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diff --git a/24787-0.txt b/24787-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6f9218b --- /dev/null +++ b/24787-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,27606 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook of The South of France—East Half, by Charles Bertram Black + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you +will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before +using this eBook. + +Title: The South of France—East Half + +Author: Charles Bertram Black + +Release Date: March 9, 2008 [eBook #24787] +[Most recently updated: January 14, 2021] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +Produced by: Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE—EAST HALF *** + + + + +The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in +the text, though not in the introductory section: + +“Those with the figure 1 are first-class houses, with +2 second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are +especially good of their class.” + +A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the +text with mouse-hover +popups. Missing “from” or “to” mileage numbers have not been +individually noted. + + + +map of France + + + +SOUTH OF FRANCE + +EAST HALF + + + +GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK. + + + +SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH, with +Maps and Plan of Bath. 1s. + +TOURIST’S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY, ALDERNEY and SARK. Illustrated with +6 Maps and Plan of the Town of Saint +Helier. Second edition. 1s. + +CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s. + +BELGIUM, including Rotterdam, Flushing, +Middelburg, Schiedam and Luxembourg. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps. +2s. 6d. + +NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the Mineral Waters of Contrexéville, Vittel, Martigny, +Plombières, Luxeuil, Aix-la-chapelle, etc. Illustrated with 5 +Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s. 6d. + +TOURAINE, NORMANDY AND BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15 +Plans. Eighth edition. 5s. + +The above two contain the North Half of +France; or France from the Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of +Biscay to the Rhine. + +THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from Marseilles to Leghorn, including Lucca, +Pisa and Florence. Illustrated +with 8 Maps and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s. 6d. + +FRANCE—South-East +Half—including the whole of the Valley of the Rhône in France, with the adjacent +Departments; the Valley of the Upper +Loire, with the adjacent Departments; the Riviera; the Passes +between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of Turin, Piacenza, Modena, Bologna, Florence, Leghorn +and Pisa. Illustrated with numerous +Maps and Plans. Fourth edition. 5s. + + + +From “Scotsman,” June 2, 1884. + +“_C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that +character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally +acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which +only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent +observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’ +the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity +of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common +mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest +apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer._” + + + +THE + +SOUTH OF FRANCE + +EAST HALF + +INCLUDING THE VALLEYS OF + +THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE + +the BATHS of + +VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE + +THE WHOLE OF THE + +RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN + +WITH THE INLAND TOWNS OF + +TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA + +AND + +THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY + +Illustrated with Maps and Plans + +FOURTH EDITION + +C. B. BLACK + +EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK +1885 + + + + +_Printed by R. & R. Clark, +Edinburgh._ + + + +v + +PREFACE. + +This Guide-book consists of +_Routes_ which follow the course of the main Railways. To adapt +these Routes as far as possible to the requirements of every one the +Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the stations from which +the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to towns distant from +the railway. The description of the places on these branch lines is +printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than that of the towns +on the main lines. + +Each Route has the _Map_ indicated on which it is to be found. +By aid of these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact +situation, and either form new routes for himself, or follow those +given. + +The _Arrangement_ of the Routes is such that they may be taken +either from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the +commencement. The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does +equally well for Marseilles to Paris. + +The _Distance_ of towns from the place of starting to the +terminus is expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side +of the margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route +from each other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either +side from each other. + +In the _Description_ of towns the places of interest have been +taken in the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all +that is necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. +Cabs on such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against +omission, the traveller should underline the names of the places to be +visited before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all +the day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 p.m. All the +vi + +Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on Thursdays. +When not open to the public, admission is generally granted on payment +of a franc. + +In “Table of Contents” the Routes are classified and explained. For +the Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the +Continental Railways, see “Preliminary Information.” + +Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the +Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly +understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it +safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after +sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even +with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial +influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it +prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within +doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the +sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air, +walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with +which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such +exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening. +Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season; +indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the +railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. “I would +strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his +health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go, +to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable +situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in +mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of +climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode +of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in +his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances +requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended +to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others +will demand +vii + +even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due regard to +all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution can be +enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best climate, +a disease of long standing. + +“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so +strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have +witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to +deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of +surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in +which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they +left their own country—the recovery of their health. This appeared +to arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate. + +“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of +living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet, +exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called +‘sight-seeing,’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping +late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate +promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was +counteracted by the operation of these causes.” —_Sir James +Clark on the Sanative Influence of Climate._ + +SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND +MAP ON FLY-LEAF. + +Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay +at some of the baths, such as Vichy +(p. 359), Vals (p. 93), +Mont-Dore (p. 378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p. 283), Bourbon-l’Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p. 358). If at the +eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from +Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp. 212 and 279) to Turin (p. 292). From Turin a short branch +line extends to Torre-Pèllice +(p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian +valleys. + +If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long, +a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p. 290); where, however, on +account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather sharp +and bracing. + +viii + + +From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the +baths is by the valley of the Rhône (map, +p. 27), in which there are many places of great interest, such +as Arles (p. 68), Avignon (p. 58), Orange (p. 51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western +branch by Montbrison (p. 349) +for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For Aix-les-Bains take the eastern +by Ambérieux (p. 281) and +Culoz (p. 282). From Avignon, +Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98), Montélimart (p. 48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p. 46) and Grenoble (p. 324), interesting and +picturesque excursions are made. From Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, +Ardechè (p. 45) is entered. From +Crest diligences run to the towns and villages between it and Aspres +(pp. 47 and 345). From Grenoble the roads and railways +diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the western Alps and to the +mountain passes between France and Italy. + +None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are +travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport. +They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great +use. + +The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English +cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs., +including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of +the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat +breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, ½ fr.; +“café au lait,” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the +hotel and the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most +cases loads and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he +expects a small gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of +bags and trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to +2 frs. each, and although the conductor does not unload the luggage +he expects a gratuity. + +Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a +stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage +should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others +2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “Preliminary +Information.” + +C. B. B. + + + + +ix + +PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. + +THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE +OF THE CHANNEL. + +The six principal ports on the +French side of the English Channel connected by railroad with Paris +are:— + + +Dieppe—distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100 +m.; Rouen, 85 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; +and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins +de Fer de l’Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares—1st class, +25 frs.; 2d cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs. + +London to Paris _via_ Newhaven and Dieppe (240 +miles):—tidal; daily, except Sunday, from Victoria Station and +London Bridge Station. Fare—1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl. +16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60 miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey, +16 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, +Gare St. Lazare, Rue St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent, +M. Marcillet, Rue de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie, +20 Boulevard Saint Denis. + +From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel, +Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance, 105 +miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares—1st +class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15½ frs.; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare +station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest. + +From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale, +Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40 +minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives at +the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through trains +by this line. + + +BOULOGNE—distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.; +Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and +Creil, 32 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du +Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares—1st +class, 31 frs. 25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c. + +London to Paris, _via_, Folkestone and Boulogne (255 +miles):—tidal route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London +Bridge. Express trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and +second class. Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40 +minutes. Fares from London to Paris by Boulogne—1st class, 56s.; +2d cl. 42s. Time for the entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in +Paris apply to the railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. + +x + + +CALAIS—185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158 m.; Montreuil, +134 m.; Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, +41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of +the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½ +hours. Fares—1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c. + +London to Paris, _via_ Dover and Calais (mail route, distance +283 miles);—departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London +Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second +class, express. Fares—60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to +Paris, 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and +examined in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply +at the railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord. + + +CALAIS—204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177 m.; +Hazebrouck, 165 m.; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; +Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. +18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40 minutes. Fares—1st class, 36 +frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d cl. 20 frs. 10 c. + + +DUNKERQUE—190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck, +165 m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119 m.; +Amiens, 81 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives +at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares—1st +class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 28 frs. 15 c. + +England and Channel, _via_ Thames and Dunkirk +(screw):—tidal; three times a week from Fenning’s Wharf. Also from +Leith, in 48 to 54 hours. + + +LE HAVRE—142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138 m.; +Beuzeville Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m.; Yvetot, +111 m.; Rouen, 87 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, +36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe +and Cherbourg, at the station of the Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, No. 124 +Rue St. Lazare. Fares—1st class, 28 frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5 +c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express, 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly +3 hours longer by the ordinary trains. + +London and Channel, _via_ Southampton and Le +Havre:—Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 9 p.m. from Waterloo Station, leaving Southampton +11.45 p.m. Sea journey, 80 m.; +time, 8 hours. + + +CHERBOURG—231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184 m.; Bayeux, 167 +m.; Caen, 149 m.; Mezidon Junction, 134 m.; Lisieux, +119 m.; Serquigny Junction, 93 m.; Evreux, 67 m.; Mantes +Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Time by +express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13 hours. + +FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS. + +On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England, but +the time is more accurately kept. + +To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of +luggage free. + +xi + +Railway Time-Tables. + +Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only +official time-tables are those published by Chaix and Cie, +and sold at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications +there are various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the +“Livret-Chaix Continental,” which, besides the time-tables of the French +railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is furnished with +a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The “Livret-Chaix +Continental” is sold at the station bookstalls. Price 2 frs. + +Next in importance is the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer,” sold at +every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the +time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway +map. + +The great French lines of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest,” of the +“Chemins de Fer d’Orleans,” of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à +la Méditerranée,” of the “Chemins de Fer du Nord,” and of the “Chemins +de Fer de l’Est,” have each time-tables of their own, sold at all their +stations. Price 40 c. Size 18me. With good index. + +For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the “Guide Officiel sur tous +les Chemins de Fer de Belgique.” Sold at the Belgian railway stations. +Size 18me. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of +Belgium. + +For Italy, use “L’Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate +d’Italia.” Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours. +Price 1 fr. + +In Spain use the “Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles,” sold at the +stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres, of +which 8 make 5 miles. _Lleg._ or _Llegada_ means +“arrival”; _Salida_, “departure.” + +In England consult the “Continental Time-tables of the London, +Chatham, and Dover Railway,” sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico, +price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d. + +In the Railway Station. + +Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the +index of the “Livret-Chaix Continental” the place required, to ascertain +the fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with +refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train halts at each +on its way. + +On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people +before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are sold. +Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket, proceed to +the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and deliver your +ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also +“bulletins.” + +After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a +luggage receipt, is handed you from the “guichet” of the luggage office, +where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10 c. or 2 sous. +Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the column +headed “Nombre de Colis,” and see that the exact number of your articles +has been given. The French have a strange way of making the figures +3, 5, +xii + +and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this office; but remember, +when two or more are travelling together, to present the tickets of the +whole party at the luggage department, otherwise the luggage will be +treated as belonging to one person, and thus it will probably be +overweight. Another advantage of having the entire number of the party +on the “Billet de Bagage” is that, in case of one or other losing their +carriage tickets, this will prove the accident to the stationmaster +(chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If, after having purchased a ticket, the +train is missed, that ticket, to be available for the next train, must +be presented again to the ticket office, to be re-stamped (être +visé). + +The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find +it more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case, +having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell the +porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his luggage +ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage again. + +On the Railway. + +In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway +map, and note the junctions; for at many of these—such as Amiens, +Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. etc.—the passengers are frequently +discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await +other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the +names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room, +otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our +railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the direction +required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out, “Voyageurs du +Côté de Lyon!” and we be going to Marseilles from Macon, we may, with +confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the map, we see we +must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway map will be found +very useful, and ought always to be kept in readiness for reference. + +_Buffet_ means “refreshment-room”; and _Salle d’Attente_, +“waiting-room.” + +There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for +ladies. + +Express trains have third class carriages for long distances. + +Railway Omnibuses. + +At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of +omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished by +the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the Private +Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of the town +for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should the omnibus +be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put down at his +destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to the hotel or +hotels whose name or names it bears. + + + + +xiii + + +CONTENTS. + +RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the +SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and the MOUNTAIN +PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY. + +For the whole of the south-east of +France use the time-tables of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à +la Méditerranée.” Sold at all their stations, price 8 sous. In Italy use +the “Indicatore Ufficiale,” 1 fr. or 1 lira, which gives, besides +the time-tables of the railway trains, those also of the steam-trams, +which traverse the country in all directions. + +In England consult the time-tables of the London and South Eastern +Railway, 1d.; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and +Dover Railway, 3d. + + + +page + +PARIS to MENTON by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, +Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles, Toulon, Hyères, Cannes, +Nice and Monaco (see map on fly-leaf) +1 + +For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide this long journey +into two parts—Paris to Marseilles (p. 1), and Marseilles to Menton (p. 122). + +PARIS to MARSEILLES1 + +The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most +interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which +the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good +resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles +should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify +from this great central railway are + +La Roche to Les Laumes by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, +Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach awaits passengers for Vezelay, +containing a grand and vast church. +14 + +xiv + + +From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (p. 14), with its famous wines, passing +through Pontigny (p. 16), where +Thomas à Becket resided. + +Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to +alight at, to visit the source of the Seine. + +From Dijon (p. 20) southwards +to Chagny (p. 24) +are the famous Burgundy vineyards. + +Chagny to Nevers by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot. Autun (p. 24) is one of the most ancient cities +in France. At Creusot (p. 25) are +very large ironworks. + +Macon to Paray-le-Monial by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial (p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said +to have had several interviews with J. C. + +Lyons (p. 29), though a +splendid city, ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an +important railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is +Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles +S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station for the +Grande Chartreuse (p. 323). From +the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½ miles S.W. by St. Etienne (p. 346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail from Lyons along the E. +side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (p. 58) and Arles (p. 68); and on the W. side to Nîmes (p. 101). See map, p. 27. + +Valence to Grenoble, 62 miles N.E. +44 + +Valence to Ardèche +45 + +Crest to Montelimart +46 + +Crest to Dieulefit by Saou and Bourdeaux +46 + +Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux is separated +from Dieulefit by a high mountain. + +Crest to Aspres, 57 miles E. by Die. This route traverses the +whole of the valley of the river Drôme (map, p. 27) +47 + +Montelimart to Grignan, where Madame +Sévigné died +49 + +La Croisière to Nyons, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate of Nyons is mild and +well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From Nyons another +coach goes on to Serres, 41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles +and Grenoble (map, p. 27). + +xv + + +Sorgues to Carpentras, 10½ m. east +54 + +Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a great variety of +places in the neighbourhood, among others Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p. 53). + +Avignon to Nîmes by the famous Roman aqueduct called the +Pont-du-Gard +64 + +Avignon to the Fontaine of Vaucluse, +where Petrarch lived for some time +64 + +Avignon to Manosque by Apt (map, p. 27) +66 + +Avignon to Miramas by Cavaillon +66 + +Tarascon to St. Remy and Les Baux +67 + +Arles to Fontvieille by Mont-Majour. +Arles has magnificent Roman remains +71 + +Arles to Port St. Louis at the mouth +of the Rhône +72 + +Arles to Port-Bouc, across the +Camargue, by the canal steamboat +76 and 72 + +Arles to Aigues-Mortes by St. Gilles +and Lunel +72 + +Lunel to Montpellier +73 + +Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour, which brings water to +Marseilles from the Durance +77 + +Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence. Aix has communication +by rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns +78 + +LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the Rhône (map, p. 27) +81 + +Peyraud by rail to Annonay, and +thence by coach to St. Etienne +81 + +La Voulte to Le Cheilard, the chief diligence centre in the +department of Ardèche (map, p. 46) +83 + +The road to the source of the Loire (map, p. 85) +83 + +Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Béage (map, p. 85) +84 + +Le Béage to Le Puy by Le Monastier +(map, p. 46) +85 + +Le Puy to Langogne by Pradelles (map, p. 46) +88 + +Le Puy to Langeac by St. Georges (map, p. 46) +89 + +xvi + + +Darsac to Chaise-Dieu (map, p. 46) +89 + +Chaise-Dieu to Thiers by Arlanc and +Ambert (map, p. 27) +90 + +Langeac to Monistrol and to Saugues. +Coach from Monistrol station to Le Puy (map, p. 46) +91 + +Le Pouzin to Privas (map, p. 27) +92 + +Teil to Alais, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27) +93 + +This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the +interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood. + +Prades to Langogne by Mayres and +Pradelles (map, p. 27) +94 + +Prades to Montpezat. From Montpezat +the source of the Loire (p. 84) +is visited +95 + +Montpezat to Le Puy +96 + +Ruoms to Vallon and the fine natural +bridge called the Pont d’Arc (map, +p. 27), approached also from Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98) +96 + +Pont d’Avignon, station on W. bank +of the Rhône, for Avignon +99 + +Remoulins to the Pont-du-Gard +99 + +Nîmes To Millau by Vigan (map, p. 27) +105 + +THE RIVIERA. + +The Riviera. Hotels, productions, climate +107 + +Marseilles. Hotels, trams, sights, excursions +111 + +MARSEILLES to MENTON. The French Riviera +122 + +Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little towns, of which the +most important is La Seyne (p. 123). From Toulon omnibuses and +diligences run to the neighbouring villages and to the more distant +towns in the interior. The most start from the Place d’Italie (pp. +124 and 129). + +Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. of the Place Puget (p. 128), to Hyères from the Place +Puget (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place +d’Italie (p. 128), to Le +Pradet from the Place d’Italie (p. 128). + +Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by diligence. As far as +Meounes the road traverses a picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau and +Pierrefeu (p. 130). + +xvii + + +Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (p. 127), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or +(pp. 124, 131). + +The Iles d’Or. Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant +131 + +Toulon to Hyères +132 + +Hyères. Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions, +productions, climate +133 + +Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana +(p. 141); to Bormes and +Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to +St. Tropez (p. 134); whence +steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or coach to Le Luc (p. 144). + +La Pauline. Diligence and train to Hyères +142 + +Carnoules. Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing Brignoles +and Ste. Maximin +142 + +Le Luc. Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure +mountains +144 + +Les Arcs to Draguignan by rail. From Draguignan diligences +start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at +these towns with other diligences +145 + +Cannes to Auribeau, (p. +156), to Cannet, (p. 154), +to Cap d’Antibes (p. 154), to +Castelaras (p. 156), to +Croisette (p. 154), to Croix +des Gardes (p. 155), to +Estérel (p. 155), to Grasse +(p. 160), to the Iles de +Lerins (p. 156), to Mougins +(p. 156), to Napoule and +Theoule (p. 155), to Pégomas +(p. 156), to St. Cassien (p. 155), to Vallauris by the +Golfe de Jouan and Californie (p. 152). + +Grasse to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier +and Castellane (p. 165), Digne +to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (p. 166). + +Nice to St. Martin Lantosque by coach, and thence to Cuneo by +the Col di Finestra +180 + +Nice to Puget-Theniers and Saint Sauveur by coach. From St. +Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to St. +Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (map, p. 165). +182 + +Nice to Cuneo by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda +182 + +Savona to Turin by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and +Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. +183 + +Beaulieu to Port St. Jean and the Lighthouse—a pleasant +walk +185 + +xviii + +Monte Carlo to Nice by the coast-road +189 + +Monaco to La Turbie and the Tête de Chien +191 + +MENTON to GENOA—the western part of the Italian Riviera, +called also the Riviera di Ponente +200 + +Bordighera, up the valley of the +Nervia, to Pigna +201 + +San Remo to Monte Bignone +205 + +GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN—the eastern Italian Riviera, +or the Riviera di Levante +219 + +Avenza to Carrara by rail—a very easy and interesting +excursion +222 + +Pisa to Florence by Pontedera and +Empoli (map, p. 199) +227 + +Pisa to Florence by Lucca, Pistoja +and Prato +227 + +Lucca to the Baths of Lucca +230 + +Florence to Vallombrosa +277 + +Genoa to Turin by +Alessandria—a very interesting railway journey +279 + +END OF THE RIVIERA. + + + +PARIS to TURIN +281 + +PARIS to MODANE +281 + +Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy +286 + +Modane to Turin +291 + +Bussoleno to Susa +291 + +Turin to Torre-Pellice by Pinerolo +305 + +Torre-Pellice to Mont-Dauphin by the +Col de la Croix +306 + +Perosa to Mont-Dauphin by the Col +d’Abriés +307 + +Perosa to Cesanne by the Col de +Sestrières +307 + +Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin by the Col +de la Traversette +308 + +Cuneo to Barcelonnette (_see_ +Barcelonnette to Cuneo) +341 + +TURIN to FLORENCE by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna +309 + +xix + + +St. Pierre d’Albigny to Courmayeur +by the Little Saint Bernard +320 + +PARIS to MODANE by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the +route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys +about the formidable group of the Ecrin mountains +322 + +Grenoble to Sassenage +327 + +Grenoble to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de +Lautaret. A grand mountain road +328 + +Bourg d’Oisans to La Berarde, at the +base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe +329 + +Briançon to Mt. Pelvoux by La Bessée +and the Val Louise +333, +345 + +Briançon to Oulx by Mt. Genèvre and +Cesanne +333 + +Grenoble to Corps by La Mure (map, p. 27). From Corps another diligence +proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From +Corps the pilgrimage is made to N. D. de la Salette +333 + +Goncelin to Allevard-les-Bains +336 + +MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron, +Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (map, p. 27) +338 + +St. Auban to Digne +339 + +Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie +and Seyne (map, p. 304) +339 + +Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, +Colmars and Allos +339 + +VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE station, 51 miles N.E. by +rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of several of the +important passes between France and Italy +340 + +Gap to Barcelonnette +341 + +Barcelonnette to Cuneo (map, p. 27) +341 + +Gap to Grenoble by Corps (map, p. 304) +342 + +Mont-Dauphin to Saluzzo (map, p. 304) +344 + +Paris to Lyons by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27) +346 + +xx + + +Paris to Lyons by Tarare (map, p. 27) +348 + +Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by +Montbrison (map, p. 27) +349 + +Paris to Marseilles by +Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes (see map on +fly-leaf) +351 + +Moulins to the Baths of +Bourbon-l’Archambault by Souvigny and Saint Menoux (map, p. 1) +356 + +Moulins to the Baths of +Bourbon-Lancy by Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is +Paray-le-Monial (p. 27, map p. 1) +357 + +St. Germain-des-Fossés to Vichy +359 + +Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by +Laqueuille +376 + +Laqueuille to the Baths of Mont-Dore and +Bourboule +377 + +Mont-Dore to Issoire by the Baths of +St. Nectaire +385 + +A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station. + + + +xxi + +MAPS AND PLANS. + +Some full-page maps have been moved to avoid breaking up paragraphs. All +links, both here and in the body text, lead to the map itself. + +Map references in the text are inconsistent. The “Rhône and Savoy” +map was printed twice, between pages 26/27 and 106/107. In the List of +Maps it is given as “page 107”; in the text it is randomly cited as +“page 27” and “page 26”. “Map. p. 199” and “p. 200” both refer +to the Italian Riviera map, also cited twice as “p. 220”. The map +of Hyères (p. 129) is twice cited as “p. 177”. + + + +page + +Ardèche, general map of, including the northern part of the +department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire +46 + +This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the +Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, +Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc. + +Arles, a town of great interest +68 + +Avignon, Plan of +59 + +Bologna, Plan of +316 + +Cannes, Environs of +155 + +Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes. + +Cannes, Plan of +149 + +Corniche Road +185 + +Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as +well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice +and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the +railway. + +This map contains also the Environs of Nice, Monaco, and +Menton. + +Dijon, Plan of +20 + +Estérel Mountains, or Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes +146 + +Florence, Plan of +234 + +The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza +Michelangiolo. + +Galleria degli Uffizi +237 + +The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both +sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi +straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace +by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini. + +Genoa, Plan of +214 + +Hyères, Environs of +129 + +As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the +environs of both towns are given on the same map. + +Italian Riviera, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn +199 + +Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The +French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts +on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to +Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.” + +Leghorn, Plan of +226 + +Lyons, General plan of +30 + +xxii + + +Lyons, Partial plan of +33 + +Marseilles, Plan of +113 + +Marseilles to Cannes +123 + +This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and +in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which, +from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side +are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of Hyères,” of which +the largest is Porquerolles. + +Mont Cenis railway, Plan of +291 + +This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane +and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to +Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St. +Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy. + +Mont-Dore and Bourboule, Map of environs +378 + +Nice, Plan of +171 + +Nîmes, interesting Roman ruins +101 + +Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the +S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, +Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to +the N. +1 + +Pisa, Plan of +224 + +The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided +to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo +or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the +cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain +over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station. + +Railway Map +_Fly-leaf_ + +This map shows all the railway routes in France and their correspondence +with the railways in Belgium, Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and +Spain. Also the railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the +Rhône. + +Rhône and Savoy +107 + +This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the +railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes +between France and Savoy. The French Riviera. + +Savona to Rapallo +211 + +Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano, +Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo. + +The Durance to the Var and San Remo +163 + +This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior, +approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. +From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy. + +xxiii + + +The French and Italian Waldensian valleys, with the +mountain-passes between them +304 + +The high volcanic peaks in the department of Ardèche; among +which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire +84 + +The Italian Riviera or north-west Italy, including the +railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence +200 + +The Mouths of the Rhône +66 + +Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this +neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, +Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from +the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see +pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther down the Durance is +the commencement of the Craponne canal (p. 66). + +The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance, in which +are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange, +Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest +56 + +Thermometer, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale +107 + +Toulon, Environs of +129 + +This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small +steamers sailing from the port. + +Troyes, Plan of +12 + +Turin, Plan of +293 + +Vichy, Plan of +359 + + + + + +CARTE DU JOUR. + +The following List contains the +explanation of the technical terms of some of the most useful dishes +mentioned in the “Cartes du Jour” of the restaurants. Fancy names cannot +be translated. + +The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may +require added salt. + + +SOUPS. +_Consommé_, beef-tea. +_Bouillon_, broth. +_Potage_, soup. +_Julienne_, vegetable soups. +_Purée_, pease-soup. + +_Purée_, when qualifying a noun, means “mashed,” as— +_Purée de pommes_, mashed potatoes. + „ „_marron_, mashed +chestnuts. + +BEEF. +_Bœuf au naturel_, or simply “nature,” plain boiled beef. + +_Naturel_ in cookery means “plain.” +_Bœuf à la mode_, beef stewed with carrots. + +Nearly the same as the next. +_Bœuf à la jardinière_, beef with vegetables. +_Aloyau_, a sirloin of beef. +_Aloyau a la jardinière_, sirloin with vegetables. +_Aloyau sauté_, sirloin in slices. + +_Sauté_ in cookery means “sliced.” +_Rosbif aux pommes_, roast beef with potatoes. + +In these lists the words _de terre_ are rarely affixed to +_pommes_. +_Bifteck au naturel_, plain beefsteak. + „ _aux pommes_, with +potatoes. + „ _aux pommes sautées_, with +sliced potatoes. + „ _aux haricots_, with kidney +beans. + „ _bien cuit_, well done. + „ _saignant_, under done. +_Palais de Bœuf au gratin_, broiled ox palate. + +_Au gratin_ in cookery means “baked” or “broiled”; when applied to +potatoes it means “browned.” + +xxiv + + +MUTTON. +_Côtelettes de mouton au naturel_, plain mutton chops. + „ +„ „ _panées_, mutton chops fried with crumbs. + „ „ „ _aux +pointes d’asperge_, mutton chops with asparagus tops. + „ „ „ _à la purée +de pommes_, mutton chops with mashed potatoes. +_Gigot roti_, a roast leg of mutton. +_Pieds de mouton_, sheep’s trotters. +_Gigot d’agneau_, a leg of lamb. +_Blanquette d’agneau_, hashed stewed lamb. +_Rognons à la brochette_, broiled kidneys. + „ _sautés_, sliced +kidneys. +_Etuvé_, stewed. + +VEAL. +_Côtelette de veau_, veal cutlet. +_Tête de veau en vinaigrette_, calf’s head with oil and +vinegar. +_Oreille de veau en marinade_, pickled calf’s ear. +_Ris de veau_, sweetbread. +_Foie de veau_, calf’s liver. +_Blanquette de veau_, hashed stewed veal. +_Fricandeau au jus_, Scotch collops with gravy. +_Jus_, gravy. + +VEGETABLES. +_Pommes de terre_, potatoes. +_Legumes et fruits primeurs_, early vegetables and fruits. +_Asperges à la sauce_, asparagus with sauce. +_Chou_, cabbage. +_Champignons_, mushrooms. +_Epinards_, spinage. +_Fêves de marais_, garden beans. +_Haricots verts_, green kidney beans. +_Oseille_, sorrel. +_Petits pois_, green peas. +_Jardinière_ means “dressed with vegetables.” + +POULTRY AND GAME. +_Poularde_, fowl. +_Poulet_, chicken. +_Chapon_, capon. +_Cuisse de poulet_, leg of a chicken. +_Des œufs à la coque_, boiled eggs. +_Dindonneau_, young turkey. +_Canard_, duck. +_Perdreau_, partridge. +_Mauviettes_, field-larks. +_Alouettes_, larks. +_Grives_, thrushes. +_Becasse_, woodcock. +_Becassine_, snipe. +_Chevreuil_, venison. +_Caille_, quail. + +FISH. +_Anguille_, eel. +_Eperlans_, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings. +_Homard_, lobster. +_Huitres_, oysters. +_Merlans_, whitings. +_Morue_, cod. +_Raie_, skate. +_Saumon_, salmon. +_Sole_, sole. +_Turbot_, turbot. +_Frit_, fried. +_Grillé_, done on the gridiron. + +DESSERT. +_Compote_, applied to fruits, means “stewed.” + „ _de pommes_, stewed +apples. + „ _de pruneaux_, stewed +prunes. +_Beignets de pommes_, apple fritters. + „ „ +„ _soufflés_, puffed apple fritters. +_Mendiants_, raisins, nuts and almonds. + +DRINK. +_Vin de Bordeaux_, claret. +A bottle of soda-water is called a _siphon_. The cheap wines +ought always to be drunk with it, or with common water. +At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying a +little extra. +_Frappé_, applied to liquids, means “iced.” +_Caraffe frappé_, iced water. +_Vin frappé_, iced wine. +The litre of beer is called a _canette_, and the half-litre a +_choppe_. +The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a _carafon_, +a word often used in the cheap restaurants. + + + + +Paris to Marseilles: Itineraries +Paris to Marseilles: Maps +Paris to Marseilles: Text + +General Index + + + +ITINERARY +(pages 1–106) + + +page + +PARIS to MARSEILLES +1 + +The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most +interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which +the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good +resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles +should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify +from this great central railway are + +La Roche to Les Laumes +by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a +coach awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and vast +church. +14 + +From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis +(p. 14), with its famous wines, passing through Pontigny (p. 16), where Thomas à Becket +resided. + +Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to alight at, +to visit the source of the Seine. + +From Dijon (p. 20) southwards to Chagny (p. 24) are the famous Burgundy vineyards. + +Chagny to Nevers by Autun, Montchanin and +Creusot. Autun (p. 24) is one of the most +ancient cities in France. At Creusot +(p. 25) are very large ironworks. + +Macon to Paray-le-Monial by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial +(p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had several +interviews with J. C. + +Lyons (p. 29), though a splendid city, +ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important railway +junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles +S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station +for the Grande Chartreuse +(p. 323). From the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½ +miles S.W. by St. Etienne +(p. 346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail +from Lyons along the E. side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (p. 58) and Arles +(p. 68); and on the W. side to Nîmes +(p. 101). See map, p. 27. + +Valence to +Grenoble, 62 miles N.E. +44 + +Valence to +Ardèche +45 + +Crest to +Montelimart +46 + +Crest to Dieulefit by Saou and +Bourdeaux +46 + +Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. +Bourdeaux is separated from Dieulefit by a high +mountain. + +Crest to Aspres, 57 miles E. +by Die. This route traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme +(map, p. 27) +47 + +Montelimart to +Grignan, where Madame Sévigné died +49 + +La Croisière to Nyons, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate of Nyons +is mild and well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From +Nyons another coach goes on to Serres, +41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble +(map, p. 27). + +Sorgues to Carpentras, 10½ m. east +54 + +Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for +visiting a great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among others +Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p. 53). + +Avignon to Nîmes by the +famous Roman aqueduct called the Pont-du-Gard +64 + +Avignon to +the Fontaine of Vaucluse, where Petrarch lived for some time +64 + +Avignon to +Manosque by Apt (map, p. 27) +66 + +Avignon +to Miramas by Cavaillon +66 + +Tarascon to +St. Remy and Les +Baux +67 + +Arles to +Fontvieille by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent Roman +remains +71 + +Arles +to Port St. Louis at the mouth of the Rhône +72 + +Arles to +Port-Bouc, across the Camargue, by the canal steamboat +76 and 72 + +Arles to Aigues-Mortes by St. +Gilles and Lunel +72 + +Lunel to Montpellier +73 + +Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour, +which brings water to Marseilles from the Durance +77 + +Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence. Aix has communication by +rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns +78 + +LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of +the Rhône (map, p. 27) +81 + +Peyraud by +rail to Annonay, and thence by coach to +St. Etienne [pg. 354] +81 + +La Voulte to Le Cheilard, the chief diligence centre in the +department of Ardèche (map, p. 46) +83 + +The road to the source of the +Loire (map, p. 85) +83 + +Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Béage (map, p. 85) +84 + +Le Béage to +Le Puy by Le Monastier (map, +p. 46) +85 + +Le Puy to +Langogne by Pradelles (map, +p. 46) +88 + +Le Puy to +Langeac by St. Georges (map, +p. 46) +89 + +Darsac to Chaise-Dieu (map, p. +46) +89 + +Chaise-Dieu to Thiers by Arlanc and Ambert (map, p. 27) +90 + +Langeac to Monistrol and to Saugues. Coach +from Monistrol station to Le Puy (map, p. 46) +91 + +Le Pouzin to +Privas (map, p. 27) +92 + +Teil to Alais, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27) +93 + +This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the +interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood. + +Prades to +Langogne by Mayres and Pradelles (map, +p. 27) +94 + +Prades to +Montpezat. From Montpezat the source of the Loire (p. 84) is visited +95 + +Montpezat +to Le Puy +96 + +Ruoms to Vallon and the fine natural bridge +called the Pont d’Arc (map, p. 27), approached also from Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98) +96 + +Pont +d’Avignon, station on W. bank of the Rhône, for Avignon +99 + +Remoulins to the +Pont-du-Gard +99 + +Nîmes To +Millau by Vigan (map, p. 27) +105 + + + + +MAPS AND PLANS +(pages 1–106) + + +page + +Ardèche, general map of, including the northern part of the +department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire +46 + +This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the +Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, +Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc. + +Arles, a town of great interest +68 + +Avignon, Plan of +59 + +Dijon, Plan of +20 + +Lyons, General plan of +30 + +Lyons, Partial plan of +33 + +Nîmes, interesting Roman ruins +101 + +Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the +S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, +Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to +the N. +1 + +Rhône and Savoy +107 + +This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the +railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes +between France and Savoy. The French Riviera. + +Map appears on page 27 in this section. + +The high volcanic peaks in the department of Ardèche; among +which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire +84 + +The Mouths of the Rhône +66 + +Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this +neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, +Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from +the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see +pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther down the Durance is +the commencement of the Craponne canal (p. 66). + +The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance, in which +are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange, +Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest +56 + +Troyes, Plan of +12 + + + + +PARIS to VICHY, MACON, BOURG, GENEVA &c. + +see caption + + +1 + + +THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA. + + + +Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyères, Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Menton, 692 +miles. + + + +PART I.—PARIS TO MARSEILLES. + +By Sens, Dijon, Lyons, and Avignon, +537 miles. + +Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For “London +to Marseilles,” see under that head in the “Continental Time-tables of +the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway.” Through tickets sold at their +London office. + + + +MARSEILLES +537 +PARIS. Start from the station +of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon, No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where +purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or 40 cents, the only absolutely +trustworthy tables respecting the prices, distances, and movements of +the trains. Good restaurant at station. Opposite the station is the +H. de l’Univers, and a little farther off the H. Jules +César. + +_Maps._—For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the details as far as +Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the +journey, map page 26. The fare, third class, from +London to Paris by Dieppe, by the London, Brighton, and South Coast +Railway, is 17s. From Paris to Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons +Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours; starting from the station of the +Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 a.m., +and arriving next day at 5.33 a.m. +From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35 a.m. for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 a.m. From Toulon a train starts for Hyères at 9.32 +a.m., and arrives at 10.13 a.m. The third-class carriages between Paris and +2 + +Marseilles are provided with separate compartments for ladies, and with +warming-pans. For those going to Hyères, the nearest of the +winter-stations, it is better, if possible, not to break the journey, +but to take a through ticket from Paris to Hyères (£2:12s.), as every +break adds considerably to the expense; moreover, the train passes the +most suitable resting-places at a most inconvenient hour in the night. +By the first class the whole journey from Paris to Hyères can be done in +18¼ hours for £4:13:6. + +The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the +Bois de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, +which here joins the Seine. Charenton, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a +large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. St. Maurice, pop. 4300, has +in the Château d’Alfort a veterinary college with an hospital for +animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It contains a library, +museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for the cultivation of +grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the Maisons-Alfort, pop. +8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and Robespierre resided here some +time. + +Villeneuve St. George. Melun. + +9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St. +George, pop. 1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères, +a deep river flowing through a verdant valley. 3¼ m. farther +is Montgeron on the +Yères, pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor +of Henri IV. +On the other side of the river is the village of Crosne; where on +the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas +Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and the +first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and his +contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English +literature. + +13¾ m. from Paris is Brunoy, +pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was inhabited by the earliest kings of +France. Louis XVIII. created the Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. +The train now traverses the Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches +104½ ft. high. 28 m. S. from Paris is the prettily situated town of +MELUN, pop. 12,000. +_Inns:_ Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near +St. Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante. +Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine, +and the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which +here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names +of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St. +Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway +station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on the +left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is the +church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied tower +over each transept, 10th cent. The large building +3 + +behind the church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the +Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the +main street, in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. +Aspais, an elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed +gabled chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed +square tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short +spire. In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8 +windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is +the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in +the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in 1514, +“Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16me +siècle.” Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of +ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome +fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry +St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre, +the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the +north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent +pears—some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the +Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. +From Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi, +where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau. + +Fontainebleau. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +37 +500 +FONTAINEBLEAU +pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from the station; +but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 c. For the Cour +du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most expensive hotels front +the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et Angleterre; Ville de Lyon; +Aigle Noir; Lion d’Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, +is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, near the Cour des +Offices or east end of the Chateau, is the H. de la Chancellerie. +In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirène. The last 4 hotels are +the most moderate in their charges. Situated among the large hotels +facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; 1st storey, 13 +frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come for one day, the best plan +is to enter at the station any of the Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the +end of the Rue Grande, where there is a square with a garden surrounded +with good shops—a bookseller’s with maps, plans, and +photographs—souvenirs made from wood of the forest; a good +confectioner’s shop and some restaurants, where refreshments can be had +either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid of losing the +train, should, however, rather take their refreshments at some of the +restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the Rue Grande, the +Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes’ walk. + +Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held. + +_Coach Tariff._—The principal cab-stand is at the end of the +Rue Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the +forest in the shop opposite. + +A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the +4 + +day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10 +frs. for the day. + +Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following +prices:— + +A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for +the first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour. + +A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first hour +3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c. + +A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an +hour. + +Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day. + +Fontainebleau deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but +to enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which +cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads +and footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by +congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each +bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres. +The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of +the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux,” or “du Cheval +Blanc,” which court forms the _main entrance_. A small fee is +expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not +obligatory. + +To see the “appartements reservés” an especial order is requisite, +procured by letter addressed to “M. Le Commandant des Chateaux.” The +“appartements reservés” comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes a +smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the household, +but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in showing the +Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give will be found in +the main correct. It is sometimes reversed. + +The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by +Francis I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former +edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists. Henri +IV., who spent £100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the buildings and +gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of Diana and the +gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. expended £250,000 upon it, and Louis +XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large sums. + +Fontainebleau: Entrance. Chapelle de la Trinité. + +The principal entrance is at the west +end by the Cour du CHEVAL BLANC, the largest of all the courts, +measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is also called the Cour des Adieux, because +here Napoleon I., forsaken by nearly all his generals, took leave, +on the 20th of April 1814, of the ever-faithful soldiers of his Old +Guard, from whom he tore himself away amidst sobs and tears, and threw +himself into his carriage. On the 19th of March 1815 he was back again +in this palace from the island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine +joy through the splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and +his wretchedness. + +As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the +following abridged list should be read before entering. + +The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which has +46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars in +the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place +entered is the Chapelle de la Trinité, built by +Francis I. in 1529, and largely +5 + +decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish ambassador having +remarked that “the palace would be more beautiful if the Almighty were +as well housed as his majesty.” Louis XI. was married in this chapel. +The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was pronounced in it; and +here, in 1810, Napoleon III. was baptized. The paintings are by +Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and Marie de Médicis and +Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the reign of Louis XIII. by +Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The statues on each side of the +altar, representing Charlemagne and St. Louis, are by G. Pilon. The +magnificent angels, which support the escutcheons of France and Navarre, +are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze angels are by G. Pilon. + +Fontainebleau: Apartments of Napoleon. + +Ascend staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first +room is the Antichambre des Huissiers (ushers), painting by +Brenet, 1785. Cabinet des Secretaires, paintings by Vanloo, +Doyen, and Hallé. Pass now through a small passage, painted with flowers +by Spraendonck, to the most charming Salle des Bains. The walls +are of plate glass, on which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely +colours, cupids, birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the +Abdication Room, containing the famous mahogany table, about a +yard in diameter, on which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April +1814. Walls hung with rich embroidered satin from Lyons. Cabinet de +Travail (study) of the Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob. +Painting on ceiling represents law and justice. Bedroom of +Napoleon I. and III. Bed restored under Louis Philippe, and hung +with silk velvet from Lyons. Round the wall grisaille paintings of +cupids, admirable imitations of relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from +Pio VII. to Napoleon. Salon de Famille or Salle du Conseil; dates +from François I. and Henri IV., and made by Louis XV. his +study. In centre of room mahogany table, 6 yards in circumference, one +piece. The 20 red and blue symbolical paintings round wall are by the +two Vanloos. On ceiling arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered +with Beauvais tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV. +Throne-room. Built by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV., +to which Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of +France used to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently +gilt and painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of +Louis XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000. + +Fontainebleau: Apartments of Marie Antoinette. + +APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and +of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of +the panels on green ground. On console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases +presented to Napoleon I by the Emp. of Austria. This room was +fitted up for Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI., who forged, but did not +finish, the window bolts (espagnolettes). The Bedroom. Occupied +successively by Marie de Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, +Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The +gorgeous drapery and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie +Antoinette by the city of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage. +6 + +Wall hung with the richest satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by +Riésener. Clock of Louis XVI. Salon de Musique. Ceiling, Minerva +and the Muses by Barthélemy, 1786. Over door the Muses painted in +grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon, +from which a door opens into the + +GALERIE DE DIANE or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling, +divided into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing +mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the +sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated on +the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second +daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the room +immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, in +parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then fell on +his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by Christina, +and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the murderers +thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut off the crown +of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made him fall to the +ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour. Throughout all +this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud with all his +might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he was buried, +near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E. from the +chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen Christina’s +chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her secrets. The +Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore the Queen to +spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and beseeched her, in +the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the unhappy man, she +replied with petulance, “that she could not, and that many had been +condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as this +coward.” + +At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with +indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the +goddess Diana. + +We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes by +C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes, +1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses, not +shown (see page 8). The other leads into + +Fontainebleau: Salons de Francois I., Louis XIII., St. Louis. Salon Des +Gardes. + +LES +GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in +gilt compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des +Tapisseries hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves +of Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress +Eugenie. Salon de François I. Napoleon I. and Charles +X. used it as their dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. +The Flemish tapestry represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of +chimney-piece fresco by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets +are of the 15 and 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable +Beauvais tapestry. Salon de Louis XIII. The small Venetian +looking-glass, one of the earliest manufactured, and the first that came +to France, indicates the place where the bed of Marie de +7 + +Médicis stood when Louis XIII. was born. The paintings on the ceiling +and on the walls represent the story of Theagenes and Charicles, which +had been translated from the Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to +Francis I. Beautiful marble chimney-piece. Salle de Saint +Louis. Over chimney-piece equestrian statue in relief of Henri IV. +by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp. Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of +Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777. Salle des Gardes, principally +by Charles IX., but restored by Louis Philippe. In the medallions above +the five real and mock doors are portraits of Francis I., with the +allegorical figures of Might and the Fine Arts; Henri II., with +figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine Bourbon (father of Henri +IV.), with +figures of Hope and Abundance; Henri IV., with figures of Peace and +Glory; and Louis XIII., with figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful +chimney-piece by Jacquet, 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust +of Henri IV., and at each side statues of Might and Peace by +Francarville. A very pretty little room, with floor of inlaid wood, +corresponding in design with the ceiling, leads to the + +ESCALIER DU ROI. The top part of this staircase, built by Louis +XV., was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d’Etampes. The frescoes, +representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo +dell’ Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol. + +GALERIE DE HENRI II., or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent +hall in the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted +on one side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other +by the same number looking to the gardens. It was built by +François I., and decorated by Henri II. for his favourite +Diane de Poitiers. The walls are covered with frescoes between gilt +coupled columns by Primaticcio, Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by +Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut, is divided into 27 compartments, +elaborately ornamented with scrolls, mouldings, and friezes, all richly +gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of Henri II. and of Diana. The +chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered with fleurs-de-lis, is by +Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one of the entrances into the +chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed (see page 8). We return +now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter the + +GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I., parallel to the apartments of Napoleon, +210 ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a +communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis. +Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect. The +frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso, but a +few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François I. +From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the + +APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES et du Pape Pie VII. They were +inhabited by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis +XIV.), whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also +by Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of +Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by +Napoleon III. for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were +expected to have visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest +8 + +quality from the Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel, +Mignard, and other French masters. Antechamber. Portrait of Diana +de Poitiers as the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio’s best +works. Cabinet (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed +leather. Furniture covered with Cordova leather. Salles des +Officers. Hung with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of +Esther. Salon. Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins. +Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into +compartments bearing the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII. +The Old Bedroom (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis +XIII. Table in mosaic given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very +beautiful ceiling by Cotelle de Meaux. Study of Pio +VII.—portrait of him by David. Dressing-room—wardrobe of +inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest in France. Bust of Louis XV. +by Lemoyne, 1751. New Bedroom—bedstead of time of Louis +XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. Salon de +Reception—Gobelins tapestry—furniture of time of Louis +XV. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. Waiting-room or Salle d’Attente. +Gobelins dating from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI. +Antechamber. 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood. +Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques. + +GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this +gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise +Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and +some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the +walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and +incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery leading +to the + +SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theatre, built by Napoleon III., and +seated for 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of +Charles VIII., adorned with a statue of him in stucco. + + +Fontainebleau: Chapelle de St. Saturnin. + +LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES. + +Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin, +built by Louis VII. after his return from Palestine, and consecrated by +Thomas à Becket in 1169. The painted glass of the windows was +manufactured at Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie, 1836, +daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar is the same at which Pope Pius +VII. performed mass during his stay at Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. +The lower chapel was reconstructed in 1545 by Francis I., upon +which he built the Upper Chapel. It was ornamented with charming +frescoes, in the reign of Henri IV., about the year 1608. +Napoleon III. commenced the restoration. + +Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à +Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same +dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the +right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I. + +Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the Galerie de +Diane, ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently +executed. It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see p. 6). + +Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round +9 + +with pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by +J. B. Oudry. + +Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber, +saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than +that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the +revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such cruelties. +The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble pupils of St. +Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see p. 7). + +The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection +of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial permission. + +THE +COURTS. + +From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe +staircase, leads through to the Cour de la Fontaine. In the side +facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. Having passed through +the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have before +us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to the left +the Porte Dorée, one of the gates that opens into the Cour +Ovale. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes +on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The subjects +are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539. And +by this portal the Duchesse d’Etampes fled from Fontainebleau, driven +from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left we pass +the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow buttresses, +faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the Porte Dorée is +the device of Francis I., a salamander. The principal entrance +to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices. + +At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d’Armes, connected +with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de Henri +IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the artillery +college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The gateway is +grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing particular. + +Fontainebleau: Drives in the Forest. + +Excursions into the forest. Those +wishing to walk should provide themselves with a pocket compass and a +copy of the plan of the Forêt de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the +posts painted red indicate the way back to the town; the black posts +lead in the other direction. The coachmen are acquainted with all the +roads. The artistic part of the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The +following are the three principal drives, each requiring 6 +hours:— + +1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie—Point de vue du camp de +Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle +Vue—Barbison par le Bas Bréau—Gorges d’Apremont et +Franchard. + +2. Vallée du Nid de l’Aigle—Mont Ussy—Caverne +d’Augas—Vue sur le champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet—Gorges +et Rochers de la Solle—Rocher St. Germain—Bocages des +Ecouettes—Fort l’Empereur—Calvaire—Roche Eponge et +Point de vue de Nemorosa. + +3. Rocher Bouligny—Rocher des Demoiselles—Gorge aux Loups +10 + +et Mare aux Fées—Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix +du Gd. Maitre. + +The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole +forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N.W. from +Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½ m. W. The second +contains the best places for obtaining good general views of the forest, +such as from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but +especially from the Fort de l’Empereur, about 2½ m. N. The +Gorge aux Loups in the 3d drive, 3½ m. S., leads to a very +picturesque part called the Long Rocher. If only one drive can be taken, +take the first, 3¼ m. by rail from Fontainebleau. + +After Fontainebleau is Thomery. _Inn_: Popardin, where the famous +grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls and +trellis-work. + +Moret. Jean Sans Peur. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +42 +495 +MORET, pop. 2000. _Inn_: +Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, with remains of +fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates Paris and +Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is principally +of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th. 7½ m. +farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of the +Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system. + +Montereau-faut-Yonne, pop. 7000; station about a +mile from the town. _Inn_: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops, +near the post office. Those who may require to wait for a train at this +junction, should, if time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town +and visit the parish church, with its handsome columns gracefully +ramifying into the groining of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the +right of the high altar is the sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church a fine stone +bridge, or rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne, +which here unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian +statue of Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble +slab indicates the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On +the steep hill overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of +Surville. Montereau has important potteries. + +Sens. Thomas À Becket. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +71 +466 +SENS on the Yonne, pop. 12,400. +_Inns_: Paris; Écu. The best street, the Rue Royale, extends from +north to south. At the north end is the promenade, and going southwards +up the street, we have first the statue of the chemist Thénard, and then +the cathedral. At the end of the street is the arch erected in honour of +the Duchess of Angoulême, when she visited this city in 1828. Behind are +spacious boulevards, which, together with the promenade, form agreeable +walks. + +11 + + +The Cathedral of St. Etienne was commenced in 972, but nearly +rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without beauty, +is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a belfry +attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating with +massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed +arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered +colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured +canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a beautiful +relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien, first bishop +of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining chapel is the +mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by G. Coustou, and +statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the next or 3d chapel, +Becket used to officiate. +The picture on the wall by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination. +He stayed, 1166, in the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the +cathedral. It is now occupied by the Sœurs de l’Enfance de Jesus. The +transepts are lighted by superb glass; but the best window is the second +to the right on entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean +Cousin. In a glass case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, +stole, and maniple worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old +house adjoining the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient +evidence to prove that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory +crucifix by Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th +century, and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is +valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St. Vincent +de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon. Adjoining +the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored by Violet le +Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. from the church, and +to the left of the high road. The only portion of the present buildings +that existed in Becket’s time is the piece parallel to the Abbey Church. +When in France, he lived chiefly in the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, +7 m. S. from St. Florentin, page 16, +and 13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, page 14. +Becket was assassinated at the foot of the altar of St. Benedict +in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and canonised two years afterwards. +Down to the Reformation pilgrimages were made to his shrine by devotees +from every corner of Christendom. Every 50th year a jubilee was +celebrated in his honour. + +Troyes. + + +12 +plan of Troyes + + +41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l’Etat is TROYES, pop. 39,000. _Hotels_: At the +station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal street, the Rue Notre Dame, +the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel +des Couriers. + +Troyes: Cathedral. + +Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine, +canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the +machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen, which +produce an annual average value of about two million pounds sterling. +Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches, of which the +most important is the Cathedral of St. Pierre et St. Paul, +situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station being on +the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most beautiful +12 + +in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished till the +end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of these +intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th +century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th. Three +hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower rising +above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and the +transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the nave, +separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the front row +being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty clerestory, +both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The height of the +roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The glass of the +windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and over the +western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The marble +statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of choir, are of +the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in wood, of the 17th +cent. +Troyes: Henry V. +Salle Simard. +Before the high altar in this church Henry V. of England was affianced to the +Princess Catherine, daughter of Charles VI. of France, on the 20th +May 1420. Next day the famous treaty was signed, which secured the crown +of France to Henry by the exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the +poor mad Charles VI. should cease to live. Behind the high altar in +the Lady chapel is a Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the +oldest glass in the church. A stair to the right of the high altar +leads to the treasury, of no great interest. It contains croziers of the +13th century, reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of +the 12th century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In +the reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate, +St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few +yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the +_Library_, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS., +in a large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled +panes. Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St. +Paul’s Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the +Museum, or picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel, +Mignard, etc.; and the _Salle +Simard_, containing a valuable collection of the Models made +by Simard for his statues and works in relief. Also some statuary by +Girardon, and other French sculptors. The museum is open to the public +on Sundays and feast-days from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is +expected. A short distance eastward from the cathedral is the +Hospice, and a little beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the +window of the sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the +16th century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic +architecture, the church of St. Urbain, built by that Pope +towards the end of the 13th century. The high altar occupies the place +where his father used to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was +that of a cobbler. A short way N. is St. Remi, 14th century, +with a bronze crucifix over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St. +Urbain, by the Rue de l’Hotel de Ville, is the _Hotel de Ville_, +built according to the plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished +in +13 + +1670. Beyond is St. Jean, 14th century. The high altar was +sculptured by Girardon, while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord, +forming the reredos of the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel +“O Sacrum Convivium,” are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean, +pass up northwards by the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the +first division is the Post Office; and at the end of the next division +is La Madeleine, commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable +for its magnificent jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in +1508. The beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period. +The nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic +architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West from +St. Jean is St. Nicolas, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To +the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary +containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a statue +of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the dead. + +Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on +entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are +beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel +of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups. The +glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on consoles +give the church the appearance of a statue gallery. + +South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its +continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St. +Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of +the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village and +church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west portal, +constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and ornamented by +Gentil. + +Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we +have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for +two, 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff. + +Troy Weight. + +The weight known by the name of the Troy weight was brought from Cairo during the time of +the crusades, and first adopted in this city. Troyes was the +headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in 1814. + +Villeneuve-sur-Yonne. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +79 +458 +VILLENEUVE-sur-yonne, pop. 5100. _Hotel_: +Dauphin. In the old castle here of Pulteau the man “au masque de Fer” +spent some days while on his way to the Bastile (p. 158). Villeneuve is joined to +its suburb, Saint Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5 m. beyond, or +84 m. from Paris, is St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. _Hotel_: +Des Bons Enfants. A poor town, nearly a mile from the station, but +possessing a fine church, of which the greater part of the choir, as +well as the S. and N. porches, belong to the 13th cent., and the +remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th cents. Overlooking the town, +and distinctly seen from the station, is a ruined chapel belonging to +the 13th cent. + +14 + + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +91 +446 +JOIGNY, pop. 7000. A good +resting-place. _Hotels_: The Poste, between the station and the +bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right bank of the Yonne, +which is the principal promenade. The most important part of the town +occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which are situated St. +André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.; and St. +Thibault, 15th cent. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +96 +441 +LA ROCHE, on the Canal +de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançon and the Yonne. Large +refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les Laumes, 79½ m. +southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Vezelay, Avallon, +and Semur. (See map on p. 1.) + + +Auxerre. + +LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES. + + +12½ m. S. from La Roche is Auxerre, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the hill +rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the most +prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain, to the +left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or Clock +Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, St. Etienne, was +rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over the +western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are +crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and +of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and the +vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet high. +The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S. +transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery. +Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in the +13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of St. +Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in the +17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated tower, +173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the 16th and +finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic. + +Near the Hôtel de l’Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the 12th +cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the +capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around +the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk is +a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and +Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16.) + +13 miles east from Auxerre is Chablis, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d’Or, on the Serein. +The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the well-known white +wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur, Vauxdésir, +Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality of the +vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty +flavour. + +Cravant, pop. 1000, +_Inn_: Hôtel de l’Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly a mile from the +station, owing its importance to its position at +15 + +the junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles S., with the line to Les Laumes, 56 +miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and 116 miles +from Paris by La Roche. (See map, page 1.) + +Sermizelles. Vezelay. + +37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from Les +Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles +distant), for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the +station there is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a +private vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont +Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pêre; then +back to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354. + +Vezelay, pop. 1300. +_Inn:_ Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed town on the top of +a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in France, +the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le Duc. The narthex +belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the 11th, and the +choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of the building is +404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior is unadorned, and +supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The doors and tympanum of +the western entrance are enclosed by a wide expanding circular arch with +four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large window with boldly sculptured +mullions. Within the doorway is a spacious narthex, of which the +triforium is filled with antiquities connected with the monastery which +adjoined the church. To appreciate the noble proportions, simplicity, +and harmony of this vast edifice it is necessary to have the door +between this narthex and the nave opened. The nave and aisles are +lighted by forty small round-headed windows, and their roofs rest on +forty semicircular arches springing from massive piers, with attached +columns ornamented with the peculiar capitals of their period. +A triforium runs round the transept and choir. Eleven circular +columns, of one stone each, support the arches which enclose the +sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door opens into what was +formerly the “salle capitulaire,” built in the 12th cent. The cloister +is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who also constructed the altar in +the beautiful crypt below the choir. Near the abbey church is St. +Martin’s, 12th cent., and St. Etienne, now used as a storehouse. The +Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as parts of the fortifications, +still remain. +Becket. +Thomas à Becket celebrated mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166; +when also, with the awful forms provided by the Roman ritual, he +pronounced sentence of excommunication against John of Oxford and +others, and would have included Henri II. himself, had he not been +informed that the King at that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in +1190, the crusaders under Richard Cœur-de-Lion joined those under +Philippe-Auguste to set out on the third crusade. Vezelay is the +birthplace of Theodore Beza (June 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the +Reformed Church. In his arms Calvin expired. + +1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of +the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. from +St. Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban. + +16 + + +9½ m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is Avallon, pop. 6000, on the Cousin. _Hotels:_ +Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St. Lazare, 12th cent., is a +beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of Burgundian architecture. +Coach awaits passengers at the station for Saulieu, 17 miles distant, +pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An interesting town with a church, St. +Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards of Avallon produce good wine. The best +keeps well in bottle from fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from +Avallon is the Forêt de Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent +down the Yonne and Seine in rafts. + +Semur. + +After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and +then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is Semur, pop. 4150. _Hotels:_ Côte +d’Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the Armançon, about a mile +from the station. The parish church of Notre Dame was founded in 1065 by +Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in the 13th cent., and +repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a sculptured porch. The +windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass; the subjects are +portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In this part is a +beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet high. At each +transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant walks around and +about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the ramparts still remain. +12½ miles N.E. this branch line joins the main line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and +map page 1.) + +Saint Florentin. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +107½ +429½ +SAINT FLORENTIN, +pop. 3000. _Inns:_ At station, H. de la Gare. In town, +H. Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach +starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of +Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road +separates from the Chablis road. + +Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station. +The parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The +windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces. +The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes +standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful +rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a +relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection +of Jesus Christ. + +At Pontigny there is +a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi, but pilgrims to the +shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the abbey buildings. From +Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre, 13 m. S.W., +stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of the church of +Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with narthex and +round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand and +imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72 ft. +17 + +wide, and 72 high, and is upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty +massive piers. There are 11 chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. +A row of small round-headed windows extends round the church below +the arches, and another, exactly similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th +cent., behind the high altar are the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of +Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a village in the neighbourhood. The +original shrine, a plain wooden coffin, is upstairs in the +cloister. The view of the interior of the building is spoilt by an ugly +screen, rendered necessary to shut off the sanctuary from the rest of +the church to make it more comfortable for the villagers, whose parish +church it has now become. The abbey buildings, of which parts still +remain in good condition, were inhabited by Becket. In the treasury is +the black strip of a stole he used to wear, sewed on to another stole. +Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious deeds connected with him and +others, who had retired to this, then an austere Cistercian monastery. +The walls of the cloister are hung with engravings representing scenes +in the life of St. Edmund. + +Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and +remained till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from +Vezelay to Sens. + +Tonnerre. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +123 +414 +TONNERRE, pop. 6000, on +the Armançon. _Inns:_ Lion d’Or; Courriers—both near each +other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion d’Or, leads past +the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the cemetery, and to the +church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right above the town. At the +foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, enclosed in a circular +basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse Dionne; but it is in a +dirty part of the town, and used by the washerwomen. A straight +street to the right of the Lion d’Or leads down to the hospital, built +in 1834, the original part of which, built by Marguerite de Bourgogne in +1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her remains repose under a +beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar (died September 4, 1308). +To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis de Louvois (died 1691). The +arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some excellent wine. + +Tanlay. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +127½ +409½ +TANLAY, pop. 1000, on the +Armançon. A small village with a handsome castle in an extensive +park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de Montmorenci, in 1520, +but by far the largest portion by a brother of Admiral Coligny, in 1559. +The vast façade is flanked by two wings. The principal court is 79 feet +by 36. In a +18 + +room in the second story of the Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the +Protestant party used to meet under the presidency of Admiral Coligny. +A fresco on the ceiling represents, under the disguise of the gods +of Olympus, the persons who took the most prominent part in the +political and religious events of that period. Catherine de Médicis is +portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the Condé as Mars. Round +the room are a series of curiously-constructed recesses, communicating +with each other in the walls. The largest of the splendid chimney-pieces +is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds are the ruins of the +abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier, both of the 13th cent. +At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel, pop. 1000, time 1 hour +45 minutes, among forests, and famous for truffles. + +Ancy-le-Franc. Montbard. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +136 +401 +ANCY-LE-FRANC, +pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545, and built +according to the plans of Primaticcio. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +142 +395 +NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES, pop. 700. +Important junction with the Paris and Bâle line, by Troyes (see page 11), by a branch extending 72 miles north-east to +Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits. In the +environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle of Rochefort, +17th and 18th cents. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +151 +386 +MONTBARD, pop. 3000, on +the Canal de Bourgogne. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la Poste. Buffon, the celebrated naturalist, was born +in this small village on the 7th of September 1707. His château, +a plain large house, is entered from the extremity of the main +street farthest from the station. The grounds are extensive, and laid +out in terraces. On the western front of the terrace is the small square +house, with three windows and one door, into which he retired at five in +the morning to pursue his studies. In another building he kept his +manuscripts. In the grounds of the château, on the walk below the +dungeon tower of the castle of the Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small +column erected to his memory by his son, who fell a victim to the +tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days before the downfall of that +monster. Situated on a terrace at the entrance of the grounds is the +parish church, containing the tomb of Buffon. A black stone slab +over the door bears the following inscription:— + +Buffon +A été inhumé dans le +Caveau de cette chapelle +Le 20 Avril 1788. + +19 + + +There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is +the abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +160 +377 +LES LAUMES. +_Inn:_ H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount Auxois, +1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile from the +station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900. +_Inn:_ H. du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, b.c. 50, defeated the Gauls under Vercingetorix, +whose statue by Millet, pedestal by V. le Duc, stands just above +the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has some curious +sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of September. Four miles +from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in a beautiful park of 84 +acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of the abbey of +Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable collection of +portraits of historical personages by eminent artists. (See +page 14.) + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +165 +372 +DARCEY, pop. 850, 2 miles +from its station, at the foot of steep mountains 1315 ft. high. +_Inn:_ Hôtel Guyot. Near the village are curious caves, and a +subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus at station for +Flavigny, 1½ mile distant, +pop. 1300, on a hill 1390 ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old +walls. Church 13th cent., with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th, +14th, and 15th cents. Convent of the Ursulines, with splendid view. + +Source of the Seine. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +171¼ +365¾ +VERREY, pop. 900. +_Inns:_ Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the Source of +the Seine, 6¼ miles S. by the path over the hill through the woods, +but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the village +of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards Bligny-le-Sec, +pop. 700, 5 miles from Verrey, and after passing the farmhouse +Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left and follow +the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte d’Or) stone, +where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first the farmhouse +Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine (1545 feet above +the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a little garden +enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house beyond. The tiny +infant stream issues forth under the protection of a recumbent statue of +the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or guide 5 frs. +It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please can go back by +the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 miles south, pop. +1000. _Inns:_ Mack; Soleil d’Or. With a 14th cent, church. +A diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St. +Seine is Blaizy-Bas, 7½ m. distant. + +20 + + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +179 +358 +BLAIZY-BAS, situated +at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces through the basin of the +Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet long, and 1330 feet above +the sea. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +190 +347 +VELARS, pop. 1400. After the +preceding station of Malain, and before reaching the next station, +Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some bold railway engineering. The +viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers of arches and is 492 feet +long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long. From Velars commences the +branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles from Nevers. (For Autun, see +page 24.) + + +Dijon +DIJON + +opp. 20 +see caption + + +The principal street is the Rue +Guillaume. To the left is the Castle built by Louis XI., now the +Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the Place and Statue of St. Bernard. +No. 2 is the Préfecture. That large building at the foot of the Rue +Condé, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, +containing the Hôtel de Ville, the Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3 +is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6 St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre. +Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is the Palais de Justice. The church near +the station (No. 8) is St. Bénigne, easily recognised by its lofty +needle spire. Close to it is St. Jean, the church of Bossuet. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +196 +341 +DIJON, pop. 48,000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station. +_Hotels:_ La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the +station. Near the Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch, the +Bourgogne and the Nord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genève. Dijon is famous +for mustard, gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis. + +Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. every succeeding +hour. Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St. +Seine. The St. Seine dil. starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce, +82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine an excellent +road leads to the source of the Seine, 5 m. distant. (See +page 19.) + +Dijon: Salle des Gardes. Museums. + +The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which +was inhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le +Temeraire; but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de +Brancion, the Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the +ground-floor, and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by +323 steps, and commanding a bird’s-eye view of the whole town. The rest +is modern, and is occupied by the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the +École des Beaux Arts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum +is on the right side of the great court, and is open to the public on +Sundays. Other days a fee of 1 fr. is expected. In the Salle des Gardes are the +magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his son +Jean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of the +two, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and white +marble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty +statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the +articles which belonged to them in this room are three +beautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service; +and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and +the crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died +1098. +21 + +The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Two statues +of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each, but in +reality 6 feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a few choice +paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, is considered +one of the best. Down stairs is the Musée Archéologique, and the +kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys. Fronting +the Palais is the Place d’Armes, with its shops and houses arranged in a +kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Rue des Forges. +Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residence of the +British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the spiral +staircase is the “Homme au panier,” a statue 4 feet 6 inches +in height, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple or +serving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring, +like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for the +roof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fine +Renaissance façade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54 +of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of double +arch seen in the Hotel de Ville. +Dijon: Notre Dame. +St. Benigne. +Close to the Rue des Forges is Notre Dame, consecrated in 1331, +a very beautiful and interesting specimen of Burgundian +architecture. At the east end is the house Vogue, in the Renaissance +style, and farther east, in the Rue Chaudronnière, the Maison des +Cariatides. A short distance from the front of the Hotel de Ville +is the Palais de Justice, formerly the palace of the Parliament of +Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d’Assises is of massive carved +chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the same room is by Belle. At +the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the pretty little chapel which +belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre is St. Etienne, +founded in the 10th cent., and partly rebuilt in the 18th, but now the +corn-market. At the end of this same street, R. Vaillan, is St. +Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent., with a few curious frescoes. Standing +at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the Rue Guillaume, we have, towards +the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. in 1478, or rather what remains +of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; and a little to the N.E. by a +wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St. Bernard, who was born (1091) +at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateau beside the curious little church, +2 miles N.W. by the road of that name. Towards the right is St. Benigne, easily +recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, built in 1742, 300 feet +high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805. The crypt and the +porch belong to the 11th cent., the remainder to the 13th. In the south +aisle is the +22 + +slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski (1388), and adjoining the beautiful +mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In the N. aisle, in the baptistery +chapel, are deposited the remains of Jean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is +St. Philibert, 12th cent., with a narthex and a beautiful crocketed +spire. It is now used as an artillery store. +Dijon: St. Jean. Bossuet. +Asile des Aliénés. +From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean, +founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent., rebuilt in +1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the tracery +of the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not without +merit. +Bossuet was baptised +in this church, and born in No. 10 of this “Place,” 27th September 1627. +Among the writings of this eloquent and illustrious prelate the finest +is the funeral oration on the death of Henrietta Anne, the daughter of +our Charles I., and wife of the Duke of Orleans. Southwards is St. +Anne, 1690. At the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into +the Asile des +Aliénés, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi +in 1379. Fee, 1 fr. On the portal (14th cent.) of the chapel are +the kneeling effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied +by Sts. Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the +beautiful glass (15th cent.) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next +taken to the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter, +consisting of a hexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one +of the prophets, by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent., the sculptor of the +ducal monuments in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the +least successful, and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house +contains on an average 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers, +but an admirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and +Jura are comfortable houses, and although La Galêre is less so, its +charges are more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number +of pleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau +d’eau, and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens. +Towards the extremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old. +The southern continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue +Chabot Charny, the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards +long), to the public park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel +to the slopes of the famous wine producing hills of the Côte d’Or, +extending from N.E. to S.W., and attaining an elevation of 324 feet. +Behind them rises another range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and +sheltering the lower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and +Meursault grow the first-class Burgundy wines; while south from +Meursault follow the +23 + +Macon wines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten +years in bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years. + +Gevrey-Chambertin. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +203 +334 +GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, 1¼ mile from station, +pop. 2000. Famous for their first-class growths, of which the best are +the red and white Chambertin. Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, in +the commune of Gevrey, produce also first-class Burgundies. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +206¼ +330¾ +VOUGEOT, on the Vouge, +pop. 500, ¾-mile from station. _Inn:_ Groffier. Here there are +above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-class Burgundies. Among the +most distinguished are the Romanée St. Vivant, Romanée Conti, +Richebourg, and La Tache. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +209½ +327½ +NUITS, pop. 4000. _Inn:_ +Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. The best vineyard here is the +St. George, which produces a wine of an exquisite flavour and a delicate +and delicious bouquet. The church, St. Symphorien, belongs to the 13th +cent., and St. Denis to the 14th. 8 miles from Nuits is the abbey +of Citeaux, now used as a house of detention for youthful criminals, who +are trained here to be agricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by +Robert de Molesme in 1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of +the Cistercian order, and from it went forth four of its abbots, to +assume the keys of St. Peter. The greater part of the buildings was +rebuilt in 1798. + +Beaune. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +219 +318 +BEAUNE, pop. 12,000. +_Hotels:_ Chevreuil; France. On the stream Buzoise. This town is +the headquarters of the merchants who deal in Burgundy wines, as +Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around it are the first-class +vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Of these the Volnay +vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the most valuable wine, +under the names of Bouche d’Or and Caillerets, and the Pommard under +that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. The principal church, +Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent., contains semicircular and +equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthian capitals. + +In the Place Monge, off the street de l’Ile, is a bronze statue to +Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in +1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the Polytechnic +School. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the +15th cent.—a curious and interesting building. The Salle de +Conseil upstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a +painting of the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden. +24 + +Near Beaune is Savigny, with a château built in 1672; in the +neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide, the ruins of the abbey of St. +Marguerite, and the Roche Percée. + +Meursault. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +223½ +313½ +MEURSAULT, pop. 3000, +1½ m. from the station. Omnibus awaits passengers for the Inn. The most +distinguished wines produced here are the Goutte d’Or, +a golden-coloured wine, and the Perrières, a dry white wine of +a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny, where the +delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +228 +309 +CHAGNY, pop. 4200. +_Inn:_ Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers 102 m. W., +passing Nolay 5 m. W., Autun 26 m. W., Montchanin 18 m. +W., and Le Creusot 22 m. W. (see page +25, and map page 1). From Chagny +southwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards around +Chagny produce a first-class quality. + +Nolay, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards +in this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. A few miles +distant is the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. high. In a +deep fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3¼ m. E. are the ruins of +the castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a +remarkable echo. 8 m. beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal +mines. + +Autun. + +26 m. W. from Chagny is Autun, +pop. 13,000. _Hotels:_ Poste; Cloche. This modernised little town, +the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trèves the honour of having been built +before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent a winter in this city with two +Roman legions; and at a later period, when the Emperor Augustus went to +Gaul, he made Bibracte his headquarters, and erected so many magnificent +public buildings that the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum, +modernised into Autun. Napoleon III., in his “History of Cæsar,” +considers, however, that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount +Beauvray, 14 miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements, +fragments of pottery, and an enormous number of amphoræ, have been +discovered. The walls of Autun were 10,000 feet in circumference and +8 feet thick, and were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with +four large gates, of which two—the Porte d’Arroux, 55 feet high, +and the Porte St. André, lately restored—still remain. The Porte +d’Arroux and the temple of Janus (a plain square tower) are behind +the railway station. But the Porte St. André, adjoining an ancient +church, is on the town side of the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The +Cathedral, which commands the entire city, was completed in 1178. +The architecture of the modern portions is Gothic, but the more ancient +is Romanesque. The two towers have been restored and adorned with Gothic +spires. The interior contains several windows of painted glass. The +entrance is by a handsome open portico with sculptured arches and +columns. From the Porte St. +25 + +Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) a cross road leads to the +Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great +antiquity. + +In the College is the Public Library, with 12,000 volumes; and the +Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789 +Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun. + +Montchanin. Le Creusot. + +73 m. E. from Moulins, 86 m. E. from Nevers, 18 m. W. from Chagny, +is Montchanin, pop. +2500. _Inn:_ H. des Minis; its omnibus awaits passengers. The +town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly of the houses of +the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits, foundries, and large +artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town is the Étang Berthaud, +the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which connects the Saône with the +Loire, between Chalon and Digoin. + +78¼ m. E. from Nevers, 7¾ m. W. from Montchanin, and 26 m. W. from +Chagny, is Le +Creusot, pop. 25,000, of whom 6300 are employed in the +ironworks. _Hotels:_ Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the +principal street, the Rue d’Autun. Their coaches await passengers. Le +Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which +enclose this valley, 1¼ mile long and ½ mile wide, occupied by the +coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them +from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling +suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general feature +is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks, shops, and +cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few priests, +policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two hotels, is +a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878 by the +workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is +imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all manner +of powerful machinery, there is no noise. + +West from Le Creusot, and 65¼ m. E. from Nevers, is Etang, with an ancient castle. 51½ m. E. from +Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the Alène. _Inn:_ H. Delaigue, +close to station. Coach 12 m. to St. Honoré-Les-Bains, with +alkaline sulphureous springs, 90° Fahr. 33 m. E. from Nevers is +Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53 m. south from Clamecy by the rail, +skirting the Canal Nivernais. _Inn:_ H. de la Croix, close to +station. 23½ m. E. from Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. _Inns:_ +Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in the +Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais, which +commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish church +has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the 10th cent., +containing the tomb of St. Aré. Foundries, glass bottle works, and +coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes. + +26 + + +Chalon-sur-Saône. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +235 +302 +CHALON-sur-saône, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_ +at the station, Hôtel Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois +Faissans. Steamer to Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on +an extensive plain on the Saône, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre, +both lined with good quays. The chief structures are—St. Vincent, +a Gothic edifice of the latter part of the 13th cent., occupying +the site of a church founded in 532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty +steeples; and the hospitals of St. Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two +stations—one in the town, and another at St. Come, where the +express trains halt. 2 miles from Chalon is St. Marcel, where +Abélard died 1142. The church still remains, but the monastery has +disappeared. A few miles west by coach is Givry, pop. 3200, with +first-class vineyards. Rail to + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +243 +294 +VARENNES. South from +this station the train passes before the abbey of St. Ambreuil. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +254 +283 +TOURNUS, on the Saône, +pop. 6200. _Inn:_ Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. An untidy town on the +Saône, with remains of Roman fortifications. In the Place de l’Hôtel de +Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by the citizens in 1868. +Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are among the finest paintings +of the French school in the Louvre, was born here on August 21, 1725. +The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting Gothic monument, of +which the earliest portions belong to the 9th and the latest to the 16th +cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics. The Hôtel Dieu was +founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718, and the Hôtel de +Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce good wines. + + +opp. 27 +the RHONE & SAVOY +with the passes from +FRANCE INTO ITALY + +see caption + + +Macon. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +274 +263 +MACON, pop. 20,000. At +station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction with line to Bourg, +41 m. E. _Hotels._—Near the station, H. Étrangers. In +town the Europe, on the Quai du Nord, near the landing-place from the +steamers, which sail daily up and down the Saône, between Chalons, +Macon, and Lyons. In the centre of the town are the hotels Champs +Elysées and Sauvage. Macon is the great depôt of the Macon wines, an +inferior Burgundy. The finest part of the town extends along the quays +which line the right side of the Saône, crossed by a stone bridge of 12 +arches, uniting Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side of +the river. The oldest edifice is the Cathedral of St. Vincent, +built in the 12th cent. The arches are stilted, the columns Romanesque, +and the porch arcaded. Next to it is the Préfecture, formerly the +Episcopal palace. In this neighbourhood, +27 + +at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the house where Lamartine was born. On a +black marble slab over the door are the words:—Ici est né +Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre 1790. + +In the Rue Dombey is an old timber house, and towards the station, +the beautiful church of St. Pierre, built in 1865, in the Romanesque +style, and decorated with frescoes. Opposite is the Hôtel de Ville. + +From Macon a branch line extends 48 miles westward to +Paray-le-Monial, passing Cluny, 15 miles from Macon. From Macon a line +extends to Geneva 74 m. E., by Bourg 13½ m. E., Nantua and +Bellegards 39¾ m. E. (See Black’s _France_, North Half, and +map page 1.) + +Cluny. Paray-le-Monial. + +Cluny, pop. 5000. In the +valley of the Grosne. _Hotels:_ Bourgogne; Pavilions—both +near each other. This is the place where Guillaume-le-Pieux founded in +the 10th cent, the famous abbey of Cluny. The abbey buildings are now +used as a school. Of the abbey church an insignificant portion alone +remains, and of it the most interesting part is the spire. In the +Chapelle des Bourbons (15th cent.) are enormous corbels under the empty +niches. About 300 yards distant is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th cent., +with flattened elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors. +At the entrance is a collection of columns, capitals, etc., from the +first church founded in the 10th cent. Upstairs there is a small museum; +entrance, ½-franc each. + +41½ m. E. from Moulins and 33 m. from Montchanin is Paray-le-Monial, +pop. 3700, on the Bourbince. _Inns:_ The Poste, the best; across +the bridge, the Lion d’Or; at the head of the principal street, near the +Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; opposite the +Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H. des Pelerins. The Palais de +Justice, with the clock tower, occupies the remains of an edifice built +in the 16th cent., to which date belongs also the house close to it, +occupied by the Mairie and the Post Office. + +A little way down the Bourbince is the formerly abbey, now the parish +church, founded in the llth cent., but nearly rebuilt in the 12th cent. +Over the façade rise two elegant square towers with pyramidal roofs, +llth cent.; while from the centre of the transepts rises an octagonal +tower in 2 stages, surmounted by a tapering 8-sided slated spire. From +the apse radiate chapels adorned with dental friezes and short attached +columns. + +Marguerite. + +From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads up +to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order instituted in 1620, and +established in Paray on the 4th September 1626 by 8 nuns from the +monastery of Bellecour at Lyons. In 1633 they commenced to build their +chapel, which was repaired in 1823, and restored and beautified in 1854. +To this chapel the order attach great importance, as it was in this +building that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her interviews with +J. C. In the interior the walls and roof are +28 + +painted light brown, with frescoes and marguerites or daisies, but so +hung with banners and votive offerings, chiefly hearts, that little of +them is seen. The first picture, right hand, represents J. C. and 3 +angels before Marguerite. The 2d, J. C., with flowing yellow hair +and dressed in white, stoops to touch with his heart (which is very red +and outside his garment) the head of the kneeling Marguerite, who holds +her hands up near to her neck. The 3d is a full-length portrait of her. +To the left of entrance the pictures are—1st, a Vision; 2d, +Mary, sitting on a cloud, has put the child Jesus into the arms of +Marguerite; 3d, life-size statues of J. C. and Marguerite. The +picture over the high altar represents the interview in this place, when +J. C. is said to have declared to Margaret: “I have chosen and +sanctified this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here for +ever.” On the 2d July 1688 Mary, in great pomp and majesty, accompanied +by numerous angels, appeared to Marguerite, and told her that the orders +of the “Visitation” and of “Jesus” (the Jesuits) were to have the +special charge of the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship +there is a regular litany, containing 31 invocations to the heart of +J. C. In many of the Romanist churches is a picture representing +one of the above incidents. + +The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax, and attired in the +habit of the order, recline on a silver embroidered cloth in a +coffin-like shrine of richly-gilt, tiny glazed arches set with +rock-crystal. The face and hands are uncovered. The body is 5 ft. long. +On her feast day the shrine is placed beside the Communion rail; at +other times it is kept within the very beautiful altar-table, made of +one piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born 22d +July 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun, entered the convent +of the Visitation in Paray on the 25th May 1671, and took the vows on +the 6th November 1672. On the day when J. C. told her she had been +chosen by him to propagate the worship of his heart, she was seized with +a pain in her own heart, which continued throughout her life. She met at +first with great opposition in her endeavours to institute the worship +of the heart, and her sister nuns treated her as a visionary till 1675, +when the R. P. de la Colombière, superior of the Jesuit +establishment at Paray, became her convert. In her last illness she +said: “I shall die in peace, because the heart of my Saviour +commences to be known.” She died in October 1690, and was canonised by +Pio IX. on the 14th October 1864. Since the institution of N. D. de +Lourdes and de la Salette the number of pilgrims has decreased. In Paray +there are 3 nunneries and a vast building belonging to the Jesuits. + +From Macon the railway continues its course by the side of the Saône, +whose banks become now more picturesque. From Macon use map on page 26. + +Romaneche. Belleville. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +283 +254 +ROMANECHE, pop. 3000. +_Inn:_ Commerce. Produces a delicate light wine, with a pleasant +flavour and bouquet, called Moulin-a-Vent, which should be drunk in the +second year from the vintage. + +29 + + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +288½ +248½ +BELLEVILLE, pop. +4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and the next Belleville, +1¼ m. from the station, with a comfortable little inn, the +H. Jambon. Omnibus at station. The church, 12th cent., has small +round-headed and pointed windows, with some good glass, especially in +those of the square towers at the end of the transept, and the small +circular window over the west portal. This is the headquarters of the +Beaujolais wines. From Belleville a branch line extends 10 m. W. to +Beaujeu, pop. 4000, on the Ardière. Church, 13th cent., and some curious +houses. (Map, page 26.) + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +297 +240 +VILLEFRANCHE-sur-saône, pop. 12,600, on +the river Morgan, near the Saône. _Hotels:_ Provence; Europe. +Containing important linen manufactories, and vineyards producing a good +white wine. The parish church, N. D. des Marais, was commenced in +the 14th cent. 5½ m. S. is Trévoux station, 1½ m. from the +town, pop. 3000, on the E. bank of the Saône. _Inns:_ Terrasse; +France. The Jesuits compiled and printed in this town the _Journal de +Trévoux_ in 1701, and the _Dictionnaire de Trévoux_ in 1704. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +306 +231 +ST. GERMAIN au-mont-d’or, junction with +line from Paris to Lyons, by Roanne and Tarare. + +Lyons. + + +30 +[West] + +plan of Lyons +[East] + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +318 +219 +LYONS, pop. 343,000. The +Perrache railway station is 218 m. from Paris, 219 m. from +Marseilles, 78 m. from Aix-les-Bains, 36½ m. from Bourg, +104 m. from Geneva, 36 m. from St. Etienne, 56 m. from Roanne, +100 from Vichy, and 214 m. from Turin. + +_Hotels +(first-class)._—H. de l’Europe, admirably situated, +with one side to the Saône and the Tilsit bridge, and the other to the +Place Bellecour, the terminus of some of the best trams. In the Rue de +la République are the H. Collet and the H. de Lyon. +H. Bellecour in the Place Bellecour. H. des Beaux Arts in the +R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, also well situated. In the Place Perrache, below +the station, are the hotels Univers, Angleterre, Bordeaux et du +Parc. + +_Less expensive Hotels._—The H. du Globe; and the +Havre et du Luxemburg—both near the Place Bellecour. Near the +Place des Terreaux in the R. Platière, the H. de Paris et du +Nord. Near the Bourse, the H. des Négociants, a large house +frequented chiefly by commercial men. Near the Négociants, at No. 47 Rue +de l’Hôtel de Ville, the H. Bayard. Hôtel des Étrangers, Place de +la République. Hôtel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg, 8 frs., in the +Place Perrache, opposite the station. Hôtel National, opposite the +theatre. On the Quai do la Charité, near the General Hospital, the +H. Bourne. A great +30 + +many diligences start from this neighbourhood. Hôtel de France et des 4 +Nations, 9 Rue St. Catherine, close to the Place des Terreaux, one of +the cheapest. Among the best cafés are the Café Anglais, opposite the +Bourse; Casati, No. 8; Café Neuf, No. 7; and Maderni, No. 19 R. de la +République; Café du Rhône, Place Bellecour. They have English +newspapers. In Lyons the term Comptoir is applied to bars where wines, +cordials, and brandies are sold. + +_Post +Office._—Head Post Office in the Place de la Charité, at +the south end of the Place Bellecour. Branch Post Offices in the arcade +of the Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand. + +_Telegraph._—Head office, No. 53 Place de la République. +Branch offices—Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38 +Cours Morand. + +Lyons: Railway Stations. Cab Fares. + +_Railway +Stations._—The great and central station is the Gare de +Perrache, in the centre of the tongue of land between the Rhône and +the Saône. From it passengers can reach any place, excepting those on +the railway to Bourg. The Bourg or Satonay railway station is at +the top of the Rue Terme, a street commencing near the N.E. corner +of the Place des Terreaux. From the Rue Terme the train is pulled up the +hill by a rope in the same way as at Fourvière. The gradient is 16 per +100, and the distance 547 yards. At the top station, in the Boulevard de +la Croix Rousse, passengers for Bourg enter the ordinary railway +carriages. The rope railway runs every 5 minutes, fare 1d., and forms a +convenient way of escaping from the damp foggy atmosphere of Lyons. The +Dombes or St. Paul’s railway station is for Montbrison, +40 m. S.W. The Vaise and Brotteaux stations are auxiliaries of the +Perrache station. The Brotteaux station, situated on the confines of the +Parc de la Tête d’Or, is the terminus of the best of the trams. + +CAB +FARES + +KIND OF CAB. +DE 7 H. DU MATIN +a minuit. +DE MINUIT +a 7 H. du mat. +LA course. LA 1re heure. LES H. suiv. LA course. l’heure. +A 2 places (coupés) 1 25 1 50 1 25 1 65 2 50 +A 4 places (berlines) 1 50 2 1 50 2 3 +Voitures découvertes à 2 places +à 4 places 1 75 +2 2 +2 50 1 75 +2 2 15 +2 50 3 +3 50 + +The “coupés” are cabs with a seat for two. The “berlines” are cabs +with 2 seats for four. Each portmanteau 25 c. At the railway stations +the omnibuses from the hotels await passengers. + +31 + + +Lyons: Tramways. Theatres. Steamers. + +_Tramways._—The fares are moderate, and +most of the cars comfortable. The best to take to see the principal +parts of the town is the large roomy car running between the Perrache +railway station and the Brotteaux railway station, passing through the +P. Perrache, P. Henri IV., Rue Bourbon, P. Bellecour, R. and +P. de la République between the Hôtel de Ville and the Grand Theatre, +across the bridge Morand, and up the Cour Morand to the terminus at the +Brotteaux railway station. At the Brotteaux terminus the road by the +side of the fort “des Charpennes” leads in 5 minutes into the Parc de la Tête d’Or (see page 40), which having +visited, return either by the same car, starting every 10 minutes, or by +the other, whose terminus is in the Quai de la Charité. The outside of +the cars, taken also by ladies, costs 3 sous; inside, 4. The two most +important places to visit on the return journey are the Palais des Arts (page 35), and the silk museum in the Bourse (page 38). Tram +between the Place de la Charité and Oullins every 15 minutes; fare +outside, 3 sous. To visit the meeting-place of the two rivers, come out +at the bridge before crossing the Saône. Oullins, 3¼ m. from Lyons, +pop. 4000, is approached also by rail from Lyons. + +_Theatres._—The Grand Théâtre, +between the Hôtel de Ville and the Rhône. Boxes and front stalls, +6 frs. The Théâtre des Célestins, between the Rue St. +Dominique and the Saône. Boxes, 6 frs.; stalls, 4 frs. +Théâtre Bellecour, No. 85 Rue de la République, quite a new +theatre, with all the modern comforts and appliances, and seated for +3000. The prices vary according to the subject. For an opera the stalls +cost 7 frs. each; for a play, 4 frs. There are also the +Théâtre des Variétés, Cours de Morand; Théâtre du Gymnase, 30 Quai St. +Antoine; and the Théâtre de l’Elysée, 3 Place de la Victoire. + +_Steamers on the +Saône_ (Les Guèpes).—Sail between the Quai St. Antoine (to +the north of the Bourse) and Collonges, calling at the Ile Barbe. In +summer 5 departures daily. + +Les Mouches, or penny boats, sail from the quay near the Place +Perrache, by the side of the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on +the Quai de Vaise, calling on the way at numerous stations. From the +Pont du Port another set of penny boats ascend to St. Rambert, calling +likewise at numerous stations on the way. Opposite St. Rambert is Cuire, +and between them in the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe. + +The large steamers Parisiens sail in summer between the Quai St. +Claire on the Rhône and Aix-les-Bains on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and +32 + +Saturdays. Fare, 9 frs. Another line sails between Lyons and Avignon, +calling at the principal towns on the way, but chiefly for the landing +and shipping of cargo. + +Lyons: Sights. + +_Sights._—Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see +below). Drive in tram car, outside if possible, between the Place +Perrache and the Brotteaux railway station, page +31. The Parc de la Tête d’Or, page 40. +The galleries in the Palais des Arts, +page 35. The museum of silk +manufacture, page 38. + +Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largest +rivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which form as they approach +each other the isthmus, 545 ft. above the sea, on which the finest part +of the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets, +the Rue de la République, the R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, and the +R. Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautiful +squares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place +Perrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. In +the centre was a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Nieuwerkerke, +which was taken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of the +municipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour +(Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted with +trees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Lemot, +which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in +1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these two +squares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794, +during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts, +on the east the Hôtel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildings +pierced by an arcade decorated by P. Delorme and Maupin (see +page 37). + +The Rhône is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Saône by 13. The extent of +substantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24 +miles. For sailing on the Rhône the best steamers are the Bateaux +Parisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind +the Hôtel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For short +sails on the Saône the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient, +page 31. + + +opp. 33 +larger map of Lyons + + +Lyons: Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière. Rope Railway. + +The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, standing on the +site of the forum erected by Trajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere; +whence the term Fourvière is supposed to be derived. It ought to be +visited as early as possible, even should there be no time for anything +else, on account of the excellent bird’s-eye view of the city obtained +from it and its terraces. At the west end of the bridge of +Tilsitt across the Saône, at the upper side of +33 + +the “Place,” is the rope railway, which ascends through tunnels the +hill of Fourvière, the length of the Place des Minimes about ¾ of the +way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, right hand, by +the broad road, l’Antiquaille. At the highest part of this road is a +large ugly edifice, the Hôpital de l’Antiquaille, especially devoted to +the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It has +accommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Roman +palace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of this +hospital commences a narrow steep road called the Montée de Fourvière, +lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for the +pilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets, +medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and +hotels. + +On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Saône, +is the chapel of the “miraculous” image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, from +which rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6½ ft. high. +This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c., and commands a superb +view of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers are +immediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, Mont +Blanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the church +below, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less. +The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church, +which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884. +It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent object +in Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination an +octagonal tower 115 ft. high, which forms the chancel. At each of the +four corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are three +large windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the top +of the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiff +sculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in the +neighbourhood are convents. +Lyons: Observatoire Gay. +St. Paul. +A little eastward is the “Observatoire Gay,” from which a steep path, +the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yards long, descends to the city, +reaching it by the side of the station of the Chemin de Fer des Dombes (page 30). Near this +station is the church of St. Paul, all modern excepting the beautiful +N. portal, the handsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches, +a few of the windows, and part of the walls which belonged to the +original church of the 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the +early churches of Lyons are characterised by the enormous size of the +stones of which they are composed. Beyond is the bridge of St. +Vincent. + +34 + + +Lyons: St. Irénée. + +The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42 +Rue Trion, higher and to the N.W. of Fourvière and within a very short +distance of the church of St. Irénée, on the summit of a hill in the +suburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée are a +Via Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered by +the Rhône and the Saône. By the N. side of the church is the entrance +into the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second, +which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across the +first flight an inscription states: “Cette crypte fut construite par St. +Patient evéque de Lyon au V siècle sur l’emplacement du lieu ou St. +Pothin et St. Irénée, envoyés a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l’apôtre +St. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs y +furent ensevelis.” On the second arch another inscription states that in +1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones of +animals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée, +restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of the +saints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the first +flight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, the +original resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies were +thrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus, +a.d. 202. To visit the calvary and +crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c. The church of St. Irénée has nothing +particular. To the west, in the parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of +the Roman aqueduct which brought water to the city from Mont Pilat. It +was 52 miles long, and capable of supplying 11,000,000 gallons per day. +At present the water-supply of Lyons is obtained from the Rhône. + +Lyons: Cathedral of St. Jean. + +Opposite the commencement of the rope railway, and close to the +Tilsit bridge, is the Cathedral of Saint Jean, founded in the 8th +cent., repaired by Archbishop Leydrade, friend of Charlemagne, and +reconstructed almost entirely three centuries later. The chancel dates +from the end of the 12th cent., the lower part of the façade from the +13th, and the upper from the 14th cent. The exterior is chastely +decorated, but the four towers are too low. The interior, 259 ft. from +W. to E. and 108 ft. high, contains some brilliant 13th, 14th, and 15th +cent. glass. The wheel window at the west end resembles a fully-blown +flower. The clerestory windows are majestic and graceful. First, right +hand, is the chapel built by the Cardinal de Bourbon and his brother +Pierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows bearing their portraits, +and the curious wheel window at the end, are admirable. The soffits of +the arches and the vault of the roof are richly +35 + +decorated. In the N. transept is the now useless clock made by Nicholas +Lippeus of Basel in 1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St. +Pothinus, an Asiatic Greek, who preached in this city a.d. 177, and sealed his doctrines with his blood. +Adjoining the S. aisle is the Manécanterie, 11th cent., formerly the +bishop’s place, now the music school for the choristers. + +A little farther down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt) +occupied in the 13th cent. by the Knight Templars. Above the +cathedral is the Palais de Justice, planned by Baltard, the architect of +the large market, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade +of 24 Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the +court rooms around it are too small. The bridge higher up—the Pont +de Nemours—leads directly to the church of Saint Nizier, +with the façade towards the bridge and the chancel towards the Rue de +l’Hôtel de Ville. The handsome portal surmounted by twin spires is by +Philibert Delorme, a native of Lyons, and dates from the 16th cent. +The rest of the building belongs to the 15th cent. In the interior a +broad triforium with heavily-canopied window-openings surrounds the +church. The vaulting shafts expand in a curious way over the roof. In +the chapel of the south transept is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the +foot of the pier in this transept a trap-door opens into the crypt, 10th +cent. At the south side of the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre, +a modern edifice, with a beautiful portal of the 11th cent., all +that remains of the original church. + +Lyons: Palais des Beaux-Arts. Musée Lapidaire. + +On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the Palais des +Beaux-Arts, built in 1667, formerly a convent of the Dames +Bénédictines de Saint-Pierre. It contains the picture galleries and the +museums. Open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and feast-days, from +11 to 4, and to strangers daily. + +Admirably arranged under a wide corridor round the great court are +the ancient marbles or Musée Lapidaire, one of the best in Europe. +The sepulchral inscriptions form a most interesting series of epitaphs, +in many instances most tender and affecting. Indeed, reading these +records of the love of kindred among the ancient heathen, from the +Augustan age upwards, one would incline to believe that the Romans of +that day were already “feeling after” Christianity. In the left corner +of the court on entering is the stair which leads up to the +Archæological Museum and the Picture Gallery, both on the first floor. +Up on the second floor is the collection of paintings by the “peintres +lyonnais.” + +36 + + +Lyons: Musée Archéologique. + +The Musée Archéologique is well arranged +and carefully labelled. The only object we would indicate, as it is apt +to be overlooked, is the bronze table, a.d. 48, in the second room left hand, with +inscribed portions of the harangue of Claudius before he became emperor, +imploring the senate to grant to Lyons, his native city, the title of a +Roman colony. The letters are beautifully cut and easily legible. This +table was discovered in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sébastien. +Germanicus, and the Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla, +were also born in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose was for some time +prefect of Lyons. In the same room is a decree of the Egyptian pontiffs +in hieroglyphics. There is a good collection of seals, coins, enamels, +armour, carved work, and bronzes, as well as some necklaces, bracelets, +rings, and coins, part of a treasure buried during the Roman period on +the Fourvière heights, and discovered in 1811. The numismatic +collection, 30,000 pieces, includes a series of the coins struck at +Lyons from 43 b.c. to 1857. Adjoining +and on the same floor is the Picture Gallery, contained in six small +rooms, of which the first three contain the Flemish and Dutch schools, +the next two the Italian and Spanish schools, and the sixth the French +school. They are all carefully labelled. Among the pictures which +represent the Flemish school are works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers, +Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich, Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael. +The Italian and Spanish schools are represented by Canaletto, Sasso +Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo, Ribera, Zurbaran, etc. On the floor +of the fourth room is a remarkably perfect mosaic pavement, 5½ yards by +3, representing chariot races in the Circus. It was discovered near the +church of Ainay. + +Lyons: Galerie Chenavard. + +In the S.E. corner a handsome staircase leads up to the Galerie Chenavard on the +first floor, containing large cartoons drawn by him illustrative of the +scenes which accompanied the introduction of Christianity into France. +They were intended for the Pantheon of Paris, but, the age of reason +supervening, they were not sent. On the floors are three beautiful +mosaic pavements found at Lyons. In the room above are the best +pictures—J. F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel, +P. Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci, +1555-1619; P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E. L. David, +1748-1825; Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674; +Jordaens, Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillière, M. Mierveld, Murillo, +1618-1682; J. Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; an Ascension +of Christ, considered the gem of the collection. +37 + +This picture, originally in the church of San Pietro at Perugia, was +presented by Pope Pio VII. “in attestato del suo affetto é della grata +sua rimembranza per la citta di Lione.” The lower part of the picture is +by far the best, the figures in the air are too massive, and the posture +of J. C. is stiff. J. Ribera, 1584-1656; H. Rigaud, +1552-1745*; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael, A. del Sarto, +1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565; Sueur, +1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran. + +* Text shown as printed. Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1659-1743. + +The Palais des Arts contains also the Natural History Museum, the +Mineralogical +Collection, in which are represented the characteristic rocks +and fossils of every department of France, and the copper ores from the +mine of Chessy, near Arbrèsle; and a library containing 40,000 +engravings and drawings, and 650 volumes treating principally on the +arts and sciences. There are likewise 6 municipal libraries, open every +evening from 7 to 10, and the Bibliothèque de la Ville. + +Lyons: Place Terreaux. Hôtel de Ville. + +On the north side of the Place des Terreaux is the Hôtel de Ville, +built in 1665 by Maupin, at the cost of £320,000. The facade, flanked by +domed square pavilions, is 160 ft. wide, while the building itself is +1150 ft. long. The back part, fronting the theatre, is the Préfecture. +From the centre rises the clock-tower, 157 ft. high. On the façade over +the entrance is an equestrian statue of Henri IV. in bold relief. Within +the vestibule, to the right and left, are colossal bronze groups, by the +brothers Coustou, representing the Rhône and the Saône. They stood +originally under the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecour. + +In 1642 Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed, by order of Richelieu, +in the Place des Terreaux. In 1794 the revolutionary tribunal, sitting +in the Hôtel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that it +became so flooded with blood as to render it necessary to send the +executioners to Brotteaux, near the present railway station, to finish +this wholesale slaughter of Frenchmen by Frenchmen. + +Lyons: Condition des Soies. Library. Bourse. Silk Museum. + +Behind the Hôtel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, house No. 7, +is the establishment of the Condition des Soies, where the bales of silk +brought to Lyons are sent to be dried. They are placed on an iron +grating, and subjected for twenty-four hours to a temperature of from +64° to 72° Fahr., and are weighed both before and after this operation. +The same is done to the wool. The sample drying room is in the first +story, left hand. Any one may visit it. A little higher up are St. +Polycarpe built in 1760, and St. Bruno built in 1688. At the opposite +end of the bridge of St. Clair is the English church. + +38 + + +In the Rue de la République is the Bourse, a profusely ornamented edifice +inaugurated in 1860. At the south end is St. Bonaventure, built in the +14th cent., and recently restored. At the north end is the Lycée with +the public library, +containing the great terrestrial globe made at Lyons in 1701, indicating +the great African lakes, the rediscovery of which has been one of the +events of the present century. There are 160,000 volumes and 2500 +manuscripts,—about 600 of the printed works being incunabula, and +25 of the MSS. belonging to the Carlovingian period. + +In the second story of the Bourse is the museum of the Art and +Manufacture of silk. Open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays +between 11 and 4. The great hall contains, in high glass cases, +specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, arranged according to +centuries from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th, which is by far +the richest and most beautiful, is in two cases, representing the first +and the latter half of the century. This collection is choice and highly +artistic, displaying miniature portraits, superb embroidery, and lovely +designs in charming colours, woven in the loom. At the entrance to the +hall is a portrait (about 13 in. by 10) of Jacquard, in a sitting +posture, woven in white and black silk, like those at St. Etienne. Also +the Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of looms +from the time of Louis XI. The models are so perfect that each contains +part of a web woven in it. Among them is the model of the famous loom +made by Jacquard in 1804, by which a single workman was enabled to +produce elaborate fabrics as easily as the plainest web, and by merely +changing the “cartoons” to make the most different textures on the same +loom. Near the loom is the first sewing machine. The inventor was +B. Thimonier of Lyons in 1829, from which those now in use are +improved copies. + +The cases round the inmost room are devoted to the natural history of +silk—displaying every variety of the silk butterfly, Bombyx mori, +as well as of the allied species; cocoons of every kind and in every +condition; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their existence; and +hanks of raw silk from every part of the world where it is produced. +Adjoining is a room with drawings, many by the great masters. + +Formerly Lyons manufactured only high-class silks, but the demand for +these having been for some years on the decrease, the manufacturers, to +hold their place in the market against especially their Créfeld rivals, +have had to turn their attention to cheaper stuffs. This in some measure +is owing to the rapid and violent changes of fashion, +39 + +which makes a silk dress good only for a few months, whereas formerly, +with an occasional alteration, it was worn for years. + +In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large +covered markets; where many of the fishes of the Rhone may be seen alive +in tanks, and good Mont d’Or cheese be bought. It makes capital railway +travelling provision. (See page 42.) + +Lyons: City Hospital and Workhouse. + +Farther down the street, with the principal facade to the Rhône, and +the other, containing the entrance, to the Rue de l’Hôpital, is the +Hôtel Dieu, or +general hospital, with 1500 beds, founded in the 6th cent. by Childebert +and Ultrogotha his queen. The present building is principally the work +of Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of the beds, about +1300 are free, the remainder pay from 1¼ fr. to 12 frs. per day. The +rooms are lofty and well ventilated. The principal female wards are +arranged in the form of a cross, with an altar in the centre under the +small dome, in such a position that all the patients can see it from +their beds. From the large dome extends the principal ward of the men, +containing 100 beds, and a smaller one on the other side. The sick are +tended by nuns. The hospital has a house on the heights of the +Croix-Rousse, near the terminus of the rope railway, and another at +Oullins for incurables. + +In the first court left of the large court, Dr. Young buried Mrs. +Temple, the Narcissa of his _Night Thoughts_, who died in 1730 at +Montpellier, but was there refused burial. At that time what is now a +built-up court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago it was a garden, now it +is covered with buildings. All trace of the grave has disappeared. + +Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, 18th cent., richly +decorated. In a chapel, left, is the enormous gilt shrine, in 5 stages, +of Sainte Valentine. + +Farther down the Rhône is the Hospice de la Charité, founded in 1531, +on the occasion of a great famine. It receives the poor of both sexes +who have reached 70; sick children under 15, and young women about to be +mothers. The church was built in 1617. + +Lyons: St. Martin d’Ainay. + +North from the hospice or workhouse, near the bridge of Ainay across +the Saône, is the church of St. Martin d’Ainay, which, with the +monastery, was founded by St. Badulph during the reign of Constantine, +on the site of a temple erected by the sixty nations of Gaul in honour +of Cæsar Augustus. The first church having been destroyed by the +Saracens, in the 8th cent., it was rebuilt in 1070, and consecrated in +1106 by Pope Pascal II. Since then it has been frequently repaired +and altered. The style belongs to what is called modern +40 + +Greek, introduced into France under Charlemagne. The cupola of the +chancel rests on circular pendentive arches springing from four granite +columns which stood formerly in the temple of Augustus. They were +originally 2, but were cut into 4. The fresco paintings in the apsidal +chapels are by H. Flandrin, a native of Lyons. To the +right is the sacristy or chapel of Saint Blandina, in which a short +stair leads down to the crypt and the dungeons, one on each side, where +Pothinus, first bishop of Lyons, and Blandina, a converted slave, +were kept before being tortured and put to death in a.d. 177, during the persecution under Marcus +Antoninus, the implacable enemy of Christianity. The crypt, about 12 ft. +square, was, as well as the dungeons, about 10 feet deeper, but on +account of the overflowing of the river the floors were filled up to +their present level. + +Lyons: Parc de la Tête-d’Or. + +The Parc de la +Tête-d’Or, or park of Lyons, is situated at the N.E. extremity +of the city, between the Brotteaux railway station and the left bank of +the Rhône. It measures 282 acres, and contains, besides an abundant +supply of varied walks, a large and excellent botanic garden with +hothouses, a lake with islands inhabited by aquatic birds, and a +dairy farm, whose produce is sent every morning into town for sale. +Adjoining the park are the rifle-butts and the racecourse. In the +Boulevard du Nord is the Guimet Museum, containing a collection of +objects from the extreme east, to facilitate the study of the history, +religions, and customs of the inhabitants of that part of the world. The +institution publishes essays and translations. + +By the western side of the Brotteaux railway station are the large +barracks of the Part-Dieu and the Fort des Brotteaux. + +Lyons employs 70,000 looms and 140,000 weavers in the manufacture of +silk; and here, as at St. Etienne, the work is principally performed on +the domestic system in the dwellings of the master weavers, each of whom +has usually from two to six or eight looms, which, with their fittings, +are generally his own property. Himself and as many of his family as can +work are employed on these looms, aided frequently by one or more +_compagnons_, or journeymen, who inhabit chiefly the suburb of La +Croix Rousse, to the north of the town, and that of Fourvières, on the +Saône. The silk merchants supply the silk and patterns to the owners of +looms, who are entrusted with the task of producing the web in a +finished state. The mean annual value of the silk goods manufactured is +estimated at £15,000,000. + +The Dyeing of Silk—Origin of +Lyons. + +The dyeing of the silk is also an important branch of manufacture. +Many experiments had been made to bring this art to perfection, and +41 + +in particular to discover a dye of perfect black that would retain its +colour. This a common dyer of Lyons at last invented, for which he +received a pension, besides being made a member of the Legion of Honour. +Prior to this the black dye which was used changed in a few days to a +brown, and came off the stuff when it was hard pressed by the hand. +Another improvement which was made consisted in procuring a silk of a +permanent white colour. The eggs of the worm which produced this silk +were brought from China, not, however, with the desired success. The +worm was afterwards purchased from a merchant of Alais, and distributed +in the southern departments of the country, where now a large number of +persons are engaged in silkworm hatcheries. The produce of white silk is +now very considerable and of great importance in the manufacture of +gauzes, crapes, and tulles. Extensive chemical works, breweries, +foundries, potteries, engineering works, printing establishments, and +hat factories represent the secondary industries of Lyons. A large +trade is carried on in chestnuts brought from the neighbouring +departments, and known as _marrons de Lyon_. + +The earliest Gallic +occupants of the territory at the confluence of the Rhône and the +Saône were the Segusians. In 590 b.c. +some Greek refugees from the banks of the Hérault, having obtained +permission of the natives to establish themselves on the Croix Rousse, +called their new town by the Gallic name Lugdunum; and in 43 b.c. Munatius Plancus brought a Roman colony to +Fourvières from Vienne. This settlement soon acquired importance, and +was made by Agrippa the starting-point of four great roads. Augustus, +besides building aqueducts, temples, and a theatre, gave it a senate and +made it the seat of an annual assembly of deputies from the sixty cities +of Gallia Comata. Under the emperors the colony of Forum Vetus and the +municipium of Lugdunum were united, receiving the _jus senatus_. +The town, burnt by Nero in 59 a.d., +was rebuilt by him in a much finer style, and adorned by Trajan, Adrian, +and Antoninus. + +Mont-d’Or. + +Among the most interesting, and at the same time easiest excursions +from Lyons is to Mont Ceindre, 4 m. from Lyons. Take the omnibus +starting from the Rue de la Platière to the village of St. +Cyr-au-Mont-d’Or, 3¼ m., time 1½ hr., by a road always ascending. +Fare, ½ fr. The omnibus office at St. Cyr, the inn, and the café, are on +a wide terrace commanding an extensive view. The village, pop. 2000, is +poor and dirty, and built on the side of the hill. To ascend Mont +Ceindre walk from the omnibus office up to the new church, whence ascend +by the telegraph posts, and then turn to the right. The ascent +42 + +and descent can be done easily in 80 minutes, in time to go back to +Lyons by the returning coach. On the top of Mont Ceindre are some +houses, an old hermitage, and a chapel surmounted with a statue of Mary. +The view is grand, embracing the valleys of the Rhône and the Saône, the +towns of Bugey and Beaujolais, the mountains of the Forez, the Dauphiné, +and the Alps. Mont Ceindre, 1532 ft. above the sea; Mont Verdun, 2020 +ft.; and Mont Houx, 2008 ft., form together Mont-d’Or, a group of mountains +covered with vineyards and meadows. +Cheese. +The wine is thin, but the cheese is one of the best and most celebrated +in France. They are soft, round, and flat, about 5 inches in diameter +and half an inch thick, like round pancakes. They are made from a +mixture of cow and goat’s milk, and are said to derive their peculiar +flavour from the vine leaves on which the goats feed during a +considerable portion of the year. The cheeses of Mont Dore (likewise +famous) are thicker and smaller in diameter, and sold in small boxes. +The coach, on its way from Lyons to St. Cyr, passes by Roche-Cardon, +a favourite retreat of J. J. Rousseau. Another easy excursion +is to the Ile Barbe. Take any of the mouches (penny boats) going up the +Saône to Vaise station. Here change into the penny boat going to St. +Rambert, a rather dirty little town on the right bank, 1½ m. +above Vaise. Opposite, and connected by a bridge, is the town of Cuire. +In the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe, across which the bridge +passes. On the island there are a few uninviting country-houses, and the +tower of a chapel (private property) of the 12th cent. The sail is the +best part of the excursion, not the island. + +For Lyons to Nîmes, by rail 172 m. +south by the west bank of the Rhône, see p. 81; Paris to Lyons by +Roanne and St. Etienne, p. 346; Paris to Lyons by Tarare, +p. 348; Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by St. +Etienne, Montbrison, and Thiers, see p. 349, and map p. 27. + +Vienne. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +338 +199 +VIENNE, pop. 27,000. +_Hotels:_ Nord; Poste; Jacquet. In this, the capital of the first +kingdom of Burgundy, there exist remains of important edifices, which +indicate that the citizens inhabiting it in the days of Cicero were no +strangers to the luxury and wealth preceding the Augustan age. The most +interesting of these is the Maison Carrée, an oblong temple of +the Corinthian order, dedicated to Augustus and his wife Livia, 55 ft. +high, 88 long, and 80 broad, situated a little way north from the +cathedral by the Rue St. Clementine. On a terrace fronting the chain +bridge is St. Maurice, a beautiful Gothic cathedral +commenced in the 12th cent., 315 ft. long, and the +43 + +roof of the nave 88 ft. high. It contains some fine glass, and near the +altar the skilfully-sculptured mausoleum of Cardinal Montmorin, who died +in 1723. At the main entrance are two ancient sarcophagi. At the other +end of the chain bridge is the Tour St. Colombe, built by Philippe +Valois. Up the Rhône, on the east side, at the top of the Quai Pajot, +near a stair leading down to the river, stood the Tour de Mauconseil, +where Pontius Pilate, who had been banished to Vienne by Tiberius, ended +his life (it is said) by throwing himself into the Rhône. About +¼ m. down the Rhône from the railway station, by the Marseilles +road, is the Pyramide de l’Aiguille, called also the tomb of Pilate. It +is 52 feet high, and rises from four arches resting on a square +basement. Columns with cushioned capitals ornament the four corners, +which cannot date earlier than the 4th cent. Vienne is a busy commercial +town, with important woollen manufactories. 3¼ m. S. by rail is +Vaugris, pop. 250. On the other side of the Rhône is Ampuis (p. 81). 6 m. farther S. by rail is Le +Péage-de-Roussillon. Roussillon, pop. 1500, is a straggling village +among vineyards, less than a mile E. from the station. From the Château +de Roussillon Charles IX. issued, in 1564, the decree that in future the +year was to commence with the first of January. + +> +St. Rambert-d’Albon. Tain. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +356½ +180½ +ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON, +junction with line to Grenoble 57½ m. E., by Rives 35 m., and +Voiron 42 m. E. Junction by bridge with Peyraud, 3¾ m. +W., on the opposite side of the Rhône, whence rail to Annonay (see page 81, and map pages +26 and 46). + +5 m. S. by rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, pop. 4000. +_Inn:_ Merle. On the junction of the Galaure with the Rhône. In the +town is the restored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the valley of +the Galaure are the pass of the Roche Taillée, the ruins of a château of +the Dauphins, and the chapel of N. D. de Vals (see map, page 46). + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +368 +169 +TAIN, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ +H. Europe; Midi. A pleasant town on the Rhône, immediately +opposite Tournon (page 82), and at the foot of +the hill, whose vineyards produce the Hermitage wines. The red variety +has a fine perfume, and is gratefully stomachic. The white is a +luxurious wine, and will keep for a century, but the produce is small. +Omnibus at station for Romans, 13 m. on the rail between Valence +and Voiron (see map page 46), pop. 13,000. +_Inns:_ Europe; Midi. Situated at the confluence of the Isère with +the Savasse, crossed by a bridge of 4 arches which unites it with +Bourg-du-Péage, pop. 5000. + +44 + + +Valence. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +384 +153 +VALENCE, pop. 24,000. +_Hotels:_ Louvre; Croix d’Or; France. The first the most expensive. +Commodious Temple Protestant. Good Protestant schools. Suspension bridge +across the Rhône. Omnibus to St. Péray, 2½ m. west. Coaches daily +to Ardèche. Valence is a pleasant town on an eminence rising from the +Rhône, surrounded by broad boulevards on the site of the old +fortifications. The most handsome is the Place Championnet, on the site +of the citadel, commenced by François. It commands an excellent view of +the river and of the hills beyond. In the distance, to the right, on an +arid rock, is the castle of Crussol. In this Place is the statue “au +General Championnet, sorti des rangs du peuple. Hommage public de sa +ville natale.” Died at Antibes 1800. + +To the left of the statue is the cathedral St. Apollinaire, +built in 1095, and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower +were rebuilt in 1880. The other parts of the exterior have a venerable +appearance. The buttresses are shallow, and do not reach the eaves. +A delicate dentil cornice runs round the building, bending over the +round-headed windows and across the buttresses. Within, the church by +restoration looks as if it were modern. Tall piers, with attached +Corinthian columns and vaulting shafts, run up to the commencement of +the arches of the aisles and of the vault of the roof, all of stone. +From the semicircular chancel radiate 4 semicircular chapels, one being +occupied by the organ. At the right or S. side of the altar is the bust +by Canova of Pope Pius VI., who died at Valence in 1799. His +remains were removed to Rome. + +Outside, opposite the N. transept, is Le Pendentif, a sepulchral +chapel (22 ft. square and 25 ft. high) of the Mistral family, built in +1548. On each side is a large round arch, over which rises a remarkably +flat dome. Close to the “Place des Clercs” is the Maison des Têtes, +built in 1531, covered with mutilated statues and medallions under +canopy work. The medallions, bosses, and groining in the passage leading +into the court are in a much better state of preservation. +The windows in the court are square-headed, but most have lost their +transoms. Among the other buildings are a Temple Protestant, 18th cent., +and a picture gallery. + +Vernoux. Coaches from Valence. + +Rail to +Grenoble, 62 m. N.E., and to Chambery, 40 m. farther. Omnibus +daily to St. Péray (p. 82). Coach by St. +Péray to Vernoux, 18 m. W. Vernoux 1920 ft. above the sea, pop. 3100. +_Inns:_ Nord; Verd. Temple Protestant. One of the nicest towns in +Ardèche, situated in the midst of carefully-cultivated mountains and +valleys. A large proportion of the inhabitants are Protestants. + +45 + + +Valence is +one of the most convenient places for entering the Ardèche. Diligences +from Valence to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les Ollières, St. +Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and Le Cheilard +(see page 83). The diligences from Valence, Soyons, Charmes, +Beauchastel, and La Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at +St. Laurent-du-Pape; whence the passengers are conveyed in two +diligences the length of St. Sauveur, by St. Fortunat and Ollières. At +Ollières, H. du Pont, they meet and correspond with the diligence +from Privas. From St. Sauveur one diligence runs westward by the Glaire +to St. Pierreville and Marcols, the other northwards to Le Cheilard. +Valence is 5 hrs. from St. Sauveur. Beauchastel and La Voulte, 4 hrs. +St. Sauveur to Pierreville, 2½ hrs.; and to Le Cheilard, 3½ hrs. (see +also pages 93 and 94). Coach from Valence to La +Mastre, 21¼ m. W., passing by Champis, pop. 3380, at the foot of a +mountain, which during a part of the day intercepts the rays of the +sun. + + +ARDECHE +its vineyards and Extinct Volcanoes. + + +opp. 46 +_For continuation northwards see map, page 167._ + +map of Ardêche +_For map of the Mountains of Ardeche see page +84. +For continuation southwards see map, page 56._ + + +ARDÈCHE. + +(See Map, page 46). + +Ardèche should not be visited till June, and not later than September. +In the villages and hamlets in the pastoral districts most of the best +houses are inns or auberges, where a bed can be had, and abundance of +fare, in the shape of fried potatoes, butter, milk, eggs, coffee, bread +often of rye, and hard salt pork sausages. The national dish is potatoes +sliced very thin and fried with butter. They make also a pleasant soup +of herbs mixed with potatoes. The numerous inns are required for the +accommodation of guests during the fairs, of which each hamlet has at +least 2, while the larger villages and towns have from 4 to 8, besides +market-days. One of the prettiest sights in Ardèche is to see the people +flocking from every direction along the winding mountain roads to the +village where the fair is being held—many on foot driving small +parcels of pigs, sheep, goats, or cattle, or carrying baskets full of +eggs, cheese, and butter, and often an old hen; others with carts loaded +with potatoes; others travelling comfortably in their char-à-bancs; and +others on horseback, the women as well as the men being astride. + +Many of the inns, and even of the owners, are at first sight forbidding, +but after a little kindly conversation the aspect of things improves +rapidly. In the higher regions the agricultural products are potatoes +and hay. In the next zone are wheat, chestnut, walnut, apple, pear, and +cherry trees, cultivated on terraces supported by low stone walls of +rough unhewn stones. Vineyards are in the lowest zone, on the sunny side +of the mountains. The cattle are of a goodly size, mostly cream-coloured +and light brown, with large bones and white horns generally tipped with +black. + +At the fairs, besides every kind of country produce, girls and grown-up +women offer their hair for sale. The best do not yield above 8s., and +many only 2s. 6d. or 3s. When the bargain is made a woman shears it off +in the same way as sheep are shorn, leaving only +46 + +a little in front. It is all over in two minutes, twisted into a hank, +and thrust into a sack. Instead of receiving money, they usually take +the value in cloth and ribbons. The standard occupation of the females +during their long winters is lace-making. + +Among the remarkable sights in Ardèche are the volcanic rocks, Mont +Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, above the source of the Loire. The most +central station of the diligences is Le +Cheilard (see page 83). + +After Valence the railway traverses some of the most picturesque parts +of the valley of the Rhône. At Mornas, 44½ m. S. from Valence and +23½ m. N. from Avignon, begins the region of the olives. + +Livron. Crest. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +395 +142 +LIVRON, pop. 4500, on the +Drôme, at some distance from the station. Restaurants at station. Inns +in the town. On the other side of the Rhône, connected by railway +bridge, is La Voulte, 1¼ m. W. (see +p. 82). +A highway, partly by rail and partly by diligence, extends from Livron, +68 m. east, to Aspres on the line between Grenoble and Marseilles. +As far as the Pass de Cabres the road ascends the picturesque and +well-cultivated valley of the Drôme, where there is a large Protestant +population, nearly every village having its Temple Protestant (see maps, +pages 26, 46, and 56). + +11 miles E. from Livron by rail is Crest, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_ Bonsans-Reboul, the +best; opposite the France; and on the promenade, by the side of the +river and the bridge, the inn Pont de la Drôme. The omnibuses of the two +hotels await passengers. Crest is situated partly on the Drôme and +partly on the steep sides of a high hill. At the foot, in the +market-place, are the parish church and the Bibliothèque. Straight up +from the bridge by the R. des Cordeliers, and a flight of 116 steps, is +the entrance to the poor church of N. D. de la Garde, attached to +the “Asile” for young children. A little higher up are the hospital +and church. Above the “Asile” is the entrance to the enclosure, on which +stands a huge structure, partly Roman and partly the remains of a castle +which was added to it in the 13th cent. The highest side is 170 ft. +above the ground, and the other three 148 ft., ascended by 260 steps. +Although so high, the view is limited by the high side, into which +visitors are not admitted. The concierge lives below in the town, near +the hotel. The best way up the hill is by the first narrow street, left +from the hotel, the Rue de la Carrière, which continue to a stone +lettered “limite de l’Octroi,” whence ascend by the path, right, to the +Calvary, where there is a splendid view of the valley of the Drôme. + +Coaches daily from Crest to Montelimart, 22½ m. S.W. (see +Index); also to Beaufort, 12 m. N.E., on the Geroanne. From the +copious source of the Geroanne are occasionally thrown up blind trout. +3 miles from Beaufort is the picturesque gorge of Ombléze. Coach +also to Bourdeaux, 16 m. S., passing Saou, 9 m. S. from Crest +(see map, p. 56). +Saou. +Saou, pronounced Sou, pop. 1200, +is a poor dirty village on the Vebre. _Inn:_ H. Lattard. Mixed +up with and built into the surrounding squalid houses are the remains of +the abbey church and +47 + +buildings of Saint Tiers, founded in the 9th cent. The best parts are +the wall and square tower near the Mairie. The remains of the church are +within the court of a stable. Near it is the little parish church, 12th +and 13th cents. Saou is visited principally on account of the beauty of +the narrow valley of the Vebre, between two ranges of wooded mountains, +from 4000 to 5000 ft. above the sea, with sand and limestone strata +piled up into vertical cliffs and twisted into strange fantastic forms. +It is 8 m. long, and from a few yards to 2 m. wide. At the +commencement or west end, and on the right or N. side of the stream, is +the Roche Colombe, 4595 feet above the sea, and opposite, on the other +side, is the Roc, an isolated cliff like the shaft of a column. Mt. +Colombe has also a columnar cliff, and at the base a house called the +Donjon de Lastic, 14th cent., and a little farther down a square house, +with two round turrets, called the Château d’Eurre. The best parts of +the valley are this entrance and the east end, or its termination, where +the Roche Courbe or Veillou rises to the height of 5324 ft. above the +sea, and on which is the source of the Vebre. At the foot of Mt. +Pomeyrol, about a mile from the entrance, the valley becomes so narrow +that there is scarcely sufficient room for the stream to pass through. +2¼ m. farther up is the villa of Tibur, and, a little beyond, +the terminus of the valley. + +Bourdeaux. Dieulefit. + +Coach from Saou to Bourdeaux, 7 m. S. Bourdeaux, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ Blanc; Petit; +Temple Protestant. On both sides of the Roubion, 8 m. N. from +Dieulefit. On the left side of the river is the old town, composed of +squalid houses and execrably paved steep lanes, creeping up the hill, +crowned with the ruins of a large castle founded in the 8th cent. +Agriculture and the rearing of silkworms are the chief industries. +Although Bourdeaux is hardly 8 m. from Dieulefit the courrier +requires 2 hours to perform the journey, as a high mountain ridge, the +Dieu-Grace, intervenes between the two places. + +Dieulefit, pop. 5000. +_Inns:_ H. du Levant; Temple Protestant. On the Jabron at the +foot of Mont de Dieu-Grace, 17½ m. E. from Montelimart, between +which two towns several coaches run daily. In the town are silk, cotton, +and cloth mills, and in the suburbs potteries where a coarse kitchen +ware is made. The principal towns passed on the road to Montelimart are +Poët-Lavat, 3⅛ m.; La Begude, 7½ m.; under +Châteauneuf-de-Mazenc and Montboucher, situated on eminences at a +considerable distance from the road (see map, page +56). + + +Die. + +CREST TO ASPRES + +(Maps, pp. 46 and 56). + +_Crest to Aspres, 57 miles east by Die._—The road as far as +the Pass de Cabres follows the course of the Drôme. The first town +passed is Saillans, 9½ m. E. from Crest, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ +Lambert; Latour. In a ravine of the Drôme, 6½ m. farther, is +Pontaix, similarly situated. 23 m. E. from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres, +is Die, pop. 4000, the principal +town in the valley of the Drôme, which here receives the Mérosse. +_Inns:_ St. Dominique; Alpes—the coach stops between them; +Église Protestante. The Clairette de Die is a thin white wine, drank +during its first year; +48 + +in the second it is apt to deteriorate. Coach to Châtillon, 12 m. +S.E. Die, on the Drôme, is in a small plain surrounded by mountains, of +which the most remarkable is Mont Glandaz, 6648 ft. above the sea, +flanked by great buttress cliffs. On the top is an undulating plateau, +covered with _small_ stones and grass; 5 hrs. required for the +ascent. At the foot of the mountain is the rustic but not uncomfortable +establishment of Sallières-les-Bains; pension per day, with baths, +9 frs. The treatment is called “Sudations résineuses.” The bath +resembles a large oven, in which, after having been heated with resinous +fir-wood, the patients sit as in a Turkish bath. Open from 15th June to +15th September. The landlord is likewise proprietor of a large part of +Mt. Glandaz, whence he receives his supplies of fir-wood. On the top of +a hill on the other side of the Drôme is a similar establishment, called +the Martouret, pension 12 frs. The way to it strikes off the main road +opposite the eminence, on which is the chapel of Notre Dame, commanding +a very good view of the valley. At the entrance into Die from Crest, at +one of the old gateways, a road strikes off to the left, which +makes the tour of the ruins of the castle, amidst vines and mulberry +trees. At the other end of the town, near the viaduct, is a much better +gateway or Roman triumphal arch, fronting the “Place” St. Marcel. The +parish church has been rebuilt, excepting the narthex. + +Luc. Aspres. + +From Die the road to Aspres is continued by another diligence, which +changes horses at LUC en +Diois, pop. 940. _Inn:_ Du Levant; Église Protestante, +10½ m. S. from Die, or 23½ N.W. from Aspres. A poor town, +among vineyards and walnut trees, on the Drôme, at the foot of high +mountains. Nearly a mile up the river the narrow gorge becomes almost +closed by huge fantastic masses of conglomerate which have fallen from +the adjoining cliffs. 9½ m. farther up the valley is the village of +Beaurières (_Inn_, where the coach changes horses). The ascent is +now commenced by a beautiful and excellent road, of the Col de Cabres, +15 m. S. from Luc, and 4923 ft. high. On the pass, 2 m. from +Beaurières, is La Baume, with the cave of Baumette, and a waterfall 195 +ft. high. 4½ miles from Baume, and 3 from Aspres, is St. Pierre +d’Argenson, with a sparkling acidulous chalybeate spring, grateful to +the palate and invigorating to the system, and forming a refreshing +mixture with the wine of Aspres, which is thin, and is at its best when +2 years old. Aspres, pop. +800, is situated on the railway, 126½ m. N. from Marseilles, and +77½ m. S. from Grenoble. The coach sets down passengers either at +the station or at the inn H. Ferdinand. The church has been +rebuilt, excepting the portal, which has on the tympanum a curious +representation of the Trinity. + +Montélimart. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +412 +125 +MONTÉLIMART, pop. +12,000, situated at the confluence of the Roubion and Jabron with the +Rhône. _Hotels:_ near the station, the France; in the town the +Poste; the Princes. The office of the coaches for Le Teil, on the W. side of the Rhône; for Grignan, p. 49; Dieulefit, p. 47; Bourdeaux, p. 47; and Nyons, p. 50; is near the hotels Poste and Princes. Up +the Grande Rue is the principal +49 + +church. On the opposite side of it is the Place d’Armes, with the Post +Office, the Palais de Justice, and the Hôtel de Ville. At the top of the +first flight of steps in the Hôtel de Ville is a marble slab 1 yard long +and 2 ft. wide, bearing in Latin a charter of the town engraved in 1198. +At the end of the street, the Rue Porte-Neuve, off the “Place,” is the +Temple Protestant. Montelimart is famous for white almond-cake, +“Nougat,” of which the best is in the shops in the Grande Rue. On an +eminence on the side of the town farthest from the station are the +ancient citadel and the tour de Narbonne, 11th cent. Montelimart, +originally a city of the Seglauni, became a Roman settlement under the +name of Montilium, which was changed afterwards into Monteil-d’Adhemar +by a powerful family, who came into possession of it in the days of +Charlemagne. To the same family belonged also Rochemaure, on the opposite side of the Rhône (see +page 92, and map page 56). + +Omnibuses to the sparkling chalybeate spring of Bondonneau, +2½ m. S.E. +Two coaches daily to Grignan, 15 m. S.E. from Montelimart; one by +Alan and Reauville, the other goes round by Donzère, 4½ m. longer. +(See map, page 56.) + +According to Mr. Murray (p. 109) in the village of Alan, half-way between Montelimart and Grignan, “there +existed down to 1802 the first white mulberry tree planted in France. It +was brought from Naples by Guy Pope de St. Auban, seigneur of Alan, one +of the soldiers who accompanied Charles VIII. on his Italian campaign, +in 1494.” The mulberry tree occupies a much wider zone in the south of +France than the olive (see map, page 56). + +Grignan. Marquise de Sévigné. + +Grignan, pop. 1900; +_Inn:_ Sévigné, is built on the slopes of a hill on the top of +which, 100 ft. above the “Place,” are the gardens and ugly half-ruined +and half-inhabited castle where Mme. Sévigné died. The former Salle du +Roi has been converted into a picture-gallery, containing upwards of 300 +paintings, among which the most interesting are—the portraits of +Madame and her daughter, by Mignard. About half-way up the hill is the +church, commenced in the 12th cent. In front of the altar a white marble slab, 2½ ft. long by +1½ wide, bears the following inscription:— “Cy Git Marie de +Rabutin Chantal, Marquise de Sévigné. Décédé le 18 Avril 1696.” Above +the well, in the “Place,” is a bronze statue of her with corkscrew +curls. About ½ m. from the town is what was one of her favourite +walks to an overhanging ledge of sandstone called the Grotte de +Roche-Courbière. To visit it, descend from the inn, then take the first +byeroad right, by a row of poplars to a short stair. A coach runs +from Grignan to Nyons, 20½ m. S.E. by Valréas and Taulignan. +Valréas (pronounce the “s”), +8¼ m. from Nyons and 22 from Orange, pop. 950; _Inn:_ +H. du Nord, is partly surrounded with its old walls, garnished with +square towers and pierced by narrow gateways. Taulignan, 17 m. N.W. +50 + +from Nyons by Valréas and 11¼ m. by Rousset, _Inn:_ H. du +Commerce, pop. 1200, is also partly surrounded with its old walls. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +420 +117 +DONZERE. H. du +Commerce. Romanesque church with handsome spire. Four and a half miles +south is Pierrelatte station, and the terminus of the unfinished +railway to Nyons, 15 miles from Grignan. +Coach from Pierrelatte to St. Paul-Trois-Châteaux, fare 6 sous, time 45 +minutes. This, the Roman Augusta-Tricastinorum, contains an interesting +cathedral of the 12th cent., restored. Many Roman relics have been found +in the neighbourhood. + +La Croisiere. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +432 +105 +LA CROISIERE. +Two small inns at station. +Omnibus awaits passengers for Pont Saint-Esprit, H. de l’Europe, +3½ m. W. on the other side of the Rhône by an avenue of poplars. +Fare, 40 c. The bridge is 2756 ft. long, has 20 arches, was commenced in +1265 and finished in 1309. Till 1865 it had 21 arches, when the two at +the W. end were demolished and converted into one large iron arch for +the convenience of the steamboat to pass through. (For Pont Saint-Esprit, see page 98). + +Diligence at La Croisiere station for Nyons, 29½ m. E. by the +valleys of the Lez and the Aigues, and the town of Bollène, pop. 6000. +_Inn:_ Croix Blanche, on the Lez, 4½ m. E. Manufactures +of fire-bricks and clay-tubing. 7½ m. E., Suze-le-Rousse, pop. +2200. Coach here to Mansis. 12 m. E., Tulette, pop. 1300; +_Inn:_ Vigne. Horses changed here. 15¾ m. E., St. Maurice, +pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Lion d’Or. Near the village of Vinsobres a +cross-road leads to the highway between Nyons and Vaison. At Nyons the +coach stops in the “Place” in front of the H. du Louvre; whence the +diligences start for Grignan and Montelimart (see map, page 56). + +Nyons. + +NYONS, on the Aigues, pop. +4000. _Hotels:_ Louvre, in the Place; Voyageurs, in a corner. +Temple Protestant next the hospital. Nyons, surrounded by high +mountains, is famous for its mild springs, and therefore eminently +fitted for those returning from the Riviera. The orange and palm do not +grow here, but abundance of mulberry, almond, fig, peach, and pear +trees. In the oak forests are remarkably fine truffles. Silk mills and +the preserving of fruit and truffles supply the principal industries. +The old town, called Les Forts, is built on an eminence partly +surrounded with its old walls garnished with square towers, 14th cent. +The vieux château, or centre tower, has been converted by the curate +into a chapel surmounted with an image of the “immaculately conceived.” +The part of the town below is called Les Halles, whose dirty streets are +bordered with thick heavy arches. The rest of the town, extending to the +Aigues, is called the Bourg. The bridge, built in 1341, is of one arch +and considerably higher in the centre than at the ends. + +The Pontias Breeze. + +Behind the old town is the ridge called the Col-du-Divès, on which is +the cavern, or rather hole, whence it is reported (most absurdly) that +the night-breeze called the Pontias issues. In winter this wind is very +51 + +cold, and blows from 5 p.m. to 9 a.m. In summer it is pleasant, and blows +from 9 p.m. to 7 a.m. The peculiarity is, that the degree of force is +constant, and never breaks out into gusts. To go to the cave, commence +from the foot of the tower of the church and ascend by the Rue +Pousterle, having on the left the old town-walls. Beyond the last tower +a path strikes off to the right, which take, and ascend to a small +chapel on the top of the ridge, passing at about half-way a pavilion. +Or, if preferred, continue the road from the tower to the part of the +ridge where there is a gap; whence take the path at the back of the +ridge leading to the chapel. Those who have ascended by this latter way +retrace their steps from the chapel by the same path for 116 yards; +while those who have come by the other go 116 yards beyond the chapel. +Then about 30 yards to the left of the path will be observed the thin +ledge of a rock overlying a small cavity, which is the entrance to the +Pontias hole, of great depth, but otherwise of insignificant dimension. +Among the neighbouring calcareous strata are several crevices. The view +of the valley of the Aigues from this hill is very beautiful. The ascent +takes 35 minutes. + + +NYONS TO SERRES. + + +Nyons to Serres (see map, p. 56), 41 miles +east by the valleys of the Aigues and Blème, bounded on both sides by +high mountains. Time, 7 to 8 hours. Fare, 7½ frs. Most of the towns +passed are at a considerable height above the road, and sometimes on +account of the steepness of the banks cannot be seen from it. The first +village passed is Les Piles, situated on the road 3¾ m. from Nyons, +and 3½ m. from the gorge “Des 30 Pas,” one of the excursions from +Nyons. A little farther E. is Curnier, on a hill on the S. side of +the river, here crossed by a bridge. Then follows Sahune, also on a hill +on the S. side of the river. The gorge now becomes very narrow and the +mountains precipitous, and, having passed under Villeperdrix, the road +crosses to the S. side of the river and arrives at the station for St. +May, where there is an inn, H. Marius. St. May itself is high up on +the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is on the point of a lofty +precipitous rock. After St. May the diligence crosses the river to the +village of Rémusat, 17 m. E. from Nyons on the Oule, at its +junction with the Aigues. The diligence now returns to the S. side of +the river, which it crosses for the last time at Verclause, 22 m. +from Nyons, and then proceeds to Rosans, 3½ m. farther or +15½ m. from Serres. From Rosans commences the ascent of the low Col +of Ribeyret, whence the road descends to Serres by the N. side of the +Blème, passing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200. +_Inns:_ Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112½ m. N. from +Marseilles and 77½ S. from Grenoble (see p. 340). + +Orange. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +444 +93 +ORANGE, pop. 10,300. +_Inn:_ H. de la Poste et des Princes. This, the Arausio of the +Romans, is situated on the slowly-running Meine. Close to the hotel is +the Triumphal Arch supposed to have been erected in honour of Tiberius +for his victory over Sacrovir and +52 + +Floras, a.d. 21. It stands E. and W., +is of a yellowish sandstone, 75 ft. high, 64 wide, 27½ deep, and +consists of 3 arches, of which the centre one has a span of 17 ft. and +each of the other two a span of 10 ft. The soffits are ornamented with +six-sided sculptured panels. By the side of each arch is a grooved +Corinthian column. Over the small arches are sculptured trophies in the +shape of shields, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows, +etc. Over the main arch, on each side, is a group representing a +combat. + +At the other end of the town are the cathedral and the Roman theatre +at the foot of the hill, crowned with an image of Mary. The +Cathedral of Notre Dame, 12th cent., is small, and resembles in +style the churches of the S.W. of France, of which the cathedral of +Perpignan is the great type. No transepts nor triforia. Lofty chapels +between the buttresses, and over the arches diminutive clerestory +windows. A plain and ugly square tower, in this case, at the east +end. Adjoining is the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, with a statue to +“Raimbaud II., Comte d’Orange, vainqueur à Antioche et à Jérusalem +en MXCIX.” In the promenade of the town, the Cours St. Martin, is a +statue to the Comte de Gasparin, a writer on agriculture, and a +native of Orange; where also he died in 1862. At the foot of the hill, +overlooking the town, are the grand and imposing ruins of one of the +most perfect Roman theatres. It is built in a semicircular form, has a +façade 118 ft. high and 384 ft. wide. The wall is 13 ft. thick, composed +of huge blocks of stone. The semicircular wall consists of five stages, +and included accommodation for 6500 spectators. The building has +recently been repaired and cleared of a quantity of rubbish. + +Prince Of Orange and Orangemen. + +In the 11th cent. Orange became an independent countship, probably +under Raimbaud I., whose successor, Raimbaud II., has just +been noticed. On the death of Philibert of Châlons, last of the third +line of princes, the inheritance fell to his sister’s son Count René +(Renatus) of Nassau-Dillenburg, who remaining childless chose as his +successor his cousin William I., stadtholder of the United +Netherlands. The title “Prince of Orange” was consequently borne by the +stadtholders Maurice, Frederick-Henry, William I., +William II., and William III. After the Revolution in Ireland +of 1688, the English-Protestant party were designated Orangemen, from +the title of their leader, William III., Prince of Orange. Louis +XIV. seized the principality of Orange in 1672, but lost it by the peace +of Ryswick. On the death of William III. there were two +claimants—John William Friso of Nassau-Dietz, designated by +William’s will, and Frederick I, King of +53 + +Prussia, who claimed to be nearer of kin, and to have been appointed by +the will of Frederick-Henry. Thereupon Louis XIV. declared the +principality a forfeited fief of the French crown, and assigned it to +the Prince of Conti. The Parliament of Paris decided that this last +prince should have the _dominium utile_; and its finding was +confirmed by the treaty of Utrecht (1713), which, however, left the +title and coat of arms to the King of Prussia, who is still styled +Prince of Orange (Prinz von Oranien). John William Friso, however, also +took the title, and his successors the stadtholders and kings of the +Netherlands have all been designated princes of Orange-Nassau. Vast +numbers of silkworms are reared at Orange. Coach daily to Valréas 22 m. E., p. 49, and to Vaison +17½ m. N.E. (Map p. 56.) + +Vaison. St. Quenin. + +Vaison, pop. 3400. +_Inn:_ H. du Commerce. 5 m. N. from Malaucene, +17½ m. N. from Carpentras, 11¼ m. S. from Nyons, 13½ m. +W. from Le Buis, and 4 m. S. from Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is +on the left side of the Ouvèze, and new Vaison on the right. Both are +connected by a Roman bridge of one arch of 48 ft. span, having at the +left side a more elongated curve than at the right. The old town, with +its squalid streets and poor houses, covers the sides of a hill crowned +with the ruins of a castle built by Raymond VI., Count of Toulouse, +in 1195. It is a plain rectangular edifice, 20 yards square, with a +small square tower at one of the angles. A little below is the +parish church with round and early pointed arches and square tower at +S.E. end. The view from the terrace is beautiful. + +The most ancient and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison, and +very near each other. Take the Villedieu road to just without the town, +where a byeway on the right leaves the main road at an acute angle. +Continue this byeway to two arches, which indicate the site of the Roman +theatre. The chapel seen to the N.W. is St. Quenin, while a little beyond is the +cathedral. The amphitheatre, or “les arènes” as they call it, is built +on the same plan, and in a similar position, as the theatre of Orange, +but far less perfect. Besides the two arches, there exist still five +tiers, but all the stone seats are gone, excepting those on the lowest +stage. Now it has become a vineyard and an orchard. Beyond, by a narrow +road, is St. Quenin, of which the east end is Roman, and may date from +the 4th cent., but the rest belongs to the 10th. The east end, or +apsidal termination, is in the form of an equilateral triangle, with an +attached fluted Corinthian column at the apex, and also at each of the +angles of the base. One of the pillars has figures on the capital. The +neat little round-headed window on each side of the triangle is +evidently a later addition. Bishop Quenin died in 578. + +Of the Cathedral the best part is also the outside. Under the +eaves of the roof of the nave run a dentil moulding, and a frieze of +medallions connected by an undulating line of foliage. The walls are +pierced by small round-headed windows resting on spiral colonnettes. +54 + +The frieze of the aisles is plainer. In the interior, early pointed +arches of great span, rising from four massive piers of clustered +pilasters on each side of the nave, support a narrow-vaulted roof, also +pointed. This part of the church dates from the 12th or 13th cent.; but +the chancel, with its two Roman pillars, and arcade of blank arches on +colonnettes, is much earlier. Over the little chapel, at the N.E. side, +rises an elegant square tower. Next the tower is a very beautiful +cloister, 11th cent., bearing some resemblance to the cloister of St. +Michel in Brittany. It is 22 yards square, surrounded by an arcade of 13 +arches on colonnettes in couples 3½ ft. high. At the corners is either a +massive stone pier, or the stone hewn into 5 colonnettes. All the Roman +antiquities Vaison has retained for itself are under this corridor. The +most perfect piece of sculpture is a skull. On the top of the hill +opposite the castle stands an image of the “Immaculée” on the capital +and part of the shaft of a Roman column. (Map p. 56.) + +Sorgues. Carpentras. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +455 +82 +SORGUES, pop. 4000, on the +Sorgues, which rises at Vaucluse. Junction with line to Carpentras, +10½ m. eastwards. Carpentras, pop. 10,500, on an eminence +surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. _Hotels:_ Universe; +Orient, both good, and in the large “Place” opposite, the Hôtel-Dieu, +built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. In the Hôtel-Dieu are a portrait by +Rigaud of the Abbot Rancé, and a handsome staircase. In the centre of +the Place is a bronze statue of the benevolent Malachie d’Inguimbert. +From this “Place,” up the narrow street, the first public building is +the church of St. Siffrein, dating from 1405. +The square tower, with octangular cupola, attached to the north side of +the chancel, was part of a former church constructed in the time of +Charlemagne. The stair (89 steps) up to the roof, whence there is a +pleasing view, commences at the south side of the chancel, outside. +Among the pictures in the interior of the church, the best is a +“Salutation” by the Flemish painter Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the +pulpit is a picture by Mignard representing Mary giving some of her milk +to St. Bernard. At the commencement of the chancel, near the cupola, is +the chapel in which the reliquaries are kept. Among them are the skull +and bones of St Siffrein, and the nail that pierced the right hand of +J. C. on the Cross. In the chancel is a “Coronation” of Mary +painted on wood, 15th cent., and behind the altar another “Coronation” +by P. Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and Siffrein. +Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, 1640, with frescoes and a crucifix +in the “salle des assises.” Within the court, right hand, is a Triumphal +arch, erected by Diocletian between 284 and 305, 30 ft. high (but +originally higher), 25½ ft. wide, 14½ ft deep, and 10 ft. span. On the +N. side, between two attached fluted columns, is, in bold relief, +a Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On each side stands a +prisoner, with his hands behind him, chained loosely to the cross. From +the cross are suspended swords, horns, and pouches. On the south side is +a similar cross, but not in +55 + +such a good state of preservation. The main beam resembles more the stem +of a tree. From the top hangs the dress of a warrior. + +The continuation of the street from the church leads to the Porte +d’Orange, surmounted by a square tower 120 ft. high, of which only three +sides exist. It was built by Innocent VI., who also surrounded the +town with the ramparts, which now form beautiful Boulevards. From the +boulevard in front of the gate are seen to the left the canal aqueduct, +to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance, between the +two, beyond a smaller ridge, Mont Ventoux, extending from N.W. to S.E., +with a slight bend. The aqueduct which brings water to Carpentras +crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 massive arches. The canal, which +by irrigation fertilises the surrounding country, extends from the +Durance to the Ouvèze, a distance of 43 miles, and cost £90,000. In +the principal Boulevard, nearly opposite the manufactory of preserved +fruits of Eysseric, is the building containing the library and museum. +The library contains a valuable collection of manuscripts, explained in +a printed 4to volume, several rare incunables, and above 4000 vols., for +which there is not sufficient accommodation. +Carpentras: Museum. +In the “Musée” are a few good pictures, and Roman statuettes in bronze +and marble, all from Vaison, excepting a small Apollo found at +Carpentras. The gem of the antiquities is an Egyptian-Aramaic limestone +slab, 4th or 3d cent. b.c., 19¼ in. +long by 13½ wide and 1 thick, divided into three compartments by narrow +borders. In the principal compartment stands a young woman with uplifted +hands before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table on which are +sacrifices. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second compartment, +is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the jackal-headed +Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the four customary +funeral vases. Below this, in the third compartment, is an Aramaic +inscription in four lines, of which the last two are injured. The first +French opera was written in Carpentras by the Abbot Mailly in 1646. +Truffles. +Truffles or tuberous mushrooms are black, dark gray, violet-coloured, or +white. The last variety, principally found in the N. of Italy, has the +smell of garlic. About Carpentras, and in the department of Vaucluse, +they are black, and are found from 4 inches to 1 foot below the +ground, at the extremities of the fibrous roots, both of the common and +of the evergreen oak. The season for gathering them is from November to +the end of March, after which those which remain become soft and +decompose. They are at their best in January, when the rind is black, +hard, and rough, and the inside mottled black and white. In size and +shape the best resemble small round potatoes, of which the largest may +weigh ½ lb., although few are of that size. They are sought by means of +dogs and swine, both of a peculiar breed; the sow being the more +dexterous of the two, and continues efficient for its duty for upwards +of 21 years. It scoops out the earth with its powerful snout in a +masterly manner faster than any dog can do. When just about to seize the +truffle, the attendant thrusts a stick between its jaws, picks up the +truffle himself, and throws to the sow instead two +56 + +acorns. Without this reward each time, the sow would not continue the +search. Till the truffles are ripe, they have no odour. + +Ortolans. + +The ortolans, which +breed about the hills and woods of Carpentras, migrate in autumn. While +on the wing they are allured down to nets laid for them by ortolans +singing in cages. Those caught are put into dark rooms, where they are +fattened. In about a month’s time they become so plump as hardly to be +able to fly, when they are killed and sold, excepting a few kept for +alluring the others next year. The singing time of these is transferred +from spring to August, by pulling out the large feathers of the tail and +wings in April, and keeping them in a dark apartment till August. + +Carpentras is also famous for its preserved fruits and “berlingots,” +a sweetmeat made of the syrup of a mixture of fruits, not unlike +barley sugar, but cut into pieces 1 in. square. The best maker is +Eysseric. + +Carpentras is a good halting-place for delicate people returning from +the Riviera—the hotels are comfortable and the prices +moderate—excellent public library, pleasant walks, and in the +vicinity of many interesting places connected by roomy diligences. + +Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons 28½ m. N., by Vacqueyras +6½ m., and Vaison 17½ m. Also to Nyons 26 m., by +Malaucene 10 m. N.E., and Vaison 15 m. by this way. Coach to +Buis-les-Baronnies 23 m. N.E., passing through Malaucene. Coach +from Buis to Nyons 19 m. N.W. by Mollans. Courrier from Vaison to +Buisson 7½ m. N. on the Aigues. Coach to Sault 28½ m. E. + +Omnibus several times daily to St. Didier 4½ m. S.E. Coach daily to +L’Ile 10½ m. S., convenient for visiting the fountain of Vaucluse. +Coach on market-days from Carpentras to Apt 28½ m. S.E., by +Venasque 7¼ m. S.E. (For these places see Index, and maps pages 56 and 66.) + + +THE PLAINS +between the ARDECHE, +the RHONE and the DURANCE. + + +opp. 56 +[West End] _For continuation northwards see map, +page 46._ +[East End] _For continuation northwards see map, page 327._ + +the plains +_For continuation eastwards see map, page 327._ +[West End] _For continuation southwards see map, +page 66._ +[East End] _For continuation southwards see map, page 163._ + + +Bedoin. Mont Ventoux. + +Coach daily to Bedoin 8¾ m. +N.E., 900 ft. above the sea, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Hôtel de Mont +Ventoux. Station to ascend Mont Ventoux, 6274 ft., by a good road from +the south end of the ridge. The base is about 2 m. from the village +and the top 10 m. by the easy southern slope. Time to ascend, from +5 to 6 hours. Mule, 10 frs. No guide necessary. Before commencing the +ascent, go to the top of the hill by the side of the church and take a +general survey of the land. The road extending to the right, under those +mulberry trees, is the one to take. A little distance along it, at +a well with a cistern, a narrow road strikes off to the left and +ascends the mountain by a steeper and shorter way. The mountain offers a +splendid field for botanists. To see the sun rise from the top, +travellers generally start at 11 p.m., +and await the appearance of the glorious luminary in the chapel of Ste. +Croix, on the summit. Mont Ventoux is the culminating point of the Lure +range, an offshoot from the Alps. Among the minerals it has quartz in +every form and colour, in nodules and in strata. Also beautiful jasper +and fossils such as ammonites and belemnites. The kaoline clay, “terre +de Bedouin,” is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon, +a village 2¾ m. N.E. At different parts in this +57 + +neighbourhood are strata of sandstone with fossils, overlying beds of +sand. These strata crop up at different parts of the department. + +Resin Baths. Malaucene. + +Four and a half m. S. by omnibus from Carpentras is the village of +St. Didier, with a good +hydropathic establishment in an old château. Rooms from 1½ fr. to +3 frs. Servants’ rooms, 1 fr. Meat, breakfast and dinner, both +with wine, 5 frs. Coffee in the mornings, ½ fr. Meat, breakfast and +dinner, for children and servants, 3 frs. Service, ½ fr. First +consultation, 10 frs. Every other consultation in the study gratis; but +in the guests’ room 1 fr. each time. The baths are in the style of +the Turkish baths, with the addition that the heated air is impregnated +with resin or is turpentinised (_térébenthiné_). It has a +beneficial effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is 2¾ +m. W. from Venasque and 2 m. from Le Beaucet (map p. 56). + +Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23 m. +N.E., by Malaucene 10 m. N.E. The road from Carpentras, in crossing +the N.W. extremity of the Ventoux chain, passes by the village of Le +Barroux on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 15th cent. At the +foot of Mont Ventoux, 5 m. S. from Vaison and 13 m. S.W. from +Buis, is Malaucene, +1000 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Hôtel de Cours, in a +picturesque neighbourhood, of which there is a good view from the +calvary on an eminence in the town. At about ½ m. from the inn is +the spring Groseau, gushing forth from the base of a lofty calcareous +cliff, crowned with the ruins of the chapel of Groseaux, 11th cent. The +stream that issues from the spring is soon strong enough to set in +motion the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Any one may visit +the silk mills. In 1345 Petrarch ascended Mont Ventoux from Malaucene. +The ascent from this place is more difficult, but more picturesque than +from Bedoin and requires 2 hours more. On the side of the mountain are +the springs—Angel, 3826 ft.; Puits de Mont-Serein, 4774 ft.; and +Font Filiole, 5866 ft. + +The road from Malaucene to Buis follows the picturesque valley of the +Ouvèze. The most important village passed on the way is Mollans, with, +in the neighbourhood, a great cave, beyond which is a deep lake. +Shortly before arriving at Le Buis are seen, on an eminence, the bronze +statue of Bishop Trophime, and beyond, the cliff of St. Julien. No +public vehicle goes farther than Le Buis, although the road is good the +length of the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, passing St. +Euphemie 7 m. E., St. Auban 10 m. E., Montguers 11¼ m. +E., Lacombe 13¼ m. E., and Laborel 27 m. E., after which the +road descends to the railway by the valley of the Céans. + +Le Buis. + +LE BUIS, pop. 2000; +_Inns:_ Luxembourg; Commerce; is situated in a hollow on the Ouvèze +surrounded by mountains covered with olive, mulberry, fig, peach, and +cherry trees. Schistose and shingle strata cover some parts; at others +there are calcareous rocks in every form, either in gigantic cliffs or +in countless strata of various thickness and at different angles. To go +to the statue of St. Trophime and to the top of St. Julien, having +crossed the bridge, ascend by the winding road to the valley, right +hand, which continue to the next +58 + +bridge. For the statue cross the bridge and go directly to the right: +for the cliffs, ascend by the back of St. Julien by the path on the +left, just before reaching the bridge. + + +Avignon. + +59 + + +see caption + +sketch plan of avignon. + +1. Palace of the Popes: the small building opposite is the +Consistoire de Musique; by the side of the palace is the church of +Notre-Dame Des Doms, and by the side of the church, on the top of the +hill, the beautiful promenade des Doms; whence a stair leads down to the +Rhone, near 23, the old bridge Bénézet. Below the promenade is, +2, formerly an archbishop’s palace, now a seminary. Below +the Pope’s Palace is B, the Place de l’Hotel de Ville, with the +H. de Ville and theatre. The street C C, extending southward +to the principal station, is called the R. de la Republique or Rue +Petrarque, its original name. Just behind, 3, the Hotel de +Ville is the church of St. Agricol, and a little farther S.W. is the Rue +Calade, with, at 4, the Musée Calvet, and at +5, across the Rue de la Republique, the Musée Requien, +a museum of natural history. Farther east is, 6, St. +Joseph’s College, with all that remains of the Church of the Cordeliers, +where Laura was buried. That large building at the east corner of the +town, 7, is the Hotel-Dieu or hospital; the gate, O, +beside it, is the Porte St. Lazare; while 8 indicates the +road to the cemetery. A short way E. from the Place de l’Hotel de +Ville is, 9, the church of St. Pierre. No. 10, not far +from the station, is the Penitentiary, formerly the Convent of the +Celestins, founded by Clement VII. in 1879; entrance from the Place du +Corps-Saint. No. 13, Convent du St. Sacrement. 14. Chapel +Bénézet on bridge. 15. St. Symphorien. 16. Sacré-Cœur. +17. Prison. 18. Mont-de-Piété. 19. Court-house. +20. Lyceum. 21. Prefecture. 22. Suspension Bridge. +23. Bénézet Bridge. A, Place du Palais. B, Place de +l’Hôtel de Ville. C, Rue de la République. D, Rue Calade. +F, Place du Corps Saint. G, Rue des Lices. H, Place Pie. +J, Vieux Septier. K, Rue du Saule. L, Rue Carréterie. +M, Porte du Rhône. N, Porte de la Ligne. O, Porte St. +Lazarus. Q, Porte L’Imbert. R, Porte St. Michael. +S, Porte St. Roche. T, Porte de l’Oulle. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +461 +76 +AVIGNON, pop. 39,000, surrounded with strong embrasured walls, +garnished with 39 towers, and pierced with 9 gates, is situated on the +Rhône, 2 m. above its junction with the Durance, and 20 m. +N.E. from Nîmes by the railway passing the Pont d’Avignon and +Remoulins. _Hotels:_ *Europe, near the Pont; *Luxembourg; Louvre; +St. Yves, in the centre of the town, near the Place Pie, the great +market-place. Temple Protestant in the R. Dorée, near the +Préfecture. Cabstands at station and in the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, +2 frs. per hour. From the station, a beautiful avenue, the +Cours de la République, leads up to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, with +statue “au brave Crillon,” the friend of Henri IV., “Louis des +Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel de l’infanterie +française,” died at Avignon in 1615. To the right is the road leading up +to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N. D. des Domes, and +the promenade, *“au Rochers des Doms;” which, with the ramparts, compose +the principal sights of Avignon. The concierge of the palace lives just +within the entrance. Fee for party, 1 fr. Opposite gate is the +Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 for a mint. The churches are +closed between 12 and 2. The Musées are open to the public on Sundays +between 12 and 4. + +Avignon Palace. + +The present Palace, commenced by Benedict XII. in 1336, +and finished by Gregory XI. in 1370, is an ugly huge structure, +consisting of plain walls 100 ft. high and 14 thick, strengthened by +long ungainly buttresses. Above the entrance, composed of a low archway, +are the arms of Clement VI.; and higher up, on two oriel turrets, +the balcony from which the Popes blessed the people. Within the gate is +the Cour d’Honneur, a vast quadrangular space between flat walls, +pierced by from 3 to 4 stories of windows, not on the same level nor of +the same size. From the court ascend the Escalier d’Honneur, +a groined staircase, of which the steps were formerly of marble, to +the Salle Consistoriale d’Hiver, with an elegantly-groined roof. Before +this hall was divided into two, it was 52 ft. high, 65½ wide, and 170 +long. From it we enter the Salle d’Armes, with mural paintings by Simone +Memmi of Sienna. Ascending higher the grand staircase, we pass on the +left the small window for the Spies, and then go along a narrow lobby +tunnelled in the wall, to a succession of large bare halls, the Galerie +de Conclave, the Salle des Gardes, the Salle de Reception, and then +enter the Tour St. Jean, containing the Chapelle du Saint-Office, +60 + +or the chapel of the Inquisition, with mural paintings. In the +story immediately below is the chapel of the Popes. From the Tour St. +Jean, after passing through a large hall, we enter an octagonal room, +gradually narrowing towards the centre, till it forms a chimney-tower, +called the Tour Strapade. Some say this was the torture room; but it is +evidently more suited for a kitchen, which in all probability it was. +Adjoining is the Glacière, into whose underground cellars, now built up, +the democrats of 1791 flung the bodies of 60 men and women they had +murdered. From this we enter again the Place d’Honneur by the Tour +Trouillas, in which Rienzi was imprisoned five years, bound to a chain +fixed to the roof of his cell. During the time of the Popes, from 1305 +to 1234, and till 1793, the half of Avignon was occupied by +ecclesiastical edifices, which tolled daily 300 bells, and had among +them a daily succession of religious processions. + +Avignon: Rocher des Doms. Cathedral. + +From the palace the road leads up to the highest part of the town, +the Rocher des +Doms; commanding a magnificent view, and laid out as a public +garden, with in the centre a statue of Jean Althen, who introduced, in +1766, the culture of the “garance,” the _Rubia tinctoria_, now +superseded, for the dyeing of red. From this terrace a stair leads down +to the Rhône near the Bridge Bénézet +(see page 63). In the middle of the river is the Ile de Barthelasse, and +on the other side are the Tour de Philippe le Bel, the town of +Villeneuve, and above it the Fort St. André. On the promenade is the +Cathedral Notre-Dame-des-Doms, 194 feet above the +Rhône, approached by a stair called the Pater, because originally it had +as many steps as there are words in the Lord’s Prayer. This church has +undergone many changes, and belongs to various periods. The portal and +lower part of the tower are of the 10th cent., and are due to +Fulcherius. The nave is two centuries later. The apse was added in 1671. +The most remarkable part of the structure is the cupola, terminating in +an octagonal lantern, and supported on pendentive arches. It bears +traces of frescoes painted in 1672. In the sanctuary is the marble +throne used by the Popes, in the sacristy the Gothic mausoleum of Jean +XXII., and in one of the side chapels the tomb of Benoit XII. In the +third chapel (right hand) is a Madonna in white marble, by Pradier. The +sacristan is generally in the small room next the main entrance. Fee, ½ +fr. for showing the church and the tomb. + +Now return to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. At the foot or south end +a tram-car leaves every ¼ to the Pont d’Avignon station on the other +side of the Rhône, 2 sous; and another to St. Lazare at the +61 + +eastern end of the town near the cemetery, 2 sous. An omnibus starts +every hour from the corner of the theatre for Villeneuve, where it stops +at the east end of the church. Fare both ways, 4 sous. + +Avignon: St. Agricol. Musée Calvet. + +In the “Place” the principal edifice is the Hôtel de +Ville, built in 1862, on the site of the Palais Colonna, 14th +cent, of which all that remains is the handsome belfry called Jacquemard +and his wife, from the two figures which strike the hours. Next the +Hôtel de Ville is the theatre, built in 1847. Behind is the church of +St. +Agricol, 1340, the patron saint of Avignon. To the right on +entering is the tomb of the painter Pierre Mignard, d. 4th April +1725, aged 86, and third chapel on same side is a virgin and child in +wood by Coysevox. To the left of the entrance is an ancient and elegant +marble baptismal font. At the foot of the short street St. Agricol, in +the Rue Calade, is the Oratoire, built in 1730. At No. 65 of the Rue +Calade is the Musée Calvet, containing a valuable +collection of art treasures open to the public on Sundays from 12 to 4, +and a library and reading-room open every day except Sunday. Against the +wall of the inner court is the tomb of the donor of this museum, Claud +François Calvet, d. 25th July 1810, in his 82d year. On the right +is the monument erected by Sir Charles Kelsall in 1823 to Laura de Sade, +dead of smallpox in 1348, and buried in the church of the Cordeliers +(see p. 62). On the other side is the tomb +of the military strategist Folard, a native of Avignon. In the +outer court, and in the rooms and passages on the ground-floor, are +Roman altars, monuments, milestones, torses, amphoræ, and 170 Latin +inscriptions, found in the neighbourhood, but chiefly from Orange and +Vaison (p. 53). Among the sculptures in +relief, one represents a Roman chariot drawn by two horses with their +hoofs shod. There are 27 Greek inscriptions, 3d or 4th cent., from +Venice. The statuary and sculpture of the Middle Ages and the +Renaissance have been gathered principally from the suppressed churches +and convents. The most noticeable are: the mausoleums of Pope +Urbain V., of Cardinals Lagrange and Brancas, and of Marshal +Palice. Within railings are: Cassandra by Pradier, a faun by Brian, +and a bather by Esparcieux, all in the finest white marble. Upstairs is +a valuable collection of Roman glass and bronzes, and 20,000 coins and +medals, including a complete set of the seals and medals of the Popes +during their residence at Avignon, and the seal used by the Inquisition +while here. There are nearly 500 pictures, and a collection of drawings, +including the original sketches of Horace Vernet. Most of the pictures +have the artists’ names affixed. Those +62 + +in the great hall are by Albano, Bassano, Berghem, Bloemen, Bourdon, +Canaletto, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, Châlons, Coypel, Credi, David, +*Eckout (crucifixion), Sasso Ferrati, F. Floris, Gericault, +Girodet, Gros, Holbein, Lomi, Meel, P. and N. Mignard, J. and +P. Parrocel, Poussin, Euysdael, Salvator Rosa, Teuiers jun., Veronese, +Vigée-Lebrun, and Zurbaran. In the small room are the paintings by +Claude-Joseph, Horace and Carle Vernet, with a few by Paul Huet. The +marble busts of Horace and Carle are by Thorwaldsen. In the centre of an +inner room, containing the medals and engravings, is the famous ivory +crucifixion, 27 inches long, of one piece, excepting the arms, +a chef-d’œuvre of the sculptor Guillermin in 1659. It is said that +Canova stood in ecstasy over this delicate achievement in art. +Avignon: Musée Requien. +Continuing down the R. Calade to the other side of the +R. Petrarque or de la République, we have on the right the Museum +of Natural History in the church St. Martial, 15th cent. The greater +part of the specimens were bequeathed by M. Requien, d. 1851, +and of them the most interesting are those connected with the +neighbourhood, such as the flamingo and beaver of the Rhône, and the +fossils from Aix. In the eastern continuation of the R. Calade, at +No. 62 R. des Lices, is the Collége Saint Joseph, containing within its +grounds all that remains (the belfry and piece of the north aisle) of +the church of the Cordeliers; in which Laura was buried. The aisle has +been repaired, and is now used as a chapel. Visitors are freely +admitted. It is to the left of the entrance. Of the tomb there are no +vestiges, having been destroyed along with the church by an infuriated +mob in 1791. On the E. side of the R. Petrarque, by the narrow +R. Prévot, is the church of St. Dedier, 1355, containing, in first +chapel right from entrance, a relief in marble representing Christ +bearing his cross, executed by Francesco in 1481 at the request of King +René. Opposite, over second arch, 36 ft. above the floor, is a stone +pulpit with a sculptured pendant. The grave of St. Bénézet is under a +plain slab in the middle of the nave, in front of the high altar. Near +St. Dedier is the Hôtel Crillon, 17th cent.; and to the east of the +Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Pierre (9 in plan), +1520, with an elaborately-sculptured door and pulpit. The pictures about +the high altar are by N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, and +Simon de Châlons. From the S.E. corner of the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, +the R. des Marchands and its continuation the Rues Saunerie and +Carréterie, lead to the Porte St. Lazare, with, to the right, the town +hospital (7 in plan), having a frontage of 192 yards, built +in the last century on the site of +63 + +the hospital of St. Martha, founded in 1354. Here, outside the +town-walls to the right, then by a broad road to the left, is the +Cemetery. The Protestant division is on the right side of the entrance. +Avignon: J. S. Mill. +In a corner at the end of a short avenue of pine trees is the white +marble monument to John Stuart Mill, b. 20th May 1806, d. 7th +May 1873. In the same grave is interred Harriet Mill, his beloved wife, +who died at Avignon in the Hôtel de l’Europe, Nov. 3, 1858. +A touching epitaph, recounting her virtues, occupies the whole +surface of the top slab. From the Porte St. Lazare, a walk may be +taken between the ramparts and the Rhône down to the bridge built in +1184, partly in the style of the Pont-du-Gard, by the shepherd, saint, +and architect, Bénézet, who before had constructed one +over the Durance at Maupas. This bridge, which stood 100 years, was 2952 +ft. long and 13 wide, on 19 arches, of which four still remain. +On the second arch is the chapel of St. Nicolas, in which the relics of St. Bénézet +were kept till removed to the church of St. Dedier. + +Villeneuve-les-Avignon. + +Avignon to Villeneuve. + +Every ¼, a tram crosses the bridge for the Pont d’Avignon station, +while every hour an omnibus crosses for Villeneuve-les-Avignon, pop. 3100, +2½ m. from the “Place,” or 1¼ m. from the Pont station. Near +the parish church, 14th cent., is the Hospital, containing, in the +chapel to the left, the mausoleum of Innocent VI., under a lofty +elaborately-sculptured canopy, rising in pinnacles to the roof. Upstairs +is the picture gallery, in two rooms. The most remarkable picture +belongs to the 15th or 16th cent., painted on wood, and represents two +subjects, Purgatory and the Judgment Day, apparently by two different +artists. Although stiff, the design is admirable, and all the heads, +even the smallest, are carefully executed. But the gem is the most +charming and bewitching portrait by Mignard of Mme. de Ganges attired as +a nun. She was born at Avignon in 1636, and when only 13 married the +Marquis de Castellane, with whom she frequented the court of Louis XIV., +where she was called La Belle Provençale. After her husband’s death she +married the Marquis de Ganges, with whom she returned to Avignon, where +her sorrows commenced, caused by the conduct of her two brothers-in-law, +the Abbot and the Chevalier de Ganges, whose unlawful passion she +steadfastly resisted. At last the exasperated abbot having made her +drink poison, she threw herself out of the window, and while lying on +the ground in the agony of death, the chevalier pierced her seven times +with his sword. These two monsters were condemned by the parliament to +be +64 + +broken alive on the wheel. The other pictures in the collection by +Mignard are: Jesus before the Doctors, an Annunciation, and a St. Bruno. +Fee, 1 fr., given to the hospital. In the parish church, built in +the 14th cent, by Cardinal Arnaud de Via, there is nothing +extraordinary. Near it are the ruins of the +Chartreuse-du-Val-de-Bénédiction, and on an eminence Fort André, now +inhabited as a walled village. The omnibus for Avignon starts every hour +at the hour, from the apsidal end of the parish church of +Villeneuve. + +Avignon is very much exposed to different winds, especially the +Mistral, yet perhaps they are necessary, for, according to the adage, +“Avenio ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa,” the odours +from the drains in some of the streets being very offensive. + +Till July 26, 1793, Avignon belonged to the Papal See, when it was +forcibly taken possession of by the Republican army under General +Cartaux, who owed his victory to the skill of his captain of artillery, +the young commandant Napoleon, who afterwards remained nearly a month in +this town for the establishment of his health, in No. 65 Rue Calade, +opposite the Musée Calvet, where he wrote “Le Souper de Beaucaire.” + + +Avignon to Nîmes. + +Avignon to Nîmes. + +Avignon is 1½ hour or 15½ miles N.E. from Nîmes by rail, starting +from the Pont-d’Avignon station on the west side of the Rhône. Those +wishing to visit the Pont-du-Gard on the way should take their tickets +for the Pont-du-Gard station, changing carriages at Remoulins. If with +luggage, it is better to take the tickets only to Remoulins; where, +without loss of time on arriving, take other tickets to the +Pont-du-Gard, leaving the luggage behind. Time will generally be saved +by returning from the Pont to Remoulins on foot, about 3 m. by the +road, but 5 m. by the rail. See Map, +p. 56. For Nîmes see p. 101, and for the Pont-du-Gard see p. 104. Consult the “Indicateur des +Chemins de Fer du Lyon” before starting. + + +L’Isle. Fontaine de Vaucluse. + +Avignon to Vaucluse by L’Isle. + +From Avignon the Fontaine de Vaucluse is 18 m. eastward, by the +village of Isle, on the line to Cavaillon. L’Isle, pop. 7000, a village on the Sorgues, +with decorated church rebuilt in the 17th cent. Handsome reredos over +high altar and several good paintings. The Tour d’Argent dates from the +11th cent. At the station the omnibuses of the Isle hotels, Petrarque et +Laure and St. Martin, await passengers and take them to Vaucluse and +back for 4 frs. each. From the village of Vaucluse, pop. 600, take for the fountain the road +on +65 + +the right bank of stream, but for the house and garden of Petrarch take +the left side, crossing the bridge. On the left side, against a cliff +near the cloth mill, is a small house on the site of Petrarch’s, of +which it is a copy. Before it, is still a piece of what was Petrarch’s +garden. On the other side of the Sorgue is a cigar-paper mill. There is +a little hotel at Vaucluse, the Hôtel Petrarch et Laure. Under a +stupendous cliff 1148 feet high is the source of the river Sorgue, the +placid Fontaine de Vaucluse about 30 yards in +diameter— “a mirror of blue-black water, so pure, so still, +that where it laps the pebbles you can scarcely say where air begins and +water ends.” During floods, however, the cavern being no longer able to +contain the increased volume, the water rushes over in a cascade into +the bed below. The poet’s modest house stood at the foot of the rock +crowned by the ruins of the castle in which lived his friend Cardinal +Philippe de Cabasole. Petrarch himself gives the following description +of the site:— “On one side my garden is bounded by a deep river; +on another by a rugged mountain, a barrier against the noon-day +heats, and which never refuses, not even at mid-day, to lend me its +friendly shade; but the sweet air reaches me through all obstacles. In +the distance a surly wall makes me inaccessible to both man and beast. +Figs, grapes, walnuts, almonds—these are my delights. My table is +also graced with the fish that abound in my river; and it is one of my +greatest pleasures to watch the fishermen draw their nets, and to draw +them myself. All about me is changed. I once used to dress myself +with care; now you would believe me a labourer or a shepherd. My house +resembles that of Fabius or Cato. I have but a valet and a dog. The +house of my servant adjoins my own. I call him when I want him, and +when I have no more need of him he returns home.” + +Avignon: Petrarch. + +On the 6th of April 1327 Francesco Petrarca saw in a church of +Avignon Laura the daughter of Audibert de Noves, for whom he conceived a +romantic but hopeless attachment. Incessantly haunted with the beautiful +vision of the fair Laura, he visited in succession the south of France, +Paris, and the Netherlands, and after an exile of eight months returned +to bury himself in the solitude of Vaucluse. + +Vehicles are also hired at Avignon. Fare to Vaucluse and back, 12 to +18 frs.; time, 8 hours. Also for the Pont du Gard, same price. + +20½ m. from Avignon by rail is Cavaillon +(p. 66), whence a branch line extends 20 m. E. to Apt, another +line 27 m. S.E. to Pertuis on the Marseilles and Grenoble line, and +another 22½ m. S. to Miramas +(p. 76), between Arles and Marseilles. (See map, +p. 66.) + +66 + + +Apt. + +AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE BY APT. + + +40½ m. E. by rail from Avignon, by Cavaillon, is Apt, pop. 7000, on the torrent Calavon, in a sheltered +hollow surrounded by mountains and calcareous cliffs. _Hotels:_ The +*Louvre; des Alpes. The principal industries are agriculture, pottery, +and the making of preserved fruits. Fruit to be glazed with sugar, as +well as that on which the sugar is to be crystallised, is allowed to +soak from 2 to 8 months in a strong solution of white sugar, in +uncovered “terrines,” like small basins. Fruits with thick rinds, such +as oranges, are pricked before being immersed. The best pottery (Bernard +Croix) is near the station, to the left on descending the hill. The +clay, gray and reddish, is in thick beds close to the establishment, and +resembles that of Vallauris, near Cannes, in its power of resisting +fire, and is therefore principally used for the manufacture of kitchen +pottery. M. Croix has added artistic pottery and dinner and tea +services, of which the prices are extremely low. Opposite is the +establishment of L. A. Esbérard, who confines himself almost +exclusively to kitchen pottery. + +The parish church of St. Anne dates from the 11th cent. To the left on +entering is the chapel of St. Anne, under a low octagonal domed tower. +Below the altar is a crypt, 10th cent., said to contain the bones of the +mother of Mary. Round about the town are pleasant walks, of which many +are shaded with Oriental plane trees. Coach daily to Manosque +(_Hotel:_ Eymon), 26 m. E., passing Céreste, 5¼ m. E., +and Reillanne, on the top of a hill, 5 m. farther. Manosque is on +the rail between Marseilles and Grenoble. (See maps, pages 26 and 66.) + +Cavaillon to Miramas, 22½ m. S. (see +map, p. 66), across a fertile plain, with +vineyards and groves of olive, almond, and apricot trees. Cavaillon (pop. 8000). +_Inns:_ Parrocel; Teston. Omnibus at station. Cavaillon is a +pleasant town, intersected by avenues, and situated on the Durance at +the base of great limestone cliffs. It possesses an ancient triumphal +arch and a cathedral dating from the 12th and 13th cents., with a +cloister of the 12th. Excellent melons are grown in the neighbourhood. +4¼ m. S. from Cavaillon is Orgon (pop. 3000. _Inns:_ Paris; Poste), on the +Durance. 11 m. farther S. is Salon (pop. 7100. _Inns:_ Poste; Croix de +Malte), on the canal Craponne. This town, dealing largely in first-class +olive oil, has still remnants of its old ramparts: a church, St. +Michel, of the 13th cent., another, St. Laurent, of the 14th, and a +castle of the same date. In the town is a fountain to the memory of Adam +de Craponne, the engineer of the canal. (For Miramas, see p. 75.) + +Tarascon. Martha’s Tomb. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +474 +63 +TARASCON, pop. 11,000. +_Hotels:_ At the foot of the station stairs, the Luxembourg; in the +town, the Empereurs. Junction with branch to Nîmes, 17 m. W., and +31 m. farther Montpellier. Below the station is a large hospital +for old men and orphans, founded in 1761 by Clerc Molière. Tarascon is +an unimportant town on the Rhône, opposite Beaucaire, and connected with +it by a chain bridge +67 + +1450 feet long. In the church of St. Martha, built in the 12th cent., is +an ancient crypt, just under the spire, with the tomb of Martha, the sister of +Lazarus, whose mortal remains are said to repose here under the +peaceful-looking marble effigy which marks the spot. The tradition of +the place says she had come with her maid from Aix, at the request of +the inhabitants, to kill a terrible dragon with a body as thick as a +bull’s, and having succeeded, the inhabitants, out of gratitude to her, +after her death buried her in this place. A few steps from the +church, by the side of the river, rises the massive strong square +castle, begun in 1400 and finished by the Roi René, now used as a +prison. On the opposite side of the river, overlooking Beaucaire, are +the more picturesque ruins of the castle of Montmorency, whose adjoining +garden forms one of the many promenades of the people of Beaucaire. +Beaucaire is a poor town with poor houses. The formerly famous fair, +commencing on July 1, has become now of little importance. It is held in +the broad avenue between the castle and the Rhône. + + +THE MOUTHS OF THE RHONE. + + +opp. 66 +_For continuation northwards see map, page +56._ +[West] _For continuation see map, page 107._ + +see caption +_For continuation eastwards see map, page 123._ + + +St. Remy. Les Baux. + +9½ m. east from Tarascon by rail is St. Remy, pop. 6800. _Inn:_ Hôtel du Cheval +Blanc, a comfortable house, where carriages can be hired for Les +Baux, 6 m. S.W., 10 frs. Also for Arles by Les Baux and +Mont-Majour, 19 m. distant, 24 frs. A mile from the Hôtel +Cheval Blanc, by the high road, stood the ancient Glanum, one of the +commercial stations of the Phœnician traders from Marseilles, before it +fell into the possession of the Romans, who have left here two +remarkable monuments, of which the more perfect consists of an open +square tower standing on a massive pedestal, and surmounted by a +peristyle of ten columns surrounding two statues representing the +parents of Sextus and Marius, of the family of the Julii, by whom it was +erected. It is 50 ft. high; the faces of the statues look to the north. +The sculpture on the north side of the pedestal represents a cavalry +fight; the south, “sacrificing;” the west, a combat between +infantry; and the east, which is the most dilapidated, “Victory crowning +a wounded soldier.” Alongside stands a triumphal arch, of which the most +perfect portions are the coffered panellings of the soffit. + +6 m. S.W. from St. Remy is Les Baux, the ancient Castrum de Baucis, pop. 100. +_Inn:_ Monte Carlo. The castle town of Les Baux, commenced in 485, +occupies a naked mountain of yellow sandstone, worn away by nature into +bastions and buttresses, and coigns of vantage, sculptured by ancient +art into palaces and chapels, battlements and dungeons. Now art and +nature are confounded in one ruin. Blocks of masonry lie cheek-by-jowl +with masses of the rough-hewn +68 + +rock; fallen cavern vaults are heaped round fragments of fan-shaped +spandrel and clustered column shaft; the doors and windows of old +pleasure rooms are hung with ivy and wild fig tapestry; while winding +staircases start midway upon the cliff and lead to vacancy. High +overhead, suspended in mid-air, hang chambers—lady’s bower or +poet’s singing room—now inaccessible, the haunt of hawks and +swallows. Within this rocky honeycomb— “cette ville en monolithe,” +as it has been aptly called, for it is literally scooped out of one +mountain block—live a few poor people, foddering their wretched +goats at carved piscina and stately sideboards, erecting their +mud-beplastered hovels in the halls of feudal princes. From Les Baux +road to Fontvieille, 7 m.; whence rail to Mont-Majour and Arles +(see map, page 66). + +Arles. + + +opp. 68 +[East] + +plan of Arles +[West] +_Scale of ¼ Mile_ + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +483 +54 +ARLES, pop. 26,000. +_Hotels:_ Nord; Forum; near each other in the Place du Forum. Arles +is situated on the Rhône, near the Camargue, in a marshy place, as its +original name, Arelas, from the Celtic words, “Ar lach,” damp place, +indicates. It is said to have been founded 900 years before Marseilles, +700 years before Rome, and 1500 before the birth of Christ. The ramparts +and walls rising from the public gardens and the Boulevard des Aliscamps +are chiefly the work of the Emperor Constantine, who came to Arles with +his family and mother, Saint Helena. He built by the side of the Rhône a +superb palace, called afterwards “de la Trouille,” because opposite a +ferry-boat, which was pulled or dragged from one side of the river to +the other. Of this palace little more remains than the attached tower La +Trouille, constructed of alternate layers of brick and stone. On the 7th +August 312 his wife Faustina presented him with a son, +Constantine II., who succeeded his father in May 357. He commenced +the Forum, but was shortly after killed in battle defending himself +against his brother Constance, who usurped the throne and finished the +Forum. All that remains of this formerly splendid edifice are the two +Corinthian columns, with part of the pediment encrusted into the wall of +the Hôtel du Nord. It occupied the site of the Place du Forum, called +also the Place des Hommes, because labourers and men-servants used to be +hired in this “Place.” + +In the Place de la République is the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1675 on +the site of the Roman baths constructed by the Emperor Augustus. The +spacious vaults under the Hôtel du Nord formed probably a part of these +baths, although in later times they seem to have been used as an +ossuary. + +Almost adjoining the Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Anne, +69 + +now the Archæological Museum, with a collection of inscriptions, +sarcophagi, urns, statues, columns, friezes, altars, and tombstones, +those of the Pagans having the letters D.M., _Diis manibus_. Also +some of the long lead pipes, with the name of the plumber, “C. Canthius +Porthinus fac.,” which helped to bring water from the fountain at the +foot of the hill on which Baux stands. At the inner end, right hand, is +a torse of Mithras of white Pharos marble, 3 ft. 2 inches high, found in +1598 on the site of the Roman Circus. A serpent is coiled round the +body, and between the coils are the signs of the Zodiac. In the opposite +corner is an altar in Carrara marble to the good goddess “Bonae-Deae,” +found under the church La Major. On the front face is a garland of oak +leaves and acorns, and 7 inches distant from each other two human ears. +Near it is a good head of Augustus, and a mutilated one of Diana. About +the centre of the room is a recumbent figure of Silenus, with a wine +skin under his arm. + +In the centre of the “Place” is the monolith obelisk, 49 ft. high, +hewn by the Romans from the quarries of Esterel. It stood originally in +the Circus at the S.W. corner of the town; but of it no vestiges +remain. + +Arles: St. Trophime. + +Opposite St. Anne is the cathedral of St. Trophime, consecrated on the +17th May 626, and rebuilt in the 9th cent. The portal, erected in 1221, +consists of a semicircular arch resting on six columns, behind which are +statues of apostles and saints separated by pilasters. In the tympanum +is Christ, the judge of the world, with the symbols of the Evangelists. +In the interior the door on the S. side of the choir leads out to the +cloister, of which the N. side belongs to the 9th, the south to the +16th, the east to the 13th, and the west to the 14th cent. + +Passing from the cloister into the street, and turning to the left, +we arrive at the Theatre, commenced during the dominion of the Greeks, +and finished before the Christian era. In the centre of this grand ruin, +originally 335 ft. in its greatest diameter, stand two Corinthian +columns 30 ft. high, and the base of other two, which formed part of the +proscenium. Opposite them is the semicircular space for the spectators, +with still many of the stone seats. The Venus of Arles, one of the most +valuable statues in the Louvre, was found here. The theatre is open to +the public, but the keeper endeavours to attach himself to +strangers. + +Arles: Amphitheatre. + +A short way N.E. is the far grander and more imposing Amphitheatre +or Les Arènes, said to have been commenced by the father of Tiberius +Nero, b.c. 46. It is elliptic, 459 ft. +long and 132 wide, surrounded by a double wall 60 ft. high, each with +two stages of +70 + +arches, and in each stage 60 arches. From around the arena rise 43 tiers +of stone seats, capable of containing 23,438 spectators. The stone steps +leading up to them were 1½ ft. high and 2 ft. 3 inches long. There were +besides above 150 rooms for the gladiators and men connected with the +theatre, and 100 dens for wild beasts. The three towers were added by +the Saracens in the 8th cent. Bull-fights are given in the building, +when a multitude of spectators, as in the time of the Romans, fill the +galleries. A splendid view of the amphitheatre, the city, and of +the commencement of the delta of the Rhône, is had from the western +tower. The entrance into the amphitheatre is by the north gate. The +doorkeeper lives in a house a little to the left of the gate. This grand +ruin should, if possible, be visited by moonlight; yet during the day +the beautiful masonry is more easily examined. It is the great sight in +Arles, and it is better to omit all the others than to do this one +hurriedly. + +The Camargue or Delta of the Rhône, commencing at the outskirts of +Arles, is a triangular plain of 180,000 acres extending to the +Mediterranean, bounded on the west by the Petit Rhône, and on the east +by the Grand Rhône. It contains small villages and large farms, with +extensive vineyards and grazing ground for cattle, sheep, and horses. It +is best visited by the steamboat sailing between Arles and Port St. Louis on the +mouth of the great Rhône. (See p. 72, and map, +p. 66.) + +Arles: Elysei Campi. Trophimus. + +S.E. above the Promenade is the church of St. Cesaire, 9th cent., on +the site of a temple of Jupiter. From this to go to Alyscamps, walk down +the Boulevard Alyscamps to the canal Craponne, where turn to the left. +The first ruin passed is an old entrance into what was the domain of the +monastery of St. Cesaire. The Avenue of Alyscamps is lined on each side +by 33 large stone coffins with lids, and 120 smaller coffins without +lids. This, the Elysei +Campi, an ancient Roman cemetery, is now divested of all its +valuables and statues, of which a few are in the museum. As +J. C.Himself is said to have appeared during the consecration of +the cemetery, it was believed that at the resurrection it would be +especially favoured by Him; hence the efforts made by so many to bury +their friends here. It is said that up to the 12th cent. coffins with +their dead, and money for the funeral expenses, floated down the Rhône, +of their own accord, to be buried in this privileged spot. At the end of +the avenue is the church of St. Honorat, on the site of the chapel +founded by Trophimus the Ephesian, one of St. Paul’s +converts, who was sent to Arles to preach the gospel and to put an end +to human sacrifices. Among the first things he is +71 + +said to have done was to consecrate the Alyscamps and transform it thus +from a heathen into a Christian burial-place, and add to it a little +chapel. An old Arles writer alleges on his own authority that Trophimus +dedicated this chapel to Mary, who was then alive. After labouring 36 +years in this diocese he died on the 29th of November 94, and was buried +in the little chapel he himself had built. Among the successors of +Trophimus were Ambrose in 160, who remained here 20 years; Augustine in +220, who died 10 years afterwards; Jerome in 230, who also died 10 years +afterwards; Marcien in 252, the originator of the Novatien sect; and St. +Cyprien in 253. Saint Virgil, one of the successors, founded in 601 the +church of St. Honorat beside the chapel of Trophimus. The present church +dates only from the 12th to the 14th cent. The best and oldest part, +excepting the foundations, is the apsidal termination, which is +semicircular, with 4 pilasters and a small window in the centre to give +light to the officiating priest. Over it rises a neat octagonal belfry +in two arcaded stages. Under the chancel is a small crypt. The keeper +calls a small chapel at the left hand corner of the chancel, the chapel +of Trophimus. + +Arles: Picture Gallery. + +The Picture +Gallery, or the Musée Reattu, is at No. 11 R. Grand Prieure, +near the Tour Trouille. The house and pictures were bequeathed to the +town by a cousin of the painter Reattu, b. at Arles 1760, d. 1833. +On picture 119 are portraits of himself, wife, and two cousins. Next the +picture gallery is the school of design. + +Branch line from Arles to Fontvieille, 7 m. E., passing +Mont-Majour 4 m. E. Fontvieille is 7 m. S.W. from Les +Baux by a good road. Junction at Arles with line to Aigues-Mortes, +36 m. S.W., and to Montpellier, 58 m. S.W.; Cette is +17 m. farther. (See map, p. 66.) + +Mont-Majour. + +4 m. eastwards by rail from Arles are the ruins of the castle and +abbey of Mont-Majour, all in a good state of +preservation, excepting the domestic buildings, constructed in 1786. The +concierge lives in a house near the station. Fee, 1 fr. He +generally shows first the church, 11th cent., and the spacious crypt +below, 9th cent. Adjoining the church are the cloisters, 11th cent., of +the same kind as those of St. Trophime, but more interesting and more +perfect, and containing the tombs of some of the counts of Anjou. Next +is the beautiful square dungeon tower, nearly as perfect as when erected +in 1374. It is 262 ft. high, is ascended by 137 steps, and commands a +wide prospect. From this, a stair leads down the face of the hill +to the chapel and cell of St. Trophimus, principally hewn in the soft +limestone cliff. Standing apart at the base of the hill is St. Croix, +dedicated in 1019, +72 + +consisting of four semicircular sides, crowned with semidomes projecting +from a square tower crowned with a kind of pyramid spire. At Fontvieille +(Hôtel du Commerce) are important quarries of soft calcareous +sandstone. + +Arles to Port Saint Louis, at the +mouth of the Great Rhône, 25 m. S. by steamer on the Great Rhône. +Time, 5 hrs. Fare, 2 frs. Railway unfinished (see map, p. 66). The steamboat passes by an important part +of the Camargue with large vineyards, rendered very fertile by +irrigation, the water being forced up from the river by steam engines. +Cattle, sheep, and horses are reared on the tufts of coarse grass which +cover the more arid portions. The population is so sparse that not a +village is seen during the whole journey. (See also p. 70.) + +Port Saint Louis. + +Port Saint +Louis (Hôtel Saint Louis), 6½ m. W. from Port Bouc, +consists of a straggling village between the Rhône and the basin of the +canal constructed to enable vessels to avoid the bar of the Rhône. This +canal is 2½ m. long, 196 ft. wide, and 22 ft. deep. To understand +the geography of this desolate flat region of land and water, exposed to +every wind, it is necessary to ascend the “tour Saint Louis,” whence the +plain, intersected by the Rhône and numerous canals, appears literally +like a map. The only villages seen in the vast expanse are Fos, on a +hill, and near it the Port Bouc. + +Great expense has been incurred to make Port St. Louis a convenient +place for shipping, and attract to it some of the commerce from +Marseilles. + +23 m. S.W. from Arles, and separated from Port St. Louis by the great +Etang Valcarès, is the port called Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, or +simply Les Saintes. The parish church, 12th cent., surrounded by +fortifications, contains the tombs of the Maries and some good +sculpture. + +For Arles to Port Bouc, 29 m. S., see +p. 76. The steamer sails from the S.W. corner of Arles (see map, page 66). + +St. Gilles. Lunel. + +11¼ m. W. by rail from Arles is St. Gilles, pop. 7000. Hôtel du Cheval-Blanc. +A poor and ancient town on the canal of Aigues-Mortes, near the +Petit Rhône. The abbey church, founded in 1116, is considered a good +specimen of Byzantine architecture. The façade consists of a bald wall +with a plain tower on each side. Between these towers are three +semicircular recessed portals, below an entablature resting on two +single and two double columns. The capitals are Corinthian, but the +pedestals (considerably effaced) consist of lions and grotesque animals +in uncouth positions. Behind them, on the piers of the arches of the +portals, stand in bold relief statues of apostles and saints, separated +from each other by pilasters. The interior, consisting of a nave and two +aisles, is 290 ft. long, 88 wide, and 62 high. In the N. aisle a stair +of 33 steps leads down to the lower church, with semicircular arches on +short massive piers. From the centre 7 more steps descend to the tomb of +St. Gilles. All the characteristics of this church are equally well +represented in St. Trophime of Arles. + +16¾ m. farther W., or 28 m. from Arles by rail, is Lunel, pop. +73 + +7300. _Inns:_ Palais; Nord; Tapis-verd; none good. A town of +narrow streets, with a park and promenade by the side of the canal. The +church is constructed after the pattern of those of Carcassonne and +Perpignan. On the surrounding plain an inferior wine is grown. The +first-class vineyards, producing the generous white wines from 17° to +18°, are all on the neighbouring gravelly eminences. + +Aigues-Mortes. + +8 m. S. by +rail from Lunel is the more interesting town of AIGUES-MORTES, “stagnant waters,” pop. +4300, 4 m. from the Mediterranean, and 4 ft. above it, and +connected with it by a navigable canal. _Inn:_ Saint Louis. It is +of great historical interest, and is surrounded by the most perfect old +embrasured wall in France, built in the form of a parallelogram, 596 +yds. long by 149 yds. broad. It is 36 ft. high, and is flanked by 15 +towers. On the western side rises the famous round tower of Constance, +96 ft. high and 72 in diameter, containing two vaulted superimposed +circular chambers, used by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. as prisons for their +Protestant subjects of both sexes, who here suffered such cruelties that +the Dutch and Swiss Governments were roused to interfere in their +behalf, and even Frederic the Great is said to have interceded for them, +but in vain. From the platform at the top of this tower is the highly +interesting view of the flat country at the mouth of the Rhône, whence +the traveller may judge for himself whether the sea has, or has not, +receded from the town since the time of Saint Louis—we think not. +Both the tower of Constance and the walls are the work of Saint Louis, +who had a predilection for Aigues-Mortes, as he considered it the most +suitable place in his kingdom from which to embark for Palestine. On +25th August 1248, after having heard mass in the church +Notre-Dame-des-Sablons (fronting his statue), he and his Queen +Marguerite sailed from Aigues-Mortes on their first expedition to +Palestine. On the 3d of July 1270 he again sailed from the same place; +and on that same year, on the anniversary day of his first expedition, +the 25th of August, he perished among the ruins of Carthage. 4 m. +S. from Aigues-Mortes by omnibus, or steamer by the canal, is the +bathing station of Port-Grau-du-Roi. _Inns:_ Pommier; Dubois (see +map, page 66). + +49 m. N. from Lunel by rail is Vigan. (See page +105.) + +96½ m. W. from Marseilles, 43 m. W. from Arles, 31 m. S.W. from +Nîmes, and 15 m. S.W. from Lunel, is + +Montpellier. + +MONTPELLIER, on +the sides and summit of an eminence 145 ft. above the sea and +7 miles from it. Pop. 56,000. _Hotels:_ H. Nevet, the +best and most expensive, at the commencement of the Esplanade. On the +same side, only a little farther up, is a block of handsome buildings +containing the Public Library, closed on Sundays and Thursdays, and the +Picture Gallery or Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays. Adjoining +is the Lycée. + +In the Place de la Comédie, near the Esplanade, is the H. du Midi, +the next best hotel. In the Grande Rue, the H. Cheval Blanc, +frequented by commercial men. Opposite the station is the H. de la +Gare. In the fine broad street, the Rue Maguelone, leading from the +74 + +station to the Place de la Comédie, is the H. Maguelone, second +class. Their omnibuses await passengers. + +Temple Protestant near station, in the Rue Maguelone. Telegraph Office +in the Boulevard de la Comédie. Post in the Boulevard Jeu-de-Paume. From +the Esplanade omnibus runs to Castelnau. From near the Place de la +Comédie coach to Mauguio. From the Boulevard de Blanquerie, below the +prison, coach to Claret and St. Hippolyte. (See map, +p. 66.) + +Montpellier: Botanic Gardens. + +The most modern part of the town is the Rue Maguelone, leading from the +station to the Esplanade, a delightful promenade bounded by the +citadel. At the N.W. angle of the Esplanade a stair leads down to a line +of boulevards, passing up by the “Hôpital Général” to the Botanic +Gardens, the earliest institution of this kind in France, +founded in the reign of Henri IV., and for some years under the +direction of the famous botanist De Candolle. It contains an area of 9 +acres, divided into three parts: at the N. end is a nursery; at the S., +in a hollow, surrounded by trees, the botanical part; and between these +two divisions the arboretum. Opposite the Botanic Gardens is the once +famous École de médecine, said to have been founded by Arab +physicians under the patronage of the Counts of Montpellier. It now +occupies the old bishops’ palace, built in the 14th cent., with +additions in the 17th. At the entrance are bronze statues of Barthez, +1734-1806, and La Peyronie, 1678-1747. Within the entrance are busts of +the most celebrated professors and divines connected with the college +and the church of Montpellier. In the same building are also valuable +anatomical and pathological collections, and a library with 55,000 vols. +Adjoining is the Cathedral of St. Pierre, 14th and 15th cents., +but the choir is recent, though in the same style. White marble statue +of Mary and child by Canova. + +Overlooking the Botanic Gardens is the beautiful promenade, the Place du +Peyrou, on an eminence at the western side of the town. In cold weather +invalids and nurses with their children frequent the lower terrace of +this “Place,” the promenade Basse du Midi. At the western end of the +Peyrou is the Château d’Eau, a hexagonal Corinthian building, which +receives and distributes through the town the water brought from the +fontaine de St. Clement, 5½ m. from Montpellier. The aqueduct, +which conveys the water across the valley from the opposite hill, +consists of two tiers of arches 70 ft. high and 2896 ft. long. The gate +at the end of the promenade was erected to commemorate the victories of +Louis XIV. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, with statues of +Cambacérès and Cardinal Fleury. Eastwards, by crooked streets, are the +Mairie and the markets. + +Montpellier: Musée Fabre. + +A short way north from the Hôtel Nevet, by the Rues Ste. Foi and also on +the Esplanade, is a handsome modern edifice, comprising the Musée Fabre, the +Bibliothèque publique with 65,000 vols., and the “Collection de la +Société archéologique.” The Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays and +feast days, contains, among many works of inferior merit, some good +pictures by great artists, such as Berghem, +75 + +Fra Bartolommeo, P. C. Champaigne, Cuyp, L. David, G. Dow, Van +Dyck, Ghirlandajo, Girodet, Granet, Greuze, Metsu, Palma, P.Veronese, +Porbus, P. Potter, Poussin, Samuel Reynolds, Salvator Rosa, Rubens, +Ruysdael, Andrea del Sarto, D. Teniers, Terburg, Titian, and Zarg. +The library contains some curious MSS. connected with, the Stuarts, +which belonged to Prince Charles Edward. + +Montpellier produces a lovely coloured wine with good bouquet, called +St. Georges d’Orgues. The manufacture of verdigris, the preparation of +preserved fruits, dye works, chemical works, and distilleries, are the +principal industries. + +From the railway station, opposite the Hôtel de Nevet, a line +extends through the lagoon Pérols, covering a surface of 3000 acres, and +yielding annually 2000 tons of salt, to the port of Palavas, 5 m. +south (pop. 1000), with a beautiful beach. At the Palavas terminus is +the Casino hotel, and on the Canal the Hôtel des Bains and the +Restaurant Parisien. A cabine (bathing-house), including costume +and linen, costs 1 fr. Leave the train at the Plage station. +3 m. from Montpellier, in the retired valley of the Mosson, is the +mineral water establishment of Foncaude. Water saline, unctuous, and +sedative. Good for indigestion and nervous disorders. 12½ m. north +from Montpellier is the Pic du Loup, rising from the village St. Mathieu +(pop. 500) to the height of 680 ft., commanding an extensive view, and +having on the top a chapel visited by pilgrims. + +From Montpellier a line extends 43½ m. W. to Faugères on the line from +Beziers to Capdenac by Rodez. (See map, +page 27.) + +Frontignan. Cette. + +109½ m. from Marseilles and 4½ from Cette is Frontignan, pop. 3000. Possessing 570 acres of +vineyards producing rich amber-coloured, luscious, and spirituous wines, +made principally from the clairette and picardan grapes. The +neighbouring marshes yield annually about 50,000 tons of salt. + +114 m. from Marseilles is Cette, pop. 29,000. At this point the Chemins de Fer +de Paris à Lyon system joins the Chemins de Fer du Midi, and +consequently carriages are often changed here. For Cette to Toulouse and +Bordeaux, see Table “Bordeaux à Cette” in the “Indicateur des Chemins de +Fer du Midi.” Cette is 271 m. east from Pau, 266 from Bordeaux, and +84 from Perpignan. Omnibuses and coaches await passengers. +_Hotels:_ Barrillon; Grand Galion; Bains; Souche. Cette makes a +pleasant halting-place. The best walk is to the top of Mt. Setius, 590 +ft. Ascend by the Rue d’Esplanade, and when at the highest part of the +Public Gardens take the road to the right. The view is magnificent. In +front is the Mediterranean, and behind Lake Thau with its villages. At +the base of the mountain is Cette, and beyond Frontignan. The Port of +Cette is protected by a breakwater 548 yds. long, which encloses a +harbour of 210 acres, furnished with two jetties; the western, +constructed by Vauban, is 656 yds. long, and the eastern 548 yds. This +busy port, besides having an extensive carrying trade, has a large wine +manufactory, where above 100,000 pipes of imitations of all the +well-known wines are made annually, by mixing different wines with each +other. + +76 + + +From the first bridge over the canal (not including the railway bridge) +a small steamer starts three times daily for Balaruc and Meze, on +Lake Thau. Meze, like Cette, is entirely devoted to the wine trade. +Balaruc has a bathing establishment, supplied by intensely saline +springs, resembling strong sea-water, temperature 125° Fahr. +A quart contains 106 grains of chloride of sodium, 13½ of the +chloride of magnesia, and a fraction of the chloride of copper, 15 +grains of the sulphate, and 13½ of the bicarbonate of lime. Pension, 8 +to 9 fr., and the bath treatment 4½ fr. additional. The Canal du +Midi enters Lake Thau at Les Onglous, 11 m. W. from Cette. (See +map, page 27.) + +Miramas. Port Bouc. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +503 +34 +MIRAMAS, pop. 900, south +from the station at the head of the Étang Chamas. At the station there +are a small inn and a large plantation of almond trees, which, when in +flower, exhale a delightful perfume. Passengers to Avignon by Cavaillon +and L’Isle change carriages here (p. 65). Also for Port Bouc, 16¼ m. +south. + +MIRAMAS TO PORT BOUC. + +Miramas to Port Bouc by rail through a flat plain (see map, p. 66). The two most important towns passed on +the way are: Istres, +6¼ m. from Miramas station and 10 N. from Port Bouc, pop. 4000, +founded in the 8th cent. on Lake Olivier, and possessing still part of +its ancient ramparts. The principal industry is the manufacture of salt +and of the carbonate of soda. 13¼ m. from Miramas is Fos (Fossae Marianae), pop. 1100, on a hill +crowned with the ruins of a castle, 14th cent. +At the foot of the hill, by the side of the Arles canal, are large tanks +for the manufacture of salt. From Fos, other 3 miles south by rail, +or 16¼ miles altogether from the Miramas railway station, or 29 miles S. +from Arles by the canal, is Port Bouc, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ near the +stations of the railway and the canal steamer, the Hôtel du Commerce; +near the jetty, the Hôtel du Nord. Port Bouc, on the Étang Caroute, near +the entrance to the great lake, the Étang de Berre, is an important +fishing-station with a large and well-protected harbour. At the end of +the jetty is a fixed light, seen within a radius of 10 m. At the +other side of the entrance is Fort Bouc with a massive square tower in +the centre and another lighthouse. About 7 miles west from Port +Bouc by the coast road is the Port of St. +Louis, page 72. (For Port Bouc to Martigues and +Marseilles, see p. 118.) + +Port Bouc to +Arles, 29 m. S. by the canal steamboat; time, 5 hrs; fare, +3 frs. The canal is 62 ft. wide and 8 deep. The embankments are +very solid, and along a great part of them extends the railway between +Arles and Saint Louis. The only town the canal passes is Fos, about +½ m. E. The Miramas railway passes it on the other side. +Passengers drop into the steamer from the farmhouses. The steamer moors +at the S.W. corner of Arles. (See p. 72, and map +p. 66.) + +Saint Chamas. Rognac. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +506½ +30½ +SAINT CHAMAS (Sanctus +Amantius), pop. 3000, about ½ m. +77 + +from the station. It is situated on the N. end of the Étang de Berre, +and on both sides of a short narrow ridge of soft sandstone pierced with +excavations. The Government have one of their most important powder +manufactories in this place. Hardly ½ m. E. from the Hôtel de Ville +is the Flavian Bridge, built by the Romans, across the stream Touloubre, +with at each end a kind of triumphal arch of 12 ft. span and about 22 +ft. high. At each of the four corners is a grooved Corinthian pilaster +surmounted by a frieze and a projecting dentilled cornice. On the top at +each end stands a lion; the two on the east arch are apparently ready to +spring eastward, and the other two westward. The bridge is in a state of +perfect repair, but the sculpture and inscription on the two arches over +the entrances are slightly effaced. The road to it is by the Hôtel de +Ville and the parish church with a rudely sculptured “Pieta” over the +portal. The bridge is to the E. of St. Chamas, and is well seen from the +railway, especially when crossing the viaduct of 49 interlaced arches, +which carry the rail over the little valley of the Touloubre. 8½ m. +E. from St. Chamas is Berre station. The town, pop. 2100, is directly +south, on Lake +Berre, a sheet of water 14 m. long and 38 in +circumference. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +519½ +17½ +ROGNAC, pop. 900. Junction +with rail to Aix, 16½ m. E., passing under the Roquefavour aqueduct, 7½ m. +E. The canal, which brings 200 cubic ft. of water per second from +the Durance to Marseilles and the neighbouring plain, commences opposite +Pertuis, directly north from +Marseilles. It is 94 m. long, of which more than 15 are under +ground; it has a fall of 614 ft., traverses, by 45 tunnels, 3 chains of +limestone hills, and crosses numerous valleys by aqueducts, of which the +largest crosses the ravine of the river Arc at Roquefavour. This +aqueduct is 270 ft. high on three tiers of arches, is 1312 ft. long, 44½ +ft. wide at the base, and 14 ft. wide at the water-way. It consists of +51,000 cubic yards of masonry, and cost £151,394, while the cost of the +whole canal from the Durance to the sea, near Cape Croisette, +a little to the east of Marseilles, has been £2,090,000. +A branch from the principal channel throws 198,000 gallons per +minute into the city, while five other ramifications fertilise by +irrigation the country around it. The canal water is purified in the +basins of Réaltort. The large reservoir for Marseilles is behind the +Palais de +Longchamp. (See p. 114, and for the course of the canal, maps +pp. 66 and 123.) + +To visit the aqueduct, take the road to the left from the station, +pass under the railway bridge, and then ascend partly by a steep path +and partly by steps to the house of the concierge. + +78 + + +Aix. Hôtel de Ville. + +16½ m. E. from Rognac, or 33 m. N. from Marseilles by Rognac, but only +18 m. N. by Gardanne, is Aix-en-Provence, pop. 29,000. +_Hotels:_ Negre-Coste, the best, in the Grand Cours; at the east +end of the Cours, Mule-Noire, and near it at the Palais de Justice, the +Hôtel du Palais; at the station end of the Cours, the Louvre and the +France; at the baths, the Hôtel des Bains; opposite the Hôtel de Ville, +the Hôtel Aigle d’Or. Best cafés in the Cours René. Post and telegraph +offices in the street behind the Cours, or behind the division opposite +the Hôtel Negre-Coste. Aix, formerly the capital of Provence, was +founded 120 b.c. by the Consul Sextius +Calvinus around the thermal springs, which he himself had discovered. +The temperature of the water is 95° F., and the ingredients, iron and +iodine, the carbonates, sulphates, and chlorides of soda and magnesia, +together with an organic bituminous matter strongly impregnated with +glairine. The establishment is situated at the extremity of the Cours +Sextius. Pension, 8½ frs. Each bath 1 fr. At the high end of the +Cours René is a statue, by David, of René of Anjou, “le bon Roi,” king +of Naples, Sicily, and Jerusalem; died in 1480 at the age of 72, and +buried at Angers, where he was born. He was endowed with every virtue, +was a poet, painter, and musician, and was skilled in medicine and +astronomy. During his reign in Aix the people were prosperous, and art +and science flourished. From the right of the statue streets lead up to +the principal square with a monument to Lodovico XV., the Palais de +Justice with statues of the jurists Portales and Siméon, and the church +of the Madeleine, built for the perpetual adoration of the host. +A little higher up are the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1640; the +Halle-aux-Grains, reconstructed in 1760 and adorned with bold and +spirited sculpture. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the great clock tower, +bearing the date 1512. In the centre of the court of the Hôtel de Ville +is a statue of Mirabeau, and on the staircase a white marble statue of +Marshal Villars, by Coustou. In the Hôtel de Ville is also the public +library with 100,000 vols. Among the MSS. is the prayer book of King +René, with illustrations said to have been done by himself. No. 569 is a +small 4to volume, with copies of letters written by Queen Mary Stuart. +The first 57 pages relate to her early history. At page 645 commences a +defence of her conduct, written by a warm partisan of the queen. The +street, ascending through the gateway of the clock tower, leads to the +university buildings, the palace of the archbishop, and the +Aix: Cathedral. +Cathedral of Saint Sauveur, built in the 11th cent., partly on +the foundations of a temple to Apollo. The tower, 195 ft. high, was +built in the 15th cent., and the chancel in 1285. The façade was +commenced in 1476, and the beautiful sculpture on the great entrance +door executed in 1503. It is generally covered by a plain outer door. In +the interior to the right is the Baptistery, an octagonal chapel with +six antique marble and two granite Corinthian columns about 30 ft. high, +each shaft being of one stone. The ornamental sculpture on the panels +and in the spandrels is by Puget. On the same side are two triptychs, +one by Crayer, “Mary worshipped by Saints,” and the +79 + +other by some artist of the Jean Van Eyck school, representing in the +centre Moses and the burning bush, with Mary up in a clump of trees. On +one wing is King René on his knees, attended by the Magdalene, St. +Maurice, and St. Anthony; and on the other wing is the king’s second +wife, Jeanne de Laval, attended by her patron saints. On the outside of +the shutters are the angel Gabriel and Mary. + +On each side of the chancel is an organ case, but only the one on the +left hand has pipes. Under each is a large tapestry dating from 1511, +representing scenes in the life of J. C. Both pieces are said to +have belonged to St. Paul’s of London. Among the relics the church +possesses are: the skull of St. Ursula, the arm of one of her 11,000 +virgins presented by Nicolas V. in 1458, a rib of St. +Sebastian presented by King René, and three thorns from the crown of our +Lord. + +Aix: Picture Gallery. + +The last street at the S.E. end of the Cours René leads directly to the +church of St. Jean and the Picture Gallery adjoining; free on Sundays and +Thursdays from 12 to 4. St. Jean was built in the 13th cent. by the +Princes of the house of Aragon for the order of the Knights of St. John +of Jerusalem. The spire is 220 ft. high. To the left of the altar is the +tomb of Raymond and wife, Comte de Provence. + +On the ground-floor of the picture gallery are sarcophagi, inscriptions, +and statues ancient and modern. Upstairs is a large collection of +paintings, water-colours, and drawings; but few have either labels or +numbers. + +The “Biscotins” seen in the shop windows are round sweet biscuits about +the size and shape of walnuts. The better kind, “Gallissons,” are flat +and diamond shaped. The olive oil made in the farms around Aix is +reputed to have a very fine fruity flavour. The reason alleged +is—the trees being small the berries are gathered, or rather +plucked, by the hand before they are quite ripe. Where the trees are +large, as in the more favoured parts of the Riviera, the fruit must be +allowed to ripen to allow of its being shaken down by long poles. The +trees are pruned in circles, leaving an empty space in the centre. + +Rians. Meyrargues. + +(For the following see maps, pages 66 and +123.) Coach daily +from the “Cours” to Rians, 20 in. N.E., passing Vauvenargues, 8 m. +E. The castle, 14th cent., and village of Vauvenargues are situated +near the cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. of the +culminating point, 3175 ft. above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire +mountains. Rians, pop. 2900, +_Inn:_ Hôtel Barème, is situated amidst olive trees and vineyards. +Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the railway 34½ m. N. from +Marseilles, and 155½ S. from Grenoble, passing Jouques, 7½ m. N., +with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the gorge of the Riaou, +in which rise the copious springs of the Bouillidous, which irrigate the +fields and set in motion numerous mills. 2 m. beyond Jouques is +Peyrolles (pop. 1200. +_Inn:_ Hôtel du Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of +the Grand Sambiu, 2560 ft. above the sea. In the chapel of the old +fortress is a painting on wood attributed to King René. + +Meyrargues (pop. +2000. _Inn:_ Reynaud) is situated with its castle +80 + +in the valley of the Volubière. Coach at station awaits passengers from +Rians. + +Diligences. Branch Lines. + +Diligence also from the Cours to Pélissanne, 18 m. W., passing by +La Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14 m. +W. Coach from Pelissanne to Salon, 4 m. W. (For Salon, see p. 66.) 5 m. N.E. from Pelissanne is +Lambesc. + +Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the best +way is to go on to the next station N. from Aix, La Calade, where a +coach awaits passengers for St. +Cannat, 5 m. N.W., and Lambesc, 3½ m. farther. In the +village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N. D. de la Vie, visited by +pilgrims. Lambesc, +14 m. from Aix, pop. 3000, is a pretty little town, agreeably +situated at the foot of the hill Berthoire. The manufactures of olive +oil and silk form the principal industries. + +7 m. S. from Aix, and 11 m. N. from Marseilles, is Gardanne, pop. +3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to Carnoules, +52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See under +Carnoules, +p. 142.) + +From Rognac the train passes by the Étang de Berre, and halts at +Vitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2½ m. S. from Rognac. +3¼ m. S. from Vitrolles and 11¼ m. N. from Marseilles is +Pas-des-Lanciers, junction with line to Martigues (see p. 66), 12¾ m. E. + +Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and +7 miles north from Marseilles, is the station of L’Estaque, a village on the +sea, full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the +valley of the Séon. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor, +architect, and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at +Marseilles 2d December 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis +XIV., to the glory of which his genius had contributed. He was the +youngest of three brothers, the children of Simon Puget, a poor +stonemason, who died while Pierre was still a boy. + +Marseilles (see p. 111). Cabs and +the omnibuses from all the principal hotels await passengers in the +large open court just outside the arrival side of the railway station. +At the east end of the departure side of the railway station is the +Station Hotel, very comfortable, but the prices are rather more than +moderate. + +81 + + +LYONS TO NÎMES. + +172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône, passing Oullins, +Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil, +Laudun, and Rémoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles. + +Maps, pages 26, 46, +56 and 66. + + +NÎMES +172 +LYONS: start from the Perrache station. The train after passing +Oullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9 m. from Lyons, pop. +1400, with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle +converted into a school. 4 m. farther is Givors-canal, where the Nîmes line +separates from the line to St. Etienne, 29 m. W. The canal of +Givors, commenced in 1761, is 13 m. long, and is used chiefly by +the coal barges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The +train now proceeds to Loire, 16½ m. S. from Lyons, pop. 1400, +famous for chestnuts, and then 8 m. farther down the Rhône to +Ampuis (opposite Vaugris), pop. +2000, H. du Nord, producing apricots, melons, and chestnuts, and +possessing 94 acres of the Côte-Rotie vineyards, of which 46 acres +belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines of France, +remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. It is a +little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3 m. farther south by +rail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious white +wines, becoming amber-coloured. 31 m. S. from Lyons is Chavanay, +pop. 1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ +H. Commerce; Soleil; omnibus at station. 4 m. from Chavanay by +coach is Pelussin, pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of +Virieux castle. 7 m. farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway +viaduct of 66 arches. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +39¼ +132¾ +PEYRAUD, pop. 400. +Junction with line to Annonay, 9 m. W., and to Grenoble, 60 m. +E. by Rives and Voreppe. Annonay, pop. 16,500, built in the hollow and on +the sides of the surrounding mountains, at the confluence of the Déôme +and the Cance. _Inn:_ H. Midi, in the principal square, +occupying the centre of the low town. +The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance. The +Hôtel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the brothers +Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon ascent, 3d +June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the founders of one +of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper was long esteemed +the best in France. 27 m. N.W. from Annonay by coach, traversing a +beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From Annonay the road ascends +9¾ m. to Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. _Inn:_ France. Bourg, as +the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and manufacturing town, on +the Déôme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains +82 + +covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. farther the road passes the +castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating point on a +vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country around is covered +with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the road are to guide +travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now crosses the plateau +called La République, bounded by the Bois de Merlon, and then descends +to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5 m. from St. Etienne, and La Rivière +2 m. 17½ m. by rail from Annonay is Tournon. + +Tournon. + +56½ m. S. from Lyons, 115½ N. from Nîmes, and opposite Tain, with +which it is connected by two suspension bridges, is Tournon, pop. 6100, on the Rhône. Hôtel de +l’Assurance between the bridges, and opposite the landing-place from the +Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easily reach from Tournon many +of the tributaries of the Rhône. Next the hotel is the castle of the +Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice. Beyond it is the church of +St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is on lofty early pointed +arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principal industries. Coach +daily to Le Cheilard, 5½ hrs., ascending +all the way (see p. 83). Coaches also to St. Félicien, 3 hrs. W.; +to St. Agrève, 9¼ hrs. W.; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7½ hrs. W. +3 m. N. from Tournon is Vion, with a beautiful church. (See map, p. 46.) + + +LYONS +NÎMES +65½ +106½ +SAINT PERAY, pop. 3000. +_Inn:_ H. du Nord. Omnibus at station. Also omnibus for +Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from the station, +situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. The vineyards +here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of which is natural, +not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as is the case +with the other champagnes. + +69 m. from Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by +the Tour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave, +La Grotte de Néron, in which prehistoric remains have been found. +2½ m. farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3 m. +Beauchastel, pop. 1000, 2 m. from St. Laurent du Pape. (Map, p. 46.) + +La Voulte. St. Sauveur. Le Cheilard. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +77 +95 +LA VOULTE, pop. 5000. +_Inn:_ H. du Musée. Temple Protestant. Railway and steamboat +stations. A dirty and badly-paved town on the right bank and on the +steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhône. On the summit are the +Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced by Bernard +Anduze in 1305, and finished by Gilbert III. de Ventadour in 1582, +who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen, and +the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a large +iron-foundry, employing 170 men. +83 + + +The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the +decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. _Inn:_ +H. Chalvet, 2 m. down the Rhône, but behind the hills. The +water contains iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily +from La Voulte to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30 m. N.W., 6 hrs., +and to St. Pierreville, 24 m. W., 5 hrs. The road to the two places +separates at St. Sauveur, 8¾ m. E. from St. Pierreville, and +15 m. S.E. from Le Cheilard. (See map, +p. 46.) St. +Sauveur, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Poste; Voyageur. Is prettily +situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le Cheilard, between high +rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a series of laboriously walled +terraces, on which are small fields of wheat intermingled with walnut, +chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, and in the more favoured spots +vines and peach and mulberry trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is +itself terraced the greater part of the way. A few miles up the +river, opposite the village Chalançon, _Inn:_ H. Astier, is a +very good specimen of an old donkey-backed bridge, Le Cheilard, 2130 ft. above +the sea, pop. 3500. _Inn:_ H. Courtial. This, the great +diligence centre of Ardèche, is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow +streets, beautifully situated on the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty +terraced mountains. Coaches daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon. +Every other day to Annonay by the same road as the Tournon coach as far +as a little beyond Mastre, 1280 ft. above the sea, whence it diverges +northward. Coach daily also to Le Puy, 36 m. N.W., by St. +Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200, at the confluence of the Eysse and the +Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22 m. E. from Le Puy, near the river +Lignon, pop. 900. (Map, page 46.) + + +ROAD TO THE SOURCE OF THE LOIRE. + + +Saint +Sauveur to Le Beage by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and +Lachamp-Raphaél (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St. +Pierreville ascends the Gluyère or Glaire in much the same way as the +road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. St. Pierreville, 1788 ft. above the sea, +pop. 2100. _Inns:_ Rochier; Commerce. Temple Protestant. On an +eminence rising from the Gluyère. At St. Pierreville passengers for +Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road follows the +course of the Gluyère, between great granite cliffs. 