry, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and anklets. Men were in their
+many-hued turbans of various styles, with no clothing to the waist and a
+limited supply below. Then there were boys and small children,--the
+former with only a loin cloth, the latter as Nature made them, with
+silver chains bearing quite large hearts suspended around their waists,
+and with smaller chains around their necks, each supposed to ward off
+sudden calamity or disease.
+
+But, if there was color in the dress, there was emaciation in the
+figure,--thin features, thin limbs, and flat chests being the prevailing
+type, a fair indication that their scanty supply of food does not
+furnish them sufficient nutrition. Northern India is the so-termed
+"famine district," and the famine of one year is said to have destroyed
+over four millions of people; pestilence is always threatening these
+natives, and besides, the demands for tribute of an enervated priesthood
+(who "toil not," alas! "neither do they spin") have to be met. So is it
+any wonder that poverty prevails and that sadness of countenance is
+everywhere seen?
+
+[Illustration: _Aden, Arabia_]
+
+The bazars are similar in arrangement to those in Cairo; but more novel
+wares are displayed, and less bargaining is resorted to. The European
+shops were satisfactory, and we invested at once in white felt topee
+hats lined with green, and also in ecru parasols similarly lined, for
+dire tales had been told us of the penalty we should suffer if we were
+not thus equipped, on account of the great power of the sun in midday;
+often the heat was known to bring on insanity (on the authority of a
+long-time resident of India). The wearing of that topee hat was a great
+personal sacrifice, as it was horribly unbecoming, and after some weeks
+of trial one of our party was brave enough to advise a second venture; a
+Calcutta style was tried, with no better results, so you can imagine the
+joy of the final "giving up"!
+
+If the native quarters revealed to us an unknown life, so did a country
+drive, for there were trees and shrubs never before seen, and queer
+little thatched houses of the bungalow type. Groups of cocoanut and
+other palms were all lacking in freshness, as this was the dry season,
+and dust must prevail until the arrival of the "monsoon," or rainy
+season, in May. The domestic animals seemed to thrive, such as camels,
+donkeys, bullocks, and there were many birds, the little mina and the
+green paroquets being of special interest, while immense black crows
+hovered about everywhere.
+
+The European aspect of Bombay is imposing, and the public and municipal
+buildings are hardly to be surpassed, the railway station claiming the
+distinction, architecturally, of being the finest in the world. The
+dominant type of public building is designed in what is called Gothic
+Indian style.
+
+The drive along Queen's Road is a dream of beauty. The private
+residences, each with fine grounds, are many and tasteful, those along
+Queen's Road being usually occupied by the military class or by
+officials in the civil service. Malabar Hill is also a residential
+centre, and a drive there affords one an extended view of the city.
+There also one may have a glimpse of the Arabian Sea, but a much better
+view is to be had from the grounds of the Towers of Silence, that
+strange exemplification of the faith of a peculiar people.
+
+We had met a Parsee gentleman of culture and refinement on the steamer,
+_en route_ for Bombay, which fact made us eager to learn something of
+this sect. They came to India from Persia, twelve hundred years ago,
+driven away on account of Mohammedan persecution. They are strict
+followers of the tenets of Zoroaster, their creed, briefly epitomized,
+being "Good thoughts, good words, and good deeds." There are about one
+hundred thousand in Bombay; as a class they are well educated, and have
+great business capacity; hence they are prominent in commercial affairs,
+particularly in banking. They are generous and charitable, and are at
+the head of most of the philanthropic institutions of the city; many
+distinctions have been won by them from the English Government.
+
+[Illustration: _Victoria Station at Bombay_]
+
+Their strange treatment of the dead shows what a strong hold custom and
+faith can have over a people; believing that fire is a symbol of Deity,
+and also revering the earth, neither cremation nor burial of the dead is
+permitted. The Towers of Silence, five of them occupying the most
+beautiful site on Malabar Hill, and surrounded by spacious grounds with
+trees, shrubbery, and flowers, hold the Parsee dead.
+
+These towers are of whitewashed stone, two hundred and seventy-five feet
+in circumference, and twenty-five feet in height; the upper floors are
+of iron grating, with three circles, whereon the corpses are placed; the
+inner circle is for children, the next for women, and the outer one for
+men. Thus placed, the vultures, which have been hovering about awaiting
+their prey, complete the work, and soon only the skeletons remain; these
+are thrown into a circular well in the centre of the enclosure, where
+they quickly turn to dust. This well has perforated holes in the
+bottom, so that the action of the rain can carry away the dust to still
+another receptacle, which in time reaches the sea. Previous to the
+ceremony, one hundred or more mourners, robed in white, may be seen
+walking up the hill, preceded by four men, carrying the bier on their
+shoulders. They pass into the house of prayer for a time, and then
+proceed to the Towers, where they are met by the only two men (of the
+outcast class) who are ever permitted to enter, to whom the body is
+consigned for the final rite.
+
+And yet, in spite of all this gruesomeness, the Parsees are a happy,
+social people, and their entertainments, particularly their weddings,
+are described as presenting a brilliant array of bejewelled women,
+tastefully dressed in the soft tinted silks they so much affect, with
+the long graceful veils falling to the feet. This is the only head
+covering worn in a carriage or on the street. The men, however, usually
+wear the conventional European dress, but on ceremonial occasions a
+white costume is required, with a small black hat.
+
+Another sombre feature of Indian life is the prevalence of caste, which
+no foreigner can expect to understand, so complex is the system. There
+are four general classes: the Brahman, or princely caste (this has four
+subdivisions); the military caste; the commercial caste; and the
+laboring caste, commonly called "coolies." These in their turn admit
+of many subdivisions, and when we realize that caste is hereditary and
+that whatever a man's ambition he can never rise above his station, even
+though he seek to secure promotion, we may understand what a yoke it
+imposes on the people.
+
+[Illustration: _Queen's Road at Bombay_]
+
+Another bar is custom, which is quite as iron-clad as is caste; whenever
+any improvement is suggested, either in dress or in living, the
+suggestion is usually met with the reply that it is prevented by custom.
+This applies particularly to the agricultural class, among whom the
+crude ploughs and other out-of-date implements cannot be replaced by
+modern ones, as it has been the custom to use the former. Even the
+carrying of heavy burdens on the head cannot be given up; woe to any one
+who suggests substituting the carrying of a basket! A laughable incident
+is told of a European gentleman who employed a number of men to carry
+sand; thinking to lighten their labor, he purchased wheelbarrows, but on
+visiting the scene of action a week later, he found the men with the
+barrows on their heads! No doubt, the reply to his protest was, "It is
+custom."
+
+Another deplorable condition in India is found among women, particularly
+of the lower classes, as they are considered of a more inferior order
+than the men of the family and are treated with little respect, being
+virtually slaves. The higher class lead secluded lives, but do not
+escape the inflexible law that demands the marriage of a girl by the age
+of fourteen, or the ostracism thrust upon the child widow, who, on
+returning to a home of which she was once an honored member, finds
+herself virtually an outcast. Her pretty clothes are taken from her, and
+she is required to do the menial work of the family; this is the Indian
+protest against the abolishing of the suttee, or the burning of widows
+on the funeral pyre of their husbands,--cruelties prevented by English
+rule, as are also the practice of child suicide and the passing of the
+Juggernaut car over the prostrate bodies of living victims.
+
+These phases are not pleasant to contemplate, but are none the less
+necessary to know, if one is to form even a superficial idea of
+"conditions." It is gratifying to learn that still more reforms are
+advocated, and that there are to be more schools established, similar to
+the one originated by Ramabai, not far from Bombay, as a refuge for
+child widows. She received financial aid when in the United States a few
+years since. Mrs. Annie Besant has also established, at Benares, a
+school under Theosophical auspices, called Central Hindu College; this
+has for its object the combination of religious, moral, mental, and
+athletic instruction for Hindu youths.
+
+[Illustration: _Country scene in Bombay_]
+
+The European residents of Bombay lead their own lives, and the social
+usages are quite the same as in England; the usual "sports" abound
+there, such as golf, tennis, and cricket, polo, and the races, while
+yachting has great prestige under the auspices of the aristocratic yacht
+club on Apollo Bunder.
+
+The Victoria and Albert Museum has a fine building, but an unimportant
+collection; it stands in Victoria Gardens (a park of thirty-four acres,
+well laid out), and near the south entrance are the remains of the stone
+elephant which gave the island of Elephanta its name; the gardens are a
+popular resort. In another portion of the city is the best statue of
+Queen Victoria to be found in India.
+
+An unusually fine market building is surmounted by a handsome
+clock-tower. There are large, well-equipped hospitals and a college, in
+addition to the number of buildings for public uses. One frequently sees
+gayly painted mosques and temples. Among the many ruins, those of Siva,
+called the Caves of Elephanta, are of most interest.
+
+A steam launch was taken at the Apollo Bunder, and, after an hour and a
+half on the bay, we arrived at the island; the landing was not
+agreeable, and we were met with a chorus of voices from boys and men,
+crying "Memsahib" this and "Memsahib" that; some were beggars, others
+were intent on renting their "chairs" for the ascent of the hill.
+
+The caves are excavations in the solid rock from fifteen to seventeen
+feet in height; originally there had been a plan, showing the
+arrangement of columns and colonnades, but the depredations of the
+followers of Mohammed in the past are everywhere to be seen. The
+entrance to one cave, however, is well preserved, as is also a group,
+almost life size, of Siva, Vishnu, and Brahma, called the Trinity. The
+caves are said to be the home of many deadly snakes, but none appeared,
+and a death-like stillness prevailed; once in the sunshine again, we met
+a snake charmer with a lively collection of what seemed to be cobras,
+but we declined to gaze upon them.
+
+Further visits to the streets and bazars revealed new scenes, and such a
+variety of nationalities! As Sir Edwin Arnold has written: "Here are
+specimens of every race and nation of the East, Arabs from Muscat,
+Persians from the Gulf, Afghans from the northern frontier, black shaggy
+negroes from Zanzibar, islanders from the Maldives and Laccadives;
+Malays and Chinese throng and jostle with Parsees in their sloping hats,
+with Jews, Lascars, Rajputs, Fakirs, European Sepoys, and Sahibs."
+
+[Illustration: _A Tower of Silence_]
+
+My vivid impression of Bombay is a memory of the June-like temperature
+(in December), the lovely drives, and the never-ending panorama of the
+water front as seen from my hotel windows, sometimes dazzlingly bright
+in the sunlight, and again subdued, as the soft opalescent tints of the
+twilight enveloped the landscape in a shadowy haze. Before me lay ocean
+steamers, merchantmen, a man of war, yachts, and many smaller vessels,
+with rowboats of diverse pattern; to the left was the pier, while the
+English flag floated from the attractive yacht club. It was, however, a
+typical Continental view, and not an Oriental one, so sharp an impress
+has England made on a city and island which were not acquired by
+conquest (it is pleasant to note), but as the marriage portion of
+Catharine of Braganza, of Portugal, when she became the bride of King
+Charles II of England. This transference was a fortunate thing for
+Bombay, all foreign residents and tourists agree, but native
+appreciation, if there is any, seems to slumber, as is the usual rule
+where colonization exists.
+
+The equipment of a party leaving for a tour through India is important,
+for a poor guide or an indifferent travelling servant (also called
+bearer) would mar the pleasure. Bedding and towels for each member of
+the party must be looked after (mostly for night travel, as the hotels
+now usually prepare the beds), the guides must also be supplied, and one
+must be careful to have appropriate clothing for the journey. Your
+travelling servant is, according to custom, not expected to do any
+menial service (so considered), such as strapping your trunks, or
+removing your hand luggage from your room. This work is performed by
+so-called coolies; of course, a travelling servant may be so obliging as
+to offer to carry your handbag (as was often done by ours), but you must
+be duly appreciative of this show of favor.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+JEYPORE, _December 10th_: On the morning of our departure from Bombay,
+we each found a fat, brown, English "hold-all," enclosing bedding, which
+was added to our luggage, the aggregate requiring much additional space
+in our compartments. Our route to Jeypore lay through Ahmedabad, once a
+place of much importance, and still of interest on account of its
+artistic mosques. But the lack of hotel accommodations for a party
+deterred us from stopping over, and also prevented our visiting the
+celebrated Jain temples at Mount Abû, a ride of several miles to the
+mountains in a jinrikisha. I would, however, advise all tourists to take
+this trip, even at some personal discomfort, as the temples are said to
+be marvellously beautiful.
+
+[Illustration: _Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta_]
+
+The arrival at Jeypore was in the chill of late evening; as we
+approached the Hotel Kaiser-i-Hind (the best the place affords), a blaze
+of light showed us a large open veranda, furnished with chairs, sofas,
+and tables, and evidently the salon of the hotel. My room opened from
+the end of the balcony, and it was large and cheerless, so all hope of
+warmth vanished; a small, dark bathroom was at one side (with no light
+except when a door was opened), furnished with the regulation high round
+bathtub and a shaky washstand; neither of the outer doors would lock!
+The floors on opposite sides of both rooms contained ominous-looking
+square openings, suggesting the possibilities of certain reptiles which
+we had been told existed, but which we had not yet seen. After viewing
+all these "tranquillizing" influences, we retired, having first undone
+the distasteful "hold-all" for extra bedding.
+
+The next morning dawned without the door having been opened and without
+the appearance of the dreaded lizards. The veranda salon presented an
+animated appearance; several men in turbans and wearing camel's-hair
+shawls (draped around the shoulders) were sitting on the floor,
+displaying their many commodities, which included embroideries, shawls,
+garnet beads (a specialty of Jeypore), necklaces of various kinds,
+together with swords, daggers, and the like, all warranted to be
+antique. "Memsahib" was heard in every direction, for the arrival of a
+party of supposedly rich Americans had been duly heralded. Resisting
+their importunities for the time being, we entered an inner room and
+found comfort and a fairly good breakfast waiting us. Such persistency
+and eloquence, nevertheless, as were later displayed by those dealers in
+describing their wares are seldom heard! Fortunate for us that some of
+the articles were attractive enough to be purchased, stilling the clamor
+for a time! But as we had been told that this would be the usual
+programme on our arrival at any place in the Orient, the future prospect
+was not alluring.
+
+While over a quarter of India's population as well as a third of its
+area is under native rule, the "beaten track" is subject to English
+régime. Hence the visit to Jeypore, the capital of the independent
+province of Rajputana, is always regarded as a new experience. We found
+indeed a unique city, situated on a plain, hemmed in by lofty hills,
+with streets and buildings the color of old rose pink, and with broad,
+regularly laid out thoroughfares, two long straight streets intersecting
+each other at right angles near the palace, thus forming four corners.
+Here is a fountain, and the point is a centre of life and action; crowds
+of people surge back and forth, almost trodden underfoot by the
+ever-present, ponderous elephants, camels, and bullocks, drawing the
+little _ekkas_,--every one disputing the right of way. Proceed in any
+direction and more unusual street scenes present themselves along a
+single block than can elsewhere be found, and this in a city less than
+two centuries old! It is due, however, to the barbaric character of an
+environment where a gorgeous Maharaja, tigers, leopards, and elephants
+all figure in the scene, where the crowds always seem happy and life is
+one large "merry go round."
+
+[Illustration: _Street scene in Jeypore_]
+
+The Palace of the Wind is a peculiar structure; visitors are not
+admitted, and it is usually reserved for the guests of the Maharaja on
+State occasions, the ruler being very hospitable. It is said that a
+polite intimation on the part of a tourist that he desires to visit the
+interior, coupled with some slight credential, will cause one or two
+elephants and a body-guard to be placed at his disposal for the
+expedition.
+
+Not much of the "Palace of Occupation" was seen; a large audience room
+was finely proportioned, but looked uninviting, as the rugs were rolled
+up and the furniture covered. The stables adjoining were, however, of
+great interest, as three hundred horses were in the collection, some of
+them of rare value. Later, we visited the elephant stalls and the
+leopard and tiger cages. In another locality the observatory, covering a
+large open space, was filled with the quaint old devices, now obsolete,
+for studying the heavens.
+
+The long streets are lined with bazars of the usual plan but much
+larger; workers in brass predominated, that being a specialty of
+Jeypore. There is a flourishing Art School where old forms of vases,
+lamps, and boxes are reproduced, the original designs being loaned from
+the Victoria and Albert Memorial Museum, which occupies an artistic
+building in the centre of spacious grounds. There one may find a rare
+collection of old brass, gold and silver enamel, wood carving, weaving
+and embroidery, all classified and arranged in historical order.
+
+A native school, or college, greatly interested us; there were groups of
+boys in a number of rooms, all belonging to the best Rajput families.
+There are special rooms devoted to Sanskrit, English (here the boys
+recited a poem in unison), history, logic, philosophy, and the natural
+sciences.
+
+There were a number of unpretentious Hindu temples, and the Maharaja is
+said to be quite punctilious in his observance of religious forms. He
+was absent from the city, but several brothers of his were seen driving,
+clad in long garments of gaudy-colored striped calico, and wearing small
+turbans; the dress of the women was also peculiar, the skirt being so
+full that as they walked they resembled balloons; they are noted for
+wearing a profusion of jewelry,--necklaces by the half-dozen, bracelets
+sometimes nearly to the elbow, anklets, heavy earrings, nose-rings,
+and finger-rings without number.
+
+[Illustration: _A Hindu woman of Jeypore_]
+
+Animals and birds in large quantities added motion and color to the
+street scenes, together with brightly caparisoned elephants, stately
+camels, and white bullocks with their long horns and dreamy eyes,
+drawing the little two-wheeled _ekka_, which sometimes carried four
+occupants. Peacocks flashed in and out at every turn (they are
+considered a sacred bird and are therefore protected), while
+blue-breasted pigeons came in clouds whenever there was a prospect of a
+feast.
+
+There are processions of various kinds, the highest function of all
+being a wedding procession, where the brilliancy varies according to the
+amount of means that can be expended by the prospective bridegroom. In
+one afternoon we witnessed eight of these spectacles; the first was
+given by a man of wealth who was seated on an elephant, the palanquin of
+which was gorgeous in its decoration; he himself was richly dressed, as
+were the attendant friends. The procession was preceded by a band of
+music, and in the group were six nautch, or dancing girls; at intervals
+of about two blocks, the cavalcade stopped, matting was thrown down, and
+the dancers came and executed a slow-measured dance, which continued for
+about five minutes; then the procession moved on to the next point,
+this programme continuing until the home of the bride was reached. All
+of this we witnessed. The other seven wedding processions presented
+variations; in one the principal actor was a boy of about fourteen who
+looked terrified; two of the processions consisted of poor men;
+sometimes carriages were substituted for the elephants, and the
+dancing-girls were omitted, but there were always music and a crowd.
+
+Elephants figured prominently in our trip to the old city of Amber, five
+miles distant, and the former capital of Rajputana. We left our carriage
+some distance away and were conveyed the remainder of the journey by two
+elephants, named Munsie and Bunsie, with gayly painted faces and trunks,
+furnished through the courtesy of the Maharaja. In this fashion we made
+our entrance.
+
+The old city of Amber is situated below the palace, which is on the side
+of a mountain, with a long-stretching fort back of it; the situation,
+together with the gray walls of the palace and the fort, all makes a
+striking picture, reminding one of mediæval times; the palace is well
+preserved, many of the rooms are artistic, and the fine public audience
+chamber particularly impressed us. Here large gatherings are held in
+connection with ceremonial occasions at Jeypore; the Prince of Wales
+had been entertained here two years previous, at which time the city
+of Jeypore was made resplendent with a fresh coat of the rose pink
+preparation.
+
+[Illustration: _Interior view of Amber Palace_]
+
+Near the entrance to the Amber Palace was an exquisite little Hindu
+temple, dedicated to the terrible goddess, Kali, who delights in
+sacrifice; this was presided over by a revolting-looking priest, and
+there were evident traces of the daily morning sacrifice of a goat. Once
+a year one hundred goats are offered up, together with other animals;
+formerly human beings were sacrificed to appease the goddess, but this
+slaughter is now prohibited by law. In a well-kept garden back of the
+palace there is a fine collection of tropical fruits and of unfamiliar
+shrubs. This ruined city of Amber must have presented a wonderful
+spectacle two centuries ago, before the pageants and old-time customs
+were transferred to its modern prototype, Jeypore.
+
+Another afternoon's experience in Jeypore seemed even more like a scene
+from a comic opera,--only the curtain is never lowered in this most
+spectacular city in India, if not in the entire world.
+
+The pleasure of our stay in Jeypore was greatly enhanced by the
+intelligence of the local guide, who was of the Brahman class and
+broadly educated; he had an enlarged idea of the benefit to be derived
+from a sojourn in the New World, but he seemed uncertain with regard to
+securing a position in New York. One of the gentlemen suggested that he
+might at first seek employment as a butler, but his reply was that it
+would be impossible for him to engage in any menial work on account of
+his caste; this is a mild illustration of the domination of social
+lines.
+
+A little wave of excitement was created on the morning of December 12th
+by a slight earthquake; we were still further shaken up by the constant
+presence of the persistent venders whenever we were at the hotel, who
+even followed us to the station the hour of our departure for Delhi,
+when articles were purchased by us at half their original price.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DELHI, _December 13th_: A greater contrast can hardly be imagined than
+that between barbaric, pleasure-loving Jeypore, and Delhi, a city full
+of old-time associations, whose triumphs of architectural skill and
+sculptured devices have won for it the admiration of the world.
+
+The fort and palace, together with the adjacent mosque, called Jumma
+Musjid, are the chief centres of interest and the points we first
+visited. The two places suffered greatly during the mutiny of 1857, and
+the old Mogul capital has passed through so many vicissitudes that a
+little historical setting seems necessary.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Amber Palace and fort near Jeypore_]
+
+Of the city's early history very little is known before the Mohammedan
+conquest, in 1193 A.D. There are, however, the ruins of two Hindu forts
+of the eleventh century in old Delhi (covering many miles south of
+Delhi), as well as the famous iron pillar of Kutub Minar, to be alluded
+to later. Delhi was not favored by the greatest of Mogul rulers, King
+Akbar, or by his son, King Jahangir; however, his grandson, Shah Jahan,
+built the fort in 1638, and later the palace and great mosque--hence the
+name, Shah Jahanabad, and in his connection with the Taj Mahal and
+palace at Agra, he won the title of the "Great Builder"; he also
+transferred the capital from Agra to Delhi.
+
+A century later, the city was sacked by Nadir Shah, of Persia, and a
+general massacre occurred. Although finally defeated, he took with him
+many treasures, among them the priceless Peacock Throne and the valuable
+Kohinur diamond; the latter is now in the possession of King Edward of
+England.
+
+Other changes followed, until, in 1804, British occupation was effected;
+but even then the descendants of the Mogul monarchs were allowed some
+show of royalty, until after the King's treachery and deposition at the
+time of the mutiny of 1857. This must be briefly alluded to, as it is
+truly said, "Delhi is steeped in mutiny memories!"
+
+Various causes have been assigned for this great mutiny of the Bengal
+troops, but it was probably due in part to a season of unrest, some
+minor event precipitating the crisis. The revolt occurred on May 10th,
+at Meerut, forty miles distant; at first there were but twenty-five
+hundred men, then other regiments joined them, and, on their arrival in
+Delhi, they attacked the civil offices, and the inmates were compelled
+to flee to the fort, where they were murdered.
+
+The Fifty-fourth Regiment marched to the relief, but most of the
+officers were shot, and the native soldiers refused to act,--a precedent
+followed by the natives of other regiments; thus the rebels were largely
+reinforced, and they soon had complete possession of the fort, which was
+then well garrisoned by native officers who were thoroughly trained in
+English tactics. The mutiny was now complete, and English rule for the
+time being ceased; disturbances also spread to Agra, Cawnpore, and
+Lucknow, so the army was necessarily divided; however, the bravery of
+the British forces at Delhi was such that by May 20th the fort and
+palace had been regained. The King was captured before Humayun's tomb
+(outside the city), and, the King's sons surrendering, they were shot in
+front of the Delhi gate of the fort. The victory, nevertheless, was only
+won through the sacrifice of many lives, the loss of officers being
+particularly heavy; the city also suffered greatly from the siege, and
+the beauty of the fort and palace was much impaired.
+
+[Illustration: _A gateway built during the seventeenth century in
+Delhi_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Pearl Mosque at Delhi_]
+
+There are two fine gates to the fort,--the Lahore on the west side, and
+the Delhi on the south side,--both built by Shah Jahan, between 1638 and
+1648. The fort is encircled by a massive red sandstone wall; we passed
+through the grand archway of the Lahore gate, into a vaulted arcade
+which Mr. Ferguson (the famous authority on architecture) considers the
+noblest entrance known to any palace. The arcade ends in the centre of
+the outer main court, measuring five hundred and forty by three hundred
+and sixty feet; the inner court is somewhat larger and is surrounded by
+cloisters or galleries. On the farther side of this inner court is the
+fine Hall of Public Audience, Diwan-i-Am, one hundred by sixty feet,
+where the proportions and the arrangement of columns and arches are
+perfect. At one end of this hall is a raised recess in which the Emperor
+used to be seated on the famous Peacock Throne, which Nadir Shah carried
+to Persia; before the throne, and lower, was the seat occupied by the
+prime minister, while above it were placed the inlaid panels by Austin
+of Bordeaux.
+
+The hall was restored under the direction of the late viceroy, Lord
+Curzon, and we saw Florentine artists renewing the inlaid work in the
+panels. The remarkable throne was six feet long and four feet wide; it
+stood on six massive feet, which, with the body of the chair, were of
+solid gold, inlaid with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. The throne took
+its name from having the figures of two peacocks standing behind it,
+their tails extended, and the whole so inlaid with sapphires, rubies,
+pearls, emeralds, and diamonds as to be lifelike in its color. All this
+was surmounted by a canopy of gold, and supported by twelve pillars,
+richly emblazoned with gems, while a fringe of pearls ornamented the
+edge of the canopy. There were still more costly adjuncts, but these
+details must suffice; it is needless to add that the loss of the throne
+was considered a national calamity.
+
+A gate on one side of this hall led to the inner court of the palace,
+and to the Hall of Private Audience, or Diwan-i-Khas, which is among the
+most graceful assembly rooms in the world. It is ninety by sixty-seven
+feet, and is built entirely of white marble, inlaid with precious
+stones; at either end of the hall is the famous Persian inscription:
+
+  "If heaven can be on the face of the earth,
+  It is this, oh! it is this, oh! it is this!"
+
+Not far removed from here are the royal apartments, consisting of three
+suites of rooms, with an octagonal tower projecting over the river
+Jumna. These rooms are all finely decorated. Beyond them are the Rang
+Mahal, or Painted Palace,--the residence of the chief Sultana,--and the
+royal baths, consisting of three large rooms fitted in white marble,
+elaborately inlaid. Opposite to this is the Moti Musjid, or Pearl
+Mosque.
+
+[Illustration: _The Hall of Private Audience in the Palace, Delhi_]
+
+[Illustration: _Jumma Musjid, Delhi_]
+
+There are more buildings that could be described, but some were injured
+at the time of the mutiny, and others have since been removed,
+presumably in the interest of modern requirements.
+
+We made our exit through the Delhi gate; between the inner and outer
+arches stand the Chettar elephants which were replaced by order of Lord
+Curzon. The Jumma Musjid is raised on a lofty basement; it has three
+gateways, four corner towers, two lofty minarets, and three domes. We
+ascended one of the towers and had an extended view; inside there is a
+spacious quadrangle, three hundred and twenty-five feet square, in the
+centre of which is a fountain for ablution; and on three sides there
+are sandstone cloisters. An immense concourse of people assemble here
+for prayer every Friday; the mosque in arrangement is very similar to
+the congregational mosques of Cairo.
+
+The Kalun Musjid, usually called Black Mosque, dates from 1386. It is of
+peculiar construction, having two stories, and is somewhat Egyptian in
+appearance. A Jain temple was so hemmed in by streets that its
+appearance was much impaired, but the interior was beautiful in design
+and finish.
+
+The street known as Chandni Chauk fully sustained its reputation as a
+shopping centre; it is over a mile in length and is always a scene of
+sparkle and commotion; on it were the usual bazars, but also many larger
+stores, as Delhi is considered the finest shopping point in India,
+particularly in precious stones,--jewelry being the commodity most
+heralded, as we learned to our sorrow.
+
+On arriving at Maiden's Hotel (under English management, but
+semi-Oriental in its arrangement), we complacently viewed our rooms on
+the second floor, opening upon a gallery and overlooking a large court.
+Here at last, so we thought, was a haven of refuge from jewelry
+intruders, but, alas! we were no sooner located than they appeared,--not
+the impecunious class, but dealers with shops and a bank
+account,--bringing with them a vast array of really beautiful gems,
+which were tempting but high-priced. To say that, on an average, three
+of these men knocked at our door during the morning bath, while as many
+were waiting for us at the luncheon hour, literally camping out on the
+balcony during the evening hours, is no exaggeration. Then the cards
+they presented, the insinuations they indulged in with regard to the
+other man's goods (who was waiting outside)! It really was amusing, but
+it grew tiresome, and was demoralizing, because one was compelled to
+"bargain" if anything was purchased at all, the first scale of prices
+being purposely exorbitant.
+
+A day's visit to old Delhi was most interesting; it is a ride of eleven
+miles to Kutub Minar, through sand and debris, comprising a portion of
+an area of forty-seven miles, covered with the remains of seven, once
+prosperous, cities. Several of the ruins were of interest, and they had
+a history, but I will describe only the well-preserved mausoleum of
+Emperor Humayun, which gains in importance from having been the model of
+the Taj Mahal at Agra. It stands on a lofty platform of red sandstone,
+and consists of a large central octagon, surmounted by a dome with
+octagon towers at the angles; the red sandstone exterior is artistically
+picked out in relief with white marble. The windows are recessed, and
+the lower doors are filled with beautiful lattices of stone and marble.
+In the centre of each side of the main octagon is a porch, forty feet
+high, with a pronounced pointed arch. The cenotaph of the Emperor is of
+white marble, without any inscription; his wife and several other
+persons, including two later Emperors, are buried here also. As was
+quite the custom of the time, the tomb is surrounded by a garden of
+thirteen acres. Farther on, was the Tomb of a Saint, a perfect gem! It
+is built of white marble, is eighteen feet square, and is surrounded by
+a broad veranda. Around the covered grave there is a low marble rail,
+and over it a beautiful canopy, inlaid with mother-of-pearl; in the
+walls are finely pierced screens. Near this tomb is a handsome red
+sandstone mosque, called Jumat Khana, and in the vicinity are a number
+of other important tombs of artistic design, two having elaborately
+carved marble doors, the design being like lacework.
+
+The culmination of the morning's trip was at the Kutub Minar enclosure;
+the magnificent ruined Mosque of Kuwat-ul-Islam occupies a large portion
+of the space, and dates from the latter part of the twelfth century. The
+main entrance was through an arched doorway, the courtyard was
+surrounded by cloisters formed of pillars purloined from Jain temples
+and piled one upon another. Most of them are richly ornamented, although
+many have been defaced.
+
+[Illustration: _The tomb of Emperor Humayun_]
+
+The famous Hindu Iron Pillar stands in front of the ruin; it is one of
+the most unique antiquities in India, and is a solid shaft of wrought
+iron, twenty-three feet, eight inches high and sixteen inches in
+diameter; it has a deeply cut Sanskrit inscription, and is so individual
+in its character as to prove a distinct reminder of a decayed past.
+
+The most prominent feature of the landscape is Kutub Minar, rightly
+named the Tower of Victory. Some have thought it of Hindu origin, but
+the now accepted opinion is that it was built by the Moguls, after the
+conquest. It is two hundred and thirty-eight feet high, and has five
+stories with balconies, each story being decorated with bands of
+inscriptions. The first three stories are of red sandstone and are
+fluted; the two upper stories are of white marble and have been
+restored. The diameter of the first story is forty-seven feet, three
+inches; that of the upper story, nine feet; three hundred and
+seventy-nine steps lead to the summit, and ninety-five steps lead to the
+first gallery, from both points of which we obtained a fine view of
+ruins in every direction.
+
+Tughlakabad lies five miles east of Kutub Minar; the fort is so high and
+massive as to be seen long before the point is reached. The enclosure
+covers nearly four miles and contains a ruined mosque and palace.
+Outside the wall is the tomb of Tujlak Shah; it is situated in an
+artificial lake, and is connected with the fort by a causeway, six
+hundred feet long and supported on twenty-seven arches.
+
+Of this tomb Mr. Ferguson says: "The sloping walls and almost Egyptian
+solidity of this mausoleum, combined with the bold and massive towers of
+the fortifications that surround it, form a picture of a warrior's tomb
+unrivalled anywhere."
+
+The day's experience included luncheon at a "rest house" near Kutub
+Minar; this term applies to a simple semi-hotel, provided by the
+Government for the convenience of members of the military and civil
+service and their families; it is situated in places where there are no
+hotel facilities, and, when unoccupied, the public may share in the
+convenience.
+
+The long, intensely dusty ride to Delhi,[2] past ruin after ruin, gave
+us leisure to reflect on the ravages of time and the mutability of all
+earthly things.
+
+[Illustration: _Northern colonnade of the Islam mosque, showing ruined
+arch_]
+
+Another afternoon drive about Delhi revealed new points of interest,
+including some which are associated with the mutiny, such as the Ridge
+where the British troops were stationed and from which a fine view is
+afforded; Flagstaff Tower, where the women and children were assembled
+on May 11, 1857; and the very inadequate Mutiny Memorial Monument,
+erected to commemorate the heroic deeds of the officers and soldiers who
+fell during the summer of 1857.
+
+But the scene that will linger longest in my memory is the panorama of
+the massive walls, towers, gateways, and the half-ruined palace. Then,
+one can hardly forget the Pearl Mosque, which is of such rare beauty as
+to prove a fitting memorial to the "Great Builder," Shah Jahan; the
+latter has a prototype in modern times,--none other than Ludwig II of
+Bavaria, whose palaces also linger in the memory as a dream of beauty.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+AGRA, _December 18th_: No one can visit Delhi and Agra without being
+impressed by the rulers of the golden period of the Mogul Empire, the
+great Akbar standing forth prominently as a wise potentate and the
+strongest personality in Indian history, certainly in Central India. His
+son, Jahangir, was not his equal, but his mantle of power seems to have
+descended to his grandson, Shah Jahan, who, like him, was famed in the
+matter of building, as we have seen at Delhi, and furthermore were to
+see at Agra, our next point of observation. We arrived on the afternoon
+of December 18th and proceeded to the Hôtel Metropole.
+
+As the train approached the city, we caught a glimpse of that
+incomparable creation, the Taj Mahal, and were immediately under its
+spell, so we at once took carriages and were conveyed there. As we drew
+near, the massive, finely proportioned gateway burst upon us. The
+entrance is of red sandstone, with Moorish arches and pavilions, while a
+wall of masonry, with turreted corners, encircles the grounds. At the
+centre of the two adjacent sides are gateways of similar construction to
+the entrance. One is, however, unprepared for the white-domed vision
+beyond, which at once inspired admiration and awe. The first view was at
+sunset, and the atmosphere was filled with a golden haze that rested
+lovingly on the graceful turrets and dome. We lingered on to catch the
+moonlight effect, and as the twilight faded and the outlines became
+shadowy, there was a peculiar illusion, which was heightened by the
+first glimmering silvery light, soon to be succeeded by a full radiance
+which illumined the white marble pile and the whole environment. We sat
+spellbound amidst the loveliness of the scene; no one spoke, and this
+silent tribute of respect was shared by other "lookers on."
+
+[Illustration: _Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi_]
+
+Our last visit was in the full effulgence of the morning, when we were
+able to obtain new points of view, and to visit the adjacent red
+sandstone mosque, as well as the corresponding opposite edifice (which
+is an audience room). Some of the party crossed the river Jumna, which
+runs back of the grounds, so as to see the reflection of the Taj in the
+water. No words of mine can fitly describe the impression, but figures
+sometimes aid the imagination. The foundation is three hundred and
+thirteen feet square and eighteen feet in height, and the edifice itself
+is one hundred and eighty-six feet square, with a dome rising to the
+height of two hundred and twenty feet. At each corner of the foundation
+stands a tall, graceful minaret, one hundred and thirty-seven feet in
+height. Add to this the statement that it took twenty thousand men
+seventeen years to complete the work, at a cost variously estimated at
+from $17,000,000 to $20,000,000, and you may form an idea of the
+delicate workmanship and artistic skill which the Taj represents. But
+simplicity is, after all, the keynote, and there is also a rare
+personality in its outlines reflecting feminine grace. This is
+distinctly felt when viewing the cenotaph (the real tomb is in a crypt
+below), which is, like the entire edifice, built of the whitest of
+marble and decorated with rare, beautiful designs, while the screen
+which encloses the cenotaph of the Queen is also of marble, carved in a
+lacework design of exquisite beauty.
+
+The diamonds, pearls, rubies, and other precious stones which once
+embellished this and every other part of the edifice, were taken away by
+ruthless invaders of India; and their places filled by colored stones
+with little loss of effect. Shah Jahan's cenotaph lies unenclosed at the
+left, showing that it was not included in the original plan. Indeed, it
+had been the intention of Shah Jahan to build for himself a mausoleum,
+of corresponding style, yet of dark marble, across the river Jumna; the
+shadow which rested on his later life prevented the idea from being
+carried out. But the creation of this tribute to all womanhood typified
+in his beloved wife is a monument which time cannot efface. Arjamand
+Banu Begum was a Persian princess of rare beauty and of great personal
+charm. She died in giving birth to her eighth child, and through all the
+years had held the supreme place in Shah Jahan's life; despite the
+Oriental custom of having other wives, she had won for herself the title
+of Mumtaz-i-Mahal, "The exalted of the Palace." Hence the Eastern habit
+of placing a mausoleum in a garden was peculiarly fitting for so
+peerless a queen; in this instance it forms a perfect setting for the
+Taj.
+
+[Illustration: _Gateway leading to Taj Mahal_]
+
+[Illustration: _Taj Mahal_]
+
+[Illustration: _Screen in Taj Mahal_]
+
+[Illustration: _Shah Jahan and his wife in whose memory the Taj was
+built_]
+
+The garden was redeemed from a hopeless tangle (into which it had
+fallen), under the direction of Lord Curzon, who did so much to stay
+ruin and devastation. It is laid out in a conventional style, one square
+being devoted to roses, another to poinsettia, while long stretches of
+foliage plants here and there, with a mass of dark green cypress trees,
+give it a breadth of view that is enhanced by a marble avenue, leading
+from the entrance to the tombs, the sweep of avenue being broken midway
+by a marble seat from which a fine view of the Taj is afforded. Running
+parallel were marble aqueducts which contained, at set intervals,
+playing fountains; these were inactive, however, at the time of our
+visits. One could return to the Taj day after day, as the subtle
+influence of its beauty and its spiritual significance are ever present.
+Sad indeed was the fate of the builder, Shah Jahan, who ruled from 1620
+to 1658 and who was then deposed by his son, Aurangzeb. The latter
+transferred the capital to Delhi, causing his father to languish seven
+long years in a small suite of rooms in the palace at Agra as a
+prisoner, his only companion a devoted daughter.
+
+While the centre of attraction in Agra is the Taj Mahal, the fort,
+palace, and Moti Musjid (Pearl Mosque) are of equal interest. Here we
+see the impress of three rulers, Akbar (the grandson of the noted Mogul
+king, Baber, and son of Humayun, both of whom lived at Agra), Jahangir,
+his son, and Shah Jahan, his grandson.
+
+Akbar removed to Agra, from the old capital Fatehpur-Sikri, about 1568,
+but the only monuments that are now attributed to him are the massive
+walls of the fort and the red palace. Jahangir built the palace which
+bears his name, but as it is somewhat gloomy in appearance, his chief
+claims to distinction as a builder are the tombs of Itimid-ud-Daulah and
+Akbar's tomb at Sikandra. Shah Jahan built the palace which contains the
+beautiful Diwan-i-Am, or Hall of Public Audience; the Diwan-i-Khas, or
+Hall of Private Audience; the Shish Mahal, or Mirror Palace; the
+Saman-Burj, known as the Octagon, or Jasmine Tower; the Mina Musjid, or
+Gem Palace (the private mosque of the Emperor); with many other notable
+edifices. The Moti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque, is furnished with a superb
+exterior setting.
+
+Having described similar halls in the palace at Delhi, I will only
+briefly enumerate some distinguishing features of each of the buildings
+just mentioned. All were either injured or defaced in the mutiny
+conflict of 1857, which raged in Agra from May 10th to October 10th, six
+thousand women and children, with a few men, having found a refuge there
+during the siege. A feature of the Public Audience Room is a grille in
+the back wall, through which the Sultanas or members of the Zenana could
+watch the proceedings below; and in the centre of the hall is a
+raised alcove of white marble, richly decorated in low relief.
+
+[Illustration: _Agra Palace and part of wall and gateway to the fort_]
+
+[Illustration: _An Octagon Tower of the Agra Palace_]
+
+The Hall of Private Audience consists of an open colonnade in front of
+an enclosed room at the back. The illustration shows the front
+overlooking the court, while beyond is the Octagon Tower, the residence
+of the chief Sultana. In the court a portion of the marble pavement is
+made to represent a pachisi or chess board, and it is said the game was
+played with slave girls, who were used instead of the customary
+chessmen. The Octagon Tower is built out over the river Jumna, as will
+be seen in a later picture.
+
+The portion known as the Mirror Palace is unique, as it consists of two
+dark rooms furnished with fountains and an artificial cascade arranged
+to fall over lighted lamps. The walls and ceilings are decorated with
+innumerable small mirrors which were restored in 1875. The palace
+measures seventy by forty feet, and is built at the east end of a garden
+two hundred and fifty feet square, planted with flowers and shrubs.
+Underneath the structure are subterranean apartments for use during the
+summer heat, and from here passages lead to still cooler rooms in
+another portion of the fort.
+
+In the southeast corner of this Anguri Bagh, or garden, are three finely
+decorated rooms which were once the private apartments of Shah Jahan.
+The Jahangir Mahal, or palace, is noticeable on account of the bright
+red tiles used in the upper portion. It also has a fine domed hall which
+leads into a large central court.
+
+But the crowning single feature in this fort (which is over a mile in
+extent) is the Moti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque. Mr. Ferguson considers it
+to be "one of the purest and most elegant buildings of its class to be
+found in the world." It ranks next to the Taj Mahal among Shah Jahan's
+creations. The entrance gateway is of red sandstone and is approached by
+a lofty double staircase. The exterior is faced with slabs of red
+sandstone, but the interior is built of marble, white, blue, and gray
+veined. The courtyard of the mosque is deservedly celebrated. In the
+centre is a marble tank for ablutions, and a marble cloister runs around
+three of its sides. A flight of steps leads to the roof of the mosque,
+from which a fine view is obtained.[3]
+
+[Illustration: _The Pearl Mosque_]
+
+[Illustration: _Akbar's tomb in Sikandra_]
+
+A pleasant excursion across the river led us to the tasteful tomb of
+Itimid-ud-Daulah. The entrance gate is fine, and the approach through
+spacious, well-kept grounds gives one a wide perspective. The façade is
+of marble with considerable inlaid work. Itimid-ud-Daulah was a Persian
+High Treasurer, and the grandfather of the Lady of the Taj. The tomb was
+built by Shah Jahangir, as was that of King Akbar at Sikandra, five
+miles distant from Agra and a delightful excursion to make. It has an
+imposing gateway and is situated in the midst of a veritable park. It is
+of red sandstone, inlaid with white marble, and is a pyramidal building,
+four stories high, the first three being of red sandstone and the fourth
+of marble. The base measures three hundred and twenty feet, and the
+fourth story one hundred and fifty-seven feet (narrow stairways leading
+upward), which indicates a gradual decrease and tapering in size. A
+massive cloister runs around the lower story, and the fourth story is
+occupied by the marble cenotaph of Akbar, directly over the crypt which
+contains his tomb. The cenotaph is engraved with ninety-nine names of
+the deity. This story is surrounded by a white marble cloister, and on
+the outer side of each arch is an oval-shaped recess, filled with
+delicate lacework carving of varied patterns in marble. The effect is
+unlike anything elsewhere seen. There are several other historic tombs
+in the vicinity, and many points of interest all the way to Akbar's old
+capital, Fatehpur-Sikri. This is twenty-two miles distant, a day's
+excursion, and easily reached in automobiles; although it took some
+faith to trust one's self to the rather indifferent chauffeurs.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FATEHPUR-SIKRI: This royal but long-destroyed city is sacred to the
+memory of the Emperor Akbar, who built a gorgeous structure and selected
+the site through the advice of the renowned Saint Selim Chisti. He
+eventually abandoned it on account of its unhealthy location, and
+transferred the capital to Agra, where, as we have seen, he built a fort
+and the red palace. There is an unusually imposing gateway on one side
+of Fatehpur-Sikri, leading up to the mosque, but we made our entrance
+from the adjacent side; hence our first view was like that in the
+illustration. A large, five-story building to the left served as a
+recreation place for the ladies of the court, while back and to the left
+of this was seen the beautiful dome of the mosque, said to be almost a
+counterpart of the one at Mecca. So many and varied are the buildings in
+this fort that it is inexpedient to do more than allude briefly to them.
+
+The three palaces of the Sultanas are notable for their beauty, variety,
+and wealth of ornament, the Sultanas being Miriam, the Portuguese
+Christian; Rakinah, Akbar's cousin; and the Turkish Sultana. The Emperor
+also has a suite of several rooms. The palace of Birbal, Akbar's prime
+minister, is, architecturally, the most perfect of any in the enclosure
+and was built for his daughter. The rooms allotted to the Zenana are
+spacious. Near the recreation building is the famous pachisi or chess
+board, similar to the one at Agra, where Akbar and his vizier, sitting
+opposite, marshalled the slave girls to and fro.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Fatehpur-Sikri_]
+
+The plan of the mosque is unusual in its construction, and so is the
+massive gateway. Passing through the latter, an exquisite monument
+presents itself in the tomb of Selim Chisti, the venerable hermit saint,
+who lived a retired existence in a cave and yet who was the controlling
+force in Akbar's life. The place is simple, and displays such delicacy
+of skill in its composition as to excite admiration. It is surrounded by
+a beautiful white marble lattice-work screen, ornamented with brass, and
+the canopy over the tomb of the saint is inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
+The photograph is very effective, but, like many others, it has to be
+omitted (I have five hundred scenes of the tour). The public audience
+room is encompassed by cloisters. There is a treasury, a mint, a record
+office, and a building with three large rooms known as the Minchauli
+Anch, which is said to be the place where the Emperor played
+hide-and-seek with the ladies of the court; this is probably an
+erroneous statement.
+
+The most unusual building is the Diwan-i-Khas, the council chamber. From
+the outside it seems to be two stories high, yet there is really but one
+story with a large central pillar which is surrounded by an immense
+circular capital. From this radiates four stone causeways to the
+corners of the room; these are enclosed by an open trellis with stone
+balustrades. The shaft of the pillar is finely carved, and all is in
+perfect condition, due to careful restoration. It is said that the
+Emperor sat in the centre of the pillar when he held a council, while
+the four advisers sat in the corners. Stone staircases lead to the roof,
+where a glimpse of the whole enclosure is afforded. A novel view is
+obtained down a stone-paved roadway, leading to a large court, at the
+north end of which is the deer minaret, or circular tower, seventy feet
+high, decorated with protruding elephants' tusks in stone. From the
+lanterns at the top, the Emperor is said to have shot antelopes drawn
+under the column by beaters employed for that special purpose.
+
+Reading between the lines, one learns that Akbar was a very peculiar
+character, domineering and despotic, yet generous to the immediate
+members of his household and to his favorite courtiers,--he was very
+cruel, however, when they displeased him; very broad in his religious
+views; and although a devoted Mohammedan, he was tolerant of all
+religions, and there are accounts of religious discussions taking place,
+in which every shade of belief was represented. He decreed that his
+daughters should all marry Hindu princes.
+
+[Illustration: _A column in the Audience Hall (Diwan-i-Khas)_]
+
+Our guide told us that formerly there were underground passages and
+apartments, but he did not state, as did another guide to a party of
+tourists at Agra, that these apartments were for the disciplining and
+torturing of the members of the Zenana and even of his wives. Taking
+into consideration the attention he gave to the comfort and pleasure of
+the ladies of the court, as seen in the palaces and the large recreation
+building extant, this statement appears inconsistent, and so it is
+necessary to give him the benefit of the doubt. The "auto" ride back to
+Agra was accomplished without any broken limbs, and another red-letter
+day was ended.
+
+Before leaving Agra one should either visit the Taj Mahal for a final
+look, or, from the Jasmine Tower of the palace, gaze through the
+intervening two miles of space to catch its shadowy outline as seen by
+Shah Jahan during those seven solitary years of vigil. I chose the
+latter method for convenience' sake, after visiting the bazars, and in
+consequence was rewarded with a never-to-be-forgotten view.
+
+Delhi and Agra are indissolubly connected by their rulers and by
+historical events; in leaving them one feels as if never again would so
+much of unique interest be presented in the line of architectural skill
+and poetic sentiment.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CAWNPORE, _December 24th_: We took a night train from Agra to Cawnpore,
+arriving there early on the morning of December 24th and stopping over
+a few hours to break the journey. Cawnpore is full of mutiny memories,
+and we visited some of the historic points, going first to the Ghat
+(steps) where cruel Nana Sahib burned, or murdered, a boatload of
+Englishmen; also to other scenes of horror. Then we went to the memorial
+well, and to the memorial church with its peaceful interior, which was
+being decorated with greens in true English fashion, for the service of
+the morrow, when "Peace and good will to men" would ring out, and for
+the time being mutiny memories would be forgotten. We drove to the park,
+where, as an accessory to a certain artistic building, there is to be
+seen an exquisite angel of carved marble, a memorial erected by the
+Government. Next, we visited some bazars of no special interest.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+LUCKNOW, _December 24th_: After luncheon, we took the train for Lucknow.
+On the way, Murray's "Lucknow" was re-read, and another mutiny chapter
+added. Lucknow is the capital of the province of Oudh. In 1813 the
+English conferred the title of king on the ruler, but, for reasons of
+distrust, withdrew it in 1856, and at the same time discharged eighty
+thousand high-caste soldiers,--an action which produced instant
+dissatisfaction and was one of the direct causes for the mutiny. We
+arrived at Wutzler's Royal Hotel in the late afternoon, and felt
+gladdened by the comfort and good cheer that awaited us,--a hopeful sign
+inasmuch as the morrow was Christmas Day. A drive to Wingfield Park and
+a visit to an exquisite tomb mosque ended the sight-seeing day.
+
+[Illustration: _Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj_]
+
+[Illustration: _The ghat at Cawnpore_]
+
+Christmas without the usual morning service seemed peculiar, but the law
+of the majority in our party prevailed, and we drove instead to the Fort
+and Residency, the centre of interest since 1857. The awe and solemnity
+inspired by that visit, with the Christmas bells ever and anon breaking
+the silence, can never be forgotten. The Residency is situated in the
+centre of a large park which was the scene of a siege lasting from July
+1 to November 17, 1857, three thousand men, women, and children, besides
+the military, being there for safety. The number of refugees was reduced
+to one thousand by September; the large rooms on the ground floor of the
+Government building, with two stories above and extensive subterranean
+rooms, made their stay possible, but involved great suffering and
+horrible death as the siege went on. The large banquet hall of the
+Residency near by was converted into a hospital. Both buildings are now
+in ruins. But the roofless Residency with a tangle of vines (and a
+decrepit stairway that leads upward) furnishes a fine view of the whole
+scene, which in its very quietness bespeaks bravery, endurance, and
+heroic suffering.
+
+The buildings of Lucknow are not important, with the exception of the
+Jumma Musjid, the great Imambara with its fine gateway, court, and
+arcades. The Imambara Mosque has two minarets, and the great Imambara
+Hall, one hundred and sixty-three by fifty-three feet and forty-nine
+feet high, is one of the largest vaulted galleries in the world. The
+palaces of the late king of Oudh, the clock tower and other mosques and
+tombs, were visited, for, as usual, the persistent guide insisted on our
+seeing all the "sights" (exaggerating the descriptions, it always
+seemed, in proportion to their lack of importance), and it was "Memsahib
+this" and "Memsahib that." Christmas Day, with a June temperature, soon
+came to a close; the dinner was somewhat English in its many
+appointments, with its roast beef and plum pudding,--other home touches
+being added by our ever-thoughtful Director. There was good cheer, but
+we silently thought of home and the friends far away.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _The Residency at Lucknow_]
+
+BENARES, _December 26th_: Benares is the sacred city of India, and the
+river Ganges with the ghats is the point where thousands upon thousands
+of worshippers congregate, coming from every point where Hinduism
+prevails. We had anticipated revolting scenes, and were not
+disappointed, as the superstition of the devotees, the grasping conduct
+of the priests, and the disgusting practices in the name of so-termed
+religion all contributed to that end. We arrived during the afternoon of
+December 26th, going to the Hôtel de Paris. A drive was instantly
+proposed, and we were taken to the Maharaja's palace, with grounds laid
+out conventionally, the trees and shrubs representing peacocks and
+animals of different kinds. The palace was spacious but tawdrily
+furnished; it is noteworthy as being the home to which the Maharaja and
+his family repair whenever they feel the approach of death; there is a
+superstition among the Hindus that death must occur on the north bank of
+the sacred river Ganges, in order to become a monkey after death
+(monkeys are considered sacred); for if the demise occurs on the
+opposite side of the Ganges, one would surely become a donkey.
+
+We next turned toward the celebrated Monkey Temple, a pretentious but
+inartistic structure of red sandstone, presided over by the monster wife
+of Siva, the Goddess Kali, who is seated on an interior shrine and
+almost terrifies the beholder by her demoniacal smile, her neck being
+wreathed with skulls. The Goddess of Blood demands a daily sacrifice,
+usually a goat and sometimes even a buffalo. At least twenty
+terrible-looking priests were in attendance upon her when we arrived and
+were ready to slay the inoffensive goat if money was forthcoming. We,
+however, declined to witness such a spectacle. Monkeys, disgustingly old
+and fat, were everywhere, and filled large trees surrounding the temple,
+two hundred at least being visible. Beggars, mendicants, and priests
+were abundantly in evidence.
+
+In an attempt to throw some small coins to some children, I was nearly
+crushed, the crowd closing around me and separating me from my party,
+until a tall Brahman priest with a huge stick checked the mob and I
+escaped, to be admonished by the Director of the party, who declared
+that I must never repeat the experiment, however much my sympathies
+might be drawn upon by the scenes that impressed me.
+
+[Illustration: _Bathing ghat, Benares_]
+
+[Illustration: _Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur_]
+
+The following morning we proceeded at 7 A.M. to the scene of all others
+in Benares, the bathing ghats. These are steps leading down from the
+plateau to the river on the banks of the Ganges and extending a distance
+of nearly three miles. Seated in a native small boat, we sailed
+leisurely up and down for hours, watching the unusual spectacle. The
+Brahman priests were everywhere (there being thirty thousand in Benares
+who live on the offerings of the pilgrims), some seated under
+umbrella-like canopies, some under tents, others bathing, and others
+performing certain sacred offices for the devotees who had come hither
+in state, on elephants or camels, by train or on foot, all intent on
+securing an increase of religious zeal. The crowds bathing in the sacred
+river are a continuous spectacle. There are piers built out into the
+stream for convenience, filled with pilgrims of every hue and variety of
+dress and undress, some simply wearing the loin cloth, which startled us
+at first, but now seemed the legitimate outcome of a lean purse and a
+hot climate.
+
+In addition, there is a continuous refrain of voices in solemn
+supplication to one or more of the many thousands of Hindu gods, for it
+has been stated that there are two hundred thousand divinities in India.
+At one point there is a burning ghat, and one morning we witnessed the
+preparation for two cremations, one of a poor man and the other of the
+wife of a Maharaja. The two ceremonies differed little, except that the
+wood for the funeral pile of one cost a mere pittance, while the
+sandalwood for the latter cost six hundred rupees. The corpse is carried
+on a small litter, or bier, made of bamboo sticks (a man is robed in
+white and a woman in red), and deposited in the Ganges, feet foremost;
+care is taken that the whole body be immersed in order that purification
+may be complete. The relatives arrange the pile of wood, about eight
+logs being required. Then the body is transferred to the pyre, and the
+torch is applied by one of the family, the others sitting solemnly
+around in a circle. When consumed, the ashes are scattered in the river
+Ganges. It is a gruesome spectacle, however much it may be in the
+interest of sanitary science; but less so to me, who had witnessed the
+distribution of the bodies at the Towers of Silence in Bombay.
+
+It will be seen that the principal commodity in Benares is holiness; but
+there is one creditable industry, namely, the manufacture of brass.
+Several shops were visited, but we liked the modern styles less than the
+old Benares brass with which we were familiar.
+
+One thought was uppermost while in Benares; I had pondered over it
+before in our visit to India. It was that with the masses Hinduism
+to-day means superstition and idolatry, in spite of the fact that the
+earlier teaching was of a pure character. That the cultivated Hindus
+accept the practices and the priesthood is a mystery as subtle as the
+law of caste or the iron law of custom. It is a depressing thought, and
+causes a profound feeling of thankfulness that Providence placed us in a
+fairer land.
+
+[Illustration: _The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares_]
+
+The missionary effort of England, America, and other countries has for
+years been directed toward changing the condition of the masses, but the
+law of caste is such that, to use a set phrase, if a man become a
+Christian, he is ostracized, even by the members of his own family,
+unless they too follow his example. He is also ostracized as regards any
+business he may follow, and the sacrifice he is forced to undergo seems
+almost too great for human endurance. Still, according to missionary
+reports, this sacrifice is frequently made, which is equivalent to true
+heroism. Naturally, the progress of proselyting is slower in India than
+in any other country of the Orient, but it is the consensus of opinion
+that a greater extension of hospitals in charge of so-termed
+missionaries and a greater extension of schools for the young are the
+leaven that will work satisfactory results in the future. Another
+reassuring sign is the establishment of the Central Hindu College at
+Benares by Mrs. A.B. Besant, the Theosophist. This is intended to
+elevate the Hindu youth, combining religious and moral education with
+mental and athletic development. We saw only the exterior of the
+building.
+
+Four miles from Benares, at the site of the old Benares, called Sarnath,
+is a most interesting ancient monument known as the Tope of Sarnath. It
+is the best preserved of any in Bengal. It was erected in Deer Park to
+mark the spot sanctified by the presence of Buddha. It was explored in
+1835 and found to be a stupa; but containing no relics, it was evidently
+intended to indicate the spot where Buddha first assumed his mission as
+a teacher. The tope consists of a stone basement ninety-three feet in
+diameter and solidly built of stone. Above the stone is brickwork rising
+to a height of one hundred and twenty feet from the plain. The lower
+story has niches evidently intended for a figure of Buddha, and below
+this is a band of sculptured ornaments of great beauty; it is thought
+from the evidences of ornamentation that in date it corresponds to the
+best period of Delhi. There is an interesting temple in the vicinity,
+and there formerly was a large Buddhist monastery. One also finds acres
+of mounds and debris indicating a large Buddhist foundation in the days
+when Buddha reigned supreme.
+
+We left Benares for Darjeeling the evening of December 27th, and the
+prospect of a glimpse of mountain scenery in the famed Himalaya
+foothills, eight thousand feet above the sea, was exhilarating after the
+depressing scenes behind us.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SILIGURI, _December 28th_: We arrived at Siliguri early the following
+morning, December 28th, and were at once transferred to the Darjeeling
+and Himalayan Railway (two-foot gauge with open cars), a triumph of
+engineering skill on account of the sudden and wonderful curves which
+continue from the beginning to the end and cause the famous Horseshoe
+Curve of the Pennsylvania Railway to sink into insignificance. The
+ride was exciting, as every bend revealed something new and startling.
+Leaving the plain of Bengal behind us, which is a feature of interest,
+we commenced the ascent; first through a jungle of cane and grass, both
+very high, where tigers, leopards, bears, deer, and the like have their
+home; and next through a forest with few familiar trees save the giant
+oak. Higher up the graceful bamboo is seen, and still higher fruit trees
+are plentiful; then small tea plantations appear, and a more peaceful
+landscape. Another bold curve and the glorious snow-capped Kanchanjanga
+range is in full view,--a perfect panorama, the atmosphere being clear
+and the sky almost cloudless. It was one of the supreme moments of life.
+We were now nearing Darjeeling, having made a gradual descent during the
+last half-hour.
+
+[Illustration: _A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DARJEELING, _December 28th_: The Woodlands Hotel, picturesquely situated
+on the side of a lesser mountain, became our abiding-place for all too
+short a time. Darjeeling is beautifully located upon a ridge, seven
+thousand feet above water level. The mountain side is picturesque with
+its sprinkling of villas and bungalows, tall mountains towering up as a
+background. The average temperature is eighty degrees in summer and
+thirty in winter; hence it is a favorite resort. There is a sanitarium
+here, called "The Eden." The mountain views prove a great attraction;
+the Kanchanjanga range is seen beyond the intervening mountains, with a
+vast chasm in the foreground.
+
+The Mall is the principal promenade, and winds around Observatory Hill,
+from which fine glimpses of the country are to be obtained. In the
+vicinity is St. Andrew's Church, with interesting tablets, and near by
+the summer residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal.
+
+We were admonished to hurry our luncheon in order not to lose the
+opportunity of seeing the celebrated bazar of which we had heard so
+much, even in Bombay. I do not refer to the regular street bazar, but to
+a bazar at which crowds of peasants from different provinces congregate
+once a week for the sale of silver and turquoise jewelry, which is
+mostly exhibited on their persons, supplemented by a small bundle which
+is carried; but the transactions are very primitive and unlike those at
+any other bazar. Then there are the quaint things they wear,--artistic
+chatelaines with articles generally suspended and thrown over the
+shoulder, instead of worn around the waist, immense earrings,
+finger-rings, bracelets, and anklets; also large round silver pins for
+the hair, suspended between two long ornaments resembling an elongated
+corkscrew--all linked together with a narrow black ribbon tied in a
+bow. The wearing of this latter head ornament was very grotesque, and I
+bought one taken from the hair of a peasant, besides purchasing some
+other articles which now serve as a reminder of the quaint scene. The
+dress of the men, women, and children was peculiar, and varied according
+to their province, such as Bhutias, Tibetans, Nepalese, Pelaris,
+Ghorkas, and others.
+
+[Illustration: _A Nepaulese group_]
+
+Their shrewd faces were illuminated with smiles as they realized the
+success of a bargain which was doubtless far in excess of the value of
+the article purchased; or failing of a bargain their persistent attempts
+to secure one were amusing. As we walked around through the motley
+crowd, powerless to express ourselves except in the universal language
+of pantomime, with mountains all around us and the Kanchanjanga still in
+view, we felt as though we were a part of a play, it seemed so unreal.
+Later we visited the street bazars, all of them furnished with articles
+claimed to be antique. In the evening the proprietor of the hotel gave
+us an interesting description of scenes in Tibet, illustrated with
+lantern views.
+
+The cold of late December now became intense, and it required some
+courage to be called at three o'clock in the morning for an expedition
+to Tiger Hill to see the sun rise. A half-hour after, nevertheless, saw
+our departure, and you would have smiled at the spectacle I presented,
+seated in a chair with six bearers (two for a relay), rugs and cushions
+piled around me, the crowning feature being a red blanket which, at the
+last moment, one of the bearers draped around my shoulders. It was
+moonlight when we left the valley. The view of each mountain and gorge
+was marvellous, so unlike daylight, as the moon ever throws elusive
+shadows about all things it touches. Before we reached our destination,
+the first streak of dawn was faintly outlined against the horizon, as if
+heralding the approach of some great spectacle, which soon came in
+shades of gold and pink; then bursting forth like a great ball of fire
+which illuminated the whole scene, even the distant Kanchanjanga range
+being suffused with a pinkish glow. We held our breath and were
+thankful, for the guide had told us that a perfect sunrise was a rare
+occurrence. Mount Everest, 29,002 feet high, eighty miles distant, and
+the highest peak in the world, as usual was but dimly seen. After the
+excitement of the morning, the hot coffee and rolls which were provided
+for us proved most acceptable. We lingered on for a half-hour, amused
+that even above the clouds human nature is the same, as every bearer
+produced rings or other trinkets for our inspection and possible
+purchase. The descent was made in the blinding sunlight, and indeed it
+was so warm that we laid aside our blankets, and we noted the different
+aspects which all Nature wore.
+
+A nine-o'clock breakfast followed, and we were ready for other
+experiences. The descent to Siliguri was not unlike the ascent, with the
+view reversed. A night train conveyed us to Sara Ghat, where we arrived
+early in the morning and were taken across the river Ganges to
+Dumonkdeah, where we took a train for Calcutta, one hundred and sixteen
+miles distant.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CALCUTTA, _December 31st_: There is, in a certain sense, a link between
+Benares and Calcutta; the latter is situated on the Hooghly River, which
+is an outlet of the river Ganges, but no resemblance exists between
+India's modern winter capital and the city of superstition. We arrived
+in Calcutta on December 31st, and repaired to the Strand Hotel. An
+afternoon drive to Eden Park proved delightful, and on every side we saw
+attractive surroundings.
+
+January 1st dawned brightly, and found us at 7 A.M. driving to the fine
+esplanade, called "The Maidan," and extending two miles. We were on our
+way to witness the great annual military review by the Viceroy, now Lord
+Minto. Presentation Day is the term here applied to New Year's Day. It
+was a gala occasion indeed, and the equipages of the rich, and the
+smaller vehicles of all descriptions, encircled the barrier that
+intervened between the spectators and those who were to furnish the
+display. There were also hundreds on foot, some of them in the brilliant
+native dress of various colors, with their many-hued turbans. This was
+specially noticeable in the livery of many of the native carriages,
+where gold trimmings were profuse, and the same scheme was carried out
+in the dress of the two coachmen and two footmen, the latter being
+called _syces_. The militia presented a splendid appearance, and the
+infantry marched with the greatest precision, but the cavalry, as usual,
+carried off the honors as regards spectacular display, particularly the
+native cavalry with their picturesque dress. Lord Minto and his aides
+were elegantly decked in their accoutrements and elicited much cheering.
+
+We returned for a nine-thirty breakfast, and left afterwards for a
+sight-seeing expedition, having been warned not to expect much in this
+line at Calcutta. St. Paul's Cathedral--English--was interesting on
+account of the many memorials and statues, one of Bishop Heber having
+much merit. Fort William and the grounds of the Government House, the
+Dalhousie Club, the Black Hole, and other points were also visited.
+
+[Illustration: _The Government House in Calcutta_]
+
+The Black Hole is so often mentioned in connection with Calcutta that a
+few words of explanation seem necessary. It was at the time of the
+siege of Calcutta in 1756 a small room in the barracks, twenty-two by
+fourteen feet in size, and sixteen feet in height. One hundred human
+beings were crowded into it on the night of June 20th, and there were
+only twenty-three survivors in the morning. A memorial obelisk was
+erected by one of these survivors, and this was restored by order of
+Lord Curzon.
+
+The Imperial Museum is a very large building and has extensive
+geological and archæological departments. It also possesses a fine
+library.
+
+We omitted the burning ghat, remembering the one at Benares, but a Hindu
+temple revealed another repulsive goddess, Kali, and the sacrifice of
+the goat had just occurred. The river front has a ghat for bathing.
+
+A drive to the distant Botanical Gardens proved of much interest, and
+the largest banyan tree in the world was there displayed, having four
+hundred and sixty-four aerial branches and covering over an acre in
+extent; there were also long avenues of palms.
+
+Lacking the fine harbor of Bombay, Calcutta is still a city of great
+commercial importance and of many natural attractions and fine public
+buildings. It is, however, a place of decided contrasts, imposing
+streets of residences being not far distant from as wretched a native
+quarter as may be seen in any other Indian city. To the casual tourist
+Calcutta seems a large English city (eight hundred thousand
+inhabitants), especially so in the life on the Maidan, the centre of
+attraction and fashion. Eden Park is also greatly frequented, and the
+race-course is the finest in India; but, notwithstanding, Calcutta has
+not the charm of Bombay. The Strand Hotel gave us an elaborate menu for
+our New Year's dinner, which was supplemented by flowers and bonbons,
+and we all voted the occasion, even if in a foreign land, a success. And
+so I link Lucknow and Calcutta together in the holiday column of my
+memory.
+
+I have before alluded to the sad, dejected faces of the natives of North
+India; the Bengali seemed a trifle more melancholy, as is their
+reputation. We did not regret our departure, although it meant the loss
+of our faithful Indian guide, Dalle, and our travelling servant, Jusef,
+both with their long India bordered shawls artistically thrown over one
+shoulder, and their high white turbans rolled round and round the head,
+the finishing touch being a tall conical ornament that stood up in the
+centre. This is significant of their territorial province, styles of
+turbans varying with the locality. The early hour of 6 A.M. found us
+departing on the British and India line for a steamer trip of three
+days, Rangoon being our destination.
+
+[Illustration: _An avenue of palms in the Botanical Gardens_]
+
+The trip was restful, but afforded little variety, and we hailed our
+arrival at Rangoon with delight early on the morning of January 6th. By
+a late decision we concluded to go on at once to Mandalay and leave
+Rangoon to be visited on our return. Taking a train at noon, we were
+favored by journeying in _de luxe_ cars, sacred to the use of high
+officials, and so complete in equipment as to include bathroom,
+shower-bath, and other conveniences. The afternoon ride was through a
+fertile country, rice and bananas being the principal products. The rice
+crop had been garnered, and piles of bags were ready at every station
+for shipment to Rangoon (the amount shipped is two hundred thousand tons
+annually). Later we visited a field where rice was being harvested. It
+is not unlike wheat in the sheaf, but smaller. The country process after
+cutting is first to pound the rice, and then winnow it so as to remove
+the hull; this is done by throwing it in the air, by means of a round
+flat plate with a handle. Machinery is used in the cities.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BURMA: We were now far from the centre of things, in a remote corner of
+Southeastern Asia, hidden in the midst of mountains, which were for ages
+the safeguard against Indian invaders and the aggression of China.
+Proselyting Buddhists, however, found their way from India and brought
+civilization with them.
+
+There is a great diversity of races in Burma, various foreign tribes
+having come there and remained, making a mixed population. There are now
+about sixty thousand Palaings wearing the Chin dress. The Kachins, a
+warlike people, formerly made raids on the Burmans who lived on the
+border of China, the Chins dwelling among the hills. The Karens are
+numerically the strongest and live in the delta of the Irrawaddy. They
+had been an oppressed people, but achieved their liberty under British
+rule, and it is estimated that one hundred thousand abjured Buddhism and
+became Christians. The Chins are the oldest, having come from China two
+thousand years ago.
+
+Southern Burma was under British rule before the middle of the
+nineteenth century, but it is only since January, 1886, that England has
+controlled Northern Burma. King Thebaw's downfall was caused by his
+numerous cruel acts to foreigners, which compelled the British to take
+steps to check him. His headquarters were at Mandalay, and his deserted
+palace is the centre of attraction to-day. The most prominent feature is
+the fort, in and about which are grouped the palace of the King, the
+houses of Government officials and residents of the military quarter.
+
+[Illustration: _Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay_]
+
+[Illustration: _Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the
+Universe_]
+
+The palace was erected by Mindon Min, King Thebaw's father. It covers an
+immense area and is encompassed by a high wall of red brick, in which
+are twelve gates, each one surrounded by a conical cupola, with layers
+of upturned eaves after the peculiar fashion of the country; the same
+thing is characteristic of China.
+
+The fort is entirely surrounded by a moat, one hundred feet wide and
+twelve feet deep. Five bridges also lead from five of the gateways. The
+moat supplies drinking water for the city and is covered with the purple
+lotus blossom. Its width and extent make it a characteristic feature of
+Mandalay. Roads run parallel with the walls and lead to the entrance of
+the palace gardens, once very beautiful.
+
+The palace is a square of twenty or more buildings, built of teak,
+painted red, and covered originally with gold leaf. The roofs have
+layers of upturned eaves, and the buildings are richly decorated with
+colored ornamentation, while the worn gilding and faded reds are blended
+in the peculiar shading which time alone can give. There are many
+audience rooms, these usually furnished with elaborately decorated
+thrones, as is also the audience room in the beautiful adjacent palace
+of the Queen; her throne and the King's great throne in the principal
+audience room under the lofty cupola (called pyathat, and termed by the
+people the "Centre of the Universe") are especially imposing and rich in
+decoration. On either side of this audience chamber are large audience
+rooms; these were used for some time after the British occupation as a
+church for the soldiers, and the Queen's palace was turned into a
+resting place for the Upper Burma Club; now both the church and the club
+have appropriate edifices of their own. Between two of the principal
+rooms is a screen, utilized as a wall and panelled in glass, mosaic, and
+mirrors, which is very effective and reminds one of the glass room in
+the palace at Amber.
+
+From the high hill at Mandalay, one may gain an excellent general view
+of the many pagodas and monasteries in which the city abounds; for this
+is verily the land of the pagoda. The most beautiful of all, called the
+Incomparable, was destroyed by fire. One of great interest was built by
+Mindon Min, and called the Kuthodau, or, more generally, the 450
+Pagodas, but there are said to be seven hundred and twenty-nine cupolas
+surrounding the great central pagoda, each containing an alabaster slab
+upon which are engraved some texts of Buddha taken from the Pali Bible,
+the King thinking thus to perpetuate them,--the whole surrounded by a
+wall, in which are built two richly decorated gates.
+
+[Illustration: _The Arakan Pagoda_]
+
+[Illustration: _One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas_]
+
+Situated very near the so-termed 450 Pagodas is a group of attractive
+pagodas in carved wood and plaster of different designs. In the centre
+is an unfinished marble pagoda, called Kyauk Taw Gyi, which contains
+a huge attractive figure of Buddha, twenty-five feet high.
+
+On the same morning we visited the glass monastery which once on a time
+had been very imposing. Here we saw the Bishop and a number of novice
+priests receiving instruction, taking, I imagine, a kind of postgraduate
+course. All were most affable and seemed happy, as does every one in
+Burma. At this monastery two of our party were given copies of a portion
+of the Burmese Bible.
+
+Monasteries are also very prominent in Burma, and they are usually boys'
+schools, both for young and adult people.
+
+In the afternoon we visited the great Arakan Pagoda, a shrine which
+pilgrims of the Buddhist faith frequent from all over the world. It is
+built in the form of a square tower, rising in a series of terraces,
+growing smaller and ending in a finial at the summit. There are also
+battlements with finials capping the top. The whole is gilded and is
+very magnificent in appearance, even to the gilded figure of Buddha,
+which occupies the principal throne. The day we were there, the throne
+was surrounded by worshippers, and the long passages leading from the
+pagoda to it were densely thronged. There are four smaller passages,
+each being filled with stalls where is displayed almost every
+conceivable article, even to fruit and flowers. Near one of the
+passages are two large tanks filled with grayish water where are kept
+the sacred turtles. The turtles were fed while we were present and
+seemed very tame. In the adjacent enclosure we saw many large bells of
+graduated size, for which Burma is famous. In an enclosure young men
+were playing the game of football, called "Chinlon," in that country,
+which means "round basket," the ball being about six inches in diameter.
+The players stand in a circle a few feet apart. The ball is thrown by
+one, and the player nearest to whom it falls kicks it in the air, and
+attempts to repeat this feat several times in order to keep the ball up,
+but failing to do so, the next player gains possession and throws it,
+and so on.
+
+The visit to the Queen's Golden Monastery was peculiarly interesting. It
+is a fine specimen of native architecture, made of elaborately carved
+teakwood, finely gilded, but showing the marks of age. In the large
+central room, from which leads a smaller room separated only by columns,
+the so-called golden image of Buddha (also bejewelled) rests on a raised
+dais, and in front is a long table containing a great variety of votive
+offerings to the deity from a widely scattered circle of believers. The
+columns surrounding these rooms were profusely decorated with glass
+ornamentation, and the effect was startling. The Bishop in his robe of
+yellow silk--the color of the Buddhist priesthood--was gracious, and
+the young priests very jolly. We received several presents of long
+narrow books written on palm-leaf, the text being a translation in
+modern Burmese from the old Pali Bible. It is unnecessary to add that we
+left compensation, the sale of said books being forbidden; hence such is
+the way of evading the law!
+
+[Illustration: _The Queen's Golden Monastery_]
+
+[Illustration: _Karen women in Mandalay_]
+
+This monastery contained, like the Silver Monastery, a school for
+children. On our departure, an interesting little episode occurred. A
+young priest draped his long yellow robe around one of the gentlemen, in
+veritable Roman toga style, the right arm and shoulder being exposed.
+Then one of the party took a photograph, promising to send a copy to the
+monastery.
+
+The support of the Buddhist monasteries depends on charity, and a
+procession of priests from each monastery goes about with mendicant
+bowls or baskets, each morning soliciting food and fruit, everything
+being placed in one receptacle. Rice, however, is the principal
+contribution.
+
+We also visited the Aindaw-Yah Pagoda, the oldest in Mandalay. This is
+entirely gilt, from base to spire, and presents an imposing appearance.
+It is surrounded by a large square or platform on which are placed
+various other shrines containing small images of Buddha.
+
+The cause of there being so many pagodas in Burma is that thereby the
+builder gains renown and paves the way for greater happiness in a future
+state. For the above reason the pagoda is seldom repaired. The builder
+desires to be approached as "the builder of a pagoda," and invariably
+addresses his wife as "O wife of a pagoda builder." Architecturally the
+pagoda, in general, may be described as having a spire, massive
+throughout, rising from a circular, square, or octagonal base, in a
+succession of tiers or circles, of which the upper is always narrower
+than the one beneath it.
+
+The principal industry of Mandalay is the weaving of silk, for which it
+is very celebrated, and a visit to the bazar was most interesting.
+Unlike the bazars previously described, this was a large, high building,
+filled with aisles and furnished with long tables, at the back of which
+sat the saleswomen; all the business of the bazar is carried on by
+women. There was a great variety of silk weaving of every conceivable
+shape and style, the sarong being prominent. This is a long colored
+garment which the women of Burma wear pinned tightly around them below
+the waist, unlike the fuller skirt we had seen in India, the dress being
+completed by a short, loose jacket which shows a white under-vest and a
+long, wide sash. The market was also very interesting, in a small
+building next or adjoining the silk bazar.
+
+[Illustration: _Burmese country house near Mandalay_]
+
+It may be well to speak here of the happy, contented, pleasure-loving
+Burmese women. Indeed, their condition could have been envied a few
+years ago, even in a portion of our own United States, as they can hold
+property in their own right and are entitled to their earnings. This
+causes them to be very industrious as well as executive. It is possible
+that the sunny aspect of Nature may partly be responsible for their
+joyous appearance, as it certainly causes the men to be very indolent
+and quite willing that their wives should carry on their business,
+provided they are left undisturbed to enjoy life in their own way.
+
+The women are very fond of dress, and, unlike the women of India, wear
+only real jewelry; travellers see a profusion of solitaire diamond
+rings, every one of which is said to be genuine.
+
+There is no caste in Burma and no division of class; in the olden time
+any one might become a prince or a prime minister if he had the ability
+to rise. There is little expression of art or literature, the life being
+very simple. The people are indeed children of Nature, and the only
+expression of taste is to be found in their pagodas and monasteries.
+Their silver work and wood carving are fine. The houses in the country
+are usually built of bamboo, raised from the ground on poles, four to
+six feet, as protection against floods, reptiles, and other mishaps.
+The floor usually consists of split bamboo, the thatched roof of
+elephant grass. The sides of the house are of bamboo, opening to the
+street on verandas. Some have second stories. Around these homes birds
+and animals and naked children are everywhere to be seen.
+
+Among the incidents of our stay at Mandalay I remember a native dance,
+called "Pwe," given one evening in front of the hotel. This was a little
+on the order of a vaudeville, consisting of a mixture of talk, song, and
+dance. The performers were arranged on a high platform. The women were
+dressed in the extreme of Burmese fashion, having long pink silk sarongs
+tightly drawn around them, jackets and long sashes, and with flowers in
+the hair. They appeared in the dancing and the singing, while the two
+men furnished the dialogue. The music was anything but melodious, and
+the talking we could not understand; but from the applause of the large
+number of spectators gathered around, we assumed, however, that it was
+funny. The movement of the dance was very slow and measured, as had been
+all the dancing we had witnessed in the Orient. The effect was rather
+spectacular, seen in a dim light, with trees for a background. Whenever
+a dance of this kind occurs, it soon gets noised about, and large
+gatherings of people arrive, and they group themselves around, sitting
+always on the ground and observing a profound silence except when they
+applaud.
+
+[Illustration: _A national dance at Mandalay_]
+
+Near our hotel was an English Wesleyan mission, directed by the Rev. Mr.
+Bestol. A friend and I visited it, and found it very interesting and
+cheerful,--the home of the missionaries, and the assistant teachers who
+supervised the boys' and girls' school, and the dormitories. They seemed
+to be doing a very good work. On the occasion of our first call, they
+had all gone on a picnic, quite after our usual Sunday-school fashion.
+We also heard of other missions of merit.
+
+At 5 P.M. we left our hotel for the landing of the Irrawaddy Flotilla
+Company to pass the night on the steamer _Siam_. We were now on a model
+river vessel for three days. The scenery was varied and picturesque. At
+points from the water's edge there were terraced slopes of vegetation,
+trees of many kinds and hues, the dark green foliage alternating with
+the light green of the graceful bamboo, while creepers and flowers
+peeped out here and there, also clumps of toddy palms rearing their
+lofty heads, while the ever-prevalent pagoda glistened white or golden
+through the branches. As the steamer carried freight, occasional stops
+were made, and this gave variety to the scene.
+
+We arrived at Pakoku about 4 P.M. and anchored for the night. The shore
+was lined with piles of bags, boxes, and other usual accessories.
+Natives were seen in all directions with a new array of articles, some
+bearing baskets suspended from bamboo poles across the shoulders, while
+bullock carts and other primitive vehicles, together with the variety of
+style and color of the attire worn by the natives, made a scene truly
+picturesque. We also stopped at Mirout. Here were mud volcanoes, which
+some of the party visited, being carried there in bullock carts, and
+found them rather interesting, the volcanoes emitting mud instead of
+lava.
+
+We arrived at a place near old Pagan at four in the morning, and never
+can I forget the spectacle presented from my stateroom window. There was
+total darkness, save where long lines of natives with lanterns, coming
+from the woods in every direction, were seen carrying boxes, bales, and
+baskets of freight to the shore. Once at the landing, the rush and
+commotion and waving of lanterns were truly Burmese. The next point in
+our progress was old Pagan, where we saw many pagodas, but we were told
+that there were as many as a thousand in the days of her prosperity.
+
+On the river we constantly passed shipping of various kinds, sometimes
+huge rafts of teakwood propelled by natives, mostly devoid of attire;
+the peculiar Burman paddy boats of old Egyptian style are used for
+transporting unhulled rice. A more peaceful trip cannot be imagined,
+and it has been compared to a passage up the Nile.
+
+[Illustration: _On the Irrawaddy River, near Sagoing_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PROME: We arrived at Prome the evening of January 12th, but owing to
+some hours' delay we were disappointed in not having the expected drive
+or visiting the celebrated pagoda. We took the night train for Rangoon
+and were so fortunate as to have the _de luxe_ cars again.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+RANGOON: We reached the city early the following morning. Rangoon is
+located on the ocean and is furthermore aided by the Irrawaddy River,
+which is navigable for over nine hundred miles. It has an unrivalled
+location for future growth and permanence. Rangoon's increase has been
+phenomenal for this latitude; in 1852 it was a small fishing village; in
+1904 the inhabitants numbered two hundred and fifty thousand, and there
+has since been a marked increase. The population is divided into
+Burmese, Hindus, Mohammedans, and Christians, with a sprinkling of other
+nationalities,--a variety which is distinctly recognized in the life of
+the city. It has a large export trade in rice, lumber, and oil, and a
+visit to one of the factories is almost always included by tourists.
+
+The shipping at Rangoon presents a picturesque variety, as ocean
+steamers, river steamers, paddy boats, and quaint smaller vessels are
+always in evidence. The civil and municipal buildings do not, however,
+compare with those of such rival cities in India as Bombay, Calcutta,
+and Madras. The bazars in the European quarter are unusually fine, and
+it was a pleasure to visit them, silks, curios, and silver work being
+well displayed. In the native quarter those of the inhabitants to be
+seen on the street (previously described) had no distinctive character,
+but the native silk bazars were mostly in a large, low, poorly lighted
+building, divided into aisles. A visit to this neighborhood showed the
+happy-go-lucky features noticed in Mandalay.
+
+Indeed, life in Burma is like a comic opera. I realized this one morning
+when going about simply to be amused. The market and pavements were
+crowded with persons of different nationalities,--the pineapple man with
+his tray of fruit, the Burmese girl with her pretty stall of cigars, the
+Hindu seller of betel, the Chinaman under his swaying burden of cooked
+meats and strange luxuries, the vermicelli man, the Indian confectioner
+with his silver-coated pyramids of sago and cream. It is of all crowds
+the most cosmopolitan. Here is the long-coated Persian with his air of
+breeding and dignity, jostled by the naked coolie with rings in his
+nose. The lady beauty of Japan dashes by in her jinrikisha drawn by a
+Chinese coolie, and the exclusive Brahman finds himself shoulder to
+shoulder with the laughing daughter of the soil who has never heard of
+caste.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Rangoon_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SHWE DAGON: The centre of attraction in Rangoon, however, is the Shwe
+Dagon Pagoda, which is famous wherever the Buddhist religion prevails;
+it is situated on an eminence, one hundred and sixty-six feet above the
+sea-level and towering up three hundred and sixty-eight feet. It is a
+very imposing structure, exceeding in height even St. Paul's Cathedral
+in London. This proportion gives it an air of dignity and repose, while
+its gilded surface from base to finial causes it to be truly
+magnificent.
+
+The structure has no interior, being built solidly of brick over a relic
+chamber; hence its platform with a circumference of about fourteen
+hundred feet is the place for worship and also for many small pagodas.
+The great pagoda is of conical shape and is divided into twelve parts,
+and of these the ti, or umbrella, valued at £60,000, is the most costly
+and remarkable, and was the gift of King Mindon, the next to the last
+king of Burma. While from its great height it is scarcely visible, it is
+really thirteen and one-half feet high and is hung with about fifteen
+hundred bells, many of them gold. When heard at night, the effect is
+magical.
+
+The southern entrance has a pair of gryphons, and beyond them is the
+entrance arch, which is inferior to the rest of the edifice. Here may be
+seen venders of many kinds, selling gold leaf (which is used by pilgrims
+on the surface of the pagoda), books, papers, toys, and offerings to
+place on the altar; and the scene around the stalls is instinct with
+life and gayety. Brightly dressed women and children, coquettish girls,
+nuns, and beggars all assemble here.
+
+There are four flights of stairs, east, west, north, and south, leading
+up to the platform; the southern one being mostly used, as it looks down
+upon the thoroughfare. The western stairs have been closed to
+worshippers, as the place is now a British fortress.
+
+It is impossible to describe the many objects of interest on this
+immense platform. Four chapels at the foot of the pagoda are guarded by
+colossal figures of the sitting Buddha, and in the farthest recess, in a
+niche, is a small Buddha, the gilding of which is discolored by the
+smoke from many thousands of tapers and candles.
+
+On each side of the pagoda are chapels with tapering roofs and upturned
+eaves, and within them are seated images of the Buddha covered with
+gold. These attract large numbers of worshippers, and with the myriad
+waxen tapers produce an impressive effect.
+
+[Illustration: _Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon_]
+
+[Illustration: _Entrance gateway, Shwe Dagon Pagoda_]
+
+[Illustration: _Chapels on platform around Shwe Dagon, Rangoon_]
+
+The chapels are decorated with screens of fine wood carving. The
+coloring is also very striking, the outside being of vermilion and gold,
+the inside of green, gold, and purple.
+
+Hundreds of Buddhas of various sizes are seen in all directions,
+sitting, standing, and reclining; and on the outer edge of the platform
+are small pagodas, each with its ti, or umbrella, and also holding its
+usual offerings of fruit, flowers, or small gifts. Seen at twilight and
+as the candles are being lighted, it is almost bewildering, even
+uncanny, as I found one evening when there alone with my guide, the
+renowned Abraham, who, even though a rigid Mohammedan, assumed a devout
+attitude.
+
+Another prominent pagoda is the gilded Sule. This is situated quite in
+the heart of things, near the Strand, and is graceful in proportions.
+The platform also contains many interesting shrines. A fine distant view
+of the Sule is obtained from Hytche Square.
+
+There are many monasteries (virtually schools for boys), the finest
+being at a suburb called Kemmendine, which is also a centre for the
+manufacture of kalagas, or blankets, usually red with figures in
+appliqué. We enjoyed several pleasant drives while in Rangoon, the
+favorite one being to Royal Lake and through Dalhousie Park; if taken in
+the late afternoon, one will see a gayly dressed, fashionable throng,
+either driving or walking. I had met Mr. and Mrs. W.T. Graham of the
+Burma Civil Service on the steamer from Port Saïd to Bombay, and I was
+indebted to them for two drives,--one to their country home, which was
+an attractive two-storied bungalow with galleries and low windows above
+and below, quite unlike the thatched houses seen in Upper Burma. There
+were contrasts in the general dress and appearance of the natives; pink
+was, however, still the prevailing color in the sarongs, sashes, and
+jackets of the women, and the long hair of the men was the custom. The
+intermarriage between Burmese women and Chinamen was said to be very
+frequent, some of the women preferring the hard-working executive
+Chinamen to the indolent Burmese. And, according to the opinion of a
+gentleman I met later, who had made a study of the subject, the
+intermarriage of the ever-prevalent Chinamen with races of the Orient,
+where caste does not prevent, is in time going to work a great racial
+revolution.
+
+One morning we rose at 5 A.M. for an early excursion to see elephants
+haul teak from the river-bank to higher ground, where the logs would dry
+before transference to the sawmills. We went at this time so as to avoid
+the heat, and also because the elephants rest after 11 A.M. The
+illustration will show the process, but it was an amusing sight to see
+five ponderous animals moving slowly along, propelling the logs with
+their trunks, and ever and anon trumpeting; not being versed in elephant
+expression, I was left in doubt as to whether the sound meant joy or
+sorrow. We visited another similar scene near a large sawmill which we
+explored under the leadership of the manager.
+
+[Illustration: _Elephants carrying logs at Rangoon_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Gilded Sule as seen from Hytche Square_]
+
+A trip to a rice-mill had been spoken of, but, not having breakfasted,
+we preferred to return to the hotel. Tea and toast were served at
+rising, if one desired it, during our entire "Tour." Another novel
+excursion was a long drive to some half-ruined Buddhist temples, a
+monastery, and buildings assigned to the peculiar rites which precede
+the cremation of a Buddhist priest; two bodies were seen in
+curious-looking receptacles, awaiting the culmination of events.
+
+We were disappointed in not seeing a "ceremony," but were told to come
+in the evening and witness a temple dance, and, I believe, also a
+semi-dramatic ceremony. Some of the party did so, but I remained in the
+hotel to write letters, as we were to leave the following morning.
+
+I have alluded to Abraham, our guide in Burma, as a devout Mohammedan,
+but he had numerous characteristics which rather caused distrust, one of
+them being his extreme deference to the ladies of the party, when
+according to the tenets of his religion we were all "fiends incarnate";
+the other was his apparent abject acceptance of all Buddhist
+ceremonies, which we knew at heart he detested. However, "guides" became
+a prolific study, as time went on.
+
+The weather had been hot in Rangoon; so, in spite of our pleasant Burman
+experiences and the joyousness of things in general, we hailed the
+steamer voyage as affording some measure of relief. We sailed at 7 A.M.
+on January 17th, on the steamer _Palmicotta_, for a voyage of four days
+to Madras. As usual, nothing occurred to mar the even tenor of our way;
+the ship was comfortable, the passengers affable, and the sea on good
+behavior.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MADRAS, _January 21st_: We arrived at Madras early on the morning of
+January 21st. The view of the city from the pier was disappointing, but
+the drive of about two miles to the Hotel Connemara showed much natural
+beauty, the trees in particular being very fine. Hot weather met us at
+Madras, but as it is a city of magnificent distances, driving was a
+necessity, and hence less exertion was required. In the park and at the
+Botanical Gardens we saw more natural beauty and took the long drive to
+the sea front, where the fashionable people of the city of Marina go in
+large numbers, and which leads past fine municipal buildings, the
+college, and other places of importance. St. George's Church is
+pleasing, with its quota of memorial statues, and the close is very
+attractive, reminding one of England. The drive through the native
+quarter, called Black Town, presented unusual features. The fort and
+parks were visited, as were also some rather attractive bazars. The
+museum is interesting from an historical standpoint and has many statues
+and bas-reliefs, some relating to Prince Gautama and some to Hindu gods;
+there are also relics of saints. It is particularly rich in specimens of
+armor and jewelled swords.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Madras_]
+
+Madras seems quite as unlike the cities of Northern India as does
+Rangoon, and comparatively few of the thousands of tourists who frequent
+Northern India ever visit Southern India, a great distinction between
+the two being made. It is, however, conveniently near the great Seven
+Pagodas, which we did not visit, and is the gateway to the famous
+Dravidian temples which presented much interest.
+
+We left early in the afternoon in order to visit Tanjore, Trichinopoly,
+and Madura, and for two days sleeping-cars were to be our home. There
+are no hotels in these cities, the wonderful temples serving as a
+substitute, while the English railway restaurant afforded us a certain
+amount of sustenance. The ride to Tanjore was through a lovely country
+with beautiful palms, groves of vari-hued trees, and occasionally a
+tangle of vines.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TANJORE: On our arrival at Tanjore in the afternoon we went directly to
+the forts which enclose the temple, palace, and gopuras. The temple is
+in the little fort. The gopuras claim first attention. They are really
+gateways, a feature peculiar to Southern India. They were intended as a
+fortification to protect the temples from foreign invaders, and are
+imposing in size and structure--towering up (some nine stories high)
+course after course, and literally covered with carvings of animals and
+gods, all colored in red and gold. We passed through a gopura ninety
+feet high, next through a passage one hundred and seventy feet long,
+then through a small gopura, when we arrived at the large outer
+enclosure of the temple, four hundred and fifty by eight hundred feet.
+This is further surrounded by cloisters and open to outsiders, who are
+not, however, permitted to enter the great temple of the adjacent halls.
+But even at a distance we could admire their barbaric splendor.
+
+We were also entertained by the gorgeous temple peacock (considered
+sacred), of enormous size, which, with outstretched tail, posed for us
+with as much evident vanity as a coquettish girl. There are smaller
+shrines and temples distributed about the great enclosure, and in one
+temple is an immense bronze bull. The tower of the great temple is only
+thirty-eight feet lower than the Kutub Minar described in "Old Delhi."
+In the northwest corner of the enclosure is an exquisite small temple
+called Siva Manya and dedicated to the son of Siva. It has a tower fifty
+feet high and a base forty feet square, adorned with pillars, and these
+are continued along another cloister, fifty feet long. Mr. Ferguson
+writes: "It is as exquisite a piece of decorative architecture as is to
+be found in Southern India." The great fort seems like a continuation of
+the small one, and in it are situated the palace and Schwartz Church.
+
+[Illustration: _The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore_]
+
+The palace of the Princess of Tanjore is an immense structure and was
+built about 1550 A.D. It has no merit architecturally, but possesses
+certain features of interest; one of these is a large Durbar room which
+contains bas-reliefs on the wall, and a platform of black granite, on
+which stands a white marble statue by Flaxman of Raja Shah Foji, who was
+a pupil of Flaxman and who was next to the last Raja. There are also to
+be found here portraits of the various members of the royal family and a
+bust of Lord Nelson. In addition, we came across an unusual library for
+India, dating from the end of the sixteenth century, and containing
+eighteen thousand Sanskrit manuscripts, one half of them written on palm
+leaves. Our English guide showed us a portion of the palace occupied by
+two ladies, relatives of the last Raja, this being a courtesy extended
+to them by the English Government and which ceases with their death.
+The Schwartz Church dates from 1770 A.D., and the aged missionary is
+immortalized in a monument designed by Flaxman, which contains eight
+figures beside the reclining one.
+
+The Tanjore and Trichinopoly districts were the scene of the earliest
+work of the Protestant missionaries in India, and the Roman Catholic
+missionaries antedated them by half a century. Churches of these faiths
+are scattered through this and the adjoining districts. We had a late
+luncheon in the restaurant of the railway station and then repaired to
+the train. I have great dislike for a sleeping-car, so it can be
+imagined that the visit to the Dravidian temples was made under
+difficulties. We proceeded to Trichinopoly, arriving there early and
+having a long day before us.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TRICHINOPOLY: Trichinopoly, like Tanjore, has a history full of
+vicissitudes, in which the French and that picturesque figure, Lord
+Clive, appear. The temple of Sri Ranngam is situated a mile from the
+bridge and three miles from the fort, the entrance being through a
+gopura forty-eight feet high; the sides of this passage, one hundred
+feet long and forty-three feet high, are richly ornamented. The
+monoliths which serve as pillars are forty feet high, and every detail
+is on a gigantic scale; this is the largest Hindu temple in India. The
+outer enclosure alone is twenty-four hundred and seventy-five by
+twenty-eight hundred and eighty feet, and has its elephant, but it wears
+a commercial aspect (being filled with bazars) which detracts from the
+dignity of the scene. As we penetrated to the interior temple, the
+buildings diminished in size and importance; the gopuras, however, are
+imposing (there are nine in all), with their profuse decoration, all
+being painted and all varying in size.
+
+[Illustration: _Fort Rock, Trichinopoly_]
+
+In the court around the central enclosure is a hall of about one
+thousand pillars; these are of granite, eighteen feet in height. On one
+side the pillars represent men astride rearing horses, the horses' feet
+being supported by the shields of men on foot beside them. This temple
+was built about 700 B.C. The tanks are of interest in Trichinopoly, but
+less so than in Madura.
+
+The great rock is the most noticeable feature, tunnelled out of which is
+a circular staircase with a gateway leading to interior temples, and on
+the sides of this passage are pillars with peculiar capitals which seem
+to indicate Jain origin. The way upward was dimly lighted, and all
+manner of accidents seemed possible. In fact, there was a very serious
+accident in 1849, when five hundred persons were killed. At one landing
+there was a school of small boys; at another, there were groups of
+worshippers making their descent; turning to the left, we saw a small
+temple of Siva. In the dim light everything seemed weird and unreal. The
+view from the top of the rock was far-reaching, gopuras and temples
+gleaming through the green foliage. There were sacred elephants here, as
+at Tanjore, standing in the usual receptive attitude; for them small
+coins were more acceptable than food, showing how adroitly they had been
+trained.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MADURA: Another very early arrival at Madura, and the programme of the
+day before was repeated. Although Madura is a large place, the temples,
+gopuras, and palaces are the chief attraction. The famous Palace of
+Tirumala Nayak is splendid in its appointments, having large, airy halls
+and audience rooms (similar to the Diwan-i-Khas of Delhi and Agra) with
+richly decorated ceilings, and the bedchamber is resplendent with
+carving and gilding. There is a fine view from the roof of the great
+temple. The nine gopuras are tall, massive, and barbaric in their
+decorations, which consist of horses, lions, elephants, gods and
+goddesses. The great shrines of Siva and his consort are almost
+interminable in their extent, and there is a long vestibule or hall
+divided into aisles by carved columns. This formed a reception room
+for the King in early times, a great contrast to the present scene of
+tumultuous venders with almost every variety of goods, who are more
+noisy than their brothers of North India.
+
+[Illustration: _The Golden Lily Tank, Madura_]
+
+[Illustration: _Entrance to the Madura Temple_]
+
+Within the temple there are many shrines and many Tamil worshippers;
+high-caste Brahmans are also there to minister to the supposed wants of
+the higher gods. Galleries led us out to still other shrines, where are
+installed additional images of gods, who on fête days are carried about
+in gold and silver chariots of untold value. All the most beautiful
+portions of the temple as it now stands were built by Tirumala Nayak,
+the great Madura ruler of modern times, who ascended the throne in 1623
+and reigned thirty-six years.
+
+One of the quadrangles opens out on a tank. An arcade runs around the
+tank, and the walls are painted with representations of the most famous
+pagodas in India. On the north side is the belfry--strange to relate, an
+American bell hangs therein. Here too is the Hall of a Thousand Pillars,
+and this is even more remarkable than the same-named hall at
+Trichinopoly, on account of the marvellous beauty of the construction.
+Near the hall is the great gopura, and opposite this is the new gallery,
+of a magnificent plan but unfinished, known as Tirumala's Choultrie.
+There is so much of interest and detail connected with all of these
+Dravidian temples that one should plan to have more time to devote to
+them. The cursory examination we were afforded measures the disadvantage
+of an itinerary. We left after luncheon for Tuticorin, and arrived there
+at 5 P.M.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TUTICORIN: Tuticorin, on the Gulf of Manaar, is the port of departure
+for Colombo, Ceylon. We had only a hurried glimpse of the city, showing
+white buildings, white sand, and the blackest natives we had yet seen.
+We inferred they were Tamils. A pleasant night on the steamer followed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+COLOMBO, _January 25th_: The morning of January 25th saw our approach to
+the fine harbor of Colombo, and we felt that at last our dream of
+viewing the beautiful island of Ceylon was to be realized. Our first
+impression was received at the landing jetty, where it seemed as if
+every nationality had its representative, so varied was the appearance
+of the natives,--the Laskas from the Malay Peninsula, the Hindus from
+India, as well as Tamil coolies, Arabs from Aden, Buddhist priests, and
+Mohammedans. We found excitement on our arrival at the hotel, owing to
+the expected appearance of the ex-Empress Eugénie and her suite, as well
+as Sir Thomas Lipton and numerous other notable guests.
+
+[Illustration: _Street scene in Colombo_]
+
+The ride to the hotel, located on the sea, had shown us unusual
+luxuriance of vegetation and wonderful trees both in fruit and in
+blossom. This fact was emphasized by a long afternoon drive, beginning
+in the native quarter with its attendant bazars and ending with a long
+country tour for at least an hour through a forest of palms of many
+varieties, the tall talipot towering high--higher even than the
+fruit-laden cocoanut palm,--while bread-fruit trees, jack-fruit trees,
+and bananas made a pleasing variety. A little diversion occurred when a
+boy climbed a tall cocoanut palm, procuring a fine specimen, and opened
+it for us to try. We passed the Victoria Bridge, which took the place of
+the bridge of boats, returning to our hotel by a way that revealed still
+more tropical wonders. The fine Galle Face Hotel, with its sense of
+spaciousness and restful ease, the illuminated grounds, the band, and
+the dash of the waves caused that first Saturday evening to seem almost
+perfection; one and all felt willing to linger on indefinitely, but,
+alas, the iron-clad itinerary must be met, and a week in the mountains
+was to follow!
+
+Colombo is a fine place in which to study types, and nothing is more
+peculiar than the Cingalese man, with his long hair braided in a knot at
+his neck, with the broad shell comb resting on his crown; on State
+occasions the chief waiters at the hotel appear in an exceedingly high
+head piece perched above their customary shell ornament, which they told
+us was the style of a hundred years ago.
+
+The jinrikisha man here is the first person to gain your attention; so
+winning are his ways and so rapid his pace that he is justly popular for
+a short spin to the very interesting shopping district, where almost
+everything may be found, the jewels holding the interest of the stranger
+above all else. But, alas, the pearl, Ceylon's home product, is to be
+had only at fabulous prices and not then in its perfection. We had heard
+of the lure of the pearl in the Gulf of Manaar (separating Ceylon from
+India), and of all the fairy-tale adventures involved in the search for
+it, and so we were disappointed in our failure to see perfect specimens.
+
+The heat in Colombo was not oppressive, but, as in other places, there
+are flying punkahs and electric appliances for cooling the air; then
+there are fans in one's room to use at will, for these Easterners like
+comfort and secure it at whatever cost, and the denizens of the West
+soon fall into their ways, even adopting the English custom of four
+o'clock tea. The spacious entrance hall at the Galle Face Hotel
+presented an animated appearance, with beautifully gowned ladies, and
+their attendants, seated around little tables sipping tea and consuming
+fruit-cake and sandwiches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NUWARA ELIYA: On Tuesday morning, January 28th, we left Colombo for the
+north. The mountain resort of Nuwara Eliya is a great boon even to the
+inhabitants of sea-swept Colombo; and it is also appreciated to its full
+by the tourist who has been surfeited with the close atmosphere of
+cities or grown tired of sea voyages. We had been told that the scenery
+combined the wildness of Switzerland with the peculiar charm of the
+Welsh mountains; hence we felt that a new experience awaited us. The
+railway ride there confirmed our first impression of Ceylon's fine
+growth of trees and shrubs, the road leading first through lowlands with
+endless cocoanut and other palms; while of all the blossom-laden trees
+the gold mohr, with its wealth of scarlet blossoms, surpasses every
+other. Later, rice-fields and tea plantations alternated, the latter
+even covering the sides of mountains. The scenery grew bolder as we went
+along, and at the Junction we took the narrow gauge for our mountain
+climb. This ascent was another triumph of engineering skill, winding
+around long and bold curves.
+
+Nuwara Eliya is located sixty-two hundred feet above the sea, but,
+surrounded by mountains, the country has the appearance of being a
+valley. The Grand Hotel, in bungalow style, is prettily located in well
+laid-out grounds, with a fine view. In the morning we drove to Hakgalla
+Botanical Garden, and on our way there we saw a striking feature in
+great masses of rhododendrons. The road to the gardens through an avenue
+of trees was inviting, and as we turned to the right we had a fine view
+of the west peak of the Hakgalla rock; passing on up the drive, we saw a
+large lake, the banks of which were lined with ornamental trees. There
+is here a pleasing vista of flowering plants, tall palms, and varied
+trees; we examined an immense tea plant twelve feet in diameter, a fine
+clump of tree ferns, and a peculiar silver fern from New Zealand,--also
+a wax palm from New Granada, the leaves of which are covered with a wax
+substance from which good candles can be made; and a fernery with
+twenty-six thousand plants. There is also a flower garden, a house for
+the propagation of plants, and a laboratory for scientific research,
+besides many other interesting features in this truly complete garden.
+
+We visited a tea factory, and an attendant showed us the entire process
+of preparation, even to the wrapping of the tea in packages. During the
+afternoon we drove to Ramboda Pass, six miles distant. From the top of
+the pass, six thousand feet high, there was a panoramic view of mountain
+scenery with the Katinale valley below and the gray-crested Peacock
+Mountain as a centrepiece. Nuwara Eliya is a famed summer resort, with
+beautiful walks, tennis, cricket, and social clubs; the English Church
+is finely located, with the usual well-kept close.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Nuwara Eliya_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+KANDY, _January 30th_: We left Nuwara Eliya, on the morning of January
+30th, for Kandy, arriving there at 2 P.M. The train passed through a
+country similar to that before described, only there was a greater
+descent, Kandy having less altitude than Nuwara Eliya. We had
+anticipated much of Kandy, Ceylon's ancient capital and the scene of
+action in the days of the old Kandyan kings. It is said that when Adam
+and Eve were banished from Paradise they repaired to Ceylon and located
+at Kandy, it being the nearest approach to Paradise. A few days' stay
+there sufficed to show us that the legend was partly justified.
+
+The city is situated in a valley with stretches of mountains on either
+side, a lake nestling in the centre of the place and in the midst of a
+perfect wealth of trees. Nature seemed to challenge our admiration.
+
+The afternoon drive to Peradeniya convinced us that the claim of one of
+the greatest botanical gardens in the world was well founded, for here
+we saw revelations in plants, shrubs, and trees, the new varieties of
+palms seeming wonderful. A talipot palm was in blossom, towering high to
+heaven, but we knew that its course was nearly ended, for when it
+attains about half a century of vitality it droops and dies; this seems
+a strange anomaly of Nature. Great groups of rubber trees (largely
+exported from Ceylon) and immense groups of tall bamboo trees were also
+in plenty.
+
+Kandy, in the Eastern world, derives its greatest renown from being the
+home of Buddha's tooth, and the Temple of the Tooth attracts great
+crowds of pilgrims of the Buddhist faith from many lands. It is said to
+have been brought here in the sixteenth century, and the small temple in
+which it was then placed has been enlarged and made a shrine where
+costly gifts are laid by devotees from China, Japan, the Malay
+Peninsula, Siam, and other remote points. Buddhism claims the larger
+portion of Ceylon's subjects, having in comparison with Hinduism a small
+following in India, where it originated. The tooth is said to be the
+left eye-tooth of Prince Siddhartha, taken from his ashes twenty-five
+centuries ago, but it is believed that the original tooth was burned by
+the Catholic Archbishop of Goa, Portugal, in 1650, and a spurious one
+substituted. However, it is worshipped as the real one, and the morning
+following our arrival, we attended the 9.30 service at the temple, where
+a crowd was in attendance, seemingly enjoying the hideous music of the
+tom-toms and instruments of a similar Oriental character. The tooth is
+not shown except on rare occasions, but through a glass door we saw its
+jewelled casket and the table on which it rests.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Kandy_]
+
+There were many offerings before this relic and before other images of
+Buddha which are to be found presiding over all temples. Much
+superstition was evident, but the sacrifices and practices that are to
+be seen in the Hindu temples are here wanting. It is a sad reflection,
+however, that Buddha's noble teachings could not have borne better
+fruit.
+
+The library of the temple held many richly bound Buddhist books, written
+on leaves made from the talipot palm. The leaves bound together are long
+and narrow, and are held in place between heavy covers. The priests, as
+in Burma, wear a yellow silk robe draped like a Roman toga. They are
+seen everywhere, going about in the early morning with a begging bowl;
+they are ever courteous and apparently well bred. Cremation is
+practised, as with the Hindus, but the rites preceding it are far more
+imposing and cover days of peculiar ceremonies, while the Hindus
+practise almost immediate cremation. A visit to the Government art
+school and museum followed, and then a beautiful mountain drive where
+hill and valley alternated; the views were past description.
+
+In the afternoon we were permitted the courtesy of a visit to the
+Governor's residence, the family being absent. The grounds were large
+and well laid out; the rooms spacious and furnished with a view to
+comfort and to meet the requirements of the climate. We were interested
+in learning that the ex-Empress Eugénie and her suite were about to
+arrive to take up their residence for a time. A so-termed Lady Blake's
+drive followed. This was also largely a mountain ride with more fine
+views; but we surpassed ourselves on the following day in the tour we
+took, and our adjectives were soon exhausted; so it is natural that we
+should vote Ceylon the finest land we had thus far visited.
+
+Sunday was passed quietly; we attended a 6 A.M. service in the English
+Church, and saw a number of natives in attendance, ladies appearing in
+low dresses and with uncovered heads. They were richly clad; so it was
+evidently the custom, even though to us it seemed peculiar.
+
+[Illustration: _Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy_]
+
+[Illustration: _Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ANURADHAPURA: Monday, February 3d, we left Kandy to visit
+Anuradhapura.
+
+Before proceeding, it seems desirable to introduce an historical
+digression. The history of Ceylon is shrouded in mystery, but, from
+chronicles compiled by the early monks, a real foundation or beginning
+has been determined upon, proving that the Cingalese under Wigeyo
+invaded Ceylon in 543 B.C. and conquered the aborigines of the soil. It
+is deemed probable that they came from neighboring continents, and that
+their descendants possessed character and determination; that they were
+builders is shown by the erection of splendid edifices at an early date,
+and after the arrival of the royal Buddhist missionary, Mahindo (son of
+an Indian king), 306 B.C., fine dagobas and monasteries were added, each
+successive ruler seeming ambitious to excel his predecessor.
+
+Anuradhapura was the first capital, but owing to many vicissitudes and
+several invasions of the Malabars of Southern India, the capital was
+moved many times, Kandy being the sixth; it preceded Cotta, near
+Colombo, the latter being the present capital. In 1532, on the landing
+of the Portuguese at Colombo, the last blow was struck, and soon the
+great cities of the Empire were deserted and left in the hands of
+foreigners. The best dagobas were crumbling, immense tanks broken, and
+general devastation succeeded where splendor had long reigned. The
+annals of these centuries, the recital of the achievements and the
+failures of the various rulers, read like a romance, and it seems sad
+that a people thus endowed could not have retained their character and
+independence, although under English rule the island seems prosperous.
+
+The first mention of Kandy is at the beginning of the fourteenth
+century, when a temple was built to receive the sacred tooth and other
+ruins, the possession of which made it an important centre of the
+Buddhist religion and eventually a royal residence; it became the
+capital of the island in 1592. From that time until the final
+establishment of the English rule in 1803, it was repeatedly captured
+and burned by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the English; it
+consequently presents no architectural monuments nor any pretension to
+antiquity.
+
+But it has a better claim to the remembrance of posterity in the fact
+that for three hundred years it was the centre of the national movement
+to resist the aggressions of the foreigner. After the British occupation
+the King was allowed some authority, but owing to certain indignities
+offered to English subjects, war was declared in 1815, the King taken
+prisoner and transported to India, where he died in 1832. Ceylon has
+since been an English colony. The Kandyans are brave and fearless in
+appearance; they never wear the Cingalese comb, as this is a badge of
+the low country. The women dress differently from those in India.
+
+The city presents a wide field of interest for the archæologist, and
+incidentally for the tourist. We were to have a new experience here, as
+we were to be housed in a "rest house," the term applied to a Government
+semi-hotel, usually of a simple description, but serving as a great
+convenience to Government officials in the many places throughout the
+English islands where there are no hotels. We found the one at
+Anuradhapura prettily located in a setting of green, with a garden in
+front. The present little town has a population of about three thousand,
+and is the capital of the north central province of Ceylon.
+
+[Illustration: _Ruins of Anuradhapura_]
+
+The tour of the ruins is divided into a consideration of the outer and
+inner circles, each comprising a drive of several miles. On the
+afternoon of our arrival we took the outer circle and went past towering
+ruined temples called dagobas, remains of palaces once spacious and
+imposing, long rows of stately columns covering a wide space, ruined
+towers, statues, some headless and some showing traces of their former
+skill, immense tanks, and remains of buildings of many descriptions
+which are awaiting the patient investigation of the archæologist. Much
+in this line has already been done, and active work is now being carried
+forward on some of the dagobas, the contribution of Buddhistic pilgrims
+who come from far and near largely aiding the cause. There is also a
+local archæological society which seeks to systematize the effort.
+
+The ride to the inner circle and the more distant points consumed
+another four hours, and an eight-mile excursion will later be alluded
+to. The special objects of interest may be mentioned, with an indication
+of what the ruins represent, as they may have general value. The sacred
+road is a feature of the place, for it is the pathway the pilgrims have
+trod for over two thousand years. The Thuparama is the oldest and most
+venerated of all the dagobas. The largest one is the Jaytawanarama,
+built about the close of the third century A.D. by King Mahicena. The
+height, including the pedestal, is two hundred and forty-nine feet, and
+its diameter three hundred and sixty feet; moreover, the contents of the
+dome of brickwork and the platform on which it stands are said to
+contain twenty million cubic feet. It is also stated that, with the
+facilities which modern inventions supply for economizing labor, the
+building of such a structure at present would take five hundred
+bricklayers from six to seven years, and would involve an expenditure of
+at least $5,000,000. Only the glory of the old outline is now left, and
+its four chapels have crumbled almost past recognition.
+
+[Illustration: _Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba_]
+
+Of interest is the Isurumuniya Temple, constructed by King
+Dewenipiatissa, 300 B.C. The temple is carved out, and circles around a
+formation of natural rock; its shrine is approached by two terraces, the
+steps being in a state of fine preservation. The outer wall of the upper
+terrace is ornamented with a remarkable series of seventeen mural
+frescos in low relief, the subjects being grotesque, and there is a
+large tablet on the south wall consisting of a group of three women, a
+man, and attendants. Close to the entrance of the shrine is a large
+sitting figure holding a horse, and carved out of the face of the rock
+are the heads of four elephants in low relief. The stone doorway is a
+fine specimen of carving, and the pillars which support the porch in
+front of it are beautifully proportioned. The temple has been restored.
+
+A priest's dwelling-house is near, and the priest was officiating at the
+shrine at the time of my visit. I was alone; he signified that I was to
+keep silent, and then offered up a prayer to Buddha in my behalf, for
+which I was doubtless expected to deposit a coin in a contribution box.
+As I did not disappoint the expectant priest, he courteously presented
+me with his card, and this is the name inscribed thereon:
+"Sangharakkhita Mahathera, the High Priest of the Isurumuni Vihara."
+Another interesting dagoba with a most unpronounceable name is now being
+restored through the pious contributions of pilgrims. The present height
+is one hundred and fifty feet, with a diameter of three hundred and
+seventy-nine feet. It was originally surrounded by two large paved
+platforms, the inner one being raised above the other. Around the outer
+wall there was originally a complete circle of elephants, each elephant
+being furnished with tusks of real ivory. The Moonstone Steps are finely
+preserved. There is still a striking frieze of lions running along the
+upper border of the platform, and around the base of the dagoba are five
+large upright statues and a small sitting one, the tallest said to be
+that of King Dutugemuna.
+
+There are wonderful tales told of miraculous work done through the
+celebrated bo-tree, a branch of the oldest historical tree in the world.
+It was planted two hundred and forty-five years before Christ, and its
+story has been handed down in a continuous series of authentic
+chronicles. This is believed by Buddhists to be a branch of the sacred
+bo-tree in Buddh Gaya, India, under which Prince Siddhartha sat on the
+day he attained Buddha-hood, this branch having been sent from India; it
+has been sacredly treated, enriched with stone carvings and braces, and
+honored with magnificent ceremonies by repeated dynasties; it has also
+been spared during the successive invasions of the land. The Chinese
+traveller and author, Fahiam, visited it in the fifth century, and has
+left an authentic record of it as well as of some buildings in this
+ruined city. There are fine columns and many remains of the King's
+palace still standing; in addition to which, the monasteries and tanks
+all show artistic skill.
+
+[Illustration: _The Moonstone Steps_]
+
+Perhaps a clearer idea of the former splendor may be had by a brief
+recital of what chroniclers and archæologists prove to have been the
+plan of the Buddhist Brazen Temple, now a collection of sixteen hundred
+monolithic granite pillars, standing twelve feet from the ground and
+arranged in lines of forty each way; they cover a space measuring two
+hundred and thirty-one feet north to south and two hundred and
+thirty-two feet east to west. This formed the foundation of the great
+Brazen Temple, erected by King Dutugemuna in the second century B.C.
+These columns supported the building, nine stories in height, and
+containing one thousand dormitories for priests. The roof was of sheet
+copper, and the walls were embellished with beads which shone
+resplendent like gems. The great hall was supported on golden pillars
+resting on lions, and in the centre was an ivory throne with a golden
+sun and silver moon on either side, while above it glittered Imperial
+Chinta, the white canopy of dominion. It was destroyed, then rebuilt,
+and the second restoration occurred in the twelfth century, thus showing
+the vicissitudes which this and other ruins have passed through.
+
+The excursion to Mihintale, eight miles distant, was made alone with a
+guide, at six in the morning, the other members of the party preferring
+another excursion. The drive was mostly through what was termed a
+jungle, meaning a roadway cut through the forest and left in its natural
+state; hence there was a tangle of vines and underbrush, and the effect
+was very fine with the great variety which the tropical vegetation
+affords. Reaching our destination, we left the carriage for a walk of
+three quarters of a mile through a forest to the base of a mountain from
+which ascends eighteen hundred and sixty-four wide marble steps, divided
+into four flights, with a landing for each, paths leading to the left or
+right of the landings to some object of interest.
+
+The stairs were not difficult but rather continuous, as we found before
+we reached the top. In the middle of the last flight was a narrow path
+leading to the snakes' bathing-place; this is formed out of solid rock
+and measures about one hundred and thirty feet in length. At the back
+the five-headed cobra has been carved in high relief; it is seven feet
+high and is represented as rising from the water. The sanctity of the
+mountain-top in the eyes of Buddhists is said to be due to the fact that
+on the summit alighted the royal missionary, Mahahindo, when he came
+from India, 307 B.C.; he there met the King, who was out hunting, and
+having listened to a discourse, the King became an ardent Buddhist, a
+fact which later resulted in the conversion of forty thousand of his
+followers.
+
+[Illustration: _Mihitale Steps_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CEYLON: The Ambustala dagoba now marks the spot of the meeting. It is
+built of stone, the terrace around it consisting of numerous columns.
+There are ruined statues, columns, and carved capitals scattered about,
+showing that formerly this was the basis for a group of buildings. There
+are also oblong cuttings in the rock, supposed to be the foundation of
+cave dwellings never completed. One more flight of stairs leads up to
+the gallery, surrounding the Mahaseya dagoba. The view from this highest
+gallery is magnificent; the great plain gave a wide vista, while beyond
+was an outline of the distant mountain range; nearer we saw great masses
+of green, through which shone the three great dagobas of Anuradhapura.
+
+Before leaving the summit we held a conversation with the aged priest
+through an interpreter, and, retracing our steps, drove to the rest
+house for a ten-o'clock breakfast made up of coffee and rolls; then,
+returning to our temporary home in Anuradhapura, we pronounced the
+morning's excursion a success.
+
+In the afternoon we took a drive with a guide through the inner circle,
+when there occurred the incident with the priest previously related.
+
+At 6 A.M. the following day, we returned to Colombo, and again enjoyed
+the tropical vegetation, the views of mountain and valley, of rice and
+tea plantations, and the glimpse of native life which the short stay at
+stations afforded. Time thus passed in the mountains and country of
+Ceylon is indeed fraught with delight. We had an object lesson in the
+habits and customs of the so-called hill-country, Kandy furnishing many
+marked examples; there was particularly the large two-wheeled cart with
+oxen as propelling power. We were also interested in the Rodiyas, living
+in the outskirts, a people oppressed on account of a curse pronounced by
+a king many years ago, one of the conditions being the prohibition of
+clothes above the waist, both for men and women. The latter are noted
+for their beauty, and excel as singers and dancers, but they suffer
+under the stigma of immodesty for the reason given above.
+
+Three restful days followed; the hotel wore a homelike air, and the time
+was full of content and quiet enjoyment. Ceylon fascinated me from the
+first, and after the trip to the mountains and a more perfect
+realization of the natural advantages of the island, the impression
+deepened.
+
+The native people also struck me as being cheerful, but with more
+strength of character than the Burmese, and possessing a certain kind
+of dignity that was pleasing. The bazars too were found unusually
+interesting on a closer inspection, and offered many new and novel
+articles.
+
+[Illustration: _Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon_]
+
+While there were carriage drives, this was our first introduction to the
+jinrikishas, and we found them most convenient and a novelty; only there
+was an uncomfortable feeling that the jinrikisha man in Ceylon was too
+slight for his occupation.
+
+The street scenes presented almost as cosmopolitan an aspect as those at
+Rangoon, and with quite as varied a mixture of nationality.
+
+There was a notable carriage drive of eight miles to Mt. Lavinia, a
+seaside resort with only a hotel perched on a hill, while below on the
+sandy beach were many fishing-boats. Here we whiled away an hour, and
+had afternoon tea.
+
+On Saturday evening, February 8th, we bade adieu to Ceylon, taking
+passage on the steamer _Delhi_ of the P. & O. line, which was to be our
+home until the 14th. We were assigned pleasant rooms, and the general
+environment was agreeable. There was little of incident on the trip
+until we landed at Penang, Malay peninsula, on the morning of the 13th.
+We made a special tour, and noted many beautiful homes with surrounding
+grounds and a general air of thrift. We were once more reminded of Great
+Britain's supremacy in the Far East; it is surprising, the vast amount
+of colonizing, as well as civilizing, she has accomplished.
+
+In Penang, Chinamen were everywhere seen and Chinese business houses
+predominated. The Malay was, however, to be found as he should be on the
+Malay peninsula. At first it was difficult for us to realize that we had
+left the East, Penang being the portal of the Far East, of which
+Singapore is the gateway, her harbor being a famous shipping point.
+
+At 11 A.M. we were sailing on for that port, which is regarded as the
+Paris of the Far East by the wealthy nabobs who frequent the city. The
+Chinese coolie who officiated as jinrikisha man was a sturdier specimen
+of humanity than the one seen at Colombo, and we could enjoy a ride
+without the conscientious scruples experienced at the former place.
+
+Arriving at Singapore, we found we must postpone our visit there, as the
+steamer _Rembrandt_, of the Dutch line, was soon to leave for Java.
+
+It was late in the afternoon when we sailed from Singapore; we caught
+some glimpses of the shore and noted the finest group of the traveller's
+palm we had as yet seen; also some pretty bungalow homes close to the
+water's edge, with tiny gardens enclosing palms and flowers.
+
+[Illustration: _The canal in the old city of Batavia_]
+
+There was scarcely a ripple to be detected, and the elements were
+hushed; the brilliant rays of the setting sun shed a halo over the
+peaceful landscape.
+
+We imagined there must be some premonition of the event which was to
+take place in the night, namely, the passing of the equatorial line; and
+we tried to keep our senses alert in order not to miss the subtle
+significance of so unusual an event, but in the morning there was the
+humiliating reflection that sleep had "won the day"! At noon we began to
+realize that we were at Summer's door and would soon learn the true
+quality of the tropical heat, of which we had had as yet only a prelude.
+
+The Java Sea was as placid as the Strait of Malacca had been, and there
+was little to break the monotony save a passing steamer, a glimpse of
+Sumatra's shore, and an occasional island. Another night passed, and in
+the morning we were at the harbor of Tandjong Priok, which is nine miles
+from the city of Batavia. We arrived there in a pouring rain; we were
+now in a land where rain is prevalent, this being the wet monsoon
+season.
+
+After a very slight custom-house inspection was completed, we left by
+train for Batavia, one of the capitals of Java. We were at once
+impressed with the variety of the landscape and the tropical richness of
+the trees and shrubs. The Dutch aspect of the architecture and the
+canals were evidence of the influence of the fatherland, but the natives
+seemed to be a mixture of Javanese and Malays, while the Chinese, as
+elsewhere, were to be seen in large numbers.
+
+The canals are the principal feature of the old city of Batavia; but
+along the streets one detects also many business houses and banks, some
+of the largest being Chinese.
+
+The Hôtel des Indes is located in the new city called Werengen. On
+entering the enclosure which surrounds the hotel, a large banyan tree
+was the central object directly in front of the hotel proper, situated
+nearly in the centre of a square.
+
+On three sides of the square are arranged a continuous series of
+one-story suite of rooms opening in front on a wide veranda, shut off
+from the adjacent suite by screens of stained glass and shaded by glass
+and awnings. This was the salon of the suite, furnished with rugs,
+chairs, centre table, and writing-desk. Here all waking hours are
+supposed to be passed. The largest homes of the residents are similarly
+arranged; such an exterior forms the large drawing-room, often
+beautifully furnished. It all seemed new and novel to us, but the climax
+was reached when we saw even matrons on exhibition in these show boxes,
+dressed in loose jackets, sarongs drawn closely around them, and their
+bare feet simply encased in sandals; also stout Dutchmen in pajamas, and
+sometimes this costume was worn in the dining-room with the utmost
+unconcern, showing how customs vary in different countries.
+
+[Illustration: _Batavia, Java_]
+
+The charming bungalow homes in the new city, surrounded by spacious
+grounds, pleased us, as did the business houses; some fronting on canals
+which were spanned by artistic bridges. The Museum of the Batavian
+Society of Arts and Sciences was rich in exhibits of Sumatra's and
+Borneo's products and handwork, as well as in Javanese antiquities and
+in articles of silver and gold workmanship, which were novel in design
+and skilfully executed. The building is classic in its lines and very
+pleasing.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_February 18th_: An early train, 6 A.M., for Buitenzorg gave us the
+freshness of the morning for travel, and the two hours thus consumed
+were filled with exclamations of delight over the beauty of the scenery.
+Soon after our arrival at the Hotel Belle Vue, we drove to the Botanical
+Gardens, where, like Peradeniya in Ceylon, a revelation awaited us.
+Masses of pink lotus, white lilies, Victoria Regia, and other varieties
+of the lily family formed great patches of color on the miniature ponds
+that were their setting. Orchids in greenhouses and on trees put forth
+their graceful flowers; palms of every description, candle trees with
+myriads of almost realistic candles which were suspended from the
+branches, sausage trees with veritable bolognas hanging from the limbs,
+bread-fruit trees, lovely vistas of the graceful banana, and groups of
+other foliage or shrubs surrounded us in abundance.
+
+The Governor's spacious residence looks out upon the park on one side,
+and a pretty summer-house overlooking a valley gave a picturesque touch
+to the place.[4] The ride around the city showed lovely homes set in
+varied greens, and a general air of thrift and prosperity prevailed.
+
+The hotel is charmingly located and has pleasant features. It fronts on
+a garden, with a wide gallery overlooking the city. A square court in
+the rear is encircled by a series of rooms, with the front gallery
+looking on the court, and the back gallery facing a valley (the house is
+built on a side hill) through which runs a river with a tiny village on
+its border; while beyond a wide vista of cocoanut palms rises a range of
+mountains, Mt. Salak being the distinctive feature. Both galleries are
+well furnished, and here guests assemble when in the hotel. The view
+from the rear gallery I have never seen surpassed in breadth, except
+perhaps by that in Granada, when from Miss Laird's balcony (near the
+Alhambra) we looked down upon the city, with the mountains beyond.
+
+[Illustration: _View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue_]
+
+The Javanese view was enjoyed for hours, as a heavy rain prevented our
+afternoon ride, and the letters that should have been written were
+somewhat neglected, owing to the view described.
+
+One shrinks at being called at four o'clock in the morning, at having
+breakfast at five, and at taking a train at six, but such was our
+experience on February 19th. One leaves Buitenzorg for Garoet as the
+first streak of dawn appears; as we sped along, we realized more and
+more what tropical vegetation and abundant rain could produce, for the
+vivid greens and dewy freshness of the foliage surpassed even Ceylon's
+landscape, which in its turn had surpassed anything before seen, even
+our own South and Southern California not excepted; Java is indeed the
+garden of the world! With remote mountain views on either side of us and
+nearer aspects of palms and trees bearing names unknown, there were
+interspersed rice plantations, unlike the flat fields of Burma,
+cultivated in terraces rising one above the other on hilly slopes. An
+occasional tea plantation lay here and there, and some traces of coffee
+plantations; the cultivation of the bean has been partly abandoned
+owing to the blight about ten years since.
+
+As the train climbed upward, our destination being Garoet, two thousand
+feet above the sea-level, the scenery grew less marked, but we were
+still encircled by the Gedeh Mountain range. The great Garoet plain
+consists of wide level stretches and extended rice-fields, less marked
+by terraces than those we had seen before; therein is situated the
+quaint village of Garoet, a favorite hill resort, where we found the
+noted Hotel van Horck with its reputation for neatness and restful
+hospitality. The one-story building has suites of rooms looking out on a
+spacious garden, conventional in style, with its wealth of trees,
+shrubs, and flowers, also busts and statues. A large oval bed of
+brilliant crotons on one side of the garden, and another foliage bed
+that formed the base of a pyramidal vase on the other side, were
+especially admired.
+
+The pretty little village of Garoet seemed to breathe a spirit of
+contentment, and it is quite a resort for people from a lower altitude.
+It is also the starting-point for various excursions, some of which we
+took, but the daily rains proved an obstacle. The afternoon of our
+arrival we drove to a pretty lake, but a sudden rain prevented a sail to
+the island in an exceedingly quaint little kiosk, which rests on two
+long boats. The bad weather also prevented a visit to the Hot Springs,
+where baths of a rather primitive character are furnished.
+
+[Illustration: _A village scene in Garoet, Java_]
+
+The most noted excursion is to the crater of Papandajang. We departed on
+this quest, about five in the morning, driving eleven miles to the rest
+house at Tjiseroepan, where ponies and sedan chairs were furnished for
+the ascent, a distance of about six miles. Four of our party selected
+saddle horses, and four preferred sedan chairs (I took the latter). The
+chairs are carried by four men, two in front and two in the back,
+supporting on their shoulders long bamboo poles on which the sedan is
+placed. They were similar to those used in the ascent of Tiger Hill, at
+Darjeeling, but seemed to be more like palanquins, for one could half
+recline therein.
+
+The ascent once begun, our eyes were riveted first on one side of the
+narrow roadway and then on the other, so diversified was the view: first
+patches of bananas, then palms and bamboo which formed an archway. Such
+was the continued landscape, while intervening spaces were devoted to
+the cultivation of coffee. The chichona plant, from which quinine is
+made, was also seen, and one or two patches of tea plantations. A
+picturesque feature of this ride was a double hedge made of two rows of
+bamboo poles with an occasional horizontal support, between which were
+vines, low palms, and unknown plants; as we ascended farther low ferns
+formed a fringe at the base of the hedge. Never have I seen anything
+lovelier than this trellis of Nature, which extended about half-way up
+the ascent; then the way grew narrower and we were in the real jungle.
+Here surprising wonders awaited us, towering palms and other trees,
+vines and giant ferns, some of which had taken root in crevices of a
+tall palm, producing a round basket effect. This was three times
+repeated on the trunks of several palms, a stray seed having, perhaps,
+settled there. It seemed to me as though the palm, if it could, would
+utter a protest.
+
+The higher we went, the larger and more varied grew the ferns. There had
+been flowers all the way--wild phlox, the primrose, the creeping
+periwinkle, and white and red dentura, together with many trees of
+brilliant foliage similar in color to our Autumn tints. There was also a
+very tall bush with clusters of bright yellow blossoms, in size much
+like our wild rose. When nearer the crater, the trees became small and
+the vegetation more sparse, until we reached the point where we left our
+chairs and commenced our final ascent, about one quarter of a mile, over
+broken pieces of lava. Then we arrived at the halting-point and gazed on
+the near crater, inhaling the sulphurous fumes, hearing the rumble, and
+seeing the clouds of vapor as they issued forth, with a mixture of
+bright yellow sulphur. The volcano is now inactive, the last eruption
+having taken place in 1772, when forty villages were destroyed. At this
+time the side of the crater towards us was broken. It is altogether a
+fine spectacle.
+
+[Illustration: _The crater of Papandajang_]
+
+Having partaken of our breakfast at ten-thirty, we prepared for our
+descent, when, alas! a pouring rain set in, and as the slight covering
+of the sedan chair afforded little protection, there was no avoiding a
+thorough wetting. We had thought of the fine views we would have in our
+descent, and were now glad of the occasional backward glances we had
+taken during our upward climb. These were fine, of great breadth,
+embracing distant mountains, nearer ones, and an occasional plain which
+is a characteristic feature of a Java landscape. The descent was very
+steep in places, and the footing of the men was rather uncertain; hence
+it was a relief when the task was accomplished. We viewed some new
+features every now and then, a noticeable one being a group of twelve
+very large banyan trees of the variety known as Werengen in a field near
+the rest house; their white gnarled trunks and limbs suggested the
+forest primeval.
+
+The next morning we drove twelve miles to Leles, past the broad Leles
+plain, and nearly all the way through a shaded avenue of trees, at times
+forming a natural archway. The lake was most picturesque, with its
+three islands and varied shore line. On one side there was a small
+cultivated mountain sloping to the water's edge. A heavy rain prevented
+the afternoon excursion.
+
+We left Garoet on February 22nd, for almost a day's railroad journey to
+Djokjakarta.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DJOKJAKARTA, _February 22nd_: We arrived at Djokjakarta on Saturday,
+February 22nd, at 4 P.M. A drive followed, showing us an older and
+prettier place than Garoet, with a large Chinese quarter, in which the
+shops lacked much attraction.
+
+The Sultan's palace was pointed out; it was by no means imposing. We saw
+his elephants, but declined to enter the enclosure where the tigers were
+confined. Some of the houses were Dutch in style; others were Javanese
+of the one-story bungalow type, with open fronts. Early the following
+day, at 6 A.M.., we drove to the ruined temple of Prambanam, and nine
+miles from Djokjakarta, we visited Chandi Kalasan ("chandi" means a
+mausoleum), a beautiful ruin, unfortunately too dilapidated to afford
+much satisfaction, but from the remains that have been found
+archæologists base their belief that it was incomparably beautiful in
+conception and workmanship. We also went to another temple, Chandi Sewo,
+about half a mile distant, which also showed marks of great beauty.
+We drove on, perhaps a mile farther, and came to a wonderful group of
+temples, dating about the same period, known as Prambanam, where we saw
+what excited our wonder and admiration. Though the ruins did not contain
+a single genuine Buddha figure, holding only many images of Hindu gods,
+archæologists find ample proof that they were built by Buddhists (they
+have been called Hindu temples).
+
+[Illustration: _The ruined temple of Prambanam_]
+
+[Illustration: _Bas-reliefs in the Siva Temple, Prambanam_]
+
+[Illustration: _The stairs leading to a Prambanam temple_]
+
+Time will not, however, permit an elucidation of them further than to
+state that Dr. Gronneman, a celebrated writer and archæologist and an
+accepted authority, believes that a number of monuments and bo-trees
+have within a few years been hewn out around the base of each of the
+temples, these being covered with the traditional parasols; many of the
+dagoba-shaped bells have also been found,--a symbol of the tree under
+which Prince Siddhartha attained Buddha-hood. Dr. Gronneman also calls
+them Prambanam. The ruins form a group of eight temples or
+chandis,--three greater and three lesser ones in two parallel rows,--the
+former on the west, the latter on the east side of the spacious square,
+with two smaller ones at the ends. These were doubtless mausolea built
+over the ashes of princes or chiefs. The temples were probably
+constructed toward the end of the eighth century, and unfinished
+sculptures show that the work was stopped before completion. It is
+stated that possibly this may have been caused by the overthrow of the
+Empire at that time. There are two flights of stairs on each side, the
+lower leading to a landing which is raised a few feet above the terrace,
+but in the corners between the stairs and the wall of the basement are
+miniature temples of exquisite workmanship, the front and side walls of
+which had niches, each containing a high-relief figure of a man or a
+woman. The upper flight of stairs (three sides lead to the entrance to
+three chapels with pyramidal roofs of their own) have suffered much
+devastation.
+
+The largest of the temples has a broken image of Siva, more than life
+size. This, together with the nature of the bas-reliefs, has caused
+archæologists to name it the Siva Temple. In like manner the second
+temple has been called Brahma, and the third Vishnu, thus including the
+Indian triumvirate of gods. On the upper walls of the basements of all
+the principal temples are several series of sculptures, each following
+one division of the wall. Most of the niches contain small lions with
+curled manes, while some in the projecting part of the wall have three
+heavenly nymphs standing in a stately manner with arms interlaced. A
+series of sculptures which has been preserved almost intact on the inner
+side of the parapet wall of the Siva Temple is a repetition of the first
+part of the Rama legend as told in the Indian epic, "Ramayana," and it
+is thought that the corresponding series of the other temples may have
+represented the sequel to that history. A ponderous cornice richly
+ornamented, which is now almost gone, runs over this series of
+sculptures. Another series was found on the walls of the temple itself a
+few feet higher than the terrace, and still higher up there is a more
+continuous series, but the arches and figures are lost in the almost
+general wreck which time and the elements have wrought. Only a hint of
+the character of these ruins has been given, but with the aid of the
+illustrations, some idea of them, of their entire beauty, as well as of
+the imposing majesty of the sculptures, may be gained. The Loro Jonggram
+Temple has a celebrated bas-relief in an elaborate niche, called the
+"Three Graces."
+
+[Illustration: _The Three Graces in the Lara Jongram Temple, Java_]
+
+About a quarter of a mile distant from the Prambanam there is another
+group of temples covering the largest circumference of any other group
+in the region. The principal temple, much surpassing the others in size,
+stood on a raised rectangular terrace, enclosed by a low wall with a
+gateway in the middle of each side. A little lower there were
+twenty-eight temples forming a rectangular enclosure, and another more
+spacious court was enclosed by forty-four temples. There was a still
+larger rectangular terrace with eighty temples, and a lower terrace
+with eighty-eight temples, making two hundred and forty in all; hence,
+by exaggeration, the name, "One Thousand Temples." Each of the temples,
+which diminish in size, forms a square with a little approach and small
+_steos_ leading to the inner room. The largest temple of the group was
+rich in detail and sculpture designs, which, like the Prambanam group,
+relate to the Indian triumvirate, Siva, Brahma, and Vishnu, with the
+same evidences, however, as to Buddhist origin. There were still other
+ruined temples in the vicinity which could not be visited, but we drove
+back the nine miles to Djokjakarta, feeling that we had had a rich
+morning's experience and also deeply impressed with the labor, patience,
+and skill which these ruins represented.
+
+We arrived at the Hotel Mataram in time for luncheon in the pleasant
+open dining-room, leading to a garden filled with trees, from whose
+branches were suspended orchids of various hues. February 24th was the
+date fixed for a trip of twelve miles by carriage to the Buddhist
+temple, Boro Boedor, but the late rains of the monsoon season had
+carried away a bridge that must be crossed; hence a grave doubt arose as
+to whether we would be able to go. Our enthusiasm, however, led us to
+take the risk, with the result that on reaching the scene of the wreck
+we found an improvised footbridge and another train awaiting us on the
+opposite side. Our railway journey terminated, we took a carriage for a
+drive of several miles, stopping on our way at the old temple of
+Mendoet, small but very perfect in its construction, with fine
+bas-reliefs and large architectural ornaments; also some immense savage
+gargoyles, which were especially noticeable.
+
+[Illustration: _The old temple at Mendoet_]
+
+We ascended the stairs to the inner room, where was a large-sized figure
+of Buddha, with the attendant figures at each side called his sons,
+Buddhavista, meaning "future Buddhas." Driving on, we came to another
+missing bridge. Here we were taken across on a rude raft, the carriage
+following, and then the horses. As we drew near Boro Boedor, a feeling
+of awe came over us, for we were to behold a temple which for centuries
+had been buried from the sight of man. Indeed, until the debris of time
+was removed, after English occupation in 1811, not a hint of its
+existence even had been known. This work was undertaken by Sir Stamford
+Raffles before the cession of Java to the Dutch in 1816, and carried on,
+aided by eminent archæologists. Much has been done by the Government and
+by an Archæologist Society since 1885, and at the time we were there it
+was said that about one thousand workmen were employed on the temple.
+
+The approach being over a hill, the view of the temple is suddenly
+disclosed, but from the rest house we had a side glimpse. This is
+confusing at first, and the structure seems too broad for the height,
+thus lacking in impressiveness; but as one approaches and the huge mass
+takes on color and expression, with the many-sided pyramids of dark gray
+stone, the mass of cupolas, spires, and walls surrounded by a high
+central dome, the impression taken altogether becomes almost
+overpowering. It is a structure difficult to describe, but a few
+outlines with the aid of the illustrations may give you some idea at
+least of its size and impressiveness.
+
+First, it is not a building in the ordinary sense and has no entrance.
+It is the top of a hill, artificially lowered and encircled with
+galleries built by human hands. The lowest terrace, which is shown in
+the picture, forms the upper portion of a terrace wall, which is still
+submerged below the soil. This terrace has thirty-six sides, measuring
+three hundred and seventy-four feet in diameter. Below is a larger
+terrace, square in shape, estimated at five hundred feet; it is
+underground, while above it is another of the same shape as the middle
+terrace, from which it is reached by stairways on each of the four
+sides. Some years ago it was discovered that three terraces were of a
+later date than the original internal structure, which is more slender
+in shape, and that they were constructed in order to support the latter
+when it began to show signs of settling. The base of the lower terrace
+has been exposed in places in order to obtain photographs of the
+beautiful bas-reliefs, but it was subsequently covered, inasmuch as it
+would have been a grave mistake to run the risk of leaving it
+permanently exposed.
+
+The building above the three terraces consists of four parapeted
+galleries, erected upon the internal walls of the lower gallery, and of
+four upper terraces, the three highest of which are circular. The
+topmost terrace is crowned by a large cupola, or dagoba. The Boro
+Boedor, from its base to the top of the cupola, has a height of
+ninety-seven feet, while the elevation of the hill to the lower step is
+about fifty-five feet, making a total of one hundred and fifty-two feet.
+Each of the lower galleries is about seven feet wide, the walls on
+either side being lined with sculptures which, if they could be extended
+in a line, would cover three miles. We walked around the galleries and
+ascended the steps.
+
+In the lower gallery there is, beneath every Buddha, a representation of
+a man, on either side of which are groups of three figures, each bearing
+lotus flowers and fans.
+
+The inner circle of the second gallery contains, in the upper row,
+bas-reliefs representing scenes connected with the history of Prince
+Siddhartha (Gautama) from his infancy to the period when he attained
+Nirvana.
+
+The third gallery wall contains one hundred and eighty bas-reliefs,
+depicting the apotheosis of Buddha. The fourth, in eighty different
+scenes, pictures the rewards given to kings who have been Buddha
+worshippers, while the fifth contains a large number of images of Buddha
+and of two kings, probably the founders of the temple. Other bas-reliefs
+that are interspersed represent fanciful subjects and scenes from life
+or are illustrations of legends; one of the latter deals with the
+turtle, which is regarded as sacred by all true Buddhists.
+
+Staircases ascend from gallery to gallery in a straight line on each of
+four sides. These have pointed arches with carved keystones, and
+formerly were guarded by heavy banisters and carved lions. The parapeted
+walls of the galleries were once decorated with four hundred and
+thirty-two niches, each with three turrets, and contained four hundred
+and thirty-two life-sized Buddhas, seated on lotus cushions.
+
+[Illustration: _Boro Boedor, in Java_]
+
+[Illustration: _Stairway of Boro Boedor, Java_]
+
+[Illustration: _Boro Boedor, Java, showing one part of the gallery_]
+
+The three upper circular terraces are individually adorned with
+thirty-two, twenty-four, and sixteen openwork bell-shaped cupolas, or
+dagobas, each containing a Buddha in sitting posture. Inside this circle
+rises the central dagoba of huge, imposing dimensions, the final crown
+to the whole structure. This is modelled after the same type as the
+smaller ones, but its walls rise perpendicularly from the base, which
+has the form of a huge lotus cushion in a beautiful frame, and ends at
+the top in a slightly rounded dome rising at least twenty-seven feet
+above the highest terrace. Of the cone which formerly surrounded this
+dagoba nothing is left except part of the pedestal, a stone block
+afterwards fashioned into a seat five feet high by ten feet broad. This
+is reached by some rough stone steps. The cupola, or dagoba, was at one
+time entirely closed, but when opened some years ago it was found to
+contain a large unfinished figure of Buddha.
+
+Our party climbed to the seat alluded to, and what a view presented
+itself!--a wide valley or plain, miles in extent, surrounded by the
+towering Minoch mountains in the distance, with lesser mountains
+seemingly as foothills, but nevertheless some of them volcanic craters;
+villages almost concealed by the masses of foliage, with whole tracts of
+palms and masses of green,--and all bathed in the glorious sunlight. We
+sat spellbound, and finally descended the long flight of stairs feeling
+we had had a morning's experience which never could be repeated. In the
+words of Dr. Gronneman (to whom we owe a debt of gratitude for his
+explanations), "upwards of a thousand years have since rolled over the
+Boro Boedor; earthquakes and ash showers have disjointed its walls, and
+rank vegetation has disintegrated its foundation, ... and shortsighted
+fanatics have defaced its works of art, but still the ruin stands there,
+an imposing fact, a powerful creation of the thinking mind, an epic in
+stone, immortal even in its decadence."
+
+We walked to the pleasant rest house, called Passagrahan, for our
+luncheon. Soon the rain which had threatened us fell in torrents, but
+neither this fact nor any other obstacle dimmed our enthusiasm as we
+sped on our homeward way. To prove my own absorption in the day's
+programme I would state that I amused the party on our arrival at the
+train by saying to our Malay servant, "Buddha, will you take my wrap?"
+his name being Pandox.
+
+The next morning I drove about Djokjakarta in search of photographs and
+found the place much more attractive than I had supposed. One long
+avenue of trees in particular impressed me; on alternate sides were the
+tamarind and the canary tree, forming a perfect arch overhead. This
+continued for a long way, and there were various other shaded streets
+that attracted my attention.
+
+Djokjakarta is a place of importance, the capital of a native State; the
+Sultan preserves some semblance of power and lives in regal style,
+keeping up all the ceremonials of his high office. This was one of the
+last provinces to yield to Dutch rule. There is a Dutch resident to
+whom the Sultan must pay deference and from whom he accepts advice. We
+did not see the Sultan, but we saw four sons of his out driving, dressed
+in red and each carrying a red silk umbrella, the emblem of royalty.
+
+[Illustration: _A public square in Djokjakarta, Java_]
+
+The life at Djokjakarta is much like that of old Java, and the peasants
+are said to be of a higher type than those corresponding to the coolie
+class in India and Ceylon, many of this class in Java being Sudanese.
+There are several strains of blood in Java, and a mixture of Arab
+ancestry with Mohammedan faith; for centuries, Java passed through many
+transitions, and it would be interesting to trace her history backward.
+
+Djokjakarta being but twelve miles from the Indian Ocean, the heat is
+never oppressive, and the breezes from sea and mountain produce an
+agreeable temperature, as I found one morning, much to my delight. The
+bazars were not enticing, but there were various attractive articles for
+sale at the hotel,--cardcases made with tiny feathers, portemonnaies,
+woven baskets, and, above all, sarongs, the product of a large factory
+near by, which has been fostered by English and Dutch women as a kind of
+philanthropy for the teaching and employment of girls, as the
+"manageress" at the hotel explained to us. These sarongs are four and a
+half yards long by one and one-half wide, the fabric, though heavier,
+being similar to calico. The patterns are quite artistic, and the
+process of designing, drawing, stamping, and weaving is complicated.
+
+The Water Castle was formerly like a summer-house in an Oriental garden,
+with its underground chambers and all manner of appliances for luxurious
+ease. It has now fallen into decay; the aqueducts and fountains are
+stilled; the statues are covered with moss, and the gardens are a
+perfect tangle. It was the device of a Portuguese architect of a century
+ago.
+
+The streets were less crowded in Djokjakarta than one would expect in a
+city which ranks the fifth in Java; everywhere there were groups of
+really happy-faced children, and mothers looking like mere girls, with
+infants carried usually on the left hip, sometimes in a sling over the
+shoulders. In Java, as in other countries we have visited, there is no
+middle-aged class among the women; they are either young or old,
+although in reality not old. One is considerably handicapped in Java
+unless Dutch or the dialect can be spoken, for, in learning from others
+the true inwardness of things, we are powerless without language,
+however much we might supply certain physical needs by the use of
+pantomime.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MAOS, _February 25th_: At 2 P.M. on the 25th of February, we took the
+train for Maos, in order to break the long railway journey to Batavia.
+The ride of three and a half hours carried us through the same
+diversified landscape of fertile fields or plains of rice, palms, and
+bamboo, with mountains in the distance. One feature, however, deserves
+special mention; it was a country roadway, visible at frequent intervals
+for at least two hours, and lined on each side with tall trees which met
+in many arches. This was evidently a highway or postroad, worthy of
+emulation in other lands, and planned by the Government, a veritable
+blessing to man and beast.
+
+[Illustration: _Designing sarongs in Batavia_]
+
+We passed a comfortable night in Maos at the Government rest house,
+Staats, and left at the early hour of 6 A.M. for a return journey to
+Batavia. We found that when we reached a junction, our train diverged
+over a new route, giving us a different outlook, not unlike our first
+experience, but, it seemed, with finer mountain scenery. First we
+climbed to an altitude of about twenty-two hundred feet; then gradually
+descended, our objective point, Batavia, being at sea-level. Many of the
+high mountains showed cultivation to the very top, while the plains with
+their alternate groups of bamboo, cocoanut, and other palms, were green
+with the new rice crop, the cultivation of this commodity being
+different in Java from that in Burma. Great care is expended on the
+culture of the rice, the tiny plants first being put in small wet
+enclosures; then, when sufficiently developed, they are planted
+separately by the small army of workers, in receptacles made for them,
+and set with the greatest regularity. The workers consist usually of
+women or young girls, and the varied colors of their dress--or
+undress--presented a marked feature. We also saw more coffee cultivated
+than on any previous route, and it is to be regretted that the blight of
+ten years ago has taken this old form of industry from the Javanese.
+Strange as it may seem, we had no Java coffee in Java, the land of the
+celebrated brand; nor did we see anything but a very strong extract of
+coffee (to which was added a large quantity of milk), good and
+convenient, no doubt, but not at all like the real article.
+
+We arrived in Batavia during the afternoon; the hotel wore a homelike
+air, and we passed a restful twenty-four hours with only a drive as the
+regular programme. I have already treated of the marked natural
+advantages of Java, and of the temples; too much cannot be said of this
+"Garden of the East," with its varied landscape of alternating mountains
+and plains, its wealth of trees in myriad forms, its shrubs which in
+their luxuriance seem tree-like, and its tangle of vines and blossoming
+flowers. But it appeared to me as if this holiday side of nature and the
+workaday aspect of the life in Java did not harmonize, and I wondered if
+this condition was caused by Dutch thrift being grafted on to the
+native Javanese temperament, which in its incipiency was simple and
+disinclined to much exertion. Certain it is that the women of Java,
+while apparently contented, look careworn and have deep lines in their
+faces, and the perfect cultivation of the soil,[5] which is largely done
+by women, shows that constant toil must be required of them. Added to
+this is the care of a bevy of little ones--more infants to the square
+yard than I had ever seen before.
+
+[Illustration: _Landscape near Batavia_]
+
+These true children of Nature are seemingly trusting and believing, and
+they ask no better fate than they have. The question obtrudes itself,
+Would life have been easier if the English had not again ceded Java to
+Holland in 1816, after only a five years' tenure? This query regarding
+the Orient in general also comes up: Is it better to leave the peoples
+undisturbed in their ignorance of the broader life and higher
+conditions, or to try to teach them ways foreign to their
+nature,--efforts which might end in failure? This is the problem that
+confronts the philanthropist at every turn, and were it not for the
+possibility of alleviating the condition of womanhood, it might be well
+to abandon all charitable effort. Scientists believe, nevertheless, that
+while it will be a slow, laborious process, much can be done in time;
+it behooves us who have our homes in a country where it is a pleasure to
+live not to turn a deaf ear to appeals like that made by Ramabai, who at
+Pina, near Bombay, is laboring to uplift the condition of child widows
+in India. The great volume of missionary effort is also turned in the
+same direction, and through schools and hospitals the social workers are
+paving the way toward better conditions, in spite of the criticism of
+some who derisively speak of the failure to "save souls," without
+thinking that the first step is to emancipate the body.
+
+When I regard the condition of the women of the Orient, I feel like
+starting an immediate crusade--in Egypt they are slaves or toys; in
+India, bound by the iron laws of custom and caste, sad and dejected; in
+Burma, happy because independent on business and property lines, thanks
+to the English Government; in Ceylon, cheerful but with no recognized
+positions; in Java, children of toil; in Siam, fearless and intrepid in
+temperament, but subject to the conditions of the Orient; in China,
+Manchuria, and Korea, seemingly impassive but bound by traditional
+customs, enforced for centuries; in Japan, bright and winsome, true
+children of Nature, still held by the customs of years, however much the
+barriers are being broken down by the progressive policy of the country.
+
+[Illustration: _Javanese vegetable sellers_]
+
+As tourists remaining but a short time in a place, we did not have the
+pleasure of meeting the higher class of women in any of the countries
+visited, but I saw a Javanese lady in Kyoto who dined several times with
+an English lady; her self-possession and dignity of manner were pleasant
+to note, while her responsive smile showed quick intelligence. She had
+been the wife of an English gentleman for twenty years, but still wore
+the graceful kimono, which showed her good sense. Strange as it may
+seem, the founder of Buddhism, with all his teaching of love to mankind,
+filial duty, kindness to animals, and moral precepts in general, failed
+to extend to women, for whom he is said to have had little respect, any
+encouragement other than the abolishing of the law of caste. But,
+notwithstanding, he had many women followers, some even becoming nuns.
