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diff --git a/24755.txt b/24755.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f7826f0 --- /dev/null +++ b/24755.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8923 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Captain Cook, by W.H.G. Kingston + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Captain Cook + His Life, Voyages, and Discoveries + +Author: W.H.G. Kingston + +Release Date: March 5, 2008 [EBook #24755] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAPTAIN COOK *** + + + + +Produced by Nick Hodson of London, England + + + + +Captain Cook, his Life, Voyages and Discoveries, by W.H.G. Kingston. + +________________________________________________________________________ +This book is not a series of fictitious adventures of the great Captain +Cook, the eighteenth century navigator and explorer, but a +straightforward statement of his life and achievements. It is therefore +more of a biography than an adventure book for boys. However, the man +was so great that his biography can indeed be read as a well-written +book of adventures. + +________________________________________________________________________ +CAPTAIN COOK, HIS LIFE, VOYAGES AND DISCOVERIES, BY W.H.G. KINGSTON. + + + +CHAPTER ONE. + +CAPTAIN COOK--HIS LIFE, VOYAGES, AND DISCOVERIES. + +EARLY TRAINING. + +Among all those Englishmen who, from a humble origin, have risen to an +honourable position, Captain James Cook is especially worthy of record. +His parents were of the peasant class--his father having commenced life +as a farm-labourer, and his mother being a cottager's daughter. +Probably, however, they were both superior to others of the same +station, as the husband, in process of time, became farm-bailiff to his +employer--a Mr Thomas Skottowe. This was about the year 1730, and the +farm of which he had the management was called Airy-Holme, near Ayton, +in Yorkshire. Not far from this place, at the village of Marton, near +Stockton-upon-Tees; his son James was born, on October 27, 1728. James +was one of nine children, all of whom he survived, with the exception of +a sister who married a fisherman at Redcar. + +The father of this family spent the latter years of his life with his +daughter at Redcar, and was supposed to have been about eighty-five +years old at the time of his death; so that he must have had the +satisfaction of seeing his son rising in his profession, though probably +he little thought of that son as establishing a fame which would be +handed down in history. + +James Cook does not appear to have enjoyed any peculiar educational +advantages, but owed his subsequent advancement chiefly to his own +intelligence, perseverance, and diligence. He first went to a village +school, and was afterwards sent, at the expense of Mr Skottowe, to an +ordinary commercial school, kept by a Mr Pullen. He continued there +four years, and was then apprenticed to Mr William Sanderson, a grocer +and haberdasher at the fishing town of Straiths, ten miles from Whitby. +It may be supposed that the occupation in which he was engaged was not +suited to his taste. The sea was constantly before his eyes, and the +desire to seek his fortune on it sprang up within him, and grew stronger +and stronger, till in about a year after he went to Straiths he obtained +a release from his engagement with Mr Sanderson, and apprenticed +himself to Messrs. Walker and Company, shipowners of Whitby. He went to +sea for the first time when he was about eighteen, on board one of their +vessels--the Truelove collier, [Note 1] of four hundred and fifty tons +burden, trading between Newcastle and London. The lad soon showed that +he was well fitted for his new profession, and in 1748, not two years +after he had commenced it, we find him especially directed to assist in +fitting for sea the Three Brothers, a new ship of six hundred tons. +While he served on board this ship she was hired by Government as a +transport; and on her being paid off she was employed in the Norway +trade. + +After making several voyages in the Three Brothers up the Baltic, young +Cook was promoted to the rank of mate on board the Friendship. He had +by this time gained the goodwill of his employers; and had made several +other friends on shore, who, before long, were enabled to render him +essential service. He was now known as a thorough seamen; indeed, from +the moment he went on board ship, he had steadily applied his mind to +acquiring a knowledge of his profession. Still he served on as mate of +the Friendship till the breaking out of the war between England and +France in 1756, when he made up his mind to push his fortunes in the +Royal Navy. He knew that at all events there was a great probability of +his being pressed into the service, and he had good reason to hope that +he might be placed ere long on the quarter-deck, since many young men at +that time had been who went to sea, as he had done, before the mast. He +accordingly volunteered, and entered as an able seaman on board the +Eagle, of sixty guns, then commanded by Captain Hamer, but shortly +afterwards by Captain Palliser, who became the well-known Sir Hugh +Palliser--Cook's warm and constant friend. + +As soon as the young sailor's Yorkshire friends heard that he had +entered on board a man-of-war, they exerted themselves on his behalf, +and a letter of introduction was procured from Mr Osbaldeston, Member +for the county, to his captain, who, having already remarked the +intelligence and assiduity Cook exhibited in all his professional +duties, was the more ready to give him a helping hand. + +Considering how best he could assist the young man, who had served too +short a time in the Navy to obtain a commission, Captain Palliser +advised that a master's warrant should be procured for him--this being a +position for which, both from age and experience, he was well fitted. +[Note 2.] This was done; and on May 10, 1759, James Cook was appointed +to the Grampus, sloop of war, and was now in a fair way of gaining the +object of his ambition. He had, however, to undergo a trial of patience +at the first outset of his career; for the former master returning, his +appointment was cancelled. His friends were not idle, and four days +after this he was made master of the Garland; but on going to join her +he found that she had already sailed for her destination. On the +following day, May 15, he was appointed to the Mercury, on the point of +sailing for the North American station to join the fleet under Sir +Charles Saunders, which, in conjunction with the army under General +Wolfe, was engaged in the siege of Quebec. The termination of that +contest gained for Great Britain one of her finest provinces. To this +success Cook contributed in his particular department; and it is +remarkable that he should have been in various ways instrumental in +giving to his country the three finest provinces she possesses--Canada, +the Australian settlements, and New Zealand. + +James Cook was now about thirty-two years of age, and although the +position in life he had filled for the previous twelve years was not one +(especially in those days) conducive to refinement of manners, he +appears from the first to have conducted himself with propriety and +credit. He had already shown his superiority as a seaman. He was now +to exhibit his talents in the more scientific part of his profession, in +which officers in the Navy were in those days greatly deficient. + +It was necessary to take the soundings in the channel of the Saint +Lawrence, between the Isle of Orleans and the north shore, directly in +front of the French fortified camp of Montmorency and Beauport, in order +to enable the admiral to place his ships so as to oppose the enemy's +batteries, and to cover the projected landing of the British army under +Wolfe, and a general attack on their camp. Captain Palliser, who now +commanded the Shrewsbury, a seventy-four gun ship, recommended Cook for +this difficult and dangerous service. He was engaged on it for many +consecutive nights, it being a work which could not be performed in the +daytime. At length his proceedings were discovered by the French, who +laid a plan to catch him. They concealed in a wood near the water a +number of Indians with their canoes. As the Mercury's barge, in which +Cook was making the survey, passed, the canoes darted out on him and +gave chase. His only chance of escape was to run for it. He pushed for +the Isle of Orleans with a whole host of yelling savages paddling at +full speed after him. On they came, every moment gaining on his boat. +The English hospital, where there was a guard, was before him; towards +this he steered, the bows of the Indian canoes almost touching the +barge's stern; a few strokes more, and the Indians would have grappled +him. He sprang from his seat over the bow of his boat, followed by his +crew, just as the enemy leaped in overwhelming numbers over the +quarters. They carried off the barge in triumph, but Cook and his +comrades escaped; and he succeeded, in spite of all difficulties, in +furnishing the admiral with a correct and complete draft of the channel +and soundings. This was the more extraordinary, as Sir Hugh Palliser +afterwards expressed his belief that before this time Cook had scarcely +ever used a pencil, and knew nothing of drawing; and it is one of many +proofs that the ardent seaman not only threw his soul into the duties of +his profession, but that this determination enabled him quickly to +master every subject to which he applied his mind. + +While his ship remained in the Saint Lawrence, Cook, at the desire of +the admiral, made an accurate survey of the more difficult parts of that +river below Quebec. So complete and perfect was the chart which he +executed, and which, with his sailing directions, was afterwards +published, that until a late period no other was thought necessary. So +little were the English acquainted with the navigation of the river +before this, that when, early in the season, the fleet under +Rear-Admiral Darell arrived at its mouth, some difficulty was expected +in getting up it. Fortunately, when off the island of Caudec, the +inhabitants, mistaking the English ships for their own fleet, sent off +their best pilots. These were of course detained, and proved of great +use in taking the English fleet up the river. + +After the conquest of Canada had been accomplished, Admiral Saunders +despatched the larger ships to England, following himself in the +Somerset, and leaving the command of the fleet in North America to +Captain Lord Colvill, who had his commodore's flag flying on board the +Northumberland. To this ship Cook was appointed as master, by warrant +from his lordship, on September 22, 1739. The squadron wintered at +Halifax. Cook employed the leisure which the winter afforded him in +acquiring that knowledge which especially fitted him for the service in +which he was thereafter to be engaged. At Halifax he first read Euclid, +and began to study astronomy and other branches of science, in which, +considering the few books to which he had access, and the want of +assistance from others, he made wonderful progress. In the following +year, 1760, a lieutenant's commission was presented to him as a reward +for his services. + +In 1762 the Northumberland was engaged in the recapture of Newfoundland. +The activity which Cook displayed in surveying its harbour and heights +attracted the attention of Captain Graves, the acting governor, and +commander of the Antelope. Captain Graves, on becoming farther +acquainted with Cook, formed a high opinion of his abilities, while he +admired the energy and perseverance he exhibited in surveying the +neighbouring coasts and harbours. + +At the end of the year Cook went to England, and on December 21 he +married, at Barking, in Essex, Miss Elizabeth Batts, a young lady of +respectable family, to whom he had some time before been engaged. As +she died in 1835, at the age of ninety-three, she must at the time of +her marriage have been twenty years old. Her husband was tenderly +attached to her, but his married life, like that of most sailors, had +long and frequent interruptions. She bore him six children, three of +whom died in their infancy. + +Soon after Cook's marriage, peace with France and Spain was concluded. +On this Captain Graves was again appointed Governor of Newfoundland. As +the island was of great importance to England, he obtained from the +Government, with some difficulty, an establishment for the survey of its +coasts, and offered the direction of it to Cook, who, notwithstanding +his recent marriage, accepted the offer. In the following year, 1764, +Sir Hugh Palliser being appointed Governor of Newfoundland and Labrador, +Cook was made Marine Surveyor of the Province, the Grenville schooner +being placed under his command. The charts made by Cook enlightened the +Government as to the value of Newfoundland, and induced them, when +drawing up articles of peace with France, to insist on arrangements +which secured to Great Britain the advantages which its coasts afford. +Not content, however, with merely surveying the shore, Cook penetrated +into the interior of the country, and discovered several lakes hitherto +unknown. + +On August 5 an eclipse of the sun occurred, an observation of which was +taken by Cook from one of the Burgeo Islands, near the south-west end of +Newfoundland. The paper that he wrote on it was published in the +Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society. This fact alone proves +that he must already have become a good mathematician and astronomer. +The last time he went to Newfoundland as marine surveyor was in 1767. + +We have now briefly traced the career of James Cook from his childhood +to the period when he had established his character as an able seaman, a +scientific navigator, and a good officer. He was soon to have an +opportunity of proving to his country and to the world in general the +very high degree in which he possessed these qualities, and which +enabled him to accomplish an undertaking which has proved of inestimable +benefit to millions of the human race. By his means, discovery was made +of fertile lands of vast extent, previously trodden only by the feet of +wandering savages; and numberless tribes, sunk in the grossest idolatry +and human degradation, were made known to the Christian world. And +Christians, roused at length to a sense of their responsibility, began +to devise means, under the blessing of God, for teaching these, their +ignorant brethren of the human family, the knowledge of the only true +God, and the way of eternal life. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. In the biographies of Cook the name of the vessel in which he +first went to sea is given as the Freelove--evidently a misprint. I +have never known a vessel of that name, whereas the Truelove is a +favourite name. + +Note 2. Masters in the Navy were in those days appointed by warrant, +and were very generally taken direct from the merchant service without +going through any preparatory grade, as at present. They are now also +commissioned officers, and on retiring receive commanders' rank. + + + +CHAPTER TWO. + +FIRST VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. AUGUST 1768 TO JULY 1771. + +In the year 1763, on the restoration of peace, the desire to explore +unknown seas and to discover new countries revived among the English, +and was warmly encouraged by King George the Third. Two expeditions +were at once fitted out to circumnavigate the globe--one under Lord +Byron, and the other under Captains Wallis and Carteret; the former +commanding the Dolphin, in which Lord Byron had just returned, the +latter the Swallow. As, however, Captains Wallis and Carteret +accidentally parted company at an early period of their voyage, and kept +different routes, they are generally considered as having led two +separate expeditions. + +Before the return of these ships, another expedition was determined on, +the immediate object of which was to observe a transit of Venus which it +had been calculated by astronomers would occur in 1769. It was believed +that one of the Marquesas, or one of the Friendly Islands, called, by +Tasman, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Middleburg, would be an advantageous +spot for making the proposed observation. + +The King was memorialised by the Royal Society, and through his +Majesty's intervention the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty +undertook to furnish a suitable vessel and crew to convey the +astronomers and other scientific persons who might be selected to carry +out the proposed objects. The Royal Society had fixed on Mr Alexander +Dalrymple to take the direction of the expedition; but as he was not in +the Royal Navy, Sir Edward Hawke, then at the head of the Admiralty, +would not hear of his being appointed. Mr Dalrymple, on the other +hand, would not consent to go unless he received a brevet commission as +captain. It was necessary, therefore, to find some one else, and Mr +Stephens, the Secretary of the Admiralty, a warm supporter of the +expedition, mentioned Cook to the Board, and suggested that Sir Hugh +Palliser's opinion should be asked respecting him. This, as may be +supposed, was in every respect favourable; and consequently Lieutenant +Cook was directed to hold himself in readiness to take command of the +proposed expedition. Sir Hugh Palliser was requested to select a fit +ship for the purpose, and with Cook's assistance he fixed on a barque of +three hundred and seventy tons, to which the name of the Endeavour was +given. She mounted ten carriage and ten swivel guns; her crew, besides +the commander, consisted of eighty-four persons, and she was provisioned +for eighteen months. + +The well-known Sir Joseph Banks, then Mr Banks, one of the chief +promoters of the expedition, volunteered to accompany it. On leaving +Oxford he had visited the coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, to obtain +information on scientific subjects. Although he suffered no small +amount of hardship on that occasion, he returned home with unabated zeal +in the cause he had adopted, and ready again to leave all the advantages +which his position afforded him, for the discomfort and dangers of a +long voyage in unknown seas. Mr Banks was, however, more than a +philosopher--he was a large-hearted philanthropist, and he was animated +with the hope of diffusing some of the advantages of civilisation and +Christianity among the people who might be discovered. He engaged, as +naturalist to the expedition, the services of Dr Solander, a Swede by +birth, educated under Linnaeus, from whom he had brought letters of +introduction to England. Mr Banks also, at his own charge, took out a +secretary and two artists--one to make drawings from subjects of natural +history, the other to take sketches of scenery and the portraits of the +natives who might be met with. He had likewise four personal +attendants, two of whom were negroes. + +The Government, on its part, appointed Mr Charles Green, who had long +been assistant to Dr Bradley at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich, to +assist Lieutenant Cook in the astronomical department of the expedition; +and in every respect the persons engaged in this celebrated expedition +were well fitted to attain the objects contemplated. + +While these preparations were going forward, Captain Wallis returned +from his voyage round the world. He expressed his opinion that a +harbour in an island he had discovered, and called King George's Island, +since well-known as Otaheite or Tahiti, was a fit spot for observing the +transit of Venus. That island was accordingly to be the first +destination of the Endeavour. After having accomplished the primary +object of the voyage, the commander was directed to proceed in making +discoveries through the wide extent of the Great Southern Ocean. + +Lieutenant Cook received his commission as commander of the Endeavour +(which was then in the basin in Deptford Yard) on May 25, 1768. On the +27th he went on board, and immediately began fitting her for sea. The +work in dockyards was not executed so rapidly in those days as it is +now, and it was upwards of two months before the vessel was ready. On +July 30 she dropped down the river; but it was not till August 15 that +she reached Plymouth. On Friday, August 26, the wind becoming fair, the +Endeavour finally put to sea, and commenced the first of one of the most +memorable series of voyages which have ever been performed by a single +vessel. Next to Commander Cook in authority in the Endeavour were her +two lieutenants--Zachary Hicks and John Gore; her senior mate was +Charles Clerke, who accompanied Cook in each of his subsequent voyages, +and succeeded to the command of the third expedition on the death of his +beloved captain. He had previously served as midshipman under Lord +Byron in his first voyage round the world. + +A long sea voyage is almost always felt to be extremely tedious and dull +to landsmen; but every change in the atmosphere, the varied appearance +presented by the sea, the numberless creatures found in it, the birds +which hovered about the ship or pitched on the rigging, all afforded +matter of interest to the enlightened persons on board the Endeavour. + +At Madeira the naturalists of the expedition set to work collecting +specimens. The social condition of the people has probably altered +little since those days, though the monasteries, which then existed, +have long since been abolished. The nuns of the convent of Santa Clara +especially amused Mr Banks and his companions by the simplicity of the +questions they put on hearing that they were philosophers. Among +others, they requested them to ascertain by their art whether a spring +of pure water existed within the walls of their convent, and also when +the next thunderstorm would occur. + +On leaving Madeira the course was shaped for Rio de Janeiro, which was +reached on November 13. The voyagers were not treated by the viceroy +with the courtesy which might have been expected. The object of the +voyage was utterly beyond the comprehension of that functionary, who +could form no other conception of the matter than that it had something +to do with the passing of the North Star through the South Pole. This +ignorance and suspicion caused the voyagers a great deal of annoyance +during the whole of their stay; though the viceroy could not refuse them +water and other necessaries. When, at length, these were procured, and +the Endeavour was going out of the harbour, she was fired at from the +forts of Santa Cruz. Cook immediately sent on shore to demand the cause +of this act. The excuse offered by the commandant of the port was that +he had received no orders from the viceroy to allow the ship to pass. +It appeared that the letter had been written, but that through neglect +it had not been forwarded. Through the whole of the contest with the +viceroy, Cook behaved with equal spirit and discretion. Among the +remarks which Cook makes in his journal on Brazil, is one on the fearful +expense of life at which the royal gold mines in that country were +worked. No less than forty thousand negroes were annually imported to +labour in the royal mines. In the year 1766, through an epidemic, the +number required falling short, twenty thousand more were drafted from +the town of Rio. A very similar account may be given of the silver and +other mines on the other side of the continent; while the treacherous +system which was organised to supply the demand for labour from among +the inhabitants of the Pacific Islands must be looked on with even +greater horror and indignation than that which existed for supplying +Brazil with slave labour. So strictly were the Brazilian gold mines +guarded, that no stranger was allowed to visit them, and any person +found on the roads leading to them was immediately hanged by the guards +stationed there. Altogether Cook formed a very unfavourable opinion of +the inhabitants of Brazil, though few parts of the tropics surpass it in +beauty of climate, fertility of soil, and power of production. + +After a stay of three weeks in the harbour of Rio, the Endeavour put to +sea on December 7, and stood down the coast of South America. On +approaching the latitudes of the Falkland Islands, the crew, complaining +of cold, received what was called a Magellanic jacket, and a pair of +trousers made of a thick woollen stuff called Fearnought. Instead of +going through the Straits of Magellan, as was the custom in those times, +the Endeavour was steered from the Strait of Le Maire between Helen +Island and Tierra del Fuego. On her anchoring in the Bay of Good +Success, several of the party went on shore. Thirty or forty Indians +soon made their appearance, but, distrustful of the strangers, quickly +retreated to a distance. On this, Mr Banks and Dr Solander advanced, +when two of the Indians approached them and sat down. As the Englishmen +drew near, the savages rose and each threw away from him a stick which +he had in his hand, returning immediately to their companions and making +signs to the white men to follow. This they did, and friendly relations +were at once established between the two parties. Three of them were +induced to go on board, and were chiefly remarkable for the entire want +of interest with which they regarded all the novelties by which they +were surrounded. One of them, who was conjectured to be a priest, did +little else than shout all the time he was on board. He was supposed, +by this, to be engaged in the performance of some heathenish +incantation. When these three men were landed, their fellow-savages +showed great eagerness to learn what they had seen in the strange big +canoe, as they would probably have termed the English ship. + +On December 16, Mr Banks and Dr Solander, with Mr Green, Mr +Monkhouse the surgeon, and several attendants, landed, with the +intention of ascending a mountain seen in the distance, and penetrating +as far as they could into the country. The atmosphere when they set out +was like that of a warm spring day in England. It being the middle of +summer, the day was one of the longest in the year. Nothing could have +been more favourable for their expedition. They had gone through a +wood, and were about to pass over what at a distance they had taken to +be a plain, but which proved to be a swamp covered thickly with tangled +bushes three feet high. Still they pushed across it, and reached the +mountain, on which Mr Banks and Dr Solander commenced collecting +specimens. Most of the party were greatly fatigued, and Mr Buchan, the +draughtsman, was seized with a fit. He was therefore left with some of +the party while the rest went forward. The weather, however, changed-- +the cold became intense, and snow fell very thickly. Dr Solander had +warned his companions not to give way to the sensation of sleepiness +which intense cold produces, yet he was one of the first to propose to +lie down and rest. Mr Banks, however, not without the greatest +difficulty, urged him on, but the two black servants lay down and were +frozen to death, and a seaman who remained with them nearly shared the +same fate. The survivors collected together at night, but their +provisions were exhausted; one or two were very ill, and they were a +long day's journey from the ship. There appeared, indeed, a great +probability that the chief objects of the voyage would be frustrated by +the death of the principal scientific persons engaged in it. After a +night of great anxiety, a vulture they had shot being their only food, +the snow partially cleared off, and they made their way to the beach, +which was not so far distant as they had supposed. + +After this disastrous adventure the party again went on shore, and found +a tribe of savages, numbering fifty persons, living in a collection of +conical huts, rudely formed of boughs, and open on the lee side. The +people, who are stout and clumsily formed, had their faces painted, and +were very imperfectly covered with seal-skins. Their chief article of +clothing, indeed, was a small cloak which they wore on the side on which +the wind comes when walking or sitting. They lived chiefly on +shell-fish, and in search of them wandered from place to place. They +were considered as among the most dull and stupid of the human race. No +wonder, indeed, considering the few objects on which their minds could +be expanded. A farther acquaintance with these tribes has shown that +they have minds as capable of receiving good impressions as other human +beings, and that they are not destitute of a considerable amount of +intelligence. + +The Endeavour took her departure from Cape Horn on January 26, 1769. +She ran for seven hundred leagues without land being seen. After that +she passed several coral islands, the appearance of which is now +familiar to most people, but in those days was but little-known. To +three of them the names of Lagoon Island, Bow Island, and Chain Island +were given; several of them were inhabited. + +On April 11 she sighted Otaheite, [now known as Tahiti] called King +George's Island by Captain Wallis, which appeared high and mountainous, +and on the 13th came to an anchor in Matavai Bay. As she approached the +land numerous canoes came off, their crews carrying young plantains and +other green branches as a sign of friendship. Several of the boughs +were handed on board, and it was intimated that they should be placed in +different parts of the ship to show that the voyagers also wished for +peace. The natives exhibited great satisfaction on this being done. +They gladly exchanged cocoanuts, fruit resembling apples, bread-fruit, +and small fish, for beads and other trifles. They had a pig, which they +would not part with for anything but a hatchet; this Cook would not +allow to be given, considering that if a hatchet was given them it would +be considered from that time forward to be the proper price of a pig. + +The bread-fruit, with which the voyagers now first became acquainted, +grows on a tree about the height of an ordinary oak. Its leaves are +about a foot and a half long, of an oblong shape, deeply sinuated like +those of the fig-tree, which they resemble in consistency and colour; +they also, on being broken, exude a white, milky juice. The fruit is +about the size and shape of a child's head, and the surface is +reticulated. It is covered with a thin skin, and has an oblong core +four inches long. The eatable part, which lies between the skin and the +core, is as white as snow, and of the consistency of new bread. It must +be roasted before it is eaten, being first divided into three or four +parts. Its taste is insipid, with a slight sweetness somewhat +resembling the crumb of wheaten bread mixed with a Jerusalem artichoke. + +The first person who came off was Owhaw. He was well-known to Mr Gore, +and to others who had been there with Captain Wallis. It was hoped that +he would prove useful, and he was therefore taken on board and every +attention shown him. Captain Cook at once issued a set of rules to +govern the ship's company in all their intercourse with the natives. +They were as follows:-- + +"1. To endeavour by every fair means to cultivate a friendship with the +natives; and to treat them with all imaginable humanity. + +"2. A proper person or persons will be appointed to trade with the +natives for all manner of provisions, fruit, and other productions of +the earth; and no officer or seaman, or other person belonging to the +ship, excepting such as are so appointed, shall trade or offer to trade +for any sort of provision, fruit, or other productions of the earth, +unless they have leave so to do. + +"3. Every person employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is strictly +to attend to the same; and if by any neglect he loses any of his arms or +working tools, or suffers them to be stolen, the full value thereof will +be charged against his pay, according to the custom of the Navy in such +cases; and he shall receive such further punishment as the nature of the +case may deserve. + +"4. The same penalty will be inflicted on every person who is found to +embezzle, trade, or offer to trade with any part of the ship's stores of +what nature soever. + +"5. No sort of iron, or anything that is made of iron, or any sort of +cloth, or other useful or necessary articles are to be given in exchange +for anything but provisions." + +Though there can be no doubt as to Captain Cook's own feelings and +wishes, his subordinates did not always act in accordance with them; and +his judicious and benevolent designs with regard to the natives were +thus frequently frustrated. As soon as the ship was secured, he, with +Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and a party of men under arms, went on shore, +where they were received by hundreds of the natives, whose countenances +exhibited their friendly feelings. At first, however, the simple people +were so struck with awe that they approached their visitors crouching +down almost on their hands and feet, while they carried in their hands +the green boughs as emblems of peace. The leader presented Captain Cook +with a bough, which he and his companions received with looks and +gestures of kindness and satisfaction. Each of the Englishmen also +immediately gathered a bough, and carried it in the same way the natives +did theirs. The party then proceeded about a mile and a half towards +the place where Captain Wallis' ship, the Dolphin, had watered. Here a +halt was called, and the natives having cleared away all the plants that +grew on the ground, the principal persons among them threw their green +branches on the bare spot, and made signs that their visitors should do +the same. Captain Cook at once yielded to this request. The marines +being drawn up, each as he passed dropped his bough on those of the +Indians, the officers then doing the same. The natives now intimated to +Captain Cook that he might make use of the ground for any purpose he +desired; but as it was not suitable for the purpose of the expedition, +the offer was declined. + +The party now took a circuitous route of four or five miles through +groves of trees which were loaded with cocoanuts and bread-fruit, and +afforded the most grateful shade. Under these trees were the +habitations of the people, most of them in the daytime presenting the +appearance of a roof without walls. Mats at night were let down to +afford such privacy and shelter as the habits of the people and the +genial climate required. The whole scene seemed to realise to the +voyagers the poetical fables of Arcadia. + +The reception Captain Wallis met with from these people was in the first +instance very different from that which Captain Cook and his companions +now received. No sooner did the Dolphin, which the savages called a +huge canoe without an outrigger, appear, than several thousand people, +in canoes laden with stones, came off and attacked her. Not until they +had been repeatedly fired on, and many of their number had been killed, +did they retire. Several shots were fired at the crowds on shore before +they would disperse. The people then saw that it would be hopeless to +contend with the strangers, and with green boughs in their hands sued +for peace. After this, Captain Wallis was treated with great attention, +especially by a female chief, whom he called a queen or princess, and +who lived in a house much larger than any others in the neighbourhood. +On Captain Cook's arrival, no trace of her house was to be found, and +the princess herself had disappeared. Indeed, the voyagers were +convinced that as yet they had seen none of the leading chiefs of the +island. The next day, however, two persons of greater consequence than +any who had yet appeared came off, called Matahah and Tootahah; the +first fixing on Mr Banks as his friend, and the latter on Captain Cook. +The ceremony consisted in the natives taking off a great part of their +clothing, and putting on that of their white friends. A similar +ceremony exists among some of the tribes of North America. The dress of +the natives was formed from cloth made of the bark of the paper-mulberry +tree. + +Captain Cook, Mr Banks, and others accompanied these chiefs on shore, +where they met another chief, Tubourai Tamaide, and formed a treaty of +friendship with him. He invited them to his house, and gave them a +feast of fish, bread-fruit, cocoanuts, and plantains, dressed after the +native fashion. The natives ate some of the fish raw, a feat the +Englishmen could not accomplish. The general harmony was interrupted by +Dr Solander and Mr Monkhouse finding that their pockets had been +picked, the one of an opera glass, the other of his snuff-box. Mr +Banks on this started up and struck the butt end of his musket violently +on the ground. On this, most of the people ran away, but the chief +remained. To show his concern, and that he had nothing to do with the +theft, he offered Mr Banks several pieces of native cloth as a +compensation. When Mr Banks refused it, and let him understand that he +required only what had been taken away, the chief went out, and in half +an hour returned with the snuff-box and the case of the opera glass. +His countenance fell when he found the case empty, and taking Mr Banks +by the hand, he led him out towards the shore at a rapid rate. On the +way, followed by Dr Solander and Mr Monkhouse, he passed a woman, who +handed him a piece of cloth, which he took, and went on till he reached +another house, where a woman received them. He intimated that they +should give her some beads. These with the cloth were placed on the +floor, when the woman went out, and in half an hour returned with the +glass. The beads were now returned, and the cloth was forced on Dr +Solander, who could not well refuse it, though he insisted on giving a +present in return. This, among other instances, shows that the people +had a sense of justice, and were raised above the savage state in which +the inhabitants of many of the surrounding islands were plunged. + +A spot was at last fixed on, away from habitations, where the +astronomical instruments could be set up, protected by a fort; and on +the 10th, Captain Cook, accompanied by Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and Mr +Green, went on shore with a party of men to commence operations. A +number of natives, on seeing them, collected to watch their proceedings; +though they had no weapons, it was intimated to them that they must not +cross a line which the captain drew in front of the ground it was +proposed to occupy. Having taken all the precautions he considered +necessary, he left a midshipman and a party of marines to guard the +tent, and, with Mr Banks and the other gentlemen, set off on an +excursion through the woods, accompanied by Owhaw, who, however, seemed +very unwilling that they should go far from the shore. One of their +objects was to obtain poultry and pigs. Owhaw's unwillingness to +proceed arose, they believed, from the fact that their live-stock had +been driven into the interior by the natives lest their white visitors +should lay violent hands on them. + +As fresh meat or poultry was much wanted, Mr Banks, seeing some ducks, +fired and killed three at one shot, which so astonished the natives that +most of them fell flat on the ground as if knocked down by the same +discharge. They soon recovered, however, and proceeded with the white +men. The Englishmen were walking somewhat apart, when, shortly after +the above-mentioned incident, two shots were heard. Owhaw, on this, +seemed to think, as the visitors did, that something was wrong, and +signing to them to keep together, sent most of the natives away. Three +chiefs, however, remained, who instantly broke off green boughs from the +nearest trees, and extended them towards the English, to show that they +wished to be on terms of friendship, whatever had happened. The +Englishmen, of course, full of anxiety, hurried back to the tent. On +their arrival they found that the natives had fled, and that one of them +had been killed. It appeared that a native had suddenly seized the +sentry's musket and made off with it, when the midshipman, most +improperly, ordered the marines to fire. This they did, into the very +middle of the flying crowd; but finding that the thief did not fall, +they pursued and shot him dead. It is easy to fancy Captain Cook's +grief and annoyance at this incident. In spite of his humane desire to +treat the natives justly and kindly, and to cultivate their goodwill, +and notwithstanding all his precautions against violence, blood had been +shed. Though the native had acted wrongly, death was too severe a +punishment for his fault. The chiefs who had remained with Cook behaved +very well. Calling the people around, they enabled him to explain to +them that though the English would allow no liberties to be taken, yet +their desire was to treat them with kindness. + +Notwithstanding these assurances, the next morning very few natives came +near the ship, and she was consequently warped closer in, more +effectually to protect the intended fort. Before long, however, the +natives got over their alarm, and the two chiefs Tubourai Tamaide and +Tootahah returned, bringing in their canoes not branches only, but two +young trees, and would not venture on board till these had been received +as emblems of peace. They each also brought, as propitiatory gifts, a +hog and bread-fruit ready dressed--both very acceptable articles at that +time. In return, a hatchet and a nail were given to each of them. + +At this time the expedition had the misfortune to lose Mr Buchan, the +landscape-painter brought out by Mr Banks. + +Rapid progress was made with the forts, and on April 18, Mr Banks's +tent being set up, he slept on shore for the first time. The natives +had by this time completely recovered from their alarm, and an abundance +of provisions was offered for sale. Their friend Tubourai Tamaide even +brought his wife and family to the fort, and did not hesitate to throw +himself down and sleep on Mr Banks's bed. The voyagers were gradually +gaining an insight into the manners and customs of the people. Mr +Monkhouse, in one of his walks, learned their mode of treating their +dead. He found the body of the poor man who had been shot. It was +wrapped in cloth, and placed on a high platform supported by stakes, +with a roof over it; near it were some instruments of war and other +articles. Two other bodies were seen near, in a similar position, the +bones of which were perfectly dry. The first was near the hut in which +the man had lived. On the approach of the white man to the bodies the +natives showed considerable uneasiness, and seemed greatly relieved when +the examination was over. + +A few days afterwards Tootahah amused them by a concert. There were +four performers on flutes having two stops, which were sounded by +application to the end of the nose, instead of the mouth; one nostril +being stopped by the hand. + +Longer excursions from the shore than they had at first ventured to take +gave the explorers a good notion of the fertility and resources of the +country. After passing a belt of fertile land, about two miles wide, +they came to a range of barren hills. These being crossed, they +descended into a wide plain, watered by a river issuing from a fertile +valley, which was nearly a hundred yards wide, and at a considerable +distance from the sea. + +This plain was thickly studded over with houses, the inhabitants of +which seemed to live in the full enjoyment of the ample productions of +their country. As they became better acquainted with the people, it was +discovered that, amiable as the people appeared, they had many vicious +habits. They were generally expert and pertinacious thieves, although +some of the chiefs appear to have been exempt from this vice, or to have +been ashamed of practising it on their liberal visitors. + +The fort was completed on April 26, and six swivel guns were mounted on +it. This seemed very naturally to excite the apprehensions of the +people, and some fishermen who lived near wisely moved farther off. +Owhaw, indeed, intimated by signs that the English would begin to fire +their guns in four days. Notwithstanding this, Tubourai Tamaide and +other chiefs, with their wives, came into the fort and ate without +showing any signs of fear. Again the commander's patience was tried by +the misconduct of one of his own people. The butcher had taken a fancy +to a stone hatchet in the hands of the wife of the above-named chief, +and because she refused to give it to him for a nail, he threatened to +kill her. Being proved guilty of this crime, as well as of an +infraction of the rules drawn up by the commander, he received a severe +flogging, in the presence of a number of the natives. It speaks well +for their kind feelings that when they saw the first strokes given they +begged that the rest of his punishment might be remitted, and when +Captain Cook would not consent to this they burst into tears. Indeed, +numberless instances proved that these people were mere children of +impulse. They had never been taught to disguise or suppress their +feelings; easily affected by all the changes of the passing hour, their +sorrows were transient, and their joy and pleasure speedily excited. +Unaccustomed to dwell on the past, or to allow themselves to be troubled +with thoughts of the future, all they desired was to gratify the desire +of the moment. About this time--the beginning of May--an event occurred +which threatened disappointment to the object of the expedition. This +was the disappearance, from the middle of the fort, of the quadrant, a +large instrument in a case, on which the possibility of making the +proposed observations entirely depended. Search was instantly made in +every direction, and at length, through the intervention of the friendly +chiefs, portions were discovered in the possession of the natives. They +had been carried off by different people, but fortunately, not broken, +and finally all the parts were collected and the instruments set up. At +the suggestion of the Earl of Morton, before leaving home, Captain Cook +sent out two parties to observe the transit of Venus from different +situations--one to the east, the other to the westward. The anxiety for +such weather as would be favourable to the success of the experiment was +powerfully felt by all parties concerned; they could not sleep the +preceding night; but their apprehensions were removed by the sun's +rising without a cloud on the eventful morning of June 3. The weather +continued with equal clearness throughout the day, so that the +observations at each post were successfully made. At the fort Captain +Cook, Mr Green, and Dr Solander were stationed. The passage of the +planet Venus over the sun's disc was observed with great advantage. + +The explorers had been, from the first, anxious to see the person who +had been looked upon by Captain Wallis as the queen of the island, and +at length, a number of people being collected at the tents, Mr +Mollineux, the master, declared that one of the females, who was sitting +quietly among the rest, was the lady herself. She, at the same time, +acknowledged him to be one of the strangers she had before seen. Her +name, they soon learned, was Oberea. She was tall and stout, and must +have been handsome in her youth. Her countenance indicated much +intelligence, and she was also unusually fair. She was thenceforth +treated with great attention, and many presents were offered her. It +was curious that among them all she seemed to value most a child's doll. +On this, Tootahah, who was apparently at that time the principal chief +on the island, jealous of the favours shown to Oberea, was not content +till he also had a doll given to him. For the moment he valued it more +than a hatchet, probably supposing that its possession conferred some +mark of dignity; or perhaps he took it for one of the gods of the white +men. Whatever the position really held by Oberea, her moral conduct was +not superior to that of most of her countrywomen. She seems to have +been the repudiated wife of Oamo, one of the principal chiefs of the +island. There appeared to have been three brothers, chiefs--Whappai, +the eldest, Oamo, and Tootahah. As soon as a son is born to a head +chief, he succeeds as king, and generally the father becomes regent. +Whappai had a son who was thus king, but Tootahah, having distinguished +himself as a leader in battle, was chosen as regent instead of Whappai, +and a son of Oamo and Oberea was the heir-apparent. It was thus +manifest to our voyagers that even among those simple savages--"the +children of nature" as they were sometimes called--ambition for +greatness and jealousy of power were passions not unknown nor unfelt, +any more than they are among civilised and highly cultivated nations and +races of men. + +Among the attendants of Oberea was Tupia, who had been her minister in +the days of her power, and was now a priest, and possessed of +considerable influence. He from the first attached himself to the +English, and soon expressed a strong desire to accompany them whenever +they should leave the country. As it was very important to have an +intelligent native of a South Sea island attached to the expedition, +Captain Cook gladly availed himself of this desire, and Tupia was +subsequently received on board the Endeavour as interpreter. + +During his first visit to the island, Captain Cook learned very little +about the religion of the people. He came to the conclusion that they +believed in one God or Creator of the universe, and in a number of +subordinate deities, called Etuas, as also in a separate state of +existence with different degrees of happiness. They did not seem to +fancy that their deities took any notice of their actions. Their +religion, such as it was, had therefore no restraining influence over +them. Their priests were called Tahowas. The office was hereditary. +All ranks belonged to it. The chief priest was generally the younger +brother of a good family, and was respected in a degree next to the +king. Of the little knowledge existing in the country the priests +possessed the greatest share, especially with regard to navigation and +astronomy. The name Tahowa signifies, indeed, a man of knowledge. Like +all heathen superstitions, their system was one of imposture; and the +priests supported their authority by cunning, and by working on the +credulity of the people. Captain Cook was not aware at that time that +it was their custom to offer up human sacrifices, and that they +exercised a fearful influence over the people by selecting for victims +those who had in any way offended them. The persons fixed on, often +young men or girls in the pride and strength of youth, were followed, +unsuspicious of the fate awaiting them, and were struck down by the +clubs of the assistant priests without warning. They were then offered +up at their morais to the Etuas, whose anger they desired to propitiate. +The priests professed also to cure diseases by incantations very +similar to those practised by the medicine-men or mystery-men among the +Indians of North America. A society existed, called the Arreoy, the +object of which was to set at defiance all the laws of morality which +the rest of the people acknowledged. Many of the principal people of +the island belonged to it. By its rules any woman becoming a mother was +compelled instantly to strangle her infant. Both Captain Cook and Mr +Banks spoke to some who acknowledged that they had thus destroyed +several children, and, far from considering it as a disgrace, declared +that it was a privilege to belong to the association. For a long period +this dissolute society existed, and opposed all the efforts of the +Christian missionaries to get it abolished. From the lowest to the +highest, the people were addicted to thieving; for even the principal +chiefs could not resist temptation when it came in their way. On one of +their expeditions Mr Banks and his companions had the greater part of +their clothes stolen from them while they were asleep. They had no +doubt that Oberea was concerned in the robbery. + +Still the people possessed qualities which won the regard of their +visitors. In all their habits they were scrupulously clean. They +regularly bathed three times in the day, washed their mouths before and +after eating, and their hands frequently during each meal. It was the +custom for the chiefs to take their meals alone, seated on the ground, +with leaves instead of a cloth spread before them, and their food ready +cooked in a basket by their side. Their chief animal food consisted of +pigs and dogs, the latter being carefully kept for the purpose, and fed +entirely on vegetable diet. It was agreed that South Sea dog was but +little inferior to English lamb. The meat was either broiled or baked +in earth-ovens. A hole was dug in the ground, and a fire lighted in it, +small stones being mixed with the wood. When the hole was sufficiently +hot, the fire was raked out, and a layer of hot stones placed at the +bottom; on this leaves were put. The animal to be cooked was laid on +the top of them, and covered, first with more leaves, and then with the +remainder of the hot stones; the whole being then covered up with earth. +All the fish and flesh eaten by the natives was baked in the same way. + +An excursion in the pinnace, made by Captain Cook and Mr Banks, round +the island, gave them a perfect knowledge of its shape and size. It +consists of two peninsulas joined by a narrow neck of land, and was +found to be about thirty leagues in circumference. Though they were +received in a very friendly way, the natives stole their clothes or +whatever they could lay hands on. On this excursion they met with a +representation of one of their Etuas, or deities. It was the figure of +a man constructed of basket-work, rudely made, and rather more than +seven feet high. The wicker skeleton was completely covered with +feathers, which were white where the skin was to appear, and black in +the parts which it is their custom to paint or stain. On the head was a +representation of hair; there were also four protuberances, three in +front and one behind, which the English would have called horns, but +which were called by the natives Tate Ete (little men). + +In the northern peninsula they visited a burying-place, the pavement of +which was extremely neat; upon it was raised a pyramid five feet high, +covered with the fruit of two plants peculiar to the country. Near the +pyramid, under a shed, was a small image of stone, of very rude +workmanship--the first specimen of stone-carving which had been seen +among the people. Continuing their voyage, they came to a district +belonging to Oberea, and were entertained at her house, which, though +small, was very neat. Not far from it they saw an enormous pile, which +they were told was the morai of Oamo and Oberea, literally their +burying-place and temple. It was a pile of stone-work, raised +pyramidically upon an oblong base or square two hundred and sixty-seven +feet long and eighty-seven wide. It was like the small mounds erected +for sun-dials, with steps leading on all sides to the summit. The steps +at the sides were broader than those at the ends, and it terminated in a +ridge like the roof of a house. There were eleven steps, each four feet +high, so that the height of the pile was forty-four feet; each course +was formed of white coral stone, neatly squared and polished; the rest +of the mass, for there was no hollow within, consisted of round pebbles. +Some of the coral stones were measured, and found to be three feet and +a half by two feet and a half. The foundation was of stones squared, +and one of them measured four feet seven inches by two feet four inches. +It was surprising that such a structure should have been raised without +iron tools to shape the stones, or mortar to join them. The quarried +stones must have been brought from a considerable distance by hand, and +the coral must have been raised from under the water, where, though +there is an abundance, it is at a depth of never less than three feet. +To square these stones must have been a work of incredible labour, +though the polishing might have been more easily effected by means of +the sharp coral sand from the sea-shore. The whole pyramid was not +straight, but formed a slight curve, and made one side of a spacious +area or square of three hundred and sixty feet by three hundred and +fifty-four feet, enclosed by a stone wall, and paved throughout its +whole extent with flat stones. Several trees, called _etoa_ and +plantains, were growing through the pavement. On the top of the pyramid +stood the figure of a bird carved in wood, and near it lay the broken +figure of a fish carved in stone. About a hundred yards to the west of +this building was another paved court, in which were several small +stages raised on wooden pillars seven feet high. These were altars, +called Ewattas, and upon them were placed provisions of all sorts as +offerings to their gods. In the neighbourhood of the morai were found +large numbers of human bones. These were said to have been the remains +of the inhabitants killed a few months before by the people of Tirrabou, +in the south-east peninsula, who had made a sudden descent on the coast. +The jaw-bones had been carried away as trophies, as the Indians of +North America carry off the scalps of their enemies. The natives +conjectured, probably, that the English would not approve of human +sacrifices, and therefore refrained from offering up any, or did so only +when they knew that their visitors would not interrupt them in their +horrible proceedings. + +The inhabitants of Otaheite were remarkably intelligent, and their minds +were capable of a high state of cultivation. The climate was considered +healthy, and the natural productions of the island abundant. The +bread-fruit was, perhaps, the most valuable. They had also cocoanuts, +thirteen sorts of bananas, plantains; a fruit not unlike an apple, sweet +potatoes, yams, cacao; a kind of _arum_, the _yambu_, the sugar-cane; a +fruit growing in a pod, like a large kidney bean; the pandana tree, +which produces fruit like the pine-apple, and numerous edible roots of +nutritious quality. Among other trees must be mentioned the Chinese +paper-mulberry, from which their cloth was, and is still, manufactured, +and two species of fig-trees. There were no serpents and no wild +quadrupeds on the island, except rats. Their tame animals were hogs, +dogs, and poultry, and there were wild ducks, pigeons, paroquets, and a +few other birds. The complexion of the people was olive or light brown; +that of the women of the upper classes being very clear, with +well-formed faces and expressive eyes, the nose only being flatter than +is admired in Europe. In their persons, as already observed, they were +remarkably cleanly; and they certainly showed that they were neither +treacherous nor revengeful. Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and Captain Cook +himself, were constantly in their power, often in their villages, +sleeping in separate huts, without any watch or guard. + +Contrary to the usual custom, the men wore their hair long or tied up in +a bunch, while the women wore it cropped short round their ears. The +bodies of both sexes were tattooed, but not their faces. They +manufactured three sorts of cloth for dress. The finest and whitest was +made from the paper-mulberry tree, and was used for the dresses of the +chief people. The second, used by the common people, was made from the +bread-fruit tree, and the third from a tree resembling a fig-tree. The +latter was coarse and harsh, and of the colour of the darkest brown +paper; but it was valuable because it resisted the wet, while the others +did not. The women of the upper class wore three pieces of cloth; one, +eleven yards long and two wide, was wrapped round the waist, and hung +down like a petticoat; while the two others were formed like the South +American poncho, the head being put through a hole in the middle, so as +to leave the arms at liberty. The men dressed in much the same way, +except that instead of allowing the cloth to hang down like a petticoat, +they brought it between their legs so as to have some resemblance to +breeches. The higher a person's rank, the more clothes he wore, some +throwing a large piece loosely over the shoulders. They shaded their +eyes from the sun with hats made at the moment required, of cocoanut +leaves or matting, and the women sometimes wore small turbans, or a +head-dress which consisted of long plaited threads of human hair, wound +round and round, with flowers of various kinds stuck between the folds, +especially the Cape jessamine, which was always planted near their +houses. The chiefs sometimes wore the tail feathers of birds stuck +upright in their hair. Their personal ornaments besides flowers were +few; but both sexes wore ear-rings of shells, stones, berries, or small +pearls. + +Their houses were always built in woods, sufficient space only being +cleared to prevent the droppings from the boughs from rotting the roofs. +They were simply formed of three rows of parallel stakes for the +support of the roof, the highest part of which was only nine feet from +the ground, while the eaves reached to within three feet and a half. +The houses were thatched with palm-leaves, and the floor was covered +some inches deep with soft hay. They were, indeed, scarcely used for +any other purpose than as dormitories, the people living almost +constantly in the open air. The great chiefs, however, had houses in +which privacy could be enjoyed; and there were guest-houses for the +reception of visitors, or for the accommodation of the people of a whole +district. Some were two hundred feet long, thirty broad, and twenty +high under the ridge; on one side of them was an area enclosed with low +palings. They were maintained at the public expense. + +The style of cookery among these islanders has already been described. +They baked in their earth-ovens hogs and large fish, as also the +bread-fruit. The baked pork and fish were considered more juicy and +more equally done than by any mode of cooking known at home. Of the +bread-fruit they made various dishes, by putting to it either water or +the milk of the cocoanut, and then beating it to a paste with a stone +pestle, and afterwards mixing it with ripe plantains and bananas. They +made an intoxicating beverage from a plant they called _Ava_. The +chiefs only indulged in the vice of drinking to excess, and even they +considered it a disgrace to be seen intoxicated. They sometimes drank +together, and vied with each other in taking the greatest number of +draughts, each draught being about a pint. They ate a prodigious +quantity of food at each meal, and would finish off by swallowing a +quart of pounded bread-fruit of the consistency of custard. + +They had various amusements, and were especially fond of dancing, in +which they kept admirable time, their movements being often graceful; +but their gestures too generally showed the very debased condition of +their morals. Their musical instruments were flutes and drums. The +flutes were made of hollow bamboo, about a foot long. The drums were +blocks of wood of cylindrical form, solid at one end, but scooped out +and covered at the other with shark's skin. They were beaten by the +hands instead of sticks. The natives sang to these instruments, and +often made extempore verses. + +The men delighted especially in wrestling. They also practised archery +and spear-throwing. They shot, not at a mark, but to try how far they +could send an arrow; their spears, however, they threw at a mark, +generally the bole of a plantain, at the distance of twenty yards. +These spears were about nine feet long. They also, in war, used clubs +of hard wood, often well carved, and six or seven feet long; pikes, +headed with the stings of sting-rays; and slings, which they wielded +with great dexterity. Thus armed, they fought with obstinacy and fury, +and gave no quarter to man, woman, or child who, while their passion +lasted, fell into their hands. Although they could not be said to live +under a regular form of government, there was a certain subordination +established among them, not unlike that of European nations under the +feudal system. + +Their tools were few and rude: an adze of stone, a chisel or gouge of +bone--generally that of a man's arm between the wrist and elbow--a rasp +of coral, and the sting of a sting-ray, with coral sand as a file or +polisher. With these tools they built their houses and canoes, hewed +stone, and felled, clove, carved, and polished timber. Their axes were +of different sizes, but even with the largest it took them several days +to cut down a tree. The canoes were often large, and constructed with +great labour and ingenuity. They were of two builds: one, the _Ivaha_, +for short excursions, was wall-sided, with a flat bottom; the other, the +_Pahie_, for longer voyages, was bow-sided, with a sharp bottom. There +was the fighting Ivaha, the fishing Ivaha, and the travelling Ivaha. +The fighting Ivaha was the largest; the head and stern were raised +sometimes seventeen feet or more above the sides, which were only three +feet out of the water. Two of these vessels were always secured +together by strong poles about three feet apart. Towards the head a +platform was raised, about twelve feet long, wider than the boats, and +on this platform stood the fighting men, armed with slings and spears; +for they did not use their bows and arrows except for amusement. Below +the stage the rowers sat with reserved men, who supplied the place of +those that were wounded. Some of their war canoes had stages or decks +from one end to the other. The fighting Pahie was often sixty feet +long, and two were also joined together, with a large platform above +them. One measured by Captain Cook was, though sixty feet long, only +one foot and a half at the gunwale, with flat sides; then it abruptly +widened out to three feet, and narrowed again to the keel. The double +canoes were sometimes out a month together, going from island to island. +Some carried one, some two masts, with sails of matting, of +shoulder-of-mutton shape. The bottom of a large Pahie was formed of +three or more trunks of trees secured together and hollowed out, above +this flooring were the sides of plank, two inches thick, and about +fifteen inches broad; and then there were the upper works, hollowed out +of trunks of trees like the bottom. Sometimes these canoes were used +singly, but then they were fitted with outriggers like the flying Proa +of the Ladrone Islands. The outrigger is a log of wood fixed at the end +of two poles, which lie across the vessel, projecting eight or ten feet, +according to her size. The length and high sterns of these canoes gave +them great advantage in putting off from the shore through the surf; +they also sailed and paddled very fast. The amount of time and labour +expended in the construction of one of these canoes must have been very +great, and speaks well for the intelligence as well as for the industry +and perseverance of the islanders. + +Before quitting the island, Mr Banks planted a quantity of seeds of +water-melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and trees which +he had collected at Rio de Janeiro. He had prepared the ground for them +in the neighbourhood of the fort, in as many varieties of soil as he +could select. He also gave away seeds liberally to the natives, and +planted others in the woods. The plants from some melon-seeds which +were sown on their first arrival were flourishing, and the natives +eagerly begged for more. + +Many articles manufactured by the natives have not yet been described. +The mode of making cloth from the bark of the paper-mulberry was +curious. When the trees were of a fit size, they were pulled up, and +the tops and roots being cut off, the bark was slit longitudinally, and +was this easily removed. It was then placed under stones in running +water. When sufficiently softened, the coarser parts were scraped away +with a shell, the fine fibres of the inner coat only remaining. They +were then placed on plantain-leaves, in lengths of about twelve yards, +one by the side of the other, for about a foot in width. Two or three +layers were also placed one on the other, care being taken that the +thickness should be equal throughout. In this state it remained till +the following morning, when all the water it contained being drained off +or evaporated, the fibres were found to adhere so closely together that +the whole piece could be lifted up and carried home. There it was +placed on a long, smooth board, to be beaten by the women. The +instrument they used was a four-sided piece of wood, with a long handle. +This mallet was scored with grooves of different finenesses, those on +one side being wide enough to receive a small pack-thread, the size of +the grooves diminishing by degrees till those on the last side were fine +as the finest silk. The fabric was beaten with the coarser side first, +the women keeping time, and it spread rapidly under their strokes. The +finest side was the last used, and the groove marked the cloth so as to +give it the appearance of having been made of fine thread. It was then +almost as thin as English muslin, and became very white on being +bleached in the air. The scarlet dye used was very brilliant, and was +extracted from the juice of a species of fig; a duller red was from the +leaves of another tree. A yellow pigment was extracted from the root of +the _Morinda citrifolia_. A brown and a black dye were also used. + +The natives, when visited by Cook, manufactured mats of various +descriptions, some of them exceedingly fine and beautiful. One sort +served them for clothing in wet weather. They made also coarse mats of +rushes and grass, to sit or sleep on, plaiting them with great rapidity +and facility. They produced every variety of basket-work of great +beauty; they also made ropes and string of all sorts; their +fishing-line, made from the bark of a species of nettle, was far +stronger than any English line of the same thickness. Their +fishing-nets, though coarse, answered their purpose. They were often +eighty fathoms in length. Harpoons, made of cane, were used to catch +fish, and fish-hooks of mother-of-pearl. One used for trawling had a +white tuft of dog's or hog's hair attached to it, to look like the tail +of a fish. The fishermen watched for the birds which always follow a +shoal of bonetas, and seldom returned without a prize. Both sexes were +expert swimmers, and would dash out through the fiercest foam, diving +under the breaking seas as they rolled in, and coming up on the other +side. One of their amusements was to tow out a small raft on which they +would sit, and allow themselves to be carried in on the top of a high +foaming sea, amid which no boat could live for an instant. They were +not without the comfort of artificial light. Their candles were made of +the kernels of a kind of oily nut, which were stuck one over another on +a skewer running through the middle. The upper one being lighted burnt +down to the second, which took fire, the part of the skewer which went +through the first being consumed, and so on to the last. These candles +burnt a considerable time, and gave a very tolerable light. + +From the brief description which has been given of their manufactures it +will be seen that the islanders of Otaheite possessed a considerable +number of the conveniences of life. Had they but been blessed with true +religion and a good government, they would already have had most of the +elements of a happy existence, without further intercourse with the rest +of the world. + +That a life such as was apparently led by these South Sea islanders--a +life of comparative ease, and in a luxurious and enervating but inviting +climate--should have presented charms to such men as chiefly composed +the crew of the Endeavour, can excite no surprise. Rude, ignorant, and, +for the most part, vicious themselves, in spite of the boasted +civilisation of their country, they saw nothing repulsive in the +rudeness, ignorance, and vices of the dusky natives. On the other hand, +they were attracted by visions of indolence and savage freedom from +care. Some of them also had formed attachments not easy to be broken; +and they were willing to barter their distant homes, connections, and +prospects for the licentious pleasures so near at hand. It was very +difficult for them to resist these enticements; and notwithstanding the +vigilance of the commander of the expedition, two marines managed to +desert from the ship. In order to recover these deserters, Captain Cook +thought himself under the necessity of detaining several of the +principal people of the island on board the Endeavour. This led to +reprisals; for on a party being sent on shore to bring off the +deserters, they were, in turn, seized by the natives, who made it +understood that they should not be restored till their chiefs were set +at liberty. A stronger party was consequently sent from the ship, with +a message from Tootahah (one of the captives), desiring that the +Englishmen should be released. This, happily, had the desired effect, +and the deserters, as well as the other men, were immediately sent back. +Thus, in this, as in previous transactions, the prudence and mildness +of the islanders averted a quarrel which, had it proceeded to +extremities, would have left the civilised visitors little to boast of, +beyond the superior power they possessed. And it must be a source of +deep regret to every Christian reader that in the protracted intercourse +which had been carried on between these professed Christians on the one +hand, and the poor heathens on the other, not one attempt, so far as is +known, had been made to impart a knowledge of that glorious Being who is +the "Light of the world" and "the Saviour of men;" nor of God the Holy +Spirit, who is the Giver of the only true and eternal life. The +scientific objects of the voyage had, indeed, thus far been successful, +and, to a great extent, had been rendered so by the goodwill of the +islanders; but to the silent appeal for religious teaching and spiritual +aid made to the philosophers of that party by the ignorance of their +hosts there was no reply. + +The fort was now completely dismantled, and preparations were made for +sailing. At a last interview with the chiefs, all differences were +settled, and the voyagers parted from the islanders on the most friendly +terms. The latter, indeed, were loud in their demonstrations of grief. +Tupia, who still adhered to his determination of sailing in the +Endeavour, though he shed tears, bade farewell to his countrymen in a +dignified manner, and as far as he was able, concealed the sorrow he +evidently felt. The Endeavour had remained exactly three months at the +island. It was high time for her to leave; for the season for cocoanuts +and bread-fruit being over, the natives could no longer spare any of +their provisions for the strangers. Tupia, who had gone on shore, +returned again on board with his servant, a lad of thirteen, called +Tayeto, and on July 13, 1769, the Endeavour sailed from Otaheite to +continue her voyage towards the west. + +Tupia informed Captain Cook that four islands, called Huaheine, Ulietea, +Otaha, and Bolabola, lay at the distance of between one and two days' +sail of Otaheite, and that refreshments in abundance might be procured +at them. In consequence, however, of light winds, the Endeavour did not +get off Huaheine till the morning of the 16th. Tupia probably fancied +that he could impose on the white men as he did on his own people, for +in his character of priest he began to offer prayers, or rather to +perform incantations, as soon as he saw the prospect of a breeze +springing up. + +Upon the ship's getting close in with the land, several canoes came off, +but kept at a distance till they discovered Tupia. In one of them were +Oree, king of the island, and his wife. On receiving reiterated +assurances that they would be treated as friends, they ventured on +board. Though at first struck with astonishment at what they saw, they +soon became familiar with their visitors, and the king expressed his +wish to change names with the captain, who was henceforth called Captain +Oree, while the chief took the name of King Cookee. The ship having +anchored in a small, excellent harbour called Owharee, the captain, Mr +Banks, Dr Solander, and Mr Monkhouse, with Tupia and King Cookee, went +on shore. On landing Tupia stripped himself to the waist, and desired +Mr Monkhouse, whom he seems to have looked on as a brother priest, to +do the same; and sitting down in a large guest-house, full of people, +opposite the king, he began a sort of incantation, the king answering in +what appeared to be set responses. During this he made presents of some +handkerchiefs, beads, two bunches of feathers, and plantains to the +Etua, or god of the island, and received in return a hog, two bunches of +feathers, and some young plantains, as presents to the white man's God. +[Note 3.] + +These he ordered to be carried on board. On the treaty, as the ceremony +was supposed to be, being concluded, every one went his way, and Tupia +repaired to worship at a morai. The next day, as Tupia was much engaged +with his friends in the island, the captain and Mr Banks took Tayeto as +their companion in their rambles. The most interesting object they met +with was a chest or cask, the lid of which was nicely sewed on, and +neatly thatched with palm-leaves. It was fixed on two horizontal poles, +and supported on arches of wood neatly carved. The object of the poles +seemed to be to remove it from place to place. There was a circular +hole at one end, stopped, when it was first seen, with cloth. The chest +was, on a second visit, found to be empty. The general resemblance +between it and the ark of the Lord among the Jews was remarkable. The +boy called it _Ewharre no Etua_ (the house of the god). He, however, +could give no account of its use. + +Some hogs were exchanged for axes, and some medals bestowed on the king, +and no accident having happened to mar their friendly intercourse with +the natives, the voyagers took their departure. The people were +superior in size and appearance to the general run of the natives of +Otaheite, and the women fairer and better-looking. Not having +experienced the effects of the guns of the Dolphin, they were less timid +than the people of Otaheite, and did not fall down on hearing a musket +fired. On one of them being detected in thieving, his companions +prescribed a good beating, which was at once administered. + +The next island visited was Ulietea, where, within the coral reef, the +ship anchored in a good harbour. Two canoes at once came off, each +bringing a woman and a pig--the one as a mark of confidence, the other +as a present. The ladies each received a spike-nail and some beads, +greatly to their delight. On landing, the Union-Jack was hoisted, and +the three islands in sight taken possession of in the name of his +Britannic Majesty. Here was a large morai, called Tapodeboatea, which +was visited, and found to be different from those of Otaheite. It +consisted only of four walls, eight feet high, built of coral stones-- +some of immense size--enclosing an area of five-and-twenty yards square, +filled up with smaller stones. On the top of it many carved planks were +set on end, and at a little distance was an altar, on which lay a hog of +about eighty pounds weight, roasted whole, supposed to have been a +sacrifice. Round it were four or five arks resting on poles like that +seen at Huaheine. In the interior of one of them Mr Banks found a +package done up tightly in mats. He had opened several folds, but the +last resisted all his attempts; and as he saw that his proceeding gave +great offence, he was compelled to desist. Not far off was a long +house, where, among rolls of cloth, was the model of a canoe, about +three feet long, to which were tied eight human jaw-bones. Other +jaw-bones were seen near the ark, and Tupia affirmed that they were +those of natives of the island. + +Bad weather detained the ship in the harbour of Oopoa for two more days, +and when at length she got out, she was in imminent danger of striking +on a reef, having got unexpectedly close to the edge of one, which was +discovered from the water being shallow on one side, though deep enough +under the keel to float her. Some time was expended in endeavouring to +beat up to an anchorage off Bolabola, and several smaller islands were +visited. + +A leak having been discovered, and some more ballast being required, +Captain Cook put into a harbour in Ulietea, at the opposite side of the +island to that he had before visited. While the ship's company were +taking in ballast and water, Mr Banks and Dr Solander went on shore, +and were everywhere received with the greatest respect by the natives, +who seemed conscious that their white visitors had the power, though not +the desire, to do them every possible harm. Men, women, and children +crowded round them, and followed them wherever they went; but no one was +guilty of the least incivility. On the contrary, the men vied with each +other in lifting them over any dirt or water in the way. + +On approaching the first house, they saw the people arrange themselves +on either side of a long mat spread on the ground, at the farther end of +which sat some young girls and very pretty children, dressed with the +greatest neatness and taste, who kept their position, evidently +expecting the strangers to come up and make them presents. At one +house, at the end of a mat thirty feet long, sat a girl about six years +old; her dress was red, and a large quantity of plaited hair was wound +round her head. She was leaning on the arm of a good-looking woman, +supposed to be her nurse. The gentlemen walked up to her, and as soon +as they approached she stretched out her hands for the beads which they +offered, and received them with a grace which no princess in Europe +could have surpassed. The people, in consequence of these gifts, seemed +to be so pleased with their visitors that they employed every means in +their power to amuse them. The master of one of the houses where they +stopped ordered a dance to be performed before them, different from any +they had yet witnessed. It was executed by one man, who put on a high +head-dress of feathers, edged round with sharks' teeth. As he moved +slowly round he made it describe a circle, bringing it often close to +the faces of the spectators so as to make them start back, always to the +great amusement of the rest. + +In the course of their walk the next day they met a company of dancers-- +two women and six men, with three drums--who were making a tour of the +island for their own amusement, for they received no pay, and were said +by Tupia to be among the principal people of the country. The women +wore graceful head-dresses of long braids of hair and flowers. The +upper parts of their bodies were without clothing; but they were amply +clothed from the breast downwards in black, and they wore pearls in +their ears. The dances were of the immoral kind general in the islands. +Regular dramas were also represented before the strangers. + +It appeared that the island had lately been conquered by the subjects of +Opoony, King of Bolabola, whose acquaintance Captain Cook wished to +make. Instead of seeing a fine-looking warrior as he had expected, he +found a withered, decrepit wretch, half blind with age; yet it seemed +that he was the terror of all the surrounding islands. + +A good supply of hogs, poultry, and other provisions having been +obtained at Ulietea, and her leak being stopped, the Endeavour sailed on +August 9. As Bolabola was difficult of access, Captain Cook gave up his +intention of touching there. To gratify Tupia, however, he fired a shot +towards the island, though it was seven leagues distant. The object of +Tupia appeared to be that of showing his resentment against the king of +that island, as well as of exhibiting the power of his new allies. + +To the six islands which had been visited or seen, namely, Ulietea, +Otaha, Bolabola, Huaheine, Tubai, and Maurua, Captain Cook gave the name +of the Society Islands. Otaheite was not included in the group, but +continued to be known as King George's Island. [Note 1.] + +The voyagers were much disappointed in finding that they could not keep +their live-stock. The hogs would not eat European grain of any sort, +nor bread-dust; and the fowls were seized with a disease which made them +hold their heads between their legs till they died. + +Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the 13th, when an island, called, +by Tupia, Oheteroa, was seen. The next morning Mr Gore was sent in the +pinnace to attempt a landing, accompanied by Mr Banks, Dr Solander, +and Tupia. As the boat approached the land a number of natives, armed +with long lances, appeared. The main body sat down, while two walked +abreast of the boat as she pulled along the shore. At length they +leaped into the water and swam towards the boat, but were left behind. +Two others followed, but were soon distanced. At last, one man, running +on, got up to the boat. Mr Banks, wishing to gain the goodwill of the +natives by kind treatment, urged Mr Gore to take him in; but he +declined doing so. On the English attempting to land, soon after this, +several natives came off in a canoe and boarded the boat, evidently with +the intention of capturing her; indeed, it was not till muskets were +fired over their heads that the savages leaped out and swam ashore. As +no harbour or good landing-place was discovered in the circuit of the +island, and as the natives were everywhere hostile, the attempt to land +was abandoned. The clothing of the inhabitants was considered superior +to that of the natives of the islands before visited. The cloth of +which their dresses were made was richly coloured. One piece of red or +yellow was crossed on the breast, and sewed round the waist as a sash. +They had also head-dresses of white or lead-coloured cloth, shaped like +a small turban; and some wore the feathers of the native birds round +their heads. They had well-finished lances in their hands, twenty feet +long, and highly carved and polished clubs and pikes. The canoe also, +though small, was richly carved; and her head and stern were ornamented +with white feathers. Tupia stated that there were numerous islands +between the south and north-west, at different distances from Oheteroa; +and that there was one, three days' sail to the north-east, called +Manua, or Bird Island. The most distant island with which he was +acquainted to the south was Mouton, but his father had told him of +islands to the south of that. But considering the uncertainty of this +information, Captain Cook determined not to lose time in looking for +islands, but to steer to the south in search of a continent. + +In leaving these islands we cannot help expressing regret that the +voyagers were so forgetful, as they appear to have been, of their +obligations to the religion they professed, and of the eternal welfare +of those among whom they sojourned. They found a people sunk in +idolatry and superstition, and should have endeavoured to do as the +Apostle Paul did at Athens, where, finding an altar inscribed "To the +unknown God," he said to the assembled multitude, "Whom therefore ye +ignorantly worship, Him declare I unto you," and then began to preach +Jesus Christ and His great salvation. But so far from imitating this +example, they, in many instances, took part in their idolatrous and +superstitious ceremonies. It is vain to attempt an excuse of these +Englishmen by saying either that it was the fashion of the times to pass +by the heathen without a thought for their wretched lost condition, or +that the party of philosophers and scientific men and discoverers were +not Christian missionaries. Every Christian ought to look upon himself +as a missionary, when work for his Lord can be done by him; and it was a +bad fashion to follow, surely, that of suffering heathens to perish +without one effort made for their salvation. No doubt there were great +physical and natural impediments in the way of Cook and his associates +making anything known to the natives of those islands; but these +impediments were overcome in relation to other matters. + +The Endeavour sailed from Oheteroa on August 15, 1769. The 25th was the +first anniversary of the day she had quitted the shores of England. To +celebrate it a Cheshire cheese was cut, and a cask of porter broached, +and both were found excellent. Those who have been long at sea and away +from home can best understand the importance attached to such trifles, +and the pleasure they afford. + +On the morning of the 30th a comet was seen in the east, a little above +the horizon. Tupia, who observed it with others, instantly cried out +that as soon as the people of Bolabola perceived it they would attack +the inhabitants of Uhetea, who would have to fly to the mountains to +save their lives. Meeting with a heavy sea and strong gales from the +westward, on September 1 Captain Cook wore and stood to the northward. +On the weather moderating he continued his course to the westward during +the whole of September. Several seals were seen asleep on the surface +of the water, and various birds were perceived, a sure indication that +the ship was approaching land. On October 6 land was seen from the +mast-head, bearing west by north. In the evening it could be seen from +the deck. It was not till the evening of the next day that the voyagers +got near enough to observe the nature of the country, when it appeared +of great extent, with four or five ranges of hills rising one over the +other, and beyond them a lofty chain of mountains. The general opinion +was that they had found the _Terra Australia incognita_. A bay was +seen, and smoke rising from the shore, but night coming on, they were +obliged to stand off till daylight. The next day, on standing in again, +some small but neat houses were seen, and a considerable number of +people seated on the beach. Farther on was discovered a tolerably high +and regular paling, enclosing the whole of the top of a hill. Some on +board supposed it to be a park for deer, others an enclosure for oxen or +sheep. In the afternoon the ship came to an anchor in a bay off the +mouth of a river. The sides of the bay were white cliffs of great +height; the middle was low land, with hills rising behind and +terminating in a chain of lofty mountains. + +Captain Cook, with Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and a party of men in the +yawl and pinnace, landed on the east side of the river; but some people +being perceived on the west side, the yawl crossed over, and while the +gentlemen landed, four boys were left in charge of her. On the approach +of the Englishmen the natives ran away, and the former advanced towards +some huts two or three hundred yards from the water's edge. When, +however, they had got some distance from the yawl, four men with long +lances rushed out of the woods towards her, and would have cut her off +had not the people in the pinnace covered them, and called to the boys +to drop down the stream. This they did, but the natives pursued in +spite of two musket-shots fired at them. At length, one of the natives +was poising his spear to dart it at the boys, when the coxswain of the +pinnace fired a third time, and shot the native dead. The other three +at first attempted to drag off the dead body, but fear soon made them +drop it and take to flight. + +On the captain and his companions returning to the boat they stopped to +examine the body, which had been shot through the heart. It was that of +a man of middle stature, of a brown, but not very dark complexion. One +side of his face was tattooed in spiral lines of regular figure, and his +hair tied in a knot on the top of his head, but no feathers in it. He +wore a garment of a fine cloth, of a manufacture new to the English. +When the voyagers returned on board, they could hear the natives talking +very loudly. The next day the captain and the same party landed with +Tupia, and the marines were afterwards sent for. A large body of +natives had collected on the opposite side of the river, apparently +unarmed; but on the approach of the English they started up, each man +holding a spear or dart, and made signs to the strangers to depart. The +marines being drawn up, the visitors again approached the natives, when +Tupia addressed them in the language of Otaheite, which they perfectly +understood. He told them that their visitors wanted provisions and +water, and would pay them with iron, the properties of which he +explained as well as he could. They replied that they were willing to +trade if the English would cross over to them. Captain Cook consented +to do this, provided they would put aside their arms. This they would +not consent to do. Tupia warned the English, during the conversation, +that the natives were not friendly. Captain Cook then invited the +natives to come across to them. At last, one of them stripped himself +and swam over without his arms. He was soon after followed by others, +to the number of twenty, most of whom came armed; and though iron and +beads were offered them, they set no value apparently on either, for a +few feathers were offered in return, and they at once showed their +hostile disposition by endeavouring to snatch the weapons from the hands +of their visitors. They were told, through Tupia, that if they +continued to proceed in that manner they would be killed; +notwithstanding this, one of them seized Mr Green's hanger from his +side, and ran off with it. Mr Banks on this fired at him with small +shot; but though hit, he still continued to wave the hanger round his +head. Mr Monkhouse, seeing this, fired at him with ball, when he +instantly dropped. Upon this, the main body, who had retired to a rock +in the middle of the river, began to return. Two that were near the man +who had been killed tried to drag off the body. One seized his weapon +of green talc; and the other tried to secure the hanger, which Mr +Monkhouse had but just time to prevent. As the whole body were now +returning with threatening gestures, those who had their guns loaded +with small shot fired. The effect was to make the natives turn back, +and to retreat up the country, several of them being wounded. Such was +the first unhappy attempt of the English to open up an intercourse with +the inhabitants of New Zealand, for that was the magnificent country +Captain Cook and his companions had now reached. Painful as it is to +reflect on the sacrifice of human life which often in those days +attended the first intercourse of civilised Europeans with the savage +inhabitants of newly-discovered countries, and the cruelties and +injuries inflicted, we must not judge our countrymen too harshly. Much +less value was set on human life a century ago than is the case at +present, and dark-skinned savages were scarcely regarded as beings of +the same nature as white men. Captain Cook was, however, undoubtedly a +kind and humane man, and was sincere in his expressions of regret at the +blood his followers so frequently shed whenever they met with opposition +from the natives of the lands they visited. + +Having no longer any hope of establishing a friendly intercourse with +the inhabitants of this place, and finding that the water in the river +was salt, Captain Cook proceeded with the boats round the head of the +bay, in search of fresh water, intending also, if possible, to surprise +some of the natives, and, by kind treatment and presents, to obtain +their friendship. Everywhere, however, a dangerous surf beat on the +coast, and he was unable to land. But seeing two canoes coming in +towards the shore, one under sail, and the other moved by paddles, he +judged it necessary for the object he had in view to intercept them. +Supposing that they were fishermen without arms, he hoped to do this +without bloodshed. Notwithstanding the way in which he had placed the +boats, one of the canoes managed to escape; but the other, under sail, +came directly into the middle of the English boats without perceiving +what they were. On discovering the strangers, the natives lowered their +sail and took to their paddles. Tupia called out to them that those in +the boats wished to be friends; but the natives preferred trusting to +their paddles, and continued their flight. On this, a musket was fired +over their heads, when they ceased paddling and began to strip, not to +swim to the shore but to fight to the last. + +When the boat came up they attacked the English with paddles, stones, +and other weapons, and showed a determination not to be taken alive. +The English, in their own defence, fired, when four out of the seven +people in the canoe were killed. The other three were lads--the eldest +of whom, about nineteen years old, leaped into the sea, swimming +vigorously, and resisting every effort made to capture him. At last he +was seized and taken into the boat, as were the two younger lads, +without further attempt to escape. As soon as they were in the boat, +the lads squatted down, evidently expecting instant death. Every effort +was made to win their confidence, and with so much success that by the +time the ship was reached they appeared not only reconciled to their +fate, but in high spirits. On food being offered them, they ate it +voraciously, and asked and answered questions with every appearance of +pleasure. At night, however, they sighed, and seemed to be mourning for +the friends they had lost; but, encouraged by Tupia, they quickly +regained their cheerfulness, and in the morning ate another enormous +meal. On being told that they would be put on shore where the English +had landed the previous day, they expressed great alarm, and said that +the inhabitants were their enemies and would eat them. At last, on +landing on the other side of the bay, after hesitating for some time, +the lads cried out that they saw, among a large body of natives who were +approaching, one of their relations. Still they seemed doubtful about +joining them, and evidently regretted leaving their new friends. The +body of the native who had been killed the previous day still lay on the +shore. The boys, seeing it, went and covered it with some of the +clothes they had received on board the Endeavour. Soon after, a man, +who proved to be the uncle of one of the boys, swam over with a green +bough in his hand, which was here, as at Otaheite, an emblem of peace. +Tupia received the branch, and several presents were made to the native. +Notwithstanding this, he refused to go on board the strange ship. +Breaking off another bough, he then approached the dead body, before +which he performed numerous ceremonies. When this was done he returned +to his companions, and held with them a long consultation. The boys +refused to go back to their countrymen, and begged again to be taken on +board. The natives, after this, were observed from the ship to cross +the river, and to carry off the dead body on a kind of bier. + +Later in the day, the captain directed Tupia to ask the boys if they had +any longer a fear of landing, the body having been carried off, which +was supposed to be a ratification of peace. They replied that they were +perfectly ready to go, and stepped with alacrity into the boat which was +prepared to carry them on shore. + +On the boat reaching the shore they landed willingly, but soon after, +when she put off, waded back into the water, and entreated to be taken +on board. As the midshipman in charge of the boat had received strict +orders not to receive them, their request was not granted. After a time +a man came and took them across the river, on a raft, to where a large +number of people were assembled. They appeared to be well received, and +shortly after were seen standing on the beach, when they waved their +hands three times and stepped nimbly back to their companions. + +Captain Cook gave the name of Poverty Bay to the place where these +events occurred; and in his journal he strongly expresses his regret at +the destruction of the four unfortunate fishermen, saying that, had he +supposed they would have resisted, he would not have attempted to stop +them; but that, as it was, he could not allow his people to be knocked +on the head by the savages. It may be asked, why were the savages not +permitted to escape? The reply of Captain Cook is, that he considered +it his duty, in prosecution of his enterprise, to open a communication +with the natives by force if he could not succeed by gentle means. In +pursuance of that object, and in accordance with this supposed duty, our +countrymen had little scruple in shedding the blood and taking the lives +of their fellow-men, even when violence was not necessary for their own +safety. + +The next morning the Endeavour sailed from Poverty Bay, but, being +becalmed, several canoes came off to her. The natives in one canoe +setting the example, the rest were easily persuaded to come on board, to +the number of fifty men. Only two weapons were seen among them; these +were made of green talc, and called _patoo-patoo_, being shaped somewhat +like a pointed battledore, with a short handle and sharp edges. They +were well contrived for close fighting, and would certainly split the +thickest skull at a single blow. The sad truth of this some of our +countrymen were afterwards to experience, when not far from this spot +the greater part of a ship's company were destroyed, each savage +producing one of these weapons from under his cloak, and singling out a +victim for instant destruction. Presents were made by the officers of +the Endeavour to the natives, who were all so eager for the white men's +goods that they afterwards exchanged everything they had with them, even +to the paddles of their canoes. Inquiries were made for the poor boys, +and the captain was assured that no harm had happened to them, and that +it was in consequence of the account they had given of their reception +on board that the present party had come off to the ship. + +An hour before sunset the natives paddled off, leaving three of their +number below. As soon as this was discovered they were hailed, but +would not return, nor did the deserted natives seem to be alarmed. The +next morning, however, when they discovered that the ship was at a +distance from the land, their consternation was excessive, and Tupia had +great difficulty in pacifying them. On standing in again, a canoe with +an old chief came off, but he and his followers would not venture on +board till Tupia had used numerous arguments to persuade them--among +others, an assurance that the strangers did not eat men. This remark, +coupled with those of the boys, gave the English their first suspicions +of the horrible propensity of the people with whom they were now +attempting to open up an intercourse. The old chief, after remaining a +short time on board, returned with the three men to the shore. + +The point of land first made to the north of Poverty Bay proved to be +the most eastern part of New Zealand, and was called East Cape. The +Endeavour was now steered to the south. An island close to the main was +passed, which, from its similarity to Portland in Dorsetshire, received +the same name. A number of natives were here seen seated on the cliffs +watching the ship's movements. When she suddenly got close to a reef, +and there was some sign of confusion on board, they showed a disposition +to attack her. Canoes at different times came off, and in one the +people performed certain ceremonies, sometimes offering peace, and then +threatening war. Five large canoes full of armed men soon after came +off. As the boat's crew were sounding, it was necessary to drive them +away. A musket fired over their heads had no effect, but a four-pounder +charged with grape shot, though fired wide, put them to flight. + +Farther along the coast, the next morning, nine or ten large canoes, +which must have contained little short of two hundred men, came off. +When the first five were within a hundred yards of the ship, the natives +began to sing their war-songs and to brandish their weapons. Tupia, on +this, was ordered to inform them of the power and effects of the English +thunder-making arms, and a four-pounder loaded with grape was fired wide +of them. The result was satisfactory, and the natives went peaceably +away. The following day another fleet of canoes came alongside, and +though they had only stale fish to sell, Captain Cook accepted it for +the sake of encouraging traffic. The natives, however, showed every +disposition to take advantage of the strangers, and one of them having +agreed to exchange a black cloak for a piece of red cloth, on receiving +the cloth, packed it in a basket with the cloak, which he refused to +give up, and made off with both cloth and cloak. Among those who were +leaning over the ship's side to hand up the articles purchased from the +natives was Tupia's boy, Tayeto. One of the natives, watching his +opportunity, suddenly seized the boy, and dragging him over, held him +down in the canoe, which made off. The marines on deck were ordered to +fire, and to aim at the end of the canoe farthest away from the boy. +One of the natives was seen to fall, when the other let go his hold of +Tayeto, who leaped overboard and swam to the ship. A boat was lowered, +and he was taken up unhurt, but dreadfully frightened. The canoes made +towards the shore, and it was observed that three men were lifted out of +them, either killed or badly wounded. + +In this instance the natives actually deserved the punishment they +received. Captain Cook called the headland off which this circumstance +occurred Cape Kidnappers. When Tayeto recovered from his fright he took +a fish to Tupia, that he might offer it to his Etua. Tupia praised him, +and ordered him to throw it into the sea. + +Captain Cook having now stood to the southward for a considerable +distance without finding a harbour, tacked and stood to the northward, +in hope of being more successful in that direction. The ship was off a +high bluff headland with yellowish cliffs, which was accordingly called +Cape Turnagain. Soon afterwards two chiefs and their three attendants +paddled off, and willingly came on board. One of the chiefs had a very +pleasing and honest expression of countenance. Though they would not +eat, they seemed disposed to be very friendly, so much so that they +insisted on remaining on board all night. The next morning they were +somewhat surprised at finding themselves so far from the shore, but went +away without hesitation. As the ship sailed along, several canoes came +off to her, a few at a time. In one were two old chiefs, who, with many +expressions of goodwill, invited the strangers on shore. The surf +prevented their going, but in the evening, the wind moderating, Captain +Cook, with Mr Banks and Dr Solander, landed, and were received in a +most friendly manner. The natives took care not to appear in large +bodies, the members of two or three families only keeping together. +These little companies sat on the ground, and by signs invited their +visitors to draw near. These indications of a friendly disposition +determined the commander to fill his casks with water at this place. + +The next morning, while this operation was going forward, Mr Banks and +Dr Solander walked along the shore of the bay by themselves without +anxiety, and collected numerous plants. They visited several huts, and +found the inhabitants at dinner, their food consisting, at this time of +the year, of fish and the root of a large fern. The roots were prepared +by scorching them over a fire, and then beating them till the charred +bark fell off. The remainder was a clammy, soft substance, not +unpleasant to the taste, but mixed with three times its bulk of fibres, +which could not be swallowed. This part was spat out into baskets ready +at hand for its reception. No animals were seen, except some ugly +little dogs. Carefully cultivated and closely fenced plantations of +sweet potatoes and other vegetables were seen. The women were plain, +and had their faces painted with red ochre and oil; the men generally +did not follow the latter custom, but one man was observed who had a +piece of yellow ochre in his hand, with which he renewed the coloured +decorations on his person whenever he supposed them to be deficient. +Mr Banks and others, having remained on shore after the boats had gone +off with the casks, were brought on board by the natives in one of their +canoes. Indeed, all the intercourse with the people in this place was +carried on in the most friendly manner. + +At the watering-place the natives entertained their visitors with a +war-song, in which the women joined, with horrid distortions of +countenance, rolling their eyes, thrusting out their tongues and heaving +deep sighs, all keeping perfect time. A canoe was seen here, +sixty-eight feet and a half long, five broad, and three feet and a half +deep; she had a sharp bottom, consisting of three trunks of trees +hollowed; the side planks were sixty-two feet long in one piece, carved +in bas-relief; the head being still more richly carved. A large +unfinished house was also visited; the side ports were carved in a +masterly style, though with whimsical taste. The bay was called by the +natives Tolaga. + +Wood and water, and an abundance of wild celery, which proved an +excellent anti-scorbutic, having been got on board, the Endeavour +weighed and stood to the north. The wood they had cut was like the +English maple; and a cabbage-tree was met with and cut down for the sake +of the cabbage, or the succulent soft stem, so-called by the voyagers +from its taste when boiled. The country abounded with plants, and the +woods with birds in an endless variety, and exquisitely beautiful. +After rounding each cape, numerous villages were seen, and much +cultivated ground. Some way on an immense canoe with sixteen paddles on +each side, and carrying sixty armed men, gave chase to the ship. To +prevent an attack, a round shot was fired near them, when they paddled +off; the headland near at hand was therefore called Cape Runaway. After +this, a large number of canoes came off to trade; but the natives were +disposed to cheat. At length some linen hanging over the bows to dry +was carried off by a man, who, though fired at, deliberately packed it +up and made off with it. As the natives continued to insult the +English, a shot was fired close to them, which went bounding over the +water far ahead, and made them paddle away at great speed. + +Several villages were seen larger than any before observed, built on +eminences near the sea, and fortified on the land side by a bank and +ditch, with a high paling within it, carried all round; some of them had +also outworks. They were supposed to be the fortified villages called +by the natives Pahs or Hippahs. There seems to have been much doubt in +the minds of the officers of the Endeavour as to whether the land on +which they were now coasting was an island or part of a vast continent. +The captain seems to have held to the former opinion, his officers to +the latter. + +The ship was now near a cluster of islands to which the names of the +Mayor and the Court of Aldermen were given. Farther on more villages +were in sight, with some hundreds of large canoes drawn up on the beach +under them. The whole country from Cape Turnagain, thus far, was said +to be under the rule of a single chief, called Teratu. A large inlet +was next entered, and here the ship anchored. Several canoes of a less +ornamental description came alongside, and tried to steal the buoy of +the anchor. Three times during the night they repeated the attempt, +hoping, it seemed, to catch the crew asleep. Again they came at +daylight, and sang a war-song, preparatory to an attack. Tupia, +however, expostulated with them, and explained so successfully that they +would certainly be the sufferers in case of a skirmish, that instead of +fighting, they began to trade. Here, again, a native made off with two +pieces of cloth, both of which he had got for one weapon, which he +refused to deliver up. A musket-ball was fired through his canoe; but +he would not return. It was curious that the people in the other canoes +paid no attention to him, though he was bleeding, but continued to trade +as if nothing had happened. Soon afterwards, indeed, the same trick was +played by others. Two muskets were fired, the bullets going through the +sides of the canoe between wind and water. This only made the savages +pull off more rapidly. As the commander intended to remain in this +place for some days, to observe the transit of Mercury, it was necessary +to make the natives understand the superiority of the English; and a +round shot was therefore fired over their heads. + +All the natives, however, were not alike dishonest. One chief, in +particular, had behaved with great propriety during the day, neither +attempting to cheat nor showing any fear of the English. He came off +the next morning, and soon established friendly relations with them. He +said that the people were generally convinced of their power, and would, +he hoped, behave properly in future. His name was Toiava. + +An officer, with the marines and a party of men, was sent on shore to +cut wood. No houses were seen; but there were a number of people, who +seemed to have slept under the bushes. The state of warfare in which +the people existed was shown by Toiava when on board one day. Two +canoes were perceived coming in from the opposite side of the bay, when, +saying that they were enemies, he hastened off to the shore with all his +canoes. He soon returned, however, they not being the people he +supposed. A large number of mackerel were obtained here from the +natives, the sailors salting enough to last for a month. + +Fortunately, a fine day enabled the commander and Mr Green to obtain a +satisfactory observation of Mercury; and the name of Mercury Bay was, +therefore, given to the harbour on the shore of which it was taken. +While they were on shore another case, of cheating by a native occurred. +The thief and his companions having pulled off in their canoe, sang +their war-song, and shook their paddles in defiance. This so provoked +Mr Gore, the officer in charge, that he fired and killed the man, a +circumstance for which Captain Cook expressed his deep regret. Though +at first alarmed, the natives on shore, on inquiring into the matter, +seemed to think that the man had received his deserts, and the friendly +intercourse begun between them and the English was not further +interrupted. + +A little before sunset, the natives retired to eat their supper, +consisting of birds, fish, and lobsters. Some were roasted, stuck on +sticks inclined towards the fire; others were baked in ovens on the +ground, in the way practised by the people of Otaheite. Among the +natives was a woman mourning for the death of a relative. She sat on +the ground by herself, and cut herself all over with pieces of shell +till she was covered with blood, singing in a mournful voice, at the +same time, a song the meaning of which Tupia could not understand. + +The shore abounded with clams, cockles, and, in some places, +rock-oysters. Numerous wild-fowl also were seen, and several were shot. +The boats rowed up a river at the head of the bay for four or five +miles, and near it a deserted fort of considerable strength was visited. +Several beds of oysters were also discovered, dry at half-ebb, and a +boat being sent to fetch some, returned completely laden, so that the +ship's company had a regular feast of them. Fish, also in abundance, +were brought off by the natives. On the north side of the bay, a pah, +small, but very strong and beautifully situated, was visited. It stood +on the top of a rock detached from the mainland, surrounded at +high-water. The centre part was perforated by an arch sixty feet in +height, and of considerable width. The only way of reaching the top was +by a very narrow winding path. Here there was room only for four or +five huts. Farther on was a much larger fortified village, the +inhabitants of which, to the number of a hundred, came out and invited +the strangers to visit them, and seemed highly pleased when their +invitation was accepted. + +This pah, or fort, was examined with much interest, and afterwards +minutely described by the English visitors. It seemed, indeed, a place +which, if resolutely defended, was capable of holding out against any +number of assailants famished only with such arms as were seen in the +hands of the natives. It was curious that men capable of constructing +so elaborate a fortification should have invented simply such weapons as +lances, small and large battle-axes, and clubs; for not a sling nor a +bow was seen among them, nor any other weapon but those mentioned. When +stones were used they were thrown by the hand. + +The Endeavour, having taken an ample supply of celery on board, sailed +from Mercury Bay. The most successful generals of ancient and modern +times were able to take advantage of their greatest victories by having +paid careful attention to their commissariat; and Cook, for the same +reason, could prolong his researches for a greater length of time than +any previous navigator, and keep his crew in tolerable health, more +especially preserve them from that fearful scourge of seamen, the +scurvy. Of course he was greatly indebted to the experienced botanists +on board, who were able to discover any anti-scorbutic plants grown on +the shores they visited. Probably the lives of thousands of seamen +might have been saved had the commanders been acquainted with the wild +plants that the loving God has everywhere provided for the use of His +creatures, capable of preventing that dire complaint. + +About fifty miles to the north of Mercury Bay, the natives came off and +threw stones at the ship, nor would they listen to the expostulations +and advice of Tupia, till a musket-ball was sent through the bottom of +one of their canoes, when they were convinced of the truth of his +account respecting the power of the strangers. + +On the 19th a large inlet was entered, in which the ship brought up. +Immediately natives came off, who said that they had heard of the +strangers from Toiava. One young man introduced himself as his +grandson, and received several presents. They also addressed Tupia by +name, showing that they had heard of the English from their friends. +The commander and his usual companions proceeded in the boats nine miles +up the inlet, which they discovered terminated in a river. This they +entered with the flood, and found fresh water three miles from the +mouth. Here they saw a large village on a sand-bank entirely surrounded +by mud, probably considered a sufficient protection from their enemies. +They were particularly struck by the great size of the pine trees which +grew on the banks. One measured nineteen feet eight inches in girth at +the height of six feet from the ground. From the root to the first +branch it was eighty-nine feet, and as straight as an arrow, tapering +very little in proportion to its height. It probably contained, by the +captain's computation, three hundred and sixty-six cubic feet of solid +timber. Others still larger were seen. A small one was cut down, and +found to be similar to the pitch pine, too heavy for masts, but the +carpenter was of opinion that, by tapping, the wood would be lightened, +and that then the trees would make the finest masts in the world. These +trees were the celebrated Kauri pine, from which a valuable gum is +extracted. It also makes very fine planking. This tree, the flax +plant, and the gigantic fern are among the characteristic productions of +New Zealand. + +The name of the Thames was given to the river explored. The natives in +the neighbourhood behaved in the most friendly manner; but while the +commander and Dr Solander were on shore, and Mr Banks with Tupia and +some of the natives were below, a lad took possession of a half-minute +glass from the binnacle. Mr Hicks, who was commanding officer, ordered +the lad to be triced up and a dozen lashes given to him. His countrymen +interfered, and called for their arms from the canoes alongside. In +vain Mr Banks, hearing the noise, and coming on deck, expostulated with +the lieutenant. Tupia at length pacified the natives by explaining what +was to happen, and allowed the punishment to proceed. As soon as it was +over, an old man, supposed to be the father of the boy, gave him a +beating and sent him into the canoe; but the confidence of the natives +was gone, and though they promised to come back, no more was seen of +them. + +The natives on most occasions were ready to steal and cheat, whenever +they thought they could do so with impunity. This occurred nearly every +day as the Endeavour proceeded along the coast. In one day, at +different times, nearly five hundred natives were on board or alongside, +showing that the country was very populous. One of these was making off +with an article of which he had possessed himself without giving +anything in return, when the midshipman to whom it belonged hove a lead +with a hook secured to it at the end of a line, with such aim that the +hook caught the thief, but broke off. While at anchor in another part +of this bay, which is known as the Bay of Islands, the commander gave a +piece of cloth to an old chief, one of several hundred natives crowding +round the ship. Notwithstanding this, some of them tried to steal the +buoy, and not till one of them was hit by a musket-ball would they give +it up. After this, the commander, with Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and two +boats' crews, landed in a little cove. They had not been there long, +before they saw nearly three hundred people rushing towards them from +behind the heads of the cove, and over the top of the hill. Some of the +savages rushed to the boats to seize them, and others, led by a chief, +advanced towards the English. The commander, Mr Banks, and two of the +man fired with small shot. The natives, though at first they fell back, +soon again rallied and advanced. On this Dr Solander fired again, and +hit the chief, who, with the rest, ran off. The natives still continued +in a body, and, as seen from the ship, appeared very numerous. A few +round shot fired over their heads dispersed them. Happily not a single +life was lost, and only two men were slightly wounded. As it happened, +the old chief to whom the cloth had been given in the morning had, with +some of his family, concealed himself in a cave. While the party were +collecting celery he was discovered, and was soon put at his ease. He +said that one of the men who had been hit with small shot was his +brother, and inquired anxiously whether he would die. He was assured +that he would not; and a bullet and small shot being shown to him, he +was told that those who were hit with the first would die, but that the +wounds made by the last were seldom mortal. He and his companions now +came and sat down by the English, who gave them a few trifles. + +Several days were passed in the Bay of Islands, and a friendly +intercourse was maintained during the remainder of the time with the +natives. On going out of it the ship grazed a rock to windward of her +with great violence, but received no injury. This part of the country +was evidently very densely inhabited; and the people seemed to live on +friendly terms with each other, though no head or leading chief was +heard of. Fishing seemed to be one of their principal occupations, and +nets of great length were seen--one of not less than from three to four +hundred fathoms. Their towns were all fortified. Farther on, while +becalmed, some people who came off told the voyagers that at the +distance of three days' rowing the land would take a sharp turn to the +south, and extend no more to the west. It was conjectured, therefore, +that this headland was one seen by Tasman, and called by him Cape Maria +Van Diemen; and an eager lookout was kept for the important headland. + +At six in the morning on December 16 land was seen from the mast-head, +which proved to be North Cape. It lies in latitude 34 degrees 22 +minutes South, and longitude 186 degrees 55 minutes West. The isthmus +which joins this head to the mainland is low, which gives it the +appearance of an island. On the cape a hippah, or village, was seen, +with several inhabitants. Soon after this, when off Cape Maria Van +Diemen, the Endeavour met with a gale which, though it was in the middle +of the summer of that hemisphere, Captain Cook says, for its strength, +and the length of time it lasted, was such as he had scarcely ever been +in before. The ship was three weeks getting ten leagues to the +westward, and five weeks in getting fifty leagues. During the gale the +ship was a considerable distance from the land, or it is highly +probable, he says, they would not have returned to relate their +adventures. + +It is not necessary to mention the various courses run for several days, +as no communication was held with the shore. At length a lofty peak was +seen towering above the clouds, and covered with snow, to which the name +of Mount Egmont was given. It was surrounded by a flat country of a +pleasant appearance, being clothed with verdure and wood. Near it a bay +was entered, in a safe and convenient cove of which the ship anchored. +Some canoes at once paddled off, and much against the wishes of his +people, an old chief from one of them came on board. He was received +with all possible friendship, and after some time was dismissed, with +many expressions of kindness, to his companions. This treatment had a +beneficial effect, though some of the natives showed an inclination to +try how far they might go with the strangers. On one occasion they +pursued the long-boat as it was going on shore with casks; but some +small shot quickly made them desist. + +The bay where they were at anchor was found to be about fifteen miles +south of one visited by Tasman, though none of the people among whom +Tupia made inquiries had any tradition of his having been on the coast. +The commander, with Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and others, on their way +one day to visit a cove two miles off, saw the body of a woman floating, +having apparently been dead for some days. Immediately on landing they +found a family who seemed greatly alarmed at their approach, and ran +away. In a short time, however, they were induced to return, and +confidence being established, became very communicative. The body of +the woman was that of a relation whom they had buried at sea fastened to +a stone, from which they supposed it had broken. The family were +dressing some provisions, and as the gentlemen cast their eyes into one +of the baskets which stood near, two bones were perceived, which, upon +nearer examination, were found to be those of a human body. The +natives, on being questioned by Tupia, acknowledged, without the +slightest hesitation, that they were the bones of a man whom they had +eaten; that a canoe belonging to their enemies had come into the bay +five days before; that seven persons in her had been killed, and that +this man was one of them. On Tupia asking why they did not eat the body +of the woman, they replied that she was a relation, and that they only +eat the bodies of their enemies killed in battle. One of the natives +took hold of his own forearm, and intimated that the bone Mr Banks held +in his hand had belonged to that part of the human body; he also bit and +gnawed the bone which Mr Banks had taken, drawing it through his mouth, +and showing by signs that it had afforded a delicious repast. A woman +of this family of cannibals had her arms, legs, and thighs frightfully +cut, in token of her grief for the loss of her husband, who had lately +been killed and eaten by their enemies. + +Mr Banks and Dr Solander were several times on shore, but their walks +were much circumscribed by climbing plants of luxuriant growth, which +completely filled up the spaces between the trees, so as to render the +woods impassable. Preparations had been made for erecting a durable +memorial of the Endeavour's visit, and their old friend promised that it +should never be removed. Presents of coins and spike-nails, with the +king's broad arrow on them, were given to the natives, and two posts, of +which the memorial was to be constructed, were taken to the highest part +of the island near which the ship lay. The Union-Jack was then hoisted, +and formal possession was taken of the country in the name of His +Majesty King George the Third; the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound being +given to the inlet. A bottle of wine was then drunk to Her Majesty's +health, and the empty bottle given to the old man, who seemed highly +delighted with it. + +The Endeavour left the sound on February 6, and soon after, during a +calm, was very nearly driven on shore by the strong current setting +through the straits between the northern and middle island, now known as +Cook's Straits. Over the land was seen a mountain of stupendous height, +covered with snow. Passing through the straits, the Endeavour steered +north again, and continued on till, the weather clearing, Cape Turnagain +was distinctly seen. Captain Cook on this asked his officers whether +they were satisfied that Eaheinomauwe was an island. They replying in +the affirmative, the Endeavour hauled her wind and stood to the +eastward. Eaheinoniauwe was the name given by the natives to the +northern island, Poenammoo to the southern, or rather, as it is now +called, the middle island. + +The Endeavour was now steered down the eastern coast of the last-named +portion of New Zealand. Some lofty mountains were seen, partially +covered with snow, and inferior in height to Mount Egmont. During a +calm, when close in shore, Mr Banks went out in a small boat for the +purpose of shooting. While he was away four double canoes were seen to +put off from the shore, and to pull towards him. Captain Cook trembled +for his friend's safety, for Mr Banks could not see the signals made to +hasten his return. At length he noticed the natives, and his boat's +head was turned towards the ship. The natives also approached. He, +however, got on board before them, thankful for his escape. Probably, +indeed, their attention had been so engrossed with the ship that they +had not seen him. When they came about a stone's throw off, they +stopped and gazed at the ship with vacant astonishment; but even Tupia's +eloquence could not induce them to come on board. After surveying the +ship, they made towards the shore, but it was dark before they could +have reached it. This was the only sight Captain Cook had of the +inhabitants of the middle island, or _Tovy Poenammoo_. + +An island about twenty-four leagues in circumference, and five leagues +from the main, was discovered, to which the name of Banks's Island was +given. Some persons on board asserting that they saw land to the +south-east, the commander, though believing that they were mistaken, +steered in that direction; but no land being discovered, the ship wore, +and was steered east-south-east. Tovy Poenammoo was found to be very +much larger than Captain Cook expected to find it, from the description +of the natives in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Heavy gales and rough seas +were encountered, and on one occasion, at dawn, rocks were seen close +under the ship's bows, she having in the night passed close to another +dangerous reef, some leagues from the main. The land discovered +appeared green and well wooded, but destitute of inhabitants. Several +whales and seals were observed, whereas none had been seen off the north +island. At length, on March 5, the South Cape was rounded. At the time +Captain Cook was doubtful whether it was part of the large island or a +separate island, though he marked it in his chart as the former. +Nothing of importance occurred during the passage back to the entrance +of Cook's Straits, on the northern shore of which, in a bay called +Admiralty, the Endeavour again anchored, that she might fill up with +wood and water. This was accomplished by March 31, 1770, when a course +was shaped by which it was hoped the eastern coast of New Holland would +be reached. It was intended, after visiting that coast, to return home +by the East Indies and the Cape of Good Hope. Captain Cook himself had +wished to return by Cape Horn, with the view of settling the question of +a great southern continent; but the ship was deemed unfit to brave the +tempests to be expected in a high southern latitude in the most +inclement season of the year. The name of Cape Farewell was given to +the last point of land seen as the Endeavour quitted the coast of New +Zealand. The manners and customs of the inhabitants, as well as the +features of New Zealand, are now almost as well-known as those of any +country in Europe, and we are able to judge of the extraordinary +accuracy of all Captain Cook's descriptions whenever he had an +opportunity of observing them. + +Cape Farewell was left on March 31, and the Endeavour sailed westward. +Nine days afterwards a tropical bird was seen, and on the 15th the +voyagers caught sight of an egg-bird and a gannet; and as these birds +never fly far from land, the lead was constantly heaved through