2 m. before +reaching Marcols is the clean little village of Olbon, on both +sides of the Gluyère, with a nice inn, the H. des Voyageurs, and a +Temple Protestant. A little farther by the side of the stream is a +spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas. + +Marcols. Lachamp-Raphaél. + +6 m. W. from St. Pierreville is Marcols, 3380 ft. above the sea, a small +village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the Gluyère. +_Inn:_ H. de l’Union. This is the terminus of the +stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired. As +conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan for +those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance, is to +spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next morning in a +vehicle hired from the “Bureau des Diligences,” 15 frs. per day, +84 + +with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphaél, 11 frs. Le Beage is +28¼ m. N.W. from St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols +6 m., Mezillac 11¾ m., and Lachamp-Raphaél 16 m. + +The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2¼ hrs., coils up the sides of steep +terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed situation, +is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive stone +cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former one, 10th +cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac. A little +farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le Cheilard to +Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage. Thus far the +prevailing rock has been granite, but about ½ m. from Mezillac the +road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic prisms. + +4½ m. W. from Mezillac is the hamlet of Lachamp-Raphaél, 4364 ft. above the sea. +Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where generally +abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes may be had, +with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1 hour from Lachamp +by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which plunges down into a dark +abyss. Any lad can show the way. + + +Source of the Loire. + +MONT MEZENC +and the SOURCE of the LOIRE + + +opp. 84 +see caption + + +THE GERBIER-DE-JONCS AND MONT MEZENC. + + +2 m. beyond Lachamp-Raphaél, just under the culminating point of the +road (4600 ft. above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison +Bourlatié, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison +Bourlatié a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road, +which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly seen +after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour’s easy walking +from Bourlatié. It is a most interesting and easy excursion. The +Gerbier-de-Joncs (_Gerbiarum jugum_) is an isolated pointed +cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft. above +the tableland, 5125 ft. above the sea, and commanding a wide and +extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of trachyte +and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire, running +first into a little circular basin for the use of the adjoining +farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet from 3 to 4 +inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to turn the wheel of +a mill. The continuation of the road from the Gerbier goes to Les +Etables, 22 m. S.E. from Le Puy, at the foot of Mount Mezenc, 5755 +ft. above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return for the night to +Lachamp, 22½ m. N. from Aubenas by Antraigues. + +Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Beage, +12½ m. W. Char-à-banc, 10 frs. The road, which has been +ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte, continues to ascend +till about 1¾ m. beyond Lachamp, where it attains its culminating +point, about 4600 ft. A little farther the road to the Gerbier +diverges to the right. Less than 2 m. from this the road crosses +the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the village of St. +Eulalie on the way to Montpezat. + +Le Beage. Mezenc. + +Le Beage, pop. 850. +_Inns:_ La Maison Brun; H. des Voyageurs. A dirty cattle +and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. above the sea, beautifully +85 + +situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradère, which rushes past in +a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop cultivated, the +mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are held annually +here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to October the +weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females is lace-making +on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed to a short +cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured glass heads. +The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay them at the +rate of from 2d. to 4½d. the yard, according to the breadth of the lace, +from 2 to 4 inches. A most industrious lace-maker can earn +1 fr. per day. 3¼ m. S.W. from Le Beage in an extinct crater +is the lake Issarlès, occupying a surface of 222 acres. + +From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of Mezenc (pronounce Mezing) is visited. But the +best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. above the sea, 7½ m. +N. from Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that distance by the +direct path. _Inns:_ Testud; Chalamel, where pass the night. The +hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea, +or 1345 ft. above Les Etables, and 866 ft. above the hamlet of Mezenc. +The ascent takes about an hour. + + +LE BEAGE TO LE PUY. + + +Le Beage is 12 m. S.E. from Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On the +opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. above the sea, +and Crouziols, 4½ m. S. from Monastier. Char-à-banc between Le +Beage and Monastier, 10 frs. + +Le Monastier. + +LE MONASTIER, +pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse. _Inns:_ +Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11 m. N.W. 10¼ m. +S. is Salettes, and 22 m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. above the +sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles, +connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church, St. +Théofrède, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in 680, +and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and repaired and +enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice exhibits +throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal consists of a +semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short columns with +sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the large +rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof runs a +string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and animals. In +the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels on the vaulting +shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the chapel of Saint +Théofrède; with sculptured stone roof. He is the “protecteur du +Monastier”— “le bon pasteur, qui s’expose a la mort pour son +troupeau”— the “conservateur des fruits de la terre.” (See his +litany.) + +11¼ m. N. from Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful mountain-road +is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence and the courier is +at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthélémy near the large “Place” and the +hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the +86 + +village of Arsac, _Inn:_ H. des Voyageurs, and about 1 m. +more, on an eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the +fortress of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire +at the town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2 m. from +Brives. + + +Le Puy. The Cathedral. + +36 m. S.W. by rail from St. Etienne, 89½ m. from Lyons, and +33 m. S.E. from St. George d’Aurac junction, on the line between +Clermont and Nîmes (see maps, pp. 26 and 46), is + +Le +Puy, + +pop. 20,000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. above the sea, between the rivers +Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2 m. from the town. +_Hotels:_ +Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan is to begin +with the Cathedral. From the high side of the Place +de Breuil, at the N.W. corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles, +Chenebouterie, and Raphaél, to the Place des Tables, with a stone +pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. des Tables +to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in front +of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico to the +portal of the west façade of the church, built up in the 18th cent., and +having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone at the base of +the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood on this hill +from the earliest times, and is called the “Pierre aux fièvres,” from +its once supposed power of curing of fever those who lay upon it. + +From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the +cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of +the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side +entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent., presents an +extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side of +it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent., on the +other is the bishop’s palace, and in front a small terrace. At the north +side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent., preceded by an +arch of 28 ft. span. The cloisters are in the form of an oblong square, +with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the short, supported on +square piers with attached colonnettes. The south side is the earliest, +beginning of the 10th cent., and the western the most recent. The +church, built in 550, received a succession of alterations up to 1427, +when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846 it was repaired and +restored. The interior consists of eight square compartments, each, +excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on four massive piers. +Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower. Under it is the high +altar, with a replica of the miracle-working image,* brought from Cairo in 1251, and +presented to the church of Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed +in the Revolution of 1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the +pier of this compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were +87 + +executed at the same time by the same party. On the south wall a large +picture represents a numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries +carrying in procession the original image to make it stay the plague, +which raged in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the +Consuls of Le Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its +protection. In the sacristy is the Théodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the +north portal is the baptistery of St. Jean, built in the 4th +cent, on the foundations of a Roman edifice. + +* +The original image was of cedar, with the face, both of it and of the +child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. high, and weighed 25 lbs. The +form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian like, and the members of both +were swathed in two plies of linen. + + +Le Puy: Notre Dame de France. + +From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille, +a mass of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium. +On the top is the image of Notre Dame de France, 433 ft. above +the Hôtel de Ville, and 2478 ft. above the sea. It was unveiled on the +27th September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is +52½ ft. high, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. long, the hands 5 +ft., and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child, +J. C., is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90 +steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps +extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this colossal +figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her right side is +seen (2½ m. N.W.) the village of Polignac, likewise on a hill 2645 +ft. above the sea, clustering round its old castle. Immediately below is +the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1¼ m. S.E., Ours Mons. + +On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up +to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b. 1799, +d. 1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux +is the sculptor of both of them. + +Aiguilhe. + +Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called the +Aiguilhe, 265 ft. high, +518 ft. in circumference at the base, 45 at the top, and ascended by 266 +steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is the chapel of St. Michael, +commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and consecrated in 984. The +present building dates principally from the end of the 11th and the +beginning of the 12th cent.; restored and repaired in 1850. Originally +the interior of it as well as of the cathedral was covered with mural +paintings. The views are superb. + +Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an +octagonal baptistery, 12th cent., called the Temple of Diana. Near the +post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower +which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little +distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left of +the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous Duguesclin, +who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the fortress of +Châteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende. + +Le Puy: Musée. Picture Gallery. + +In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil is +the Musée, open +on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything is distinctly +labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left are architectural +relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The best fragments +belonged to the temple which stood on the site now occupied by the +baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the +88 + +right is a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman +antiquities, mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle +Ages. + +Upstairs is the Picture Gallery. In the centre room are +portraits of the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy +of part of the “Danse Macabre,” dance of death, in the church of +Chaise-Dieu. Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died +at Paris 1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his +native town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly +belonging to the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer, +d. 1664; Caravaggio; Coypel, d. 1707; Franck, d. 1616; +Heem, d. 1694; Lippi, d. 1469; Maes, d. 1693; Mieris, +1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695; Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr, +1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining small room is a complete collection +of the minerals belonging to the Haute-Loire. In the left room among +other pictures are: Annunciation, Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. de Valois, +Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F. Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de +France, wife of Charles I. of England, Van der Werf, 1722; +Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert, Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl, +J. B. Santerre, 1717. In the next room are specimens of the lace, +blond and guipure, worked by the females inhabiting the towns and +villages among the mountains of Ardèche and the Haute-Loire, of which +articles Le Puy is the great emporium. The specimens and sample books +are in cases. In the centre case are specimens from Alençon, Binche, +Brussels, Cevennes mountains, Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice; +the Corsage with lace trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day +she was married to Napoleon I.; also some of her ribbons. + +Ours Mons. + +1¼ m. S.E. from Le Puy is Ours +Mons, 2463 ft. above the sea, and 180 ft. above the plain. The +prospect from the top is considered by Mr. Scrope most remarkable; +“exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of volcanic formation, in great +variety of aspect, containing igneous products of various natures, +belonging to different epochs.” + + +LE PUY TO LANGOGNE BY PRADELLES. + +(Map, p. 46.) + +Le Puy, 2045 ft., to Langogne, 2940 ft. above the sea, +26 m. S. by coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a +high, cold, treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft., is +about a mile south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6 m. N. from +Pradelles. 8 m. from Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft. +From this hamlet a road diverges 8 m. S.W. to Cayres, 3727 ft. +above the sea, pop. 1450. _Inn:_ Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A lace and +cheese-making village, about 1½ m. by a good road from the extinct +crater of Le +Bouchet, 231 ft. higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres +and 92 ft. deep. It is very similar to Lake Issarlès, near Beage (which see p. 85). After Montagnac the coach +arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft., 12 m. S., where the horses are +changed. Then Sauvetat, 16 m. from Le Puy, pop. 300, and afterwards +Pradelles, 3771 ft., +pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21 m. from Le Puy and 5 m. +from Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne railway station, where the +omnibus of the Cheval Blanc +89 + +awaits passengers. Pradelles is 24½ m. S. from Le Monastier by St. +Paul-de-Tartas, and 2½ m. from Les Sallettes (see map, p. 46). + +Pradelles +to Mayres, 18 m. S.E., char-à-banc, 20 to 25 frs., by a good but +a high and exposed road, passing Peyrebelle +(p. 95), La Narce, 8¾ m., pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft. +above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche, whence the road descends +rapidly, passing above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance +into Ardèche. + +From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St. +Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. from Le Puy, and +12½ m. E. from Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach. + + +LE PUY TO LANGEAC BY ST. GEORGES. + +(Map, +p. 46.) + +For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to Langeac by St. Georges d’Aurac +is very useful. The culminating point of the line, 3658 ft, is in the +tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This railway crosses at right +angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct volcanoes, extending from +Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles. + +Espaly. Borne. Darsac. + +Le Puy to Langeac, 36½ m. W. by rail. The first part of the line +traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs. +1 m. from Le Puy the train passes the village of Espaly, and by the face of basaltic columns +rising from the Borne and its little affluent the Riou-Pézeliou, in +whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been found. On the opposite +side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt called the Croix de la +Paille, with a display of prisms in three tiers, called les orgues +d’Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at the foot of a rock of +volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of a castle built in 1260 +by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy. + +8¾ m. from Puy is Borne, 2535 +ft. above the sea, pop. 390. A ramble in the ravine of Borne forms +a pleasant and easy excursion from Le Puy. 5½ m. E. from this +station, or 3¼ m. W. from Le Puy, is Polignac, passed by the train. +The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th cent., is at the foot of a +rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the imposing ruins of a fortress +dating from the 11th cent. A stair of 132 steps (ascent dangerous) +leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th cent., commanding an extensive +view. + +13 m. W. from Le Puy is Darsac, 2914 ft. above the sea. A small hamlet, +with a restaurant, the station for Chaise-Dieu, 13¾ m. N., +fare 2½ frs., and for Arlanc, 24¼ m. N., or 10½ m. beyond +Chaise-Dieu. + +La Chaise-Dieu. + +The coach first passes through Allègre, pop. 1700, a dirty little +village, 5 m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. above the +sea, with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and +Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the Velay +chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8 m. the +high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at La Chaise-Dieu, 3576 ft. +above the sea, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Lion d’Or; Centre; Nord. +A dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church +participates. Robert, a scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and +canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons of +N. D. +90 + +du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and most +inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and his +companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery at +Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly +proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or +Casa-Dei. Clement VI., formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of +Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his elevation +to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on the site +formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was continued +and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI., in 1420, by whom are the façade +with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. high, and the +horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. square and 110 high, +attached to the S. point of the apse, was built by the abbot de Chanac +to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with a wall. The +gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent, are just under +the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings are the +cloisters, a parallelogram, 140 ft. by 77, of which only two sides +remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and +traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four. + +The interior of the church is 301 ft. long, surrounded by 22 tall plain +slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which spreads +itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. wide, and the +aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same height. The +church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one between each two +columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where a triangular +projection affords space for three windows. The tracery has little +depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft. long, is +separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144 carved +cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of Arras +tapestry, 16th cent., from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the centre is the +mausoleum of Clement VI. His white marble effigy, with the hands +folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an altar table +of black marble. + +On the N. side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is +the “Danse Macabre,” or dance of death, a favourite subject with +artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund gait +of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and demure +expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and warriors, young +and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst of their projects +and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the sadly mutilated +mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the unfortunate Harold. +Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last abbot of La +Chaise-Dieu. + + +Arlanc. Ambert. Fix-St. Geneys. + +La Chaise-Dieu to Vichy by Arlanc and Ambert. + + +10½ m. N. by coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24¼ m. N. from Darsac, and +11¼ m. S. from Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is Arlanc, pop. 4500, _Inn:_ +H. des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore, +91 + +consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed +mostly of old houses. A great deal of lace and blond is made +here. + +11¼ m. N. is the manufacturing town of Ambert, pop. 8000, 43 m. N. by rail from Vichy; +whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs., of the culminating point of the Forez +mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. above the sea. 15 m. from +Ambert, and 11¾ m. S. from Thiers, is Olliergues, pop. 2000, on a +hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some 13th cent. +houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the family of the +Tour d’Auvergne. 13 m. farther N., or 8¾ m. S. from Thiers, is +Courpière, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and the ruins of +the castle of Courte-Serre. 61 m. N. from Darsac, or 36¾ m. N. +from Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For Vichy see p. 358; Thiers, p. 367. + +The next station west from Darsac by rail (see map, +p. 46) is Fix-St. Geneys, 18 m. from Le Puy, 3274 +ft. above the sea, pop. 900. _Inn:_ H. des Voyageurs, situated +on a tableland above the valley of the Sioule, covered on one side with +firs. 2½ m. farther is the station for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950 +ft. above the sea, on the Sioule. 7½ m. farther is Rougeac, with a +castle 1923 ft. above the sea. + +St. Georges-d’Aurac. Monistrol. + +The most westerly station on the line is St. Georges d’Aurac, 1872 ft. above +the sea, 86½ m. W. from St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy. +58½ m. N. by rail is Clermont, and 131 m. S. by rail is Nîmes +(see map, p. 26). Near the station is the +inn Lombardin. The village, pop. 500, is 2 m. S.E. Other 2 m. +E. is the château Chavagnac, the birthplace of General Lafayette. +5½ m. W. is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800, most picturesquely situated on +a narrow peninsula formed by the Allier, opposite the mouth of the +Avesne. The church was built in the 15th cent. by Jean de Bourbon, +bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going north change carriages at the station +of St. Georges d’Aurac. 4½ m. S.W. from St. Georges, 90½ W. from +St. Etienne, and 36½ from Le Puy, is Langeac, +1690 ft., 63 m. S. from Clermont, and +127 m. N. from Nîmes. All the trains halt here. _Inns:_ +H. Lombardin; Pascon. Their omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on +the Allier, is a pleasant town near the station, situated in a vast +plain. The parish church dates from the 15th cent. To the N.E. of the +town, in the valley of Morange, is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (Map, page 46.) + +15 m. S. from Langeac is Monistrol-d’Allier, 2000 ft. above the sea, pop. +1200. The station is on the E. side, and the town on the W. side of the +river. Coach by a picturesque road to Le Puy, 17 m. N.E. by +St. Privat, 2930 ft., pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in a +deep gully between high cliffs. A little way beyond the hamlet of +Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. above the sea. +10 m. from Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft., pop. 1300, with a very old +church. 1¼ m. farther the road passes the picturesque rock of +Cordes, 3012 ft., and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft., and +Mont Bonzon. Coach from Monistrol to Saugues, 6½ m. W., +3116 ft., pop. 4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful +valley of the Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument +92 + +called the tomb of the “English general.” It consists of a square +vaulted roof of small stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. high +and 6⅜ ft. apart. It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the +mortuary chapel at Valence (see p. 44). + +Le Pouzin. Privas. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +81 +91 +LE POUZIN, pop. 3000, +_Inn:_ H. Lion d’Or, on the Ouvèze, which here enters the +Rhône. The town has foundries and the remains of its old castle. +Junction with line to Privas, 13¼ m. W. Privas, pop. 8000. _Inns:_ Croix d’Or; Louvre. +On an eminence 1060 ft. above the sea, at the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838 +ft. higher, and at the confluence of the Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the +Ouvèze. The town, looking well from a distance, consists chiefly of +narrow, crooked, steep streets, and dingy houses. From the promenade +called the Esplanade, planted with plane trees, is an excellent view of +the picturesque valley of the Ouvèze, and of the volcanic chain of the +Coiron, especially of Mount Combier. 1¼ m. from Privas, on the +plain of the Lai, is a house called the Logis du Roi, in which Louis +XIII. established his headquarters in 1629, when, with Cardinal +Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant inhabitants in the town, commanded +by the brave Montbrun. + +From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. to Ollières, on the Eyrieux. +_Inn:_ H. du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollières +the coaches to La Voulte and Valence on the Rhône, and the coaches to Le +Cheilard and to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the +Source of the Loire and Mont Mezenc (see pp. 84, 85). Coach also to +Aubenas, 18 m. S.E. (See next page, and map +p. 46.) + +Rochemaure. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +98 +74 +ROCHEMAURE, pop. +1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. The modern +part of the village is built along the high road, but the old on the +steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of the castle. +There are many ways up to the top; the best and most frequented +commences just opposite the “auberge,” traverses the centre of the +curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with the arms +of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the battlemented +wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the seigneurial +manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on a +needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the Keep, +like a spear piercing the sky. A narrow path leading so far up will +be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley of +the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains. These +ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a massive +edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th cent. by +the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its present condition +by order of Louis XIII. + +93 + + +A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more +than an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top +of the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic +columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear. + +Le Teil. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +95¾ +76¼ +LE TEIL, pop. 3200, with +some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers for Montelimart, 3¼ m. E., on the other side of the +Rhône (p. 48). Branch line to Alais, 62¼ m. S.W., on the line +between Nîmes and Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch, +17½ m. S.W. from Le Teil, and 44¾ m. N.E. from Alais, +a smaller branch extends 12 m. N. to Nieigles-Prades. The +Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance into Ardèche (see maps, +pages 26, 46, and 56). + + +Aubenas. Vals. + +Vogué, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres. + +5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is Aubignas (Alba Augusta), pop. 530, once an +important Roman station. 6¼ m. N. from Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000, +_Inn:_ H. Durand, on a hill covered with vines, olives, and +mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardèche, and commanding an +extensive view of the valley of the river. On the highest part of the +town are the church and the fine old castle, now containing the college, +the hospital, and some other public institutions. Aubenas is the centre +of an important trade in raw silk, butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux, +a village to the north of Aubenas, excellent chestnuts are grown. +(Maps, pages 56 and 46.) + +3¼ m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus awaits +passengers. VALS, pop. 4000, on +the Volane, famous for its Mineral Waters. _Hotels:_ Des +Bains, on an eminence above the bathing establishment and the gardens. +In the same neighbourhood are the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse; +Lyon; Orient. All the important springs are also in this part. In the +town are the Hotels Europe; Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the +Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to 15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs. +Season from 1st May to October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane, +in a hollow among hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry +and chestnut trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all +at the eastern extremity. Near the H. du Parc is the intermittent +fountain, and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises, +under a grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little +beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse, and +the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up the +river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so +pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the +Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to +the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove +paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may be +drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia, +94 + +lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the arseniate of soda, +and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid gas. + +Antraigues. + +5 m. N. from Vals, or 9 m. from Aubenas and 16 m. from Privas, is +Antraigues, pop. +2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks, at whose base flow +three impetuous mountain torrents—the Bise, Mas, and Volane. From +the heights behind the town there is a magnificent view. In the +neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the Coupe d’Aizac, covered with a beautiful +reddish lava. _Inns:_ Brousse; Glaise. + + +Neyrac-les-Bains. Thueyts. + +AUBENAS TO LANGOGNE BY MAYRES. + + +(Maps, pp. 56 and 46.) + +Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18 m. W. It passes through +Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft., and by the eminence on which is Neyrac-les-Bains, +the Nereisaqua of the Romans. _Inns:_ H. des Bains; +H. Fournier. 2½ m. from Pont-de-la-Baume, 7 from Vals, +and 9½ from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Léger, +containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81° +Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place, +the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in 2 +or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2 m. +W., on the left bank of the Ardèche, at its confluence with the Médéric, +is Thueyts, pop. 2600, +_Inn:_ H. Burine, situated on a bed of lava from the crater of +Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea. Through this bed the Ardèche +has, in cutting a passage for itself, laid bare a grand display of +basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft. high, extending nearly 2 m. +down the valley. To the W. of the Bourg are a bridge with two stages of +arches across the Médéric, called the Pont du Diable, and the falls of +the Gueule d’Enfer, 330 ft., which, unless in rainy weather, have very +little water. From this part commences the Pavé-des-Géants, +a tableland composed of granite and basalt of an average height of +214 ft. from the base, lined with vertical prisms. To the right, at the +extremity of this wall of rock, is the Echelle du Roi, +a staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms, within a natural shaft +or chimney, leading up to the top of the tableland, where there is a +good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne. The ascent requires about 1 +hour. + +The diligence now ascends the Ardèche to Mayres. About half-way, near +the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d’Abraham, 4358 +ft. above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation. + +Mayres. + +5½ m. from Thueyts is Mayres, pop. 2900. _Inns:_ France; Commerce. +1810 ft. above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft. +above the sea, and on the Ardèche, which here flows in a narrow gorge +between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres. For +Langogne, 22 m. N.W., it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From +Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet of +Astet at the foot of the Rocher d’Astet, 4925 ft. above the sea. + +7 m. from Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170 +ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche. 2½ m. farther is +La Narce, pop. 900. A little beyond, or 26 m. from Aubenas and +95 + +14 from Langogne, is the roadside inn of Peyrebelle, 4195 ft. above the sea, where for 25 +years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the travellers that +came to their house. Nearly 4 m. N. from Peyrebelle is Coucouron, +pop. 1400. + +The road now attains the height of 4266 ft., where, on account of the +snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter. + +35 m. from Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is Pradelles, 3771 ft., 16 m. from Le Puy by coach +and 5 from Langogne (see p. 88, and maps, pages 26, 56 and 46). + + +Prades. Jaujac. + +Prades, Pont-de-la-Baume, Jaujac, Montpezat, +St. Eulalie, and Source of the Loire. + +For the main loopline, see map p. 56; for the +rest, map p. 46. + +11¾ m. N. from Vogué station and 5½ from Aubenas station is the terminus +of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it coaches take +passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600, is situated on +an eminence rising from the N. side of the Ardèche. In the vicinity are +coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting terraces covered with +chestnut trees. On the south side of the Ardèche, and to the east of +Jaujac, is Prades, pop. +1200, on the Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin. + +Near the railway terminus is the village of Pont-de-la-Baume, +pop. 900, _Inns:_ H. du Louvre, etc., 955 ft. above the sea, +at the confluence of the rivers Fontaulière and Alignon with the +Ardèche. One of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in +the neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded +here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet, +Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it. + +3¾ m. from La Baume, or 7½ from Aubenas by coach, is Jaujac, the Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop. +2600. _Inn:_ Union. On an eminence above the Alignon, of which +nearly the whole of the right bank from Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is +lined with countless basaltic prisms. From the town cross the bridge, +and at the mill descend to the path by the side of the river, where +there is an admirable view of the columns, which, however, are not +vertical. About ½ m. from the town is the Coupe de Jaujac, an +extinct volcano, which has burst through the coal formation of this +valley, bounded by mountains of granite and gneiss. It is ascended +easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the crater, just where the path +leading to the top commences, is a gaseous chalybeate spring; not unlike +those of Vals. + +Montpezat. + +14 m. N.W. from Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by diligence, +is Montpezat. The road +from Aubenas ascends by the Ardèche, which it crosses; La Baume at the +foot of the hill, on which are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour, +14th cent. Farther on, within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of +the castle of Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115 +ft. high, over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the +Fontaulière or Fontollière. Near the +96 + +suspension bridge across the Fontaulière is Mt. Gravenne, the best +specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region. The toll-keeper from +the bridge can point out the path leading to the top. The bridge is +about 10 minutes’ walk from Montpezat. + +Montpezat-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. above +the sea, rising from the Ardèche. _Inns:_ Europe; Poste. This is +the terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulière has its source in +the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the new +road La Vestide is 6½ m. N.W. from Montpezat. Coach to the base of +the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. high from the base, but +the crater is nearly 900 ft. deep. By the old road, ascending by the +village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4 m. distant. + + +MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY. + + +To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N.W., hire vehicle to Le Beage, +16 m. N.W., 20 to 25 frs., and from Le Beage to Le Monastier, +12 m., 10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From +Montpezat the road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft., opposite +the extinct volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. higher, with 3 cones. North +is Lake Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. above +the sea. After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of +Rioutort, crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of +Usclades, 9 m. N. from Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road +ascends to Le Beage, 6¼ m. N. (see +p. 84). + +Sainte Eulalie. + +From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. to the source of the Loire by +Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. Sainte Eulalie, pop. 650, _Inn:_ Faure, in +a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2 m. S. from +the road between Lachamp-Raphaél and Le Beage. The large peak seen in +the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the source +of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the one-arch +bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the path by the +side of the stream (see p. 84, and maps pp. +46 and 85). + + +Ruoms. Largentière. + +Ruoms, Largentière, Vallon, Pont d’Arc. + +See map, page 56. + +25½ m. S.W. from Teil, 8 m. S.W. from Vogué, and 36½ m. N.E. of +Alais, is Ruoms. Station for +Largentière, 9 m. N., 1¼ fr. For Joyeuse, 8 m. W., and for +Vallon, 6¼ m. S. Largentière, pop. 3000. _Hotels:_ Europe; +France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix, pop. +5000, on the Cèze, H. Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and +glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with +important coal-fields. Largentière, or properly L’Argentière, situated +in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous +mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the +Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300. +Joyeuse, pop. 2300. _Inns:_ H. Nord; Europe. Situated with its +suburb, Rosières, on the Baume. The town has part +97 + +of its ancient ramparts, and the castle which belonged to the Sires de +Joyeuse. In the church the chapel to the right of the choir contains an +Annunciation, with the arms of the family of Joyeuse. + +The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a +considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates. + + +Pont d’Arc. + +VALLON TO THE PONT D’ARC. + +(Map, p. 56.) + +One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is Vallon, pop. 2500. _Inns:_ *H. du Louvre; +Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the Pont d’Arc is 75 minutes distant by the stony +road over the hill, which, as far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is +also the road to the caves. A boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10 +frs.; to St. Martin it costs 35 frs., time 7 hrs. St. Martin is +3 m. from the railway station of St. Just, +on the railway on the west side of the Rhône (see p. 98). The +landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont, +2 frs., or for the caves, 5 frs., or the boatman for sailing +down the Ardèche. The Pont d’Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardèche, +composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft., through +which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft. +high, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft., and 48 thick. +There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is +unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding +scenery. A lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and +mulberry trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft. +high, which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great +stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them +is 490 ft. long and 100 ft. high. Vallon is famous for black truffles, +honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are +better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by other +scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly appears +upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, page +54.) + + +LYONS +NÎMES +102½ +69½ +VIVIERS, pop. 3300. +_Inn:_ Louvre. The station and the new town are along the road +parallel to the Rhône: the old town with the cathedral is on the hill +behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here, along the W. +side of the Rhône, are lofty limestone cliffs, the quarrying and +preparing of which forms the principal industry of the place. Coach to +Aps, 8 m. N.W. on the Teil and Alais railway, passing St. Thomé, +pop. 600, at the junction of the Nègue with the Escoutay, which flows +through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Châteauneuf, on the opposite or east +side of the Rhône. + +Bourg-St. Andeol. St. Just. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +109½ +62½ +BOURG-ST. +ANDEOL, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Luxembourg; Europe; their +omnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (page 50), on the opposite or E. side of the Rhône. Le +Bourg has handsome quays alongside the Rhône, a church founded in +the +98 + +11th cent., and some houses of the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards +from the town, at the foot of a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de +Tournes, which, after turning various mills, flows into the Rhône. About +20 ft. above it is a much effaced sculpture in relief, representing the +sacrifice of a bull to the god Mithras. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +115 +57 +ST. JUST and St. Marcel +station, from which both towns are less than a mile, but in different +directions. 2½ m. from the village of St. Just is St. Martin, pop. +600, on the left or N. bank of the Ardèche. A ferry-boat crosses +the river. On the other side, a little farther up, is Aiguèze, pop. +450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien, but not seen +from St. Martin. + +Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4½ m. +up the river, or 3¾ m. W. from the village of St. Marcel. The price +depends upon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists +of a tunnel, 4¼ m. long, which here and there widens out into +spacious lofty caverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep, +slippery, and fatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and +certainly none but ardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should +undertake the labour. The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels +are at Pont-Saint Esprit and at Bourg-St. Andéol. + +Pont-St. Esprit. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +119 +53 +PONT-ST. +ESPRIT, pop. 5000. H. de l’Europe. Coach to La Croisière, +on the other or east side of the Rhône. (See for bridge and Croisière +page 50.) Station of the steamboat between Lyons +and Avignon. Pont-Saint Esprit, on the west side of the Rhône and on the +western Rhône railway, makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place, +with pleasant promenades by the side of the Rhône. Down from the bridge +are the church of St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in +the 15th cent. Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620. +Within, down a steep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel +constructed in 1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is a +beautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegant +pinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. span, is richly decorated. In the +Hôtel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faïences) pottery. +Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4½ m. S.W.) and back 15 frs. +At Valbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30 +inmates. The drive is pleasant (see map, +page 56). + +Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardèche, 4½ m. +N.W., there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above.) + +99 + + +7½ m. south from Pont-St. Esprit is Bagnols-sur-Cèze, pop. 5000. +H. du Louvre. Omnibus at station. A manufacturing town. Coach +to Uzès, 17 m. W. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +132½ +39½ +LAUDUN, pop. 2200, about 2½ +m. west from the station, and 10 m. from Orange, is built on a hill +350 ft. high. The vineyards in the neighbourhood produce a good white +wine. Junction with branch to Alais, 35½ m. west, by Connaux, St. +Pons, Cavillargues, Seyne, Celas, and Mejannes; small and uninteresting +towns (see map, p. 26). + +Roquemaure. Pont-d’Avignon. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +137½ +34½ +ROQUEMAURE, pop. +3100. _Inns:_ H. du Nord; H. du Midi. Omnibus at station. +Situated on the small branch of the Rhône which encircles the island of +Mémar, 1¼ m. long. The best part of this curious old town is in the +neighbourhood of the Hôtel du Midi, where are the public promenade with +large trees, the great embankment to protect the town from the invasions +of the Rhône, and the ruins of the old castle, of which the most +remarkable part is the square tower perched on the point of a great +rock. Orchards, vineyards, and mulberry groves surround the village. +Roquemaure, however, like all the other small towns on the Rhône, has a +dingy and untidy appearance. Clement V., first Pope of Avignon, +died here in 1314. 5 m. W. is Taval, pop. 2200, where a good wine +is made. + + +LYONS +NÎMES +144¾ +27¼ +PONT-D’AVIGNON, +station on the west side of the Rhône for Avignon (p. 63). Omnibuses from the hotels await +passengers. The omnibus between Avignon and Villeneuve passes the +station every hour. Tram every ¼ between the station and Avignon. + +7 m. S. from the Pont-d’Avignon is Aramon, pop. 2800, on the Rhône, +at a considerable distance from its station. 3¾ m. farther is +Thezièrs, pop. 650, with the church of St. Amans, 11th cent., and the +ruins of a castle. (Map, page 66.) + + +LYONS +NÎMES +159¾ +12¼ +REMOULINS, pop. 1400, +with ruins of a castle. From Remoulins branch to Uzès, 12½ m. N.W. +On this line, 3¼ m. from Remoulins and 9¼ from Uzès, is +Pont-du-Gard station, on an eminence, whence walk down to the bridge. +(For description and directions see pp. 64 and 104, and map page 66.) + +Uzès. + +UZÈS, pop. 5600, _Inn_ +Bechard: on an eminence surrounded by picturesque calcareous rocks. From +the inn walk past the church St. Etienne, then turn to the left, and +having gone down the avenue ascend the double stair leading up to the +beautiful terrace, on which, to the left, stands the Cathedral, and to +the right, projecting from the +100 + +balustrade, the little house with about 9 yards of frontage, in which +Racine resided with his uncle, a canon of the cathedral. Below, in +the deep narrow valley, is the stream Eure, which once supplied the +Roman aqueduct at Nîmes. At the S.W. corner of the church rises from a +square basement a circular campanile, 12th cent., in six stages, of +which five are composed of eight blind round arches, each pierced by +twin open arches resting on an impost column. On the top is a low tiled +roof, partly hidden by an embrasure-like parapet. On the north side of +the church is the bishop’s palace, now the Sous-Préfecture, and the seat +of the tribunal. Looking from the top of the stairs towards the town the +most prominent objects are the large dungeon-tower of the castle, with +turrets on three of the corners; the Tour Carrée de l’Horloge, +surmounted by an iron grating and a bell; and the Tour de Prison. The +octagonal tower, crowned with an image of the Virgin, rises from the +École des Frères, and the low square tower from the church of St. +Etienne. At the other end of the promenade is the bronze statue by Duret +of Admiral Comte de Brueys, né à Uzès le 11 Fevrier 1753. Mort à Aboukir +(battle of the Nile) le 2 Aout 1798. Now walk up the street to the +Marché au Blé, with a pretty bronze fountain opposite the Mairie and +Post Office. Behind the Mairie is the entrance to the castle called Le +Duché, which has for centuries belonged to the family of Crussol, Ducs +d’Uzès. Fee for a party 1 fr. On entering, to the right is the Tour +de la Chapelle, 13th cent., restored; to the left, the dungeon tower, +11th cent., ascended by 248 steps, commanding an extensive prospect; and +in front the façade, 16th cent., by P. Delorme. The ground-floor of +the “Tour de la Chapelle” contains the family vaults. Over the tombs is +a large crucifix made in England; the figure is of bronze and the cross +of copper. Above is the chapel. Of the house the best part is the stair, +vaulted throughout and covered with sculptured stone panels. The best +wines in the department are grown in the neighbourhood of Uzès. Besides +the railway, Uzès is connected by a good diligence with Bagnols, +17 m. E. on the railway of the west side of the Rhône, 19 m. +N. from the Pont d’Avignon, and 7½ m. S. from Pont-St. Esprit. + +Sernhac-Lédenon. + +After Remoulins the train halts at the station Sernhac-Lédenon. +Lédenon, pop. 700, is about 2 m. W. from the station, and +Sernhac, pop. 1200, about the same distance E. 7 m. from +Nîmes is the St. Gervasy-Bezouce station, and 2½ m. nearer, +Marguerittes, pop. 2000, with a handsome modern church, and in the +cemetery the ruins of the chapel of St. Gilles, 12th cent., seen from +railway. + +101 + + +Nîmes. + + +opp. 101 +plan of Nîmes + + +172 m. S.W. from Lyons, 27½ m. S.W. from Avignon, 31 m. N.E. +from Montpellier by Gallargues, 17 m. W. from Tarascon, 80 m. +N.W. from Marseilles, and 450 m. S.E. from Paris by +Clermont-Ferrand, is + +NÎMES, + +population 64,000, on the Vistre, 150 feet above the sea. +A flight of steps as at Tarascon leads from the town up to the +station. At the foot of these steps is the Hôtel des Arts, pretty +comfortable room 2 frs., dinner with wine 3 frs. The trams +start from in front of the house. In the town are: On the Esplanade, the +H. Luxembourg, the most expensive. By the side of it, fronting a +garden, the H. du Midi or Durand, from 9 to 12 frs. Fronting the +amphitheatre the Cheval Blanc, commercial, 8 to 10 frs. Opposite the +Maison Carrée, the H. Manivet, 9 to 12 frs., the most conveniently +situated for visiting the sights. Their omnibuses await passengers at +the foot of the station stair. Post Office, No. 4 B. du Grand Cours, +between St. Baudine and the Public Gardens. Telegraph Office in the +Place de la Salamandre, a small “Place” off the B. des Calquières. +Temple Protestant, the Porte d’Auguste, and the handsome new church of +St. Baudine, with its two elegant spires, are at the north end of the B. +des Calquières, beyond the Esplanade. + +_Sights._—The Amphitheatre, the Maison Carrée, and the +Roman Baths. _Cab Stands_ are found at the station, at the +Amphitheatre, and at the Maison Carrée. Cab carrying 4, 2 frs. per +hour. + +A straight, wide, and handsome avenue extends from the station to the +Esplanade; having in the centre a large fountain with four marble +colossal statues by Pradier round the base, representing the Rhône, the +Gardon, and the fountain nymphs of Nemausa and Ura. On the top of the +pedestal is a larger statue, also by Pradier, representing Nîmes, with +its face towards the station. Behind it are the Palais de Justice and +the Amphitheatre, and to the left the church of St. Perpetua. + +Nîmes: Amphitheatre. + +The great sight in Nîmes is the Roman Amphitheatre, the most perfect +extant. In form it is elliptical, of which the great axis measures 437 +ft., and the lesser 433 ft., and the height 70 ft. Around the building +are two tiers of arcades, each tier having 60 arches, and all the arches +being separated from each other by a Roman Doric column. Above runs an +attic, from which project the consoles on which the beams that sustained +the awning rested. Within each arcade, on the ground-floor and on the +upper story, runs a corridor round the building, the upper one being +roofed with stone slabs 18 ft. long, reaching +102 + +from side to side. There were four entrances, one facing each of the +cardinal points of the compass. The interior contained 32 rows of seats +in 4 zones, capable of accommodating from 18,000 to 20,000 spectators. +The lowest zone corresponded to the dress circle, the others to the +galleries. The present entrance is from the western side, fee 50 c., +opposite No. 8 Place des Arènes. The stair that leads up to the top is +under the fifth arch west. No description can express the sensation +experienced from contemplating this vast Roman structure from the +highest tier or from the edge of the outside wall. At the same time it +must be remembered that there are no railings, and that an inadvertent +step might have serious consequences. The date of the building is +uncertain. Titus, Adrian, and Antoninus Pius have each been conjectured +to have been the founder. The Visigoths converted it into a fortress, +the Castrum Arenarum, occupied by the Saracens at the beginning of the +8th cent., till driven from France by the armies Charles of Martel; died +in 715. + +On the N. side of the amphitheatre is the Boulevard St. Antoine, +with, on the left hand or W. side, the Palais des Beaux Arts, including +the Public Library, containing 60,000 vols.; the Archæological Museum, +containing many interesting articles, chiefly Roman, found in the +neighbourhood; and the Picture Gallery, containing, among other +pictures, a Magdalene by Guido; A Holy Family, a Head of +John the Baptist, and a portrait of himself, by Titian; A Head of a +Girl and a Return from Hunting, by Rubens; Portraits of Vanloo and of +his mother, by himself; Cromwell regarding Charles I. laid out in +his coffin, by Paul Delaroche, his chef d’œuvre; “Nero and a Sorceress +experimenting on a slave with the poison they were preparing for +Britannicus,” by Javier Sigalon; An old woman, by Greuze; also works by +Gérard Dow, Claude Lorrain, Metzu, Ostade, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, Van +den Welde, and Wouvermans. + +At the N. end of this Boulevard is the church of St. Paul, with +frescoes on gold and blue grounds by H. and P. Flandrin. + +Nîmes: La Maison Carrée. Cathedral. + +Beyond are the Theatre and the Bourse, and opposite them La Maison +Carrée, a beautiful specimen of a Roman temple, probably +part of the Forum, with which it was connected by colonnades extending +east and west. It is 75 ft. long, 39 wide, and 39 high, and is supposed +to have been erected in the time of Antoninus Pius. It stands on a +platform, and is encompassed by a quadrilateral peristyle of 30 +Roman-Corinthian columns surmounted by a plain architrave, scroll +frieze, sculptured dentils, and a fluted cornice. All the columns are +attached, +103 + +excepting the ten which support the pediment. In the area within the +railing are mutilated statues and fragments of Roman columns. + +Eastward, in the centre of the old town, is the Cathedral St. Castor, built in +the 11th cent., but nearly rebuilt in subsequent times. The most +venerable portion is the façade, constructed of large blocks of stone. +A delicately-cut frieze, representing scenes from Genesis, extends +under the roof. The eaves of the pediment are supported by brackets with +acanthus leaves. The table of the third altar, right hand, in the +interior, is sculptured in much the same style as the exterior +frieze. + +Nîmes: Roman Baths. Tourmagne. Fort. + +N.W. from the Maison Carrée is the Public Garden, adorned with vases +and statues among shrubs and flowers, overshadowed by tall elm and plane +trees. To the left are the remains of a temple or fane (called the +temple of Diana), dedicated to the Nymphs, built b.c. 24, of huge carefully-hewn blocks of sandstone, +and reduced to its present state in 1577. The little of the ornamental +work that remains is very much mutilated. Opposite the temple, protected +from the troublesome winds of Nîmes, are the Roman Baths, +about 12 ft. below the level of the gardens, the vaulting being +supported on small columns, over which rise open stone balustrades. +Adjoining is the copious spring that supplies them, as placid but +somewhat larger than the Fontaine of Vaucluse +(p. 65). + +From the fountain a road leads up the wooded slopes of Mont Cavalier +to an octagonal structure called the Tourmagne, 90 ft. high, erected before the +Roman invasion, and supposed to have been a tomb. It was originally +filled with rubble, which was excavated in the 16th cent. in search of +treasure. The winding staircase of 140 steps was added in 1843. The view +from the top is extensive. Fee, 30 cents. + +Eastward from the Tourmagne is the Fort, built by Louis XIV., now the town prison. +On the western side of the fort are the remains of the reservoir, +_castellum divisorium_, which received the water brought by the +canal from the aqueduct of the Pont-du-Gard. This canal still brings +water to the town reservoir, on the opposite or east side of the +fort. + +In the year of Rome 788 a strong wall was built round Nîmes, 7 ft. +high, pierced with 10 gates; of which there still remain two; the Porte +d’Auguste, originally fronting the road to Rome, now at the E. end of +the Temple Protestant, and the Porte de France at the extremity of the +Rue Carrètérie. (See plan.) + +The ancient name of Nîmes is Nemausus, one of the cities of Gallia +104 + +Narbonensis, and the capital of the Volcæ Arecomici. As early as the +reign of Augustus it was a “colonia,” and possessed in the days of +Strabo the “Jus Latii,” and therefore was independent of the +Roman governors. Its most notable product then was cheese, which was +exported to Rome; now it is raw silk, for which it is the principal +emporium in the south of France. The wines of Nîmes are in repute in +Paris, particularly the Costière and the St. Gilles, called also Vin de +Remède. Both deteriorate after the sixth year in bottle. Nicot, who +introduced tobacco into France, and Guizot, the minister of Louis +Philippe, were born at Nîmes. + +Pont-du-Gard. + +13½ miles from Nîmes is the Pont-du-Gard, built by the Romans in the reign +of Augustus as part of the aqueduct, 25 m. long, which, from the +neighbourhood of Uzès (page 99), brought the +waters of the Eure and Airan to the reservoir beside the fort, of which +only vestiges now remain. This “Pont,” which spans the valley or banks +of the river Gardon, consists of three rows of arches, whose total +height above the bed of the river is 156 ft. The two lower stories are +formed of hewn stones, placed together without the aid of any cement; +but the mason work underneath the channel of the third or top story is +of rough stones cemented, by which all filtration was prevented. The +first or lowest row consists of six arches, with a span of 60 ft. each, +except the largest, which has 75 ft. The second row consists of eleven +arches of the same dimensions as the first, and the third of 35 arches +of 15 ft. span. A stair from the right bank of the river leads up +to the watercourse above the topmost tier of arches. In the striking +boldness of its design this bridge exhibits a decided improvement and +superiority over all the other Roman aqueducts. The arches are wider, +and the piers in proportion lighter, and had the same principle been +extended so as to have formed it of one single row from top to bottom, +it would have equalled in the skill and disposition of its materials the +more judicious and more elegant structures of modern times (see Roquefavour, p. 77). Take ticket to +Pont-du-Gard Station. But if with luggage, and on the way to Avignon, +take ticket to Remoulins, where leave the luggage, and take another +ticket to the Pont-du-Gard, which having visited, walk back to Remoulins +station, where take ticket for Pont Avignon (see under Avignon, p. 64). + +79 m. S.E. from Nîmes by rail is Marseilles (p. 111), passing +Tarascon, 17 m. (p. 66), and Arles, 25 m. (p. 68). + + +105 + + +Valleraugue. + +NÎMES TO MILLAU BY VIGAN. + + +See Map, p. 26. + +58 m. N.W. by rail from Nîmes is Vigan, whence coach 43 m. W., 9 hrs., to Millau, +on the line to Paris by Rodez. There are no towns of importance on this +line, though some parts, especially towards Vigan, are very picturesque. +27 m. from Vigan, and 31 from Nîmes, is Quissac, pop. 1800, +junction with line to Lezan, 9 m. N., and thence 4½ m. E. to +Mas des Gard, on the Nîmes and Alais line. 9 m. W. from Lezan is +St. Hippolyte-Le-Fort, pop. 4500, on the sluggish Vidourle. From this +the line goes westward by La Cadière to Ganges, 9½ m. from Vigan, +on the Hérault, 595 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000, H. Croix Blanche, +omnibus at station. The most pleasant town on the line. 2½ m. +farther is Jumène, 682 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000, with coal and iron +mines. 4 m. from Vigan, at Le Pont, 666 ft. above the sea, the line +crosses the Hérault, and entering the picturesque valley of the Arre +follows the course of that river to Vigan, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ +Voyageurs; Cheval Blanc; both in the “Place,” near the statue of the +Chevalier d’Assas, born at Vigan in 1733, and “Mort glorieusement à +Clastercamp à 27 ans.” Vigan on the Arre, an affluent of the Hérault, is +860 ft. above the sea, in a hollow between steep mountains, with +terraces of vineyards, olive, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees to +nearly their summits. The town consists of narrow, crooked, badly-paved +streets. The hospital was founded in 1190. In the promenade near the +post office are some old chestnut trees, disfigured with knots. In the +neighbourhood are several coal-pits, worked, however, with difficulty, +on account of the water they contain. Nearly a mile westward is the +Fontaine Isis, the source of the water-supply of the town. Beside it are +the cold sulphureous springs of Cauvalat. + +Valleraugue. + +Coach daily to Valleraugue, _Inn:_ Aresque, 14 m. +N., in a very picturesque region, on the Hérault, in a deep wooded +valley between the Aigoual mountains towards the N., and the Espéron +mountains towards the S. The principal source of the Hérault is a +little higher, towards the W., at Séreyrède. From Valleraugue the ascent +is made in about 2½ hours of Mt. Aulas, 4665 ft. above the sea, the +culminating point of the Espéron, commanding a magnificent view. The +source of the Dourbie is just a little to the S. of Valleraugue, and of +the Tarn to the N., but on the other side of the Aigoual. Excellent +fishing, botanising, and geologising in this neighbourhood. + +Larzac. + +Le Vigan to +Millau, 43 m. W. by diligence, 9 hrs. The first village the +coach passes is Molières, on a hill above the road, with coal-mines. +From this the road ascends to the villages of Esparron, 5½ m., and Arre, +6¼ m., from Vigan. A little higher up the coach leaves by a +tunnel the valley of the Arre, and enters that of the Vis, with the +village Alzon, 12½ m. from Vigan, pop. 900. _Inn:_ the +Souterraine, the best on the road. After a pretty steep ascent of +7 m. the coach arrives at Sauclières, pop. 2200, _Inn:_ +H. du Nord, producing excellent +106 + +pork, cheese, and potatoes. The coach from this ascends the southern +side of the Lenglas mountains, covered with vineyards, olive and +mulberry trees, and farther up forests of chestnut trees. From the other +side of the ridge it descends to the valley of the Dourbie, in which is +St. Jean du Bruel, pop. 2000, _Inn:_ Commerce, 23 m. from +Vigan and 20 from Millau. The coach having traversed the valley of the +Dourbie, full of chestnut trees, reaches Nant, pop. 2000, a poor +village, on an eminence, 16 m. from Millau. Shortly afterwards the +diligence crosses the monotonous tableland of Larzac, 2790 ft. above the sea, and arrives at the +village of La Cavalerie, with some small dolmens. 7 m. W. is +Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez. + + + + + +The Riviera: Itineraries +The Riviera: Maps +The Riviera: Text + +General Index + + + +ITINERARY +(pages 107–280) + +THE RIVIERA. + +The Riviera. Hotels, productions, +climate +107 + +Marseilles. Hotels, trams, sights, +excursions +111 + +MARSEILLES to MENTON. +The French Riviera +122 + +Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty +little towns, of which the most important is La +Seyne (p. 123). From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the +neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in the interior. The +most start from the Place d’Italie +(pp. 124 and 129). + +Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. +of the Place Puget (p. 128), to +Hyères from the Place Puget (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place d’Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place d’Italie (p. 128). + +Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by +Belgentier, by diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a +picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau and Pierrefeu +(p. 130). + +Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (p. 127), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or (pp. 124, 131). + +The Iles d’Or. Porquerolles, +Port-Cros, Ile du Levant +131 + +Toulon to Hyères +132 + +Hyères. Hotels, cabs, drives, +stage-coaches, excursions, productions, climate +133 + +Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p. 141); to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez (p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or coach to Le Luc (p. 144). + +La Pauline. Diligence and train to +Hyères +142 + +Carnoules. Carnoules to Gardanne by +rail, passing Brignoles and Ste. Maximin +142 + +Le Luc. Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, +across the Maure mountains +144 + +Les Arcs to Draguignan by rail. From Draguignan diligences +start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at +these towns with other diligences +145 + +Cannes to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet, +(p. 154), to Cap d’Antibes +(p. 154), to Castelaras (p. 156), +to Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p. 155), to Estérel (p. 155), to Grasse +(p. 160), to the Iles de Lerins +(p. 156), to Mougins (p. 156), to +Napoule and Theoule +(p. 155), to Pégomas (p. 156), to +St. Cassien (p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and Californie (p. 152). + +Grasse to Cagnes by Le Bar, +the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p. 165), Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx +and Manosque (p. 166). + +Nice to St. Martin Lantosque by +coach, and thence to Cuneo by the Col di Finestra +180 + +Nice to Puget-Theniers and +Saint Sauveur by coach. From St. Sauveur an +excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (map, p. 165). +182 + +Nice to Cuneo by the tunnel of +the Col di Tenda +182 + +Savona to Turin by Carru, +Bra, Cavallermaggiore and Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. +183 + +Beaulieu to Port St. Jean and the Lighthouse—a +pleasant walk +185 + +Monte Carlo to Nice by the coast-road +189 + +Monaco to La +Turbie and the Tête de Chien +191 + +MENTON to GENOA—the +western part of the Italian Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente +200 + +Bordighera, up the valley of the Nervia, to Pigna +201 + +San +Remo to Monte Bignone +205 + +GENOA to PISA and +LEGHORN—the eastern Italian Riviera, or the Riviera di Levante +219 + +Avenza to Carrara by rail—a very +easy and interesting excursion +222 + +Pisa to +Florence by Pontedera and Empoli (map, +p. 199) +227 + +Pisa to +Florence by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato +227 + +Lucca to the Baths +of Lucca +230 + +Florence to Vallombrosa +277 + +Genoa to +Turin by Alessandria—a very interesting railway journey +279 + +END OF THE RIVIERA. + + + + +MAPS AND PLANS +(pages 107–280) + + +page + +Cannes, Environs of +155 + +Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes. + +Cannes, Plan of +149 + +Corniche Road +185 + +Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as +well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice +and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the +railway. + +This map contains also the Environs of Nice, Monaco, and +Menton. + +Estérel Mountains, or Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes +146 + +Florence, Plan of +234 + +The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza +Michelangiolo. + +Galleria degli Uffizi +237 + +The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both +sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi +straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace +by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini. + +Genoa, Plan of +214 + +Hyères, Environs of +129 + +As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the +environs of both towns are given on the same map. + +Italian Riviera, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn +199 + +Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The +French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts +on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to +Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.” + +Leghorn, Plan of +226 + +Marseilles, Plan of +113 + +Marseilles to Cannes +123 + +This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and +in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which, +from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side +are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of Hyères,” of which +the largest is Porquerolles. + +Nice, Plan of +171 + +Pisa, Plan of +224 + +The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided +to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo +or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the +cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain +over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station. + +Savona to Rapallo +211 + +Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano, +Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo. + +The Durance to the Var and San Remo +163 + +This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior, +approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. +From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy. + +The Italian Riviera or north-west Italy, including the +railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence +200 + +Thermometer, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale +107 + +Toulon, Environs of +129 + +This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small +steamers sailing from the port. + + + + +107 + + +THE RIVIERA. + + + +HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE. + + +thermometer in Fahrenheit and Centigrade + +The Riviera is a strip of land +extending 323 miles along the coast of the Mediterranean at the foot of +the Maritime Alps and their off-shoots. It is usually divided into two +portions—the Riviera from Hyères to Genoa, 203 miles long; and the +Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 miles long. +Temperature. +The milder and more frequented of the two is the former—the +Western Riviera—which has been subjected to most careful and +minute meteorological observations, and the various stations classified +according to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203 +miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station in +all its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more from +each other than the stations themselves. Yet each station has some +peculiarity which suits some people more than others; this peculiarity +being more often accidental and social—such as the people met +with, the lodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little +things which exercise a more powerful influence upon the health and +well-being of the mind and body than the mere fractional difference of +temperature. None of the protecting mountains of any of the stations are +sufficiently high, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds +when the higher mountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges +have deep indentations through which the cold air, as well as the +streams, descends to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold +winds, and all delicate persons must ever be on their guard against +them—the more +108 + +sunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater is +the danger. All the stations suffer also, more or less, from the famous +Mistral, a north-west wind, which in winter on the Riviera +feels like a north-west wind on a sunny summer day in Scotland. The mean +winter temperature (November, December, and January) of Hyères, +considered the coolest of the winter stations, is 47°.4 Fahr., and of +San Remo, considered the mildest, 48°.89 Fahr. The coldest months are +December and January. With February the temperature commences to rise +progressively. Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is +the rule, cloudy and wet weather the exception. +Vegetation. +“In December wild flowers are rare till after Christmas, when the +long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone, and the violet make their +appearance. These by the end of January have become abundant, and are +quickly followed in February by crocuses, primroses, and pretty blue +hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones are springing up in the +olive-woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones. In March the +hillsides are fragrant with thyme, lavender, and the Mediterranean +heath, to which April adds cistuses, helianthemums, convolvuli, +serapiases, and gladioli.” —_H. S. Roberton_. There is a +much less quantity of wild flowers now than formerly. The date-palm +flourishes in the open air. Capital walking-sticks are made of the +midrib of the leaf. Among the trees which fructify freely are the +orange, lemon, and citron trees, the pepper tree (_Schinus molle_), +the camphor tree (_Ligustrum ovalifolium_), the locust tree +(_Ceratona siliqua_), the Tree Veronica, the magnolia, and +different species of the Eucalyptus or gum tree and of the true Acacia. +In marshy places the common bamboo (_Arundo donax_) attains a great +height; while the _Sedum dasyphyllum_, the aloe, and the Opuntium +or prickly-pear, clothe the dry rocky banks with verdure. The most +important tree commercially is the olive, which occupies the lower part +of the mountains and immense tracts in the valleys. The higher +elevations are divided among the cork tree (_Quercus suber_), the +Maritime, Aleppo, and umbrella pines, and the chestnut tree. The +Japanese medlar (_Eriobotrya japonica_) is common in the orchards, +flowers in December, and ripens its fruit in May. With the exception of +the orange, lemon, and cherry, all the other orchard trees ripen their +fruit too late for the winter resident. + +_The Riviera:_ +Cost of Living. + +On the Riviera generally, but especially in Hyères, St. Raphael, +Grasse, and Menton, board and lodging in good hotels can be had for 8s. +or 9s. per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, and a +substantial meat breakfast and dinner, with country wine (vin +109 + +ordinaire) to both. In some boarding-houses (Pensions) the price per day +is as low as 6s. If two are together, especially two ladies or a +gentleman and his wife, an excellent plan is to take a furnished room, +which, with a south exposure and good furniture, ought to cost about £2 +per month. They can easily prepare their own breakfast, and they can get +their dinner sent to them. If the party be numerous, apartments should +be taken, which vary from £2 to £30 per month. For the season, from +October to May, furnished apartments are let at prices varying from £18 +to £100. As a general rule it is best to alight at some hotel, and, +while on the spot, to select either the pension or apartments, as no +description can give an adequate idea of the state of the drains nor of +the people of the house. A maid-servant costs nearly £1 per month, +a cook about one-half more, but they are not easily managed. Fluids +are sold by the litre, equal to nearly a quart of four (not six) to the +gallon. Solids are sold by the kilogramme, or, as it is generally +called, the kilo, equal to 2 lbs. 3¼ oz. + +Bread is about the same price as in England. The best beef and mutton +cost from 1s. 10d. to 2s. the kilo. A good chicken 2s. 6d. Eggs +when at their dearest cost 1½d. each. Excellent milk costs 4d. the +litre. The best butter 3s. 2d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. Of French cheese +there are a great many kinds, all very good. Among the best are the +Roquefort and the fromage bleu, both resembling Stilton, and cost from +2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. +_The Riviera:_ Fish. +Vegetables. +Fish are dearer than in England. The best caught off the coast are: the +Rouget or Red Mullet, the Dorade or Bream, the Loup or Bass, the +Sardine, and the Anchovy. The Gray Mullet, the Gurnard (Grondin), the +John Dory (Dorée Commune), the Whiting (Merlan), and the Conger are very +fair. The sole, turbot, tunny, and mackerel are inferior to those caught +in the ocean. The cuttle-fish is also eaten. Good vegetables can +be had all through the winter, such as carrots, leeks, celery, cabbage, +cauliflower, peas, lettuce, spinage, sorrel, and artichokes. The cardon +(_Cynara cardunculus_) and salsifis (_Tragopogon porrifolius_) +are often served up at dinner in the hotels. The cardon tastes like +celery, but the salsifis has a bitter flavour. The potatoes are of good +quality, but often spoilt in the cooking. In all the stations are +English clergymen, physicians, apothecaries, bankers, bakers, and +grocers. + +_The Riviera:_ +Advantages. + +Before commencing to treat in detail the different stations of the +Riviera, “some of the general advantages of the invalid’s life in this +region must be noticed. The chief of these is the amount of sunshine +which he enjoys for weeks and even months together, when the sun +110 + +often rises in a cloudless sky, shines for several hours with a +brightness and warmth surpassing that of the British summer, and then +sinks without a cloud behind the secondary ranges of the Maritime Alps, +displaying in his setting the beautiful and varied succession of tints +which characterise that glorious phenomenon of the refraction of light, +a southern sunset; when he imparts to the rugged mountains a +softness of outline and a brilliancy of colouring which defy +description. In the early stages of phthisis, and especially when the +patient is young and active-minded, struck down by overwork or sudden +exposure, this cheering influence is most beneficial. It is of great +importance that, while taking the needful care of himself, he should not +degenerate at an early age into a hopeless valetudinarian, especially as +an every-day increasing mass of evidence warrants us in believing that +under the influence of medicine and climate a large number of these +patients gradually recover their health and lead useful lives, and, with +due care, lives of no inconsiderable duration. Patients should never +neglect to consult a doctor on their first arrival, as his experience +and advice with regard to lodgings, food, etc., are of great value, and +may often prevent them from falling into bad hands, or settling in +unhealthy localities.” To these remarks of Dr. Williams may be added, +that patients should bring with them a letter from their physician +describing their case and the treatment he thinks should be adopted. + +The best time for walking and driving is between 9 and 12, as then +there is rarely either wind or dust. For invalids requiring quiet sunny +walks there are no stations on the whole coast so suitable as Hyères and +Bordighera. + +_The Riviera:_ +Sea-bathing. Doctors’ Fees. + +_Sea-bathing_ on the Riviera may be +continued with advantage by many during the greater part of the winter +season. As the rise and fall of the tide are so trifling, the beach is +always in a fit state for the bather. The water of the Mediterranean is +more highly mineralised than that of the ocean. It contains about 41 per +cent of common salt. + +_Doctors’ +Fees._—French doctors charge their countrymen generally 10 +frs. for each visit. English doctors charge for each visit 5, 10, or 20 +frs., according to what they suppose to be the means of their patients. +An extra charge is made for night work. + +Tourists may find it convenient to take with them a little brandy, +tea, arrowroot, Liebig’s extract, Gregory’s mixture, opium pills, and a +little of whatever medicine they are in the habit of using. The ordinary +wine at the hotels is neither so good nor so safe as formerly, and +should always be watered. + +111 + + +Marseilles. + + +opp. 113 +plan of Marseilles + + +MARSEILLES. + +MARSEILLES, pop. 319,000, 15 hrs. 25 min. from Paris, and 6 +hrs. 37 min. from Lyons. From Cannes it is 4 hrs. 31 min., and from Nice +5 hrs. 27 min. 536½ m. S. from Paris, 190¼ m. S. from Lyons, +120½ m. W. from Cannes, and 140 m. W. from Nice. On the +departure side of the railway station is the Terminus Hotel +(dear). The hotel omnibuses await passengers. Call out loudly the name +of the hotel desired, to which the driver of its omnibus will +respond. + +A plentiful supply of Cabs is both at the railway and the +custom-house station of the Bassin de la Joliette. Each coachman is +furnished with an official tariff, which, though constantly changing, +may be stated to be—Between 6 a.m. and midnight, for a cab with one horse, the +course, 1 fr.; the hour, 2 frs. With 2 horses, the course, 1¼ +fr.; the hour, 2¼ frs. From midnight to 6 a.m. 75 c. extra. Portmanteaus not above 30 kilo., +or 68⅘ lbs., 25 c. each. The hotel omnibuses charge each passenger +1 fr. + +_Hotels._—In the Rue Cannebière, +ascending from the Port, are very fine Cafés, and in the eastern +continuation of it, the Rue Noailles, the best Hotels. The Hôtel +du Louvre et de la Paix; the Hôtel Noailles; and the Hôtel Marseilles; +all near each other, and charging from 12 to 20 frs. per day. + +Less luxurious and expensive are: the Petit Louvre, No. 16 R. +Cannebière, over the office of Messageries Maritimes steamboats; between +the Port and the Bourse, the Hôtel de Genève, a comfortable house; +on the opposite side of the Rue Cannebière and near the opera house, the +Hôtel Beauveau; near it, in the R. Vacon, the *Hôtel des +Colonies. + +In and about the Cours Belsunce, where there are a large cab-stand +and an important tramway terminus, are some good second-class hotels, of +which the best is the Hotel des Phocéens, 28 R. des Récolettes. Rooms, +2½ frs.; Dinner, 3½ frs. with wine. Next it, at No. 26, is the Hôtel de +l’Europe, a “maison meublée,” in which good rooms, including +service, cost 2 frs. Breakfast and dinner can be had in the +neighbouring restaurants. Of them, one of the most comfortable is +G. Restaurant des Gourmets, adjoining the hotel. Near it is the +Restaurant Bouches du Rhône, a cheap house. The other second-class +houses in the Cours Belsunce which can be recommended are—the +Californie; Deux Mondes; Hotel St. Marie; Négociants; Alger. The Hôtel +du Cours is good also, but it is only a “maison meublée.” The +continuation of the Cours Belsunce is called the Cours St. Louis, where +a flower-market +112 + +is held. Just off this Cours, in the Rue d’Aubagne, is a cheap, good, +and clean house, the hotel and restaurant St. Louis; rooms from 1½ to +3 frs.; dinner, à la carte. At No. 8 Place de Rome is a good and +cheap house, the Hôtel Forer, well situated, but it is one of those for +which either a cab or the general omnibus must be taken at the +station. + +Marseilles: Steamboats. Custom-House. + +_Steamboats._—The steamers of the +Messageries Maritimes, of Morelli et Cie, of Fraissinet et +Cie, of the P. and O. Navigation Co., etc., arrive and +depart from the Dock or Bassin Joliette. The custom-house is at the north end of the +dock, and just outside the dock-gates are porters and a large cab-stand. +The custom-house contains one waiting-room for the first and second +class, and another for the third. Passengers before they can have their +baggage examined have to pay 6 sous at the end of the baggage-room for +each box, for which they receive an acknowledgment. A tramway runs +from No. 1 Quai Joliette to Longchamps, entering the Port and the Rue +Cannebière by the R. de la République. There are no hotels near the +steamboat station. + +Small boats’ station at the head of the Port. Boats to and from the +Château d’If, 8 frs. from 3 to 3½ hrs. On feast days small +steamers make the round of the islands, starting from nearly the same +place, but do not land the passengers, fare ½ fr., time 1 hr. At this +part of the quay the feluccas from Spain discharge their cargoes of +oranges and other fruits. From the Hôtel de Ville (1 in plan) on +the port, the Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Place aux Huiles +opposite, 1 sou. At the mouth of the port, from between La Consigne and +the Fort St. Jean, other Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Bassin +Carénage, by the side of Fort St. Nicholas, and just below the +interesting old church of St. Victor, 1 sou. From this a road leads up +to Notre Dame. + +The principal Temple Protestant is in the R. Vincent, No. 2. +There is another in the R. Grignan, No. 15, near the General Post +Office at No. 53. Poste-Restante, “guichet,” on the ground-floor, +opposite the entrance door. Telegraph office, No. 10 Rue Pavé d’Amour. +Anglican chapel, No. 100 Rue Sylvabelle, south from the Rue Grignan and +parallel to it. The public library is in the Boulevard du Musée, in the +École des Beaux Arts. Open daily except Sunday. + +Best money-changers by the west side of the Bourse, 10 in plan. + +The Opera is near the Port; the other theatres are around the Rue +Noailles. + +Marseilles: Sights. Trams. + +Sights.—Palais Longchamp, an +artistic edifice, containing the Picture Gallery and the Natural +History Museum; free. Closed on Mondays and every day between 12 and +2 (see p. 114). Near the +113 + +Palais is the Zoological Garden, free on Sundays. Notre Dame de la Garde (p. 116). The +shops and cafés in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles. A drive on the +Corniche road. + +Of all the Trams the most important starts from the +left of the statue in the Cours Belsunce, and runs by the Château des +Fleurs and the Prado to its Bonneveine terminus, a little beyond +the racecourse. Just behind the Bonneveine terminus is the Château Borély, +containing the Musée d’Archéologie, including a collection of Phoenician +relics found in the neighbourhood, which support the hypothesis of the +Phoenician origin of Marseilles. Open on Sundays and Thursdays. On the +ground-floor are Roman mosaics, busts, altars, tombstones, jewellery, +mummies; and in the end room is a stone with a Phoenician inscription, +regulating the tariff of the prices to be paid to the priests for +sacrifices in the temple of Baal. Upstairs are collections of antique +glass, necklaces, fayence from Provence and Marseilles, bronzes, gold +jewellery, lamps, vases, weapons, and an octagonal plan of Marseilles 18 +ft. in diameter. + +Marseilles: Corniche. Bouillabaisse. + +Return from the Bonneveine terminus by the tram for the Place de +Rome, near 12 in plan. On its way it follows the Corniche +road, considered the most beautiful drive about Marseilles, fare ½ fr. +The gardens and pleasure-grounds in the whole of this neighbourhood are +due to the irrigation afforded by the canal. Of the bathing +establishments on the Corniche road the best is the Roucas Blanc; and of +the restaurants the best is the Hotel Roubion, a first-class house, +charging 15 frs. per day, and for vin ordinaire, lights, and service, +5 frs. additional. The house is situated on an eminence rising from +the Corniche road, at the entrance into the Vallon de l’Oriol, commands +a splendid sea view, has handsome dining-rooms, and is famed for its +fish dinners and Bouillabaisse. Trams and omnibuses are constantly +passing it. This establishment, as well as most of the other restaurants +along the Corniche road, has tanks in the rocks on the beach, in which +is kept a supply of live fish to make the Provence dish called Bouillabaisse, +a kind of fish soup, which, like most national +dishes—plum-pudding, puchero, haggis, etc.—admits of +considerable latitude in the preparation. The essentials are—whole +rascasses and chapons (scorpion fishes), and rock lobsters stewed in a +liquor mixed with a little of the best olive oil, and flavoured with +tender savoury herbs. An extra good Bouillabaisse should include also +crayfish, a few mussels, and some pieces of any first-class fish, +such as the bass. + +Marseilles: Palais de Longchamp. + +Those having little time to devote to Marseilles should, after taking +114 + +a short stroll about the Port and in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles, +enter the Joliette tram on its way up to the Palais de Longchamp, fare 2 +sous. The Palais de Longchamp, which cost +£165,000, consists of two rectangular wings, united by a semicircular +colonnade of Ionic volute-fluted columns. In the centre, under a +richly-sculptured massive archway, an inscription records that the great +undertaking of bringing the water of the Durance to Marseilles was begun +on the 15th November 1839, and was accomplished on the 8th July 1847, in +the reign of Louis Philippe I. Another records that the palace was +commenced in the reign of Napoleon III., on the 7th April 1862, and +finished on the 15th August 1869. From a group of colossal bulls under +the colonnade gushes a copious stream of water, which in its descent +makes a cascade of 90 ft. in three stages. The wing to the right, +standing with the face to the palace, contains the Natural History +Museum; and the other, the picture and sculpture galleries. + +All the pictures are labelled. On the first floor are some large +pictures by French artists and a few statues. In the second small room +left hand is a collection of sketches by famous painters. Among the best +pictures in the large centre hall of the upper story are:—F. Bol, +d. 1681, portrait of woman and of King of Poland; Bourdon, +d. 1671, portrait of P. de Champaigne; Cesari, d. 1640, Noah +inebriated; Fontenay, d. 1715, Fruit; Girodet, d. 1824, Fruit; +Gongo, d. 1764, Sacrifice to Venus and Jupiter; Greuze, +d. 1805, portrait; Holbein, d. 1554, portrait; Loo, +d. 1745, portrait of lady; Maratta, d. 1713, Cardinal Cibo; +Mignard, d. 1695, Ninon de Lenclos; Nattier, d. 1766, Mme. de +Pompadour as Aurora; Peeters, d. 1652, marine scene; Pellegrino, +d. 1525, Holy Family; Perugino, d. 1524, Holy Family; +F. Porbus, d. 1584, portrait; Raphael, d. 1520, St. John; +Rembrandt, d. 1669, A Prophetess (sibyl); Reni, d. 1642, +The Protectors of Milan; Ribera, d. 1656, Juan de Porcida; Rigaud, +d. 1745, Duc de Villars; Rubens, d. 1640, Wild-boar Hunt; +Salvator Rosa, d. 1675, Hermit; Veronese, d. 1588, Venetian +princess; Zurbaran, d. 1662, St. Francis. In the room to the right +is the “École Provençal,” containing, among other +paintings—Barry, The Bosphorus; Duparc, d. 1778, The +Milkmaid, and portraits of old man, woman, and girl knitting; Papety, +d. 1849, “La Vierge Consolatrice”; P. Puget, Madonna. In the +left room are, among others, J. F. Millet, b. 1815, Woman +feeding Child. + +The most important parts of the Museum of Natural History are the +conchological division and the collection of ammonites. + +115 + + +From the Palace gardens is a good view of Marseilles. Behind the +palace, on the top of the hill, is the great reservoir 242 ft. above the +sea, supplied with water from the main channel by a branch canal. (See +under Roquefavour, p. 77.) At this part of +the hill is one of the entrances to the Zoological Gardens; free on +Sundays, when they are crowded with people. Near the entrance is the +Observatory, one of the most important in France. + +Marseilles: Hôtel de Ville. La Consigne. + +The port of Marseilles has in all an area of 422 acres, and is +protected on the E. by Cape Croisette, and on the W. by Cape Couronne. +Its approaches are lighted by 6 lighthouses, of which the most distant +is on the Planier rock, 130 ft. above the sea, and 8 m. S.W. from +Marseilles. The large steam vessels lie in the dock La Joliette, +covering 55 acres, and finished in 1853; while the old-fashioned +trading-vessels, with their lateen sails, crowd together in the harbour +called emphatically the “Port,” containing 75½ acres. From the end of +the “Port” extends eastwards the handsome and greatly-frequented street +La Cannebière, so called from the rope-walks, whose site it now +occupies. At nearly the middle of the N. side of the “Port” is the +Hôtel +de Ville (1 in plan), built in the 17th cent., and adorned +with sculpture by Puget, born at Marseilles; while at the western +extremity of the same side, next Fort St. Jean, is a low building called +La Consigne, or Health Office. Over the chimney-piece in the +council-room of the Consigne is a beautiful relief in white marble +by Puget, representing the plague at Milan. To the right is a picture by +Gerard, representing Bishop Belsunce administering the sacrament to the +plague-stricken inhabitants of Marseilles in 1720. To the left, St. Roch +before the Virgin, by David. Fronting the windows, “The frigate Justice +returning from Constantinople with the plague on board,” “l’an 4 de la +République.” Opposite the fireplace, “The cholera on board the +Melpomene,” by Horace Vernet. Next it, by Guerin, “The Chevalier Rose +assisting to bury those who had died of the plague.” Between them is a +Crucifixion by Auber. Between the two windows is a portrait of Bishop +Belsunce. (Fee, ½ fr.) Near the Consigne is the pier of the ferry-boats. +Above the Hôtel de Ville is the town infirmary, and beyond it, on a +terrace 30 ft. above the quay of Joliette, +Marseilles: Cathedral. +Arc de Triomphe. +the Cathedral, a Byzantine basilica, 460 ft. from S. to N., +and 165 ft. from E. to W. at the transept; built of gray Florentine +stone alternating with a whitish sandstone from the neighbourhood of +Arles. The nave is 52 ft. wide, and the roof 82 ft. high. The great dome +is 196 ft. high. Behind the cathedral are the Episcopal palace +116 + +(5 in plan), the Seminary (4), and the Hospice de la Charité (7). +Eastwards, in the Place d’Aix, is the Arc de +Triomphe, an imitation of the arch of Titus at Rome, commenced +on the 4th November 1825, to commemorate the prowess of the Duc +d’Angoulême in the Spanish campaign of 1823. It is 58 ft. high and 58 +ft. wide, has on the south side statuary by Ramey emblematic of the +battles of Fleurus and Heliopolis, and on the north side similar +statuary by David, representing the battles of Marengo and Austerlitz. +Over the arch is the inscription— “_A la République_.” From +the arch a steep street, the R. d’Aix, descends to the Cours Belsunce, +with at the N. end a statue of Bishop Belsunce, “pour perpetuer le +souvenir de sa charité et de son dévouement durant la peste; qui desola +Marseille” in 1720. By the side of it are the terminus of the Bonneveine tram (p. 113) and the Alcazar +Lyrique, a kind of superior café chantant. + +Marseilles: Bourse. + +The continuation southwards of the Cours is the Rue de Rome, and +farther S. the spacious Promenade du Prado. At the S. end of the Cours +are, to the right the R. Cannebière, and to the left the +R. Noailles, the two best streets in Marseilles. At the W. or Port +end of the former is the Bourse (marked 10 in the plan), +a parallelogramic building, 154 feet broad by 223 long, erected +between 1858 and 1860. The principal hall, 60 feet by 94, is ornamented +with mural paintings. In the vestibule are allegorical statues of +Marseilles and France, and a bas-relief representing Marseilles +receiving productions from all parts of the world. On the opposite side +of the street, by the R. de Paradis, are the Opera-house, the Palais de +Justice, and the Préfecture (12 in plan). The Palais de Justice, built +in 1862 in the Greek style, has on the pediment and peristyle +bas-reliefs by Guillaume, representing Justice, Force, Prudence, etc. +The outer hall, the “Salle des Pas-Perdus,” is surrounded by 16 columns +of red marble. The Préfecture is a splendid edifice in the Renaissance +style, 300 ft. long by 260 ft. wide, adorned with statues and +bas-reliefs, and furnished with a grand staircase, escalier d’honneur, +communicating with handsome reception-room ornamented with mural +paintings. + +From the Bourse a pleasant road leads up to the church of Notre +Dame de la Garde, one of the principal sights, and the most +prominent object in Marseilles. From the Rue Paradis turn to the right +by the Cours Pierre-Puget, traverse the pretty promenade, the Jardin de +Colline, and then ascend the narrow road, the Montée des Oblats. On +descending be careful to take the path to the left of the stone altar +under a canopy on 4 columns. A small omnibus drives up the length +of the Plateau +117 + +de la Croix, whence a series of 178 steps has to be ascended to attain +to the terrace on which the church stands, 535 ft. above the sea. The +church is shut between 12 and 2, but the tower, ascended by 154 steps, +can always be visited. Fee, ½ fr. It is 148 ft. high, crowned with a +gilded image of Mary 30 ft. high, ascended by steps in the interior to +the head. The view, which is just as good from the terrace, commands the +whole of Marseilles. To the N.E. the culminating peak is Le Taoume, 2166 +ft.; to the S.E. is the Montagne de Carpiagne, 1873 ft.; and S. from it +Mont Puget, 1798 ft. In front of Marseilles are the islands Ratonneau +and Pomègue, connected by a breakwater. Between them and the mainland is +the little island of If (p. 118). Off +Cape Croisette are the islands of Maïre and Peirot. The road down the +little ravine (the Valon de l’Oriol) leads to the Corniche. + + +Marseilles: Notre Dame de la Garde. + +NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE. + +Notre Dame, an edifice in the Roman-Byzantine style, consists of an +upper and a lower church. The dome over the apse is 48 ft. high. The +interior of the church is lined with Carrara marble, but the pilasters +and columns are of marble from Africa and the Alps. Over the high altar +in the low church is the miracle-working image of Notre Dame. It is +about 6 ft. high, stands on a pedestal of olive wood, is hollow, and +made of a kind of stucco (carton-pierre) silvered over, excepting the +face and hands of both it and the child. It weighs 1 cwt. 1 qr. and 14 +lbs. On the high altar in the high church is a replica, nearly all of +silver. The walls are covered with expressions of gratitude to it, and +with pictures illustrating the manner in which its miraculous +interposition was displayed. + +Marseilles: Lycée. Saint Victor. + +From the streets Cannebière and Noailles other handsome streets +ramify, such as the Rue de Rome and the Cours Liautaud. Just where the +Cours Liautaud leaves the Rue Noailles is the Lycée or head +grammar-school, and in the neighbourhood (marked 11) La Bibliothèque et +l’École des Beaux Arts, forming together a palatial edifice off the +Boulevard du Musée, 177 ft. long by 164 ft. wide. On the ground-floor +are the class-rooms, and on the first story, the library, the collection +of medals, and the reading-room, 131 ft. long by 19½ wide. Among the +medals are 2600 belonging to Provence. The library contains 95,000 vols. +and 1300 manuscripts. + +At the mouth of the Port, on an eminence above Fort St. Nicolas and +the Bassin de Carenage (graving dock), is the oldest church in +Marseilles, Saint Victor, all that remains of one +of the most famous +118 + +monasteries in Christendom, founded in 420 by St. Cassien, ordained +deacon of the church in Constantinople by Chrysostom. The exterior of +St. Victor resembles a badly-built small fort surrounded by 7 unequal +and uncouth square towers, the two largest at the N. side having been +added by Pope Urban V., a former abbot of the monastery. Over +the entrance door under these towers is a rude representation of St. +George and the dragon. The upper church dates only from the beginning of +the 13th cent. Near the sacristy in the S. side a stair of 32 steps +leads down to the original church, a large and spacious crypt. Of +this crypt the most ancient part is the small chapel shut off from the +rest, with several tombs hewn in the rock. Among those buried here were +St. Victor, and, according to the tradition of the place, Lazarus also, +who is said to have died at Marseilles. The ancient appearance of this +chapel is marred by a modern altar with a stone reredos, sculptured, it +is said, by Puget. The shaft of one of the columns has a sculptured rope +coiled round it. Pieces of ornamental sculpture are seen at different +parts of the crypt, and remnants of a fresco painting. This also is the +sanctuary of a miraculous wooden image of Mary and Child, said to have +been carved by Luke. It is of a dark colour, is 3½ ft. high, and is +called Notre Dame de Confession, whose intercession is sought by crowds +of votaries from the 2d till the 9th of February. The best of the +sarcophagi have been removed to the museum in the Château Borély (p. 113). At the foot of +the eminence on which the church stands are Fort St. Nicolas and the +Bassin de Carénage, whence a sou ferry steamboat crosses every four +minutes to the other side. Among the modern churches perhaps the best is +Saint Vincent de Paul, built in the style of the 13th cent. + +Island of If. + +_Excursions._—The principal excursion from Marseilles is +to the Island of If, +with its old château built by Francis I., long used as a state +prison. Boats for the excursion lie at the Cannebière end of the Port. +They charge from 5 to 9 frs.; but it is necessary to arrange the +price before starting. The landing-place is at some low shelving rocks, +whence a stair ascends to the terrace, on which are, to the right the +entrance to the Château, and a little to the left a restaurant. +A man conducts visitors over the castle, of which the most +interesting parts are the cell of Monte Christo, and the place where he +was thrown over into the sea. + +Marseilles to Martigues, 24 m. N.W. by +rail (see map on +p. 66). At Martigues station omnibus for Port Bouc, 3¾ m. +W.; fare, ½ fr. From Port Bouc rail to Miramas, or steamboat by the +canal to Arles +119 + +(see p. 76). After leaving Marseilles the first station of importance is +L’Estaque (see +p. 80), 7 m. W., with large brick and tile works, at the foot +of a wooded hill. 4¼ m. farther is Pas-des-Lanciers, with an inn +close to the station. Here the Martigues branch separates from the main +line, and the Martigues passengers change carriages. Here also an +omnibus awaits passengers for Marignane, 3¾ m. W. on Lake +Marignane, pop. 7000. Remains of castle which Mirabeau inhabited. Lake +Marignane is separated from Lake Berre by a narrow strip of land. The +train after passing Marignane station arrives at the station for +Châteauneuf, a village S. towards the hills. + +Martigues. + +Les Martigues, pop. +10,000. At station, omnibus for the inn, Hôtel du Cours, and omnibus for +Port Bouc. Martigues is situated on both sides of the outlet from Lake +Berre, and on the islets within this outlet, all connected by bridges. +The railway station, the hotel, and a large part of the town are on the +E. or Jonquière side. On the first or smallest of the 3 islets are the +Tribunal de la Pèche and the fish-market; on the middle one is the Hôtel +de Ville; and on the third and largest are the hospital and the parish +church with sculptured portals. On the N. side of the canal is the part +of the town called Ferrières, containing the harbour and the reservoirs +for the manufacture of salt. Fishing is the principal industry of the +inhabitants. + +There are in Marseilles numerous charitable institutions. The +infirmary (Hôtel Dieu), founded in 1188 and rebuilt in 1593, can +accommodate 750 patients. The workhouse (Hospice de la Charité) contains +generally from 600 to 680 orphan children and aged men and women. Near +the Prado is the Hôpital de la Concepcion, with 800 beds. + +Marseilles: Industries. +Commerce. + +The leading industry is soap-making, which occupies sixty factories, +with 1200 artisans, and produces annually 65,000 tons, valued at +£2,000,000 sterling. With this manufacture are connected oil and +chemical works; in the former, which employ 2000 to 2500 workmen, 55,000 +tons of different oils are produced yearly. The chemical works employ +2000 operatives in the manufacture of the salts of soda and concentrated +acids, the value of whose annual production may be estimated at +£320,000. Metallurgy is another great industry; a large quantity of +ore, imported from Elba, Spain, and Algeria, is smelted in the blast +furnaces of St. Louis in the suburbs. The Mediterranean ironworks and +yards, together with other private companies, have large workshops for +the construction or repair of marine steam-engines, and for every branch +of iron shipbuilding, employing several thousand workmen. Marseilles is +a great centre for the extraction of silver from +120 + +lead ore; 16,000 tons of lead and 25 tons of fine silver are separated +annually. + +_Commerce._—The chief imports in +point of bulk are cereals from the Black Sea, Turkey, and Algeria; but +the one of greatest value, raw silk, £4,000,000 yearly, comes from +Italy, Spain, the Levant, China, and Japan. Then follow metals, ores, +timber, sugar, wool, cotton, and rice. The principal exports in respect +of value are silk, woollen and cotton fabrics, refined sugars, wines and +spirits; those of greatest bulk are cereals in the form of flour, +building materials, oil-cakes, manufactures in metal, oils, glass and +crystal. + +Marseilles: History. + +_History._—The Greek colony of +Massalia (in Latin, _Massilia_) was founded by the enterprising +mariners of Phocæa in Asia Minor, about 600 b.c. After the ravages of successive streams of +invaders it was repeopled in the 10th century under the protection of +its viscounts. In 1112 the town bought up their rights, and was formed +into a republic, governed by a podestat, appointed for life. In the +remainder of the Middle Ages, however, this arrangement was modified, +the higher town was governed by the bishop, and had its harbour at the +creek of La Joliette. The southern suburb was governed by the abbot of +St. Victor, and owned the Port des Catalans. The republic or lower town, +situated between the two, retained the old harbour, and was the most +powerful of the three divisions. The period of the Crusades brought +great prosperity to Marseilles. King René made it his winter residence. +Louis XIV. came in person to Marseilles to quell the disturbances under +the Fronde. He took the town by storm, and had Fort St. Nicolas +constructed. Marseilles repeatedly suffered from the plague, and an +epidemic raged from May 1720 to May 1721 with a severity for which it is +almost impossible to find a parallel; Bishop Belsunce, Chevalier Rose, +and others immortalised themselves by their courage and devotion. + +During the Revolution of 1793 the people rose against the +aristocracy, who up to that time had governed the commune. In the Terror +they rebelled against the Convention, but were promptly subdued by +General Carteux. The wars of the empire, by dealing a severe blow to +their maritime commerce, excited the hatred of the inhabitants against +Napoleon. Since 1815 the prosperity of the city has received a +considerable impulse from the conquest of Algeria and the opening of the +Suez Canal. + +The Marseillaise. + +_The +Marseillaise._—The famous anthem called “The Marseillaise” +was composed by Joseph Rouget de l’Isle, born at Lons-le-Saulnier on +121 + +the 10th May 1760, and died (it is said in poverty) at Choisy-le-Roi, +6¼ m. S. from Paris by rail, on the 27th June 1836. On the 24th +April 1792, the day before the departure of a detachment of volunteers, +Dietrich, the Mayor of Strasburg, gave a banquet to their officers, and +during dinner requested Rouget, then an officer in the engineers, to +compose a war-song for them. Although it was late before Rouget retired +to his room, he had both the music and the words ready before going to +bed. In the morning he handed the paper to his host, saying: “_Tenez, +voilá ce que vous m’avez demandé, mais j’ai peur que cela ne soit pas +trop bon._” “_Que dites vous mon ami?_” said Dietrich, after +casting his eye over the MS.; “_vous avez fait un chef-d’œuvre._” +The mayor’s wife having tried it on the piano, the orchestra of the +theatre were engaged to perform it in the principal square of Strasburg, +when such was the enthusiasm it created that the detachment marched off +with nearly 1000 instead of 600 volunteers. For them Rouget called the +air “Le Chant de guerre de l’armée du Rhin.” In July of the same year a +detachment of volunteers was sent to Paris from Marseilles by order of +Barbaroux, and as they were in the habit of singing this song both on +their march and in the capital it received the name of the “Hymne des +Marseillais.” Charles Barbaroux, born at Marseilles in 1767, died on the +scaffold June 1794, was one of the deputies who contributed most to the +fall of the monarchy. He belonged to the party called the Girondins. + +122 + + +MARSEILLES TO MENTON. + +By Hyères, Cannes, Nice, and Monaco. 155 +Miles. + +See Maps, pages 113, 155, and 185. + + +MENTON +155 +MARSEILLES. See under “Marseilles, Toulon, Nice et Menton” in the +“Indicateur.” The train, after leaving Marseilles on its way to Toulon, +traverses beautiful fertile valleys opening to the sea, and bounded by +mountains mostly with whitish calcareous tops. Having crossed the stream +Huveaune and traversed several tunnels and the Durance and Marseilles +canal, the slow trains halt at the villages of St. Marcel, with the +chapel of N. D. de Nazareth, and St. Menet, and La Penne, all +situated at the foot of Mont Carpiagne. During the season, from May to +October, a coach at the St. Menet station awaits passengers for the +cold mineral baths of Camoins, 2 m. distant, or 5 m. by +omnibus from Marseilles. The bathing establishment is about ¼ m. +from the village, in an undulating hollow, among plane trees, olives, +and vines. The water is cold, and contains iron and iodine, with a great +deal of sulphur. It is very effective as a tonic, and in diseases of the +liver. The establishment is quiet but comfortable. Pension 8 to +9 frs. per day. + +10½ m. from Marseilles is Aubagne, pop. 8100. H. Notre Dame. Omnibus +daily to Marseilles, stopping at H. St. Louis. Every train halts at +Aubagne. Junction with loop-line to Valdonne, 10½ m. N., with +coal-mines and potteries. Coach from Valdonne to Aix by Fuveau, where +take rail. + +After Aubagne the train passes through the tunnel of Mussaguet, and, +if a slow train, halts at the next station, Cassis, a pleasant +fishing village in an oasis at the head of a small bay, between Mont +Gardiole (to the west), culminating point 1800 ft., and Mont de Canaille +(to the east), culminating point 1365 ft. _Inn:_ Hotel and Pension +Liautaud. An omnibus awaits passengers at the station, 30 cents. +A very pretty path, passing by the Grotte de Regagne and through a +forest of pines on the sides of Mont Canaille, leads to La Ciotat, +6½ m. east by this road, and 23 m. from Marseilles by rail. +The station for La Ciotat is 2½ m. from the town, but an omnibus +awaits passengers. _Inn:_ H. de l’Univers, at the head of a +well-protected harbour, nearly encircled by two strong stone jetties. At +the western side of the little bay is a curious promontory, the Bec de +l’Aigle (well seen from the station), composed of three lofty rocks in a +row, perpendicular on the W. side. Beyond the point is the +123 + +small island Ile Vert. A little quarrying and coral fishing is carried +on in La Ciotat; but +the main business of the place is derived from the great shipbuilding +yards of the Messageries Maritimes, which may be said to employ directly +and indirectly the whole town. + +4¼ m. beyond La Ciotat, or 27¼ from Marseilles, is the pretty village +of St. Cyr, close to the station. 4¼ m. farther is the station for +Bandol, a fishing village at the head of a shallow bay with small +islands. The industries are cooperage and the culture of immortelles in +fields on the plain and on terraces on the sides of the hills. + +36 m. E. from Marseilles is the station Ollioules-St.-Nazaire, where +omnibuses await passengers for St. Nazaire, pop. 2500, a port on +the Mediterranean, and for Ollioules, pop. 3900, _Inn:_ Trotobas; +situated a short way inland on the Reppe, in a deep hollow surrounded by +limestone cliffs, which, about 2 m. up the river, are so close to +each other as to form a gloomy ravine, at one time the haunt of the +brigand Gaspard de Besse. The great industry of Ollioules, Nazaire, and +Bandol is the culture of immortelles, which, when made up into wreaths, +are sent all over France. The largest and best cost 24 frs. the dozen. +Yellow is the natural colour of the flower, but they are variously dyed +or bleached. They are cultivated on terraces among olive trees. Oranges +and lemons grow freely here. The coach for Beausset halts in the Place +of Ollioules, and then runs up the right bank of the Reppe to Beausset, +pop. 3000. _Inn:_ France. + +La Seyne. Six Fours. + +38½ m. E. from Marseilles, and 6 m. W. from Toulon, is La Seyne station. An omnibus +awaits passengers for the town, pop. 11,000, H. de la Méditerranée, +situated on the roads opposite Toulon, between which two ports there is +constant communication by steamers. Near the hotel is the office of the +omnibus for Tamaris, a village 1¼ m. S.E., at the foot of Fort +Napoleon, and on the Rade (roads) du Lazaret. The omnibus returns by +Balaguier. The Toulon omnibus for Reynier passes through La Seyne, from +which Reynier is 3 m. W. On the hill above Reynier are the new fort +and what remains of the ancient village of Six Fours, once a town of importance. The greater +part of the crumbling walls has been cleared away, and in their stead a +strong fort has been built, which occupies the entire summit of the +hill. The old church still remains, of which the earliest part, 6th +cent., is at the entrance extending east and west, and was originally +the whole building. To the right hand are two stone altars (6th cent.), +with windows behind them to give light to the officiating priest, who at +that time said mass with his face to the audience. The nave, extending +124 + +N. and S., was added in the 15th cent. It contains a Madonna by Puget, +and some pictures on wood of the 15th cent. Under the church is a large +cistern, formerly, according to the “Annales de Six Fours,” the chapel +or house where Mary, sent by her brother Lazarus, told the inhabitants +about Jesus. She was buried in the crypt of St. +Maximin (p. 143). + + +MARSEILLES TO CANNES. + + +opp. 123 +[West End] _For continuation northwards see map, page 66._ +[East End] _For continuation northwards see map, +page 163._ +_For continuation westwards see map, page 66._ + +see caption +_For Esteral Mountains see map, page 146, +and for continuation eastwards see map, page +163._ +_See Environs of Toulon, page 129._ + + +Toulon. + +TOULON. + +42 m. E. from Marseilles, 13 m. W. from Hyères, 22 m. S. from +Carnoulles, 59 m. S.W. from St. Raphael, 79 m. S.W. from +Cannes, 98½ m. S.W. from Nice, and 113 m. S.W. from Menton, is +Toulon, pop. 71,000 (see maps, pp. 123 +and 129). _Hotels:_ near the station, the +Grand Hotel, a large first-class house; a little farther and +near the post, the theatre, and Temple Protestant, are the Victoria and +the Louvre; in the Place Puget is the Nord, and at No. 15 an +office where carriages can be hired for Mont Faron and other excursions. +From this “Place” start the omnibuses for Hyères, 11 m. E. by the +road; also omnibuses for Ollioules and Beausset. The porpoises and +scallop shells on the fountain in the centre of the “Place” are by +Puget. In the Place d’Armes is the H. Place d’Armes, fronting the +Arsenal and the Promenade, where the band plays on Sundays. + +The omnibuses for Cap Brun, Ste. Marguerite, Le Pradet, La Valette, +La Garde, and La Crau, and the diligences for Pierrefeu, Collobrières, +Cuers, Solliès-Pont, Belgentier, Meounes, Neroules, and Brignoles, start +from the Place d’Italie at the east end of Toulon. In +this “Place” are the inns H. Petit, St. Jean, and +H. Croix-Blanche. (For the above places see maps, pp. 123 and 129.) In the Place +Puget are several cheap restaurants. The best restaurants are on the +quay of the port. + +Toulon: The Quai du Port. + +The Quai du +Port.—The bronze statue on this quay, representing +Navigation, is by Daumas, by whom are also the colossal statues in front +of the theatre. Near it are the berths of the steamers for Saint +Mandrier, 3½ m. S., and for the Iles d’Hyères. More to the right is +the berth of the large steamers for La Seyne. At the west end is the +hulk of the famous _Belle Poule_, covered with a roof of sloping +planks. This was the vessel in which Napoleon’s body was brought from +St. Helena and deposited in the Hôtel des Invalides on the 15th December +1840. The Chamber of Deputies granted £40,000 to defray the expenses of +the expedition, and entrusted the command to the Prince de Joinville, +with whom were associated Bertrand, Gourgaud, the younger Las Casas, and +Marchand the Emperor’s valet, all the latest and most devoted of +Napoleon’s adherents. On the +125 + +16th October the coffin was opened, when the body was found in an +excellent state of preservation. On that same day the remains were +embarked on board the _Belle Poule_, and on the 18th the ship set +sail. On the 30th November it reached Cherbourg, where the body was +transferred to the steamboat _Normandie_, which conveyed it up the +Seine to Courbevoie, where it was placed on a most magnificent car. + +Toulon: Cab Fares. The Arsenals. + +_Cab +fares._—The course, 1¼ fr.; the hour, 2 frs. + +The strongly-fortified port of Toulon occupies a plain rising +gradually from the sea to the lofty ridge of Mont Faron, which runs east +and west, and sends out lower branches, enclosing the town and harbour +on either side. On the summit, immediately behind the town, are Fort +Croix and large barracks; to the east is La Platrière, 1000 ft., and +immediately behind it Mt. +Coudon, 2305 ft. To the west is the Cap Gros, 1735 ft, and behind it +Mt. Caoume, 3268 ft. On every commanding position is a fort; while from +the water’s edge at the west end of the port rises Fort Malbousquet. +Similarly situated on the eastern end is Fort Lamalgue, the last held by +the English in 1793. The Petit Rade offers a spacious and most secure +roadstead. From it are walled off, at the east end, the Port Marchand +and the Vieille Darse, or town-docks, whence the steamers sail. Then +follow the Government docks of Vauban, Castigneau, and Missiessy, all +communicating with each other by swing bridges, and surrounded by +well-built quays. The most conspicuous features of Toulon are the +arsenals and the +establishments connected with them, which are on a scale of almost +unrivalled magnificence, occupying 717 acres, and employing above 10,000 +men. Near the west end of the Port a large gateway with marble columns +forms the entrance into the “Arsenal Maritime,” covering 240 acres, and +containing a general storehouse, 100 forge fires, two covered +building-slips, a ropery 1050 feet long, and an armoury with at the +entrance two caryatides and a colossal eagle by Puget. Adjoining is the +Arsenal de Castigneau, constructed on piles along the bay towards La +Seyne, with the bakery, ironworks, and ship-equipment departments. + +Although Toulon, rather a dirty town, is crowded with marines and +sailors, it maintains by the constant influx of the peasantry all the +characteristics of a town of Provence. Theatres of every grade abound, +from the Grand Opera House down to the poor little café chantant, where +gaudily-dressed females electrify the audience with popular ballads. The +most pleasant lounge in winter is on the Quai du Port, as the wharf +fronting the town-dock is called. As long as +126 + +the sun is above the horizon it shines there, consequently during the +cold season it is crowded with all kinds of people, most of whom, +unfortunately, are poisoning the air with execrable tobacco. On it are +good cafés and restaurants, and booksellers’ shops where plans of the +town and neighbourhood are sold. This now gay sunny promenade was in +November 1793 the scene of one of the most horrid butcheries of human +life recorded in history, when the infuriated Republican soldiers, mad +with vengeance, slaughtered above 6000 of their countrymen, not sparing +even those of their own party, in their blind rage. Sir Sydney Smith, +amidst the flames of burning ships and dockyards, and the shrieks and +imploring cries of the terrified populace, succeeded in rescuing and +embarking some 1500. Napoleon, then a lad of 23, by whose military +genius the discomfiture of the English had been effected, exerted +himself to the utmost, but in vain, to stay the carnage. + +Toulon: Town Hall. + +Among the houses which border the Quai du Port is the Town Hall, adorned +with two admirable caryatides by Pierre Puget. In front is the statue +representing Navigation, and at No. 64 of the street behind is the +corner house Puget built for himself. It contains four stories of nearly +square windows, those in the lowest and highest rows being the smallest. +The small side has three windows in each row, and the large four, the +windows of the first three rows over the doorway being in couples. On +the angles are shallow grooved foliated pilasters, and under the eaves a +projecting dentil cornice. + +The most sheltered street in winter, and the coolest in summer, is +the Rue Lafayette, a broad avenue lined with shops and shaded with +immense lime trees. It commences at the east end of the Port and bends +round to the Place Puget. About half of the street is occupied by a +fruit, flower, and vegetable market. In the second story of the narrow +five-storied house, at No. 89 (the Port end), is one of the cannon-balls +fired by the English during the struggle of November 1793. (See above.) +At the Port end of the street is the “Place,” whence the omnibus starts +for Mourillon; also the church of St. François de Paule. The interior +contains pictures and statues of some merit. The reredos of the altar to +the left represents one of the interviews between J. C. and +Marguerite Alacoque, while that of the altar to the right represents +Mary announcing herself to the girl swineherd at Lourdes to be the +“conceived without sin.” + +Toulon: Sainte-Marie-Majeure. + +The street ramifying from the west side of the Rue Lafayette, between +houses Nos. 77 and 79, leads to the cathedral of Sainte-Marie-Majeure, commenced in the +11th cent., and finished in the 18th. +127 + +The exterior is unattractive. The interior is better. The organ-loft +over the entrance is of carved oak. The alabaster reredos of the altar +in the chapel to the right of the high altar is by the sculptor Veyrier. +The tabernacle and the two angels under it are by Puget, who is said to +have executed also the alto-relievo on the side wall of the chapel +representing the apostles looking into the empty tomb of Mary. Over the +arch of the chapel on the left of the high altar is a Madonna in wood by +Canova. Several very good pictures adorn the church. + +All the steamers sail from the Quai du Port. The best and largest are +those which cross to La Seyne (p. 123). +The steamers for the Iles d’Hyères and for St. Mandrier sail also from +this wharf. The St. Mandrier steamer makes the trip six times daily, +calling first at Balaguier, where the landing-place is between Fort +Aiguillette to the north and Fort Balaguier to the south, the latter +being easily recognised by its round tower. The restaurant and houses +are situated towards Fort Aiguillette. On the other side of the point of +Fort Balaguier is Le Tamarin, or Tamaris, consisting chiefly of pretty +villas in luxuriant gardens full of palms and orange trees. Behind +Tamaris rises Fort Napoleon, commanding a splendid view. An excellent +carriage-road leads up to the top. It commences near the neck of land of +the peninsula of Cepet. An omnibus runs between Le Tamaris, Balaguier, +and La Seyne. +St. Mandrier. +The steamer, after touching at Balaguier, crosses the roads or Rade du +Lazaret and enters the small bay of St. Mandrier. At the landing-place is a +comfortable inn, charging 8 to 10 frs. per day. Round the point, in a +warm nook among the hills, is the hospital of St. Mandrier, with 1200 +beds, one of the most important establishments of this kind in France. +It occupies three sides of a parallelogram, has a handsome chapel, and a +great cistern vaulted with concentric circles. Adjoining is a large and +well-sheltered garden with orange trees. Visitors are readily admitted. +In Toulon, near the Place d’Armes, is the Hôpital de la Marine, +exclusively for the navy. Although well ordered, it is hardly +sufficiently ventilated. + +Toulon: Mont Faron. + +One of the most interesting walks is to the top of Mont Faron, 1792 feet above +the sea. From the Porte Notre Dame, at the E. end of Toulon, take the +broad road or street leading northwards by the bridge across the +railway. Then passing one of the artillery establishments, leave the +town by the Port of Ste. Anne—the name is on the gateway. From +this the real road commences, excellent all the way, and in its gentle +ascent and continuous windings ever unfolding the most lovely views of +the town and the bay. When not far from +128 + +the summit three roads meet. The road to the left goes to the barracks +and to the top. The nearly level road to the right goes to Fort Faron, +and the steep road to the left to Fort de la Croix on a rock above Fort +Faron. Both are on the east or the La Valette side of the mountain. The +summit consists of a stony tableland, from which rise knolls of various +elevations. It can be done in a carriage. + +La Valette. Mont Coudon. Cap Brun. + +_Toulon +Omnibuses._—Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best +are to Hyères (p. 133) by La +Valette, and to the village of Dardenne, on a stream in the picturesque valley +between Mont Faron on the right or S. side and the steep Tourris +mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426 ft. high. As far as the +omnibus goes the road is good. The road eastwards through the valley +leads to La Valette, and the short road northward to the village of Le +Revest, on the top of an eminence commanding a good view of the ravine +of the Dardenne. The village of La Valette, pop. 1700, is 3¼ m. E. from +Toulon and 7¾ W. from Hyères by the omnibus. The carving on the church +door, representing John writing the book of Revelation in the island of +Patmos, is said to have been done by Puget. From this village the ascent +is made of Mt. +Coudon, 2305 ft., in about 2½ hours. “From Mt. Coudon there are +grand views in all directions. I have sought for them a great deal, +and seen a great many, but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the +graceful yet bold indentured coast of France as exhibited from Coudon.” +—_George Sand._ A carriage-road leads up to the very top, but +unfortunately, when only a few feet from the summit, farther progress is +stopped by a fort, and the best of the view lost. Commence the ascent +from the narrow lane opposite the Hôtel de Ville, and, once on the high +road, never leave it. On the way up many very beautiful land and sea +views disclose themselves. + +The next best omnibus-drives are to Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite, eastward on the +coast, and to Le +Pradet, a village N.E. from Ste. Marguerite, on the road to +Carqueyranne. Both omnibuses start from the Place d’Italie. Although +this road skirts the coast, very little of it is seen on account of +hills and garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite are both forts on +cliffs projecting into the sea. To the east of the Fort Ste. Marguerite +is the village, consisting of a few houses, with a small chapel among +villas and cottages scattered over the slope of an eminence rising from +a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerable village a little to the S. of +La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, +forms a marked feature in the landscape. At Cap Brun is the villa of Sir +Charles Dilke. + +129 + + +Mourillon. + +The omnibus to the sea-bathing suburb of Mourillon, 3½ m. E., behind Fort La Malgue +or Malague, starts from the Port end of the Rue or Cours Lafayette. + + +environs of +TOULON & HYÈRES + + +opp. 129 +see caption + + +_Diligence +Drives._—Toulon to Meounes, 19¼ m. N. by +diligence from the Place d’Italie. Time, 3 hrs.; fare, 2½ frs. (see +map, p. 129). + +Belgentier. Meounes. + +The diligence, after passing through La Valette, Farlède 4¾ m., and +Solliès-Ville, arrives at Solliès-Pont, 272 ft. above the sea and +10½ m. from Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The +diligence halts near the inn H. du Commerce, where passengers from +Hyères can await its arrival. The coach to Brignoles passes by the same +way, but at an earlier hour. From Solliès-Pont commences the beautiful +part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau between lofty and +precipitous calcareous mountains. The slopes are covered with large +olive trees, and the plain with fields and vineyards and numerous cherry +trees. Nearly 2 m. farther up the valley, but on the other side of +the Gapeau, is Solliès-Toucas (328 ft.), situated in a sheltered nook. +5 m. higher up, and 12½ m. from Toulon, is Belgentier (pronounced +Belgensier), on both sides of the Gapeau. The horses are changed here. +The inn (auberge), which is indifferent, is round the corner to the +right. From Belgentier the olives cease to be continuous. The diligence, +after passing the flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft., arrives at the best +headquarters in the valley, Meounes, 919 ft., on the stream Naille, an affluent +of the Gapeau, 3½ m. N. from Belgentier, 8¾ m. N. from +Solliès-Pont, 6 m. E. from Signes, 4¾ m. S. from +Roquebrussane, 12 m. S.E. from Le Camp, 5 m. S. from +Garéoules, and 7½ m. S. from Forcalqueiret railway station, which +is 7 m. E. by rail from Brignoles (see map, +p. 123). + +The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak overlooking the +village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are the +words “Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge of +sinners, pray for us.” On the fourth side “June 1870.” Eastward is a +great circular mass of mountains, which rises abruptly on the eastern +and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern. Going +round from south to east the culminating points reach the elevations of +1794 ft., 1860 ft., 2073 ft, 2248 ft., 1934 ft., 2326 ft., and 2060 ft. +Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of various elevations, +occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and most of the paths which +traverse this region are excessively stony. + +Montrieux. + +Scarcely 3 m. from Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian +Monastery of Montrieux +(pronounced Monrieux), on an eminence 945 ft. above the sea. To go to it +descend the high road for about 1½ m. to a bridge and first road +right, which take. A little way up, the road divides into two; take +the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The building, which is prettily +situated, is small, and contains only about from 30 to 35 inmates. It +was founded in 1117, and had very large possessions, which, with the +house, were taken from the monks at the fatal revolution of 1793. In +1845 the building was repurchased, +130 + +along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars +from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Grenoble. The +Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their +rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same +room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have +each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps +and feeds by himself. Both affirm: “Nous ne permettons jamais aux femmes +d’entrer dans notre enceinte; car nous savons que, ni le sage, ni le +prophète, ni le juge, ni l’hôte de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni même le +premier modèle sorti de ses mains, n’ont pu échapper aux caresses ou aux +tromperies des femmes.” A nearer but very stony path, commencing +opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the convent. + +Through Meounes pass the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by Roquebrussane, +the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Garéoules, and the Toulon coach to +Garéoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is monotonous, and +the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to Brignoles +3 frs., distance 15 miles. (For Brignoles, see p. 142.) + +La Crau. Cuers. Pierrefeu. Collobrières. + +Toulon to Collobrières.—From +the Place d’Italie a coach starts daily to Collobrières, 25 m. N.E. +by E., passing through La Valette 3¼ m., La Garde with its castle +5 m., and La Crau +7½ m. _Inn:_ H. de France. Beyond the inn are the post +and telegraph offices, and a few yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau, +the halting and meeting place of this diligence with the coach that runs +between Hyères and La Crau. + +From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18 m. from +Toulon, where the horses are changed near the first terrace, +a little higher than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds +to Collobrières, up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2½ +frs.; time, 4½ hrs. Excursionists from Hyères should await the diligence +at La Crau, where it arrives about 4 p.m.; or take the rail to Cuers station, and then the courrier, which leaves +Toulon every forenoon for Collobrières, passing through Pierrefeu (p. 142). + +From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or less +undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat fields. The +Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyères with water, is crossed a few +yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to Pierrefeu takes +a northerly direction up the valley of the Real-Martin, the principal +affluent of the Gapeau. Pierrefeu, pop. 4000, is a dirty village on a +hill, 482 ft. above the sea, with narrow, crooked, steep streets. From +the terrace there is a pleasing view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu +the coach ascends the valley of the Réal-Collobrier to Collobrières, pop. 3600, +on an eminence rising from the stream. _Inn:_ H. de Notre +Dame, near the diligence office, good and clean. The office of the +courrier is in the principal street, near the Post and the Hôtel de +Ville with the promenade. From the top of the hill, where stands the old +church, now abandoned, is an excellent view of the valley. The lower +part is covered with fields and vineyards interspersed with fruit trees. +On the side of the mountains facing the north are forests of +131 + +chestnut trees, some very old and of most fantastic forms, while on the +opposite side are forests of sombre cork oaks. Cork-cutting, +wine-making, and the exportation of chestnuts form the principal +industries. The wine, when four years old, makes an agreeable vin +ordinaire. In the tenth year it is at its best, when it becomes +straw-coloured. + +A winding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends northwards to +Gonfaron, a station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and +Pignans station is the culminating point of the Maures, on which is the +chapel of N. D. des Anges, 2556 ft. above the sea. + + +Isles d’Or. + +The Islands of Hyères, or the Iles d’Or. + +Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles; time 2 hrs., fare +2 frs.; thence to the Ile Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and +back to Porquerolles, 2 frs. Steamer also every other day from Les +Salins of Hyères to Porquerolles by the Iles du Levant and +Port-Cros. + +The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck of +the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the +massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to +the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La +Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and +southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital of +St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyères is afterwards seen +distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles the +steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of +Giens (see p. 140, and map, +p. 123). + +Porquerolles. + +Porquerolles, +pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of 2 miles. +The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern coast is +low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it terminates in +vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The vegetation is +nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the mountains, while +the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards and fields. The +climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained from wells. +Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants are found in +the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium minutulum, +Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea, Genista +linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus olbiensis. + +The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N. side +of the island, exactly opposite Hyères, and 9 m. from Les Salins. +The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor +alongside. In the “Place,” quite close to the pier, are the church, the +museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the two +inns, of which the H. du Progrès is the larger of the two. Above +the town, at an elevation of 215 ft., is the castle, with some small +buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison. + +There are three main roads in the island—the road by the N. coast +westward is called the Chemin du Langoustier, the road by the N. +coast eastward the Chemin des Mèdes, and the road up the centre +of the island, from N. to S., the Chemin au Phare. This last road +132 + +commences at the N.W. corner of the “Place” and terminates at the +lighthouse on Cap d’Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210 +ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70 steps, +is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light. + +The first road right from the N.W. corner of the “Place” is the Chemin +du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively +open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to the +left, 370 ft. high, is an old watch-tower, considered the most ancient +structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed soda +manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie, +a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the +sea. + +The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Mèdes, traverses the most +fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it passes +round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S., on whose summit, 479 +ft. above the sea, is a semaphore or signal-station, commanding a +perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the other islands, +of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyères, and of the coast to beyond Cannes, +is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road right at the +commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement looks as if it +led up the plain. The Chemin des Mèdes terminates at a farmhouse called +Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the continuation is by a path +leading to a fort on Cap des Mèdes, to the N. of a hill 449 ft. +high. + +Port-Cros. Port Man. Levant. + +Port-Cros.—11½ +m. E. from Porquerolles port is the island of Port-Cros, 12½ m. S. +from Les Salins, on the western side of the island, at the head of a +small landlocked bay. An inn is near the pier. The main road extends +from the landing-place up the valley by the church and the proprietor’s +house to Port Man at the +eastern end of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded +ridge, whose culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea; +it is 2½ m. from S.W. to N.E., and 1½ m. from N. to S., and +contains 1482 acres. The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are +similar—mica, schist, and quartz. Round the coast are numerous +little coves with tiny smooth beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had +at all times. + +About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more +sterile island of the Levant, 5 m. from E. to W., and 1½ from N. to +S. The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the +Pierres Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. above the +sea. Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline abound. + + +Toulon to Hyères. + +Toulon to Hyères.—Passengers at Toulon for Hyères, +11 m. E., can go either by the omnibus, which starts three times +daily from the Place Puget, fare 1 fr., time nearly 2 hours, or by +train. If by rail they should examine the Indicateur, and select a +direct train, otherwise they may have to wait some time at La Pauline, +where the branch line commences by La Crau to Hyères, 13 miles by rail +from Toulon. + +133 + + +Hyères. Hotels. + + +HYÈRES, + +pop. 13,000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, the +nearest to England, and only 18¼ hours from Paris. It is not so gay as +Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, nor perhaps even Menton; but +none of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a variety +of charming country walks and drives either by private or stage coaches. +The hotel omnibuses await passengers at the station. The station is +¾ m. S. from Hyères, and ¾ m. N. from the Hermitage. + +_Hotels._—At the west of the town are the +Hôtel des Palmiers, below the Place des Palmiers; the *Iles d’Or, with +garden off the main road; the H. Continental, on an eminence above +the Iles d’Or. These three are first-class houses, and charge per day +from 15 to 20 frs., including bedroom, service, wine, candles, and three +meals with coffee or tea in the morning. Next the Iles d’Or is the +Hesperides, 8 to 12 frs. Off the main street are the Ambassadeurs and +the Europe, both from 10 to 12 frs., frequented chiefly by those who +come only for a few days. At the east end of Boulevard des Palmiers the +H. du Parc, 12 to 15 frs. On opposite side, and well situated for +the sun, is the second-class house, the H. Iles d’Hyères, 7 to 10 +frs. Near it, but not well situated, is the Méditerranée, third-class. +The principal hotel on the east side of Hyères is the H. Orient, 10 +to 13 frs., a comfortable and old-established house, opposite the +public gardens. Farther east, and off the high road to St. Tropez, is +the Beau-Séjour, from 12 to 15 frs. Down by one of the roads to the sea +is the H. des Étrangers, 10 to 13 frs., in a sunny situation. About +1½ m. S. from Hyères, near the Hermitage chapel, but in a sheltered +nook overlooking one of the warmest and most favoured valleys of the +Montagnes des Oiseaux, is the *Hôtel and Pension de l’Hermitage, 9 to 12 +frs., retired and comfortable, and frequented chiefly by English. As it +is near the sea, in a forest of pines and cork oaks, it combines the +advantages of Arcachon with those of Hyères. All the above prices +include tea or coffee in the morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, +with wine to both. Abundance of furnished apartments and villas to let. +In the Place des Palmiers are a French and an English bank. Both +exchange money. In the same “Place” is the Temple Protestant, and a +little beyond the English Pharmacy. The Episcopal chapel is in the +Boulevard Victoria. The town hospital is at the west end of the +town. + +There are several clubs; the best are the Siècle and the Progrès, +which take in English newspapers. Here, as well as in the other stations +134 + +on the Riviera, all the first-class clubs or “cercles” have large +gambling-rooms, as productive of evil as Monte Carlo. + +_Cab +fares._—Per hour, 2 frs. A coach per month with driver and +2 horses, 500 frs. With 1 horse, 300 frs. + +Hyères: Drives. + +_Drives._—A 3 to 4 hours’ drive in a +coach with 1 horse costs 6 to 8 frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs., +but, as there is no recognised tariff, it is necessary in every case to +settle the price beforehand. The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and +back by the road between the Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1 +horse, 8 frs. The same price to La Crau, round by the west side of +Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley of the Gapeau. The great drive, +forming a good day’s excursion, is to the Chartreuse of Montrieux, +18 m. N., by La Crau, Solliès-Pont (a railway station), and +Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier). (For description, see p. 129.) Coach with 2 horses, 25 +frs. there and back. The other great drive (costing the same) is to the +Fort of Brégançon, 16 miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux +Salins, at the eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north +towards the St. Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7 m. from Hyères) +amidst large olive trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of +the plain called La Plage Largentière, in which is situated the Château +de Bormettes, built by Horace Vernet (7½ m. E. from Hyères). +A little farther east, on the Plage de Pellegrin, are the châteaux +of Léoubes (11 m.) and Brégançon; and, on the western point of Cap +Bénat, Fort Brégançon, about 4 miles west of Bormes. (For Bormes, see p. 142.) Another pleasant drive is to +Cuers, 14 m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that +ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the +Vallée de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road passes +by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive +trees, some 6 feet in diameter. There are also some large pines. +Besides these excursions there are a great many little drives which may +be taken in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges +of the Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected, +as some parts of the roads are not good. + +Hyères: Coaches. + +_Coaches._—From the Place de la Rade +start daily coaches for Carqueyranne 6¼ m. W., for Les Vieux Salins +4 m. E., for La Crau 4½ m. N. (see +p. 130), and for St. Tropez 32½ m. E., whence a steamer sails +to St. Raphael. Near the “Place,” opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du +Var, start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette +(see maps, pp. 123 and 129). + +135 + +Hyères proper is a little dirty town of narrow streets, +running up the south-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all +the other winter stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets +and villas, has far outgrown the original limits. A plain, +2 m. wide, is between the town and the sea. The beautifully-wooded +Maure mountains surround it on the land side, mitigating the keenness of +the north, north-east, and east winds, but affording indifferent +protection from the mistral or north-west wind. The Toulon road, +extending east and west, forms the principal thoroughfare. On it, and in +its proximity, are the best shops and the best hotels. From it rise the +steep streets of the old town, of which two of the gateways still exist. +At the east end, fronting the Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins, +and at the west end the Porte Fenouillet. Exactly half-way between these +two stood the principal gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the +street R. Portalet leads directly up to the *Place Massillon, +containing the fish-market, a bust of Massillon, and the Maison des +Templiers, 12th cent., now the Hôtel de Ville. +Massillon. +Standing with the face towards the Hôtel de Ville, we have to the left a +dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is the house, No. +7, where Massillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of France, was +born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared sedate, without +gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached to the Court at +Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on Louis XIV. +that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court— “Father, +I have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with +them, but whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself.” The +language of Massillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and +just, without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first +time in the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew +vii. 14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose +from their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopœia, which +still astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the +article “Eloquence” in the _Encyclopédie_ as an example presenting +“_la figure la plus hardie, et l’un des plus beaux traits d’éloquence +qu’on puisse lire chez les anciens et les modernes_.” His father, who +spelt his name Masseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from +father to son in the same house from 1647 to 1834. + +Hyères: St. Paul. St. Louis. + +Above the “Place” is the church of St. Paul, 12th cent., on a terrace +commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar +represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to +the church is an ancient baptismal font. + +136 + +At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la République, +is the church of St. Louis, built in the 12th cent. in the +Byzantine style and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the +entrance. The quadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned +arches. The pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls +display elegance and originality of design in the form and arrangement +of the canopies. The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are +set into the wall. Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and +remarkable picture representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen +and their 3 children on the beach of Hyères (the Plage du Ceinturon) on +the 12th of July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand +de Foz in the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St. +Louis about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain +in this square, the Place de la République, represents Charles of Anjou +and Provence, 9th son of Louis VIII. of France, and brother of Louis IX. +In 1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which +event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to +the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he +dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyères. At the +western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in +1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864, +and came from Spain. Napoleon I. lodged in the house No. 7 of the +Place des Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyères are numerous +nursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the +“Jardin d’Acclimatation,” where animals, birds, and plants are reared +for the Jardin d’Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These +gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered, +and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public. + +Hyères: Costebelle. + +From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the +Costebelle, about 2½ m. from N.E. to +S.W., on the wooded slopes of the Montagnes des Oiseaux. +The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in +little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern end +of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the chapel +of Notre Dame d’Hyères, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are lovely +views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western side are +old olive trees. + + +Hyères: Château. + +THE CHÂTEAU OF HYÈRES. + +On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the +Château of Hyères, which should be visited as early as possible, +for the sake +137 + +of acquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the +Hôtel de Ville and the steep narrow streets beyond, keeping to the +right, as the entrance into the castle-grounds is at the S.E. end of the +wall. The castle, 657 ft. above the sea, is believed to have been +founded in the 7th cent., although not mentioned till the 10th, when it +is called _Castrum aræarum_ or _aræis_, “air-castle.” +Considerable portions of the walls, and some of the towers and dungeons, +still remain, the most perfect part being on the western side, above the +Hôtel des Iles d’Or. The view from the ramparts is beautiful. +Immediately beneath are the town and its dependencies, like a map in +bold relief. Southwards, towards the sea, is the great plain, studded +with farmhouses, cypresses, olive plantations, and vegetable gardens. +Beyond is the roadstead, with generally one or more vessels of war +moored off the village of Les Vieux Salins. Out at sea, to the east, are +the islands of Levant, Port-Cros, and Bagaud, the smallest of the three. +Farther west, towards the peninsula of Giens, is Porquerolles (p. 131), the largest of the +islands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3 m. +long. On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by the +little hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N. D. d’Hyères, and the +Oiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North from +Oiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft., which looks as if the top had been +shaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the plain, +are Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. (see +p. 125), and the eastern extremity of Mt. Faron, behind Toulon. +Towards the east the view is bounded by the Maure mountains and the +Pointe de la Galère, with Fort Brégançon. From this fort, northwards by +the beach, are the châteaux of Brégançon and Léoubes. The highest peak +of the Maures is 2556 ft. above the sea, crowned by the chapel of Notre +Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, pp. 123 and +129.) + +Mont Fenouillet. + +Behind Hyères Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette +group, the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft., at the +western extremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge, +commences at the back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence, +633 ft., on which is a fragment of a tower. A gibbet for the +execution of malefactors stood there, hence the name. The small hill +above the east end of Hyères, and standing between the old and new +cemeteries, is a favourite walk, and commands a good view. Before +descending from the castle observe the road to Mt. Fenouillet. + +Excursion to Mont +Fenouillet.—Behind the castle ramify three paths. The path +to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of +138 + +the Maurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the +left, called the “Chemin St. Bernard,” leads down to the west end of +Hyères, near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads +to Mt. Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs, +and some fine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the +_Arbutus unedo_, or strawberry tree. When less than half-way a road +at Mt. Roustan, 608 ft., diverges N.E. by a ridge projecting into the +valley of the Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small +chapel visited by pilgrims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross +(3 Mai 1877), there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths +lead from it down to the road between Hyères and Toulon. + +Excursion to the +Montagnes des Oiseaux.—The best way is to take the path +commencing in the first valley N. of the Costebelle road, ascending by +the N. shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some places it +is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the _Quercus +coccifera_. The trees on the summit, 982 ft., obstruct the view, but +on the way up charming landscapes now and then unfold themselves of +Hyères on one side and of Carqueyranne on the other. + +The Trou des Fées. + +The Trou des +Fées.—On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E. +side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fées. The +entrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior, +covered with stalactites, is about 96 ft. long by 40 wide. To explore it +lights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a path +leads directly to it. It is situated under some fir trees. The road down +by the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelle +road passes near one of the principal springs which supply the town. The +other source is in the plain, on the road “du Père-Eternel,” nearly +2 m. S.E. from the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26 +horse-power. This water filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1 m. +E., through the gravelly soil of the plain. + +To mention all the drives and walks would be both difficult and +confusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramble +in whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up the +lonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only sound +heard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the “chasseurs” at +such game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In the +swamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Maure +mountains and their interminable valleys offer ample scope for the +walking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian. + +Cork-cutting. + +The principal agricultural products of Hyères, as indeed of all the +Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences +139 + +in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a +curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees +become covered with bark. If the sap be still in a semi-dormant state, +and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12° +Fahr., while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22°. The cold +of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyères, and nearly all the trunks +and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots; from each of which +sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now trees growing +round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime and umbrella +pines, the most numerous of the forest trees is the cork oak, or _Quercus suber_, generally +accompanied with the diminutive member of the oak tribe, the _Quercus +coccifera_. The bark forms an important article of commerce. When the +stem of the young cork oak has become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is +removed for the first time, but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen +years afterwards, when the bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is +stripped again, by making two circular incisions 3 to 4 feet apart, +and two vertical on opposite sides. This operation is repeated every +tenth year in the month of June, when the sap is in full vigour. +A cork tree does not produce fine-grained cork till it is fifty +years old. Cork-cutting, which formed an important industry in the +mountain villages, is gradually leaving them and settling in the towns +on the railways, on account of the greater facility of transport. +Processional Caterpillar. +Pipes. +The curious caterpillar of the Moth, _Bombyx processionaria_, feeds +on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine trees. Their nests, made +of a cobweb material, and shaped like a soda-water bottle, are firmly +attached to the branches. On cutting them open the caterpillars are +found coiled up in a ball, and do not endeavour to escape. They feed +during the night. When they leave the nest they go in procession, +following each other with great precision. On the summits of the Maures, +and on all the mountains bordering the Riviera, grows the heath _Erica +arborea_, from whose roots pipes are made. The digging up and the preparing of +these roots for the Paris manufacturers form now an important industry +in the mountain villages. In England they are called briar-root pipes, +briar being a corruption of the French word _bruyère_, signifying +heath. + +The “specialité” of Hyères is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits, +and flowers, for the northern markets, especially roses, strawberries, +peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain +between the town and the sea is admirably suited for this purpose. The +gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the +surface, there is always abundance of water. + +Butterflies. + +“About Hyères are many rare butterflies. Among the best is the +Nymphalis-Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus +Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the +beginning of September. It is found all over the Riviera, but most +abundantly at Hyères. The Vanessa Antiopa appears in July and September, +many of the latter generation living through the winter. Thais +Medesicaste, T. Hypsipyle, Anthocaris Eupheno (the Aurore de +Provence), Polyommatus +140 + +Ballus, and Rhodocera Cleopatra may be taken in April. A little +later there is an abundance of the Podalirius (scarce Swallow Tail), the +Machaon, the Thecla Betulæ, the Argynnis Pandora, the A. Niobe, the +A. Dia, the A. Aglaia, the A. Valenzina, the Arge Psyche, +the Satyrus Circe, the S. Briseis, the S. Hermione, the +S. Fidia, the S. Phædra, the S. Cordula, the +S. Actoæ, the S. Semele, and the S. Bathseba, all common +more or less throughout the summer.” —_W. A. Powell of the +English Pharmacy of Hyères._ + +Climate of Hyères. + +Climate.—Hyères is especially fitted +for old people and young children, and all those whose weakened +constitutions require to be strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all +of limited means coming to the Riviera should try this place first, as +it is the nearest, the cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require +gaiety, Hyères is not suited. “The chief attractions of Hyères are its +climate and the beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable +place, of winter abode, even for persons in health, who do not require +the animated movement and recreative resources presented by large towns, +and who are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on +the plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for +the most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the +more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed.” +—_Dr. Edwin Lee._ The mean winter temperature is 47°.4 F., +and the average annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in +England, every winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold; +and therefore the chances are that the traveller’s experience will not +agree with the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The +climate of Hyères is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and +Nice; and, “generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young +persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis, either +predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage of that +disease.” + +THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYÈRES AND LES SALINS. + + +The railway from La Pauline and Hyères to Les Salins extends 11 m. +south-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La +Pauline station is Mont Coudon (see +p. 128, and map p. 129). + +Giens. Saltworks. Le Château. + +8¾ m. S. from La Pauline, and 2½ m. S. from Hyères, is the station for +La Plage, consisting of some +pretty villas built between the beach and a wood of umbrella pines. From +the pier the _Zephyr_ sails every afternoon (excepting Sunday) to +Porquerolles (p. 131). The beach +adjoining the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254. +At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land which +connect the peninsula of Giens, 3¼ m. S., with the mainland. The +large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the Tour +Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite +(p. 131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot +and sandy, skirts large square basin-like marshes, where salt is +made by the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the +south +141 + +end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt is +heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles, and on +the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of houses. Very +fine views both of Giens and Hyères are obtained on the way to the +saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is by the +Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of Le Château, with a neat church +and the ruins of a castle. Many rare plants and immense quantities of +uni- and bivalve shells are found at Giens, especially on the smaller of +the two necks. + +From Le Château a road leads westward to the small fishing hamlet of La +Madrague, passing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of +mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a +house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to the +semaphore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus, 407 +ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys +covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles can +be had on the isthmus. + +After La Plage station the train, having passed the sea-bathing station +of Capé (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at + +Les Salins. Pomponiana. + +Les Salins, 18 m. +from Toulon and 5 from Hyères by rail. The omnibus from Hyères to +Salins stops at the small “Place” opposite the pier. Fare, ½ fr. It +traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between vineyards and olive +groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little harbour frequented by +feluccas and the boats of the training ships anchored in the bay. Behind +the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs for the evaporation of +sea-water principally in July and August. These reservoirs or Salins +occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually 20,000 tons of the value +of £10,000. It is very coarse grained, but is much esteemed by the +fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently, but during the hot or +busy season 300 (see map, p. 129). + +Coach to Carqueyranne, 6¼ m. W., by Costebelle and the coast. +After having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the +commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the +peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the almost +buried ruins of the Roman naval station of Pomponiana, some fine olive trees, and several +villas. A road from this leads to the Hermitage, passing an +olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high road is Carqueyranne, +a small straggling village, from which the little port is about +½ m. distant by nearly a straight road southwards. The Toulon +omnibus from the Place d’Italie halts at the port, but passes through +the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to the west of Carqueyranne +is Mt. Negre, 985 ft., and to the east are the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft., +and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be conveniently ascended from +Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley between the two chains. In +Carqueyranne are produced the earliest strawberries, peas, potatoes, and +artichokes for the Paris market. It is 3½° warmer than Hyères. + +142 + + +Bormes. + +Coach to Bormes, 14½ m. E. +from Hyères. The coach, after passing the ramification southwards to Les +Salins, halts a few minutes at La Londe, 7¾ m. E., a little +village with an inn, situated on both sides of the St. Tropez road. +Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou road separates from the St. +Tropez road, and extends S. through a wood of fir and cork trees. Bormes +is picturesquely situated among a group of hills to the east of that +long ridge which terminates with Cape Benat and the Fort Brégançon. In +the Place de la République or St. François is the inn, commanding a good +view from the back windows. At the east end of the inn is the old +churchyard, and a little beyond the new cemetery on the road to +Collobrières, 14 m. N. On the other side of the “Place” is the +parish church, from which a path leads up to the ruins of the castle, +12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes. Latterly it was occupied +by monks. From the castle a path, passing six small chapels, ascends to +the church of Notre Dame, commanding, especially from the portico, +a pretty view of the plains, sea, and mountains, as far as Toulon. +Bormes suffers from want of water. Less than an hour’s easy walking from +Bormes is Lavandou, a prosperous fishing village on the coast road +from Brégançon to St. Tropez. Savoury “langousts” or rock-lobsters are +caught in the bay (see map, p. 123). + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +49 +106 +LA PAULINE, a few +houses with a new church, near the foot of Mont Coudon. Junction with +line to Hyères, 6½ m. E. Passengers who have missed the train +for Hyères should await the omnibus at the little café below. From La +Pauline the train arrives at Solliès-Pont, pop. 3000; _Inns:_ +Victoria; Commerce; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, on a steep +hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Solliès-Ville, almost of +the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on the side of +the hill. _Inn:_ Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for +Collobrières (see p. 130). + +Carnoules. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +63½ +91½ +CARNOULES. _Inn:_ +H. de la Gare. Junction with line to Gardanne, 52 m. N.W., on +the line between Marseilles and Aix. + + +Gardanne. Barjols. + +Gardanne to Carnoules. + +Gardanne, pop. 3100. +H. Truc, with large coalfields, 11 m. N. from Marseilles and +7 m. S. from Aix (see p. 77). On this line, +16 m. N.W. from Carnoules and 36 m. E. from Gardanne, is +Brignoles, pop. 6000, on +the Carami. _Inns:_ Poste; Cloche d’Argent; Provence. This rather +dirty town, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry +trees, has long been famous for its dried plums. When ripe, they are +first carefully peeled and the stone taken out, then dried and gently +pressed. They are put up in small flat circular boxes. The church, +143 + +13th cent., is in the highest part of the town. St. Louis of Anjou, +Bishop of Toulouse, was born in the palace of the Counts of Provence, +now the Sous Préfecture, situated a little higher up the street than the +church. In the sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal +vestments. Diligence daily to Barjols, 16½ m. N., pop. 3000; H. Pont +d’Or; situated at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Crevisses (p. 167). Diligence also to Toulon by +Meounes (see p. 129). + +St. Maximin. + +On this branch line, 12 m. W. from Brignoles, is St. Maximin, 1043 ft. above +the sea, pop. 3400. _Inns:_ H. du Var; France. The church of +this ancient town was commenced by Charles II. of Sicily towards +the end of the 13th cent, over the underground chapel of St. Maximin, +1st cent. It has no transept. The nave is 239½ ft. long and 91½ ft. +high, and the aisles on each side 211 ft. long and 58 ft. high. The +width of the church is 127½ feet. The exterior is ugly and unfinished. +The interior of the roof rests on triple vaulting shafts rising from 10 +piers on each side of the nave. Above the western entrance is a large +and fine-toned organ, which was saved from destruction by the organist +Fourcade playing upon it the Marseillaise. The case, the pulpit, and the +lovely screen of the sanctuary are of walnut wood from the forest of +Ste. Baume. Few parts of any church present such an admirable +combination of beauty, elegance, and symmetry as this sanctuary, by a +Flemish monk, Frère Louis, in 1692. Round the screen are 20 sculptured +panels, each bearing within a wreath a representation in relief of one +of the incidents in the life of some celebrated member of the order of +St. Dominic. Under them are 92 stalls in 4 rows; at one end is the +rood-loft, and at the other the high altar against the apsidal wall. The +entrance is by one door on each side, adorned with chaste sculpture and +spiral colonnettes. To the left, or N. of the altar, is a relief by +Puget (?) in marble, representing the Ascension of Mary Magdalene, and +on the other side, in terra-cotta, Mary receiving the Communion from St. +Maximin down in the crypt where she died. The reredos of the altar at +the east end of the N. aisle consists of a painting on wood by an +Italian artist in 1520. In the centre is a large Crucifixion, and on +each side 8 paintings on panels representing the Passion. Below, on the +table of the altar, is an Entombment. In the second chapel from this is +another reredos in the same style, representing St. Laurent, St. +Anthony, St. Sebastian, and St. Aquinius. Here, in a small window-like +recess, is a very ancient iron Crucifixion. From the chapel behind the +pulpit is the entrance into the cloister and convent, 13th and 14th +144 + +cents. The sculpture above the sound-board of the pulpit is of one +piece, and represents the Ascension of Mary Magdalene. The undulating +fluting on the panels and the sculpture on the railing are very +graceful. Behind is the stair down to the crypt in which Mary Magdalene +died after having swallowed a consecrated wafer given her by St. +Maximin. Her body was afterwards put into the elaborately-carved +alabaster sarcophagus on the left side of the altar. The marble +sarcophagus next it contained some bones of the Innocents Mary is said +to have brought with her from Palestine. Opposite Mary’s is the marble +sarcophagus of St. Maximin, 1st cent., and then follow the sarcophagi, +also in sculptured marble, of St. Marcella (Mary’s maid) and St. +Sidonius, 2d cent. They are all empty, having been rifled at the +Revolution of 1793. In the shrine on the altar is the skull of Mary +Magdalene, and in a sort of bottle the greater part of one of her +armbones. (See also under Six Fours, +p. 123.) The cave of Ste. Baume, in which Mary Magdalene is said to +have lived 34 years, is situated among the picturesque mountains, partly +in the Var, and partly in the Bouches du Rhône, +Mont Bretagne. Trets. +of which the culminating point is Mont Bretagne, 3498 ft. To go to it, +coach to La Poussiere, 5½ m. S.W., then ascend to the cave by Nans, +5 hrs. distant. Frequented by pilgrims. From the chapel St. Pilon, 3285 +ft. above the cave, glorious view. (See map, +p. 123.) 12 m. W. from St. Maximin and 12 E. from Gardanne +is Trets, pop. 2200; +_Inn:_ France; a dirty town surrounded by its old walls +garnished with square towers. In the neighbourhood are coalpits, but +they are small and unimportant. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +75¼ +79¾ +LE LUC station, 1½ m. from +the town, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Poste; Rousse. Coach daily from the +station by a beautiful road across the Maure mountains to St. Tropez, +26 m. S.E., by La Garde Fraisenet and Cogolin. Fare, 5 frs. +Time, 4 to 5 hours. The coach, shortly after leaving the station, begins +the ascent of the Maures, amidst vines, olives, chestnuts, and firs. On +the top of the pass, 1495 ft. above the sea and 12 m. from Luc, is +the village of La Garde Fraisenet, pop. 750, where the horses are +changed. This was the site of the Grand-Fraxinet, one of the strongholds +of the Saracens. 17 m. from Luc and 5 from La Garde is, on an +eminence, Grimaud, pop. 1400, an interesting village with arcaded +streets. In the principal square is a deep well hewn in the rock. The +massive walls of the church are built of large blocks of granite. On the +top of the hill is the castle built by Jean Cosse in the 15th cent., and +occupied till the +145 + +middle of the 18th. 19 m. from Luc, 7 from St. Tropez, and 25½ E. from +Hyères, is Cogolin, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Piffard; situated on an +eminence. On the top of the hill the Saracens had a castle, from which +they were driven (p. 187), and all the +fortifications destroyed excepting one tower, now the town clock tower. +By the roadside, about half-way between Cogolin and St. Tropez, is a +very large fir tree. 32 m. N.E. from Hyères and 26 m. S.E. from Luc +station is + +St. Tropez, pop. +3300, _Inn:_ Grand Hotel, a house with large rooms, at the +head of the port on the quay, commanding an excellent view of the bay. +The town, as usual, consists of dirty narrow streets. The church is in +the style found in the valley of the Rhône and along the east coast of +the Mediterranean. Nave surrounded by arches on high piers or tall +slight columns, such as at Tournon and Hyères. Small chancel and no +apsidal chapels, but generally an altar on the right and left of the +high altar, one of the two usually being to “Maria sine labe concepta.” +Behind the church, on a hill, is the citadel; and at the foot of the +hill, close to the sea, the cemetery. At the head of the harbour, +opposite the Grand Hotel, is a statue of Pierre André de Suffren, one of +the greatest admirals France ever had. He was born at St. Cannat, in +Provence, 13th July 1726, and died at Paris 8th December 1788. The +promenade has seven rows of large Oriental plane trees. The sea-urchins +of St. Tropez are very good. The drive by diligence from Luc to St. +Tropez is more beautiful than from Hyères to St. Tropez. Coach daily to +Hyères, 32½ m. W. + +Draguignan. Lorgues. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +84½ +70½ +LES ARCS, pop. 1200, +H. de France. Branch line 8 m. N. to Draguignan on the Nartubie, pop. 10,000. +_Hotels:_ *Bertin; Poste; France; Var. From the side of the +H. Bertin diligences start for Salernes, pop. 2250, on the Bresque. +_Inn:_ H. Bernard; 13½ m N.W. from Draguignan (see map, p. 123). From Salernes the coach proceeds to +Aups, pop. 2350, on the Grave, 1657 ft. above the sea, and 7½ m. N. +from Salernes. _Inn:_ Gontard, with good beer. From Aups diligence +to Manosque by Riez (see p. 166). Also +diligence to Brignoles by Barjols (see +p. 143). From Draguignan diligence 3 times in the week to Fayence, +pop. 1000, situated half-way to Grasse. Diligence also to Lorgues, pop. 3000; _Inn:_ +Bonne Foy; 6 m. W. + +Draguignan is situated on the south side of the Malmont mountains, +which attain an elevation of 1995 ft. In the old town is the +clock-tower, 58 ft. high, commanding an extensive view of the plain and +of the surrounding mountains. In the new town the streets are broad and +intersected by avenues and a beautiful promenade containing +146 + +thirteen rows of lofty Oriental plane trees, about twenty in each row. +The Jardin des Plantes is small. In the Place aux Herbes is one of the +ancient gateways. Preserved fruits, oil, raw silk, and leather are the +principal products, ¾ m. from Draguignan, by the road to Comps, is +a large dolmen composed of one flat stone resting on four similar +stones. The top slab is 16 ft. long by 12½ wide and 1½ thick. The others +are each 7 ft. high, excepting one, which is broken. Indications of +markings may be traced. Growing around this interesting Celtic monument +are an oak, a splendid specimen of a “micocoulier” (_Celtis +australis_), and a juniper, 20 ft. high, of a very great age. The way +to it is from the H. Bertin, ascend the street, and take the first +road left. When within a few yards of the kilomètre stone, indicating 1 +kil. from Draguignan and 30 from Comps, take the private road to the +left, leading into an olive tree plantation (see map, p. 123). + +Frejus. Colosseum. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +98 +57 +FREJUS, pop. 3400, +H. Midi close to station. Situated on the Reyran at the S.W. +extremity of the Estérel mountains, a picturesque group 13 m. +from N. to S. and 10 from E. to W., traversed by the “Route de Paris en +Italie,” which, from Frejus to Cannes, 22½ m. E., passes by their +highest peak, Mont Vinaigre, 2020 ft. above the sea. The peculiar charm +of the Estérels is due to the warm reddish hue and fantastic forms of +the bare porphyry cliffs rising vertically from the midst of the sombre +green pines which clothe these mountains. + +To the west of the station are the remains of the city walls, the +Porte de Gaules, and the Colosseum, or Arènes, of which the +greatest diameter was 224 ft., with accommodation for upwards of 9000 +spectators. On the eastern side of the station are the Porte Dorée and +the terrace called the Butte St. Antoine. East of the Butte stood a +Roman lighthouse. At this part are remains of Roman towers and walls. +The masonry throughout is admirable, composed of stones of the size of +large bricks. The Porte Dorée has alternate layers of stone and brick. +Having visited the ruins by the side of the railway, pass up by the +church, and leave the town by a road having on the left hand a large +building—the seminary. Having walked a few paces, there will be +seen to the left rather an ugly square tower, which marks the site of +the theatre. The lofty ruins of arches in this neighbourhood are the +remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought water to Frejus from the +Siagnole, near Mons, 24 m. N.E., and contained 87 arches. To the +right of the road is a terrace supported by (once) powerful masonry. +Below is the old Chapelle St. Roch. In the higher part of the town is +the parish church, which, with the adjoining +147 + +“éveché,” belongs to the 12th cent. To the left on entering is the +baptistery. In the Rue Éveché is a house with a sculptured doorway and +well-executed caryatides. From Frejus commence the pleasant views and +glimpses of the Mediterranean, which continue all the way to Genoa. The +Phœnician merchants of Massilia (Marseilles) founded the cities of Forum +Julii or Frejus, Antipolis or Antibes, Nicæa or Nice, and Agatha or +Agde. Agricola, the father-in-law of Tacitus, was born at Frejus. + + +opp. 146 +the ESTÉREL MOUNTAINS +with FREJUS and St. RAPHAËL +to CANNES + +see caption + + +Saint Raphael. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +100½ +54½ +SAINT RAPHAEL, a +rapidly-increasing place of 3000 inhabitants. In winter its guests come +from the colder regions in quest of warmth, and in summer from the hot +interior in quest of the cooling breezes and the still more refreshing +sea-bathing. _Hotels:_ close to the station, the France, 8 to +9 frs. More expensive houses: G. H. de St. Raphael, on an +eminence, with garden; near the beach, the *G. H. des Bains, 9 to +13 frs.; and Beau Rivage. Among the numerous handsome villas is the +cottage built by Alphonse Karr. Temple Protestant, Anglican Chapel. +Little steamer daily to St. Tropez; whence diligence to Hyères (p. 134). Omnibus runs between St. Raphael and +Valescure, 2 m. inland, with G. H. de Valescure. St. Raphael, +only 43 minutes from Cannes, makes a salubrious and agreeable residence, +with pleasant walks, either by the beach or up the valley of the Garonne +into the Estérel mountains, where the rambles are endless. At the E. end +of St. Raphael is a very pleasant park, rising from the rocks on the +coast. A little farther towards Cannes is the Boulerie, with a +large hotel. + +Napoleon landed at St. Raphael on his return from Egypt in 1799, and +here he embarked when he sailed for Elba. Along this part of the coast +are fine specimens of the _Pinus pinea_. + +Agay. Sainte Baume. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +105 +50 +AGAY, a small custom-house +station, with a few houses at the head of a small but deep bay, into +which flows the stream Grenouiller. On the top of the conical hill, on +the S.W. side of the station, is the Tour de Darmont, +a signal-tower. The great excursion from Agay is to La Sainte +Baume, 4½ m. distant, and a little to the N. of the peak of Cape +Roux, 1444 ft. above the sea. From the station take the path eastward to +the old château, which leave on the right hand, and pass under the +railway to an abandoned farmhouse. There a good path begins and winds +upwards to the summit of a small hill. From there descend boldly into +the valley in an eastwardly direction towards the rugged red summit of +Cape Roux till a stream is reached. Leaving the stream, a pathway +will be seen going upwards to Cape Roux. Follow that till a high ridge +is reached, close to the summit, +148 + +where is a splendid view to the east and west and north-west; then take +to the left, and in a few hundred yards a platform, with a spout of +running water and a couple of abandoned buildings, is reached. Distance +about 3½ miles. About 260 ft. above this, in the face of the rock, is +La Sainte Baume, the holy +cave of St. Honorat, in which this saint is said to have lived a +hermit’s life for some years. The best way back to Agay is by the wide +path seen from the hermitage leading westward to the river in the +valley. On the way remark, on the left hand, a truncated stone +pillar, a Roman milestone, with an inscription. Some archæologists +base upon the existence of this stone their assertion that the Via +Aurelia passed this way. At the bottom of the valley cross the +Grenouiller, and join the road to Agay. + +Le Trayas. + +After Agay the railway sweeps round by the base of Cape Roux, where a +magnificent panoramic view displays itself, just before arriving at +Le Trayas, the next and +last station before reaching Cannes, 11 m. E. from St. Raphael, +6¼ m. E. from Agay, and 8¾ m. W. from Cannes. From Trayas also +a road leads to the chapel of Ste. Baume, which is considered nearer +though not so good as the road from Agay. At Trayas the train passes +from the department of Le Var to the department of the Alpes Maritimes, +then traverses the Saoumes tunnel, 886 yards, and having passed the +pretty villages of Theoule and La Napoule, enters the +beautifully-situated town of Cannes. + + +Cannes. + + +opp. 149 +plan of Cannes +[East Edge: Northward Arrow] _To Villa Nevada_ +[East Edge: Southward Arrow] _To Hotel California_ + +149 + + +CANNES, + +on the Gulf of Napoule, 120½ m. E. from Marseilles, 79 m. N.E. +from Toulon, 78¼ m. N.E. from Hyères, and 19¼ m. S.W. from +Nice. Fixed population, 19,400. Hotels and Pensions.—Although there are +already very many hotels, their number continues to increase. Of villas +there are about 450, which, with the exception of some 110 belonging to +resident French and English proprietors, are let by the season, from the +1st of October to the last of May, at rents varying from £80 to £1200, +including plate and linen. Many have coachhouse, stables, and gardens +attached. For information regarding them apply to Taylor and Riddett, +agents, bankers, and moneychangers, 43 Rue de Frejus. They have also a +well-supplied readingroom, which they place at the disposal of the +public without any charge. The first-class hotels charge from 10 to 25 +frs. per day; the second from 8 to 12, including everything. A fair +gratuity for service during a prolonged stay is from 50 c. to 75 c. per +day. + +Cannes: Hotels and Pensions. + +Those requiring to study economy will find the most reasonable hotels +and pensions at the east end of the town. The Pension Mon Plaisir, +8 frs., in garden, Boulevard d’Alsace, near railway station. In the +Boulevard Cannet, Pension d’Angleterre, 9 to 10 frs., in garden. Farther +up the same Boulevard the Pension St. Nicolas, 8 frs. Near Trinity +Church, the *Pension Victoria, 8 to 11 frs., with very large garden +fronting the promenade. + +Cab, with one horse and seated for two, from the station to the +hotels, 1½ fr.; each portmanteau, ½ fr. + +The atmosphere on the hills, and at some little distance from the +sea, is supposed to be in a less electrical condition, and not so liable +to produce wakefulness, as in those places near the beach, and therefore +many prefer the hotels and pensions situated inland. _Hotels:_ +fronting station, the Négociants; the 1 *Univers, 7½ to 9 frs. In the +Allées, on the beach, the Hôtel Splendide, 12 to 20 frs. At E. end of R. +d’Antibes, the Pensions Luxembourg; Wagram, 8 to 11 frs.; and the +H. Russie, 9 to 12 frs. + +1 +The asterisk, here as elsewhere, prefixed to the name of hotel indicates +that it is one of the best of its class. + +_Hotels to the east of the Allées_, fronting the beach, taking +them in the order from west to east:—The National, 9 to 15 frs.; +Midi, 8 to 12 frs.; *Beau-Rivage; *Gray and Albion; *Grand Hotel; Plage; +the last four are first-class houses, charging from 10 to 20 frs. The +150 + +H. Suisse; Augusta; Anne Therese; *Victoria, in large garden, 8 to +12 frs. Behind the Grand Hotel is the Theatre. Behind the H. Midi, +in the R. Bossu, No. 8, the Post and Telegraph Offices. + +On the north side of the railway, but a little higher, are the +Louvre; H. Central; Alsace-Lorraine, all 10 to 20 frs. St. Victor; +La Paix. A little way hack are the Pension d’Angleterre; H. de +France; H. Méditerranée, 9 to 13 frs. + +Farther east, and approaching the region of Californie, are Hotels +Windsor; Mont-Fleuri; *Beau-Séjour; St. Charles; Des Anges; *Californie; +Des Pins, 10 to 25 frs. On the hill overlooking the H. de +Californie is the Villa Nevada, where the Duke of Albany died on Friday +morning, 28th March 1884. + +In the interior, on eminences on the west side of the Boulevard +Cannet, are the *Prince of Wales; *Provence; Des *Anglais; *Richemont; +all with gardens, and charging from 12 to 25 frs. per day. + +At the foot of this hill, on the Boulevard Cannet, is the Pension +Lerins, a plain but comfortable house, charging 7 to 8 frs. +A little higher up this Boulevard is the English church of St. +Paul; whence a road ascends to the Hôtel *Paradis, which, although a +first-class house, on an eminence in a garden, charges only from 10 to +15 frs. Next it is the Hôtel de Hollande, similarly situated. Also well +inland, on the Nouveau Chemin de Vallergues, is the H. *Beau-Lieu, 10 to +20 frs. + +On the west side of Cannes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, is +the *Hôtel des Princes, 10 to 20 frs. On the hill above this part is the +H. Continental, 10 to 20 frs. Between the Scotch church and the +beach, and fronting the public garden, is the H. *Square Brougham, 8 to +10 frs., well situated. Beyond, between the railway and the beach, is +the H. Pavilion, 12 to 25 frs. A little beyond is Christ +Church, and on an eminence opposite the H. *Terrasse, 12 to 16 frs., +a large house with garden. Farther west, and considerably inland, +upon separate eminences, are two handsome hotels, the *Belle-Vue, behind +the Rothschild villa; and the *Beau-Site, 12 to 25 frs., behind Lord +Brougham’s villa. Farther west, and on the same level, is the +H. Estérel, same price. On a hill, a little beyond the perfume +distillery of M. Lubin, is the Pension de la Tour, well situated, +and not expensive. The western suburb of Cannes is called La Bocca, and +sometimes La Verrerie, from the bottle-works there. From this a road +runs up the broad valley of the Siagne, where there are fields of the +fragrant red Turkey rose, gathered in May for the perfumeries (see page 161). + +Cannes: Churches. Cab Fares. Steamers. + +_Churches._—Christ Church, Rue de +Frejus; St. Paul’s, Boulevard +151 + +du Cannet; Trinity Church, a little to the east of the Cercle Nautique. +Scotch Church, Rue de Frejus. Near the Church of St. Paul is the Invalid +Ladies’ Home. French Churches, on the Route de Grasse, and in the Rue +Notre Dame. German Church, Boulevard Cannet. + +Bank and money-changer opposite post office. In the neighbourhood the +office of Cook & Son, where their railway and hotel tickets are +sold. + +_Cab +Fares._—One horse with 2 seats, the course 1½ fr.; the +hour, 2½ frs. Two horses with 4 seats, the course 2 frs.; the hour, +3½ frs. Portmanteaus, ½ fr. each. _Steamers_ from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre for +Marseilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite and +St. Honorat, 1 and 2 frs. there and back. On Thursdays and +Saturdays trips to Theoule, 2 frs. + + Lord Brougham. + +Cannes extends 4½ m. from east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan, +and partly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses and +gardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards it +extends nearly the same distance, where large hotels crown the hills, +and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The principal square, +called the Allés de la Liberté, is nearly in the centre of the town, at +the head of the Gulf of Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110 +wide. It contains the Hôtel de Ville and the H. Splendide. Between +them is a marble statue, life-size, “A Lord Brougham, né à +Edinburgh, le 19 Septembre 1778. Décédé à Cannes le 7 Mai 1868.” He is +in his official robes. In his left hand, resting on the top of a palm, +he holds a rose. The Hôtel de Ville contains the Public Library and +interesting collections illustrating the natural history of the +neighbourhood. The obliging director gives every assistance in naming +the plants, insects, and minerals. At the head of the Allées, and on the +adjoining eminence, is the old or original town. On this hill is the +Church of Notre-Dame-d’Espérance, 17th cent., with a reliquary of the +15th. In front is a rudely-constructed wall with embrasures. Above it +are St. Anne, 13th cent., the old chapel of the castle, and the square +tower commenced in 1080 by the Abbot Adalbert II., of the monastery +of St. Honorat. From the top is an extensive view. Near the foot of the +tower is a small observatory. On a much higher hill behind is the new +cemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. The +monument consists of a massive lofty cross on a double basement, bearing +the following inscription:— “HENRICVS BROVGHAM. Natus MDCCLXXVIII. +Decessit MDCCCLXVIII.” Near him lies James, fourth Duke of Montrose, +K.T., died December 1874. + +_The +climate_, though dry and sunny, is at times precarious. In +152 + +nooks sheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but +on leaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced. +The mean winter temperature is 47° Fahr. The average number of rainy +days in the year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as +at Nice. “The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as +its equable warmth and dryness, together with the stimulating properties +of the atmosphere, indicate its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatic +temperaments.” —Madden’s _Resorts_. “While Cannes, therefore, +possesses a winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and +many classes of invalids, especially those who require a stimulating +atmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of those +suffering from affections of the respiratory organs.” —_Dr. +Hassall._ + +Cannes: Drives. + +_Drives._—In Cannes there are great +facilities for driving in carriages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The +omnibuses start for their destinations either from the east corner of +the Cours (Allées de la Liberté), or from the Rue d’Antibes, near the +Cours. The largest livery stables are in the Rue d’Antibes. They charge +for a carriage, with coachman and two horses, per month £30. The cabmen +carry their tariffs with them, and are bound to show them when required. +Copies of the “Tarif des Voitures” are kept for distribution in the +Kiosque on the Cours. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at +the rate of 3 frs. for a 25 frs. fare. + + +Road to Vallauris. + +THE CORNICHE OF CANNES. + +The best of the drives is to Vallauris by the low road to the Golfe de +Jouan, 4 m. N.E., then up the valley to Vallauris, 2 m. N., +and 250 ft. above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5½ m. +S.W. by the Corniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs. +Cab with one horse, 14 frs.; with two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris, +1 fr. By taking the omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a +delightful and easy walk along the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris +bridge a little below Massier’s pottery, and ascend the broad road. +About ½ m. from the bridge is the “Observatoire de la Corniche,” +where tea and coffee can be had, and whence there is a charming view +east from Cannes to Bordighera. About half-way between this and the +observatory at the Cannes or S.W. end of the road is the large hotel +Cannes-Eden. + +The Belvédère, at the Cannes end of the road, in La Californie, is 545 ft. above +the sea, and can be approached by omnibus from the Cours, 1 fr. +each. Behind it is the terminus of the branch of the canal which +supplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the +153 + +other branch, by which the west of Cannes is supplied, is just above the +Belle-Vue hotel on the road up to the Croix des Gardes. The canal +commences near the source of the Siagne, a few miles from St. +Cesaire. + +From the Belvédère an excellent carriage-road ascends to a still +higher summit, 795 ft. above the sea, or 250 ft. above the Belvédère. +The view is similar, including more of the interior. A short +distance N.E. from this is another summit, 804 ft. above the sea, which +from the top looks as if it were nearly over Antibes. + +Many prefer to commence this drive by Californie, and to return from +Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe de +Jouan station is C. Massier’s pottery, and a few yards along the +road towards Antibes is Napoleon’s column (p. 169). + +Vallauris. Pottery. Mines. + +Vallauris, pop. +4000, is a poor village, with small cafés and restaurants. The omnibus +stops in the “Place” opposite the church and the Hôtel de Ville, +containing a large flat stone bearing an inscription, stating that “the +Emperor Tiberius remade the road it refers to in the 32d year of his +tribunician authority.” Also a column, 4 ft. high and 14 inches in +diameter, bearing an inscription to Constantine. +Vallauris has long been famous for the manufacture of kitchen pottery, +“Potteries Réfractaires,” earthenware utensils, principally of the +“marmite” or stewpan class, capable of bearing great heat without +cracking. A dozen marmites, in assorted sizes, are sold for +2 frs. To this the Massiers and others have added the manufacture +of artistic pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the +showrooms in the village and in those down at the Golfe de Jouan. +Several of the clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up +northwards from Vallauris; but the best and richest strata, all of the +Pleiocene period, are in that valley near the spot where this road meets +the road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up +road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the clay-mines. The entrances +into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into them. The +colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gray, all in various +shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common articles are +made of a mixture of all the clays. Red clay from Estaque, near +Marseilles, is also used in the making of artistic pottery. + + +Vallauris to Antibes. + +The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S.E. to Antibes +traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo pines. Having +passed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come to a firebrick +and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. above the sea. The road behind, +extending N.W., ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a bridge is passed, +and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans to convey water to +Antibes. (For Antibes, see pp. 154 and +169.) + +154 + + +Cannet. La Croisette. + +CANNET. + +Two miles N. from Cannes, by the beautiful Boulevard Foncière, is +Cannet, 265 ft., pop. 2600. At the head of the Boulevard is the +H. *Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. A little to the east of the church Ste. +Philomène is a smaller house, the H. and Pension Cannet, 8 to 10 +frs. Immediately opposite the church is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858 +the accomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none +of those broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the +church is the “Place,” commanding a very pretty view. Omnibus, 6 sous. +Cab to Cannet, and return by the Grasse road, 7 or 9 frs. + +Drive to La +Croisette, the first cape east from Cannes, by the beautiful +road 2 m. long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1½ fr., +or 2½ frs. the hour. 2 horses with 4 seats, 2 frs. Tram, 6 sous. +Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or drive +by the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Near to La Croisette is the +entrance to the orange orchard “Des Hesperides,” occupying 4 acres. The +trees stand in rows 12 ft. apart, and were planted in 1852, when they +were from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges cost +about a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best are +those the second year on the tree. Frosts retard the sweetening process, +and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette there +is a place for pigeon-shooting, and also the remains of fortifications +begun by Richelieu, but never completed. + +_Cannes to the Cap d’Antibes_, 7 m. E. Cab with 1 horse and 2 +seats, 18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30 +frs. Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it +starts from the Allées de la Liberté, and in Antibes from the “Place,” +fare 1 fr. Very near this “Place” are two comfortable inns, the +H. Escouffier and the H. des Aigles d’Or; pension 7 to +8 frs. Their omnibuses await passengers at the railway station. +Antibes has a little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by +Vauban, who also built the fortress Fort Carré, near the northern side +of the entrance. From the N. ramparts, but more especially from the high +walk above the pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen +distinctly Nice, the fishing village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland +from Cagne are St. Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and, farther +west, Le Bar. In the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped +with snow in winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers. +One of them stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry; +the other forms part of an adjoining building, the “Bureau du +Recrutement.” + + +opp. 155 +CANNES & ENVIRONS + +see caption + + +Cap d’Antibes. Lighthouse. + +The Cap d’Antibes +affords a delightful little walking excursion. To visit the “Cap” from +Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the +155 + +Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take the +first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph-posts. Ascend +the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a “Via Crucis,” +bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group representing some +part of the passion of our Lord. At the top is N. D. d’Antibes, +frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the oldest part of the +building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the lighthouse built in 1836, on a hill 187 ft. above the +sea. The building is 82 ft. higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the +top is a fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for +one person, ½ fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the +road to the Villa Thuret and to the Hôtel du Cap, a first-class +house, 10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret +are now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical +trees and shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into +France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For +Antibes, see also p. 169.) The great tower on +a rock to the W., overlooking the sea, is a powder-magazine. + +Croix des Gardes. Theoule. + +Drives to the west of the Hôtel de Ville.—_La Croix des +Gardes_, 2½ m. N.W., and 498 ft. above the sea. The nearest +way ramifies from the Frejus road by the E. side of the Belle-Vue hotel. +The cross rises from a column on a block of granite. The view is +extensive. By the side of the road will be observed considerable +plantations of the _Acacia farnesiana_, from whose flowers a +pleasant perfume is distilled. + +_Cannes to Napoule_, 6 m. W, +Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs.; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16 +frs. 1 hour’s rest allowed. By omnibus, 30 c., leaving Cannes at 1 for +the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds with the omnibus to Napoule, 50 +c.; which, as it does not return till 4.30, affords ample time to walk +on to Theoule and back, +2 m. W. The Napoule road commences from the western, or what +is also called the English, portion of Cannes. It passes the little +Scotch church, behind which are the Square Brougham and the public +gardens. Farther W. is Christ Church, one of the three Episcopal +Chapels. A short distance beyond, on the right side of the road, is +the villa Eléonore-Louise, where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden +among the trees, but the garden is easily recognised by 2 large cypress +trees growing by the side of the rail. Three m. from Cannes, on an +eminence covered with pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. side of the +road, is the poor little chapel of St. Cassien, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is +held on the 23d of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in +Brittany, called here Roumeiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the side +of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From it a +very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs, leads to +the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at the foot of +the Estérel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better than that at +Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the railway viaduct, +a narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the mountains. From +Theoule a road extends to Trayas. + +Estérel. Pégomas. + +_Cannes to the Inn of +Estérel_, 12 m. S.W. and 830 ft. above the sea. +156 + +Carriage there and back, 35 frs. Cab with one horse and two seats, 18 +frs.; with two horses and four seats, 22 frs. After passing the Bocca +and St. Cassien, the carriage crosses the Siagne, having on the right or +north Mandelieu nestling in the sun, at the foot Mt. le Duc, 1265 ft., +a little to the east of the flat peak La Gaëte, 1663 ft. Afterwards +the Riou is crossed at the village of Le Tremblant, 167 ft. above the +sea, whence the ascent is continued by an excellent road amidst +picturesque scenery to the Inn and Gendarmerie of Estérel. The inn is +situated to the N. of Mt. Vinaigre, having to the east the Plan Pinet, +876 ft. above the inn, and to the west Mt. Vinaigre, 1193 ft. above the +inn. The path to the summit of Mt. Vinaigre commences near the inn. The +culminating part, 1030 ft., of the carriage-road is about 1¼ m. +west from the inn at a place where four roads meet, almost immediately +below Mt. Vinaigre, which is ascended from this point also. + +7 m. N. from Cannes by the Plaine de Laval and the wide valley of the +Siagne, passing the Hôtel Garibondy, is the village of Pégomas, pop. 1350, on the +Mourachone, a slow-running stream, in some parts hidden among +bamboos. Beyond the mill of the village is a pretty but difficult walk +up the ravine of the stream. Omnibus, 75 c. Cab, 12 or 16 frs.; 1 hour’s +rest. + +About 3 m. N.W. is Auribeau, pop. 480, prettily situated on the +Siagne. Cab, 18 or 22 frs., with 2 hours’ rest. + +Mougins. Castelaras. + +4¾ m. N. from Cannes, on a hill 820 ft. above the sea, is Mougins, pop. 1680. The road ascends +all the way, passing by the cemetery and traversing vineyards and large +olive groves. The omnibus goes no farther than Les Baraques, about +¼ m. below the town. Fare, 75 c. Cab there and back, one horse, 12 +frs.; two horses, 16 frs.; 1 hour’s rest. Mougins still retains a few +low portions of its walls and one gate, just behind the church. In the +shop near the gate is the key of the church tower. The church dates from +the 12th cent. From the tower, ascended by 75 steps, is a beautiful +view. To the west is La Roquette, N.W. Mouans-Sartoux, and beyond +Grasse. To the S.W. near the sea, and on the border of the Estérels, is +the village of Mandelieu. + +4 m. N. from Mougins, by the stony old road, or a little farther by the +new road, is Castelaras, 1050 ft. above the sea. It is half a +villa and half a farmhouse, commanding from the tower a splendid view of +Grasse, Le Bar, the valley of the Loup, Tourettes, Vence, etc., to the +north; Biot, Antibes, Nice, etc., to the east; Mouans, Auribeau, and the +Estérel mountains to the west; and Cannes with its islands to the south. +The easiest way to approach Castelaras on foot is to take the train to +Mouans-Sartoux, pop. 1010, then ascend the hill by the steep road to the +east of the station. When on the top the farmhouse and tower are +distinctly seen. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. The column farther +north marks the tomb of a gentleman who died at Grasse in 1883. + +_Sail by steamboat_ to the Iles de Lerins. Time, 1 hr. The steamer +makes two trips, so that passengers may land by the first at Ste. +Marguerite, and by the second be carried on to St. Honorat, where the +steamer remains sufficient time to visit the castle. + +157 + + +ILES DE LERINS. + +The Island of Ste. Marguerite, 4½ m. in circumference and 1½ m. +from the mainland, is covered entirely with a pine forest, except at +Point Croisette, on which stands the fort founded by Richelieu, +containing the apartments in which Marshal Bazaine was confined and the +far more interesting vaulted cell in which the Man of the Iron Mask was +closely guarded. The present entrance did not exist at that time, the +only communication then being by the now walled-up door which led into +the house of the governor, M. de St. Mars. From behind the prison a +road, bordered by the _Eucalyptus globulus_, goes right through the +pine plantation to the other side of the island. + +The Man of the Iron Mask. + +The name of the Man of the Iron Mask was Hercules Anthony Matthioli, +a Bolognese of ancient family, born on the 1st December 1640. On +the 13th of January 1661 he married Camilla, daughter of Bernard +Paleotti, by whom he had two sons, one of whom only had posterity, which +has long since been extinct. Early in life Matthioli was public reader +in the University of Bologna, which he soon quitted to enter the service +of Charles III., Duke of Mantua, by whom he was finally made +Secretary of State. The successor of Charles III., Ferdinand +Charles IV., the last sovereign of Mantua, of the house of Gonzaga, +created Matthioli supernumerary senator of Mantua, and gave him the +title of Count. Towards the end of 1677 the Abbé d’Estrades, ambassador +from France to the Republic of Venice, conceived the idea, which he was +well aware would be highly acceptable to the insatiable ambition of his +master, Louis XIV., of inducing the weak and unfortunate Duke Ferdinand +Charles to allow of the introduction of a French garrison into Casale, +a strongly-fortified town, in a great measure the key of Italy. The +cession of the fortress of Pinerolo to the French by Victor Amadeus, +Duke of Savoy, in 1632, had opened to them the entrance into Piedmont, +while the possession of Casale would have opened to them the broad and +fertile plains of Milan. + +The great difficulty Estrades had to encounter at first in the +prosecution of this intrigue was to find a medium of communication +between himself and the Duke. This channel was at last found in the +person of Matthioli, who enjoyed the Duke’s confidence and favour, and +was besides a complete master of Italian politics. Through him the +schemes of Estrades progressed so well that he was invited to the French +court, where he was received and rewarded by Louis XIV., +158 + +who at the same time presented him with a valuable diamond ring. Shortly +after Matthioli’s return to Italy he allowed himself to be bought over +by the Austrian party, which frustrated the French negotiations and so +exasperated the vindictive Louis that he sent orders to the Abbé +Estrades to have him kidnapped at all hazards. +For this purpose Matthioli was induced to go to the frontier beyond +Turin, where he was arrested as a traitor to France by the Abbé, +accompanied by four soldiers, on 2d May 1679. Such a scandalous breach +of international law required the adoption of extraordinary +precautionary means of concealment. His name was changed to Lestang, he +was compelled to wear a black velvet mask, and when he travelled armed +attendants on horseback were ready to despatch him if he made any +attempt to escape, or even to reveal himself. + +By the direction of Estrades he was comfortably lodged and fed in +prison, till orders came from Paris, stating— “It is not the +intention of the king that the Sieur de Lestang should be well treated, +nor receive anything beyond the absolute necessaries of life, nor +anything to make his time pass agreeably.” He was handed over to the +charge of St. Mars, who took him to the castle of Pinerolo, whence in +1681 they removed to the castle of Exiles. From Exiles St. Mars removed +his unfortunate and now crazy prisoner to the Island of Ste. Marguerite, +where they arrived 30th April 1687, after a journey of twelve days. + +Among the erroneous anecdotes told of Matthioli during his ten years’ +sojourn on the island are:—On one occasion he is alleged to have +written his name and rank on a silver plate, which he threw out of the +window. A fisherman picked it up and brought it to St. Mars, who, +on finding the man could not read, let him go. On another occasion +Matthioli is said to have covered one of his shirts with writing, which +he likewise threw out of the window. It was found by a monk, who, when +he delivered it to St. Mars, assured him that he had not read it. Two +days afterwards the monk was found dead. The origin of these stories is +to be found in a letter from St. Mars to the Minister, dated 4th June +1692, in which he informs him that he has been obliged to inflict +corporeal punishment upon a Protestant clergyman named Salves, also in +his keeping, because he would write things on his pewter vessels and +linen, to make known that he was imprisoned unjustly on account of the +purity of his faith. + +In 1697 Matthioli with his keeper left for the Bastile, of which place +St. Mars had been appointed governor. They arrived on 18th September +1698. + +On the 19th November 1703, about 10 p.m., Matthioli died in the Bastile, after a few +hours’ illness, and was buried next day at 4 p.m. in the cemetery of St. Paul.—Extracted +from the _History of the Bastile_, by R. A. Davenport. + +The Island of St. Honorat. Abbey. Massacre. + +The Island of St. +Honorat contains 97 acres, or is ¼ the size of Ste. Marguerite, +from which it is 750 yards distant. A pleasant road of 2½ m., +shaded by umbrella pines, leads round the island. Straight +159 + +from the landing-place is a convent of Cistercian monks, settled here only since +1859. The original monastery was founded by St. Honorat in 410. In 730 +and 891 the Saracens invaded the island, pillaged the +establishment, and massacred the monks. In the 10th century the again +flourishing brotherhood received Cannes as a gift from Guillaume +Gruetta, son of Redouard, Count of Antibes. In 1073 they built the tower +on the island, and in 1080 the Abbé Adalbert II. commenced the +castle of Cannes. In 1148 the monks strengthened and enlarged the +fortifications of their tower. In 1788 the monastery was suppressed on +account of the irregularities of the inmates. In 1791 the island and +buildings were sold. In 1859 they were finally bought by the Bishop of +Frejus, who handed them over to the present occupiers, a colony of +Cistercian monks, 50 in number, of whom about two-thirds are lay +brethren. + +“What Iona was to the ecclesiastical history of northern England, what +Fulda and Monte Cassino were to the ecclesiastical history of Germany +and southern Italy, St. Honorat was to the church of southern +Gaul. For nearly two centuries the civilisation of the great district +between the Loire and the Mediterranean rested mainly on the Abbey of +Lerins. Sheltered by its insular position from the ravages of the +barbaric hordes who poured down the valleys of the Rhône and of the +Garonne, it exercised over Provence and Aquitaine a supremacy such as +Iona, till the Synod of Whitby, exercised over Northumbria. All the more +illustrious sees of southern Gaul were filled by prelates who had been +reared at Lerins. To Arles (p. 70) it gave in succession Hilary, +Cæsarius, and Virgilius. + +“The present cloister of the abbey is much later than the date of the +massacre of the monks, which took place, according to tradition, on the +little piece of green sward in the centre of the cloister. + +“With the exception of the masonry of the side walls, there is nothing +in the abbey church earlier than the close of the 11th cent.” +—J. R. Green’s _Stray Studies_. + +St. Honorat: Castle. + +The tower or rather castle, as it now stands, represents two tall +rectangular elevations of unequal magnitude, crowned by projecting +cornices. On the ground-floor, with entrance from the beach, is a large +hall with groined roof, said by some to have been a chapel, and by +others a bakery, but most likely a “parloir” or reception-room. In the +wall, a little to the left or west, and about 30 ft. from the +ground, is a cannon-ball fired by the English when they took possession +of the islands in 1746. The interior of the castle is shown by the +concierge of the convent. The first part entered is the oblong cloister, +in three stories, of which two remain entire. The corridor of the first +is supported on short columns standing round the edge of a cistern. From +this corridor open the doors into the bedrooms and refectory. From the +upper corridor is the entrance to the chapel, which opened into the +library. Above the library was the infirmary, of which not a vestige +remains. A good view is had from the top. Visitors are next taken +to the convent. The church and buildings are +160 + +modern, excepting one of the cloisters. It is therefore a pity to spend +much time there, especially for those who have arrived by the last +steamer, and have consequently little time to spare. + +Chapel of the Trinity. + +By the road round the island are the remains of chapels of the 7th +cent., or even earlier. Going from west to east there is, against the +wall of the convent, a little to the west of the castle, the Chapel +of St. Porcaire (restored), where, it is said, the saint was buried. At +the western extremity of the island, within an old fort, is the Chapel +of St. Sauveur. To the west of the landing-place, near the large +gateway, are little better than the foundations of the Chapel of St. +Pierre. Farther east, beside the Orphanage, is St. Justine, now a +stable. The Orphanage contains about 25 boys. They are taught different +trades. The franc charged for showing the castle goes to their support. +On the eastern point of the island, beside a fort, is the most +interesting chapel of all, the Chapel of the *Trinity, 35 ft. long by about 25 wide, +placed from east to west. The great corner-stones of this small temple, +by their size and solidity, are the main supports of the building, +illustrating thereby the reason why in Scripture so much importance and +honour are attached to them in edifices. The roof of the nave is +semicircular, strengthened by three arches, the centre one springing +from two round columns. The roofs of the three apsidal chapels are +semispherical. + +Cannes to Grasse, 12½ m. N. +by rail, pop. 12,100. _Hotels:_ the G. H. International, +9 to 12 frs., a first-class house on the road to Le Bar. In the +town, H. Muraour and the Poste, 8 to 10 frs. Their omnibuses await +passengers. Those who wish to walk commence by the stair to the right of +the station, and then the steep road on the other side of the highway. +Grasse, a town of charming views, delicious water, and the best of +air, makes an excellent and beneficial change from Cannes. The town, +with its terraces and labyrinth of narrow, crooked, steep streets, is +situated 1090 ft. above the sea, on the southern slope of Mt. +Rocavignon, which rises almost perpendicularly 695 ft. above the town. +To the N.E. of Rocavignon is the Marbrière, 2920 ft. above the sea. The +short but stony road to the top of Rocavignon commences opposite the +fountain used by the washerwomen. On the summit is a stony plateau, +commanding extensive and exquisite views. +Plain of Napoleon. +A little way inland is a grassy plot, called the Plain of Napoleon, +because here, on 2d March 1815, he breakfasted at the foot of the three +tall cypresses, and then went on to St. Vallier. In the face of the +large calcareous cliff a few yards beyond the trees is a cavern or +“foux,” whence, after heavy rains, a large body of water issues in +the form of a roaring cascade. The path which leads down into the +beautiful valley below commences about 500 yards farther inland. It +joins that very pretty road among olive trees, seen from the plateau, +which, after passing the large white house, a hospice for the aged, +enters Grasse by the powder-house, formerly the chapel of St. Sauveur, +a little circular building with flat shallow buttresses, built in +the early part of the 10th cent. On entering Grasse by this way, and +just at the commencement of the promenade called the Cours, is the +hospital. The large door gives access to the chapel, +161 + +in which are hung, at the west end, three pictures attributed to +Rubens—the Crown of Thorns, the Elevation of the Cross, and the +Crucifixion. The concierge uncovers them. Immediately below, and +opposite the entrance into the public gardens, is the house of +M. Malvillan, containing paintings by a native of Grasse, +Jean Fragonard. +Jean Horace Fragonard, who died at Paris in 1806. The best of them are +five pictures, which were painted for Madame Dubarry, representing +frolicsome scenes, young people playing games. At the foot of the Rue +des Dominicains, in a large house with bulging iron grating, are some +decorative paintings attributed to Flemish artists. These pictures are +shown by courtesy. In the centre of the old town is the parish church, +built in the 11th cent., but altered and repaired in the 17th. It +contains several pictures, but the only good one is an Ascension of +Mary, by Subleyras, behind the high altar. From the terrace at the east +end of the church is one of the many beautiful views. Adjoining is the +Hôtel de Ville, and attached to it is a great square tower of the 11th +cent. + +A stair at the head of the main street leads down to the principal +square and market-place, with a fountain at one end and one of the sides +arcaded. The best promenades are the Cours, the terrace of the Palais de +Justice above it, and the Jardin des Plantes below it. + + +Perfumery. + +PERFUMERY. + + +The standard industries of Grasse are the distilling of perfumes and the +preserving of fruits. The flowers are cultivated on terraces resembling +great nursery-beds. Of the perfumes, the most precious are the Otto of +Roses and the Néroly. It requires 45 lbs. avoirdupois of rose leaves +(petals) to make 1 gramme, or 15½ grains troy of the Otto of Roses, +which costs from 2½ to 3 frs. the gramme; and 2¾ lbs. troy of the +petals of orange flowers to make 1 gramme of Néroly, which costs 8 to 10 +sous the gramme. The best Néroly, the Néroly Bigarrade, is made from the +flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is used principally in the +manufacture of Eau de Cologne, of which it constitutes the base. In +colour it resembles sherry, and the odour is that of Eau de Cologne. The +water that comes off in distilling Néroly forms the orange-water of the +cafés. The Otto of Roses of Grasse is superior to that of Turkey. +Extracts for scenting pocket-handkerchiefs are made from +freshly-gathered flowers laid between two sheets of glass, held by their +frames 4 inches apart, and piled one above the other, without pressing +the flowers. On each side of the glass is a layer of lard ⅓ of an inch +thick, which, in 12 to 24 hours, absorbs completely the odoriferous oil. +When the flowers are abundant they are renewed every 12 hours, sometimes +even every 6. The operation is repeated several times on the same lard +with fresh flowers. Jonquilles are changed 30 times, the cassia and +violet 60, the tuberose (a kind of hyacinth) and the jasmine, both +80 times. The lard is then melted in a large iron vessel, and mixed with +spirits made from grain, which, combining with the volatile oil, rises +to the top. The fluid is then filtered. +162 + +This is called the cold method. Orange and rose petals require the hot +methods, either by the still or by the “bain-marie.” The distilling of +the fragrant oil from the petals requires the most vigilant attention, +and the maintenance of the same degree of heat. Rose and orange pomade +are made by the bain-marie method by submerging a large iron pot full of +lard in boiling water. When the lard is melted the petals are added, and +after having remained there for 12 or 24 hours the mass is filtered to +remove the now inodorous petals. The operation is repeated from 30 to 60 +times, according to the required strength of the perfume. The red Turkey +rose is the only rose used. + + +At the very foot of the Rue des Cordeliers is the confectionery of +*Negre. He has showrooms and priced catalogues of his preserved fruits, +which are made up in the candied (cristallisé) state, in the +glazed-sugar (glacé) state, whole and in syrup (compotes), or as jams +and jellies (confitures). At No. 22 Rue des Cordeliers is the perfumery +of Bruno-Court, where purchases of the best material may be made from a +franc upwards. Below the church is the perfumery of Warwick and Co., and +in the B. Fragonard that of Pilar Frères, both of whom supply +Atkinson of London with the raw material. + +St. Cesaire. Cannes Canal. Callian. + +_Grasse to St. +Cesaire._—9 m. W. by a beautiful road. Carriage there and +back, 20 frs. Diligence, 1½ fr. Time, 2 hours. This little village, pop. +350, is situated on an eminence above the Siagne, 1560 feet above the +sea, or 470 feet higher than Grasse. In front of a large elm in the +“Place” is a plain but clean inn, the Hôtel de la Siagne (pension from 6 +to 8 frs.), where those who desire to fish in the river or ramble +in the environs can live comfortably. From the end of the street, right +from the inn, is a terrace, left hand, whence there is a view of the +valley of the Siagne, with the Cannes canal on its eastern side. The path to the +cave “Grotto de la Foux” goes by the upper side of this canal, and +requires 1½ hour’s easy walking. The commencement of the Cannes Canal is +about a half-hour’s walk farther up. No guide is necessary, unless it be +desired to inspect the cave with lights. Guide, 5 frs. Like the +more famous caves of Cahors and of Vaucluse (p. 64), this cavern or “foux,” +at the base of a calcareous cliff, contains a great basin of limpid +water, but no stalactites. The Cannes Canal is a narrow uncovered +conduit 31 m. long, exposed to animal and vegetable impurities +throughout nearly its entire course. Of greater interest is the +commencement of the Roman aqueduct, which conveyed water from the +Siagnole to Frejus (p. 146, and map, p. 129) by a channel covered with bricks, and stones of +the size of bricks, through the Roquotaillado tunnel, 164 ft. long, 27 +wide, and 82 high, in all probability originally a cave, but adapted by +the Roman engineers to their requirements. It is most easily visited +from Montauroux, on the hill opposite, 3 m. distant by a +bridle-path, _Inn:_ Bourgarenne, where pass the night. From this +village the tunnel is about 9 m. distant by an excellent +carriage-road. 1½ m. from Montauroux is the village Callian, _Inn:_ Castel, 1200 +ft., supplied with water by the Roman aqueduct. + + +opp. 163 +THE DURANCE, THE VAR, +the col di tenda, san remo +_For continuation northwards see map, page 327._ +_For continuation eastwards see map, page +211._ + +see caption +_For continuation westwards see map, page 66._ +_For continuation southwards see map, page +123._ + + +Nearly 2 hours’ walk from the Cannes Canal up the Siagne, and +163 + +situated at a considerable elevation, is the stalactite cave of Mons. Those who have already seen such +caves will find in this one nothing new nor striking. To visit it not +only is a guide necessary, but the keeper of the cave at Mons must be +advised beforehand, that he may be at the mouth of the cave with the +key. It is much the better plan to return from the commencement of the +Cannes Canal to St. Cesaire, and drive back to Grasse. The olives of St. +Cesaire are considered among the best flavoured of the Riviera. + +Grasse by Coach to Cagnes Station. + +Grasse to the railway station of Cagnes by the Pont du +Loup and Vence, 21 m. By omnibus, 3 frs. By private +carriage, 30 frs. This drive is generally taken in two +parts—Grasse to the Pont du Loup; then from the Pont du Loup to +Vence or Cagnes. + +Pont du Loup. Tourette. + +_Grasse to the Pont du +Loup by Le Bar_, 7½ m. N.E. Carriage with two horses there +and back, 15 frs. Omnibus to Le Bar 3 times daily, 1 fr. Distance, +5½ m. N.E.; whence it is a pleasant walk of 2 m. up the valley +of the Loup to the inn and Pont du Loup, at the mouth of the Gorge du +Loup. From the Pont 2½ hours of fatiguing walking up the ravine of the +Loup brings the traveller to the falls of the Loup, which requires a +good deal of rain to make them imposing. The whole way from Grasse to +Vence is by a beautiful Corniche road, nearly on the same level (1090 +ft.) throughout its entire course, disclosing at every turn exquisite +views towards the sea. The Pont du Loup, with its little cluster of +houses and orange-gardens, is at the top of a long narrow valley, just +at the point where the Loup rushes forth from a rocky gorge. On the top +of a plateau, about 500 ft. over the Pont du Loup, is the village of +Gourdon. From the terrace adjoining the church of Le Bar there is an +excellent view of Gourdon, the valley of the Loup, and of the +carriage-road on both sides of it. Those who visit the Pont du Loup +generally content themselves with a ramble in the gorge, and then, after +having taken some refreshments, either return to Grasse or go on to the +railway station of Vence-Cagnes (see +p. 169), 13½ m. farther, or 21 m. from Grasse. The drive +from Grasse to Vence-Cagnes station in a private carriage costs 30 frs. +The very same road is traversed by the omnibus from Grasse to Vence, +15 m. eastward. Fare, 2 frs. Time, 4 hours. A seat should +be taken in the “Imperial.” Next day, at one, start from Vence to Cagnes +railway station by another omnibus. Fare, 1 fr. Time, 1 hour. +Distance, 6 m. The road from the Pont to Vence continues to follow +the course of the Loup till within a few miles of the village of Tourette, pop. 980, at the foot +of Le Puy de Tourette, 4158 ft. above the sea, where the omnibus +halts. + +Vence. + +Vence, 1100 ft. above the sea, +pop. 2800. _Inn:_ Lion d’Or, pension 9 frs. Picturesquely +situated on a hill in the midst of mountains clothed with olive trees +and studded with houses standing singly and in clusters. This, the +ancient Vintium, has still large portions of its +164 + +old walls and ramparts, with massive square towers (11th cent.) next the +gates. At the northern entrance is the ancient palace of the Lords of +Vence, with a beautiful tower, built in the 15th cent., in the style of +the palaces of Florence, only without a court, for which there was no +space. In front is a fine old ash tree, sadly mutilated. + +The bishopric of Vence, founded in 374, was afterwards united to that of +Frejus. In the centre of the town is the cathedral, 110 ft. long, 68 ft. +wide, and about 70 high, inside measure. Two aisles with massive piers +and semicircular arches (slightly stilted) are on each side of the nave. +Above is a triforium 15 ft. wide. Roof waggon-vaulted. The choir, +containing 50 stalls in dark carved oak, is in a gallery opposite the +altar, in the position usually occupied by the organ. At the N.E. corner +of the church is an ancient and beautiful baptismal font, of which, +unfortunately, a large piece of the pedestal is sunk into the +ground. The chancel was formerly a Roman temple. The column now in the +square behind the church, and the other over a well at the west end, +stood formerly at the entrance into the temple. On the table of the +second altar right is part of a sculptured stone which formerly adorned +this temple. In the next chapel is the tomb of St. Lambert, many years +Bishop of Vence, with Latin inscription on table of altar. Under the +chancel is the vault in which the bishops were buried, while the vault +of the Lords of Vence was under the nave. The present “Place” behind the +chancel was the public cemetery. Several stones with inscriptions are on +the walls. One slab bears an eagle in relief, and under it is a still +larger stone sculptured in a diaper pattern, with a stork and crowing +cocks worked into the design. The style resembles that of the old carved +door in the first chapel right of altar, all probably of the 14th or +15th cent. + +Roche-Blanche. Rocher-Noir. + +To the N. of Vence is a row of four calcareous mountain cliffs, +extending eastward to the Var, and each about 2000 ft. above the sea. +The most prominent is the mighty cliff above Vence called the Roche-Blanche, +commanding a superb view. On the summit are the remains of a walled +village and castle, and less than half-way up the ruins of a castle of +the Knight-Templars. The road up to the summit is by the first narrow +path beyond the castle, ascending through beds of wild thyme and bushes +of the prickly broom. The next hill is the Rocher-Noir, having on its eastern side, right +above the bed of the Cagnes, a “foux,” an immense cave called the +Riou, containing a large basin of water, whence flows a copious stream. +It is 3½ m. from Vence. The next cliff rises over St. Jeannet, and +bears its name. The most easterly is La Gaude, with vineyards producing +one of the better wines of Provence, drank as vin ordinaire during the +first year, when still sweet and unripe, but of good body and agreeable +in the fifth and sixth years, when it costs 1½ to 2 frs. the litre +bottle. Vence is famous for double violets. They are cultivated in +hollows between furrows, and are sold to the makers of perfumes at the +rate of 3s. 8d. the pound. A woman will gather 4 kilogrammes +(8 lbs. 13 oz.) in a day, for which she is paid at the rate of 2½d. +the kilo. + +165 + + +Cagnes. + +The road from Vence to the Cagnes railway station descends the whole +way, passing at some distance the village of St. Paul, pop. 700, with +part of its old walls, and below it the village of La Colle, pop. 1500. +The coach drives through the low or modern town of Cagnes. _Inn:_ Savournin, not comfortable +during the mosquito season. The real town occupies, as usual, +a hill, on the summit of which is a castle built by the Grimaldi, +a polygonal tower bought by the present owner at an auction; who +has restored the painting by Carloni on the ceiling of the Salle Dorée, +representing the Flight of Phaeton, and has also added a small picture +gallery. A little way down from the castle are the ruins of the +small abbey church of St. Veran, 6th cent. The chancel is still in good +preservation. From Cagnes the views are not equal to those from Vence. +(For the Vence-Cagnes station, see +p. 169.) + + +St. Vallier. + +ST. VALLIER. + + +Grasse to +Digne, 63 m. north.—By the courrier 16 frs., changing +coach at Castellane. Fare to St. Vallier, 2½ frs., Escragnolles +4 frs., Castellane 8½ frs., Barrème 11½ frs., and Digne 16 frs. By +private coach from Grasse, with two horses, 100 frs. Dining first day at +Escragnolles, and passing the night at Castellane. Next day breakfasting +at Barrème, and then driving down to Digne (see map, +p. 165). + +The road between Grasse and Digne is broad, well constructed, and rises +at an angle from 5 to 7 in the 100. From Grasse to St. Vallier (2350 ft. +above the sea, or 1260 ft. above Grasse, and 6½ m. distant, +population 536) the ascent is continuous, disclosing all the way grand +views of Cannes, the sea, and the Estérel and the Tanneron mountains. +The courrier and private carriages halt generally a few minutes in the +“Place,” near the column with a marble bust of Napoleon I., +indicating the spot where he reposed “2 Mars 1815.” The Hôtel du Nord is +about 100 yards from this. The house is pretty comfortable, and charges +per day from 8 to 9 frs. A carriage from this hotel, towards +the Ponte-à-Dieu, as far as it can go, 3½ m., costs 5 frs. The +remainder can be walked in about half an hour. A carriage from +Grasse to St. Vallier, and towards the Pont-à-Dieu and back, 20 frs. The +Pont-à-Dieu is a calcareous rock which spans the Siagne in the form of a +bridge, like the “Pont” across the Ardèche. + +From St. Vallier the road makes very circuitous windings on the steep +sides of the mountains, ascending nearly all the way to Escragnolles, +a hamlet, pop. 320, consisting of a few houses and a small roadside +inn, with clean but hard beds, and plain and scanty fare, situated 3282 +ft. above the sea, or 2192 ft. above and 18 m. north from Grasse. +A little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley, +one of the principal sources of the river Siagne. The views from +Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially-wooded +mountains, with fields of wheat on laboriously-terraced ground. + +Castellane. Taulanne. Barrème. + +19 m. N.W. from Escragnolles, or 37¼ from Grasse, is Castellane, 2370 ft. above the +sea. Pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Levant; Commerce. A village of crooked +streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one +166 + +arch. A narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliff on which is the +chapel of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most extensive +prospect. Napoleon I. descended into Italy by the road on the left +bank of the river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night +here. A small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which, +although not very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in bad +weather. 18 m. W. from Castellane by a mountain-road is Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p. 167). +From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches the top of the +Col St. Pierre, 3600 ft., and then descends to Taulanne, 7 m. N.W. from Castellane. From +Taulanne the road descends 5 m. S., chiefly through a picturesque +ravine, to Senez, pop. 620, +among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the river +Asse. The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during 1130 to +1242. + +44¼ m. N.W. from Grasse, and 18¾ m. S. from Digne, is Barrème, pop. 1100, on the +confluence of the Clumane with the Asse. Breakfast is taken here, and +the diligence changes horses. Cloth-mills and trade in dried fruits, +especially prunes. In the neighbourhood is a saline spring. The road +from Barrème to Digne descends by a ridge between the valleys of the +Asse and the Clumane. + +Digne. + +Digne, pop. 8000, 2000 ft. +above the sea, 14 m. E. by loop-line from the station St. Auban on +the main line. St. Auban is 80½ m. N. from Marseilles, 62¼ m. +N. from Aix, and 20½ m. N. from Manosque. It is 109½ m. S. +from Grenoble; 45½ m. S. from Aspres, the terminus of the road from +Die; 41 m. S. from Veynes, whence commences the loop-line to Gap; +and 31¾ m. S. from Serre, the terminus of the road from Nyons (see +map of Rhône and Savoy). _Hotels:_ Boyer; Remusat, both in the +Boulevard Gassendi, near the statue of Pierre Gassendi (1592-1655), one +of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient Dinia, the +capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly ground rising from +the Bléonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest part is the cathedral, +and on the plain up the river, near the seminary, the much more +interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent., numbered among the +historic monuments of France. 1¼ m. up the Eaux-Chaudes, at the +foot of Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs, temp. 115° Fahr., +efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism. Bath, 2 frs. From +Digne Napoleon issued his proclamation of March 1815. Digne makes a good +resting-place and good headquarters. Both of the hotels are comfortable +and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. per day, and both supply carriages at so much +per day (see map, p. 165). + +Riez. Barjols. + +Among the many diligences that start from Digne, the most important is +to Riez, 26 m. S.W., fare +4 frs., time 4½ hrs., a great diligence centre. Riez, pop. +3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St. Maxime. _Inn:_ +H. des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque, 22 m. +W., by Allemagne, 5 m.; St. Martin, 8 m.; and to Gréoulx (see p. 167), 12½ m. S.W. from Riez, +and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, fare 4 frs. For Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p. 167), +9 m. E., +167 + +by Roumoulles, fare 2 frs. For Montmelian, 18 m. S., by Quinson. +Travellers on their way to Draguignan spend the night at Montmelian, +H. Sicard, and proceed next morning to Aups, 9½ m. E., +_Inn:_ H. du Cours, and thence to Draguignan. From Montmelian +a coach runs to Barjols, _Inn:_ H. Pont d’Or, +9½ m. S., whence other coaches run to Brignoles (see p. 142). For Valensole, +7½ m. W., whence to Volx railway station, other 7 m. +W. From Volx coach to Digne, 25 m. N., by Puymoisson, +3¾ m. N.; Le Begude, 8 m.; Estoublon, 11¾ m.; Mezèl on +the Asse, _Inn:_ H. du Cours, 15¾ m.; and Châteauredon, +7½ m. S. from Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep +valleys and at other times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down +in the valleys are olive trees, in the higher regions quinces, plums, +walnuts, and cherries (see map, +p. 165). + +Riez, the Colonia Julia-Augusta of the Romans, is still partly +surrounded by its old fortifications, of which the highest of the towers +has been converted into a belfry. Up the main street, through either of +the gateways, are houses with sculptured doors and transomed windows +which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other side of +the river, is La Rotonde, a temple, square externally, enclosing a +peristyle of 8 monolith granite Corinthian columns, bearing an elongated +octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is about 23 ft. Near it are +the remains of a colonnade consisting of 4 composite monolith granite +columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is the chapel St. Maxime, 10th +cent., restored and altered in 1857. It is 17 yds. long and 10 wide, +outside measure. On each side of the chancel are three Corinthian +columns similar to those in the round chapel. At the S.W. corner is a +short square tower with a spire. From the brow of the eminence, where +there is a statue of Mary, there is an excellent view of the dingy town +and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre. + +Moustiers Ste. Marie. + +A very pleasant drive of 9½ m. E., fare 2 frs., is to the curious +village of Moustiers Ste. Marie by the courrier, +starting at 2 and returning at 4. _Inn:_ H. du Mouton +Couronné. The village consists of poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow +gully and partly on the slopes, at the base of vertical calcareous +sandstone cliffs, rising to the height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between +two opposite points of these precipices is a chain 745 ft. long, from +which was suspended a gilt iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliffs, +by the stair of the “Via Crucis,” is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost +immediately below the chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood. +Lower down is the parish church of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S. +side rises a square belfry in three diminishing stages. Between +Moustiers and Riez is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18 m. +E. from Moustiers is Castellane, but no public coach runs between +them. + +Gréoulx. Baths. + +12½ m. W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, is Gréoulx, pop. 1400, a dirty village on a +hill rising from the Verdon. On the top are the gaunt ruins of a castle +built by the Knight-Templars. Less than ½ m. from the village is +the hotel and the bathing establishment. The rooms cost from 2 to +5 frs. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents. +168 + +Breakfast and dinner, 7 frs. Service, ½ fr. Or the lowest price per day, +10 frs., which is dear considering the quality of the house and +furniture. Bath, 2 frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is +1150 ft. above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most +abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt +new milk. Temp. 95° to 100° Fahr. The principal ingredient is the +chloride of soda, and, in less quantities, the chloride of magnesia, the +carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is also +rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along with +other sulphurous compounds, which develop themselves rapidly when the +water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is used +in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths are +partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of water +into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Gréoulx to +Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez (map, +p. 165). + +Manosque. + +Manosque, pop. 6200, on +the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, 22 m. north from +Pertuis, 41½ m. from Aix, 48½ m. from Gardanne, and +59½ m. from Marseilles. 4½ m. south from Volx, 20½ m. from St. +Auban, 31 m. from Sisteron, 61½ m. from Veynes, 66 m. +from Aspres, and 130½ m. from Grenoble (see map of Rhône and +Savoy). + +_Hotels:_ Pascal; Eymon, commanding an extensive view of the +surrounding mountains; near it the G. H. de Versailles; and the +Poste. Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the +Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive +trees. Portions of the town walls and towers still remain, and the +eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering +the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and +badly-paved principal street to the church of St. Sauveur, easily +recognised by the square belfry attached to the S.E. end. Within the +main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the façade are +circular, the others small and round-headed with modern glass. On each +side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span; the chancel is +extremely shallow, the roof 4 partite, and the floor considerably lower +than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the façade leads +to the principal “Place,” where there is a fountain, and whence there is +a good view. Higher up the principal street is Notre Dame, in exactly +the same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in the chapel to the +left of the high altar is formed of a marble sarcophagus, 5th cent., +with figures, in bold relief, of the apostles, and in the centre a +crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and child, supposed to date +from the 6th cent. In the Hôtel de Ville is a silver bust by Puget of +Gérard Jung, the founder of the order of the Hospitallers, +a religious community whose office was to relieve the stranger, the +poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of gypsum and +lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 5 hrs., 22 m. E.; to the baths of +Gréoulx, in the same direction; to Apt (see index), 26 m. W., by +Reillane 15½ m., and Céreste 20½ m. W. Volx station is +the intended terminus of the rail from Apt. + +169 + + +Vallauris. Antibes. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +124 +31 +GOLF JOUAN or +VALLAURIS. A few +yards straight up from the station is a short column, which marks the +spot where Napoleon bivouacked after his arrival from Elba on March 1, +1815. A very pleasant road, lined with villas, connects this small +port with Cannes. Opposite station are pottery showrooms. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +127 +28 +ANTIBES, pop. 6000. +_Hotels:_ Escouffier, Aigles d’Or. A fortified port founded by +the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers, without any mark +of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerable houses. In the square +the inhabitants have erected a monument to their valour. Those wishing a +bird’s-eye view of the town should ascend the tower beside the church. +The bellman’s house is close by. The wine of Antibes is of superior +quality (see p. 154). From Antibes +station omnibus to Biot, pop. 1400. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +132 +23 +VENCE-CAGNES. At +this station coaches await passengers for Cagnes, pop. 3000, about +1 mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, and contains +the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northwards by the same road +is Vence, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and several +interesting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers for +perfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, with a splendid view from the +terrace, and most picturesque environs. Between Vence-Cagnes and Nice +runs a diligence (see p. 165). + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +136 +19 +VAR. This station is on the left +or Nice side of the river Var, at the eastern end of the viaduct over +the mouth of the river. ¾ m. N.W. from the station by the road to +St. Martin are the Nice nurseries or pépinières, extensive, but not well +kept. About 2 m. N.E. from the station, up on the hill, is the +Caucade cemetery, in three stages. The first is used by the French, the +next by the English, and the highest by the Russians. The last two +contain many beautiful marble monuments. + +At the mouth of the Var is the racecourse. The races take place in +January. + + +Nice. + + +opp. 171 +plan of Nice + + +NICE + +is 140 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 95½ m. N.E. from Toulon, 95¼ m. +N.E. from Hyères, 39 m. N.E. from St. Raphael, and 19¼ m. N.E. +from Cannes. It is 9½ m. W. from Monaco, 15 m. S.W. from +Menton, 23½ m. S.W. from Bordighera, and 30 m. S.W. from San Remo +(see railway map, fly-leaf). +Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon, +mostly covered over, pop. 66,300. + +170 + + +Nice: Hotels and Pensions. + +Hotels and Pensions on the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in the +order of east to west. The Hôtel des Anglais, with one side to the +“Jardin Public.” Next it is the Cercle (club) de la Méditerranée; and +opposite it, projecting into the sea, a casino. On the other side +of the cercle is the H. Luxembourg. Then follow the Pension Rivoir, +13 to 18 frs.; the H. Méditerranée, H. Westminster, and the +H. West End, all first-class houses charging from 15 to 25 frs. per +day. + +The following are at the western end of the Promenade, and, as they +have considerable gardens in front, the inmates do not hear the noise of +the sea so much. The H. de l’Elysée, No. 59; the Pension *Anglaise, +8 to 11 frs., No. 77; the H. Continental, 10 to 15 frs. On the +Boulevard du Midi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des +Anglais, are the Beau Rivage; the H. des Princes, 12 to 15 frs.; +and on the Quai des Pouchettes, the *H. et P. Suisse, 8½ to 12 +frs. + +Around the “Jardin Public” are the first-class houses, the Angleterre +and the Bretagne. On the Quai Massena the H. de France; while in +the Place Massena are the best cafés and restaurants, large cab-stands, +and the terminus of the trams. Over the river near the Place Massena is +the Casino Municipal, fronting the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, on which are +the hotels Cosmopolitain; the Paix; and the Grand Hotel, fronting the +garden in the Square Massena. These hotels are first-class, and charge +from 10 to 20 frs. Higher up is a second-class house, frequented chiefly +by French, the H. Ferrand, 8 to 10 frs. + +On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some excellent hotels and +pensions. Taking them in the order of the Place Massena towards the +railway station we have, under the arches, the hotels Meublés, Deux +Mondes, and opposite the Univers. Then follow the hotels Ambassadeurs +with garden, Iles Britanniques, Prince of Wales, all the three from 10 +to 20 frs. Opposite, at No. 42, is the H. and R. Duval, 9 to +12 frs. At the top of the R. de la Gare, the H. National, 9 to 12 +frs., and the Hotel des Alpes. + +In the streets at right angles to the R. de la Gare near the +H. Iles Britanniques are the Russian, German, English, and Scotch +churches, and some comfortable hotels and pensions, mostly with gardens. +The best of the hotels are the *Paradis and the *Louvre, in the Boul. +Longchamp, near the Scotch Church. At the western end of the Boul. +Longchamp, the H. et P. des Palmiers, and the H. Splendide, +all from 10 to 20 frs. Near the Splendide is the P. Java, 9 to 11 +frs. + +Behind the Scotch Church are the P. Internationale and the H. et +171 + +P. de Genève. Next the Russian Church is the P. Helvétique. Near it +the H. Royal; the H. et P. Mignon and the P. *Millet, +entered from R. St. Etienne, 8 to 12 frs. + +At W. end of the R. de la Paix the H. Raissan, 10 to 12 frs.; +near it the Russie and the Beau Site, both quiet houses with +gardens. + +Opposite the station the H. et P. du Midi, 9 to 11 frs. Farther +down the H. et P. Interlaken, 8 to 11 frs. with wine. + +From the E. side of the Avenue de la Gare parallel streets extend to +the Boulevard Carabacel. In the first of these, the Rue Carnieri, is the +Theatre Français. In the Rue Pastorelli the Pension St. Etienne and the +H. Négociants, 8 to 12 frs. In the broad B. Dubouchage are the +first-class houses—the H. Littoral; *Empereurs; *Albion. +Behind the Albion, in the Rue Alberti, the H. et P. d’Orient. The +large building in the B. Dubouchage is the Bourse. Near it is the +American Episcopal Church. In the Avenue Beaulieu are the +H. Central and the G. H. *Rubion. + +The hotels, pensions, and villas at the end of the +B. Dubouchage, and about the B. Carabacel, are frequented by +delicate people, who sun themselves in the gardens and boulevards of +this quarter. At the Carabacel end of the B. Dubouchage are the +first-class houses—the H. Hollande; H. *Windsor; and +opposite, the H. *Julien. On an eminence in a garden off the +B. Carabacel is the H. *Nice. Then follow, on the +B. Carabacel, the H. Bristol, P. Londres, H. de Paris, +and houses with furnished apartments. In this quarter is the Carabacel +Episcopal Church, and near it the Hôtel Carabacel. + +On the way up to Cimiès, the G. H. Windsor. On Cimiès Hill, near +the Convent of St. Barthélemy, is the H. et P. *Barthélemy, on the +road to the Val Obscur, and near many pleasant rambles. On the Cimiès +Hill, on opposite sides of the Amphitheatre, are the H. et +P. Cimiès, and the Pension Anglaise, in the three houses from 9 to +12 frs. They are about 2 m. from Nice, and 430 ft. above it. The +tram from the Place Massena has its terminus near the +P. Barthélemy. The H. Cimiès has its own omnibus. The town +omnibus runs within a short distance of the P. Anglaise. + +In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the R. de France, and +its continuation the R. Massena, are hotels and pensions, with +moderate prices. Commencing at west end and going eastward—at No. +100, in garden, the P. Torelli. On the hill behind the H. de +Rome, 12 frs. At No. 121 is the H. de l’Elysée, with front to the +Promenade des Anglais. At No. 46 the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs.; +172 + +and opposite, the H. du Pavillon, with front to the Promenade des +Anglais. At No. 34 the P. Lampiano, 9 to 11 frs. At No. 30 R. +Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs. In the Place Massena the +H. et R. Helder, 18 frs. For commercial gentlemen the best is +the H. des Étrangers, R. Pont Neuf, 9 to 10 frs. + +Those requiring to study economy will, by a little search through the +private pensions, find very comfortable and moderately-priced lodgings. +In the meantime they may alight at any of the following houses, where +they can arrange at the prices given:—H. du Midi, opp. +station, 8 to 11 frs., 3 meals, wine extra. At the head of the Avenue de +la Gare the H. des Alpes and the H. National, 9 to 12 frs. At +17 B. Carabacel H. et P. de Londres, 8 to 10 frs. with wine. In the +Rue de France the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. At the west end of the +Promenade des Anglais the Pension Anglaise, 8 to 10 frs. In the Rue +Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs., including everything. In the +R. Gioffredo the H. and R. Montesquieu, 8 to +9 frs. + +Nice: Cafés. Banks. + +_Cafés._—The +best in the Place Massena. _Restaurants._—The *London House, +Pl. du Jardin Public. Restaurant *Française, 3 Av. de la Gare, and at +No. 11 Rest. d’Europe. _Clubs or Cercles._—The Cercle de la +Méditerranée in the Prom. des Anglais. Cercle Massena, Quai St. +Jean. + +_Banks._—The +Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The best for all kinds of banking +business and money changing is the “Credit Lyonnais,” 15 Avenue de la +Gare. Other banks—the Banque de Nice, 6 P. Massena; Lacroix et +Roissard, 2 P. Massena; Viterbo, 13 Avenue de la Gare. + +_House Agents._—John Arthur and Co., 1 Place Jardin +Public; C. Jougla, 55 R. Gioffredo; Salvi and Co., 2 R. du +Temple. + +_Post Office_, 20 Rue St. François de Paul, behind the Quai du +Midi. Most of the clocks have two minute-hands, one for railway or Paris +time, the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the +Nice time. In the same street is the excellent public library, with +45,000 volumes. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 p.m. It contains a few antiquities, some Roman +milestones, a collection of medals, and a bust of Caterina +Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 Place Garibaldi. +Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. above the sea. + +_Booksellers._—Galignani, 15 Quai +Massena, with well-supplied reading-room; Barbery, Place du Jardin +Public; Visconti, 2 Rue du Cours. Cook’s office adjoins Galignani’s. +Gaze’s is at No. 13, and Caygill’s No. 15 Avenue de la Gare. + +_Druggists._—Of these there are excellent English +establishments in the principal streets. + +173 + +_Confectioneries and Perfumeries._—Of the confections the +_specialité_ of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round +boxes weighing 100 grammes, or 3½ oz., for 5 frs. the box. The most +expensive of the glazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. the kilogramme +(2 lbs. 3¼ oz.), strawberries, 10 frs., and apricots, without the +stones, 8 frs. All the others cost either 5 or 6 frs. the +kilo. The best shops are— *Caëtan Féa, 4 Avenue de la Gare; +Guitton and Rudel, 23 same street; and *Escoffier, in the Place Massena. +Rimmel’s garden and perfume distillery are near the slaughter-house, on +the left bank of the Paillon. + + +Nice: Churches. Conveyances. + +_Churches._—Temple Évangélique or Vaudois +in the Rue Gioffredo; Russian Memorial Chapel, N.W. from the station; +Russian Church, Rue Longchamp; German Church, Rue Adelaide; American +Church, Rue Carabacel. Trinity Church, Rue de France; St. Michael’s, Rue +St. Michel; Carabacel Episcopal Church, at the east end of the Rue Notre +Dame. Scotch Church, in the Rues St. Etienne and Adelaide. + +Steamers to Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly. + +_Coach hire._—A carriage with coachman and 2 horses, 750 +frs. per month. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery +stables, where carriages and riding horses can be had per day or per +month. + +_Cabs._—Drivers +have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse and seat for 2, the +course 75 c.; seats for 4, 1 fr. The hour, seat for 2, 2½ frs.; +seats for 4, 3 frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course 1½ fr.; the +hour, 3½ frs. + +To or from the station. Cab with seat for 2, 1 fr.; with seats +for 4, 1½ fr. Cab with 2 horses, 1 fr. 15 sous. Each article on top +of cab 25 c., and 25 c. for each stoppage. It is better, if not sure of +a hotel, to engage the cab by the hour. + +All the _tram cars_ start from the Place Massena. + +_Diligences._—From the office, No. 34 +Boulevard du Pont Neuf, start daily:—Coach to St. Martin Lantosque, 3117 ft. above the sea, +and 37 m. N. from Nice. Fare 6 frs., time 10 hrs. (see +p. 180). Coach to Puget-Théniers, +1476 ft. above the sea, and 42 m. N.W. from Nice. Fare 2½ frs., +time 9 hrs. (see p. 182). To St. +Sauveur, 40½ m. N. (p. 182). Omnibus twice daily during +the winter season to Monte Carlo, by the low Corniche road. From the +office, Place St. François, start:—Coach to Cuneo, 80 m. N., by Tenda and the Col +di Tenda tunnel. Fare 16 frs., time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680 +ft. above the sea, and 51 m. N. from Nice. Fare 9 frs., time +11 hrs. (see p. 182). From Hôtel Chapeau Rouge, Quai St. Jean +Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. above the sea, and 15 m. N. +from Nice. Fare 3 frs., time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d’Or, Rue de +l’Aqueduct, +174 + +coach to Contes, fare 1½ fr., time 2 hrs., 10½ m. N. up the valley +of the Paillon, passing the pretty village of Trinité—Victor, +5½ m. N., pop. 1300; Drap, on both sides of the Paillon; and then +on a hill to the left, 2½ hrs. distant by a path, the ruins of the +village Châteauneuf, abandoned on account of the want of water. +Contes. +Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orange trees, +and vineyards producing good wine. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to +Trinité-Victor and back, 5 frs.; ½ hour’s rest allowed. + +Nice: Climate. + +_Climate._—If I should be asked to draw a +comparison between Nice and Cannes with respect to climate, +I should be inclined to call Nice a trifle colder in winter, +especially if there be much snow on the mountains. M. Teysseire has +preserved and published records of twenty years’ meteorological +observations taken at Nice with instruments placed outside his window, +on a fourth floor facing the north-north-east. His mean results for the +twenty years are as follow; to which, for the sake of comparison, +I append the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes:— + +Mean Temperature. +Nice. Cannes. +November 53.8 52.6 +December 48.5 46.3 +January 47.1 48 +February 46.2 48.8 +March 51.8 51 +April 58.1 55.5 + +The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at +Cannes.—_Health Resorts_, by M. Marcet, M.D. + +Vallons. + +Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the +Maritime Alps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a +reddish conglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period. +Between these ridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with +precipitous sides, scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent +action of torrents, the breadth and depth of the valleys depending on +the volume of water in the stream and the degree of consistence of the +conglomerate. The great vallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant +Vallon de Magnan exemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near +which a tram stops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream, +opening from the right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls +nearly perpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. apart. Higher up +the Magnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is +the more beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine, +which high up becomes so narrow and so choked with troublesome brambles +as to be almost impassable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and +the more level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the +entrance are beds of clay of immense thickness, of which +175 + +fire-bricks are made. The Mantéga Vallon, entered from the Chemin de +Mantéga (see plan), has great walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer +conglomerate is quarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material, +which, mixed with lime, makes excellent mortar. + +The city of Nice consists of three distinct parts:—1st, the new +or fashionable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon, +containing avenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets +bordered with large and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion +are hotels and “pensions;” 2d, the Old Town, a perfect labyrinth of +narrow, dirty, steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of +centre, and running up the sides of the Château hill, which separates it +from, 3d, the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of +harbour. + +During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city, +with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. In +winter the population may be estimated at 90,000, whereas in summer it +is only about 54,000, a diminution in numbers apparent only in the +largest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluctuating +population inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddled +together between the Paillon and the Château hill. + +Nice: Promenade. Castle. +Cemetery. + +The glory of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, commenced by the +English in 1822 to employ the poor during a season of scarcity. This +beautiful terraced walk, 85 ft. broad, extends 2 m. along the beach +of the Baie des Anges, from the Quai Lunel of the Port to the mouth of +the Magnan, whence it will be continued other 3 m. west to the +mouth of the river Var, near the Racecourse. + +Over the Port rises the Castlehill, 315 ft., commanding from the +platform, in every direction, the most charming views. To the E. are the +peninsula of St. Jean and Cape Boron, and rising from it, Fort +Montalban, Mt. Vinaigrier, and the Observatory residence and buildings. +To the N. is Mt. Chauve; to the E. the roofs of Nice; and in the +distance the Roche-Blanche (p. 164), +the peninsula of Antibes, and the Estérels. This fortress, founded by +the early Phœnician colonists, and destroyed and rebuilt at various +periods afterwards, was finally razed to the ground in 1706, by order of +Louis XIV., by Maréchal Berwick. Now it has become the great park of +Nice. A round tower that still remains, over the Hôtel des Princes, +called the Tour Bellanda, was probably added to the Castle by Emmanuel +Philibert in 1560. On the W. side of the hill (see plan) is the cemetery in five stages. At +the entrance is the monument to the “Victimes de l’Incendie du Theatre, +23d March 1881.” Towards the E. end, at the wall, is the grave of +176 + +Rosa Garibaldi, d. 19th March 1852. The tombstone was placed by her +son, General Garibaldi. In the highest terrace is the grave containing +Gambetta and his mother. In a terrace by itself in the eastern end is +the Protestant cemetery. + +Caterina Segurana. + +Near the harbour, and above the Quai Lunel, is the statue of King +Charles Felix. In the Rue du Murier, leading down from the Rue Segurane +to the Port, is the mulberry tree where Caterina Segurana had her tent. +On the 15th of August 1543 she, at the head of a devoted band, attacked +the allied French and Turkish forces commanded by François de Bourbon +and the Turk Barbarossa, struck down with her own hand the +standard-bearer, and put the enemy to flight. Giuseppe Garibaldi was +born, 19th July 1807, in a house which stood at the head of the Port +before its enlargement. In a small street, ramifying from the Rue +Segurane, is the church of St. Augustin, in which Luther preached in +1510. At the east end of the R. de la Préfecture, last street left, No. +15 R. Droite, is the Palais des Lascaris, with ceilings painted in +fresco by Carlone. It is now the “École Professionnelle.” This is also +the street of the jewellers patronised by the peasantry. Paganini died +(1840) in the house No. 14 R. de la Préfecture. The jambs and lintels of +the doorway are slightly decorated. The Cathedral and the other churches +in the old town are in the Italian style, ornamented with gilding and +variously-coloured marbles. The new church, Notre Dame, in the Avenue de +la Gare, is Gothic in style. The first non-Romanist church erected in +Nice was the Episcopal chapel of the Trinity in 1822. As it became too +small, the present church was built on the same site in 1856 at a cost +of £6000. To the N.W. of the railway station, by the Chemin St. Etienne, +in an orange grove, is the +Nice: Memorial Chapel. +Russian Memorial Chapel, a series of ascending domes, built over +the spot on which stood the villa in which the Prince Imperial of Russia +died, April 24, 1865. The interior is covered with designs in gold leaf, +varied here and there by a light-blue ground. Round the base runs a +white marble panelling, enclosing frescoes of saints in niches. + +The principal thoroughfares in Nice are the Place Massena and the +handsome broad street the “Avenue de la Gare,” extending in a straight +line northward from the “Place” to the station. Next in importance are +the Quais Massena and St. Jean Baptiste. In the above are all the best +shops. The Rue Massena, and its continuation the Rue de France, behind +the Promenade des Anglais, contain shops principally of the provision +kind, British stores, grocers, wine merchants, confectioners, +177 + +and dressmakers. At the east end of the Rue de France is the Croix de Marbre, +a marble crucifix under a canopy on four marble columns, erected in +1568 to commemorate the visit of Charles V., Francis I., and +Paul III. in 1538, and the partial reconciliation of the two +potentates through the intervention of the Pope. The column opposite +commemorates the visits of Pio VII. in 1809 and in February 1814. Near +this is Trinity Church, and in the Rue Gioffredo the Temple Évangélique, +the second Protestant church built in Nice. + +André Massena. + +On the arched part of the Paillon, fronting the Quai St. Jean, is the +large and handsome Casino, and a little farther up the river the pretty +public garden called the Square Massena, with a statue in the centre, in +an animated posture, of André Massena, Prince of Essling and Marshal of +France, who was born on May 7, 1758, in a house now demolished, which +stood on the Quai St. Jean Baptiste. In 1810 he was chosen by Napoleon +to stop the advance of Wellington in Portugal, and was commissioned “to +drive the English and their Sepoy general into the sea.” But the wary +strategy and imperturbable firmness of the British general proved +resistless, and Massena was compelled to save his military fame by a +masterly retreat. On the pedestal Clio is seen writing his name in the +chronicles of his native city. This garden forms a pleasant lounge, but +it is not so fashionable as the other farther down, at the mouth of the +river, called the “Jardin Public,” planted with magnolias, acacias, +Japan medlars, and gum, cork, camphor, and pepper trees. The band plays +here in the afternoon. The most beautiful of the public gardens is on +the Castlehill, intersected by footpaths and carriage-roads up to the +summit. On one side of the hill is the public cemetery. + +Cimiès. + +All the side streets which ramify eastward from the Avenue de la Gare +lead to the Quartier Carabacel, one of the most sheltered parts of Nice, +and inhabited by the most delicate invalids. Above it, about 2 m. +distant, or 3 from the Place Massena, is Cimiès (430 ft. above the sea), another favoured +spot, frequented principally by nervous invalids requiring a sedative +climate. On the top of this hill stood the Roman city Cemenelium, of +which all that remains are the ruins of an amphitheatre 210 ft. long by +175 wide. Just under the Boulevard Prince de Galles are artistic ruins +composed of ancient material gathered in this neighbourhood. They stand +in the spacious grounds of the superb villa Val Rose, which in shape +resembles Noe’s ark. Entrance from behind G. H. Windsor. The +first road right from the theatre leads to a Franciscan convent built in +1543 on the site of a temple of Diana. +178 + +The altar-pieces of the two chapels to the right of the altar were +painted by Ludovico Brea, a contemporary of Raphael, and the only +artist of eminence Nice has produced. The cemetery contains some +beautiful tombstones. In the centre of the “Place,” on a spiral marble +column, is a crucifix with a winged J. C. Above is a pelican +feeding its young, a favourite Christian symbol of charity during +the Middle Ages. + +A path in the corner of the “Place” leads down to St. Pons (p. 179). + +At No. 6 Place Garibaldi is the Museum of Natural History. The first +hall contains a collection of the fungi growing in the department; and +separate, under a glass case, specimens of those allowed to be sold in +the market for food. + +Nice: Drives. + +The best of the drives from Nice is to Menton, 20 m. east, +either by the high Corniche road along the flanks of the mountains, +passing above Monaco, or by the beautiful new road which seldom rises +much above the coast, and passes through La Condamine to Monte Carlo. An +omnibus runs daily between the Boul. du Pont Neuf and Monte Carlo by +this road (see p. 187). + +Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to Villefranche and back, 5 frs.; ½ +hour’s rest allowed. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 7 frs. Above the +Pont Neuf, near the Place St. François, omnibuses (without fixed time) +start for Villefranche, ½ fr.; St. Jean, 15 sous; and Beaulieu, 15 sous. +On feast-days a steamer generally sails to Monaco. In the village of St. +Jean there is a very comfortable country inn, H. Victoria, where +bouillabaisse can always be had. Pension, 8½ frs. And at Beaulieu, close +to the station, is the *H. et P. des Anglais, pension 9½ to 12 frs. +Those who go from Nice to St. Jean with luggage should leave in the +omnibus, but for Beaulieu the rail should be taken. A carriage with +2 horses to St. Jean and Beaulieu and back, 25 frs. The tour round Mt +Boron, ascending by the new and descending by the old road, costs, in a +coach with 2 horses, 15 frs. Time, 1½ hour. + +Val-Obscur. + +Nice to the +Val-Obscur, 4 m. N.—Take tram from the Place Massena to +St. Maurice, 2 m. N. It stops in front of the gate of the Villa +Chambrun, by the side of the Octroi. For the Vallon des Fleurs ascend by +the road to the right. For the Val-Obscur ascend by the road to the +left, passing the Chapelle du Ray. Carriages can drive the length of the +water-conduit. From this part the bed of the stream may be followed, but +as it is very stony it is better to keep on the path by the side of the +conduit as long as possible. The Val-Obscur is a deep ravine, 440 yards +long, between cliffs of an earthy +179 + +conglomerate from 200 to 300 ft. high, and 7 ft. apart at their +narrowest point. By continuing this path for a little distance past a +house on the side of the hill, then crossing over by a path to the +right, we reach the chapel of St. Sebastien, whence a road ascends to +Mt. Chauve, passing by Le Ray, with an inn, 1446 ft. above the sea, or +only 1324 ft. below the summit of Mt. Chauve. + +The Vallon des +Fleurs ou des Hepatiques is renowned for its olive trees and its +wild flowers in early spring. The commencement of the valley is about 10 +minutes’ walk from the St. Maurice terminus of the tram. A path +leads to the top of the valley. From the summit it leads round by the +head of other two vallons to the Cimiès road, which it joins nearly +opposite to the observatory, only a little higher up the valley of the +Paillon. The whole forms a very agreeable walk. (For Cimiès, see p. 177.) + +Nice: Villa Clery. St. Pons. Grotte St. +Andre. + +A much-frequented drive or walk is to the Grotte St. André, about +3¾ m. N. from Nice by the west bank of the Paillon and the Vallon +St. André. A cab with 1 horse and 2 seats there and back, +5 frs.; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 7 frs.; ½ hour’s stay +allowed. Carriage, 15 frs. But if the return to Nice be made by Falicon, +25 frs. When about 1½ m. up the Paillon there is a large gate which +gives access to the orchard of the Villa Clery, containing some orange +trees above 100 years old, yet in the whole plantation there is not one +well-developed specimen. The oranges are sold at from 4½ to 6 frs. +the 100, and packed and despatched to order. Almost opposite, on the +east side of the Paillon, are the more beautiful gardens and perfume +distillery of Rimmel. On the top of the hill (430 ft.), above the Clery +orchard, is seen the monastery of Cimiès, built in 1543 after the +original house, which stood near the Croix de Marbre, had been destroyed +by the Turks. The next large edifice passed on the west bank is the +monastery of St. Pons, +built in 775 by St. Syagrius, a contemporary of Charlemagne, on the +spot where the Roman senator St. Pontius suffered martyrdom. The emperor +is said to have spent some days here in 777 while on his way to Rome. In +890 it was destroyed by the Saracens, and in 999 rebuilt by Fredericus, +Bishop of Nice. In 1388 the treaty was signed here by which Nice was +annexed to the house of Savoy. A short distance beyond, at the part +where the stream St. André unites with the Paillon, 3 m. from the +Place Massena, is the asylum for the insane. First-class boarders pay +4 frs. per day, second 3 frs. A little higher up the +stream are the village, pop. 660, and (on a hill) the château of St. +André. The château is a plain house with a small chapel at the west end, +180 + +fronted by a terrace built by the brothers Thaon of Lantosque in 1685. +Part is occupied by a school and part is let. The chapel is now the +parish church. At the east end is a small petrifying spring. From the +château an avenue of ill-conditioned cypresses (the best have been cut +down) leads to the Grotte St. André. Fee, ½ fr. each. It is a +natural tunnel, 114 ft. long and 25 ft. high, through the limestone +rock, under which flows the stream St. André, dammed up at the outer end +to enable the man to take visitors through it in a boat. Near it are a +restaurant and shop in which petrifactions are sold. + +From the “Grotte” up to the 8th kilomètre stone the ravine becomes so +narrow that there is barely room between the high cliffs for the road +and the stream. It is so picturesque that those who have come to visit +the cave should walk up this distance, 1 mile, before returning. +Those in carriages generally pass up this way and return by Falicon, +a village perched on the top of a steep hill above the river St. +André. + +_To the +Observatory_, 1215 ft. above the sea, constructed in 1881 at the +expense of M. Bischoffsheim. Take the Abbatoir tram the length of +the Place Risso (see plan), where take the corner to the right and +ascend by the Corniche road. If on foot, on arriving at a well beside a +house, ascend the hill by the mule-path. The views are charming. The +establishment possesses 1235 acres of land. On the highest part are the +various buildings for astronomical purposes. A few yards below, on +the west side of the mountain, is a handsome building 228 ft. long and +46 broad. In the centre is the library, and the wing at each end +dwelling-houses. + + +Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque. + +(Map, page 165, and Map of Rhône and Savoy.) + +_Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque._—Diligence from +Nice to St. Martin, 37 m. N. From St. Martin to Entraque, on +the north side of the Col di Finestra, 8 hrs. by mule, considered equal +to 25 m. From Entraque to Cuneo by Valdieri and Dalmazzo, +24 m. N. by coach. + +Levens. Lantosque. + +The diligence from Nice ascends by the west side of the river Paillon, +and after passing the villages of St. +André (p. 179) and Tourette, near the ruins of Châteauneuf, +arrives at Levens, 1826 ft. +above the sea, pop. 1560, _Inn:_ H. des Étrangers, where the +coach halts a short time. After Levens it crosses the Col du Dragon, and +then descends into the prettiest part of the valley of the Vesubie, +where it passes through the village of Duranus, 18 m. from Nice, +pop. 1500. Then, after having traversed a tunnel 88 yds. long, crossed +the Vesubie, and passed by the hamlet of Le Suque (Suchet), 25 m. +from Nice, it reaches the village of Lantosque, 28½ m. from Nice, 1640 +181 + +ft. above the sea, pop. 1910, _Inn:_ H. des Alpes Maritimes. +On a plateau 765 ft. above Lantosque, and 1¼ m. distant, is La +Bollène, with a large hotel, charmingly situated amidst hills covered +with chestnut trees. The coach next halts at Roquebillère, pop. 1800, on +the Vesubie, 3½ m. from Lantosque, 32 from Nice, and 1968 ft. above +the sea. It is the station for the village of Belvédère, pop. 1250, with +a comfortable hotel on a plateau 755 ft. above Roquebillère. +St. Martin Lantosque. +Col di Finestra. +From Roquebillère the coach proceeds up the valley of the Vesubie by the +villages of Berguerie, St. Bernard, and St. Sebastien, to St. Martin +Lantosque, 37 m. from Nice, pop. 1956, and 3117 ft. above +the sea. An ancient village at the junction of the Vesubie with the +Salèses. In the “Place” where the diligence stops is a very good inn, +the H. des Alpes. Down in the town is the Belle-Vue pension, +6 frs. Up by the side of the promenade are some good pensions. On +the opposite hill, ½ hour walk from St. Martin, and 700 ft. higher, is +the village of Venanson, pop. 250, commanding splendid views of the +surrounding valleys. The lower parts of the mountains are covered with +chestnut and cherry trees, and the higher with large firs. From St. +Martin commences the bridle-path to Entraque, by the valley of the +Vesubie and the Col di +Finestra, 8269 ft. above the sea, called thus from a fancied +resemblance of a cleft in the peak to a window. Mule and guide to +Entraque, 22 frs.; time, 8 hrs. 1¼ m. up the Vesubie is the stone +which marks the boundary between France and Italy, and 6¼ m. +farther the inn and the chapel of the Madonna di Finestra, 6234 ft. +above the sea. Many rare plants are found here, especially the +remarkable _Saxifraga florulenta_, on the ridges of rock above the +sanctuary. Half an hour beyond, a lake is passed among jagged +peaks, and, in about another ½ hour more, the summit of the pass, 8269 +ft., is attained, commanding an extensive view both towards Italy and +France. At Entraque there is an inn, and a coach daily to Cuneo. + +Valdieri. + +A mule-path from St. Martin extends to the Baths of Valdieri, about 20 m. distant, time +7 to 8 hrs., by the Salèses, which it follows all the way to the Col de +Moulières, 6890 ft. A few miles farther northward it crosses also +the Col di Fremamorta, a depression between two mountains, 8745 ft. +and 8964 ft. respectively above the sea. It then descends by a long +dreary road to the Val di Vallaso, where it turns eastwards to the river +Valletta and the Baths of Valdieri. From the baths a carriage-road +extends 24 m. N.E. to Cuneo, passing by the village of Valdieri on +the Gesso, 2493 ft. above the sea, 10 m. N. from the baths, and +7½ m. S. from the next village, Roccavione, in the picturesque +valley of the Vermanagna. The coach then passes through the Borgo San +Dalmazzo, 5 m. from Cuneo, in a well-cultivated plain at the +junction of the Vermanagna with the Gesso. + +A more direct but not such a good path separates from the Fremamorta +road at a small hamlet about 4 m. N. from St. Martin, whence it +ascends northwards by the Col de Cerise, 8500 ft., and then follows the +course of the Valletta to the baths. “The Baths of Valdieri make +excellent headquarters for exploring this part of the Western +182 + +Alps. In every village an inn of more or less humble pretensions is to +be found; and, though the first impressions may be very unfavourable, +the writer [Ed.] has usually obtained food and a bed such as a +mountaineer need not despise. Apart also from the advantage of being +accessible at seasons when travellers are shut out by climate from most +other Alpine districts, this offers special attractions to the +naturalist. Within a narrow range may be found a considerable number of +very rare plants, several of which are not known to exist elsewhere. The +geology is also interesting, and would probably repay further +examination. A crystalline axis is flanked on both sides by +highly-inclined and much-altered sedimentary rocks, which probably +include the entire series from the carboniferous to the cretaceous +rocks, in some parts overlaid by nummulitic deposits.” —_The +Western Alps_, by John Ball. + +Puget-Theniers. Saint Sauveur. + +_Nice to +Puget-Theniers_, 42 m. N.W. by the Vallon du Var, which does not +become picturesque till Chaudan, 22 m. N. from Nice, at the +junction of the Tinée with the Var, where the horses are changed and +where the coach from St. Sauveur (18¼ m. N. from Chaudan) meets the +Puget coach. Puget-Theniers (Castrum de Pogeto de Thenariis, pop. 1450, +1476 ft. above the sea, _Inn:_ *Croix de Malte) is a dirty village +on the confluence of the Roudoule with the Var at the foot of bare +precipitous mountains. Coach daily from the inn to Guillaumes, pop. +1300, on the Var, 22 m. N., _Inn:_ Ginié. The roads beyond are +traversed by mules. Coach also to Entrevaux, 3¾ m. W. from +Puget. + +The banks of the Tinée are more picturesque than those of the Var. On +the Tinée, 40½ m. N. from Nice, is Saint Sauveur, pop. 800, _Inn:_ Vial, with +Romanesque church containing a statue of St. Paul, dating from 1309. Hot +and cold sulphurous springs issue from a granite rock called the Guez. +From St. Sauveur a good road extends northwards by the Tinée to St. Etienne, where there is an +inn. From St. Etienne, pop. 150, a good mule-path leads by the Col +Valonet to Vinadio (see map, p. 165). + + +Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda. + +Nice to the village of Tenda, by coach, 51 m., 11 hours, +9 frs.; Tenda to Cuneo, 29 m., 7 hours, 7 frs.; Cuneo to +Turin, by rail, 3 hours (see maps, pp. 165 and +107). This is rather a +fatiguing journey. The most beautiful views are seen during the descent +from Tenda to the Mediterranean. Nice.—Start from the Place +St. François. The road ascends the E. bank of the Paillon by the +villages of Trinité-Victor, pop. 1300, and Drap, +pop. 800, with a sulphurous spring called Eau de Lagarde. Beyond this it +leaves the Paillon and crosses over to Escarène on the Braus, +12½ m. N.E. from Nice, pop. 1500. About 1½ m. farther is +Touet, pop. 400, whence commences the tedious ascent of the Col +di Braus, 3300 ft, between the Tête Lavine on the S. and Mt. Ventabren +on the N. The road now descends to Sospel, 1125 ft., pop. 3500, on the Bevera, an +affluent of the Roja, 25½ m. N.E. from Nice. H. Carenio; coach +daily to and from Menton, 14 m. S. The +183 + +road now ascends the Col di Brouis, 2871 ft., whence passengers in this +direction have their last view of the Mediterranean. +Giandola. +Saorgio. +The descent is now made through bleak and barren mountains to Giandola, 39¼ m. N.E. from Nice, +1247 ft., at the base of lofty frowning rocks. _Inns:_ Étrangers, +Poste. Coach daily between this and Ventimiglia. To the E., on the Roja, +are Breglio, pop. 2580, and the ruins of the castle of Trivella. The +road now ascends a narrow defile of the Roja, which, suddenly widening, discloses Saorgio, pop. 1600, 400 ft. above +the torrent, composed of parallel rows of dingy houses among almond and +olive trees. On the top of the hill is the castle of Malemort, destroyed +by the French in 1792. From this the valley contracts so much that the +road has repeatedly to cross and re-cross the river on its way to +Fontana on the Italian frontier, 43 m. from Nice, pop. 1230. +Luggage and passports are examined here. Almost the only habitat of the +curious plant _Ballota spinosa_ is between Fontana and Breglio. The +road from this to St. Dalmazzo, 5 m. N., passes through one of the +most formidable defiles in the Alps, the Gorge de Berghe, between steep +massive walls of igneous rock. “The bold forms of the cliffs, and the +luxuriant vegetation which crowns every height and fills every hollow, +make the scenery of this road worthy to compare with almost any other +more famous Alpine pass.” —_Ball_. At St. Dalmazzo is a +hydropathic establishment, pension 8 frs. Coach daily between +Ventimiglia and Tenda. + +Limone. Cuneo. + +51 m. N.E. from Nice, 2 m. S. from the tunnel, and 12 m. S. from +Limone, is the village of Tenda, pop. 1800; _Inn:_ H. National; 2680 +ft. above the sea, and 1516 ft. below the tunnel; situated on the Roja +at the base of a rock, on which are the picturesque ruins of the castle +of Beatrice di Tenda, executed on the 13th Sept. 1418 by her jealous and +tyrannical husband, Duke Fil. Maria Visconti. Many rare plants are to be +found on the rocks over the village. The village church (1476-1518) is a +good specimen of Lombardian architecture. The tunnel, opened in +1882—4196 ft. above the sea at the Tenda end, and 4331 ft. at the +Limone end—is 9844 ft. long and 23 ft. high. The Tenda end of the +tunnel is at the hamlet called La Punta, and the Cuneo end at the hamlet +La Panice. From La Panice the road descends rapidly by the Vermanagna to +Limone, 3668 ft., 63 m. +N.E. from Nice and 17 m. S. from Cuneo; _Inn:_ H. de la +Poste; pleasantly situated in the valley of the Vermanagna, from which +an occasional glimpse may be had of Monte Viso, 12,670 ft. The road, +after passing Robillante, Roccavione, and Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, +pop. 4600, arrives at Cuneo, +80 m. N.E. from Nice, 1500 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200; +_Inns:_ Barra di Ferro, Albergo di Superga; situated at the +confluence of the Stura with the Gesso. 55 m. N. by rail is +Turin. + +Mondovi. Acqui. + +The easiest way to go to Turin from Nice is to take the +rail to Savona, whence rail to Turin, 91 m. N.W. by Carru, Bra, and +Cavallermaggioré. On this rail, 4 m. W. from Savona, is the +Santuario di Savona, a pilgrimage church with large hospice for +poor devotees (p. 210). From Carru +station, 50 m. N., a branch line extends 8 m. S. +184 + +to Mondovi, pop. 17,000, +on the Ellero. _Inns:_ Croce di Malta; Tré Limoni d’Oro. From +Mondovi is visited the Cave of Bossea, about 15 m. S., in the valley of +the Corsaglia. Each seat in the conveyance, 8 frs.; cave, 2½ frs. +each, shown from June to October. 12 m. S.W. from Mondovi, and +about the same S.E. by coach from Cuneo, is the Certosa di Val +Pésio, formerly a monastery, founded in 1173, now a hydropathic +establishment, open from 1st June to 30th September. Pension, 8 to 10 +frs. It is well managed, and well situated for botanists, fishers, and +sketchers. + +At the station S. Giuseppe di Cairo, 13 m. W. from Savona, is the +junction with line to Alessandria, 52 m. N., by Acqui, 31 m. +N., traversing a picturesque country, between S. Giuseppe and +Acqui, where it passes down the beautiful valley of the Bormida. + +Acqui, pop. 8000, on the +Bormida, and 21 m. S. by rail from Alessandria. _Hotels:_ +Italia; Moro. The town is partly on and partly round the Castello. On +the other side of the river is the bathing establishment, a large +building with abundant accommodation. The pension price per day is from +9 to 12 frs., including the use of the water, which, besides being +drank, is employed both in water and in mud baths. The waters are +sulphurous and alkaline, temp. 120°, and were known to the Romans under +the name of the Aquæ Statielæ, yet of their times nothing exists but the +ruins of an aqueduct. The mud-baths of Acqui are remedies of +considerable power. The patient remains immersed for about half an hour +in the humus or mineralised mud of a temperature as hot as he can bear. +Immediately after he receives a warm mineral water bath. “The +therapeutic influence of this application is most evident in chronic +articular enlargements, rheumatic arthritis, some indolent tumours, +intractable cases of secondary syphilis, and rheumatism.” —Dr. +Madden’s _Health Resorts_. + +Villefranche. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +142½ +12½ +VILLEFRANCHE, +pop. 3500. Approached by omnibuses from the Pont Vieux at Nice, also by +rail. Station at the head of the bay. _Hotel:_ Marine. Pleasant +boating excursions may be taken here to the peninsulas of St. John and +the Hospice. The climate of Villefranche resembles that of Cimiès and +Carabacel. 2 m. E. from Nice, at the head of a deep narrow bay, +2 m. long, are the arsenal, fortress, and port of +Villefranche, founded in the 13th cent. by Charles II., King +of Naples. +The bay is a favourite place of anchorage of the French squadron, as +well as of other ships of war and yachts. Boat from the mole to the +little pier on the peninsula of St. Jean, 1 fr. each person. From +Villefranche commences the splendid Road to Monaco, 8 m. +long and 18 ft. wide, exclusive of the space for foot-passengers. This +most enjoyable carriage-drive skirts with the railway the base of the +precipitous cliffs which rise from the sea. 1 m. from Villefranche +by rail, or 1¾ by road, is + + +opp. 185 +THE CORNICHE ROAD +NICE to MENTON + +see caption + + +Beaulieu. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +143½ +11½ +BEAULIEU, famed for its +large olive trees. A little above +185 + +the station is one of the oldest trees, and near it the H. des +Anglais among “countless terraces, where olives rise unchilled by +autumn’s blast or wintry skies.” Down towards the village is another old +olive tree, not far from a restaurant. Near the Church on the Monaco +road is the Restaurant Beau-Rivage, where a Bouillabaisse lunch can be +had. In the creek below are small boats for hire. Beaulieu is really a +beautiful place. It is situated in one of the most sheltered nooks of +the Riviera, at the foot of gigantic cliffs with patches of strata of +reddish sandstone. The edges of this grand precipice are fringed with +trees, which in the bright atmosphere look almost as if they were +transparent; while below, groves of stately olive trees cover the base +and struggle as far up as they can by the fissures in the rocks. Behind +the olives, and intermixed with them, are orchards of orange and lemon +trees, bending under the weight of their beautiful fruit. Trees and tall +shrubs hang over the edges of the abrupt banks, which enclose the tiny +creeks and bays bordered with diminutive sandy beaches, or with long +ledges of marble rocks, dipping gradually down into the deep-blue water, +carpeted in some places with the thin flat siliceous leaves of the +Posidonia Caulini, a Naiad not an alga, which covers the shore of +the Mediterranean, and of which great accumulations are seen thrown up +at various parts. It makes a poor manure, but prevents in some degree +evaporation. + +Port of St. Jean. + +A charming road, at some parts rather narrow for a carriage, leads +from Beaulieu round by the edge of the bay and east side of the +peninsula to the Port of +St. Jean. The real carriage-road commences at the railway +bridge, goes round by the west side of the peninsula, and descends to +St. Jean, a little before reaching the chapel of St. Francis. The +continuation past the chapel, of the road, extends to the lighthouse, +passing the signal-tower to the right. + +The port of St. Jean, _Inn:_ H. Victoria, is used +principally by the tunny fishing-boats from February to April. It makes +a very pleasant residence for artists and naturalists. It is situated +among creeks and bays, gardens, orchards, villas, and woods, in the most +fertile part of the peninsula. Beyond, on the highest point of the +peninsula of St. Hospice, is a round tower, the remains of the +fortifications razed by the Duke of Berwick in 1706. The more ancient +crumbling masonry around belonged to a stronghold of the Saracens, +whence they were driven in the 10th cent. “A fir-clad mound amid +the savage wild bears on its brow a village, walled and isled in lone +seclusion round its ancient tower. It was a post of Saracens, whose +186 + +fate made them the masters for long years of lands remote and scattered +o’er a hundred strands.” —_Guido and Lita_, by the Marquis of +Lorne. Below, towards the point, are a cemetery, a church, 11th +cent., visited by Victor Emmanuel in 1821, and a battery. + +Lighthouse. + +At the south extremity of the peninsula of St. Jean is the lighthouse +(second-class), built in the 17th cent., but repaired, and the top story +added, in 1836. It is 98 ft. high, or 196 ft. above the sea, and is +ascended by 120 steps. The light is white and revolving, and is seen at +a distance of 20 m. The Antibes light is fixed, and is of the +first-class. By the east side of the lighthouse is the grave of Charles +Best, who died at Tenda, on the 30th day of July 1817, aged 38. The tomb +is hewn in the rock and arched over. His friends have laid him in a +grand place to await the call of the resurrection trumpet. Large +euphorbias and myrtles cover this stony part of the peninsula. + + +Petite Afrique. Eze. + +EZE. + +The most picturesque part of the Monaco road is between Beaulieu and +Eze, the next station, 2 m. distant by road, but only 1½ by rail. +The steep flanks of the mountains between Beaulieu and Cape Roux are so +exposed to the sun, and so protected from the cold, that this region has +been called the Petite Afrique. Cape Roux itself, the abrupt +termination of a lofty ridge, looks as if it would topple over into the +sea, to which it is so close that both the rail and the road have to +pass through it by tunnels. On the eastern side of this cape is the +equally picturesque and sheltered bay, the Mer d’Eze, backed by a +phalanx of lofty stalwart cliffs and mountains. On the peak (1300 ft. +high) of one of this confused assemblage of lofty calcareous rocks is +the nearly deserted village of Eze, pop. 770, with the ruins of +its castle founded by the Saracens in 814, and its small church, +recently restored, built on the foundations of a temple of Isis, whence +the name Eza or Eze is said to be derived. From the floor of rock of the +castle, under the remains of a vaulted roof, a charming marine +landscape displays itself, while inland is seen the Pass or highest part +(1750 ft.) of the Corniche road, which here crosses the ridge terminated +by Mt. Roux. At the Pass are an inn and a few houses. The road up to Eze +commences near the station. In some parts it is steep, and much exposed +to the sun, and throughout very picturesque and stony, passing through +plantations of firs, olives, and carouba or locust trees. The ascent +requires, doing it leisurely, 75 minutes. From Eze a road ascends to the +Corniche road, and another descends to St. Laurent, on the road to +Monaco. A little beyond Eze is the station for La Turbie. + +187 + + +Monaco. + +100 min. from Cannes, 35 from Nice, and 44 from Menton, is + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +149 +6 +MONACO station, situated in +La Condamine. At the station (6) an omnibus awaits passengers for Monaco +on the top of the S.W. promontory, 195 ft. above the sea. For Monte +Carlo, on the top of the N.E. promontory, alight at the next station, +1¼ m. N.E. + +Monaco proper, pop. 1200. Hôtel de la Paix, 7½ frs., splendid +view from the square. Pharmacies under the direction of MM. Cruzel and +Muratore. Till the arrival of F. Blanc in 1860, Monaco was a poor +place, where the Prince and his subjects had to maintain themselves from +the produce of a few small vineyards and orchards scattered over patches +of scanty soil on the slopes of the mountains. But now that the +gambling-tables have brought a flood of gold into the principality, +wealth has taken the place of poverty, the palace has been furnished +anew, the humble Grimaldi church, 13th cent., thrown down, and in its +stead a majestic cathedral erected, the barns have been filled with +plenty, costly roads have been cut through the cliffs, the formerly arid +hills clothed with exuberant verdure, and beautiful villas have been +built in the midst of enchanting gardens, in places where, only a few +years ago, hardly enough of short wiry grass could grow to feed a goat. +The gambling establishment of Monaco was opened in 1856 by a company +with the sanction of Prince Charles III. The first house was in the +Place du Château; whence, after sundry changes, the company commenced to +build a house in 1858 on Monte Carlo. Becoming short of funds, they sold +their rights and property in 1860 to François Blanc. + +The Grimaldi family have been in possession of this small territory +since 968, when the Emperor Otto I. gave it to Grimaldi I., +Lord of Antibes and father of Giballin Grimaldi, who drove the Saracens +from the Grand-Fraxinet of St. Tropez +(p. 145). The greatest length of the principality, from the +cemetery wall at the western extremity to the brook St. Roman at the +eastern, is (including curves) 3½ m., and the greatest breadth, +from Point St. Martin northwards, 1 m. Population 10,000, +distributed among four different centres—the city, or Monaco +proper; the port, or La Condamine; Monte Carlo; and Les Moulins. They +are all united excepting the city, which, like an eagle’s nest, occupies +its own isolated rock, and is the one clean old town on the whole coast +of the Mediterranean, and, although about 200 ft. above the sea, is most +easily accessible by well-planned and gently-sloping roads. +Monaco: The Palace. +At the landward or north end of the promontory is the palace, of which +the rooms in the upper floor on the west side are shown to the public on +188 + +certain days. The earliest parts, including the crenellated towers, date +from the commencement of the 13th cent., but the rest is much more +modern and of different dates. It is in the form of an oblong rectangle, +the south small side being occupied by the entrance and the north by the +chapel, sumptuously decorated with marble, gilding, and mosaics. Within +the entrance is the Cour d’Honneur, decorated on the east side with +friezes and designs in fresco by Caravaggio, retouched in 1865, +representing the triumphal procession of Bacchus. On the opposite side a +horse-shoe marble staircase, of 30 steps in each branch, leads up to an +arcaded corridor. Under the 12 inner arches are frescoes by Carloni, +representing the feats of Hercules. The rooms shown are to the left and +right of the entrance passage, at the north end of the corridor. To left +the first room is the usher’s room. The second is in blue satin; +hangings and furniture in style Louis XV.; some family portraits on the +walls. 3. Reception-room in red; handsome chimney-piece of one stone. +Bust and full-length portrait of Charles III., Prince of Monaco. +Ceiling painted in fresco by Horace Ferrari. 4. Room with brown hangings +and green furniture. On the walls are some indifferently executed +pictures representing the exploits of the Grimaldis. 5. Bedroom with red +furniture; style Louis XIII. + +Rooms on right hand of passage. 1. Sitting-room of the Duke of York, +brother of George III.; red furniture and hangings; family +portraits, some very good, and frescoes by Annibale Carracci. 2. The +bedroom in which he died, 1760; the walls hung with rich embroidered +scarlet satin; ceiling painted in fresco by Ann. Carracci. Table in +mosaic. Elegant bedstead, shut off by a richly-gilt banister or low +screen. 3. Sitting-room in pale yellow; style Louis XV. 4. Bedroom. +Furniture and walls covered with white satin richly embroidered. + +The door in the N.W. corner of the court gives access to a very +pretty garden, 130 ft. above the sea, full of palms, orange trees, and +flowers. Below, near the beach, is the kitchen garden. + +At the southern part of the town is the cathedral, built with money +bequeathed by Blanc. It is placed from north to south, is 75 yards long, +and at the transepts 32 yards. In front, handsome terrace and good view. +Northward, in the Rue de Lorraine, is the Church des Penitents Noirs, +and a little way farther down the same street are the Église de la +Visitation, founded in 1663, its schools, and the Hôtel Dieu. Down on +the face of the southern cliffs is the domain of the washerwomen. They +spread their clothes to dry on the hot rocks, or +189 + +over the prickly pear plants, here very abundant. At this end is also +the Jardin St. Martin, a very pretty promenade, with charming +views. 500 yards west from the foot of the Monaco rock, on the splendid +road to Villefranche, is the cemetery, whose wall forms the western +limit of the principality. Among the many tombs there is a beautiful +marble monument to Pierre and Modestine Neri, brother and sister. + +La Condamine. St. Devota. + +On the little plain between the promontories of Monaco and Monte +Carlo is La +Condamine, whose handsome houses extend, where practicable, +a considerable way up the surrounding mountains. In the picturesque +gully, entered from beneath the railway viaduct, is the parish church, +on the spot where the body of Santa Devota, a Roman martyr, the patroness +of Monaco, was washed ashore. In 1070 Hugues, Prince of Monaco, caused +the nose and ears of Captain Antinopes to be cut off for having stolen +the relics of St. Devota. La Condamine contains the harbour and the +principal railway station, as well as the less expensive hotels, such as +the G. H. des Bains between the sea and the gas-works, and the +Bristol on the terrace. Within the town, the Condamine; Étrangers; +Angleterre; Beau-Séjour; Beau Site; France; Marseille; in all, board and +lodging from 8 to 10 frs. At the station the H. Nice and Des +Voyageurs. On the road up to Monte Carlo are the first-class hotels: +Princes; *Beau Rivage; *Monte Carlo, occupying the house the late Madame +Blanc built for herself. On Monte Carlo are the first-class houses: the +Paris; the *Grand Hotel; *Des Anglais; Russie; Londres; Colonies; still +higher up, the *Victoria in the principality, but on the confines of +France; in all, 15 to 20 frs. per day. Behind the Londres a narrow lane +leads up to the Corniche road by the village of Le Carniet. Those hotels +marked in this instance with an asterisk do not receive promiscuous +company. Abundance of excellent restaurants, cafés, and furnished rooms. +English chapel in France, above the Hôtel Victoria. Mean winter +temperature, 49°.3. _Cabs._—The course, within the +principality, 1½ fr.; the hour, 3 frs. To Menton and back, 15 frs. +The omnibus that runs between Monte Carlo and Nice by the new road +starts from the Casino (see page 178). + +Monte Carlo. Gambling-Rooms. + +Monte Carlo is not an isolated rock like Monaco, but the abrupt +termination of a ridge sloping upwards from Point Focinana to the +Corniche road and the Château Mountains, both a considerable way beyond +the territory of Monaco. On the face of Monte Carlo, or rather of +Focinana Point, is the Casino, a large and showy building, erected +in 1862 by F. Blanc (d. 1877), a native of Avignon, and +formerly the +190 + +proprietor of the Cursaal of Homburg. To the right of the entrance into +the Casino are the cloak-rooms, the ladies’ (dames) and gentlemen’s +(hommes) lavatories, and the reading-room. Fronting the entrance is the +concert-room—a superb rectangular hall profusely decorated with +gilt ornaments intermingled with paintings in fresco representing the +Muses and mythological subjects. It is furnished with 600 cushioned +arm-chairs covered with scarlet velvet. The stage, or the part occupied +by the orchestra, is less ornamented, and the colours are more subdued. +Directly opposite is a sumptuous gallery for the use of the prince and +his suite, entered from the large door at the west side of the Casino. +The orchestra consists of nearly 80 first-class musicians, of whom about +three-fourths play on stringed instruments. To the left of the entrance +are the gambling-rooms and the office where visitors +give their names and addresses before entering. In the first three rooms +are the tables for roulette, which is played with one zero, and at which +the smallest sum admitted is 5 frs., and the largest 6000 frs. or +£240. The fourth room, ornamented with panel paintings by Clairin and +Boulanger, representing young lady riders, croquet-players, fencers, +fishers, archers, mountaineers, shooters, and sailors, is devoted to +trente-et-quarante, at which the smallest sum admitted is 20 frs., and +the largest 12,000 frs. or £480. Only French coin and notes taken at the +tables. + +Les Moulins. + +Charming gardens and lawns with exquisite turf surround the Casino, +and under it, at the foot of the cliff, is a large pigeon-shooting +gallery. Entrance, 5 frs. Well-constructed carriage-drives and +footpaths ramify in all directions, up the hill to the Corniche road, +and along the coast either to Menton or to Nice by the magnificent +coast-road to Villefranche (see +p. 184). The whole hill itself, or rather slope, is studded, even +beyond the boundaries of Monaco, with beautiful villas, partially hidden +among orange, lemon, and olive trees. On the eastern side of Monte Carlo +is Les Moulins, +now quite a town, with shops, hotels, restaurants, and furnished +lodgings. Up on the main road is the Hôtel de la Terrasse, 20 frs., +dear. Down below on the coast-road, fronting the sea, is a small house, +the Hôtel du Parc. + +At the Casino it is not necessary to gamble, while those inclined to +that horrid vice will find more dangerous traps laid to catch them in +the clubs of the principal towns on the Riviera. In Monte Carlo no one +can gamble on credit. +Lemons. +About a quarter of an hour eastward from Moulins by the main road is the +valley of +191 + +St. Roman, with some very large olive and locust trees. In the +principality are also large groves of lemon trees. They flower and bear +fruit throughout the whole year. The lemons, which ripen in spring, are +called graneti, and those which ripen in summer verdami. They are the +juiciest, and as they keep longest, are the most suitable for +exportation. The best paper for wrapping them in is that made from old +tarry ropes. The manure preferred for the lemon and olive trees is +composed of the waste of horns, woollen rags, and refuse. + +_Excursions._—1640 feet above Monaco is La Turbie, +ascended by a road containing 860 terraced steps, of which the best are +14 feet long by 9 feet wide, but a great many are smaller, and the +most are in bad condition. The ascent, walking leisurely, requires one +hour. It commences from the Rue de Turbie, the second street left from +the railway station. At Turbie, pop. 2400, there are three +restaurants—the France, Paris, and Ancre; the first is the most +frequented. Bedrooms, 2 frs. Delicious lemonade, most grateful +after a hot climb. When up at La Turbie ascend by the tower of Augustus +to the little knoll close by and take a seat under the rock at the top, +whence “From ancient battlements the eye surveys a hundred lofty peaks +and curving bays.” But the one great view, which excels all the others, +is from the + + +Tête de Chien. + +Tête de Chien. + +The road to it ramifies from the Corniche road at the west end of +La Turbie. Carriages drive all the way. As there is a Fort on the +top, permission must be procured from the captain to approach the brow +of the mighty projecting precipice, which by its position commands a +splendid uninterrupted view east and west, but spoils that from the +other places. From the Tête de Chien eastward are seen every mountain, +town, village, cape, creek, and bay the length of San Remo. On the +western side the view is much more extensive, reaching to St. Tropez and +the Maure mountains. The east side embraces Monaco, Monte Carlo, Les +Moulins, Mt. de la Justice, Mt. Gros, Roquebrune, Cape St. Martin, +Menton, Ventimiglia, Braja and Bordighera on the Cape San Ampeglio, +which conceals San Remo, but not the entrance into the bay. The western +side embraces Eze, Cape Roux, Beaulieu, the whole of the peninsula of +St. Jean, a piece of Villefranche, the greater part of Nice, +Antibes, the lighthouse and peninsula, the Lerins islands, the Esterel +mountains, and the Maures above Saint Tropez, which close the view. +A good opera-glass should be taken. A stony road leads down +the west side of the Tête, through a plantation of firs, to the Monaco +road, which it joins near the battery (see map, +p. 185). + +192 + + +La Turbie. + +La Turbie, the +ancient Trophræa Augusti station, on the Via Julia, is a poor village, +composed of narrow streets, old houses, and gateways close to the +massive Roman fort, which, after having stood nearly intact for 1700 +years, was reduced to its present dilapidated condition by a prince of +Monaco in the reign of Louis XIV. The village is supplied with excellent +water from a spring to the N.W. of Mt. Agel. To the west of Turbie, at +the Colonna del Ré, a road descends northwards to the sanctuary of +Notre Dame de Laguet, at the foot of Mt. Sembole, 13 m. from Nice, +but scarcely 2 from La Turbie. + +The conical hill, rising over La Turbie, is Mt. la Bataille, and the +long ridge farther east, leading up to Mt. Agel, 3771 ft., are the +Château mountains. The view from none of these mountains equals that +from the Tête de Chien; moreover, the ascent is uninteresting, by stony +paths. Ascend by the first road east from Turbie, and when at the Turbie +reservoir turn to the left for the Montagne de la Bataille; but for the +Chateau mountains take the path to the right. This path leads round into +a narrow ascending valley, at the top of which is the summit of the +Château mountains, and the commencement of the peak of Mt. Agel, one +half-hour higher. The mountain immediately over Monte Carlo and Les +Moulins is La Justice, 911 ft., used as a quarry. On the top is a pillar +of rough stones, rudely plastered together. By the side of it are the +remains of a similar column. At the chapel of St Roch a road leads up to +the Corniche road (see map, page 185). + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +150¼ +4¾ +MONTE +CARLO station. Alight here for the Casino, for the hotels on +Monte Carlo, and for Les Moulins and its hotels. + +Roquebrune. + + +MARSEILLES +MENTON +152½ +2½ +ROQUEBRUNE station, +where the Corniche road from La Turbie joins the low road from +Menton. + +Roquebrune, pop. 1080, is 150 ft. above the station and the +sea, among great masses of brown conglomerate rocks. From the main road +a series of paved steps leads up to the village through a plantation of +lemon trees. The streets are steep and narrow, but the houses are better +and more comfortable than those of the villages similarly situated in +the neighbourhood of Menton, Bordighera, and San Remo. Near the terrace +is a small restaurant. On the summit of the hill are the ruins of the +great castle built by the Lascaris of Ventimiglia, who, in 1363, ceded +it to Charles Grimaldi. On a lintel on the eastern square tower is the +almost defaced sculpture representing a bishop’s mitre, with the +armorial bearings of the Grimaldis, and the date August 17, 1528. This +bishop is supposed to have been Augustine +193 + +Grimaldi, councillor to Francis I. of France, who repaired this castle +in 1528. A broken staircase leads up to the top. “No warrior’s +tread is echoed by their halls, no warder’s challenge on the silence +falls. Around, the thrifty peasants ply their toil, and pluck in orange +groves the scented spoil from trees that have for purple mountains made +a vestment bright, of green and gold inlaid.” —_Guido and +Lita_, by the Marquis of Lorne. + +Menton. Hotels. + +699 m. S.E. from Paris, 155 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 34½ m. N.E. +from Cannes, and 15½ m. N.E. from Nice, is + +MENTON, + +population 11,100, 16 miles S.W. from San Remo. _Hotels and +Pensions._—Commencing with those at the west end of the +Promenade du Midi, near the Gorbio, and going eastward through the town +to the Garavan. Those hotels with ² prefixed have a front to the sea and +esplanade, and another to the Avenue Victor Emmanuel II. The +asterisk signifies recommended. W signifies bottle of wine, and the +price given that of the cheapest quality. P signifies pension or +boarding-house. At the west end of the esplanade the ²H. du Pavilion; +the H. St. George, 9-12 frs., W 1½ fr., by the side of the Borrigo; +²*P. Condamine; *H. et P. Londres. These 4 houses charge from +9 to 12 frs., W from 1½ to 2 frs. Near the Carrei and the +Episcopal Church of St. John are the *H. Splendide, 9-12 frs., W 1½ +fr.; the Parc, 8-10 frs., W 1½ fr.; and the ²*Russie, 9-12 frs., W 1½ +fr. Now cross the Carrei, on which is a very sheltered promenade up the +eastern bank. By the side of the Place (where the band plays), built +over the mouth of the torrent, is the ²*H. de Paris, 10-14 frs., W +1½ fr. Same side, ²H. et P. d’Angleterre, 9-12 frs. Opposite, the +H. Camous, 9-12 frs.; and the Banque Bottini. Situated in the +busiest part of Menton are the *P. and H. Méditerranée, 9-12 frs., +W 1½ fr. Next it the house agencies of Amaranté et Cie and +Tonin-Amaranté; and a little farther, the Menton Bank of Biovès et Cie. +Opposite, the ²H. Westminster, ²H. Victoria, and ²*H. de Menton, +all large good houses, charging 9-15 frs. The H. Menton is +patronised by Messrs. Cook. Nearer the harbour, but with a front only to +the sea, is the Midi, same price. We now enter the eastern or most +sheltered quarter, called the Garavan. The hotels are large and +first-class, and charge from 10 to 20 frs., and wine from 1½ to 2½ frs. +The most westerly is the H. Italie, and, about 100 feet up the bank +behind, the principal house of the hotel. A little farther east, on +the same eminence, is the *Belle-Vue. Near the Belle-Vue, and on +194 + +the same level, is the Villa Helvetia, a benevolent home for ladies not +younger than 18 nor older than 40, who are received for 20s. +a week, which includes everything “except laundress and fire in +bedroom.” For conditions of admission apply to Ransom, Bouverie, and +Co., bankers, London; Mrs. Seton Karr, 30 Lancaster Gate, Hyde Park; or +Miss Mackenzie, 16 Moray Place, Edinburgh. Below, on the terrace along +the beach, is Christ Church, and adjoining is the Paix, +a well-furnished house. Then follow the *H. des Anglais, the +H. et P. Santa Maria, *Beau Rivage, Grand Hotel, Beau Site, +Britannia. Queen Victoria spent the spring of 1882 in the Châlet des +Rosiers, about 200 yards from the H. des Anglais. + +Inland, on the east side of the Carrei, in a warm nook, under the +shelter of a high hill, is a cluster of large and small hotels, just +behind the busiest part of the town. Of these the most prominent are the +first-class houses of the *H. des Iles Britanniques (expensive), +*H. National, *Orient, *Louvre, and Princes. Rather lower down are +the Ambassadeurs, Turin, Venise, Malte, Alpes, 9-15 frs., W 1-2 frs.; +the last five being less costly. Up the west side of the Carrei is the +P. des Orangers, pleasantly situated. On the road down from the station, +on the right or west bank of the Carrei, is the H. de l’Europe, +9-14 frs., W 2 frs. Almost adjoining is a second-class house, the +H. and P. des Deux-Mondes, 6-7 frs. The above prices include +service, coffee in the morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, but never +wine, excepting the G. H. de Menton, whose price includes wine but +not coffee. + +Menton has certainly some very sheltered nooks, but this only renders +the more exposed parts the more dangerous. The distinguishing feature of +the neighbourhood is the abundance of lemon trees in the small valleys +watered by mountain streams. The annual yield of the trees amounts to 30 +million lemons, of which the minimum price is from 12 to 15 frs. the +thousand. + +Menton: Bankers. Churches. Conveyances. + +_Bankers._—Bank of France, Maison Palmaro. +In the Av. Victor Emmanuel are: Biovès et Cie, Credit Lyonnais, +A. Bottini, and Credit de Nice. In 17 R. St. Michel, the Palmaro +Bank and the English Consulate. _House Agents._—G. Amaranté +and T. Amaranté, 12 and 19 Av. V. Emmanuel; Willoughby, R. St. +Michel. English doctors, chemists, and grocers. + +_Protestant +Churches._—Christ Church, adjoining the H. de la Paix; +St. John’s, near the Pont Carrei; Presbyterian, above H. Italie; +Vaudois, R. du Castellar; German Church, R. Partouneaux. + +_Cabs._—One-horse cab—the course, +1 fr. 25 c.; the hour, 2¾ frs. Two-horse cab—the course, +1 fr. 75 c.; the hour, 3 frs. 75 c. A one-horse cab for +the whole day costs 20 frs.; a two-horse cab, 25 frs. Donkey for +the whole day, 5 frs.; gratuity, 1 fr. Boats, 2 frs. the +hour. + +195 + + +Menton is situated round a large bay, bounded on the west by Cape St. +Martin, and on the east by Mortola Point. This bay is divided into two +smaller bays by the hill, 130 ft. high, on which the old town is built. +The platform of the parish church, St. Michel, is reached by 95 steps in +8 divisions. All the streets about it are narrow, dirty, steep, and even +slippery. The new town stretches out a great way along the beach. The +public promenade (about 40 ft. wide) bends round the west bay from the +town to Cape St. Martin. A kind of gloom pervades Menton. The strip +of ground on which it stands is narrow, and so are the streets. +Immediately behind rise great mountains with dark gray limestone cliffs, +intermingled with deep green olive trees and stiff straggling pines. The +valleys are narrow and sombre. The roads up the mountains are steep, +badly paved, and are generally traversed on unwilling donkeys. + +The pleasantest walks and drives are those along the coast, extending +from Cape St. Martin to the Italian frontier, to which there are two +roads, an upper and a lower. The former, the main road, crosses the +bridge of St. Louis, while the latter skirts the beach to the famous +bone-caverns. The _débris_ found in these caves, like the +shell-banks in the north of Scotland, consisted of the waste +accumulation from the food of the early inhabitants, together with the +stone implements they had employed. Four of the caves are above the +railway, a little beyond the viaduct under the Italian +custom-house, and two are just below the line close to the beach. + +Cape St. Martin. Gorbio. St. Agnès. + +Cape St. +Martin, 2 m. W. Tram from Garavan to St. Martin, 50 c. The tram +stops at the N.E. corner of the cape. On the road northward from the +cape leading to Roquebrune is, right hand, a Roman sepulchre, +consisting of a centre arch with a smaller arch on each side, all that +remains of the Roman settlement Lumone, mentioned by Antoninus. From +this a straight road leads directly S. through a grove of large olive +trees to the signal-tower in the centre of the peninsula. Beside it are +the ruins of a nunnery, which was connected with the monastery of +St. Honorat (p. 158). Afterwards the road +leading westward joins the carriage-way, which sweeps round the +peninsula. A stony path on the W. side, parallel to the road, +extends along the coast by the rocks and cliffs (see map, p. 185). + +Gorbio, 2½ hrs. or 5 m. +N. up the valley of the Gorbio, and 1427 ft. above the sea. Take the +road E. from the Pont de l’Union, passing by the entrance into the Villa +(Palais) Carnolès, and, traversing groves of lemon and olive trees. When +about 1 hr. from the village the road +196 + +becomes steep, and pines take the place of lemon trees. Gorbio, pop. +500, occupies the summit of a hill rising from a valley formed by the +stream Gorbio and by one of its affluents. The streets are narrow, +steep, and roughly paved; the houses poor but substantial; and the +little church, built in 1683, is dedicated “Soli Deo.” At the upper end +of the village is a beautiful tulip tree. The path northward from the +tree leads to Mt. Gorbio, 2707 ft., and to Mt. Baudon, 7144 ft. The +rough stony road leading to the right or eastward from the tree ascends, +in less than 2 hrs., to St. Agnès. It is easily followed, and unfolds +lovely views. St. Agnès, +pop. 580, is situated 2180 ft. above the sea, or 330 ft. below the +mountain peak, crowned with the ruins of the castle built in the 10th +cent. by Haroun, a bold Saracen chief. A narrow path leads up +to the top in 45 minutes, whence there is an extensive prospect. + +From the village descend to Menton by the path on the W. side of the +village, which, after innumerable windings, reaches the road by the side +of the Gorbio. On the way down it is difficult, among the network of +execrable paths, to follow the right one, which in descending is not of +much consequence, but in ascending adds immensely to the fatigue. If the +traveller should stray into the Vallon Castagnec or Primevères, the bed +of the stream should be followed as much as possible. One excursion +should be made of Gorbio and St. Agnès, commencing with Gorbio. + +Annonciade. Castellar. + +Convent and Chapel of the Annonciade, 722 ft. above the sea, on the ridge +between the Carrei and the Borrigo. Walk up the right or west bank of +the Carrei to beyond the railway bridge, the length of the Hôtel +Beau-Séjour, whence the path commences. Opposite, on the other side of +the river, is seen the Hôtel des Iles Britanniques. The object of this +easy excursion is the charming view from the terrace in front of the +convent. The walls of the church are covered with votive offerings. + +Castellar, 1280 ft. +above the sea, 4 m. north, pop. 770. The road commences from the +narrow street, R. de la Caserne, a few yards W. from the Place du +Marché. Having passed a church, it enters on the broad highway which +skirts the flanks of the steep mountains, covered with lemon and olive +trees, rising from the left or east side of the stream Menton. With a +few interruptions the road is excellent all the way. Castellar, on the +plateau of St. Sebastian, surrounded by olive trees, is a poor village, +consisting of three narrow dirty parallel streets lined with ugly dingy +houses, and terminating +197 + +at the N. end with the parish church, rebuilt in 1867. Near the church +are the crumbling ruins of a castle of the Lascaris, descendants of the +Byzantine Emperors. From the terrace, where there are some beautiful elm +trees, is a charming view. Here also the village feast-day is held on +the 20th of January. From Castellar 2 to 3 hrs. are required for the +ascent of the Berceau, 3640 ft. above the sea, commanding a magnificent +prospect. Guide advisable. + +Bennet’s Garden. + +Pont St. +Louis, Bennet’s Garden, Hamlets of Grimaldi and Ciotti.—At the +east end of the Garavan is the boundary between France and Italy, +a narrow ravine with cliffs 215 ft. high, spanned by a bridge of +one arch 72 ft. wide. From this, on the first projecting point, are an +Italian custom-house station and the two entrances into the Bennet +Garden. The lower entrance is just before reaching the top of the point, +the other is by the path ascending from the point to Grimaldi. The upper +entrance is by the side of the square tower converted into a villa. The +garden on terraces is an oasis among cliffs, rocks, and stones, and is +chiefly remarkable for the number of English garden flowers in full +bloom in the middle of winter. The views from the walks are +charming. + +The continuation of the path, or rather stair, up the steep rocky +hill leads to Grimaldi, a few straggling cottages among olive and +lemon trees. After Grimaldi the path crosses the top of the ridge, and +having passed up by the E. or left side of the Vallon St. Louis, ascends +the hill, on the top of which is the hamlet of Ciotti (1090 ft.), +consisting of some 20 houses compactly grouped together. N.E. from +Ciotti is Mt. Belinda, 1837 ft. + +La Mortola. Hanbury Grounds. + +La Mortola, about +2 m. E. from Garavan. The Menton and Ventimiglia omnibus passes through +Mortola by the gate (200 ft. above the sea) of the Hanbury Grounds, +consisting of 99 acres, sloping down to the beach by terraces. Large +olive trees occupy the larger portion, while in the more sheltered nooks +are palms, orange and lemon trees. On a level with the house, the +Palazzo Orengo, 150 ft. below the entrance, is the Pergola, +a charming walk covered with trelliswork supported by massive +pillars, up which climb above 100 different species of creeping plants. +Queen Victoria visited the grounds on the 25th March 1882. An excellent +view of the house and grounds, as well as of Ventimiglia and Bordighera, +is had from the stone seat a little below the Mortola cross, on the +highest part of the road, a little to the W. of Mortola. For time +and conditions of admission into the Hanbury Grounds apply to the +Palmaro Bank, 17 R. St. Michel. The +198 + +generous founder and father of the present owner died a few years ago. +Just beyond is the Piano di Latte, one of the most favoured little +valleys in the Riviera. Mortola is nearly an hour’s drive from +Bordighera. + +Les Moulins. Monti. Hermit’s Grotto. + +The most important drive towards the interior is to Sospel, 14 +m. N., on the road between Nice and Cuneo by the Col di Tenda (see +p. 182). Excellent carriage-road all the way, +ascending by the western or railway station side of the Carrei. In the +lower part of the valley are large plantations of lemon trees. To the +left of the road near the octroi are Les Moulins olive-oil mills, with +four stages of water-wheels. 4 m. farther up the valley of the +Carrei, on a eminence considerably above the stream, are the church and +straggling village of Monti. +The bridle-road that descends here to the Carrei crosses over to +Castellar, well seen on the opposite side. About a mile beyond Monti, +opposite the part of the road where it makes a sudden bend to the left, +is seen a small stone bridge on the other side of the Carrei. This +bridge crosses the stream that forms the cascade called the +Gourg-d’Ora. + +About a hundred yards to the west of the bridge, on the face of an +almost vertical rock, and at a considerable height, is a kind of window +or cavity called the Hermit’s Grotto. Over the entrance is an +illegible inscription in red hieroglyphics. By the side is another +inscription giving the name of a hermit who once lived in this +cave:— + +CHRISTO LA FECE. BERNARDO L’ABITO. +1528. +(Christ made it. Bernard inhabits it.) + +The inside of the grotto is composed of two rooms; the first, 6 yds. +by 4½, is continued by steep staircases up into the mountain for about +27 yds. At this extremity a large cavity leads into a second room, 3 +yds. long, with a floor sloping in the opposite direction to the +opening. Into this cave the crusader Robert de Ferques is said to have +retired from grief. + +At the time when King Philip Augustus had summoned all his nobility +to take part in the third crusade, a lord, named Robert de Ferques, +hastened to join the banner of the Count of Boulogne, his sovereign. +This Robert de Ferques had been recently married, and his young bride, +Jehanne de Leulinghem, unable to bear the thought of separation, +resolved to follow her lord and share his toils. She succeeded by +concealing her sex under a man’s dress, and set out with joy in the +capacity of esquire. Unhappily, during the journey she fell from her +horse, and was forced to stop at an inn. +Robert de +199 + +Ferques was obliged, with broken heart, to follow the army, and abandon +his young wife to the care of a faithful servant. But in a few days the +old esquire came with tears in his eyes to announce to his master the +death of the courageous Jehanne. The poor knight was so overwhelmed with +grief that, with the consent of the Count of Boulogne, he resolved to +give up the world, and consecrate to God, in the most austere solitude, +a life which he had already almost sacrificed to Him in war with +the infidels. In 1528 he seems to have been succeeded by the anchoret +Bernard. + +Castellon. Climate. + +The Sospel road now begins to ascend the Col de Guardia, pierced near +the top by a tunnel 260 ft. long, and shortly after it reaches the +walled town of Castellon or Castiglione, on an eminence 2926 ft +above the sea, commanding an extensive view, 8¼ m. from Menton, +pop. 320. 5¾ m. farther is Sospel, pop. +3500 (p. 182). + +_Climate._—Menton being protected by an +amphitheatre of high hills from the northerly blasts, the winters here +are generally milder. + +“A cool but sunny atmosphere, so dry that a fog is never seen at any +period of the winter, whatever the weather, either on sea or on land, +must be bracing, invigorating, stimulating. Such, indeed, are the +leading characteristics of the climate of this region—the +Undercliff of western Europe. Such a climate is perfection for all who +want bracing, renovating—for the very young, the invalid +middle-aged, and the very old, in whom vitality, defective or flagging, +requires rousing and stimulating. The cool but pleasant temperature, the +stimulating influence of the sunshine, the general absence of rain or of +continued rain, the dryness of the air, render daily exercise out of +doors both possible and agreeable. I selected Menton as my winter +residence six years ago, because I was suffering from advanced pulmonary +consumption, and after six winters passed at Menton I am now +surrounded by a little tribe of cured or arrested consumption cases. +This curative result has only been attained, in every instance, by +rousing and improving the organic powers, and principally those of +nutrition. If a consumption patient can be improved in health, and thus +brought to eat and sleep well, thoroughly digesting and assimilating +food, the battle is half won; and helping the physician to attain this +end is the principal benefit of the winter climate of the Riviera.” +—Bennet’s _Winter Climates_. + +“With all its vaunted security from biting winds, and its mountain +shelter from the northern blasts, Menton lies most invitingly open to +the south, south-east, and south-west, and winter winds from these +directions can be chilly enough at times. What tells so keenly upon the +weak and susceptible is the land breeze, which regularly at sundown +steals from the mountains towards the sea. The mean temperature of +November is 54°, December 40°, February 49°, March 53°. When the air is +still, a summer heat often prevails during the day, though in the +shade and within doors the mercury seldom rises above 60°.” +—_Wintering at Menton_, by A. M. Brown. + +For the Excursions, see maps pp. 163 and 185. + + +opp. 199 +ITALIAN RIVIERA, &c. + +see caption + + +200 + + +THE ITALIAN RIVIERA, +or + +Menton to Genoa. + +By Ventimiglia, Bordighera, San Remo, +and Savona. + +Distance 100½ miles. See accompanying Map. + + +GENOA +100½ +MENTON. The road from Menton to Genoa crosses the frontier at the +bridge of St. Louis, spanning a ravine 215 ft. deep. + +6½ m. E. from Menton by the carriage-road, passing the village of +Mortola, and traversing the Piano di Latte, is + + +MENTON +GENOA +6¾ +93¾ +VENTIMIGLIA, pop. +8500, on a hill at the mouth of the Roja. _Inns:_ near station, the +Hôtel Suisse; in the low town, the Hôtel Tornaghi. All the trains halt +here ¾ of an hour, and luggage entering France or Italy is examined. The +new station is commodious. At one end of the luggage-room is a clock +with Paris time, and at the other one with the time of Rome, 47 minutes +in advance of Paris. The waiting-rooms, “Sale d’Aspetto,” cloak-rooms, +“Camerini di Toeletta,” and the refreshment rooms are all at the French +end, as well as the way out to the train. The town is well seen from the +station. The church occupies a prominent position; and close to it, in +the Via Lascaris, are the post office, theatre, and the best café. The +walk up this same Via to the town-gate shows the best part of the town, +while the avenues in continuation beyond it lead up to the best sites +for views. Not far from the station, on the right bank of the Nervia, +on a large sandbank, are the remains of a theatre and of a cemetery, +which probably mark the site of the ancient Albintemelium. What remains +of the theatre is composed of large blocks of greenstone from the +quarries of Mortola. The excavations have been carried on under the +direction of the inspector of historic monuments in the province. +Omnibus between Ventimiglia and Bordighera. Diligence once daily between +Ventimiglia and Tenda, p. 183. + +Bordighera. + + +MENTON +GENOA +10 +90½ +BORDIGHERA, pop. +2800. The old town, the Bordighera di sopra, is compactly built on the +summit of the eminence rising from the cape S. Ampeglio, whose +sides are covered with olives and palms. Down below, on almost a level +with the sea, is the low or new town, where most of the invalids reside, +though it is doubtful if the site is well chosen. _Hotels:_ the +best is the ¹*H. Angleterre, a first-class house in a garden, +near the station. +Similarly situated is the +201 + +¹H. Bordighera. Both charge from 10 to 20 frs. Behind the Angleterre is +the Episcopal chapel. West from the Angleterre is ²*Beau Rivage, 6 to 10 +frs. Immediately opposite station are ²H. and P. Continental, 9 to +11 frs.; the ²H. and P. Sapia, 8 to 9 frs., and the Bordighera +bank, where money can be changed. Eastward are the hotels ²Victoria and +²Windsor. Admirably situated on an eminence overlooking the Moreno +palm-garden is the ¹*H. and P. Belvédère, 8 to 12 frs. Near it +is the ²*Pension Anglaise, 6 to 9 frs. At the commencement of the +Vallecrosia valley is a Home with industrial school for orphans of poor +Italian Protestants, founded by an English lady. Omnibus between +Bordighera and San Remo, passing through Ospedaletti, a beautiful +drive. Also omnibus every half-hour between Bordighera and Ventimiglia. +It passes through the low town of Ventimiglia and stops at the +commencement of the ascent to the high town. + +The great feature of Bordighera are its plantations of palms, whose +tufted tops wave above the more lowly lemon trees laden with pale yellow +fruit, while the whole of the background is crowded with vigorous olive +trees. Some of the palms are 800 years old. The lemon, after the olive, +is the most profitable tree. + +To the _Tower of Mostaccini_, 1½ hr. there and back, by the Strada +Romana, till near Pozzoforte, where ascend by path right hand. This +tower, of Roman origin, and still in excellent preservation, served as +an “avisium” or watch-tower in the Middle Ages. From it is obtained a +delightful view of part of the coast. + +Isola Buona. + +2½ m. west from Bordighera is the commencement of the valley of the Nervia, 16 m. long from north to +south, with a varying breadth of 1½ to 2½ m. A good +carriage-road extends all the way up to Pigna, 11 m. from +Bordighera. On this road, 1½ m. up the Nervia, or nearly 4 m. +from Bordighera, is Campo-Rosso, on the Nervia, at its junction with the +Cantarena, pop. about 250. It possesses two churches, both 12th cent. +St. Pierre has frescoes, 15th cent., on principal entrance and on the +sacristy, also some pictures attributed to Brea of Nice. The +confessionals are in the gallery. From Campo-Rosso a bridle-path leads +up to the top of the hill, on which is the chapel of Santa Croce, +commanding an extensive view. About 2 m. farther up the valley is +Dolce-Acqua, on both sides of the Nervia, crossed here by a stone bridge +with a span of 108 ft. Over the village, consisting of houses crowded +together and piled above each other, rises the imposing feudal castle of +the Dorias, reduced to its present dilapidated condition by the Genoese +in 1672. 2¼ m. from Dolce-Acqua, or 8½ m. from Bordighera, is +Isola Buona, pop. +1200, with paper and olive mills, heath pipe manufactories, and cold +sulphurous springs. From Isola, a little way up the Merdanio or +Merdunzo, is Apricale, pop. 1000. South from Apricale is Perinaldo, the +birthplace, 8th June 1625, of Giovanni Domenico Cassini, the most famous +of a family distinguished as astronomers, who succeeded one another as +directors of the observatory at Paris for four generations. + +Pigna. + +A little more than 11 m. from Bordighera is Pigna, on the Nervia, +202 + +at the foot of Mont Torragio, 3610 ft. above the sea, a village +where the principal occupation is the cutting and sawing of the timber +from the surrounding forests. The church, built in 1450, has on the rose +window a representation of the descent of the Holy Ghost on the +apostles. The frescoes on the choir are nearly of the same date as the +church, and are attributed to Jean Ranavasio. In the wild and +picturesque ravine of the Nervia, above Pigna, is a copious sulphurous +spring, temp. 79° Fahr., utilised by a bathing establishment. Near +Pigna, on a hill covered with chestnut trees, is the village of +Castel-Vittorio or Franco. From Pigna a bridle-path leads, 4 m. N., +to Les Beuze, the last village in the valley of the Nervia. + +The most pleasant of the drives is to San Remo, 6¾ m. N.E., by +Ospedaletti. About a mile from the E. side of Cape S. Ampeglio is +the hamlet of Ruota, with a small chapel containing a group in alabaster +representing the Annunciation. A short way farther a path descends +from the road to a house on the beach in a luxuriant garden of palm and +lemon trees. At the inner end of this orchard, near the railway, is an +excellent sulphurous spring, temp. 70° F. After this the Corniche road +bends round to Ospedaletti (see below). On the hills behind Ospedaletti, +about 2 m. N., is La +Colla, 1000 ft. above the sea. In the Town Hall is a valuable +collection of 120 paintings, mostly by great Italian masters, such as +Frà Bartolomeo, I. Bassano, F. Barocci, A. Carracci, +Caravaggio, Cortona, C. Dolci, Domenichino, Sasso Ferrati, Reni, +Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, and Spagnoletti. In another room is the +library. The pictures and books were collected by the Abbé Paolo +Rambaldi during his long stay at Florence, who at his death (1864) +bequeathed them to this his native city. In the sacristy of the parish +church is a beautifully-carved ivory crucifix, bequeathed, along with +some other articles, by the Prelate Stefano Rossi, also a native of this +quarter. A coach with 2 horses from Bordighera to La Colla and back +costs 20 frs. + +La Colla is the native town of the sea-captain Bresca, who, contrary to +the orders of Pope Sixtus V., broke the silence by calling aloud to +“wet the ropes” when the obelisk was being raised in front of St. +Peter’s. 2 m. E. from La Colla is San Remo, which is 3 m. from +Ospedaletti. + +The climate of Bordighera is similar to that of San Remo; but as a +residence it is more rural and has fewer resources. The mistral at +Bordighera, instead of being a north-westerly wind, deviates by the +configuration of the coast into a west wind. + +Bordighera supplies Rome with palm-leaves for the Easter ceremonies, as +also the Israelites in Germany and Holland for the feast of +Tabernacles. + +Ospedaletti. + + +MENTON +GENOA +13½ +87 +OSPEDALETTI, pop. +1000, a small village with nearly a mile of frontage towards the sea, +from which it is separated by the railway. In the village is the ²H. and +P. Ospedaletti, room 40 frs. the month. +203 + +Upon an eminence with garden is the ¹H. de la Reine, 12 to 20 frs. +Adjoining is a handsome Casino, in which there is dancing even during +the day. The gambling is private, and on a small scale. + +San Remo. Hotels. + + +MENTON +GENOA +16½ +84 +SAN REMO, 16¼ m. E. from +Menton by the coach-road, pop. in winter 18,000. As Italy is entered it +will be observed that the women, the maidens and their mothers, are the +hewers of wood and drawers of water, and that to their lot falls the +menial work of the most laborious trades. + +_Hotels._—Those with the figure ¹ are +first-class houses, with ² second-class. The asterisk signifies that +they are especially good of their class. Commencing at the railway +station and going eastward by the principal street, the Via Vittorio +Emanuele, we have the ¹G. H. de la Paix, close to the station and +fronting the public garden. +Then follow the ²H. and P. Nationale, 7 to 8 frs.; the +¹*H. San Remo; the ²P. Suisse; the Rubino Bank; the +Squire-Pharmacy; the Asquasciate Bank; the Vicario Store; the ²P. +Molinari, and the ²H. Bretagne, frequented principally by commercial +travellers. Behind Squire’s is the Episcopal Chapel, and a little +farther west, left hand, the Post Office. + +On the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern continuation of Via Vittorio +Emanuele, are the ¹H. Nice and the ¹*H. Angleterre. Near the +Angleterre are the Pensions ²*Allemagne; ²Rossi; and ²Lindenhof; and the +Home for invalid ladies of limited means. Twenty-five shillings the +week; which, as at the similar institution at Menton, includes doctors’ +fees, comfortable living, wine or beer, and everything except washing +and fire in bedroom. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts & +Co., bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London. + +At the end of the corso are two large houses in gardens, with one front +to the sea and the other to the road—the ¹H. Méditerranée and the +¹*H. Victoria. Near the harbour, behind the Via V. Emanuele, +are the ²*Beau-Séjour with garden, and the H. Bains. + +At the west end of San Remo are some good houses, mostly on eminences in +gardens. Taking them in the order from E. to W. we have the ²P. +Anglo-Americaine; the Presbyterian Chapel; the ²P. Tatlock (German); +¹*Hôtel Royal; ¹*Belle-Vue; ¹Paradis; ¹*Londres; ¹Pavillon (moderate); +¹Anglais; ¹Palmieri; and the ¹*West-End, the most important hotel on +this side of San Remo, and situated at the commencement of the pleasant +walk by the Strada Berigo. In the first-class hotels the pension is from +9 to 18 frs., in the “pensions” from 7 to 11 frs. + +Omnibuses run between the two ends of the town; also between San Remo +and Bordighera; San Remo and Taggia by Bussana; San Remo and +Dolce-Acqua; and San Remo and Ceriana, 6½ m. N. (see map, p. 165). + +_Cab +Fares._—The course, 1 horse, 1 fr. during the day, and +1½ +204 + +fr. night. Per hour, 2 frs.; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, 1½ +fr. during the day, and 2½ frs. at night. The hour, 3 frs.; at +night, 4 frs. + +San Remo: Climate. + +Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot +of these hills, on the Nice and Genoa road, called at this part the Via +Vittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants, +booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. “The mean +temperature is 49°.1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet’s +estimate of that of Menton; while it would appear, from a comparison of +the thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny with those of Dr. Bennet +for the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly +3° more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from the +protecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelter +from the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vast +olive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them into +healthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, and +removing sensations of lassitude often experienced in too well-protected +spots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerable +choice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varying +distances from the sea, according to the requirements of the case; while +the numerous wooded valleys, abounding in exquisite wild flowers, +provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions.” —Williams’ +_Winter Stations_. + +San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as +at Menton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on +terraces built up with low stone walls without plaster. + +San Remo: Drives. Poggio. Madonna Della +Guardia. + +The best of the drives is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape San +Martino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From the +Hôtel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arriving at a part where +the road divides into two; one descends, the other ascends; take the +latter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the +“Strada Consortile de San Remo à Ceriana.” This road ascends through +olive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the carriage-road to +the Madonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory, +while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen on +the opposite side of the valley is Bussana. Poggio, one of the many wretchedly poor villages, +has two churches. The road, which has ascended all the way from San Remo +to Poggio, still continues to ascend by the Ceriana valley to Ceriana. +_Inn:_ H. Etoile d’Italie, 6½ m. from San Remo, +commanding ever-extending views, which, together with the profusion of +wild flowers, form the principal +205 + +attraction of the excursion. Cab with 1 horse to Ceriana and back, 14 frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs., +with ½ hr. rest. The Madonna road from Poggio is nearly +level. The chapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of +Cape San Martino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the +coast, Arma, Riva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the +hills behind them are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is +Poggio. To the west are San Remo, La Colla, and Bordighera. Cab with 1 +horse to the chapel and back, 7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs., with ½ hr. +rest (see maps, pp. 163 and 199). + +A good carriage-road, commencing near Cape Nero, leads up to La +Colla, on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. above the +sea, and 2 m. from San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab with 1 horse, +8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs., with ½ hr. repose. See page 199. + + +San Romolo. + +St. Romolo to Monte Bignone. + +One of the most frequented excursions is to San Romolo, 1700 ft. above the sea, and +4 m. northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or the Place +St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5 frs. San Romolo consists of some +villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which was +inhabited by the hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and from +it the ascent is made of the Piano del Ré, a ridge 3500 ft. above +the sea, between Mounts Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the +ridge, descend a short way the Romolo road, then take the path to the +left, and make for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path +ascends to the summit, 4235 ft. above the sea, 5 hrs. from San Remo, or +about half that time from San Romolo. “In making the ascent of Monte +Bignone, it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who +are strong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quite +practicable for sure-footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhat +trying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route is +exceedingly beautiful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almost +every turn; the path sometimes traverses forests of fir trees, with +amongst them innumerable bushes of the bright-leaved holly, at others it +runs along the edges of steep ravines and precipices: many curious and +rare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way; till at length, after +an ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, the +broad sloping and grassy summit of the mountain is reached. Continue the +ascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained, +and from which one of the most magnificent prospects imaginable +206 + +lies stretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of +more than a hundred and fifty miles, astonishing and enchanting the +beholder. To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and +in the far distance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte +Rotondo; on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the +western half of the San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Nero +surmounted by Colla, and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera; farther +away, the mountains of the Mentonean amphitheatre, and along the coast +successively the various capes and promontories as far as Cap d’Antibes +and even the Esterels; on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with +on the farther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di +Lampeduza, and Pompeiana and Riva on the seashore; while far away to the +east are the mountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di +Levante, with the Apennines in the distance; lastly, to the north is a +broad and deep valley, having on the other side a range of mountains +still loftier than the one on which we are standing, and above these +again, the snow-capped Alps stretching away in the one direction towards +the Esterels, and in the other to Turin. Looking now more closely into +the valley below, on a narrow ridge on the near side of the valley, is +seen the town of Perinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side, +Apricale; both of a singularly deep red hue, from the fact that the +tiled roofs only of the houses are seen from this great altitude. There +is a pathway leading down to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where +accommodation at a small but clean inn may be had for the night; whence +the return home can then be made by the Nervia valley and Bordighera, +altogether a most beautiful and varied excursion. (For the valley of the +Nervia, see p. 201, and map, p. 165.) + +View from Monte Bignone. + +“It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of +the splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must +be seen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest in +Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken with +ordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fair +health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare +and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a +lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue +Hepatica, Anemone, Hepatica L., a pink variety of which is +sometimes met with, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens +Canis L. with its trefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the +Primrose, Primula acaulis All.; everywhere over the summit +207 + +of the mountain the Cowslip, Primula veris; two species of Gentian, +Gentiana verna and G. acaulis L.; Ophrys fusca Link, also a +species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd.; Saxifraga cuneifolia; +Sempervivum arachnoideum L.; and lastly, in shady dells, Daphne +laureola L. With two or three exceptions, these flowers were found +in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for some weeks +previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many plants of +Helleborus fœtidus L., as also for the first time in flower the +large and handsome pink Cistus, C. albidus L.; this is the +species so commonly found above the region of the olive trees.” +—_San Remo and the Western Riviera_, by Dr. Hassall. + +San Remo +to Taggia, there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 horses, +12 frs., with ½ hr. rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or +from San Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey +from Taggia to Lampedusa, 2 frs. +The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d’Italia, +formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or +Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From the +east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of Castellar, +whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the Madonna di +Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The Taggia road +ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of +Badalucco. + +Taggia. + + +MENTON +GENOA +21½ +79 +TAGGIA, pop. 5000, on the +Giabonte, 3 m. from the station. An omnibus awaits passengers +(½ fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d’Italia, at the +termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road to Castellar, +situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, and about ½ +hour’s walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of the gaudy +sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirty town, +with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fair churches. At +No. 1 Via Soleri—the principal street in the town—is the +habitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering +the town, after having passed through the archway, take the street to +the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the +beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with the +ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2 m. farther east by rail +is San Stefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like +that of San Remo. + +Porto Maurizio. Oneglia. + + +MENTON +GENOA +31 +69½ +PORTO +MAURIZIO, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ France; Commerce. + +Porto Oneglia, pop. +8000, H. Victoria, on the opposite sides of a small bay. The most +important part of San Maurizio is the high town, +208 + +containing the principal church, of which the porch consists of a double +row of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interior +represents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on this +coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly +finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided +into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers with +attached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes are +covered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along the +edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly +hidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windows +and doorways. A good and much-frequented road, or rather promenade, +connects Porto Maurizio with Oneglia, about a mile distant, +beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplace +of Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After passing through a long tunnel we +reach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Piètro is +covered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence +overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens full +of orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the way +to + +Alassio. + +Alassio, pop. 5000, a +new winter station, 44½ m. east from Menton, and 56 m. west +from Genoa, built along the beach, and nearly surrounded by a high wall, +with at both ends a suburb beyond the walls. _Hotels:_ H. et +P. Suisse, opposite station, 6 to 9 frs. On the beach at the +E. end, the *G. H. Alassio, 8 to 9 frs. On the beach at +the W. end, the H. Méditerranée, 6 to 8 frs. Near the station, +the Episcopal chapel. + +Alassio and its neighbour Laigueglia are partially protected from +some of the cold winds by low but compact mountains belonging to the +chain of the Ligurian Alps. Pleasant walks and well-paved causeways +extend up the hills, while along the coast are pretty drives to Loano +and Ceriale, or up the valley westwards from Albenga. Around both towns +are many large carouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant. +Between Alassio and the next station, Albenga, is the small island of +Gallinaria, with a castle on the summit of the hill. + +Albenga. + +Albenga is 4 m. N. from +Alassio, on the Caprianna, and at a little distance from the coast. +_Hotels:_ Hotel d’Albenga; Italia; Vittoria. Their omnibuses await +passengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, the birthplace of the +Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in a broad valley watered +by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduous trees, and here and +there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon trees trained as +espaliers. A good carriage-road +209 + +extends up the valley of the Nerva and across the Col di +S. Bernardo, then by the town of Garessio and the valley of the +Tanaro to Ceva, 4 hours by rail from Turin. + +After Albenga follow Loano, pop. 3800, pleasantly situated on the +beach at the foot of a gentle sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the +Isola, pop. 1000, a sheltered town, with abundance of palms, +orange, and lemon trees, principally at the eastern end, round the +cape. + +Finalmarina. Noli. + + +MENTON +GENOA +59½ +41 +FINALMARINA, pop. +3500. _Hotel:_ Garibaldi. The church of St. John the Baptist, after +the design of Bernini, is richly ornamented with marbles of various +hues, mingled with rich gilding and bright frescoes, presenting a grand +combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is the church +S. Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. The +pulpit and altar display most delicate workmanship. There is a great +deal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant walks in the +valleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15th +cent.), and to the Castello Gavone, a picturesque ruin. Five miles +N. from Finalmarina is Noli, +pop. 1000, _Inn:_ Albergo del Sole, at the commencement of the +arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town, formerly a republic under +the protection of Genoa, is still partially surrounded by walls +garnished with rectangular towers. It is pierced from E. to W. by narrow +parallel streets, the best being the Via Emanuele II., which +commences at the beach on E. side by the clock-tower, near the inn, and +traverses the town to the W. side by the new church. The continuation, +outside the town, the Via Monasterio, leads up to the mountains covered +with vines, olives, and maritime pines. On the top of the hill are the +ruins of Noli castle, with walls garnished with circular towers. The old +church, 11th cent., is near the station. Fishing is the chief industry. +A beautiful road, 2 m. N. by the coast, leads to Spotorno. + + +opp. 211 +GENOA and SAVONA +to SESTRI-LEVANTE + +see caption + + +Savona. + + +MENTON +GENOA +74 +26½ +SAVONA, pop. 17,000. +_Hotels:_ Suisse, a large house in the Piazza di Teatro; +*Roma, under the Arcades; and the Italia, opposite the Suisse. In the +ancient seaport of Savona, Mago the Carthaginian deposited his spoils +after the capture of Genoa. The greater part of the town is now modern, +consisting of handsome gardens, boulevards, and well-paved broad streets +lined with massive arcades, and substantial houses built in enormous +square blocks of from four to five stories high. The rock, the Rupe di +S. Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupied by +the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. At both ends are small +harbours with shallow water. The +210 + +Cathedral, built in 1604, is, in the +interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in different shades +of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes of gilding. The +two large frescoes in the choir, and the other at the western end, are +by V. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. side nearest the altar, is +a triptych by Brea, 1495. Near the Cathedral, in the Sistina chapel, is +the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV., the uncle of Julius II. +In the church of San Domenico there is in the first chapel, left on +entering, a “Nativity” by A. Semini. The figure of the Virgin +appears rather large, but the contour and expression of the others are +admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the church is an +“Adoration of the Magi” by Albert Durer, in the form of a triptych. In a +small church, called the Capella di Christo, over the altar within a +niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800 years old. In the +sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to 500 years old. The +Emperor Pertinax, and the Popes Gregory VII., Sixtus IV., and +Julius II., were born in or in the neighbourhood of Savona. +4 m. from Savona by coach and rail is the sanctuary of Nostra +Signora di Misericordia. The church, built in the 16th cent., is covered +with precious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, the +intimate friend of Tasso. At Savona junction with line to Turin, +91 m. northwards (see p. 183). + +Albissóla. + + +MENTON +GENOA +77 +23½ +ALBISSÓLA, pop. 2000, +on the Sansobbia. This town is about a mile from the Port or Marina. +4½ m. farther eastwards by rail is Varazze, pop. 10,000, a pleasant town at the +head of a large bay. A little shipbuilding is carried on here. +Beautiful palm, lemon, and orange groves. This is the birthplace of +Jacopo di Voragine, the author of the _Golden Legend_, the reading +of which was the principal means of transforming Ignacio Loyola from an +intrepid soldier into a zealous missionary. Between Varazze, 64 m. +N.E. from San Remo, and Arenzano, 6¼ m. N.E. from Varazze, is +another favoured part of the Riviera, sheltered by a ridge of most +picturesque hills, of which Monte Grosso (1319 ft.) is the culminating +point. The road here passes through firs, umbrella pines, carouba trees, +cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees, and some fine shrubs of +_Phillyrea angustifolia_, with here and there just enough olive +trees to afford evidence of the comparative mildness of the climate. +About half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is the village of +Inoria. + +Cogoleto. Columbus. + + +MENTON +GENOA +85 +15½ +COGOLETO, pop. 1000. +From the station walk down to the town; and on reaching the main street, +the Via Cristoforo Colombo, +211 + +turn to the left. In the second division, right hand, at No. 22, is the +house of Columbus, with the +following inscription:— + +Hospes, siste gradum. Fuit hic lux prima Columbo; +Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus! +Unus erat mundus. Duo sunt, ait iste. Fuere. + +It consists of three stories, with one side fronting the sea, and the +other the main street. The rooms are small, and with arched roofs. That +in which Columbus was born (1435) is on the first story. Fronting the +adjoining room is a large balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, where +it is possible the boy Columbus learned to conceive the idea of a +continent beyond the Atlantic by having been accustomed to gaze on this +sea at his feet, with the knowledge that beyond it there lay the vast +continent of Africa. Although his parents were in humble circumstances, +they were descended from a family belonging to the most illustrious +nobility of Piacenza, who had lost their estates during the wars of +Lombardy. Boatbuilding and fishing are the principal industries of +Cogoleto. Map, p. 199. + +Arenzano. Pegli. + + +MENTON +GENOA +87¼ +13¼ +ARENZANO, pop. 5000. +*H. Arenzano, 7 to 8 frs., near station. One of the cleanest +towns on the Riviera, pleasantly situated in a picturesque country and +commanding extensive views of the coast. The road between Arenzano and +Cogoleto passes by Monte Grosso. + + +MENTON +GENOA +91¾ +8¾ +VOLTRI, and the next town, +Pra, may be called one. Paper-making and shipbuilding are the principal +industries. Map, p. 199. + + +MENTON +GENOA +95 +5½ +PEGLI, pop. 1000. _A winter +station._ The largest hotel is the *H. Pegli et de la +Méditerranée, with one side to the sea and the other to the public +garden and English chapel. Pension in winter, 9½ to 15 frs. On the beach +the H. Gargini, second class. Pegli is a quiet little village, +prettily situated on the sea, and among hills. It has constant +communication by tram and rail with Genoa, and is visited on account of +the grounds around the Villa Pallavicini, ornamented with +statues of Roman divinities, temples, triumphal arches, huts, and an +obelisk. But the remarkable object is the artificial cave, covered with +large stalactites, in the midst of a lake 5 feet deep, surrounded +by evergreen shrubs and trees so arranged as to produce wonderfully +pretty vistas. At one part the edge of the lake seems to join the sea, +although many miles distant. All this has been created on the formerly +sterile side of a hill, where almost nothing would grow from the want of +water and of soil. Water was brought from a great distance, and caused +to tumble down the mountain in cascades +212 + +into the lake, which had to be lined with porcelain to retain it. The +cave was then built of brick, and covered with consummate art with +stalactites, as in nature. The visitor is rowed in a boat about this +most curious piece of land and water. In other parts there are a +multitude of surprises, in unexpected jets of water, and in beautiful +peeps of scenery no larger than a picture. Attendant, 1 fr.; for +party, 2 frs. + +Sestri-Ponente. Cornigliano. + +1¾ m. E. from Pegli and 3¾ W. from Genoa is Sestri-Ponente, pop. +10,800. _Hotel:_ *G. H. Sestri, 8 to 12 frs., with +commodious bathing establishment at the foot of the garden. The beach, +composed of small pebbles, has a rapid slope. Good sea water can be +brought to bedroom every morning. The station is near the hotel, and the +trams pass by the gate. The interior of the parish church is superbly +gilt and covered with frescoes. Just under the wide spanned roof are +painted statues of the patriarchs and prophets. Sestri makes a better +winter station than the next town, Cornigliano, *H. Rachel, 9 to 12 frs., +with sheltered garden, 2½ m. W. from Genoa. Both of these towns are +considered from 4° to 5° colder than Menton. The tram passes the garden +gate of both hotels. After Cornigliano the tram and train traverse the +populous suburb of Sampierdarena and arrive at Genoa. The principal +railway station is at the W. end of Genoa. The Piazza Annunziata is the +terminus of the Pegli, Sestri, and Cornigliano trams. + +Genoa. + + +opp. 214 +plan of Genoa + + +MENTON +100½ +GENOA, pop. 145,000. The +hotels most conveniently situated for visitors are the G. H. de +Gènes, 9 to 15 frs., in the Piazza de Ferrari, opposite the theatre and +the post office; the *G. H. Isotta, 10 to 15 frs., No. 7 Via +di Roma, parallel to the glass arcade, and also near the post; the +*Londres, 9 to 10 frs., near the station; the Victoria, in the Piazza +Annunziata, and the H. Étrangers, No. 1 Via Nuovissima. The above are in +a line with the palaces, and cost 8 to 10 frs. Down in the port in the +Via Carlo Alberto, and most conveniently situated for those who have to +embark, are—taking them in the order from W. to E.—the Croix +de Malte, the H. de la Ville, the H. Smith, the +*H. Trombetta, and the *France. They charge from 8 to 14 frs. By +the side of the last two hotels is the Bourse, and in the neighbourhood +of the Bourse are the best money-changers. + +For Genoa to Turin, see p. +279. + +Anglican church in the Via Goito, a small street leading northwards +from the Acqua Sola Promenade. In the same neighbourhood is the broad +street Via Assarotti, with at No. 37 the Valdensian and Presbyterian +churches. Shops for filigree work in gold and silver in the Via degli +Orefici by the side of the Bourse, and at the foot of the Sestiere +213 + +della Maddalena, which descends from the Piazza delle Fontane Morose. At +No. 17 of that Piazza is a good shop for coral ornaments. + +Genoa: Cafés. Cabs. Steamers. + +_Cafés._— +*Café Roma, by the Teatro Carlo Felice; *Stabilimento delle Nazioni, Via +Roma; *Concordia, Via Garibaldi. The principal sights are the +church of the Annunziata, p. 212; +the Cemetery approached by the Staglieno omnibus from the Piazza de +Ferrari; the Palaces between the railway station and the Piazza Nuova. +The church of Santa Maria in Carignano, +approached by the Carignano omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari, passing +through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 138 ft. above the sea (p. 218). +North from the Acqua Sola is the Villa Negro, containing the Museum of +Natural History. The best of the drives is along the Via di +Circonvallazione. + +Florio-Rubattino have steamers to Bastia (Corsica), Cagliari, +Civita-Vecchia, Leghorn, and Porto Torres, in the north of Sicily. +Peirano, Danovaro, and Co. have steamers to Ancona, Brindisi, Catania, +Gallipoli, Leghorn, Messina, Naples, and Triest. For the English +steamers between Liverpool, London, and the ports of the Mediterranean, +apply to Lertora Fratelli, No. 2 Via S. Lorenzo. + +1-horse cabs—the +course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1½ fr.; every successive ½ hour, 80 c. 2-horse +cabs—the course, 1½ fr.; the hour, 2 frs.; every successive ½ +hour, 1 fr. Boats to and from the steamers, 1 fr. each. Rail +from Genoa to Turin, 104 m. N.W. +(p. 279). + +Post Office in the Galleria Mazzini. Telegraph Office in the Palazzo +Ducale. Best money-changers near and around the Bourse. + +Genoa is singularly constructed around a small bay on shelving +ground, rising rapidly from the water’s edge to the height of from 500 +to 600 feet. The old part of the town is a labyrinth of crooked streets +from 6 to 12 feet wide, and frequently so steep that steps have to be +cut in them. The most remarkable of the new streets is the Via di +Circonvallazione, composed of a series of lofty terraced “corsos” +skirting the face of the hills, commencing at the E. end from the Piazza +Manin, 330 ft. above the sea, and extending westward in a zigzag form to +the railway station by the Albergo dei Poveri. They are reached from the +upper ends of the Vias Palestro, Mameli, Caffaro, and Brignone di +Ferrari, by ramps and long stairs. The palaces, another feature of +Genoa, are large gaunt mansions, all similar in style—gates 40 +feet high, with marble columns—courts paved with various coloured +marbles—broad staircases, all of marble—rooms 30 feet high +with arched ceilings, and adorned with gilded columns, large mirrors, +crystal lustres, and mosaic floors; the roofs panelled, and the panels +214 + +divided by sculptured figures, and filled with finely executed paintings +in oil. The best churches and palaces are in the streets extending in a +continuous and slightly curved line from the railway station, at the +west end, to the Piazza de Ferrari at the eastern end of Genoa. + +Genoa: Palaces. Palazzo Doria. + +The visiting of the palaces is rather fatiguing, as the best works of +art are preserved in the upper stories, reached by splendid but lofty +staircases. The best two are close to each other, the Palazzo Durazzo +Pallavicini, No. 1 Via Balbi, and the Palazzo Rosso, No. 18 Via +Garibaldi. They contain specimens of everything for which the palaces +are remarkable. A fee of 1 fr. is sufficient to leave with the +keeper of the gallery. Most of the palaces have each of the rooms +provided with a list of the pictures and frescoes it contains printed on +a card, which makes the visitor quite independent of the servants and +guides. + +As there are so many places to visit between the railway station and +the cathedral, the best plan is to do that portion on foot, and after +having visited the cathedral, to take a cab from the stand at the foot +of the Via S. Lorenzo, and drive by the Via Vittorio Emanuele, +round by the ramparts, and up the Via Rivoli to the church of Sta. Maria +di Carignano. + +The only palace west from the station is the Palazzo Doria, +reconstructed by Montorsoli, 1525, and decorated and embellished by +Perino del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael’s, and a contributor to the +paintings in the Vatican. Perino’s best works here are Jupiter defeating +the Giants, in the principal hall, and the Triumph of Scipio, at the +entrance. In the centre of the garden is a fountain representing Andrea +Doria as Neptune, with his Sea-horses, by P. Carlone. In the +garden, on the other side of the railway, are a colossal statue of +Hercules, erected by Doria, and a monument to the memory of his dog +Rolando, given him by the Emperor Charles, who conferred upon him the +title of “Il Principe.” The tomb of Andrea Doria is in the church of San +Matteo, and over the altar the sword presented to him by +Paul III. + +Genoa: Via Milano. +Adjoining the Doria palace is the Via Milano, a terraced promenade +lining the western side of the harbour, as the less beautiful but more +costly terrace by the Via Carlo Alberto lines the eastern front. Walking +_eastward from the station_ the first large building is the Royal +Palace, No. 10 Via Balbi. This palace, formerly the property of the +Durazzo family, was erected after the plans of P. F. Cantone and +J. A. Falcone, while the staircases and terraces, which have been +so greatly admired, were by the Chevalier Charles Fontane. The +accommodation is extensive, but the rooms are small, excepting the +principal +215 + +reception hall, the theatre, and the library. The pictures are +indifferent. + +The Balbi Palace, No. 4 Via Balbi, built after the plans of +B. Bianco, and improved by P. A. Corradi, contains a large +collection of paintings—among others a Lucrecia, Cleopatra, and a +St. Jerome, by Guido; St. Jerome, a Virgin, and Jesus scourged, by +Tizziano; a St. George and St. Catherine; and the Infant Jesus, by +Correggio. + +Genoa: P. Durazzo Pallavicini. + +No. 1 Via Balbi is the P. Durazzo Pallavicini, one of the most +important to visit. The architect was B. Bianco, but the vestibule +and staircases (considered the finest in Genoa) are by +A. Tagliafico. The paintings are almost entirely by Italian +masters, such as Molinaretti, Guercino, Franceschini, Leida, Carracci, +Lanfranco, Procaccini, Cappuccino, Langetti, Castelli, Ferrari, +Vercelli, Reni, Merone, Cogorano, Zanotti, and Merighi. In the first +room there is a valuable triptych by A. Durer, and the gem of the +collection, James I. of England and Family, by Van Dyck. In the +reception room are other three choice works by the same master. The +frescoes on the roofs are by Boni, Piola, Davolio, and Bazzani. In each +room there are cards with the names of the artists and subject. + +From the Via Balbi we pass into the Piazza dell’ Annunziata, with, on the left +hand, the church of that name, the most sumptuous in Genoa, built in +1228 by the Monaci Umiliati, but altered and left in its present state +by the Conventurati in 1587. The façade, supported on six stately marble +columns, is unfinished. The interior is full of beauty, and resplendent +with glowing colours harmoniously blended. Over the entrance is +Procaccino’s masterpiece, the Last Supper. The frescoes on the cupola +are by A. Ansaldi, those on the choir by J. Benzo, and the +remainder principally by the Carloni. Among the other beautiful things +are the angels supporting an altar, the spiral pillars in the apse, and +the elegant columns of the nave. In front of this church trams start for +Cornigliano, Sestri Ponente, and Pegli every 10 minutes. + +We now pass along the Via Nuovissima, and at No. 6 descend to San Siro, which was +the cathedral church of Genoa till 985. The high altar is by Puget. The +fresco on the roof by G. B. Carlone. The marble columns are all of +one piece. Near San Siro, in the confined little square No. 6 Piazza +Pellicceria, is the Palazzo Spinola, with many beautiful +paintings, such as the Martyrdom of St. Barthélemy and St. Laurent by +Ribera, the Four Seasons by Bassano, Virgin and Child by Guercino, +a Magdalene by Guido, St. Anne and the Virgin +216 + +by L. Giordano, the Last Supper by G. C. Procaccini, +S. Jerome by Spagnolletti, a Holy Family by Albani, the Four +Evangelists by Van Dyck. In the fourth room is the gem of the +collection, a Holy Family by Rubens. The frescoes are by Tavarone, +G. Sebastiano, Ferrari, and Gallery. + +Genoa: Palazzo Rosso. + +In the Via Garibaldi, No. 18, is the Palazzo Rosso (Galleria Brignoli), with a +small but valuable collection of pictures by Italian masters, +distributed among the rooms denominated Spring, Summer, Autumn, and +Winter. The frescoes on the roofs are by Toila, Ferrari, and Carloni. It +contains also a good library. + +No. 9 Via Garibaldi is the _Municipicio_ or City Chambers, +a splendid building, entirely of marble, and covered with frescoes +representing incidents in the history of Genoa. All the rooms and +galleries are open to the public excepting the council-chamber, the Sala +Rossa, and the Sala Verde. In the first hall (the council-chamber) is a +portrait of Columbus in mosaic, and on the roof a fresco representing +him in the presence of Ferdinand and Isabella. In the second, among +other paintings, is a triptych ascribed to A. Durer, and in the +third (the Sala Verde) a beautiful bust of Columbus. The architect +was Rocco Lugaro, the ornaments and figures over the windows are by +G. T. Carlone, and the frescoes by Pavarone, Paganelli, Passano, +and M. Canzio. + +Genoa: Palazzo Serra. + +At No. 12 Via Nuova is the P. Serra, built, like most of the other +palaces in this street, about the year 1552, by the celebrated architect +Galeazzo Alessi. The size and distribution of the principal apartments +are excellent, and many are beautifully ornamented in fresco by the +brothers Semini, particularly the ceiling in the first antechamber, +representing the funeral games instituted by Æneas in honour of +Anchises. The dining-room was the work of the famous Genoese architect +Tagliafico, and is greatly admired for its simplicity and good taste. +But the greatest object of attraction in this palace is the grand salon, +shining with gold. Along each side are columns of marble gilt, +alternating with lofty mirrors reaching from the floor to the roof. The +architraves and panels are curiously carved and gilt. The fresco on the +roof is by Leon, and represents the triumph of Spinola over the Turks. +The roof of the next room was painted by A. Semini. + +The Palazzo Adorno, No. 8 Via Garibaldi, contains a good though +smaller display of paintings and frescoes. The same may be said of +No. 5 in this same street, the P. Spinola. + +At No. 6 Via Garibaldi is the P. Doria, with a handsome portico and +splendid halls containing a choice collection of paintings by +217 + +P. Veronese, Guercino, Murillo, Van Dyck, Domenichino, and +Tintoretto. We now enter the Piazza de Ferrari, with the post office, +the principal theatre, the H. Gènes, and the Accademia delle Belle +Arti, where young men assemble at night to study drawing, painting, and +sculpture. Important trams start from this Piazza. The Staglieno tram +stops at the cemetery; the Carignano tram at the church of +Carignano. + +The second street left from the P. de Ferrari leads to S. Matteo, built +in 1278, but altered in 1530 by G. A. Montorsoli at the request of +Andrea Doria, relating to whose family are the numerous inscriptions on +the church. Over the altar is his sword. The “palaces” in front of the +church belonged to the Doria family. + +Genoa: S. Ambrogio. Cathedral. + +In the Piazza Nuova is S. Ambrogio, entirely covered with +beautiful marbles and adorned in much the same style as the church of +the Annunziata. Among other paintings it contains a large picture of the +Assumption by G. Reni, third chapel right; St. Ignatius healing one +possessed of devils, by Rubens; and over the high altar, by the same +master, the Circumcision. The frescoes in the cupolas are by Carloni and +Galeotto. The large building to the right is the former Ducal Palace, now +the government house. The grand reception room up stairs is ornamented +with 54 columns of Brocatello marble, with bases of Siena marble. From +the windows is seen the tower of the Embriarci, constructed by Guglielmo +Embriarco, the inventor of the movable wooden towers used by Godfrey de +Bouillon in his attacks upon Jerusalem. + +On the other side of the Ducal Palace is the Cathedral, built in +the 11th cent., but repeatedly restored. The exterior and interior are +of black and white marble in alternate bands. The façade consists of +three large portals resting on spiral, plain, and twisted columns. The +arch of the centre porch has an immense span, bordered by bold fascicled +work, while over the doorway is the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in relief. +In the interior there is a strange mixture of styles. The nave is +separated from the aisles by sombre coloured pillars supporting pointed +arches, over which runs a series of round-headed arches. The roof of the +choir has frescoes by Teverone. The marquetry of the stalls was executed +in the 16th cent. The leading feature, however, in this church is _the +chapel of St. John the Baptist_, in the centre of the left aisle. It +was built in 1490, and ornamented with statues by G. Porta and +M. Civitali, of which the best are those representing Zacharias in +his official robes, Elizabeth, and Habakkuk. Under a canopy supported by +four porphyry columns is the shrine by D. Terrano (1437), said to +contain the ashes of John the Baptist, brought from Mirra in +218 + +1097. At the end of the right or south aisle is the chapel of Mary, with +a Crucifixion by Van Dyck. In the sacristy is preserved a vase once +famous under the name of the Sacro Catino (sacred vessel). It was found +at Cæsarea, in Palestine, and tradition asserted that it had been +presented by the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, and that out of it the +Saviour had eaten the paschal lamb with his disciples. It was believed +to be of emerald; and a law was passed in 1476, declaring that if any +one applied a hard substance to the vase he should suffer death, because +it was suspected that the material was only glass. + +Below the cathedral at the foot of the Via S. Lorenzo is a +cab-stand, whence drive by the church of Carignano and the Acqua Sola +Gardens to the Via di Circonvallazione, commanding a series of beautiful +views of Genoa. From the P. de Ferrari an omnibus runs to Carignano, +passing through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 30 c. + +Genoa: S. Maria. Campo Santo, or Cemetery. + +S. Maria in +Carignano, built 1555-1603 after designs of Galeazzo Alessi, is +165 ft. square, and 174 ft. above the sea. The statues above the +entrance, of Mary, Peter, and Paul, are by David. Of the four colossal +statues below the dome, St. Sebastian and Bishop Sauli are by Puget; the +other two are by Parodi and David. The best of the paintings (covered) +are—St. Francis by Guercino, Mary with Sts. Francis and Charles by +Procaccini, St. Peter by Piola, and a Descent from the Cross by +Cambiaso. But better than all the pictures is the view from the highest +gallery on the dome, 368 ft. above the sea, ascended by an excellent +stair of 249 steps, fee 25 c. each. The omnibus in the square goes to +the Acqua Sola Gardens. From the top of the little wooded hill at the +N.W. extremity of the Splanata della Acqua Sola is another fine +view. + +About 2 m. from Genoa by the western side of the Bisagno is the +Campo +Santo, the Staglieno cemetery, approached by omnibus every ½ +hour from the Piazza de Ferrari. The greater part of the road runs +parallel to the Genoa aqueduct arches, which follow the sinuosities and +inequalities of the mountain sides for nearly 15 miles. + +The front portion of the cemetery is rectangular, 656 ft. wide and +820 ft. long, surrounded by a double arcade of marble arches with a span +of 21 ft., and 18½ ft. high. Each arch can contain seven tiers of three +coffins each, the end space of each narrow cell allowing just room +enough to label the date of the death and the name of the occupant. The +poorest people are buried in the ordinary way, in the ground surrounded +by the arches. The richest have a whole arch to themselves, where all +that money can command in talented sculpture is made to +219 + +do service to the feelings of bereaved friends, by perpetuating the +memory of those they have lost, in the choicest and most costly marbles. +These lovely statues appeal more to the sympathy of the spectator than +the medley contents of even a famous sculpture-gallery. Above this rise +other two galleries, and behind the second on the hill side is another +large piece of ground. On a level with the first upper gallery, and +approached by 77 long white marble steps bounded by a massive parapet of +dark greenstone from the quarries of Pegli, is the mortuary chapel, +consisting of a great dome supported on 16 round columns, each of one +block of black marble 32½ ft. high. In eight niches round the interior +are colossal statues of Bible personages, beginning with Eve. The façade +rests on six white marble columns 21 ft. high. The whole vast structure +of galleries, stairs, walls, and floors is arched into cells and vaults +for the dead. +Genoa: Albergo dei Poveri. +At the N.W. end of Genoa, above the Annunziata, is the workhouse, +Albergo dei Poveri, 318 ft. above the sea, on the Via di +Circonvallazione, founded in the 17th cent., and containing +accommodation for 1300 poor. At the E. end of the city is a large +establishment for the insane, called the Regio Manicomio. + + +The Riviera di Levante; or, Genoa to Pisa. + + +Distance 102½ miles, time 4½ hours by “direct” train. See Maps, pages 199 and 211. + + +PISA +102½ +GENOA.—The best winter stations on the Italian Riviera are, +with the exception of Bordighera and S. Remo, those situated +between Nervi and Rapallo. The coast is exceedingly picturesque and +sheltered from the N. winds by precipitous mountains, covered at the +base with vineyards, orange and lemon trees, and on the higher zones +with olive, peach, and fig trees. Lord Carnarvon has been the first to +take advantage of the superior beauties of this part of the Riviera in +the choice of a site for a villa on Cape Portofino. Map, p. 211. + +Nervi. + + +GENOA +PISA +7½ +95 +NERVI, pop. 8000. *H. et +P. Anglais, E. from the station, with large garden, 8 to 15 frs. +H. et P. Victoria, on the W. side of station, 9 to 12 frs. On +the face of the mountain, about 100 ft. above the H. et +P. Anglais, the *H. et P. Belle-Vue, 8 to 9 frs., +including wine; admirably situated. In the Piazza, near the station, and +at the terminus of the Genoa and Nervi trams, is the *P. Suisse, 6 to +8 frs. Opposite, the H. et P. Nervi, 9 to 12 frs. English +doctors. Episcopalian service. + +Nervi, with the neighbouring town of Bogliasco, forms one continuous +narrow street 2 m. long, hemmed in between houses and +220 + +walls. On the S. side is the sea, on the N. high hills covered with +olive trees and studded with churches and cottages. Ten m. S.E. +from Nervi is Santa Margherita Ligure, pop. 5000. +*H. et P. Belle-Vue, 7 to 10 frs. A charmingly situated +town at the head of a sheltered tiny bay. In the neighbourhood is the +sumptuous villa Spinola, in the midst of beautiful gardens. The +prettiest walk is by the road skirting the beach to the village and +promontory of Portofino, 3 m. S. To the right or N. is the villa +Castello di Pagi, and on the fourth hill from the end of the promontory +the villa of Lord Carnarvon overlooking the little fishing village of +Portofino, and commanding a glorious view. + + +GENOA +PISA +18½ +84 +RAPALLO, pop. 6000. +H. et P. Europe, 8 to 10 frs. At the head of a small bay. +A good deal of lace and olive oil is made here. Among the many +pretty walks is the one to S. Margherita, 2 m. N., by the low +road skirting the beach. The high road is more beautiful, and a trifle +longer. + +Chiávari. + + +GENOA +PISA +24¼ +78¼ +CHIÁVARI, pop. 12,000, +at the mouth of the Entella. _Inns:_ Albergo della Fenicé; Locanda +Nazionale; Caffé Ristorante Priario. One of the best towns on the coast, +with well-paved and arcaded streets, substantial houses, and handsome +churches containing a few valuable pictures. The most profusely +ornamented is, close to the station, the church of the Virgin of Orta, +whose “sacred” picture hangs over the high altar. Chiávari manufactures +lace and chairs of light wood with twisted straw seats, plain and +coloured, called Sedié di Chiávari. Many of the organ-grinders are said +to hail from this town. 4½ m. from Chiávari, across the Lavagnaro, +is Sestri Levante, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ Grand Hotel, with +palm-garden; Italia. Trains halt a few minutes at this pleasant place, +the Segeste of the Romans. Sestri is situated on a bay terminating with +a promontory, on which is a garden commanding a grand view. Shortly +after passing Riomaggiore, 51½ miles from Genoa, the Gulf of Spezia +comes into view, with the promontory of Porto Venere and the island of +Palmaria on the right, and in front numerous capes, the chief of which +is Cape Corvo. From Sestri to Spezia by carriage and pair, 45 frs. + +Spezia. + + +GENOA +PISA +56½ +46 +SPEZIA, pop. 11,500, 1 m. +from station. Spezia, although near good scenery, has nothing attractive +itself; neither does it make a suitable winter residence. It has some +excellent hotels bordering the spacious corso along the beach, the best +being the “Croce di Malta,” a large and handsome building, 10 to 15 +frs. Then follow the H. +221 + +National; the Italia; and, below the arcade, the Brettagna, all +first-class, but the Brettagna is the most moderate. Boats with one man, +1½ fr. per hour; with two men, 2 frs. In 1861 Spezia was made a +station of the Italian navy. As a harbour it is one of the finest and +largest in the world. Napoleon I. intended to have made it the +Mediterranean harbour of France. The Royal Dockyard, at the southwest +side of the town, occupies 150 acres; while the artillery magazines, in +the bay of S. Vito, cover an area of 100 acres. On the W. side of +the bay is the picturesque Porto Venere, the ancient Portus Veneris, +8 m. distant by land, 10 frs. per carriage 1½ hr., or boat 2½ hrs. +The marble of Porto Venere is black, with gold-coloured veins. + +“To the N.W. and W. of Spezia is a chain of mountains, of which Monte +Bergamo, 2109 ft., is the most distant. It may be ascended from the +Genoa road, which runs under its N.E. flank. Nearer to Spezia is Monte +Parodi with a carriage-road to the top, whence there is a grand +panoramic view of the surrounding country. Near this is the village of +Biassa, whose inhabitants are supposed to be of Moorish origin. While +the N.W. coast of the Gulf of Spezia is rugged and hilly, the northern +and eastern portion for about three miles is comparatively level, which +renders it a good walking place for invalids. The valleys of the +Migliarini, at the northern extremity of the eastern half of the Spezia +valley, are also excellently adapted for invalids, especially at that +time of the day when the sea-breeze is blowing freshly. A favourite +excursion from Spezia by water is to Lerici and San Terenzo, about +6 m. S.E. The steamer sails at noon, and returns at 4. Lerici is in +a most sheltered situation, and remains in sunshine an hour after the +sun has set at Spezia. The house, a square old-fashioned Italian +villa, which Shelley occupied in 1822, is on the shore close to the sea, +near the village.” —_The Riviera_, by Dr. Sparks. After +Spezia, the train crosses the Magra, the ancient boundary between Italy +and Liguria, and arrives at + +Sarzana. + + +GENOA +PISA +67¾ +34¾ +SARZANA, pop. 11,200. +_Hotels:_ New York; Londres. This ancient town, with the +picturesque fortress of Sarzanella, formerly belonged to the Grand Duke +of Tuscany, who, in the 15th century, ceded it to the Genoese in +exchange for Leghorn, at that time a mere village. Sarzana was the +birthplace of Tommaso Parentucelli, who, from a simple monk, was in 1447 +elected pope under the title of Nicholas V., and who constituted +his native place into a bishopric. He was a great patron of learning and +founder of the Vatican library. + +The Bonaparte family lived in this town till 1612, when they removed +222 + +to Corsica. The cathedral (14th cent.) is a plain cruciform edifice, +partly of marble and partly of stone. Behind the cathedral, by the first +street right, is the citadel, two minutes’ distant; and about fifteen +minutes’ farther, the fortress built by Antelminelli, Lord of Lucca, +a beautiful though low machicolated structure on the top of a hill +overlooking the railway. Both citadel and castle are partly in ruins, +and well seen from the station. + +Avenza. Carrara. + + +GENOA +PISA +74 +31 +AVENZA. Station for Carrara, +3¼ miles N.E. by branch line. Gigs also for Carrara await passengers at +the station. Fare, 5 fr. + +Carrara (pop. 14,000), +situated on the Carrione, formed by the union of the Torano, +Fantiscritti and Colonnata streams, descending valleys with valuable +marble strata. _Hotels:_ The Nazionale, close to the theatre; The +Posta, adjoining the Post-office and close to the Accademia. Near the +Nazionale is the Italian Protestant chapel. At the station great blocks +of marble meet the eye. Passing them and crossing the bridge by Walton’s +marble works, walk up the Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza +Alberica, with a statue of Maria Beatrice and a short arcade. Near the +right side of this piazza are the two hotels. The road to the left leads +up the Carrione to the valley of the stream Torano, and the village of +the same name, ¾ of a mile from Carrara. The valley now becomes +narrower, the road worse, and the heavily laden bullock-carts more +numerous, carrying and dragging blocks of marble. To the left rises +Mount Crestola, and immediately opposite Poggio Silvestro, Polvaccio di +Betogli, and the Mossa del Zampone, from all of which the Romans +procured statuary marble, and which still continue to yield some of the +finest quality. All the quarries (cavé), of which there are 400, +employing 6000 men, are a good way up the face of the mountains. The +ascent to them is over steep slippery marble debris. The nearest and the +easiest “cavé” to visit are on Mt. Crestola. The other quarries are in +the valleys of the Colonnata and of its affluent the Fantiscritti. In +the Fantiscritti mines Roman relics have been found. Any boy will do to +show the way to the rivers Carrione and Torano, and when there it is +impossible to go wrong; but to visit any particular mines a guide is +necessary. Fee 4 fr. Besides the common road there is a railway for +the conveyance of marble blocks from the valley of the Torano to the +Marina or Port of Carrara. Many antique Roman statues are of marble from +Carrara, anciently called Luni. The marble of which the Greek statues +are made is from Paros, and from Mount Pentelicon, near Athens. Carrara +is a healthy and busy town, not troubled in the least with mosquitoes in +winter and spring. The great business of the town is the transporting +and dressing of marble; and the principal establishments the studios of +the artists, where statues, monuments, chimney-pieces, and ornaments are +sculptured and exposed for sale. Admission readily granted. + +The churches present nothing remarkable; the marble of the exterior +walls of the cathedral has become brown, while that of the interior is +223 + +nearly black. In the Accademia delle Belle Arti are some good copies of +the works of great artists and a few Roman antiquities found chiefly in +the mines of Fantiscritti. + + +GENOA +PISA +78¼ +26¾ +MASSA is about a mile from the +railway, by a good road, at the foot of Mt. Castagnola, which, with the +still loftier peaks in the rear, Mts. Tambura and Rotondo, protect it +from the northerly and easterly winds, so that it may be considered one +of the winter stations on the Mediterranean. The climate is mild, as the +vigorous orange trees in the gardens testify. In the neighbourhood are +many pleasant walks, both on the plain and up the valleys. The Hotel +Giappone in the Piazza Aranci, although a plain house, is clean, and is +kept by kindly people. The town is quiet; there are a few workers and +dealers in marble, but the principal occupation is agricultural. The +ducal palace in the square was once the residence of Elisa Bacciocchi, +Napoleon’s sister. Valuable marble quarries. Pop. 5000. + + +GENOA +PISA +84¼ +20¾ +PIETRASANTA, pop. +1000. _Inn:_ Europa. A poor town, with marble works near the +station outside of the walls, where baths are chiefly made. On the first +large house, right hand of square, a tablet informs us that in it +Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, on the 27th April 1518, “strinse nuovi +contratti per la facciata di S. Lorenzo in Firenze.” +S. Martino (13th cent.) has a fine wheel window, of the kind found +in nearly all the churches in this neighbourhood. At the entrance +opposite the Campanile (1380) is a font about the same period. In the +interior of the church are handsome marble columns, confessionals, +pulpit, and font. The domes and semidomes are painted in fresco. Next is +the Uffizio Municipale, with, in front, a statue to +Leopold II., 1848. Then follows St. Agostino (14th cent.), all +within a few yards of each other. In the neighbourhood are quicksilver +and argentiferous mines and the Quarceta marble quarries. + +Viareggio. + + +GENOA +PISA +90¾ +14¼ +VIAREGGIO, pop. +20,000. _Hotels:_ Russie; Pension Anglo-Americaine; Commercio. +A favourite sea-bathing station of the inhabitants of Pisa and +Florence. On the 22d of July 1882 the body of Shelley was found cast on +this beach. A few miles eastward, towards Lucca, is Lake +Massaciuccoli, and the Roman ruins called the Bagni di Nerone, about +6 m. W. from Lucca in a beautiful country. + +Pisa. + + +opp. 224 +plan of Pisa + + +Pisa: Piazza del Duomo. Cathedral. + + +GENOA +105 +PISA, pop. 26,300. +_Hotels:_ On right bank of the Arno, in the Lung’ Arno Regio, the +*Grand Hotel; *Bretagna; *Nettuno; Londra. Close to station, right hand, +the *Minerva et de la Ville; Washington; +224 + +left hand, Commerce. Behind the H. Bretagna is the Anglican church. +On the left side of the Arno, opposite the Victoria, is the Post-office. +Cab-stand at the station. _Fares._—From the station to the +cathedral, with from one to two passengers, 1 fr.; from three to +four, 1 fr. 15 sous. The hour, 2 fr. From the station go +straight up the Via Vittorio Emanuele to the Arno, where cross the +bridge and walk down the river to the fifth street right, the Via Santa +Maria, crossed by an arch at the commencement. The Via Santa Maria leads +directly to the Piazza del Duomo, containing, in a row, +the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, and the Baptistery, and immediately +behind, the Campo Santo, with frescoes considerably effaced, yet +valuable as specimens of the Tuscan school of the 14th and 15th +centuries. Fee for the Campo Santo 25 cents each. + +The _Cathedral_, commenced in 1063 by the Greek +architect Buschetto, was completed in 1092. The exterior is adorned with +a range of blind arches decorated with party-coloured marble. Four open +arcades, similarly constructed, rise over the western entrance, with the +beautiful bronze doors of John of Bologna, as well as over those at the +southern entrance by Bonano. Both doors are covered with a profusion of +figures in delicately wrought iron, representing saints, prophets, and +various other objects, enclosed in an elegant border of birds, foliage, +fruits, and flowers. The internal length of the church is 311½ ft., and +of the transepts 252 ft. The roof of the nave is 109 ft. high. +A double row of columns runs up the nave, and a single row along +the transepts and choir. Sixty of them are of oriental granite, and the +rest (14) of fine marble, and each of one piece. The arches resting on +them are semicircular, and are mostly in alternate layers of white and +black marble. The roof is covered with richly gilt panelling. The altars +are by Michael Angelo, and are arranged in pairs, each couple opposite +each other being alike, excepting the two at the opposite ends of the +transepts, which, however, are similar in design. One represents the +fall by woman, and the other the reconciliation by woman in the +ascension of the Virgin. Over the high altar, on the semidome, is a +colossal Mosaic by G. Gaddi, in 1325. Among the best of the +paintings are four of saints by A. del Sarto, near the bishops’ chairs. +Here also are paintings of Moses and Aaron, St. Luke and St. John, by +Beccafumi, and the Sacrifice of Abraham and the Entombment by Sodoma. +Upon a pier of the right transept is a St. Agnes by A. del Sarto, and on +the corresponding pier of the left transept a Madonna by Perino del +Vaga. In the right +225 + +transept notice the altar of St. Blaise, the chapel and tomb of +S. Ranieri, the great picture of the Virgin with Saints by del Vaga +and Sogliani. In the left (north) transept is the chapel of the Holy +Sacrament, with a beautiful silver ciborium. The windows are small, but +have some fine stained glass of the 14th and 15th cents. Galileo, while +a student at Pisa, discovered, by observing the oscillations of the lamp +suspended in the nave, that the vibrations of a pendulum are +synchronous, or recur at equal intervals whether great or small. + +Pisa: Leaning Tower. Baptistery. + +The _Campanile_ or leaning tower is a +cylindrical edifice built of square blocks of compact marble, and +consisting of a well-designed solid basement, 159 ft. in circumference, +with walls 13 ft. thick, above which rise six open arcaded galleries, +supported by 200 granite and marble columns. Over the sixth arcade rises +a round tower 27 ft. high. The entire height is 183 ft., the mean +diameter of the main portion 52 ft., and the deflection from the +perpendicular 11 ft. 2 inches, exclusive of the cornice, which projects +32 inches more. It was commenced in 1174, and finished 1350. The ascent +is very easy, by a stair 3 ft. wide, formed in the wall; but not fewer +than three are allowed to visit the top at the same time. Fee for the +party, 1 fr. The keeper lives in one of the small houses (No. 14) +nearly opposite. + +The Baptistery is a circular building, 361½ +feet in circumference, surmounted by a dome 180 feet high, and +constructed after the designs of Diotisalvi. It was commenced in 1153 +and finished towards the end of the 14th cent. Above the third storey +rises the dome, intersected by long lines of very prominent fretwork, +meeting in a cornice near the top, and terminating in a small dome +crowned with a statue of St. John the Baptist, the titular saint of all +such edifices. In the interior eight large Sardinian granite columns and +four marble piers support twelve arches, over which rises the tier of +piers and arches which support the cupola, within conical, but +externally hemispherical. In the centre stands an octagon marble font +for the baptism of adults, with four circular compartments at opposite +sides for the baptism of infants. The beautiful pulpit by Niccolo da +Pisa (1260) is ornamented with bas-reliefs, and supported on seven +columns. +Pisa: Cemetery. +Behind the Baptistery is the _Campo Santo_, founded about the year 1189 +by the Archbishop Ubaldo. It is a rectangle 424 feet long by 145 broad, +and surrounded by a broad gallery with a plain wall to the exterior, and +62 mullioned arches with quatrefoil tracery towards the interior. The +inner side of the wall is covered with paintings in fresco, begun about +the year 1300, and continued till 1670. Immediately to the left on +entering is the +226 + +monument of the oculist Andrea Vacca by Thorwaldsen. To the right +commence frescoes illustrating incidents in the life of St. Ranieri, the +patron saint of Pisa, by Andrea da Firenzi, 1377. Those beyond the +second door illustrate the temptations and miracles of hermits in the +Theban wilderness, by the Lorenzetti. Between Nos. 39 and 40, Hell. +Above 38, the Day of Judgment. Then, by Orcagna, the Power of +Death,—filling those living in pleasure with horror, but those in +sorrow with joy. Now follow (in the eastern side) the oldest of the +three chapels, and frescoes illustrating the Crucifixion, Resurrection, +and Ascension. On the north wall the most interesting frescoes are by +Puccio Orvieto, 14th cent., illustrative of events in the Old Testament. +On the west wall is hung part of the chain the Pisanos caused to be +drawn across the mouth of the harbour, which, however, Conrad Doria +broke through in 1290, burnt the fleet of Pisa, and carried off the +chain to Genoa. A few years ago, according to the inscription, the +Genoese returned it to Pisa. On the wall, under the chain, is the +monument to Giov. Niccoli Pisano; and, a little to the right, +a Madonna by that famous sculptor. The empty space within the +cloisters was once the common burying-ground of the city. It is filled, +to the depth of ten feet with earth brought from the Holy Land by the +galleys of Pisa. +Pisa: S. Maria della Spina. +Among the other churches may be mentioned Santa Maria della Spina, on +the bank of the Arno (a low square church)—an excellent +specimen of the Moorish-Gothic introduced into Italy in the 11th cent. +The churches of St. Matteo, St. Pierino, St. Michele in Borgo, St. +Andrea, and St. Francisco, contain a few curious and some good +paintings, with other antiquities. The church of St. Stephano is reputed +to contain the bones of St. Stephen. The palaces of the Cavaliers, +Lanfreducci, Seta, and Casa Mecherini, are worthy of notice. + +Near the Grand Hotel is the Sapienza or University, founded by the +Emperor Henry VII. The quays and bridges of Pisa are extensive, and +well-constructed. Four miles from Pisa are the baths of St. Julian, +considered beneficial for diseases of the liver and gout (see next +page). + +Leghorn. + + +opp. 226 +plan of Leghorn + +Between Pisa and Leghorn there are trains nearly every hour, distance +11¼ miles. Leghorn (pop. +90,000). _Hotels:_ In the Piazza del Cantiere, the Nord, fronting +the harbour; and close by, in the Via Vittorio Emanuele, the Bretagne; +New York; France; and at No. 59 of the same street, Il Giappone. +Anglican church in the Scala degli Hollandesi. Presbyterian church, No. +3 Via degli Elisi. Cabs per hour, 1½ fr. Boat from the hotel to the +steamer, 2 fr. Leghorn has many handsome and well-paved streets; +among the best of them is the +227 + +Via Vittorio Emanuele, which, commencing at the head of the harbour from +the Piazza dei Cantieri, traverses the principal square, the Piazza +d’Armi, with the cathedral, and extends to the Piazza Carlo Alberto. Its +continuation, on the other side of the square, the Via Larderel, extends +to a large building on the right hand crowned with a semi-dome. This is +the grand reservoir, supplied with water from the mountains Colognone by +an aqueduct 12 m long. Smollett died at Leghorn just after completing +“Humphrey Clinker,” and was buried in the English cemetery. +Leghorn: Steamers for Corsica. +Steam-boats every week for Bastia in Corsica, for Porto Torres in +Sardinia, and for Marseilles and Genoa. + + +Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja. + +Distance 62 miles east. See Map of Turin to Florence, page 199. + + +FLORENCE +62 +PISA. The direct line to +Florence is by Pontedera Empoli. Distance, 49 miles. Time, 2 hours and +10 minutes. The first station by the Lucca route is _San Giuliano_, with its +thermal springs, temp. 109° and 84° Fahr., rising from a calcareous rock +at the foot of the wooded Monti Pisani. The waters “are used internally +in chronic hepatic complaints, in gravel, and some renal affections; in +dysentery, and dyspepsia attended with pain and vomiting.” +—Madden’s _Health Resorts_. After Giuliano, we reach the +Rigoli station, whence the line extends along the left side of the +Serchio, enclosed within its bed by expensive embankments. + + +PISA +FLORENCE +15 +47 +LUCCA (pop. 22,000). Each +portmanteau taken from the station to the cab, 6 sous; bag, 2 sous. Cabs +await passengers, 1 fr.; portmanteau, 4 sous. + +_Sights._—A walk on the ramparts, 3 miles in +circumference, and a visit to the Duomo and to the Picture-Gallery. To +the south of Lucca, near the station, is an ancient aqueduct of 459 +arches. + +_Hotels:_ +Universo, between the Duomo and the Piazza Napoleone, a first +class-hotel; Croce di Malta, near the Piazza Napoleone; and the Corona, +near the Piazza also, but towards the church of St. Michele. Diligence +to the Baths of Lucca start from a court opposite the H. Corona. +Distance, 17 miles. Fare, 3 fr. Carriage, 15 fr. Money-changer in +the Piazza dell’Erba, off the P. Napoleone. Lucca is one of the +most ancient cities in Italy. Originally it belonged to +228 + +the Etrurians, but was taken from them by the Ligurians, and colonised +by the Romans about 170 years before the birth of our Lord. The most +remarkable event that distinguished it in ancient times was the +interview which took place here between Cæsar, Pompey, and Crassus, and +which attracted to the town half the senate and nobility of Rome. After +the fall of the Roman empire, Lucca was governed by princes of its own, +from one of whose race, Azon II., of the house of Este, the royal +families of Brunswick and England are descended. The town is in the form +of the letter O, surrounded by ramparts which afford a most agreeable +drive. At the railway end is the Piazza Napoleone, and near it all the +principal sights. +Lucca: Palazzo Ducale. +Picture-Gallery. Cathedral. +One entire side of the Piazza is occupied by the Palazzo Ducale, now the +Palazzo Provinciale, a vast and substantial edifice, built in 1578, +enclosing two large courts, and containing the prefecture, the +post-office, the picture-gallery, and the government offices. The +Picture-Gallery, +open every day (except Mondays), between 10 and 2, although small, +contains some precious works, in handsome halls. In the first room is a +Madonna della Misericordia, and in the second, the Creator with Mary +Magdalene and St. Catherine, both by Fra. Bartolommeo, in 1515 and 1509. +Also pictures by Reni, Zucchero, and Tiziano. In the Sala da Ballo, +painted in fresco by Luigi Adamolli Milanese in 1819, are a Madonna by +Perugini; a full length portrait of Napoleon’s sister Elisa; and +two ancient pictures on wood—a Nativity, and a Christ with Saints. +The remainder of the pictures are in the rooms which were occupied by +Maria Aloysia Borbonia (Marie Louise), whose monument by Bartolini +(1843) stands in the centre of the square. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone, +by the street at the end of the small avenue, we come to another open +space containing San Giovanni and the Duomo, and between the two +churches a house called the “Administrazione del opera della chiesa;” +where, among other things, are preserved _La Croce dei Pisani_, an +elaborately wrought gilt silver cross, by B. Baroni in 1350, and +the gold lamp, weighing 24 lbs., which formerly hung in front of the +Tempietto in the Duomo. They are shown at any time, but a fr. is +expected. The Cathedral or Duomo of St. Martino was commenced by Anselmo +Badagio, who, three years afterwards, as Pope Alexander II., +blessed the enterprise of the Norman invader of England. The façade, +with its three tiers of columned galleries, was built in 1204, the choir +in 1308, and the triforium in 1400. The sculptures of the portico are +subjects from the life of St. Martin. Over the door on the left is a +Descent from the Cross, by Nicolo di Pisa, 1233. + +229 + +Loftiness and simplicity, verging on plainness, characterise the +interior of this church, as well as those of all the others in Lucca, +with the exception of San Romano, which is profusely decorated. The +windows are small and filled with modern glass, excepting the three at +the eastern end, which are by P. Ugolino. All the pictures are +covered, excepting on Sundays and feast-days, but the custodian can +always be found in the sacristy, who shows the church for a franc. +Commencing at the first altar, right hand from main entrance, Nativity, +by Passignano; second, Adoration of the Magi, P. Zucchero; third, +Last Supper, Tintoretto; fourth, Crucifixion, Passignano; fifth, +Resurrection. In south transept, west side, is the monument to Pietro da +Noceto, one of the many admirable works by Matteo Civitali, to whose +genius the church owes its best sculpture, which he contributed during a +period of nearly thirty years from 1472. The angels on the altar in the +Chapel del Sagramento, opposite the monument, as well as the whole of +the chaste white marble altar in the Chapel of St. Regulus, adjoining +the sacramental chapel, are by him. On the left side of the high altar +is the altar to “Christo Liberatori,” by G. Bologna, and adjoining, +La Cappella del Santuario, where again we find the beautiful handiwork +of Civitali displayed on the altar and reliquaries on both sides. The +Madonna which forms the reredos of the altar is by Fra +Bartolommeo. This picture and the Madonna by Ghirlandaio (1400), in the +sacristy, are the two gems in the church. Just outside the Cappella del +Santuario is a recumbent figure of _Ilaria del Carretto_ by Jacopo +della Quercia (1444), unfortunately slightly mutilated, yet a beautiful +imitation of the repose of nature transferred to statuary. +Lucca: The Tempietto. +S. Giovanni. +S. Frediano. +In the north aisle is the Tempietto, a small octagonal chapel +standing apart, in which is preserved the cedar wood crucifix, 8th or +9th cent., said to have been carved by Nicodemus with the assistance of +an angel. The fresco on the left side of the main entrance into the +Duomo represents him cutting it out. This cross is exhibited three times +a year. The embroidery on the red curtain is an exact copy. The figure +of S. Sebastian on the Tempietto, as well as the elegant pulpit +opposite, are by Civitali. Opposite the cathedral is San Giovanni, +founded in the 12th cent. The baldness of its great walls is partly +relieved by the coloured panelled ceiling. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone +by the western corner of the Palazzo Provinziale, we soon reach the +Piazza and Church of San Michele, founded in the 8th cent., with a lofty +façade composed of tiers of variously shaped columns. Continuing in the +same direction towards the ramparts, we reach S. Frediano, of +the +230 + +7th cent., with a large Mosaic (12th cent.) over the main entrance. Just +within it, on each side, are frescoes by Ghirlandaio. To the right is an +ancient circular font about 9 feet in diameter, beautifully carved +in relief by Magister Robertus in 1151. The font at present used is +against the wall, and is by N. Civitali, the nephew of Matteo. The +second chapel on the right contains the tomb of St. Zeta, the patroness +of Lucca, in a sarcophagus on the altar. Third chapel beyond this (east +side) is a coronation of the Virgin by Francia, and on the opposite wall +of the same chapel a curious old carving in relief, representing the +assumption of the Virgin. On the opposite side of the church is a chapel +covered with ancient frescoes by Aspertino, one of which represents the +transporting to the church of the cross made by Nicodemus after it had +been found in the sea. By the side of it is St. Augustine being baptised +by St. Ambrosius at Milan; and above them, in the semicircle, an +entombment. Opposite is S. Frediano (who was an Irishman) staying +by prayer an encroachment of the sea, and an Adoration of the Magi. +Above is St. Ambrosius instructing his disciples. On the ceiling, God +surrounded by Angels, Saints, and Prophets. 3½ m. from Lucca is the +Villa di Marlia, in the midst of beautiful grounds. + + +The Baths of Lucca. + +The Baths of Lucca. + +17 miles from Lucca. See Map, page 199. + +The road ascends by the left bank of the river Serchio, through pleasing +scenery, passing the town of Muriano, situated on the right side of the +river. About 13 miles from Lucca is the curious bridge of the Maddalena, +consisting of four arches, the arch next the village of Borgo being +disproportionately large, and with a gradient from the bank to the +centre of 60°. It is only 4 feet wide, and, although built in 1322, +is the only bridge across the Serchio that withstood uninjured the great +flood of 1836, when the Serchio attained in three hours a height till +then unknown, and swept away with irresistible fury all the other +bridges, and broke up the mounds, dikes, and embankments. The two +villages (pop. 9500) which go under the name of the Baths of Lucca are +_Il Serraglio_ on the left bank, and _Corsena_ on the right +bank of the Lima, near its junction with the Serchio. On the hill behind +Corsena are the springs and bathing establishments. By the side of the +Lima is the Bagno Cardinali, close to the Casino; and about 100 feet +above the Cardinali is the Bagno Bernabó. A short way westward, +overlooking the valley of the Lima, is the Bagno Doccebasse, and +immediately below it the Bagno dello Spedale-Demidoff, for the exclusive +use of the poor. On the top of the hill, among some houses, is the Bagno +Caldo, and a little to the east, standing by itself, the Bagno San +Giovanni. _Hotels:_ the best are Pagnini’s Hotel and Pension, next +the Casino; and the America, nearer the bridge. On the opposite side of +the river, in Il Serraglio, +231 + +are the New York, and the Corona, plainer houses. A mile up the +river by the right bank, along a beautiful road, the Strada Elisa, is +another village, which is also included in the Baths of Lucca, the +Bagno alla Villa, the most beautifully situated of the three. +_Hotels:_ At the entrance of the village, the H. and +P. Queen Victoria. At the foot of the hill on which the bathing +establishment is situated, the H. and P. du Pavilion and the +Anglican chapel. Near them the H. and P. du Parc. The pension price +in all, both here and at Corsena, is from 7 to 11 frs. _Cabs:_ +First hour, 2 fr.; afterwards 1½ fr. Numerous furnished houses to +let. From 400 to 1000 fr. for six months. + +The bathing establishments are fitted up with every modern appliance. +The baths are rather small. Chemically the different springs are very +similar, but in temperature they vary; the coolest is the Doccebasse, +85° Fahr., and the hottest the Bagno Caldo, 133° Fahr. The principal +ingredients are sulphates and carbonates of lime, chlorides of soda and +magnesia, and carbonate of iron. The total amount of saline matter being +15 grs. to the pint. On a tablet at the entrance to the baths of La +Villa is inscribed a list of the diseases cured by the water; but their +principal action is on the digestive organs, and through them +sympathetically on the whole animal economy. Besides, a great deal +of the beneficial effect said to be produced by the water ought with +more reason to be ascribed to the delightful mountain air, and the +charming walks, drives, and rides, which entice visitors to spend the +greater part of the day in healthy rambles. The surrounding country is +beautiful—steep mountains covered with vines, chestnuts and oaks +rise on each side of the river; while well-made paths and roads wend +their way up through these vineyards and forests to multitudes of points +of various heights, commanding charming views. Season, May to +October. + +Pistoja. Cathedral. Baptistery. + + +PISA +FLORENCE +40½ +21½ +PISTOJA (pop. 13,600). +_Hotels:_ Globe et Londres; Inghilterra, both in the Piazza Cino. +Cabs from the station to the hotels, 1 fr.; portmanteau, 20 c. Next +the H. Inghilterra is the church of S. Giovanni, erected at +the end of the 12th cent., in alternate layers of black and white +marble. The sculptured pulpit, resting on lions, is supposed to be by +Fra Guglielmo of Pisa, 1270. The centre of interest is in the Piazza +Duomo, easily found from different parts of the town by means of the +lofty Campanile, the “Torre del Podesta,” which rises above all the +other buildings. By the side of it is the Duomo, a plain edifice, built +in 1240. Over the central door is a Madonna, with angels, by +A. della Robbia, and over the side-door frescoes by Balducci and +Giovanni Christiani, 1369. To the right, on entering, is the monument to +the jurist Cino (1336). In the upper tier he is represented addressing +an assembly, accompanied by six other doctors, while below he is +represented in his class-room lecturing to nine students. +232 + +The altar of the chapel, to the right of the high altar, is of solid +silver. It is generally covered, but by applying at the sacristy a man +will uncover it for 2 fr. It remained unfinished for more than 150 +years (1314-1466), and is said to be the finest piece of silversmith’s +work of that time in Italy, and that 416 lbs. of silver were employed in +its execution. Below the chancel is a crypt. Fronting the Duomo is the +_Baptistery_, begun 1339 (by C. di +Nese), an elegant octagonal structure, also in alternate layers of black +and white marble, each corner terminating in a pinnacle. The font is +quadrangular, of panelled marbles, and constructed in the 13th cent. +Outside, near the door, is a beautiful stone pulpit. Adjoining is the +Palazzo del Podestá (now the seat of the Tribunale Civile), constructed +in 1367, and restored in 1864. The vaults and soffits of the massive +arches are covered with the armorial bearings of the former mayors of +the town; while, to the left of the entrance, are still the stone-seats +and tables where they sat in judgment. +Pistoja: Pal. Municipale. +S. Andrea. +Opposite is the Palazzo Municipale (14th cent.), and a little way down +the street, the Ospedale del Ceppo (13th cent.), with a coloured +terra-cotta frieze. Near the two hotels is the church of +_S. Maria dell’ Umilta_, built in 1509 by Ventura Vitoni. In +the vestibule are large frescoes by Vasari. Near it is _S. Andrea_ +(12th cent.), with quaint reliefs over the entrance door, and in the +interior a precious marble pulpit, sculptured by Giovanni da Pisa, +1298-1301. The beadle, for a trifle, illuminates this piece of elaborate +sculpture, when it is seen to still greater advantage. Between the two +last churches is _S. Filippo da Neri_, with such a quantity of +frescoes, representing angels and saints in glory, that even the visitor +on entering feels himself among clouds also. In the Piazza Prato is +S. Francesco, with some good frescoes and altar pieces. In the +centre of the nave is the tomb of an Englishman, Thomas de Weston, +Doctor Legum, 1408. The word pistol is said to be derived from the name +of this town, as they have been manufactured here from a very early +date. Catiline lost his life in a battle fought near Pistoia, b.c. 62, and the precise spot where he is +said to have fallen is marked by a tower. + +Passengers from Pisa to Florence have generally to change carriages +at Pistoja. + +11¼ m. from Florence and 50¼ m. from Pisa is Prato, pop. 13,100. _Hotels:_ Giardinetto, +Contrucci, surrounded by ancient walls, and defended by a castle built +by the Ghibelines. The interior and exterior of the Cathedral are faced +with white and green marble in bands. The nave has columns of +serpentine. The elevated choir has good frescoes by Filippo Lippi, and +in a chapel are others by Agnolo Gaddi (1365). + +233 + + +Florence. + + +opp. 234 +plan of Florence + +61½ m. from Pisa by Lucca, or 49 m. by Empoli, is Florence, 357 m. +from Turin, 82 m. from Bologna, 134 m. from Piacenza, +196 m. from Rome, and 60¼ m. from Leghorn. + +Florence: Hotels and Pensions. + +FLORENCE, on the Arno, pop. 169,000. _Hotels and +Apartments:_ On the right or north side of the Arno, the Grand +Hôtel Royal de la Paix; de la Ville; Grand Hôtel d’Italie; Washington; +Grand Hôtel Nueva York; Gran Bretagna; del Arno; and just behind the +Paix, the Russie. All these hotels have a south exposure, and are +greatly run after in winter. Charge from 10 to 16 frs. per day, +according to the room. The following charge from 9 to 13 frs., and are +situated in the new streets a little way back from the Arno, and near +the Cascine or Park of Florence (north-west side of plan):—Hôtel +and Pension Corona d’Italia, Via Montebello; Hôtel and Pension Iles +Britanniques in No. 42; and Hôtel and Pension Venise in No. 33 Via della +Scala. In the Iles Britanniques are also furnished apartments at from +250 frs. to 400 frs. per month. Hôtel and Pension Couronne d’Angleterre, +Via Solferino; Hôtel and Pension Anglo-Americain, Via Garibaldi; and the +Universo in the Corso Vitt. Emmanuele. In the busy parts of the town, +and charging rather less than the above, the Hôtel Milan No. 12 Via +Cerretani; Hôtel and Pension Angleterre, Via Panzani; and at No. 21 of +same street, Hôtel Bonciani, with front also to the Piazza S. Maria +Novella. Near the bridge La Santa Trinitá, and in the Via Tornabuoni are +the Europe and Nord. In the Via Porta Rossa the Hôtel Porta Rossa; in +the Via della Spada the Ville de Paris; in the Via Condotta, La Luna; in +the Piazza S. Maria Novella (near the station) Hôtel Roma; Minerva; +Bonciani, with furnished apartments; and by the side of the station, La +Posta and Rebecchino. In the Piazza Maria Novella there are omnibuses +for Sesto Fiorentino and a large cab-stand. Conveniently situated for +visiting the sights, and not expensive (from 7 to 9 frs. per day), +are the H. d’Espagne above the Restaurant Etruria and the Etoile +d’Italie in the V. Calzaioli. Pension Suisse, Via Tornabuoni; Le +Phœnix, Via dei Martelli; Lion Blanc (in which also single rooms are +let), Via Vigna Nuova; Cavour, Via del Proconsolo; Commerce, Piazza di +S. Maria Novella; Hôtel and Pension Rudolfo, Via della Scala. +Furnished apartments all over the town. Just outside the Porta Romana, +in the Viale Petrarcha, furnished apartments cost from 250 to 400 frs. +the month. The most expensive as well as the most fashionable are those +situated on the right bank of the Arno; but in the streets a little way +back from the Arno apartments can be had for less. It is of very great +importance in winter to have +234 + +bedrooms with a south exposure. Those with a north exposure feel cold +even on a sunny day. People who take furnished rooms can dine at very +moderate rates in restaurants, such as the Toscana or the Etruria, both +in the Via Calzaioli. Best money-changers and restaurants in the Via +Calzaioli, between the Piazza della Signoria and del Duomo. Fioravanti +and Co., 5 Via Cerretani, change circular notes as well. + +_Protestant Churches._—American Church, 17 Via dei +Serragli; American Episcopal, 11 Piazza del Carmine; English Episcopal, +5 Via del Maglio; Scotch Church, 11 Lungarno Guicciardini. + +_Cab +Tariff._—The course, 1 fr.; night (between 7 p.m. to 6 a.m.), +1 fr. 30 c. Time, first half-hour, 1 f. 30 c.; every +successive half-hour, 70 c. Large trunks, 50 c.; portmanteau, 25 c. +Omnibuses run between the Piazza della Signoria and the old city gates. +Fare, 10 c.; Sundays, 15 c. + +Florence: Hints and Directions. + +Best maps of Italy and of the environs of Florence at the office of +the Topografico Militare, No. 8 Via Sapienza, near the Annunziata. Best +plans of the town published by Pineider, in the Piazza della Signoria, +and Bettini, No. 12 Via Tornabuoni. They also publish excellent little +guides to Florence, with complete catalogues of all the pictures and +statues in the various museums and churches. Pineider’s is published in +English likewise, and costs only a franc. They have a similar one for +Rome. For the investigation and study of art in Florence, see the works, +_Walks in Florence_ by Susan and Joanna Horner, 2 vols., Isbister +and Co., London, and volume 3 of _Hare’s Cities of Italy_. + +It is fatiguing, and unwise in those who are not students, to wander +into every part of Florence to gaze upon every picture and every figure +by a great master. The best are all in a few places, which, fortunately, +are near each other. For oil-paintings the combined galleries of the +Uffizi and Pitti are sufficient. In them the most important room is the +Tribuna (p. 238), containing the +concentrated excellence of both galleries in painting and antique +sculpture. Besides what are in the Tribuna, Raphael has eleven pictures +in the Pitti, of which the most famous is No. 266 in the Stanza dell’ +Educazione di Giove (see p. 244). +Michael Angelo’s finest sculpture is in the new sacristy of San Lorenzo +(see p. 265), but the +best collection of his works is in the _National Museum_ (see +p. 261). His David is in the +_Accademia delle Belle Arti_ (see p. 272). In the National Museum is the +best collection of sculpture by great _Italian Artists_, such as +Michael Angelo, G. Bologna, Luca and Andrea della Robbia, Ghiberti; +Brunelleschi, Donatello, Pisano, +235 + +Benvenuto Cellini, Rossi, Mino da Fiesole, and Verrochino, chiefly in +the first and sixth rooms of the first floor, and in the sixth room of +the second floor. Of the churches, the most important are the Duomo or +Cathedral, the Baptistery and Campanile, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo (but +particularly the Sagrestia Nuova and the Cappella dei Principi, attached +to St. Lorenzo), S. Maria Novella, and the Annunziata. They are +open from early in the morning till mid-day, and again from three till +six. The best specimens of fresco painting are in the churches and their +cloisters. Remarkable ancient frescoes in the Brancacci chapel of Del Carmine (page 252). +Best painting by Cimabue, a Madonna, executed in 1240, in the +Rucellai chapel of S. Maria +Novella (page 268). Best frescoes by D. Ghirlandaio on the chancel +or recess occupied by the high altar in S. Maria Novella (page 268). Best +frescoes of A. del Sarto in the narthex +of the Annunziata (page 269). Best frescoes of Giotto in the first +and second chapels of S. Croce +(page 260). Of the palaces the best are the Palazzo Vecchio (page 274), Palazzo Strozzi (page 275), and the Palazzo Corsini (page 275). The best view +of Florence is from the top of the dome; the ascent is very easy. The +pleasantest drive, with views, is to the Piazza Michel Angiolo, by the +Porta Romana and the Boulevards Machiavelli, Galileo, and Michel Angiolo +(page 249), studded with +handsome villas. + +Florence: Piazza della Signoria. Loggia dell’ Orcagna. + +At Florence the Arno is crossed by six bridges. One of these, the +_Ponte Vecchio_, differs from all the rest in having shops on each +side. By referring to the plan it will be observed that the road to the +Pitti Palace with the Boboli gardens, commences at the south end of this +bridge; while, at the northern end, commences the Via Por S. Maria, +leading to the Piazza della Signoria. From the +north-west corner of the Piazza della Signoria a fine broad street, the +Via Calzaioli, leads to the _Piazza del Duomo_; from the eastern +corner the street called the Borgo de’ Greci leads into the Piazza +Santa Croce. It is of great importance to understand the +relative position of these three squares. The chief feature of the +Piazza della Signoria is the _Palazzo Vecchio_, a fine specimen +of the Florentine castles of the Middle Ages (page 274). On either side +of the main entrance are the terminal statues of Baucis and Philemon, by +Bandinelli, and in front the colossal group of Hercules and Cacus, also +by him. Opposite is the spacious Gothic arcade called the Loggia dell’ +Orcagna, from the name of the architect, or dei Lanzi, from the +name of the watchman who formerly guarded the building. It was usual in +the early period of the Republic to provide a space near the +government-house where the people +236 + +could meet and take part in public affairs; and for this purpose this +open gallery was built opposite the Palazzo Vecchio about the year 1376. +Five steps, running along the front, lead up to the platform, covered by +a vaulted roof, supported on four arches, resting on three columns +terminating in beautiful capitals of the Corinthian order. Two shaggy +lions, in Cipollino marble, ornament the entrance. The lion on the left +is by F. Vacca, 17th cent.; the other, on the right, as well as the +six statues of Sabine priestesses, along the inner wall, beautiful in +attitude and drapery, are antiques, and were brought from the Villa +Medici in Rome in 1788. In front, under each arch, stand three separate +groups, by celebrated masters of the 16th cent. To the right is the Rape +of the Sabines, by G. Bologna, in 1583. Originally this group was +intended to represent Youth, Manhood, and Old Age. To the left the +statue in bronze of Perseus, with the head of the sorceress Medusa, by +B. Cellini. The posture is fine, and full of power and animation, +but the head and body of the Medusa are represented streaming with blood +with a revolting exaggeration. Also left, Judith and Holofernes in +bronze, by Donatello. Behind Perseus is the Rape of Polixena, +a marble group, by Pio Fedi, in 1864. In the centre is an antique +group supposed to represent Ajax dragging the body of +Patrocles—restored by S. Ricci. Next it is the marble group, +by G. Bologna, representing Hercules slaying the Centaur. In this +Piazza is also the Fountain of Neptune, by Ammanati (pupil of +Bandinelli), 1571. It is crowded with nymphs and satyrs, presided over +by a statue of Neptune (19½ feet high) in a car drawn by four horses. +Adjoining is a superb equestrian statue of Cosmo, by Bologna. The horse +is admirable. To the left of the statue is the Palazzo Uguccione +(considered to have been designed by Raphael), built in 1551. Adjoining +the Loggia dei Lanzi are the extensive buildings “degli Uffizi,” the +great storehouse of art treasures. On both sides of the Piazza, along +the basement floor, extends a wide and lofty colonnade, by Vasari +(1560-74), ornamented with 24 statues of the most eminent Italians. On +the same side as the Loggia is the Post-Office (Reale Poste). +Florence: National Library. +On the opposite side, at the second door from the end, is the entrance +to the Galleria degli Uffizi, and six doors farther down, the entrance +to the _Biblioteca Nazionale_, with about 250,000 vols. and 14,000 +MSS. Open from 9 to 4. Any book may be had for consultation in the +reading-room by writing the name on a slip of paper. The National +Library was formed in 1864 by the union of the Palatine Library +collected by the Medici with the Magliabecchian Library collected by +Antonio Magliabechi in 1700. The arch at the S. end of the colonnade +leads to the river Arno and the Ponte Vecchio. + + +opp. 237 +PLAN of the UFFIZI & PITTI +GALLERIES + +see caption + +237 + + +Galleria degli Uffizi. + +Open daily from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. each. Sundays, free. W.C.’s near +the portrait rooms; key with the keepers in the corner of the southern +gallery. In the top storey of the Uffizi buildings is the famous +collection of paintings, statues, and antiquities, united with a similar +collection in the Pitti Palace, by long galleries which cross the Arno +by the Ponte Vecchio, and extend along the street Via Guicciardini, by +the tops of the houses. The payment of a franc admits to both +collections, and the visitor may commence at either end; either from the +second door left hand, under the Uffizi colonnade, or from the door at +the N.E. corner of the Pitti Palace, next to the iron gate opening into +the Boboli gardens. But the easiest plan is to commence with the Uffizi, +and to descend towards the Pitti gallery by the stair at the top of the +western gallery. The only part of the way in which it is possible to go +wrong, is where (after having passed through the gallery of birds, +fishes, and plants, admirably drawn in 1695 by Bart. Legozzi, and a +small room with a few beautiful miniature paintings representing scenes +in the life of our Lord,) we come to a common stone staircase, which, to +enter the Pitti galleries, _ascend_, but to go out, descend. +Downstairs, outside, are the Piazza Pitti and the entrance to the Boboli +gardens. + +Florence: Uffizi +Gallery—Vestibules—Corridors. + +Entering the Uffizi by the second doorway under the colonnade, those +who wish to save themselves the fatigue of the 126 steps up to the +galleries may, for a franc, be carried up in a lift. In the first +vestibule are Roman statues and bas-reliefs representing festivals and +sacrifices, and busts of Lorenzo the Magnificent, Cosmo I., +Francis I., and of others of the Medici. Second vestibule, more +Roman statuary, and an inimitable Greek figure of a wild boar; the whole +expressing admirably the growling ire kindling in an irritated animal. +Two exquisite wolf-dogs, bold, spirited, and true to nature. The horse, +said to have belonged to the Niobes group, does not bear close +examination. + +We now enter the +eastern corridor, 178 yards long, with the ceiling painted in +arabesques by Poccetti. Ranged on both sides are valuable specimens of +ancient statuary, and of Roman busts of emperors and members of the +imperial family, Augusti et Augustæ. On the walls is hung a valuable and +interesting series of pictures, beginning with the stiff gilded +Byzantine style of the infancy of the art, as No. 1, a Madonna by +Andrea Rico di Candia (1102), and advancing gradually by No. 2, St. +Cecilia, by Cimabue, 130 years later. A marked improvement in +colour and grouping is seen in No. 6, Christ in Gethsemane, +238 + +by Giotto, pupil of Cimabue. No. 17 is a beautiful triptych by Fra. +Angelico; No. 24 a Madonna by Credi; No. 29 a Battlepiece by +P. Uccello; and No. 61 a Crucifixion by Lippi. + +Florence: Uffizi Gallery.—Tuscan School. + +From the two long sides of the gallery large doors open into halls +where the pictures are arranged in schools; the first of these being, as +is shown on the plan, the Scuola Toscana, contained in three rooms, and +consisting of 165 paintings, by M. Albertinelli, A. and +C. Allori, B. Angelico, M. A. Anselmi. B. Bandinelli, +Fra. Bartolommeo, G. Biliverti, S. Botticelli, A. Bronzino. F. +Cambi, J. Casentino, Cigoli, P. di Cosimo, L. di Credi, +F. Curradi. C. Dolci. Empoli. P. Francesca, M. A. +Franciabigio. A. L. Gentil, D. and R. Ghirlandaio, F. Giorgio, +G. S. Giovanni, B. Gozzoli, F. Granacci. Ignoto (unknown). Fra +F. Lippi. O. Marinari, Masaccio, T. Manzuoli, G. da Milano, +F. Morandini. G. Pagani, M. Pasti, S. Pieri, +A. Pollaiolo, Pontormo. G. Ramacciotti, Razzi, Il Rosso, +G. F. Rustici. V. Salimbeni, C. Salviati, A. del Sarto, +L. Signorelli. Fr. Ubertini. R. Vanni, O. Vannini, +G. Vasari, Dom. Veneziano, A. Verrocchio, Leonardo da Vinci, +Volterrano. F. Zucchero. The earliest painters are in the inner +room. Among the most remarkable of them are, B. Angelico, 1294. A. +Botticelli, 1286, a large picture, and 1289 and 1299. Fra. +F. Lippi, 1307. D. Ghirlandaio, 1295 and 1297. G. da Milano, 1293, +in ten compartments. A. Pollaiolo, 1301 and 1306; D. Veneziano, +1305. + +In the middle hall—Albertinelli, 1259. Fra. Bartolommeo, 1265; +Bronzini, 1271. Cigoli, 1276 his best work. F. Lippi, 1257 and +1268; Razzi, 1279, formerly a banner carried in processions. Leonardo da +Vinci, 1252, an unfinished picture. + +First hall—Albertinelli, 1259; Allori, 1165; Biliverti, 1261, +one of his best works; Bronzino, 1271; Cigoli, 1276; Credi, 1168; +Leonardo da Vinci, 1157 and 1159 remarkably fine. + +Florence: Uffizi Gallery.—Tribuna. + +Next to the rooms occupied by the Scuola Toscana is the Tribuna, a plain +8-sided hall, 30 ft. in diameter, designed by B. Buondelmonti, and +painted and decorated by Poccetti. In this room are preserved five of +the most famous antique statues in the world, and forty-two of the +choicest pictures in the collection by Alfani, F. Barocci, Fra. +Bartolommeo, A. and L. Caracci, Correggio, Domenichino, +A. Durer, Guercino, L. Kranach, F. Francia, Lanfranco, +B. Luini, Mantegna, Michael Angelo, L. d’Olanda, P. Perugino, +Raphael, G. Reni, Giulio Romano, Rubens, A. del Sarto, Schidone, +Spagnoletti, Tiziano, Van Dyck, P. Veronese, and D. Volterra. +Facing the door is the Venus de Medici, 4 ft. 11 inches high, +supposed to be by Cleomenes, son of Apollodorus, which, along +239 + +with the statue of the Apollino, were brought from the Villa Hadrian, in +Tivoli, during the reign of Cosmo III. The group of the Wrestlers, +exquisitely finished, wants animation. The Dancing Fawn, attributed to +Praxiteles, is one of the most exquisite works of art that remains of +the ancients. The head and arms were restored by Michael Angelo. In the +_Knife-Grinder_, the bony square form, the squalid countenance, and +the short neglected hair, express admirably the character of a slave, +still more plainly written on his coarse hard hands and wrinkled brow. +Among the paintings, six are by Raphael—all gems. 1120 Portrait of +a Lady, painted when he was 20; 1123 the Fornarina, every hue as perfect +as if transferred to the canvas by the sun—the expression is pert; +1125, the Madonna del Pozzo (Well), attributed also to Franciabigio, +beautifully finished; 1127 St. John in the Desert, colouring tawny, but +admirable light and shade; 1129 the Madonna del Cardellino +(nightingale), one of Raphael’s best works, painted when he was 22; 1131 +Portrait of Julius II., considered one of the finest portraits in +the world. In the Hall of Saturn, in the Pitti Gallery, and in the +National Gallery of London, are likewise portraits by Raphael of this +impetuous and warlike pope. 1139 Holy Family by Michael Angelo. This +picture, one of the few by him in oil, exhibits powerful drawing with +dexterous execution. 1112 the Madonna between St. Francis and St. John, +called also the Madonna delle Arpie, by Andrea del Sarto—rich but +subdued colouring, very pleasing to the eye. 1117 the famous recumbent +Venus, by Tiziano. 1118 the Rest in Egypt, by Correggio—wonderful +colouring. + +Florence: Uffizi Gallery.—The Italian School. + +Six rooms follow in succession from the south side of the Tribuna, +and contain respectively the Italian, Dutch, Flemish-German, and French +schools, and the collection of gems. The Italian, or more properly the +Lombardo-Venetian Schools contains 115 paintings by Albano, +D. Ambrogi. Baroccio, J. Bassano, G. Bonatti. Cagnacci, +Canaletto, A. Caracci, G. da Carpi, G. Carpioni, B. +Castiglione, M. Cerquozzi, C. Cignani, Correggio. Domenichino, B. +and D. Dossi. C. Ferri, D. Feti, L. Fontana. Garofalo, +L. Giordano, Giorgione, F. Granacci, J. Guercino. +J. Ligozzi, B. Luini. A. Magnasco, A. Mantegna, +L. Massari, L. Mazzolini, Fr. Minzocchi, Moretto da Brescia. Palma +(both), G. P. Pannini, Parmigianino, P. Piola, C. Procaccino, +S. Pulzone. G. Reni, P. Reschi, S. Rosa. E. Savonazzi, J. +Scarsellino, B. Schidone, F. Solimena. A. Tiarini, Tinelli, +Tintoretto, Tiziano, A. Turchi. G. Vanvitelli, P. Veronese, A. +Vicentino. B. Zelotti. S. Zugo. Of those, the most noteworthy are +Guido Reni, 998 Madonna; Parmigianino, +240 + +1006 Madonna, and 1010 Holy Family; Correggio, 1016 Child’s Head; +A. Mantegna, 1025 Virgin, with Child in her lap; Caravaggio, 1031 +Medusa. + +Florence: Uffizi Gallery.