+
+The vehicles of the countries we visited were always individual, and I
+have failed to allude to the peculiar sadoe of Java, a two-wheeled cart
+drawn by a small horse, a seat for four persons being placed over the
+axle. The driver is comfortable, but the passengers with no backs for
+support are tossed about unmercifully. This sadoe has a canopy top; it
+is like the jinrikisha, convenient for a shopping excursion, but I pity
+any one who attempts to take a long drive in it! One morning I went out
+alone, and in turning a street corner I was nearly thrown and my
+packages flew in every direction. I felt that I needed a little
+sympathy, but the imperturbable Dutch coachman(?) never even smiled, so
+I concluded it was an every-day occurrence. A dignitary with attendants
+on each side carrying umbrellas is amusing.
+
+The variety of fruit is greater in Java than anywhere else we had been;
+the bananas, however, while fine to look upon were coarse and had little
+flavor; the pineapples were not as excellent as in Ceylon, nor were the
+mangosteens. A photograph I have shows at least twenty-five varieties of
+fruit; the pisang being universally used, as well as the rambutan,
+durian, pomalo, and papaya. The bread-fruit and jack-fruit grow to
+enormous size.
+
+At luncheon (_riz taffel_) I again noticed a peculiar dish being served.
+This consisted of rice, vegetables of various sorts, four or five kinds
+of meat, and a wonderful mixture of condiments, the variety sometimes
+including twenty, all placed in one receptacle similar to a deep
+soup-plate and evidently enjoyed by the partakers; this was only one
+course of the luncheon!
+
+[Illustration: _A Javanese dignitary and his attendants_]
+
+The Dutch ways of dressing in Java are truly remarkable; for instance,
+sarongs, thin jackets, and almost bare feet were often seen in a
+dining-room. To me the culmination of this unconventionality came later;
+the heat was so oppressive that after luncheon I was glad to enjoy a
+rocker on my gallery, and might have envied the couple on the adjoining
+gallery had I been differently educated. For, strangely, the lady wore
+only a sarong of thin material, a diaphanous jacket, and very low
+sandals; she might almost have posed as a life model. As a foil, her
+husband appeared in pajamas.
+
+At 3 P.M. on February 22nd, we took a train for Priok port, which was
+nine miles distant. The steamer _Orange_ (of the Dutch line) was waiting
+for us, and we were soon sailing for Singapore. Once more we passed the
+equator without one thrill of excitement, and, after thirty-six hours,
+were at Singapore, where we were at once transferred to the steamer
+_Nuen-tung_ (the Chinese for "good luck"), North German Lloyd line,
+bound for Bangkok, Siam, the trip requiring four and a half days. The
+steamer was small and only fairly comfortable; the service was Chinese.
+A pleasant feature of the arrangement was an improvised dining-room on
+the upper deck; here all our meals were served, and most of our time
+passed, the temperature being high enough to prevent the chilling of the
+food, which is an indication that the heat must have been rather
+oppressive when in our staterooms. Hence two-thirds of the passengers
+slept on deck, resulting at about nine in the evening in a veritable
+transformation scene. In India we had escaped insects and reptiles; we
+were very fortunate also in Burma, with only a few singing lizards in
+Ceylon; but on this steamer the cockroaches which appeared at night were
+marvellous in size and blackness. Once I imagined there was one on my
+pillow, and turning on the electric light, found I was mistaken, but
+there were a dozen or more on the washstand and walls--very animated
+specimens, to judge by the way they fled.
+
+From the Strait of Malacca we passed into the China Sea, thence to the
+Gulf of Siam, and lastly to the broad Menam River, with banks showing
+masses of foliage, and with tiny Siamese villages or isolated houses
+built close to the water's edge, supported on piles, with thatched roofs
+and sides.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BANGKOK, _March 4th_: Arriving at Bangkok, we took the steamer launch
+for the Oriental Hotel, which is situated on the river-bank. The canals
+leading out of the river reminded us of Batavia. A drive in the
+afternoon of our arrival, accompanied by the Rev. Mr.----, a medical
+missionary, as a non-professional guide, was a new experience and an
+agreeable one, for during the afternoon and evening we learned many
+things about the King that a native guide would not have told us. The
+report showed the King to be progressive in his tendencies; as the
+result of several trips to Europe, he has introduced railways,
+telegraph and modern business appliances, and is making a great effort
+to beautify the city and to improve sanitary conditions, having employed
+French engineers for that purpose.
+
+[Illustration: _The King of Siam_]
+
+I think it might be well to give a slight historical background in order
+the better to understand the conditions of Siam. It is thought that the
+aborigines of Siam were driven out by Laos tribes from the North and
+that they then adopted the name Thai as a sign of victory, Siam
+signifying progress.
+
+In 1350, Ayuthia, a few miles north of Bangkok, became the capital; for
+three centuries Siam was prosperous and opened trade relations with
+China. There were, however, many raids and much fighting until 1536,
+when the King was taken prisoner.
+
+The Portuguese commenced trading with Siam early in the sixteenth
+century, and soon after gave the Siamese military aid against their
+border foes, the troops coming from Goa. As a reward for their services
+they were offered land on which to settle. Later, the soldiers married
+Siamese women and became domesticated. As they had brought their
+Catholic priests with them, conversion of the natives followed, and some
+of the old settlements retain their Christian character to this day.
+
+A few years after the Portuguese advent, the Dutch came, but the
+English did not arrive until 1620, and during the latter part of the
+seventeenth century the three nations were seeking trade relations.
+Great toleration and friendliness to other countries seemed to have been
+practiced even in that early day; French missionaries were also
+welcomed. Soon after, a Siamese embassy left with presents for King
+Louis of France, but they were shipwrecked on the way. Later, another
+embassy went to Versailles, and Louis XIV, much flattered, sent a return
+embassy, which was accorded a great reception in Lopburi, where a treaty
+was signed in 1605, sanctioning the presence of French missionaries.
+There were several subsequent upheavals at Ayuthia, and in 1767 the city
+fell under the strong Burman attack; thus ended the third dynasty of
+Siamese kings. The Burmans, however, were soon conquered, and the
+capital was moved to Bangkok. In the middle of the nineteenth century,
+treaties were made with Great Britain and the other important powers,
+while Cambodia was ceded to France.
+
+The present monarch, Chulalongkorn, ascended the throne in 1868, and has
+since governed the country consistently and well. In May, 1874, a
+political constitution was adopted. The King began his reign by
+decreeing that slavery be abolished, and he instituted several other
+reforms. For many years troublous times with France ensued; this
+finally aroused the indignation of England, and in 1896 an Anglo-French
+agreement was signed in London, by which both countries guaranteed to
+maintain the integrity of the Menam valley.
+
+Siam has during the past few years made rapid progress in the adoption
+of Western ways and Western ideals, thanks to the progressive King, and
+this is attracting visitors from Europe and America more and more. The
+country's position has kept it rather isolated; it is out of the beaten
+track, and is situated between the great commercial ports of Singapore
+and Hong-Kong. Until recently it could not be reached by any passenger
+steamship lines. One's impression of the kingdom must be formed largely
+from Bangkok, as the mountain districts offer no facilities for the
+comfort of visitors, being a decided contrast to Ceylon, Burma, and Java
+in this respect.
+
+The area of Siam is about two hundred thousand square miles, and the
+population is over six million,--mostly native, for there are not over
+twenty thousand representatives of other powers in the kingdom, nor are
+there more than two thousand Europeans.
+
+Bangkok, like Rangoon, has enormous exports of rice, teak, and many
+other commodities; there are large rice factories, and we saw the
+elephants dragging logs to the river, as in Rangoon, whence they are
+brought on rafts to the immense sawmills. Unfortunately, a shallow bar
+at the mouth of the Menam River prevents the passage of large vessels.
+Therefore much of the cargo has to be carried to Koh-si-Chang, outside
+the bar, a distance of fifty miles. Koh-si-Chang is quite a favorite
+resort for the Europeans, Aughin on the coast being another. In the
+latter place there is a large sanitarium.
+
+The revenue of Siam has been mostly derived from the so-termed gambling
+and opium farms. The gambling-houses were formerly great sights in the
+country, but, according to the authority of a gentleman, gambling has
+now been almost entirely abolished in the kingdom, through the strenuous
+efforts of the King. He, however, has been unable to effect this reform
+in Bangkok. For some time Siam has had a proposal before the powers
+which import goods to the effect that the Government be allowed an
+import duty of two per cent, which would furnish the needed revenue for
+State expenses and thus enable the Government to abolish gambling in
+Bangkok altogether. Thus far, the King's proposition has not been
+accepted, showing that the interest of foreign powers controls affairs
+in Siam as well as in other more civilized countries.
+
+We visited several places of interest that first afternoon with Dr.
+W---- as an excellent guide, going first to the Chinese quarter, and
+then taking a general drive. We passed many attractive points,
+particularly in the direction of the new section of the city, of which
+Dusit Park is the centre. This is laid out in the fashion of a park in a
+European capital, having walks, masses of foliage, and conventional
+features in the arrangement of flowers and shrubs. What with the
+tropical growth, it will soon excel any model the King may have seen in
+his European tour.
+
+A new palace is situated near the park, and as soon as this was begun, a
+real-estate development was started around it; the jungle disappeared,
+roads were laid out, and buildings sprang up. Dusit Park is now the
+scene of many activities, and a fancy fair is held there every year,
+with a view to secure funds for the building of the new Wat, or temple,
+which is adjacent, the old one showing signs of decadence.
+
+Buddhism is the State religion, and the King is an ardent devotee; new
+Wats are in constant process of erection, and those in existence are
+lavishly decorated. The new temple alluded to shows European influence
+in its arrangement, having a cloister around a square court in the rear.
+Two other temples were visited, and a further drive taken. On our return
+we went to the place of places in Bangkok, thoroughly Chinese in
+character,--a combination of gambling-den, chop-house, and theatre,
+covering in space about a block. The gambling-den was dimly lighted, and
+on the floor in a large circle were seated men and women, either
+playing the game of fan-tan or anxiously awaiting their turn. I did not
+understand the game, but the haggard expressions and restless attitudes
+around me told a tale of dissipation and ruin. We remained only a few
+moments, then passed into the chop-house, which was crowded and where
+eatables of the Chinese type were _en évidence_ in every direction. The
+theatre was not yet open, but it was spacious, with a large stage. This
+compound is only one of several, and while mainly patronized by Chinese,
+many Siamese and people of other nationalities are drawn in. Tales
+similar to those heard in Monte Carlo could be related. It is to be
+hoped that erelong the King will bring about some measure to abolish
+this standing menace to the morals of the community.
+
+A pleasant dinner and much discussion followed. We learned that there
+were fine hospitals and schools under different missionary auspices, Dr.
+W---- being Presbyterian. To prove the success of the so-called
+Christian effort, he stated that the King gave every encouragement to
+all denominations, and also donated money to aid in building churches,
+feeling that their influence in the country was good.
+
+[Illustration: _In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok_]
+
+The Roman Catholics on account of their priority have a wide field in
+Siam; they have erected about sixty churches in the kingdom. But there
+are, nevertheless, several Protestant churches of different
+denominations in Bangkok and in the interior. A special permit is
+necessary before visiting Wang Chang, the royal palace, a point of much
+interest. The walls around the building enclose a wide area, including
+the old mint and various Government departments. Just in the rear of the
+Department of the Interior, the sacred white elephants are to be found,
+five in number. They are, however, at present pale gray (whatever they
+may have been in the past), which detracts somewhat from the validity of
+the previous statement. Each animal has a house to himself, is greatly
+petted, and it is expected that the elephants will be treated by
+visitors to bananas, and the attendants to cigarettes.
+
+Approaching the palace, the Royal Halls of Audience are the most
+striking feature. The building in which they are to be found is very
+large and of a semi-classic style of architecture, the Italian and
+Siamese being blended. These halls are the only portions of the palace
+to which visitors are admitted. Fronting this building on the opposite
+side of a half square stand several small buildings of a pleasing style.
+These contain antique articles, such as boats, bronze cannon, and other
+relics in bronze.
+
+One of the most striking features in this palace enclosure is Prakeo,
+the royal temple. Its entrance is unique, while the Chinese "Devil
+Protectors" at each side are grotesque. The temple also contains the
+celebrated emerald Buddha, a figure, eighteen inches high, made from the
+largest emerald known in the world. There is, moreover, an exquisite
+small gold Buddha in a glass case, besides many rare vases and other
+articles with, of course, the usual Buddhas in the shrine. Next to the
+palace is a recreation ground, called Premane, where golf is played. The
+race track, however, has been removed to Sapatoom. A very fine Wat Poh
+near the palace contains an immense sleeping Buddha and many other
+interesting features, one of which is a small painted dado illustrating
+the legend of Rama.
+
+The royal museum, Wang Nah, is near the royal palace. It is full to
+repletion with objects of interest, especially to the ethnologist and to
+the archæologist. Some of the treasures are almost beyond price in
+value, but they are not very well displayed. The galleries are open to
+the public, free of charge, and the visitors' book is quite interesting,
+as it contains the signatures of a number of royalties and celebrities.
+Several of the attendants spoke excellent English and were most
+courteous in their explanations.
+
+[Illustration: _Entrance to Prakeo, the Royal Temple_]
+
+Fronting the royal palace are the artillery and royal body-guard
+barracks and the Hall of the Ambassadors, where distinguished visitors
+are entertained during their stay. Not far distant are the royal
+Courts of Justice, a Doric building, whose interior is arranged in
+European style. The State barges are kept near the museum and across the
+river. Some of them are very large and have room for one hundred rowers,
+whilst most of them are very ancient. These boats are used in the State
+functions on the river. Almost directly opposite the palace is a naval
+dockyard. It is not large compared with those of Europe and America, but
+a great variety of work is carried on. There are large machine shops and
+spacious quarters for officers and marines, a graving dock capable of
+accommodating vessels of large size, and an ice factory which supplies
+the navy and the royal palace. There is also a fine Royal Military
+College in Siam. Other Government departments show the great progress of
+the country, particularly when it is remembered that fifty years ago
+Bangkok had no facilities whatsoever.
+
+In the afternoon we took a steam launch to explore different canals. The
+first we visited in order to acquaint ourselves with the traffic and
+with various kinds of boats, some being loaded at warehouses along the
+way. The buildings were very unusual, as were the sights on the water.
+We then went on the river Menam, to visit certain temples. Among these
+were Wat Saket, which stands on the summit of an artificial hill and
+commands a fine view; and Wat Kanayat, where there was a collection of
+porcelain-trimmed temples and pagodas. We attended a short, intoned
+Buddhist service in one of the temples. In another, Wat Cheng, we had
+our fortunes told in the following manner: we each drew from a vase a
+long, narrow slip of paper with a number on it, then we proceeded to a
+priest, robed in yellow silk, presented our number, paid a fee, and in
+return received a pink paper containing a great many hieroglyphics,
+which our guide was able to interpret. Each fortune was rather peculiar
+and diversified in details. We, however, did not attach any importance
+to what was told us.
+
+The roofs of some of the Wats are very handsome, the parti-colored tiles
+of which they are composed adding to their effect, whilst the pointed
+upturned gables, a feature peculiar to Siamese architecture, also added
+in no small degree to their picturesqueness.
+
+All the principal Wats are accessible to visitors, but it is necessary
+to have with you a guide who can explain the different features.
+Sometimes the priests have a knowledge of English. Many of the Wats are
+suffering greatly from the ravages of time, and some are almost ruined.
+Of course this applies to the more remote temples, those in the vicinity
+of the palace being beautifully cared for. The King and other members of
+the royal family spend vast sums upon the temples; nobles and wealthy
+Siamese likewise contribute largely to the funds, but all their efforts
+are not sufficient to keep the numberless places in proper condition.
+
+[Illustration: _The Klong Canal at Bangkok_]
+
+The King, who is now the sole reigning Buddhist monarch, takes the
+greatest interest in the maintenance of his faith and everything
+belonging to it. He is an ardent Pali scholar, and has established a
+college for the study of that ancient language. Nearly every State
+function which takes place within the palace walls is associated with
+some religious service, and the Buddhist faith seems to be deeply rooted
+in the heart of the Siamese people. The sacred books used in the temples
+are of palm-leaf, similar in style to those seen in Burma; a large
+number of women are employed in a factory for their manufacture, while
+many men are also there for the purpose of engraving characters on the
+palm-leaf with a set of special implements.
+
+It had been a perfect afternoon, and the shores of the broad river Menam
+(meaning "Mother of Waters") were more than usually interesting on
+account of the novel architectural display, temples alternating with
+buildings of various descriptions, most of them gleaming white in the
+sun. We made a detour into the Klong Canal, which led out of the river
+some miles from our starting-point. Soon we had an entirely different
+type of scenery, similar to the jungle; dense vegetation came quite to
+the edge of the canal. In places there would be two, three, or even more
+Siamese houses built high on piles, with thatched roofs and sides and an
+open front, the home life of the inmates being distinctly seen through
+the open front. Of course our launch served to collect all the curious
+in groups, from infants to grandparents. Ever and anon tiny boats passed
+us, the rowers singing or twanging some kind of an instrument with that
+happy unconsciousness of responsibility which seems to characterize the
+Siamese, reminding one of the days in Rangoon.
+
+We came at last to a point where navigation was impeded because of a
+large vessel aground, and after skilful manoeuvring and some minutes'
+delay, our launch proceeded on the homeward way. Night was upon us
+before we left the canal, and as the twilight faded, the gleaming of the
+lights in the little homes put a finishing touch to the picture. Once on
+the broad river, the shore effect was more wonderful than by day, and we
+lost all note of time until we were told at the hotel landing that it
+was half-past seven o'clock.
+
+The following morning we left, at half-past six, for an excursion by
+rail and river to the old capital, Ayuthia. The ride of three hours in a
+car presented no special features. But we then took a steam launch and
+proceeded some miles farther in order to visit the ruins of the old
+palace and the elephants' kraal. Skirting in and out, we saw about three
+miles of houseboats on sampans. This was a most interesting spectacle,
+all kinds of traffic being carried on, some space aboard being reserved
+for the family. There were boats for the sale of flowers and vegetables,
+others for household commodities, and some had crockery and glass and
+baskets. We then visited two temples. The ruins cover an immense space
+of ground and are a fine field for archæologists, but we had no means of
+classifying them and our guide was not scientific. Many of the most
+interesting relics are surrounded by a dense jungle which makes them
+difficult of access, but one receives a certain impression of the
+ancient grandeur of the place.
+
+Tradition states that the custom of wearing the hair short by Siamese
+women dates from the days when Ayuthia was a capital. It is said that
+during one of the political invasions by the Burmans most of the men
+were absent in the harvest fields. The women accordingly cut their hair,
+took bows and arrows and spears, and manned the city walls. The Burmans,
+thinking they were men, were astonished at finding such a strong
+garrison and retired, much discomfited. It is also said that the women
+then adopted the same dress as the men, the panung, a garment something
+like the sarong but drawn up in the middle, front and back. The cutting
+of the hair and the peculiar garb make it difficult to tell the Siamese
+women from the men. The style is distinctive with the women, as all of
+the surrounding people--the Burmans, Laos, and Malays--wear the sarong.
+
+A walk of ten minutes from Wang Chang brought us to the famous
+elephants' kraal, or enclosure, into which the elephants are driven to
+be captured and tamed. This is a massive structure of teak logs, with a
+kind of V-shaped passage leading to it. When a hunt is to occur, the
+places frequented by the elephants are noted weeks beforehand, and they
+are gradually surrounded by some hundreds of men mounted upon trained
+elephants and also afoot, the elephants being gradually driven towards
+the entrance of the kraal. Within, there is an exciting scene, as the
+ponderous, awkward animals find themselves pressed onwards _en masse_
+through the massive gate into the enclosure. Once inside, they are
+dexterously captured by long leg ropes, whilst their struggles are kept
+from assuming dangerous proportions by trained elephants which range up
+alongside of them and aid their masters in every possible way,
+apparently taking quite a delight in the task. These hunts occur at
+regular intervals, and are generally attended by a large number of
+foreign visitors. Accidents, even deaths, sometimes happen, but these
+are not frequent. We regretted we were not in Siam at the proper season
+to witness such a scene.
+
+[Illustration: _The famous Elephants' Kraal_]
+
+After a picnic luncheon, we proceeded down the river, stopping at
+different points to visit temples of varying interest; one was
+particularly noteworthy, as it contained a very large Buddha in the back
+of the temple and a row of brass Buddhas around three of its sides, some
+of them in fine repoussé work. At Ban Pa In we left the launch to take
+the train. Here the King has two palaces.
+
+Ban Pa In is on an island in the Menam River. One handsome palace is in
+the European style, and another is of a pure Chinese pattern. There is a
+modern temple of Gothic style, built fifteen years ago. Near the palace
+a tower affords a fine view.
+
+We arrived at Bangkok late in the afternoon, feeling well pleased with
+our day's excursion.
+
+Fifty years ago Bangkok had none of the public buildings to be seen
+to-day,--perhaps a mile of good road and streets in only fair condition;
+now there are numerous drives and perfect communication to every point
+of the city. There are twelve miles of electric railway line, soon to be
+extended, while leading out from Bangkok are hundreds of miles of
+well-equipped railways. Jinrikishas are used in Bangkok, but with
+foreigners carriages are preferred. The native street, called Sampeng,
+is really a Chinese-Siamese combination, and might be termed a bazar on
+the order of those visited in previous cities. The streets, filled with
+strong odors, are small lanes running parallel with the river, and to me
+were less interesting than previous bazars, the venders seeming to be
+apathetic and having less variety of goods. This impression may,
+however, have been due to the midday hour, for the natives,
+understanding the climate, are only alert during the mornings and
+evenings. The season may also have lessened the dash and excitement of
+the street. We were told there were quite as many tribes and
+nationalities represented in Bangkok as in Singapore, and such a mixture
+usually means novelty. The dress and undress in Siam afforded variety,
+the men and women nearly alike, for, as stated in the description in
+connection with Ayuthia, the women have short hair and wear the panung
+precisely like the men.
+
+The guides in Siam are not very competent, and could give us only
+ordinary information, so there was little for us to do but to speculate
+on certain points.
+
+[Illustration: _Tower of Royal Palace at Ban-Pa-In_]
+
+There are several interesting towns which are within a few hours'
+railway communication with Bangkok, but we could only read of them, as
+none of them had hotels or even rest houses for the convenience of
+tourists. This state of things will be remedied as soon as it is
+realized that the outside world is interested in this far-away kingdom,
+the first tourist party having visited Siam only two years ago. We were
+hampered before reaching this country by the lack of a guide-book (as we
+had been in Java), Murray's enlightening knowledge having extended only
+through India, Burma, and Ceylon; but after our arrival in Bangkok we
+found some local guide-books, from which we learned of the towns alluded
+to.
+
+Petchaburi seemed one of the most interesting on account of the
+wonderful caves and temples, a description of which I will give in
+brief, in order to prove that Siam, like the other countries previously
+visited, has unusual attractions along these lines. The railway to
+Petchaburi was opened in 1902, and the journey takes five and a half
+hours from Bangkok. It is an old historic town of much importance and
+the centre of a very populous district. It is picturesquely situated on
+both banks of the stream, curving seaward at the foot of some wooded
+hills. One of the hills is crowned with the royal palace and another
+with a handsome temple. The palace is a magnificent edifice and commands
+wide views on all sides, the sea being clearly seen from the
+observatory. The hill on which is situated the temple, and its
+companion, are known as Kow Wang.
+
+Descending a well-constructed, if somewhat precipitous, staircase for
+what must be fully a hundred feet, we find ourselves in a cave from
+which a very spacious archway leads into a huge vaulted chamber. The
+first impression is one of acute astonishment, by no means lessened,
+even after one becomes accustomed to the dim light inside. By rough
+calculation the cave is about two hundred yards long by one hundred
+wide. The floor is paved throughout with tiles, and at every turn there
+is an image of Buddha. At one end there is a statue fully fifteen feet
+high in a niche fronting the entrance, and near by is one twelve feet
+high. In a wide passage, leading to another extensive cave, is a statue
+of the sleeping Buddha, apparently about fifteen feet long, and in the
+semi-gloom which surrounds him, suggestive of eternal calm and peace. In
+this cave are more Buddhas, sitting, standing, and reclining.
+
+Thence, on through a somewhat low and dark tunnel, we go to yet another
+cave, from which a short passage leads upward to what was the original
+dark entrance. This is now impassable, as the stairs have collapsed.
+Many curious stalactites are in clusters, some like inverted lilies and
+others like canopies or umbrellas; they are of all sizes, ranging from a
+few inches to several feet in diameter and some are tinted in various
+shades. The caves are well worth visiting, and a view of them will
+adequately repay the time and expense of the journey from Bangkok. In
+the centre of the town and near a quaint wooden bridge stands Wat
+Mahathal, conspicuous by reason of its unfinished brick tower, on the
+summit of which a couple of trees are growing; a quadrangle surrounding
+this contains one hundred and ninety-five images of Buddha, which are of
+interest if only because of the different expressions of their
+countenances.
+
+[Illustration: _A Siamese girl_]
+
+The American Presbyterian Mission has a commodious hospital, pleasantly
+situated on the river bank, which enjoys a high reputation among the
+natives. There are two distinct tribes of Laos inhabiting this district.
+The women, on account of their peculiar headgear and jackets of dark
+cloth and short sarong, are interesting. The cultivation of rice is the
+prevailing industry in this district.
+
+Judging by the number of Siamese feasts and festivals there are in the
+calendar, a holiday must always be in order. The Siamese official year
+opens April 1st, and about that time, a date regulated by the moon, the
+New Year holiday occurs. This is not celebrated quite as vigorously as
+it formerly was, but the country people make it the occasion for
+performing some great deed of merit, and this proves a time of harvest
+for the priests. Every one wears his best clothes, a special kind of
+cake is served, and the temples are thronged. Gambling laws are set
+aside, and in every house may be seen some game of chance. On the
+evening of the second day, for the festival continues through a period
+of three, all the guns along the palace walls are fired thirty-six
+times.
+
+The Astronomical New Year soon follows, when the images of Buddha are
+sprinkled with water, while the priests hold a festival at the royal
+palace. Priests and aged people are presented with gifts.
+
+When the sixth Siamese moon is at its full, the birth, inspiration, and
+death of the Lord Buddha are observed with great veneration; good deeds
+prompt every one, alms are given to the poor, and fine robes sent to the
+priests.
+
+Twice a year the ceremonial drinking of the water of allegiance takes
+place at the royal palace. The princes, nobles, and principal Government
+officials assemble, drink, and sprinkle their foreheads with water in
+which various weapons have been dipped. Appropriate religious services
+are also held. The principal European officials also conform to this
+custom, which usually occurs in the months of March, April, and
+September.
+
+[Illustration: _A royal barge at Bangkok_]
+
+The ploughing ceremony takes place in May and marks the beginning of the
+planting season. The King is represented by the Minister of Agriculture,
+who goes with a procession to the selected spot, and, after some
+religious service, takes hold of a plough which is drawn by two gayly
+bedecked oxen. After scratching the ground for about an hour, four
+ladies of the royal household, attired in ancient costumes, sow various
+kinds of seed carried in gilded baskets. The grain thus scattered is
+considered sacred, and there is a wild scramble for it at the close.
+Many signs and symbols are attached to various parts of the ceremony,
+which usually takes place at Dusit Park.
+
+A swinging festival is very unique and interesting, but is quite
+complicated and has to be seen to be understood. The swing is very high
+and I think is stationary.
+
+Another ceremony is the giving of priests' robes. This lasts a month,
+and the King or his deputies visit every Wat in the kingdom. At this
+time the boat racing at the Pakman Wat occurs, and the royal barge and
+State boats are all brought out for the occasion. At another festival,
+the Loy Krathong (all these celebrations have their Siamese names), the
+river Menam and the canals present a gala appearance, being dotted at
+night with thousands of miniature ships, rafts, and boats, each
+brilliantly lighted and bearing offerings to the goddess of water. This
+festival occurs in October and November.
+
+But the greatest occasion of the year is the King's birthday, September
+20th, the three following days being included in the festival.
+Everywhere the city is a blaze of red and white bunting, and at night it
+is brilliant with myriad lights, presenting a fairylike scene. About
+this time the Foreign Office gives its annual ball, a brilliant occasion
+for which invitations are in great demand.
+
+Siamese ceremonies are quite as peculiar as their feasts. The habit of
+cutting the long tuft of hair, which is left on children's heads until
+they have attained their growth, is very striking, and at the royal
+palace very elaborate preparations are made, which include religious
+ceremonies and the use of a golden jewelled instrument resembling
+shears.
+
+In Siam cremation is the general way of disposing of the dead. Among the
+wealthy classes the body is embalmed and kept sometimes three years
+before the ceremony, which is conducted with great pomp and on a very
+expensive plan, gifts being distributed among all the attendant friends
+and sums of money given to the priests and to the poor. The Chinese, of
+which there are large numbers, are usually buried, but in case of a
+mixed marriage the children are cremated.
+
+There are many superstitions. A peculiar one in court circles is the
+wearing of a different-colored panung each day of the week,--on Sunday,
+red; Monday, cream; Tuesday, purple; and so on,--for good luck. Another
+is the use of buttons adorned with representations of animals,
+symbolical of the year in which certain persons are born,--this also for
+good luck. The tendency naturally leads to great respect being shown to
+fortune-tellers. The youth of Siam are, however, it is said, outgrowing
+this superstitious condition.
+
+One time-honored custom is, however, in greater vogue than ever, and
+that is massage, which is employed by all classes.
+
+While the foreign residents of Bangkok are not large in number, they
+have made their impress felt, and in no way more markedly than in the
+amusements which they have inaugurated. There are sixteen organizations,
+many of them recreation clubs for golf, tennis, and cricket, but there
+are also a literary club, a dramatic club, a Philharmonic Society, and a
+gymnasium. Bangkok has a good library, containing books of travel,
+reference, and fiction.
+
+Racing is popular and is generally attended by the King, who gives gold
+cups for prizes. Hunting is in great favor, for game can be found near
+Bangkok, and at not a remote distance lurk the rhinoceros, buffalo,
+tiger, leopard, deer, antelope, hare, and crocodile. Elephants abound,
+but may not be shot.
+
+Bangkok, as a city, becomes distinctively individual as one learns more
+of it; for instance, the telegraph and the telephone lines are
+controlled by the postal department and are working satisfactorily under
+this régime. As early as 1902, important fiscal changes were introduced:
+one was the closing of the mints to free silver, and the other an
+issuance of paper currency notes. The first meant the practical adoption
+of a gold standard. I cite these examples as showing still further
+progressive methods.
+
+There are holiday resorts on the east coast of the gulf, where Bangkok
+residents can retire for a change of air. These have been mentioned.
+There are also remoter places of great interest farther in the interior
+and in the mountains, which will soon be available for travellers.
+
+Rathburi is an old walled town of importance. Near here, the French
+Catholic priests have a mission house and seminary. The American
+Presbyterian Mission owns a fine hospital, and two missionary families
+are stationed here.
+
+Phrapatoon is the seat of a large pagoda which is visible for many miles
+around. It was formerly gilded and was built in style similar to the
+pagodas seen in Burma.
+
+With all the available information about the kingdom of Siam, one cannot
+but feel that it has a future full of possibilities; certain it is that
+the measures already inaugurated by the King are made for the welfare of
+his people.
+
+The tropical growth of Siam impressed us only slightly, as we had just
+come from Java, "the garden of the earth." Otherwise we should have been
+enthusiastic over the beauty of the landscape and the luxurious growth
+of trees and plants.
+
+There was no special programme on our last morning in Bangkok, and so I
+wandered around for final impressions and for photographs. I had an
+amusing little talk with what proved to be the court photographer. Among
+other notables of the realm, he showed me a picture of the Crown Prince,
+whereupon I innocently asked him how many sons there were. He replied,
+"Sixty-seven," and that he had taken all their photographs. The reply
+was rather startling, and I impulsively asked, "And how many daughters?"
+He looked blank and admitted that he did not know. Of course I
+understood that the family relations of the King were modelled on
+strictly Oriental lines, and that he had three legal wives, the number
+prescribed by law; but I was unprepared for a statement that showed a
+daughter in a royal household to be such a nonentity as the above
+implied.
+
+When I visited the market, I saw an unlimited number of fruits as well
+as vegetables; cocoanuts, plantains, bananas, durians, pineapples,
+bread-fruit, jack-fruit, dates, almonds, pomaloes, mangoes (fifty
+varieties), mangosteens, custard apples, limes, oranges, tamarinds,
+figs, and papayas, all are to be found here in their proper season. I
+did not even know the names of some, but never again do I hope to see
+such a display.
+
+There were fewer flowers than I had been led to expect, but the flora of
+Siam is said to be particularly rich in unusual varieties of orchids,
+which are found flourishing abundantly even in the jungles, and a visit
+would well repay a collector. A person can find a rich field in Siam
+along many lines of investigation.
+
+We left Bangkok in the afternoon on the steamer _Nuen-tung_ for a five
+days' return trip to Singapore. I have already alluded to the "sand bar"
+which is an obstacle to navigation; hence it is that the heavy freight
+vessels anchor fifty miles distant at Koh-si-Chang, but I learned later
+that this obstacle could have been removed by dredging, had not the
+authorities declined to take any action, as the "bar" furnished a safe
+means of defence should war ever occur.
+
+We saw various pagodas as we advanced; the most noted example was in the
+village of Pakman. As viewed through masses of foliage, it reminded us
+of the trip on the Irrawaddy River in Burma. A cargo of rice was taken
+on at Koh-si-Chang, and we did not leave there until eleven, the day
+following. A group of islands similarly called was a feature of the
+trip. It was cooler when we entered the Gulf of Siam, and the China
+Sea was favorably smooth. The conditions of the steamer were unchanged,
+but they had grown familiar to us, and even the cockroaches no longer
+intimidated me.
+
+[Illustration: _The collier quay at Singapore_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SINGAPORE: We arrived at Singapore early in the morning, and for a third
+time viewed the shores; on this trip we went to the Raffles Hotel for a
+brief sojourn. The place is airy, capacious, and semi-Oriental, and
+reminded us of Colombo, as did the temperature, for although but two
+degrees from the equator, the air was like June at home, and without any
+of the chill in the evening that we sometimes experience; so it was a
+great pleasure to sit out in the corridor-like veranda and listen to the
+music. It was all so contrary to our expectations, for we had been told
+fearful tales about heat, insects, and general discomfort on the Malay
+Peninsula, or on what they term the "Straits Settlements."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+JOHORE: To commence with, we devoted the first afternoon to an excursion
+to Johore, the capital of an independent Malay province, whose Sultan
+reigns with pomp and ceremony. After a railway ride, we took the ferry
+across the river, where a scene of loveliness awaited us. The city is
+unpretentious in appearance, but our afternoon excursion revealed to us
+a varied landscape with a tropical growth. We visited a plantation
+where india rubber, one of the chief articles of export, is cultivated;
+then a large Mohammedan mosque, finely located on an eminence. The tiger
+house on this particular day held but one inmate, who showed no desire
+to devour us.
+
+The grounds surrounding the palace are as spacious and as well cared for
+as a botanical garden, with the brilliant flowers, blossoming trees, and
+a great number of red sealing-wax palms. The palace is luxuriantly
+embowered in vines and trees. Johore is a famous gambling-place, but the
+"parlors" were deserted on this afternoon, and we could see only the
+fine furnishings in carved teakwood.
+
+The stay in Johore ended with tea at a hotel. Here we saw the real
+Sultan entertaining a party of Europeans. He looked young and was
+dressed in an immaculate English style, quite unlike the striped calico
+suits displayed by royalty at Jeypore, India. He came in a French
+automobile, and is said to pass half his time in Singapore, being fond
+of society. We arrived in Singapore for dinner, and during the evening a
+delightful surprise awaited me in the appearance of two Milwaukee
+friends.
+
+[Illustration: _The Sultan's Palace at Johore_]
+
+The following day much ground was covered, for, by invitation of
+Cincinnati friends, I took a motor ride of about forty miles amidst
+undreamed-of beauty, both near the city and in the surrounding
+country. There were streets lined with villas whose gardens were full of
+a luxuriant growth of shrubs and flowers; some of them had the quaintest
+high-arched gateways, with coats of arms and animals carved in stone on
+each side of the entrance. The Botanical Gardens were very interesting,
+as was also the park, miles from the city, and laid out around the
+reservoir, which furnishes all the water supply. We went on and on until
+we reached the "Gap," where a mountain view awaited us. We visited the
+shops and bazars before luncheon, and in the afternoon all of us
+explored the native Malay quarter. The dress of the women was unlike any
+other seen in the Orient. The Chinese seemed to be the real residents,
+for everywhere they prevailed in large numbers.
+
+In whatever direction we went, new features revealed themselves, and we
+commended the wisdom of Sir Stamford Raffles in founding this island
+city with its wonderful harbor, where shipping from almost all parts of
+the world congregates, making the active sights at the quay at once
+novel and business-like. Indians, Sikhs, Malays, and other nationalities
+are represented, but the Chinese perform all the menial labor required.
+
+The coolie is a character,--patient, hard-working, uncomplaining,
+supplying a demand throughout the Orient, made necessary, as we have
+seen, by the indolence of the Burmese and of the Malays, to mention only
+two examples.
+
+Singapore is very gay in the season, and a centre for the wealth of the
+Far East; indeed, sultans and nabobs consider it a veritable Paris.
+
+The last morning of our stay, I went around in a jinrikisha, and my man
+was as fleet as a horse. I had an experience trying to find so simple an
+article as a paper of pins, visiting shop after shop. Evidently they
+have not learned the ways of the American department store!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+HONG-KONG: We sailed in the late afternoon on the steamer _Moltke_ for a
+five days' voyage to Hong-Kong, with a feeling that we had experienced
+no discomfort but much pleasure in the seemingly maligned city of
+Singapore.
+
+We passed the Strait of Malacca without any untoward excitement, and we
+steamed along pleasantly with a group of passengers who looked well-bred
+and agreeable; as time went on, our first impression of them was
+corroborated. A delightful feature aboard was music every evening in the
+salon, mostly singing. There was a service on Sunday, both for the
+first-class and second-class passengers. We soon entered the China Sea,
+which was to be our sole waterway to Hong-Kong, fifteen hundred miles
+distant, or rather to the Straits of Formosa, which guard the China
+Sea on the north, as the Strait of Malacca does on the south. We reached
+port on the morning of March 20th, and the approach--past many islands,
+along the fine harbor, with its high rocky shores, towering mountains in
+the background, and a terraced city in the foreground--gave us a new
+sensation. We landed at Kowloon and were taken across to Hong-Kong
+(which, properly and legally speaking, is Victoria).
+
+[Illustration: _A general view of Hong-Kong_]
+
+[Illustration: _The public gardens in Hong-Kong_]
+
+Fronting the landing is a long street of fine stone business houses,
+which extend tier after tier from the shore and in a way represent the
+city's commercial importance.
+
+The Hong-Kong Hotel is situated in the business centre; although under
+English management, the service was entirely Chinese, and at luncheon we
+were confronted by an array of waiters with braids around their heads
+and wearing long blue garments made like aprons; the ensemble was indeed
+most depressing. The menu presented a curious feature, the courses being
+numbered, and you were expected to point to the number, but woe to any
+one who wished an egg boiled four minutes or a piece of rare roast!
+
+Hong-Kong is on the north shore of the island, and dampness prevails
+even when it does not rain (there is an unusual amount of rain); in
+consequence, great care has to be observed by the residents, both of
+their homes and clothing. Yet, notwithstanding this and other
+disabilities, the English have made the island "blossom like a rose."
+Engineering enterprise has converted the mountain-side into an
+attractive residence centre. A railway leading to the Peak (the highest
+point in the landscape) is not only a convenience, but a pleasure on
+account of the magnificent view afforded along the ascent. A little
+lower is an attractive Peak Hotel, which is popular with residents. At
+every point on the heights there are features to impress one, as we
+found the afternoon of our arrival, when we took jinrikishas to visit
+Happy Valley, where are located the public garden and the Protestant
+cemetery, which is also laid out like a park. The Catholic cemetery is
+near by and has the same general features. Happy Valley is also the
+scene for various sports, such as golf, tennis, croquet, and racing, in
+which Hong-Kong abounds.
+
+The afternoon of our visit, we walked about to various points, enjoying
+the views, and commending the perfection which had been wrought since
+1842, when China ceded the island to Great Britain. Realizing that
+Hong-Kong was destined to be a world port, England some years since
+leased a portion of the mainland from China for further harbor
+facilities. This strip extends back thirty miles and is held for a
+term of ninety-nine years. The city retains its former name, Kowloon,
+but its business facilities are all under English management. The miles
+of docks, warehouses, shipyards, and machine shops are another proof of
+the wisdom and forethought with which Great Britain carries out her
+plans for colonizing alien places.
+
+[Illustration: _A typical street in a Chinese city_]
+
+Hong-Kong was destined to be our headquarters for nearly two weeks; it
+is a convenient point from which to make excursions. On the first Sunday
+morning I attended service at the English Cathedral; the building is on
+the heights, surrounded by a well-kept close and overlooking a fine
+residence portion of the city. I was conveyed to church in a sedan chair
+on account of the steep ascent. During our excursion to the Peak, we
+first took a railway chair, then a sedan chair; leaving that, we had a
+long climb before we reached the summit, where there is a flagstaff.
+What a view was before us--mountains in the distance, the harbor and the
+islands, shipping of all kinds, and roofs of every description!
+Descending, we had tea at the Peak Hotel. Another afternoon we went in a
+launch to Kowloon. We took a jinrikisha for a general exploration of the
+old Chinese city, and aside from what has been indicated, we went
+through the native quarter, saw several temples, visited a Chinese
+school, and ascended the high wall for a view. Much of the wall is
+unimpaired. A drive in the country followed, and we saw many tiny
+Chinese gardens and a number of cemeteries.
+
+The jinrikisha ride to Aberdeen, a fishing village some miles distant,
+proved delightful. The roadway was sometimes close to the water's edge;
+then we ascended and looked down over low cliffs, with coves ever and
+anon dotting the shore. It reminded me continually of the ride from
+Sorrento to Amalfi, and again of the Upper Corniche drive from Mentone
+to Nice.
+
+Early on Wednesday, March 25th, we left on the steamer _Keung Shang_ for
+a visit to Canton, ninety miles distant. Leaving the commercial city and
+a fleet of shipping vessels behind us, we had some miles of lake
+scenery; then we had islands and the coast line beyond. Soon we were in
+Pearl River, and the surroundings grew more picturesque,--now a little
+village near the water's edge with a mountain behind, and then more
+islands and more mountain ranges. We had a glimpse of Castle Peak, two
+thousand feet high. We then passed an immense prominence, called the
+Half-Way Rock. At a place known as Tiger's Mouth, fortifications were
+seen. The country soon becomes flat, with rice fields and fruit farms;
+we saw the Whampoa Pagoda and some miles farther on the Honam Pagoda.
+Near Canton, we passed another pagoda, and then the white spire of the
+French cathedral gleamed out, and our goal was reached. It is a most
+interesting river trip, and is unfortunately more often taken at night,
+in order to economize time.
+
+The first impression of Canton is one of noise, a fearful din rising and
+falling in a kind of cadence, and seeming to proceed largely from an
+immense flotilla of boats extending a long way, tied, in a majority of
+cases, seven and eight rows deep--craft of all kinds, sampans, junks,
+rice boats, freight, each with its quota of humanity, for this is a
+veritable floating city, with a life all its own, and almost wholly
+independent of the Canton proper which we were about to visit and which
+numbered a hundred thousand souls.
+
+We had not anticipated much enjoyment in Canton, having read of the dirt
+and smells, but we had not expected to be deafened at our very entrance,
+and I think for the time being it dulled the consciousness of this
+wonderful spectacle of a floating independent city just at the door of a
+city whose name is famous the world over.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CANTON, _March 25th_: We were soon conveyed up a back canal to the
+Shameen (the name of the city of foreign concession), where our
+quarters, the Hotel Victoria, were located. My room was situated on the
+ground floor, the gallery opening on a large garden or court, abloom
+with trees and flowers. There was no key to the door, and strangers were
+all about me, but the complacent manner in which I met this fact caused
+me to realize that my courage was greater than when at Jeypore in
+far-away India.
+
+The first afternoon, a jinrikisha ride convinced us that we were in the
+most congested city on the face of the globe; a city of streets so
+narrow that two chairs could hardly pass each other; a city of strange
+sights and more violent contrasts than any we had yet seen. And the
+smells!--the English language does not contain words strong enough to
+describe them. In the bazar portion of the city we were diverted by the
+box-like shops, with their open fronts, and filled with curios, works in
+jade, wood, and unique articles of feather jewelry.
+
+Then the wonderful Chinese signs! We had noticed and admired them in
+Hong-Kong, but in size and beauty they now far excelled anything of the
+kind we had seen before. They extended from an upper story, for these
+bazars were many of them on the ground floor of four-story apartments,
+each story having its front gallery where one could witness diversified
+scenes of family life. The signs are about a half a yard wide and are
+decorated from top to bottom, with gold and brilliant colors, the
+Chinese letters forming a large feature of the display. These signs
+(sometimes five grouped together) are wonderfully effective, as they
+sway back and forth in the wind, and they are a partial indication of
+the Chinese industry which prevails.
+
+[Illustration: _A five-story pagoda_]
+
+There were larger shops in better locations in the city, and here we
+found the grass linen embroidered articles and the crape for which
+Canton is famous.
+
+The following morning, we departed on a more serious sight-seeing
+expedition, to include all manner of typical Cantonese places, but
+before I had been out an hour I decided that the description of one
+temple only would not adequately convey a true impression, for
+everywhere we went things seemed unreal and grotesque, but interesting.
+First, we entered what our guide termed the Medicine Temple, not so very
+large, where on the opposite side of the room huge idols were placed
+before all manner of receptacles for holding medicine; next a Buddhist
+Temple, very inferior to any we had seen; then a Confucian temple, plain
+like the majority of them; while a Shinto temple had the characteristic
+torii before it. This latter I will describe when Japan, the land of the
+torii, is the topic.
+
+The Five-story Pagoda is quite imposing, as it is placed on the city
+wall and commands a wide view. It is the custom for parties to go there
+and take their picnic luncheon, and our guide had planned for us to do
+this, but unfortunately the pagoda was being repaired and visitors were
+not permitted. So we proceeded to a large building on an eminence, which
+was furnished like a club house and was evidently for public use. There
+was a conventional garden in front, affording a very extended view.
+
+A visit to the so-called "Home of the Dead" followed; this was unlike
+anything ever experienced before. We entered an enclosure, laid out
+partly as a garden; there were walks leading around, and some of them
+had low rooms at the sides, with open fronts, while on a plinth rested
+coffins of different styles; the bodies within were awaiting burial.
+Flowers were scattered here and there, and I believe fruit, food, and
+offerings of various kinds also.
+
+We next visited the place of execution, which was ghastly with its
+associations, and the executioner swung the large instrument around, as
+the guide explained the process of decapitating heads. But fortunately
+for our nerves the place then contained only long rows of jars from a
+pottery near by.
+
+The Nambo Prison proved to be a wooden affair, gates and all, but the
+poor unkept, unwashed victims who glared at us through the bars looked
+too sickly and emaciated to offer any resistance, even had they a mind
+to escape.
+
+[Illustration: _Temple of the Five Genii at Canton_]
+
+By far the most interesting place we visited was the Temple of the Five
+Hundred Genii, with large brass gods seated on opposite sides of a long
+hall,--the Temple of the Five Genii, and the ancestral temple of a
+certain royal family of China. We first entered a large enclosure, then
+a goodly-sized audience room, and next the temple proper. The three
+walls of this room (as I remember them) were fitted up like an immense
+cabinet, with rows of drawers, each supposed to contain some document
+relating to that particular ancestor. There was one upright vacant space
+which the guide said would be filled when that branch of the family
+died.
+
+We were here without a "Murray," as in Java and Siam, so we graciously
+accepted such information as our most intelligent guide could give us,
+who, by the way, was the original guide of Canton, two sons now
+following in his footsteps, for the father in his later years rarely
+accompanies parties. He is a gentleman, affable, well dressed in Chinese
+brocade, and less unresponsive than are most Chinese; it was indeed a
+pleasure to be "conducted" by him.
+
+The Hall of Examination is open to the public only once in three years,
+when students of high-school grade are examined for entrance to a
+university course, eighty-seven of the applicants being chosen. The hall
+has, on three sides, little box-like slates about six by eight feet,
+furnished with only a plank on which the student must sit and sleep. He
+is shut in there for three days, food being given him on entering for
+the entire time. This torture is repeated three times, so that nine days
+of purgatory have to be endured before the goal is reached.
+
+The aristocracy of Canton is not one of wealth, but of intellectual
+honors; many of the Chinamen who are seen wearing horn-rimmed spectacles
+are either of a literary turn of mind or are attempting to pass as such.
+
+Seen from the city wall or any very high point, Canton seems a city of
+roofs, with scarcely an opening and not a vestige of green. The narrow
+streets are many of them covered with awnings. It is a city of great
+color, the brilliant signs, the covered palanquin chairs, the costumes
+of the wealthy Chinese, all contributing to the riotous effect. It is a
+city of very wide contrasts, for rich and poor jostle each other on the
+streets and their homes are often side by side.
+
+Canton is, after all, even with the noise, smells, and dirt included, a
+fascinating city, and while one would not care to remain long in it, one
+should never omit it.
+
+Shameen, the island of concession, where are located two hotels,
+consulates, churches, some shops, and the homes of all the foreign
+residents, is a most pleasing place. Long avenues of trees are seen on
+every side, the grounds of many of the homes sloping to the river,
+which of itself adds to the beauty; the water is spanned by two iron
+bridges which are locked every night; everywhere a general air of
+refinement prevails. This very Shameen furnishes the greatest contrast
+of all to hoary, venerable old Canton.
+
+[Illustration: _The San Paulo Façade_]
+
+It is claimed that Canton's origin dates from three hundred years before
+the Christian era. The city was then encircled by a kind of stockade
+made of bamboo and river mud, and it resembled a camp in most of its
+details. A thousand years and Canton is alluded to as a commercial city,
+with a special commissioner appointed by the Government to superintend
+foreign trade. At an early date the great pass was constructed through
+the Mei-hung range of mountains, and this proves to be one of the
+principal trade-routes in use at the present time. Another thousand
+years and we have the city of to-day, with its peculiar conditions, its
+fascinations. Surely its age commands our respect. Its people, seemingly
+impassive, are a subject for study, as are all the Chinese. Will the
+Western mind ever be able to understand this? I have a theory that
+behind the impassiveness there is a certain kind of responsiveness if it
+can be reached, but thus far I have only been able to test it upon house
+servants in California and those who have served us at different points
+in our trip. I have met persons who share my belief, their opinion
+being based on an acquaintance with the educated class.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MACAO, _March 28th_: We again took the steamer _Kian Tang_ for an
+eighty-mile run to Macao. The scene is quite as varied and pleasing as
+the passage from Hong-Kong to Canton. There were numerous islands, and,
+on the mainland, villages were seen with occasional forts which told the
+story of past invasions. Rice fields and great groves of mulberry trees
+indicated some of the chief industries of China. Macao is situated on
+the western shores of the estuary of the great Pearl River, sometimes
+called Canton River. It was founded early in the sixteenth century by
+the Portuguese, who were the first nation to invade the Eastern seas in
+the interest of commerce, having aided the Chinese during the invasion
+of pirates. As a reward, in the year 1557, the rocky peninsula was given
+to them, the Portuguese having previously made use of it as a
+trading-station and a naval depot.
+
+[Illustration: _The bund at Macao, called Praia Grande_]
+
+Macao is beautifully located high above the sea, and the approach is
+fine; the first impression is of a Mediterranean port, but on landing,
+the style of the buildings and the arrangement of the streets reminded
+me of Spain, while the blended coloring on the parapet and walls (which
+only time can give) was like Ponta Delgada of the Azores. Our hotel
+stood on an eminence overlooking the sea, indeed so near the sea that
+the moan and swish of the waves were always with us. The view from my
+balcony brought to mind the outlook from the old monastery at Amalfi,
+Italy. The whole atmosphere of the place was peaceful, and this was its
+chief attraction. We were there over Sunday, and the impression was
+deepened. Our arrival being early in the morning, we at once commenced
+our tour of observation, our guide seeming quite intelligent. We knew
+that the population of Macao was about eighty thousand, and, with the
+exception of a few Portuguese officials, entirely Chinese, so we were
+prepared for Chinese scenes, and it seemed quite consistent that we
+should first visit a large opium factory, this drug being one of the
+large exports of Macao. Here was explained the entire process of
+manufacture, from the poppy leaf to the final shipment; and for a
+further object lesson, we were taken into a room arranged for smoking
+opium, where sat three richly dressed Chinamen, half reclining; two had
+already passed into the temporary land of bliss and the third had the
+far-away look in his eyes that betokened semi-unconsciousness.
+
+The fourteenth-century façade of San Paulo greatly interested us aside
+from its architectural merit; it stands to-day, as it has stood for
+generations, the sole remnant of a fine cathedral which perished in an
+earthquake. It is like a sentinel pointing the way to a better life. The
+modern Catholic cathedral had no distinctive features. The English
+church was unpretentious, but the Protestant cemetery adjoining contains
+tablets sacred to the memory of many military and naval officers and
+also of missionaries and their families; I remember especially the stone
+erected to a Rev. Mr. Morrison, one of the early missionaries to China.
+
+Macao's chief claim to renown is its association with Camoëns, the great
+Portuguese poet of the sixteenth century, whose epic poem, "The
+Lusiads," has been translated into most known languages. This poem was
+written during his ten years' residence in Macao, and the garden,
+grotto, and bust of Camoëns are all a memorial tribute from a fellow
+countryman, Lorenco Marques. The garden and grotto were interesting, and
+the bronze bust which rests on a block whereon is engraved a poem to
+Macao by an English scholar, Sir John Bowring, is fine in design and
+execution. It is interesting to note that through "The Lusiads" Camoëns
+was permitted to return to Portugal to end his days, he having been
+banished twice because his views were too outspoken. He died at Lisbon
+in 1580.
+
+The shops in Macao were of no special interest, and the street scenes
+lacked life and color. A long drive followed luncheon, first to the
+wonderful Bund, here called Praia Granda, which is semi-circular like
+the harbor, and the street fronting the water is lined with homes or
+business houses. Not one discordant note is here found. The drive is
+protected on the water side by a high stone coping, and it was being
+extended far beyond the original curve on the right-hand side, while at
+the left it leads out into a prolonged drive, first on the heights where
+are located residences and a club, then on to the country, until we
+reach the dividing line between a Portuguese possession and China. This
+is marked by an imposing arch. On the outskirts we visited several
+factories, one for weaving matting, another for the manufacture of every
+form of fire-works (a regular Fourth of July supply), and that the
+realism should not be missing, some small boys on the corner exploded a
+bunch of fire-crackers.
+
+There were other factories, but the most interesting was one devoted to
+the manufacture of silk thread from cocoons. It was very large, and only
+women and girls were there employed, and the deft way in which they
+caught the silk end from the cocoon (the latter is first placed in
+boiling water) and wound it on reels quite won our admiration. We were
+then taken to rooms where large twists of silk were placed ready for
+shipment to England, a package not over two feet square representing an
+investment of many thousands of dollars. The long drive to the hotel
+ended an eventful day; the evening was to furnish further excitement in
+a visit to some fan-tan parlors for which Macao is noted; indeed, it is
+the Monte Carlo of the Far East, and I fear this feature attracts more
+tourists than the beauty of the location. Certain it is that the
+steamers from Hong-Kong supply a large contingent that comes hither
+daily, since both fan-tan and lotteries are prohibited in Hong-Kong. All
+the parlors are under Chinese management and are extensively patronized.
+Some are said to be very luxurious in their appointments, being, of
+course, for the wealthy patrons, who do not, however, sit on the floor
+where the gambling is going on, but in a little room arranged with
+galleries all around. Their servants sit below and receive from them an
+indication as to certain numbers which may win or lose as the wheel of
+fortune turns. There are retiring-rooms for the opium smokers and
+separate places for serving refreshments. Such a condition represents
+the aristocratic status of the game. The reverse aspect is seen in the
+miserable "joints," which are too dreadful even to contemplate. Here is
+where Macao derives the revenue to carry on its fine improvements, and,
+as in Bangkok, there is no intimation of a desire to reform the evil.
+
+The Chinese have also invaded Burma, and intermarriage with the Burmese
+maidens is becoming general. Java is not exempt from their presence; in
+Siam they are very numerous; in Singapore they permeate everywhere; and
+in Macao they are possessors of the field. Truly their colonizing power
+is tremendous, and, unlike the British, they commence downward and work
+upward, the coolie ever being the advance guard.
+
+On Sunday morning there was no service at the English church, and so two
+of our party, by invitation of the missionary, Rev. Mr. Todd, attended a
+Chinese service held in rooms which were far from adequate for their
+needs. A Sunday-school of about two hundred children was just leaving as
+we entered, and their interested faces made me hopeful that this early
+influence might save them from the fan-tan attraction. The service was
+in Chinese, but the reverend gentleman, not being fluent in the Chinese
+language, first gave a paragraph in English, and this was translated by
+his wife into Chinese, which made it more interesting and assuredly more
+understandable to us. The audience paid the closest attention, and to my
+surprise their faces revealed an animated response. The women were
+dressed in the long black coats and loose trousers seen everywhere, but
+their hair ornaments were of gold, set with jewels, and their earrings
+jade or large pearls of great value. At the close of the service a man
+arose and evidently made a most impassioned appeal, judging by the
+intonation of his voice and the spontaneous applause he received. At the
+close Mr. Todd told us that it was an appeal for money with which to
+secure a better place of meeting, and that the Chinese women in front
+had already given two hundred dollars toward the movement.
+
+On Monday morning the steamer _Suitai_ carried us safely back to
+Hong-Kong. The harbor looked more attractive than ever, and we were glad
+to be again under English rule. On entering the hotel, an incident
+occurred that lent coloring to my "theory." In order to explain, I must
+go backward. On my first arrival at the hotel I had placed some
+photographs on my chiffonier, and among them was the one of little
+Katharine in the dog-cart with Omg, our American China boy, standing by
+her. The following morning on entering my room, I saw both of the men
+who were in charge of the cleaning gazing intently at the picture;
+turning around, one of them asked, "You know China boy?" I assented, and
+then told him something of the Chinamen who were employed in California.
+This seemed to please them both immensely. On my return from Canton and
+Macao, I walked down a long hall to my room and encountered several of
+the so-termed "boys," every one of whom smiled and greeted me. I was
+puzzled for a moment,--they had formerly seemed so impassive,--and then
+I remembered the morning's incident and inferred that all had seen the
+picture and had been told that I "knew China boy."
+
+Manila was in our original itinerary, and on our first arrival in
+Hong-Kong we were given our choice of a trip there or of the one we had
+enjoyed at Canton and Macao, as the visit to Manila would have afforded
+us but one day in Canton without even a glimpse of Macao. We thought we
+had chosen wisely, but that evening, when we heard the enthusiastic
+report of several who had just returned from Manila, I regretted that we
+could not have done both, which would be my advice to all future
+tourists.
+
+We had three more days in Hong-Kong. There were jinrikisha rides,
+shopping, and attendance at a Chinese theatre where much noise, vigorous
+action, and very little dramatic talent were in evidence. It was,
+however, interesting to watch the people, and to note their enthusiasm,
+with no impassiveness now, as well as the peculiar mixture of costumes.
+The business streets were full of life and action, and the shops
+contained a very tempting array of articles. One afternoon I took a
+jinrikisha ride on the Bund, past the great warehouses, or godowns as
+they are called, filled with goods or food stuffs for shipment to every
+port in China. Hong-Kong also aims to be a centre of supply for the
+shipping of the world that comes to her door, and her dockyards and
+shops are said to be equal to the demand. Somewhere I have seen this
+statement, "that if Hong-Kong could be a port of origin instead of a
+port of call, her commercial importance would equal that of London." The
+means of transportation are varied, including electric cars, carriages,
+jinrikishas, and sedan chairs. These may sometimes be seen following
+each other in succession. The streets show the cosmopolitan side of the
+city's life, as denizens of almost every clime assemble there, in the
+interest of business or of pleasure.
+
+The militia gives a dash of color to the scene,--the officers with their
+uniforms, and the ever-present Tommy Atkins in his khaki suit,--besides
+the wealthy Chinese in robes of brocade, the first of the kind we had
+seen, and the coolie in short jacket and blue knee trousers, the color
+being a badge of servitude. The English social life of the city is also
+said to be very agreeable to residents, or to those who remain long
+enough to participate in it, and I can now understand the enthusiasm of
+friends who once resided there. When we left Hong-Kong, we felt that we
+could have lingered much longer and been happy.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _The bund at Shanghai_]
+
+SHANGHAI: Our approach to Shanghai was through the Wusung River, as all
+large steamers are obliged to anchor at the bar. A launch was taken for
+a ride of sixteen miles. The river banks were picturesque, and little
+villages were succeeded by a vast amount of shipping, while factories
+and warehouses from an artistic standpoint spoiled a large space of the
+water front, the redeeming feature further on being a Public Garden, the
+Consulates, and a collection of fine business houses.
+
+We arrived at Shanghai on the morning of April 6th, and at once
+proceeded to the Hotel Astor; then we left almost immediately for a
+general drive, as we were to remain only for the day. We first visited
+the native quarter, where the streets were narrow; but, in comparison
+with Canton, they seemed much less crowded. We saw the exterior of some
+temples and an interesting tea-house and bazar which were similar in
+arrangement to those in Canton, and contained about the same articles.
+The native town is very tame in comparison with Canton. Before luncheon
+we visited two large silk houses, where we examined a remarkable display
+of all kinds of silks and embroideries. After luncheon we proceeded to
+take what is called the "Bubbling Well Drive," first exploring two
+interesting tea-houses, one called the "Mandarin Teahouse" being very
+elegant in all of its appointments. It had a garden arranged in
+conventional Chinese style, with a rockery, miniature lake, and dwarf
+trees. On the ride to Bubbling Well Road, we saw many beautiful homes of
+modern European style, Shanghai being considered a very desirable
+residence for foreigners. After visiting other points of interest, in
+the late afternoon we returned to our steamer, having had time only for
+a bird's-eye view of Shanghai and a brief outline of its places of
+interest.
+
+Shanghai is situated on the left bank of a stream called the Hiangpo, a
+tributary of the Yangtse River. Formerly there were an English
+settlement and an American settlement, the latter with no legal claims.
+These are now merged into the foreign settlement. There is also a French
+colony, with its numerous concessions.
+
+The history of the city may be divided into two sections, the
+pre-foreign period and the foreign period. In both there has been a
+continuous increase of prosperity and importance, due to furnishing
+unusual facilities for fostering trade. In the early years Shanghai was
+subject to frequent raids and disturbances, and in 1543 there was a
+general devastation. Foreign residence was sanctioned only as a result
+of the first Chinese war. The signing of the treaty of Nanking threw
+open Shanghai and four other ports to foreign trade, the latter being
+Swatow, Amoy, Foochow, and Ningpoo, but these have never acquired the
+importance of Shanghai, which has the advantage of being at the mouth of
+the Yangtse River.
+
+In 1849 a concession was granted to the French, but as late as 1850
+there were only one hundred and fifty-seven foreign residents, and
+twenty-five foreign firms doing business. Shanghai is distinctively a
+commercial city, with a flat location, no background, and an artificial
+foreground of solid rows of business buildings. The approach to the city
+reveals a succession of mills, docks, wharves, engineering works, and
+buildings of every description, except those of artistic and pleasing
+appearance. The principal streets, the Bund and the Nanking Road, run at
+right angles to each other, and the chief thoroughfares run parallel to
+these two. The Bund is broad, fronting the water, and is a popular
+thoroughfare. The Nanking Road deserves special mention. It begins as a
+narrow passage-way with foreign business houses on each side; it then
+widens, and has Chinese shops, with, later on, the recreation ground,
+Town Hall, and Library. Farther on it is known as Bubbling Well Road.
+
+Shanghai, as a residence for the European, is said to be the finest city
+in the East as regards modern conveniences, finer than any place east of
+Suez, but it is a city of contrasts. No centre can offer a wider choice
+for enjoyment,--the public recreation ground covering eight thousand
+acres. Within this enclosure is the race course, where cricket,
+football, hockey, tennis, golf, polo, and baseball are played; and
+numberless pavilions, dressing-rooms, and a swimming-bath are included
+in the adjacent building--all free to the public. There are in addition
+many clubs of a private nature, some social and others musical, and many
+of them owning fine buildings. Matters of education are not neglected,
+and the public schools even include kindergartens. There are likewise
+private schools, but the provisions for educating Chinese children are
+very inadequate, and mostly of the mission order. The Roman Catholic
+missions have excellent schools and well-equipped buildings. There is a
+fine American College, St. John's, that grants degrees. Some
+institutions are managed by the Chinese, the principal one being the
+Imperial Polytechnic College, which is housed in a fine block of
+buildings. There are also various organizations of an intellectual
+order, such as the Royal Asiatic Society, which is affiliated with a
+society of the same name in England; and an American Asiatic Society to
+further interests in the Far East. Architects, engineers, and
+missionaries likewise have their guilds.
+
+[Illustration: _Mogi Road at Nagasaki_]
+
+The religious life of the settlement is very diversified, and includes
+Jews, Parsees, Mohammedans, Greek and Roman Catholics, and members of
+the Anglican Church; the various forms of the Protestant Church are
+represented, and most of the missions have their headquarters here.
+
+We returned to our steamer in the evening, and sailed on for Kobe, our
+point of departure, but we had "stop-over privileges at Nagasaki." Our
+intervening day was passed mostly on deck, the weather being fine.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NAGASAKI, _April 8th_: We arrived at Nagasaki on the morning of April
+8th in a pouring rain which rather dampened our ardor, inasmuch as we
+had a full day's programme arranged. We went ashore, however, and
+proceeded to the Cliff House for a short time, but as the storm
+increased we returned to the steamer somewhat crestfallen. The _Korea_
+was taking on coal when we left, but on our return there was an ominous
+silence, and we learned that the workers, thoroughly drenched, had
+struck and that the vessel would be compelled to remain another day.
+Hope revived amongst us, and on the following morning the sun was
+shining brightly. This was the only time I have known a strike to be of
+benefit.
+
+The process of taking on coal was very peculiar. Ladders were placed up
+the sides of the steamer, relays of men and women were arranged in nine
+rows, counting from the bottom; coal was placed in baskets and passed up
+in fire-bucket fashion with the utmost quickness and dexterity. It
+continued incessantly until the work was completed. There were more
+women than men working, and they all wore pointed white handkerchiefs
+over their heads.
+
+A steam launch conveyed us to Nagasaki, and once there we took a
+jinrikisha for a memorable mountain ride of five miles, along a road
+called the Mogi. We ascended gradually from the sea-level, and soon the
+loveliest view was spread before us. On our right, looking downward,
+were the sea and the city rising in terraces from the water, the
+hillsides covered with foliage, all sparkling in the morning light; on
+our left, foothills, and beyond these the mountains. We stopped at a
+Japanese tea-house to rest the jinrikisha men, and soon after, we came
+to a point in the landscape said to be represented in the opera of
+"Madame Butterfly." Reaching the Mogi, we found another tea-house, and
+we all alighted and roamed around the point, where we had a magnificent,
+far-reaching panorama. The descent was quite as enjoyable, and
+altogether we voted the ride an entire success.
+
+We next visited some bazars. The temples were omitted, but I later
+visited them on my return trip to North China. Then we returned to the
+steamer for a late luncheon, and the bevy of animated coal-heavers were
+still at work. The day following was our last on the steamer, and our
+way lay through one portion of the Inland Sea, meaning a narrow
+waterway, the shores of which were visible on both sides.
+
+[Illustration: _The main street in Kobe_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+KOBE: We arrived at Kobe on the evening of April 10th, and fell at once
+into the grasp of the custom-house authorities, who proved, however,
+very lenient. Our valued Director here left us to go on to Yokohama and
+was succeeded by a Japanese guide, Mr. Macheeda, who took charge of four
+of the party, small groups and native guides being the policy in
+Japan.[6] Our abiding-place in Kobe was the Oriental Hotel.
+
+The following morning we went out early in jinrikishas for a general
+ride through Kobe, going first to the distant waterfall in the
+mountains, which really proved a fine spectacle. Next we visited
+temples, then some shops or bazars, and a Satsuma studio, where the
+whole art process was explained to us by a most courteous Japanese, who
+spoke English perfectly. All the appointments of the studio were truly
+Japanese, including the sliding windows and doors, the hardwood floor
+and the matting walls. Here tea and little cakes were served to us.
+
+We then went to another studio with a different interior. This was
+larger and more pretentious. Again the process was explained to us in
+the same courteous way, and we realized that we were now in a land where
+good manners prevailed. A heavy rain unfortunately set in, and we were
+compelled to return to the hotel.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ONOMICHI: The following day we took the train for Onomichi, arriving at
+our destination in the evening. Here we were to have a new experience,
+the hotel being strictly Japanese, with not a word of English spoken.
+First, we were asked to remove our shoes and put on slippers, the
+alternative being cotton coverings for our own shoes. I preferred the
+latter. The house was quite large, consisting of two stories. The first
+floor was, however, occupied by the family. The second floor was
+entirely devoted to our party, whose suite included several rooms with
+movable screens so arranged that one large room could be converted into
+two. There were sliding windows, paper taking the place of glass.
+
+[Illustration: _The fort and castle at Osaka_]
+
+Our beds were the futons, composed of dark red comforters, one below and
+one above us, with another hard roll for the head. There were no chairs
+in the sleeping-rooms, but washstands had been improvised, there being
+dressing-rooms outside of some of the rooms. Concession was made us in
+the improvised dining-room, a table and chairs being reserved for our
+special use. On one side of this room there was a slightly raised floor,
+and here were pretty little side tables and bronze ornaments. Our guide
+had very considerately brought some canned goods with him and also some
+bread; the family, however, furnished us with eggs and tea. The mother
+and two daughters were bright and sunny, as were the little Japanese
+maids who attended to the menial work. It was altogether a novel
+experience. The next morning, however, the rain was coming down in
+torrents, and there was no possibility of our taking a steamer for a
+trip of several hours to the sacred island of Miyajima, so we
+reluctantly boarded the morning train for Osaka, arriving there late in
+the afternoon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+OSAKA, _April 13th_: The next morning dawned brightly, and we left in
+jinrikishas for a general tour, first visiting the fort where stands a
+noted castle, very picturesque in appearance. We then visited the
+Exposition of Industrial Arts, which did not seem unlike an exposition
+at home in its general arrangements. The goods displayed, however, were
+very different. Then we had a ride along Cherry Blossom Avenue, the
+trees being laden with the pale pink flower. We visited bazars and noted
+the general aspect of the place, canals being a dominant characteristic
+of the landscape. We saw a particularly fine temple among many others.
+Osaka is a commercial city of great wealth and is more celebrated from a
+business point of view than from its artistic aspect.
+
+After luncheon we went to Yaba Meczan's Satsuma studio. This artist is
+celebrated, having taken prizes at both the Chicago and St. Louis
+Expositions, and his work surpassed any I had ever seen. The decoration
+on some of the vases was so fine that it required a glass to bring out
+the full and minute detail. In designing and decorating these vases the
+work has to be done with a magnifying glass, which is a very severe
+strain on the eyes. We then proceeded up what is called Theatre Street,
+so named because of the situation of several playhouses in the midst of
+prominent shops. Banners and signs were displayed in every available
+space, all of different colors, and the general effect was very unusual
+as they floated in the breeze. Later in the afternoon we took a train
+for Kyoto.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+KYOTO, _April 15th_: The following morning another heavy rain greeted
+us. We were now in the Japanese city which retains more of the old life
+and customs than any other, not having been spoiled as yet by modern
+innovations. The bad weather abating in the afternoon, we went to the
+temple Nishi Otani. This is situated on quite an eminence. We crossed a
+stone bridge spanning a lotus pond, and walked up an inclined way paved
+with granite, a flight of steps leading to the handsome main gate which
+faces a strikingly carved two-storied structure. We took our places on
+the steps and awaited the arrival of the procession of Buddhist priests,
+this being the chief object of our visit. They came in large numbers,
+walking two by two, and arrayed in the most gorgeous brocades, no two
+being of the same pattern. Around the waist they wore wide sashes of
+equal richness and beauty, and the effect was truly very striking, as
+they walked up the hill. This was one of the features of the rite of
+commemoration, the ceremonies continuing through the week. We then
+visited some shops, of which there are a large number, all of them very
+interesting.
+
+[Illustration: _The rapids near Kyoto_]
+
+[Illustration: _Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto_]
+
+Shintoism is the State religion, and the following morning we visited
+one of the temples, named Kitano Tenjin. Entering through the great
+stone torii or gateway, we found stone lanterns, together with stone and
+bronze bulls presented by devotees. Another torii and a couple of
+two-storied gates were passed through, the last being called the Gate of
+the Three Luminaries, or the Sun, Moon, and Stars. This was the entrance
+to one side of the square, the other three sides being formed of
+colonnades. It might be well to explain that a torii consists of two
+upright columns several feet apart. At the top is a cross-bar extending
+out about one foot on each side and two feet lower than the top of the
+columns.
+
+There were many other details noted by us, and it was perhaps the most
+effective Shinto temple that we saw. We then visited Kinkakuji, more
+commonly called the "Golden Pavilion." This is Buddhist in character,
+and there is a monastery surrounded by a fine garden in which is another
+pavilion. The garden was artistic, in the middle of which is a lake with
+pine-clad shores and pine-clad islets; this indeed seemed unusual so
+near a large city. The lake is usually filled with a flowering plant
+called junsai and is stocked with carp, which always appear on the
+approach of visitors, expecting to be fed.
+
+All the ancient buildings have disappeared except the Pavilion, which
+was restored in 1906. It stands on the water's edge and is
+three-storied. Each floor is furnished with statuettes of different
+saints and has mural decorations by Kano Masanobu. There are very
+unusual features connected with this temple. The so-called apartments
+are in two sets,--one attached to the main building with pictorial
+sliding screens symbolic of Chinese sages and other subjects by Kano.
+There are also drawings of birds and trees, and ornaments done by
+celebrated artists. Folding screens are in common use. One artistic
+group represents three religious teachers, Confucius, Buddha, and Lao
+Tze. After showing these art treasures to us the priests served tea,
+while we sat around in true Japanese style.
+
+[Illustration: _The Golden Pavilion_]
+
+After luncheon we went to still another very interesting Buddhist
+temple, Kiyomizu-dera. Kyoto abounds in fine temples. We left our
+jinrikishas at the foot of the hill and walked up a long, high lane
+called Teapot Street because in all the little shops bordering the
+thoroughfare china and teapots are displayed, forming the favorite
+purchases of the country people who frequent this temple. The building
+is situated in a striking position and commands a view of the entire
+city. The two-storied gateway at the top of the steps was restored in
+1897. Outside this gate are two pagodas, each three-storied, and the
+large green bell, dating from 1624. We then passed up through a
+colonnade to the main temple, whose rough, hewn columns and bare floor
+are most unusual. The whole style is original and unique. The great
+festival day here is on the 17th of August, when a classic concert is
+given, the musicians being dressed in various unique costumes. They are
+seated opposite each other in the wings like the two sides of a choir. A
+dancing stage extends the whole length of its front, and this opens
+into a hall full of _ex-voto_ pictures, some of which possess great
+artistic merit. Directly behind this main temple are several other
+temples and an eleven-storied pagoda which it is impossible to describe
+here adequately.
+
+On our homeward way we visited the Art Museum. This and the museum at
+Nara contain the very best collections of early Japanese statuary. The
+exhibits have been taken or borrowed from time to time from various
+Buddhist temples in Kyoto and the surrounding provinces. Some date from
+the seventh and eighth centuries, when Buddhist carving was at the
+height of its excellence. There are also screens, ancient manuscripts,
+swords, armor, musical instruments, coins, imperial robes, and
+miscellaneous articles.
+
+To vary the programme a little, we made an excursion on the following
+day to Lake Biwa, some miles distant. This is a very celebrated body of
+water in Japan. We had our choice between returning to Kyoto by the more
+exciting way of the canal with its long tunnels or going to Otsu. We
+chose the latter.
+
+[Illustration: _The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa_]
+
+Near Otsu there is the largest pine tree in the world, and it has been
+trained in the peculiar conventional manner employed by the Japanese.
+Here we had a picnic luncheon and then drove some distance to the
+heights of Otsu, where one hundred and thirty monasteries and temples
+are said to be grouped. We walked up the incline, passing many temples
+and seeing a very ancient bronze bell of great historic interest.
+Descending, we went through the village of Otsu, which has quite a
+reputation, since it was the scene of what might have been a very
+serious accident to the present Emperor of Russia, then czarevitch. He
+was accompanied by Prince George of Greece, now King George, when
+savagely attacked by an insane man. Certain disaster would have followed
+had it not been for the presence of mind of the Prince.
+
+We reached Kyoto at 5 P.M., having had a long, though extremely
+delightful day. Excursions being in order, we went the next day to
+"shoot the rapids ending at Arashi-yama." We had various means of
+transportation during the day, jinrikishas, trains, and a short railway
+trip which was highly picturesque, the line running along just above the
+dashing river. At Hozu we took the boat for the descent of the rapids
+down to the landing-place of Arashi-yama, and this was a most exciting
+experience, the passage taking about an hour and a half. Great care had
+to be observed by the pilots of the boats, as there were several parties
+going down and many others returning. The shores of the river were very
+interesting, being high wooded hills which were abloom. Arashi-yama is
+famous for its cherry blossoms. We had a picnic luncheon here and
+returned to Kyoto by train.
+
+On Easter Sunday I attended a union service, but afterwards learned that
+there was a special commemoration at St. Mary's, and that the Episcopal
+Bishop Partridge was at the hotel. There seemed to be a great deal of
+friendly feeling between the different religious denominations in Kyoto;
+a little booklet given us at the union service containing information
+with regard to all the churches, including the Episcopal. Easter
+afternoon we attended a remarkable Buddhist ceremony in the Chroin
+Temple on a high hill. At least seventy-five priests were in attendance,
+all arrayed in their gorgeous brocaded robes and sitting in parallel
+lines opposite each other. It seemed to be an intoned service. We were
+separated from the officiants by an anteroom with a high railing, but we
+could observe all that was going on. This was a part of the ceremonial
+of the week to which I referred in connection with the Buddhist
+procession. After watching for a while, we walked about and saw several
+adjacent temples, marked by their spaciousness.
+
+A visit to the Nijo Castle, by permit, was of great interest. It dates
+from 1601, and was built by Ieyasu of Nikko memory for his use when
+visiting Kyoto. It has even in modern times considerable historical
+interest, as it was here, on April 6, 1868, that the Emperor, on
+obtaining his ancestral rights by the revolution then in progress, met
+the Council of State and swore to grant a deliberative assembly and to
+decide all measures by public opinion. For a long period Nijo Castle was
+used by the prefecture and was greatly damaged. Since 1883, it has been
+one of the Imperial Summer palaces. The apartments of the castle are
+very beautiful; the sliding screens between the rooms and the wooden
+doors separating the different sets of apartments are all adorned with
+paintings of flowers, birds, and the like, done by artists of the Kano
+School. There is beautiful metal work, and the reception hall is
+decorated with representations of street life in Kyoto and other cities.
+The ceiling is lacquered.
+
+We also procured a permit to visit the Imperial Palace, which is placed
+in a large garden like a park. This was spacious, but not so artistic as
+Nijo; there were many different buildings. We visited several, one known
+as the Temple of 33,333 Buddhas, and after gazing at the long array of
+walls and corridors with their ornaments, we accepted the estimate as
+accurate. One afternoon the great Shinto procession of the year was in
+progress. We took jinrikishas for quite a long ride, and then arrived at
+a small suburb of Kyoto, where we had places engaged on the upper
+gallery of a house. There were great crowds of people, and we waited a
+long time before the arrival of the first shrine. There were five in
+all. These shrines were large and ornamental, with a great deal of gilt
+about them, and they were placed on poles borne upon the shoulders of
+men. Four other small shrines followed, and before the pageant was over,
+the afternoon was nearly consumed. This procession was on its way to the
+great Temple of Inari, several miles distant.
+
+One morning we devoted to visiting two cloisonné studios and some curio
+shops. The first studio, Nakamura's, was very artistically arranged; one
+large room encircled a miniature garden laid out in true Japanese style
+with dwarf trees, rockeries, and a tiny little lake. We saw the whole
+process of manufacture and it was also explained to us.[7] The specimens
+were very rare and beautiful. Tea and little cakes were served and great
+courtesy extended to us. The second studio was similar to this, but a
+little larger, and again we saw the garden, and again tea was served.
+Several interesting curio shops were visited, and we then went to the
+large establishment of Yamanaka, who had fine collections at the Chicago
+and St. Louis Expositions. We then went over some silk stores, the
+manufacture of silk being the chief industry; one may purchase all kinds
+of embroidered goods.
+
+[Illustration: _Kasuga Temple_]
+
+The annual Cherry Blossom Dance--repeated at intervals for one
+week--occurred at this time. It is preceded by a ceremonial tea. We went
+at five in the afternoon and were seated around the sides of a large
+room. Special places were arranged for the pouring of tea, and presently
+a very pretty Japanese girl appeared and proceeded to heat the water,
+measure out the tea, put it in the teapot, with many other movements,
+pouring a little water on it, all in the most deliberate manner, and
+finally the preliminaries were over, and three pretty little maidens
+passed the tea around. Another girl in a bright kimono appeared and went
+through the process again. This was repeated three or four times. We
+then adjourned to a very large room, like a small theatre, with a
+gallery at the back, in which we sat. Opposite us was a wide stage, and
+on either side was arranged a platform about two feet wide, extending
+the whole length of the room. Here sat the musicians dressed as geisha
+girls, and the dancers, called Maiko, were also clad in the same manner,
+with long artistic kimonos and flowers in their hair. The dancers
+entered and proceeded to the stage; then commenced a slow and measured
+tread, every movement being graceful. Cherry blossoms were everywhere,
+even forming the decorations on the wall. Different figures were
+repeated, but all in that deliberate manner, very little like dancing
+but more like a devotional exercise. We sat there for about an hour, but
+cannot truthfully say that we enjoyed the music, as it was somewhat
+discordant.
+
+Our last day in Kyoto was a very full one. We visited shops in the
+morning, and in the afternoon went quite a distance to see a historical
+procession. We were seated in about the same manner as previously
+described. Those who took part in the procession were geisha girls and
+novitiates who were to be educated as future geisha girls, their parents
+giving them over to the instructors at an early age. This was a very
+interesting pageant. First only one or two would appear in a historical
+costume of very rich brocade, the hair most elaborately dressed with the
+ornaments peculiar to that particular period. Next two little girls
+would appear, also dressed in historical costumes. Then, after a
+considerable pause, there followed another geisha girl; and thus the
+procession continued for over an hour. We did not realize until the day
+following that most of the persons who took part were of questionable
+morals.
+
+In the evening we attended a Japanese theatre. The play was a historical
+tragedy called "The Forty-seven Ronans." The stage was well arranged
+and the action very good; it was far more interesting than the Chinese
+theatre previously described.
+
+During the week a large Collver party of eighteen arrived at the hotel;
+they were later to go to North China and by the Trans-Siberian route to
+Russia. Their Director gave a Japanese dinner in which we were included,
+Mr. Burton Holmes and his friend being the only other guests present.
+The dining-room was in the Japanese portion of the hotel, arranged with
+rugs and draperies covering the hardwood floors in quite an artistic
+manner, and at the sides were placed cushions on which we were supposed
+to sit or kneel. The formal exercises were mostly conducted by geisha
+and Maiko girls, three officiating as musicians, several more dancing,
+and others serving as attendants. Everything was done in the most
+measured manner. First, boxes were placed before us containing four
+articles, all dishes of peculiar concoctions. These were intended, we
+imagined, for us to look at for a time until the musicians and dancers
+appeared. The programme was opened with a musical number, which was
+anything but musical; the dancers then took their positions and went
+through the usual formal measures. There was more music, then another
+dance. This was repeated three or four times. The attendant geisha
+girls were seated at intervals in front of the guests.
+
+At a certain signal the music and dancing ceased, and trays were brought
+us on which were soup (we imagined the famous bird's-nest), a cup of
+saké, two more peculiar dishes, and also chopsticks! By this time the
+kneeling process had become rather painful, and I availed myself of the
+cup of saké, feeling I needed some stimulant. This was the only
+refreshment I tried, but some of the party had the courage to experiment
+further. After some deliberation and a little more converse, we arose
+from our repast and proceeded to the hotel dining-room, where a
+substantial dinner was served us at nine o'clock. This was altogether
+the most unique affair of the week and greatly enjoyed by all. The eight
+days in Kyoto had flown and we would gladly have remained longer. The
+atmosphere of the place was so truly of the past, the temples so very
+interesting, and the quaint customs of the olden times so well retained,
+that it gave a peculiar charm to the place.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NARA, _April 23d_: A day's excursion to Nara was planned, but a heavy
+rain somewhat marred our enjoyment. Nara was once a place of much
+importance, the capital of Japan during seven reigns, stretching from
+709 to 784 A.D. Its chief attraction now is the great natural beauty of
+the place, some fine temples, and a deer park. Kasuga is a noted Shinto
+temple. The approach is through the celebrated grounds where were seen
+many deer, apparently very tame. A fine avenue of cryptomerias added
+much to the dignity of the approach. The temple stands at the end of a
+long avenue of stone lanterns, some of which are lighted every night.
+The main temple is painted red, with brass lanterns, and surrounded by
+cryptomerias. A religious dance, which is held in a building near by, is
+one of the many attractive features of this temple. The dress of the
+dancers is peculiar, composed of a wide red divided skirt, a white
+under-garment, and a long gauze mantle. The hair is worn in a thick
+tress down the back, a chaplet of flowers is on the forehead, the face
+very much powdered, and in the hands are carried either the branches of
+a tree or some tiny bells which are swayed back and forth in a measured
+manner. The orchestra consists of three priests.
+
+There is a fine Buddhist temple, renovated in 1898. It is built on the
+side of a hill; a flight of steps leads up to it and the whole front is
+covered with metal lanterns which produce a weird effect. Not far
+distant is a large temple which contains a bronze Buddha called
+Dai-butsu. When we saw it, the temple was in a chaotic condition,
+undergoing renovation. The height of the Buddha is fifty-three and
+one-half feet; the face is sixteen feet long and nine and one-half feet
+broad. It is in a sitting position, with right hand uplifted. Nara has a
+fine museum, well equipped for the study of early Japanese religions.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+YAMADA, _April 23d_: In the afternoon we left for Yamada, the city of
+the celebrated Temple of Ise. On arriving, we took quite a drive up the
+mountain side to Furuichi and to the Goni-Kwai Hotel, a large,
+beautifully situated Japanese hostelry with a European department. This
+consisted of eight rooms, furnished comfortably in European style, even
+with grates, but we had the novelty of Japanese environment as we walked
+down the corridors and passed little Japanese rooms with sliding screens
+and open windows. In the morning, we walked up the hill and had a
+magnificent view; we left early in jinrikishas for a long day's
+programme. First we went through the town, the shops forming part of a
+long street, with open fronts and interiors. We then crossed a bridge to
+a suburb which contained the celebrated Temple of Ise. We proceeded up a
+long avenue, containing torii No. 1, torii No. 2, and torii No. 3,
+entering what is called the inner Temple of Ise, which, like all Shinto
+places of worship, is very plain on the exterior. We were not
+permitted to enter, but were obliged to look through an open enclosure.
+Our Japanese guide knelt down, bowed, and clapped his hands three times,
+which is the act of devotion of all Shintoites on their approaching any
+temple. In the rear there was another temple which we saw only from the
+outside; the guide told us that at this shrine Marquis Ito came to offer
+thanks for the success of the Chinese-Japanese war in 1894, and that
+Admiral Togo also came at the close of the Russian-Japanese war. It is
+estimated that at least half a million pilgrims repair annually to the
+Temple of Ise, but the educated class seldom visits the place,--perhaps
+not more than once in a lifetime.
+
+[Illustration: _The Temple of Ise (Yamada)_]
+
+We then drove eight miles to Futami, a seaside resort with a pretty
+Japanese tea-house fronting the water. Here is a peculiar formation of
+rock called "The Husband and Wife Rocks," connected by a chain. The
+bazar is quite interesting, and we had our luncheon at the tea-house,
+served in Japanese style, which means that we would have had nothing but
+tea if our thoughtful guide had not brought a basket with us. The return
+trip of eight miles was over a little different route, more picturesque
+even than the first. Arriving at Yamada, we went to the outer Temple of
+Ise. Here, as in the inner temple, there is a large house for sacred
+dances.
+
+Many tea-houses in Yamada furnish music during the evening. We visited
+a very artistic place, said to be five hundred years old, and there we
+saw one of the sacred dances peculiar to that province.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NAGOYA, _April 25th_: We left in the morning for Nagoya, and were guests
+at the Nagoya Hotel. This is a flourishing, commercial city, with one of
+the longest and widest streets we had seen in Japan. The garrison
+occupies the castle, whose approach is the same as in the olden
+time--through gates and past moats. This castle was erected in 1610 by
+twenty great feudal lords to serve as a residence for Ieyasu's son. Like
+other Japanese castles, it is a wooden building, standing on immense
+walls which are eighteen feet thick. The castle has been taken by the
+Imperial household and is preserved as a monument of historical
+interest. The two golden dolphins with silver eyes which can be seen
+glittering all over the city from the top of the five-story donjon were
+made in 1610 at the expense of the celebrated general, Kato Kiyomosa,
+who also built the donjon, or keep.
+
+[Illustration: _Nagoya Castle_]
+
+The apartments of the castle are very beautiful. The sliding screens
+between the rooms and the wooden doors separating the different suites
+are all adorned with paintings of flowers and birds. Leaving these
+apartments, we visited the historic donjon, a gloomy building of stone
+on the exterior, but furnished with wooden staircases within. The fifth
+story commands an extensive view of the town, the sea, and the vast
+plain,--rice-fields and mountains stretching in the distance. The roofs
+of the keep are of copper, and its massive gates are cased in iron.
+
+Nagoya is noted for its manufacture of porcelain and cloisonné. There is
+one celebrated Buddhist temple, Higashi Hongwanji, and the Museum. There
+are also extensive parks and parade grounds. In the evening of our stay
+there, the unexpected occurred. We had known for some time of the
+approaching Imperial Cherry Blossom Garden Party at Tokio. A telegram
+arrived, stating that our invitations awaited us in Yokohama; we were
+most fortunate, since they were in great demand. A hurried consultation
+followed, but as the remainder of the party expected to sail for San
+Francisco on May 13th, they declined to change their programme, while I
+accepted the invitation, having two weeks' more time in Japan during
+June; I regretfully bade adieu to the party, and the following morning
+proceeded to Yokohama.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+YOKOHAMA, _April 26th_: The next two weeks I was to be thrown upon my
+own responsibility. I arrived at Yokohama in the evening and
+anticipated a departure the following morning for Tokio. A pouring
+rain, however, caused an unexpected postponement. There were many
+disappointed guests in the Tokio hotels which were crowded in view of
+the great annual event. This is said to be very beautiful in all its
+appointments, the profusion of cherry blossoms being an attraction, as
+is the presence of the Emperor and Empress. The rain abating at noon,
+the grounds of the Crown Prince's palace were opened and the persons who
+were in Tokio availed themselves of the privilege of visiting them. A
+fine collation was served. The Emperor and Empress, however, did not
+appear, and the usual extremely formal ceremonies were dispensed with.
+It is the custom to give the inmates of the hospitals in Tokio a rare
+feast from what is left of the banquet. I had a busy day in Yokohama,
+which I found an attractive modern city, with beautiful shops, pleasant
+hotels, and a great crowd of visitors. I left early the following
+morning, April 28th, for Nikko.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NIKKO, _April 28th_: The sky was overcast when we started, and before
+noon there was a heavy rain which prevented any enjoyment of the really
+fine landscape. The Japanese proverb in substance runs: "Do not use the
+word 'magnificent' until you have seen Nikko." This had been ringing in
+my ears all the way, and to be compelled to proceed through the long
+street of the village in a closed jinrikisha was tantalizing. The Nikko
+Hotel was to have been my destination, but I met friends on the train
+and was persuaded to accompany them to the new Kanaya Hotel, situated
+nearer the village on a height. My programme in Nikko could only include
+three days; hence I decided that a study of the various temples, a
+general view of the city, and an excursion to Lake Chuzenji must
+suffice.
+
+The following morning the sun was shining, and I departed early to visit
+the temples. The way lay down to the river Daiya-gawa. From the bridge
+in actual use and at a short distance I beheld the "Red Bridge,"
+formerly lacquered and having brass ornaments, sacred to royal use only,
+and held in veneration by the Japanese. A long avenue of cryptomerias
+followed. This tree is like the redwood of California when used in the
+interior of a building; indeed, after a long period of time, the
+coloring is precisely the same. This I noticed in the Imperial palaces
+at Kyoto.
+
+I walked up the avenue with a feeling of awe, and it seemed as if the
+whole atmosphere of Nikko was surcharged with an element of sanctity,
+and that no one could gaze on the mountains and the groves of
+cryptomerias without being somewhat better than before. At the end of
+the avenue the perspective is wonderful, for one looks through a series
+of great stone toriis, gray with age, and sees along the way objects
+that are of interest, a five-story pagoda being the most striking. This
+approach is to the great Temple of Ieyasu, the illustrious Shogun and
+founder of the Tokugawa dynasty and, like the other great temple and
+mausoleum of his grandson, Iemitzu (farther on), was erected in the
+seventeenth century, at a time when the art of building shrines was at
+its perfection, as was the work in lacquer and bronze, wood carving and
+decorative painting. Every detail is perfect, and the great predominance
+of red and gold lacquer with its setting of green produced a striking
+effect, but without being in the least garish. Indeed, the keynote to
+all the buildings and interiors we have seen in Japan, of any age
+whatsoever, has been chasteness of design and harmony. If we sometimes
+find a discordant note in modern Japanese art, I fear Western taste has
+had some influence, if it be true that the producer ever seeks to please
+the purchaser.
+
+[Illustration: _The way to the Temple, Ieyasu_]
+
+[Illustration: _Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple_]
+
+With all this perfection on every side, it becomes even more difficult
+to give any adequate description, so that an outline comprising only
+general details will be suggested. A quotation explains my position
+fully. Dr. Dresser once wrote: "Any words that I can use must fail to
+convey any adequate idea of the consciousness of the work, the
+loveliness of the compositions, the harmoniousness of the colors, and
+the beauty of the surroundings here before me; and yet the adjectives
+which I have tried to heap one upon another, in the hope of conveying to
+the reader what I--an architect and ornamentist--feel when contemplating
+these matchless shrines, must appear, I am afraid, altogether
+unreasonable." The difficulty is further added to by the fact that there
+are in all six groups of temples with numerous associated buildings and
+gateways in the near vicinity, although Ieyasu and Iemitzu are the most
+famous.
+
+The approach to Ieyasu Temple is most unusual. Within the two courts,
+each with toriis and stone steps, are many notable adjuncts to the
+temples, the five-story pagoda, one hundred and four feet high, being a
+marvel of rich lacquered walls. It has peculiar brass-trimmed roofs and
+bells hanging from every angle. Three artistic buildings are used as
+storehouses, where articles employed in worship, pictures, and many
+treasures of Ieyasu are deposited. Near by is a finely carved gateway
+leading to a beautiful carved water cistern which is cut out of one
+solid piece of granite and sheltered by a roof supported on twelve
+square pillars of stone, all erected in 1618. A beautifully decorated
+building behind this is the depository for the complete collection of
+the Buddhist scriptures, contained in a fine revolving octagonal
+bookcase with red lacquered panels and gilt pillars. In the centre of
+this court stands a fine bronze torii. A flight of steps gives access to
+the second court. Just inside of this are two stone lions in the act of
+leaping down; on the right stand a bell tower, a bronze candelabrum
+presented by the King of Loochoo, and another bell presented by the King
+of Korea; there is also a bronze candelabrum from Holland. This
+diversity of gifts indicates the general interest at that time in this
+shrine. All of these articles are of very unusual style of workmanship.
+
+At the left extremity of this same platform stands the Temple of
+Wakushi, dedicated to the patron saint of Ieyasu, for which reason its
+Buddhist emblems have been left intact. The building is a blaze of gold
+and harmonious colors. Stone steps lead up to the exquisitely beautiful
+gate called Yomei-mon; it has a fence on each side. Passing through the
+gateway, we entered the third court, in which the Buddhist priests used
+to offer liturgies on the occasions of the two great annual festivals.
+In this court are also two buildings, one containing a stage for the
+performance of the sacred dance, and the other an altar for burning the
+fragrant cedar while prayers were recited. Next we have the Karu-mon
+or Chinese gate. It gives admittance to the main shrines. The folding
+doors of the oratory are lavishly decorated with arabesques of peonies,
+in gilt relief.
+
+[Illustration: _A five-story pagoda_]
+
+The chapel is a large matted room, forty-two feet long by twenty-seven
+feet deep, with an antechamber at each end. The chapel and the
+antechambers are all very profusely decorated with pictures on the
+walls, with carved panels and painted ceilings. The Holy of Holies of
+this temple is accessible to the public only by special permit. It is
+composed of three chambers, and here Japanese Buddhist art is exhibited
+in its perfection,--a blaze of gold and color, with its elaborate
+paintings of court personages, its precious woods, inlaid and carved,
+and its richly lacquered pillars and splendid metal work--the whole a
+marvel of detail, all the more marvellous because it is in perfect
+preservation. Now that it has been changed into a Shinto shrine and is
+under the patronage of the Government, the Buddhas and attendant Buddhas
+of the olden time are no longer to be seen.
+
+An old mossy staircase and a time-worn pavement lead to Ieyasu's tomb,
+before which stand two long tables. Here are placed the usual bronze
+ornaments, consisting of a stork, an incense burner, and a vase of
+bronze lotus flowers. The tomb, shaped like a small pagoda, has a
+single bronze casting of a light color, produced, it is said, by a
+mixture of gold. Leaving the mausoleum, I passed down through the courts
+and gateways until I came to the avenue of cryptomerias, visiting a
+number of temples on the way, and finally I reached Iemitzu's temple. A
+massive stone staircase and a fine gateway are among the many details of
+an attractive exterior that claim attention. The temple is much less
+magnificent than Ieyasu's, but a more perfect representation of the
+Buddhist art, inasmuch as here can be seen the interior as it was
+originally. After the restoration in 1886, the interiors of all the
+other temples were changed to meet the requirements of the Shinto faith,
+that being the State religion. The tomb is reached by a flight of steps
+running up the side of the wall. It is of the same general style as that
+of Ieyasu. In the afternoon a walk back of the temple of Ieyasu revealed
+more stone lanterns, shrines, and toriis.
+
+At Nikko the homes are attractive, with their open space and their
+verandas. The Park and Botanical Garden are also not without interest.
+Sometimes a shrine could be seen, and with the inmates dressed in pretty
+kimonos, it was truly a fascinating picture, unlike anything that had
+elsewhere struck our fancy. The invariable smile, bow, and courtesy that
+always greet you place a finishing and charming touch to the whole.
+
+[Illustration: _The gate called Yomei-mon_]
+
+The bazar or long street of shops was enticing, with so many souvenirs
+to choose from. The thoroughfare itself presented a never-ending
+panorama of carts, packhorses, natives, pilgrims, and tourists.
+
+There were several tempting excursions of two or three miles each, the
+most celebrated of which was to Lake Chuzenji, eight miles distant. This
+required an early morning departure in a jinrikisha. The ride there was
+through a region which affords a fine example of the Japanese method of
+cultivating the soil. The little homes were attractive. Potatoes, rice,
+and millet seemed to be the principal crops. Chuzenji Lake is a marvel
+of beauty, with its many walks along the shore. Luncheon was served at
+the hotel. It is estimated that ten thousand pilgrims come to the
+village during July and August to make the ascent to the sacred
+mountain, Nantaisan, two thousand feet above the sea-level. This is not
+so very difficult, since at points there are stairways that give ready
+access. Shrines and tea-houses are stationed all along the road, as the
+Japanese never neglect creature comforts. Eight miles further on is
+situated Yunoto village and the lake which bears the same name and is
+celebrated for its hot springs. This place is said to be as attractive
+as Lake Chuzenji. We left Nikko on an early morning train with a strong
+desire some day to return and make a more protracted stay.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TOKIO, _April 30th_: Leaving Nikko, with an altitude of two thousand
+feet higher than the sea, for Tokio, one hundred miles distant and at
+sea-level, was a decided drop. The day was bright and the views from the
+car window gave one an ever-varying panorama, consisting of mountains, a
+long avenue of tall cryptomerias that seemed to extend for miles,
+cultivated fields, and luxuriant vegetation freshened by the recent
+rain. Nature put forth her loveliest Spring tints, to which cherry
+blossoms ever and anon gave a touch of color. Arriving at Tokio in the
+afternoon, and going to the Imperial Hotel, I had a two days' reunion
+with eight of the "party" who had already arrived there. We took a
+general drive on the first afternoon, past the palace built on the ruins
+of the old Shogun palace, in its new guise a long rambling building of
+yellow brick. The old gateways with their towers were at the front
+entrance and were a feature of the scene. The arrangement of the rooms
+in the interior of the palace was said to be pleasing, the dining-room
+being unusually large. The walls and decorations are also fine, but the
+furnishings, a mixture of Japanese and European styles, are not so
+harmonious. We also passed the Crown Prince's palace, and then went on
+from Hibiya Park to the street on which are situated the brick buildings
+of the Naval Department, the Judicial Department, and the Courts of
+Justice.
+
+[Illustration: _The Imperial Palace at Tokio_]
+
+We saw the Russian Embassy, the Chinese Legation, and also some palaces
+and residences of many officers and foreign embassies. This
+neighborhood, called Nagata-cha, is the most fashionable in Tokio. Near
+the palace lies a garden planted with azaleas, and also containing some
+trellises wholly covered in season with wistaria. We also passed a fine
+Shinto temple and several statues, and, on an eminence, saw the Russian
+Cathedral, consecrated in 1891.
+
+The following morning we went to Shiba Park. Until 1887 this formed the
+grounds of a great Buddhist temple, and here are still preserved the
+mortuary temples of several Tokugawa Shoguns, Ieyasu, the founder of
+that dynasty, having chosen it as the temple where the funeral tablets
+of himself and of his descendants should be enshrined. There are several
+temples in the park, and they rank among the chief marvels of Japanese
+art. They are somewhat after the style of the temples at Nikko. All of
+them have a wonderful setting of green, the many fine trees and the
+beautiful park forming an excellent background. Each of these mortuary
+temples consists of three parts, an outer oratory, a connecting
+gallery, and an inner sanctuary. In each of these the decorations are of
+gilt and different colors, with elaborate patterns which are almost
+dazzling to the eye.
+
+On one occasion we visited Ueno Park, famed for its temples and tombs of
+the Shoguns; it is a most popular resort in Tokio, and is celebrated for
+its display of cherry blossoms in the month of April, during which
+season there are held gala times. Six Shoguns, members of the Tokugawa
+family, lie buried at Ueno. In general style the tombs here resemble
+those at Shiba Park.
+
+There are many objects of interest in Ueno Park other than its temples.
+One is the bronze image of Buddha, twenty-one and a half feet high,
+known as Dai-butsu, near which is a massive torii. We passed along an
+avenue of stately cryptomerias where stands an ancient pagoda. There is
+also a long row of very large stone lanterns, presented as a tribute to
+the memory of the Shogun, Ieyasu. While in Ueno Park the attendant
+pointed out, in a small enclosure, two diminutive trees,--a hinoki,
+planted by General Grant, and a magnolia by Mrs. Grant during their
+visit to Tokio.
+
+The Ueno Museum proved interesting, particularly in the historical and
+archæological departments. Near the Museum is a public library and
+reading-room--the largest in the Empire. In the distance we saw the
+Imperial University, which has a very high reputation, even foreign
+students attending there for the purpose of studying art.
+
+[Illustration: _Court of the Temple Shiba at Tokio_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ASAKUSA: The district of Asakusa possesses a fine park, and here also is
+the spacious Temple of Higashi Hongwanji, the chief religious edifice of
+the Monto sect of Buddhists. It is very plain in its architecture, but
+is noted principally for its proportions. The area of the matted floor
+of the nave alone is one hundred and fifty mats, and around the front
+and sides is a wooden aisle one hundred and twelve feet wide.
+
+Tokio has many other temples and parks, but of these, as I have said,
+Ueno is the most popular; around us were crowds of gayly dressed grown
+people and children, all in holiday attire; various games for adults and
+children were in progress, and there was a tea-house where refreshments
+were being served. To me this appeared in very truth a park for the
+people.
+
+The Botanical Garden is also quite interesting. A long, imposing street
+led down to it from Ueno Park, and on this were situated the principal
+shops of the city, with curio nooks in abundance. These, of course, were
+larger and more pretentious than the bazars spoken of elsewhere, some
+of them being three stories in height, the first of the kind we had seen
+in Japan. Taken as a whole, Tokio is a large, populous city, with a
+bright future before it. I now was obliged to turn my face toward
+Yokohama, it being a comparatively short distance from Tokio. Here I
+found a number of friends whom I had met at different points and who
+were about to leave for San Francisco,--my own departure for North China
+to occur the following morning.
+
+To visit North China, I was compelled to return to Shanghai in order to
+join the Collver Tours party I had met at Kyoto. I left Yokohama on
+March 3d by rail for Kobe, arriving at the Oriental Hotel about 9 P.M.
+The route by day was very pleasant, as we saw much fine scenery, and for
+some time Mt. Fujiyama rose before us in the distance. At Kobe I found
+that the steamer, _Mongolia_, would be delayed, and therefore I would
+need to remain there until the second day. The following morning, I took
+a jinrikisha ride to the country and revisited several points of
+interest.
+
+[Illustration: _Gate of Chionin in Kyoto_]
+
+[Illustration: _Ueno Park Pagoda_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_June 6th_: I was awakened at seven on the morning of June 6th by the
+voice of the guide saying, "We are now in the narrowest part of the
+Inland Sea." I arose quickly, and, glancing out of the port-hole,
+beheld a scene of loveliness which caused a spontaneous exclamation,
+"Oh, how beautiful!" Before me on the left was an island clad in
+verdure; behind, the towering mountains; then farther off, a lesser
+peak, sloping down to the sea; a promontory jutted out at the right,
+ribbed with terraces from which peeped forth tiny shoots of delicate
+green. Scarcely had I time to catch a glimpse before the panorama
+changed. This scene was repeated with slight variations until suddenly
+there appeared a break, and in a cove were moored many little boats;
+next came a tall mountain sloping down to the sea, with a wealth of
+foliage along the side, while on the top was a fringe of tall trees,
+like so many hills seen in Japan. I had cause to wonder if this too was
+not one of the many expressions of Nature's artistic sense.
+
+One scene succeeded another, and I became almost oblivious to all
+thought of dressing until the gong rang for breakfast. I felt
+rebellious, and, on that morning at least, the meal seemed a
+desecration, the sacrifice of an opportunity. Once before, I had a
+similar early morning experience; that was at Laggan, on the Canadian
+Pacific Railway, when, on awakening, I beheld directly opposite my
+window lovely Lake Louise and the beautiful glacier mirrored within the
+opalescent blue. This day in Japan ended with a glorious sunset, and,
+as the gold and azure melted away into nothingness, it was a fitful
+close to hours of rare enjoyment.
+
+On the morning following, I was again awakened, this time by the magic
+word Nagasaki, and I beheld another never-to-be-forgotten scene. The
+harbor and shipping lay in the foreground; beyond the shore line rose
+large buildings, smaller ones creeping up the mountain side; this whole
+panorama was bathed in sunlight. Immediately on landing a jinrikisha
+ride was enjoyed, and I was propelled about in an aimless fashion,
+enjoying the street scenes, visiting the heights, and the Horse's
+Temple. It was a restless, irresponsible kind of day that I enjoyed, and
+I returned to the steamer at five o'clock with considerable regret. Half
+an hour later we were sailing away for Shanghai; and again we saw
+islands, promontories, and inlets quite like those of the day previous.
+
+On Saturday morning, the 9th, we were anchored at Wusong, waiting for
+the arrival of the health officer. Thereafter we took a ride of an hour
+in the steam launch. Shanghai seemed more European on our second
+arrival, and the Bund on the front more attractive. We made the Palace
+Hotel our destination, and learned with regret of the non-arrival of the
+Trans-Siberian party from Manila. Some steamer friends and other
+acquaintances were at Shanghai, and the time passed pleasantly amongst
+them.
+
+I attended divine service at St. John's Cathedral on Sunday morning, and
+in the evening the delayed party arrived; I was so fortunate as to have
+two home friends among the number.
+
+Monday began by a general tour of sight-seeing for the party; to a
+certain extent I thus went over the ground again, taking jinrikisha
+rides through a portion of the European native city, and visiting the
+entire French concession. French names were on the business houses and
+on many of the streets. This concession is governed by a municipality of
+its own.
+
+Four restful days were passed at Shanghai, and at ten on the evening of
+May 12th, we went to our steamer, the _Tuck-Wo_, for a trip on the
+celebrated Yangtse River. The steamer was large and airy, with pleasant
+decks; everything wore a thoroughly homelike air. The scenery on the
+lower Yangtse is rather flat and disappointing, but in the morning there
+were some vegetation and many agreeable glimpses of life, with vistas of
+modest homes and little patches of cultivated ground around them. The
+shores were covered with tall vegetation which, we were told, grows
+quite tall and is then cut, dried, and used as fuel by the natives. At
+first, during our trip, there had been only a low fringe of trees in the
+distant background; now mountains appeared as a striking variation, and
+thus we had alternating scenes which added to the spatial interest from
+this time on. There were occasional picturesque points and promontories
+that jutted out into the sea; clustering around, were many large and
+smaller craft; once I counted thirty-six in one place.
+
+The steamer anchored at Chang-wang-kong on the second evening, and we
+were permitted to go ashore for two hours. We had noticed a brilliantly
+lighted building, four stories high, every window gleaming and
+presenting an imposing appearance; we naturally expected some artistic
+effect in the interior, but, when we came to visit it, the illusion
+vanished, as the first and second stories were cut up into small rooms,
+each filled with Chinese folk intent upon securing their evening meal;
+adjacent rooms were devoted to the culinary operations. Dirt and
+confusion and odors permeated everywhere, and we declined to ascend to
+the upper story, where the Chinese game of fan-tan was in progress.
+Certain homelike English buildings clung near the water front, and we
+walked through the usual crowded Chinese streets. The town was laid out
+in one long thoroughfare, overlooking the water and sloping backward to
+the lesser mountains. We returned, content with the good cheer aboard
+our steamer, and were soon sailing on.
+
+[Illustration: _The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River_]
+
+We passed Nanking, formerly the southern capital of China and once a
+place of great importance--indeed, a seat of learning and of art. Only
+the distant walls could be seen. A little north of Nanking are located
+two of the Ming tombs.
+
+The following morning, at eleven, we were again permitted to land, this
+time at Wu-ho, quite a large town and evidently the centre for several
+industries. After wandering through a few native streets, we took
+jinrikishas and visited the heights above. Here was situated a fine
+garden filled with rose trees all in bloom, the property of the son of
+the noted statesman, Li Hung Chang. This was said to be one of his many
+palaces; at present he is Minister to England. The afternoon afforded us
+a variety of points of interest to seek out; long low islands, boldly
+defined mountains, an occasional village, and coves filled with shipping
+of all kinds, from the sampan to the five-sail junk. The shores were
+clothed with the wonderful green of Spring, which, to my mind, was
+excelled only by the matchless verdure of Java.
+
+On the morning of May 15th we met with constant surprises; first, there
+was the boldly defined little Orphan Rock, the seat of a Buddhist
+monastery which contained, however, only a small retinue of monks. Two
+hours later, on the left side of the Yangtse River, there appeared for
+the first time a long avenue of trees near the water's edge, while
+beyond it was a range of mountains higher than we had seen. Nestling
+between two mountains which seemed to hug the water was a village with a
+remarkable wall stretching from one peak to the other, and curving down,
+thus encircling the town; this wall had a crenellated edge and was
+perfectly preserved.
+
+The mountain range continued for some time, and then was succeeded by
+the more prevailing flat shore, which soon merged again into mountains.
+Perched high up on a projecting hill, another monastery gleamed white
+through the encircling trees. We sailed onward toward the right, and the
+Captain pointed out on our left the entrance to Lake Poyang, which shone
+in the distance, and rising boldly out of which could be dimly seen the
+greater Orphan Island, where towered a large pagoda said to be two
+hundred and fifty feet high. From now on, the scenery changed rapidly,
+and first one side of the shore and then the other side claimed our
+attention and admiration; the river being very wide, and the steamer
+also constantly changing its course, we were thus given a fine
+opportunity for observation.
+
+[Illustration: _Road to Kaling above Kia-Kiang_]
+
+Our next excitement occurred when we approached Kia-kiang. We first saw
+a high rocky promontory on which a tall seven-story pagoda stood, like
+a veritable sentinel; rounding the point, a long shore line was
+protected by a seawall which stretched to the extreme point of land
+where Kia-kiang is situated. Near the pagoda were homes and native
+buildings, then some business houses; farther back from the shore rose
+another towering pagoda, and farther still another, while a tiny temple
+was perched on an eminence. Embowered in trees, we also found the white
+homes of foreign residents, presumably English. There was a great deal
+of shipping in port which gave evidence of the city's being a business
+centre. Three hours' time was given us on land, but few availed
+themselves of the privilege because of a heavy rain. On leaving
+Kia-kiang a low shore was seen, then a long island, covered with homes
+of a simple kind, with their little gardens; every inch of ground was
+under cultivation. The shades of night soon shut off our view, but at 9
+A.M. we were again anchored--this time at Wu-such. Only the gleaming
+lights in the distance were visible. Two more places were to be passed
+during the night, Wang-tu-kiang and Wen-chou; and Hankow was to confront
+us on the morrow.
+
+The Yangtse River rises three thousand miles away, near Tibet, and
+covers the whole of the Empire; thus far we had traversed six hundred
+miles of it. Despite what we praised, however, we could not help
+longing to meet with the bolder scenery which a longer trip would have
+revealed to us. A heavy rain prevented much sight-seeing at Hankow on
+the first day, which was fortunately Sunday; thus we received our
+initial impressions of the city from the steamer, a view which took in a
+long Bund, fronting the water's edge, and filled with fine buildings,
+evidently of a European style of architecture; we were told that they
+were the different homes of the English, French, and German consulates,
+the French even having a special park attached to theirs. At the extreme
+left were large business houses and a club. Hankow is a great depository
+for tea, and, with the two adjacent cities of Han-yang and Wu-chang, it
+has an immense population, reaching into the millions. Many religious
+denominations are said to be represented in Hankow, but we saw no
+pretentious churches. The harbor or water-front has a stone embankment;
+a large amount of shipping is to be seen, many of the boats being of
+peculiar construction.
+
+[Illustration: _The Hankow bund_]
+
+The following morning, we had a few hours in which to view the city
+before taking the train for Peking. We first visited the native quarter.
+The heavy rain of the previous day caused a great deal of mud, and as we
+attempted to drive through the narrow streets and bazars, the dirt
+floors of the little homes and shops were a sea of mud, while the
+inmates were preparing breakfast and attending to other domestic
+avocations in perfect unconcern; it was certainly not an inspiring
+scene, and the worst native quarter we had visited during our stay in
+China. We did not extend our observation very far, but turned to the
+more attractive Bund, which is about three miles in extent. Here we had
+a nearer view of the consulates, from each of which a street led down to
+the water's edge. In the French concession we noticed the same naming of
+streets and buildings that we had seen in Shanghai; this was also true
+of the German and English concessions, thus making of each a little
+miniature city. There is a fine English club at Hankow, and a long line
+of tea factories called godowns; the odor of tea was distinctly
+noticeable for three blocks. From May to the middle of July the tea
+industry of Hankow is great, and large numbers of dealers and
+speculators interested in the business congregate there.
+
+We took the train at 11 A.M. for Peking, with every expectation of
+arriving there at 4 P.M.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PEKING, _March 18th_: The railway trip from Hankow to Peking is not
+interesting, for it is largely over a vast extent of plain without
+foliage or vegetation. Occasionally we passed small towns with a few
+planted trees. The latter part of the way seemed almost like a desert;
+there being little to observe, one had time to reflect, and, in some
+inscrutable manner, the immensity of China, its extreme age, its teeming
+population, and its unreality, judged by Western standards, began to
+dawn on me. I had previously failed to realize that I was actually in
+China. Having seen the Chinese at several points before reaching
+Hong-Kong, that city with its English environment did not impress me
+greatly. Canton seemed an unrelated place, a kind of a by-play. The
+Shanghai I knew was modern.
+
+As we approached Peking, we caught a glimpse of the Great Wall, a
+massive gray bulk, with the immense corner tower, which produced a
+feeling of awe, standing as though it were an entrance into a city of
+mystery--a walled town of over twenty miles in circumference which was
+virtually the product of four walled cities in one. We were housed in
+the new and spacious Grand Hôtel des Wagons-lits. Our stay was to cover
+just a little over a week; hence vigorous sight-seeing was at once
+inaugurated, and the first impression received was the great age of
+everything that surrounded us.
+
+[Illustration: _The Great Wall at Peking_]
+
+Peking was made the capital of the whole Empire by Mongol Kublai Khan,
+the Wise, a munificent ruler who laid the foundation plan of what we see
+to-day; but the origin of the city dates back some centuries before the
+Christian era. The Ming Dynasty extended over nearly three centuries;
+then China, being threatened by an invasion of the Manchus from the
+north, was aided in her resistance by the Manchus at home, and, through
+a peculiar combination, they secured possession of the throne and have
+held it ever since. The foreign rule is hated by the true Chinese.
+
+The four sections of Peking are: (1) The Forbidden City, called the
+Purple City by the Chinese because formerly only purple mortar was used.
+It consists virtually of a palace and adjacent buildings, and embraces a
+population of nearly six thousand. This portion of the city has for ages
+been closed to foreigners, with the exception of a few months
+immediately after the Boxer trouble in 1900, when excursions to the
+Forbidden City were made, photographs secured, and also a small
+guide-book prepared. (2) The Imperial City surrounds the Forbidden City,
+and is now in great part closed. (3) The Tartar City surrounds the
+Imperial City, and is called the "city within" because it lies within
+the walls. (4) The Chinese or Southern City is south of the Tartar City,
+and extends somewhat beyond it to the east and west.
+
+Next to the Great Wall, the gateways should demand our interest. There
+are several, and Hata-men is the one which we frequently passed through.
+It was always thronged. The most densely crowded entrance, however, was
+the Chinese gate, Chien-men; here, at times, it was almost impossible
+for the jinrikisha to make a passage. The street scenes in Peking are
+wonderful because of their variety, and the length of the streets adds
+to their picturesqueness, although they are not quite so spectacular as
+those of Jeypore, India.
+
+Many different styles of dress are seen. I noticed the long flowing robe
+of the Manchu women, with the Manchu head-dress and a remarkable
+arrangement of hair on a frame, spreading at the back with a sort of
+elongated butterfly effect, and held in place by a bright gold hairpin.
+The bands of hair are brought over in a way to give the impression of
+long loops, and they are decorated with bright flowers. The Manchu women
+are taller than the Chinese women, and walk with a statelier tread, as
+their feet have never been bound, the present Empress many years ago
+having issued an edict prohibiting that custom. The edict is, however,
+evaded, as Chinese fathers and husbands insist that the custom be kept
+up, seeming to imagine that abolishing it would have some peculiar
+effect on the character of the wife, perhaps resulting in
+insubordination. The Chinese women part their glossy black hair in the
+middle, wear it in smooth bands down the side of the forehead, and dress
+it in the back in a great variety of low loops. They also wear
+jewelled and gold hairpins that are really very artistic. Their dress
+consists of the long black sack coat and loose trousers, much like those
+of a man. The children of Peking, unlike those of the Orient, where
+clothes are virtually dispensed with, wear long-sleeved, high-necked
+garments reaching to the feet.
+
+[Illustration: _Hata-men Gate_]
+
+The bazars and shopping streets in Peking were interesting, many of the
+buildings rising four stories in height, and having the same long narrow
+decorated signs that I described in Canton. At intervals along the way
+very high poles are erected, and on these are placed different kinds of
+signs, giving these streets a brilliant appearance. The usual throng of
+dealers and of diverse nationalities are represented, resulting in a
+great deal of bustle and activity, a great deal of noise and dirt. The
+crowds around some of the gateways included rows of vehicles and
+sometimes a group of camels; but the most individual of all conveyances
+is the Peking cart; indeed, I have never seen any inanimate object that
+wore so individual an air, and when viewed in large numbers, their
+appearance is most peculiar. This cart is two-wheeled, with a roof, and
+with sides and back enclosed. One horse is used. In the front opening
+sits the driver, some one usually at his side, while behind him, far in
+the back, may be seen the faces of the occupants peering out. Many of
+the carts used by the ordinary people have no windows or openings on the
+side; others have windows covered with a kind of netting which admits
+some air.
+
+The Llama Temple is considered to be one of the most important places to
+visit; it is in the eastern quarter of the Tartar City. The rule has
+been that just as soon as an emperor ascends the throne, the palace that
+he had previously occupied shall be changed into a temple. Such was the
+origin of the Llama Temple, once presided over by three thousand Mongol
+Llamas, and, at the head of them, a living Buddha. The temple has six
+parts: first the outside gate, then the entrance gate, then a large hall
+of very imposing proportions, in front of this a tablet upon which is
+inscribed the history of Llamaism. Before this tablet rests a bronze
+incense burner eight feet high, and on the southwest wall of the temple
+hangs a picture of the universe, upheld by the four-clawed feet of a
+huge sea-monster with three eyes. There are also three lofty pavilions.
+Beautiful silken rugs used to be laid on the floor of the impressive
+hall, and on the walls were very fine hangings. Many precious articles
+were carried away in 1900, at the time of the Boxer trouble, and some
+may still be hidden.
+
+[Illustration: _Peking girls_]
+
+[Illustration: _Llama Temple_]
+
+There is a colossal Buddha here of very evil countenance, towering three
+stories, and said to be seventy feet high. To those versed in Buddhist
+lore, these buildings are full of interest; it is only within a few
+years that the place has been open to the public. The Llama monks
+present a very impressive appearance at their evening service, with
+their long gowns crossed over, and their high caps like ancient Roman
+casques.
+
+In construction, the Confucian Temple, near by, is similar to all
+Confucian temples throughout China; the hall is eighty-four feet long
+and the teakwood pillars forty feet high. In front there is a marble
+terrace, twenty-eight yards long and fifteen feet wide, reached on three
+sides by seventeen steps. The inscription on the Confucius tablet,
+written in Chinese and Manchu dialects, says: "The tablet of the soul of
+the most holy ancestral teacher, Confucius." Other tablets to noted
+teachers hang on either side. There are rows of cypresses in front of
+the hall said to have been planted one thousand years ago; and on each
+side of the court are buildings containing tablets to over one hundred
+celebrated scholars. A temple court extends in front, with six monuments
+which record foreign conquests by emperors. In the court of the
+Triennial Examinations there is a stone tablet to commemorate each
+session, on which are engraved the names and homes of all students who
+receive the title of Doctor of Literature.
+
+Another unique building, west of the Confucius Temple, is the Hall of
+the Classics. Here there is a richly decorated pailow, with encaustic
+tiles, chiefly green and yellow; the three archways are lined with white
+marble. This hall was designed by the Emperor, Chien Lung, to complete
+the Confucius Temple, in which till then the classics had been
+expounded. It is lofty and square, with double eaves, yellow tiles,
+surmounted by a specially large gilt ball, and encircled by a fringe
+carried to the roof and supported by massive wooden pillars. In the
+centre is a circular pool of water, edged by marble balustrades, with a
+bridge spanning it. There is also a remarkable sun-dial. Two hundred
+upright stone monuments engraved on both sides contain the complete text
+of the nine classics, very finely executed; it was thought thus to
+preserve the purity of the text. There are also more lists of successful
+students on stone monoliths.
+
+The Drum Tower was another point visited, one of the most striking
+objects in Peking; it is oblong and quite Chinese in character, the
+upper story being of wood, the lower of brick. It is one hundred feet
+high and about the same in length toward the base. It was built under
+the Mongol dynasty; a very large drum stands in the middle of the last
+story, and a climb of sixty-eight steps up a steep Chinese staircase
+gave us a fine view of the entire city. A short distance from the Drum
+Tower is the Bell Tower. This is built of brick and stone, ninety feet
+high, and is also Mongol in origin; the bell weighs twenty thousand
+pounds and is still used to tell the watches of the night; the drum in
+the tower is struck at the same time.
+
+[Illustration: _A Peking cart_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Confucius Temple_]
+
+[Illustration: _Temple of Classics_]
+
+Some Chinese authority states that there are ten thousand temples in
+Peking, all built under the Mongol dynasty (thirteenth century), or the
+Ming dynasty (fifteenth and sixteenth centuries). Of these, the most
+striking is the Temple or Altar of Heaven in the southern part of the
+Chinese City, erected by the Ming Emperor, Yung-loh, in 1421; the
+enclosure, a fine park, measures about six thousand feet around. There
+are three large, imposing gates,--south, east, and west. To the north,
+the wall is crescent shaped and is without an entrance. The Altar or
+Temple of Heaven, open to the sky, is circular and of white marble. It
+is three stories high; the base measures two hundred and ten feet
+across, the second story one hundred and fifty feet, the third ninety
+feet. One large marble slab is in the centre. The white marble
+balustrades are richly carved to represent clouds. In the upper story,
+there are seventy-two pillars; in the middle, one hundred and eight; and
+in the lower, one hundred and eighty; thus making, in all, three hundred
+and sixty, the number of degrees in a circle. It is on the central
+marble slab that the Emperor stands and prostrates himself, worshipping
+under the blue arch of heaven. He goes three times a year to this
+temple, praying before daybreak, and having spent the previous night in
+the Grand Hall of Abstinence close by.
+
+Between this and the closed Altar of Heaven, there is the small Temple
+of Prayer, where the ancestral tablets are kept, capped by one of the
+most remarkable roofs in Peking. This temple is a gem; its bricks and
+tiles are of the finest porcelain, and everything dates from the best
+period of Chinese art. The northern Temple of Heaven has a three-fold
+roof of blue tiles, recently rebuilt, the early one having been burned
+down. There are magnificent columns in this, and the ceiling is very
+elaborate. Before leaving the enclosure at the left of the gateway, we
+went through a large palace not in use at the present time, except on
+rare occasions; this was not in the itinerary, but our guide secured
+admission by paying a generous fee. Only a few rooms were furnished, but
+these were in excellent taste.
+
+[Illustration: _The Inner Temple of Heaven_]
+
+We next drove to the Altar or Temple of Agriculture. This is where
+General Chaffee and the American troops were quartered after the relief
+of Peking in 1900. The hall is the largest in the city, but there is
+nothing special to see in it. The rites observed here are nearly as
+important as those at the Temple of Heaven. The enclosure is two miles
+in circumference. The first two altars are rectangular; that of the
+Spirits of Heaven, on the east, is fifty feet long and four and one-half
+feet high; and the marble tablets therein contain the names of the
+celebrated mountains, lakes, and seas of China. On the first day of the
+second period of Spring, the Emperor goes there with three princes, nine
+great men, and a numerous following, all of them understood to be
+fasting. After they have worshipped, they proceed to the field which has
+been prepared; the bullock, the plough, and other accessories are all of
+Imperial yellow. The Emperor traces a furrow from east to west;
+returning four times, he thus makes eight furrows. The First Minister of
+the Treasury stands on the right with a whip, the Viceroy of the
+Province on the left with the grain, while a third official scatters the
+seed behind the Emperor. The three Princes each plough ten furrows, and
+so the work proceeds through all the dignitaries, according to their
+rank. The afternoon was one of the most interesting we spent in Peking,
+the temperature being perfect like our own June at home; all Nature was
+in harmony with the scene.
+
+The Observatory was formerly one of the most distinctive sights in
+Peking. It affords a magnificent view towards the south of the wall of
+the Tartar City. The wonderful bronze instruments therein have outlived
+their usefulness, but their artistic merit makes them a glory and a joy.
+The Examination Hall was formerly situated close by the site of the
+Observatory, but when we were there it was being dismantled. The old
+method of examination is being given up, and the reform is one of the
+progressive changes in Peking, upsetting the precedent of ages. The
+examination of students is now carried on very much as it is in other
+countries.
+
+Leaving the city, we drove some miles along the outskirts to the Yellow
+Temple. There are two temples, the eastern and the western; and, in
+front, are two very beautiful pavilions. Chien Lung repaired the western
+temple and changed it into a dwelling for Mongol princes, who arrived
+each year to pay their tribute. This is one of the finest buildings in
+China; it has great size, beautiful proportions, and a square entrance
+porch; but, since its occupation in 1900 by some of the Allied Forces,
+it has begun to fall into ruins. The eastern temple is in good
+condition, and critics claim that its proportions surpass those of any
+temple in Japan. The magnificent white marble monument or pagoda was
+erected by Chien Lung over the grave of the Teshu Llama who died of
+small-pox while on a visit there. On the eight sides of the memorial
+are engraved scenes in the Llama's life; these bas-reliefs are very
+interesting. The great White Temple is the most beautiful monument in
+the environs of Peking, and it is well worth the long drive to see it.
+On our return, we passed through the usual number of gates, from the
+Chinese to the Tartar, and from the Tartar to the Imperial; only a small
+portion of this latter section can be seen, but we caught glimpses of
+the many lovely buildings in the Forbidden City, and it was most
+tantalizing not to be able to enter the sacred precincts. From a sketch
+taken in 1900, we can form an idea of the many interesting points in
+this Forbidden City. The Imperial City, enclosing the Forbidden City, is
+over five miles in circumference; its walls are eighteen feet high, with
+four entrances about seventy feet wide. There are three gates, the
+central one of which is reserved for the Emperor. People are allowed to
+look in, but not to enter by this southern gate; the northern and
+eastern gates are open to the public.
+
+[Illustration: _Outer Heaven, Temple of Heaven, Peking_]
+
+One view in the Forbidden City is that of the Coal Hall, two hundred and
+ten feet high. It dates from the Mongol dynasty, when coal is said to
+have been piled up there as a provision in case of siege, the Ming
+Emperor having covered it all with beautiful pavilions.
+
+Beyond the wall to the north is the Hall of Longevity, where the
+Emperor's coffin remains after his death and until his funeral.
+
+The White Dagoba is conspicuous in all Peking views; it is within the
+gardens which are reserved for the court, and was built by the first
+emperor of the present dynasty as a shrine for a very fine Buddha. The
+White Dagoba is regarded as the palladium of the Empire, and stands at
+the very centre of the loveliest part of the palace grounds. A little
+farther to the west is found the finest pailow in Peking, made of very
+beautiful encaustic tiles; and behind a neighboring hillock rests the
+celebrated dragon screen, sixty feet long and twenty feet high; it was
+built to protect the library, which was unfortunately burned during the
+occupation of the allied forces in 1900.
+
+A noticeable feature is the Temple of Ten Thousand Buddhas, all of
+glittering Imperial yellow, the walls covered with animals and small
+images of Buddha. The three lakes, northern, middle, and southern, are a
+little over two miles long; a beautiful marble bridge connects the
+northern with the middle lake.
+
+[Illustration: _The White Pagoda of the Yellow Temple_]
+
+The Winter or Skating Palace was distinctive for the finest wood
+carvings in China; these were also burned by accident in 1900. A large
+pavilion, surrounded by a circular wall, is near the marble bridge. In
+this pavilion is the throne, and it was there audience was given to
+several European ambassadors in 1893; there also the Emperor puts on
+mourning garments,--when, for instance, he had to grieve for his father,
+Prince Chan. At the northeast corner of the palace stands the fine
+yellow-tiled temple, with an imposing entrance; it has large gates,
+within the outer of which are two very quaint pavilions. Four or five
+roofs are piled, one on the other, and these can be distinctly seen from
+outside the walls of the Forbidden City. This brief outline may give one
+a little idea of what the public are deprived of seeing. Most of the
+buildings of the Forbidden City are yellow-tiled, as are also the walls.
+
+The Summer Palace is the only one of the Peking buildings that dates
+from the present Manchu dynasty. There had previously been a palace
+there, but it had a long while since fallen into decay. It is said to
+have had lovely gardens, and many canals winding in and out, while in
+other places little miniature lakes are formed. The principal palace is
+attractive and rises on an eminence, but there are pavilions and lesser
+buildings scattered about. The present palace is, however, very inferior
+to those royal residences of olden times; it suffered greatly in 1900;
+the Russian soldiers seemed to take delight in destroying works of art
+and historic buildings. Some of the marble bridges are very effective,
+and there is a marble boat, not in itself very beautiful, but a
+picturesque feature as it lay anchored by the lake. We saw it from a
+high hill beyond the Emperor's palace, where is located a Buddhist
+pagoda. We had a view of the palace with its enclosure and its minor
+buildings.
+
+This was one feature seen during an excursion which a friend and I took,
+escorted by a guide and a picnic luncheon basket on Saturday, May 25th.
+We left the hotel early for a six-mile drive, passing first through the
+crowded streets, again noting the dusty way of the Imperial City, which
+wound around near the walls of the Forbidden City, every pinnacle and
+roof gleaming in the morning light. Leaving the outskirts of the town,
+the country view was the pleasantest we had seen. Our road lay alongside
+of the canal, where there were more trees and less dust.
+
+On the way we first visited the Five Pagoda Buddhist Temple, which seems
+to belong to a different world from that of to-day. It is a square mass
+of masonry fifty feet high, covered with old colored tiles and with
+beautiful reliefs of camels. On its flat top there are five pagodas,
+each eleven stories high; also, adjacent to it, a very elegant square
+pagoda, and, in front of it, what seems like the top of another large
+pagoda. Farther on, we saw the Ten Thousand Buddha Temple; it is not
+remarkable architecturally, and there are two large spacious
+buildings with a court between them. One of them consists of two
+stories, in both of which is a large room lined with little compartments
+containing small gilt Buddhas. The guide said there was a total of nine
+hundred and ninety-nine already, and the thousandth place was reserved
+for the Dowager Empress when she died.
+
+[Illustration: _The Winter Palace of the Forbidden City_]
+
+[Illustration: _View from the Forbidden City_]
+
+We drove on to the village, adjacent to the Summer Palace, where we took
+jinrikishas for a ride of about two miles, following along the outskirts
+of the Summer Palace. Here were some temples, evidently not now used as
+places of worship, since the guide informed us that our luncheon would
+be served in the open court of one of them. After our impromptu meal we
+proceeded to walk about half a mile farther and then ascended an
+eminence with several flights of stairs leading to the pagoda which I
+have previously alluded to. We obtained, not only a view of the Summer
+Palace, but of the surrounding country. The little pagoda was several
+stories high, and very tasteful in all its appointments; it is said to
+have been built in commemoration of some event, but the guide could give
+us no exact information. We retraced our way to the city, and then drove
+through certain streets in order to enjoy the peculiar life around us.
+
+The three or four miles stretching between the Chien-men and Hata-men
+gates on that Saturday afternoon surpass description. The Emperor's
+middle gate barred out the crowds; this opened on a somewhat discolored
+bridge, with fine carving and artistic balustrades, but the eye does not
+like to linger here long on account of the crowds of beggars everywhere
+visible; indeed, the hordes of women, children, vehicles, and
+processions of every variety seemed incredible. Funeral cortèges in
+particular were very doleful; discordant music preceded the funeral car,
+and the crowds of paid mourners in motley dress, many of them picked up
+off the street for the occasion, were a new and distasteful feature. We
+saw on that trip three of these funerals, all similarly arranged, but
+only one modest wedding procession. The bride sat in a red silk-covered
+chair or palanquin, surrounded by friends; the usual attempts were made
+at music. Whether the happy lady was Manchu or Chinese we were unable to
+determine, the curtains being carefully drawn.
+
+This thoroughfare, between the two gates alluded to, is famous for its
+gayly decorated shops with long, ornamented signs and banners flying in
+every direction. There are many such streets in Peking, and a few shady
+residence thoroughfares, but our way usually led through the congested
+sections. Pailows, where streets are crossed at right angles, are
+interesting, and they have usually commemorative arches; and
+sometimes the business houses of the locality bear their name, as the
+Four Pailow Shop.
+
+[Illustration: _Marble Terrace of the Summer Palace_]
+
+[Illustration: _Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace_]
+
+Legation Street is the home for ambassadors and ministers, and is a
+decided contrast to the majority of native streets. Many of the foreign
+buildings are fine, the grounds large, with imposing gateways, over
+which may be seen the coat of arms of the country which is represented.
+The British Legation was formerly a palace. In the grounds is the
+English Chapel; here we attended service on Sunday. Our hotel was nearly
+opposite the British Embassy; hence, in going in or out, we usually
+touched Legation Street.
+
+A notable excursion from Peking is to the Great Wall and the Ming tombs.
+The Wall we were to see was not the original one, built in 215 B.C., but
+an inner wall of the seventh century, which had still later been rebuilt
+by the Ming emperors. We left in the morning for the Nankow Hotel, where
+we were to pass the night. On our way to the Peking station, we saw the
+Emperor, _en route_ from his Summer Palace to the city, in a yellow silk
+sedan chair, numerously attended by persons also robed in yellow. After
+luncheon at Nankow, we took sedan chairs ourselves for a twenty-six-mile
+ride to the Great Wall through the Nankow Pass. The long processions of
+guides and chairs were very picturesque, and there were also extra
+attendants as a necessary relay. The road was rather rough and very
+dusty, and our progress was therefore slow. Our roadway wound along,
+sometimes near a mountain, which lay on one side, with the valley on the
+other. The first gateway or arch we passed through was profusely
+decorated, having as a frieze a row of six Buddhas to right and left,
+and large Chinese figures below. Farther on, we came to another gateway,
+and then to another, the Pa-ta-ling, thirteen miles from Nankow and the
+top of the Nankow Pass. From every side long vistas could be seen; then
+portions of the Wall winding in and out, and ever and anon a massive
+watch tower looming forth.
+
+We left our chairs and walked a considerable way up the mountain side to
+the ruined watch towers; the one I entered was a large oblong building,
+with six windows and two doorways; farther on was another similar watch
+tower, and, at a greater distance, another. These add greatly to the
+picturesqueness of the wide massive wall--wide enough for two or three
+persons to ride abreast. Taken altogether, the view from the Nankow Pass
+is one of the most magnificent I have ever seen, and, of course,
+entirely unlike any other. It was a glorious day, and all the elements
+seemed to conspire to make it a perfect occasion.
+
+[Illustration: _Nankow Pass_]
+
+Resuming our chairs, we proceeded to retrace our steps; and in about an
+hour we stopped at a little hamlet for an afternoon collation furnished
+by our very thoughtful Director. The shades of night were beginning to
+fall when we resumed our journey, and erelong darkness overtook us. We
+were all more or less separated, as the guides made no attempt to keep
+together; and the sensation of being propelled by natives who did not
+speak one word of English was very peculiar and uncomfortable.
+
+We arrived at the hotel about nine in the evening; a late dinner
+followed, and we separated with the expectation of meeting in the
+morning at five, for the departure to the Ming tombs. This is a distance
+of eight miles, or sixteen there and back to Nankow. The cavalcade left
+in the same fashion as on the day previous. Our way led us over the
+hills,--an irregular roadway, first through a field and past two little
+villages. We then came to a magnificently carved pailow of white marble,
+fifty feet high, eighty feet wide, and divided into five openings by
+square pillars. Half a mile farther on stands the Red Gate; and there
+was formerly a beautiful pavilion of white marble, supported on four
+carved columns. It may be well to state before proceeding, that there
+are in this vicinity, within a few miles of each other, thirteen Ming
+tombs, the Ming dynasty preceding the present one. Yung-lohi is
+considered the finest of the group, and this was now to be our objective
+point. Half a mile beyond the pailow already alluded to is the Red Gate.
+Next is the Holy Way. From here on for about half a mile, there is a
+regular procession of animals and persons, all cut out of bluish marble
+monoliths, remarkable for their workmanship and for their great size,
+which causes one to speculate how they could have been brought from the
+quarry. First, there are two columns decorated with sculptured clouds,
+two lions couchant, two lions rampant. Then, in similar manner, four
+camels, four elephants, and so on. After this come four military
+officials, four civil officials, four celebrated men, each made from a
+single block of marble, standing on opposite sides of the way, and all
+wearing the old Ming dress used by the Chinese before the Manchus
+introduced their own costumes.
+
+Leaving the Holy Way, we passed through another arch, and came out on a
+street formerly paved with marble slabs. At some distance to one side,
+we saw two of the Ming tombs alluded to. We passed three marble bridges,
+one of seven arches, very much broken down. Two miles farther on, there
+is the principal enclosure around Yung-loh's tomb; it has a pavilion
+protecting a huge tablet with white marble steps and railings carved
+to represent clouds, phoenix, and dragons. Beyond lies the great hall,
+seventy yards long by thirty yards wide, and supported upon eight rows
+of teakwood pillars, four in each row, measuring twelve feet in
+circumference and sixty feet high. This is a typical ancestral hall. Our
+luncheon was served to us here.
+
+[Illustration: _A tower of the Great Wall_]
+
+[Illustration: _Five Arch: First pailow of the Ming Tomb_]
+
+Passing through another great yard planted with cypresses and oaks, a
+way cut into solid masonry leads up to the carefully closed door of the
+tomb. This passage divides into two branches, both leading to a long
+flight of steps which mount to the top of the terrace, where,
+immediately above the coffin passage, is an immense upright slab bearing
+an inscription. The mound on which this tomb is placed is half a mile in
+circuit, and, though artificial, looks natural, being planted with
+cypresses and oaks to the very top. The emperors used to come in the
+Spring and Autumn to sacrifice at these ancient graves, but for two
+centuries this duty has been left to a descendant of the Ming emperors.
+
+There were different features to each of the Ming tombs, but, having
+seen the representative one, we were content to return to Nankow, as we
+were to take the afternoon train for Peking. While the trip to the Great
+Wall and the Ming tombs is somewhat fatiguing, the interest is so great
+as to reward one for the exertion.
+
+We went our individual ways the last day in Peking, I to the Chinese
+City in pursuit of a mandarin coat for a friend. After passing through
+block after block in a chaotic condition, dirt and debris of all kinds
+flung everywhere, I left the chair and walked quite a distance through
+lane-like passages to the place designated, where I found that the
+dealer had transferred all his embroideries to the hotel in which we
+were staying, and that the said coat was probably in the collection I
+had looked at the previous evening. Having devoted two hours to the
+pursuit, I was somewhat discomfited. I then hurried to some of the
+streets leading off from Beggars' Bridge, a place which is, as its name
+suggests, the headquarters for beggars. Strange as it may seem, there is
+a guild of beggars in Peking, with an acknowledged king; their
+profession in the East is a fine art. There are interesting
+thoroughfares leading out from this bridge,--one, a Curio Street, where
+every conceivable article can be found, and the other, Bookseller
+Street. This last was a disappointment, as I was told that rare editions
+could be had; but through the interpreter, I learned that the conditions
+of the city had been altered since the Boxer Rebellion in 1890. Indeed,
+that fearful event was the cause of many changes in Peking and of great
+suffering as well. The story of the conflict as related by an eyewitness
+was very thrilling. Certain portions of the city at the present time
+consist of naught but ruins, such as the foreign mission buildings and
+the eastern and southern cathedrals, one of which was in process of
+renovation. The Legation quarter has been mostly rebuilt.
+
+[Illustration: _Emperor Yunglo's tomb_]
+
+The cause of the Boxer Rebellion was everywhere given in Peking as
+having been instigated by the Dowager Empress and her sympathizers. No
+one can visit the city without receiving some definite impression of
+this wonderful woman, who for years has dominated all other
+authority--violating traditions considered sacred, and ruling with an
+imperious hand. For the Emperor only sympathy was felt. Of a refined,
+sensitive nature, but not strong physically, he seems to be a man of
+intelligence and of broad ideas. This was shown in 1898, when he
+announced that he intended to rule as other emperors did--to visit
+throughout his Empire; he even projected a railway journey to Tientsin
+in September, and planned many innovations. This was accomplished in
+conjunction with a few kindred spirits belonging to the so-called Reform
+Party in China.
+
+Soon after, the Empress seemingly acquiesced in the plan of reform, and
+announced that she too was interested in progress; but, whether sincere
+or not, erelong the tables were turned; six of the Emperor's advisers
+were beheaded, and the seventh, an intimate friend of the Emperor,
+advised in time, left the country. Then the Empress had the Emperor
+confined, and she was proclaimed his successor; but the open
+intervention of the Allied Powers caused him to be returned to the
+throne. It is said that for ten years he has been an invalid. Can any
+one wonder, knowing the constant espionage and continual opposition to
+which he has been subjected? After two years' contemplating of the
+beauties of the court, Emperor Kwang Su was married, very much against
+his will, however (preferring another), to the niece of the Dowager
+Empress, the beautiful Yohonola; her photograph proves this to be a true
+statement. For her has been reserved the sad fate of remaining
+childless, and, in consequence, she is kept in the background and rarely
+ever mentioned. Tsze Hsi An is really one of the most remarkable women
+in the world's history. Of very humble origin, and uneducated, she, on
+the birth of her son, became the reigning Emperor's wife of the second
+rank. At his death and also at the death of her superior, she became
+regent during the minority of her son, and on his death violated
+traditions (the law prohibiting succession to one of the same generation
+as the dead ruler), and had the nephew of the deceased Emperor
+proclaimed, she reigning as regent until his majority and virtually
+thereafter.
+
+[Illustration: _Emperor Kwangsu of China_]
+
+Since 1900 the Empress has shown a desire to meet ladies of other
+nationalities in audience, and an American woman who had lived
+thirty-five years in Japan and China told me that the only thing
+required was an official endorsement by the Secretary of State (if
+American). Her failing health, however, during the past year caused an
+entire cessation of social courtesies. A woman of remarkably strong
+character, dominant will, and unscrupulous as to methods, she is the
+most perfect example, in juxtaposition, of the masculine woman, as the
+Emperor is of the feminine man.
+
+We observed many things about the Chinese of to-day that point to
+progress, however slow. The schools, for instance, are modelled on a
+much broader basis; there is more independence in journalism; Chinese
+athletics are also coming into vogue, where they were formerly held in
+contempt; Young Men's Christian Associations flourish in various places,
+and fine work is being done by the many foreign missionary
+organizations. I heard much comment made concerning the American
+missions; their work along educational lines and in the way of hospitals
+was specially commended. Even Li Hung Chang, though a Confucian,
+testified to their value, as have other prominent Manchus. The mission
+movement in general is being regarded as a great sociological force
+which, though working slowly, tends to a higher condition of life.
+
+All the signs of the times indicate that China and the United States are
+destined some day to come into closer relations with each other
+socially, intellectually and of course commercially, as self-interest is
+a great factor in the furtherance of any attitude. One of the means to
+this end is the Chinese student in American colleges and schools; the
+number is, however, very much smaller than in England, while five
+thousand men are entered in Japanese colleges and schools, on account of
+the nearer proximity of Japan and consequently the less expense.
+
+Mention is constantly being made of the Reform Party in China, and hints
+at revolution are even heard. On this point it is well to quote an
+extract from "China and America of To-day." The authority says: "The
+Chinese people have no right to legislation; they have no right of
+self-taxation. They have not the power of voting out their rulers, or of
+limiting or stopping their supplies; they have therefore the right of
+rebellion. Rebellion is, in China, the old, often exercised, legitimate,
+and constitutional means of stopping arbitrary and vicious legislation
+and administration." Will it be necessary to resort to revolution in
+order to effect needed reforms? Time alone will determine.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _The Dowager Empress of China_]
+
+TIENTSIN, _May 26th_: We left Peking in the morning, and reached
+Tientsin at 11 A.M., going to the Imperial Hotel, where we were to
+remain two days. After luncheon we took a drive, first to the native
+city. There remains of the old walls and two fine gateways, which stand
+as reminders of an historic past, are to be seen. The street groups and
+bazars were similar to those observed in other cities, but far less
+interesting than those in Peking. The native city is said to number from
+six hundred thousand to a million persons; and yet, so extended and
+complete is the ground covered by the different foreign concessions,
+numbering less than four thousand persons, that they virtually represent
+the Tientsin of to-day; the British concession alone sets the tone to
+the city, with its fine business blocks. In Memorial Hall, dedicated to
+General Gordon, the municipal offices of the concession are located. The
+fine Public Garden is the centre, three times a week, of a military band
+concert, which attracts a large attendance and makes a brilliant scene,
+with its myriad electric lights. This feature of Tientsin life was
+introduced long ago by Viceroy Li Hung Chang, early in his term of
+office (1870-1891); and he is said to have paid for the instruction of
+the first military band. The building of the Industrial Association is
+popularly called "pigs in clover," and we learned from actual
+experience that the name was truly applied, as we had to make the long
+weary round before we could secure an exit.
+
+On Victoria Road there are many private residences, and an imposing
+English Club edifice in the midst of large and attractive grounds.
+
+The morning of the second day was devoted to incidental things; in the
+afternoon we attended a Chinese theatre which was similar to the one we
+had seen in Hong-Kong, only actors, who were grotesque acrobats, now
+took the place of the previous ballet-dancers. In the evening we
+attended a fine concert in the Public Gardens. The music was furnished
+by the Cameron Guards in Highland costume. It was a fine opportunity to
+see the English contingent, and from the Astor House across the way came
+ladies in evening dress; hats and wraps were also in evidence; and, in
+the rear, were files of soldiers of various nations from the different
+concessions.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SHANHAIKWAN, _May 29th_: The following morning, we left for Shanhaikwan;
+we arrived in the evening, and went to a very comfortable railway hotel.
+The following morning, we made an excursion to the mountains and caught
+a glimpse of the Great Wall a long distance off; in one direction a
+valley; beyond that, hills; then mountains extending tier after tier,
+until the last faded away in the distant horizon. This wall is a
+continuation of the one visited in Peking, and formerly ended at the
+sea-line in Shanhaikwan, but the ravages of time and the devastation of
+man have carried away much of it.
+
+[Illustration: _Gordon Hall at Tientsin_]
+
+[Illustration: _Old gateway of Tientsin_]
+
+We had left our chairs at a small place, said to be a Taoist temple, and
+had also passed the ruins of another temple, showing the isolated places
+selected by the early fathers for their centres of worship. After
+roaming about, we returned to the first temple, and around an improvised
+table, in plain view of the altar, we were served with a substantial
+luncheon brought from the hotel. Our return trip was over a different
+route, in order to secure a finer view of the Wall, some ruined towers,
+and parapets.
+
+Later, we passed through two imposing gateways, and noted the great
+thickness of the Wall which, broken off, showed a brick exterior filled
+with earth. The way through the native town assured us of the usual
+Chinese life and bazars, Shanhaikwan having only a small European
+population. It was the scene of much activity during the Boxer
+Rebellion, and the regiments of several nations had posts or forts
+there, the English and Japanese even now continuing to maintain a small
+body-guard. In the afternoon we took a ride in a diminutive horse-car on
+a narrow-gauge road to the sea, four miles distant, where we found a
+sandy beach and bathhouses. This is a favorite resort for the Summer
+guests of the Shanhaikwan Hotel. Peitaho, which is situated back of
+Shanhaikwan in the mountains, has a large Summer colony from Peking and
+Tientsin, many of whom own their homes. At Shanhaikwan we had the
+pleasure of meeting Judge and Mrs. Charles Smith of Manila, and listened
+to many interesting experiences connected with life in the Philippines.
+Shanhaikwan is on the border between China and Manchuria.
+
+We had been in Manchuria all day with an uninteresting landscape as
+regards variety,--plains, a few trees, and a little verdure stretched
+far away. Much of the land, however, was tilled, it being Springtime in
+this far-away country; and an occasional group of trees indicated what
+time and irrigation may accomplish in the way of agricultural results.
+At every station armed soldiers were on guard. Various theories were
+advanced to account for this; one said that brigands infested the
+country; another claimed that there might be danger of destruction to
+the track, this being the Southern Japanese-Manchurian Railway, which
+was running through an alien country. The right to this road and a strip
+of land each side of the track was secured by Japan either by treaty or
+by lease from China at the close of the Russian-Japanese war. Chan Chow
+was the largest station passed. Hsin Min was the scene of a conflict
+between the Russians and Japanese, and at the present time soldiers are
+still stationed there.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MUKDEN, _May 30th_: Our next point to be visited was Mukden. The trip
+was not in our original itinerary, and we had some difficulty in
+securing it, as the Director felt that we could not obtain good hotel
+accommodations. We all, however, promised to accept uncomplainingly any
+condition which the situation offered. Nevertheless, we felt a little
+anxious about the result, as we were the first tourist party to invade
+Mukden, the capital of Manchuria, and also the old capital when it was
+an independent country and not, as now, a province.
+
+At the King-jo Hotel, under Japanese management, we found six rooms
+furnished in supposed European style; these opened on upper and lower
+galleries and were comfortable. They really formed an annex in order to
+entice stray European guests. The entire household was Japanese, without
+any knowledge of the English language, so pantomime became our means of
+communication, and there were many amusing mistakes made on both sides.
+The utmost good-humor prevailed, however, and the atmosphere of the
+place was altogether pleasant.
+
+The morning following our arrival, we rode in jinrikishas to the tomb of
+a Ming emperor. There are two of these tombs located at Mukden. We
+visited only one; it is four miles from the city, and beautifully
+located in a parklike enclosure. We entered at the side, through a long
+avenue of trees, the front entrance never being opened; there were two
+tall columns with grotesque figures of animals on top; then a lion on
+each side, seated on heavy pedestals. A three-arched pailow had a very
+massive carved cornice and entablature; on the cornice and on each
+division of the arch were seated immense carved lions; similar ones were
+also on the reverse side of the arch and on the ends, making ten in all,
+and adding to the impressiveness of the whole.
+
+We now entered the sacred avenue, lined on each side with ten large
+stone animals. The path was much shorter than that visited in Nankow,
+and the carving of the animals was less perfect. The avenue ended with a
+gateway of three arches, which we did not pass through, but which
+contained a memorial tablet mounted on a huge tortoise; beyond this
+there was a long oblong building with an effective terrace roof; doors
+were placed in each corner of the walled enclosure. At the back rose an
+immense mound which covers the tomb. From a high tower overlooking the
+mound, we had a view of the entire enclosure.
+
+[Illustration: _The Temple at Mukden_]
+
+The palace at Mukden is a large, imposing pile, built in 1631. There are
+many different buildings, all in the peculiar Chinese style with
+upturned eaves; these were barricaded while renovation was going on,
+and we could obtain glimpses of the interior only through cracks in the
+wall. The rooms were large and contained some wall decoration, while the
+whole effect was fine, in spite of all the inconveniences experienced in
+trying to see them; debris was everywhere. In one building the doors and
+windows were sealed with paper strips placed over them; this was the
+receptacle for valuable jewels and fine brocaded robes of royalty. We
+were first refused admission, but, on our return from the rounds of the
+palace, by some magical process (probably a large fee), a door was
+opened, and we entered and saw a wonderful display of rich gems,
+somewhat barbaric in style, fine swords, daggers, robes, and other
+paraphernalia.
+
+The bazars in Mukden were not unlike those throughout China in their
+arrangement, but containing not nearly so attractive a display of goods.
+The population seemed mixed, judging from the type of faces and from the
+head-dress of the women, some of them having the plain, smooth
+arrangement of the hair, while others followed the peculiar Manchu
+style. Mukden owes its present celebrity to the Russian-Japanese war, as
+several battles were fought around it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_June 1st_: The following day, we took our departure for Niuchwang. We
+had been told that our route would be over historic battlegrounds, and
+we soon realized this, for, after leaving Mukden, we saw the monument
+erected by the Japanese Government as a memorial to the memory of the
+Japanese soldiers who fell in a desperate engagement, March 13th, 1905.