the +night. No bottom, however, was found; and it was not till six o'clock +on the morning of April 19 that land was seen by Mr Hicks, the first +lieutenant. This land proved to be part of the vast country of New +Holland, since better known as Australia. The coast first seen was that +of New South Wales. + +The Endeavour now coasted along about three leagues from the shore, and +as the weather was clear, a pleasant landscape presented itself before +the eyes of the explorers. The land was of moderate elevation, +diversified by hills and valleys, ridges and plains. Here and there +were open spaces clothed with verdure, but in general the country was +covered with timber. Smoke was in several places seen, showing that the +country was inhabited. + +Several days were spent--the Endeavour coasting along the shore to the +northward; but on account of a northerly wind the voyagers were seldom +near enough to remark the features of the country. At last a bay was +discovered which seemed to be well sheltered from all winds, and Captain +Cook determined to anchor in it. Just before this several natives had +been seen on the shore, four of them carrying a canoe, but they did not +come off, and when the yawl, in which the commander attempted to land, +approached, they all ran away. So heavy a surf broke on the beach that +it was found impossible to go ashore. + +The pinnace was now sent ahead with the master to sound, while, the wind +being out, the ship beat into the bay. A smoke being seen on shore, the +glasses were directed towards it, when ten men were observed sitting +round a fire, which they presently left, and then ascended a slight +eminence, whence they could observe the proceedings of the English +visitors. As the pinnace pulled along the shore most of the natives +kept abreast of her. Some of them used threatening gestures, +brandishing their weapons: there were two especially, whose faces seemed +to have been dusted with a white powder, and their bodies painted with +broad streaks, also white, which, passing obliquely over their breasts +and backs, looked not unlike the cross-belts worn by soldiers. The same +kind of streaks were also drawn round their legs and thighs, like broad +garters. They were armed with long spears, and each of these men held +in his hand a weapon curved like a scimitar, and which appeared to be +about two feet and a half long. The Endeavour anchored two miles within +the bay, in six-fathom water, abreast of a small village consisting of +six or eight huts. On the two points on either side of the entrance a +few huts, and men, women, and children, were seen, as were four small +canoes, with a man in each engaged in fishing, so intent on their +occupation that they took no notice of the ship. An old woman also, +followed by three children, came out of a thicket, laden with fire-wood, +each of the children having its burden. When she reached the huts three +more children came out to meet her. She looked often at the ship, but +manifested no surprise, and went on with her occupation and kindled a +fire. Presently the men landed, hauled up their canoes, and began to +dress the fish, apparently unconcerned at the stranger ship within half +a mile of them. None of the savages had on a particle of clothing. It +was a curious scene, like that of a drama in which the actors take no +notice of the spectators. + +In this instance, however, the actors were not so indifferent as they at +first appeared; for when Captain Cook and several companions approached +the shore in one of the boats, although the greater number of the people +ran away, two men armed with lances came down on the rocks to dispute +the landing of the strangers. [Note 2.] It was not an inapt +representation on a small scale of the contest which, ere many years had +rolled by, was to begin on these shores between savagedom and +civilisation, when the latter would, with giant strides, sweep over and +subdue the land. The two brave savages kept flourishing their lances +and shouting in discordant tones, and Captain Cook, unwilling to injure +them, ordered his crew to lie on their oars while he tried to parley +with them. To show also his goodwill, he threw them nails, beads, and +other trifles, which they took up and seemed pleased to obtain. They +then waved their hands and seemed to invite their visitors on shore, but +as soon as the boat approached they hurried again to oppose a landing. +Captain Cook, as a last resource, fired a musket between them. On +hearing the report the youngest dropped a bundle of lances, but quickly +picked them up; while the eldest, as if in defiance, threw a stone at +the intruders. Upon this a musket with small shot was fired at his +legs, on which he scampered off to the huts. It was hoped that the +contest was now over, and accordingly the English stepped on the shore +of that vast territory which was to become the heritage of millions of +the Anglo-Saxon race. Still the savage was not subdued, and appeared +once more with a shield on his arm, and advancing, made one more +significant protest against the intrusion of the white man, by hurling a +spear into the very midst of the strangers. Happily, no one was hurt, +and a third musket loaded with small shot being fired at them, after +another spear had been thrown by one of the brave natives, they both +took to flight, and the English claimed to be, by right of conquest, the +lords of the soil. They might have pursued and overtaken the savages, +but Mr Banks suggested that the spears were possibly poisoned, and that +it would be imprudent to venture into the woods. + +On entering one of the huts some little children were seen partially +concealed, but they were not disturbed, and when the English went away, +some beads, ribbons, and pieces of cloth were left in the huts as +presents, which it was hoped would gain the goodwill of the natives. +Fifty spears, from six to fifteen feet long, found lying about, were +carried off. It was at first supposed that they were poisoned, but on +further examination it was found that they were used for spearing fish, +and that the green substance found sticking to them was seaweed. + +The next morning a stream was found at which the casks could be filled. +While this operation was going on, the natives came down and watched the +proceedings with wonder, but did not venture to approach the strangers, +though Mr Hicks advanced towards them with presents in his hands, +making every sign of friendship he could think of. That the bay was +full of fish, and capable of giving food to a large population, Captain +Cook had ample proof; for going with Mr Banks and Dr Solander to a +cove on the north side of the bay, in three or four hauls with the seine +they took above three hundredweight of fish. + +An expedition into the country was planned the same day by the +commander, Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and seven others, and from it a very +fair idea of the general face of the country was obtained. On visiting +the huts they found that the natives had not taken away the presents +that had been left for them; and others, therefore, of greater value, +were added. Presents were left also at all the huts which were passed, +in the hope of thus gaining the goodwill of the natives. The trees were +tall, straight, and without underwood, and at such a distance from each +other that the land might be cultivated without cutting down a tree. +The ground was covered with an abundance of grass, growing in tufts +close together, about as large as could well be grasped in the hand. +Although numerous huts were seen, the natives kept themselves carefully +concealed, though probably watching the strangers at a distance; a +glimpse only was caught of one man, who instantly ran away. A transient +view was got of an animal as big as a rabbit, and of the tracks of +another of the size of a wolf, clawed like a dog; traces of a third, +which fed on grass, and judged to be not less than a deer in size, were +also seen. The trees overhead abounded with birds of various kinds, +among which were many of exquisite beauty, particularly loriquets and +cockatoos, which flew in scores together. The trees, however, were not +of many species; among others was one which yielded a gum not unlike the +_sanguis draconis_. + +Many other excursions were made on shore, especially by Mr Banks and +Dr Solander, in search of plants, of which they found vast quantities; +and from this circumstance Captain Cook gave the place the name of +Botany Bay, a name the whole country commonly bore for more than half a +century afterwards. + +Every effort to establish a friendly intercourse with the natives +failed. They had undoubtedly watched, though unperceived, the effect of +the white men's weapons, and from awe and terror kept at a distance; +still, when they had an opportunity, they showed their hostility to the +strangers, and Mr Monkhouse narrowly escaped a spear thrown at him +while he was wandering in the woods. + +During the ship's stay in Botany Bay, Captain Cook had the English +colours hoisted every day on a flag-staff on shore, and caused the +ship's name, and the date of her visit, to be engraved on a tree near +the watering-place. + +At daybreak, on Tuesday, May 6, 1770, the Endeavour sailed from Botany +Bay, and at noon the same day, in latitude 33 degrees 50 minutes South, +she was abreast of a fine-looking harbour, to which Captain Cook gave +the name of Port Jackson. Northerly winds prevented the ship from +making much progress till, in latitude 32 degrees 40 minutes, another +harbour was seen, and called Port Stephens. The ship continued her +course to the north; smoke was frequently seen, and occasionally the +natives were observed. The land increased considerably in height as she +advanced, and in many places exhibited a pleasing variety of ridges, +hills, valleys, and plains, all clothed with wood. A wide, open bay was +passed in latitude 27 degrees 6 minutes, and called Moreton Bay. + +It had now become necessary to lay the ship ashore, and Captain Cook's +object was to find a place where this might be accomplished with safety. +Had he entered Port Jackson, he would have found one of the finest +harbours in the world for his purpose. He several times anchored while +proceeding along the coast, and landed to explore the country--the +natives, as before, running off and hiding themselves. Rockingham Bay +was passed and named, in latitude 17 degrees 59 minutes. Hitherto the +Endeavour had met with no misfortune; but as she was now to make +acquaintance with it, the point seen farthest to the north was called +Cape Tribulation. It lies in latitude 16 degrees 4 minutes South, and +longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes East. + +One beautiful moonlight night, as the ship was speeding on her course +with a fair wind, among the shoals of that coral sea, and while most of +the officers and crew were tranquilly asleep, she suddenly struck upon a +reef, and instantly roused every one on board to the horrors of +shipwreck on an inhospitable coast, where they might linger for years +without succour. However, the captain and his officers and crew were +equal to the emergency, and by throwing everything weighty overboard +that could be spared, the ship floated, but was making water rapidly. +Had the weather been at all stormy, no human power could have saved +their vessel. As it was, the fine weather continued long enough to +enable them to draw a sail over the leak. This served the purpose of +keeping her in sailing trim, until she was safely moored at the mouth of +a creek, which was named Endeavour River. This was on June 17, and they +remained there repairing the damage to the ship, as well as +circumstances permitted, until August 4. + +Although the Endeavour was now out of danger, her captain had still +abundant cause for anxiety on another account: in spite of all his care, +the fearful malady of scurvy had gained, and was still gaining ground +among the ship's company. Poor Tupia, who all his life had been +accustomed to fresh fruit and vegetables, was among the chief sufferers, +and symptoms were showing themselves which proved that the malignant +disease had already made rapid progress. Mr Green, the astronomer, was +also, among many others, stricken and disabled. As soon as possible, +therefore, a tent was put up on shore for the reception of the sick, and +recourse was had to nets, for providing fresh fish for the invalids. + +The ground in the immediate neighbourhood of the river was either +swampy, sandy, or stony. Mr Banks, who went on shore with his gun, saw +great quantities of pigeons and crows: of the former, which were very +beautiful, he shot several. He also saw some deserted human +habitations, but no natives. + +Four guns having been got up from the hold, were mounted on the +quarter-deck of the ship, and the heavy stores and powder were landed, +that her damages might be examined. It was, indeed, both wonderful and +providential that she had escaped destruction; for not only had the +sharp rock torn off the planking and worked its way into the timbers, +but one point had cut a hole right through the bottom, and, breaking +off, had happily remained fixed. Had it fallen out, no human power +could have prevented the ship from foundering. Besides the leak, which +was on the starboard side, the ship had sustained very extensive injury +on the larboard. The sheathing from the bow on that side was torn off, +and a great part of the false keel was gone. The carpenters at once +commenced their work; and the forge was set up, that the smiths might +make bolts and nails. + +While this was going on, some of the people were sent on shore to shoot +pigeons for the sick, and on their return they reported that they had +found a stream of fresh water, and had seen several native huts, and an +animal as large as a greyhound, of slender form, mouse-coloured, and +very swift. The next day Captain Cook himself saw the same animal; it +had a long tail, and leaped liked a hare or deer, and the prints of its +feet were like those of a goat. For some time afterwards nothing more +was seen of the animal, which Mr Banks, the naturalist, considered must +be of some hitherto unknown species; so, indeed, it was, for it had no +congeners in any quarter of the globe previously visited; though now the +kangaroo is familiar enough to all readers of natural history, and it +forms part of the arms of the colony of New South Wales. + +Mr Banks likewise captured an Australian opossum, a female, with two +young ones. This class of animal was formerly supposed to be peculiar +to America, from whence its name is derived. Being nocturnal in their +habits, nothing is to be seen of them in the daytime, unless you can +catch a glimpse of one at noontide, sleeping soundly in the hollow of a +tree. When night comes, they leap from bough to bough with the greatest +animation, especially if it be moonlight. Some species, with thin +membranes between the fore and hind paws, can take a flying leap of, +sometimes, thirty yards from tree to tree; and hence they are called +flying squirrels, though perfectly distinct in their nature, and in some +of their habits, from that animal. + +The carpenters continued to work hard on the ship whenever the tide +permitted them. The position in which she was now placed, with her bow +on the bank, naturally threw all the water aft, and from this +circumstance the world was very nearly losing the results of Mr Banks's +labours. For greater security he had placed his collection of plants in +the bread-room, into which the water ran, and covered them completely. +By great care most of them were dried, but many were entirely spoilt. + +In consequence of the carpenters being able to work only at low tide, +the repairs of the ship proceeded very slowly. In the meantime, +however, the people benefited from being on shore, and every effort was +made to obtain fresh provisions, calculated to improve their health. +The commander himself went to superintend the hauling of the seine; but +this was attended with little success, for during one evening only +between twenty and thirty fish were caught. A root with leaves like +spinach, many cabbage-trees, and a wild plantain, were found, with a +fruit of a deep purple colour, of the size of a pippin, which improved +on keeping; Mr Banks also discovered a plant, called, in the West +Indies, Indian kale, which served for greens. These greens, with a +large supply of fish afterwards caught, afforded great relief to the +voyagers, who had so long been compelled to live on salt meat. Their +fresh provisions were further varied by some large cockles, one of which +was of such size that it furnished an ample meal for two men. What was +of still greater value was the discovery of some fine turtle by the +master, three of which he caught when out surveying; though afterwards, +when sent out expressly to find more, he seems to have purposely +thwarted the wishes of his commander, who, indeed, had too much cause to +complain of the narrow-mindedness and ignorance of several of his +officers. Many other turtles were, however, afterwards caught, of a +species called the green turtle. + +Some time elapsed before one of the animals which had been so much the +subject of speculation was shot by Mr Gore. This was a young one, but +others were seen equal in size to sheep; the larger sort are, indeed, +much larger than sheep. The fore legs of this specimen were only eight +inches long, and the hind legs two-and-twenty; its mode of progress +being by a succession of hops and leaps, helped by its long tail, with +which also it balances itself in its progress. It is easy to imagine +the interest with which this curious animal, now seen for the first time +by civilised men, was examined by Mr Banks and his brother naturalists. +The next day their kangaroo (for so the animal was called by the +natives) was dressed for dinner, and proved most excellent. The +explorers might now have been said to fare sumptuously every day; for +they had an abundance of green turtle, fish, and vegetables of different +sorts, with an occasional kangaroo. It was indeed fortunate for the +crew of the Endeavour that the accident happened to her in this +latitude, instead of farther south, where, although the soil amply +rewards the labours of men, yet its spontaneous productions are very +inferior to those of the north. Kangaroos certainly would have been +found in abundance, and perhaps fish, but scarcely any vegetables fit +for the food of man. + +Favourably, however, as the navigators were situated for diet, their +position in other respects was unsatisfactory. This was ascertained by +the captain, who, with Mr Banks, one day started on a long walk +northward, partly to obtain a view of the country, but chiefly to take +note of appearances seaward. After traversing the country about eight +miles, they ascended a high hill, and were soon convinced that the +danger of their situation was at least equal to their apprehensions; for +in whatever direction they turned their eyes, they saw rocks and shoals +without number, and no passage out to sea but through the winding +channels between them, which could not be navigated without the last +degree of difficulty and peril. The reports of the master were equally +unsatisfactory with regard to the shoals and dangers off the mouth of +the harbour, and it seems surprising that the ship should have escaped +them on her passage up the coasts. Still, as she had got in, there was +no doubt that she might get out, could the right passage be found. They +had other causes for hope and thankfulness: the natives were not likely +to prove troublesome, the climate was healthy, and food abundant. + +Besides kangaroos, wild dogs were seen, which were supposed to be foxes +or wolves, as they partly resembled both these animals. With the +natives for some time no intercourse was opened. At last some appeared +on the opposite side of the river, very black, totally naked, and with +lances in their hands. The commander judiciously ordered his people to +take no notice of them, as the best means of drawing them near. This +plan succeeded so well that two of them came off in a canoe to within a +musket-shot, and talked very loudly. They were answered in the same +tone, and by degrees they drew nearer, when some cloth, nails, beads, +paper, and other trifles were thrown to them. Of these things, however, +they seemed to take no notice, but were highly pleased when a fish was +offered them. Some of them afterwards landed where Tupia and the rest +of the crew were sitting, and he prevailed on them to lay down their +arms, and to come forward without them. He then made signs that they +should sit down by him. With this they complied, and seemed to be under +no apprehension or constraint, although on more people going on shore +they expressed by their gestures some fear lest the newcomers should get +between them and their arms. More presents were made to them, to show +the goodwill of the strangers, and their desire to continue on friendly +terms. To prove this the Englishmen made signs that they were going to +dinner, and invited the blacks to eat with them; the latter, however, +declined the honour, and went away in their canoes. These men were of +the common stature, but their limbs were remarkably small; their hair +was black, but not woolly, some of them wearing it short cropped, others +lank and long, and others had it curled. Their colour was dark +chocolate, but the tint was owing somewhat to the dirt which covered +their skins. They had lively eyes, and their teeth were even and white. +The tones of their voices were soft and musical, and there was a +flexibility in their organs of speech which enabled them to repeat, with +great facility, many English words. + +The next day three of the same party of natives paid the strangers a +visit with a fourth, whom they introduced as Yaparico. This personage +was distinguished by having the bone of a bird, six inches long, thrust +through the cartilage of his nose. He seemed to prize this strange +ornament as much as a young dandy does his newly raised silken +moustache. On examination, all his companions were found to have holes +in their ears, as he also had, while on the upper part of their arms +they wore bracelets of plaited hair; thus evincing a taste for ornament, +although they had not a rag of any sort of clothing. The previous day +the only gift they seemed to prize was a fish which was offered them. +To-day they brought one in return. They were, however, excessively +jealous and suspicious, and in consequence of one of the gentlemen +examining their canoe, they at once jumped into her and paddled away. + +The following day three natives ventured down to Tupia's tent, and were +so well pleased with the way he received them that they went away and +brought two others, whom they introduced to him formally by name; a +ceremony they never omitted. Some fish were given to them, but after +eating a small portion, they threw the rest to Mr Banks's dog. They +could not be persuaded to go far from their canoe, which was about ten +feet long, fitted with an outrigger, and though very inferior, like +those of the Society Islands. They used paddles, and in shallow water +poled it along. + +One day, on the commander's return from an excursion on shore, he found +several natives on board. Of all the articles exhibited to them, +nothing seemed to have attracted their attention so much as the turtles, +of which there were no less than twelve on deck. Two days afterwards +they came again, bringing with them a greater number of lances than +before. These they placed in a tree, with a man and a boy to watch +them. It was evident that their object was to get one of the turtles. +They asked for one by signs, and being refused, appealed to everybody +who appeared to them to have any authority. Then seizing one, they +attempted to drag it overboard. On its being taken from them, they +jumped into their canoe in a rage, and went on shore. Here Mr Banks +and others followed them. Before they could be stopped they seized +their arms, and, snatching a brand from under a pitch-kettle, they +whirled it round with great dexterity and rapidity, and set fire to the +grass, which was six feet or more high, and dry as stubble. The fire +burnt with fearful rapidity. The woodwork of the smith's forge was +destroyed; it caught a sow and some young pigs, one of which was +scorched to death, and Mr Banks had great difficulty in saving his +tent, which had been set up for Tupia on shore. Happily most of the +stores, with the powder, had been taken back to the ship, or the +consequences might have been more serious. + +In another place the seamen were washing, and a quantity of linen and +the nets were spread out to dry. Here the natives, disregarding all +threats and entreaties, again set fire to the grass. By great exertions +the fire was extinguished before it had done much damage, but where it +had first been kindled it burnt with great fury, and spread into the +woods to a long distance. A gun loaded with small shot was now fired at +the natives, which put them to flight, one of them being wounded; and to +give them a lesson, a bullet was fired to pass near them, and this of +course hastened their retreat. It was thought that now they would give +no more trouble; but in a short time they came back, and Mr Banks and +others went out to meet them. + +An old man among the natives then advanced, having a lance in his hand +without a point. He came forward slowly, stopping several times, and +the English made signs to him that they wished to be friends. On this +he turned round and addressed his companions, and they, having set up +their arms against a tree, also came forward in a friendly manner. The +lances which had been taken from them were then returned; this evidently +afforded them great satisfaction, and the reconciliation was considered +complete. + +Several strangers who were among the party were now introduced by name; +and on receiving some presents they went away highly contented. + +The next day no natives appeared, but the hills all round, for many +miles, were on fire, the effects of which by night were very striking. +Had the voyagers been compelled by circumstances to remain on that +coast, the result of these fires would have been serious, as the +conflagration would have driven the kangaroos and the feathered tribes +to a distance, and thus deprived the crew of the Endeavour of some of +their principal means of support. But the ship was now ready for sea, +though the master had been unable to find any channel to the northward +by which an escape could be made from among the coral reefs which hemmed +her in. + +It was necessary, however, to make the attempt without delay, as +provisions and stores were running short, and the proper time for +navigating the Indian seas was passing by. They were doomed to have +their patience yet further tried, for when all was ready heavy gales +prevented the ship from putting to sea. + +On July 29 the weather moderated, the wind came off the land, and +everything appeared favourable for sailing, when it was found that there +was not sufficient water on the bar for the ship to pass over it. For +several days more the ship was detained by the unfavourable state of the +weather: the detention would have been of still greater consequence had +not the boats sent out to catch fish and turtle been tolerably +successful. At length, on August 4, Captain Cook had the satisfaction +of sailing out of Endeavour Harbour. The ship was surrounded by shoals, +and he was yet in doubt whether he should beat back to the southward, or +seek a passage to the north or east. He had now a most anxious time, +for it was clear that there was no way to sea except through the +labyrinth of shoals amid which the ship lay. The navigation of a ship +among coral rocks is at all times dangerous, for the lead gives no +notice of their vicinity, their sides rising up like walls from almost +unfathomable depths. + +Night now approaching, the Endeavour anchored, when soon afterwards it +came on to blow very hard, and at eleven she began to drive. More cable +was veered away, and this brought her up; but in the morning, it coming +on to blow harder, she drove again. All the appliances of seamanship +were put into operation, but still she drove, when topgallant masts were +got down, and yards and topmasts struck; and now, at length, she rode +securely. + +In this position she continued till the 10th, when, Captain Cook having +resolved to search for a passage close in shore to the northward, she +got under way, and stood in that direction with the boats exploring +ahead. Nothing but the greatest caution, perseverance, and first-rate +seamanship could have taken the Endeavour free of the dangers which +surrounded her. Hour after hour the sagacious commander was at the +mast-head, or away in a boat searching for a passage, while the rest of +the boats were employed in a similar service. At length a passage was +discovered, and with the boats piloting ahead, the Endeavour stood +through it. + +A long rolling swell convinced the voyagers that they had no rocks or +shoals to fear, but at the same time proved to them that they must not +place the same confidence in their ship as before she had struck; for +the seas she now encountered so widened the leaks that they admitted no +less than nine inches of water an hour, which, considering the state of +the pumps and the navigation before them, was a matter of serious +consideration. + +The great object Captain Cook had now in view was to ascertain whether +the coast of New Holland, along which he was sailing, was or was not +united to that of New Guinea. He was afraid that, if he stood on long +to the north, he might overshoot the passage, should one exist. At six +in the evening, therefore, he brought the ship to with her head to the +north-east, no land being in sight. The next morning sail was made, and +land seen; and as the day advanced a reef appeared over which the sea +broke heavily, extending from north to south as far as the eye could +reach, with an occasional break between the ship and the land. The wind +was then east-south-east; but scarcely had the sails been trimmed to +haul off it than the wind shifted to east-by-north, which made it very +doubtful whether the ship could clear the reef. The lead was kept going +all night while the ship stood to the northward, but no bottom was +found, yet at four o'clock the roaring of the surf was distinctly heard, +and at break of day it was seen foaming to a vast height at not more +than a mile off. The seas, too, which rolled in on the reef rapidly +carried the ship towards it. The wind fell to a dead calm, and the +depth made it impossible to anchor. The only prospect of saving the +ship was by rowing; but the pinnace was under repair and useless: the +long-boat and yawl were, however, sent ahead to tow, and sweeps were got +out. + +Still these efforts could only delay the destruction which seemed +inevitable. The ship continued to drive on towards the fatal reef; she +was within a hundred yards of it, and the same billow which washed her +side broke on the reef to a tremendous height the very next time it +rose. The carpenters had been working at the pinnace, and she was now +lowered, but even with her assistance the Endeavour drove nearer and +still nearer to the reef. At the very moment that her doom seemed fixed +a light air sprang up, and, with the help of the boats, gave her once +more head-way. Scarcely, however, had ten minutes passed before the +wind again dropped, and the ship was driven back towards the roaring +breakers. Again the gentle breeze returned, and lasted another ten +minutes. During this time an opening had been discovered, and the ship +was towed towards it, but so strong a current set through it that she +was driven fully a quarter of a mile away from the reef. Aided by the +boats, the ebb tide carried her nearly two miles away by noon. When the +flood made, however, she was once more carried back towards the reef; +but in the meantime the first lieutenant had discovered a passage, and a +light breeze springing up, it was resolved to attempt it. The boats +continued towing ahead; the raging, roaring sea leaped up on either +side; the breeze filled the sails; the tide swept rapidly onward; and in +a short time the Endeavour was within the reef, safe from present +danger, and anchored in nineteen-fathom water. + +Captain Cook now resolved to keep the land close on board, in spite of +all dangers, for fear of missing the channel. Numerous islands and +headlands were passed and named, and rocks and reefs were escaped, and +at length perseverance and sagacity were rewarded by the discovery of +York Cape, the northern promontory of the country, and the southern side +of Torres Straits, through which the Endeavour triumphantly passed. + +As Captain Cook was now about to leave the eastern coast of New Holland, +which he had followed up from latitude 38 degrees, and which he was +confident no European had ever before seen, he landed on an island, +which he named Possession Island, and once more took formal possession +of the whole eastern coast of the mainland, in right of His Majesty King +George the Third. He gave to the country, with all its bays, rivers, +and islands, the name of New South Wales. Three volleys of small arms +were then fired, and these were answered by the same number from the +ship. Ten natives were seen on the island when this ceremony was +performed, and seemed astounded, as they very well might be. + +They were seen to be armed with spears; one of them had also a bow and a +bundle of arrows, which weapons had not before been seen. Two of them +had large ornaments of mother-of-pearl hanging round their necks. It +was expected that when the boats approached they would have made a show +of opposing a landing, but instead of that, they walked leisurely away. +They and their descendants have never been disturbed in their possession +of the island, and at the present day it is exactly in the state it was +when Cook visited it. + +Some time was occupied in the intricate navigation of the straits, and +the Endeavour then steered north, along the south-western coast of New +Guinea, but the water being shallow, at such a distance from the shore +that it could scarcely be seen from the ship. Still, as the commander +wished to ascertain the character of the country and the appearance of +the inhabitants, he steered in for the land till about three or four +miles from it, and in three-fathom water, when the ship came to an +anchor on September 3. + +The pinnace being hoisted out, Captain Cook, with Mr Banks and his +servants, Dr Solander and the boat's crew, in all twelve persons, well +armed, embarked in her and pulled directly for the shore. But the water +was so shallow that they could not reach it by about two hundred yards; +they therefore waded the rest of the way, and left two seamen to take +care of the boat. As yet no inhabitants had been seen, but when the +party landed they discovered the print of feet on the sand below +high-water mark, showing that people had lately been there. A thick +wood came down to within a hundred yards of the water. To avoid the +risk of being cut off by an ambush, the explorers proceeded cautiously, +skirting the wood till they came to a grove of cocoanut trees of small +growth which stood on the bank of a little stream. The trees were well +hung with fruit, and near them was a small hut, round which lay a number +of the freshly picked shells. Tempting as was the fruit, it was not +considered safe to climb the trees to obtain it; they were obliged, +therefore, to leave the grove without tasting a nut. Farther on they +met with a bread-fruit tree and some plantains, and had got about a +quarter of a mile from the boat when three blacks rushed out of the wood +with a hideous shout, and ran towards them. The foremost threw +something from his hand which burnt like gunpowder, and the other two +darted their lances at the strangers. As it was necessary to keep these +savages at a distance, they were fired at with small shot, but as this +did not make them retreat, and they threw another dart, some bullets +were discharged at them. The effect was to make them run; but it was +hoped that none of them were wounded. As Captain Cook says, he had no +desire to invade the country, either to gratify appetite or curiosity; +he judged it right and merciful to retreat at once, so as not to have to +destroy more of the ignorant savages. There was no time to lose, as the +men in the boat made signs that more natives were collecting. They had +succeeded in getting safely on board, when they saw nearly a hundred +savages, who shouted and threw fire-darts, several at a time, towards +them. On board ship it was supposed, from the effect produced, that the +natives had fire-arms, and even from the boat, had they not been so +near, the English would have fancied, from the flash and smoke, that the +blacks were firing musketry; the sound only was wanting. Some muskets +being fired over their heads, they walked leisurely away. + +In appearance these natives were very similar to those of New Holland, +though their skin was not quite so dark. They were all stark naked. +The land was low, and covered with a luxuriance of wood and herbage that +can scarcely be conceived. Some of the officers wished to send on shore +to cut down the cocoanut trees for the sake of the fruit, but the +commander refused to comply with their proposal, feeling that it would +be cruel and criminal to risk the lives of the natives, who would +certainly try to defend their property, merely for the sake of a +transient gratification. The boat was therefore hoisted in, and sail +made to the westward. + +The more interesting portion of Captain Cook's first voyage round the +world was now accomplished. He had successfully made the important +observation for which he was sent out; he had become intimately +acquainted with the inhabitants of Otaheite and several of the adjacent +islands, though, from the cunning of the people, he had failed to +discover that it was among the darkest of "the dark places of the +earth." He had shown that if there was a great southern continent it +must be in a very high latitude; he had proved that New Zealand +consisted of two great islands, and had cause to suspect the existence +of a third smaller one. He had sailed along the coast of New Holland, +and had made the acquaintance of its inhabitants and many of its animal +and vegetable productions. Though he had seen the coast of Tasmania, +and admired its beauty, he had not discovered that it was separated from +New Holland; but he had settled the point before in dispute--whether +that little-known land was or was not joined to New Guinea--by sailing +between them; and he had shown that the eastern coast of the +island-continent of Australia was fit to become the habitation of +civilised men. This great fact was, after all, the most important +result of the voyage. + +The condition of the Endeavour had, by this time, become very critical. +So battered were her lower timbers and planks, and so out of order were +her pumps, that a heavy sea might at any moment have sent her to the +bottom. It was absolutely necessary to find a harbour where she might +be hove down to undergo a complete refit. Under these circumstances the +commander of the expedition determined to go to Batavia, the capital of +the Dutch settlements in the island of Java, and at that time the centre +of commerce in those seas. He had, indeed, no option, for there was not +another port which he could hope to reach, where the ship would receive +the necessary repairs. He was not, indeed, ignorant of the +unhealthiness of the climate; but he hoped not to be detained there +long, and that his hardy crew would be able for a short time to +withstand its ill effects. + +The first island of any size which the Endeavour sighted after leaving +New Guinea was Timor, along the shore of which she coasted. +Notwithstanding the wishes of some of his officers, Captain Cook +declined to put in there, as he was anxious to reach Batavia without +delay. Between that island and Java, however, he fell in with a small +island, which at first he thought was a new discovery; but on steering +for it, and getting close in with the north side, houses, plantations, +and numerous flocks of sheep were seen. The temptation of obtaining +fresh meat and vegetables was not to be resisted, as there were many +sick on board; and accordingly Mr Gore was sent on shore to open a +communication with the natives. Two persons were seen riding on the +hills as if for their amusement, and often stopping to look at the ship. +This made the voyagers suspect that there must be a settlement of +Europeans on the island. Such was in fact the case. The Dutch East +India Company had a short time before taken possession of it, and sent a +resident to superintend their affairs, though the native rajah or chief +was still retained as the nominal ruler of the island. This island +proved to be Savu, at that time so little known that it was not to be +found on any of the charts on board. It is about thirty miles long, and +was then very thickly populated. + +In the evening the ship entered a bay before a large native town, over +which the Dutch colours were flying, and three guns were fired. The +native chief treated the strangers very courteously, and was evidently +ready to supply them with all they desired. They were informed that the +island abounded in buffaloes, sheep, horses, asses, goats, hogs, dogs, +cats, fowls, and pigeons, with most of the fruits of the tropics. The +resident, Mr Lange, however, though polite in his manners, very soon +showed that he was determined to make a gain of the visitors, and asked +the most exorbitant prices for all the provisions they required, besides +insisting that they should be paid for in gold. Fortunately, by a +well-timed present to an old man, the rajah's prime minister, his +services were engaged, and ultimately, through his means, all the +provisions which were required were procured at fair prices. The island +was divided into five provinces, with a rajah over each, who could +altogether muster upwards of seven thousand fighting men. All the +rajahs were said to live on friendly terms with each other, and the +inhabitants were described by Mr Lange as being particularly well +conducted and moral. Their religion was a kind of paganism, but of a +most liberal description, according to the account given by Mr Lange, +each man having the liberty to set up a god in his own house, and to +worship it after his own fashion. Although, in many instances, the +Dutch have been sadly unmindful of the spiritual as well as temporal +interests of the inhabitants of their colonial possessions, they had +sent to this island a Dutch officer, and a native woman who had been +brought up a Christian, charged with the education of the people, and +their instruction in the principles of Christianity. The Dutch had also +printed versions of the New Testament, a catechism, and several tracts +in the language of this and the neighbouring islands. The number of +Christians in the township of Seba alone was estimated at six hundred. +If the character given by Mr Lange of these islanders was correct, a +true Christian missionary would have found a prolific field open to him +among them. + +The Endeavour left the interesting island of Savu on September 21, 1770, +and made Java Head, at the west end of Java, on October 1. Poor Tupia +was very ill, and on the morning of the next day a boat was sent on +shore to procure some fresh fruit for him, and some grass for the +buffaloes, which, with sheep, pigs, and fowls, had recently been got on +board. On passing through the Straits of Sunda, the Endeavour was +boarded by the Dutch authorities, and various official inquiries were +made as to whence she had come, and the object of her voyage. These +being answered, she proceeded to Batavia. + +Captain Cook and his companions were received into port by the Dutch +governor with all the courtesy and kindness which could be expected. +Permission was given them to take up their abode in private residences, +although strangers were, as a rule, compelled to live at an hotel, under +the direct supervision of the authorities. Leave was also obtained to +heave down the ship in order to repair her damages, which were found on +inspection to be of a very serious nature. Indeed, in one place the +planking was so worn by the grinding on the rocks, that it did not +exceed the thickness of the sole of a man's shoe. Her frame in many +places was much shattered, and her pumps had become rotten and utterly +useless. + +Batavia had long had the reputation of being very unhealthy. The crew, +however, thought themselves thoroughly seasoned to all climates, and +their rosy countenances contrasted favourably with the pale faces of +those who had been even a few weeks at the place. All, indeed, with the +exception of Tupia, were in good health when they entered the port. +Even he revived at the strange sights which met his gaze as he entered, +for the first time, a civilised town. The houses, carriages, streets, +people, and a number of other novel objects had the effect on him of +fascination. Tayeto expressed his wonder and delight with still less +restraint, and danced along the street in a kind of ecstasy, examining +every object with a restless and eager curiosity. Tupia, remarking the +various dresses of the people of different countries, desired likewise +to put on his native costume. South Sea cloth was therefore sent for +from the ship, in which he immediately equipped himself. + +In the course of a few days, however, the effects of the climate began +to be felt. Poor Tupia, after the excitement caused by the novelties he +witnessed had subsided, experienced a reaction, and every day grew worse +and worse. Young Tayeto also was seized with an inflammation of the +lungs, and both Dr Solander and Mr Banks and his two servants were +taken seriously ill; indeed, almost all the people belonging to the +ship, on board or ashore, were sick, affected by the low swampy +situation of the place, and the numberless dirty canals which +intersected the town in all directions. + +Tents were then set up on shore, on Cooper's Island, for the ship's +company, and one was also pitched, by Mr Banks's desire, for Tupia, who +was anxious to escape from the close air of the town. Mr Banks +accompanied him, and remained with him for two days, till compelled by +his own illness (a regular tertian ague) to return to his lodgings. Mr +Monkhouse, the surgeon of the ship, was the first victim, and Dr +Solander could with difficulty crawl out of lied to attend his funeral, +which Mr Banks, from illness, was unable to do. On the 9th the poor +young boy Tayeto died, and Tupia, who loved him as a son, was so much +affected that he rapidly sank, and in two days followed him to the +grave. The lives of Mr Banks and Dr Solander were saved by their +removal to a healthy spot, some miles from the city. Altogether, seven +persons who had come in the ship were buried at Batavia; but many others +imbibed the seeds of disease, which, in a short time, proved fatal. + +Every possible assistance which Captain Cook required was given by the +Dutch governor, and on December 26th, 1770, having taken leave of him +and the principal people in the place, the voyagers set sail from +Batavia with a light breeze from south-west. At that time the number of +sick on board amounted to forty, and the rest of the ship's company were +in a very feeble condition. Every man had been ill except one, the +sail-maker, who was upwards of seventy years of age; he, however, was +among those who died on the passage to the Cape of Good Hope. + +After leaving Java, the Endeavour touched at Prince's Island, where she +took in water and fresh provisions. Shortly afterwards, dysenteries and +slow fevers appeared, and so violent were the symptoms that the ship was +a complete hospital, those who were able to move about being +insufficient to attend to the sick in their hammocks. Mr Banks was so +ill that his life was despaired of. Mr Green, Mr Sporing, Mr +Parkinson, the natural history painter, with Mr Monkhouse, and many +others, three-and-twenty persons in all, in addition to the seven buried +at Batavia, died before the ship reached the Cape of Good Hope. On +March 15 the Endeavour anchored in Table Bay, near the Cape of Good +Hope, where Captain Cook's first care was to provide a place for the +sick on shore. Here the greater number recovered, though some were +still ill when again taken on board. The country appeared to the +voyagers to be of a most sterile and forlorn character, and from the +accounts they received of the great distances from each other at which +the settlers were situated, they conjectured that such must be the +general nature of the country in the interior. Possibly the Dutch +settlers may not have been anxious to praise it to the English, as it +must have been obvious that it would prove a very important possession, +on account of our extensive commerce with the East Indies. + +Cape Town, at that time, consisted of about a thousand houses, neatly +built of brick, and white-washed on the outside, with thatched roofs. +The streets were broad and commodious, and through the principal street +ran a canal, with rows of oaks planted on either side, but, on account +of the slope of the ground, having numerous locks. The healthiness of +the climate of Cape Town contrasted favourably with that of Batavia, and +most of the sick rapidly recovered. The Dutch, at this time, appear to +have been living on friendly terms with all the neighbouring tribes of +natives, nor did Captain Cook seem to be aware that any of the +Hottentots were reduced to a state of slavery. He speaks only of their +being servants to the Dutch farmers, and taking care of their cattle. +Their only enemies were the bushmen, who never engaged in open warfare, +but stole the cattle of their neighbours at night, being armed with +lances and poisoned arrows. + +The Endeavour left Table Bay on April 14, and after calling at Robin +Island, a Dutch convict station, she proceeded with her voyage on the +25th. On that day she lost her master, whose health had been destroyed +by intemperate habits, and just before she reached England her first +lieutenant, Mr Hicks, died of consumption, from which he had been +suffering the greater part of the voyage; thus making up a long +catalogue of deaths since the ship left England. Mr Hicks was +succeeded by Mr Charles Clerke, who accompanied Captain Cook in his +subsequent voyages, and was highly esteemed by his commander, as well as +by all who sailed under him. + +On May 1 the Endeavour called off Saint Helena, then known only as the +summit of a submarine mountain, the water round it being of unfathomable +depth; although the island was of especial importance to Indiamen, as it +was the only British possession at which they could call on their +voyage. Here the Endeavour found the Portland man-of-war, commanded by +Captain Elliot, and twelve sail of Indiamen. In company with this +fleet, she stood out of the roads on May 4. But finding that his ship +sailed more heavily than the rest of the fleet, Captain Cook deposited +his logs, or ship's papers, and some of the journals of his officers, +with Captain Elliot; and on the 23rd not one of the ships was in sight. + +By this time the rigging and sails of the Endeavour had become so bad +that every day something was giving way. But, notwithstanding this, she +continued her course in safety, and on June 10 land, which proved to be +the Lizard Point, was seen by Nicholas Young, the same boy who first +sighted New Zealand. On the 12th the ship came to an anchor in the +Downs, and Captain Cook went on shore at Deal. + +The importance of the voyage just described can be better appreciated by +the present generation than it could have been by those who were alive +at the time of its conclusion. Captain Cook's own modest summary of it +is interesting. He says:-- + +"I sailed from Deptford July 30, 1768; from Plymouth August 26; touched +at Madeira, Rio de Janeiro, and Straits of Le Maire; and entered the +South Pacific Ocean, by Cape Horn, in January, the following year. + +"I endeavoured to make a direct course to Otaheite, and, in part, +succeeded; but I made no discovery till I got within the tropic, when I +fell in with Lagoon Island, Two Groups, Bird Island, Chain Island, and +on April 13 arrived at Otaheite, where I remained three months, during +which time the observations on the transit of Venus were made. + +"I then left it; discovered and visited the Society Isles, and Oheteroa; +thence proceeded to the south till I arrived in the latitude of 40 +degrees 22 minutes, longitude 147 degrees 29 minutes West; and on +October 6 fell in with the east side of New Zealand. I continued +exploring the coast of this country till March 1, 1770, when I quitted +it and proceeded to New Holland, and having surveyed the eastern coast +of that vast country, which part had not before been visited, I passed +between its northern extremity and New Guinea; landed on the latter, +touched at the island of Savu, thence to Batavia, the Cape of Good Hope, +Saint Helena, and arrived in England on July 12, 1771." + +On their arrival in London, Cook and his companions were received by the +scientific, as well as by the great and fashionable world, with the +attention and respect they so well-deserved; for no previous expedition +undertaken by England had been more generally successful. Cook was +promoted to the rank of Commander, his commission being dated August 29, +1771. He was also introduced to the King at Saint James's Palace, and +had the honour of presenting the journal of his voyage, illustrated by +maps and charts; while their Majesties the King and Queen, and numerous +people of high rank and attainments, took delight in listening to the +accounts given by the explorers of their adventures, and in examining +the specimens of manufactures and of natural history which they had +brought home. + +It was not, however, present _eclat_, nor the apparent magnitude of the +discoveries made, but their consequences, which rendered this voyage of +real importance. The ultimate result was the founding of two nations of +the Anglo-Saxon race; and whatever cause there may be to question, if +not to condemn, the manner in which possession has been obtained of +distant countries, and in which, also, their colonisation has been +effected, in almost every instance, and by almost all nations having the +power which civilisation gives, it must still be borne in mind that God +has overruled, and is overruling, these transactions for His own glory +and for the spiritual benefit of the world. He makes not only "the +wrath," but the ambition, and pride, and cupidity of man "to praise +Him;" and then the remainder "He restrains." And all circumstances are +made, in His infinite wisdom and power, to advance the spread of "the +glorious Gospel of the blessed God," and to usher in the kingdom of Him +whose right it is to reign, even of Christ Jesus, the Prince of peace, +the Lord of lords, and the King of kings. + +With regard to the discoveries made in the voyage just recorded, it is +almost superfluous to say that the countries then visited for the first +time by our countrymen have, after the lapse of a century, become +familiar as household words to the whole world. Australia, Tasmania, +and New Zealand have become component parts of the British empire, and +have already been made the home of hundreds of thousands of the crowded +population of the British Isles, as well as of emigrants from other +European countries; and these lands will, probably, before another +century has passed away, become centres, not only of civilisation, but +of evangelical truth and saving faith. And herein the Christian reader +will and must rejoice. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. The names of several places visited by Captain Cook have, in +course of time, been varied or altered. In this work, however, it has +been thought proper generally to adhere to the original nomenclature. + +Note 2. A tablet has been placed to mark the spot where Captain Cook +and his party landed, and may be seen in the engraving. + +Note 3. If this was so understood at the time, we must lament that our +countrymen should have consented to take part in what must be considered +as a profane farce. + + + +CHAPTER THREE. + +SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. JUNE 1772 TO JULY 1775. + +It had long been the opinion of geographers that a great southern +continent existed; and in 1738 a French expedition, under Monsieur +Lozier Bouvet, had been sent out in search of it. On January 1, 1739, +he got sight of land, in latitude 45 degrees 20 minutes, and longitude +25 degrees 47 minutes East from Teneriffe. It was, according to his +description, a lofty and steep cape, backed by mountains mostly covered +with snow, while the coast had so broad a fringe of ice that it was +impossible to approach it near enough to make any thorough examination. +In remembrance of the day of discovery, the cape, which was supposed to +be part of the southern continent, was called _Cape de la Circoncision_. + +It had been supposed, before the return of Cook from his first voyage, +that New Zealand, New Holland, and New Guinea formed part of the great +southern land, which was generally denominated Terra Australis +Incognita. + +Cook, indeed, dispelled this idea by proving that these three +territories were islands; but the question as to the existence of the +great southern land still remained to be proved. + +The subject was under discussion by men of science when the Endeavour +returned from her first voyage; and the Royal Society soon afterwards +resolved to recommend the despatch of another expedition, for the +purpose of attempting to settle the question. An offer of the command +of this exploratory voyage was at once made to Captain Cook, who gladly +accepted it--the selection of ships suitable for the purpose being +wisely left to his judgment. The qualities he considered essential were +great capacity, or stowage room, a rig easily worked, a size not too +large to enter small harbours, and a build which would enable the vessel +to take the ground and be easily got off again. + +The Endeavour, having been sent out to the Falkland Islands as a store +ship, was not available; two more vessels, therefore, made by the same +ship-builder as the Endeavour, were purchased at Hull. The largest, +named the Resolution, was of four hundred and sixty-two tons burden; and +the other, called the Adventure, was three hundred and thirty-six tons. +Captain Cook took possession of the former, as commander of the +expedition; and Tobias Furneaux, who had been second lieutenant with +Captain Wallis, was promoted and appointed to serve under Cook in +command of the Adventure. + +Captain Cook's first lieutenant was Robert Cooper; his second, Charles +Clerke, who had accompanied him on his previous voyage, as had also his +third lieutenant, Richard Pickersgill, and the lieutenant of marines, +John Edgecombe, with two of the warrant and several of the petty +officers. + +Mr Banks and Dr Solander had intended going, but not finding the +accommodation on board which they considered necessary for the comfort +and convenience of themselves and their attendants, they gave up the +project. So great, however, was the public enthusiasm on the subject of +the expedition, that, according to Boswell, even Dr Johnson thought of +applying for leave to accompany it, though, if he ever seriously +entertained the wish, it was speedily abandoned. + +Two astronomers, Mr William Wales and Mr William Bayley, were engaged +by the Board of Longitude--the former sailing in the Resolution, the +latter in the Adventure. The Admiralty appointed, as landscape-painter, +Mr William Hodges; and Mr John Reinhold Forster, and his son, were +engaged to attend to the department of natural history. The Board of +Longitude also amply furnished the expedition with the best astronomical +and other instruments which might be required, and with four +watch-machines, as chronometers were then called. Lord Sandwich, who +was at the head of the Admiralty Board, anxiously watched the equipment +of the ships, visiting them from time to time to satisfy himself that +everything was done in the best way to secure the success of the +undertaking and the comfort and health of those on board. + +Captain Cook had, in his former voyage, paid great attention to the +means best adapted for preserving the health of his crew, and he had +seen the importance of having an ample supply of provisions of an +anti-scorbutic character. He also endeavoured to have the ship well +dried and ventilated, and determined, as far as possible, that the men's +clothes should be kept dry, and their persons clean. Each ship had two +years and a half provisions on board, and among other articles were +wheat and sugar (in lieu of oatmeal), oil, malt, salted cabbage, +portable broth, mustard, marmalade of carrots, and inspissated juice of +wort, from which beer could be at once made. The frame of a vessel of +twenty tons was put on board each ship, to be set up, if found +necessary, to serve as tenders, or to enable the crews to escape should +the ships be wrecked. The Resolution had a complement of one hundred +and twelve officers and men, and the Adventure of eighty-one. +Fishing-nets and hooks of all sorts, articles to barter with the natives +or to bestow as presents, and additional clothing for the crews were put +on board. Medals also were struck, with the likeness of his Majesty on +one side, and of the two ships on the other, to be given to the +inhabitants of newly-discovered countries, as memorials of the +explorers' visit. Indeed, no expedition with a similar object in view +had ever left the shores of England so well equipped in every respect as +was the one now about to sail. + +The Resolution, being ready for sea, sailed from Deptford on April 9, +1772; but after being joined by the Adventure, she was detained by +contrary winds till May 10, when, both again sailing, the Resolution was +found to be so crank [Note 1] that it was necessary to lower her upper +works, and for this purpose she put into Sheerness. Lord Sandwich and +Sir Hugh Palliser went down to see the alterations made in an effectual +manner. On June 22, the ship, being again ready for sea, sailed from +Sheerness and joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound on July 3. Thus it +will be seen that there was a delay of nearly three months after the +expedition was supposed to be ready, before it was fully prepared for +sea. Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser again visited the ships in +Plymouth Sound, and the chronometers being set going in the presence of +the astronomers and the chief officers, the ships at length, on July 13, +set sail and shaped a course for Madeira. + +Anchoring in Funchal Roads on the 29th, and having taken on board fresh +beef and vegetables, including onions, for sea stores, the ships sailed +again on August 1. Finding their water run short, they put into Porto +Praya, in the island of Saint Jago, one of the Cape de Verde Islands, +for a supply. On October 29 the land of the Cape of Good Hope was made, +but as the ships were unable to get in before dark, they stood off and +on during the night. In the evening the phosphorescence of the sea +became unusually brilliant; and to convince Mr Forster, who differed +from Mr Banks and Dr Solander that it was caused by insects, some +buckets of water were drawn up from alongside. On examination he found +that the water was full of globular insects of the size of a pin's head, +and quite transparent. + +The next day the ships anchored off Cape Town, where Captain Cook and +his officers were received by the Governor and other authorities with +attention and respect. The Governor informed Captain Cook that a French +ship had discovered land in the meridian of the Mauritius, in latitude +48 degrees South; and also that in the previous March two French ships, +under Monsieur Marion, had touched at the Cape on their way to explore +the South Pacific. + +The expedition quitted the Cape of Good Hope on November 22, and steered +a course towards Cape Circumcision, which was the first object for which +they were directed to search. They soon found the weather very cold, +when warm clothing was issued; and having encountered a heavy gale, with +hail and rain, which drove them far to the eastward of their course, all +hope of reaching the looked-for cape was given up. Owing, also, to the +severity of the weather, and the sudden transition from dry heat to +extreme cold and wet, the ships' companies suffered a severe misfortune +in the loss of nearly all the live-stock (consisting of sheep, hogs, and +geese) which they had brought with them from Cape Town. This weather +continued for the greater part of the time the ships remained in that +high latitude. On December 10 an island of ice was seen in latitude 50 +degrees 40 minutes South and 2 degrees 0 minutes East of the Cape of +Good Hope. After this thick, hazy weather again came on, with sleet and +snow. The ships continued their course, the Resolution leading, when an +iceberg, directly for which they were steering, was discovered through +the mist not a mile off. It was about fifty feet high, flat at top, +about half a mile in circumference, and its sides, against which the sea +broke furiously, rose perpendicularly from the ocean. Captain Furneaux, +who was astern, took this ice for land, and hauled off from it; and +there is no doubt that many navigators who have reported land in these +latitudes have been deceived in the same way. + +Nothing could be more trying to the explorers than the navigation in +which they were now engaged, day after day tacking off and on among +large fields of ice, through which they in vain endeavoured to find a +passage to the southward, with the constant risk, in thick weather, of +running foul of icebergs, or of getting fast in the packed ice which +might any moment enclose them, while all the time they were exposed to +storms of snow and sleet, with a constant frost, although it was the +middle of summer. Dangerous as it was sailing among icebergs, or, as +Captain Cook calls them, ice-rocks, especially in thick weather, the +ships were in still greater peril when surrounded by packed ice, which +consisted of huge slabs, of great thickness, varying from thirty or +forty feet down to three or four feet square, packed close together, and +often piled one on another. Stout as were the ships, it was not +expected that they could resist the enormous pressure to which they +would be subjected should they get caught in such frozen bonds. It was +the opinion of those on board that this sort of ice was formed only in +bays and rivers, and that therefore they must be near land, which was +eagerly though vainly looked-for. So severe was the cold that an +iceberg examined by the master had no water running down it, as is +generally the case in summer. + +Captain Cook now steered to the west, in the hope of getting round the +ice; but though he held on this course for some time, both to the south +and west of the supposed position of Cape Circumcision, he neither fell +in with it, nor did he observe any of the usual indications of land. +Various birds, however, were seen, and several of them were shot; but as +they would find roosting-places on the ice islands, they might have come +a very great distance from the land. Thus, the penguins, which were +seen in great numbers on some icebergs, and are supposed never to go far +from land, might have come a very great distance over the ice from their +native haunts. Be that as it may, no land was seen by either vessel, +notwithstanding the diligent search made for it. + +On December 31, while the ships were still surrounded by ice, a strong +gale sprang up, with a heavy sea, which made it very dangerous for them +to remain in the position in which they then were. The peril was yet +further increased by an immense field of ice which appeared to the +north, extending from north-east by east to south-west by west, and +between two and three miles off. The ships received several severe +blows from masses of ice of the largest size. Providentially, they got +clear by the afternoon, for at that time the wind increased so much that +it was necessary to haul the top-sails and to strike topgallant masts. +The next day the wind abated, but the weather continued thick and hazy, +with sleet and snow which froze on the rigging as it fell, and +ornamented the whole of it with icicles. At length the longitude in +which the looked-for cape was supposed to lie was reached, and as the +ships were far to the southward of the latitude in which Captain Bouvet +stated he had seen it, no doubt remained that he had mistaken lofty +icebergs, surrounded by loose or field ice, for land, as Captain Cook +and his officers had already been deceived on the first day they fell in +with field ice. + +When the weather became finer the ships were able to fill up their +water-casks with pure fresh water, by collecting masses of ice, and then +hanging them up to allow any salt which might have adhered to them to +run off. Whenever the weather permitted, the astronomers were employed +in making observations, and the naturalists in collecting birds, the +only objects they had the means of obtaining. + +The antarctic circle was crossed on January 17, in longitude 39 degrees +35 minutes East; and on the evening of that day the whole sea to the +south and west appeared covered with ice, though shortly before none was +in sight. In this space thirty-eight ice islands, great and small, were +counted, besides loose ice in abundance, so that the ships were obliged +to luff to avoid one piece, and to bear up to escape another, as they +proceeded to the south. At length a compact mass, from sixteen to +eighteen feet high, appearing to the south, without any opening, Captain +Cook altered his course to the north. A number of whales were now seen +sporting about the ice, and several flocks of antarctic petrels. The +ships did not alter their course an hour too soon, for that night a +heavy gale sprang up which would have rendered their position very +dangerous. After this, search was in vain made for the land said to +have been seen by the French captain in the longitude of the Mauritius. + +On February 8, during thick weather, the Adventure was separated from +the Resolution, and though, according to arrangement, Captain Cook +cruised for three days about the spot where his consort had last been +seen, and continued burning blue lights and firing guns, he was +compelled at last to give up the search. On the night of the 17th the +aurora presented a very beautiful appearance. It was first seen in the +east, and, gradually rising, formed a brilliant arch across the heavens, +with a light sufficiently strong to cast shadows on the deck, and at one +time to allow a book to be read. A description of the incidents met +with during this part of the voyage would not prove generally +interesting. One, however, must not be omitted. + +The Resolution being off a large ice island, round which there was a +quantity of loose ice, Captain Cook sent two boats to take some on +board. The island was not less than half a mile in circumference, and +its summit three or four hundred feet above the surface of the sea. +While the boats were thus engaged in its neighbourhood, it was seen to +bend over till it turned nearly bottom up, though it seemed by the +change not to have lost either in height or size. The boats escaped +without damage from their dangerous position. + +During all the time, up to the separation of the two ships, the crews +had enjoyed generally excellent health. A few slight symptoms of scurvy +had appeared, but they were quickly subdued by a liberal use of the +remedies which had been supplied. The fresh wort made from malt seems +to have been very efficacious in arresting the malady. Occasionally, +too, when the weather allowed, the men's bedding and clothes were spread +on deck to air, and the ship was smoked and cleaned between decks. This +prevented the crews from contracting those diseases which have proved so +fatal on board ships where they have been neglected. + +At length, by the middle of March, the antarctic summer being nearly +over, and his crew requiring rest and his ship refitting, Captain Cook +shaped a course which would soon bring her into a more genial clime. He +had purposed visiting Van Diemen's Land, but as the wind would not allow +him to shape a course for that country, he steered for New Zealand, +which was sighted on March 25. A heavy gale compelled him to keep at +sea, but the following day he entered Dusky Bay, at the south-west end +of Tavai Poenammoo, or the Middle Island, as it is now called. This was +on Friday, March 26, after having been one hundred and seventeen days at +sea, and sailed over three thousand six hundred and sixty leagues, or +nearly ten thousand miles, without having once sighted land. Only one +man, and he of a naturally bad habit of body, had been seriously ill; +and Cook attributed the excellent health of his crew, partly to the +frequent airing and sweetening of the ship by fires, etcetera, and +partly to the portable broth, sweet-wort, pickled cabbage, and +sour-krout. Although no discovery, except of a negative character, was +made during this part of the voyage, we cannot but admire the hardihood +and perseverance, the skill and courage, exhibited by the great +navigator during the whole of that trying time. + +A secure harbour having been found by Lieutenant Pickersgill in Dasky +Bay, where the ship could lie close to the shore, she was warped into it +and moored, her yards being locked in the branches of the trees; there +being also, a hundred yards from her stern, a fine stream of fresh +water. No place could have been better suited for refitting the ship +and refreshing the crew, and both officers and men enjoyed their stay at +this healthy and beautiful spot. Places were forthwith cleared of trees +to set up the observatory, the forge, and the tents for the sail-makers +and coopers. At the captain's suggestion, wholesome beer was brewed +from the leaves of a tree resembling the American black spruce, mixed +with the inspissated juice of wort and molasses. The constant attention +of the great navigator to the most minute points calculated to maintain +or improve the health of those placed under his charge cannot be too +strongly commended. Throughout his journals notices constantly occur +which show that whenever anti-scorbutic vegetables, or herbs of any +sort, were required, he did not entrust the search to others, but went +himself to look for them. It is sad to reflect how indifferent to his +example many other navigators have been, especially the masters of +merchantmen; and that even at the present day, notwithstanding all the +assistance which science is able to render, their crews often suffer +fearfully from scurvy. + +Shooting and fishing parties now went out constantly, and an ample +supply of wild-fowl was obtained. The bay was also surveyed, and found +to contain several good harbours. Some exploring expeditions for short +distances into the exterior were also started, but very few natives were +met with. There appeared, indeed, to be only three or four families +settled in the neighbourhood, and it was not understood why they had +separated themselves from their countrymen; but it was conjectured that +they were the remnant of a tribe which, in one of the frequent native +wars, had escaped massacre. Only one of these families became intimate +with the strangers, in whom they showed unusual confidence by taking up +their quarters very near to the watering-place. + +These people evinced little astonishment at sight of a few sheep and +goats which, having escaped the effects of the cold, were taken on +shore, but stared at them with what appeared to be stupid insensibility; +and when various articles of European manufacture were offered to them +they received these gifts with indifference, except, indeed, hatchets +and spike-nails, the value of which they could comprehend. + +After some further acquaintance, the head of this family and his +daughter were persuaded to visit the ship. Before venturing on board, +he presented to the captain a piece of cloth and a green talc hatchet; +he gave another to Mr Forster, and the girl gave one to Mr Hodges. +This custom of making presents had been found common with the natives of +the South Sea Islands, but had not before been observed among the New +Zealanders. After these propitiatory gifts were received, and before +stepping on to the stage which led to the deck, the native took a small +green branch in his hand, with which he several times struck the ship's +side, while he also repeated a speech or prayer. When this ceremony was +concluded he stepped on deck. + +On taking leave of this New Zealander, Captain Cook was presented by him +with another piece of native cloth, with the expression of a wish for a +cloak in return. One of red baize was accordingly given to him, and +seemed to afford great satisfaction. Thus far, therefore, on this +visit, intercourse with these aborigines of the new country was pleasant +and successful. + +Other natives were afterwards seen by some of the explorers, who were on +a shooting expedition. These set up a hideous noise, and were with +difficulty persuaded to approach and lay down their spears. At last one +of them came forward, with a plant in his hand, one end of which he +presented to Captain Cook, while he himself held the other. He then +began a long speech with frequent pauses, and as soon as the captain +replied--of course, not understanding a word that was said--the savage +proceeded in his harangue. This done, he took off his cloak, which he +put on the captain's shoulders, and seemed to consider that their peace +was established. The natives followed the English to the boat, and +seeing some muskets lying across the stern, desired them to be taken +away, having probably observed their effects on the wild ducks. They +then assisted to launch the boat, but it was necessary to keep a +watchful eye on them, for they wanted to take away everything in the +boat on which they could lay hands. No canoes were observed belonging +to these people, two or three logs of wood tied together serving them +for crossing rivers; indeed, fish and fowl were so plentiful that they +had not far to go in order to procure food. + +In accordance with Cook's desire to benefit the countries he visited, he +took five geese which he had brought from the Cape of Good Hope, and +left them in a retired cove (which was on that account called Goose +Cove), in hope that they might there multiply and be useful to future +inhabitants. A garden was also dug, and, with the same object in view, +various sorts of garden seeds were sown in it. + +On April 28, the tents and other articles being taken on board, the +Resolution once more got under way, though, owing to light and contrary +winds, it was not till May 11 that she was fairly at sea. She then +proceeded along the west coast, towards Queen Charlotte's Sound, in +Cook's Straits, between the two islands. Nothing of importance occurred +till the ship was about three leagues to the westward of Cape Stephens, +when just as it fell calm six waterspouts appeared round her, four +between her and the land, and one outside; the sixth in the south-west, +two or three miles off. Progressing in a crooked line to the +north-east, it passed within fifty yards of her stern. A gun had been +got ready to fire into it when it should come nearer. The diameter of +the base was about sixty feet, the sea within which was much agitated, +and foamed up to great height. From this the water appeared to be +carried in a spiral stream up to the clouds. Some of the seamen said +that they saw a bird in it, which was whirled round like the fly of a +jack. During the time the waterspouts were in sight there were light +puffs of wind from all points of the compass, while occasionally large +drops of rain fell. + +On the 18th the Resolution appeared off Queen Charlotte's Sound, where, +greatly to the satisfaction of all on board, her consort, the Adventure, +was found to be awaiting her. Her boats soon came out, and the +Resolution was brought to an anchor in Ship Cove, close to her. Captain +Furneaux at once came on board, and gave Captain Cook a narrative of his +proceedings after being separated from him. Having in vain looked-for +the Resolution, he bore away to the north, till Van Diemen's Land was +sighted. He sailed along the east coast for some distance, some parts +of which appeared fertile and thickly populated. The Adventure lay +within Maria Island for five days, to take in wood and water, and then +proceeded to the north along shore. For some distance no land was seen, +but as the soundings were very regular, Captain Furneaux was of opinion +that no straits existed between New Holland and Van Diemen's Land, but +only a very deep bay. Having come to this erroneous opinion, he bore +away for New Zealand, and had been five weeks in Ship Cove when the +Resolution appeared. He had kept up a friendly intercourse with the +natives, who frequently asked for Tupia, and seemed much concerned when +told that he was dead. + +While at Queen Charlotte's Sound Captain Cook had a garden planted, as +before, and gave the natives some potatoes, explaining their use and the +mode of cultivating them. A pair of goats and a boar and two sows were +put on shore, in the hopes of their multiplying. A ewe and ram, which +had been brought with great trouble and care to the place, were also +landed, but the following day were found dead, from having eaten some +poisonous plant. + +An idea had prevailed on board the Adventure that the natives were ready +to sell their children. This Captain Cook soon proved to be incorrect. +Their object in bringing them on board was to obtain presents for them. +A man brought his son, a boy of about ten years of age, and at first +Captain Cook fancied from what he had heard that the object of the +father was to sell him, but he soon found that it was merely to obtain a +white shirt, which was given. The boy was so proud of it that he went +about showing it to everybody he met, till he encountered old Will, the +goat, who, making a butt at him, knocked him over in some dirt, sadly +soiling his shirt. The boy considered the mischief irreparable, and was +afraid of appearing before his father. At last he was brought in by Mr +Forster, when he told a lamentable story against the great "dog"--nor +was he comforted till his shirt was washed and dried. Captain Cook +justly remarks in his journal that this incident shows how easily people +can be deceived, when ignorant of the language, as to the customs and +habits of the natives of foreign countries. + +While these friendly natives were on board, a strange canoe full of +people entered the harbour. The natives on seeing them said they were +enemies, and two of them mounted the arm chests on the poop, one armed +with a native hatchet, and the other with a spear, and, in bravado, bade +their enemies defiance. The rest who were on board, jumping into their +canoe, went on shore, probably to secure their women and children. The +two who remained begged Captain Cook to fire at the strangers. The +latter, however, came on board, apparently without having had any evil +intentions, and peace was soon established among all parties. The +strangers at once asked for Tupia, and hearing that he was dead, one or +two expressed their sorrow in a way which appeared more formal than +real. + +A brisk trade was soon established with the newcomers; but the +thoughtless seamen were so ready to give even the clothes off their +backs for the merest trifles, neither useful nor ornamental, that the +captain was compelled to dismiss the strangers. He afterwards crossed +the harbour with Mr Forster and one of the officers to a spot where a +hundred natives--men, women, and children--were collected, with six +canoes, and apparently all their utensils. These they seem always to +carry with them when they go even a short distance from home, lest they +should be stolen by their enemies in their absence. + +The state of constant warfare and consequent distrust in which they +lived, especially in the Middle Island, was very evident, for they were +generally found on their guard, travelling or working with their weapons +in their hands; even the women were seen occasionally armed with spears. +Captain Cook had reason to believe that the entire population of the +Sound had changed since he was there in 1770, as he could not recognise +the face of a single person he then knew. Those who asked for Tupia had +possibly not seen him, but had only heard of him from their countrymen, +among whom he was very popular. The immorality of the natives met with +during their visit to New Zealand appears to have been very flagrant, +and it is sad to reflect that advantage was taken of it by the seamen, +without the slightest rebuke or censure from their superiors; indeed, it +cannot be discovered from the journals of the officers that they were at +all aware of their duties as a Christian people with regard to heathen +savages whose shores they visited. + +The king's birthday was spent with the usual festivities, the officers +of the two ships dining together. + +On June 7, 1773, the two ships put out to sea, with the intention of +exploring all the unknown parts of the ocean between the meridian of New +Zealand and Cape Horn. In case of separation they were to rendezvous at +Otaheite, where Captain Furneaux was to wait till August 20, and then to +proceed to Queen Charlotte's Sound. If not joined at that place before +November 20 by Captain Cook, he was to put to sea, and carry out the +instructions he had received from the Admiralty. Cook's object in +attempting to explore in so high a latitude during the winter season was +to get some of the work done which would otherwise have occupied the +precious months of summer; and besides, he wished to show future +navigators that it would be practicable to make discoveries even in the +depths of winter. + +After leaving New Zealand, the course steered was generally about +north-east, so that the ships soon got into a warm latitude, and the men +once more put on their cool clothing. Sad news was brought on board the +Resolution at this time, June 29. It was that scurvy had broken out on +board the Adventure; that her cook had died, and that twenty men were +ill with that complaint and the flux. The Resolution had only three men +on the sick-list, and but one of these had the scurvy. A few others, +showing symptoms of it, were supplied with wort, marmalade of carrots, +and thickened juice of lemons. It appeared that the crew of the +Adventure, during the six weeks they were in Queen Charlotte's Sound, +had eaten no vegetables, partly from not knowing what herbs to gather, +and also from the inveterate dislike of the seamen to a new diet. +Captain Cook had, from the first, when he thought it necessary, insisted +on having wild celery, scurvy grass, and other herbs boiled with the +pease and wheat, both for officers and men; and though some refused to +eat it, he was firm, and would allow no other food to be served out, so +that at last the prejudice wore off. Captain Furneaux instantly made +use of all the remedies in his power, and his people improved in health. +Still it was necessary for their sakes to put into harbour where +vegetables could be procured, and a course was accordingly steered for +Otaheite. + +Several small low islands, clothed with cocoanut trees, were seen, but +the necessity of reaching a harbour without delay prevented their +examination. + +On August 15, Osnaburg Island, or Maitea, was seen, and the ships then +steered for Oaiti-piha Bay, near the south-east end of Otaheite, in +order to procure there such refreshments as the place could afford. + +At daybreak they found themselves not half a league from a reef, towards +which the scud of the sea rapidly sent them, the wind having completely +fallen. The depth was too great to anchor, and the boats failed to tow +the ships off. A number of natives came off with provisions, but seemed +totally unconscious of the dangerous position of the ships. It was +curious that, though they recognised Captain Cook and those who had been +there before, no one asked for Tupia. + +The position of the ships became more and more critical; the captain had +hoped to get round the end of the reef, but as they drew nearer and +nearer this hope vanished, and shipwreck seemed certain. Just then a +passage was discovered through the reef, but a boat being sent ahead to +sound, it was found that there was not water sufficient for the ships to +pass over: indeed, so strongly did the flood-tide set towards it, that +the Resolution seemed nearer than ever to destruction. The horrors of +shipwreck stared the explorers in the face; there was no wind to fill +their sails; the boats were powerless; the only means of saving the +ships was to anchor; but would the anchors hold? They were let go, and +the Resolution was brought up in less than three-fathom water, striking +at every fall of the sea, while the Adventure brought up close on her +bow without striking. Kedge anchors and hawsers were now carried out, +and found ground; by hauling on these the ship was got afloat, but there +was a fear that these would come home or be cut by the rocks, and +nothing could then have saved the Resolution. Happily, they held on +till the tide turned, when a light breeze coming off the land both +vessels made sail, and got out of danger, though with the loss of +several anchors and cables. + +The next day the ships anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay, about two cables' +length from the shore. Both ships were crowded with natives, who +brought off cocoanuts, plantains, bananas, apples, yams, and other +fruits and vegetables, which they exchanged for nails and beads. +Presents of shirts and axes were made to several who called themselves +chiefs, or _earees_, and who promised to bring off hogs and fowls, +which, however, they did not do. These earees did not scruple to pilfer +whatever came in their way, and one of them, who pretended to be very +friendly, was found handing articles which did not belong to him out of +the quarter-galley. As his companions on deck were behaving in the same +way, they were all turned out of the ship, and two muskets were fired +over the head of the chief offender to frighten him. On this, he jumped +out of his canoe, which, with two others, was brought on board, and a +gun was fired along shore, but so as not to hurt any one. This soon +cleared the coast. In one of the canoes was a little boy, who was at +first very much frightened, but beads were given to him, and he was sent +in safety on shore. This quickly restored the confidence of the +natives, and all by the evening were again good friends. + +The intercourse with the natives now went on with tolerable smoothness, +though their thieving propensities frequently nearly brought about a +rupture. On one occasion, in Captain Cook's presence, a native seized +the musket of one of the guards on shore, and made off with it. Some of +the seamen were sent after him, but he would have escaped had not the +natives also given chase, knocked down the thief, and brought back the +musket. Although fear may possibly have operated on this occasion with +the natives more than a sense of justice, Captain Cook was thankful to +them, because he would certainly have lost ten times the value of the +weapon in endeavouring to recover it by force. + +The following day a thief brought on board a quantity of fruit as a +present, among which were a number of cocoanuts, which, after the juice +had been extracted, had been thrown away by the seamen. These had been +so artfully tied up in bundles that at first the cheat was not +perceived. The chief did not seem at all ashamed when the trick was +discovered, but having opened a few himself, acknowledged that they were +empty. On going on shore, however, he sent off a quantity of plantains +and bananas. + +A supply of water, fruit, and roots having been got on board, Captain +Cook was preparing to sail for Matavai, when it was announced that +Waheatoua was coming to meet him. He found the young chief seated in +the open air on a stool, surrounded by a large number of attendants, and +at once recollected him, having known him when a boy, under the name of +Tearee. He had, on the death of his father, Waheatoua, taken his name. +The chief begged Captain Cook to remain some months, promising hogs and +provisions of all sorts. He insisted on keeping the captain by his +side, and whenever they moved about the stool was carried after them, +that they might again be seated in the same position. + +Before the ships had come to an anchor in Matavai Bay, the decks were +covered with natives, many of whom Captain Cook recognised. The king, +Otoo, was among those on board, but he took fright without any apparent +reason, and landed again. The next day an encampment was made on shore +for the sail-makers, coopers, and the sick. This done, Captain Cook, +accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and others, set off to +visit Otoo. He was found seated on the ground, under the shade of a +tree, with a large crowd round him, all standing uncovered, as a mark of +respect; that is, not only their heads bare, but their shoulders, and +some wore no clothing above the breast--his father not excepted. +Presents were made by Captain Cook, and the king was told that they were +given in friendship, and that none would be received in return. The +king inquired for Tupia, and for all the officers who were on board the +Endeavour on the former voyage. Otoo, though a fine tall young man, was +very nervous, and acknowledged that he had left the ship because he was +afraid of the guns. On the 27th, however, he came to the camp with a +large retinue, having first sent on board a quantity of cloth, fruits, a +hog, and two large fish. He, a sister and younger brother, with several +attendants, were persuaded to visit the ship, and all received presents, +Captain Cook afterwards taking them to their home at Oparree in his +boat. + +On landing, the captain met a venerable old lady, the mother of Toutaha. +She seized him by the hands, and bursting into tears, exclaimed, +"Toutaha, the friend of Cook, is dead!" Captain Cook says that he was +so much affected that he should have wept also had not Otoo drawn him +away. Captain Furneaux made the king a present of a male and female +goat, in the hope that they might stock the island. + +On another occasion, when Otoo came on board, as he entered the cabin +several chiefs who were there immediately uncovered their shoulders, +although they did not rise or show him any other mark of respect. He +was entertained with the bagpipes, which seemed to have especial charms +for the natives. The seamen also danced hornpipes and country dances. +In return, the king entertained the voyagers with a dramatic +performance, in which his sister took a part. The drama seemed to have +reference to the circumstances of the time, as Captain Cook's name was +frequently mentioned. The lady's dress was very elegant, being +decorated with long tassels made of feathers, hanging from the waist +downwards. The performance lasted about two hours. So far as the +disposition of the natives was concerned, the visit seems to have been +satisfactory, though fewer hogs were obtained than were required. Mr +Pickersgill was sent about in all directions to obtain them, and in one +of his expeditions he saw Oberea, once the person of most importance in +the island. She had now become old, poor, and of little consequence. + +Otoo was very unwilling that the ships should go, and shed tears when he +parted from Captain Cook. A young lad, called Boreo, was taken on board +the Resolution. Though he seemed tolerably satisfied, he could not help +weeping as he saw his native island left astern. Two days afterwards +the ships anchored in the harbour of Owharre, in the island of Huaheine. +The two captains, on landing, were received with the greatest +cordiality by the natives, who, after a few presents had been +distributed amongst them, brought hogs, fowls, dogs, and fruit, which +they exchanged for hatchets, nails, and beads; indeed, there seemed +every prospect of an abundance of provisions being obtained. The chief, +Oree, who had, on Cook's former visit, exchanged names with him, was +still living, and sent word that he was hastening to see him. Before, +however, the captain was allowed to leave his boat, five young plantain +trees--the emblem of peace employed by the natives--were brought on +board separately, and with some ceremony. Three young pigs, their ears +ornamented with cocoanut fibre, accompanied the first three, and a dog +the fourth. Lastly, the chief sent the inscription engraved on a piece +of pewter which had been left with him in July 1769. + +This ceremony ended, the guide who had come to conduct the English to +the shore requested them to decorate three young plantain trees with +looking-glasses, nails, medals, and beads. This being done, they landed +with the trees in their hands, and were conducted to the chief through a +multitude of people, who made a lane for them to pass. They were then +made to sit down a few paces from the chief, and the plantains were +taken from them. One was for their god, one for the king, and the third +for friendship. Captain Cook then wished to advance to the king, but he +was told that the king would come to him, which he did, falling on his +neck and embracing him; the tears flowing down his venerable cheeks, +showing the affectionate feelings of his heart. His friends were then +introduced, and presents were made to them. Cook speaks in the most +affectionate terms of Oree; indeed, all his actions showed him to have +been an upright, kind-hearted man. + +The trading expeditions sent out were so successful that three hundred +hogs, besides fowls and vegetables of all sorts, were obtained. It was +from this island that Captain Furneaux received on board a young man, +named Omai, a native of Ulietea, where he had some property, of which he +had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. Omai was not a chief, +and he was so inferior in figure, complexion, and manners to the chiefs, +that Captain Cook was surprised that Captain Furneaux should have +selected him. He was not, indeed, a favourable sample of the natives of +the Pacific Isles as far as appearance went. Ultimately, however, Omai, +by his intelligence and good conduct, won the regard of Captain Cook, +who afterwards, in his journal, speaks of him in warm terms of +commendation. + +Here, as elsewhere, there were thieves and rogues. Mr Sparrman was +attacked while wandering in the woods, beaten, and robbed of his clothes +and hanger. Oree, on hearing of it, shed tears, and set off in person +to recover the clothes, most of which he got back. Altogether, however, +the chief and his subjects were among the best disposed of all the +people visited during the voyage. He came on board the Resolution as +she was leaving the harbour, and did not quit her till he had taken an +affectionate farewell of Captain Cook, when nearly half a league out at +sea. He then went away in a small canoe, paddled by himself and another +man, all the other natives having long before left the ship. + +The following morning the ships entered the harbour of Ohamaneno, in the +island of Ulietea, where they lay safely moored. The ships were at once +surrounded with canoes, and hogs and vegetables were offered in +abundance. At first, none of the former would be taken, as the ships +were already crowded; but as killing and salting went on, room was made +for them; and, in all, four hundred and fifty hogs were collected at +this island. Most of them were brought in canoes from different +directions to the ship, so that there was very little trading on shore. +It was in consequence of the exertions made by Captain Cook in +collecting provisions, and the judicious means he employed, that he was +able to remain away from home so many years, and to make so many +important discoveries. + +The chief of that part of the island was Oreo. Captain Cook paid him a +visit at his own house, and was cordially received. He, as others had +done, inquired after Tupia and the captain's companions on his former +voyage, by name. A play was soon got up--the chiefs daughter and seven +men being the actors. The plot was as follows:--A theft was committed +in a masterly manner, but discovered before the thief had time to carry +off his plunder. He and his accomplice were attacked by those who had +charge of it; but the latter were beaten off, and the rogues escaped in +triumph. This incident gives a notion of the moral character of the +people in that respect. On another occasion Oreo entertained the +strangers with a feast, in the native fashion. The floor was strewed +thick with leaves, on which hot bread, fruit, and plantains were placed, +with two pigs roasted whole--one of about sixty, the other thirty +pounds. They were admirably dressed, having been baked in the native +underground ovens, all parts being equally cooked. Cocoanuts supplied +the beverage, but the visitors had brought some bottles of wine, which +the chief seemed to like, as he both then and always filled his glass +whenever the bottle came to him, but seemed not to be affected by it. +Plays were got up every day for the amusement of the strangers; indeed, +the natives seemed anxious in every way to please them. The people of +this island appeared to be of a mild, amiable, and timid disposition. + +A native lad about eighteen years of age, called Oedidee, joined the +Resolution at this island, in the place of Boreo, who, falling in love +with a damsel he met with, remained that he might marry her. Oedidee +was a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the great Opoony, chief +of that island. + +On this his second visit to these islands, Captain Cook, knowing more of +the language of the people, was able to gain a better insight into their +habits and customs. Among other points, he discovered, without doubt, +that human sacrifices were frequently offered up at their morais. At +first the natives would only acknowledge that criminals were killed, but +afterwards they confessed that any whom the priest chose to denounce +were offered up. Thus, a priest who had a dislike to a man might at any +moment doom him to death by pronouncing him a bad man. He then sent out +his executioners, who, with a couple of blows from their heavy clubs, +struck the unsuspecting victim dead at their feet. The corpse was +forthwith carried to the morais, when the chief, who was compelled to +attend such sacrifices, had the eye offered to him to eat! At some of +the islands, the inhabitants of which Captain Cook describes as the most +happy on earth, the priests held this terrific power to a fearful +extent. At the time of his thus writing he was not aware of the fact +which is so strikingly illustrative of the declaration of holy writ, +that "the dark places of the earth are full of the habitations of +cruelty." + +On September 17, 1773, the ships were again at sea. It was the +intention of Captain Cook to get into the latitude of Middleburg and +Amsterdam, in order to touch there before hauling up for New Zealand. +At night they generally lay to, lest any land might be passed in the +dark. Some small islets clothed with cocoanut trees were passed on the +23rd, and named Hervey's Islands, but no inhabitants were seen on shore. + +Middleburg was reached on October 1, and the following day, as the ships +were beating up to an anchorage, two canoes came boldly off to them. +Directly the anchors were dropped, the ships were surrounded by canoes, +bringing cloth and other curiosities. Among the people who came on +board was a chief, whose good services were secured by the present of a +hatchet, spike-nails, and other articles. His name was Tioony. He +piloted the boats to a place where the landing was very easy, and where +a large concourse of people were assembled to receive them with +commodities, which they pressed on their visitors, scarcely expecting to +receive anything in return. At last, the chief, making the people open +right and left, conducted his visitors to his house, which was +delightfully situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at the +head of a fine lawn under the shade of some shaddock trees. The floor +was covered with mats, on which the guests were invited to be seated, +the people arranging themselves on the ground in a circle outside. The +piper having landed, Captain Cook ordered the bagpipes to be played, +and, in return, three young women sang with a very good grace. A +present being made to each of these, all the other women commenced +singing. Their songs were musical and harmonious, and in no way harsh +or disagreeable. The chief had another house in an adjoining +plantation, to which his guests were conducted, and where they were +entertained with bananas and cocoanuts, and bowls of cava; though, on +witnessing the mode of preparing that beverage, the thirst of the +visitors was sufficiently quenched. They were seated in an open space +in front of the house, which was surrounded with fruit and other trees, +whose fragrance filled the air. + +The chief, Tioony, went on board and dined, and then, at their request, +conducted the strangers through part of the island. There were numerous +plantations of fir trees and edible roots, laid out with great judgment, +and enclosed with neat fences made of reeds. The ships were crowded the +whole day with people trafficking, and perfect good order prevailed. In +the evening, on the return of the officers on board, they expressed +themselves highly delighted with the country and the very obliging +behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie with each other in doing +what they thought would please their visitors. + +The group of islands, at one of which the ships now were, was called the +Tonga Islands; but Cook, from the treatment he received, named them the +Friendly Islands, by which name they are now generally known. Tasman, +who discovered them in 1642-3, named the two principal islands Amsterdam +and Middleburg. The former is called by the natives Tongatabu, or the +Great Tonga; the latter Ea-oo-we. There are other volcanic islands to +the north, belonging to the group, not then known. + +Leaving Ea-oo-we, or Middleburg, the ships ran down to Tongatabu, +keeping about half a mile from the shore, on which the sea broke with a +heavy surf. With the aid of glasses it was seen that every part of the +shore was laid out in plantations, while the natives were observed +running along the shore waving small white flags, which were, of course, +looked on as an emblem of peace. They were answered by hoisting a Saint +George's ensign. Several canoes paddled alongside, and the people in +them, after presenting the cava root, came boldly on board. The ships +anchored in Van Diemen's Road, just outside the breakers, with a +casting-anchor and cable to seaward in forty-seven-fathom water, to +prevent them from tailing on the rocks. Their decks were quickly +crowded with natives, who brought off only native cloths, for which the +seamen too readily gave them clothes. To put a stop to this proceeding, +Captain Cook ordered that no sort of curiosities should be purchased by +any person whatever. The good effect of this order was visible next +morning, when, instead of comparatively useless articles, the natives +brought off bananas and cocoanuts in abundance, and some pigs and fowls. + +Proper arrangements having been made for conducting the trade, the +captains landed under the guidance of a chief, Attago, who had at once +singled out Captain Cook as the principal person, and offered him the +usual presents. Cook and Attago also exchanged names, the custom of so +doing being practised at the Friendly as well as at the Society Islands. +The friendly chief pointed out a creek into which the boats could run, +and on landing the visitors were seated under the shade of a tree, the +people forming a circle round them; but no one attempted to push +forward, as was the habit of the Otaheiteans. The officers then begged +Attago to show them the country. This, without hesitation, he at once +signified his readiness to do. + +The first visit was paid to a sort of temple in an open green, raised on +the top of an artificial mound, about seventeen feet above the level +ground. The mound was of an oblong form, enclosed by a wall, and the +building, which differed little from the ordinary dwelling-houses of the +people, was of the same shape. On approaching this temple the people +seated themselves on the grass, about fifty yards off, when three +venerable-looking priests appeared and addressed the strangers, with +whom, as soon as their speech was finished, they came and sat down, when +some presents were made to them. After this, Attago signified that the +strangers were welcome to examine the temple. In the interior were some +images, but when Cook inquired if they were Etuas, or gods, Attago +kicked them over without any ceremony, to show that he did not look upon +them with reverence. Neither Omai nor Oedidee understood the language +spoken by the natives of Tonga, consequently it was difficult to +ascertain the exact object of the building. + +It appears extraordinary to us at the present day, and it is painful to +narrate, that Captain Cook should have conceived it right, as he said he +did, to make an offering at the altar. He and his companions, +therefore, laid down some blue pebbles, coins, nails, and other +articles, as presents to the gods of these poor heathens. Unhappily, +this proceeding was in accordance with the customs of our countrymen, +and even of the English Government in India, who, to a much later +period, furnished a money grant to the temple of Juggernaut (one of the +principal gods of the Hindoos), and it was only in comparatively modern +times that this disgraceful grant was discontinued. In the present +instance, however, it did not appear that these offerings were looked +upon as particularly sacred, as the chief, Attago, took them up, and +placing them in the folds of his dress, appropriated them to himself. + +The green in which this temple stood was at the junction of several +roads, two or three of which were very much frequented. The high road +along which the chief led the strangers was perfectly level, and sixteen +feet broad; many others led into it, and all were enclosed on each side +with neat fences made of reeds, and shaded from the scorching sun by +fruit trees. Not an inch of ground was waste; the roads occupied no +more space than was necessary, while the fences did not take up above +four inches on each side, and even this was not wholly lost, for many of +them were composed of useful trees or shrubs. Numbers of people were +met, some travelling down to the ships with their burdens of fruits and +other articles for barter. All courteously got out of the road, sitting +down or standing with their backs to the fences as their visitors +passed. + +At most of the cross roads the temples just described were seen standing +on mounds, but were surrounded by palisades instead of stone walls. +After walking several miles a larger temple than usual was reached, and +near it was a house, at which the party stopped, and were treated with +fruit and other provisions, while an old priest made a long speech. +These temples at the cross roads remind us of the shrines set up to +legendary saints in Roman Catholic countries. + +The party returned on board with Attago, and while at dinner they +received a visit from an old chief of superior rank, in whose presence +the former would not sit down or eat. As soon, however, as the old man +was gone, Attago took his place, finished his dinner, and drank two +glasses of wine. + +Here, as at most places, the natives of inferior rank showed a +disposition to thieve. Poor Mr Wales was found seated on the shore, +unable to move, for having, when landing, in order to wade to the shore, +taken off his shoes and stockings, a native had run off with them, and +it was impossible for him to follow over the sharp coral rocks. Attago, +however, soon discovered the thief, and had the stolen garments +returned. On two or three other occasions the boats were pillaged, and +a man, having run off with a seaman's jacket, though hotly pursued and +fired at, would not abandon his prize till intercepted by some of the +English on shore. A native also got into the master's cabin, and had +stolen some articles, when, as he was leaping through the port into his +canoe to escape, he was discovered. He was pursued by one of the boats, +when, taking to the water, he dived under her several times, just as the +men thought they were about to catch hold of him. Finally, he contrived +to unship the rudder, and thus rendering the boat unmanageable, made his +escape. + +Just as the explorers were about to sail, it was discovered that there +was a much greater person in the island than any one they had yet seen. +Mr Pickersgill, who had met him, said that the people paid him +extraordinary respect; that some, when they approached him, fell on +their faces, and put their heads between their feet, and that no one +presumed to pass him without permission. When, however, Captain Cook +saw the monarch, he took him for an idiot, from his stolid or sullen +manner. On being spoken to, he neither answered nor altered a feature +of his countenance, and even when a shirt was put on him, and other +articles were placed by his side, he neither lifted an arm of his own +accord, nor put out his hand to receive them. Probably, however, this +manner was assumed, as adding, in his opinion, to his dignity, as he was +afterwards caught laughing at something Attago said to him. + +During the whole time of their stay at this island, Attago had proved +himself of great use to Captain Cook and his companions. He had +presented himself on board the captain's ship every morning, and did not +quit his side till dark. On the departure of the ships he earnestly +pressed the captain to return, and to bring cloth and axes, promising +hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots in abundance. He asked also, for himself, +a uniform similar to that worn by the captain. Among other presents +made by Cook to this friendly chief were two dogs, as there were none at +that time in the island; indeed, pigs appear to have been the only +four-footed animals in the possession of the inhabitants, although they +knew of the existence of dogs. Besides fowls, there were pigeons, +doves, parrots, and other birds. The whole island was thoroughly +cultivated, and produced bread-fruit, cocoanut trees, plantains, +bananas, shaddocks, yams, and other roots, the sugar-cane, and a fruit +like a nectarine. The roads also were so well laid out that there was +an easy communication from one part of the island to the other in every +direction. There were no towns or villages, but most of the houses +stood in the midst of plantations. They were neatly constructed, but +not much superior to those of the Society Islands. The floor, however, +was slightly raised, and covered with thick mats; the same sort of +matting serving to enclose them on the weather side, while on the +opposite they were left open. + +The ingenuity of this people was more especially exhibited in the +construction of their canoes, which were superior to any that had been +seen in the Pacific, though their tools were made of stone, bone, or +shells, like those of the other islanders. The canoes are built of +several pieces, sewed together in so neat a manner that on the outside +no join could be seen. They were of two kinds, double and single. The +single were from twenty to thirty feet long, and twenty-two inches broad +in the middle, with wedge-shaped heads and sterns, and decked over at +both ends, leaving only a third part open. They had outriggers, and +some few carried sails, but were generally impelled by short paddles, +the blades of which were broadest in the middle. The double canoes were +composed of two vessels, each from sixty to seventy feet long, and four +or five broad in the middle, and sharp at each end. They were fastened +together by strong beams placed across their gunwales, which were raised +for that purpose, and they were kept about seven feet apart. A platform +of boards was placed on these beams, and served as a deck. They were +very strongly built, and as the canoes themselves were also decked over, +they might be immersed to the very platform without sinking. On the +platform was a hut, serving as a cabin for the crew, and there was a +hatchway through the platform into the hulls by which the water was +baled out. The canoes also carried, as a movable fire-hearth, a square, +shallow trough of wood, filled with stones. They were rigged with one +mast, which could be easily lowered, and had a lateen sail of matting, +stretched on a long, slightly-bent yard, which could be quickly shifted +round when beating to windward. These vessels were capable of making +long voyages, and the Tonga islanders were in the habit of going to +Fejee, where they built canoes for the natives, and had probably +extended their voyages to the Navigators' Group, and possibly to New +Zealand itself. Indeed, when these vessels are seen, there is no +difficulty in understanding the means by which so large a number of the +islands of the Pacific have been peopled by the same race, some +retaining a portion of the civilisation their ancestors possessed, +others losing it altogether. + +The natives of Tonga were slightly tattooed, and their natural +complexion was of a light copper colour. The size of both men and women +was that of ordinary Europeans. The dress of both sexes consisted of a +piece of cloth or matting, wrapped round the waist and hanging below the +knees, while their shoulders and arms were uncovered, and usually +anointed. They wore their hair short, and had ornaments in the form of +necklaces, bracelets, and finger-rings, made of bone, shells, or +mother-of-pearl. Their cloth was of the same material as that of +Otaheite, but coarser and more durable, because glazed so as to resist +the rain. They used vegetable dyes of various colours--brown, purple, +yellow, red, and black. Their baskets, made of the same material as +their mats, were very beautiful. They had different kinds of musical +instruments: one of these was a sort of flute, which was made resonant +by the breath of the nostril; another was similar to Pandean pipes, and +composed of reeds; and a third was a drum made out of a heavy log. +Their mode of saluting was like that of the New Zealanders, by rubbing +noses together; and when anything was presented to them, they put it on +their heads as a sign of its being accepted. + +The government of the country was vested in a great chief or king, +called the Areeke; and there were other chiefs under him, as governors +of districts. It seemed pretty evident to the voyagers that the land of +the island was apportioned among certain dignitaries, for whom the rest +of the community worked, either as free labourers or slaves. When +purchases were made by the English, although the collected goods were +brought to market by a number of natives, one person uniformly received +payment, and no bargain was struck without his consent. + +Captain Cook was unable to obtain information respecting the religion of +the people, excepting that he saw their temples and tombs in his +excursions through the island. It was observed, however, that nearly +all the adults had lost the little finger of one hand, some of both +hands, and it was conjectured that the amputation was made at the death +of parents or other relations. The people also burnt incisions in their +cheeks, near the cheek-bone, probably also as a sign of mourning for the +dead. + +The expedition sailed from Tongatabu on October 7, Captain Cook's last +act being to send off by a canoe, to his friend Attago, some wheat, +peas, and beans, which he had neglected to give him with other seeds. A +course was then shaped for Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand, +there to take in wood and water; the commander intending afterwards to +continue his discoveries to the south and east. The next day the lofty +island of Pilstart was seen. It lies thirty-two leagues south by west +from the south end of Eua. On the 21st the north end of New Zealand was +made, and the ships ran down the east coast for the purpose of +communicating with the natives, Captain Cook being very anxious to give +them seeds and animals with which to stock the country. He had, +however, no opportunity of doing this till he reached Cape Kidnappers, +when a canoe came off with two men, who, by their dress and behaviour, +appeared to be chiefs. To the principal of these, pigs, fowls, seeds, +and roots were given, and a promise exacted that he would not kill the +animals. He seemed more delighted with a long spike-nail which was +offered him than with the animals. It was evident that the people on +the coast had not forgotten what occurred on the previous voyage, as the +first words they uttered on coming on board were, "We are afraid of the +guns;" yet they seemed to understand that if they behaved properly they +would be well treated. + +Soon after this a heavy gale sprang up, which lasted several days. +During its continuance the Adventure was separated from the Resolution, +and no more was seen or heard of her during the remainder of the voyage. +The stormy weather continued for some time, and the Resolution had all +her sails split before she at length came to an anchor in an inlet +discovered on the east side of Cape Teerawhitte. While she lay at +anchor, some natives came off who were tempted on board with the offer +of nails, which they highly valued. To one of the men two cocks and two +hens were given, but it was feared from his manner, on receiving the +present, that he would not take proper care of them. + +The next day, the gale having abated, the Resolution proceeded to Ship +Cove, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Here the sails were unbent to be +repaired, and tents were set up on shore. It was now discovered that +the bread, which was in casks, was greatly damaged. It was therefore +examined, the copper oven was set up, and the better portions re-baked. +The natives at once visited the ship, several of whom Captain Cook +remembered, especially an old man, Goubiah by name. Some of them +appropriated whatever they could find on shore unguarded, and, among +other things, a seaman's bag of clothes. These were, however, recovered +by the captain, who made, he says, a "friendly application for them," a +mode of proceeding which, with a due exhibition of power, might possibly +have succeeded on other occasions under similar circumstances. The +youngest of the two sows which Captain Furneaux had put on shore in +Cannibal Cove was seen with these people, but lame of a leg and very +tame. It was said that the other had been killed, but this was +afterwards found not to be the case. The people proved to be adepts in +thieving, and one chief, pretending to keep his countrymen at a proper +distance, with furious actions, was discovered putting a handkerchief +into his bosom which he had just picked out of Captain Cook's pocket. A +fresh party, after bartering fish for cloth very fairly, stole six small +water-casks, and then made off in a fright, leaving a boar, which had +been given them, and some of their own dogs. It is pleasant to have to +describe the persevering endeavours of Captain Cook to stock the country +with animals likely to prove useful to the inhabitants, little thinking +how largely his own countrymen would benefit by his labours, and that, +before a century would have passed by, vast flocks of sheep, and horned +cattle, and horses would be feeding on the widely extended pastures of +those fertile islands. + +Before sailing, when at length one day his visitors had left him, he +took on shore three sows and a boar, two cocks and two hens, carrying +them some little way into the woods, where they were left with a supply +of food to last them for ten or twelve days. The food was left that the +animals might remain in the woods, and not roam down to the shore, where +they might be discovered by the natives. Some cocks and hens were also +left in Ship Cove, but as the natives occasionally went there, there was +a risk of the birds falling into their hands. Two more goats were +landed, but the he-goat was seized with a sort of fit, and was supposed +to have rushed into the sea and been drowned, as his mate, who followed +him when he started off on his mad career, came back without him. The +vegetables which had been planted on the former visit had thriven, and +most of the potatoes had been dug up. + +All the time of the ship's stay a friendly intercourse was kept up with +the natives. The best way of securing peace with savages, Captain Cook +observes, is by first convincing them of your superiority, and then by +being always on your guard. A regard for their own safety will then +prevent them from being unanimous in forming any plan to attack you, +while strict honesty and kindly treatment will gain their friendship. +These principles mainly guided the great navigator in his intercourse +with the savages he visited, and it was owing to this that he was so +long able to pursue his useful discoveries. + +He had ample evidence on this occasion of the savage character of the +people by whom he was surrounded. A party of them had gone away on a +war expedition, and returned with the body of a youth whom they had +killed. Most of the body had been eaten, when one of the officers +brought the head and a portion of the flesh on board. This latter was +boiled and eaten by one of the natives with avidity, in the presence of +Captain Cook and most of the officers and ship's company. This horrid +proceeding had such an effect on some of the men, as well as on the +captain, as to make them sick. [Note 2.] It had a still greater effect +on the native of Otaheite, Oedidee. He at first became perfectly +motionless, and looked the personification of horror. When aroused from +this state he burst into tears, and continued to weep and scold by +turns, telling the New Zealanders that they were vile men, and that he +would no longer be their friend. He would not suffer them to touch him. +He used the same language to one of the crew who tasted the flesh, and +refused to accept or to touch the knife with which it had been cut. It +would be difficult to paint more perfectly than Captain Cook has done, +in the above description, the natural horror felt by human beings when +first becoming aware of the existence of cannibalism. It must be +remembered that the people of Otaheite and those of New Zealand +evidently sprang from the same race; and it is remarkable that the +latter should have become addicted to such an abominable practice, while +the former viewed it with unmitigated horror. Captain Cook says that he +did not suppose the New Zealanders to have commenced the practice for +want of food, as their coasts supplied a vast quantity of fish and +wild-fowl, and they had also numerous dogs which they ate. They had +also some vegetables and many land birds. He was not aware that at the +distance of a few days' sail there was a race of men equal, if not +superior, in intelligence to the New Zealanders, still more addicted to +the horrible practice, the accounts of which, thoroughly authenticated +as they are, make the heart sicken at the thought of the depths of +depravity to which human nature can sink. + +In vain the Adventure was looked-for. The unanimous opinion was that +she was not stranded, nor likely to be in any neighbouring harbour; and +as no actual rendezvous had been appointed, all hopes of seeing her +again during the voyage were abandoned. This, however, did not +discourage Cook from pursuing his researches in the South Pacific, in +which he intended to occupy the whole of the ensuing summer; while his +officers and crew expressed themselves willing to accompany him even +without their consort, wherever he might think fit to go. + +On the morning of November 26 the Resolution took her departure from +Cape Palliser, and steered south, inclining to the east. Heavy gales +were soon met with, and on the morning of December 12, in latitude 62 +degrees 10 minutes South and longitude 172 degrees West, the first +iceberg was seen, as also were many antarctic birds; while the explorers +were greeted with a fresh gale and thick haze and snow, a great sea, +rolling up from the north-west and south-west, at the same time showing +that there was no continent in that direction, unless at a great +distance. Two days afterwards more large ice islands and loose ice were +encountered; and with strong gales of wind, a heavy sea, dense +snow-storms and fogs, surrounded by masses of floating ice, the ship +pursued her course to the east. Christmas Day was calm, and, with a +hundred ice islands in sight, the ship was allowed to drift quietly on. +Providentially, the weather was clear, with a light air, and as there +was continued daylight she was prevented from falling aboard any of the +masses of ice. Had it been blowing, and as foggy as on the preceding +days, a miracle alone could have saved her from being dashed to pieces. +A full description of this part of the voyage would be tedious. +Especially so must the reality have been to the voyagers; and before +long all began to feel the effects of the bitter weather to which they +were exposed. Cook himself was dangerously ill, though he concealed his +malady from the crew. + +On January 30, at four in the morning, the clouds over the horizon were +perceived to be of an unusual snow-white brightness, denoting a wide +extent of ice. By eight the ship was close to its edge, when, from the +mast-head, it was seen to extend to the brink of the southern horizon, +as well as to the east and west; while ninety-seven ice mountains were +counted rising out of it. To penetrate this field was hopeless, and at +length the captain, to the satisfaction of all on board, announced his +intention of proceeding in search of the island of Juan Fernandez, said +to have been discovered a century before, in latitude 38 degrees, and +failing to find it, to look for Easter Island, or Davis Land, which had +been unsuccessfully sought for by Byron, Carteret, and Bougainville. +After this he purposed getting within the tropic, and had thoughts of +running as far west as the Tierra Austral del Spiritu Santo of Quiros. +In vain the island of Juan Fernandez was looked-for in the latitude in +which it was supposed to lie, and the conclusion arrived at was, that +though such an island might be in existence, it could occupy but a small +space in the ocean. + +The captain was now again taken ill of what he calls a bilious colic, +which was so severe as to confine him to his bed, the charge of the ship +devolving on Mr Cooper. Mr Patten, the surgeon, proved not only a +skilful physician, but an affectionate friend. A favourite dog +belonging to Mr Forster fell a sacrifice, it being killed and made into +soup for the captain, there being no other fresh meat in the ship. A +few fish were afterwards caught, which were very acceptable to him. + +Early on the morning of March 11, 1774, land was seen about twelve +leagues distant, which, to the joy of all on board, ultimately proved to +be the long-sought-for Easter Island. On getting near the coast, off a +sandy beach, two men in a canoe came off, and after sending up, by a +rope, a bunch of plantains, they returned to shore. This showed the +good disposition of the islanders, and gave the voyagers hopes of +obtaining refreshments. A better anchorage than this part of the coast +afforded having been found, the ship brought up here. On the English +landing, a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes were brought to +them; but the natives were such expert thieves that those on board could +scarcely keep their hats on their heads or anything in their pockets. A +supply of potatoes was obtained; indeed, this appeared to be the chief +production of the island. The natives had been digging them up as fast +as they could from a field close to the landing-place, till a person +arrived who appeared to be the rightful owner, and who drove all the +rest away. + +As Captain Cook was unable to walk any distance, he sent Lieutenants +Pickersgill and Edgecombe, with a party of men armed, to explore the +country. They were at first pressed on by a crowd of the natives, till +a man appeared, tattooed and painted, who drove them away, and then, +hoisting a piece of white cloth on a spear, marched forward at the head +of the party. A considerable portion of the island was barren and +stony, but in other parts were plantations of potatoes, plantains, and +sugar-canes. Water was very scarce, and hardly drinkable. Some huts +were found, the owners of which came out with roasted potatoes and +sugar-canes, and as the party marched in single file on account of the +narrow path, gave some to each man as he passed by. They