—The Dutch, Flemish, and French +Schools. + +_The Dutch +School_ contains 135 paintings, of which the best are by +Berkeyden, Borch, G. Dow, Galle, Hemskerch, Metsu, Mieris, +Netscher, O. Paulyn, Poelemburg; Rembrandt, 922 an Interior, with +Holy Family. R. Ruysch, Ruysdael, Schalken, Stingelandt, Van Aelst, +Van der Heyden, Van der Werf, Van Kessel. + +_The Flemish and German Schools_, in two rooms, consist of 157 +paintings, of which the best are by Cranach 822, Catherine Bore, wife of +Luther; 838 Luther; 845 John and Frederick, Electors of Saxony; 847 +Luther and Melancthon. C. Gellé or Claude Lorraine, 848 Landscape, +considered the gem of this department. G. Dow, 786 Schoolmaster. +A. Durer, 766 His father; 777 St. James; 851 Madonna. Holbein, 765 +Richard Southwell. 784 Zwinglius, and 799 Sir Thomas More. Quintin +Matsys, 779 St. Jerome. Rubens, 812 Venus and Adonis, but his best +pictures are in the Sala della Niobe. Susterman, 699 and 709 Portraits. +Teniers, 742 a Chemist, and 826 a Landscape. Van Dyck, 783 a +Madonna. + +_The French +School_ is represented by 47 paintings, of which the most +noteworthy are by Fabres, 679 the poet Alfieri, and 689 the Countess of +Albany, wife of, firstly, Prince Charles, the young Pretender, and +afterwards of Alfieri. Gagneraux, 690 A Lion-hunt. Mignard, 670 Madame +do Grignan and her Mother, and 688, Madame de Sévigné. N. Poussin, 680 +Theseus before his Mother. Rigaud, 684 Portrait of Bossuet. + +Florence: Uffizi Gallery.—Room of Gems. + +_The Room of +Gems_ has six upright glass cases, in which are exposed to view +statuettes, vases, cups, caskets, and a variety of ornaments made of +lapis lazuli, rock crystal, jasper, agate, aqua marina, turquoise, and +gold. In the second glass case is the most valuable article, +a casket of rock crystal, with twenty-four events from the life of +Christ engraved upon it by Valerio Belli, by order of Clement VII., who +presented it to Catherine of Medicis as a wedding present. The Room of +Gems opens into the south or connecting corridor, painted in fresco by +Ulivelli, Chiavistelli, and Tonelli. The most remarkable sculptures here +are 129 reliefs on a sarcophagus, representing the Fall of Phaeton into +the Eridanus (the river Po), with the Transformation of his Sisters into +Poplar Trees; and the races in the Circus Maximus of Rome; 137 Round +altar with reliefs representing the Sacrifice of Iphigenia; 145 Youth +extracting a Thorn, a replica of the more famous statue in the +Vatican; 145 Venus Anadyomene; 146 Nymph. (The key of the W.Cs. is kept +in the little office in the corner of this corridor). + +241 + + +Florence: Uffizi Gallery—The Venetian School. + +West Corridor and rooms. Rows of Roman statues stand on both +sides, and the walls are covered with Italian paintings of a much later +date than those in the eastern corridor. The first two rooms contain the +Venetian +School, represented by 82 paintings, and the next four contain +portraits of artists, nearly all by themselves. The room behind the +Venetian school contains a collection of 80,000 medals and coins. The 82 +pictures which illustrate the _Venetian School_ are by twenty-five +great masters, T. Bassano, G. Bellini, P. Bordone, C. Caliari, +D. Campagnole, Giorgione, L. Lotto, A. Maganza, Moretto, +Morone, G. Muziano, Padovanino, Palma (both), Pini, Porta, Savoldo, +A. Schiavone, Tinelli, Tintoretto, Tiziano, P. Veneziano, C. +Veronese, P. Veronese, A. Vicentino. At the head of all stands the +immortal Tiziano. His finest portraits are those of the Duchess (599) +and of the Duke of Urbino (605), Francesco della Rovere I.; of +“Flora,” called his Mistress (626); of Giovanni, father of +Cosimo I. (614); and of Sansovino (596). Also by Tiziano, 633, Holy +Family; 609 Battle between the Venetians and Austrians; 648 Catherine +Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus; and 618 Sketch of Virgin and Child for his +celebrated picture in Sta. Maria at Venice. P. Veronese, 589 +Martyrdom of St. Justina; 596 Esther before Ahasuerus, and 636 The +Crucifixion. Tintoretto, 617 The Marriage in Cana. +Florence: Uffizi Gallery— +Portraits of Artists. +In the next two rooms are Portraits of Artists of all nations, +from the 15th cent. to the present time. In a niche is the statue (338) +of Card. Leopoldo de’ Medici, and in the middle of the hall the +celebrated Medici Vase (339), with the sacrifice of Iphigenia in +relief, by a Greek sculptor. Cardinal Leopold, brother of the Grand Duke +Ferdinand, founded this collection in the 17th cent., and left it with +200 portraits; now it has about 500. Among the most remarkable +are—288 Raphael, by himself, in 1506, when 23; 225 Van Dyck; 228 +Rubens; 232 Holbein; 292 Leonardo da Vinci; 384 Tiziano; 378 Tintoretto; +374, 384, and 459 Annibale Caracci; 368 Antonio Caracci; 403 Guido Reni; +546 Sir Joshua Reynolds; 465 Thomas Murray. The door adjoining the hall +of portraits of painters opens into the long series of corridors and +stairs leading to the Pitti +Gallery. See page 243. Sala delle Iscrizione.—The walls +are covered with Greek and Roman inscriptions, arranged in 12 divisions +according to the subject. In this room are also some very interesting +ancient sculptures. Among others (315) the Torso of a Faun. _Cabinet +of the Hermaphrodite._—The most important piece of sculpture +here is 306 Hermaphrodite reclining on a lion’s skin, a valuable +Greek work; 318 Bust of Alexander the Great in suffering. _Cabinet of +Cameos._—A very +242 + +precious collection of ancient and modern cameos, statuettes, and +enamels, including those presented by Sir William Currie in 1863. + +Florence: Uffizi Gallery—The Hall of +Niobe. + +_Sala del Baroccio._—Against the walls are beautiful +tables in pietradura or Florentine mosaic, and one in the centre of the +room by Jacopo Antella, in 1615, from designs of Ligozzi. This hall +contains 172 pictures, chiefly by Italian artists. The great picture in +size and merit is 169, by Baroccio, The Madonna del Popolo or “The +Virgin interceding with her Son;” 163 is Susterman’s portrait of +Galileo; 191, by Sassoferrato, a Madonna; 207, one of Carlo Dolce’s +best works, “St. Galla Placida.” Sala della Niobe.—The hall +of Niobe was built in 1774, by the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo, for the +famous statues supposed to have been by Scopas or Praxiteles, and found +near the Porta S. Paolo at Rome in 1583, representing Niobe and her +children struck by thunderbolts from Apollo. They constitute one of the +finest and most powerful groups in the world, but stationed as they are +round the cold, flat, white wall of an oblong saloon, each on his +separate pedestal, the illusion of design and composition is not only +destroyed but individual criticism invited, a test all of them +cannot bear. It is believed that originally they formed a group on the +pediment of a temple. Niobe is rather large, nearly nine heads high, but +the child she protects is without a fault in form. This group is of one +piece of marble. All the others are in single figures. But the soul and +source of all that is interesting in these statues is the wonderful +figure of the wounded and dying youth, represented lying on his back, +his legs just crossing each other, the left hand reclining on his +breast, and his right arm slightly raised. As a statue, it commands the +highest admiration, and as a chaste and powerful picture of death, the +keenest sympathy. Behind the statue of Niobe is a very large picture by +Rubens—Henri IV. at the battle of Ivry—a performance of +wonderful spirit, but unfinished; and opposite it, 147 The entry of +Henri IV. into Paris; 144 Van Dyck, a portrait; 152 Honthorst, +Fortune-teller. + +Florence: Uffizi Gallery—The Hall of Bronzes. + +_Sala dei +Bronzi._—In two rooms; among these ancient bronzes the most +remarkable are the bronze heads of Sophocles and Homer, and the Torso +428 found near Leghorn—a torso is the trunk of a statue that has +lost the arms and legs; 426 The head of a horse; 424 The figure of a +youth, 5 feet in height, called the Idolino, found at Pesaro in +1530. The pedestal is attributed to Ghiberti. A tablet containing a +list of the Roman Decurions, dated a.d. 223. _Galleria Feroni._—In this room +are arranged the pictures bequeathed by the Marchese Leopoldo Feroni, of +which the best are, an Angel with a Lily, by C. +243 + +Dolce; A Butcher’s Shop, by Teniers the younger; and a Holy Family, by +B. Schidone. Outside, in the corridor, is 131, Portrait of Pasquali +Paoli, the Corsican patriot, by Richard Cosway; and 110 and 113, +Landscapes, by Agostina Tassi, the master of Claude Lorraine. + + +Florence. The Way from the Uffizi to the Pitti Galleries. + +The Connecting Galleries. + +Between the Uffizi and Pitti Galleries is a series of passages and +stairs finished in 1564, and opened on the occasion of the marriage of +Francesco de’ Medici with Joanna of Austria, of whom the statue of +“Abundance” in the Boboli gardens is supposed to be a likeness. The +walls of the stairs and corridors on the Uffizi side of the Arno are +covered with a rich and valuable collection of engravings, constituting +a complete history of the art from the 15th cent. to the present time. +The corridor on the Ponte Vecchio crossing the Arno is occupied +with a glorious collection of drawings by the great masters. The first +part of the corridor on the south side of the Arno contains numerous +portraits of the Medicean family, and then follows (on the long passage +behind the Via Guicciardini) a vast collection of tapestry, +executed in the 16th and 17th cent. in Paris and Florence. The best are +those representing the festivities at the marriages of Henry II. +with Catherine de’ Medici, and of Henry IV. with Maria de’ Medici, +executed in 1560 after designs by Orlay. From the tapestry gallery a +short stair ascends to a room hung with pictures painted in chiaroscuro, +or in one colour, by several of the old painters. From this another +short stair leads to the long narrow gallery on the wall of the Boboli +gardens. This gallery is hung with water-colour drawings, by Bartolommeo +Ligozzi, in 1695, representing with wonderful truthfulness, figures of +birds, fishes, and plants. To these illustrations of natural history +succeeds a series of miniature paintings of scenes in the life of our +Lord. Now we come to the common stone stair leading upwards to the Pitti +Gallery, and downwards to the door fronting the Piazza Pitti, and next +the gate leading into the Boboli gardens. At the top of the stair is a +large vestibule, with a window looking into the gardens. The names of +the Sale and Stanze (Halls and Rooms) are on the catalogues. Each room +is provided with two of these catalogues, one in Italian and another in +French. The halls are painted in fresco, and adorned with statuary and +rich tables of Florentine mosaic. + + +Florence: Pitti Gallery. Halls of Saturn and Jupiter. + +The Pitti Gallery. + +The vestibule opens into the _Sala dell’ Illiado_, painted by +Sabatelli in 1837, and having in the centre a statue of “Charity,” by +Bartolini. +244 + +Nos. 191 and 225 are Assumptions, by Andrea del Sarto, and 184 is his +Portrait, painted by himself. No. 185, a Concert, is a remarkable +picture, and one of the few existing by Giorgione. Tiziano is +represented by some of his best portraits:—No. 200, +Philip II. of Spain; 201, Cardinal Ippolito de’ Medici; 215, +Portrait; and 228, the Head of Jesus. 208, the Madonna del Trono, by +Fra. Bartolommeo. 219, P. Perugino, Adoration of the Child Jesus. 188, +S. Rosa, his own Portrait; and 218, Warrior. 190, Sustermans, +a Prince of Denmark. 224, Rod. Ghirlandaio, Portrait of a Lady. +230, Parmigianino, the Madonna col lungo Collo. 235, Rubens, Holy +Family. 286, Bassano, House of Martha. + +_Sala di +Saturno._—The frescoes on the ceiling are by Pietro da +Cortona. The gems of this room may be considered:—151, Portrait of +Pope Julius II.; and 165, the Madonna del Baldacchino, by Raphael. +The others by Raphael are the Portraits of (158) Card. Bibbiena; and of +(171) Inghirami and (174) the Vision of Ezekiel. 150, Charles I. of +England and Henrietta Maria, by Van Dyck. 164, a Deposition, by +Perugino. + +_Sala di +Giove._—Ceiling painted by P. da Cortona. In the centre of +the room statue of “Victory,” by Consani, and at the sides five Tables +in Florentine mosaic. The most remarkable picture in this, the Saloon of +Jupiter, is 113, the Three Parcæ, or Fates, by Michael Angelo. Then +follow Nos. 118, Andrea del Sarto and Wife; and 124, an Annunciation, by +A. del Sarto. No. 133 is a Battle-piece, by Salvator Rosa. In the +lower corner, right hand, is his own Portrait, with the initials +S. A. R. O. No. 140, an exquisitely finished Portrait of +G. Benci, by Leonardo da Vinci. 139, Holy Family, by Rubens. + +Florence: Pitti Gallery—Halls of Mars and Apollo. + +_Sala di +Marte._—Frescoes and decorations by Cortona. Raphael, +Rubens, Van Dyck, and A. del Sarto, have in this room some beautiful +paintings. The gem is (79) the Madonna della Sedia (chair), by Raphael. +94 is a Holy Family, also by him—called the “Impannata” or cloth +window. No. 81, Holy Family; and 87 and 88, Story of Joseph, by A. del +Sarto. 82, Card. Bentivoglio, by Van Dyck. No. 86, Peace and War, by +Rubens. 96, Judith, by C. Allori. + +_Sala di Prometeo._—The Mosaic Table in this room, by +Giorgi, occupied him fourteen years. 338, Madonna, by Fra. Filippo +Lippi. + +_Sala di +Apollo._—Raphael has three portraits in this room:—59 +and 61, M. and A. Doni; and 63, Leo X. Tiziano has some fine +works:—No. 67, a Magdalene, shows his power in colour; and +54, Aretino, the poet, is one of his best portraits. 40, Madonna, by +Murillo. 58, by +245 + +A. del Sarto, Descent from the Cross, one of his best works. 64, the +same subject admirably treated by Fra. Bartolommeo. + +_Sala di Venere_ (Venus).—Painted by Cortona. Nos. 4 and +15 are two most charming Sea-pieces, by Salvator Rosa. No. 18, La Bella +Donna, by Tiziano. No. 27, Jesus appearing to Peter, by L. Cardi +(Il Cigoli). + +_Galleria Poccetti._—Painted by Poccetti. Bust of Napoleon +by Canova. Small corridor, or Corridor of the Columns, with two columns +in oriental alabaster, and the walls hung with Florentine mosaics, and +admirably executed miniatures in water-colours and oil, collected by +Card. Leopold. No. 4, In glass cases are displayed valuable articles in +ivory, amber, rock-crystal, and precious stones. + +_Stanza della Giustizia._—Painted by Fedi. The beautiful +ebony cabinet was used by Card. Leopold. The most interesting picture in +this room is 408, Portrait of Oliver Cromwell, painted from life by Sir +Peter Lely, by request of Ferdinand II. of Tuscany. + +Florence: Pitti Gallery—Rooms of Flora, Ullisse, Giove. + +_Stanza di +Flora._—In the centre is the famous Venus by Canova, called +also the Venus Italica from its having been intended to replace the +Venus de’ Medici, when that still more famous statue was carried off to +Paris, where it remained fifteen years. No. 415, Ferdinand II., by +Sustermans. 416 and 421, Landscapes, by Poussin. 423, Adoration of the +Shepherds, by Tiziano. + +_Stanza dei Putti._—Painted by Morini. No. 470 is a large +picture by Sal. Rosa, called the Philosopher’s Forest—Diogenes +throwing away his drinking-cup. No. 465, Landscape, by Ruysdael. + +_Stanza d’ +Ullisse._—Painted by Martellini. No. 324 is a fine portrait +by Rubens of the favourite of James I., George Villiers, Duke of +Buckingham, assassinated by Felton in 1628. No. 289, Madonna, by +Ligozzi. 297, Paul III., by Bordone. 306 and 312, Landscapes, by +Sal. Rosa. + +_Stanza del Bagno._—This, the bath-room, is tastefully +fitted up with a mosaic pavement. Four handsome columns in verd antique, +and four marble statues, by Insom and Bongiovanni. + +_Stanza dell’ +educazione di Giove._—Painted by Catani. 266, the Madonna +del Granduca, by Raphael, is one of the finest pictures in the Pitti +Gallery. 245 is attributed to Raphael. 243, Philip IV. of Spain by +Velasquez. 248, a “Descent” by Tintoretto. 256, Holy Family by Fra. +Bartolommeo. + +_Stanza della Stufa._—The frescoes on the walls, +representing the Four Ages of Man, are by Cortona, from sketches by the +nephew of Michael +246 + +Angelo. The frescoes on the ceiling, representing the Virtues, are by +Rosselli, in 1622. Among the treasures of this room are four antique +statues in niches, a column of green porphyry, bearing a porcelain +vase with a likeness of Napoleon I., and two justly celebrated +bronze statues of Cain and Abel, modelled by Dupré of Siena, and cast by +Papi in 1849. + + +Florence: Boboli Gardens. + +The Boboli Gardens. + +Now either return to the Uffizi by the very long galleries or descend +to the foot of the stairs, and when outside, turn to the left and pass +through the gate leading into the Boboli Gardens, open on Thursdays and +feast-days. Permission to enter on other days is easily obtained at the +office of the Minestero della Casa, under the south corner of the +corridor. The gardens are laid out in a stiff style. Clumps of oleanders +and oleasters among ilexes, laurels, pines, yews, and cypresses, +encircled by tall myrtle hedges, make the grounds in many parts more +like a labyrinth than a garden. Near the entrance is an artificial +grotto, with, in front, a group by V. Rossi, and a Venus by +G. Bologna; and in the four corners unfinished statues by Michael +Angelo, intended for the monument of Julius II. at Rome, and +presented to Cosmo I. by L. Buonarotti. Opposite the palace is +the Amphitheatre; within the centre a granite obelisk and a large +granite basin from Egypt, but brought to Florence from Rome. Beyond the +palace, near the Porta Romana, is the Piazzale del Lago, with groups in +marble by G. Bologna. In the flower-garden “del Cavaliere,” are two +more fountains, with monkeys in bronze, by the same artist, and a small +villa, from the top of which there is a fine view (entrance 25c.) On the +highest part of the gardens, facing the palace, is a colossal statue of +Dovizia (Abundance), commenced by Bologna, and finished by his pupil +Dacca. + +Florence: Pitti Palace. + +THE PITTI +PALACE was begun by Luca Pitti, a Florentine merchant, in +1436, from designs by Brunelleschi. In 1549 the still unfinished +building was purchased by the Medici, who advanced it considerably, but +not till quite recently was this vast pile finished. The façade is 659 +feet in length, 148 feet in height, and the total surface occupied by +the building 35,231 yards. Bart. Ammanati added the wings, and enclosed +the beautiful court opposite the middle entrance with Doric, Ionic, and +Corinthian columns, and placed at the extremity the pretty grotto +covered in with Roman mosaic, supported on 16 columns, and ornamented +with statues in marble and porphyry, and small trees and satyrs in +bronze. To the right of the court is the Royal +247 + +Chapel. Above the altar is an ivory crucifix by G. Bologna. At the +end of the portico, to the left, a door opens into the court, in +which is the entrance into the room containing the splendid +_Collection of Plate_ by Benvenuto Cellini and Maso Finiguerra, and +ivories by Bologna and Donatello. Zumbo, the famous artist in wax, has +likewise some of his works here. The state apartments are sumptuously +furnished. + +Florence: Tribuna Galileo—Museum of Natural History. + +Nearly opposite the Pitti palace, at No. 16 Via Guicciardini, is the +house in which Machiavelli lived and died in 1527. A little farther +up the Via Romana, in the house No. 19, is the + +Museo di Storia Naturale, + +in the second floor, and the Museo Galileo in the first floor. Both +open on Thursdays and Saturdays, from 10 to nearly 3. In the vestibule +is an old terrestrial globe, black with age, 3 feet in diameter, +probably by Ignazio Dante, a famous astronomer, brought to Florence +by Cosmo I. He died in 1586. Upstairs is the Museo, or +Tribuna di Galileo.* Explanatory catalogues in Italian and French are on the +table. The statue of him is by A. Costoli. In the niche to the +right are his telescopes, of which the lower one was constructed by +himself, and by which he discovered the satellites of Jupiter. In the +niche on the left are his compasses and magnet. The other philosophical +instruments belonged to the Accademia del Cimento, instituted in 1657 +and dissolved in 1667. It held its meetings in the palace of Prince +Leopold de’ Medici. All around are beautiful frescoes, illustrating +scenes in the life of Galileo. Among the relics is the forefinger of +Galileo, taken from the body when it was removed to its present +resting-place in the church of Santa Croce. In the second storey is the +excellent and comprehensive Museum of Natural History. The collections +are admirably arranged, and in good condition. The botanical department +contains the herbariums of Andrea Cesalpino, which he is supposed to +have collected about the year 1563; of P. A. Micheli, collected +about the year 1725; of Central Italy, by Parlatore, commenced in 1842; +of Labillardière, who accompanied La Perouse in his expedition to New +Holland; of R. Desfontaines, the master of De Candolle; and of the +Englishman, P. B. Webb, who bequeathed his herbarium to this +248 + +museum. +Florence: Anatomical +Preparations in Wax. +But the most wonderful objects in the museum are the anatomical +preparations in wax, chiefly by Clemente Sasini and his assistants, +under the direction of Tommaso Bonicoli, 1775 to 1791. Like the great +works of the great painters, they are executed with the most minute care +and truthfulness to nature, whether it be the magnified anatomy of the +cuttle-fish or of the silkworm, or the life-like representation of the +most delicate organs of the human body. They are contained in twelve +rooms, entered from the shell department, by the door lettered +“Ittiologia,” opening into the Zootomia. + +* +The word tribune is used in Florence to designate any large niche. But +the real meaning of the word “Tribuna” is the semicircular cavity at the +extremity of a Roman basilica, where the judges sat. In the early ages +of the church some of these buildings were given to the Christians for +public worship, who still retained their secular name, and worshipped in +them without consecration. + + +Florence: House of Galileo. + +The House of Galileo, + +at the head of the Via Romana, is the Porta Romana, the city gate by +which, in 1536, Charles V. and Pope Leo X. entered Florence. +An omnibus runs between it and the Piazza del Duomo. At the outer side +there is a cab stand, which is likewise the starting-place of the +omnibus for the Certosa (see page +250). Immediately outside the Porta commence three broad roads—the +lowest is called the Via Senese and leads to the Certosa; the centre +one, bordered with tall cypresses, is the Via del Poggio Imperiale; +while to the left is the Viale Machiaveli, the first of a series of +magnificent boulevards (viali) leading to that noble terrace the Piazza +Michelangiolo. Let us first ascend the Via del Poggio to the Royal +Villa, formerly the property of the Medicis, now the Instituto della +Annunziata, a boarding-school for girls. From it ascend by the Via +del Pian di Giullari, and when at the top of it take the road to the +right leading directly to the village of Arcetri, containing the house +in which Galileo spent the last years of his life, and in which when +blind, and 74 years of age, he was visited by Milton. Galileo was born +in 1564, at Pisa, and died in 1642. The house, a plain building, is +indicated by a bust and tablet on the wall towards the street. The steep +little road to the left leads up to the farmhouse in which is the Tower +(Torre del +Gallo) from which Galileo made his astronomical observations. It +contains several relics of the great astronomer—a telescope, +table, and chairs, a bust of him taken after death (il piu antico +che si conosca), a pen-and-ink sketch of him on marble by +Salvatelli, a smaller portrait of him by P. Leoni, 1624. From +the farmhouse +249 + +a steep narrow road leads down to the Boulevards between the Piazza +Michelangiolo and the Porta Romana. + + +Florence: Piazzale Michelangiolo. San Miniato. + +The Piazzale Michelangiolo. + +There is no place about Florence which affords such an agreeable walk +or drive as to the Piazzale Michelangiolo and the church of +S. Miniato. They are situated on a hill on the left bank of the +Arno, two bridges higher up the river than the Uffizi, and are +distinctly seen from the Lung’ Arno. The nearest way to approach them on +foot is, having crossed the Ponte alle Grazie (the first bridge above +the Ponte Vecchio), walk up the left bank of the Arno, passing the +Piazza containing the fine marble monument to Prince Nicholas Demidoff, +by L. Bartolini, in 1835, and continue the walk up the river till +arrival at a square tower in the Piazza della Molina, whence commence +the ascent by the stairs and road the Viale dei Colli. Or approach it +from the Porta Romana by the fine avenues the Viali Machiavelli and +Galileo, bordered by trees and handsome villas, disclosing as they wind +round the steep sides of the hills a succession of ever-varying views. +The Piazzale Michelangiolo is a splendid terrace, 165 feet above the +Arno, commanding a grand prospect, and adorned with five statues in +bronze, copies by C. Papi of Michael Angelo’s famous works. To the +right is the Viale Michelangiolo, the carriage road leading down to the +Barriera San Niccolo, opposite the suspension-bridge (Ponte Sospenso). +Above the Piazzale, by the convent church of San Salvatore del Monte +(built in 1504 by Cronaca), is the Basilica of San Miniato, one of the +earliest (1013) as well as one of the most perfect structures in the +Byzantine style. Internally it is 165 feet long by 70 wide, and is +divided longitudinally into aisles by pillars of classical design. The +façade is faulty. The tower was erected in 1519. The floor of the nave +is considerably under the level of the chancel, which terminates in a +semi-dome, covered with mosaics executed in 1247, and of the same kind +as those of St. Mark’s at Venice. Behind the altar are five small +windows of thin slabs of Pavonazzo marble. Between the stairs leading up +to the chancel is the chapel constructed in 1448 by Michelozzi. Here lie +the remains of Gualberto, the founder of the church and of the order of +Vallombrosa. In the centre of the north aisle is the chapel of Cardinal +Ximenes (died 1459). The monument is by B. Rossellino, and the +beautiful terra-cottas on the ceiling by Luca della Robbia. On the south +side is the Sacristy (built in 1387), exquisitely painted in fresco by +Spinello Aretino, representing scenes in the life of St. Benedict. In +250 + +the centre of the nave is a curious piece of Byzantine pavement, +executed in 1207. Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on 38 marble +columns, several being prolongations of those above. Under the altar is +the tomb of San Miniato. From the terraces of the adjoining cemetery +there are splendid views of Florence and of the valley of the Arno. + +Florence: The Certosa. + +The Certosa. + +From outside the Porta Romano a small diligence starts every hour, at +the hour, passing by the Carthusian Monastery of the Certosa, 3¼ miles +distant; fare, ½ fr. Passengers alight at the great wall enclosing the +grounds at the commencement of the small by-road to the right, leading +up to the top of the circular hill on which the convent is picturesquely +situated. It was erected by Niccolo Acciaiola in the 14th cent., and is +now the property of the State, who retain in it some twenty-three friars +of the order to take charge of the church, chapels, and buildings. At +the entrance-gate is the pharmacy, where the liqueurs made in the +convent can be bought and tasted. Their Chartreuse cordial is not equal +to that made in France, but the Alkermis is of good quality. Fee to see +the convent, ½ fr. At the top of the stair leading up to the church is a +fresco by Empoli. The church, paved with marble in the cinque-cento +style, has some good stalls (1590), and over the marble altar a fresco +by Poccetti. Right hand, chapel with frescoes by Masari on the walls, +and on roof by Poccetti and his school. From S. aisle pass to chapel of +S. Maria, in the shape of a Greek cross. Here is a curious Trinity +of the Giotti school. Descend to the Cappella di Tobia, with the +mausoleum of the founder, by Orcagna (1360), and three monumental slabs +over the tombs of his father, sister, and son. Next, a narrow +cloister with eight small windows, with vignette paintings by Udine, +1560; Cappella del Capitolo, having for the reredos a Crucifixion by +Albertinelli, and in the centre of floor the mausoleum of Buonafede by +Stogallo, 1545; then the Camere di Pio Sesto, his sitting-room, and +bedroom. He was a prisoner here nine months. Beautiful views are +obtained from various parts. In passing through the villages women may +be seen plaiting straw—a standard occupation in Tuscany. + +Florence: Bello Sguardo. Monte Oliveto. + +Views.—From the Porta Romana +commences also the road to the Bello Sguardo and to Monte Oliveto (about +a mile distant), both commanding splendid views of the city, of the +valley of the Arno, and of the surrounding mountains. Immediately +outside the Porta turn to the right, and walk by the side of the city +wall by the Via Petrarcha till the second road on the left, the Via de +Casone, by which continue +251 + +to ascend till a road is reached on the left lettered, Via di Bello +Sguardo. By it ascend to the next on the left, the Via dell’ Ombrellino, +where at the house No. 1 ring the bell. The view is from the +pavilion of this house; fee, ½ fr. To go from this to Monte +Oliveto descend to the Via di Bello Sguardo, and from a house +with a high railing turn to the right by the “Via di Monte Oliveto Per +S. Vito,” and descend to a large gateway and house on the left +hand. At this house ask for the key of the Monte Oliveto, then walk +forward past the old convent, now a military hospital, to the top of the +knoll crowned with cypresses, and behold the view. Now descend by the +Via di Monte Oliveto, which, at the foot of the hill, enters the Via +Pisana opposite house No. 82, near the Porta S. Frediano, whence an +omnibus runs to the Piazza della Signoria. If preferred, the tour may be +commenced at this end, taking the omnibus from the Piazza to the +Porta. + +Florence: Santo Spirito. + +Santo Spirito and +Santa Maria del Carmine.—By referring to the plan it +will be observed that a very short way north from the Pitti Palace are +two churches, the Santa Maria del Carmine, containing the famous +frescoes of Masaccio (b. 1402, d. 1429), and of Filippino +Lippi (b. 1457, d. 1504), and the church of Santo Spirito, in +which Luther preached as an Augustinian friar when on his way to Rome. +The present church of the S. Spirito was commenced in 1446 by +F. Brunelleschi, destroyed by fire in 1470, and rebuilt in 1488 +according to Brunelleschi’s design. The belfry, which is of admirable +proportions, was erected by B. d’Agnolo. The church is 315 ft. long, and +191 at the transept, and is placed from south to north. The arches of +the aisles rest on 47 pilasters and 35 columns, each of one piece of +pietra-serena, brought from the quarries of Fiesole. Around the church +are 38 semicircular chapels, ornamented with pictures by Alessandro +Allori, Fra. Bartolommeo, Sandro Botticelli, Franciabigio, Raff. del +Garbio, Rodolfo Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Filippino Lippi, Ant. Pollaiolo, +and Cosimo Rosselli. Among the best of these are, in the choir, 12th +chapel from entrance to church, a Madonna by Lippi. In left +transept, 19th and 20th chapels, Martyrs, and The Adulteress, by Allori. +22d chapel, an Annunciation, by Botticelli. Among the sculptures the +most remarkable work is in the 2d chapel, right hand on entering, +a Pieta, by Baccio Bigio, a copy of the group by Michael +Angelo in St. Peter’s, Rome. The proportions of the dead body of our +Lord are admirable, and the ribs, loins, and pectoral muscles skilfully +marked. Before the choir is a screen erected in 1599, composed of bronze +and rich marbles, and although rather out of place, full of beautiful +details. +252 + +The high altar, under a ciborium or canopy supported on four columns of +rare porphyry, is decorated with statuettes and candelabra by Giovanni +Caccini. A door in the west aisle opens into the sacristy, the +joint work of San Gallo and Pollaiolo, by whom it was finished in 1490. +In the sacristy a door to the right opens into the cloisters, by +A. Parigi, adorned with frescoes by Perugino, Ulivelli, and +Cascetti. + +Florence: Santa Maria del Carmine. Brancacci Chapel. + +The church Del Carmine was erected in 1475, +destroyed by fire in 1771, and rebuilt in 1788 by Ruggieri and +Mannaconi. Among the parts which escaped destruction in 1771 was the +Brancacci +chapel, at the end of the western or right transept, covered +with valuable frescoes, in 12 compartments, by Masaccio, Lippi, and +Masolino da Panicale. The four principal subjects are (left wall) +“Christ directing St. Peter to take a coin from a fish’s mouth to pay +the tribute,” by Masaccio, whose portrait is given in the last apostle +to the right; “the Restoration to Life of the Emperor’s Nephew,” painted +by Filippino Lippi and Masaccio. On the right wall are— “St. Peter +raising Tabitha,” by Masolino; “the Crucifixion of St. Peter;” and “St. +Paul before the Proconsul,” by Filippino Lippi. These frescoes are said +to have been studied by Perugino, Raffaelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and +Michael Angelo. Of the eight small subjects, “The Expulsion of Adam and +Eve,” and “St. Peter and St. John Healing the Sick by means of their +Shadows,” on the left wall; “St. Peter Baptising,” and “St. Peter +Distributing Alms,” on the right wall, are all by Masaccio. “The Visit +of St. Paul to St. Peter in Prison,” on the left wall, and “the +Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison,” on the right wall, are by Lippi. +“Adam and Eve under the Tree of Knowledge,” and “St. Peter Healing the +Cripple,” are ascribed by some to Masolino, by others to Masaccio. In +the opposite arm of the transept is the Corsini chapel, with large +marble alti-relievi by Foggini, and frescoes on the ceiling by Luca +Giordano. In a chapel in the sacristy are some frescoes discovered in +1858, attributed to Spinello Aretino, but also, and with more +probability, to Agnolo Gaddi, representing scenes in the life of St. +Cecilia. The old church contained frescoes by Giotto, some fragments of +which, removed the year before the fire, are now in the Royal +Institution, Liverpool. + + +The Duomo, 252. +The Campanile, 255. +The Baptistery, 256. +Il Bigallo, 257. +San Michele, 257. +Santa Croce, 258. +The National Museum, 261. +La Badia, 263. +The House of Michael +Angelo, 263. + +Florence: Cathedral—Dome—Ascent. + +The Duomo, or Cathedral Church of Santa Maria +del Fiore was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio, and the foundation-stone +laid on +253 + +the 8th of September 1298, under the auspices of the first papal legate +ever sent to Florence, Cardinal Pietro Valeriani. Arnolfo died in 1310. +In 1330 Giotto was appointed master-builder, who, assisted by Andrea +Pisano, continued the work according to Arnolfo’s design. Giotto died in +1337. To Giotto succeeded Francisco Talenti, Taddeo Gaddi, and Andrea +Orcagna. In 1421 Filippo Brunelleschi commenced the dome, and +completed it in all its essential parts before his death, which took +place in 1446. In 1469 Andrea Verrochio added to the dome the copper +ball and cross. The dome, built without timber centrings, consists of +two vast vaults, an interior and an exterior, both supported by strong +ribs at the right angles, and surrounded at the base by a strong iron +chain. From the floor to the top of the dome the height is 300 feet, the +lantern 52 more, and to the top of the cross other 35. The total height +therefore is, from the floor to the top of the cross, 387 feet. The +circumference of the dome is 466 feet. Three galleries are carried round +the drum. The first is reached by 153 steps; the next by 62 steps more; +and the third, which runs round the top of the drum and the base of the +dome, by other 65 steps. The appearance of the church from the first and +third galleries is most striking. Outside the third gallery commences +the cornice gallery of the dome. From this part 180 steps (between the +two vaults) lead to the top of the cupola. From the top of the cupola to +the ball the ascent is made up through the lantern by +32 vertical bronze steps, and 13 steps in marble, and 23 in wood. The +number of steps, therefore, from the floor into the ball is 528; the +only difficult part being the vertical bronze bear-like ladder in the +lantern, which is not worth ascending, as little can be seen (and that +little with difficulty) from an aperture in the ball. But the view from +the gallery at the top of the dome is truly magnificent. Florence and +neighbourhood lie stretched out below like on a map, and as the +clearness of the Italian air admits of the smallest objects being seen +distinctly, the traveller should visit this gallery as early as +possible, to gain, by the assistance of the plan (page 234), a practical acquaintance with the +topography of the city. To the N.E., by the Piazza Cavour and the stream +Mugnone, is Fiesole, 3 miles distant, on an eminence (see page 276). To the west of the town, on the Arno, is the +Cascine or Park, and the small hill with the clump of trees, on the +other side of the river, is the Monte Oliveto (page 250). To the S.E., on +the other side of the Arno, are the Piazzale Michelangiolo and San Miniato (page 249), while a good piece +beyond is the Torre del Gallo +(page 248). West from the Piazzale are the Boboli Gardens and +254 + +the Pitti Palace. Fee to ascend tower, 1 fr. Attendant to be found +in south sacristy. + +The length of the cathedral is 556 feet, and of the transept 342 +feet. The breadth, including the aisles, is 132½ feet, and the +superficial area 84,802 feet, or about 6000 feet less than the area +occupied by Cologne cathedral. In 1860 Victor Emmanuel laid the +foundation-stone of the gorgeous new façade, coated, like the whole +exterior of the church, with polished white marble, and dark magnesian +serpentine disposed in chastely ornamented panelling, an arrangement +often met with in the churches of Italy. + +In the interior, four arches of enormous span run down each side of +the nave to the choir, which expands with unrivalled majesty under the +magnificent dome. Walk in and behold its beautiful proportions. Do not +struggle to perceive by means of the dim light the few relatively +unimportant statues and pictures, or the intricate designs on the marble +pavement by Agnolo, San Gallo, and Michael Angelo, but go at once and +stand below the second greatest dome in the world, shaped like the +narrow end of an egg, or more correctly, in the form of an elongated +octagonal elipsoid, resting on six massive piers ornamented with statues +of eight of the apostles, by Bandini, Donatello, Bandinelli, and +Sansovini. The octagonal balustrade is by Baccio d’Agnolo, and the +reliefs on the panels by Bandinelli. The fresco on the roof represents +the Judgment Day. The upper portion is by G. Vasari, in 1572, and +the rest by Federigo Zucchero, known in England by his portraits of +Queen Elizabeth. The drum of the dome is lighted by seven circular +windows, which, as well as the three over the main entrance, and the +twenty-seven long windows in the choir, were the work of Domenico Livi +da Gambassi, Bernardo de’ Vetri, and others, from 1434 to 1460. Behind +the altar is the last work of Michael Angelo (when eighty-one years of +age), an _unfinished Pieta_, a heroic group, large but not +colossal, composed of four figures, those of our Saviour, the Virgin +Mary, Joseph, and an Angel. The interest of the piece lies in the +melancholy but placid countenance of the Redeemer, and the inclination +of the head lacerated by the crown of thorns. +Florence: Michael Angelo’s last Work. +The Mask, Michael Angelo’s first work, is in the sixth room of the +National Museum, along with some other works of the great sculptor. His +greatest productions are in the Sagrestia Nuova, see page 266. The reliefs in +terra-cotta, over the elegant bronze gates of the sacristies, are +considered amongst the best works of Lucca della Robbia. On the pier at +the N.E. end of the nave is the statue of St. James, by Sansovino; and +just behind it, on +255 + +the wall, is a painting by Domenico di Michelino, in 1465, representing +Dante (holding in his hands a copy of his poems), with a view of +Florence in the background, the only monument the Republic raised to him +they had so unjustly banished. In the north transept, covered by the +wooden floor, just under the iron bar, is the gnomen and meridian line, +formed by P. Toscanelli in 1408, and repaired by A. Ximines in +1756. The line drawn on the true pavement, under the present boarded +floor, runs in a direction nearly at right angles to the nave (the nave +being nearly east and west). It is only about 30 feet long, and receives +the image of the sun, at and near the solstice, in June and July; at +other seasons the image is lost on the sides of the cupola. The short +diameter of the image in July is about 36 inches. The height of the +aperture, through which the ray enters by a window of the cupolina, is +277 feet 4 inches, 9.68 lines French measure; so that, as the +inscription states, it is the greatest gnomen existing. + +Florence: +Cathedral—Monuments—Campanile. + +Among the most interesting monuments in the church are: at the main +entrance, an equestrian portrait, by Uccello, of Sir John Hawkwood, +a captain in the army of the Florentine Republic, who died at +Florence in 1394. The mosaic, representing the coronation of the Virgin, +is by Gaddo Gaddi. At the west end of the south aisle is the marble +monument and portrait of Filippo Brunelleschi, by his pupil, And. +Cavalcanti. The third monument from the door is to Giotto, by Majano. +The beautiful water-stoup in front is by Giotto. Opposite the southern +entrance, in front of the Casa dei Canonici, are the statues, in a +sitting posture, of Arnolfo di Cambio and Brunelleschi, by Luigi +Pampaloni, in 1830. To the right of Arnolfo’s statue, at house No. 29, +is a stone in the wall, bearing the words “Sasso di Dante,” because on +it the poet used to sit watching the progress of the cathedral from its +commencement till 1301, when he was compelled to leave the city. + +At the southern entrance is the Campanile del Duomo, designed and +commenced by Giotto in 1334, and finished by Taddeo Gaddi. This +dove-coloured marble gem of architecture, of admirable proportions and +beautiful workmanship, towers 276 feet up into the air, by four storeys +of elegant windows, and terminates in a grand square cornice projecting +from the summit, from which, according to Giotto’s plan, a spire of +94½ feet was to have risen. The niches are peopled with statues of +apostles, saints, and philosophers, and the panels with Scripture +subjects in bold relief, by Donatello, Giovanni Bartolo, Andrea Pisano, +Niccolo Aretino, Lucca della Robbia, Giottino and N. di Bartolo. Ascent +by 414 steps. Fee, ½ franc each visitor. + +256 + + +Florence: The Baptistery—Gates. + +Adjoining the cathedral is the church of San +Giovanni, the baptistery of the city, founded in 6th cent., and +repaired and restored in 1293 by Arnolfo di Cambio. It is an octagonal +building, 94 ft. in diameter, covered by a cupola and lantern built in +1550. Three celebrated bronze gates, of +admirable workmanship, give access to it. The gate on the S. side +(fronting the Via Calzaioli) was modelled by And. Pisano, and, after +twenty-two years of incessant labour, cast and gilt in 1330. The +architrave, ornamented with foliage, was added by Lor. Ghiberti in 1446, +and the group at the top, representing the Beheading of John, by V. +Danti, in 1571—a work full of expression. The N. gate is by +Lorenzo Ghiberti, commenced by him when twenty-one, and finished +(modelled and cast) when forty-one, in the year 1424. It is in twenty +compartments, representing scenes from the life of Christ. The three +statues above, and the ornaments, are by Rustici, 1511, +a fellow-pupil of Michael Angelo, and friend of L. da Vinci. At the +eastern end, facing the cathedral, is the bronze gate which Michael +Angelo said was worthy to form the entrance into Paradise. This marvel +of art was commenced by Lorenzo Ghiberti in 1425, cast in 1439, and +finished, with the exception of the lower reliefs, in 1456, when +Ghiberti died, and left the remainder to be completed by his pupils, +among whom were the brothers Pollaioli. It is in ten compartments, +representing as many scenes from the Old Testament. In grouping, +drawing, grace, and beauty, the figures are truly admirable. The +perspective is well sustained; the distant objects being done in low, +the nearer objects in middle, and those close upon the eye in high +relief. Over the gate is the Baptism of Christ, by Sansovino, who, when +he died, in 1529, had finished only the modelling; but Danti, in 1560, +produced it in marble. The Angels, executed nearly a century afterwards, +are by Spinazzi, also from Sansovino’s model. + +Florence: The +Baptistery—Altar. + +The interior of the Baptistery rests on syenite columns and marble +pilasters with gilded capitals. Above them is a triforium, with frescoes +of saints on a gold ground painted on the panels. The roof and the +soffit of the arch over the altar are covered with mosaics representing +the Judgment Day, by Tafi, Torrita, and G. Gaddie, 13th cent. To +the right of the altar is the monumental tomb of Pope John XXIII. +(d. 1419), by Donatello and Michelozzi. To the left is the font, +placed here in 1658, and attributed to G. Pisano. The silver altar +of the Baptistery is kept in the “Uffizio del Comitate per la facciata +del Duomo” (behind the east end of the cathedral), where it can be seen +any day from 9 to 12, for 10 sous. It was constructed, during a long +series of +257 + +years from 1316, by the most eminent artists of the time, and represents +in bold relief the story of John the Baptist. It weighs 335 lbs., is 12 +ft. long by nearly 4 ft. high. The silver statue of St. John, made in +1452, weighs 14½ lbs., and cross 140 lbs. + +Florence: The Bigallo. Or San +Michele. + +Opposite the Baptistery, at the corner of the Via Calzaioli, is the +very beautiful little arcade or loggia of the Bigallo, attributed to +Orcagna, enclosed with iron gates by F. Petrucci. The oratory +contains an image of the Virgin by A. Arnoldo, 1359; and a +predella, with paintings, by Ghirlandaio. + +Or San Michele. + +Nearly in the centre of the Via Calzaioli, between the Piazzas del +Duomo and della Signoria, is the Or San Michele, built at first +of undressed stone, by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1282, for a granary or +horreum. Having been destroyed by fire in 1304, it was rebuilt in 1337 +under the direction of Taddeo Gaddi, the chief architect of the +commonwealth. To Gaddi succeeded And. Orcagna, who received orders to +transform the lower part (the loggia) into a church. In 1569 the upper +storey was converted into government offices. Round the building, in +deep niches, are statues in simple attitudes and of noble dignified +forms, the result of a decree that each trade should bear the expense of +furnishing one statue, which should be the protector and supporter of +its own profession. St. Luke, by John of Bologna (good specimen of his +style), was executed at the expense of the lawyers. Our Lord and St. +Thomas, by Verrochio, for the mercantile tribunal. John the Baptist, by +L. Ghiberti, for the guild of foreign wool-merchants. St. Peter, by +Donatello, for the butchers. John the Evangelist, by Montelupo, under a +graceful canopy of Robbia-ware, for the silk manufacturers. St. George, +by Donatello, his noblest work, for the armourers. St. James, by +N. Banco, for the tanners and furriers. St. Mark, by Donatello, for +the flax-dealers. West front, St. Eloy, by Banco, for the blacksmiths +and farriers. St. Stephen, by L. Ghiberti, for the wool-merchants. +St. Matthew, by L. Ghiberti and Michelozzo, for the stockbrokers +and money-changers. Statues of four canonised sculptors, by Banco, for +the builders and carpenters. St. Philip, by Banco, for the hosiers. And +inside the church, to the left of the altar of St. Anne, a Madonna, +by Simone da Fiesola, for the physicians and apothecaries. These statues +are considered the finest works of the ancient Florentine school. Over +the niches are the arms of the respective trades, under graceful +canopies. + +258 + + +In the interior the most remarkable object is the canopied high +altar, by Orcagna, otherwise called Cionis, with Ugolino’s sacred +picture of the Madonna. Inscribed on the altar is “Andreas Cionis pictor +Florentinus hujus oratorii archimagister extitit, 1359.” It is +ornamented with Scripture histories in relief on marble, the different +pieces being fixed together by pins of bronze run in with lead. The +small but beautiful stained glass windows do not admit sufficient light +into the church. Behind San Michele, in the Mercato Nuovo, is an +admirable copy, by Pietro Tacca, of the celebrated Boar, adapted no less +admirably to a Fountain. + +Florence: Santa Croce. + +Santa Croce. + +South-east from the fountain, in the Piazza della Signoria, by the +narrow street the Borgo dei Greci, is the Piazza Santa Croce, with, in +the centre, the fine marble statue of Dante, 16½ feet high, by Enrico +Pazzi. It and the new façade of the church were inaugurated in 1865, on +the 600th anniversary of the birthday of the poet. The church of Santa +Croce was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1297, to whom succeeded +Giotto in 1344. The façade, although only recently finished, is +according to the old design of S. Pollaiolo (d. 1509), and +owes its erection in a very great measure to the liberality of an +English gentleman, the late Francis Sloane, who died at Florence in +1871. The interior is divided into a nave and two aisles by seven acute +Gothic arches. The pilasters, supporting columns as well as the roof, +are of rude work, while the side chapels are not inclosed, but spread +out on the walls of the aisles, an arrangement which greatly favours the +display of the magnificent monuments erected in this church. The entire +length from west to east is 385 feet, and from north to south at the +transepts 128 feet. + +Florence: Santa Croce—Michael +Angelo—Dante—Macchiavelli. + +Over the principal entrance, in the interior, is the statue of St. +Louis, Bishop of Toulouse (d. 1297), the last work executed by +Donatello. In the right or south aisle, commencing from the main +entrance, after 1st altar, lies the monument and resting-place of Michael +Angelo, who died at Rome in 1563, in his 89th year. The monument was +designed by G. Vasari, and executed by three pupils of Michael +Angelo. The bust, considered an excellent likeness, is by +B. Lorenzione, one of the three. Next follows the great marble +monument by S. Ricci, in 1828, to the memory of Dante, who died when in +exile at Ravenna in 1321, in the 56th year of his age; and 3d, +a monument to the poet Vit. Alfieri (d. 1803), by Canova, in +1809, and one of his best works. Opposite this monument is an +elaborately wrought pulpit, by B. da Majano, in 1470. 4th. +259 + +Monument and resting-place of Macchiavelli (d. 1527), by Spinazzi, +in 1778. The originator of this monument was Lord Cowper, who, in 1707, +raised a subscription for the medallion. Then follow a fresco of St. +John and St. Francis, by A. Castagno, and an Annunciation in stone +by Donatello; +Florence: Santa Croce—Ketterick— +Countess of Albany. +and opposite it, on the floor, is the tombstone of John Ketterick, +Bishop of Exeter, who died at Florence in 1419, when on a mission from +Henry V. of England to the Pope. Then follow the monument to +L. Bruni (d. 1444), by B. Rossellini. The Virgin, above, +is by A. Verrochio, the master of Leonardo da Vinci. The tomb of +P. A. Micheli, and the mausoleum of Leop. Nobili, by Leop. +Veneziani. Turning to the right by the monument to Neri Corsini (died in +London, 1859), and a slab on the ground, with an inscription by +Boccaccio, in honour of the poet Berberino (14th cent.), we enter the +Chapel of the Castellani, with frescoes by Starnini (the ablest pupil of +Giotto), and reredos by Vasari. Over the altar is a crucifix, by Giotto; +at each side sarcophagi of the Castellani; and statues of St. Bernard +and St. Francis, by L. della Robbia. To the left is the monument to the +Countess of +Albany, widow of the young Pretender, died at Florence January 29, +1824; age, 72 years, 4 months, and 9 days. After the chapel of the +Countess of Albany follows the Baroncelli or Guigni chapel, with reredos +painting by Giotto, frescoes by T. Gaddi, and a Pietà by +Bandinelli. + +A handsome door by the side of the Baroncelli chapel opens into the +cloisters. In the cloister, the first door left hand opens into the +sacristy, built by the Peruzzi family in the 14th cent. Separated from +the sacristy by an iron railing is the Rinuccini chapel, with frescoes +and altars by Giovanni da Milano (1379), a favourite pupil of +T. Gaddi. The reredos painting is by T. Gaddi, 1375. At the +extremity of the cloister is the Cappella del Noviziato. At the entrance +is a shrine by Mino da Fiesole, and opposite it, and also over the +altar, admirable specimens of L. Robbia’s terra-cotta work. The +large relief is considered one of Robbia’s masterpieces. The small door +to the right of the altar leads to the room where the remains of Galileo +were kept many years after his death (in 1642). There are also two +mausoleums—one to a young American girl, Fauveau; and another +attributed to Donatello, both executed with much expression. + +Florence: Santa Croce—Giotto’s Frescoes. + +Returning to the church, we have, in the first chapel (right) +frescoes of the Giotto school, and an Assumption by Allori. Second +chapel, frescoes by Gio. da Giovanni. In the third, the Bonaparte +chapel, is, to the left, the monument by Pampaloni, 1839, to the memory +of the wife of Joseph Bonaparte; and, to the left, another to the memory +of their daughter, Julie Clary Bonaparte (d. 1845). The fourth, or +the first to the right of the high altar, is the Peruzzi chapel, with +reredos +260 + +by A. del Sarto. On the walls Giotto’s best frescoes, representing the +stories of St. John the Apostle and of John the Baptist. Fifth, the +Bardi chapel. The painting on the altar, representing S. Francesco, +is by Cimabue. The frescoes are by Giotto, and represent the life and +death of San Francesco. + +_Chapels of the Choir._—Over the high altar, painting by +Andrea Orcagna. The walls and ceiling are covered with frescoes by +Agnolo Gaddi, representing the legend of the finding of the cross, and +the life of St. Francis. The five following chapels are not of much +importance, excepting the third, in the north transept, painted in +fresco by Luigi Sabatelli. The sixth is the Niccolini chapel, with +frescoes on the roof, painted in the 17th cent. by Baldassarre +Franceschini, surnamed _il Volterrano_. This chapel contains five +mediocre statues by Francavilla, and two large paintings on wood by +Alessandro Allori, and is also richly decorated with beautiful marbles. +In the adjoining chapel, belonging to the Bardi family, is a crucifix by +Donatello, one of his earliest and best works, yet not equal to that of +his rival Brunelleschi in S. +Maria Novella (page 267). After the Bardi chapel follow the Zamoyska +mausoleum, with a painted reredos by Ligozzi, and the monument to the +composer Luigi Cherubini (d. 1842), by Fantacchiotti. +Florence: Santa Croce—Galileo— +Bartolini’s Last Work. +Having arrived at the fine monument to Luigi, at the east corner of the +north aisle, to avoid confusion it is better to return to the main +entrance, and walk up the north aisle, commencing with the monument and +resting-place of + +Galileo Galilei, + +who died in the village of Arcetri (p. 248), in 1642. Over the cenotaph is his +bust, and a representation of his first telescope. Then follows the +monument to Pompeio Josephi, a jurist; 3d, to G. Lani (1770), +by Spinazzi,—on the column before this monument is a Pietà by +A. Bronzino; 4th, to Angelus Tavantus, sarcophagus below flat +pyramid; 5th, to Vitt. Fossombroni, by L. Bartolini, 1846; 6th, to +Karolus Marzupinus, the learned secretary of the Florentine Republic, by +D. Settignano, 1450; 7th, to Antoni Cocchio, 1773; and 8th, to +_Raffællo Morghen_, the illustrious Neapolitan engraver, +a beautiful monument, by Fantacchiotti. Fronting it, on the column, +is the monument to L. B. Alberti, the last work of Bartolini. + +To the south of the façade a large doorway gives access to the +cloisters, around a spacious open court. At the far end, within this +enclosure, is the chapel of the Pazzi, one of Brunelleschi’s best works. +To +261 + +the right of the entrance into the cloisters is a building containing +the refectory, with a Last Supper, by Giotto, and above it a Crucifixion +and Tree of Jesse. In the smaller refectory, adorned with a fine fresco +of Gio. di Giovanni, the Inquisition held its tribunals from 1284-1782. +The doorkeeper at the gates has the keys of the Pazzi chapel and of the +refectory. In the centre of the enclosure is a statue by Bandinelli +which originally stood on the high altar of the Duomo. + + +Florence: National Museum. + +The National Museum or Bargello. + +At the southern end of the Via del Proconsolo, and between the +Piazzas Sta. Croce and Signoria, is the National Museum, in the +Palazzo del Podestà, built in the 13th cent. by Lapo Tedesco and two +Dominican friars, Fra. Sisto and Fra. Ristoro. It bore various names, +according to the functions of the different dignities who occupied it. +When, in the 17th cent., it was converted into a prison and became the +seat of the head of the police, it was called the Bargello. In 1864 it +was chosen for the National Museum. Open from 10 till 3.30, 1 fr. +Free on feast-days. The walls of the court are ornamented with the +escutcheons of 204 Podestas (chief magistrates). The rooms on the ground +floor are filled chiefly with armour, among which are a bronze cannon +cast in 1636, and Donatello’s seated lion, the Marzocco, or the +Arms of Florence, a seated lion supporting a shield with its +left paw. Ascend to the first floor by the _outside_ staircase in +the court. It was built by Agnolo Gaddi. At the top, in the vestibule, +are two bells, one cast in 1228 by Bart. Pisano, and the other by Cenni +in 1670. + +Florence: National Museum.—Sculpture—Michael +Angelo—Bologna—Cellini. + +_First +saloon._—All labelled. Principal objects—By _Michael +Angelo_, Wounded Apollo, Bacchus and Satyr, Dying Adonis, and an +unfinished group of Victory. Donatello, David with the head of Goliath. +G. da +Bologna, Virtue conquering Vice. A beautiful series of reliefs, +illustrating Music and its effects, chiefly by L. Robbia and +Donatello. _Second room._—Furniture and glass ware. Wax group +by Zumbo. _Third hall_, the audience chamber of the +Podestà.—Majolica, porcelain, and enamelled ware. _Fourth +hall_, originally a chapel, but afterwards the room in which +prisoners under sentence of death were confined. The frescoes are +chiefly by Giotto, 1301. Among the portraits on the fresco of the east +wall, representing heaven, are those of Dante, and of his master +Brunetto Latini. The St. Jerome and the Madonna are thought to be by +Ghirlandaio. In the adjoining Sacristy are two frescoes, one of which is +thought to be by Cimabue and the other by Gaddi. Those who wish to see +them must request the door to be opened. _Fifth_ +262 + +_saloon._—Two triptychs by Orcagna. Works in ivory and rock +crystal by Cellini, Bologna, and N. Pisano. Wood carving +by Gibbons. (In this saloon is the stair up to the second floor.) +_Saloons 6 and 7._—Sculptures by the best Italian +artists of the 15th cent., all labelled. Among them may be noted, in the +sixth saloon, Donatello’s David, in the centre. In the seventh, in the +centre, a Child by Donatello. The famous _Mercury_, by +Bologna. David, by Verrochio. On the wall, a bronze table by +Pollaiolo, representing the Crucifixion, and two bas-reliefs, the one on +the right by Ghiberti, and the other on the left by Brunelleschi, +prepared for the competition for the doors of the Baptistery of +Florence, won by Ghiberti. Next, a fine ornament by Donatello. At +the beginning of the third wall is a large bas-relief by V. Dante, +representing the Brazen Serpent in the Desert; and below it, another +representing a Battle, by Bertoldo. These are followed by a cabinet full +of sketches by the best artists of the 15th and 16th cents. After these, +the famous bust of Cosmo of Medicis in Armour, by Benvenuto Cellini, and +his model in bronze of the Perseus, under the loggia. Ascend now to the +second floor by the stair in the fifth room. 1st room.—Portraits +in fresco by A. Castagno (1450), transferred to canvas a few years +ago: viz. Uberti, Acciaoli, Dante, Petrarch, and Boccaccio. Stained +glass by Marcilla, 1470-1537. 2d room on the right.—Fine display +of glazed terra-cotta work by Luca and Andrea Robbia. Stained glass +window by Giovanni da Udini. 3d room (tower).—Tapestry 17th cent. +4th room (on the left of the entrance).—French tapestry and +collection of coins. In the next two rooms, 5 and 6, are the +Masterpieces of Mediæval Sculpture, which formerly stood in the +galleries of the Uffizi. Room 5, in centre, John the Baptist, by +Donatello. On the wall, in relief, by B. da Rovezzano, 1507, the +Translation of St. Gualberto, on white marble, mutilated. Room 6, in the +centre, St. John by Benedetto da Maiano. Young Bacchus, by Sansovino. +Apollo, by Michael Angelo. On end wall, the Death of St. Peter, by +L. Robbia. By Michael Angelo, the Virgin, Jesus, and St. John +(unfinished); the famous Mask of a Satyr (executed in his 15th year); +Martyrdom of St. Andrew (unfinished); and Bust of Brutus. Window wall, +bust of Battista Sforza, and a Holy Family, by Mino da Fiesole. Entrance +wall, Leda, by Michael Angelo. By Mina da Fiesole, a Madonna and a +bust of Piero dei Medici. Left wall, by Rossellino, a Madonna and a +St. John. Faith, by Civitale, 1484, one of his best works. Five children +supporting festoons, by Quercia, 1150, one of his best; and a Madonna, +by Verrochio. + +263 + + +Florence: La Badia. House of Michael Angelo. + +At the end of the Via Proconsolo, and opposite the National Museum, +is La +Badia, founded by Willa, in 978, for the Black Benedictines; +rebuilt in 1284 by Arnolfo di Lapo; and again, in part, in 1625 by +Segaloni. The church, in the form of a Greek cross, has some good +monuments and pictures. The Campanile was built about 1330. The handsome +door is by Benedetto da Rovezzano, 1495. The second monument to the +right of the entrance is to Gianozzo Pandolfini, by Ferrucci in 1457. On +the adjoining altar are beautiful reliefs by Maiano, 1442 to 1497. In +the north transept is the mausoleum of the Gonfalonier Bernardo Giugni, +d. (1466), by Mino da Fiesole. In the south transept is the mausoleum of +Count Ugo of Tuscany (d. 1000). Above is an Assumption, by +G. Vasari, and in the Cappella de’ Bianchi, a Madonna +appearing to St. Bernard, by F. Lippi. + +A little way east from the National Museum, at No. 64 Via Ghibellina, +is the house of Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, +a plain building, containing a collection of paintings, sculptures, +and sundry objects connected with Michael Angelo, bequeathed to the care +of the State by the last member of the family, Cosmo Buonarrotti, in +1858. The gallery is open to the public on Mondays and Thursdays, from 9 +to 3. Catalogue in Italian or French, ½ fr. The collection is contained +in seven rooms, some very small. In the centre of the first room is a +small bust of Michael Angelo, and Nos. 1, 2, and 3 portraits of him at +different ages. No. 14, Battle of Hercules, and No. 17, Madonna, both in +relief, by Michael Angelo. Nos. 11, 13, 15, and 16 are glazed +terra-cotta figures by the Robbias, displaying admirably the fine +delicate surface of the enamel peculiar to their productions. Amongst +those who have distinguished themselves in the manufactory of +earthenware is Luca della Robbia, a Florentine goldsmith and +statuary, born in 1388. He made heads and human figures in relief, and +architectural ornaments of glazed earthenware, terra-cotta invetriata. +The colours are white, blue, green, brown, and yellow. The art of making +these glazed earthen figures invented by Luca was taught by him to his +brothers Ottaviano and Agostino, and was afterwards practised by his +nephew Andrea. The rooms to the left contain drawings and plans of +Michael Angelo, many being the original sketches of his greatest works. +First room right, the principal room of all, contains the statue of +Michael Angelo in a sitting posture, by Novelli; and around the room +sixteen pictures illustrating scenes in his life. The lower six are in +grisaille. The ceiling is painted in fresco. The next or fourth room +contains the family history, illustrated by twenty-one fresco paintings. +In the small cabinet off this room are, among other things, +a two-edged sword with the +264 + +Buonarrotti arms. In the fifth room, No. 74, Michael Angelo, +a Madonna in relief, on marble. 77, a cast in bronze of 74, by +Jean Bologna, by whom is also 81, a bust of Michael Angelo. Sixth +room (the Library), large frescoes, representing the eminent men of +Italy. In the seventh chamber, and in the small room off, are Etruscan +antiquities. + + +San Giovannino, 264. +San Lorenzo, 264. +The Mortuary Chapel. +The Sagrestia Nuova, 265. +Biblioteca Laurentiana. +Etruscan and Egyptian Museum, 267. +Santa Maria Novella, 267. +Spezeria, 268. +See Plan, near station. + +Florence: San Lorenzo. Road to the Sagrestia Nuova. + +North from the baptistery, at the end of the Via de Martelli, and +next the Palazzo Riccardi (see +page 275), is the Church of San Giovannino, rebuilt in the 16th +cent., with frescoes representing scenes in the life of Christ, by +Passignano, Barbieri, Bronzino, Tito, Corradi, and Ligozzi. A few +yards west from San Giovannino is San Lorenzo, +considered in the earlier periods of the Republic the metropolitan +church of Florence. Its existence is traced as far back as the year 393, +when it was consecrated by St. Ambrose. In 1059 it was rebuilt and +consecrated by Pope Nicholas II. Having been destroyed by fire in +1417, during a festival given by the Guelphs of Arezzo and the Guelphs +of Florence, it was again rebuilt by Brunelleschi and Michael Angelo, +and finished by Antonio Manetti in 1461. It is constructed in the form +of a T, 400 feet long from east to west, and 170 from north to south. +The aisles are lofty, and separated from the nave by 14 Corinthian +columns. The two pulpits are adorned with subjects from Scripture, in +relief, by Donatello and his pupil Bertoldo. The cupola is painted by +Meucci. At the north transept is a monument in white marble by +Thorwaldsen to Pietro Benvenuto, the painter of the cupola of the +mortuary chapel. In the south transept is a monument to the memory of a +daughter of General Moltke. A slab at the foot of the high altar +bears the title and age of Cosmo I., but his remains repose in a +black and white marble tomb in the subterranean church. Those pressed +for time should, on arriving at the main or eastern entrance of St. +Lorenzo, turn down to the left by that narrow busy street the Via del +Canto de’ Nelli, to the large folding-doors under the west end or apse +of San Lorenzo, +Florence: Underground Chapel— +Mortuary Chapel. +which gives access to the burial chapel, “Dei Principi,” of the Medici +family, and to the still more famous chapel called the _Sagrestia +Nuova_. Both open on Sundays from 10, on Mondays from 12, and every +other day from 9 to 3. Having entered the crypt, ascend the stair to the +left, which leads into the mortuary chapel. +265 + +Guides offer their assistance, but they are of no use, as the sacristan +alone can unlock the doors. The Mortuary Chapel is octagonal, and covered +with polished marbles and other shining stones, glowing with brilliant +harmony of colour, yet chaste and simple. The splendid hues are +continued on the ceiling under the dome by the masterly frescoes of +P. Benvenuti, painted in 1835. In each of six of the sides is a +monument to a member of the Medicean family, from Cosmo I. to +Cosmo III. (d. 1723), whose son, G. Gastone +(d. 1736), has his memorial slab behind the altar in the crypt or +lower church downstairs, where repose the remains of Donatello near +those of his patron Cosmo I., as well as those of 35 other members +of this once powerful family, which gave three popes to the Church of +Rome, two queens to France, and reigned 250 years over the sixteen +cities of Tuscany, whose escutcheons in beautiful mosaic are set in +panels round the mortuary chapel, below the granite mausoleums of these +princes. The Cappella dei Principi was designed by G. de Medici, and +built by M. Nigetti in 1604, for Ferdinand I., Duke of +Tuscany, to receive the “great stone” which Joseph of Arimathea rolled +“to the door of the sepulchre” of our Lord; and which had been promised +him by the Emir Focardino, governor of Jerusalem. The Emir not having +fulfilled his promise, Ferdinand adopted the intention of his +predecessor, Cosmo I., and had it converted into the burial chapel +of the Medicean family. +Florence: Sagrestia Nuova. +From this chapel a short narrow passage leads to the Sagrestia +Nuova, or the Cappella dei Depositi, containing the monuments and +mortal remains of Giuliano, Duke of Nemours, and brother of Pope Leo X.; +and of their nephew Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, and father of Catherine of +Medicis; these two monuments, with the statue of Moses at Rome, are the +greatest works of Michael Angelo. The plan of the edifice was conceived +by Pope Leo, but the design and execution were entrusted in 1521 to +Michael Angelo. The interior is disappointing. A formal square +chapel, with walls partly encrusted with whitish marble, supported by +two tiers of Corinthian pilasters of that cold grey stone called pietra +dura, and pierced with doors and windows arranged in the same tame, flat +style. To the right on entering is the grand monument of Giuliano. He is +represented in a sitting posture, with his left hand gloved and raised. +The bent forefinger touches the upper lip, which seems to yield to the +pressure. The helmet throws a deep shade on the countenance. The two +statues reclining on the urn represent Day and Night. Day is little more +than blocked, yet most magnificent. To have done more would have +weakened the striking effect of the whole, which is +266 + +heightened by what is left to the imagination. Night is finely imagined. +The attitude is beautiful, mournful, and full of the most touching +expression—the drooping head and the supporting hand are +unrivalled in the arts. Opposite is the monument of the nephew. The +attitude of Lorenzo is marked by such a cast of deep melancholy brooding +as to have acquired for it the title of “il pensiero.” Beneath are the +personifications of Evening and Dawn. Twilight is represented by a +superb manly figure, reclining and looking down; the breadth of chest +and the fine balance of the sunk shoulder are masterly, while the right +limb, which is finished, is incomparable. The Aurora is a female figure +of exquisite proportions. In its serene countenance a spring of thought, +an awakening principle, seems to breathe life into the face of stone, as +if preparing it to open its eyes with the rising day. In front of the +altar is a striking but unfinished Madonna, by Michael Angelo. On the +right is a statue of San Cosmo, by Montorsoli, a pupil of Michael +Angelo’s, and on the left Santo Damiano, by Montelupo. + +Florence: Bibliotheca Laurentiana. + +A door in the middle of the south aisle of the church of +S. Lorenzo leads into the cloister, whence ascend the staircase, by +Vasari, to the Bibliotheca Mediceo-Laurentiana. The +books are kept in desks. Open from 9 to 3. Closed on feast-days. Fee, +1 fr. This library was founded by Cosmo in 1444. Amongst the +remarkable manuscripts there is one of Virgil of the 4th cent. in Roman +capitals, not very different in form from the letters on ancient Roman +marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a small quarto, with notes; the +notes written in the 5th cent. by the Consul Turcius Rufus Apronianus, +as his signature attests. This is one of the most ancient legible +manuscript books in Europe of which the period is authentic. The +manuscript of Virgil, in the Vatican library, with paintings, was said +to be of the 4th cent., of the time of Constantine. The manuscripts of +the middle ages, instead of being in Roman capitals, are written in +letters resembling in some degree the small Roman printed letter now in +use; and, at a still later period, they are in a running hand. This +library also possesses the celebrated manuscript of the Pandects, +supposed to be of the time of Justinian, in the 6th cent., written in +capital letters, which vary a little from the capitals on ancient Roman +marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a large folio book; it was +brought from Pisa, and Cosmo I. caused an edition to be printed +from it by Lelio Torelli. A Tacitus, of the 11th cent. is in a +running letter. The library contains 8000 volumes of manuscripts. Many +of them are chained to the desks. + +Florence: Etruscan Museum. + +Between S. Lorenzo and San Maria Novella in the Via Faenza, No. +267 + +144, is the Etruscan and Egyptian Museum. Open from 9 +to 4. Fee, 1 fr. Free on Sundays. + +_First Room_, The vases stand round the room in glass cases. The +earliest are in the first case to the right. Next, case 11, is the +entrance to an Etruscan tomb, which in its main features resembles that +in which our Lord lay. From the frescoes, which are copies of the +original on the tomb near Orvieto, it will be observed that the +Etruscans seem to have treated death as a feast, to which the spirits +were invited by the gods. _Second Room_, In the centre is the vase +of Peleus, or vase of François, by whom it was discovered in 1845 near +Chiusi. It is supposed to have been modelled by Ergatimos, and painted +by Clitias. _Third Room_, Minor objects. _First Octagon Room_, +Beautiful gold ornaments, beads, and glass bowls. Etruscan coins. From +this room a corridor extends to a similar room, in which is a beautiful +bronze statue of Pallas Athene with the ægis, and some fine Etruscan +mirrors. _Fourth Room_, In the centre stands the Chimæra, one of +the celebrated statues of antiquity. _Fifth Room right_, Armour. +_Sixth Room_, Etruscan sculpture. Both of the gems of the +collection are in this room—_The Orator_, a bronze +statue above life size, discovered near Lake Thrasymene; and an +_Etruscan Sarcophagus_, which lay nearly 2000 years buried in the +earth, and is supposed to have been made about 300 years b.c. From this we enter, by a passage covered with +inscriptions, into the Egyptian Museum. _First Room_, In the +centre, a Scythian war-chariot (the only specimen known), and by +the side of it the remains of the Egyptian soldier who probably captured +the chariot in battle. _Second Room_, The most interesting object +here is the fresco of the _Last Supper, by Raphael_, in 1505, when +only twenty-two. On the border of St. Thomas’s dress are the date and +name. In the last great hall are sarcophagi, reliefs, statues, obelisks, +idols, mummies, portraits, and tabernacles. + +Florence: Santa Maria Novella—Rucellai Chapel. + +Close to the railway station, and a short way west from the cathedral +and S. Lorenzo, is the church of Santa +Maria Novella, facing the piazza of the same name, adorned with +two large obelisks of Serravezza Mischio marble, crowned with Florentine +lilies in bronze, by G. Bologna, 1608. + +This church, standing south and north, was commenced in 1221 and +finished in 1371. The façade was designed by L. Alberti, and +erected at the expense of G. Rucellai, whose name is inscribed on +the frieze, “Joannes Orcellarius, 1470.” Affixed to it are gnomonic +instruments, made by Ignazio Dante in 1573. In the interior, the fresco +over the principal door is after the Lippi school. The crucifix is by a +pupil +268 + +of Giotto, Puccio Capanna. On the wall to the right of the door is a +remarkable fresco, a Trinity, by Masaccio; opposite is a fresco +attributed to Gaddi. But the most interesting objects are all at the +northern or apsidial end of the church. At the extremity of the east or +right transept, up some steps, is the Rucellai Chapel. On the reredos of the +altar is the Madonna painted by Cimabue, considered his masterpiece. +Florence: S. Maria Novella— +Ghirlandaio—Brunelleschi. +The walls of the chancel, or recess occupied by the high altar, are +covered with exquisite paintings in fresco by D. Ghirlandaio, +nearly all representing scenes from Scripture. The stalls are by +B. d’Agnola, and the windows by G. Fiorentino. In the chapel +on the left, or west from this, the Cappella Gondi, is the famous wooden +_Crucifix by Brunelleschi_. +A curtain is before it. At the end of the W. transept, up some +steps, is the Strozzi chapel, with frescoes by A. Orcagna and his +brother Nardo, representing the Day of Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. The +open door at the foot of the steps leads into the sacristy, where, +immediately on one side of the door, is a beautiful terra-cotta basin, +by L. Robbia; and, on the other side, one of marble by +G. Fortini. A large door in the west, or left aisle, opens +into the cloister called the Chiostro Verde, because the frescoes on the +walls, by Paolo Uccello, 1390-1470, and Dello Delli, 1401, are painted +in green. Here the keeper, for a few sous, opens the door leading into +the Cappella degli Spagnuoli, designated thus from having been used by +the attendants of Eleonora de Toledo, wife of Cosmo I. The ceiling +and the left wall are covered with admirably conceived and executed +frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi, while those on the right wall are by Simone +Memmi. Adjoining is the Chiostro Grande, ornamented with 52 frescoes, by +Cigoli, Allori, Tito, Poccetti, and other artists of the 15th and 16th +cent., illustrative of the history of the Dominicans, with views of +Florence in the background. +Florence: Spezeria. +At No. 16 Via della Scala is the entrance to the _Spezeria_, or +pharmacy of the convent, long noted for its perfumes, as well as for a +red liquor called Alkermes, a specialty of Florence, resembling in +taste the liqueur made at the Chartreuse, near Grenoble, only sweeter. +It is also made and sold at the Certosa (see page 250). The chapel contains some +beautiful frescoes, illustrative of the last hours of our Saviour, by +Spinello Aretino. + + +The Santissima Annunziata, 268. +San Marco, 270. +Picture-Gallery of San Marco, 270. +Academy of Fine Arts, 271. +Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure, +273. +North-east side of Plan. + +Florence. The Annunziata—Narthex Frescoes. + +From the N.E. end of the Cathedral the street, the Via dei Servi, +leads straight to the Piazza and Church of the _Santissima +Annunziata_ +269 + +the only church in Florence open the whole day. All the others close at +12; but most of them re-open about 2 or 3 p.m. On the right side of the Piazza is the Spedale +degli Innocenti, a foundling hospital designed by Brunelleschi, and +ornamented in 1470, by Andrea della Robbia, with pretty terra-cotta +figures over the columns of the arcade. In the centre of the square is +an equestrian statue of the Grand Duke Ferdinand I., by Bologna, in +1608, and two bronze fountains by Pietro Tacca. The Church of the +Annunziata was built in 1250 by the Order of the Servi di Maria. At +the entrance is a narthex or vestibule decorated with admirable +frescoes, protected by glass. To the right, on entering, an Assumption +by Il Rosso, 1515; then follow a Visitation, by J. Pontormo, 1516, +pupil of A. del Sarto; a Marriage of the Virgin, by Franciabigio, +1513; a Birth of the Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto, as also the next +picture, an Adoration of the Magi, both among his greatest works; +a Nativity by A. Baldovinetti. The next five are by A. del +Sarto; Children being Healed by touching the Dress of the Servite +Filippo Benizzi; a Dead Child recalled to life by touching the Bier +of Filippo; the Cure of a Woman possessed of a Demon; Men destroyed by +Lightning who had insulted Filippo. He parts his Cloak with a Beggar. By +Rosselli: Filippo assumes the habit of the Order. In the narthex is also +the tomb of Andrea del Sarto (died 1606), with bust by Caccini. + +The design of the interior of the church is by Ant. da S. Gallo. +Gherardo Silvani added the marble decorations. The pictures between the +windows are almost all by C. Ulivelli. On each side of the aisle +are five chapels, and at the termination of the aisle are two short +transepts and a circular tribuna designed by Alberti, covered with a +cupola painted by B. Franceschini and Ulivelli. In the right +transept is the tomb of Bandinelli, with a Pieta by himself. Immediately +behind the high altar, adorned with a ciborium or canopy by +B. Agnolo (1543), is the Cappella del Soccorso, with the tomb of +Gian Bologna (d. 1608), who constructed this chapel for himself, +and ornamented it with some of his best works. Under the organ in the +second chapel is an Assumption by Perugino. In the third chapel is a +Crucifixion by Stradano, his best work. In the fourth, a copy of +Michael Angelo’s “Judgment Day,” by Allori. Next it, and to the left of +the main entrance, is the chapel and shrine of the _Annunziata_, +built in 1445, by Michelozzi, and lighted by forty-one silver lamps and +one gold lamp glittering among costly polished stones. Over the altar is +an Annunciation in fresco by Pietro Cavallini (d. 1364), said to +have been done by angels. +Florence: The Annunziata— +Sacred Picture. +This picture is shown only once a year; but a duplicate +270 + +of it, also by Cavallini, is in San Marco, on the wall to the right on +entering. Over the altar is an “Ecce Homo,” by An. del Sarto, in silver. +Adjoining is the cloister built by S. Pollaiolo. Over the door +opening into the church is a “Holy Family,” by A. del Sarto, +a production in the highest style of excellence, called the Madonna +del Saco, as Joseph is seen in the background seated on a sack. The +other fresco paintings in the cloister are by Poccetti, +A. Mascagni, M. Rosselli, and V. Salimbeni (1542-1650), all +displaying rich colouring without gaudiness. In this cloister is also +the chapel of _St. Luke_, with the fresco of “St. Luke painting the +Virgin,” over the altar, is by Vasari, while those on the walls are by +Bronzino, Pontormo, and Santi di Tito. + +Florence: San Marco—Picture-Gallery. + +By referring to the plan, it will be observed that near to the +Annunziata are the Academy of Fine Arts and the Church of +S. Marco (standing from S.W. to N.E.) We shall commence +with _San Marco_, erected in 1290, and enlarged in 1427 by +Michelozzi. Interior.—Over central door a “Crucifixion” by Giotto. +First altar right, Thomas Aquinas before the Cross by S. di Tito, and an +Annunciation by P. Cavallini (covered). Second altar, Madonna and +Saints, Fra. Bartolommeo. Third, Madonna. Here a small door opens into +the sacristy built by Michelozzi, with statue of Christ by Novelli, and +of S. Antonino by Montorsoli. To the left of the high altar is the +Chapel of the Sacrament, with paintings by Tito, Empoli, Poccetti, and +Passignano. In the left transept is the chapel of S. Antonino, with +frescoes by Passignano in his best style, and a painting by Bronzino. +Between the second and third altars on this the left side of the church, +are the graves of the scholar Pico della Mirandola, d. 1494; the +poet Girolano Benivieni, d. 1542; and of Poliziano, d. 1494, +tutor to the sons of Lorenzo the Magnificent. To the right of the main +entrance is the Convent, now the _Picture-Gallery_, of St. Mark. Open from +10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays free. During the 15th and 16th cent. +this convent had for its superiors the good Bishop Antonino +(d. 1459), Fra. Angelico Fiesole (d. 1455), Fra. Girolamo +Savonarola, the great preacher and martyr (1498), and Fra. Bartolommeo +della Porta (d. 1517), the best collection of whose works is in +this convent. Among the very fine frescoes are—On the door of the +church, left hand wall, “St. Peter, martyr, with his hand on his mouth,” +B. Angelico. On the end or S.E. wall, “Crucifixion,” with St. +Dominic, B. Angelico. The door in the wall opposite the church +opens into the refectory, with a fresco representing Angels bringing +food to St. Dominic, by Sogliani (d. 1544), pupil of L. Credi. +Above is a “Crucifixion” by Fra. Bartolommeo. The door in +271 + +the south corner of the east wall opens into the chapter-house, with a +large fresco of the Crucifixion by B. Angelico. A very famous +work. The crucifix on the left is by B. Montelupo, and the other by +his son. The door in the middle of the east wall gives access to the +picture-gallery in the upper storey. At the foot of this stair is a +grand picture, a Last Supper (Cenacolo) by Ghirlandaio, who has +dressed the company in the costume of the brotherhood. From this ascend +to the first floor to what were the cells or rooms of the monks, ranged +on each side of a narrow passage ornamented with paintings in fresco. At +the head of the stair is a very beautiful Annunciation by Fra. Angelico, +and also by him, on the opposite wall, a St. Dominic embracing the +Cross. Opposite the Crucifixion is the best of the corridors. The cells +of the right corridor are ornamented with frescoes, principally by Fra. +Benedetto, and those of the left principally by his more famous brother, +Fra. Angelico. Next the staircase we have the library. Second room, +banners used for Dante’s festival in 1865. Next, two frescoes by +Benedetto. In the last two rooms, one a little higher than the other, +Cosmo de’ Medici (Pater Patriæ) used frequently to reside. His portrait +is by Pontormo, “The Jesus of Nazareth” is by Fra. Bartolommeo, and the +beautiful fresco by Angelico. In the cell opposite is a Crucifixion by +Angelico. In the third room, painted on wood by Angelico, are an +“Adoration” and an “Annunciation.” In the fourth, also by him, other two +famous pictures on wood, the _Madonna della Stella_ and the +_Coronation of Mary_. Turning to the right we find all the cells +(as far as that of Savonarola), with paintings by Fra. Benedetto or some +pupil of Angelico. In the middle of this corridor is the beautiful +Madonna enthroned, an admirable work of B. Angelico. At the end, in +a kind of chapel, are two Madonnas on the wall by Fra. Bartolomeo: +a Virgin in _terra invetriata_, by L. della Robbia; the bust +of Savonarola, full of expression, modelled by Bastianini; and a sketch +of the bust of Benivieni by Bastianini. In the two little cells at the +side, in which dwelt Savonarola, are preserved some manuscripts, +a crucifix, and other objects which belonged to him; as also his +portrait painted by Fra. Bartolommeo, and a view of the Piazza della +Signoria, with the burning of Savonarola and his companions. Proceeding +along the corridor, in which there are no cells on the right for some +distance, we come to more frescoes by Benedetto, the best being a +“Coronation” in the third cell. + +Academy of the Fine Arts. + +At the south-west corner of the Piazza San Marco, at No. 34 Via +Ricasoli, is the entrance to the Academy of Fine Arts. Open from 9 till +3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays, free. The principal door is by Paoletti. +272 + +In the vestibule are reliefs and busts of contemporary artists by L. +della Robbia. In the cloister are bas-reliefs by the brother and nephew +of Robbia, and Bologna’s models for his statues of Virtue and Vice, and +of the Rape of the Sabines. A corridor, containing statues in +stucco, to the right of the main entrance, leads to the library. Midway, +left hand, a door opens into the principal gallery, the hall of the +large pictures, with 124 paintings, by the following artists: +M. Albertinelli, A. Allori, B. Angelico, Spinello Aretino, +Fra. Bartolommeo, Biliverti, F. Boschi, Botticelli, Brina, +Bronzino, Buffalmaccio, Calabrese, A. Castagno, Cigoli, Cimabue, +Credi, Curradi, C. Dolci, I. Empoli, Gen. da Fabriano, A. and +T. Gaddi, R. del Garbo, Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Ligozzi, Fra. +F. Lippi, Aur. Lomi, Masaccio, Giov. da Milano, Monaco, S. P. +Nelli, L. di Niccolo, D. Passignani, Perugino, F. Pesellino, +Fra. P. da Pistoia, Poccetti, Fr. Poppi, C. Rosselli, A. Sacchi, A. +del Sarto, L. Signorelli, G. A. Sogliani, A. Squazelli, +Santi di Tito, Vasari, Veracini, Verrochio, Vignali. In No. 43, the +Baptism of Christ, by Verrochio, the angel to the right of the spectator +was painted by Leonardo da Vinci when he was twenty-three years old. No. +115, by Cigoli, St. Francis. It is said that in order to obtain the +unearthly expression of the face the painter kept a poor pilgrim for +many hours without food, until he fainted from hunger. This room is +followed by a chamber communicating with the Tribune, built in +1875, for the celebrated statue of _David_, sculptured by Michael +Angelo when 28 years of age. It was brought here in 1873 from the Piazza +della Signoria, where it had stood 369 years. From the library a door +opens into the Hall of Ancient Pictures, containing sixty paintings. The +artists of a large number are unknown. The others are by +B. Angelico, S. Aretino, M. Arezzo, A. Baldovinetti, +B. Berlinghieri, Neri di Bicci, Sim. da Bologna, +S. Botticelli, P. di Buonaguida, A. Ceraiolo, D. Ghirlandaio, +Bicci di Lorenzo, G. Pacchiarotto, and Signorelli. In the hall of +the small pictures there are seventy-one paintings, by artists already +named, the most important being Fra. and B. Angelico, who, with +Sandro Botticelli, Francesco Granacci, Luca Signorelli, and Lorenzo di +Credi, are better represented here than anywhere else. The most +remarkable are 41, “The Day of Judgment,” by Fra. Angelico. 13, +A “Nativity,” by L. di Credi; and 18, Portraits of two +Vallombrosian friars, by Raphael or Perugino. Beyond this is a +collection of original designs in a room called the Sala dei Cartoni. 2 +and 5 are by Raphael. 6, Correggio. 3 and 12, Ben. Poccetti. 1, 4, 9, +10, 11, 18, and 22, Fra. Bartolommeo. 19, Bronzino. 7, 8, and 20, F. +Barroccio. 24, Credi, and 23, Carlo Cignani. + +273 + + +From the vestibule a staircase leads up to the Galleria dei Quadri +Moderni, a collection of 160 modern paintings, distributed in six +rooms. The custodian of the academy keeps the keys of the Cloister dello +Scalzo, No. 69 Via Cavour, adorned with fourteen frescoes by A. del +Sarto, and two by his friend Franciabigio, in chiaroscuro, during 1517 +to 1526, illustrative of the life of John the Baptist. They are not in a +good state of preservation. + +Florence: Mosaics. Galleria dei Lavori in +Pietre Dure. + +Adjoining the Accademia delle belle Arti, at No. 82 Via degli Alfani, +is the entrance into the Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure, open from +10 to 3 daily. Entrance free. Rooms 1, 2, and 3 contain, in glass cases, +specimens of all the minerals and rocks used in Florence in the +manufacture of mosaics. They are numbered, and accompanied with +explanatory catalogues. They consist chiefly of varieties of marble and +alabaster, agates of different shades, chalcedony, jasper, lapis lazuli, +and red porphyry. The large room contains the finished mosaics, all for +sale, at prices from £80 upwards. Mosaics are made and sold in numerous +establishments throughout the city, but the best and most artistic are +sold here. + +The Palaces of Florence. + +The palaces of Florence are great square edifices of a grand and +gloomy aspect, built of dark blue stones (pietra forte) measuring from 3 +to 4 feet. The bases, to the height of from 20 to 30 feet, consist +of coarsely chiselled rubble work, which lessens the baldness, and +contributes character and effect to the from 200 to 300 feet of plain +wall. At intervals are strong bronze banner-rings and torch-sockets, +while at each corner is a curiously-shaped lamp of wrought-iron. Near +the main entrance there is generally a niche, with an opening called a +“cantina,” just large enough to allow a quart bottle to pass through, +whence various articles of food are transmitted into the house. Those +that sell by retail the oil and wine from their estates have painted +over this niche “Vino é Olio.” The empty bottle, with the money, having +been passed through, it reappears shortly after full. The windows of the +first range are generally 10 feet from the ground, and are grated and +barred like those of a prison. Under the eaves runs a deep cornice with +bold projecting soffits. The roofs of the palaces, as well as those of +the smallest houses, are of a low pitch, and covered with tiles of two +different forms—a flat tile with ledges on the side, and a tile +nearly semi-cylindrical and tapering upwards, which thus covers the +interstice between the ledges of the flat tiles. The entrance to the +palaces is by a high arched massive gateway, giving access to a court +surrounded by +274 + +an arcade or loggia, whence massive stone staircases lead up to the +highest storeys. The lofty ceilings of the principal rooms are +decorated, and the beams though displayed, are carved, painted, and +gilded, and contribute to the grandeur of the whole. The floors are of +thin bricks, either laid flat or edgeways in the herring-bone or +_spina di pesce_ fashion. As in Genoa, several of the palaces +contain collections of works of art open to the public on certain days. +Florence: Palazzo Vecchio. +Of these the best are—first, the Palazzo Vecchio, in the +Piazza della Signoria, erected in 1218 by Arnolfo di Lapo. It is +surmounted by a noble antique tower 305 feet high, commanding an +excellent view of Florence. The entrance is through a superb but gloomy +court, surrounded by an arcade on massive columns, by Michelozzi, +substituted for those of Arnoldo in 1434. They are 8 feet in +circumference, and of admirable proportions. In the centre is a neat +little fountain by Andrea Verocchio, intended originally for the Villa +Careggi. Having traversed this court, ascend first stair left hand, and +keep turning to the left the length of the first storey, where take +first door right, which opens into the great hall or council chamber, +170 feet long by 77 broad, built in 1495, but altered by Vasari in 1540, +who also added the frescoes on the walls and oil-painting on the ceiling +illustrative of events in the history of Florence. Now ascend to the +second storey, where enter the ante-room to the left, the Sala de’ +Gigli, with a grand but injured fresco by Ghirlandaio in 1482. The +lintel of the door in this room opening into the next, the Sala +d’Udienza, is by Benedetto da Majano. On one of the leaves of the door +is a linear drawing of Dante, and on the other one of Petrarch. The Sala +d’Udienza is painted in fresco by Salviati, illustrative of Roman +history. It communicates with the Cappella S. Bernardo, beautifully +painted in imitation of mosaic by R. Ghirlandaio. Near the chapel +of St. Bernard (sometimes approached by the four rooms of Eleanora de +Toledo, painted by Stradan of Bruges, and at other times by a narrow +passage), is a small chapel beautifully painted by Bronzino, and an +adjoining chamber painted by Poccetti. + +Florence: Dante’s House. + +North from the palace, by the Via dei Magazzini, is the Via +S. Martino, in which is a house with a marble slab over the +door, bearing the following inscription: “In questa casa degli Alighieri +nacque il Divino Poeta.” —_Dante._ He was married to Gemma in +S. Martino, a humble little church close by, in the Via dei +Magazzini. The Beatrice of Dante (like Petrarch’s Laura) lived in +the Palazzo Salviati, in the Via del Proconsolo. She married Giovanni +delle Bande Nere, and became the mother of Cosmo I. + +275 + + +Florence. Palazzo Strozzi, Corsini, Riccardi. + +In the Via Tornabuoni is the Palazzo Strozzi, open on Wednesdays +from 11 to 1. It was built in 1489 from designs by Majano. The ironwork, +rings, and lanterns are by Grosso di Ferrara, 1510. The picture-gallery +on the first floor is contained in four large rooms elegantly and +comfortably furnished. In each room there is a list of the paintings on +a card. The two most remarkable are—Portrait of one of the +ladies Strozzi by Leonardo da Vinci; and another of one of the children, +“La Puttina,” by Tiziano. Between the Strozzi Palace and the Arno is the +Piazza S. Trinità. In it, opposite the Hotel du Nord, is a column +of Oriental granite from the baths of Antoninus, presented to +Cosmo I. by Pius IV. A short way down the Arno (see plan), at +No. 10 Lungarno Corsini, is the Palazzo Corsini, built (1618-56) by +G. Silvani, staircase by Ferri. The collection of paintings, +contained in twelve rooms, may be visited on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and +Saturdays from 10 till 2. Entrance by No. 7 Via Parione. + +Next to the church S. +Giovannino (see p. 264), at No. 1 Via Cavour, is the Prefettura +della Provincia di Firenze, formerly the Palazzo +Riccardi, 300 feet long by 90 in height. This, the cradle of the +Medicean family, was erected in 1431, after the design of Michelozzi, by +Cosmo Pater Patriae, and continued to be the residence of the Medici +till 1540, when it was abandoned for the Palazzo Vecchio. The first row +of large windows was opened by Michael Angelo; for originally the base, +rising to 30 feet, presented one unbroken space, varied only by the +projection of the vast and rudely chiselled stones of which it is +composed. In the court below the corridor are statues and busts, and the +sarcophagi which were formerly outside the baptistery, and a curtain +beautifully sculptured in stone over one of the arches. Upstairs are the +Biblioteca Riccardi, a picture-gallery, and a small chapel covered +with most charming frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli 1400-1478, painted by +lamplight, as the chapel at that time had no window. Palace open from +12.30 till 2. + +Down the Arno, beyond the Ponte alla Carraia (see plan), is the +Church of Ognissanti. In the chapel next the door of the sacristy repose +the remains of Amerigo Vespucci, who gave his name to America. In the +centre of the nave are frescoes by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli. The +frescoes in the cloisters illustrating the life of St. Francis are by +Giovanni and Ligozzi. The Last Supper, in the refectory, is by +Ghirlandaio. A little way up the street called the Borgo Ognissanti +is the Hospital S. Giovanni di Dio, founded +by Amerigo Vespucci; while the house in which he lived and died stood on +the site of the present No. 21 Borgo Ognissanti. + +276 + + +Park of Florence. Villa Careggi. Palazzo Torrigiani. + +At the west end of the town, near the Porta Prato, is the Cascine or Park of +Florence, on the right or north hank of the Arno, much frequented in the +afternoon. An omnibus runs every 10 minutes between the Porta Prato and +the Piazza della Signoria. Opposite the Cascine is the hill Monte Oliveto, page 251. Nearly two miles +north from the railway station by the Romito road is the Villa +Careggi, built by Michelozzi for Cosmo Pater Patriae, in which +he died on August 1, 1464, as also Lorenzo the Magnificent, on the 8th +of April 1492. At the Ponte alle Grazie, the first bridge above the +Ponte Vecchio, is the Palazzo Torrigiani, built by Baccio +d’Agnolo, containing a valuable collection of paintings, accompanied +with catalogues. Open daily excepting Saturdays and Sundays. + + +Fiesole. + +At the east side of the town, by the Via Alfieri or +Pinti, is the Protestant cemetery, between the Boulevards Eugenio +and Amedeo, the latter leading northwards to the Piazza Cavour with the +Porta S. Gallo. From this Porta commences the road to the Etrurian +city of Faesula, the modern _Fiesole_, 3 miles from Florence, +and about 600 feet above it, on the summit of a ridge composed of a +dark-coloured sandstone. Rail to Fiesole. Carriage there and back, 8 to +10 fr. From the Porta S. Gallo it is an easy walk of about 2½ +miles. See the excellent map of the environs (Dintorni) of Florence, +published by the “Istituto Topografico Militare,” 1 fr. Beyond the +Porta S. Gallo take the road leading up the left or east bank of +the Mugnone for about 1 mile, as far as the Villa Palmieri, where, +in 1348, Boccaccio wrote his Decameron. From this the road ascends +between walls about 1 mile more to the Church and Convent of +S. Domenico, in which Beato Angelico was one of the monks. The +church contains an Annunciation by Empoli; a Baptism of Christ by +Credi; a St. Francis by Cigoli; and in the choir a Virgin with +Saints by B. Angelico. Near S. Domenico is the Villa Landore, +which was occupied for many years by Walter Savage Landor. The road +striking off to the left or towards the Mugnone, leads to the venerable +abbey of La Badia di Fiesole, rebuilt in 1462 by Brunelleschi. The road +from St. Domenico to Fiesole is rather steep, and passes, at about +two-thirds of the way, the beautiful old mansion with terraced gardens +called the Villa Mozzi or Spence, once a favourite residence of Lorenzo +il Magnifico, and the place in which the Pazzi conspiracy was formed in +1478. A short way beyond, the road enters the Piazza of +_Fiesole_ (pop. 11,500. _Inns:_ Locanda +277 + +Firenze; Trattoria l’Aurora), famous for views and stone-quarries. One +side of the Piazza is occupied by the Cathedral, dedicated to St. +Romulus, commenced in 1028, and in form resembling S Miniato. To the +right of the high altar is the mausoleum of Bishop Salutati, and a +marble tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole in 1465. The frescoes on the +ceiling of the chancel are by Ferrucci; and the statue of St. Romulus in +a sitting posture by Luca della Robbia or his nephew. In a garden behind +the church are the remains of a Roman theatre. The road passing this +garden leads to the ruins of the ancient walls, formed of huge +uncemented blocks, not parallel, but of different sizes, and some of +them indented into each other. Fronting the Cathedral is the +commencement of a little stony road leading up to the terrace of a +Franciscan convent, commanding a glorious view, and to the church of +S. Alessandro, with columns of Cipollino marble. + +S. Salvi—Vencigliato—Settignano. + +S. +Salvi. Vencigliato. Settignano.—1¼ mile east from the +Porta S. Croce, by the road following the railway, is +S. Salvi, containing a Last Supper, by A. del Sarto, in the +refectory. From S. Salvi northwards to the Via Settignano, which +follow for 1½ mile eastwards, then take the road to the left going +northwards, and crossing the Mensola above its union with the +Frassinaia, is the Castle +of Vencigliato, founded in the 10th cent., 5 miles +north-east from the Porta S. Croce, and situated on the summit of a +hill commanding a splendid view. In 1860 it was restored at the expense +of an Englishman, Temple Leader. 1¼ mile east from the part of +Settignano road, whence the Vencigliato road ramifies, is Settignano, the birthplace of +Michael Angelo. + +Straw-plaiting gives employment to numerous females around Florence. +The wheat used is sown in March, and is cut before the grain is ripe. +The straw is then divided into pieces from 6 to 8 inches long, and +exposed for sale in the markets in small bunches. In this state it is +bought by the plaiters, who in their turn expose for sale yards of +plaited straw to the hatters. + +The vin ordinaire given at the restaurants of Florence is principally +the Vino Monteferrata, which, when two or three years old, resembles an +inferior dry claret. In Savoy and Tuscany large flat cakes are made of +ground chestnuts. They are sold hot, have a sweetish taste, and are very +nourishing to those who can digest them. + +Excursion to Vallombrosa, Camaldoli, and +Alvernia to the east of Florence. (See Map on page +199.) + +To Vallombrosa. Take rail to Pontassieve, 13 miles east from Florence, pop. 11,000. +_Inn:_ Italia; where hire coach for Pelago, +278 + +6 miles east. Fare, 6 fr. Pelago (pop. 2000). _Inn:_ Buon +Cuore; whence mule, 5 fr., guide, 2 fr., to Vallombrosa, +8 miles south. Or coach as far as Tosi, about 5½ miles from Pelago, +and the rest by mule or on foot. At Pontassieve a carriage for two at 12 +fr. per day, or for four at 20 fr. per day, may be hired for visiting +the three sanctuaries. Having visited Vallombrosa, return to Pelago, and +proceed to Bibbiena, 15 miles east, by the Consuma, Borgo alla Collina, +and Poppi, 4 miles from Bibbiena. From Bibbiena mules or horses +must be hired for Alvernia, 2 hours distant. From Alvernia a fatiguing +path leads to Camaldoli, in about 6 hours. The better plan is to go to +Camaldoli from Bibbiena, distant 4 miles northwards from +Bibbiena. + +Vallombrosa. + +A little beyond Pelago the road to Vallombrosa begins to ascend the +Apennines, disclosing in the ascent many charming views of hills crowned +with villas, and mountains covered with evergreen oaks, intermingled +with bare perpendicular cliffs, and roaring torrents tumbling from the +crags. _Vallombrosa_ +is situated 2980 feet above the sea, on the side of Mt. Protomagno, +which rises 2340 feet higher. Although the scenery does not agree +altogether with Milton’s description in _Paradise Lost_, book iv. +lines 131-159, it possesses that charming loveliness which inspired the +divine poet with the ideas conveyed in these lines. The steep acclivity +is clothed with a “woody theatre” of stateliest chestnuts, oaks, firs, +and beeches, which in ranks ascend, waving one above the other, shade +above shade; or hang from the very brows of precipices, whose verdant +sides are with thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild. “Higher than +their tops” an occasional glade breaks the uniformity of the sylvan +scene, while on the summit expands a wide grassy down with enamelled +colours mixed, from which there is a “prospect large” over foliaged +hills, and the wild, bleak, sterile mountains of Camaldoli and Alvernia. +The church and convent were erected in 1637. The latter is now occupied +partly by a forestry school and partly by an inn. Nearly 300 feet +higher, by a winding path, is Il Paradisino, a little hermitage +romantically situated on a projecting rock commanding a grand view. The +scagliola decorations in the chapel were by an Englishman, Father +Hugford, who excelled in various branches of natural philosophy, +and in the art of imitating marble by that composition called scagliola. +He died in the last century. The ascent to the summit of the Protomagno +occupies 1 hour; guide 2 fr. The road to Camaldoli winds round the +mountain that shelters Vallombrosa on the north side, and then descends +into the Val d’Arno Inferiore. On a knoll, encircled with trees in the +middle of the plain, is the noble now ruined castle of Romena, and +behind it the villages of Poppi and Bibbiena. + +Camaldoli. Sacro Eremo. Alvernia. + +The abbey of _Camaldoli_, founded by S. Romualdo, +a Calabrian anchorite, in 1046, is situated on the torrent Giogana, +in a valley surrounded by high mountains. About 2 miles above the +monastery, on a hill to the north, by a zig-zag path through the forest, +is Il Sacro Eremo, +the hermitage of the convent. The church is neat, and possesses an +Annunciation in relief by Robbia. From the culminating point of the +ridge, the Prato al Soglio, is one of the finest views in this part of +Italy. +279 + +About 14 miles from Camaldoli, on Mons Alvernus, a lofty +rock towering above the neighbouring eminences, and split into +numberless pinnacles of fantastic forms, full of grottoes and galleries +hollowed out by nature, is situated the convent of _Alvernia_, founded by St. Francis in 1213, and +inhabited by about 110 monks. From the church a covered gallery leads to +the cave with the chapel of the Stemmate, in which St. Francis is said +to have received, imprinted on his body, marks similar to those produced +on Jesus Christ by the crucifixion. From Camaldoli and from Alvernia +return to Bibbiena, where the diligence may be taken to Arezzo, pop. +12,000, whence rail either to Rome, 141 miles south, or to Florence, 54 +miles north-west. The drive from Pontassieve to Florence, by the Arno, +is very beautiful. + +Florence is 291 m. S.E. from Turin by +Pistoja, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Piacenza, and Alessandria. Time by +quick trains, 13 hrs. 1st class, 52 frs. 95 c.; 2d class, 37 frs. 5 c. +See Black’s _South France_, East half, page +233. + +(Paragraph shown as printed.) + +Florence is 196½ m. N. from Rome by Arezzo, Terontola, Chiusi, +Orvieto, and Orte. 8 hrs. by quick train. 1st class, 34 frs. 30 c.; 2d +class, 23 frs. 55 c. Florence is 60¼ m. E. from Leghorn by Empoli, +Pontedera, and Pisa. 2 hrs. 20 min. by quick train. 1st class, 10 frs. +45 c.; 2d class, 7 frs. 15 c. See the “Indicatore Ufficiale.” To +the price given in the Indicatore the amount of the tax has to be +added. + + +Busalla. Novi. + +Genoa to Turin by Alessandria and Asti. + +Distance, 103½ m. N.W. Time by quick trains, 4¼ hrs. Map, page 199. + +Genoa.—The train after traversing the first tunnel +emerges at the busy populous suburb of Sampierdarena, 1¼ m. W. from +Genoa and 2½ m. E. from Sestri-Ponente. The rail now turns northward and +ascends the valley of the impetuous torrent of the Polcevera, traversing +six tunnels. Having passed Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, the +train arrives at Busalla, +14¼ m. N. from Genoa and 89¼ m. S. from Turin. Busalla is +situated on the culminating part of the line (1192 ft.), on the crest +which divides the basin of the Adriatic from the Gulf of Genoa. Here +also the gradients of the line are highest, being about 1 in 28½ or 35 +in 1000. The longest tunnel on the line, the Galleria dei Giovi, 3390 +yards, is just before arriving at Busalla. It perforates calcareous +schists, and is ventilated by 14 shafts. The scenery, which has been +hitherto very picturesque, becomes tame after traversing the last tunnel +at Arquata, 26 m. N. from Genoa, in the narrow valley of the +Scrivia. 33½ m. N. from Genoa, and 70 m. S. from Turin, is +Novi, H. La Sirena, +a town of 11,000 inhabitants, situated among hills; where, in +August 15, 1799, a great battle took +280 + +place between the French under Joubert and the Austrians and Russians +under Suwarrow, when the former were defeated and their general killed. +Novi is 60 m. S.W. from Milan by Tortana, Voghera, and +Pavia. + +Alessandria. + +47¼ m. N. from Genoa and 56¼ m. S.E. from Turin is Alessandria, pop. 30,000, +234¼ m. N.W. from Florence by Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and +Pistoja. See Black’s _South France_, East half. See map, page 199. + +At the Alessandria station hot coffee and chocolate are always ready. +_Hotels:_ L’Universo; Italia; Europa. Alessandria received its name +in compliment to Pope Alexander III. The citadel, capable of +holding 50,000 men, was built in 1728. The cathedral has a façade in the +modern taste, with granite columns; in the interior is a colossal statue +of St. Joseph by Parodi. The other churches are the Madonna di Loreto +and S. Lorenzo. The Ghilino palace, now belonging to the crown, was +designed by the elder Alfieri. Two great fairs are held annually at +Alessandria—one in April, the other in October. In the +neighbourhood is the village of Marengo, near which took place (June +1800) the battle between the French and the Austrians that was first +lost by Bonaparte and afterwards won by Desaix and Kellermann. From +Alessandria the train ascends the valley of the Tanaro, passing the +minor stations of Solero, Felizzano, Cerro, and Annone; then at +34¾ m. E. from Turin, and 68¾ m. N.W. from Genoa, arrives +at + +Asti. + +Asti (the _Hasta Pampeia_, +or Pompey’s Market, of the Latins), a place of 18,000 inhabitants. +H. Leone d’Oro. Celebrated for its sparking wines, both red and +white. The cathedral is a large and fine Gothic structure (1348). The +adjacent church of S. Giovanni is built upon a basilica, of which +the existing part is borne by monolithic columns with capitals bearing +Christian symbols, 6th cent. Near Porta Alessandria is the small +Baptistery of San Pietro, 11th cent., resting on short columns with +square capitals. Alfieri, the poet, was born here, in a palace built by +his uncle, who was a count and an architect. He died in 1803. The +tertiary strata of the neighbourhood are very rich in fossils. Loop-line +from Asti to Milan in 3½ hrs. + +From Asti the train descends by Villafranca, where there is a viaduct +over the Standvasso, about 100 ft. above the stream. Farther W., at +Trofarello, is the junction with the loop-lines to Savona, 82½ m. S. (page 183), and to Cuneo, 46½ m. S.W. (page 183). + +Five miles S. from Turin is Moncalieri. On the hill-side, overlooking +the town, is the large royal palace in which Victor Emmanuel I. +died in 1823. + +For Turin, see Black’s _South France_, East half. Loop-line +to Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W., and to Torre-Pellice, 10½ m. farther +west, in the Waldensian valleys. See Black’s _South France_, East +half. + +Paragraph shown as printed. + + + + + +Italy and the Alps: Itineraries +Italy and the Alps: Maps +Italy and the Alps: Text + +General Index + + + +ITINERARY +(pages 281–end) + +PARIS to TURIN +281 + +PARIS to MODANE +281 + +Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy +286 + +Modane to Turin +291 + +Bussoleno to Susa +291 + +Turin to Torre-Pellice by +Pinerolo +305 + +Torre-Pellice to Mont-Dauphin by the Col de la +Croix +306 + +Perosa +to Mont-Dauphin by the Col d’Abriés +307 + +Perosa to +Cesanne by the Col de Sestrières +307 + +Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin by the Col de la +Traversette +308 + +Cuneo +to Barcelonnette (_see_ Barcelonnette to Cuneo) +341 + +TURIN to FLORENCE by +Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna +309 + +St. +Pierre d’Albigny to Courmayeur by the Little Saint Bernard +320 + +PARIS to MODANE by +Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the route to take to visit the +Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys about the formidable group +of the Ecrin mountains +322 + +Grenoble to +Sassenage +327 + +Grenoble to Briançon by +Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de Lautaret. A grand mountain road +328 + +Bourg +d’Oisans to La Berarde, at the +base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe +329 + +Briançon to Mt. Pelvoux by La Bessée and the Val +Louise +333, +345 + +Briançon to +Oulx by Mt. Genèvre and Cesanne +333 + +Grenoble to Corps by La +Mure (map, p. 27). +From Corps another diligence proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From Corps the pilgrimage is made to +N. D. de la Salette +333 + +Goncelin to +Allevard-les-Bains +336 + +MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE +by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles +and Claix (map, +p. 27) +338 + +St. Auban to +Digne +339 + +Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie and Seyne (map, p. 304) +339 + +Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, Colmars and +Allos +339 + +VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE +station, 51 miles N.E. by rail. Both of these towns are at the French +end of several of the important passes between France and Italy +340 + +Gap to +Barcelonnette +341 + +Barcelonnette to Cuneo (map, p. 27) +341 + +Gap to +Grenoble by Corps (map, p. 304) +342 + +Mont-Dauphin to Saluzzo (map, +p. 304) +344 + +Paris to Lyons by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27) +346 + +Paris to +Lyons by Tarare (map, p. 27) +348 + +Lyons to +Clermont-Ferrand by Montbrison (map, p. 27) +349 + +Paris to Marseilles by Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes +(see map on fly-leaf) +351 + +Moulins to the +Baths of Bourbon-l’Archambault by Souvigny and +Saint Menoux (map, +p. 1) +356 + +Moulins to the +Baths of Bourbon-Lancy by +Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (p. 27, map p. 1) +357 + +St. +Germain-des-Fossés to Vichy +359 + +Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by Laqueuille +376 + +Laqueuille to +the Baths of Mont-Dore and Bourboule +377 + +Mont-Dore +to Issoire by the Baths of St. Nectaire +385 + +A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station. + + + + +MAPS AND PLANS +(pages 281–end) + + +page + +Bologna, Plan of +316 + +Mont Cenis railway, Plan of +291 + +This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane +and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to +Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St. +Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy. + +Mont-Dore and Bourboule, Map of environs +378 + +The French and Italian Waldensian valleys, with the +mountain-passes between them +304 + +Turin, Plan of +293 + +Vichy, Plan of +359 + + + +281 + + +Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera. + +By Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Bourg, +Ambérieux, Culoz, Aix-les-Bains, Chambery, Modane, and Mont Cenis. The continuation of this line +southwards from Turin extends to Genoa by Alessandria (page +279). + +Part First.—Paris to +Modane, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide, 13 hrs. 36 min. Part +Second.—Modane to Turin, 58½ +miles. Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min. + +_Time-tables._—In England, see under “London to Turin” in the +Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, which +Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station of the +Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of their +Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and +Chambery. For the whole route consult the Sketch Map on the fly-leaf. For the +northern part, between Paris and Macon, see map, page 1; and from Macon to Turin, map, page 26. + + +PART I.—PARIS TO MODANE. + + +MODANE +431 +PARIS. In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de +Lyon Station is the Grand Hôtel de l’Univers, and under it a Café +Restaurant. A little farther off is Hôtel Jules César. Good +restaurant also in the station. For the first 274 m. between Paris +and Macon, see pages 1 to 26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates +from this one. At Montereau, 49½ m. from Paris +(p. 10), the Express halts 4 min.; but not the Rapide. At La Roche (p. 14) both +the Rapide and the Express halt 5 min. At Tonnerre (p. 17) they halt again 5 min. +At Les Laumes +(p. 19) the Express halts 5 min. At Dijon (p. 20) both halt 6 min. At Macon (p. 26) they halt 5 +min. At Macon the Turin line separates from the Marseilles line, and +goes 23 m. E. to Bourg, 297 m. from Paris. At Bourg, in the +church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg a loop-line +traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97 m. W. (See +map, p. 27; and +for description, Black’s _France_, North half.) 5½ m. S.E. from Bourg the +line crosses the Ain at the village of Pont-Ain, and afterwards arrives +at Ambérieu, +316¼ m. S.E. from Paris, and 114¾ m. N.W. from Modane. At +Ambérieu the Rapide halts 10 min., and the Express 15 min. Ambérieu, +pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on the Albarine at the base of the Jura +mountains, and connected by rail with Lyon, 32½ m. west. From +Ambérieu another loop-line extends 11 m. S. through a mountainous +country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with important quarries, on the Fouron +near its junction with the Rhône. Between Ambérieu and Culoz the rail +passes through the last ramifications of the Jura +282 + +mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. base of Mt. +Colombier, 4733 ft., ascended in 4 hrs. either from Culoz or Artemart. +The view is admirable—on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes +of Bourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends +to Lyons and the mountains of Ardêche. + +Lagnieu. Virieu le Grand. Culoz. + +8 m. S. from Ambérieu and 3 m. N. from Montallieu is Lagnieu, pop. 3500, station for +La Balme, pop. 1000, +3 m. S.W., on south side of Rhône. There is a cave here with great +galleries and stalactites, and a lake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and +13 ft. deep. It is easily approached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons +steamboats. Alight at the Salette station, 20 min. walk from the +entrance into the grotto. + +From Ambérieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which, +after St. Rambert-de-Joux, 7 m. S.E. from Ambérieu, becomes wild +and imposing. At Tenay, _Inn:_ Pittion, 4¼ m. farther, the +train quits the Albarine and traverses a sequestered valley to + +Virieu le +Grand, 340 m. S.E. from Paris, pop. 1100. Junction with +loop-line to Belley, 9½ m. S., pop. 5000; _Inns:_ Rey; Camus, +with important quarries of lithographic stones. 442½ m. from Paris +and 19¼ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of +Cerveyrieu. + +347½ m. S.E. from Paris, 14½ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 83½ m. N. +from Modane, is Culoz, on the +Rhône, about ¾ m. E. from the station, 771 ft. above the sea, pop. +1200. Near the station are the inns *H. Folliet; H. Mémon. +A great deal of carriage-changing takes place here. 41 m. N.E. +is Geneva; see Black’s _North France_, and map p. 26. 4½ m. S. from Culoz and +10 m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Châtillon, 700 ft. above the sea, on +the N.E. extremity of Lake Bourget, 2 hrs. distant by row-boat from Aix. +In the castle, 13th cent., commanding a charming view of the lake, Pope +Celestin was born. + +Lake Bourget is 700 ft. above the sea, 10 m. long, from 2 to +3 m. wide, and from 200 to 300 ft. deep. The W. side is bounded by +the steep ridge of Mont Chat. Opposite to Aix is a depression, the +Col du Mont Chat, 2070 ft., and +immediately to the S. a bold craggy peak, La Dent du Chat, 5302 +ft., ascended from the little village of Bordeaux in about 4 hrs., after +a very fatiguing climb. One of the best points for a view over the lake +and the surrounding country is the Revard, 5112 ft., one of the summits +of the ridge Mont d’Azy, which bounds the E. side of the plain of Aix +(see page 285). It is ascended from the +village of Mouxy in about 4 hrs. + +The best of the fish caught in the lake is the ombre-chevalier. The +lavaret is peculiar to it. There are also trout, perch, pike, shad, +carp, gudgeon, tench, and barbel. + +283 + + +Aix-les-Bains. Hotels. + + +PARIS +MODANE +362 +69 +AIX-LES-BAINS, +850 ft. above the sea, 1½ m. from Lake Bourget, pop. 6000. The +Casino is a handsome building, with park of its own extending to the +railway station. First-class hotels—their pension is from 12 to 20 +frs., but it is necessary to arrange the price at the commencement. On +each side of the Casino are the *H. Aix, with garden, and the +Univers. Opposite are the H. de la Galerie and the Nord. Then +follow the _Hotels_: *Europe; *Venat, with large +garden; and opposite, at the end of R. du Casino, the H. Genève. +Second-class houses: in the parallel street, the R. Genève, behind +the R. du Casino, are the H. Durand; *Gaillard; in the Place +Centrale the H. Poste. Opposite the H. Poste is the office +whence the omnibuses start for the lake and the Lyons steamboats, and +for Marlioz. Up by the side of the Bath-house is the H. de +l’Etablissement. In front, the H. de l’Arc Romain. To the left, in +the Rue des Écoles, is a small clean family house, the H. Germain. +A little beyond is the H. Châteaux-Durrieux. Below the last, +the H. Folliet and Italie. The pension price in the above +second-class houses varies from 7 to 11 frs. On road to station, the +H. des Bergues. + +On an eminence overlooking the park is the *Splendide Hôtel, +a really splendid first-class house. Below it is the +H. Beau-Site, also a new but a smaller first-class house. + +The Port is nearly 2 m. from Aix by the R. de Genève, and then to the +left. At the pier is the inn Beau-Rivage, “Poissons frais.” + +Abundance of furnished lodgings. English chapel, Rue du Temple, +behind the H. Venat. Presbyterian chapel in the park. + +Aix-les-Bains: Cabs. + +_Cabs or +Fiacres._—One-horse cab—3 frs. for the first hour; +every succeeding hour, 2 frs.; per day, 20 frs. Two-horse +cab—for first hour, 4 frs.; every succeeding hour, 3½ frs.; +per day, 20 frs. Riding horses—two hours, 4 frs. +Donkeys—one hour, 1 fr.; half-day, 4 frs. + +The bathing establishment is a very large edifice, especially fitted +up for the external application of the water, very little being drunk. +Mineral water flows from the fountain in front of the building. Behind +the establishment are the caverns whence the springs issue. To visit, ½ +fr. There are three different springs, their temperatures being 112°, +114°, and 115° Fahrenheit, and their contents carbonates of lime, +magnesia, and iron, sulphate of soda, and some phosphates. Ordinary bath +with linen, 1½ fr. Opposite the establishment is a Roman arch, 3d cent., +with the inscription “Lucius Pompeius, Campanus, Vius fecit.” Behind the +arch is the chateau of the Marquis of Aix, now occupied by the Hôtel de +Ville and the post and telegraph offices. A handsome +284 + +stone stair of fifty-eight steps, under a quadripartite roof on round +columns, leads up to the various offices. At the top is the museum. On +the ground-floor, just beyond the foot of the stair, a door opens +into what is called the Temple of Diana, a large rectangular hall +of coarse masonry, recently restored. Adjoining are the Hotel de l’Arc +Romain, 9-12 frs., the parish church, and the park. The waters used for +drinking are the cold sulphur springs, situated a little way out of +town. + +Aix-les-Bains: Springs. +Excursions. + +The most powerful and peculiar is the spring at Challes, 900 ft. above the sea, and 45 min. +distant by omnibus from Chambery. _Hotels:_ Château de Challes; +Terrason; Ferret. It, like the others, is used for indigestion and liver +complaints, but especially for laryngeal affections. + +Nearly a mile from Aix by the Chambery road is the Marlioz mineral +water establishment, with hotel, furnished apartments, and villas, all +within a large park. The water is cold, sulphurous, and alkaline, with +bromine and iodine, and costs 10 c. the glass. About 20 min. walk from +the town by the Geneva road, near the village of St. Simon, is the Raphy +spring, frequently taken at meal-time and prescribed in certain gastric +diseases, dyspepsia, and nervous disorders of the stomach. + +Excursions from +Aix-les-Bains.—The steamer on certain days makes the tour +of the lake, stopping at the principal places, of which the chief is the +Abbey of Hautecombe; fare there and back, with small boat and two men, +9 frs. To Bordeaux and back, 5 frs.; Bonport, 4 frs.; +Châtillon, 14 frs. Arrange price beforehand. No boat permitted to carry +more than six passengers. An hour on shore allowed. Drive round the +lake—one horse, 11 frs.; two horses, 15 frs. + +The Abbey of Hautecombe was founded in the 12th cent., but rebuilt in +1745. The church, containing 300 statues and many frescoes, is 215 ft. +long, the transept 85 ft., and the height of the roof 34 ft. The +interior, as well as most of the mausoleums, is of a soft white +fine-grained magnesian limestone, from the quarries of Seyssel, near +Culoz. The best of the statues are those of Charles Felix, King of +Sardinia (died 1821), and of Marie Christine, his spouse (died 1849), on +the right and left hands of the nave at the entrance. They are of +Carrara marble. In the chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion, in the +right-hand transept, is another beautiful group in Carrara marble; in +the left transept is a wood figure of St. Joseph, well executed. + +About half a mile from the convent by a road following the shore of +the lake is an intermittent fountain, very irregular in its action. To +reach it continue the road till arriving at a clump of chestnut and +horse-chestnut trees, some having stone seats round the trunks. The +285 + +fountain is in the corner under the fourth tree. Near Hautecombe are the +village and castle of Bordeaux, founded in the 9th cent., over which +rises the Dent du Mont Chat (see +p. 282). + +_Other +Excursions._—To the S.W. the Colline de Tresserve, 1109 +ft., good views, chestnut trees, and the castle of Bonport. To the S.E. +the Roche du Roi, with quarries, which were worked by the Romans. The +Rocher de St. Victor, by the chestnut forest of Mouxy; there and back, 5 +hours. The mountains of the Grand-Revard and the Cluse, 5154 ft., by +mule-path; there and back, 6 hours. To the N. the cascade of Gresy, 45 +minutes, 3 m. Gresy, with its keep, 12th cent. 5 m., the +defile of the Combes and the Prime rocks. To the N.N.W. the Montagne de +Gigot, 2680 and 2762 ft. + +Grotto of Banges. Le Châtelard. + +Aix to the Grotto of +Banges, _by Gresy and Cusy._— Seat in car there and +back, 5 frs. About 3 m. from Aix is Gresy, with its pretty +waterfall. Beyond the village the road ascends by the stream Sierroz to +an undulating plain, on which is Cusy, 3½ hours from Aix. To the N., on +a rock rising from the Chéran, are the extensive ruins of a castle. On +the opposite bank are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette and the castle of +St. Jacques, and, rising abruptly from the valley, three singular +obelisks of rock. 2 hours from Cusy the Chéran is crossed by the Pont de +Banges, and not far from this bridge, where the road is hemmed in +between the rocks and the stream, is the entrance to the Grotte de +Banges, containing a lake, 216 ft. below the level of the entrance, +approached by a gallery 270 yards long, hung with stalactites. + +This road may be continued to Le Châtelard, 1¾ hour from the bridge, 2500 +ft. above the sea; _Inns:_ Des Beauges; De la Poste; pop. 950. This +is the capital of the “Pays des Beauges,” occupying a plateau 13 m. +long and 8 m. wide, traversed from S.E. to N.W. by the Chéran, and +surrounded by steep rocks. Cheese-making, the rearing of cattle, and the +manufacture of articles in wood form the industries of the inhabitants, +of whom there are 10,000. Châtelard, in its social and geographical +position, resembles Le +Beage (p. 84). + +The road from Aix to Chambery is through the broad valley which +separates the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse from those of the +Beauges. Belonging to the former are Mont Grelle, 4649 ft., to the S.W., +and Mont Granier, 6348 ft, due S.; while to the N.E. is the Dent de +Nivolet, 4597 ft, an advanced bastion of the Beauges. + +At Aix-les-Bains, junction with branch to Annecy, 26 m. N., +whence a diligence starts daily for Geneva, 27½ m. farther N. by +Brogny, Cruseilles, and St. Julien (see map, p. 27). + +286 + + +Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy and Annemasse, by rail. + +21½ m. by rail N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 3½ m. from Annecy, is +Lovagny, the station to +alight at to visit the “Galeries des Gorges” of the torrent Fier, about +10 minutes distant. From the station take the road to the left, cross a +bridge, and walk on to the châlet, where refreshments are sold, and +tickets, 1 fr. each, to visit the gorge, which is of the same +nature, though much superior, to the galleries of Pfäffers. The gallery, +or rather balcony, is 1162 ft. long, and on an average 72 ft. above the +torrent. It rests on iron brackets driven into the face of vertical +cliffs 310 ft. high, and on an average 8 ft. apart. + +3½ m. farther by rail is + +Annecy, pop. 11,000. +_Hotels:_ Angleterre, opposite the post office; Verdun, at the head +of the town, near the public gardens and the lake, and not far from the +steamboat-pier; Aigle; Savoie. + +The steamboat sails from the side of the public gardens opposite the +Convent of St. Joseph. It makes the tour of the lake three times daily. +Diligence daily to Bonneville, 23 m. N., passing the villages of +Plot and La Roche; also to Albertville, +28 m. N., on the road to Italy by the Little St. Bernard (see page +320). + +This ancient town, with narrow arcaded streets, is situated on the +north-west end of Lake Annecy. The two most prominent buildings in +Annecy, as seen from the lake, are the Barracks, and the Castle of +Tresun, in which St. François de Sales, the founder of the Order of the +Visitation, was born August 21, 1567. Opposite the steamboat-pier is +another prominent edifice, the Church and Convent of St. Joseph, both +modern, but containing, in the garden behind, the first chapel erected +by St. Francis, dating from 1610. The house Madame Chantale, his friend, +inhabited adjoins this chapel. + +The mortal remains of St. Francis are in a shrine above the high altar +in the Church of the Visitation, at the western side of the Rue Royale. +The house in which he resided is in No. 18 Rue St. Claire, entrance at +the left-hand corner within the court. The house in which Madame de +Warrens first received Rousseau stood in the parallel street, behind the +Rue de l’Évêché, on the site of that house next the Episcopal palace, +with railings in front. The best promenade is the garden around the +Hôtel de Ville at the head of the lake. It contains a statue by +Marochetti of the great French chemist, Claude Louis Berthollet, born at +Talloires in 1748. + +The Lake of Annecy is 9 m. long, 2 broad, and 1455 ft. above the +sea-level. It is surrounded by vine-clad and wooded mountains, of which +the highest is La Tournette, on the eastern shore, 6260 ft. above the +lake. To ascend it land at the village of Talloires, where there are a +comfortable inn, the Hôtel de l’Abbaye, and guides. + +Near the shore of the lake, on the side of a hill about 2 m. east +from Annecy, is the house in which Eugene Sué spent the last years of +his life. It is one-storied, with garret-windows, and behind a small +square tower. On the morning of August 1, 1857, he took his +287 + +last walk on the hill, returning from which fatigued he went to bed, and +died two days afterwards. The remains of Rousseau’s house are seen a +little farther south, above the village of Veyrier. + +Leschaux. Cruseilles + +South from Veyrier, also on the lake, is the village of Menthon, the +birthplace of St. Bernard, the founder, in the 10th cent., of the +hospices of the Great and the Little St. Bernard. He is buried on the +right-hand side of the choir in the cathedral of Lausanne. At the south +extremity of the lake is the village of Doussard, at the entrance into +the dark gorge of the Combe Noire. Here a coach awaits passengers for +Faverges and Albertville, 18 miles south from Doussard. In this +neighbourhood the best mountain to ascend for the view is Semnoz, 4148 +ft. above the lake. The ascent is made from the straggling village of +Leschaux, 1590 ft. above the lake, 10 m. S. from Annecy, and +14 m. N.E. from Aix-les-Bains. Donkeys can be hired at the village. +The ascent takes about 2 hrs. On the top is a comfortable inn. Duingt, +at the S.W. end, is the most picturesquely situated village on the lake. +(See map of Mt. Cenis, p. 291.) + +3 m. N. from Annecy and 24 m. S. from Geneva is the village of Brogny, +where, in 1342, Jean Allarmet the swineherd was born, who became +successively Bishop of Geneva, Viviers, and Ostia, Archbishop of Arles, +and then a Cardinal. From Brogny the road passes the Pont de la Caille, +18 m. from Geneva, a small village near the suspension bridge, +212 yds. long, across Les Usses, and 665 ft. above the bed of the +torrent. Higher up, in a ravine, are the baths of Caille. + +16½ m. from Geneva is Cruseilles, pop. 2000, and 2576 ft. above the +sea. The road from Cruseilles passes over the top of Mont Zion, 2586 +ft., and then descends to Chable. 10 m. farther is St. Julien, 1535 +ft., pop. 2500. French custom-house station, 6½ m. from Geneva. + +Chambery. + + +PARIS +MODANE +370¾ +60¼ +CHAMBERY, pop. 20,000, +and 815 ft. above the sea. Passengers arriving late should spend the +night at Chambery, and next morning proceed to Turin. +_Hotels._—Princes, in the Rue de Boigne, near the fountain. +France, on the Quai Nezin. In the Rue d’Italie, the Poste and Europe, +near the theatre. In the Rue de la Banque is the Banque; and opposite it +is the Temple Protestant. + +Chambery is situated in a plain surrounded by high mountains. +The first object that strikes the stranger on arriving from the station +is the monumental fountain to General Boigne in the Boulevard du +Theatre, opposite the termination of the principal street, the Rue de +Boigne. It consists of four bronze elephants supporting a column crowned +with a statue of the General. At the other extremity of the Rue de +Boigne is the Château, formerly the residence of the Dukes of +Savoy, built in 1230. The entrance is either by the stair in front or by +the road round from behind, which leads also to the Botanic Gardens. +Within the precincts of the château is the Préfecture, having +288 + +attached to it one of the old massive round towers, ascended by a most +handsome staircase of 160 low broad steps to within a short distance of +the top, attained by 36 more steps in two short flights. In the stair is +the entrance to the Museum, chiefly archæological. The Natural History +Museum is in the Botanic Garden. The view from the top of the tower is +very pleasing, and overlooks the whole of the town. Fee, ½ fr. Opposite +the tower is the Chapel of the Dukes of Savoy, 14th cent. Fee, ½ fr. The +three tall windows are filled with beautiful old glass. The roof is +covered with stone groining, with cleverly-executed arabesque painting +between the nervures. The roof of the cathedral is similarly painted, +but on a blue ground. It is situated near the Rue de Boigne, and was +built in the 14th, 15th, and 16th cents. + +Chambery: Church of Lemenc. J. J. Rousseau. + +The Rue de Bourgogne, the second street to the right up the Rue de +Boigne, leads past the Hôtel de Ville and the post office to the Palais +de Justice, with the Jardin Public behind. In front of the Palais is a +bronze statue of the jurist, Antoine Favre, who died 1624. On a hill on +the other or eastern side of the railway are the Convent de la +Visitation and the Church of Lemenc. The upper church +of Lemenc is of the 13th or 14th cent., but the under church or crypt is +of the 7th cent. In the centre of the crypt is a curious baptistery, six +feet in diameter, under a peristyle. Beside it is an Entombment. In the +upper Church are the mausoleum of General Boigne and the relics of Saint +Concors, an Irish archbishop from Armagh, who died here 600 years ago. +His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children. +In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave of +Madame de Warrens. + +Excursions.—The house which Jean +Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on the height called the Charmettes, 395 +ft. above and 2 m. from Chambery by a pleasant road shaded with +walnut and plane trees. It is a mere cottage. The room to the right on +entering was the dining-room. It contains in a drawer his watch, +opposite the window his bookcase, and hanging on the walls, facing each +other, the portraits of himself and of Madame de Warrens. The next room +was their sitting-room; here are his card-table and mirror. The room +above was madame’s bedroom, and the one over the dining-room Rousseau’s. +From the garden the view extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft., +ascended from Chambery in between 5 and 6 hrs.; guide advisable. View +not equal to that from the Dent du Chat +(p. 282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the foot of the +Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge of the Doria +may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45 min. to the cold +sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of Challes +(p. 284). + +289 + + + +PARIS +MODANE +376 +55 +LES MARCHES, a +straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by the chapel and image +of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S.W., 4 hrs. there and back, are the +Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed by a partial +landslip of Mt. Granier. + + +PARIS +MODANE +378 +53 +MONTMÉLIAN, +pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Voyageurs. Junction with line to Grenoble, for +which change carriages (p. 338). + +St. Pierre d’Albigny. Aiguebelle. + + +PARIS +MODANE +358¼ +45¾ +ST. PIERRE +D’ALBIGNY, 971 ft. (map, p. 291), +pop. 3300, 1½ m. from its station. _Inns:_ At station: +H. des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche; Soleil. Junction with +line to Albertville, 14 m. N.E., whence diligences to Annecy, +28 m. N., passing close by Ugine, 1755 ft., and through Faverges; +_Inn:_ Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice on +the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpine +passes (see p. 321). From St. +Pierre take the N. window of the carriage to have a proper view of the +immense cones and pinnacles of calcareous rocks, which tower in many +places almost vertically above each other. These lofty walls afford +protection from the chilling blasts to the pretty villages, vineyards, +orchards, and maize fields; which places only at a little distance from +these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyards cease a little above St. Michel, +2400 ft., but patches with vines may be seen within 3 m. of La +Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivated more or less in +terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are too steep and +arid. + + +PARIS +MODANE +332 +39 +AIGUEBELLE, pop. +1100. H. de la Poste. Village close to station. Arch to Charles +Felix. The valley now begins to widen. + + +PARIS +MODANE +409 +22 +LA CHAMBRE, pop. +800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc. Afterwards, to the +right, is the valley of the Glandon. + + +PARIS +MODANE +414½ +16½ +SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE, pop. 3200. +_Inns:_ Europe; Cheval Blanc; Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in +the 15th cent., contains the mausoleum of Count Humbert, and some +beautifully carved stalls. The arcades of the cloister are of alabaster, +and were constructed in 1452. In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous +mines of Rocheray and the saline thermal springs of Echaillon. + + +PARIS +MODANE +421 +10 +ST. MICHEL, pop. 3000. +A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. above the sea-level, in a hollow at the +foot of high mountains. _Inn:_ Poste, near the post office. From +St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The next station is La Praz, +6 m. from St. Michel, 3140 ft. above the sea. + +290 + + +Modane. + + +PARIS +431 +MODANE STATION, 3445 ft. +above the sea, and 727 m. from London, is really part of the +village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up, and the train +passes through it on the way to the tunnel. Large refreshment-room at +station. Opposite station—_Inn:_ Hôtel International, where +comfortable lodgings can be had, as well as carriages to visit the +neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back of the house. There are +also several restaurants. Luggage from France and Italy is examined +here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage is charged. The scenery +on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful, and the traveller +ought to endeavour to pass through it during the day. +The passage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no +part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. above the station, and is +reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10 m., with a gradient of 2½ +per cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. above the sea, and +5250 ft. below the summit of the ridge perforated. + +From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. higher than +Modane, in 7½ hrs., by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs., or a +little over 5, by Bardonnecchia. + + +Lans-le-Bourg. Les Tavernettes. + +Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis. + +From Modane a carriage-road leads over the Pass of Mont Cenis to Susa, 40 m. distant +by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the Arc up the valley is +Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by his doctor. Near this +are passed the forts Esseillon or Bramans, connected with the road by a +steep winding path. 8¾ m. from Modane is Le Verney, where the road +crosses the Arc; 10¾ m. Solliers; to the left, the valley of the +Laisse or Doron; 16¾, Termignon, pop. 1080, and 4251 ft. above the sea, +at the confluence of the Laisse with the Arc, church with frescoes and a +curious belfry; 18 m. Lans-le-Bourg, pop. 1500, consisting +principally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560 ft. above the sea, at the +base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc the ascent of the Pass is +commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are twenty-three houses of refuge. +At the culminating point, 6882 ft. above the sea, is the inn Ramasse. +The road now descends. 13 m. from Susa and 27 from Modane is +Les +Tavernettes, on a terrace 200 ft. above the lake, which is +1¼ m. long and 6234 ft. high, and contains good trout. This is one +of the best headquarters in the Alps for a naturalist. 10 m. from +Susa and 29½ m. from Modane is the Hospice of Mont Cenis, on the +great plateau. 2 m. farther is the hamlet of La Grande Croix, 6069 +ft., on the edge of the plateau, and whence the descent becomes more +rapid. 4½ m. from Susa is the post-house of Molaret, and about +3 m. more, or 1¼ from Susa, the hamlet of Giaglione, with splendid +views and rich vegetation (Susa, see page +291). + + +MONT CENIS RAILWAY +St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard. +modane to susa by langlebourg + + +opp. 291 +see caption + + +291 + + + +PART II.—MODANE TO TURIN. + +See Map of Mont Cenis Railway. + + +TURIN +58½ +MODANE. At Modane passengers enter the carriages of the Alta +Italia Railway Company. +The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best +time-table for Italy is the “Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate,” +1 fr.; also a smaller edition, 20 c., sold at all the railway +stations. Waiting-room is Sala d’Aspetto. W.-C’s., Cessi, or Latrine, or +Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking carriages, Pei +fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, E vietato il fumare. Way out, +Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata. + + +MODANE +TURIN +5 +53½ +BARDONNECCHIA, +4127 ft., pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo della Stazione, and in +the town the Hôtel de France. +Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile +country than that above Modane. + + +MODANE +TURIN +12 +46½ +OULX, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft. +high. _Inn:_ Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, at the station. +At this pretty little village the road from Briançon, 17 m. S.W. by +Mont Genèvre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte +Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius, +who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before the +beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, _Hist. Nat._, lib. iii. cap. +20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the road +from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now Embrun, on the Durance (see page 343). + + +MODANE +TURIN +21¾ +36¾ +CHIOMONTE, 2526 ft. +Beyond are some charming views. + + +MODANE +TURIN +25½ +33 +MEANA, 1 m. from Susa, and 325 +ft. above it. The train, having traversed beautiful chestnut woods, +crosses the Dora and arrives at Bussoleno, 30½ m. from Modane, +whence a loop-line of 5 m. extends to Susa, 1625 ft., pop. 5000. _Hotels:_ France; +Soleil. +This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who +inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft. +above the sea. On the W. side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch +erected about 8 b.c. in honour of +Augustus. It is adorned with Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes +on the entablature, but all are in a decayed condition. The cathedral, +San Giusto, dates from the llth cent. + +12 m. from Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the +foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. above the sea and 1500 above the +plain. On the summit is the convent of S. Michele della Chiusa, +founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially +repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II. The government +intend to establish a meteorological station here. A good mule-path +leads to the top in about an hour, passing the village of +S. Pietro, with a good inn, 2617 ft. above the sea. + + +opp. 293 +plan of Turin + +292 + + +TURIN, + +pop. 264,000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. above the sea, +and 490 m. S.E. from Paris. The city derives its name from the +tribe Taurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the +Romans. When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city, +that he might have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen +speedily from its ruins, it received within its walls the army of +reserve of Julius Cæsar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the +Lombards it was made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite +residence of Queen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of +S. Giovanni Battista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in +1498. Francis I. so damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire +reconstruction became necessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well +paved, and pass through spacious squares ornamented with statues and +bordered by handsome arcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the +western end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. and the streets +ramifying southwards from this. + +_Hotels._—The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello. +In the same square, and less expensive, is the H. di Londra. This +piazza is in the neighbourhood of the principal sights, and is the +terminus of the most important trams. The other first-class houses are: +the *Torino, opposite the arrival side of the station. The *Liguria, 14 +Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the Via Carlo Alberto. Their new house is +at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near the English chapel and the Vaudois +church. The Liguria is patronised by Messrs. Cook. The H. Feder, 8 +Via S. Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29 Via Roma, the Angleterre; +and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Via delle Finanze; Bonne Femme +(Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive: H. *Suisse; +H. Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *France et +Concorde, Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via di Po; +Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the Dogana +Vecchia, 4 Via Corte d’Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via +Lagrange. + +_Cabs._—One +horse, from 6 a.m. till midnight, the +course, 1 fr. First half-hour, 1 fr. First hour, 1½ fr. Each +successive half-hour, 75 c. The course from midnight to 6 a.m., 1¼ fr. From the central station to any part of +the town, 1¼ fr. Trunks, 20 c. each. Cabs with 2 horses, ½ fr. +additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to a +cab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railway +carriage, 1 sou. + +Horse-trams traverse Turin in every direction; while the steam-trams +293 + +run from the city to the towns and villages not only within but beyond +the suburbs. The fare of the horse-trams is universally 2 sous; that of +the steam-trams from 12 sous to 3 frs. 18 sous. In the horse-trams +no more than four may occupy one seat. + +Turin: Stations. + +_Stations._—The most important is the +Central Station, a well-situated and well-arranged and +spacious edifice. On a tablet on the departure side is an inscription to +the honour of George and Robert Stephenson. Parallel to the station is +the wide and handsome Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which traverses the city +from east to west, having at the eastern end the Po and the Giardino +Pubblico, and at the western the model prison, the Carcere giudiziario, +the artillery barracks, and the cattle-market. In front of the station +is a bronze statue of Massimo d’Azeglio, a poet and painter, who +died in 1866, one of those who helped to throw off the yoke of Rome. +Behind the statue is the garden or Piazza Carlo Felice, and the straight +street, the Via Roma, extending to the Piazza Castello, by the Piazza +S. Carlo, with, in the centre, a bronze equestrian statue, +modelled by Marochetti in 1838, of Emanuele Filiberto, Duke of Savoy, +and son of Carlo III. il Buono. He died in 1580. The attitude is +rather theatrical. The station for Rivoli, at the west end of the Piazza +dello Statuto, communicates with the P. Castello by the Via +Garibaldi. The Cirié Lanzo station is on the Dora, N. side of plan, at +the Ponte-Mosca. Opposite the Rivoli station, in the Piazza dello +Statuto, is a monument to the engineers of Mt. Cenis tunnel, in the +shape of a pyramid, 60 ft. high, composed of huge blocks of unhewn +granite, up which scramble discomfited, colossal, naked Titans in white +marble. On the pinnacle stands the Genius of Science, of a slighter +make, and on a tablet the names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni, +and Grandi. + +Turin: Post Office. Booksellers. + +_Post and telegraph +offices_ are in the Piazza Carlo Alberto, by the side of the +Palazzo Carignano (p. 297). +Stamps are sold at all the tobacco shops. This piazza is close to the +P. Castello, and connected with the Via di Po by a lofty arcade, +covered with glass, and bordered on both sides with well-stocked +shops. + +_Booksellers._—For maps of Italy, +Carlo Crespi, 2 Via Lagrange. For guide-books, Loescher and Brero, both +in the Via di Po. + +Money-changers in the central railway station and in the principal +streets. In the main streets are also elegant Cafés, where the charge in +all of them for a good cup of coffee with a piece of ice is 6 sous. The +same price for an excellent ice cream heaped up in a glass. + +_Theatres._—See list on plan. A short +way east from the central +294 + +station, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the Vaudois church, built in +1853. Adjoining are the Vaudois schools, and behind, at 15 Via Pio +Quinto, the Anglican chapel. Near the chapel is the synagogue, +a handsome edifice with square towers crowned with balloon-like +cupolas. + +Turin: Sights. + +_Sights._—The museums and picture gallery +(Pinacoteca) in the “Accademia delle Scienze,” with one side to the +Piazza Carignano and another to the Via dell’ Accademia delle Scienze. +Nearly opposite is the Palazzo Carignano, containing the zoological and +mineralogical collections. The white marble statue in front represents +the philosopher, Vincenzo Gioberti, born 5th April 1801 in the house +opposite, 5 Via Lagrange, where a white marble tablet states: “II Conte +Camillo di Cavour naque in questa casa, addi 10 Agosto 1810. E vi +mori il 6 Giugno 1861.” The armoury, enter by door headed “Reale Armeria +Antica” under corridor, 13 Piazza Castello; adjoining is the Royal +Palace. On the other side of the palace is the cathedral, San Giovanni. +A walk down the Via di Po. Several drives in the horsetrams. All +the above places are near each other, around the Piazza Castello. The +only one that is at a little distance is the Museo Civico, up the side +street, V. Rossini, from the Via di Po. The Superga, by steam tram +from the Piazza Castello. + +Turin: Palazzo dell’ Accademia. Museum of Antiquities. + +The Museum of Antiquities and the Picture Gallery. + +The Palazzo dell’ Accademia delle Scienze, designed by Guarini, was +built in 1678 as a college for the sons of noblemen. It is a vast +earthy-coloured brick edifice, of which the ornaments, mouldings, and +cornices are also of dingy brick. On the ground-floor are the more +massive, and in the first story the smaller antiquities. In the second +story is the picture gallery, containing about 800 paintings in fifteen +rooms. Open daily from 9 to 4, 1 fr. On Sundays and feast-days +free, when it is open from 12 to 4. The large antiquities are contained +in two halls. Hall 1. Left. In the centre, against the wall, +under an inscription in honour of the Egyptologist Champollion, is the +gem of the collection, a black basalt statue of Sesostris, +Rameses II., 1388 b.c. On his +right, in rose-coloured granite, is the colossal statue of +Amenophis II., 1565 b.c., and on +his left a small black basalt statue of Amenophis II., the god +Ptah. Opposite are three figures in a sitting posture, representing the +Egyptian Trinity, Osiris, Horus, and Isis. At the head of this hall is +the colossal red sandstone statue of Seti II., in whose reign the +exodus of the Israelites took place. From +295 + +this a room ramifies at right angles, containing Greek and Roman +statues, busts, friezes, vases, etc. + +Parallel to Hall 1 is Hall 2. At the head of this hall, in a +sitting posture, is the black basalt statue of Thothmes III., 1591 b.c., who was one of the most powerful of +the Pharaohs. + +Upstairs, first floor, are the smaller antiquities, contained in +three large halls and several rooms. Near the centre of the first hall, +left, is the oldest of all the articles in the museum, the pedestal of a +table covered with hieroglyphics, supposed to have been made about 2654 +b.c. A little farther down, in +the centre of the hall, under a glass case, No. 13, is the Tabula +Isiaca, a bronze tablet, 4 ft. long by 2 ft. 2 in. wide, inlaid +with hieroglyphics in silver, made at Rome in the reign of Hadrian. +Exactly opposite this tablet commences the passage that leads to the +smaller rooms. In the first room, left, in the corner, is a colossal +bust of Juno, hollowed, that the priest might the more easily work the +oracle. In the first room, right, is a mosaic pavement, found at +Stampacci in Sardinia. The rooms contain besides Phoenician terracotta +figures, Etruscan vases, statuettes, urns, reliefs, ancient iron +ornaments, lamps, etc. + +The Centre Hall contains idols, jewellery, amulets, +sarcophagi, mummies, Egyptian heads with the hair on, and bricks made by +the Israelites. + +In the Third Hall are the Papyri, of which the most important +are: No. 4, near centre, against left wall, in second row, The Book +of the Dead, 35 ft. long and 8 in. wide, illustrated with plain +vignettes. Opposite, in centre of hall, is 126, fragments of the famous +annals of Manetho, which contained a list of more than 300 kings +of Egypt down to the 19th dynasty. + +Turin: Picture Gallery. + +In the second story is the Picture Gallery. All the paintings are +labelled. In Room 1 are portraits of princes of the house of +Savoy, and battles in which they were engaged. Room 2. In this +room are excellent specimens of the Turin painter, Gaudenzio Ferrari, +No. 49, St. Peter and Donor; 52, Madonna and St. Elizabeth; 53, God; 54, +Descent from Cross; 57, Joachim driven from the Temple. Rooms 3 +and 4. Italian pictures, Massimo d’Azeglio, another Turin +painter, 90, a Landscape. Room 5. Italian paintings of the +14th, 15th, and 16th cents.: Clovio, 127 bis, an Entombment, painted on +silk; Bronzino, 127 and 128, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her +husband, Cosimo I. de Medici. Room 6. J. da Ponte (II +Bassano), 148, Portrait; P. Caliari (Paolo Veronese), 157, Queen of +Sheba presenting +296 + +gifts to Solomon; A. Carracci, 158, St. Peter; Caravaggio, 161, +Musician; J. Robusti (Il Tintoretto), 162, The Trinity. Room +7. Guido Reni, 163, S. Giovanni; Spagnoletto, 174, St. Jerome. +Room 8. Enamels and paintings on porcelain by Constantin of +Geneva. Room 9. A small room entirely filled with fruit and +flower pieces by Dutch artists. Between rooms 9 and 10 is a dark lobby, +hung also with pictures. Room 10. Continuation of the Italian +school, 16th, 17th, and 18th cents.: B. Strozzi, 232, Portrait of +Prelate; 251, Homer singing his own Songs; Paolo Veronese, 234, Mary +Magdalene at our Lord’s Feet; Guido Reni, 235, Apollo; 236, Cupids; +G. Dughet (Poussin), 237, 238, Tivoli Waterfalls; G. F. +Barbieri (Il Guercino), 239, 262, *S. Francesca Romana, and in next +room, Return of Prodigal Son. Room 11. A. Canale (Il +Canaletto), 257 bis, Ducal Palace, Venice; F. Albani, 260, 264, +271, and 274, The Four Elements; S. Ricci, 272, Hagar sent away; +275, Solomon burns the Idols; C. Dolce, 276, Head of Madonna; +B. Bellotto, 283, 288, Royal Palace, Turin; Old Bridge across the +Po. Room 12. Flemish and German school: Acken (Bosch), 309, an +Adoration; G. Van Eyck, 313, St. Francis; Rogier Van des Weyden, +312, *Madonna; F. Franck, 335, Room with Ladies and Gentlemen; Van +Dyck, 338, 351, The three Children of Charles I. of England; *The +Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain; Rubens, 340, Sketch of his apotheosis +of Henri IV. in the Uffici of Florence. Room 13. Containing the +gems of the collection: A. Mantegna, 355, Virgin, Child, and +Saints; L. Credi, 356, *Virgin and Child; G. F. Barbieri +(Guercino), 357, *Virgin and Child; Hans Memling, 358, *The Seven +Sorrows of the Woman Mary; Saenredam, 361, *Interior of a Protestant +Church, the figures by A. Ostade; Van Dyck, 363, *Large equestrian +portrait of the Principe Tommaso di Savoia; his finest work is **384, +Holy Family; D. Teniers, 364, Tavern; G. Ferrari, 371, Jesus +giving up the Ghost; Raphael, 373, *La Madonna della Tenda; Donatello, +375, Virgin and child in relief on marble; Sodoma, 376, *Death of +Lucretia; P. Potter, 377, *Cattle grazing in a meadow; +H. Holbein, 386, Portrait of Erasmus. Room 14. Dutch and +German school: Picture by Jordaens; Sallaert, 398, Procession in +Brussels; Floris, 410, Adoration; P. P. Rubens, 416, Resurrection +of Lazarus; C. Vos, 417, Portraits of Snyders and his wife; Teniers +(the younger), 423, Card Players; Schalcken, 458, Old Woman. Room +15. French school: C. Gélée (Claude Lorrain), 478, 483, +Landscapes; I. Courtois (Bourguignon), 481, Cavalry Charge. +Catalogues sold of the contents of the museums and picture gallery. + +297 + + +Palazzo Carignano. Royal Armoury. + +Museum of Zoology and Mineralogy. + +Opposite the Palazzo dell’ Accademia, but a little to the left, is +the Palazzo Carignano, also by Guarini, and also of earthy-coloured +brick; but the decorations are superior, more varied, and more pleasing +than those of the Palazzo dell’ Accademia. In large gilt letters, on the +façade fronting the Piazza Carignano and the statue of Gioberti, are the +words, “Qui nacque Vittorio Emanuele II.” Within is a high and +spacious court, surrounded by lofty halls, and at the east end, fronting +the Piazza Carlo Alberto, with the beautiful bronze monument to him by +Marochetti, cast in London, is the more pretentious stone façade, built +in 1871, but not in harmony with the rest of the building. (See also +p. 293.) In this palace, magnificently +housed, are the zoological and mineralogical collections. Open daily, +1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free. + +Royal Armoury. + +No. 13 Palazzo Castello, open on feast-days from 11 to 3 free. +On other days procure admission from the secretary. This collection is +of great interest only to the inhabitants of northern Italy, as it is +filled chiefly with relics of their kings, dukes, and wars. In the first +room is “Favorito,” the favourite horse of the magnanimous Ré, Carlo +Alberto. Above it, near the roof, are numerous tattered flags taken in +battle. In the large hall are two rows of armed knights and +foot-soldiers. At the head of this hall, in a glass case, numbered 301, +is an embossed oval shield, inlaid with gilding, and surrounded by a +fringe of massive gold thread. On five medallions are represented, in +_alto-relievo_, scenes from the war of Marius against Jugurtha. It +belongs to the school of Giulio Romano, was executed probably in the +latter half of the 16th cent., and was presented to the university of +Turin by the Princess Vittoria di Sassonia Hilburghausen. Among the +relics are the sword worn by Napoleon at the battle of Marengo, the +saddle of Charles V., and some beautifully inlaid body-armour of +the Dukes of Savoy. The large door at the end of this hall opens into +the “Medagliere del Ré,” containing 30,000 Greek, Roman and ancient +coins and medals, including a complete series of those struck in the +State of Sardinia; and also 5000 medallions, seals and stamps. In this +same part is the Biblioteca del Ré, with 40,000 vols., 1800 MSS., +numerous autographs, engravings and drawings by the great masters. To +visit these special permission must be obtained. From the windows of the +armoury is a view of the palace-gardens. +298 + +At the N.E. angle of the Piazza Castello is the Teatro Regio, considered +the finest work of Benedetto Alfieri. It is seated for 2500, and is open +only during carnival and on extraordinary occasions. +Turin: Royal Palace. +In the absence of the royal family the palace may be visited. It is a +plain brick building, commenced in 1646, with the front to the Piazza +Castello, plastered to imitate stone. Having passed the main entrance, +turn to the left. At the end of this corridor is seen, through a glass +door, the equestrian statue of Vittorio Amadeo I. (died 1675) in a +niche at the foot of the grand staircase. The rider is in bronze, the +horse in marble. Ascend the marble steps, then, to the right, two +flights of narrow steps lead to the hall of the palace, where the +servants will be found who show the palace. Fee, 1 fr.; party, +2 frs. After the guardroom succeeds a series of rooms with much +gilding, inlaid floors, and rich furniture. The pictures are all modern, +and of no great merit. The room called Maria Theresa’s contains some +fine china vases. + +Turin: The Cathedral. + +The Cathedral. + +Adjoining the western end of the palace is the Cathedral San +Giovanni Battista. To the left of the altar is the pew of the royal +family. Behind the altar, and approached by two staircases of 37 steps +each, is the Cappella del Sudario (open till 9 a.m.), a circular chapel, separated from the +church by a glass screen. It was built by Guarini in 1694, and is +encrusted with the dark grayish-blue marble from Fabrosa, near Mondovi, +which brings out in striking relief the pure white of the statues and +the rich gilding of the ornaments, cornices, capitals, and eight-limbed +stars which spangle the interior. Double monolith columns of the same +dark marble, with bronze pedestals and capitals, support six arches +ornamented with diaper-work on the soffits. Above them rise six smaller +arches containing the windows, while the dome or cupola is composed of +an intricate series of interlacing zigzag arched ribs rising from the +second tier, and intermingled with loopholes, which throw light in such +a manner upon the star at the summit as to give it the appearance of +being suspended. The beautiful altar, lighted with gold and silver +lamps, has two faces, so that two masses are said before it at the same +time. The shrine on this altar is said to contain the shroud (Sudario) +in which Joseph of Arimathea wrapped the body of our Lord when he laid +Him in the tomb. Round the chapel are the beautiful white marble +monuments of three kings of the house of Savoy—Em. Filiberto (ob. +1580), by Marchesi; Carlo Emanuele II. (ob. 1675), by Fraccaroli; +and Amedeo VIII., first Duke of Savoy (ob. +299 + +1451), by Cacciatori. One prince, the Principe Tommaso (ob. 1656), by +Gaggini. In a sitting posture is the lovely statue of Queen Maria +Adelaide, consort of Vit. Em. II. (ob. 1855), by Revelli. The door +behind the altar communicates with the upper corridors of the palace. +Outside the palace gates is San Lorenzo, designed by Guarini, and +finished in 1687. The interior is gorgeous, but it is chiefly +distinguished for the boldness of its arches. + + +Turin: The Castello. Museo Civico. + +The Castello. + +The large brick building in the centre of the Piazza Castello was +erected in the 13th century, and called the Castello till 1718, when it +became the favourite residence of the widow of Carlo Emanuele II., +Madama M. G. Battista, who built the stone façade, and in honour of +whom it has ever since been called the Palazzo Madama. Before the seat +of government was removed to Florence the senators assembled in the +great hall of this palace. One of the towers is used as an observatory, +and another part of the palace by the “Accademia reale di Medicina,” who +here hold their meetings, and have also a museum of craniology. + + +Museo Civico. + +Via Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, near the Via di Po. Open from 12 to 3, +1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free. First room, autographs and MSS. +of celebrated Piedmontese. 2. Water-colours, representing +landscapes and historical scenes in Piedmont. Under glass frame is a +solid oblong chased silver vase, 3 ft. and some inches in its greater +diameter, and 2 ft. 8 inches in its smaller. At each of the two long +ends is a lion’s head with a ring in his mouth. Near this vase, and also +under a glass frame, and also in solid silver, are two candelabra, +a vase, and two flower-holders adorned with figures in relief. The +first was presented in 1871 by the English Government, and the other by +that of the United States to the Count Frederic Sclopis, President of +the Geneva arbitration in the Alabama question, and given to this +institution by his widow. None of them display much art; as for the +English vase, it needs only a lid to turn it into a respectable +soup-tureen. + +The rooms from 4 to 11 contain modern oil-paintings, +some very good, and all labelled. Down the centre are white marble +statues; among the best are Eve and the Serpent by Fantacchiotti, and +the Crucifixion of Eulalia by E. Franceschi. Second +story.—Room 12, Embroidery; 13, Miniatures and +illustrated MSS.; 14, Iron work; 15, Carving in wood and +ivory—notice 947, Judgment of Solomon; 16, Glass and +300 + +majolica; 17, Italian porcelain; 18, Busts; 19, +Small oil-paintings and uniform of Azeglio; *20, Italian painted +glass from 1300; 21, Egyptian pottery; 22, Pottery and +stone age. + + +Turin: Via di Po. University. Madre di Dio. + +The Via di Po. + +The finest of the streets is the Via di Po, which extends from +the Piazza Castello to the great rectangular square, the Piazza Vittorio +Emanuele, on the bank of the Po; and as both of these spacious squares, +as well as this magnificent street, are lined throughout with wide and +lofty arcades, they form together an excellent and interesting walk in +all weathers. The Via di Po is 768 yards long and 19½ wide, and the +pavement within the arcade 6½ yards wide. Good shops are ranged on both +sides of the street under the arcades. In the Via di Po is also the +University, +built in 1713 by Vittorio Amedeo II., but founded in 1404 by the +Prince Lodovico di Acaia. It is attended by 2500 students, and directed +by 70 professors. The Library, open every day from 9 to 4, contains +200,000 volumes and 3000 MSS. In the court are Roman bas-reliefs, +inscriptions, and statues, ancient and modern. Between the Via di Po and +the Piazza Carlo Emanuele ramifies the Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, +containing at No. 6 the Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti. Open +daily. Apply to the custodi. + +The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele is 394 yards +long and 121½ wide. In front, on the other side of the Po, is a +conspicuous church, the Gran Madre di Dio, built in 1818, in the +style of the Pantheon at Rome, by Bansignori, to commemorate the return +of Vittorio Emanuele I. to Turin after the fall of Napoleon. +A little to the right on a hill (Il Monte) is a Capuchin convent, +built towards the end of the 16th cent. The road up is very easy, and +the view from the terrace admirable. Immediately above the Madre di Dio +church is the palace, La Vigna della Regina, built by Prince Maurice of +Savoy, which after his time was inhabited by one of the queens of +Sardinia, from whom it acquired its present name, “The Queen’s +Vineyard.” It is now a government school for the education of children +of military men. Up the river, beyond the suspension bridge, is the +Castello del Valentino, distinguished from a distance by its four +pavilions with high-pitched roofs. It was built by the widow of Victor +Amadeus I., daughter of Henri IV. of France, and is now used as a +government school of civil engineering. It contains a good collection of +minerals, the larger part of which, obtained from Sardinian provinces, +are topographically arranged. The Botanical Garden belonging to +the university is also here. + +301 + + +Turin: Monument to Cavour. + +Monuments. + +In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., a short way S. from Piazza +Castello, is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupré of Florence, for +which he received £1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of +Italy in 1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes +in bronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic. +Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing the +words, “libera chiesa in libero stato.” (See p. 294.) The climate of Turin is more suitable for +bronze than for marble statues. To the west is the Piazza S. Carlo, +with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto (see p. 293). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is +the remarkable, almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di +Savoia (brother of V. Emanuele II.) at the battle of Novara in +1848. When about to lead the charge on the Bicocca his horse fell, +mortally wounded. The poor animal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth +and outstretched neck, seems about to breathe its last in an agony of +suffering. + +A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta +is the Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo di +Citta, or the Municipality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erected +in 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of the +celebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King Victor +Emanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano and +Victor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze group +representing Count Verde (Amadeus VI.) over a fallen Saracen. Close +to this square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior +encrusted with beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and +gilding. From this the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em. +Filiberto, passing by on the left S. Domenico, and on the right the +Basilica. In S. Domenico, in the first chapel to the right of the +altar, is a picture of the Virgin by Guercino. + +Turin: La Consolata. Cemetery. + +Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church +La +Consolata, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of three +churches built at different periods. On the principal altar is a +miracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoining +walls is hung with pictures illustrating the cures and deliverances +effected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most precious +Carrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively Maria +Theresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit. +Emanuele, +302 + +dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attended worship +every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In the square +outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erected in +fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835. + +In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72 +ft. high, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of the +ecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the towns +which contributed to the monument. + +Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the cemetery or Campo Santo of +Turin. (See N.E. corner of plan.) It is badly kept and not worth +visiting. The inner or new part is a little better. + +A little to the W. of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is the +citadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is the +monument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, sprang +a mine at the cost of his own life. + + +Turin: La Superga. + +La Superga. + +Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; the +time-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold half +an hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number, +the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tram +runs down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. Emanuele I., passes by +the western end of the church, the “Great Mother of God,” and descends +by the left side of the Po to the Cassale station, whence the ascent +commences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, and +opened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards, +the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Superga +station are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodious +restaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand, +for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it is +probable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on the +main road to Turin. + +The Superga is situated 4½ m. N.E. from Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft. +above the Po, or 2146 ft. above the sea, and cost £100,000. It was +commenced by Vittorio Amedeo II. in 1717, and finished in 1731, to +fulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over the +French at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained the +duchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara. + +Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will +be +303 + +found who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The first +hall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes. +Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a white +marble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments are +worthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, Carlo +Alberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo Emanuele III., +1701-1773; towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, a colossal +white marble statue; at left end, Vittorio Amedeo II., the founder, +1666-1732. In an adjoining vault children under seven are buried. + +From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the gallery +outside the lantern. A door about 80 steps up opens into the +gallery round the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is +well seen. The top of the lantern is 229½ ft. above the pavement of the +church. + +Turin: Views. Lamprede. Wines. + +The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from +the outside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain of +Piedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon is +bounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side and +Mont Blanc on the other. + +Among the delicacies of Turin are the lamprede, thin eels from 5 to 8 inches long, caught +in the Po. They are killed by being plunged into milk. The white +truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked “à la Piedmontese” or “à +la fonduta,” and taken with a bottle of Asti wine, make most enjoyable +dishes. The vermouth of +Turin is an agreeable aperitive, and is taken before sitting down to +table. The best wines of Piedmont are the Caluzo, a white wine; the +Barolo, a dryish red wine with a taste of the soil; the Barbera, +a strong red wine; and the Nebrolo. The Gressini are double baked +bread in strips 18 inches long and a quarter of an inch thick. In the +Italian houses a handful of them is put down to each cover at the +dinner-table. They are made at very many places besides Turin; even at +Cannes on the Riviera. A great deal of maccheroni (macaroni) is +consumed in Italy. In Turin are important silk mills. + +Turin to Cuneo, 54¾ m. S., by Cavallermaggiore (see p. 153). Turin to Genoa, +103¼ m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p. 279). +Turin to +Savona, 91¼ m. S.E., by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see +p. 183, and map +p. 27). Turin to Florence, +291 m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, +Bologna, and Pistoja (see p. 309, and map p. 199). + + +THE WALDENSIAN VALLEYS +and the Passes between France and Italy. + +opp. 304 +[Northwest] _See map, page 291._ +[West] _For continuation of the French Waldensian Valleys see map, page 326._ +see caption +_For S. continuation see map, page 103._ + + +304 + + +THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR +THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES. + + +(See accompanying Map.) + +The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendid +trout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants. + +The chief town, Torre-Pèllice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34¼ +miles S.W. from Turin by rail, passing by Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W. +from Turin, and 10¾ m. N.E. from Torre-Pèllice. From Pinerolo a +steam tram runs 12 m. N.W. up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa, +the second Waldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram +station is near the railway station. + +Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S., +2 frs. 15 c. and 1 fr. 55 c., passing Osasco and Cavour. This +tram station is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station. + +The Italian steam +trams run on single lines laid on one side only of the highroads. +Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt. They afford +excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but run neither so +quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains. + +Rail between Cuneo and Mondoví, 11½ m. E. and 58 m. S. by rail +from Turin. Mondoví, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero; _Inn:_ Tré Limoni +d’Oro. On one side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the +other are the inn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill +rising from the river. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On +the top of the hill is another town nearly as large as Mondoví (see +p. 184). + +The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys +of Pèllice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20 m. long +from W. to E. by 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of the +isolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25,000. +They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848 +procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses were +confined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spread +themselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every year +to the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactories +have been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influx +of Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages which +up to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now a +larger population of Romanists. + +These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize, +wheat, barley, potatoes, French beans, etc., intersected by long rows +305 + +of vines on high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach, +apple, pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-wooded +mountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The only +high mountain in the territory is Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., between +the valleys of the Pèllice and the Po, which river has its source 6625 +ft. above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12,607 ft., +a short way south from Monte Meidassa by either the Col dell’ +Agnello or the Col Traversette, 9680 ft. + +Waldensian Doctrines and +Persecutions. + +The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. side +of the Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on the +French side (pp. 344, 345), and, as +there was constant communication between them, French became the common +language, as it is still in a great measure. They consider themselves a +part of the Apostolic Church, which by its isolated position in the then +almost inaccessible ravines had escaped the early innovations introduced +by the church of Rome; albeit not altogether, for they admitted +confession by contrite prayer to God and the mention aloud of their sins +to a priest, the power of priests to bind and to loose, that sins were +of two classes, mortal and venial, and the efficacy of fasts and +penance. At the Reformation all these were swept away, and the doctrines +and church polity of Calvin adopted. The independent church of the +Waldenses, or valley-people, existed about a century before the arrival +of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in 1180. Their name is supposed to be derived +from “valle densa,” contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally +Vaudois. The first serious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun +at the instigation of Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amadée +IX., Duke of Savoy. By her representation Innocent VIII. in 1487 +fulminated against the Waldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed +any of these heretics were to be absolved from promises they had made, +property wrongly obtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they +were to have a complete remission of all their sins. Persecution among +the French Vaudois commenced in the 13th cent. + +Torre-Pèllice. + +Torre-Pèllice, pop. 5200, _Inn:_ +H. de l’Ours, good and comfortable, is situated on the Pèllice and +its affluent the Angrogna, 34¼ m. S.W. by rail from Turin, +10½ m. from Pinerolo, and 1¼ m. from the station of +Luserna-San Giovanni, pop. of both places together, 4200. Luserna is a +considerable town to the N. of the station. _Inn:_ Albergo del +Belvédère. Opposite is San Giovanni, a large unfinished-looking +village, with barracks, a “Tempio Evangelico,” and several +elementary Protestant schools. + +306 + + +Torre-Pèllice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valley +enclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are the +Waldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school for +girls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraph +office, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna the +Baptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, and +dye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted many +Piedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have made +the Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant. + +The wine made in the valley of Pèllice is principally red, and is +drunk in the second year. A beautiful walk extends up the valley of +the Angrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. by the defile of Pra de Tor, +4360 ft., and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and +schools. Pop. of the district of Pramollo, 1350. + +Bobbio. Mirabouc. Col de la Croix. + +Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin +by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges des Pras, the Col de la Croix, La +Monta, and Abriés, 47 m. W., 16 to 17 hrs. walking. Up to Bobbio, 2838 ft, 7½ m. and 2½ +hrs. walking, pop. 1520, Tempio Evangelico, _Inns:_ Camoscio, etc., +there is nothing particular. Afterwards the valley gradually contracts +till it becomes a mere gorge, having at the entrance the ruins of +Fort Mirabouc. At Mirabouc, +4718 ft., the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house +station, 5683 ft., about 3½ hrs. from Bobbio, where provisions and +accommodation may be had for the night. From this commences the ascent +of the Col, 7576 ft., +17 m. from Torre-Pèllice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commanding a +splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearly level, +and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the track joins the +char-à-banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta, Ristolas, Abriés, +and Guillestre. (For Mont Dauphin and +Guillestre, see p. 344, and map +p. 304.) + + +Pinerolo. + +PINEROLO. + +23½ m. S.W. from Turin by rail and 10¾ m. NE. from Torre-Pèllice is +Pinerolo, 1237 ft., pop. 19,000. _Inns:_ *Couronne d’Or; Campana; +Cannon d’Oro. A handsome but rather a straggling town, with a large +Piazza d’Armi, a good promenade, several hospitals, and +representatives of the chief Italian banks. It contains besides a public +library, various colleges and schools, including one for cavalry and +another for music. The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden, +and a school for girls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a +large seminary. The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large +staff of dignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is +307 + +the Italian Alpine Club. _Cabs_—the course, 1 fr.; the +hour, 1 fr. 75 c.; each successive half-hour, 1 fr. + +Perosa. Col d’Abriés. + +Near the centre of the town is the terminus of the steam tram to +Saluzzo, 2¼ hrs. Near the railway station is the terminus of the steam +tram to Perosa, 12 m. N.W. from Pinerolo. Perosa, 2015 ft., pop. 2400, _Inn:_ +H. National, agreeably situated on the Chisone near its junction +with the Germanasca. On the other side of the Chisone is Pomaretto, pop. +760, with a Waldensian chapel and school. + +Perosa to Mont Dauphin.—There +is a post-road up the Germanasca and down the Guil, an affluent of the +Durance, to Mont Dauphin, passing by Perrero and Abriés. Abriés is 24 m. S.W. from +Perosa and on the S. side of the Col d’Abriés, and 21 m. N.E. from +Mont Dauphin. (For Mont Dauphin, see +p. 344.) About 7 m. W. from Perosa is Perrero, 931 ft, pop. +560, on the Germanasca at its junction with the Germanasca di Massello. +From this the road, still ascending the Germanasca, turns southward, and +passing by the hamlets of Pomeifre, Fontana, Gardiola, and Bonous on the +Germanasca at its junction with the Rodoretto, arrives at Prali on the +Gormanasca, 4502 ft., pop. of district 1370, about 4½ hrs. walk from +Perosa. The road from Prali passes Cugno, Ghigo, Orgiere, and Pomé to +Giordano, whence it becomes a mule-path, which at the hamlet of Ribba +separates from the path to the Pass Giuliano, 8358 ft. to the S.E., and +continues in a S.W. direction by the Germanasca to the Col d’Abriés, +8677 ft., frequented even in winter. The summit is 3 hrs. from Prali, +and the descent to the village of Abriés by the hamlet of Roux, 2½ hrs. +(For Abriés and Mont +Dauphin, see p. 344, and map, +p. 304.) + +Fenestrelle. Col de Sestrières. + +Perosa to +Cesanne, 28½ m. N.W. by the river Chisone, Fenestrelle, +Pragelas, and Sestrières. 9 m. above Perosa is Fenestrelle, pop. 1120, +_Inns:_ Croce Bianca; Scudo di Francia, one of the strongest +Italian fortresses on the frontier. 7 m. from Fenestrelle is +Pragelas, where the valley becomes more Alpine in character. Other +4½ m. is Sestrières, “whence the road mounts in zigzags to the +Col de +Sestrières, a nearly level plain 2 m. long, commanding +a good view of Mont Albergian. The descent is by long windings to the +level of the Dora, which is crossed to reach Cesanne, 8 m. from +Sestrières” (Ball’s _Alps_, p. 36). (For Cesanne to Briançon by Mont Genèvre, see under +Briançon, p. 333, and map p. 304.) + + +SALUZZO. + +Saluzzo is 42¼ m. S. by rail from Turin, and 4 hrs. by steam +tram from the same city. Saluzzo is 2¼ hrs. N. from Cuneo by steam +308 + +tram, passing Cavour, pop. of district 7220. Coach daily to Paesana on +the Po, 14 m. W., fare 1½ fr.; also to Sampeyre, Albergo della +Posta, 6 hrs. S.W., on the Vraita; and to Barge, 1½ fr., _Inn:_ +Lion d’Or. + +The termini of the Cuneo and Saluzzo, the Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and +the Turin and Saluzzo steam trams are just within the town. The tram to +Pinerolo leaves Saluzzo near the railway station, passing by the marble +statue to the poet Silvio Pellico, born at Saluzzo in 1788, +d. 1854. Saluzzo, pop. 18,000, _Inns:_ Corona Grossa; Gallo, +is a town of considerable size, possessing great facilities for visiting +various places in the neighbourhood, either by tram, rail, or coach. + +Paesana. Crissolo. Col de la +Traversette. + +Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin, 65½ m. W. +by Paesana, Crissolo, Col de la Traversette, Abriés, and Queyras. Take +the coach which starts in the evening for Paesana on the Po, 1778 ft., +with two fair inns, passing Martiniana and Sanfront. Above Paesana the +valley becomes very picturesque and the view of Monte Viso gradually +more and more imposing. After having passed Ostana, 4266 ft., the road +reaches the sanctuary of San Chiaffredo, and a little farther on is +Crissolo, 8 m. from +Paesana, 4374 ft. +Next is the Borgo, 4954 ft., the highest village in the valley of the +Po, consisting of three hamlets, the lowest having a small inn. On the +opposite side of the valley and about 1 m. farther up is the cave, +Balma Rio Martino, 5020 ft., in strata of dolomite. The valley shortly +after becomes wild and Alpine, yet enclosing two small oases—the +Pian Fiorenza, +6034 ft., and the Pian del +Ré, 6625 ft., containing in summer a rich variety of rare Alpine +plants. A little to the S.W. of the Pian del Ré is the source of +the Po. The road to the Col de la Traversette leads N.W. from the +Pian del Ré through a hollow covered with snow the greater part of the +year, whence the real ascent commences. About 300 ft. below the crest +and 9564 ft. above the sea is the tunnel, generally closed with snow, +pierced in 1480 by Ludovico II. The summit of the pass is 9680 ft. and about 4 hrs. +ascending from Crissolo. The descent into the valley of the Guil is by +the Buco di Viso. On the French side, 1897 ft. below the summit, is La +Bergerie du Grand Vallon. (See Mont +Dauphin to Saluzzo, p. 344, and map +p. 304; also Ball’s _Alps_, p. 22.) + + +Cuneo. + +CUNEO. + +54½ m. S. from Turin by rail, and 2½ hrs. S. from Saluzzo by rail, is +Cuneo, 1500 ft., pop. 1200, _Inns:_ H. Barra di Ferro; +Albergo di Superga. Steam tram to Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, 45 min. +S.W.; also to Dronero on the Maira, 1¼ hr. W. (See also pp. 182 and 279.) + +Cuneo to Barcelonnette, 61¼ m. W., by Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, Demonte, +Vinadio, Bersezio, the Col de Largentière and l’Arche, the frontier +village of France, with two inns. (See under Barcelonnette; Cuneo to Nice by the +Col di Tenda, see p. 182.) + +309 + + +Turin to Florence. + +291 miles southwards by Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and +Bologna. Time by quick trains, 13 hours. For London to Florence, and +through tickets, see the Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, +and Dover Railway, 3d. + + +FLORENCE +291 +TURIN. (For Asti, and the route as far as +Alessandria, see p. 280, and map p. 199.) + + +TURIN +FLORENCE +81 +210 +VOGHERA, pop. 10,000, on +the Staffora. _Hotel:_ H. Italia. Branch to Pavia, 17 m. +N., and Milan. Between Voghera and the next station, Casteggio, is on +the right Montebello, where the battle took place, 9th June 1800, which +preceded that of Marengo by five days. + +Piacenza. Cathedral. + + +TURIN +FLORENCE +117 +174 +PIACENZA, pop. 36,000, +on the Po. _Hotels:_ S. Marco; Italia; Croce Bianca. +_Cabs_—the course, 1 horse, 70 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. For +the first hour, 1 horse, 1 fr. 50 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. +80 c. + +In the middle of the town is the square called the Piazza de’ +Cavalli, from the two bronze equestrian statues of Duke Alexander +Farnese and his son Duke Ranuccio. On one side is the church of +S. Francesco, and on the other the Palazzo del Governo, and +opposite it the picturesque Palazzo del Comune, begun in 1281. +The portico underneath is used as a market. The upper part of the +building is of red brick with handsome windows. The principal street, +the Strada Diritta, leads to the Cathedral (1122-1233), containing some +admirable paintings. In the interior the arches are round, but the ribs +of the roof meet at an angle. At the 3d altar is a picture, by +A. Sirani, of the Ten Thousand Martyrs; at the 4th a painting of +the Death of a Saint. In the right transept is an altar-piece, Three +Saints, by Calisto di Lodi, and on the ceiling frescoes by Agostino and +Lodovico Carracci, in Correggio’s style. The Coronation of the Virgin is +by Procaccini. The Cupola is divided into eight compartments; six +of them were painted by Guercino, with figures of prophets and sybils; +the other two figures were by Morazzone. Below are four allegorical +paintings by Franceschini. The roof of the crypt under the church rests +on 100 columns. S. Antonino (the former cathedral) was commenced in +the 10th cent., and restored in 1562. The curious vestibule and the +massive columns bearing the tower are relics of the earlier edifice. At +the W. end of the town is Sa. Maria di Campagna, famous for +paintings by Pordenone. On +310 + +the left of the chief entrance is a fresco by him of St. Augustine and +five Angels; in the 1st chapel left are two large frescoes, the Nativity +of the Virgin and the Adoration of the Magi. Crossing the transept we +have on the left the “Marriage of St. Catharine,” the faces being +portraits of the Pordenone family, and a fine fresco also by him, +representing the dispute of St. Catharine. By him are likewise the +frescoes in the eight compartments of the cupola; those in the +pendentives are by B. Gatti. The most highly decorated church is +_S. Sisto_ (built in the 16th cent.), with an Ionic atrium. +Raphael’s Madonna, now at Dresden, was taken from S. Sisto. + +The _Palazzo Farnese_ is a great, unfinished, building, begun in +1558 by Margaret of Austria, now used as barracks. The Mandelli palace, +now the Prefettura, has a handsome façade. 24 miles to the south of +Piacenza is the site of _Velleia_, a town which was +overwhelmed by a landslip in the 3d cent. Many interesting objects have +been obtained there; which have been deposited in the museum of Parma. +In the vicinity are emanations from the ground of carburetted hydrogen +gas, which takes fire on the application of a flame. + +Parma. Museum. + + +TURIN +FLORENCE +153 +138 +PARMA, pop. 46,000, on the +Parma. _Hotels:_ Albergo Centrale; Croce Bianca; Leone d’Oro. +Parma, although founded by the Boii, and conquered by the Romans 183 +b.c., is a neat clean town of modern +appearance, surrounded by bastioned walls. The most important of the +edifices is the Palazzo Ducale, forming, with the _Palazzo +Farnese_, a large unsymmetrical assemblage of buildings in the +Piazza del Corte behind the Piazza Grande. In the Ducal Palace is a +collection of paintings belonging to the French school. In the Farnese +are the Museum of Antiquities, the Picture-Gallery, the Library, and the +Farnese Theatre, now in a ruinous condition. It was built in 1620, in +the time of Duke Ranuccio, and for many years was the scene of splendid +spectacles and grand public entertainments. + +_The Museum of +Antiquities_ embraces a small collection, in four rooms, of Roman +altars, bronzes, busts, and mosaics, principally from Velleia and Rome. +Among the most remarkable, are “The Theft of the Tripoid,” in 1st room. +In the 2d room, a statuette of Hercules intoxicated, and the +“Tabula alimentaria,” a rescript of the Emperor Trajan, relating to +the support of certain poor children. In 4th room, a bust of Maria +Louisa, the first Napoleon’s second wife, by Canova. Higher up on the +same staircase is the _Library_, with 150,000 volumes, and some +thousands of MSS., in several large galleries and halls, at the end of +one of which is Correggio’s fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin. + +311 + + +Parma: Picture-Gallery—Correggio. + +_The +Pinacoteca_ is on the same floor of the palace as the library, +and is open daily during the same hours. The collection is not large, +but is remarkable for the number and value of Correggio’s pictures. In +selecting the best pictures, we shall arrange the names of the painters +alphabetically to facilitate reference. + +_Annibal Caracci._—Pietá. _Lodovico +Caracci._—Funeral of the Virgin; the Apostles at the tomb of +the Virgin (two large pictures). _Cima da Conegliano._—Two +very good pictures. (Correggio.)—1. The Madonna della +Scala, a fresco. 2. The Flight into Egypt, known as the Madonna +della Scodella, from the dish in the Virgin’s hand. 3. _The Madonna +with St. Jerome_, sometimes called Il Giorno, from its bright +daylight effect and in contrast with La Notte at Dresden—this is +Correggio’s best picture here, perhaps it is the best picture he ever +painted on canvas, and it is universally considered one of the marvels +of art. The letters A. A. (Antonio Allegri) are worked into the silk +that covers the walls of the cabinet. 4. The Martyrdom of St. Placidus +and St. Flavia (such subjects are not agreeable, however skilfully +treated). 5. The Entombment. 6. Christ carrying his Cross (some critics +think this to be a work of Anselmi, others that it is an early +production of Correggio). 7. A Portrait attributed to him. (On the +walls of some of the rooms are the drawings that were made for Toschi +the engraver from Correggio’s frescoes at Parma.) _Albert +Durer._—Man with a Skull. _Francesco +Francia._—Descent from the Cross; the Virgin enthroned with +Saints; the Virgin with the Infant and St. John (most charming). +_Garofalo._—Virgin and Child in the clouds, with a landscape +below. _Giovanni di San Giovanni._—A Singing party. +_Murillo._—St. Jerome. _Parmegianino._—The +Marriage of St. Catharine (an exquisite picture); Marriage of the +Virgin; Portrait of a Man with a music book (marked “incerto” on the +frame). _Fra Paola da Pistoia._—Adoration of Magi. +_Pordenone._—Portrait of a Man with an open book. +_Raffaello(?)._—Christ in the clouds with the Virgin and St. +John, and Saints below (it is by no means certain that this is a work of +Raffaello). _Giuseppe Rosa._—Landscape with Cattle. +_Lionello Spada._—Fortune-telling, three figures; Marriage of +St. Catharine. _Spagnoletto._—Twelve pictures of Saints. +_B. Schidone._—The Entombment; the Maries at the Sepulchre; +Virgin, Child, and St. John. _Vandyck._—Virgin and Child; +Portrait of an Old Lady. _Velasquez._—Portrait of a Man in a +black dress (there are other portraits ascribed to him). _L. da +Vinci._—Sketch of a Female Head. _Zuccarelli._—River +Scene. + +_The Ducal Garden_, open daily to the public, is on the other +side of the river, and may be reached from the palace by a bridge called +the Ponte Verde. It is a large piece of ground, laid out in a formal +style; but when its chestnuts, limes, and acacias, are in leaf, it +affords a pleasant promenade. Within the grounds is a palace called +Palazzo di Giardino. The _Botanic Gardens_ are at the other side of +the town, +312 + +near the citadel. The broad road near it, called the Stradone, is +planted with trees, and is a favourite place of resort for the +town’s-people, both in carriages and on foot. + +Parma: Cathedral. + +By a narrow street leading east from the Ducal Palace is the Cathedral, +a good specimen of Italian Gothic, built in the 13th and 14th +cents. The portals are adorned with lions, by B. da Bisoni, 1281. In the +interior, along the top of clustered articulated columns, runs an +elegant triforium, and over it extends a lofty elliptical roof, painted +by G. Mazzola. The choir is above the level of the nave. Within the +great door, left side, is a portrait of Correggio, and on the other, one +of Parmegianino. _The cupola_ was painted by _Correggio_ +(1526-30), with frescoes representing the _Assumption of the +Virgin_, but they are in a ruined state. Those on the vault of the +right transept were by a son of Correggio, while those on the left +transept were by Orazio Sammachini. In the Capella dei Canonici, on the +right side of the church, at the foot of the choir-steps, is an +altar-piece by B. Gatti; and near it a poor bust of Petrarch, with +an inscription recording that he was archdeacon here. Beneath the choir +is a spacious crypt, supported by thirty-four marble columns. On the +walls of the sacristy are frescoes of the 14th century, and intarsias by +L. Biancho. + +Parma: Baptistery. S. Giovanni. + +The _Baptistery_ is a lofty octagonal building +(1196-1281), with four deeply-recessed doorways, enriched with +bas-reliefs. The four tiers of open galleries with columns, and a fifth +tier of engaged arches, the pinnacled canopies at the top, and the ring +of fantastic carvings below, combine to render this one of the most +remarkable buildings of its class in Italy. In the interior there are +two tiers of galleries, some rude sculpture, and a profusion of fresco +painting—old, but not of much value. At the middle is a great +font, hewn out of one piece of marble, and having in the centre a place +where the priest could stand, protected from the water, whilst he +immersed the child. The font at which the Parmesans are now baptised is +at one side, ornamented with carvings, and supported by a marble lion. +S. +Giovanni Evangelista (1510), a church standing near the +cathedral, and much visited on account of the _frescoes painted by +Correggio_ (1520-25) _in the cupola_; they represent the Vision +of St. John, and, though blackened and badly lighted, they are +fortunately in a better condition than those in the cathedral. The +figures are on a large scale, and include the Evangelists and the +Fathers of the Church, who look with astonishment at the glory above. +Correggio also painted in grey the decorations of the vault of the +sanctuary; and over the door of the sacristy in the left transept a +fresco of St. John. +313 + +In the 1st chapel to the right of the principal entrance is a good +painting of the Modenese school, and the monument of +Sanvitale-Montenuovo; in the 2d an Adoration of the Shepherds, by +Giacomo Francia (the painter’s portrait is seen in the old man to the +left); in the 6th chapel is a copy of Correggio’s “Night,” now at +Dresden. On the arches of the 1st and 2d chapels on the left of the +entrance are much-damaged _frescoes by Parmegianino_ (four +subjects); and in the 6th chapel is a picture, by Anselmi, of Christ +with his Cross. The white marble holy-water fonts deserve notice. In the +adjoining _convent_ (now used as barracks) is a damaged fresco of +two children by Correggio. + +Parma: S. Paolo—Correggio. + +Near the Piazza Grande is the church of the _Madonna della +Steccata_, from designs by F. Zaccagni in 1521. The best +frescoes are by Parmeggianino, Moses breaking the Tables of Stone, Adam +and Eve, and the Virtues, on the archway of the choir. On the vault over +the high altar a Coronation of the Virgin, by Anselmi. Gatti painted the +cupola. The wooden pulpit combines elegance with simplicity. A good +Madonna in corner chapel left of main entrance. Near the Piazza di Corte +is the church of S. Lodovico, and adjoining it the suppressed +Convent of +S. Paolo, now a school. In this small building are the best +preserved works of Correggio, painted for the abbess of the convent +on the walls and ceiling of this her reception-room. The subject is +Children, or Amoretti, represented as being seen through the openings of +a bower or piece of trellis-work. Their varied attitudes are most +charmingly portrayed. Diana herself, whose Triumph is thus depicted, is +painted over the fireplace. Below the principal subjects are smaller +figures in grey. The frescoes in the next room are by Araldi. The +custodian is generally to be found in the picture-gallery. + +The famous Parmesan cheese is made chiefly in dairies around Milan, +Lodi, and Pavia, and is called Formaggio di grana, because commonly used +in a granular form with soup. 17½ miles S.E. from Parma is Reggio Emilia (pop. +24,000). _Hotels:_ Posta; Cavaletto. _Cabs_—80 c. the +course; 1½ fr. the hour. _Sights_—Cathedral; house of +Lodovico Ariosto, born here 1474. His _Orlando Furioso_ went +through sixteen editions in the 16th cent. 9 m. N.E. is Correggio, +the birthplace of the great painter Antonio Allegri, called Correggio. +To the Castle of Canossa and back, 14 frs. + +Modena. Cathedral. + + +TURIN +FLORENCE +185¼ +105¾ +MODENA, pop. 31,000. +_Hotels:_ Reale; San Marco; Italia. Their omnibuses await the +trains. _Cabs_—one horse, 80 c. the course, 1 fr. 50 c. +the hour; 2 horses, 1 fr. the course, 1 fr. 70 c. the +hour. + +Modena (_Mutina_, Lat.), the capital of the former duchy of +Modena, +314 + +is a clean and well-built town surrounded by ramparts, some of which +serve the inhabitants as promenades. The country around is flat and +fertile. A canal connects the town with the Panaro, +a tributary of the Po, by which means water communication with the +Adriatic is obtained. + +The Cathedral, begun in 1099, is in the centre +of the city. Its exterior is irregular, and encumbered with houses. The +principal façade is small but pleasing, with a large rose window and +three doorways. On the side next the Piazza Grande is a handsome porch, +with columns resting on rudely-carved lions of red marble. The interior, +though low, and destitute of paintings of merit, is interesting, +especially for the sub-choral chapel, with a roof supported by many +marble columns. At the entrance of this chapel is a group of lions, and +in one corner life-size figures in coloured terra-cotta, by Begarelli, +representing the Nativity. In the church notice the holy-water fonts, +which look as if they were the hollowed capitals of ancient columns, and +the stone pulpit with bas-reliefs. On the right side of the choir are +some curious old bas-reliefs, including one of the Last Supper; and on +the left side of the choir is the mausoleum of the last Duke of the +house of Este in the male line, died 1803. The _Campanile_, one of +the finest in Italy, 315 feet high, was erected in the 13th and 14th +cents. It received the name of Ghirlandina from its vane being +ornamented with a bronze garland. +Modena: Ducal Palace. +At the head of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the Ducal Palace, +an immense pile, containing the Picture-Gallery, occupying several halls +in the upper stories, with an entrance on the north side. It is open +daily from 9 to 4. The collection comprises between 500 and 600 +pictures, amongst which, though there are no _chefs d’œuvre_, are +many good ones. The gallery once ranked high amongst Italian galleries, +but towards the end of the last century 180 pictures were sold, +including five Correggios, to the King of Poland (they are now at +Dresden); and the Duke when expelled in 1860 took away with him a few +more of the best. In two of the rooms are glazed cases full of drawings +and sketches by the old masters. Amongst them is a drawing in sepia for +Tintoretto’s masterpiece, the Miracle of St. Mark at Venice. In a room +kept locked, but which the custode will open on application, are some +interesting cabinets (one designed, it is said, by B. Cellini, +another of amber, a third of tortoise-shell); also bronzes, carving +in wood and ivory, majolica, enamels, etc. Amongst other curiosities is +a “Presepio,” with numerous figures in coral, the metal work being of +silver. + +The _Library_, on the same staircase as the +Pinacoteca, contains +315 + +about 100,000 printed books (including 2500 quattrocentisti) and 3000 +MSS. placed in several halls, one of which is very large. Also a few +Roman and Etruscan antiquities, and the series of coins and medals +struck at Modena. In the suppressed convent of S. Agostino, near +the gate of that name, is the Museo Lapidario. Among the articles is a +block of stone obtained from the ancient Via Mutina, at a depth of 18 +feet below the surface. On the other side is a collection of mediæval +tombs. In the church of St. Agostino is a terra-cotta group, by +Begarelli, of the Entombment. M. Angelo spoke very highly of this +artist’s works. + +The _Ducal Garden_ is a prettily laid out piece of ground, which +is open to the public daily from the early morning to the evening. + +Bologna. + + +opp. 316 +plan of Bologna + + +TURIN +FLORENCE +208¼ +82¾ +BOLOGNA, pop. 91,000. +_Hotels:_ Brun; Italia; Bologna; Aquila Nera; del Pellegrino; Tre +Re; Venezia; Commercio. _Restaurants:_ Stelloni; Felsineo. +Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. _Cabs_—one horse, +the course, 75 c.; by the hour, 1 fr. 50 c. To or from the railway +station, without luggage, 1 fr. + +Bologna is a walled city, with twelve gates, situate on a fertile +plain near the foot of the Apennine range. The Bolognese school of +painting is called the Scuola Caraccesca, from its founders, Lodovico +Carracci (b. 1555, d. 1619), and his two cousins Annibale +(b. 1560, d. 1609) and Agostino, a man of erudition, who +furnished the general plan of the pictures. Their most distinguished +pupils were Guido Reni (b. 1575, d. 1642), Domenichino +(b. 1581, d. 1641), Lanfranco (b. 1581, d. 1647), G. +Barbiere, called Il Guercino, from his squinting (b. 1590, +d. 1666), Michel-Angiolo da Caravaggio (b. 1569, +d. 1609), and Carlo Cignani (b. 1628, d. 1719); +Bologna: Picture-Gallery. +beautiful specimens of whose works are to be seen in the various +churches, but especially in the picture-gallery of the “_Accademia delle Belle +Arti_,” situated at the north-east end of the town, near the +Porta S. Donato (see plan). It occupies eight rooms of the first +floor, contains 360 paintings, all bearing the names of the artists, and +is open from 9 to 3. Free on Sundays. The gem is St. Cecilia, by +Raphael. + +The other best works are:—12. _Guercino_.—St. William; +13, St. Bruno; 15. St. John the Baptist; 18. St. John the Evangelist. +26. _Bugiardini_.—Marriage of St. Catharine. 34. _Agostino +Caracci_.—Last Communion of St. Jerome, one of his finest +paintings; 35. Assumption. 36. _Annibale Caracci_.—Virgin and +Child, with Angels and Saints; 37 Virgin enthroned, with Saints. 39, 40. +_Lodovico Caracci_.—Assumption; +316 + +42. Saints (Bargellini portraits) adoring the Virgin and Child; 43. +Transfiguration; 44. Calling of St. Matthew; 46. St. John the Baptist; +47 to 53. Pictures by the same artist. 70. _M. +Desubleo_.—Christ appearing as a Pilgrim to St. Augustine. 75. +_Lavinia Fontana_.—St. Francis de Paul. 78. _Fr. +Francia_.—Virgin and Saints (1490), extremely fine; 79. +Annunciation; 80. Virgin and Saints; 81. Virgin and Saints. There are +several other unnumbered pictures by this master on frames. 84. +_Giacomo Francia_.—Virgin and Saints; 85. Virgin and Saints. +89, 90. _Innocenzio da Imola_ (an imitator of +Raffaello).—Virgin and Saints. 122. _Nicola da +Cremona_—Descent from the Cross.. 134. +_Guido_.—Madonna with the Protectors of Bologna; 135. +Massacre of the Innocents; 136. Crucifixion; 137. Samson with the Ass’s +Jawbone; 138. The Virgin of the Rosary (this is on silk, and was carried +in processions); 139. Bishop Corsini; 143. Portrait of a Carthusian. +152. _Raphael_.—St. Cecilia, +with other Saints, listening to the Music of the Angels (the instruments +of secular music lie broken on the ground). This celebrated composition, +painted in 1515, is well known from copies and engravings. 175. +_Elisabetta Sirani_.—St. Anthony of Padua; 176. Madonna. 181. +_L. Spada_.—Melchisedec blessing Abraham. 183. +_Tiarini_.—St. Catharine of Alexandria. 197. +_Perugino_.—Virgin and Saints. 204. _Timoteo delle +Vite_.—Magdalene. 206. _Domenichino_.—Martyrdom of +St. Agnes; 207. Madonna of the Rosary; 208. Martyrdom of St. Peter of +Verona (the same subject as that treated by Titian in a picture lately +burnt at Venice). 212. _Unknown_.—Sleeping Child. 291. +_Desubleo_.—St. John the Baptist. 292. _Innocenzio da +Imola_.—Virgin and Saints. 294. +_Bugiardini_.—Madonna. 360. _Aluno_ (_Nicolo da +Foligno_).—Virgin and Saints (given to the Gallery by Pius +IX.) + +In the same building is a collection of old arms and armour +(_Oploteca_), and on the ground-floor a few good modern pictures. +A collection of original drawings is preserved in the library. + +Bologna: University. S. Giacomo. + +Nearly opposite the Accademia is the University, with about 430 +students, directed by 59 professors, of whom, among the most famous, +have been Galvani, the first that observed the phenomena of Galvanism, +Laura Bassi, a lady professor (d. 1778), and Giuseppe +Mezzofanti (d. 1849), who spoke fluently upwards of forty-two +languages. From the tower is a good view of the town. Attached to the +University is a Museum of Antiquities and a Library. The Geological +Museum is in a separate building. From the University, walking towards +the leaning towers, we pass, in the Strada Donato or Luigi Zamboni (see +plan), the oratory of St. Cecilia, the church of S. Giacomo, and (14) the Palazzo +Maloezzi-Medici; and shortly after, stand below two of the peculiar kind +of watch-towers used in Italy during the middle ages. + +_S. Giacomo Maggiore_ was built in 1267, but subsequently +restored. In the 6th chapel right is a fine work by Bart. Passarotti, +the Virgin +317 + +on a Throne, with Saints; in the 7th, Prospero Montana’s St. Alexis; in +the 8th, Innocenzo da Imola’s Marriage of St. Catharine; in the 11th, +three pictures by Lor Sabbatini; in the 12th, two frescoes by Pellegrino +Tibaldi, the Baptism in the same chapel is by P. Fontana. At the +end of the church, to the left of the altar, is the Bentivoglio chapel, +with Francesco Francia’s best work, a “Madonna,” the lunette above +by Giacomo Francia. The 5th, 7th, and 10th chapels, on the left side of +the church, contain good pictures, and in the 9th is Samacchini’s +Presentation in the Temple, which was engraved by Agostino Caracci. + +Bologna: The Two Towers. + +In St. Cecilia are frescoes representing the legend of St. Cecilia +and St. Valerian, by F. and G. Francia, Costa and Amico Aspertini. +During the French occupation they were considerably damaged. At the +commencement of the Strada Donato are the Two Towers (28 in plan), seen from a great +distance. The taller, the _Torre degli Asinelli_, commenced in +1109, is 272 feet high, with an inclination of 3½ feet, and ascended by +a rickety dirty staircase of 447 steps to the summit, whence there is +the best view of the town. The Torre Garisenda, commenced in 1110, is +139 feet high, with an inclination of 8½ feet. From the towers, the +Mercato di Mezzo leads W. to the _Piazza Vittorio Emanuele_, with, +on the S. side, the church of S. Petronio; on the N., the Palazzo +del’ Podesta; on the E., the Pal. dei Banchi; and on the W., the Pal. +Pubblico, an immense edifice, commenced in 1290, consisting of various +buildings thrown together. In front is the Fountain, by Laureti, adorned +with a statue of Neptune, by Bologna. + +Bologna: S. Petronio. + +S. +Petronio, commenced in 1390, but still unfinished, is of brick, +and in the pointed arched Gothic style. The doorways of the façade are +remarkable works; the middle one was by Jacopo della Quercia (1425). In +the interior, notice on the right side the stained glass of the 4th +chapel; Sansovino’s statue of St. Anthony of Padua, and Treviso’s +grisaille pictures relating to that saint in the 9th chapel; the windows +are said to be from M. Angelo’s designs; in the 11th chapel, +a bas-relief, an Assumption, by Tribolo, with Angels at the sides, +attributed to Properzia de’ Rossi, a Bolognese lady (d. 1535), +who was at once painter, sculptor, engraver, and musician. The campanile +is over this chapel. The large fresco of the choir is by Franceschini. +On the floor of the left aisle is the meridian line traced by Cassini in +1652. In the 1st chapel, on this side, is some modern Milanese glass; in +the 7th, a Madonna, by L. Costa; and in the 10th, Sa. Barba, +by Tiarini. At the southern end of the church is (29 in +318 + +plan) the Biblioteca Comunale, in the building called the Archiginnasio +Antico, originally the University, before it was removed to its present +edifice. Besides the Library, open daily from 10 to 4, it contains a +valuable Museum of Antiquities. Between S. Petronio and +S. Stefano are (17) the _Pal. della Mercanzia_, the Chamber of +Commerce, erected in 1294; (18) the Pal Pepoli, 1344; and (9) the +Casino. +Bologna: Santo Stefano. +Santo Stefano is a combination of ancient churches, chapels, and +courts, on the site of a temple dedicated to Isis. Enter first the +Church of the Crucifix, so named from the old painting at the great +altar. In the 1st chapel on the right is a picture by Muratori; in the +2d on the left St. Elisabetta, by Gessi. Then pass through a small +chapel into the circular chapel styled San Sepolchro, which contains the +tomb of St. Petronius, with curious carvings, and a miraculous well, +considered to have healing virtues. This building is thought to have +been formerly the baptistery of the next chapel (originally, perhaps, +the principal chapel), dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. From a small +court, called the Atrium of Pilate, from its alleged resemblance to that +at Jerusalem, we gain access to the chapel of the Trinity, which +contains four marble columns said to have belonged to the temple of +Isis, and some pictures by Tiarini and others. There are ancient mural +paintings in the sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation; and in +the subterranean chapel of the Confession, a broken column is shown +which is said to afford the measure of the Saviour’s height. After +visiting a cloister, where the columns show much variety of form, we +have made the complete tour of this singular labyrinth of buildings, +which are of great interest to the ecclesiologist. Behind Santo Stefano +in the Strada Maggiore are (beginning at the leaning-towers’ end, see +plan), 2, S. Bartolommeo; 23, the Pal. Zampieri; 24 is the house of the +celebrated composer Rossini, built by him in 1825. On the opposite side +is the church Ai Servi, and No. 13 the Pal. Hercolani, once famous for +its collection of pictures. +Bologna: San Bartolommeo. +Palazzo Zampieri. San Domenico. +_San Bartolommeo_, built in 1653, has +some fine marbles and rather a gaudy dome. In 4th chapel right an +“Annunciation,” by Albano. The paintings behind the high altar are by +Franceschini. In the left transept, an oval picture of the Madonna, by +Guido. The Latin inscription on the wall relates how it was returned +from London in 1859. _Palazzo Zampieri_ (admission, ½ fr.), +although deprived of most of the pictures, still retains the admirable +frescoes by Agos. Annibale, and Lod. Caracci and Guercino. The church of +_Ai +Servi_, built 1393, has a fine interior, with thin columns. In +the 2d chapel left is a “Touch-me-not,” by Albano; and in the 4th, +a St. Andrew, also by him. In the 6th chapel an “Annunciation” by +Inno da +319 + +Imola. South from the principal square is (No. 1 in plan) the church of +S. +Domenico, attached to a convent where St. Dominic lived and +died. The church dates from the 12th cent., but restored in the 18th. +Interior—2d chapel right, Miracle of Ferrerio, by D. Creti. +Right of south transept—the splendidly decorated chapel of _St. +Dominic_, with his sarcophagus ornamented with bas-reliefs, by Nic. +di Pisa. The garlands and statuettes were by Nic. di Barri (Arca), 1469. +The kneeling angel on the right, and St. Petronius, over the +sarcophagus, were by Michael Angelo in his youth. The base of the tomb, +with its bas-reliefs illustrating the life of the Saint, was not added +until 1532, a work of Alfonso Lombardi. On the beautiful ceiling of +the chapel is a fresco by Guercino, “The Transformation” of St. Dominic. +The painting of the Saint burning Heretical Books (on the left wall) is +by L. Spada; that of the Saint recalling a Child to Life is by +Tiarini. In a chapel on the right side of the high altar is the Marriage +of Saint Catharine, by Filippino Lippi. The Adoration of the Magi at the +high altar is by Bart. Cesi. In the left transept should be noticed the +tomb of a Pepoli (1348), and on the wall a portrait of St. Thomas +Aquinas, considered here an accurate likeness, though painted 100 years +after the death of the saint. +Bologna: Guido’s Tomb. +Opposite St. Dominic’s chapel, and in the north transept, is the chapel +of the Rosary, containing in the centre, under a slab, the grave of +Guido Reni (b. 1575; d. 1642). Near him lie the remains of his +favourite lady pupil, Elizabeth Sirani, who, with her master and the +Caracci, executed the small paintings which adorn the frame of the +reredos of the altar in this chapel. + +Bologna: San Pietro. + +Directly north from the Palazzo Pubblico is S. Pietro, rebuilt in 1605, +containing, on the arch above the high altar, an Annunciation, the last +painting by Lodovico Caracci, who died a few days after finishing it. +Near S. Pietro is a small church Madonna di Galleria, with, in 1st +chapel left, St. Philip Neri, by Guercino, and in the next, a fine +Albani. N.E. from S. Pietro is S. Martino, 1217, restored. In +the 1st chapel right, Giorlanno da Carpi’s Adoration of the Magi; and in +the 5th chapel on the left side is an Assumption, attributed to +Perugino; in the next, a St. Jerome, by L. Caracci; and in the +chapel next the entrance, Madonna and Saints, by F. Francia. Old +monuments in the cloisters. East from the leaning-towers is +S. Vitale, consecrated in the fifth cent., and lately restored. At +the 2d altar, right, is a Flight into Egypt, by Tiarini; in a large +chapel on the left, Angels, with a beautiful landscape, by +F. Francia; and at the first altar in the body of the chapel on the +left, an Adoration of the Infant in Perugino’s manner. + +320 + + +ENVIRONS OF BOLOGNA. + +Beyond the Porta Maniola are the convent and church of the Annunziata. In +the 2d, 3d, and 4th chapels of the church are three pictures by +L. Costa, and in the Chapel of the Sacrament a Madonna by Lippo +Dalmasio. In the choir is a very fine work by Fr. Francia (1500), and in +the sacristy an Entombment by Giacomo Francia. + +Madonna di S. Luca. The Certosa. + +Beyond the Porta di Saragossa is the much-visited church of the +Madonna di +S. Luca, on the top of a hill commanding a beautiful view. +It is approached by a portico of 640 arches, which begins just beyond +the gate, and extends to the church, a distance of nearly 3 m. +This portico was begun in 1672, but many years elapsed before it was +finished. The church derives its name from possessing a picture reputed +to have been painted by St. Luke. The best pictures have been removed +from the church. Outside the same gate is the Certosa, formerly a +Carthusian convent, now a cemetery. The church contains some pictures, +and the chains of some Algerine slaves with the amount of ransom +attached to each. + +269¾ m. from Turin and 21¼ from Florence is Pistoja (see p. 231), and 291 m. +from Turin is Florence (see p. 233). + + +St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the +Little St. Bernard. + +(74 m. N.E. See Map, page 290.) + + +COURMAYEUR +74 +ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY (see p. +289), 15 m. S.E. from Chambery, and 45½ m. N.W. from +Modane. + + +ST. PIERRE +14 +60 +ALBERTVILLE, pop. +5000 on the Arly, and 1180 ft. above the sea. _Inns:_ Million; +Balances. A diligence runs between Albertville and Annecy, +22 m. N. + +22 +52 +LA ROCHE +CEVINS, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Croix Blanche; Lion d’Or. Hidden +and sheltered behind a great rock which closes the valley. 2 m. +beyond is the defile Pas de Briançon. + + +ST. PIERRE +COURMAYEUR +31 +43 +MOUTIERS, pop. 2100, and +600 ft. above the sea-level, on the confluence of the Doron with the +Isère. _Inns:_ Couronne; Courriers. One mile from the town is the +Roc du Diable, rising to the height of 8200 ft. At the base are the salt +springs, utilised both +321 + +by salt-works and a bathing establishment. From Moutiers the road +extends up a narrow and picturesque defile, following the course of the +Isère, past St. Marcel, pop. 500, then ascends to the summit of a rock +called the Detroit du Ciel, 945 ft. above the bed of the river, where +the valley is only 145 ft. wide; and after this enters a rich plain with +the village of Centron. On the opposite side of the river is Mont Jovet, +8375 ft., commanding a splendid view. Then, after passing the village of +Villette, pop. 500, we reach + +Aime. Seez. + + +ST. PIERRE +COURMAYEUR +41 +33 +AIME, pop. 1100, and 2385 ft. +above the sea-level. _Inn:_ Petit St. Bernard. This, the “Forum +Claudii et Axuma,” possesses remains of extensive Roman fortifications, +and a very ancient church called St. Martin, built of stones from Roman +buildings. 4 m. beyond is Bellentre, pop. 1100, on the Isere, where +the culture of the vine ceases. The Pass of the Little St. Bernard comes +into view. + +50 +24 +BOURG ST. +MAURICE, pop. 2600, and 2780 ft. above the sea. _Inns:_ +Voyageurs; Royal. A village consisting of one long street, near the +confluence of the Isère with the Versoyen and Nantet. + +52 +22 +SEEZ, the ancient Sextum, a +pretty village between six mountains, pop. 2600, and 2985 ft. above the +sea-level. From Seez the road passes the village of Villard-Dessus, and +then crosses the Recluse by a lofty bridge near an escarpment of gypsum, +called the Roche Blanche, supposed to be the place noticed by Polybius, +where Hannibal posted himself to protect his cavalry and beasts of +burden. 3 m. beyond is St. Germain; the last inhabited village +during the winter. From St. Germain the ascent is easy to the + + +ST. PIERRE +COURMAYEUR +58½ +15½ +HOSPICE, 7077 ft., founded +by St. Bernard of Menthon, on a grassy plain 3 m. long, and about a +mile from the summit (7193 ft.), indicated by the Colonne de Joux, +Jovis, or Jupiter, 23 ft. high, of Cipolino marble. From the Hospice, +Mont Belvidere, 10,093 ft, may be ascended. About 300 paces from the +column is the Cirque d’Annibal, consisting of a circle of large stones +lying on the ground, where Hannibal is said to have held a council of +war, 218 b.c. A few miles below +are Cantine des Eaux Kousses, with a small inn, and Thuile, +a hamlet, 4685 ft. above the sea-level, 9 m. from +Courmayeur. + +Pré St. Didier. + + +ST. PIERRE +COURMAYEUR +70 +4 +PRÉ ST. +DIDIER, pop. 1300, on the Doire. _Inns:_ Poste; Pavilion. +Junction with road to Aosta, 23 m. E. (See map, +p. 290.) + +322 + + +74 +COURMAYEUR, 4211 +ft., the highest considerable village in the valley of Aosta. +_Inns:_ Royal; Angelo; Mont Blanc; Union. A public coach +leaves daily for Aosta by St. Didier. Fare, 7 frs.; time, 5 hrs. +Courmayeur is frequented by Piedmontese in considerable numbers every +summer, both on account of the mineral springs in its neighbourhood and +for the sake of the exquisite freshness of its climate. The waters, +which rise from alluvium, are saline and purgative. Those of La Saxe are +sulphureous. All who have visited Courmayeur, under favourable +circumstances, agree in considering its position one of the finest in +the Alps. Six different routes diverge from Courmayeur—the road to +Aosta; that of the Little St. Bernard; the Allée Blanche; the Col du +Géant; the Col Ferret; and the Col de Serène, leading to the Great St. +Bernard. + + +Paris to Modane by Lyons, Voiron, and Grenoble. + +From Paris to Modane by this route the distance is 476 m., and +Modane to Turin 50 m. farther. This is the route to take for the +Baths of Allevard, the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, and for +Grenoble, which is one of the nearest railway stations to Mont Pelvoux +and the other lofty mountains in the Dauphiny. The best resting-places +are Dijon, Lyon, and Grenoble. + +(Map, page 304.) + + +MODANE +476 +PARIS. Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à +Lyon, where buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. From Paris to Lyons +follow pp. 1 to 29, and examine the maps referred to. + + +PARIS +318 +158 +LYONS. Perrache station. (See p. 29.) + + +325½ +150½ +ST. PRIEST, pop. 2800. +In the old castle here Charles VII. confined his son Louis XI., then the +Dauphin. + + +Bourgoin. Virieu. + + +PARIS +MODANE +344 +132 +BOURGOIN, pop. 5200. +_Inns:_ Europe; Parc. Situated among 16,000 acres of bog, producing +large quantities of peat. 10 m. farther is La Tour-du-Pin, pop. +3200. _Inn:_ Poste. On the Bourbre. + +358 +118 +ST. +ANDRE-LE-GAZ. A coach at this station awaits passengers for +Chambery, 32 m. E., passing by Les Echelles, whence the Chartreuse +may be visited. + +363 +113 +VIRIEU, pop. 2000. With a +large old 14th and 16th cent. castle, in good preservation, containing +tapestry and portraits, 16th cent. + +323 + + +Chabons. Rives. Voiron. + + +PARIS +MODANE +368 +108 +CHABONS, pop. 2000. 5 m. +distant is Lac Paladru, 3 m. long and 160 ft. deep, surrounded by +wooded slopes studded with villages. At the N. end of the lake is +Paladru, pop. 1000. + + +PARIS +MODANE +371 +105 +RIVES, pop. 2900. _Inn:_ +Poste. Situated about 1 m. from the station, on the Fure. It has +some of the largest paper-mills in France, as well as some considerable +forges. A great proportion of the inhabitants employ themselves in +the weaving of silk and linen by hand-looms. The parish church was built +in the 14th cent. Here are the ruins of the castle of Châteaubourg, +destroyed by Richelieu in 1626. Branch line from Rives to St. Rambert, +35 m. W., on the Lyons and Marseilles line (see page 43). + + +PARIS +MODANE +378 +98 +VOIRON, 939 ft., pop. +12,000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Cours; Poste. Coaches and gigs await +passengers for the Grande Chartreuse, 15 m. distant by the +village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, which is 9 m. from Voiron and +6 from the Grande Chartreuse. Fare, 5 frs. Voiron is a busy +town on the river Morge, with important silk, linen, and cloth +manufactories. Here the monks of the Grande Chartreuse have large +premises for the sale of their famous cordials, which they distil, not +in the monastery itself, but in a large building a little beyond St. +Laurent. The road from Voiron to the Grande Chartreuse joins the road +from Voreppe just before reaching the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, +distant from both stations 9 m., 1344 ft., pop. 2000. _Inns:_ +Princes; Nord. After leaving St. Laurent we pass on our right the +distillery of the monks, and then ascend by a narrow gorge, among fine +woods and perpendicular cliffs, to the convent, consisting of an immense +square building, garnished with pavilions, situated on a narrow plateau +3200 ft. above the sea-level, at the base of the Grand Som, which towers +3460 ft. higher, easily ascended from this place in about 3 hrs. This +monastery, the head establishment of the Carthusian friars, was founded +by St. Bruno, the originator of the order, in 1084. At first it +consisted only of a small chapel, with six poor cells, the habitations +of St. Bruno and his followers, built in what was then an almost +inaccessible spot among rocks and forests. + +The Grande Chartreuse now contains from 70 to 75 monks, each provided +with a suite of three small upper and two lower chambers, and a small +garden. They pray 3 hrs. every day, the rest of their time being +occupied in cultivating their gardens and working at any of the +handicrafts they understand, and in the preparation of their simple +vegetable fare. On Thursdays they take together a 3 hrs. +324 + +walk in the surrounding woods, during which time they may converse; and +on feast-days they all dine together, when also they may converse. +Animal food and linen clothing are prohibited. At 7 a.m. they attend mass, excepting on Sundays, when +the hour is 8 a.m. Vespers are said at +4 p.m., and matins at a quarter to 12 +midnight. Visitors who wish to see the monks should endeavour to be at +the chapel-door at any of these hours. For gentlemen guests there is +ample accommodation in the convent, clean beds, three large +dining-rooms, good wholesome food and excellent water. The men-servants, +of whom there are 59, inhabit the top story; the wives, however, of +these servants, not being allowed to enter the convent, dwell in a house +a few yards distant kept by nuns. It is in this house also that ladies +who accompany gentlemen must lodge, as no female is allowed to enter the +monastery. + +Their principal revenue is derived from the sale of the liqueurs they +distil at St. Laurent, and which are sold both wholesale and retail at +Voiron, at the following prices:—Liqueur verte, 8 frs. the +litre bottle; liqueur jaune, 6 frs.; liqueur blanche, +4 frs. + +From the monastery the ascent is made of the Grand Som, 6660 ft., in +about 3 hrs. It is necessary to make a considerable detour before +commencing the ascent. The first point reached is the Chapelle St. +Bruno, erected on the supposed site of the Hermitage. The view from the +top, though limited, is very beautiful. Coach to Grenoble, 17½ m. S., +5 frs. Guests in the monastery should pay 6 to 7 frs. per +day. + +Moirans. Voreppe. Grenoble. + + +PARIS +MODANE +381½ +94½ +MOIRANS, pop. 1000. +_Inn:_ H. de Paris. Junction with branch line to Valence, +50 m. S.W., passing, at about half-way, St. Marcellin, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ +Poste; Courriers. From St. Marcellin a coach runs daily to the +picturesque village of Pont-en-Royan, on the Saône, 11 m. S., +whence another coach runs to Die by the Grands Goulets and Chapelle. +(For Die, see +p. 47.) + +385 +91 +VOREPPE, pop. 3000. +_Inn:_ Paris. Passengers for the Grande Chartreuse may alight here +also, from which it is 15 m. distant. + + +PARIS +MODANE +394 +82 +GRENOBLE, pop. 46,000, +and 702 ft. above the sea, beautifully situated on the Isère, by far the +greater part being on the left bank, while on the other there is a mere +strip hemmed in between the river and the steep declivities of the +Bastile. _Hotels:_ in the Place Grenette, the *Monnet; Europe; the +two principal hotels. Fronting the promenade, in the Rue Montorge, is +the Trois Dauphins, frequented by commercial travellers. +Napoleon I. on his way from Elba lodged in this house from the 7th +to the 9th March 1815. He slept in room +325 + +No. 9. Among the cheaper second-class houses are the H. des Alpes; +Marseille; *Bayard; all near each other and to the Place Grenette. Of +the small houses at the station, the best is the H. Savoie. Temple +Protestant at the W. end of the Rue Lesdiguières. Pleasant excursions +for a very small sum may be taken to all the important places in the +neighbourhood by means of the rail and the diligences and omnibuses +which start from the Place Grenette. On the road to the railway station +is a large and handsome hospital, founded in the 11th cent, by St. +Hugues. A little way down, on the other side of the river, is the +Esplanade, a very large oblong square, 430 yards by 120, surrounded +by trees, much frequented on feast-days. The band plays in the Jardin de +Ville, off the Place Grenette. + +Grenoble: Coaches. Bastile. + +From the Place de la Halle coaches start for Sassenage, Nogarey, +Seyssenet, and Seyssins; from the P. Notre Dame for Domene and +Gières; from the P. Grenette for La Chartreuse, time 4 to 5 hrs., +fare 5 frs.; also to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans, 6 frs., 7 +hrs. + +The most important place to visit in the neighbourhood is the summit +of the Bastile, 915 ft. above the river. To reach +it cross the river by the bridge highest up, then ascend by the first +road to the left in the village of La Tronche, beyond the gate. After +numerous windings by a bullock-cart-road through vineyards, on the side +of the mountain exposed to the S., a square house is attained on +the plateau behind the fort. The view is magnificent, but it is still +better from the peak immediately above, where there is one of the +quarries of argillaceous siliceous limestone, extensively used for +making cement. Ascend either by the continuation of the same +bullock-road or by the steep footpath. The isolated mountain, so +prominent from the village of La Tronche, is Mt. Eynard, 4846 ft. +Although Grenoble is of great antiquity, all that remains of its early +history are some fragments of the walls built by Diocletian. The most +interesting of the buildings is the Palais des Dauphins, now the Palais +de Justice. +Grenoble: Bayard. St. André. +In the square in front is a bronze statue of Bayard, one of the most +illustrious heroes of a chivalrous age, esteemed by his contemporaries +the model of soldiers and of men of honour. Born in 1476 at the +neighbouring castle of Pontcharrá, he died at Rebecq on the 30th April +1524 from wounds received at the battle of Romagnane, and was buried in +the church of the Minimes, 1¼ m. from Grenoble, whence in 1823 his +ashes were removed to the church of St. André and deposited in the tomb +in the N. transept. St. André, founded in the 13th cent., was +the private chapel of the Dauphins. From the intersection of the +transepts rises +326 + +a fine tower, terminating with a steeple 183 ft. high. Adjoining is the +Hôtel de Ville, fronting the promenade. The tower of the 12th cent, +attached to the Hôtel de Ville stands on foundations laid by +Diocletian. + +Grenoble: Library. + +E. by the Rues du Palais and Brocherie is Notre Dame, from the 10th +to the 15th cent. Next the altar is a beautifully-wrought stone +tabernacle, and behind it, in the aisle, the chapel of St. Hugues, 13th +cent. At the S. end of the town are the best streets and houses, the +Place de la Constitution, and the Botanic Gardens. The Préfecture +occupies the entire S. side of the “Place.” Behind are the Botanic +Gardens and the Natural History Museum. Opposite the Prefecture, in a +handsome building, are the class-rooms of law, science, and literature. +On the E. side are the Artillery School and a large handsome edifice +containing the public library and the picture gallery. It is 279 ft. +long and 156 ft. wide, and cost £67,585. The Library, open every day except +Monday, contains 150,000 vols. and nearly 2000 manuscripts. There is a +comfortable reading-room open to all. The great hall, 204 ft. long and +44 ft. wide, is lined with shelves of books in three stages, and lighted +by handsome cupolas. Round the sides, under glass, are displayed +richly-illuminated manuscripts, while down the centre are other glass +cases containing medals and antiquities, many belonging to prehistoric +times. Among the MSS. is a Bible (imperfect) translated into French by +Raoul de Sestre in 1377 by order of Charles V.; also a New +Testament, 12th cent., and another in Vaudois, 13th cent. + +Grenoble: Picture Gallery. + +The Picture Gallery, open also every day excepting Monday, contains +550 paintings in four spacious halls, of which the centre one is the +largest and contains likewise the best pictures. The principal artists +are:—Albani, Alfani, Allori, Battoni, Bellini, Blanc-Fontaine, +Bloemaert, Bloemen, Bol, Bonifazio, Bouchet, Breughel, Bronzino, +Canaletto, Ph. Champaigne, Cock, Coypel, Crayer, Dagnan, Desportes, +C. Dolce, Gustave Doré (landscape), Dubuisson, Faure, Feti, Flink, +Foschi, Fouquières, Fragonard, Franquelin, Tadeo Gaddi, Gautier, Claude +Gellée, Gerard, Giordano, Glauber, Guardi, E. Hebert, Heusch, +Holbeina, Jordaens, Jouvenet, G. Lacroix, Lafosse, Lanfranc, Lepic, +Licinio, Maltais Le, G. Manni, Massé, Meulen, P. Mignard, +Millet, Monnayer, Montessuy, Moor, J. Ouvrié, Pannini, Parrocel, +Perugino, Piombo, Procaccini, Rigaud, Rivera, Romano, Roos, Rubens, +Ruisdael, Rysbraek, Salvator Rosa, Sassoferrato, Sneyders, Sueur, +D. Teniers, Terburg, Thielen, Thulden, Tintoretto, Uden, Valentin, +Van den +327 + +Veldt, Van Loo, P. Vannucci, Verelst, P. Veronese, Vos. Off the last +room of the picture gallery is a chamber containing the busts and +portraits of the most famous Dauphinois. Round the room are the +Dauphins, Dukes Guigues I. to VI., Jean I. and II., +Humbert I. and II.—Bayard, 1476-1524; Lesdiguières, +1543-1626; Vauconson, 1709- 1782; Condillac, 1715-1780; Champollion, +1791-1831, etc. Upstairs is a collection of valuable antique furniture, +porcelain, carved ivory, and other ornaments; also one of those models +of the Bastile which were distributed among the eighty-three departments +of France after the fall of that stronghold of despotism on the 14th of +July 1790. On one side of the picture gallery is the Rue Lesdiguières +leading to the Temple Protestant. +Grenoble: Museum. +On the way is passed the entrance to the Botanic Gardens, with the +Museum of Mineralogy and Natural History. The great interest of the +museum consists in the well-arranged collection of specimens +illustrating the organic and inorganic products of this part of the +Alps. The birds and ores are well represented. Near the gate leading out +to La Tronche is the church of St. Laurent, 11th cent. The crypt, 6th +cent., is supported on twenty-four slender marble columns from 4 to 5 +ft. high. + +Grenoble: Manufactures. +Twelve million pairs of gloves are manufactured annually at Grenoble, +representing a value of £1,600,000. The material is given out to the +workmen, both men and women, upwards of 25,000, who make it into gloves +in their own houses. Certain improvements introduced by Xavier Jouvin in +1840 gave a great impulse to the glove trade and manufacture of +Grenoble, but for some years both have been seriously on the decline. +Excellent liqueurs, principally of cherries, are made in the department. +The wines are indifferent, chiefly because the vines are not well +selected. + +Courrier every night at 9 to La Motte, 15 m. N., for 2 frs. +Returns next day at 8. Coach daily to Barcelonnette, time 11 hrs. (see p. 341), +passing Monètier, Allemont, the ancient Roman station of Mutatio on the +Roman road and the Durance. +7½ m. N.E. are the ruins of N. D. de Chardavan, in a narrow +valley. 1¼ m. N.E. is St. Geniès, with a saline sulphurous spring, +and strata of anhydrite gypsum, black marble, anthracite, and lead +ore. + + +opp. 326 +the french +WALDENSIAN VALLEYS + +see caption + + +Sassenage. + +3¾ m. N. from Grenoble by the Pont du Drac is Sassenage. Omnibuses start from the Place +Grenette, fare 40 c. The Sassenage et Noyarez omnibuses leave their +passengers at the entrance into the town near the H. Faure, but the +Sassenage-Fontaine omnibuses go up to the “Place” and stop before the +inn *H. du Commerce. To the left of the inn is the house of the +guide for Les Cuves, whose services are necessary to be able to cross +the Furon and the torrent from the Cuves. +328 + +This is a most enjoyable little trip from Grenoble, and Sassenage itself +makes a very pleasant residence in May. An immense number of small +vehicles are constantly running to the Pont du Drac; whence it is a very +pleasant walk of a little more than 2½ m. to Sassenage. The +suspension bridge over the Drac was one of the first of this kind +constructed in France, but instead of being hung on chains it is +supported by long narrow plates held together by strong pivots. The +gigantic and lofty cliffs about Sassenage are composed of limestone +strata of great thickness, much valued for building purposes. The path +to the Cuves commences at the left side (approaching) of the H. du +Commerce, and, having passed through a doorway, enters a kind of park +and ascends by the right side of the Furon. About 1½ m. up is a +great cavern, so sharply cut that it looks as if it had been made +artificially, out of which rushes a copious stream of pure water. After +crossing the torrent, an ascent is made of a little more than 150 ft. to +an enormous vault, within which are two caves, called Les Cuves, out of +each of which rushes a great volume of water, which united passes under +the cavern below called the Four des Fées. After this two or three +beautiful cascades, quite near, are visited, and the Furon is crossed +and the return made by the left side of this most picturesque river. +From the Cuves side is seen part of the ruins of the old castle of the +Berangers, to which a series of steps leads up, commencing near the +mills, left bank. Their modern castle, built in the 17th cent., stands +within a large park adjoining the village. The large halls are furnished +with antique furniture and hung with paintings, a large proportion +being family and historical portraits. The bedrooms of the marquis and +marchioness are hung with old tapestry. The so-called Sassenage cheese +is made in the mountains around Villard and Lans, some miles to the +south of Grenoble. The general quality is not so good as formerly, as +more of the cream now is used for making butter. + +Grenoble to Briançon. + +Grenoble +to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de Lautaret (see +map p. 304). Distance, 69 m. +E. Diligence daily. When there is much snow, the Col is passed on +sledges. Time, 15 to 18 hrs., according to the state of the road. Fare, +16 and 14 frs. As the diligence from Briançon to Grenoble stops several +hours at Bourg d’Oisans, it is a good plan to alight there for the +night. This magnificent mountain-road, commenced by Napoleon I. in +1804, opened in 1842, and finished in 1868, makes a charming walking +excursion; while from almost every village grand mountain tours may be +made. Bourg d’Oisans, with a comfortable inn, the H. de France, +makes capital quarters. There are besides very fair inns at Le Freney, +H. d’Europe; La Grave, H. Juge; Le Dauphin, Inn Dode; Le +Monètier, H. Alliey, and even in the Hospice itself on the top of +the Pass, where beds and food may be had at most reasonable charges. + +Claix. Vizille. Séchilienne. + +5 m. from Grenoble by a straight road bordered with elms, between the +river Drac and the railway, is the village of Claix. _Inn:_ H. de France, with a bridge +across the Drac, having a span of 85 ft. and 53 ft. above the river, +built in 1611 by Lesdiguières. 5½ m. +329 + +farther S. by a road between poplars is Vizille, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Imbert; Lion +d’Or, near each other; their omnibuses await passengers at the station. +A manufacturing town on the Romanche, in a valley between high +mountains. 15 m. from Grenoble is Séchilienne, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Petit +Versailles, where the horses are changed. A village of one street, +magnificently situated, 1182 ft. above the sea, in the valley of the +Romanche, surrounded by steep mountains towering above each other. To +the S. is Mont Taillefer, 9390 ft., ascended from Séchilienne in about 6 +hrs. In 1½ hr. the hamlet of La Morte is reached, whence the ascent lies +through pastures and pine woods to some steep rocks. The track then, +leaving on the right a small tarn, keeps along the base of the rocks to +an abandoned mine, where it runs along the ridge called the Arete de +Brouffier, overlooking the valley of the Combe de Valloire on the right +and the Combe de Gavet on the left. The ridge leads to a small plateau, +usually covered with snow; whence a second ridge leads up to the highest +peak. + +From Séchilienne the diligence passes through the hamlet of Riouperoux, +in a narrow defile, among broken masses of rocks brought down by the +terrible flood of the 14th September 1219, which desolated the plain +from Oisans to Grenoble. 22 m. from Grenoble is the hamlet of Livet +at the foot of the Grand Galbert, on the Romanche near its junction with +the Olle. Up the Olle are the foundries of Allemont and the +argentiferous lead mines of Chalanche. Here is also the Pointe de +l’Infernet, 8184 ft., at the entrance to the defile leading up to the +Bella Donna. + +Bourg d’Oisans. Ecrins. Road to the +Ecrins. + +29 m. from Grenoble is Le Bourg d’Oisans, 2190 ft, pop. 3100. +_Inns:_ France; Milan; Poste. As the diligence from Briançon +remains at the Bourg some hours, it is a good plan to break the journey +here and start next morning. The village is situated near the Romanche, +surrounded either by the vertical cliffs of mountains, upwards of 1000 +ft. high, or by their steep but carefully-cultivated slopes studded with +houses and hamlets. An easy excursion of 4 hrs. may be made to Lac +Blanc, 6170 ft. above Le Bourg, one of the highest lakes for its +dimensions in the Alps. It is nearly ½ m. long and 110 yds. wide, +and commands an extensive view. From the Bourg a tract mounts nearly due +N. in 3 hrs. by the villages of La Garde and Huez to the plateau of +Brandes with ruins attributed to the Romans, abandoned mines and +valuable deposits of anthracite worked in several places. 1 hr. farther +is Lake Blanc. + +Many interesting mountain excursions may be taken from this town, of +which the most important is to the Ecrin Group, by Vosc, 7½ m., St. Christophe +13 m., and La Berarde other 10½ m. Entire distance to La +Berarde from Oisans, 23½ m. A few miles above Oisans we leave +the narrow gorge of the Romanche and follow the course of the Venéon to +the hamlet of Pont Ecofier, commanding a magnificent view of the whole +valley of Oisans, confined in its mural precipices, terminated by the +distant peaks of the Bella Donna. In the extreme distance a glacier +summit rises in glorious perspective precisely in the +330 + +prolongation of the valley; while midway stands Venosc, pop. 900; +_Inn:_ Paquet, on an elevated slope, clothed with exquisite verdure +and noble walnut woods, on the right bank of the Venéon. Exactly +opposite Venose are the green pastures leading to the Col de la Muselle, +8300 ft. As the tributary valleys do not join the principal valley at +common level, but are considerably higher, a waterfall, often of +great beauty, almost invariably accompanies the meeting of the streams. +In ascending the valley of St. Christophe the gorge soon becomes +narrower, the rounded forms characterising the intruded lias are quickly +left, and, the torrent having been passed on a substantial bridge, +a very short distance brings us to a scene of sublime desolation. +A mountain on the right hand has at some remote time crumbled into +fragments and literally filled the valley from side to side with a +colossal heap of ruins. Through and amongst these winds a narrow path +practicable for mules, whilst the river dashes from rock to rock with +excessive commotion, sometimes passing under the fragments which it was +unable to displace. One huge slab of granite, wide enough for three +carriages to pass abreast, forms a natural and ponderous bridge, +harmonising with the desolation of the scene. On the right stands the +romantic village of Enchastraye, a hamlet consisting of a few +houses perched on a projecting rock in a tributary valley above one of +the beautiful cascades. +St. Christophe. +La Berarde. +Not much farther on, the road leaves the stream and leads up the face of +a rough hill to St. +Christophe, pop. 600, which gives its name to the valley. Just +before reaching the hamlet a bridge crosses a very wild and narrow +cleft, through which foams a wild glacier stream called the Torrent du +Diable. 2 hrs. farther up the valley is the village of Les Etages, +commanding one of the finest Alpine views which the admirers of Swiss +scenery can desire, terminated by the Montagne d’Arsine, standing +immediately above the hamlet of La Berarde. It presents a series of +rocky pinnacles in manifold rows, between which the snow can scarcely +adhere; and as seen from Les Etages, especially by the morning light, is +comparable to the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc, while the valley which +stretches beyond it to the foot of Mont Pelvoux may almost rival the +scenery of the Allée Blanche. La Berarde, which is placed in the midst of this +savage landscape, consists of a few poor houses, with a small chapel +distinguished from the rest by a belfry. Cultivation ceases just at the +village; a few stunted pines are found still higher up, but there +is no wood worth mentioning in the valley above Venose. This excessive +sterility peculiarly characterises the valleys of Dauphiné. The village +of La Berarde is at a height of only 5710 ft., that of St. Christophe is +4825, and of Venose 3365, but the character of the scenery is, like that +of Switzerland, at a greater elevation. The unbroken rocky surfaces +deceive the eye to such an extent that it is difficult to realise the +enormous scale of these mountains. To ascertain their height we must +attempt to mount them, and even then the eye has some difficulty to +submit to the testimony of the limbs. The ascent of the Pointe des +Ecrins is made from La Berarde, but it is extremely dangerous. Mont +331 + +Pelvoux is not accessible from La Berarde, but is ascended from Val Louise (see p. 333, and map p. 304). + + +Le Freney. La Grave. + +Continuation of Road from Grenoble to Briançon. + +After Le Bourg d’Oisans the road ascends by the side of the Romanche +flowing several hundred feet below in a deep narrow ravine, by the side +of La Combe de Malaval. 8 m. from Le Bourg and 37¼ from Grenoble is +Le Freney, 3085 ft., +pop. 900; _Inn:_ H. Europe, with mines up in the mountains but +of difficult access. It is in these mines that the crystals and the +species of quartz containing gold are found, for which the Dauphiné is +so celebrated among mineralogists. + +2 m. farther, among masses of rocks, is the hamlet of Le Dauphin, with a +small inn. From this place, until the summit of the Col de Lautaret is +passed, every gap in the mountains shows a glittering glacier or a +soaring peak. About 3½ m. farther up, near the hamlet of Les +Freaux, a tributary of the Romanche pours its torrent over a +precipice of granite, forming a beautiful cascade. 45 m. from +Grenoble and 24 m. from Briançon is + +La Grave, 5000 ft.; +_Inn:_ H. Juge; pop. 1500. Built on a slope rising from the +road, with, behind, almost inaccessible cliffs containing copper mines, +and opposite, on the other side of the river, the great glacier which +streams from the summit of the Meije, 13,080 ft. To the E. of the Meije +is the Bec de l’Homme, 11,372 ft., with a smaller glacier. The ridge +called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W., and is crowned by numerous +aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The two highest are towards the +eastern and western ends of the ridge, and are rather more than a mile +apart. Any attempts to ascend the highest or western aiguille must be +made from the northern side. The view of this mountain from the village +of La Grave can hardly be praised too highly; it is one of the very +finest road views in the Alps, and one cannot speak in exaggerated terms +of its jagged ridges, torrential glaciers, and tremendous precipices. +The perpendicular cliff, extending from the Glacier des Etançons to the +summit of the Meije, is about 3200 ft. From La Grave the road leads +through a bleak region and several tunnels to Villard d’Arene, +4½ m. from La Grave and 32 from Briançon, a miserable hamlet, +considerably under the high road, at the foot of the Bec de l’Homme. + +Col de Lautaret. Le Casset. + +51¾ m. E. from Grenoble and 17¼ m. W. from Briançon is the Hospice of the Col de +Lautaret, a very fair inn on the summit of Pass, 6791 ft., +where refreshments are taken and the horses changed. The two diligences +pass it daily. An iron plate on the house indicates that it is 11 +kilomètres (6⅘ m.) from La Grave and 13 kilomètres (8 m.) from +Le Monètier. The pass commands a grand view down the gorge of Malaval +and towards the lofty towering Meije or Aiguille du Midi, 13,081 ft. +above the sea. From one side of the pass the Romanche descends to +Grenoble, and from the other the Guisanne to Briançon. From the Hospice +the road traverses several galleries, and passes by a mine of anthracite +coal not far from the village of Lauzet. +332 + +The discovery of this mine has been a great boon to the inhabitants of +this region, where wood is so scarce and where the winter is so long and +inclement. 2½ m. from Lauzet and considerably below the road is the +hamlet of Le Casset, +at the foot of Mt. Vallon, 10,136 ft., at the entrance to the ravine of +the Torrent Tabue, descending from the great glaciers which spread +themselves over the eastern slopes of Mont Pelvoux. When the snow is +melted the effect of the sun upon them is splendid. 60 m. from +Grenoble and 9 from Briançon is + +Le Monètier. Briançon. + +Le Monètier de +Briançon, 4898 ft. above the sea, surrounded with barley-fields, +pop. 2600, on the Guisanne, near the foot of St. Marguerite, 8328 ft., +which, like Mont Vallon, belongs to the Pelvoux group. Horses changed +here. _Inn:_ Alliey; mineral bath establishment, with hot +sulphurous springs. Mines of anthracite. The road then passes the +villages of Les Guibertes, 4689 ft.; La Salle, with cloth and night-cap +manufactories; and St. Chaffrey, 3¼ m. from Briançon and 4299 ft. +above the sea. 69 m. E. from Grenoble is + +Briançon, 4335 ft., pop. +6000. _Inn:_ H. de la Paix. Temple Protestant. The Brigantium +of the Romans, and now a fortified town of the first class, with eight +strong fortresses, which guard this important entrance into France from +Italy. The town stands on the steep sides of an eminence rising +vertically from the Durance, here a roaring mountain torrent hemmed in +between the cliffs of the Mont Infernet, with strong forts on all the +salient points up to the very summit, 7810 ft. above the sea. At this +part the Durance is spanned by a bridge of one arch, 120 ft. wide and +108 ft. above the river, erected in 1734, in the reign of Louis XV. On +the right side of the river, above the town, is the Fort du Château, and +opposite, on the left side of the river, are the Trois Têtes, the +largest of the forts. The views from them are very extensive, especially +from the fort Pointe du Jour. Carriage up to it, 30 frs. Permission to +visit the forts must be procured from the commandant. The large building +down the Durance seen from the bridge, in the suburb called St. +Catherine, is a manufactory where the waste of silk on cocoons is carded +and prepared for spinning. About 800 people are employed. The women earn +14d. per day, working from 5 in the morning to 6 p.m., 1½ hr. allowed for meals. The longitudinal +streets of Briançon are narrow and steep, little better than staircases, +down the centre of each of which runs a stream of water in a marble +gutter, with such an impulse that all manner of garbage thrown into it +quickly disappears. At the foot of Briançon is the fertile valley formed +by the union of the Guisanne with the Durance, surrounded by +carefully-cultivated mountains studded with villages. All the Briançon +coaches start from the Place du Temple, in front of the church. “The +neighbourhood of Briançon abounds in rare plants. Amongst them may be +mentioned Astragalus austriacus and A. vesicarius, Oxytropus +Halleri, Prunus brigantiaca, Telephium Imperati, Brassica repanda, +Berardia subacaulis, Rhaponticum heleniifolium, Crepis pygmæa, Androsace +septentrionalis, and Bulbocodium vernum.” —Ball’s _Western +Alps_. + +333 + + +Val Louise. Grand Pelvoux. + +The +great excursion from Briançon is the ascent of the Pelvoux group, +whose highest peak is 12,975 ft. It can only be effected, however, in +favourable weather and with experienced guides. A wheel-road +extends by the village of La Bessée to Val Louise, 3780 ft., whence a +path ascends by the hamlets of Claux and Aléfroide. The Ville de Val Louise lies near +the union of the Valley des Entraigues with the principal branch of the +Val Louise, called the Aléfroide, stretching up to the foot of the +monarch of the group, the Grand Pelvoux itself, which, although at no +great distance, cannot be seen from the village on account of the hill +which rises immediately behind. (See p. 345, and map +p. 304.) + +Cesanne. + +Briançon to +Oulx, 17 m. N.E. by diligence, 4 hrs., 7 frs., by a +beautiful road winding up fir-clad mountains disclosing charming views +of the valley of the Durance and of the Mont Pelvoux group. On the +summit of the Pass or of Mont Genèvre, the Mons Jovis of the Romans, is +the village of Genèvre (pop. 400), with the French custom-house, 6476 +ft. above the sea or 2141 ft. above Briançon, and 7 m. from it and +10 m. from Oulx. An iron plate indicates that it is 11 kilomètres +from Briançon, 61 from Embrun, 10 from Cesanne, and 40 or almost +25 m. from Susa (p. 291). A few +yards beyond is an obelisk which marks the boundary between France and +Italy, and which commemorates in French, Latin, and Italian the opening +of this road in 1807 under Napoleon I., and its restoration or +rather repair in 1835. 5 m. farther is Cesanne, at the confluence of the Dora with the +Ripa, 4420 ft., or nearly at the same height as Briançon. Italian +custom-house. _Inn:_ Croix Blanche, where the horses are changed. +A post-road leads from Cesanne to Perosa, +28 m. E. (p. 307). 5 m. from Cesanne is Oulx, 3514 ft., +with a good inn, the Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, close to the station. The +diligence halts at and starts from the station. (See also p. 291. From Oulx rail to Turin, p. 291.) The road between Briançon and Oulx forms a +pleasant and easy walking excursion, which can be considerably shortened +on the French side by following the footpath. + +Grenoble to Gap +by diligence, 62 m. S. The Grenoble diligence goes only the length +of Corps, where the Gap passengers enter the diligence for Gap. + + +Grenoble to Corps. + +By diligence, 39½ m. S., 9 hrs., 9 frs., by a very beautiful road. From +Grenoble the road extends nearly in a straight line between the railway +and the Drac to Claix, 5 m. S. (pp. 328 and +345), and thence in another straight line +between poplars to Vizille, 5½ m. farther. Coach from Vizille to La +Motte les Bains. From Vizille the diligence takes nine horses, and +having crossed the Romanche, ascends by the flanks of Mont Conex in 2 +hrs. to the village of La Frey +or Laffrey, 2000 ft. above, and 4½ m. from Vizille, and +15 from Grenoble, in a cold situation on the top of this pass, about +3000 ft. above the sea; the horses +334 + +are changed, and time given to take a cup of coffee. On this plateau, +immediately beyond the village, is Lake Laffrey, 3050 ft. above the sea, +2 m. long and 875 yards wide. At its S. end is the village of the +Petit-Chat, whence commences the Lake Pierre-Châtel. To the right or +west of the road is Mt. Peychagnard, with rich anthracite coalmines, +some of the beds being from 10 to 15 yards thick. The diligence next +passes through Pierre-Châtel, 20 m. from Grenoble, +a considerable village, with to the E. Mont Tabor, 7829 +ft. + +La Mure. Corps. + +23¾ m. S. from Grenoble and 38¼ m. N. from Gap is La Mure, 2860 ft., pop. 3800, the largest +town on the road, with the ancient castle of Beaumont, nail +manufactories, and the anthracite mines of Availlans, 3½ m. +distant. Horses changed. Between La Mure and La Salle, the next village, +is perhaps the grandest scenery, the road running along the edges of +high cliffs or in the profound depths of the ravine of the Bonne, which +it crosses by the Pont-Haut. The hamlet of La Salle is exactly half-way +between Grenoble and Gap, 31 m. from each, and 8½ m. from +Corps. The road, after passing the village of Quet and the gorge of La +Salette, arrives at + +Corps, 39½ m. from Grenoble, +on a plateau 814 ft. above the confluence of the Drac with the Souloise, +or 3156 ft. above the sea. Pop. 1500. _Inns:_ *Poste; Palais; next +each other. Mules for La Salette with man, 4½ frs. Vehicles, 5 frs. +the seat, or 15 frs. the whole. La Salette is 5½ m. from Corps, and +2750 ft. above it, by a wheel-road. The ascent by mule takes 2½ hrs. It +is better to descend on foot. The excursion to La Salette is very +picturesque, and, like all the journeys among the mountains of the +department of Isère, of great interest to the botanist and geologist. +The inhabitants of these mountains wander in winter to distant parts +selling their plants, bulbs, and seeds. From the aromatic varieties most +justly famous liqueurs are distilled at the Chartreuse, La Salette, +Grenoble, and elsewhere. The rocks produce nearly every kind of metal, +one of the best cements, and many beautiful crystals and marbles, of +which the black variety of Beaumont is the most celebrated. + + +La Salette. Church of Notre Dame de la Salette. + +LA SALETTE. + + +This place, formerly a dreary and desolate mountain plateau, is now +visited by thousands of pilgrims, especially on the great feast-day of +Notre Dame de la Salette, sanctioned by Pio IX. himself. The church, +a handsome and substantial edifice, built in 1860, of unpolished +marble, is 146 ft. long and 49 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high, inside +measure. Eighteen columns surround the nave and choir, while attached +pillars support the walls, all covered with votive offerings. The pulpit +was a gift from Belgian votaries. The façade, with three doorways, has +on each corner a handsome square tower. The expenses, which were very +great in a region of such difficult access, and where winter lasts six +months, were defrayed by spontaneous contributions. Opposite the façade +are well-executed colossal figures in bronze, the gift of a Spaniard, +representing the events of the story. On the south side of the choir +335 + +a door opens into the large and spacious building occupied by the nuns, +and on the north side another door opens into a similar building +occupied by the monks. The hotel accommodation in each is exactly the +same. The pension price, including wine and everything else, is 5½ frs. +per day. Visitors can have a good meat breakfast for 1½ fr., dinner 2½ +frs., supper 2 frs., a bowl of café au lait ½ fr., a cup +of café noir 25 c. Both the monks and the nuns are very obliging. Books +approved of by the bishop of Grenoble are sold in the “magasin” of the +establishment, giving the history of the apparition, from which the +following is extracted:— “On the 19th of September 1846, at 2.30 +p.m., was seen by a girl and a boy in +the place where the statue now is, a figure seated on a stone +shedding tears so copiously that they caused a dried-up spring, about 2 +ft. in diameter and 2½ ft. deep, a little to her left, to flow +forth freely. Since then it has been fed by a pipe, and has been called +the miraculous fountain. The girl’s name was Fraçoise-Melanie Calvat +Mathieu, 15 years old, and the boy’s Pierre-Maximin Giraud, 11 years +old, both employed as cowherds, and both so ignorant that they could +neither read nor write. They understood only the patois, and had such +frail memories that the girl had as yet been hardly able to remember a +few lines of the catechism, while it had taken the boy three years to +learn the Pater Noster and the Avé Maria. The statues of the children in +the path between the railings indicate the place where they were +standing when they first saw the figure. When the apparition became +aware of their presence it arose, and calling them to her, said in +French, shedding tears abundantly all the time, ‘If my people will not +submit, I shall be obliged to let loose the arm of my son; it is so +heavy and weighty that I cannot retain it any longer. You may pray and +do what you like, you will never be able to recompense the labour I have +taken for you. I have given you six days for work, and have +reserved for myself the seventh, but they will not grant me it; it is +that that makes the arm of my son so heavy. Those who drive carts cannot +swear without using (inserting) the name of my son. These are the two +things which make the arm of my son so burdensome.’ She continued a +little longer in French till, observing the children did not understand +her, she added in patois a long harangue in the same strain, +a diatribe on the blasphemy of the age and the desecration of the +Sabbath— ‘only some old women go to mass.’ After her speech, and +having twice charged the children to make known her discourse, ‘a tout +mon peuple,’ she glided up the path between the railings, followed by +the children, to the eminence where the colossal statue stands with the +statues of the children before it, and, having ascended 5 ft., she +disappeared, looking to the S.E.” That this being was really Mary was +acknowledged by Pio IX., who sanctioned the institution of a feast-day +in her honour, and several plenary indulgences for pilgrimages and other +acts of devotion, to Notre Dame de la Salette. On the 6th August 1867 +the worship (culte) of her was publicly established in Rome. The first +stone of the church, up on the mountain near the site where Mary +appeared to the children, +336 + +was laid by Bruillard, bishop of Grenoble, on 25th May 1852, assisted by +Chatrousse, bishop of Valence, in the presence of 15,000 pilgrims. In +the churches all over France and in many of those in Belgium are +pictures representing N. D. de la Salette addressing the children. +In the litany addressed to Mary of Salette she is appealed to as “the +tower of David,” “the gate of heaven,” “the morning star,” “the refuge +of sinners,” “the queen conceived without sin,” “the healer of +diseases,” “thou by whose supplications the arm of the irritated Lord +against us is held back,” “thou who hast said, If my people will not +submit I shall be forced to let go the arm of my son,” “thou who +continually beseechest thy divine son to have mercy upon us, pray for +us.” + +The lad, Pierre Maximin, after serving his time in the army, kept a shop +at Corps, upon which was written, “Objets de Piété vendus par Maximin +Giraud.” He died about the year 1880. Melanie, the girl, was sent to a +nunnery at Naples. A priest is said to have affirmed that the +pretended Mary was an eccentric lady called Mlle. Lamerlière, born near +Saint-Marcellin, Isère. + +From Corps either return to Grenoble or take the diligence to Gap, +22½ m. S. (See p. 333, and +map p. 304.) + +Gières. Domene. Goncelin. + + +PARIS +MODANE +398 +78 +GIÈRES. At this station +omnibuses await passengers for the baths of Uriage, 4 m. N., and +1358 ft. _Hotels:_ Grand Hôtel; Cercle; Ancien Hôtel; Des Bains; Du +Rocher. The bathing establishment is comfortable and commodious, and is +pleasantly situated in a narrow wooded valley, about 400 ft. higher than +Grenoble. The water contains common salt, sulphates of magnesia and +soda, and carbonate of lime, and rises in a deep valley at the junction +of granite and lias, which is, however, concealed for some way by an +immense mass of detritus, through which the spring forces itself. It is +conveyed 700 yards in a subterraneous conduit to the establishment, +whence it issues with a temp. of 71° Fahr. + + +PARIS +MODANE +401 +75 +DOMENE, pop. 2000. +_Inn:_ Hôtel du Commerce. From this village is generally made the +laborious ascent of the Pic de Belledonne, 9780 ft. above the sea-level. +Guides necessary. The first night is generally spent at the village of +Revel. Two days required. + + +PARIS +MODANE +412 +64 +GONCELIN, pop. 1600. +Station for Allevard-les Bains, 6¼ m. distant by an excellent road +through a beautiful country, in comfortable omnibuses awaiting +passengers at the station, fare 2 frs. Here also a coach awaits +passengers for Tourettes, pop. 400, in the opposite direction, upon the +right bank of the Isére. + +Allevard on the Breda, 1837 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. The +337 + +three principal hotels are within the park, and the prices are from 8½ +frs. to 12½ frs. per day, including everything. The Hôtel des Bains, +with the casino, theatre, and mineral water establishment. At the other +end of the park are the Louvre and the H. Parc. In the Place +contiguous to the Temple Protestant is the H. du Rhône, 8½ to 10½ +frs. In a garden of its own, Le Châlet. Near the diligence office, the +France. The H. Very. Nearly a mile from Allevard at the junction of +the lias with the primitive talc-slate rise the springs, temp. 61° +Fahr., with a great deal of free sulphuric acid gas, especially +efficacious in diseases of the throat and the respiratory organs, for +the cure of which the establishment is especially adapted, the apparatus +for inhalation and gargling being both complete and varied. + +Allevard possesses also important ironworks, where the rich carbonate of +iron ores from the neighbouring mountains are smelted. + +Among the easiest of the many delightful walks around Allevard is the +road that leads up the gorge of the Breda to what is called the “Fin du +Monde,” 1 m. distant, where masses of rock render it impracticable +to proceed farther. To reach it, walk up the left bank to a bridge at +the upper ironworks. Do not cross it, but continue on the left bank and +ascend the road to the right. Finger-posts indicate the rest of the way. +At one part of the road travellers are requested to pay a toll of 10 +sous. + +The ascent of the Brame Farine, 3983 ft., takes 1¾ hr. It is an elevated +point on the ridge between the valleys of the Breda and the Isère. 25 +min. from Allevard is the Tour de Treuil, 10th cent., the remains of a +castle belonging to the family of Crouy Chanel. From this a path ascends +through a ravine planted with walnut trees to the hamlet of Crozet. +Descend by sledge, 2 frs. + +There are a great many other excursions into the valleys and up the +mountains, either by carriage or on horseback, for which there is a +tariff by the authorities of the place. + +Sept Laux. Pontcharrá. + +The most remarkable of these excursions, and at the same time the most +difficult, is 9 m. up the valley of the Breda by the hamlet of +La Ferrière, to the Sept +Laux or Lakes, 7144 ft. above the sea-level, and the Glacier of Gleyzin, +9480 ft. above the sea-level. Time required to go, 14 hrs. constant +walking, but to the lakes only, about half that time. This series of +lakes, above 30 in all, lies in a wild gloomy ravine, shut in on all +sides by low bare peaks. They are fed by springs, and are not +accumulations of stagnant water derived from the melting snow. The banks +are surrounded with fragments of rock, covered with snow nearly the +whole year, while the highest of the lakes, Lake Blanc, is almost always +frozen over. Some of them contain trout, and a sluggish frog inhabits +the marshy margins. + + +PARIS +MODANE +418 +58 +PONTCHARRÁ station. +An omnibus awaits passengers for the village of Pontcharrá, pop. 2800, +_Inn:_ Domenjon, 1¼ m. distant. +From Pontcharrá the coach proceeds 5 m. E. to the village of La +338 + +Rochette, in a beautiful valley. Near Pontcharrá, and seen distinctly +from the station, is the castle in which Bayard was born. + + +PARIS +MODANE +426 +50 +LES MARCHES, a +straggling village overlooked by a hill, on which stands the church of +Notre Dame de Myans, with a colossal statue of the Virgin. Beyond are +some small lakes and mounds formed by landslips from Mt. Granier, 6520 +ft. 2½ m. from Les Marches is Montmélian, where passengers by this +route for Modane and Turin _change carriages_ and join the direct +line. For the rest of the journey to Modane (53 miles), see from Montmélian, p. 289. + + +Marseilles to Grenoble, + +190 m. N., by Gardanne, Aix, Pertuis, St. +Auban, Veynes, and Clelles. +Fare—first class, 36 frs. 70 c.; second, 27 frs. 55 c. Grenoble is +394 m. S.E. from Paris by Lyons (see p. 324). + + +GRENOBLE +190 +MARSEILLES. There are two ways from Marseilles to Aix, either by +Rognac 33 m., or by Gardanne 16¾ m. The Rognac route must be +chosen by those who desire to visit the aqueduct of Roquefavour (see p. 77). + +Gardanne. Pertuis. + + +MARSEILLES +GRENOBLE +11 +179 +GARDANNE, pop. 3500, on +the stream Jaret. Both here and at Septêmes are important coal-fields. +Southwards, towards the Bouches du Rhône, are seen the chimneys of +numerous tile, brick, and pottery works. From Gardanne a branch line +extends to Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles +and Cannes (p. 142), on which the only towns of +interest are Brignoles and St. Maximin. + + +MARSEILLES +GRENOBLE +18½ +171½ +AIX-en-provence (see p. 78). At Aix +change carriages for Rognac. 5 m. N. from Aix is La Calade station, +where a coach awaits passengers for St. Cannat, 5 m. N.W. (p. 80); and +Lambesc, 3½ m. +farther (p. 80). 5 m. S.W. from Lambesc is Pelissanne. +16 m. N. from Aix, or 34½ m. N. from Marseilles, is Meyrargues (see +p. 79). + + +MARSEILLES +GRENOBLE +38 +152 +PERTUIS, pop. 5800. +_Hotels:_ Reynaud; Thomas; both near each other. +Their omnibuses await passengers at the station. Situated 2 m. from +the Durance, at the junction of the branch line from Avignon, 48 m. +W., passing Cavaillon, the station for Apt, and L’Isle, the station for Vaucluse +(see pp. 64 and 66). The Marseilles canal from the Durance commences +near Pertuis +(p. 77). In the centre of Pertuis is the Tour d’Aigues, which was +part of the old fortifications. From Pertuis the country becomes +picturesque. 10 m. N. is the station of Mirabeau, pop. 800, with +the castle in which Mirabeau spent his boyhood, and in which his father +was born. + +339 + + +60 m. N. from Marseilles, and 130 m. S. from Grenoble, is Manosque, pop. +6200 (see pp. 166 +and 168). +4½ m. N. from Manosque is Volx village and station, with beds of +lignite. 69½ m. N. from Marseilles is La Brillanne, pop. 400, on +the Oraison. 3½ m. N. from Brillanne is the station and village of +Lurs, pop. 1000, on a hill overlooking +the Durance. It contains the convent of Alaun, visited by pilgrims, and +a Roman road called the Chemin-Seinet. + +Peyruis. + + +MARSEILLES +GRENOBLE +77½ +112½ +PEYRUIS, pop. 1000; +_Inn:_ Latil; curiously situated on the Durance, at the base of +cliffs of conglomerate more than 1000 ft. high, which by the action of +water have been cut up into tall pinnacles. + + +MARSEILLES +GRENOBLE +80½ +109½ +ST. AUBAN, pop. 250, +junction with line to Digne. (For Digne, see p. 166, and maps pp. 162 and 304.) + +Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie, +Seyne, Le Lauzet, and Thuiles, 53 m. E., by coach; time, 11 +hrs.; fare, 10 frs. 9 m. from Digne is La Javie, famous for plums; +pop. 500; H. de France, at the junction of the Bléonne with the +Arigeol. 2 m. beyond is Beaujeu, pop. 400, on the Combefère, whence +a narrow valley leads to the Col de Labouret, 3990 ft. Thence descend to +Le Vernet, pop. 300, on the Besse, with beds of gypsum, 19 m. from +Digne and 33 from Barcelonnette. Near Le Vernet is commenced the ascent +of the Col de Maure, 4708 ft.; from which descend to Seyne-les-Alpes, +pop. 2800, on the flanks of a mountain, and half-way between Digne and +Barcelonnette. It contains a church of the 11th and 12th cents. +18 m. from Barcelonnette, and 5 from Le Lauzet, is St. +Vincent, pop. 600, situated on a grassy eminence overlooking the Ubaye. +From Le Lauzet to Barcelonnette, see Gap to Barcelonnette, p. 341. + +Colmars. Sisteron. + +Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, St. +Thomas, Colmars, and Allos, 55 m. N.E. 10½ m. from +Digne and 4 from La Javie is Draix, pop. 200, on a confluent of the +Bléonne. 21¼ m. beyond is Colmars, pop. 1100, at the foot of Mts. Meunier and +Draye, on the Sence at its junction with the Verdon. Excellent cheese, +called Thorame. Cloth and saw mills. 5 m. beyond is Allos, pop. +1400, with a small inn, 18 m. from Barcelonnette. A short way from +Allos by the hamlet Champ Richard, in one of the wildest and most +sequestered valleys of the Alps, is Lake Allos, 7346 ft. above the sea, +4 m. in circumference, 140 ft. deep, containing capital trout, and +surrounded by cliffs in some places 590 ft. high, over which tower bleak +mountains, of which the most lofty is Mt. Pela, 8600 ft. The lake +discharges its surplus water through a subterranean canal 1640 ft. long, +whence it issues under the name of the torrent Chadoulin. From the +village of Allos proceed to Barcelonnette by La Foux, pop. 150, with an +interesting church, and Mourjouan, both on the Verdon, a tributary +of the Ubaye. (For Barcelonnette, see +p. 341. For Cannes and Grasse to Digne, see +p. 165.) + + +MARSEILLES +GRENOBLE +91 +99 +SISTERON, pop. 5000. +Good resting-place. _Hotels:_ Vassail; Negre; their omnibuses await +passengers at station. +Picturesquely +340 + +situated, 1575 ft. above the sea, on both sides of the Durance at its +confluence with the Buech. At the railway end of the town are the church +of Notre Dame, 11th cent., and three towers, part of the fortifications +built by the Counts of Provence. Notre Dame has been very much altered +externally by restoration and repairs. The effect of the graceful +octagonal tower has been destroyed by the square tower adjoining. In the +interior the arches are early pointed, inclining to the stilted form. +The three apsidal terminations are semicircular. The small window at the +end of each is closed. The end of the town farthest from the railway is +picturesque. From the gateway rise perpendicular cliffs of blue +limestone, on the top of which is a fortress of the third class. +Immediately opposite, on the other side of the Durance, are similar +strata heaved up and twisted into an enormous pyramid. A little +beyond the gateway, a good road leads up by the cemetery to a place +where there is a good view of the valleys of the Durance and the Buech. +7 m. N. from Sisteron is Mison station, 2002 ft. above the +sea, on the border of the Hautes-Alpes. 5 m. farther, Laragne +station, 1883 ft. 34 m. N. from Laragne is Eyguians-Orpier station, +1979 ft. + +Serres. Veynes. + + +MARSEILLES +GRENOBLE +112½ +77½ +SERRES, pop. 1200; +_Inns:_ *Alpes; Voyageurs; Commerce; consisting of dirty, steep, +narrow streets, on the sloping side of a calcareous cliff rising from +between the Buech and the Blême. Diligence to Nyons, 41 m. E., p. 51. 8 m. N. +from Serres is Chabestan, 2411 ft. + + +MARSEILLES +GRENOBLE +121½ +68½ +VEYNES, 2614 ft. above the +sea, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ At station, H. and Rest, de la Gare; +in town, H. Dousselin. + +Junction with rail to Mont Dauphin-Guillestre, 51 m. N.E. +This branch line extends to the passes leading to the roads which +traverse the valleys of the Waldenses. + +Gap. Le Lauzet. + +On this branch line, 16¾ m. E. from Veynes and 34¼ m. S.W. from +Mont Dauphin, is Gap, on the Luye, +2895 ft. above the sea, pop. 9300. _Inns:_ Poste; Nord; Provence; +France. This, the ancient Civitas Vappium, has a large Champ de Mars, +extensive barracks, long avenues of walnut trees, and a handsome modern +cathedral, built on the site of one of the 11th cent. In the Préfecture +is the mausoleum of the Connetable Lesdiguières, originally one of the +leaders of the Protestants. In the hamlet of Tareau, close to Gap, +Guillaume Farel, a celebrated French reformer, was born in 1489. He +died on the 13th Sept. 1565. The most remarkable features of his +character were dauntlessness and untiring energy and zeal. He possessed +a sonorous and tuneful voice, fluency of language, and passionate +earnestness; yet, although seldom failing to arrest the attention of +large audiences, he often, by imprudent torrents of denunciation, +aroused against his doctrines unnecessary opposition. + +Gap to +Barcelonnette, coach daily; distance, 42 m.; fare, +8 frs.; time, 8 to 9 hrs. The road follows the Luye to its +confluence with the Durance, 5 m. S. from Gap. From this point it +ascends by the N. side +341 + +of the Durance, passing the pretty village of Remollons, 10 m. from +Gap. 3½ m. farther is the roadside station of Espinasse, where the +horses are changed. 300 yds. above the confluence of the Ubaye with the +Durance the road crosses the Durance by the bridge of Saulze, and +ascends by the right side of the Ubaye to the village of Ubaye, +23 m. from Gap, producing large quantities of walnuts, of which oil +is made. The apples of this neighbourhood were once famous. From almost +every part of the road between Espinasse and Ubaye are seen the +picturesque fort and extensive forest of St. Vincent. 28½ m. from +Gap is Le Lauzet, pop. +1000, _Inn:_ France, surrounded by great mountains, with narrow +gorges and lofty waterfalls. In the neighbourhood is a lake abounding +with trout. 3 m. higher up is the hamlet of Martinet, at the +entrance to the beautiful valley of the Laverq, extending to the S. side +of Mt. Siolane, on whose slopes the spire of the church of Meolans +occupies a prominent position. From Martinet the road crosses to the +right side of the Ubaye, whence, passing by Les Thuiles. 4½ m. from +Barcelonnette, and St. Pons, 1½ m., arrives at Barcelonnette. St. +Pons contains the ruins of a castle, a church said to be of the 7th +cent., and a Via Crucis up a steep hill. The most curious part of the +church is the S. portal, under a soffit, having pillars on each side. +Above the pillars are small quaint figures of the apostles, and over the +door one of J. C. On the tympanum is a fresco representing the +presentation of the kings to the child Jesus. On N. side of chancel is a +square tower with short spire, which seems to have served as a pattern +to all the church towers in, the department of the Alps, the +characteristics being that the height of the tower is proportionally +great to the height of the spire. + +Barcelonnette. St. Paul. + +Barcelonnette, +3718 ft. above the sea, pop. 2100, _Hotels:_ Nord; France; on the +Ubaye, in the midst of meadows, surrounded by mountains clothed with +walnut, larch, and fir trees. The present village was built in 1230 on +ground given by Reymond Beranger, in honour of whose ancestors, the +Counts of Barcelona in Spain, the newly-erected town received its name. +The parish church, begun in 1230, was, on account of a conflagration, +nearly rebuilt in the 16th and 17th cents. The tour de l’horloge at the +corner of the “Place” is all that remains of the church of N. D. de +Confort, built in 1290 and destroyed in 1789. + +From Barcelonnette, besides the coaches daily to Gap and Digne, there is +also one to the village of St. +Paul, 4730 ft. above the sea, and 13½ m. N.E. from +Barcelonnette, fare, 2½ frs.; time, 3 hrs., by the Maddalena road, the +length of 2 m. above La Condamine, where it diverges 6½ m. N. +up the narrow and picturesque gorge of the Ubaye. The wheel-road +continues 10 m. beyond St. Paul to Maurin, 6565 ft. above the sea. +From this a bridle-road enters Italy by the Col Longet, 8767 ft., and +the hamlets of Chenal (Italian custom-house with a fair inn) and Château +Dauphin and the river Vraita. + +Jausiers. + +Barcelonnette to Cuneo by the Col +della Maddalena, Vinadio, Demonte, and Dalmazzo, 62 m. E., 12 +hours’ walk to Vinadio; whence there is a diligence to Cuneo. Wheel-road +all the way (see map, p. 304). +342 + +Guide not necessary. 3¼ m. from Barcelonnette is the hamlet of Faucon. +3¾ m. more, Jausiers, pop. 1000, on the confluence of the +Ubaye with the Sanières and the Verdon. Church of the 14th cent. The +road, to avoid the narrow passage called the Pas de Grégoire, ascends to +a considerable elevation, and then descends to the village of +Condamine-Châtelard, 7 m. from Barcelonnette, under the fortress of +Tournoux, with remarkable excavations and stairs. 2 m. beyond La +Condamine the road divides into two. One goes northward up the valley of +the Ubaye to St. Paul (see p. 341), the +other goes to the Pass of La Maddalena. 7 m. beyond Chatelard, or +14¼ m. from Barcelonnette, is Larche, pop. 800, _Inns:_ Alpes; +Italie; 5570 ft., the last French village. 5 m. beyond, or +19 m. from Barcelonnette, is the culminating point of the Pass of +the Maddalena or Argentière, 6548 ft. above the sea, between Mt. Mourre +and the Punta della Signora, 7190 ft. The mule-path on the S.E. side now +descends 850 ft. by the Lago della Maddalena, the source of the Stura, +to the hamlets of Maddalena and Argentiera, 5596 ft., with an inn and +Italian custom-house. +Bersezio. +A little distance farther, or about 7 m. from the Col and 24 +from Barcelonnette, is Bersezio, with an inn situated amidst much fine +wild scenery. 14 m. from Bersezio is Vinadio, with an inn. The +Baths are up a steep glen, which ramifies southward from the Stura at +the hamlet of Plancies, about 4 m. beyond the village of Vinadio. +8 m. from Vinadio is Demonte, near the junction of the Staura with +the stream di Valcorera, descending from the pass of the Colle del Mulo, +8422 ft., leading over to the picturesque valley of the Grana, about +25 m. W. from Cuneo. 12 m. from Demonte, 5 from Cuneo, +and 57 from Barcelonnette is S. Dalmazzo, whence steam tram to +Cuneo. (For Cuneo, see pp. 182 and 279.) + +Gap to Grenoble by +Laye, Corps, and La Mure, 62 m. Diligence to Vizille, the +remaining 8 m. by rail. + +From Gap the diligence road extends 62 m. northwards to Grenoble, +by Laye, 6½ m. N., where +the Col de Bavard, 4088 ft., is traversed. On the summit is a house of +refuge. 4½ m. beyond Laye is Les Barraques, _Inn:_ +H. Gentillon, near which is, at the mouth of the valley of the +Drac, St. Bonnet, 3350 ft., pop. 2200, the birthplace of Lesdiguières, +in a most fertile district. 23 m. from Gap is Corps (see p. 333). + +La Mure. Chorges. + +23¾ m. from Grenoble and 38¼ from Gap is La Mure, pop. 3800, and 2860 ft. above the +sea-level. _Inns:_ Pelloux; Commerce. A coach runs between La +Mure and Grenoble by La Motte. Situated on the Jonche. There is a large +trade carried on here in cattle and grain. 3½ m. distant are the +anthracite mines of Availlans. 20½ m. from Grenoble is +Pierre-Châtel, pop. 1200, to the E. of Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 10 m. +W. by a branch road is Motte-les-Bains. 16 m. from Grenoble is +Laffrey (see p. 333). + +26¾ m. from Veynes junction is Chorges, pop. 1900. _Inn:_ H. de la +Poste. This, the ancient capital of the Caturiges, occupies a marshy +unhealthy situation. The parish church was originally a temple to Diana. +In the “Place” is a marble pedestal with the name of Nero. In and around +the town are fragments of Roman +343 + +buildings. The chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Rencontre, in the valley of +Chorges, is visited by pilgrims. + +Savines. Embrun. + +34¼ m. from Veynes is Savines, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ H. de la +Poste, on the Réallon. This is the place to alight to visit the forest +and valley of the Boscodon, with splendid gorges. The road extends all +the way to the valley of the Ubaye, which it enters near Martinet and +Meolan. 6¼ m. beyond Savines is + +Embrun, 3014 ft. above the +sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Thouard; Poste; 8¾ m. S.E. from +Réallon and 12½ from Pruntères. This, the Ebrodunum of the Romans and +one of their important military stations, is situated on an eminence in +the midst of mountains on the Durance, and the S. side of Mont St. +Guillaume, 5550 ft. above the town. In a conspicuous situation stands +the church of Notre Dame, said to have been founded in the time of +Charlemagne. The walls, pierced with small round-headed deep-set windows +with sculptured arches resting on colonnettes, are supported by flat +buttresses rising to the eaves. The façade or west end consists of a +flat gable with a 4-storied spired tower rising from the N. side. Above +the portal is a rose window with valuable old painted glass. The N. +portal is within a portico on four columns. The two outer rest on lions; +the two inner, each a cluster of four slender columns, rest on the +shoulders of men in a sitting posture. The apse with its two apsidal +chapels and part of the adjoining wall are probably the only parts of +the church which date from the time of Charlemagne. The interior is +about 60 yds. long and 25 wide. On each side of the nave are four wide +spanned early pointed arches resting on massive rectangular piers. Above +each arch is a small roundheaded deeply-recessed window within a +corniced arch resting on colonnettes. Below in the aisles are their +exact counterparts, only about double the size. The roof of the nave is +quadripartite, and that of the aisle semicircular. The high altar and +angels are of white marble. The organ and most of the ornaments date +from the time of Louis XI., who frequently visited this church to pray +to Notre Dame d’Embrun, that white marble image of the Virgin and Child +over the altar fronting the northern entrance. On the inside of the +northern doorway (left hand) are two horseshoes, not exactly of the same +size. It is said that Lesdiguières, the Protestant leader, attempting to +ride into the church to the altar of the image of Notre Dame, the horse +reared, and the shoes of its hind hoofs sticking to the pavement, the +animal could proceed no farther. + +Behind the cathedral is the archbishop’s palace, now a barrack. In the +centre rises a lofty square machicolated tower called the Tour Brune. +3 m. S. the road passes the village of Les Crottes. + +After Embrun the rail passes Châteauroux, 3¾ m. N.E. from Embrun, +with a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement, +3¾ m. farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a poor village with a +bathing establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs. + +Mont Dauphin. Guillestre. Queyras. + +51 m. N.E. from Veynes is Mont Dauphin, an isolated rock of coarse +reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with +344 + +the Durance to the height of 3445 ft. above the sea, or 496 ft. above +the road, the railway, and the rivers. A carriage-road leads up to +the summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on +the top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of +stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the village, +which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy appearance. From +the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and mountains, including +Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers, and down at the foot of +the rock is the inn St. Guillaume. + +2 m. from Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is the +village of Guillestre, 3116 ft., pop. 1000, with an inn and +church of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil, +passing through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to +800 ft. high. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9 m. from Mont Dauphin, is a +cascade. 3 m. farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile, +are the fort and village of Queyras, 17 m. S. from Briançon and 14 m. +N.E. from Mont Dauphin, with an inn. “In the valleys around Queyras +Protestants are numerous, especially in the Val d’Arvieux, +reached by a road branching off on the left about 1½ m. below +Château Queyras; as well as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets, +St. Veran, Pierre Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at +Arvieux, St. Veran, and Fousillarde, in all of which service is +performed once in three weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a +week in each parish” (see p. 304, and +_Murray_, p. 216). +Aiguilles. +Abriés. +A little higher up the left or S. bank of the Guil is the +Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent., and an inn. 18 m. from +Mont Dauphin is Aiguilles, pop. 700, with an inn, on the right +bank of the Guil. 21 m. from Mont Dauphin, and 5½ hrs. walk from +the foot of Monte Viso, is Abriés, with an inn and Romanesque church, +the highest village in the valley of the Guil. Although Abriés is a +convenient halting-place, it is a most unattractive spot as +headquarters. 4 m. S.E. from Abriés on the Guil is La Monta, with custom-house, +where France is left. + +For Perosa to Mont Dauphin, see +p. 307; Torre-Pèllice to Mont +Dauphin, p. 306; Saluzzo +to Mont Dauphin, p. 308, and map +p. 304. + +Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont +Viso, 65 m. E. From Mont Dauphin a good road extends +21 m. E. to Abriés, the highest village in the valley of the Guil, +5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From Abriés a mule-path leads +over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft., on the S. flank of Monte +Meidassa, 10,185 ft., to Crissolo, 7½ m. E. from the Col. 8 m. +beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief town in the +valley, and 1778 ft. above the sea. 5 m. farther E., on the road to +Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about 17 m. S., to +Sampeyre, 3205 ft., the principal village in the valley of the Vraita. +Saluzzo is 14 m. E. by coach from Paesana and 25 m. N.E. from +Sampeyre (see p. 307, and map p. 304). + +Mont Pelvoux. + +45¼ m. N.E. from Gap, and 9½ m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, is La Bessée, 3420 ft. above the +sea, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste. Here passengers alight +for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of +345 + +Val Louise, about 6½ m. +W. by the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see p. 333). 