+This was the battle of Shio-ho, one of the worst of the war. General
+Kuropatkin headed the Russians, while Generals Kuroki and Nogi were on
+the Japanese side. The Russians were vanquished and were forced to
+retreat to Karpan. Later we came to a large place, formerly a Russian
+city, Lara-yang, which was taken by the Japanese, and now seems in a
+prosperous condition. A large rocky mountain, passed later on, was the
+scene of a desperate attempt of the Japanese to dislodge the Russians,
+and here eight thousand of the former lost their lives. At one point a
+tall granite monument was raised to the memory of ten thousand Japanese
+soldiers, all of which gave us a realizing sense of the horrors of the
+conflict. Later, these warlike reminders ceased, and the landscape
+showed broad, well-cultivated fields; indeed, the Manchuria of to-day,
+as far as we could determine, seems a fertile plain; and while a coarser
+cereal is now raised, it seemed possible that this might become a great
+wheat-producing land with proper cultivation.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NIUCHWANG: When near Niuchwang, we came to the city of Shai-seng, and
+saw the long lines of Russian barracks which are now occupied by the
+Japanese. We reached our destination late in the evening, and had a
+jinrikisha ride of over an hour before turning to the Central Hotel,
+which had been greatly damaged by fire, but which we persuaded our
+Director to select for us. Our surroundings were not luxurious, but a
+fairly good dinner awaited us.
+
+In the morning we had a delightful surprise. A call of the Director at
+the English Club the evening previous had resulted in an invitation
+extended to the entire party to breakfast at the residence of Mr. Henry
+A. Bush, of Bush Brothers, a noted firm in the East. Never was an
+invitation more gladly accepted. The mistress of the household was
+absent, but Mr. Bush, aided by friends, did the honors to perfection. It
+was a lovely home and full of good cheer. Two hours later we were sent
+to the station in carriages, and escorted to a junction, nine miles
+away, by a relative of the family. We learned afterward that this
+courtesy was often extended to tourists since the burning of the hotel.
+I am happy to state that both at Mukden and Niuchwang modern hotels will
+be opened at an early date, both being named the Astor House, a favorite
+appellation all through the East.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DALNY: The ride to Dalny (the Japanese wish it called Darien) ended at
+nine in the evening; the scenery _en route_ was not unlike that of the
+day previous, except that we observed a higher degree of cultivation,
+and the plains were more extended, terminating in the distance in low
+ranges of hills. We found Dalny modern in appearance, save in a few
+large buildings which showed their early origin; the Russians had
+planned the place as a model city before the war, which in time might
+become a flourishing adjunct to Port Arthur. The city was evacuated
+before the siege of Port Arthur, the Russians concentrating all their
+strength at the latter point. Dalny is a port of some importance, but we
+were told there was little local business to speak of. Tourists are
+beginning to go there, as it is a convenient point to remain if one
+wishes to visit Port Arthur, which is a long day's excursion, leaving
+early in the morning and returning on an evening train. This has,
+heretofore, been the customary plan of procedure, owing to superior
+hotel facilities at Dalny; but a new hotel was nearly completed at Port
+Arthur when we were there.
+
+[Illustration: _Dalny_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PORT ARTHUR, _June 4th_: We left early for a hard day's excursion to
+Port Arthur. The standpoint of the tourist is that of interest and
+curiosity to see the port which was so recently the scene of such
+tragic events. With military knowledge, the interest would be more in
+observing the strategic position and the methods of defence. Before
+speaking of the incidents of the day, a brief outline of Port Arthur
+will be given as a key to the situation. A view of the place from the
+sea is disappointing, as the hills that circle around the bay are bare
+and destitute of vegetation and foliage. The foothills of a long
+mountain range divide the peninsula of Liao-tung (the circle of the
+hills extending over ten miles); several bays also indent the shore.
+Viewed from the land side, the town and port lie in an amphitheatre,
+hidden from the sea by Golden Hill on one side and by the Tiger's Tail
+Peninsula on the other. This strong position was fortified by the
+Russians in the newest way.
+
+The defence works are divided into coast and inland groups. The coast
+section is the Golden Hill position, which stands at the left side of
+the entrance to the harbor and commands the outer bay. From this hill,
+toward the sea and to the north, making a semicircle, the line of
+fortifications extends three miles, including many permanent works; the
+first of these is called the Silver Hill group, and there are several
+lines lying east and north of this. That group of forts on the left side
+is named the Tiger's Tail Peninsula, and is as strong as Golden Hill on
+the opposite side. The sea just outside of Tiger's Tail was the place
+where the Japanese fleet attacked the Russian squadron at anchor.
+Because of the vast strength of each of these two opposite points, and
+their close communication and support, they have been considered the
+strongest fortresses ever yet invested.
+
+The city of Port Arthur is divided by Monument Hill into two parts, Old
+or East Town, and New or West Town. The old town is the real Port
+Arthur; the new one was formerly a Chinese hamlet, called
+Tai-yo-ko,--the Russians building this section after its occupation. The
+old is a business town; the new an official town. Here we have the
+contrast of a European centre on one side with a Chinese on the other.
+In the old town are situated the Port Admiralty, Navy Yard, Army
+Hospital, Red Cross Hospital, Museum, and Fortress Office, formerly
+General Stoessel's house. In the new town are the Governor General's
+office and some civil administration buildings, a park, and numberless
+residences.
+
+On our arrival at Port Arthur, we took carriages, and, after securing a
+permit, went to the Siege Museum, which is filled with the trophies of
+war, and models of some of the forts that were taken; we examined these
+carefully in order the better to understand the methods employed by the
+Japanese in storming fortifications; tunnelling was the way in which
+the North Fort was taken. The Siege Museum was interesting from another
+point, as it had been the mess-house of the Russian officers of the
+garrison, and the walls were covered with views of the Crimean and other
+wars; there was also a large collection of pictures of Russian generals.
+
+[Illustration: _Port Arthur before the siege_]
+
+We then had a long drive to Monument Hill, which is situated between the
+old and the new town near the railway station. It is a high point,
+commanding the harbor and the forts, and one can obtain a bird's-eye
+view of Port Arthur from its top. On account of its advantageous
+position, General Nogi and Admiral Togo chose the hill for the mausoleum
+and monument which are built in memory of those who lost their lives.
+There are two peaks; the mausoleum is situated on one, the monument on
+the other. The monument, two hundred feet high, was in process of
+construction when we saw it; stones raised from the sunken ships formed
+the principal material in building it. On the opposite peak, with a
+torii in front, as an indication of the Shinto faith, is the mausoleum,
+where the remains of 22,183 officers and soldiers have been buried with
+formal ceremonies. It is impossible to convey an idea of the
+impressiveness of the scene as we stood on this hill, gazing out on a
+landscape significant of war and carnage on every side.
+
+After luncheon at the almost completed new hotel, we had the roughest
+ride I have ever taken--a long distance to the outskirts in order to
+view some of the ruined forts--first, to East Keekwan, the name of a
+group of defence works. The main fort here was so well defended that it
+was considered unassailable from any direction; it was also very
+strongly protected. The assault began on the 18th of August; there was
+very stubborn resistance, and many attacks were necessary before General
+Stoessel, on January 1st, proposed to surrender. As the Russians
+retreated, however, they blew the fort up with dynamite. A scene of
+desolation greeted us in consequence, and it was almost impossible to
+walk across the debris.
+
+We next visited another prominent work belonging to this group, called
+North Fort, the one we had studied at the Museum in the morning, with
+its intricate system of tunnels. These latter represented two shafts,
+three feet high and two feet wide, each forty feet long with four
+trenches; eight mines had been laid, and these were exploded on the 18th
+of December, blowing away the rampart in the northeast and seriously
+damaging the interior. A desperate resistance followed, but the Russians
+finally retreated, destroying a part of the fort before they left. We
+also saw other defences, but had no time to study them, as a long rough
+drive ensued, in order to reach 203-Metre Hill, the scene of the last
+engagement.
+
+[Illustration: _Tiger-Tail Promontory and Port Arthur during the
+conflict_]
+
+203-Metre Hill is the highest eminence of the whole fortified line,
+about two and one-half miles from the new town. It commands the whole
+western harbor, and most of the eastern, and from the top can be seen
+all the fortified positions, including camps and trenches. The
+occupation of this hill was the death-blow to the Russians, and it has
+been called the key to Port Arthur. It was very strongly fortified, and
+the work of occupation was a fearful task, involving a great loss of
+life. Early in September the attack began, and it was taken early in
+December; the Japanese loss in dead and wounded was 7578, and after the
+capitulation of Port Arthur, the Russian remains were collected and
+buried to the number of 5400; the real count was supposed to be more
+than 7000. The possession of this hill by the Japanese sounded the
+death-knell of the Russian fleet, which was practically wiped out of
+existence on the 9th of December. We regretted not being able to visit
+Port Arthur the following week, when a most interesting occasion was to
+occur,--the dedication of the fine monument erected by the Japanese
+Government to the memory of the Russian soldiers who are buried there. I
+saw photographs of the monument, but could not procure one, as they were
+not then for sale. The moral significance of this event was very great,
+as the Russians, officially and non-officially, accepted the gift with
+grateful appreciation.
+
+A friend sent me an account of the exercises at Port Arthur which
+occurred on June 10th. The Russian Archbishop and a number of high
+military officials came from Russia, and General Nogi and other Japanese
+officials from Japan. There were formal exercises of a varied kind. The
+chief feature was the address delivered by the Archbishop. He opened by
+saying "that only by the brave can the brave be appreciated. In this
+world of ours war seems to be unavoidable; at the same time it evokes
+and gives occasion for expressing some of the finest feelings of which
+human nature is capable. The many thousands of men who lie sleeping
+under the monument just unveiled were heroes who loyally and bravely
+laid down their lives in their country's cause. Such men are best
+appreciated by men of their own stamp; and the noble action of the
+Japanese in erecting this monument to the memory of their fallen foes
+showed that the best feelings of which human nature is capable rise
+superior even to the most tragic incidents of life. In performing this
+beautiful deed, the Japanese had not only shown themselves worthy of
+wearing the laurels which they had won, but had also gained a second
+victory even more prolonged and enduring. Amid all the horrors of war,
+humanity must not forget the opportunities it furnishes for the display
+of such traits." The Tokio and other Japanese papers devoted much space
+to accounts of the ceremonies and festivities connected with the
+unveiling of the monument. Some of them seemed to regard it as an
+emotional display, and others found it impossible to read the accounts
+without concluding that the Japanese and Russians had wellnigh, if not
+altogether, laid aside their feeling of mutual hostility.
+
+[Illustration: _203-Metre Hill, Port Arthur--The last point to be
+taken_]
+
+An English gentleman on the train to Dalny spoke of General Stoessel's
+surrender in very caustic terms, basing his position on information
+received from one of the officers on the General's staff. It occurred to
+me that the officer would not be likely to give favorable testimony, as
+there was a possibility of his also suffering penalties in Russia. It
+will always be a mooted question whether the surrender was justified by
+the condition of affairs at Port Arthur; certainly it was in the
+interest of humanity, as it was stated on Japanese authority that there
+were at least twenty-five thousand sick at Port Arthur.
+
+On the following morning, we left Dalny, or Darien, by the steamer
+_Santo Maru_, for Chemulpo, the port of Seoul, Korea.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CHEMULPO, SEOUL, _June 7th_: Chemulpo is an open port and has quite a
+foreign settlement; it now can boast of wide streets and some shops,
+but twenty years ago it was nothing more than a fishing village. The
+Trans-Siberian Railway is the only means of connection between Chemulpo
+and London, twenty-one days being required for the trip. The two hours'
+railway ride between Chemulpo and Seoul affords quite diversified
+scenery.
+
+The situation of Seoul is beautiful. It is a walled city, the entire
+circumference of which is twelve miles, and in this wall are eight
+arched gateways. While the wall itself is not high, it seems to cling
+near to the sides of the foothills and the mountains. These mountains
+are quite bare of vegetation, but the little valleys between the hills
+are green, rice being one of the products cultivated.
+
+Korea to us was mostly Seoul, as there is no provision for guests at
+present in the mountains. We met a gentleman and his two daughters who
+were going to the mountains, but they were to be entertained by a
+missionary family; in time this condition of affairs will no doubt be
+improved, as it is in Java.
+
+Korea is a land of great beauty. The inhabitants are lovers of nature,
+as is shown in the names they give to their mountains and valleys, such
+as The Mountain Fronting the Moon, The Mountain Facing the Sun, The
+Valley of Cool Shade, The Tranquil Sea, and The Hill of White Clouds.
+The descriptions of the mountains in the extreme North are more peculiar
+still: The Peak of the Thousand Buddhas, The Cloud Touchers, and the
+like.
+
+[Illustration: _The city wall and gate of Seoul_]
+
+The people of Korea, as they are viewed on the streets, seem to be
+contented, with apparently a larger leisure class than we had seen in
+any previous city. This was emphasized by the dress of the men,
+consisting of a long white costume open in front, made of a kind of
+grass lawn; a pair of loose trousers, something like the Turkish
+trousers, is worn beneath this. Officials, ministers, and noblemen dress
+elegantly, their costumes being made from the finest silk lawn, and they
+wear silken girdles.
+
+The dress of middle-class women is even more peculiar than that of the
+men. The upper garment is very short, made of white or green lawn or
+calico; a few inches below this is a petticoat, touching the ground;
+between these two garments there is nothing but the bare skin. It is not
+an agreeable spectacle. When on the street, they wear what is called the
+chang-ot; it consists of a long white or green cloak, with green cuffs
+and collar, cut like a sack. The neck of this garment is put over the
+head, and the long white sleeves fall from the ears and are seen
+flapping in the wind.
+
+The single or married man may be known by the style of his hair. The
+single man wears a cue, but when married it is done up in a twist and
+kept in place by a woven horsehair band. We saw a few who had cut their
+hair. The women dress their hair rather plainly on the sides, and do it
+low on their necks in the back.
+
+The women of the better class lead very secluded lives, almost like the
+Zenana; indeed, their customs seem similar to those in India. The
+children up to a certain age are seen in a state of entire nudity.
+
+The girls of the lower class are sold as domestic slaves, and may be
+seen running beside the chairs of their mistresses. They look, however,
+as though they were kindly treated.
+
+The Seoul scenes at night are most peculiar. The women of the upper
+class are allowed to take exercise only at this time. Men formerly were
+excluded from the streets at night, but now are seen. Some one has
+compared this nocturnal city graphically with the old idea of the
+resurrection. Many of the men are supported by the labor of the women of
+their household. The laundry work of a family in Seoul must be very
+considerable on account of the number of white garments worn.
+
+A Korean lady travelling in her sedan chair is quite an imposing
+spectacle. The chairs are somewhat heavier than those we had previously
+seen.
+
+[Illustration: _A group of Koreans_]
+
+The dress of the dancing-girl is many-colored, worn with a profusion of
+sashes and decorations. The head-dress is about three times as high as
+that worn by a Manchu woman. The costume consists of a white flowing
+under-robe, and over this a colored silk robe. There are very large
+sleeves and a sash worn high on the waist. The robe falls apart in front
+and shows loose trousers. The dancing-girl and the singing-girl
+correspond to the geisha and Maiko of Japan.
+
+Sight-seeing in Seoul is less exhausting than in other cities, as there
+are no galleries, museums, or elaborate tombs to be described. The
+interest in the city is found amongst its street scenes and in the
+peculiar life of its people.
+
+Seoul spreads out over a plain, which extends to the mountains. There is
+quite a variety of scenery included within its area. The country near by
+is extremely picturesque, quite unlike the outskirts of Peking. There
+are small villages and pleasant walks and drives at an easy distance
+from the city.
+
+The bazars are placed far out on the street, except in one point where
+there seems to be only one central bazar.
+
+The manufacture of brass is the specialty of Seoul; all the ancient
+forms are reproduced. Some of our party purchased large collections of
+artistic and serviceable articles.
+
+The most imposing building is the Temple of Heaven. It is bare, compared
+with the one at Peking, but it has some features that are similar and
+is made of marble. It is, however, a combination of the two temples seen
+in Peking, opening at the side, and having an open roof over the centre;
+adjoining it there is a three-story pagoda, much like a pavilion in many
+respects.
+
+The ancient tomb of the old Korean noblemen interested us. It is of
+marble, with a peculiar carving on top. At the base is an immense
+tortoise.
+
+The Buddhist temple was also visited. This had an imposing entrance
+approached by white marble steps. It was spacious, but architecturally
+far inferior to those we had seen elsewhere. The upturned roof was
+interesting.
+
+The marble pagoda, rising seven stories above the base, was really very
+beautiful. It had a special small enclosure about it, filled with
+flowers. This enclosure was in a large park, which contained an artistic
+pavilion, evidently for the convenience of people who wished to view the
+pagoda.
+
+There are said to be eighteen palaces in Seoul. Some of these at present
+are not in use. We passed the new marble palace where the Emperor was
+staying. Then we went on to the large old palace which has been vacant
+ever since the assassination of the Queen. There were imposing entrance
+gates here, and many preliminary buildings before we reached the most
+important ones. The Audience Hall is very spacious and very well
+proportioned. The approach to it is fine, consisting of many marble
+seats where the high officials sat when his Majesty appeared. From the
+exterior the Audience Hall seems to have two stories, as there are two
+of the peculiar Chinese roofs, but inside it forms one very high room.
+The Audience Hall as a building is a great decorative feature in the
+palace grounds. There is one other large room in it called, I believe,
+the Hall of Congratulation.
+
+[Illustration: _An old tomb of a high official_]
+
+We passed on to the palace of the assassinated Queen. This has now been
+torn down by order of the Resident General, on account of its unpleasant
+association both to the Koreans and to the Japanese. It originally
+covered a good deal of ground and must have been spacious. The grounds
+are very large and interesting, containing many lovely trees. One
+building therein was raised like an immense pavilion and surrounded by a
+miniature lake, very pleasing with its setting of green and at times
+covered with water-lilies.
+
+Quite a pretentious building, with its wide projecting Chinese eaves
+open on all sides and showing columns, was the one which contained the
+monument erected in honor of the Emperor's jubilee.
+
+A picturesque feature of the city consists of the gates of the Wall. We
+took drives through these to different points near by. Particularly
+noticeable is the Western Gate, or Gate of General Righteousness. This
+is massive, showing the thickness of the wall, and the high roof over
+the arch is very effective.
+
+All the hills around Korea are considered sacred and are dedicated to
+burial purposes. In one alone, seventy-five thousand persons are placed.
+The drive presents very diversified scenery. As we approached the tomb
+of the Queen, considerable formality was required. It was necessary to
+possess a permit, soldiers being stationed outside the grounds. The hill
+was very broad and quite steep at places, and on top the large tomb was
+composed of marble. We could have visited several others, but preferred
+to return home by the way of an old Buddhist monastery, a great part of
+the road being lined with trees on either side. We found the monastery
+rather dismantled and but few monks in attendance. They have to endure
+many privations, and their surroundings looked extremely bare.
+
+After this excursion, we ended the day by attending the Korean Theatre.
+The ride there was interesting, as we saw all the particular evening
+sights I have described. The arrangement of the room was very simple; we
+sat in elevated boxes at the sides. About the stage all the details were
+primitive. The action of the play was poor, but the enthusiasm of the
+audience was great. We remained but a short time.
+
+[Illustration: _A white marble pagoda in Seoul_]
+
+In the matter of education the women of the higher class are somewhat
+above the average, but those of the middle and lower classes are
+entirely ignorant. Education is one of the many recent reforms
+instituted; the old order of things is rapidly being changed.
+Electricity has been introduced, electric trams extend some distances
+even into the country, and there is a good postal service. A gentleman
+who had been a resident for some fifteen years is my authority for
+stating that in his opinion the mistake the Japanese were making in
+their protectorate was in pushing reforms too rapidly. The Koreans are
+slow in their response to foreign and western ideas.
+
+The deposed King seems to be of a peculiar type. He is described as
+having a weakness for intrigue, his early education having been received
+under conditions that foster such qualities. He was married at thirteen
+years of age to the late Queen; she was said to be unusually gifted, and
+an attractive woman, even though unscrupulous and at times cruel.
+
+There are many opinions regarding the immediate outcome of Japan's
+protectorate over Korea. Those who have faith in the integrity of
+Marquis Ito believe in good results; others fear that the invasion of a
+large number of Japanese having business interests will rather
+overshadow the Koreans, who are indolent and inclined to take their
+ease. On this subject there can be only conjecture; time will decide.
+An interesting book, "In Korea with Marquis Ito," which has been
+published during the year, deals with this question fully; George
+Trumbull Ladd is the author.
+
+Looking backward, we find that the kings of Korea were the vassals of
+China for a long period, but as one of the results of the
+Chinese-Japanese war, there was a complete renunciation of the authority
+of the Emperor of China. Hence it seems strange that at the close of the
+Russian-Japanese war another important change and crisis should have
+come to Korea.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FROM SEOUL, KOREA, TO YOKOHAMA: We left Seoul at eight on the morning of
+June 9th for Fusan, and the railway journey, an all-day trip, was a
+fatiguing one, owing to the dust; but we had glimpses of mountain
+scenery and plains. Fusan was simply a point of departure for Japan. We
+took our steamer, _Satsuma-maru_, at six that evening for the night
+only, as we were due at Shimonoseki early the next morning. The approach
+here was through the straits, and was unlike any previous view,--a wide
+entrance between two high promontories, with mountains on either side.
+
+[Illustration: _Street scene in Seoul_]
+
+Shimonoseki is quite an important point commercially, but our stay was,
+as I say, one of convenience only, since we took the train at 9.30 for
+Miyajima and the Sacred Island. This is considered the finest railway
+trip in Japan as regards scenery, and our exclamations of delight were
+many, for there were mountains covered with verdure and rice-fields, and
+from time to time glimpses of the famed Inland Sea. We had long
+anticipated this visit to the Sacred Island; we knew Miyajima had a
+population of three thousand, and was a fishing village, aside from the
+great interest which attaches to the temples; that the island rose
+eighteen hundred feet above the sea and was rocky, although covered with
+heavy foliage; but I was unprepared for the unique charm that awaited
+us.
+
+The approach to Miyajima, as we crossed the lake, gave us a fine first
+impression,--the great torii standing boldly forth from its watery base;
+the stone lanterns in the foreground; the temple seen dimly through the
+green; and the thickly wooded hills in the background all added greatly
+to the landscape. At our right, on an eminence, was situated the Mikado
+Hotel, which was to shelter us, and which we later found to be an ideal
+abiding-place.
+
+We proceeded at once to the great temple, which, with its corridors and
+galleries, six hundred feet long, represented something distinctively
+unique. One line of galleries extends out into the water at high tide,
+and stretches out like so many arms in various directions; a new series
+is being constructed. All of these intricate passages centre in the
+great temple, large and finely proportioned, but, like all Shinto
+buildings, comparatively simple as regards adornment. As we approached,
+we were confronted by at least twenty-five priests and ten
+dancing-girls, who were grouped together for a photograph; the priests'
+robes and the many-colored dresses of the girls produced a striking
+effect, as they sat on a platform in front of the temple. Later the
+girls went through several of the so-called "holy dances"; we were not
+permitted to enter the temple.
+
+Passing through a long corridor, we next ascended a hill and visited the
+unique Temple of a Thousand Mats. This is grim with age but of immense
+proportions, and having many rows of columns, covered from base to
+capital with small wooden mats shaped somewhat like butter ladles, each
+one of which is inscribed with the name and residence of the donor; the
+ladles are on sale at the temple. Not only the pillars, but every
+available place in the temple, is thus utilized, producing a very
+grotesque effect. The plan consists in each person writing his name,
+residence, and some sentiment on these mats; it originated after the
+Chinese-Japanese war in 1894, when pilgrims came to visit the temple and
+thus paid tribute to it.
+
+[Illustration: _Torii Miyajima_]
+
+Near the temple there is an imposing pagoda, also of ancient date, and
+on an adjacent knoll another shrine. Returning to the hotel, we noted
+many more stone lanterns, and still another temple with its attendant
+torii. We also passed through the lane-like streets of the village,
+thickly lined with bazars; the shops were filled with many tasteful
+articles, carved wood being a specialty in Miyajima. These shops
+reminded us of Switzerland, as did the heights, a portion of which is
+covered with an attractive park.
+
+After dinner, we regretfully bade adieu to the members of the
+Trans-Siberian party, leaving only Miss M---- and myself to return to
+Yokohama. To speed them across the lake, their guide had arranged for an
+illumination, produced by lighting candles in many of the tall stone
+lanterns; this we also enjoyed, our guide taking us out on the lake in a
+sampan; and as we rode toward the great torii it seemed to assume
+immense proportions, while the effect of the lanterns was magical. It
+was indeed a fairylike scene.
+
+We were called at four the following morning, breakfasted at five, and
+were on our steamer before six for the trip to Onomichi on the Inland
+Sea. The island was lovely as we left in the early light; and the whole
+landscape, from the towering mountain in the distance, the lesser ones
+sloping down to the plateau, to the sea, scintillated in brilliant
+color; even the great stone lanterns that were so unique the evening
+previous now stood out in bold relief, and the old torii was statelier
+than ever. As the little village and shore line faded away, we wished an
+artist could have caught the view. We sailed out into the finest part of
+the Inland Sea, where the shore was deeply indented with rocky
+promontories, which first ended in a high projection to our right; to
+the left was a continuous line of low islands. A wide extent of open sea
+was the next scene in the panorama, to be succeeded by a picturesque
+island, clad in verdure; then two small, boldly defined, rocky islands;
+next a low range of five islands slightly connected, seeming like a tiny
+range in mid-ocean; a higher chain of islands was crenellated and
+presented the appearance of being scooped out and showing a light yellow
+soil. The scene now narrowed, and the mountains on either side showed
+signs of cultivation, the terraces running almost to the top. The guide
+told us that barley was the principal cereal raised. A marvellous island
+to our left now presented itself; this had a high, rocky base, from
+which seemingly sprang a miniature forest, the tall towering evergreens
+lending a fringelike appearance near the skyline. And so the panorama
+continued with ever-increasing variety.
+
+[Illustration: _Stone lanterns, Miyajima_]
+
+We paused at Ujima, the port of Hiroshima, where perhaps is located the
+most wonderful garden in Japan. Ujima is a place of twelve thousand
+inhabitants, and the taking on of cargo consumed an hour. Soon after, we
+came to an island which had been transformed into a magazine; the side
+presented to us was a solid wall of rock. This was the precursor to our
+arrival at Kore, the most important naval station in Japan. The steamer
+touched anchor, which gave us an opportunity to note the many
+war-vessels in the harbor, three of which had been captured from the
+Russians.
+
+Our next point for landing passengers was Tukehare, in the narrowest
+part of the Inland Sea, with the Pass of Oudo in Sato-See. Here
+something unexpected occurred, as the steamer ran aground; and, after
+persistent efforts to effect our release, a naval craft came to our
+assistance and had to tow the steamer through.
+
+The scene now widened so that the shore seemed distant; this gave leeway
+for shipping of various kinds, large and small, and at one time I
+counted forty-five craft around us. Small sampans with three or four
+sails predominated. Our interest now centred not so much on shore as on
+boldly defined islands that occasionally came into view. In another
+place there were five promontories apparently in a direct line,--the
+first, dark green; the next, pale green; the next, brown in tint; the
+next, rocky; the fifth, foliage,--a veritable poem in color. We stopped
+for passengers three times before reaching our destination.
+
+Our lovely trip on the Inland Sea ended at the little port of Onomichi,
+where, you will remember, we passed the night at a Japanese inn. We left
+at once, and visited some of the temples for which Onomichi is famous.
+We first went to a very old Buddhist place with an equally ancient
+pagoda, Sinkokuji; this was at quite a height above the street, and was
+in decay. Interest centred chiefly in the Senkiji Temple, rudely formed
+of huge blocks of granite which seem to spring from the soil; to reach
+this, we climbed a succession of tiers of stairs, each landing affording
+an extended view of the hamlet. The shrine and the details of this
+rock-bound temple were very simple, but there was a weird impressiveness
+about it.
+
+At five we took the train for Kobe, arriving there at nine, this time
+staying at the Mikado Hotel. Having been there twice before, the visit
+was simply in order to break the trip to Yokohama; so a jinrikisha ride
+and a visit to a few shops the morning following sufficed in the
+sight-seeing line; and in the evening we took the night train for
+Yokohama, arriving there early on the morning of June 12th. Yokohama was
+to be our headquarters until the homeward sailing, June 29th.
+
+[Illustration: _Islands of the Inland Sea_]
+
+I have before spoken of the beauty of the bay and the fine location of
+the city. The heights reminded me of Hong-Kong; but on this third visit
+the scene seemed to have gained new interest, for all Nature was in her
+Summer dress, and the streets and parks teemed with life. There were
+many jinrikisha rides and much general enjoyment during the two weeks
+and a half that followed. Yokohama is a modern city and not famed for
+sight-seeing particularly, aside from the shops, which are of great
+interest and are filled with beautiful things; the curios, silks, and
+embroideries were very enticing, and, as dressmaking can be done well
+and economically by many of the Chinese tailors, some time is devoted
+even by tourists to that.
+
+Moto-machi Temple is of interest, heading the little shopping street of
+that name, which, with Benten-dori divides the interest as regards small
+but well-equipped native stores. The temple is Buddhist.
+
+Nogeshima is a hill from which an extended view of the city and harbor
+may be enjoyed. With cherry blossoms in May, great fields of
+many-colored iris marked the month of June, and an expedition to such a
+field proved attractive. The ride around Mississippi Bay is possibly the
+greatest trip for an afternoon's excursion. A picturesque feature of the
+city is the one hundred steps leading to the heights, on the top of
+which is a tea-house, largely frequented by residents. The many
+pleasant homes and churches make the heights very attractive, and one
+morning we extended our jinrikisha ride to the outskirts so as to visit
+the gardens and greenhouses of a young Japanese who supplies the hotel
+with peculiar dwarfed plants for the dining-room tables. We saw some
+maples and cedars twelve inches in height and fifteen years old.
+
+The park, attractive at any time, is especially interesting in May on
+account of the cherry blossoms. It must be remembered that Yokohama was
+only a fishing village when Commodore Perry anchored there in 1854; it
+was not the treaty port until 1858, and from that time begins its
+commercial importance. The greatest portion of the city as it now exists
+dates from after the fire of 1866, and the bluff on which most of the
+residents have their dwellings was first leased for building purposes in
+1867; since then a large native town has sprung up outside the foreign
+settlement.
+
+The principal excursion from Yokohama is to Kamakura, about one hour's
+ride by train. It was once the capital of Japan, from the end of the
+twelfth to the fifteenth century, numbering over one million
+inhabitants; but it now affords no indication of its former glory; it is
+only a little seaside village to-day, and its principal interests are
+the great Dai-butzu, or Buddha, and certain other temples; the Buddha is
+renowned among Japanese works of art. We took a jinrikisha from the
+station, and first visited the Temple of Hachiman, which occupies a high
+position on a hill and is reached through an avenue of pine trees. We
+passed through three stone toriis before reaching the temple, which
+stands at the head of a broad flight of stone steps.
+
+[Illustration: _Mississippi Bay_]
+
+The perspective when approaching the gigantic Buddha is fine, and gives
+one, at a distance even, the impression of great majesty. This work
+dates from about 1252 A.D. It was originally enclosed in a building,
+fifty yards square, whose roof was supported on sixty-three massive
+wooden pillars. The temple buildings were twice destroyed by tidal
+waves, since which they have not been re-erected, and the image has
+therefore been exposed to the elements. Within the statue is a large
+room. As we approached the great bronze Buddha, we realized an
+indefinable, spiritual significance; it stands over forty-nine feet high
+and ninety-seven feet in circumference, but appears serene, seemingly in
+the attainment of absolute peace after having reached the Nirvana.
+
+The Temple of Kwannon is not far from the Dai-butzu, on an eminence,
+commanding a beautiful view of the seashore and the plain. We had
+luncheon at a pretty seaside hotel, Kamakura now being a Summer resort.
+Afterwards we took a tram for the Sacred Island of Enoshima. Arriving
+at the village of Katse, we walked across to the island. Enoshima
+presents a high wooded aspect, and through the foliage on the heights
+one can obtain glimpses of many tea-houses. From the earliest ages the
+island was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist goddess of love. Nearly all of
+the temples are dedicated to Shinto goddesses. The most sacred spot is a
+cave on the far side of the island, one hundred and twenty-four yards in
+depth, the height at the entrance being at least thirty feet.
+
+We next took the train for Yumoto, the point of departure by jinrikisha
+for Miyanoshita.
+
+The train ride to Yumoto was most unusual, as the line lay through a
+succession of small villages, the road sometimes being so narrow that we
+could see into the homes or look into shop windows as we went through a
+business street. At Yumoto we took a jinrikisha for the ascent to
+Miyanoshita; the route was picturesque. To the left were mountains, the
+rocky sides sometimes projecting over the roadway, and giving me the
+sensation of imminent danger.
+
+[Illustration: _View of Miyanoshita_]
+
+To the right, far below, was a long extended valley through which poured
+a mountain stream, the murmur of which was a continual refrain. On the
+other side of the valley was a towering range of mountains. The whole
+scene affects one in a peculiarly subtle way; there is a sensation of
+being withdrawn from the actual experiences, of living in a new and
+far-away world. Suddenly the road diverged, and we had mountains on
+either side; another turn, and on a tree was a signboard, "Durkee's
+Scotch Whiskey." Instantly the "supreme moment" vanished, and I was
+again in my home city, and one of a band of women battling "the
+bill-board nuisance." I was rebellious at thus being despoiled of my
+poetic mood and tried to regain lost ground, but erelong another turn
+and Durkee's Scotch Whiskey again appeared! Sadly I resigned myself to
+fate and awaited our arrival at the Fujira Hotel.
+
+It was dark when we reached the little village and went still farther up
+the slope to where the lights were gleaming from the circling,
+four-divisioned hostelry.
+
+As I entered the spacious hall and caught glimpses of the adjacent
+apartments, then went upward to my own dainty room furnished in European
+style, I felt a sense of relief. Two little maids appeared to offer
+service, a pretty kimono and slippers suggested comfort, and I was
+content! Descending to the dining-room a little later, I met an English
+lady and her brother, who had been steamer and hotel companions several
+times, and this furnished more good cheer.
+
+The following morning, I joined an early party for the excursion to Lake
+Hakone. It was a glorious day and promised well for the hoped-for view
+of Mt. Fujiyama, 12,000 feet above the sea.
+
+The way is too rough and mountainous to be taken other than in a sedan
+chair. At first we had lovely mountain scenery, then the road grew
+wilder and mountain gorges appeared on either hand, then in one place
+there were far distant mountains, a nearer range almost sloping to our
+pathway. Sometimes the ascent was so steep and the path so narrow that
+it required much holding on to retain the seat in the chair.
+
+This was even more difficult when we began to make our descent to the
+village, which is, however, 2378 feet above the sea (Miyanoshita is 1377
+feet). The little Japanese tea-house where we tarried and had our
+luncheon is finely located close to the shore of Lake Hakone, a
+beautiful body of water with wooded shores. This lake is popular for
+boating and bathing.
+
+From the window we looked out on the distant sacred mountain, Fujiyama,
+which is revered by all Japan. Sometimes the clouds rested lovingly on
+its crest, and sometimes almost veiled it, but twice we saw the entire
+snow-covered space and no adjective can describe the matchless glory of
+that view. Poets have sung of it, and legend has woven fantastic tales
+around it, which the natives accept without a doubt.
+
+Mt. Fugii is the scene in Summer of constant visitations--about forty
+thousand pilgrims appearing there yearly, mostly of the working-class.
+Before the sixteenth century the mountain was in a constant state of
+eruption, the last great activity occurring at the beginning of the
+eighteenth century.
+
+The ride across the lake is pleasant,--the castle an interesting
+feature,--and by taking it, one discovers a different way to return to
+Miyanoshita, but I preferred the route of the morning, as the reverse
+views are always reinforcingly interesting.
+
+There were pleasant short walks from our hotel and many very easy
+excursions, so one naturally lingers, as long as possible. The friends I
+alluded to had been there two weeks. I left with regret.
+
+The third morning we started out in a pouring rain, and so had a closed
+jinrikisha; if we missed the beauty of the scenery in our descent to
+Yumoto, we took comfort in the fact that we escaped the "bill-board"!
+
+Arriving at Yokohama, I found a whole bevy of friends at the hotel
+awaiting the departure of the next steamer for San Francisco. We had all
+met at different places, once, twice, or thrice, and thus pleasant
+reminiscences and sociability now prevailed. Three were to leave on the
+_Korea_, scheduled to sail on June 29th, which augured well for my
+homeward passage.
+
+I had intended returning to Tokio, but, remembering each detail of my
+former visit vividly, I decided instead to try to see Tokio through
+others' eyes. The Emperor and Empress are spoken of with the utmost
+respect, the Emperor being progressive in public and political ideas.
+The Empress is said to have a fine mind and to be accomplished; in
+matters of social importance she has been instrumental in breaking down
+many barriers; and while we needs must regret the adoption of Parisian
+modes of dress by the court, we must remember it was done with the
+distinct purpose of harmonizing the customs of the Orient with those of
+the Occident. A diplomat spoke of Tokio as an agreeable place of
+residence in every way. Native and foreign hospitality in the home are
+absolutely separate; the Japanese wife does not receive general visits,
+but her husband may entertain royally at his club, and most elaborate
+entertainments are spoken of. The social circles of Tokio and Yokohama
+have common interests, as the cities are but a short distance apart and
+there is a mutual acquaintance. I met two American ladies who have
+resided over thirty-five years in Yokohama, and they are most loyal in
+their views.
+
+[Illustration: _Theatre Street in Yokohama_]
+
+In other lands I have visited, I have only dared give a tourist's
+impressions fortified by some acknowledged authority, or by those who
+have had the advantage of a long-time residence. My Japanese impressions
+can only hint at what this wonderful land offers in beauty, in poetic
+sentiment, and in development of life. To understand her people, one
+must be a student for years; even Lafcadio Hearn admitted, after sixteen
+years, that he knew very little of the land and of the people. Every
+bow, every courtesy embodies a tradition of ages, handed down from
+generation to generation. This truth should do away with the popular
+belief that Japanese courtesy is all affectation.
+
+There is another statement that ought to be carefully considered; it is
+that the Japanese, as a people, are dishonest. I have heard this opinion
+expressed usually in a comparison between the Chinese and the Japanese,
+the instance of employment of Chinese bookkeepers and accountants being
+cited as proof. I talked with several persons who had ground for their
+belief, and the consensus of opinion exonerated the Japanese from so
+serious a charge. One said the Japanese, with all their versatility,
+have little aptitude for figures and realize it; another said that a
+descendant of the old samurai would scorn to take the position of a
+bookkeeper, considering the position beneath him. Everywhere in Japan I
+left doors and drawers unlocked and never lost an article. At the hotel
+in Yokohama, when leaving for a three days' absence, I applied at the
+office for keys to the chiffonier and wardrobe. The clerk said, "Does
+your door lock?" I replied, "Yes." "You need then have no fear, as the
+servants are invariably honest." One gentleman, however, admitted that
+in the matter of the verbal contract the Chinaman would consider it to
+be as binding as a written one, while the Japanese might break it. We
+Americans usually require written contracts at home, and we occasionally
+hear of dishonesty and defalcation; but would we for a moment like to be
+considered a dishonest people because of these isolated instances?
+
+We were constantly meeting some one who was contrasting the two
+countries with a view of emphasizing China's supremacy. Many seemed
+jealous because Japan had succeeded in shaking off the shackles imposed
+by law and custom, and had made remarkable strides along the lines of
+progress. China with her wonderful past, her great resources and
+intellectual force, will do the same thing some day, when she emerges
+from a tyranny of law and tradition that covers a "modern" period of
+three thousand years. The victory of Japan over China in 1894 taught one
+lesson; but the Russian-Japanese war was even a greater lesson,--one
+that the new party in China has not failed to make use of, and only time
+can tell the outcome. The difference between the two nations is one of
+kind, not of degree; there is little racial sympathy between them, and
+fifty years from now, if one reads the signs correctly, there may be
+more sympathy between Japan and Russia than between Japan and China.
+
+[Illustration: _Mountains around Hakona_]
+
+The Japanese are sincere in their unbounded desire to improve,
+particularly to acquire a knowledge of English and other languages. In
+shops or corners you will see unkempt boys poring over an English primer
+or reader. They are all provident as a people, and since the close of
+the war the nation has bent every energy toward industrial development.
+
+Considerable has been said about the Japanese war loan; there is
+authority for stating that much of the money thus borrowed at that time
+was used for industrial expansion, as six railways alone were bought in
+1906, and we have seen the amount expended in Manchuria in keeping up a
+long line in an alien land at a great expense. Of Japan's commercial
+future much might be said. Truly, we of the United States ought to
+respect a people who have ideals somewhat like our own.
+
+So many courtesies had been extended to us at the Grand Hotel in
+Yokohama that we left with a profound feeling of appreciation. The
+steamer _Korea_, of the Pacific Line, was to be our home for sixteen
+days. A friend arrived from North China, who became my room-mate, and
+the conditions were in every way pleasant. The social life aboard was
+similar to that on an English steamer; many games were projected and
+prizes given, the most elaborate things being reserved for the Fourth of
+July, both for children and adults. Greatly to my surprise, I was
+awakened on that morning by a volley of fire-crackers from the end of
+the deck. A festive spirit prevailed all day, and in the evening an
+extensive concert was given in the salon.
+
+The first real excitement was our arrival at Honolulu on July 9th, where
+we were allowed one day. The city, with its beautiful location and
+tropical vegetation, is too well known to need description. We went
+first by automobile to Mt. Pali, quite a distance in the country; here
+we had a wonderful view looking across a long level stretch to a point
+beyond which were rice-fields in the stage of early green, and beyond
+that a sugar plantation, and beyond that still farther off a mass of
+green foliage. The landscape at once marked Honolulu as being somewhat
+akin to Java. The mountains here are volcanic in their origin.
+
+[Illustration: _Mount Pali, Honolulu_]
+
+Returning from Pali, we went to the Punch Bowl and Diamond Head, an
+extinct volcano. Next, we took a long drive along the sea front to the
+beautiful hotel called Moana, where we met friends. The ride led through
+one of the principal residence streets, and we noticed beautiful homes
+with their extensive grounds and profusion of palms, shrubs, and
+flowers. We also saw the former palace of the Queen, which is now
+reserved as the Governor's residence. We then went to Young's Hotel for
+lunch, and, after that, visited some minor points of interest and some
+shops, returning to the steamer in the late afternoon, feeling that
+Honolulu was indeed one of the beauty spots of earth. On reaching the
+ship, it seemed as if every passenger--man, woman, and child--was
+decorated with long wreaths of flowers reaching to the ground; the
+flowers are ruthlessly pulled to pieces and strung together to tempt the
+tourists. It was really a very beautiful sight, but unfortunately the
+flowers soon faded.
+
+The day following we saw the battle fleet, only about two miles distant,
+_en route_ for Yokohama; there were fifteen war-vessels, and it was
+indeed a wonderful spectacle.
+
+We arrived in the harbor of San Francisco at noon on July 14th, and,
+after the usual delay with the health officer, we were soon in the
+throes of the custom house, and it was an ordeal never before
+experienced. We had been told by the steward on the steamer that we must
+strictly follow the regulations laid down in the circular issued by the
+Government, December, 1907. I paid the penalty of my honesty, and the
+law was strictly enforced. I said to the custom house officer: "The lady
+opposite was through nearly an hour ago." He remarked: "She probably
+told a good many lies." And that was the consolation I had; having paid
+my duty in a resigned frame of mind, believing in a protective tariff, I
+departed.
+
+The view of the harbor as we entered had seemed quite as it was of old,
+and indeed its beauty impressed me more than ever before; but, as I left
+the wharf and drove along some of the streets of the earthquake-stricken
+city, there was a heartache, so much of wreck and ruin was evident. My
+companion, who was in San Francisco two years before, told me that the
+renovation seemed wonderful,--an opinion in which I concurred after
+arriving at the St. Francis Hotel, for there were fine blocks newly
+built in the vicinity.
+
+I remained a few days in San Francisco, and visited certain familiar
+points, most of my friends being out of the city in the month of July. I
+went across to the beautiful suburb of Oakland and visited some shops
+which seemed to me quite equal (except in their buildings) to those of
+old. No one can visit San Francisco at the present time without being
+impressed with the energy and enthusiasm displayed and by the amount of
+work being accomplished.
+
+I left on July 20th, over the Shasta route of the Southern Pacific. This
+way is so widely known for its beauty of scenery that it seems
+unnecessary to attempt any description. Mt. Shasta wore a smiling face
+the morning of our arrival, the recent heat wave having melted much of
+the snow that crowns its rugged summit.
+
+Portland has a splendid location, with mountains and the sea alike
+accessible, broad streets, and an unusually fine residence portion. Mt.
+Hood was, however, wreathed in smoke on account of the prevailing forest
+fires. The railway journey from Portland to Seattle is not lacking in
+interest, as there is varied scenery the entire way.
+
+A week in Seattle revived the impression of three years since, but the
+city has made wonderful progress meanwhile, not only in growth of
+population but in important public buildings and in the wealth of
+private residences, particularly on the heights for which Seattle, like
+San Francisco, is famous. Mt. Rainier was shrouded in mist and smoke,
+but Puget Sound and Lakes Washington and Union added unusual features to
+the landscape setting.
+
+A detour of a day to Tacoma showed another beautifully located city high
+above Puget Sound, which, having once been very prosperous, passed
+through a reactionary stage, but is again alert and vigorous. Tacoma has
+also fine buildings and attractive homes, and a great future lies before
+it.
+
+The railway journey from Seattle to Bellingham--about one hundred
+miles--is interesting, for until we reach Everett we have Puget Sound
+to our left and forests to our right, only broken at a few points by
+small towns. Then we lose sight of the Sound until within a few miles of
+Bellingham. The next reach of intervening waterway is termed Bellingham
+Bay, and it furnishes a setting for a city situated both on hills and
+lowland, withal very picturesque, Mt. Baker near in view and the Selkirk
+range dimly visible. Bellingham is really a combination of four towns,
+Whatcom, Fair Haven, Sea Home, and South Bellingham; it is a city of
+about thirty-seven thousand inhabitants. The unifying process is going
+on, and in a few years its separate identity will be forgotten, for with
+its large interests--lumber and the salmon fisheries (here are located
+the most important establishments in the world for the canning of
+salmon)--Bellingham has a future before it, and my sojourn there is
+fraught with many pleasant recollections of courtesies received, aside
+from the good cheer of my daughter's home.
+
+The State of Washington, with its fine climate, great forests, and
+fertile soil, supplemented by natural beauty of landscape, proved a
+revelation to me.
+
+My way eastward lay over the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Three years
+previous I had passed days in the Canadian Rockies; so Vancouver,
+Glacier, Field, Laggan, and Banff recalled familiar associations, while
+the intervening scenery had lost none of its exciting interest. Certain
+it is that you rarely find finer mountains, either at home or abroad.
+
+A few hours' stay in St. Paul and the renewal of some pleasant
+associations, and I was speeding homeward, arriving in Milwaukee early
+on the morning of September 30, 1908, almost a year from the time of my
+departure.
+
+In closing let me quote an extract, written eight years ago, on a return
+with my daughter from over a year's absence abroad (including the
+Western Orient): "Gazing on the lake front at Juneau Park and looking
+onward to the terraced slopes of Prospect Avenue, then on to the sky
+line of the water-tower, I exclaimed, 'No fairer scene has met my
+vision.' At which sentiment the bronze statue of Solomon Juneau before
+me seemed to nod approval, as a Founder should."
+
+  THE END
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Realizing from personal experience, as well as from observation,
+that the mosques are too hurriedly visited and too little understood, an
+attempt at classification has here been made, as well as to give them a
+certain setting. This may prove a reminiscence to those who are familiar
+with the mosques, and an incentive to investigation on the part of those
+who are yet to visit Cairo.
+
+[2] In 1877 Delhi acquired prominence as the place where H.M. Queen
+Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India. The magnificent Coronation
+Durbar of H.M. King Edward VII of England was also held there by Lord
+Curzon, Viceroy of India, on January 1, 1900.
+
+[3] This seeming repetition refers to a second Pearl Mosque.
+
+[4] Buitenzorg divides the honor with Batavia of being a capital, and
+its beauty of location and fine climate (seven hundred feet above the
+sea-level) make it a favorite resort, as well as the centre of the
+wealth and fashion of the island. In Buitenzorg one might linger on
+indefinitely and never count the days.
+
+[5] There has been a yearly revenue of $20,000,000 for some time.
+
+[6] Mr. Macheeda proved himself worthy of his descent from the Samurai;
+always a gentleman and a perfect guide.
+
+[7] For a full and picturesque account of this process, the reader is
+referred to Kipling's "From Sea to Sea."
+
+
+
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+Every attempt has been made to preserve the author's variant spelling
+and punctuation. Obvious spelling error's or place name references have
+been corrected as shown below:
+
+  Page Author                 Transcriber
+   32  crediulous             credulous
+   32  beleve                 believe
+   72  Dteb-Fatehpur-Sikri    Fatehpur-Sikri
+   72  Shiah Mahal            Shish Mahal
+   83  superstitition         superstition
+  101  Kyank taw Gyi          Kyauk Taw Gyi
+  116  Conemara               Connemara
+  126  pinkahs                punkahs
+  151  chicona                chichona
+  166  Water Castel           Water Castle
+  171  kimona                 kimono
+  190  cerain                 certain
+  200  Nuen Tang              Nuen-tung
+  266  China                  Japan
+  330  mavellous              marvellous
+
+
+
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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels in the Far East, by Ellen Mary Hayes Peck</title>
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+<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels in the Far East, by Ellen Mary Hayes
+Peck</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Travels in the Far East</p>
+<p>Author: Ellen Mary Hayes Peck</p>
+<p>Release Date: March 31, 2008  [eBook #24971]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3 class="pg">E-text prepared by Peter Vachuska, Chuck Greif, Greg Bergquist,<br />
+    and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="600" height="868" alt="Cover" title="" /></div>
+<hr />
+<h3>TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST</h3>
+<hr />
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image1.jpg" width="500" height="352" alt="The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Pyramids_from_the_Nile_Cairo" id="The_Pyramids_from_the_Nile_Cairo"></a>The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo</span></div>
+<hr />
+
+
+<div class="bbox">
+<h1>TRAVELS<br />
+
+<small>IN</small><br />
+
+THE FAR EAST</h1>
+
+<p class="center"><br /><br />BY<br />
+
+ELLEN M. H. PECK<br />
+
+<small>(<i>Mrs. James Sidney Peck</i>)</small><br /><br /></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<img src="images/deco.jpg" width="200" height="116" alt="Deco" title="" /></div>
+<p class="center"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />NEW YORK<br />
+THOMAS Y. CROWELL &amp; CO.<br />
+PUBLISHERS</p>
+</div>
+<hr />
+<p class="noinc"><span class="smcap"><small>Copyright 1909</small></span><br /></p>
+
+<p class="noinc"><span class="smcap"><small>By Ellen M. H. Peck</small></span><br /><br /><br /><br /></p>
+
+<p class="noinc"><small>THE UNIVERSITY PRESS, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.</small></p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p class="ptitle"><big>OZYMANDIAS</big></p>
+
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span class="dcap">I</span> MET a traveller from an antique land<br />
+Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone<br />
+Stand in the desert. Near them, on the sand,<br />
+Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown,<br />
+And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command,<br />
+Tell that its sculptor well those passions read<br />
+Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,<br />
+The hand that mocked them and the heart that fed:<br />
+And on the pedestal these words appear:<br />
+"My name is Ozymandias, king of kings;<br />
+Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"<br />
+Nothing beside remains. Round the decay<br />
+Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare<br />
+The lone and level sands stretch far away.<br />
+</p>
+<p class="pauth"><span class="smcap">&mdash;Percy Bysshe Shelley</span></p>
+
+<hr />
+<p class="center"><br /><span class="smcap">To My Daughter</span><br /><br /></p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2>FOREWORD</h2>
+
+
+<p class="noin"><span class="dcap">A</span>S the inspiration which caused the making of this "Tour" came from my
+daughter (the "you" of my story), and as she wished a record of the same
+published, my desire has been to give her as complete an idea of my
+journeyings as is possible by descriptive text and illustrations. The
+interest of friends in the plan has caused them to be included in my
+thought, and if the public desire to be added to the personal
+acquaintances whom I regard as my readers it will prove a pleasant
+recognition of a modest plan.</p>
+
+<p>The nine months tour included Egypt, Northern India, Burma, Southern
+India, Ceylon, Malay Peninsula, Java, Siam, Southern China, Japan,
+Northern China, Manchuria, and Korea.</p>
+
+<p>Realizing that impressions suddenly formed are not always to be trusted,
+an attempt has been made to have them tested by comparison with those
+formed by a longer residence.</p>
+
+<p>In like manner only statements have been made on the authority of those
+who claimed to have knowledge and experience. The lack of guidance of
+either a Baedeker or a Murray has been felt in Java, Siam, China,
+Manchuria, and Korea, small local guide books and guides not being an
+equivalent as regards accurate testimony.</p>
+
+<p>May these pages prove a pleasant reminiscence to those who have visited
+the scenes described, and an introduction to those who have not thus
+travelled, but some of whom may plan to "do likewise."</p>
+
+<p class="right">E.M.H.P.</p>
+
+<p class="noin"><span class="smcap">Milwaukee</span>, December, 1908</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+
+<div class='smcap'>
+<table width="400" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td></td><td align='right'>page</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#MILWAUKEE">Milwaukee</a></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Chicago">Chicago</a></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#New_York">New York</a></td><td align='right'>1</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Azores">The Azores</a></td><td align='right'>4</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Gibraltar">Gibraltar</a></td><td align='right'>4</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Marseilles">Marseilles</a></td><td align='right'>5</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Port_Saiumld">Port Sa&iuml;d</a></td><td align='right'>7</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Cairo">Cairo</a></td><td align='right'>9</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Suez_Canal">Suez Canal</a></td><td align='right'>34</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Aden">Aden, Arabia</a></td><td align='right'>36</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Bombay">Bombay</a></td><td align='right'>37</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Jeypore">Jeypore</a></td><td align='right'>48</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Delhi">Delhi</a></td><td align='right'>56</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Agra">Agra</a></td><td align='right'>67</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Fatehpur-Sikri">Fatehpur-Sikri</a></td><td align='right'>76</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Cawnpore">Cawnpore</a></td><td align='right'>79</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Lucknow">Lucknow</a></td><td align='right'>80</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Benares">Benares</a></td><td align='right'>82</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Siliguri">Siliguri</a></td><td align='right'>88</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Darjeeling">Darjeeling</a></td><td align='right'>89</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Calcutta">Calcutta</a></td><td align='right'>93</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Burma">Burma</a></td><td align='right'>97</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Prome">Prome</a></td><td align='right'>109</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Rangoon">Rangoon</a></td><td align='right'>109</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Shwe_Dagon">Shwe Dagon</a></td><td align='right'>111</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Madras">Madras</a></td><td align='right'>116</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Tanjore">Tanjore</a></td><td align='right'>118</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Trichinopoly">Trichinopoly</a></td><td align='right'>120</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Madura">Madura</a></td><td align='right'>122</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Tuticorin">Tuticorin</a></td><td align='right'>124</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Colombo">Colombo</a></td><td align='right'>124</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Nuwara_Eliya">Nuwara Eliya</a></td><td align='right'>127</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Kandy">Kandy</a></td><td align='right'>129</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Anuradhapura">Anuradhapura</a></td><td align='right'>132</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Ceylon">Ceylon</a></td><td align='right'>141</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Batavia">Batavia, Java</a></td><td align='right'>145</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Buitenzorg">Buitenzorg</a></td><td align='right'>147</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Garoet">Garoet</a></td><td align='right'>150</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Djokjakarta">Djokjakarta</a></td><td align='right'>154</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Maos">Maos</a></td><td align='right'>166</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Bangkok">Bangkok</a></td><td align='right'>174</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Singapore">Singapore</a></td><td align='right'>201</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Johore">Johore</a></td><td align='right'>201</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Hong-Kong">Hong-Kong</a></td><td align='right'>204</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Canton">Canton</a></td><td align='right'>209</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Macao">Macao</a></td><td align='right'>216</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Shanghai">Shanghai</a></td><td align='right'>225</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Nagasaki">Nagasaki</a></td><td align='right'>229</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Kobe">Kobe</a></td><td align='right'>231</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Onomichi">Onomichi</a></td><td align='right'>232</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Osaka">Osaka</a></td><td align='right'>233</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Kyoto">Kyoto</a></td><td align='right'>234</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Nara">Nara</a></td><td align='right'>246</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Yamada">Yamada</a></td><td align='right'>248</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Nagoya">Nagoya</a></td><td align='right'>250</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Yokohama">Yokohama</a></td><td align='right'>251</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Nikko">Nikko</a></td><td align='right'>252</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Tokio">Tokio</a></td><td align='right'>260</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#North_China">A Visit to North China</a></td><td align='right'>264</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Peking">Peking</a></td><td align='right'>273</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Tientsin">Tientsin</a></td><td align='right'>301</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Shanhaikwan">Shanhaikwan</a></td><td align='right'>302</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Mukden">Mukden</a></td><td align='right'>305</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Niuchwang">Niuchwang</a></td><td align='right'>309</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Dalny">Dalny</a></td><td align='right'>310</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Port_Arthur">Port Arthur</a></td><td align='right'>310</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Chemulpo_Seoul">Chemulpo, Seoul</a></td><td align='right'>317</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Toward_Yokohama">Toward Yokohama</a></td><td align='right'>326</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Homeward_bound">Homeward Bound</a></td><td align='right'>345</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td></td><td align='right'><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Pyramids_from_the_Nile_Cairo">The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo</a></td><td align='right'><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Meshrebeeyeah_windows">Meshrebeeyeah windows</a></td><td align='right'>6</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_bridge_spanning_the_Nile_at_Cairo">A bridge spanning the Nile at Cairo</a></td><td align='right'>11</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_peculiar_head-dress_of_the_Cairo_women">The peculiar head-dress of the Cairo women</a></td><td align='right'>13</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Mosque_of_Amr">The Mosque of Amr</a></td><td align='right'>17</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_interior_of_the_Tomb_Mosque_of_Kalaucircn">The interior of the Tomb Mosque of Kala&ucirc;n</a></td><td align='right'>20</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Fountain_in_the_Mosque_of_Sultan_Hasan">Fountain in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan</a></td><td align='right'>24</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Openwork_dagobas">Openwork dagobas</a></td><td align='right'>26</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Citadel_and_Mosque_of_Mahomet_Ali">Citadel and Mosque of Mahomet Ali</a></td><td align='right'>28</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_obelisk_marking_the_site_of_Heliopolis">The obelisk marking the site of Heliopolis</a></td><td align='right'>33</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Suez_Canal_near_Port_Saiumld">The Suez Canal near Port Sa&iuml;d</a></td><td align='right'>36</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Aden_Arabia">Aden, Arabia</a></td><td align='right'>39</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Victoria_Station_at_Bombay">Victoria Station at Bombay</a></td><td align='right'>41</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Queen39s_Road_at_Bombay">Queen's Road at Bombay</a></td><td align='right'>43</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Country_scene_in_Bombay">Country scene in Bombay</a></td><td align='right'>44</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_Tower_of_Silence">A Tower of Silence</a></td><td align='right'>46</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Entrance_to_one_of_the_Caves_of_Elephanta">Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta</a></td><td align='right'>48</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Street_scene_in_Jeypore">Street scene in Jeypore</a></td><td align='right'>51</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_Hindu_woman_of_Jeypore">A Hindu woman of Jeypore</a></td><td align='right'>53</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Interior_view_of_Amber_Palace">Interior view of Amber Palace</a></td><td align='right'>55</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#General_view_of_Amber_Palace_and_fort_near_Jeypore">General view of Amber Palace and fort near Jeypore</a></td><td align='right'>57</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_gateway_built_during_the_seventeenth_century_in_Delhi">A gateway built during the seventeenth century in Delhi</a></td><td align='right'>59</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Pearl_Mosque_at_Delhi">The Pearl Mosque at Delhi</a></td><td align='right'>59</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Hall_of_Private_Audience_in_the_Palace_Delhi">The Hall of Private Audience in the Palace, Delhi</a></td><td align='right'>61</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Jumma_Musjid_Delhi">Jumma Musjid, Delhi</a></td><td align='right'>61</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_tomb_of_Emperor_Humayun">The tomb of Emperor Humayun</a></td><td align='right'>64</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Northern_colonnade_of_the_Islam_mosque_showing_ruined_arch">Northern colonnade of the Islam mosque, showing ruined arch</a></td><td align='right'>66</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Kutub_Minar_the_Tower_of_Victory_in_Old_Delhi">Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi</a></td><td align='right'>68</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Gateway_leading_to_Taj_Mahal">Gateway leading to Taj Mahal</a></td><td align='right'>70</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Taj_Mahal">Taj Mahal</a></td><td align='right'>70</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Screen_in_Taj_Mahal">Screen in Taj Mahal</a></td><td align='right'>70</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Shah_Jahan_and_his_wife_in_whose_memory_the_Taj_was_built">Shah Jahan and his wife in whose memory the Taj was built</a></td><td align='right'>70</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Agra_Palace_and_part_of_wall_and_gateway_to_the_fort">Agra Palace and part of wall and gateway to the fort</a></td><td align='right'>73</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#An_Octagon_Tower_of_the_Agra_Palace">An Octagon Tower of the Agra Palace</a></td><td align='right'>73</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Pearl_Mosque">The Pearl Mosque</a></td><td align='right'>74</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Akbar39s_tomb_in_Sikandra">Akbar's tomb in Sikandra</a></td><td align='right'>74</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#General_view_of_Fatehpur-Sikri">General view of Fatehpur-Sikri</a></td><td align='right'>77</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_column_in_the_Audience_Hall">A column in the Audience Hall (Diwan-i-Khas)</a></td><td align='right'>78</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Jasmine_Tower_and_distant_view_of_the_Taj">Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj</a></td><td align='right'>81</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_ghat_at_Cawnpore">The ghat at Cawnpore</a></td><td align='right'>81</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Residency_at_Lucknow">The Residency at Lucknow</a></td><td align='right'>82</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Bathing_ghat_Benares">Bathing ghat, Benares</a></td><td align='right'>84</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Burning_ghat_Benares_where_cremations_occur">Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur</a></td><td align='right'>84</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Tope_of_Sarnath">The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares</a></td><td align='right'>86</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_view_of_Darjeeling_and_the_Kanchanjanga_Range">A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range</a></td><td align='right'>89</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_Nepaulese_group">A Nepaulese group</a></td><td align='right'>91</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Government_House_in_Calcutta">The Government House in Calcutta</a></td><td align='right'>94</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#An_avenue_of_palms_in_the_Botanical_Gardens">An avenue of palms in the Botanical Garden</a>s</td><td align='right'>96</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Fort_Dufferin_and_the_moat_Mandalay">Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay</a></td><td align='right'>98</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Mandalay_palace_and_its_tower">Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the Universe</a></td><td align='right'>98</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Arakan_Pagoda">The Arakan Pagoda</a></td><td align='right'>100</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#One_of_the_four_gateways_to_the_450_Pagodas">One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas</a></td><td align='right'>100</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Queen39s_Golden_Monastery">The Queen's Golden Monastery</a></td><td align='right'>103</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Karen_women_in_Mandalay">Karen women in Mandalay</a></td><td align='right'>103</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Burmese_country_house_near_Mandalay">Burmese country house near Mandalay</a></td><td align='right'>104</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_national_dance_at_Mandalay">A national dance at Mandalay</a></td><td align='right'>107</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#On_the_Irrawaddy_River_near_Sagoing">On the Irrawaddy River, near Sagoing</a></td><td align='right'>109</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#General_view_of_Rangoon">General view of Rangoon</a></td><td align='right'>111</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Shwe_Dagon_Pagoda_at_Rangoon">Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon</a></td><td align='right'>112</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Entrance_gateway_Shwe_Dagon_Pagoda">Entrance gateway, Shwe Dagon Pagoda</a></td><td align='right'>112</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Chapels_on_platform_around_Shwe_Dagon_Rangoon">Chapels on platform around Shwe Dagon, Rangoon</a></td><td align='right'>112</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Elephants_carrying_logs_at_Rangoon">Elephants carrying logs at Rangoon</a></td><td align='right'>115</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Gilded_Sule_as_seen_from_Hytche_Square">The Gilded Sule as seen from Hytche Square</a></td><td align='right'>115</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#General_view_of_Madras">General view of Madras</a></td><td align='right'>117</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Great_Subrahmanya_Temple_at_Tanjore">The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore</a></td><td align='right'>119</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Fort_Rock_Trichinopoly">Fort Rock, Trichinopoly</a></td><td align='right'>121</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Golden_Lily_Tank_Madura">The Golden Lily Tank, Madura</a></td><td align='right'>123</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Entrance_to_the_Madura_Temple">Entrance to the Madura Temple</a></td><td align='right'>123</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Street_scene_in_Colombo">Street Scene in Colombo</a></td><td align='right'>124</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#General_view_of_Nuwara_Eliya">General view of Nuwara Eliya</a></td><td align='right'>129</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#General_view_of_Kandy">General view of Kandy</a></td><td align='right'>131</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Entrance_to_the_Botanical_Gardens_Kandy">Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy</a></td><td align='right'>132</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Temple_of_the_Sacred_Tooth_in_Kandy">Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy</a></td><td align='right'>132</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Ruins_of_Anuradhapura">Ruins of Anuradhapura</a></td><td align='right'>135</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Near_the_Sacred_Road_Thuparama_Dagoba">Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba</a></td><td align='right'>136</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Moonstone_Steps">The Moonstone Steps</a></td><td align='right'>139</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Mihitale_Steps">Mihitale Steps</a></td><td align='right'>141</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Street_scene_in_Kandy_Ceylon">Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon</a></td><td align='right'>143</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_canal_in_the_old_city_of_Batavia">The canal in the old city of Batavia</a></td><td align='right'>144</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Batavia_Java">Batavia, Java</a></td><td align='right'>147</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#View_of_Mt_Salak_from_the_Hotel_Belle_Vue">View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue</a></td><td align='right'>149</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_village_scene_in_Garoet_Java">A village scene in Garoet, Java</a></td><td align='right'>151</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_crater_of_Papandajang">The crater of Papandajang</a></td><td align='right'>153</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_ruined_temple_of_Prambanam">The ruined temple of Prambanam</a></td><td align='right'>155</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Bas-reliefs_in_the_Siva_Temple_Prambanam">Bas-reliefs in the Siva Temple, Prambanam</a></td><td align='right'>155</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_stairs_leading_to_a_Prambanam_temple">The stairs leading to a Prambanam temple</a></td><td align='right'>155</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Three_Graces_in_the_Lara_Jongram_Temple_Java">The Three Graces in the Lara Jongram Temple, Java</a></td><td align='right'>157</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_old_temple_at_Mendoet">The old temple at Mendoet</a></td><td align='right'>159</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Boro_Boedor_in_Java">Boro Boedor, in Java</a></td><td align='right'>162</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Stairway_of_Boro_Boedor_Java">Stairway of Boro Boedor, Java</a></td><td align='right'>162</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Boro_Boedor_Java_showing_one_part_of_the_gallery">Boro Boedor, Java, showing one part of the gallery</a></td><td align='right'>162</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_public_square_in_Djokjakarta_Java">A public square in Djokjakarta, Java</a></td><td align='right'>165</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Designing_sarongs_in_Batavia">Designing sarongs in Batavia</a></td><td align='right'>167</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Landscape_near_Batavia">Landscape near Batavia</a></td><td align='right'>169</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Javanese_vegetable_sellers">Javanese vegetable sellers</a></td><td align='right'>170</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_Javanese_dignitary_and_his_attendants">A Javanese dignitary and his attendants</a></td><td align='right'>172</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_King_of_Siam">The King of Siam</a></td><td align='right'>175</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#In_the_Royal_Palace_of_Wang_Chang_Bangkok">In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok</a></td><td align='right'>180</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Entrance_to_Prakeo_the_Royal_Temple">Entrance to Prakeo, the Royal Temple</a></td><td align='right'>182</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Klong_Canal_at_Bangkok">The Klong Canal at Bangkok</a></td><td align='right'>185</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_famous_Elephants39_Kraal">The famous Elephants' Kraal</a></td><td align='right'>189</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Tower_of_Royal_Palace_at_Ban-Pa-In">Tower of Royal Palace at Ban-Pa-In</a></td><td align='right'>190</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_Siamese_girl">A Siamese girl</a></td><td align='right'>193</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_royal_barge_at_Bangkok">A royal barge at Bangkok</a></td><td align='right'>194</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_collier_quay_at_Singapore">The collier quay at Singapor</a>e</td><td align='right'>201</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Sultan39s_Palace_at_Johore">The Sultan's Palace at Johore</a></td><td align='right'>202</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_general_view_of_Hong-Kong">A general view of Hong-Kong</a></td><td align='right'>205</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_public_gardens_in_Hong-Kong">The public gardens in Hong-Kong</a></td><td align='right'>205</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_typical_street_in_a_Chinese_city">A typical street in a Chinese city</a></td><td align='right'>207</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_five-story_pagoda">A five-story pagoda</a></td><td align='right'>211</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Temple_of_the_Five_Genii_at_Canton">Temple of the Five Genii at Canton</a></td><td align='right'>212</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_San_Paulo_Faccedilade">The San Paulo Fa&ccedil;ade</a></td><td align='right'>215</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_bund_at_Macao_called_Praia_Grande">The bund at Macao, called Praia Grande</a></td><td align='right'>216</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_bund_at_Shanghai">The bund at Shanghai</a></td><td align='right'>224</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Mogi_Road_at_Nagasaki">Mogi Road at Nagasaki</a></td><td align='right'>228</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_main_street_in_Kobe">The main street in Kobe</a></td><td align='right'>231</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_fort_and_castle_at_Osaka">The fort and castle at Osaka</a></td><td align='right'>232</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_rapids_near_Kyoto">The rapids near Kyoto</a></td><td align='right'>235</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Bamboo_Avenue_in_Kyoto">Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto</a></td><td align='right'>235</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Golden_Pavilion">The Golden Pavilion</a></td><td align='right'>237</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_largest_pine_tree_in_the_world_at_Lake_Biwa">The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa</a></td><td align='right'>238</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Kasuga_Temple">Kasuga Temple</a></td><td align='right'>243</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Temple_of_Ise_Yamada">The Temple of Ise (Yamada)</a></td><td align='right'>249</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Nagoya_Castle">Nagoya Castle</a></td><td align='right'>250</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_way_to_the_Temple_Ieyasu">The way to the Temple, Ieyasu</a></td><td align='right'>254</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Kokamon_Iemitzu_Temple">Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple</a></td><td align='right'>254</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_five-story_pagoda_two">A five-story pagoda</a></td><td align='right'>257</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_gate_called_Yomei-mon">The gate called Yomei-mon</a></td><td align='right'>259</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Imperial_Palace_at_Tokio">The Imperial Palace at Tokio</a></td><td align='right'>261</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Court_of_the_Temple_Shiba_at_Tokio">Court of the Temple Shiba at Tokio</a></td><td align='right'>263</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Gate_of_Chionin_in_Kyoto">Gate of Chionin in Kyoto</a></td><td align='right'>264</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Ueno_Park_Pagoda">Ueno Park pagoda</a></td><td align='right'>264</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Little_Orphan_Rock_in_the_Yangtse_River">The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River</a></td><td align='right'>268</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Road_to_Kaling_above_Kia-Kiang">Road to Kaling above Kia-Kiang</a></td><td align='right'>270</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Hankow_bund">The Hankow bund</a></td><td align='right'>272</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Great_Wall_at_Peking">The Great Wall at Peking</a></td><td align='right'>274</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Hata-men_Gate">Hata-men Gate</a></td><td align='right'>277</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Peking_girls">Peking girls</a></td><td align='right'>278</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Llama_Temple">Llama Temple</a></td><td align='right'>278</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_Peking_cart">A Peking cart</a></td><td align='right'>281</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Confucius_Temple">The Confucius Temple</a></td><td align='right'>281</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Temple_of_Classics">Temple of Classics</a></td><td align='right'>281</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Inner_Temple_of_Heaven">The Inner Temple of Heaven</a></td><td align='right'>282</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Outer_Heaven_Temple_of_Heaven_Peking">Outer Heaven, Temple of Heaven, Peking</a></td><td align='right'>285</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_White_Pagoda_of_the_Yellow_Temple">The White Pagoda of the Yellow Temple</a></td><td align='right'>286</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Winter_Palace_of_the_Forbidden_City">The Winter Palace of the Forbidden City</a></td><td align='right'>289</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#View_from_the_Forbidden_City">View from the Forbidden City</a></td><td align='right'>289</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Marble_Terrace_of_the_Summer_Palace">Marble Terrace of the Summer Palace</a></td><td align='right'>291</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Marble_Bridge_of_the_Summer_Palace">Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace</a></td><td align='right'>291</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Nankow_Pass">Nankow Pass</a></td><td align='right'>292</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_tower_of_the_Great_Wall">A tower of the Great Wall</a></td><td align='right'>295</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Five_Arch_First_pailow_of_the_Ming_Tomb">Five Arch: First pailow of the Ming Tomb</a></td><td align='right'>295</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Emperor_Yunglo39s_tomb">Emperor Yunglo's tomb</a></td><td align='right'>297</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Emperor_Kwangsu_of_China">Emperor Kwangsu of China</a></td><td align='right'>298</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Dowager_Empress_of_China">The Dowager Empress of China</a></td><td align='right'>300</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Gordon_Hall_at_Tientsin">Gordon Hall at Tientsin</a></td><td align='right'>303</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Old_gateway_of_Tientsin">Old gateway of Tientsin</a></td><td align='right'>303</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_Temple_at_Mukden">The Temple at Mukden</a></td><td align='right'>306</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Dalny_pic">Dalny</a></td><td align='right'>310</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Port_Arthur_before_the_siege">Port Arthur before the siege</a></td><td align='right'>313</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Tiger-Tail_Promontory">Tiger-Tail Promontory and Port Arthur during the conflict</a></td><td align='right'>315</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Metre_Hill_Port_Arthur">203-Metre Hill, Port Arthur&mdash;The last point to be taken</a></td><td align='right'>317</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#The_city_wall_and_gate_of_Seoul">The city wall and gate of Seoul</a></td><td align='right'>319</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_group_of_Koreans">A group of Koreans</a></td><td align='right'>320</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#An_old_tomb_of_a_high_official">An old tomb of a high official</a></td><td align='right'>323</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#A_white_marble_pagoda_in_Seoul">A white marble pagoda in Seoul</a></td><td align='right'>324</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Street_scene_in_Seoul">Street scene in Seoul</a></td><td align='right'>326</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Torii_Miyajima">Torii Miyajima</a></td><td align='right'>328</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Stone_lanterns_Miyajima">Stone lanterns, Miyajima</a></td><td align='right'>330</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Islands_of_the_Inland_Sea">Islands of the Inland Sea</a></td><td align='right'>332</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Mississippi_Bay">Mississippi Bay</a></td><td align='right'>335</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#View_of_Miyanoshita">View of Miyanoshita</a></td><td align='right'>336</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Theatre_Street_in_Yokohama">Theatre Street in Yokohama</a></td><td align='right'>340</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Mountains_around_Hakona">Mountains around Hakona</a></td><td align='right'>343</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Mount_Pali_Honolulu">Mount Pali, Honolulu</a></td><td align='right'>344</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p><h2>TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST</h2>
+
+
+<p class="noin"><span class="dcap"><a name="MILWAUKEE" id="MILWAUKEE"></a>M</span>ILWAUKEE, <i>October 27th</i>, 1907: The adieux have been said, the friends
+have departed, and the train is moving slowly out of the station; a
+profusion of flowers, tempting new books, and other gifts are visible
+proofs of the thoughtfulness of friends on the eve of a long journey in
+untried fields, and it seems as if I had lost my moorings and was
+drifting out on an unknown way.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Chicago" id="Chicago"></a>Chicago</span> is reached, and after a hurried transfer of trains I am speeding
+on to my objective point, <a name="New_York" id="New_York"></a>New York. An interval of two days and there is
+a hurried departure for the pier and "the die is cast."</p>
+
+<p>There is always a sense of exhilaration on the sailing of a steamer from
+New York, despite the sadness of the leave-taking; and the receipt of
+many gifts, telegrams, and letters keeps up the excitement until after
+the departure of the pilot. But as the shore line recedes and we drift
+out to sea, there comes a realization of an entire change of environment
+and of the rending of former interests, which is, of itself,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span> a fine
+preparation for the mental equipment necessary to assimilate the new
+scenes to be visited.</p>
+
+<p>The November Second party of Collver Tours "Round the World," sailing on
+the <i>Friedrich der Grosse</i>, North German Lloyd line, was to embrace ten
+individuals, aside from an accomplished Director, each to be independent
+of the other, but all supposed to fit into a harmonious whole. After the
+formal presentations were over, there came a sense of relief, for
+refined manners, culture, and the experience of much travel were
+apparent, and promised well for the months of companionship which were
+to ensue.</p>
+
+<p>The localities represented by the several members in the party were as
+follows: Boston, three; Philadelphia, four; New York, one; Lafayette,
+Indiana, one; Ottawa, Illinois, one; and Milwaukee, Wisconsin, one. This
+is an indication of varied personality and diversified taste.</p>
+
+<p>The elements did not prove propitious in the days that followed our
+departure, and we were forced to bear the stress of wind and storm with
+becoming resignation, feeling personally thankful for indemnity from
+fatal results. Such a voyage does not lend itself to much diversion or
+variety of interests, but there were the usual attempts at gayety in the
+line of dancing, music,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span> and the exhilarating "Captain's dinner"; hence
+with congenial people the days were pleasantly whiled away. Among the
+fellow passengers were some former friends, but I will mention only
+those who in a sense belong to the public.</p>
+
+<p>There was Mr. Edward P. Allis with his family; he was formerly of
+Milwaukee, but for many years has been a resident of Mentone, France,
+where he has continued his researches along biological lines, and where
+he has also superintended the publication of a valuable magazine
+relating to his special subject. I am happy to state that he has
+received, in consequence, distinguished recognition from the French
+Government, even the decoration of the Legion of Honor. He is also the
+recipient of orders from other foreign governments, and the Wisconsin
+University has conferred a high degree upon him.</p>
+
+<p>Another friend was Dr. Baldwin, of Rome, Italy, who has an international
+reputation as a specialist on diseases of the heart.</p>
+
+<p>A new acquaintance was Mr. Theodore M. Davis, of Newport, Rhode Island,
+who from November to April, on his finely appointed dahabiyeh, makes the
+Nile his home, at Luxor. For some years he has superintended valuable
+excavations in the Tombs of the Kings at Thebes, defraying the expense
+of the work himself. He holds the only concession granted by the
+Egyptian<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span> Government, on condition that the result of his discoveries
+become the property of the State; these so-termed "finds" are very
+valuable, and a special room has been devoted to them in the Museum of
+Gizeh at Cairo.</p>
+
+<p>Our arrival at the <a name="Azores" id="Azores"></a>Azores was the first excitement of the voyage, and I
+had expected to renew the pleasant associations of the day we passed
+together on San Miguel, at the picturesque city of Ponta Delgada. But,
+alas! we sailed on and there was only a memory; by the subtle power of
+association another memory haunted me also, that of Funchal, Madeira,
+with its balmy air and luxuriant vegetation.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Gibraltar" id="Gibraltar"></a>Gibraltar</span>: The world-renowned fortress of Gibraltar was reached after
+some hours' delay, and we were welcomed by sunshine and a June-like
+temperature.</p>
+
+<p>The attractions there are not numerous, but they are unique;
+unfortunately, a visit to the fortified galleries is now denied to
+visitors, but a beautiful drive to Europa Point and to the neutral
+ground, together with a walk through the park called the Alameda, is a
+fair compensation. The shops which line the narrow streets possess an
+Oriental aspect, and the general view of the massive fortifications
+afforded much interest to those who had not made a previous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span> visit. But
+the picturesqueness of former visits&mdash;the motley crowd of Moors, Arabs,
+Spaniards, and Turks at the wharf&mdash;was lacking; while the venders of
+fruit, flowers, and laces were far less numerous, but quite as
+persistent, as of old.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><i>November 12th</i>: The steamer <i>Magnolia</i>, of the P. &amp; O. line, became our
+home to Port Sa&iuml;d, named for the Viceroy of Egypt, who granted the
+concession for the building of the Suez Canal. We were at once charmed
+with the general arrangement of the vessel, the salons for ordinary use
+being large and airy; the staterooms were smaller than those of the
+Atlantic service, but were finely ventilated.</p>
+
+<p>The passage to Marseilles, France, consumed about thirty-six hours, and
+the time was spent partly in planning a sight-seeing expedition to take
+place immediately after our arrival. The Gulf of Lyons, however, gave us
+a stormy reception; and, as the gale (mistral) increased, the harbor was
+reached. To be near a destination and yet unable to enter the port was
+most tantalizing!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Marseilles" id="Marseilles"></a>Marseilles</span>: The approach to Marseilles is rather disappointing, as there
+are intervening islands of bare rocks; but later the heights appear, the
+Church of Notre Dame de la Garde being a prominent feature of the view.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span>Owing to the delay in landing, only two hours' stay on shore was
+granted, which was a great disappointment to many of us, but less so to
+me, as I had previously visited the city, and remembered the enjoyment
+derived from my stay there.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to the steamer, a novel sight presented itself. The vessel
+was anchored close to the dock on which is a low embarkation shed,
+fronting on a wide passage-way, which was now filled with a motley
+group. At the back there was a fringe of color from many baskets of
+fruit, flowers, and plants in charge of dealers, clad in costumes of
+varied hues, with red shawls tied over their heads. Each hawker was
+intent on extracting coins from the interested spectators, who hung over
+the side of the steamer. In the foreground were acrobats of every
+description, dressed in all the colors of the rainbow; among them was a
+group of five musicians of tender years, an acrobat in pink tights who
+was exploiting the skill of his little daughter, scarcely five years of
+age, and another similarly cruel father, who was compelling a little
+girl to go through all manner of contortions. There was also a group of
+little girl dancers. This picturesque but painful sight impressed us
+with the necessity for the establishment here of a society for the
+prevention of cruelty to children.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 345px;">
+<img src="images/image2.jpg" width="345" height="500" alt="Meshrebeeyeah windows" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Meshrebeeyeah_windows" id="Meshrebeeyeah_windows"></a>Meshrebeeyeah windows</span></div>
+
+<p>Two hundred and fifty more passengers were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span> added to the steamer list at
+Marseilles, and henceforth the vessel was to be taxed to her utmost
+capacity. Most of the passengers were <i>en route</i> for a five weeks'
+voyage to Australia, many of them were friends, and a general spirit of
+jollity prevailed, the decks presenting the appearance of a seaside
+veranda, with their tables, lounging-chairs, work-baskets, and toys. A
+"sports" committee was at once formed, and games of all kinds were
+played (always for prizes), while a concert, dances, and bridge
+enlivened the evening hours.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of November 17th we passed the volcano of Stromboli (now
+inactive), our steamer gliding between it on one side and the isles of
+Pina on the other; some hours later the Straits of Messina were reached;
+while, farther on, the island of Candida was passed. A church service
+was held aboard both morning and evening (the latter in the second-class
+salon), this being the invariable rule on English steamers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Port_Saiumld" id="Port_Saiumld"></a>Port Sa&iuml;d</span>, <i>November 20th</i>: As we approached Port Sa&iuml;d, everything was
+at first shadowy&mdash;the lighthouse, a group of palms, and a minaret
+seeming to rise out of the sea. There were a few points of land called
+Damietta, but all else was flat. At last we steamed into the harbor,
+anchoring at the mouth of the Suez Canal, and were taken ashore in a
+launch amidst<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span> a confused yelling of voices,&mdash;indeed a perfect Babel.</p>
+
+<p>With only three or four hours in Port Sa&iuml;d, there was little time for a
+close survey, but we walked through some of the streets, called at a few
+shops of no special interest, and had afternoon tea at one of the
+hotels, to the accompaniment of music furnished by native musicians. We
+had always heard Port Sa&iuml;d spoken of as "the wickedest place in the
+world," and we commented on the apparent absence of such a condition;
+but we were assured by one of the tourists that wickedness did exist,
+and we accepted the statement without an attempt to verify it.</p>
+
+<p>Port Sa&iuml;d gains its principal importance from being the starting-point
+of that great waterway, the Suez Canal, of which we form our first
+impression from the fact that ten years' time was required for its
+construction and $100,000,000 were expended on the work, the payment of
+which impoverished Egypt and was one of the causes that led to the
+protectorate of England. This is said to be a humiliating condition to
+all true Egyptians.</p>
+
+<p>The monument at Port Sa&iuml;d, raised in honor of Ferdinand de Lesseps, as
+the founder of the enterprise, emphasizes France's contribution to the
+project.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="Cairo" id="Cairo"></a>Cairo</span>, <i>November 20th</i>: A late train to Cairo caused us to arrive near
+midnight, an inopportune time for first impressions, but the memory of a
+former visit caused a pleasant anticipation of scenes to be revisited. A
+week, however, was too short a time in which to cover the ground, but by
+persistent effort on our part much was accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>Having headquarters at Shepheard's Hotel&mdash;with its foreign arrangement
+of rooms and furnishings, together with its gayly attired attendants,
+many of them costumed in red, yellow, green, or blue silk trimmed with
+gilt, and wearing silk turbans to match&mdash;gave us at once an Oriental
+environment. The central location of the building, with the opportunity,
+also, which the wide terrace afforded guests for making observations,
+offered us an immediate insight into the unique life of the city. The
+venders of fruit, flowers, postal cards, and souvenirs formed a
+foreground of many colors, while beyond was an unceasing flow of motley
+carriages, native vehicles, carts, donkeys, and camels, and sometimes
+two resplendent outriders (called "Sikhs"), on fine chargers, heralded
+the approach of some dignitary,&mdash;a custom which is, however, dying out.</p>
+
+<p>The most novel sight which came to our notice was a wedding procession,
+the bride being ever carefully concealed by silken curtains thrown<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span> over
+either a carriage or a peculiarly constructed litter borne by two
+camels, one at the front and one at the back; a band of music preceded,
+followed by vehicles of many different kinds containing members of the
+bridal party, all <i>en route</i> for the bride's home.</p>
+
+<p>It must be remembered that Cairo, while in one sense a modern city,
+presents many clearly defined medi&aelig;val phases; this is particularly true
+throughout its native quarters, as exemplified in streets and bazars in
+the vicinity of the Nile, and in its old-time mosques; in this
+connection I would emphasize the bazars, both Turkish and Arabic. Some
+of the old irregular thoroughfares on which the bazars are situated
+radiate from the wider and more important Muski; then, again, there are
+narrower alley-like streets, a veritable tangle! The bazars everywhere
+are similarly constructed, but vary in size and importance; they are
+box-like in form, from four to six feet in width, and six to eight feet
+in height, and are raised one or two feet from the ground, with three
+sides enclosed and the fourth open to the street by day, but at night
+closed, the fourth wall sliding into place like a folding door.</p>
+
+<p>Here is usually to be found, for a certain distance, but one kind of
+goods, be it slippers, brass-work, or embroideries, alternating with
+eatables, fruit, pipes, and the like, there being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span> no attempt at
+classification. Woe be to the unwary who approach these bazars without
+the ability to "bargain"; for there is ever a scale of prices, and the
+topmost one is usually exorbitant!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image3.jpg" width="500" height="340" alt="A bridge spanning the Nile at Cairo" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_bridge_spanning_the_Nile_at_Cairo" id="A_bridge_spanning_the_Nile_at_Cairo"></a>A bridge spanning the Nile at Cairo</span></div>
+
+<p>Within the open space of his shop sits the dealer, ready for the
+contest, sometimes complacently sipping his coffee, or smoking a
+cigarette, the long Turkish pipes having been largely abolished. The
+courtesy of coffee or a cigarette is often extended to the purchaser,
+which possesses a mollifying effect if the discussion over a purchase
+has waxed high.</p>
+
+<p>It is said that the scenes in the Turkish bazars on a f&ecirc;te day are like
+a picture from the "Arabian Nights," the places being illuminated by
+many candles or chandeliers, and covered by awnings formed of rich
+shawls, scarfs, and embroideries brought from the interior. This gives
+each bazar the appearance of a reception room, with the dealer seated
+within, dispensing hospitality, every one being dressed in holiday
+attire. The bazars in Cairo are considered an important feature of the
+life of the city (as they are in every place throughout the Eastern or
+Western Orient), but they are less attractive than those I visited in
+Tunis, Constantinople, or Damascus.</p>
+
+<p>The crowd that is passing the shops often proves more interesting than
+the display within, as there are natives of all ages and descriptions,
+Arabs, Bedouins, Turks, and Egyptians, some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span> mounted on donkeys and some
+driving heavily laden camels. Water-carriers with jars, mostly women,
+are among them, while the natives usually carry under the arm the
+characteristic pigskin, filled with water. These are the sights to be
+seen, together with the venders of fruit and vegetables, alternating
+with richly equipped carriages, and funeral or bridal processions. Men
+and women in their Oriental dress jostle the crowd of sight-seers who
+ever throng these ways.</p>
+
+<p>In these, but more often in a better class of streets, we pass the
+lovely meshreb&icirc;ya windows, with their intricate turned lattice-work
+designs; they are very frequently oblong projecting windows, but instead
+of glass there is used the fine tracery or lattice-work in wood. Sad to
+relate, this fine work is sharing in the general decay to be found in
+the old quarters of Cairo, and, in a few years, the tourist will only be
+able to view the specimens even now being sent to the Arabian Museum,
+which institution is, by the way, doing a splendid work in preserving
+and classifying all artistic remains, notably those from the crumbling
+mosques.</p>
+
+<p>Except in the matter of decay, I found little change in the native
+portion of the city since my visit in 1898; but the aspect of the city
+proper has grown modern. Fine new streets, public buildings and
+residences, are seen everywhere in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span> the Ezbekieh and Ismailian quarters
+of the city, while certain sections suggest a European capital. The
+Ezbekieh Gardens, opposite the Continental Hotel, form really a small
+park in the centre of the city, and are a great resort for tourists as
+well as residents.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image4.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="The peculiar head-dress of the Cairo women" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_peculiar_head-dress_of_the_Cairo_women" id="The_peculiar_head-dress_of_the_Cairo_women"></a>The peculiar head-dress of the Cairo women</span></div>
+
+<p>The Ismailian is the fashionable quarter of the city, and it is said
+that many wealthy citizens have left their former luxurious native homes
+for a modern residence in the new section. Hence many dealers in the
+bazars have secured the deserted Oriental homes, and now live in
+comparative luxury, showing that conditions and residential centres
+change in the Old World as well as in the New.</p>
+
+<p>But note how much more attractive the original home must appear to
+native eyes. A passage leads from the street to a spacious court, and
+grouped around the court, which usually has a fountain in the centre
+(with sometimes one or two trees), are the rooms for general use and
+those assigned to guests. The apartments occupied by the women of the
+family, commonly called the harem, are not visible, but are generally
+spacious and well furnished, even luxuriously appointed, with inlaid
+floors, decorated walls, and rich rugs. The light filters through either
+meshreb&icirc;ya or flat latticed windows, for no profane eye can gaze on the
+supposed loveliness of damsel and dame, nor can they, in their turn,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span>
+gaze outward for any distance, which shows the restricted social
+condition of the women.</p>
+
+<p>It is said that they are virtually regarded with contempt, and, though
+usually kindly treated in the harem, they are considered only as
+ornamental appendages of the home; hence they are rarely educated, and
+never in more than those accomplishments, such as music and dancing,
+which tend to add to their attractiveness.</p>
+
+<p>The better classes of women are always seen veiled, and, with the
+peculiar covering over the nose, one can only judge of their appearance
+by their often very beautiful eyes. Oh, the infinite sadness to be found
+in the depths of many of them!</p>
+
+<p>I was, however, told by a gentleman, long resident in Cairo, that there
+are indications of a gradual change as regards education, the wives of a
+few high officials having been educated on broader lines than mere
+accomplishments; hence it is to be hoped that the leaven will work in
+time. It may also be found later that the transference of the harem from
+an Oriental home to a Number 9 residence on a fashionable street will
+lessen the seclusion heretofore imposed.</p>
+
+<p>The Nile is always a centre of interest, not only for those who explore
+it to the cataracts or Khartoum, but for natives and tourists who throng
+its banks to catch a glimpse of the queer sailing craft, and to watch
+the never-ending procession<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span> that passes over it,&mdash;men, women, vehicles,
+and animals filling every available space.</p>
+
+<p>It is quite the fashion for parties of tourists to repair to the bridge
+at 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> in order to watch the marketmen, venders of all kinds, and the
+heavily laden donkeys and camels fulfilling their part in the labor of
+supplying the city markets.</p>
+
+<p>Once across the bridge, the procession from the country is even more
+picturesque; and, viewed from a waiting "tram" in the late afternoon,
+when all are homeward bound, the scene is most incongruous. Sometimes
+four or five heavily veiled women in black robes are seen on one of the
+long two-wheeled carts, drawn by an emaciated horse with a native at his
+head as a propelling power; next, follow a flock of geese, two or three
+score of goats, a group of sheep, four or five camels looking down with
+a superior air on the donkeys, as well as pedestrians of many
+complexions and of varied dress&mdash;Arabs, Bedouins, Soudanese, and
+Egyptians,&mdash;their queerly shaped turbans and brilliant colors lending
+the finishing touch to the scene. Nowhere else in the Orient does such a
+view present itself, and its setting is the Nile!</p>
+
+<p>The last glimpse of the Nile, the evening before my departure, will
+never be forgotten. The occasion was an invitation to indulge in
+afternoon tea at the H&ocirc;tel Semiramis, near the entrance to the bridge.
+We lingered on for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span> sunset, which first appeared as a flaming ball
+of fire, succeeded by myriad shades of rainbow hues, these fading into
+softer tints and later into those more delicate tones that prelude the
+twilight. Then silence seemed to brood over the wonderful river, and we
+departed.</p>
+
+<p>If the street scenes, the bazars, and the Nile are an index to the
+native life of Cairo, a greater claim may be made for the mosques, in
+which the city abounds; for they represent political changes, social
+evolution, and artistic development, as history proves. To substantiate
+this claim of the mosques, a brief digression is necessary.</p>
+
+<p>The origin of Cairo dates back to the Muslim invasion in 640; the
+original Arab settlement was called Fust&acirc;t, the "Town of the Tent,"
+which is substantially the old Cairo of to-day. Here was erected almost
+at once the first mosque, that of Amr, sometimes called Amru. In 751 a
+northeast suburb was added, called El Askar; this was to be the
+residence of the Governor, and here also was erected the Mosque of El
+Askar. Keeping still to the northeast, another city was added, in 860,
+by the first independent Muslim King of Egypt, Ibn T&ucirc;l&ucirc;n, called El
+Kat&acirc;i; the "wards" became divided into separate quarters for various
+nations and classes, and here was erected the remarkable Mosque of Ibn
+T&ucirc;l&ucirc;n. A fourth city still farther northeast was added<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span> a little over a
+century later, called El K&acirc;hira (the Cairo of to-day); this did not
+become the commercial capital of Egypt, but occupied the same relation
+to Fust&acirc;t that El Askar and Kat&acirc;i held. The Town of the Tent, resting on
+the bank of the Nile, still remained the metropolis, as it did after the
+fall of both El Askar and Kat&acirc;i&mdash;the disaster to these latter cities
+giving additional prestige to El K&acirc;hira.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image5.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="The Mosque of Amr" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Mosque_of_Amr" id="The_Mosque_of_Amr"></a>The Mosque of Amr</span></div>
+
+<p>The building of a mosque<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> was regarded by the rulers not only as an
+expression of religious zeal, but as a contribution to the life of the
+State. Several mosques were erected during the two centuries of Arab
+rule, but Amr was the first and most important. It is situated near the
+site of the old Roman city of Misr, where Amr first pitched his tent, on
+the invasion of Egypt. The outside of the old mosque is not imposing,
+but, with the vast court forty thousand feet in area, surrounded by
+colonnades consisting of numberless columns with every variety of
+capitals (taken from Christian churches), it excites our admiration.
+Wooden beams, stretched from column to column, formerly supported one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span>
+hundred and eighty thousand hanging lamps which illuminated the edifice
+every night, while throngs of learned men, professors, and persons of
+many conditions gathered there daily for lectures and discussion. The
+great convocation was on Friday, when a sermon and prayers were the
+order of the day, the immense court affording ample space for the
+multitude, while the large east end sanctuary gave room for persons of
+distinction to kneel. The mihrab, or niche, where worshippers turned
+toward Mecca, the pulpit, and the tribunal were also features of the
+edifice. We now see little of the original mosque, for it has been
+remodelled from time to time; but it still remains the best type of the
+congregational mosque (called Gami, meaning "assembly"), and to me it
+seemed, as I looked upon it, one of the most impressive monuments of a
+dead past that I had ever seen.</p>
+
+<p>With the political change in 868, which introduced the Turkish period,
+Ibn T&ucirc;l&ucirc;n became the ruler, and another era of mosque and palace and
+hospital building prevailed. The Mosque of Ibn T&ucirc;l&ucirc;n is the only
+monument that survives; it is also a congregational type and has the
+same general style as Amr; it is the earliest instance of the use of the
+pointed arch throughout a building, this being two centuries earlier
+than its use in England. Five rows of arches form the arcade, or
+cloisters, on the Mecca<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span> end of the building, with two rows on the other
+three sides. The ornaments on the arches and around the windows are in
+stucco, and are worked by hand in the plaster, instead of being moulded
+as is the stucco work of the Alhambra. These consist of a bud, flower,
+and rosette pattern. Another century passed on, when, in 969, the
+victorious Gauhar forced the passage of the Nile and assumed possession
+in behalf of a Fatimid caliphate (named Fatimid, for a daughter of
+Mohammed). This event presaged a religious as well as a political
+change, for the Fatimids were apostates from the true faith and
+advocated the doctrines of Shi'a, one of the tenets being that the Koran
+had been created, and another that there had been Mohammeds or inspired
+men in every century. Shi'a now became the State religion, and for two
+centuries held sway over Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>This period was famous for palace building, and the descriptions of the
+magnificence and luxurious furnishings read like a fairy tale. Mosque
+building was not neglected, and there are two notable examples of the
+congregational form, El Azhar and El H&acirc;kim. El Azhar was founded by
+Gauhar on April 3, 970, and in 988 it was especially devoted to the uses
+of learning. It soon became one of the chief universities of the time,
+and in 1101 there were nine thousand students and two hundred and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span>
+thirty-nine professors. The foreign students even now pay no fee and are
+allowed rations of food, there being an endowment for this purpose. It
+is, however, still used to a certain extent as a mosque; but it does not
+now preserve the regular plan of a mosque, having been remodelled and
+added to several times. It has six minarets and a spacious court
+covering three thousand six hundred square yards, with one hundred and
+forty columns and numerous side chambers which are devoted to lectures,
+libraries, and laboratories.</p>
+
+<p>At the time of our visit this court was filled with individual groups of
+about thirty students, each around a professor; they were sitting
+cross-legged on the floor, and were chanting their lessons with a
+swaying motion of the body. A class of small children was of special
+interest, studying passages of the Koran from cards. The Mosque of El
+H&acirc;kim was completed in 1013, and was so resplendent throughout that it
+was known as the "Brilliant." This mosque has suffered more indignities
+than even the old Amr, but the vast, empty court, with its partly ruined
+arches, still has a certain dignity. There were originally five
+minarets.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image6.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="The interior of the Tomb Mosque of Kala&ucirc;n" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_interior_of_the_Tomb_Mosque_of_Kalaucircn" id="The_interior_of_the_Tomb_Mosque_of_Kalaucircn"></a>The interior of the Tomb Mosque of Kala&ucirc;n</span></div>
+
+<p>Leaving the Mosque of El H&acirc;kim on the right, we have B&acirc;b El-Fut&ucirc;h, the
+Gate of Capture, which is connected by the city wall with the companion
+B&acirc;b En-Nasr, or Gate of Victory.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span> These two gates guard the strong
+northeast extremity of the old city fortifications, and in 1799 formed a
+strong position for the troops of Napoleon. With B&acirc;b Zuweyler, they are
+the most important of the sixty gates which once existed in the wall of
+Cairo. They have an inner and outer entrance and resemble a Roman
+gateway.</p>
+
+<p>The Fatimid rulers outvied each other in embellishing K&acirc;hira with
+artistic structures; this seems surprising because, on account of the
+charge of heresy, K&acirc;hira was cut off from the Arabian centres of art and
+learning,&mdash;from Bagdad, Damascus, and Cordova,&mdash;and of course the
+artists and students, who formerly frequented the mosques, could not do
+so when they were in the hands of heretics. This condition of affairs,
+together with other causes, produced a crisis, as will be seen.</p>
+
+<p>The advance of Amalric and the Crusaders, in 1168, not only resulted in
+the downfall of the Fatimids, but in the destruction of old Fust&acirc;t,
+Shawar, the ruler, having issued a mandate for it to be burned in order
+to prevent the city from becoming a refuge for the Crusaders. The fire
+lasted fifty-five days, and the city in all its magnificence, having
+been the metropolis for five centuries, perished, a portion of the old
+Mosque of Amr alone remaining. K&acirc;hira then took its place as the
+official centre of Egypt.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span>Saladin, the King of Jerusalem, now became ruler of Egypt, and he at
+once adopted strong measures to win the apostates back to the true
+faith. With a wisdom far in advance of his time, he planned to educate
+the followers of Shi'aism by the introduction of madrasah mosques and
+colleges. Heretofore we have had the Gami, or congregational mosque,
+with a severely plain exterior. The madrasah mosques of this period
+contained a smaller court, which was frequently capped with a cupola in
+the centre; the sides of the court, instead of being surrounded by
+arcades, were formed of four transepts, each spanned by a single lofty
+arch. The transept toward the east was deeper than the others, forming
+the niche for prayer; it was also furnished with the usual mihrab,
+pulpit, and tribunal. Fine fa&ccedil;ades, minarets, and domes took the place
+of the usual plain exterior; the dome was generally utilized as the
+covering of a tomb or was intended for future memorial use. The
+religious exercises (daily prayers, except on Friday, with sermons) were
+in the nature of a school training in the interest of the true
+Mohammedan faith.</p>
+
+<p>The exterior of the madrasah college was not unlike the mosque
+described, but the interior included facilities for theological
+lectures, together with classrooms and libraries for general study; the
+students were received on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span> very terms described in connection with
+the university Mosque of El Azhar. These, in general, were the means
+employed by Saladin to win all back to the true faith; in time he was
+successful, and K&acirc;hira no longer rested under the stigma of heresy.</p>
+
+<p>The dignity of the Fatimid age was lowered by Saladin's quartering the
+officers of his army in the magnificent palaces, while he occupied the
+house of the Viziers. Shortly every monument of the brilliant Fatimid
+period had vanished, with the exception of four mosques and the three
+gates previously alluded to. Saladin, however, inaugurated a new era of
+building, and during his nominal reign of twenty-four years three
+mosques and sixteen colleges attest his zeal to the "cause." He also
+built the citadel, and the great wall which was to enclose not only
+K&acirc;hira but the remains of the old cities. To him the present city of
+Cairo owes its form and extent.</p>
+
+<p>The tomb Mosque of Kala&ucirc;n was built in 1279 by the ruler of that name,
+and is adjacent to the fine hospital, bearing the same name also; while
+not large, it contains exquisite examples of wood carving, marble
+mosaic, and plaster ornament worked in by hand. Seventy-seven years
+later, in 1356, we find that, in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan, the
+sculpture was in stone; hence, the material being unyielding, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span>
+designs are geometrical, instead of arabesque, as in the plaster. This
+is one of the most important mosques of any age, and is the most
+characteristic of the madrasah form. Seen from without, the walls appear
+even higher than the accredited one hundred and thirteen feet; they are
+built of fine cut stone, from the pyramids, and windows relieve the
+monotony of bare surface. There is a fine portal, set in an arched niche
+sixty-six feet high, which is decorated with geometrical designs and
+which has corner columns and capitals. The interior gives one an
+impression of immense size, on account of the great span of the four
+arches; the one at the east end is ninety feet high and seventy feet
+wide, and is unequalled. The mosaics and marbles, however, are less
+artistic than in the later mosques. The tomb chamber, entered from the
+east, has a finely decorated door of brass, and is encircled by a marble
+dado, twenty-five feet high, above which is a verse from the Koran
+carved in wood. In the centre of the room is the grave of the founder.
+The original dome fell in 1660, and was replaced by an inferior one;
+there were to have been four minarets, but these collapsed also. The
+court is well proportioned and contains an artistic fountain for
+ablution.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 342px;">
+<img src="images/image7.jpg" width="342" height="500" alt="Fountain in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Fountain_in_the_Mosque_of_Sultan_Hasan" id="Fountain_in_the_Mosque_of_Sultan_Hasan"></a>Fountain in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan</span></div>
+
+<p>We saw the bronze lantern and many of the enamelled glass lamps in the
+Arabian Museum,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span> which forms a depository for ancient works of art; the
+mosque has suffered greatly from devastation and abuse, but it still
+retains a prestige among its class that not even time can efface. It is
+said that Sultan Hasan was so delighted with the edifice that he ordered
+the architect's hands cut off, for fear he might duplicate his
+success,&mdash;an act committed presumably on the principle that "the end
+justifies the means."</p>
+
+<p>The Circassian as well as the Turkish Mamelukes were great builders of
+mosques and colleges, particularly Sultan Bark&ucirc;k (1382&ndash;1399) and Sultan
+K&acirc;&iuml;t Bey (1468&ndash;1496). Their edifices are marvels of artistic skill, and,
+by the time of K&acirc;&iuml;t Bey, perfection seemed almost to have been reached.
+This is particularly true of the tomb mosques, situated in the mausolea
+on the east side of the city, and known as the Tombs of the Khalifs.
+That of Bark&ucirc;k is noticeable, on account of its two superb domes, its
+two minarets, and a carved pulpit, the latter erected by K&acirc;&iuml;t Bey. The
+Mosque of K&acirc;&iuml;t Bey is, however, the finest of the group; it has a lofty
+dome, adorned with bands of sculpture, minarets with galleries, and
+bronze doors. There are beautiful ivory carvings over the tomb, while
+the edifice is lighted by fifty colored glass windows. Near by, the
+smaller modern tomb mosque of the Khedive Tewfik (the father of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span> the
+present Khedive), which is resplendent with a wealth of interior
+decorations, suffers in comparison.</p>
+
+<p>The defeat of the Mamelukes, and the Ottoman occupation of K&acirc;hira in
+1517, caused no cessation of mosque building; but there was a departure
+from the Saracenic models, and also a still more marked return to the
+congregational form than had been witnessed in the days of the great
+builders just noted. This is evident in the last great mosque of the
+modern period, that of Mohammed Ali (the independent monarch), begun by
+that ruler, but not completed until 1857. It is situated in the citadel
+and has an immense court, surrounded by arcades; but, unlike the
+original type, it is covered with an immense dome, producing an
+impressive effect. The exterior has also four smaller domes (one on each
+side) and two very tall minarets, with shorter ones on each corner. The
+mosque is likewise called the Alabaster Mosque, as the columns are built
+of yellow alabaster and the walls encrusted with it; its location in the
+citadel gives it a commanding position, and, being modern, it has
+escaped the ravages of time.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image8.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Openwork dagobas" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Openwork_dagobas" id="Openwork_dagobas"></a>Openwork dagobas</span></div>
+
+<p>Only a few representative mosques have here been outlined
+architecturally (several others were visited), but an attempt has been
+made to give these their political and social significance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span> and
+setting. Of the artistic side of the picture, it is claimed, on high
+authority, that there have been manifested, in the construction of these
+mosques, great architectural skill, perfection of ornament in wood,
+plaster, and stone, and a careful adherence to Saracenic principles.</p>
+
+<p>The most conspicuous point in Cairo is the citadel, erected by Saladin
+in 1166, and constituting a fitting monument of his reign. From its
+position and its fortification, it would seem almost invincible; but,
+unfortunately, the fortress is itself commanded by the higher Mokattam
+hills, as was shown in 1805, when Mohammed Ali, by means of a battery
+placed on a hill, compelled Karishid Pasha to surrender the stronghold.
+The mosque of Mohammed Ali, placed in the citadel, as already described,
+can be seen from every side, and the barracks are also a prominent
+feature; but the presence of British troops seems hardly to harmonize
+with the Oriental environment.</p>
+
+<p>A fine view of the city may be seen from the ramparts, but it is
+surpassed by the view to be had from the Mokattam hills; on our way
+there, some of the party took donkeys from near the citadel, but others
+(like myself) walked, if the exercise of ploughing through the deep
+furrows of sand may so be termed. A slippery climb, and all of Cairo
+with its environs lay before us&mdash;and such a view! It was in the late
+afternoon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span> of a perfect day; the scene was, in the main, Oriental, the
+European touches being less visible from a distance. First, a confused
+stretch of domes, minarets, and roofs; then a separate mosque stood out,
+and we recognized Sultan Hasan and Ibn T&ucirc;l&ucirc;n. Farther on were seen the
+towers above the B&acirc;b Zuweyler gate; then the Tombs of the Khalifs,
+blended together, and still farther there appeared the shadowy outlines
+of the old Mosque of Amr. At our feet stood the citadel, while the
+Alabaster Mosque and the line of arches marking the old aqueduct were
+clearly visible. The setting sun illumined the silver line of the Nile,
+touched the distant pyramids resting on the desert, and revealed the
+far-away step pyramid of Sakkara. Its glory seemed all to be gathered
+here, suffusing the whole panorama, and resting upon the scene like a
+silent benediction.</p>
+
+<p>The island of Rodda divides the Nile, and was formerly connected by
+bridges of boats with both the island of Gizeh and Fust&acirc;t, now old
+Cairo. It was formerly a place of commercial importance, and had
+extensive dockyards; according to tradition it is a place of Biblical
+associations, since a palace occupied by Pharaoh's daughter is pointed
+out, and also the place on the river where Moses was found in the
+bulrushes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image9.jpg" width="500" height="339" alt="Citadel and Mosque of Mahomet Ali" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Citadel_and_Mosque_of_Mahomet_Ali" id="Citadel_and_Mosque_of_Mahomet_Ali"></a>Citadel and Mosque of Mahomet Ali</span></div>
+
+<p>The old Nilometer, for measuring the depths<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span> of the Nile, which was
+erected in 716, is of interest. It consists of a square well, sixteen
+feet in diameter, having, in the centre, an octagonal column on which
+the ancient Arabic measures are inscribed. It was last remodelled in
+1893. We visited old Cairo and the Coptic churches, six of which are
+situated in the precincts of the ancient castle of Babylon. The Copts
+are considered fine representatives of the old Egyptians, and they have
+succeeded in preserving their language and liturgy through twelve
+centuries of fierce oppression. The Fatimid period alone allowed them
+some measure of toleration; their religious forms are similar to those
+of the Greek church, but their discipline is more severe, their Lenten
+fast covering a period of fifty-five days, with abstinence from sunrise
+to sunset.</p>
+
+<p>The Church of St. George will illustrate the peculiar arrangement of
+their religious edifices. Following the example of the older Egyptian
+Byzantine churches, the nave and tribune are uncovered and the side
+aisles have galleries. The nave has three divisions: first, a vestibule;
+second, a section set apart for women; and third, another section for
+men. There are the usual choir, sanctuary, and side chapels, and the
+division between the choir and the sanctuary is ornamented with carvings
+in wood and ivory. The church also contains Byzantine carving and
+mosaics, and is characterized by the usual<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span> richness in decoration. A
+flight of twelve steps descends into the crypt, a small vaulted chapel
+with marble columns situated under the choir. At the end of the nave is
+an altar, around which has sprung up the tradition that the Virgin and
+Child there rested during a month's stay, after the flight to Egypt. The
+Church of St. Sergius is similar in construction, as are others of the
+group, besides hundreds more scattered through Egypt. The dust of ages
+clung to our skirts as we left the desolate scene, and there was within
+us the consciousness that, for old Cairo, there could be no
+resurrection.</p>
+
+<p>One of the places that might consume days in the inspection is the
+Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, which it is impossible to describe in a
+limited space. But to the student of Egyptology and to the tourist it is
+alike important, because, in its monuments of stone and bronze, it
+presents visible proofs of a wonderful past, while the sarcophagi,
+mummies, and other remains taken from the tombs, reveal the life and
+habits of the early Egyptians.</p>
+
+<p>With only two mornings for an inspection, we devoted one to a general
+view of the museum, and the other to the fine collection of our
+fellow-traveller, Mr. Theodore Davis, for which a special room is
+reserved. Mr. Davis courteously explained to us the different objects,
+or "finds"; these included artistic articles of household use,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span> a fine
+group of Canopic jars, and miscellaneous pieces of unusual merit (all
+from the tombs of the Kings at Thebes); the whole exhibit showing what
+an enthusiast, with time and means, can accomplish in the interest of a
+buried past.</p>
+
+<p>An excursion of great meaning is that to the pyramids. Crossing the
+Nile, we followed its course to the former palace of Gizeh; then the way
+led inland, along what was formerly a fine carriage drive, but now one
+usually takes the tram to save time. Our arrival was exciting, owing to
+the number of persistent Bedouins who met us with donkeys and camels. A
+white donkey, named Snowflake, and an attendant, named Yankee Doodle,
+fell to me, while a camel, named Mary Anderson, was allotted to a
+friend. An inquiry as to why American names prevailed, revealed the fact
+that the names of the animals are adjustable, according to the
+nationality of the party to be supplied.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of the pyramids is familiar the world over, but an actual
+view of these monuments of hoary age ever inspires awe and reverence. As
+we ascended the plateau (twelve hundred by sixteen hundred yards), and
+rode within the shadow of the pyramids, our feeling was deepened by the
+view of the barren waste stretched before us,&mdash;yellowish sand and piles
+of debris accentuating the solitude of the place,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span> while the inscrutable
+Sphinx and other monuments added their silent testimony.</p>
+
+<p>A more extended view revealed "the river of rivers," on each bank of
+which appeared a green line of foliage; beyond this could be dimly seen
+cultivated fields with intersecting canals, while tiny villages lent the
+human touch, and far away, Cairo, with her gleaming domes and minarets,
+became an appropriate background for the scene.</p>
+
+<p>All the members of our party having previously visited the spot, we were
+spared the excitement of climbing the walls and entering the chambers,
+greatly to the disappointment of our guides, to whom the prospect of
+extra bakshish is always alluring. Our tour of observation consumed so
+much time that the usual programme of five o'clock tea at the H&ocirc;tel Mene
+was abandoned. On our arrival in the city, the mantle of night had
+fallen,&mdash;a peaceful close to a never-to-be-forgotten day.</p>
+
+<p>Another afternoon's excursion was made by carriage to the old villages
+of Matariya and Heliopolis. Near the former place is an ancient gnarled
+sycamore, under which, so tradition says, the Holy Family rested in
+their flight to Egypt. The present tree was planted in 1672, but the
+credulous still believe it to be a direct descendant of the original
+one. A fine spring which flows in the vicinity is also supposed to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span>
+have lost its natural brackish taste on account of the infant Jesus
+having been bathed in it. A half-mile farther on is Heliopolis, the old
+City of the Sun. It is now marked by the solitary obelisk, which alone
+remains to remind us of a past that stretches untold centuries back of
+the Muslim conquest of Egypt in 640; and of a city that was the exponent
+of the most ancient civilization of the world.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 337px;">
+<img src="images/image10.jpg" width="337" height="500" alt="The obelisk marking the site of Heliopolis" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_obelisk_marking_the_site_of_Heliopolis" id="The_obelisk_marking_the_site_of_Heliopolis"></a>The obelisk marking the site of Heliopolis</span></div>
+
+<p>The obelisk is the oldest Egyptian one known; it is of red granite,
+sixty-six feet in height, although it seems lower on account of the mass
+of debris at the base, and is inscribed with hieroglyphics. There remain
+a few granite blocks of the temple, designated the House of Ra, whose
+priests were so learned as to have attracted Plato when a student, to
+have drawn Herodotus into discussion, and to have laid the foundation of
+Moses' wisdom.</p>
+
+<p>Heliopolis has been the scene of many stirring events, the victory of
+the Turks over the Mamelukes occurring there in 1517, while in 1800
+General Kl&eacute;ber successfully led the French forces against the Turks. The
+memory of the active past serves to emphasize the present solitude of
+the place.</p>
+
+<p>A favorite resort of the Cairo folk is the island of Gezireh; here a
+long avenue of lebbek trees furnishes a fashionable promenade, while
+games of golf, tennis, cricket, and polo, together with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span> the races, are
+a constant source of attraction. The once famous palace of Gezireh (the
+scene of great festivities at the opening of the <a name="Suez_Canal" id="Suez_Canal"></a>Suez Canal in 1869) is
+now turned into a popular hotel; its grounds slope down to the Nile,
+where dahabiyehs are sometimes anchored; an inspection of one of these,
+the <i>Bedouin</i>, excited our admiration.</p>
+
+<p>The time of our stay was drawing to a close, and Cairo was again to
+become "memory" with a past stretching back into centuries without
+number. Egypt has a human history that is almost appalling to the
+thoughtful mind; this limitless stretch of time may, in part, explain
+the peculiar, indefinable charm that Cairo has upon the imagination of
+the beholder, thus winning for herself the appropriate name of the
+"Mysterious City of the Nile."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Port Sa&iuml;d</span>, <i>November 26th</i>: The return to Port Sa&iuml;d in the afternoon was
+followed by our departure on another P. &amp; O. steamer, the <i>Arabia</i>, for
+Bombay, India.</p>
+
+<p>One enters the Suez Canal with peculiar sensations, as it is a waterway
+of vast importance, connecting the Mediterranean and Red Seas, and so
+narrow that the shores on both sides are distinctly visible. It extends
+from Port Sa&iuml;d to Suez, and is nearly one hundred miles in length; it is
+artificial, with the exception of a channel<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span> through Bitter Lakes and
+Lake Tinsuh. All along the way, we were virtually traversing the desert,
+Isma'iliya presenting a small oasis, fifty miles from Port Sa&iuml;d. From
+the deck we watched the monotonous scene, hour after hour, the landscape
+being old and colorless, with great billows of sand in the foreground,
+and here and there occasional hillocks. Once we saw mountains of sand,
+called the Gebel Ab&ucirc; Batah range. Sometimes a few native huts would
+appear (the mere semblance of a village), then a stray camel or two, or
+a group of natives with their pigskins, intent on securing water. The
+Great Bitter Lake is a fine body of water, and it afforded us a
+temporary relief from the monotony of the Canal. There was a short stay
+at Suez, which has all the stir of a noisy modern port. We were now for
+a time in the Gulf of Suez, but saw nothing except a yellow beach and
+low outlying mountains; we longed for even a patch of grass, but, alas!
+this was the season of drought, and vegetation was slumbering.</p>
+
+<p>But if Nature was dull and lifeless, there was no lack of jollity on
+board the steamer; for the passengers were mostly English, and there
+were constant games or other devices for "killing time," in which the
+English as a nation are so proficient.</p>
+
+<p>We sailed out of the Gulf of Suez into the Red Sea, which afforded some
+variety of scene, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span> there were occasional islands, that of Perim being
+the most important and a possession of Great Britain. It stands
+prominently out of the sea in its length of two miles, and seems almost
+destitute of vegetation, although there was a little settlement close to
+the shore.</p>
+
+<p>Thus far, contrary to all expectation, we had had comfortable weather;
+but <a name="Aden" id="Aden"></a>Aden, a few hours later, gave us a heated welcome. This small city
+of Arabia is picturesquely situated on the Arabian Sea, high up on rocky
+cliffs; we had anticipated a hurried survey of the city, but the heat
+was so excessive that only a few gentlemen ventured ashore; however, we
+had a little diversion on the steamer in the interval, as numerous
+natives appeared with amber beads, ostrich feathers (which are a noted
+commodity of the place) and fans; this provoked the usual contest in
+bargains.</p>
+
+<p>The evening brought us compensation for a day of heat, with its
+consequent languor, in the shape of a gorgeous sunset; a huge ball of
+fire hung in the west and radiated great streaks of red, yellow, and
+blue, these fading away into the softer tints, and then came the most
+wonderful afterglow, the heavens being suffused, and the whole scene
+making one breathless, as if under a spell.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image11.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The Suez Canal near Port Sa&iuml;d" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Suez_Canal_near_Port_Saiumld" id="The_Suez_Canal_near_Port_Saiumld"></a>The Suez Canal near Port Sa&iuml;d</span></div>
+
+<p>The Arabian Sea gave us an aftermath of heat, but, remembering with
+considerable satisfaction<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span> that the days of our transit were nearly
+over, we assumed an indifferent air.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Bombay" id="Bombay"></a>Bombay</span>, <i>December 6th</i>: On nearing India, with its far-away past, I was
+convinced that I would be first impressed with its Oriental aspect, but,
+on the contrary, the approach to Bombay presented a decidedly modern
+phase. There is a fine, almost semi-circular harbor, with a modern quay,
+and tall buildings encircling the shore, the tasteful Royal Bombay Yacht
+Club in the front, the spacious new Taj Mahal Hotel to the left, having
+about a block of frontage on the bay, while farther back were other tall
+buildings. Dusky faces greeted us at the landing, and a Babel of voices
+in an unknown tongue, or rather tongues, since many tribes were
+represented, each with their separate dialect.</p>
+
+<p>Arriving at the Taj Mahal, we felt a sense of strangeness, as the
+arrangement of rooms and the service were distinctly foreign. There were
+almost too many attendants or servants (two for each room, an upper and
+a lower one), and the waiters in the dining-room were more interesting
+to me than the menu,&mdash;the Portuguese wearing white uniforms with short
+jackets, pink vests, and black ties; the Mohammedans attired in long
+white tunics, with wide belts at the waist, loose trousers, and
+barefooted.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span>It was reserved for an afternoon drive through the crowded native
+quarter, however, to give us a striking impression of the India of the
+past. Every nook and corner of the narrow streets seemed a blaze of
+color&mdash;women in their full skirts of many shades of red (that color
+predominating), with diverse novel waist arrangements and a profusion of
+jewelry, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and anklets. Men were in their
+many-hued turbans of various styles, with no clothing to the waist and a
+limited supply below. Then there were boys and small children,&mdash;the
+former with only a loin cloth, the latter as Nature made them, with
+silver chains bearing quite large hearts suspended around their waists,
+and with smaller chains around their necks, each supposed to ward off
+sudden calamity or disease.</p>
+
+<p>But, if there was color in the dress, there was emaciation in the
+figure,&mdash;thin features, thin limbs, and flat chests being the prevailing
+type, a fair indication that their scanty supply of food does not
+furnish them sufficient nutrition. Northern India is the so-termed
+"famine district," and the famine of one year is said to have destroyed
+over four millions of people; pestilence is always threatening these
+natives, and besides, the demands for tribute of an enervated priesthood
+(who "toil not," alas! "neither do they spin") have to be met. So is it
+any wonder<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span> that poverty prevails and that sadness of countenance is
+everywhere seen?</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image12.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="Aden, Arabia" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Aden_Arabia" id="Aden_Arabia"></a>Aden, Arabia</span></div>
+
+<p>The bazars are similar in arrangement to those in Cairo; but more novel
+wares are displayed, and less bargaining is resorted to. The European
+shops were satisfactory, and we invested at once in white felt topee
+hats lined with green, and also in ecru parasols similarly lined, for
+dire tales had been told us of the penalty we should suffer if we were
+not thus equipped, on account of the great power of the sun in midday;
+often the heat was known to bring on insanity (on the authority of a
+long-time resident of India). The wearing of that topee hat was a great
+personal sacrifice, as it was horribly unbecoming, and after some weeks
+of trial one of our party was brave enough to advise a second venture; a
+Calcutta style was tried, with no better results, so you can imagine the
+joy of the final "giving up"!</p>
+
+<p>If the native quarters revealed to us an unknown life, so did a country
+drive, for there were trees and shrubs never before seen, and queer
+little thatched houses of the bungalow type. Groups of cocoanut and
+other palms were all lacking in freshness, as this was the dry season,
+and dust must prevail until the arrival of the "monsoon," or rainy
+season, in May. The domestic animals seemed to thrive, such as camels,
+donkeys, bullocks, and there<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span> were many birds, the little mina and the
+green paroquets being of special interest, while immense black crows
+hovered about everywhere.</p>
+
+<p>The European aspect of Bombay is imposing, and the public and municipal
+buildings are hardly to be surpassed, the railway station claiming the
+distinction, architecturally, of being the finest in the world. The
+dominant type of public building is designed in what is called Gothic
+Indian style.</p>
+
+<p>The drive along Queen's Road is a dream of beauty. The private
+residences, each with fine grounds, are many and tasteful, those along
+Queen's Road being usually occupied by the military class or by
+officials in the civil service. Malabar Hill is also a residential
+centre, and a drive there affords one an extended view of the city.
+There also one may have a glimpse of the Arabian Sea, but a much better
+view is to be had from the grounds of the Towers of Silence, that
+strange exemplification of the faith of a peculiar people.</p>
+
+<p>We had met a Parsee gentleman of culture and refinement on the steamer,
+<i>en route</i> for Bombay, which fact made us eager to learn something of
+this sect. They came to India from Persia, twelve hundred years ago,
+driven away on account of Mohammedan persecution. They are strict
+followers of the tenets of Zoroaster, their creed, briefly epitomized,
+being "Good thoughts,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span> good words, and good deeds." There are about one
+hundred thousand in Bombay; as a class they are well educated, and have
+great business capacity; hence they are prominent in commercial affairs,
+particularly in banking. They are generous and charitable, and are at
+the head of most of the philanthropic institutions of the city; many
+distinctions have been won by them from the English Government.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image13.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="Victoria Station at Bombay" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Victoria_Station_at_Bombay" id="Victoria_Station_at_Bombay"></a>Victoria Station at Bombay</span></div>
+
+<p>Their strange treatment of the dead shows what a strong hold custom and
+faith can have over a people; believing that fire is a symbol of Deity,
+and also revering the earth, neither cremation nor burial of the dead is
+permitted. The Towers of Silence, five of them occupying the most
+beautiful site on Malabar Hill, and surrounded by spacious grounds with
+trees, shrubbery, and flowers, hold the Parsee dead.</p>
+
+<p>These towers are of whitewashed stone, two hundred and seventy-five feet
+in circumference, and twenty-five feet in height; the upper floors are
+of iron grating, with three circles, whereon the corpses are placed; the
+inner circle is for children, the next for women, and the outer one for
+men. Thus placed, the vultures, which have been hovering about awaiting
+their prey, complete the work, and soon only the skeletons remain; these
+are thrown into a circular well in the centre of the enclosure, where
+they quickly turn to dust. This well has perforated holes in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span>
+bottom, so that the action of the rain can carry away the dust to still
+another receptacle, which in time reaches the sea. Previous to the
+ceremony, one hundred or more mourners, robed in white, may be seen
+walking up the hill, preceded by four men, carrying the bier on their
+shoulders. They pass into the house of prayer for a time, and then
+proceed to the Towers, where they are met by the only two men (of the
+outcast class) who are ever permitted to enter, to whom the body is
+consigned for the final rite.</p>
+
+<p>And yet, in spite of all this gruesomeness, the Parsees are a happy,
+social people, and their entertainments, particularly their weddings,
+are described as presenting a brilliant array of bejewelled women,
+tastefully dressed in the soft tinted silks they so much affect, with
+the long graceful veils falling to the feet. This is the only head
+covering worn in a carriage or on the street. The men, however, usually
+wear the conventional European dress, but on ceremonial occasions a
+white costume is required, with a small black hat.</p>
+
+<p>Another sombre feature of Indian life is the prevalence of caste, which
+no foreigner can expect to understand, so complex is the system. There
+are four general classes: the Brahman, or princely caste (this has four
+subdivisions); the military caste; the commercial caste; and the
+laboring caste, commonly called "coolies."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span> These in their turn admit
+of many subdivisions, and when we realize that caste is hereditary and
+that whatever a man's ambition he can never rise above his station, even
+though he seek to secure promotion, we may understand what a yoke it
+imposes on the people.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image14.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="Queen's Road at Bombay" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Queen39s_Road_at_Bombay" id="Queen39s_Road_at_Bombay"></a>Queen's Road at Bombay</span></div>
+
+<p>Another bar is custom, which is quite as iron-clad as is caste; whenever
+any improvement is suggested, either in dress or in living, the
+suggestion is usually met with the reply that it is prevented by custom.
+This applies particularly to the agricultural class, among whom the
+crude ploughs and other out-of-date implements cannot be replaced by
+modern ones, as it has been the custom to use the former. Even the
+carrying of heavy burdens on the head cannot be given up; woe to any one
+who suggests substituting the carrying of a basket! A laughable incident
+is told of a European gentleman who employed a number of men to carry
+sand; thinking to lighten their labor, he purchased wheelbarrows, but on
+visiting the scene of action a week later, he found the men with the
+barrows on their heads! No doubt, the reply to his protest was, "It is
+custom."</p>
+
+<p>Another deplorable condition in India is found among women, particularly
+of the lower classes, as they are considered of a more inferior order
+than the men of the family and are treated with little respect, being
+virtually slaves.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span> The higher class lead secluded lives, but do not
+escape the inflexible law that demands the marriage of a girl by the age
+of fourteen, or the ostracism thrust upon the child widow, who, on
+returning to a home of which she was once an honored member, finds
+herself virtually an outcast. Her pretty clothes are taken from her, and
+she is required to do the menial work of the family; this is the Indian
+protest against the abolishing of the suttee, or the burning of widows
+on the funeral pyre of their husbands,&mdash;cruelties prevented by English
+rule, as are also the practice of child suicide and the passing of the
+Juggernaut car over the prostrate bodies of living victims.</p>
+
+<p>These phases are not pleasant to contemplate, but are none the less
+necessary to know, if one is to form even a superficial idea of
+"conditions." It is gratifying to learn that still more reforms are
+advocated, and that there are to be more schools established, similar to
+the one originated by Ramabai, not far from Bombay, as a refuge for
+child widows. She received financial aid when in the United States a few
+years since. Mrs. Annie Besant has also established, at Benares, a
+school under Theosophical auspices, called Central Hindu College; this
+has for its object the combination of religious, moral, mental, and
+athletic instruction for Hindu youths.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image15.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="Country scene in Bombay" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Country_scene_in_Bombay" id="Country_scene_in_Bombay"></a>Country scene in Bombay</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span>The European residents of Bombay lead their own lives, and the social
+usages are quite the same as in England; the usual "sports" abound
+there, such as golf, tennis, and cricket, polo, and the races, while
+yachting has great prestige under the auspices of the aristocratic yacht
+club on Apollo Bunder.</p>
+
+<p>The Victoria and Albert Museum has a fine building, but an unimportant
+collection; it stands in Victoria Gardens (a park of thirty-four acres,
+well laid out), and near the south entrance are the remains of the stone
+elephant which gave the island of Elephanta its name; the gardens are a
+popular resort. In another portion of the city is the best statue of
+Queen Victoria to be found in India.</p>
+
+<p>An unusually fine market building is surmounted by a handsome
+clock-tower. There are large, well-equipped hospitals and a college, in
+addition to the number of buildings for public uses. One frequently sees
+gayly painted mosques and temples. Among the many ruins, those of Siva,
+called the Caves of Elephanta, are of most interest.</p>
+
+<p>A steam launch was taken at the Apollo Bunder, and, after an hour and a
+half on the bay, we arrived at the island; the landing was not
+agreeable, and we were met with a chorus of voices from boys and men,
+crying "Memsahib" this and "Memsahib" that; some were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span> beggars, others
+were intent on renting their "chairs" for the ascent of the hill.</p>
+
+<p>The caves are excavations in the solid rock from fifteen to seventeen
+feet in height; originally there had been a plan, showing the
+arrangement of columns and colonnades, but the depredations of the
+followers of Mohammed in the past are everywhere to be seen. The
+entrance to one cave, however, is well preserved, as is also a group,
+almost life size, of Siva, Vishnu, and Brahma, called the Trinity. The
+caves are said to be the home of many deadly snakes, but none appeared,
+and a death-like stillness prevailed; once in the sunshine again, we met
+a snake charmer with a lively collection of what seemed to be cobras,
+but we declined to gaze upon them.</p>
+
+<p>Further visits to the streets and bazars revealed new scenes, and such a
+variety of nationalities! As Sir Edwin Arnold has written: "Here are
+specimens of every race and nation of the East, Arabs from Muscat,
+Persians from the Gulf, Afghans from the northern frontier, black shaggy
+negroes from Zanzibar, islanders from the Maldives and Laccadives;
+Malays and Chinese throng and jostle with Parsees in their sloping hats,
+with Jews, Lascars, Rajputs, Fakirs, European Sepoys, and Sahibs."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image16.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="A Tower of Silence" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_Tower_of_Silence" id="A_Tower_of_Silence"></a>A Tower of Silence</span></div>
+
+<p>My vivid impression of Bombay is a memory of the June-like temperature
+(in December),<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span> the lovely drives, and the never-ending panorama of the
+water front as seen from my hotel windows, sometimes dazzlingly bright
+in the sunlight, and again subdued, as the soft opalescent tints of the
+twilight enveloped the landscape in a shadowy haze. Before me lay ocean
+steamers, merchantmen, a man of war, yachts, and many smaller vessels,
+with rowboats of diverse pattern; to the left was the pier, while the
+English flag floated from the attractive yacht club. It was, however, a
+typical Continental view, and not an Oriental one, so sharp an impress
+has England made on a city and island which were not acquired by
+conquest (it is pleasant to note), but as the marriage portion of
+Catharine of Braganza, of Portugal, when she became the bride of King
+Charles II of England. This transference was a fortunate thing for
+Bombay, all foreign residents and tourists agree, but native
+appreciation, if there is any, seems to slumber, as is the usual rule
+where colonization exists.</p>
+
+<p>The equipment of a party leaving for a tour through India is important,
+for a poor guide or an indifferent travelling servant (also called
+bearer) would mar the pleasure. Bedding and towels for each member of
+the party must be looked after (mostly for night travel, as the hotels
+now usually prepare the beds), the guides must also be supplied, and one
+must be careful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> to have appropriate clothing for the journey. Your
+travelling servant is, according to custom, not expected to do any
+menial service (so considered), such as strapping your trunks, or
+removing your hand luggage from your room. This work is performed by
+so-called coolies; of course, a travelling servant may be so obliging as
+to offer to carry your handbag (as was often done by ours), but you must
+be duly appreciative of this show of favor.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Jeypore" id="Jeypore"></a>Jeypore</span>, <i>December 10th</i>: On the morning of our departure from Bombay,
+we each found a fat, brown, English "hold-all," enclosing bedding, which
+was added to our luggage, the aggregate requiring much additional space
+in our compartments. Our route to Jeypore lay through Ahmedabad, once a
+place of much importance, and still of interest on account of its
+artistic mosques. But the lack of hotel accommodations for a party
+deterred us from stopping over, and also prevented our visiting the
+celebrated Jain temples at Mount Ab&ucirc;, a ride of several miles to the
+mountains in a jinrikisha. I would, however, advise all tourists to take
+this trip, even at some personal discomfort, as the temples are said to
+be marvellously beautiful.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image17.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Entrance_to_one_of_the_Caves_of_Elephanta" id="Entrance_to_one_of_the_Caves_of_Elephanta"></a>Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta</span></div>
+
+<p>The arrival at Jeypore was in the chill of late evening; as we
+approached the Hotel Kaiser-i-Hind (the best the place affords), a blaze
+of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> light showed us a large open veranda, furnished with chairs, sofas,
+and tables, and evidently the salon of the hotel. My room opened from
+the end of the balcony, and it was large and cheerless, so all hope of
+warmth vanished; a small, dark bathroom was at one side (with no light
+except when a door was opened), furnished with the regulation high round
+bathtub and a shaky washstand; neither of the outer doors would lock!
+The floors on opposite sides of both rooms contained ominous-looking
+square openings, suggesting the possibilities of certain reptiles which
+we had been told existed, but which we had not yet seen. After viewing
+all these "tranquillizing" influences, we retired, having first undone
+the distasteful "hold-all" for extra bedding.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning dawned without the door having been opened and without
+the appearance of the dreaded lizards. The veranda salon presented an
+animated appearance; several men in turbans and wearing camel's-hair
+shawls (draped around the shoulders) were sitting on the floor,
+displaying their many commodities, which included embroideries, shawls,
+garnet beads (a specialty of Jeypore), necklaces of various kinds,
+together with swords, daggers, and the like, all warranted to be
+antique. "Memsahib" was heard in every direction, for the arrival of a
+party of supposedly rich Americans<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span> had been duly heralded. Resisting
+their importunities for the time being, we entered an inner room and
+found comfort and a fairly good breakfast waiting us. Such persistency
+and eloquence, nevertheless, as were later displayed by those dealers in
+describing their wares are seldom heard! Fortunate for us that some of
+the articles were attractive enough to be purchased, stilling the clamor
+for a time! But as we had been told that this would be the usual
+programme on our arrival at any place in the Orient, the future prospect
+was not alluring.</p>
+
+<p>While over a quarter of India's population as well as a third of its
+area is under native rule, the "beaten track" is subject to English
+r&eacute;gime. Hence the visit to Jeypore, the capital of the independent
+province of Rajputana, is always regarded as a new experience. We found
+indeed a unique city, situated on a plain, hemmed in by lofty hills,
+with streets and buildings the color of old rose pink, and with broad,
+regularly laid out thoroughfares, two long straight streets intersecting
+each other at right angles near the palace, thus forming four corners.
+Here is a fountain, and the point is a centre of life and action; crowds
+of people surge back and forth, almost trodden underfoot by the
+ever-present, ponderous elephants, camels, and bullocks, drawing the
+little <i>ekkas</i>,&mdash;every one disputing the right of way. Proceed in any
+direction and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span> more unusual street scenes present themselves along a
+single block than can elsewhere be found, and this in a city less than
+two centuries old! It is due, however, to the barbaric character of an
+environment where a gorgeous Maharaja, tigers, leopards, and elephants
+all figure in the scene, where the crowds always seem happy and life is
+one large "merry go round."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image18.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="Street scene in Jeypore" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Street_scene_in_Jeypore" id="Street_scene_in_Jeypore"></a>Street scene in Jeypore</span></div>
+
+<p>The Palace of the Wind is a peculiar structure; visitors are not
+admitted, and it is usually reserved for the guests of the Maharaja on
+State occasions, the ruler being very hospitable. It is said that a
+polite intimation on the part of a tourist that he desires to visit the
+interior, coupled with some slight credential, will cause one or two
+elephants and a body-guard to be placed at his disposal for the
+expedition.</p>
+
+<p>Not much of the "Palace of Occupation" was seen; a large audience room
+was finely proportioned, but looked uninviting, as the rugs were rolled
+up and the furniture covered. The stables adjoining were, however, of
+great interest, as three hundred horses were in the collection, some of
+them of rare value. Later, we visited the elephant stalls and the
+leopard and tiger cages. In another locality the observatory, covering a
+large open space, was filled with the quaint old devices, now obsolete,
+for studying the heavens.</p>
+
+<p>The long streets are lined with bazars of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> usual plan but much
+larger; workers in brass predominated, that being a specialty of
+Jeypore. There is a flourishing Art School where old forms of vases,
+lamps, and boxes are reproduced, the original designs being loaned from
+the Victoria and Albert Memorial Museum, which occupies an artistic
+building in the centre of spacious grounds. There one may find a rare
+collection of old brass, gold and silver enamel, wood carving, weaving
+and embroidery, all classified and arranged in historical order.</p>
+
+<p>A native school, or college, greatly interested us; there were groups of
+boys in a number of rooms, all belonging to the best Rajput families.
+There are special rooms devoted to Sanskrit, English (here the boys
+recited a poem in unison), history, logic, philosophy, and the natural
+sciences.</p>
+
+<p>There were a number of unpretentious Hindu temples, and the Maharaja is
+said to be quite punctilious in his observance of religious forms. He
+was absent from the city, but several brothers of his were seen driving,
+clad in long garments of gaudy-colored striped calico, and wearing small
+turbans; the dress of the women was also peculiar, the skirt being so
+full that as they walked they resembled balloons; they are noted for
+wearing a profusion of jewelry,&mdash;necklaces by the half-dozen, bracelets
+sometimes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span> nearly to the elbow, anklets, heavy earrings, nose-rings,
+and finger-rings without number.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;">
+<img src="images/image19.jpg" width="336" height="500" alt="A Hindu woman of Jeypore" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_Hindu_woman_of_Jeypore" id="A_Hindu_woman_of_Jeypore"></a>A Hindu woman of Jeypore</span></div>
+
+<p>Animals and birds in large quantities added motion and color to the
+street scenes, together with brightly caparisoned elephants, stately
+camels, and white bullocks with their long horns and dreamy eyes,
+drawing the little two-wheeled <i>ekka</i>, which sometimes carried four
+occupants. Peacocks flashed in and out at every turn (they are
+considered a sacred bird and are therefore protected), while
+blue-breasted pigeons came in clouds whenever there was a prospect of a
+feast.</p>
+
+<p>There are processions of various kinds, the highest function of all
+being a wedding procession, where the brilliancy varies according to the
+amount of means that can be expended by the prospective bridegroom. In
+one afternoon we witnessed eight of these spectacles; the first was
+given by a man of wealth who was seated on an elephant, the palanquin of
+which was gorgeous in its decoration; he himself was richly dressed, as
+were the attendant friends. The procession was preceded by a band of
+music, and in the group were six nautch, or dancing girls; at intervals
+of about two blocks, the cavalcade stopped, matting was thrown down, and
+the dancers came and executed a slow-measured dance, which continued for
+about five minutes; then the procession moved on to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span> the next point,
+this programme continuing until the home of the bride was reached. All
+of this we witnessed. The other seven wedding processions presented
+variations; in one the principal actor was a boy of about fourteen who
+looked terrified; two of the processions consisted of poor men;
+sometimes carriages were substituted for the elephants, and the
+dancing-girls were omitted, but there were always music and a crowd.</p>
+
+<p>Elephants figured prominently in our trip to the old city of Amber, five
+miles distant, and the former capital of Rajputana. We left our carriage
+some distance away and were conveyed the remainder of the journey by two
+elephants, named Munsie and Bunsie, with gayly painted faces and trunks,
+furnished through the courtesy of the Maharaja. In this fashion we made
+our entrance.</p>
+
+<p>The old city of Amber is situated below the palace, which is on the side
+of a mountain, with a long-stretching fort back of it; the situation,
+together with the gray walls of the palace and the fort, all makes a
+striking picture, reminding one of medi&aelig;val times; the palace is well
+preserved, many of the rooms are artistic, and the fine public audience
+chamber particularly impressed us. Here large gatherings are held in
+connection with ceremonial occasions at Jeypore; the Prince of Wales
+had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span> been entertained here two years previous, at which time the city
+of Jeypore was made resplendent with a fresh coat of the rose pink
+preparation.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image20.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Interior view of Amber Palace" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Interior_view_of_Amber_Palace" id="Interior_view_of_Amber_Palace"></a>Interior view of Amber Palace</span></div>
+
+<p>Near the entrance to the Amber Palace was an exquisite little Hindu
+temple, dedicated to the terrible goddess, Kali, who delights in
+sacrifice; this was presided over by a revolting-looking priest, and
+there were evident traces of the daily morning sacrifice of a goat. Once
+a year one hundred goats are offered up, together with other animals;
+formerly human beings were sacrificed to appease the goddess, but this
+slaughter is now prohibited by law. In a well-kept garden back of the
+palace there is a fine collection of tropical fruits and of unfamiliar
+shrubs. This ruined city of Amber must have presented a wonderful
+spectacle two centuries ago, before the pageants and old-time customs
+were transferred to its modern prototype, Jeypore.</p>
+
+<p>Another afternoon's experience in Jeypore seemed even more like a scene
+from a comic opera,&mdash;only the curtain is never lowered in this most
+spectacular city in India, if not in the entire world.</p>
+
+<p>The pleasure of our stay in Jeypore was greatly enhanced by the
+intelligence of the local guide, who was of the Brahman class and
+broadly educated; he had an enlarged<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span> idea of the benefit to be derived
+from a sojourn in the New World, but he seemed uncertain with regard to
+securing a position in New York. One of the gentlemen suggested that he
+might at first seek employment as a butler, but his reply was that it
+would be impossible for him to engage in any menial work on account of
+his caste; this is a mild illustration of the domination of social
+lines.</p>
+
+<p>A little wave of excitement was created on the morning of December 12th
+by a slight earthquake; we were still further shaken up by the constant
+presence of the persistent venders whenever we were at the hotel, who
+even followed us to the station the hour of our departure for Delhi,
+when articles were purchased by us at half their original price.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Delhi" id="Delhi"></a>Delhi</span>, <i>December 13th</i>: A greater contrast can hardly be imagined than
+that between barbaric, pleasure-loving Jeypore, and Delhi, a city full
+of old-time associations, whose triumphs of architectural skill and
+sculptured devices have won for it the admiration of the world.</p>
+
+<p>The fort and palace, together with the adjacent mosque, called Jumma
+Musjid, are the chief centres of interest and the points we first
+visited. The two places suffered greatly during the mutiny of 1857, and
+the old Mogul<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span> capital has passed through so many vicissitudes that a
+little historical setting seems necessary.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image21.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="General view of Amber Palace and fort near Jeypore" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="General_view_of_Amber_Palace_and_fort_near_Jeypore" id="General_view_of_Amber_Palace_and_fort_near_Jeypore"></a>General view of Amber Palace and fort near Jeypore</span></div>
+
+<p>Of the city's early history very little is known before the Mohammedan
+conquest, in 1193 <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> There are, however, the ruins of two Hindu forts
+of the eleventh century in old Delhi (covering many miles south of
+Delhi), as well as the famous iron pillar of Kutub Minar, to be alluded
+to later. Delhi was not favored by the greatest of Mogul rulers, King
+Akbar, or by his son, King Jahangir; however, his grandson, Shah Jahan,
+built the fort in 1638, and later the palace and great mosque&mdash;hence the
+name, Shah Jahanabad, and in his connection with the Taj Mahal and
+palace at Agra, he won the title of the "Great Builder"; he also
+transferred the capital from Agra to Delhi.</p>
+
+<p>A century later, the city was sacked by Nadir Shah, of Persia, and a
+general massacre occurred. Although finally defeated, he took with him
+many treasures, among them the priceless Peacock Throne and the valuable
+Kohinur diamond; the latter is now in the possession of King Edward of
+England.</p>
+
+<p>Other changes followed, until, in 1804, British occupation was effected;
+but even then the descendants of the Mogul monarchs were allowed some
+show of royalty, until after the King's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span> treachery and deposition at the
+time of the mutiny of 1857. This must be briefly alluded to, as it is
+truly said, "Delhi is steeped in mutiny memories!"</p>
+
+<p>Various causes have been assigned for this great mutiny of the Bengal
+troops, but it was probably due in part to a season of unrest, some
+minor event precipitating the crisis. The revolt occurred on May 10th,
+at Meerut, forty miles distant; at first there were but twenty-five
+hundred men, then other regiments joined them, and, on their arrival in
+Delhi, they attacked the civil offices, and the inmates were compelled
+to flee to the fort, where they were murdered.</p>
+
+<p>The Fifty-fourth Regiment marched to the relief, but most of the
+officers were shot, and the native soldiers refused to act,&mdash;a precedent
+followed by the natives of other regiments; thus the rebels were largely
+reinforced, and they soon had complete possession of the fort, which was
+then well garrisoned by native officers who were thoroughly trained in
+English tactics. The mutiny was now complete, and English rule for the
+time being ceased; disturbances also spread to Agra, Cawnpore, and
+Lucknow, so the army was necessarily divided; however, the bravery of
+the British forces at Delhi was such that by May 20th the fort and
+palace had been regained. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span> King was captured before Humayun's tomb
+(outside the city), and, the King's sons surrendering, they were shot in
+front of the Delhi gate of the fort. The victory, nevertheless, was only
+won through the sacrifice of many lives, the loss of officers being
+particularly heavy; the city also suffered greatly from the siege, and
+the beauty of the fort and palace was much impaired.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image22.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="A gateway built during the seventeenth century in Delhi" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_gateway_built_during_the_seventeenth_century_in_Delhi" id="A_gateway_built_during_the_seventeenth_century_in_Delhi"></a>A gateway built during the seventeenth century in Delhi</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 337px;">
+<img src="images/image23.jpg" width="337" height="500" alt="The Pearl Mosque at Delhi" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Pearl_Mosque_at_Delhi" id="The_Pearl_Mosque_at_Delhi"></a>The Pearl Mosque at Delhi</span></div>
+
+<p>There are two fine gates to the fort,&mdash;the Lahore on the west side, and
+the Delhi on the south side,&mdash;both built by Shah Jahan, between 1638 and
+1648. The fort is encircled by a massive red sandstone wall; we passed
+through the grand archway of the Lahore gate, into a vaulted arcade
+which Mr. Ferguson (the famous authority on architecture) considers the
+noblest entrance known to any palace. The arcade ends in the centre of
+the outer main court, measuring five hundred and forty by three hundred
+and sixty feet; the inner court is somewhat larger and is surrounded by
+cloisters or galleries. On the farther side of this inner court is the
+fine Hall of Public Audience, Diwan-i-Am, one hundred by sixty feet,
+where the proportions and the arrangement of columns and arches are
+perfect. At one end of this hall is a raised recess in which the Emperor
+used to be seated on the famous Peacock Throne, which Nadir Shah carried
+to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span> Persia; before the throne, and lower, was the seat occupied by the
+prime minister, while above it were placed the inlaid panels by Austin
+of Bordeaux.</p>
+
+<p>The hall was restored under the direction of the late viceroy, Lord
+Curzon, and we saw Florentine artists renewing the inlaid work in the
+panels. The remarkable throne was six feet long and four feet wide; it
+stood on six massive feet, which, with the body of the chair, were of
+solid gold, inlaid with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. The throne took
+its name from having the figures of two peacocks standing behind it,
+their tails extended, and the whole so inlaid with sapphires, rubies,
+pearls, emeralds, and diamonds as to be lifelike in its color. All this
+was surmounted by a canopy of gold, and supported by twelve pillars,
+richly emblazoned with gems, while a fringe of pearls ornamented the
+edge of the canopy. There were still more costly adjuncts, but these
+details must suffice; it is needless to add that the loss of the throne
+was considered a national calamity.</p>
+
+<p>A gate on one side of this hall led to the inner court of the palace,
+and to the Hall of Private Audience, or Diwan-i-Khas, which is among the
+most graceful assembly rooms in the world. It is ninety by sixty-seven
+feet, and is built entirely of white marble, inlaid with precious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span>
+stones; at either end of the hall is the famous Persian inscription:</p>
+
+<p class="poem">"If heaven can be on the face of the earth,<br />
+It is this, oh! it is this, oh! it is this!"</p>
+
+<p>Not far removed from here are the royal apartments, consisting of three
+suites of rooms, with an octagonal tower projecting over the river
+Jumna. These rooms are all finely decorated. Beyond them are the Rang
+Mahal, or Painted Palace,&mdash;the residence of the chief Sultana,&mdash;and the
+royal baths, consisting of three large rooms fitted in white marble,
+elaborately inlaid. Opposite to this is the Moti Musjid, or Pearl
+Mosque.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image24.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The Hall of Private Audience in the Palace, Delhi" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Hall_of_Private_Audience_in_the_Palace_Delhi" id="The_Hall_of_Private_Audience_in_the_Palace_Delhi"></a>The Hall of Private Audience in the Palace, Delhi</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image25.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Jumma Musjid, Delhi" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Jumma_Musjid_Delhi" id="Jumma_Musjid_Delhi"></a>Jumma Musjid, Delhi</span></div>
+
+<p>There are more buildings that could be described, but some were injured
+at the time of the mutiny, and others have since been removed,
+presumably in the interest of modern requirements.</p>
+
+<p>We made our exit through the Delhi gate; between the inner and outer
+arches stand the Chettar elephants which were replaced by order of Lord
+Curzon. The Jumma Musjid is raised on a lofty basement; it has three
+gateways, four corner towers, two lofty minarets, and three domes. We
+ascended one of the towers and had an extended view; inside there is a
+spacious quadrangle, three hundred and twenty-five feet square, in the
+centre of which is a fountain for ablution; and on three sides<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span> there
+are sandstone cloisters. An immense concourse of people assemble here
+for prayer every Friday; the mosque in arrangement is very similar to
+the congregational mosques of Cairo.</p>
+
+<p>The Kalun Musjid, usually called Black Mosque, dates from 1386. It is of
+peculiar construction, having two stories, and is somewhat Egyptian in
+appearance. A Jain temple was so hemmed in by streets that its
+appearance was much impaired, but the interior was beautiful in design
+and finish.</p>
+
+<p>The street known as Chandni Chauk fully sustained its reputation as a
+shopping centre; it is over a mile in length and is always a scene of
+sparkle and commotion; on it were the usual bazars, but also many larger
+stores, as Delhi is considered the finest shopping point in India,
+particularly in precious stones,&mdash;jewelry being the commodity most
+heralded, as we learned to our sorrow.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving at Maiden's Hotel (under English management, but
+semi-Oriental in its arrangement), we complacently viewed our rooms on
+the second floor, opening upon a gallery and overlooking a large court.
+Here at last, so we thought, was a haven of refuge from jewelry
+intruders, but, alas! we were no sooner located than they appeared,&mdash;not
+the impecunious class, but dealers with shops and a bank
+account,&mdash;bringing with them a vast<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span> array of really beautiful gems,
+which were tempting but high-priced. To say that, on an average, three
+of these men knocked at our door during the morning bath, while as many
+were waiting for us at the luncheon hour, literally camping out on the
+balcony during the evening hours, is no exaggeration. Then the cards
+they presented, the insinuations they indulged in with regard to the
+other man's goods (who was waiting outside)! It really was amusing, but
+it grew tiresome, and was demoralizing, because one was compelled to
+"bargain" if anything was purchased at all, the first scale of prices
+being purposely exorbitant.</p>
+
+<p>A day's visit to old Delhi was most interesting; it is a ride of eleven
+miles to Kutub Minar, through sand and debris, comprising a portion of
+an area of forty-seven miles, covered with the remains of seven, once
+prosperous, cities. Several of the ruins were of interest, and they had
+a history, but I will describe only the well-preserved mausoleum of
+Emperor Humayun, which gains in importance from having been the model of
+the Taj Mahal at Agra. It stands on a lofty platform of red sandstone,
+and consists of a large central octagon, surmounted by a dome with
+octagon towers at the angles; the red sandstone exterior is artistically
+picked out in relief with white marble. The windows are recessed, and
+the lower doors are filled with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> beautiful lattices of stone and marble.
+In the centre of each side of the main octagon is a porch, forty feet
+high, with a pronounced pointed arch. The cenotaph of the Emperor is of
+white marble, without any inscription; his wife and several other
+persons, including two later Emperors, are buried here also. As was
+quite the custom of the time, the tomb is surrounded by a garden of
+thirteen acres. Farther on, was the Tomb of a Saint, a perfect gem! It
+is built of white marble, is eighteen feet square, and is surrounded by
+a broad veranda. Around the covered grave there is a low marble rail,
+and over it a beautiful canopy, inlaid with mother-of-pearl; in the
+walls are finely pierced screens. Near this tomb is a handsome red
+sandstone mosque, called Jumat Khana, and in the vicinity are a number
+of other important tombs of artistic design, two having elaborately
+carved marble doors, the design being like lacework.</p>
+
+<p>The culmination of the morning's trip was at the Kutub Minar enclosure;
+the magnificent ruined Mosque of Kuwat-ul-Islam occupies a large portion
+of the space, and dates from the latter part of the twelfth century. The
+main entrance was through an arched doorway, the courtyard was
+surrounded by cloisters formed of pillars purloined from Jain temples
+and piled one upon another. Most of them are richly ornamented, although
+many have been defaced.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image26.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The tomb of Emperor Humayun" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_tomb_of_Emperor_Humayun" id="The_tomb_of_Emperor_Humayun"></a>The tomb of Emperor Humayun</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span></p><p>The famous Hindu Iron Pillar stands in front of the ruin; it is one of
+the most unique antiquities in India, and is a solid shaft of wrought
+iron, twenty-three feet, eight inches high and sixteen inches in
+diameter; it has a deeply cut Sanskrit inscription, and is so individual
+in its character as to prove a distinct reminder of a decayed past.</p>
+
+<p>The most prominent feature of the landscape is Kutub Minar, rightly
+named the Tower of Victory. Some have thought it of Hindu origin, but
+the now accepted opinion is that it was built by the Moguls, after the
+conquest. It is two hundred and thirty-eight feet high, and has five
+stories with balconies, each story being decorated with bands of
+inscriptions. The first three stories are of red sandstone and are
+fluted; the two upper stories are of white marble and have been
+restored. The diameter of the first story is forty-seven feet, three
+inches; that of the upper story, nine feet; three hundred and
+seventy-nine steps lead to the summit, and ninety-five steps lead to the
+first gallery, from both points of which we obtained a fine view of
+ruins in every direction.</p>
+
+<p>Tughlakabad lies five miles east of Kutub Minar; the fort is so high and
+massive as to be seen long before the point is reached. The enclosure
+covers nearly four miles and contains a ruined mosque and palace.