distributed +water in the same manner. On the east side, near the sea, three ruinous +platforms of stone were met with, on each of which had stood four large +statues; but most of them had fallen down and been broken. Mr Wales +measured an entire one, and found it to be fifteen feet in length and +six feet across the shoulders. On the head of each statue was a large +cylinder of a red-coloured stone. One of these cylinders, which was +measured, was fifty-two inches high, and sixty-six in diameter. There +were others, however, very much larger. Some of them were perfectly +round, others had a cavity worked out, in the upper edge, for a quarter +of the way round. + +The opposite side of the island to this, to which their guide conducted +them, was full of these gigantic statues, some placed in groups, on +masonry, others single, fixed only in the earth. The latter were much +larger than the others. One which had fallen down was twenty-seven feet +high and eight feet across the shoulders; and yet this was much shorter +than one they found standing--its shade being sufficient to shelter +their party of nearly thirty persons from the rays of the sun at about +two o'clock. Near this place was a hill, from which a view of the whole +island was obtained. Not a creek large enough even for a boat was seen, +nor any indication of fresh water. In a small hollow on the highest +part of the island several cylinders were found, and Mr Wales was of +opinion that the quarry had been at that spot, and that after the +cylinders had been formed they were rolled down the hill. There must +have been great difficulty in raising them to the heads of the statues. +It was conjectured that this was done by raising a mound round each +statue and rolling up the stone on it, the mound being afterwards +removed. It must have required a considerable amount of mechanical +knowledge to bring the statues from the quarry, and to place them +upright. The natives knew nothing whatever as to the origin of the +statues, nor did they look on them with any respect, nor, indeed, seem +interested in any way in them. No quadrupeds were seen on the island, +but few birds, and only two sorts of low shrubs. + +The party were greatly inconvenienced in their walk by the attempts of +the natives to steal from them, and at length one man, who ran off with +a bagful of provisions, was fired upon with small shot and wounded +slightly. He dropped the bag, and seemed in no way offended at the +treatment he received. The people carried short clubs and also spears +with flint heads. The dress of the chiefs consisted of two pieces of +cloth, one round the waist and the other thrown over the shoulders; but +many were almost naked. The men wore their hair and beards short, with +a fillet ornamented with feathers round the head; while the women wore +the hair long, and had straw caps, shaped like a Scotch bonnet, on their +heads. Their habitations were low huts, built with sticks bent +overhead, and joined together so as to form an arch. The longest seen +was sixty feet long, and only four or five wide. Their canoes were very +poor, owing to the want of materials, and very few were seen. Captain +Cook considered that there were about six or seven hundred inhabitants +on the island. In colour, features, and language they were similar to +the inhabitants of the islands to the west, so that it was evident they +had sprung from the same race. + +The Resolution left Easter Island on March 16, and stood +north-west-by-north, and north-north-west, for the Marquesas, with a +fine easterly gale. Having reached the latitude of the group, the +course was changed to west. On April 5 first one island and then others +in succession were seen; and the explorers were satisfied that they had +reached the Marquesas, discovered by the Spaniards in 1595. The first +island seen was called Hood's Island, after the midshipman who +discovered it, and the others were Saint Pedro, Dominica, and Saint +Christina. The ship, after being nearly driven on the rocks, brought up +in port in the last-mentioned island. Directly afterwards, thirty or +forty natives came off in ten or twelve canoes, in the bow of each of +which a heap of stones was observed, while all the men had slings +fastened to their hands. It required some address to get them +alongside, but at last a hatchet and some spike-nails induced the people +in one canoe to venture under the quarter-galley. The rest then +followed, exchanging bread-fruit and fish for small nails. At sunset +they all returned to the shore. The next morning the natives returned +in greater numbers, with plantains, bread-fruit, and a pig, but soon +showed themselves ready to cheat, and to be expert thieves. Captain +Cook was going into the boat to look for a convenient place to moor the +ship, when, seeing too many natives on board, he warned one of the +officers on deck, saying that something would be stolen. Just then he +was told that an iron stanchion had been carried off from the opposite +gangway. He therefore ordered the officer to fire over the canoe till +he could get round in the boat, but to be careful not to kill any one. +But the noise made by the natives prevented this last warning from being +heard, and at the third shot the unhappy thief was killed. Two other +natives who were in the canoe leaped overboard, but soon got in again, +and threw away the stanchion. One of them sat baling the blood and +water out of the canoe, uttering a kind of hysteric laugh, while the +other, a youth of fifteen, looked at the dead body with a serious and +dejected countenance. The latter was found to be the son of the man who +had been killed. Immediately on this, the natives took to flight, but +on being followed by the captain into the bay the people in one canoe +were persuaded to come alongside the boat, and to receive some nails. +This restored their confidence in some degree, but soon afterwards they +attempted to carry off the buoy of the kedge anchor. A musket-shot on +this was fired at them, but it fell short, and they took no notice of +it; but a second bullet passing over them, they immediately let go the +buoy and made for the shore. + +The natives undoubtedly were bold fellows, for, notwithstanding the +effects of the firearms which they had witnessed, before long some more +ventured off. One of them appeared to be a person of consequence. His +dress was similar to that of the chiefs of Otaheite. Bound his head was +a fillet with the tail feathers of birds fixed in it, and standing +upright. He also wore ornaments of feathers round his legs and arms. +The women wore a petticoat of native cloth, and a broad fillet made of +the fibre of the cocoanut husk, with a piece of mother-of-pearl shell +the size of a tea-saucer in front. On either side were other ornaments +of tortoiseshell and mother-of-pearl, with feathers in the upper part. +The chief brought a pig, and was persuaded to come up to the side, but +soon went away. + +The party from the Resolution who went on shore were received with +courtesy by the natives; the captain was disappointed in not obtaining +the number of pigs he had expected. Some of the young officers, it +seemed, gave away thoughtlessly several articles which the natives +valued more than the nails, and thus spoilt the trade. Among those +highly coveted objects were some of the red feathers obtained at Tonga. + +The productions of the Marquesas Islands were similar to those of +Otaheite; the habitations were of a like character, but not so well +built, and the habits of the people were not so cleanly. The people +were considered the handsomest that had been met with during the whole +voyage. The men were generally tattooed, but the women and children, +who were not so, were thought to be as fair as many Europeans. Hogs +were the only quadrupeds, and cocks and hens the only tame fowls seen, +and these were not procured in any great number. Notwithstanding the +length of time the crew had been at sea previous to their arrival at the +Marquesas, yet, owing to the abundant supply of anti-scorbutic food, and +the watchful care of the surgeon, there was not a man seriously ill on +board. Captain Cook therefore determined to proceed on his voyage +without further delay. + +The Resolution therefore left the Marquesas on April 12, 1774; and ten +days afterwards she reached Otaheite, and anchored once more in Matavai +Bay. In the course of this passage several low coral islands or islets +had been passed, and one of them had been visited. This was the Island +of Tioakea, first of all discovered by Captain Byron, and formed one of +a group, called Saint George's Islands. After passing these, the +Resolution had fallen in with four other smaller islands, not set down +in any chart; and these Captain Cook had named Palliser's Isles, in +honour of his particular friend, Sir Hugh Palliser. + +Captain Cook's object in visiting Matavai Bay was that Mr Wales, the +astronomer, might correct the chronometers of the ship by a known +longitude. The first thing done, therefore, was to erect tents, and to +land the instruments required in this operation. + +As soon as the arrival of the voyagers was known, many of their old +friends paid them a visit, expressing great joy at seeing them. Among +others came Otoo, the king, with several chiefs, and a train of +attendants, who brought with them a dozen large hogs and a quantity of +fruit, which made them very welcome. A supply of red parrots' feathers +having been collected at Tonga, these were shown to the natives, and +took their fancy to such a degree that the principal people of both +sexes brought hogs, fruit, and everything the island afforded, in order +to obtain them. So exhausted was his stock-in-trade that, had it not +been for these feathers, Cook says he should have found it difficult to +supply his ship with the necessary refreshments. He had intended +remaining here only long enough to allow Mr Wales to take the +observations he desired, but he found so great an improvement in the +state of the country, and provisions so abundant, that he resolved at +once to repair and refit his ship. + +When Captain Cook on one occasion went to Opparree to pay King Otoo a +visit, a formidable fleet of three hundred double war canoes was found +drawn up along the beach, while a number of armed men were seen on the +shore. What could be the object of this armament it was difficult to +conjecture. The Englishmen, however, on landing, were received with +great courtesy; but Otoo was not to be found, and, greatly disappointed, +they returned on board. At length they were told that this fleet was +part of an armament intended to be sent against Eimeo, whose chief had +declared himself independent of Otaheite. + +The chief next in consequence to Otoo was Towha, who seemed to be a very +sensible man, and most friendly to the English. He showed it on a +trying occasion. A native had been caught stealing a water-cask, and +having been kept in irons on board, was returned on shore to be flogged. +Otoo, his sister, and others, begged that the man might be set at +liberty; but Cook explained that as he flogged any of his people who +stole from them, or behaved ill in any way, so in justice, and to +preserve peace between them, he must punish any natives who behaved ill +to him. The sentence was carried out, the natives looking on. On the +culprit being set at liberty, the people were going away, when Towha +called them back and addressed them, recapitulating what had been said +to Otoo, condemning their present bad habits, and advising a reformation +in future. The gracefulness of action and the attention with which he +was heard showed that he was no mean orator. After this the marines +went through their exercises and loaded and fired in volleys, to the +utter amazement of the natives, especially to those who had seen nothing +of the kind before. + +The next morning a small portion of the fleet of war canoes was observed +exercising, and Mr Hodges had the opportunity of sketching them. The +largest had about thirty rowers, the smaller only eighteen. The +warriors stood on the stage, and encouraged the rowers, or paddlers +rather, to exert themselves. Some youths were seated high up on the +carved stem above the steersman, with white wands in their hands, +apparently to look out and give notice of what they saw. The warriors +were completely equipped for war, and the quantity and weight of cloth +they had on them made it difficult to conceive how they could stand up +under it when fighting. A large quantity was wrapped round their heads +as turbans of helmets, to guard them from the blows of their enemies. +The turbans of some of the warriors were surmounted by small bunches of +shrubs covered with white feathers, intended as ornaments. On returning +to the shore all the rowers leaped out the moment the canoe touched the +ground, and, with the assistance of those on shore, hauled it up on the +beach. Each man then walked off with his paddle, and so rapidly was +everything done, that in less than five minutes there was no sign of the +canoes having been lately afloat. Afterwards, at the dockyard of King +Otoo, among many large canoes, two were seen in the course of building a +hundred and eight feet long. They were to be united so as to form one +double canoe; the largest, Cook says, he had seen in those seas. + +On another occasion an example was given of the way the warriors, in +attacking a place, are thrown on shore. Four or more canoes were lashed +side by side, and then each division paddled in so judiciously that they +formed one unbroken line along the shore. To do this they were directed +by a man who stood in the fore part of the centre vessel, with a long +wand in his hand, directing all their movements. The fleet was attended +by some small double canoes, called marias. On the fore part of each +was a sort of bed place with one division, capable of holding the body +of a man, intended for the reception of any chief who might be killed in +battle. Cook estimated, from the number of canoes he saw furnished by +each district, that the whole island could raise and equip one thousand +seven hundred and twenty war canoes, requiring sixty-eight thousand men, +calculating forty for each canoe. As these would not amount to a third +of the number of people in the island, he considered that it could not +contain less than two hundred and four thousand inhabitants. He was +convinced, from the vast swarms of people he met wherever he went, that +this estimate was not too great. This is possible; but war, disease, +and vicious habits had fearfully decreased the population before +Christianity was established among them. + +Otoo and his chiefs at first appeared very anxious that Captain Cook +should accompany them in their proposed expedition, and they begged him +to help them against their enemies. This he very properly declined +doing, but would have been glad to have accompanied them to witness the +mode in which they carried on their naval operations. It would have +been more in accordance with the character of a Christian people had the +English tried to reconcile the contending parties, and to prove to them +the advantages and blessings of peace. But such a thought does not +appear to have entered the mind of the sagacious navigator, or of his +companions. + +Cook's endeavours to benefit the islanders in other respects appeared +likely to be successful. Two goats had been left by Captain Furneaux. +They had had two kids, now nearly full grown, and the mother was also +again with kid. The animals were in excellent condition, and the people +seemed very fond of them. One of two sheep had, however, died, but +twenty cats were given to the natives, though it is difficult to +understand how they were likely to prove useful, unless mice had +threatened to overrun the island. + +During this visit a man from a distant part of the island made off with +a musket and effected his escape. The dread of the consequences to +themselves caused Otoo and several other chiefs to run away and hide +themselves, and the people were afraid to bring down provisions to the +ship. After a considerable amount of negotiations, and the delay of +nine days, the musket and some other articles which had been stolen +were, by the intervention of the chiefs, brought back to the tents, and +confidence was restored. + +Preparations were now made for leaving Otaheite. On May 11 a large +supply of fruit arrived from all parts, some of it sent by Towha, the +admiral of the fleet, with orders to his servants to receive nothing in +return. However, the captain thought fit to send an equivalent present +by Oedidee. That young native had come to the resolution of remaining +at Otaheite, but was persuaded to go on in the ship to Ulietea, his +native island. Nothing but Captain Cook's warning that it was very +probable he would be unable to return to the Pacific would have induced +him to leave the ship, so great was his affection for the English, and +his desire to visit their country. + +On the 12th old Oberea, who had been supposed by Captain Wallis to be +the queen of the island, came on board, and brought a present of pigs +and fruit, and soon afterwards Otoo appeared with a retinue and a large +quantity of provisions. Handsome presents were made in return, and the +visitors were entertained in the evening with fireworks. A succession +of broadsides from the great guns on another occasion must have still +more astonished the natives. + +Captain Cook waited in vain for the sailing of the fleet on the proposed +warlike expedition. It was evident that the chiefs considered, since +they could not obtain the assistance of the English, that they should be +more at liberty to act if left alone, and therefore, as long as the +Resolution remained, they continued to make excuses for not setting out. +Otoo's large canoe had been called, at Cook's request, the Britannia, +and he had presented to the king a grappling-iron, a rope, and an +English Jack and pendant for her. + +Several natives were anxious to accompany Captain Cook, but he firmly +resisted all their solicitations, from motives of humanity, knowing the +great probability that they would never return to their native land. At +length, on May 14, 1774, the anchor was hove up, and the ship proceeded +out of the harbour, Otoo remaining in his canoe alongside till the ship +was under sail. At that juncture, all the boats being hoisted in, a +gunner's mate, a good swimmer, slipped overboard, hoping to reach the +shore and remain behind. He was, however, seen before he got clear of +the ship; a boat was lowered, and he was brought back. He was an +Irishman by birth, but he had been long-absent from home, and he was +without any tie of kindred; Captain Cook says that he could not be +surprised at his wish to remain where he could enjoy not only all the +necessaries, but all the luxuries of life, in ease and plenty; and that +had he asked permission to remain it might, perhaps, have been granted. +He had formerly been in the Dutch service, and had come on board the +Endeavour at Batavia during the former voyage. + +On the 15th the Resolution anchored in O'Wharre Harbour, in the island +of Huaheine, and immediately old Oree, the chief, and several natives +came on board, when the former presented a hog and some other articles +with the usual forms. A friendly intercourse was kept up with Oree the +whole time of the visit, but several of the officers and men were robbed +on shore. There appeared to exist a gang of banditti who set their +chief at defiance, and robbed every one they met. Captain Cook, +however, landed and quietly took possession of a house with two chiefs +in it, who were kept as hostages till the articles were returned. On +another occasion, at the request of Oree, he, with a strong party of +armed men, landed, and went in pursuit of the thieves; but Oedidee, who +was with them, became alarmed, and warned the captain that they were +being led into an ambush to be destroyed. From the strict discipline, +however, kept up by the party, this (even should the natives have +intended treachery) was rendered impossible. In spite of these +drawbacks the people brought cocoanuts and other fruits, and two young +chiefs presented to the captain a pig, a dog, and some young plantain +trees, the usual peace offerings. Notwithstanding this good feeling, he +caused several volleys to be fired to show the natives the power and +effect of musketry, for the young officers and others who went on shore +shooting with muskets were so very inexpert in their use that they had +brought firearms somewhat into contempt. + +On the 21st a fleet of sixty canoes was seen steering for Ulietea. The +people on board them were Eareeoies, going to visit their brethren in +the neighbouring islands. They formed a secret society, and seemed to +have customs which they would not explain. Infanticide appeared to be +almost universal among them, and they had many other practices of a most +abominable character. Cava-drinking and acting plays seemed to be the +principal amusements of the chiefs of this island. + +Early on the morning of the 23rd the ship put to sea. The good old +chief Oree was the last man who left her. When told by the captain that +he should see him no more, he wept, and said, "Let your sons come; we +will treat them well." + +The next day, it having been calm all night, the Resolution reached +Ulietea. While warping into a secure berth, the captain's old friend, +Oreo, with several other persons, came off, bringing presents. On +returning the visit, the captain and his companions were met at the door +of the house by five old women, who had been cutting their heads with +sharks' teeth, and now, while the blood was streaming down their faces, +insisted on saluting their visitors. Directly afterwards they went out, +washed themselves, and returned, appearing as cheerful as any of the +company. A large number of people had collected on shore near the ship; +they were said to be Eareeoies, and they continued feasting for several +days. There, as at the other islands, plays were acted for the +amusement of the visitors. + +Ulietea was Oedidee's native island, and here he took leave of his +English friends, whom he left "with a regret fully demonstrative of his +esteem and affection; nor could anything have torn him from them but the +fear of never returning." The captain declares that he had not words to +describe the anguish of this young man when he went away. "He looked up +at the ship, burst into tears, and then sank down into the canoe." + +This young South Sea Islander is described as "a youth of good parts, +and of a docile, gentle, and humane disposition," and as one who would +have been--physically at least--a better specimen of the people than +Omai. It is to be feared that he returned to his home, after his +lengthened cruise with his English patrons, without having received any +real benefit from the intercourse. So far as can be learned, "no man +had cared for his soul." + +After leaving Ulietea, the Resolution proceeded westward on her voyage, +being cautiously navigated at night, and having all sails set in the +daytime. The first land seen was Howe Island, previously discovered by +Captain Wallis; the next was an island before unknown, to which was +given the name of Palmerston. + +On June 20 more land was in sight. This proved to be an island about +eleven leagues in circuit, and standing well out of the sea, having deep +water close into its shores. As this island was perceived to be +inhabited, Captain Cook was induced to go on shore with a party of +explorers, and endeavoured to open communication with the natives. They +were found, however, to be fierce and intractable, furiously attacking +the visitors with stones and darts. Two or three muskets discharged in +the air did not hinder them from advancing still nearer, and one of them +threw a long dart or spear which narrowly missed the captain, passing +close over his shoulder. The boldness and fury of this man nearly cost +him his life, for, aroused by the instinct of self-preservation, and +probably also by, momentary anger, Captain Cook raised a musket he +carried, and pointing it at his assailant, who was only a few paces off, +he pulled the trigger. Happily, the weapon missed fire, and the English +commander was spared the after-remorse of needless bloodshed, for the +explorers, or the invaders and intruders, as the natives considered +them, reached their boat, and afterwards their ship, unharmed. + +In consequence of the apparent disposition and the behaviour of the +people, the island received from Cook the name of Savage Island, a name +it still bears, although the inhabitants no longer merit the appellation +of Savage Islanders. + +After leaving this island, the ship's course was west-south-west, and on +June 25 a string of islands was seen ahead when the wind dropped. The +next morning more islands were seen and soundings found. The islands in +sight proved to be those of the Tonga group to which Cook had given the +name of the Friendly Islands. A canoe came boldly off, and the people +in her pointed out Anamocka, or Rotterdam, towards which the ship +proceeded, and anchored on the north side of the island. The natives +came off in their canoes in great numbers, and exchanged yams and +shaddocks for nails and old rags; but, as usual, some began to pilfer, +and one man got hold of the lead-line, which he would not relinquish +till fired at. + +On the captain and some of the officers going on shore, they were +received with great courtesy by the natives, who assisted in filling the +water-casks and rolling them down to the beach, contented with a few +nails as payment. When, however, the surgeon was afterwards out +shooting by himself, having been left on shore, a fellow seized his +fowling-piece and made off with it. Afterwards, when the watering party +were on shore, Mr Gierke's gun was snatched from him, and several of +the cooper's tools were carried off. This style of proceeding, if +allowed, would have hazarded the safety of all on board; the captain, +therefore, who had been summoned, sent off for the marines, while two or +three guns were fired from the ship to alarm Mr Forster, who was on +shore. Several of the natives remained, who acted with their usual +courtesy, and long before the marines arrived Mr Clerke's gun was +brought back. As the other was not restored, two large double +sailing-canoes were seized by the marines on their landing; and one man, +making resistance, was fired at with small shot. This showed the +natives that the English were in earnest, and the musket was returned; +but an adze had also been carried off, and it was insisted that this +also should be brought back. The chiefs thought that the captain wanted +the man who had been wounded, and whom they said was dead. Soon +afterwards he was brought up, stretched out on a board, and apparently +lifeless. Captain Cook was very much shocked at first, till, examining +the body, he found that the man was alive and only slightly hurt. His +wounds were dressed by the surgeon, who soon afterwards arrived, and a +poultice of sugar-cane was applied to prevent inflammation. A present +recompensed to some extent what the poor man suffered. No person of any +consequence was seen by the voyagers while they remained here. Several +lofty islands were seen in the group--among them Amattagoa, whose summit +was veiled in clouds, and was rightly supposed to be a volcano. Many of +the islands in the South Seas are volcanic, and in some of them the +volcanoes are in full activity. That of Kilanea, in the Sandwich +Islands, often presents a spectacle of awful fury and grandeur. + +After leaving the Friendly Islands, and calling, on July 1, at Turtle +Island, a brisk gale carried the ship on for some distance, till, on the +15th, high land was seen to the south-west. This was the _Australia del +Espirito Santo_ of Quiros; it also went by the name of the great +Cyclades. After exploring the coast for some days, the captain came to +an anchor in a harbour in the island of Mallicollo, where one of his +objects was to open friendly communication with the natives. + +A number of these came off, some in canoes, others swimming. They +exchanged arrows tipped with bone for pieces of cloth, while two who +ventured on deck received presents. The next morning so many made their +appearance, and with such increased confidence, that after a large +number had boarded the ship it was found necessary to refuse admittance +to others. Upon this one of the repulsed natives threatened to shoot a +boat-keeper in one of the boats. In the confusion that ensued Captain +Cook came on deck, when the savage turned his arrow toward him. Upon +this the captain, who had a gun in his hand loaded with small shot, +fired at his assailant, who, being but slightly wounded, still kept his +bow bent in a threatening attitude. Receiving the contents of a second +musket, however, he dropped his bow and paddled off with all speed. + +By this time others of the natives had begun to discharge their arrows; +neither did a musket fired over their heads frighten them. It was not +till they heard the thunder of a four-pounder that they were seriously +alarmed; then the natives on deck and in the cabin leaped overboard, +and, with those in the canoes, made their escape as fast as they could. +Directly after the gun was fired drums were heard beating on shore, +probably to summon the people to arms. + +The next day the captain landed with a green branch in his hand, and was +met by a chief who also carried one, and these being exchanged a +friendly intercourse was established. The English made signs that they +wished to cut down wood, and permission was granted to them by the +natives to do so. These people, however, set no value on nails or +anything their visitors possessed. They seemed unwilling that any one +should advance beyond the beach, and were only anxious to get rid of the +strangers. When the English left the shore the natives retired in +different directions. In the afternoon a man was seen to bring to the +beach a buoy which had been taken in the night from the kedge anchor. +On a boat being sent it was at once put on board, the man walking off +without saying a word, and this was the only thing which was stolen +while the ship lay there. Some houses, similar to those of the Friendly +Islands, were seen, with plantations of cocoanuts, plantains, yams, and +bread-fruit, and a number of pigs were running about. + +Other parts of the shore were visited, but the people kept aloof; and +not till the ship was under way did they come off, showing then every +disposition to trade, and acting with scrupulous honesty. Sometimes, +for instance, they had received articles, and not having given anything +in return, their canoes being shoved off by their companions, they used +every exertion to get back to the ship. They were the most ugly, +ill-proportioned people the explorers had yet seen; dark-coloured and +rather diminutive, with long heads, flat faces, and monkey-like +countenances. Their hair was black or brown, short and curly, but not +so soft or woolly as that of a negro. Their beards were strong, crisp, +and bushy. A belt round the middle curiously contracted that part of +the body, while, with the exception of a wrapper between the legs, they +went naked. The women wore a petticoat, and a bag over their shoulders +in which the children were carried; but none came near the ship. A +piece of white stone, an inch and a half long, with a slight curve in +it, was worn in a hole made through the nose. Their arms were clubs, +spears, and bows and arrows. Some of the officers were very nearly +poisoned by eating portions of two reddish fish, the size of large +bream, caught with hook and line. They were seized with violent pains +in the head and bones, attended by a scorching heat all over the body, +and a numbness of the joints. A pig and dog died from eating the +remainder. It was a week or ten days before the officers quite +recovered. The crews of Quiros had suffered in the same way. He had +named the fish Porgos. + +A number of islands were now passed, to which the names of Montagu, +Sandwich, Hitchinbrook, and Shepherd were given; the ship continuing +along the coast to the south-east. + +On August 3 the Resolution approached another island, and anchored about +a mile from the shore, when several natives attempted to swim off to +her, but a boat being lowered they returned. The next morning the +captain went off to the shore in search of wood and water, with presents +which he distributed among some people who appeared on the rocks which +line the coast. In return, they offered, as he supposed with a friendly +feeling, to drag the boat through the surf on shore; but he declined the +offer, wishing to have a better place to land at. This he found on a +sandy beach, in a bay where he could land without wetting his feet. To +this spot crowds followed him, headed by a chief, who made them form a +semicircle, while with only a green branch in his hand Cook stepped on +shore. The chief was loaded with presents, which he received +courteously; and when, by signs, water and fruit were asked for, he +immediately sent for some. Still, as all the people were armed with +clubs, spears, bows and arrows, the captain was suspicious of their +intentions, and kept his eye on the chief. Again signs were made by the +natives that they would haul the boat up, and just then the chief +disappeared among the crowd. On this, Cook stepped back into the boat, +making signs that he would soon return. The islanders, however, had no +intention of allowing him to depart, so while some of them laid hold of +the gang-board, and attempted to drag up the boat on to the beach, +others snatched at the oars, and tried to wrest them away from the +sailors. In this predicament, and seeing that neither expostulations +nor menaces were of any avail, the captain raised his musket, pointed it +at the chief, who had again made his appearance, and pulled the trigger; +but, as on a former occasion, the piece missed fire, or only flashed in +the pan. The savages then began throwing stones and darts, and shooting +their arrows. The captain now felt compelled to order his men to fire. +The first discharge threw the savages into confusion, but even a second +was hardly sufficient to drive them off the beach, and they then retired +behind trees and bushes, popping out every now and then to throw a dart. +Four lay to all appearances dead; but two managed to crawl behind the +bushes. Happily, half the muskets missed fire, or more would have been +wounded. One of the boat's crew was badly wounded in the cheek by a +dart, and an arrow shot from a distance struck Mr Gilbert. The +skirmish ended by the English making good their retreat. + +On the arrival of the party on board, the ship was got under way and +stood closer in shore; and presently two of the natives appeared with +two oars which had been lost in the scuffle. In a fit of exasperation, +probably on account of the treatment he had received, and of +mortification at his partial defeat, Captain Cook ordered a round shot +to be fired at the men, which, though it proved harmless, had the effect +of driving the men away. They left the oars, however, leaning against +some bushes. + +The whole of this unhappy affair seems to have been a series of +misunderstandings. At least, it is not difficult to conceive that the +natives were, at first, friendly disposed; that their offer to haul the +boat upon the beach may have been dictated by kind motives, and that +their subsequent conduct arose from what they might have conceived to be +the suspicious actions of their strange and uninvited visitors. As to +their being armed, and declining to lay down their arms, it is to be +remembered that the English had arms also, which they did not lay down. +It certainly does not seem improbable that if the chief of these poor +barbarians and the English captain could have interchanged a few words, +intelligible on both sides, and so convinced each other of their honest +intentions and wishes, the subsequent fracas might have been prevented; +but this, of course, was out of the question. It is to be feared, too, +that the superiority over all uncivilised nations which the English +voyagers proudly felt themselves to possess gave an air of contemptuous +defiance to their actions which the natives might resent. The firing of +that last shot was not unlikely (together with the previous scuffle) to +provoke feelings of deep enmity, and not only to rankle in the minds and +memories of those present, but to be handed down by tradition to the +next generation, and the next after that, so as to keep up both +detestation of all white men, and dread of their future visits. + +These remarks are not uncalled for, nor will they be considered as +without point when the name of the island is given--Erromanga; a name +full of painful associations to all who take an interest in missionary +enterprise, and in the advancement, by human instrumentality, of the +kingdom of the Redeemer. It was here that, sixty-six years afterwards, +the valuable life of one of the foremost in the ranks of modern +Christian missionaries, John Williams, was sacrificed to the hatred of +the whites of which we have just spoken. The proximate incentive to the +murder was revenge for some ill-treatment the natives had shortly before +received from a white man, a sandal-wood trader; but it is probable that +the commencement of their strong dislike to strangers may be traced to +the visit of the Resolution to their native island in 1774. + +After leaving Erromanga, the ship steered for another island, which +proved to be Tanna, being directed at night by a great light which was +seen at the east end of it, and which, in the morning, was discovered to +be that of a volcano in full activity. A harbour was found, and two +boats, well armed, were sent in to sound. Here the ship anchored. A +number of armed natives were seen on shore, and soon they began to come +off, some swimming, others in canoes. Some cocoanuts were thrown into +one of the boats, and cloths and other articles were given in return. +This induced more to venture alongside, when they proved themselves to +be most daring thieves; some attempted to knock off the rings from the +rudder, others tried to tear away the fly of the ensign, and a bold +effort was made to run away with the buoys. A musketoon fired over +their heads had the effect of driving them off. Even here there was an +exception to the rule. An old man continually came off to the ship with +fruit, evidently trying to ingratiate himself with the strangers. +Although a very strong party landed in the evening, it was clear to the +voyagers that the natives would have attacked them, had they not, to +avoid bloodshed, quickly embarked. As it was necessary to take in a +fresh supply of wood and water, the ship was warped in close to the +shore, both to overawe the natives, and more easily to get on board what +was wanted. The natives again quickly manifested their thievish +propensities. For instance, a man came off with a club, with which he +struck the ship's side in defiance, and then offered to exchange the +weapon for beads. No sooner, however, did he get them, than he made off +without giving up the club. + +Captain Cook had wished for an opportunity of showing the natives the +effect of firearms; some small shot were therefore sent after the thief, +and several musketoons were discharged. As this did not seem to produce +the desired effect, the Resolution was moored with her broadside to the +shore, with her guns placed so as to command the whole harbour. The +captain then landed, with a guard of marines and sailors, all well +armed, hoping by this means to overawe the natives, who assembled in +vast numbers on each side of the landing-place. Instead of being +frightened by the display of strength, they began to use such +threatening gestures that it was thought necessary to file upon them. +This was the signal for the guns to open from the ship. The savages at +once dispersed, but soon came back greatly humbled in manner. The old +man, whose name was Paowang, was the only one who stood his ground, and +was rewarded with gifts. Cook then drew a line on the ground, and +signified to the natives that they must not pass it. + +The captain had now every reason to believe that the natives were +induced to be submissive, and taking old Paowang into the forest, he +explained that he wanted wood, and asked permission to cut some down. +This was readily granted, the old man begging only that he would not cut +down any cocoanut trees. + +The watering party meanwhile filled the casks; but still the lower +orders were very troublesome. Some buckshot, fired at a man, at last +brought them to order, and now everything seemed to go on pleasantly. +Paowang even brought an axe and several other articles which had been +left on shore; indeed, Cook's demeanour seemed to have won the respect +of the savages, and it was no longer necessary to mark a barrier line, +as they did not press near the tents nor incommode the English when at +work. Yet, savages they were, for they acknowledged voluntarily that +they were cannibals, and asked their visitors if they also did not eat +the flesh of their enemies. Yet they could have no excuse for the +practice, as their island abounded with pigs, and fruit of all sorts. + +All this time the English were constantly on their guard; still they ran +no little risk, as they made some excursions up the country, when they +were threatened by parties of natives, who, however, retired when they +turned towards the harbour. It is manifest, however, that the natives +were not badly disposed, but were influenced by the very natural feeling +of jealousy at seeing strangers, whose object they could not comprehend, +attempting to penetrate their country. It would have been difficult to +convince untutored savages, who had been peppered with buckshot, and +fired at with bullets and cannon-balls, that their white visitors were +influenced by the purest feelings of philanthropy, and a disinterested +desire to do them good. Fortunately, the muskets supplied to the +Resolution must have been kept in very bad order, as they missed fire as +often as they went off, or more lives of savages would have been +sacrificed. There is no doubt, as has already been intimated, that +Captain Cook had no delight in exercising cruelty towards the natives of +the places he visited, and believed that he acted in self-defence when +he, as he would have said, was unfortunately called upon to wound and +perhaps to slay them. It may be added, also, that he frequently had +great trouble in restraining the ardour of his officers, who were not +troubled with so nice a conscience as the captain's regarding the lives +of the savages. + +On one occasion, for instance, some native boys (little mischievous +urchins, no doubt) who had got into a thicket near where a party were +cutting wood, and had thrown stones, were fired at by some of the petty +officers. The captain was very much displeased at so wanton a use being +made of firearms, and took measures, as he thought, to prevent it for +the future; but not long afterwards, to his horror, he saw a sentry +level his musket, and before he could cry out, the soldier had fired and +shot a native dead. The marine's only excuse was that he saw a native +bending his bow, an act they often performed without intending to shoot. +After all, the sentry did not kill the man who bent the bow, but +another who was standing near. + +Among the excursions made by the officers was one towards the volcano, +which, however, they could not reach. It was in such furious eruption +that the air was filled with dust and ashes, and when it rained they +were covered with mud. On their way they passed a spot emitting columns +of smoke, and near the harbour hot springs were discovered; a +thermometer placed in one of them rose to 170 degrees. + +Although the people of this island had no notion of the use of iron, +they were not so savage as at first appeared; their plantations were +carefully cultivated, and produced sugar-canes and yams, bread-fruit, +plantains, and cocoanuts. They had, however, one of the chief +characteristics of savages--the women carried all the burdens, and were +compelled to do every description of hard work. Though dark, they had +not the peculiarities of the negro race, but they made themselves darker +than they were by painting their skins. They differed in many respects +from the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands, both in appearance and +language. Their dwellings were of some size, but had no walls, being +merely roofs--looking like those of English barns taken off their walls +and placed on the ground. Their canoes were tolerably well constructed, +but though their shores abounded with fish, they had no notion of +catching them with nets or lines, the only way being to spear them as +they swam by. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +On the morning of August 20 the ship left Resolution Harbour, [so-called +by Captain Cook, because the Resolution had anchored there,] in Tanna, +and continued the survey along the coasts of this extensive group of +islands. A large number of natives were seen at the south-west side of +Mallicollo, and on the opposite shore a brief communication was held +with apparently another race of people, who came off in numerous small +outrigger canoes. Though gifts were handed to them, they could not be +induced to come up the side, or even to take hold of a rope. + +The scenery of the coast in all directions was much admired; the +vegetation was most luxuriant; every hill was chequered with +plantations, and every valley was watered by a sparkling stream. The +survey of the group being at length completed, the Resolution stood away +towards New Zealand. The supposed continent of Quiros had dwindled into +a small island, and, as Captain Cook took his departure from the +south-west point in latitude 15 degrees 40 minutes, longitude 165 +degrees 59 minutes, he named it Cape Lisbourne. The Resolution +continued her course to the south-west, from September 1 till the 4th, +when land was discovered bearing south-south-west, and extending round +for some leagues. Breakers were seen half-way between the ship and the +shore, and inside them were several canoes, evidently coming off, but as +night fell they returned. The night was spent in standing off and on +the land, and the next morning, the boats having discovered a channel +through the reef, the ship stood in and came to anchor. She was +immediately surrounded by a number of natives, who came off in eighteen +canoes. They were entirely unarmed, and apparently well disposed. Some +presents were thrown to them, for which they offered two stale fish in +return, and, confidence being established, numbers crowded on board. +Some were asked into the cabin to dinner. They showed, however, no +curiosity to taste the pea-soup, salt beef, or pork, but ate some yams. + +Except a curious wrapper generally in use these people were entirely +naked. They seemed intelligent, and examined with considerable interest +the goats, hogs, dogs, and cats on board, which, it was evident, they +had never before seen. They valued spike-nails and cloth of all +colours, but red cloth they preferred. A young chief was seen in one of +the canoes, but did not come on board. After dinner, Captain Cook, +accompanied by a native, landed with two armed boats' crews. The beach +was thronged with people, and the native pointed out those to whom +presents should be given, mostly old men; among them was the chief, +Teabooma, who soon calling for silence addressed the people, apparently +in favour of the strangers. All the chiefs in succession made speeches, +the old men giving a grunt and a nod of approbation at the end of each +sentence. The captain kept his eyes on the people all the time, and was +completely convinced of their good intentions. Having made signs that +water was wanting, his native friend conducted them along the coast, +lined with mangroves, to a creek, on going up which, above the +mangroves, a straggling village appeared; the ground around being laid +out in well cultivated plantations of sugar-canes, plantains, yams, and +other roots, watered by rills conducted from the main stream, whose +source was in the hills. Here was an abundance of fresh water. Among +other things, some roots were seen baking in an earthen jar, holding +from six to eight gallons, apparently manufactured by the natives. On +their way Mr Forster shot a duck, which the native begged to have, that +he might explain to his countrymen how it was killed. The party +returned on board at sunset, convinced that they were not likely to +obtain provisions at the place, as it did not appear to produce more +than the inhabitants themselves required, although it was clear that +they were ready to give what they could, for a more obliging, civil, +pleasant people had not been met with during the voyage. Hundreds came +on board the ship, but not a theft was committed. One of them, who had +attached himself to Captain Cook, brought some roots; a few of the +others had weapons, such as clubs and darts, which they willingly +exchanged for nails and pieces of cloth. A present had been made up for +Teabooma, who, however, slipped out of the ship, and lost it. A good +watering-place was found, not far off, up a creek; but as only a small +boat could enter it the casks were rolled over the beach, and put on +board the launch. Plenty of fuel could also be procured. + +An excursion on shore gave the explorers a better idea of the island +than they could otherwise have possessed. They were accompanied by +several natives, the numbers increasing as they advanced, till they had +a large _cortege_. Reaching the summit of a rocky hill, the sea was +observed in two places on the opposite side between the heights, thus +enabling them to calculate the width of the island. Below them was a +large valley, through which ran a river, on whose banks were several +villages and plantations, while the flat land which lay along the shore +appeared to great advantage; the winding streams running through it, the +plantations, the little straggling villages, the variety in the woods, +the shoals on the coast, with the blue sea and the white breakers, made +up a very beautiful and picturesque scene. The country in general bore +a strong resemblance to parts of New Holland, under the same latitude; +several of its natural productions appeared to be the same; while the +forests, as in that country, were without underwood. The general aspect +of the island was, however, that of a dreary waste; the sides of the +mountains and other places being of hard rock, or of a thin soil baked +by the sun. Even these unpromising spots were, however, covered with a +coarse grass, which though of no use, as there were no cattle to feed on +it, would afford pasture to numberless sheep if they were to be +introduced into the island. There was a good supply of fish on the +coast; but one day a somewhat ugly-looking one being dressed for supper, +the captain and the two Mr Forsters, though they did but taste the +liver and roe, were seized with a numbness and weakness over their +limbs. An emetic and a sudorific considerably relieved them by the +morning, but a pig which ate the fish died. A native who had sold the +fish did not warn the buyer, though its poisonous character seems to +have been known to the people, for, on seeing the skin hanging up the +next morning, they expressed their utmost abhorrence of it, and +intimated that it was not fit to eat. The captain was anxious to +benefit the people as far as his short stay would allow; he, therefore, +presented a dog and a bitch to Teabooma, who seemed delighted with the +gift; indeed, he could scarcely suppose that the animals were for him. +A boar and a sow were also intended for him, but as he was not then to +be found they were given to another chief, or head man, and his family, +who promised to take care of them. These people had made some advance +out of the purely savage state. Their dwellings were circular, very +thickly thatched, something like a beehive, and very close and warm. +Many had two fireplaces, and some had two storeys, spread with mats and +grass. As the entrance was very small, and there was no other outlet +for the smoke, the heat was intolerable. It was strange that natives of +so hot a climate should delight in all the extra heat they could get. +Outside the huts were little pyramids, five together. On the point of +the pyramids the clay pots in which they cooked their food were placed, +not upright, but on the sides, the fire being lighted beneath. The +canoes of the islanders were large, but rude and clumsy in build; and +they constructed double canoes formed of the trunks of two trees +fastened together, much in the fashion of the other double canoes of the +Pacific. They had sometimes one, and sometimes two, lateen sails, +composed of pieces of matting, the ropes being made of the coarse +filaments of the plantain tree. When they could not sail they were +propelled by sculls, the handles of which rose, nearly upright, four +feet above the deck. + +On standing down the coast, some objects were seen which the scientific +gentlemen insisted were basaltic pillars, like those of the Giant's +Causeway in Ireland, contrary to the opinion of the captain, who held +that they were trees of a peculiar growth. An island was discovered to +the south of the large island, and the name of the Isle of Pines was +given to it, on account of the number of tall trees growing thereon, and +which the philosophers still maintained were basaltic pillars. It was +not without some difficulty that, at length, the ship got near enough to +the Isle of Pines to enable the captain, with a party of officers, to +land on one of the islets connected with it. The objects observed were +found to be a species of spruce pine, admirably fitted for masts and +spars. After dinner, therefore, two boats went on shore with the +carpenter and his crew, and as many spars as were required were cut +down. It was of this tree that the natives made their canoes. The +island on which the party landed was called Botany Island. + +The Resolution got under way on October 1. Soon afterwards a gale +sprang up, which, in spite of all the exertions which could be made, +rendered the further survey of the group impossible. She therefore bore +away for New Zealand. + +New Caledonia, thus discovered, Captain Cook considered to be, with the +exception of New Zealand, the largest island in the South Pacific Ocean, +being about eighty-seven leagues long, extending from the north-west to +south-east, that is, from latitude 19 degrees 37 minutes to 22 degrees +30 minutes South, and from longitude 163 degrees 37 minutes to 167 +degrees 14 minutes East, although its width is nowhere very +considerable. + +The ship stood on about west-south-west till October 10, when land was +discovered--an island of good height, five leagues in circuit, to which, +as a compliment to the family of Howard, the name of Norfolk Island was +given. The ship stood in, when after dinner two boats landed without +difficulty behind some large rocks. The island was found to be +uninhabited, and probably no human being had ever before set foot on its +shore. Many trees and plants common in New Zealand were observed, +especially the flax plant, which here appeared to be more luxuriant than +in any part of that country. A spruce pine also grew in abundance, and +to a great size, and there were also found a number of cabbage palms. +They had large pinnated leaves, and the cabbage is, properly speaking, +the bad of the tree. Each tree produces but one crown, which grows out +of the stem, and by cutting this out the tree is destroyed. As many as +could be collected were carried on board, and proved very welcome. The +voyage to New Zealand was then continued. + +On October 17 Mount Egmont was seen, and the next day the ship anchored +at the entrance of Ship Cove, a strong wind preventing her getting in. +The day after she warped up, and being moored, the usual preparations +were made for carrying on operations on shore. The forge was set up, +and coopers' and sail-makers' tents were erected. For several days no +natives appeared. The gardens were visited, and several of the plants +were in a flourishing condition. When the natives did appear their +conduct was very strange. At first they kept at a distance, with their +weapons in their hands; but when they recognised Captain Cook and his +officers, they danced and skipped about like madmen, though even then +they would not let any of their women come near. + +Several of them talked about killing, but their language was so +imperfectly understood that no meaning could at first be gathered from +what they said. The following story was made out, however, before +long:--The natives said that a ship like the Resolution had been lost in +the strait, and that some of the people got on shore, when the natives +stole their clothes, for which several were shot; that afterwards, when +the sailors could fire no longer, the natives rushed in and killed them +with their clubs and spears, and ate them. The narrators declared that +they themselves had no hand in the matter, which occurred at some +distance along the coast. + +Friendly relations were at once established with the natives the English +had first met, who brought a good supply of fish, which they willingly +exchanged for Otaheite cloth. Cook's training in the merchant service +had given him some useful notions with regard to mercantile principles, +and in many other cases, as well as in this, he purchased articles with +the view of taking them to another market, where their value would be +increased. Still, though Cook was trying to do the natives all the good +in his power, it was evident that they were shy of the English. Their +more intimate friends at last acknowledged that the Adventure had been +there, and though the captain's mind was relieved with regard to her, he +still feared that some disaster had occurred to another vessel along the +coast. He probably was, as usual, on his guard, and careful in +preventing any causes of dispute between his people and the natives, or +he himself might have had to experience the effects of New Zealand +treachery. + +On November 10 the Resolution left Queen Charlotte's Sound for the last +time, and steered south-by-east, with a fine wind, Cook's intention +being to get into latitude 54 degrees or 55 degrees, and to cross the +ocean nearly in those parallels, thus to pass over those parts which +were left unexplored the previous summer. + +On the evening of December 17 the west coast of Tierra del Fuego, near +the entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, was made; and now Captain +Cook says that he had done with the South Pacific, but he had a sound +ship and a healthy crew, and he resolved to accomplish some more work +before returning home. Among other things, he made a survey of the +coasts he was now on. Nothing could be more desolate than those shores. +They seemed entirely composed of rocky mountains, without the least +appearance of vegetation, the mountains terminating in horrible +precipices, while their craggy summits shot up to a vast height. The +mountains seen inland were covered with snow, but those nearer the sea +coasts were free from it. The former were supposed to belong to the +mainland of Tierra del Fuego, while the latter were probably islands. + +The ship at length was brought to an anchor, on December 20, in one of +the numerous harbours in which the otherwise inhospitable-looking coast +abounds. This was called Christmas Sound, as the ship remained at +anchor during Christmas Day. An abundance of wild-fowl were shot here, +so that the Christmas fare consisted of roast and boiled geese, goose +pie, goose stew, and goose in every form which could be thought of, +accompanied, in the cabin, by some Madeira, the only article of their +provisions which had improved by keeping. + +Some natives made their appearance here in nine canoes. They were a +little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race. They were almost naked, +their clothing being merely two or three seal-skins, sewed together to +form a cloak reaching to the knee. Most of them had only one seal-skin, +and the women had a sort of apron, but in other respects were clothed +like the men. Some young children were seen entirely naked, so that +they must be inured to cold and hardships from their infancy. They had +with them bows and arrows, and darts, or rather harpoons, made of bone, +fitted to a staff. These were probably intended to kill fish and seals, +or perhaps whales, as the Esquimaux do. That they were accustomed to +the use of train oil the noses of the officers had powerful evidence; +indeed, it was far from pleasant to approach them. Their canoes were +made of bark, and in each was a fire, round which the women and children +huddled. There was also a large seal-skin, perhaps to form a covering +to a hut on shore. As these people seemed well acquainted with +Europeans, it was considered probable that they moved during the winter +more to the northward. They called themselves Pecheras, at least that +word was continually in their mouths. "Of all the people I have ever +seen, these Pecheras are the most wretched," says Cook; "they are doomed +to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in the world, without +having sagacity enough to provide themselves with such conveniences as +might render life in some measure more comfortable." Yet, unattractive +as were these people, they had souls as precious in the sight of a +loving Saviour as those of the more intelligent and attractive +inhabitants of Otaheite. It was in the attempt to carry the glad +tidings of salvation to people such as these that the noble-minded +Captain Allan Gardiner lost his life; and it is for the sake of people +sunk as low as were these in the scale of humanity that missionaries are +labouring in many other parts of the earth. + +A good supply of wood and water having been obtained at Christmas Sound, +the Resolution got under way again on the 28th, and steered towards Cape +Horn, which she rounded the next morning. She now steered East by North +a half East for the Straits of Le Maire, with a view of looking into +Success Bay, to ascertain if the Adventure had been there. A boat, +commanded by Lieutenant Pickersgill, was sent on shore, but no traces of +her were found. A notice, however, was left nailed to a tree, in case +Captain Furneaux should afterwards touch there. Some natives appeared +who behaved very courteously to Lieutenant Pickersgill, and made signs +to him to bring in the ship. The bay was full of whales and seals; +indeed, great numbers had been seen in the straits. At last, the +Resolution came to an anchor near an island, on which seals had been +observed. After dinner three boats were hoisted out and landed with a +large party of men, some to kill seals or sea-lions, and others to kill +or catch birds, fish, or whatever came in their way. The sea-lions, +with which the island was covered, were so unaccustomed to the sight of +man that they did not attempt to escape, and were knocked on the head +with sticks and clubs. The only danger was by getting between them and +the water, when, as they came floundering on, they were likely to knock +down and rush over any one thus placed. A large supply of sea-lions, +bears, geese, and ducks was soon obtained. The old lions were killed +solely for the sake of their blubber, from which oil was extracted, for +their flesh was abominable, but that of the cubs was considered very +good, and even that of the lionesses was not amiss. + +Once more, on January 3, 1775, the Resolution was at sea, steering an +easterly course, in search of land said to exist in about the latitude +53 degrees or 54 degrees. At nine o'clock on the morning of the 13th +land was seen by a man named Willis. At first it was taken for an +iceberg, but on their drawing nearer the appearance changed, and +soundings being found, with a muddy bottom, at one hundred and +seventy-five fathoms, there was no doubt that it was really land, and +the name of the discoverer was given to it. Passing between Willis +Island and another islet, called Bird Island, land was seen extending +for a considerable distance. The ship ranged along it, about a league +from the shore, for part of two days, till an inlet appeared, towards +which the ship steered. Instead, however, of the ship going in, a boat +was hoisted out, and the captain, with Mr Forster and others, embarked +in her to survey the bay. They landed in three different places, +displayed the British flag, and took possession of the country in his +Majesty's name, under a discharge of small arms. + +The appearance of the territory thus added to the dominion of Great +Britain was not attractive. The head of the bay, as well as two +portions on either side, consisted of perpendicular ice cliffs of +considerable height. Pieces were continually breaking off and floating +out to sea, and even while they were in the bay huge masses fell which +made a noise like the discharge of a cannon. The inner parts of the +country were not less savage and horrible. Wild rocks raised their +lofty summits till they were lost in the clouds, and even the valleys +were covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree was to be seen, nor even +a shrub big enough to make a toothpick. The only vegetation met with +was a coarse, strong-bladed grass, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a +plant like moss, which sprang from the rocks. + +Seals or sea-bears were pretty numerous, and so were penguins; some very +large, weighing from twenty-nine to thirty-eight pounds, were brought on +board. At first it was hoped that the land now discovered was part of a +great continent, but by going partly round it it was discovered to be an +island of about seventy leagues in circuit, and the name of the Isle of +Georgia was given to it. It seemed to answer very little purpose, for +though the island lies between the latitudes of 54 degrees and 55 +degrees, the whole coast was a mass of ice and snow even in the middle +of summer. "The disappointment I felt did not, I must confess, affect +me much," says Cook, "for to judge of the bulk by the sample, it would +not be worth the discovery." Various other islets and rocks were seen, +when, believing that no other discovery of importance would be made +thereabouts, on January 25 the Resolution continued her course, steering +east-south-east. + +On the 31st several islands and a considerable extent of land were +discovered, to which the name of Sandwich Land, or Southern Thule, was +given, as it was the most southern land then known. It showed a surface +of great height, everywhere covered with snow. While the Resolution was +close in with this coast, the wind fell, and left her to the mercy of a +great westerly swell, which set right upon the shore. A line of two +hundred fathoms found no bottom. The weather became hazy; the coast +could not be seen. A most fearful wreck now seemed inevitable, when the +fog cleared away, and a point (Cape Bristol) appeared, bearing +east-south-east, beyond which no land could be seen. This discovery +relieved the explorers from the dread of being carried by the swell on +to one of the most horrible coasts in the world. After undergoing this +and similar fearful risks, it was scarcely necessary for Cook to make +any apology for leaving this inhospitable region, and proceeding in +search of the long-sought-for Cape Circumcision. He sailed over and +round the spot where it was said to lie, and became thoroughly convinced +that no cape, indeed no land, lies thereabouts. He was soon sure that +if there was land it would only be a small island, from the long +southerly swell which was found in that latitude. + +What we are most struck with is the hardihood and fine seamanship +displayed by Captain Cook and his officers in this run across the +Antarctic Ocean. It was the summer season, and the nights were short; +but they had to encounter storms and bitter cold, ice, and snow, and +hail, with the risk, at any moment, of running on an iceberg or some +hidden rock; but still greater was the risk when such inhospitable +shores as those of Tierra del Fuego, or Staten Island, or the Isle of +Georgia, or Southern Thule were to be explored. + +A course was now steered for the Cape of Good Hope, greatly to the +delight of all on board. On March 16 two sails were seen in the +north-west, standing westward, one of them under Dutch colours, a sign +that they were once more approaching civilised regions. In the evening +land was seen. In pursuance of his instructions, the captain now +demanded of the officers and petty officers the log-books and journals +which they had kept, and which were sealed up for the inspection of the +Admiralty. The officers and men were also especially charged not to say +where they had been until they had received the permission of the Lords +of the Admiralty. + +Several other ships were now met with, one of which proved to be the +True Briton, Captain Broadly, from China, bound direct home. With that +liberality for which commanders of East India Company's ships were +famed, Captain Broadly sent on board the Resolution a present of a +supply of fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, which were most +acceptable. A heavy gale kept the Resolution from entering the harbour. +At length, however, on Wednesday, March 22, according to the ship's +reckoning, but with the people on shore Tuesday, the 21st, she anchored +in Table Bay. Finding an East India Company's ship homeward bound, +Captain Cook sent by her a copy of his journal, charts, and other +drawings, to reduce the risk of the result of his enterprise being lost. +He also found here a letter from Captain Furneaux, from which the +mysterious conduct of the natives of Queen Charlotte's Sound was +completely explained. It was as follows:--On December 17, 1773, the +large cutter, with ten men under charge of Mr Rowe, a midshipman, had +been sent on shore to gather greens for the ship's company, with orders +to return that evening. On their non-appearance another boat was sent, +under the command of Lieutenant Barney, when the mutilated remains of +the cutter's crew were discovered, some parts scattered about on the +beach, and others carefully packed with fern leaves, in baskets, +evidently intended for the oven. It was clear that some quarrel had +arisen, and that after the unfortunate men had discharged their muskets +they had been clubbed by the natives. It was afterwards discovered, by +the acknowledgment of the natives, that they themselves had been the +aggressors, having stolen some of the seamen's clothes, and that then +they pretended to make up the quarrel, but that finding the party seated +at dinner, and utterly unsuspicious of evil, they had rushed down on +them and killed them all. After this misfortune the Adventure sailed +for the Cape of Good Hope, and thence returned to England. + +Captain Cook speaks of the great courtesy and kindness he received from +the Dutch authorities, as well as from the residents, and of the +abundance of good provisions which he obtained. On April 27, the +repairs of the ship being completed, the Resolution sailed in company +with the Dutton, East Indiaman, for Saint Helena, and was saluted with +thirteen guns. She was also saluted by a Spanish and Danish Indiaman as +she passed them--she, of course, returning the salutes. + +At daylight on May 15 the island of Saint Helena was sighted. It, at +that time, belonged to the East India Company, and was laid out chiefly +in pasture, in order that their ships might here obtain supplies of +fresh meat. + +The Resolution anchored off Ascension on May 28, and found some vessels +from America come to load with turtle. A good supply was taken on +board, and on the 31st she again sailed. On June 9 the island of +Fernando de Moronha was sighted, and was found to be in possession of +the Portuguese. Without anchoring, the Resolution continued her course +for the Azores, at one of which, Fayal, she anchored on July 13. Among +several vessels there was one belonging to the place, which had taken in +a cargo of provisions at the Amazon, for the Cape de Verde Islands, but +had been unable to find them--a specimen of Portuguese navigation not at +all singular even in later days. The Resolution sailed on the 19th, +passing the island of Terceira, and on the 29th made the land near +Plymouth, and the next morning anchored at Spithead. The same day +Captain Cook landed at Portsmouth, with Messrs. Wales, Forster, and +Hodges, and set off for London. He had been absent from England three +years and eighteen days, and during that time had lost but four men, and +only one of them by sickness. This was owing, under Providence, to the +very great care taken of the health of the people. All means were used +to induce the crew to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, and clothes +clean and dry. The ship, once or twice a week, was aired with fires, +and when this could not be done she was smoked with gunpowder mixed with +vinegar and water. There was frequently a fire in an iron pot at the +bottom of the well. The ship's coppers were kept carefully clean, fresh +water being taken on board whenever practicable. Of remedies against +scurvy the sweet-wort was proved to be most valuable. At the slightest +appearance of the disease two or three pints a day were given to each +man. A pound of sour-krout was supplied to each man, twice a week, at +sea. Preparations of potatoes, lemons, and oranges were served out with +good effect. Sugar was found useful, as was wheaten flour, while +oatmeal and oil were considered to promote the scurvy--such oil, at +least, as was served to the Navy. Olive oil would probably have had a +different effect. Captain Cook thus concludes his journal of the +voyage:--"But whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, +it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of +attention to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an +observation which facts enable me to make, that our having discovered +the possibility of preserving health amongst a numerous ship's company +for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such +continued hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in +the opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a +southern continent shall have ceased to engage the attention and to +divide the judgment of philosophers." + +In concluding this account of Captain Cook's second voyage round the +world it is well, while admitting the value of the discoveries made, and +admiring the perseverance and general prudence and kindness of the +discoverer, to express deep regret that the scrupulous and unremitting +care exercised over the physical health of the crew was not, with equal +assiduity and anxiety, manifested in respect of their spiritual health. +Those were not the days in which the souls of sailors were much cared +for; but it may be supposed that the character of this expedition, +together with the unusual number of educated gentlemen on board, +furnished facilities for Christian exertion which certainly were not +improved. So far, indeed, as the existing records of this voyage inform +us, we are led to the conclusion that instead of setting an example of +morality and virtue to the ignorant heathen they visited, it would, in +many instances, have been better for the heathen had they never known +these so-called Christians. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. Among sailors, a ship is said to be _crank_ when the rigging is +too weighty for the hull, so as to risk being upset. + +Note 2. It seems strange that this "horrid proceeding" should have been +permitted on board the English ship; and that Captain Cook, with his +well-established character, should have stood by and witnessed it, is +unaccountable. + + + +CHAPTER FOUR. + +THIRD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY, FROM JULY 1776 TO OCTOBER 1778. + +It will be remembered that Captain Cook landed in England on July 30, +1775. He at once received well-merited acknowledgments of the services +he had rendered to his country. On August 9 he received post rank, and +three days afterwards was nominated a Captain in Greenwich Hospital, an +appointment that would have enabled him to spend the remainder of his +days in honourable retirement. In February of the following year he was +elected a Fellow of the Royal Society; and on the evening of his +admission, March 7, a paper was read, in which he gave a full account of +the various means he had adopted for the preservation of the health of +his crew. + +The importance of this paper, and the way in which it was received, will +be best understood by those who have read accounts of Lord Anson's and +other voyages, where the scurvy made fearful havoc among the ship's +companies. In consequence of this paper, it was resolved by Sir John +Pringle, the President of the Council of the Society, to bestow on +Captain Cook the gold medal known as the Copley Annual Medal, for the +best experimental paper of the year. Cook was already on his third +voyage before the medal was bestowed, though he was aware of the honour +intended him; and his wife had the pleasure of receiving it. + +Sir John Pringle's words are worthy of repetition. Having pointed out +the means by which Captain Cook, with a company of a hundred and +eighteen men, performed a voyage of three years and eighteen days, in +all climates, with the loss of only one man from sickness, he proceeds! +"I would now inquire of those most conversant with the study of the +bills of mortality, whether, in the most healthful climate, and in the +best conditions of life, they have ever found so small a number of +deaths within that space of time. How great and agreeable, then, must +our surprise be, after perusing the histories of long navigations in +former days, when so many perished by marine diseases, to find the air +of the sea acquitted of all malignity; and, in fine, that a voyage round +the world may be undertaken with less danger, perhaps, to health, than a +common tour in Europe." He concludes: "For if Rome decreed the civic +crown to him who saved the life of a single citizen, what wreaths are +due to that man who, having himself saved many, perpetuates in your +Transactions the means by which Britain may now, on the most distant +voyages, preserve numbers of her intrepid sons--her mariners, who, +braving every danger, have so liberally contributed to the fame, to the +opulence, and to the maritime empire of their country?" + +This address ought to be read by all British shipowners and +ship-masters. They possess ample means of preventing the approach of +the scurvy, and yet numerous vessels, even at the present day, return +home with a portion of their crews suffering from that fearful scourge. +The masters must exert themselves, must take some trouble in the matter, +no doubt; but if they will not do so, if they will not take an interest +in the welfare of their men, they are unfit to command ships; they are a +disgrace to their honourable profession. + +Among those who reached England in the Adventure, with Captain Furneaux, +was Omai, the native of Ulietea. Captain Cook did not approve at the +time of the selection Captain Furneaux had made, as Omai did not belong +to the chiefs, nor to the priestly class, while in appearance and +intelligence he was inferior to many of his countrymen. Oedidee, who +had been received on board the Resolution, had, it will be remembered, +been left behind at Ulietea, Cook fearing that he might have no other +opportunity of restoring the youth to his native island. Both seem to +have been inferior to Tupia, who died at Batavia. However, Omai, as the +first native of the South Sea Islands who had been seen in England, was +made a great deal of by people of all ranks. He was introduced to +George the Third, who settled on him a pension while he remained in +England. He had his portrait painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Cowper +mentions him in one of his poems, while he was constantly in the society +of Dr Johnson, Madame d'Arblay, Sir Joseph Banks, Dr Burney, Lord +Sandwich, Lord Mulgrave, Granville Sharpe, and many other illustrious +persons. The power of imitation is strong among his people, and he, +therefore, very quickly copied the manners of the people with whom he +associated, and became, in appearance, a polished gentleman. + +He very slowly acquired a knowledge of English; indeed, he always +required the aid of signs and gestures to express himself. + +In vain was much trouble expended in trying to teach him to write, by +Mr Sharpe, who also endeavoured, with no better success, to instruct +him in the principles of Christianity. Such was Omai, a dark-minded +savage, amidst civilisation and enlightenment. His great desire seems +to have been to obtain the means of successfully waging war with the men +of Bolabola, of expelling them from Ulietea, and of regaining possession +of his hereditary property. It is with regret that we read this account +of the miserable Omai, when we reflect how eagerly and how thoroughly +many of his fellow-islanders in after years imbibed the principles of +the Christian faith, and how steadfastly they have held to them, in all +simplicity and purity. Had Omai--like the Ethiopian eunuch of other +days--but embraced with all his heart the truths of the Gospel, and +returned to his native land, carrying with him the glad tidings of +salvation to his benighted countrymen, the light of the knowledge of the +glory of God might have been spread throughout the islands of the +Pacific even then. + +For two centuries a strong desire had existed in England, among people +interested in navigation, to discover a passage by the north-west, round +the coast of North America into the Pacific, so that China and Japan and +the East Indies might be reached by a route shorter than that by the +Cape of Good Hope. All the early expeditions had been undertaken by +private enterprise, to encourage which, an Act of Parliament was passed +in 1745, securing a reward of 20,000 pounds to any ship belonging to any +of his Majesty's subjects, which should discover the passage. Often was +the attempt made by numerous bold adventurers, from Frobisher, in 1576, +onwards to the time of which we are writing. In the middle of the +century public interest was again awakened by the exertions of Mr +Dobbs, who was strongly impressed with the belief that a north-west +passage could be found. Captain Middleton was sent out by Government in +1741, and Captains Smith and Moore in 1746. In 1773, at the instigation +of the Hon. Daines Barrington, an influential member of the Royal +Society, Lord Sandwich sent out Captain Phipps (afterwards Lord +Mulgrave) with the Racehorse and Carcase. Captain Lutwidge commanded +the latter vessel, and had on board a young boy--Nelson, the future +naval hero. Captain Phipps returned, unable to penetrate the wall of +ice which barred his progress. + +Still, that a passage existed, and might be found, was the belief of +many enlightened men, and the Admiralty came to the resolution of +sending out another expedition, better prepared than former ones to +encounter the difficulties to be met with. Lord Sandwich very naturally +desired to have Captain Cook's opinion on the subject, and his lordship +accordingly invited him to meet Sir Hugh Palliser, Mr Stephens, and +others at dinner, where it might freely be discussed. + +The importance and grandeur of the undertaking, and, should it be +successful, the great advantage it would be to navigation and science, +thus completing the circuit of discoveries made by Cook, were +particularly dwelt on. When it came to the point of fixing on a fit +person to recommend to his Majesty to command the proposed expedition, +Captain Cook started to his feet, and declared that he himself was ready +to take the command. + +This was probably what Lord Sandwich desired. Cook's offer was eagerly +accepted, and he was appointed to the command of the expedition on +February 10, 1776. It was arranged that on his return to England he +should be restored to his post at Greenwich. An Act was also at once +passed, by which the officers and ship's company of any of his Majesty's +ships discovering the north-west passage would be able to claim the +reward of 20,000 pounds offered in 1745 only to persons not in the Royal +Navy. The usual plan of search was to be reversed, and instead of +commencing on the Atlantic side of America, and endeavouring to +penetrate into the Pacific, the expedition was to proceed round Cape +Horn, and then sailing north, attempt to work its way through Behring's +Straits eastward into the Atlantic. + +Two vessels were fixed on for the intended service, the Resolution and +the Discovery. The command of the former was given to Captain Cook, +with Mr Gore as his first lieutenant, and of the other to Captain +Clerke, while Lieutenant King went out again as second lieutenant of the +Resolution. He had undertaken to make the necessary astronomical and +nautical observations during the voyage, in conjunction with his +captain, and for this purpose various instruments were entrusted to him. + +Mr Bayley was again appointed as astronomer, to sail on board Captain +Clerke's ship, while Mr Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution, took +charge of the department of natural history. An artist, Mr Webber, was +selected to sail on board the Resolution, and to make sketches of any +scenes of interest which might be met with. + +Every care and attention was paid to the fitting-out of the ships, and +some months passed before they were ready for sea. The officers of the +Resolution were John Gore, James King, and John Williamson, lieutenants; +William Bligh, Master; William Anderson, surgeon; Molesworth Philips, +lieutenant Royal Marines: those of the Discovery were James Burney, John +Rickham, lieutenants; Thomas Edgar, master; John Law, surgeon. The +latter vessel, which had been purchased into the service, was of three +hundred tons burden. + +An ample supply of all the articles which past experience had shown were +likely to preserve the health of the crews was put on board these +vessels, as well as an abundance of warm clothing. By desire of the +King, several useful animals, which were to be left at the Society or +other islands, for the benefit of the natives, were embarked, with +fodder for their support. There were two cows and their calves, a bull, +and several sheep. Others were to be purchased at the Cape. The +captain was also furnished with a large variety of European garden +seeds, for distribution among the inhabitants of newly-discovered +islands. He received, besides, by order of the Board of Admiralty, many +articles calculated to improve the condition of the natives of the +islands of the Pacific, while, for the purposes of traffic, a large +assortment of iron tools, trinkets, and other articles were sent on +board. Nothing, indeed, was omitted which it was thought likely would +benefit the people to be visited, or would promote the success of the +voyage. As it was not probable that another opportunity would occur of +restoring Omai to his native island, it was settled that he should +return in the Resolution. It was supposed that this semi-civilised, and +still heathen, savage had become so impressed with the grandeur and +power of England, and so grateful for the patronage he had enjoyed and +the presents he had received, that he would (as a writer of the day +expresses it) "be rendered an instrument of conveying to the inhabitants +of the Pacific Ocean the most exalted ideas of the greatness and +generosity of the British nation." How completely these hopes were +disappointed the following narrative will show; nor should we be +surprised at this, when we recollect how entirely superficial were all +poor Omai's accomplishments. He appears to have learned to play very +well at chess; but that seems to have been the only science in which he +attained anything like proficiency. The truth is, he had been made a +lion of, and had been courted and petted by the rank and fashion of the +day. It would not have been surprising if his head had been turned. +Possibly, a man of superior mind or quicker sensibilities might have +been powerfully affected by the same amount of flattery. On being told +that he was to go, he could scarcely refrain from tears when he spoke of +parting from his English friends, but his eyes immediately sparkled with +pleasure when his native islands were mentioned. + +Captain Cook received the secret instructions for his guidance on July +6, 1776. His chief object was to find a passage from the Pacific into +the Atlantic. He was to leave the Cape of Good Hope early in November, +and first to search for certain islands said to have been seen by the +French, south of the Mauritius. He was not to spend much time in +looking for them, nor in examining them if found, but to proceed to +Otaheite, touching at New Zealand, should he consider it necessary to +refresh his crews. Thence he was to proceed direct to the coast of New +Albion, avoiding, if possible, any Spanish settlements; or should it be +necessary to touch at any, to take great care not to excite the jealousy +or ill-will of the Spaniards. Arrived in the Frozen Ocean, he was to +examine all channels and inlets likely to lead eastward, and to take +possession of any territory on which he might land, not before +discovered, with the consent of the natives, in the name of the King of +Great Britain. He was to winter at the Russian settlement of Saint +Peter and Saint Paul in Kamtschatka, and to return in the spring to the +north. Each ship was supplied with a small vessel in frame, which was +to be set up, if necessary, to prosecute the search for a passage along +the northern coast of America. + +Although numerous expeditions have since been sent out, they have mostly +commenced their operations on the Atlantic side of America; and it is +remarkable that the only successful one, that of Captain McClure, in the +Investigator, and Captain Collinson, in the Enterprise, in the years +1850-53, entered the Frozen Sea on the Pacific side. [Note 1.] Captain +McClure had, however, to abandon his ship, and to make the voyage over +the ice, till he could join one of the ships sent up Baffin's Bay to his +relief; while Captain Collinson, getting his ship free from the ice, +returned westward by the way he had come. The question of a north-west +passage was thus solved in the affirmative; but, unless in some very +exceptional case, it is shown to be impracticable and useless for all +commercial purposes. It is easy to conceive what would have been the +fate of Cook's ships had they proceeded eastward, and there become beset +by the ice. + +Captain Cook, with Omai in his company, joined his ship on June 24, +1776, at Sheerness, and immediately sailed for Plymouth. He did not +leave that port till July 11, and, owing to contrary winds, did not take +his departure from the Scilly Isles till the 16th. + +The Discovery remained at Plymouth, Captain Clerke not having yet +arrived on board. He was directed to proceed, as soon as he was ready +for sea, to the Cape of Good Hope, there to join the Resolution. +Captain Cook touched at Teneriffe, where he found an abundance of +supplies, and sailed again on August 4. On the evening of the 10th, +Bonavista, one of the Cape de Verde Islands, was seen bearing south, +little more than a league off, though at the time it was supposed that +the ship was at a much greater distance from the land. Just then +breakers were discovered directly under her lee, and for a few minutes +she was in great danger. She happily just weathered them, and stood for +Porto Praya, where it was expected the Discovery might be. As she was +not there, the Resolution did not go in, but continued her course to the +Cape. On September 1 the line was crossed, and the usual ceremonies +were observed; on October 18 the ship anchored in Table Bay. Here +arrangements were at once made to obtain a supply of fresh bread and +other provisions, which, as soon as ready, were conveyed on board, while +the tents were set up on shore, and astronomical observations diligently +carried on. Meantime, the ship was caulked, which she much required. +On the evening of the 31st a fearful gale tore the tents to pieces, and +some of the instruments narrowly escaped serious injury. No +communication with the Resolution was possible for those on shore. + +She was the only ship in the harbour which rode out the gale without +dragging her anchors. + +On November 10 the Discovery entered the bay. She had sailed on August +1, and would have come in a week sooner but had been blown off the coast +by the late gale. She also required caulking, which detained the +expedition some time. + +On November 30 the two ships sailed together. The Resolution had now on +board, in addition to her former stock of animals, two bulls and two +heifers, two horses and two mares, two rams, several ewes and goats, and +some rabbits and poultry--all of them intended for New Zealand, +Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands, or other places where there +might be a prospect of their proving useful. The course steered was +about south-east. Before long a heavy squall carried away the +Resolution's mizzen-topmast; and a mountainous sea made the ship roll so +much that it was with difficulty the animals on board could be +preserved. Owing to this, and to the cold, several goats and sheep +died. + +On December 12 two islands were seen about five leagues apart. These, +with four others which lie in the same latitude, about nine degrees of +longitude more to the east, were discovered by two French navigators in +1772. Cook now bestowed the name of Prince Edward's Island on the two +he had just discovered, and those of the French officers on the four +others. They were mostly covered with snow, and where the ground seemed +free from it lichen or a coarse grass was the only herbage. + +On leaving Prince Edward's Island a course was shaped to fall in with +Kerguelen's Land. On the evening of the 24th an island of considerable +height and the next day other islands were seen. As the ships ranged +along the coast a terrific sea rolled in on the shore, placing them in +great danger, and both had considerable difficulty in weathering the +points and reefs they met with. Though it was midsummer the weather was +as cold as it is generally during the winter in the British Channel. At +last a harbour was discovered, into which the ships beat and found good +anchorage, an abundance of water, innumerable penguins and other birds, +as also seals, which were so unacquainted with human beings that they +allowed themselves to be knocked on the head without attempting to +escape. The casks were immediately landed to be filled up with water, +while a supply of seals was secured for the sake of their oil. Not a +tree nor shrub was to be found in this inhospitable region. A bottle +was brought to Captain Cook, containing a document left by Kerguelen, +who had discovered this land at the end of 1773, and had taken +possession of it in the name of the King of France. The harbour in +which the ships lay was called Christmas Harbour, in commemoration of +the day on which they entered it. The ships left this harbour on the +morning of the 28th, and continued to range along the coast, in order to +discover its position and extent. They brought up in another harbour +just in time to escape a heavy gale, and then proceeded to the south, +towards Cape George, to determine the shape of the land. On finally +leaving it, on December 30, the ships steered east-by-north for New +Zealand. Captain Cook came to the conclusion that the land he had just +left was a large island, seventy or eighty miles from north to south, +and a much greater distance from east to west. Captain Furneaux had, in +1773, passed across the meridian of this land, only seventeen leagues to +the south of Cape George, thus settling the point of its being an +island. + +It seems to have been a mistake to send the ships into these inclement +regions with cattle on board, as many died, among them two young bulls +and a heifer, two rams, and several more of the goats. + +The weather continued so thick that for many days together the ships did +not see each other, though by constantly firing guns they managed to +keep in company. At length Captain Cook determined to put into +Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's Land, where Captain Furneaux had touched +on the former voyage. The land was made on January 24, and on the 26th +the ships brought up in the bay. They expected to obtain a supply of +wood for fuel, and of grass for the cattle, of which they stood greatly +in need. A supply of fish was caught, and plenty of grass brought on +board. While the party on shore were cutting wood some natives +appeared. They came forward with perfect confidence, only one having a +lance in his hand. They were entirely without clothes, their skin and +hair black, their stature about the ordinary height, their figures +rather slender. Their features were not disagreeable, as they had +neither very thick lips nor flat noses, while their eyes and teeth were +good. Most of them had their heads and beards smeared with a red +ointment, while some had their faces painted with the same composition. +They seemed indifferent to all the presents offered them; even bread and +fish they threw away, till some birds were given them, at which they +expressed their satisfaction. + +A boar and sow had been landed for the purpose of being left in the +woods, but no sooner did the natives see them than they seized them by +the ears, evidently with the intention of carrying them off and killing +them. Captain Cook, wishing to know the use of the stick one of them +carried, the native set up a mark and threw his stick at it. He missed +it, however, so often, that Omai, to show the superiority of the white +men's arms, fired his musket. This very naturally made the whole party +ran off, and drop some axes and other things which had been given to +them. They ran towards where the Adventure's people were cutting wood, +when the officer, not knowing their intention, fired a musket over their +heads, which sent them off altogether. The boar and sow were carried to +a thick wood at the head of the bay, where it was hoped that they would +conceal themselves and escape the natives; but some cattle which it had +been intended to leave there were returned on board, as it was clear +that the natives would immediately kill them. + +A calm kept the ships in harbour, and the next day, notwithstanding the +fright which the natives had received, a party of twenty or more, men +and boys, made their appearance. Among them was one terribly deformed, +who seemed to be the acknowledged wit of the party, as he and his +friends laughed heartily at the remarks he made, and seemed surprised +that the English did not do the same. Their language was different from +that of the tribes met with in the north. Some of these people had +bands of fur passed several times round their necks, and others of +kangaroo-skin round their ankles. They seemed to be unacquainted with +fishing, by the way they looked at the English fish-hooks, and their +rejection of the fish offered them; though near their fires quantities +of mussel shells were found, showing that they lived partly on +shell-fish. Their habitations were mere sheds of sticks covered with +bark, and there were indications of their taking up their abodes in +trees hollowed out by fire or decay. From the marks of fires it was +evident that they cooked their food, but they did not appear to have the +slightest notion of cultivating the land. The people here described +have disappeared from the face of the earth. The last remnant, who had +become exceedingly ferocious and mischievous, were collected and carried +to an island in Bass's Straits, where they were allowed to roam at +large, it having been found impossible to tame them. It is believed +that they finally died out. Mr Anderson records the beauty of the +scenery and of the climate, though he remarks that not one single +natural production could be found fit for the food of man. + +The ships left Adventure Bay on January 30, when soon afterwards the +mercury in the barometer fell, and a furious gale began to blow from the +south. At the same time the heat became almost insupportable, the +mercury in the thermometer rising from 70 degrees to near 90 degrees. +This high temperature, however, did not last long. + +On February 12 the ships anchored in Queen Charlotte's Sound. That no +time might be lost, the tents for the observatory, with the usual guard +and the water-casks, were landed, and operations were immediately +commenced. Before long several canoes came alongside, but few of the +people in them would venture on board, the greater part being evidently +afraid that the English would punish them for their murder of the +Adventure's people. Captain Cook recognised several of those with whom +he was well acquainted during his former visits. They must also have +seen Omai, and remembered that he was on board the Adventure at the +time, and thus known that Captain Cook could no longer have been +ignorant of what had occurred. He, however, did his best to make them +understand that he was not come to punish them for that act, and that he +wished to be friends with them as before. In consequence of this the +natives very soon laid aside restraint and distrust. After the fearful +experience he had had of their treachery, however, the captain took +extra precautions to prevent a surprise. While the people were engaged +in their various occupations on shore, a guard was posted for their +protection, while all the men worked with their arms by their sides, Mr +King and two or three petty officers being constantly with them. No +boat was sent to a distance unless well armed, and under charge of an +officer who could be depended on. Captain Cook thinks that the +precautions were probably unnecessary though he felt it his duty to take +them. The natives showed no fear, and came and built their huts close +to the ship, and many employed themselves in fishing, exchanging the +fish they caught for the usual articles of barter. + +Besides the natives who settled near them, chiefs from other parts +frequently visited the ship. Among them came a chief called Kahoora, +who was pointed out as the leader of those who attacked the crew of the +Adventure's boat, and was said actually to have killed Mr Rowe, the +officer in command. Greatly to the surprise of the natives, as also to +that of Omai, who entreated that he might at once be killed, Captain +Cook declined seizing him, saying that he had granted an amnesty, and +that no one should be punished. Kahoora, trusting to the captain's +promise, came frequently on board, though by thus doing he placed +himself entirely in the hands of the English. Once only, when Omai +accused him in the cabin of having killed Mr Rowe, he hung down his +head and folded his arms, expecting instant death, but was soon +reassured by the captain, who told him that he wished to forget the +circumstance, though should a similar one occur the natives must expect +the fearful vengeance of the English. He says that had he listened to +the suggestions and requests of the chiefs and others to kill their +enemies, he should soon have extirpated the whole race. In no country +could life be much more insecure. Tribes, and even families living in +the same neighbourhood, were constantly fighting with each other, and +war was carried on with the utmost cruelty and ferocity. If a man was +unable to revenge an injury inflicted on himself or any member of his +family, it was the duty of his son to take up the quarrel, and often +many years elapsed before an opportunity occurred of wreaking his +long-delayed vengeance. When such an opportunity arrived he and his +companions stole on their unsuspecting enemies in the night, and if they +found them unguarded they killed every one indiscriminately, not even +sparing women or children. When the massacre was completed they either +made a horrid banquet of the slain on the spot, or carried off as many +dead bodies as they could, and devoured them at home, with acts of +brutality too shocking to be described. As they never gave quarter nor +took prisoners the defeated party could only save their lives by flight. +More powerful chiefs made war in the same barbarous way, on a larger +scale, and depopulated whole districts if the people offended them. On +the introduction of firearms the bloody work went on with still greater +rapidity. In the time of George the Fourth a chief who was taken to +England and received at Buckingham Palace, and was looked upon as a +highly civilised person, on his return exchanged at Sydney all the +articles which had been given him for firearms and ammunition, and +immediately commenced a war of extermination against all the surrounding +tribes, and feasted without scruple on the bodies of his foes. It is +not surprising that, under such circumstances, two-thirds of the +inhabitants of New Zealand have been, within the last century, swept +away by warfare. The process of extermination had, indeed, commenced +long before Cook visited those shores, and it would probably ere now +have completed its ravages had not the Christian Church been roused to a +sense of its responsibilities, and conveyed to New Zealand, as to other +lands, the knowledge of Him who teaches us by His Word and Spirit to +love our enemies, to bless those who curse us, and to do good to those +who despitefully use us and persecute us. + +The wandering propensities of the New Zealanders were shown by the +desire expressed by several youths of embarking on board the ships. +One, named Taweiharooa, eighteen years of age, the son of a dead chief, +was selected to accompany Omai, who had been desirous of having a +companion. That Taweiharooa might be sent off in a way becoming his +rank, a boy, Kokoa, of about ten years of age, to act as his servant, +was presented by his own father with as much indifference as he would +have parted with a dog. It was clearly explained to the youths that +they would probably never return to their native country, but, as Cook +observes, so great was the insecurity of life in New Zealand at that +time, that he felt no compunction in the matter, as the lads could +scarcely fail to improve their lot by the change. + +The ships left Queen Charlotte's Sound on February 25. No sooner had +they lost sight of land than the New Zealand adventurers were seized +with sea-sickness, which, giving a turn to their thoughts, made them +bitterly lament what they had done, while they expressed their feelings +in a sort of song which they continued to sing till they got better. By +degrees their lamentations ceased, and in a short time their native +country and friends seemed to be forgotten, and they appeared as firmly +attached to their new friends as if they had been born among them. + +On March 29, 1777, the Discovery made the signal of land in the +north-east. It was soon found to be an island of no great extent, and +the night was spent standing off and on, in the hope that the next day a +landing-place might be found. No landing nor anchorage, however, +appeared practicable, on account of the heavy surf which broke +everywhere, either against the island or the reef which surrounded it. +Before long a number of people appeared on the shore or wading to the +reef, most of them nearly naked, except the usual girdle, brandishing +spears and clubs. Some of them had mantles of native cloth over their +shoulders, and turbans or wrappers round their heads. After a time a +canoe was launched, and came off with two natives to the ship. When +presents were offered, they asked for some for their Eatooa before they +would accept any for themselves. Omai spoke to them in the tongue of +Otaheite, which they perfectly understood. The principal man said that +his name was Monrooa, and that the island was called Mangaia. His +colour was that of most southern Europeans; he was stout and well made, +and his features were agreeable. The other man was not so good-looking. +Both of them had strong, straight black hair, tied at the crown of the +head. They wore sandals, to protect their feet from the coral rocks. + +The men would not venture on board, but when the boats were lowered and +stood towards the shore to find a landing-place, Monrooa stepped into +Captain Cook's of his own accord, and took his seat by his side. No +landing could be found without the risk of swamping the boats; they +therefore returned, and Monrooa came on board. He was, evidently, too +anxious about his safety to ask questions. At last he stumbled over one +of the goats, when he inquired eagerly of Omai what strange bird that +was! The boat conveyed him just outside the surf, when he leaped +overboard and swam through it, his countrymen being seen eagerly +gathering round him to receive accounts of what he had seen. Cook says +he left that fine island with regret, as it seemed capable of supplying +all their wants. [Note 2.] + +Mangaia was left on March 30, and the next day, at noon, two islands +were seen--a large and a small one. The following day the shore of the +larger island was reached, and boats at once put off to try and find a +landing-place. At the same time several canoes came from the shore, +with one man in each. The natives stepped on board without showing +fear, but seemed to value very little any of the gifts bestowed on them. +After the first party had gone, a man arrived in a canoe, bringing a +bunch of plantains as a present to Captain Cook, whose name he had +learned from Omai. This present had been sent by the principal chief. +The bearer went away, well contented, with an axe and a piece of red +cloth. Not long after a double canoe approached the Resolution, with +twelve men in her, who chanted in chorus, and when their song was +finished they came alongside and asked for the chief. On the captain's +showing himself a pig and some cocoanuts were handed up the side, and +the natives coming on board presented some pieces of matting in +addition. Though the natives expressed surprise at some of the things +they saw, nothing seemed to fix their attention. They were afraid of +the horses and cows, and inquired, when they saw the goats, as the +native of Mangaia had done, what sort of birds they were. + +The following day Mr Gore and Mr Barney, with Mr Anderson and Omai, +went on shore in hope of obtaining food for the cattle. The boats +approached the surf, when some canoes came off and took the party +through it. The day passed on, and as they did not return Captain Cook +became somewhat uneasy; his only comfort being that the natives +continued to come off to the ship as before, bringing cocoanuts, and +taking anything given them in return. Late in the day the boats +returned; it then appeared that the party had been conducted, amid a +vast crowd, up an avenue of cocoa palms, till they reached a body of men +drawn up in two rows, armed with clubs resting on their shoulders. In +the middle row was a chief, sitting cross-legged on the ground, and +having bunches of red feathers in his ears. They were then introduced +to two other chiefs, one, though a young man, excessively corpulent, +also distinguished by the red feathers, and they were then entertained +by a dance, performed by twenty girls, all of whom wore red feathers. +The dancers did not leave the spot where they stood, for though their +feet moved up and down the dance consisted of various motions of the +body and hands. The visitors were next entertained by a sham fight +between the men armed with clubs. They now found themselves separated +from each other, and pressed on by the crowd, while they had their +pockets picked of every article they possessed, the chiefs not +interfering. Their position was sufficiently embarrassing, for whenever +they tried to get back to the boats they were stopped. Omai, meantime, +who was by himself, surrounded by a crowd of natives, and equally +anxious with the rest, described, in exaggerated terms, the power of the +English guns, which, he affirmed, could blow the whole island to pieces. +He had some cartridges in his pocket, and to prove his assertion he let +several of them off together. The sudden flash and report seem to have +produced a great effect on the minds of the natives, as the party were +sent off with a large supply of cooked plantains as a gift; and a bag +containing a pistol, which Mr Anderson particularly required, was +restored. + +Omai found on this island three of his own countrymen who had arrived +there, eleven years before, in a canoe. They were the survivors of a +party of twenty persons who had been driven before the wind from +Otaheite, distant at least two hundred leagues. They declined a passage +offered to them to return to their native island. The circumstance was +interesting as giving an example of the way the islands of the Pacific +have been peopled. The name of this island was Wateeoo. The language +was equally well understood by Omai and the two New Zealanders. + +Though the visit was an interesting one, the chief object in calling off +the island (that of procuring provender for the cattle) was not +attained, as nothing was sent off. From the small island which had been +seen three days before, and to which the ships now steered, all that was +required was obtained, consisting of grass and leaves of young cocoanut +trees and of the pandanus. Though the island, called Ota Kootaia, was +uninhabited, still, as it was occasionally visited by the natives of the +neighbouring island, Mr King left an axe and some nails in payment for +what he took away. + +Captain Cook next sailed for Hervey Island, which he had supposed, when +he discovered it in 1773, to be uninhabited. As he now approached, +however, a number of canoes came off, but the people on board behaved in +a very wild and disorderly manner. They were of a darker colour than +the neighbouring islanders, and of a fiercer expression of countenance. +As no anchorage was found for the ships they stood away for Palmerston's +Island, which was found to be thickly covered with cocoanut trees, +pandanus, cabbage palm, and grass. The ships stood off and on for three +days, while four or five boats' crews were busily employed in cutting +food for the cattle, and in collecting two thousand cocoanuts for the +crews of the two ships. On leaving Palmerston's Island a course was +steered for Annamook, and on the night between April 24 and 25, Savage +Island was passed. + +On the evening of the 28th the ships anchored off Komango, and the next +morning canoes came off with all sorts of provisions. Mr King, who +went on shore, was treated very civilly by the inhabitants, and by two +chiefs, Taipa and Toobou. As it was important to find a good harbour, +and no other, after two days' search, having been discovered, Captain +Cook came to anchor in the spot where he had been three years before. +Here the chief Toobou received him, and offered a boat, and also a house +to serve as a tent; at the same time he promptly selected a spot where +the observatories might be set up and other arrangements made. He +conducted the captain and Omai to his house. Round it was a fine +grass-plot, which he explained was for the purpose of enabling people to +clean their feet before entering the house. The floor was covered with +mats, and no carpet in an English drawing-room could be kept cleaner. +Taipa, the chief, who had been among the first to introduce himself, +that he might be close to his new friends, had a house brought on men's +shoulders, full a quarter of a mile, and placed near the shed they +occupied. The greatest man, however, had not as yet appeared, and on +May 6 a chief arrived, it was understood, from Tongataboo, who was +introduced by Taipa as Feenou, King of all the Friendly Islands. That +he was of great power there could be no doubt, as the natives ordered +out to meet him bowed their heads as low as his feet, the soles of which +they touched, first with the palm, and then with the back of each hand. +He appeared to be about thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and had +more of the European features than any native of the South Seas yet met +with. He showed his power by recovering a large axe which had been +stolen out of the ship. The people of these islands were great thieves; +even the chiefs stole. One was caught, when he was sentenced to receive +a dozen lashes, and was not set free till he had paid a hog for his +liberty. This put a stop to the practice among the chiefs. + +At Feenou's invitation Captain Cook agreed to go to Hapaee. During the +passage the great chief came on board and remained all day, but in the +evening took his departure with Omai, while the ship remained under sail +in a somewhat perilous position, no anchorage having been found. +Several times during the day the smoke from the burning mountain of +Toofoa was seen; at night the flames were observed bursting forth, but +to no great height. + +Hapaee consists of four islands, of inconsiderable elevation. +Immediately the ships came to an anchor, on the 17th, they were crowded +with natives, who brought off all sorts of provisions. A house had been +brought down to the beach, and on Captain Cook's going on shore, he and +Omai, with Feenou, took their seats within it, the other chiefs and +people forming a circle outside. Feenou then directed Taipa to proclaim +to the people that the strangers were going to remain five days, and +that they were to bring hogs, fowls, and fruit to the ships; that they +were not to steal, but to behave in every way politely and courteously. +After this, it was suggested by Taipa that a present should be made to +Earoupa, the chief of the island. + +Omai seems to have been greatly taken with Feenou, and scarcely ever +quitted him. The next day this chief came off, requesting the captain's +presence on shore, when a hundred men appeared, laden with bread-fruit, +plantains, yams, cocoanuts, and sugar-canes, with several pigs and +fowls, and two turtles, which were deposited in two heaps, Earoupa +seating himself near one heap, and another chief near the other. A +number of men then appeared, armed with clubs made out of the green +branches of the cocoanut tree. They formed two parties, and numerous +single combats took place, the victors being highly applauded by the +spectators. These were succeeded by wrestling and boxing matches, much +in the English fashion. In the latter several young women took part. +One of the first pair gave in within a minute, but the second fought on +till separated by two old women. The greatest good humour prevailed, +however, though many severe blows were received. Feenou now explained +that one-third of the presents were for Omai, and the others for Captain +Cook, who made the handsomest returns he could. There was enough to +fill four boats; indeed, no chief in any part had ever made a present at +all equal to it. + +At the desire of the chief the marines were exercised on shore, and in +return a sort of dance was performed by a hundred and five men, who had +each a paddle in his hand. Nothing could exceed the beautiful precision +and the variety of graceful movements of the performers. When it grew +dark their visitors greatly pleased the natives by a display of +fireworks. After this the people collected in an open space among the +trees, where a circle was formed by lights, and just outside the circle +a number of dances were performed, some by men, and others by women, +many of the principal people taking a part. The performances appear to +have been very graceful and perfect in every way, the natives evidently +priding themselves on them. + +Making an excursion on shore, Captain Cook formed a high opinion of the +state of cultivation of Lifooga. On his return on board he found a +large double canoe, with the silent chief who had been met with at +Tongataboo, and was supposed to be the king of the island. Feenou was +on board, but neither great man took the slightest notice of the other. +Feenou now announced that business required his absence, and begged +Captain Cook to await his return. He had not been gone long when a +large sailing-canoe arrived, in which was a person named Poulaho, and +whom the natives on board affirmed to be the real King of Tongataboo and +of all the neighbouring islands. He was a sensible, sedate man, +enormously fat, and about forty years of age. He was, of course, +invited into the cabin, but his attendants observed that that could not +be. On this the captain sent Omai to say that he would give directions +that no one should approach the part of the deck above the cabin. The +king, however, settled the question by going below without making any +stipulation. Omai seemed much disappointed at discovering that the +chief he had taken to be king was no king after all. Feenou was, +however, a very powerful chief, generalissimo of the army, and head of +the police of all the islands, so that he was held in general awe. + +The king was much pleased with the presents he received, and when he +went on shore ordered two more hogs to be sent off, in addition to two +he had brought with him. On landing he was taken up to the house +erected for his accommodation, on a board resembling a hand-barrow. On +Feenou's return he looked rather confused on finding that the king had +paid the voyagers a visit; and he then acknowledged who and what he +really was. After this, on one occasion, Poulaho and Feenou accompanied +the captain on board. Feenou, however, did not presume to sit with the +king, but, saluting his foot with head and hands, retired out of the +cabin. It appeared, indeed, that he declined to eat and drink in the +royal presence, though there were persons of much inferior rank who did +so. + +At the request of Poulaho the captain paid a visit to Tongataboo, where +the ships were in considerable danger of driving on a low, sandy island, +but escaped. At Tongataboo the English were entertained much in the +same way that they had been at Hapaee. + +The king had a son, Fattafaihe, to whom great respect was paid. His +mother was the daughter of an old chief, of large possessions and great +influence, called Mareewagee, and Feenou was his son. That chief was, +therefore, brother-in-law to the king, and uncle to the heir-apparent. + +On June 19 Captain Cook invited the chiefs and others to a meeting, that +he might present them with the animals he proposed to leave on the +island. To the king, Poulaho, he gave a young English bull and cow; to +Mareewagee, a Cape ram and two ewes; and to Feenou, a horse and mare; +and he instructed Omai to explain their use, and that they must be +careful not to injure them, but to let them increase till they had +stocked the island. Some goats and rabbits were also added. It soon +appeared, however, that the chiefs were dissatisfied with this +allotment, and early next morning it was found that a kid and two +turkey-cocks were missing. On this the captain put a guard over the +king, Feenou, and some other chiefs, whom he found in the house which +the English occupied on shore, and told them that they should not be +liberated till the animals and other articles lately stolen had been +restored. On the captain inviting them to go on board to dinner they +readily consented. Some objected to the king's going, but he jumped up +and said that he would be the first to go. They were kept on board till +four, and on their return on shore the kid and one of the turkey-cocks +were brought back, and the other was promised the next day. After this +a party of officers from both ships made an excursion into the interior, +with muskets and ammunition, and a number of articles for barter, but +the natives stripped them of everything. The officers made application, +through Omai, for restitution, and this caused the king, Feenou, and +other chiefs hastily to go off. Omai, however, persuaded Feenou that +nothing would be done to them, when he, and afterwards the king, +returned, and were apparently on as good terms as ever. + +Captain Cook even ventured to attend a grand ceremony, held for the +purpose of introducing the young prince to certain royal privileges, the +principal of which was to be that of eating in the society of his +father. There seemed to be great distinctions of rank among the people. +There were some who had greater honour shown to them than even to the +king himself. His father had an elder sister, of equal rank to himself, +and she married a chief who came from Fejee. By him she had a son, the +silent chief Latoolibooloo, who was looked upon as a madman, and two +daughters. The king met one of these women on board the Resolution, and +would not venture to eat in her presence. On afterwards encountering +Latoolibooloo, the king bent down and touched the silent prince's feet +with the back and palms of his hand, as he was accustomed to be treated +by his subjects. + +Captain Cook here observed the taboo system. If applied to places, they +may not be entered or approached; if to persons, they may not be +touched, or may not feed themselves; if to things, they may not be +touched. The system, however, did not appear to be so rigidly observed +in Tonga as in some other groups of the Pacific. + +With regard to the religion of the people, Captain Cook gained very +little information, and Omai, who seems to have been especially dull of +apprehension, and never to have made inquiries of his own accord, was +very little able to help him. That great cruelty was exercised by those +in authority was evident by two or three occurrences witnessed by the +English. On one occasion, when Feenou was on board the Resolution, an +inferior chief ordered all the people to retire from the post occupied +on shore by the English. Some ventured to return, when the chief took +up a stick and beat them most unmercifully. He struck one man with so +much violence on the side of the face that the blood gushed out of his +month and nostrils, and after lying for some time motionless he was +removed in convulsions. The chief laughed when told that he had killed +the man, and seemed perfectly indifferent to the matter. + +All classes, from the highest to the lowest, were found to be thieves; +and when the chiefs themselves did not steal they employed their +servants to pilfer for them. To check this propensity Captain Clerke +suggested a plan, which was adopted with good effect. Whenever any of +the lower orders were caught stealing he had their heads completely +shaved, so that they became objects of ridicule to their countrymen, and +did not again venture on board the ships. + +It appeared that the larger portion of the land belonged to certain +great chiefs, and that the inferior chiefs held their estates under +them, while the mass of the population were mere serfs, who tilled the +soil for their masters, and received but a scanty remuneration for their +labour. + +Captain Cook heard of the Fejee Islands, distant about three days' sail, +and of the savage and cannibal propensities of the inhabitants, some of +whom he saw at Tonga. The inhabitants of Tonga held them in great +dread, on account of their prowess in war, and always endeavoured to +keep on friendly terms with them. He concluded that the Friendly +Islanders had not, till lately, kept up any intercourse with those of +Fejee, because dogs, which are very common in the latter group, had only +been introduced into Tonga since his last visit, and to none of the +other islands. + +All was ready for sailing, when the king invited Captain Cook and his +officers to the ceremony which has already been mentioned, and which +took place at Mooa, where the king resided. During its performance they +had to sit, as did the natives, with their shoulders bare, their hair +hanging down loose, their eyes cast down, and their hands locked +together. None but the principal people, and those who assisted at the +celebration, were allowed to be present. These circumstances, Captain +Cook says, were sufficient evidence to him that the people considered +themselves as acting under the immediate inspection of a Supreme Being. +He was told that in about three months there would be performed, on the +same account, a far grander solemnity, on which occasion not only the +tribute of Tongataboo, but that of Hapaee, Vavaoo, and of all the other +islands, would be brought to the chief, and ten human beings from among +the inferior sort of people would be sacrificed to add to its dignity: +"a significant instance," Captain Cook remarks, "of the influence of +gloomy and ignorant superstition over the minds of one of the most +benevolent and humane nations upon earth." King Poulaho warmly pressed +his guests to remain, that they might witness a funeral ceremony, which +was to take place the next day. + +During their stay in the island they had suffered from a succession of +violent storms. The wind raged fearfully amongst the forest trees, the +rain fell in torrents, the lightning flashed, and the thunder pealed +with an awful fury of which we, in these more temperate regions, have +little idea. Now, however, the wind had become fair and moderate; +Captain Cook and his officers, therefore, hurried on board, and as soon +as possible the ships got under way. As, however, they could not get to +sea before it was dark, they had to bring up for the night under +Tongataboo. The next day they reached Eooa, where the English were well +received by Captain Cook's former acquaintance, the chief of the island, +Taoofa, or, as he then called him, Tioony. An abundant supply of yams +and a few hogs were obtained, and the ram and two ewes of the Cape of +Good Hope breed of sheep were entrusted to the chief, who seemed proud +of his charge. + +Captain Cook made an excursion into the interior, and as he surveyed, +from an elevation to which he had ascended, the delightful prospect +before him, "I could not," he says, "help flattering myself with the +pleasing idea that some future navigator may, from the same station, +behold these meadows stocked with cattle, brought to these islands by +the ships of England; and that the completion of this high benevolent +purpose, independently of all other considerations, would sufficiently +mark to posterity that our voyages had not been useless to the general +interests of humanity." The great navigator here gives utterance to the +genuine feelings of his heart, for such were undoubtedly the principles +which animated him. He little dreamed that those friendly natives, of +whom he had thought so highly, and whom he had praised as among the most +humane people on earth, had, headed by Feenou, laid a plot for his +destruction, and that of all his followers. Providentially, the +conspirators could not agree as to the mode of proceeding; but all were +equally eager to possess themselves of the stores of wealth the ships +were supposed to contain. Probably Feenou's pretended friendship for +the foolish Omai was in the hope that he would thus have a ready tool in +his hands. He had offered to make Omai a great chief if he would remain +in Tonga, but Cook advised him not to accept the offer. + +Captain Cook had settled to sail on July 15, but, pressed by Taoofa, who +promised more presents, he consented to remain a couple of days. During +this period a seaman was surrounded by a number of people, and, being +knocked down, had every particle of clothing torn from his back; but, by +seizing on a couple of canoes and a fat hog, the English obtained the +restoration of some of the articles. + +The captain kept to his purpose of sailing, but when still not far from +the land a canoe with four men came off, saying that orders had been +sent to the people of Eooa to supply the ships with fat hogs, and that +if they would return to their former station the king and a number of +chiefs would, in a couple of days, be with them. As, however, there was +an abundant supply of provisions on board, Captain Cook declined the +offer, and continued his coarse. + +It is scarcely necessary to remind the reader that more fearful +massacres of the crews of various ships were perpetrated by the +inhabitants of these islands than by any other natives of the Pacific, +from the time of the visit just recorded till they were formed into a +civilised community under their present government. + +After the ships had left the Tonga group they did not see land till +August 8, when they fell in with a small island, having on it hills of +considerable elevation, covered with grass; tall trees, and numerous +plantations on a border of flat land, ran quite round it, edged with a +white sandy beach. A number of people were on the shore, and two canoes +came off with a dozen men in them, but could not be persuaded, by all +Omai's eloquence, to venture alongside. They spoke the language of +Otaheite, and called their island Toobouai. It was at this island that +Christian and the mutineers of the Bounty tried to form a settlement, in +1789. It is the scene, also, of Lord Byron's poem of "The Island," +though he altered the name to Toobouia. Some of the people were dressed +in native cloth, but the great mass had only girdles. One continued to +blow a conch-shell most of the time the ships lay off their island, +while his companions made