10½ m. N. from La Bessée is Briançon (see p. 333). “Nearly opposite La Bessée +to the N.W. opens out the Val Louise, which terminates in the glaciers +and peaks of the Mont +Pelvoux, whose top, rising 12,973 ft. above the sea-level, is +visible from the road in clear weather. The Val Louise branches into +two; that on the right leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des +Arcines, is a mass of ice. By the other branch there is a difficult +pass, called Col de Celar, into the Val Godemar. Within the Val Louise +was a cavern called Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people +having concealed themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their +children and as much food as they could collect, relying on its +inaccessible position and the snows around for their defence. When the +officer despatched by Charles VIII. arrived with his soldiers in the +valley, none of its inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing +out their hiding-place, he commanded a quantity of wood to be set fire +to at the mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain +in attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks +below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the +caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is +believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this +valley. The cavern +has fallen, and is nearly buried in the _débris_. The present +inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable goitred race.” +—_Murray_, p. 218. + + +MARSEILLES +GRENOBLE +126 +64 +ASPRES, pop. 2000, 2493 ft. +above the sea. _Inn:_ Ferdinand. Junction with road to Livron, 68 m. W., on E. side +of Rhône (see p. 46). The road after leaving Aspres crosses the Col +de Cabres, and then proceeds westwards by the valley of the Drôme (see +p. 47). + +154½ +35½ +CLELLES, 2400 ft., pop. +1000. _Inn:_ Lion d’Or. Station to alight at to make the ascent of +Mont Aiguille, a limestone rock 6880 ft. high, near Chichiliane, +about 7 m. distant towards Die. + +163 +27 +MONESTIER DE CLERMONT, pop. 1000. +_Inns:_ Europe; France. Cold acidulous spring for diseases of the +kidneys and stomach. + +Vif. Vizille. + + +MARSEILLES +GRENOBLE +177 +13 +VIF, pop. 3000. At the foot of a +calcareous ridge, which connects Mt. Moucherotte, 7454 ft., with Mt. +Moucherolle, 7509 ft. + +181 +9 +VIZILLE, pop. 4000. +_Inns:_ Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, the Vigillia of the Romans, +is an ill-built manufacturing town on the right bank of the Romanche, +with a castle built by Lesdiguières, now restored and used as a +manufactory (see p. 333). + +185 +5 +PONT DE CLAIX, +pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000 ft. high (see +p. 328). + +190 +GRENOBLE. (See p. 324.) + +346 + + +Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne. + +See fly-leaf, and Map of the +Rhône and Savoy, p. 27. + + +LYONS +349 +PARIS. For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne à Lyon par Saint +Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important +junction of St. Germain-des-Fossés, see pp. 351 to 358. + + +PARIS +220 +129 +ST. +GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES. All the trains halt here. + +231 +118 +LA PALISSE, pop. +3000, on the Bèbre. The ruined castle on the eminence overlooking the +town was built in the 14th century. + +235½ +113½ +ARFEUILLES, pop. +3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle of Montmorillon, 15th +cent. + + +PARIS +LYONS +262 +87 +ROANNE, pop. 20,000. +_Hotels:_ Centre; Commerce; *Nord. A busy, well-built, +manufacturing town, on the Loire and the canal of Digoin, possessing +many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the most noteworthy +are—the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th cent.; the ruins +of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built by the Jesuit +Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills employ 1200 workmen, +and the annual value of the produce is £1,120,000. After Roanne, the +line to St. Etienne and Le Puy passes through a picturesque country +among the Cevennes and their offshoots. + + +PARIS +LYONS +282 +67 +FEURS, pop. 4000, on the +Loire. _Inn:_ Poste. This, the ancient Forum Segusinorum, contains +several antiquities, and a church partly of the 12th century. In the +neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring, called La Fontaine des Quatre. +Many Roman remains. + + +PARIS +LYONS +297½ +51½ +SAINT GALMIER, pop. +3100, on the Coise. _Hotel:_ Poste. Springs of mineral water of +great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It is exported, and +not utilised on the spot (see p. 348). + +St. Etienne. + + +PARIS +LYONS +312 +37 +SAINT ETIENNE, 1770 +ft. above the sea, pop. 127,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; France; both +first-class. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less expensive, and +frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe the diligences +start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple Protestant. East +from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the Palais de Justice, +a large handsome building. + +This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in +summer, was founded by the Romans b.c. +56, and from a very early period became famous for forges and the +manufacture of cables, ribbons, firearms, and “faïence” or crockery. It +is situated in the long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive +coal-beds. One long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne, +Paris, Foy, St. Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing +the city into two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the principal +squares or “Places.” In nearly the centre of this street, where it is +intersected by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading +northwards to the railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the +west end, the Post +347 + +and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the street +called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill behind, the +Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, passing an artificial grotto. +Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some of the many weavers +of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure to visitors. On the +summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and church, surmounted with a +gilded image of the Virgin. The road from this convent, down the hill, +passes the church of St. Etienne, built in the 12th cent., containing +some beautiful glass, and a relief representing the martyrdom of St. +Etienne. + +St. Etienne: Museums. + +A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the PALAIS DES +ARTS, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The +Picture Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections +of specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are +the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under glass-cases are the +separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including locks, +triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and balls. The centre room +upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern. The most +striking is, “Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves.” On one +side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and on the +other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and +furniture. In a separate saloon is the faïence, consisting chiefly of +plates. In the second storey is the MUSEE DE FABRIQUE. In the +centre of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls, +under glass, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and +arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although most +remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be passed by, as simply +very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting posture +representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of Wales, woven by +Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this room. In the +lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the varied fabrics +from the looms of St. Etienne. +St. Etienne: +Manufactures. +The annual value of the silk manufactures is estimated at £3,300,000, +employing 40,000 workmen and 280,000 spindles (broches), of which +165,000 work organzines and trames, and 114,000 work the silk intended +for crapes and gauze ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in +all at 65,000 for weaving silks, and 80,000 for ribbons. The coalfields +occupy nearly 85 square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an +average annually £1,600,000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long +street, opposite the gas-works, are the Manufacture d’Armes of the +Government, and adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large +establishment is under the superintendence of artillery officers of high +rank, and employs about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private +gun manufactories throughout the town, which turn out annually as many +as 300,000 stand of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade +of St. Etienne is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes, +and is north from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street, +the Rue de la Badouillière. + +348 + + +Rochetaillée. + +_Excursions._—Nearly 2 m. S. is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with +large hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called +the Gouffre d’Enfer. 2½ m. farther by the same road is the +village of Rochetaillée. This is also the road to take to +ascend Mont Pilat. A carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat, +10 m. from St. Etienne. Thence a path leads to the farm of the +Perdrix, 7 m. farther, where pass the night. Mont Pilat has two +peaks—the Trois Dents, 4480 ft., and the Crête de la Perdrix, 4705 +ft. + +14½ m. by rail from St. Etienne is the St. Galmier station, 1260 ft. above the sea (see +p. 346). An omnibus awaits passengers +for the town, 1½ m. distant, on a hill 200 ft. above the station. +It is a poor place with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the +foot of the hill are the mineral springs and the establishments for +bottling the water. The springs are at a considerable distance below the +surface, reached by deep shafts, like the “Source Remy,” cased with +masonry, and furnished with spiral staircases. + +From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line, an +omnibus starts for St. Alban, 6¼ m. distant, with a hotel and +bathing establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs. + +Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d’Estreaux, +a coach awaits passengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3¼ m. from the +station. The bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is +supplied by six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and +iron. + +St. Germains is the station for Vichy +(p. 358). + + +Paris to Lyons by Tarare. + +Distance, 318 miles. Time, 17½ hours. + + +LYONS +318 +PARIS. This route is the same as the preceding as far as Roanne. +For time-tables, see under “Paris, Tarare, et Lyon.” The route becomes +picturesque after Roanne. + +Roanne. Tarare. + + +PARIS +LYONS +262 +56 +ROANNE. (See p. 346.) 5 m. S.E. is +L’Hôpital, and 19 m. more the manufacturing town of Amplepuis, pop. +7000, at the foot of a hill 1525 ft. above the sea-level, producing +considerable quantities of muslin, calico, cotton, and linen cloth. +3 m. from Amplepuis commences the tunnel, 3200 yards, which pierces +the ridge that separates the basin of the Loire from the Rhône. The +temperature of the Rhône basin in winter is rawer and colder than that +of the Loire. + + +PARIS +LYONS +288 +30 +TARARE, pop. 15,000. +_Hotel:_ Europe; an uninteresting and unattractive manufacturing +town on the Turdine, surrounded by steep mountains, among which is Mont +Chevrier, one of the highest summits of the Beaujolais range. At the low +end of the town is the +349 + +railway station, and at the high end the viaduct of 21 arches across the +valley of the Turdine. The arch which crosses the road has a span of 95 +ft., the others average 35 ft. About 60,000 men in the town and environs +are employed in the manufacture of velvet, embroidery, trimming, and +especially in the particular kind of muslin called “tarlatan,” +a thin gauze-like fabric, for which it is celebrated. + + +PARIS +LYONS +318 +LYONS (see p. +29). + +Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand, + +121 m. W. by Givors-Canal, St. Etienne, +Montbrison, and Thiers. + +Montbrison. + +At Givors-Canal passengers for stations on the west side of the Rhône +change carriages. From Givors-Canal to St. Etienne the train passes +towns with coal-mines and large smelting works and foundries. At St. Etienne (p. 346) a long halt is +generally made. A little way up from the station will be found the +steam tram, which, after traversing the best part of the town, returns +to this terminus. 56½ m. W. from Lyons and 64½ m. E. from +Clermont is Montbrison on the Vizezy, pop. 6700. _Inn:_ +H. Lion d’Or. An uninteresting town, whose public buildings occupy +religious edifices, secularised after the revolution of 1793. Of these +the most prominent is the Palais de Justice, in the convent and church +of the nuns of “Sainte Marie.” + +Behind the inn is the parish church of N. D. d’Esperance, founded +in 1223, but recently repaired. The west portal (restored), with its +heavy square tower and buttresses, was built in 1443 by order of +Charles I. de Bourbon. The most interesting part is the five-sided +apse, with in each side one long lancet window, and above it two small +windows separated by an impost colonnette. To each corner is attached +diagonally a long, narrow, slightly receding buttress. The church is 206 +ft. long, and 62 ft. high from the pavement to the roof. At the E. end +of the N. aisle is the mausoleum to Count “Fores and Niver, Guigo IV.,” +who founded the church in mccxxiii. +Opposite is the monument to the jurist Vernato, d. mccclviii. + +Montbrison: Salle des Etats. + +Fronting the E. end of the church is the Salle des +Etats (house of Parliament) du Forez, built about the year 1300 +by Jean I., Comte de Forez, and recently restored by the Duc de +Persigny from plans by Violet-le-Duc. The name was afterwards changed +into the Salle de la Diana (decana), from having been converted into the +chapter-house of the church. It now contains the library of the Diana +society, who also hold their meetings here. It is 64 ft. long, 26¼ ft. +wide, and 26¼ ft. high. The roof is entirely covered with small painted +representations of the escutcheons of the Counts of Forez, and of every +family that has possessed land in the territory. The large end windows +are modern +350 + +additions. The chimney-piece, though modern, occupies the place of the +original one. + +Less than ½ m. from the inn, by the Clermont road, is a cold mineral +spring, containing bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, with free +carbonic acid gas. It makes a refreshing drink, as well as a tonic and +diuretic. A little farther, about a mile from the town, is the old +untidy village of Moingt, with church 12th cent., and in front of it a +ruined gateway and round tower 13th cent. Montbrison is 49¼ m. W. from +Lyons by the Dombes railway. The Lyons terminus of the Dombes railway is +the station of St. Paul (p. 30). + +Between Montbrison and Thiers there is nothing remarkable till just +after St. Remay, the station before Thiers, when the train passes by the +gorge of the Durolle at an immense depth below. At this part the train +traverses eight tunnels, and crosses the valley of the Durolle by a +viaduct of seven arches. 24¼ m. E. from Clermont, 40½ m. W. +from Montbrison, 60 m. W. from St. Etienne, and 96¾ m. W. from +Lyons is + +Thiers. Vertaizon. Billom. + +Thiers, pop. 16,500, at +first a small hamlet beside a fortress (Tigernum castrum) and a chapel +dedicated to St. Symphorien (see p. 367). + +Thiers is 72¼ m. N. from Darsac by coach, passing Olliergues, Vertolaye, +Ambert, Marsac, Arlanc, and Chaise-Dieu (see p. 89). + +Thiers makes a pleasant railway excursion either from Vichy or +Clermont-Ferrand. + +1¼ m. W. from Thiers and 23 m. E. from Clermont-Ferrand is + +Courty. Junction with line +to St. Germain des Fossés, 27½ m. W., passing Vichy, 21½ m. +N. + +13 m. W. from Courty and 10 m. E. from Clermont is Vertaizon, pop. 2200, situated 1¼ m. S. +from the station. Junction with branch line to Billom, 5½ m. S., pop. 4300. _Inns:_ +Voyageurs; Commerce. A prettily situated town among hills crowned +with ruins of castles from 12th to 16th cents. Church St. Cerneuf, 11th +to 13th cents. + +The train from Vertaizon takes 30 minutes to reach Clermont-Ferrand (see p. 369). + +351 + + +Paris to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes. + +This Route conducts to the volcanic region of Central France; to the +famous Spas of Vichy, Royat, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, and St. Nectaire; and +to the best towns for studying the architecture of Auvergne. (See Maps, +pp. 1 and 27.) + + +MARSEILLES +530 +PARIS. Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à +Lyon, and request a ticket for Nîmes by Clermont-Ferrand. The first +stations passed are Brunoy (p. 2), Melun (p. 2), and Fontainebleau (p. 3). At Moret, +42 m. S.E. from Paris, the rail to Marseilles by Nevers and Nîmes +separates from the rail to Marseilles by Dijon and Lyon. (For Moret, see p. 10.) + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +73 +457 +MONTARGIS, pop. +10,000, on the Loing and the canal Briare. _Inns:_ Poste; France. +The principal street leads directly from the station to the Hôtel de la +Poste at the opposite end of the town. The streets about the old castle +are narrow and dirty, and some of them steep. This castle, rebuilt by +Charles V., called formerly the “berceau des enfants de France,” +became private property in 1809. A house has been built within the +circle of the crumbling walls, of which a 14th cent, gateway still +stands. + +The parish church is of different epochs—the nave and the +aisles belong to the 12th cent., and the chancel, which is four steps +higher, to the 16th. It is supported on ten tall slender columns, from +which the groining of the roof ramifies in all directions. + +The town fairs are held in the promenade, called the Patis. In the +adjoining forest, covering 21,030 acres, is the Dolmen of Paucourt. +Montargis is a great railway junction on one of the main lines between +Paris and the south of France. + +10 m. S. by rail from Montargis is Nogent-sur-Vernisson, station for +Châtillon-sur-Loing. Time, 75 minutes; fare, 1 fr. Admiral Coligny +was born in 1516 in the old castle of this place, situated in the midst +of the hereditary domain of the family. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +96 +434 +GIEN, pop. 7600. _Inns:_ +Poste; Paris. An old town on the Loire, and an important railway +junction. On the hill rising from the town is the church of St. Pierre, +flanked by a square tower, 15th cent., commanding an admirable view. +Adjoining is the château, a handsome edifice built in 1494 by Anne +de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. It is now occupied by the Préfecture. +Below, in the town, is the church of St. Louis, 17th cent. 38 m. +N.W. by branch line is Orleans (see pp. 148 and 151 in Black’s +_Normandy_). + +352 + + +Briare. Cosne. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +102½ +427½ +BRIARE, pop. 5200. +_Inn:_ H. de la Poste. A pleasant town on the Loire, +where large quantities of buttons are manufactured. 3 m. farther S. +by rail is Châtillon-sur-Loire, pop. 3300. Inn: H. des Trois Rois; +omnibus awaits passengers. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +121 +409 +COSNE, pop. 7000. _Inns_: +Grand Cerf; Belle Étoile. This little town, with ironworks of +considerable importance, and still retaining parts of its old +fortifications and castle, is situated on the Loire at its junction with +the Nohain. The best of the churches is St. Aignan, of which the portal +and apse are of the 11th cent.; the rest is modern. 6½ m. farther +S. by rail is Sancerre on the Loire, pop. 3700. _Inn:_ Pointe du +Jour. With castle, 13th cent., on a hill 987 ft. above the sea. In the +neighbourhood are important quarries. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +138 +392 +POUILLY-SUR-LOIRE, pop. 3500. _Inn:_ +Écu. The surrounding vineyards produce a famous white wine, with a +peculiar flavour. It is drinkable in the second year, and deteriorates +after the 15th. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +141 +389 +LA CHARITÉ, built on +a hill sloping down from the railway to the Loire, crossed by both a +stone and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ Poste et G. Monarque; +Dauphin; omnibuses await passengers. It has still part of its +fortifications and towers of the 14th cent. Of the church St. Croix, +consecrated in 1107 by Pope Pascal II., there remain a vast +narthex, the choir, and a high and profusely ornamented tower. This +church belonged to a Benedictine convent, whose deeds of charity gave to +the town its name. The convent is now occupied by the order of the +Visitandines (Visitation). In the treasury are the chasuble and mitre of +St. François de Sales. + +Pougues les Eaux. Fourchambault. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +150 +380 +POUGUES LES +EAUX, pop. 1400. _Hotels:_ Near the station, the H. du +Châlet. At the entrance into the avenue, the H. de l’Etablissement, +and opposite the “Etablissement,” the Hôtel Thermal. Pougues, being a +quiet place, can be recommended only to those in search of repose, whose +stomach or other internal organs have become weak or deranged. The +establishment, which has every kind of apparatus for administering the +water, is situated in a park extending to the Loire, where fair +rod-fishing may be had. The water, principally used internally, is cold, +has a pungent taste, and contains a large amount of carbonic acid gas, +both free and in combination with lime, soda, potash, magnesia, and +iron, and is serviceable in the cure of dyspepsia, enlargement of the +liver, gall-stones, and diseases of the kidneys. Douche baths of +carbonic acid gas are employed. + +353 + + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +154 +376 +FOURCHAMBAULT, +pop. 6500. _Inns:_ H. Bourges at station; in town, +H. Berry. A town on the Loire full of large ironworks, +employing above 5000 workmen. The Colonne de Juillet and the Pont du +Carrousel were cast here. Omnibus at station. + +Nevers. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +158 +372 +NEVERS, pop. 20,400. +_Hotels:_ at the station, H. de la Paix; H. du Chemin de +Fer. In the town the France, Europe, and Nièvre. A short distance +N.W. from the station, or from the N.W. corner of the Park, is the +nunnery of St. Giddard, containing the tomb of Bernadette Soubirous, to +which establishment she was entrusted after her reported interviews with +the “immaculately conceived one,” and where she died, after a lingering +illness, caused, it is said, by the knowledge that the present pope had +not the same implicit faith in her story as his predecessor Pio IX. +entertained (see under Lourdes, in Black’s _South France_, West +Half). In the garden of the convent, in a small chapel, is her grave, +covered by a marble slab bearing the following inscription:— “Ici +repose, dans la paix du Seigneur, Bernadette Soubirous, honorée à +Lourdes en 1858 de plusieurs apparitions de la Très Sainte Vierge. En +religion Sœur Marie Bernard, décédée à Nevers, à la Maison-Mère des +Sœurs de la Charité, le 16 Avril 1879 dans le 35e année de +son age et la 12me de sa profession religieuse. C’est ici le +lieu. Psalm 131, v. 15.” + +Julius Cæsar kept his military stores in Nevers; but after his defeat +at Gergovia (p. 372) the inhabitants +plundered his camp and massacred the soldiers. Of the old fortifications +there remain the tower of the Loire, of which the lower part is of the +11th cent.; the tower of St. Eloi, 16th cent.; the tower Goguin, 12th +cent.; and the Porte du Croux, a square tower of the 12th cent., +but rebuilt in 1393, now containing an antiquarian museum. At the +entrance into the town by the Paris road is a triumphal arch, erected in +1746 to commemorate the victory of Fontenoy, 12th May 1745, when the +French defeated the Anglo-German and Dutch forces under the Duke of +Cumberland. Nevers stands on the slope of a hill rising from the Loire +in the midst of a flat country abounding with iron, giving employment to +important ironworks. In the most elevated part is the Grande Place, with +the Palais de Justice, formerly the Palais Ducal, a stately +edifice built in 1475 by Jean de Clamecy, Comte de Nevers, but altered +and enlarged during the 16th cent. by his successors, belonging to the +families of Clèves and Gonzaga. It is in the form of a parallelogram, +flanked with four towers, each containing +354 + +a staircase. In the centre turret is the “Escalier d’honneur,” +ornamented with sculpture representing scenes connected with the history +of the house of Clèves. The market-place occupies the site of the old +Palais de Justice, built in 1400 by Philippe de Bourgogne. Opposite the +Palais de Justice is a fountain by Lequesne. +Nevers: Faïence. +In the Hôtel de Ville are the Library, the Picture Gallery, and an +interesting collection of faïence, which has been manufactured at Nevers +for eight centuries. Faïence is the French term for all descriptions of +glazed earthenware, and corresponds nearly to the English word +“crockery.” The manufacture of majolica or enamelled pottery was +introduced into France by Catherine de Médicis and her kinsman Louis +Gonzaga, who, by marriage with Henrietta of Clèves in 1565, became Duke +of Nevers. There are still important pottery works in the town. + +Nevers: Cassini. + +Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Cathedral of St. Cyr, +reconstructed in the 13th cent., with parts belonging to other epochs. +The nave was rebuilt in 1188, the N. portal in 1240, the choir in the +14th cent., and the S. portal, which is flamboyant in style, adorned +with complicated mouldings, in the 15th cent. In the interior we find a +western and eastern apse; the former, 16th cent., covers a crypt of the +11 th cent. Statuettes like Caryatides sustain the columns of the +triforium. On the floor of the western end is the meridian traced by the +astronomer Cassini +while engaged in the triangulation of France. + +The church of St. Etienne, 1097, is in the Romanesque style. St. Père +was built in 1512, St. Genest, now in ruins, in the 12th cent., and the +chapel of the Visitandines in 1639. + +32½ m. E. by rail is Cercy la Tour, where a coach awaits passengers +for the comfortable bathing establishment of St. Honoré. The water is +hot, and in chemical composition resembles very much the springs in the +Pyrenees. Hotel at the establishment. (See map, p. 1.) + +Varzy. Clamecy. + +Junction with branch to La Roche, 108 m. N. on the direct line +between Paris and Turin (see p. 14). On this branch line, 8¾ m. +N. from Nevers, is Guerigny, pop. 3050, on the Nièvre, with the +important ironworks called the Forges de la Chaussade, employing upwards +of 1300 men. 24¼ m. farther by the same line is Varzy, pop. 2890; _Inn:_ H. de la +Poste; with a very beautiful church, St. Père, 13th and 14th cents., +surmounted by two square towers. In the interior are an elegant +triforium and a beautiful Flemish painting (1535) of the Martyrdom of +St. Eugenie. 44 m. S. from La Roche and 64 m. N. from Nevers +is Clamecy, pop. 5400 (p. 15); +_Inns:_ Boule d’Or; Univers; *Poste; on the junction of the Yonne +with the Beuvron. On +355 + +the bridge across the Yonne is a bronze bust by David of Jean Rouvet, +the inventor of those large rafts by which the wood from the forests is +floated down to Paris and other parts. In the church of St. Martin, 12th +to 15th cent., are a statue of Ste. Geneviève by Simart, a handsome +organ-case of the 16th cent., and a beautiful reredos on the high altar. +Under the markets are the vaults of the old castle of the Dukes of +Nevers. The Palais de Justice, the gendarmerie, and the prison occupy +one large building. + +22 m. N. from Clamecy is Cravant (p. 14), an important railway junction. +Junction also at Nevers with line to Chagny, 178 m. E. (see p. 24). Branch +to Le Creusot and Autun +(see p. 24). + +Saincaize. Moulins. + + +PARIS +154 +SAINCAIZE, 600 ft. +above sea; junction with line to Bourges, 38 m. W. (See Black’s +_South France_, West Half.) + + +MARSEILLES +195 +335 +MOULINS, pop. 22,000. +_Hotels:_ At the station, H. du Chemin de Fer; in. the town, +Dauphin, Paris, France, Allier. Omnibuses at the station. +A cheerful town with extensive boulevards and pleasant walks along +the banks of the Allier, crossed by a bridge built in 1763, of 13 +arches, and 328 yards long. In the centre of the town is the Cathedral +of Notre Dame, in the transition florid style of the 15th cent. The +façade, over which rise two handsome spires, is of white sandstone, with +colonnettes of dark Volvic lava. The tops of the buttresses are adorned +with statues. The choir, which is seven steps higher than the nave, is +lighted by windows containing valuable 16th cent. glass, and covered +with a curious roof. In the chapel to the right of the altar is a small +mausoleum with a recumbent figure illustrating the condition of even the +fairest forms after death. Under the altar, in a little crypt, is an +Entombment. In the first chapel, N. side of the choir, is an “Adoration +of the Virgin” of considerable merit. Opposite the main entrance is a +large square tower called “La tour mal coiffée,” 15th cent., now a +prison, which, with the handsome portico of the Gendarmerie, formed part +of the famous castle of the Dukes of Bourbon. The most interesting old +houses are within and around the Place de l’Allier. In that square is +also the church of St. Nicolas, built in the style of the 13th cent. In +the chapel of the Lycée, No. 15 Rue de Paris, a little beyond the +Palais de Justice, is the marble mausoleum, by Coustou, Anguier, +Renaudan and Poipant, of Henri II., Duc de Montmorenci, godson of +Henri IV., and one of the bravest marshals of France. He had the +misfortune to draw upon himself the enmity of Cardinal Richelieu and the +displeasure of Louis XIII., which +356 + +led to his execution in the Capitole of Toulouse on the 30th October +1632, where the knife is still preserved. His widow, Maria Orsini, +caused his body to be brought to this chapel, then belonging to the +convent of the nuns “de la Visitation.” The statues, all of the finest +Carrara marble, represent the duke in a half-recumbent posture and the +duchess seated near him. Fee, ½ fr. In the Hôtel de Ville is the public +library, with 25,000 vols. and a manuscript Bible of the 12th cent, +called the Souvigny Bible. The town clock, with its moving statues, is +mounted on a square tower, 15th cent., 40 ft. high. + +Duke of Berwick. Sterne’s Maria. + +Lord Clarendon, while on his way from Montpellier to Rouen, stayed +some time at Moulins, where he wrote a part of his _History of the +Rebellion_, which he finished while resident in Rouen, where he died +on the 9th of December 1674, after having appealed twice in vain to +Charles II. to be allowed to return to England. James Fitz-James, +Duke of Berwick, a marshal and peer of France, natural son of James +Duke of York, afterwards James II., by Arabella Churchill, sister +of the great Duke of Marlborough, was born at Moulins on the 21st of +August 1670, and died 12th June 1734. Montesquieu said of him: “In the +works of Plutarch I have seen at a distance what great men were; in +Marshal Berwick I have seen what they are.” By the side of the Paris road, +under a tree at the northern entrance into Moulins, the forlorn Maria, +with her lute and her dog Sylvie, used to sit. Thwarted in love by the +intrigues of the parish curate, she became the prey to a deep-seated +melancholy. (See Sterne’s _Sentimental Journey_, “Maria.”) + +Souvigny. + +9 m. W. from Moulins by rail is Souvigny, pop. 4000. _Hotel:_ Croix d’Or. At +the end of the village farthest from the station is a beautiful +basilica, commenced in the 10th cent and rebuilt and restored at various +periods. It is 275 ft. long, 125 broad, and 56 high. In the Chapelle +Vieille, to the right of the high altar, is the mausoleum of +Louis II., Duc de Bourbon, and Anne his wife. On the other side is +that of Duc Charles I. and Anne de Bourgogne his wife. Both chapels +are enclosed in a stone screen with delicate flamboyant tracery. To the +left of the principal entrance is an ancient column with the signs of +the Zodiac sculptured on it. N. from the church, on the opposite side of +the street, is the old castle of the Bourbons, occupied by people of +humble rank. From the Souvigny station an omnibus runs 10 m. N. to +Bourbon l’Archambault, passing at about half-way St. Menoux (Hôtel de +l’Écu). It stops in front of the church just sufficient time to allow +the traveller to cast a rapid glance over this +357 + +pleasing specimen of Aquitaine and Auvergne architecture of the 11th +cent. (See map, +p. 1.) + +Bourbon-l’Archambault Baths. + +Bourbon-l’Archambault, pop. 4500. +_Hotels:_ Close to the bathing establishment, the Hôtel Montespan, +on the site of the house which used to be occupied by Madame de +Montespan and Louis XIV. About 100 yds. distant the Hôtel de France. On +a hill at the northern side of this ancient town are the ruins of the +once strong feudal castle of Bourbon, commenced by Louis I. in +1321, and finished in the 15th cent, by Duc Pierre II. Four massive +towers, built of stone, with projecting points, still remain of the +twenty-four which it had originally. +On a hill at the opposite side of the town is the parish church, +commenced in the 12th cent., resembling the church of St. Menoux. In the +centre of the town is the copious spring of mineral water which, besides +supplying the bathing establishment, is largely used for drinking and +domestic purposes. It is clear, inodorous, unctuous, easily digested, +slightly saline and aperient, and 128° Fahr. One-sixth of its volume is +free carbonic acid gas, besides the same acid in combination with lime, +magnesia, and soda; and some salts of bromine, iodine, and iron. It is +eminently diaphoretic, diuretic, and tonic, and excellent for +rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and scrofula. Between the bathing +establishment and the church is the cold water spring called the “Source +de Jonas,” containing bicarbonates of lime and magnesia, chlorides of +soda and magnesia, silicates of lime, alumina, and soda, the carbonate +of iron and the oxide of manganese. The water is tonic and slightly +laxative. +St. Pardoux Spring. +9½ m. S. from Bourbon is St. Pardoux, in a wooded and hilly +country, forming one of the best drives from Bourbon. There is here a +spring of remarkably sparkling water, ⅚ths of its volume being free +carbonic acid gas. It contains the bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and +soda, silicates of lime and alumina, and the oxide of iron. It is +delightful to the taste, very pungent, and, owing to the presence of so +much carbonic acid gas, slightly heady. It is an excellent tonic, highly +diuretic, and stimulates the secretion of bile. It is sold in litre +bottles at Bourbon at 3d. per bottle. Madame Montespan, when in the +height of her power, used regularly to visit Bourbon to recruit her +health, and here she died, in solitude, on the 25th of May 1707, cast +off and deserted by Louis XIV. 33 m. W. from Souvigny by rail is +Commentry (see map, +p. 1). + +From Moulins branch line extends 73 m. E. to Montchanin, passing, at +17½ m. E. from Moulins, Dompierre; at 23 m. E., Gilly, station +for Bourbon-Lancy; 29¼ m. E., Saint Agnan; 35 m. E., Digoin; +and 41½ m. E., Paray-le-Monial (see p. 27, and +map, p. 1). + +Dompierre-sur-Bebre, pop. 2230. +_Inns:_ Commerce; Lion d’Or. Coal and iron found in this +neighbourhood. The country is undulating and well cultivated. Near the +next station, Diou on the Loire, is the Cistercian abbey of Sept-Fonds, +founded in 1132, rebuilt in the 17th cent., and now an agricultural +school. + +358 + + +Gilly. + +Gilly, station for Bourbon-Lancy, pop. +3300, 8¾ m. N. by the Loire. Coach awaits passengers at station, +fare 1½ fr. _Inn:_: H. Trois Barbeaux, where carriages for +drives can be had. The village, situated on an eminence, is full of old +houses, of which the best are near the clock-tower, 15th cent. In the +valley at the foot of the eminence is the suburb of St. Leger, with an excellent small Bathing +Establishment, supplied by five alkaline springs, temp. 132° +Fahrenheit, which flow into large basins in the court fronting the +baths. The water contains free carbonic acid gas and 19 grains of the +chloride of sodium to the pint. In lesser quantities the chlorides of +calcium and magnesium, the sulphate of soda, the carbonates of lime and +magnesia, and the oxide of iron. In Vichy the drinking of the water is +the most important, but here it is the external application by baths and +other means. They are very serviceable in the cure of nervous and +cutaneous diseases, in neuralgia of the face, and in every form of +rheumatism. The baths are of marble and easily entered, and furnished +with ingenious contrivances to facilitate the application of the water +to any particular part. Near the Casino, and standing by itself, is a +swimming bath, 62 ft. long by 29½ wide and 5 deep, filled with the +mineral water cooled down to 90° Fahr. The surplus water is still +carried off by the underground channels constructed by the Romans. At +intervals along their course perpendicular shafts are sunk down to the +bed of the outlet. + +On a height near the bathing establishment is a hospital built by M. and +Mme. Aligre, and given by them to the town. A monument to their +memory is in the Place of St. Leger, and a replica of the statue of +Madame in silver is in the hospital. _Inns:_ Opposite the +establishment, the *Grand Hotel, 12 frs., and the G. H. des Termes, +pension 8½ frs. A little farther, the G. H. des Bains, 7½ +frs.; for a lady, 6 frs. Opposite, the H. Allier. The charge +for the baths and Casino is very reasonable. For particulars write to M. +Le Regisseur des Bains de Bourbon-Lancy. The surrounding country is of +considerable interest, the Loire is within an easy walk, while several +important cities are within a few hours by rail. + +A little beyond Gilly is Saint Agnan on the Loire. _Inn:_ +H. de Marion. A small town in the midst of iron and coal +mines. 6 m. farther is Digoin, pop. 3300. Inns: H. des Diligences, in +the town; at the station, the H. de la Gare. Church of the llth +cent. Suspension bridge across the Loire. + +St. Germain-des-Fossés. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +220 +310 +ST. +GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES, 845 ft. above the sea. Large refreshment +rooms. Always a great deal of traffic at this station. Change carriages +for Vichy. Behind the station, on a little eminence, is the inn G. +H. du Pare (bed 2 frs.), with garden. At the warehouse end of +the station is the inn H. de la Gare. In the village, the Paix. +7 m. S. from St. Germain and 227 m. S. from Paris is + +359 + + +VICHY + +on the Allier, pop. 7000, 8 hrs. by express from Paris. +_Hotels:_ The largest and best are around the Parc. Of them the +most elegantly furnished are:—The Nouvel Hôtel, pension 25 frs.; +the H. Parc, 12 to 20 frs.; Ambassadeurs, 12 to 20 frs.; Mombrun, +12 to 20 frs.; and the Grand Hôtel, 12 to 16 frs., all first-class. + + +opp. 359 +plan of Vichy + + +Vichy: Hotels and their Charges. + +The following, also round the Parc, are equally comfortable, but the +furniture is not so costly. +The H. des Thermes, 10 to 12 frs., adjoining the Villa Strauss, in +which Napoleon III. resided; Cherbourg, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the +Princes, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the G. H. de la Paix, 12¾ to 15¾ frs.; the +G. H. Velay et des Anglais, 9½ to 13½ frs.; Royal Hotel, +Amirauté, 7½ to 10½ frs.; and H. de la Restauration. Almost +adjoining the Ambassadeurs, the H. Moliere, 8½ to 12½ frs., +a smaller house. In all the above hotels, excepting in the first +three, servants are taken at the rate of 6 frs. per day. The above +prices include everything except the charge of 1 fr. for candles at +the end of the stay. + +Adjoining the north corner of the Etablissement, near the Grande Grille, +is the G. H. des Bains, 9 to 14 frs. Opposite the Etablissement, +the H. Britannique, 7½ to 10 frs.; the Richelieu, 8½ to 10½ frs.; +and behind it the H. Grande Grille, 8½ to 11½ frs., a more +handsome house. + +In the Rue Petit, near the Châlets in the Boulevard National, +*H. d’Amerique, 9 to 10 frs., a clean quiet house, generally +full. + +In the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville at the south end of the Parc are the +H. d’Espagne, 6½ to 10 frs., a small house served principally +by the family; and the Deux-Mondes, 8½ to 10½ frs., fronting likewise +the Place Rosalie. The fraction in the prices is for service. + +In the Place Rosalie are the Source de l’Hôpital and the Banque +de Vichy, where circular notes are cashed and money changed. + +In the Rue de Nîmes, a busy street, separated from the Parc by a row of +houses, is the H. de Nice, 8½ to 10 frs.; one side faces the +church. On the other side of the church is the *H. Notre Dame, 9½ +to 10½ frs. Then follow the G. H. du Centre, 7 to 10 frs.; +H. Fénélon; H. du Regence, 8 to 9½ frs.; Orleans and Milan +same price. + +In the Rue de Paris, the street between the town and the railway +station, are the G. H. du Louvre et de Reims, 7 to 10 frs., open +all the year; Univers, 8 to 10 frs.; *Rome, 7½ to 9½ frs.; the Suisse; +H. Dubessay; *Couronne, 8½ to 9½ frs.; Beaujolais; Brest, 7 to 8½ +frs.; Cote d’Or, 7 to 7½ frs.; Globe, 7 frs., open all the +year—all between the railway station and the Etablissement. + +At the end of the Rue de Paris, in the Rue de Ballore, the G. Hôtel +Maussant, 8 to 10 frs. In the Avenue Victoria, behind the military +hospital, and in front of the petrifying spring, is the H. de +Provence, 6 to 9 frs. In front of hospital, Hotel Lucas. + +In the Rue de Nîmes, between the Parc and the Parc des Celestins, are +the G. H. Palais, 7½ to 10 frs.; Genève; Milan; Bordeaux. Near +360 + +the entrance into the Parc des Celestins, the H. Venise, 8 to +9 frs. and the H. Palais-Royal. + +There are a great many maisons meublées, in which furnished rooms are +let at prices varying from 4 to 8 frs., and ½ fr. for service. +Lodgers can always have a breakfast prepared for them of coffee, bread, +and eggs, without any extra charge, but the dinner is more troublesome. +Among the maisons meublées are the Villa Sévigné (in which Madame +resided) in the Boulevard National, near the Source Larbaud. + +Travellers wishing to inspect the hotels and maisons meublées before +deciding which to take should alight at one of the hotels in the Rue de +Paris, as they are nearest the station, and sufficiently comfortable +without being expensive. + +Close to the principal establishment, in the Rue Lucas, is one of the +best apothecary shops, the Pharmacie Durin, where information regarding +the different doctors can be had. + +Vichy, during the season, from 15th May till the end of September, forms +a most enjoyable residence. It is full of comfortable hotels presided +over by civil landlords, charging various prices from 6½ to 25 frs. per +day, which includes wine, service, and everything else. The best +situations are the Parc and in the contiguous streets. +Tastefully-planned grounds, called the Neuf Parc, extend between the +town and the Allier, crossed here by a handsome bridge, on the site +where Caesar built his wooden bridge. On an eminence at the southern end +of Vichy are the old town and the old parish church of St. Blaise, 13th +and 14th cents. In works undertaken for the railway numerous coins have +been dug up bearing the effigy of the Gallic chief Vercingetorix, as +well as many Roman objects belonging to all the epochs of the empire. In +1402 Louis II., Duke of Bourbon, surrounded Vichy with a moat and +fortified walls, within which he erected his castle; but of it all that +remains is the great clock-tower or belfry. + +Vichy: Mineral Water Establishment. + +At the head of the Rue de Paris, on the north end of the Pare, is the +Mineral Water +Establishment, composed of two large buildings—1st, The +“Grand Etablissement,” containing only first-class baths; +a parallelogram 167 ft. long by 250 broad, provided with 100 +cabinets with baths, and traversed by a gallery from N. to S., having on +the western side the gentlemen’s baths, and on the eastern side the +ladies’. At the extremity of this passage is an inhaling-room. Each bath +costs 2½ frs., including service and linen. An hour and a quarter is +allowed, including dressing. Below the baths are large reservoirs. In +front of the entrance to the central gallery, near the spring Chomel, is +the _office_ for the taking down of the bathers’ names and for the +sale of the bath tickets. + +2d, Separated by a narrow street is a similar edifice in which second +and third class baths are given, costing respectively 1½ frs. and 60 c. +each. The difference in the price of the baths arises from the quality +of the accommodation and the amount of linen and towels supplied. The +baths themselves are the same, and are filled too from the same springs. +The two buildings contain together 350 baths and 150 +361 + +shower-baths, and during the season as many as 4000 baths can be given +in a single day. They commence at 3.30 a.m. and continue till 5 p.m., but at one part of the season till even later. +But it must always be remembered that the external application of the +water is not nearly so important as the internal. Patients may visit +Vichy, at any time; but the season suited to follow with success the +course of treatment is from the 15th May till the beginning of October. +The month of May is sometimes rainy. August and September are generally +the driest months, and the most equable. The Vichy treatment lasts from +3 to 4 weeks. The waters are taken in the morning and during the day, +and baths daily or every second day. For elderly people with sanguine +and irritable temperaments and delicate constitutions the duration of +the bath should not be more than 20 or even 15 minutes. + +Vichy: Casino. The Vichy Springs. + +At the south or opposite end of the Parc is the Casino, a handsome +comfortably-furnished edifice. The ballroom is 60 ft. long by 38 wide +and 45 high, and lighted by five large bay windows looking into the +park. The decorations are of the period of Louis XIV., with +elegantly-painted walls and ceiling. A gallery, running across the +building in a lateral direction, separates the ballroom from the +theatre, which occupies the centre of the Casino and contains seats for +800 persons. The remainder of the building is occupied by the reading, +billiard, and gambling rooms, and a saloon for ladies. One entrance +ticket, 2 frs.; a month, 25 frs. There is music every morning, +a concert in the afternoon, and theatricals in the evening. +A great quantity of journals and reviews are at the disposal of +members; also books, pianos, and music. A professor of billiards is +attached to the Casino. + +The Vichy +Springs.—The Vichy waters are stimulating, but not tonic. +They are gaseous and alkaline, their principal constituents being +carbonic acid and the bicarbonate of soda. They differ materially from +each other only in temperature. They are easily digested and readily +eliminated into the system, where they restore the vitality of the +organs below the diaphragm. None of the springs possess any special +specific property, the best for the patient being that which agrees best +with him. Nevertheless, experience has detected certain peculiarities +which may assist him to discover the most suitable spring. The maximum +quantity which can be taken daily with advantage is from 24 to 28 oz. +The usual dose is four glasses of 5 or 6 oz., taken at different times +throughout the day, and not necessarily from the same spring. The water +may with advantage be mixed with the wine taken at dinner. Carafes are +filled at the springs without any charge. In the shops are sold +graduated glasses of 150 to 180 grammes, divided into three equal parts. +30 grammes equal 1 oz. + +The Springs and their peculiarities.—Under the vestibule of +the principal establishment are three important springs—the Grande +Grille, the Puits-Chomel, and the Mesdames (see plan). + +Vichy: Grande-Grille, Chomel, Mesdames. + +The +Grande-Grille, 110° Fahr., is slightly aperient, and is employed +362 + +with success by persons suffering from indigestion, obstructions of the +viscera, congestion of the liver, spleen, biliary calculi, and +gravel. + +The Puits-Chomel, 113° Fahr. The water of this +spring possesses marked anodyne properties, which render it very +valuable whenever the weakened state of the constitution or its +irritability requires to be moderately excited. Of all the Vichy waters +it contains the least carbonic acid without being more difficult of +digestion, and as, on the other hand, it is the most mineralised, it can +in many cases profitably replace the other springs. + +Mesdames, 61° Fahr., +highly chalybeate, is beneficial in cases of chlorosis, amenorrhœa, and +in debility following loss of blood. In cases where the constitution has +been weakened without any evident derangement it stimulates the energy +of the digestive functions so as to enable the patient to recover his +usual strength. + +The only other spring in the establishment is the Puits-Carré, 113° +Fahr., which rises in the centre of the building, and is used for +supplying the baths. + +Vichy: Prunelle, Parc, Hôpital, Celestins. + +About 100 yards E. from the principal establishment, in a building +opposite the military hospital, is the Source Prunelle, a cold spring, +recommended for diseases of the liver, gravel, and calculi. +A little farther E. is the Source Lucas, 84° Fahr., +principally employed in baths for diseases of the skin. As a drink it is +beneficial where the organs are more disturbed than diseased. In the +park, opposite the Hôtel de la Paix, is the Source du Parc, 71° Fahr., recommended for +sluggish action of the digestive organs, atonic derangement of the +intestines, and affections of the bronchial tube caused by chronic +irritation or catarrh. At the N. end of the Casino, in front of the town +hospital, is the Source de l’Hôpital or Rosalie, 89° Fahr., +resembling very much the Grande Grille, but less exciting. It is +recommended to those affected with diseases of the digestive organs, +dyspepsia, gastritis, obstinate diarrhœa, and dysentery; and is +particularly useful to literary men whose digestive functions are +deranged from mental labour. It renders important service in ovarian +tumours and other diseases of females. + +A short way up the river by the Boulevard des Celestins are the five +important springs, the Sources des Celestins, 54° and 58° Fahr., +of which the nearest is under a handsome artificial grotto. They are +largely exported, and have the same action, the only question being +their respective degree of efficacy. Those who chiefly frequent these +springs are invalids suffering from gout, gravel, and affections of the +urinary organs, whose stomachs are sufficiently sound to be able to +digest the water easily. Otherwise it is best to commence with either +the “Hôpital” or the “Grande Grille” spring. In all cases the water of +the Springs Celestins should be drunk moderately and with caution. Just +beyond the Celestins, at the end of the Boulevard and near the Parc des +Celestins, are the Lardy springs and establishment. The water, 77° +Fahr., which rises from a depth of 620 ft., has a stimulating +363 + +action on the mucous membrane of the stomach, is easily eliminated, and +is generally drunk after meals by the Vichy invalids. “Stomach disorder, +attended with heartburn and acidity, is in many cases capable of being +cured or materially relieved by the use of one or other of the Vichy +waters. When complicated with pain (gastralgia) and diminished power of +the stomach, the Hôpital spring in some cases, the Lardy and Mesdames in +others, would be most likely to have a beneficial effect: in other +cases, where a more energetic action is required, the Grande Grille +would be preferable.” —_Dr. E. Lee._ + +Source Hauterive. Influence of Vichy Water. + +3 m. S. from Vichy, on the W. bank of the Allier, is the Source Hauterive, +57° Fahr., used principally for exportation. In therapeutical qualities +it resembles the Celestins. + +The +principal use of the Vichy waters is in the treatment of gout, and +in chronic diseases of the stomach and abdominal viscera, such as +dyspepsia, chronic hepatic disease, biliary calculi, fatty degeneration +or cirrhosis, and in hæmorrhoidal affections, which are so often +connected with congestion of the liver. They are equally serviceable in +enlargements of the spleen and in many cases of hypochondriasis. +Moreover, this spa is specially adapted for the cure of some of the +chronic diseases of women connected with disordered menstruation, and +for the anomalous “critical complaints” which often set in at the period +of life when this function ceases. “The complaint for which nine-tenths +of the English visitors drink these springs is gout; but it should be +distinctly understood that Vichy water is not a specific for gout; it +can only act on the gouty diathesis by improving the tone of the +digestive organs, augmenting the secretions, and correcting the +abnormally acid condition of the blood.” —_Madden’s Health +Resorts._ “The Vichy waters do not cure gout. They have, however, +a very beneficial effect when administered with caution in cases of +either hereditary or acquired gout, whether articular or internal, acute +or chronic. The proper time to use the waters is in the interval of +attacks, and as far as possible from the last attack. If too near the +last attack, a repetition is to be feared, and there is almost as +much danger in provoking nature as in resisting its action in a crisis.” +—_Dr. Daumas._ “We may then sum up the effects of a Vichy +course, when judiciously prescribed, as restorative to the digestive and +assimilative functions, and invigorative to the general health. The tone +of the stomach is soon improved, digestion becomes easier and more +rapid, pain and weight after food disappearing. The bile flows more +freely. The bowels become regular. Diarrhœa, if previously present, +ceases. The consequence of these changes is better assimilation, and +therefore flesh is often gained. With the improvement in nutrition the +colour returns to the cheeks and energy to the mind.” —_Dr. +P. James._ + +364 + + +CHEMICAL ANALYSIS of the Principal Springs. + +GG = Grande Grille. +Ch = Chomel. +Md = Mesdames. +L = Lucas. +P = Park. +H = Hopital. +Ce = Célestins. +Hr = Hauterive. + + +Acids and Bases contained in each litre. + NAMES OF THE SPRINGS. + +GG Ch Md L P H Ce Hr +Carbonic Acid 4.418 4.429 5.029 5.348 5.071 4.719 4.705 5.640 +Sulphuric „ .164 .164 .141 .164 .177 .164 .164 .164 +Phosphoric „ .070 .038 traces .038 .076 .025 .050 .625 +Arsenic „ .001 .001 .002 .001 .001 .001 .001 .001 +Hydrochloric Acid .332 .334 .222 .324 .344 .324 .234 .334 +Silica .070 .070 .032 .050 .055 .050 .060 .071 +Protoxide of Iron .002 .002 .012 .002 .002 .002 .002 .008 +Lime .169 .169 .235 .212 .239 .222 .180 .168 +Strontia .002 .002 .002 .008 .003 .003 .003 .002 +Magnesia .097 .108 .134 .088 .068 .064 .105 .160 +Potash .182 .192 .098 .146 .151 .228 .163 .098 +Soda 2.488 2.536 1.957 2.501 2.500 2.500 2.560 2.368 + +Totals 7.997 8.043 7.866 8.877 8.687 8.302 8.327 9.039 + +Saline ingredients +in each litre. +Free Carbonic Acid .908 .768 1.908 1.751 1.555 1.067 1.049 2.183 +Bicarb. of Soda 4.883 5.091 4.016 5.004 4.857 5.029 5.103 4.687 + „ Potash .352 .371 .185 .282 .292 .440 .315 .189 + „ +Magnesia .303 .338 .429 .275 .213 .200 .328 .501 + „ +Strontia .303 .003 .003 .005 .005 .005 .005 .003 + „ Lime .434 .427 .604 .545 .614 .570 .462 .432 + „ Protox. of +Iron +.004 .004 .026 .004 .004 .004 .004 .017 +Sulphate of Soda .291 .291 .250 .291 .314 .291 .291 .291 +Phosphate .130 .070 traces .070 .140 .046 .091 .046 +Arseniate .002 .002 .003 .002 .002 .002 .002 .002 +Chloride of Sodium +.534 .534 .355 .518 .550 .518 .534 .534 +Silica .070 .070 .032 .050 .055 .050 .060 .071 + +Totals 7.914 7.959 7.811 8.797 8.601 8.222 8.244 8.956 + +The Larbaud spring, which is not given in this analysis, differs only +slightly from the Célestins. + +In a garden of a house in the Boulevard Victoria is a petrifying +spring, containing a large quantity of the carbonate of lime. + + +Vichy: Drives. + +Excursions. + +CAB FARES.—The +course within the town from 6 a.m. to +12 p.m. with 1 horse, 1½ fr.; 2 +horses, 2½ frs. By time, carriage and 1 horse, first hour, 3 frs., +and 2 frs. each successive hour. Half the day, 9 frs.; the +day, 18 frs. Carriage with 2 horses, first hour, 4 frs., the +following hours, 3 frs. each. The half-day, 12 frs. 50 c.; the day, +25 frs. + +Art. 17—The price for the first hour, in or outside Vichy, is +always fully charged although the coachman has not been employed the +entire hour. All the other hours are divided and paid by quarters. + +365 + + +Art. 18.—The day is fixed at 12 hrs., which comprises 2 hrs. for +rest; the half-day at 6 hrs., and 1 hr. for rest. + +For drives with a fixed destination the price should be settled +beforehand. The following are the usual prices. To the Casino des +Justices (about 2 m. beyond Gusset), there and back, 1 horse, +7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs. The same prices are charged, there and +back, from Vichy to Charmeil, Côte St. Amand, Hauterive, Les Malavaux, +and Montagne-Verte. To the Ardoisière, there and back, 1 horse, +8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs. To Chateldon and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; +2 horses, 20 frs. To Busset and back by the Ardoisière, 1 horse, 16 +frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs. To Maulmont and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2 +horses, 20 frs. To Randan by Bois-Randenez, return by Maulmont, 1 horse, +18 frs.; 2 horses, 24 frs. + +Cusset. + +Cusset, pop. 6200, on the +Sichon, 2 m. E. from Vichy. _Inn:_ H. du Centre, in the +Place de la Halle, near the church. Omnibus, 20 c. At the entrance into +the town is the Etablissement Thermal Ste. Marie, a neat +building of red and black brick, with a large entrance flanked with +turrets. Opposite are the “Sources Ste. Marie” and Elizabeth, both cold. +The baths cost 1½ fr. From 9 in the morning till 2 in the afternoon only +1 fr. is charged. The waters are of the same class as those of +Vichy, but have a little more soda and iron. + +From Cusset a pleasant road leads to Les Malavaux, 2½ m. S.E. Take +the road to Les Guitons the length of the bridge, which do not cross, +but walk up by the course of the stream Joland. The hill to the right is +called the “Côte des Justices,” because on it criminals suffered the +extreme penalty of the law. Shortly afterwards the valley narrows into a +miniature gorge between basaltic rocks, and situated in the prettiest +part, 1¼ m. from the bridge, is an inn with refreshment rooms. +Pension per day, 10 frs. Beyond the inn the valley gradually widens and +flattens. From the inn are visited the Puits du Diable; and on the +Malavaux the Fontaine des Sarrasins and the scanty ruins of a castle +said to have been built by the Knight Templars; admission, 1 fr. +each. + +Montagne-Verte. Grivats. + +2½ m. N. from Vichy by the Rue de Ballore is the Montagne-Verte, 1288 +ft. above the sea, with a restaurant on the top, whence there is a good +view of the surrounding country. This road makes the nicest walk in the +neighbourhood of Vichy. At about a mile it passes by the cemetery. + +Vichy to +Busset by Cusset and the Ardoisière, 10 m. S. Return +by St. Yorre, where the rail may be taken. + +The road passes by Cusset and then extends southwards by the side of the +Sichon. The first village passed on the Sichon is Grivats, famous for the manufacture of the Toiles +de Vichy, called also Grivats, a variegated cotton stuff used for +gowns and petticoats. The best quality, made only at Grivats, costs 1½ +fr. the mètre (1 ⅛ yard); the inferior qualities, made chiefly at +Roanne, cost from 75 c. to 1 fr. the mètre. At Grivats they are all +made by handlooms in the houses of the weavers. Among the best shops in +Vichy for this article is that of Delorme-Desfougères, Rue de +l’Hôpital. + +366 + + +From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country, reaches +the Ardoisière, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7½ m. S. from +Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned slate +quarry, charge to visit 1 fr., but it is not worth entering. The +favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the Cascade +du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1 fr., which, unless after heavy rains, are +very small; and to the ruins of the Château des Templiers on the top of +Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive view. + +Busset. Randan. + +The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. towards +Busset, 2½ m. from the Ardoisière, or 10 m. from Vichy by this +road. Busset is a poor +village at the foot of a hill, on which is the Château Bourbon-Busset, +built in 1319, but restored since. Admission readily granted. Splendid +view from the Tour de Riom. W. from Busset, on the E. side of the +Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail may be taken to Vichy, +5 m. N. + +Nearly 8 m. S.E. from the Ardoisière by the valley of the Suhan and the +village of Arronnes is Ferrières, with, in the neighbourhood, the ruins +of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent, the +Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fées, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time required +from Vichy and back, 8 hrs. + +Vichy to +Randan.—Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11.20 +a.m.; arrives at Randan at 1 p.m.; leaves Randan at 3.20, and is back to Vichy by +5. Fare there and back, 2½ frs. The castle of Randan is open on +Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4 m., by Maulmont +costs 3½ frs. + +Vesse-Intermittent-Spring. + +The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left +hand a small house with the sign Source +Intermittente. In the garden is the very interesting +intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every 6 or 7½ hours, when it +rises from a depth of 375 ft. to the height of 16 ft. above the surface. +During the irruption, which lasts 30 minutes, the water has a milky hue, +from the quantity of air it contains. Admission, 25 c. + +From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of the +stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Séchauds and the Bois +Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern +extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion +belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with +several drawings by the gifted Marie d’Orleans, the rooms of Madame +Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, a beautiful little +chapel, and a large kitchen (see p. 368). +From Randan the road leads due E. through the woods to the hunting-seat +of Maulmont, constructed by Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the +site of an old commandery of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier +is crossed by the suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey +may be made by rail or by the high road along the E. side of the +river. + +St. Yorre. Ris. Chateldon. + +Vichy to +Thiers by rail, 22 m. S., changing at Courty. 5 m. S. from +Vichy are the village of St. +Yorre and the Larbaud mineral +367 + +water establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The +water, which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft. + +The next station S. from St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon, +5 m. from St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. from the +station the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension +bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1 m. W. The +broad road opposite the station leads to Ris (pronounce the s) about 1 m. E. It is a +large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the principal street. +The church, 12th and 13th cents., has narrow aisles and nave and +semicircular apse. + +For Chateldon, 3¼ m. +S.E. from station, take the road that follows the rail southward to +second road left. This village, more interesting than Ris, is situated +in the little valley of the stream Vauziron, surrounded by hills covered +with vineyards. In the “Place” is the principal inn, the H. Camin, +pension 6 to 7 frs., whence the coach starts for the station, but +not for every train. The house with the mineral water springs is up at +the other end of the village, by the side of the Vauziron. + +Maringues is 11½ m. W. from the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy +de Guillaume, 3¼ m. S. from the station. + +Thiers. + +23½ m. S. from Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of +Thiers, pop. 16,230. +_Inns:_ *Paris; Aigle d’Or; Univers; all near each other, and on +almost the same level as the station. Also approached by rail from +Clermont, passing through a mountainous country. + +Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is +built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft. +above the sea, but only 405 ft. above the old prison near the “Place.” +At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns +the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the +different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped +surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The manufacture +of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the inhabitants. +The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in the houses of +the workmen, each individual of the family taking the part in the +manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the foot of Mt. +Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers, of the 11th +cent., excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th. From the chancel +a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle to the Margeride. +The church in the high part of the town to the left is St. Jean, 14th +cent., with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St. Jean is St. Genest, +built in about 1020. It has been recently restored. Over the second +altar, left or north of the high altar, is a fresco, 16th cent., +representing Mary among angels entering heaven. The painted glass is +modern. 3 m. S.E. from Thiers is the village of Escoutoux, where a +pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de la Dore. Excellent +butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest are flat and thin, but +the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the Stilton in shape and colour. +The best of the thin moist cheeses are those of +368 + +Mont d’Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From Thiers the +country becomes most picturesque all the way to St. Etienne, the line +winding its way around the steep sides of lofty mountains with roaring +torrents in the deep ravines below. After leaving Thiers it follows the +course of the Durolle to its source. 3¼ m. from Thiers by rail is +the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see below). + +Vichy to the Château d’Effiat, 18 m. S.W. by the villages of Vesse (or +Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier. + +The Château d’Effiat (15th cent.) belonged in the 16th cent. to Antoine +Coiffier Ruse, a marshal of France, whose eldest son was the +unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous Scotch +financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his creditors. The +castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now partially +restored. 3¾ m. W., on the line between Gannat and Clermont, is +Aigueperse, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ St. Louis. A coach runs +between Aigueperse and Randan, 8 m. E. (see below). Between Vichy +and the railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Château of +Charmeil on the Allier, 3¾ m. N. from Vichy. It forms a pleasant +afternoon drive. + +2 m. N. from St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of the +Château de Billy (14th cent.), formerly one of the strongest and most +imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old houses. + +17 m. N.E. by rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on the +Bèbre, pop. 2830; _Inn:_ H. de l’Écu; with a castle (14th +cent.) on an eminence overlooking the town (see p. 346). + + +PARIS +224 +SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT, 867 ft. above the +sea. + + +Gannat. Aigueperse. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +235½ +294½ +GANNAT, pop. 6000. +_Inns:_ Nord; Poste. A town of crooked streets, on the +Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church of St. +Croix (choir 11th cent., nave reconstructed in the 14th cent.), is a +good specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows are +by J. du Paroy. In the “Place” are two houses, one belonging to the +Dukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent. +Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system of +the Chemins de Fer d’Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and the +Feudal Castles on the Loire. See Black’s _Normandy, Brittany, and +Touraine_. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +242 +288 +AIGUEPERSE, pop. +2600. _Hotels:_ St. Louis; Lion d’Or. The finest building is the +Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Hôtel de Ville is in a convent of +the Ursulines, built in 1650. A coach from this station goes to +Randan in the Limagne, 8 m. E., pop. 2000, with a beautiful castle +of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in +369 + +1822 by Mme. Ad. d’Orleans. 2½ m. distant, on the border of the forest +of Randan, is another castle constructed by Mme. in the style of the +Middle Ages. See under excursions from Vichy. + +Riom. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +253 +277 +RIOM, 1105 ft. above the sea, +pop. 11,000. _Inns:_ H. Paris; Poste; Puy-de-Dome. Diligences +to Volvic, 3¼ m. S.W.; to Châtelguyon, 5 m. N.; and to +Châteauneuf, 20 m. N.W. The most interesting church in Riom is St. +Amable, 12th cent., with a large nave supported on 14 piers, each pier +having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept is the +same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. Near St. +Amable is the Tour de l’Horloge, 16th cent., and close to it a few 15th +and 16th cent. houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l’Horloge, is +the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of the +Palais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent., consisting of a +choir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the building +called the “Hôtel Chabrol” is the museum and picture gallery. + +20 m. N.W. from Riom, by diligence starting at 6 a.m., are the mineral baths of Châteauneuf, pop. 1000. +_Hotels:_ Viple; Denys; Mossier. Water saline. Temperature of the +fourteen springs from 60° to 102° Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of +the liver, neuralgia, nervous affections of the heart, cutaneous +diseases, glandular swellings. Bath, 1 fr. + +5 m. N. from Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of Châtelguyon, +most picturesquely situated among mountains. _Hotels:_ Bains; +Thermes; Barthélemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment with every +accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the bowels, +gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp. 100° +Fahr. + +3½ m. S.W. from Riom by diligence is Volvic, pop. 4000, built on lava. Visit the church, +the Musée in the Mairie, and the workshops where the lava brought from +the quarries of the Puy de la Nugère is hewn (see p. 377). + +Clermont-Ferrand. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +260½ +269½ +CLERMONT-FERRAND, 1335 ft. above the sea, +pop. 43,000, on an eminence crowned by the cathedral, of which the +principal façade, the west entrance, is towards the Place de Jaude, +while the chancel or eastern end is towards the railway station. +_Hotels:_ in the Place de Jaude are the *Univers; *Poste, for +commercials; Europe. Just off the Place de Jaude are the Paix; France. +All the above are large houses. Near the Académie and the Botanic +Gardens, the H. des Facultés, a small but good house. Among +the hotels in front of the station the best is the H. des +Voyageurs. +370 + +Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St. Amand, and +Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of the Puy-de-Dome (see page 372). In the “Place” are a +large cabstand and offices where carriages may be hired for +excursions. + +Clermont-Ferrand: Post Office. Cathedral. + +The general post +office is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. side of the +cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence there is a +charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Herem is a +bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture. +A little beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue +is the Temple Protestant, service 1 p.m. The first narrow street beyond the post office +leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante. + +Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the +moist and crystalline (glacé) state. + +The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the Cathedral, +founded in the 9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt +and Volvic lava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round +belfry on the N. side is 165 ft. high. Round the nave and choir are +twenty-eight, or, including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled +piers, which rise nearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and +immediately above, the triforium, having over each arch a treble window +resting on four fascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir +contracts towards the apsidal termination the piers become less massive +and the arches ⅓ narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows +of the nave dates from the 15th cent.; but only a few are complete, +having been injured by a hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the +apse and in the N. transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the +rose of the S. transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock, +with its three men to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th +cent. Ten chapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. side is +a miracle-working image of Mary and Child. + +The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 Passage +Vernines, a small kind of court near the right or S. angle of the +principal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by going +to the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of which +is a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through the +shop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he was +born. + +Clermont-Ferrand: Notre Dame Du Port. + +The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de la +Poterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains. +371 + +The large block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais de +Justice, the Hôtel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyond +these buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to Notre Dame du +Port, built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored +in 866, according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. transept. +The exterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental +friezes, while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns +in mosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal +tower. + +In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round +the nave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their +capitals sculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel is +surrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more or +less stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium is +massive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in the +window behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. and N. +ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent. + +Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns. +Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Mary +and child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. deep, in 578, +when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well, +which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed with +miraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitude +for favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the woman +Mary. + +It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope Urban II. +and Peter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake +the first crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an +immediate inspiration, exclaimed with one voice, “It is the will of +God!” which words became the signal of battle in all the future exploits +of the Crusaders. + +The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide +Rue Lagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated the +Académie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms, +the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the Public +Library founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese. + +Clermont-Ferrand: Botanic Gardens. + +Behind the Academy are the Botanic Gardens, in which a considerable +part is wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit +trees and vines. Attached is the École de Pisciculture, with tanks and a +small aquarium. Near the Academy is the Hôtel Dieu. +372 + +Tolerable wine is made at Puy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and +flat, and does not sit easily on the stomach. + +Romagnat. + +3¾ m. S. from Clermont is Romagnat, pop. 2000, at the foot of +M. Rognon, 1875 ft., and 1½ m. more is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft., +the site of the principal city of the Averni, which was successfully +defended by Vercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Cæsar, +whom he compelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters are +supposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also under +Les Laumes, +p. 19.) + +Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to the +Puy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l’Arbre; +or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the +Baraque, and ascend by the S. side, which is easier. + +The Puy-de-Dome +is 4806 ft. above the level of the sea, has no crater, and is covered +with a long tufted grass, with here and there a rough spongy rock +cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, of which the +variety found here, and almost here alone, has been named domite. It is +grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, often friable, and with +flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposed trachyte, in which +the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. The most perfect +craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. high, and the Nid de la +Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory, connected with +the keeper’s house by an underground way. On the Puy are also the ruins +of the chapel of St. Bernabé, 2d or 3d cent., and of a Gallo-Roman +temple to Mercury. + +For Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by +Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, see p. 376. Junction at Clermont +with rail to Lyons, 121 m. E. by Courty (where change for Thiers), +Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal (see p. 349). + +From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nîmes ascends the course of the +Allier to La Bastide, 116 m. S. Some parts of the valley are +very picturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267 m., Le +Cendre, 1145 ft.; 270¼ m., Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft.; +272 m., Vie-le-Comte, 1164 ft.; 276½ m., Coudes. The station +is near the Allier, 1173 ft., but the town is on the top of an adjoining +hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux, 13th cent. + +Issoire. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +282½ +247½ +ISSOIRE, pop. 6400, and +1200 ft. above the sea-level. _Hotels:_ Poste; Pezissat; opposite +each other in the principal street. It is a clean little town. The +principal church, founded in the 10th cent., is a highly interesting +specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. The +373 + +exterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are just +sufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while the +elegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of the +characteristic beauties of the style. A mosaic decoration of +differently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round the +chancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St. +Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudy +painting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises the +eye on entering. The crypt (10th cent.), below the chancel, but not +below the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing a +complex series of arches around a central arch, under which is the +altar. + +Le Breuil. Ardes. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +287¾ +242¼ +LE BREUIL, 1287 ft., +pop. 1000. Opposite station, _Inn:_ H. Beranger. Coaches await +passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town, 2 m. W., +and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through a hilly +and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4¼ m. from St. Germain, +a bathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing the +carbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas. +2½ m. farther is Ardes; +_Inns:_ Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence rising from the Couze. +In the low part of the village is the church, 11th cent., but restored +and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone cross (1519) with Mary and +Child against it, resting on a demure-looking figure holding an open +book. The valley of the Couze, between high wooded mountains and great +basaltic cliffs, offers an excellent field for geological and botanical +rambles, while the river itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot +of the mountains, through little meadows by the side of the road, +contains excellent trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below +are apricot, apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed +among small vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic +formation is between the first bridge and the village of Rentière, +perched on a basalt cliff rising from the road. A little way +beyond, on the right or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff +resembling a statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About +4½ m. up the valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravière, destroyed +by lightning in 1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest +and most imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About +5 m. up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of +St. Pesade. + +2½ m. S. from Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, a village with mineral +waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. above the sea. +Between Brassal, _Inn:_ Chevalier, 3¾ m. farther S., 1322 ft. +above the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin +clay. + +Arvant. Brioude. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +298 +232 +ARVANT, 1400 ft., a dirty +hamlet on the Vergonghéon, an affluent of the Allier. The best of the +inns is the H. Voyageurs. +374 + +Junction here with the line to Capdenac, 110 m. S.W., traversing +the whole of the interesting geological region of the Cantal. (See +Black’s _South France_, West Half.) + +From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30½ m. S.W. from Arvant, commences +the loop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the lofty +woodless highlands of Lozère, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wine +and olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line, +between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11¾ m. S. from +Neussargues, 7 m. S. from St. Flour, and 37½ m. N. from +Marvejols, is the highest bridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit, +which crosses the ravine of the Truyère 400 ft. above the river. The +span of the great arch is 541½ ft., and the length of the viaduct +1851 ft. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +304 +226 +BRIOUDE, 1430 ft. above +the sea, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ *Nord; Commerce. A dirty town on a +tableland, 1¼ m. from the Allier. The parish church St. Julien +(restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. façade, of red +sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the three portals. +The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plain buttresses, over +which rises a low square tower. On the S. side of the church is another +portal, preceded by a massive portico on three large semicircular +arches, resting on short square piers with attached columns bearing +large foliaged capitals. On the N. side is a similar entrance, but +plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal in the +two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at a +lower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in a +cornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above the +chapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and white +stones. + +The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square piers +with attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliaged +capitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-up +triforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have a +profusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and some +beautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt. + +Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the +Hôtel de Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the +plain. + +St. Georges-d’Aurac. Langeac. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +318½ +211½ +ST. +GEORGES-D’AURAC, 1872 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Lombardin, +near the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32 m. E., and for +St. Etienne 54½ m. farther. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.) + +375 + + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +323 +207 +LANGEAC, pop. 4800. +_Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.) Between Langeac and Langogne the +train passes through a most picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst +vast masses of basalt, either continuous or isolated, either rugged or +grooved with pentagonal columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark +ravines, between vertical cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance +while being hurried past in the train. 3¾ m. S. from Langeac is +Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000, on an eminence above the station. The +fortified tower, the remains of the old abbey, is well seen from the +rail. Just before arriving at the next station, Chazes, 8½ m. S. +from Langeac, is an interesting church, 11th cent., against a rock. Then +follow the stations of Monistrol-d’Allier, 2000 ft. (p. 91); +Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure, 2238 ft. + +Langogne. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +364½ +165½ +LANGOGNE, 2940 ft. above +the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc; Chambon. Pleasantly +situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt here. (See pp. 88 and 94, and map p. 46.) 7½ m. +farther S. is Luc station, 2900 ft.; and 4½ m. farther S., La +Bastide, 3070 ft., the culminating point of the line. A few miles +to the W. of the station is the source of the Allier. At Prevenchères, +6 m. S., the station is only 2580 ft. above the sea. The line now +passes by immense rocks and cliffs of granite. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +390 +140 +VILLEFORT, 1820 ft., +pop. 2000. A poor village on the Devèze, in a deep valley at the +foot of Mt. Lozère. Diligences at this station for Mende, passing +through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23½ m. W. + +Bagnols les +Bains, pop. 500. _Inns:_ Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi. +A poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the +Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an +unctuous and clear water, temperature 100° Fahr., efficacious in +rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the +neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and +plenty of game on the mountains. + +From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous +country by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At La Grande Combe, with the two stations +of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc mines +commence which extend to Alais. + +Alais. + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +419 +111 +ALAIS, pop. 22,000, on the +Gardon. _Hotels:_ Commerce; *Luxembourg; Champagne. Situated, like +Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and Tamaris, among coal-fields, +iron-works, and manufactories. +376 + +This is the best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of +Lozère, traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other. +Some very capital wine is made at Alais. + +Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62 m. N.E. to +Teil (see p. 96, +and map p. 56); +also to Laudun, +35½ m. E. (see p. 99, and map p. 56). + + +PARIS +MARSEILLES +450 +80 +NÎMES (see p. 101, and map p. 66). + + +467 +63 +TARASCON (see +p. 66, and map p. 66). + + +470 +60 +ARLES (see p. +68, and map p. +66). + + +499½ +30½ +ST. CHAMAS (see p. 76, and map p. 66). + + +512½ +17½ +ROGNAC (see p. +77, and map +p. 66). + + +518 +12 +PAS-DES-LANCIERS. + + + +PARIS +530 +MARSEILLES (see p. 111, and map p. 123). + + + +Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard, + +122 m. W. by rail, passing Royat 3¾ m., Durtol 5 m., Volvic +12½ m., Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m., +Pont-Gibaud 24 m., La Miouze-Rochefort 28½ m., +Bourgheade-Herment 35½ m., Laqueuille 40½ m., Meymac +73 m., and Tulle 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont and 16¼ m. +N.E. from Brive. + +Royat. + +From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends +the highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first +station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart, +adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to +Royat are H. Chabassière; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons. +Higher up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church, +founded in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was +heightened and fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept +is a low tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second. +Under the small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a +crypt supported on six colonnettes. + +In the “Place” is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of +J. C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on +consoles. The narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads +377 + +down to the Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth +sundry springs of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are +allowed to flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others +are led to Clermont, where they supply the fountains. +St. Mart. +The road, after crossing the Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart. +In the lower part of the valley, in a small park on the right side of +the Tirtaine, is the bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of +which the most important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the +establishment; temperature, 100° Fahr. The principal ingredients are the +chlorate of sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and +magnesia, and a little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The +charge is from 1½ fr. to 2½ frs. according to the season. + +Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the +establishment the H. St. Mart; the H. Splendide; Bains; +Bristol, all large first-class houses. On the road up the left bank of +the Tirtaine are the Louvre; Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre; +Sources. St. Mart is 1¼ m. from Clermont by omnibus, passing +through Chamalières. A great variety of excursions in the +neighbourhood. + + +CLERMONT +MARSEILLES +5 +117 +DURTOL, situated among high +wooded mountains. + + +Volvic. Pont-Gibaud. Laqueuille. + + +CLERMONT +MARSEILLES +12½ +109½ +VOLVIC. In the neighbourhood +of the station are large quarries of lava, the produce of the extinct +crater Puy de la Nugère, 3261 ft. Through the gap in the hill in front +of the station is an excellent view of Riom, 3½ m. E. from Volvic +by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on an eminence at the foot of Le +Puy de la Bannière. The parish church dates from the 13th cent. +Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are the principal industries +(see p. 369). + +The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17½ m., St. +Ours-les-Roches 20 m., and then arrives at the station for Pont-Gibaud, pop. 1300, +24 m. distant. _Inns:_ H. Johannel; H. Beraud. Their +omnibuses await passengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are +situated on the Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava +from the crater of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses +of the important argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood. + + +CLERMONT +MARSEILLES +40½ +81½ +LAQUEUILLE, 3624 ft. +above the sea. Change here for Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10½ m. S.E., and +for Bourboule 8 m. S.W. The beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore +passes through at about halfway the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above +the sea. Immediately below Le Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule +passes through the village of St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea. + + +opp. 378 +Environs of +MONT DORE +and LA BOURBOULE + +see caption + +378 + + +MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS + + +is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the Dordogne, +3402 ft. above the sea. _Hotels._—Considering the style of +their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in +the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes +coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The +difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around +the “Place” of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses, +Chabaury ainé; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. du +Parc and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is +rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be considered +second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are apt to charge +as much as those of the first class: H. Bardet-Chanonat; +H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H. Ramade; +H. Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a +handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and +the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the +Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the +other two are occupied by the first-class hotels. + +The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well +adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to +treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just +within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la +Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113° Fahr. Besides containing the +usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in +two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the +bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond, +temperature 107°, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises in +an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the Source +César, temperature 113°, used chiefly for baths. Towards the left-hand +end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55°, used at table +mixed with the wine. + +Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some +little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow in +and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others are +of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act upon the +more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate arrangements +for foot-bathing and for douching the nose. + +The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the +month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during +July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs then +2 frs., at other times 1½ fr.; a nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c. +Baths from 92° to 100° should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from +109° to 112°, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water +in July is 10 frs., in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the +sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by +tickets bought at the office of the baths. + +379 + + +Mont-Dore: Analysis of the Water. + +Contents of the Springs of Mont-Dore and Bourboule. + +MdS = Madeleine Spring. +PvS = Pavillon Spring. +RiS = Rigny Spring. +CsS = Caesar Spring. +RaS = Ramond Spring. +BPC = Bourboule, Perrière and Choussy Springs. + + + MdS PvS RiS CsS RaS BPCS +Free carbonic acid gas 0.3552 0.3810 0.3644 0.5967 0.4997 0.0518 +Bicarbonate of soda 0.5362 0.5452 0.5375 0.5361 0.5362 2.8920 + „ of +potash 0.0309 0.0309 0.0232 0.0212 0.0212 .... + „ of +lime 0.3423 0.3142 0.3092 0.3209 0.2720 0.1905 + „ of +magnesia 0.1757 0.1676 0.1628 0.1676 0.1647 .... + „ of +protoxide of iron +0.0207 0.0235 0.025 0.0258 0.0317 0.0021 +Chloride of Sodium 0.3685 0.3630 0.3599 0.3587 0.3578 2.8406 +Sulphate of soda 0.0761 0.0761 0.0761 0.0756 0.0737 0.2084 +Arseniate of soda 0.00096 0.00096 0.00096 0.0009 0.00095 0.02847 +Silicic acid 0.1654 0.1686 0.1653 0.1552 0.1550 0.1200 +Alumina 0.0112 0.0094 0.0101 0.0083 0.0065 Traces. + +Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of +potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both waters +is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29 times more +abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore. The +temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140° F., or 27° +above the hottest of Mont-Dore. + +These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis, +asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders +marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated, +nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases.—Madden’s _Health +Resorts_. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken +daily by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite, +and is often attended with diarrhœa about the fifth or sixth day; this +is mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which +frequently lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a +disgust of the water is generally experienced, which is an indication +that the saturation point has been obtained.—Lee’s +_Baths_. + +As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a supply of warm +clothing is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses +costs per day 20 to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day. + +Mont-Dore: Excursions. Queureuilh. + +_Excursions._—There are many +pleasant and beautiful excursions around Mont-Dore, among the volcanic +hills clothed with sombre pine forests and verdant meadows, rent at +intervals by deep gullies with sullen waters or roaring torrents in the +dark depths below, chafing against the jagged vertical cliffs of the +ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the craters which vomited forth these +confused masses of rocks and knolls over which in many places now rush +and tumble superb waterfalls. The Alpine Club have distributed over the +district a liberal supply of finger-posts, which indicate the distance +as well as the way to the different places. + +380 + + +One of the first excursions undertaken is to the Cascade du Queureuilh, about +2 m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way between the falls +and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most beautiful in this region, +is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from Lake Guéry (see below), +5 m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls. The stream, after +rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue, tumbles over a hard +basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls of Queureuilh tourists +often return by what is incorrectly called the falls of the Rossignolet, +a placid stream which enters the ravine of Enfer about half a mile +below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion may be made in a carriage. +On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs. + +Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are +made to the Cascades de l’Angle 1¾ m., to the Saut-du-Loup +1¾ m., and to the Pré du Barbier. + +Lake Guéry. Orcival. + +The excursion to Lake +Guéry, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to Randanne, cut in +the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a turning of the road, +just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a charming panoramic view +of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To the W. are the towns of Le +Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the Capucin, 4807 ft., the +Aiguilles d’Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy. Lake Guéry, one of the +shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1½ m. W. from the main road, +in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged peaks. N. from the lake, +at the entrance to a picturesque defile, stand like sentries, on the +left the Roche Tuillière, 4246 ft., one side a vertical cliff, the other +clothed with verdure; on the right the Roche Sanadoire, with huge +basaltic columns, resembling those of the Giant’s Causeway. + +4½ m. N. from Lake Guéry is the ancient village of Orcival, with an inn and a church of the 9th +and 10th cents., containing a miraculous image found near it under the +earth. 2½ m. W. from the Orcival road is the Pierre-Branlante, +a slightly movable overhanging rock. From Orcival return by the +Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11 m. S. + +N.E. from Lake Guéry, or 9½ m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller, +5076 ft., is Lake Servières, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in an +extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient camp. + +9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some +menhirs. + +The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12 m. +E. from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather +less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne. + +From Murols the road ascends 5¾ m. S. to Besse, whence it passes by Lake +Pavin to Vassivières, 5¼ m. W. from Besse. At Vassivières a +bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and Sancy (see p. 381). + +To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2 m., the +cascades of Vernière 3 m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3¼ m. (p. 385); and the top of the Puy Gros 3¾ m. (p. 385). + +Pic de Sancy. + +The most important excursion is to the summit of the Pic de +381 + +Sancy, 6188 ft. above +the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore, and 5 m. S. +from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary. Good +bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6 frs. From +the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Château-d’Eau on +the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and +shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a +landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a +little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890 ft. +To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer, separated +from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte. Shortly after, +the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft. above the sea. +A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where the Dogne, +descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a serpent. Opposite +are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A path at the foot leads to +an old alum mine. + +The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course of +the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having crossed the +infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in the marshy +meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here—25 c. charged for +taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about 20 +minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the +highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that +great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54 m. in +circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid +granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount +the Puy Ferrand, +6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6 m. N., by the Chemin des +Crètes. + +Pic de Ferrand. Lake Pavin. + +3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a poor +hamlet on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing +a miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to +the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at Vassivières, +and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried between the two +places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on the road indicate +the resting stations. 2¼ m. E. from Vassivières, or 10¼ m. +from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the Lac-de-Pavin, 3928 ft. above the sea, in the +crater of an extinct volcano, but not full to the brim. It is 2625 ft. +long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep, completely surrounded, excepting +at the outlet, by vertical cliffs from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are +let for sailing and fishing on this singular lake. At the S. end rises +the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the +Creux-de-Sancy, a circular cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of +which a stream of water is seen, supposed to come from Lake Pavin. + +3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is +Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. _Inns:_ +Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the +neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It +contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates, one +having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre of the +town is +382 + +the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it is converted +into shops and dwellings. + +Murols. + +From Besse go 5¾ m. N. to Murols, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the highway +between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses beautiful +views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil, St. Victor, +and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (_Inn:_ Nierat, pop. +700) have been built of material taken from the castle, many have +escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone of basalt, +3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a formerly important +castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence of the lords of +Murols et d’Estaing. From the top of the repaired tower is a beautiful +and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor, Lake Pavin, the +Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes, the Dent-de-Marais, +and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore, passing on the +left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625 ft. above the +sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne. A little +farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the lake, pop. +1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite mountain. + +The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back is +11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and +Murols the entire distance is 32 m. + +Salon du Capucin. Vallée d’Enfer. + +A very pleasant promenade is to the Salon du Capucin, recommended as well as the +Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the pine forest. If +on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having reached the Jubilee +cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the road to the left which +enters the forest, and after having ascended a few minutes, a stone +to the right will be seen bearing the inscription: “Petit Chemin du +Capucin,” which take. Shortly after it divides, when take the left. At +last the path enters a large open space surrounded by beeches, where +several roads meet. The road to the left goes to the Vallée d’Enfer, to +the right to the Rigolet, and the road in front to the Salon, which is +quite near. The path which divides the Salon into two parts leads up to +the top of the Rocher du Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about +2 m. S. from Mont-Dore, commanding a charming view. It owes its +name to the detached pinnacle, like a monk’s hood, called the Aiguille +du Capucin, which is rather difficult to ascend. + +To go to the Vallée +d’Enfer return to the open glade and take the Enfer path which +leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. long, near the top +of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the opening where +those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on horseback have +to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid narrow gorge +between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical dykes. From the +valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or return to Mont-Dore, +4¾ m. N. + +383 + + +Bourboule. Hotels. + +BOURBOULE. + + +8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of +the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606 +ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to the +excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of +Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their +especial virtue—the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little +milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is at +Mont-Dore. + +_Hotels._—Around the principal +establishment, called the Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand +Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers; Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H. de +¹l’Etablissement; ¹Paris; ¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne, +by the side of the Parc de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc; +Beausejour; and also the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms. + +At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste; +Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental. + +Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to +let. + +The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with first-class +prices, which vary according to the month and the story in which the +room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of August the charge +is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room and two meals with +wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. extra. Service, ½ to +1 fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From the 25th +of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to the 30th of +September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should bear this in +mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers. + +The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed upon +beforehand it will be much the same. + +Bourboule: Baths. Charges. + +The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three bathing-houses, +of which the most important is the Etablissement des Thermes, +a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the side of +the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and Plage. +Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement Chaussy +and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A part of +the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent. + +In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to +31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st +to the 30th September, 2½ frs. + +In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. less than in the +Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. less than in the Choussy. + +The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and +in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs. + +The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation +or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour, +384 + +including the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that +time pays double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr. + +Bourboule: Springs. + +The Springs. + +Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the +right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left, +in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and +Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru bathhouse. +They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap the granite, +and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92 ft. The water +pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground, a temperature of 140° +F. + +These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet +discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are the +springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central, 104°, +mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two springs +Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64° F.), and as +they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others, are drunk with +wine at dinner. + +Their Constituents and Effects. + +Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of a +gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly one +half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride of +sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the +arseniate of soda (see p. 379). +Besides the special uses of these waters arising from the arsenic, their +composition, resembling that of the serum of the blood, makes them +applicable to cases of arrested development, defective nutrition, cases +of slow convalescence, and other forms of general debility. In all +scrofulous affections, such as enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges +from mucous membranes, diseases of the bones, etc., these waters produce +great benefit. But it is more especially in the chronic forms of skin +disease that La Bourboule claims to effect the most remarkable cures, +and chiefly when they arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous +constitution, or as the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form +of pulmonary consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and +chronic bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule +waters. + + +Bourboule: Excursions. + +Bourboule Excursions. + +On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that it +is 2¼ m. from the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½ m. from the +Cascade du Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5½ m. +from Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4⅓ m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh, +4½ m. from the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾ m. from the summit +of the Puy Gros, 2½ m. from the petrifying spring, 3½ m. from +the village of St. Sauves, and 10⅘ m. from Latour. The most of +these places are between Mont-Dore and Bourboule. + +385 + + +The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially to +Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid specimens of +basaltic columns, 2¼ m. S. by a path following the right or east +bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼ m. beyond, the Vendeix path +joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses the +forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of junction, +in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont Bozat. About +1¼ m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the Clergue, where +a path descends northwards by the stream passing the Cascade +Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½ m. from Bourboule by this roundabout way, +but only 2½ m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble +into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber’s shaving basin. +A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the +cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high, +2¼ m. from Bourboule. + +On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½ m. from Bourboule +and 4 m. from Mont-Dore, a road extends 2½ m. N. to the +summit of the Puy Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea. + + +Saint-Nectaire. + +Mont-Dore to Issoire, + +31¾ m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E., and Champeix other 8¾ m. +Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½ m. +E. The Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the +Saut-du-Loup and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of +Murols, and traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge, +arrives at Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas, with a large bathing +establishment. _Hotels:_ Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc. + +N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a +large bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters. +_Hotels:_ Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline, +ferruginous, and stimulant, temperature between 75° F. and 110° F., and +are recommended for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhœa, leucorrhœa, +and gout. The specialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic +acid gas. In Mont Cornadore are large caves. + +The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen of +Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a dolmen, +of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6½ ft.; and 2½ m. distant +the cascade of the Granges. 8¾ m. beyond, towards Issoire, is +Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the +Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be ascended; +whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by the stair in +the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with caves, +3 m. from Issoire (p. 372). + +386 + + +Continuation of Route—Clermont to Brive. + +14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and +68 m. N.E. from Brive, is Eyguirande, pop. 1150. Junction here with +loop-line to Largnac, 30 m. S. Coach daily to Murat 41 m. +S., passing Mauriac 12 m. S. (see Black’s _South France_, West +Half). + +31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is Meymac, pop. 3200, on the Lozege. Romanesque church, +tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications. Junction here with +loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½ m. N., and close to Limoges. (See +_South France_, West Half.) + +Tulle. Brive-la-Gaillarde. + +16¼ m. N.E. from Brive, and 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont, is Tulle, pop. 15,500, on the Corrèze. +_Hotels:_ Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms and coarse woollens +are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called tulle. + +122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156 m. N. from +Toulouse, and 45 m. E. from Perigueux, is Brive-la-Gaillarde, pop. 12,000, on the +Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black’s _South +France_, West Half). + + + + +387 + + + +INDEX. + +When an Index entry is mentioned on more than one page, the primary +reference is listed first. As in the rest of the text, links are +visually coded; since everything in the Index is a hyperlink, color has +been omitted. Visual details may be overridden by your browser settings, +but the links will still work. + +Most Index entries have direct anchors; the rest are linked to the +top of the page. Page numbers in _b_ and _c_ indicate columns +in the printed book; the location of the page number—left or right +margin—depends on columns in the e-text. + +A–Ap +Ar–Av +B–Be +Bi–Br +C–Ce +Ch–Cl +Co–Cr +D +E +F–Flavigny +Florence A-N +Florence O-V +Fo–Fr +G–Ge +Gi–Gu +H +I +J +La +Le–Lu +Lyons +Ma +Me–Mons +Mont–Mu +N–Ne +Nice +Nicholas–Ny +O +P–Pi +Po–Pu +Q +R +S–St. N +St. P–San +Saou-Su +T–Turbie +Turin +U +V–Ve +Vi–Vo +W + + +A–Ap +Abries +344 +Acqui 184 +Agay 147 +Aiguebelle 289 +Aigueperse 368 +Aigues-Mortes +73 +Aiguilles 344 +Aime 321 +Aix-en-Provence 78, 338 + +olive oil 79 + +Aix-les-Bains 283 +—— to Geneva by Annecy 286 +Alacoque, M. M. +27 +Alais 375 +Alan 49 +Alassio +208 +Albenga +208 +Albertville 320 +—— to +Annecy 320 +Albissóla +210 +Alesia 19 + +Alessandria +280 + +Alise-St. Reine +19 +Allègre 89 +Allevard-les-Bains 336 +Allos 339 +Alvernia +279 +Alzon 105 +Amberieux 281 +Ambert 91 +Amplepuis 348 +Ampuis 81 + +wine 81 + +Amyot, Jacques 3 +Ancy-le-Franc +18 +Annecy 286 +Annonay 81 +Antibes 169, +154 +Antraigues +94 +Apricale +201 +Aps 97 +Apt 66 + +preserves 66 + +Ar–Av +Aramon 99 +Arenzano +211 +Ardèche sketch of +45 +—— coaches to 45 +—— map of 46 + +387b + + +Ardes 373 +Arezzo 279 +Arfeuilles 346 +Arlanc 90 + +Arles 68, 376 + +to +Fontvieille 71 + +to Port Bouc +72 + +to Port +St. Louis 72 + +to St. Gilles +72 + +Arma 207 +Arsac 86 +Artemart 282 +Arvant 373 +Aspres 48, 345 +Astet 89 +Asti 280 +Aubagne +122 +Aubenas 93 +Aups 145, +167 +Auribeau +156 + +Autun 24 +Auxerre 14 +Avallon 16 +Avenza 222 + +Avignon 58 + +Benezet’s bridge +63 + +—— tomb 62 + +Hotels 58 + +Hôtel de +Ville 61 + +J. S. Mill’s +tomb 63 + +Laura’s tomb 62 + +Musée Calvet +61 + +Museum of +Natural History 62 + +Notre Dame des +Doms 60 + +Popes’ palace +58 + +Rocher des Doms +60 + +St. Agricol +61 + +St. Didier +62 + +St. Joseph +62 + +St. Nicolas +63 + +St. Pierre 62 + +to Manosque +by Cavaillon 66 + +to Nîmes +64 + +to Vaucluse +64 + +to +Villeneuve 63 + +B–Be + +387c + + +Bagnoles-les-Bains 375 +Bagnoles-sur-Ceze +99 +Bains 91 +Balaruc 76 +Bandols +123 +Banges 285 +Bar 163 + +Barcelonnette 341 + +to Cuneo 341 + +to St. Paul 341 + +Bardonnecchia 291 +Barjols 143, +167 +Barrème +166 + +Baths—Acqui +184 +—— +Aix-les-Bains 283 +—— Aix-en-Provence 78 +—— +Allevard 336 +—— Bagnols 375 +—— Balaruc 76 +—— Bourboule 383 +—— +Bourbon-Lancy 358 +—— Bourbon l’Archambault 357 +—— +Challes 284, 288 +—— +Châteauneuf 369 +—— +Châtelguyon 369 +—— +Chateldon 367 +—— Cusset +365 +—— Foncaude 75 +—— Gréoulx 168 +—— La +Motte 327 +—— Lucca 230 +—— +Marlioz 284 +—— +Mont-Dore 378 +—— Neyrac 94 +—— Pougues-les-Eaux 352 +—— Royat +376 +—— Sail +348 + +—— St. +Alban 348 +—— +St. Galmier 348 +—— St. Giuliano 227 +—— St. +Honoré 354 +—— St. +Mart 377 +—— +St. Nectaire 385 +—— +Uriage 336 +—— Valdieri 181, 182 +—— Vals 103 +—— Vichy +359 +—— Vinadio 183 + +388 + + +Beage, Le 84 +Beaucaire 67 +Beauchastel 82 +Beaufort 46 +Beaujolais 29 +Beaulieu +184 +Beaune 23 +Beaurières 48 +Beausset +123 + +Bec-de-l’Homme 331 +Becket, Thomas à +11, 15, +17 +Bedoin 56 +Belgentier +129 +Bellentre 321 +Belleville +29 +Belvedère +181 +Berarde 330 +Berlingots 56 +Bernadette Soubirous 353 +Berre 77 +Bersezio 342 +Bessée 344 +—— +to Mt. Pelvoux 344 +Besse-en-Chandesse 381 +Beza, T. 15 + +Bi–Br +Billom 350 +Blaizy-Bas +20 +Bobbio 306 +Bogliasco +219 +Boileau 2 +Bollène 50 + +Bologna 315 + +Accademia 315 + +Ai Servi (church) 318 + +Annunziata 320 + +Biblioteca Communale 318 + +Bolognese school 315 + +Cabs 315 + +Certosa 320 + +Galvani 316 + +Guido’s grave 319 + +Madonna di S. Luca 320 + +Mezzofanti 316 + +Pal. Mercanzia 318 + +Pal. Zampieri 318 + +Picture gallery 315 + +S. Bartolommeo 318 + +S. Domenico 319 + +S. G. Maggiore 316 + +S. Petronio 317 + +S. Pietro 319 + +S. Stefano 318 + +S. Vitale 319 + +Torre Asinelli 317 + +Torre Garisenda 317 + +University 316 + +Bondonneau 49 + +388b + + +Bordighera +200 +Bormes 142 +Borne 89 +Bossuet, J. B. +22 +Bouillabaisse 113 +Boulerie +147 +Bourbon-Lancy baths 358 +Bourbon-l’Archambault baths +357 + +Bourboule 383 +Bourdeaux 47 +Bourg-Argental +81 +Bourg-d’Oisans 329 +—— to +Lac Blanc 329 +—— to +the Ecrin group 329 +Bourgoin 322 +Bourg-St. +Andeol 97 +Bourg-St. Maurice 321 +Breuil, Le 373 +Briançon 332 +—— to Mt. Pelvoux 333, 345 +—— to Oulx 333 +Briare 352 +Brignoles +142, 167 +Brillane 339 +Brioude 374 +Brive 386 +Brogny 287 +Brunoy 2 +Buffon, Comte de +18 +Burgundy wines 22, +23, 24 +Busalla +279 +Bussoleno 291 + +C–Ce +Cagnes 165 +Callian +162 +Camaldoli +278 +Camargue 70, +72 +Campo-Rosso +201 +Cannes 149 + +Agents 149 + +Adalbert 151, +159 + +Antibes +154 + +Auribeau 156 + +Banks 151 + +Brougham, +Lord 151, 155 + +Cabs 151 + +Californie +152 + +Canal 162, +152 + +Cannet 154 + +Castelaras +156 + +Cemetery 152 + +Churches +151 + +Clausonne 154 + +Climate +151 + +Corniche +152 + +Croisette, La +154 + +388c + + +Croix des +Gardes 155 + +Drives +152 + +Estérels +155 + +Hesperide 154 + +Hotels and +Pensions 149 + +Iron Mask +157 + +Lerins Islands +156 + +Mont Vinaigre +156 + +Mouans-Sartoux +156 + +Mougins 156 + +Cannes— + +Napoule 154 + +N. D. +d’Esperance 151 + +Observatories +151, 152 + +Pegomas 156 + +Pottery +153 + +St. Anne 151 + +St. Cassien +155 + +St. Honorat +158 + +St. Marguerite +157 + +Théoule 155 + +Vallauris +153 + +Carnoules +142 +Carpentras +54 + +Carqueyranne +141 + +Mont Negre +141 + +Mont Paradis +141 + +Carrara +222 +Casset, Le 332 +Cassini, G. D. +201 +Castellane +165 +Castellaro +206 +Cavaillon 66 +Cayres 88 +Celles-les-Bains +83 +Cercy-la-Tour 25, +354 +Certosa +184 +Cervo 208 +Cesanne 333 +Cette 75 +—— to Balaruc 76 + +Ch–Cl +Chablis 14 +Chabons 323 +Chagny 24, 355 +Chaise-Dieu +89 +Challes 284, 288 +Chalon-sur-Saône 26 +Chambertin +23 +Chambery 287 +Chambon 380 +Champeix 385 +Charenton 2 +Charmes 82 +Charmettes, Les 288 +Châteauneuf (Riom) 369 +Châteauroux 343 +Châtelard, Le 285 +Chateldon 367 +Châtelguyon 369 +Châtillon 47 + +389 + + +Châtillon (Lake Bourget) 282 +Châtillon-sur-Loing 351 +Châtillon-sur-Loire 352 +Chavanay 81 +Cheilard +83 +Chenal 341 + +Chiavari +220 +Chiomonte 291 +Chorges 342 +Cirque-d’Annibal 321 +Citeaux abbey +23 +Claix 328, 345 +Clamecy 354, 15 +Clelles 345 + +Clermont-Ferrand 369 + +Academie 371 + +Botanic gardens 371 + +Cathedral 370 + +Coaches 370 + +Hotels 369 + +Notre Dame 371 + +Pascal’s house 370 + +Peter the Hermit 371 + +Preserved fruits 370 + +Puy de Dome 372 + +Romagnat 372 + +to Brive by Mont-Dore-les-Bains and +Bourboule 376 + +to Lyons by St. Etienne 349 + +Cluny 27 + +Co–Cr +Cogoleto +210 +Cogolin +145 + +Col Abriés 307 +—— Braus 183 +—— Brouis 183 +—— Cabres 48 +—— Cerise 181 +—— Chavade 89 +—— +Croix 306 +—— Finestra 181 +—— Fremamorta 181 +—— +Lautaret 331 +—— +Longet 341 +—— +Maddalena 342 +—— Maure +339 +—— Moulières 181 +—— +Muselle 330 +—— Mulo +342 +—— Ribeyret 51 +—— Sestrières 307 +—— Tenda 183 +—— Traversette 308, 344 + +Colla, La +202 +Colmars 339 +Collobrières +130 +Columbus +211 +Condamine-Châtelard 342 +Condamine, La +189 + +389b + + +Condrieu 81 + +wine 81 +Cornigliano +212 +Corps 334 +Correggio 313 +Corsena +230 +Cosne 352 +Cote d’Or 22 +Coupe-d’Aizac +94 +Courmayeur 322 +Courpière 91 +Courty 350 +Craponne 89 +Cravant 14, 355 +Crest 46 +—— to Aspres 47 +Crissolo 308, 344 +Croisière, La +50 +Croix Blanche +105 +Cruseilles 287 +Cruzy-le-Chatel +18 +Cuers 130, +142 +Culinary terms xxiii +Culoz 282 +Cuneo 182, +279, 308 +—— to Barcelonnette 341 +—— to Nice 182 +Cusset 365 + +D +Darcey 19 +Darsac 89 +—— to Chaise-Dieu 89 +Dauphin, Le 331 +Decize 25 +Demonte 342 +Dent de Nivolet 288 +Dent-du-Chat 282 +Diano Marina +208 +Die 47 +Dieulefit 47 +Digne 166 + +Digoin 358 +Dijon 20 +Doctors’ +fees 110 +Dolce-Acqua +201 +Domène 336 +Dompierre-sur-Bebre 357 +Donzère 50 +Doussard 287 +Draguignan +145 +Duingt 287 +Duke of Berwick 356 +Duranus +180 +Durtol 377 + +E +Eaux Chaudes +166 +Embrun 343 +Enchastraye 330 +Entraque +181 +Epinac 24 +Escragnolles +165 + +389c + + +Espaly 89 + +Estaque, L’ +80 +Estérels 156, +146 +Etang 25 +Eugene Sué 286 +Eyguirande 386 +Eze 186 + +F +Fayence +145 +Fenestrelle 307 +Feurs 346 +Fiesole +276 + +Finalmarina +209 +Fix-St. Geneys +91 +Flavigny 19 + +Florence +(A-N) +Florence +233 + +Academy of +Fine Arts 271 + +Alkermes 268 + +Alvernia +279 + +Amerigo Vespucci +275 + +Arcetri 248 + +Arezzo 279 + +Badia, +La 263 + +Baptistery 256 + +Bargello 261 + +Bello +Sguardo 250 + +Bibbiena 279 + +Bibliotheca Laurentiana 266 + +—— Nazionale 236 + +Bigallo, +Il 257 + +Boboli +Gardens 246 + +Brancacci +chapel 252 + +Brunelleschi’s crucifix +268 + +Cab tariff +234 + +Camaldoli +278 + +Campanile 255 + +Cascine 276 + +Cathedral 252 + +Certosa +250 + +Dante +258 + +David, by Michael +Angelo 272 + +Donatello’s crucifix +260 + +Duomo +252 + +Florence— + +Galileo 247, 260 + +Galleria +Uffizi 237 + +Gallery of +mosaics 273 + +Guide +books 234 + +Hawkwood, John +255 + +Hospital +St. Giovanni 275 + +Hotels and +apartments 233 + +House of Amerigo +Vespucci 275 + +—— of Dante 274 + +—— of Galileo 248 + +390 + + +—— of Macchiavelli 247 + +—— of Michael Angelo +263 + +Ketterick, John 259 + +Loggia Orcagna 235 + +Luca della Robbia +ware 263 + +Masaccio 252 + +Money-changers +234 + +Monte +Oliveto 251 + +Mortuary +chapel 255 + +Mosaic +manufacture 273 + +Museum of +Etruscan Antiquities 267 + +—— Nat. Hist. 247 + +National Museum 261 + +Niobe +242 + +Florence +(O-V) +Florence— + +Ognissanti +275 + +Or St. +Michele 257 + +Palaces +273 + +Palazzo +Corsini 275 + +—— Riccardi 275 + +—— Strozzi 275 + +—— Torrigiani 276 + +—— Vecchio 274 + +Park +276 + +Pazzi chapel +260 + +Perazzi chapel +259 + +Piazza S. +Annunziata 269 + +—— S. Croce 258 + +—— Signoria 235 + +Piazzale Michelangiolo +249 + +Picture +gallery of S. Marco 270 + +Pitti +gallery 243 + +—— palace 246 + +Pontassieve +278 + +Porta +Romana 248 + +Post office +236 + +Prefettura della +Provincia 275 + +Protestant churches +234 + +Raphael 239 + +Refectory of S. Croce +261 + +Restaurants +234 + +Rucellai +chapel 268 + +Florence— + +Sagrestia Nuova 265 + +S. +Annunziata 268 + +S. Croce +258 + +S. +Giovannino 264 + +S. +Lorenzo 264 + +S. Marco +270 + +S. Maria +del Carmine 252 +390b + + +S. Maria +del Fiore +252 + +—— Novella 267 + +S. +Michele 257 + +S. +Miniato 249 + +S. +Spirito 251 + +Sarto, Andrea del +269 + +Savonarola +270 + +Sights 234 + +Spezeria +268 + +Straw-plaiting +277 + +Torre +del Gallo 248 + +Tribuna +238 + +—— di Galileo 247 + +Uffizi +gallery 237 + +Vallombrosa 278 + +Venus de Medici +238 + +Views +250 + +Fo–Fr +Foncaude baths +75 +Fontainebleau +3 +Fontana +183 +Fontenay abbey +19 +Forcalqueiret +129 +Fos 76 +Fourchambault 353 + +Freaux, Les 331 +Frejus 146 +Freney, Le 331 +Frontignan +75 + +salt 75 + +wine 75 + +G–Ge +Gallinaria +208 +Gannat 368 +Gap 340 +—— to +Barcelonnette 340 +—— to Grenoble 342 +Garabit, Pont de 374 +Gardanne 142, +80, 338 +—— to Carnoules 142 +Genoa 212, +279 + +Accademia 216 + +Acquasola 216 + +Albergo +dei Poveri 218 + +Cabs 213 + +Cafés 213 + +Campo-Santo +218 + +Cathedral +217 + +Corsos 213 + +English church +212 + +Hotels 212 + +Money-changers +213 + +Palazzo Adorno +216 + +—— Balbi 215 + +—— Doria 214 + +—— —— (Giorgio) 216 + +Genoa— + +Palazzo Ducal +217 + +390c + + +—— Durazzo 215 + +—— Municipicio 216 + +—— Rosso 216 + +—— Serra 216 + +—— Spinola 216 + +Post office +216 + +Royal Palace +214 + +S. +Ambrogio 217 + +S. +Annunziata 215 + +S. Maria in +Carignano 218 + +S. Matteo +217 + +S. Siro +215 + +Shops 212 + +Steamers +213 + +Telegraph office +213 + +Valdensian church +212 + +Via Circonvallazione +213 + +Via Milano +214 +Gerbier-de-Joncs 84 +Gevrey +23 + +Gi–Gu +Giandola +183 +Gien 351 +Giens 140 + +La Madrague +141 + +Le Chateau +141 + +Salt works +141 + +Semaphore 141 + +Gières 336 +Gilly 358 +Givors-Canal +81, 349 +Gleyzin glacier 337 +Golf Jouan +169 +Goncelin 336 +Gonfaron +131 +Gourdon +163 +Grand Som 324 +Grande-Chartreuse 323 +Grande Combe 375 +Grasse 160 +Grave, La 331 + +Grenoble 324 + +Bastile 325 + +Bayard 325 + +Coaches 325, 327 + +Gloves 327 + +Hotels 324 + +Library 326 + +Picture gallery 326 + +St. André 325 + +St. Laurent 327 + +to Barcelonnette 341 + +to Briançon 328 + +to Corps 333 + +to Gap 342 + +391 + + +to La Motte-les-Bains 327 + +to Sassenage 327 + +Gréoulx +167 +Grignan 49 +Grimaud +144 +Guerigny 354 +Guillestre 344 + +H +Hautecombe +Abbey 284 +Hermitage wine +43 +Hospice of Little St. Bernard 321 + +Hyères 133 + +Banks 133 + +Butterflies 139 + +Cabs 134 + +Caterpillars 139 + +Charles of Anjou +136 + +Château, Le +136 + +Climate +140 + +Clubs 134 + +Cork trees +139 + +Costebelle +136 + +Drives +134 + +English Pharmacy +133 + +Episcopal Chapel +133 + +Fenouillet, +Mont 137 + +Game 138 + +Hermitage 136 + +Hotels +133 + +Hyères— + +Jardin +d’Acclimatation 136 + +La Plage 140 + +Map 129 + +Massillon +135 + +Napoleon I. +136 + +Oiseaux Monts +138 + +Olive trees +138 + +Palm sticks +108 + +Palms 136 + +Paradis Mont +141 + +Pauline, La +142 + +Pipes +139 + +Potence 139 + +Productions +139 + +St. Louis +136 + +St. Paul +135 + +Stage +coaches 134 + +Temple Protestant +133 + +Town water +139 + +Trou des Fées +138 + +View from Le +Château 137 + +I +Iles de Lerins 157 +Iles d’Or +131 +Il Serraglio +230 + +391b + + +Issoire 372 + +coach to St. Nectaire 385 + +Isola Buona +201 +Istres 76 +Italian railway terms and time-tables 291, +200 + +J +Jaujac 95 +Jausiers 342 +Javie 339 +Jean-Sans-Peur +10, 20, 22 + +Joigny 14 +Jouques 79 +Joyeuse 96 + +La +La Balme +282 +La Barben 79 +La Bastide 375 +La Begude 93 +La Bollene +181 +La Chalp 306 +La Chambre 289 +La Charité 352 +La Ciotat +122 +La Crau +130 +La Garde 128, +130 +La Garde +Fraiseinet 144 +La Madrague +141 +La Monta 344 +La Mothe 94 +La Palisse 346, 368 +La Pauline +142 +La Roche 14 +La Salle 334 +La Salette 334 +La Sauvetat 88 +La Seyne +123 +La Valette +128 +La Voulte 82 + +Lachamp-Raphael 84 +Laffrey 333 + +Lagnieu 282 +Laigueglia +208 +Lake Allos 339 +—— +Annecy 286 +—— +Bourget 282 +—— +Paladru 323 +—— +Pavin 381 +—— Thau 76 +Lamartine 27 +Lambesc 80 +Langeac 375, 91 +Langogne 375, 95 +—— to Le Puy 88 +Lans-le-Bourg 290 +Lantosque +180 +Laqueuille 377 +—— to +Mont-Dore, 377 +—— to +Bourboule, 377 +Larche 342 + +391c + + +Largentière +96 +—— to Les Laumes 14 +Larzac 106 +Laudun 99 +Laurent-du-Pont 323 +Lauzet 331 +Lauzet, Le 341 +Lavandou +143 + +Le–Lu +Le Barroux 57 +Le Beage 84 +Le Bouchet +88 +Le Buis 57 +Le Creusot +25 +Le Monastier +85 +Le Pal 96 +Le Peage de Roussillon +43 +Le Pouzin 92 +Le Puy 86 +Le Teil 93 +Le Trayas +149 + +Leghorn +226 +Lemons 191, +194, 201 +Lerici 221 +Les Arcs +145 +Les Baux 67 +Les Etables 85 +Les Etages 330 +Les Laumes +19 +Les Marches 289, 338 +Les Piles 51 +Les Saintes Maries +72 +Les Salins +141 +Leschaux 287 + +Levant, Ile du +132 +Levens 180 +Limone 183 +L’Isle 64 +Livet 329 +Livron 46 +Loano 209 +Lorgues +145 +Lord Clarendon 356 +Lovagny 286 +Luc 144 +Lucca 227 + +Cabs 227 + +Cathedral +228 + +Hotels +227 + +Picture gallery +228 + +S. +Frediano 229 + +S. Michele +229 + +Luc-en-Diois +48 +Lunel 72 + +wine 73 +Lurs 339 +Luserna 305 +Luzy 25 + +Lyons + +392 + + +Lyons 29 + +Antiquaille Hospital +33 + +Aqueduct 34 + +Boats, Penny +31 + +Bourse 38 + +Cabs 30 + +Cathedral +34 + +Cheese 42 + +Condition des Soies +37 + +Distances 29 + +First sewing-machine +38 + +Flourvière 32 + +History 41 + +Hospice 39 + +Hôtel de Ville +37 + +—— Dieu 39 + +Hotels 29 + +Ile Barbe 42 + +Jacquard’s loom 38 + +Libraries 37, +38 + +Minerals +37 + +Mont Ceindre 41 + +—— d’Or 42 + +Musée +Archéologique 36 + +—— Guimet 40 + +—— Lapidaire 35 + +—— of Silk 38 + +Notre Dame +33 + +Lyons— + +Observatoire Gay 33 + +Palais de Justice +35 + +—— des Beaux Arts 35 + +Park 40 + +Picture gallery +36 + +Place des Terreaux +37 + +Post office 30 + +Préfecture 37 + +Railway station +30 + +St. Bruno 37 + +St. Irénée +34 + +St. Martin +d’Ainay 39 + +St. Nizier 35 + +St. Paul 33 + +St. Pierre 35 + +St. Polycarpe 37 + +Sights 32 + +Silk museum +38 + +Squares (Places) +32 + +Steamers +31 + +Tête d’Or 40 + +Theatres +31 + +to Nîmes +81 + +Trams 31 + +Weavers 40 + +Workhouse (Hospice) +39 + +Ma +Macon 26 + +wines 24 + +392b + + +Maisons-Alfort 2 +Malaucene 57 +Manosque 168, +66, 166, 339 +Marcols 84 +Marlioz 284 + +Marseilles +111, 80 + +Anglican chapel +112 + +Arc +de Triomphe 116 + +Biblothèque +117 + +Bishop Belsunce +116 + +Boats 112 + +Bonneveine +113 + +Bouillabaisse +113 + +Bourse +116 + +Cabs +111 + +Canal 77 + +Cathedral 115 + +Charities 119 + +Château +Borely 113 + +Commerce +120 + +Consigne +115 + +Corniche +113 + +Custom-house 112 + +École des Beaux Arts +117 + +History +120 + +Hôtel +de Ville 115 + +Hotels +111 + +If, island of +118 + +Industries 119 + +Marseilles— + +Joliette 115 + +Lazarus’s grave +119 + +Lycée +117 + +Marseillaise, +the 120 + +Martigues 118 + +Money-changers +112 + +Musée +d’Archéologie 113 + +Notre +Dame 117 + +Observatory +115 + +Palais de Justice +116 + +—— Longchamp 114 + +Port 115 + +Préfecture +116 + +Reservoir 115 + +St. +Victor 117 + +Sights +112 + +Steamboats 112 + +Temple 112 + +to Grenoble 338 + +to +Menton 112 + +Trams +113 + +Zoological garden +115 + +Martinet 341 +Mary Magdalene +124, 145 +Massa 223 +Maurin 341 +Mayres 94, 89 + +Me–Mons +Meana 291 +Meije 331 +Melun 2 +Menthon 287 + +392c + + +Menton 193 + +Annunciata 196 + +Banks +194 + +Bennet garden +197 + +Berceau 196 + +Cabs 194 + +Cape St. +Martin 195 + +Castellar +196 + +Castellon 199 + +Caves 195 + +Churches +194 + +Ciotti +197 + +Climate +199 + +Gorvio +197 + +Gourg-d’Ora +197 + +Grimaldi +197 + +Hanbury +grounds 197 + +Hotels +193 + +Mont Baudon +196 + +Monti 198 + +Mortola +197 + +St. Agnese +196 + +—— (village) 197 + +St. Louis +196 + +to Genoa 199 + +Meounes +129 +Meursault 24 +Meymac 386 +Meyrargues +80 +Meze 76 +Mezillac 84 +Mirabeau 338 +Mirabouc 306 +Miramas 76 +—— to Port Bouc 76 +Modane 290 +—— by road to Susa 290 + +Modena 313 + +Campanile 314 + +Cathedral 314 + +Library 314 + +Museo Lapidario 315 + +Picture gallery 314 + +Moirans 324 +Monaco 187 +Monastier, Le +85 +Mondoví 184, +304 +Monestier de Clermont 345 +Monètier de Briançon 332 +Monge, Gaspard +23 +Monistrol-d’Allier +91 +Mons cave 163 + +Mont–Mu +Mont Agel +192 +—— Aulas 105 +—— Auxois 19 +—— +Belledonne 336 +—— +Cenis 290 +—— —— Hospice 290 +—— Chenavari 93 +—— Coudon 128, 125 +—— Faron 127 + +393 + + +—— +Ferrand 331 +—— +Genèvre 333 +—— +Gergovia 372 +—— Grand Sambiu 79 +—— Gravenne 96 +—— +Meidassa 305, 344 +—— Mezenc 85 +—— +Pelvoux 345, 333, 344 +—— Pilat +348 +—— +Pirchiriano 291 +—— Protomagno 278 +—— +Sancy 381 +—— +Semnoz 287 +—— +Taillefer 329 +—— Ventoux 57, 56 +—— Vestide 96 +—— Viso 344, 305 +Montagnac 88 +Montallieu 281 +Montargis 351 +Montauroux +162 + +Montbard 18 +Montbrison 349 +Montchanin +25 +Mont-Dore-les-Bains 378 +—— to Issoire 385 +—— to St. Nectaire 385 +Mont Dauphin 343, 306, 307 +—— to Saluzzo 344 +Monte +Carlo 189, 192 +Monte Grosso +210 +Montélimart +48 +Montereau 10 +Montgeron 2 +Mont-Majour +71 +Montmélian +167, 289, 338 + +Montpellier +73 + +École de +Médecine 74 + +Musée Fabre +74 + +to Palavas 75 + +wine 75 +Montpezat 96 +Montrieux +129 +Moret 10 +Mornas 46 +Moulins 355 +——, Les 190 +Moustiers Ste. Marie 167 +Moutiers on Doron 320 +Mure, La 334, 342 +Murols 382 + +N–Ne +Napoleon I. 64 +Napoule +156 +Narce 89, 94 +Nervi 219 + +Neussargues 374 +Nevers 353 +Neyrac +94 + +Nice +Nice 169 + +Banks 172 + +Booksellers +172 + +Cabs 173 + +Cafés 172 + +Carabacél 177 + +Caterina +Segurana 176 + +Cathedral 176 + +Château, Le +175 + +Churches +173 + +Cimiés 177 + +Climate +174 + +Clubs 172 + +Column 177 + +Confectioneries 173 + +Contes 174 + +Crois-de-Marbre 177 + +Diligences +173 + +Drives +178 + +Falicon 180 + +Garibaldi 176 + +Hotels and +Pensions 170 + +House agents +172 + +Jardin Public +178 + +Nice— + +Luther 176 + +Massena +177 + +Memorial +chapel 176 + +393b + + +Money-changers +172 + +Mont Chauve +179 + +Monte Carlo +178 + +Museum 178 + +Observatory +180 + +Paganini 176 + +Palais de Lascaris +176 + +Pharmacies +172 + +Post office +172 + +Promenade +175 + +Protestant +churches 173 + +Public library +172 + +St. André +179 + +St. Augustin +176 + +St. Jean 178 + +St. Pons 179 + +Val Obscur +178 + +Vallon des +Fleurs 179 + +Vallons 174 + +Villa Clery +179 + +Villefranche +184, 178 + +Nicholas–Ny +Nicholas V. +221 +Nieigles 95 +Nîmes 101, 376 +—— to Vigan 105 +Nolay 24 +Noli 209 + +Novi 279 +Nuits 23 +Nuits-sous-Ravieres 18 +Nyons 50 +—— to Serres 51 + +O +393c + + +Olbon 83 +Olliergues 91 +Ollioules +123 +Olive tree +138 +Orange 51 +—— Prince of 52 + +Orcival 380 +Orgon 66 +Ortolans 56 +Ospedaletti +202, 201 +Oulx 291, 333 +Ours-Mons 88 + +P–Pi +Palavas 75 +Paradisino +278 +Paray-le-Monial 27 +Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne +346 +—— to Marseilles 1 +—— Directions 1 +—— to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes +351 +—— to Marseilles by Lyons 1 +—— to Turin by Aix-les-Bains 281 +—— to Turin by Grenoble 322 +Parma 310 +Parmesan cheese 313 +Pas-des-Lanciers 376, 80, 88 + +Pegli 211 +Pelago 278 +Pelussin 81 +Perinaldo +201 +Perosa 307 +—— to Cesanne 307 +—— to Mont-Dauphin 307 +Pertuis 338, 77 +Petite +Afrique 186 +Petrarch +65 + +Peyerbelle 95, +89 +Peyraud 81 +Peyrolles 79 +Piacenza 309 +Pian Fiorenza 308 +—— +del Ré 308 +Pierre-Chatel 334 +Pierrefeu +130 +Pietrasanta +223 +Pigna 201 +Pinerolo 306 + +Pisa 223 + +Baptistery +225 + +Cabs 224 + +Campo Santo +225 + +Cathedral +224 + +Hotels 223 + +Leaning +Tower 225 + +394 + + +Post office +224 + +Santa Maria +226 + +University +226 + +Pistoja +231 + +Po–Pu +Polignac 89 +Pomaretto 307 +Pomponiana +143 +Pontaix 47 +Pontassieve +277 + +Pont Avignon +99 +—— d’Arc 97 +—— de-la-Beaune 95 +—— du-Gard 104 +—— +Ecofier 329 +—— +Gibaud 377 +—— St. Esprit 98 + +Pontcharra 337 +Pontigny 16 +Pontius Pilate +43 +Porquerolles +131 + +Port Bouc 76 +—— —— to Arles 76 +—— Cros 132 +—— Grau du Roi 73 +—— Man 132 +—— St. Louis 72 + +Porto +Maurizio 207 +—— Oneglia 208 +—— Venere 220 +Portofino +220 +Pougues-les-Eaux 352 +Pouilly-sur-Loire 352 +Pourcheyrolles +95 +Pouzin 92 +Pra 211 +Pradelles 89, +95 +Prades (Ardèche) +95 +Prato 232 +Praz 289 +Pré-St Didier 321 +Prices +109 +Privas 92 +Puget, Pierre +80 +Puget-Theniers 182 +Puligny 24 +Puy-de-Dome 372 + +Q +Queyras +344 + +Quincy abbey 18 + +R +Randan 366, +368 +Rapallo +220 +Reggio Emilia 313 +Remoulins 99 +Resin baths +57, 48 +Rians 79 +Riez 166, +168 +Riom 369 +Riouperoux 329 +Rioutort 96 + +394b + + +Ris 367 +Rives 323 + +Riviera, the 107 + +Climate +108 + +Cost of +living 109 + +road to 1 + +Vegetation +108 + +Roanne 346, 348 +Robilante +183 +Rocavignon +160 + +Roche Cevins 320 +Rochemaure +92 +Rocher +Blanc 164 +—— Noir 165 +Rognac 77, 376 +—— to Aix-en-Provence 77 +—— to Roquefavour 77 +Romaneche 28 +Roquebillère +181 +Roquebrune +192 +Roquefavour +aqueduct 77 +Roquemaure +99 +Roquotaillado +tunnel 162 +Rosans 51 +Roumoulles +168 +Rousseau, J. J. 288, 287 +Rouvray 16 +Royat 376 +Ruoms 96 +Ruota 201 + +S–St. +N +Saillans 47 +Sail-les-Bains 348 +Saincaize 355 +St. Agnan 358 +St. Agnes +131 +St. Alban 348 +St. Ambroix 96 +St. André-le-Gaz 322 +—— to Chambery 322 +St. Auban 339, 166 +St. Baume (Agay) +147 +—— (Bouches du Rhône) 144 +St. Bernard 27, +287 +St. Cannat 79 +St. Cesaire +162 +St. Chamas 76, +376 +St. Christophe 330 +St. Cyre +123 +St. Didier +57 +St. Edmund 17 +St. Etienne 346, 349 + +manufactories of muskets, pistols, swords, and +ribbons 346, 347 +St. Eulalie +96 +St. Florentin +16 +—— to Chablis 16 + +St. Galmier 346, 348 + +394c + + +St. +Georges-d’Aurac 91, 374 +St. Germain 321 +St. +Germain-au-Mont d’Or 29 +St. Germain-des-Fossés 358 +St. Gilles +72 +St. Honorat +158 +St. Honoré baths 354 +St. Honoré-les-Bains +25, 354 +St. Jean +185 +St. Jean du Bruel +106 +St. Julien-du-Sault +13 +St. Louis (king) +73 +St. Marcel caves +98 +St. Marcellin 324 +—— +to Pont-en-Royan, 324 +St. Marguerite +157 +St. Mart 377 +St. Martin 98 +St. +Martin-Lantosque 181 +St. Maurice 2, +50 +St. Maximin +143 +St. May 51 +St. Menet +122 +St. Michael (Mont Cenis) 289 +St. Nazaire +123 +St. Nectaire 385 + +St. +P–San +St. Pardoux 357 +St. Paul-Trois-Château +50 +St. Péray 82 + +wine 82 +St. Pêre 15 +St. Pierre-d’Albigny 289 +—— to Annecy 289 +—— to Courmayeur 320 +St. Pierre-d’Argenson +48 +St. Pierreville +83 +St. Pilon +144 +St. Pons 341 +St. Priest 322 +St. Privat 91 +St. Rambert-d’Albon +43 + +St. Raphael +147 +St. Remi-en-Rollat 368 +St. Remy 67 +St. Sauveur +83 +St. Seine 19 +St. Thomé 97 +St. Tropez +145 +St. Vallier +165, 43 +St. Yorre 366 + +Salon 66 +Saluzzo 307, 344 +—— to +Cuneo 307 +—— to Mont Dauphin 308 +—— to +Paesana 308 +—— to +Sampeyre 308, 344 + +395 + + +Sampierdarena +212 +San Ambrogio (Mt. Cenis) 291 +San Chiaffredo 308 +San Dalmazzo 308 +San Giuliano +227 + +San Remo +203 + +Cabs +203 + +Ceriana 204 + +Climate +204 + +Hotels +203 + +Madonna +205 + +Monte Bignone +205 + +Poggio 204 + +St. Romolo +205 + +—— to Taggia 207 + +San Stefano +207 +San Terenzo +221 +Sancerre 352 + +Santa +Margherita 220 + +Saou–Su +Saou 46 +Sarzana +221 +Sassenage 327 +Sauclières 105 +Saugues 91 +Saulieu 16 +Saut-du-Loup 373 +Savigny 24 +Savines 343 +Savona 209 +Sea +bathing 110 +Séchilienne 329 +Seez 321 +Seine, source of +19 +Semur 16 +Senez 166 +Sens 10 +Sept Laux 337 +Sermizelles +15 +Serres 340, 51 +Serrières 81 + +Sestri Levante +220 +—— Ponente 212 +Settignano +277 +Seyne-les-Alpes 339 + +Shelley 221, +223 +Sisteron 339 +Six-Fours +123 +Solliès-Pont +142, 129 +Solliès-Ville +129, 142 +Sorgues 54 +Sospello +182 +Source of the +Loire 84 +Souvigny 356 +Spezia 220 +Steam trams 304 +Sue du Pal 96 +Susa 291 +Suze-le-Rousse +50 + +T–Turbie + +395b + + +Taggia 207, 206 +Tain 43 +Talloires 286 +Tanlay 17 +Tarascon 66, +376 + +Martha’s grave 67 +Taulignan 49 +Tavernettes, Les 290 +Teil 93 +Tenay 282 +Tenda 183 +Termignon 290 + +Theoule +155 +Thezièrs 99 +Thiers 367, 350 +Thomery 10 +Thueyts 94 +Thuile 321 +Tonnerre 17 +Torre-Péllice 305 +—— to Mont Dauphin 306 + +Toulon 124 + +Arsenal +125 + +Bagne 125 + +Balaguier 127 + +Belle-Poule +124 + +Cap Brun 128 + +Cathedral +126 + +Dardenne 128 + +Toulon— + +Diligences +129 + +Hotels 124 + +Le Pradet 128 + +Le Tamaris +127 + +Mont Faron +127 + +Omnibuses +128, 124 + +Port, the +124 + +Puget’s house +126 + +Rue Lafayette +126 + +St. François de Paule +126 + +St. Mandrier +127 + +St. Marguerite +128 + +Smith, Sir Sydney +126 + +Temple Protestant +124 + +Town Hall +126 + +Tour-du-Pin 322 +Tournon 82 +Tournus 26 +Trayas, Le +148 +Trets 144 +Trévoux 29 +Trinité-Victor 182 +Troy weight +13 +Troyes 11 +Truffles 55 +Tulle 386 +Turbie, La +192, 191 + +Turin + +395c + + +Turin 292 + +Accademia Albertina 300 + +Armoury 297 + +Biblioteca del Ré 297 + +Booksellers 293 + +Cabs 292 + +Cafés 293 + +Castello, the 299 + +Cathedral 298 + +Cavour house 294 + +—— +monument 301 + +Cemetery 302 + +Gran Madre di Dio 300 + +Gressini 303 + +Hotels 292 + +King’s palace 298 + +La Consolata 301 + +Medagliere del Ré 297 + +Money-changers 293 + +Monuments 301, 293 + +Museo Civico 299 + +Museum of antiquities and picture +gallery 294 + +Museum of zoology and mineralogy +297 + +Turin— + +Palazzo Carignano 297 + +—— +dell’ Accademia delle Scienze 294 + +—— di Citta +301 + +Piazza Carlo Felice 293 + +—— dello +Statuto 293 + +—— San +Carlo 293 + +—— Vitt. Emanuele 300 + +Post and telegraph offices 293 + +Railway stations 293 + +Superga, La 302 + +Teatro Regio 298 + +Theatres 293 + +to Cuneo 153 + +to Florence 309 + +to Genoa +279 + +to Savona +183 + +Trams 292 + +University 300 + +Via di Po 300 + +Wines 303 + +U +Ubaye +341 +Uriage baths 336 + +Usclades 96 +Uzès 99 + +V–Ve +Vaison 53 +Val Louise 333, 345 +Valbonne 98 + +396 + + +Valdieri 181, +182 +Valence 44 +—— coaches from 45 +Vallauris +154 +Valleraugue +105 +Vallombrosa +278 +Vallon 97 +Valréas 49 +Vals 93 +Var 169 +Varazze +210 +Varennes 26 +Varzy 354 + +Vassivières 381 +Vaucluse 64 +Vaugris 43 +Velars 20 +Venanson +181 +Vence 163 +Vence-Cagnes +169 +Vencigliato +277 +Venosc 330 +Ventimiglia +200 +Vernet 91 +—— (Digne) 339 + +396b + + +Verrey 19 +Vesseaux 93 +Veynes 340 +Vezelay 15 + +Vi–Vo +Viareggio +223 +Vichy 359 +Vienne 42 +Vif 345 +Vigan 105 +—— to Millau 105 +Villa +Pallavicini 211 +Villard-d’Arène 331 +Villefort 375 +—— to Bagnol-les-Bains 375 +Villefranche +184 +Villefranche-sur-Saône 29 +Villeperdrix 51 +Ville-la-Vieille 344 +Villeneuve-les-Avignon 63 + +Hospital 63 + +Marchioness de Ganges +63 +Villeneuve-St. George 2 + +396c + + +Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 13 + +Vinadio 183, +342 +Virieu 322 +Virieu-le-Grand 282 +Viviers 97 +Vizille 345, 328, 333 +Voghera 309 +Voiron 323 + +coach to the Grande Chartreuse 323 +Voltri 211 +Volvic 377, 369 +Volx 339 +Voreppe 324 + +coach to the Grande Chartreuse 324 +Vougeot 23 +Voulte, La +82 +Voute-Chilhac +91 + +W +Waldenses, or Vaudois 305 +Waldensian valleys 304 + +Warrens, Mme. 286, 288 +Wellington 2 + + + + +THE END. + + + + +_Printed by R. & R. Clark, +Edinburgh._ + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH OF FRANCE—EAST HALF *** + +***** This file should be named 24787-0.txt or 24787-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/7/8/24787/ + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, +and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive +specific permission. 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