+Outside the wall is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span> the tomb of Tujlak Shah; it is situated in an
+artificial lake, and is connected with the fort by a causeway, six
+hundred feet long and supported on twenty-seven arches.</p>
+
+<p>Of this tomb Mr. Ferguson says: "The sloping walls and almost Egyptian
+solidity of this mausoleum, combined with the bold and massive towers of
+the fortifications that surround it, form a picture of a warrior's tomb
+unrivalled anywhere."</p>
+
+<p>The day's experience included luncheon at a "rest house" near Kutub
+Minar; this term applies to a simple semi-hotel, provided by the
+Government for the convenience of members of the military and civil
+service and their families; it is situated in places where there are no
+hotel facilities, and, when unoccupied, the public may share in the
+convenience.</p>
+
+<p>The long, intensely dusty ride to Delhi,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> past ruin after ruin, gave
+us leisure to reflect on the ravages of time and the mutability of all
+earthly things.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image27.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Northern colonnade of the Islam mosque, showing ruined arch" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Northern_colonnade_of_the_Islam_mosque_showing_ruined_arch" id="Northern_colonnade_of_the_Islam_mosque_showing_ruined_arch"></a>Northern colonnade of the Islam mosque, showing ruined arch</span></div>
+
+<p>Another afternoon drive about Delhi revealed new points of interest,
+including some which are associated with the mutiny, such as the Ridge
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span>where the British troops were stationed and from which a fine view is
+afforded; Flagstaff Tower, where the women and children were assembled
+on May 11, 1857; and the very inadequate Mutiny Memorial Monument,
+erected to commemorate the heroic deeds of the officers and soldiers who
+fell during the summer of 1857.</p>
+
+<p>But the scene that will linger longest in my memory is the panorama of
+the massive walls, towers, gateways, and the half-ruined palace. Then,
+one can hardly forget the Pearl Mosque, which is of such rare beauty as
+to prove a fitting memorial to the "Great Builder," Shah Jahan; the
+latter has a prototype in modern times,&mdash;none other than Ludwig II of
+Bavaria, whose palaces also linger in the memory as a dream of beauty.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Agra" id="Agra"></a>Agra</span>, <i>December 18th</i>: No one can visit Delhi and Agra without being
+impressed by the rulers of the golden period of the Mogul Empire, the
+great Akbar standing forth prominently as a wise potentate and the
+strongest personality in Indian history, certainly in Central India. His
+son, Jahangir, was not his equal, but his mantle of power seems to have
+descended to his grandson, Shah Jahan, who, like him, was famed in the
+matter of building, as we have seen at Delhi, and furthermore were to
+see at Agra, our next<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span> point of observation. We arrived on the afternoon
+of December 18th and proceeded to the H&ocirc;tel Metropole.</p>
+
+<p>As the train approached the city, we caught a glimpse of that
+incomparable creation, the Taj Mahal, and were immediately under its
+spell, so we at once took carriages and were conveyed there. As we drew
+near, the massive, finely proportioned gateway burst upon us. The
+entrance is of red sandstone, with Moorish arches and pavilions, while a
+wall of masonry, with turreted corners, encircles the grounds. At the
+centre of the two adjacent sides are gateways of similar construction to
+the entrance. One is, however, unprepared for the white-domed vision
+beyond, which at once inspired admiration and awe. The first view was at
+sunset, and the atmosphere was filled with a golden haze that rested
+lovingly on the graceful turrets and dome. We lingered on to catch the
+moonlight effect, and as the twilight faded and the outlines became
+shadowy, there was a peculiar illusion, which was heightened by the
+first glimmering silvery light, soon to be succeeded by a full radiance
+which illumined the white marble pile and the whole environment. We sat
+spellbound amidst the loveliness of the scene; no one spoke, and this
+silent tribute of respect was shared by other "lookers on."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 338px;">
+<img src="images/image28.jpg" width="338" height="500" alt="Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Kutub_Minar_the_Tower_of_Victory_in_Old_Delhi" id="Kutub_Minar_the_Tower_of_Victory_in_Old_Delhi"></a>Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi</span></div>
+
+<p>Our last visit was in the full effulgence of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span>morning, when we were
+able to obtain new points of view, and to visit the adjacent red
+sandstone mosque, as well as the corresponding opposite edifice (which
+is an audience room). Some of the party crossed the river Jumna, which
+runs back of the grounds, so as to see the reflection of the Taj in the
+water. No words of mine can fitly describe the impression, but figures
+sometimes aid the imagination. The foundation is three hundred and
+thirteen feet square and eighteen feet in height, and the edifice itself
+is one hundred and eighty-six feet square, with a dome rising to the
+height of two hundred and twenty feet. At each corner of the foundation
+stands a tall, graceful minaret, one hundred and thirty-seven feet in
+height. Add to this the statement that it took twenty thousand men
+seventeen years to complete the work, at a cost variously estimated at
+from $17,000,000 to $20,000,000, and you may form an idea of the
+delicate workmanship and artistic skill which the Taj represents. But
+simplicity is, after all, the keynote, and there is also a rare
+personality in its outlines reflecting feminine grace. This is
+distinctly felt when viewing the cenotaph (the real tomb is in a crypt
+below), which is, like the entire edifice, built of the whitest of
+marble and decorated with rare, beautiful designs, while the screen
+which encloses the cenotaph of the Queen is also of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span> marble, carved in a
+lacework design of exquisite beauty.</p>
+
+<p>The diamonds, pearls, rubies, and other precious stones which once
+embellished this and every other part of the edifice, were taken away by
+ruthless invaders of India; and their places filled by colored stones
+with little loss of effect. Shah Jahan's cenotaph lies unenclosed at the
+left, showing that it was not included in the original plan. Indeed, it
+had been the intention of Shah Jahan to build for himself a mausoleum,
+of corresponding style, yet of dark marble, across the river Jumna; the
+shadow which rested on his later life prevented the idea from being
+carried out. But the creation of this tribute to all womanhood typified
+in his beloved wife is a monument which time cannot efface. Arjamand
+Banu Begum was a Persian princess of rare beauty and of great personal
+charm. She died in giving birth to her eighth child, and through all the
+years had held the supreme place in Shah Jahan's life; despite the
+Oriental custom of having other wives, she had won for herself the title
+of Mumtaz-i-Mahal, "The exalted of the Palace." Hence the Eastern habit
+of placing a mausoleum in a garden was peculiarly fitting for so
+peerless a queen; in this instance it forms a perfect setting for the
+Taj.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image29.jpg" width="500" height="342" alt="Gateway leading to Taj Mahal" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Gateway_leading_to_Taj_Mahal" id="Gateway_leading_to_Taj_Mahal"></a>Gateway leading to Taj Mahal</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image30.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="Taj Mahal" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Taj_Mahal" id="Taj_Mahal"></a>Taj Mahal</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image31.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Screen in Taj Mahal" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Screen_in_Taj_Mahal" id="Screen_in_Taj_Mahal"></a>Screen in Taj Mahal</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image32.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Shah Jahan and his wife in whose memory the Taj was built" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Shah_Jahan_and_his_wife_in_whose_memory_the_Taj_was_built" id="Shah_Jahan_and_his_wife_in_whose_memory_the_Taj_was_built"></a>Shah Jahan and his wife in whose memory the Taj was built</span></div>
+
+<p>The garden was redeemed from a hopeless tangle (into which it had
+fallen), under the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span>direction of Lord Curzon, who did so much to stay
+ruin and devastation. It is laid out in a conventional style, one square
+being devoted to roses, another to poinsettia, while long stretches of
+foliage plants here and there, with a mass of dark green cypress trees,
+give it a breadth of view that is enhanced by a marble avenue, leading
+from the entrance to the tombs, the sweep of avenue being broken midway
+by a marble seat from which a fine view of the Taj is afforded. Running
+parallel were marble aqueducts which contained, at set intervals,
+playing fountains; these were inactive, however, at the time of our
+visits. One could return to the Taj day after day, as the subtle
+influence of its beauty and its spiritual significance are ever present.
+Sad indeed was the fate of the builder, Shah Jahan, who ruled from 1620
+to 1658 and who was then deposed by his son, Aurangzeb. The latter
+transferred the capital to Delhi, causing his father to languish seven
+long years in a small suite of rooms in the palace at Agra as a
+prisoner, his only companion a devoted daughter.</p>
+
+<p>While the centre of attraction in Agra is the Taj Mahal, the fort,
+palace, and Moti Musjid (Pearl Mosque) are of equal interest. Here we
+see the impress of three rulers, Akbar (the grandson of the noted Mogul
+king, Baber, and son of Humayun, both of whom lived at Agra), Jahangir,
+his son, and Shah Jahan, his grandson.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span></p><p>Akbar removed to Agra, from the old capital Fatehpur-Sikri, about 1568,
+but the only monuments that are now attributed to him are the massive
+walls of the fort and the red palace. Jahangir built the palace which
+bears his name, but as it is somewhat gloomy in appearance, his chief
+claims to distinction as a builder are the tombs of Itimid-ud-Daulah and
+Akbar's tomb at Sikandra. Shah Jahan built the palace which contains the
+beautiful Diwan-i-Am, or Hall of Public Audience; the Diwan-i-Khas, or
+Hall of Private Audience; the Shish Mahal, or Mirror Palace; the
+Saman-Burj, known as the Octagon, or Jasmine Tower; the Mina Musjid, or
+Gem Palace (the private mosque of the Emperor); with many other notable
+edifices. The Moti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque, is furnished with a superb
+exterior setting.</p>
+
+<p>Having described similar halls in the palace at Delhi, I will only
+briefly enumerate some distinguishing features of each of the buildings
+just mentioned. All were either injured or defaced in the mutiny
+conflict of 1857, which raged in Agra from May 10th to October 10th, six
+thousand women and children, with a few men, having found a refuge there
+during the siege. A feature of the Public Audience Room is a grille in
+the back wall, through which the Sultanas or members of the Zenana could
+watch the proceedings below; and in the centre of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span> hall is a
+raised alcove of white marble, richly decorated in low relief.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image33.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Agra Palace and part of wall and gateway to the fort" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Agra_Palace_and_part_of_wall_and_gateway_to_the_fort" id="Agra_Palace_and_part_of_wall_and_gateway_to_the_fort"></a>Agra Palace and part of wall and gateway to the fort</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image34.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="An Octagon Tower of the Agra Palace" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="An_Octagon_Tower_of_the_Agra_Palace" id="An_Octagon_Tower_of_the_Agra_Palace"></a>An Octagon Tower of the Agra Palace</span></div>
+
+<p>The Hall of Private Audience consists of an open colonnade in front of
+an enclosed room at the back. The illustration shows the front
+overlooking the court, while beyond is the Octagon Tower, the residence
+of the chief Sultana. In the court a portion of the marble pavement is
+made to represent a pachisi or chess board, and it is said the game was
+played with slave girls, who were used instead of the customary
+chessmen. The Octagon Tower is built out over the river Jumna, as will
+be seen in a later picture.</p>
+
+<p>The portion known as the Mirror Palace is unique, as it consists of two
+dark rooms furnished with fountains and an artificial cascade arranged
+to fall over lighted lamps. The walls and ceilings are decorated with
+innumerable small mirrors which were restored in 1875. The palace
+measures seventy by forty feet, and is built at the east end of a garden
+two hundred and fifty feet square, planted with flowers and shrubs.
+Underneath the structure are subterranean apartments for use during the
+summer heat, and from here passages lead to still cooler rooms in
+another portion of the fort.</p>
+
+<p>In the southeast corner of this Anguri Bagh, or garden, are three finely
+decorated rooms which were once the private apartments of Shah Jahan.
+The Jahangir Mahal, or palace, is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span> noticeable on account of the bright
+red tiles used in the upper portion. It also has a fine domed hall which
+leads into a large central court.</p>
+
+<p>But the crowning single feature in this fort (which is over a mile in
+extent) is the Moti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque. Mr. Ferguson considers it
+to be "one of the purest and most elegant buildings of its class to be
+found in the world." It ranks next to the Taj Mahal among Shah Jahan's
+creations. The entrance gateway is of red sandstone and is approached by
+a lofty double staircase. The exterior is faced with slabs of red
+sandstone, but the interior is built of marble, white, blue, and gray
+veined. The courtyard of the mosque is deservedly celebrated. In the
+centre is a marble tank for ablutions, and a marble cloister runs around
+three of its sides. A flight of steps leads to the roof of the mosque,
+from which a fine view is obtained.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image35.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The Pearl Mosque" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Pearl_Mosque" id="The_Pearl_Mosque"></a>The Pearl Mosque</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image36.jpg" width="500" height="347" alt="Akbar's tomb in Sikandra" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Akbar39s_tomb_in_Sikandra" id="Akbar39s_tomb_in_Sikandra"></a>Akbar's tomb in Sikandra</span></div>
+
+<p>A pleasant excursion across the river led us to the tasteful tomb of
+Itimid-ud-Daulah. The entrance gate is fine, and the approach through
+spacious, well-kept grounds gives one a wide perspective. The fa&ccedil;ade is
+of marble with considerable inlaid work. Itimid-ud-Daulah was a Persian
+High Treasurer, and the grandfather of the Lady of the Taj. The tomb was
+built by <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span>Shah Jahangir, as was that of King Akbar at Sikandra, five
+miles distant from Agra and a delightful excursion to make. It has an
+imposing gateway and is situated in the midst of a veritable park. It is
+of red sandstone, inlaid with white marble, and is a pyramidal building,
+four stories high, the first three being of red sandstone and the fourth
+of marble. The base measures three hundred and twenty feet, and the
+fourth story one hundred and fifty-seven feet (narrow stairways leading
+upward), which indicates a gradual decrease and tapering in size. A
+massive cloister runs around the lower story, and the fourth story is
+occupied by the marble cenotaph of Akbar, directly over the crypt which
+contains his tomb. The cenotaph is engraved with ninety-nine names of
+the deity. This story is surrounded by a white marble cloister, and on
+the outer side of each arch is an oval-shaped recess, filled with
+delicate lacework carving of varied patterns in marble. The effect is
+unlike anything elsewhere seen. There are several other historic tombs
+in the vicinity, and many points of interest all the way to Akbar's old
+capital, Fatehpur-Sikri. This is twenty-two miles distant, a day's
+excursion, and easily reached in automobiles; although it took some
+faith to trust one's self to the rather indifferent chauffeurs.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span></p><p><span class="smcap"><a name="Fatehpur-Sikri" id="Fatehpur-Sikri"></a>Fatehpur-Sikri</span>: This royal but long-destroyed city is sacred to the
+memory of the Emperor Akbar, who built a gorgeous structure and selected
+the site through the advice of the renowned Saint Selim Chisti. He
+eventually abandoned it on account of its unhealthy location, and
+transferred the capital to Agra, where, as we have seen, he built a fort
+and the red palace. There is an unusually imposing gateway on one side
+of Fatehpur-Sikri, leading up to the mosque, but we made our entrance
+from the adjacent side; hence our first view was like that in the
+illustration. A large, five-story building to the left served as a
+recreation place for the ladies of the court, while back and to the left
+of this was seen the beautiful dome of the mosque, said to be almost a
+counterpart of the one at Mecca. So many and varied are the buildings in
+this fort that it is inexpedient to do more than allude briefly to them.</p>
+
+<p>The three palaces of the Sultanas are notable for their beauty, variety,
+and wealth of ornament, the Sultanas being Miriam, the Portuguese
+Christian; Rakinah, Akbar's cousin; and the Turkish Sultana. The Emperor
+also has a suite of several rooms. The palace of Birbal, Akbar's prime
+minister, is, architecturally, the most perfect of any in the enclosure
+and was built for his daughter. The rooms allotted to the Zenana are
+spacious. Near the recreation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span> building is the famous pachisi or chess
+board, similar to the one at Agra, where Akbar and his vizier, sitting
+opposite, marshalled the slave girls to and fro.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image37.jpg" width="500" height="339" alt="General view of Fatehpur-Sikri" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="General_view_of_Fatehpur-Sikri" id="General_view_of_Fatehpur-Sikri"></a>General view of Fatehpur-Sikri</span></div>
+
+<p>The plan of the mosque is unusual in its construction, and so is the
+massive gateway. Passing through the latter, an exquisite monument
+presents itself in the tomb of Selim Chisti, the venerable hermit saint,
+who lived a retired existence in a cave and yet who was the controlling
+force in Akbar's life. The place is simple, and displays such delicacy
+of skill in its composition as to excite admiration. It is surrounded by
+a beautiful white marble lattice-work screen, ornamented with brass, and
+the canopy over the tomb of the saint is inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
+The photograph is very effective, but, like many others, it has to be
+omitted (I have five hundred scenes of the tour). The public audience
+room is encompassed by cloisters. There is a treasury, a mint, a record
+office, and a building with three large rooms known as the Minchauli
+Anch, which is said to be the place where the Emperor played
+hide-and-seek with the ladies of the court; this is probably an
+erroneous statement.</p>
+
+<p>The most unusual building is the Diwan-i-Khas, the council chamber. From
+the outside it seems to be two stories high, yet there is really but one
+story with a large central pillar which is surrounded by an immense
+circular capital.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span> From this radiates four stone causeways to the
+corners of the room; these are enclosed by an open trellis with stone
+balustrades. The shaft of the pillar is finely carved, and all is in
+perfect condition, due to careful restoration. It is said that the
+Emperor sat in the centre of the pillar when he held a council, while
+the four advisers sat in the corners. Stone staircases lead to the roof,
+where a glimpse of the whole enclosure is afforded. A novel view is
+obtained down a stone-paved roadway, leading to a large court, at the
+north end of which is the deer minaret, or circular tower, seventy feet
+high, decorated with protruding elephants' tusks in stone. From the
+lanterns at the top, the Emperor is said to have shot antelopes drawn
+under the column by beaters employed for that special purpose.</p>
+
+<p>Reading between the lines, one learns that Akbar was a very peculiar
+character, domineering and despotic, yet generous to the immediate
+members of his household and to his favorite courtiers,&mdash;he was very
+cruel, however, when they displeased him; very broad in his religious
+views; and although a devoted Mohammedan, he was tolerant of all
+religions, and there are accounts of religious discussions taking place,
+in which every shade of belief was represented. He decreed that his
+daughters should all marry Hindu princes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;">
+<img src="images/image38.jpg" width="336" height="500" alt="A column in the Audience Hall (Diwan-i-Khas)" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_column_in_the_Audience_Hall" id="A_column_in_the_Audience_Hall"></a>A column in the Audience Hall (Diwan-i-Khas)</span></div>
+
+<p>Our guide told us that formerly there were <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span>underground passages and
+apartments, but he did not state, as did another guide to a party of
+tourists at Agra, that these apartments were for the disciplining and
+torturing of the members of the Zenana and even of his wives. Taking
+into consideration the attention he gave to the comfort and pleasure of
+the ladies of the court, as seen in the palaces and the large recreation
+building extant, this statement appears inconsistent, and so it is
+necessary to give him the benefit of the doubt. The "auto" ride back to
+Agra was accomplished without any broken limbs, and another red-letter
+day was ended.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Agra one should either visit the Taj Mahal for a final
+look, or, from the Jasmine Tower of the palace, gaze through the
+intervening two miles of space to catch its shadowy outline as seen by
+Shah Jahan during those seven solitary years of vigil. I chose the
+latter method for convenience' sake, after visiting the bazars, and in
+consequence was rewarded with a never-to-be-forgotten view.</p>
+
+<p>Delhi and Agra are indissolubly connected by their rulers and by
+historical events; in leaving them one feels as if never again would so
+much of unique interest be presented in the line of architectural skill
+and poetic sentiment.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Cawnpore" id="Cawnpore"></a>Cawnpore</span>, <i>December 24th</i>: We took a night train from Agra to Cawnpore,
+arriving there<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> early on the morning of December 24th and stopping over
+a few hours to break the journey. Cawnpore is full of mutiny memories,
+and we visited some of the historic points, going first to the Ghat
+(steps) where cruel Nana Sahib burned, or murdered, a boatload of
+Englishmen; also to other scenes of horror. Then we went to the memorial
+well, and to the memorial church with its peaceful interior, which was
+being decorated with greens in true English fashion, for the service of
+the morrow, when "Peace and good will to men" would ring out, and for
+the time being mutiny memories would be forgotten. We drove to the park,
+where, as an accessory to a certain artistic building, there is to be
+seen an exquisite angel of carved marble, a memorial erected by the
+Government. Next, we visited some bazars of no special interest.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Lucknow" id="Lucknow"></a>Lucknow</span>, <i>December 24th</i>: After luncheon, we took the train for Lucknow.
+On the way, Murray's "Lucknow" was re-read, and another mutiny chapter
+added. Lucknow is the capital of the province of Oudh. In 1813 the
+English conferred the title of king on the ruler, but, for reasons of
+distrust, withdrew it in 1856, and at the same time discharged eighty
+thousand high-caste soldiers,&mdash;an action which produced instant
+dissatisfaction and was one of the direct causes for the mutiny. We
+arrived<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span> at Wutzler's Royal Hotel in the late afternoon, and felt
+gladdened by the comfort and good cheer that awaited us,&mdash;a hopeful sign
+inasmuch as the morrow was Christmas Day. A drive to Wingfield Park and
+a visit to an exquisite tomb mosque ended the sight-seeing day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image39.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Jasmine_Tower_and_distant_view_of_the_Taj" id="Jasmine_Tower_and_distant_view_of_the_Taj"></a>Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image40.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The ghat at Cawnpore" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_ghat_at_Cawnpore" id="The_ghat_at_Cawnpore"></a>The ghat at Cawnpore</span></div>
+
+<p>Christmas without the usual morning service seemed peculiar, but the law
+of the majority in our party prevailed, and we drove instead to the Fort
+and Residency, the centre of interest since 1857. The awe and solemnity
+inspired by that visit, with the Christmas bells ever and anon breaking
+the silence, can never be forgotten. The Residency is situated in the
+centre of a large park which was the scene of a siege lasting from July
+1 to November 17, 1857, three thousand men, women, and children, besides
+the military, being there for safety. The number of refugees was reduced
+to one thousand by September; the large rooms on the ground floor of the
+Government building, with two stories above and extensive subterranean
+rooms, made their stay possible, but involved great suffering and
+horrible death as the siege went on. The large banquet hall of the
+Residency near by was converted into a hospital. Both buildings are now
+in ruins. But the roofless Residency with a tangle of vines (and a
+decrepit stairway that leads upward) furnishes a fine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span> view of the whole
+scene, which in its very quietness bespeaks bravery, endurance, and
+heroic suffering.</p>
+
+<p>The buildings of Lucknow are not important, with the exception of the
+Jumma Musjid, the great Imambara with its fine gateway, court, and
+arcades. The Imambara Mosque has two minarets, and the great Imambara
+Hall, one hundred and sixty-three by fifty-three feet and forty-nine
+feet high, is one of the largest vaulted galleries in the world. The
+palaces of the late king of Oudh, the clock tower and other mosques and
+tombs, were visited, for, as usual, the persistent guide insisted on our
+seeing all the "sights" (exaggerating the descriptions, it always
+seemed, in proportion to their lack of importance), and it was "Memsahib
+this" and "Memsahib that." Christmas Day, with a June temperature, soon
+came to a close; the dinner was somewhat English in its many
+appointments, with its roast beef and plum pudding,&mdash;other home touches
+being added by our ever-thoughtful Director. There was good cheer, but
+we silently thought of home and the friends far away.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image41.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The Residency at Lucknow" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Residency_at_Lucknow" id="The_Residency_at_Lucknow"></a>The Residency at Lucknow</span></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Benares" id="Benares"></a>Benares</span>, <i>December 26th</i>: Benares is the sacred city of India, and the
+river Ganges with the ghats is the point where thousands upon thousands
+of worshippers congregate, coming <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span>from every point where Hinduism
+prevails. We had anticipated revolting scenes, and were not
+disappointed, as the superstition of the devotees, the grasping conduct
+of the priests, and the disgusting practices in the name of so-termed
+religion all contributed to that end. We arrived during the afternoon of
+December 26th, going to the H&ocirc;tel de Paris. A drive was instantly
+proposed, and we were taken to the Maharaja's palace, with grounds laid
+out conventionally, the trees and shrubs representing peacocks and
+animals of different kinds. The palace was spacious but tawdrily
+furnished; it is noteworthy as being the home to which the Maharaja and
+his family repair whenever they feel the approach of death; there is a
+superstition among the Hindus that death must occur on the north bank of
+the sacred river Ganges, in order to become a monkey after death
+(monkeys are considered sacred); for if the demise occurs on the
+opposite side of the Ganges, one would surely become a donkey.</p>
+
+<p>We next turned toward the celebrated Monkey Temple, a pretentious but
+inartistic structure of red sandstone, presided over by the monster wife
+of Siva, the Goddess Kali, who is seated on an interior shrine and
+almost terrifies the beholder by her demoniacal smile, her neck being
+wreathed with skulls. The Goddess of Blood demands a daily sacrifice,
+usually a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span> goat and sometimes even a buffalo. At least twenty
+terrible-looking priests were in attendance upon her when we arrived and
+were ready to slay the inoffensive goat if money was forthcoming. We,
+however, declined to witness such a spectacle. Monkeys, disgustingly old
+and fat, were everywhere, and filled large trees surrounding the temple,
+two hundred at least being visible. Beggars, mendicants, and priests
+were abundantly in evidence.</p>
+
+<p>In an attempt to throw some small coins to some children, I was nearly
+crushed, the crowd closing around me and separating me from my party,
+until a tall Brahman priest with a huge stick checked the mob and I
+escaped, to be admonished by the Director of the party, who declared
+that I must never repeat the experiment, however much my sympathies
+might be drawn upon by the scenes that impressed me.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image42.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Bathing ghat, Benares" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Bathing_ghat_Benares" id="Bathing_ghat_Benares"></a>Bathing ghat, Benares</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image43.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Burning_ghat_Benares_where_cremations_occur" id="Burning_ghat_Benares_where_cremations_occur"></a>Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<p>The following morning we proceeded at 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> to the scene of all others
+in Benares, the bathing ghats. These are steps leading down from the
+plateau to the river on the banks of the Ganges and extending a distance
+of nearly three miles. Seated in a native small boat, we sailed
+leisurely up and down for hours, watching the unusual spectacle. The
+Brahman priests were everywhere (there being thirty thousand in Benares
+who live on the offerings of the pilgrims), some seated under
+umbrella-like canopies, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span>some under tents, others bathing, and others
+performing certain sacred offices for the devotees who had come hither
+in state, on elephants or camels, by train or on foot, all intent on
+securing an increase of religious zeal. The crowds bathing in the sacred
+river are a continuous spectacle. There are piers built out into the
+stream for convenience, filled with pilgrims of every hue and variety of
+dress and undress, some simply wearing the loin cloth, which startled us
+at first, but now seemed the legitimate outcome of a lean purse and a
+hot climate.</p>
+
+<p>In addition, there is a continuous refrain of voices in solemn
+supplication to one or more of the many thousands of Hindu gods, for it
+has been stated that there are two hundred thousand divinities in India.
+At one point there is a burning ghat, and one morning we witnessed the
+preparation for two cremations, one of a poor man and the other of the
+wife of a Maharaja. The two ceremonies differed little, except that the
+wood for the funeral pile of one cost a mere pittance, while the
+sandalwood for the latter cost six hundred rupees. The corpse is carried
+on a small litter, or bier, made of bamboo sticks (a man is robed in
+white and a woman in red), and deposited in the Ganges, feet foremost;
+care is taken that the whole body be immersed in order that purification
+may be complete. The relatives arrange the pile of wood, about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span> eight
+logs being required. Then the body is transferred to the pyre, and the
+torch is applied by one of the family, the others sitting solemnly
+around in a circle. When consumed, the ashes are scattered in the river
+Ganges. It is a gruesome spectacle, however much it may be in the
+interest of sanitary science; but less so to me, who had witnessed the
+distribution of the bodies at the Towers of Silence in Bombay.</p>
+
+<p>It will be seen that the principal commodity in Benares is holiness; but
+there is one creditable industry, namely, the manufacture of brass.
+Several shops were visited, but we liked the modern styles less than the
+old Benares brass with which we were familiar.</p>
+
+<p>One thought was uppermost while in Benares; I had pondered over it
+before in our visit to India. It was that with the masses Hinduism
+to-day means superstition and idolatry, in spite of the fact that the
+earlier teaching was of a pure character. That the cultivated Hindus
+accept the practices and the priesthood is a mystery as subtle as the
+law of caste or the iron law of custom. It is a depressing thought, and
+causes a profound feeling of thankfulness that Providence placed us in a
+fairer land.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image44.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Tope_of_Sarnath" id="The_Tope_of_Sarnath"></a>The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares</span></div>
+
+<p>The missionary effort of England, America, and other countries has for
+years been directed toward changing the condition of the masses, but the
+law of caste is such that, to use a set <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span>phrase, if a man become a
+Christian, he is ostracized, even by the members of his own family,
+unless they too follow his example. He is also ostracized as regards any
+business he may follow, and the sacrifice he is forced to undergo seems
+almost too great for human endurance. Still, according to missionary
+reports, this sacrifice is frequently made, which is equivalent to true
+heroism. Naturally, the progress of proselyting is slower in India than
+in any other country of the Orient, but it is the consensus of opinion
+that a greater extension of hospitals in charge of so-termed
+missionaries and a greater extension of schools for the young are the
+leaven that will work satisfactory results in the future. Another
+reassuring sign is the establishment of the Central Hindu College at
+Benares by Mrs. A.B. Besant, the Theosophist. This is intended to
+elevate the Hindu youth, combining religious and moral education with
+mental and athletic development. We saw only the exterior of the
+building.</p>
+
+<p>Four miles from Benares, at the site of the old Benares, called Sarnath,
+is a most interesting ancient monument known as the Tope of Sarnath. It
+is the best preserved of any in Bengal. It was erected in Deer Park to
+mark the spot sanctified by the presence of Buddha. It was explored in
+1835 and found to be a stupa; but containing no relics, it was evidently
+intended<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span> to indicate the spot where Buddha first assumed his mission as
+a teacher. The tope consists of a stone basement ninety-three feet in
+diameter and solidly built of stone. Above the stone is brickwork rising
+to a height of one hundred and twenty feet from the plain. The lower
+story has niches evidently intended for a figure of Buddha, and below
+this is a band of sculptured ornaments of great beauty; it is thought
+from the evidences of ornamentation that in date it corresponds to the
+best period of Delhi. There is an interesting temple in the vicinity,
+and there formerly was a large Buddhist monastery. One also finds acres
+of mounds and debris indicating a large Buddhist foundation in the days
+when Buddha reigned supreme.</p>
+
+<p>We left Benares for Darjeeling the evening of December 27th, and the
+prospect of a glimpse of mountain scenery in the famed Himalaya
+foothills, eight thousand feet above the sea, was exhilarating after the
+depressing scenes behind us.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Siliguri" id="Siliguri"></a>Siliguri</span>, <i>December 28th</i>: We arrived at Siliguri early the following
+morning, December 28th, and were at once transferred to the Darjeeling
+and Himalayan Railway (two-foot gauge with open cars), a triumph of
+engineering skill on account of the sudden and wonderful curves which
+continue from the beginning to the end and cause the famous Horseshoe
+Curve <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span>of the Pennsylvania Railway to sink into insignificance. The
+ride was exciting, as every bend revealed something new and startling.
+Leaving the plain of Bengal behind us, which is a feature of interest,
+we commenced the ascent; first through a jungle of cane and grass, both
+very high, where tigers, leopards, bears, deer, and the like have their
+home; and next through a forest with few familiar trees save the giant
+oak. Higher up the graceful bamboo is seen, and still higher fruit trees
+are plentiful; then small tea plantations appear, and a more peaceful
+landscape. Another bold curve and the glorious snow-capped Kanchanjanga
+range is in full view,&mdash;a perfect panorama, the atmosphere being clear
+and the sky almost cloudless. It was one of the supreme moments of life.
+We were now nearing Darjeeling, having made a gradual descent during the
+last half-hour.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image45.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_view_of_Darjeeling_and_the_Kanchanjanga_Range" id="A_view_of_Darjeeling_and_the_Kanchanjanga_Range"></a>A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range</span></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Darjeeling" id="Darjeeling"></a>Darjeeling</span>, <i>December 28th</i>: The Woodlands Hotel, picturesquely situated
+on the side of a lesser mountain, became our abiding-place for all too
+short a time. Darjeeling is beautifully located upon a ridge, seven
+thousand feet above water level. The mountain side is picturesque with
+its sprinkling of villas and bungalows, tall mountains towering up as a
+background. The average temperature is eighty degrees in summer and
+thirty in winter; hence it is a favorite resort.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span> There is a sanitarium
+here, called "The Eden." The mountain views prove a great attraction;
+the Kanchanjanga range is seen beyond the intervening mountains, with a
+vast chasm in the foreground.</p>
+
+<p>The Mall is the principal promenade, and winds around Observatory Hill,
+from which fine glimpses of the country are to be obtained. In the
+vicinity is St. Andrew's Church, with interesting tablets, and near by
+the summer residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal.</p>
+
+<p>We were admonished to hurry our luncheon in order not to lose the
+opportunity of seeing the celebrated bazar of which we had heard so
+much, even in Bombay. I do not refer to the regular street bazar, but to
+a bazar at which crowds of peasants from different provinces congregate
+once a week for the sale of silver and turquoise jewelry, which is
+mostly exhibited on their persons, supplemented by a small bundle which
+is carried; but the transactions are very primitive and unlike those at
+any other bazar. Then there are the quaint things they wear,&mdash;artistic
+chatelaines with articles generally suspended and thrown over the
+shoulder, instead of worn around the waist, immense earrings,
+finger-rings, bracelets, and anklets; also large round silver pins for
+the hair, suspended between two long ornaments resembling an elongated
+corkscrew&mdash;all linked together with a narrow black ribbon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span> tied in a
+bow. The wearing of this latter head ornament was very grotesque, and I
+bought one taken from the hair of a peasant, besides purchasing some
+other articles which now serve as a reminder of the quaint scene. The
+dress of the men, women, and children was peculiar, and varied according
+to their province, such as Bhutias, Tibetans, Nepalese, Pelaris,
+Ghorkas, and others.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image46.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="A Nepaulese group" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_Nepaulese_group" id="A_Nepaulese_group"></a>A Nepaulese group</span></div>
+
+<p>Their shrewd faces were illuminated with smiles as they realized the
+success of a bargain which was doubtless far in excess of the value of
+the article purchased; or failing of a bargain their persistent attempts
+to secure one were amusing. As we walked around through the motley
+crowd, powerless to express ourselves except in the universal language
+of pantomime, with mountains all around us and the Kanchanjanga still in
+view, we felt as though we were a part of a play, it seemed so unreal.
+Later we visited the street bazars, all of them furnished with articles
+claimed to be antique. In the evening the proprietor of the hotel gave
+us an interesting description of scenes in Tibet, illustrated with
+lantern views.</p>
+
+<p>The cold of late December now became intense, and it required some
+courage to be called at three o'clock in the morning for an expedition
+to Tiger Hill to see the sun rise. A half-hour after, nevertheless, saw
+our departure, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span> you would have smiled at the spectacle I presented,
+seated in a chair with six bearers (two for a relay), rugs and cushions
+piled around me, the crowning feature being a red blanket which, at the
+last moment, one of the bearers draped around my shoulders. It was
+moonlight when we left the valley. The view of each mountain and gorge
+was marvellous, so unlike daylight, as the moon ever throws elusive
+shadows about all things it touches. Before we reached our destination,
+the first streak of dawn was faintly outlined against the horizon, as if
+heralding the approach of some great spectacle, which soon came in
+shades of gold and pink; then bursting forth like a great ball of fire
+which illuminated the whole scene, even the distant Kanchanjanga range
+being suffused with a pinkish glow. We held our breath and were
+thankful, for the guide had told us that a perfect sunrise was a rare
+occurrence. Mount Everest, 29,002 feet high, eighty miles distant, and
+the highest peak in the world, as usual was but dimly seen. After the
+excitement of the morning, the hot coffee and rolls which were provided
+for us proved most acceptable. We lingered on for a half-hour, amused
+that even above the clouds human nature is the same, as every bearer
+produced rings or other trinkets for our inspection and possible
+purchase. The descent was made in the blinding sunlight, and indeed it
+was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span> so warm that we laid aside our blankets, and we noted the different
+aspects which all Nature wore.</p>
+
+<p>A nine-o'clock breakfast followed, and we were ready for other
+experiences. The descent to Siliguri was not unlike the ascent, with the
+view reversed. A night train conveyed us to Sara Ghat, where we arrived
+early in the morning and were taken across the river Ganges to
+Dumonkdeah, where we took a train for Calcutta, one hundred and sixteen
+miles distant.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Calcutta" id="Calcutta"></a>Calcutta</span>, <i>December 31st</i>: There is, in a certain sense, a link between
+Benares and Calcutta; the latter is situated on the Hooghly River, which
+is an outlet of the river Ganges, but no resemblance exists between
+India's modern winter capital and the city of superstition. We arrived
+in Calcutta on December 31st, and repaired to the Strand Hotel. An
+afternoon drive to Eden Park proved delightful, and on every side we saw
+attractive surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>January 1st dawned brightly, and found us at 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> driving to the fine
+esplanade, called "The Maidan," and extending two miles. We were on our
+way to witness the great annual military review by the Viceroy, now Lord
+Minto. Presentation Day is the term here applied to New Year's Day. It
+was a gala occasion indeed, and the equipages of the rich, and the
+smaller<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span> vehicles of all descriptions, encircled the barrier that
+intervened between the spectators and those who were to furnish the
+display. There were also hundreds on foot, some of them in the brilliant
+native dress of various colors, with their many-hued turbans. This was
+specially noticeable in the livery of many of the native carriages,
+where gold trimmings were profuse, and the same scheme was carried out
+in the dress of the two coachmen and two footmen, the latter being
+called <i>syces</i>. The militia presented a splendid appearance, and the
+infantry marched with the greatest precision, but the cavalry, as usual,
+carried off the honors as regards spectacular display, particularly the
+native cavalry with their picturesque dress. Lord Minto and his aides
+were elegantly decked in their accoutrements and elicited much cheering.</p>
+
+<p>We returned for a nine-thirty breakfast, and left afterwards for a
+sight-seeing expedition, having been warned not to expect much in this
+line at Calcutta. St. Paul's Cathedral&mdash;English&mdash;was interesting on
+account of the many memorials and statues, one of Bishop Heber having
+much merit. Fort William and the grounds of the Government House, the
+Dalhousie Club, the Black Hole, and other points were also visited.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image47.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The Government House in Calcutta" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Government_House_in_Calcutta" id="The_Government_House_in_Calcutta"></a>The Government House in Calcutta</span></div>
+
+<p>The Black Hole is so often mentioned in connection with Calcutta that a
+few words of explanation <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span>seem necessary. It was at the time of the
+siege of Calcutta in 1756 a small room in the barracks, twenty-two by
+fourteen feet in size, and sixteen feet in height. One hundred human
+beings were crowded into it on the night of June 20th, and there were
+only twenty-three survivors in the morning. A memorial obelisk was
+erected by one of these survivors, and this was restored by order of
+Lord Curzon.</p>
+
+<p>The Imperial Museum is a very large building and has extensive
+geological and arch&aelig;ological departments. It also possesses a fine
+library.</p>
+
+<p>We omitted the burning ghat, remembering the one at Benares, but a Hindu
+temple revealed another repulsive goddess, Kali, and the sacrifice of
+the goat had just occurred. The river front has a ghat for bathing.</p>
+
+<p>A drive to the distant Botanical Gardens proved of much interest, and
+the largest banyan tree in the world was there displayed, having four
+hundred and sixty-four aerial branches and covering over an acre in
+extent; there were also long avenues of palms.</p>
+
+<p>Lacking the fine harbor of Bombay, Calcutta is still a city of great
+commercial importance and of many natural attractions and fine public
+buildings. It is, however, a place of decided contrasts, imposing
+streets of residences being not far distant from as wretched a native
+quarter as may be seen in any other Indian city.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span> To the casual tourist
+Calcutta seems a large English city (eight hundred thousand
+inhabitants), especially so in the life on the Maidan, the centre of
+attraction and fashion. Eden Park is also greatly frequented, and the
+race-course is the finest in India; but, notwithstanding, Calcutta has
+not the charm of Bombay. The Strand Hotel gave us an elaborate menu for
+our New Year's dinner, which was supplemented by flowers and bonbons,
+and we all voted the occasion, even if in a foreign land, a success. And
+so I link Lucknow and Calcutta together in the holiday column of my
+memory.</p>
+
+<p>I have before alluded to the sad, dejected faces of the natives of North
+India; the Bengali seemed a trifle more melancholy, as is their
+reputation. We did not regret our departure, although it meant the loss
+of our faithful Indian guide, Dalle, and our travelling servant, Jusef,
+both with their long India bordered shawls artistically thrown over one
+shoulder, and their high white turbans rolled round and round the head,
+the finishing touch being a tall conical ornament that stood up in the
+centre. This is significant of their territorial province, styles of
+turbans varying with the locality. The early hour of 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> found us
+departing on the British and India line for a steamer trip of three
+days, Rangoon being our destination.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image48.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="An avenue of palms in the Botanical Gardens" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="An_avenue_of_palms_in_the_Botanical_Gardens" id="An_avenue_of_palms_in_the_Botanical_Gardens"></a>An avenue of palms in the Botanical Gardens</span></div>
+
+<p>The trip was restful, but afforded little variety, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span>and we hailed our
+arrival at Rangoon with delight early on the morning of January 6th. By
+a late decision we concluded to go on at once to Mandalay and leave
+Rangoon to be visited on our return. Taking a train at noon, we were
+favored by journeying in <i>de luxe</i> cars, sacred to the use of high
+officials, and so complete in equipment as to include bathroom,
+shower-bath, and other conveniences. The afternoon ride was through a
+fertile country, rice and bananas being the principal products. The rice
+crop had been garnered, and piles of bags were ready at every station
+for shipment to Rangoon (the amount shipped is two hundred thousand tons
+annually). Later we visited a field where rice was being harvested. It
+is not unlike wheat in the sheaf, but smaller. The country process after
+cutting is first to pound the rice, and then winnow it so as to remove
+the hull; this is done by throwing it in the air, by means of a round
+flat plate with a handle. Machinery is used in the cities.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Burma" id="Burma"></a>Burma</span>: We were now far from the centre of things, in a remote corner of
+Southeastern Asia, hidden in the midst of mountains, which were for ages
+the safeguard against Indian invaders and the aggression of China.
+Proselyting Buddhists, however, found their way from India and brought
+civilization with them.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span></p><p>There is a great diversity of races in Burma, various foreign tribes
+having come there and remained, making a mixed population. There are now
+about sixty thousand Palaings wearing the Chin dress. The Kachins, a
+warlike people, formerly made raids on the Burmans who lived on the
+border of China, the Chins dwelling among the hills. The Karens are
+numerically the strongest and live in the delta of the Irrawaddy. They
+had been an oppressed people, but achieved their liberty under British
+rule, and it is estimated that one hundred thousand abjured Buddhism and
+became Christians. The Chins are the oldest, having come from China two
+thousand years ago.</p>
+
+<p>Southern Burma was under British rule before the middle of the
+nineteenth century, but it is only since January, 1886, that England has
+controlled Northern Burma. King Thebaw's downfall was caused by his
+numerous cruel acts to foreigners, which compelled the British to take
+steps to check him. His headquarters were at Mandalay, and his deserted
+palace is the centre of attraction to-day. The most prominent feature is
+the fort, in and about which are grouped the palace of the King, the
+houses of Government officials and residents of the military quarter.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image49.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Fort_Dufferin_and_the_moat_Mandalay" id="Fort_Dufferin_and_the_moat_Mandalay"></a>Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image50.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the Universe" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Mandalay_palace_and_its_tower" id="Mandalay_palace_and_its_tower"></a>Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the Universe</span></div>
+
+<p>The palace was erected by Mindon Min, King Thebaw's father. It covers an
+immense area and is encompassed by a high wall of red <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span>brick, in which
+are twelve gates, each one surrounded by a conical cupola, with layers
+of upturned eaves after the peculiar fashion of the country; the same
+thing is characteristic of China.</p>
+
+<p>The fort is entirely surrounded by a moat, one hundred feet wide and
+twelve feet deep. Five bridges also lead from five of the gateways. The
+moat supplies drinking water for the city and is covered with the purple
+lotus blossom. Its width and extent make it a characteristic feature of
+Mandalay. Roads run parallel with the walls and lead to the entrance of
+the palace gardens, once very beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>The palace is a square of twenty or more buildings, built of teak,
+painted red, and covered originally with gold leaf. The roofs have
+layers of upturned eaves, and the buildings are richly decorated with
+colored ornamentation, while the worn gilding and faded reds are blended
+in the peculiar shading which time alone can give. There are many
+audience rooms, these usually furnished with elaborately decorated
+thrones, as is also the audience room in the beautiful adjacent palace
+of the Queen; her throne and the King's great throne in the principal
+audience room under the lofty cupola (called pyathat, and termed by the
+people the "Centre of the Universe") are especially imposing and rich in
+decoration. On either side of this audience<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span> chamber are large audience
+rooms; these were used for some time after the British occupation as a
+church for the soldiers, and the Queen's palace was turned into a
+resting place for the Upper Burma Club; now both the church and the club
+have appropriate edifices of their own. Between two of the principal
+rooms is a screen, utilized as a wall and panelled in glass, mosaic, and
+mirrors, which is very effective and reminds one of the glass room in
+the palace at Amber.</p>
+
+<p>From the high hill at Mandalay, one may gain an excellent general view
+of the many pagodas and monasteries in which the city abounds; for this
+is verily the land of the pagoda. The most beautiful of all, called the
+Incomparable, was destroyed by fire. One of great interest was built by
+Mindon Min, and called the Kuthodau, or, more generally, the 450
+Pagodas, but there are said to be seven hundred and twenty-nine cupolas
+surrounding the great central pagoda, each containing an alabaster slab
+upon which are engraved some texts of Buddha taken from the Pali Bible,
+the King thinking thus to perpetuate them,&mdash;the whole surrounded by a
+wall, in which are built two richly decorated gates.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image51.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The Arakan Pagoda" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Arakan_Pagoda" id="The_Arakan_Pagoda"></a>The Arakan Pagoda</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image52.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="One_of_the_four_gateways_to_the_450_Pagodas" id="One_of_the_four_gateways_to_the_450_Pagodas"></a>One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas</span></div>
+
+<p>Situated very near the so-termed 450 Pagodas is a group of attractive
+pagodas in carved wood and plaster of different designs. In the centre
+is an unfinished marble pagoda, called Kyauk <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span>Taw Gyi, which contains
+a huge attractive figure of Buddha, twenty-five feet high.</p>
+
+<p>On the same morning we visited the glass monastery which once on a time
+had been very imposing. Here we saw the Bishop and a number of novice
+priests receiving instruction, taking, I imagine, a kind of postgraduate
+course. All were most affable and seemed happy, as does every one in
+Burma. At this monastery two of our party were given copies of a portion
+of the Burmese Bible.</p>
+
+<p>Monasteries are also very prominent in Burma, and they are usually boys'
+schools, both for young and adult people.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we visited the great Arakan Pagoda, a shrine which
+pilgrims of the Buddhist faith frequent from all over the world. It is
+built in the form of a square tower, rising in a series of terraces,
+growing smaller and ending in a finial at the summit. There are also
+battlements with finials capping the top. The whole is gilded and is
+very magnificent in appearance, even to the gilded figure of Buddha,
+which occupies the principal throne. The day we were there, the throne
+was surrounded by worshippers, and the long passages leading from the
+pagoda to it were densely thronged. There are four smaller passages,
+each being filled with stalls where is displayed almost every
+conceivable article, even to fruit and flowers. Near one of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span> the
+passages are two large tanks filled with grayish water where are kept
+the sacred turtles. The turtles were fed while we were present and
+seemed very tame. In the adjacent enclosure we saw many large bells of
+graduated size, for which Burma is famous. In an enclosure young men
+were playing the game of football, called "Chinlon," in that country,
+which means "round basket," the ball being about six inches in diameter.
+The players stand in a circle a few feet apart. The ball is thrown by
+one, and the player nearest to whom it falls kicks it in the air, and
+attempts to repeat this feat several times in order to keep the ball up,
+but failing to do so, the next player gains possession and throws it,
+and so on.</p>
+
+<p>The visit to the Queen's Golden Monastery was peculiarly interesting. It
+is a fine specimen of native architecture, made of elaborately carved
+teakwood, finely gilded, but showing the marks of age. In the large
+central room, from which leads a smaller room separated only by columns,
+the so-called golden image of Buddha (also bejewelled) rests on a raised
+dais, and in front is a long table containing a great variety of votive
+offerings to the deity from a widely scattered circle of believers. The
+columns surrounding these rooms were profusely decorated with glass
+ornamentation, and the effect was startling. The Bishop in his robe of
+yellow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span> silk&mdash;the color of the Buddhist priesthood&mdash;was gracious, and
+the young priests very jolly. We received several presents of long
+narrow books written on palm-leaf, the text being a translation in
+modern Burmese from the old Pali Bible. It is unnecessary to add that we
+left compensation, the sale of said books being forbidden; hence such is
+the way of evading the law!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image53.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The Queen's Golden Monastery" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Queen39s_Golden_Monastery" id="The_Queen39s_Golden_Monastery"></a>The Queen's Golden Monastery</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image54.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Karen women in Mandalay" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Karen_women_in_Mandalay" id="Karen_women_in_Mandalay"></a>Karen women in Mandalay</span></div>
+
+<p>This monastery contained, like the Silver Monastery, a school for
+children. On our departure, an interesting little episode occurred. A
+young priest draped his long yellow robe around one of the gentlemen, in
+veritable Roman toga style, the right arm and shoulder being exposed.
+Then one of the party took a photograph, promising to send a copy to the
+monastery.</p>
+
+<p>The support of the Buddhist monasteries depends on charity, and a
+procession of priests from each monastery goes about with mendicant
+bowls or baskets, each morning soliciting food and fruit, everything
+being placed in one receptacle. Rice, however, is the principal
+contribution.</p>
+
+<p>We also visited the Aindaw-Yah Pagoda, the oldest in Mandalay. This is
+entirely gilt, from base to spire, and presents an imposing appearance.
+It is surrounded by a large square or platform on which are placed
+various other shrines containing small images of Buddha.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span></p><p>The cause of there being so many pagodas in Burma is that thereby the
+builder gains renown and paves the way for greater happiness in a future
+state. For the above reason the pagoda is seldom repaired. The builder
+desires to be approached as "the builder of a pagoda," and invariably
+addresses his wife as "O wife of a pagoda builder." Architecturally the
+pagoda, in general, may be described as having a spire, massive
+throughout, rising from a circular, square, or octagonal base, in a
+succession of tiers or circles, of which the upper is always narrower
+than the one beneath it.</p>
+
+<p>The principal industry of Mandalay is the weaving of silk, for which it
+is very celebrated, and a visit to the bazar was most interesting.
+Unlike the bazars previously described, this was a large, high building,
+filled with aisles and furnished with long tables, at the back of which
+sat the saleswomen; all the business of the bazar is carried on by
+women. There was a great variety of silk weaving of every conceivable
+shape and style, the sarong being prominent. This is a long colored
+garment which the women of Burma wear pinned tightly around them below
+the waist, unlike the fuller skirt we had seen in India, the dress being
+completed by a short, loose jacket which shows a white under-vest and a
+long, wide sash. The market was also very interesting, in a small
+building next or adjoining the silk bazar.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image55.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Burmese country house near Mandalay" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Burmese_country_house_near_Mandalay" id="Burmese_country_house_near_Mandalay"></a>Burmese country house near Mandalay</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span></p><p>It may be well to speak here of the happy, contented, pleasure-loving
+Burmese women. Indeed, their condition could have been envied a few
+years ago, even in a portion of our own United States, as they can hold
+property in their own right and are entitled to their earnings. This
+causes them to be very industrious as well as executive. It is possible
+that the sunny aspect of Nature may partly be responsible for their
+joyous appearance, as it certainly causes the men to be very indolent
+and quite willing that their wives should carry on their business,
+provided they are left undisturbed to enjoy life in their own way.</p>
+
+<p>The women are very fond of dress, and, unlike the women of India, wear
+only real jewelry; travellers see a profusion of solitaire diamond
+rings, every one of which is said to be genuine.</p>
+
+<p>There is no caste in Burma and no division of class; in the olden time
+any one might become a prince or a prime minister if he had the ability
+to rise. There is little expression of art or literature, the life being
+very simple. The people are indeed children of Nature, and the only
+expression of taste is to be found in their pagodas and monasteries.
+Their silver work and wood carving are fine. The houses in the country
+are usually built of bamboo, raised from the ground on poles, four to
+six feet, as protection against floods, reptiles, and other<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span> mishaps.
+The floor usually consists of split bamboo, the thatched roof of
+elephant grass. The sides of the house are of bamboo, opening to the
+street on verandas. Some have second stories. Around these homes birds
+and animals and naked children are everywhere to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>Among the incidents of our stay at Mandalay I remember a native dance,
+called "Pwe," given one evening in front of the hotel. This was a little
+on the order of a vaudeville, consisting of a mixture of talk, song, and
+dance. The performers were arranged on a high platform. The women were
+dressed in the extreme of Burmese fashion, having long pink silk sarongs
+tightly drawn around them, jackets and long sashes, and with flowers in
+the hair. They appeared in the dancing and the singing, while the two
+men furnished the dialogue. The music was anything but melodious, and
+the talking we could not understand; but from the applause of the large
+number of spectators gathered around, we assumed, however, that it was
+funny. The movement of the dance was very slow and measured, as had been
+all the dancing we had witnessed in the Orient. The effect was rather
+spectacular, seen in a dim light, with trees for a background. Whenever
+a dance of this kind occurs, it soon gets noised about, and large
+gatherings of people arrive, and they group themselves around, sitting
+always<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span> on the ground and observing a profound silence except when they
+applaud.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image56.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="A national dance at Mandalay" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_national_dance_at_Mandalay" id="A_national_dance_at_Mandalay"></a>A national dance at Mandalay</span></div>
+
+<p>Near our hotel was an English Wesleyan mission, directed by the Rev. Mr.
+Bestol. A friend and I visited it, and found it very interesting and
+cheerful,&mdash;the home of the missionaries, and the assistant teachers who
+supervised the boys' and girls' school, and the dormitories. They seemed
+to be doing a very good work. On the occasion of our first call, they
+had all gone on a picnic, quite after our usual Sunday-school fashion.
+We also heard of other missions of merit.</p>
+
+<p>At 5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we left our hotel for the landing of the Irrawaddy Flotilla
+Company to pass the night on the steamer <i>Siam</i>. We were now on a model
+river vessel for three days. The scenery was varied and picturesque. At
+points from the water's edge there were terraced slopes of vegetation,
+trees of many kinds and hues, the dark green foliage alternating with
+the light green of the graceful bamboo, while creepers and flowers
+peeped out here and there, also clumps of toddy palms rearing their
+lofty heads, while the ever-prevalent pagoda glistened white or golden
+through the branches. As the steamer carried freight, occasional stops
+were made, and this gave variety to the scene.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Pakoku about 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> and anchored for the night. The shore
+was lined with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span> piles of bags, boxes, and other usual accessories.
+Natives were seen in all directions with a new array of articles, some
+bearing baskets suspended from bamboo poles across the shoulders, while
+bullock carts and other primitive vehicles, together with the variety of
+style and color of the attire worn by the natives, made a scene truly
+picturesque. We also stopped at Mirout. Here were mud volcanoes, which
+some of the party visited, being carried there in bullock carts, and
+found them rather interesting, the volcanoes emitting mud instead of
+lava.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at a place near old Pagan at four in the morning, and never
+can I forget the spectacle presented from my stateroom window. There was
+total darkness, save where long lines of natives with lanterns, coming
+from the woods in every direction, were seen carrying boxes, bales, and
+baskets of freight to the shore. Once at the landing, the rush and
+commotion and waving of lanterns were truly Burmese. The next point in
+our progress was old Pagan, where we saw many pagodas, but we were told
+that there were as many as a thousand in the days of her prosperity.</p>
+
+<p>On the river we constantly passed shipping of various kinds, sometimes
+huge rafts of teakwood propelled by natives, mostly devoid of attire;
+the peculiar Burman paddy boats of old Egyptian style are used for
+transporting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span> unhulled rice. A more peaceful trip cannot be imagined,
+and it has been compared to a passage up the Nile.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image57.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="On the Irrawaddy River, near Sagoing" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="On_the_Irrawaddy_River_near_Sagoing" id="On_the_Irrawaddy_River_near_Sagoing"></a>On the Irrawaddy River, near Sagoing</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Prome" id="Prome"></a>Prome</span>: We arrived at Prome the evening of January 12th, but owing to
+some hours' delay we were disappointed in not having the expected drive
+or visiting the celebrated pagoda. We took the night train for Rangoon
+and were so fortunate as to have the <i>de luxe</i> cars again.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Rangoon" id="Rangoon"></a>Rangoon</span>: We reached the city early the following morning. Rangoon is
+located on the ocean and is furthermore aided by the Irrawaddy River,
+which is navigable for over nine hundred miles. It has an unrivalled
+location for future growth and permanence. Rangoon's increase has been
+phenomenal for this latitude; in 1852 it was a small fishing village; in
+1904 the inhabitants numbered two hundred and fifty thousand, and there
+has since been a marked increase. The population is divided into
+Burmese, Hindus, Mohammedans, and Christians, with a sprinkling of other
+nationalities,&mdash;a variety which is distinctly recognized in the life of
+the city. It has a large export trade in rice, lumber, and oil, and a
+visit to one of the factories is almost always included by tourists.</p>
+
+<p>The shipping at Rangoon presents a picturesque variety, as ocean
+steamers, river steamers,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span> paddy boats, and quaint smaller vessels are
+always in evidence. The civil and municipal buildings do not, however,
+compare with those of such rival cities in India as Bombay, Calcutta,
+and Madras. The bazars in the European quarter are unusually fine, and
+it was a pleasure to visit them, silks, curios, and silver work being
+well displayed. In the native quarter those of the inhabitants to be
+seen on the street (previously described) had no distinctive character,
+but the native silk bazars were mostly in a large, low, poorly lighted
+building, divided into aisles. A visit to this neighborhood showed the
+happy-go-lucky features noticed in Mandalay.</p>
+
+<p>Indeed, life in Burma is like a comic opera. I realized this one morning
+when going about simply to be amused. The market and pavements were
+crowded with persons of different nationalities,&mdash;the pineapple man with
+his tray of fruit, the Burmese girl with her pretty stall of cigars, the
+Hindu seller of betel, the Chinaman under his swaying burden of cooked
+meats and strange luxuries, the vermicelli man, the Indian confectioner
+with his silver-coated pyramids of sago and cream. It is of all crowds
+the most cosmopolitan. Here is the long-coated Persian with his air of
+breeding and dignity, jostled by the naked coolie with rings in his
+nose. The lady beauty of Japan dashes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span> by in her jinrikisha drawn by a
+Chinese coolie, and the exclusive Brahman finds himself shoulder to
+shoulder with the laughing daughter of the soil who has never heard of
+caste.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image58.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="General view of Rangoon" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="General_view_of_Rangoon" id="General_view_of_Rangoon"></a>General view of Rangoon</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Shwe_Dagon" id="Shwe_Dagon"></a>Shwe Dagon</span>: The centre of attraction in Rangoon, however, is the Shwe
+Dagon Pagoda, which is famous wherever the Buddhist religion prevails;
+it is situated on an eminence, one hundred and sixty-six feet above the
+sea-level and towering up three hundred and sixty-eight feet. It is a
+very imposing structure, exceeding in height even St. Paul's Cathedral
+in London. This proportion gives it an air of dignity and repose, while
+its gilded surface from base to finial causes it to be truly
+magnificent.</p>
+
+<p>The structure has no interior, being built solidly of brick over a relic
+chamber; hence its platform with a circumference of about fourteen
+hundred feet is the place for worship and also for many small pagodas.
+The great pagoda is of conical shape and is divided into twelve parts,
+and of these the ti, or umbrella, valued at &pound;60,000, is the most costly
+and remarkable, and was the gift of King Mindon, the next to the last
+king of Burma. While from its great height it is scarcely visible, it is
+really thirteen and one-half feet high and is hung with about fifteen
+hundred bells, many of them gold. When heard at night, the effect is
+magical.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span></p><p>The southern entrance has a pair of gryphons, and beyond them is the
+entrance arch, which is inferior to the rest of the edifice. Here may be
+seen venders of many kinds, selling gold leaf (which is used by pilgrims
+on the surface of the pagoda), books, papers, toys, and offerings to
+place on the altar; and the scene around the stalls is instinct with
+life and gayety. Brightly dressed women and children, coquettish girls,
+nuns, and beggars all assemble here.</p>
+
+<p>There are four flights of stairs, east, west, north, and south, leading
+up to the platform; the southern one being mostly used, as it looks down
+upon the thoroughfare. The western stairs have been closed to
+worshippers, as the place is now a British fortress.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to describe the many objects of interest on this
+immense platform. Four chapels at the foot of the pagoda are guarded by
+colossal figures of the sitting Buddha, and in the farthest recess, in a
+niche, is a small Buddha, the gilding of which is discolored by the
+smoke from many thousands of tapers and candles.</p>
+
+<p>On each side of the pagoda are chapels with tapering roofs and upturned
+eaves, and within them are seated images of the Buddha covered with
+gold. These attract large numbers of worshippers, and with the myriad
+waxen tapers produce an impressive effect.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image59.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Shwe_Dagon_Pagoda_at_Rangoon" id="Shwe_Dagon_Pagoda_at_Rangoon"></a>Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image60.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Entrance gateway, Shwe Dagon Pagoda" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Entrance_gateway_Shwe_Dagon_Pagoda" id="Entrance_gateway_Shwe_Dagon_Pagoda"></a>Entrance gateway, Shwe Dagon Pagoda</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image61.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Chapels on platform around Shwe Dagon, Rangoon" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Chapels_on_platform_around_Shwe_Dagon_Rangoon" id="Chapels_on_platform_around_Shwe_Dagon_Rangoon"></a>Chapels on platform around Shwe Dagon, Rangoon</span></div>
+
+<p>The chapels are decorated with screens of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span>fine wood carving. The
+coloring is also very striking, the outside being of vermilion and gold,
+the inside of green, gold, and purple.</p>
+
+<p>Hundreds of Buddhas of various sizes are seen in all directions,
+sitting, standing, and reclining; and on the outer edge of the platform
+are small pagodas, each with its ti, or umbrella, and also holding its
+usual offerings of fruit, flowers, or small gifts. Seen at twilight and
+as the candles are being lighted, it is almost bewildering, even
+uncanny, as I found one evening when there alone with my guide, the
+renowned Abraham, who, even though a rigid Mohammedan, assumed a devout
+attitude.</p>
+
+<p>Another prominent pagoda is the gilded Sule. This is situated quite in
+the heart of things, near the Strand, and is graceful in proportions.
+The platform also contains many interesting shrines. A fine distant view
+of the Sule is obtained from Hytche Square.</p>
+
+<p>There are many monasteries (virtually schools for boys), the finest
+being at a suburb called Kemmendine, which is also a centre for the
+manufacture of kalagas, or blankets, usually red with figures in
+appliqu&eacute;. We enjoyed several pleasant drives while in Rangoon, the
+favorite one being to Royal Lake and through Dalhousie Park; if taken in
+the late afternoon, one will see a gayly dressed, fashionable throng,
+either driving or walking. I had met Mr. and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span> Mrs. W.T. Graham of the
+Burma Civil Service on the steamer from Port Sa&iuml;d to Bombay, and I was
+indebted to them for two drives,&mdash;one to their country home, which was
+an attractive two-storied bungalow with galleries and low windows above
+and below, quite unlike the thatched houses seen in Upper Burma. There
+were contrasts in the general dress and appearance of the natives; pink
+was, however, still the prevailing color in the sarongs, sashes, and
+jackets of the women, and the long hair of the men was the custom. The
+intermarriage between Burmese women and Chinamen was said to be very
+frequent, some of the women preferring the hard-working executive
+Chinamen to the indolent Burmese. And, according to the opinion of a
+gentleman I met later, who had made a study of the subject, the
+intermarriage of the ever-prevalent Chinamen with races of the Orient,
+where caste does not prevent, is in time going to work a great racial
+revolution.</p>
+
+<p>One morning we rose at 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> for an early excursion to see elephants
+haul teak from the river-bank to higher ground, where the logs would dry
+before transference to the sawmills. We went at this time so as to avoid
+the heat, and also because the elephants rest after 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> The
+illustration will show the process, but it was an amusing sight to see
+five ponderous animals moving slowly along, propelling the logs<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span> with
+their trunks, and ever and anon trumpeting; not being versed in elephant
+expression, I was left in doubt as to whether the sound meant joy or
+sorrow. We visited another similar scene near a large sawmill which we
+explored under the leadership of the manager.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image62.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Elephants carrying logs at Rangoon" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Elephants_carrying_logs_at_Rangoon" id="Elephants_carrying_logs_at_Rangoon"></a>Elephants carrying logs at Rangoon</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image63.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The Gilded Sule as seen from Hytche Square" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Gilded_Sule_as_seen_from_Hytche_Square" id="The_Gilded_Sule_as_seen_from_Hytche_Square"></a>The Gilded Sule as seen from Hytche Square</span></div>
+
+<p>A trip to a rice-mill had been spoken of, but, not having breakfasted,
+we preferred to return to the hotel. Tea and toast were served at
+rising, if one desired it, during our entire "Tour." Another novel
+excursion was a long drive to some half-ruined Buddhist temples, a
+monastery, and buildings assigned to the peculiar rites which precede
+the cremation of a Buddhist priest; two bodies were seen in
+curious-looking receptacles, awaiting the culmination of events.</p>
+
+<p>We were disappointed in not seeing a "ceremony," but were told to come
+in the evening and witness a temple dance, and, I believe, also a
+semi-dramatic ceremony. Some of the party did so, but I remained in the
+hotel to write letters, as we were to leave the following morning.</p>
+
+<p>I have alluded to Abraham, our guide in Burma, as a devout Mohammedan,
+but he had numerous characteristics which rather caused distrust, one of
+them being his extreme deference to the ladies of the party, when
+according to the tenets of his religion we were all "fiends incarnate";
+the other was his apparent abject acceptance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span> of all Buddhist
+ceremonies, which we knew at heart he detested. However, "guides" became
+a prolific study, as time went on.</p>
+
+<p>The weather had been hot in Rangoon; so, in spite of our pleasant Burman
+experiences and the joyousness of things in general, we hailed the
+steamer voyage as affording some measure of relief. We sailed at 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>
+on January 17th, on the steamer <i>Palmicotta</i>, for a voyage of four days
+to Madras. As usual, nothing occurred to mar the even tenor of our way;
+the ship was comfortable, the passengers affable, and the sea on good
+behavior.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Madras" id="Madras"></a>Madras</span>, <i>January 21st</i>: We arrived at Madras early on the morning of
+January 21st. The view of the city from the pier was disappointing, but
+the drive of about two miles to the Hotel Connemara showed much natural
+beauty, the trees in particular being very fine. Hot weather met us at
+Madras, but as it is a city of magnificent distances, driving was a
+necessity, and hence less exertion was required. In the park and at the
+Botanical Gardens we saw more natural beauty and took the long drive to
+the sea front, where the fashionable people of the city of Marina go in
+large numbers, and which leads past fine municipal buildings, the
+college, and other places of importance. St. George's Church is
+pleasing, with its quota of memorial<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span> statues, and the close is very
+attractive, reminding one of England. The drive through the native
+quarter, called Black Town, presented unusual features. The fort and
+parks were visited, as were also some rather attractive bazars. The
+museum is interesting from an historical standpoint and has many statues
+and bas-reliefs, some relating to Prince Gautama and some to Hindu gods;
+there are also relics of saints. It is particularly rich in specimens of
+armor and jewelled swords.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image64.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="General view of Madras" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="General_view_of_Madras" id="General_view_of_Madras"></a>General view of Madras</span></div>
+
+<p>Madras seems quite as unlike the cities of Northern India as does
+Rangoon, and comparatively few of the thousands of tourists who frequent
+Northern India ever visit Southern India, a great distinction between
+the two being made. It is, however, conveniently near the great Seven
+Pagodas, which we did not visit, and is the gateway to the famous
+Dravidian temples which presented much interest.</p>
+
+<p>We left early in the afternoon in order to visit Tanjore, Trichinopoly,
+and Madura, and for two days sleeping-cars were to be our home. There
+are no hotels in these cities, the wonderful temples serving as a
+substitute, while the English railway restaurant afforded us a certain
+amount of sustenance. The ride to Tanjore was through a lovely country
+with beautiful palms, groves of vari-hued trees, and occasionally a
+tangle of vines.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span></p><p><span class="smcap"><a name="Tanjore" id="Tanjore"></a>Tanjore</span>: On our arrival at Tanjore in the afternoon we went directly to
+the forts which enclose the temple, palace, and gopuras. The temple is
+in the little fort. The gopuras claim first attention. They are really
+gateways, a feature peculiar to Southern India. They were intended as a
+fortification to protect the temples from foreign invaders, and are
+imposing in size and structure&mdash;towering up (some nine stories high)
+course after course, and literally covered with carvings of animals and
+gods, all colored in red and gold. We passed through a gopura ninety
+feet high, next through a passage one hundred and seventy feet long,
+then through a small gopura, when we arrived at the large outer
+enclosure of the temple, four hundred and fifty by eight hundred feet.
+This is further surrounded by cloisters and open to outsiders, who are
+not, however, permitted to enter the great temple of the adjacent halls.
+But even at a distance we could admire their barbaric splendor.</p>
+
+<p>We were also entertained by the gorgeous temple peacock (considered
+sacred), of enormous size, which, with outstretched tail, posed for us
+with as much evident vanity as a coquettish girl. There are smaller
+shrines and temples distributed about the great enclosure, and in one
+temple is an immense bronze bull. The tower of the great temple is only
+thirty-eight feet lower than the Kutub Minar described in "Old Delhi."
+In<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span> the northwest corner of the enclosure is an exquisite small temple
+called Siva Manya and dedicated to the son of Siva. It has a tower fifty
+feet high and a base forty feet square, adorned with pillars, and these
+are continued along another cloister, fifty feet long. Mr. Ferguson
+writes: "It is as exquisite a piece of decorative architecture as is to
+be found in Southern India." The great fort seems like a continuation of
+the small one, and in it are situated the palace and Schwartz Church.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image65.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Great_Subrahmanya_Temple_at_Tanjore" id="The_Great_Subrahmanya_Temple_at_Tanjore"></a>The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore</span></div>
+
+<p>The palace of the Princess of Tanjore is an immense structure and was
+built about 1550 <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> It has no merit architecturally, but possesses
+certain features of interest; one of these is a large Durbar room which
+contains bas-reliefs on the wall, and a platform of black granite, on
+which stands a white marble statue by Flaxman of Raja Shah Foji, who was
+a pupil of Flaxman and who was next to the last Raja. There are also to
+be found here portraits of the various members of the royal family and a
+bust of Lord Nelson. In addition, we came across an unusual library for
+India, dating from the end of the sixteenth century, and containing
+eighteen thousand Sanskrit manuscripts, one half of them written on palm
+leaves. Our English guide showed us a portion of the palace occupied by
+two ladies, relatives of the last Raja, this being a courtesy extended
+to them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span> by the English Government and which ceases with their death.
+The Schwartz Church dates from 1770 <span class="smcap">a.d.</span>, and the aged missionary is
+immortalized in a monument designed by Flaxman, which contains eight
+figures beside the reclining one.</p>
+
+<p>The Tanjore and Trichinopoly districts were the scene of the earliest
+work of the Protestant missionaries in India, and the Roman Catholic
+missionaries antedated them by half a century. Churches of these faiths
+are scattered through this and the adjoining districts. We had a late
+luncheon in the restaurant of the railway station and then repaired to
+the train. I have great dislike for a sleeping-car, so it can be
+imagined that the visit to the Dravidian temples was made under
+difficulties. We proceeded to Trichinopoly, arriving there early and
+having a long day before us.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Trichinopoly" id="Trichinopoly"></a>Trichinopoly</span>: Trichinopoly, like Tanjore, has a history full of
+vicissitudes, in which the French and that picturesque figure, Lord
+Clive, appear. The temple of Sri Ranngam is situated a mile from the
+bridge and three miles from the fort, the entrance being through a
+gopura forty-eight feet high; the sides of this passage, one hundred
+feet long and forty-three feet high, are richly ornamented. The
+monoliths which serve as pillars are forty feet high, and every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span> detail
+is on a gigantic scale; this is the largest Hindu temple in India. The
+outer enclosure alone is twenty-four hundred and seventy-five by
+twenty-eight hundred and eighty feet, and has its elephant, but it wears
+a commercial aspect (being filled with bazars) which detracts from the
+dignity of the scene. As we penetrated to the interior temple, the
+buildings diminished in size and importance; the gopuras, however, are
+imposing (there are nine in all), with their profuse decoration, all
+being painted and all varying in size.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image66.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Fort Rock, Trichinopoly" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Fort_Rock_Trichinopoly" id="Fort_Rock_Trichinopoly"></a>Fort Rock, Trichinopoly</span></div>
+
+<p>In the court around the central enclosure is a hall of about one
+thousand pillars; these are of granite, eighteen feet in height. On one
+side the pillars represent men astride rearing horses, the horses' feet
+being supported by the shields of men on foot beside them. This temple
+was built about 700 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> The tanks are of interest in Trichinopoly, but
+less so than in Madura.</p>
+
+<p>The great rock is the most noticeable feature, tunnelled out of which is
+a circular staircase with a gateway leading to interior temples, and on
+the sides of this passage are pillars with peculiar capitals which seem
+to indicate Jain origin. The way upward was dimly lighted, and all
+manner of accidents seemed possible. In fact, there was a very serious
+accident in 1849, when five hundred persons were killed. At one landing
+there was a school of small boys; at another,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span> there were groups of
+worshippers making their descent; turning to the left, we saw a small
+temple of Siva. In the dim light everything seemed weird and unreal. The
+view from the top of the rock was far-reaching, gopuras and temples
+gleaming through the green foliage. There were sacred elephants here, as
+at Tanjore, standing in the usual receptive attitude; for them small
+coins were more acceptable than food, showing how adroitly they had been
+trained.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Madura" id="Madura"></a>Madura</span>: Another very early arrival at Madura, and the programme of the
+day before was repeated. Although Madura is a large place, the temples,
+gopuras, and palaces are the chief attraction. The famous Palace of
+Tirumala Nayak is splendid in its appointments, having large, airy halls
+and audience rooms (similar to the Diwan-i-Khas of Delhi and Agra) with
+richly decorated ceilings, and the bedchamber is resplendent with
+carving and gilding. There is a fine view from the roof of the great
+temple. The nine gopuras are tall, massive, and barbaric in their
+decorations, which consist of horses, lions, elephants, gods and
+goddesses. The great shrines of Siva and his consort are almost
+interminable in their extent, and there is a long vestibule or hall
+divided into aisles by carved columns. This formed a reception room
+for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> the King in early times, a great contrast to the present scene of
+tumultuous venders with almost every variety of goods, who are more
+noisy than their brothers of North India.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image67.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The Golden Lily Tank, Madura" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Golden_Lily_Tank_Madura" id="The_Golden_Lily_Tank_Madura"></a>The Golden Lily Tank, Madura</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;">
+<img src="images/image68.jpg" width="339" height="500" alt="Entrance to the Madura Temple" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Entrance_to_the_Madura_Temple" id="Entrance_to_the_Madura_Temple"></a>Entrance to the Madura Temple</span></div>
+
+<p>Within the temple there are many shrines and many Tamil worshippers;
+high-caste Brahmans are also there to minister to the supposed wants of
+the higher gods. Galleries led us out to still other shrines, where are
+installed additional images of gods, who on f&ecirc;te days are carried about
+in gold and silver chariots of untold value. All the most beautiful
+portions of the temple as it now stands were built by Tirumala Nayak,
+the great Madura ruler of modern times, who ascended the throne in 1623
+and reigned thirty-six years.</p>
+
+<p>One of the quadrangles opens out on a tank. An arcade runs around the
+tank, and the walls are painted with representations of the most famous
+pagodas in India. On the north side is the belfry&mdash;strange to relate, an
+American bell hangs therein. Here too is the Hall of a Thousand Pillars,
+and this is even more remarkable than the same-named hall at
+Trichinopoly, on account of the marvellous beauty of the construction.
+Near the hall is the great gopura, and opposite this is the new gallery,
+of a magnificent plan but unfinished, known as Tirumala's Choultrie.
+There is so much of interest and detail connected with all of these
+Dravidian temples<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span> that one should plan to have more time to devote to
+them. The cursory examination we were afforded measures the disadvantage
+of an itinerary. We left after luncheon for Tuticorin, and arrived there
+at 5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Tuticorin" id="Tuticorin"></a>Tuticorin</span>: Tuticorin, on the Gulf of Manaar, is the port of departure
+for Colombo, Ceylon. We had only a hurried glimpse of the city, showing
+white buildings, white sand, and the blackest natives we had yet seen.
+We inferred they were Tamils. A pleasant night on the steamer followed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Colombo" id="Colombo"></a>Colombo</span>, <i>January 25th</i>: The morning of January 25th saw our approach to
+the fine harbor of Colombo, and we felt that at last our dream of
+viewing the beautiful island of Ceylon was to be realized. Our first
+impression was received at the landing jetty, where it seemed as if
+every nationality had its representative, so varied was the appearance
+of the natives,&mdash;the Laskas from the Malay Peninsula, the Hindus from
+India, as well as Tamil coolies, Arabs from Aden, Buddhist priests, and
+Mohammedans. We found excitement on our arrival at the hotel, owing to
+the expected appearance of the ex-Empress Eug&eacute;nie and her suite, as well
+as Sir Thomas Lipton and numerous other notable guests.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image69.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Street scene in Colombo" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Street_scene_in_Colombo" id="Street_scene_in_Colombo"></a>Street scene in Colombo</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span></p><p>The ride to the hotel, located on the sea, had shown us unusual
+luxuriance of vegetation and wonderful trees both in fruit and in
+blossom. This fact was emphasized by a long afternoon drive, beginning
+in the native quarter with its attendant bazars and ending with a long
+country tour for at least an hour through a forest of palms of many
+varieties, the tall talipot towering high&mdash;higher even than the
+fruit-laden cocoanut palm,&mdash;while bread-fruit trees, jack-fruit trees,
+and bananas made a pleasing variety. A little diversion occurred when a
+boy climbed a tall cocoanut palm, procuring a fine specimen, and opened
+it for us to try. We passed the Victoria Bridge, which took the place of
+the bridge of boats, returning to our hotel by a way that revealed still
+more tropical wonders. The fine Galle Face Hotel, with its sense of
+spaciousness and restful ease, the illuminated grounds, the band, and
+the dash of the waves caused that first Saturday evening to seem almost
+perfection; one and all felt willing to linger on indefinitely, but,
+alas, the iron-clad itinerary must be met, and a week in the mountains
+was to follow!</p>
+
+<p>Colombo is a fine place in which to study types, and nothing is more
+peculiar than the Cingalese man, with his long hair braided in a knot at
+his neck, with the broad shell comb resting on his crown; on State
+occasions the chief waiters at the hotel appear in an exceedingly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span> high
+head piece perched above their customary shell ornament, which they told
+us was the style of a hundred years ago.</p>
+
+<p>The jinrikisha man here is the first person to gain your attention; so
+winning are his ways and so rapid his pace that he is justly popular for
+a short spin to the very interesting shopping district, where almost
+everything may be found, the jewels holding the interest of the stranger
+above all else. But, alas, the pearl, Ceylon's home product, is to be
+had only at fabulous prices and not then in its perfection. We had heard
+of the lure of the pearl in the Gulf of Manaar (separating Ceylon from
+India), and of all the fairy-tale adventures involved in the search for
+it, and so we were disappointed in our failure to see perfect specimens.</p>
+
+<p>The heat in Colombo was not oppressive, but, as in other places, there
+are flying punkahs and electric appliances for cooling the air; then
+there are fans in one's room to use at will, for these Easterners like
+comfort and secure it at whatever cost, and the denizens of the West
+soon fall into their ways, even adopting the English custom of four
+o'clock tea. The spacious entrance hall at the Galle Face Hotel
+presented an animated appearance, with beautifully gowned ladies, and
+their attendants, seated around little tables sipping tea and consuming
+fruit-cake and sandwiches.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span></p><p><span class="smcap"><a name="Nuwara_Eliya" id="Nuwara_Eliya"></a>Nuwara Eliya</span>: On Tuesday morning, January 28th, we left Colombo for the
+north. The mountain resort of Nuwara Eliya is a great boon even to the
+inhabitants of sea-swept Colombo; and it is also appreciated to its full
+by the tourist who has been surfeited with the close atmosphere of
+cities or grown tired of sea voyages. We had been told that the scenery
+combined the wildness of Switzerland with the peculiar charm of the
+Welsh mountains; hence we felt that a new experience awaited us. The
+railway ride there confirmed our first impression of Ceylon's fine
+growth of trees and shrubs, the road leading first through lowlands with
+endless cocoanut and other palms; while of all the blossom-laden trees
+the gold mohr, with its wealth of scarlet blossoms, surpasses every
+other. Later, rice-fields and tea plantations alternated, the latter
+even covering the sides of mountains. The scenery grew bolder as we went
+along, and at the Junction we took the narrow gauge for our mountain
+climb. This ascent was another triumph of engineering skill, winding
+around long and bold curves.</p>
+
+<p>Nuwara Eliya is located sixty-two hundred feet above the sea, but,
+surrounded by mountains, the country has the appearance of being a
+valley. The Grand Hotel, in bungalow style, is prettily located in well
+laid-out grounds, with a fine view. In the morning we drove to Hakgalla<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span>
+Botanical Garden, and on our way there we saw a striking feature in
+great masses of rhododendrons. The road to the gardens through an avenue
+of trees was inviting, and as we turned to the right we had a fine view
+of the west peak of the Hakgalla rock; passing on up the drive, we saw a
+large lake, the banks of which were lined with ornamental trees. There
+is here a pleasing vista of flowering plants, tall palms, and varied
+trees; we examined an immense tea plant twelve feet in diameter, a fine
+clump of tree ferns, and a peculiar silver fern from New Zealand,&mdash;also
+a wax palm from New Granada, the leaves of which are covered with a wax
+substance from which good candles can be made; and a fernery with
+twenty-six thousand plants. There is also a flower garden, a house for
+the propagation of plants, and a laboratory for scientific research,
+besides many other interesting features in this truly complete garden.</p>
+
+<p>We visited a tea factory, and an attendant showed us the entire process
+of preparation, even to the wrapping of the tea in packages. During the
+afternoon we drove to Ramboda Pass, six miles distant. From the top of
+the pass, six thousand feet high, there was a panoramic view of mountain
+scenery with the Katinale valley below and the gray-crested Peacock
+Mountain as a centrepiece. Nuwara Eliya is a famed summer resort, with
+beautiful walks,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span> tennis, cricket, and social clubs; the English Church
+is finely located, with the usual well-kept close.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image70.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="General view of Nuwara Eliya" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="General_view_of_Nuwara_Eliya" id="General_view_of_Nuwara_Eliya"></a>General view of Nuwara Eliya</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Kandy" id="Kandy"></a>Kandy</span>, <i>January 30th</i>: We left Nuwara Eliya, on the morning of January
+30th, for Kandy, arriving there at 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> The train passed through a
+country similar to that before described, only there was a greater
+descent, Kandy having less altitude than Nuwara Eliya. We had
+anticipated much of Kandy, Ceylon's ancient capital and the scene of
+action in the days of the old Kandyan kings. It is said that when Adam
+and Eve were banished from Paradise they repaired to Ceylon and located
+at Kandy, it being the nearest approach to Paradise. A few days' stay
+there sufficed to show us that the legend was partly justified.</p>
+
+<p>The city is situated in a valley with stretches of mountains on either
+side, a lake nestling in the centre of the place and in the midst of a
+perfect wealth of trees. Nature seemed to challenge our admiration.</p>
+
+<p>The afternoon drive to Peradeniya convinced us that the claim of one of
+the greatest botanical gardens in the world was well founded, for here
+we saw revelations in plants, shrubs, and trees, the new varieties of
+palms seeming wonderful. A talipot palm was in blossom, towering high to
+heaven, but we knew that its course was nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span> ended, for when it
+attains about half a century of vitality it droops and dies; this seems
+a strange anomaly of Nature. Great groups of rubber trees (largely
+exported from Ceylon) and immense groups of tall bamboo trees were also
+in plenty.</p>
+
+<p>Kandy, in the Eastern world, derives its greatest renown from being the
+home of Buddha's tooth, and the Temple of the Tooth attracts great
+crowds of pilgrims of the Buddhist faith from many lands. It is said to
+have been brought here in the sixteenth century, and the small temple in
+which it was then placed has been enlarged and made a shrine where
+costly gifts are laid by devotees from China, Japan, the Malay
+Peninsula, Siam, and other remote points. Buddhism claims the larger
+portion of Ceylon's subjects, having in comparison with Hinduism a small
+following in India, where it originated. The tooth is said to be the
+left eye-tooth of Prince Siddhartha, taken from his ashes twenty-five
+centuries ago, but it is believed that the original tooth was burned by
+the Catholic Archbishop of Goa, Portugal, in 1650, and a spurious one
+substituted. However, it is worshipped as the real one, and the morning
+following our arrival, we attended the 9.30 service at the temple, where
+a crowd was in attendance, seemingly enjoying the hideous music of the
+tom-toms and instruments of a similar Oriental<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span> character. The tooth is
+not shown except on rare occasions, but through a glass door we saw its
+jewelled casket and the table on which it rests.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image71.jpg" width="500" height="340" alt="General view of Kandy" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="General_view_of_Kandy" id="General_view_of_Kandy"></a>General view of Kandy</span></div>
+
+<p>There were many offerings before this relic and before other images of
+Buddha which are to be found presiding over all temples. Much
+superstition was evident, but the sacrifices and practices that are to
+be seen in the Hindu temples are here wanting. It is a sad reflection,
+however, that Buddha's noble teachings could not have borne better
+fruit.</p>
+
+<p>The library of the temple held many richly bound Buddhist books, written
+on leaves made from the talipot palm. The leaves bound together are long
+and narrow, and are held in place between heavy covers. The priests, as
+in Burma, wear a yellow silk robe draped like a Roman toga. They are
+seen everywhere, going about in the early morning with a begging bowl;
+they are ever courteous and apparently well bred. Cremation is
+practised, as with the Hindus, but the rites preceding it are far more
+imposing and cover days of peculiar ceremonies, while the Hindus
+practise almost immediate cremation. A visit to the Government art
+school and museum followed, and then a beautiful mountain drive where
+hill and valley alternated; the views were past description.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we were permitted the courtesy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span> of a visit to the
+Governor's residence, the family being absent. The grounds were large
+and well laid out; the rooms spacious and furnished with a view to
+comfort and to meet the requirements of the climate. We were interested
+in learning that the ex-Empress Eug&eacute;nie and her suite were about to
+arrive to take up their residence for a time. A so-termed Lady Blake's
+drive followed. This was also largely a mountain ride with more fine
+views; but we surpassed ourselves on the following day in the tour we
+took, and our adjectives were soon exhausted; so it is natural that we
+should vote Ceylon the finest land we had thus far visited.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday was passed quietly; we attended a 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> service in the English
+Church, and saw a number of natives in attendance, ladies appearing in
+low dresses and with uncovered heads. They were richly clad; so it was
+evidently the custom, even though to us it seemed peculiar.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image72.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Entrance_to_the_Botanical_Gardens_Kandy" id="Entrance_to_the_Botanical_Gardens_Kandy"></a>Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image73.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Temple_of_the_Sacred_Tooth_in_Kandy" id="Temple_of_the_Sacred_Tooth_in_Kandy"></a>Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Anuradhapura" id="Anuradhapura"></a>Anuradhapura</span>: Monday, February 3d, we left Kandy to visit
+Anuradhapura.</p><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Before proceeding, it seems desirable to introduce an historical
+digression. The history of Ceylon is shrouded in mystery, but, from
+chronicles compiled by the early monks, a real foundation or beginning
+has been determined upon, proving that the Cingalese under Wigeyo
+invaded Ceylon in 543 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> and conquered the aborigines of the soil. It
+is deemed probable that they came from neighboring continents, and that
+their descendants possessed character and determination; that they were
+builders is shown by the erection of splendid edifices at an early date,
+and after the arrival of the royal Buddhist missionary, Mahindo (son of
+an Indian king), 306 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, fine dagobas and monasteries were added, each
+successive ruler seeming ambitious to excel his predecessor.</p>
+
+<p>Anuradhapura was the first capital, but owing to many vicissitudes and
+several invasions of the Malabars of Southern India, the capital was
+moved many times, Kandy being the sixth; it preceded Cotta, near
+Colombo, the latter being the present capital. In 1532, on the landing
+of the Portuguese at Colombo, the last blow was struck, and soon the
+great cities of the Empire were deserted and left in the hands of
+foreigners. The best dagobas were crumbling, immense tanks broken, and
+general devastation succeeded where splendor had long reigned. The
+annals of these centuries, the recital of the achievements and the
+failures of the various rulers, read like a romance, and it seems sad
+that a people thus endowed could not have retained their character and
+independence, although under English rule the island seems prosperous.</p>
+
+<p>The first mention of Kandy is at the beginning of the fourteenth
+century, when a temple was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span> built to receive the sacred tooth and other
+ruins, the possession of which made it an important centre of the
+Buddhist religion and eventually a royal residence; it became the
+capital of the island in 1592. From that time until the final
+establishment of the English rule in 1803, it was repeatedly captured
+and burned by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the English; it
+consequently presents no architectural monuments nor any pretension to
+antiquity.</p>
+
+<p>But it has a better claim to the remembrance of posterity in the fact
+that for three hundred years it was the centre of the national movement
+to resist the aggressions of the foreigner. After the British occupation
+the King was allowed some authority, but owing to certain indignities
+offered to English subjects, war was declared in 1815, the King taken
+prisoner and transported to India, where he died in 1832. Ceylon has
+since been an English colony. The Kandyans are brave and fearless in
+appearance; they never wear the Cingalese comb, as this is a badge of
+the low country. The women dress differently from those in India.</p>
+
+<p>The city presents a wide field of interest for the arch&aelig;ologist, and
+incidentally for the tourist. We were to have a new experience here, as
+we were to be housed in a "rest house," the term applied to a Government
+semi-hotel, usually of a simple description, but serving as a great
+convenience<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span> to Government officials in the many places throughout the
+English islands where there are no hotels. We found the one at
+Anuradhapura prettily located in a setting of green, with a garden in
+front. The present little town has a population of about three thousand,
+and is the capital of the north central province of Ceylon.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image74.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Ruins of Anuradhapura" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Ruins_of_Anuradhapura" id="Ruins_of_Anuradhapura"></a>Ruins of Anuradhapura</span></div>
+
+<p>The tour of the ruins is divided into a consideration of the outer and
+inner circles, each comprising a drive of several miles. On the
+afternoon of our arrival we took the outer circle and went past towering
+ruined temples called dagobas, remains of palaces once spacious and
+imposing, long rows of stately columns covering a wide space, ruined
+towers, statues, some headless and some showing traces of their former
+skill, immense tanks, and remains of buildings of many descriptions
+which are awaiting the patient investigation of the arch&aelig;ologist. Much
+in this line has already been done, and active work is now being carried
+forward on some of the dagobas, the contribution of Buddhistic pilgrims
+who come from far and near largely aiding the cause. There is also a
+local arch&aelig;ological society which seeks to systematize the effort.</p>
+
+<p>The ride to the inner circle and the more distant points consumed
+another four hours, and an eight-mile excursion will later be alluded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span>
+to. The special objects of interest may be mentioned, with an indication
+of what the ruins represent, as they may have general value. The sacred
+road is a feature of the place, for it is the pathway the pilgrims have
+trod for over two thousand years. The Thuparama is the oldest and most
+venerated of all the dagobas. The largest one is the Jaytawanarama,
+built about the close of the third century <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> by King Mahicena. The
+height, including the pedestal, is two hundred and forty-nine feet, and
+its diameter three hundred and sixty feet; moreover, the contents of the
+dome of brickwork and the platform on which it stands are said to
+contain twenty million cubic feet. It is also stated that, with the
+facilities which modern inventions supply for economizing labor, the
+building of such a structure at present would take five hundred
+bricklayers from six to seven years, and would involve an expenditure of
+at least $5,000,000. Only the glory of the old outline is now left, and
+its four chapels have crumbled almost past recognition.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image75.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Near_the_Sacred_Road_Thuparama_Dagoba" id="Near_the_Sacred_Road_Thuparama_Dagoba"></a>Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba</span></div>
+
+<p>Of interest is the Isurumuniya Temple, constructed by King
+Dewenipiatissa, 300 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> The temple is carved out, and circles around a
+formation of natural rock; its shrine is approached by two terraces, the
+steps being in a state of fine preservation. The outer wall of the upper
+terrace is ornamented with a remarkable <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span>series of seventeen mural
+frescos in low relief, the subjects being grotesque, and there is a
+large tablet on the south wall consisting of a group of three women, a
+man, and attendants. Close to the entrance of the shrine is a large
+sitting figure holding a horse, and carved out of the face of the rock
+are the heads of four elephants in low relief. The stone doorway is a
+fine specimen of carving, and the pillars which support the porch in
+front of it are beautifully proportioned. The temple has been restored.</p>
+
+<p>A priest's dwelling-house is near, and the priest was officiating at the
+shrine at the time of my visit. I was alone; he signified that I was to
+keep silent, and then offered up a prayer to Buddha in my behalf, for
+which I was doubtless expected to deposit a coin in a contribution box.
+As I did not disappoint the expectant priest, he courteously presented
+me with his card, and this is the name inscribed thereon:
+"Sangharakkhita Mahathera, the High Priest of the Isurumuni Vihara."
+Another interesting dagoba with a most unpronounceable name is now being
+restored through the pious contributions of pilgrims. The present height
+is one hundred and fifty feet, with a diameter of three hundred and
+seventy-nine feet. It was originally surrounded by two large paved
+platforms, the inner one being raised above the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span> other. Around the outer
+wall there was originally a complete circle of elephants, each elephant
+being furnished with tusks of real ivory. The Moonstone Steps are finely
+preserved. There is still a striking frieze of lions running along the
+upper border of the platform, and around the base of the dagoba are five
+large upright statues and a small sitting one, the tallest said to be
+that of King Dutugemuna.</p>
+
+<p>There are wonderful tales told of miraculous work done through the
+celebrated bo-tree, a branch of the oldest historical tree in the world.
+It was planted two hundred and forty-five years before Christ, and its
+story has been handed down in a continuous series of authentic
+chronicles. This is believed by Buddhists to be a branch of the sacred
+bo-tree in Buddh Gaya, India, under which Prince Siddhartha sat on the
+day he attained Buddha-hood, this branch having been sent from India; it
+has been sacredly treated, enriched with stone carvings and braces, and
+honored with magnificent ceremonies by repeated dynasties; it has also
+been spared during the successive invasions of the land. The Chinese
+traveller and author, Fahiam, visited it in the fifth century, and has
+left an authentic record of it as well as of some buildings in this
+ruined city. There are fine columns and many remains of the King's
+palace still standing; in addition to which,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span> the monasteries and tanks
+all show artistic skill.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image76.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="The Moonstone Steps" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Moonstone_Steps" id="The_Moonstone_Steps"></a>The Moonstone Steps</span></div>
+
+<p>Perhaps a clearer idea of the former splendor may be had by a brief
+recital of what chroniclers and arch&aelig;ologists prove to have been the
+plan of the Buddhist Brazen Temple, now a collection of sixteen hundred
+monolithic granite pillars, standing twelve feet from the ground and
+arranged in lines of forty each way; they cover a space measuring two
+hundred and thirty-one feet north to south and two hundred and
+thirty-two feet east to west. This formed the foundation of the great
+Brazen Temple, erected by King Dutugemuna in the second century <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>
+These columns supported the building, nine stories in height, and
+containing one thousand dormitories for priests. The roof was of sheet
+copper, and the walls were embellished with beads which shone
+resplendent like gems. The great hall was supported on golden pillars
+resting on lions, and in the centre was an ivory throne with a golden
+sun and silver moon on either side, while above it glittered Imperial
+Chinta, the white canopy of dominion. It was destroyed, then rebuilt,
+and the second restoration occurred in the twelfth century, thus showing
+the vicissitudes which this and other ruins have passed through.</p>
+
+<p>The excursion to Mihintale, eight miles distant, was made alone with a
+guide, at six in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span> morning, the other members of the party preferring
+another excursion. The drive was mostly through what was termed a
+jungle, meaning a roadway cut through the forest and left in its natural
+state; hence there was a tangle of vines and underbrush, and the effect
+was very fine with the great variety which the tropical vegetation
+affords. Reaching our destination, we left the carriage for a walk of
+three quarters of a mile through a forest to the base of a mountain from
+which ascends eighteen hundred and sixty-four wide marble steps, divided
+into four flights, with a landing for each, paths leading to the left or
+right of the landings to some object of interest.</p>
+
+<p>The stairs were not difficult but rather continuous, as we found before
+we reached the top. In the middle of the last flight was a narrow path
+leading to the snakes' bathing-place; this is formed out of solid rock
+and measures about one hundred and thirty feet in length. At the back
+the five-headed cobra has been carved in high relief; it is seven feet
+high and is represented as rising from the water. The sanctity of the
+mountain-top in the eyes of Buddhists is said to be due to the fact that
+on the summit alighted the royal missionary, Mahahindo, when he came
+from India, 307 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>; he there met the King, who was out hunting, and
+having listened to a discourse, the King<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span> became an ardent Buddhist, a
+fact which later resulted in the conversion of forty thousand of his
+followers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;">
+<img src="images/image77.jpg" width="336" height="500" alt="Mihitale Steps" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Mihitale_Steps" id="Mihitale_Steps"></a>Mihitale Steps</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Ceylon" id="Ceylon"></a>Ceylon</span>: The Ambustala dagoba now marks the spot of the meeting. It is
+built of stone, the terrace around it consisting of numerous columns.
+There are ruined statues, columns, and carved capitals scattered about,
+showing that formerly this was the basis for a group of buildings. There
+are also oblong cuttings in the rock, supposed to be the foundation of
+cave dwellings never completed. One more flight of stairs leads up to
+the gallery, surrounding the Mahaseya dagoba. The view from this highest
+gallery is magnificent; the great plain gave a wide vista, while beyond
+was an outline of the distant mountain range; nearer we saw great masses
+of green, through which shone the three great dagobas of Anuradhapura.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving the summit we held a conversation with the aged priest
+through an interpreter, and, retracing our steps, drove to the rest
+house for a ten-o'clock breakfast made up of coffee and rolls; then,
+returning to our temporary home in Anuradhapura, we pronounced the
+morning's excursion a success.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we took a drive with a guide through the inner circle,
+when there occurred the incident with the priest previously related.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span></p><p>At 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> the following day, we returned to Colombo, and again enjoyed
+the tropical vegetation, the views of mountain and valley, of rice and
+tea plantations, and the glimpse of native life which the short stay at
+stations afforded. Time thus passed in the mountains and country of
+Ceylon is indeed fraught with delight. We had an object lesson in the
+habits and customs of the so-called hill-country, Kandy furnishing many
+marked examples; there was particularly the large two-wheeled cart with
+oxen as propelling power. We were also interested in the Rodiyas, living
+in the outskirts, a people oppressed on account of a curse pronounced by
+a king many years ago, one of the conditions being the prohibition of
+clothes above the waist, both for men and women. The latter are noted
+for their beauty, and excel as singers and dancers, but they suffer
+under the stigma of immodesty for the reason given above.</p>
+
+<p>Three restful days followed; the hotel wore a homelike air, and the time
+was full of content and quiet enjoyment. Ceylon fascinated me from the
+first, and after the trip to the mountains and a more perfect
+realization of the natural advantages of the island, the impression
+deepened.</p>
+
+<p>The native people also struck me as being cheerful, but with more
+strength of character than the Burmese, and possessing a certain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> kind
+of dignity that was pleasing. The bazars too were found unusually
+interesting on a closer inspection, and offered many new and novel
+articles.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image78.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Street_scene_in_Kandy_Ceylon" id="Street_scene_in_Kandy_Ceylon"></a>Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon</span></div>
+
+<p>While there were carriage drives, this was our first introduction to the
+jinrikishas, and we found them most convenient and a novelty; only there
+was an uncomfortable feeling that the jinrikisha man in Ceylon was too
+slight for his occupation.</p>
+
+<p>The street scenes presented almost as cosmopolitan an aspect as those at
+Rangoon, and with quite as varied a mixture of nationality.</p>
+
+<p>There was a notable carriage drive of eight miles to Mt. Lavinia, a
+seaside resort with only a hotel perched on a hill, while below on the
+sandy beach were many fishing-boats. Here we whiled away an hour, and
+had afternoon tea.</p>
+
+<p>On Saturday evening, February 8th, we bade adieu to Ceylon, taking
+passage on the steamer <i>Delhi</i> of the P. &amp; O. line, which was to be our
+home until the 14th. We were assigned pleasant rooms, and the general
+environment was agreeable. There was little of incident on the trip
+until we landed at Penang, Malay peninsula, on the morning of the 13th.
+We made a special tour, and noted many beautiful homes with surrounding
+grounds and a general air of thrift. We were once more reminded of Great
+Britain's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span> supremacy in the Far East; it is surprising, the vast amount
+of colonizing, as well as civilizing, she has accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>In Penang, Chinamen were everywhere seen and Chinese business houses
+predominated. The Malay was, however, to be found as he should be on the
+Malay peninsula. At first it was difficult for us to realize that we had
+left the East, Penang being the portal of the Far East, of which
+Singapore is the gateway, her harbor being a famous shipping point.</p>
+
+<p>At 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we were sailing on for that port, which is regarded as the
+Paris of the Far East by the wealthy nabobs who frequent the city. The
+Chinese coolie who officiated as jinrikisha man was a sturdier specimen
+of humanity than the one seen at Colombo, and we could enjoy a ride
+without the conscientious scruples experienced at the former place.</p>
+
+<p>Arriving at Singapore, we found we must postpone our visit there, as the
+steamer <i>Rembrandt</i>, of the Dutch line, was soon to leave for Java.</p>
+
+<p>It was late in the afternoon when we sailed from Singapore; we caught
+some glimpses of the shore and noted the finest group of the traveller's
+palm we had as yet seen; also some pretty bungalow homes close to the
+water's edge, with tiny gardens enclosing palms and flowers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image79.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="The canal in the old city of Batavia" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_canal_in_the_old_city_of_Batavia" id="The_canal_in_the_old_city_of_Batavia"></a>The canal in the old city of Batavia</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span></p><p>There was scarcely a ripple to be detected, and the elements were
+hushed; the brilliant rays of the setting sun shed a halo over the
+peaceful landscape.</p>
+
+<p>We imagined there must be some premonition of the event which was to
+take place in the night, namely, the passing of the equatorial line; and
+we tried to keep our senses alert in order not to miss the subtle
+significance of so unusual an event, but in the morning there was the
+humiliating reflection that sleep had "won the day"! At noon we began to
+realize that we were at Summer's door and would soon learn the true
+quality of the tropical heat, of which we had had as yet only a prelude.</p>
+
+<p>The Java Sea was as placid as the Strait of Malacca had been, and there
+was little to break the monotony save a passing steamer, a glimpse of
+Sumatra's shore, and an occasional island. Another night passed, and in
+the morning we were at the harbor of Tandjong Priok, which is nine miles
+from the city of Batavia. We arrived there in a pouring rain; we were
+now in a land where rain is prevalent, this being the wet monsoon
+season.</p>
+
+<p>After a very slight custom-house inspection was completed, we left by
+train for <a name="Batavia" id="Batavia"></a>Batavia, one of the capitals of Java. We were at once
+impressed with the variety of the landscape and the tropical richness of
+the trees and shrubs.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span> The Dutch aspect of the architecture and the
+canals were evidence of the influence of the fatherland, but the natives
+seemed to be a mixture of Javanese and Malays, while the Chinese, as
+elsewhere, were to be seen in large numbers.</p>
+
+<p>The canals are the principal feature of the old city of Batavia; but
+along the streets one detects also many business houses and banks, some
+of the largest being Chinese.</p>
+
+<p>The H&ocirc;tel des Indes is located in the new city called Werengen. On
+entering the enclosure which surrounds the hotel, a large banyan tree
+was the central object directly in front of the hotel proper, situated
+nearly in the centre of a square.</p>
+
+<p>On three sides of the square are arranged a continuous series of
+one-story suite of rooms opening in front on a wide veranda, shut off
+from the adjacent suite by screens of stained glass and shaded by glass
+and awnings. This was the salon of the suite, furnished with rugs,
+chairs, centre table, and writing-desk. Here all waking hours are
+supposed to be passed. The largest homes of the residents are similarly
+arranged; such an exterior forms the large drawing-room, often
+beautifully furnished. It all seemed new and novel to us, but the climax
+was reached when we saw even matrons on exhibition in these show boxes,
+dressed in loose jackets,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span> sarongs drawn closely around them, and their
+bare feet simply encased in sandals; also stout Dutchmen in pajamas, and
+sometimes this costume was worn in the dining-room with the utmost
+unconcern, showing how customs vary in different countries.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image80.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="Batavia, Java" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Batavia_Java" id="Batavia_Java"></a>Batavia, Java</span></div>
+
+<p>The charming bungalow homes in the new city, surrounded by spacious
+grounds, pleased us, as did the business houses; some fronting on canals
+which were spanned by artistic bridges. The Museum of the Batavian
+Society of Arts and Sciences was rich in exhibits of Sumatra's and
+Borneo's products and handwork, as well as in Javanese antiquities and
+in articles of silver and gold workmanship, which were novel in design
+and skilfully executed. The building is classic in its lines and very
+pleasing.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><i>February 18th</i>: An early train, 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, for <a name="Buitenzorg" id="Buitenzorg"></a>Buitenzorg gave us the
+freshness of the morning for travel, and the two hours thus consumed
+were filled with exclamations of delight over the beauty of the scenery.
+Soon after our arrival at the Hotel Belle Vue, we drove to the Botanical
+Gardens, where, like Peradeniya in Ceylon, a revelation awaited us.
+Masses of pink lotus, white lilies, Victoria Regia, and other varieties
+of the lily family formed great patches of color on the miniature ponds
+that were their setting. Orchids in greenhouses and on trees put forth
+their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span> graceful flowers; palms of every description, candle trees with
+myriads of almost realistic candles which were suspended from the
+branches, sausage trees with veritable bolognas hanging from the limbs,
+bread-fruit trees, lovely vistas of the graceful banana, and groups of
+other foliage or shrubs surrounded us in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>The Governor's spacious residence looks out upon the park on one side,
+and a pretty summer-house overlooking a valley gave a picturesque touch
+to the place.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> The ride around the city showed lovely homes set in
+varied greens, and a general air of thrift and prosperity prevailed.</p>
+
+<p>The hotel is charmingly located and has pleasant features. It fronts on
+a garden, with a wide gallery overlooking the city. A square court in
+the rear is encircled by a series of rooms, with the front gallery
+looking on the court, and the back gallery facing a valley (the house is
+built on a side hill) through which runs a river with a tiny village on
+its border; while beyond a wide vista of cocoanut palms rises a range of
+mountains, Mt. Salak being the distinctive feature. Both galleries are
+well furnished, and here guests assemble when in the hotel. The view
+from the rear gallery I have never seen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span> surpassed in breadth, except
+perhaps by that in Granada, when from Miss Laird's balcony (near the
+Alhambra) we looked down upon the city, with the mountains beyond.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image81.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="View_of_Mt_Salak_from_the_Hotel_Belle_Vue" id="View_of_Mt_Salak_from_the_Hotel_Belle_Vue"></a>View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue</span></div>
+
+<p>The Javanese view was enjoyed for hours, as a heavy rain prevented our
+afternoon ride, and the letters that should have been written were
+somewhat neglected, owing to the view described.</p>
+
+<p>One shrinks at being called at four o'clock in the morning, at having
+breakfast at five, and at taking a train at six, but such was our
+experience on February 19th. One leaves Buitenzorg for Garoet as the
+first streak of dawn appears; as we sped along, we realized more and
+more what tropical vegetation and abundant rain could produce, for the
+vivid greens and dewy freshness of the foliage surpassed even Ceylon's
+landscape, which in its turn had surpassed anything before seen, even
+our own South and Southern California not excepted; Java is indeed the
+garden of the world! With remote mountain views on either side of us and
+nearer aspects of palms and trees bearing names unknown, there were
+interspersed rice plantations, unlike the flat fields of Burma,
+cultivated in terraces rising one above the other on hilly slopes. An
+occasional tea plantation lay here and there, and some traces of coffee
+plantations; the cultivation of the bean has been partly abandoned<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span>
+owing to the blight about ten years since.</p>
+
+<p>As the train climbed upward, our destination being <a name="Garoet" id="Garoet"></a>Garoet, two thousand
+feet above the sea-level, the scenery grew less marked, but we were
+still encircled by the Gedeh Mountain range. The great Garoet plain
+consists of wide level stretches and extended rice-fields, less marked
+by terraces than those we had seen before; therein is situated the
+quaint village of Garoet, a favorite hill resort, where we found the
+noted Hotel van Horck with its reputation for neatness and restful
+hospitality. The one-story building has suites of rooms looking out on a
+spacious garden, conventional in style, with its wealth of trees,
+shrubs, and flowers, also busts and statues. A large oval bed of
+brilliant crotons on one side of the garden, and another foliage bed
+that formed the base of a pyramidal vase on the other side, were
+especially admired.</p>
+
+<p>The pretty little village of Garoet seemed to breathe a spirit of
+contentment, and it is quite a resort for people from a lower altitude.
+It is also the starting-point for various excursions, some of which we
+took, but the daily rains proved an obstacle. The afternoon of our
+arrival we drove to a pretty lake, but a sudden rain prevented a sail to
+the island in an exceedingly quaint little kiosk, which rests on two
+long boats. The bad weather also prevented a visit to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span> Hot Springs,
+where baths of a rather primitive character are furnished.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image82.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="A village scene in Garoet, Java" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_village_scene_in_Garoet_Java" id="A_village_scene_in_Garoet_Java"></a>A village scene in Garoet, Java</span></div>
+
+<p>The most noted excursion is to the crater of Papandajang. We departed on
+this quest, about five in the morning, driving eleven miles to the rest
+house at Tjiseroepan, where ponies and sedan chairs were furnished for
+the ascent, a distance of about six miles. Four of our party selected
+saddle horses, and four preferred sedan chairs (I took the latter). The
+chairs are carried by four men, two in front and two in the back,
+supporting on their shoulders long bamboo poles on which the sedan is
+placed. They were similar to those used in the ascent of Tiger Hill, at
+Darjeeling, but seemed to be more like palanquins, for one could half
+recline therein.</p>
+
+<p>The ascent once begun, our eyes were riveted first on one side of the
+narrow roadway and then on the other, so diversified was the view: first
+patches of bananas, then palms and bamboo which formed an archway. Such
+was the continued landscape, while intervening spaces were devoted to
+the cultivation of coffee. The chichona plant, from which quinine is
+made, was also seen, and one or two patches of tea plantations. A
+picturesque feature of this ride was a double hedge made of two rows of
+bamboo poles with an occasional horizontal support, between which were
+vines, low palms, and unknown plants; as we ascended farther low<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span> ferns
+formed a fringe at the base of the hedge. Never have I seen anything
+lovelier than this trellis of Nature, which extended about half-way up
+the ascent; then the way grew narrower and we were in the real jungle.
+Here surprising wonders awaited us, towering palms and other trees,
+vines and giant ferns, some of which had taken root in crevices of a
+tall palm, producing a round basket effect. This was three times
+repeated on the trunks of several palms, a stray seed having, perhaps,
+settled there. It seemed to me as though the palm, if it could, would
+utter a protest.</p>
+
+<p>The higher we went, the larger and more varied grew the ferns. There had
+been flowers all the way&mdash;wild phlox, the primrose, the creeping
+periwinkle, and white and red dentura, together with many trees of
+brilliant foliage similar in color to our Autumn tints. There was also a
+very tall bush with clusters of bright yellow blossoms, in size much
+like our wild rose. When nearer the crater, the trees became small and
+the vegetation more sparse, until we reached the point where we left our
+chairs and commenced our final ascent, about one quarter of a mile, over
+broken pieces of lava. Then we arrived at the halting-point and gazed on
+the near crater, inhaling the sulphurous fumes, hearing the rumble, and
+seeing the clouds of vapor as they issued forth, with a mixture of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span>
+bright yellow sulphur. The volcano is now inactive, the last eruption
+having taken place in 1772, when forty villages were destroyed. At this
+time the side of the crater towards us was broken. It is altogether a
+fine spectacle.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image83.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The crater of Papandajang" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_crater_of_Papandajang" id="The_crater_of_Papandajang"></a>The crater of Papandajang</span></div>
+
+<p>Having partaken of our breakfast at ten-thirty, we prepared for our
+descent, when, alas! a pouring rain set in, and as the slight covering
+of the sedan chair afforded little protection, there was no avoiding a
+thorough wetting. We had thought of the fine views we would have in our
+descent, and were now glad of the occasional backward glances we had
+taken during our upward climb. These were fine, of great breadth,
+embracing distant mountains, nearer ones, and an occasional plain which
+is a characteristic feature of a Java landscape. The descent was very
+steep in places, and the footing of the men was rather uncertain; hence
+it was a relief when the task was accomplished. We viewed some new
+features every now and then, a noticeable one being a group of twelve
+very large banyan trees of the variety known as Werengen in a field near
+the rest house; their white gnarled trunks and limbs suggested the
+forest primeval.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning we drove twelve miles to Leles, past the broad Leles
+plain, and nearly all the way through a shaded avenue of trees, at times
+forming a natural archway. The lake<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span> was most picturesque, with its
+three islands and varied shore line. On one side there was a small
+cultivated mountain sloping to the water's edge. A heavy rain prevented
+the afternoon excursion.</p>
+
+<p>We left Garoet on February 22nd, for almost a day's railroad journey to
+Djokjakarta.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Djokjakarta" id="Djokjakarta"></a>Djokjakarta</span>, <i>February 22nd</i>: We arrived at Djokjakarta on Saturday,
+February 22nd, at 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> A drive followed, showing us an older and
+prettier place than Garoet, with a large Chinese quarter, in which the
+shops lacked much attraction.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan's palace was pointed out; it was by no means imposing. We saw
+his elephants, but declined to enter the enclosure where the tigers were
+confined. Some of the houses were Dutch in style; others were Javanese
+of the one-story bungalow type, with open fronts. Early the following
+day, at 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>., we drove to the ruined temple of Prambanam, and nine
+miles from Djokjakarta, we visited Chandi Kalasan ("chandi" means a
+mausoleum), a beautiful ruin, unfortunately too dilapidated to afford
+much satisfaction, but from the remains that have been found
+arch&aelig;ologists base their belief that it was incomparably beautiful in
+conception and workmanship. We also went to another temple, Chandi Sewo,
+about half a mile distant,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span> which also showed marks of great beauty.
+We drove on, perhaps a mile farther, and came to a wonderful group of
+temples, dating about the same period, known as Prambanam, where we saw
+what excited our wonder and admiration. Though the ruins did not contain
+a single genuine Buddha figure, holding only many images of Hindu gods,
+arch&aelig;ologists find ample proof that they were built by Buddhists (they
+have been called Hindu temples).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 337px;">
+<img src="images/image84.jpg" width="337" height="500" alt="The ruined temple of Prambanam" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_ruined_temple_of_Prambanam" id="The_ruined_temple_of_Prambanam"></a>The ruined temple of Prambanam</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image85.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Bas-reliefs in the Siva Temple, Prambanam" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Bas-reliefs_in_the_Siva_Temple_Prambanam" id="Bas-reliefs_in_the_Siva_Temple_Prambanam"></a>Bas-reliefs in the Siva Temple, Prambanam</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;">
+<img src="images/image86.jpg" width="339" height="500" alt="The stairs leading to a Prambanam temple" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_stairs_leading_to_a_Prambanam_temple" id="The_stairs_leading_to_a_Prambanam_temple"></a>The stairs leading to a Prambanam temple</span></div>
+
+<p>Time will not, however, permit an elucidation of them further than to
+state that Dr. Gronneman, a celebrated writer and arch&aelig;ologist and an
+accepted authority, believes that a number of monuments and bo-trees
+have within a few years been hewn out around the base of each of the
+temples, these being covered with the traditional parasols; many of the
+dagoba-shaped bells have also been found,&mdash;a symbol of the tree under
+which Prince Siddhartha attained Buddha-hood. Dr. Gronneman also calls
+them Prambanam. The ruins form a group of eight temples or
+chandis,&mdash;three greater and three lesser ones in two parallel rows,&mdash;the
+former on the west, the latter on the east side of the spacious square,
+with two smaller ones at the ends. These were doubtless mausolea built
+over the ashes of princes or chiefs. The temples were probably
+constructed toward the end of the eighth century, and unfinished
+sculptures show that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span> the work was stopped before completion. It is
+stated that possibly this may have been caused by the overthrow of the
+Empire at that time. There are two flights of stairs on each side, the
+lower leading to a landing which is raised a few feet above the terrace,
+but in the corners between the stairs and the wall of the basement are
+miniature temples of exquisite workmanship, the front and side walls of
+which had niches, each containing a high-relief figure of a man or a
+woman. The upper flight of stairs (three sides lead to the entrance to
+three chapels with pyramidal roofs of their own) have suffered much
+devastation.</p>
+
+<p>The largest of the temples has a broken image of Siva, more than life
+size. This, together with the nature of the bas-reliefs, has caused
+arch&aelig;ologists to name it the Siva Temple. In like manner the second
+temple has been called Brahma, and the third Vishnu, thus including the
+Indian triumvirate of gods. On the upper walls of the basements of all
+the principal temples are several series of sculptures, each following
+one division of the wall. Most of the niches contain small lions with
+curled manes, while some in the projecting part of the wall have three
+heavenly nymphs standing in a stately manner with arms interlaced. A
+series of sculptures which has been preserved almost intact on the inner
+side of the parapet wall of the Siva Temple is a repetition of the first
+part of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span> Rama legend as told in the Indian epic, "Ramayana," and it
+is thought that the corresponding series of the other temples may have
+represented the sequel to that history. A ponderous cornice richly
+ornamented, which is now almost gone, runs over this series of
+sculptures. Another series was found on the walls of the temple itself a
+few feet higher than the terrace, and still higher up there is a more
+continuous series, but the arches and figures are lost in the almost
+general wreck which time and the elements have wrought. Only a hint of
+the character of these ruins has been given, but with the aid of the
+illustrations, some idea of them, of their entire beauty, as well as of
+the imposing majesty of the sculptures, may be gained. The Loro Jonggram
+Temple has a celebrated bas-relief in an elaborate niche, called the
+"Three Graces."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;">
+<img src="images/image87.jpg" width="339" height="500" alt="The Three Graces in the Lara Jongram Temple, Java" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Three_Graces_in_the_Lara_Jongram_Temple_Java" id="The_Three_Graces_in_the_Lara_Jongram_Temple_Java"></a>The Three Graces in the Lara Jongram Temple, Java</span></div>
+
+<p>About a quarter of a mile distant from the Prambanam there is another
+group of temples covering the largest circumference of any other group
+in the region. The principal temple, much surpassing the others in size,
+stood on a raised rectangular terrace, enclosed by a low wall with a
+gateway in the middle of each side. A little lower there were
+twenty-eight temples forming a rectangular enclosure, and another more
+spacious court was enclosed by forty-four temples. There was a still
+larger rectangular terrace with eighty temples, and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span> lower terrace
+with eighty-eight temples, making two hundred and forty in all; hence,
+by exaggeration, the name, "One Thousand Temples." Each of the temples,
+which diminish in size, forms a square with a little approach and small
+<i>steos</i> leading to the inner room. The largest temple of the group was
+rich in detail and sculpture designs, which, like the Prambanam group,
+relate to the Indian triumvirate, Siva, Brahma, and Vishnu, with the
+same evidences, however, as to Buddhist origin. There were still other
+ruined temples in the vicinity which could not be visited, but we drove
+back the nine miles to Djokjakarta, feeling that we had had a rich
+morning's experience and also deeply impressed with the labor, patience,
+and skill which these ruins represented.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at the Hotel Mataram in time for luncheon in the pleasant
+open dining-room, leading to a garden filled with trees, from whose
+branches were suspended orchids of various hues. February 24th was the
+date fixed for a trip of twelve miles by carriage to the Buddhist
+temple, Boro Boedor, but the late rains of the monsoon season had
+carried away a bridge that must be crossed; hence a grave doubt arose as
+to whether we would be able to go. Our enthusiasm, however, led us to
+take the risk, with the result that on reaching the scene of the wreck
+we found an improvised footbridge and another<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span> train awaiting us on the
+opposite side. Our railway journey terminated, we took a carriage for a
+drive of several miles, stopping on our way at the old temple of
+Mendoet, small but very perfect in its construction, with fine
+bas-reliefs and large architectural ornaments; also some immense savage
+gargoyles, which were especially noticeable.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;">
+<img src="images/image88.jpg" width="339" height="500" alt="The old temple at Mendoet" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_old_temple_at_Mendoet" id="The_old_temple_at_Mendoet"></a>The old temple at Mendoet</span></div>
+
+<p>We ascended the stairs to the inner room, where was a large-sized figure
+of Buddha, with the attendant figures at each side called his sons,
+Buddhavista, meaning "future Buddhas." Driving on, we came to another
+missing bridge. Here we were taken across on a rude raft, the carriage
+following, and then the horses. As we drew near Boro Boedor, a feeling
+of awe came over us, for we were to behold a temple which for centuries
+had been buried from the sight of man. Indeed, until the debris of time
+was removed, after English occupation in 1811, not a hint of its
+existence even had been known. This work was undertaken by Sir Stamford
+Raffles before the cession of Java to the Dutch in 1816, and carried on,
+aided by eminent arch&aelig;ologists. Much has been done by the Government and
+by an Arch&aelig;ologist Society since 1885, and at the time we were there it
+was said that about one thousand workmen were employed on the temple.</p>
+
+<p>The approach being over a hill, the view of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span> temple is suddenly
+disclosed, but from the rest house we had a side glimpse. This is
+confusing at first, and the structure seems too broad for the height,
+thus lacking in impressiveness; but as one approaches and the huge mass
+takes on color and expression, with the many-sided pyramids of dark gray
+stone, the mass of cupolas, spires, and walls surrounded by a high
+central dome, the impression taken altogether becomes almost
+overpowering. It is a structure difficult to describe, but a few
+outlines with the aid of the illustrations may give you some idea at
+least of its size and impressiveness.</p>
+
+<p>First, it is not a building in the ordinary sense and has no entrance.
+It is the top of a hill, artificially lowered and encircled with
+galleries built by human hands. The lowest terrace, which is shown in
+the picture, forms the upper portion of a terrace wall, which is still
+submerged below the soil. This terrace has thirty-six sides, measuring
+three hundred and seventy-four feet in diameter. Below is a larger
+terrace, square in shape, estimated at five hundred feet; it is
+underground, while above it is another of the same shape as the middle
+terrace, from which it is reached by stairways on each of the four
+sides. Some years ago it was discovered that three terraces were of a
+later date than the original internal structure, which is more slender
+in shape, and that they were constructed in order to support<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span> the latter
+when it began to show signs of settling. The base of the lower terrace
+has been exposed in places in order to obtain photographs of the
+beautiful bas-reliefs, but it was subsequently covered, inasmuch as it
+would have been a grave mistake to run the risk of leaving it
+permanently exposed.</p>
+
+<p>The building above the three terraces consists of four parapeted
+galleries, erected upon the internal walls of the lower gallery, and of
+four upper terraces, the three highest of which are circular. The
+topmost terrace is crowned by a large cupola, or dagoba. The Boro
+Boedor, from its base to the top of the cupola, has a height of
+ninety-seven feet, while the elevation of the hill to the lower step is
+about fifty-five feet, making a total of one hundred and fifty-two feet.
+Each of the lower galleries is about seven feet wide, the walls on
+either side being lined with sculptures which, if they could be extended
+in a line, would cover three miles. We walked around the galleries and
+ascended the steps.</p>
+
+<p>In the lower gallery there is, beneath every Buddha, a representation of
+a man, on either side of which are groups of three figures, each bearing
+lotus flowers and fans.</p>
+
+<p>The inner circle of the second gallery contains, in the upper row,
+bas-reliefs representing scenes connected with the history of Prince<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span>
+Siddhartha (Gautama) from his infancy to the period when he attained
+Nirvana.</p>
+
+<p>The third gallery wall contains one hundred and eighty bas-reliefs,
+depicting the apotheosis of Buddha. The fourth, in eighty different
+scenes, pictures the rewards given to kings who have been Buddha
+worshippers, while the fifth contains a large number of images of Buddha
+and of two kings, probably the founders of the temple. Other bas-reliefs
+that are interspersed represent fanciful subjects and scenes from life
+or are illustrations of legends; one of the latter deals with the
+turtle, which is regarded as sacred by all true Buddhists.</p>
+
+<p>Staircases ascend from gallery to gallery in a straight line on each of
+four sides. These have pointed arches with carved keystones, and
+formerly were guarded by heavy banisters and carved lions. The parapeted
+walls of the galleries were once decorated with four hundred and
+thirty-two niches, each with three turrets, and contained four hundred
+and thirty-two life-sized Buddhas, seated on lotus cushions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image89.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Boro Boedor, in Java" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Boro_Boedor_in_Java" id="Boro_Boedor_in_Java"></a>Boro Boedor, in Java</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image90.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Stairway of Boro Boedor, Java" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Stairway_of_Boro_Boedor_Java" id="Stairway_of_Boro_Boedor_Java"></a>Stairway of Boro Boedor, Java</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image91.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Boro Boedor, Java, showing one part of the gallery" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Boro_Boedor_Java_showing_one_part_of_the_gallery" id="Boro_Boedor_Java_showing_one_part_of_the_gallery"></a>Boro Boedor, Java, showing one part of the gallery</span></div>
+
+<p>The three upper circular terraces are individually adorned with
+thirty-two, twenty-four, and sixteen openwork bell-shaped cupolas, or
+dagobas, each containing a Buddha in sitting posture. Inside this circle
+rises the central dagoba of huge, imposing dimensions, the final crown
+to the whole structure. This is modelled after the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span>same type as the
+smaller ones, but its walls rise perpendicularly from the base, which
+has the form of a huge lotus cushion in a beautiful frame, and ends at
+the top in a slightly rounded dome rising at least twenty-seven feet
+above the highest terrace. Of the cone which formerly surrounded this
+dagoba nothing is left except part of the pedestal, a stone block
+afterwards fashioned into a seat five feet high by ten feet broad. This
+is reached by some rough stone steps. The cupola, or dagoba, was at one
+time entirely closed, but when opened some years ago it was found to
+contain a large unfinished figure of Buddha.</p>
+
+<p>Our party climbed to the seat alluded to, and what a view presented
+itself!&mdash;a wide valley or plain, miles in extent, surrounded by the
+towering Minoch mountains in the distance, with lesser mountains
+seemingly as foothills, but nevertheless some of them volcanic craters;
+villages almost concealed by the masses of foliage, with whole tracts of
+palms and masses of green,&mdash;and all bathed in the glorious sunlight. We
+sat spellbound, and finally descended the long flight of stairs feeling
+we had had a morning's experience which never could be repeated. In the
+words of Dr. Gronneman (to whom we owe a debt of gratitude for his
+explanations), "upwards of a thousand years have since rolled over the
+Boro Boedor; earthquakes and ash showers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span> have disjointed its walls, and
+rank vegetation has disintegrated its foundation, ... and shortsighted
+fanatics have defaced its works of art, but still the ruin stands there,
+an imposing fact, a powerful creation of the thinking mind, an epic in
+stone, immortal even in its decadence."</p>
+
+<p>We walked to the pleasant rest house, called Passagrahan, for our
+luncheon. Soon the rain which had threatened us fell in torrents, but
+neither this fact nor any other obstacle dimmed our enthusiasm as we
+sped on our homeward way. To prove my own absorption in the day's
+programme I would state that I amused the party on our arrival at the
+train by saying to our Malay servant, "Buddha, will you take my wrap?"
+his name being Pandox.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning I drove about Djokjakarta in search of photographs and
+found the place much more attractive than I had supposed. One long
+avenue of trees in particular impressed me; on alternate sides were the
+tamarind and the canary tree, forming a perfect arch overhead. This
+continued for a long way, and there were various other shaded streets
+that attracted my attention.</p>
+
+<p>Djokjakarta is a place of importance, the capital of a native State; the
+Sultan preserves some semblance of power and lives in regal style,
+keeping up all the ceremonials of his high office. This was one of the
+last provinces to yield<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span> to Dutch rule. There is a Dutch resident to
+whom the Sultan must pay deference and from whom he accepts advice. We
+did not see the Sultan, but we saw four sons of his out driving, dressed
+in red and each carrying a red silk umbrella, the emblem of royalty.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image92.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="A public square in Djokjakarta, Java" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_public_square_in_Djokjakarta_Java" id="A_public_square_in_Djokjakarta_Java"></a>A public square in Djokjakarta, Java</span></div>
+
+<p>The life at Djokjakarta is much like that of old Java, and the peasants
+are said to be of a higher type than those corresponding to the coolie
+class in India and Ceylon, many of this class in Java being Sudanese.
+There are several strains of blood in Java, and a mixture of Arab
+ancestry with Mohammedan faith; for centuries, Java passed through many
+transitions, and it would be interesting to trace her history backward.</p>
+
+<p>Djokjakarta being but twelve miles from the Indian Ocean, the heat is
+never oppressive, and the breezes from sea and mountain produce an
+agreeable temperature, as I found one morning, much to my delight. The
+bazars were not enticing, but there were various attractive articles for
+sale at the hotel,&mdash;cardcases made with tiny feathers, portemonnaies,
+woven baskets, and, above all, sarongs, the product of a large factory
+near by, which has been fostered by English and Dutch women as a kind of
+philanthropy for the teaching and employment of girls, as the
+"manageress" at the hotel explained to us. These sarongs are four and a
+half yards long by one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span> and one-half wide, the fabric, though heavier,
+being similar to calico. The patterns are quite artistic, and the
+process of designing, drawing, stamping, and weaving is complicated.</p>
+
+<p>The Water Castle was formerly like a summer-house in an Oriental garden,
+with its underground chambers and all manner of appliances for luxurious
+ease. It has now fallen into decay; the aqueducts and fountains are
+stilled; the statues are covered with moss, and the gardens are a
+perfect tangle. It was the device of a Portuguese architect of a century
+ago.</p>
+
+<p>The streets were less crowded in Djokjakarta than one would expect in a
+city which ranks the fifth in Java; everywhere there were groups of
+really happy-faced children, and mothers looking like mere girls, with
+infants carried usually on the left hip, sometimes in a sling over the
+shoulders. In Java, as in other countries we have visited, there is no
+middle-aged class among the women; they are either young or old,
+although in reality not old. One is considerably handicapped in Java
+unless Dutch or the dialect can be spoken, for, in learning from others
+the true inwardness of things, we are powerless without language,
+however much we might supply certain physical needs by the use of
+pantomime.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Maos" id="Maos"></a>Maos</span>, <i>February 25th</i>: At 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> on the 25th of February, we took the
+train for Maos, in order<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span> to break the long railway journey to Batavia.
+The ride of three and a half hours carried us through the same
+diversified landscape of fertile fields or plains of rice, palms, and
+bamboo, with mountains in the distance. One feature, however, deserves
+special mention; it was a country roadway, visible at frequent intervals
+for at least two hours, and lined on each side with tall trees which met
+in many arches. This was evidently a highway or postroad, worthy of
+emulation in other lands, and planned by the Government, a veritable
+blessing to man and beast.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image93.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Designing sarongs in Batavia" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Designing_sarongs_in_Batavia" id="Designing_sarongs_in_Batavia"></a>Designing sarongs in Batavia</span></div>
+
+<p>We passed a comfortable night in Maos at the Government rest house,
+Staats, and left at the early hour of 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> for a return journey to
+Batavia. We found that when we reached a junction, our train diverged
+over a new route, giving us a different outlook, not unlike our first
+experience, but, it seemed, with finer mountain scenery. First we
+climbed to an altitude of about twenty-two hundred feet; then gradually
+descended, our objective point, Batavia, being at sea-level. Many of the
+high mountains showed cultivation to the very top, while the plains with
+their alternate groups of bamboo, cocoanut, and other palms, were green
+with the new rice crop, the cultivation of this commodity being
+different in Java from that in Burma. Great care is expended on the
+culture of the rice, the tiny plants first being put in small wet
+enclosures;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span> then, when sufficiently developed, they are planted
+separately by the small army of workers, in receptacles made for them,
+and set with the greatest regularity. The workers consist usually of
+women or young girls, and the varied colors of their dress&mdash;or
+undress&mdash;presented a marked feature. We also saw more coffee cultivated
+than on any previous route, and it is to be regretted that the blight of
+ten years ago has taken this old form of industry from the Javanese.
+Strange as it may seem, we had no Java coffee in Java, the land of the
+celebrated brand; nor did we see anything but a very strong extract of
+coffee (to which was added a large quantity of milk), good and
+convenient, no doubt, but not at all like the real article.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived in Batavia during the afternoon; the hotel wore a homelike
+air, and we passed a restful twenty-four hours with only a drive as the
+regular programme. I have already treated of the marked natural
+advantages of Java, and of the temples; too much cannot be said of this
+"Garden of the East," with its varied landscape of alternating mountains
+and plains, its wealth of trees in myriad forms, its shrubs which in
+their luxuriance seem tree-like, and its tangle of vines and blossoming
+flowers. But it appeared to me as if this holiday side of nature and the
+workaday aspect of the life in Java did not harmonize, and I wondered if
+this condition was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span> caused by Dutch thrift being grafted on to the
+native Javanese temperament, which in its incipiency was simple and
+disinclined to much exertion. Certain it is that the women of Java,
+while apparently contented, look careworn and have deep lines in their
+faces, and the perfect cultivation of the soil,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> which is largely done
+by women, shows that constant toil must be required of them. Added to
+this is the care of a bevy of little ones&mdash;more infants to the square
+yard than I had ever seen before.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image94.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Landscape near Batavia" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Landscape_near_Batavia" id="Landscape_near_Batavia"></a>Landscape near Batavia</span></div>
+
+<p>These true children of Nature are seemingly trusting and believing, and
+they ask no better fate than they have. The question obtrudes itself,
+Would life have been easier if the English had not again ceded Java to
+Holland in 1816, after only a five years' tenure? This query regarding
+the Orient in general also comes up: Is it better to leave the peoples
+undisturbed in their ignorance of the broader life and higher
+conditions, or to try to teach them ways foreign to their
+nature,&mdash;efforts which might end in failure? This is the problem that
+confronts the philanthropist at every turn, and were it not for the
+possibility of alleviating the condition of womanhood, it might be well
+to abandon all charitable effort. Scientists believe, nevertheless, that
+while it will be a slow, laborious process,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span> much can be done in time;
+it behooves us who have our homes in a country where it is a pleasure to
+live not to turn a deaf ear to appeals like that made by Ramabai, who at
+Pina, near Bombay, is laboring to uplift the condition of child widows
+in India. The great volume of missionary effort is also turned in the
+same direction, and through schools and hospitals the social workers are
+paving the way toward better conditions, in spite of the criticism of
+some who derisively speak of the failure to "save souls," without
+thinking that the first step is to emancipate the body.</p>
+
+<p>When I regard the condition of the women of the Orient, I feel like
+starting an immediate crusade&mdash;in Egypt they are slaves or toys; in
+India, bound by the iron laws of custom and caste, sad and dejected; in
+Burma, happy because independent on business and property lines, thanks
+to the English Government; in Ceylon, cheerful but with no recognized
+positions; in Java, children of toil; in Siam, fearless and intrepid in
+temperament, but subject to the conditions of the Orient; in China,
+Manchuria, and Korea, seemingly impassive but bound by traditional
+customs, enforced for centuries; in Japan, bright and winsome, true
+children of Nature, still held by the customs of years, however much the
+barriers are being broken down by the progressive policy of the country.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image95.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Javanese vegetable sellers" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Javanese_vegetable_sellers" id="Javanese_vegetable_sellers"></a>Javanese vegetable sellers</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span></p><p>As tourists remaining but a short time in a place, we did not have the
+pleasure of meeting the higher class of women in any of the countries
+visited, but I saw a Javanese lady in Kyoto who dined several times with
+an English lady; her self-possession and dignity of manner were pleasant
+to note, while her responsive smile showed quick intelligence. She had
+been the wife of an English gentleman for twenty years, but still wore
+the graceful kimono, which showed her good sense. Strange as it may
+seem, the founder of Buddhism, with all his teaching of love to mankind,
+filial duty, kindness to animals, and moral precepts in general, failed
+to extend to women, for whom he is said to have had little respect, any
+encouragement other than the abolishing of the law of caste. But,
+notwithstanding, he had many women followers, some even becoming nuns.</p>
+
+<p>The vehicles of the countries we visited were always individual, and I
+have failed to allude to the peculiar sadoe of Java, a two-wheeled cart
+drawn by a small horse, a seat for four persons being placed over the
+axle. The driver is comfortable, but the passengers with no backs for
+support are tossed about unmercifully. This sadoe has a canopy top; it
+is like the jinrikisha, convenient for a shopping excursion, but I pity
+any one who attempts to take a long drive in it! One morning I went out
+alone, and in turning<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span> a street corner I was nearly thrown and my
+packages flew in every direction. I felt that I needed a little
+sympathy, but the imperturbable Dutch coachman(?) never even smiled, so
+I concluded it was an every-day occurrence. A dignitary with attendants
+on each side carrying umbrellas is amusing.</p>
+
+<p>The variety of fruit is greater in Java than anywhere else we had been;
+the bananas, however, while fine to look upon were coarse and had little
+flavor; the pineapples were not as excellent as in Ceylon, nor were the
+mangosteens. A photograph I have shows at least twenty-five varieties of
+fruit; the pisang being universally used, as well as the rambutan,
+durian, pomalo, and papaya. The bread-fruit and jack-fruit grow to
+enormous size.</p>
+
+<p>At luncheon (<i>riz taffel</i>) I again noticed a peculiar dish being served.
+This consisted of rice, vegetables of various sorts, four or five kinds
+of meat, and a wonderful mixture of condiments, the variety sometimes
+including twenty, all placed in one receptacle similar to a deep
+soup-plate and evidently enjoyed by the partakers; this was only one
+course of the luncheon!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 337px;">
+<img src="images/image96.jpg" width="337" height="500" alt="A Javanese dignitary and his attendants" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_Javanese_dignitary_and_his_attendants" id="A_Javanese_dignitary_and_his_attendants"></a>A Javanese dignitary and his attendants</span></div>
+
+<p>The Dutch ways of dressing in Java are truly remarkable; for instance,
+sarongs, thin jackets, and almost bare feet were often seen in a
+dining-room. To me the culmination of this unconventionality came later;
+the heat was so <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span>oppressive that after luncheon I was glad to enjoy a
+rocker on my gallery, and might have envied the couple on the adjoining
+gallery had I been differently educated. For, strangely, the lady wore
+only a sarong of thin material, a diaphanous jacket, and very low
+sandals; she might almost have posed as a life model. As a foil, her
+husband appeared in pajamas.</p>
+
+<p>At 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> on February 22nd, we took a train for Priok port, which was
+nine miles distant. The steamer <i>Orange</i> (of the Dutch line) was waiting
+for us, and we were soon sailing for Singapore. Once more we passed the
+equator without one thrill of excitement, and, after thirty-six hours,
+were at Singapore, where we were at once transferred to the steamer
+<i>Nuen-tung</i> (the Chinese for "good luck"), North German Lloyd line,
+bound for Bangkok, Siam, the trip requiring four and a half days. The
+steamer was small and only fairly comfortable; the service was Chinese.
+A pleasant feature of the arrangement was an improvised dining-room on
+the upper deck; here all our meals were served, and most of our time
+passed, the temperature being high enough to prevent the chilling of the
+food, which is an indication that the heat must have been rather
+oppressive when in our staterooms. Hence two-thirds of the passengers
+slept on deck, resulting at about nine in the evening in a veritable
+transformation scene. In India we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span> had escaped insects and reptiles; we
+were very fortunate also in Burma, with only a few singing lizards in
+Ceylon; but on this steamer the cockroaches which appeared at night were
+marvellous in size and blackness. Once I imagined there was one on my
+pillow, and turning on the electric light, found I was mistaken, but
+there were a dozen or more on the washstand and walls&mdash;very animated
+specimens, to judge by the way they fled.</p>
+
+<p>From the Strait of Malacca we passed into the China Sea, thence to the
+Gulf of Siam, and lastly to the broad Menam River, with banks showing
+masses of foliage, and with tiny Siamese villages or isolated houses
+built close to the water's edge, supported on piles, with thatched roofs
+and sides.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Bangkok" id="Bangkok"></a>Bangkok</span>, <i>March 4th</i>: Arriving at Bangkok, we took the steamer launch
+for the Oriental Hotel, which is situated on the river-bank. The canals
+leading out of the river reminded us of Batavia. A drive in the
+afternoon of our arrival, accompanied by the Rev. Mr.&mdash;&mdash;, a medical
+missionary, as a non-professional guide, was a new experience and an
+agreeable one, for during the afternoon and evening we learned many
+things about the King that a native guide would not have told us. The
+report showed the King to be progressive in his tendencies; as the
+result<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span> of several trips to Europe, he has introduced railways,
+telegraph and modern business appliances, and is making a great effort
+to beautify the city and to improve sanitary conditions, having employed
+French engineers for that purpose.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 337px;">
+<img src="images/image97.jpg" width="337" height="500" alt="The King of Siam" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_King_of_Siam" id="The_King_of_Siam"></a>The King of Siam</span></div>
+
+<p>I think it might be well to give a slight historical background in order
+the better to understand the conditions of Siam. It is thought that the
+aborigines of Siam were driven out by Laos tribes from the North and
+that they then adopted the name Thai as a sign of victory, Siam
+signifying progress.</p>
+
+<p>In 1350, Ayuthia, a few miles north of Bangkok, became the capital; for
+three centuries Siam was prosperous and opened trade relations with
+China. There were, however, many raids and much fighting until 1536,
+when the King was taken prisoner.</p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese commenced trading with Siam early in the sixteenth
+century, and soon after gave the Siamese military aid against their
+border foes, the troops coming from Goa. As a reward for their services
+they were offered land on which to settle. Later, the soldiers married
+Siamese women and became domesticated. As they had brought their
+Catholic priests with them, conversion of the natives followed, and some
+of the old settlements retain their Christian character to this day.</p>
+
+<p>A few years after the Portuguese advent, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> Dutch came, but the
+English did not arrive until 1620, and during the latter part of the
+seventeenth century the three nations were seeking trade relations.
+Great toleration and friendliness to other countries seemed to have been
+practiced even in that early day; French missionaries were also
+welcomed. Soon after, a Siamese embassy left with presents for King
+Louis of France, but they were shipwrecked on the way. Later, another
+embassy went to Versailles, and Louis XIV, much flattered, sent a return
+embassy, which was accorded a great reception in Lopburi, where a treaty
+was signed in 1605, sanctioning the presence of French missionaries.
+There were several subsequent upheavals at Ayuthia, and in 1767 the city
+fell under the strong Burman attack; thus ended the third dynasty of
+Siamese kings. The Burmans, however, were soon conquered, and the
+capital was moved to Bangkok. In the middle of the nineteenth century,
+treaties were made with Great Britain and the other important powers,
+while Cambodia was ceded to France.</p>
+
+<p>The present monarch, Chulalongkorn, ascended the throne in 1868, and has
+since governed the country consistently and well. In May, 1874, a
+political constitution was adopted. The King began his reign by
+decreeing that slavery be abolished, and he instituted several other
+reforms. For many years troublous times<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span> with France ensued; this
+finally aroused the indignation of England, and in 1896 an Anglo-French
+agreement was signed in London, by which both countries guaranteed to
+maintain the integrity of the Menam valley.</p>
+
+<p>Siam has during the past few years made rapid progress in the adoption
+of Western ways and Western ideals, thanks to the progressive King, and
+this is attracting visitors from Europe and America more and more. The
+country's position has kept it rather isolated; it is out of the beaten
+track, and is situated between the great commercial ports of Singapore
+and Hong-Kong. Until recently it could not be reached by any passenger
+steamship lines. One's impression of the kingdom must be formed largely
+from Bangkok, as the mountain districts offer no facilities for the
+comfort of visitors, being a decided contrast to Ceylon, Burma, and Java
+in this respect.</p>
+
+<p>The area of Siam is about two hundred thousand square miles, and the
+population is over six million,&mdash;mostly native, for there are not over
+twenty thousand representatives of other powers in the kingdom, nor are
+there more than two thousand Europeans.</p>
+
+<p>Bangkok, like Rangoon, has enormous exports of rice, teak, and many
+other commodities; there are large rice factories, and we saw the
+elephants dragging logs to the river, as in Rangoon, whence they are
+brought on rafts to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span> immense sawmills. Unfortunately, a shallow bar
+at the mouth of the Menam River prevents the passage of large vessels.
+Therefore much of the cargo has to be carried to Koh-si-Chang, outside
+the bar, a distance of fifty miles. Koh-si-Chang is quite a favorite
+resort for the Europeans, Aughin on the coast being another. In the
+latter place there is a large sanitarium.</p>
+
+<p>The revenue of Siam has been mostly derived from the so-termed gambling
+and opium farms. The gambling-houses were formerly great sights in the
+country, but, according to the authority of a gentleman, gambling has
+now been almost entirely abolished in the kingdom, through the strenuous
+efforts of the King. He, however, has been unable to effect this reform
+in Bangkok. For some time Siam has had a proposal before the powers
+which import goods to the effect that the Government be allowed an
+import duty of two per cent, which would furnish the needed revenue for
+State expenses and thus enable the Government to abolish gambling in
+Bangkok altogether. Thus far, the King's proposition has not been
+accepted, showing that the interest of foreign powers controls affairs
+in Siam as well as in other more civilized countries.</p>
+
+<p>We visited several places of interest that first afternoon with Dr.
+W&mdash;&mdash; as an excellent guide, going first to the Chinese quarter, and
+then taking a general drive. We passed many attractive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span> points,
+particularly in the direction of the new section of the city, of which
+Dusit Park is the centre. This is laid out in the fashion of a park in a
+European capital, having walks, masses of foliage, and conventional
+features in the arrangement of flowers and shrubs. What with the
+tropical growth, it will soon excel any model the King may have seen in
+his European tour.</p>
+
+<p>A new palace is situated near the park, and as soon as this was begun, a
+real-estate development was started around it; the jungle disappeared,
+roads were laid out, and buildings sprang up. Dusit Park is now the
+scene of many activities, and a fancy fair is held there every year,
+with a view to secure funds for the building of the new Wat, or temple,
+which is adjacent, the old one showing signs of decadence.</p>
+
+<p>Buddhism is the State religion, and the King is an ardent devotee; new
+Wats are in constant process of erection, and those in existence are
+lavishly decorated. The new temple alluded to shows European influence
+in its arrangement, having a cloister around a square court in the rear.
+Two other temples were visited, and a further drive taken. On our return
+we went to the place of places in Bangkok, thoroughly Chinese in
+character,&mdash;a combination of gambling-den, chop-house, and theatre,
+covering in space about a block. The gambling-den was dimly lighted, and
+on the floor in a large circle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span> were seated men and women, either
+playing the game of fan-tan or anxiously awaiting their turn. I did not
+understand the game, but the haggard expressions and restless attitudes
+around me told a tale of dissipation and ruin. We remained only a few
+moments, then passed into the chop-house, which was crowded and where
+eatables of the Chinese type were <i>en &eacute;vidence</i> in every direction. The
+theatre was not yet open, but it was spacious, with a large stage. This
+compound is only one of several, and while mainly patronized by Chinese,
+many Siamese and people of other nationalities are drawn in. Tales
+similar to those heard in Monte Carlo could be related. It is to be
+hoped that erelong the King will bring about some measure to abolish
+this standing menace to the morals of the community.</p>
+
+<p>A pleasant dinner and much discussion followed. We learned that there
+were fine hospitals and schools under different missionary auspices, Dr.
+W&mdash;&mdash; being Presbyterian. To prove the success of the so-called
+Christian effort, he stated that the King gave every encouragement to
+all denominations, and also donated money to aid in building churches,
+feeling that their influence in the country was good.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image98.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="In_the_Royal_Palace_of_Wang_Chang_Bangkok" id="In_the_Royal_Palace_of_Wang_Chang_Bangkok"></a>In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok</span></div>
+
+<p>The Roman Catholics on account of their priority have a wide field in
+Siam; they have erected about sixty churches in the kingdom. But there
+are, nevertheless, several Protestant <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span>churches of different
+denominations in Bangkok and in the interior. A special permit is
+necessary before visiting Wang Chang, the royal palace, a point of much
+interest. The walls around the building enclose a wide area, including
+the old mint and various Government departments. Just in the rear of the
+Department of the Interior, the sacred white elephants are to be found,
+five in number. They are, however, at present pale gray (whatever they
+may have been in the past), which detracts somewhat from the validity of
+the previous statement. Each animal has a house to himself, is greatly
+petted, and it is expected that the elephants will be treated by
+visitors to bananas, and the attendants to cigarettes.</p>
+
+<p>Approaching the palace, the Royal Halls of Audience are the most
+striking feature. The building in which they are to be found is very
+large and of a semi-classic style of architecture, the Italian and
+Siamese being blended. These halls are the only portions of the palace
+to which visitors are admitted. Fronting this building on the opposite
+side of a half square stand several small buildings of a pleasing style.
+These contain antique articles, such as boats, bronze cannon, and other
+relics in bronze.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most striking features in this palace enclosure is Prakeo,
+the royal temple. Its entrance is unique, while the Chinese "Devil<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span>
+Protectors" at each side are grotesque. The temple also contains the
+celebrated emerald Buddha, a figure, eighteen inches high, made from the
+largest emerald known in the world. There is, moreover, an exquisite
+small gold Buddha in a glass case, besides many rare vases and other
+articles with, of course, the usual Buddhas in the shrine. Next to the
+palace is a recreation ground, called Premane, where golf is played. The
+race track, however, has been removed to Sapatoom. A very fine Wat Poh
+near the palace contains an immense sleeping Buddha and many other
+interesting features, one of which is a small painted dado illustrating
+the legend of Rama.</p>
+
+<p>The royal museum, Wang Nah, is near the royal palace. It is full to
+repletion with objects of interest, especially to the ethnologist and to
+the arch&aelig;ologist. Some of the treasures are almost beyond price in
+value, but they are not very well displayed. The galleries are open to
+the public, free of charge, and the visitors' book is quite interesting,
+as it contains the signatures of a number of royalties and celebrities.
+Several of the attendants spoke excellent English and were most
+courteous in their explanations.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image99.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Entrance to Prakeo, the Royal Temple" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Entrance_to_Prakeo_the_Royal_Temple" id="Entrance_to_Prakeo_the_Royal_Temple"></a>Entrance to Prakeo, the Royal Temple</span></div>
+
+<p>Fronting the royal palace are the artillery and royal body-guard
+barracks and the Hall of the Ambassadors, where distinguished visitors
+are entertained during their stay. Not far distant <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span>are the royal
+Courts of Justice, a Doric building, whose interior is arranged in
+European style. The State barges are kept near the museum and across the
+river. Some of them are very large and have room for one hundred rowers,
+whilst most of them are very ancient. These boats are used in the State
+functions on the river. Almost directly opposite the palace is a naval
+dockyard. It is not large compared with those of Europe and America, but
+a great variety of work is carried on. There are large machine shops and
+spacious quarters for officers and marines, a graving dock capable of
+accommodating vessels of large size, and an ice factory which supplies
+the navy and the royal palace. There is also a fine Royal Military
+College in Siam. Other Government departments show the great progress of
+the country, particularly when it is remembered that fifty years ago
+Bangkok had no facilities whatsoever.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we took a steam launch to explore different canals. The
+first we visited in order to acquaint ourselves with the traffic and
+with various kinds of boats, some being loaded at warehouses along the
+way. The buildings were very unusual, as were the sights on the water.
+We then went on the river Menam, to visit certain temples. Among these
+were Wat Saket, which stands on the summit of an artificial hill and
+commands a fine view; and Wat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span> Kanayat, where there was a collection of
+porcelain-trimmed temples and pagodas. We attended a short, intoned
+Buddhist service in one of the temples. In another, Wat Cheng, we had
+our fortunes told in the following manner: we each drew from a vase a
+long, narrow slip of paper with a number on it, then we proceeded to a
+priest, robed in yellow silk, presented our number, paid a fee, and in
+return received a pink paper containing a great many hieroglyphics,
+which our guide was able to interpret. Each fortune was rather peculiar
+and diversified in details. We, however, did not attach any importance
+to what was told us.</p>
+
+<p>The roofs of some of the Wats are very handsome, the parti-colored tiles
+of which they are composed adding to their effect, whilst the pointed
+upturned gables, a feature peculiar to Siamese architecture, also added
+in no small degree to their picturesqueness.</p>
+
+<p>All the principal Wats are accessible to visitors, but it is necessary
+to have with you a guide who can explain the different features.
+Sometimes the priests have a knowledge of English. Many of the Wats are
+suffering greatly from the ravages of time, and some are almost ruined.