signs, inviting the strangers to land. It is +worthy of remark that no weapons were seen among them. + +On the 12th Maitea was seen, and soon after Otaheite hove in sight, and +the next day the ships anchored in the Bay of Oheitepeha. Some common +people came off in canoes, but Omai took no notice of them, and they did +not seem to recognise him as a countryman. At length his +brother-in-law, Ootee, appeared, but there was no exhibition of regard +or affection till Omai took the other into the cabin and showed him the +drawers in which he kept his red feathers. This instantly changed the +face of affairs, and Ootee begged that they might be _tayos_, and change +names. + +Soon after the ships anchored Omai's sister came on board, and the +meeting was marked with expressions of the most tender affection, +evidently not feigned. Afterwards, on going ashore with Captain Cook, +Omai met a sister of his mother. "She threw herself at his feet, and +bedewed them plentifully with tears of joy," says the captain, adding, +"I left him with the old lady, in the midst of a number of people who +had gathered round him." + +Cook found that since his last visit two Spanish ships had twice visited +the bay; that a house had been built, and that several persons had been +left in the interval, of whom some had died, and the rest went away when +the ships came back. They had presented the islanders with a bull, some +hogs, goats, and dogs, and had taken away four people, two of whom died, +and two came back from a place which Cook conjectured to be Lima. The +house, which stood close to the beach, was made of planks, and as these +were all numbered they had evidently been brought ready to be set up. +It was divided into two small rooms, and in the inner one were a +bedstead, a table, a bench, some old hats, and other trifles, of which +the natives seemed to be very careful, as also of the house itself, +which had suffered no hurt from the weather, a shed having been built +over it. There were scuttles all round which served as air-holes, and +perhaps they were intended to fire from with musketry, should it have +become necessary. At a little distance from the front stood a wooden +cross, on the transverse part of which was only the inscription +_Christus vincit_, and on the perpendicular part _Carolus Tertius, +imperat_ 1774. On the other side of the post Cook preserved the memory +of the prior visits of the English by inscribing, _Georgius Tertius, +Rex_, Annis 1767, 1769, 1773, 1774, and 1777. The natives pointed out +the grave of the commodore of the two ships who died there during their +first visit. + +The expeditions of the Spaniards to Otaheite and the neighbouring +islands had been undertaken in consequence of the jealousy of the +Spanish Government at the visits of the English to the South Seas. The +first was under the command of Don Domingo Bonechea, in the Aguila +frigate, in 1772. He gave so favourable a report of the islands that he +was again sent out in 1774, having on board two monks of the order of +Saint Francis, a linguist, a portable house, sheep, cattle, and +implements. Having landed them at Oheitepeha Bay, as soon as the house +was up he set sail to make further discoveries. He then returned to the +bay, and six days afterwards died, and was buried, with becoming +ceremonies, at the foot of the cross, which was erected with great pomp, +amid the chanting of masses and the discharge of musketry. + +In 1775 a third visit was paid by the Aguila, sent from Callao, to +ascertain the fate of the missionaries. They were found to be utterly +disappointed, and determined to abandon their task, having made no +progress in the conversion of the natives, and were so alarmed at the +human sacrifices constantly taking place that they would only consent to +remain under the protection of a Spanish garrison. + +In God's providence, the people of Otaheite were destined to receive, +from Protestant missionaries, a simpler and purer faith than that taught +by the priests of Rome. To that faith they have held fast, in spite of +all the efforts and machinations of the Romanists. + +While in this bay, as an abundant supply of cocoanuts could be obtained, +Captain Cook proposed to his crew that, as it was important they should +economise their spirits, they should give up their grog, except on +Saturday nights, and drink cocoanut milk instead. To this, without a +moment's hesitation, they consented, as did Captain Clerke's crew. On +their first arrival in this place red feathers were looked on as of +great value, but as everybody had them on board they soon became a drug +in the market. Poor Omai began very soon to exhibit his want of +judgment. He had prepared a crown or cap of yellow and red feathers for +Otoo, the king of all the islands, which the captain recommended him to +present himself. Instead of so doing, his vanity induced him to exhibit +it before Waheiadooa, the chief of that part, who thereupon kept the +crown himself and sent only a few tufts to the king. + +On August 23 the ships moved to Matavai Bay. The following morning the +captain landed with Omai and several officers, to pay his respects to +the king, who was attended by his father, his two brothers, three +sisters, and a large number of people. Omai, who was becomingly +dressed, kneeled and embraced the king's legs, but very little notice +was taken of him. He made the king a present of some red feathers and +three yards of gold cloth; and the captain gave him a suit of fine +linen, a gold-laced hat, some more red feathers, and some tools. +Captain Cook's wish had been to leave Omai with Otoo, as he thought of +landing all his animals here, and supposed that Omai would assist in +looking after them, and show their various uses. He therefore +encouraged the friendship of Omai with the chiefs, even though it might +have depended much on his supposed wealth. Omai, however, rejecting his +kind friend's advice, conducted himself in so imprudent a manner that he +soon lost the friendship of Otoo, and of every other person of note in +Otaheite. He associated with none but vagabonds and strangers, whose +sole object was to plunder him; and had not the captain interfered they +would not have left him a single article worth carrying from the island. +Of course, this drew on him the ill-will of the chiefs, who found that +they could not procure such valuable presents as Omai bestowed on the +lowest of the people, his companions. + +After dinner the captain and a party of officers accompanied Otoo to +Oparree, taking with them the poultry with which they were to stock the +island. They consisted of a peacock and hen, a turkey-cock and hen, one +gander and three geese, and a drake and four ducks; all left with the +king. A gander was found there, left by Captain Wallis, several goats, +and a fine Spanish bull, which was kept tied to a tree near Otoo's +house. Three cows and a bull, some sheep, and the horse and mare were +also landed, greatly to the captain's satisfaction, and to that of +everybody else on board, probably, when it is considered what care and +attention it must have required to keep them alive for so many months. +A piece of ground was also cleared for a garden, and in it, among other +things, were planted several shaddock trees, which had been brought from +the Friendly Islands, two pine-apple plants, some melons and potatoes. +The Spaniards had left a vine, which flourished, but before the grapes +were ripe the natives tasted them, and finding them sour, nearly +destroyed it. It was, however, pruned, and cuttings were taken from it, +and the natives were advised to wait till the fruit was ripe another +season. + +The youth called Oedidee, whose real name was Heeteheete, who had been +seven months with Captain Cook, was here met with. The captain gave him +a chest of tools, and some clothes had been sent out for his use; but +after a few days he declined wearing them. One of the natives who had +been on board one of the Spanish ships had also resumed his native +garments, and "perhaps," Captain Cook observes, "Omai, who has almost +entirely assumed English manners, will do the same." + +While the ships lay at Matavai news was brought that the people of Eimeo +had revolted, and it was resolved to send Towha, with a fleet, against +them. Before the fleet could sail it was necessary that a grand human +sacrifice should be offered. The unhappy victim--one of the common +people--had already been knocked on the head for the purpose. Captain +Cook, wishing to ascertain the truth of the accounts he had received, +accompanied Otoo to witness the ceremony, and with him Mr Anderson and +Mr Webber, followed by Omai in a canoe. Every facility was given them +for witnessing the barbarous and disgusting rite. The English were +allowed to examine the victim, who was a man of middle age, and had been +killed by a blow on the right temple. Forty-nine skulls were counted in +one heap, which, as they had suffered little change by the weather, had +belonged to people evidently not long killed. + +On the captain's return he met Towha, who became very angry because he +positively refused to assist him in his proposed expedition. + +Omai gave an entertainment on shore about this time, at which the king +condescended to attend; and the following day a party dined with their +old shipmate Oedidee; among other dishes, admirably dressed, was a hog +weighing about thirty pounds, which an hour or two before was alive. +Some fireworks, let off before a large concourse of people, frightened +some of them so much that they could scarcely be kept together. On the +return of Otoo, on September 13, from assisting at another human +sacrifice, the two captains mounted the two horses, and took a ride +round the plains of Matavai, to the astonishment of a large number of +people. The ride was repeated every day, and seemed to convey to the +natives a better idea of the greatness of the English than any of the +other novelties brought to them by their European visitors. + +Most of the chiefs and other people of importance who were known to the +English during their former visit were still alive, and as the island +had enjoyed the blessings of peace, it seemed to be in a very +flourishing condition. Omai received here one present from Towha in +return for the many he had given away; this was a handsome double canoe, +ready for sea; but when he exhibited himself on board in a suit of chain +armour, so unpopular had he become that the people would not look at +him. He had all along entertained the idea that Captain Cook would take +him back to Ulietea, and reinstate him by force of arms on his father's +property. This made him refuse to remain at Otaheite. + +On leaving that island, on September 30, the ships proceeded to Eimeo. +Omai, in his canoe, had arrived some time before. An excellent harbour +was found, in which the ships lay close to the shore. The Resolution +was much infested by rats, and, as an expedient to get rid of them, she +was hauled as close in with the shore as the depth of water would allow, +and some stout hawsers were fastened to the trees to afford them a +bridge to cross over. The natives would scarcely have thanked their +visitors for the gifts intended for them, but whether any rats were thus +got rid of is not known. The natives managed, however, to carry off a +goat, which, as it was of value for the purpose of stocking other +islands, it was necessary to recover. This, however, was not done till +several canoes and some houses had been burned. + +The island is described as rising in one hill, with very little level +ground, and the people, especially the women, were said to be inferior +in appearance to those of the neighbouring islands. Another day's sail +brought the ships to the entrance of the harbour of Owharre, on the west +side of the island of Huaheine. As Omai refused to attempt the recovery +of his property in Ulietea, except by force of arms, Captain Cook +determined to leave him here, making the best terms with the chief that +he could. The English were received on shore by a large concourse of +people, many of whom appeared to be people of consequence; the king was, +however, only a child. It is painful to read the following account +given of the meeting:--"Omai began with making his offering to the gods, +consisting of red feathers, cloth, etcetera. Then followed another +offering, which was to be given to the gods by the chief: each article +was laid before a priest, who presented it with a prayer dictated by +Omai, who did not forget his friends in England, nor those who had +brought him safely back. The King of England, Lord Sandwich, Cook, and +Clerke were mentioned in every one of them." + +Finally, the chief agreed to give Omai a piece of ground extending about +two hundred yards along the shore of the harbour, and reaching to the +foot of the hill. Here observatories were set up, and the carpenters of +both ships were set to work to build a house for Omai, in which he might +secure his European commodities. At the same time some hands were +employed on shore, making a garden for his use, planting shaddocks, +vines, pine-apples melons, and other seeds, many of which were in a +flourishing state before the English left the island. Omai here found a +brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law, but they were not people +capable of affording him any protection. Cook, therefore, advised him +to make handsome presents to some of the chiefs, that they might be +induced to protect him. To increase his security, Captain Cook took +every opportunity of impressing on the inhabitants that he purposed +returning, and that should he not find Omai in the state of security in +which he left him, his enemies might expect to feel the weight of his +resentment. + +On the 22nd a man found means of carrying off a sextant from Mr +Bayley's observatory. Omai fixed on the culprit, who was a Bolabola +man, a hardened scoundrel. He confessed that he had taken the +instrument, and would show where it was. This did not save him, +however, from having his head and beard shaved, and both his ears cut +off, as a terror to the rest. + +Omai's house being nearly finished on the 26th, many of his movables +were carried on shore. Among a variety of other useless articles was a +box of toys, which seemed greatly to please the multitude; but his +plates, dishes, mugs, and glasses he saw would be of no use to him, and +he therefore exchanged them with the crew for hatchets and other iron +tools. He is said to have had an electrical machine, a portable organ, +a coat of mail, and a helmet. He had also a musket and bayonet, a +fowling-piece, two pairs of pistols, and two or three swords or +cutlasses. The possession of these made him quite happy, though Cook +was of opinion that he would have been better without them. A horse and +mare, a boar and two sows, and a goat with kid were likewise given to +him. + +The following inscription was cut on the outside of Omai's house:-- + +_Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777_. + +_Naves Resolution, Jacobus Cook, Pr. Discovery, Carolus Clerke, Pr_. + +On bidding his friends farewell Omai sustained himself with firmness, +till he came to Captain Cook, when his utmost efforts failed to conceal +his tears, and he wept all the time of going on shore. Even at last he +would have remained on board the Resolution. The two New Zealand youths +were very anxious to remain with the English, and the younger, who was a +witty, smart boy, and consequently much noticed, had to be carried on +shore by force. + +Deep interest was often expressed in England as to the fate of the +"gentle savage" who had been brought from the South Seas, and so soon +learned the manners of civilised life. Had he devoted his talents to +the instruction of his countrymen, and raised their condition to a state +somewhat resembling what he had seen existing in England? + +Many years passed before the truth was known, and yet who that has read +the account given of him by Cook, and remembers that he remained to the +last a dark idolater, could have expected otherwise from him? Mr +Ellis, in his _Polynesian Researches_, gives the account:-- + +"Soon after the departure of his friends he assumed the native dress, +and at the same time gave himself up to the vices, indolence, and +barbarism of his countrymen. The only use he made of the horses left +with him was to ride about the country for the purpose of astonishing or +frightening the more ignorant natives; and so far from lamenting the +barbarous condition of the people, and endeavouring to raise them in the +social scale, his great delight consisted in exhibiting the superiority +which his English weapons enabled him to assume. As his firearms, +especially, had rendered him a powerful subject, he married the daughter +of a chief who made himself king, and was invested with the high title +of _Patiri_ (wise and instructed). He had now gained the position his +philosophical friends in England had desired for him, and had a +favourable opportunity of acquiring the title of his country's +benefactor, which they had hoped he would deserve. But how did he +employ his advantages? + +"From thenceforth," adds the narrator, "he continued the inglorious tool +of the king's cruel and wanton humour, assisting him with his musket in +time of war, and in peace frequently amusing the monarch by shooting at +his subjects at a distance, or gratifying his revenge by despatching, +with a pistol, those who had incurred his wrath. + +"He died within three years after his celebrated voyage, and the New +Zealanders did not long survive him. His name is now rarely mentioned, +except with contempt or execration. The site of his dwelling is, by the +natives, still called Beritain (Britain); and amid the ruins of the +garden they show a dark and glossy-leaved shaddock tree, which they love +to tell was planted by the hands of Cook. The horses which he left did +not long survive; but the breeds of goats and pigs yet remain; many of +the trinkets, part of the armour, and some of the cutlasses are also +preserved; and the numerous coloured engravings of a large quarto Bible +are objects of general attraction. + +"There is, perhaps, no place in the island to which greater interest is +attached; for besides its association with the name just mentioned, on +this spot was reared the first building in which the true God was +publicly worshipped in Huaheine; and here, also, was erected the first +school for the instruction of the benighted inhabitants in the knowledge +of letters and the principles of Christianity." + +On leaving Huaheine the ships stood over to Ulietea, and the following +day, November 3, entered the harbour of Ohamaneno. Here they hauled +close in with the shore, and made another attempt to get rid of their +troublesome guests the rats. The captain's old friend, Oreo, chief of +the island, and his son-in-law, Pootoe, at once came off to visit him; +the visit was returned, and amicable relations were soon established. +In spite of this, however, thefts were continually committed; and other +circumstances arose which seemed to threaten a rupture of this +friendship. + +One of these events was the desertion of a marine, who, being on duty, +went off, carrying his arms with him. Captain Cook, with a few of his +people, instantly pursued the man, fearing that he would have escaped to +the mountains. He was soon discovered, however, among the natives, who +readily delivered him up to the captain. But a more serious case of +desertion took place a few days afterwards--that of a midshipman and a +seaman. The captain, thereupon, set off with two armed boats, but could +not find the fugitives, hearing only that they had gone over to the +neighbouring island of Bolabola. + +The next morning, the chief, his son and daughter, and his son-in-law +came on board the Resolution, and the three last-mentioned were invited +to the Discovery, with a view to their detention there till the +deserters should be brought back--an act of high-handed injustice of +which, one would suppose, no amount of condescension and familiarity on +the part of the English was likely to efface the remembrance. + +At any rate, the step thus taken caused great consternation among the +natives, many of whom, including many women, came off in canoes under +the stern of the ship, and bewailed the captivity of the king's +daughter. Oreo, on his part, quickly aroused himself, and sent off +canoes to Bolabola and elsewhere to find the fugitives. The natives, in +the meantime, in a spirit of natural retaliation, formed a plan for +seizing Captain Cook while bathing, as was his custom every morning. +Failing in this, they attempted to make prisoners of Captain Clerke and +Mr Gore. News, indeed, was brought off to the ships that they had been +captured; and Mr King, with several armed boats, was immediately +despatched to rescue them, when it was found that they had escaped the +plot, probably owing their safety to the fact that Captain Clerke +carried a pistol in his hand. Oreo must have been aware of the plot, +for he more than once asked Captain Cook why he did not go and bathe as +usual. + +The chief at length set out for Bolabola, it being arranged that the +ships should follow; but a strong wind kept them in harbour, and the +next day he returned with the two deserters, who had gone from Bolabola +to the small island of Toobaee, where they were taken by the father of +Pootoe. The three captives were then released. Before leaving the +island, Captain Cook presented Oreo with an English boar and sow and two +goats. Oreo and several chiefs took a passage on board the English +ships to Bolabola, which was reached the day after they left Ulietea. A +large concourse of people, with the great chief Opoony in their midst, +were ready to receive the English. + +One object Captain Cook had in putting in here was to obtain one of the +anchors which Monsieur Bougainville had lost at Otaheite, and which, +having been taken up by the people there, had been sent as a present to +Opoony. That chief, with remarkable honesty, positively refused to +accept any present till the anchor had been seen, not believing it worth +what was offered. Cook's object was to manufacture it into tools and +nails, of which he had run short. He insisted on his presents being +taken, and was glad to get the old iron for the object he had in view. +Very many years afterwards the missionary Williams was, in the same +manner, thankful to find an old anchor, out of which he manufactured the +ironwork required for the missionary vessel he was building, the +Messenger of Peace. + +As a ram had before been conveyed to the island, the captain made a +present of a ewe to Opoony, hoping thus that the island might be stocked +in time with a breed of sheep. + +He now prepared to take his departure for the north; and as this was the +last visit paid by Cook to these islands his opinion may be quoted,-- +that it would have been better for the people of the Pacific Islands had +they never been discovered by Europeans, than once having become +acquainted with them and their goods to be afterwards left to their own +resources. "When their iron tools are worn out, and the use of their +stone ones is forgotten, how are they to get others?" he asks; and adds, +"it is incumbent, therefore, on Europeans, to visit them once in three +or four years, in order to supply them with those conveniences which we +have introduced to them." + +The minds of those enlightened and civilised visitors were occupied with +the glory of their achievements as discoverers of hitherto unknown +lands; their remaining thoughts, which they would have called patriotic, +were principally occupied with the question how these discoveries might +be turned to account for the profit and honour of England; and if a nook +remained for a benevolent wish for "the savages," the wish was limited +to the improvement of their material condition. Otherwise, as the +English discoverer found them, so he was willing that they should +remain, satisfied with the idea that he had increased the productive +powers of the different lands he visited. + +Thus, also, in the case of the wretched Omai, whose end we have seen. +It seems scarcely to have entered the minds of those who, in England, +petted and spoiled him, that he had a soul as valuable, or rather as +invaluable, as theirs; and that he needed, as all need, the transforming +influences of Divine grace to make him a future blessing, instead of a +curse, to his poor countrymen. We are told, indeed, of his being slow +to receive Christian instruction; and we read also that, among his goods +and chattels collected in England, he had a large quarto Bible, with +coloured engravings--a book, however, which was a sealed book to him and +his countrymen. + +The ships now stood north, and, on December 24, discovered an +uninhabited island, with a lagoon. It was hoped that turtle would +abound here; they therefore came to an anchor. The voyagers were not +disappointed, and a considerable number were taken. Two men, while thus +employed, lost themselves in different parts of the island, and as there +was not a drop of water to be found, they suffered greatly from thirst, +especially one who would not drink turtle's blood. They were both +happily recovered. The telescopes were landed, and on December 30 an +eclipse of the sun was observed. Not a trace of any inhabitants having +ever been on the island could be discovered. There were about thirty +cocoanut trees, but the fruit was of an inferior quality. Three hundred +turtle were taken, and as many fish as could be consumed; but not a drop +of fresh water could be found. As Christmas was spent here, the name of +Christmas Island was given to the new discovery. It lies in latitude 1 +degrees 41 minutes North and longitude 157 degrees 15 minutes East. +Some cocoanuts and yams were planted on the island, and some +melon-seeds; while a bottle was deposited, with the names of the ships +and the date of the visit. The ships sailed thence on January 2, 1778, +and proceeded northward. The wind blew faintly at first, and then +freshened, and albatrosses, with other birds, were seen increasing in +number--all indications of land being near, though none was seen till +the 18th, when first one high island and then another hove in sight. On +the 19th the first seen bore east, several leagues distant, and being to +windward could not be approached. On standing towards the other, a +third island was discovered in the direction of west-north-west. At +first it was doubtful whether the islands were inhabited, but that +question was soon solved by the appearance of several canoes, which came +alongside; but the people in them would not at first venture on board, +though they willingly exchanged a few fish and some sweet potatoes for +nails and other articles offered them. They spoke the language of +Otaheite and of the other islands lately visited. They were of a brown +colour, of an ordinary size, and the cast of their features was not +unlike that of Europeans. Some wore their hair long, others short, but +all had stained it of a brown colour. Some were slightly tattooed, and +all wore the usual girdle, stained red, white, and black. As the ships +sailed along the coast, looking for a harbour, numerous villages were +observed, with plantations of sugar-canes and plantains, while vast +numbers of people crowded the shore, or collected in elevated places, to +watch the ships. + +The next day, the ships again standing in, several natives ventured on +board, and showed by the wild looks and gestures with which they +regarded everything on board that they had never before been visited by +Europeans. They knew the value of iron, however, when they saw it, and +it was supposed that they had gained their knowledge of it from the fact +that the masts and spars of a ship with iron attached, and casks with +iron hoops, had been cast on their shore. They soon proved themselves +to be daring thieves, and unhappily, a boat being sent on shore, on +their attempting to seize the oars they were fired at, and one man was +killed. Of this circumstance Captain Cook was not informed at the time. + +As soon as Captain Cook landed, the people assembled fell flat on their +faces; nor would they rise till by expressive gestures he urged them to +do so. He understood that this was the way they paid respect to their +own great chiefs. Having arranged about getting a supply of water, he +walked with Messrs. Anderson and Wilder into the country, to visit an +obelisk of wickerwork, fifty feet high, standing in a morai. A native +had been selected as a guide, and wherever they went the people fell +prostrate before the captain. The morai was similar to those seen at +Otaheite. In and about it were a number of idols, one having on its +head what resembled an ancient helmet. They ascertained, without doubt, +that human sacrifices were offered up at these morais. On the +wickerwork were pieces of grey cloth, such as was generally offered to +idols, and a piece of which had been pressed on the captain on landing. +The next day, among other articles brought off, were some beautiful +cloaks of red and other feathers, and helmets and caps of the same. + +Captain Cook, in his journal, expresses his belief that the people were +cannibals. This arose from seeing a man on board who had a piece of +salted meat done up in a cloth, and which he said that he ate to do him +good. It seems to have been highly dried and seasoned, and to have been +taken as a stimulant. + +The natives called their island Atooi, and Captain Cook gave the name of +the Sandwich Islands to the whole group. The friendly disposition of +the natives was shown on all occasions, especially when three boats went +on shore, and, bad weather coming on, were detained for several days. +Five islands were seen on this occasion, and were distinguished by the +names of Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. The islands +were mostly high, well watered, and apparently thickly populated. + +It was found that the taboo existed with even greater vigour than at +Tongataboo, for the people constantly asked, with signs of fear, whether +anything they desired to see, and the English were unwilling to show, +was taboo, or, as they pronounced the word, tafoo. + +On February 2, 1778, the ships left the Sandwich Islands, and stood +towards the coast of America. + +On March 7, early in the morning, the long-looked-for coast of New +Albion, so-called by Sir Francis Drake, hove in sight. The ships stood +along the coast, now off and now on again, with uncertain weather, till +at length, on March 29, an inlet appeared in latitude 49 degrees 15 +minutes North, and longitude 126 degrees 35 minutes East. The ships +sailed up this inlet for several miles, when they cast anchor. Natives +came off in three canoes, shaped like Norway yawls. Having drawn near, +a person stood up in one of them and invited the strangers, in a speech +and by gesture, to land, at the same time strewing handfuls of red +feathers towards them, while his companions threw red dust in the same +way. The next day a large number of people came off, who all behaved in +the most peaceable manner, and offered for sale a number of skins of +bears, foxes, wolves, deer, racoon, polecats, martens, and sea otters. +The difficulty was to find articles to exchange for these really +valuable commodities, for the natives would receive nothing but metal, +and, at last, insisted on having brass. To supply them, whole suits of +clothes were stripped of their buttons, bureaus of their handles, and +copper kettles, tin canisters, and candlesticks went to wreck. The +ships required a great deal of repairs, and even some fresh masts, and +for this purpose they were hauled close into the shore and securely +moored. The natives called this inlet Nootka Sound, but Captain Cook +gave it the name of King George's Sound. + +Two persons were on board the ships at this time whose names afterwards +became well-known--Mr Vancouver, then a midshipman of the Resolution, +who afterwards, as Captain Vancouver, made many important discoveries on +the coast then visited, and gave his name to a valuable island, now a +colony of Great Britain; and Corporal Ledyard, whose travels in Siberia +were of a very extraordinary character. + +The clothing of the people of Nootka Sound consisted of a dress of flax, +fringed with fur, and reaching to the feet; and over it a cloak of the +same substance, with a hole cut in it, through which the head was +thrust, and which hung down over the shoulders and arms as low as the +waist. The head was covered with a hat like a truncated cone of +matting, with a knob or tassel at the top, and strung under the chin. A +large cloak of bear or wolf skin was occasionally worn over all. They +also, at times, wore wooden masks. Their habitations were made of +planks loosely put together, about seven or eight feet in height in +front, and higher at the back. Several families resided in each, with a +very slight division between them. Each had its own bench, and in the +centre was the fire, without hearth or chimney. At the ends were seen +trunks of trees, carved into hideous images, and rudely painted, +supposed to be their gods, though but little veneration was paid them. +Two silver spoons, of old Spanish manufacture, were obtained here from a +native, who wore them as ornaments round his neck. + +The progress of the ships along this coast can be but briefly described. +Although the mercury in the barometer fell very rapidly, Captain Cook +was so anxious to put to sea that he kept to his purpose of sailing on +April 26. A perfect hurricane came on ere long, in which the Resolution +sprang a serious leak. When the weather moderated one pump kept it +under. The ships proceeded along the coast, and several islands and +headlands were seen and named. + +The voyagers landed at several places, and had some intercourse with the +natives. One inlet, where the ships brought up, was named Prince +William's Sound. Here the natives made a daring attempt to plunder the +Discovery, a mob of them getting on board, evidently under the +impression that she was feebly guarded. But before they had time to +carry out their nefarious design, the crew came on deck with their +cutlasses, and the plunderers went off in their canoes. + +Captain Cook, believing that it was too late in the year to do anything +of importance in the way of fresh discoveries, resolved to return to the +south, and wait at the Sandwich Islands till the next season. + +From Prince William's Sound the ships proceeded along the coast, +steering south-west, and passing many more capes, till the mouth of a +large river was found, up which they sailed. A volcano was here seen, +emitting smoke, but no fire. + +A number of natives, of no very prepossessing appearance, now came off +the banks of the river to the ships, and a considerable quantity of +skins were obtained from them. It was held by some on board that this +river might be a strait, leading to Hudson's Bay; and to settle this +question Captain Cook sailed up it nearly seventy leagues from its +mouth, at which distance it still seemed to be a river, and nothing +more, upon which the explorers returned. On June 1, Lieutenant King was +sent on shore to display the royal flag, and to take possession of the +country, as in former instances, in the name of the King of Great +Britain. In describing this inlet Captain Cook left a blank in the +chart, and therefore the Earl of Sandwich directed that it should be +called Cook's Inlet. + +Leaving Prince William's Sound, the next place reached was the island of +Oonolaschka. Here, at different times, some canoes came off with +natives, who had bows of the European fashion, and delivered two Russian +letters, the purport of which could not be understood. + +During the stay of the ships at this island a canoe was upset, and the +occupant, a fine young man, was brought on board the Resolution, when, +without hesitation, he entered the captain's cabin, and exchanged his +wet garments for a European suit of clothes, which he put on with +perfect ease. + +Soon after this the expedition suffered a very great loss in the death +of Mr Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution, who had long been +suffering from consumption. The ships were proceeding northward at the +time, along the coast of Asia, but were compelled to return on account +of the shallowness of the water. An island in sight was called +Anderson's Island, to perpetuate the memory of that gentleman. + +On the 9th the ships anchored under a point of land to which the name of +Cape Prince of Wales was given, and which was considered the most +western point of America. It is only thirteen leagues distant from the +eastern cape of Siberia. Thence they stood over to the coast of Siberia +to the country of Tschutski. Again sailing, the ships steered to the +east, and on the 18th fell in with the ice, which, in latitude 70 +degrees 44 minutes, was as compact as a wall, and ten or twelve feet +high, being much higher farther to the north. It was covered with +sea-horses, a number of which were caught, and, in spite of the +prejudices of some of the crew, were found to be superior to salt pork. +Cook continued to traverse the Arctic Sea, beyond Behring's Straits, in +various directions till the 29th, when the ice beginning to form rapidly +he abandoned all hope of attaining his object that year. + +On October 3 the ships anchored in the harbour of Samganoodha, in the +island of Oonolaschka. The carpenters at once set to work to repair the +ships. While they lay here, each of the captains received the present +of a well-known Russian dish. It consisted of a salmon, highly +seasoned, and baked in a coating of rye bread like a loaf. The loaves +were accompanied by notes in Russian. A few bottles of rum, wine, and +porter were sent in return by Corporal Ledyard, who was directed to make +the Russians understand that the strangers were English and their +friends, and to gain all the information in his power. On the 14th a +visit was received from a Russian of considerable ability. Cook +entrusted to his care a letter and chart for the Lords Commissioners of +the Admiralty, which were duly delivered. The natives of this island +were the best behaved and most peaceably disposed of any yet met with, +while not one of them was found guilty of an act of dishonesty. They +were, however, far from moral in their conduct. + +Samganoodha Harbour was left on October 20, and the ships proceeded +south towards the Sandwich Islands. Cook's intention was to spend the +winter there, and to return to Kamtschatka by the middle of May. In +case of separation he directed Captain Clerke to meet him at the +Sandwich Islands for the first place of rendezvous, and the harbour of +Fetropaulowska, in Kamtschatka, for the second. The rigging of the +ships had now become very bad; on board the Discovery the main-tack gave +way, killed one man, and wounded the boatswain and two others. + +On November 25 one of the Sandwich Islands, called by the natives Mowee, +hove in sight. Several canoes came off, belonging to a chief named +Terreeoboo; but as another island was discovered, called Owhyhee, [now +altered in spelling to Hawaii] which it was found possible to fetch, the +ships stood towards it, and their visitors accordingly left them. On +the morning of December 2 the summits of the mountains of Owhyhee were +seen, covered with snow. On the evening an eclipse of the moon was +observed. For several weeks the ships continued plying round the +island, bartering with the natives, who came off with hogs, fowls, +fruit, and roots. On January 16, 1779, a bay being discovered, the +masters were sent in to examine it, and having reported favourably, the +ships, on the next day, came to an anchor in Karakakooa Bay. + +The ships were crowded with visitors, but not a single person had a +weapon of any sort. There must have been at least a thousand about the +two ships, and one of them took the rudder out of a boat and made off +with it. Cook ordered some muskets and four-pounders to be fired over +the canoe which was escaping. The multitude, however, seemed more +surprised than frightened. + +Besides those who had come off in canoes the shore of the bay was +covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the +ships, like shoals of fish. Few of the voyagers now regretted that they +had been unable to find a north-west passage home in the summer, as they +"thus had it in their power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to +enrich the voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed in +many respects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by +Europeans throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean." + +This paragraph concludes Captain Cook's journal; they were probably the +last words he ever wrote. Captain King is our chief authority for the +remaining transactions of the voyage. + +Among the chiefs who attached themselves to the English was a young man +named Pareea, who introduced himself as an officer of the king of the +island, then gone on a military expedition to Mowee. That he had great +influence among his people was evident, for so large a number of people +had collected on one side of the Discovery that they made her heel over; +Captain Cook pointed out the fact to him, and he immediately cleared the +ship. Another chief, the next day, cleared the Resolution in the same +way; and one man loitering behind, he took him up in his arms and threw +him into the sea. They brought on board a third chief, once a warrior, +now a priest, named Koah, a little old man of emaciated figure, his red +eyes and scaly skin showing he was a hard drinker of cava. Not far from +the shore was a temple, or morai. It was a square, solid pile of +stones, about forty yards long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height. +The top was flat and well-paved, and surrounded by a wooden rail, on +which were fixed the skulls of the victims sacrificed on the death of +their chiefs. At one end was a kind of scaffold, and on the opposite +side, towards the sea, two small houses with a covered communication. +At the entrance were two large wooden images, with features violently +distorted, and on the head of each was a large piece of carved wood, of +a conical form, inverted. The lower part was without form, and wrapped +round with a red cloth. Not far off, in a retired grove by the side of +a pool, was a collection of huts, inhabited by priests who attended this +temple, of which Koah was the chief. There were two villages on the +shores of the bay--one on the north point, called Kowrooa, and at the +bottom of the bay one still larger, called Kakooa. + +Our narrative is now drawing near to the tragic scene which terminated +both the labours and life of Captain James Cook. But, to understand +what led to that event, a preliminary explanation must be given. + +The natives of Owhyhee had a legend to the effect that a certain god, +Rono, or Orono, formerly lived near Karakakooa Bay, and that, having +killed his wife in a fit of jealousy, remorse drove him from the island. +He set sail in a strangely shaped canoe, promising that he would return +on a floating island, furnished with all that man could desire. When, +therefore, the English ships appeared, their commander was supposed to +be the long-absent Rono, come to restore peace and prosperity to the +country. + +The priest Koah having dined on board the Resolution, accompanied +Captain Cook and Mr King on shore--Mr King being taken for the son of +the former. They were met by four men, having wands tipped with dog's +hair, and who shouted a short sentence in which the word Orono was +plainly distinguishable and frequently repeated. During this progress +the crowd either rushed away as in fear, or fell prostrate on the ground +around the party. Koah led the way into the morai, and, chanting a +hymn, took the captain to a sort of altar, on which were arranged twelve +idols in a semicircle, while on a table, before the centre one, which +nearly resembled the idols of Otaheite, lay a putrid hog. A tall young +man, with a beard, Kaireekeea by name, having presented Cook to the +idols, old Koah put the putrid hog to his nose, and then let it drop. +At this time a procession approached, bearing a hog and red cloth. +Kaireekeea went forward to meet them, when they all prostrated +themselves. The hog then was offered to the captain by Koah, who wound +the red cloth round him. Chanting followed. Captain Cook, meanwhile, +had considerable difficulty in keeping his seat upon the rotten +scaffolding. They then descended, and as Koah passed the images he +snapped his fingers at them, and said something in a sneering tone. He, +however, prostrated himself before the centre figure, and kissed it, and +induced the captain to do the same. The captain and Mr King were then +led to another division of the morai, where, in a sunk space, three or +four feet deep, they took their seats between two wooden idols, Koah +holding up one of the captain's arms, and King the other. While here +another procession arrived, with a baked hog and vegetables. Cook put +an end to the ceremony as soon as he could, and returned on board. + +No doubt the proceedings of the old priest and the people were in some +measure incomprehensible to Captain Cook; but it is certain that, in +bearing a prominent part in the mummery just narrated, he must have been +aware that he was encouraging heathen idolatry and hero-worship in its +grossest forms. It is not to be supposed that he was acquainted with +the legend of Rono; but the conduct of the people must have shown him +their utter debasement, and he can scarcely have failed to perceive that +by submitting to their ceremonies, and taking a part in them, he was +lowering himself to their level. + +It is probable that Captain Cook expected, by yielding to the +superstitions of the natives, to obtain greater facilities for trading, +and keeping up amicable relations with them. If so, the subsequent +events prove how baseless were these anticipations, while the reader +will scarcely fail to be reminded of the striking Scripture narrative of +the king of whom the people shouted, "It is the voice of a god, and not +of a man!" and who "gave not God the glory." + +The day following that on which the events described took place, Mr +King, with a company of marines, landed, and erected an observatory near +the morai, the ground being marked off by the priests. For some unknown +reason--but one probably connected with the previous exhibition--the +entire bay was tabooed for a day or two, and no canoes ventured off with +provisions. The priests, however, sent to the observatory, and also to +the ships, a regular supply of hogs and vegetables for Orono, as if they +were discharging a religious duty, and would take nothing in return. +Whenever, too, after this, Captain Cook went on shore, he was attended +by one of the priests, who gave notice to the people to prostrate +themselves; and inferior chiefs often requested to be allowed to make +offerings of hogs, which they did with evident marks of fear in their +countenances. + +On January 24, 1779, the bay was again tabooed on account of the arrival +of the king, Terreeoboo, who soon came off privately in a canoe, with +his wife and children. He was found to be the same infirm old man who +had come on board the Resolution when the ships were off Mowee. The +next day the king came off in state, on board a large canoe, attended by +two others. + +In the first he himself came, dressed, as were his attendant chiefs, in +rich feathered cloaks, and armed with long spears and helmets. In the +second were Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and his brethren, with idols +of wickerwork of gigantic size, covered with feathers of different +colours and red cloth. Their eyes were large pearl oysters, with a +black mark fixed in the centre; while their mouths were marked with +double rows of dogs' fangs. The whole had a most hideous appearance. +In a third canoe were hogs and vegetables. The visitors, however, did +not go on board, but, inviting the captain on shore, returned. Mr +King, who was at the observatory, ordered out the guard to receive the +party. The king then threw a superb cloak over the captain's shoulders, +and placed a helmet on his head; he then spread at his feet six other +cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful; and his attendants brought four hogs, +with sugar-canes, bread-fruit, and cocoanuts. The ceremony was +concluded by the king exchanging names with Cook. + +An old seaman, greatly attached to Captain Cook, died here, and was +buried in the morai, with the usual funeral service read over him; but +the priests thought they ought to do their part, and threw a dead hog +and plantains into the grave, and for several nights sacrificed hogs, +and chanted their hymns. + +When the ships were about to sail a magnificent present of provisions +was made to the captain; and Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited on him and +entreated that he would leave his supposed son, Mr King, behind. On +February 4 the ship sailed, but met with very bad weather, during which +they picked up two canoes, driven off the land, the people in them +nearly exhausted. In this gale, also, the Resolution sprang her +foremast, and fearing that, should the weather continue, another harbour +might not be found, Cook returned, on the 10th of the month, to +Karakakooa Bay. + +It was observed by some of the explorers on this occasion that the +conduct of the natives had now undergone an ominous change. The bay was +found to be under taboo, and several circumstances occurred which gave +evidence that, from some cause or other, the English were regarded by +the natives with suspicion. And this breach was unhappily widened by +some of the common causes of dispute. For instance, some people from +the island visiting the Discovery, after the taboo was removed, went off +with several articles they had stolen, whereupon the ship opened fire on +the fugitives, and a chief on shore was killed. The stolen articles +were soon returned, but an officer commanding a party on shore not +knowing this seized a canoe belonging to Pareea. In a squabble which +ensued that chief was knocked down. Captain Cook, also, not knowing +that the articles had been brought back, followed the supposed thieves +for several miles in the interior, when, on its getting dark, he +returned unmolested on board. + +The next morning the Discovery's cutter was found to have been carried +off, and Captain Cook resolved to seize the king, and hold him captive +till the boat was returned. For this purpose, loading his +double-barrelled gun, he went on shore with Mr Phillips and nine +marines. Mr King ordered the marines to remain within the tents, to +load their pieces with ball, and not to quit their arms. He then went +up to the huts of the priests, and endeavoured to quiet their alarm, +assuring them that no one would be hurt. Captain Cook, meantime, +proceeded to the king's house, and found him just awake. He easily +persuaded the old man to come on board with two of his sons; but as they +were embarking, one of his wives came down and entreated him not to go +off. + +A vast number of people now began to collect, armed with all sorts of +weapons and their war mats. Captain Cook held the king's hand, and +pressed him to come on; but finding that the lives of many natives might +be sacrificed if he persisted in the attempt, he abandoned it, and only +now thought of how he might best draw off his party. Unfortunately, the +boats stationed in the bay had fired at some canoes trying to get out, +and killed a chief of the first rank. This news quickly reached the +hostile natives. Mr Phillips, on this, withdrew his men to some rocks +close to the water-side. + +The natives now began to throw stones, and one man, especially, +threatened the captain with his dagger. In defence he fired. As the +barrel was only loaded with small shot it killed no one. The other +barrel had a ball in it, with which a man was killed. By this time the +marines had begun to fire, and the captain turned round, either to order +them to cease or to direct the boats to come in, when a tall man struck +him on the back with a long club, and he fell forward on his hands and +knees, letting his fowling-piece drop. A chief with a long dagger now +plunged it into his back; he fell under the water, and the natives, who +crowded round, prevented him from rising. Nothing more was seen of him. +All was now horror and confusion. The natives pressed on the marines, +four of whom were killed before they could reach the boats, and another, +who could not swim, remained struggling in the water, when Lieutenant +Phillips, with heroic gallantry, leaped overboard, and though badly +wounded himself brought the man safely on board the pinnace. Though the +boats still kept up a hot fire, the chiefs were seen plunging their +daggers in the body of Cook, seemingly with the idea that they were +consecrated by the death of so great a man. It was said that old Koah, +who had been long suspected, had been seen going about with a dagger hid +under his cloak, for the purpose, it was supposed, of killing Captain +Cook or some of his officers. + +All this time Lieutenant King, with a party of men, had remained on +shore, at the observatory near the morai. Before long the natives began +to attack them, but met with so warm a reception that they willingly +agreed to a truce. As soon as the murderers of Cook had retired, a +party of young midshipmen pulled to the shore in a skiff, where they saw +the bodies of the marines lying without sign of life; but the danger of +landing was too great to be risked. + +Mr King went on shore to try and negotiate for the body of Cook. On +the 15th a man who had been his constant attendant came off with some +human flesh, saying that the rest had been burnt, but that the head and +bones and hands were in possession of the king. The natives even now +would not believe that Rono was killed. When they saw him fall they +cried out, "This is not Rono!" Others inquired when he would come back, +and whether he would punish them. An order had been given to fire some +houses, but unfortunately the flames communicated to the priests' +dwellings, all of which were consumed, though they had been the best +friends to the English. Several people were shot, attempting to escape. +On the 18th King Terreeoboo sent a chief with presents to sue for +peace; and on the 20th the hands and various parts of the body of Cook +were brought on board, wrapped in a quantity of fine cloth, and covered +with a cloak of black and white feathers. The feet and other parts were +returned the next day, and being placed in a coffin they were committed +to the deep, with the usual naval honours. + +We may imagine the feelings of the members of the expedition as they +witnessed the ceremony, and thought that he who had been so long their +chief, and who had led them successfully through so many dangers, was no +more. The officers might have felt many vain regrets; they might have +asked themselves whether all had been done that could have been done to +save the valuable life which had been so cruelly sacrificed, and whether +the object which had been attempted was adequate to the risk that had +been run. So furious was the rage of the crews of the two ships that +they almost mutinied against their officers, when prevented from going +on shore, as they desired, to wreak their vengeance on the heads of the +natives. It is remarkable that Captain Clerke had received orders to go +on shore and seize the king; but, suffering from the consumption which +was rapidly hurrying him to his grave, he was too weak to leave his +cabin; and, on hearing this, Cook immediately exclaimed that he would go +himself. + +Captain Cook was in the fifty-first year of his age when he was thus +suddenly cut off. He was a man of great intelligence, perseverance, +energy, and determination. He possessed a calm judgment and cool +courage under the most trying difficulties. As a seaman he was probably +unsurpassed. By employing every moment he could snatch from his +professional duties, with the aid of such books as came to his hand, he +made himself a good mathematician and a first-rate astronomer, while few +officers of his day could have equalled him as a marine surveyor and +draughtsman. All subsequent navigators, who have visited the regions he +traversed, have borne evidence to the great accuracy of his surveys, and +the exactness with which he laid down on his charts the numerous lands +he discovered. + +Various opinions have been expressed as to Captain Cook's temper. That +he was, at times, hasty and irritable, there seems to be no doubt; but +this fault was greatly counterbalanced by his kind-hearted and humane +disposition. He seems to have had the power of attracting both officers +and men to his person; hence many who had accompanied him in his first +voyage volunteered to serve under him again in his subsequent +expeditions. At the same time he was stern and determined, though +always just; and he considered it his duty, when necessary, to carry out +to the full the rigid discipline of the Navy in those days. He was a +kind and affectionate husband and father, and it is said that his +portrait at Greenwich Hospital, from which numerous copies have been +made, does not convey a satisfactory idea of the ordinary expression of +his countenance. It was painted, at the earnest desire of Sir Joseph +Banks, by Sir Nathaniel Dance, just before Cook left England on his last +expedition, and as the mind of the navigator was probably far away on +board his vessels, the grave and preoccupied expression which the +portrait exhibits is fully accounted for. + +His ability as a seaman, and his calmness in danger, inspired the most +perfect confidence in all who served under him, so that in times of the +greatest trial he could always reckon on being implicitly obeyed; it is +said that, placing reliance on his officers, after he had given his +directions, he would retire to rest, and sleep as soundly as though no +danger were near. Such is the character drawn of the great navigator by +those who knew him; but we shall form a more just estimate of him if we +consider the work he accomplished. We have only to compare a chart of +the Pacific before Cook's time, and to note the wide blanks and the +erroneous position of lands, with one drawn from his surveys, to see at +a glance the extent of his discoveries; but a still higher estimation +will be formed of them if we judge of them by their value to the present +generation. Let us consider the importance of his admirable survey of +the whole eastern coast of New Holland, showing its vast size and +insular character. Not less important was his survey of the islands of +New Zealand, which, with New Holland, or Australia, are now among the +most valuable possessions of the British crown. He discovered New +Caledonia, and surveyed most of the islands of the New Hebrides, and +other islands in the Austral Ocean. He made known to the world the +larger portion of the Friendly Islands, or Tonga group, as also of the +Marquesas. Nothing can surpass the general accuracy of his description +of the habits and customs of the inhabitants of Otaheite. He completed +the discovery and survey of the Society Islands. He was successful in +his search for Easter, or Davis Island, which had in vain been +looked-for by several previous navigators. He visited the groups of the +Low, or Coral Archipelago, and discovered the numerous separate islands +of Norfolk, Botany, Palmerston, Hervey, Savage, Mangaia, Wateeoo, +Otakootaia, Turtle, Toobouai, and Christmas. His most important +discovery was his last--that of the Sandwich Islands--since become an +independent and semi-civilised kingdom. He sailed along the North +American coast, where, from unavoidable circumstances, his surveys were +less accurate than usual. They were, however, completed, many years +after, by his follower Captain Vancouver. He ascertained the breadth of +the strait between America and Asia to be eighteen leagues, a point left +unsettled by Behring, and many years passed before any navigator +penetrated farther to the north than he had done. His explorations in +the Antarctic Ocean showed a hardihood and determination seldom +surpassed. He brought to light Sandwich Land, settled the position of +Kerguelen's Land, as also the Isle Grande of La Roche, while he made a +survey, long unsurpassed, of the southern shores of Tierra del Fuego. +Such is a rough and rapid sketch of the discoveries made by Cook daring +his three voyages; but what he, with justice, chiefly prided himself on +was the means by which he successfully maintained his crews in perfect +health during his second and third voyages; and it is satisfactory to +know that his successor in the command of the expedition, by following +his system, brought home his ships' companies with few or no sick among +them. [Note 3.] + +As soon as the remains of Captain Cook had been committed to the deep +the taboo which had been placed on the bay by the chief Eappo was +removed, at the request of Captain Clerke, who said that, as the Orono +was buried, the remembrance of what had passed was buried with him. As +soon as it was known that the people might bring their provisions as +usual the ships were surrounded by canoes, and many chiefs came on +board, expressing great sorrow at what had happened, and their +satisfaction at the reconciliation which had taken place. Several +friends, who did not come themselves, sent presents of large hogs and +other provisions. Among the rest came the treacherous old Koah, but he +was refused admittance. + +Captain Clerke was anxious to visit the islands to leeward before the +news of the events which had occurred at Owhyhee could reach them, and a +bad effect be produced. He therefore gave orders to unmoor, and every +preparation was made for quitting the bay. In the evening all the +natives were sent on shore, and Eappo and the friendly Kaireekeea took +an affectionate farewell. As the ships stood out of the bay the natives +collected in great numbers on the shore, and received the last farewells +of the English with every mark of affection and goodwill. + +The first island visited was that of Woahoo, which was found to be high +and picturesque, and thickly populated; the next was the island of +Atooi. A party was here sent on shore to fill the casks with water, +when the natives collected in great numbers, threatening to attack them, +and it was with difficulty that they were enabled to reach the boats and +return on board ship. The next day, however, some chiefs arrived on the +spot; and the day after Mr King, who commanded the party, going on +shore, found the whole distance to the watering-place marked with little +white flags, and the English were not in the slightest degree molested. +While the ships were at this island it was ascertained that some goats +which were left there at the first visit of the English soon increased +in number, and had bidden fair to stock the island, when a quarrel took +place about them, and the animals were killed. A contest between two +tribes or families was still going on about the matter, in which several +people had lost their lives. + +It was now March 12, and preparations were made for quitting the islands +and proceeding on the search for a passage, through Behring's Straits, +into the Atlantic. There was, from the first, very little prospect of +its success. Captain Clerke was sinking rapidly with consumption, and +every one but himself knew that his days were numbered. Still, in spite +of his weakness, he kept up his spirits in a wonderful manner, and +though fully aware that the cold climate he was going to encounter would +prove injurious to his health, this did not prevent him from attempting +to carry out the instructions of his late chief to the utmost of his +power. + +On March 15 the ships left the Sandwich group, and steered for the +harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The ships encountered very +severe weather on approaching the coast of Siberia. The rigging and +decks were so completely coated with ice that it was not without great +difficulty the ropes could be handled, and the crew sensibly felt the +change from the warm temperature to which they had been so long +accustomed. To add to their difficulties, the Resolution sprang a +serious leak, and split her second suit of sails. As the decks below +were deluged with water, the only place in which the sail-makers could +work was in the cabin of their dying captain. At length, on April 28, +the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul was reached. The town was +found to consist of about thirty miserable log huts, and small conical +buildings raised on poles. The commandant was a sergeant, with a few +men under him. The appearance of the expedition at first caused great +consternation among the inhabitants. This arose from the circumstance +that the celebrated Polish exile Beniowski had, a short time before, +made his escape from Bolcheretsk with a couple of vessels and a +considerable number of men. It was supposed that the exploring squadron +was in some way connected with him. Another opinion was that the +strangers were French, at that time enemies of the Russians. +Fortunately, a German, of the name of Port, was at the place, and as Mr +Webber spoke German well, the intercommunication was speedily +established, and as soon as the Russians were convinced that their +visitors were English nothing could exceed their kindness and +hospitality. As provisions were, however, very dear here, Captain +Clerke despatched Captain Gore and Mr King, with Mr Webber and the +German, to visit Major Behm, the Governor of Bolcheretsk, in order to +obtain a supply through him. They travelled partly in boats and canoes, +and partly in sleighs drawn by dogs, and were well wrapped up in skins +to protect them from the cold. + +On their arrival at Bolcheretsk, they were received with the greatest +kindness and hospitality by Major Behm and the officers of the garrison. +These kind-hearted and liberal men would not allow the English to pay +for such stores as the town could produce. Among other things, they +presented the ships' companies with three bags of tobacco, of a +hundredweight each, and loaf-sugar for the officers, while Madame Behm +sent several delicacies to poor Captain Clerke. Major Behm accompanied +the English officers to the ships, and made arrangements that stores +should be sent from Okotsk to meet them on their return, should they +fail to discover the passage of which they were in search. It is worthy +of remark that when the English seamen received the tobacco