+Of course this applies to the more remote temples, those in the vicinity
+of the palace being beautifully cared for. The King and other members of
+the royal family spend vast sums upon the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span> temples; nobles and wealthy
+Siamese likewise contribute largely to the funds, but all their efforts
+are not sufficient to keep the numberless places in proper condition.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image100.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The Klong Canal at Bangkok" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Klong_Canal_at_Bangkok" id="The_Klong_Canal_at_Bangkok"></a>The Klong Canal at Bangkok</span></div>
+
+<p>The King, who is now the sole reigning Buddhist monarch, takes the
+greatest interest in the maintenance of his faith and everything
+belonging to it. He is an ardent Pali scholar, and has established a
+college for the study of that ancient language. Nearly every State
+function which takes place within the palace walls is associated with
+some religious service, and the Buddhist faith seems to be deeply rooted
+in the heart of the Siamese people. The sacred books used in the temples
+are of palm-leaf, similar in style to those seen in Burma; a large
+number of women are employed in a factory for their manufacture, while
+many men are also there for the purpose of engraving characters on the
+palm-leaf with a set of special implements.</p>
+
+<p>It had been a perfect afternoon, and the shores of the broad river Menam
+(meaning "Mother of Waters") were more than usually interesting on
+account of the novel architectural display, temples alternating with
+buildings of various descriptions, most of them gleaming white in the
+sun. We made a detour into the Klong Canal, which led out of the river
+some miles from our starting-point. Soon we had an entirely different
+type of scenery, similar to the jungle; dense<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span> vegetation came quite to
+the edge of the canal. In places there would be two, three, or even more
+Siamese houses built high on piles, with thatched roofs and sides and an
+open front, the home life of the inmates being distinctly seen through
+the open front. Of course our launch served to collect all the curious
+in groups, from infants to grandparents. Ever and anon tiny boats passed
+us, the rowers singing or twanging some kind of an instrument with that
+happy unconsciousness of responsibility which seems to characterize the
+Siamese, reminding one of the days in Rangoon.</p>
+
+<p>We came at last to a point where navigation was impeded because of a
+large vessel aground, and after skilful man&#339;uvring and some minutes'
+delay, our launch proceeded on the homeward way. Night was upon us
+before we left the canal, and as the twilight faded, the gleaming of the
+lights in the little homes put a finishing touch to the picture. Once on
+the broad river, the shore effect was more wonderful than by day, and we
+lost all note of time until we were told at the hotel landing that it
+was half-past seven o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning we left, at half-past six, for an excursion by
+rail and river to the old capital, Ayuthia. The ride of three hours in a
+car presented no special features. But we then took a steam launch and
+proceeded some miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span> farther in order to visit the ruins of the old
+palace and the elephants' kraal. Skirting in and out, we saw about three
+miles of houseboats on sampans. This was a most interesting spectacle,
+all kinds of traffic being carried on, some space aboard being reserved
+for the family. There were boats for the sale of flowers and vegetables,
+others for household commodities, and some had crockery and glass and
+baskets. We then visited two temples. The ruins cover an immense space
+of ground and are a fine field for arch&aelig;ologists, but we had no means of
+classifying them and our guide was not scientific. Many of the most
+interesting relics are surrounded by a dense jungle which makes them
+difficult of access, but one receives a certain impression of the
+ancient grandeur of the place.</p>
+
+<p>Tradition states that the custom of wearing the hair short by Siamese
+women dates from the days when Ayuthia was a capital. It is said that
+during one of the political invasions by the Burmans most of the men
+were absent in the harvest fields. The women accordingly cut their hair,
+took bows and arrows and spears, and manned the city walls. The Burmans,
+thinking they were men, were astonished at finding such a strong
+garrison and retired, much discomfited. It is also said that the women
+then adopted the same dress as the men, the panung, a garment something
+like the sarong but drawn up in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span> middle, front and back. The cutting
+of the hair and the peculiar garb make it difficult to tell the Siamese
+women from the men. The style is distinctive with the women, as all of
+the surrounding people&mdash;the Burmans, Laos, and Malays&mdash;wear the sarong.</p>
+
+<p>A walk of ten minutes from Wang Chang brought us to the famous
+elephants' kraal, or enclosure, into which the elephants are driven to
+be captured and tamed. This is a massive structure of teak logs, with a
+kind of V-shaped passage leading to it. When a hunt is to occur, the
+places frequented by the elephants are noted weeks beforehand, and they
+are gradually surrounded by some hundreds of men mounted upon trained
+elephants and also afoot, the elephants being gradually driven towards
+the entrance of the kraal. Within, there is an exciting scene, as the
+ponderous, awkward animals find themselves pressed onwards <i>en masse</i>
+through the massive gate into the enclosure. Once inside, they are
+dexterously captured by long leg ropes, whilst their struggles are kept
+from assuming dangerous proportions by trained elephants which range up
+alongside of them and aid their masters in every possible way,
+apparently taking quite a delight in the task. These hunts occur at
+regular intervals, and are generally attended by a large number of
+foreign visitors. Accidents, even deaths, sometimes happen,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span> but these
+are not frequent. We regretted we were not in Siam at the proper season
+to witness such a scene.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image101.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The famous Elephants' Kraal" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_famous_Elephants39_Kraal" id="The_famous_Elephants39_Kraal"></a>The famous Elephants' Kraal</span></div>
+
+<p>After a picnic luncheon, we proceeded down the river, stopping at
+different points to visit temples of varying interest; one was
+particularly noteworthy, as it contained a very large Buddha in the back
+of the temple and a row of brass Buddhas around three of its sides, some
+of them in fine repouss&eacute; work. At Ban Pa In we left the launch to take
+the train. Here the King has two palaces.</p>
+
+<p>Ban Pa In is on an island in the Menam River. One handsome palace is in
+the European style, and another is of a pure Chinese pattern. There is a
+modern temple of Gothic style, built fifteen years ago. Near the palace
+a tower affords a fine view.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Bangkok late in the afternoon, feeling well pleased with
+our day's excursion.</p>
+
+<p>Fifty years ago Bangkok had none of the public buildings to be seen
+to-day,&mdash;perhaps a mile of good road and streets in only fair condition;
+now there are numerous drives and perfect communication to every point
+of the city. There are twelve miles of electric railway line, soon to be
+extended, while leading out from Bangkok are hundreds of miles of
+well-equipped railways. Jinrikishas are used in Bangkok, but with
+foreigners carriages are preferred. The native<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span> street, called Sampeng,
+is really a Chinese-Siamese combination, and might be termed a bazar on
+the order of those visited in previous cities. The streets, filled with
+strong odors, are small lanes running parallel with the river, and to me
+were less interesting than previous bazars, the venders seeming to be
+apathetic and having less variety of goods. This impression may,
+however, have been due to the midday hour, for the natives,
+understanding the climate, are only alert during the mornings and
+evenings. The season may also have lessened the dash and excitement of
+the street. We were told there were quite as many tribes and
+nationalities represented in Bangkok as in Singapore, and such a mixture
+usually means novelty. The dress and undress in Siam afforded variety,
+the men and women nearly alike, for, as stated in the description in
+connection with Ayuthia, the women have short hair and wear the panung
+precisely like the men.</p>
+
+<p>The guides in Siam are not very competent, and could give us only
+ordinary information, so there was little for us to do but to speculate
+on certain points.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;">
+<img src="images/image102.jpg" width="336" height="500" alt="Tower of Royal Palace at Ban-Pa-In" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Tower_of_Royal_Palace_at_Ban-Pa-In" id="Tower_of_Royal_Palace_at_Ban-Pa-In"></a>Tower of Royal Palace at Ban-Pa-In</span></div>
+
+<p>There are several interesting towns which are within a few hours'
+railway communication with Bangkok, but we could only read of them, as
+none of them had hotels or even rest houses for the convenience of
+tourists. This state of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span>things will be remedied as soon as it is
+realized that the outside world is interested in this far-away kingdom,
+the first tourist party having visited Siam only two years ago. We were
+hampered before reaching this country by the lack of a guide-book (as we
+had been in Java), Murray's enlightening knowledge having extended only
+through India, Burma, and Ceylon; but after our arrival in Bangkok we
+found some local guide-books, from which we learned of the towns alluded
+to.</p>
+
+<p>Petchaburi seemed one of the most interesting on account of the
+wonderful caves and temples, a description of which I will give in
+brief, in order to prove that Siam, like the other countries previously
+visited, has unusual attractions along these lines. The railway to
+Petchaburi was opened in 1902, and the journey takes five and a half
+hours from Bangkok. It is an old historic town of much importance and
+the centre of a very populous district. It is picturesquely situated on
+both banks of the stream, curving seaward at the foot of some wooded
+hills. One of the hills is crowned with the royal palace and another
+with a handsome temple. The palace is a magnificent edifice and commands
+wide views on all sides, the sea being clearly seen from the
+observatory. The hill on which is situated the temple, and its
+companion, are known as Kow Wang.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span></p><p>Descending a well-constructed, if somewhat precipitous, staircase for
+what must be fully a hundred feet, we find ourselves in a cave from
+which a very spacious archway leads into a huge vaulted chamber. The
+first impression is one of acute astonishment, by no means lessened,
+even after one becomes accustomed to the dim light inside. By rough
+calculation the cave is about two hundred yards long by one hundred
+wide. The floor is paved throughout with tiles, and at every turn there
+is an image of Buddha. At one end there is a statue fully fifteen feet
+high in a niche fronting the entrance, and near by is one twelve feet
+high. In a wide passage, leading to another extensive cave, is a statue
+of the sleeping Buddha, apparently about fifteen feet long, and in the
+semi-gloom which surrounds him, suggestive of eternal calm and peace. In
+this cave are more Buddhas, sitting, standing, and reclining.</p>
+
+<p>Thence, on through a somewhat low and dark tunnel, we go to yet another
+cave, from which a short passage leads upward to what was the original
+dark entrance. This is now impassable, as the stairs have collapsed.
+Many curious stalactites are in clusters, some like inverted lilies and
+others like canopies or umbrellas; they are of all sizes, ranging from a
+few inches to several feet in diameter and some are tinted in various
+shades. The caves are well worth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span> visiting, and a view of them will
+adequately repay the time and expense of the journey from Bangkok. In
+the centre of the town and near a quaint wooden bridge stands Wat
+Mahathal, conspicuous by reason of its unfinished brick tower, on the
+summit of which a couple of trees are growing; a quadrangle surrounding
+this contains one hundred and ninety-five images of Buddha, which are of
+interest if only because of the different expressions of their
+countenances.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;">
+<img src="images/image103.jpg" width="336" height="501" alt="A Siamese girl" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_Siamese_girl" id="A_Siamese_girl"></a>A Siamese girl</span></div>
+
+<p>The American Presbyterian Mission has a commodious hospital, pleasantly
+situated on the river bank, which enjoys a high reputation among the
+natives. There are two distinct tribes of Laos inhabiting this district.
+The women, on account of their peculiar headgear and jackets of dark
+cloth and short sarong, are interesting. The cultivation of rice is the
+prevailing industry in this district.</p>
+
+<p>Judging by the number of Siamese feasts and festivals there are in the
+calendar, a holiday must always be in order. The Siamese official year
+opens April 1st, and about that time, a date regulated by the moon, the
+New Year holiday occurs. This is not celebrated quite as vigorously as
+it formerly was, but the country people make it the occasion for
+performing some great deed of merit, and this proves a time of harvest
+for the priests. Every one wears his best clothes, a special kind of
+cake is served,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span> and the temples are thronged. Gambling laws are set
+aside, and in every house may be seen some game of chance. On the
+evening of the second day, for the festival continues through a period
+of three, all the guns along the palace walls are fired thirty-six
+times.</p>
+
+<p>The Astronomical New Year soon follows, when the images of Buddha are
+sprinkled with water, while the priests hold a festival at the royal
+palace. Priests and aged people are presented with gifts.</p>
+
+<p>When the sixth Siamese moon is at its full, the birth, inspiration, and
+death of the Lord Buddha are observed with great veneration; good deeds
+prompt every one, alms are given to the poor, and fine robes sent to the
+priests.</p>
+
+<p>Twice a year the ceremonial drinking of the water of allegiance takes
+place at the royal palace. The princes, nobles, and principal Government
+officials assemble, drink, and sprinkle their foreheads with water in
+which various weapons have been dipped. Appropriate religious services
+are also held. The principal European officials also conform to this
+custom, which usually occurs in the months of March, April, and
+September.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image104.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="A royal barge at Bangkok" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_royal_barge_at_Bangkok" id="A_royal_barge_at_Bangkok"></a>A royal barge at Bangkok</span></div>
+
+<p>The ploughing ceremony takes place in May and marks the beginning of the
+planting season. The King is represented by the Minister of Agriculture,
+who goes with a procession to the selected <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span>spot, and, after some
+religious service, takes hold of a plough which is drawn by two gayly
+bedecked oxen. After scratching the ground for about an hour, four
+ladies of the royal household, attired in ancient costumes, sow various
+kinds of seed carried in gilded baskets. The grain thus scattered is
+considered sacred, and there is a wild scramble for it at the close.
+Many signs and symbols are attached to various parts of the ceremony,
+which usually takes place at Dusit Park.</p>
+
+<p>A swinging festival is very unique and interesting, but is quite
+complicated and has to be seen to be understood. The swing is very high
+and I think is stationary.</p>
+
+<p>Another ceremony is the giving of priests' robes. This lasts a month,
+and the King or his deputies visit every Wat in the kingdom. At this
+time the boat racing at the Pakman Wat occurs, and the royal barge and
+State boats are all brought out for the occasion. At another festival,
+the Loy Krathong (all these celebrations have their Siamese names), the
+river Menam and the canals present a gala appearance, being dotted at
+night with thousands of miniature ships, rafts, and boats, each
+brilliantly lighted and bearing offerings to the goddess of water. This
+festival occurs in October and November.</p>
+
+<p>But the greatest occasion of the year is the King's birthday, September
+20th, the three following<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span> days being included in the festival.
+Everywhere the city is a blaze of red and white bunting, and at night it
+is brilliant with myriad lights, presenting a fairylike scene. About
+this time the Foreign Office gives its annual ball, a brilliant occasion
+for which invitations are in great demand.</p>
+
+<p>Siamese ceremonies are quite as peculiar as their feasts. The habit of
+cutting the long tuft of hair, which is left on children's heads until
+they have attained their growth, is very striking, and at the royal
+palace very elaborate preparations are made, which include religious
+ceremonies and the use of a golden jewelled instrument resembling
+shears.</p>
+
+<p>In Siam cremation is the general way of disposing of the dead. Among the
+wealthy classes the body is embalmed and kept sometimes three years
+before the ceremony, which is conducted with great pomp and on a very
+expensive plan, gifts being distributed among all the attendant friends
+and sums of money given to the priests and to the poor. The Chinese, of
+which there are large numbers, are usually buried, but in case of a
+mixed marriage the children are cremated.</p>
+
+<p>There are many superstitions. A peculiar one in court circles is the
+wearing of a different-colored panung each day of the week,&mdash;on Sunday,
+red; Monday, cream; Tuesday, purple;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span> and so on,&mdash;for good luck. Another
+is the use of buttons adorned with representations of animals,
+symbolical of the year in which certain persons are born,&mdash;this also for
+good luck. The tendency naturally leads to great respect being shown to
+fortune-tellers. The youth of Siam are, however, it is said, outgrowing
+this superstitious condition.</p>
+
+<p>One time-honored custom is, however, in greater vogue than ever, and
+that is massage, which is employed by all classes.</p>
+
+<p>While the foreign residents of Bangkok are not large in number, they
+have made their impress felt, and in no way more markedly than in the
+amusements which they have inaugurated. There are sixteen organizations,
+many of them recreation clubs for golf, tennis, and cricket, but there
+are also a literary club, a dramatic club, a Philharmonic Society, and a
+gymnasium. Bangkok has a good library, containing books of travel,
+reference, and fiction.</p>
+
+<p>Racing is popular and is generally attended by the King, who gives gold
+cups for prizes. Hunting is in great favor, for game can be found near
+Bangkok, and at not a remote distance lurk the rhinoceros, buffalo,
+tiger, leopard, deer, antelope, hare, and crocodile. Elephants abound,
+but may not be shot.</p>
+
+<p>Bangkok, as a city, becomes distinctively individual as one learns more
+of it; for instance,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span> the telegraph and the telephone lines are
+controlled by the postal department and are working satisfactorily under
+this r&eacute;gime. As early as 1902, important fiscal changes were introduced:
+one was the closing of the mints to free silver, and the other an
+issuance of paper currency notes. The first meant the practical adoption
+of a gold standard. I cite these examples as showing still further
+progressive methods.</p>
+
+<p>There are holiday resorts on the east coast of the gulf, where Bangkok
+residents can retire for a change of air. These have been mentioned.
+There are also remoter places of great interest farther in the interior
+and in the mountains, which will soon be available for travellers.</p>
+
+<p>Rathburi is an old walled town of importance. Near here, the French
+Catholic priests have a mission house and seminary. The American
+Presbyterian Mission owns a fine hospital, and two missionary families
+are stationed here.</p>
+
+<p>Phrapatoon is the seat of a large pagoda which is visible for many miles
+around. It was formerly gilded and was built in style similar to the
+pagodas seen in Burma.</p>
+
+<p>With all the available information about the kingdom of Siam, one cannot
+but feel that it has a future full of possibilities; certain it is that
+the measures already inaugurated by the King are made for the welfare of
+his people.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span></p><p>The tropical growth of Siam impressed us only slightly, as we had just
+come from Java, "the garden of the earth." Otherwise we should have been
+enthusiastic over the beauty of the landscape and the luxurious growth
+of trees and plants.</p>
+
+<p>There was no special programme on our last morning in Bangkok, and so I
+wandered around for final impressions and for photographs. I had an
+amusing little talk with what proved to be the court photographer. Among
+other notables of the realm, he showed me a picture of the Crown Prince,
+whereupon I innocently asked him how many sons there were. He replied,
+"Sixty-seven," and that he had taken all their photographs. The reply
+was rather startling, and I impulsively asked, "And how many daughters?"
+He looked blank and admitted that he did not know. Of course I
+understood that the family relations of the King were modelled on
+strictly Oriental lines, and that he had three legal wives, the number
+prescribed by law; but I was unprepared for a statement that showed a
+daughter in a royal household to be such a nonentity as the above
+implied.</p>
+
+<p>When I visited the market, I saw an unlimited number of fruits as well
+as vegetables; cocoanuts, plantains, bananas, durians, pineapples,
+bread-fruit, jack-fruit, dates, almonds, pomaloes, mangoes (fifty
+varieties), mangosteens,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span> custard apples, limes, oranges, tamarinds,
+figs, and papayas, all are to be found here in their proper season. I
+did not even know the names of some, but never again do I hope to see
+such a display.</p>
+
+<p>There were fewer flowers than I had been led to expect, but the flora of
+Siam is said to be particularly rich in unusual varieties of orchids,
+which are found flourishing abundantly even in the jungles, and a visit
+would well repay a collector. A person can find a rich field in Siam
+along many lines of investigation.</p>
+
+<p>We left Bangkok in the afternoon on the steamer <i>Nuen-tung</i> for a five
+days' return trip to Singapore. I have already alluded to the "sand bar"
+which is an obstacle to navigation; hence it is that the heavy freight
+vessels anchor fifty miles distant at Koh-si-Chang, but I learned later
+that this obstacle could have been removed by dredging, had not the
+authorities declined to take any action, as the "bar" furnished a safe
+means of defence should war ever occur.</p>
+
+<p>We saw various pagodas as we advanced; the most noted example was in the
+village of Pakman. As viewed through masses of foliage, it reminded us
+of the trip on the Irrawaddy River in Burma. A cargo of rice was taken
+on at Koh-si-Chang, and we did not leave there until eleven, the day
+following. A group of islands similarly called was a feature of the
+trip. It was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span> cooler when we entered the Gulf of Siam, and the China
+Sea was favorably smooth. The conditions of the steamer were unchanged,
+but they had grown familiar to us, and even the cockroaches no longer
+intimidated me.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image105.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The collier quay at Singapore" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_collier_quay_at_Singapore" id="The_collier_quay_at_Singapore"></a>The collier quay at Singapore</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Singapore" id="Singapore"></a>Singapore</span>: We arrived at Singapore early in the morning, and for a third
+time viewed the shores; on this trip we went to the Raffles Hotel for a
+brief sojourn. The place is airy, capacious, and semi-Oriental, and
+reminded us of Colombo, as did the temperature, for although but two
+degrees from the equator, the air was like June at home, and without any
+of the chill in the evening that we sometimes experience; so it was a
+great pleasure to sit out in the corridor-like veranda and listen to the
+music. It was all so contrary to our expectations, for we had been told
+fearful tales about heat, insects, and general discomfort on the Malay
+Peninsula, or on what they term the "Straits Settlements."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Johore" id="Johore"></a>Johore</span>: To commence with, we devoted the first afternoon to an excursion
+to Johore, the capital of an independent Malay province, whose Sultan
+reigns with pomp and ceremony. After a railway ride, we took the ferry
+across the river, where a scene of loveliness awaited us. The city is
+unpretentious in appearance, but our afternoon excursion revealed to us
+a varied<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span> landscape with a tropical growth. We visited a plantation
+where india rubber, one of the chief articles of export, is cultivated;
+then a large Mohammedan mosque, finely located on an eminence. The tiger
+house on this particular day held but one inmate, who showed no desire
+to devour us.</p>
+
+<p>The grounds surrounding the palace are as spacious and as well cared for
+as a botanical garden, with the brilliant flowers, blossoming trees, and
+a great number of red sealing-wax palms. The palace is luxuriantly
+embowered in vines and trees. Johore is a famous gambling-place, but the
+"parlors" were deserted on this afternoon, and we could see only the
+fine furnishings in carved teakwood.</p>
+
+<p>The stay in Johore ended with tea at a hotel. Here we saw the real
+Sultan entertaining a party of Europeans. He looked young and was
+dressed in an immaculate English style, quite unlike the striped calico
+suits displayed by royalty at Jeypore, India. He came in a French
+automobile, and is said to pass half his time in Singapore, being fond
+of society. We arrived in Singapore for dinner, and during the evening a
+delightful surprise awaited me in the appearance of two Milwaukee
+friends.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image106.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The Sultan's Palace at Johore" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Sultan39s_Palace_at_Johore" id="The_Sultan39s_Palace_at_Johore"></a>The Sultan's Palace at Johore</span></div>
+
+<p>The following day much ground was covered, for, by invitation of
+Cincinnati friends, I took a motor ride of about forty miles amidst
+undreamed-of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span>beauty, both near the city and in the surrounding
+country. There were streets lined with villas whose gardens were full of
+a luxuriant growth of shrubs and flowers; some of them had the quaintest
+high-arched gateways, with coats of arms and animals carved in stone on
+each side of the entrance. The Botanical Gardens were very interesting,
+as was also the park, miles from the city, and laid out around the
+reservoir, which furnishes all the water supply. We went on and on until
+we reached the "Gap," where a mountain view awaited us. We visited the
+shops and bazars before luncheon, and in the afternoon all of us
+explored the native Malay quarter. The dress of the women was unlike any
+other seen in the Orient. The Chinese seemed to be the real residents,
+for everywhere they prevailed in large numbers.</p>
+
+<p>In whatever direction we went, new features revealed themselves, and we
+commended the wisdom of Sir Stamford Raffles in founding this island
+city with its wonderful harbor, where shipping from almost all parts of
+the world congregates, making the active sights at the quay at once
+novel and business-like. Indians, Sikhs, Malays, and other nationalities
+are represented, but the Chinese perform all the menial labor required.</p>
+
+<p>The coolie is a character,&mdash;patient, hard-working, uncomplaining,
+supplying a demand<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span> throughout the Orient, made necessary, as we have
+seen, by the indolence of the Burmese and of the Malays, to mention only
+two examples.</p>
+
+<p>Singapore is very gay in the season, and a centre for the wealth of the
+Far East; indeed, sultans and nabobs consider it a veritable Paris.</p>
+
+<p>The last morning of our stay, I went around in a jinrikisha, and my man
+was as fleet as a horse. I had an experience trying to find so simple an
+article as a paper of pins, visiting shop after shop. Evidently they
+have not learned the ways of the American department store!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Hong-Kong" id="Hong-Kong"></a>Hong-Kong</span>: We sailed in the late afternoon on the steamer <i>Moltke</i> for a
+five days' voyage to Hong-Kong, with a feeling that we had experienced
+no discomfort but much pleasure in the seemingly maligned city of
+Singapore.</p>
+
+<p>We passed the Strait of Malacca without any untoward excitement, and we
+steamed along pleasantly with a group of passengers who looked well-bred
+and agreeable; as time went on, our first impression of them was
+corroborated. A delightful feature aboard was music every evening in the
+salon, mostly singing. There was a service on Sunday, both for the
+first-class and second-class passengers. We soon entered the China Sea,
+which was to be our sole waterway to Hong-Kong, fifteen hundred miles
+distant, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span> rather to the Straits of Formosa, which guard the China
+Sea on the north, as the Strait of Malacca does on the south. We reached
+port on the morning of March 20th, and the approach&mdash;past many islands,
+along the fine harbor, with its high rocky shores, towering mountains in
+the background, and a terraced city in the foreground&mdash;gave us a new
+sensation. We landed at Kowloon and were taken across to Hong-Kong
+(which, properly and legally speaking, is Victoria).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image107.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="A general view of Hong-Kong" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_general_view_of_Hong-Kong" id="A_general_view_of_Hong-Kong"></a>A general view of Hong-Kong</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image108.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="The public gardens in Hong-Kong" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_public_gardens_in_Hong-Kong" id="The_public_gardens_in_Hong-Kong"></a>The public gardens in Hong-Kong</span></div>
+
+<p>Fronting the landing is a long street of fine stone business houses,
+which extend tier after tier from the shore and in a way represent the
+city's commercial importance.</p>
+
+<p>The Hong-Kong Hotel is situated in the business centre; although under
+English management, the service was entirely Chinese, and at luncheon we
+were confronted by an array of waiters with braids around their heads
+and wearing long blue garments made like aprons; the ensemble was indeed
+most depressing. The menu presented a curious feature, the courses being
+numbered, and you were expected to point to the number, but woe to any
+one who wished an egg boiled four minutes or a piece of rare roast!</p>
+
+<p>Hong-Kong is on the north shore of the island, and dampness prevails
+even when it does not rain (there is an unusual amount of rain); in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span>
+consequence, great care has to be observed by the residents, both of
+their homes and clothing. Yet, notwithstanding this and other
+disabilities, the English have made the island "blossom like a rose."
+Engineering enterprise has converted the mountain-side into an
+attractive residence centre. A railway leading to the Peak (the highest
+point in the landscape) is not only a convenience, but a pleasure on
+account of the magnificent view afforded along the ascent. A little
+lower is an attractive Peak Hotel, which is popular with residents. At
+every point on the heights there are features to impress one, as we
+found the afternoon of our arrival, when we took jinrikishas to visit
+Happy Valley, where are located the public garden and the Protestant
+cemetery, which is also laid out like a park. The Catholic cemetery is
+near by and has the same general features. Happy Valley is also the
+scene for various sports, such as golf, tennis, croquet, and racing, in
+which Hong-Kong abounds.</p>
+
+<p>The afternoon of our visit, we walked about to various points, enjoying
+the views, and commending the perfection which had been wrought since
+1842, when China ceded the island to Great Britain. Realizing that
+Hong-Kong was destined to be a world port, England some years since
+leased a portion of the mainland from China for further harbor
+facilities. This strip<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span> extends back thirty miles and is held for a
+term of ninety-nine years. The city retains its former name, Kowloon,
+but its business facilities are all under English management. The miles
+of docks, warehouses, shipyards, and machine shops are another proof of
+the wisdom and forethought with which Great Britain carries out her
+plans for colonizing alien places.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image109.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="A typical street in a Chinese city" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_typical_street_in_a_Chinese_city" id="A_typical_street_in_a_Chinese_city"></a>A typical street in a Chinese city</span></div>
+
+<p>Hong-Kong was destined to be our headquarters for nearly two weeks; it
+is a convenient point from which to make excursions. On the first Sunday
+morning I attended service at the English Cathedral; the building is on
+the heights, surrounded by a well-kept close and overlooking a fine
+residence portion of the city. I was conveyed to church in a sedan chair
+on account of the steep ascent. During our excursion to the Peak, we
+first took a railway chair, then a sedan chair; leaving that, we had a
+long climb before we reached the summit, where there is a flagstaff.
+What a view was before us&mdash;mountains in the distance, the harbor and the
+islands, shipping of all kinds, and roofs of every description!
+Descending, we had tea at the Peak Hotel. Another afternoon we went in a
+launch to Kowloon. We took a jinrikisha for a general exploration of the
+old Chinese city, and aside from what has been indicated, we went
+through the native quarter, saw several temples, visited a Chinese
+school,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span> and ascended the high wall for a view. Much of the wall is
+unimpaired. A drive in the country followed, and we saw many tiny
+Chinese gardens and a number of cemeteries.</p>
+
+<p>The jinrikisha ride to Aberdeen, a fishing village some miles distant,
+proved delightful. The roadway was sometimes close to the water's edge;
+then we ascended and looked down over low cliffs, with coves ever and
+anon dotting the shore. It reminded me continually of the ride from
+Sorrento to Amalfi, and again of the Upper Corniche drive from Mentone
+to Nice.</p>
+
+<p>Early on Wednesday, March 25th, we left on the steamer <i>Keung Shang</i> for
+a visit to Canton, ninety miles distant. Leaving the commercial city and
+a fleet of shipping vessels behind us, we had some miles of lake
+scenery; then we had islands and the coast line beyond. Soon we were in
+Pearl River, and the surroundings grew more picturesque,&mdash;now a little
+village near the water's edge with a mountain behind, and then more
+islands and more mountain ranges. We had a glimpse of Castle Peak, two
+thousand feet high. We then passed an immense prominence, called the
+Half-Way Rock. At a place known as Tiger's Mouth, fortifications were
+seen. The country soon becomes flat, with rice fields and fruit farms;
+we saw the Whampoa Pagoda and some miles farther on the Honam Pagoda.
+Near Canton, we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span> passed another pagoda, and then the white spire of the
+French cathedral gleamed out, and our goal was reached. It is a most
+interesting river trip, and is unfortunately more often taken at night,
+in order to economize time.</p>
+
+<p>The first impression of Canton is one of noise, a fearful din rising and
+falling in a kind of cadence, and seeming to proceed largely from an
+immense flotilla of boats extending a long way, tied, in a majority of
+cases, seven and eight rows deep&mdash;craft of all kinds, sampans, junks,
+rice boats, freight, each with its quota of humanity, for this is a
+veritable floating city, with a life all its own, and almost wholly
+independent of the Canton proper which we were about to visit and which
+numbered a hundred thousand souls.</p>
+
+<p>We had not anticipated much enjoyment in Canton, having read of the dirt
+and smells, but we had not expected to be deafened at our very entrance,
+and I think for the time being it dulled the consciousness of this
+wonderful spectacle of a floating independent city just at the door of a
+city whose name is famous the world over.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Canton" id="Canton"></a>Canton</span>, <i>March 25th</i>: We were soon conveyed up a back canal to the
+Shameen (the name of the city of foreign concession), where our
+quarters, the Hotel Victoria, were located. My room was situated on the
+ground floor, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> gallery opening on a large garden or court, abloom
+with trees and flowers. There was no key to the door, and strangers were
+all about me, but the complacent manner in which I met this fact caused
+me to realize that my courage was greater than when at Jeypore in
+far-away India.</p>
+
+<p>The first afternoon, a jinrikisha ride convinced us that we were in the
+most congested city on the face of the globe; a city of streets so
+narrow that two chairs could hardly pass each other; a city of strange
+sights and more violent contrasts than any we had yet seen. And the
+smells!&mdash;the English language does not contain words strong enough to
+describe them. In the bazar portion of the city we were diverted by the
+box-like shops, with their open fronts, and filled with curios, works in
+jade, wood, and unique articles of feather jewelry.</p>
+
+<p>Then the wonderful Chinese signs! We had noticed and admired them in
+Hong-Kong, but in size and beauty they now far excelled anything of the
+kind we had seen before. They extended from an upper story, for these
+bazars were many of them on the ground floor of four-story apartments,
+each story having its front gallery where one could witness diversified
+scenes of family life. The signs are about a half a yard wide and are
+decorated from top to bottom, with gold and brilliant colors, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span>
+Chinese letters forming a large feature of the display. These signs
+(sometimes five grouped together) are wonderfully effective, as they
+sway back and forth in the wind, and they are a partial indication of
+the Chinese industry which prevails.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image110.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="A five-story pagoda" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_five-story_pagoda" id="A_five-story_pagoda"></a>A five-story pagoda</span></div>
+
+<p>There were larger shops in better locations in the city, and here we
+found the grass linen embroidered articles and the crape for which
+Canton is famous.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning, we departed on a more serious sight-seeing
+expedition, to include all manner of typical Cantonese places, but
+before I had been out an hour I decided that the description of one
+temple only would not adequately convey a true impression, for
+everywhere we went things seemed unreal and grotesque, but interesting.
+First, we entered what our guide termed the Medicine Temple, not so very
+large, where on the opposite side of the room huge idols were placed
+before all manner of receptacles for holding medicine; next a Buddhist
+Temple, very inferior to any we had seen; then a Confucian temple, plain
+like the majority of them; while a Shinto temple had the characteristic
+torii before it. This latter I will describe when Japan, the land of the
+torii, is the topic.</p>
+
+<p>The Five-story Pagoda is quite imposing, as it is placed on the city
+wall and commands a wide view. It is the custom for parties to go there<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span>
+and take their picnic luncheon, and our guide had planned for us to do
+this, but unfortunately the pagoda was being repaired and visitors were
+not permitted. So we proceeded to a large building on an eminence, which
+was furnished like a club house and was evidently for public use. There
+was a conventional garden in front, affording a very extended view.</p>
+
+<p>A visit to the so-called "Home of the Dead" followed; this was unlike
+anything ever experienced before. We entered an enclosure, laid out
+partly as a garden; there were walks leading around, and some of them
+had low rooms at the sides, with open fronts, while on a plinth rested
+coffins of different styles; the bodies within were awaiting burial.
+Flowers were scattered here and there, and I believe fruit, food, and
+offerings of various kinds also.</p>
+
+<p>We next visited the place of execution, which was ghastly with its
+associations, and the executioner swung the large instrument around, as
+the guide explained the process of decapitating heads. But fortunately
+for our nerves the place then contained only long rows of jars from a
+pottery near by.</p>
+
+<p>The Nambo Prison proved to be a wooden affair, gates and all, but the
+poor unkept, unwashed victims who glared at us through the bars looked
+too sickly and emaciated to offer any resistance, even had they a mind
+to escape.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image111.jpg" width="500" height="339" alt="Temple of the Five Genii at Canton" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Temple_of_the_Five_Genii_at_Canton" id="Temple_of_the_Five_Genii_at_Canton"></a>Temple of the Five Genii at Canton</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span></p><p>By far the most interesting place we visited was the Temple of the Five
+Hundred Genii, with large brass gods seated on opposite sides of a long
+hall,&mdash;the Temple of the Five Genii, and the ancestral temple of a
+certain royal family of China. We first entered a large enclosure, then
+a goodly-sized audience room, and next the temple proper. The three
+walls of this room (as I remember them) were fitted up like an immense
+cabinet, with rows of drawers, each supposed to contain some document
+relating to that particular ancestor. There was one upright vacant space
+which the guide said would be filled when that branch of the family
+died.</p>
+
+<p>We were here without a "Murray," as in Java and Siam, so we graciously
+accepted such information as our most intelligent guide could give us,
+who, by the way, was the original guide of Canton, two sons now
+following in his footsteps, for the father in his later years rarely
+accompanies parties. He is a gentleman, affable, well dressed in Chinese
+brocade, and less unresponsive than are most Chinese; it was indeed a
+pleasure to be "conducted" by him.</p>
+
+<p>The Hall of Examination is open to the public only once in three years,
+when students of high-school grade are examined for entrance to a
+university course, eighty-seven of the applicants being chosen. The hall
+has, on three sides, little box-like slates about six by eight<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span> feet,
+furnished with only a plank on which the student must sit and sleep. He
+is shut in there for three days, food being given him on entering for
+the entire time. This torture is repeated three times, so that nine days
+of purgatory have to be endured before the goal is reached.</p>
+
+<p>The aristocracy of Canton is not one of wealth, but of intellectual
+honors; many of the Chinamen who are seen wearing horn-rimmed spectacles
+are either of a literary turn of mind or are attempting to pass as such.</p>
+
+<p>Seen from the city wall or any very high point, Canton seems a city of
+roofs, with scarcely an opening and not a vestige of green. The narrow
+streets are many of them covered with awnings. It is a city of great
+color, the brilliant signs, the covered palanquin chairs, the costumes
+of the wealthy Chinese, all contributing to the riotous effect. It is a
+city of very wide contrasts, for rich and poor jostle each other on the
+streets and their homes are often side by side.</p>
+
+<p>Canton is, after all, even with the noise, smells, and dirt included, a
+fascinating city, and while one would not care to remain long in it, one
+should never omit it.</p>
+
+<p>Shameen, the island of concession, where are located two hotels,
+consulates, churches, some shops, and the homes of all the foreign
+residents, is a most pleasing place. Long avenues of trees are seen on
+every side, the grounds of many of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span> the homes sloping to the river,
+which of itself adds to the beauty; the water is spanned by two iron
+bridges which are locked every night; everywhere a general air of
+refinement prevails. This very Shameen furnishes the greatest contrast
+of all to hoary, venerable old Canton.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image112.jpg" width="500" height="339" alt="The San Paulo Fa&ccedil;ade" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_San_Paulo_Faccedilade" id="The_San_Paulo_Faccedilade"></a>The San Paulo Fa&ccedil;ade</span></div>
+
+<p>It is claimed that Canton's origin dates from three hundred years before
+the Christian era. The city was then encircled by a kind of stockade
+made of bamboo and river mud, and it resembled a camp in most of its
+details. A thousand years and Canton is alluded to as a commercial city,
+with a special commissioner appointed by the Government to superintend
+foreign trade. At an early date the great pass was constructed through
+the Mei-hung range of mountains, and this proves to be one of the
+principal trade-routes in use at the present time. Another thousand
+years and we have the city of to-day, with its peculiar conditions, its
+fascinations. Surely its age commands our respect. Its people, seemingly
+impassive, are a subject for study, as are all the Chinese. Will the
+Western mind ever be able to understand this? I have a theory that
+behind the impassiveness there is a certain kind of responsiveness if it
+can be reached, but thus far I have only been able to test it upon house
+servants in California and those who have served us at different points
+in our trip. I have met persons who share my belief,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span> their opinion
+being based on an acquaintance with the educated class.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Macao" id="Macao"></a>Macao</span>, <i>March 28th</i>: We again took the steamer <i>Kian Tang</i> for an
+eighty-mile run to Macao. The scene is quite as varied and pleasing as
+the passage from Hong-Kong to Canton. There were numerous islands, and,
+on the mainland, villages were seen with occasional forts which told the
+story of past invasions. Rice fields and great groves of mulberry trees
+indicated some of the chief industries of China. Macao is situated on
+the western shores of the estuary of the great Pearl River, sometimes
+called Canton River. It was founded early in the sixteenth century by
+the Portuguese, who were the first nation to invade the Eastern seas in
+the interest of commerce, having aided the Chinese during the invasion
+of pirates. As a reward, in the year 1557, the rocky peninsula was given
+to them, the Portuguese having previously made use of it as a
+trading-station and a naval depot.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image113.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="The bund at Macao, called Praia Grande" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_bund_at_Macao_called_Praia_Grande" id="The_bund_at_Macao_called_Praia_Grande"></a>The bund at Macao, called Praia Grande</span></div>
+
+<p>Macao is beautifully located high above the sea, and the approach is
+fine; the first impression is of a Mediterranean port, but on landing,
+the style of the buildings and the arrangement of the streets reminded
+me of Spain, while the blended coloring on the parapet and walls (which
+only time can give) was like Ponta Delgada <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span>of the Azores. Our hotel
+stood on an eminence overlooking the sea, indeed so near the sea that
+the moan and swish of the waves were always with us. The view from my
+balcony brought to mind the outlook from the old monastery at Amalfi,
+Italy. The whole atmosphere of the place was peaceful, and this was its
+chief attraction. We were there over Sunday, and the impression was
+deepened. Our arrival being early in the morning, we at once commenced
+our tour of observation, our guide seeming quite intelligent. We knew
+that the population of Macao was about eighty thousand, and, with the
+exception of a few Portuguese officials, entirely Chinese, so we were
+prepared for Chinese scenes, and it seemed quite consistent that we
+should first visit a large opium factory, this drug being one of the
+large exports of Macao. Here was explained the entire process of
+manufacture, from the poppy leaf to the final shipment; and for a
+further object lesson, we were taken into a room arranged for smoking
+opium, where sat three richly dressed Chinamen, half reclining; two had
+already passed into the temporary land of bliss and the third had the
+far-away look in his eyes that betokened semi-unconsciousness.</p>
+
+<p>The fourteenth-century fa&ccedil;ade of San Paulo greatly interested us aside
+from its architectural merit; it stands to-day, as it has stood for
+generations, the sole remnant of a fine cathedral<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span> which perished in an
+earthquake. It is like a sentinel pointing the way to a better life. The
+modern Catholic cathedral had no distinctive features. The English
+church was unpretentious, but the Protestant cemetery adjoining contains
+tablets sacred to the memory of many military and naval officers and
+also of missionaries and their families; I remember especially the stone
+erected to a Rev. Mr. Morrison, one of the early missionaries to China.</p>
+
+<p>Macao's chief claim to renown is its association with Camo&euml;ns, the great
+Portuguese poet of the sixteenth century, whose epic poem, "The
+Lusiads," has been translated into most known languages. This poem was
+written during his ten years' residence in Macao, and the garden,
+grotto, and bust of Camo&euml;ns are all a memorial tribute from a fellow
+countryman, Lorenco Marques. The garden and grotto were interesting, and
+the bronze bust which rests on a block whereon is engraved a poem to
+Macao by an English scholar, Sir John Bowring, is fine in design and
+execution. It is interesting to note that through "The Lusiads" Camo&euml;ns
+was permitted to return to Portugal to end his days, he having been
+banished twice because his views were too outspoken. He died at Lisbon
+in 1580.</p>
+
+<p>The shops in Macao were of no special interest, and the street scenes
+lacked life and color.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span> A long drive followed luncheon, first to the
+wonderful Bund, here called Praia Granda, which is semi-circular like
+the harbor, and the street fronting the water is lined with homes or
+business houses. Not one discordant note is here found. The drive is
+protected on the water side by a high stone coping, and it was being
+extended far beyond the original curve on the right-hand side, while at
+the left it leads out into a prolonged drive, first on the heights where
+are located residences and a club, then on to the country, until we
+reach the dividing line between a Portuguese possession and China. This
+is marked by an imposing arch. On the outskirts we visited several
+factories, one for weaving matting, another for the manufacture of every
+form of fire-works (a regular Fourth of July supply), and that the
+realism should not be missing, some small boys on the corner exploded a
+bunch of fire-crackers.</p>
+
+<p>There were other factories, but the most interesting was one devoted to
+the manufacture of silk thread from cocoons. It was very large, and only
+women and girls were there employed, and the deft way in which they
+caught the silk end from the cocoon (the latter is first placed in
+boiling water) and wound it on reels quite won our admiration. We were
+then taken to rooms where large twists of silk were placed ready for
+shipment to England, a package not over two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span> feet square representing an
+investment of many thousands of dollars. The long drive to the hotel
+ended an eventful day; the evening was to furnish further excitement in
+a visit to some fan-tan parlors for which Macao is noted; indeed, it is
+the Monte Carlo of the Far East, and I fear this feature attracts more
+tourists than the beauty of the location. Certain it is that the
+steamers from Hong-Kong supply a large contingent that comes hither
+daily, since both fan-tan and lotteries are prohibited in Hong-Kong. All
+the parlors are under Chinese management and are extensively patronized.
+Some are said to be very luxurious in their appointments, being, of
+course, for the wealthy patrons, who do not, however, sit on the floor
+where the gambling is going on, but in a little room arranged with
+galleries all around. Their servants sit below and receive from them an
+indication as to certain numbers which may win or lose as the wheel of
+fortune turns. There are retiring-rooms for the opium smokers and
+separate places for serving refreshments. Such a condition represents
+the aristocratic status of the game. The reverse aspect is seen in the
+miserable "joints," which are too dreadful even to contemplate. Here is
+where Macao derives the revenue to carry on its fine improvements, and,
+as in Bangkok, there is no intimation of a desire to reform the evil.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span></p><p>The Chinese have also invaded Burma, and intermarriage with the Burmese
+maidens is becoming general. Java is not exempt from their presence; in
+Siam they are very numerous; in Singapore they permeate everywhere; and
+in Macao they are possessors of the field. Truly their colonizing power
+is tremendous, and, unlike the British, they commence downward and work
+upward, the coolie ever being the advance guard.</p>
+
+<p>On Sunday morning there was no service at the English church, and so two
+of our party, by invitation of the missionary, Rev. Mr. Todd, attended a
+Chinese service held in rooms which were far from adequate for their
+needs. A Sunday-school of about two hundred children was just leaving as
+we entered, and their interested faces made me hopeful that this early
+influence might save them from the fan-tan attraction. The service was
+in Chinese, but the reverend gentleman, not being fluent in the Chinese
+language, first gave a paragraph in English, and this was translated by
+his wife into Chinese, which made it more interesting and assuredly more
+understandable to us. The audience paid the closest attention, and to my
+surprise their faces revealed an animated response. The women were
+dressed in the long black coats and loose trousers seen everywhere, but
+their hair ornaments were of gold, set with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span> jewels, and their earrings
+jade or large pearls of great value. At the close of the service a man
+arose and evidently made a most impassioned appeal, judging by the
+intonation of his voice and the spontaneous applause he received. At the
+close Mr. Todd told us that it was an appeal for money with which to
+secure a better place of meeting, and that the Chinese women in front
+had already given two hundred dollars toward the movement.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday morning the steamer <i>Suitai</i> carried us safely back to
+Hong-Kong. The harbor looked more attractive than ever, and we were glad
+to be again under English rule. On entering the hotel, an incident
+occurred that lent coloring to my "theory." In order to explain, I must
+go backward. On my first arrival at the hotel I had placed some
+photographs on my chiffonier, and among them was the one of little
+Katharine in the dog-cart with Omg, our American China boy, standing by
+her. The following morning on entering my room, I saw both of the men
+who were in charge of the cleaning gazing intently at the picture;
+turning around, one of them asked, "You know China boy?" I assented, and
+then told him something of the Chinamen who were employed in California.
+This seemed to please them both immensely. On my return from Canton and
+Macao, I walked down a long hall to my room<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">223</a></span> and encountered several of
+the so-termed "boys," every one of whom smiled and greeted me. I was
+puzzled for a moment,&mdash;they had formerly seemed so impassive,&mdash;and then
+I remembered the morning's incident and inferred that all had seen the
+picture and had been told that I "knew China boy."</p>
+
+<p>Manila was in our original itinerary, and on our first arrival in
+Hong-Kong we were given our choice of a trip there or of the one we had
+enjoyed at Canton and Macao, as the visit to Manila would have afforded
+us but one day in Canton without even a glimpse of Macao. We thought we
+had chosen wisely, but that evening, when we heard the enthusiastic
+report of several who had just returned from Manila, I regretted that we
+could not have done both, which would be my advice to all future
+tourists.</p>
+
+<p>We had three more days in Hong-Kong. There were jinrikisha rides,
+shopping, and attendance at a Chinese theatre where much noise, vigorous
+action, and very little dramatic talent were in evidence. It was,
+however, interesting to watch the people, and to note their enthusiasm,
+with no impassiveness now, as well as the peculiar mixture of costumes.
+The business streets were full of life and action, and the shops
+contained a very tempting array of articles. One afternoon I took a
+jinrikisha ride on the Bund, past the great warehouses, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span> godowns as
+they are called, filled with goods or food stuffs for shipment to every
+port in China. Hong-Kong also aims to be a centre of supply for the
+shipping of the world that comes to her door, and her dockyards and
+shops are said to be equal to the demand. Somewhere I have seen this
+statement, "that if Hong-Kong could be a port of origin instead of a
+port of call, her commercial importance would equal that of London." The
+means of transportation are varied, including electric cars, carriages,
+jinrikishas, and sedan chairs. These may sometimes be seen following
+each other in succession. The streets show the cosmopolitan side of the
+city's life, as denizens of almost every clime assemble there, in the
+interest of business or of pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>The militia gives a dash of color to the scene,&mdash;the officers with their
+uniforms, and the ever-present Tommy Atkins in his khaki suit,&mdash;besides
+the wealthy Chinese in robes of brocade, the first of the kind we had
+seen, and the coolie in short jacket and blue knee trousers, the color
+being a badge of servitude. The English social life of the city is also
+said to be very agreeable to residents, or to those who remain long
+enough to participate in it, and I can now understand the enthusiasm of
+friends who once resided there. When we left Hong-Kong, we felt that we
+could have lingered much longer and been happy.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><br />
+<img src="images/image114.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="The bund at Shanghai" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_bund_at_Shanghai" id="The_bund_at_Shanghai"></a>The bund at Shanghai</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span></p><p><span class="smcap"><a name="Shanghai" id="Shanghai"></a>Shanghai</span>: Our approach to Shanghai was through the Wusung River, as all
+large steamers are obliged to anchor at the bar. A launch was taken for
+a ride of sixteen miles. The river banks were picturesque, and little
+villages were succeeded by a vast amount of shipping, while factories
+and warehouses from an artistic standpoint spoiled a large space of the
+water front, the redeeming feature further on being a Public Garden, the
+Consulates, and a collection of fine business houses.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Shanghai on the morning of April 6th, and at once
+proceeded to the Hotel Astor; then we left almost immediately for a
+general drive, as we were to remain only for the day. We first visited
+the native quarter, where the streets were narrow; but, in comparison
+with Canton, they seemed much less crowded. We saw the exterior of some
+temples and an interesting tea-house and bazar which were similar in
+arrangement to those in Canton, and contained about the same articles.
+The native town is very tame in comparison with Canton. Before luncheon
+we visited two large silk houses, where we examined a remarkable display
+of all kinds of silks and embroideries. After luncheon we proceeded to
+take what is called the "Bubbling Well Drive," first exploring two
+interesting tea-houses, one called the "Mandarin Teahouse" being very
+elegant in all of its appointments.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">226</a></span> It had a garden arranged in
+conventional Chinese style, with a rockery, miniature lake, and dwarf
+trees. On the ride to Bubbling Well Road, we saw many beautiful homes of
+modern European style, Shanghai being considered a very desirable
+residence for foreigners. After visiting other points of interest, in
+the late afternoon we returned to our steamer, having had time only for
+a bird's-eye view of Shanghai and a brief outline of its places of
+interest.</p>
+
+<p>Shanghai is situated on the left bank of a stream called the Hiangpo, a
+tributary of the Yangtse River. Formerly there were an English
+settlement and an American settlement, the latter with no legal claims.
+These are now merged into the foreign settlement. There is also a French
+colony, with its numerous concessions.</p>
+
+<p>The history of the city may be divided into two sections, the
+pre-foreign period and the foreign period. In both there has been a
+continuous increase of prosperity and importance, due to furnishing
+unusual facilities for fostering trade. In the early years Shanghai was
+subject to frequent raids and disturbances, and in 1543 there was a
+general devastation. Foreign residence was sanctioned only as a result
+of the first Chinese war. The signing of the treaty of Nanking threw
+open Shanghai and four other ports to foreign trade, the latter being
+Swatow, Amoy,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span> Foochow, and Ningpoo, but these have never acquired the
+importance of Shanghai, which has the advantage of being at the mouth of
+the Yangtse River.</p>
+
+<p>In 1849 a concession was granted to the French, but as late as 1850
+there were only one hundred and fifty-seven foreign residents, and
+twenty-five foreign firms doing business. Shanghai is distinctively a
+commercial city, with a flat location, no background, and an artificial
+foreground of solid rows of business buildings. The approach to the city
+reveals a succession of mills, docks, wharves, engineering works, and
+buildings of every description, except those of artistic and pleasing
+appearance. The principal streets, the Bund and the Nanking Road, run at
+right angles to each other, and the chief thoroughfares run parallel to
+these two. The Bund is broad, fronting the water, and is a popular
+thoroughfare. The Nanking Road deserves special mention. It begins as a
+narrow passage-way with foreign business houses on each side; it then
+widens, and has Chinese shops, with, later on, the recreation ground,
+Town Hall, and Library. Farther on it is known as Bubbling Well Road.</p>
+
+<p>Shanghai, as a residence for the European, is said to be the finest city
+in the East as regards modern conveniences, finer than any place east of
+Suez, but it is a city of contrasts. No<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span> centre can offer a wider choice
+for enjoyment,&mdash;the public recreation ground covering eight thousand
+acres. Within this enclosure is the race course, where cricket,
+football, hockey, tennis, golf, polo, and baseball are played; and
+numberless pavilions, dressing-rooms, and a swimming-bath are included
+in the adjacent building&mdash;all free to the public. There are in addition
+many clubs of a private nature, some social and others musical, and many
+of them owning fine buildings. Matters of education are not neglected,
+and the public schools even include kindergartens. There are likewise
+private schools, but the provisions for educating Chinese children are
+very inadequate, and mostly of the mission order. The Roman Catholic
+missions have excellent schools and well-equipped buildings. There is a
+fine American College, St. John's, that grants degrees. Some
+institutions are managed by the Chinese, the principal one being the
+Imperial Polytechnic College, which is housed in a fine block of
+buildings. There are also various organizations of an intellectual
+order, such as the Royal Asiatic Society, which is affiliated with a
+society of the same name in England; and an American Asiatic Society to
+further interests in the Far East. Architects, engineers, and
+missionaries likewise have their guilds.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image115.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="Mogi Road at Nagasaki" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Mogi_Road_at_Nagasaki" id="Mogi_Road_at_Nagasaki"></a>Mogi Road at Nagasaki</span></div>
+
+<p>The religious life of the settlement is very <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">229</a></span>diversified, and includes
+Jews, Parsees, Mohammedans, Greek and Roman Catholics, and members of
+the Anglican Church; the various forms of the Protestant Church are
+represented, and most of the missions have their headquarters here.</p>
+
+<p>We returned to our steamer in the evening, and sailed on for Kobe, our
+point of departure, but we had "stop-over privileges at Nagasaki." Our
+intervening day was passed mostly on deck, the weather being fine.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Nagasaki" id="Nagasaki"></a>Nagasaki</span>, <i>April 8th</i>: We arrived at Nagasaki on the morning of April
+8th in a pouring rain which rather dampened our ardor, inasmuch as we
+had a full day's programme arranged. We went ashore, however, and
+proceeded to the Cliff House for a short time, but as the storm
+increased we returned to the steamer somewhat crestfallen. The <i>Korea</i>
+was taking on coal when we left, but on our return there was an ominous
+silence, and we learned that the workers, thoroughly drenched, had
+struck and that the vessel would be compelled to remain another day.
+Hope revived amongst us, and on the following morning the sun was
+shining brightly. This was the only time I have known a strike to be of
+benefit.</p>
+
+<p>The process of taking on coal was very peculiar. Ladders were placed up
+the sides of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">230</a></span> steamer, relays of men and women were arranged in nine
+rows, counting from the bottom; coal was placed in baskets and passed up
+in fire-bucket fashion with the utmost quickness and dexterity. It
+continued incessantly until the work was completed. There were more
+women than men working, and they all wore pointed white handkerchiefs
+over their heads.</p>
+
+<p>A steam launch conveyed us to Nagasaki, and once there we took a
+jinrikisha for a memorable mountain ride of five miles, along a road
+called the Mogi. We ascended gradually from the sea-level, and soon the
+loveliest view was spread before us. On our right, looking downward,
+were the sea and the city rising in terraces from the water, the
+hillsides covered with foliage, all sparkling in the morning light; on
+our left, foothills, and beyond these the mountains. We stopped at a
+Japanese tea-house to rest the jinrikisha men, and soon after, we came
+to a point in the landscape said to be represented in the opera of
+"Madame Butterfly." Reaching the Mogi, we found another tea-house, and
+we all alighted and roamed around the point, where we had a magnificent,
+far-reaching panorama. The descent was quite as enjoyable, and
+altogether we voted the ride an entire success.</p>
+
+<p>We next visited some bazars. The temples were omitted, but I later
+visited them on my return trip to North China. Then we returned<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span> to the
+steamer for a late luncheon, and the bevy of animated coal-heavers were
+still at work. The day following was our last on the steamer, and our
+way lay through one portion of the Inland Sea, meaning a narrow
+waterway, the shores of which were visible on both sides.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image116.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="The main street in Kobe" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_main_street_in_Kobe" id="The_main_street_in_Kobe"></a>The main street in Kobe</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Kobe" id="Kobe"></a>Kobe</span>: We arrived at Kobe on the evening of April 10th, and fell at once
+into the grasp of the custom-house authorities, who proved, however,
+very lenient. Our valued Director here left us to go on to Yokohama and
+was succeeded by a Japanese guide, Mr. Macheeda, who took charge of four
+of the party, small groups and native guides being the policy in
+Japan.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Our abiding-place in Kobe was the Oriental Hotel.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning we went out early in jinrikishas for a general
+ride through Kobe, going first to the distant waterfall in the
+mountains, which really proved a fine spectacle. Next we visited
+temples, then some shops or bazars, and a Satsuma studio, where the
+whole art process was explained to us by a most courteous Japanese, who
+spoke English perfectly. All the appointments of the studio were truly
+Japanese, including the sliding windows and doors, the hardwood floor
+and the matting walls. Here tea and little cakes were served to us.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span></p><p>We then went to another studio with a different interior. This was
+larger and more pretentious. Again the process was explained to us in
+the same courteous way, and we realized that we were now in a land where
+good manners prevailed. A heavy rain unfortunately set in, and we were
+compelled to return to the hotel.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Onomichi" id="Onomichi"></a>Onomichi</span>: The following day we took the train for Onomichi, arriving at
+our destination in the evening. Here we were to have a new experience,
+the hotel being strictly Japanese, with not a word of English spoken.
+First, we were asked to remove our shoes and put on slippers, the
+alternative being cotton coverings for our own shoes. I preferred the
+latter. The house was quite large, consisting of two stories. The first
+floor was, however, occupied by the family. The second floor was
+entirely devoted to our party, whose suite included several rooms with
+movable screens so arranged that one large room could be converted into
+two. There were sliding windows, paper taking the place of glass.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image117.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="The fort and castle at Osaka" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_fort_and_castle_at_Osaka" id="The_fort_and_castle_at_Osaka"></a>The fort and castle at Osaka</span></div>
+
+<p>Our beds were the futons, composed of dark red comforters, one below and
+one above us, with another hard roll for the head. There were no chairs
+in the sleeping-rooms, but washstands had been improvised, there being
+dressing-rooms outside of some of the rooms. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">233</a></span>Concession was made us in
+the improvised dining-room, a table and chairs being reserved for our
+special use. On one side of this room there was a slightly raised floor,
+and here were pretty little side tables and bronze ornaments. Our guide
+had very considerately brought some canned goods with him and also some
+bread; the family, however, furnished us with eggs and tea. The mother
+and two daughters were bright and sunny, as were the little Japanese
+maids who attended to the menial work. It was altogether a novel
+experience. The next morning, however, the rain was coming down in
+torrents, and there was no possibility of our taking a steamer for a
+trip of several hours to the sacred island of Miyajima, so we
+reluctantly boarded the morning train for Osaka, arriving there late in
+the afternoon.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Osaka" id="Osaka"></a>Osaka</span>, <i>April 13th</i>: The next morning dawned brightly, and we left in
+jinrikishas for a general tour, first visiting the fort where stands a
+noted castle, very picturesque in appearance. We then visited the
+Exposition of Industrial Arts, which did not seem unlike an exposition
+at home in its general arrangements. The goods displayed, however, were
+very different. Then we had a ride along Cherry Blossom Avenue, the
+trees being laden with the pale pink flower. We visited bazars and noted
+the general aspect<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">234</a></span> of the place, canals being a dominant characteristic
+of the landscape. We saw a particularly fine temple among many others.
+Osaka is a commercial city of great wealth and is more celebrated from a
+business point of view than from its artistic aspect.</p>
+
+<p>After luncheon we went to Yaba Meczan's Satsuma studio. This artist is
+celebrated, having taken prizes at both the Chicago and St. Louis
+Expositions, and his work surpassed any I had ever seen. The decoration
+on some of the vases was so fine that it required a glass to bring out
+the full and minute detail. In designing and decorating these vases the
+work has to be done with a magnifying glass, which is a very severe
+strain on the eyes. We then proceeded up what is called Theatre Street,
+so named because of the situation of several playhouses in the midst of
+prominent shops. Banners and signs were displayed in every available
+space, all of different colors, and the general effect was very unusual
+as they floated in the breeze. Later in the afternoon we took a train
+for Kyoto.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Kyoto" id="Kyoto"></a>Kyoto</span>, <i>April 15th</i>: The following morning another heavy rain greeted
+us. We were now in the Japanese city which retains more of the old life
+and customs than any other, not having been spoiled as yet by modern
+innovations.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">235</a></span> The bad weather abating in the afternoon, we went to the
+temple Nishi Otani. This is situated on quite an eminence. We crossed a
+stone bridge spanning a lotus pond, and walked up an inclined way paved
+with granite, a flight of steps leading to the handsome main gate which
+faces a strikingly carved two-storied structure. We took our places on
+the steps and awaited the arrival of the procession of Buddhist priests,
+this being the chief object of our visit. They came in large numbers,
+walking two by two, and arrayed in the most gorgeous brocades, no two
+being of the same pattern. Around the waist they wore wide sashes of
+equal richness and beauty, and the effect was truly very striking, as
+they walked up the hill. This was one of the features of the rite of
+commemoration, the ceremonies continuing through the week. We then
+visited some shops, of which there are a large number, all of them very
+interesting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image118.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="The rapids near Kyoto" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_rapids_near_Kyoto" id="The_rapids_near_Kyoto"></a>The rapids near Kyoto</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;">
+<img src="images/image119.jpg" width="339" height="500" alt="Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Bamboo_Avenue_in_Kyoto" id="Bamboo_Avenue_in_Kyoto"></a>Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto</span></div>
+
+<p>Shintoism is the State religion, and the following morning we visited
+one of the temples, named Kitano Tenjin. Entering through the great
+stone torii or gateway, we found stone lanterns, together with stone and
+bronze bulls presented by devotees. Another torii and a couple of
+two-storied gates were passed through, the last being called the Gate of
+the Three Luminaries, or the Sun, Moon, and Stars. This was the entrance
+to one side of the square, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span> other three sides being formed of
+colonnades. It might be well to explain that a torii consists of two
+upright columns several feet apart. At the top is a cross-bar extending
+out about one foot on each side and two feet lower than the top of the
+columns.</p>
+
+<p>There were many other details noted by us, and it was perhaps the most
+effective Shinto temple that we saw. We then visited Kinkakuji, more
+commonly called the "Golden Pavilion." This is Buddhist in character,
+and there is a monastery surrounded by a fine garden in which is another
+pavilion. The garden was artistic, in the middle of which is a lake with
+pine-clad shores and pine-clad islets; this indeed seemed unusual so
+near a large city. The lake is usually filled with a flowering plant
+called junsai and is stocked with carp, which always appear on the
+approach of visitors, expecting to be fed.</p>
+
+<p>All the ancient buildings have disappeared except the Pavilion, which
+was restored in 1906. It stands on the water's edge and is
+three-storied. Each floor is furnished with statuettes of different
+saints and has mural decorations by Kano Masanobu. There are very
+unusual features connected with this temple. The so-called apartments
+are in two sets,&mdash;one attached to the main building with pictorial
+sliding screens symbolic of Chinese sages and other subjects by Kano.
+There are also drawings of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">237</a></span> birds and trees, and ornaments done by
+celebrated artists. Folding screens are in common use. One artistic
+group represents three religious teachers, Confucius, Buddha, and Lao
+Tze. After showing these art treasures to us the priests served tea,
+while we sat around in true Japanese style.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image120.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="The Golden Pavilion" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Golden_Pavilion" id="The_Golden_Pavilion"></a>The Golden Pavilion</span></div>
+
+<p>After luncheon we went to still another very interesting Buddhist
+temple, Kiyomizu-dera. Kyoto abounds in fine temples. We left our
+jinrikishas at the foot of the hill and walked up a long, high lane
+called Teapot Street because in all the little shops bordering the
+thoroughfare china and teapots are displayed, forming the favorite
+purchases of the country people who frequent this temple. The building
+is situated in a striking position and commands a view of the entire
+city. The two-storied gateway at the top of the steps was restored in
+1897. Outside this gate are two pagodas, each three-storied, and the
+large green bell, dating from 1624. We then passed up through a
+colonnade to the main temple, whose rough, hewn columns and bare floor
+are most unusual. The whole style is original and unique. The great
+festival day here is on the 17th of August, when a classic concert is
+given, the musicians being dressed in various unique costumes. They are
+seated opposite each other in the wings like the two sides of a choir. A
+dancing stage extends the whole<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">238</a></span> length of its front, and this opens
+into a hall full of <i>ex-voto</i> pictures, some of which possess great
+artistic merit. Directly behind this main temple are several other
+temples and an eleven-storied pagoda which it is impossible to describe
+here adequately.</p>
+
+<p>On our homeward way we visited the Art Museum. This and the museum at
+Nara contain the very best collections of early Japanese statuary. The
+exhibits have been taken or borrowed from time to time from various
+Buddhist temples in Kyoto and the surrounding provinces. Some date from
+the seventh and eighth centuries, when Buddhist carving was at the
+height of its excellence. There are also screens, ancient manuscripts,
+swords, armor, musical instruments, coins, imperial robes, and
+miscellaneous articles.</p>
+
+<p>To vary the programme a little, we made an excursion on the following
+day to Lake Biwa, some miles distant. This is a very celebrated body of
+water in Japan. We had our choice between returning to Kyoto by the more
+exciting way of the canal with its long tunnels or going to Otsu. We
+chose the latter.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image121.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_largest_pine_tree_in_the_world_at_Lake_Biwa" id="The_largest_pine_tree_in_the_world_at_Lake_Biwa"></a>The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa</span></div>
+
+<p>Near Otsu there is the largest pine tree in the world, and it has been
+trained in the peculiar conventional manner employed by the Japanese.
+Here we had a picnic luncheon and then drove some distance to the
+heights of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">239</a></span>Otsu, where one hundred and thirty monasteries and temples
+are said to be grouped. We walked up the incline, passing many temples
+and seeing a very ancient bronze bell of great historic interest.
+Descending, we went through the village of Otsu, which has quite a
+reputation, since it was the scene of what might have been a very
+serious accident to the present Emperor of Russia, then czarevitch. He
+was accompanied by Prince George of Greece, now King George, when
+savagely attacked by an insane man. Certain disaster would have followed
+had it not been for the presence of mind of the Prince.</p>
+
+<p>We reached Kyoto at 5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, having had a long, though extremely
+delightful day. Excursions being in order, we went the next day to
+"shoot the rapids ending at Arashi-yama." We had various means of
+transportation during the day, jinrikishas, trains, and a short railway
+trip which was highly picturesque, the line running along just above the
+dashing river. At Hozu we took the boat for the descent of the rapids
+down to the landing-place of Arashi-yama, and this was a most exciting
+experience, the passage taking about an hour and a half. Great care had
+to be observed by the pilots of the boats, as there were several parties
+going down and many others returning. The shores of the river were very
+interesting, being high wooded hills which were abloom. Arashi-yama<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">240</a></span> is
+famous for its cherry blossoms. We had a picnic luncheon here and
+returned to Kyoto by train.</p>
+
+<p>On Easter Sunday I attended a union service, but afterwards learned that
+there was a special commemoration at St. Mary's, and that the Episcopal
+Bishop Partridge was at the hotel. There seemed to be a great deal of
+friendly feeling between the different religious denominations in Kyoto;
+a little booklet given us at the union service containing information
+with regard to all the churches, including the Episcopal. Easter
+afternoon we attended a remarkable Buddhist ceremony in the Chroin
+Temple on a high hill. At least seventy-five priests were in attendance,
+all arrayed in their gorgeous brocaded robes and sitting in parallel
+lines opposite each other. It seemed to be an intoned service. We were
+separated from the officiants by an anteroom with a high railing, but we
+could observe all that was going on. This was a part of the ceremonial
+of the week to which I referred in connection with the Buddhist
+procession. After watching for a while, we walked about and saw several
+adjacent temples, marked by their spaciousness.</p>
+
+<p>A visit to the Nijo Castle, by permit, was of great interest. It dates
+from 1601, and was built by Ieyasu of Nikko memory for his use when
+visiting Kyoto. It has even in modern<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span> times considerable historical
+interest, as it was here, on April 6, 1868, that the Emperor, on
+obtaining his ancestral rights by the revolution then in progress, met
+the Council of State and swore to grant a deliberative assembly and to
+decide all measures by public opinion. For a long period Nijo Castle was
+used by the prefecture and was greatly damaged. Since 1883, it has been
+one of the Imperial Summer palaces. The apartments of the castle are
+very beautiful; the sliding screens between the rooms and the wooden
+doors separating the different sets of apartments are all adorned with
+paintings of flowers, birds, and the like, done by artists of the Kano
+School. There is beautiful metal work, and the reception hall is
+decorated with representations of street life in Kyoto and other cities.
+The ceiling is lacquered.</p>
+
+<p>We also procured a permit to visit the Imperial Palace, which is placed
+in a large garden like a park. This was spacious, but not so artistic as
+Nijo; there were many different buildings. We visited several, one known
+as the Temple of 33,333 Buddhas, and after gazing at the long array of
+walls and corridors with their ornaments, we accepted the estimate as
+accurate. One afternoon the great Shinto procession of the year was in
+progress. We took jinrikishas for quite a long ride, and then arrived at
+a small suburb of Kyoto, where we had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">242</a></span> places engaged on the upper
+gallery of a house. There were great crowds of people, and we waited a
+long time before the arrival of the first shrine. There were five in
+all. These shrines were large and ornamental, with a great deal of gilt
+about them, and they were placed on poles borne upon the shoulders of
+men. Four other small shrines followed, and before the pageant was over,
+the afternoon was nearly consumed. This procession was on its way to the
+great Temple of Inari, several miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>One morning we devoted to visiting two cloisonn&eacute; studios and some curio
+shops. The first studio, Nakamura's, was very artistically arranged; one
+large room encircled a miniature garden laid out in true Japanese style
+with dwarf trees, rockeries, and a tiny little lake. We saw the whole
+process of manufacture and it was also explained to us.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> The specimens
+were very rare and beautiful. Tea and little cakes were served and great
+courtesy extended to us. The second studio was similar to this, but a
+little larger, and again we saw the garden, and again tea was served.
+Several interesting curio shops were visited, and we then went to the
+large establishment of Yamanaka, who had fine collections at the Chicago
+and St. Louis Expositions. We then went over some silk<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">243</a></span> stores, the
+manufacture of silk being the chief industry; one may purchase all kinds
+of embroidered goods.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image122.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="Kasuga Temple" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Kasuga_Temple" id="Kasuga_Temple"></a>Kasuga Temple</span></div>
+
+<p>The annual Cherry Blossom Dance&mdash;repeated at intervals for one
+week&mdash;occurred at this time. It is preceded by a ceremonial tea. We went
+at five in the afternoon and were seated around the sides of a large
+room. Special places were arranged for the pouring of tea, and presently
+a very pretty Japanese girl appeared and proceeded to heat the water,
+measure out the tea, put it in the teapot, with many other movements,
+pouring a little water on it, all in the most deliberate manner, and
+finally the preliminaries were over, and three pretty little maidens
+passed the tea around. Another girl in a bright kimono appeared and went
+through the process again. This was repeated three or four times. We
+then adjourned to a very large room, like a small theatre, with a
+gallery at the back, in which we sat. Opposite us was a wide stage, and
+on either side was arranged a platform about two feet wide, extending
+the whole length of the room. Here sat the musicians dressed as geisha
+girls, and the dancers, called Maiko, were also clad in the same manner,
+with long artistic kimonos and flowers in their hair. The dancers
+entered and proceeded to the stage; then commenced a slow and measured
+tread, every movement being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span> graceful. Cherry blossoms were everywhere,
+even forming the decorations on the wall. Different figures were
+repeated, but all in that deliberate manner, very little like dancing
+but more like a devotional exercise. We sat there for about an hour, but
+cannot truthfully say that we enjoyed the music, as it was somewhat
+discordant.</p>
+
+<p>Our last day in Kyoto was a very full one. We visited shops in the
+morning, and in the afternoon went quite a distance to see a historical
+procession. We were seated in about the same manner as previously
+described. Those who took part in the procession were geisha girls and
+novitiates who were to be educated as future geisha girls, their parents
+giving them over to the instructors at an early age. This was a very
+interesting pageant. First only one or two would appear in a historical
+costume of very rich brocade, the hair most elaborately dressed with the
+ornaments peculiar to that particular period. Next two little girls
+would appear, also dressed in historical costumes. Then, after a
+considerable pause, there followed another geisha girl; and thus the
+procession continued for over an hour. We did not realize until the day
+following that most of the persons who took part were of questionable
+morals.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we attended a Japanese theatre. The play was a historical
+tragedy called "The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">245</a></span> Forty-seven Ronans." The stage was well arranged
+and the action very good; it was far more interesting than the Chinese
+theatre previously described.</p>
+
+<p>During the week a large Collver party of eighteen arrived at the hotel;
+they were later to go to North China and by the Trans-Siberian route to
+Russia. Their Director gave a Japanese dinner in which we were included,
+Mr. Burton Holmes and his friend being the only other guests present.
+The dining-room was in the Japanese portion of the hotel, arranged with
+rugs and draperies covering the hardwood floors in quite an artistic
+manner, and at the sides were placed cushions on which we were supposed
+to sit or kneel. The formal exercises were mostly conducted by geisha
+and Maiko girls, three officiating as musicians, several more dancing,
+and others serving as attendants. Everything was done in the most
+measured manner. First, boxes were placed before us containing four
+articles, all dishes of peculiar concoctions. These were intended, we
+imagined, for us to look at for a time until the musicians and dancers
+appeared. The programme was opened with a musical number, which was
+anything but musical; the dancers then took their positions and went
+through the usual formal measures. There was more music, then another
+dance. This was repeated three or four<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span> times. The attendant geisha
+girls were seated at intervals in front of the guests.</p>
+
+<p>At a certain signal the music and dancing ceased, and trays were brought
+us on which were soup (we imagined the famous bird's-nest), a cup of
+sak&eacute;, two more peculiar dishes, and also chopsticks! By this time the
+kneeling process had become rather painful, and I availed myself of the
+cup of sak&eacute;, feeling I needed some stimulant. This was the only
+refreshment I tried, but some of the party had the courage to experiment
+further. After some deliberation and a little more converse, we arose
+from our repast and proceeded to the hotel dining-room, where a
+substantial dinner was served us at nine o'clock. This was altogether
+the most unique affair of the week and greatly enjoyed by all. The eight
+days in Kyoto had flown and we would gladly have remained longer. The
+atmosphere of the place was so truly of the past, the temples so very
+interesting, and the quaint customs of the olden times so well retained,
+that it gave a peculiar charm to the place.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Nara" id="Nara"></a>Nara</span>, <i>April 23d</i>: A day's excursion to Nara was planned, but a heavy
+rain somewhat marred our enjoyment. Nara was once a place of much
+importance, the capital of Japan during seven reigns, stretching from
+709 to 784 <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> Its chief attraction now is the great natural<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">247</a></span> beauty of
+the place, some fine temples, and a deer park. Kasuga is a noted Shinto
+temple. The approach is through the celebrated grounds where were seen
+many deer, apparently very tame. A fine avenue of cryptomerias added
+much to the dignity of the approach. The temple stands at the end of a
+long avenue of stone lanterns, some of which are lighted every night.
+The main temple is painted red, with brass lanterns, and surrounded by
+cryptomerias. A religious dance, which is held in a building near by, is
+one of the many attractive features of this temple. The dress of the
+dancers is peculiar, composed of a wide red divided skirt, a white
+under-garment, and a long gauze mantle. The hair is worn in a thick
+tress down the back, a chaplet of flowers is on the forehead, the face
+very much powdered, and in the hands are carried either the branches of
+a tree or some tiny bells which are swayed back and forth in a measured
+manner. The orchestra consists of three priests.</p>
+
+<p>There is a fine Buddhist temple, renovated in 1898. It is built on the
+side of a hill; a flight of steps leads up to it and the whole front is
+covered with metal lanterns which produce a weird effect. Not far
+distant is a large temple which contains a bronze Buddha called
+Dai-butsu. When we saw it, the temple was in a chaotic condition,
+undergoing renovation. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">248</a></span> height of the Buddha is fifty-three and
+one-half feet; the face is sixteen feet long and nine and one-half feet
+broad. It is in a sitting position, with right hand uplifted. Nara has a
+fine museum, well equipped for the study of early Japanese religions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Yamada" id="Yamada"></a>Yamada</span>, <i>April 23d</i>: In the afternoon we left for Yamada, the city of
+the celebrated Temple of Ise. On arriving, we took quite a drive up the
+mountain side to Furuichi and to the Goni-Kwai Hotel, a large,
+beautifully situated Japanese hostelry with a European department. This
+consisted of eight rooms, furnished comfortably in European style, even
+with grates, but we had the novelty of Japanese environment as we walked
+down the corridors and passed little Japanese rooms with sliding screens
+and open windows. In the morning, we walked up the hill and had a
+magnificent view; we left early in jinrikishas for a long day's
+programme. First we went through the town, the shops forming part of a
+long street, with open fronts and interiors. We then crossed a bridge to
+a suburb which contained the celebrated Temple of Ise. We proceeded up a
+long avenue, containing torii No. 1, torii No. 2, and torii No. 3,
+entering what is called the inner Temple of Ise, which, like all Shinto
+places of worship, is very plain on the exterior. We were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">249</a></span> not
+permitted to enter, but were obliged to look through an open enclosure.
+Our Japanese guide knelt down, bowed, and clapped his hands three times,
+which is the act of devotion of all Shintoites on their approaching any
+temple. In the rear there was another temple which we saw only from the
+outside; the guide told us that at this shrine Marquis Ito came to offer
+thanks for the success of the Chinese-Japanese war in 1894, and that
+Admiral Togo also came at the close of the Russian-Japanese war. It is
+estimated that at least half a million pilgrims repair annually to the
+Temple of Ise, but the educated class seldom visits the place,&mdash;perhaps
+not more than once in a lifetime.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image123.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="The Temple of Ise (Yamada)" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Temple_of_Ise_Yamada" id="The_Temple_of_Ise_Yamada"></a>The Temple of Ise (Yamada)</span></div>
+
+<p>We then drove eight miles to Futami, a seaside resort with a pretty
+Japanese tea-house fronting the water. Here is a peculiar formation of
+rock called "The Husband and Wife Rocks," connected by a chain. The
+bazar is quite interesting, and we had our luncheon at the tea-house,
+served in Japanese style, which means that we would have had nothing but
+tea if our thoughtful guide had not brought a basket with us. The return
+trip of eight miles was over a little different route, more picturesque
+even than the first. Arriving at Yamada, we went to the outer Temple of
+Ise. Here, as in the inner temple, there is a large house for sacred
+dances.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">250</a></span></p><p>Many tea-houses in Yamada furnish music during the evening. We visited
+a very artistic place, said to be five hundred years old, and there we
+saw one of the sacred dances peculiar to that province.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Nagoya" id="Nagoya"></a>Nagoya</span>, <i>April 25th</i>: We left in the morning for Nagoya, and were guests
+at the Nagoya Hotel. This is a flourishing, commercial city, with one of
+the longest and widest streets we had seen in Japan. The garrison
+occupies the castle, whose approach is the same as in the olden
+time&mdash;through gates and past moats. This castle was erected in 1610 by
+twenty great feudal lords to serve as a residence for Ieyasu's son. Like
+other Japanese castles, it is a wooden building, standing on immense
+walls which are eighteen feet thick. The castle has been taken by the
+Imperial household and is preserved as a monument of historical
+interest. The two golden dolphins with silver eyes which can be seen
+glittering all over the city from the top of the five-story donjon were
+made in 1610 at the expense of the celebrated general, Kato Kiyomosa,
+who also built the donjon, or keep.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image124.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="Nagoya Castle" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Nagoya_Castle" id="Nagoya_Castle"></a>Nagoya Castle</span></div>
+
+<p>The apartments of the castle are very beautiful. The sliding screens
+between the rooms and the wooden doors separating the different suites
+are all adorned with paintings of flowers and birds. Leaving these
+apartments, we visited the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span>historic donjon, a gloomy building of stone
+on the exterior, but furnished with wooden staircases within. The fifth
+story commands an extensive view of the town, the sea, and the vast
+plain,&mdash;rice-fields and mountains stretching in the distance. The roofs
+of the keep are of copper, and its massive gates are cased in iron.</p>
+
+<p>Nagoya is noted for its manufacture of porcelain and cloisonn&eacute;. There is
+one celebrated Buddhist temple, Higashi Hongwanji, and the Museum. There
+are also extensive parks and parade grounds. In the evening of our stay
+there, the unexpected occurred. We had known for some time of the
+approaching Imperial Cherry Blossom Garden Party at Tokio. A telegram
+arrived, stating that our invitations awaited us in Yokohama; we were
+most fortunate, since they were in great demand. A hurried consultation
+followed, but as the remainder of the party expected to sail for San
+Francisco on May 13th, they declined to change their programme, while I
+accepted the invitation, having two weeks' more time in Japan during
+June; I regretfully bade adieu to the party, and the following morning
+proceeded to Yokohama.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Yokohama" id="Yokohama"></a>Yokohama</span>, <i>April 26th</i>: The next two weeks I was to be thrown upon my
+own responsibility. I arrived at Yokohama in the evening and
+anticipated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">252</a></span> a departure the following morning for Tokio. A pouring
+rain, however, caused an unexpected postponement. There were many
+disappointed guests in the Tokio hotels which were crowded in view of
+the great annual event. This is said to be very beautiful in all its
+appointments, the profusion of cherry blossoms being an attraction, as
+is the presence of the Emperor and Empress. The rain abating at noon,
+the grounds of the Crown Prince's palace were opened and the persons who
+were in Tokio availed themselves of the privilege of visiting them. A
+fine collation was served. The Emperor and Empress, however, did not
+appear, and the usual extremely formal ceremonies were dispensed with.
+It is the custom to give the inmates of the hospitals in Tokio a rare
+feast from what is left of the banquet. I had a busy day in Yokohama,
+which I found an attractive modern city, with beautiful shops, pleasant
+hotels, and a great crowd of visitors. I left early the following
+morning, April 28th, for Nikko.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Nikko" id="Nikko"></a>Nikko</span>, <i>April 28th</i>: The sky was overcast when we started, and before
+noon there was a heavy rain which prevented any enjoyment of the really
+fine landscape. The Japanese proverb in substance runs: "Do not use the
+word 'magnificent' until you have seen Nikko." This had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">253</a></span> been ringing in
+my ears all the way, and to be compelled to proceed through the long
+street of the village in a closed jinrikisha was tantalizing. The Nikko
+Hotel was to have been my destination, but I met friends on the train
+and was persuaded to accompany them to the new Kanaya Hotel, situated
+nearer the village on a height. My programme in Nikko could only include
+three days; hence I decided that a study of the various temples, a
+general view of the city, and an excursion to Lake Chuzenji must
+suffice.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning the sun was shining, and I departed early to visit
+the temples. The way lay down to the river Daiya-gawa. From the bridge
+in actual use and at a short distance I beheld the "Red Bridge,"
+formerly lacquered and having brass ornaments, sacred to royal use only,
+and held in veneration by the Japanese. A long avenue of cryptomerias
+followed. This tree is like the redwood of California when used in the
+interior of a building; indeed, after a long period of time, the
+coloring is precisely the same. This I noticed in the Imperial palaces
+at Kyoto.</p>
+
+<p>I walked up the avenue with a feeling of awe, and it seemed as if the
+whole atmosphere of Nikko was surcharged with an element of sanctity,
+and that no one could gaze on the mountains and the groves of
+cryptomerias without<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">254</a></span> being somewhat better than before. At the end of
+the avenue the perspective is wonderful, for one looks through a series
+of great stone toriis, gray with age, and sees along the way objects
+that are of interest, a five-story pagoda being the most striking. This
+approach is to the great Temple of Ieyasu, the illustrious Shogun and
+founder of the Tokugawa dynasty and, like the other great temple and
+mausoleum of his grandson, Iemitzu (farther on), was erected in the
+seventeenth century, at a time when the art of building shrines was at
+its perfection, as was the work in lacquer and bronze, wood carving and
+decorative painting. Every detail is perfect, and the great predominance
+of red and gold lacquer with its setting of green produced a striking
+effect, but without being in the least garish. Indeed, the keynote to
+all the buildings and interiors we have seen in Japan, of any age
+whatsoever, has been chasteness of design and harmony. If we sometimes
+find a discordant note in modern Japanese art, I fear Western taste has
+had some influence, if it be true that the producer ever seeks to please
+the purchaser.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image125.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="The way to the Temple, Ieyasu" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_way_to_the_Temple_Ieyasu" id="The_way_to_the_Temple_Ieyasu"></a>The way to the Temple, Ieyasu</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image126.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Kokamon_Iemitzu_Temple" id="Kokamon_Iemitzu_Temple"></a>Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple</span></div>
+
+<p>With all this perfection on every side, it becomes even more difficult
+to give any adequate description, so that an outline comprising only
+general details will be suggested. A quotation explains my position
+fully. Dr. Dresser once <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">255</a></span>wrote: "Any words that I can use must fail to
+convey any adequate idea of the consciousness of the work, the
+loveliness of the compositions, the harmoniousness of the colors, and
+the beauty of the surroundings here before me; and yet the adjectives
+which I have tried to heap one upon another, in the hope of conveying to
+the reader what I&mdash;an architect and ornamentist&mdash;feel when contemplating
+these matchless shrines, must appear, I am afraid, altogether
+unreasonable." The difficulty is further added to by the fact that there
+are in all six groups of temples with numerous associated buildings and
+gateways in the near vicinity, although Ieyasu and Iemitzu are the most
+famous.</p>
+
+<p>The approach to Ieyasu Temple is most unusual. Within the two courts,
+each with toriis and stone steps, are many notable adjuncts to the
+temples, the five-story pagoda, one hundred and four feet high, being a
+marvel of rich lacquered walls. It has peculiar brass-trimmed roofs and
+bells hanging from every angle. Three artistic buildings are used as
+storehouses, where articles employed in worship, pictures, and many
+treasures of Ieyasu are deposited. Near by is a finely carved gateway
+leading to a beautiful carved water cistern which is cut out of one
+solid piece of granite and sheltered by a roof supported on twelve
+square pillars of stone, all erected in 1618. A beautifully decorated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">256</a></span>
+building behind this is the depository for the complete collection of
+the Buddhist scriptures, contained in a fine revolving octagonal
+bookcase with red lacquered panels and gilt pillars. In the centre of
+this court stands a fine bronze torii. A flight of steps gives access to
+the second court. Just inside of this are two stone lions in the act of
+leaping down; on the right stand a bell tower, a bronze candelabrum
+presented by the King of Loochoo, and another bell presented by the King
+of Korea; there is also a bronze candelabrum from Holland. This
+diversity of gifts indicates the general interest at that time in this
+shrine. All of these articles are of very unusual style of workmanship.</p>
+
+<p>At the left extremity of this same platform stands the Temple of
+Wakushi, dedicated to the patron saint of Ieyasu, for which reason its
+Buddhist emblems have been left intact. The building is a blaze of gold
+and harmonious colors. Stone steps lead up to the exquisitely beautiful
+gate called Yomei-mon; it has a fence on each side. Passing through the
+gateway, we entered the third court, in which the Buddhist priests used
+to offer liturgies on the occasions of the two great annual festivals.
+In this court are also two buildings, one containing a stage for the
+performance of the sacred dance, and the other an altar for burning the
+fragrant cedar while prayers were recited. Next we have the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">257</a></span> Karu-mon
+or Chinese gate. It gives admittance to the main shrines. The folding
+doors of the oratory are lavishly decorated with arabesques of peonies,
+in gilt relief.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 334px;">
+<img src="images/image127.jpg" width="334" height="500" alt="A five-story pagoda_two" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_five-story_pagoda_two" id="A_five-story_pagoda_two"></a>A five-story pagoda</span></div>
+
+<p>The chapel is a large matted room, forty-two feet long by twenty-seven
+feet deep, with an antechamber at each end. The chapel and the
+antechambers are all very profusely decorated with pictures on the
+walls, with carved panels and painted ceilings. The Holy of Holies of
+this temple is accessible to the public only by special permit. It is
+composed of three chambers, and here Japanese Buddhist art is exhibited
+in its perfection,&mdash;a blaze of gold and color, with its elaborate
+paintings of court personages, its precious woods, inlaid and carved,
+and its richly lacquered pillars and splendid metal work&mdash;the whole a
+marvel of detail, all the more marvellous because it is in perfect
+preservation. Now that it has been changed into a Shinto shrine and is
+under the patronage of the Government, the Buddhas and attendant Buddhas
+of the olden time are no longer to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>An old mossy staircase and a time-worn pavement lead to Ieyasu's tomb,
+before which stand two long tables. Here are placed the usual bronze
+ornaments, consisting of a stork, an incense burner, and a vase of
+bronze lotus flowers. The tomb, shaped like a small pagoda,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">258</a></span> has a
+single bronze casting of a light color, produced, it is said, by a
+mixture of gold. Leaving the mausoleum, I passed down through the courts
+and gateways until I came to the avenue of cryptomerias, visiting a
+number of temples on the way, and finally I reached Iemitzu's temple. A
+massive stone staircase and a fine gateway are among the many details of
+an attractive exterior that claim attention. The temple is much less
+magnificent than Ieyasu's, but a more perfect representation of the
+Buddhist art, inasmuch as here can be seen the interior as it was
+originally. After the restoration in 1886, the interiors of all the
+other temples were changed to meet the requirements of the Shinto faith,
+that being the State religion. The tomb is reached by a flight of steps
+running up the side of the wall. It is of the same general style as that
+of Ieyasu. In the afternoon a walk back of the temple of Ieyasu revealed
+more stone lanterns, shrines, and toriis.</p>
+
+<p>At Nikko the homes are attractive, with their open space and their
+verandas. The Park and Botanical Garden are also not without interest.
+Sometimes a shrine could be seen, and with the inmates dressed in pretty
+kimonos, it was truly a fascinating picture, unlike anything that had
+elsewhere struck our fancy. The invariable smile, bow, and courtesy that
+always greet you<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">259</a></span> place a finishing and charming touch to the whole.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image128.jpg" width="500" height="340" alt="The gate called Yomei-mon" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_gate_called_Yomei-mon" id="The_gate_called_Yomei-mon"></a>The gate called Yomei-mon</span></div>
+
+<p>The bazar or long street of shops was enticing, with so many souvenirs
+to choose from. The thoroughfare itself presented a never-ending
+panorama of carts, packhorses, natives, pilgrims, and tourists.</p>
+
+<p>There were several tempting excursions of two or three miles each, the
+most celebrated of which was to Lake Chuzenji, eight miles distant. This
+required an early morning departure in a jinrikisha. The ride there was
+through a region which affords a fine example of the Japanese method of
+cultivating the soil. The little homes were attractive. Potatoes, rice,
+and millet seemed to be the principal crops. Chuzenji Lake is a marvel
+of beauty, with its many walks along the shore. Luncheon was served at
+the hotel. It is estimated that ten thousand pilgrims come to the
+village during July and August to make the ascent to the sacred
+mountain, Nantaisan, two thousand feet above the sea-level. This is not
+so very difficult, since at points there are stairways that give ready
+access. Shrines and tea-houses are stationed all along the road, as the
+Japanese never neglect creature comforts. Eight miles further on is
+situated Yunoto village and the lake which bears the same name and is
+celebrated for its hot springs. This place is said to be as attractive
+as Lake Chuzenji.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">260</a></span> We left Nikko on an early morning train with a strong
+desire some day to return and make a more protracted stay.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Tokio" id="Tokio"></a>Tokio</span>, <i>April 30th</i>: Leaving Nikko, with an altitude of two thousand
+feet higher than the sea, for Tokio, one hundred miles distant and at
+sea-level, was a decided drop. The day was bright and the views from the
+car window gave one an ever-varying panorama, consisting of mountains, a
+long avenue of tall cryptomerias that seemed to extend for miles,
+cultivated fields, and luxuriant vegetation freshened by the recent
+rain. Nature put forth her loveliest Spring tints, to which cherry
+blossoms ever and anon gave a touch of color. Arriving at Tokio in the
+afternoon, and going to the Imperial Hotel, I had a two days' reunion
+with eight of the "party" who had already arrived there. We took a
+general drive on the first afternoon, past the palace built on the ruins
+of the old Shogun palace, in its new guise a long rambling building of
+yellow brick. The old gateways with their towers were at the front
+entrance and were a feature of the scene. The arrangement of the rooms
+in the interior of the palace was said to be pleasing, the dining-room
+being unusually large. The walls and decorations are also fine, but the
+furnishings, a mixture of Japanese and European styles, are not so
+harmonious.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">261</a></span> We also passed the Crown Prince's palace, and then went on
+from Hibiya Park to the street on which are situated the brick buildings
+of the Naval Department, the Judicial Department, and the Courts of
+Justice.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image129.jpg" width="500" height="340" alt="The Imperial Palace at Tokio" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Imperial_Palace_at_Tokio" id="The_Imperial_Palace_at_Tokio"></a>The Imperial Palace at Tokio</span></div>
+
+<p>We saw the Russian Embassy, the Chinese Legation, and also some palaces
+and residences of many officers and foreign embassies. This
+neighborhood, called Nagata-cha, is the most fashionable in Tokio. Near
+the palace lies a garden planted with azaleas, and also containing some
+trellises wholly covered in season with wistaria. We also passed a fine
+Shinto temple and several statues, and, on an eminence, saw the Russian
+Cathedral, consecrated in 1891.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning we went to Shiba Park. Until 1887 this formed the
+grounds of a great Buddhist temple, and here are still preserved the
+mortuary temples of several Tokugawa Shoguns, Ieyasu, the founder of
+that dynasty, having chosen it as the temple where the funeral tablets
+of himself and of his descendants should be enshrined. There are several
+temples in the park, and they rank among the chief marvels of Japanese
+art. They are somewhat after the style of the temples at Nikko. All of
+them have a wonderful setting of green, the many fine trees and the
+beautiful park forming an excellent background. Each of these mortuary
+temples consists of three parts, an outer oratory, a connecting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">262</a></span>
+gallery, and an inner sanctuary. In each of these the decorations are of
+gilt and different colors, with elaborate patterns which are almost
+dazzling to the eye.</p>
+
+<p>On one occasion we visited Ueno Park, famed for its temples and tombs of
+the Shoguns; it is a most popular resort in Tokio, and is celebrated for
+its display of cherry blossoms in the month of April, during which
+season there are held gala times. Six Shoguns, members of the Tokugawa
+family, lie buried at Ueno. In general style the tombs here resemble
+those at Shiba Park.</p>
+
+<p>There are many objects of interest in Ueno Park other than its temples.
+One is the bronze image of Buddha, twenty-one and a half feet high,
+known as Dai-butsu, near which is a massive torii. We passed along an
+avenue of stately cryptomerias where stands an ancient pagoda. There is
+also a long row of very large stone lanterns, presented as a tribute to
+the memory of the Shogun, Ieyasu. While in Ueno Park the attendant
+pointed out, in a small enclosure, two diminutive trees,&mdash;a hinoki,
+planted by General Grant, and a magnolia by Mrs. Grant during their
+visit to Tokio.</p>
+
+<p>The Ueno Museum proved interesting, particularly in the historical and
+arch&aelig;ological departments. Near the Museum is a public library and
+reading-room&mdash;the largest in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">263</a></span> Empire. In the distance we saw the
+Imperial University, which has a very high reputation, even foreign
+students attending there for the purpose of studying art.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image130.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Court of the Temple Shiba at Tokio" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Court_of_the_Temple_Shiba_at_Tokio" id="Court_of_the_Temple_Shiba_at_Tokio"></a>Court of the Temple Shiba at Tokio</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Asakusa</span>: The district of Asakusa possesses a fine park, and here also is
+the spacious Temple of Higashi Hongwanji, the chief religious edifice of
+the Monto sect of Buddhists. It is very plain in its architecture, but
+is noted principally for its proportions. The area of the matted floor
+of the nave alone is one hundred and fifty mats, and around the front
+and sides is a wooden aisle one hundred and twelve feet wide.</p>
+
+<p>Tokio has many other temples and parks, but of these, as I have said,
+Ueno is the most popular; around us were crowds of gayly dressed grown
+people and children, all in holiday attire; various games for adults and
+children were in progress, and there was a tea-house where refreshments
+were being served. To me this appeared in very truth a park for the
+people.</p>
+
+<p>The Botanical Garden is also quite interesting. A long, imposing street
+led down to it from Ueno Park, and on this were situated the principal
+shops of the city, with curio nooks in abundance. These, of course, were
+larger and more pretentious than the bazars spoken of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">264</a></span> elsewhere, some
+of them being three stories in height, the first of the kind we had seen
+in Japan. Taken as a whole, Tokio is a large, populous city, with a
+bright future before it. I now was obliged to turn my face toward
+Yokohama, it being a comparatively short distance from Tokio. Here I
+found a number of friends whom I had met at different points and who
+were about to leave for San Francisco,&mdash;my own departure for <a name="North_China" id="North_China"></a>North China
+to occur the following morning.</p>
+
+<p>To visit North China, I was compelled to return to Shanghai in order to
+join the Collver Tours party I had met at Kyoto. I left Yokohama on
+March 3d by rail for Kobe, arriving at the Oriental Hotel about 9 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>
+The route by day was very pleasant, as we saw much fine scenery, and for
+some time Mt. Fujiyama rose before us in the distance. At Kobe I found
+that the steamer, <i>Mongolia</i>, would be delayed, and therefore I would
+need to remain there until the second day. The following morning, I took
+a jinrikisha ride to the country and revisited several points of
+interest.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image131.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Gate of Chionin in Kyoto" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Gate_of_Chionin_in_Kyoto" id="Gate_of_Chionin_in_Kyoto"></a>Gate of Chionin in Kyoto</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image132.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Ueno Park Pagoda" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Ueno_Park_Pagoda" id="Ueno_Park_Pagoda"></a>Ueno Park Pagoda</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><i>June 6th</i>: I was awakened at seven on the morning of June 6th by the
+voice of the guide saying, "We are now in the narrowest part of the
+Inland Sea." I arose quickly, and,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">265</a></span> glancing out of the port-hole,
+beheld a scene of loveliness which caused a spontaneous exclamation,
+"Oh, how beautiful!" Before me on the left was an island clad in
+verdure; behind, the towering mountains; then farther off, a lesser
+peak, sloping down to the sea; a promontory jutted out at the right,
+ribbed with terraces from which peeped forth tiny shoots of delicate
+green. Scarcely had I time to catch a glimpse before the panorama
+changed. This scene was repeated with slight variations until suddenly
+there appeared a break, and in a cove were moored many little boats;
+next came a tall mountain sloping down to the sea, with a wealth of
+foliage along the side, while on the top was a fringe of tall trees,
+like so many hills seen in Japan. I had cause to wonder if this too was
+not one of the many expressions of Nature's artistic sense.</p>
+
+<p>One scene succeeded another, and I became almost oblivious to all
+thought of dressing until the gong rang for breakfast. I felt
+rebellious, and, on that morning at least, the meal seemed a
+desecration, the sacrifice of an opportunity. Once before, I had a
+similar early morning experience; that was at Laggan, on the Canadian
+Pacific Railway, when, on awakening, I beheld directly opposite my
+window lovely Lake Louise and the beautiful glacier mirrored within the
+opalescent blue. This day in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">266</a></span> Japan ended with a glorious sunset, and,
+as the gold and azure melted away into nothingness, it was a fitful
+close to hours of rare enjoyment.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning following, I was again awakened, this time by the magic
+word Nagasaki, and I beheld another never-to-be-forgotten scene. The
+harbor and shipping lay in the foreground; beyond the shore line rose
+large buildings, smaller ones creeping up the mountain side; this whole
+panorama was bathed in sunlight. Immediately on landing a jinrikisha
+ride was enjoyed, and I was propelled about in an aimless fashion,
+enjoying the street scenes, visiting the heights, and the Horse's
+Temple. It was a restless, irresponsible kind of day that I enjoyed, and
+I returned to the steamer at five o'clock with considerable regret. Half
+an hour later we were sailing away for Shanghai; and again we saw
+islands, promontories, and inlets quite like those of the day previous.</p>
+
+<p>On Saturday morning, the 9th, we were anchored at Wusong, waiting for
+the arrival of the health officer. Thereafter we took a ride of an hour
+in the steam launch. Shanghai seemed more European on our second
+arrival, and the Bund on the front more attractive. We made the Palace
+Hotel our destination, and learned with regret of the non-arrival of the
+Trans-Siberian party from Manila. Some steamer friends and other
+acquaintances were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">267</a></span> at Shanghai, and the time passed pleasantly amongst
+them.</p>
+
+<p>I attended divine service at St. John's Cathedral on Sunday morning, and
+in the evening the delayed party arrived; I was so fortunate as to have
+two home friends among the number.</p>
+
+<p>Monday began by a general tour of sight-seeing for the party; to a
+certain extent I thus went over the ground again, taking jinrikisha
+rides through a portion of the European native city, and visiting the
+entire French concession. French names were on the business houses and
+on many of the streets. This concession is governed by a municipality of
+its own.</p>
+
+<p>Four restful days were passed at Shanghai, and at ten on the evening of
+May 12th, we went to our steamer, the <i>Tuck-Wo</i>, for a trip on the
+celebrated Yangtse River. The steamer was large and airy, with pleasant
+decks; everything wore a thoroughly homelike air. The scenery on the
+lower Yangtse is rather flat and disappointing, but in the morning there
+were some vegetation and many agreeable glimpses of life, with vistas of
+modest homes and little patches of cultivated ground around them. The
+shores were covered with tall vegetation which, we were told, grows
+quite tall and is then cut, dried, and used as fuel by the natives. At
+first, during our trip, there had been only a low fringe of trees in the
+distant background; now mountains<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">268</a></span> appeared as a striking variation, and
+thus we had alternating scenes which added to the spatial interest from
+this time on. There were occasional picturesque points and promontories
+that jutted out into the sea; clustering around, were many large and
+smaller craft; once I counted thirty-six in one place.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer anchored at Chang-wang-kong on the second evening, and we
+were permitted to go ashore for two hours. We had noticed a brilliantly
+lighted building, four stories high, every window gleaming and
+presenting an imposing appearance; we naturally expected some artistic
+effect in the interior, but, when we came to visit it, the illusion
+vanished, as the first and second stories were cut up into small rooms,
+each filled with Chinese folk intent upon securing their evening meal;
+adjacent rooms were devoted to the culinary operations. Dirt and
+confusion and odors permeated everywhere, and we declined to ascend to
+the upper story, where the Chinese game of fan-tan was in progress.
+Certain homelike English buildings clung near the water front, and we
+walked through the usual crowded Chinese streets. The town was laid out
+in one long thoroughfare, overlooking the water and sloping backward to
+the lesser mountains. We returned, content with the good cheer aboard
+our steamer, and were soon sailing on.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image133.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Little_Orphan_Rock_in_the_Yangtse_River" id="The_Little_Orphan_Rock_in_the_Yangtse_River"></a>The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">269</a></span></p><p>We passed Nanking, formerly the southern capital of China and once a
+place of great importance&mdash;indeed, a seat of learning and of art. Only
+the distant walls could be seen. A little north of Nanking are located
+two of the Ming tombs.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning, at eleven, we were again permitted to land, this
+time at Wu-ho, quite a large town and evidently the centre for several
+industries. After wandering through a few native streets, we took
+jinrikishas and visited the heights above. Here was situated a fine
+garden filled with rose trees all in bloom, the property of the son of
+the noted statesman, Li Hung Chang. This was said to be one of his many
+palaces; at present he is Minister to England. The afternoon afforded us
+a variety of points of interest to seek out; long low islands, boldly
+defined mountains, an occasional village, and coves filled with shipping
+of all kinds, from the sampan to the five-sail junk. The shores were
+clothed with the wonderful green of Spring, which, to my mind, was
+excelled only by the matchless verdure of Java.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of May 15th we met with constant surprises; first, there
+was the boldly defined little Orphan Rock, the seat of a Buddhist
+monastery which contained, however, only a small retinue of monks. Two
+hours later, on the left side of the Yangtse River, there appeared<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">270</a></span> for
+the first time a long avenue of trees near the water's edge, while
+beyond it was a range of mountains higher than we had seen. Nestling
+between two mountains which seemed to hug the water was a village with a
+remarkable wall stretching from one peak to the other, and curving down,
+thus encircling the town; this wall had a crenellated edge and was
+perfectly preserved.</p>
+
+<p>The mountain range continued for some time, and then was succeeded by
+the more prevailing flat shore, which soon merged again into mountains.
+Perched high up on a projecting hill, another monastery gleamed white
+through the encircling trees. We sailed onward toward the right, and the
+Captain pointed out on our left the entrance to Lake Poyang, which shone
+in the distance, and rising boldly out of which could be dimly seen the
+greater Orphan Island, where towered a large pagoda said to be two
+hundred and fifty feet high. From now on, the scenery changed rapidly,
+and first one side of the shore and then the other side claimed our
+attention and admiration; the river being very wide, and the steamer
+also constantly changing its course, we were thus given a fine
+opportunity for observation.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image134.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Road to Kaling above Kia-Kiang" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Road_to_Kaling_above_Kia-Kiang" id="Road_to_Kaling_above_Kia-Kiang"></a>Road to Kaling above Kia-Kiang</span></div>
+
+<p>Our next excitement occurred when we approached Kia-kiang. We first saw
+a high rocky promontory on which a tall seven-story pagoda <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">271</a></span>stood, like
+a veritable sentinel; rounding the point, a long shore line was
+protected by a seawall which stretched to the extreme point of land
+where Kia-kiang is situated. Near the pagoda were homes and native
+buildings, then some business houses; farther back from the shore rose
+another towering pagoda, and farther still another, while a tiny temple
+was perched on an eminence. Embowered in trees, we also found the white
+homes of foreign residents, presumably English. There was a great deal
+of shipping in port which gave evidence of the city's being a business
+centre. Three hours' time was given us on land, but few availed
+themselves of the privilege because of a heavy rain. On leaving
+Kia-kiang a low shore was seen, then a long island, covered with homes
+of a simple kind, with their little gardens; every inch of ground was
+under cultivation. The shades of night soon shut off our view, but at 9
+<span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we were again anchored&mdash;this time at Wu-such. Only the gleaming
+lights in the distance were visible. Two more places were to be passed
+during the night, Wang-tu-kiang and Wen-chou; and Hankow was to confront
+us on the morrow.</p>
+
+<p>The Yangtse River rises three thousand miles away, near Tibet, and
+covers the whole of the Empire; thus far we had traversed six hundred
+miles of it. Despite what we praised, however,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">272</a></span> we could not help
+longing to meet with the bolder scenery which a longer trip would have
+revealed to us. A heavy rain prevented much sight-seeing at Hankow on
+the first day, which was fortunately Sunday; thus we received our
+initial impressions of the city from the steamer, a view which took in a
+long Bund, fronting the water's edge, and filled with fine buildings,
+evidently of a European style of architecture; we were told that they
+were the different homes of the English, French, and German consulates,
+the French even having a special park attached to theirs. At the extreme
+left were large business houses and a club. Hankow is a great depository
+for tea, and, with the two adjacent cities of Han-yang and Wu-chang, it
+has an immense population, reaching into the millions. Many religious
+denominations are said to be represented in Hankow, but we saw no
+pretentious churches. The harbor or water-front has a stone embankment;
+a large amount of shipping is to be seen, many of the boats being of
+peculiar construction.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image135.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The Hankow bund" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Hankow_bund" id="The_Hankow_bund"></a>The Hankow bund</span></div>
+
+<p>The following morning, we had a few hours in which to view the city
+before taking the train for Peking. We first visited the native quarter.
+The heavy rain of the previous day caused a great deal of mud, and as we
+attempted to drive through the narrow streets and bazars, the dirt
+floors of the little homes and shops <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">273</a></span>were a sea of mud, while the
+inmates were preparing breakfast and attending to other domestic
+avocations in perfect unconcern; it was certainly not an inspiring
+scene, and the worst native quarter we had visited during our stay in
+China. We did not extend our observation very far, but turned to the
+more attractive Bund, which is about three miles in extent. Here we had
+a nearer view of the consulates, from each of which a street led down to
+the water's edge. In the French concession we noticed the same naming of
+streets and buildings that we had seen in Shanghai; this was also true
+of the German and English concessions, thus making of each a little
+miniature city. There is a fine English club at Hankow, and a long line
+of tea factories called godowns; the odor of tea was distinctly
+noticeable for three blocks. From May to the middle of July the tea
+industry of Hankow is great, and large numbers of dealers and
+speculators interested in the business congregate there.</p>
+
+<p>We took the train at 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> for Peking, with every expectation of
+arriving there at 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Peking" id="Peking"></a>Peking</span>, <i>March 18th</i>: The railway trip from Hankow to Peking is not
+interesting, for it is largely over a vast extent of plain without
+foliage or vegetation. Occasionally we passed small towns with a few
+planted trees. The latter part<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">274</a></span> of the way seemed almost like a desert;
+there being little to observe, one had time to reflect, and, in some
+inscrutable manner, the immensity of China, its extreme age, its teeming
+population, and its unreality, judged by Western standards, began to
+dawn on me. I had previously failed to realize that I was actually in
+China. Having seen the Chinese at several points before reaching
+Hong-Kong, that city with its English environment did not impress me
+greatly. Canton seemed an unrelated place, a kind of a by-play. The
+Shanghai I knew was modern.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached Peking, we caught a glimpse of the Great Wall, a
+massive gray bulk, with the immense corner tower, which produced a
+feeling of awe, standing as though it were an entrance into a city of
+mystery&mdash;a walled town of over twenty miles in circumference which was
+virtually the product of four walled cities in one. We were housed in
+the new and spacious Grand H&ocirc;tel des Wagons-lits. Our stay was to cover
+just a little over a week; hence vigorous sight-seeing was at once
+inaugurated, and the first impression received was the great age of
+everything that surrounded us.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image136.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The Great Wall at Peking" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Great_Wall_at_Peking" id="The_Great_Wall_at_Peking"></a>The Great Wall at Peking</span></div>
+
+<p>Peking was made the capital of the whole Empire by Mongol Kublai Khan,
+the Wise, a munificent ruler who laid the foundation plan of what we see
+to-day; but the origin of the city dates back some centuries before the
+Christian <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">275</a></span>era. The Ming Dynasty extended over nearly three centuries;
+then China, being threatened by an invasion of the Manchus from the
+north, was aided in her resistance by the Manchus at home, and, through
+a peculiar combination, they secured possession of the throne and have
+held it ever since. The foreign rule is hated by the true Chinese.</p>
+
+<p>The four sections of Peking are: (1) The Forbidden City, called the
+Purple City by the Chinese because formerly only purple mortar was used.
+It consists virtually of a palace and adjacent buildings, and embraces a
+population of nearly six thousand. This portion of the city has for ages
+been closed to foreigners, with the exception of a few months
+immediately after the Boxer trouble in 1900, when excursions to the
+Forbidden City were made, photographs secured, and also a small
+guide-book prepared. (2) The Imperial City surrounds the Forbidden City,
+and is now in great part closed. (3) The Tartar City surrounds the
+Imperial City, and is called the "city within" because it lies within
+the walls. (4) The Chinese or Southern City is south of the Tartar City,
+and extends somewhat beyond it to the east and west.</p>
+
+<p>Next to the Great Wall, the gateways should demand our interest. There
+are several, and Hata-men is the one which we frequently passed through.
+It was always thronged. The most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">276</a></span> densely crowded entrance, however, was
+the Chinese gate, Chien-men; here, at times, it was almost impossible
+for the jinrikisha to make a passage. The street scenes in Peking are
+wonderful because of their variety, and the length of the streets adds
+to their picturesqueness, although they are not quite so spectacular as
+those of Jeypore, India.</p>
+
+<p>Many different styles of dress are seen. I noticed the long flowing robe
+of the Manchu women, with the Manchu head-dress and a remarkable
+arrangement of hair on a frame, spreading at the back with a sort of
+elongated butterfly effect, and held in place by a bright gold hairpin.
+The bands of hair are brought over in a way to give the impression of
+long loops, and they are decorated with bright flowers. The Manchu women
+are taller than the Chinese women, and walk with a statelier tread, as
+their feet have never been bound, the present Empress many years ago
+having issued an edict prohibiting that custom. The edict is, however,
+evaded, as Chinese fathers and husbands insist that the custom be kept
+up, seeming to imagine that abolishing it would have some peculiar
+effect on the character of the wife, perhaps resulting in
+insubordination. The Chinese women part their glossy black hair in the
+middle, wear it in smooth bands down the side of the forehead, and dress
+it in the back in a great variety of low loops.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">277</a></span> They also wear
+jewelled and gold hairpins that are really very artistic. Their dress
+consists of the long black sack coat and loose trousers, much like those
+of a man. The children of Peking, unlike those of the Orient, where
+clothes are virtually dispensed with, wear long-sleeved, high-necked
+garments reaching to the feet.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image137.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Hata-men Gate" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Hata-men_Gate" id="Hata-men_Gate"></a>Hata-men Gate</span></div>
+
+<p>The bazars and shopping streets in Peking were interesting, many of the
+buildings rising four stories in height, and having the same long narrow
+decorated signs that I described in Canton. At intervals along the way
+very high poles are erected, and on these are placed different kinds of
+signs, giving these streets a brilliant appearance. The usual throng of
+dealers and of diverse nationalities are represented, resulting in a
+great deal of bustle and activity, a great deal of noise and dirt. The
+crowds around some of the gateways included rows of vehicles and
+sometimes a group of camels; but the most individual of all conveyances
+is the Peking cart; indeed, I have never seen any inanimate object that
+wore so individual an air, and when viewed in large numbers, their
+appearance is most peculiar. This cart is two-wheeled, with a roof, and
+with sides and back enclosed. One horse is used. In the front opening
+sits the driver, some one usually at his side, while behind him, far in
+the back, may be seen the faces of the occupants peering out.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">278</a></span> Many of
+the carts used by the ordinary people have no windows or openings on the
+side; others have windows covered with a kind of netting which admits
+some air.</p>
+
+<p>The Llama Temple is considered to be one of the most important places to
+visit; it is in the eastern quarter of the Tartar City. The rule has
+been that just as soon as an emperor ascends the throne, the palace that
+he had previously occupied shall be changed into a temple. Such was the
+origin of the Llama Temple, once presided over by three thousand Mongol
+Llamas, and, at the head of them, a living Buddha. The temple has six
+parts: first the outside gate, then the entrance gate, then a large hall
+of very imposing proportions, in front of this a tablet upon which is
+inscribed the history of Llamaism. Before this tablet rests a bronze
+incense burner eight feet high, and on the southwest wall of the temple
+hangs a picture of the universe, upheld by the four-clawed feet of a
+huge sea-monster with three eyes. There are also three lofty pavilions.
+Beautiful silken rugs used to be laid on the floor of the impressive
+hall, and on the walls were very fine hangings. Many precious articles
+were carried away in 1900, at the time of the Boxer trouble, and some
+may still be hidden.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image138.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Peking girls" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Peking_girls" id="Peking_girls"></a>Peking girls</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image139.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Llama Temple" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Llama_Temple" id="Llama_Temple"></a>Llama Temple</span></div>
+
+<p>There is a colossal Buddha here of very evil countenance, towering three
+stories, and said to be seventy feet high. To those versed in Buddhist
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">279</a></span>lore, these buildings are full of interest; it is only within a few
+years that the place has been open to the public. The Llama monks
+present a very impressive appearance at their evening service, with
+their long gowns crossed over, and their high caps like ancient Roman
+casques.</p>
+
+<p>In construction, the Confucian Temple, near by, is similar to all
+Confucian temples throughout China; the hall is eighty-four feet long
+and the teakwood pillars forty feet high. In front there is a marble
+terrace, twenty-eight yards long and fifteen feet wide, reached on three
+sides by seventeen steps. The inscription on the Confucius tablet,
+written in Chinese and Manchu dialects, says: "The tablet of the soul of
+the most holy ancestral teacher, Confucius." Other tablets to noted
+teachers hang on either side. There are rows of cypresses in front of
+the hall said to have been planted one thousand years ago; and on each
+side of the court are buildings containing tablets to over one hundred
+celebrated scholars. A temple court extends in front, with six monuments
+which record foreign conquests by emperors. In the court of the
+Triennial Examinations there is a stone tablet to commemorate each
+session, on which are engraved the names and homes of all students who
+receive the title of Doctor of Literature.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">280</a></span></p><p>Another unique building, west of the Confucius Temple, is the Hall of
+the Classics. Here there is a richly decorated pailow, with encaustic
+tiles, chiefly green and yellow; the three archways are lined with white
+marble. This hall was designed by the Emperor, Chien Lung, to complete
+the Confucius Temple, in which till then the classics had been
+expounded. It is lofty and square, with double eaves, yellow tiles,
+surmounted by a specially large gilt ball, and encircled by a fringe
+carried to the roof and supported by massive wooden pillars. In the
+centre is a circular pool of water, edged by marble balustrades, with a
+bridge spanning it. There is also a remarkable sun-dial. Two hundred
+upright stone monuments engraved on both sides contain the complete text
+of the nine classics, very finely executed; it was thought thus to
+preserve the purity of the text. There are also more lists of successful
+students on stone monoliths.</p>
+
+<p>The Drum Tower was another point visited, one of the most striking
+objects in Peking; it is oblong and quite Chinese in character, the
+upper story being of wood, the lower of brick. It is one hundred feet
+high and about the same in length toward the base. It was built under
+the Mongol dynasty; a very large drum stands in the middle of the last
+story, and a climb of sixty-eight steps up a steep Chinese staircase<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">281</a></span>
+gave us a fine view of the entire city. A short distance from the Drum
+Tower is the Bell Tower. This is built of brick and stone, ninety feet
+high, and is also Mongol in origin; the bell weighs twenty thousand
+pounds and is still used to tell the watches of the night; the drum in
+the tower is struck at the same time.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image140.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="A Peking cart" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_Peking_cart" id="A_Peking_cart"></a>A Peking cart</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image141.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The Confucius Temple" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Confucius_Temple" id="The_Confucius_Temple"></a>The Confucius Temple</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image142.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Temple of Classics" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Temple_of_Classics" id="Temple_of_Classics"></a>Temple of Classics</span></div>
+
+<p>Some Chinese authority states that there are ten thousand temples in
+Peking, all built under the Mongol dynasty (thirteenth century), or the
+Ming dynasty (fifteenth and sixteenth centuries). Of these, the most
+striking is the Temple or Altar of Heaven in the southern part of the
+Chinese City, erected by the Ming Emperor, Yung-loh, in 1421; the
+enclosure, a fine park, measures about six thousand feet around. There
+are three large, imposing gates,&mdash;south, east, and west. To the north,
+the wall is crescent shaped and is without an entrance. The Altar or
+Temple of Heaven, open to the sky, is circular and of white marble. It
+is three stories high; the base measures two hundred and ten feet
+across, the second story one hundred and fifty feet, the third ninety
+feet. One large marble slab is in the centre. The white marble
+balustrades are richly carved to represent clouds. In the upper story,
+there are seventy-two pillars; in the middle, one hundred and eight; and
+in the lower, one hundred and eighty; thus making, in all, three hundred
+and sixty, the number<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">282</a></span> of degrees in a circle. It is on the central
+marble slab that the Emperor stands and prostrates himself, worshipping
+under the blue arch of heaven. He goes three times a year to this
+temple, praying before daybreak, and having spent the previous night in
+the Grand Hall of Abstinence close by.</p>
+
+<p>Between this and the closed Altar of Heaven, there is the small Temple
+of Prayer, where the ancestral tablets are kept, capped by one of the
+most remarkable roofs in Peking. This temple is a gem; its bricks and
+tiles are of the finest porcelain, and everything dates from the best
+period of Chinese art. The northern Temple of Heaven has a three-fold
+roof of blue tiles, recently rebuilt, the early one having been burned
+down. There are magnificent columns in this, and the ceiling is very
+elaborate. Before leaving the enclosure at the left of the gateway, we
+went through a large palace not in use at the present time, except on
+rare occasions; this was not in the itinerary, but our guide secured
+admission by paying a generous fee. Only a few rooms were furnished, but
+these were in excellent taste.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image143.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The Inner Temple of Heaven" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Inner_Temple_of_Heaven" id="The_Inner_Temple_of_Heaven"></a>The Inner Temple of Heaven</span></div>
+
+<p>We next drove to the Altar or Temple of Agriculture. This is where
+General Chaffee and the American troops were quartered after the relief
+of Peking in 1900. The hall is the largest in the city, but there is
+nothing special <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">283</a></span>to see in it. The rites observed here are nearly as
+important as those at the Temple of Heaven. The enclosure is two miles
+in circumference. The first two altars are rectangular; that of the
+Spirits of Heaven, on the east, is fifty feet long and four and one-half
+feet high; and the marble tablets therein contain the names of the
+celebrated mountains, lakes, and seas of China. On the first day of the
+second period of Spring, the Emperor goes there with three princes, nine
+great men, and a numerous following, all of them understood to be
+fasting. After they have worshipped, they proceed to the field which has
+been prepared; the bullock, the plough, and other accessories are all of
+Imperial yellow. The Emperor traces a furrow from east to west;
+returning four times, he thus makes eight furrows. The First Minister of
+the Treasury stands on the right with a whip, the Viceroy of the
+Province on the left with the grain, while a third official scatters the
+seed behind the Emperor. The three Princes each plough ten furrows, and
+so the work proceeds through all the dignitaries, according to their
+rank. The afternoon was one of the most interesting we spent in Peking,
+the temperature being perfect like our own June at home; all Nature was
+in harmony with the scene.</p>
+
+<p>The Observatory was formerly one of the most distinctive sights in
+Peking. It affords a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">284</a></span> magnificent view towards the south of the wall of
+the Tartar City. The wonderful bronze instruments therein have outlived
+their usefulness, but their artistic merit makes them a glory and a joy.
+The Examination Hall was formerly situated close by the site of the
+Observatory, but when we were there it was being dismantled. The old
+method of examination is being given up, and the reform is one of the
+progressive changes in Peking, upsetting the precedent of ages. The
+examination of students is now carried on very much as it is in other
+countries.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the city, we drove some miles along the outskirts to the Yellow
+Temple. There are two temples, the eastern and the western; and, in
+front, are two very beautiful pavilions. Chien Lung repaired the western
+temple and changed it into a dwelling for Mongol princes, who arrived
+each year to pay their tribute. This is one of the finest buildings in
+China; it has great size, beautiful proportions, and a square entrance
+porch; but, since its occupation in 1900 by some of the Allied Forces,
+it has begun to fall into ruins. The eastern temple is in good
+condition, and critics claim that its proportions surpass those of any
+temple in Japan. The magnificent white marble monument or pagoda was
+erected by Chien Lung over the grave of the Teshu Llama who died of
+small-pox while on a visit there. On the eight<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">285</a></span> sides of the memorial
+are engraved scenes in the Llama's life; these bas-reliefs are very
+interesting. The great White Temple is the most beautiful monument in
+the environs of Peking, and it is well worth the long drive to see it.
+On our return, we passed through the usual number of gates, from the
+Chinese to the Tartar, and from the Tartar to the Imperial; only a small
+portion of this latter section can be seen, but we caught glimpses of
+the many lovely buildings in the Forbidden City, and it was most
+tantalizing not to be able to enter the sacred precincts. From a sketch
+taken in 1900, we can form an idea of the many interesting points in
+this Forbidden City. The Imperial City, enclosing the Forbidden City, is
+over five miles in circumference; its walls are eighteen feet high, with
+four entrances about seventy feet wide. There are three gates, the
+central one of which is reserved for the Emperor. People are allowed to
+look in, but not to enter by this southern gate; the northern and
+eastern gates are open to the public.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image144.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Outer Heaven, Temple of Heaven, Peking" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Outer_Heaven_Temple_of_Heaven_Peking" id="Outer_Heaven_Temple_of_Heaven_Peking"></a>Outer Heaven, Temple of Heaven, Peking</span></div>
+
+<p>One view in the Forbidden City is that of the Coal Hall, two hundred and
+ten feet high. It dates from the Mongol dynasty, when coal is said to
+have been piled up there as a provision in case of siege, the Ming
+Emperor having covered it all with beautiful pavilions.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the wall to the north is the Hall of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">286</a></span> Longevity, where the
+Emperor's coffin remains after his death and until his funeral.</p>
+
+<p>The White Dagoba is conspicuous in all Peking views; it is within the
+gardens which are reserved for the court, and was built by the first
+emperor of the present dynasty as a shrine for a very fine Buddha. The
+White Dagoba is regarded as the palladium of the Empire, and stands at
+the very centre of the loveliest part of the palace grounds. A little
+farther to the west is found the finest pailow in Peking, made of very
+beautiful encaustic tiles; and behind a neighboring hillock rests the
+celebrated dragon screen, sixty feet long and twenty feet high; it was
+built to protect the library, which was unfortunately burned during the
+occupation of the allied forces in 1900.</p>
+
+<p>A noticeable feature is the Temple of Ten Thousand Buddhas, all of
+glittering Imperial yellow, the walls covered with animals and small
+images of Buddha. The three lakes, northern, middle, and southern, are a
+little over two miles long; a beautiful marble bridge connects the
+northern with the middle lake.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image145.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The White Pagoda of the Yellow Temple" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_White_Pagoda_of_the_Yellow_Temple" id="The_White_Pagoda_of_the_Yellow_Temple"></a>The White Pagoda of the Yellow Temple</span></div>
+
+<p>The Winter or Skating Palace was distinctive for the finest wood
+carvings in China; these were also burned by accident in 1900. A large
+pavilion, surrounded by a circular wall, is near the marble bridge. In
+this pavilion is the throne, and it was there audience was given <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">287</a></span>to
+several European ambassadors in 1893; there also the Emperor puts on
+mourning garments,&mdash;when, for instance, he had to grieve for his father,
+Prince Chan. At the northeast corner of the palace stands the fine
+yellow-tiled temple, with an imposing entrance; it has large gates,
+within the outer of which are two very quaint pavilions. Four or five
+roofs are piled, one on the other, and these can be distinctly seen from
+outside the walls of the Forbidden City. This brief outline may give one
+a little idea of what the public are deprived of seeing. Most of the
+buildings of the Forbidden City are yellow-tiled, as are also the walls.</p>
+
+<p>The Summer Palace is the only one of the Peking buildings that dates
+from the present Manchu dynasty. There had previously been a palace
+there, but it had a long while since fallen into decay. It is said to
+have had lovely gardens, and many canals winding in and out, while in
+other places little miniature lakes are formed. The principal palace is
+attractive and rises on an eminence, but there are pavilions and lesser
+buildings scattered about. The present palace is, however, very inferior
+to those royal residences of olden times; it suffered greatly in 1900;
+the Russian soldiers seemed to take delight in destroying works of art
+and historic buildings. Some of the marble bridges are very effective,
+and there is a marble<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">288</a></span> boat, not in itself very beautiful, but a
+picturesque feature as it lay anchored by the lake. We saw it from a
+high hill beyond the Emperor's palace, where is located a Buddhist
+pagoda. We had a view of the palace with its enclosure and its minor
+buildings.</p>
+
+<p>This was one feature seen during an excursion which a friend and I took,
+escorted by a guide and a picnic luncheon basket on Saturday, May 25th.
+We left the hotel early for a six-mile drive, passing first through the
+crowded streets, again noting the dusty way of the Imperial City, which
+wound around near the walls of the Forbidden City, every pinnacle and
+roof gleaming in the morning light. Leaving the outskirts of the town,
+the country view was the pleasantest we had seen. Our road lay alongside
+of the canal, where there were more trees and less dust.</p>
+
+<p>On the way we first visited the Five Pagoda Buddhist Temple, which seems
+to belong to a different world from that of to-day. It is a square mass
+of masonry fifty feet high, covered with old colored tiles and with
+beautiful reliefs of camels. On its flat top there are five pagodas,
+each eleven stories high; also, adjacent to it, a very elegant square
+pagoda, and, in front of it, what seems like the top of another large
+pagoda. Farther on, we saw the Ten Thousand Buddha Temple; it is not
+remarkable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">289</a></span> architecturally, and there are two large spacious
+buildings with a court between them. One of them consists of two
+stories, in both of which is a large room lined with little compartments
+containing small gilt Buddhas. The guide said there was a total of nine
+hundred and ninety-nine already, and the thousandth place was reserved
+for the Dowager Empress when she died.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image146.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The Winter Palace of the Forbidden City" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Winter_Palace_of_the_Forbidden_City" id="The_Winter_Palace_of_the_Forbidden_City"></a>The Winter Palace of the Forbidden City</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image147.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="View from the Forbidden City" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="View_from_the_Forbidden_City" id="View_from_the_Forbidden_City"></a>View from the Forbidden City</span></div>
+
+<p>We drove on to the village, adjacent to the Summer Palace, where we took
+jinrikishas for a ride of about two miles, following along the outskirts
+of the Summer Palace. Here were some temples, evidently not now used as
+places of worship, since the guide informed us that our luncheon would
+be served in the open court of one of them. After our impromptu meal we
+proceeded to walk about half a mile farther and then ascended an
+eminence with several flights of stairs leading to the pagoda which I
+have previously alluded to. We obtained, not only a view of the Summer
+Palace, but of the surrounding country. The little pagoda was several
+stories high, and very tasteful in all its appointments; it is said to
+have been built in commemoration of some event, but the guide could give
+us no exact information. We retraced our way to the city, and then drove
+through certain streets in order to enjoy the peculiar life around us.</p>
+
+<p>The three or four miles stretching between<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">290</a></span> the Chien-men and Hata-men
+gates on that Saturday afternoon surpass description. The Emperor's
+middle gate barred out the crowds; this opened on a somewhat discolored
+bridge, with fine carving and artistic balustrades, but the eye does not
+like to linger here long on account of the crowds of beggars everywhere
+visible; indeed, the hordes of women, children, vehicles, and
+processions of every variety seemed incredible. Funeral cort&egrave;ges in
+particular were very doleful; discordant music preceded the funeral car,
+and the crowds of paid mourners in motley dress, many of them picked up
+off the street for the occasion, were a new and distasteful feature. We
+saw on that trip three of these funerals, all similarly arranged, but
+only one modest wedding procession. The bride sat in a red silk-covered
+chair or palanquin, surrounded by friends; the usual attempts were made
+at music. Whether the happy lady was Manchu or Chinese we were unable to
+determine, the curtains being carefully drawn.</p>
+
+<p>This thoroughfare, between the two gates alluded to, is famous for its
+gayly decorated shops with long, ornamented signs and banners flying in
+every direction. There are many such streets in Peking, and a few shady
+residence thoroughfares, but our way usually led through the congested
+sections. Pailows, where streets are crossed at right angles, are
+interesting, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">291</a></span> they have usually commemorative arches; and
+sometimes the business houses of the locality bear their name, as the
+Four Pailow Shop.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image148.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Marble Terrace of the Summer Palace" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Marble_Terrace_of_the_Summer_Palace" id="Marble_Terrace_of_the_Summer_Palace"></a>Marble Terrace of the Summer Palace</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image149.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Marble_Bridge_of_the_Summer_Palace" id="Marble_Bridge_of_the_Summer_Palace"></a>Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace</span></div>
+
+<p>Legation Street is the home for ambassadors and ministers, and is a
+decided contrast to the majority of native streets. Many of the foreign
+buildings are fine, the grounds large, with imposing gateways, over
+which may be seen the coat of arms of the country which is represented.
+The British Legation was formerly a palace. In the grounds is the
+English Chapel; here we attended service on Sunday. Our hotel was nearly
+opposite the British Embassy; hence, in going in or out, we usually
+touched Legation Street.</p>
+
+<p>A notable excursion from Peking is to the Great Wall and the Ming tombs.
+The Wall we were to see was not the original one, built in 215 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, but
+an inner wall of the seventh century, which had still later been rebuilt
+by the Ming emperors. We left in the morning for the Nankow Hotel, where
+we were to pass the night. On our way to the Peking station, we saw the
+Emperor, <i>en route</i> from his Summer Palace to the city, in a yellow silk
+sedan chair, numerously attended by persons also robed in yellow. After
+luncheon at Nankow, we took sedan chairs ourselves for a twenty-six-mile
+ride to the Great Wall through the Nankow Pass. The long processions of
+guides and chairs were very picturesque,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">292</a></span> and there were also extra
+attendants as a necessary relay. The road was rather rough and very
+dusty, and our progress was therefore slow. Our roadway wound along,
+sometimes near a mountain, which lay on one side, with the valley on the
+other. The first gateway or arch we passed through was profusely
+decorated, having as a frieze a row of six Buddhas to right and left,
+and large Chinese figures below. Farther on, we came to another gateway,
+and then to another, the Pa-ta-ling, thirteen miles from Nankow and the
+top of the Nankow Pass. From every side long vistas could be seen; then
+portions of the Wall winding in and out, and ever and anon a massive
+watch tower looming forth.</p>
+
+<p>We left our chairs and walked a considerable way up the mountain side to
+the ruined watch towers; the one I entered was a large oblong building,
+with six windows and two doorways; farther on was another similar watch
+tower, and, at a greater distance, another. These add greatly to the
+picturesqueness of the wide massive wall&mdash;wide enough for two or three
+persons to ride abreast. Taken altogether, the view from the Nankow Pass
+is one of the most magnificent I have ever seen, and, of course,
+entirely unlike any other. It was a glorious day, and all the elements
+seemed to conspire to make it a perfect occasion.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image150.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="Nankow Pass" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Nankow_Pass" id="Nankow_Pass"></a>Nankow Pass</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">293</a></span></p><p>Resuming our chairs, we proceeded to retrace our steps; and in about an
+hour we stopped at a little hamlet for an afternoon collation furnished
+by our very thoughtful Director. The shades of night were beginning to
+fall when we resumed our journey, and erelong darkness overtook us. We
+were all more or less separated, as the guides made no attempt to keep
+together; and the sensation of being propelled by natives who did not
+speak one word of English was very peculiar and uncomfortable.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at the hotel about nine in the evening; a late dinner
+followed, and we separated with the expectation of meeting in the
+morning at five, for the departure to the Ming tombs. This is a distance
+of eight miles, or sixteen there and back to Nankow. The cavalcade left
+in the same fashion as on the day previous. Our way led us over the
+hills,&mdash;an irregular roadway, first through a field and past two little
+villages. We then came to a magnificently carved pailow of white marble,
+fifty feet high, eighty feet wide, and divided into five openings by
+square pillars. Half a mile farther on stands the Red Gate; and there
+was formerly a beautiful pavilion of white marble, supported on four
+carved columns. It may be well to state before proceeding, that there
+are in this vicinity, within a few miles of each other, thirteen Ming
+tombs, the Ming dynasty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">294</a></span> preceding the present one. Yung-lohi is
+considered the finest of the group, and this was now to be our objective
+point. Half a mile beyond the pailow already alluded to is the Red Gate.
+Next is the Holy Way. From here on for about half a mile, there is a
+regular procession of animals and persons, all cut out of bluish marble
+monoliths, remarkable for their workmanship and for their great size,
+which causes one to speculate how they could have been brought from the
+quarry. First, there are two columns decorated with sculptured clouds,
+two lions couchant, two lions rampant. Then, in similar manner, four
+camels, four elephants, and so on. After this come four military
+officials, four civil officials, four celebrated men, each made from a
+single block of marble, standing on opposite sides of the way, and all
+wearing the old Ming dress used by the Chinese before the Manchus
+introduced their own costumes.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the Holy Way, we passed through another arch, and came out on a
+street formerly paved with marble slabs. At some distance to one side,
+we saw two of the Ming tombs alluded to. We passed three marble bridges,
+one of seven arches, very much broken down. Two miles farther on, there
+is the principal enclosure around Yung-loh's tomb; it has a pavilion
+protecting a huge tablet with white marble steps<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">295</a></span> and railings carved
+to represent clouds, ph&#339;nix, and dragons. Beyond lies the great hall,
+seventy yards long by thirty yards wide, and supported upon eight rows
+of teakwood pillars, four in each row, measuring twelve feet in
+circumference and sixty feet high. This is a typical ancestral hall. Our
+luncheon was served to us here.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image151.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="A tower of the Great Wall" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_tower_of_the_Great_Wall" id="A_tower_of_the_Great_Wall"></a>A tower of the Great Wall</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image152.jpg" width="500" height="339" alt="Five Arch: First pailow of the Ming Tomb" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Five_Arch_First_pailow_of_the_Ming_Tomb" id="Five_Arch_First_pailow_of_the_Ming_Tomb"></a>Five Arch: First pailow of the Ming Tomb</span></div>
+
+<p>Passing through another great yard planted with cypresses and oaks, a
+way cut into solid masonry leads up to the carefully closed door of the
+tomb. This passage divides into two branches, both leading to a long
+flight of steps which mount to the top of the terrace, where,
+immediately above the coffin passage, is an immense upright slab bearing
+an inscription. The mound on which this tomb is placed is half a mile in
+circuit, and, though artificial, looks natural, being planted with
+cypresses and oaks to the very top. The emperors used to come in the
+Spring and Autumn to sacrifice at these ancient graves, but for two
+centuries this duty has been left to a descendant of the Ming emperors.</p>
+
+<p>There were different features to each of the Ming tombs, but, having
+seen the representative one, we were content to return to Nankow, as we
+were to take the afternoon train for Peking. While the trip to the Great
+Wall and the Ming tombs is somewhat fatiguing, the interest is so great
+as to reward one for the exertion.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">296</a></span></p><p>We went our individual ways the last day in Peking, I to the Chinese
+City in pursuit of a mandarin coat for a friend. After passing through
+block after block in a chaotic condition, dirt and debris of all kinds
+flung everywhere, I left the chair and walked quite a distance through
+lane-like passages to the place designated, where I found that the
+dealer had transferred all his embroideries to the hotel in which we
+were staying, and that the said coat was probably in the collection I
+had looked at the previous evening. Having devoted two hours to the
+pursuit, I was somewhat discomfited. I then hurried to some of the
+streets leading off from Beggars' Bridge, a place which is, as its name
+suggests, the headquarters for beggars. Strange as it may seem, there is
+a guild of beggars in Peking, with an acknowledged king; their
+profession in the East is a fine art. There are interesting
+thoroughfares leading out from this bridge,&mdash;one, a Curio Street, where
+every conceivable article can be found, and the other, Bookseller
+Street. This last was a disappointment, as I was told that rare editions
+could be had; but through the interpreter, I learned that the conditions
+of the city had been altered since the Boxer Rebellion in 1890. Indeed,
+that fearful event was the cause of many changes in Peking and of great
+suffering as well. The story of the conflict as related by an eyewitness
+was very thrilling.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">297</a></span> Certain portions of the city at the present time
+consist of naught but ruins, such as the foreign mission buildings and
+the eastern and southern cathedrals, one of which was in process of
+renovation. The Legation quarter has been mostly rebuilt.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image153.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Emperor Yunglo's tomb" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Emperor_Yunglo39s_tomb" id="Emperor_Yunglo39s_tomb"></a>Emperor Yunglo's tomb</span></div>
+
+<p>The cause of the Boxer Rebellion was everywhere given in Peking as
+having been instigated by the Dowager Empress and her sympathizers. No
+one can visit the city without receiving some definite impression of
+this wonderful woman, who for years has dominated all other
+authority&mdash;violating traditions considered sacred, and ruling with an
+imperious hand. For the Emperor only sympathy was felt. Of a refined,
+sensitive nature, but not strong physically, he seems to be a man of
+intelligence and of broad ideas. This was shown in 1898, when he
+announced that he intended to rule as other emperors did&mdash;to visit
+throughout his Empire; he even projected a railway journey to Tientsin
+in September, and planned many innovations. This was accomplished in
+conjunction with a few kindred spirits belonging to the so-called Reform
+Party in China.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after, the Empress seemingly acquiesced in the plan of reform, and
+announced that she too was interested in progress; but, whether sincere
+or not, erelong the tables were turned; six of the Emperor's advisers
+were beheaded,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">298</a></span> and the seventh, an intimate friend of the Emperor,
+advised in time, left the country. Then the Empress had the Emperor
+confined, and she was proclaimed his successor; but the open
+intervention of the Allied Powers caused him to be returned to the
+throne. It is said that for ten years he has been an invalid. Can any
+one wonder, knowing the constant espionage and continual opposition to
+which he has been subjected? After two years' contemplating of the
+beauties of the court, Emperor Kwang Su was married, very much against
+his will, however (preferring another), to the niece of the Dowager
+Empress, the beautiful Yohonola; her photograph proves this to be a true
+statement. For her has been reserved the sad fate of remaining
+childless, and, in consequence, she is kept in the background and rarely
+ever mentioned. Tsze Hsi An is really one of the most remarkable women
+in the world's history. Of very humble origin, and uneducated, she, on
+the birth of her son, became the reigning Emperor's wife of the second
+rank. At his death and also at the death of her superior, she became
+regent during the minority of her son, and on his death violated
+traditions (the law prohibiting succession to one of the same generation
+as the dead ruler), and had the nephew of the deceased Emperor
+proclaimed, she reigning as regent until his majority and virtually
+thereafter.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 338px;">
+<img src="images/image154.jpg" width="338" height="500" alt="Emperor Kwangsu of China" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Emperor_Kwangsu_of_China" id="Emperor_Kwangsu_of_China"></a>Emperor Kwangsu of China</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">299</a></span></p><p>Since 1900 the Empress has shown a desire to meet ladies of other
+nationalities in audience, and an American woman who had lived
+thirty-five years in Japan and China told me that the only thing
+required was an official endorsement by the Secretary of State (if
+American). Her failing health, however, during the past year caused an
+entire cessation of social courtesies. A woman of remarkably strong
+character, dominant will, and unscrupulous as to methods, she is the
+most perfect example, in juxtaposition, of the masculine woman, as the
+Emperor is of the feminine man.</p>
+
+<p>We observed many things about the Chinese of to-day that point to
+progress, however slow. The schools, for instance, are modelled on a
+much broader basis; there is more independence in journalism; Chinese
+athletics are also coming into vogue, where they were formerly held in
+contempt; Young Men's Christian Associations flourish in various places,
+and fine work is being done by the many foreign missionary
+organizations. I heard much comment made concerning the American
+missions; their work along educational lines and in the way of hospitals
+was specially commended. Even Li Hung Chang, though a Confucian,
+testified to their value, as have other prominent Manchus. The mission
+movement in general is being regarded as a great sociological force<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">300</a></span>
+which, though working slowly, tends to a higher condition of life.</p>
+
+<p>All the signs of the times indicate that China and the United States are
+destined some day to come into closer relations with each other
+socially, intellectually and of course commercially, as self-interest is
+a great factor in the furtherance of any attitude. One of the means to
+this end is the Chinese student in American colleges and schools; the
+number is, however, very much smaller than in England, while five
+thousand men are entered in Japanese colleges and schools, on account of
+the nearer proximity of Japan and consequently the less expense.</p>
+
+<p>Mention is constantly being made of the Reform Party in China, and hints
+at revolution are even heard. On this point it is well to quote an
+extract from "China and America of To-day." The authority says: "The
+Chinese people have no right to legislation; they have no right of
+self-taxation. They have not the power of voting out their rulers, or of
+limiting or stopping their supplies; they have therefore the right of
+rebellion. Rebellion is, in China, the old, often exercised, legitimate,
+and constitutional means of stopping arbitrary and vicious legislation
+and administration." Will it be necessary to resort to revolution in
+order to effect needed reforms? Time alone will determine.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 338px;"><br />
+<img src="images/image155.jpg" width="338" height="509" alt="The Dowager Empress of China" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Dowager_Empress_of_China" id="The_Dowager_Empress_of_China"></a>The Dowager Empress of China</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">301</a></span></p><p><span class="smcap"><a name="Tientsin" id="Tientsin"></a>Tientsin</span>, <i>May 26th</i>: We left Peking in the morning, and reached
+Tientsin at 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, going to the Imperial Hotel, where we were to
+remain two days. After luncheon we took a drive, first to the native
+city. There remains of the old walls and two fine gateways, which stand
+as reminders of an historic past, are to be seen. The street groups and
+bazars were similar to those observed in other cities, but far less
+interesting than those in Peking. The native city is said to number from
+six hundred thousand to a million persons; and yet, so extended and
+complete is the ground covered by the different foreign concessions,
+numbering less than four thousand persons, that they virtually represent
+the Tientsin of to-day; the British concession alone sets the tone to
+the city, with its fine business blocks. In Memorial Hall, dedicated to
+General Gordon, the municipal offices of the concession are located. The
+fine Public Garden is the centre, three times a week, of a military band
+concert, which attracts a large attendance and makes a brilliant scene,
+with its myriad electric lights. This feature of Tientsin life was
+introduced long ago by Viceroy Li Hung Chang, early in his term of
+office (1870&ndash;1891); and he is said to have paid for the instruction of
+the first military band. The building of the Industrial Association is
+popularly called "pigs in clover," and we learned from actual
+experience<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">302</a></span> that the name was truly applied, as we had to make the long
+weary round before we could secure an exit.</p>
+
+<p>On Victoria Road there are many private residences, and an imposing
+English Club edifice in the midst of large and attractive grounds.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the second day was devoted to incidental things; in the
+afternoon we attended a Chinese theatre which was similar to the one we
+had seen in Hong-Kong, only actors, who were grotesque acrobats, now
+took the place of the previous ballet-dancers. In the evening we
+attended a fine concert in the Public Gardens. The music was furnished
+by the Cameron Guards in Highland costume. It was a fine opportunity to
+see the English contingent, and from the Astor House across the way came
+ladies in evening dress; hats and wraps were also in evidence; and, in
+the rear, were files of soldiers of various nations from the different
+concessions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Shanhaikwan" id="Shanhaikwan"></a>Shanhaikwan</span>, <i>May 29th</i>: The following morning, we left for Shanhaikwan;
+we arrived in the evening, and went to a very comfortable railway hotel.
+The following morning, we made an excursion to the mountains and caught
+a glimpse of the Great Wall a long distance off; in one direction a
+valley; beyond that, hills; then mountains extending tier after tier,
+until the last faded away in the distant horizon. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">303</a></span> wall is a
+continuation of the one visited in Peking, and formerly ended at the
+sea-line in Shanhaikwan, but the ravages of time and the devastation of
+man have carried away much of it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image156.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Gordon Hall at Tientsin" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Gordon_Hall_at_Tientsin" id="Gordon_Hall_at_Tientsin"></a>Gordon Hall at Tientsin</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image157.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Old gateway of Tientsin" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Old_gateway_of_Tientsin" id="Old_gateway_of_Tientsin"></a>Old gateway of Tientsin</span></div>
+
+<p>We had left our chairs at a small place, said to be a Taoist temple, and
+had also passed the ruins of another temple, showing the isolated places
+selected by the early fathers for their centres of worship. After
+roaming about, we returned to the first temple, and around an improvised
+table, in plain view of the altar, we were served with a substantial
+luncheon brought from the hotel. Our return trip was over a different
+route, in order to secure a finer view of the Wall, some ruined towers,
+and parapets.</p>
+
+<p>Later, we passed through two imposing gateways, and noted the great
+thickness of the Wall which, broken off, showed a brick exterior filled
+with earth. The way through the native town assured us of the usual
+Chinese life and bazars, Shanhaikwan having only a small European
+population. It was the scene of much activity during the Boxer
+Rebellion, and the regiments of several nations had posts or forts
+there, the English and Japanese even now continuing to maintain a small
+body-guard. In the afternoon we took a ride in a diminutive horse-car on
+a narrow-gauge road to the sea, four miles distant, where we found a
+sandy beach and bathhouses. This is a favorite resort for the Summer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">304</a></span>
+guests of the Shanhaikwan Hotel. Peitaho, which is situated back of
+Shanhaikwan in the mountains, has a large Summer colony from Peking and
+Tientsin, many of whom own their homes. At Shanhaikwan we had the
+pleasure of meeting Judge and Mrs. Charles Smith of Manila, and listened
+to many interesting experiences connected with life in the Philippines.
+Shanhaikwan is on the border between China and Manchuria.</p>
+
+<p>We had been in Manchuria all day with an uninteresting landscape as
+regards variety,&mdash;plains, a few trees, and a little verdure stretched
+far away. Much of the land, however, was tilled, it being Springtime in
+this far-away country; and an occasional group of trees indicated what
+time and irrigation may accomplish in the way of agricultural results.
+At every station armed soldiers were on guard. Various theories were
+advanced to account for this; one said that brigands infested the
+country; another claimed that there might be danger of destruction to
+the track, this being the Southern Japanese-Manchurian Railway, which
+was running through an alien country. The right to this road and a strip
+of land each side of the track was secured by Japan either by treaty or
+by lease from China at the close of the Russian-Japanese war. Chan Chow
+was the largest station passed. Hsin Min was the scene of a conflict
+between the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">305</a></span> Russians and Japanese, and at the present time soldiers are
+still stationed there.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Mukden" id="Mukden"></a>Mukden</span>, <i>May 30th</i>: Our next point to be visited was Mukden. The trip
+was not in our original itinerary, and we had some difficulty in
+securing it, as the Director felt that we could not obtain good hotel
+accommodations. We all, however, promised to accept uncomplainingly any
+condition which the situation offered. Nevertheless, we felt a little
+anxious about the result, as we were the first tourist party to invade
+Mukden, the capital of Manchuria, and also the old capital when it was
+an independent country and not, as now, a province.</p>
+
+<p>At the King-jo Hotel, under Japanese management, we found six rooms
+furnished in supposed European style; these opened on upper and lower
+galleries and were comfortable. They really formed an annex in order to
+entice stray European guests. The entire household was Japanese, without
+any knowledge of the English language, so pantomime became our means of
+communication, and there were many amusing mistakes made on both sides.
+The utmost good-humor prevailed, however, and the atmosphere of the
+place was altogether pleasant.</p>
+
+<p>The morning following our arrival, we rode in jinrikishas to the tomb of
+a Ming emperor. There are two of these tombs located at Mukden.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">306</a></span> We
+visited only one; it is four miles from the city, and beautifully
+located in a parklike enclosure. We entered at the side, through a long
+avenue of trees, the front entrance never being opened; there were two
+tall columns with grotesque figures of animals on top; then a lion on
+each side, seated on heavy pedestals. A three-arched pailow had a very
+massive carved cornice and entablature; on the cornice and on each
+division of the arch were seated immense carved lions; similar ones were
+also on the reverse side of the arch and on the ends, making ten in all,
+and adding to the impressiveness of the whole.</p>
+
+<p>We now entered the sacred avenue, lined on each side with ten large
+stone animals. The path was much shorter than that visited in Nankow,
+and the carving of the animals was less perfect. The avenue ended with a
+gateway of three arches, which we did not pass through, but which
+contained a memorial tablet mounted on a huge tortoise; beyond this
+there was a long oblong building with an effective terrace roof; doors
+were placed in each corner of the walled enclosure. At the back rose an
+immense mound which covers the tomb. From a high tower overlooking the
+mound, we had a view of the entire enclosure.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image158.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The Temple at Mukden" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_Temple_at_Mukden" id="The_Temple_at_Mukden"></a>The Temple at Mukden</span></div>
+
+<p>The palace at Mukden is a large, imposing pile, built in 1631. There are
+many different buildings, all in the peculiar Chinese style with
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">307</a></span>upturned eaves; these were barricaded while renovation was going on,
+and we could obtain glimpses of the interior only through cracks in the
+wall. The rooms were large and contained some wall decoration, while the
+whole effect was fine, in spite of all the inconveniences experienced in
+trying to see them; debris was everywhere. In one building the doors and
+windows were sealed with paper strips placed over them; this was the
+receptacle for valuable jewels and fine brocaded robes of royalty. We
+were first refused admission, but, on our return from the rounds of the
+palace, by some magical process (probably a large fee), a door was
+opened, and we entered and saw a wonderful display of rich gems,
+somewhat barbaric in style, fine swords, daggers, robes, and other
+paraphernalia.</p>
+
+<p>The bazars in Mukden were not unlike those throughout China in their
+arrangement, but containing not nearly so attractive a display of goods.
+The population seemed mixed, judging from the type of faces and from the
+head-dress of the women, some of them having the plain, smooth
+arrangement of the hair, while others followed the peculiar Manchu
+style. Mukden owes its present celebrity to the Russian-Japanese war, as
+several battles were fought around it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><i>June 1st</i>: The following day, we took our departure for Niuchwang. We
+had been told<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">308</a></span> that our route would be over historic battlegrounds, and
+we soon realized this, for, after leaving Mukden, we saw the monument
+erected by the Japanese Government as a memorial to the memory of the
+Japanese soldiers who fell in a desperate engagement, March 13th, 1905.
+This was the battle of Shio-ho, one of the worst of the war. General
+Kuropatkin headed the Russians, while Generals Kuroki and Nogi were on
+the Japanese side. The Russians were vanquished and were forced to
+retreat to Karpan. Later we came to a large place, formerly a Russian
+city, Lara-yang, which was taken by the Japanese, and now seems in a
+prosperous condition. A large rocky mountain, passed later on, was the
+scene of a desperate attempt of the Japanese to dislodge the Russians,
+and here eight thousand of the former lost their lives. At one point a
+tall granite monument was raised to the memory of ten thousand Japanese
+soldiers, all of which gave us a realizing sense of the horrors of the
+conflict. Later, these warlike reminders ceased, and the landscape
+showed broad, well-cultivated fields; indeed, the Manchuria of to-day,
+as far as we could determine, seems a fertile plain; and while a coarser
+cereal is now raised, it seemed possible that this might become a great
+wheat-producing land with proper cultivation.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">309</a></span></p><p><span class="smcap"><a name="Niuchwang" id="Niuchwang"></a>Niuchwang</span>: When near Niuchwang, we came to the city of Shai-seng, and
+saw the long lines of Russian barracks which are now occupied by the
+Japanese. We reached our destination late in the evening, and had a
+jinrikisha ride of over an hour before turning to the Central Hotel,
+which had been greatly damaged by fire, but which we persuaded our
+Director to select for us. Our surroundings were not luxurious, but a
+fairly good dinner awaited us.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning we had a delightful surprise. A call of the Director at
+the English Club the evening previous had resulted in an invitation
+extended to the entire party to breakfast at the residence of Mr. Henry
+A. Bush, of Bush Brothers, a noted firm in the East. Never was an
+invitation more gladly accepted. The mistress of the household was
+absent, but Mr. Bush, aided by friends, did the honors to perfection. It
+was a lovely home and full of good cheer. Two hours later we were sent
+to the station in carriages, and escorted to a junction, nine miles
+away, by a relative of the family. We learned afterward that this
+courtesy was often extended to tourists since the burning of the hotel.
+I am happy to state that both at Mukden and Niuchwang modern hotels will
+be opened at an early date, both being named the Astor House, a favorite
+appellation all through the East.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">310</a></span></p><p><span class="smcap"><a name="Dalny" id="Dalny"></a>Dalny</span>: The ride to Dalny (the Japanese wish it called Darien) ended at
+nine in the evening; the scenery <i>en route</i> was not unlike that of the
+day previous, except that we observed a higher degree of cultivation,
+and the plains were more extended, terminating in the distance in low
+ranges of hills. We found Dalny modern in appearance, save in a few
+large buildings which showed their early origin; the Russians had
+planned the place as a model city before the war, which in time might
+become a flourishing adjunct to Port Arthur. The city was evacuated
+before the siege of Port Arthur, the Russians concentrating all their
+strength at the latter point. Dalny is a port of some importance, but we
+were told there was little local business to speak of. Tourists are
+beginning to go there, as it is a convenient point to remain if one
+wishes to visit Port Arthur, which is a long day's excursion, leaving
+early in the morning and returning on an evening train. This has,
+heretofore, been the customary plan of procedure, owing to superior
+hotel facilities at Dalny; but a new hotel was nearly completed at Port
+Arthur when we were there.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image159.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Dalny" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Dalny_pic" id="Dalny_pic"></a>Dalny</span><br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Port_Arthur" id="Port_Arthur"></a>Port Arthur</span>, <i>June 4th</i>: We left early for a hard day's excursion to
+Port Arthur. The standpoint of the tourist is that of interest and
+curiosity to see the port which was so recently the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">311</a></span> scene of such
+tragic events. With military knowledge, the interest would be more in
+observing the strategic position and the methods of defence. Before
+speaking of the incidents of the day, a brief outline of Port Arthur
+will be given as a key to the situation. A view of the place from the
+sea is disappointing, as the hills that circle around the bay are bare
+and destitute of vegetation and foliage. The foothills of a long
+mountain range divide the peninsula of Liao-tung (the circle of the
+hills extending over ten miles); several bays also indent the shore.
+Viewed from the land side, the town and port lie in an amphitheatre,
+hidden from the sea by Golden Hill on one side and by the Tiger's Tail
+Peninsula on the other. This strong position was fortified by the
+Russians in the newest way.</p>
+
+<p>The defence works are divided into coast and inland groups. The coast
+section is the Golden Hill position, which stands at the left side of
+the entrance to the harbor and commands the outer bay. From this hill,
+toward the sea and to the north, making a semicircle, the line of
+fortifications extends three miles, including many permanent works; the
+first of these is called the Silver Hill group, and there are several
+lines lying east and north of this. That group of forts on the left side
+is named the Tiger's Tail Peninsula, and is as strong as Golden Hill on
+the opposite side. The sea just outside of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">312</a></span> Tiger's Tail was the place
+where the Japanese fleet attacked the Russian squadron at anchor.
+Because of the vast strength of each of these two opposite points, and
+their close communication and support, they have been considered the
+strongest fortresses ever yet invested.</p>
+
+<p>The city of Port Arthur is divided by Monument Hill into two parts, Old
+or East Town, and New or West Town. The old town is the real Port
+Arthur; the new one was formerly a Chinese hamlet, called
+Tai-yo-ko,&mdash;the Russians building this section after its occupation. The
+old is a business town; the new an official town. Here we have the
+contrast of a European centre on one side with a Chinese on the other.
+In the old town are situated the Port Admiralty, Navy Yard, Army
+Hospital, Red Cross Hospital, Museum, and Fortress Office, formerly
+General Stoessel's house. In the new town are the Governor General's
+office and some civil administration buildings, a park, and numberless
+residences.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival at Port Arthur, we took carriages, and, after securing a
+permit, went to the Siege Museum, which is filled with the trophies of
+war, and models of some of the forts that were taken; we examined these
+carefully in order the better to understand the methods employed by the
+Japanese in storming fortifications; tunnelling<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">313</a></span> was the way in which
+the North Fort was taken. The Siege Museum was interesting from another
+point, as it had been the mess-house of the Russian officers of the
+garrison, and the walls were covered with views of the Crimean and other
+wars; there was also a large collection of pictures of Russian generals.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image160.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Port Arthur before the siege" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Port_Arthur_before_the_siege" id="Port_Arthur_before_the_siege"></a>Port Arthur before the siege</span></div>
+
+<p>We then had a long drive to Monument Hill, which is situated between the
+old and the new town near the railway station. It is a high point,
+commanding the harbor and the forts, and one can obtain a bird's-eye
+view of Port Arthur from its top. On account of its advantageous
+position, General Nogi and Admiral Togo chose the hill for the mausoleum
+and monument which are built in memory of those who lost their lives.
+There are two peaks; the mausoleum is situated on one, the monument on
+the other. The monument, two hundred feet high, was in process of
+construction when we saw it; stones raised from the sunken ships formed
+the principal material in building it. On the opposite peak, with a
+torii in front, as an indication of the Shinto faith, is the mausoleum,
+where the remains of 22,183 officers and soldiers have been buried with
+formal ceremonies. It is impossible to convey an idea of the
+impressiveness of the scene as we stood on this hill, gazing out on a
+landscape significant of war and carnage on every side.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">314</a></span></p><p>After luncheon at the almost completed new hotel, we had the roughest
+ride I have ever taken&mdash;a long distance to the outskirts in order to
+view some of the ruined forts&mdash;first, to East Keekwan, the name of a
+group of defence works. The main fort here was so well defended that it
+was considered unassailable from any direction; it was also very
+strongly protected. The assault began on the 18th of August; there was
+very stubborn resistance, and many attacks were necessary before General
+Stoessel, on January 1st, proposed to surrender. As the Russians
+retreated, however, they blew the fort up with dynamite. A scene of
+desolation greeted us in consequence, and it was almost impossible to
+walk across the debris.</p>
+
+<p>We next visited another prominent work belonging to this group, called
+North Fort, the one we had studied at the Museum in the morning, with
+its intricate system of tunnels. These latter represented two shafts,
+three feet high and two feet wide, each forty feet long with four
+trenches; eight mines had been laid, and these were exploded on the 18th
+of December, blowing away the rampart in the northeast and seriously
+damaging the interior. A desperate resistance followed, but the Russians
+finally retreated, destroying a part of the fort before they left. We
+also saw other defences, but had no time to study them, as a long rough
+drive ensued, in order to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">315</a></span> reach 203-Metre Hill, the scene of the last
+engagement.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image161.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Tiger-Tail Promontory and Port Arthur during the conflict" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Tiger-Tail_Promontory" id="Tiger-Tail_Promontory"></a>Tiger-Tail Promontory and Port Arthur during the conflict</span></div>
+
+<p>203-Metre Hill is the highest eminence of the whole fortified line,
+about two and one-half miles from the new town. It commands the whole
+western harbor, and most of the eastern, and from the top can be seen
+all the fortified positions, including camps and trenches. The
+occupation of this hill was the death-blow to the Russians, and it has
+been called the key to Port Arthur. It was very strongly fortified, and
+the work of occupation was a fearful task, involving a great loss of
+life. Early in September the attack began, and it was taken early in
+December; the Japanese loss in dead and wounded was 7578, and after the
+capitulation of Port Arthur, the Russian remains were collected and
+buried to the number of 5400; the real count was supposed to be more
+than 7000. The possession of this hill by the Japanese sounded the
+death-knell of the Russian fleet, which was practically wiped out of
+existence on the 9th of December. We regretted not being able to visit
+Port Arthur the following week, when a most interesting occasion was to
+occur,&mdash;the dedication of the fine monument erected by the Japanese
+Government to the memory of the Russian soldiers who are buried there. I
+saw photographs of the monument, but could not procure one, as they were
+not then for sale. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">316</a></span> moral significance of this event was very great,
+as the Russians, officially and non-officially, accepted the gift with
+grateful appreciation.</p>
+
+<p>A friend sent me an account of the exercises at Port Arthur which
+occurred on June 10th. The Russian Archbishop and a number of high
+military officials came from Russia, and General Nogi and other Japanese
+officials from Japan. There were formal exercises of a varied kind. The
+chief feature was the address delivered by the Archbishop. He opened by
+saying "that only by the brave can the brave be appreciated. In this
+world of ours war seems to be unavoidable; at the same time it evokes
+and gives occasion for expressing some of the finest feelings of which
+human nature is capable. The many thousands of men who lie sleeping
+under the monument just unveiled were heroes who loyally and bravely
+laid down their lives in their country's cause. Such men are best
+appreciated by men of their own stamp; and the noble action of the
+Japanese in erecting this monument to the memory of their fallen foes
+showed that the best feelings of which human nature is capable rise
+superior even to the most tragic incidents of life. In performing this
+beautiful deed, the Japanese had not only shown themselves worthy of
+wearing the laurels which they had won, but had also gained a second
+victory even more prolonged and enduring.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">317</a></span> Amid all the horrors of war,
+humanity must not forget the opportunities it furnishes for the display
+of such traits." The Tokio and other Japanese papers devoted much space
+to accounts of the ceremonies and festivities connected with the
+unveiling of the monument. Some of them seemed to regard it as an
+emotional display, and others found it impossible to read the accounts
+without concluding that the Japanese and Russians had wellnigh, if not
+altogether, laid aside their feeling of mutual hostility.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image162.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="203-Metre Hill, Port Arthur&mdash;The last point to be taken" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Metre_Hill_Port_Arthur" id="Metre_Hill_Port_Arthur"></a>203-Metre Hill, Port Arthur&mdash;The last point to be taken</span></div>
+
+<p>An English gentleman on the train to Dalny spoke of General Stoessel's
+surrender in very caustic terms, basing his position on information
+received from one of the officers on the General's staff. It occurred to
+me that the officer would not be likely to give favorable testimony, as
+there was a possibility of his also suffering penalties in Russia. It
+will always be a mooted question whether the surrender was justified by
+the condition of affairs at Port Arthur; certainly it was in the
+interest of humanity, as it was stated on Japanese authority that there
+were at least twenty-five thousand sick at Port Arthur.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning, we left Dalny, or Darien, by the steamer
+<i>Santo Maru</i>, for Chemulpo, the port of Seoul, Korea.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Chemulpo_Seoul" id="Chemulpo_Seoul"></a>Chemulpo, Seoul</span>, <i>June 7th</i>: Chemulpo is an open port and has quite a
+foreign settlement;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">318</a></span> it now can boast of wide streets and some shops,
+but twenty years ago it was nothing more than a fishing village. The
+Trans-Siberian Railway is the only means of connection between Chemulpo
+and London, twenty-one days being required for the trip. The two hours'
+railway ride between Chemulpo and Seoul affords quite diversified
+scenery.</p>
+
+<p>The situation of Seoul is beautiful. It is a walled city, the entire
+circumference of which is twelve miles, and in this wall are eight
+arched gateways. While the wall itself is not high, it seems to cling
+near to the sides of the foothills and the mountains. These mountains
+are quite bare of vegetation, but the little valleys between the hills
+are green, rice being one of the products cultivated.</p>
+
+<p>Korea to us was mostly Seoul, as there is no provision for guests at
+present in the mountains. We met a gentleman and his two daughters who
+were going to the mountains, but they were to be entertained by a
+missionary family; in time this condition of affairs will no doubt be
+improved, as it is in Java.</p>
+
+<p>Korea is a land of great beauty. The inhabitants are lovers of nature,
+as is shown in the names they give to their mountains and valleys, such
+as The Mountain Fronting the Moon, The Mountain Facing the Sun, The
+Valley of Cool Shade, The Tranquil Sea, and The Hill of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">319</a></span> White Clouds.
+The descriptions of the mountains in the extreme North are more peculiar
+still: The Peak of the Thousand Buddhas, The Cloud Touchers, and the
+like.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image163.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="The city wall and gate of Seoul" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="The_city_wall_and_gate_of_Seoul" id="The_city_wall_and_gate_of_Seoul"></a>The city wall and gate of Seoul</span></div>
+
+<p>The people of Korea, as they are viewed on the streets, seem to be
+contented, with apparently a larger leisure class than we had seen in
+any previous city. This was emphasized by the dress of the men,
+consisting of a long white costume open in front, made of a kind of
+grass lawn; a pair of loose trousers, something like the Turkish
+trousers, is worn beneath this. Officials, ministers, and noblemen dress
+elegantly, their costumes being made from the finest silk lawn, and they
+wear silken girdles.</p>
+
+<p>The dress of middle-class women is even more peculiar than that of the
+men. The upper garment is very short, made of white or green lawn or
+calico; a few inches below this is a petticoat, touching the ground;
+between these two garments there is nothing but the bare skin. It is not
+an agreeable spectacle. When on the street, they wear what is called the
+chang-ot; it consists of a long white or green cloak, with green cuffs
+and collar, cut like a sack. The neck of this garment is put over the
+head, and the long white sleeves fall from the ears and are seen
+flapping in the wind.</p>
+
+<p>The single or married man may be known by the style of his hair. The
+single man wears a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">320</a></span> cue, but when married it is done up in a twist and
+kept in place by a woven horsehair band. We saw a few who had cut their
+hair. The women dress their hair rather plainly on the sides, and do it
+low on their necks in the back.</p>
+
+<p>The women of the better class lead very secluded lives, almost like the
+Zenana; indeed, their customs seem similar to those in India. The
+children up to a certain age are seen in a state of entire nudity.</p>
+
+<p>The girls of the lower class are sold as domestic slaves, and may be
+seen running beside the chairs of their mistresses. They look, however,
+as though they were kindly treated.</p>
+
+<p>The Seoul scenes at night are most peculiar. The women of the upper
+class are allowed to take exercise only at this time. Men formerly were
+excluded from the streets at night, but now are seen. Some one has
+compared this nocturnal city graphically with the old idea of the
+resurrection. Many of the men are supported by the labor of the women of
+their household. The laundry work of a family in Seoul must be very
+considerable on account of the number of white garments worn.</p>
+
+<p>A Korean lady travelling in her sedan chair is quite an imposing
+spectacle. The chairs are somewhat heavier than those we had previously
+seen.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image164.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="A group of Koreans" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_group_of_Koreans" id="A_group_of_Koreans"></a>A group of Koreans</span></div>
+
+<p>The dress of the dancing-girl is many-colored, worn with a profusion of
+sashes and decorations. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">321</a></span>The head-dress is about three times as high as
+that worn by a Manchu woman. The costume consists of a white flowing
+under-robe, and over this a colored silk robe. There are very large
+sleeves and a sash worn high on the waist. The robe falls apart in front
+and shows loose trousers. The dancing-girl and the singing-girl
+correspond to the geisha and Maiko of Japan.</p>
+
+<p>Sight-seeing in Seoul is less exhausting than in other cities, as there
+are no galleries, museums, or elaborate tombs to be described. The
+interest in the city is found amongst its street scenes and in the
+peculiar life of its people.</p>
+
+<p>Seoul spreads out over a plain, which extends to the mountains. There is
+quite a variety of scenery included within its area. The country near by
+is extremely picturesque, quite unlike the outskirts of Peking. There
+are small villages and pleasant walks and drives at an easy distance
+from the city.</p>
+
+<p>The bazars are placed far out on the street, except in one point where
+there seems to be only one central bazar.</p>
+
+<p>The manufacture of brass is the specialty of Seoul; all the ancient
+forms are reproduced. Some of our party purchased large collections of
+artistic and serviceable articles.</p>
+
+<p>The most imposing building is the Temple of Heaven. It is bare, compared
+with the one at Peking, but it has some features that are similar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">322</a></span> and
+is made of marble. It is, however, a combination of the two temples seen
+in Peking, opening at the side, and having an open roof over the centre;
+adjoining it there is a three-story pagoda, much like a pavilion in many
+respects.</p>
+
+<p>The ancient tomb of the old Korean noblemen interested us. It is of
+marble, with a peculiar carving on top. At the base is an immense
+tortoise.</p>
+
+<p>The Buddhist temple was also visited. This had an imposing entrance
+approached by white marble steps. It was spacious, but architecturally
+far inferior to those we had seen elsewhere. The upturned roof was
+interesting.</p>
+
+<p>The marble pagoda, rising seven stories above the base, was really very
+beautiful. It had a special small enclosure about it, filled with
+flowers. This enclosure was in a large park, which contained an artistic
+pavilion, evidently for the convenience of people who wished to view the
+pagoda.</p>
+
+<p>There are said to be eighteen palaces in Seoul. Some of these at present
+are not in use. We passed the new marble palace where the Emperor was
+staying. Then we went on to the large old palace which has been vacant
+ever since the assassination of the Queen. There were imposing entrance
+gates here, and many preliminary buildings before we reached the most
+important ones. The Audience Hall is very spacious and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">323</a></span> very well
+proportioned. The approach to it is fine, consisting of many marble
+seats where the high officials sat when his Majesty appeared. From the
+exterior the Audience Hall seems to have two stories, as there are two
+of the peculiar Chinese roofs, but inside it forms one very high room.
+The Audience Hall as a building is a great decorative feature in the
+palace grounds. There is one other large room in it called, I believe,
+the Hall of Congratulation.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;">
+<img src="images/image165.jpg" width="339" height="500" alt="An old tomb of a high official" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="An_old_tomb_of_a_high_official" id="An_old_tomb_of_a_high_official"></a>An old tomb of a high official</span></div>
+
+<p>We passed on to the palace of the assassinated Queen. This has now been
+torn down by order of the Resident General, on account of its unpleasant
+association both to the Koreans and to the Japanese. It originally
+covered a good deal of ground and must have been spacious. The grounds
+are very large and interesting, containing many lovely trees. One
+building therein was raised like an immense pavilion and surrounded by a
+miniature lake, very pleasing with its setting of green and at times
+covered with water-lilies.</p>
+
+<p>Quite a pretentious building, with its wide projecting Chinese eaves
+open on all sides and showing columns, was the one which contained the
+monument erected in honor of the Emperor's jubilee.</p>
+
+<p>A picturesque feature of the city consists of the gates of the Wall. We
+took drives through these to different points near by. Particularly
+noticeable is the Western Gate, or Gate of General<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">324</a></span> Righteousness. This
+is massive, showing the thickness of the wall, and the high roof over
+the arch is very effective.</p>
+
+<p>All the hills around Korea are considered sacred and are dedicated to
+burial purposes. In one alone, seventy-five thousand persons are placed.
+The drive presents very diversified scenery. As we approached the tomb
+of the Queen, considerable formality was required. It was necessary to
+possess a permit, soldiers being stationed outside the grounds. The hill
+was very broad and quite steep at places, and on top the large tomb was
+composed of marble. We could have visited several others, but preferred
+to return home by the way of an old Buddhist monastery, a great part of
+the road being lined with trees on either side. We found the monastery
+rather dismantled and but few monks in attendance. They have to endure
+many privations, and their surroundings looked extremely bare.</p>
+
+<p>After this excursion, we ended the day by attending the Korean Theatre.
+The ride there was interesting, as we saw all the particular evening
+sights I have described. The arrangement of the room was very simple; we
+sat in elevated boxes at the sides. About the stage all the details were
+primitive. The action of the play was poor, but the enthusiasm of the
+audience was great. We remained but a short time.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image166.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="A white marble pagoda in Seoul" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="A_white_marble_pagoda_in_Seoul" id="A_white_marble_pagoda_in_Seoul"></a>A white marble pagoda in Seoul</span></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">325</a></span></p><p>In the matter of education the women of the higher class are somewhat
+above the average, but those of the middle and lower classes are
+entirely ignorant. Education is one of the many recent reforms
+instituted; the old order of things is rapidly being changed.
+Electricity has been introduced, electric trams extend some distances
+even into the country, and there is a good postal service. A gentleman
+who had been a resident for some fifteen years is my authority for
+stating that in his opinion the mistake the Japanese were making in
+their protectorate was in pushing reforms too rapidly. The Koreans are
+slow in their response to foreign and western ideas.</p>
+
+<p>The deposed King seems to be of a peculiar type. He is described as
+having a weakness for intrigue, his early education having been received
+under conditions that foster such qualities. He was married at thirteen
+years of age to the late Queen; she was said to be unusually gifted, and
+an attractive woman, even though unscrupulous and at times cruel.</p>
+
+<p>There are many opinions regarding the immediate outcome of Japan's
+protectorate over Korea. Those who have faith in the integrity of
+Marquis Ito believe in good results; others fear that the invasion of a
+large number of Japanese having business interests will rather
+overshadow the Koreans, who are indolent and inclined to take their
+ease. On this subject there can be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">326</a></span> only conjecture; time will decide.
+An interesting book, "In Korea with Marquis Ito," which has been
+published during the year, deals with this question fully; George
+Trumbull Ladd is the author.</p>
+
+<p>Looking backward, we find that the kings of Korea were the vassals of
+China for a long period, but as one of the results of the
+Chinese-Japanese war, there was a complete renunciation of the authority
+of the Emperor of China. Hence it seems strange that at the close of the
+Russian-Japanese war another important change and crisis should have
+come to Korea.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"><img src="images/star.jpg" width="50" height="36" alt="star" title="" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">From Seoul, Korea, to <a name="Toward_Yokohama" id="Toward_Yokohama"></a>Yokohama</span>: We left Seoul at eight on the morning of
+June 9th for Fusan, and the railway journey, an all-day trip, was a
+fatiguing one, owing to the dust; but we had glimpses of mountain
+scenery and plains. Fusan was simply a point of departure for Japan. We
+took our steamer, <i>Satsuma-maru</i>, at six that evening for the night
+only, as we were due at Shimonoseki early the next morning. The approach
+here was through the straits, and was unlike any previous view,&mdash;a wide
+entrance between two high promontories, with mountains on either side.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image167.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Street scene in Seoul" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Street_scene_in_Seoul" id="Street_scene_in_Seoul"></a>Street scene in Seoul</span></div>
+
+<p>Shimonoseki is quite an important point commercially, but our stay was,
+as I say, one of convenience only, since we took the train at 9.30 for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">327</a></span>Miyajima and the Sacred Island. This is considered the finest railway
+trip in Japan as regards scenery, and our exclamations of delight were
+many, for there were mountains covered with verdure and rice-fields, and
+from time to time glimpses of the famed Inland Sea. We had long
+anticipated this visit to the Sacred Island; we knew Miyajima had a
+population of three thousand, and was a fishing village, aside from the
+great interest which attaches to the temples; that the island rose
+eighteen hundred feet above the sea and was rocky, although covered with
+heavy foliage; but I was unprepared for the unique charm that awaited
+us.</p>
+
+<p>The approach to Miyajima, as we crossed the lake, gave us a fine first
+impression,&mdash;the great torii standing boldly forth from its watery base;
+the stone lanterns in the foreground; the temple seen dimly through the
+green; and the thickly wooded hills in the background all added greatly
+to the landscape. At our right, on an eminence, was situated the Mikado
+Hotel, which was to shelter us, and which we later found to be an ideal
+abiding-place.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded at once to the great temple, which, with its corridors and
+galleries, six hundred feet long, represented something distinctively
+unique. One line of galleries extends out into the water at high tide,
+and stretches out like so many arms in various directions; a new<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">328</a></span> series
+is being constructed. All of these intricate passages centre in the
+great temple, large and finely proportioned, but, like all Shinto
+buildings, comparatively simple as regards adornment. As we approached,
+we were confronted by at least twenty-five priests and ten
+dancing-girls, who were grouped together for a photograph; the priests'
+robes and the many-colored dresses of the girls produced a striking
+effect, as they sat on a platform in front of the temple. Later the
+girls went through several of the so-called "holy dances"; we were not
+permitted to enter the temple.</p>
+
+<p>Passing through a long corridor, we next ascended a hill and visited the
+unique Temple of a Thousand Mats. This is grim with age but of immense
+proportions, and having many rows of columns, covered from base to
+capital with small wooden mats shaped somewhat like butter ladles, each
+one of which is inscribed with the name and residence of the donor; the
+ladles are on sale at the temple. Not only the pillars, but every
+available place in the temple, is thus utilized, producing a very
+grotesque effect. The plan consists in each person writing his name,
+residence, and some sentiment on these mats; it originated after the
+Chinese-Japanese war in 1894, when pilgrims came to visit the temple and
+thus paid tribute to it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image168.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Torii Miyajima" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Torii_Miyajima" id="Torii_Miyajima"></a>Torii Miyajima</span></div>
+
+<p>Near the temple there is an imposing pagoda, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">329</a></span>also of ancient date, and
+on an adjacent knoll another shrine. Returning to the hotel, we noted
+many more stone lanterns, and still another temple with its attendant
+torii. We also passed through the lane-like streets of the village,
+thickly lined with bazars; the shops were filled with many tasteful
+articles, carved wood being a specialty in Miyajima. These shops
+reminded us of Switzerland, as did the heights, a portion of which is
+covered with an attractive park.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner, we regretfully bade adieu to the members of the
+Trans-Siberian party, leaving only Miss M&mdash;&mdash; and myself to return to
+Yokohama. To speed them across the lake, their guide had arranged for an
+illumination, produced by lighting candles in many of the tall stone
+lanterns; this we also enjoyed, our guide taking us out on the lake in a
+sampan; and as we rode toward the great torii it seemed to assume
+immense proportions, while the effect of the lanterns was magical. It
+was indeed a fairylike scene.</p>
+
+<p>We were called at four the following morning, breakfasted at five, and
+were on our steamer before six for the trip to Onomichi on the Inland
+Sea. The island was lovely as we left in the early light; and the whole
+landscape, from the towering mountain in the distance, the lesser ones
+sloping down to the plateau, to the sea, scintillated in brilliant
+color; even the great<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">330</a></span> stone lanterns that were so unique the evening
+previous now stood out in bold relief, and the old torii was statelier
+than ever. As the little village and shore line faded away, we wished an
+artist could have caught the view. We sailed out into the finest part of
+the Inland Sea, where the shore was deeply indented with rocky
+promontories, which first ended in a high projection to our right; to
+the left was a continuous line of low islands. A wide extent of open sea
+was the next scene in the panorama, to be succeeded by a picturesque
+island, clad in verdure; then two small, boldly defined, rocky islands;
+next a low range of five islands slightly connected, seeming like a tiny
+range in mid-ocean; a higher chain of islands was crenellated and
+presented the appearance of being scooped out and showing a light yellow
+soil. The scene now narrowed, and the mountains on either side showed
+signs of cultivation, the terraces running almost to the top. The guide
+told us that barley was the principal cereal raised. A marvellous island
+to our left now presented itself; this had a high, rocky base, from
+which seemingly sprang a miniature forest, the tall towering evergreens
+lending a fringelike appearance near the skyline. And so the panorama
+continued with ever-increasing variety.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image169.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Stone lanterns, Miyajima" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Stone_lanterns_Miyajima" id="Stone_lanterns_Miyajima"></a>Stone lanterns, Miyajima</span></div>
+
+<p>We paused at Ujima, the port of Hiroshima, where perhaps is located the
+most wonderful <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">331</a></span>garden in Japan. Ujima is a place of twelve thousand
+inhabitants, and the taking on of cargo consumed an hour. Soon after, we
+came to an island which had been transformed into a magazine; the side
+presented to us was a solid wall of rock. This was the precursor to our
+arrival at Kore, the most important naval station in Japan. The steamer
+touched anchor, which gave us an opportunity to note the many
+war-vessels in the harbor, three of which had been captured from the
+Russians.</p>
+
+<p>Our next point for landing passengers was Tukehare, in the narrowest
+part of the Inland Sea, with the Pass of Oudo in Sato-See. Here
+something unexpected occurred, as the steamer ran aground; and, after
+persistent efforts to effect our release, a naval craft came to our
+assistance and had to tow the steamer through.</p>
+
+<p>The scene now widened so that the shore seemed distant; this gave leeway
+for shipping of various kinds, large and small, and at one time I
+counted forty-five craft around us. Small sampans with three or four
+sails predominated. Our interest now centred not so much on shore as on
+boldly defined islands that occasionally came into view. In another
+place there were five promontories apparently in a direct line,&mdash;the
+first, dark green; the next, pale green; the next, brown in tint; the
+next, rocky; the fifth, foliage,&mdash;a veritable poem in color. We stopped<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">332</a></span>
+for passengers three times before reaching our destination.</p>
+
+<p>Our lovely trip on the Inland Sea ended at the little port of Onomichi,
+where, you will remember, we passed the night at a Japanese inn. We left
+at once, and visited some of the temples for which Onomichi is famous.
+We first went to a very old Buddhist place with an equally ancient
+pagoda, Sinkokuji; this was at quite a height above the street, and was
+in decay. Interest centred chiefly in the Senkiji Temple, rudely formed
+of huge blocks of granite which seem to spring from the soil; to reach
+this, we climbed a succession of tiers of stairs, each landing affording
+an extended view of the hamlet. The shrine and the details of this
+rock-bound temple were very simple, but there was a weird impressiveness
+about it.</p>
+
+<p>At five we took the train for Kobe, arriving there at nine, this time
+staying at the Mikado Hotel. Having been there twice before, the visit
+was simply in order to break the trip to Yokohama; so a jinrikisha ride
+and a visit to a few shops the morning following sufficed in the
+sight-seeing line; and in the evening we took the night train for
+Yokohama, arriving there early on the morning of June 12th. Yokohama was
+to be our headquarters until the homeward sailing, June 29th.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image170.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Islands of the Inland Sea" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Islands_of_the_Inland_Sea" id="Islands_of_the_Inland_Sea"></a>Islands of the Inland Sea</span></div>
+
+<p>I have before spoken of the beauty of the bay <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">333</a></span>and the fine location of
+the city. The heights reminded me of Hong-Kong; but on this third visit
+the scene seemed to have gained new interest, for all Nature was in her
+Summer dress, and the streets and parks teemed with life. There were
+many jinrikisha rides and much general enjoyment during the two weeks
+and a half that followed. Yokohama is a modern city and not famed for
+sight-seeing particularly, aside from the shops, which are of great
+interest and are filled with beautiful things; the curios, silks, and
+embroideries were very enticing, and, as dressmaking can be done well
+and economically by many of the Chinese tailors, some time is devoted
+even by tourists to that.</p>
+
+<p>Moto-machi Temple is of interest, heading the little shopping street of
+that name, which, with Benten-dori divides the interest as regards small
+but well-equipped native stores. The temple is Buddhist.</p>
+
+<p>Nogeshima is a hill from which an extended view of the city and harbor
+may be enjoyed. With cherry blossoms in May, great fields of
+many-colored iris marked the month of June, and an expedition to such a
+field proved attractive. The ride around Mississippi Bay is possibly the
+greatest trip for an afternoon's excursion. A picturesque feature of the
+city is the one hundred steps leading to the heights, on the top of
+which is a tea-house, largely frequented<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">334</a></span> by residents. The many
+pleasant homes and churches make the heights very attractive, and one
+morning we extended our jinrikisha ride to the outskirts so as to visit
+the gardens and greenhouses of a young Japanese who supplies the hotel
+with peculiar dwarfed plants for the dining-room tables. We saw some
+maples and cedars twelve inches in height and fifteen years old.</p>
+
+<p>The park, attractive at any time, is especially interesting in May on
+account of the cherry blossoms. It must be remembered that Yokohama was
+only a fishing village when Commodore Perry anchored there in 1854; it
+was not the treaty port until 1858, and from that time begins its
+commercial importance. The greatest portion of the city as it now exists
+dates from after the fire of 1866, and the bluff on which most of the
+residents have their dwellings was first leased for building purposes in
+1867; since then a large native town has sprung up outside the foreign
+settlement.</p>
+
+<p>The principal excursion from Yokohama is to Kamakura, about one hour's
+ride by train. It was once the capital of Japan, from the end of the
+twelfth to the fifteenth century, numbering over one million
+inhabitants; but it now affords no indication of its former glory; it is
+only a little seaside village to-day, and its principal interests are
+the great Dai-butzu, or Buddha, and certain other temples; the Buddha is
+renowned among<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">335</a></span> Japanese works of art. We took a jinrikisha from the
+station, and first visited the Temple of Hachiman, which occupies a high
+position on a hill and is reached through an avenue of pine trees. We
+passed through three stone toriis before reaching the temple, which
+stands at the head of a broad flight of stone steps.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image171.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Mississippi Bay" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Mississippi_Bay" id="Mississippi_Bay"></a>Mississippi Bay</span></div>
+
+<p>The perspective when approaching the gigantic Buddha is fine, and gives
+one, at a distance even, the impression of great majesty. This work
+dates from about 1252 <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> It was originally enclosed in a building,
+fifty yards square, whose roof was supported on sixty-three massive
+wooden pillars. The temple buildings were twice destroyed by tidal
+waves, since which they have not been re-erected, and the image has
+therefore been exposed to the elements. Within the statue is a large
+room. As we approached the great bronze Buddha, we realized an
+indefinable, spiritual significance; it stands over forty-nine feet high
+and ninety-seven feet in circumference, but appears serene, seemingly in
+the attainment of absolute peace after having reached the Nirvana.</p>
+
+<p>The Temple of Kwannon is not far from the Dai-butzu, on an eminence,
+commanding a beautiful view of the seashore and the plain. We had
+luncheon at a pretty seaside hotel, Kamakura now being a Summer resort.
+Afterwards we took a tram for the Sacred Island of Enoshima.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">336</a></span> Arriving
+at the village of Katse, we walked across to the island. Enoshima
+presents a high wooded aspect, and through the foliage on the heights
+one can obtain glimpses of many tea-houses. From the earliest ages the
+island was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist goddess of love. Nearly all of
+the temples are dedicated to Shinto goddesses. The most sacred spot is a
+cave on the far side of the island, one hundred and twenty-four yards in
+depth, the height at the entrance being at least thirty feet.</p>
+
+<p>We next took the train for Yumoto, the point of departure by jinrikisha
+for Miyanoshita.</p>
+
+<p>The train ride to Yumoto was most unusual, as the line lay through a
+succession of small villages, the road sometimes being so narrow that we
+could see into the homes or look into shop windows as we went through a
+business street. At Yumoto we took a jinrikisha for the ascent to
+Miyanoshita; the route was picturesque. To the left were mountains, the
+rocky sides sometimes projecting over the roadway, and giving me the
+sensation of imminent danger.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image172.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="View of Miyanoshita" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="View_of_Miyanoshita" id="View_of_Miyanoshita"></a>View of Miyanoshita</span></div>
+
+<p>To the right, far below, was a long extended valley through which poured
+a mountain stream, the murmur of which was a continual refrain. On the
+other side of the valley was a towering range of mountains. The whole
+scene affects one in a peculiarly subtle way; there is a sensation of
+being withdrawn from the actual experiences, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">337</a></span>of living in a new and
+far-away world. Suddenly the road diverged, and we had mountains on
+either side; another turn, and on a tree was a signboard, "Durkee's
+Scotch Whiskey." Instantly the "supreme moment" vanished, and I was
+again in my home city, and one of a band of women battling "the
+bill-board nuisance." I was rebellious at thus being despoiled of my
+poetic mood and tried to regain lost ground, but erelong another turn
+and Durkee's Scotch Whiskey again appeared! Sadly I resigned myself to
+fate and awaited our arrival at the Fujira Hotel.</p>
+
+<p>It was dark when we reached the little village and went still farther up
+the slope to where the lights were gleaming from the circling,
+four-divisioned hostelry.</p>
+
+<p>As I entered the spacious hall and caught glimpses of the adjacent
+apartments, then went upward to my own dainty room furnished in European
+style, I felt a sense of relief. Two little maids appeared to offer
+service, a pretty kimono and slippers suggested comfort, and I was
+content! Descending to the dining-room a little later, I met an English
+lady and her brother, who had been steamer and hotel companions several
+times, and this furnished more good cheer.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning, I joined an early party for the excursion to Lake
+Hakone. It was a glorious day and promised well for the hoped-for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">338</a></span> view
+of Mt. Fujiyama, 12,000 feet above the sea.</p>
+
+<p>The way is too rough and mountainous to be taken other than in a sedan
+chair. At first we had lovely mountain scenery, then the road grew
+wilder and mountain gorges appeared on either hand, then in one place
+there were far distant mountains, a nearer range almost sloping to our
+pathway. Sometimes the ascent was so steep and the path so narrow that
+it required much holding on to retain the seat in the chair.</p>
+
+<p>This was even more difficult when we began to make our descent to the
+village, which is, however, 2378 feet above the sea (Miyanoshita is 1377
+feet). The little Japanese tea-house where we tarried and had our
+luncheon is finely located close to the shore of Lake Hakone, a
+beautiful body of water with wooded shores. This lake is popular for
+boating and bathing.</p>
+
+<p>From the window we looked out on the distant sacred mountain, Fujiyama,
+which is revered by all Japan. Sometimes the clouds rested lovingly on
+its crest, and sometimes almost veiled it, but twice we saw the entire
+snow-covered space and no adjective can describe the matchless glory of
+that view. Poets have sung of it, and legend has woven fantastic tales
+around it, which the natives accept without a doubt.</p>
+
+<p>Mt. Fugii is the scene in Summer of constant visitations&mdash;about forty
+thousand pilgrims appearing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">339</a></span> there yearly, mostly of the working-class.
+Before the sixteenth century the mountain was in a constant state of
+eruption, the last great activity occurring at the beginning of the
+eighteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>The ride across the lake is pleasant,&mdash;the castle an interesting
+feature,&mdash;and by taking it, one discovers a different way to return to
+Miyanoshita, but I preferred the route of the morning, as the reverse
+views are always reinforcingly interesting.</p>
+
+<p>There were pleasant short walks from our hotel and many very easy
+excursions, so one naturally lingers, as long as possible. The friends I
+alluded to had been there two weeks. I left with regret.</p>
+
+<p>The third morning we started out in a pouring rain, and so had a closed
+jinrikisha; if we missed the beauty of the scenery in our descent to
+Yumoto, we took comfort in the fact that we escaped the "bill-board"!</p>
+
+<p>Arriving at Yokohama, I found a whole bevy of friends at the hotel
+awaiting the departure of the next steamer for San Francisco. We had all
+met at different places, once, twice, or thrice, and thus pleasant
+reminiscences and sociability now prevailed. Three were to leave on the
+<i>Korea</i>, scheduled to sail on June 29th, which augured well for my
+homeward passage.</p>
+
+<p>I had intended returning to Tokio, but, remembering<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">340</a></span> each detail of my
+former visit vividly, I decided instead to try to see Tokio through
+others' eyes. The Emperor and Empress are spoken of with the utmost
+respect, the Emperor being progressive in public and political ideas.
+The Empress is said to have a fine mind and to be accomplished; in
+matters of social importance she has been instrumental in breaking down
+many barriers; and while we needs must regret the adoption of Parisian
+modes of dress by the court, we must remember it was done with the
+distinct purpose of harmonizing the customs of the Orient with those of
+the Occident. A diplomat spoke of Tokio as an agreeable place of
+residence in every way. Native and foreign hospitality in the home are
+absolutely separate; the Japanese wife does not receive general visits,
+but her husband may entertain royally at his club, and most elaborate
+entertainments are spoken of. The social circles of Tokio and Yokohama
+have common interests, as the cities are but a short distance apart and
+there is a mutual acquaintance. I met two American ladies who have
+resided over thirty-five years in Yokohama, and they are most loyal in
+their views.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image173.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Theatre Street in Yokohama" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Theatre_Street_in_Yokohama" id="Theatre_Street_in_Yokohama"></a>Theatre Street in Yokohama</span></div>
+
+<p>In other lands I have visited, I have only dared give a tourist's
+impressions fortified by some acknowledged authority, or by those who
+have had the advantage of a long-time residence. My Japanese impressions
+can only hint at what <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">341</a></span>this wonderful land offers in beauty, in poetic
+sentiment, and in development of life. To understand her people, one
+must be a student for years; even Lafcadio Hearn admitted, after sixteen
+years, that he knew very little of the land and of the people. Every
+bow, every courtesy embodies a tradition of ages, handed down from
+generation to generation. This truth should do away with the popular
+belief that Japanese courtesy is all affectation.</p>
+
+<p>There is another statement that ought to be carefully considered; it is
+that the Japanese, as a people, are dishonest. I have heard this opinion
+expressed usually in a comparison between the Chinese and the Japanese,
+the instance of employment of Chinese bookkeepers and accountants being
+cited as proof. I talked with several persons who had ground for their
+belief, and the consensus of opinion exonerated the Japanese from so
+serious a charge. One said the Japanese, with all their versatility,
+have little aptitude for figures and realize it; another said that a
+descendant of the old samurai would scorn to take the position of a
+bookkeeper, considering the position beneath him. Everywhere in Japan I
+left doors and drawers unlocked and never lost an article. At the hotel
+in Yokohama, when leaving for a three days' absence, I applied at the
+office for keys to the chiffonier and wardrobe. The clerk said, "Does
+your door lock?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">342</a></span> I replied, "Yes." "You need then have no fear, as the
+servants are invariably honest." One gentleman, however, admitted that
+in the matter of the verbal contract the Chinaman would consider it to
+be as binding as a written one, while the Japanese might break it. We
+Americans usually require written contracts at home, and we occasionally
+hear of dishonesty and defalcation; but would we for a moment like to be
+considered a dishonest people because of these isolated instances?</p>
+
+<p>We were constantly meeting some one who was contrasting the two
+countries with a view of emphasizing China's supremacy. Many seemed
+jealous because Japan had succeeded in shaking off the shackles imposed
+by law and custom, and had made remarkable strides along the lines of
+progress. China with her wonderful past, her great resources and
+intellectual force, will do the same thing some day, when she emerges
+from a tyranny of law and tradition that covers a "modern" period of
+three thousand years. The victory of Japan over China in 1894 taught one
+lesson; but the Russian-Japanese war was even a greater lesson,&mdash;one
+that the new party in China has not failed to make use of, and only time
+can tell the outcome. The difference between the two nations is one of
+kind, not of degree; there is little racial sympathy between them, and
+fifty years from now, if one reads the signs<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">343</a></span> correctly, there may be
+more sympathy between Japan and Russia than between Japan and China.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image174.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Mountains around Hakona" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Mountains_around_Hakona" id="Mountains_around_Hakona"></a>Mountains around Hakona</span></div>
+
+<p>The Japanese are sincere in their unbounded desire to improve,
+particularly to acquire a knowledge of English and other languages. In
+shops or corners you will see unkempt boys poring over an English primer
+or reader. They are all provident as a people, and since the close of
+the war the nation has bent every energy toward industrial development.</p>
+
+<p>Considerable has been said about the Japanese war loan; there is
+authority for stating that much of the money thus borrowed at that time
+was used for industrial expansion, as six railways alone were bought in
+1906, and we have seen the amount expended in Manchuria in keeping up a
+long line in an alien land at a great expense. Of Japan's commercial
+future much might be said. Truly, we of the United States ought to
+respect a people who have ideals somewhat like our own.</p>
+
+<p>So many courtesies had been extended to us at the Grand Hotel in
+Yokohama that we left with a profound feeling of appreciation. The
+steamer <i>Korea</i>, of the Pacific Line, was to be our home for sixteen
+days. A friend arrived from North China, who became my room-mate, and
+the conditions were in every way pleasant. The social life aboard was
+similar to that on an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">344</a></span> English steamer; many games were projected and
+prizes given, the most elaborate things being reserved for the Fourth of
+July, both for children and adults. Greatly to my surprise, I was
+awakened on that morning by a volley of fire-crackers from the end of
+the deck. A festive spirit prevailed all day, and in the evening an
+extensive concert was given in the salon.</p>
+
+<p>The first real excitement was our arrival at Honolulu on July 9th, where
+we were allowed one day. The city, with its beautiful location and
+tropical vegetation, is too well known to need description. We went
+first by automobile to Mt. Pali, quite a distance in the country; here
+we had a wonderful view looking across a long level stretch to a point
+beyond which were rice-fields in the stage of early green, and beyond
+that a sugar plantation, and beyond that still farther off a mass of
+green foliage. The landscape at once marked Honolulu as being somewhat
+akin to Java. The mountains here are volcanic in their origin.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image175.jpg" width="500" height="336" alt="Mount Pali, Honolulu" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a name="Mount_Pali_Honolulu" id="Mount_Pali_Honolulu"></a>Mount Pali, Honolulu</span></div>
+
+<p>Returning from Pali, we went to the Punch Bowl and Diamond Head, an
+extinct volcano. Next, we took a long drive along the sea front to the
+beautiful hotel called Moana, where we met friends. The ride led through
+one of the principal residence streets, and we noticed beautiful homes
+with their extensive grounds and profusion of palms, shrubs, and
+flowers. We also <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">345</a></span>saw the former palace of the Queen, which is now
+reserved as the Governor's residence. We then went to Young's Hotel for
+lunch, and, after that, visited some minor points of interest and some
+shops, returning to the steamer in the late afternoon, feeling that
+Honolulu was indeed one of the beauty spots of earth. On <a name="Homeward_bound" id="Homeward_bound"></a>reaching the
+ship, it seemed as if every passenger&mdash;man, woman, and child&mdash;was
+decorated with long wreaths of flowers reaching to the ground; the
+flowers are ruthlessly pulled to pieces and strung together to tempt the
+tourists. It was really a very beautiful sight, but unfortunately the
+flowers soon faded.</p>
+
+<p>The day following we saw the battle fleet, only about two miles distant,
+<i>en route</i> for Yokohama; there were fifteen war-vessels, and it was
+indeed a wonderful spectacle.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived in the harbor of San Francisco at noon on July 14th, and,
+after the usual delay with the health officer, we were soon in the
+throes of the custom house, and it was an ordeal never before
+experienced. We had been told by the steward on the steamer that we must
+strictly follow the regulations laid down in the circular issued by the
+Government, December, 1907. I paid the penalty of my honesty, and the
+law was strictly enforced. I said to the custom house officer: "The lady
+opposite was through nearly an hour ago." He remarked: "She probably<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">346</a></span>
+told a good many lies." And that was the consolation I had; having paid
+my duty in a resigned frame of mind, believing in a protective tariff, I
+departed.</p>
+
+<p>The view of the harbor as we entered had seemed quite as it was of old,
+and indeed its beauty impressed me more than ever before; but, as I left
+the wharf and drove along some of the streets of the earthquake-stricken
+city, there was a heartache, so much of wreck and ruin was evident. My
+companion, who was in San Francisco two years before, told me that the
+renovation seemed wonderful,&mdash;an opinion in which I concurred after
+arriving at the St. Francis Hotel, for there were fine blocks newly
+built in the vicinity.</p>
+
+<p>I remained a few days in San Francisco, and visited certain familiar
+points, most of my friends being out of the city in the month of July. I
+went across to the beautiful suburb of Oakland and visited some shops
+which seemed to me quite equal (except in their buildings) to those of
+old. No one can visit San Francisco at the present time without being
+impressed with the energy and enthusiasm displayed and by the amount of
+work being accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>I left on July 20th, over the Shasta route of the Southern Pacific. This
+way is so widely known for its beauty of scenery that it seems
+unnecessary to attempt any description. Mt.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">347</a></span> Shasta wore a smiling face
+the morning of our arrival, the recent heat wave having melted much of
+the snow that crowns its rugged summit.</p>
+
+<p>Portland has a splendid location, with mountains and the sea alike
+accessible, broad streets, and an unusually fine residence portion. Mt.
+Hood was, however, wreathed in smoke on account of the prevailing forest
+fires. The railway journey from Portland to Seattle is not lacking in
+interest, as there is varied scenery the entire way.</p>
+
+<p>A week in Seattle revived the impression of three years since, but the
+city has made wonderful progress meanwhile, not only in growth of
+population but in important public buildings and in the wealth of
+private residences, particularly on the heights for which Seattle, like
+San Francisco, is famous. Mt. Rainier was shrouded in mist and smoke,
+but Puget Sound and Lakes Washington and Union added unusual features to
+the landscape setting.</p>
+
+<p>A detour of a day to Tacoma showed another beautifully located city high
+above Puget Sound, which, having once been very prosperous, passed
+through a reactionary stage, but is again alert and vigorous. Tacoma has
+also fine buildings and attractive homes, and a great future lies before
+it.</p>
+
+<p>The railway journey from Seattle to Bellingham&mdash;about one hundred
+miles&mdash;is interesting,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">348</a></span> for until we reach Everett we have Puget Sound
+to our left and forests to our right, only broken at a few points by
+small towns. Then we lose sight of the Sound until within a few miles of
+Bellingham. The next reach of intervening waterway is termed Bellingham
+Bay, and it furnishes a setting for a city situated both on hills and
+lowland, withal very picturesque, Mt. Baker near in view and the Selkirk
+range dimly visible. Bellingham is really a combination of four towns,
+Whatcom, Fair Haven, Sea Home, and South Bellingham; it is a city of
+about thirty-seven thousand inhabitants. The unifying process is going
+on, and in a few years its separate identity will be forgotten, for with
+its large interests&mdash;lumber and the salmon fisheries (here are located
+the most important establishments in the world for the canning of
+salmon)&mdash;Bellingham has a future before it, and my sojourn there is
+fraught with many pleasant recollections of courtesies received, aside
+from the good cheer of my daughter's home.</p>
+
+<p>The State of Washington, with its fine climate, great forests, and
+fertile soil, supplemented by natural beauty of landscape, proved a
+revelation to me.</p>
+
+<p>My way eastward lay over the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Three years
+previous I had passed days in the Canadian Rockies; so Vancouver,
+Glacier, Field, Laggan, and Banff recalled familiar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">349</a></span> associations, while
+the intervening scenery had lost none of its exciting interest. Certain
+it is that you rarely find finer mountains, either at home or abroad.</p>
+
+<p>A few hours' stay in St. Paul and the renewal of some pleasant
+associations, and I was speeding homeward, arriving in Milwaukee early
+on the morning of September 30, 1908, almost a year from the time of my
+departure.</p>
+
+<p>In closing let me quote an extract, written eight years ago, on a return
+with my daughter from over a year's absence abroad (including the
+Western Orient): "Gazing on the lake front at Juneau Park and looking
+onward to the terraced slopes of Prospect Avenue, then on to the sky
+line of the water-tower, I exclaimed, 'No fairer scene has met my
+vision.' At which sentiment the bronze statue of Solomon Juneau before
+me seemed to nod approval, as a Founder should."</p>
+
+<p class="noinc"><br /><br />
+THE END
+</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Realizing from personal experience, as well as from
+observation, that the mosques are too hurriedly visited and too little
+understood, an attempt at classification has here been made, as well as
+to give them a certain setting. This may prove a reminiscence to those
+who are familiar with the mosques, and an incentive to investigation on
+the part of those who are yet to visit Cairo.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> In 1877 Delhi acquired prominence as the place where H.M.
+Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India. The magnificent
+Coronation Durbar of H.M. King Edward VII of England was also held there
+by Lord Curzon, Viceroy of India, on January 1, 1900.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> This seeming repetition refers to a second Pearl Mosque.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Buitenzorg divides the honor with Batavia of being a
+capital, and its beauty of location and fine climate (seven hundred feet
+above the sea-level) make it a favorite resort, as well as the centre of
+the wealth and fashion of the island. In Buitenzorg one might linger on
+indefinitely and never count the days.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> There has been a yearly revenue of $20,000,000 for some
+time.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Mr. Macheeda proved himself worthy of his descent from the
+Samurai; always a gentleman and a perfect guide.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> For a full and picturesque account of this process, the
+reader is referred to Kipling's "From Sea to Sea."</p></div></div>
+<hr />
+<div class="tnote">
+<p class="noinc"><big>Transcriber's Note:</big></p>
+
+<p>Every attempt has been made to preserve the author's variant spelling
+and punctuation. Obvious spelling error's or place name references have
+been corrected as shown below:</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="2" summary="Transcriber's Note">
+
+<tr><td class="page"><b>Page</b></td><td align='left'><b>Author</b></td><td align='left'><b>Transcriber</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td><td align='left'>crediulous</td><td align='left'>credulous</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td><td align='left'>beleve</td><td align='left'>believe</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td><td align='left'>Dteb-Fatehpur-Sikri</td><td align='left'>Fatehpur-Sikri</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td><td align='left'>Shiah Mahal</td><td align='left'>Shish Mahal</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td><td align='left'>superstitition</td><td align='left'>superstition</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td><td align='left'>Kyank taw Gyi</td><td align='left'>Kyauk Taw Gyi</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td><td align='left'>Conemara</td><td align='left'>Connemara</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_126">126</a></td><td align='left'>pinkahs</td><td align='left'>punkahs</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_151">151</a></td><td align='left'>chicona</td><td align='left'>chichona</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td><td align='left'>Water Castel</td><td align='left'>Water Castle</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_171">171</a></td><td align='left'>kimona</td><td align='left'>kimono</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></td><td align='left'>cerain</td><td align='left'>certain</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_200">200</a></td><td align='left'>Nuen Tang</td><td align='left'>Nuen-tung</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_266">266</a></td><td align='left'>China</td><td align='left'>Japan</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="page"><a href="#Page_330">330</a></td><td align='left'>mavellous</td><td align='left'>marvellous</td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels in the Far East, by Ellen Mary Hayes
+Peck
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Travels in the Far East
+
+
+Author: Ellen Mary Hayes Peck
+
+
+
+Release Date: March 31, 2008  [eBook #24971]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Peter Vachuska, Chuck Greif, Greg Bergquist, and the
+Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team
+(https://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 24971-h.htm or 24971-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/9/7/24971/24971-h/24971-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/9/7/24971/24971-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST
+
+[Illustration: _The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo_]
+
+
+TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST
+
+by
+
+ELLEN M. H. PECK
+(Mrs. James Sidney Peck)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+New York
+Thomas Y. Crowell & Co.
+Publishers
+
+Copyright 1909
+By Ellen M. H. Peck
+
+The University Press, Cambridge, U.S.A.
+
+
+
+
+OZYMANDIAS
+
+
+  I met a traveller from an antique land
+  Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
+  Stand in the desert. Near them, on the sand,
+  Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown,
+  And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command,
+  Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
+  Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
+  The hand that mocked them and the heart that fed:
+  And on the pedestal these words appear:
+  "My name is Ozymandias, king of kings;
+  Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
+  Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
+  Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare
+  The lone and level sands stretch far away.
+
+  --PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY
+
+
+TO MY DAUGHTER
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD
+
+
+As the inspiration which caused the making of this "Tour" came from my
+daughter (the "you" of my story), and as she wished a record of the same
+published, my desire has been to give her as complete an idea of my
+journeyings as is possible by descriptive text and illustrations. The
+interest of friends in the plan has caused them to be included in my
+thought, and if the public desire to be added to the personal
+acquaintances whom I regard as my readers it will prove a pleasant
+recognition of a modest plan.
+
+The nine months tour included Egypt, Northern India, Burma, Southern
+India, Ceylon, Malay Peninsula, Java, Siam, Southern China, Japan,
+Northern China, Manchuria, and Korea.
+
+Realizing that impressions suddenly formed are not always to be trusted,
+an attempt has been made to have them tested by comparison with those
+formed by a longer residence.
+
+In like manner only statements have been made on the authority of those
+who claimed to have knowledge and experience. The lack of guidance of
+either a Baedeker or a Murray has been felt in Java, Siam, China,
+Manchuria, and Korea, small local guide books and guides not being an
+equivalent as regards accurate testimony.
+
+May these pages prove a pleasant reminiscence to those who have visited
+the scenes described, and an introduction to those who have not thus
+travelled, but some of whom may plan to "do likewise."
+
+  E.M.H.P.
+
+  MILWAUKEE, December, 1908
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+                          PAGE
+
+  MILWAUKEE                  1
+
+  CHICAGO                    1
+
+  NEW YORK                   1
+
+  THE AZORES                 4
+
+  GIBRALTAR                  4
+
+  MARSEILLES                 5
+
+  PORT SAID                  7
+
+  CAIRO                      9
+
+  SUEZ CANAL                34
+
+  ADEN, ARABIA              36
+
+  BOMBAY                    37
+
+  JEYPORE                   48
+
+  DELHI                     56
+
+  AGRA                      67
+
+  FATEHPUR-SIKRI            76
+
+  CAWNPORE                  79
+
+  LUCKNOW                   80
+
+  BENARES                   82
+
+  SILIGURI                  88
+
+  DARJEELING                89
+
+  CALCUTTA                  93
+
+  BURMA                     97
+
+  PROME                    109
+
+  RANGOON                  109
+
+  SHWE DAGON               111
+
+  MADRAS                   116
+
+  TANJORE                  118
+
+  TRICHINOPOLY             120
+
+  MADURA                   122
+
+  TUTICORIN                124
+
+  COLOMBO                  124
+
+  NUWARA ELIYA             127
+
+  KANDY                    129
+
+  ANURADHAPURA             132
+
+  CEYLON                   141
+
+  BATAVIA, JAVA            145
+
+  BUITENZORG               147
+
+  GAROET                   150
+
+  DJOKJAKARTA              154
+
+  MAOS                     166
+
+  BANGKOK                  174
+
+  SINGAPORE                201
+
+  JOHORE                   201
+
+  HONG-KONG                204
+
+  CANTON                   209
+
+  MACAO                    216
+
+  SHANGHAI                 225
+
+  NAGASAKI                 229
+
+  KOBE                     231
+
+  ONOMICHI                 232
+
+  OSAKA                    233
+
+  KYOTO                    234
+
+  NARA                     246
+
+  YAMADA                   248
+
+  NAGOYA                   250
+
+  YOKOHAMA                 251
+
+  NIKKO                    252
+
+  TOKIO                    260
+
+  A VISIT TO NORTH CHINA   264
+
+  PEKING                   273
+
+  TIENTSIN                 301
+
+  SHANHAIKWAN              302
+
+  MUKDEN                   305
+
+  NIUCHWANG                309
+
+  DALNY                    310
+
+  PORT ARTHUR              310
+
+  CHEMULPO, SEOUL          317
+
+  TOWARD YOKOHAMA          326
+
+  HOMEWARD BOUND           345
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+  The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo                       _Frontispiece_
+
+  Meshrebeeyeah windows                                                6
+
+  A bridge spanning the Nile at Cairo                                 11
+
+  The peculiar head-dress of the Cairo women                          13
+
+  The Mosque of Amr                                                   17
+
+  The interior of the Tomb Mosque of Kalaun                           20
+
+  Fountain in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan                              24
+
+  Openwork dagobas                                                    26
+
+  Citadel and Mosque of Mahomet Ali                                   28
+
+  The obelisk marking the site of Heliopolis                          33
+
+  The Suez Canal near Port Said                                       36
+
+  Aden, Arabia                                                        39
+
+  Victoria Station at Bombay                                          41
+
+  Queen's Road at Bombay                                              43
+
+  Country scene in Bombay                                             44
+
+  A Tower of Silence                                                  46
+
+  Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta                           48
+
+  Street scene in Jeypore                                             51
+
+  A Hindu woman of Jeypore                                            53
+
+  Interior view of Amber Palace                                       55
+
+  General view of Amber Palace and fort near Jeypore                  57
+
+  A gateway built during the seventeenth century in Delhi             59
+
+  The Pearl Mosque at Delhi                                           59
+
+  The Hall of Private Audience in the Palace, Delhi                   61
+
+  Jumma Musjid, Delhi                                                 61
+
+  The tomb of Emperor Humayun                                         64
+
+  Northern colonnade of the Islam mosque, showing ruined arch         66
+
+  Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi                      68
+
+  Gateway leading to Taj Mahal                                        70
+
+  Taj Mahal                                                           70
+
+  Screen in Taj Mahal                                                 70
+
+  Shah Jahan and his wife in whose memory the Taj was built           70
+
+  Agra Palace and part of wall and gateway to the fort                73
+
+  An Octagon Tower of the Agra Palace                                 73
+
+  The Pearl Mosque                                                    74
+
+  Akbar's tomb in Sikandra                                            74
+
+  General view of Fatehpur-Sikri                                      77
+
+  A column in the Audience Hall (Diwan-i-Khas)                        78
+
+  Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj                           81
+
+  The ghat at Cawnpore                                                81
+
+  The Residency at Lucknow                                            82
+
+  Bathing ghat, Benares                                               84
+
+  Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur                       84
+
+  The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares                86
+
+  A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range                     89
+
+  A Nepaulese group                                                   91
+
+  The Government House in Calcutta                                    94
+
+  An avenue of palms in the Botanical Gardens                         96
+
+  Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay                                98
+
+  Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the Universe    98
+
+  The Arakan Pagoda                                                  100
+
+  One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas                        100
+
+  The Queen's Golden Monastery                                       103
+
+  Karen women in Mandalay                                            103
+
+  Burmese country house near Mandalay                                104
+
+  A national dance at Mandalay                                       107
+
+  On the Irrawaddy River, near Sagoing                               109
+
+  General view of Rangoon                                            111
+
+  Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon                                       112
+
+  Entrance gateway, Shwe Dagon Pagoda                                112
+
+  Chapels on platform around Shwe Dagon, Rangoon                     112
+
+  Elephants carrying logs at Rangoon                                 115
+
+  The Gilded Sule as seen from Hytche Square                         115
+
+  General view of Madras                                             117
+
+  The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore                            119
+
+  Fort Rock, Trichinopoly                                            121
+
+  The Golden Lily Tank, Madura                                       123
+
+  Entrance to the Madura Temple                                      123
+
+  Street Scene in Colombo                                            124
+
+  General view of Nuwara Eliya                                       129
+
+  General view of Kandy                                              131
+
+  Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy                           132
+
+  Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy                                132
+
+  Ruins of Anuradhapura                                              135
+
+  Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba                             136
+
+  The Moonstone Steps                                                139
+
+  Mihitale Steps                                                     141
+
+  Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon                                      143
+
+  The canal in the old city of Batavia                               144
+
+  Batavia, Java                                                      147
+
+  View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue                         149
+
+  A village scene in Garoet, Java                                    151
+
+  The crater of Papandajang                                          153
+
+  The ruined temple of Prambanam                                     155
+
+  Bas-reliefs in the Siva Temple, Prambanam                          155
+
+  The stairs leading to a Prambanam temple                           155
+
+  The Three Graces in the Lara Jongram Temple, Java                  157
+
+  The old temple at Mendoet                                          159
+
+  Boro Boedor, in Java                                               162
+
+  Stairway of Boro Boedor, Java                                      162
+
+  Boro Boedor, Java, showing one part of the gallery                 162
+
+  A public square in Djokjakarta, Java                               165
+
+  Designing sarongs in Batavia                                       167
+
+  Landscape near Batavia                                             169
+
+  Javanese vegetable sellers                                         170
+
+  A Javanese dignitary and his attendants                            172
+
+  The King of Siam                                                   175
+
+  In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok                         180
+
+  Entrance to Prakeo, the Royal Temple                               182
+
+  The Klong Canal at Bangkok                                         185
+
+  The famous Elephants' Kraal                                        189
+
+  Tower of Royal Palace at Ban-Pa-In                                 190
+
+  A Siamese girl                                                     193
+
+  A royal barge at Bangkok                                           194
+
+  The collier quay at Singapore                                      201
+
+  The Sultan's Palace at Johore                                      202
+
+  A general view of Hong-Kong                                        205
+
+  The public gardens in Hong-Kong                                    205
+
+  A typical street in a Chinese city                                 207
+
+  A five-story pagoda                                                211
+
+  Temple of the Five Genii at Canton                                 212
+
+  The San Paulo Facade                                               215
+
+  The bund at Macao, called Praia Grande                             216
+
+  The bund at Shanghai                                               224
+
+  Mogi Road at Nagasaki                                              228
+
+  The main street in Kobe                                            231
+
+  The fort and castle at Osaka                                       232
+
+  The rapids near Kyoto                                              235
+
+  Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto                                             235
+
+  The Golden Pavilion                                                237
+
+  The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa                    238
+
+  Kasuga Temple                                                      243
+
+  The Temple of Ise (Yamada)                                         249
+
+  Nagoya Castle                                                      250
+
+  The way to the Temple, Ieyasu                                      254
+
+  Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple                                            254
+
+  A five-story pagoda                                                257
+
+  The gate called Yomei-mon                                          259
+
+  The Imperial Palace at Tokio                                       261
+
+  Court of the Temple Shiba at Tokio                                 263
+
+  Gate of Chionin in Kyoto                                           264
+
+  Ueno Park pagoda                                                   264
+
+  The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River                        268
+
+  Road to Kaling above Kia-Kiang                                     270
+
+  The Hankow bund                                                    272
+
+  The Great Wall at Peking                                           274
+
+  Hata-men Gate                                                      277
+
+  Peking girls                                                       278
+
+  Llama Temple                                                       278
+
+  A Peking cart                                                      281
+
+  The Confucius Temple                                               281
+
+  Temple of Classics                                                 281
+
+  The Inner Temple of Heaven                                         282
+
+  Outer Heaven, Temple of Heaven, Peking                             285
+
+  The White Pagoda of the Yellow Temple                              286
+
+  The Winter Palace of the Forbidden City                            289
+
+  View from the Forbidden City                                       288
+
+  Marble Terrace of the Summer Palace                                291
+
+  Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace                                 291
+
+  Nankow Pass                                                        292
+
+  A tower of the Great Wall                                          295
+
+  Five Arch: First pailow of the Ming Tomb                           295
+
+  Emperor Yunglo's tomb                                              297
+
+  Emperor Kwangsu of China                                           298
+
+  The Dowager Empress of China                                       300
+
+  Gordon Hall at Tientsin                                            303
+
+  Old gateway of Tientsin                                            303
+
+  The Temple at Mukden                                               306
+
+  Dalny                                                              310
+
+  Port Arthur before the siege                                       313
+
+  Tiger-Tail Promontory and Port Arthur during the conflict          315
+
+  203-Metre Hill, Port Arthur--The last point to be taken            317
+
+  The city wall and gate of Seoul                                    319
+
+  A group of Koreans                                                 320
+
+  An old tomb of a high official                                     323
+
+  A white marble pagoda in Seoul                                     324
+
+  Street scene in Seoul                                              326
+
+  Torii Miyajima                                                     328
+
+  Stone lanterns, Miyajima                                           330
+
+  Islands of the Inland Sea                                          332
+
+  Mississippi Bay                                                    335
+
+  View of Miyanoshita                                                336
+
+  Theatre Street in Yokohama                                         340
+
+  Mountains around Hakona                                            343
+
+  Mount Pali, Honolulu                                               344
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST
+
+
+Milwaukee, _October 27th_, 1907: The adieux have been said, the friends
+have departed, and the train is moving slowly out of the station; a
+profusion of flowers, tempting new books, and other gifts are visible
+proofs of the thoughtfulness of friends on the eve of a long journey in
+untried fields, and it seems as if I had lost my moorings and was
+drifting out on an unknown way.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CHICAGO is reached, and after a hurried transfer of trains I am speeding
+on to my objective point, New York. An interval of two days and there is
+a hurried departure for the pier and "the die is cast."
+
+There is always a sense of exhilaration on the sailing of a steamer from
+New York, despite the sadness of the leave-taking; and the receipt of
+many gifts, telegrams, and letters keeps up the excitement until after
+the departure of the pilot. But as the shore line recedes and we drift
+out to sea, there comes a realization of an entire change of environment
+and of the rending of former interests, which is, of itself, a fine
+preparation for the mental equipment necessary to assimilate the new
+scenes to be visited.
+
+The November Second party of Collver Tours "Round the World," sailing on
+the _Friedrich der Grosse_, North German Lloyd line, was to embrace ten
+individuals, aside from an accomplished Director, each to be independent
+of the other, but all supposed to fit into a harmonious whole. After the
+formal presentations were over, there came a sense of relief, for
+refined manners, culture, and the experience of much travel were
+apparent, and promised well for the months of companionship which were
+to ensue.
+
+The localities represented by the several members in the party were as
+follows: Boston, three; Philadelphia, four; New York, one; Lafayette,
+Indiana, one; Ottawa, Illinois, one; and Milwaukee, Wisconsin, one. This
+is an indication of varied personality and diversified taste.
+
+The elements did not prove propitious in the days that followed our
+departure, and we were forced to bear the stress of wind and storm with
+becoming resignation, feeling personally thankful for indemnity from
+fatal results. Such a voyage does not lend itself to much diversion or
+variety of interests, but there were the usual attempts at gayety in the
+line of dancing, music, and the exhilarating "Captain's dinner"; hence
+with congenial people the days were pleasantly whiled away. Among the
+fellow passengers were some former friends, but I will mention only
+those who in a sense belong to the public.
+
+There was Mr. Edward P. Allis with his family; he was formerly of
+Milwaukee, but for many years has been a resident of Mentone, France,
+where he has continued his researches along biological lines, and where
+he has also superintended the publication of a valuable magazine
+relating to his special subject. I am happy to state that he has
+received, in consequence, distinguished recognition from the French
+Government, even the decoration of the Legion of Honor. He is also the
+recipient of orders from other foreign governments, and the Wisconsin
+University has conferred a high degree upon him.
+
+Another friend was Dr. Baldwin, of Rome, Italy, who has an international
+reputation as a specialist on diseases of the heart.
+
+A new acquaintance was Mr. Theodore M. Davis, of Newport, Rhode Island,
+who from November to April, on his finely appointed dahabiyeh, makes the
+Nile his home, at Luxor. For some years he has superintended valuable
+excavations in the Tombs of the Kings at Thebes, defraying the expense
+of the work himself. He holds the only concession granted by the
+Egyptian Government, on condition that the result of his discoveries
+become the property of the State; these so-termed "finds" are very
+valuable, and a special room has been devoted to them in the Museum of
+Gizeh at Cairo.
+
+Our arrival at the Azores was the first excitement of the voyage, and I
+had expected to renew the pleasant associations of the day we passed
+together on San Miguel, at the picturesque city of Ponta Delgada. But,
+alas! we sailed on and there was only a memory; by the subtle power of
+association another memory haunted me also, that of Funchal, Madeira,
+with its balmy air and luxuriant vegetation.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+GIBRALTAR: The world-renowned fortress of Gibraltar was reached after
+some hours' delay, and we were welcomed by sunshine and a June-like
+temperature.
+
+The attractions there are not numerous, but they are unique;
+unfortunately, a visit to the fortified galleries is now denied to
+visitors, but a beautiful drive to Europa Point and to the neutral
+ground, together with a walk through the park called the Alameda, is a
+fair compensation. The shops which line the narrow streets possess an
+Oriental aspect, and the general view of the massive fortifications
+afforded much interest to those who had not made a previous visit. But
+the picturesqueness of former visits--the motley crowd of Moors, Arabs,
+Spaniards, and Turks at the wharf--was lacking; while the venders of
+fruit, flowers, and laces were far less numerous, but quite as
+persistent, as of old.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_November 12th_: The steamer _Magnolia_, of the P. & O. line, became our
+home to Port Said, named for the Viceroy of Egypt, who granted the
+concession for the building of the Suez Canal. We were at once charmed
+with the general arrangement of the vessel, the salons for ordinary use
+being large and airy; the staterooms were smaller than those of the
+Atlantic service, but were finely ventilated.
+
+The passage to Marseilles, France, consumed about thirty-six hours, and
+the time was spent partly in planning a sight-seeing expedition to take
+place immediately after our arrival. The Gulf of Lyons, however, gave us
+a stormy reception; and, as the gale (mistral) increased, the harbor was
+reached. To be near a destination and yet unable to enter the port was
+most tantalizing!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MARSEILLES: The approach to Marseilles is rather disappointing, as there
+are intervening islands of bare rocks; but later the heights appear, the
+Church of Notre Dame de la Garde being a prominent feature of the view.
+
+Owing to the delay in landing, only two hours' stay on shore was
+granted, which was a great disappointment to many of us, but less so to
+me, as I had previously visited the city, and remembered the enjoyment
+derived from my stay there.
+
+On our return to the steamer, a novel sight presented itself. The vessel
+was anchored close to the dock on which is a low embarkation shed,
+fronting on a wide passage-way, which was now filled with a motley
+group. At the back there was a fringe of color from many baskets of
+fruit, flowers, and plants in charge of dealers, clad in costumes of
+varied hues, with red shawls tied over their heads. Each hawker was
+intent on extracting coins from the interested spectators, who hung over
+the side of the steamer. In the foreground were acrobats of every
+description, dressed in all the colors of the rainbow; among them was a
+group of five musicians of tender years, an acrobat in pink tights who
+was exploiting the skill of his little daughter, scarcely five years of
+age, and another similarly cruel father, who was compelling a little
+girl to go through all manner of contortions. There was also a group of
+little girl dancers. This picturesque but painful sight impressed us
+with the necessity for the establishment here of a society for the
+prevention of cruelty to children.
+
+[Illustration: _Meshrebeeyeah windows_]
+
+Two hundred and fifty more passengers were added to the steamer list at
+Marseilles, and henceforth the vessel was to be taxed to her utmost
+capacity. Most of the passengers were _en route_ for a five weeks'
+voyage to Australia, many of them were friends, and a general spirit of
+jollity prevailed, the decks presenting the appearance of a seaside
+veranda, with their tables, lounging-chairs, work-baskets, and toys. A
+"sports" committee was at once formed, and games of all kinds were
+played (always for prizes), while a concert, dances, and bridge
+enlivened the evening hours.
+
+On the night of November 17th we passed the volcano of Stromboli (now
+inactive), our steamer gliding between it on one side and the isles of
+Pina on the other; some hours later the Straits of Messina were reached;
+while, farther on, the island of Candida was passed. A church service
+was held aboard both morning and evening (the latter in the second-class
+salon), this being the invariable rule on English steamers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PORT SAID, _November 20th_: As we approached Port Said, everything was
+at first shadowy--the lighthouse, a group of palms, and a minaret
+seeming to rise out of the sea. There were a few points of land called
+Damietta, but all else was flat. At last we steamed into the harbor,
+anchoring at the mouth of the Suez Canal, and were taken ashore in a
+launch amidst a confused yelling of voices,--indeed a perfect Babel.
+
+With only three or four hours in Port Said, there was little time for a
+close survey, but we walked through some of the streets, called at a few
+shops of no special interest, and had afternoon tea at one of the
+hotels, to the accompaniment of music furnished by native musicians. We
+had always heard Port Said spoken of as "the wickedest place in the
+world," and we commented on the apparent absence of such a condition;
+but we were assured by one of the tourists that wickedness did exist,
+and we accepted the statement without an attempt to verify it.
+
+Port Said gains its principal importance from being the starting-point
+of that great waterway, the Suez Canal, of which we form our first
+impression from the fact that ten years' time was required for its
+construction and $100,000,000 were expended on the work, the payment of
+which impoverished Egypt and was one of the causes that led to the
+protectorate of England. This is said to be a humiliating condition to
+all true Egyptians.
+
+The monument at Port Said, raised in honor of Ferdinand de Lesseps, as
+the founder of the enterprise, emphasizes France's contribution to the
+project.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CAIRO, _November 20th_: A late train to Cairo caused us to arrive near
+midnight, an inopportune time for first impressions, but the memory of a
+former visit caused a pleasant anticipation of scenes to be revisited. A
+week, however, was too short a time in which to cover the ground, but by
+persistent effort on our part much was accomplished.
+
+Having headquarters at Shepheard's Hotel--with its foreign arrangement
+of rooms and furnishings, together with its gayly attired attendants,
+many of them costumed in red, yellow, green, or blue silk trimmed with
+gilt, and wearing silk turbans to match--gave us at once an Oriental
+environment. The central location of the building, with the opportunity,
+also, which the wide terrace afforded guests for making observations,
+offered us an immediate insight into the unique life of the city. The
+venders of fruit, flowers, postal cards, and souvenirs formed a
+foreground of many colors, while beyond was an unceasing flow of motley
+carriages, native vehicles, carts, donkeys, and camels, and sometimes
+two resplendent outriders (called "Sikhs"), on fine chargers, heralded
+the approach of some dignitary,--a custom which is, however, dying out.
+
+The most novel sight which came to our notice was a wedding procession,
+the bride being ever carefully concealed by silken curtains thrown over
+either a carriage or a peculiarly constructed litter borne by two
+camels, one at the front and one at the back; a band of music preceded,
+followed by vehicles of many different kinds containing members of the
+bridal party, all _en route_ for the bride's home.
+
+It must be remembered that Cairo, while in one sense a modern city,
+presents many clearly defined mediaeval phases; this is particularly true
+throughout its native quarters, as exemplified in streets and bazars in
+the vicinity of the Nile, and in its old-time mosques; in this
+connection I would emphasize the bazars, both Turkish and Arabic. Some
+of the old irregular thoroughfares on which the bazars are situated
+radiate from the wider and more important Muski; then, again, there are
+narrower alley-like streets, a veritable tangle! The bazars everywhere
+are similarly constructed, but vary in size and importance; they are
+box-like in form, from four to six feet in width, and six to eight feet
+in height, and are raised one or two feet from the ground, with three
+sides enclosed and the fourth open to the street by day, but at night
+closed, the fourth wall sliding into place like a folding door.
+
+Here is usually to be found, for a certain distance, but one kind of
+goods, be it slippers, brass-work, or embroideries, alternating with
+eatables, fruit, pipes, and the like, there being no attempt at
+classification. Woe be to the unwary who approach these bazars without
+the ability to "bargain"; for there is ever a scale of prices, and the
+topmost one is usually exorbitant!
+
+[Illustration: _A bridge spanning the Nile at Cairo_]
+
+Within the open space of his shop sits the dealer, ready for the
+contest, sometimes complacently sipping his coffee, or smoking a
+cigarette, the long Turkish pipes having been largely abolished. The
+courtesy of coffee or a cigarette is often extended to the purchaser,
+which possesses a mollifying effect if the discussion over a purchase
+has waxed high.
+
+It is said that the scenes in the Turkish bazars on a fete day are like
+a picture from the "Arabian Nights," the places being illuminated by
+many candles or chandeliers, and covered by awnings formed of rich
+shawls, scarfs, and embroideries brought from the interior. This gives
+each bazar the appearance of a reception room, with the dealer seated
+within, dispensing hospitality, every one being dressed in holiday
+attire. The bazars in Cairo are considered an important feature of the
+life of the city (as they are in every place throughout the Eastern or
+Western Orient), but they are less attractive than those I visited in
+Tunis, Constantinople, or Damascus.
+
+The crowd that is passing the shops often proves more interesting than
+the display within, as there are natives of all ages and descriptions,
+Arabs, Bedouins, Turks, and Egyptians, some mounted on donkeys and some
+driving heavily laden camels. Water-carriers with jars, mostly women,
+are among them, while the natives usually carry under the arm the
+characteristic pigskin, filled with water. These are the sights to be
+seen, together with the venders of fruit and vegetables, alternating
+with richly equipped carriages, and funeral or bridal processions. Men
+and women in their Oriental dress jostle the crowd of sight-seers who
+ever throng these ways.
+
+In these, but more often in a better class of streets, we pass the
+lovely meshrebiya windows, with their intricate turned lattice-work
+designs; they are very frequently oblong projecting windows, but instead
+of glass there is used the fine tracery or lattice-work in wood. Sad to
+relate, this fine work is sharing in the general decay to be found in
+the old quarters of Cairo, and, in a few years, the tourist will only be
+able to view the specimens even now being sent to the Arabian Museum,
+which institution is, by the way, doing a splendid work in preserving
+and classifying all artistic remains, notably those from the crumbling
+mosques.
+
+Except in the matter of decay, I found little change in the native
+portion of the city since my visit in 1898; but the aspect of the city
+proper has grown modern. Fine new streets, public buildings and
+residences, are seen everywhere in the Ezbekieh and Ismailian quarters
+of the city, while certain sections suggest a European capital. The
+Ezbekieh Gardens, opposite the Continental Hotel, form really a small
+park in the centre of the city, and are a great resort for tourists as
+well as residents.
+
+[Illustration: _The peculiar head-dress of the Cairo women_]
+
+The Ismailian is the fashionable quarter of the city, and it is said
+that many wealthy citizens have left their former luxurious native homes
+for a modern residence in the new section. Hence many dealers in the
+bazars have secured the deserted Oriental homes, and now live in
+comparative luxury, showing that conditions and residential centres
+change in the Old World as well as in the New.
+
+But note how much more attractive the original home must appear to
+native eyes. A passage leads from the street to a spacious court, and
+grouped around the court, which usually has a fountain in the centre
+(with sometimes one or two trees), are the rooms for general use and
+those assigned to guests. The apartments occupied by the women of the
+family, commonly called the harem, are not visible, but are generally
+spacious and well furnished, even luxuriously appointed, with inlaid
+floors, decorated walls, and rich rugs. The light filters through either
+meshrebiya or flat latticed windows, for no profane eye can gaze on the
+supposed loveliness of damsel and dame, nor can they, in their turn,
+gaze outward for any distance, which shows the restricted social
+condition of the women.
+
+It is said that they are virtually regarded with contempt, and, though
+usually kindly treated in the harem, they are considered only as
+ornamental appendages of the home; hence they are rarely educated, and
+never in more than those accomplishments, such as music and dancing,
+which tend to add to their attractiveness.
+
+The better classes of women are always seen veiled, and, with the
+peculiar covering over the nose, one can only judge of their appearance
+by their often very beautiful eyes. Oh, the infinite sadness to be found
+in the depths of many of them!
+
+I was, however, told by a gentleman, long resident in Cairo, that there
+are indications of a gradual change as regards education, the wives of a
+few high officials having been educated on broader lines than mere
+accomplishments; hence it is to be hoped that the leaven will work in
+time. It may also be found later that the transference of the harem from
+an Oriental home to a Number 9 residence on a fashionable street will
+lessen the seclusion heretofore imposed.
+
+The Nile is always a centre of interest, not only for those who explore
+it to the cataracts or Khartoum, but for natives and tourists who throng
+its banks to catch a glimpse of the queer sailing craft, and to watch
+the never-ending procession that passes over it,--men, women, vehicles,
+and animals filling every available space.
+
+It is quite the fashion for parties of tourists to repair to the bridge
+at 5 A.M. in order to watch the marketmen, venders of all kinds, and the
+heavily laden donkeys and camels fulfilling their part in the labor of
+supplying the city markets.
+
+Once across the bridge, the procession from the country is even more
+picturesque; and, viewed from a waiting "tram" in the late afternoon,
+when all are homeward bound, the scene is most incongruous. Sometimes
+four or five heavily veiled women in black robes are seen on one of the
+long two-wheeled carts, drawn by an emaciated horse with a native at his
+head as a propelling power; next, follow a flock of geese, two or three
+score of goats, a group of sheep, four or five camels looking down with
+a superior air on the donkeys, as well as pedestrians of many
+complexions and of varied dress--Arabs, Bedouins, Soudanese, and
+Egyptians,--their queerly shaped turbans and brilliant colors lending
+the finishing touch to the scene. Nowhere else in the Orient does such a
+view present itself, and its setting is the Nile!
+
+The last glimpse of the Nile, the evening before my departure, will
+never be forgotten. The occasion was an invitation to indulge in
+afternoon tea at the Hotel Semiramis, near the entrance to the bridge.
+We lingered on for the sunset, which first appeared as a flaming ball
+of fire, succeeded by myriad shades of rainbow hues, these fading into
+softer tints and later into those more delicate tones that prelude the
+twilight. Then silence seemed to brood over the wonderful river, and we
+departed.
+
+If the street scenes, the bazars, and the Nile are an index to the
+native life of Cairo, a greater claim may be made for the mosques, in
+which the city abounds; for they represent political changes, social
+evolution, and artistic development, as history proves. To substantiate
+this claim of the mosques, a brief digression is necessary.
+
+The origin of Cairo dates back to the Muslim invasion in 640; the
+original Arab settlement was called Fustat, the "Town of the Tent,"
+which is substantially the old Cairo of to-day. Here was erected almost
+at once the first mosque, that of Amr, sometimes called Amru. In 751 a
+northeast suburb was added, called El Askar; this was to be the
+residence of the Governor, and here also was erected the Mosque of El
+Askar. Keeping still to the northeast, another city was added, in 860,
+by the first independent Muslim King of Egypt, Ibn Tulun, called El
+Katai; the "wards" became divided into separate quarters for various
+nations and classes, and here was erected the remarkable Mosque of Ibn
+Tulun. A fourth city still farther northeast was added a little over a
+century later, called El Kahira (the Cairo of to-day); this did not
+become the commercial capital of Egypt, but occupied the same relation
+to Fustat that El Askar and Katai held. The Town of the Tent, resting on
+the bank of the Nile, still remained the metropolis, as it did after the
+fall of both El Askar and Katai--the disaster to these latter cities
+giving additional prestige to El Kahira.
+
+[Illustration: _The Mosque of Amr_]
+
+The building of a mosque[1] was regarded by the rulers not only as an
+expression of religious zeal, but as a contribution to the life of the
+State. Several mosques were erected during the two centuries of Arab
+rule, but Amr was the first and most important. It is situated near the
+site of the old Roman city of Misr, where Amr first pitched his tent, on
+the invasion of Egypt. The outside of the old mosque is not imposing,
+but, with the vast court forty thousand feet in area, surrounded by
+colonnades consisting of numberless columns with every variety of
+capitals (taken from Christian churches), it excites our admiration.
+Wooden beams, stretched from column to column, formerly supported one
+hundred and eighty thousand hanging lamps which illuminated the edifice
+every night, while throngs of learned men, professors, and persons of
+many conditions gathered there daily for lectures and discussion. The
+great convocation was on Friday, when a sermon and prayers were the
+order of the day, the immense court affording ample space for the
+multitude, while the large east end sanctuary gave room for persons of
+distinction to kneel. The mihrab, or niche, where worshippers turned
+toward Mecca, the pulpit, and the tribunal were also features of the
+edifice. We now see little of the original mosque, for it has been
+remodelled from time to time; but it still remains the best type of the
+congregational mosque (called Gami, meaning "assembly"), and to me it
+seemed, as I looked upon it, one of the most impressive monuments of a
+dead past that I had ever seen.
+
+With the political change in 868, which introduced the Turkish period,
+Ibn Tulun became the ruler, and another era of mosque and palace and
+hospital building prevailed. The Mosque of Ibn Tulun is the only
+monument that survives; it is also a congregational type and has the
+same general style as Amr; it is the earliest instance of the use of the
+pointed arch throughout a building, this being two centuries earlier
+than its use in England. Five rows of arches form the arcade, or
+cloisters, on the Mecca end of the building, with two rows on the other
+three sides. The ornaments on the arches and around the windows are in
+stucco, and are worked by hand in the plaster, instead of being moulded
+as is the stucco work of the Alhambra. These consist of a bud, flower,
+and rosette pattern. Another century passed on, when, in 969, the
+victorious Gauhar forced the passage of the Nile and assumed possession
+in behalf of a Fatimid caliphate (named Fatimid, for a daughter of
+Mohammed). This event presaged a religious as well as a political
+change, for the Fatimids were apostates from the true faith and
+advocated the doctrines of Shi'a, one of the tenets being that the Koran
+had been created, and another that there had been Mohammeds or inspired
+men in every century. Shi'a now became the State religion, and for two
+centuries held sway over Egypt.
+
+This period was famous for palace building, and the descriptions of the
+magnificence and luxurious furnishings read like a fairy tale. Mosque
+building was not neglected, and there are two notable examples of the
+congregational form, El Azhar and El Hakim. El Azhar was founded by
+Gauhar on April 3, 970, and in 988 it was especially devoted to the uses
+of learning. It soon became one of the chief universities of the time,
+and in 1101 there were nine thousand students and two hundred and
+thirty-nine professors. The foreign students even now pay no fee and are
+allowed rations of food, there being an endowment for this purpose. It
+is, however, still used to a certain extent as a mosque; but it does not
+now preserve the regular plan of a mosque, having been remodelled and
+added to several times. It has six minarets and a spacious court
+covering three thousand six hundred square yards, with one hundred and
+forty columns and numerous side chambers which are devoted to lectures,
+libraries, and laboratories.
+
+At the time of our visit this court was filled with individual groups of
+about thirty students, each around a professor; they were sitting
+cross-legged on the floor, and were chanting their lessons with a
+swaying motion of the body. A class of small children was of special
+interest, studying passages of the Koran from cards. The Mosque of El
+Hakim was completed in 1013, and was so resplendent throughout that it
+was known as the "Brilliant." This mosque has suffered more indignities
+than even the old Amr, but the vast, empty court, with its partly ruined
+arches, still has a certain dignity. There were originally five
+minarets.
+
+[Illustration: _The interior of the Tomb Mosque of Kalaun_]
+
+Leaving the Mosque of El Hakim on the right, we have Bab El-Futuh, the
+Gate of Capture, which is connected by the city wall with the companion
+Bab En-Nasr, or Gate of Victory. These two gates guard the strong
+northeast extremity of the old city fortifications, and in 1799 formed a
+strong position for the troops of Napoleon. With Bab Zuweyler, they are
+the most important of the sixty gates which once existed in the wall of
+Cairo. They have an inner and outer entrance and resemble a Roman
+gateway.
+
+The Fatimid rulers outvied each other in embellishing Kahira with
+artistic structures; this seems surprising because, on account of the
+charge of heresy, Kahira was cut off from the Arabian centres of art and
+learning,--from Bagdad, Damascus, and Cordova,--and of course the
+artists and students, who formerly frequented the mosques, could not do
+so when they were in the hands of heretics. This condition of affairs,
+together with other causes, produced a crisis, as will be seen.
+
+The advance of Amalric and the Crusaders, in 1168, not only resulted in
+the downfall of the Fatimids, but in the destruction of old Fustat,
+Shawar, the ruler, having issued a mandate for it to be burned in order
+to prevent the city from becoming a refuge for the Crusaders. The fire
+lasted fifty-five days, and the city in all its magnificence, having
+been the metropolis for five centuries, perished, a portion of the old
+Mosque of Amr alone remaining. Kahira then took its place as the
+official centre of Egypt.
+
+Saladin, the King of Jerusalem, now became ruler of Egypt, and he at
+once adopted strong measures to win the apostates back to the true
+faith. With a wisdom far in advance of his time, he planned to educate
+the followers of Shi'aism by the introduction of madrasah mosques and
+colleges. Heretofore we have had the Gami, or congregational mosque,
+with a severely plain exterior. The madrasah mosques of this period
+contained a smaller court, which was frequently capped with a cupola in
+the centre; the sides of the court, instead of being surrounded by
+arcades, were formed of four transepts, each spanned by a single lofty
+arch. The transept toward the east was deeper than the others, forming
+the niche for prayer; it was also furnished with the usual mihrab,
+pulpit, and tribunal. Fine facades, minarets, and domes took the place
+of the usual plain exterior; the dome was generally utilized as the
+covering of a tomb or was intended for future memorial use. The
+religious exercises (daily prayers, except on Friday, with sermons) were
+in the nature of a school training in the interest of the true
+Mohammedan faith.
+
+The exterior of the madrasah college was not unlike the mosque
+described, but the interior included facilities for theological
+lectures, together with classrooms and libraries for general study; the
+students were received on the very terms described in connection with
+the university Mosque of El Azhar. These, in general, were the means
+employed by Saladin to win all back to the true faith; in time he was
+successful, and Kahira no longer rested under the stigma of heresy.
+
+The dignity of the Fatimid age was lowered by Saladin's quartering the
+officers of his army in the magnificent palaces, while he occupied the
+house of the Viziers. Shortly every monument of the brilliant Fatimid
+period had vanished, with the exception of four mosques and the three
+gates previously alluded to. Saladin, however, inaugurated a new era of
+building, and during his nominal reign of twenty-four years three
+mosques and sixteen colleges attest his zeal to the "cause." He also
+built the citadel, and the great wall which was to enclose not only
+Kahira but the remains of the old cities. To him the present city of
+Cairo owes its form and extent.
+
+The tomb Mosque of Kalaun was built in 1279 by the ruler of that name,
+and is adjacent to the fine hospital, bearing the same name also; while
+not large, it contains exquisite examples of wood carving, marble
+mosaic, and plaster ornament worked in by hand. Seventy-seven years
+later, in 1356, we find that, in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan, the
+sculpture was in stone; hence, the material being unyielding, the
+designs are geometrical, instead of arabesque, as in the plaster. This
+is one of the most important mosques of any age, and is the most
+characteristic of the madrasah form. Seen from without, the walls appear
+even higher than the accredited one hundred and thirteen feet; they are
+built of fine cut stone, from the pyramids, and windows relieve the
+monotony of bare surface. There is a fine portal, set in an arched niche
+sixty-six feet high, which is decorated with geometrical designs and
+which has corner columns and capitals. The interior gives one an
+impression of immense size, on account of the great span of the four
+arches; the one at the east end is ninety feet high and seventy feet
+wide, and is unequalled. The mosaics and marbles, however, are less
+artistic than in the later mosques. The tomb chamber, entered from the
+east, has a finely decorated door of brass, and is encircled by a marble
+dado, twenty-five feet high, above which is a verse from the Koran
+carved in wood. In the centre of the room is the grave of the founder.
+The original dome fell in 1660, and was replaced by an inferior one;
+there were to have been four minarets, but these collapsed also. The
+court is well proportioned and contains an artistic fountain for
+ablution.
+
+[Illustration: _Fountain in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan_]
+
+We saw the bronze lantern and many of the enamelled glass lamps in the
+Arabian Museum, which forms a depository for ancient works of art; the
+mosque has suffered greatly from devastation and abuse, but it still
+retains a prestige among its class that not even time can efface. It is
+said that Sultan Hasan was so delighted with the edifice that he ordered
+the architect's hands cut off, for fear he might duplicate his
+success,--an act committed presumably on the principle that "the end
+justifies the means."
+
+The Circassian as well as the Turkish Mamelukes were great builders of
+mosques and colleges, particularly Sultan Barkuk (1382-1399) and Sultan
+Kait Bey (1468-1496). Their edifices are marvels of artistic skill, and,
+by the time of Kait Bey, perfection seemed almost to have been reached.
+This is particularly true of the tomb mosques, situated in the mausolea
+on the east side of the city, and known as the Tombs of the Khalifs.
+That of Barkuk is noticeable, on account of its two superb domes, its
+two minarets, and a carved pulpit, the latter erected by Kait Bey. The
+Mosque of Kait Bey is, however, the finest of the group; it has a lofty
+dome, adorned with bands of sculpture, minarets with galleries, and
+bronze doors. There are beautiful ivory carvings over the tomb, while
+the edifice is lighted by fifty colored glass windows. Near by, the
+smaller modern tomb mosque of the Khedive Tewfik (the father of the
+present Khedive), which is resplendent with a wealth of interior
+decorations, suffers in comparison.
+
+The defeat of the Mamelukes, and the Ottoman occupation of Kahira in
+1517, caused no cessation of mosque building; but there was a departure
+from the Saracenic models, and also a still more marked return to the
+congregational form than had been witnessed in the days of the great
+builders just noted. This is evident in the last great mosque of the
+modern period, that of Mohammed Ali (the independent monarch), begun by
+that ruler, but not completed until 1857. It is situated in the citadel
+and has an immense court, surrounded by arcades; but, unlike the
+original type, it is covered with an immense dome, producing an
+impressive effect. The exterior has also four smaller domes (one on each
+side) and two very tall minarets, with shorter ones on each corner. The
+mosque is likewise called the Alabaster Mosque, as the columns are built
+of yellow alabaster and the walls encrusted with it; its location in the
+citadel gives it a commanding position, and, being modern, it has
+escaped the ravages of time.
+
+[Illustration: _Openwork dagobas_]
+
+Only a few representative mosques have here been outlined
+architecturally (several others were visited), but an attempt has been
+made to give these their political and social significance and
+setting. Of the artistic side of the picture, it is claimed, on high
+authority, that there have been manifested, in the construction of these
+mosques, great architectural skill, perfection of ornament in wood,
+plaster, and stone, and a careful adherence to Saracenic principles.
+
+The most conspicuous point in Cairo is the citadel, erected by Saladin
+in 1166, and constituting a fitting monument of his reign. From its
+position and its fortification, it would seem almost invincible; but,
+unfortunately, the fortress is itself commanded by the higher Mokattam
+hills, as was shown in 1805, when Mohammed Ali, by means of a battery
+placed on a hill, compelled Karishid Pasha to surrender the stronghold.
+The mosque of Mohammed Ali, placed in the citadel, as already described,
+can be seen from every side, and the barracks are also a prominent
+feature; but the presence of British troops seems hardly to harmonize
+with the Oriental environment.
+
+A fine view of the city may be seen from the ramparts, but it is
+surpassed by the view to be had from the Mokattam hills; on our way
+there, some of the party took donkeys from near the citadel, but others
+(like myself) walked, if the exercise of ploughing through the deep
+furrows of sand may so be termed. A slippery climb, and all of Cairo
+with its environs lay before us--and such a view! It was in the late
+afternoon of a perfect day; the scene was, in the main, Oriental, the
+European touches being less visible from a distance. First, a confused
+stretch of domes, minarets, and roofs; then a separate mosque stood out,
+and we recognized Sultan Hasan and Ibn Tulun. Farther on were seen the
+towers above the Bab Zuweyler gate; then the Tombs of the Khalifs,
+blended together, and still farther there appeared the shadowy outlines
+of the old Mosque of Amr. At our feet stood the citadel, while the
+Alabaster Mosque and the line of arches marking the old aqueduct were
+clearly visible. The setting sun illumined the silver line of the Nile,
+touched the distant pyramids resting on the desert, and revealed the
+far-away step pyramid of Sakkara. Its glory seemed all to be gathered
+here, suffusing the whole panorama, and resting upon the scene like a
+silent benediction.
+
+The island of Rodda divides the Nile, and was formerly connected by
+bridges of boats with both the island of Gizeh and Fustat, now old
+Cairo. It was formerly a place of commercial importance, and had
+extensive dockyards; according to tradition it is a place of Biblical
+associations, since a palace occupied by Pharaoh's daughter is pointed
+out, and also the place on the river where Moses was found in the
+bulrushes.
+
+[Illustration: _Citadel and Mosque of Mahomet Ali_]
+
+The old Nilometer, for measuring the depths of the Nile, which was
+erected in 716, is of interest. It consists of a square well, sixteen
+feet in diameter, having, in the centre, an octagonal column on which
+the ancient Arabic measures are inscribed. It was last remodelled in
+1893. We visited old Cairo and the Coptic churches, six of which are
+situated in the precincts of the ancient castle of Babylon. The Copts
+are considered fine representatives of the old Egyptians, and they have
+succeeded in preserving their language and liturgy through twelve
+centuries of fierce oppression. The Fatimid period alone allowed them
+some measure of toleration; their religious forms are similar to those
+of the Greek church, but their discipline is more severe, their Lenten
+fast covering a period of fifty-five days, with abstinence from sunrise
+to sunset.
+
+The Church of St. George will illustrate the peculiar arrangement of
+their religious edifices. Following the example of the older Egyptian
+Byzantine churches, the nave and tribune are uncovered and the side
+aisles have galleries. The nave has three divisions: first, a vestibule;
+second, a section set apart for women; and third, another section for
+men. There are the usual choir, sanctuary, and side chapels, and the
+division between the choir and the sanctuary is ornamented with carvings
+in wood and ivory. The church also contains Byzantine carving and
+mosaics, and is characterized by the usual richness in decoration. A
+flight of twelve steps descends into the crypt, a small vaulted chapel
+with marble columns situated under the choir. At the end of the nave is
+an altar, around which has sprung up the tradition that the Virgin and
+Child there rested during a month's stay, after the flight to Egypt. The
+Church of St. Sergius is similar in construction, as are others of the
+group, besides hundreds more scattered through Egypt. The dust of ages
+clung to our skirts as we left the desolate scene, and there was within
+us the consciousness that, for old Cairo, there could be no
+resurrection.
+
+One of the places that might consume days in the inspection is the
+Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, which it is impossible to describe in a
+limited space. But to the student of Egyptology and to the tourist it is
+alike important, because, in its monuments of stone and bronze, it
+presents visible proofs of a wonderful past, while the sarcophagi,
+mummies, and other remains taken from the tombs, reveal the life and
+habits of the early Egyptians.
+
+With only two mornings for an inspection, we devoted one to a general
+view of the museum, and the other to the fine collection of our
+fellow-traveller, Mr. Theodore Davis, for which a special room is
+reserved. Mr. Davis courteously explained to us the different objects,
+or "finds"; these included artistic articles of household use, a fine
+group of Canopic jars, and miscellaneous pieces of unusual merit (all
+from the tombs of the Kings at Thebes); the whole exhibit showing what
+an enthusiast, with time and means, can accomplish in the interest of a
+buried past.
+
+An excursion of great meaning is that to the pyramids. Crossing the
+Nile, we followed its course to the former palace of Gizeh; then the way
+led inland, along what was formerly a fine carriage drive, but now one
+usually takes the tram to save time. Our arrival was exciting, owing to
+the number of persistent Bedouins who met us with donkeys and camels. A
+white donkey, named Snowflake, and an attendant, named Yankee Doodle,
+fell to me, while a camel, named Mary Anderson, was allotted to a
+friend. An inquiry as to why American names prevailed, revealed the fact
+that the names of the animals are adjustable, according to the
+nationality of the party to be supplied.
+
+The appearance of the pyramids is familiar the world over, but an actual
+view of these monuments of hoary age ever inspires awe and reverence. As
+we ascended the plateau (twelve hundred by sixteen hundred yards), and
+rode within the shadow of the pyramids, our feeling was deepened by the
+view of the barren waste stretched before us,--yellowish sand and piles
+of debris accentuating the solitude of the place, while the inscrutable
+Sphinx and other monuments added their silent testimony.
+
+A more extended view revealed "the river of rivers," on each bank of
+which appeared a green line of foliage; beyond this could be dimly seen
+cultivated fields with intersecting canals, while tiny villages lent the
+human touch, and far away, Cairo, with her gleaming domes and minarets,
+became an appropriate background for the scene.
+
+All the members of our party having previously visited the spot, we were
+spared the excitement of climbing the walls and entering the chambers,
+greatly to the disappointment of our guides, to whom the prospect of
+extra bakshish is always alluring. Our tour of observation consumed so
+much time that the usual programme of five o'clock tea at the Hotel Mene
+was abandoned. On our arrival in the city, the mantle of night had
+fallen,--a peaceful close to a never-to-be-forgotten day.
+
+Another afternoon's excursion was made by carriage to the old villages
+of Matariya and Heliopolis. Near the former place is an ancient gnarled
+sycamore, under which, so tradition says, the Holy Family rested in
+their flight to Egypt. The present tree was planted in 1672, but the
+credulous still believe it to be a direct descendant of the original
+one. A fine spring which flows in the vicinity is also supposed to
+have lost its natural brackish taste on account of the infant Jesus
+having been bathed in it. A half-mile farther on is Heliopolis, the old
+City of the Sun. It is now marked by the solitary obelisk, which alone
+remains to remind us of a past that stretches untold centuries back of
+the Muslim conquest of Egypt in 640; and of a city that was the exponent
+of the most ancient civilization of the world.
+
+[Illustration: _The obelisk marking the site of Heliopolis_]
+
+The obelisk is the oldest Egyptian one known; it is of red granite,
+sixty-six feet in height, although it seems lower on account of the mass
+of debris at the base, and is inscribed with hieroglyphics. There remain
+a few granite blocks of the temple, designated the House of Ra, whose
+priests were so learned as to have attracted Plato when a student, to
+have drawn Herodotus into discussion, and to have laid the foundation of
+Moses' wisdom.
+
+Heliopolis has been the scene of many stirring events, the victory of
+the Turks over the Mamelukes occurring there in 1517, while in 1800
+General Kleber successfully led the French forces against the Turks. The
+memory of the active past serves to emphasize the present solitude of
+the place.
+
+A favorite resort of the Cairo folk is the island of Gezireh; here a
+long avenue of lebbek trees furnishes a fashionable promenade, while
+games of golf, tennis, cricket, and polo, together with the races, are
+a constant source of attraction. The once famous palace of Gezireh (the
+scene of great festivities at the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869) is
+now turned into a popular hotel; its grounds slope down to the Nile,
+where dahabiyehs are sometimes anchored; an inspection of one of these,
+the _Bedouin_, excited our admiration.
+
+The time of our stay was drawing to a close, and Cairo was again to
+become "memory" with a past stretching back into centuries without
+number. Egypt has a human history that is almost appalling to the
+thoughtful mind; this limitless stretch of time may, in part, explain
+the peculiar, indefinable charm that Cairo has upon the imagination of
+the beholder, thus winning for herself the appropriate name of the
+"Mysterious City of the Nile."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PORT SAID, _November 26th_: The return to Port Said in the afternoon was
+followed by our departure on another P. & O. steamer, the _Arabia_, for
+Bombay, India.
+
+One enters the Suez Canal with peculiar sensations, as it is a waterway
+of vast importance, connecting the Mediterranean and Red Seas, and so
+narrow that the shores on both sides are distinctly visible. It extends
+from Port Said to Suez, and is nearly one hundred miles in length; it is
+artificial, with the exception of a channel through Bitter Lakes and
+Lake Tinsuh. All along the way, we were virtually traversing the desert,
+Isma'iliya presenting a small oasis, fifty miles from Port Said. From
+the deck we watched the monotonous scene, hour after hour, the landscape
+being old and colorless, with great billows of sand in the foreground,
+and here and there occasional hillocks. Once we saw mountains of sand,
+called the Gebel Abu Batah range. Sometimes a few native huts would
+appear (the mere semblance of a village), then a stray camel or two, or
+a group of natives with their pigskins, intent on securing water. The
+Great Bitter Lake is a fine body of water, and it afforded us a
+temporary relief from the monotony of the Canal. There was a short stay
+at Suez, which has all the stir of a noisy modern port. We were now for
+a time in the Gulf of Suez, but saw nothing except a yellow beach and
+low outlying mountains; we longed for even a patch of grass, but, alas!
+this was the season of drought, and vegetation was slumbering.
+
+But if Nature was dull and lifeless, there was no lack of jollity on
+board the steamer; for the passengers were mostly English, and there
+were constant games or other devices for "killing time," in which the
+English as a nation are so proficient.
+
+We sailed out of the Gulf of Suez into the Red Sea, which afforded some
+variety of scene, as there were occasional islands, that of Perim being
+the most important and a possession of Great Britain. It stands
+prominently out of the sea in its length of two miles, and seems almost
+destitute of vegetation, although there was a little settlement close to
+the shore.
+
+Thus far, contrary to all expectation, we had had comfortable weather;
+but Aden, a few hours later, gave us a heated welcome. This small city
+of Arabia is picturesquely situated on the Arabian Sea, high up on rocky
+cliffs; we had anticipated a hurried survey of the city, but the heat
+was so excessive that only a few gentlemen ventured ashore; however, we
+had a little diversion on the steamer in the interval, as numerous
+natives appeared with amber beads, ostrich feathers (which are a noted
+commodity of the place) and fans; this provoked the usual contest in
+bargains.
+
+The evening brought us compensation for a day of heat, with its
+consequent languor, in the shape of a gorgeous sunset; a huge ball of
+fire hung in the west and radiated great streaks of red, yellow, and
+blue, these fading away into the softer tints, and then came the most
+wonderful afterglow, the heavens being suffused, and the whole scene
+making one breathless, as if under a spell.
+
+[Illustration: _The Suez Canal near Port Said_]
+
+The Arabian Sea gave us an aftermath of heat, but, remembering with
+considerable satisfaction that the days of our transit were nearly
+over, we assumed an indifferent air.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BOMBAY, _December 6th_: On nearing India, with its far-away past, I was
+convinced that I would be first impressed with its Oriental aspect, but,
+on the contrary, the approach to Bombay presented a decidedly modern
+phase. There is a fine, almost semi-circular harbor, with a modern quay,
+and tall buildings encircling the shore, the tasteful Royal Bombay Yacht
+Club in the front, the spacious new Taj Mahal Hotel to the left, having
+about a block of frontage on the bay, while farther back were other tall
+buildings. Dusky faces greeted us at the landing, and a Babel of voices
+in an unknown tongue, or rather tongues, since many tribes were
+represented, each with their separate dialect.
+
+Arriving at the Taj Mahal, we felt a sense of strangeness, as the
+arrangement of rooms and the service were distinctly foreign. There were
+almost too many attendants or servants (two for each room, an upper and
+a lower one), and the waiters in the dining-room were more interesting
+to me than the menu,--the Portuguese wearing white uniforms with short
+jackets, pink vests, and black ties; the Mohammedans attired in long
+white tunics, with wide belts at the waist, loose trousers, and
+barefooted.
+
+It was reserved for an afternoon drive through the crowded native
+quarter, however, to give us a striking impression of the India of the
+past. Every nook and corner of the narrow streets seemed a blaze of
+color--women in their full skirts of many shades of red (that color
+predominating), with diverse novel waist arrangements and a profusion of
+jewelry, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and anklets. Men were in their
+many-hued turbans of various styles, with no clothing to the waist and a
+limited supply below. Then there were boys and small children,--the
+former with only a loin cloth, the latter as Nature made them, with
+silver chains bearing quite large hearts suspended around their waists,
+and with smaller chains around their necks, each supposed to ward off
+sudden calamity or disease.
+
+But, if there was color in the dress, there was emaciation in the
+figure,--thin features, thin limbs, and flat chests being the prevailing
+type, a fair indication that their scanty supply of food does not
+furnish them sufficient nutrition. Northern India is the so-termed
+"famine district," and the famine of one year is said to have destroyed
+over four millions of people; pestilence is always threatening these
+natives, and besides, the demands for tribute of an enervated priesthood
+(who "toil not," alas! "neither do they spin") have to be met. So is it
+any wonder that poverty prevails and that sadness of countenance is
+everywhere seen?
+
+[Illustration: _Aden, Arabia_]
+
+The bazars are similar in arrangement to those in Cairo; but more novel
+wares are displayed, and less bargaining is resorted to. The European
+shops were satisfactory, and we invested at once in white felt topee
+hats lined with green, and also in ecru parasols similarly lined, for
+dire tales had been told us of the penalty we should suffer if we were
+not thus equipped, on account of the great power of the sun in midday;
+often the heat was known to bring on insanity (on the authority of a
+long-time resident of India). The wearing of that topee hat was a great
+personal sacrifice, as it was horribly unbecoming, and after some weeks
+of trial one of our party was brave enough to advise a second venture; a
+Calcutta style was tried, with no better results, so you can imagine the
+joy of the final "giving up"!
+
+If the native quarters revealed to us an unknown life, so did a country
+drive, for there were trees and shrubs never before seen, and queer
+little thatched houses of the bungalow type. Groups of cocoanut and
+other palms were all lacking in freshness, as this was the dry season,
+and dust must prevail until the arrival of the "monsoon," or rainy
+season, in May. The domestic animals seemed to thrive, such as camels,
+donkeys, bullocks, and there were many birds, the little mina and the
+green paroquets being of special interest, while immense black crows
+hovered about everywhere.
+
+The European aspect of Bombay is imposing, and the public and municipal
+buildings are hardly to be surpassed, the railway station claiming the
+distinction, architecturally, of being the finest in the world. The
+dominant type of public building is designed in what is called Gothic
+Indian style.
+
+The drive along Queen's Road is a dream of beauty. The private
+residences, each with fine grounds, are many and tasteful, those along
+Queen's Road being usually occupied by the military class or by
+officials in the civil service. Malabar Hill is also a residential
+centre, and a drive there affords one an extended view of the city.
+There also one may have a glimpse of the Arabian Sea, but a much better
+view is to be had from the grounds of the Towers of Silence, that
+strange exemplification of the faith of a peculiar people.
+
+We had met a Parsee gentleman of culture and refinement on the steamer,
+_en route_ for Bombay, which fact made us eager to learn something of
+this sect. They came to India from Persia, twelve hundred years ago,
+driven away on account of Mohammedan persecution. They are strict
+followers of the tenets of Zoroaster, their creed, briefly epitomized,
+being "Good thoughts, good words, and good deeds." There are about one
+hundred thousand in Bombay; as a class they are well educated, and have
+great business capacity; hence they are prominent in commercial affairs,
+particularly in banking. They are generous and charitable, and are at
+the head of most of the philanthropic institutions of the city; many
+distinctions have been won by them from the English Government.
+
+[Illustration: _Victoria Station at Bombay_]
+
+Their strange treatment of the dead shows what a strong hold custom and
+faith can have over a people; believing that fire is a symbol of Deity,
+and also revering the earth, neither cremation nor burial of the dead is
+permitted. The Towers of Silence, five of them occupying the most
+beautiful site on Malabar Hill, and surrounded by spacious grounds with
+trees, shrubbery, and flowers, hold the Parsee dead.
+
+These towers are of whitewashed stone, two hundred and seventy-five feet
+in circumference, and twenty-five feet in height; the upper floors are
+of iron grating, with three circles, whereon the corpses are placed; the
+inner circle is for children, the next for women, and the outer one for
+men. Thus placed, the vultures, which have been hovering about awaiting
+their prey, complete the work, and soon only the skeletons remain; these
+are thrown into a circular well in the centre of the enclosure, where
+they quickly turn to dust. This well has perforated holes in the
+bottom, so that the action of the rain can carry away the dust to still
+another receptacle, which in time reaches the sea. Previous to the
+ceremony, one hundred or more mourners, robed in white, may be seen
+walking up the hill, preceded by four men, carrying the bier on their
+shoulders. They pass into the house of prayer for a time, and then
+proceed to the Towers, where they are met by the only two men (of the
+outcast class) who are ever permitted to enter, to whom the body is
+consigned for the final rite.
+
+And yet, in spite of all this gruesomeness, the Parsees are a happy,
+social people, and their entertainments, particularly their weddings,
+are described as presenting a brilliant array of bejewelled women,
+tastefully dressed in the soft tinted silks they so much affect, with
+the long graceful veils falling to the feet. This is the only head
+covering worn in a carriage or on the street. The men, however, usually
+wear the conventional European dress, but on ceremonial occasions a
+white costume is required, with a small black hat.
+
+Another sombre feature of Indian life is the prevalence of caste, which
+no foreigner can expect to understand, so complex is the system. There
+are four general classes: the Brahman, or princely caste (this has four
+subdivisions); the military caste; the commercial caste; and the
+laboring caste, commonly called "coolies." These in their turn admit
+of many subdivisions, and when we realize that caste is hereditary and
+that whatever a man's ambition he can never rise above his station, even
+though he seek to secure promotion, we may understand what a yoke it
+imposes on the people.
+
+[Illustration: _Queen's Road at Bombay_]
+
+Another bar is custom, which is quite as iron-clad as is caste; whenever
+any improvement is suggested, either in dress or in living, the
+suggestion is usually met with the reply that it is prevented by custom.
+This applies particularly to the agricultural class, among whom the
+crude ploughs and other out-of-date implements cannot be replaced by
+modern ones, as it has been the custom to use the former. Even the
+carrying of heavy burdens on the head cannot be given up; woe to any one
+who suggests substituting the carrying of a basket! A laughable incident
+is told of a European gentleman who employed a number of men to carry
+sand; thinking to lighten their labor, he purchased wheelbarrows, but on
+visiting the scene of action a week later, he found the men with the
+barrows on their heads! No doubt, the reply to his protest was, "It is
+custom."
+
+Another deplorable condition in India is found among women, particularly
+of the lower classes, as they are considered of a more inferior order
+than the men of the family and are treated with little respect, being
+virtually slaves. The higher class lead secluded lives, but do not
+escape the inflexible law that demands the marriage of a girl by the age
+of fourteen, or the ostracism thrust upon the child widow, who, on
+returning to a home of which she was once an honored member, finds
+herself virtually an outcast. Her pretty clothes are taken from her, and
+she is required to do the menial work of the family; this is the Indian
+protest against the abolishing of the suttee, or the burning of widows
+on the funeral pyre of their husbands,--cruelties prevented by English
+rule, as are also the practice of child suicide and the passing of the
+Juggernaut car over the prostrate bodies of living victims.
+
+These phases are not pleasant to contemplate, but are none the less
+necessary to know, if one is to form even a superficial idea of
+"conditions." It is gratifying to learn that still more reforms are
+advocated, and that there are to be more schools established, similar to
+the one originated by Ramabai, not far from Bombay, as a refuge for
+child widows. She received financial aid when in the United States a few
+years since. Mrs. Annie Besant has also established, at Benares, a
+school under Theosophical auspices, called Central Hindu College; this
+has for its object the combination of religious, moral, mental, and
+athletic instruction for Hindu youths.
+
+[Illustration: _Country scene in Bombay_]
+
+The European residents of Bombay lead their own lives, and the social
+usages are quite the same as in England; the usual "sports" abound
+there, such as golf, tennis, and cricket, polo, and the races, while
+yachting has great prestige under the auspices of the aristocratic yacht
+club on Apollo Bunder.
+
+The Victoria and Albert Museum has a fine building, but an unimportant
+collection; it stands in Victoria Gardens (a park of thirty-four acres,
+well laid out), and near the south entrance are the remains of the stone
+elephant which gave the island of Elephanta its name; the gardens are a
+popular resort. In another portion of the city is the best statue of
+Queen Victoria to be found in India.
+
+An unusually fine market building is surmounted by a handsome
+clock-tower. There are large, well-equipped hospitals and a college, in
+addition to the number of buildings for public uses. One frequently sees
+gayly painted mosques and temples. Among the many ruins, those of Siva,
+called the Caves of Elephanta, are of most interest.
+
+A steam launch was taken at the Apollo Bunder, and, after an hour and a
+half on the bay, we arrived at the island; the landing was not
+agreeable, and we were met with a chorus of voices from boys and men,
+crying "Memsahib" this and "Memsahib" that; some were beggars, others
+were intent on renting their "chairs" for the ascent of the hill.
+
+The caves are excavations in the solid rock from fifteen to seventeen
+feet in height; originally there had been a plan, showing the
+arrangement of columns and colonnades, but the depredations of the
+followers of Mohammed in the past are everywhere to be seen. The
+entrance to one cave, however, is well preserved, as is also a group,
+almost life size, of Siva, Vishnu, and Brahma, called the Trinity. The
+caves are said to be the home of many deadly snakes, but none appeared,
+and a death-like stillness prevailed; once in the sunshine again, we met
+a snake charmer with a lively collection of what seemed to be cobras,
+but we declined to gaze upon them.
+
+Further visits to the streets and bazars revealed new scenes, and such a
+variety of nationalities! As Sir Edwin Arnold has written: "Here are
+specimens of every race and nation of the East, Arabs from Muscat,
+Persians from the Gulf, Afghans from the northern frontier, black shaggy
+negroes from Zanzibar, islanders from the Maldives and Laccadives;
+Malays and Chinese throng and jostle with Parsees in their sloping hats,
+with Jews, Lascars, Rajputs, Fakirs, European Sepoys, and Sahibs."
+
+[Illustration: _A Tower of Silence_]
+
+My vivid impression of Bombay is a memory of the June-like temperature
+(in December), the lovely drives, and the never-ending panorama of the
+water front as seen from my hotel windows, sometimes dazzlingly bright
+in the sunlight, and again subdued, as the soft opalescent tints of the
+twilight enveloped the landscape in a shadowy haze. Before me lay ocean
+steamers, merchantmen, a man of war, yachts, and many smaller vessels,
+with rowboats of diverse pattern; to the left was the pier, while the
+English flag floated from the attractive yacht club. It was, however, a
+typical Continental view, and not an Oriental one, so sharp an impress
+has England made on a city and island which were not acquired by
+conquest (it is pleasant to note), but as the marriage portion of
+Catharine of Braganza, of Portugal, when she became the bride of King
+Charles II of England. This transference was a fortunate thing for
+Bombay, all foreign residents and tourists agree, but native
+appreciation, if there is any, seems to slumber, as is the usual rule
+where colonization exists.
+
+The equipment of a party leaving for a tour through India is important,
+for a poor guide or an indifferent travelling servant (also called
+bearer) would mar the pleasure. Bedding and towels for each member of
+the party must be looked after (mostly for night travel, as the hotels
+now usually prepare the beds), the guides must also be supplied, and one
+must be careful to have appropriate clothing for the journey. Your
+travelling servant is, according to custom, not expected to do any
+menial service (so considered), such as strapping your trunks, or
+removing your hand luggage from your room. This work is performed by
+so-called coolies; of course, a travelling servant may be so obliging as
+to offer to carry your handbag (as was often done by ours), but you must
+be duly appreciative of this show of favor.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+JEYPORE, _December 10th_: On the morning of our departure from Bombay,
+we each found a fat, brown, English "hold-all," enclosing bedding, which
+was added to our luggage, the aggregate requiring much additional space
+in our compartments. Our route to Jeypore lay through Ahmedabad, once a
+place of much importance, and still of interest on account of its
+artistic mosques. But the lack of hotel accommodations for a party
+deterred us from stopping over, and also prevented our visiting the
+celebrated Jain temples at Mount Abu, a ride of several miles to the
+mountains in a jinrikisha. I would, however, advise all tourists to take
+this trip, even at some personal discomfort, as the temples are said to
+be marvellously beautiful.
+
+[Illustration: _Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta_]
+
+The arrival at Jeypore was in the chill of late evening; as we
+approached the Hotel Kaiser-i-Hind (the best the place affords), a blaze
+of light showed us a large open veranda, furnished with chairs, sofas,
+and tables, and evidently the salon of the hotel. My room opened from
+the end of the balcony, and it was large and cheerless, so all hope of
+warmth vanished; a small, dark bathroom was at one side (with no light
+except when a door was opened), furnished with the regulation high round
+bathtub and a shaky washstand; neither of the outer doors would lock!
+The floors on opposite sides of both rooms contained ominous-looking
+square openings, suggesting the possibilities of certain reptiles which
+we had been told existed, but which we had not yet seen. After viewing
+all these "tranquillizing" influences, we retired, having first undone
+the distasteful "hold-all" for extra bedding.
+
+The next morning dawned without the door having been opened and without
+the appearance of the dreaded lizards. The veranda salon presented an
+animated appearance; several men in turbans and wearing camel's-hair
+shawls (draped around the shoulders) were sitting on the floor,
+displaying their many commodities, which included embroideries, shawls,
+garnet beads (a specialty of Jeypore), necklaces of various kinds,
+together with swords, daggers, and the like, all warranted to be
+antique. "Memsahib" was heard in every direction, for the arrival of a
+party of supposedly rich Americans had been duly heralded. Resisting
+their importunities for the time being, we entered an inner room and
+found comfort and a fairly good breakfast waiting us. Such persistency
+and eloquence, nevertheless, as were later displayed by those dealers in
+describing their wares are seldom heard! Fortunate for us that some of
+the articles were attractive enough to be purchased, stilling the clamor
+for a time! But as we had been told that this would be the usual
+programme on our arrival at any place in the Orient, the future prospect
+was not alluring.
+
+While over a quarter of India's population as well as a third of its
+area is under native rule, the "beaten track" is subject to English
+regime. Hence the visit to Jeypore, the capital of the independent
+province of Rajputana, is always regarded as a new experience. We found
+indeed a unique city, situated on a plain, hemmed in by lofty hills,
+with streets and buildings the color of old rose pink, and with broad,
+regularly laid out thoroughfares, two long straight streets intersecting
+each other at right angles near the palace, thus forming four corners.
+Here is a fountain, and the point is a centre of life and action; crowds
+of people surge back and forth, almost trodden underfoot by the
+ever-present, ponderous elephants, camels, and bullocks, drawing the
+little _ekkas_,--every one disputing the right of way. Proceed in any
+direction and more unusual street scenes present themselves along a
+single block than can elsewhere be found, and this in a city less than
+two centuries old! It is due, however, to the barbaric character of an
+environment where a gorgeous Maharaja, tigers, leopards, and elephants
+all figure in the scene, where the crowds always seem happy and life is
+one large "merry go round."
+
+[Illustration: _Street scene in Jeypore_]
+
+The Palace of the Wind is a peculiar structure; visitors are not
+admitted, and it is usually reserved for the guests of the Maharaja on
+State occasions, the ruler being very hospitable. It is said that a
+polite intimation on the part of a tourist that he desires to visit the
+interior, coupled with some slight credential, will cause one or two
+elephants and a body-guard to be placed at his disposal for the
+expedition.
+
+Not much of the "Palace of Occupation" was seen; a large audience room
+was finely proportioned, but looked uninviting, as the rugs were rolled
+up and the furniture covered. The stables adjoining were, however, of
+great interest, as three hundred horses were in the collection, some of
+them of rare value. Later, we visited the elephant stalls and the
+leopard and tiger cages. In another locality the observatory, covering a
+large open space, was filled with the quaint old devices, now obsolete,
+for studying the heavens.
+
+The long streets are lined with bazars of the usual plan but much
+larger; workers in brass predominated, that being a specialty of
+Jeypore. There is a flourishing Art School where old forms of vases,
+lamps, and boxes are reproduced, the original designs being loaned from
+the Victoria and Albert Memorial Museum, which occupies an artistic
+building in the centre of spacious grounds. There one may find a rare
+collection of old brass, gold and silver enamel, wood carving, weaving
+and embroidery, all classified and arranged in historical order.
+
+A native school, or college, greatly interested us; there were groups of
+boys in a number of rooms, all belonging to the best Rajput families.
+There are special rooms devoted to Sanskrit, English (here the boys
+recited a poem in unison), history, logic, philosophy, and the natural
+sciences.
+
+There were a number of unpretentious Hindu temples, and the Maharaja is
+said to be quite punctilious in his observance of religious forms. He
+was absent from the city, but several brothers of his were seen driving,
+clad in long garments of gaudy-colored striped calico, and wearing small
+turbans; the dress of the women was also peculiar, the skirt being so
+full that as they walked they resembled balloons; they are noted for
+wearing a profusion of jewelry,--necklaces by the half-dozen, bracelets
+sometimes nearly to the elbow, anklets, heavy earrings, nose-rings,
+and finger-rings without number.
+
+[Illustration: _A Hindu woman of Jeypore_]
+
+Animals and birds in large quantities added motion and color to the
+street scenes, together with brightly caparisoned elephants, stately
+camels, and white bullocks with their long horns and dreamy eyes,
+drawing the little two-wheeled _ekka_, which sometimes carried four
+occupants. Peacocks flashed in and out at every turn (they are
+considered a sacred bird and are therefore protected), while
+blue-breasted pigeons came in clouds whenever there was a prospect of a
+feast.
+
+There are processions of various kinds, the highest function of all
+being a wedding procession, where the brilliancy varies according to the
+amount of means that can be expended by the prospective bridegroom. In
+one afternoon we witnessed eight of these spectacles; the first was
+given by a man of wealth who was seated on an elephant, the palanquin of
+which was gorgeous in its decoration; he himself was richly dressed, as
+were the attendant friends. The procession was preceded by a band of
+music, and in the group were six nautch, or dancing girls; at intervals
+of about two blocks, the cavalcade stopped, matting was thrown down, and
+the dancers came and executed a slow-measured dance, which continued for
+about five minutes; then the procession moved on to the next point,
+this programme continuing until the home of the bride was reached. All
+of this we witnessed. The other seven wedding processions presented
+variations; in one the principal actor was a boy of about fourteen who
+looked terrified; two of the processions consisted of poor men;
+sometimes carriages were substituted for the elephants, and the
+dancing-girls were omitted, but there were always music and a crowd.
+
+Elephants figured prominently in our trip to the old city of Amber, five
+miles distant, and the former capital of Rajputana. We left our carriage
+some distance away and were conveyed the remainder of the journey by two
+elephants, named Munsie and Bunsie, with gayly painted faces and trunks,
+furnished through the courtesy of the Maharaja. In this fashion we made
+our entrance.
+
+The old city of Amber is situated below the palace, which is on the side
+of a mountain, with a long-stretching fort back of it; the situation,
+together with the gray walls of the palace and the fort, all makes a
+striking picture, reminding one of mediaeval times; the palace is well
+preserved, many of the rooms are artistic, and the fine public audience
+chamber particularly impressed us. Here large gatherings are held in
+connection with ceremonial occasions at Jeypore; the Prince of Wales
+had been entertained here two years previous, at which time the city
+of Jeypore was made resplendent with a fresh coat of the rose pink
+preparation.
+
+[Illustration: _Interior view of Amber Palace_]
+
+Near the entrance to the Amber Palace was an exquisite little Hindu
+temple, dedicated to the terrible goddess, Kali, who delights in
+sacrifice; this was presided over by a revolting-looking priest, and
+there were evident traces of the daily morning sacrifice of a goat. Once
+a year one hundred goats are offered up, together with other animals;
+formerly human beings were sacrificed to appease the goddess, but this
+slaughter is now prohibited by law. In a well-kept garden back of the
+palace there is a fine collection of tropical fruits and of unfamiliar
+shrubs. This ruined city of Amber must have presented a wonderful
+spectacle two centuries ago, before the pageants and old-time customs
+were transferred to its modern prototype, Jeypore.
+
+Another afternoon's experience in Jeypore seemed even more like a scene
+from a comic opera,--only the curtain is never lowered in this most
+spectacular city in India, if not in the entire world.
+
+The pleasure of our stay in Jeypore was greatly enhanced by the
+intelligence of the local guide, who was of the Brahman class and
+broadly educated; he had an enlarged idea of the benefit to be derived
+from a sojourn in the New World, but he seemed uncertain with regard to
+securing a position in New York. One of the gentlemen suggested that he
+might at first seek employment as a butler, but his reply was that it
+would be impossible for him to engage in any menial work on account of
+his caste; this is a mild illustration of the domination of social
+lines.
+
+A little wave of excitement was created on the morning of December 12th
+by a slight earthquake; we were still further shaken up by the constant
+presence of the persistent venders whenever we were at the hotel, who
+even followed us to the station the hour of our departure for Delhi,
+when articles were purchased by us at half their original price.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DELHI, _December 13th_: A greater contrast can hardly be imagined than
+that between barbaric, pleasure-loving Jeypore, and Delhi, a city full
+of old-time associations, whose triumphs of architectural skill and
+sculptured devices have won for it the admiration of the world.
+
+The fort and palace, together with the adjacent mosque, called Jumma
+Musjid, are the chief centres of interest and the points we first
+visited. The two places suffered greatly during the mutiny of 1857, and
+the old Mogul capital has passed through so many vicissitudes that a
+little historical setting seems necessary.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Amber Palace and fort near Jeypore_]
+
+Of the city's early history very little is known before the Mohammedan
+conquest, in 1193 A.D. There are, however, the ruins of two Hindu forts
+of the eleventh century in old Delhi (covering many miles south of
+Delhi), as well as the famous iron pillar of Kutub Minar, to be alluded
+to later. Delhi was not favored by the greatest of Mogul rulers, King
+Akbar, or by his son, King Jahangir; however, his grandson, Shah Jahan,
+built the fort in 1638, and later the palace and great mosque--hence the
+name, Shah Jahanabad, and in his connection with the Taj Mahal and
+palace at Agra, he won the title of the "Great Builder"; he also
+transferred the capital from Agra to Delhi.
+
+A century later, the city was sacked by Nadir Shah, of Persia, and a
+general massacre occurred. Although finally defeated, he took with him
+many treasures, among them the priceless Peacock Throne and the valuable
+Kohinur diamond; the latter is now in the possession of King Edward of
+England.
+
+Other changes followed, until, in 1804, British occupation was effected;
+but even then the descendants of the Mogul monarchs were allowed some
+show of royalty, until after the King's treachery and deposition at the
+time of the mutiny of 1857. This must be briefly alluded to, as it is
+truly said, "Delhi is steeped in mutiny memories!"
+
+Various causes have been assigned for this great mutiny of the Bengal
+troops, but it was probably due in part to a season of unrest, some
+minor event precipitating the crisis. The revolt occurred on May 10th,
+at Meerut, forty miles distant; at first there were but twenty-five
+hundred men, then other regiments joined them, and, on their arrival in
+Delhi, they attacked the civil offices, and the inmates were compelled
+to flee to the fort, where they were murdered.
+
+The Fifty-fourth Regiment marched to the relief, but most of the
+officers were shot, and the native soldiers refused to act,--a precedent
+followed by the natives of other regiments; thus the rebels were largely
+reinforced, and they soon had complete possession of the fort, which was
+then well garrisoned by native officers who were thoroughly trained in
+English tactics. The mutiny was now complete, and English rule for the
+time being ceased; disturbances also spread to Agra, Cawnpore, and
+Lucknow, so the army was necessarily divided; however, the bravery of
+the British forces at Delhi was such that by May 20th the fort and
+palace had been regained. The King was captured before Humayun's tomb
+(outside the city), and, the King's sons surrendering, they were shot in
+front of the Delhi gate of the fort. The victory, nevertheless, was only
+won through the sacrifice of many lives, the loss of officers being
+particularly heavy; the city also suffered greatly from the siege, and
+the beauty of the fort and palace was much impaired.
+
+[Illustration: _A gateway built during the seventeenth century in
+Delhi_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Pearl Mosque at Delhi_]
+
+There are two fine gates to the fort,--the Lahore on the west side, and
+the Delhi on the south side,--both built by Shah Jahan, between 1638 and
+1648. The fort is encircled by a massive red sandstone wall; we passed
+through the grand archway of the Lahore gate, into a vaulted arcade
+which Mr. Ferguson (the famous authority on architecture) considers the
+noblest entrance known to any palace. The arcade ends in the centre of
+the outer main court, measuring five hundred and forty by three hundred
+and sixty feet; the inner court is somewhat larger and is surrounded by
+cloisters or galleries. On the farther side of this inner court is the
+fine Hall of Public Audience, Diwan-i-Am, one hundred by sixty feet,
+where the proportions and the arrangement of columns and arches are
+perfect. At one end of this hall is a raised recess in which the Emperor
+used to be seated on the famous Peacock Throne, which Nadir Shah carried
+to Persia; before the throne, and lower, was the seat occupied by the
+prime minister, while above it were placed the inlaid panels by Austin
+of Bordeaux.
+
+The hall was restored under the direction of the late viceroy, Lord
+Curzon, and we saw Florentine artists renewing the inlaid work in the
+panels. The remarkable throne was six feet long and four feet wide; it
+stood on six massive feet, which, with the body of the chair, were of
+solid gold, inlaid with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. The throne took
+its name from having the figures of two peacocks standing behind it,
+their tails extended, and the whole so inlaid with sapphires, rubies,
+pearls, emeralds, and diamonds as to be lifelike in its color. All this
+was surmounted by a canopy of gold, and supported by twelve pillars,
+richly emblazoned with gems, while a fringe of pearls ornamented the
+edge of the canopy. There were still more costly adjuncts, but these
+details must suffice; it is needless to add that the loss of the throne
+was considered a national calamity.
+
+A gate on one side of this hall led to the inner court of the palace,
+and to the Hall of Private Audience, or Diwan-i-Khas, which is among the
+most graceful assembly rooms in the world. It is ninety by sixty-seven
+feet, and is built entirely of white marble, inlaid with precious
+stones; at either end of the hall is the famous Persian inscription:
+
+  "If heaven can be on the face of the earth,
+  It is this, oh! it is this, oh! it is this!"
+
+Not far removed from here are the royal apartments, consisting of three
+suites of rooms, with an octagonal tower projecting over the river
+Jumna. These rooms are all finely decorated. Beyond them are the Rang
+Mahal, or Painted Palace,--the residence of the chief Sultana,--and the
+royal baths, consisting of three large rooms fitted in white marble,
+elaborately inlaid. Opposite to this is the Moti Musjid, or Pearl
+Mosque.
+
+[Illustration: _The Hall of Private Audience in the Palace, Delhi_]
+
+[Illustration: _Jumma Musjid, Delhi_]
+
+There are more buildings that could be described, but some were injured
+at the time of the mutiny, and others have since been removed,
+presumably in the interest of modern requirements.
+
+We made our exit through the Delhi gate; between the inner and outer
+arches stand the Chettar elephants which were replaced by order of Lord
+Curzon. The Jumma Musjid is raised on a lofty basement; it has three
+gateways, four corner towers, two lofty minarets, and three domes. We
+ascended one of the towers and had an extended view; inside there is a
+spacious quadrangle, three hundred and twenty-five feet square, in the
+centre of which is a fountain for ablution; and on three sides there
+are sandstone cloisters. An immense concourse of people assemble here
+for prayer every Friday; the mosque in arrangement is very similar to
+the congregational mosques of Cairo.
+
+The Kalun Musjid, usually called Black Mosque, dates from 1386. It is of
+peculiar construction, having two stories, and is somewhat Egyptian in
+appearance. A Jain temple was so hemmed in by streets that its
+appearance was much impaired, but the interior was beautiful in design
+and finish.
+
+The street known as Chandni Chauk fully sustained its reputation as a
+shopping centre; it is over a mile in length and is always a scene of
+sparkle and commotion; on it were the usual bazars, but also many larger
+stores, as Delhi is considered the finest shopping point in India,
+particularly in precious stones,--jewelry being the commodity most
+heralded, as we learned to our sorrow.
+
+On arriving at Maiden's Hotel (under English management, but
+semi-Oriental in its arrangement), we complacently viewed our rooms on
+the second floor, opening upon a gallery and overlooking a large court.
+Here at last, so we thought, was a haven of refuge from jewelry
+intruders, but, alas! we were no sooner located than they appeared,--not
+the impecunious class, but dealers with shops and a bank
+account,--bringing with them a vast array of really beautiful gems,
+which were tempting but high-priced. To say that, on an average, three
+of these men knocked at our door during the morning bath, while as many
+were waiting for us at the luncheon hour, literally camping out on the
+balcony during the evening hours, is no exaggeration. Then the cards
+they presented, the insinuations they indulged in with regard to the
+other man's goods (who was waiting outside)! It really was amusing, but
+it grew tiresome, and was demoralizing, because one was compelled to
+"bargain" if anything was purchased at all, the first scale of prices
+being purposely exorbitant.
+
+A day's visit to old Delhi was most interesting; it is a ride of eleven
+miles to Kutub Minar, through sand and debris, comprising a portion of
+an area of forty-seven miles, covered with the remains of seven, once
+prosperous, cities. Several of the ruins were of interest, and they had
+a history, but I will describe only the well-preserved mausoleum of
+Emperor Humayun, which gains in importance from having been the model of
+the Taj Mahal at Agra. It stands on a lofty platform of red sandstone,
+and consists of a large central octagon, surmounted by a dome with
+octagon towers at the angles; the red sandstone exterior is artistically
+picked out in relief with white marble. The windows are recessed, and
+the lower doors are filled with beautiful lattices of stone and marble.
+In the centre of each side of the main octagon is a porch, forty feet
+high, with a pronounced pointed arch. The cenotaph of the Emperor is of
+white marble, without any inscription; his wife and several other
+persons, including two later Emperors, are buried here also. As was
+quite the custom of the time, the tomb is surrounded by a garden of
+thirteen acres. Farther on, was the Tomb of a Saint, a perfect gem! It
+is built of white marble, is eighteen feet square, and is surrounded by
+a broad veranda. Around the covered grave there is a low marble rail,
+and over it a beautiful canopy, inlaid with mother-of-pearl; in the
+walls are finely pierced screens. Near this tomb is a handsome red
+sandstone mosque, called Jumat Khana, and in the vicinity are a number
+of other important tombs of artistic design, two having elaborately
+carved marble doors, the design being like lacework.
+
+The culmination of the morning's trip was at the Kutub Minar enclosure;
+the magnificent ruined Mosque of Kuwat-ul-Islam occupies a large portion
+of the space, and dates from the latter part of the twelfth century. The
+main entrance was through an arched doorway, the courtyard was
+surrounded by cloisters formed of pillars purloined from Jain temples
+and piled one upon another. Most of them are richly ornamented, although
+many have been defaced.
+
+[Illustration: _The tomb of Emperor Humayun_]
+
+The famous Hindu Iron Pillar stands in front of the ruin; it is one of
+the most unique antiquities in India, and is a solid shaft of wrought
+iron, twenty-three feet, eight inches high and sixteen inches in
+diameter; it has a deeply cut Sanskrit inscription, and is so individual
+in its character as to prove a distinct reminder of a decayed past.
+
+The most prominent feature of the landscape is Kutub Minar, rightly
+named the Tower of Victory. Some have thought it of Hindu origin, but
+the now accepted opinion is that it was built by the Moguls, after the
+conquest. It is two hundred and thirty-eight feet high, and has five
+stories with balconies, each story being decorated with bands of
+inscriptions. The first three stories are of red sandstone and are
+fluted; the two upper stories are of white marble and have been
+restored. The diameter of the first story is forty-seven feet, three
+inches; that of the upper story, nine feet; three hundred and
+seventy-nine steps lead to the summit, and ninety-five steps lead to the
+first gallery, from both points of which we obtained a fine view of
+ruins in every direction.
+
+Tughlakabad lies five miles east of Kutub Minar; the fort is so high and
+massive as to be seen long before the point is reached. The enclosure
+covers nearly four miles and contains a ruined mosque and palace.
+Outside the wall is the tomb of Tujlak Shah; it is situated in an
+artificial lake, and is connected with the fort by a causeway, six
+hundred feet long and supported on twenty-seven arches.
+
+Of this tomb Mr. Ferguson says: "The sloping walls and almost Egyptian
+solidity of this mausoleum, combined with the bold and massive towers of
+the fortifications that surround it, form a picture of a warrior's tomb
+unrivalled anywhere."
+
+The day's experience included luncheon at a "rest house" near Kutub
+Minar; this term applies to a simple semi-hotel, provided by the
+Government for the convenience of members of the military and civil
+service and their families; it is situated in places where there are no
+hotel facilities, and, when unoccupied, the public may share in the
+convenience.
+
+The long, intensely dusty ride to Delhi,[2] past ruin after ruin, gave
+us leisure to reflect on the ravages of time and the mutability of all
+earthly things.
+
+[Illustration: _Northern colonnade of the Islam mosque, showing ruined
+arch_]
+
+Another afternoon drive about Delhi revealed new points of interest,
+including some which are associated with the mutiny, such as the Ridge
+where the British troops were stationed and from which a fine view is
+afforded; Flagstaff Tower, where the women and children were assembled
+on May 11, 1857; and the very inadequate Mutiny Memorial Monument,
+erected to commemorate the heroic deeds of the officers and soldiers who
+fell during the summer of 1857.
+
+But the scene that will linger longest in my memory is the panorama of
+the massive walls, towers, gateways, and the half-ruined palace. Then,
+one can hardly forget the Pearl Mosque, which is of such rare beauty as
+to prove a fitting memorial to the "Great Builder," Shah Jahan; the
+latter has a prototype in modern times,--none other than Ludwig II of
+Bavaria, whose palaces also linger in the memory as a dream of beauty.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+AGRA, _December 18th_: No one can visit Delhi and Agra without being
+impressed by the rulers of the golden period of the Mogul Empire, the
+great Akbar standing forth prominently as a wise potentate and the
+strongest personality in Indian history, certainly in Central India. His
+son, Jahangir, was not his equal, but his mantle of power seems to have
+descended to his grandson, Shah Jahan, who, like him, was famed in the
+matter of building, as we have seen at Delhi, and furthermore were to
+see at Agra, our next point of observation. We arrived on the afternoon
+of December 18th and proceeded to the Hotel Metropole.
+
+As the train approached the city, we caught a glimpse of that
+incomparable creation, the Taj Mahal, and were immediately under its
+spell, so we at once took carriages and were conveyed there. As we drew
+near, the massive, finely proportioned gateway burst upon us. The
+entrance is of red sandstone, with Moorish arches and pavilions, while a
+wall of masonry, with turreted corners, encircles the grounds. At the
+centre of the two adjacent sides are gateways of similar construction to
+the entrance. One is, however, unprepared for the white-domed vision
+beyond, which at once inspired admiration and awe. The first view was at
+sunset, and the atmosphere was filled with a golden haze that rested
+lovingly on the graceful turrets and dome. We lingered on to catch the
+moonlight effect, and as the twilight faded and the outlines became
+shadowy, there was a peculiar illusion, which was heightened by the
+first glimmering silvery light, soon to be succeeded by a full radiance
+which illumined the white marble pile and the whole environment. We sat
+spellbound amidst the loveliness of the scene; no one spoke, and this
+silent tribute of respect was shared by other "lookers on."
+
+[Illustration: _Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi_]
+
+Our last visit was in the full effulgence of the morning, when we were
+able to obtain new points of view, and to visit the adjacent red
+sandstone mosque, as well as the corresponding opposite edifice (which
+is an audience room). Some of the party crossed the river Jumna, which
+runs back of the grounds, so as to see the reflection of the Taj in the
+water. No words of mine can fitly describe the impression, but figures
+sometimes aid the imagination. The foundation is three hundred and
+thirteen feet square and eighteen feet in height, and the edifice itself
+is one hundred and eighty-six feet square, with a dome rising to the
+height of two hundred and twenty feet. At each corner of the foundation
+stands a tall, graceful minaret, one hundred and thirty-seven feet in
+height. Add to this the statement that it took twenty thousand men
+seventeen years to complete the work, at a cost variously estimated at
+from $17,000,000 to $20,000,000, and you may form an idea of the
+delicate workmanship and artistic skill which the Taj represents. But
+simplicity is, after all, the keynote, and there is also a rare
+personality in its outlines reflecting feminine grace. This is
+distinctly felt when viewing the cenotaph (the real tomb is in a crypt
+below), which is, like the entire edifice, built of the whitest of
+marble and decorated with rare, beautiful designs, while the screen
+which encloses the cenotaph of the Queen is also of marble, carved in a
+lacework design of exquisite beauty.
+
+The diamonds, pearls, rubies, and other precious stones which once
+embellished this and every other part of the edifice, were taken away by
+ruthless invaders of India; and their places filled by colored stones
+with little loss of effect. Shah Jahan's cenotaph lies unenclosed at the
+left, showing that it was not included in the original plan. Indeed, it
+had been the intention of Shah Jahan to build for himself a mausoleum,
+of corresponding style, yet of dark marble, across the river Jumna; the
+shadow which rested on his later life prevented the idea from being
+carried out. But the creation of this tribute to all womanhood typified
+in his beloved wife is a monument which time cannot efface. Arjamand
+Banu Begum was a Persian princess of rare beauty and of great personal
+charm. She died in giving birth to her eighth child, and through all the
+years had held the supreme place in Shah Jahan's life; despite the
+Oriental custom of having other wives, she had won for herself the title
+of Mumtaz-i-Mahal, "The exalted of the Palace." Hence the Eastern habit
+of placing a mausoleum in a garden was peculiarly fitting for so
+peerless a queen; in this instance it forms a perfect setting for the
+Taj.
+
+[Illustration: _Gateway leading to Taj Mahal_]
+
+[Illustration: _Taj Mahal_]
+
+[Illustration: _Screen in Taj Mahal_]
+
+[Illustration: _Shah Jahan and his wife in whose memory the Taj was
+built_]
+
+The garden was redeemed from a hopeless tangle (into which it had
+fallen), under the direction of Lord Curzon, who did so much to stay
+ruin and devastation. It is laid out in a conventional style, one square
+being devoted to roses, another to poinsettia, while long stretches of
+foliage plants here and there, with a mass of dark green cypress trees,
+give it a breadth of view that is enhanced by a marble avenue, leading
+from the entrance to the tombs, the sweep of avenue being broken midway
+by a marble seat from which a fine view of the Taj is afforded. Running
+parallel were marble aqueducts which contained, at set intervals,
+playing fountains; these were inactive, however, at the time of our
+visits. One could return to the Taj day after day, as the subtle
+influence of its beauty and its spiritual significance are ever present.
+Sad indeed was the fate of the builder, Shah Jahan, who ruled from 1620
+to 1658 and who was then deposed by his son, Aurangzeb. The latter
+transferred the capital to Delhi, causing his father to languish seven
+long years in a small suite of rooms in the palace at Agra as a
+prisoner, his only companion a devoted daughter.
+
+While the centre of attraction in Agra is the Taj Mahal, the fort,
+palace, and Moti Musjid (Pearl Mosque) are of equal interest. Here we
+see the impress of three rulers, Akbar (the grandson of the noted Mogul
+king, Baber, and son of Humayun, both of whom lived at Agra), Jahangir,
+his son, and Shah Jahan, his grandson.
+
+Akbar removed to Agra, from the old capital Fatehpur-Sikri, about 1568,
+but the only monuments that are now attributed to him are the massive
+walls of the fort and the red palace. Jahangir built the palace which
+bears his name, but as it is somewhat gloomy in appearance, his chief
+claims to distinction as a builder are the tombs of Itimid-ud-Daulah and
+Akbar's tomb at Sikandra. Shah Jahan built the palace which contains the
+beautiful Diwan-i-Am, or Hall of Public Audience; the Diwan-i-Khas, or
+Hall of Private Audience; the Shish Mahal, or Mirror Palace; the
+Saman-Burj, known as the Octagon, or Jasmine Tower; the Mina Musjid, or
+Gem Palace (the private mosque of the Emperor); with many other notable
+edifices. The Moti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque, is furnished with a superb
+exterior setting.
+
+Having described similar halls in the palace at Delhi, I will only
+briefly enumerate some distinguishing features of each of the buildings
+just mentioned. All were either injured or defaced in the mutiny
+conflict of 1857, which raged in Agra from May 10th to October 10th, six
+thousand women and children, with a few men, having found a refuge there
+during the siege. A feature of the Public Audience Room is a grille in
+the back wall, through which the Sultanas or members of the Zenana could
+watch the proceedings below; and in the centre of the hall is a
+raised alcove of white marble, richly decorated in low relief.
+
+[Illustration: _Agra Palace and part of wall and gateway to the fort_]
+
+[Illustration: _An Octagon Tower of the Agra Palace_]
+
+The Hall of Private Audience consists of an open colonnade in front of
+an enclosed room at the back. The illustration shows the front
+overlooking the court, while beyond is the Octagon Tower, the residence
+of the chief Sultana. In the court a portion of the marble pavement is
+made to represent a pachisi or chess board, and it is said the game was
+played with slave girls, who were used instead of the customary
+chessmen. The Octagon Tower is built out over the river Jumna, as will
+be seen in a later picture.
+
+The portion known as the Mirror Palace is unique, as it consists of two
+dark rooms furnished with fountains and an artificial cascade arranged
+to fall over lighted lamps. The walls and ceilings are decorated with
+innumerable small mirrors which were restored in 1875. The palace
+measures seventy by forty feet, and is built at the east end of a garden
+two hundred and fifty feet square, planted with flowers and shrubs.
+Underneath the structure are subterranean apartments for use during the
+summer heat, and from here passages lead to still cooler rooms in
+another portion of the fort.
+
+In the southeast corner of this Anguri Bagh, or garden, are three finely
+decorated rooms which were once the private apartments of Shah Jahan.
+The Jahangir Mahal, or palace, is noticeable on account of the bright
+red tiles used in the upper portion. It also has a fine domed hall which
+leads into a large central court.
+
+But the crowning single feature in this fort (which is over a mile in
+extent) is the Moti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque. Mr. Ferguson considers it
+to be "one of the purest and most elegant buildings of its class to be
+found in the world." It ranks next to the Taj Mahal among Shah Jahan's
+creations. The entrance gateway is of red sandstone and is approached by
+a lofty double staircase. The exterior is faced with slabs of red
+sandstone, but the interior is built of marble, white, blue, and gray
+veined. The courtyard of the mosque is deservedly celebrated. In the
+centre is a marble tank for ablutions, and a marble cloister runs around
+three of its sides. A flight of steps leads to the roof of the mosque,
+from which a fine view is obtained.[3]
+
+[Illustration: _The Pearl Mosque_]
+
+[Illustration: _Akbar's tomb in Sikandra_]
+
+A pleasant excursion across the river led us to the tasteful tomb of
+Itimid-ud-Daulah. The entrance gate is fine, and the approach through
+spacious, well-kept grounds gives one a wide perspective. The facade is
+of marble with considerable inlaid work. Itimid-ud-Daulah was a Persian
+High Treasurer, and the grandfather of the Lady of the Taj. The tomb was
+built by Shah Jahangir, as was that of King Akbar at Sikandra, five
+miles distant from Agra and a delightful excursion to make. It has an
+imposing gateway and is situated in the midst of a veritable park. It is
+of red sandstone, inlaid with white marble, and is a pyramidal building,
+four stories high, the first three being of red sandstone and the fourth
+of marble. The base measures three hundred and twenty feet, and the
+fourth story one hundred and fifty-seven feet (narrow stairways leading
+upward), which indicates a gradual decrease and tapering in size. A
+massive cloister runs around the lower story, and the fourth story is
+occupied by the marble cenotaph of Akbar, directly over the crypt which
+contains his tomb. The cenotaph is engraved with ninety-nine names of
+the deity. This story is surrounded by a white marble cloister, and on
+the outer side of each arch is an oval-shaped recess, filled with
+delicate lacework carving of varied patterns in marble. The effect is
+unlike anything elsewhere seen. There are several other historic tombs
+in the vicinity, and many points of interest all the way to Akbar's old
+capital, Fatehpur-Sikri. This is twenty-two miles distant, a day's
+excursion, and easily reached in automobiles; although it took some
+faith to trust one's self to the rather indifferent chauffeurs.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FATEHPUR-SIKRI: This royal but long-destroyed city is sacred to the
+memory of the Emperor Akbar, who built a gorgeous structure and selected
+the site through the advice of the renowned Saint Selim Chisti. He
+eventually abandoned it on account of its unhealthy location, and
+transferred the capital to Agra, where, as we have seen, he built a fort
+and the red palace. There is an unusually imposing gateway on one side
+of Fatehpur-Sikri, leading up to the mosque, but we made our entrance
+from the adjacent side; hence our first view was like that in the
+illustration. A large, five-story building to the left served as a
+recreation place for the ladies of the court, while back and to the left
+of this was seen the beautiful dome of the mosque, said to be almost a
+counterpart of the one at Mecca. So many and varied are the buildings in
+this fort that it is inexpedient to do more than allude briefly to them.
+
+The three palaces of the Sultanas are notable for their beauty, variety,
+and wealth of ornament, the Sultanas being Miriam, the Portuguese
+Christian; Rakinah, Akbar's cousin; and the Turkish Sultana. The Emperor
+also has a suite of several rooms. The palace of Birbal, Akbar's prime
+minister, is, architecturally, the most perfect of any in the enclosure
+and was built for his daughter. The rooms allotted to the Zenana are
+spacious. Near the recreation building is the famous pachisi or chess
+board, similar to the one at Agra, where Akbar and his vizier, sitting
+opposite, marshalled the slave girls to and fro.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Fatehpur-Sikri_]
+
+The plan of the mosque is unusual in its construction, and so is the
+massive gateway. Passing through the latter, an exquisite monument
+presents itself in the tomb of Selim Chisti, the venerable hermit saint,
+who lived a retired existence in a cave and yet who was the controlling
+force in Akbar's life. The place is simple, and displays such delicacy
+of skill in its composition as to excite admiration. It is surrounded by
+a beautiful white marble lattice-work screen, ornamented with brass, and
+the canopy over the tomb of the saint is inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
+The photograph is very effective, but, like many others, it has to be
+omitted (I have five hundred scenes of the tour). The public audience
+room is encompassed by cloisters. There is a treasury, a mint, a record
+office, and a building with three large rooms known as the Minchauli
+Anch, which is said to be the place where the Emperor played
+hide-and-seek with the ladies of the court; this is probably an
+erroneous statement.
+
+The most unusual building is the Diwan-i-Khas, the council chamber. From
+the outside it seems to be two stories high, yet there is really but one
+story with a large central pillar which is surrounded by an immense
+circular capital. From this radiates four stone causeways to the
+corners of the room; these are enclosed by an open trellis with stone
+balustrades. The shaft of the pillar is finely carved, and all is in
+perfect condition, due to careful restoration. It is said that the
+Emperor sat in the centre of the pillar when he held a council, while
+the four advisers sat in the corners. Stone staircases lead to the roof,
+where a glimpse of the whole enclosure is afforded. A novel view is
+obtained down a stone-paved roadway, leading to a large court, at the
+north end of which is the deer minaret, or circular tower, seventy feet
+high, decorated with protruding elephants' tusks in stone. From the
+lanterns at the top, the Emperor is said to have shot antelopes drawn
+under the column by beaters employed for that special purpose.
+
+Reading between the lines, one learns that Akbar was a very peculiar
+character, domineering and despotic, yet generous to the immediate
+members of his household and to his favorite courtiers,--he was very
+cruel, however, when they displeased him; very broad in his religious
+views; and although a devoted Mohammedan, he was tolerant of all
+religions, and there are accounts of religious discussions taking place,
+in which every shade of belief was represented. He decreed that his
+daughters should all marry Hindu princes.
+
+[Illustration: _A column in the Audience Hall (Diwan-i-Khas)_]
+
+Our guide told us that formerly there were underground passages and
+apartments, but he did not state, as did another guide to a party of
+tourists at Agra, that these apartments were for the disciplining and
+torturing of the members of the Zenana and even of his wives. Taking
+into consideration the attention he gave to the comfort and pleasure of
+the ladies of the court, as seen in the palaces and the large recreation
+building extant, this statement appears inconsistent, and so it is
+necessary to give him the benefit of the doubt. The "auto" ride back to
+Agra was accomplished without any broken limbs, and another red-letter
+day was ended.
+
+Before leaving Agra one should either visit the Taj Mahal for a final
+look, or, from the Jasmine Tower of the palace, gaze through the
+intervening two miles of space to catch its shadowy outline as seen by
+Shah Jahan during those seven solitary years of vigil. I chose the
+latter method for convenience' sake, after visiting the bazars, and in
+consequence was rewarded with a never-to-be-forgotten view.
+
+Delhi and Agra are indissolubly connected by their rulers and by
+historical events; in leaving them one feels as if never again would so
+much of unique interest be presented in the line of architectural skill
+and poetic sentiment.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CAWNPORE, _December 24th_: We took a night train from Agra to Cawnpore,
+arriving there early on the morning of December 24th and stopping over
+a few hours to break the journey. Cawnpore is full of mutiny memories,
+and we visited some of the historic points, going first to the Ghat
+(steps) where cruel Nana Sahib burned, or murdered, a boatload of
+Englishmen; also to other scenes of horror. Then we went to the memorial
+well, and to the memorial church with its peaceful interior, which was
+being decorated with greens in true English fashion, for the service of
+the morrow, when "Peace and good will to men" would ring out, and for
+the time being mutiny memories would be forgotten. We drove to the park,
+where, as an accessory to a certain artistic building, there is to be
+seen an exquisite angel of carved marble, a memorial erected by the
+Government. Next, we visited some bazars of no special interest.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+LUCKNOW, _December 24th_: After luncheon, we took the train for Lucknow.