which had +been sent them from Bolcheretsk, they begged that their own allowance of +grog might be stopped, and that it might be presented to the Russian +garrison, who, they understood, were in want of spirits. Knowing the +value a sailor sets on his grog, the feeling of gratitude which prompted +the proposal will be the better appreciated. The generous Russian +would, however, accept but a very small portion of what was offered. + +As Major Behm was on the point of returning to Saint Petersburg, Captain +Gierke, feeling sure that he was a man of the strictest honour, resolved +to entrust him with a copy of the journal of the voyage, and an account +of all transactions up to the arrival of the ships in the harbour of +Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Mr Bayley and Mr King also sent home an +account of all the astronomical and other scientific observations made +during the voyage. These were duly delivered, within a few months from +the time of their being entrusted to Major Behm. + +It is remarkable that on the arrival of the expedition in the harbour of +Saint Peter and Saint Paul, the whole Russian garrison of the place were +found to be suffering more or less from scurvy, many of the men being in +the last stage of that disease. They were immediately placed under the +care of the English surgeons, and, by a free use of sour-krout and +sweet-wort, they nearly all quickly recovered. Through the exertions of +Major Behm, a supply of rye-flour was furnished to the ships, and a +bullock was sent on board, which was served out to the men on Sunday. +It was the first fresh beef they had tasted since leaving the Cape of +Good Hope, two years and a half before. Twenty head of cattle were +afterwards sent on board, with other supplies, and the English +themselves caught with their nets an abundance of fine fish. + +On June 12 the ships were unmoored for the purpose of putting to sea, +but it was not till the 16th that they were able to get clear of the +bay. The eruption of a neighbouring volcano took place at this time, +which covered the decks with cinders and small stones. From the first +the ships encountered bad weather. The intense cold severely tried the +crews. The men had taken no care of their fur jackets and other warm +clothing, but they had been collected by their officers, and cased up in +casks, to be produced when most required. + +The expedition passed through Behring's Straits on July 5, and having +run along the coast of Asia, stretched across to that of America, with +the intention of exploring it between the latitudes 68 degrees and 69 +degrees. In this attempt, however, the explorers were disappointed, +being stopped, on the 7th, by a large and compact field of ice connected +with the land. They therefore altered their course to the westward, in +the hopes of finding some opening, and thus being able to get round to +the north of the ice. They continued sailing in that direction till the +9th, for nearly forty leagues, without discovering an opening. Still +their dying chief persevered in his efforts till the 27th, although +unable to penetrate farther north than 70 degrees 33 minutes, which was +five leagues short of the point which had been gained the previous year. +In the attempt the Discovery was nearly lost, and received very severe +damage. She became so entangled by several large pieces of ice that her +way was stopped, and immediately dropping bodily to leeward she fell +broadside on to the edge of a considerable mass. At the same time, +there being an open sea to windward, the surf made her strike violently +on it. The mass of ice, however, at length either so far removed, or +broke, as to set the ship at liberty, when another attempt to escape was +made; but, unfortunately, before she gathered sufficient way to be under +command she again fell to leeward on another fragment. The swell now +making it unsafe to lie to windward of the ice, and there being no +prospect of getting clear, the ship was pushed into a small opening, the +sails were furled, and she was made fast with ice-hooks. In this +dangerous position she was seen at noon by her consort, a fresh gale +driving more ice towards her. It is easy to conceive the anxiety felt +on board the Resolution, which was kept in the neighbourhood, firing a +gun every half-hour. At last, towards evening, there was a shift of +wind, and by nine o'clock the Discovery appeared, having, by setting all +sail, forced her way out of the ice. She had, however, lost a +considerable amount of sheathing from the bows, and had become very +leaky from the blows received. + +While in these latitudes several sea-horses were killed, which the +seamen were persuaded, without much difficulty, to eat in preference to +their salt provisions. Two white bears were also killed, which, though +having a somewhat fishy taste, were considered dainties. Finding that +all prospect of carrying the ships through any passage which might exist +to the eastward was utterly hopeless, Captain Gierke announced his +intention of returning to Awatska Bay to repair damages, and thence to +continue the voyage in the direction of Japan. Joy brightened every +countenance as soon as these resolutions were made known. All were +heartily tired of a navigation full of danger, in which the utmost +perseverance had not been repaid with the slightest prospect of success. +Notwithstanding the tedious voyage to be made, and the immense distance +to be run, every one seemed to feel and speak as though they were once +again approaching the shores of Old England. + +There was one, however--the gallant commander of the expedition, Captain +Clerke--who was destined never again to see his native land. On the +17th he was too weak to get out of bed, and therefore gave directions +that all orders should be received from Mr King. On the morning of +August 22 he breathed his last, to the deep regret of all who served +under him. He had spent the whole of his life at sea, from his earliest +boyhood. He had been in several actions, and in one, between the +Bellona and Courageux, having been stationed in the mizzen-top, he was +carried overboard with the mast, but was taken up unhurt. He was a +midshipman in the Dolphin, commanded by Commodore Byron, on his first +voyage round the world, and afterwards served on the American station. +In 1768 he made his second voyage round the world, in the Endeavour, +under Captain Cook, and returned a lieutenant. His third voyage of +circumnavigation was in the Resolution, and on her return, in 1775, he +was promoted to the rank of Master and Commander. When Captain Cook's +third expedition was determined on he was appointed to command under +him. + +On the 23rd the ships again anchored in the harbour of Saint Peter and +Saint Paul. No sooner had they brought up than their old friend the +sergeant came on board, and all were greatly affected when he announced +that he had brought some fruit for their captain. + +The charge of the expedition now devolved on Captain Gore, who took +command of the Resolution, while Captain King was appointed to the +Discovery. Captain Gore immediately sent off an express to Bolcheretsk, +requesting to be supplied with sixteen head of cattle. The stores from +the Discovery being landed, attempts were made to repair the damages she +had received. On stripping off the sheathing, three feet of the third +strake under the wale were found to be stove in, and the timbers within +started. The farther they proceeded in removing the sheathing, the more +they discovered the decayed state of the ship's hull. The chief damage +was repaired with a birch tree, which had been cut down when they were +there before, and was the only one in the neighbourhood large enough for +the purpose; but Captain King gave orders that no more sheathing should +be ripped off, being apprehensive that further decayed planks might be +met with which it would be impossible to replace. This condition of his +ship could not have been a pleasant subject of contemplation to the +commander, when he considered that he had yet more than half the circuit +of the world to make before he could reach home. + +Large quantities of salmon were now caught with the seine, and salted +for sea stores, and the sea-horse blubber was also boiled down for oil, +all the candles having long been expended. + +On Sunday, the 29th, the remains of Captain Gierke were interred with +all the solemnity possible, under a tree, in a spot which the Russian +Papa, or priest of the settlement, said he believed would form the +centre of a new church it was proposed shortly to build. The officers +and men of both ships walked in procession to the grave, attended by the +Russian garrison, while the ships fired minute guns, and the service +being ended the marines fired three volleys. + +The remainder of the time in the harbour was spent in waiting for +stores, in further repairing the ships, in two or three bear-hunting +expeditions, in entertaining the garrison and natives in return for the +hospitality which had been received, and in receiving a visit from the +Acting Governor and other Russian officers. + +On October 9, the ships having cleared the entrance of Awatska Bay, +steered to the southward for the purpose of examining the islands to the +north of Japan, and then proceeding on to Macao. The condition of the +ships' hulls and rigging rendered it dangerous to make any more +prolonged explorations. Even the larger part of this plan it was found +impossible to follow, for, strong westerly winds blowing, they were +driven off the land, and after passing Japan they anchored at Macao. +Here, not without some delay and difficulty, they procured the stores +they required; Captain King having to make an excursion to Canton for +the purpose. He here sold about twenty sea otter and other skins, +belonging chiefly to their deceased commanders, for the sum of eight +hundred dollars. On returning, he found that the larger portion of +those on board had been sold, and had realised not much less than two +thousand pounds. The large profits on the skins, which had been looked +upon as of little value beforehand, had so excited the minds of the men +that two of them made off with a six-oared cutter, for the purpose of +returning to North America; and as they were not overtaken, they +probably very soon perished. + +The reports brought home by the expedition probably set on foot that +trade in furs with the west coast of North America which afterwards +became of considerable importance. In consequence of hearing, at Macao, +of the war which had broken out between England and France, the ships +mounted all their guns; but Captain Gore being informed, at the same +time, that the French had issued orders to their cruisers that the ships +under the command of Captain Cook should be treated as belonging to +neutral or friendly powers, resolved himself to preserve, throughout the +remainder of the voyage, the strictest neutrality. + +The expedition left Macao on January 12, 1780, and on the 20th anchored +in a harbour of Pulo Condore. Here a supply of buffaloes was obtained. +They were large animals, and very wild. Two were kept on board the +Discovery by Captain King, who intended to take them to England. They +soon became perfectly tame, but, unfortunately, one of them suffered a +severe injury, and both were killed. + +On leaving Pulo Condore the ships passed through the Straits of Banca, +in sight of the island of Sumatra. The Resolution brought up off the +island of Cracatoa, in the Straits of Sunda, and filled up her casks +with water, which the Discovery was unable to do, in consequence of +being becalmed. On reaching Cape Town the English were treated with the +same kindness and attention which they had received on their former +visits. Here they obtained confirmation of the intelligence that the +French had given directions to their cruisers not to molest them. +Having taken their stores on board, they sailed out of Table Bay on May +9, and on June 12 passed the equator for the fourth time during their +voyage. + +The ships made the coast of Ireland on August 12, but southerly winds +compelled them to run to the north. On October 4 the ships arrived at +the Nore, after an absence of four years, two months, and twenty-two +days. During that time the Resolution had lost but five men by +sickness, three of whom were in a precarious state of health when +leaving England, while the Discovery did not lose a man. It is +remarkable that during the whole time they were at sea the ships never +lost sight of each other for a day together, except twice; the first +time owing to an accident which happened to the Discovery off the coast +of Owhyhee, and the second to the fogs that were met with at the +entrance of Awatska Bay. A stronger proof cannot be given of the skill +and vigilance of the subaltern officers, to whom the merit of this +entirely belonged. + +The death of Captain Cook was already known in England by means of the +despatches sent home through Major Behm. All that a nation could do was +done to testify respect for his memory. His widow received a pension of +200 pounds a year, and each of his children had 25 pounds a year settled +on them. Other sums were granted to his widow, and medals were struck +to commemorate his achievements, while a coat of arms was granted to his +family. + +Of his six children, three died in their infancy, and the other three +were cut off in their early manhood. The second, Nathaniel, a promising +youth, was lost, when a midshipman, on board the Thunderer, in a +hurricane off Jamaica on October 3, 1780. The youngest, Hugh, was +intended for the ministry, and died at Oxford, in the seventeenth year +of his age. The eldest, James, who was in the Navy, commanded the +Spitfire sloop-of-war. He was drowned, in 1794, at the age of thirty, +when attempting to push off from Poole, during a gale of wind, to rejoin +his ship. + +It is said that the bereaved mother, on receiving tidings of the death +of her last surviving son, destroyed all the letters she had received +from her husband, in the vain hope of banishing recollection of the +past. She survived, however, to the year 1835, when she died, at the +age of ninety-three. + +A handsome piece of plate was presented to Major Behm, in acknowledgment +of the attention and liberality with which he treated the English in +Siberia; while gold medals were offered to the French king for his +generous orders with regard to the ships of the expedition, as also to +the Empress of Russia, as it was in her dominions, and by one of her +officers, that they had been so liberally treated. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. It should be mentioned that Lieutenant Pickersgill was sent +out, in 1776, with directions to explore the coast of Baffin's Bay, and +that in the next year Lieutenant Young was commissioned not only to +examine the western parts of that bay, but to endeavour to find a +passage on that side from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. Both +officers returned without effecting anything. The first was severely +censured for his conduct; but we who know the difficulties he would have +had to encounter may readily excuse him. + +Note 2. Amongst the presents left by Cook at Mangaia was an axe, +roughly fashioned, on the ship's arrival, out of a piece of iron. It is +still treasured in the Island as a relic of his visit. + +Note 3. A promotion of officers necessarily followed the death of +Captain Cook. Captain Clerke, having succeeded to the command of the +expedition, removed to the Resolution. By him Mr Gore was appointed +Captain of the Discovery, and the rest of the lieutenants obtained an +addition of rank in their proper order. + + + +CHAPTER FIVE. + +SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF POLYNESIA. + +In the concluding pages of this work it is proposed to give a brief +sketch of the progress of Christianity and civilisation in the islands +of the Pacific visited by Captain Cook. [Note 1.] + +The accounts brought home by the discoverers of the degraded moral +condition of the islanders, stirred up the hearts of Christians in +England, and when, in 1795, the London Missionary Society was formed, +one of its first proceedings was to send to those distant lands the +Gospel of Christ's salvation. + +They began their labours upon an extensive scale. They purchased a +ship, and sent out twenty-five labourers to commence missions +simultaneously at the Marquesan, Tahitian, and Friendly Islands. + +The following is the account given of the reception of this band of +Christian evangelists:-- + +"On March 7, 1797, the first missionaries from the Duff went on shore, +and were met on the beach by the king, Pomare, and his queen. By them +they were kindly welcomed, as well as by Paitia, an aged chief of the +district. They were conducted to a large, oval-shaped native house, +which has been but recently finished for Captain Bligh, whom they +expected to return. Their dwelling was pleasantly situated on the +western side of the river, near the extremity of Point Venus. The +islanders were delighted to behold foreigners coming to take up their +permanent residence among them, as those they had heretofore seen had +been transient visitors. + +"The inhabitants of Tahiti, having never seen any European females or +children, were filled with amazement and delight when the wives and +children of the missionaries landed. Several times during the first +days of their residence on shore large parties arrived from different +places, in front of the house, requesting that the white women and +children would come to the door and show themselves. The chiefs and +people were not satisfied with giving them the large and commodious +`Fare Beritani' (British house), as they called the one they had built +for Captain Bligh, but readily and cheerfully ceded to Captain Wilson +and the missionaries, in an official and formal manner, the district of +Matavai, in which their habitation was situated. The king and queen, +with other branches of the royal family, and the most influential +persons in the nation, were present; and Haamanemane, an aged chief of +Raiatea, and chief priest of Tahiti, was the principal agent for the +natives on this occasion. + +"Whatever advantages the king or chiefs might expect to derive from this +settlement on the island, it must not be supposed that any desire to +receive moral or religious instruction formed a part. A desire to +possess European property, and to receive the assistance of the +Europeans in the exercise of the mechanical arts or in their wars, was +probably the motive by which the natives were most strongly influenced. + +"Having landed ten missionaries at Tongataboo, in the Friendly Islands, +Captain Wilson visited and surveyed several of the Marquesan Islands, +and left Mr Crook, a missionary, there. He then returned to Tahiti, +and on July 6 the Duff again anchored in Matavai Bay. The health of the +missionaries had not been affected by the climate. The conduct of the +natives had been friendly and respectful, and supplies in abundance had +been furnished during his absence. On August 4, 1797, the Duff finally +sailed from the bay. The missionaries returning from the ship, as well +as those on shore, watched her course, as she slowly receded from their +view, under no ordinary sensations. They now felt that they were cut +off from all but Divine guidance, protection, and support, and had +parted with those by whose counsels and presence they had been assisted +in entering upon their labours, but whom, on earth, they did not expect +to meet again. + +"Their acquaintance with the most useful of the mechanic arts not only +delighted the natives, but raised the missionaries in their estimation, +and led them to desire their friendship. This was strikingly evinced on +several occasions, when they beheld them use their carpenters' tools, +cut with a saw a number of boards out of a tree, which they had never +thought it possible to split into more than two, and make with these +chests and articles of furniture. When they beheld a boat built, +upwards of twenty feet long and six tons burden, they were pleased and +surprised; but when the blacksmith's shop was erected, and the forge and +anvil were first employed on their shores, they were filled with +astonishment. When the heated iron was hammered on the anvil, and the +sparks flew among them, they fancied it was spitting at them, and were +frightened, as they also were with the hissing occasioned by immersing +it in water; yet they were delighted to see the facility with which a +bar of iron was thus converted into hatchets, adzes, fish-spears, +fish-hooks, and other things. Pomare, entering one day when the +blacksmith was employed, after gazing a few minutes at the work, was so +transported at what he saw that he caught up the smith in his arms, and, +unmindful of the dirt and perspiration inseparable from his occupation, +most cordially embraced him, and saluted him, according to the custom of +his country, by touching noses." [Abridged from _Polynesian +Researches_, by the Rev. W. Ellis.] + +It is not to be wondered at that the favourable reports sent home by +these missionaries encouraged those who received them to believe that +almost all difficulties had already been, or were in a fair way of being +speedily overcome, and that these distant islands were, to use the +figurative language of Scripture, "stretching out their hands unto God." +They did not know--it was wisely and mercifully hidden from them--that +a long night of toil had yet to be passed before the dawn of that better +day they longed to see, and for which they prayed and strove. + +"Decisive and extensive as the change has since become," says the writer +just quoted, "it was long before any salutary effects appeared as the +result of their endeavours; and although the scene is now one of +loveliness and quietude, cheerful, yet placid as the smooth waters of +the bay, it has often worn a very different aspect. Here the first +missionaries frequently heard the song accompanying the licentious +areois dance, the deafening noise of the worship, and saw the human +victim carried by for sacrifice. Here, too, they often heard the +startling cry of war, and saw their frightened neighbours fly before the +murderous spear and plundering hand of lawless power. The invader's +torch reduced the native hut to ashes, while the lurid flame seared the +green foliage of the trees, and clouds of smoke, rising up among their +groves, darkened, for a time, surrounding objects. On such occasions, +and they were not infrequent, the contrast between the country and the +inhabitants must have been most affecting; appearing as if the demons of +darkness had lighted up infernal fires in the bowers of paradise." + +These representations probably did not reach England until after the +missionaries had been some time in the islands, and meanwhile the ship +Duff was sent out a second time, with a strong reinforcement of thirty +additional labourers. + +"God, however, for a time, appeared to disappoint all their +expectations; for this hitherto favoured ship was captured by the +Buonaparte privateer. The property was entirely lost, and the +missionaries, with their families, after suffering many difficulties and +privations, returned to England." In addition to this trial "the +Marquesan mission failed. At Tongataboo some of the missionaries lost +their lives, and that mission was, in consequence of a series of +disastrous circumstances, abandoned." More discouragements were in +store, for "those settled at Tahiti, under such favourable auspices, +had, from fear of their lives, nearly all fled to New South Wales; so +that, after a few years, very little remained of this splendid embassy +of Christian mercy to the South Seas. A few of the brethren, however, +never abandoned their posts; and others returned after having been a +short time absent." + +In addition to all other disappointments, these returned missionaries +and their brethren appeared to be labouring in vain and spending their +strength for nought. "For sixteen years," we are told, "notwithstanding +the untiring zeal, the incessant journeys, the faithful exhortations of +these devoted men, no spirit of interest or inquiry appeared, no +solitary instance of conversion took place; the wars of the natives +continued frequent and desolating, and their idolatries abominable and +cruel. The heavens above seemed to be as brass, and the earth as iron. + +"At length," continues the Christian historian, "two native servants, +formerly in the families of the missionaries, had received, unknown to +them, some favourable impressions, and had united together for prayer. +To these many other persons had attached themselves, so that, on the +return of the missionaries to Tahiti, at the termination of the war, +they found a great number of `pure Atua,' or `praying people'; and they +had little else to do but to help forward the work which God had so +unexpectedly and wonderfully commenced. + +"Another circumstance, demanding special observation in reference to the +commencement of the great work at Tahiti, is that, discouraged by so +many years of fruitless toil, the directors of the Society entertained +serious thoughts of abandoning the mission altogether. A few +undeviating friends of that field of missionary enterprise, however, +opposed the measure." Their persuasions prevailed, and after special +and earnest prayer to God, instead of a recall, "letters of +encouragement were written to the missionaries. And while the vessel +which carried these letters was on her passage to Tahiti, another ship +was conveying to England not only the news of the entire overthrow of +idolatry, but also the rejected idols of the people. Thus was fulfilled +the gracious promise, `Before they call I will answer, and while they +are yet speaking I will hear.'" [Williams's _Missionary Enterprises in +the South Sea Islands_.] + +Among the converts of Tahiti was the king, Pomare, who, having been +severely tried by the rebellion of some part of his subjects, became +deeply impressed with the insufficiency of his idol gods to help him, +and, after having recalled the banished missionaries, listened to their +instructions, and embraced the faith of Christianity. His example being +followed by a majority of his people the idols were renounced, as +already mentioned; and, as soon as he was firmly re-established on his +throne, he built a Christian church, which was opened in the year 1819; +and the first baptism of a native Tahitian was administered within its +walls, in the presence of upwards of four thousand spectators, the king +himself being the subject of the rite. + +Thus inaugurating a new era in his reign, Pomare introduced a code of +useful laws, and brought about many much-needed reforms in his kingdom. +He not only proved himself a warm friend of the missionaries, but gave +them valuable assistance in the important work of translating the +Scriptures into the Tahitian tongue--a fact which proves Pomare to have +been a man of no ordinary natural abilities. He did not live long +enough, however, to see the completion of this design, but, dying in +1821, he left it to his daughter, who succeeded him in his sovereignty, +taking her father's name Pomare. + +Among the laws passed in Tahiti at this time was one prohibiting the +importation and sale of ardent spirits, which had been so great a bane +to the people; and the law was found to be beneficial to the prosperity +and moral character of the country, though the foreign traders, who had +made a large profit by its importation, were enraged when this source of +gain was cut off. + +In 1835 the translation of the Bible was completed, and its publication +was attended and followed by happy accompaniments and results. At this +time the number of natives in communion with the Christian churches +throughout the island numbered over two thousand; and among the +candidates for Church fellowship were the queen herself, her husband, +and her mother. + +And now arose a dark cloud which, for a time, brought great distress +upon the faithful followers of Christ in Tahiti, and was permitted to +try their constancy, while, at the same time, the freedom, and liberty, +and prosperity of the island were grievously threatened. It may be +stated, in few words, that Louis Philippe, at that time King of the +French, had set his eyes on Tahiti, and had introduced his agents into +the country that an excuse might be found for taking possession of the +island. First, the consuls insisted that, as the law prohibiting the +introduction of liquor interfered with trade, it should be rescinded. +This was firmly refused. Then, two French Roman Catholic priests were +landed, but were ordered by the queen to quit the country. They +complied; but one shortly returned with a companion, and the French +admiral, appearing directly afterwards, insisted, with his guns bearing +on the town, that they should be allowed to remain, and demanded 400 +pounds for the injury they had been supposed to suffer when compelled to +quit the island. + +French ships continued to be sent, at frequent intervals, and French +troops were landed; the queen fled to a neighbouring island; the people +fought bravely, but were defeated; the mission-houses and stations were +destroyed; the missionaries were driven out of the country, and Mr +Pritchard, who had been a missionary, and was now British consul, was +imprisoned and otherwise ill-treated. + +The Protestant missionary societies throughout Europe and America were +indignant at this conduct of a civilised nation. In consequence of the +representations of England, France desisted from her attacks on the +other islands, but Tahiti fell into her power in 1846. The French, +however, could not turn the people from the simple faith they had +learned from the English missionaries. They chose ministers from their +own people, and continued to meet and worship God with the simple forms +to which they had been accustomed, and it is a remarkable fact that +Romanism, notwithstanding its gorgeous ceremonies and corrupt practices, +did not captivate them. + +One only of their beloved missionaries was allowed to remain, the Rev. +William Howe, as chaplain to the British consul, and who was ever ready +to give the native pastors the benefit of his advice and assistance, +though opposed by the Romish bishop and the priests. At length, through +his earnest representations to the French Protestant missionary +societies, an appeal was made to the Emperor Napoleon, who permitted +French Protestant missionaries to go out. They were cordially received +by Mr Howe and the native preachers, and the greater part of the Romish +priests were subsequently withdrawn. + +In the words of a recent report of the British and Foreign Bible +Society, [that of 18 8] "The Bible still continues to supply the +inhabitants of the Tahitian group of islands with a safe guide amidst +all the errors to which they are exposed, and a sure ground of hope in +the prospect of eternity. The sale and distribution of the Scriptures +progresses steadily, and the strong attachment of the people to the +truths of the Gospel remains unabated, and forms a security against the +seductions of Popery which it is not easy to over-estimate. Games, and +sports, and feasts are all alike tried to seduce the natives from their +allegiance to Him whom they have learnt to love and to serve; and +though, through the weakness of the flesh, some are attracted and drawn +aside, yet, for the most part, they soon become convinced of the +emptiness and folly of these things, and return to the sound and +wholesome food which they had been tempted to forsake." + +After leaving Tahiti, the first place at which Captain Cook touched was +the lovely and fertile island of Huaheine. This became the refuge of +the first party of missionaries when, in 1808, they were driven from +Tahiti; and it was afterwards visited by John Williams, Ellis, and +others, accompanied by some chiefs from Eimeo, who purposed forming a +mission there. As this place became, in a certain degree, the centre of +operations, that particular missionary enterprise in the Society Islands +is generally known as the Huaheine Mission. + +While Mr Williams was residing at Huaheine, Tamatoa, the King of +Raiatea, who had, while visiting Eimeo and Tahiti, learned something of +the principles of Christianity, arrived with several chiefs, entreating +that missionaries might be sent to instruct their people in the truth. +Messrs. Williams and Threlkeld promptly responded to the call, and +accompanied the king back to Raiatea. The population of the island was +at that time only thirteen hundred, though the island is the largest of +the group, and, from its reputed sanctity, and from being the centre and +headquarters of all the idolatries and abominations of the neighbouring +islands, its chiefs exercised great authority over them. + +Tamatoa, instructed by the Holy Spirit, and aided by others who had +learnt something of the truths of Christianity, had for some time been +labouring among his fellow-islanders. He had himself been converted by +what might well be considered a providential circumstance. Two years +before, a small vessel, having on board the king, Pomare, Mr Wilson, +the missionary, and several Tahitians, had been driven by a storm from +her anchorage at Eimeo down to Raiatea. Here they were hospitably +received, and continued three months, the whole of which time was +employed by Mr Wilson and the king in preaching the Gospel to the +inhabitants. The chief, Tamatoa, was among their principal converts. + +After their teachers had departed, Tamatoa and his fellow-inquirers felt +an earnest desire to learn more of the truth. They built a place of +worship, met together for mutual instruction, kept holy the Sabbath, and +put away their idols and heathen practices. Several times the heathens +laid plots to destroy them, but were each time signally foiled in their +wicked plans. + +At length, Tamatoa paid that memorable visit to Huaheine which resulted +in Messrs. Williams and Threlkeld taking up their abode at Raiatea. +Having collected the hitherto scattered inhabitants into villages, he +built a substantial mission-house as a model, which was readily +imitated. Places of worship and schoolhouses were also built; and +though many years elapsed before the abominations of heathenism were +eradicated, the great mass of the people became not only well educated +and moral, but earnest and enlightened Christians. The satisfactory +progress made by the inhabitants of the islands where Mr Williams +resided was owing, humanly speaking, to the wonderful rapidity with +which he had acquired their language, and was able to preach to them, in +it, the Gospel of Jesus Christ. + +Soon after the mission at Huaheine was established Mr Ellis set up a +printing-press, from which quickly issued the Gospel by Luke, eight +hundred copies of which were sent to Raiatea. Small school-books were +also printed in the native language. The desire for instruction became +general wherever missionary stations were established. Not only the +children, but adults became scholars. During the hours of instruction +other engagements were suspended, and the various scenes of busy +occupation throughout the settlements forsaken. + +Such was the picture to be seen at that time in several islands of the +Society group. Borabora, or Bolabola, whose inhabitants in Cook's time +had been the fiercest warriors of the neighbouring islands, yielded to +the benign influence of the Gospel. The history of the last island +visited by the great navigator before he left the eastern side of the +Pacific for New Zealand, called by him Oheteroa, but known generally as +Rurutu, is of great interest. It is situated about two hundred and +fifty miles to the south of Raiatea. A destructive pestilence having +visited the island, two chiefs, one named Auura, built two canoes, and, +with as many of the people as they could convey, left their native +shores in search of a happier land, and to escape from their infuriated +deities. + +After touching at Tubuai, they were cast on the reef surrounding Maurua. +Here, instead of being murdered, as might once have been their fate, +the starving voyagers were received with all kindness and charity. How +was this? Through the agency of native teachers the people had learned +the blessed truths of the Gospel, and were trying to obey its precepts. +Auura and his companions, hearing that the white men, who had brought to +their seas that beautiful religion the practical fruits of which they +had just experienced, were living in the islands the summits of whose +mountains they could see, set sail once more, with the desire of hearing +from their own lips a fuller account of the religion they taught. They +missed Borabora, but reached Raiatea. Here they remained rather more +than three months. When they were landed they were ignorant savages, +wild in appearance and habits. Before they left Auura could read the +Gospel of Matthew, had learned the greater part of the catechism drawn +up for the natives, and could write correctly. Several others could do +nearly as well, though previously ignorant that such an art as writing +existed. + +But these earnest men were not content to go back to their people alone; +they entreated that some missionaries would accompany them. Two native +deacons at once offered themselves, and were accepted. Auura's great +fear was that many of his countrymen would have been carried off by the +pestilence before the glad tidings of salvation could be preached to +them. At that time a vessel belonging to a friend of the mission +touched at Eaiatea, and the captain agreed to carry Auura and his +companions, with the missionaries, to their home. + +Within fifteen months after this, Rurutu was visited by Dr Tyerman and +G. Bennet, Esquire, who had been sent out by the directors of the London +Missionary Society to visit their stations in the Pacific. When they +reached it they were not certain what island it was, but were greatly +surprised at seeing several neat-looking white houses at the head of the +bay. A pier, a quarter of a mile in length, had been constructed of +vast coral blocks, affording a convenient landing-place. Besides the +two comfortable mission-houses, there was a large place of worship, +eighty feet by thirty-six, wattled, plastered, well floored and seated, +built within a twelvemonth, under the direction of the two native +missionaries, who performed much of the work with their own hands. Many +of the chiefs were dressed in European clothing, and all were attired in +the most decent and becoming manner. Not a vestige of idolatry was to +be seen, not an idol was to be found in the island. + +Mr Turnbull, in his account of a voyage he made to the Pacific in 1804, +describes the way in which the then savage inhabitants of Raiatea +attempted to cut off the ship in which he sailed. See the contrast in +the conduct of the people of Rurutu shortly after they had embraced +Christianity. Captain Chase commanded the Falcon, an American trader, +which was cast away on a reef off their island. He says; "The natives +have given us all the assistance in their power from the time the ship +struck to the present moment. The first day, while landing the things +from the ship, they were put into the hands of the natives, and carried +up to the native mission-house, a distance of half a mile, and not a +single article of clothing was taken from any man belonging to the ship, +though they had it in their power to have plundered us of everything +that was landed. Since I have lived on shore, I, and my officers and +people, have received the kindest treatment from the natives that can be +imagined, for which I shall ever be thankful." + +Aitutaki, one of the Hervey group, was another of the islands discovered +by Captain Cook. It contained about two thousand inhabitants, described +as especially wild and savage. Mr Williams heard of it from Auura, and +on a voyage to Sydney, which he was compelled to take on account of the +health of his wife, he landed on its shores two native missionaries, +Papeiha and Vahapata. On first landing they were led by the people to +the morai and given up to the gods; but their lives were spared and they +were left at liberty. Wars broke out in the island, and all their +property was stolen; but they persevered in preaching the Gospel, and, +by degrees, gained converts. The king, Tamatoa, became a Christian; but +his old grandfather refused to give up his gods. While holding a high +festival in their honour, a beloved daughter was taken ill. In vain he +besought his gods to restore her to health; she died. In his rage, he +ordered his son to set fire to his morai, and to destroy it with his +idols; two others caught fire near it, and the son was proceeding to +burn others, when the people dragged him away, expecting to see him +struck down by the vengeance of the outraged gods. As no evil +consequences followed, the idolaters began to call in question the power +of their deities. + +Shortly after a vessel arrived from Raiatea, bringing another +missionary, with many books, and several pigs and goats, which Papeiha +and his companion had promised the people. This raised the missionaries +in their estimation, and they with one accord threw away all their +idols, and resolved to listen to the teaching of the Gospel. On his +return from Sydney, Mr Williams, calling at Aitutaki, found that all +the inhabitants had nominally embraced Christianity, while a chapel, two +hundred feet long, had been built for the worship of the true God. They +have now the entire Scriptures in their own language, and their desire +after and reverence for the Word of God are very remarkable. + +The description given of the inhabitants of Aitutaki applies equally to +numerous other islands of the Pacific, which have been for some time +under missionary instruction, provided there are no ports where the +crews of foreign vessels remain any length of time, and set a bad +example to the surrounding population. + +Rarotonga, one of the Hervey group, about seven hundred miles south of +Tahiti, and discovered by Williams, in 1823, when the people were in the +most savage condition, is now the chief missionary station in the +Pacific. In 1839 a missionary college was established, the buildings +consisting of a number of separate neat stone cottages, in which the +married students and their wives could reside, a lecture-room, and a +room for female classes. Up to 1844 thirty-three native missionaries, +male and female, had received instruction, and six of the young men had +gone forth as pioneers to Western Polynesia. Up to 1860 two hundred +students had been admitted, a considerable number of whom were married, +and the institution had been greatly enlarged in many respects. The +course of instruction embraces theology, Church history, Biblical +exposition, biography, geography, grammar, and composition of essays and +sermons. The students are also taught several mechanical arts, and for +two or three hours every day are employed in the workshop. At the +printing establishment on the island a variety of works have been +translated, printed, and bound. In three months, ending March 1859, +_Bogue's Lectures_, the _Pilgrim's Progress_, twelve hundred copies of +_Voyages of Mission Ship_, hymn-books, Scripture lessons, and several +other works were turned out of hand. The press-work of these various +books, comprising nearly three hundred thousand sheets a year, had all +been performed by young men, the first-fruits of missionary labours +before their fathers had any written language. + +We must now describe the present state of other solitary islands and +groups discovered by Captain Cook. In the course of his second voyage +(1774) he fell in with a low, solitary island, which, from the ferocity +of the inhabitants, he called Savage Island. The inhabitants, numbering +between three and four thousand, for very many years remained in the +condition in which Cook found them. The first attempt to leave native +missionaries was made by the Rev. John Williams, in 1830. But the +natives refused to receive them. In 1840, and in 1842, other attempts +were made. In the latter year the Rev. A. Buzacott nearly lost his +life. + +Still these visits had a good effect on the younger part of the +population, who desired to see more of the strangers. Several found +their way to Samoa, where they embraced the Gospel, and two of them, +after a course of instruction at the training college in Samoa, were +found well fitted to return, and to spread its glad tidings among their +benighted countrymen. They were accordingly conveyed to Savage Island +in the John Williams, missionary ship, but were received with a good +deal of suspicion by the natives, and only one remained. He narrowly +escaped being put to death, but undauntedly persevered, and, by degrees, +gathered converts around him. When visited in 1852 by the Rev. A.W. +Murray, he had upwards of two hundred sincere believers gathered into a +church, and many heathen practices had been abandoned by others. + +In 1861 the John Williams conveyed Mr and Mrs Lawes to Savage Island. +They were the first European missionaries appointed to labour there. +Hundreds of men and women, all well clothed, were assembled on the shore +to receive them. Outwardly, not a vestige of heathenism remained among +them. There were five good chapels in the island, one of which held +eleven hundred, but it was too small for the congregation. Prayer +meetings were frequently held, at which all the people in the district +attended. On each occasion when they were held by Mr Lawes not less +than eight hundred were present. The whole of the inhabitants are now +professing Christians, and a very large proportion are earnest and +enlightened believers. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +The reader will call to mind the incidents of Captain Cook's visit to +the Tonga, or Friendly group, the high state of cultivation in which he +found the islands, the apparently friendly reception he met with from +the chiefs, and their treacherous purposes to cut off the ship, as they +shortly afterwards did a merchantman which visited their shores, +murdering most of the crew. + +In consequence of Captain Cook's too favourable report, a number of +missionaries were sent out by the London Missionary Society, in the ship +Duff, already mentioned, under the command of Captain Wilson. These +pious men landed on the islands in 1797, but they made no apparent +progress, and war breaking out, three of them lost their lives, and the +rest escaped to Sydney. This was in the year 1800. + +In 1802, Mr Lawry, of the Wesleyan Missionary Society, commenced a +mission at Nukualofa, in Tongataboo. Though compelled for a time to +abandon it, he returned in 1826, and, through his instrumentality, +Tubou, the king, and many of his chiefs and people embraced +Christianity. It is worthy of remark that, just before this time, the +London Missionary Society had commenced a mission on the island; but +they yielded up the field to the Wesleyans, while the latter retired +from Samoa, where they had commenced a mission. The Wesleyans have +since then laboured exclusively, and with most encouraging success, in +the Friendly and Fiji Islands and New Zealand, leaving to the London +Missionary Society the wide scope of the Pacific. + +In 1827 the Revs. Nathaniel Turner and William Cross took up their +residence at Nukualofa. At that time Josiah Tubou was king in Tonga. +Taufaahau, now King George, was king only of Haabai, and Feenau was king +of Vavou. The first became a Christian, as did his queen, and was +baptised on January 10, 1830. He died in 1845, Feenau having previously +died; thus George became king in chief, and reigns over the three +groups, Tonga, Haabai, and Vavou, or the whole of the Friendly Islands. +The labours of the two zealous missionaries just mentioned were largely +blessed, and when Tubou was baptised the congregation amounted to six +hundred professing Christians. + +King Josiah's reign was not altogether free from difficulties. The +heathen party was strong, and took up arms against him, being supported +by some French Roman Catholic priests who had settled in the islands. +They tried to embroil him, as they had already done Queen Pomare, of +Tahiti, with their own government, but were unsuccessful, and with the +assistance of King George the rebels were put down. + +King George had himself become a Christian and a preacher, and +contributed greatly to the spread of the Gospel among his countrymen. +He is thus described by Mr Lawry, after he had become sovereign of the +whole group; it was in the large chapel of Nukualofa: "The king was in +the pulpit. The attention of his audience was riveted while he +expounded the words of our Lord, `I am come that ye might have life.' +The king is a tall, graceful person; in the pulpit he was dressed in a +black coat, and his manner was solemn and earnest. He held in his hand +a small bound manuscript book, in which his sermon was written, but he +seldom looked at it. His action was dignified, his delivery fluent and +graceful, and not without majesty. His hearers hung upon his lips with +earnest and increasing interest. Much of what he said was put +interrogatively, a mode of address which is very acceptable among the +Tongans. It was affecting to see this dignified man stretching out his +hand over his people, and to observe that one of his little fingers had +been cut off: this was formerly done as an offering to a heathen god, a +custom among his people before they became Christians. But while he +bore this mark of Pagan origin, he clearly showed that to him was grace +given to preach among the Gentiles the unsearchable riches of Christ." + +The Tongans have been especially blessed in having had several +missionaries of high character, abilities, and zeal sent among them. +There are schools sufficient for the wants of the whole population, +under native teachers, and overlooked by the missionaries, whose duties +are somewhat arduous. There is a training institution at Nukualofa, for +missionaries, and for masters and mistresses of schools. There are also +schools, or colleges, for the upper classes; indeed, many of the wants +of a civilised and intelligent community are supplied in the Tonga +Islands. The population of the whole group is supposed to amount to +between thirty and forty thousand. + +The islands of Western Polynesia--New Hebrides, Loyalty, and Britannia-- +were little-known, or, at all events, little thought of, till the year +1839, when they were brought into melancholy prominence by the +distressing tragedy which occurred in one of them, the island of +Erromanga. + +The Rev. John Williams, after his return from England in the previous +year, sailed in the Camden missionary vessel, resolved to convey the +Gospel message to the inhabitants of these remote islands, hitherto sunk +in the deepest heathen darkness. It is not too much to say that there +was no species of wickedness practised by heathens in any part of the +world which could not have found its parallel in those countries. +Barbarous rites, nameless abominations, and cannibalism in its most +fearful forms characterised the whole population. Mr Williams was +accompanied by several European, and a considerable number of native +missionaries, who were to be landed as opportunities might offer, to +preach the Gospel. + +Having landed missionaries at the island of Tanna and elsewhere, with +every prospect of success, the Camden proceeded to Erromanga, off which +island she arrived on November 20, 1839. Here Mr Williams, Mr Harris, +Mr Cunningham, and Captain Morgan landed, and while the two former were +at a distance from their companions, the natives attacked and killed +them. The murder had been provoked, not by the crew of the Camden, but +by that of some other ship, who had ruthlessly shot down several of the +natives and carried off their provisions. Thus the innocent suffered +for the guilty, and while the life of one eminent missionary was +sacrificed, that of another was cut off at the commencement of what +might have been a course of similar usefulness. Let it be added, as an +interesting fact, that the murderer of John Williams was afterwards +converted to God, and lived as a sincere and consistent Christian. + +Notwithstanding the sad commencement of this missionary enterprise, it +was resolved to pursue it with vigour. At Aneiteum, the first island of +the New Hebrides visited by the missionary ship in 1841, two Samoan +missionaries were landed. These devoted men had much to endure, and it +was not till after years of toil that they saw any really satisfactory +results from their labours. By degrees many came to seek instruction, +some of whom abandoned their heathen practices; and subsequently other +native teachers were introduced; but when, in 1848, the Rev. J. Geddie +arrived at Aneiteum, he still found the great mass of the people +fearfully degraded, and addicted to the most horrible cruelties. Soon +after his arrival eight women were strangled--one, an interesting young +woman whose husband he had been attending till he died; he attempted to +save her, and was very nearly clubbed to death by her relatives in +consequence. + +A wonderful change is now evident. In 1858 there were sixty villages on +the island, each of which had a school-house or a chapel, with a +resident teacher. Nearly the whole of the New Testament, and some books +of the Old, had been translated, and a large number of these lately +degraded heathens could both read and write. + +Fatuna is a small island, containing about a thousand inhabitants. Here +Williams touched just before his death; but no teachers were left there. +A couple of years afterwards, however, two Samoan evangelists, Samuela +and Apela, were landed, the former accompanied by his wife. They +laboured for four years with some success, when a severe epidemic +breaking out among the inhabitants they were accused of being its cause, +and were killed and eaten. Samuela's faithful wife was offered her life +if she would become one of the wives of the chief. She replied, "I came +to teach you what is right, not to sin amongst you." No sooner had she +uttered the words than she fell beneath the club of a savage. +Notwithstanding this tragedy, missionaries from the lately heathen +Aneiteum have gone to Fatuna, and many of the savages have been +converted. + +At Tanna, supposed to possess fifteen thousand inhabitants, Mr Williams +left three missionaries the day before he was murdered at Erromanga; but +two of them soon died, the climate being more injurious to the natives +of Eastern Polynesia than to Europeans. In 1842 Messrs. Turner and +Nisbet were sent to occupy the island, but were driven away by the +savages, and sought shelter in Samoa. Native teachers from Aneiteum, +however, took their places, and met with some success; and in 1858 +several European missionaries landed on the island; and the larger part +of the people have come to the truth. + +With Erromanga the name of Williams will always be associated. After +his death, native evangelists from Samoa and Rarotonga landed on its +shores, but died, or were compelled to leave, from the effects of the +climate. In 1857 the Rev. G.N. Gordon, and his wife, took up their +residence on the island. They laboured on with considerable success, +Oviladon, the chief of the district, being among the first-fruits of +their toils. The greater number of the inhabitants of his district also +became Christians. + +An epidemic, however, broke out in 1860, and the heathen inhabitants of +another district, believing that it was caused by the Christians, +attacked the settlement, and killed Mr and Mrs Gordon. The day after +they were buried, amidst the tears and lamentations of the people; the +native teacher, who had escaped, stood beside the grave, and delivered +an address which powerfully affected the bystanders. + +In the large island of Fate or Vate, Christian teachers have been landed +at different times, but some have been killed and eaten, and others have +died of disease. In 1858, however, three teachers, with their wives, +were landed under encouraging circumstances. From Nina, a small island +near Tanna, several of the natives, hearing of the wonderful things +taking place on the latter island, proceeded thither to procure a +teacher. In consequence of their application, in 1858, the John +Williams took them two from Aneiteum, who are now labouring successfully +among them. + +The Loyalty group must be briefly noticed. Native teachers were landed +in 1841, and after they had induced many natives to abandon heathenism, +Messrs. Jones and Creagh arrived in the island in 1854. Their labours +have been blessed; the Gospels and other parts of the Scriptures have +been printed in the Nengonese language, and upwards of three thousand of +the inhabitants are under Christian instruction, although a large number +of the natives still follow their heathen customs. + +The mission in Lifu was not commenced till 1843, when native evangelists +were landed, and in 1858 two European missionaries arrived to take +charge of the work. The inhabitants amount to about ten thousand, and +of these very few, if any, now remain heathens, though it is to be +feared that the great mass of the converts can only be looked on as +nominal Christians. + +The small Britannia group, near New Caledonia, has been occupied by +teachers from Rarotonga and Mars since 1837, but Roman Catholic priests +have arrived on the principal island, sent, they say, by the French +governor of New Caledonia. They have built a capital, called Porte de +France, but it is a penal colony, and free emigrants have not been +attracted to its shores. + +The last islands visited by Captain Cook were those to which he gave the +name of the Sandwich Islands, and which now form the small but +independent kingdom of Hawaii, having a capital called Honolulu, with a +population of eleven thousand, not less than a thousand of whom are +white foreigners. With its well-paved, lighted streets, its king's +palace, its houses of parliament, its cathedral church, its numerous +hotels, its police, and other accompaniments of high civilisation, it is +difficult to imagine that a hundred years ago this was the home of +tattooed savages. To Englishmen in advanced years, indeed, the murder +of Captain Cook at Owhyhee seems like an event that happened in their +own childhood. And, in truth, not fifty years ago the natives of Hawaii +were ignorant and idolatrous heathens, while it is but as yesterday that +a refined, elegant, and well-educated lady, the queen of those islands, +was visiting England. + +When Cook was killed Kalampupua was king. He was succeeded by his +nephew, Kamehamea the First, who made himself sovereign of the entire +group. When visited by Captain Vancouver, in 1793, it is said that he +requested that Christian missionaries might be sent to him. Whether +Captain Vancouver delivered the message to the English Government or +not, no attention was paid to it. Captain Vancouver, however, returned +the next year with some horned cattle and sheep, which he presented to +the king, obtaining a promise that none should be killed for the space +of ten years. This promise was faithfully kept; but so rapidly did the +animals increase that they became exceedingly troublesome to the natives +by injuring their fences and taro plantations. They were accordingly +driven into the mountains, where they now form a source of considerable +wealth to the nation. + +Kamehamea was about to abolish the taboo system when he died in 1819, +and was succeeded by his son Liholiho, who took the name of Kamehamea +the Second. He carried into effect his father's intention, and also +destroyed his temples and gods. + +In that very year the American Board of Missions resolved to send to the +Sandwich Islands an efficient band of missionaries with three native +youths who had been educated in the States. Joyful and totally +unexpected news awaited them on their arrival. Idolatry was overthrown, +and the king and most of his chiefs were ready to afford them protection +and support. They had, however, an arduous task before them in their +efforts to impart instruction to a population numbering at least one +hundred thousand, dwelling in eight islands, with a superficial area of +seven thousand square miles; Owhyhee alone, now written Hawaii, being +four hundred and fifteen miles in circumference. + +In 1824 there were fifty native teachers and two thousand scholars, and +so rapidly did education advance, that in 1831 there were eleven hundred +schools, in which fully seventeen hundred scholars had obtained the +branches of a common education, and were able to read, write, and sum up +simple accounts. The prime minister, seven leading chiefs, and the +regent were members of the Christian Church; and a very decided change +was manifest in the general population. + +Within a few years the language was reduced to a written form, and two +printing-presses were at work at Honolulu. A large edition of the +Gospels in the Hawaii language, printed in the United States, was in +circulation and there were no less than nine hundred schools and +forty-five thousand scholars. In 1853, after a great awakening, there +were above twenty-two thousand church members, and there were chapels at +all the stations. One at Lahaina could hold three thousand persons. + +In 1853 the mission of the American Board was dissolved, their object +having been fully realised in Christianising the people, planting +churches, and making them self-supporting. Kamehamea the Third, the +brother and successor of the king, who died in England, reigned well and +wisely till 1854. On his death, Prince Alexander Liholiho, a +well-educated and religiously disposed young man, became king. His wife +is the Queen Emma who once visited England. They lost their only son in +1862. This so affected the king that he never recovered from the shock. + +He was succeeded by his brother who reigned over the kingdom for some +years, under the title of Kamehamea the Fifth. His uncle had +established a too democratic constitution; he has given the people one +more suited to their ideas and the state of the country. The chamber of +nobles and that of the representatives of the people are convoked every +two years. It is their duty to make the laws and to vote supplies. +Several foreigners are employed in the government, and the foreign +population of English, Americans, French, and Germans is increasing +rapidly. + +The Hawaiians own a considerable number of vessels, which trade to +China, California, British Columbia, and other parts of the Pacific. +The national flag is composed of coloured stripes with the Union-Jack of +old England quartered in the corner. The independence of the island +kingdom is guaranteed by England, France, and America, and it will +probably continue, as it is at present, in advance of all the other +states which may arise in the Pacific. With these signs of prosperity, +it is no wonder that Romish priests are doing all in their power to +spread their tenets through the Sandwich Islands. But the Bible and a +free press will, it is devoutly to be hoped, triumph. + +Among other publications constantly issuing from the Hawaiian press are +several newspapers, both in English and the native language, which have +a wide circulation. That there is a steady increase in the commerce of +the country is shown by the exports of sugar, coffee, and other produce, +while several manufactures have been introduced to give employment +especially to the women. The port of Honolulu has long been the chief +resort of whale ships in the Pacific, and now many others, trading +between the coasts of America and Asia, call there for supplies. + +Other islands and shores visited by Cook remain in much the same +condition as in his day. The sorrowful history of the attempt to convey +the Gospel to the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego, by Captain Allan +Gardiner, is too well-known to require further mention. Java has been +restored to its original masters, the Dutch; and the Cape of Good Hope +is now a British colony. The great southern land of which Cook went in +search has been found to exist, though its approach is guarded by +immense barriers of ice; and the great problem of a north-west passage +has been solved by the sacrifice of some of England's bravest sons. + +Not much need be added in the closing paragraphs of this volume. In +following the interesting narrative of the voyages of the eminent +discoverer whose name is a household word in English biography, the +reader, while he sees some things to regret, will award to him a +well-deserved tribute of admiration for his courage and skill, his +perseverance and enterprising spirit. One thing was set before him, and +that one thing he did. His main object was scientific; his first voyage +was undertaken to observe the transit of the planet Venus, the Royal +Society having represented that important service would be rendered to +the interests of astronomical science by the appointment of properly +qualified individuals to observe that phenomenon. The second was in +search of a southern continent, which, at that time, was a favourite +object of geographical speculation. The third and last was to endeavour +to find a passage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean. These +objects were praiseworthy, yet they were not the highest aims of the +truest and purest ambition. To be a martyr for science was earthly +glory; but to be a willing martyr for God is glory, honour, immortality, +and eternal life. + +The discoveries made by Captain Cook were barren of any results beyond +those which are necessarily doomed to perish when the world and all that +is in it shall be dissolved, until God was pleased, in His own good +time, and by the influence of His gracious Spirit operating on the minds +of His servants, to make them show forth His praise. Then was made +manifest His almighty power, His infinite wisdom, and His amazing love, +in the triumphs of the Gospel of the Lord Jesus Christ in the very +strongholds of Satan and sin; conveying to His waiting people the +assurance also that He had listened, and still listens, to their +aspirations and prayers. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand, having become parts of +the British empire, and colonised by British subjects, are not included +in this sketch; their history belongs to that of the mother country. +The wonderful progress they have made is due to the influx of European +settlers, not to the elevation of the native races. + +THE END. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Captain Cook, by W.H.G. 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