+On the way, Murray's "Lucknow" was re-read, and another mutiny chapter
+added. Lucknow is the capital of the province of Oudh. In 1813 the
+English conferred the title of king on the ruler, but, for reasons of
+distrust, withdrew it in 1856, and at the same time discharged eighty
+thousand high-caste soldiers,--an action which produced instant
+dissatisfaction and was one of the direct causes for the mutiny. We
+arrived at Wutzler's Royal Hotel in the late afternoon, and felt
+gladdened by the comfort and good cheer that awaited us,--a hopeful sign
+inasmuch as the morrow was Christmas Day. A drive to Wingfield Park and
+a visit to an exquisite tomb mosque ended the sight-seeing day.
+
+[Illustration: _Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj_]
+
+[Illustration: _The ghat at Cawnpore_]
+
+Christmas without the usual morning service seemed peculiar, but the law
+of the majority in our party prevailed, and we drove instead to the Fort
+and Residency, the centre of interest since 1857. The awe and solemnity
+inspired by that visit, with the Christmas bells ever and anon breaking
+the silence, can never be forgotten. The Residency is situated in the
+centre of a large park which was the scene of a siege lasting from July
+1 to November 17, 1857, three thousand men, women, and children, besides
+the military, being there for safety. The number of refugees was reduced
+to one thousand by September; the large rooms on the ground floor of the
+Government building, with two stories above and extensive subterranean
+rooms, made their stay possible, but involved great suffering and
+horrible death as the siege went on. The large banquet hall of the
+Residency near by was converted into a hospital. Both buildings are now
+in ruins. But the roofless Residency with a tangle of vines (and a
+decrepit stairway that leads upward) furnishes a fine view of the whole
+scene, which in its very quietness bespeaks bravery, endurance, and
+heroic suffering.
+
+The buildings of Lucknow are not important, with the exception of the
+Jumma Musjid, the great Imambara with its fine gateway, court, and
+arcades. The Imambara Mosque has two minarets, and the great Imambara
+Hall, one hundred and sixty-three by fifty-three feet and forty-nine
+feet high, is one of the largest vaulted galleries in the world. The
+palaces of the late king of Oudh, the clock tower and other mosques and
+tombs, were visited, for, as usual, the persistent guide insisted on our
+seeing all the "sights" (exaggerating the descriptions, it always
+seemed, in proportion to their lack of importance), and it was "Memsahib
+this" and "Memsahib that." Christmas Day, with a June temperature, soon
+came to a close; the dinner was somewhat English in its many
+appointments, with its roast beef and plum pudding,--other home touches
+being added by our ever-thoughtful Director. There was good cheer, but
+we silently thought of home and the friends far away.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _The Residency at Lucknow_]
+
+BENARES, _December 26th_: Benares is the sacred city of India, and the
+river Ganges with the ghats is the point where thousands upon thousands
+of worshippers congregate, coming from every point where Hinduism
+prevails. We had anticipated revolting scenes, and were not
+disappointed, as the superstition of the devotees, the grasping conduct
+of the priests, and the disgusting practices in the name of so-termed
+religion all contributed to that end. We arrived during the afternoon of
+December 26th, going to the Hotel de Paris. A drive was instantly
+proposed, and we were taken to the Maharaja's palace, with grounds laid
+out conventionally, the trees and shrubs representing peacocks and
+animals of different kinds. The palace was spacious but tawdrily
+furnished; it is noteworthy as being the home to which the Maharaja and
+his family repair whenever they feel the approach of death; there is a
+superstition among the Hindus that death must occur on the north bank of
+the sacred river Ganges, in order to become a monkey after death
+(monkeys are considered sacred); for if the demise occurs on the
+opposite side of the Ganges, one would surely become a donkey.
+
+We next turned toward the celebrated Monkey Temple, a pretentious but
+inartistic structure of red sandstone, presided over by the monster wife
+of Siva, the Goddess Kali, who is seated on an interior shrine and
+almost terrifies the beholder by her demoniacal smile, her neck being
+wreathed with skulls. The Goddess of Blood demands a daily sacrifice,
+usually a goat and sometimes even a buffalo. At least twenty
+terrible-looking priests were in attendance upon her when we arrived and
+were ready to slay the inoffensive goat if money was forthcoming. We,
+however, declined to witness such a spectacle. Monkeys, disgustingly old
+and fat, were everywhere, and filled large trees surrounding the temple,
+two hundred at least being visible. Beggars, mendicants, and priests
+were abundantly in evidence.
+
+In an attempt to throw some small coins to some children, I was nearly
+crushed, the crowd closing around me and separating me from my party,
+until a tall Brahman priest with a huge stick checked the mob and I
+escaped, to be admonished by the Director of the party, who declared
+that I must never repeat the experiment, however much my sympathies
+might be drawn upon by the scenes that impressed me.
+
+[Illustration: _Bathing ghat, Benares_]
+
+[Illustration: _Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur_]
+
+The following morning we proceeded at 7 A.M. to the scene of all others
+in Benares, the bathing ghats. These are steps leading down from the
+plateau to the river on the banks of the Ganges and extending a distance
+of nearly three miles. Seated in a native small boat, we sailed
+leisurely up and down for hours, watching the unusual spectacle. The
+Brahman priests were everywhere (there being thirty thousand in Benares
+who live on the offerings of the pilgrims), some seated under
+umbrella-like canopies, some under tents, others bathing, and others
+performing certain sacred offices for the devotees who had come hither
+in state, on elephants or camels, by train or on foot, all intent on
+securing an increase of religious zeal. The crowds bathing in the sacred
+river are a continuous spectacle. There are piers built out into the
+stream for convenience, filled with pilgrims of every hue and variety of
+dress and undress, some simply wearing the loin cloth, which startled us
+at first, but now seemed the legitimate outcome of a lean purse and a
+hot climate.
+
+In addition, there is a continuous refrain of voices in solemn
+supplication to one or more of the many thousands of Hindu gods, for it
+has been stated that there are two hundred thousand divinities in India.
+At one point there is a burning ghat, and one morning we witnessed the
+preparation for two cremations, one of a poor man and the other of the
+wife of a Maharaja. The two ceremonies differed little, except that the
+wood for the funeral pile of one cost a mere pittance, while the
+sandalwood for the latter cost six hundred rupees. The corpse is carried
+on a small litter, or bier, made of bamboo sticks (a man is robed in
+white and a woman in red), and deposited in the Ganges, feet foremost;
+care is taken that the whole body be immersed in order that purification
+may be complete. The relatives arrange the pile of wood, about eight
+logs being required. Then the body is transferred to the pyre, and the
+torch is applied by one of the family, the others sitting solemnly
+around in a circle. When consumed, the ashes are scattered in the river
+Ganges. It is a gruesome spectacle, however much it may be in the
+interest of sanitary science; but less so to me, who had witnessed the
+distribution of the bodies at the Towers of Silence in Bombay.
+
+It will be seen that the principal commodity in Benares is holiness; but
+there is one creditable industry, namely, the manufacture of brass.
+Several shops were visited, but we liked the modern styles less than the
+old Benares brass with which we were familiar.
+
+One thought was uppermost while in Benares; I had pondered over it
+before in our visit to India. It was that with the masses Hinduism
+to-day means superstition and idolatry, in spite of the fact that the
+earlier teaching was of a pure character. That the cultivated Hindus
+accept the practices and the priesthood is a mystery as subtle as the
+law of caste or the iron law of custom. It is a depressing thought, and
+causes a profound feeling of thankfulness that Providence placed us in a
+fairer land.
+
+[Illustration: _The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares_]
+
+The missionary effort of England, America, and other countries has for
+years been directed toward changing the condition of the masses, but the
+law of caste is such that, to use a set phrase, if a man become a
+Christian, he is ostracized, even by the members of his own family,
+unless they too follow his example. He is also ostracized as regards any
+business he may follow, and the sacrifice he is forced to undergo seems
+almost too great for human endurance. Still, according to missionary
+reports, this sacrifice is frequently made, which is equivalent to true
+heroism. Naturally, the progress of proselyting is slower in India than
+in any other country of the Orient, but it is the consensus of opinion
+that a greater extension of hospitals in charge of so-termed
+missionaries and a greater extension of schools for the young are the
+leaven that will work satisfactory results in the future. Another
+reassuring sign is the establishment of the Central Hindu College at
+Benares by Mrs. A.B. Besant, the Theosophist. This is intended to
+elevate the Hindu youth, combining religious and moral education with
+mental and athletic development. We saw only the exterior of the
+building.
+
+Four miles from Benares, at the site of the old Benares, called Sarnath,
+is a most interesting ancient monument known as the Tope of Sarnath. It
+is the best preserved of any in Bengal. It was erected in Deer Park to
+mark the spot sanctified by the presence of Buddha. It was explored in
+1835 and found to be a stupa; but containing no relics, it was evidently
+intended to indicate the spot where Buddha first assumed his mission as
+a teacher. The tope consists of a stone basement ninety-three feet in
+diameter and solidly built of stone. Above the stone is brickwork rising
+to a height of one hundred and twenty feet from the plain. The lower
+story has niches evidently intended for a figure of Buddha, and below
+this is a band of sculptured ornaments of great beauty; it is thought
+from the evidences of ornamentation that in date it corresponds to the
+best period of Delhi. There is an interesting temple in the vicinity,
+and there formerly was a large Buddhist monastery. One also finds acres
+of mounds and debris indicating a large Buddhist foundation in the days
+when Buddha reigned supreme.
+
+We left Benares for Darjeeling the evening of December 27th, and the
+prospect of a glimpse of mountain scenery in the famed Himalaya
+foothills, eight thousand feet above the sea, was exhilarating after the
+depressing scenes behind us.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SILIGURI, _December 28th_: We arrived at Siliguri early the following
+morning, December 28th, and were at once transferred to the Darjeeling
+and Himalayan Railway (two-foot gauge with open cars), a triumph of
+engineering skill on account of the sudden and wonderful curves which
+continue from the beginning to the end and cause the famous Horseshoe
+Curve of the Pennsylvania Railway to sink into insignificance. The
+ride was exciting, as every bend revealed something new and startling.
+Leaving the plain of Bengal behind us, which is a feature of interest,
+we commenced the ascent; first through a jungle of cane and grass, both
+very high, where tigers, leopards, bears, deer, and the like have their
+home; and next through a forest with few familiar trees save the giant
+oak. Higher up the graceful bamboo is seen, and still higher fruit trees
+are plentiful; then small tea plantations appear, and a more peaceful
+landscape. Another bold curve and the glorious snow-capped Kanchanjanga
+range is in full view,--a perfect panorama, the atmosphere being clear
+and the sky almost cloudless. It was one of the supreme moments of life.
+We were now nearing Darjeeling, having made a gradual descent during the
+last half-hour.
+
+[Illustration: _A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DARJEELING, _December 28th_: The Woodlands Hotel, picturesquely situated
+on the side of a lesser mountain, became our abiding-place for all too
+short a time. Darjeeling is beautifully located upon a ridge, seven
+thousand feet above water level. The mountain side is picturesque with
+its sprinkling of villas and bungalows, tall mountains towering up as a
+background. The average temperature is eighty degrees in summer and
+thirty in winter; hence it is a favorite resort. There is a sanitarium
+here, called "The Eden." The mountain views prove a great attraction;
+the Kanchanjanga range is seen beyond the intervening mountains, with a
+vast chasm in the foreground.
+
+The Mall is the principal promenade, and winds around Observatory Hill,
+from which fine glimpses of the country are to be obtained. In the
+vicinity is St. Andrew's Church, with interesting tablets, and near by
+the summer residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal.
+
+We were admonished to hurry our luncheon in order not to lose the
+opportunity of seeing the celebrated bazar of which we had heard so
+much, even in Bombay. I do not refer to the regular street bazar, but to
+a bazar at which crowds of peasants from different provinces congregate
+once a week for the sale of silver and turquoise jewelry, which is
+mostly exhibited on their persons, supplemented by a small bundle which
+is carried; but the transactions are very primitive and unlike those at
+any other bazar. Then there are the quaint things they wear,--artistic
+chatelaines with articles generally suspended and thrown over the
+shoulder, instead of worn around the waist, immense earrings,
+finger-rings, bracelets, and anklets; also large round silver pins for
+the hair, suspended between two long ornaments resembling an elongated
+corkscrew--all linked together with a narrow black ribbon tied in a
+bow. The wearing of this latter head ornament was very grotesque, and I
+bought one taken from the hair of a peasant, besides purchasing some
+other articles which now serve as a reminder of the quaint scene. The
+dress of the men, women, and children was peculiar, and varied according
+to their province, such as Bhutias, Tibetans, Nepalese, Pelaris,
+Ghorkas, and others.
+
+[Illustration: _A Nepaulese group_]
+
+Their shrewd faces were illuminated with smiles as they realized the
+success of a bargain which was doubtless far in excess of the value of
+the article purchased; or failing of a bargain their persistent attempts
+to secure one were amusing. As we walked around through the motley
+crowd, powerless to express ourselves except in the universal language
+of pantomime, with mountains all around us and the Kanchanjanga still in
+view, we felt as though we were a part of a play, it seemed so unreal.
+Later we visited the street bazars, all of them furnished with articles
+claimed to be antique. In the evening the proprietor of the hotel gave
+us an interesting description of scenes in Tibet, illustrated with
+lantern views.
+
+The cold of late December now became intense, and it required some
+courage to be called at three o'clock in the morning for an expedition
+to Tiger Hill to see the sun rise. A half-hour after, nevertheless, saw
+our departure, and you would have smiled at the spectacle I presented,
+seated in a chair with six bearers (two for a relay), rugs and cushions
+piled around me, the crowning feature being a red blanket which, at the
+last moment, one of the bearers draped around my shoulders. It was
+moonlight when we left the valley. The view of each mountain and gorge
+was marvellous, so unlike daylight, as the moon ever throws elusive
+shadows about all things it touches. Before we reached our destination,
+the first streak of dawn was faintly outlined against the horizon, as if
+heralding the approach of some great spectacle, which soon came in
+shades of gold and pink; then bursting forth like a great ball of fire
+which illuminated the whole scene, even the distant Kanchanjanga range
+being suffused with a pinkish glow. We held our breath and were
+thankful, for the guide had told us that a perfect sunrise was a rare
+occurrence. Mount Everest, 29,002 feet high, eighty miles distant, and
+the highest peak in the world, as usual was but dimly seen. After the
+excitement of the morning, the hot coffee and rolls which were provided
+for us proved most acceptable. We lingered on for a half-hour, amused
+that even above the clouds human nature is the same, as every bearer
+produced rings or other trinkets for our inspection and possible
+purchase. The descent was made in the blinding sunlight, and indeed it
+was so warm that we laid aside our blankets, and we noted the different
+aspects which all Nature wore.
+
+A nine-o'clock breakfast followed, and we were ready for other
+experiences. The descent to Siliguri was not unlike the ascent, with the
+view reversed. A night train conveyed us to Sara Ghat, where we arrived
+early in the morning and were taken across the river Ganges to
+Dumonkdeah, where we took a train for Calcutta, one hundred and sixteen
+miles distant.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CALCUTTA, _December 31st_: There is, in a certain sense, a link between
+Benares and Calcutta; the latter is situated on the Hooghly River, which
+is an outlet of the river Ganges, but no resemblance exists between
+India's modern winter capital and the city of superstition. We arrived
+in Calcutta on December 31st, and repaired to the Strand Hotel. An
+afternoon drive to Eden Park proved delightful, and on every side we saw
+attractive surroundings.
+
+January 1st dawned brightly, and found us at 7 A.M. driving to the fine
+esplanade, called "The Maidan," and extending two miles. We were on our
+way to witness the great annual military review by the Viceroy, now Lord
+Minto. Presentation Day is the term here applied to New Year's Day. It
+was a gala occasion indeed, and the equipages of the rich, and the
+smaller vehicles of all descriptions, encircled the barrier that
+intervened between the spectators and those who were to furnish the
+display. There were also hundreds on foot, some of them in the brilliant
+native dress of various colors, with their many-hued turbans. This was
+specially noticeable in the livery of many of the native carriages,
+where gold trimmings were profuse, and the same scheme was carried out
+in the dress of the two coachmen and two footmen, the latter being
+called _syces_. The militia presented a splendid appearance, and the
+infantry marched with the greatest precision, but the cavalry, as usual,
+carried off the honors as regards spectacular display, particularly the
+native cavalry with their picturesque dress. Lord Minto and his aides
+were elegantly decked in their accoutrements and elicited much cheering.
+
+We returned for a nine-thirty breakfast, and left afterwards for a
+sight-seeing expedition, having been warned not to expect much in this
+line at Calcutta. St. Paul's Cathedral--English--was interesting on
+account of the many memorials and statues, one of Bishop Heber having
+much merit. Fort William and the grounds of the Government House, the
+Dalhousie Club, the Black Hole, and other points were also visited.
+
+[Illustration: _The Government House in Calcutta_]
+
+The Black Hole is so often mentioned in connection with Calcutta that a
+few words of explanation seem necessary. It was at the time of the
+siege of Calcutta in 1756 a small room in the barracks, twenty-two by
+fourteen feet in size, and sixteen feet in height. One hundred human
+beings were crowded into it on the night of June 20th, and there were
+only twenty-three survivors in the morning. A memorial obelisk was
+erected by one of these survivors, and this was restored by order of
+Lord Curzon.
+
+The Imperial Museum is a very large building and has extensive
+geological and archaeological departments. It also possesses a fine
+library.
+
+We omitted the burning ghat, remembering the one at Benares, but a Hindu
+temple revealed another repulsive goddess, Kali, and the sacrifice of
+the goat had just occurred. The river front has a ghat for bathing.
+
+A drive to the distant Botanical Gardens proved of much interest, and
+the largest banyan tree in the world was there displayed, having four
+hundred and sixty-four aerial branches and covering over an acre in
+extent; there were also long avenues of palms.
+
+Lacking the fine harbor of Bombay, Calcutta is still a city of great
+commercial importance and of many natural attractions and fine public
+buildings. It is, however, a place of decided contrasts, imposing
+streets of residences being not far distant from as wretched a native
+quarter as may be seen in any other Indian city. To the casual tourist
+Calcutta seems a large English city (eight hundred thousand
+inhabitants), especially so in the life on the Maidan, the centre of
+attraction and fashion. Eden Park is also greatly frequented, and the
+race-course is the finest in India; but, notwithstanding, Calcutta has
+not the charm of Bombay. The Strand Hotel gave us an elaborate menu for
+our New Year's dinner, which was supplemented by flowers and bonbons,
+and we all voted the occasion, even if in a foreign land, a success. And
+so I link Lucknow and Calcutta together in the holiday column of my
+memory.
+
+I have before alluded to the sad, dejected faces of the natives of North
+India; the Bengali seemed a trifle more melancholy, as is their
+reputation. We did not regret our departure, although it meant the loss
+of our faithful Indian guide, Dalle, and our travelling servant, Jusef,
+both with their long India bordered shawls artistically thrown over one
+shoulder, and their high white turbans rolled round and round the head,
+the finishing touch being a tall conical ornament that stood up in the
+centre. This is significant of their territorial province, styles of
+turbans varying with the locality. The early hour of 6 A.M. found us
+departing on the British and India line for a steamer trip of three
+days, Rangoon being our destination.
+
+[Illustration: _An avenue of palms in the Botanical Gardens_]
+
+The trip was restful, but afforded little variety, and we hailed our
+arrival at Rangoon with delight early on the morning of January 6th. By
+a late decision we concluded to go on at once to Mandalay and leave
+Rangoon to be visited on our return. Taking a train at noon, we were
+favored by journeying in _de luxe_ cars, sacred to the use of high
+officials, and so complete in equipment as to include bathroom,
+shower-bath, and other conveniences. The afternoon ride was through a
+fertile country, rice and bananas being the principal products. The rice
+crop had been garnered, and piles of bags were ready at every station
+for shipment to Rangoon (the amount shipped is two hundred thousand tons
+annually). Later we visited a field where rice was being harvested. It
+is not unlike wheat in the sheaf, but smaller. The country process after
+cutting is first to pound the rice, and then winnow it so as to remove
+the hull; this is done by throwing it in the air, by means of a round
+flat plate with a handle. Machinery is used in the cities.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BURMA: We were now far from the centre of things, in a remote corner of
+Southeastern Asia, hidden in the midst of mountains, which were for ages
+the safeguard against Indian invaders and the aggression of China.
+Proselyting Buddhists, however, found their way from India and brought
+civilization with them.
+
+There is a great diversity of races in Burma, various foreign tribes
+having come there and remained, making a mixed population. There are now
+about sixty thousand Palaings wearing the Chin dress. The Kachins, a
+warlike people, formerly made raids on the Burmans who lived on the
+border of China, the Chins dwelling among the hills. The Karens are
+numerically the strongest and live in the delta of the Irrawaddy. They
+had been an oppressed people, but achieved their liberty under British
+rule, and it is estimated that one hundred thousand abjured Buddhism and
+became Christians. The Chins are the oldest, having come from China two
+thousand years ago.
+
+Southern Burma was under British rule before the middle of the
+nineteenth century, but it is only since January, 1886, that England has
+controlled Northern Burma. King Thebaw's downfall was caused by his
+numerous cruel acts to foreigners, which compelled the British to take
+steps to check him. His headquarters were at Mandalay, and his deserted
+palace is the centre of attraction to-day. The most prominent feature is
+the fort, in and about which are grouped the palace of the King, the
+houses of Government officials and residents of the military quarter.
+
+[Illustration: _Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay_]
+
+[Illustration: _Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the
+Universe_]
+
+The palace was erected by Mindon Min, King Thebaw's father. It covers an
+immense area and is encompassed by a high wall of red brick, in which
+are twelve gates, each one surrounded by a conical cupola, with layers
+of upturned eaves after the peculiar fashion of the country; the same
+thing is characteristic of China.
+
+The fort is entirely surrounded by a moat, one hundred feet wide and
+twelve feet deep. Five bridges also lead from five of the gateways. The
+moat supplies drinking water for the city and is covered with the purple
+lotus blossom. Its width and extent make it a characteristic feature of
+Mandalay. Roads run parallel with the walls and lead to the entrance of
+the palace gardens, once very beautiful.
+
+The palace is a square of twenty or more buildings, built of teak,
+painted red, and covered originally with gold leaf. The roofs have
+layers of upturned eaves, and the buildings are richly decorated with
+colored ornamentation, while the worn gilding and faded reds are blended
+in the peculiar shading which time alone can give. There are many
+audience rooms, these usually furnished with elaborately decorated
+thrones, as is also the audience room in the beautiful adjacent palace
+of the Queen; her throne and the King's great throne in the principal
+audience room under the lofty cupola (called pyathat, and termed by the
+people the "Centre of the Universe") are especially imposing and rich in
+decoration. On either side of this audience chamber are large audience
+rooms; these were used for some time after the British occupation as a
+church for the soldiers, and the Queen's palace was turned into a
+resting place for the Upper Burma Club; now both the church and the club
+have appropriate edifices of their own. Between two of the principal
+rooms is a screen, utilized as a wall and panelled in glass, mosaic, and
+mirrors, which is very effective and reminds one of the glass room in
+the palace at Amber.
+
+From the high hill at Mandalay, one may gain an excellent general view
+of the many pagodas and monasteries in which the city abounds; for this
+is verily the land of the pagoda. The most beautiful of all, called the
+Incomparable, was destroyed by fire. One of great interest was built by
+Mindon Min, and called the Kuthodau, or, more generally, the 450
+Pagodas, but there are said to be seven hundred and twenty-nine cupolas
+surrounding the great central pagoda, each containing an alabaster slab
+upon which are engraved some texts of Buddha taken from the Pali Bible,
+the King thinking thus to perpetuate them,--the whole surrounded by a
+wall, in which are built two richly decorated gates.
+
+[Illustration: _The Arakan Pagoda_]
+
+[Illustration: _One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas_]
+
+Situated very near the so-termed 450 Pagodas is a group of attractive
+pagodas in carved wood and plaster of different designs. In the centre
+is an unfinished marble pagoda, called Kyauk Taw Gyi, which contains
+a huge attractive figure of Buddha, twenty-five feet high.
+
+On the same morning we visited the glass monastery which once on a time
+had been very imposing. Here we saw the Bishop and a number of novice
+priests receiving instruction, taking, I imagine, a kind of postgraduate
+course. All were most affable and seemed happy, as does every one in
+Burma. At this monastery two of our party were given copies of a portion
+of the Burmese Bible.
+
+Monasteries are also very prominent in Burma, and they are usually boys'
+schools, both for young and adult people.
+
+In the afternoon we visited the great Arakan Pagoda, a shrine which
+pilgrims of the Buddhist faith frequent from all over the world. It is
+built in the form of a square tower, rising in a series of terraces,
+growing smaller and ending in a finial at the summit. There are also
+battlements with finials capping the top. The whole is gilded and is
+very magnificent in appearance, even to the gilded figure of Buddha,
+which occupies the principal throne. The day we were there, the throne
+was surrounded by worshippers, and the long passages leading from the
+pagoda to it were densely thronged. There are four smaller passages,
+each being filled with stalls where is displayed almost every
+conceivable article, even to fruit and flowers. Near one of the
+passages are two large tanks filled with grayish water where are kept
+the sacred turtles. The turtles were fed while we were present and
+seemed very tame. In the adjacent enclosure we saw many large bells of
+graduated size, for which Burma is famous. In an enclosure young men
+were playing the game of football, called "Chinlon," in that country,
+which means "round basket," the ball being about six inches in diameter.
+The players stand in a circle a few feet apart. The ball is thrown by
+one, and the player nearest to whom it falls kicks it in the air, and
+attempts to repeat this feat several times in order to keep the ball up,
+but failing to do so, the next player gains possession and throws it,
+and so on.
+
+The visit to the Queen's Golden Monastery was peculiarly interesting. It
+is a fine specimen of native architecture, made of elaborately carved
+teakwood, finely gilded, but showing the marks of age. In the large
+central room, from which leads a smaller room separated only by columns,
+the so-called golden image of Buddha (also bejewelled) rests on a raised
+dais, and in front is a long table containing a great variety of votive
+offerings to the deity from a widely scattered circle of believers. The
+columns surrounding these rooms were profusely decorated with glass
+ornamentation, and the effect was startling. The Bishop in his robe of
+yellow silk--the color of the Buddhist priesthood--was gracious, and
+the young priests very jolly. We received several presents of long
+narrow books written on palm-leaf, the text being a translation in
+modern Burmese from the old Pali Bible. It is unnecessary to add that we
+left compensation, the sale of said books being forbidden; hence such is
+the way of evading the law!
+
+[Illustration: _The Queen's Golden Monastery_]
+
+[Illustration: _Karen women in Mandalay_]
+
+This monastery contained, like the Silver Monastery, a school for
+children. On our departure, an interesting little episode occurred. A
+young priest draped his long yellow robe around one of the gentlemen, in
+veritable Roman toga style, the right arm and shoulder being exposed.
+Then one of the party took a photograph, promising to send a copy to the
+monastery.
+
+The support of the Buddhist monasteries depends on charity, and a
+procession of priests from each monastery goes about with mendicant
+bowls or baskets, each morning soliciting food and fruit, everything
+being placed in one receptacle. Rice, however, is the principal
+contribution.
+
+We also visited the Aindaw-Yah Pagoda, the oldest in Mandalay. This is
+entirely gilt, from base to spire, and presents an imposing appearance.
+It is surrounded by a large square or platform on which are placed
+various other shrines containing small images of Buddha.
+
+The cause of there being so many pagodas in Burma is that thereby the
+builder gains renown and paves the way for greater happiness in a future
+state. For the above reason the pagoda is seldom repaired. The builder
+desires to be approached as "the builder of a pagoda," and invariably
+addresses his wife as "O wife of a pagoda builder." Architecturally the
+pagoda, in general, may be described as having a spire, massive
+throughout, rising from a circular, square, or octagonal base, in a
+succession of tiers or circles, of which the upper is always narrower
+than the one beneath it.
+
+The principal industry of Mandalay is the weaving of silk, for which it
+is very celebrated, and a visit to the bazar was most interesting.
+Unlike the bazars previously described, this was a large, high building,
+filled with aisles and furnished with long tables, at the back of which
+sat the saleswomen; all the business of the bazar is carried on by
+women. There was a great variety of silk weaving of every conceivable
+shape and style, the sarong being prominent. This is a long colored
+garment which the women of Burma wear pinned tightly around them below
+the waist, unlike the fuller skirt we had seen in India, the dress being
+completed by a short, loose jacket which shows a white under-vest and a
+long, wide sash. The market was also very interesting, in a small
+building next or adjoining the silk bazar.
+
+[Illustration: _Burmese country house near Mandalay_]
+
+It may be well to speak here of the happy, contented, pleasure-loving
+Burmese women. Indeed, their condition could have been envied a few
+years ago, even in a portion of our own United States, as they can hold
+property in their own right and are entitled to their earnings. This
+causes them to be very industrious as well as executive. It is possible
+that the sunny aspect of Nature may partly be responsible for their
+joyous appearance, as it certainly causes the men to be very indolent
+and quite willing that their wives should carry on their business,
+provided they are left undisturbed to enjoy life in their own way.
+
+The women are very fond of dress, and, unlike the women of India, wear
+only real jewelry; travellers see a profusion of solitaire diamond
+rings, every one of which is said to be genuine.
+
+There is no caste in Burma and no division of class; in the olden time
+any one might become a prince or a prime minister if he had the ability
+to rise. There is little expression of art or literature, the life being
+very simple. The people are indeed children of Nature, and the only
+expression of taste is to be found in their pagodas and monasteries.
+Their silver work and wood carving are fine. The houses in the country
+are usually built of bamboo, raised from the ground on poles, four to
+six feet, as protection against floods, reptiles, and other mishaps.
+The floor usually consists of split bamboo, the thatched roof of
+elephant grass. The sides of the house are of bamboo, opening to the
+street on verandas. Some have second stories. Around these homes birds
+and animals and naked children are everywhere to be seen.
+
+Among the incidents of our stay at Mandalay I remember a native dance,
+called "Pwe," given one evening in front of the hotel. This was a little
+on the order of a vaudeville, consisting of a mixture of talk, song, and
+dance. The performers were arranged on a high platform. The women were
+dressed in the extreme of Burmese fashion, having long pink silk sarongs
+tightly drawn around them, jackets and long sashes, and with flowers in
+the hair. They appeared in the dancing and the singing, while the two
+men furnished the dialogue. The music was anything but melodious, and
+the talking we could not understand; but from the applause of the large
+number of spectators gathered around, we assumed, however, that it was
+funny. The movement of the dance was very slow and measured, as had been
+all the dancing we had witnessed in the Orient. The effect was rather
+spectacular, seen in a dim light, with trees for a background. Whenever
+a dance of this kind occurs, it soon gets noised about, and large
+gatherings of people arrive, and they group themselves around, sitting
+always on the ground and observing a profound silence except when they
+applaud.
+
+[Illustration: _A national dance at Mandalay_]
+
+Near our hotel was an English Wesleyan mission, directed by the Rev. Mr.
+Bestol. A friend and I visited it, and found it very interesting and
+cheerful,--the home of the missionaries, and the assistant teachers who
+supervised the boys' and girls' school, and the dormitories. They seemed
+to be doing a very good work. On the occasion of our first call, they
+had all gone on a picnic, quite after our usual Sunday-school fashion.
+We also heard of other missions of merit.
+
+At 5 P.M. we left our hotel for the landing of the Irrawaddy Flotilla
+Company to pass the night on the steamer _Siam_. We were now on a model
+river vessel for three days. The scenery was varied and picturesque. At
+points from the water's edge there were terraced slopes of vegetation,
+trees of many kinds and hues, the dark green foliage alternating with
+the light green of the graceful bamboo, while creepers and flowers
+peeped out here and there, also clumps of toddy palms rearing their
+lofty heads, while the ever-prevalent pagoda glistened white or golden
+through the branches. As the steamer carried freight, occasional stops
+were made, and this gave variety to the scene.
+
+We arrived at Pakoku about 4 P.M. and anchored for the night. The shore
+was lined with piles of bags, boxes, and other usual accessories.
+Natives were seen in all directions with a new array of articles, some
+bearing baskets suspended from bamboo poles across the shoulders, while
+bullock carts and other primitive vehicles, together with the variety of
+style and color of the attire worn by the natives, made a scene truly
+picturesque. We also stopped at Mirout. Here were mud volcanoes, which
+some of the party visited, being carried there in bullock carts, and
+found them rather interesting, the volcanoes emitting mud instead of
+lava.
+
+We arrived at a place near old Pagan at four in the morning, and never
+can I forget the spectacle presented from my stateroom window. There was
+total darkness, save where long lines of natives with lanterns, coming
+from the woods in every direction, were seen carrying boxes, bales, and
+baskets of freight to the shore. Once at the landing, the rush and
+commotion and waving of lanterns were truly Burmese. The next point in
+our progress was old Pagan, where we saw many pagodas, but we were told
+that there were as many as a thousand in the days of her prosperity.
+
+On the river we constantly passed shipping of various kinds, sometimes
+huge rafts of teakwood propelled by natives, mostly devoid of attire;
+the peculiar Burman paddy boats of old Egyptian style are used for
+transporting unhulled rice. A more peaceful trip cannot be imagined,
+and it has been compared to a passage up the Nile.
+
+[Illustration: _On the Irrawaddy River, near Sagoing_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PROME: We arrived at Prome the evening of January 12th, but owing to
+some hours' delay we were disappointed in not having the expected drive
+or visiting the celebrated pagoda. We took the night train for Rangoon
+and were so fortunate as to have the _de luxe_ cars again.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+RANGOON: We reached the city early the following morning. Rangoon is
+located on the ocean and is furthermore aided by the Irrawaddy River,
+which is navigable for over nine hundred miles. It has an unrivalled
+location for future growth and permanence. Rangoon's increase has been
+phenomenal for this latitude; in 1852 it was a small fishing village; in
+1904 the inhabitants numbered two hundred and fifty thousand, and there
+has since been a marked increase. The population is divided into
+Burmese, Hindus, Mohammedans, and Christians, with a sprinkling of other
+nationalities,--a variety which is distinctly recognized in the life of
+the city. It has a large export trade in rice, lumber, and oil, and a
+visit to one of the factories is almost always included by tourists.
+
+The shipping at Rangoon presents a picturesque variety, as ocean
+steamers, river steamers, paddy boats, and quaint smaller vessels are
+always in evidence. The civil and municipal buildings do not, however,
+compare with those of such rival cities in India as Bombay, Calcutta,
+and Madras. The bazars in the European quarter are unusually fine, and
+it was a pleasure to visit them, silks, curios, and silver work being
+well displayed. In the native quarter those of the inhabitants to be
+seen on the street (previously described) had no distinctive character,
+but the native silk bazars were mostly in a large, low, poorly lighted
+building, divided into aisles. A visit to this neighborhood showed the
+happy-go-lucky features noticed in Mandalay.
+
+Indeed, life in Burma is like a comic opera. I realized this one morning
+when going about simply to be amused. The market and pavements were
+crowded with persons of different nationalities,--the pineapple man with
+his tray of fruit, the Burmese girl with her pretty stall of cigars, the
+Hindu seller of betel, the Chinaman under his swaying burden of cooked
+meats and strange luxuries, the vermicelli man, the Indian confectioner
+with his silver-coated pyramids of sago and cream. It is of all crowds
+the most cosmopolitan. Here is the long-coated Persian with his air of
+breeding and dignity, jostled by the naked coolie with rings in his
+nose. The lady beauty of Japan dashes by in her jinrikisha drawn by a
+Chinese coolie, and the exclusive Brahman finds himself shoulder to
+shoulder with the laughing daughter of the soil who has never heard of
+caste.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Rangoon_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SHWE DAGON: The centre of attraction in Rangoon, however, is the Shwe
+Dagon Pagoda, which is famous wherever the Buddhist religion prevails;
+it is situated on an eminence, one hundred and sixty-six feet above the
+sea-level and towering up three hundred and sixty-eight feet. It is a
+very imposing structure, exceeding in height even St. Paul's Cathedral
+in London. This proportion gives it an air of dignity and repose, while
+its gilded surface from base to finial causes it to be truly
+magnificent.
+
+The structure has no interior, being built solidly of brick over a relic
+chamber; hence its platform with a circumference of about fourteen
+hundred feet is the place for worship and also for many small pagodas.
+The great pagoda is of conical shape and is divided into twelve parts,
+and of these the ti, or umbrella, valued at L60,000, is the most costly
+and remarkable, and was the gift of King Mindon, the next to the last
+king of Burma. While from its great height it is scarcely visible, it is
+really thirteen and one-half feet high and is hung with about fifteen
+hundred bells, many of them gold. When heard at night, the effect is
+magical.
+
+The southern entrance has a pair of gryphons, and beyond them is the
+entrance arch, which is inferior to the rest of the edifice. Here may be
+seen venders of many kinds, selling gold leaf (which is used by pilgrims
+on the surface of the pagoda), books, papers, toys, and offerings to
+place on the altar; and the scene around the stalls is instinct with
+life and gayety. Brightly dressed women and children, coquettish girls,
+nuns, and beggars all assemble here.
+
+There are four flights of stairs, east, west, north, and south, leading
+up to the platform; the southern one being mostly used, as it looks down
+upon the thoroughfare. The western stairs have been closed to
+worshippers, as the place is now a British fortress.
+
+It is impossible to describe the many objects of interest on this
+immense platform. Four chapels at the foot of the pagoda are guarded by
+colossal figures of the sitting Buddha, and in the farthest recess, in a
+niche, is a small Buddha, the gilding of which is discolored by the
+smoke from many thousands of tapers and candles.
+
+On each side of the pagoda are chapels with tapering roofs and upturned
+eaves, and within them are seated images of the Buddha covered with
+gold. These attract large numbers of worshippers, and with the myriad
+waxen tapers produce an impressive effect.
+
+[Illustration: _Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon_]
+
+[Illustration: _Entrance gateway, Shwe Dagon Pagoda_]
+
+[Illustration: _Chapels on platform around Shwe Dagon, Rangoon_]
+
+The chapels are decorated with screens of fine wood carving. The
+coloring is also very striking, the outside being of vermilion and gold,
+the inside of green, gold, and purple.
+
+Hundreds of Buddhas of various sizes are seen in all directions,
+sitting, standing, and reclining; and on the outer edge of the platform
+are small pagodas, each with its ti, or umbrella, and also holding its
+usual offerings of fruit, flowers, or small gifts. Seen at twilight and
+as the candles are being lighted, it is almost bewildering, even
+uncanny, as I found one evening when there alone with my guide, the
+renowned Abraham, who, even though a rigid Mohammedan, assumed a devout
+attitude.
+
+Another prominent pagoda is the gilded Sule. This is situated quite in
+the heart of things, near the Strand, and is graceful in proportions.
+The platform also contains many interesting shrines. A fine distant view
+of the Sule is obtained from Hytche Square.
+
+There are many monasteries (virtually schools for boys), the finest
+being at a suburb called Kemmendine, which is also a centre for the
+manufacture of kalagas, or blankets, usually red with figures in
+applique. We enjoyed several pleasant drives while in Rangoon, the
+favorite one being to Royal Lake and through Dalhousie Park; if taken in
+the late afternoon, one will see a gayly dressed, fashionable throng,
+either driving or walking. I had met Mr. and Mrs. W.T. Graham of the
+Burma Civil Service on the steamer from Port Said to Bombay, and I was
+indebted to them for two drives,--one to their country home, which was
+an attractive two-storied bungalow with galleries and low windows above
+and below, quite unlike the thatched houses seen in Upper Burma. There
+were contrasts in the general dress and appearance of the natives; pink
+was, however, still the prevailing color in the sarongs, sashes, and
+jackets of the women, and the long hair of the men was the custom. The
+intermarriage between Burmese women and Chinamen was said to be very
+frequent, some of the women preferring the hard-working executive
+Chinamen to the indolent Burmese. And, according to the opinion of a
+gentleman I met later, who had made a study of the subject, the
+intermarriage of the ever-prevalent Chinamen with races of the Orient,
+where caste does not prevent, is in time going to work a great racial
+revolution.
+
+One morning we rose at 5 A.M. for an early excursion to see elephants
+haul teak from the river-bank to higher ground, where the logs would dry
+before transference to the sawmills. We went at this time so as to avoid
+the heat, and also because the elephants rest after 11 A.M. The
+illustration will show the process, but it was an amusing sight to see
+five ponderous animals moving slowly along, propelling the logs with
+their trunks, and ever and anon trumpeting; not being versed in elephant
+expression, I was left in doubt as to whether the sound meant joy or
+sorrow. We visited another similar scene near a large sawmill which we
+explored under the leadership of the manager.
+
+[Illustration: _Elephants carrying logs at Rangoon_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Gilded Sule as seen from Hytche Square_]
+
+A trip to a rice-mill had been spoken of, but, not having breakfasted,
+we preferred to return to the hotel. Tea and toast were served at
+rising, if one desired it, during our entire "Tour." Another novel
+excursion was a long drive to some half-ruined Buddhist temples, a
+monastery, and buildings assigned to the peculiar rites which precede
+the cremation of a Buddhist priest; two bodies were seen in
+curious-looking receptacles, awaiting the culmination of events.
+
+We were disappointed in not seeing a "ceremony," but were told to come
+in the evening and witness a temple dance, and, I believe, also a
+semi-dramatic ceremony. Some of the party did so, but I remained in the
+hotel to write letters, as we were to leave the following morning.
+
+I have alluded to Abraham, our guide in Burma, as a devout Mohammedan,
+but he had numerous characteristics which rather caused distrust, one of
+them being his extreme deference to the ladies of the party, when
+according to the tenets of his religion we were all "fiends incarnate";
+the other was his apparent abject acceptance of all Buddhist
+ceremonies, which we knew at heart he detested. However, "guides" became
+a prolific study, as time went on.
+
+The weather had been hot in Rangoon; so, in spite of our pleasant Burman
+experiences and the joyousness of things in general, we hailed the
+steamer voyage as affording some measure of relief. We sailed at 7 A.M.
+on January 17th, on the steamer _Palmicotta_, for a voyage of four days
+to Madras. As usual, nothing occurred to mar the even tenor of our way;
+the ship was comfortable, the passengers affable, and the sea on good
+behavior.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MADRAS, _January 21st_: We arrived at Madras early on the morning of
+January 21st. The view of the city from the pier was disappointing, but
+the drive of about two miles to the Hotel Connemara showed much natural
+beauty, the trees in particular being very fine. Hot weather met us at
+Madras, but as it is a city of magnificent distances, driving was a
+necessity, and hence less exertion was required. In the park and at the
+Botanical Gardens we saw more natural beauty and took the long drive to
+the sea front, where the fashionable people of the city of Marina go in
+large numbers, and which leads past fine municipal buildings, the
+college, and other places of importance. St. George's Church is
+pleasing, with its quota of memorial statues, and the close is very
+attractive, reminding one of England. The drive through the native
+quarter, called Black Town, presented unusual features. The fort and
+parks were visited, as were also some rather attractive bazars. The
+museum is interesting from an historical standpoint and has many statues
+and bas-reliefs, some relating to Prince Gautama and some to Hindu gods;
+there are also relics of saints. It is particularly rich in specimens of
+armor and jewelled swords.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Madras_]
+
+Madras seems quite as unlike the cities of Northern India as does
+Rangoon, and comparatively few of the thousands of tourists who frequent
+Northern India ever visit Southern India, a great distinction between
+the two being made. It is, however, conveniently near the great Seven
+Pagodas, which we did not visit, and is the gateway to the famous
+Dravidian temples which presented much interest.
+
+We left early in the afternoon in order to visit Tanjore, Trichinopoly,
+and Madura, and for two days sleeping-cars were to be our home. There
+are no hotels in these cities, the wonderful temples serving as a
+substitute, while the English railway restaurant afforded us a certain
+amount of sustenance. The ride to Tanjore was through a lovely country
+with beautiful palms, groves of vari-hued trees, and occasionally a
+tangle of vines.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TANJORE: On our arrival at Tanjore in the afternoon we went directly to
+the forts which enclose the temple, palace, and gopuras. The temple is
+in the little fort. The gopuras claim first attention. They are really
+gateways, a feature peculiar to Southern India. They were intended as a
+fortification to protect the temples from foreign invaders, and are
+imposing in size and structure--towering up (some nine stories high)
+course after course, and literally covered with carvings of animals and
+gods, all colored in red and gold. We passed through a gopura ninety
+feet high, next through a passage one hundred and seventy feet long,
+then through a small gopura, when we arrived at the large outer
+enclosure of the temple, four hundred and fifty by eight hundred feet.
+This is further surrounded by cloisters and open to outsiders, who are
+not, however, permitted to enter the great temple of the adjacent halls.
+But even at a distance we could admire their barbaric splendor.
+
+We were also entertained by the gorgeous temple peacock (considered
+sacred), of enormous size, which, with outstretched tail, posed for us
+with as much evident vanity as a coquettish girl. There are smaller
+shrines and temples distributed about the great enclosure, and in one
+temple is an immense bronze bull. The tower of the great temple is only
+thirty-eight feet lower than the Kutub Minar described in "Old Delhi."
+In the northwest corner of the enclosure is an exquisite small temple
+called Siva Manya and dedicated to the son of Siva. It has a tower fifty
+feet high and a base forty feet square, adorned with pillars, and these
+are continued along another cloister, fifty feet long. Mr. Ferguson
+writes: "It is as exquisite a piece of decorative architecture as is to
+be found in Southern India." The great fort seems like a continuation of
+the small one, and in it are situated the palace and Schwartz Church.
+
+[Illustration: _The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore_]
+
+The palace of the Princess of Tanjore is an immense structure and was
+built about 1550 A.D. It has no merit architecturally, but possesses
+certain features of interest; one of these is a large Durbar room which
+contains bas-reliefs on the wall, and a platform of black granite, on
+which stands a white marble statue by Flaxman of Raja Shah Foji, who was
+a pupil of Flaxman and who was next to the last Raja. There are also to
+be found here portraits of the various members of the royal family and a
+bust of Lord Nelson. In addition, we came across an unusual library for
+India, dating from the end of the sixteenth century, and containing
+eighteen thousand Sanskrit manuscripts, one half of them written on palm
+leaves. Our English guide showed us a portion of the palace occupied by
+two ladies, relatives of the last Raja, this being a courtesy extended
+to them by the English Government and which ceases with their death.
+The Schwartz Church dates from 1770 A.D., and the aged missionary is
+immortalized in a monument designed by Flaxman, which contains eight
+figures beside the reclining one.
+
+The Tanjore and Trichinopoly districts were the scene of the earliest
+work of the Protestant missionaries in India, and the Roman Catholic
+missionaries antedated them by half a century. Churches of these faiths
+are scattered through this and the adjoining districts. We had a late
+luncheon in the restaurant of the railway station and then repaired to
+the train. I have great dislike for a sleeping-car, so it can be
+imagined that the visit to the Dravidian temples was made under
+difficulties. We proceeded to Trichinopoly, arriving there early and
+having a long day before us.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TRICHINOPOLY: Trichinopoly, like Tanjore, has a history full of
+vicissitudes, in which the French and that picturesque figure, Lord
+Clive, appear. The temple of Sri Ranngam is situated a mile from the
+bridge and three miles from the fort, the entrance being through a
+gopura forty-eight feet high; the sides of this passage, one hundred
+feet long and forty-three feet high, are richly ornamented. The
+monoliths which serve as pillars are forty feet high, and every detail
+is on a gigantic scale; this is the largest Hindu temple in India. The
+outer enclosure alone is twenty-four hundred and seventy-five by
+twenty-eight hundred and eighty feet, and has its elephant, but it wears
+a commercial aspect (being filled with bazars) which detracts from the
+dignity of the scene. As we penetrated to the interior temple, the
+buildings diminished in size and importance; the gopuras, however, are
+imposing (there are nine in all), with their profuse decoration, all
+being painted and all varying in size.
+
+[Illustration: _Fort Rock, Trichinopoly_]
+
+In the court around the central enclosure is a hall of about one
+thousand pillars; these are of granite, eighteen feet in height. On one
+side the pillars represent men astride rearing horses, the horses' feet
+being supported by the shields of men on foot beside them. This temple
+was built about 700 B.C. The tanks are of interest in Trichinopoly, but
+less so than in Madura.
+
+The great rock is the most noticeable feature, tunnelled out of which is
+a circular staircase with a gateway leading to interior temples, and on
+the sides of this passage are pillars with peculiar capitals which seem
+to indicate Jain origin. The way upward was dimly lighted, and all
+manner of accidents seemed possible. In fact, there was a very serious
+accident in 1849, when five hundred persons were killed. At one landing
+there was a school of small boys; at another, there were groups of
+worshippers making their descent; turning to the left, we saw a small
+temple of Siva. In the dim light everything seemed weird and unreal. The
+view from the top of the rock was far-reaching, gopuras and temples
+gleaming through the green foliage. There were sacred elephants here, as
+at Tanjore, standing in the usual receptive attitude; for them small
+coins were more acceptable than food, showing how adroitly they had been
+trained.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MADURA: Another very early arrival at Madura, and the programme of the
+day before was repeated. Although Madura is a large place, the temples,
+gopuras, and palaces are the chief attraction. The famous Palace of
+Tirumala Nayak is splendid in its appointments, having large, airy halls
+and audience rooms (similar to the Diwan-i-Khas of Delhi and Agra) with
+richly decorated ceilings, and the bedchamber is resplendent with
+carving and gilding. There is a fine view from the roof of the great
+temple. The nine gopuras are tall, massive, and barbaric in their
+decorations, which consist of horses, lions, elephants, gods and
+goddesses. The great shrines of Siva and his consort are almost
+interminable in their extent, and there is a long vestibule or hall
+divided into aisles by carved columns. This formed a reception room
+for the King in early times, a great contrast to the present scene of
+tumultuous venders with almost every variety of goods, who are more
+noisy than their brothers of North India.
+
+[Illustration: _The Golden Lily Tank, Madura_]
+
+[Illustration: _Entrance to the Madura Temple_]
+
+Within the temple there are many shrines and many Tamil worshippers;
+high-caste Brahmans are also there to minister to the supposed wants of
+the higher gods. Galleries led us out to still other shrines, where are
+installed additional images of gods, who on fete days are carried about
+in gold and silver chariots of untold value. All the most beautiful
+portions of the temple as it now stands were built by Tirumala Nayak,
+the great Madura ruler of modern times, who ascended the throne in 1623
+and reigned thirty-six years.
+
+One of the quadrangles opens out on a tank. An arcade runs around the
+tank, and the walls are painted with representations of the most famous
+pagodas in India. On the north side is the belfry--strange to relate, an
+American bell hangs therein. Here too is the Hall of a Thousand Pillars,
+and this is even more remarkable than the same-named hall at
+Trichinopoly, on account of the marvellous beauty of the construction.
+Near the hall is the great gopura, and opposite this is the new gallery,
+of a magnificent plan but unfinished, known as Tirumala's Choultrie.
+There is so much of interest and detail connected with all of these
+Dravidian temples that one should plan to have more time to devote to
+them. The cursory examination we were afforded measures the disadvantage
+of an itinerary. We left after luncheon for Tuticorin, and arrived there
+at 5 P.M.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TUTICORIN: Tuticorin, on the Gulf of Manaar, is the port of departure
+for Colombo, Ceylon. We had only a hurried glimpse of the city, showing
+white buildings, white sand, and the blackest natives we had yet seen.
+We inferred they were Tamils. A pleasant night on the steamer followed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+COLOMBO, _January 25th_: The morning of January 25th saw our approach to
+the fine harbor of Colombo, and we felt that at last our dream of
+viewing the beautiful island of Ceylon was to be realized. Our first
+impression was received at the landing jetty, where it seemed as if
+every nationality had its representative, so varied was the appearance
+of the natives,--the Laskas from the Malay Peninsula, the Hindus from
+India, as well as Tamil coolies, Arabs from Aden, Buddhist priests, and
+Mohammedans. We found excitement on our arrival at the hotel, owing to
+the expected appearance of the ex-Empress Eugenie and her suite, as well
+as Sir Thomas Lipton and numerous other notable guests.
+
+[Illustration: _Street scene in Colombo_]
+
+The ride to the hotel, located on the sea, had shown us unusual
+luxuriance of vegetation and wonderful trees both in fruit and in
+blossom. This fact was emphasized by a long afternoon drive, beginning
+in the native quarter with its attendant bazars and ending with a long
+country tour for at least an hour through a forest of palms of many
+varieties, the tall talipot towering high--higher even than the
+fruit-laden cocoanut palm,--while bread-fruit trees, jack-fruit trees,
+and bananas made a pleasing variety. A little diversion occurred when a
+boy climbed a tall cocoanut palm, procuring a fine specimen, and opened
+it for us to try. We passed the Victoria Bridge, which took the place of
+the bridge of boats, returning to our hotel by a way that revealed still
+more tropical wonders. The fine Galle Face Hotel, with its sense of
+spaciousness and restful ease, the illuminated grounds, the band, and
+the dash of the waves caused that first Saturday evening to seem almost
+perfection; one and all felt willing to linger on indefinitely, but,
+alas, the iron-clad itinerary must be met, and a week in the mountains
+was to follow!
+
+Colombo is a fine place in which to study types, and nothing is more
+peculiar than the Cingalese man, with his long hair braided in a knot at
+his neck, with the broad shell comb resting on his crown; on State
+occasions the chief waiters at the hotel appear in an exceedingly high
+head piece perched above their customary shell ornament, which they told
+us was the style of a hundred years ago.
+
+The jinrikisha man here is the first person to gain your attention; so
+winning are his ways and so rapid his pace that he is justly popular for
+a short spin to the very interesting shopping district, where almost
+everything may be found, the jewels holding the interest of the stranger
+above all else. But, alas, the pearl, Ceylon's home product, is to be
+had only at fabulous prices and not then in its perfection. We had heard
+of the lure of the pearl in the Gulf of Manaar (separating Ceylon from
+India), and of all the fairy-tale adventures involved in the search for
+it, and so we were disappointed in our failure to see perfect specimens.
+
+The heat in Colombo was not oppressive, but, as in other places, there
+are flying punkahs and electric appliances for cooling the air; then
+there are fans in one's room to use at will, for these Easterners like
+comfort and secure it at whatever cost, and the denizens of the West
+soon fall into their ways, even adopting the English custom of four
+o'clock tea. The spacious entrance hall at the Galle Face Hotel
+presented an animated appearance, with beautifully gowned ladies, and
+their attendants, seated around little tables sipping tea and consuming
+fruit-cake and sandwiches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NUWARA ELIYA: On Tuesday morning, January 28th, we left Colombo for the
+north. The mountain resort of Nuwara Eliya is a great boon even to the
+inhabitants of sea-swept Colombo; and it is also appreciated to its full
+by the tourist who has been surfeited with the close atmosphere of
+cities or grown tired of sea voyages. We had been told that the scenery
+combined the wildness of Switzerland with the peculiar charm of the
+Welsh mountains; hence we felt that a new experience awaited us. The
+railway ride there confirmed our first impression of Ceylon's fine
+growth of trees and shrubs, the road leading first through lowlands with
+endless cocoanut and other palms; while of all the blossom-laden trees
+the gold mohr, with its wealth of scarlet blossoms, surpasses every
+other. Later, rice-fields and tea plantations alternated, the latter
+even covering the sides of mountains. The scenery grew bolder as we went
+along, and at the Junction we took the narrow gauge for our mountain
+climb. This ascent was another triumph of engineering skill, winding
+around long and bold curves.
+
+Nuwara Eliya is located sixty-two hundred feet above the sea, but,
+surrounded by mountains, the country has the appearance of being a
+valley. The Grand Hotel, in bungalow style, is prettily located in well
+laid-out grounds, with a fine view. In the morning we drove to Hakgalla
+Botanical Garden, and on our way there we saw a striking feature in
+great masses of rhododendrons. The road to the gardens through an avenue
+of trees was inviting, and as we turned to the right we had a fine view
+of the west peak of the Hakgalla rock; passing on up the drive, we saw a
+large lake, the banks of which were lined with ornamental trees. There
+is here a pleasing vista of flowering plants, tall palms, and varied
+trees; we examined an immense tea plant twelve feet in diameter, a fine
+clump of tree ferns, and a peculiar silver fern from New Zealand,--also
+a wax palm from New Granada, the leaves of which are covered with a wax
+substance from which good candles can be made; and a fernery with
+twenty-six thousand plants. There is also a flower garden, a house for
+the propagation of plants, and a laboratory for scientific research,
+besides many other interesting features in this truly complete garden.
+
+We visited a tea factory, and an attendant showed us the entire process
+of preparation, even to the wrapping of the tea in packages. During the
+afternoon we drove to Ramboda Pass, six miles distant. From the top of
+the pass, six thousand feet high, there was a panoramic view of mountain
+scenery with the Katinale valley below and the gray-crested Peacock
+Mountain as a centrepiece. Nuwara Eliya is a famed summer resort, with
+beautiful walks, tennis, cricket, and social clubs; the English Church
+is finely located, with the usual well-kept close.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Nuwara Eliya_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+KANDY, _January 30th_: We left Nuwara Eliya, on the morning of January
+30th, for Kandy, arriving there at 2 P.M. The train passed through a
+country similar to that before described, only there was a greater
+descent, Kandy having less altitude than Nuwara Eliya. We had
+anticipated much of Kandy, Ceylon's ancient capital and the scene of
+action in the days of the old Kandyan kings. It is said that when Adam
+and Eve were banished from Paradise they repaired to Ceylon and located
+at Kandy, it being the nearest approach to Paradise. A few days' stay
+there sufficed to show us that the legend was partly justified.
+
+The city is situated in a valley with stretches of mountains on either
+side, a lake nestling in the centre of the place and in the midst of a
+perfect wealth of trees. Nature seemed to challenge our admiration.
+
+The afternoon drive to Peradeniya convinced us that the claim of one of
+the greatest botanical gardens in the world was well founded, for here
+we saw revelations in plants, shrubs, and trees, the new varieties of
+palms seeming wonderful. A talipot palm was in blossom, towering high to
+heaven, but we knew that its course was nearly ended, for when it
+attains about half a century of vitality it droops and dies; this seems
+a strange anomaly of Nature. Great groups of rubber trees (largely
+exported from Ceylon) and immense groups of tall bamboo trees were also
+in plenty.
+
+Kandy, in the Eastern world, derives its greatest renown from being the
+home of Buddha's tooth, and the Temple of the Tooth attracts great
+crowds of pilgrims of the Buddhist faith from many lands. It is said to
+have been brought here in the sixteenth century, and the small temple in
+which it was then placed has been enlarged and made a shrine where
+costly gifts are laid by devotees from China, Japan, the Malay
+Peninsula, Siam, and other remote points. Buddhism claims the larger
+portion of Ceylon's subjects, having in comparison with Hinduism a small
+following in India, where it originated. The tooth is said to be the
+left eye-tooth of Prince Siddhartha, taken from his ashes twenty-five
+centuries ago, but it is believed that the original tooth was burned by
+the Catholic Archbishop of Goa, Portugal, in 1650, and a spurious one
+substituted. However, it is worshipped as the real one, and the morning
+following our arrival, we attended the 9.30 service at the temple, where
+a crowd was in attendance, seemingly enjoying the hideous music of the
+tom-toms and instruments of a similar Oriental character. The tooth is
+not shown except on rare occasions, but through a glass door we saw its
+jewelled casket and the table on which it rests.
+
+[Illustration: _General view of Kandy_]
+
+There were many offerings before this relic and before other images of
+Buddha which are to be found presiding over all temples. Much
+superstition was evident, but the sacrifices and practices that are to
+be seen in the Hindu temples are here wanting. It is a sad reflection,
+however, that Buddha's noble teachings could not have borne better
+fruit.
+
+The library of the temple held many richly bound Buddhist books, written
+on leaves made from the talipot palm. The leaves bound together are long
+and narrow, and are held in place between heavy covers. The priests, as
+in Burma, wear a yellow silk robe draped like a Roman toga. They are
+seen everywhere, going about in the early morning with a begging bowl;
+they are ever courteous and apparently well bred. Cremation is
+practised, as with the Hindus, but the rites preceding it are far more
+imposing and cover days of peculiar ceremonies, while the Hindus
+practise almost immediate cremation. A visit to the Government art
+school and museum followed, and then a beautiful mountain drive where
+hill and valley alternated; the views were past description.
+
+In the afternoon we were permitted the courtesy of a visit to the
+Governor's residence, the family being absent. The grounds were large
+and well laid out; the rooms spacious and furnished with a view to
+comfort and to meet the requirements of the climate. We were interested
+in learning that the ex-Empress Eugenie and her suite were about to
+arrive to take up their residence for a time. A so-termed Lady Blake's
+drive followed. This was also largely a mountain ride with more fine
+views; but we surpassed ourselves on the following day in the tour we
+took, and our adjectives were soon exhausted; so it is natural that we
+should vote Ceylon the finest land we had thus far visited.
+
+Sunday was passed quietly; we attended a 6 A.M. service in the English
+Church, and saw a number of natives in attendance, ladies appearing in
+low dresses and with uncovered heads. They were richly clad; so it was
+evidently the custom, even though to us it seemed peculiar.
+
+[Illustration: _Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy_]
+
+[Illustration: _Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ANURADHAPURA: Monday, February 3d, we left Kandy to visit
+Anuradhapura.
+
+Before proceeding, it seems desirable to introduce an historical
+digression. The history of Ceylon is shrouded in mystery, but, from
+chronicles compiled by the early monks, a real foundation or beginning
+has been determined upon, proving that the Cingalese under Wigeyo
+invaded Ceylon in 543 B.C. and conquered the aborigines of the soil. It
+is deemed probable that they came from neighboring continents, and that
+their descendants possessed character and determination; that they were
+builders is shown by the erection of splendid edifices at an early date,
+and after the arrival of the royal Buddhist missionary, Mahindo (son of
+an Indian king), 306 B.C., fine dagobas and monasteries were added, each
+successive ruler seeming ambitious to excel his predecessor.
+
+Anuradhapura was the first capital, but owing to many vicissitudes and
+several invasions of the Malabars of Southern India, the capital was
+moved many times, Kandy being the sixth; it preceded Cotta, near
+Colombo, the latter being the present capital. In 1532, on the landing
+of the Portuguese at Colombo, the last blow was struck, and soon the
+great cities of the Empire were deserted and left in the hands of
+foreigners. The best dagobas were crumbling, immense tanks broken, and
+general devastation succeeded where splendor had long reigned. The
+annals of these centuries, the recital of the achievements and the
+failures of the various rulers, read like a romance, and it seems sad
+that a people thus endowed could not have retained their character and
+independence, although under English rule the island seems prosperous.
+
+The first mention of Kandy is at the beginning of the fourteenth
+century, when a temple was built to receive the sacred tooth and other
+ruins, the possession of which made it an important centre of the
+Buddhist religion and eventually a royal residence; it became the
+capital of the island in 1592. From that time until the final
+establishment of the English rule in 1803, it was repeatedly captured
+and burned by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the English; it
+consequently presents no architectural monuments nor any pretension to
+antiquity.
+
+But it has a better claim to the remembrance of posterity in the fact
+that for three hundred years it was the centre of the national movement
+to resist the aggressions of the foreigner. After the British occupation
+the King was allowed some authority, but owing to certain indignities
+offered to English subjects, war was declared in 1815, the King taken
+prisoner and transported to India, where he died in 1832. Ceylon has
+since been an English colony. The Kandyans are brave and fearless in
+appearance; they never wear the Cingalese comb, as this is a badge of
+the low country. The women dress differently from those in India.
+
+The city presents a wide field of interest for the archaeologist, and
+incidentally for the tourist. We were to have a new experience here, as
+we were to be housed in a "rest house," the term applied to a Government
+semi-hotel, usually of a simple description, but serving as a great
+convenience to Government officials in the many places throughout the
+English islands where there are no hotels. We found the one at
+Anuradhapura prettily located in a setting of green, with a garden in
+front. The present little town has a population of about three thousand,
+and is the capital of the north central province of Ceylon.
+
+[Illustration: _Ruins of Anuradhapura_]
+
+The tour of the ruins is divided into a consideration of the outer and
+inner circles, each comprising a drive of several miles. On the
+afternoon of our arrival we took the outer circle and went past towering
+ruined temples called dagobas, remains of palaces once spacious and
+imposing, long rows of stately columns covering a wide space, ruined
+towers, statues, some headless and some showing traces of their former
+skill, immense tanks, and remains of buildings of many descriptions
+which are awaiting the patient investigation of the archaeologist. Much
+in this line has already been done, and active work is now being carried
+forward on some of the dagobas, the contribution of Buddhistic pilgrims
+who come from far and near largely aiding the cause. There is also a
+local archaeological society which seeks to systematize the effort.
+
+The ride to the inner circle and the more distant points consumed
+another four hours, and an eight-mile excursion will later be alluded
+to. The special objects of interest may be mentioned, with an indication
+of what the ruins represent, as they may have general value. The sacred
+road is a feature of the place, for it is the pathway the pilgrims have
+trod for over two thousand years. The Thuparama is the oldest and most
+venerated of all the dagobas. The largest one is the Jaytawanarama,
+built about the close of the third century A.D. by King Mahicena. The
+height, including the pedestal, is two hundred and forty-nine feet, and
+its diameter three hundred and sixty feet; moreover, the contents of the
+dome of brickwork and the platform on which it stands are said to
+contain twenty million cubic feet. It is also stated that, with the
+facilities which modern inventions supply for economizing labor, the
+building of such a structure at present would take five hundred
+bricklayers from six to seven years, and would involve an expenditure of
+at least $5,000,000. Only the glory of the old outline is now left, and
+its four chapels have crumbled almost past recognition.
+
+[Illustration: _Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba_]
+
+Of interest is the Isurumuniya Temple, constructed by King
+Dewenipiatissa, 300 B.C. The temple is carved out, and circles around a
+formation of natural rock; its shrine is approached by two terraces, the
+steps being in a state of fine preservation. The outer wall of the upper
+terrace is ornamented with a remarkable series of seventeen mural
+frescos in low relief, the subjects being grotesque, and there is a
+large tablet on the south wall consisting of a group of three women, a
+man, and attendants. Close to the entrance of the shrine is a large
+sitting figure holding a horse, and carved out of the face of the rock
+are the heads of four elephants in low relief. The stone doorway is a
+fine specimen of carving, and the pillars which support the porch in
+front of it are beautifully proportioned. The temple has been restored.
+
+A priest's dwelling-house is near, and the priest was officiating at the
+shrine at the time of my visit. I was alone; he signified that I was to
+keep silent, and then offered up a prayer to Buddha in my behalf, for
+which I was doubtless expected to deposit a coin in a contribution box.
+As I did not disappoint the expectant priest, he courteously presented
+me with his card, and this is the name inscribed thereon:
+"Sangharakkhita Mahathera, the High Priest of the Isurumuni Vihara."
+Another interesting dagoba with a most unpronounceable name is now being
+restored through the pious contributions of pilgrims. The present height
+is one hundred and fifty feet, with a diameter of three hundred and
+seventy-nine feet. It was originally surrounded by two large paved
+platforms, the inner one being raised above the other. Around the outer
+wall there was originally a complete circle of elephants, each elephant
+being furnished with tusks of real ivory. The Moonstone Steps are finely
+preserved. There is still a striking frieze of lions running along the
+upper border of the platform, and around the base of the dagoba are five
+large upright statues and a small sitting one, the tallest said to be
+that of King Dutugemuna.
+
+There are wonderful tales told of miraculous work done through the
+celebrated bo-tree, a branch of the oldest historical tree in the world.
+It was planted two hundred and forty-five years before Christ, and its
+story has been handed down in a continuous series of authentic
+chronicles. This is believed by Buddhists to be a branch of the sacred
+bo-tree in Buddh Gaya, India, under which Prince Siddhartha sat on the
+day he attained Buddha-hood, this branch having been sent from India; it
+has been sacredly treated, enriched with stone carvings and braces, and
+honored with magnificent ceremonies by repeated dynasties; it has also
+been spared during the successive invasions of the land. The Chinese
+traveller and author, Fahiam, visited it in the fifth century, and has
+left an authentic record of it as well as of some buildings in this
+ruined city. There are fine columns and many remains of the King's
+palace still standing; in addition to which, the monasteries and tanks
+all show artistic skill.
+
+[Illustration: _The Moonstone Steps_]
+
+Perhaps a clearer idea of the former splendor may be had by a brief
+recital of what chroniclers and archaeologists prove to have been the
+plan of the Buddhist Brazen Temple, now a collection of sixteen hundred
+monolithic granite pillars, standing twelve feet from the ground and
+arranged in lines of forty each way; they cover a space measuring two
+hundred and thirty-one feet north to south and two hundred and
+thirty-two feet east to west. This formed the foundation of the great
+Brazen Temple, erected by King Dutugemuna in the second century B.C.
+These columns supported the building, nine stories in height, and
+containing one thousand dormitories for priests. The roof was of sheet
+copper, and the walls were embellished with beads which shone
+resplendent like gems. The great hall was supported on golden pillars
+resting on lions, and in the centre was an ivory throne with a golden
+sun and silver moon on either side, while above it glittered Imperial
+Chinta, the white canopy of dominion. It was destroyed, then rebuilt,
+and the second restoration occurred in the twelfth century, thus showing
+the vicissitudes which this and other ruins have passed through.
+
+The excursion to Mihintale, eight miles distant, was made alone with a
+guide, at six in the morning, the other members of the party preferring
+another excursion. The drive was mostly through what was termed a
+jungle, meaning a roadway cut through the forest and left in its natural
+state; hence there was a tangle of vines and underbrush, and the effect
+was very fine with the great variety which the tropical vegetation
+affords. Reaching our destination, we left the carriage for a walk of
+three quarters of a mile through a forest to the base of a mountain from
+which ascends eighteen hundred and sixty-four wide marble steps, divided
+into four flights, with a landing for each, paths leading to the left or
+right of the landings to some object of interest.
+
+The stairs were not difficult but rather continuous, as we found before
+we reached the top. In the middle of the last flight was a narrow path
+leading to the snakes' bathing-place; this is formed out of solid rock
+and measures about one hundred and thirty feet in length. At the back
+the five-headed cobra has been carved in high relief; it is seven feet
+high and is represented as rising from the water. The sanctity of the
+mountain-top in the eyes of Buddhists is said to be due to the fact that
+on the summit alighted the royal missionary, Mahahindo, when he came
+from India, 307 B.C.; he there met the King, who was out hunting, and
+having listened to a discourse, the King became an ardent Buddhist, a
+fact which later resulted in the conversion of forty thousand of his
+followers.
+
+[Illustration: _Mihitale Steps_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CEYLON: The Ambustala dagoba now marks the spot of the meeting. It is
+built of stone, the terrace around it consisting of numerous columns.
+There are ruined statues, columns, and carved capitals scattered about,
+showing that formerly this was the basis for a group of buildings. There
+are also oblong cuttings in the rock, supposed to be the foundation of
+cave dwellings never completed. One more flight of stairs leads up to
+the gallery, surrounding the Mahaseya dagoba. The view from this highest
+gallery is magnificent; the great plain gave a wide vista, while beyond
+was an outline of the distant mountain range; nearer we saw great masses
+of green, through which shone the three great dagobas of Anuradhapura.
+
+Before leaving the summit we held a conversation with the aged priest
+through an interpreter, and, retracing our steps, drove to the rest
+house for a ten-o'clock breakfast made up of coffee and rolls; then,
+returning to our temporary home in Anuradhapura, we pronounced the
+morning's excursion a success.
+
+In the afternoon we took a drive with a guide through the inner circle,
+when there occurred the incident with the priest previously related.
+
+At 6 A.M. the following day, we returned to Colombo, and again enjoyed
+the tropical vegetation, the views of mountain and valley, of rice and
+tea plantations, and the glimpse of native life which the short stay at
+stations afforded. Time thus passed in the mountains and country of
+Ceylon is indeed fraught with delight. We had an object lesson in the
+habits and customs of the so-called hill-country, Kandy furnishing many
+marked examples; there was particularly the large two-wheeled cart with
+oxen as propelling power. We were also interested in the Rodiyas, living
+in the outskirts, a people oppressed on account of a curse pronounced by
+a king many years ago, one of the conditions being the prohibition of
+clothes above the waist, both for men and women. The latter are noted
+for their beauty, and excel as singers and dancers, but they suffer
+under the stigma of immodesty for the reason given above.
+
+Three restful days followed; the hotel wore a homelike air, and the time
+was full of content and quiet enjoyment. Ceylon fascinated me from the
+first, and after the trip to the mountains and a more perfect
+realization of the natural advantages of the island, the impression
+deepened.
+
+The native people also struck me as being cheerful, but with more
+strength of character than the Burmese, and possessing a certain kind
+of dignity that was pleasing. The bazars too were found unusually
+interesting on a closer inspection, and offered many new and novel
+articles.
+
+[Illustration: _Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon_]
+
+While there were carriage drives, this was our first introduction to the
+jinrikishas, and we found them most convenient and a novelty; only there
+was an uncomfortable feeling that the jinrikisha man in Ceylon was too
+slight for his occupation.
+
+The street scenes presented almost as cosmopolitan an aspect as those at
+Rangoon, and with quite as varied a mixture of nationality.
+
+There was a notable carriage drive of eight miles to Mt. Lavinia, a
+seaside resort with only a hotel perched on a hill, while below on the
+sandy beach were many fishing-boats. Here we whiled away an hour, and
+had afternoon tea.
+
+On Saturday evening, February 8th, we bade adieu to Ceylon, taking
+passage on the steamer _Delhi_ of the P. & O. line, which was to be our
+home until the 14th. We were assigned pleasant rooms, and the general
+environment was agreeable. There was little of incident on the trip
+until we landed at Penang, Malay peninsula, on the morning of the 13th.
+We made a special tour, and noted many beautiful homes with surrounding
+grounds and a general air of thrift. We were once more reminded of Great
+Britain's supremacy in the Far East; it is surprising, the vast amount
+of colonizing, as well as civilizing, she has accomplished.
+
+In Penang, Chinamen were everywhere seen and Chinese business houses
+predominated. The Malay was, however, to be found as he should be on the
+Malay peninsula. At first it was difficult for us to realize that we had
+left the East, Penang being the portal of the Far East, of which
+Singapore is the gateway, her harbor being a famous shipping point.
+
+At 11 A.M. we were sailing on for that port, which is regarded as the
+Paris of the Far East by the wealthy nabobs who frequent the city. The
+Chinese coolie who officiated as jinrikisha man was a sturdier specimen
+of humanity than the one seen at Colombo, and we could enjoy a ride
+without the conscientious scruples experienced at the former place.
+
+Arriving at Singapore, we found we must postpone our visit there, as the
+steamer _Rembrandt_, of the Dutch line, was soon to leave for Java.
+
+It was late in the afternoon when we sailed from Singapore; we caught
+some glimpses of the shore and noted the finest group of the traveller's
+palm we had as yet seen; also some pretty bungalow homes close to the
+water's edge, with tiny gardens enclosing palms and flowers.
+
+[Illustration: _The canal in the old city of Batavia_]
+
+There was scarcely a ripple to be detected, and the elements were
+hushed; the brilliant rays of the setting sun shed a halo over the
+peaceful landscape.
+
+We imagined there must be some premonition of the event which was to
+take place in the night, namely, the passing of the equatorial line; and
+we tried to keep our senses alert in order not to miss the subtle
+significance of so unusual an event, but in the morning there was the
+humiliating reflection that sleep had "won the day"! At noon we began to
+realize that we were at Summer's door and would soon learn the true
+quality of the tropical heat, of which we had had as yet only a prelude.
+
+The Java Sea was as placid as the Strait of Malacca had been, and there
+was little to break the monotony save a passing steamer, a glimpse of
+Sumatra's shore, and an occasional island. Another night passed, and in
+the morning we were at the harbor of Tandjong Priok, which is nine miles
+from the city of Batavia. We arrived there in a pouring rain; we were
+now in a land where rain is prevalent, this being the wet monsoon
+season.
+
+After a very slight custom-house inspection was completed, we left by
+train for Batavia, one of the capitals of Java. We were at once
+impressed with the variety of the landscape and the tropical richness of
+the trees and shrubs. The Dutch aspect of the architecture and the
+canals were evidence of the influence of the fatherland, but the natives
+seemed to be a mixture of Javanese and Malays, while the Chinese, as
+elsewhere, were to be seen in large numbers.
+
+The canals are the principal feature of the old city of Batavia; but
+along the streets one detects also many business houses and banks, some
+of the largest being Chinese.
+
+The Hotel des Indes is located in the new city called Werengen. On
+entering the enclosure which surrounds the hotel, a large banyan tree
+was the central object directly in front of the hotel proper, situated
+nearly in the centre of a square.
+
+On three sides of the square are arranged a continuous series of
+one-story suite of rooms opening in front on a wide veranda, shut off
+from the adjacent suite by screens of stained glass and shaded by glass
+and awnings. This was the salon of the suite, furnished with rugs,
+chairs, centre table, and writing-desk. Here all waking hours are
+supposed to be passed. The largest homes of the residents are similarly
+arranged; such an exterior forms the large drawing-room, often
+beautifully furnished. It all seemed new and novel to us, but the climax
+was reached when we saw even matrons on exhibition in these show boxes,
+dressed in loose jackets, sarongs drawn closely around them, and their
+bare feet simply encased in sandals; also stout Dutchmen in pajamas, and
+sometimes this costume was worn in the dining-room with the utmost
+unconcern, showing how customs vary in different countries.
+
+[Illustration: _Batavia, Java_]
+
+The charming bungalow homes in the new city, surrounded by spacious
+grounds, pleased us, as did the business houses; some fronting on canals
+which were spanned by artistic bridges. The Museum of the Batavian
+Society of Arts and Sciences was rich in exhibits of Sumatra's and
+Borneo's products and handwork, as well as in Javanese antiquities and
+in articles of silver and gold workmanship, which were novel in design
+and skilfully executed. The building is classic in its lines and very
+pleasing.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_February 18th_: An early train, 6 A.M., for Buitenzorg gave us the
+freshness of the morning for travel, and the two hours thus consumed
+were filled with exclamations of delight over the beauty of the scenery.
+Soon after our arrival at the Hotel Belle Vue, we drove to the Botanical
+Gardens, where, like Peradeniya in Ceylon, a revelation awaited us.
+Masses of pink lotus, white lilies, Victoria Regia, and other varieties
+of the lily family formed great patches of color on the miniature ponds
+that were their setting. Orchids in greenhouses and on trees put forth
+their graceful flowers; palms of every description, candle trees with
+myriads of almost realistic candles which were suspended from the
+branches, sausage trees with veritable bolognas hanging from the limbs,
+bread-fruit trees, lovely vistas of the graceful banana, and groups of
+other foliage or shrubs surrounded us in abundance.
+
+The Governor's spacious residence looks out upon the park on one side,
+and a pretty summer-house overlooking a valley gave a picturesque touch
+to the place.[4] The ride around the city showed lovely homes set in
+varied greens, and a general air of thrift and prosperity prevailed.
+
+The hotel is charmingly located and has pleasant features. It fronts on
+a garden, with a wide gallery overlooking the city. A square court in
+the rear is encircled by a series of rooms, with the front gallery
+looking on the court, and the back gallery facing a valley (the house is
+built on a side hill) through which runs a river with a tiny village on
+its border; while beyond a wide vista of cocoanut palms rises a range of
+mountains, Mt. Salak being the distinctive feature. Both galleries are
+well furnished, and here guests assemble when in the hotel. The view
+from the rear gallery I have never seen surpassed in breadth, except
+perhaps by that in Granada, when from Miss Laird's balcony (near the
+Alhambra) we looked down upon the city, with the mountains beyond.
+
+[Illustration: _View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue_]
+
+The Javanese view was enjoyed for hours, as a heavy rain prevented our
+afternoon ride, and the letters that should have been written were
+somewhat neglected, owing to the view described.
+
+One shrinks at being called at four o'clock in the morning, at having
+breakfast at five, and at taking a train at six, but such was our
+experience on February 19th. One leaves Buitenzorg for Garoet as the
+first streak of dawn appears; as we sped along, we realized more and
+more what tropical vegetation and abundant rain could produce, for the
+vivid greens and dewy freshness of the foliage surpassed even Ceylon's
+landscape, which in its turn had surpassed anything before seen, even
+our own South and Southern California not excepted; Java is indeed the
+garden of the world! With remote mountain views on either side of us and
+nearer aspects of palms and trees bearing names unknown, there were
+interspersed rice plantations, unlike the flat fields of Burma,
+cultivated in terraces rising one above the other on hilly slopes. An
+occasional tea plantation lay here and there, and some traces of coffee
+plantations; the cultivation of the bean has been partly abandoned
+owing to the blight about ten years since.
+
+As the train climbed upward, our destination being Garoet, two thousand
+feet above the sea-level, the scenery grew less marked, but we were
+still encircled by the Gedeh Mountain range. The great Garoet plain
+consists of wide level stretches and extended rice-fields, less marked
+by terraces than those we had seen before; therein is situated the
+quaint village of Garoet, a favorite hill resort, where we found the
+noted Hotel van Horck with its reputation for neatness and restful
+hospitality. The one-story building has suites of rooms looking out on a
+spacious garden, conventional in style, with its wealth of trees,
+shrubs, and flowers, also busts and statues. A large oval bed of
+brilliant crotons on one side of the garden, and another foliage bed
+that formed the base of a pyramidal vase on the other side, were
+especially admired.
+
+The pretty little village of Garoet seemed to breathe a spirit of
+contentment, and it is quite a resort for people from a lower altitude.
+It is also the starting-point for various excursions, some of which we
+took, but the daily rains proved an obstacle. The afternoon of our
+arrival we drove to a pretty lake, but a sudden rain prevented a sail to
+the island in an exceedingly quaint little kiosk, which rests on two
+long boats. The bad weather also prevented a visit to the Hot Springs,
+where baths of a rather primitive character are furnished.
+
+[Illustration: _A village scene in Garoet, Java_]
+
+The most noted excursion is to the crater of Papandajang. We departed on
+this quest, about five in the morning, driving eleven miles to the rest
+house at Tjiseroepan, where ponies and sedan chairs were furnished for
+the ascent, a distance of about six miles. Four of our party selected
+saddle horses, and four preferred sedan chairs (I took the latter). The
+chairs are carried by four men, two in front and two in the back,
+supporting on their shoulders long bamboo poles on which the sedan is
+placed. They were similar to those used in the ascent of Tiger Hill, at
+Darjeeling, but seemed to be more like palanquins, for one could half
+recline therein.
+
+The ascent once begun, our eyes were riveted first on one side of the
+narrow roadway and then on the other, so diversified was the view: first
+patches of bananas, then palms and bamboo which formed an archway. Such
+was the continued landscape, while intervening spaces were devoted to
+the cultivation of coffee. The chichona plant, from which quinine is
+made, was also seen, and one or two patches of tea plantations. A
+picturesque feature of this ride was a double hedge made of two rows of
+bamboo poles with an occasional horizontal support, between which were
+vines, low palms, and unknown plants; as we ascended farther low ferns
+formed a fringe at the base of the hedge. Never have I seen anything
+lovelier than this trellis of Nature, which extended about half-way up
+the ascent; then the way grew narrower and we were in the real jungle.
+Here surprising wonders awaited us, towering palms and other trees,
+vines and giant ferns, some of which had taken root in crevices of a
+tall palm, producing a round basket effect. This was three times
+repeated on the trunks of several palms, a stray seed having, perhaps,
+settled there. It seemed to me as though the palm, if it could, would
+utter a protest.
+
+The higher we went, the larger and more varied grew the ferns. There had
+been flowers all the way--wild phlox, the primrose, the creeping
+periwinkle, and white and red dentura, together with many trees of
+brilliant foliage similar in color to our Autumn tints. There was also a
+very tall bush with clusters of bright yellow blossoms, in size much
+like our wild rose. When nearer the crater, the trees became small and
+the vegetation more sparse, until we reached the point where we left our
+chairs and commenced our final ascent, about one quarter of a mile, over
+broken pieces of lava. Then we arrived at the halting-point and gazed on
+the near crater, inhaling the sulphurous fumes, hearing the rumble, and
+seeing the clouds of vapor as they issued forth, with a mixture of
+bright yellow sulphur. The volcano is now inactive, the last eruption
+having taken place in 1772, when forty villages were destroyed. At this
+time the side of the crater towards us was broken. It is altogether a
+fine spectacle.
+
+[Illustration: _The crater of Papandajang_]
+
+Having partaken of our breakfast at ten-thirty, we prepared for our
+descent, when, alas! a pouring rain set in, and as the slight covering
+of the sedan chair afforded little protection, there was no avoiding a
+thorough wetting. We had thought of the fine views we would have in our
+descent, and were now glad of the occasional backward glances we had
+taken during our upward climb. These were fine, of great breadth,
+embracing distant mountains, nearer ones, and an occasional plain which
+is a characteristic feature of a Java landscape. The descent was very
+steep in places, and the footing of the men was rather uncertain; hence
+it was a relief when the task was accomplished. We viewed some new
+features every now and then, a noticeable one being a group of twelve
+very large banyan trees of the variety known as Werengen in a field near
+the rest house; their white gnarled trunks and limbs suggested the
+forest primeval.
+
+The next morning we drove twelve miles to Leles, past the broad Leles
+plain, and nearly all the way through a shaded avenue of trees, at times
+forming a natural archway. The lake was most picturesque, with its
+three islands and varied shore line. On one side there was a small
+cultivated mountain sloping to the water's edge. A heavy rain prevented
+the afternoon excursion.
+
+We left Garoet on February 22nd, for almost a day's railroad journey to
+Djokjakarta.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DJOKJAKARTA, _February 22nd_: We arrived at Djokjakarta on Saturday,
+February 22nd, at 4 P.M. A drive followed, showing us an older and
+prettier place than Garoet, with a large Chinese quarter, in which the
+shops lacked much attraction.
+
+The Sultan's palace was pointed out; it was by no means imposing. We saw
+his elephants, but declined to enter the enclosure where the tigers were
+confined. Some of the houses were Dutch in style; others were Javanese
+of the one-story bungalow type, with open fronts. Early the following
+day, at 6 A.M.., we drove to the ruined temple of Prambanam, and nine
+miles from Djokjakarta, we visited Chandi Kalasan ("chandi" means a
+mausoleum), a beautiful ruin, unfortunately too dilapidated to afford
+much satisfaction, but from the remains that have been found
+archaeologists base their belief that it was incomparably beautiful in
+conception and workmanship. We also went to another temple, Chandi Sewo,
+about half a mile distant, which also showed marks of great beauty.
+We drove on, perhaps a mile farther, and came to a wonderful group of
+temples, dating about the same period, known as Prambanam, where we saw
+what excited our wonder and admiration. Though the ruins did not contain
+a single genuine Buddha figure, holding only many images of Hindu gods,
+archaeologists find ample proof that they were built by Buddhists (they
+have been called Hindu temples).
+
+[Illustration: _The ruined temple of Prambanam_]
+
+[Illustration: _Bas-reliefs in the Siva Temple, Prambanam_]
+
+[Illustration: _The stairs leading to a Prambanam temple_]
+
+Time will not, however, permit an elucidation of them further than to
+state that Dr. Gronneman, a celebrated writer and archaeologist and an
+accepted authority, believes that a number of monuments and bo-trees
+have within a few years been hewn out around the base of each of the
+temples, these being covered with the traditional parasols; many of the
+dagoba-shaped bells have also been found,--a symbol of the tree under
+which Prince Siddhartha attained Buddha-hood. Dr. Gronneman also calls
+them Prambanam. The ruins form a group of eight temples or
+chandis,--three greater and three lesser ones in two parallel rows,--the
+former on the west, the latter on the east side of the spacious square,
+with two smaller ones at the ends. These were doubtless mausolea built
+over the ashes of princes or chiefs. The temples were probably
+constructed toward the end of the eighth century, and unfinished
+sculptures show that the work was stopped before completion. It is
+stated that possibly this may have been caused by the overthrow of the
+Empire at that time. There are two flights of stairs on each side, the
+lower leading to a landing which is raised a few feet above the terrace,
+but in the corners between the stairs and the wall of the basement are
+miniature temples of exquisite workmanship, the front and side walls of
+which had niches, each containing a high-relief figure of a man or a
+woman. The upper flight of stairs (three sides lead to the entrance to
+three chapels with pyramidal roofs of their own) have suffered much
+devastation.
+
+The largest of the temples has a broken image of Siva, more than life
+size. This, together with the nature of the bas-reliefs, has caused
+archaeologists to name it the Siva Temple. In like manner the second
+temple has been called Brahma, and the third Vishnu, thus including the
+Indian triumvirate of gods. On the upper walls of the basements of all
+the principal temples are several series of sculptures, each following
+one division of the wall. Most of the niches contain small lions with
+curled manes, while some in the projecting part of the wall have three
+heavenly nymphs standing in a stately manner with arms interlaced. A
+series of sculptures which has been preserved almost intact on the inner
+side of the parapet wall of the Siva Temple is a repetition of the first
+part of the Rama legend as told in the Indian epic, "Ramayana," and it
+is thought that the corresponding series of the other temples may have
+represented the sequel to that history. A ponderous cornice richly
+ornamented, which is now almost gone, runs over this series of
+sculptures. Another series was found on the walls of the temple itself a
+few feet higher than the terrace, and still higher up there is a more
+continuous series, but the arches and figures are lost in the almost
+general wreck which time and the elements have wrought. Only a hint of
+the character of these ruins has been given, but with the aid of the
+illustrations, some idea of them, of their entire beauty, as well as of
+the imposing majesty of the sculptures, may be gained. The Loro Jonggram
+Temple has a celebrated bas-relief in an elaborate niche, called the
+"Three Graces."
+
+[Illustration: _The Three Graces in the Lara Jongram Temple, Java_]
+
+About a quarter of a mile distant from the Prambanam there is another
+group of temples covering the largest circumference of any other group
+in the region. The principal temple, much surpassing the others in size,
+stood on a raised rectangular terrace, enclosed by a low wall with a
+gateway in the middle of each side. A little lower there were
+twenty-eight temples forming a rectangular enclosure, and another more
+spacious court was enclosed by forty-four temples. There was a still
+larger rectangular terrace with eighty temples, and a lower terrace
+with eighty-eight temples, making two hundred and forty in all; hence,
+by exaggeration, the name, "One Thousand Temples." Each of the temples,
+which diminish in size, forms a square with a little approach and small
+_steos_ leading to the inner room. The largest temple of the group was
+rich in detail and sculpture designs, which, like the Prambanam group,
+relate to the Indian triumvirate, Siva, Brahma, and Vishnu, with the
+same evidences, however, as to Buddhist origin. There were still other
+ruined temples in the vicinity which could not be visited, but we drove
+back the nine miles to Djokjakarta, feeling that we had had a rich
+morning's experience and also deeply impressed with the labor, patience,
+and skill which these ruins represented.
+
+We arrived at the Hotel Mataram in time for luncheon in the pleasant
+open dining-room, leading to a garden filled with trees, from whose
+branches were suspended orchids of various hues. February 24th was the
+date fixed for a trip of twelve miles by carriage to the Buddhist
+temple, Boro Boedor, but the late rains of the monsoon season had
+carried away a bridge that must be crossed; hence a grave doubt arose as
+to whether we would be able to go. Our enthusiasm, however, led us to
+take the risk, with the result that on reaching the scene of the wreck
+we found an improvised footbridge and another train awaiting us on the
+opposite side. Our railway journey terminated, we took a carriage for a
+drive of several miles, stopping on our way at the old temple of
+Mendoet, small but very perfect in its construction, with fine
+bas-reliefs and large architectural ornaments; also some immense savage
+gargoyles, which were especially noticeable.
+
+[Illustration: _The old temple at Mendoet_]
+
+We ascended the stairs to the inner room, where was a large-sized figure
+of Buddha, with the attendant figures at each side called his sons,
+Buddhavista, meaning "future Buddhas." Driving on, we came to another
+missing bridge. Here we were taken across on a rude raft, the carriage
+following, and then the horses. As we drew near Boro Boedor, a feeling
+of awe came over us, for we were to behold a temple which for centuries
+had been buried from the sight of man. Indeed, until the debris of time
+was removed, after English occupation in 1811, not a hint of its
+existence even had been known. This work was undertaken by Sir Stamford
+Raffles before the cession of Java to the Dutch in 1816, and carried on,
+aided by eminent archaeologists. Much has been done by the Government and
+by an Archaeologist Society since 1885, and at the time we were there it
+was said that about one thousand workmen were employed on the temple.
+
+The approach being over a hill, the view of the temple is suddenly
+disclosed, but from the rest house we had a side glimpse. This is
+confusing at first, and the structure seems too broad for the height,
+thus lacking in impressiveness; but as one approaches and the huge mass
+takes on color and expression, with the many-sided pyramids of dark gray
+stone, the mass of cupolas, spires, and walls surrounded by a high
+central dome, the impression taken altogether becomes almost
+overpowering. It is a structure difficult to describe, but a few
+outlines with the aid of the illustrations may give you some idea at
+least of its size and impressiveness.
+
+First, it is not a building in the ordinary sense and has no entrance.
+It is the top of a hill, artificially lowered and encircled with
+galleries built by human hands. The lowest terrace, which is shown in
+the picture, forms the upper portion of a terrace wall, which is still
+submerged below the soil. This terrace has thirty-six sides, measuring
+three hundred and seventy-four feet in diameter. Below is a larger
+terrace, square in shape, estimated at five hundred feet; it is
+underground, while above it is another of the same shape as the middle
+terrace, from which it is reached by stairways on each of the four
+sides. Some years ago it was discovered that three terraces were of a
+later date than the original internal structure, which is more slender
+in shape, and that they were constructed in order to support the latter
+when it began to show signs of settling. The base of the lower terrace
+has been exposed in places in order to obtain photographs of the
+beautiful bas-reliefs, but it was subsequently covered, inasmuch as it
+would have been a grave mistake to run the risk of leaving it
+permanently exposed.
+
+The building above the three terraces consists of four parapeted
+galleries, erected upon the internal walls of the lower gallery, and of
+four upper terraces, the three highest of which are circular. The
+topmost terrace is crowned by a large cupola, or dagoba. The Boro
+Boedor, from its base to the top of the cupola, has a height of
+ninety-seven feet, while the elevation of the hill to the lower step is
+about fifty-five feet, making a total of one hundred and fifty-two feet.
+Each of the lower galleries is about seven feet wide, the walls on
+either side being lined with sculptures which, if they could be extended
+in a line, would cover three miles. We walked around the galleries and
+ascended the steps.
+
+In the lower gallery there is, beneath every Buddha, a representation of
+a man, on either side of which are groups of three figures, each bearing
+lotus flowers and fans.
+
+The inner circle of the second gallery contains, in the upper row,
+bas-reliefs representing scenes connected with the history of Prince
+Siddhartha (Gautama) from his infancy to the period when he attained
+Nirvana.
+
+The third gallery wall contains one hundred and eighty bas-reliefs,
+depicting the apotheosis of Buddha. The fourth, in eighty different
+scenes, pictures the rewards given to kings who have been Buddha
+worshippers, while the fifth contains a large number of images of Buddha
+and of two kings, probably the founders of the temple. Other bas-reliefs
+that are interspersed represent fanciful subjects and scenes from life
+or are illustrations of legends; one of the latter deals with the
+turtle, which is regarded as sacred by all true Buddhists.
+
+Staircases ascend from gallery to gallery in a straight line on each of
+four sides. These have pointed arches with carved keystones, and
+formerly were guarded by heavy banisters and carved lions. The parapeted
+walls of the galleries were once decorated with four hundred and
+thirty-two niches, each with three turrets, and contained four hundred
+and thirty-two life-sized Buddhas, seated on lotus cushions.
+
+[Illustration: _Boro Boedor, in Java_]
+
+[Illustration: _Stairway of Boro Boedor, Java_]
+
+[Illustration: _Boro Boedor, Java, showing one part of the gallery_]
+
+The three upper circular terraces are individually adorned with
+thirty-two, twenty-four, and sixteen openwork bell-shaped cupolas, or
+dagobas, each containing a Buddha in sitting posture. Inside this circle
+rises the central dagoba of huge, imposing dimensions, the final crown
+to the whole structure. This is modelled after the same type as the
+smaller ones, but its walls rise perpendicularly from the base, which
+has the form of a huge lotus cushion in a beautiful frame, and ends at
+the top in a slightly rounded dome rising at least twenty-seven feet
+above the highest terrace. Of the cone which formerly surrounded this
+dagoba nothing is left except part of the pedestal, a stone block
+afterwards fashioned into a seat five feet high by ten feet broad. This
+is reached by some rough stone steps. The cupola, or dagoba, was at one
+time entirely closed, but when opened some years ago it was found to
+contain a large unfinished figure of Buddha.
+
+Our party climbed to the seat alluded to, and what a view presented
+itself!--a wide valley or plain, miles in extent, surrounded by the
+towering Minoch mountains in the distance, with lesser mountains
+seemingly as foothills, but nevertheless some of them volcanic craters;
+villages almost concealed by the masses of foliage, with whole tracts of
+palms and masses of green,--and all bathed in the glorious sunlight. We
+sat spellbound, and finally descended the long flight of stairs feeling
+we had had a morning's experience which never could be repeated. In the
+words of Dr. Gronneman (to whom we owe a debt of gratitude for his
+explanations), "upwards of a thousand years have since rolled over the
+Boro Boedor; earthquakes and ash showers have disjointed its walls, and
+rank vegetation has disintegrated its foundation, ... and shortsighted
+fanatics have defaced its works of art, but still the ruin stands there,
+an imposing fact, a powerful creation of the thinking mind, an epic in
+stone, immortal even in its decadence."
+
+We walked to the pleasant rest house, called Passagrahan, for our
+luncheon. Soon the rain which had threatened us fell in torrents, but
+neither this fact nor any other obstacle dimmed our enthusiasm as we
+sped on our homeward way. To prove my own absorption in the day's
+programme I would state that I amused the party on our arrival at the
+train by saying to our Malay servant, "Buddha, will you take my wrap?"
+his name being Pandox.
+
+The next morning I drove about Djokjakarta in search of photographs and
+found the place much more attractive than I had supposed. One long
+avenue of trees in particular impressed me; on alternate sides were the
+tamarind and the canary tree, forming a perfect arch overhead. This
+continued for a long way, and there were various other shaded streets
+that attracted my attention.
+
+Djokjakarta is a place of importance, the capital of a native State; the
+Sultan preserves some semblance of power and lives in regal style,
+keeping up all the ceremonials of his high office. This was one of the
+last provinces to yield to Dutch rule. There is a Dutch resident to
+whom the Sultan must pay deference and from whom he accepts advice. We
+did not see the Sultan, but we saw four sons of his out driving, dressed
+in red and each carrying a red silk umbrella, the emblem of royalty.
+
+[Illustration: _A public square in Djokjakarta, Java_]
+
+The life at Djokjakarta is much like that of old Java, and the peasants
+are said to be of a higher type than those corresponding to the coolie
+class in India and Ceylon, many of this class in Java being Sudanese.
+There are several strains of blood in Java, and a mixture of Arab
+ancestry with Mohammedan faith; for centuries, Java passed through many
+transitions, and it would be interesting to trace her history backward.
+
+Djokjakarta being but twelve miles from the Indian Ocean, the heat is
+never oppressive, and the breezes from sea and mountain produce an
+agreeable temperature, as I found one morning, much to my delight. The
+bazars were not enticing, but there were various attractive articles for
+sale at the hotel,--cardcases made with tiny feathers, portemonnaies,
+woven baskets, and, above all, sarongs, the product of a large factory
+near by, which has been fostered by English and Dutch women as a kind of
+philanthropy for the teaching and employment of girls, as the
+"manageress" at the hotel explained to us. These sarongs are four and a
+half yards long by one and one-half wide, the fabric, though heavier,
+being similar to calico. The patterns are quite artistic, and the
+process of designing, drawing, stamping, and weaving is complicated.
+
+The Water Castle was formerly like a summer-house in an Oriental garden,
+with its underground chambers and all manner of appliances for luxurious
+ease. It has now fallen into decay; the aqueducts and fountains are
+stilled; the statues are covered with moss, and the gardens are a
+perfect tangle. It was the device of a Portuguese architect of a century
+ago.
+
+The streets were less crowded in Djokjakarta than one would expect in a
+city which ranks the fifth in Java; everywhere there were groups of
+really happy-faced children, and mothers looking like mere girls, with
+infants carried usually on the left hip, sometimes in a sling over the
+shoulders. In Java, as in other countries we have visited, there is no
+middle-aged class among the women; they are either young or old,
+although in reality not old. One is considerably handicapped in Java
+unless Dutch or the dialect can be spoken, for, in learning from others
+the true inwardness of things, we are powerless without language,
+however much we might supply certain physical needs by the use of
+pantomime.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MAOS, _February 25th_: At 2 P.M. on the 25th of February, we took the
+train for Maos, in order to break the long railway journey to Batavia.
+The ride of three and a half hours carried us through the same
+diversified landscape of fertile fields or plains of rice, palms, and
+bamboo, with mountains in the distance. One feature, however, deserves
+special mention; it was a country roadway, visible at frequent intervals
+for at least two hours, and lined on each side with tall trees which met
+in many arches. This was evidently a highway or postroad, worthy of
+emulation in other lands, and planned by the Government, a veritable
+blessing to man and beast.
+
+[Illustration: _Designing sarongs in Batavia_]
+
+We passed a comfortable night in Maos at the Government rest house,
+Staats, and left at the early hour of 6 A.M. for a return journey to
+Batavia. We found that when we reached a junction, our train diverged
+over a new route, giving us a different outlook, not unlike our first
+experience, but, it seemed, with finer mountain scenery. First we
+climbed to an altitude of about twenty-two hundred feet; then gradually
+descended, our objective point, Batavia, being at sea-level. Many of the
+high mountains showed cultivation to the very top, while the plains with
+their alternate groups of bamboo, cocoanut, and other palms, were green
+with the new rice crop, the cultivation of this commodity being
+different in Java from that in Burma. Great care is expended on the
+culture of the rice, the tiny plants first being put in small wet
+enclosures; then, when sufficiently developed, they are planted
+separately by the small army of workers, in receptacles made for them,
+and set with the greatest regularity. The workers consist usually of
+women or young girls, and the varied colors of their dress--or
+undress--presented a marked feature. We also saw more coffee cultivated
+than on any previous route, and it is to be regretted that the blight of
+ten years ago has taken this old form of industry from the Javanese.
+Strange as it may seem, we had no Java coffee in Java, the land of the
+celebrated brand; nor did we see anything but a very strong extract of
+coffee (to which was added a large quantity of milk), good and
+convenient, no doubt, but not at all like the real article.
+
+We arrived in Batavia during the afternoon; the hotel wore a homelike
+air, and we passed a restful twenty-four hours with only a drive as the
+regular programme. I have already treated of the marked natural
+advantages of Java, and of the temples; too much cannot be said of this
+"Garden of the East," with its varied landscape of alternating mountains
+and plains, its wealth of trees in myriad forms, its shrubs which in
+their luxuriance seem tree-like, and its tangle of vines and blossoming
+flowers. But it appeared to me as if this holiday side of nature and the
+workaday aspect of the life in Java did not harmonize, and I wondered if
+this condition was caused by Dutch thrift being grafted on to the
+native Javanese temperament, which in its incipiency was simple and
+disinclined to much exertion. Certain it is that the women of Java,
+while apparently contented, look careworn and have deep lines in their
+faces, and the perfect cultivation of the soil,[5] which is largely done
+by women, shows that constant toil must be required of them. Added to
+this is the care of a bevy of little ones--more infants to the square
+yard than I had ever seen before.
+
+[Illustration: _Landscape near Batavia_]
+
+These true children of Nature are seemingly trusting and believing, and
+they ask no better fate than they have. The question obtrudes itself,
+Would life have been easier if the English had not again ceded Java to
+Holland in 1816, after only a five years' tenure? This query regarding
+the Orient in general also comes up: Is it better to leave the peoples
+undisturbed in their ignorance of the broader life and higher
+conditions, or to try to teach them ways foreign to their
+nature,--efforts which might end in failure? This is the problem that
+confronts the philanthropist at every turn, and were it not for the
+possibility of alleviating the condition of womanhood, it might be well
+to abandon all charitable effort. Scientists believe, nevertheless, that
+while it will be a slow, laborious process, much can be done in time;
+it behooves us who have our homes in a country where it is a pleasure to
+live not to turn a deaf ear to appeals like that made by Ramabai, who at
+Pina, near Bombay, is laboring to uplift the condition of child widows
+in India. The great volume of missionary effort is also turned in the
+same direction, and through schools and hospitals the social workers are
+paving the way toward better conditions, in spite of the criticism of
+some who derisively speak of the failure to "save souls," without
+thinking that the first step is to emancipate the body.
+
+When I regard the condition of the women of the Orient, I feel like
+starting an immediate crusade--in Egypt they are slaves or toys; in
+India, bound by the iron laws of custom and caste, sad and dejected; in
+Burma, happy because independent on business and property lines, thanks
+to the English Government; in Ceylon, cheerful but with no recognized
+positions; in Java, children of toil; in Siam, fearless and intrepid in
+temperament, but subject to the conditions of the Orient; in China,
+Manchuria, and Korea, seemingly impassive but bound by traditional
+customs, enforced for centuries; in Japan, bright and winsome, true
+children of Nature, still held by the customs of years, however much the
+barriers are being broken down by the progressive policy of the country.
+
+[Illustration: _Javanese vegetable sellers_]
+
+As tourists remaining but a short time in a place, we did not have the
+pleasure of meeting the higher class of women in any of the countries
+visited, but I saw a Javanese lady in Kyoto who dined several times with
+an English lady; her self-possession and dignity of manner were pleasant
+to note, while her responsive smile showed quick intelligence. She had
+been the wife of an English gentleman for twenty years, but still wore
+the graceful kimono, which showed her good sense. Strange as it may
+seem, the founder of Buddhism, with all his teaching of love to mankind,
+filial duty, kindness to animals, and moral precepts in general, failed
+to extend to women, for whom he is said to have had little respect, any
+encouragement other than the abolishing of the law of caste. But,
+notwithstanding, he had many women followers, some even becoming nuns.
+
+The vehicles of the countries we visited were always individual, and I
+have failed to allude to the peculiar sadoe of Java, a two-wheeled cart
+drawn by a small horse, a seat for four persons being placed over the
+axle. The driver is comfortable, but the passengers with no backs for
+support are tossed about unmercifully. This sadoe has a canopy top; it
+is like the jinrikisha, convenient for a shopping excursion, but I pity
+any one who attempts to take a long drive in it! One morning I went out
+alone, and in turning a street corner I was nearly thrown and my
+packages flew in every direction. I felt that I needed a little
+sympathy, but the imperturbable Dutch coachman(?) never even smiled, so
+I concluded it was an every-day occurrence. A dignitary with attendants
+on each side carrying umbrellas is amusing.
+
+The variety of fruit is greater in Java than anywhere else we had been;
+the bananas, however, while fine to look upon were coarse and had little
+flavor; the pineapples were not as excellent as in Ceylon, nor were the
+mangosteens. A photograph I have shows at least twenty-five varieties of
+fruit; the pisang being universally used, as well as the rambutan,
+durian, pomalo, and papaya. The bread-fruit and jack-fruit grow to
+enormous size.
+
+At luncheon (_riz taffel_) I again noticed a peculiar dish being served.
+This consisted of rice, vegetables of various sorts, four or five kinds
+of meat, and a wonderful mixture of condiments, the variety sometimes
+including twenty, all placed in one receptacle similar to a deep
+soup-plate and evidently enjoyed by the partakers; this was only one
+course of the luncheon!
+
+[Illustration: _A Javanese dignitary and his attendants_]
+
+The Dutch ways of dressing in Java are truly remarkable; for instance,
+sarongs, thin jackets, and almost bare feet were often seen in a
+dining-room. To me the culmination of this unconventionality came later;
+the heat was so oppressive that after luncheon I was glad to enjoy a
+rocker on my gallery, and might have envied the couple on the adjoining
+gallery had I been differently educated. For, strangely, the lady wore
+only a sarong of thin material, a diaphanous jacket, and very low
+sandals; she might almost have posed as a life model. As a foil, her
+husband appeared in pajamas.
+
+At 3 P.M. on February 22nd, we took a train for Priok port, which was
+nine miles distant. The steamer _Orange_ (of the Dutch line) was waiting
+for us, and we were soon sailing for Singapore. Once more we passed the
+equator without one thrill of excitement, and, after thirty-six hours,
+were at Singapore, where we were at once transferred to the steamer
+_Nuen-tung_ (the Chinese for "good luck"), North German Lloyd line,
+bound for Bangkok, Siam, the trip requiring four and a half days. The
+steamer was small and only fairly comfortable; the service was Chinese.
+A pleasant feature of the arrangement was an improvised dining-room on
+the upper deck; here all our meals were served, and most of our time
+passed, the temperature being high enough to prevent the chilling of the
+food, which is an indication that the heat must have been rather
+oppressive when in our staterooms. Hence two-thirds of the passengers
+slept on deck, resulting at about nine in the evening in a veritable
+transformation scene. In India we had escaped insects and reptiles; we
+were very fortunate also in Burma, with only a few singing lizards in
+Ceylon; but on this steamer the cockroaches which appeared at night were
+marvellous in size and blackness. Once I imagined there was one on my
+pillow, and turning on the electric light, found I was mistaken, but
+there were a dozen or more on the washstand and walls--very animated
+specimens, to judge by the way they fled.
+
+From the Strait of Malacca we passed into the China Sea, thence to the
+Gulf of Siam, and lastly to the broad Menam River, with banks showing
+masses of foliage, and with tiny Siamese villages or isolated houses
+built close to the water's edge, supported on piles, with thatched roofs
+and sides.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BANGKOK, _March 4th_: Arriving at Bangkok, we took the steamer launch
+for the Oriental Hotel, which is situated on the river-bank. The canals
+leading out of the river reminded us of Batavia. A drive in the
+afternoon of our arrival, accompanied by the Rev. Mr.----, a medical
+missionary, as a non-professional guide, was a new experience and an
+agreeable one, for during the afternoon and evening we learned many
+things about the King that a native guide would not have told us. The
+report showed the King to be progressive in his tendencies; as the
+result of several trips to Europe, he has introduced railways,
+telegraph and modern business appliances, and is making a great effort
+to beautify the city and to improve sanitary conditions, having employed
+French engineers for that purpose.
+
+[Illustration: _The King of Siam_]
+
+I think it might be well to give a slight historical background in order
+the better to understand the conditions of Siam. It is thought that the
+aborigines of Siam were driven out by Laos tribes from the North and
+that they then adopted the name Thai as a sign of victory, Siam
+signifying progress.
+
+In 1350, Ayuthia, a few miles north of Bangkok, became the capital; for
+three centuries Siam was prosperous and opened trade relations with
+China. There were, however, many raids and much fighting until 1536,
+when the King was taken prisoner.
+
+The Portuguese commenced trading with Siam early in the sixteenth
+century, and soon after gave the Siamese military aid against their
+border foes, the troops coming from Goa. As a reward for their services
+they were offered land on which to settle. Later, the soldiers married
+Siamese women and became domesticated. As they had brought their
+Catholic priests with them, conversion of the natives followed, and some
+of the old settlements retain their Christian character to this day.
+
+A few years after the Portuguese advent, the Dutch came, but the
+English did not arrive until 1620, and during the latter part of the
+seventeenth century the three nations were seeking trade relations.
+Great toleration and friendliness to other countries seemed to have been
+practiced even in that early day; French missionaries were also
+welcomed. Soon after, a Siamese embassy left with presents for King
+Louis of France, but they were shipwrecked on the way. Later, another
+embassy went to Versailles, and Louis XIV, much flattered, sent a return
+embassy, which was accorded a great reception in Lopburi, where a treaty
+was signed in 1605, sanctioning the presence of French missionaries.
+There were several subsequent upheavals at Ayuthia, and in 1767 the city
+fell under the strong Burman attack; thus ended the third dynasty of
+Siamese kings. The Burmans, however, were soon conquered, and the
+capital was moved to Bangkok. In the middle of the nineteenth century,
+treaties were made with Great Britain and the other important powers,
+while Cambodia was ceded to France.
+
+The present monarch, Chulalongkorn, ascended the throne in 1868, and has
+since governed the country consistently and well. In May, 1874, a
+political constitution was adopted. The King began his reign by
+decreeing that slavery be abolished, and he instituted several other
+reforms. For many years troublous times with France ensued; this
+finally aroused the indignation of England, and in 1896 an Anglo-French
+agreement was signed in London, by which both countries guaranteed to
+maintain the integrity of the Menam valley.
+
+Siam has during the past few years made rapid progress in the adoption
+of Western ways and Western ideals, thanks to the progressive King, and
+this is attracting visitors from Europe and America more and more. The
+country's position has kept it rather isolated; it is out of the beaten
+track, and is situated between the great commercial ports of Singapore
+and Hong-Kong. Until recently it could not be reached by any passenger
+steamship lines. One's impression of the kingdom must be formed largely
+from Bangkok, as the mountain districts offer no facilities for the
+comfort of visitors, being a decided contrast to Ceylon, Burma, and Java
+in this respect.
+
+The area of Siam is about two hundred thousand square miles, and the
+population is over six million,--mostly native, for there are not over
+twenty thousand representatives of other powers in the kingdom, nor are
+there more than two thousand Europeans.
+
+Bangkok, like Rangoon, has enormous exports of rice, teak, and many
+other commodities; there are large rice factories, and we saw the
+elephants dragging logs to the river, as in Rangoon, whence they are
+brought on rafts to the immense sawmills. Unfortunately, a shallow bar
+at the mouth of the Menam River prevents the passage of large vessels.
+Therefore much of the cargo has to be carried to Koh-si-Chang, outside
+the bar, a distance of fifty miles. Koh-si-Chang is quite a favorite
+resort for the Europeans, Aughin on the coast being another. In the
+latter place there is a large sanitarium.
+
+The revenue of Siam has been mostly derived from the so-termed gambling
+and opium farms. The gambling-houses were formerly great sights in the
+country, but, according to the authority of a gentleman, gambling has
+now been almost entirely abolished in the kingdom, through the strenuous
+efforts of the King. He, however, has been unable to effect this reform
+in Bangkok. For some time Siam has had a proposal before the powers
+which import goods to the effect that the Government be allowed an
+import duty of two per cent, which would furnish the needed revenue for
+State expenses and thus enable the Government to abolish gambling in
+Bangkok altogether. Thus far, the King's proposition has not been
+accepted, showing that the interest of foreign powers controls affairs
+in Siam as well as in other more civilized countries.
+
+We visited several places of interest that first afternoon with Dr.
+W---- as an excellent guide, going first to the Chinese quarter, and
+then taking a general drive. We passed many attractive points,
+particularly in the direction of the new section of the city, of which
+Dusit Park is the centre. This is laid out in the fashion of a park in a
+European capital, having walks, masses of foliage, and conventional
+features in the arrangement of flowers and shrubs. What with the
+tropical growth, it will soon excel any model the King may have seen in
+his European tour.
+
+A new palace is situated near the park, and as soon as this was begun, a
+real-estate development was started around it; the jungle disappeared,
+roads were laid out, and buildings sprang up. Dusit Park is now the
+scene of many activities, and a fancy fair is held there every year,
+with a view to secure funds for the building of the new Wat, or temple,
+which is adjacent, the old one showing signs of decadence.
+
+Buddhism is the State religion, and the King is an ardent devotee; new
+Wats are in constant process of erection, and those in existence are
+lavishly decorated. The new temple alluded to shows European influence
+in its arrangement, having a cloister around a square court in the rear.
+Two other temples were visited, and a further drive taken. On our return
+we went to the place of places in Bangkok, thoroughly Chinese in
+character,--a combination of gambling-den, chop-house, and theatre,
+covering in space about a block. The gambling-den was dimly lighted, and
+on the floor in a large circle were seated men and women, either
+playing the game of fan-tan or anxiously awaiting their turn. I did not
+understand the game, but the haggard expressions and restless attitudes
+around me told a tale of dissipation and ruin. We remained only a few
+moments, then passed into the chop-house, which was crowded and where
+eatables of the Chinese type were _en evidence_ in every direction. The
+theatre was not yet open, but it was spacious, with a large stage. This
+compound is only one of several, and while mainly patronized by Chinese,
+many Siamese and people of other nationalities are drawn in. Tales
+similar to those heard in Monte Carlo could be related. It is to be
+hoped that erelong the King will bring about some measure to abolish
+this standing menace to the morals of the community.
+
+A pleasant dinner and much discussion followed. We learned that there
+were fine hospitals and schools under different missionary auspices, Dr.
+W---- being Presbyterian. To prove the success of the so-called
+Christian effort, he stated that the King gave every encouragement to
+all denominations, and also donated money to aid in building churches,
+feeling that their influence in the country was good.
+
+[Illustration: _In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok_]
+
+The Roman Catholics on account of their priority have a wide field in
+Siam; they have erected about sixty churches in the kingdom. But there
+are, nevertheless, several Protestant churches of different
+denominations in Bangkok and in the interior. A special permit is
+necessary before visiting Wang Chang, the royal palace, a point of much
+interest. The walls around the building enclose a wide area, including
+the old mint and various Government departments. Just in the rear of the
+Department of the Interior, the sacred white elephants are to be found,
+five in number. They are, however, at present pale gray (whatever they
+may have been in the past), which detracts somewhat from the validity of
+the previous statement. Each animal has a house to himself, is greatly
+petted, and it is expected that the elephants will be treated by
+visitors to bananas, and the attendants to cigarettes.
+
+Approaching the palace, the Royal Halls of Audience are the most
+striking feature. The building in which they are to be found is very
+large and of a semi-classic style of architecture, the Italian and
+Siamese being blended. These halls are the only portions of the palace
+to which visitors are admitted. Fronting this building on the opposite
+side of a half square stand several small buildings of a pleasing style.
+These contain antique articles, such as boats, bronze cannon, and other
+relics in bronze.
+
+One of the most striking features in this palace enclosure is Prakeo,
+the royal temple. Its entrance is unique, while the Chinese "Devil
+Protectors" at each side are grotesque. The temple also contains the
+celebrated emerald Buddha, a figure, eighteen inches high, made from the
+largest emerald known in the world. There is, moreover, an exquisite
+small gold Buddha in a glass case, besides many rare vases and other
+articles with, of course, the usual Buddhas in the shrine. Next to the
+palace is a recreation ground, called Premane, where golf is played. The
+race track, however, has been removed to Sapatoom. A very fine Wat Poh
+near the palace contains an immense sleeping Buddha and many other
+interesting features, one of which is a small painted dado illustrating
+the legend of Rama.
+
+The royal museum, Wang Nah, is near the royal palace. It is full to
+repletion with objects of interest, especially to the ethnologist and to
+the archaeologist. Some of the treasures are almost beyond price in
+value, but they are not very well displayed. The galleries are open to
+the public, free of charge, and the visitors' book is quite interesting,
+as it contains the signatures of a number of royalties and celebrities.
+Several of the attendants spoke excellent English and were most
+courteous in their explanations.
+
+[Illustration: _Entrance to Prakeo, the Royal Temple_]
+
+Fronting the royal palace are the artillery and royal body-guard
+barracks and the Hall of the Ambassadors, where distinguished visitors
+are entertained during their stay. Not far distant are the royal
+Courts of Justice, a Doric building, whose interior is arranged in
+European style. The State barges are kept near the museum and across the
+river. Some of them are very large and have room for one hundred rowers,
+whilst most of them are very ancient. These boats are used in the State
+functions on the river. Almost directly opposite the palace is a naval
+dockyard. It is not large compared with those of Europe and America, but
+a great variety of work is carried on. There are large machine shops and
+spacious quarters for officers and marines, a graving dock capable of
+accommodating vessels of large size, and an ice factory which supplies
+the navy and the royal palace. There is also a fine Royal Military
+College in Siam. Other Government departments show the great progress of
+the country, particularly when it is remembered that fifty years ago
+Bangkok had no facilities whatsoever.
+
+In the afternoon we took a steam launch to explore different canals. The
+first we visited in order to acquaint ourselves with the traffic and
+with various kinds of boats, some being loaded at warehouses along the
+way. The buildings were very unusual, as were the sights on the water.
+We then went on the river Menam, to visit certain temples. Among these
+were Wat Saket, which stands on the summit of an artificial hill and
+commands a fine view; and Wat Kanayat, where there was a collection of
+porcelain-trimmed temples and pagodas. We attended a short, intoned
+Buddhist service in one of the temples. In another, Wat Cheng, we had
+our fortunes told in the following manner: we each drew from a vase a
+long, narrow slip of paper with a number on it, then we proceeded to a
+priest, robed in yellow silk, presented our number, paid a fee, and in
+return received a pink paper containing a great many hieroglyphics,
+which our guide was able to interpret. Each fortune was rather peculiar
+and diversified in details. We, however, did not attach any importance
+to what was told us.
+
+The roofs of some of the Wats are very handsome, the parti-colored tiles
+of which they are composed adding to their effect, whilst the pointed
+upturned gables, a feature peculiar to Siamese architecture, also added
+in no small degree to their picturesqueness.
+
+All the principal Wats are accessible to visitors, but it is necessary
+to have with you a guide who can explain the different features.
+Sometimes the priests have a knowledge of English. Many of the Wats are
+suffering greatly from the ravages of time, and some are almost ruined.
+Of course this applies to the more remote temples, those in the vicinity
+of the palace being beautifully cared for. The King and other members of
+the royal family spend vast sums upon the temples; nobles and wealthy
+Siamese likewise contribute largely to the funds, but all their efforts
+are not sufficient to keep the numberless places in proper condition.
+
+[Illustration: _The Klong Canal at Bangkok_]
+
+The King, who is now the sole reigning Buddhist monarch, takes the
+greatest interest in the maintenance of his faith and everything
+belonging to it. He is an ardent Pali scholar, and has established a
+college for the study of that ancient language. Nearly every State
+function which takes place within the palace walls is associated with
+some religious service, and the Buddhist faith seems to be deeply rooted
+in the heart of the Siamese people. The sacred books used in the temples
+are of palm-leaf, similar in style to those seen in Burma; a large
+number of women are employed in a factory for their manufacture, while
+many men are also there for the purpose of engraving characters on the
+palm-leaf with a set of special implements.
+
+It had been a perfect afternoon, and the shores of the broad river Menam
+(meaning "Mother of Waters") were more than usually interesting on
+account of the novel architectural display, temples alternating with
+buildings of various descriptions, most of them gleaming white in the
+sun. We made a detour into the Klong Canal, which led out of the river
+some miles from our starting-point. Soon we had an entirely different
+type of scenery, similar to the jungle; dense vegetation came quite to
+the edge of the canal. In places there would be two, three, or even more
+Siamese houses built high on piles, with thatched roofs and sides and an
+open front, the home life of the inmates being distinctly seen through
+the open front. Of course our launch served to collect all the curious
+in groups, from infants to grandparents. Ever and anon tiny boats passed
+us, the rowers singing or twanging some kind of an instrument with that
+happy unconsciousness of responsibility which seems to characterize the
+Siamese, reminding one of the days in Rangoon.
+
+We came at last to a point where navigation was impeded because of a
+large vessel aground, and after skilful manoeuvring and some minutes'
+delay, our launch proceeded on the homeward way. Night was upon us
+before we left the canal, and as the twilight faded, the gleaming of the
+lights in the little homes put a finishing touch to the picture. Once on
+the broad river, the shore effect was more wonderful than by day, and we
+lost all note of time until we were told at the hotel landing that it
+was half-past seven o'clock.
+
+The following morning we left, at half-past six, for an excursion by
+rail and river to the old capital, Ayuthia. The ride of three hours in a
+car presented no special features. But we then took a steam launch and
+proceeded some miles farther in order to visit the ruins of the old
+palace and the elephants' kraal. Skirting in and out, we saw about three
+miles of houseboats on sampans. This was a most interesting spectacle,
+all kinds of traffic being carried on, some space aboard being reserved
+for the family. There were boats for the sale of flowers and vegetables,
+others for household commodities, and some had crockery and glass and
+baskets. We then visited two temples. The ruins cover an immense space
+of ground and are a fine field for archaeologists, but we had no means of
+classifying them and our guide was not scientific. Many of the most
+interesting relics are surrounded by a dense jungle which makes them
+difficult of access, but one receives a certain impression of the
+ancient grandeur of the place.
+
+Tradition states that the custom of wearing the hair short by Siamese
+women dates from the days when Ayuthia was a capital. It is said that
+during one of the political invasions by the Burmans most of the men
+were absent in the harvest fields. The women accordingly cut their hair,
+took bows and arrows and spears, and manned the city walls. The Burmans,
+thinking they were men, were astonished at finding such a strong
+garrison and retired, much discomfited. It is also said that the women
+then adopted the same dress as the men, the panung, a garment something
+like the sarong but drawn up in the middle, front and back. The cutting
+of the hair and the peculiar garb make it difficult to tell the Siamese
+women from the men. The style is distinctive with the women, as all of
+the surrounding people--the Burmans, Laos, and Malays--wear the sarong.
+
+A walk of ten minutes from Wang Chang brought us to the famous
+elephants' kraal, or enclosure, into which the elephants are driven to
+be captured and tamed. This is a massive structure of teak logs, with a
+kind of V-shaped passage leading to it. When a hunt is to occur, the
+places frequented by the elephants are noted weeks beforehand, and they
+are gradually surrounded by some hundreds of men mounted upon trained
+elephants and also afoot, the elephants being gradually driven towards
+the entrance of the kraal. Within, there is an exciting scene, as the
+ponderous, awkward animals find themselves pressed onwards _en masse_
+through the massive gate into the enclosure. Once inside, they are
+dexterously captured by long leg ropes, whilst their struggles are kept
+from assuming dangerous proportions by trained elephants which range up
+alongside of them and aid their masters in every possible way,
+apparently taking quite a delight in the task. These hunts occur at
+regular intervals, and are generally attended by a large number of
+foreign visitors. Accidents, even deaths, sometimes happen, but these
+are not frequent. We regretted we were not in Siam at the proper season
+to witness such a scene.
+
+[Illustration: _The famous Elephants' Kraal_]
+
+After a picnic luncheon, we proceeded down the river, stopping at
+different points to visit temples of varying interest; one was
+particularly noteworthy, as it contained a very large Buddha in the back
+of the temple and a row of brass Buddhas around three of its sides, some
+of them in fine repousse work. At Ban Pa In we left the launch to take
+the train. Here the King has two palaces.
+
+Ban Pa In is on an island in the Menam River. One handsome palace is in
+the European style, and another is of a pure Chinese pattern. There is a
+modern temple of Gothic style, built fifteen years ago. Near the palace
+a tower affords a fine view.
+
+We arrived at Bangkok late in the afternoon, feeling well pleased with
+our day's excursion.
+
+Fifty years ago Bangkok had none of the public buildings to be seen
+to-day,--perhaps a mile of good road and streets in only fair condition;
+now there are numerous drives and perfect communication to every point
+of the city. There are twelve miles of electric railway line, soon to be
+extended, while leading out from Bangkok are hundreds of miles of
+well-equipped railways. Jinrikishas are used in Bangkok, but with
+foreigners carriages are preferred. The native street, called Sampeng,
+is really a Chinese-Siamese combination, and might be termed a bazar on
+the order of those visited in previous cities. The streets, filled with
+strong odors, are small lanes running parallel with the river, and to me
+were less interesting than previous bazars, the venders seeming to be
+apathetic and having less variety of goods. This impression may,
+however, have been due to the midday hour, for the natives,
+understanding the climate, are only alert during the mornings and
+evenings. The season may also have lessened the dash and excitement of
+the street. We were told there were quite as many tribes and
+nationalities represented in Bangkok as in Singapore, and such a mixture
+usually means novelty. The dress and undress in Siam afforded variety,
+the men and women nearly alike, for, as stated in the description in
+connection with Ayuthia, the women have short hair and wear the panung
+precisely like the men.
+
+The guides in Siam are not very competent, and could give us only
+ordinary information, so there was little for us to do but to speculate
+on certain points.
+
+[Illustration: _Tower of Royal Palace at Ban-Pa-In_]
+
+There are several interesting towns which are within a few hours'
+railway communication with Bangkok, but we could only read of them, as
+none of them had hotels or even rest houses for the convenience of
+tourists. This state of things will be remedied as soon as it is
+realized that the outside world is interested in this far-away kingdom,
+the first tourist party having visited Siam only two years ago. We were
+hampered before reaching this country by the lack of a guide-book (as we
+had been in Java), Murray's enlightening knowledge having extended only
+through India, Burma, and Ceylon; but after our arrival in Bangkok we
+found some local guide-books, from which we learned of the towns alluded
+to.
+
+Petchaburi seemed one of the most interesting on account of the
+wonderful caves and temples, a description of which I will give in
+brief, in order to prove that Siam, like the other countries previously
+visited, has unusual attractions along these lines. The railway to
+Petchaburi was opened in 1902, and the journey takes five and a half
+hours from Bangkok. It is an old historic town of much importance and
+the centre of a very populous district. It is picturesquely situated on
+both banks of the stream, curving seaward at the foot of some wooded
+hills. One of the hills is crowned with the royal palace and another
+with a handsome temple. The palace is a magnificent edifice and commands
+wide views on all sides, the sea being clearly seen from the
+observatory. The hill on which is situated the temple, and its
+companion, are known as Kow Wang.
+
+Descending a well-constructed, if somewhat precipitous, staircase for
+what must be fully a hundred feet, we find ourselves in a cave from
+which a very spacious archway leads into a huge vaulted chamber. The
+first impression is one of acute astonishment, by no means lessened,
+even after one becomes accustomed to the dim light inside. By rough
+calculation the cave is about two hundred yards long by one hundred
+wide. The floor is paved throughout with tiles, and at every turn there
+is an image of Buddha. At one end there is a statue fully fifteen feet
+high in a niche fronting the entrance, and near by is one twelve feet
+high. In a wide passage, leading to another extensive cave, is a statue
+of the sleeping Buddha, apparently about fifteen feet long, and in the
+semi-gloom which surrounds him, suggestive of eternal calm and peace. In
+this cave are more Buddhas, sitting, standing, and reclining.
+
+Thence, on through a somewhat low and dark tunnel, we go to yet another
+cave, from which a short passage leads upward to what was the original
+dark entrance. This is now impassable, as the stairs have collapsed.
+Many curious stalactites are in clusters, some like inverted lilies and
+others like canopies or umbrellas; they are of all sizes, ranging from a
+few inches to several feet in diameter and some are tinted in various
+shades. The caves are well worth visiting, and a view of them will
+adequately repay the time and expense of the journey from Bangkok. In
+the centre of the town and near a quaint wooden bridge stands Wat
+Mahathal, conspicuous by reason of its unfinished brick tower, on the
+summit of which a couple of trees are growing; a quadrangle surrounding
+this contains one hundred and ninety-five images of Buddha, which are of
+interest if only because of the different expressions of their
+countenances.
+
+[Illustration: _A Siamese girl_]
+
+The American Presbyterian Mission has a commodious hospital, pleasantly
+situated on the river bank, which enjoys a high reputation among the
+natives. There are two distinct tribes of Laos inhabiting this district.
+The women, on account of their peculiar headgear and jackets of dark
+cloth and short sarong, are interesting. The cultivation of rice is the
+prevailing industry in this district.
+
+Judging by the number of Siamese feasts and festivals there are in the
+calendar, a holiday must always be in order. The Siamese official year
+opens April 1st, and about that time, a date regulated by the moon, the
+New Year holiday occurs. This is not celebrated quite as vigorously as
+it formerly was, but the country people make it the occasion for
+performing some great deed of merit, and this proves a time of harvest
+for the priests. Every one wears his best clothes, a special kind of
+cake is served, and the temples are thronged. Gambling laws are set
+aside, and in every house may be seen some game of chance. On the
+evening of the second day, for the festival continues through a period
+of three, all the guns along the palace walls are fired thirty-six
+times.
+
+The Astronomical New Year soon follows, when the images of Buddha are
+sprinkled with water, while the priests hold a festival at the royal
+palace. Priests and aged people are presented with gifts.
+
+When the sixth Siamese moon is at its full, the birth, inspiration, and
+death of the Lord Buddha are observed with great veneration; good deeds
+prompt every one, alms are given to the poor, and fine robes sent to the
+priests.
+
+Twice a year the ceremonial drinking of the water of allegiance takes
+place at the royal palace. The princes, nobles, and principal Government
+officials assemble, drink, and sprinkle their foreheads with water in
+which various weapons have been dipped. Appropriate religious services
+are also held. The principal European officials also conform to this
+custom, which usually occurs in the months of March, April, and
+September.
+
+[Illustration: _A royal barge at Bangkok_]
+
+The ploughing ceremony takes place in May and marks the beginning of the
+planting season. The King is represented by the Minister of Agriculture,
+who goes with a procession to the selected spot, and, after some
+religious service, takes hold of a plough which is drawn by two gayly
+bedecked oxen. After scratching the ground for about an hour, four
+ladies of the royal household, attired in ancient costumes, sow various
+kinds of seed carried in gilded baskets. The grain thus scattered is
+considered sacred, and there is a wild scramble for it at the close.
+Many signs and symbols are attached to various parts of the ceremony,
+which usually takes place at Dusit Park.
+
+A swinging festival is very unique and interesting, but is quite
+complicated and has to be seen to be understood. The swing is very high
+and I think is stationary.
+
+Another ceremony is the giving of priests' robes. This lasts a month,
+and the King or his deputies visit every Wat in the kingdom. At this
+time the boat racing at the Pakman Wat occurs, and the royal barge and
+State boats are all brought out for the occasion. At another festival,
+the Loy Krathong (all these celebrations have their Siamese names), the
+river Menam and the canals present a gala appearance, being dotted at
+night with thousands of miniature ships, rafts, and boats, each
+brilliantly lighted and bearing offerings to the goddess of water. This
+festival occurs in October and November.
+
+But the greatest occasion of the year is the King's birthday, September
+20th, the three following days being included in the festival.
+Everywhere the city is a blaze of red and white bunting, and at night it
+is brilliant with myriad lights, presenting a fairylike scene. About
+this time the Foreign Office gives its annual ball, a brilliant occasion
+for which invitations are in great demand.
+
+Siamese ceremonies are quite as peculiar as their feasts. The habit of
+cutting the long tuft of hair, which is left on children's heads until
+they have attained their growth, is very striking, and at the royal
+palace very elaborate preparations are made, which include religious
+ceremonies and the use of a golden jewelled instrument resembling
+shears.
+
+In Siam cremation is the general way of disposing of the dead. Among the
+wealthy classes the body is embalmed and kept sometimes three years
+before the ceremony, which is conducted with great pomp and on a very
+expensive plan, gifts being distributed among all the attendant friends
+and sums of money given to the priests and to the poor. The Chinese, of
+which there are large numbers, are usually buried, but in case of a
+mixed marriage the children are cremated.
+
+There are many superstitions. A peculiar one in court circles is the
+wearing of a different-colored panung each day of the week,--on Sunday,
+red; Monday, cream; Tuesday, purple; and so on,--for good luck. Another
+is the use of buttons adorned with representations of animals,
+symbolical of the year in which certain persons are born,--this also for
+good luck. The tendency naturally leads to great respect being shown to
+fortune-tellers. The youth of Siam are, however, it is said, outgrowing
+this superstitious condition.
+
+One time-honored custom is, however, in greater vogue than ever, and
+that is massage, which is employed by all classes.
+
+While the foreign residents of Bangkok are not large in number, they
+have made their impress felt, and in no way more markedly than in the
+amusements which they have inaugurated. There are sixteen organizations,
+many of them recreation clubs for golf, tennis, and cricket, but there
+are also a literary club, a dramatic club, a Philharmonic Society, and a
+gymnasium. Bangkok has a good library, containing books of travel,
+reference, and fiction.
+
+Racing is popular and is generally attended by the King, who gives gold
+cups for prizes. Hunting is in great favor, for game can be found near
+Bangkok, and at not a remote distance lurk the rhinoceros, buffalo,
+tiger, leopard, deer, antelope, hare, and crocodile. Elephants abound,
+but may not be shot.
+
+Bangkok, as a city, becomes distinctively individual as one learns more
+of it; for instance, the telegraph and the telephone lines are
+controlled by the postal department and are working satisfactorily under
+this regime. As early as 1902, important fiscal changes were introduced:
+one was the closing of the mints to free silver, and the other an
+issuance of paper currency notes. The first meant the practical adoption
+of a gold standard. I cite these examples as showing still further
+progressive methods.
+
+There are holiday resorts on the east coast of the gulf, where Bangkok
+residents can retire for a change of air. These have been mentioned.
+There are also remoter places of great interest farther in the interior
+and in the mountains, which will soon be available for travellers.
+
+Rathburi is an old walled town of importance. Near here, the French
+Catholic priests have a mission house and seminary. The American
+Presbyterian Mission owns a fine hospital, and two missionary families
+are stationed here.
+
+Phrapatoon is the seat of a large pagoda which is visible for many miles
+around. It was formerly gilded and was built in style similar to the
+pagodas seen in Burma.
+
+With all the available information about the kingdom of Siam, one cannot
+but feel that it has a future full of possibilities; certain it is that
+the measures already inaugurated by the King are made for the welfare of
+his people.
+
+The tropical growth of Siam impressed us only slightly, as we had just
+come from Java, "the garden of the earth." Otherwise we should have been
+enthusiastic over the beauty of the landscape and the luxurious growth
+of trees and plants.
+
+There was no special programme on our last morning in Bangkok, and so I
+wandered around for final impressions and for photographs. I had an
+amusing little talk with what proved to be the court photographer. Among
+other notables of the realm, he showed me a picture of the Crown Prince,
+whereupon I innocently asked him how many sons there were. He replied,
+"Sixty-seven," and that he had taken all their photographs. The reply
+was rather startling, and I impulsively asked, "And how many daughters?"
+He looked blank and admitted that he did not know. Of course I
+understood that the family relations of the King were modelled on
+strictly Oriental lines, and that he had three legal wives, the number
+prescribed by law; but I was unprepared for a statement that showed a
+daughter in a royal household to be such a nonentity as the above
+implied.
+
+When I visited the market, I saw an unlimited number of fruits as well
+as vegetables; cocoanuts, plantains, bananas, durians, pineapples,
+bread-fruit, jack-fruit, dates, almonds, pomaloes, mangoes (fifty
+varieties), mangosteens, custard apples, limes, oranges, tamarinds,
+figs, and papayas, all are to be found here in their proper season. I
+did not even know the names of some, but never again do I hope to see
+such a display.
+
+There were fewer flowers than I had been led to expect, but the flora of
+Siam is said to be particularly rich in unusual varieties of orchids,
+which are found flourishing abundantly even in the jungles, and a visit
+would well repay a collector. A person can find a rich field in Siam
+along many lines of investigation.
+
+We left Bangkok in the afternoon on the steamer _Nuen-tung_ for a five
+days' return trip to Singapore. I have already alluded to the "sand bar"
+which is an obstacle to navigation; hence it is that the heavy freight
+vessels anchor fifty miles distant at Koh-si-Chang, but I learned later
+that this obstacle could have been removed by dredging, had not the
+authorities declined to take any action, as the "bar" furnished a safe
+means of defence should war ever occur.
+
+We saw various pagodas as we advanced; the most noted example was in the
+village of Pakman. As viewed through masses of foliage, it reminded us
+of the trip on the Irrawaddy River in Burma. A cargo of rice was taken
+on at Koh-si-Chang, and we did not leave there until eleven, the day
+following. A group of islands similarly called was a feature of the
+trip. It was cooler when we entered the Gulf of Siam, and the China
+Sea was favorably smooth. The conditions of the steamer were unchanged,
+but they had grown familiar to us, and even the cockroaches no longer
+intimidated me.
+
+[Illustration: _The collier quay at Singapore_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SINGAPORE: We arrived at Singapore early in the morning, and for a third
+time viewed the shores; on this trip we went to the Raffles Hotel for a
+brief sojourn. The place is airy, capacious, and semi-Oriental, and
+reminded us of Colombo, as did the temperature, for although but two
+degrees from the equator, the air was like June at home, and without any
+of the chill in the evening that we sometimes experience; so it was a
+great pleasure to sit out in the corridor-like veranda and listen to the
+music. It was all so contrary to our expectations, for we had been told
+fearful tales about heat, insects, and general discomfort on the Malay
+Peninsula, or on what they term the "Straits Settlements."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+JOHORE: To commence with, we devoted the first afternoon to an excursion
+to Johore, the capital of an independent Malay province, whose Sultan
+reigns with pomp and ceremony. After a railway ride, we took the ferry
+across the river, where a scene of loveliness awaited us. The city is
+unpretentious in appearance, but our afternoon excursion revealed to us
+a varied landscape with a tropical growth. We visited a plantation
+where india rubber, one of the chief articles of export, is cultivated;
+then a large Mohammedan mosque, finely located on an eminence. The tiger
+house on this particular day held but one inmate, who showed no desire
+to devour us.
+
+The grounds surrounding the palace are as spacious and as well cared for
+as a botanical garden, with the brilliant flowers, blossoming trees, and
+a great number of red sealing-wax palms. The palace is luxuriantly
+embowered in vines and trees. Johore is a famous gambling-place, but the
+"parlors" were deserted on this afternoon, and we could see only the
+fine furnishings in carved teakwood.
+
+The stay in Johore ended with tea at a hotel. Here we saw the real
+Sultan entertaining a party of Europeans. He looked young and was
+dressed in an immaculate English style, quite unlike the striped calico
+suits displayed by royalty at Jeypore, India. He came in a French
+automobile, and is said to pass half his time in Singapore, being fond
+of society. We arrived in Singapore for dinner, and during the evening a
+delightful surprise awaited me in the appearance of two Milwaukee
+friends.
+
+[Illustration: _The Sultan's Palace at Johore_]
+
+The following day much ground was covered, for, by invitation of
+Cincinnati friends, I took a motor ride of about forty miles amidst
+undreamed-of beauty, both near the city and in the surrounding
+country. There were streets lined with villas whose gardens were full of
+a luxuriant growth of shrubs and flowers; some of them had the quaintest
+high-arched gateways, with coats of arms and animals carved in stone on
+each side of the entrance. The Botanical Gardens were very interesting,
+as was also the park, miles from the city, and laid out around the
+reservoir, which furnishes all the water supply. We went on and on until
+we reached the "Gap," where a mountain view awaited us. We visited the
+shops and bazars before luncheon, and in the afternoon all of us
+explored the native Malay quarter. The dress of the women was unlike any
+other seen in the Orient. The Chinese seemed to be the real residents,
+for everywhere they prevailed in large numbers.
+
+In whatever direction we went, new features revealed themselves, and we
+commended the wisdom of Sir Stamford Raffles in founding this island
+city with its wonderful harbor, where shipping from almost all parts of
+the world congregates, making the active sights at the quay at once
+novel and business-like. Indians, Sikhs, Malays, and other nationalities
+are represented, but the Chinese perform all the menial labor required.
+
+The coolie is a character,--patient, hard-working, uncomplaining,
+supplying a demand throughout the Orient, made necessary, as we have
+seen, by the indolence of the Burmese and of the Malays, to mention only
+two examples.
+
+Singapore is very gay in the season, and a centre for the wealth of the
+Far East; indeed, sultans and nabobs consider it a veritable Paris.
+
+The last morning of our stay, I went around in a jinrikisha, and my man
+was as fleet as a horse. I had an experience trying to find so simple an
+article as a paper of pins, visiting shop after shop. Evidently they
+have not learned the ways of the American department store!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+HONG-KONG: We sailed in the late afternoon on the steamer _Moltke_ for a
+five days' voyage to Hong-Kong, with a feeling that we had experienced
+no discomfort but much pleasure in the seemingly maligned city of
+Singapore.
+
+We passed the Strait of Malacca without any untoward excitement, and we
+steamed along pleasantly with a group of passengers who looked well-bred
+and agreeable; as time went on, our first impression of them was
+corroborated. A delightful feature aboard was music every evening in the
+salon, mostly singing. There was a service on Sunday, both for the
+first-class and second-class passengers. We soon entered the China Sea,
+which was to be our sole waterway to Hong-Kong, fifteen hundred miles
+distant, or rather to the Straits of Formosa, which guard the China
+Sea on the north, as the Strait of Malacca does on the south. We reached
+port on the morning of March 20th, and the approach--past many islands,
+along the fine harbor, with its high rocky shores, towering mountains in
+the background, and a terraced city in the foreground--gave us a new
+sensation. We landed at Kowloon and were taken across to Hong-Kong
+(which, properly and legally speaking, is Victoria).
+
+[Illustration: _A general view of Hong-Kong_]
+
+[Illustration: _The public gardens in Hong-Kong_]
+
+Fronting the landing is a long street of fine stone business houses,
+which extend tier after tier from the shore and in a way represent the
+city's commercial importance.
+
+The Hong-Kong Hotel is situated in the business centre; although under
+English management, the service was entirely Chinese, and at luncheon we
+were confronted by an array of waiters with braids around their heads
+and wearing long blue garments made like aprons; the ensemble was indeed
+most depressing. The menu presented a curious feature, the courses being
+numbered, and you were expected to point to the number, but woe to any
+one who wished an egg boiled four minutes or a piece of rare roast!
+
+Hong-Kong is on the north shore of the island, and dampness prevails
+even when it does not rain (there is an unusual amount of rain); in
+consequence, great care has to be observed by the residents, both of
+their homes and clothing. Yet, notwithstanding this and other
+disabilities, the English have made the island "blossom like a rose."
+Engineering enterprise has converted the mountain-side into an
+attractive residence centre. A railway leading to the Peak (the highest
+point in the landscape) is not only a convenience, but a pleasure on
+account of the magnificent view afforded along the ascent. A little
+lower is an attractive Peak Hotel, which is popular with residents. At
+every point on the heights there are features to impress one, as we
+found the afternoon of our arrival, when we took jinrikishas to visit
+Happy Valley, where are located the public garden and the Protestant
+cemetery, which is also laid out like a park. The Catholic cemetery is
+near by and has the same general features. Happy Valley is also the
+scene for various sports, such as golf, tennis, croquet, and racing, in
+which Hong-Kong abounds.
+
+The afternoon of our visit, we walked about to various points, enjoying
+the views, and commending the perfection which had been wrought since
+1842, when China ceded the island to Great Britain. Realizing that
+Hong-Kong was destined to be a world port, England some years since
+leased a portion of the mainland from China for further harbor
+facilities. This strip extends back thirty miles and is held for a
+term of ninety-nine years. The city retains its former name, Kowloon,
+but its business facilities are all under English management. The miles
+of docks, warehouses, shipyards, and machine shops are another proof of
+the wisdom and forethought with which Great Britain carries out her
+plans for colonizing alien places.
+
+[Illustration: _A typical street in a Chinese city_]
+
+Hong-Kong was destined to be our headquarters for nearly two weeks; it
+is a convenient point from which to make excursions. On the first Sunday
+morning I attended service at the English Cathedral; the building is on
+the heights, surrounded by a well-kept close and overlooking a fine
+residence portion of the city. I was conveyed to church in a sedan chair
+on account of the steep ascent. During our excursion to the Peak, we
+first took a railway chair, then a sedan chair; leaving that, we had a
+long climb before we reached the summit, where there is a flagstaff.
+What a view was before us--mountains in the distance, the harbor and the
+islands, shipping of all kinds, and roofs of every description!
+Descending, we had tea at the Peak Hotel. Another afternoon we went in a
+launch to Kowloon. We took a jinrikisha for a general exploration of the
+old Chinese city, and aside from what has been indicated, we went
+through the native quarter, saw several temples, visited a Chinese
+school, and ascended the high wall for a view. Much of the wall is
+unimpaired. A drive in the country followed, and we saw many tiny
+Chinese gardens and a number of cemeteries.
+
+The jinrikisha ride to Aberdeen, a fishing village some miles distant,
+proved delightful. The roadway was sometimes close to the water's edge;
+then we ascended and looked down over low cliffs, with coves ever and
+anon dotting the shore. It reminded me continually of the ride from
+Sorrento to Amalfi, and again of the Upper Corniche drive from Mentone
+to Nice.
+
+Early on Wednesday, March 25th, we left on the steamer _Keung Shang_ for
+a visit to Canton, ninety miles distant. Leaving the commercial city and
+a fleet of shipping vessels behind us, we had some miles of lake
+scenery; then we had islands and the coast line beyond. Soon we were in
+Pearl River, and the surroundings grew more picturesque,--now a little
+village near the water's edge with a mountain behind, and then more
+islands and more mountain ranges. We had a glimpse of Castle Peak, two
+thousand feet high. We then passed an immense prominence, called the
+Half-Way Rock. At a place known as Tiger's Mouth, fortifications were
+seen. The country soon becomes flat, with rice fields and fruit farms;
+we saw the Whampoa Pagoda and some miles farther on the Honam Pagoda.
+Near Canton, we passed another pagoda, and then the white spire of the
+French cathedral gleamed out, and our goal was reached. It is a most
+interesting river trip, and is unfortunately more often taken at night,
+in order to economize time.
+
+The first impression of Canton is one of noise, a fearful din rising and
+falling in a kind of cadence, and seeming to proceed largely from an
+immense flotilla of boats extending a long way, tied, in a majority of
+cases, seven and eight rows deep--craft of all kinds, sampans, junks,
+rice boats, freight, each with its quota of humanity, for this is a
+veritable floating city, with a life all its own, and almost wholly
+independent of the Canton proper which we were about to visit and which
+numbered a hundred thousand souls.
+
+We had not anticipated much enjoyment in Canton, having read of the dirt
+and smells, but we had not expected to be deafened at our very entrance,
+and I think for the time being it dulled the consciousness of this
+wonderful spectacle of a floating independent city just at the door of a
+city whose name is famous the world over.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CANTON, _March 25th_: We were soon conveyed up a back canal to the
+Shameen (the name of the city of foreign concession), where our
+quarters, the Hotel Victoria, were located. My room was situated on the
+ground floor, the gallery opening on a large garden or court, abloom
+with trees and flowers. There was no key to the door, and strangers were
+all about me, but the complacent manner in which I met this fact caused
+me to realize that my courage was greater than when at Jeypore in
+far-away India.
+
+The first afternoon, a jinrikisha ride convinced us that we were in the
+most congested city on the face of the globe; a city of streets so
+narrow that two chairs could hardly pass each other; a city of strange
+sights and more violent contrasts than any we had yet seen. And the
+smells!--the English language does not contain words strong enough to
+describe them. In the bazar portion of the city we were diverted by the
+box-like shops, with their open fronts, and filled with curios, works in
+jade, wood, and unique articles of feather jewelry.
+
+Then the wonderful Chinese signs! We had noticed and admired them in
+Hong-Kong, but in size and beauty they now far excelled anything of the
+kind we had seen before. They extended from an upper story, for these
+bazars were many of them on the ground floor of four-story apartments,
+each story having its front gallery where one could witness diversified
+scenes of family life. The signs are about a half a yard wide and are
+decorated from top to bottom, with gold and brilliant colors, the
+Chinese letters forming a large feature of the display. These signs
+(sometimes five grouped together) are wonderfully effective, as they
+sway back and forth in the wind, and they are a partial indication of
+the Chinese industry which prevails.
+
+[Illustration: _A five-story pagoda_]
+
+There were larger shops in better locations in the city, and here we
+found the grass linen embroidered articles and the crape for which
+Canton is famous.
+
+The following morning, we departed on a more serious sight-seeing
+expedition, to include all manner of typical Cantonese places, but
+before I had been out an hour I decided that the description of one
+temple only would not adequately convey a true impression, for
+everywhere we went things seemed unreal and grotesque, but interesting.
+First, we entered what our guide termed the Medicine Temple, not so very
+large, where on the opposite side of the room huge idols were placed
+before all manner of receptacles for holding medicine; next a Buddhist
+Temple, very inferior to any we had seen; then a Confucian temple, plain
+like the majority of them; while a Shinto temple had the characteristic
+torii before it. This latter I will describe when Japan, the land of the
+torii, is the topic.
+
+The Five-story Pagoda is quite imposing, as it is placed on the city
+wall and commands a wide view. It is the custom for parties to go there
+and take their picnic luncheon, and our guide had planned for us to do
+this, but unfortunately the pagoda was being repaired and visitors were
+not permitted. So we proceeded to a large building on an eminence, which
+was furnished like a club house and was evidently for public use. There
+was a conventional garden in front, affording a very extended view.
+
+A visit to the so-called "Home of the Dead" followed; this was unlike
+anything ever experienced before. We entered an enclosure, laid out
+partly as a garden; there were walks leading around, and some of them
+had low rooms at the sides, with open fronts, while on a plinth rested
+coffins of different styles; the bodies within were awaiting burial.
+Flowers were scattered here and there, and I believe fruit, food, and
+offerings of various kinds also.
+
+We next visited the place of execution, which was ghastly with its
+associations, and the executioner swung the large instrument around, as
+the guide explained the process of decapitating heads. But fortunately
+for our nerves the place then contained only long rows of jars from a
+pottery near by.
+
+The Nambo Prison proved to be a wooden affair, gates and all, but the
+poor unkept, unwashed victims who glared at us through the bars looked
+too sickly and emaciated to offer any resistance, even had they a mind
+to escape.
+
+[Illustration: _Temple of the Five Genii at Canton_]
+
+By far the most interesting place we visited was the Temple of the Five
+Hundred Genii, with large brass gods seated on opposite sides of a long
+hall,--the Temple of the Five Genii, and the ancestral temple of a
+certain royal family of China. We first entered a large enclosure, then
+a goodly-sized audience room, and next the temple proper. The three
+walls of this room (as I remember them) were fitted up like an immense
+cabinet, with rows of drawers, each supposed to contain some document
+relating to that particular ancestor. There was one upright vacant space
+which the guide said would be filled when that branch of the family
+died.
+
+We were here without a "Murray," as in Java and Siam, so we graciously
+accepted such information as our most intelligent guide could give us,
+who, by the way, was the original guide of Canton, two sons now
+following in his footsteps, for the father in his later years rarely
+accompanies parties. He is a gentleman, affable, well dressed in Chinese
+brocade, and less unresponsive than are most Chinese; it was indeed a
+pleasure to be "conducted" by him.
+
+The Hall of Examination is open to the public only once in three years,
+when students of high-school grade are examined for entrance to a
+university course, eighty-seven of the applicants being chosen. The hall
+has, on three sides, little box-like slates about six by eight feet,
+furnished with only a plank on which the student must sit and sleep. He
+is shut in there for three days, food being given him on entering for
+the entire time. This torture is repeated three times, so that nine days
+of purgatory have to be endured before the goal is reached.
+
+The aristocracy of Canton is not one of wealth, but of intellectual
+honors; many of the Chinamen who are seen wearing horn-rimmed spectacles
+are either of a literary turn of mind or are attempting to pass as such.
+
+Seen from the city wall or any very high point, Canton seems a city of
+roofs, with scarcely an opening and not a vestige of green. The narrow
+streets are many of them covered with awnings. It is a city of great
+color, the brilliant signs, the covered palanquin chairs, the costumes
+of the wealthy Chinese, all contributing to the riotous effect. It is a
+city of very wide contrasts, for rich and poor jostle each other on the
+streets and their homes are often side by side.
+
+Canton is, after all, even with the noise, smells, and dirt included, a
+fascinating city, and while one would not care to remain long in it, one
+should never omit it.
+
+Shameen, the island of concession, where are located two hotels,
+consulates, churches, some shops, and the homes of all the foreign
+residents, is a most pleasing place. Long avenues of trees are seen on
+every side, the grounds of many of the homes sloping to the river,
+which of itself adds to the beauty; the water is spanned by two iron
+bridges which are locked every night; everywhere a general air of
+refinement prevails. This very Shameen furnishes the greatest contrast
+of all to hoary, venerable old Canton.
+
+[Illustration: _The San Paulo Facade_]
+
+It is claimed that Canton's origin dates from three hundred years before
+the Christian era. The city was then encircled by a kind of stockade
+made of bamboo and river mud, and it resembled a camp in most of its
+details. A thousand years and Canton is alluded to as a commercial city,
+with a special commissioner appointed by the Government to superintend
+foreign trade. At an early date the great pass was constructed through
+the Mei-hung range of mountains, and this proves to be one of the
+principal trade-routes in use at the present time. Another thousand
+years and we have the city of to-day, with its peculiar conditions, its
+fascinations. Surely its age commands our respect. Its people, seemingly
+impassive, are a subject for study, as are all the Chinese. Will the
+Western mind ever be able to understand this? I have a theory that
+behind the impassiveness there is a certain kind of responsiveness if it
+can be reached, but thus far I have only been able to test it upon house
+servants in California and those who have served us at different points
+in our trip. I have met persons who share my belief, their opinion
+being based on an acquaintance with the educated class.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MACAO, _March 28th_: We again took the steamer _Kian Tang_ for an
+eighty-mile run to Macao. The scene is quite as varied and pleasing as
+the passage from Hong-Kong to Canton. There were numerous islands, and,
+on the mainland, villages were seen with occasional forts which told the
+story of past invasions. Rice fields and great groves of mulberry trees
+indicated some of the chief industries of China. Macao is situated on
+the western shores of the estuary of the great Pearl River, sometimes
+called Canton River. It was founded early in the sixteenth century by
+the Portuguese, who were the first nation to invade the Eastern seas in
+the interest of commerce, having aided the Chinese during the invasion
+of pirates. As a reward, in the year 1557, the rocky peninsula was given
+to them, the Portuguese having previously made use of it as a
+trading-station and a naval depot.
+
+[Illustration: _The bund at Macao, called Praia Grande_]
+
+Macao is beautifully located high above the sea, and the approach is
+fine; the first impression is of a Mediterranean port, but on landing,
+the style of the buildings and the arrangement of the streets reminded
+me of Spain, while the blended coloring on the parapet and walls (which
+only time can give) was like Ponta Delgada of the Azores. Our hotel
+stood on an eminence overlooking the sea, indeed so near the sea that
+the moan and swish of the waves were always with us. The view from my
+balcony brought to mind the outlook from the old monastery at Amalfi,
+Italy. The whole atmosphere of the place was peaceful, and this was its
+chief attraction. We were there over Sunday, and the impression was
+deepened. Our arrival being early in the morning, we at once commenced
+our tour of observation, our guide seeming quite intelligent. We knew
+that the population of Macao was about eighty thousand, and, with the
+exception of a few Portuguese officials, entirely Chinese, so we were
+prepared for Chinese scenes, and it seemed quite consistent that we
+should first visit a large opium factory, this drug being one of the
+large exports of Macao. Here was explained the entire process of
+manufacture, from the poppy leaf to the final shipment; and for a
+further object lesson, we were taken into a room arranged for smoking
+opium, where sat three richly dressed Chinamen, half reclining; two had
+already passed into the temporary land of bliss and the third had the
+far-away look in his eyes that betokened semi-unconsciousness.
+
+The fourteenth-century facade of San Paulo greatly interested us aside
+from its architectural merit; it stands to-day, as it has stood for
+generations, the sole remnant of a fine cathedral which perished in an
+earthquake. It is like a sentinel pointing the way to a better life. The
+modern Catholic cathedral had no distinctive features. The English
+church was unpretentious, but the Protestant cemetery adjoining contains
+tablets sacred to the memory of many military and naval officers and
+also of missionaries and their families; I remember especially the stone
+erected to a Rev. Mr. Morrison, one of the early missionaries to China.
+
+Macao's chief claim to renown is its association with Camoens, the great
+Portuguese poet of the sixteenth century, whose epic poem, "The
+Lusiads," has been translated into most known languages. This poem was
+written during his ten years' residence in Macao, and the garden,
+grotto, and bust of Camoens are all a memorial tribute from a fellow
+countryman, Lorenco Marques. The garden and grotto were interesting, and
+the bronze bust which rests on a block whereon is engraved a poem to
+Macao by an English scholar, Sir John Bowring, is fine in design and
+execution. It is interesting to note that through "The Lusiads" Camoens
+was permitted to return to Portugal to end his days, he having been
+banished twice because his views were too outspoken. He died at Lisbon
+in 1580.
+
+The shops in Macao were of no special interest, and the street scenes
+lacked life and color. A long drive followed luncheon, first to the
+wonderful Bund, here called Praia Granda, which is semi-circular like
+the harbor, and the street fronting the water is lined with homes or
+business houses. Not one discordant note is here found. The drive is
+protected on the water side by a high stone coping, and it was being
+extended far beyond the original curve on the right-hand side, while at
+the left it leads out into a prolonged drive, first on the heights where
+are located residences and a club, then on to the country, until we
+reach the dividing line between a Portuguese possession and China. This
+is marked by an imposing arch. On the outskirts we visited several
+factories, one for weaving matting, another for the manufacture of every
+form of fire-works (a regular Fourth of July supply), and that the
+realism should not be missing, some small boys on the corner exploded a
+bunch of fire-crackers.
+
+There were other factories, but the most interesting was one devoted to
+the manufacture of silk thread from cocoons. It was very large, and only
+women and girls were there employed, and the deft way in which they
+caught the silk end from the cocoon (the latter is first placed in
+boiling water) and wound it on reels quite won our admiration. We were
+then taken to rooms where large twists of silk were placed ready for
+shipment to England, a package not over two feet square representing an
+investment of many thousands of dollars. The long drive to the hotel
+ended an eventful day; the evening was to furnish further excitement in
+a visit to some fan-tan parlors for which Macao is noted; indeed, it is
+the Monte Carlo of the Far East, and I fear this feature attracts more
+tourists than the beauty of the location. Certain it is that the
+steamers from Hong-Kong supply a large contingent that comes hither
+daily, since both fan-tan and lotteries are prohibited in Hong-Kong. All
+the parlors are under Chinese management and are extensively patronized.
+Some are said to be very luxurious in their appointments, being, of
+course, for the wealthy patrons, who do not, however, sit on the floor
+where the gambling is going on, but in a little room arranged with
+galleries all around. Their servants sit below and receive from them an
+indication as to certain numbers which may win or lose as the wheel of
+fortune turns. There are retiring-rooms for the opium smokers and
+separate places for serving refreshments. Such a condition represents
+the aristocratic status of the game. The reverse aspect is seen in the
+miserable "joints," which are too dreadful even to contemplate. Here is
+where Macao derives the revenue to carry on its fine improvements, and,
+as in Bangkok, there is no intimation of a desire to reform the evil.
+
+The Chinese have also invaded Burma, and intermarriage with the Burmese
+maidens is becoming general. Java is not exempt from their presence; in
+Siam they are very numerous; in Singapore they permeate everywhere; and
+in Macao they are possessors of the field. Truly their colonizing power
+is tremendous, and, unlike the British, they commence downward and work
+upward, the coolie ever being the advance guard.
+
+On Sunday morning there was no service at the English church, and so two
+of our party, by invitation of the missionary, Rev. Mr. Todd, attended a
+Chinese service held in rooms which were far from adequate for their
+needs. A Sunday-school of about two hundred children was just leaving as
+we entered, and their interested faces made me hopeful that this early
+influence might save them from the fan-tan attraction. The service was
+in Chinese, but the reverend gentleman, not being fluent in the Chinese
+language, first gave a paragraph in English, and this was translated by
+his wife into Chinese, which made it more interesting and assuredly more
+understandable to us. The audience paid the closest attention, and to my
+surprise their faces revealed an animated response. The women were
+dressed in the long black coats and loose trousers seen everywhere, but
+their hair ornaments were of gold, set with jewels, and their earrings
+jade or large pearls of great value. At the close of the service a man
+arose and evidently made a most impassioned appeal, judging by the
+intonation of his voice and the spontaneous applause he received. At the
+close Mr. Todd told us that it was an appeal for money with which to
+secure a better place of meeting, and that the Chinese women in front
+had already given two hundred dollars toward the movement.
+
+On Monday morning the steamer _Suitai_ carried us safely back to
+Hong-Kong. The harbor looked more attractive than ever, and we were glad
+to be again under English rule. On entering the hotel, an incident
+occurred that lent coloring to my "theory." In order to explain, I must
+go backward. On my first arrival at the hotel I had placed some
+photographs on my chiffonier, and among them was the one of little
+Katharine in the dog-cart with Omg, our American China boy, standing by
+her. The following morning on entering my room, I saw both of the men
+who were in charge of the cleaning gazing intently at the picture;
+turning around, one of them asked, "You know China boy?" I assented, and
+then told him something of the Chinamen who were employed in California.
+This seemed to please them both immensely. On my return from Canton and
+Macao, I walked down a long hall to my room and encountered several of
+the so-termed "boys," every one of whom smiled and greeted me. I was
+puzzled for a moment,--they had formerly seemed so impassive,--and then
+I remembered the morning's incident and inferred that all had seen the
+picture and had been told that I "knew China boy."
+
+Manila was in our original itinerary, and on our first arrival in
+Hong-Kong we were given our choice of a trip there or of the one we had
+enjoyed at Canton and Macao, as the visit to Manila would have afforded
+us but one day in Canton without even a glimpse of Macao. We thought we
+had chosen wisely, but that evening, when we heard the enthusiastic
+report of several who had just returned from Manila, I regretted that we
+could not have done both, which would be my advice to all future
+tourists.
+
+We had three more days in Hong-Kong. There were jinrikisha rides,
+shopping, and attendance at a Chinese theatre where much noise, vigorous
+action, and very little dramatic talent were in evidence. It was,
+however, interesting to watch the people, and to note their enthusiasm,
+with no impassiveness now, as well as the peculiar mixture of costumes.
+The business streets were full of life and action, and the shops
+contained a very tempting array of articles. One afternoon I took a
+jinrikisha ride on the Bund, past the great warehouses, or godowns as
+they are called, filled with goods or food stuffs for shipment to every
+port in China. Hong-Kong also aims to be a centre of supply for the
+shipping of the world that comes to her door, and her dockyards and
+shops are said to be equal to the demand. Somewhere I have seen this
+statement, "that if Hong-Kong could be a port of origin instead of a
+port of call, her commercial importance would equal that of London." The
+means of transportation are varied, including electric cars, carriages,
+jinrikishas, and sedan chairs. These may sometimes be seen following
+each other in succession. The streets show the cosmopolitan side of the
+city's life, as denizens of almost every clime assemble there, in the
+interest of business or of pleasure.
+
+The militia gives a dash of color to the scene,--the officers with their
+uniforms, and the ever-present Tommy Atkins in his khaki suit,--besides
+the wealthy Chinese in robes of brocade, the first of the kind we had
+seen, and the coolie in short jacket and blue knee trousers, the color
+being a badge of servitude. The English social life of the city is also
+said to be very agreeable to residents, or to those who remain long
+enough to participate in it, and I can now understand the enthusiasm of
+friends who once resided there. When we left Hong-Kong, we felt that we
+could have lingered much longer and been happy.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _The bund at Shanghai_]
+
+SHANGHAI: Our approach to Shanghai was through the Wusung River, as all
+large steamers are obliged to anchor at the bar. A launch was taken for
+a ride of sixteen miles. The river banks were picturesque, and little
+villages were succeeded by a vast amount of shipping, while factories
+and warehouses from an artistic standpoint spoiled a large space of the
+water front, the redeeming feature further on being a Public Garden, the
+Consulates, and a collection of fine business houses.
+
+We arrived at Shanghai on the morning of April 6th, and at once
+proceeded to the Hotel Astor; then we left almost immediately for a
+general drive, as we were to remain only for the day. We first visited
+the native quarter, where the streets were narrow; but, in comparison
+with Canton, they seemed much less crowded. We saw the exterior of some
+temples and an interesting tea-house and bazar which were similar in
+arrangement to those in Canton, and contained about the same articles.
+The native town is very tame in comparison with Canton. Before luncheon
+we visited two large silk houses, where we examined a remarkable display
+of all kinds of silks and embroideries. After luncheon we proceeded to
+take what is called the "Bubbling Well Drive," first exploring two
+interesting tea-houses, one called the "Mandarin Teahouse" being very
+elegant in all of its appointments. It had a garden arranged in
+conventional Chinese style, with a rockery, miniature lake, and dwarf
+trees. On the ride to Bubbling Well Road, we saw many beautiful homes of
+modern European style, Shanghai being considered a very desirable
+residence for foreigners. After visiting other points of interest, in
+the late afternoon we returned to our steamer, having had time only for
+a bird's-eye view of Shanghai and a brief outline of its places of
+interest.
+
+Shanghai is situated on the left bank of a stream called the Hiangpo, a
+tributary of the Yangtse River. Formerly there were an English
+settlement and an American settlement, the latter with no legal claims.
+These are now merged into the foreign settlement. There is also a French
+colony, with its numerous concessions.
+
+The history of the city may be divided into two sections, the
+pre-foreign period and the foreign period. In both there has been a
+continuous increase of prosperity and importance, due to furnishing
+unusual facilities for fostering trade. In the early years Shanghai was
+subject to frequent raids and disturbances, and in 1543 there was a
+general devastation. Foreign residence was sanctioned only as a result
+of the first Chinese war. The signing of the treaty of Nanking threw
+open Shanghai and four other ports to foreign trade, the latter being
+Swatow, Amoy, Foochow, and Ningpoo, but these have never acquired the
+importance of Shanghai, which has the advantage of being at the mouth of
+the Yangtse River.
+
+In 1849 a concession was granted to the French, but as late as 1850
+there were only one hundred and fifty-seven foreign residents, and
+twenty-five foreign firms doing business. Shanghai is distinctively a
+commercial city, with a flat location, no background, and an artificial
+foreground of solid rows of business buildings. The approach to the city
+reveals a succession of mills, docks, wharves, engineering works, and
+buildings of every description, except those of artistic and pleasing
+appearance. The principal streets, the Bund and the Nanking Road, run at
+right angles to each other, and the chief thoroughfares run parallel to
+these two. The Bund is broad, fronting the water, and is a popular
+thoroughfare. The Nanking Road deserves special mention. It begins as a
+narrow passage-way with foreign business houses on each side; it then
+widens, and has Chinese shops, with, later on, the recreation ground,
+Town Hall, and Library. Farther on it is known as Bubbling Well Road.
+
+Shanghai, as a residence for the European, is said to be the finest city
+in the East as regards modern conveniences, finer than any place east of
+Suez, but it is a city of contrasts. No centre can offer a wider choice
+for enjoyment,--the public recreation ground covering eight thousand
+acres. Within this enclosure is the race course, where cricket,
+football, hockey, tennis, golf, polo, and baseball are played; and
+numberless pavilions, dressing-rooms, and a swimming-bath are included
+in the adjacent building--all free to the public. There are in addition
+many clubs of a private nature, some social and others musical, and many
+of them owning fine buildings. Matters of education are not neglected,
+and the public schools even include kindergartens. There are likewise
+private schools, but the provisions for educating Chinese children are
+very inadequate, and mostly of the mission order. The Roman Catholic
+missions have excellent schools and well-equipped buildings. There is a
+fine American College, St. John's, that grants degrees. Some
+institutions are managed by the Chinese, the principal one being the
+Imperial Polytechnic College, which is housed in a fine block of
+buildings. There are also various organizations of an intellectual
+order, such as the Royal Asiatic Society, which is affiliated with a
+society of the same name in England; and an American Asiatic Society to
+further interests in the Far East. Architects, engineers, and
+missionaries likewise have their guilds.
+
+[Illustration: _Mogi Road at Nagasaki_]
+
+The religious life of the settlement is very diversified, and includes
+Jews, Parsees, Mohammedans, Greek and Roman Catholics, and members of
+the Anglican Church; the various forms of the Protestant Church are
+represented, and most of the missions have their headquarters here.
+
+We returned to our steamer in the evening, and sailed on for Kobe, our
+point of departure, but we had "stop-over privileges at Nagasaki." Our
+intervening day was passed mostly on deck, the weather being fine.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NAGASAKI, _April 8th_: We arrived at Nagasaki on the morning of April
+8th in a pouring rain which rather dampened our ardor, inasmuch as we
+had a full day's programme arranged. We went ashore, however, and
+proceeded to the Cliff House for a short time, but as the storm
+increased we returned to the steamer somewhat crestfallen. The _Korea_
+was taking on coal when we left, but on our return there was an ominous
+silence, and we learned that the workers, thoroughly drenched, had
+struck and that the vessel would be compelled to remain another day.
+Hope revived amongst us, and on the following morning the sun was
+shining brightly. This was the only time I have known a strike to be of
+benefit.
+
+The process of taking on coal was very peculiar. Ladders were placed up
+the sides of the steamer, relays of men and women were arranged in nine
+rows, counting from the bottom; coal was placed in baskets and passed up
+in fire-bucket fashion with the utmost quickness and dexterity. It
+continued incessantly until the work was completed. There were more
+women than men working, and they all wore pointed white handkerchiefs
+over their heads.
+
+A steam launch conveyed us to Nagasaki, and once there we took a
+jinrikisha for a memorable mountain ride of five miles, along a road
+called the Mogi. We ascended gradually from the sea-level, and soon the
+loveliest view was spread before us. On our right, looking downward,
+were the sea and the city rising in terraces from the water, the
+hillsides covered with foliage, all sparkling in the morning light; on
+our left, foothills, and beyond these the mountains. We stopped at a
+Japanese tea-house to rest the jinrikisha men, and soon after, we came
+to a point in the landscape said to be represented in the opera of
+"Madame Butterfly." Reaching the Mogi, we found another tea-house, and
+we all alighted and roamed around the point, where we had a magnificent,
+far-reaching panorama. The descent was quite as enjoyable, and
+altogether we voted the ride an entire success.
+
+We next visited some bazars. The temples were omitted, but I later
+visited them on my return trip to North China. Then we returned to the
+steamer for a late luncheon, and the bevy of animated coal-heavers were
+still at work. The day following was our last on the steamer, and our
+way lay through one portion of the Inland Sea, meaning a narrow
+waterway, the shores of which were visible on both sides.
+
+[Illustration: _The main street in Kobe_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+KOBE: We arrived at Kobe on the evening of April 10th, and fell at once
+into the grasp of the custom-house authorities, who proved, however,
+very lenient. Our valued Director here left us to go on to Yokohama and
+was succeeded by a Japanese guide, Mr. Macheeda, who took charge of four
+of the party, small groups and native guides being the policy in
+Japan.[6] Our abiding-place in Kobe was the Oriental Hotel.
+
+The following morning we went out early in jinrikishas for a general
+ride through Kobe, going first to the distant waterfall in the
+mountains, which really proved a fine spectacle. Next we visited
+temples, then some shops or bazars, and a Satsuma studio, where the
+whole art process was explained to us by a most courteous Japanese, who
+spoke English perfectly. All the appointments of the studio were truly
+Japanese, including the sliding windows and doors, the hardwood floor
+and the matting walls. Here tea and little cakes were served to us.
+
+We then went to another studio with a different interior. This was
+larger and more pretentious. Again the process was explained to us in
+the same courteous way, and we realized that we were now in a land where
+good manners prevailed. A heavy rain unfortunately set in, and we were
+compelled to return to the hotel.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ONOMICHI: The following day we took the train for Onomichi, arriving at
+our destination in the evening. Here we were to have a new experience,
+the hotel being strictly Japanese, with not a word of English spoken.
+First, we were asked to remove our shoes and put on slippers, the
+alternative being cotton coverings for our own shoes. I preferred the
+latter. The house was quite large, consisting of two stories. The first
+floor was, however, occupied by the family. The second floor was
+entirely devoted to our party, whose suite included several rooms with
+movable screens so arranged that one large room could be converted into
+two. There were sliding windows, paper taking the place of glass.
+
+[Illustration: _The fort and castle at Osaka_]
+
+Our beds were the futons, composed of dark red comforters, one below and
+one above us, with another hard roll for the head. There were no chairs
+in the sleeping-rooms, but washstands had been improvised, there being
+dressing-rooms outside of some of the rooms. Concession was made us in
+the improvised dining-room, a table and chairs being reserved for our
+special use. On one side of this room there was a slightly raised floor,
+and here were pretty little side tables and bronze ornaments. Our guide
+had very considerately brought some canned goods with him and also some
+bread; the family, however, furnished us with eggs and tea. The mother
+and two daughters were bright and sunny, as were the little Japanese
+maids who attended to the menial work. It was altogether a novel
+experience. The next morning, however, the rain was coming down in
+torrents, and there was no possibility of our taking a steamer for a
+trip of several hours to the sacred island of Miyajima, so we
+reluctantly boarded the morning train for Osaka, arriving there late in
+the afternoon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+OSAKA, _April 13th_: The next morning dawned brightly, and we left in
+jinrikishas for a general tour, first visiting the fort where stands a
+noted castle, very picturesque in appearance. We then visited the
+Exposition of Industrial Arts, which did not seem unlike an exposition
+at home in its general arrangements. The goods displayed, however, were
+very different. Then we had a ride along Cherry Blossom Avenue, the
+trees being laden with the pale pink flower. We visited bazars and noted
+the general aspect of the place, canals being a dominant characteristic
+of the landscape. We saw a particularly fine temple among many others.
+Osaka is a commercial city of great wealth and is more celebrated from a
+business point of view than from its artistic aspect.
+
+After luncheon we went to Yaba Meczan's Satsuma studio. This artist is
+celebrated, having taken prizes at both the Chicago and St. Louis
+Expositions, and his work surpassed any I had ever seen. The decoration
+on some of the vases was so fine that it required a glass to bring out
+the full and minute detail. In designing and decorating these vases the
+work has to be done with a magnifying glass, which is a very severe
+strain on the eyes. We then proceeded up what is called Theatre Street,
+so named because of the situation of several playhouses in the midst of
+prominent shops. Banners and signs were displayed in every available
+space, all of different colors, and the general effect was very unusual
+as they floated in the breeze. Later in the afternoon we took a train
+for Kyoto.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+KYOTO, _April 15th_: The following morning another heavy rain greeted
+us. We were now in the Japanese city which retains more of the old life
+and customs than any other, not having been spoiled as yet by modern
+innovations. The bad weather abating in the afternoon, we went to the
+temple Nishi Otani. This is situated on quite an eminence. We crossed a
+stone bridge spanning a lotus pond, and walked up an inclined way paved
+with granite, a flight of steps leading to the handsome main gate which
+faces a strikingly carved two-storied structure. We took our places on
+the steps and awaited the arrival of the procession of Buddhist priests,
+this being the chief object of our visit. They came in large numbers,
+walking two by two, and arrayed in the most gorgeous brocades, no two
+being of the same pattern. Around the waist they wore wide sashes of
+equal richness and beauty, and the effect was truly very striking, as
+they walked up the hill. This was one of the features of the rite of
+commemoration, the ceremonies continuing through the week. We then
+visited some shops, of which there are a large number, all of them very
+interesting.
+
+[Illustration: _The rapids near Kyoto_]
+
+[Illustration: _Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto_]
+
+Shintoism is the State religion, and the following morning we visited
+one of the temples, named Kitano Tenjin. Entering through the great
+stone torii or gateway, we found stone lanterns, together with stone and
+bronze bulls presented by devotees. Another torii and a couple of
+two-storied gates were passed through, the last being called the Gate of
+the Three Luminaries, or the Sun, Moon, and Stars. This was the entrance
+to one side of the square, the other three sides being formed of
+colonnades. It might be well to explain that a torii consists of two
+upright columns several feet apart. At the top is a cross-bar extending
+out about one foot on each side and two feet lower than the top of the
+columns.
+
+There were many other details noted by us, and it was perhaps the most
+effective Shinto temple that we saw. We then visited Kinkakuji, more
+commonly called the "Golden Pavilion." This is Buddhist in character,
+and there is a monastery surrounded by a fine garden in which is another
+pavilion. The garden was artistic, in the middle of which is a lake with
+pine-clad shores and pine-clad islets; this indeed seemed unusual so
+near a large city. The lake is usually filled with a flowering plant
+called junsai and is stocked with carp, which always appear on the
+approach of visitors, expecting to be fed.
+
+All the ancient buildings have disappeared except the Pavilion, which
+was restored in 1906. It stands on the water's edge and is
+three-storied. Each floor is furnished with statuettes of different
+saints and has mural decorations by Kano Masanobu. There are very
+unusual features connected with this temple. The so-called apartments
+are in two sets,--one attached to the main building with pictorial
+sliding screens symbolic of Chinese sages and other subjects by Kano.
+There are also drawings of birds and trees, and ornaments done by
+celebrated artists. Folding screens are in common use. One artistic
+group represents three religious teachers, Confucius, Buddha, and Lao
+Tze. After showing these art treasures to us the priests served tea,
+while we sat around in true Japanese style.
+
+[Illustration: _The Golden Pavilion_]
+
+After luncheon we went to still another very interesting Buddhist
+temple, Kiyomizu-dera. Kyoto abounds in fine temples. We left our
+jinrikishas at the foot of the hill and walked up a long, high lane
+called Teapot Street because in all the little shops bordering the
+thoroughfare china and teapots are displayed, forming the favorite
+purchases of the country people who frequent this temple. The building
+is situated in a striking position and commands a view of the entire
+city. The two-storied gateway at the top of the steps was restored in
+1897. Outside this gate are two pagodas, each three-storied, and the
+large green bell, dating from 1624. We then passed up through a
+colonnade to the main temple, whose rough, hewn columns and bare floor
+are most unusual. The whole style is original and unique. The great
+festival day here is on the 17th of August, when a classic concert is
+given, the musicians being dressed in various unique costumes. They are
+seated opposite each other in the wings like the two sides of a choir. A
+dancing stage extends the whole length of its front, and this opens
+into a hall full of _ex-voto_ pictures, some of which possess great
+artistic merit. Directly behind this main temple are several other
+temples and an eleven-storied pagoda which it is impossible to describe
+here adequately.
+
+On our homeward way we visited the Art Museum. This and the museum at
+Nara contain the very best collections of early Japanese statuary. The
+exhibits have been taken or borrowed from time to time from various
+Buddhist temples in Kyoto and the surrounding provinces. Some date from
+the seventh and eighth centuries, when Buddhist carving was at the
+height of its excellence. There are also screens, ancient manuscripts,
+swords, armor, musical instruments, coins, imperial robes, and
+miscellaneous articles.
+
+To vary the programme a little, we made an excursion on the following
+day to Lake Biwa, some miles distant. This is a very celebrated body of
+water in Japan. We had our choice between returning to Kyoto by the more
+exciting way of the canal with its long tunnels or going to Otsu. We
+chose the latter.
+
+[Illustration: _The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa_]
+
+Near Otsu there is the largest pine tree in the world, and it has been
+trained in the peculiar conventional manner employed by the Japanese.
+Here we had a picnic luncheon and then drove some distance to the
+heights of Otsu, where one hundred and thirty monasteries and temples
+are said to be grouped. We walked up the incline, passing many temples
+and seeing a very ancient bronze bell of great historic interest.
+Descending, we went through the village of Otsu, which has quite a
+reputation, since it was the scene of what might have been a very
+serious accident to the present Emperor of Russia, then czarevitch. He
+was accompanied by Prince George of Greece, now King George, when
+savagely attacked by an insane man. Certain disaster would have followed
+had it not been for the presence of mind of the Prince.
+
+We reached Kyoto at 5 P.M., having had a long, though extremely
+delightful day. Excursions being in order, we went the next day to
+"shoot the rapids ending at Arashi-yama." We had various means of
+transportation during the day, jinrikishas, trains, and a short railway
+trip which was highly picturesque, the line running along just above the
+dashing river. At Hozu we took the boat for the descent of the rapids
+down to the landing-place of Arashi-yama, and this was a most exciting
+experience, the passage taking about an hour and a half. Great care had
+to be observed by the pilots of the boats, as there were several parties
+going down and many others returning. The shores of the river were very
+interesting, being high wooded hills which were abloom. Arashi-yama is
+famous for its cherry blossoms. We had a picnic luncheon here and
+returned to Kyoto by train.
+
+On Easter Sunday I attended a union service, but afterwards learned that
+there was a special commemoration at St. Mary's, and that the Episcopal
+Bishop Partridge was at the hotel. There seemed to be a great deal of
+friendly feeling between the different religious denominations in Kyoto;
+a little booklet given us at the union service containing information
+with regard to all the churches, including the Episcopal. Easter
+afternoon we attended a remarkable Buddhist ceremony in the Chroin
+Temple on a high hill. At least seventy-five priests were in attendance,
+all arrayed in their gorgeous brocaded robes and sitting in parallel
+lines opposite each other. It seemed to be an intoned service. We were
+separated from the officiants by an anteroom with a high railing, but we
+could observe all that was going on. This was a part of the ceremonial
+of the week to which I referred in connection with the Buddhist
+procession. After watching for a while, we walked about and saw several
+adjacent temples, marked by their spaciousness.
+
+A visit to the Nijo Castle, by permit, was of great interest. It dates
+from 1601, and was built by Ieyasu of Nikko memory for his use when
+visiting Kyoto. It has even in modern times considerable historical
+interest, as it was here, on April 6, 1868, that the Emperor, on
+obtaining his ancestral rights by the revolution then in progress, met
+the Council of State and swore to grant a deliberative assembly and to
+decide all measures by public opinion. For a long period Nijo Castle was
+used by the prefecture and was greatly damaged. Since 1883, it has been
+one of the Imperial Summer palaces. The apartments of the castle are
+very beautiful; the sliding screens between the rooms and the wooden
+doors separating the different sets of apartments are all adorned with
+paintings of flowers, birds, and the like, done by artists of the Kano
+School. There is beautiful metal work, and the reception hall is
+decorated with representations of street life in Kyoto and other cities.
+The ceiling is lacquered.
+
+We also procured a permit to visit the Imperial Palace, which is placed
+in a large garden like a park. This was spacious, but not so artistic as
+Nijo; there were many different buildings. We visited several, one known
+as the Temple of 33,333 Buddhas, and after gazing at the long array of
+walls and corridors with their ornaments, we accepted the estimate as
+accurate. One afternoon the great Shinto procession of the year was in
+progress. We took jinrikishas for quite a long ride, and then arrived at
+a small suburb of Kyoto, where we had places engaged on the upper
+gallery of a house. There were great crowds of people, and we waited a
+long time before the arrival of the first shrine. There were five in
+all. These shrines were large and ornamental, with a great deal of gilt
+about them, and they were placed on poles borne upon the shoulders of
+men. Four other small shrines followed, and before the pageant was over,
+the afternoon was nearly consumed. This procession was on its way to the
+great Temple of Inari, several miles distant.
+
+One morning we devoted to visiting two cloisonne studios and some curio
+shops. The first studio, Nakamura's, was very artistically arranged; one
+large room encircled a miniature garden laid out in true Japanese style
+with dwarf trees, rockeries, and a tiny little lake. We saw the whole
+process of manufacture and it was also explained to us.[7] The specimens
+were very rare and beautiful. Tea and little cakes were served and great
+courtesy extended to us. The second studio was similar to this, but a
+little larger, and again we saw the garden, and again tea was served.
+Several interesting curio shops were visited, and we then went to the
+large establishment of Yamanaka, who had fine collections at the Chicago
+and St. Louis Expositions. We then went over some silk stores, the
+manufacture of silk being the chief industry; one may purchase all kinds
+of embroidered goods.
+
+[Illustration: _Kasuga Temple_]
+
+The annual Cherry Blossom Dance--repeated at intervals for one
+week--occurred at this time. It is preceded by a ceremonial tea. We went
+at five in the afternoon and were seated around the sides of a large
+room. Special places were arranged for the pouring of tea, and presently
+a very pretty Japanese girl appeared and proceeded to heat the water,
+measure out the tea, put it in the teapot, with many other movements,
+pouring a little water on it, all in the most deliberate manner, and
+finally the preliminaries were over, and three pretty little maidens
+passed the tea around. Another girl in a bright kimono appeared and went
+through the process again. This was repeated three or four times. We
+then adjourned to a very large room, like a small theatre, with a
+gallery at the back, in which we sat. Opposite us was a wide stage, and
+on either side was arranged a platform about two feet wide, extending
+the whole length of the room. Here sat the musicians dressed as geisha
+girls, and the dancers, called Maiko, were also clad in the same manner,
+with long artistic kimonos and flowers in their hair. The dancers
+entered and proceeded to the stage; then commenced a slow and measured
+tread, every movement being graceful. Cherry blossoms were everywhere,
+even forming the decorations on the wall. Different figures were
+repeated, but all in that deliberate manner, very little like dancing
+but more like a devotional exercise. We sat there for about an hour, but
+cannot truthfully say that we enjoyed the music, as it was somewhat
+discordant.
+
+Our last day in Kyoto was a very full one. We visited shops in the
+morning, and in the afternoon went quite a distance to see a historical
+procession. We were seated in about the same manner as previously
+described. Those who took part in the procession were geisha girls and
+novitiates who were to be educated as future geisha girls, their parents
+giving them over to the instructors at an early age. This was a very
+interesting pageant. First only one or two would appear in a historical
+costume of very rich brocade, the hair most elaborately dressed with the
+ornaments peculiar to that particular period. Next two little girls
+would appear, also dressed in historical costumes. Then, after a
+considerable pause, there followed another geisha girl; and thus the
+procession continued for over an hour. We did not realize until the day
+following that most of the persons who took part were of questionable
+morals.
+
+In the evening we attended a Japanese theatre. The play was a historical
+tragedy called "The Forty-seven Ronans." The stage was well arranged
+and the action very good; it was far more interesting than the Chinese
+theatre previously described.
+
+During the week a large Collver party of eighteen arrived at the hotel;
+they were later to go to North China and by the Trans-Siberian route to
+Russia. Their Director gave a Japanese dinner in which we were included,
+Mr. Burton Holmes and his friend being the only other guests present.
+The dining-room was in the Japanese portion of the hotel, arranged with
+rugs and draperies covering the hardwood floors in quite an artistic
+manner, and at the sides were placed cushions on which we were supposed
+to sit or kneel. The formal exercises were mostly conducted by geisha
+and Maiko girls, three officiating as musicians, several more dancing,
+and others serving as attendants. Everything was done in the most
+measured manner. First, boxes were placed before us containing four
+articles, all dishes of peculiar concoctions. These were intended, we
+imagined, for us to look at for a time until the musicians and dancers
+appeared. The programme was opened with a musical number, which was
+anything but musical; the dancers then took their positions and went
+through the usual formal measures. There was more music, then another
+dance. This was repeated three or four times. The attendant geisha
+girls were seated at intervals in front of the guests.
+
+At a certain signal the music and dancing ceased, and trays were brought
+us on which were soup (we imagined the famous bird's-nest), a cup of
+sake, two more peculiar dishes, and also chopsticks! By this time the
+kneeling process had become rather painful, and I availed myself of the
+cup of sake, feeling I needed some stimulant. This was the only
+refreshment I tried, but some of the party had the courage to experiment
+further. After some deliberation and a little more converse, we arose
+from our repast and proceeded to the hotel dining-room, where a
+substantial dinner was served us at nine o'clock. This was altogether
+the most unique affair of the week and greatly enjoyed by all. The eight
+days in Kyoto had flown and we would gladly have remained longer. The
+atmosphere of the place was so truly of the past, the temples so very
+interesting, and the quaint customs of the olden times so well retained,
+that it gave a peculiar charm to the place.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NARA, _April 23d_: A day's excursion to Nara was planned, but a heavy
+rain somewhat marred our enjoyment. Nara was once a place of much
+importance, the capital of Japan during seven reigns, stretching from
+709 to 784 A.D. Its chief attraction now is the great natural beauty of
+the place, some fine temples, and a deer park. Kasuga is a noted Shinto
+temple. The approach is through the celebrated grounds where were seen
+many deer, apparently very tame. A fine avenue of cryptomerias added
+much to the dignity of the approach. The temple stands at the end of a
+long avenue of stone lanterns, some of which are lighted every night.
+The main temple is painted red, with brass lanterns, and surrounded by
+cryptomerias. A religious dance, which is held in a building near by, is
+one of the many attractive features of this temple. The dress of the
+dancers is peculiar, composed of a wide red divided skirt, a white
+under-garment, and a long gauze mantle. The hair is worn in a thick
+tress down the back, a chaplet of flowers is on the forehead, the face
+very much powdered, and in the hands are carried either the branches of
+a tree or some tiny bells which are swayed back and forth in a measured
+manner. The orchestra consists of three priests.
+
+There is a fine Buddhist temple, renovated in 1898. It is built on the
+side of a hill; a flight of steps leads up to it and the whole front is
+covered with metal lanterns which produce a weird effect. Not far
+distant is a large temple which contains a bronze Buddha called
+Dai-butsu. When we saw it, the temple was in a chaotic condition,
+undergoing renovation. The height of the Buddha is fifty-three and
+one-half feet; the face is sixteen feet long and nine and one-half feet
+broad. It is in a sitting position, with right hand uplifted. Nara has a
+fine museum, well equipped for the study of early Japanese religions.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+YAMADA, _April 23d_: In the afternoon we left for Yamada, the city of
+the celebrated Temple of Ise. On arriving, we took quite a drive up the
+mountain side to Furuichi and to the Goni-Kwai Hotel, a large,
+beautifully situated Japanese hostelry with a European department. This
+consisted of eight rooms, furnished comfortably in European style, even
+with grates, but we had the novelty of Japanese environment as we walked
+down the corridors and passed little Japanese rooms with sliding screens
+and open windows. In the morning, we walked up the hill and had a
+magnificent view; we left early in jinrikishas for a long day's
+programme. First we went through the town, the shops forming part of a
+long street, with open fronts and interiors. We then crossed a bridge to
+a suburb which contained the celebrated Temple of Ise. We proceeded up a
+long avenue, containing torii No. 1, torii No. 2, and torii No. 3,
+entering what is called the inner Temple of Ise, which, like all Shinto
+places of worship, is very plain on the exterior. We were not
+permitted to enter, but were obliged to look through an open enclosure.
+Our Japanese guide knelt down, bowed, and clapped his hands three times,
+which is the act of devotion of all Shintoites on their approaching any
+temple. In the rear there was another temple which we saw only from the
+outside; the guide told us that at this shrine Marquis Ito came to offer
+thanks for the success of the Chinese-Japanese war in 1894, and that
+Admiral Togo also came at the close of the Russian-Japanese war. It is
+estimated that at least half a million pilgrims repair annually to the
+Temple of Ise, but the educated class seldom visits the place,--perhaps
+not more than once in a lifetime.
+
+[Illustration: _The Temple of Ise (Yamada)_]
+
+We then drove eight miles to Futami, a seaside resort with a pretty
+Japanese tea-house fronting the water. Here is a peculiar formation of
+rock called "The Husband and Wife Rocks," connected by a chain. The
+bazar is quite interesting, and we had our luncheon at the tea-house,
+served in Japanese style, which means that we would have had nothing but
+tea if our thoughtful guide had not brought a basket with us. The return
+trip of eight miles was over a little different route, more picturesque
+even than the first. Arriving at Yamada, we went to the outer Temple of
+Ise. Here, as in the inner temple, there is a large house for sacred
+dances.
+
+Many tea-houses in Yamada furnish music during the evening. We visited
+a very artistic place, said to be five hundred years old, and there we
+saw one of the sacred dances peculiar to that province.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NAGOYA, _April 25th_: We left in the morning for Nagoya, and were guests
+at the Nagoya Hotel. This is a flourishing, commercial city, with one of
+the longest and widest streets we had seen in Japan. The garrison
+occupies the castle, whose approach is the same as in the olden
+time--through gates and past moats. This castle was erected in 1610 by
+twenty great feudal lords to serve as a residence for Ieyasu's son. Like
+other Japanese castles, it is a wooden building, standing on immense
+walls which are eighteen feet thick. The castle has been taken by the
+Imperial household and is preserved as a monument of historical
+interest. The two golden dolphins with silver eyes which can be seen
+glittering all over the city from the top of the five-story donjon were
+made in 1610 at the expense of the celebrated general, Kato Kiyomosa,
+who also built the donjon, or keep.
+
+[Illustration: _Nagoya Castle_]
+
+The apartments of the castle are very beautiful. The sliding screens
+between the rooms and the wooden doors separating the different suites
+are all adorned with paintings of flowers and birds. Leaving these
+apartments, we visited the historic donjon, a gloomy building of stone
+on the exterior, but furnished with wooden staircases within. The fifth
+story commands an extensive view of the town, the sea, and the vast
+plain,--rice-fields and mountains stretching in the distance. The roofs
+of the keep are of copper, and its massive gates are cased in iron.
+
+Nagoya is noted for its manufacture of porcelain and cloisonne. There is
+one celebrated Buddhist temple, Higashi Hongwanji, and the Museum. There
+are also extensive parks and parade grounds. In the evening of our stay
+there, the unexpected occurred. We had known for some time of the
+approaching Imperial Cherry Blossom Garden Party at Tokio. A telegram
+arrived, stating that our invitations awaited us in Yokohama; we were
+most fortunate, since they were in great demand. A hurried consultation
+followed, but as the remainder of the party expected to sail for San
+Francisco on May 13th, they declined to change their programme, while I
+accepted the invitation, having two weeks' more time in Japan during
+June; I regretfully bade adieu to the party, and the following morning
+proceeded to Yokohama.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+YOKOHAMA, _April 26th_: The next two weeks I was to be thrown upon my
+own responsibility. I arrived at Yokohama in the evening and
+anticipated a departure the following morning for Tokio. A pouring
+rain, however, caused an unexpected postponement. There were many
+disappointed guests in the Tokio hotels which were crowded in view of
+the great annual event. This is said to be very beautiful in all its
+appointments, the profusion of cherry blossoms being an attraction, as
+is the presence of the Emperor and Empress. The rain abating at noon,
+the grounds of the Crown Prince's palace were opened and the persons who
+were in Tokio availed themselves of the privilege of visiting them. A
+fine collation was served. The Emperor and Empress, however, did not
+appear, and the usual extremely formal ceremonies were dispensed with.
+It is the custom to give the inmates of the hospitals in Tokio a rare
+feast from what is left of the banquet. I had a busy day in Yokohama,
+which I found an attractive modern city, with beautiful shops, pleasant
+hotels, and a great crowd of visitors. I left early the following
+morning, April 28th, for Nikko.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NIKKO, _April 28th_: The sky was overcast when we started, and before
+noon there was a heavy rain which prevented any enjoyment of the really
+fine landscape. The Japanese proverb in substance runs: "Do not use the
+word 'magnificent' until you have seen Nikko." This had been ringing in
+my ears all the way, and to be compelled to proceed through the long
+street of the village in a closed jinrikisha was tantalizing. The Nikko
+Hotel was to have been my destination, but I met friends on the train
+and was persuaded to accompany them to the new Kanaya Hotel, situated
+nearer the village on a height. My programme in Nikko could only include
+three days; hence I decided that a study of the various temples, a
+general view of the city, and an excursion to Lake Chuzenji must
+suffice.
+
+The following morning the sun was shining, and I departed early to visit
+the temples. The way lay down to the river Daiya-gawa. From the bridge
+in actual use and at a short distance I beheld the "Red Bridge,"
+formerly lacquered and having brass ornaments, sacred to royal use only,
+and held in veneration by the Japanese. A long avenue of cryptomerias
+followed. This tree is like the redwood of California when used in the
+interior of a building; indeed, after a long period of time, the
+coloring is precisely the same. This I noticed in the Imperial palaces
+at Kyoto.
+
+I walked up the avenue with a feeling of awe, and it seemed as if the
+whole atmosphere of Nikko was surcharged with an element of sanctity,
+and that no one could gaze on the mountains and the groves of
+cryptomerias without being somewhat better than before. At the end of
+the avenue the perspective is wonderful, for one looks through a series
+of great stone toriis, gray with age, and sees along the way objects
+that are of interest, a five-story pagoda being the most striking. This
+approach is to the great Temple of Ieyasu, the illustrious Shogun and
+founder of the Tokugawa dynasty and, like the other great temple and
+mausoleum of his grandson, Iemitzu (farther on), was erected in the
+seventeenth century, at a time when the art of building shrines was at
+its perfection, as was the work in lacquer and bronze, wood carving and
+decorative painting. Every detail is perfect, and the great predominance
+of red and gold lacquer with its setting of green produced a striking
+effect, but without being in the least garish. Indeed, the keynote to
+all the buildings and interiors we have seen in Japan, of any age
+whatsoever, has been chasteness of design and harmony. If we sometimes
+find a discordant note in modern Japanese art, I fear Western taste has
+had some influence, if it be true that the producer ever seeks to please
+the purchaser.
+
+[Illustration: _The way to the Temple, Ieyasu_]
+
+[Illustration: _Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple_]
+
+With all this perfection on every side, it becomes even more difficult
+to give any adequate description, so that an outline comprising only
+general details will be suggested. A quotation explains my position
+fully. Dr. Dresser once wrote: "Any words that I can use must fail to
+convey any adequate idea of the consciousness of the work, the
+loveliness of the compositions, the harmoniousness of the colors, and
+the beauty of the surroundings here before me; and yet the adjectives
+which I have tried to heap one upon another, in the hope of conveying to
+the reader what I--an architect and ornamentist--feel when contemplating
+these matchless shrines, must appear, I am afraid, altogether
+unreasonable." The difficulty is further added to by the fact that there
+are in all six groups of temples with numerous associated buildings and
+gateways in the near vicinity, although Ieyasu and Iemitzu are the most
+famous.
+
+The approach to Ieyasu Temple is most unusual. Within the two courts,
+each with toriis and stone steps, are many notable adjuncts to the
+temples, the five-story pagoda, one hundred and four feet high, being a
+marvel of rich lacquered walls. It has peculiar brass-trimmed roofs and
+bells hanging from every angle. Three artistic buildings are used as
+storehouses, where articles employed in worship, pictures, and many
+treasures of Ieyasu are deposited. Near by is a finely carved gateway
+leading to a beautiful carved water cistern which is cut out of one
+solid piece of granite and sheltered by a roof supported on twelve
+square pillars of stone, all erected in 1618. A beautifully decorated
+building behind this is the depository for the complete collection of
+the Buddhist scriptures, contained in a fine revolving octagonal
+bookcase with red lacquered panels and gilt pillars. In the centre of
+this court stands a fine bronze torii. A flight of steps gives access to
+the second court. Just inside of this are two stone lions in the act of
+leaping down; on the right stand a bell tower, a bronze candelabrum
+presented by the King of Loochoo, and another bell presented by the King
+of Korea; there is also a bronze candelabrum from Holland. This
+diversity of gifts indicates the general interest at that time in this
+shrine. All of these articles are of very unusual style of workmanship.
+
+At the left extremity of this same platform stands the Temple of
+Wakushi, dedicated to the patron saint of Ieyasu, for which reason its
+Buddhist emblems have been left intact. The building is a blaze of gold
+and harmonious colors. Stone steps lead up to the exquisitely beautiful
+gate called Yomei-mon; it has a fence on each side. Passing through the
+gateway, we entered the third court, in which the Buddhist priests used
+to offer liturgies on the occasions of the two great annual festivals.
+In this court are also two buildings, one containing a stage for the
+performance of the sacred dance, and the other an altar for burning the
+fragrant cedar while prayers were recited. Next we have the Karu-mon
+or Chinese gate. It gives admittance to the main shrines. The folding
+doors of the oratory are lavishly decorated with arabesques of peonies,
+in gilt relief.
+
+[Illustration: _A five-story pagoda_]
+
+The chapel is a large matted room, forty-two feet long by twenty-seven
+feet deep, with an antechamber at each end. The chapel and the
+antechambers are all very profusely decorated with pictures on the
+walls, with carved panels and painted ceilings. The Holy of Holies of
+this temple is accessible to the public only by special permit. It is
+composed of three chambers, and here Japanese Buddhist art is exhibited
+in its perfection,--a blaze of gold and color, with its elaborate
+paintings of court personages, its precious woods, inlaid and carved,
+and its richly lacquered pillars and splendid metal work--the whole a
+marvel of detail, all the more marvellous because it is in perfect
+preservation. Now that it has been changed into a Shinto shrine and is
+under the patronage of the Government, the Buddhas and attendant Buddhas
+of the olden time are no longer to be seen.
+
+An old mossy staircase and a time-worn pavement lead to Ieyasu's tomb,
+before which stand two long tables. Here are placed the usual bronze
+ornaments, consisting of a stork, an incense burner, and a vase of
+bronze lotus flowers. The tomb, shaped like a small pagoda, has a
+single bronze casting of a light color, produced, it is said, by a
+mixture of gold. Leaving the mausoleum, I passed down through the courts
+and gateways until I came to the avenue of cryptomerias, visiting a
+number of temples on the way, and finally I reached Iemitzu's temple. A
+massive stone staircase and a fine gateway are among the many details of
+an attractive exterior that claim attention. The temple is much less
+magnificent than Ieyasu's, but a more perfect representation of the
+Buddhist art, inasmuch as here can be seen the interior as it was
+originally. After the restoration in 1886, the interiors of all the
+other temples were changed to meet the requirements of the Shinto faith,
+that being the State religion. The tomb is reached by a flight of steps
+running up the side of the wall. It is of the same general style as that
+of Ieyasu. In the afternoon a walk back of the temple of Ieyasu revealed
+more stone lanterns, shrines, and toriis.
+
+At Nikko the homes are attractive, with their open space and their
+verandas. The Park and Botanical Garden are also not without interest.
+Sometimes a shrine could be seen, and with the inmates dressed in pretty
+kimonos, it was truly a fascinating picture, unlike anything that had
+elsewhere struck our fancy. The invariable smile, bow, and courtesy that
+always greet you place a finishing and charming touch to the whole.
+
+[Illustration: _The gate called Yomei-mon_]
+
+The bazar or long street of shops was enticing, with so many souvenirs
+to choose from. The thoroughfare itself presented a never-ending
+panorama of carts, packhorses, natives, pilgrims, and tourists.
+
+There were several tempting excursions of two or three miles each, the
+most celebrated of which was to Lake Chuzenji, eight miles distant. This
+required an early morning departure in a jinrikisha. The ride there was
+through a region which affords a fine example of the Japanese method of
+cultivating the soil. The little homes were attractive. Potatoes, rice,
+and millet seemed to be the principal crops. Chuzenji Lake is a marvel
+of beauty, with its many walks along the shore. Luncheon was served at
+the hotel. It is estimated that ten thousand pilgrims come to the
+village during July and August to make the ascent to the sacred
+mountain, Nantaisan, two thousand feet above the sea-level. This is not
+so very difficult, since at points there are stairways that give ready
+access. Shrines and tea-houses are stationed all along the road, as the
+Japanese never neglect creature comforts. Eight miles further on is
+situated Yunoto village and the lake which bears the same name and is
+celebrated for its hot springs. This place is said to be as attractive
+as Lake Chuzenji. We left Nikko on an early morning train with a strong
+desire some day to return and make a more protracted stay.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TOKIO, _April 30th_: Leaving Nikko, with an altitude of two thousand
+feet higher than the sea, for Tokio, one hundred miles distant and at
+sea-level, was a decided drop. The day was bright and the views from the
+car window gave one an ever-varying panorama, consisting of mountains, a
+long avenue of tall cryptomerias that seemed to extend for miles,
+cultivated fields, and luxuriant vegetation freshened by the recent
+rain. Nature put forth her loveliest Spring tints, to which cherry
+blossoms ever and anon gave a touch of color. Arriving at Tokio in the
+afternoon, and going to the Imperial Hotel, I had a two days' reunion
+with eight of the "party" who had already arrived there. We took a
+general drive on the first afternoon, past the palace built on the ruins
+of the old Shogun palace, in its new guise a long rambling building of
+yellow brick. The old gateways with their towers were at the front
+entrance and were a feature of the scene. The arrangement of the rooms
+in the interior of the palace was said to be pleasing, the dining-room
+being unusually large. The walls and decorations are also fine, but the
+furnishings, a mixture of Japanese and European styles, are not so
+harmonious. We also passed the Crown Prince's palace, and then went on
+from Hibiya Park to the street on which are situated the brick buildings
+of the Naval Department, the Judicial Department, and the Courts of
+Justice.
+
+[Illustration: _The Imperial Palace at Tokio_]
+
+We saw the Russian Embassy, the Chinese Legation, and also some palaces
+and residences of many officers and foreign embassies. This
+neighborhood, called Nagata-cha, is the most fashionable in Tokio. Near
+the palace lies a garden planted with azaleas, and also containing some
+trellises wholly covered in season with wistaria. We also passed a fine
+Shinto temple and several statues, and, on an eminence, saw the Russian
+Cathedral, consecrated in 1891.
+
+The following morning we went to Shiba Park. Until 1887 this formed the
+grounds of a great Buddhist temple, and here are still preserved the
+mortuary temples of several Tokugawa Shoguns, Ieyasu, the founder of
+that dynasty, having chosen it as the temple where the funeral tablets
+of himself and of his descendants should be enshrined. There are several
+temples in the park, and they rank among the chief marvels of Japanese
+art. They are somewhat after the style of the temples at Nikko. All of
+them have a wonderful setting of green, the many fine trees and the
+beautiful park forming an excellent background. Each of these mortuary
+temples consists of three parts, an outer oratory, a connecting
+gallery, and an inner sanctuary. In each of these the decorations are of
+gilt and different colors, with elaborate patterns which are almost
+dazzling to the eye.
+
+On one occasion we visited Ueno Park, famed for its temples and tombs of
+the Shoguns; it is a most popular resort in Tokio, and is celebrated for
+its display of cherry blossoms in the month of April, during which
+season there are held gala times. Six Shoguns, members of the Tokugawa
+family, lie buried at Ueno. In general style the tombs here resemble
+those at Shiba Park.
+
+There are many objects of interest in Ueno Park other than its temples.
+One is the bronze image of Buddha, twenty-one and a half feet high,
+known as Dai-butsu, near which is a massive torii. We passed along an
+avenue of stately cryptomerias where stands an ancient pagoda. There is
+also a long row of very large stone lanterns, presented as a tribute to
+the memory of the Shogun, Ieyasu. While in Ueno Park the attendant
+pointed out, in a small enclosure, two diminutive trees,--a hinoki,
+planted by General Grant, and a magnolia by Mrs. Grant during their
+visit to Tokio.
+
+The Ueno Museum proved interesting, particularly in the historical and
+archaeological departments. Near the Museum is a public library and
+reading-room--the largest in the Empire. In the distance we saw the
+Imperial University, which has a very high reputation, even foreign
+students attending there for the purpose of studying art.
+
+[Illustration: _Court of the Temple Shiba at Tokio_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ASAKUSA: The district of Asakusa possesses a fine park, and here also is
+the spacious Temple of Higashi Hongwanji, the chief religious edifice of
+the Monto sect of Buddhists. It is very plain in its architecture, but
+is noted principally for its proportions. The area of the matted floor
+of the nave alone is one hundred and fifty mats, and around the front
+and sides is a wooden aisle one hundred and twelve feet wide.
+
+Tokio has many other temples and parks, but of these, as I have said,
+Ueno is the most popular; around us were crowds of gayly dressed grown
+people and children, all in holiday attire; various games for adults and
+children were in progress, and there was a tea-house where refreshments
+were being served. To me this appeared in very truth a park for the
+people.
+
+The Botanical Garden is also quite interesting. A long, imposing street
+led down to it from Ueno Park, and on this were situated the principal
+shops of the city, with curio nooks in abundance. These, of course, were
+larger and more pretentious than the bazars spoken of elsewhere, some
+of them being three stories in height, the first of the kind we had seen
+in Japan. Taken as a whole, Tokio is a large, populous city, with a
+bright future before it. I now was obliged to turn my face toward
+Yokohama, it being a comparatively short distance from Tokio. Here I
+found a number of friends whom I had met at different points and who
+were about to leave for San Francisco,--my own departure for North China
+to occur the following morning.
+
+To visit North China, I was compelled to return to Shanghai in order to
+join the Collver Tours party I had met at Kyoto. I left Yokohama on
+March 3d by rail for Kobe, arriving at the Oriental Hotel about 9 P.M.
+The route by day was very pleasant, as we saw much fine scenery, and for
+some time Mt. Fujiyama rose before us in the distance. At Kobe I found
+that the steamer, _Mongolia_, would be delayed, and therefore I would
+need to remain there until the second day. The following morning, I took
+a jinrikisha ride to the country and revisited several points of
+interest.
+
+[Illustration: _Gate of Chionin in Kyoto_]
+
+[Illustration: _Ueno Park Pagoda_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_June 6th_: I was awakened at seven on the morning of June 6th by the
+voice of the guide saying, "We are now in the narrowest part of the
+Inland Sea." I arose quickly, and, glancing out of the port-hole,
+beheld a scene of loveliness which caused a spontaneous exclamation,
+"Oh, how beautiful!" Before me on the left was an island clad in
+verdure; behind, the towering mountains; then farther off, a lesser
+peak, sloping down to the sea; a promontory jutted out at the right,
+ribbed with terraces from which peeped forth tiny shoots of delicate
+green. Scarcely had I time to catch a glimpse before the panorama
+changed. This scene was repeated with slight variations until suddenly
+there appeared a break, and in a cove were moored many little boats;
+next came a tall mountain sloping down to the sea, with a wealth of
+foliage along the side, while on the top was a fringe of tall trees,
+like so many hills seen in Japan. I had cause to wonder if this too was
+not one of the many expressions of Nature's artistic sense.
+
+One scene succeeded another, and I became almost oblivious to all
+thought of dressing until the gong rang for breakfast. I felt
+rebellious, and, on that morning at least, the meal seemed a
+desecration, the sacrifice of an opportunity. Once before, I had a
+similar early morning experience; that was at Laggan, on the Canadian
+Pacific Railway, when, on awakening, I beheld directly opposite my
+window lovely Lake Louise and the beautiful glacier mirrored within the
+opalescent blue. This day in Japan ended with a glorious sunset, and,
+as the gold and azure melted away into nothingness, it was a fitful
+close to hours of rare enjoyment.
+
+On the morning following, I was again awakened, this time by the magic
+word Nagasaki, and I beheld another never-to-be-forgotten scene. The
+harbor and shipping lay in the foreground; beyond the shore line rose
+large buildings, smaller ones creeping up the mountain side; this whole
+panorama was bathed in sunlight. Immediately on landing a jinrikisha
+ride was enjoyed, and I was propelled about in an aimless fashion,
+enjoying the street scenes, visiting the heights, and the Horse's
+Temple. It was a restless, irresponsible kind of day that I enjoyed, and
+I returned to the steamer at five o'clock with considerable regret. Half
+an hour later we were sailing away for Shanghai; and again we saw
+islands, promontories, and inlets quite like those of the day previous.
+
+On Saturday morning, the 9th, we were anchored at Wusong, waiting for
+the arrival of the health officer. Thereafter we took a ride of an hour
+in the steam launch. Shanghai seemed more European on our second
+arrival, and the Bund on the front more attractive. We made the Palace
+Hotel our destination, and learned with regret of the non-arrival of the
+Trans-Siberian party from Manila. Some steamer friends and other
+acquaintances were at Shanghai, and the time passed pleasantly amongst
+them.
+
+I attended divine service at St. John's Cathedral on Sunday morning, and
+in the evening the delayed party arrived; I was so fortunate as to have
+two home friends among the number.
+
+Monday began by a general tour of sight-seeing for the party; to a
+certain extent I thus went over the ground again, taking jinrikisha
+rides through a portion of the European native city, and visiting the
+entire French concession. French names were on the business houses and
+on many of the streets. This concession is governed by a municipality of
+its own.
+
+Four restful days were passed at Shanghai, and at ten on the evening of
+May 12th, we went to our steamer, the _Tuck-Wo_, for a trip on the
+celebrated Yangtse River. The steamer was large and airy, with pleasant
+decks; everything wore a thoroughly homelike air. The scenery on the
+lower Yangtse is rather flat and disappointing, but in the morning there
+were some vegetation and many agreeable glimpses of life, with vistas of
+modest homes and little patches of cultivated ground around them. The
+shores were covered with tall vegetation which, we were told, grows
+quite tall and is then cut, dried, and used as fuel by the natives. At
+first, during our trip, there had been only a low fringe of trees in the
+distant background; now mountains appeared as a striking variation, and
+thus we had alternating scenes which added to the spatial interest from
+this time on. There were occasional picturesque points and promontories
+that jutted out into the sea; clustering around, were many large and
+smaller craft; once I counted thirty-six in one place.
+
+The steamer anchored at Chang-wang-kong on the second evening, and we
+were permitted to go ashore for two hours. We had noticed a brilliantly
+lighted building, four stories high, every window gleaming and
+presenting an imposing appearance; we naturally expected some artistic
+effect in the interior, but, when we came to visit it, the illusion
+vanished, as the first and second stories were cut up into small rooms,
+each filled with Chinese folk intent upon securing their evening meal;
+adjacent rooms were devoted to the culinary operations. Dirt and
+confusion and odors permeated everywhere, and we declined to ascend to
+the upper story, where the Chinese game of fan-tan was in progress.
+Certain homelike English buildings clung near the water front, and we
+walked through the usual crowded Chinese streets. The town was laid out
+in one long thoroughfare, overlooking the water and sloping backward to
+the lesser mountains. We returned, content with the good cheer aboard
+our steamer, and were soon sailing on.
+
+[Illustration: _The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River_]
+
+We passed Nanking, formerly the southern capital of China and once a
+place of great importance--indeed, a seat of learning and of art. Only
+the distant walls could be seen. A little north of Nanking are located
+two of the Ming tombs.
+
+The following morning, at eleven, we were again permitted to land, this
+time at Wu-ho, quite a large town and evidently the centre for several
+industries. After wandering through a few native streets, we took
+jinrikishas and visited the heights above. Here was situated a fine
+garden filled with rose trees all in bloom, the property of the son of
+the noted statesman, Li Hung Chang. This was said to be one of his many
+palaces; at present he is Minister to England. The afternoon afforded us
+a variety of points of interest to seek out; long low islands, boldly
+defined mountains, an occasional village, and coves filled with shipping
+of all kinds, from the sampan to the five-sail junk. The shores were
+clothed with the wonderful green of Spring, which, to my mind, was
+excelled only by the matchless verdure of Java.
+
+On the morning of May 15th we met with constant surprises; first, there
+was the boldly defined little Orphan Rock, the seat of a Buddhist
+monastery which contained, however, only a small retinue of monks. Two
+hours later, on the left side of the Yangtse River, there appeared for
+the first time a long avenue of trees near the water's edge, while
+beyond it was a range of mountains higher than we had seen. Nestling
+between two mountains which seemed to hug the water was a village with a
+remarkable wall stretching from one peak to the other, and curving down,
+thus encircling the town; this wall had a crenellated edge and was
+perfectly preserved.
+
+The mountain range continued for some time, and then was succeeded by
+the more prevailing flat shore, which soon merged again into mountains.
+Perched high up on a projecting hill, another monastery gleamed white
+through the encircling trees. We sailed onward toward the right, and the
+Captain pointed out on our left the entrance to Lake Poyang, which shone
+in the distance, and rising boldly out of which could be dimly seen the
+greater Orphan Island, where towered a large pagoda said to be two
+hundred and fifty feet high. From now on, the scenery changed rapidly,
+and first one side of the shore and then the other side claimed our
+attention and admiration; the river being very wide, and the steamer
+also constantly changing its course, we were thus given a fine
+opportunity for observation.
+
+[Illustration: _Road to Kaling above Kia-Kiang_]
+
+Our next excitement occurred when we approached Kia-kiang. We first saw
+a high rocky promontory on which a tall seven-story pagoda stood, like
+a veritable sentinel; rounding the point, a long shore line was
+protected by a seawall which stretched to the extreme point of land
+where Kia-kiang is situated. Near the pagoda were homes and native
+buildings, then some business houses; farther back from the shore rose
+another towering pagoda, and farther still another, while a tiny temple
+was perched on an eminence. Embowered in trees, we also found the white
+homes of foreign residents, presumably English. There was a great deal
+of shipping in port which gave evidence of the city's being a business
+centre. Three hours' time was given us on land, but few availed
+themselves of the privilege because of a heavy rain. On leaving
+Kia-kiang a low shore was seen, then a long island, covered with homes
+of a simple kind, with their little gardens; every inch of ground was
+under cultivation. The shades of night soon shut off our view, but at 9
+A.M. we were again anchored--this time at Wu-such. Only the gleaming
+lights in the distance were visible. Two more places were to be passed
+during the night, Wang-tu-kiang and Wen-chou; and Hankow was to confront
+us on the morrow.
+
+The Yangtse River rises three thousand miles away, near Tibet, and
+covers the whole of the Empire; thus far we had traversed six hundred
+miles of it. Despite what we praised, however, we could not help
+longing to meet with the bolder scenery which a longer trip would have
+revealed to us. A heavy rain prevented much sight-seeing at Hankow on
+the first day, which was fortunately Sunday; thus we received our
+initial impressions of the city from the steamer, a view which took in a
+long Bund, fronting the water's edge, and filled with fine buildings,
+evidently of a European style of architecture; we were told that they
+were the different homes of the English, French, and German consulates,
+the French even having a special park attached to theirs. At the extreme
+left were large business houses and a club. Hankow is a great depository
+for tea, and, with the two adjacent cities of Han-yang and Wu-chang, it
+has an immense population, reaching into the millions. Many religious
+denominations are said to be represented in Hankow, but we saw no
+pretentious churches. The harbor or water-front has a stone embankment;
+a large amount of shipping is to be seen, many of the boats being of
+peculiar construction.
+
+[Illustration: _The Hankow bund_]
+
+The following morning, we had a few hours in which to view the city
+before taking the train for Peking. We first visited the native quarter.
+The heavy rain of the previous day caused a great deal of mud, and as we
+attempted to drive through the narrow streets and bazars, the dirt
+floors of the little homes and shops were a sea of mud, while the
+inmates were preparing breakfast and attending to other domestic
+avocations in perfect unconcern; it was certainly not an inspiring
+scene, and the worst native quarter we had visited during our stay in
+China. We did not extend our observation very far, but turned to the
+more attractive Bund, which is about three miles in extent. Here we had
+a nearer view of the consulates, from each of which a street led down to
+the water's edge. In the French concession we noticed the same naming of
+streets and buildings that we had seen in Shanghai; this was also true
+of the German and English concessions, thus making of each a little
+miniature city. There is a fine English club at Hankow, and a long line
+of tea factories called godowns; the odor of tea was distinctly
+noticeable for three blocks. From May to the middle of July the tea
+industry of Hankow is great, and large numbers of dealers and
+speculators interested in the business congregate there.
+
+We took the train at 11 A.M. for Peking, with every expectation of
+arriving there at 4 P.M.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PEKING, _March 18th_: The railway trip from Hankow to Peking is not
+interesting, for it is largely over a vast extent of plain without
+foliage or vegetation. Occasionally we passed small towns with a few
+planted trees. The latter part of the way seemed almost like a desert;
+there being little to observe, one had time to reflect, and, in some
+inscrutable manner, the immensity of China, its extreme age, its teeming
+population, and its unreality, judged by Western standards, began to
+dawn on me. I had previously failed to realize that I was actually in
+China. Having seen the Chinese at several points before reaching
+Hong-Kong, that city with its English environment did not impress me
+greatly. Canton seemed an unrelated place, a kind of a by-play. The
+Shanghai I knew was modern.
+
+As we approached Peking, we caught a glimpse of the Great Wall, a
+massive gray bulk, with the immense corner tower, which produced a
+feeling of awe, standing as though it were an entrance into a city of
+mystery--a walled town of over twenty miles in circumference which was
+virtually the product of four walled cities in one. We were housed in
+the new and spacious Grand Hotel des Wagons-lits. Our stay was to cover
+just a little over a week; hence vigorous sight-seeing was at once
+inaugurated, and the first impression received was the great age of
+everything that surrounded us.
+
+[Illustration: _The Great Wall at Peking_]
+
+Peking was made the capital of the whole Empire by Mongol Kublai Khan,
+the Wise, a munificent ruler who laid the foundation plan of what we see
+to-day; but the origin of the city dates back some centuries before the
+Christian era. The Ming Dynasty extended over nearly three centuries;
+then China, being threatened by an invasion of the Manchus from the
+north, was aided in her resistance by the Manchus at home, and, through
+a peculiar combination, they secured possession of the throne and have
+held it ever since. The foreign rule is hated by the true Chinese.
+
+The four sections of Peking are: (1) The Forbidden City, called the
+Purple City by the Chinese because formerly only purple mortar was used.
+It consists virtually of a palace and adjacent buildings, and embraces a
+population of nearly six thousand. This portion of the city has for ages
+been closed to foreigners, with the exception of a few months
+immediately after the Boxer trouble in 1900, when excursions to the
+Forbidden City were made, photographs secured, and also a small
+guide-book prepared. (2) The Imperial City surrounds the Forbidden City,
+and is now in great part closed. (3) The Tartar City surrounds the
+Imperial City, and is called the "city within" because it lies within
+the walls. (4) The Chinese or Southern City is south of the Tartar City,
+and extends somewhat beyond it to the east and west.
+
+Next to the Great Wall, the gateways should demand our interest. There
+are several, and Hata-men is the one which we frequently passed through.
+It was always thronged. The most densely crowded entrance, however, was
+the Chinese gate, Chien-men; here, at times, it was almost impossible
+for the jinrikisha to make a passage. The street scenes in Peking are
+wonderful because of their variety, and the length of the streets adds
+to their picturesqueness, although they are not quite so spectacular as
+those of Jeypore, India.
+
+Many different styles of dress are seen. I noticed the long flowing robe
+of the Manchu women, with the Manchu head-dress and a remarkable
+arrangement of hair on a frame, spreading at the back with a sort of
+elongated butterfly effect, and held in place by a bright gold hairpin.
+The bands of hair are brought over in a way to give the impression of
+long loops, and they are decorated with bright flowers. The Manchu women
+are taller than the Chinese women, and walk with a statelier tread, as
+their feet have never been bound, the present Empress many years ago
+having issued an edict prohibiting that custom. The edict is, however,
+evaded, as Chinese fathers and husbands insist that the custom be kept
+up, seeming to imagine that abolishing it would have some peculiar
+effect on the character of the wife, perhaps resulting in
+insubordination. The Chinese women part their glossy black hair in the
+middle, wear it in smooth bands down the side of the forehead, and dress
+it in the back in a great variety of low loops. They also wear
+jewelled and gold hairpins that are really very artistic. Their dress
+consists of the long black sack coat and loose trousers, much like those
+of a man. The children of Peking, unlike those of the Orient, where
+clothes are virtually dispensed with, wear long-sleeved, high-necked
+garments reaching to the feet.
+
+[Illustration: _Hata-men Gate_]
+
+The bazars and shopping streets in Peking were interesting, many of the
+buildings rising four stories in height, and having the same long narrow
+decorated signs that I described in Canton. At intervals along the way
+very high poles are erected, and on these are placed different kinds of
+signs, giving these streets a brilliant appearance. The usual throng of
+dealers and of diverse nationalities are represented, resulting in a
+great deal of bustle and activity, a great deal of noise and dirt. The
+crowds around some of the gateways included rows of vehicles and
+sometimes a group of camels; but the most individual of all conveyances
+is the Peking cart; indeed, I have never seen any inanimate object that
+wore so individual an air, and when viewed in large numbers, their
+appearance is most peculiar. This cart is two-wheeled, with a roof, and
+with sides and back enclosed. One horse is used. In the front opening
+sits the driver, some one usually at his side, while behind him, far in
+the back, may be seen the faces of the occupants peering out. Many of
+the carts used by the ordinary people have no windows or openings on the
+side; others have windows covered with a kind of netting which admits
+some air.
+
+The Llama Temple is considered to be one of the most important places to
+visit; it is in the eastern quarter of the Tartar City. The rule has
+been that just as soon as an emperor ascends the throne, the palace that
+he had previously occupied shall be changed into a temple. Such was the
+origin of the Llama Temple, once presided over by three thousand Mongol
+Llamas, and, at the head of them, a living Buddha. The temple has six
+parts: first the outside gate, then the entrance gate, then a large hall
+of very imposing proportions, in front of this a tablet upon which is
+inscribed the history of Llamaism. Before this tablet rests a bronze
+incense burner eight feet high, and on the southwest wall of the temple
+hangs a picture of the universe, upheld by the four-clawed feet of a
+huge sea-monster with three eyes. There are also three lofty pavilions.
+Beautiful silken rugs used to be laid on the floor of the impressive
+hall, and on the walls were very fine hangings. Many precious articles
+were carried away in 1900, at the time of the Boxer trouble, and some
+may still be hidden.
+
+[Illustration: _Peking girls_]
+
+[Illustration: _Llama Temple_]
+
+There is a colossal Buddha here of very evil countenance, towering three
+stories, and said to be seventy feet high. To those versed in Buddhist
+lore, these buildings are full of interest; it is only within a few
+years that the place has been open to the public. The Llama monks
+present a very impressive appearance at their evening service, with
+their long gowns crossed over, and their high caps like ancient Roman
+casques.
+
+In construction, the Confucian Temple, near by, is similar to all
+Confucian temples throughout China; the hall is eighty-four feet long
+and the teakwood pillars forty feet high. In front there is a marble
+terrace, twenty-eight yards long and fifteen feet wide, reached on three
+sides by seventeen steps. The inscription on the Confucius tablet,
+written in Chinese and Manchu dialects, says: "The tablet of the soul of
+the most holy ancestral teacher, Confucius." Other tablets to noted
+teachers hang on either side. There are rows of cypresses in front of
+the hall said to have been planted one thousand years ago; and on each
+side of the court are buildings containing tablets to over one hundred
+celebrated scholars. A temple court extends in front, with six monuments
+which record foreign conquests by emperors. In the court of the
+Triennial Examinations there is a stone tablet to commemorate each
+session, on which are engraved the names and homes of all students who
+receive the title of Doctor of Literature.
+
+Another unique building, west of the Confucius Temple, is the Hall of
+the Classics. Here there is a richly decorated pailow, with encaustic
+tiles, chiefly green and yellow; the three archways are lined with white
+marble. This hall was designed by the Emperor, Chien Lung, to complete
+the Confucius Temple, in which till then the classics had been
+expounded. It is lofty and square, with double eaves, yellow tiles,
+surmounted by a specially large gilt ball, and encircled by a fringe
+carried to the roof and supported by massive wooden pillars. In the
+centre is a circular pool of water, edged by marble balustrades, with a
+bridge spanning it. There is also a remarkable sun-dial. Two hundred
+upright stone monuments engraved on both sides contain the complete text
+of the nine classics, very finely executed; it was thought thus to
+preserve the purity of the text. There are also more lists of successful
+students on stone monoliths.
+
+The Drum Tower was another point visited, one of the most striking
+objects in Peking; it is oblong and quite Chinese in character, the
+upper story being of wood, the lower of brick. It is one hundred feet
+high and about the same in length toward the base. It was built under
+the Mongol dynasty; a very large drum stands in the middle of the last
+story, and a climb of sixty-eight steps up a steep Chinese staircase
+gave us a fine view of the entire city. A short distance from the Drum
+Tower is the Bell Tower. This is built of brick and stone, ninety feet
+high, and is also Mongol in origin; the bell weighs twenty thousand
+pounds and is still used to tell the watches of the night; the drum in
+the tower is struck at the same time.
+
+[Illustration: _A Peking cart_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Confucius Temple_]
+
+[Illustration: _Temple of Classics_]
+
+Some Chinese authority states that there are ten thousand temples in
+Peking, all built under the Mongol dynasty (thirteenth century), or the
+Ming dynasty (fifteenth and sixteenth centuries). Of these, the most
+striking is the Temple or Altar of Heaven in the southern part of the
+Chinese City, erected by the Ming Emperor, Yung-loh, in 1421; the
+enclosure, a fine park, measures about six thousand feet around. There
+are three large, imposing gates,--south, east, and west. To the north,
+the wall is crescent shaped and is without an entrance. The Altar or
+Temple of Heaven, open to the sky, is circular and of white marble. It
+is three stories high; the base measures two hundred and ten feet
+across, the second story one hundred and fifty feet, the third ninety
+feet. One large marble slab is in the centre. The white marble
+balustrades are richly carved to represent clouds. In the upper story,
+there are seventy-two pillars; in the middle, one hundred and eight; and
+in the lower, one hundred and eighty; thus making, in all, three hundred
+and sixty, the number of degrees in a circle. It is on the central
+marble slab that the Emperor stands and prostrates himself, worshipping
+under the blue arch of heaven. He goes three times a year to this
+temple, praying before daybreak, and having spent the previous night in
+the Grand Hall of Abstinence close by.
+
+Between this and the closed Altar of Heaven, there is the small Temple
+of Prayer, where the ancestral tablets are kept, capped by one of the
+most remarkable roofs in Peking. This temple is a gem; its bricks and
+tiles are of the finest porcelain, and everything dates from the best
+period of Chinese art. The northern Temple of Heaven has a three-fold
+roof of blue tiles, recently rebuilt, the early one having been burned
+down. There are magnificent columns in this, and the ceiling is very
+elaborate. Before leaving the enclosure at the left of the gateway, we
+went through a large palace not in use at the present time, except on
+rare occasions; this was not in the itinerary, but our guide secured
+admission by paying a generous fee. Only a few rooms were furnished, but
+these were in excellent taste.
+
+[Illustration: _The Inner Temple of Heaven_]
+
+We next drove to the Altar or Temple of Agriculture. This is where
+General Chaffee and the American troops were quartered after the relief
+of Peking in 1900. The hall is the largest in the city, but there is
+nothing special to see in it. The rites observed here are nearly as
+important as those at the Temple of Heaven. The enclosure is two miles
+in circumference. The first two altars are rectangular; that of the
+Spirits of Heaven, on the east, is fifty feet long and four and one-half
+feet high; and the marble tablets therein contain the names of the
+celebrated mountains, lakes, and seas of China. On the first day of the
+second period of Spring, the Emperor goes there with three princes, nine
+great men, and a numerous following, all of them understood to be
+fasting. After they have worshipped, they proceed to the field which has
+been prepared; the bullock, the plough, and other accessories are all of
+Imperial yellow. The Emperor traces a furrow from east to west;
+returning four times, he thus makes eight furrows. The First Minister of
+the Treasury stands on the right with a whip, the Viceroy of the
+Province on the left with the grain, while a third official scatters the
+seed behind the Emperor. The three Princes each plough ten furrows, and
+so the work proceeds through all the dignitaries, according to their
+rank. The afternoon was one of the most interesting we spent in Peking,
+the temperature being perfect like our own June at home; all Nature was
+in harmony with the scene.
+
+The Observatory was formerly one of the most distinctive sights in
+Peking. It affords a magnificent view towards the south of the wall of
+the Tartar City. The wonderful bronze instruments therein have outlived
+their usefulness, but their artistic merit makes them a glory and a joy.
+The Examination Hall was formerly situated close by the site of the
+Observatory, but when we were there it was being dismantled. The old
+method of examination is being given up, and the reform is one of the
+progressive changes in Peking, upsetting the precedent of ages. The
+examination of students is now carried on very much as it is in other
+countries.
+
+Leaving the city, we drove some miles along the outskirts to the Yellow
+Temple. There are two temples, the eastern and the western; and, in
+front, are two very beautiful pavilions. Chien Lung repaired the western
+temple and changed it into a dwelling for Mongol princes, who arrived
+each year to pay their tribute. This is one of the finest buildings in
+China; it has great size, beautiful proportions, and a square entrance
+porch; but, since its occupation in 1900 by some of the Allied Forces,
+it has begun to fall into ruins. The eastern temple is in good
+condition, and critics claim that its proportions surpass those of any
+temple in Japan. The magnificent white marble monument or pagoda was
+erected by Chien Lung over the grave of the Teshu Llama who died of
+small-pox while on a visit there. On the eight sides of the memorial
+are engraved scenes in the Llama's life; these bas-reliefs are very
+interesting. The great White Temple is the most beautiful monument in
+the environs of Peking, and it is well worth the long drive to see it.
+On our return, we passed through the usual number of gates, from the
+Chinese to the Tartar, and from the Tartar to the Imperial; only a small
+portion of this latter section can be seen, but we caught glimpses of
+the many lovely buildings in the Forbidden City, and it was most
+tantalizing not to be able to enter the sacred precincts. From a sketch
+taken in 1900, we can form an idea of the many interesting points in
+this Forbidden City. The Imperial City, enclosing the Forbidden City, is
+over five miles in circumference; its walls are eighteen feet high, with
+four entrances about seventy feet wide. There are three gates, the
+central one of which is reserved for the Emperor. People are allowed to
+look in, but not to enter by this southern gate; the northern and
+eastern gates are open to the public.
+
+[Illustration: _Outer Heaven, Temple of Heaven, Peking_]
+
+One view in the Forbidden City is that of the Coal Hall, two hundred and
+ten feet high. It dates from the Mongol dynasty, when coal is said to
+have been piled up there as a provision in case of siege, the Ming
+Emperor having covered it all with beautiful pavilions.
+
+Beyond the wall to the north is the Hall of Longevity, where the
+Emperor's coffin remains after his death and until his funeral.
+
+The White Dagoba is conspicuous in all Peking views; it is within the
+gardens which are reserved for the court, and was built by the first
+emperor of the present dynasty as a shrine for a very fine Buddha. The
+White Dagoba is regarded as the palladium of the Empire, and stands at
+the very centre of the loveliest part of the palace grounds. A little
+farther to the west is found the finest pailow in Peking, made of very
+beautiful encaustic tiles; and behind a neighboring hillock rests the
+celebrated dragon screen, sixty feet long and twenty feet high; it was
+built to protect the library, which was unfortunately burned during the
+occupation of the allied forces in 1900.
+
+A noticeable feature is the Temple of Ten Thousand Buddhas, all of
+glittering Imperial yellow, the walls covered with animals and small
+images of Buddha. The three lakes, northern, middle, and southern, are a
+little over two miles long; a beautiful marble bridge connects the
+northern with the middle lake.
+
+[Illustration: _The White Pagoda of the Yellow Temple_]
+
+The Winter or Skating Palace was distinctive for the finest wood
+carvings in China; these were also burned by accident in 1900. A large
+pavilion, surrounded by a circular wall, is near the marble bridge. In
+this pavilion is the throne, and it was there audience was given to
+several European ambassadors in 1893; there also the Emperor puts on
+mourning garments,--when, for instance, he had to grieve for his father,
+Prince Chan. At the northeast corner of the palace stands the fine
+yellow-tiled temple, with an imposing entrance; it has large gates,
+within the outer of which are two very quaint pavilions. Four or five
+roofs are piled, one on the other, and these can be distinctly seen from
+outside the walls of the Forbidden City. This brief outline may give one
+a little idea of what the public are deprived of seeing. Most of the
+buildings of the Forbidden City are yellow-tiled, as are also the walls.
+
+The Summer Palace is the only one of the Peking buildings that dates
+from the present Manchu dynasty. There had previously been a palace
+there, but it had a long while since fallen into decay. It is said to
+have had lovely gardens, and many canals winding in and out, while in
+other places little miniature lakes are formed. The principal palace is
+attractive and rises on an eminence, but there are pavilions and lesser
+buildings scattered about. The present palace is, however, very inferior
+to those royal residences of olden times; it suffered greatly in 1900;
+the Russian soldiers seemed to take delight in destroying works of art
+and historic buildings. Some of the marble bridges are very effective,
+and there is a marble boat, not in itself very beautiful, but a
+picturesque feature as it lay anchored by the lake. We saw it from a
+high hill beyond the Emperor's palace, where is located a Buddhist
+pagoda. We had a view of the palace with its enclosure and its minor
+buildings.
+
+This was one feature seen during an excursion which a friend and I took,
+escorted by a guide and a picnic luncheon basket on Saturday, May 25th.
+We left the hotel early for a six-mile drive, passing first through the
+crowded streets, again noting the dusty way of the Imperial City, which
+wound around near the walls of the Forbidden City, every pinnacle and
+roof gleaming in the morning light. Leaving the outskirts of the town,
+the country view was the pleasantest we had seen. Our road lay alongside
+of the canal, where there were more trees and less dust.
+
+On the way we first visited the Five Pagoda Buddhist Temple, which seems
+to belong to a different world from that of to-day. It is a square mass
+of masonry fifty feet high, covered with old colored tiles and with
+beautiful reliefs of camels. On its flat top there are five pagodas,
+each eleven stories high; also, adjacent to it, a very elegant square
+pagoda, and, in front of it, what seems like the top of another large
+pagoda. Farther on, we saw the Ten Thousand Buddha Temple; it is not
+remarkable architecturally, and there are two large spacious
+buildings with a court between them. One of them consists of two
+stories, in both of which is a large room lined with little compartments
+containing small gilt Buddhas. The guide said there was a total of nine
+hundred and ninety-nine already, and the thousandth place was reserved
+for the Dowager Empress when she died.
+
+[Illustration: _The Winter Palace of the Forbidden City_]
+
+[Illustration: _View from the Forbidden City_]
+
+We drove on to the village, adjacent to the Summer Palace, where we took
+jinrikishas for a ride of about two miles, following along the outskirts
+of the Summer Palace. Here were some temples, evidently not now used as
+places of worship, since the guide informed us that our luncheon would
+be served in the open court of one of them. After our impromptu meal we
+proceeded to walk about half a mile farther and then ascended an
+eminence with several flights of stairs leading to the pagoda which I
+have previously alluded to. We obtained, not only a view of the Summer
+Palace, but of the surrounding country. The little pagoda was several
+stories high, and very tasteful in all its appointments; it is said to
+have been built in commemoration of some event, but the guide could give
+us no exact information. We retraced our way to the city, and then drove
+through certain streets in order to enjoy the peculiar life around us.
+
+The three or four miles stretching between the Chien-men and Hata-men
+gates on that Saturday afternoon surpass description. The Emperor's
+middle gate barred out the crowds; this opened on a somewhat discolored
+bridge, with fine carving and artistic balustrades, but the eye does not
+like to linger here long on account of the crowds of beggars everywhere
+visible; indeed, the hordes of women, children, vehicles, and
+processions of every variety seemed incredible. Funeral corteges in
+particular were very doleful; discordant music preceded the funeral car,
+and the crowds of paid mourners in motley dress, many of them picked up
+off the street for the occasion, were a new and distasteful feature. We
+saw on that trip three of these funerals, all similarly arranged, but
+only one modest wedding procession. The bride sat in a red silk-covered
+chair or palanquin, surrounded by friends; the usual attempts were made
+at music. Whether the happy lady was Manchu or Chinese we were unable to
+determine, the curtains being carefully drawn.
+
+This thoroughfare, between the two gates alluded to, is famous for its
+gayly decorated shops with long, ornamented signs and banners flying in
+every direction. There are many such streets in Peking, and a few shady
+residence thoroughfares, but our way usually led through the congested
+sections. Pailows, where streets are crossed at right angles, are
+interesting, and they have usually commemorative arches; and
+sometimes the business houses of the locality bear their name, as the
+Four Pailow Shop.
+
+[Illustration: _Marble Terrace of the Summer Palace_]
+
+[Illustration: _Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace_]
+
+Legation Street is the home for ambassadors and ministers, and is a
+decided contrast to the majority of native streets. Many of the foreign
+buildings are fine, the grounds large, with imposing gateways, over
+which may be seen the coat of arms of the country which is represented.
+The British Legation was formerly a palace. In the grounds is the
+English Chapel; here we attended service on Sunday. Our hotel was nearly
+opposite the British Embassy; hence, in going in or out, we usually
+touched Legation Street.
+
+A notable excursion from Peking is to the Great Wall and the Ming tombs.
+The Wall we were to see was not the original one, built in 215 B.C., but
+an inner wall of the seventh century, which had still later been rebuilt
+by the Ming emperors. We left in the morning for the Nankow Hotel, where
+we were to pass the night. On our way to the Peking station, we saw the
+Emperor, _en route_ from his Summer Palace to the city, in a yellow silk
+sedan chair, numerously attended by persons also robed in yellow. After
+luncheon at Nankow, we took sedan chairs ourselves for a twenty-six-mile
+ride to the Great Wall through the Nankow Pass. The long processions of
+guides and chairs were very picturesque, and there were also extra
+attendants as a necessary relay. The road was rather rough and very
+dusty, and our progress was therefore slow. Our roadway wound along,
+sometimes near a mountain, which lay on one side, with the valley on the
+other. The first gateway or arch we passed through was profusely
+decorated, having as a frieze a row of six Buddhas to right and left,
+and large Chinese figures below. Farther on, we came to another gateway,
+and then to another, the Pa-ta-ling, thirteen miles from Nankow and the
+top of the Nankow Pass. From every side long vistas could be seen; then
+portions of the Wall winding in and out, and ever and anon a massive
+watch tower looming forth.
+
+We left our chairs and walked a considerable way up the mountain side to
+the ruined watch towers; the one I entered was a large oblong building,
+with six windows and two doorways; farther on was another similar watch
+tower, and, at a greater distance, another. These add greatly to the
+picturesqueness of the wide massive wall--wide enough for two or three
+persons to ride abreast. Taken altogether, the view from the Nankow Pass
+is one of the most magnificent I have ever seen, and, of course,
+entirely unlike any other. It was a glorious day, and all the elements
+seemed to conspire to make it a perfect occasion.
+
+[Illustration: _Nankow Pass_]
+
+Resuming our chairs, we proceeded to retrace our steps; and in about an
+hour we stopped at a little hamlet for an afternoon collation furnished
+by our very thoughtful Director. The shades of night were beginning to
+fall when we resumed our journey, and erelong darkness overtook us. We
+were all more or less separated, as the guides made no attempt to keep
+together; and the sensation of being propelled by natives who did not
+speak one word of English was very peculiar and uncomfortable.
+
+We arrived at the hotel about nine in the evening; a late dinner
+followed, and we separated with the expectation of meeting in the
+morning at five, for the departure to the Ming tombs. This is a distance
+of eight miles, or sixteen there and back to Nankow. The cavalcade left
+in the same fashion as on the day previous. Our way led us over the
+hills,--an irregular roadway, first through a field and past two little
+villages. We then came to a magnificently carved pailow of white marble,
+fifty feet high, eighty feet wide, and divided into five openings by
+square pillars. Half a mile farther on stands the Red Gate; and there
+was formerly a beautiful pavilion of white marble, supported on four
+carved columns. It may be well to state before proceeding, that there
+are in this vicinity, within a few miles of each other, thirteen Ming
+tombs, the Ming dynasty preceding the present one. Yung-lohi is
+considered the finest of the group, and this was now to be our objective
+point. Half a mile beyond the pailow already alluded to is the Red Gate.
+Next is the Holy Way. From here on for about half a mile, there is a
+regular procession of animals and persons, all cut out of bluish marble
+monoliths, remarkable for their workmanship and for their great size,
+which causes one to speculate how they could have been brought from the
+quarry. First, there are two columns decorated with sculptured clouds,
+two lions couchant, two lions rampant. Then, in similar manner, four
+camels, four elephants, and so on. After this come four military
+officials, four civil officials, four celebrated men, each made from a
+single block of marble, standing on opposite sides of the way, and all
+wearing the old Ming dress used by the Chinese before the Manchus
+introduced their own costumes.
+
+Leaving the Holy Way, we passed through another arch, and came out on a
+street formerly paved with marble slabs. At some distance to one side,
+we saw two of the Ming tombs alluded to. We passed three marble bridges,
+one of seven arches, very much broken down. Two miles farther on, there
+is the principal enclosure around Yung-loh's tomb; it has a pavilion
+protecting a huge tablet with white marble steps and railings carved
+to represent clouds, phoenix, and dragons. Beyond lies the great hall,
+seventy yards long by thirty yards wide, and supported upon eight rows
+of teakwood pillars, four in each row, measuring twelve feet in
+circumference and sixty feet high. This is a typical ancestral hall. Our
+luncheon was served to us here.
+
+[Illustration: _A tower of the Great Wall_]
+
+[Illustration: _Five Arch: First pailow of the Ming Tomb_]
+
+Passing through another great yard planted with cypresses and oaks, a
+way cut into solid masonry leads up to the carefully closed door of the
+tomb. This passage divides into two branches, both leading to a long
+flight of steps which mount to the top of the terrace, where,
+immediately above the coffin passage, is an immense upright slab bearing
+an inscription. The mound on which this tomb is placed is half a mile in
+circuit, and, though artificial, looks natural, being planted with
+cypresses and oaks to the very top. The emperors used to come in the
+Spring and Autumn to sacrifice at these ancient graves, but for two
+centuries this duty has been left to a descendant of the Ming emperors.
+
+There were different features to each of the Ming tombs, but, having
+seen the representative one, we were content to return to Nankow, as we
+were to take the afternoon train for Peking. While the trip to the Great
+Wall and the Ming tombs is somewhat fatiguing, the interest is so great
+as to reward one for the exertion.
+
+We went our individual ways the last day in Peking, I to the Chinese
+City in pursuit of a mandarin coat for a friend. After passing through
+block after block in a chaotic condition, dirt and debris of all kinds
+flung everywhere, I left the chair and walked quite a distance through
+lane-like passages to the place designated, where I found that the
+dealer had transferred all his embroideries to the hotel in which we
+were staying, and that the said coat was probably in the collection I
+had looked at the previous evening. Having devoted two hours to the
+pursuit, I was somewhat discomfited. I then hurried to some of the
+streets leading off from Beggars' Bridge, a place which is, as its name
+suggests, the headquarters for beggars. Strange as it may seem, there is
+a guild of beggars in Peking, with an acknowledged king; their
+profession in the East is a fine art. There are interesting
+thoroughfares leading out from this bridge,--one, a Curio Street, where
+every conceivable article can be found, and the other, Bookseller
+Street. This last was a disappointment, as I was told that rare editions
+could be had; but through the interpreter, I learned that the conditions
+of the city had been altered since the Boxer Rebellion in 1890. Indeed,
+that fearful event was the cause of many changes in Peking and of great
+suffering as well. The story of the conflict as related by an eyewitness
+was very thrilling. Certain portions of the city at the present time
+consist of naught but ruins, such as the foreign mission buildings and
+the eastern and southern cathedrals, one of which was in process of
+renovation. The Legation quarter has been mostly rebuilt.
+
+[Illustration: _Emperor Yunglo's tomb_]
+
+The cause of the Boxer Rebellion was everywhere given in Peking as
+having been instigated by the Dowager Empress and her sympathizers. No
+one can visit the city without receiving some definite impression of
+this wonderful woman, who for years has dominated all other
+authority--violating traditions considered sacred, and ruling with an
+imperious hand. For the Emperor only sympathy was felt. Of a refined,
+sensitive nature, but not strong physically, he seems to be a man of
+intelligence and of broad ideas. This was shown in 1898, when he
+announced that he intended to rule as other emperors did--to visit
+throughout his Empire; he even projected a railway journey to Tientsin
+in September, and planned many innovations. This was accomplished in
+conjunction with a few kindred spirits belonging to the so-called Reform
+Party in China.
+
+Soon after, the Empress seemingly acquiesced in the plan of reform, and
+announced that she too was interested in progress; but, whether sincere
+or not, erelong the tables were turned; six of the Emperor's advisers
+were beheaded, and the seventh, an intimate friend of the Emperor,
+advised in time, left the country. Then the Empress had the Emperor
+confined, and she was proclaimed his successor; but the open
+intervention of the Allied Powers caused him to be returned to the
+throne. It is said that for ten years he has been an invalid. Can any
+one wonder, knowing the constant espionage and continual opposition to
+which he has been subjected? After two years' contemplating of the
+beauties of the court, Emperor Kwang Su was married, very much against
+his will, however (preferring another), to the niece of the Dowager
+Empress, the beautiful Yohonola; her photograph proves this to be a true
+statement. For her has been reserved the sad fate of remaining
+childless, and, in consequence, she is kept in the background and rarely
+ever mentioned. Tsze Hsi An is really one of the most remarkable women
+in the world's history. Of very humble origin, and uneducated, she, on
+the birth of her son, became the reigning Emperor's wife of the second
+rank. At his death and also at the death of her superior, she became
+regent during the minority of her son, and on his death violated
+traditions (the law prohibiting succession to one of the same generation
+as the dead ruler), and had the nephew of the deceased Emperor
+proclaimed, she reigning as regent until his majority and virtually
+thereafter.
+
+[Illustration: _Emperor Kwangsu of China_]
+
+Since 1900 the Empress has shown a desire to meet ladies of other
+nationalities in audience, and an American woman who had lived
+thirty-five years in Japan and China told me that the only thing
+required was an official endorsement by the Secretary of State (if
+American). Her failing health, however, during the past year caused an
+entire cessation of social courtesies. A woman of remarkably strong
+character, dominant will, and unscrupulous as to methods, she is the
+most perfect example, in juxtaposition, of the masculine woman, as the
+Emperor is of the feminine man.
+
+We observed many things about the Chinese of to-day that point to
+progress, however slow. The schools, for instance, are modelled on a
+much broader basis; there is more independence in journalism; Chinese
+athletics are also coming into vogue, where they were formerly held in
+contempt; Young Men's Christian Associations flourish in various places,
+and fine work is being done by the many foreign missionary
+organizations. I heard much comment made concerning the American
+missions; their work along educational lines and in the way of hospitals
+was specially commended. Even Li Hung Chang, though a Confucian,
+testified to their value, as have other prominent Manchus. The mission
+movement in general is being regarded as a great sociological force
+which, though working slowly, tends to a higher condition of life.
+
+All the signs of the times indicate that China and the United States are
+destined some day to come into closer relations with each other
+socially, intellectually and of course commercially, as self-interest is
+a great factor in the furtherance of any attitude. One of the means to
+this end is the Chinese student in American colleges and schools; the
+number is, however, very much smaller than in England, while five
+thousand men are entered in Japanese colleges and schools, on account of
+the nearer proximity of Japan and consequently the less expense.
+
+Mention is constantly being made of the Reform Party in China, and hints
+at revolution are even heard. On this point it is well to quote an
+extract from "China and America of To-day." The authority says: "The
+Chinese people have no right to legislation; they have no right of
+self-taxation. They have not the power of voting out their rulers, or of
+limiting or stopping their supplies; they have therefore the right of
+rebellion. Rebellion is, in China, the old, often exercised, legitimate,
+and constitutional means of stopping arbitrary and vicious legislation
+and administration." Will it be necessary to resort to revolution in
+order to effect needed reforms? Time alone will determine.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _The Dowager Empress of China_]
+
+TIENTSIN, _May 26th_: We left Peking in the morning, and reached
+Tientsin at 11 A.M., going to the Imperial Hotel, where we were to
+remain two days. After luncheon we took a drive, first to the native
+city. There remains of the old walls and two fine gateways, which stand
+as reminders of an historic past, are to be seen. The street groups and
+bazars were similar to those observed in other cities, but far less
+interesting than those in Peking. The native city is said to number from
+six hundred thousand to a million persons; and yet, so extended and
+complete is the ground covered by the different foreign concessions,
+numbering less than four thousand persons, that they virtually represent
+the Tientsin of to-day; the British concession alone sets the tone to
+the city, with its fine business blocks. In Memorial Hall, dedicated to
+General Gordon, the municipal offices of the concession are located. The
+fine Public Garden is the centre, three times a week, of a military band
+concert, which attracts a large attendance and makes a brilliant scene,
+with its myriad electric lights. This feature of Tientsin life was
+introduced long ago by Viceroy Li Hung Chang, early in his term of
+office (1870-1891); and he is said to have paid for the instruction of
+the first military band. The building of the Industrial Association is
+popularly called "pigs in clover," and we learned from actual
+experience that the name was truly applied, as we had to make the long
+weary round before we could secure an exit.
+
+On Victoria Road there are many private residences, and an imposing
+English Club edifice in the midst of large and attractive grounds.
+
+The morning of the second day was devoted to incidental things; in the
+afternoon we attended a Chinese theatre which was similar to the one we
+had seen in Hong-Kong, only actors, who were grotesque acrobats, now
+took the place of the previous ballet-dancers. In the evening we
+attended a fine concert in the Public Gardens. The music was furnished
+by the Cameron Guards in Highland costume. It was a fine opportunity to
+see the English contingent, and from the Astor House across the way came
+ladies in evening dress; hats and wraps were also in evidence; and, in
+the rear, were files of soldiers of various nations from the different
+concessions.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SHANHAIKWAN, _May 29th_: The following morning, we left for Shanhaikwan;
+we arrived in the evening, and went to a very comfortable railway hotel.
+The following morning, we made an excursion to the mountains and caught
+a glimpse of the Great Wall a long distance off; in one direction a
+valley; beyond that, hills; then mountains extending tier after tier,
+until the last faded away in the distant horizon. This wall is a
+continuation of the one visited in Peking, and formerly ended at the
+sea-line in Shanhaikwan, but the ravages of time and the devastation of
+man have carried away much of it.
+
+[Illustration: _Gordon Hall at Tientsin_]
+
+[Illustration: _Old gateway of Tientsin_]
+
+We had left our chairs at a small place, said to be a Taoist temple, and
+had also passed the ruins of another temple, showing the isolated places
+selected by the early fathers for their centres of worship. After
+roaming about, we returned to the first temple, and around an improvised
+table, in plain view of the altar, we were served with a substantial
+luncheon brought from the hotel. Our return trip was over a different
+route, in order to secure a finer view of the Wall, some ruined towers,
+and parapets.
+
+Later, we passed through two imposing gateways, and noted the great
+thickness of the Wall which, broken off, showed a brick exterior filled
+with earth. The way through the native town assured us of the usual
+Chinese life and bazars, Shanhaikwan having only a small European
+population. It was the scene of much activity during the Boxer
+Rebellion, and the regiments of several nations had posts or forts
+there, the English and Japanese even now continuing to maintain a small
+body-guard. In the afternoon we took a ride in a diminutive horse-car on
+a narrow-gauge road to the sea, four miles distant, where we found a
+sandy beach and bathhouses. This is a favorite resort for the Summer
+guests of the Shanhaikwan Hotel. Peitaho, which is situated back of
+Shanhaikwan in the mountains, has a large Summer colony from Peking and
+Tientsin, many of whom own their homes. At Shanhaikwan we had the
+pleasure of meeting Judge and Mrs. Charles Smith of Manila, and listened
+to many interesting experiences connected with life in the Philippines.
+Shanhaikwan is on the border between China and Manchuria.
+
+We had been in Manchuria all day with an uninteresting landscape as
+regards variety,--plains, a few trees, and a little verdure stretched
+far away. Much of the land, however, was tilled, it being Springtime in
+this far-away country; and an occasional group of trees indicated what
+time and irrigation may accomplish in the way of agricultural results.
+At every station armed soldiers were on guard. Various theories were
+advanced to account for this; one said that brigands infested the
+country; another claimed that there might be danger of destruction to
+the track, this being the Southern Japanese-Manchurian Railway, which
+was running through an alien country. The right to this road and a strip
+of land each side of the track was secured by Japan either by treaty or
+by lease from China at the close of the Russian-Japanese war. Chan Chow
+was the largest station passed. Hsin Min was the scene of a conflict
+between the Russians and Japanese, and at the present time soldiers are
+still stationed there.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MUKDEN, _May 30th_: Our next point to be visited was Mukden. The trip
+was not in our original itinerary, and we had some difficulty in
+securing it, as the Director felt that we could not obtain good hotel
+accommodations. We all, however, promised to accept uncomplainingly any
+condition which the situation offered. Nevertheless, we felt a little
+anxious about the result, as we were the first tourist party to invade
+Mukden, the capital of Manchuria, and also the old capital when it was
+an independent country and not, as now, a province.
+
+At the King-jo Hotel, under Japanese management, we found six rooms
+furnished in supposed European style; these opened on upper and lower
+galleries and were comfortable. They really formed an annex in order to
+entice stray European guests. The entire household was Japanese, without
+any knowledge of the English language, so pantomime became our means of
+communication, and there were many amusing mistakes made on both sides.
+The utmost good-humor prevailed, however, and the atmosphere of the
+place was altogether pleasant.
+
+The morning following our arrival, we rode in jinrikishas to the tomb of
+a Ming emperor. There are two of these tombs located at Mukden. We
+visited only one; it is four miles from the city, and beautifully
+located in a parklike enclosure. We entered at the side, through a long
+avenue of trees, the front entrance never being opened; there were two
+tall columns with grotesque figures of animals on top; then a lion on
+each side, seated on heavy pedestals. A three-arched pailow had a very
+massive carved cornice and entablature; on the cornice and on each
+division of the arch were seated immense carved lions; similar ones were
+also on the reverse side of the arch and on the ends, making ten in all,
+and adding to the impressiveness of the whole.
+
+We now entered the sacred avenue, lined on each side with ten large
+stone animals. The path was much shorter than that visited in Nankow,
+and the carving of the animals was less perfect. The avenue ended with a
+gateway of three arches, which we did not pass through, but which
+contained a memorial tablet mounted on a huge tortoise; beyond this
+there was a long oblong building with an effective terrace roof; doors
+were placed in each corner of the walled enclosure. At the back rose an
+immense mound which covers the tomb. From a high tower overlooking the
+mound, we had a view of the entire enclosure.
+
+[Illustration: _The Temple at Mukden_]
+
+The palace at Mukden is a large, imposing pile, built in 1631. There are
+many different buildings, all in the peculiar Chinese style with
+upturned eaves; these were barricaded while renovation was going on,
+and we could obtain glimpses of the interior only through cracks in the
+wall. The rooms were large and contained some wall decoration, while the
+whole effect was fine, in spite of all the inconveniences experienced in
+trying to see them; debris was everywhere. In one building the doors and
+windows were sealed with paper strips placed over them; this was the
+receptacle for valuable jewels and fine brocaded robes of royalty. We
+were first refused admission, but, on our return from the rounds of the
+palace, by some magical process (probably a large fee), a door was
+opened, and we entered and saw a wonderful display of rich gems,
+somewhat barbaric in style, fine swords, daggers, robes, and other
+paraphernalia.
+
+The bazars in Mukden were not unlike those throughout China in their
+arrangement, but containing not nearly so attractive a display of goods.
+The population seemed mixed, judging from the type of faces and from the
+head-dress of the women, some of them having the plain, smooth
+arrangement of the hair, while others followed the peculiar Manchu
+style. Mukden owes its present celebrity to the Russian-Japanese war, as
+several battles were fought around it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_June 1st_: The following day, we took our departure for Niuchwang. We
+had been told that our route would be over historic battlegrounds, and
+we soon realized this, for, after leaving Mukden, we saw the monument
+erected by the Japanese Government as a memorial to the memory of the
+Japanese soldiers who fell in a desperate engagement, March 13th, 1905.
+This was the battle of Shio-ho, one of the worst of the war. General
+Kuropatkin headed the Russians, while Generals Kuroki and Nogi were on
+the Japanese side. The Russians were vanquished and were forced to
+retreat to Karpan. Later we came to a large place, formerly a Russian
+city, Lara-yang, which was taken by the Japanese, and now seems in a
+prosperous condition. A large rocky mountain, passed later on, was the
+scene of a desperate attempt of the Japanese to dislodge the Russians,
+and here eight thousand of the former lost their lives. At one point a
+tall granite monument was raised to the memory of ten thousand Japanese
+soldiers, all of which gave us a realizing sense of the horrors of the
+conflict. Later, these warlike reminders ceased, and the landscape
+showed broad, well-cultivated fields; indeed, the Manchuria of to-day,
+as far as we could determine, seems a fertile plain; and while a coarser
+cereal is now raised, it seemed possible that this might become a great
+wheat-producing land with proper cultivation.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NIUCHWANG: When near Niuchwang, we came to the city of Shai-seng, and
+saw the long lines of Russian barracks which are now occupied by the
+Japanese. We reached our destination late in the evening, and had a
+jinrikisha ride of over an hour before turning to the Central Hotel,
+which had been greatly damaged by fire, but which we persuaded our
+Director to select for us. Our surroundings were not luxurious, but a
+fairly good dinner awaited us.
+
+In the morning we had a delightful surprise. A call of the Director at
+the English Club the evening previous had resulted in an invitation
+extended to the entire party to breakfast at the residence of Mr. Henry
+A. Bush, of Bush Brothers, a noted firm in the East. Never was an
+invitation more gladly accepted. The mistress of the household was
+absent, but Mr. Bush, aided by friends, did the honors to perfection. It
+was a lovely home and full of good cheer. Two hours later we were sent
+to the station in carriages, and escorted to a junction, nine miles
+away, by a relative of the family. We learned afterward that this
+courtesy was often extended to tourists since the burning of the hotel.
+I am happy to state that both at Mukden and Niuchwang modern hotels will
+be opened at an early date, both being named the Astor House, a favorite
+appellation all through the East.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DALNY: The ride to Dalny (the Japanese wish it called Darien) ended at
+nine in the evening; the scenery _en route_ was not unlike that of the
+day previous, except that we observed a higher degree of cultivation,
+and the plains were more extended, terminating in the distance in low
+ranges of hills. We found Dalny modern in appearance, save in a few
+large buildings which showed their early origin; the Russians had
+planned the place as a model city before the war, which in time might
+become a flourishing adjunct to Port Arthur. The city was evacuated
+before the siege of Port Arthur, the Russians concentrating all their
+strength at the latter point. Dalny is a port of some importance, but we
+were told there was little local business to speak of. Tourists are
+beginning to go there, as it is a convenient point to remain if one
+wishes to visit Port Arthur, which is a long day's excursion, leaving
+early in the morning and returning on an evening train. This has,
+heretofore, been the customary plan of procedure, owing to superior
+hotel facilities at Dalny; but a new hotel was nearly completed at Port
+Arthur when we were there.
+
+[Illustration: _Dalny_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PORT ARTHUR, _June 4th_: We left early for a hard day's excursion to
+Port Arthur. The standpoint of the tourist is that of interest and
+curiosity to see the port which was so recently the scene of such
+tragic events. With military knowledge, the interest would be more in
+observing the strategic position and the methods of defence. Before
+speaking of the incidents of the day, a brief outline of Port Arthur
+will be given as a key to the situation. A view of the place from the
+sea is disappointing, as the hills that circle around the bay are bare
+and destitute of vegetation and foliage. The foothills of a long
+mountain range divide the peninsula of Liao-tung (the circle of the
+hills extending over ten miles); several bays also indent the shore.
+Viewed from the land side, the town and port lie in an amphitheatre,
+hidden from the sea by Golden Hill on one side and by the Tiger's Tail
+Peninsula on the other. This strong position was fortified by the
+Russians in the newest way.
+
+The defence works are divided into coast and inland groups. The coast
+section is the Golden Hill position, which stands at the left side of
+the entrance to the harbor and commands the outer bay. From this hill,
+toward the sea and to the north, making a semicircle, the line of
+fortifications extends three miles, including many permanent works; the
+first of these is called the Silver Hill group, and there are several
+lines lying east and north of this. That group of forts on the left side
+is named the Tiger's Tail Peninsula, and is as strong as Golden Hill on
+the opposite side. The sea just outside of Tiger's Tail was the place
+where the Japanese fleet attacked the Russian squadron at anchor.
+Because of the vast strength of each of these two opposite points, and
+their close communication and support, they have been considered the
+strongest fortresses ever yet invested.
+
+The city of Port Arthur is divided by Monument Hill into two parts, Old
+or East Town, and New or West Town. The old town is the real Port
+Arthur; the new one was formerly a Chinese hamlet, called
+Tai-yo-ko,--the Russians building this section after its occupation. The
+old is a business town; the new an official town. Here we have the
+contrast of a European centre on one side with a Chinese on the other.
+In the old town are situated the Port Admiralty, Navy Yard, Army
+Hospital, Red Cross Hospital, Museum, and Fortress Office, formerly
+General Stoessel's house. In the new town are the Governor General's
+office and some civil administration buildings, a park, and numberless
+residences.
+
+On our arrival at Port Arthur, we took carriages, and, after securing a
+permit, went to the Siege Museum, which is filled with the trophies of
+war, and models of some of the forts that were taken; we examined these
+carefully in order the better to understand the methods employed by the
+Japanese in storming fortifications; tunnelling was the way in which
+the North Fort was taken. The Siege Museum was interesting from another
+point, as it had been the mess-house of the Russian officers of the
+garrison, and the walls were covered with views of the Crimean and other
+wars; there was also a large collection of pictures of Russian generals.
+
+[Illustration: _Port Arthur before the siege_]
+
+We then had a long drive to Monument Hill, which is situated between the
+old and the new town near the railway station. It is a high point,
+commanding the harbor and the forts, and one can obtain a bird's-eye
+view of Port Arthur from its top. On account of its advantageous
+position, General Nogi and Admiral Togo chose the hill for the mausoleum
+and monument which are built in memory of those who lost their lives.
+There are two peaks; the mausoleum is situated on one, the monument on
+the other. The monument, two hundred feet high, was in process of
+construction when we saw it; stones raised from the sunken ships formed
+the principal material in building it. On the opposite peak, with a
+torii in front, as an indication of the Shinto faith, is the mausoleum,
+where the remains of 22,183 officers and soldiers have been buried with
+formal ceremonies. It is impossible to convey an idea of the
+impressiveness of the scene as we stood on this hill, gazing out on a
+landscape significant of war and carnage on every side.
+
+After luncheon at the almost completed new hotel, we had the roughest
+ride I have ever taken--a long distance to the outskirts in order to
+view some of the ruined forts--first, to East Keekwan, the name of a
+group of defence works. The main fort here was so well defended that it
+was considered unassailable from any direction; it was also very
+strongly protected. The assault began on the 18th of August; there was
+very stubborn resistance, and many attacks were necessary before General
+Stoessel, on January 1st, proposed to surrender. As the Russians
+retreated, however, they blew the fort up with dynamite. A scene of
+desolation greeted us in consequence, and it was almost impossible to
+walk across the debris.
+
+We next visited another prominent work belonging to this group, called
+North Fort, the one we had studied at the Museum in the morning, with
+its intricate system of tunnels. These latter represented two shafts,
+three feet high and two feet wide, each forty feet long with four
+trenches; eight mines had been laid, and these were exploded on the 18th
+of December, blowing away the rampart in the northeast and seriously
+damaging the interior. A desperate resistance followed, but the Russians
+finally retreated, destroying a part of the fort before they left. We
+also saw other defences, but had no time to study them, as a long rough
+drive ensued, in order to reach 203-Metre Hill, the scene of the last
+engagement.
+
+[Illustration: _Tiger-Tail Promontory and Port Arthur during the
+conflict_]
+
+203-Metre Hill is the highest eminence of the whole fortified line,
+about two and one-half miles from the new town. It commands the whole
+western harbor, and most of the eastern, and from the top can be seen
+all the fortified positions, including camps and trenches. The
+occupation of this hill was the death-blow to the Russians, and it has
+been called the key to Port Arthur. It was very strongly fortified, and
+the work of occupation was a fearful task, involving a great loss of
+life. Early in September the attack began, and it was taken early in
+December; the Japanese loss in dead and wounded was 7578, and after the
+capitulation of Port Arthur, the Russian remains were collected and
+buried to the number of 5400; the real count was supposed to be more
+than 7000. The possession of this hill by the Japanese sounded the
+death-knell of the Russian fleet, which was practically wiped out of
+existence on the 9th of December. We regretted not being able to visit
+Port Arthur the following week, when a most interesting occasion was to
+occur,--the dedication of the fine monument erected by the Japanese
+Government to the memory of the Russian soldiers who are buried there. I
+saw photographs of the monument, but could not procure one, as they were
+not then for sale. The moral significance of this event was very great,
+as the Russians, officially and non-officially, accepted the gift with
+grateful appreciation.
+
+A friend sent me an account of the exercises at Port Arthur which
+occurred on June 10th. The Russian Archbishop and a number of high
+military officials came from Russia, and General Nogi and other Japanese
+officials from Japan. There were formal exercises of a varied kind. The
+chief feature was the address delivered by the Archbishop. He opened by
+saying "that only by the brave can the brave be appreciated. In this
+world of ours war seems to be unavoidable; at the same time it evokes
+and gives occasion for expressing some of the finest feelings of which
+human nature is capable. The many thousands of men who lie sleeping
+under the monument just unveiled were heroes who loyally and bravely
+laid down their lives in their country's cause. Such men are best
+appreciated by men of their own stamp; and the noble action of the
+Japanese in erecting this monument to the memory of their fallen foes
+showed that the best feelings of which human nature is capable rise
+superior even to the most tragic incidents of life. In performing this
+beautiful deed, the Japanese had not only shown themselves worthy of
+wearing the laurels which they had won, but had also gained a second
+victory even more prolonged and enduring. Amid all the horrors of war,
+humanity must not forget the opportunities it furnishes for the display
+of such traits." The Tokio and other Japanese papers devoted much space
+to accounts of the ceremonies and festivities connected with the
+unveiling of the monument. Some of them seemed to regard it as an
+emotional display, and others found it impossible to read the accounts
+without concluding that the Japanese and Russians had wellnigh, if not
+altogether, laid aside their feeling of mutual hostility.
+
+[Illustration: _203-Metre Hill, Port Arthur--The last point to be
+taken_]
+
+An English gentleman on the train to Dalny spoke of General Stoessel's
+surrender in very caustic terms, basing his position on information
+received from one of the officers on the General's staff. It occurred to
+me that the officer would not be likely to give favorable testimony, as
+there was a possibility of his also suffering penalties in Russia. It
+will always be a mooted question whether the surrender was justified by
+the condition of affairs at Port Arthur; certainly it was in the
+interest of humanity, as it was stated on Japanese authority that there
+were at least twenty-five thousand sick at Port Arthur.
+
+On the following morning, we left Dalny, or Darien, by the steamer
+_Santo Maru_, for Chemulpo, the port of Seoul, Korea.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CHEMULPO, SEOUL, _June 7th_: Chemulpo is an open port and has quite a
+foreign settlement; it now can boast of wide streets and some shops,
+but twenty years ago it was nothing more than a fishing village. The
+Trans-Siberian Railway is the only means of connection between Chemulpo
+and London, twenty-one days being required for the trip. The two hours'
+railway ride between Chemulpo and Seoul affords quite diversified
+scenery.
+
+The situation of Seoul is beautiful. It is a walled city, the entire
+circumference of which is twelve miles, and in this wall are eight
+arched gateways. While the wall itself is not high, it seems to cling
+near to the sides of the foothills and the mountains. These mountains
+are quite bare of vegetation, but the little valleys between the hills
+are green, rice being one of the products cultivated.
+
+Korea to us was mostly Seoul, as there is no provision for guests at
+present in the mountains. We met a gentleman and his two daughters who
+were going to the mountains, but they were to be entertained by a
+missionary family; in time this condition of affairs will no doubt be
+improved, as it is in Java.
+
+Korea is a land of great beauty. The inhabitants are lovers of nature,
+as is shown in the names they give to their mountains and valleys, such
+as The Mountain Fronting the Moon, The Mountain Facing the Sun, The
+Valley of Cool Shade, The Tranquil Sea, and The Hill of White Clouds.
+The descriptions of the mountains in the extreme North are more peculiar
+still: The Peak of the Thousand Buddhas, The Cloud Touchers, and the
+like.
+
+[Illustration: _The city wall and gate of Seoul_]
+
+The people of Korea, as they are viewed on the streets, seem to be
+contented, with apparently a larger leisure class than we had seen in
+any previous city. This was emphasized by the dress of the men,
+consisting of a long white costume open in front, made of a kind of
+grass lawn; a pair of loose trousers, something like the Turkish
+trousers, is worn beneath this. Officials, ministers, and noblemen dress
+elegantly, their costumes being made from the finest silk lawn, and they
+wear silken girdles.
+
+The dress of middle-class women is even more peculiar than that of the
+men. The upper garment is very short, made of white or green lawn or
+calico; a few inches below this is a petticoat, touching the ground;
+between these two garments there is nothing but the bare skin. It is not
+an agreeable spectacle. When on the street, they wear what is called the
+chang-ot; it consists of a long white or green cloak, with green cuffs
+and collar, cut like a sack. The neck of this garment is put over the
+head, and the long white sleeves fall from the ears and are seen
+flapping in the wind.
+
+The single or married man may be known by the style of his hair. The
+single man wears a cue, but when married it is done up in a twist and
+kept in place by a woven horsehair band. We saw a few who had cut their
+hair. The women dress their hair rather plainly on the sides, and do it
+low on their necks in the back.
+
+The women of the better class lead very secluded lives, almost like the
+Zenana; indeed, their customs seem similar to those in India. The
+children up to a certain age are seen in a state of entire nudity.
+
+The girls of the lower class are sold as domestic slaves, and may be
+seen running beside the chairs of their mistresses. They look, however,
+as though they were kindly treated.
+
+The Seoul scenes at night are most peculiar. The women of the upper
+class are allowed to take exercise only at this time. Men formerly were
+excluded from the streets at night, but now are seen. Some one has
+compared this nocturnal city graphically with the old idea of the
+resurrection. Many of the men are supported by the labor of the women of
+their household. The laundry work of a family in Seoul must be very
+considerable on account of the number of white garments worn.
+
+A Korean lady travelling in her sedan chair is quite an imposing
+spectacle. The chairs are somewhat heavier than those we had previously
+seen.
+
+[Illustration: _A group of Koreans_]
+
+The dress of the dancing-girl is many-colored, worn with a profusion of
+sashes and decorations. The head-dress is about three times as high as
+that worn by a Manchu woman. The costume consists of a white flowing
+under-robe, and over this a colored silk robe. There are very large
+sleeves and a sash worn high on the waist. The robe falls apart in front
+and shows loose trousers. The dancing-girl and the singing-girl
+correspond to the geisha and Maiko of Japan.
+
+Sight-seeing in Seoul is less exhausting than in other cities, as there
+are no galleries, museums, or elaborate tombs to be described. The
+interest in the city is found amongst its street scenes and in the
+peculiar life of its people.
+
+Seoul spreads out over a plain, which extends to the mountains. There is
+quite a variety of scenery included within its area. The country near by
+is extremely picturesque, quite unlike the outskirts of Peking. There
+are small villages and pleasant walks and drives at an easy distance
+from the city.
+
+The bazars are placed far out on the street, except in one point where
+there seems to be only one central bazar.
+
+The manufacture of brass is the specialty of Seoul; all the ancient
+forms are reproduced. Some of our party purchased large collections of
+artistic and serviceable articles.
+
+The most imposing building is the Temple of Heaven. It is bare, compared
+with the one at Peking, but it has some features that are similar and
+is made of marble. It is, however, a combination of the two temples seen
+in Peking, opening at the side, and having an open roof over the centre;
+adjoining it there is a three-story pagoda, much like a pavilion in many
+respects.
+
+The ancient tomb of the old Korean noblemen interested us. It is of
+marble, with a peculiar carving on top. At the base is an immense
+tortoise.
+
+The Buddhist temple was also visited. This had an imposing entrance
+approached by white marble steps. It was spacious, but architecturally
+far inferior to those we had seen elsewhere. The upturned roof was
+interesting.
+
+The marble pagoda, rising seven stories above the base, was really very
+beautiful. It had a special small enclosure about it, filled with
+flowers. This enclosure was in a large park, which contained an artistic
+pavilion, evidently for the convenience of people who wished to view the
+pagoda.
+
+There are said to be eighteen palaces in Seoul. Some of these at present
+are not in use. We passed the new marble palace where the Emperor was
+staying. Then we went on to the large old palace which has been vacant
+ever since the assassination of the Queen. There were imposing entrance
+gates here, and many preliminary buildings before we reached the most
+important ones. The Audience Hall is very spacious and very well
+proportioned. The approach to it is fine, consisting of many marble
+seats where the high officials sat when his Majesty appeared. From the
+exterior the Audience Hall seems to have two stories, as there are two
+of the peculiar Chinese roofs, but inside it forms one very high room.
+The Audience Hall as a building is a great decorative feature in the
+palace grounds. There is one other large room in it called, I believe,
+the Hall of Congratulation.
+
+[Illustration: _An old tomb of a high official_]
+
+We passed on to the palace of the assassinated Queen. This has now been
+torn down by order of the Resident General, on account of its unpleasant
+association both to the Koreans and to the Japanese. It originally
+covered a good deal of ground and must have been spacious. The grounds
+are very large and interesting, containing many lovely trees. One
+building therein was raised like an immense pavilion and surrounded by a
+miniature lake, very pleasing with its setting of green and at times
+covered with water-lilies.
+
+Quite a pretentious building, with its wide projecting Chinese eaves
+open on all sides and showing columns, was the one which contained the
+monument erected in honor of the Emperor's jubilee.
+
+A picturesque feature of the city consists of the gates of the Wall. We
+took drives through these to different points near by. Particularly
+noticeable is the Western Gate, or Gate of General Righteousness. This
+is massive, showing the thickness of the wall, and the high roof over
+the arch is very effective.
+
+All the hills around Korea are considered sacred and are dedicated to
+burial purposes. In one alone, seventy-five thousand persons are placed.
+The drive presents very diversified scenery. As we approached the tomb
+of the Queen, considerable formality was required. It was necessary to
+possess a permit, soldiers being stationed outside the grounds. The hill
+was very broad and quite steep at places, and on top the large tomb was
+composed of marble. We could have visited several others, but preferred
+to return home by the way of an old Buddhist monastery, a great part of
+the road being lined with trees on either side. We found the monastery
+rather dismantled and but few monks in attendance. They have to endure
+many privations, and their surroundings looked extremely bare.
+
+After this excursion, we ended the day by attending the Korean Theatre.
+The ride there was interesting, as we saw all the particular evening
+sights I have described. The arrangement of the room was very simple; we
+sat in elevated boxes at the sides. About the stage all the details were
+primitive. The action of the play was poor, but the enthusiasm of the
+audience was great. We remained but a short time.
+
+[Illustration: _A white marble pagoda in Seoul_]
+
+In the matter of education the women of the higher class are somewhat
+above the average, but those of the middle and lower classes are
+entirely ignorant. Education is one of the many recent reforms
+instituted; the old order of things is rapidly being changed.
+Electricity has been introduced, electric trams extend some distances
+even into the country, and there is a good postal service. A gentleman
+who had been a resident for some fifteen years is my authority for
+stating that in his opinion the mistake the Japanese were making in
+their protectorate was in pushing reforms too rapidly. The Koreans are
+slow in their response to foreign and western ideas.
+
+The deposed King seems to be of a peculiar type. He is described as
+having a weakness for intrigue, his early education having been received
+under conditions that foster such qualities. He was married at thirteen
+years of age to the late Queen; she was said to be unusually gifted, and
+an attractive woman, even though unscrupulous and at times cruel.
+
+There are many opinions regarding the immediate outcome of Japan's
+protectorate over Korea. Those who have faith in the integrity of
+Marquis Ito believe in good results; others fear that the invasion of a
+large number of Japanese having business interests will rather
+overshadow the Koreans, who are indolent and inclined to take their
+ease. On this subject there can be only conjecture; time will decide.
+An interesting book, "In Korea with Marquis Ito," which has been
+published during the year, deals with this question fully; George
+Trumbull Ladd is the author.
+
+Looking backward, we find that the kings of Korea were the vassals of
+China for a long period, but as one of the results of the
+Chinese-Japanese war, there was a complete renunciation of the authority
+of the Emperor of China. Hence it seems strange that at the close of the
+Russian-Japanese war another important change and crisis should have
+come to Korea.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FROM SEOUL, KOREA, TO YOKOHAMA: We left Seoul at eight on the morning of
+June 9th for Fusan, and the railway journey, an all-day trip, was a
+fatiguing one, owing to the dust; but we had glimpses of mountain
+scenery and plains. Fusan was simply a point of departure for Japan. We
+took our steamer, _Satsuma-maru_, at six that evening for the night
+only, as we were due at Shimonoseki early the next morning. The approach
+here was through the straits, and was unlike any previous view,--a wide
+entrance between two high promontories, with mountains on either side.
+
+[Illustration: _Street scene in Seoul_]
+
+Shimonoseki is quite an important point commercially, but our stay was,
+as I say, one of convenience only, since we took the train at 9.30 for
+Miyajima and the Sacred Island. This is considered the finest railway
+trip in Japan as regards scenery, and our exclamations of delight were
+many, for there were mountains covered with verdure and rice-fields, and
+from time to time glimpses of the famed Inland Sea. We had long
+anticipated this visit to the Sacred Island; we knew Miyajima had a
+population of three thousand, and was a fishing village, aside from the
+great interest which attaches to the temples; that the island rose
+eighteen hundred feet above the sea and was rocky, although covered with
+heavy foliage; but I was unprepared for the unique charm that awaited
+us.
+
+The approach to Miyajima, as we crossed the lake, gave us a fine first
+impression,--the great torii standing boldly forth from its watery base;
+the stone lanterns in the foreground; the temple seen dimly through the
+green; and the thickly wooded hills in the background all added greatly
+to the landscape. At our right, on an eminence, was situated the Mikado
+Hotel, which was to shelter us, and which we later found to be an ideal
+abiding-place.
+
+We proceeded at once to the great temple, which, with its corridors and
+galleries, six hundred feet long, represented something distinctively
+unique. One line of galleries extends out into the water at high tide,
+and stretches out like so many arms in various directions; a new series
+is being constructed. All of these intricate passages centre in the
+great temple, large and finely proportioned, but, like all Shinto
+buildings, comparatively simple as regards adornment. As we approached,
+we were confronted by at least twenty-five priests and ten
+dancing-girls, who were grouped together for a photograph; the priests'
+robes and the many-colored dresses of the girls produced a striking
+effect, as they sat on a platform in front of the temple. Later the
+girls went through several of the so-called "holy dances"; we were not
+permitted to enter the temple.
+
+Passing through a long corridor, we next ascended a hill and visited the
+unique Temple of a Thousand Mats. This is grim with age but of immense
+proportions, and having many rows of columns, covered from base to
+capital with small wooden mats shaped somewhat like butter ladles, each
+one of which is inscribed with the name and residence of the donor; the
+ladles are on sale at the temple. Not only the pillars, but every
+available place in the temple, is thus utilized, producing a very
+grotesque effect. The plan consists in each person writing his name,
+residence, and some sentiment on these mats; it originated after the
+Chinese-Japanese war in 1894, when pilgrims came to visit the temple and
+thus paid tribute to it.
+
+[Illustration: _Torii Miyajima_]
+
+Near the temple there is an imposing pagoda, also of ancient date, and
+on an adjacent knoll another shrine. Returning to the hotel, we noted
+many more stone lanterns, and still another temple with its attendant
+torii. We also passed through the lane-like streets of the village,
+thickly lined with bazars; the shops were filled with many tasteful
+articles, carved wood being a specialty in Miyajima. These shops
+reminded us of Switzerland, as did the heights, a portion of which is
+covered with an attractive park.
+
+After dinner, we regretfully bade adieu to the members of the
+Trans-Siberian party, leaving only Miss M---- and myself to return to
+Yokohama. To speed them across the lake, their guide had arranged for an
+illumination, produced by lighting candles in many of the tall stone
+lanterns; this we also enjoyed, our guide taking us out on the lake in a
+sampan; and as we rode toward the great torii it seemed to assume
+immense proportions, while the effect of the lanterns was magical. It
+was indeed a fairylike scene.
+
+We were called at four the following morning, breakfasted at five, and
+were on our steamer before six for the trip to Onomichi on the Inland
+Sea. The island was lovely as we left in the early light; and the whole
+landscape, from the towering mountain in the distance, the lesser ones
+sloping down to the plateau, to the sea, scintillated in brilliant
+color; even the great stone lanterns that were so unique the evening
+previous now stood out in bold relief, and the old torii was statelier
+than ever. As the little village and shore line faded away, we wished an
+artist could have caught the view. We sailed out into the finest part of
+the Inland Sea, where the shore was deeply indented with rocky
+promontories, which first ended in a high projection to our right; to
+the left was a continuous line of low islands. A wide extent of open sea
+was the next scene in the panorama, to be succeeded by a picturesque
+island, clad in verdure; then two small, boldly defined, rocky islands;
+next a low range of five islands slightly connected, seeming like a tiny
+range in mid-ocean; a higher chain of islands was crenellated and
+presented the appearance of being scooped out and showing a light yellow
+soil. The scene now narrowed, and the mountains on either side showed
+signs of cultivation, the terraces running almost to the top. The guide
+told us that barley was the principal cereal raised. A marvellous island
+to our left now presented itself; this had a high, rocky base, from
+which seemingly sprang a miniature forest, the tall towering evergreens
+lending a fringelike appearance near the skyline. And so the panorama
+continued with ever-increasing variety.
+
+[Illustration: _Stone lanterns, Miyajima_]
+
+We paused at Ujima, the port of Hiroshima, where perhaps is located the
+most wonderful garden in Japan. Ujima is a place of twelve thousand
+inhabitants, and the taking on of cargo consumed an hour. Soon after, we
+came to an island which had been transformed into a magazine; the side
+presented to us was a solid wall of rock. This was the precursor to our
+arrival at Kore, the most important naval station in Japan. The steamer
+touched anchor, which gave us an opportunity to note the many
+war-vessels in the harbor, three of which had been captured from the
+Russians.
+
+Our next point for landing passengers was Tukehare, in the narrowest
+part of the Inland Sea, with the Pass of Oudo in Sato-See. Here
+something unexpected occurred, as the steamer ran aground; and, after
+persistent efforts to effect our release, a naval craft came to our
+assistance and had to tow the steamer through.
+
+The scene now widened so that the shore seemed distant; this gave leeway
+for shipping of various kinds, large and small, and at one time I
+counted forty-five craft around us. Small sampans with three or four
+sails predominated. Our interest now centred not so much on shore as on
+boldly defined islands that occasionally came into view. In another
+place there were five promontories apparently in a direct line,--the
+first, dark green; the next, pale green; the next, brown in tint; the
+next, rocky; the fifth, foliage,--a veritable poem in color. We stopped
+for passengers three times before reaching our destination.
+
+Our lovely trip on the Inland Sea ended at the little port of Onomichi,
+where, you will remember, we passed the night at a Japanese inn. We left
+at once, and visited some of the temples for which Onomichi is famous.
+We first went to a very old Buddhist place with an equally ancient
+pagoda, Sinkokuji; this was at quite a height above the street, and was
+in decay. Interest centred chiefly in the Senkiji Temple, rudely formed
+of huge blocks of granite which seem to spring from the soil; to reach
+this, we climbed a succession of tiers of stairs, each landing affording
+an extended view of the hamlet. The shrine and the details of this
+rock-bound temple were very simple, but there was a weird impressiveness
+about it.
+
+At five we took the train for Kobe, arriving there at nine, this time
+staying at the Mikado Hotel. Having been there twice before, the visit
+was simply in order to break the trip to Yokohama; so a jinrikisha ride
+and a visit to a few shops the morning following sufficed in the
+sight-seeing line; and in the evening we took the night train for
+Yokohama, arriving there early on the morning of June 12th. Yokohama was
+to be our headquarters until the homeward sailing, June 29th.
+
+[Illustration: _Islands of the Inland Sea_]
+
+I have before spoken of the beauty of the bay and the fine location of
+the city. The heights reminded me of Hong-Kong; but on this third visit
+the scene seemed to have gained new interest, for all Nature was in her
+Summer dress, and the streets and parks teemed with life. There were
+many jinrikisha rides and much general enjoyment during the two weeks
+and a half that followed. Yokohama is a modern city and not famed for
+sight-seeing particularly, aside from the shops, which are of great
+interest and are filled with beautiful things; the curios, silks, and
+embroideries were very enticing, and, as dressmaking can be done well
+and economically by many of the Chinese tailors, some time is devoted
+even by tourists to that.
+
+Moto-machi Temple is of interest, heading the little shopping street of
+that name, which, with Benten-dori divides the interest as regards small
+but well-equipped native stores. The temple is Buddhist.
+
+Nogeshima is a hill from which an extended view of the city and harbor
+may be enjoyed. With cherry blossoms in May, great fields of
+many-colored iris marked the month of June, and an expedition to such a
+field proved attractive. The ride around Mississippi Bay is possibly the
+greatest trip for an afternoon's excursion. A picturesque feature of the
+city is the one hundred steps leading to the heights, on the top of
+which is a tea-house, largely frequented by residents. The many
+pleasant homes and churches make the heights very attractive, and one
+morning we extended our jinrikisha ride to the outskirts so as to visit
+the gardens and greenhouses of a young Japanese who supplies the hotel
+with peculiar dwarfed plants for the dining-room tables. We saw some
+maples and cedars twelve inches in height and fifteen years old.
+
+The park, attractive at any time, is especially interesting in May on
+account of the cherry blossoms. It must be remembered that Yokohama was
+only a fishing village when Commodore Perry anchored there in 1854; it
+was not the treaty port until 1858, and from that time begins its
+commercial importance. The greatest portion of the city as it now exists
+dates from after the fire of 1866, and the bluff on which most of the
+residents have their dwellings was first leased for building purposes in
+1867; since then a large native town has sprung up outside the foreign
+settlement.
+
+The principal excursion from Yokohama is to Kamakura, about one hour's
+ride by train. It was once the capital of Japan, from the end of the
+twelfth to the fifteenth century, numbering over one million
+inhabitants; but it now affords no indication of its former glory; it is
+only a little seaside village to-day, and its principal interests are
+the great Dai-butzu, or Buddha, and certain other temples; the Buddha is
+renowned among Japanese works of art. We took a jinrikisha from the
+station, and first visited the Temple of Hachiman, which occupies a high
+position on a hill and is reached through an avenue of pine trees. We
+passed through three stone toriis before reaching the temple, which
+stands at the head of a broad flight of stone steps.
+
+[Illustration: _Mississippi Bay_]
+
+The perspective when approaching the gigantic Buddha is fine, and gives
+one, at a distance even, the impression of great majesty. This work
+dates from about 1252 A.D. It was originally enclosed in a building,
+fifty yards square, whose roof was supported on sixty-three massive
+wooden pillars. The temple buildings were twice destroyed by tidal
+waves, since which they have not been re-erected, and the image has
+therefore been exposed to the elements. Within the statue is a large
+room. As we approached the great bronze Buddha, we realized an
+indefinable, spiritual significance; it stands over forty-nine feet high
+and ninety-seven feet in circumference, but appears serene, seemingly in
+the attainment of absolute peace after having reached the Nirvana.
+
+The Temple of Kwannon is not far from the Dai-butzu, on an eminence,
+commanding a beautiful view of the seashore and the plain. We had
+luncheon at a pretty seaside hotel, Kamakura now being a Summer resort.
+Afterwards we took a tram for the Sacred Island of Enoshima. Arriving
+at the village of Katse, we walked across to the island. Enoshima
+presents a high wooded aspect, and through the foliage on the heights
+one can obtain glimpses of many tea-houses. From the earliest ages the
+island was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist goddess of love. Nearly all of
+the temples are dedicated to Shinto goddesses. The most sacred spot is a
+cave on the far side of the island, one hundred and twenty-four yards in
+depth, the height at the entrance being at least thirty feet.
+
+We next took the train for Yumoto, the point of departure by jinrikisha
+for Miyanoshita.
+
+The train ride to Yumoto was most unusual, as the line lay through a
+succession of small villages, the road sometimes being so narrow that we
+could see into the homes or look into shop windows as we went through a
+business street. At Yumoto we took a jinrikisha for the ascent to
+Miyanoshita; the route was picturesque. To the left were mountains, the
+rocky sides sometimes projecting over the roadway, and giving me the
+sensation of imminent danger.
+
+[Illustration: _View of Miyanoshita_]
+
+To the right, far below, was a long extended valley through which poured
+a mountain stream, the murmur of which was a continual refrain. On the
+other side of the valley was a towering range of mountains. The whole
+scene affects one in a peculiarly subtle way; there is a sensation of
+being withdrawn from the actual experiences, of living in a new and
+far-away world. Suddenly the road diverged, and we had mountains on
+either side; another turn, and on a tree was a signboard, "Durkee's
+Scotch Whiskey." Instantly the "supreme moment" vanished, and I was
+again in my home city, and one of a band of women battling "the
+bill-board nuisance." I was rebellious at thus being despoiled of my
+poetic mood and tried to regain lost ground, but erelong another turn
+and Durkee's Scotch Whiskey again appeared! Sadly I resigned myself to
+fate and awaited our arrival at the Fujira Hotel.
+
+It was dark when we reached the little village and went still farther up
+the slope to where the lights were gleaming from the circling,
+four-divisioned hostelry.
+
+As I entered the spacious hall and caught glimpses of the adjacent
+apartments, then went upward to my own dainty room furnished in European
+style, I felt a sense of relief. Two little maids appeared to offer
+service, a pretty kimono and slippers suggested comfort, and I was
+content! Descending to the dining-room a little later, I met an English
+lady and her brother, who had been steamer and hotel companions several
+times, and this furnished more good cheer.
+
+The following morning, I joined an early party for the excursion to Lake
+Hakone. It was a glorious day and promised well for the hoped-for view
+of Mt. Fujiyama, 12,000 feet above the sea.
+
+The way is too rough and mountainous to be taken other than in a sedan
+chair. At first we had lovely mountain scenery, then the road grew
+wilder and mountain gorges appeared on either hand, then in one place
+there were far distant mountains, a nearer range almost sloping to our
+pathway. Sometimes the ascent was so steep and the path so narrow that
+it required much holding on to retain the seat in the chair.
+
+This was even more difficult when we began to make our descent to the
+village, which is, however, 2378 feet above the sea (Miyanoshita is 1377
+feet). The little Japanese tea-house where we tarried and had our
+luncheon is finely located close to the shore of Lake Hakone, a
+beautiful body of water with wooded shores. This lake is popular for
+boating and bathing.
+
+From the window we looked out on the distant sacred mountain, Fujiyama,
+which is revered by all Japan. Sometimes the clouds rested lovingly on
+its crest, and sometimes almost veiled it, but twice we saw the entire
+snow-covered space and no adjective can describe the matchless glory of
+that view. Poets have sung of it, and legend has woven fantastic tales
+around it, which the natives accept without a doubt.
+
+Mt. Fugii is the scene in Summer of constant visitations--about forty
+thousand pilgrims appearing there yearly, mostly of the working-class.
+Before the sixteenth century the mountain was in a constant state of
+eruption, the last great activity occurring at the beginning of the
+eighteenth century.
+
+The ride across the lake is pleasant,--the castle an interesting
+feature,--and by taking it, one discovers a different way to return to
+Miyanoshita, but I preferred the route of the morning, as the reverse
+views are always reinforcingly interesting.
+
+There were pleasant short walks from our hotel and many very easy
+excursions, so one naturally lingers, as long as possible. The friends I
+alluded to had been there two weeks. I left with regret.
+
+The third morning we started out in a pouring rain, and so had a closed
+jinrikisha; if we missed the beauty of the scenery in our descent to
+Yumoto, we took comfort in the fact that we escaped the "bill-board"!
+
+Arriving at Yokohama, I found a whole bevy of friends at the hotel
+awaiting the departure of the next steamer for San Francisco. We had all
+met at different places, once, twice, or thrice, and thus pleasant
+reminiscences and sociability now prevailed. Three were to leave on the
+_Korea_, scheduled to sail on June 29th, which augured well for my
+homeward passage.
+
+I had intended returning to Tokio, but, remembering each detail of my
+former visit vividly, I decided instead to try to see Tokio through
+others' eyes. The Emperor and Empress are spoken of with the utmost
+respect, the Emperor being progressive in public and political ideas.
+The Empress is said to have a fine mind and to be accomplished; in
+matters of social importance she has been instrumental in breaking down
+many barriers; and while we needs must regret the adoption of Parisian
+modes of dress by the court, we must remember it was done with the
+distinct purpose of harmonizing the customs of the Orient with those of
+the Occident. A diplomat spoke of Tokio as an agreeable place of
+residence in every way. Native and foreign hospitality in the home are
+absolutely separate; the Japanese wife does not receive general visits,
+but her husband may entertain royally at his club, and most elaborate
+entertainments are spoken of. The social circles of Tokio and Yokohama
+have common interests, as the cities are but a short distance apart and
+there is a mutual acquaintance. I met two American ladies who have
+resided over thirty-five years in Yokohama, and they are most loyal in
+their views.
+
+[Illustration: _Theatre Street in Yokohama_]
+
+In other lands I have visited, I have only dared give a tourist's
+impressions fortified by some acknowledged authority, or by those who
+have had the advantage of a long-time residence. My Japanese impressions
+can only hint at what this wonderful land offers in beauty, in poetic
+sentiment, and in development of life. To understand her people, one
+must be a student for years; even Lafcadio Hearn admitted, after sixteen
+years, that he knew very little of the land and of the people. Every
+bow, every courtesy embodies a tradition of ages, handed down from
+generation to generation. This truth should do away with the popular
+belief that Japanese courtesy is all affectation.
+
+There is another statement that ought to be carefully considered; it is
+that the Japanese, as a people, are dishonest. I have heard this opinion
+expressed usually in a comparison between the Chinese and the Japanese,
+the instance of employment of Chinese bookkeepers and accountants being
+cited as proof. I talked with several persons who had ground for their
+belief, and the consensus of opinion exonerated the Japanese from so
+serious a charge. One said the Japanese, with all their versatility,
+have little aptitude for figures and realize it; another said that a
+descendant of the old samurai would scorn to take the position of a
+bookkeeper, considering the position beneath him. Everywhere in Japan I
+left doors and drawers unlocked and never lost an article. At the hotel
+in Yokohama, when leaving for a three days' absence, I applied at the
+office for keys to the chiffonier and wardrobe. The clerk said, "Does
+your door lock?" I replied, "Yes." "You need then have no fear, as the
+servants are invariably honest." One gentleman, however, admitted that
+in the matter of the verbal contract the Chinaman would consider it to
+be as binding as a written one, while the Japanese might break it. We
+Americans usually require written contracts at home, and we occasionally
+hear of dishonesty and defalcation; but would we for a moment like to be
+considered a dishonest people because of these isolated instances?
+
+We were constantly meeting some one who was contrasting the two
+countries with a view of emphasizing China's supremacy. Many seemed
+jealous because Japan had succeeded in shaking off the shackles imposed
+by law and custom, and had made remarkable strides along the lines of
+progress. China with her wonderful past, her great resources and
+intellectual force, will do the same thing some day, when she emerges
+from a tyranny of law and tradition that covers a "modern" period of
+three thousand years. The victory of Japan over China in 1894 taught one
+lesson; but the Russian-Japanese war was even a greater lesson,--one
+that the new party in China has not failed to make use of, and only time
+can tell the outcome. The difference between the two nations is one of
+kind, not of degree; there is little racial sympathy between them, and
+fifty years from now, if one reads the signs correctly, there may be
+more sympathy between Japan and Russia than between Japan and China.
+
+[Illustration: _Mountains around Hakona_]
+
+The Japanese are sincere in their unbounded desire to improve,
+particularly to acquire a knowledge of English and other languages. In
+shops or corners you will see unkempt boys poring over an English primer
+or reader. They are all provident as a people, and since the close of
+the war the nation has bent every energy toward industrial development.
+
+Considerable has been said about the Japanese war loan; there is
+authority for stating that much of the money thus borrowed at that time
+was used for industrial expansion, as six railways alone were bought in
+1906, and we have seen the amount expended in Manchuria in keeping up a
+long line in an alien land at a great expense. Of Japan's commercial
+future much might be said. Truly, we of the United States ought to
+respect a people who have ideals somewhat like our own.
+
+So many courtesies had been extended to us at the Grand Hotel in
+Yokohama that we left with a profound feeling of appreciation. The
+steamer _Korea_, of the Pacific Line, was to be our home for sixteen
+days. A friend arrived from North China, who became my room-mate, and
+the conditions were in every way pleasant. The social life aboard was
+similar to that on an English steamer; many games were projected and
+prizes given, the most elaborate things being reserved for the Fourth of
+July, both for children and adults. Greatly to my surprise, I was
+awakened on that morning by a volley of fire-crackers from the end of
+the deck. A festive spirit prevailed all day, and in the evening an
+extensive concert was given in the salon.
+
+The first real excitement was our arrival at Honolulu on July 9th, where
+we were allowed one day. The city, with its beautiful location and
+tropical vegetation, is too well known to need description. We went
+first by automobile to Mt. Pali, quite a distance in the country; here
+we had a wonderful view looking across a long level stretch to a point
+beyond which were rice-fields in the stage of early green, and beyond
+that a sugar plantation, and beyond that still farther off a mass of
+green foliage. The landscape at once marked Honolulu as being somewhat
+akin to Java. The mountains here are volcanic in their origin.
+
+[Illustration: _Mount Pali, Honolulu_]
+
+Returning from Pali, we went to the Punch Bowl and Diamond Head, an
+extinct volcano. Next, we took a long drive along the sea front to the
+beautiful hotel called Moana, where we met friends. The ride led through
+one of the principal residence streets, and we noticed beautiful homes
+with their extensive grounds and profusion of palms, shrubs, and
+flowers. We also saw the former palace of the Queen, which is now
+reserved as the Governor's residence. We then went to Young's Hotel for
+lunch, and, after that, visited some minor points of interest and some
+shops, returning to the steamer in the late afternoon, feeling that
+Honolulu was indeed one of the beauty spots of earth. On reaching the
+ship, it seemed as if every passenger--man, woman, and child--was
+decorated with long wreaths of flowers reaching to the ground; the
+flowers are ruthlessly pulled to pieces and strung together to tempt the
+tourists. It was really a very beautiful sight, but unfortunately the
+flowers soon faded.
+
+The day following we saw the battle fleet, only about two miles distant,
+_en route_ for Yokohama; there were fifteen war-vessels, and it was
+indeed a wonderful spectacle.
+
+We arrived in the harbor of San Francisco at noon on July 14th, and,
+after the usual delay with the health officer, we were soon in the
+throes of the custom house, and it was an ordeal never before
+experienced. We had been told by the steward on the steamer that we must
+strictly follow the regulations laid down in the circular issued by the
+Government, December, 1907. I paid the penalty of my honesty, and the
+law was strictly enforced. I said to the custom house officer: "The lady
+opposite was through nearly an hour ago." He remarked: "She probably
+told a good many lies." And that was the consolation I had; having paid
+my duty in a resigned frame of mind, believing in a protective tariff, I
+departed.
+
+The view of the harbor as we entered had seemed quite as it was of old,
+and indeed its beauty impressed me more than ever before; but, as I left
+the wharf and drove along some of the streets of the earthquake-stricken
+city, there was a heartache, so much of wreck and ruin was evident. My
+companion, who was in San Francisco two years before, told me that the
+renovation seemed wonderful,--an opinion in which I concurred after
+arriving at the St. Francis Hotel, for there were fine blocks newly
+built in the vicinity.
+
+I remained a few days in San Francisco, and visited certain familiar
+points, most of my friends being out of the city in the month of July. I
+went across to the beautiful suburb of Oakland and visited some shops
+which seemed to me quite equal (except in their buildings) to those of
+old. No one can visit San Francisco at the present time without being
+impressed with the energy and enthusiasm displayed and by the amount of
+work being accomplished.
+
+I left on July 20th, over the Shasta route of the Southern Pacific. This
+way is so widely known for its beauty of scenery that it seems
+unnecessary to attempt any description. Mt. Shasta wore a smiling face
+the morning of our arrival, the recent heat wave having melted much of
+the snow that crowns its rugged summit.
+
+Portland has a splendid location, with mountains and the sea alike
+accessible, broad streets, and an unusually fine residence portion. Mt.
+Hood was, however, wreathed in smoke on account of the prevailing forest
+fires. The railway journey from Portland to Seattle is not lacking in
+interest, as there is varied scenery the entire way.
+
+A week in Seattle revived the impression of three years since, but the
+city has made wonderful progress meanwhile, not only in growth of
+population but in important public buildings and in the wealth of
+private residences, particularly on the heights for which Seattle, like
+San Francisco, is famous. Mt. Rainier was shrouded in mist and smoke,
+but Puget Sound and Lakes Washington and Union added unusual features to
+the landscape setting.
+
+A detour of a day to Tacoma showed another beautifully located city high
+above Puget Sound, which, having once been very prosperous, passed
+through a reactionary stage, but is again alert and vigorous. Tacoma has
+also fine buildings and attractive homes, and a great future lies before
+it.
+
+The railway journey from Seattle to Bellingham--about one hundred
+miles--is interesting, for until we reach Everett we have Puget Sound
+to our left and forests to our right, only broken at a few points by
+small towns. Then we lose sight of the Sound until within a few miles of
+Bellingham. The next reach of intervening waterway is termed Bellingham
+Bay, and it furnishes a setting for a city situated both on hills and
+lowland, withal very picturesque, Mt. Baker near in view and the Selkirk
+range dimly visible. Bellingham is really a combination of four towns,
+Whatcom, Fair Haven, Sea Home, and South Bellingham; it is a city of
+about thirty-seven thousand inhabitants. The unifying process is going
+on, and in a few years its separate identity will be forgotten, for with
+its large interests--lumber and the salmon fisheries (here are located
+the most important establishments in the world for the canning of
+salmon)--Bellingham has a future before it, and my sojourn there is
+fraught with many pleasant recollections of courtesies received, aside
+from the good cheer of my daughter's home.
+
+The State of Washington, with its fine climate, great forests, and
+fertile soil, supplemented by natural beauty of landscape, proved a
+revelation to me.
+
+My way eastward lay over the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Three years
+previous I had passed days in the Canadian Rockies; so Vancouver,
+Glacier, Field, Laggan, and Banff recalled familiar associations, while
+the intervening scenery had lost none of its exciting interest. Certain
+it is that you rarely find finer mountains, either at home or abroad.
+
+A few hours' stay in St. Paul and the renewal of some pleasant
+associations, and I was speeding homeward, arriving in Milwaukee early
+on the morning of September 30, 1908, almost a year from the time of my
+departure.
+
+In closing let me quote an extract, written eight years ago, on a return
+with my daughter from over a year's absence abroad (including the
+Western Orient): "Gazing on the lake front at Juneau Park and looking
+onward to the terraced slopes of Prospect Avenue, then on to the sky
+line of the water-tower, I exclaimed, 'No fairer scene has met my
+vision.' At which sentiment the bronze statue of Solomon Juneau before
+me seemed to nod approval, as a Founder should."
+
+  THE END
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Realizing from personal experience, as well as from observation,
+that the mosques are too hurriedly visited and too little understood, an
+attempt at classification has here been made, as well as to give them a
+certain setting. This may prove a reminiscence to those who are familiar
+with the mosques, and an incentive to investigation on the part of those
+who are yet to visit Cairo.
+
+[2] In 1877 Delhi acquired prominence as the place where H.M. Queen
+Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India. The magnificent Coronation
+Durbar of H.M. King Edward VII of England was also held there by Lord
+Curzon, Viceroy of India, on January 1, 1900.
+
+[3] This seeming repetition refers to a second Pearl Mosque.
+
+[4] Buitenzorg divides the honor with Batavia of being a capital, and
+its beauty of location and fine climate (seven hundred feet above the
+sea-level) make it a favorite resort, as well as the centre of the
+wealth and fashion of the island. In Buitenzorg one might linger on
+indefinitely and never count the days.
+
+[5] There has been a yearly revenue of $20,000,000 for some time.
+
+[6] Mr. Macheeda proved himself worthy of his descent from the Samurai;
+always a gentleman and a perfect guide.
+
+[7] For a full and picturesque account of this process, the reader is
+referred to Kipling's "From Sea to Sea."
+
+
+
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+Every attempt has been made to preserve the author's variant spelling
+and punctuation. Obvious spelling error's or place name references have
+been corrected as shown below:
+
+  Page Author                 Transcriber
+   32  crediulous             credulous
+   32  beleve                 believe
+   72  Dteb-Fatehpur-Sikri    Fatehpur-Sikri
+   72  Shiah Mahal            Shish Mahal
+   83  superstitition         superstition
+  101  Kyank taw Gyi          Kyauk Taw Gyi
+  116  Conemara               Connemara
+  126  pinkahs                punkahs
+  151  chicona                chichona
+  166  Water Castel           Water Castle
+  171  kimona                 kimono
+  190  cerain                 certain
+  200  Nuen Tang              Nuen-tung
+  266  China                  Japan
+  330  mavellous              marvellous
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST***
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